SERIES OF ADVENTURES, &c. IN LETTERS TO A LADY. d.A SERIES OF ADVENTURES IN THE COUR SE OF A VOYAGE UP THE RED-SEA, ON THE COASTS OF ARABIA AND EGYPT; AND OF A ROUTE through the Defartsof THEBAIS, HITHERTO UNKNOWN TO THE EUROPEAN TRAVELLER, IN THE YEAR M.DCC.LXXVIL IN LETTERS TO A LADY. BY EYLES IRWIN, ESQ^ IN THE SERVICE OF THE HONBle. THE EAST-INDIA COMPANY. ILLUSTRATED WITH MAPS AND CUTS. INFANDUM, REGINA, JUBES RENOVARE DOLOREM. Virgil. LONDON: PRINTED FOR J. DODSLEY, PALL-MALL. M.DCC.LXXX. TO THE HONOURABLE Jl'l^^ THE EAST INDIA COMPANY, THIS WORK, CONTAINING THE PARTICULARS OF A JOURNEY UNDERTAKEN ON THEIR SERVICE, IS,. WITH GREAT DEFERENCE, INSCRIBED, BY THEIR MOST FAITHFUL AND MUCH OBLIGED SERVANT, THE AUTHOR. London, ift February 1780. «-fr T VI 3 ADVERTISEMENT. N the publication of a work of this nature, foniething may be expeded by way of prelude. If the plaudit of the public is not to be purchafed, their indulgence may pofTibly be fecured. But nei- ther of thefe motives has influenced the author to trefpafs upon their time. He would deprecate their pardon, not for having given birth to this produdlion, but for having introduced it immaturely to the ob- fervation of the public. What little polifh would the clofe application of two years throw upon a body of this magnitude ! And yet, amid a variety of other avo- cations, two years only has the author been allowed to tranfcribe, correct, and finifh it. He fays, allowed, as neceility prefcribes the term, and his duty calls him to a diftant part of the globe, to perform other engagements, to pay other debts, than what the deflre of pleafing prompts, or the love of fame exads from him. Under this conviction, therefore, he waits fllently the probe of criticifm. But the candid critic, like the fkilful furgeon, is fparing of the knife, and, but 10 in ADVERTISEMENT. vui in defperate cafes, is inclined to proceed to extremi- ties. Into fuch hands it may be the lot of the author to fall. Where the eye takes more delight in beauty thkfi in deformity, where the difpofition is more apt to praife than to cenfure, no doubts could deter an author from appearing at the bar of criticifm. In a defcription of countries little travelled, and of men little known^ there may poflibly be miftakes that have arifen from milinformation, or even mifconception of things. In a detail of adventures committed often to paper in moments of peril and diftrefs, there may, indcedj be a repetition of fentiment, and fometimes a contradi6lion of opinions before advanced, which the greateft attention, during a two years revifal, has not been able to correal. But if impartiality has uni- formly diredled his pencil, and his pictures are not even fo highly coloured as nature would have per- mitted ; if he has rather confulted the public amufe- ment, than the gratification of his own vanity, this early publication, with all its imperfedtions, will not want an advocate among the literati. And here he was about to congratulate himfelf on having gained fo cflential a point. To the private approbation of Mr. Reed of Staples-Inn, was the author conlirmed in the hope of fuccefs, and to his open recommendation of this work to fome who knew the value of Mr. Reed's judgment, the reader, pro- 3 bably, ADVERTISEMENT. ix bably, owes that it is now fubmitted to his view. To the friendfhip of Mr. Braithwaite of the Poft-Office, he may place this, and other material helps he has experienced in the courfe of publication. But he fhould afk thefe gentlemen's forgivenefs, for involving them in a queftion, where their names are ufed lefs to their advantage than to that of the author. It behoves him to fay a word or two on the head of the Plates. His knowledge of drawing is fo confined, that more than a fketch of the places through which he paffed, exceeded the author's art. The antiquities? of Egypt have given employment to the pencils of aj Norden and a Pococke, and were not to be expeded- from the title of thefe travels. But drawings of par-^ ticular fcenes, in which he was engaged, and repre- fentations of the fingular cuftoms of the country,, would have brought them forward to the. reader's eye. He mufi: ever lament the deficiency of his work in; this refpedt : but he is happy at the fame time to ob- ferve, that there is a remedy at hand, for thofe who delight in novel pidlures. The reputation of Mr.- Dalton, his Majefty's antiquarian, was efbablifhed bv the work which he produced in 1752, confiding of plates of various antiquities in Greece and Egypt, The connoifTeurs, therefore, are not likely to be dif- appointed in the Supplement to that work,, which Mr. b Dalton X ADVERTISEMENT. Dalton is about to publifli. The defigns which re- late to Egypt, obtained as they muft have been with great difficuhy, and executed as they are with great fpirit, will prove fuch an elucidation to his labors,' that the author muft beg Mr. Dalton's pardon, if he prefiimes to recommend thofe defigns to the reader, which are fo peculiarly adapted to this work, that nothino; but its unworthinefs fliould divide them from each other. He has but one thing more to add, which concerns the companions of his travels. To the two gentle- men who accompanied him to Europe, he trufts an apology is necdlefs, as they will readily acquit him of a delign to pay any but a proper tribute to their characflers. By the other perfon, whom the hand of mifchance feparated from their company, he would wi(h to be underftood. The circumftances which produced that feparation fhould have been buried in oblivion, had not a regard for his own honor obliged the author to place the intentions of his companions and himfelf in their true light. The narrative of that affair — as it appears in this work — was figned by Major Henry Alexander, Mr. Anthony Hammond, and the au- thor, and tranfmitted to India at the time. The paper may have mifcarried, but the parties are alive to teftify the fad. All that delicacy and humanity could fug- 5 geft. ADVERTISEMENT. xi geft, has been obferved on the occafion. The name of the unhappy perfon is fupprefled, and felf-vindica- tion alone could have induced him to revive a fub-' » jed:, w^hich more nearly afFeded the author and his companions, than all their fubfequent misfor- tunes ! To conclude. Were books, any more than men,, to be judged only by their good intentions — 'Were no regard to be paid to the figure which they make in the world — this work would have a better chance to maintain its ground. But as there are other points to be confidered ; as truth can only be rendered effica- cious in an amiable drefs, and as the juftefl defcrip- tions muft be difgraced by inelegant language, the author cannot diveft himfelf of certain fenfations, which muft difturb the firmeft mind, on the eve of committing its thoughts to the difcufTion of the public b 2 CON- C O N T E NTS. LETTER I. Page i. yl DDR ESS — T&e author purfues his voyage from Madras to Suez '^ — Tedious pajfage acrofs the Indian ocean. — Makes the ijland of Socotra, Cape Guardafoy, the Arabian Jhore — Enters theRedfea by the Jl raits of Babelmandel — Hard Gale — Arrival in Mocha road — Occurrences at that city — Embarks again — Contrary winds — The vejjel driven by currents on the Arabian coajl — In imminent danger •of being wrecked among the Jhoals and breakers — Obliged to put into It he port of Tambo for a pilot — The author y &c. feduced ajhore, and made prifoners by the vizier of that place — Incidents during their confinement — The craft and villainy of the Arabs apparent in their attempts to pojfefs t hen f elves of the vefj'el — Stratagem for that purpofe — Its fuccefs — The vejfel brought into the harbor , and the author, ^c. return aboard under a guard, until an anfwer is received from the Xerif of Mecca, touching their dejiiny — A defer iption of ■the town and environs of Tambo — Interviews with the vizier — In- fiances of his duplicity and pride — Various difappointments in the hope of a fpeedy anfwer — The Jhawbunder of fudda at length ar- rives, charged with powers from the Xerif, to difpofe of the vejfel and crew — Negociations on that head — The veffel is carried to fud- da, under charge of an Arabian pilot, and the author and his felhw-t ravcllers are allowed to proceed— -Prefents to the vizier on .this cccafion — Egregioiifly impofed upon by this minifier in the hire of a vejfel — Thty embark on an open I oat for Suez. 7 Journal CONTENTS. xlii 'journal of the boat Impofition — Detained by contrary winds at the month of the harbor — Alarm at the fiidden difappearance of one of the author's fellow-travellers and the interpreter — They are fent back to the boat by the vizier — The boat fails to the northward, and puts into a bay on the coaji — Encounters two barks bound to the fouthward — Unhappy Jympto?ns of a difordered mind appear in thegen- . tlcman who abfconded — He awakens the apprehenfons of the Arabs ^ who infjl on his quitting the boat, and returning on one of the barks to fuddii — The abfolute necejjity of complying with this requifition — The dijlrefs of the author and his companions on this melancholy oc- cafion — The boat fails again — 'Difficulties of this extraordinary na- vigation — Touches at fever al ijlands on the Arabian csajl — Tedious pajfage to the gulf of Akaba — Strange injlance of the notion of the dominion ofevilfpirits — Makes thefiore adjacent to Mount Sinai — Cape Mahoitiet — "Enters the gulf oj Suez — The boat is run over to the Egyptian fiore in the night, and injlead of Suez, by the trea- chery of the Arabs, is carried to Cofre, a port of Upper Egypt, near four degrees to the fouthward, of Suez — The -vexation' of the author and his companions — Conch fion. LETTER II. Page 119. ^ D D RES S — The author, &c. land at Co/ire — Their reciption and accommodation there — Occurrences at that place — The de- mands of the government for its proteBion of our travellers — Unac- countable behavior of the Arab Jliaik — They fet out with the cara- van for Ghinnah on the Nile, under the care of the Jhaik^s fon — Part with the caravan — Alarm — Inconveniency of this mode of travelling — Intenfe heat of the fun — They replenijh their /kins atjbme fprings — Purfue their way, and experience extreme di/lrefs from thirjl, heat, and fatigue — Relieved by their arrival at the Nile-— Surprized at being carried to Banute injlead of Ghiunah — Remon- Jirate with the young Jhaik, who confents to take them to that city — Set XIV CONTENTS. Set out accordingly, and infix hours arefnfely houfed at Ghinnah-^ Tlje '■cillainy of their hojl and his family — Are vifted by the vizier of the place — Attempts to choufe them out of their money and effeSls — Find thenifelves chfe prifoncrs — T^hcir baggage fe arched and re- peatedly pillaged by the hojl and his affociates — Vifit from the ha~ . keem of the city, by the order of his majier, the Shaik Ul Arab-— Enquiry into their wrongs — Tumult in the houfe on that account-^ Uncommon inflance of courage and fidelity in an Arab domeftic — 'The hakeem removes our travellers to his own habitation — He is fup~ planted in his office by an Abyffinian, who, at the exprefs commands . of the Jliaik, takes them under his protedlion — The meannefs and rapacity oftbisfave — Advice comes to Ghiiinah of a robbery and murder committed on their late inhuman hojl, in a difpute with the young paik of Cofire about his ill-gotten booty — RefeSlions on fhis^ tragical event — The arrival of the Shaik Ul Arab — His interview with our travellers — His perfon and character defcribed — His po- ll tenefs and humanity — Exemplary injlances of his impartiality and jujlice — Unhappy Jiate of the country of Egypt — Rebellion on the- Nile — The paJJ'age to Cairo by the river flmt up — Doubts how to- proceed — Our travellers refolve to purfue their route through the defarts ofThebais — Are confirmed in this intention by the good Jloaik, who provides them with a conductor, and ejfentially interefis himfelf in their f of ety — They take leave of their generous benefaSlor, and enter the defarts with a body of fix teen — The rugged and mountain- ous face of the country — Unexpectedly fall in with a party of ca- mels, which proves to be a band of robbers, journeying from the Red- fea towards Cairo — A treaty concluded with the captain of the rob- bers — An Arab feafi — The two parties proceed in company — Diffi- culties of the road — Continual ranges of mountains every where pre- fent themfelves to the traveller — Sudden tranfit ions from heat to cold in the courfe of the journey — Replenijh their water-fiiins twice in the defart — Provifions begin to fail with the author and his companions. — Readily CONTENTS. XV '—Readily relieved by the robbers — Their forbearance and Jiri^ ob- fervance of their word — Halt in the neighborhood of the Nile to procure water— Alarm — Strike iiito the defart, andpafs over rocks cf granite or Thebaic marble — Obtain a fght of the Nile, and come upon the encampment of the- robbers — The author, &c. part ivith thefe fingular people — 'Remarks on their kofpifality- and good faith — ■ Rejoin the Nile — Travel on its banks — Pafs the villages ofVel'Ha- die and Ifcour, and difcern the pyramids to the wejiw'ard of the river —Halt at Tinnah, and engage a boat to convey them the rchiaining Jliort dijlance — foyfuUy embark for the capital— Happy arrival there, ajtd friendly reception by the Company's agent. Occurrences at Grand Cairo — Curfory obfervatioJzs on the city and its antiquities — Concife narrative of the late revolution in Egypt-— Our travellers return letters and prefenfs to the worthy Shaik Ul Arab by the camels, and em bark for Alexandria — Delightful voyage down the Nile — Review of the tow?ts and cowttry on its banks — Arrive at Rofetto — Beauty of its fit uation — The road to Alexandria infejied with robbers — Reimbark in a boat bound to that port — Critical fituation at the bogage, or mouth of the Nile — The boat Jlrikes the fands, but luckily efcapes, and enters the Mediterranean—- Dreary appearance of the coaji of Egypt — They fafely reach Alexandria, after a pajfage of fixteen hours — Some account of thitt city, a?id the elegant remains in its neighborhood — Droll anecdote offome Englijlj captains-^ AffeSling Jiory of the death of the late French Conful of Alexandria — Occurrences at that city — The au- thor and his companions embark on a French Jhip for Marfeiller- •—Conclufion — Pojlfcript. APPENDIX. Page 394. ■0 yJN Ode to the Defart, and another to the Nile, referred n this place from the body of the Work, ERRATA. Page 17. Line 2. for cab'm read cabbm. — -^ do. —— — 8. for fhipwrecked read wrecked. 123. 10. for vif.rors read vifitors. 178. — — 12. for eat read eaten. — — 238. ig.for human read humane. ■ 267. 21. for were readv/zs. ■ 356. 10. for Neiburh read Nicbuhr.. 'Lately Publi/hed for J. Dodsley, By the Author of this Work, Saint Thomas's Mount, a Poem, 2 s. 6 d» Bedukah, a Poem, 2 s. 6d. Eaftern Eclogues, a Potm, 2 s. 6 d. A SERIES OF ADVENTURES, &c. IN THE YEAR M.DCC.LXXVII. IN LETTERS TO A LADY. LETTER I. MADAM, WERE ability fubfervient to inclination, were the efforts of the heart to be feconded by the efforts of the ima- gination, I fhould with lefs fcruple begin upon the tafk which you have allotted me. But the feas which I have paffed, and the fands which I have wandered over, appear now to have been fraught with lefs danger than the adventure I am about to engage in. Once launched into the literary world, what has not a poor author to fear from the blalls of ridicule, and the rocks of envy ! But as the want of an oflentatious dif- play has fecured my footfleps from the affault of the wild Arab, fo may I hope, that the modefty of my pretenfions may prove my paflport through the wafte of criticifm. Happy at all events, in the profpedt of your influence, to protect the flrain that is guided by truth, and owes its exiftence to the commands of friendfliip. B The [ ^ ] The occunences of our voyage from Madras to Mocha, are like the generality of fea-affairs, too trivial to become intereft- ing, and too unvaried to afford amufement. Since the fables of the ancients have been banifhed our creed, a modern voyager finds it difficult to diverfify or embellifli his journal. Neptune ceafes to affert his empire over the waves, and Amphitrite no longer fkims the furface of the deep, feated in a coral chariot drawn by Mermaids, and furrounded by a choir of mufical Nereids. A ftorm therefore lofes the majefty which a Divinity would give it ; and our calms are really dull, for want of the company of fuch a beautiful Goddefs. I queftion whether the voyage of iEneas, if deprived of thefe fiflitious ornaments, would not become equally infipid with thofe publilhed by recent difcoverers, whofe heroes vifited people more ftrange, and feas more remote than JEneas, and encountered gulphs far more dangerous than Scylla or Charybdis ! There was nothing remarkable in our paffage to Mocha, but the length of it. We were above eight weeks in efte6ting a pafiage, which frequently requires but three. The latenefs of tlie feafon made us apprehenfive of delays, but not the continual ones we met with. At feveral periods we thought of nothing lefs than of getting to Suez by water. My fellow-travellers and myfelf were, however, refolved to profecute our journey by land, fhould the fnow Adventure reach any port in the Red- Sea. But the fight of land prefented us witli better pro- fpe(5ls. Wc had been two-and-foity days in crofling the wide ocean which divides India from Africa, when on the 31ft of March we faw indiftin6lly the ifland of Socotra, which lies about 35 leagues from the main. On the 2d of April we made Cape Guardafoy, which is a prodigious mountainous and craggy fliore. From hence we flood over to the coaft of Arabia, and by A 3 ] by an eafterly current, were driven fo far towards the ocean, tliat it was the 6th before we part Cape Aden. Here the re- mains of a Portuguefe fort are ftill vifible, which is an humi- liating monument of their former fuperiority in thefe parts. On the 9th we ran through the flraits of Babelmandel, with, a fine gale, which, joined to a ftrong current, fet us through in a quarter of an hour. There is a very ugly, fea in thefe ftraits, and they being the ufual entrance into the Red-Sea, I have annexed a plate of them, which was drawn upon the fpot. Velfels may pafs to the weftward of the iiland, but this is at- tended with danger. The gale encreafed to fuch a degree, that we were fain to run under the land at noon, in a bay about half-way between the ftraits and Mocha. Here we rode out a very violent ftorm, and thought ourfelves lucky in being fo well flieltered from the fury of it. The wind abated a little at day-break on the loth, when we weighed and ftood for Mocha. Though ftill boifterous, the wind was fortunately fair, and we were not many hours in running the diftance. At twelve o'clock we dropped our anchor in Mocha road, but were obliged to wait until the weather moderated, before we ventured to de- bark. The month of April was advanced, but we went afliore at Mocha the fame evening, in full confidence of being agreeably accommodated to Suez, on board the Adventure. We looked only upon the brighter fide of the perfpeftive ; as the difficulties and dangers annexed to a journey of 11 or 1200 miles by land, along a barren and barbarous coaft, could afford us no very pleafmg reflections. Mocha, the ancient capital of Arabia Felix, is fituated upon a fandy foil, about 12 leagues from the ftraits of Babelman- del, and in the latitude of 13° 15' north. This city is of great antiquity, and difplays a very handfome appearance to- wards the fea. But its beauty will not bear a clofe inlpcclion. B 2 Like [ 4 ] tj'ike the deformities which are fo frequently difcovered beneath a fair exterior, the infide of its buildings is by no means an- fvverable to the expe6lations which they raife. To furvey the defart on which it ftands, a ftranger muft be furprized at the plenty which reigns in the markets. There is not a tree within ken, that produces any fruit, but the dale, or herbage of any kind, to fupport the cattle which are daily expofed for fale. But to the fimplicity of the Arabian manners this circumftance is to be attributed. Where the natives are content with the coarfeil food that a country produces, it is no wonder that the more delicate viands are readily procured, by the few Europeans who vifit their fliores. And indeed, when we are informed that the fheep which are fold here, are all brought from the oppofite coaft of AbyfTmia, and the fimpleft vegetable, at no lefs a dif- tance than fifteen miles from Mocha, conjefVure would lofe itfelf in accounting for fuch plenty, were a clue not given to unravel the myftery. ■ Mocha is under the authority of a governor, as the Imaun, who unites the offices of high-prieft and king of Arabia Felix, always refides at Sennaa, a city about ten days journey from hence, delightfully fituated in a valley, with which this moun- 'lainous country abounds. The Turks have loft the influence which they formerly poffefled in this kingdom. They feem content, at prefent, to receive their proportion of the duties of the other provinces of Arabia, without pretending to exert the arbitrary fwray, which marks their government in the diftrifts that are more imsdiately within the reach of their arms. There is one privilege that the Imaun claims here, which cuftom has rendered familiar to the fubje6ls of a defpotic ftate, however op- jbreflive it may appear to the ideas of an European. He has an^'indifputable property in all horfe-flefli. So that if a ftranger takes a liking to an horfe, it is of no confequence to whom it [ 5 ] it belongs, provided he be content to pay the price, which the governor may fix on it in the name of his mafter. But the owner is feldom expofed to the mortificacion of being obliged to part with his property : the value of the beaft, however beau- tiful it may be, feldom proving in the leaft adequate to the price which is demanded for it. In their horfes the chief pleafure and pride of the Arabs confift. Pampered to an excefs that renders them fitter for Ihew than ufe, they ftand in the ftable, or are picketted at the doors of their mafters, from one fabbath-day to another. But on this feftival, they are adorned with a load of rich and un- wieldy furniture, with which they parade the ftreets from morning to night : and they now receive the only exercife which they are permitted to take. The governor's flud, which confifts of a number of choice horfes, are particularly drawn up in the fquare before his houfe. They are oppofed to each other in fquadrons, and at the word of command, the riders fet off at full gallop, and as they pafs each other, dart the pike or fpear with great dexterity. We paid a cuftomary vifit to the governor on our landing, and found him to be a grave and elderly man, meager in his body, and flovenly in his apparel. But with this unpromifing appearance, he has the chara£ler of being a very good and in- telligent man ; and much more inquifitive after the manners and difcoveries of European nations, than the generality of his coun- trymen. This peculiarity in his difpofition plainly evinces itfelf in the furniture of his audience chamber, which is ornamented with a broken figured clock, a French thermometer, and an Englifh quadrant. He received us very politely, and is a pro- feffed friend of the Englifh nation, whofe genius and fpirit he affects to admire. This piece of intelligence we obtanied from our refident here, who at the fame time communicated to us an [ 6 ] \n anecdote of his life, which is not unworthy of mention. "It not only carries with it an evidence of the intriguing temper of %e Arabs, but fets off to advantage the character of a man, to whom the Englifli are materially obliged. In the reign of the father of the prefent king of Sennaa, this man was the vizier and favorite. So univerfally was his ad- miniftration approved of, and fo neceflary did the old king think him to the welfare of the Hate, that he recommended him on his death-bed to the protection of his fon, in the moft earneft terms. The prince was deeply impreffed with a charge delivered to him at fo folemn a moment, and promifed his fa- ther, to make the knowledge and advice of the vizier the fole guides of his future life. And to this promife he veiy faithfully adhered, for fome years after his acceflion to the throne. In the courfe of this time, the young monarch had formed in- confiderate attachments for courtiers of his own age and difpofi- tion. Though this did not immediately interfere with the mi- nifter's influence in matters of government, it neverthelefs fug- gefted, to a difcerning mind, the approaches of negleft and dif- *^ace. To prevent the execution, therefore, of what he confi- "dered as inevitable, fhould he continue in his prefent office, he very wifely formed the refolution of retiring from court. A re- folution infpired by the foundeft philofophy, wavered not un- til an opportunity offered to put it into practice. One day when he was alone with the king, he took the li- berty to fpeak of the length of his fervices, and of the decline of his life. He touched modeftly upon his known affeflion, and zeal for the honor of his fovereign ; and befpoke his ma- jefty's indulgence for the petition which he was about to prefer. He concluded with an humble defire, that he might be per- mitted to refign his truft to one, whofe faculties and health c were [ 7 ] were more vigorous, and able to tranfadt the important affairs, in which he had been fo long employed. The better to cover his delign, he afFe6ted an inclination to vifit Mocha, where he purpofed to remain until his name was forgotten, and that time fhould weaken the malice of a faftion, which is the infeparable attendant of the belt adminiftration. It was not without reluc- tance, that the king complied with this unexpefled requell. He had a particular value and refpe6l for the minifter, and was not prepared to forego his fervices, although the latter had been artful enough to recommend for his fucceffor, one of the chief favorites of his mafter. The ftruggle, however, was of no long continuance. The king's pride was touched at the idea of being at a lofs for a fervant, and he haftened to inveft the very favourite who had been pointed out to him, with the dignity of the abdi- cated miniiler. But little did the minifter dream of the confequences of this refignation. Little did he forefee, that his fucceffor would lay hold of the wifli which he had expreffed to vifit Mocha, to load him again with the cares of government ; where his in- fluence would be confiderably leffened, though bis dignity would appear greater than before. No fooner had the new vizier poffeffed himfelf of his office, than he was determined to re- move for ever, fo virtuous an obferver of his adminiftra- tion. Poifon or the fword, was too dangerous an implement, againft fuch a charader. He had recourfe to a remedy which wholly anfwered his intentions ; and, by blinding the eyes of his fovereign, and advancing the opinion of his principles among the vulgar, muft be held as a maftcrpiece of courtly artifice. With the greateft appearance of warmth, therefore, he repre- fented to the king the outcry which would be raifed againft him, ftiould he fuffer an old fervant of his father's, and the guardian [ 8 ] guardian of his own youth, to vifit Mocha, without being dif- tinguiflied by fome public charader. He then infinuated the lucky occafion which prefented itfelf, to reward his fenaces with the government of that city. It was impoffible to fufpefl the treachery of this advice ; and it is not wonderful, that the monarch greedily took the bait. He that very day forwarded a commiflion to Mocha, which the old man had the mortification to find, on his arrival here. To him, however, the trick was obvious. He readily dived into the fcheme of his fucceffor, who, judging of others from himfelf, had taken an unnecelTary ftep to detach him fi'om the vanity of court-favor. The vexation of the governor is not to be defcribed. But rather than difturb the peace of his mafter with complaints, he has the virtue to encounter the fatigues of bufinefs, though repugnant to his in- clinations ; and is content to live a voluntaiy exile from his na- tive place, fecure of the afFe6lion of the people, and confcious of the elleem of the king. A king ! who flill continues under the delufion of having preferred a faithful fubje<5l, agreeably to his own choice. What a leflbn fhould this be to the fovereigns of more enlightened nations ! who may juftly apprehend the in- trigues of defigning men, when the refinements of party prevail within the narrow fcope of Arabian poUtics 1 The women in Arabia are kept in much flricler confinement, than thofe of their religion in India. The females of rank are Ihut up in their apartments, and never ftir abroad, except now and then, to accompany their huibands on an excurfion to the vallies. They are vailed at thefe times from head to foot, and fent off upon horfeback under cover of the night. But this fim- ple recreation does not fall often to their lot. The civilized Arabs are, of all nations, the Icaft incHncd to action; and it is to be fuppofed, that women born here, hve and die, without ftirring out of the walls of Mocha : fuch is the tax that is laid on r 9 ] on birth and greatnefs, even in the remote country of Arabia, How then can we be furprized at the vexations, which cloud the lives of the followers of a powerful court ? if female beauty be doomed to folitude in thefe rude parts, is not the liberty which is allowed it in more polifhed countries, too often the fource of calamities more grievous than confinement, of perfecutions more intolerable than the commands of an imperious mafler ? I doubt not, but there is many a toaft that blazes in the circle of St. James's, that fighs for the privilege of obfcurity, and would willingly hide the remains of a fliattered reputation in an Ara- bian feraglio ! To thofe of a lower degree, there is fome deviation permitted from the feverity of this cuftom. Though there are no public Hummums for the women to refort to as in Turkey, they are in- dulged with the freedom of vifuing their neighbors, when the dulk of the evening can Ikreen their perfons from obfervation : for the thick vails in which their faces are buried, utterly pre- clude the poflibility of diftinguifhing their features. We have met them ourfelves in the ftreets, and have conceived a favora- ble idea -of their faces, from the fymmetry of their figures. Incontinence is held much more criminal among the fingle than married females. Though adultery is punifhed with a heavy fine, the feduftion of a virgin is attended by a more feri- ous correction. In this they differ from the laws of more en- lightened kingdoms, where an injury of this nature, is not only unpunifliable by any courfe of law, but the matter itfelf is treated in a very light manner. And here the chara6ter of the Arabian legiflator rifes far beyond the boafted policy of European ftates. To his juftice it is owing, that the deftruclion of innocence is held in fuch abhorrence ; and to his re6litude of thinking, that the mere accompUce of a lewd woman fliould encounter lefs ri- gorous treatment, than the mean betrayer of unexperienced fim- C plicity. [ 10 ] plicity. How juft this obfeivation may be, I fubmlt with plea« Aire to the decifion of a lady, who can fo charitably diflinguifh between the follies and vices of her fex ; and who can feparate the errors of inexperience from the impulfes of a depraved in- clination ! We v^^ere furprized at the number of Chriftian renegadoes that refide at Mocha. Not, that the apoftacy of men, who- perhaps had no fenfe of religion until they profelTed Mahome- tanifm, could provoke our wonder; but how their worldly inte- refts could be advanced by the change. Reduced to a pitiful fub- fiftence, and held in deferved contempt by the natives, we fliould have furmifed their defeftion to be merely the effedls of defpair ; and that the fugitives from juftice alone, fought their fafety at this price, had not the example of a Greek prieft fomewhat fhaicen our opinion. This prieft, by name Ananias, I remember to have heard mentioned in Bengal, as a miracle of piety. And yet in the feventieth year of his age, did he publicly abjure the Chriftian religion, in the courfe of a pilgrimage to Mount Sinai. He was circumcifed, and received into the Mahometan church j and, to crown the whole of this ftrangc proceeding, was led about the city for three days, according to cuftom, mounted on an, afs, to receive the alms of the faithful, which eveiy convert is entitled to on his admiffion to their myfteries. This happened during our ftiort ftay at Mocha ; and is one of the greateft in- ftances of the infirmity of human nature, which has come within the fphere of my obfervation. The Englifli are the only nation who have a refident here ; and this is but a late regulation. The Eaft India Company were accuftomed to fend a fliip here eveiy feafon ; but now the coffee is tranfported on country bottoms to Bombay, from whence our Indiamen convey it to Europe. By this plan they are eafed of a confiderable expence ; as the appointments of fupercargoes to this [ " ] this ftation, and the heavy duties of this port, mull: have leffened the advantages which refult from this trade. No better means could have been devifed to ingratiate ourfelves with the natives, than the appointment of a refxdent among them. It is a plea- fure to me to add, that nothing could have better enfured the end in view, than the choice of the prefent gentleman who fills that poft. His mild demeanor cannot fail to engage the efteem of the people ; as his acknowledged abilities will lead him to im.prove every occafion, to reftore this drooping branch of com- merce to its original value. Neither is the prefence of Mr. Horfeley at Mocha, of lefs moment to the interefts of travellers, who prefer this fliort cut to Europe, to the old track by the Cape of Good Hope. Hofpitality and politenefs are acceptable in all places, but doubly fo to the way-worn traveller, who the leaft expe6ls to meet with them in a remote and uncivilized region. I have annexed a view of the town and fuburbs of Mocha, which I took from our vefTel on the day of our arrival here. There is a wall runs round the town, but there are no cannon mounted on it, except a few on a battery towards the fea. The northern and fouthern extremities of the town are flanked by two callles of a circular form, which are likevvife ornamented with guns, and were meant as a defence to the place. How much thefe Arabian engineers were miilaken in their ideas of fortifica- tion, will clearly appear from a circumftance, which occurred here about fix or feven years ago, and will fet their pretenfions to power in a proper light. The captain of a trading veffel from India, was afliore at the Englifli faftory, and correcting a flave for fome fault or other, the boy ran away, and took refuge in an Arabian houfe, where he was prevailed upon to become a Mahometan. In this countiy no Chriftian is permitted to keep a flave of this perfuafion. The boy availed himfelf of this privilege, and went abroad again, C 2 without [ 12 ] without any fear of his mafter's refentment. One day, how- ever, as he ventured to pafs the fa(5lory, he was obferved by the captain, whofe Enghfli blood boiled with indignation at this feeming infult. Unheedful of his fituation, he gave way to a- fudden impulfe of paflion, and ordered his fervants to feize the boy, and flog him feverely within the yard of the fadlory. This rafh aftion could not efcape notice, and was attended by con- fequences which he little expe6led. The fa6loiy was at that time uninhabited, except by the fupercargoes and captains during their fliort fl:ay here. It was not in the beft repair, and but little calculated to make a defence. The mob, which now gathered about it, eafily forced the gates ; and not finding the objedl- of" their refearch, whom they meant to have facrificed on the fpot, contented themfelves with plundering his effects. On the firft alarm, the captain wifely retreated to the terrace of the factory j and it was with no little difficulty, that he efcaped along the roofs of the houfes to the fea-fide, where he immediately took a- boat for his vefiel. This diflurbance was too fudden to have been checked under- the beft-regulated government ; but it might have been reme- died : fatisfa6Vion might have been made to the fufferer, had the governor been inclined to do him juftice. A deaf ear was turned to his remonftrances, and the captain was obliged to carry his complaint to Bombay : here, to the honour of the Britifh name, it was properly attended to. The councils were vigorous ; and two floops of war were diredlly fitted out for Mocha, to enforce redrefs. They accordingly appeared before the town, with all the implements for a bombardment ; and a meflage was fent afliore, to advertife the governor of their errand. It is impof- fible to conceive the terror of the inhabitants at thefe tidings. They deferted the caftles, which they had once confidered as im- pregnable, and were about to quit the city itfelf ; but this the governor r 13 J governor prevented. He thought proper to comply with the demands, which were made in the name of the fufFerer, and fent off 4,000 dollars to the commodore of the expedition j happy, to preferve the city from deftru6lion, and to appeafe the refentment of the Englifh, at fo cheap a rate. And even the money to make good this payment, was raifed unjuftly, though it was to fatisfy a juft demand. The Banian, or Gentoo mer- chants who are fettled h«re, and tranfaft all the bufmefs of the port, fell within the gripe of government on this occafion. They have alTured us more than once, that they were obliged to ad- vance the fum in queftion, for which they have not yet been fatisfied. It is necefiary to add, that this occurrence, fo dif- graceful in its nature, was antecedent to the adminiftration of the prefent governor j of whofe character I have had occafion to Ipeak in the moft favorable terms. To thefe Banians we were obliged for a part of our amufe- ments at this place. There is a wood of date-trees, which ex- tends from the fouthern fuburbs of Mocha, for fome miles towards the inland mountains. There is no mark of cultivation in this neighborhood befides ; and in this wood, one of the principal Banians has a country feat. We have no conveyance here, except affes, on which we ride about for our diverfion. In one of our excurfions we called at this feat, which is above three miles from the town, and on our way home, had an oppor- tunity of obferving a curious procefs in the vegetable world. It has already been taken notice of by naturalifts, but is too un- common to be known to readers of every clafs. The date-trees were now in blofTom j and we remarked the Arabs to be bufied about the branches. It is neceflary to ingraft all fruit-trees, to obtain good fruit ; but the propagation of the date is in another manner, and intimately refembles that of the animal creation. There is a male as well as female date- tree, which are diflinguifhed from [ 14 ] from each other by the color and (hape of the bloflbms. The male ti-ee yields no fruit ; but the gardener muft be careful, every fpring, to cull as many bloffoms from the male, as will ferve his purpofe. One of thefe at leaft he muft inwrap and bind up iti a bloflbm of the female tree ; without which ftie will prove as barren as the male. The Angularity of this operation is height- ened by its being difcovered by a people, who are at prefent groflly ignorant of every branch of natural philofophy *, It is to our refident that I am indebted for an ingenious conje6lure, relative to the barren coafts of Arabia Felix, with which I lliall clofe my remaks on this celebrated territory. For the fpace of fifteen or fixteen miles from the beach, the land rifes on a gradual afcent towards the foot of the mountains. Here the fcene fuddenly changes from a fandy wafte, to a ver- dant and fertile foil ; from a fcarcity of palatable water, to a profufion of chryftal fprings and running ftreams. In this defart barrier there are found quantities of fliells, and other produ6lions of the ocean, which feem to have lain there for many ages : this, joined to the fhelving appearance of the ground, renders the idea very probable, that this tra£l of land has been won from the fea, by the fecret operations of nature. There is, indeed, no informa- tion to be gathered of this event, among a people whofe annals carry no perfpicuity with them, beyond the days of their prophet. But the perpendicular fliores of the oppofite coaft of Africa, upon which the waters may have proportionably encroached, are an additional evidence in favor of this opinion. No ftranger, in traverfmg this Ihore, could polTibly conceive her right to the * There is little force in this compliment, v/hen it is known that the Egyptians have fo far improved on this mode, as to plant only a male date-tree in the middle of many females. The wind fcatters the male feed, which impregnates the female tree, without the trouble of the Arabian culture. title [ 15 ] title of Happy. But place him in her middle regions, beneath her balm -dropping woods, and amidft her delightful vales, where the fruits of every climate court his tafte, and the breezes of caffia refrefh his fenfcs, and he will pronounce, that fhe juftly retains the flattering appellation with which flie was honored by the antients- On the 1 6th of April we had completed our wood and water, and taken on board a fufRcient ftock of provifion to ferve us on our paflage. We chearfully embarked, therefore, on the Adven- ture, captain Bacon, and with an additional paffenger from India, Ipread our falls for the long-wiflied-for port of Suez. For fome days we were favored with a fair breeze, and moderate weather : but the wind changed fuddenly to the northward, and began to blow with great violence againft us. The moon was now at the foil, and we were to look for a continuance of the gale. In narrow feas the waters are foon agitated -, and we experienced fuch a difagreeable motion, from the inceflant working of the vefTel, that fome of my fellow-paffengers were again confined to their cabbins. As for my own part, I have had the good for- tune to be free from ficknefs during our tedious voyage, if I except an head-ach of four-days flanding, which I confider, in- deed, as a natural infirmity. Our hopes were once more revived, from the winds abating. We were by this time in the latitude of Judda ; and though the wind was flill contrary, we made a fhift to creep on daily towards our defired port. Our greateft progrefs was from ten to twenty miles in our way. We could not, with propriety, run more than thirty miles upon one tack ; and it was our cuilom to make one fliore about fun-fet, then to tack, and ftand for the oppofite fide, until day-break. We had beaten up in this manner, to the 24th degree of north latitude, and were within 150 leagues of Suez, when, in the afternoon of the 6th of May, we difcovered breakers ahead. The o veflel's 1 i6 ] vefTel's head was to the north-eaft, and the captain judged him*- felf, from his journal, to be in mid-channel. It may be fup- pofed, therefore, that this circumftance much alarmed us, as nothing but a ftrong eafterly current, could have thrown us among the rocks and ftioals, with which this part of the Arabian coaft abounds. Nor were our fears without foundation. The weather had been fo hazy all day, that we could fcarcely fee two leagues diftance. The veflel had been put about at the alarm before recited, aiKi we were failing with great fecurity towards the open fea, when the departing fun warned us of the de- ftru6lion on which we were running. The Iky cleared up for a moment as the fun fet, and prefented to our view, a line of rocks and flioals immediately before us, and on which, in a quarter of an hour, we muft have flruck, had not Providence, in this unexpected manner, delivered us from the ravenous deep. The moll experienced among us were appalled at this fight. We had breakers to tlie northward and weftward of us, and an un- known coaft to the eaft. Tlie wind fortunately favoring the only fafe courfe which was now left us, the veflel wore and ftood to the fouthwaid ; her two boats being fent a mile ahead to lead the way. In this manner we proceeded until midnight, when one of the boats fired a gun, as a fignal of diftrefs. Our fails were backed on this alarm -, and the boat prefently bore down to inform us, that flie heard the furf break clofe to her, and that there was no ground with fifty fathom of line. Our danger now became preffing. We were expofed to impending deftruction while the veflTel was in motion, and there was no probability of finding anchorage for her on this coaft. In this dilemma the vefiel's head was put towards the land. The weather happily continued moderate, and we made a fliift to fteer clear of the perils that encircled us, though not with- out frequent alarms . So defperate did our fituation appear, fo few [ ^7 ] few were the chances of fafety, that about two in the mornhig I retired to my cabin, and fecured what Httle money and va- luables I could conveniently carry about me. I loaded my pif- tols, and took out a packet of confequence from my cheft, which I kept by me, in expeflation of the vefTel's ftriking on the rocks. In cafe of fuch an accident, we were only to truft to our boats for our deliverance. This we had learnt from the captain and officers of the fnow Aurora, which was fhipwrecked on this part of the coaft, not fix months preceding our arrival. We met them at Mocha on their return to India ; and were advifed of the particulars of their difafter, which doubled our appre- henfions at the prefent crifis. The Aurora had been {landing, like us, for the Arabian coaft, and juft before day-break, fhe ftruck, without the leaft warning, on a funken rock. By the violence of the wind, flie was driven fo far upon the rock, as to bulge her bows, while at her ftern no ground was to be found with ninety fathom of line. It was impoffible that the veflel could hold long together in this pofition ; and the captain and crew had fcarcely time to take to their boats, when fhe feparated and went down. There was an ifland in view, to which they made, and which would have preferved them from fhipwreck, had the day broke but half an hour fooner. But we were at length re- lieved from our perplexity. With conftant founding we hit upon a narrow bank in fifty fathom, and joyfully dropped an anchor at four^in the morning. There was no ground, however, to be found by the boats that founded round the velTel. The bottom was rocky ; and fhould the wind frefhen, there was little dependance to be placed upon our anchor. Our fatisfadlion confequently was imperfe6l and precarious. The light, which had been fo long expefted, now dawned, and enabled us at leaft, to difcover the dangers that lurked around us. As the fun rofe over the coaft, we plainly difcerned the D mountains [ i8 ] mountains of Arabia j and to the fplendor of that glorious lu- minary, we were once more indebted for a gleam of hope, to revive our drooping fjjirits. We haftened therefore to take ad- vantage of this inteUigence. We weighed our anchor, with as much expedition as the depth of water would admit of, and u^ere rejoiced to get it fafe on board again. Our courfe was ftill di- re(Sed towards the land, which was often obfcured by the miils which hung over it. About noon we were clofe enough to dil^ tinguifh a large town, which, from our charts, we concluded to be Yambo. To this town we attempted to get. After various intricate traverfes, as the channel between the lands and rocks occafioned, we arrived at the mouth of the harbour, without which there is no ground, though the boats founded at the edge of the flioals. And now did we heartily congratulate ourfelves on the con- clufion of our troubles. We had heard at Mocha of the hof- pitality of this port, from the very perfons who had owed to the inhabitants, their life and freedom. Captain Adams, and the furvivors of the fnow Aurora before mentioned, had been re- leafed by the governor of Yambo fixsm the hands of the wild Arabs. Thefe banditti had feized them, on their reaching the continent in their boat, ftripped them of their cloaths, and brought them here with a view of felling them. Not content with this aft of humanity, he had furnifhed them with camels, and generoully fupplied them with money and neceffaries to carry them to Judda, where they were certain of finding Englifli veflels. Nay, the very commerce that is carried on between the Enghfli and the inhabitants of Judda, which, as well as Yambo/ is fubjedl to the Xerif of Mecca, difpelled any doubt which might arife concerning the good faith of thefe people. We knew that there were feveral Englifli veflels at Judda at the very time. We had landed a confiderable fum of money at Mocha, which was a prefent [ 19 ] prefent from the nabob of the Carnatic to the temple of Mecca ;■ and we doubted not of meeting with the mofl: favorable treat- ment at a place, which is in the neighborhood of Medina.' How dim is the perception of mortals ! What avails their boafted fagacity ! Their funds of lettered knowledge ! Their idle dreams of fecurity ! What appears the moft reconcileable to their judg- ment, turns out in the experiment, to have been trufted without caufe, and embraced without the evidence of convi6lion ! I have been the more particular in recapitulating the circum- fVances, on which we built a confidence in thefe people, as there are not wanting perfons, idle and malicious enough, to condemn even the fteps, by which their fellow-creatures have entailed mifery and deftruftion upon themfelves. The captain would have been cenfured for bringing his veffel into an un- civilized port, and the credulity of the paflengers held up in a ridiculous light, for trufting themfelves among a favage tribe, unverfed in the tender offices of humanity, and unreftrained by the laws of focial life. And to fuch this recital will be of ufe. While the generous breaft fliall plead our caufe, and make al- lowances for the frailty of our natures, thofe worfe than Arab fpirits fliall be robbed of the enjoyment of their fpleen, and of liberty to pafs fentence upon us, unheard. Entangled in a chain of fands and rocks, without a correal chart to direft us, or a leaman on board acquainted with the path of fafety, there re- mained no alternative but to enter a port, that feemed to open her friendly arms for our relief. We were certain there were pilots here who could condu6l us to Suez ; and to efcape fhip- wreck at fea, neceffity would have obliged us to hazard flaughter afliore, even had we not been taught to look for the moft hof-' pitable reception. It will appear in the courfe of this narrative, that had we not confidered the velTel's fafety prior to our own, our lives had probably never been endangered, and we had D z efcaped r 20 ] ♦fcaped a fund of trouble and difquietude. But to our ig- norance of the Arabian policy mull: our conduct be attributed, and that oppofition, which brought us to the brink of de- ftruclion. As the adventures which befel us in this place, were either im- mediately committed to paper, or as foon as I could regain a communication with the pen, I will beg leave to deviate from the mode which I have hitherto obferved, and keep a diary of our future tranfaclions. A tale of diltrefs is not only more intereft- ing when thus divided, but more capable of fpirit and accuracy. I afk not the colours of fidlion to heighten a pi6lure, which cannot fail to afFe6l, when reprefented by the fimpleft touches of nature ! W E D N E S D A Y, 7th May 1777. On the afternoon of this day we anchored at the entrance of Yambo harbor. We had fcarcely taken a view of the town through our glaffes, when we perceived a boat rowing towards us, which brought on board, an Arab of a venerable and plealing afpedt. His appearance befpoke him of no common rank, and we prefently found that he was a Shaik, and one of the members of government. This perfonage was charged with the compli- ments of the governor, or as he is here fly led, the Vizier of Yambo, and his congratulations on our arrival in a port, where we fhould want for nothing tliat was in his power to afford. Refrefliments we were in little need of. But our fpirits were elated with the proffer of a pilot, which the vizier juftly divined to be the motive of our errand. In a few minutes a fecond boat reached our vefTel, from which afcended an Abyffinian flave, handfomely cloathed and armed after the fafhdon of the country. He proved to be one of the C 21 J the vizier's guard, and came with an invitation from his maftet^ to favor him with our company on fliore. We were much taken with the freedom of thefe people's behavior ; and though they acknowledged to us, that no European veffel had put into their port before, we entertained no diftruft of their fmcerity, and readily promifed to take advantage of the vizier's politenefs. There were feveral of us in the fhip who talked the Moor lan- guage, and were equally deceived by the old fliaik, who was a Patau, and underftood it perfe6lly. He converfed with fuch eafe and gravity of face, that the eye of fufpicion might have been lulled afleep, and age itfelf relaxed of its feverity of opinion. After regaling them with coffee and tea, of which they wil- lingly partook, we difmiffed them with advice of our intentions to go on fhore in the morning. The preliminaries were adjufted ; and we agreed to falute the fort at fun-rife, when thefe meilen- gers promifed to come on board for us. . THURSDAY, 8th May. I was awakened this morning by the veflel's falute, whicli was irregularly returned by the fort. As foon as breakfaft was over, I went into the long-boat with the captain, two fupercar- goes, our interpreter, and three paflengers, who are bound for England as well as myfelf. We were accompanied by our fer- vants in a filher-boat, and about the middle of the harbor, were met by the old fhaik, the Abyffinian, and others of the vizier's train, who had been fent to condu6t us afliore. As we pafTed a decayed caftle on an angle of the fort, a very laughable incident occurred. A gun was fired from thence to welcome us to Yam- bo i but fuch a quantity of rubbifh fell down from the fhock, and fuch a duft obfcured the place, as immediately interrupted the [ 22 ] the falute, and Induced the garrifon to confult theii- own fafety, by an omiflion of the compliment intended us. Indeed, fo ruinous an appearance did the walls and buildings of this town exhibit, which had not probably been repaired fmce the days o£ Mahomet, that our contempt of it increafed to a degree, that would have ridiculed the idea of danger. At our landing we were met by fome officers of the viziers houlhold, and ufhered in great ftate to an apartment by the fea-ilde. Here were allem- bled fundiy of the principal inhabitants, who were feated on cai-pets, agreeably to the oriental cuftom. There were chairs provided for our reception, and we were ferved with coffee and perfumes. After an hour's delay, at which we were fomewhat furprized, but have fmce been able to account for, the vizier fent to ac- quaint us of his being ready to fee us. We were accordingly at- tended in the fame manner as before, to a building within the fort, and introduced to this minifter. He received us fitting ; it being unufual with the Arabs to rife up, to falute thofe of an inferior rank. We advanced however, towards him, by the di- re£lion of our interpreter j on which he put his right hand to his breaft with a flight inclination of his head, and gave it to each of us, as a token of his amity. Of all the Muffulmen whom I have yet feen, the vizier of Yambo is the faireft. With- out the mixture of red and white, that diflinguifties Europeans from Afiatics, his complexion did not yield to any of our com- pany. His eyes black and fparkling ; his nofe aquiline, and his countenance cxpreffive of great fweetnefs and fenlibilit}-. He feemed to be between thirty and forty years of age, and was not the leaft embarraffed by the prefence of ftrangers, whom he only knew by report. We had been furprized at the deportment of tlie vizier's fervants yefterday. But that was a fcene of little admiration, 3 [ 23 ] admiration, when compared with the audience we now obtained. The impreflion will never be effaced from my mind. The powers of Garrick would, if poflible, fall Ihort, to fupport the; countenance and addrefs of the vizier during an interview of two hours, in which fuch complicated deceit and villainy were ufed, as throw the crooked politics of Machiavel far behind ! After the firft ceremonies were over, and the coffee and per- fumes brought in, the vizier repeated his offers of afliftance. He profefled a great refpeft for the Englifh nation, and a regard for the nabob of Arcot — in whole fervice the captain had de- clared himfelf — for his generous attention to tlie poor of Mecca. He flattered us with the profpedl of getting eafily to Suez j, and as we were in want of a pilot, he fent for the captain of the port, to examine him in our prefence, touching our future paf* fage. Nothing could be more plaufible than this behavior. We were profufe In our acknowledgments of the minifter's goodnefs, and little imagined that the man who was fummoned before us, had been tutored for the purpofe, during our ftay at the fhaik's houfe. In a fhort time this ofKcer appeared, and was queflioned by the vizier himfelf on the certainty and length of our voyage to Suez. The particulars of this converfation were conveyed to us by our interpreter, who flood between them. It had long been our fear, that the foutherly winds were exhaufted, and that the northerly monfoon was about to fet in; which would inevitably prevent our further progrefs. And it was on thefe points that the pilot infifled. He expreffed his doubts of making the pafTage, and his apprehenfions of endangering an Englifh veffel ; the confequence of which he could not anfwen At length he pofitively declined the undertaking, as hazardous and impra6licable. Much argument did the vizier ufe to render him compHant. He threw out the lure of the reward, which his [ 24 ] his fuccefs woucl entitle him' to j and even afFeifled to be (hocked at his prelumption and pufiUanimity. He fubmitted the matter to ourfelves, and offered, if we pleafed, to fend the pilot in irons on board our veffel. To this violence it may be fuppofed, we univerfally diffented -, at the fame time that we declared our fenfe of this mark of tlie minifter's friendfhip. The head pilot was therefore difmifled, and another fent for, whom the vizier pretended to judge would be more tra6table. But with him we had no better fuccefs. He was equally backward with the former, to take charge of the veffel ; and after much futile per- fuafion, the minifler turned round to us in feeming trouble, and expreffed his regret at our bad fortune. The captain now totally abandoned all thoughts of proceeding further ; and was content with the promife of a pilot to carry him to Judda ; the port to which the fliip was ordered, in cafe of the lofs of her pafTage to Suez. The travellers deflined for Europe, now preferred their petition. We requefled a boat, to tranfport us to Suez with our baggage ; and informed the vizier of our being feverally charged with packets for tlae Eall India Company, both from the nabob of Arcot and the governor of Madras. To this he gave a gracious aflent j and the pilot en- gaged to fit out a boat for us in five days. Nay, the price of his trouble was fixed at 50 dollars, which apparently exceeded his ex- pectations. Our conference had been fpun out to a great length, and as our bufinefs was difpatched, we made a motion to retire. It was our intention to have repaired immediately to the veffel, where dinner was provided : but the vizier acquainted us at our departure, that he had directed refrefhmcnts to be prepared for vs at the fliaik's houfe, of which he hoped we vvoul<^ partake. As the day was pretty far advanced, and we travellers were anxious to adjuft the particulars of our voyage with the pilot, we unwittingly Ivvallowed the bait which was thrown out for 9 us. [ 25 ] US, and returned with the old fhaik to his houfe, little dream- ing that it would become the theatre of our troubles ! On a candid review of the foregoing fcene, even on the very day it occurred, I cannot charge my memory with a fmgle cir- cumftance, by which the fmcerity of the vizier was liable to fufpicion. So well was the plot laid, with fuch addrcfs did the principal chara6lers conduft themfelves, that never fiction fo happily afllimed the air of truth. The flightefl alarm would probably have prevented the confequences which enfued, as none of us imagine the fhaik or his attendants were authorized to oppofe our departure, had we made an effort to regain our boat, inftead of returning to the houfe of our conductor. But we were lulled into a fecurity, that was particularly ftrength- ened on the part of ns travellers, from an information which the vizier gave us. Two Englifh gentlemen had been recom- mended to his good offices by the Xerif his mafter ; and he had difpatched them with a packet to Suez, but a few days before our arrival. This circumftance encouraged our hopes. We conceived the packet to be the fame, which a captain Dibdin was charged with from the ufurped adminiftration at Madras ; and we were emulous of not being outftripped in a race, where we contended without reproach. We had not been half an hour at the fhaik's houfe, when a mefTenger came to fummon our interpreter to the vizier's prefence. This man was an Arab by birth, and had performed a pilgrimage to Mecca; an aft of devotion which every true Muffulman undertakes, either in perfon or by proxy, before he dies. From this he had obtained the title of Hadgy. He was a flirewd fenfible fell ow, and proved of infinite fervice to us in the fequel, by letting us into the defigns of his countrymen. He returned after a fhort abfence, with evident marks of fur- prize in his countenance, which foon communicated itfelf to E our [ 26 ] our breafts, by the meflage he brought. It imported, that the vizier could render us no afliftartce, until he received an order from the Xerif of Mecca concerning usj and that it would be advifeable for the captain to dire6l the officer on board, to bring the veffel into the harbor. Such a contradiction in his conduft immediately opened our eyes to the wrong that was in- tended us ; and we began to think of the beft method, to ex- tricate ourfelves from the fnare we had fallen into. A retreat to our boat naturally fuggefted itfelf : but our deliberations were foon interrupted, by one of the company obferving from a win- dow, that there was a guard upon the houfe. To be certified of this, I walked through an area that led to the gateway, which I found befet by a troop of foldiers. There was now no- thing left us, but to put the beft face on the matter. We fent the interpreter back to the vizier, with expoftulations on the duplicity of his behavior. We reminded him^of our having come afliore at his own invitation ; and that he could not de- tain us, without a violation of the law of nations, and of hof- pitality : for a regard to which the Arabs were uni\'erfally ce- lebrated. We demanded, what bufinefs he or his mafter could have with a vefl'el, which had not entered their port, and was in want of nothing but a pilot, which it was at their option to afford her. We obferved the odium that would attend fuch pro- ceedings towards the property of a prince, to whom the Xerif was fo much indebted, both in refpecb to the commerce which he carried on with the port of Judda, and the very valuable prefent that our vellel had brought for the temple of Mecca. Finally, we warned him, not to offer any infult to the Britifh flag, which the moft barbarous nations had been taught to refpect. The interpreter was likewife charged to demand an audience for the captain, that he might argue the matter with the vizier. But this effort was unfuccefsful. The poor fellow came back with a Z long [ 27 ] long face, and brought a ftii6l injundion to the captain, to or- der the veffel into the harbor, and a defire that we would make ourfelves eafy, until the orders refpe6ling us arrived, which would be in fix days at furtheft. The captain's fuit was declined, on pretence of the vizier's being engaged with company. We now confulted upon the fteps to be taken in this exi- gency. Our junftion with the fliip was infallibly cut off. The mariners who had been left to take care of the boat, had by this time, been fent to the place of our confinement. From them we learnt, that our boat was carried to an unknown part, at the moment of their feizure. Our own detention was confe- quently confirmed, and the efcape of the veffel from the hands of thefe robbers — for fuch we regarded them — was the point to which we turned our views. Indeed, we confidered her as the anchor by which our lives were held. It was JmpofTible to anfwer for the forbearance or humanity of people, who had broken through the mofl facred precept of their religion, in their treatment of us, fhould they once get the veffel into their poffefTion, by whofe means alone the circumflances of our de- tention could be brought to light. With our concurrence there- fore, the captain wrote a pofitive order to his chief mate, to weigh or flip his anchor, with the firfl favorable wind, make the beft of his way to Judda, and there communicate our flory to the captains of the Englifh vefTels. And even this fcheme appeared to us by no means as fafe or feafible. The veffel lay in a narrow channel, with fhoals and breakers on each fide of her ; and the northerly winds prevailed the greateft part of the day, which obfliu6f-ed her departure. Add to this, that her paf- fage to Judda was dangerous without a pilot ; to the chance of procuring which, the ofHcer mufl have trufted to the coafting boats. But all obflacles funk under the preffure of necefflty^ The captain and fupercargoes were more particularly interefled in the E 2 preiervation [ 28 ] jprefervation of the veffel and cargo ; and among the valuables that the paffengers had on board, I chiefly confidered a packet, which a noble friend * had entrufted to a fellow-traveller and myfelf. We wtre, perhaps, fingular in our concern for fome moveable or other. But we were unanimous in our defire, that the veffel li'hich contained it, fliould get beyond the reach of thefe fpoilers. While our interpreter was difpatched with this letter to the vizier, to give a very oppofite explanation of the contents, which their \itter ignorance of our language enabled him to do with fecurity, we fate down upon a carpet, to partake of a fru- gal meal which the old fhaik had fet before us. It confifted of flewed mutton, garniftied with raw onions. Flat cakes of flour were our plates, and our fingers fl:ood us in Heu of knives and forks. Notwithftanding the agitation of our minds, and this unufual method of eating, we made a fliift to clear the difli in a few minutes, to the no fmall admiration of the fliaik and his attendants. The natives of Arabia are very temperate in their diet ; and though we found that the lower clafs would drink fpirituous liquors to excefs, we have reafon to believe, that the better fort generally adhere to the precept of the Alcoran, which forbids the ufe of them. Pure water is their common draught, and with this we were obliged to crown our meal. Our watches had advifed us of its being paft five o'clock, when the interpreter returned with an order to the fliaik, to fend a boat off with the letter. It now occurred to us, that the captain had better proffer himfelf to execute the vizier's pleafure. His efcape would have proved an additional fecurity to the veffel ; and though we almoft defpaired of fuccefs, we omitted not our endeavors to carry this point. The captain and the two fuper- cargoes were feparately propofed to be the bearer of the orders ; but all that we could obtain, in the courfe of two hours folici- * The right honorable Lord Pigot. tation. [ 29 ] tation, was leave for a fervant to go off with the letter. It was now near eight o'clock, and we had the further mortifica- tion to be kept in fufpence an hour longer, before the boat was ready. We felt for the fituation of the officers on board, who had expe6led our return to dinner, and had received no intelli- gence from us fmce we had been afhore. We knew not what defigns might be concerting againft the vefTel, which lay within half a mile of the coaft ; and until the officers aboard were cau- tioned of the danger, our general fate was undetermined. Night had thrown her fable curtains around us, and treachery and ftrata- gem, which fhun the light, might now be bufy for our deftru6lion. We were entangled in thofe toils, with which the dauntlefs lion ftruggles in vain. The pale glimmering of a lamp ferved juft to afford us a fight of each other, and the pofture of a part of our guard, who had civilly intruded themfelves into the room, where gentlemen, fervants, and mariners, to the number of twen- ty, were crouded together. The fea furrounded three fides of our prifon, and the other was fecured by a ftrong body, armed with matchlocks, piftols, and fabres. Though it afterwards appeared, that our fituation could be more alarming than at this period, I fhould think fuch another hour clearly purchafed with the wealth of the eaft. I can truly affirm, that when death feemed unavoidable, when the miniflers of vengeance flood ready to perform its mandate, my thoughts were more collected, and my refolution more confirmed. So preferable is the knowledge of the worft which can befall us, to a ftate of uncertainty ! But our minds were at length relieved by the arrival of the boat, which took our fervant from the window of our apart- ment. A defperate fcheme now fuggefted itfelf for our efcape, but was rcjedled, on a conviiflion of its folly. There was a guard in the boat as well as in our room ; and we had obferved fol- diers planted on the walls, as fpies upon our motions. To have regained [ 30 ] regained our Avords, the only weapons we had brought afhore, we muil have betrayed our defign. To make the attempt un- armed, would have been worfe than madnefs. We therefore con- tented ourfelves with adding verbal inftru£lions to the fervant, for the officer's pofitive departure, and prepared to take that repofe, which the circumftances we were under, might allow of. But here, we reckoned without our hoft. Sleep and we were not fo near, as we expelled. The boat had not long left us, when we obferved fome of the domeftics remove the carpets, which had been fpread for our beds. We had not time to indulge our conje6lures on this incident, when the old flaaik appeared, and with much apparent concern acquainted us, that it was the vizier's order, we ihould be confined in an upper apartment of the houfe during the night. The place to which he pointed, was a tower, againfl which our very natures revolted. The or- der itfelf had a black appearance -, and though it turned out to be only meant for the better fecuring our perfons, it is no wonder that fome among us fliould attribute it to be a proje6l, for the readier perpetration of their villainous purpofes. In fliort, it was agreed upon to oppofe the execution of this order to the utmoft; and though a6lual refiftance was equally vain and hopelefs, we found the good efFefts of not tamely fubmitting to this indignity. The fhaik was charged to tell the vizier,, that we would not go to the dungeon allotted us, unlefs com- pelled by force of arms ; and again to warn him of treating us harfhly. And this commiffion was fo faithfully executed, that in about an hour, our carpets were returned to us, and we were delivered from further perfecution for the prefent.. Our fpirits were much raifed by the fuccefs of this meafure ; and we began to entertain hopes that no violence was intended us. Our late diftrefs became the fubjedt of mirth ; and we af- fe^ed to regret, that our ftory would not be enriched with the adventure [ 31 ] adventure of the round' tower. We betook oiirfelves, without repining, to our humble lodging on the ground ; and I enjoyed a very comfortable nap until day-break, although my noftrils were plentifully regaled with the fumes of tobacco, from the pipe of one of our guard, who had taken poll in the feat of a window above me. FRIDAY, 9th May. When I awoke this morning, I found our fervant had re- turned, with an anfwer from the chief mate ; which expreffed his concern for our fituation, and his intention to get away with the firfl favorable wind, agreeably to the captain's direc- tions. This was very pleafmg intelligence ; and we drank the coffee which was now brought us, without complaining of its being unpalatable. The Arabs never adulterate their coffee with fugar or milk. Thefe are quite an European addition; as is the cafe likewife with refpe6l to tea, which is drank pure in China. I muft acknowledge, that I prefer our method of pre- paring thefe articles of luxury; but were we to ufe tea and coffee in fuch quantities as the natives of thofe countries, we fhould neither find them pleafant nor falutary, when mixed , with other ingredients. There is fcarce an hour paffes in the day, that coffee is not ferved up here; and their coloons, or pipes, are never from their mouths, but when they are at meals or afleep. Our attention was engaged the whole morning towards our veffel, which we could fee very plainly from the windows of our apartment. The wind began to blow from the northward ac- cording to cuftom, and before noon encreafed with Tuch vio- lence, as not only to cut off the poffibility of her departure, but, even [ 32 ] even to alarm us for her fafety ; as fhe rode without the har- bor, and lay expofed to all the fury of the fea and weather. We now plotted for the recovery of our boat ; the abfence of which, with the prime part of her crew, might occafion the lofs of the veflel, in cafe of her parting her cable. For this purpofc we difpatched our interpreter to the vizier, who was entrufted to exprefs to him our doubts of the officer's obedience. We remarked that the wind blew into the harbor, and the velfel had made no motion to weigh her anchor and ftand in ; and we at- tributed the officer's backwardnefs to his entertaining a notion, that the orders which he had received, had been extorted front us. As a means, therefore, of fatisfying him, we propofed that the vizier would permit our boat and mariners to go on board, with a fecond order from the captain, and a declaration of our having done nothing by compulfion. At the fame time we in- fmuated, that the fight of our boat and people would overcome any fcruples, which the officer might have harbored in his breaft. The whole day was fpent in this negotiation, and we . began to think it would prove fruitlefs, when this crafty minifter was foiled at his own weapons, and allowed himfelf to be egregioufly duped. An Arab boat with a guard, however, was ordered to accompany ours ; and the captain wrote a fecond letter to the officer, conjuring him to depart by the firft opportunity, and to detain the fhip's boat, and return our fervant on the other. He alfo dire6led him to appear enraged at the contents of the letter, and to declare to the Arabs that he would fail at day- break. We took this opportunity to fend on board for a Ihift or two of linen j a convenience which we had been two days debarred of, and which, in other circumftances, would have been lufficiently diftreffing in a warm climate. I had feveral valuables 5 about C 33 ] about me ; but I had not a thought of prefervhig any thing from pillage, except the pi(5lure of a dear iifter, which I had worn for many years about my neck. From this bofom-friend did I now refolve to part ; and the moft fenfible pang which I en- dured in our captivity, was at the moment of my delivering this pidture into the hands of the fervant, who was going off to the veiTel. I was afliamed of my weaknefs, and retired to a window in order to conceal a tear, which rofe in my own defpite, from the fountain of afFeftion ! We were entertained by our hofpitable fliaik with a dinner^ fmiilar to that of yeflerday ; with the addition however of water- melons, which are much larger and finer here than in India. It is but doing him juftice to fay, that he has behaved to us with the greateft civility and attention j infomuch, that our food is frequently ferved up with his own hands. We were inquifitivc about the vizier's intentions, but could get nothing out of the old man, except exhortations to patience, and hopes of a fpeedy anfwer from Mecca. The fufpence we live in, is the greateft hardfliip which we labor under. In other refpefts, our fitua- tion is as comfortable as prifoners could expe6l. Our very guard are as civil as their manners will admit of -, and though their prefence is troublefome enough, we have hitherto met with none of thofe infults, which the petty tyrants of our own coun- try are fo apt to exercife over the poor wretches in their cuf- tody. Though we have fallen into the hands of an arbitrary government, we have not become the prey of its fervile and un- feeling inftruments. About nine o'clock at night we were advertized of the return of the Arab boat, but without our fervant or Hnen -, the Arabs having been fo intimidated at the officer's affeftation of anger, as to leave the vefiel with precipitation. This news was commu- F nicated [ 34 ] nicated to us by our hoft, who feemed much furprized at the prefumption of the officer towards his captain, which he could by no means reconcile to his own ideas, of fuboi dination to his -fuperiors. Our only concern was the want of the linen, and fome liquors that we had fent for. But we confoled ourfelves with the thoughts of procuring them in the morning by fome acci'- dent or other j and in the mean time compofed ourfelves to reH:. SATURDAY, icth May. - loTbe' lafl: raght was pafled in the fame manner as the firft, ex- .cept that we were lefs crouded, by the departure of our boat's crew j a circumflance not immaterial in an hot climate, where our apart- ment did not meafure more than fixteen feet by ten. I rofe be- »fore day-break, and going out on a fmall terrace bounded by the fea, for the benefit of the morning airi was furprized at' the found of female voices, which feemed at no great diftance. I looked up, and found it to proceed from the windows above me; ■the. lattices of which were now open, and filled with women. Thefe were members of the old fliaik's family, and I little ima- gined that we could meet with fuch treatment in the neighbor- hood of a feraglio. We had accefs to but one room in this^man- iionj the upper part of which was confeerated to beauty, under equal reftraint with ourfelves. Had we been polfefFed of the true fpirit of chivaliy, we fhould have gloried in our fate, that enabled us to wear the fame chains which enflaved the fair : and, rcgardlefs of our own dcftiny, we fhould only have refolved hov/ to deliver thefe captive damfels from their-enchanted caftle. But alas 1 tliere was no Quixote among us ; and we fliall remain as a fignal iaftance of the degeneracy of thefe latiter times. . I liilened attentively to thele females, who were very earneftly engaged; [ 35 ] engaged ; and though I am a flranger to the Arabic language, I judged from the motions wliich they made ufe of, that we were the fubje(5fs of their difcourfe. I even flattered. mylelf, that they were touched with pity at our fituation, from the tones of their voices at certain intervals ; and, though the romantic notions I entertain of tlie general tendernefs and benevolence of woman- kind, may have rendered me too fanguine in this particular, I have not the leaft doubt but they interefted themfelves in our fafety. and would have contributed towards our efcape. As the light dawned they found themfelves obferved, and retired from the windows, but not without many refpeftful obeifances and looks of commiferation. About {even o'clock the vefTel fired a gun and loofed her foretopfail, the cuftomary fignals for failing : and we received a letter from the officer to this eftc6f. This he had fent by our fmall boat with two failors, whom he could well fpare to pro-; vide for our neceffities, which were become prelfmg. We now go*: a meflage from the vizier, demanding the refult of the offi- ce's determination. To this we replied, that he ftill denied the captain's authority over him, and was on the point of failing for Judda, with the account of our detention. Had this defign been fortunately executed, the .end which we had in view, would probably have been anfwered : for feeing his prey efcape him, which, was the fliip, the vizier would, it is to be prefumed, have lent us after her in our boat, as lumber too unv/orthy to be vvith-held. By this time the veffel was in motion. T]:e rocks had cut her cable as her crew were weighing her anchor, and Ihe fwung bo- dily towards a reef of breakers, before they could bring her up with another anchor. At this moment we tafted the bitternefs- of anguilh. We plainly i'aw the veffel driving on deilruftion, and ifood idle fpectators of a misfortune beyond our power to F 2 avert. '[36 ] .avert. Our captain himfelf, a man of fkill and experience, gave her up as loft ; and we vented the ebulHtions of our rage, in impotent threats, and idle imprecations on the author of our diftrefs. The horrors of our fituation rufhed at once upon our minds. All hopes of relief would perifli with the veflel, and we be left at the mercy of a race, the profefled enemies of our religion. The fears of dete6lion might infpire them with the worft defigns ; and though our lives might be remitted us, the more grievous alternative of pining away our days in flavery,, cut off from a communication with our friends and country, might be our portion. Nor were thefe the weak fuggeftions of defpair. Every thing confpired to darken the profpeft be- fore us. Our hoft and guard had caught the alarm, and painted the danger of the veffel in fuch ftrong colors to the vizier, as induced him to permit us to fend our boat to her aflift- ance. We gladly availed ourfelves of this circumftance, though the immediate danger was over before the boat reached the vef- fel, which now rode at anchor within a fathom of the rocks. Had the wind encreafed as ufual, her refpite would have been but fhort. But Providence decreed otherwife. The weather proved fo moderate the whole day, as to allow the officer to warp her into her old birth again. While he was employed in a tafk that calmed the perturbation we were under, we obferved a ftrange boat pafs near him, and make towards the town. At the fame time we heard the report of muflcets, but could not diftinguifh, whether it came from the veflel or the boat. We cannot fay pofitively, whether it was a fcheme to entrap us, or that the vizier really fuppofed our people had commenced hoftilities againft the Arabs ; but fo it was : the boat had fcarcely reached the fiiore, when the vizier fent for our interpreter, to complain of the outrage, and to let us know that we had no right to expeft good treatment from 3 him [ 37 ] him hereafter. It was in vain, that we appealed to the teftimony of the mafter of the boat, who came to us of his own accord, and depofed, that our people had not fired at him. That they had only brought him to, with a mufket, and offered him money for a pilot, which he had refufed them. A formal demand was now made of our fwords } and we fufpe6ted there was fomething un- common in agitation, from the whifpers of our guard, and the frequent meffengers that came to and fro. One of our company obferved a body of foldiers marching towards the place, where our velTel lay ; and not a flone's throw from us, we faw them unlading a boat of ammunition, which they had tranfported acrofs an arm of the fea, that runs into the town at high water. Thefe preparations plainly indicated their defigns on the vefTel, againll which we had previoufly cautioned the officer to prepare himfelf. The Adventure carried eight 3-pounders, befides fwivels ; and we had not the leaft doubt of her repelling the whole of their force. But we were unacquainted with the policy of the Arabs, who trufl to craft for the accomplifhment of their wiflies ; and only afFe6l refolution, when they can do it with impunity. The hills now re-echoed with the found of cannon ; which we learnt was a fummons to the neighboring tribes to join the holy flandard, which is fet up in times of danger. And this was a prelude to a fcene, that threatened to end very tragically. We were ruminating on the ifTue of this extraordinary adventure, when the Arabian mufketry began to play brifkly on the vefiel. As a part of the fort fkreened the a6lion from our view, we re- tired to the front windows of our apartment, where we could better obfervc the veffel's motions. I had Thompfon's feafons hi roy hand, and had, inadvertently, caft my eyes on the fublime hymn which crowns that delightful work, when a band of ruf- fians rufhed into the room, and ranged themfelves directly be- fore us. Their appearance was rude, and their countenances very [ 33 ] very different from the people we had hitherto converfed with. Tlu-y were of the roving race, and promifed to prove worthy of the dark purpofe in which they were engaged. The matches of their pieces were hghtcd, and we tottered on the brink of fu- turity ! — The villaiiiy of the Arabs was now apparent. They were endeavoring to piovoke our mariners to return their fire ; and we well knew, that the dea-.h of one MufTidman is only to be atoned for, by the lives of ten Chriftians. This is a precept of their religion. But the officer on board, had reflexion enough to confidcr his countrymen afliorc. He felt for our diftrefs, and was ilo cool as to bear with their repeated infults for the fpace of two hours ; although the mulket-balls flew into the vef- fel, and he was continually urged by the crew, to pour a broad- flde among the troops, fome of whom were daring enough to wade into the fea, within pillol-fliot of the veflel. Nay, we afr tcrwards learnt our fituation had been fo critical, that nothing but threats of infl:ant death, could prevent the failors from tak- ing to their arms ; and the officer v^as obliged to parade the deck v/ith a loaded mulket, to intimidate them. But it is not ftrange, tliat we fliould apprehend other meafures. We knew not what- fleps they had taken, to facilitate the feizure of the velTel ; or how long the forbearance of our people would lafl: : and we ex- pe6led an engagement every nipment, to commence between her and the fliore. At this crins we held a conlultation together, and it was unanimoufly refolved, to demand a parley with the vizier, touching the delivery of the vefl'el into his hands. Our interpreter was difpatched to him, with this mortifying concef- fion. The matter was become too ferious to be trifled with. We had the evidence of our own eyes, to defpair of the poffibility of the veffel's efcape, without a pilot; nor could we aniwer for the blood, which might be fpilled through a fruitlefs obilinacy. In this r 39 ] . this awful interval I endeavored to collc^l myfelf fo, as to meet death with a becoming refignation. I breathed a prayer for the welfare of my friends, and can truly fay, that I fliould have died in peace with all mankind. But the greateft confola- tion which I found in this exigency, was derived from the fub- lime hymn that I before mentioned. I read it over with plea- fure, and felt my bofom filled with a prophetic confidence from the energy of the latter part ; which is fo analogous to the fitua- tion we were in, that I cannot refill tranfcribing it, though it is fo well known to perfons of taile. " Should Fate command me to the farthcfl verse Of the green earth, to diftant barbarous climes. Rivers unknown to fong j where firft the fun Gilds Indian mountains, or his fetting beam Flames on th' Atlantic illes ; 'tis nought to me : Since God is ever prefent, ever felt. In the void wafle as in the city full ; And where He vital breathes there mull be joy. When ev'n at laft the folemn hour fliall come. And wing my myftic flight to future worlds, I cheerful will obey ; there, with new powers. Will rifing wonders fing : I cannot go Where univerfal love not fmiles around, Suflaining all yon orbs and all their fons ; From feeming evil ftill educing good, &c." A full hour and more, did we rem/ain under the alarming cir- cumftances I have defcribed, before we obtained the fliadovv of a reprieve. The fire of the mulketry was ftill continued againfi: 1 the [ 40 3 . tlie veflel ; and the minifters of death flood over us, each feem- ing to have fingled out his prey, in a fixed pofture and a mute referve. At length our interpreter returned from his embafly to the vizier. He was accompanied by three Arabians of diftinc- tion, who were come to pledge their words for the fafety of ourfelves and veffel. The firft of thefe, was the general of the troops at Yambo; and the other two, were the chiefs of the Arab tribes, who had been fummoned to the vizier's afllftance. A writing was drawn up, and figned by them ; to the obferv- ance of which they fwore by their beards, the moft folemn oath that a Muflulman can take. The captain was now cited to the prefence of the viziei", to obtain a fimilar obligation from him. He Itaid only to drink a cup of coffee ; and brought back an hand- kerchief, which he had received, as a token of the rainifler's fin- cerity. Pledges of this nature among the Orientals, amount to the raofl ferious engagements. Whatever doubts we might entertain of their value, this was no feafon to exprefs them ; and we readily concurred in the captain's orders to the chief mate, to bring the vefTel into the harbor. We flated the matter to him, and furnifhed him with the afTurances which had been given us, for our general fecurity. The captain himfelf, harbored no fufpicions of their intention to plunder usj and I mufl own that I was of the fame opinion. There was nothing very im- probable in the vizier's floiy, now that we came to a right knowledge of it. This was the firft European veffel that had appeared on this part of the coafl -, and he had written to the Xerif, to know whether he fliould treat us as friends or not. It is not impofTible but he confidered us as fpies, who meant to pry into the poverty and weaknefs of the country. Given to deceit himfelf, he might have held our tale of a pilot, as fi£litious ; and our anchoring at the mouth of the harbor, as a fhallow [ 4t 1 a ftiallow artifice, through which he could clifcern. I would be as charitable in my conclufions, as a chriftian ought to be, but muft leave to the event, an explication of his condu6l. The good efFe6ls of our late corapliance were foon vifible. The troops were recalled from the beach, and our tremendous guefts withdrawn from our apartment. Hope once more dawned in our bofoms; and the difappointed looks of the ruffians, who retired without having earned the wages of iniquity, left us no room to doubt of their inhuman commifTion, The day was too far advanced to think of moving the velFel, as the channel into the harbour is very narrow. It was there- fore ftipulated, that a pilot fliould go on board at day-break, to fetch her in ; and that on her coming to anchor, her great and fmail guns, piftols and cutlafTes, fhould be delivered over to the cuftody of an officer, whom the vizier fliould appoint for that purpofe. This article was infifled upon by him, as the only means to quiet the minds of the inhabitants; who trembled for the fafety of the town, while the cannon were on board ; and could not conquer their fears of Europeans, who had arms of any kind in their polfefTion. This fhew of terror was, to be fure, a tacit compliment to the European name ; and we were at any rate content to fubfcribe to terms, by which alone we were ' permitted to return to the vefl'el. The boundary was pafled ; and we had no other refource, than to confide in people who held us in fubjeilion. We were heartily tired of being cooped up in a prifon, and wiilied to return to the veflel ; where we fliould at ^ leafl be rid of obfervance, and live agreeably to our own cufloms, although faddled v/ith the lofs of liberty. We fpent the evening far more cheerfully than ufual, and found the guard lefs watch- ful of our motions, fince the conclufion of the treaty. Our holl ' was particularly attentive to us -, and regaled us, for the firfl time, with a fupper. This is a meal almolt unknown in Arabia ; and G ' was [ At ] was confidered by us in the light of a friendly banquet. We re- ligned ourfelves, at our cullomary hour, to our carpets -, where our imaginations were again difturbed, by a review of the un- pleafing fcenes of the foregoing day. SUNDAY, nth May. This proved by far tlie mofl tedious day that we had pafTed in our confinement. We expected to have got on board to dinner, but were prevented by that indolent and perverfe difpofltion, which prevails among the Eaftern nations. At eight o'clock the pilot weighed the veffel's anchor, and before nine fhe brought up, within half a mile abreaft of the town. We now received a vifit from Mr. Walters, the chief officer, and were adveitifed by him of the particulars which I have before recited, refpedling the attack on the veiTel. Our thanks were juftly due to this gentleman, on whofe firmnefs and difcretion our lives had depended ; and I em- brace with pleafure, this public opportunity to declare our fenfe of his conduct. The captain gave him an order, for the de- livery of the arms to the vizier's officer, who now accompanied him in a boat to receive them. They were landed in great form. The fmall arms were lodged in the fort, and the cannon were mounted on a battery oppofite our vefTel. This was meant to in- timidate us ; though it was eafy to perceive, that a fingle dif- charge would reduce the wall to ruins. Our fwords were re- turned to us, with a compliment from the vizier; and we were in momentary expectation of permiffion to depart. But the little philofophy we poffefled, was yet to be exercifed ; and happy wa& he, who could the befl make a virtue of neceffity. Frequent were the vifits of our interpreter to the minifler in the courfe of this day : but no audience could he obtain. At noon he was retired to his liaram, where it was treafon to difturb him. [ 43 ] him. Now, he was engaged at dinner -, and now he had com- pany with him. As we faw every thing here through the me- dium of difcontent, we confidered thefe excufes as mere eva- fions of his word ; and fliould he fail in that part of the treaty, where our living on board the vefTel was fpecified, we had little reafon to expert his fulfilling the reft of it. Nay, the worft of their former fears recurred to fome of our party ; and though I was by this time pretty well reconciled to the malice of fortune, and did not torment myfelf by anticipating evils, I muft confefs, that appearances were not much in our favor. Our property, freedom, and lives, were in the hands of an imperious tyrant, who had fecured us by treachery, and might only be reftrained by fear, fi'om falfifying his engagements. And to this principle, by which his tribe are generally aftuated in political concerns, I trufted for our deliverance. The fails of commerce are ever bufy in this fea, and numbers of fmall veflels had arrived at, and departed from this port, during our fhort ftay. Should the vizier be inclined to keep the tranfadlion a fecret, his own reflexion muft fuggeft to him, that it muft needs tranfpire by a fea-con- veyance, fhould he have influence enough to bar the commmii- cation by land : and, whatever might be the tale he trumped up to deceive his mafter, the fa6l would at length reach him in its native colors. Such did I conceive to be the point, which was difcufled during this delay. I imaged to myfelf the minifter, fliut up with his creatures in dark cabal, and flattered myfelf that his intereft would teach him for once, to be honeft. Nor was I difappointed. The captain was fummoned to the pre- fence of the vizier, and returned with very gracious aflurances of prote6lion, and a licence to repair to the veflel. In the whole courfe of my life, I do not recoiled: to have received more ac- ceptable tidings. We could not have wiflied for a ftronger con- firmation of the minifter's fincerity -, and for my own part, I G 2 felt . [ 44 ] felt a certain confidence in the thoughts of being on board, al- though we were deflitute of arms, to prote6l us againft vio- lence, and there was a guard of foldiers to be ftationed in the veffel. But fo preferable is the notion of what we term bur home, to that of a foreign place, that even in the midft of danger and diftrefs, we derive comfort from the partiality, and find fomething therein, to flatter and to confole us. The fan was juft finking in the bofom of the deep, when we put off from the fliore. We had taken a very cordial leave of 'our hofpitable fliaik, and invited him to vifit us frequently on board, when we obferved the ladies of his family were aflembled to grace our departure. The old man's houfe was one of the largeft in the town, and furrounded on three fides by the fea : and the windows were now crouded with females, who waved to us with their handkerchiefs, unperceived by thofe be- low. The generofity of the fair fex might have atoned for the inhumanity of the men of Yambo, had we been able to benefit by their good-will. But what arms could they afiail our perfe- cutors with, whofe hearts were proof to the irrefiftible violence of female tears ? and what hope could we derive from their gentle interpofition in a Mahometan region, where petticoat-intereft is at the loweft ebb ? Still be the tenets of this abfurd faith con- fined to defart climes, and an ignorant race ! Let them expand themfelves through the Numidian wafte, and let the unlettered Arab cherifli them in his mind ! Never will they get footing in more enlightened lands ; never will they ufurp the poliflied breaft, which acknowledges the foft empire of womankind, and rejects all attempts to depreciate her worth, as tlie diftates of iTialice, folly, and pride ! The evening was fpent in a more agreeable manner, than we had of late experienced. We enjoyed our own cuftoms with double fatisfaftion, fince we had known the want of them ; and our ' [ 45 ] our minds were relieved from a load of fufpence, with which they had been opprefled. We had obtained the vizier's leave to write to our friends at Judda ; and we retired to our beds, with the pleafing expectations of being foon redeemed from captivity, by the good offices of our countrymen with the Xerif. MONDAY, i2th May. The captain this morning wrote a ftate of our cafe to captain Anderfon ; who he knew was at Judda, with a fliip in his charge, belonging to the nabob of Arcot. He entreated him to repre- fent our wrongs to the Xerif of Mecca, and to demand our im- mediate releafe, under pain of the refentment of the Englifli. This letter was fent to the vizier by his dehre, that he might in- clofe it in his packet. To guard againft the double-dealing of a man fo well known to us, we had the precaution to write a duplicate of this letter. This was folded up, and directed after the Arabic fafliion, by our interpreter j who fecretly delivered it to a pafTenger in the boat, that waited to carry the vizier's dif- patches to Judda. I have faid, that there was a fhip at Judda in the fervice of the nabob of Arcot, and that our captain had thought proper to declare the Adventure to be his property. It is not to be in- ferred from this, that the nabob is a maritime power, or is aim- ing to extend the commerce of his fubje6ls by an attention to naval affairs. The fafl is quite the reverfe. The trade qf India wholly exifts in the fpirit and induftry of the Englifh. While their vefTels are exploring the iflands that border on the Pacific ocean, and return with a freight that renders our fettlements the mart of oriental produflions, a fliip or two is fcnt yearly to Judda by the nabob of Arcot. Thefe velTels, indeed, carry a cargo, and import in exchange, the produces of Arabia. But this is [ 46 ] is the captain's care. The only benefit which the nabob looks for, is the prayers of two or three hundred pilgrims, who are tranfported at his expence, to perform their vows at the mofque of Mecca ! his fhips were fo crouded this feafon with thefe idle mendicants, that through the nabob's intereft with the owners, we had the company of above twenty of them in our vefTel. This was an honor we were by no means ambitious of; and from which we readily difengaged ourfelves at Mocha, where they were landed to profecute their journey in the beft manner they co\ild. The abufe of reafon in thefe ufelefs undertakings, is the leaft evil to be complained of. They are fuch an encouragement to idlenefs, and fo deftru6live to the welfare of a country, where thoufands of the inhabitants are feduced from their families and habitations by a fanatic call, that we may confider their tolera- tion as one of the ruinous principles of a Mahometan govern- ment. We have had an opportunity of obferving the effe6l, which thefe pilgrimages have upon the manners and difpofitions of thofe engaged in them. A froward fpirit and a brutal beha- vior, mark the herd of thefe pilgrims. And we have been affured from good authority, that their mutinous deportment rifes fometimes to fuch a pitch, that the captains of the fhips are obliged to put them in irons, for the prefervation of them- felves and crew. The occurrences aboard the Adventure being as unvaried, as may be imagined in a veiTel at anchor, I will omit the recital but of fuch days, as produced any particular events -, which may be ufeful in curtailing a journal already, I fear, too prolix to efcape cenfure. If we were uneafy at the reftraint we were un- der, we had no reafon to complain of fenfual entertainment du- ring th3 term of our detention. We were plentifully fupplied with provifions and vegetables, at an eafy rate i and Apicius him- felf. [ 47 ] felf, might have taken a voyage to the Red- Sea, to have feafted on the delicious fifh with which the harbour of Yambo abounds, without the leaft derogation to the merits of the lamprey of Baiac. MONDAY, 19th May. Our patience was pretty nearly exhaufted by this time. But on the evening of this day, we were permitted to wait on the vizier, after many vain foUcitations, to learn how foon we might expedl our releafe : the time appointed by him to obtain anfwers from Mecca, being expired. We went afhore about five o'clock, and were received by him In greater ftate, than at our firfl audience. The room was full of armed men ; and we could not but impute this ufelefs pre- caution, to the terrors of a bad confcience, which views every thing with a fufpicious eye. The evident alteration in the vizier's countenance and behavior, which were now marked v/ith in- quietude and referve, in fpite of his efforts to conceal them, con- vinced us of his having repented the ftep he had taken. He made feveral enquiries concerning the power and commerce of the Englifh in the Eafl. Nor was there occafion for our mag- nifying their influence, to awaken his fears. He feemed veiy attentive to the defcription of our fhips of force j and could not help exprefTnig his furprize, when our interpreter told him, that there were three men of war at Suez. As he was in an inquifitive mood, we would not mifs the opportunity to imprefs him with fentiments, that might ferve to regulate his future conduft. But his pride at length, got the better of his timidity. For in the courfe of our converfation, when the alliens of the Portugueze in this fea, and their fettlements on this coaft, were brought on the carpet, he informed us, that the Arabian hiftorians took notice. [ 43 ] notice of them ; and added, with an air of triumph, that the Portugueze were expelled Arabia by the great Sultan Selim. We were civilly difmifled by the minifter, with hopes of hourly intelligence from Mecca, and an invitation to take a view of the town, if agreeable to us. As there was a full hour to fun-fet, we readily embraced the occalion to fatisfy our curiofity, and to ufe a little exercife, of which we had been fo long deprived. We had an officer to attend us, befides two foldiers who had accom- panied us from the veffel. And we found this guard neceflary, to keep off the rabble that purfued us in our walk. The firfl arrival of a Cherokee Indian in Europe, could not have begotten half the wonder that our appearance did here. If the commonalty of Europe are not more mannerly, they are at leaft better in- formed than the rude Arab. Bred up in utter ignorance of other countries, and bigotted to the prejudices of illiberal do6lrines, he is at a lofs to account for the produclion of a Chriflian, whom his religion teaches him to hold in abhorrence and contempt. But if the rough minds of the men are hurried away into thefe ab- furdities, I mull once more bear witnefs to the moderation of the Mahometan females, who plainly evinced to us, that their bofoms were m.ade of " penetrable fluff." As we paffed through the flreets, the windows and terraces of the houfes were filled with women, who were infpired with' no illaudable curiofity to behold the flrangers. They neither treated us with fcorn, nor followed us with curies, like the favage throng beiow; but by their eagcr- nefs of obfervation, and attempts to engage our attention, be- trayed the fecret fymptoms of approbation. Nay, the facred thirfl of admiration, fo predominant in the fex, was not quenched in their breafls. We obferved many vails drop, as if by accident, as we paffed beneath their owners faces, which were overfpread with a vifible confufion, and verified the poet's idea 2 of zed in. and Is diately e Ara- 1 con- nation, eakers, 1 navi- tie has >, with which me to critical ly be a em on ons of e date- >f fand. diftant ; beau- degree. 1, feem of rude polity, nature t in fa- to the other. /'■V/r (/, ^^iiA <^X^^^ .JC/* ^ti^jCi^- .^u^ [ 49 ] of Mufidora's confolation in her diflrefs, at being furprized in. a naked fituation by her lover : " Ev'n a fenfe Of felf-app roving beauty ftole acrofs Her bufy thought." Yambo is fituated in the latitude of 24° 10' north, and is the port, from which the communication is more immediately carried on with Egypt. It is the general refort of all the Ara- bian veiTels that ply on this fea ; and has a very fafe and con- venient haven for their proteftion, in bad weather. Its fituation, behind an almofl uninterrupted chain of fhoals and breakers, has hitherto fecluded it from the knowledge of European navi- gators. But the charm is now broken -, and as fortune has thrown it in our way, I have annexed a view of Yambo, with the foundings of the harbor, taken from an aflual furvey, which Mr. Walters, chief officer of the Adventure, permitted me to copy from his draught. This will not only explain the critical fituation that our vefTel was in during the attack, but may be a guide to future mariners, whofe evil ftars may throw them on this inhofpitable fliore. The coaft here is infinitely more barren than the environs of Mocha, the foil being too ungrateful to produce even the date- tree or furze-bufh, and is throughout a fhining expanfe of fand. The eye meets with no interruption, until it reaches the diftant mountains, which bound the joylefs profpe<a:. But if the beau- tiful be wanting here, the fublime exifts in no fmall degree. The mountains in the more remote parts of the world, feem particularly appointed by Providence, to be the refidence of rude ■ and flraggling nations, unconnected by the laws of civil polity, and unambitious of rambling beyond the limits which nature has prefcribed them. The coaft of Arabia is an evidence in fa- vor of this remark. The interior parts, from oik end to the 11 other. I 5^ J <)tfier; exhibit what Shakefpear emphatically calls, " Heaven- kiffing hills," and the mountains behind the town of Yambo, rival, in height, the American Andees, or the Caucafus of Afia. This reftraint, perhaps, has been the caufe of as extraordinary a revolution in the face of things, as the world has feen. Ma- homet kindled the flame, that' under the Caliphs, ftirred up the Arabs to break" from their dark' recefles. Like the fearful emptions of Etna or Vefuvius, they burft upon the aflonifhed nations, and fpread dcfolation far and near. But the calamity- is paft, though its effefts ftill remain. This deflroying race are retired within their barriers again ; there to prey upon each other, tifitil time fhall ripen tliem for another grand event. FRIDAY, 23d May. Four days are now elapfed fince our vifit to the vizier, and no intelligence is come from Mecca. The year is nearly half-est- pended, and we have not performed the half of our joui*ney tb Europe. Befides, we have the uncomfortable profpe6l before us, of being obliged to- travel in the heats of fummer through Egypt. This idea was particularly aggravated by the fcorching wind, that blew to-day from the land. It was well for us, that we had been feafoned for this attack, by the land-winds fo re- markable on the coaft of Coromandel, or elfe the air would have been intolerable, and our blood been inflamed by the violence of" the heat. Fevers would have been no eligible companions, to eonftitutions, that had been expofed to the effefls of a long voy- age, and in want of a furgeon, to adminifler relief to them. But it pleafed God, that we fhould maintain om* healths in the midfl of our diftreffes, and experience a fignal mark of his protec- tion, in the hands of our enemies. To add to the difagreeablenefs of our fituation, our guard was: r 5^ 1 was this day doubled upon the vefTel. The fails had been taken down to be mended, on her coming into the harbor; and though the topmafts were ftruck, and her yards lowered down, the vizier excepted at our offering to replace the fails on the yards. He pretended to be apprehenfive of our departure, and fent formally to demand our fails. The captain was juftly nettled at this mef- fage, which he could not but confider as a wanton infult. He pointed out to the vizier's officer, the impoffibility of the veffel's efcape. For not to mention the unprepared ftate (he was in, the wind conflantly blew into the harbor, and there was a ne- ceffity for a pilot to carry her out. In truth, we were as much in their hands, as if the veffel had been drawn afhore. The captain, therefore, defired him to inform his mafter, that if he wanted the fails, he mult fend people to fetch them, as he would not voluntarily give them up. This fliew of refolution proved a check on the prefumption of this haughty bafliaw, who with- drew his demand ; but at the fame time, contrived to torment us with the company of the additional guard I have mentioned. The wind did not lofe its rage when the fun went down, but was fo parching the whole night, as to oblige me to quit the deck, where I had taken up my lodging for the fake of coolnefs, ever fmce our return to the veilel. But this, to our great joy, is the only land-wind we felt here ; which, from its direftion and burning heat, probably traverfed the great defart, which extends from the Red-Sea to the coaft of Paleftine, ere it fpent its fut:y upon us. S U N D x-^ Y, 25th May. Many camels have come in from the coimtry within thefe two days, but bring no news for us. Thefe creatures are loaded with fruit and vegetables for the town ; and with fkins of water, H 2 which [ 52 ] which they fetch from the valhes, for the ufe of the inhabhanfs, who can procure no water here, but what the heavens fuppfy them with..'-^t generally rains about once in two years in Ara- bia Petrea ; and then not a drop is loft, which can be caught by the natives who live on the fea-coaft. They prcferve it veiy carefully in large refervoirs, and make an article of trade of it,, which, however, is fold at a moderate rate. We have drank no- thing but rain-water fince our arrival, and find It very whole- fome and palatable ; although fome was brought us, which the old fliaik declared to be ten years old. Whether he may have exaggerated the age of it or not, it is certain, that they have lit- tle or no rain in this country. But the want of it is amply fup- plied by the heavy dews that fall at night, and make the ground appear as if moiftened by a fliower. Thus is the vegetable brought to perfeflion, thus are the trees fupplied with nevef- . failing fruit, and the vallies covered with eternal green. ■"A caravan arrived this forenoon from Medina, which is but two- days Journey from hence. This was the firft I had feen, arid though it confifted but of 4 or 500 camels, I muft confefs my- felf to have been much ftruck with the grandeur and novelty of the light. We difcerned it from afar, moving onwards with a quick though folemn pace, and as it paffcd near the beach, we could diftinguifh with our glafles the economy of the whole. The major part of the camels were loaded with merchandize, and the reft carried the travellers and the principal camel-drivers. Xhe fun was in his meridian, and not a cloud obfcured the hea- vens, nor a breath difturbed the furfaceof the deep. The nativ.^s were retired to the inmoft recefles of their habitations, and not a beaft was feen abroad, fave the patient camel, that now braved the fiery ray, and marched with fteady fteps, beneath the united prefTure of hunger, thirft, and heat ! Wliile the wooden bark ploughs the deep, and wafts from ftiore to ftiore the produce of I each [ 53 ] each clime, this living veflel traverfes the pathlefs wafte, fraught with the precious treafures of the Eaft. A caravan of cannels ex- ploring the wilds of Arabia, witli nothing in vie\^ but fand and Iky,- and conducted by the planets to its defired haven, may well be likened to a fleet of veffels, which are not more ufeful in their way, or wonderful in their ftruclure. As the fhip alone can outlive the feas, in which the weaker boat muft perifli, fo is the camel peculiarly adapted to a region, in which no other clafs of beafts could bear fatigue. He too experiences the chance of fublunary things. His mighty ftrength, his dauntlefs heart fink beneath the whirlwind's rage, and like the towering fhip, which winds and waves afTail with ceafelefs fury, he yields at length to inevitable fate. <n QuF expe6tations were wound up to the higheft pitch this evening, by the return of the boat which carried our packet to Judda. But thefe were foon let down by the information of our interpreter, whom we had fent to the vizier to learn the news. The boat he found had not waited for anfwersj but we had reafon to expeft them before now by land. The return of the boat in fo fhort a time, was however a matter of confolation, as it evinced the poflibility of our getting to Suez, though th-e wind is contrary for the greateft part of the day. TUESDAY, 27th May. We obferved two camels travelling with uncommon expedi- tion towards the town, yefterday evening, and flattered ourfelves with the thoughts of their bringing our difpatclies. Nor were we deceived. The vizier fent for our interpreter, to acq.uaint us, of his having juft received orders concerning us, which he would communicate in the morning. This fliort delay was mor- di siorft c . tifying ( 54 ] •tifying enough, but we had long learnt to have recourfe to pa- tience, as the only remedy in our prefent fituation. The craft and deceit of thefe people are equally great and inexplicable. To lye for the fake of falfehood, and to over- reach in matters of no moment, are paradoxes peculiar to the Arabians. Were the enthufiafts in vice to think, that, like vir- tue, it is its own reward, the conduct X)f the vizier would not need a comment. But, why he fhould conceal orders which he •muft fubmiffively obey, or trifle with our anxiety when we are at his mercy, is beyond the reach of thought to fathom. We wait- ed this whole morning in expedlation of a fummons, according to his voluntary promife. Difappointed in this, we fent our in- terpreter to befiege his gate in the afternoon, who at dufk, re- turned with an appointment for an audience the next morning, but with no manner of apology from the minifter, for his ex- traordinary behavior. We bore the flight with a good grace; and in the height of our charitable fuggcfliions, framed excufes for his neglect, and were fanguine fnough to believe, that the morrow v/ould put an end to our fufpence. But we knew not the race we had flrumbled upon. Our dealings had been hi- therto confined to people, who have fettled principles of a6lion : and, whether fpurred on by intereft or guided by fear, we were fenfible of what we had to expect from the natives of India. But here judgment is at a fl:and. No penetration can unravel the mazes of inconfifl:ency, no reflexion account for the fudden fl:arts of barbarous pride ! WEDNESDAY, 28th May. This day was pafled, like the foregoing, in vain applications and idle repinings. Nay, theinfult was aggravated, by the vizier's 9 refufing [ 5S I refufing even to fee our interpreter. — He endeavored, it Is true, to fweeten the bitter potion, by pleading bufinefs as the reafon.. But w^e were by this time, too well convinced of his infincerity, to fwallow the excufe with our ufual facility. Our ftate was now more deplorable than ever. The arrival of a difpatch from Mecca, had produced nothing in our favor -, and we beheld the period which we had afligrted to our detention, efcape, without difclofing the fainteft gleam of hope. If fuch were the clouds which obfcured our immediate- prof- peft, how were our imaginations fitted to encounter the fcene which approached ; worked up as they had been by a feries of complicated villainy, to apprehend the utmoft malice of man- kind ! We had fupped as ufual, and fome of our company were retired to their cabbins, when a neport was made to the ofEcer upon watch, that there was a boat along-fide of the vefTel. I happened to be on the quarter-deck, and was ruminating on$ the flrangenefs of the circumftance at fo late an hour, when fe- veral armed men approached us without ceremony, and imme- diately joined their comrades, who commonly mounted guard on the aftermoft part of the deck. Their appearance was as muclr a matter of furprize to our ftated guard, as to ouifelves. And alt we could gather from them, by dint of repeated inquiry, was, that they had orders to remain on board the vefTel u itil day-break. It is generally allowed, that an air of myftery renders the moft trivial incident of confequence, as every obje(5t looks larger, that is feen through a mift. At this moment the alarm was given, that there was a guard-boat on each bow ; whereas, we had heretofore had the company but of one. Wearied out with a fucceffion of difappointments, and impreffed with the mofl un- favorable ideas of the people we v/ere among, it is no wonder that we gave way to conjeftures, by no means to the honor of the vizier's principles. We had too great confidence in the com- mercial [ 5^ ] mercial conneflioiis between the Englifli and the Xerif, to fuf- pe£t that any harm would befall us by his diie<5lions. But on the other hand, the minifter might be endeavoring to foment the prefent difference. This was the deepeft ftroke we had ex- perienced in the delperate game which he had been playing, and was not to be folved by any maxims of policy. His intents were evidently deep and unfriendly ; but the hue of them was not clearly to be difcerned. Had they been murderous, there was no occafion for the farce, which he had been playing. For, what rational creature is fo abandoned to humanity, as wantonly to deftroy thofe who have never offended him, or lengthen mifery, which it is his intereft to (horten? our lives and property had been long at hisdifpofal; and it was not reafonable to imagine, that ^ he would delay the fentence which would fecure the prize, had he authority or inclination to execute it. We had been witneffes to fo many inllances of his folly and caprice, that it was not im- probable, but this adventure would terminate without prejudice,, to us. But it mull be confefled, that no little fhare of refolu-j ti.on is neceffary for the fupport of fuch argument, where reafon is too weak to oppofe the evidence of our fenfes, and reflexion is loll in the tumult of the fcene before us. Our minds by de- grees refumed their wonted calm, and we retired to reft, with no other fafeguard b^t tlie eye of a beneficent God, without whofe regard there is no prote6lion for the fleeping monarch, fur- rounded by his guards, THURSDAY, 29th May. The dawn of day delivered us from thefe unwelcome guefts, conformably to their report ; and the vizier, afhamed, as we lup- pofe, of the tranfa6lion, had the grace to pretend an utter igno- rance of it. On our remonftrating againft the violation of the compa^ ' [ 57 J corr.pa6l between us, he laid the blame on - the general of the troops, who had committed fome miflake in ifluing orders relative to the veffel. This proof of his being yet fenfible of fhame, gave us hopes of an amendment in his behavior, and encouraged the captain to prefs the vizier for another interview for himfelf only, which he now condefcended to grant. Though produ6live of no real advantage, we derived great confolation from it, as the captain fairly extorted from him the reafon of his late referve. He acknowledged, that his inftruflions concerning us were come ; but that nothing could be done in the affair, until the arrival of the Shawbunder, or captain of the port of Judda, whom the Xerif had ordered to Yambo, to adjuft the terms of our departure. We had long fufpe^led, that the vizier's defigns were to extort heavy duties from the veffel ; and were pleafcd to hear, that thofe duties were to be regulated by the port of Judda; which, though unreafonable enough, will certainly come more within the bounds of equity and juflice, than the confcience of this Arab might have demanded. ^ As the name of the Xerif of Mecca fo often occurs in this narrative, and as his power and influence ought properly to be afcertained, for the elucidation of the part he bore in our deten- tion, I will endeavor to throw fuch light upon them, as oppor- tunity and inquiry have afforded me. The Xerif of Mecca is, in mofl refpe6ts, on the footing of the Pope in the earlier days of Chriftianity. He is fovereign Pontiff of the Mahometan church, and a temporal as well as fpiritual prince. Since the extin6lion of the Caliphs, whofe apparent fucceffor he is, he holds his dominions as fiefs to the Turk ; and is more indebted to the zeal of fuperftition than to the terror of his arms, for the fupport of his dignity. A prodigious de- cline indeed, from the importance of thofe Caliphs, who reigned the mafters of the Eaflern world, and fhook the neighboring I kingdoms .T'of^ f.'.'.'O -'rf ^o 5?{rl f'f(: r.' -■.■;f, kingdoms of the north with dire dlfmay ! But {hrunk as he is within the Umits of a province, where the Mahometan great- nefs firft originated, the Xerif, in two inftances, exceeds the Popes in the fuUeft plenitude of their power. His honors are hereditary ; to poflefs which, he muft prove his defcent from the Prophet : and the extent of his influence reaches as far beyond that of the Popes, as the perfuafion of Mahomet beyond the Papal tenets. The remoteft corners of the Eaft pay homage to his title. The way-worn pilgrim ceafelefs toils from Teflis* towers or Mefopotamia's wafte, to add his little mite to the trea- fures of Medina's temple ; while Afiatic princes, fubahs of Ind, and fultans of the Spicy Ifles, which weftward bound the Southern ocean, enrich the Prophet's fhrine with gems and gold. The large fum of money which our veffel brought for the fer- vice of the Mofque, as a peace-offering from the nabob of Arcot, on the deceafe of his daughter, is a corroborating evidence of the enthufiafm of MufTulmen. It amounted to one lack and an half of rupees, which is near ;^. 20,000 flerling, and was the gift of a prince, whom the world need not be told is fo in.- volved in debt, as not to require this drain to exhauft his mort- gaged revenues. iio The territories of the Xerif lie in the heart of Arabia, and are about three hundred miles long and one hundred broad. Befides the cities of Mecca and Medina, to which the caravans annually bring the produce of diftant countries, his revenues are con- fiderably augmented by the commerce, that is carried on with his ports of Yambo and Judda, by the vefTels of Africa and India. Whatever fan6lity he may pretend to, or indifference to the con- cerns of this world, like other hypocrites in religion, he prefers his own intereft to that of his Maker ; and ufes his name as an inftrument, to advance his own dignity and riches. The cara- vans, which profelTedly fet out on a piotis journey to Mecca, are 5 more [ 59 ] more encouraged by this Pontiff for die fake of his own glory, than that of the Prophet ; as the vakiable goods they convey, and the high duties impofed upon the dekided merchants, fufficiently atteft. But what perfuafion is there among the frail race of inankind, which is not open to perverfion, and liable to be dif- graced by abfurd rites, and idle ceremonies ? the divine purity of the Chrillian religion could not preferve its ftream from be-. ing tainted, by the machinations of prieftcraft, and the intem- perance of zeal. Nor is there much difference in the folly of the belief, that founds falvation on a pilgrimage to the temple of Mecca, or to the houfe of my lady of Loretto ! The prefent Xerif is a youth under twenty years of age, and, vi^hat is remarkable on account of his family, he is as black as a negro. He has been feen by fome of our countrymen, but this is not a common thing, as he feldom ftirs from Mecca, to the neighborhood of which place, and Medina, no approach is allowed to Chriftians. Nay, to fuch a degree has their con- tempt of us arifen, that neither at Mocha, Judda, nor Yambo, will they fuffer a Chriftian to go out at the gate, which looks towards Mecca. One of his Majeffy's frigates was at Judda laft year, to fettle fome articles of trade between the different na- tions ; when the Xerif himfelf made an excurfion to Judda, on purpofe to pay a comphment to the Britifh flag. He went on board the frigate ; and, to teftify his fatisfaclion at the a6livity of the failors, and the difcipline of the marines, he left a very princely gratuity to be diftributed among them. On thi^ ap- pearance of good-will in the Xerif towards the Englifli, we rely for redrefs in the injury we have received ; though the courfe of juffice may be delayed, by the mifreprefentations of the knaVe, into whofe clutches we have unfortunately fallen. I 2 SATURDAY,. [ 6o ■] SATURDAY, 31ft May. ^ This morning we were delighted with the fight of two boats fo the fouthward. As thev came into the harbor, we leamt from our guard, that the fhawbunder of Judda was in the foremoft. But this funfhine was foon clouded by a meffage from the fliore, which advifed us that the perfon we expefted, was in a boat behind. We, who were bound for Europe, thought this a good opportunity to folicit the vizier for our departure to Suez, which he might, on certain conditions, wifh to grant us, before the arrival of another officer to fliare in the profit, which he evidently meant to make of us. With his permiffion, there- fore, my three fellow-travellers and myfelf paid him a \ifit in the afternoon, when we were received with his wonted polite- nefs. We prefi'ed him for the immediate provifion of a boat, but he pretended that nothing could be done until the fliawbunder's. arrival, except the order for a boat to be ready at a minute's warning. He concluded this aflurance wdth a caution againft the impofitions of his people, and a requeft not to give any prefents, but to fuch as came exprefsly by his order. This was too plain to be mifunderftood ; and after our return to the veflel, we judged it expedient to tender this minifler a bribe. We found from long experience, that he was not to be moved by the force of words, and accordingly prepared a prefent, wherewith to melt his unrelenting breafl. It confifted of a diamond ring, a fine fliaul, and a piece of gold fluff for a drefs ; and was an offering, rather extorted by neceffity, than fuitable to the cha- radlers which we affumed. This we fent him by our interpreter, and had the pleafure to learn that it was gracioufly received. We met in return, with a repetition of thofe afTurances of his protection, which he had before lavifhed upon us. I cannot; [ 6i ] I cannot help relating here a curious circumftance of the di- vers of Arabia, whofe fkill exceeds that of any others which I have read of. The mafter of a boat, which was jiifl returned from Tor, offered to recover the anchor, v/hich I nicntioneci to have been loft by our veiTel, while fhe was at the entrance of the harbor. As it lay in fixteen fathom water, the captain gave little credit to the fellow's pretenfions, but was willing to try the experiment, as much from a motive of curiofity as any otlier. The diver was to earn but a third of the fixed reward, fliould his attempts mifcarry. He brought his boat to the veflel to-day, and accompanied our long-boat, with an officer on board, to the mouth of the harbor. And from this officer I had the follovying particulars. When they came to the fuppofed place, the diver went down •in fixteen fathoms, with no other preparation than a weight to -his feet, and a piece of wood on his noftrils, to prevent his fetching his breath in the water. There was a rope faftened to his arm, by which he gave notice when he wanted to be drawn up. At the fignal made, he was run up by his comrades with amazing celerity. He informed the officer that he had feen .the anchor at fome diftance ; and takmg a rope of fufficient ftrength to hold it, he dived again to an equal depth, and tied it to the ring of the anchor. Upon weighing it, however, it turned out not to be ours, but a large grapnel belonging to the annual Judda veficl, which failed from hence fome months ago. After this difappointment, to make good what he had alTerted of tiis 4killi the fellow went down in tv/o-and-twenty. fathoms, thougli the wind began to frefhen, and the fea to be ruffied. He Itaid between two and three minutes under water, accord'mg to tfie watch of the gentleman prefent. Nay, after he came into the boat, this amphibious creature did not take the prefiuj^e from his noftrils for near a minute longer; and.appeapdjft^in ,^he '" leift; [ 62 ] leaft fatigued or difcompofed. He affirmed, that upon occafion, lie can dive fome fathoms deeper ; and in a calm day, can fee ten fathoms around him,- That he can walk about with great cafe at the bottom of the fea, and feparate branches of coral from the rocks, with an ax or a faw. As a proof of which, he pro- duced a large branch of coral, which he had taken out of a bay to the northward. I have a piece of this coral in my poffeffion. Anxious as he appeared to be for the recovery of our anchor, we have reafon to believe that the poor man had been forbidden by the vizier to get it; as he means to turn it to his own ac- count, after our departure. I am fenfible that the divers go to a great depth, in the pearl-fifheries in the Gulph of Perfia, where they are affifled by machines of various conflru<5lions : but fuch a marvellous inftance as I have related, of natural powers unaided by the efforts of art, fhould have died in filence for me, had it not fallen, in a manner, under our immediate obfer- vation. The only recreation we enjoy, is failing about the harbor in one of the fhip's boats. And this is rather connived at by our guard, than allowed of by the vizier, whofe orders concerning us ^^re very rigid. In the courfe of thefe cruizes, we have had oppor- tunities to make ourfelves well acquainted with the harbor, and to produce the plate which has been exhibited of it. But all our obfervations tended nothing towards our own enlargement. There is but one channel into the harbor, and the wind con- ilantly blows into it at this feafon. It is not, therefore, the lofs of our guns, or the prefence of a guard, that detains us. Defpair would furnifli us with arms to rid us of this obftacle, were the <ioor of efcape open to our veffel. MONDAY, [ 63 3 MONDAY, 2d June. This morning the long-expefted b6at brought in the fhaw- bunder of Judda. At nine o'clock he came aboard the Adventure, and delivered our captain a letter from the Xerif himfelf, and another from Captain Anderfon. The firft letter contained per- milTion for the captain to go where he pleafed, on paying the duties of the port of Yambo j an impofition which is levied on all veffels that enter the Xerif's ports, whether they difpofe of their cargoes or not. If he preferred going to Judda, no duties were to be paid at Yambo ; but in that cafe, the vefTei was to be given as a fecurity, into the charge of the Xerif's fervants i and the captain and his officers were to proceed to Judda, on a boat which fliould be provided for them. The vizier was like- wife directed to difpatch the packets, and the gentlemen who had the care af them, in a proper boat to Suez. Such was the fubftance of the Xerif s orders. They were in fome refpects, iinreafonable enough, and betrayed a greater regard to his own benefit, than a readinefs to do us juftice. But our fituation con- fidered, it will be eafily believed, that we were more fatisfied than other wife, at the receipt of thefe tidings. The contents of Captain Anderfon's^ letter were not lefs agree- able. After condoling with us on our misfortune, he tells us, that the Swallow floop of war, vv^hich had been on a voyage to Suez, was juft arrived at Judda. That on learning our fitua- tion, her commander, Captain Panton, had demanded fatisfac- tion of the government, for the infult that had been offered to the Britifh flag. It was plain from his letter, that the Xerif was unacquainted with this demand, when his inftru6lions rela- tive to us, were forwarded to Yambo. But we doubted not that our [ 64 ] our wrongs would be redrcffed, by the prefence of a naval oflicer, of the known fpirit and humanity of Captain Panton. Captain Bacon and the fupercargoes of the Adventure, would foon have an opportunity of making a perfonal application to him at Judda, on this head. But the gentlemen bound for Europe, thought it expedient to join with me, in a reprefentation of the damages we had incurred, by the treachery of the Xerif s government. This letter we forwarded to Captain Panton by the hands of Captain Bacon ; and though no benefit may accrue to us from the refult, we fhall be fatisfied to hear that the infult is revenged, by the interpofition of the Britifti arms. Our profpeft of getting to England now recurred with ten- fold pleafure ; and we were not willing to lofe a moment in tak- ing advantage of the Xerif s permiflion. The interpreter was immediately difpatched to the vizier, to remind him of his pro- mife. He returned with a Nokidah, or mafter of a boat, whom this crafty minifler pretended to have fent us, that we might make our own terms with him. This modeft fellow had the confidence to alk us 700 dollars and a drefs, for the freight of his boat to Suez. I fay freight, as we were to find provifions, and even water, ourfelves. When the dire6l diftance be confi- dered, which fcarcely exceeds 150 leagues, and the boat itfelf be examined, which is without a deck, and not fo well found as a Cornifh fifliing-fmack, no one will pronounce the demand to be "within the bounds of moderation, though preferred by an Arab. But we were in abfolute want of the boat, and were fain to fee ourfelves cheated, with our eyes open. We found this convenient agent inflexible in his purpofe, and were glad to ftrfke the bargain at 650 dollars, the major part of which, we fhrewdly fufpecled, would go into the vizier's coffers. And this was the return which his gratitude fuggefled, for the prefent ivhich we made him ! but we were obUgcd to keep our fufpi- 3 cions cions and our complaints, equally a fecret. It was In the vizier's power to frame a thoufand delays in our undertaking, and con- fequently, our intereft to wink at an impofition, by which we fecured his proteflion. On thefe principles, therefore, .we agreed to give more for the hire of a boat, than fhe was intrinfically worth. And, happy to efcape from the fnare which befet us, we did not think our liberty dearly purchafed, at the price of being handfomely fleeced. When this weighty matter was fet- tled, the Arab retired, to give his employer the agreeable intelli- gence of his fuccefs, while we ferioufly prepared ourfelyes to turn a bad bargain to the befl account.. SUNDAY, 8th June. The laft week was employed in regulating the affairs of the vefTel. There was not the bell appearance of harmony between the vizier and the fhawbunder^ which operated to retard her difpatch. By fome blunder of the former, the cargo was or- dered afhore ; and though this procedure feemed to contradict the Xerif's commands, the captain could not difpute the plea- fure of the vizier. By the fliawbunder's reprefentation, however, the cargo was forthwith returned to the veffel; but a bale of cal- iicoes was miffing. This was undoubtedly embezzled by the vizier and his people, who floutly denied having received it, though oppofed by tlie teftimonies of the fupercargoes, and the officers of the Adventure. Two days were fpent in fruitlefs dif~ .putes on this fubje»5l ; and there is no pronouncing to what a length they would have been fpun out, had not a feafonabk- hint which the vizier dropped, finally decided them. He affefl- ed to declare, that as his honor was doubted, he muft infill upon things refling as they were, until jullice had been done to him at Mecca. There needed no more, to convince us of the abfur* KL dity [ 66 ] dity of perfeverance againft fuch a charaf^er. We were afcer- tained of his being capable of the blackeft actions ; and the cap- tain wifely refolved to forego his right, and give a receipt for the whole cargo. Thefe vexatious tranfa6tions detained my fellow-travellers and myfelf at Yambo, as the ved'el's departure and ours was to take place together. But every thing being now prepared for the pro- fecution of our coafting voyage, our debts at this place dif- charged, and the boat we had agreed for, having been exchanged for another, which the vizien, for reafons beft known to himfelf, pitched upon for us, we this afternoon obtained our audience of leave of this extraordinary perfonage. We were received with that politenefs and affability, which in minLfters of ftate, cover a multitude of imperfections. Thefe are the bright fides of po- litical characters, where an agreeable light is blended with the fliades that overcaft them. Had our knowledge of this man been confined to externals, we fliould have quitted Yambo, with the mofl favorable ideas of his difpofition. But the brutality of his conduct could not be foftened by the polifh of his manners, and the conviction of his treachery flafhed through the vail of a fmooth tongue and a winning addrefs. We were refolved, never- thelefs, to appear fatisfied of his fmcerity ; which, in truth, we now gave him more credit for, than fince our acquaintance com- menced. He had no longer any probable motive to amufe us ; and the Xerif's commands are reputed to be held too facred, to be fported with by his fervants. We took in good part, the wiflies he exprefTed for our fafe arrival at Suezj and received the paffport which he gave us for the fecurity of our perfons, with entire confidence in the virtue of its contents. We took our leave of the vizier, amid a profufion of high-flown compli- ments, which we had neither the capacity nor inclination to re- ;turn. The natives of the Eaft are fo habituated to this mode z of [ 67 ] of Ipeech, that well-turned compliments fall from their lips with inexpreflible readinefs. And the Arabian language is fo fu- perior in elegance to the reft, that this people, in other refpefts fo remarkable for their fimplicity, exceed all other nations in tlie delicacy of their expreffion, and the agreeable wildnefs of their images. MONDAY, 9th June. This has been a bufy, as well as a joyful day for us. On the eve of recovering our liberty, after a tedious and painful de- tention, like the birds who efcape the cage which with-held *them, and flutter abroad without a thought of the confequences, we only rejoiced over the prefent moment, unheedful of the toils we might fall into, or the dangers that might await us in coaft- ing a wild and unknown fhore, and, as the poet finely fays, •' with no other ftay fave innocence and Heaven." We could only provide againft obvious calamities. We were well fur- nifhed with fire-arms and ammunition, to guard againft open attacks, and with rice and water, to obviate the calls of hunger and thirft. But the friendftiip of Captain Bacon fet us above anfwering the mere neceffities of nature. He fupplied us with many articles, which might have been difpenfed with in the voy- age which we had undertaken, had we meant to have kept a ta- ble fuitable to our accommodations in an open boat. But he was willing that we ftiould be as well provided as his (hip would afford ; and we could not in juftice, refufe him the pleafure of crowning his genteel behavior during a four-months voyage, by this more material inftance of his attention. It will appear a myftery to people in Europe, who are obliged to pay extrava- gantly for a paflage from one kingdom to another, to learn that the commanders, in general, in the country fervice in India, K 2 think [ 68 ] think your entertainment fufficiently repaid by the pleafure of your company ; and are only lludious to render a paflage agreea- ble to you, which can no otherwife redound to their benefit, than what a liberal mind feels on the exertion of an hofpitable action. This remark is due to the gentlemen of a femce, which has been too much difparaged by the ill conduct of fome unworthy members. The chara6ler of Captain Bacon, and others that I could mention fiom experience, will more than atone for the defedion of the reft. I fhould not omit, among the reft of his favors, that he furniflied us with a lafcar, or mariner, who had fome knowledge of the Arabic tongue. It would be painful to conceive the difficulties, to which we might be reduced in the courfe of our journey, were not this man to be with us, to in- terpret our wants, and to give the people we dealt with, a more favorable idea of Chriflians. He is a Muffulman, and is likely to gain fome credit with thofe of his perfuafion. And yet v.e were on the point of fetting out, without any interpreter ; neither reflecting on poffible events, nor providing againft hu- man accidents. We fupped for the laft time, on board the Adventure ; and after taking a parting glafs, and a cordial leave of Captain Ba- con and the reft of our friends. Major Alexander, Lieutenant * * *, Mr. Hammond, and myfelf, attended by my European fervant, two flave-boys of the major's, one of Lieutenant * * *'s, and Ibrahim our interpreter, ftepped into the veflel's pinnace, and were prcfently conveyed to the boat, which we reached about ten o'clock at night. I would attempt to give the reader fome idea of the place we got into, but the defcription demands an higher coloring than my pencil can give it. If he can imagine, however, the fituation of four gentlemen, crouded together in a Iquare of about five feet diameter, with no defence from the noontide funs and midnight dews of the Arabian coaft, deprived of # iSaifUf ^ J * \^Jeral<w/v ) ^ ... -/. . [ 69 1 of the fmalleft exerclfe of their limbs, and condemned to the conftant fociety of the boat's crew, wholly at the c >^retion of a perfidious race, and with the profpe6l of a long and tedious cruize in an unknown fea — he may gather fome faint traits of the undertaking we were engaged in. As we fought the danger, there can be no vanity in fpeaking of it : as fomething more than an idle temerity, enforced the profecution of a voyage, the difficulties of which we were fufficiently apprized of. JOURNAL OF THE BOAT IMPOSITION FROM YAMBO TOWARDS SUEZ. TUESDAY, loth June. We were difturbed at day-break by the arrival of the nokidah, and pilot who is to navigate the boat, which, from the price we have paid for her, we have named the Impofition. They brought another Arab and three Abyffinian flaves with them, who made up her crew. And thefe are full fufficient to manage her. Could we confult our eafe before our fafety, we would willingly difpenfe with this addition to our numbers, which greatly ex- ceed the fize and convenience of our bark. We found no little difficulty, laft night, in providing for our repofe. Our chefts form a i'quare in the center of the boat, and my companions and I, each take up his lodging on his own cheft. Our fer- vants difpofed themfelves in fuch places, as they could obtain a footing upon ; but this increafe to our fociety, will reduce them to the neceffity of fecuring a poft for themfelves. 5 Wc [ 70 ] We weighed our anchor at 6 A.M. and ftood to the well- ward, with the wind at N. by W. But we had not got a league out, when the wind hauled round to N. W. This obliged us to run back again, and anchor at the mouth of the harbor, -"^ We had not been here long, when a boat pafled us, with Captain Bacon and his chief mate on board. They are bound for Judda, and we had but juft time to hail each other, and renew our wifhes for our reciprocal welfare. The wind will be fair for their boat, when they get clear of the harbor ; and their palTage promifes to be a fpeedy one, in proportion as the wind is unfavorable to us. The wind was ftrong all day from the N. W. In the even- ing we faw the Adventure, {landing towards us. There were but a few of her fails fet j and the Arabian pilots, to whofe charge ihe is committed by the Xerif s order, not being able to make any hand of it, brought her to an anchor again in the har- bor. This outfet proves the little knowledge of thefe pilots ; and it will be well if they cany her fafeiy to Judda, confidering the great difference between working her, and vefTels rigged for coafting voyages. I have annexed a chart of the Red-fea, from Yambo to Suez, that the reader may purfue the track of the boat as he reads the journal. WEDNESDAY, nth June. The nokidah and pilot flept upon the poop laft night. Our arrangement, therefore, is as follows. They have poffeffed them- jfelves of the ftern j my companions and myfelf occupy the mid- fpace, and our fervants and the crew keep in the fore-part of the boat. We have mounted a mulketoon upon tHe gunnel, and have our fufecs and piftols loaded. But as we are as yet, under [ 71 ] under the proteftion of the fort, we have not began to keep watch during the night. At 6 A. M. we weighed with the wind at S. W. and flood N. W. and ran about three leagues ; but the wind fuddenly veer- ing round to the weft and W. N. W. the pilot found he could not reach his intended anchoring-place, and, to our great mor- tification, ran back before the wind, to an opening between the rocks. Thefe rocks are a part of a reef, that extends from Judda to Cape Mahomet, and in which our vefTel was unfor- tunately entangled, when we were driven to the neceflity of putting into Yambo. We underftand there are particular places upon this coaft, which veflels are obliged to reach during the day, or elfe they muft, at times, run back to the birth which they left, for want of anchoring-ground. At one of thefe ftages, our boat brought to, at twelve o'clock, which is the propereft term that can be ufed on the occafion. As the boat approaches the reef, one of the crew jumps from the forecaftle, with a hook in each hand, and diving under the reef, faftens the hooks to the rocks, which are rendered porous by the water. The boat rides here in fmooth water, with her fides almoft touching the rocks. And here a veffel of confiderable burden, might ride ; as the water is fo deep, that we cannot find a bottom with fe- veral fathoms of rope. We took an obfervation at noon, and found ourfelves in the latitude of 24° 10' north. We have hitherto made little or no progrefs in our voyage; but are not to defpair, becaufe the winds have been contrary for two days. In the afternoon we faw the Adventure, ftanding to the fouthward. This denotes that fhe is clear of the harbor, but ihe feems to be going under a very eafy fail. THURSDAY, [ 72 ] THURSDAY, 12th June. The nokidah waded afhore during the night, in order to go to Yam bo for a fpar, to replace one which was carried away yefterday. He had not left us long, when a brifk breeze fprung up from the land, with which we might have made a ftretch to the northward, had our mafter been aboard. But this is only on a fuppofition, that thefe people work their boats in the night, which we have, indeed, but too much reafon to doubt. At day-break the wind fliifted to the N. W. fo that when the nokidah returned, he found that it was impoflible for us to ftir. He brought fome intelligence refpefting the Adventure. It feems that the Arabian pilots are fo unfkilful in the manage^ ment of a vefTel of her conftru6lion, that the fupercargoes and the officer who remain on board, are afraid of being caft away in the pafiage to Judda. They have already loft all her own anchors by their ignorance j and it is a great chance, if they fucceed better with the grapnels, which they have taken in, to fupply the lofs. The fituation of this veflel is very peculiar; She was reduced to her prefent diftrefs by the treachery of thefe barbarians j and is in danger of being wrecked by their ob- ftinacy, in not permitting Captain Bacon to take charge of her, when they carry her clear of the rocks. But vehgeance, no doubt, awaits the injured. This is not the firft time, that the Englifli flag has redrefTcd her fubjedls, even in this remote fea : and the hour perhaps will come, when the Xerif of Mecca will be forced to do juftice to the fufrerers on the fnow Adventuxe. About nine o'clock the wind changed to the fouthwarrd j but we could not take advantage of it, on account of the abfencc of fome of our company. Lieutenant * * * went aftiore at fix o'clock, on pretence of gathering famphire, and took Ibrahim our [ 73 ] our interpreter with him. We were a little furprized at their flay ; but when the wind became favorable, we difpatched a ma- riner into the country, to recal them to the boat. But how was our furprize increafed, when the meflenger returned, and informed us, that they were not to be found ! Various were our conjectures on this occafion. We at one time, fancied that they had wandered beyond their knowledge, and were gone towards the beach, by tracing which they muft at length find the boat. At another, we apprehended they had been furprized by the wild Arabs, and carried into flavery. The true caufe was the furthell from our thoughts. But fomething pofTefTed our nokidah to be- lieve, that the abfentees were gone to Yambo. Whether he had obferved Lieutenant * *" * 's difcontent at his fituation, and fuf- pe<5led that he was engaged in a bufinefs unfavorable to him, fo it was, the nokidah's penetration exceeded ours, and he de- termined to feek them at Yambo. It was about noon when he fet out for the town, which is about two leagues from hence ; and, that nothing might be wanting on our parts, to re- cover our friends, we diredted two mariners to take different routes in fearch of them, while we hoifted a fignal on our mainmaft, and difcharged our mufketoon repeatedly, in hopes of attra6ling theii' notice. At 3 P. M, the wind came about to the N. W* and blew from that point the reft of the day. Our mariners returned with as little fuccefs, as before. Our opi- nions now began to waver, and we fulpefted that Lieutenant * * * had taken fome extraordinary ftep. Ever fince our imprifonment at Yambo, his condu£l had been the reverfe to what we had known it. His prejudice againft the Arabs exceeded all bounds, and his apprehenfions of tliem feemed to have difordered his intellefts. He often exprefled fuch an abhon-ence of the voyage We' 'Were about to engage in, that we more than once prcfTed hinfi to for-'' bear accompanying us. We had obferved with concern," tH'at'* L he [ 74 ] he had betrayed fears for his life ever fince he entered the boat j and was always on the watch, while we llept in the fecurity which our fituation required. We were too near to Yambo, to expe6t danger from the country j and all refiflance would be vain, were harm intended us by the government. But the night before, he had declared, that our Arabs meant to murder* us at fupper. Then, that they had deferred it until midnight.- Thefe, and many other extravagancies which he committed, we attributed to the efFefls of diftruft, and contented ourfelves witii- laughing at them ; althoiTgh he frequently protelled, that he had overheard the Arabs debating on the manner of' our death's. The day thus pafl'ed over our heads^ while we labored under ^ weight of vexation and anxiety. We had miffed of as fair a wintV as could blow for us -, and were uncertain of the fate, which had befallen Lieutenant * * * and Ibrahim. At five o'clock we difcc- vei^ed camels and a guard of foldiers at a diftance, which actually turned out to be their efcort. Our looks mutually exhibited afto-- nifliment and confufion at this meeting. But we pitied the fitua- tion of our companion, and forbore to reproach him in the pre- fence of the guard. He feemed much agitated and fatigued, and- fpoke but little on his arrival. From our interpreter and the guard, we learnt the particulars of his expedition. It appears, that his dillruft of our Arabs had fo worked upon the mind of Lieu- tenant * * *, as to induce him to return, in a clandeftine man- ner, to the vizier of Yambo, and communicate his fufpicions; On their reaching the fhore, he artfully drew Ibrahim towards the town, and, on their getting about a mile, by threats and en- treaties, he perfuaded the fmiple fellow to accompany him. On their reaching the town, they were laid hold of by fome Arabs -, and carried, as they defired, before the vizier. They were re- ceived very politely by that minifter, and the complaint of Lieu- tenant * * * was fo far attended to, that. a guard was ordered to take [ 75 ] take the boat-people into cuftody. At this moment the nokidah arrived, and gave evidence of his innocence, by the relation of our behavior on the abfence of the accufer. The tables were now turned, and Lieutenant * * * was fent back to us, in the manner before recited. The vizier difpatched an Hindoo with him, to afliire us, in the Moor tongue, that we had nothing to fear from the boat-people, whofe lives ftiould anfwer for our fafety. We were obliged, in our own defence, to difown any knowledge of Lieutenant * * *'s intentions; and to thank the vizier for his candid behavior on this occafion. The guard then departed, with a gratification which we made them for their trouble. As accufations and repinings were equally vain, we determined among ourfelves, to be filent on this myfterious conduct of Lieutenant * * *, We, however, reprimanded Ibrahim very fe- verely, in his prefence, for the folly which he had been guilty of; and came to a general refolution, not to go on iliore on the continent, nor detain the boat for any one, who ventured to do id in future. After we went to bed, we obferved Lieutenant * * * go to the poop, and by. means of geftures, and the few words of Arabic of which he is mafler, hold a kind of difcourfe with the nokidah and pilot. He came to his fcrutoire once or twice, and we fufpe6l took out money. What he did with it, or what will be the iiTue of his unhappy turn of mind, we cannot determine. It was late when he laid down, and we have reafon to believe his reft is broken and unfound. FRIDAY, 13th June. Our boat got under fail at four o'clock this morning, with a light breeze from the land. Though Ihe is too large to row againft an head fea, we found the advantage of having oars on L 2 board. [ 76 ] board. The weather was fo moderate, we made ufe of them the greateft part of the morning. At nine A.M. the wind fhifted to the S. W. but proved very faint. We felt the rage of the fun to-day pretty feverely. While we are under fail, it is not polfible for us to put up a canvafs awning, with which we are furnilhed. But to advance quicker in our progrefs, we muft be content to be expofed in this manner. About 3 P. M. the wind came round to the favorite point, the N. W. which obhged us to run into fmooth water, and bring to, as before, betweea the breakers and the fliore ; from the latter of which we are about a mile diftant. The coaft here is rather low, but the mountains rife a few miles behind it. The fky was too hazy for us to take an obfervation at noon ; but by our reckoning, we have gained about three leagues to the northward in the laft run. Juft as the boat came to anchor. Lieutenant * * * 's infirmity plainly difcovered itfelf. We had been confirmed fince yefterday, in our fufpicions of his brain being touched. His appetite was gone, his looks were wild and difordered, and his converfation continually bordered upon madnefs. He told us, when the boat flood out to fea tliis morning, that the Arabs were carrying us there to murder us ; and, when Ihe flood into land, he changed his tone, and pronounced our deaths to be prepared for us here. We little regarded fuch flrange fancies ; but were alarmed much at his feizing his fword when we came to anchor, and bidding us to fland upon our defence. The Arabs were now juflly frightened at his extravagance, and we had much ado to perfuade him to lay by his fword. This circumflance had been overlooked, and we had determined only to keep a ftri6l eye on his conduft ; when the arrival of two boats, from the northward, in the cove we are in, opened a ftrange and unexpedled fcene. As they approached us, Lieutenant * * * betrayed the ftrongeft 9 fymptoms I 77 1 iymptoms of uneafinefs. He gravely bade us prepare for death 3 'b'and, unaccountably, made thefe new-comers privy to our fate. It was in vain that we affured him, they could have no intima- tion of any ill which was meant us ; ftrangers as they were, and accidental as our meeting had been. Such an unhappy prepof- feflion had he taken againft the Arabians in general, that no opinion, no reafoning of ours, could avail. We knew that he had but little knowledge of the Arabic language ; but every word ft' that had an affinity to thofe of wicked purport, was converted, by his diftempered imagination, into the very mifchief itfelf; as his infefted fight, in like manner, turned flicks into fpears, and knives into daggers. The ears of Ibrahim were open as well as ./his, and his ready apprehenfion of the language would have ad- :tii.vertifed us of danger, if any were at hand. It had been whifpered to us, that fome money had been given to our nokidah laft night ; and we were now not a little afto- -nifhed to find from Lieutenant » * * himfelf, that the fum was no lefs than y^ Venetians, which he had divided between the no- kidah and pilot, to fave his life. He lamented, however, that it was in vain ; for our deaths were fixed upon, and we fliould foon follow Captain Bacon and the gentlemen in the Adventure, who, he vehemently affirmed, had been maflacred fome days be- fore. To divert thefe ftrange thoughts as much as poffible^ a flave-boy of Major Alexander's played on the fiddle, while the Arabs in the other boats, joined us with their kinds of mufic. We had fupped, and were looking at feme fifh, which were play- ing about the boat, when Lieutenant * * * fuddenly fprang from his feat, with two fwords in his hand, and running to the ma-'' jor, gave him one fword to defend himfelf, and attempted to draw the other, as he faid his life was in danger, from a man near the mainmaft of the boat, who had a poniard in his hand. The boat was immediately filled with confufionj the crew erouded [ 78 ] crouded togetlier in the flern, and called out to the otiier boat, which pulhed away from us in hafle. The matter was too cri- tical to be trifled with; and the frenzy of our companion had become too confpicuous, to be palliated. He was accordingly feized, and difarmed by us ; and, in the fti'uggle, the major re- ceived a flight wound in the foot, from the other's fword. I We now began to be alarmed for ourfelves. The fl:range boats might judge from appearances, that we had hoftile inten- tions, and perhaps, attempt to fecure themfelves, in a manner not very agreeable to us. The nokidah of ours came to us, and pofitively declared, that he would not get under fail again, while Lieutenant * * * remained on board. It was to no pur- pofe that we offered to pledge our lives for the fafety of himfelf and crew ; and to keep a conftant watch on our: unhappy friend. The man was flartled at the mad freaks which had been committed ; and owned to us, that he thought our lives in equal danger with his own : as in his frantic fits. Lieutenant * * * would not be able to diflinguifli his friends from his imaginary foes. The reader may fuppofe that this inflnuation made no imprefllon upon us. Our repugnance in parting with our com- panion in fo melancholy a fituation, awakened all our elo- quence, and redoubled our efforts to keep him with us. For fome hours did we argue the matter with our nokidah and pilot, who had now joined him. But they remained deaf to our remonfl:rances. We found ourfelves reduced to the necef- flty of either foregoing our voyage, or complying with thefe fellows' demand, of defiring Lieutenant * * * to return to Yambo U43on one of the boats near us. This boat is afterwards to pro- ceed to Judda ; where he will find Captain Bacon, and be certain of being accommodated in his veflel. When we faw there was no alternative, but what had been popofed to us, we were fain to acquiefce, however fl:rong our 3 relu6lance [ 79 ] relu<5lance to fuch a meafure. But on a ferlous review of it. Lieutenant * * * 's intereft may have demanded it, as much as our own. The bufinefs we are engaged in, is of too great con- ffequence to be forgone ; and by his going to Judda, we are af- certained that he is likely to meet with the afliftance which his unfortunate cafe requires, from the furgeon of the Swallow floop of war. Whereas, by proceeding with us, his malady would daily encreafe, by the force o-f the terrors which he enter- tains of our Arabs. And fome months would perhaps elapfe before he could receive the advice of an European furgeon; The opportunity of removing him might never occur again ; and the idea of beholding him funk in the lafl ftage of mad- nefs, bound hand and foot, and out of the reach of medi- cine, prefents a pifture too diftrefllng to encounter, even in fan- cy. A letter was therefore written to Captain Bacon, with a fummary of the untoward affair. We requefted him to fuppiy Lieutenant * * * with the money which he had paid for his fhare of the boat ; for which Captain Bacon was to call on our attornies ^ in India. Our nokidah now hailed one of the boats, and induced it to draw near us again. He related the caufe of the late difturbance, and agreed with the mafter of it, to land Lieutenant * * * and his flave-boy at Yambo, and afterwards carry him to Judda. He was now afked the amount of the fum, which he had received the laft night from Lieutenant * * *. The nokidah and pilot produced. 25 Venetians, which they declared were all he had given them. It was impoffible to difcover the truth. Lieutenant * * * might perchance be miflaken, and they be apt to deceive us in fuch a point. It appears, however, of little mo- ment to our poor friend ; who is in a mood to give away all his money to the firft man he is diftruftful of. It was now midnight,, and Lieutenant * * * feemed defirous of C 80 ] 01 pafling the night with usj which he once more folemnly averred, was the laft which he or we fhould ever know. As we were not to pait until day-break, we readily affented to this defire. We prevailed on him to lie down on one of onr beds, as he was afraid to remain in his own. At his own requeft, and for the fatisfa6lion of our Arabs, Mr. Hammond and my- felf kept watch over him until morning. I do not remember to have ever been engaged in a more difagreeable office;. Our hu- manity was wounded by the objeft before us ; and our con- fciences were touched at a refolution, which we had been obliged to adopt in our own defpite. The reader of fenfibility will feel for our perplexity. Not a wink of fleep did our charge get during the night. He flarted up every moment in \m bed, or called out to us to know, what villain ftood behind him with a drawn fvvord ! He feemed not to apprehend danger from the other boats -, or to dream of allaflins, but among our own people. SATURDAY, 14th June. At day-break the fignal was made for failing. Lieutenant * * * ai'ofe, rather more compofed than ufual, and permitted his baggage to be put into the other boat, without complaining. He had rcfledlion enough at this moment, to fee the neceffity of our feparation j and allured us, that he held himfelf in no more danger in one place than another. It was his firm opinion that our deftiny was certain, whether in this veflel or that, at Yambo or at Judda. We paid for his palfage, and gave the mafler of the boat a verbal meflage for the vizier, to advertife him of our companion's fituation, and to requeft his good offices, in getting him conveyed fafely to Judda. Our letter for Captain Bacon, we committed to the ilave-boy, together with his mailers fwords C 8i ] fwords and keys. This is a flirewd honeft boy, who we make no doubt will be as careful as he can be, of his mafter, on this fhort paflage. We had the fatisfa6tion to perceive, that Lieu- tenant * * * left us much more readily, than we could have ex- pe6led. Though his antipathy to the Arabs is rooted in his pre- fent diforder, he diftinguiflies ours more particularly, in his diftrufl ; and perhaps, the quitting their Company, is a temporary relief to his mind. Fortvmate did we hold it, that not an angry word was requilite, to haften his departure i affefted as we were at the fituation of a perfon, whom we had fome regard for, and averfe to embittering the potion which was prepared for him. Our principal confolation arofe from the wind being fair for his return. It enfured his reaching Yambo in a few hours ; and might throw him even in the way of the Adventure, which we had feen at the mouth of the harbor but two days before. At all events, we depended on the vizier's treating him with the fame humanity as before ; and complying with the requefl, which we had made in his behalf. The boats had not long left us with Lieutenant * * *, when a breeze of wind came off the land. We prefently got under fail, and had made a good flretch along fhore, when the wind fuddenly came ahead, and blew fo ftrong, as to oblige us to tack about, and look for a fhelter from its fury. We ran back a good way on this defign, and at ii A. M. entered a large bay encircled by a reef of rocks, to which we faftened our boat, in the manner before defcribed. This bay is called Jeraboop, by tlie Arabians. In the middle of it there is an ifland, on which ftands a prieft's houfe. His name is Beridi, and we underfland, that he is vifited by all the faithful who pafs by, on account of his extreme piety and old age. We were too much taken up with the late misfortune which had befallen our fociety, to in- M dulge [ 8a ] dulge curiofity } and left our Arabs to pay their devotions on the ifland alone. We could get no obfervation at noon. The wind blew very violent the whole day from the N. W. but there is no fea in this bay, though it is two miles acrofs from the rocks to the fiiore, which is here as mountainous as ufual. We caught fome beau- tiful rock-fifli in the evening, with our hooks. They were well tafted, and encouraged us to hope for fuch refreihments, at other places on the coaft. The wind increafed during the night, and threatens a ftorm. SUrlDAY, 15th June. We cannot move this morning, as the wind ftill remains con- traiy : the weather is very boifterous without, but we may laugh at the ftorm, which idly fpends its rage on the reef of rocks, that rifes up, like the fevenfold fhield of Ajax, between us and danger. Never was a coaft fo provided by nature, with a barrier againft the hoftilities of the fea or of mankind. The very furge is not permitted to lafh it. And all the navy of Europe would be deterred by tliis formidable outwork, from approaching any fortification which might be erefted on the fhore. What a pity is it, that the country is not worthy of the difpofition, which has been made in its favor ! There is no occafion for armies to prote6l the coaft ; and it is certain, that Arabia Petrea is not indebted to this line of rocks, for her fecurity. She poured forth myriads of enthufiafts, under her v^'arlike fon Mahomet, in fearch of more fertile lands. Nor does it appear, that her defarts, in that interval, attrafted the avarice of foreign invaders. We amufed ourfelves during the morning in catching fiflii wiich readily take the bait here.- Some of them have a mouth like [ 83 ] like a parrot's beak, which our Arabs advife us not to eat. But whether from then- unfeemly form, or their being really unwhole- fome, Ibrahim could not difcover. At lo A. M. we faw a boat Handing towards us, which we fuppofe to be bound to Yambo. The people on board defcried us, and at eleven o'clock ihe run fo near the reef we were upon, as to be within hearing. We find flie comes from Suez, and learn that moftof the Englifh vcflels have left that port. This was all the converfation that we had with the boat, which put before the wind, and was foon out of fight. We gather this confolation, however, from the intelligence, that it is hkely the winds are about to (hift in this quarter. We can no otherwife account for the departure of' our Ihips from Suez, fo much earlier than we expcfted. Our voyage may therefore, be more profperous than it promifed to be. We had no obfervation at noon, and the wind remained in the N. W. quarter while we lay here. A poor woman waded, and fwam through the water to our boat in the evening, and was very thankful for fome meafures of rice which ftie took away. MONDAY, i6thJuNE. We were awakened at one o'clock this morning, by the boat getting under way. It is impolTible for the Arabs to perform this manoeuvre, without our knowledge ; and though we loft our reft by the noife on board, we were agreeably furprized at their taking advantage of the light breeze, which came from the land. With fail and oar, we made a fliift to go at the rate of a knot and a knot and an half an hour, the whole night. At day- break we faw a vefTel to the N. W. ftanding as we did. Our people fay, that fhe is alfo bound for Suez, and has been out no M 2 lef$ [ 84 3 left than twenty days from Yambo. At 9 A. M. we difcovered two more fail ahead. At ten we perceived a fhoal, which they call Morfa, feme leagues dillant -, and at noon, two of the boats appeared at anchor, within a point of land in the N. E. quar- ter. We flood for them j but the wind had now fliifted to the N. W. and it was the work of fome hours, to cany ourfelves within the reef where the largeft veiTel was lying. We hooked our boat clofe by her about 3 P. M. and underftand the bay we are in is called Banas, By our obfervation to-day it lies in the latitude of 24° 30' north. Cape Mahar within view to the northward. We are much difappointed at finding what little pro- grefs we have made fmce we left Yambo ; and particularly, after having been at fea to-day no lefs than fourteen hours. But our voyage bears an intimate refemblance to what the Greeks em- barked in of old ; and by our mode of coafting alone, we can eafily conceive UlyfTes to have been ten years rounding the fhores of Greece ; without the intervention of any enmity, but what the mariner may expe6l from the winds and waves. In the evening we went on board the veflel by us. Her bur- den and accommodations place her far above the ftile of our boatj and we could not but repine at our lot, which had thrown us into an open boat, when it is plain that fome of them are pro- vided with cabbins. We were received very civilly by her noki- dali, who tells us that he is going to Suez. He is fickly, and was very thankful for fome medicines we fpared him, which we brought with us for the complaint he is afflicted with. Thefe, the Arabians never fail to folicit of Europeans, when they have occafion for them, as they have a notion that we have one and all of us, a fmattering in phylic. The wind frefhened, and blew all night from the N. W. as ufual. TUESDAY, r ^5 1 TUESDAY, 17th JuNF. The wind is ftill contrary, and we cannot move this morning. It blew fo ftrong at day-break, that our Arabs made our boat faft with another rope, by a turn round a pointed rock. Where we he, a man of war might ride in great fecurity. There are ieveral fathoms of water clofe by the rocks, which break the force of the fwell that tumbles down from the N. W. the reef at low water is every where dry, and we then pick up plenty of fifh among the crevices of the rocks. While we have this fup- ply, we fliall'^not be at a lofs for provilions. We have ftill a iheep left, and fliall referve a few fowls which we got from the Adventure, for more neceflitous times. At 8 A. M. the nokidah of the large vefTel paid us a vifit. It was partly to return our compliment, but his principal bufmefs was to look at our chart of the Red Sea. Our Arabs tell us that he is one of the beft pilots of their nation. On a review of this chart we find it tolerably exd.£t, as to the names of the iflands and headlands on this coaft. It is our intention, in the courfe of our voyage, to correal it where it is faulty, and to point out all the reefs and (hoals between Yambo and Cape Mahomet. We have the advantage of being with pilots, who are acquainted with every creek and corner of the coaft ; and may gather fuch information of the track, as will prove of fervice to veiTels thrown by currents on this dangerous fhore. The fellow's furprize was very great, to hear places named by ftrangers, which only thofe of his own profeffion among his coun- trymen were acquainted with. They have no fuch thing as a chart } but his natural fagacity quickly made him comprehend the plan of ours. But as we are the firft Europeans whom he has heard of in this navigation, he cannot reconcile to himfelf,. 5 how r 86 ] liow the fituation of thefe iflands could have been taken by vef- fels that dare not approach them. He has not the leaft idea of the ufe of the quadrant -, and he conceived that we were rather making difcoveries in the heavens, than afcertaining our latitude below. We began to keep a regular watch to-night. Each gentleman and his fervant to take two hours in rotation. We fliall run no rilk, it feems, until we get among the iflands, but it is prudent to inure ourfelves in time to a neceflary habit. There were hard gales from the N. W. all day and part of the night. WEDNESDAY, iSth June. We were under way at 6 A. M. with the wind at N. by W. and. ftood out to fea. But the wind was too moderate to be of much fervice to us, againfl the heavy fwell which the late blow- ing weather has occafioned. We tacked therefore at lo o'clock, and the wind coming round more to the W- we were enabled, contrary to our expe6lations, to fetch a reef to the northward of Cape Mahar about 2 P. M. There is another boat at anchor about a mile to the northward of us, fuppofed alfo to be bound to Suez. Our boat beats better to windward than the two which were in company with us yefterday. The largeft of which has run into fliOre near a league to the fouthward, and the other within a mile of us. » We were difappointed of an obfervation to-day by the high lands to the fouthward, which obftrufled our view. Our pro- grefs however has been very little. Were not the full moon at ^land, we fhould look for little fuccefs in beating up fuch a coafl as this. A few days of a foutherly wind would give us a good ihove in the fliort diitance we are going ; and all our hopes reft on the influence of this ufeful planet. The gentle light which z flie [ 87 J file now affords us during the night-feafon, proves a great relief to us after the funfhine of the day, in this fultry month. But difficult as we find it to keep ourfelves cool in the day-time, it is no eafier matter to defend our bodies from the damps of the night, when the wind is loaded with the heavieft dews that ever fell. To be in readinefs for every change of wind in our favor, we are obliged to forego the benefit of the awning I mentioned. We lie expofed to the whole weight of the dews, and the cloaks in which we wrap ourfelves, are as wet in the morning, as if they had been immerfed in the fea. It is plain, however, that they are not impregnated with "the bad qualities, which render people fo fearful of the dew in moll parts of the world, or our conllitutions would have evinced the faft. The weather was very moderate during the night, and the wind remained in the ufual quarter. We relieved our watch re- gularly, as the night before, and find that a little practice will make it eafy to us. THURSDAY, 19th June. We got under fail at day-break with the wind at N. and ftood out to fea until 10 o'clock. The wind now heading us, we tacked and lay up along fliore. Our courfe was but flow, but we continued gaining ground until 2 P. M. when we ran into a fine bay, and brought to, on a reef within an hundred yards of the beach. We are not at all- difpleafed with the working of our boat. She has run her two conforts out of fight, and beat the boat which was a-head of us yeflerday. There was a con- tell between them the whole morning, and the viflory declared in favor of our boat, which has fetched a mile to windward of the other. However contemptible the prize, there is a feci-et fa- tisfaftion in being fuperior to our neighbors on every occa- fion. [ 88 ] fion. And I doubt, whether the winner at an horfe-race could have exulted more, than we did at our dexterity, in beating a veflel, much worfe found than ours. The bay we are in, is in the latitude of 24° 36' N. by an obfervation which we took to-day. To the W. it is defended by a reef of rocks, and the high land to the northward and eaftward, would fecure it from a ftorm in thofe points. There is water enough within for the largeft fhips ; but it is very un- certain, whether they could gain admittance within the reef that guards this coaft. It is not always that we difcern that reef to the weftward of us ; but there is every reafon to imagine, that we are ftill faihng within it ; and that the rocks are only more funken in thofe places, where the fea is not feen to break upon them. It was accident alone, that brought the Adventure tlirough this reef before our arrival at Yamboi and it would be the fame chance, that would fleer a veflel of her burden into this bay, clear of the dangers which impede the palTage. To atone, in fome meafure, for the want of exercife in our prefent fituation, we make a pra6lice of going into the water regularly before fun-fet. The coves we lie in, are very conve- nient for this purpofe ; and we find great benefit, as well as re- frelhment, from the fait water. FRIDAY, 20th June. We weighed at day-break, and ftood out to fea, with the wind atN. N. W. At 7 A. M. we faw the ifland of Hafana, bear- ing about N. N. W. at the dift-ance of eight leagues. At eight, we ran by a funken rock, above three leagues from the land j and at the fame time we difcerned breakers upon our lee-quarter, a league further in the fea. At ten we tacked with the wind at W. and ftood along the coaft. At eleven we came amiong a number of breakers. [ 89 ] breakers, that extend three or four leagues into the fea. Our pilot appears to be well experienced in this navigation. He difplayed his dexterity to-day, by running us through narrow channels, and almoft brufhing the rocks to the windward of the boat. This is as dangerous a part as we have {een of this coaft ; nor would it be poffible for a fliip, without an Arabian pilot on board, to ftoer through this net of rocks and llioals, except by a miracle. We proceeded under an eafy fail for fome hours. The weather was remarkably hot, and we were expofed, as ufual, to all the rage of a vertical fun. But we had the fatisfadlion to refleft, that we were gaining fomewhat on our way. And this ferved to alleviate the inconveniences to which we are fubjefted by our fituation. The fatisfadlion, however, was tranlient. The wind headed us at two o'clock, and we were obliged to run into fliore by another boat, which is faid to be bound for Suez. We had the mortifica- tion ftill not to keep the ground which we had fo happily attain- ed. The pilot did not like the birth, and ran back again to the fouthward, in fearch of another. It is impoffible to portray the countenances which we exhibited during this manoeuvre. We could not contain our vexation, and remonftrated pretty warmly with the pilot, on his fporting with our good fortune, and throw- ing away the advantages which we fo feldom obtained. He lent a deaf ear to our complaints ; and went near a league, before we ar- rived at the bay where he intended to pafs the night. Here we came to on a reef, at 4 P. M. and found the water not deep enough to admit vefiels of any burthen. Ourobfervation at noon brought us into the latitude of 24° 46' N. The wind was moderate all night from the N. W. N S A T U R- f 90 ] SATURDAY, 21ft June. Wc were rouzed at three this morning by the boat getting under way. Our beds take up the breadth of the boat, and were we ever fo much overpowered with lleep, the tramphng of the ma- riners' feet upon our bodies, would foon chafe away all inclina- tions of that nature. There was a light breeze from the land, and the moon being at her full juft before it fprang up, flatters our hopes of more favorable winds for fome days to come. We went cafily along until day-break, when the high land of Hafana ap- peared, bearing N. W. at the diilance of fix leagues. This ifland is in the form of a fusrar-loaf, and rifes like an exhalation from the fea. At 9 A. M. a fine breeze fprung up from the S. E. and at noon we anchored in a fmall bay, off the northernmolf point of Hafana, We were much out of humor at this delay, but found it impoflible to prevent the Arabs flopping, for purpofes unknown to us. It is an hardfliip on us, to lofe the benefit of a fair wind, with a month's provifion and water on board. But we are obliged to confider the refolutions of thefe people as law, in every tiling that refpe<fts the management of the boat. The ifland of Hafana is a baiTen rock, inhabited only at parti- cular feafons, when the natives from the continent bring off wood, water, and provifions, for the conveniency of veffels that pafs to and fro. They ere6t temporary habitations for their families, and live chiefly upon the fifh with which this coafl: abounds. This ifland is not more than two leagues long, and about half as broad. It lies about three leagues from the main, and in the latitude of 25° 3 ' N. by this day's obfervation. Here we found three boats, bound likewife for Suez. They mean to jom us to-morrow, in order to pafs the cluflerof iflands that lies to the northward of this. This we learn from our nokidah ; who affures us that the Buddoos, or Q; wild. C 91 ] wild Arabs, infeil: thofe parts, and make no fcruple to attack a fingle boat. It was one reafon for his calling here, if we are to take his word i and though we hold ourfelves flrong enough to venture fingly through this fea, all argument and difpleafure on om* fide, are equally vain. The wind blew brilkly from the S. E. the remainder of the day, and continued in the fame quarter until we retired to reft. The lofs of time did not add more to our difcontent, than did the in- dolence and phlegm of our Arabs. SUNDAY, 22d June. Our nokidah and pilot both lay afhore laft night, fo that It was not prafticable for us to have failed, had our inclinations only been confulted. A land breeze came off from the N. E. about an hour before day- break, and at 6 A. M. we fent Ibrahim afliore to haften our people. He returned with an anfwer, that the other boats were not ready, and that it was fruitlefs to urge the necelTity of our affairs, or to expe>5t their departure a moment be- fore their own time. It is more than probable, that the fnow Aurora was wreck- ed on the back of this ifland in the month of December ; a cir- cumftance which has been already noticed in this work. The captain's journal places the ifland in this latitude; and we have fufhcient proofs of a wreck being in this neighborhood. The beach is covered with a number of * teak-timbers, knees, and bolts of a vefTel ; and a fine Englifli-built cutter lies upon the ftrand, which is new, and in good repair. * The teak-tree is a native of India, and its timber refembles oak fo much, that it is ufed throughout the Eaft for Ihip-building. It is thought to furpafs oak in point of duration. N 2 At [ 92 ] At nine we weighed, in company with five boats, and flood to the eaflward, with little or no wind. At ten a fine breeze fprung up from the S. W, and we ran by a number of fhoals and breakers to the windward of us, that are four or five leagues from the main. At eleven we pafTed a fandy ifland, from which there ap- pears to ftretch a connefled line of breakers to the ifland of Ha- fana. Within this line we have made our run to-day. At 2 P. M. we anchored to the eaflward of the ifland of Harama, which lies about fix leagues to the northward of Hafana. We had no ob- fervation at noon, but we conclude it from our reckoning to be in the latitude of 25° 20' N. This is a low fandy ifland, extend- ing about two miles in length, and half a mile in breadth, and fituated about a league from the main. There are a few huts near the place we are anchored at, which ferve to fhew the po- verty of the inhabitants, and that we have little to fear from them, though we perceive that there are boats belonging to the ifland. From this day's navigation we are convinced, that no fliip can approach this part of the coafl of Arabia, with any degree of fe- curityi as the fea is all along foul with fhoals and rocks, and we frequently faw breakers to windward of us, which could not be lefs than fix or feven leagues from the land. The wind was va- riable during the night, but blew chiefly from the weflward. MONDAY, 23d June. ',«- We weighed at day-break, after taking on board a couple of fheep, which we purchafed here for three dollars each. There was a brifk breeze from the E. N. E. with which we flood along the coafl. At feven o'clock we pafTed the fmall ifland of Abu- mellie, which is furrounded by breakers. Here v/e difcovered an Arab family afhore, and a boat put off with fome of the men, to vifit [ 93 ] vifit our people. This ifland is bare of every thing but a few bufhes, and does not lie half a league from the main. At eight the wind came round to N. which obliged us to Hand out more to fea. Our bark is, indeed, a prime failor, and no veffel which we have met with, can keep pace with her. But this is rather a difadvantage to us, as our pilot daily foregoes the fuperi- ority he has gained, to keep company with the other boats. He now inclined more to the weftward than was neceffary. His in- tention was evidently to loiter for our conforts. We cannot pre- vent the delay which this plan mufl occafion, during our difa- greeable voyage. Our Arabs feem refolved to grant their coun- trymen the proteftion which our company may afford them ; and at the fame time, they are not wanting to perfuade us, that our fecurity confifts in going together. The run to-day has been very clear, and the coaft appears more fertile, than we have feen it on this fide of Mocha. At 2 P. M. we tacked and ran into fhore. To our great difappointment, we could not weather a bluff point ahead j and the pilot ran back near a league, before he could find a fecure birth. At length he came to, on a reef clofe to the fliore before four o'clock, where we were prefently joined by two of our fleet. We could get no obfervation at noon, on account of the high land to the fouth- ward ; but, by our reckoning, we take the place which we now lie in, to be in the, latitude of 25° 38' N. We had more exercife for our phyfical fkill this evening. There is a boy. lying fick of a fever, on board one of the boats near us 5. and on application for relief, we fent him fome cooling draughts, to be repeated according to the directions which we received. But fome bowls of weak tea, which the boy more readily took, produced an immediate perfpiration, and feem more likely to promote his recoveiy. Our fuccefs will not fail to recommend us to the Arabs. The wind blew from the S. W. a great part of the night. TUESDAY. ['94 ] TUESDAY, 24th June. We got under fail at day-break, with a fine breeze from the land, in company with the two boats. The other three appear- ing above a league aftern. We kept about half a league from the fliore, but found the water fo fliallow, that we hold it im- poflible the annual Judda fliip fliould go to Suez in this track. There were breakers the whole way, fome leagues without us. Several fandy iflands are fcattered about this part of the coafl, which are laid down in the chart. The fhore is now covered with undei'wood, and interfperfed with date-trees ; but no inha- bitants have come into view. At 8 A. M. the wind died away, and our crew took to their oars and rowed out to fea, in hopes of meeting with the fea- wind. The channels liere, in many places, will fcarcely admit our boats between them ; and the rocks around us, fland out of the water, and are covered with the largeft birds which were ever feen. The Arabs call them Meriah. They have a pro- digious long bill and long legs, which enable them to catch fifli in near a fathom water. The current feems to be for us, but we have no opportunity to try it. At nine we came up with the fouthernmofl point of the ifland of Naaman, which is laid down in the chart in 26° 6 ' north ; with fands about it. But this we find to be an error. The ifland begins in the latitude of 25" 50' and extends to 26' 6 'north; and although at a dif- tance, it might be taken for a number of different iflands, on a Hearer view, it proves to be one continued land, overflown in feveral quarters at high water. We run between this ifland and the main, through very clear and deep water, with a fl:rong breeze at W. S, W. Latitude per obfervation 25° 50'. At 3 P. M. we opened a cove within a reef of rocks, and anchored [ 95 ] anchored clofe on the Arabian coaft, where one of our fleet had ah-eady arrived. The reft we fairly ran out of fight to-day, ex- cept a boat of cur own fize, commanded by our pilot's brother ; which ftopped at Naaman to procure a fupply of wood. By our reckoning, we take our anchoring-place to be in the latitude of 26° north. At fun-fet our nokidah weighed his anchor, and ran out into deeper water, to prevent a furprize from the wild Arabs, who frequent this neighborhood. The other boat fol- lowed our example. Theie were calms and light airs the whole night. WEDNESDAY, 25th June. We weighed our anchor at day-break, with a light breeze from the land. The two boats were in company, and we went under an eafy fail for fome hours. At 8 A. M. a fine gale fprung up from the fouthward, and agreeably quickened our courfe. We ran by feveral fandy illands, within a league and an half of the main, and in fpite of the hot weather, entertained our imaginations with the fairnefs of the wind, and the novelty of the navigation. We had been a fortnight on board yefter- day, and though we were advanced not a third of the diftance to Suez, we had the fatisfaition to refle6t, that we had gained. aJl our ground in the laft four or five days. For the firft week our progrefs had been delayed by the misfortune of our com- panion, and the ftrength of contrary winds. The winds are now variable, and promife to be fo until the change of the moon. It only depends upon our Arabs, to improve the occafion which fortune prefents to us. On fome of the iilands which we pafTed, were feveral birds, larger even than thofe we faw yefterday. We pofitively mif- took them for men at a diftance, wading in the fea ; and oiife of [ 96 ] of them was fo bold, as not to be feared at a fhot, which was fired at it from our boat. At 1 1 A. M. the wind veered round to the weftward, and our pilot thought fit to run under the lee of a fandy ifland, where the other boats foon came to, like- wife. With this wind we might have gone a great way fur- ther to the northward, were we not in a manner fliut up among fhoals and rocks, by keeping fo dofe to the fhore. By our obfervation this ifland is in the latitude of 26° 7 'north. Here our people gathered a quantity of eggs, which the birds lay upon the fandy reefs. They tell us thefe eggs are well-tafl:ed and wholefomej but we are not driven to fuch flreights, as to be obliged to put up with all kinds of food. The boy is much mended in his fever, and entertains a great opinion of the virtues of tea. There were light airs from the fouthward, and calms, during the night. THURSDAY, 26th June. We got under fail at day -break, in company with the two boats. The wind was at S. E. and we ran eafily for fome hours, through very foul water, with fandy iflands on each fide of us. At 9 A. M. we came to, under a fmall ifland; where our noki- dah tells us we muft wait for the refl: of the fleet, in order to pafs fome iflands ahead, which are haunted by piratical Arabs. The caution of this man begins to communicate itfelf to our minds. Were there not fome danger lurking near us, he could not be fo uniform in his behavior, or fo folicitous for the jiun6lion of the boats behind us. As the wind frefliens from the fouthward, we have hopes that the refl: of the fleet will join us in a few hours. But this is little confolation to perfons in our fituation, who are anxious to conclude our voyage, and are obliged to forego a fair wind in a contrary raonfoon. This ifland [ 97 ] ifland is about four leagues from the main, and by our obferva- tion, is in the latitude of 26° 8' N. There is a prieft dwells upon it, called Morbeck, to whofe cell our Arabs are gone, to pray for a fair wind, at a time that they are trifling one away ! -To the fouth of this ifland there is a remarkable rock, which ap- pears at a diftance, like a lion couchant. One of the boats • is anchored by us, the other is gone to the continent to cut wood. At noon we difcovered two boats to the fouthward, and be- fore 2 P. M. we were joined by all the fleet, except one boat which is a bad failor, and lags behind. We immediately got under fail, and fl:ood to the N. W. with a fine fea bi'eeze. We ran briflcly through deep and clear water, until pafl: four o'clock, when the wind coming round to the northward of wefl:, the whole fleet flreered into fliore, and anchored clofe on the Arabian coaft. The hindermofl: boat came up within a mile of us, fo that we are now fix fail in company. This place, by our ac- count, lies in the latitude of 26° 16 'N. ^" We had fcarcely come to an anchor, when we difcovered ca- mels and a number of women moving towards us. They proved to belong to a wandering tribe of Arabs, who are wont to come down in a friendly manner, to fell ftieep and water to vefl'els that touch on the coaflr. Their appearance was truly miferable ; and we could perceive but little difference between the human and brute creation, whom nature had bred in this defart region. Their wants, their appetites, and their infenfibility, bore an in- timate refemblance together. And they were as much below our envy, as above our compafllon. Light airs from the wefl: all night. \ \ O FRIDAY, I[ .98 1 FRIDAY, 27th June. ;. We were difturbed in our firft fleep, by the fleet of boats get- ting under way at one this morning. There was a light breeze from the land, and with the help of our oars, we made a fhift to go between two and three knots an hour. Our run was through very foul and fliallow w^ater. At 11 A. M. we palTed a fandy ifland, which is lofty, and makes like the ruins of a caftle (land- ing in the water ; the fides perpendicular and appearing like walls, and at one end, the face refcmbling a decayed tower. The rocks in this fea are often thrown into fantaflic fhapes. Some we have feen like boats under fail, and fome like animals and men. A fine breeze now fprung up from the S. W. and at noon we ran by another ifland, fandy like the former, and lying within four leagues of the main. By our obfervation, this iiland is in the latitude of 26P 26' N. From hence we continued our courfe through cleai' and deep water, until 3 P. M. when the wind heading us, we flood into fliore, to fetch our pilot's brother, whofe boat got the flart of us to-day, ai->d had come to an anchor under the land. This was the boat that went for wood yefterday, and we were afloniflied to fee a fine timber on board, which fhe had picked up afliore. It is of teak, and being about 30 feet long, we conje£lure it to be one of the beams of the un- fortunate Aurora, which the fea has cafl up again. The Arab tthinks to get a good price for it, at fome of the ports in this jfea. This place, by our reckoning, is in the latitude of 26' 36' N. Here we found an opening in the land, which difclofed a very ^jdeep and romantic valley, where the fea, at times, appears to tflow in to a confiderable depth. . Tlie fame chain of mountains r V9 ] ftill continues within land, that" we have traced from "^'an^bo. They only vary in the line, which in feme places, approaches nearer to the coaft than in others. Four of our fleet not bein^ able to reach us, bore away for anchoring-ground, which is not in fight. This is no fmall mortification to us, who will be un- der the neceffity of waiting for them. The wind blew from the weilward during the night. "'- / SATURDAY, 28th June. "^- There was a fine breeze fprang up from the land before day- break, but we did not weigh, in expeftation of being joined by Jiie other boats. At 5 P. M. they came in view, but the force of the wind was fpent, and we failed with little or no wind. At 8 the wind came round to the N. W. and began to blow fo frefh, that our pilot was fain to run under a reef of breakers, which lies more than three leagues from the main. Here our pilot's brother was already arrived, but none of the refl: of the ■fleet could come up. Our fituation is very eligible. We are heire defended from the violence of the weather, and are ready to flip out, fliould the wind veer again to the eaft or fouth quarters. As we advance on oiu- voyage, we have daily frefli matter of .iurprize, and behold the intricacies of a navigation, which we had no idea cauld exift in any corner of the globe. By our ob- iervation, this reef is in the latitude of 26° 40' N. Cape Sellah bears due north, at the diftance of fix leagues. • This fea abounds with the large mother-of-pearl oyfters i and our nokidah to-day gave us a proof of his agility, by jumping out of the boat when under fail, and bringing up one of thefe oyfters in two fathom water, in time to catch a rope from tlie boat's quarter. Thefe fellows' dexterity in fifliing cannot be fufticiently admired ; and wherever we are, we may depend ■'■^- O 2 upon upon our mafter for a difh of excellent fifli. At low water the reef appears fome feet above the level of the fea, and our table was not unprovided with its ufual fervice. This circum- ftance is very favorable to this coafting voyage ; as, whatever other hardfhips they may endure, the want of provifion is not felt by the mariners. There were hard gales all day from the N. W. fo that we could not quit our ftation. As the moon enters into her laft quarter to-day, this contrary wind betides us no good, and we apprehend there will be no change until the new moon. We are become very fkilful in the influences of this planet ; but how are they to be pitied, whofe fuccefs depends upon fo inconftant a power ! The weather was more moderate during the night;. TChe wind in the fame point. - * SUNDAY, 29th June. At half paft fix this morning a light breeze came off the land, and flattered us to leave our ftation. We weighed in company with the other boat, and ftood to the N. N. W. but the wind fhifting fuddenly to the W. N. W. and an ugly fwell being againft us, before we had got a league, both the boats were obliged to tack, and run back to their former birth under the reef. Here we were joined by three more of our fleet at 9 A. M. They had luckily made fuch a ftretch to fea, as to be able to reach this reef, when the wind changed to the weftward. There was now jbut one miffing boat, and at 10, we difcovered her at anchor upon the reef, • about a league to the fouthward. Our fears of the weather, axe now confirmed. We rauft look for delays for fome days to come ; which, joined to fome circumftances of our fituation, call forth all our fortitude to combat with cheer- fully., -i-i:.,- ij.iK ; i,- "If- .. > The The v/esther was very tempeftuous, and there were frequent gales from the N.W. during the day. The night was more mo- derate ; but we had a difturbance of another nature on board our boat, which alarmed us at firft, but turned out to be a ludi- crous, rather than a ferious adventure. Befides our nokidah and pilot, there is another Arab on board, as I have faid before. The reft of the crew are Abyfliniaiu", During the firft watch at night, which it was my turn to keep, this Arab, who was talking with his companions, fuddenly fell upon the deck in the ftern of the boat, and to all appearance, was feized with a convulfive fit. We were immediately in mo- tion, and offered to adminifter fuch relief to him, as we had fcen pra6lifed in the fame cafes. But our aftoniftiment was great, when we found the Arabs would not permit any afliftance to be given him. They declared, that he was only difordered in mind, and that an evil fpirit poffefled him, who could only be expelled by the force of prayer. Accordingly the nokidah. began to pray over liim aloud, while two men held the un- happy creature down, to prevent, as they faid, the ill effeds of the temporary influence which over-ruled him. They told us ftorie? of men in tliis fituation, who committed murder, and every other atSl of defperation. This idea appeared fo extrava- gant to us, that we treated it with ridicule ; and could not but pity the ignorance of a people, who were fuch flaves to fuperftir- tion. The notion was certainly imbibed from the demoniacs of Paleftine, who are mentioned in the New Teftament. We have fcriptural authority to believe their exiftence at a certain period. But to fuppofe they have ftill liberty to enter into human bodies, and that man has the fame power, as our Saviour pofiefTed over fupernatural beings, are tenets worthy of a weak and unen- lightened mind. We were much furprized,^ however, at the kngth of the fit, which continued between two and three hours; andj . it ,J02 ] aad, from the fttorig agitations of his body, left the Arab in a flate of imbecillity for the reil: of the night. But the devil was at length exorcifed, and the nokidah remarked to us with tri- umph, the great efficacy of prayer f la ,Ij MONDAY, 30th JoNE. ^ " We weighed at fix this morning, in company with the four boats, with a light breeze from the N. N. E. The other boat i\ood after us at a diftance. Our run to-day was through very deep and clear water, and, by the long and ugly fwell w^hich tumbled in upon us from the N. W. we conje<5lure there is no reef of rocks without this part of the coaft, and that a large vefTel might iland in, without danger. Latitude, per obfervation, ^6" 44' north. At twelve o'clock the wind hauled round to the N. V/. and the whole fleet tacked and flood into fhore. At 4 P. M. we ran into a fmall inlet, defended from the fea by a reef, and hooked ourfelves to a rock, within two fathoms of the beach. Here we were joined by the reft of the fleet, ex*- cept one boat which cannot keep up. As we came in here, our nokidah told us to prime our fire- arms, and prepare ourfelves for the reception of the wild Arabs. He had fcarcely fpoken, when our old pilot leaped into the water and fwam alliore, and with all the agility of youth, afcended an eminence that juts into the fea, to learn if there was any immediate danger. This inlet opens into a valley, on each fide of which we have planted a centinel. The country has refumed its barren appearance, and yields only a bruili-wood, with which our fleet have fupplied themfelves. This place is called Jebul, or Mount Lebel, and by our reckoning, lies in the latitude of 26' 46 'north. ^r .:> About half an hour after our arrival, a man and woman I came [ I03 1 came down to us in a friendly manner, and aflured us we had nothing to fear, as there were no buddoos in that neighbor- hood at prefent. But our Arabs pay little attention to this information -, and are fo fufpicious of this flation, that ws doubled our watch during the night, and perhaps, would have made an enemy repent of an intrufion at fuch a feafon. The Weather was moderate during the night, but the wind {till re- liiained in the N. W. quarter. TUESDAY, ift July. <j. We got uixder way at half pafl one this morning, with ^ l^ht breeze from the land, in company with the four boats. We flood along £hore with fails and oars, until 7 A. M. when the wind heading us, we made a ftretch out to fea. At eight we tacked with the wind at weft", and flood to the northward. At nine we pafTed a little fandy ifland, about two leagues from tlie main. At ten we ran clofe by a reef of rocks, about half a league further in the fea. There was no fwell to-day, which we attribute to our being within fhoals and reefs, and we faw a rock fome leagues without us. But this may be owing to the nature of narrow feas, where a fwell foon rifes, and as foon fub- lides, as the wmd frelhens or moderates. We fetched as high as we could on the Arabian fhore, and at noon anchored in fmooth water, where three of the boats foon joined us. The pilot's brother is a better failor than we, and is anchored at leafl a league ahead. By our obfervation we ar*3 in the latitude of 26° 56 'north. The coaft is not fo hilly here, and our people are lefs apprehenfive of a furprize. The wind re- mained at N. W. during the reft of the day, but fo moderate^ that we have great hopes of variable winds, if not a total change^ at the new moon, which now approaches. We have only run half f[ M" ] half the diftance between Yambo and Suez ; but a few days of a foutherly wind would do our bufmefs. There were light airs from the land in the night. WEDNESDAY/2d JuLV. •C'.' •:^We weighed at day-break with a breeze from the land, i'tt company with the three boats. We flood clofe in with the' fliore, and went through fmooth andfhallow water until 9 A. M. when the wind coming round to tlie N. W. we made a ftretch out to fea, tacked, and weathered a fandy ifland ahead, where ourpilot's brother lay to his veflel for us. This iHand, by our reckoning, lies 'inC the latitude of 27' i ' north, and has a reef of breakers, extending fome leagues beyond it to the N. W. It is only inhabited by birds, of which we faw an amazing number en the fliore. At eleven the wind heading us, we ran into the' Arabian fliore, and at noon anchored in a cove, furrounded by' high mountains, which rife perpendicular from the fea. Here we found the pilot's brother, and were foon joined by the three other boats. Our fleet now confifl:s but of five boats, the other having been totally feparated from us. ' *This cove is called Maraut by the Arabians, and by our ob- fervation, lies in the latitude of 27° 3 'north. We have reafon to think that Ras, or Cape Sellah, which is laid dovAm in the charts in 27° north is twenty miles to the fouthward, and the land in 27° does not form a cape. We have our pilot's authority, as well as our own obfervation, for this remark. Towards the evening fome natives came down, with about a dozen camels loaded with water. We were at too great a dif- tance to be in danger of a furprize, and fent our people afliore to feplenifli our cafl<s, which, with all our care, began to be low. Her€ we likewife provided ourfelves with firewood; arid are told 3 there L i<55 ] there is a fpring of water near the beach, which is the firft wc have met with on this coaft. It is, however, Co very brackifh, that nothing but neceflity could induce any one to drink it. Our nokidah returned, with a branch of a very fragrant fhrub. It grows wild among the rocks, and differs in appearance and fmell, from any fpecies that we know of. The vicinity of the natives made us double our watch during the night, which was calmer than ufual. THURSDAY, 3d July. We got under way at day-break, with little or no wind; but with our oars, we made a fliift to creep on at the rate of a knot an hour. The four boats in company. At 9 A. M. the wind came from the N. N. W. with which we made a ftretch out to fea. We foon found that we could make nothing of it, and at ten we tacked and flood into the land. We faw an ifland ahead about four leagues to the northward, which we take to be the ifland of Sufcha, as our chart names it, though our pilot calls it Shaur. By our obfervatlon at noon, we were in the latitude of 27" 9 'north. Our run to-day has been through deep and clear water, and as we have not obferved any reefs or fhoals without ns> we have reafon to think a fl^ip might ftand clofe into the Arabian coaft in this latitude. This is, in fa£l, but a matter of opinion, founded upon fuch evidence, as the reader has before him. We are neither mafters of our time, nor the motions of our velTel, and our remarks can only arife from a fuperficial view of things. At I P. M. we anchored under a point of land on the main, which we take, by our reckoning, to be in the latitude of 27° 12' north. From hence we faw another ifland, bearing to the weft- ward of Shaur. We are now approaching to the fcenes of dan- P ger. [ io6 ] ger, with which we have been fo long amufed by our Arabs ; and have fome hopes that we fliall not be awaked to the reaUty of our apprehenfions. We were foon joined by the reft of our little fleet. The wind blew from the N. W. during the day, but very moderately. Towards the clofe of the evening, we difcovered a couple of wo- men and fome canicls in the countiy, with the help of our glades. This was fufHcient to put us more upon our guard, to prevent ovir being furprized by thefe roving tribes. There were calms and light airs from the northward, for the firft pait of the night. FRIDAY, 4th July, ■ We weighed at one A. M. with a light breeze from the land, in company with the other boats. At fix a fine breeze fprung up from the S. E. with which we ftood along the Arabian coaft. At eight we ran by the ifland of Shaur or Sufcha, whofe fhores are very fteep, and refemble decayed walls at a diftance. This ifland is about two leagues in length, lies about two leagues from the main, and by our reckoning, is in the latitude of 27° 20' N. A reef of breakers extend from the. ifland to the N. W. on which we faw the wreck of the annual Judda fhip, faid to have been loft here in a gale of wind in the year i774> on her way to Suez. Her ftem and ftern, and many of her ribs, ftill appear above the water, and pronounce her to have been of prodigious magnitude. Indeed, the accounts of this Arabian galleon's bur- den, are fo extravagant, that it might feem to offend credibility to repeat tliem. I Ihall only obferve, that flie fails from Judda m the month of March, and by following the track which we have gone, as near as polTible, fhe is generally fifty days, or two montlis, on her voyage to Suez: and, as it has happened this year, from fome accident or other, Ihe fometimes gets no further 2 than [ 107 ] than Tor. To fail in the performance of fo ftiort a voyage, in the mofl favorable feafon of the year, would be an inexplicable circumflance to a mariner, unacquainted with the navigation of this extraordinary coaft. To us, who are no ftrangers to the courfc, the wonder is, how a veffel of her great burden and un- wieldy ftru6lure, can accomplifli the paflage at all. At lo A. M. the wind hauled round to the weftward, and we flood N. N. W. until eleven, when all the fleet bore away for the land. After we had pafled the ifland of Shaur, an ugly fwell came tumbling upon us from the N. W. Our run to-day was through fhallow water, until we reached Shaur i but we found very deep water between the ifland and the main. At noon we anchored under a reef of rocks, above two miles from the Ara- bian coaflr. Latitude, per obfervation, 27' 28' N. There is a pro- digious high mountain inland, fome leagues to the northward of us, on the top of which are two remarkable fpires, that refemble a bull's horns. We faw a fire afliore, but no people. The wind was W. all day, and part of the night. SATURDAY, 5th July. We weighed before one this morning, with a light breeze from the land. The other boats were in company. At day-break the wind came round to the S.E. with which we flood along the fliore. There was an heavy fwell from the N. W. which confider- ably impeded our progrefs. Our run to-day was through clear and deep water. We looked out ahead for Mount Sinai, and flood on until noon, when the wind Ihifting to the weftward, we tacked, and the whole fleet flood into the land. Our latitude, per obferva- tion, was 27° 49 'N. We now difcovered a large town ahead, which our Arabs call Moilah. There is little doubt but it is the fame place, which our chart erroneou fly lays down in 27° N. ahout 50 P 2 miles f ['9gc ] roi miles to the fouthward. We faw an ifland to the N. W. which our pilot tells us is Sanafir. At i P. M. we plainly difcerQed tli^i; high land, which we take to be adjacent to Cape Mahomet, bea&r,.; in§ W. N, yy.,..,At three the wind veering round to the Wy;^r whole fleet anchored within a reef of rocks to the northward '©£,♦/ Moilah, and about one league aiad an half from the fhore. The mountain mentioned yellerday with the remarkable top, , lies behind this town, which appears through our glaflbs to be a" regular fortification, of a fquare figure. Our nokidah gives the 'inhabitants a very bad character, and tells us a ftory of their. ^p*-:"-; cently feizing, and plundering a Judda boat, w hich put into the . road through ftrefs of weather. At fun-fet, the fliore to th? Ntv/ of the gulf of Akaba bore W. by N. Cape Mahomet we takcvtoso bear due weft, as we have entered the gulf. By our reckonings • this reef is in about the latitude of 27° 58 'N. The vvp>4;iQ<^ltilt^.• n^ed at W. the remainder of the day. - ,t ' a When the evening clofed in, all the boats run out into fix fi^nll thorn water, on account of the vicinity of Moilah, of which placed our Arabs have a very unfavoux'able opinion. After it was dark, 1 we faw many fires on the Arabian fliore, but. every thing, remain- ed quiet during the night. The wind inclined towards the fouthTr;* ward; - j o?ni(|93b ' 'V ' . ''•'^' SUNDAY, 6th July. We got under way at two this moniing, in company with the otlver boats, with the wind from the S. S. W. At day-break wq,, fa\V the iiland of Sanafir, bearing W. by N. at the diftance of four leagues and upwards. There are breakers without us, which pro- bably extend, with little interruption, from the ifland of Shaur to Sanafir. At 10 A. M. v/e came up with the latter ifland, and . caiiife i6» Ulidfer it, to wait for iibme boats wluch fail worfe than.; . ni ?On,ol ,i:;:u ; v ::«oi.:/--.r' k'J :;;- ^H n^^ ^'^ ^^ -^^^^ • ours: This Iflaiid is nothing but a high barren rAck; and hes in" the latitude of 2S" 3 'N. We faw a turtle-fhell on the beach, but could not procure a turtle here, or in any of the iflands we have pafTed. At half paft ten we flood to the northward, in companjf' with the whole fleet, and on opening a ftrait that divides this' ifland into two parts, we difcovered two boats at anchor under the land. On their perceiving us, they immediately got under fail, flood towards us for a time, then- flackened their fail, and after having amufed us for an hour and more, ran back into their former flation. By thefe manoeuvres we concluded them to be pirates, which was confirmed by their not anfwering the fignals, which were made them by the rear of our fleet. Our nunfbers only prevented their engaging us, and our Arabs bade us expe(5l: to;fdU in with more veflels of this kind. The fliore of Sanafir is very bold, and would admit of a large Ihip running clofe to it. At noon we faw the ifland of Tiran bearing due weft, and the ifland of Barkan N. W. The wind was ft:ill at S. S. W. when we bore away for the ifland of Barkan. Thefe iflands are botli laid down ' too far to the fouthward in the charts, as is the coaft adjacent to Cape Mahomet. Latitude, per obfervation, 28" 7.' N. At 2 P. M. ' the whole fleet anchored in a cove at Barkan. By running fo deep into this gulf, we could not fl:and with this wind for Cape Mahomet, which mufl: bear S. W. of this ifland. We have here obtained a convincing proof of the neceflity, which boats are un- der to fail in fleets on this coaft. Not more than five months ago, four boats from Suez to Judda, were plundered at this, very ifland of Barkan by pirates, and fome Greek and Turkifh paflen- gers cut off by thefe barbarians. This ftory was confirmed by the teftimony of fome of our fervants, who were aftiore, and faw quantities of wheat and coffee fcattered about the beach. The ■ wind hauled round to the S. E. at fun-fet, but. we di4 not move, . the palfage to the Cajpe being too hazardous, we find, to rifk in I the [ no ] the dark. We were induced, from concurrent circumftances, to double our watch during the night ; the belt part of which the wind was from the fouthward. MONDAY, 7th July. We weighed at four this morning, in company with the other boats, with a light breeze from the S, E. At day-break favv a veflel fome leagues to the fouthward, {landing as we did. At ten o'clock palled an illand within three leagues of the main, which our pilot tells us, is Tiran. This information much furprized us, as in our chart, Tiran lies fome leagues to the fouthward of Cape Mahomet, whereas, by our reckoning, this illand lies in 28° 15', which is confiderably to the northward of the given la- titude of the Cape. There is indeed an head-land to the north- ward of this illand, which we took for Cape Mahomet ; but our pilot tells us, that the Cape beai's S. W. of us, at the diftance of feven or eight leagues. By our run yelterday and to-day, thecoaft from the Cape to the top of the gulf of Akaba, runs nearly N. and S. though our chart lays it down two points more wellerly. This is not the only millake. This gulf is twice as broad as the chart makes it, or we have been failing on dry ground the whole dav. Latitude, per obfervation, 28° 14' N. At I P.M. the wind hauled round to the S.W. and all the fleet bore away to a reef of rocks that we had before paft, and anchored under them, within 3 or 4 leagues of the main. It is a mortification to us indeed, to be baffled in doubling the cape with a wind, which we have fo anxioufly wiflied for, and which is become foul inftead of being fair, by our having run up fo high into this gulf, when we might have flood over dire^l from Moilah to Cape Mahomet. At [ 111 ] At fun-fet the wind, to our great joy, came round to the E. S. E. as it induced the whole fleet to get under fail, which we had never before; done at night In weighing her anchor, the largefi boat among us was near driving upon the rocks. The wind bl w frefh upon them, and it is probable fhe would have been ftranded in a few minutes, had not one of our people fwam off to her in time with a rope, with wliich we towed her out of the danger that threatened her. By the advice of our nokidah, we primed our fire-arms anew, and fate up the whole night, to be the better prepared for the reception of the pirates, who, he afliues us, are acciiftomed to lurk in great numbers about Cape Mahomet. This was doubtlefs a troublefome circumftance, but our minds were fo taken up with our approach to the Gulf of Suez, that there was not room left for difagreeable reflexions. With the prefent wind we were in hopes of making the harbour of Tor fome time to-morrow, and if a chance then appeared of our having a tedious pafTage by water, we refolved to proceed by land to Suez, as captain Dibdin's officers had purpofed to do, which the removing of the cargo of the Judda fliip would, m all likeli- hood, afford us a good opportunity of efFe6ling. The night was ferene, and we flood on with the coaft under an eafy fail. TUESDAY, 8th July. About two this morning the wind fhifted to the N. N. W. and we flood to the weflward, at the rate of three knots an hour. We have left the reef of rocks behind us, or our Arabs would not go on fo boldly on a foul coafl. Jull before day-break we laid down, to take a fhort nap after our watching. By 7 A. M. we were awake, and upon enquiring for Cape Mahomet, were much fur- prized when the pilot pointed it out to us, bearing to the ibuth- ward of us at the diflance of twelve or fourteen leagues. Our difappointment [ 112 ] difappointtiient was great at this information. We expelled to have rounded the Cape before this, and had recourfe to our chart, which only plunged us into frefh perplexity. We could only folve the difficulty by fuppofing, that we had gone much higher up the gulf of Akaba than we imagined ; and were now obliged to fland to the fouthward, in order to double the Cape. At eight we opened a gulf, which they tell us, is the gulf of Akaba, and the head-land which we have come round, and took yefter- day to be Cape Mahomet, muft be the true ifland of Tiran. This coaft has been bolder than any other \vt have pafled ; and what is remarkable, we did not fee aflioal or breaker, the whole morn- ing. Our latitude, per obfervation, was 27' 42' N. We were above half a degree to the fouthward of yefterday, and this tended to convince us, that we had been much deeper in the gulf of Akaba than we fufpefted. We ftood W. and fometimes W. by S. as the wind permitted. At i P. M. we faw two fail to the fouthward, one of which our pilot fuppofes to have been the large boat, which parted company with us long fince. At two the wind Ihifted again to the fouthward, and all the fleet bore away for the land to the weftward of us. At five we anchored under a rocky iiland, within a league of the main, where we found a flrange boat at anchor. None of the fleet, but the pilot's brother, fetched this iiland befidesj but we are told they will eafily join us when the wind changes. Oxir vexation is infinite, that our fituation will not admit of our taking advantage of a foutherly wind. When we have doubled the Cape, we may look for this wind in vain. The pilot points it out to us, at the diftance of three or four leagues, and talks of getting to Tor in the morning. Juft as the fun fet behind the coaft we were upon, the ma- riners of the ftrange boat obfer\'ed a couple of turtles, fwimming from the reef we lie on, and immediately rowed out to fea after them. "f "3 ] them. It is common to turn thefe animals upon their backs, when they are afleep on the fwtfface of the water } but it was a new tiling to us, to fee them taken when awake, in their own element. We could not but laugh at the attempt, but we had foon reafon to condemn our own incredulity. The dexterity of the Arabs was equal to it. One of them jumped out of the boat with a rope in his hand, purfued, overtook, and after a ftruggle under water, faflened a hook to the head of the largeft turtle in four fathom. Itwas,w'th equal facility, run up into the boat, and brought in triumph on board our vefTel. This creature weighs about two hundred weight, and will furnifli a plentiful meal for the whole fleet. The wind kept to the fouth moft of the night. WEDNESDAY, 9th July. The other boats came up to us at two this morning, when we weighed with a fins breeze from the N. W. At three the gale, encreafed fo much, as to fend us at the rate of fix knots an hour. This made us uneafy, as we doubted the pofTibility of doubling the. Cape. When the day broke, we faw high land to our right, which we ftill took to be the Arabian coaft ; as we had not, to our knowledge, parted with it. But as the fun rofe, we were not a little aftoniflied at his fituation, which was quite the reyerfe of what it ufed to be. We loft no time in calling upon the pilot, to explain this phenomenon. He replied without emotion, that we had pafled the Caps during the night, and that Tor itfelf was a confiderable way behind us. We had no compafs on board, but from the fun's pofition, we were certain that we were going to the fouthward. We could not divine the reafon of this, except that the bay in which Tor lies, was deeper than the chart defcribes it. This idea fatisfied us for awhile -, and under this delufion we. flood on at the fame rate, fometiraes doubting the fidelity of our Arabs, and fometimes hoping that we were in the right courfe. Q^ But C 114 ] But we were at length awakened to a convi6lion of our fufpi- cions. By our obfervation at noon, we found ourfelves to be in the latitude of 26" 35' N. which is above a degree to the fouthward of what we were yefterday. The deceit was too glaring, to be fur- ther concealed from us. We had been looking out the whole morning for the Egyptian fhore, as the gulf of Suez is not reck- oned to be ten leagues in breadth. We were inftantly afcer- tained that we were upon the Egyptian fliore. It now ftruck us, that our boat was originally bound for Cofire, and that the vizier of Yambo had put us on board of her, for the fake of referving the major part of the freight to himfelf, which he adlually did re- ferve, by the confefllon of the nokidah during the pafTage. So that we got to Cairo, he did not care by what route. He had perform- ed the Xerif 's orders, in difpatching us from Yambo, and as there is a frequented track from Cofire to Cairo by the river Nile, it is a fufficient referve for the confcience of an Arab. The vizier had often prefied ns to go by the way of Cofire, which we had as often rejefled, from the idea of its being a more uncommon and dangerous road, than that by Suez -, and as we were not compli- ant, he had thus tricked us into what we had determined to •1 ftd <j avoid. In this perfuafion, we charged our nokidah and pilot with per- fidy, and informed them, to their utter ailonifhment, that the fliore before us, was the Egyptian, and that we were not many miles diftant from Cofire. Their ideas of navigation are entirely^ confined to the headlands and flioals, which lie upon the coaft ; and to obtain a knowledge of our fituation from the quadrant, was as new, as it was unintelligible to them. Their fear, how- ever, of our refentment, made thefe fellows at firft perfift, that we were bound for Suez ; to which falfhood they attefted by fwearing by their beards J an oath the moft facred to MufiAiltnen. But what perjuries will not fear lead mankind into ? Their notions of 3 Europeans" [ 115 ] Europeans taught them to dread a detedion of then- behavior. Their ignoraiice gave them hopes of impofmg this place upon us ^orSuez; and they apprehended that their lives would be. the forfeit of a premature difcovery. It was now plain, that they had taken the advantage of the night before laft, to run over to the Egyptian coaft. They had never before failed in the dark, and they artfully contrived to deceive us, undei- cover of the night. All our difficulties were now folved. We had been led to miflake the gulf of Suez yefterday, for that of Akaba. It was directly aftern of us when we awoke ; and we did not difcover that we had made a new fhore. We had not at that time, the moft diflant imagination of the treachery which was intended -»s^ ,We were puzzled, indeed, to account for the courfe we -kept } but the fituation of the coaft might oblige us to change our dire(51:ion ; and the afllu'ances of the Arabs of our being near the Cape, perfectly lulled us into a fatal fecurity. The pen would convey but a lifelefs pi6lure of our feelings in this important crifis. A thouiand circumftances crowded upon our minds, to evince the cheat which had been put upon us. Several boats had left Yambo for Cofire, preceding our departure s and we had been informed, -that all boats bound for Cofire, were ■obliged to make Cape Mahomet at this feafon, before they ftretched over to the Egyptian fliore. The boats that we had joined, were aftually thofe bound for Cofire j and we had failed with them for above three weeks, under the belief of their being deftined for Suez. It is not fo wonderful, that incidents of this nature fliould have efcaped our notice. We mixed but little with the Arabs, and were fuch ftrangers to their language, that there was no occafion for their being upon their guard when they converfed before us. But Ibrahim, our interpreter, had no fuch excufe for his want of difcernment. Moments there doubt- lefs were, when he might have fufpe^ted their defign, if they had 0^2 addrefs -[I ii6 ] addrefs enough to conceal it partly from him. We have no doubts of his honefty ; but from the fimphcity he has betrayed in this matter, draw but a bad omen of his fervices in the enter- prize before us. It is too late to hefitate upon the ftep we ai-e to take. Refiftance is equally abfurd and vain. Neceflity, -with all the force of a vortex, impels us forward. We cannot pre- tend to carry the boat to Suez, contrary to the inchnations of our mariners, and againft the northerly monfoon. We knovr Cofire to be under the Turkilh government, and immediately dependent on Cairo ; and we have the vizier's pafs, to afford us a iafe-condu6t to that place. We have no doubt of the virtue of this pafs, however we have been deceived by the perfon who gave it. He had the Xerif s order to forward us to Suez ; and after he has fo materially benefited by our purfes, we give him credit for an inclination to ferve us, by the means of his mafter's flgnet, which we know to be refpe6ted in all Mahometan re- gions. ' Our minds were fomewhat relieved by thefe reflexions. We partook of the turtle at dinner with apparent cheerfulnefs j and even went fo far, as to adopt their own meafures, and exprefs to the Arabs our indifference, in regard to the port we were going to. In this difpoiition we made the mofque of Cofure, without any other emotions, than what difappointment naturally excites in the human breail. The toils and dangers which we had un- dergone, envenomed the flings of that difappointment ; and af- ter a month's endeavors, we found ourfelves nearly in the fame fituation, as when we fet out from Yambo : not, indeed, fo far removed from Suez, but infinitely in more uncertainty and diftrefs. At 7 in the evening we anchored in the harbor of Cofire; and find by the diftance which we have run, that the ifland we remained at laft night, was that of Shadwan, well known to the Englifli. [ 117 ] Englifh vefTels which trade from India to Suez. As fooh as tt was dark, the nokidah went afliore, to advife the commandant of our arrival -, and to intereft him, as he affured us, in our be- half. To confefs the truth, we had not the profpe6l of pafling the jmoft agreeable night. Our fortune was wrapped up lii doubt, dark as the Ihades which enveloped the creation -, and we anxioufly looked for the returning light, to difpel the obfcurity of the fcene ! Thus, Madam, have I at length conduced you to Conre, ni- ftead of the promifed port of Suez. In purfuing the courfc of this narrative, you have been fubje6led, like the principal charac- ters, to the inconftancy of fortune; v/ho, in imitation of the light ones of the fex, finds a pleafure in deceiving thofe the moft who afpire to the favor of her fmiles. I have frequently had occafion to diffent againft the well-known proverb of the Rq-, mans, " Fortune favors the brave," though I am far from pr^ tending, that the undertakers of this voyage, are an inftance of its fallacy. The fatigues that we have endured in a month's cruize in an open boat, during the hotteft feafon of the Eailern year, and the dangers that we have ran in exploring a wild and piratical coaft, were well encountered for the end we had in view. True fortitude is exalted by oppofition, and, like the fabled An- taeus, rifes with freih vigor from fucceffive overthrows. The prefent moments, when our reception at this place, nay, our very fafety, is precarious, are critical indeed, and teem with events, that may awaken curiofity, and excite the fufceptible breaft to regret the unfeafonable interruption of this narrative. .^^__ If the foregoing fheets have the* good fortune to meet with your your approbation — if they are adjudged to contain the unftudied touches of nature, and intereft the public in the fate of three unlucky travellers — I fliall be tempted to renew the thread of our adventures, and recount the moft remarkable occurrences of our journey from Cofue to Alexandria. The novelty of the track will engage the reader, where bufmefs is deficient ; nor can he wholly be at a lofs for amufcment, in a region fo untiodden, on a river fo celebrated as the Nile ! It is a received maxim, that there is no incident in a man's life, but from which he may derive fome inftru6lion. If I have reaped any advantage from the late fcenes I have been engaged in, it is a ftock of philofophy, which has coft me no little pains in the acquifition j and will, I truft, prove fufRcient to fupport me in any trial, to which the lot of humanity may hereafter fub- jefl me. But to my own fufFerings may my indifference be con- fined ! When I feparate my concerns from thofe of my fellow- creatures ; when I become deaf to the call of diftrefs -, or behold, unmoved, the tear of contrition, may I be rejefted by the more enlightened clafs of fociety, and chiefly by her, who is one of its firft and brighteft ornaments [ I have the honour to be, M A D A M, Youi''s, &c. Cofire, in Upper Egypt, 9th July 1777. A SERIES I 119 ] SERIES OF ADVENTURES, &c. IN THE YEAR M.DCC.LXXVII. IN LETTERS TO A LADY. LETTER II. MADAM, TO prove as good as one's word is the province of every honed man, but more particularly will it be expelled where inclination and duty go hand-in-hand. Whatever may be the fate of my former letter, the fpecious name of honor will infure the performance of my promife, and lead me into error under a miftaken notion of things. The man of honor fubmits his better judgment to the opinion of the multitude, and facri- fices his friend's life or his own, to extend his reputation. In like manner, the author is betrayed by the fecret impulfes of vanity, and is fo tenacious of the empty applaufes of the croud, as to be ftill rifking what little fame he may have acquired, in the purfuit of more. But you. Madam, have to anfwer for this tranfgreffion, and, though innocent of the intention, are un- happily the caufe of a poor author adding to the number of his fms. There is doubtlefs matter enough in the pages which he has the honor to fubmit to your perufal ; but in refpe6l to the manner, he only wifhes that he was poirefied of your talent to cxcufe it to the world. There [ 120 ] _There is a regi'et mingled with the pleafure I feel in retracing my progrefs through a land, which has been renowned from the carlieft times, and is replete with the nobleil: ruins of antiquity. Which gave birth to Cleopatra, and contains the afhes of Alex- ander ! From whence mufic boafts its divine origin, and on wliofe mythology Homer formed the grounds of his immortal work ! The parent of fcience ! the nurfe of heroes ! and the mo- nument, alas 1 of decayed greatnefs ! Too fevere, O Egypt ! has been thy lot ; too fevere an example doft thou afford of the inftability of human glory. It is in thy fchool that the proud ■^ fhould learn humility, the atheift religion ; more inftrudlion will he gain in the review of thy fortune, than from the dreams of philofophers or the leffons of divines. Here will he fee the in- vincible Sefollris vanquiflaed in his pofterity ; the public works through which he meant to hand down his name to lateft ages, yielded to the conqueror. Time ; and his once potent empire di- vided by the fword of infidels ! — The fublime imagery of Shake- fpear rulhes to my mind on the contemplation of this awful fcene, " The cloud-capt towers, the gorgeous palaces, " The folemn temples, the great globe itfelf, ** Yea, all which it inherits, Iliall diffolve," &c. &c. The faireft produ<5lions of art here bear the marks of bar- barous rage, and ignorance ufurps the fields, where learning reared her column to the fkies. The far-famed Nile now rolls his ftream through lonely plains, and fullen laves the fhores, where freedom fmiled ; which Love and which the Mufe were wont to grace ! For the fake of a more familiar ftile, I have preferved the form of a diary in the following nairative. I detell formality, and would facrifice a well-turned period for the appearance of eafe. ( ^121 ] eafe. The reader who looks for connecled accounts, Ciceronian epithets, and pohfhed expreflions, in thefe rambling pages, will be greatly miftaken in the intention of the author; whofe higheft aim is to amufe the curious, and to touch the humane. Loofe hints, concife defcriptions, and unfludied details, fum up the chief parts of a work, which is merely publiflied to promote the interefts of humanity, and to afford a caution to the unwary traveller. There is one thing which he has mofl reafon to fear will be objeded to it, and that is, the want of the marvellous and furprizing, in a region fo involved among the fables of an- tiquity. THURSDAY, loth July. Cofue is fituated in 26° 20 'north latitude, and is the fouthern- molt port on the coaft of Egypt. It has been a place of great note, and is ftill confiderable for the exportation of grain to Arabia, which is brought in the caravan from the Nile. There is a prodigious high range of mountains behind it, which are an exacl counterpart to thofe on the Arabian fide; through thefe mountains is the road to the Nile. The harbor is defended to the northvi'ard by a reef of rocks, which flretch about a mile into the fea ; and to the fouthward and weflward, the land forms it into the fliape of a crefcent. Here is water for fhips of burden ; but without a pilot, they could not venture into the bafon. The fort of Cofire Hands upon a rifing ground ; and is a fquare building of about four hundred yards in circumference. It was formerly ftrong enough, to have withftood a regular attack ; the walls being of ftone, and raifed to a confiderable height. But at prcfent, it is in a defencelefs ftate ; the breaches which time has made in it, being repaired with mud-work, and not more than three difmantled pieces of cannon left to protefl it. The R town [ i2a ] towrt itfelf is in a more miferable condition. Of all the nu- merous houfes which once reared their heads here, nothing but their walls are {landing ; and of the mofques, which good Muf- fulmen eftecm beyond all other edifices, but the remains of two now can be difcerned, and one of thefe bowed almoft to the ground. The reader is here prefented with a view of a place, fo new to obfervation. It is a matter of conjedlure whether, in fifty years hence, there will be any traces of habitations on a fpot, which at this moment exhibits only the outhnes of them. But if the town difplays fo imfavorable an appearance, it falls infinitely fhort of the dreary afpeft of the country around it. So far from a tree being in fight, the eye cannot catch a verdant fpot, whether it fui^veys the mountains within, or the plain that ftretches along the fea-fliore. And this defart is the barrier to the celebrated and fertile land of Upper Egypt ! At 7 o'clock the principal Turk and two Arabs came on board the boat, to invite us afliore, and to acquaint us that there was a houfe provided for our reception. We had pafied but an un- comfortable night, and were overjoyed to be relieved from our fufpence, by fo polite an invitation. We readily accepted of it, and ourfelves and our baggage were conveyed to the houfe ap- pointed for us ; which, though the beft in the town, was little better than an Englifli barn. Here we were received by an Arab of dift:in6lion, whom we found to be the fon of the Arabian fliaik or prince of the diftridl, who was abfent on an excurfion to the Nile. Though the garrifon of the fort of Cofire is un- der the command of a Turkifh officer, appointed by the bey of Cairo, the government of the city and the commerce of the port, are entirely in the hands of the Arabs ; to the chief of whom we are recommended by the vizier of Yambo. This is a piece of intelligence which we have learnt from the nokidah of our boat, and indeed, the vizier could do no lefs, to atone for his 9 treachery [ 123 ] treachery towards us. The young man very politely fupplled his father's place, and informed us, it was his intention to accom- pany us to the Nile, as foon as the caravan, which was daily expelled, fhould arrive from thence. This he confidered as the leaft dangerous and expenfive mode of travelling ; as a few ca- mels would require a guard, and run more rifk of an attack from the banditti which infeft the mountains of Upper Egypt. With thefe plaufible reafons we are obliged to acqui^fce, though the delays we undergo are not the fmalleft mortifications we meet with. Our room was crouded the whole day with vifirors, whofe curiofity led them to view us. Europeans they might have feen here in difguife, but the habit which we wore was evidently new and furprizing to them. Among thefe people there were two Chriftians, who appeared much rejoiced to fee us, and prefented us with a difli of ruflcs, which were very light and pa- latable. They are clothed in the Arabian drefs, which we like- wife intend to affume when we fet out on our journey, not only to avoid the inquifitive and illiberal temper of the natives, but for the fake of coolnefs. The loofe and light veftments of the ori- ental nations are admirably adapted to the nature of their cli- mate; and the numerous folds of the muflin turban, are the beft invented defence againft the burning rays of a vertical fun. FRIDAY, nth July. We had company, as yefterday, to pay us their compliments this morning, for which we are as much indebted to the indolence of temper, as to the politenefs of the Arabs. If we except their hours of devotion, they have no other way of pafllng their time than in vifits of ceremony. Books are entirely negleited by them, except thofe of a religious turn ; and which are more calculated to infufe the gloom of fuperftition into the mind of a Muffulman, R 2 ' than [ 124 ] "than to afFoid amufement. Poetry itfelf, which feems to have Iprung from the pafloral regions of Arabia, is no longer courted nor acknowledged by this degenerate race ; and the names of their poets are more honored and known in Europe than in Afia. Strange as this afTertion may appear, there is nothing more cer- tain than the truth of it ; and it cannot be diiputed, that the pro- pagation of a novel and bigotted faith, has been always attended with the fame melancholy effefts in every part of the globe. The blindnefs of zeal dcftroys every thing that is not intimately con- , necled with the objedl of its purfuit ; and the high-priells of a new-fangled do6lrine, are the Goths and Vandals of the age, _..who overturn the altars dedicated to the arts and fciences. Another Chriftian accompanied thofe who paid us a vifit yef- terday, and we learn, to our great fatisfaftion, that they are waitins; for the caravan which is to convey us to the Nile. There is an inexpreflible pleafure in meeting with thofe of our own re- ligion in a foreign land, and efpecially where the difference of opi- nion is fufficient to occafion the worfl of treatment to a traveller. But it is univerfally acknowledged, that Chriftians have greater privileges, and experience better lafage in Egypt, than in any other part of Turkey. Governed by her own beys, and but no- minally dependant on the Porte, fhe deviates wholly from the falfe ^1 ,fyftem which fubfifts in the Ottoman politics ; and fludies her own intereft in the favor flie fliews to Chriftianity. Too fupine for ftudy, and too proud for labor, the Mahometan refigns the pen and plough to the induftrious Chriftian. But for this defpifed /.tribe, the wheels of government would ftand ftill, and the Nile :would yearly fatten his banks in vain. The mechanics, as well as hufbandmen, are of this perfuafion ; and the fecretaries, as well as moft of the confidential officers of the great and petty princ«s of Egypt, profefs the Chriftian tenets. 1 The V [ ^25 ] 5v The Turkifh commandant has juft fent to acquaint us, by our nokidah, that it Is cuftomary to fearch the baggage of travellers, that the duties of the port maybe levied on any merchandize they poffefs. Though we afllired them that we were fitted out, not as merchants, but as travellers, we could have no objeclion to a prac- tice foufualin all places. In the evening, therefore, we were vl- fited by fome of the principal people, to whom we opened our trunks ; and can fay, that the fcrutlny was lefs rigid, and con- dud:ed with more decency, than in many of the cuilom-houfes pf Europe. While thefe gentry were drinking coffee with us, at fun- fet intelligence was brought us of the caravan's approach, which afforded us no inconfiderable pleafure. The young flialk was informed of his father's arrival, and haflened to receive him. We foon learnt that only a part of the caravan was come widi the Arabian fliaik ; who fent us his compliments, and excufes for not waiting on us, being fatigued with the journey. Hepromifed to ;yifit us early in the morning, to provide us with camels, and to adjuft the ceconomy of our expedition by the return of the cara- .■,van, which would certainly be herein a few days. If we encoun- ter no further delays, we Ihall not repine at being betrayed into this route, which is new, and may afford us matter of curious fpe- culation. As the wind alfo continues to blow from the N. W. quarter, we can the more eafily give credit to our nokidah, who affures us, that our boat would not hax'e gotten to Suez this month to come, and that the feafon alone prevented our being carried to Suez agreeably to our defire. As this fellow feems very earned to ferve us, and has promifed to remain here until we depart for the Nile, we the more readily forget the trick he played us, which the apprehenfions of the vizier's refentment might induce him to commit. That titled villain has principally benefited by our mil- fortunes ; and, were this lafl: evil neccffary to fill up the meafure of them, inflead of paying the enormous fum of 650 dollars for oar [ 126 ] <:>nr paflage to Cofire, we might have been tranfported here at a trifling expence, on any of the numerous boats that trade between Yambo and this place. SATURDAY, 12th July. We were furprized this morning with an early vifit from the Arabian fliaik, attended by the chief people of the town. He is an elderly man, of a good countenance and a polite addrefs, and in every refpe6l anfwers to the idea which an European would form of one of thefe leaders. He confirmed the tenders of fervice, and promifes of protection, made us by his fon ; and feemed willing to difpatch us immediately to the Nile with the few camels he had here, provided we were content to leave our baggage behind, to be fent after us by the great caravan. Though our living on the Nile until our baggage came up, would be more agreeable in refpe(5l to the fituation, and the cheapnefs of provifion, when compared with this place, we determined to wait for the caravan, which we now found was not expelled thefe eight days. And this not only on account of fecurity, but as it appeared to be the v*. ifh of the fliaik, vi^ho declared his intention of accompanying us himfelf, or putting us under the protedtion of his fon during the journey. When this point was fettled, we requefted the fliaik to furnifli us with a camel to carry a letter to the Nile, from thence to be forwarded to the India Company's agent at Cairo, that he might be advifed of oUr arrival in thefe parts. To this the fliaik chearfully confented, and we addrefl"ed the following letter to Mr. Baldwin, and delivered it to the Arab. To C 127 ] To G E O R G E B A L D W I N, Efq. "SIR, <' We take the liberty to acquaint you of our arrival at this place on the i oth inftant. A concurrence of accidents has obli- , ged us to undertake this uncommon route, although it was our intention to have proceeded to Cairo by the way of Suez. As we are charged with difpatches of the utmoft confequence from the prefident of Madras to the Court of Dire6lors, we flatter our- felves, that this circumftance will be a further inducement to your humanity, to intereft yourfelf with the bey of Cairo in our behalf, that he may immediately iffue paffes to Ghinnah and Jirje, for our better fecurity in going down the Nile. We have a prote6lion from the vizier of Yambo to the Arab flraik of this diftrift, who has treated us with great civility, and promifes to fend us to the Nile, under charge of his fon, by the return of the caravan, which is expelled here in a few days. It is with his affiftance that we are enabled to forward you this intelli- gence of our fituation. When we have the pleafure, Sir, of feeing you at Cairo, we fhall do ourfelves the honor to deliver the letters we are charged with to your addrefs, which we confider of too much importance to you to be trufted to this conveyance. " In the hopes of meeting with you in a fliort time, and of cxprelling our fenfe of the fervices which your influence in tlm country may afford us, we remain, S I R, Your very obedient, &;c." " Cofire, on the coaft of Upper Egypt, I2th July, 1777." When the fliaik and his courtiers had taken their leave, we had a continual levee the whole morning, and the durbar of an eafl:ern prince [ 128 3 prince could not be more crouded than our apartments. We treat- ed our vifitOrs with coffee only, as it is the cuftom of the country for every one to carry his principal entertainment about with him, which is the pipe. It fupplies the place of meat and drink, and even thought itfelf ; though they tell you here, that the pipe is the befl; friend imaginable to meditation.' Be this as it may, the Arabs do not feem to benefit by it in this refpeft ; though never did I fee a paflion carried to fuch excefs as this. At noon the young fliaik accompanied us in a walk about the town, and as we palled the fort, we were faluted with one gun : a compliment for which we made a fmall donation to the gunner. In this excurfion we gathered nothing, but a nearer view of the poverty of the people, and the dreaiy face of the country. At our return home we had another vifit from the fhaik, to acquaint us, that the carriage of a letter to Cairo wovild be very heavy, and that we might as well omit fending it. When he named 60 dollars for the trouble, we were not a little flartled at the fum, and fhould have been well inclined to drop the matter, had we not held it of great moment to our concerns. We declined, however, giving fuch an extravagant price, for what we told the fhaik was of little confequence in itfelf. He was called away by fome bufmefs in the midfc of this conference, and our nokidah offered to follow him, and to bring him to reafon in his demand. The fellow accord- ingly went on this embafly to the fliaik, who confented at length to take 20 dollars for die difpatch of the letter. The money was immediately advanced, and the camel was that night fent off to the Nile, if any reliance could be placed on the word of an Arab. The attempt to impofe on us in a charge of this kind, was only confidered by us as an eflay 01 the ftrength of our purfes ; and we are in hopes, from our having lowered them fo confiderably in thejr prices, that we fliall be the lefs liable to impofition, iu our future dealings with the natives of Egypt. Our [ 129 ] Our evening, as ufual, was pafTed in receiving company, among whom we faw feveral people who were to be our fellow-travel- lers. There was a merchant, in particular, who was very intel- ligent, and offered to accommodate us with his houfe, on our arrival at Ghinnah, a large city on the Nile, to which the cara- van is to carry us. He tells us, to our great fatisfadion, that we fhall find no difficulty in procuring boats for our pafTage down the Nile j and that at the eafy expence of 25 dollars. So that our money holds out to Cairo, we muft be content to pay for every inch of the road, through this ftrange and remote country. We have been obliged to make feveral little prefents to the great people already ; but thefe have been confined to pieces of Indian handkerchiefs, and bottles of European liquors. Thefe the Turkifli commandant carried away under his garment,, with all the gravity peculiar to his nation ; and, to heighten the joke, he was pleafed to let the fpirits pafs under the denomina- tion of phyfic. The weather here is remarkably pleafant for this time of the year. This muft be owing to the prevalence of the northerly winds, that blow acrofs the Red Sea to this coaft. Neither are the dews fo heavy and troublefome, as we found them on the. fliores of Arabia. A lucky circumftance to travellers, who have been fo long accuftomed to the magnificent and fpacious canopy of the (ky, that they cannot fleep within doors, or be confined beneath the low and contrafted roof of a chamber. We have a good yard belonging to the houfe, where we pafs the nights. SUNDAY, 13th July. Our charges are confiderably augmented by the price of water, which is become fo fcarce, that we are at times at a lofs for a draught of it. The people here drink of a bad fort, which they S bring [ 13° 1 bring from a fpring at above a league's diftance, it not being in their power to pay a quarter of a dollar per fkin, for fo con- fiderable a neceffary of life. The northerly wind continues to blow fo flrongly, that we have great reafon to think we fhould have been much longer beating our paffage to Suez, than we Ihall be in getting to Cairo by the route we have ftumbled upon. The charafter of our nokidah begins to be again doubtful. After all his promifes to flay by us until our departure, and to fee us provided with good camels, he came to us this evening with the fhaik, and, after a parade of his attachment towards us, pretended to regret the neceflity which called him away. He even perfuaded the old man to declaim in his behalf; to acquaint us that the letter which the vizier of Yambo had fent by the nokidah, was of the utmofl: moment to our interefl ; that we were thereby entitled to the fhaik's prote6tion, as far as his life would afford it j and that he hoped we would remember him, now he was about to leave us. Notwithftanding our indignation was rouzed at the prevarication of this fellow, we did not hold him worth our at- tention, nor did we chufe to let the fhaik into the reafon of our defiring his flay. It was our bufmefs to appear to place an un- limited confidence in the man, whom chance had made the mafler of our fates. And indeed he a6led very impartially on the occafion, and concluded his harangue, with intreating us to confult our inclinations only, when we fixed on a recompence for the nokidah's fervices. We thanked him for his goodnefs, and carelefsly added, that we would think on this fubjedt in the morning. There is no doubt but the nokidah's waiting our motions, might be prejudicial to his affairs which fummon him to Yambo ; but it was our declared intention to have m^de him a very handfome confideration on this account. To have fent advices to our friends in India of our fafety, and of our depar- ture I 131 ] ture for the Nile, was a matter which we had much at heart. This very fellow had promifed to accomplifh it. He has un- doubtedly forfeited all further pretenfions to our favor, fo that the prefent which we give him will be very trifling. MONDAY, 14th July. The greateft part of the morning was fpent in a converfation with the nokidah, and in writing a letter to the vizier, in tefti- mony of this fellow's good treatment of us. His condu£ting us to this place appears to have been more the vizier's crime than his ; and, in fpite of his recent abufe of our confidence, our diltrelTes had not deprived us of the principle of forgivenefs, fo far as to permit us to deny him a requeft of this nature. The fafety of his family, who were in the vizier's power, depended, as he aflured us, upon our word. The addrefs was extraordi- nary enough, to a man who had been the primary caufe of our misfortunes ; and it may be expefted that we did not raifs the opportunity to give a vent to our indignation. But, irritated as we were againft the minifter, we difdained even to expoflu- late with him on his unfair proceedings. We were determined not to afford him matter of triumph, and concealed the effefls which his detefted policy had been attended with. The letter was. exprefled in general terms ; and we bore witnefs to the conduct of the nokidah, as far as regarded his attention and refpeft to- wards us. With this he feemed better fatisfied than with the prefent we made him. We affigned but ten dollars for himfelf and the pilot, of whom I have made fuch frequent mention in the journal of the boat. This was a fufficient mortification to people, whofe expeftations had been raifed by the rewards we promifed them on our fafe arrival at Suez, and whofe ideas of our wealth were fo extravagant. The feveral trifles we had left S 2 in [ 132 ] in the boat amounted to no inconfideiable fum ; but the value of thefe were already forgotten. We were more liberal to the boat's crew, who came at the fame time to take leave of us ; as they had been the innocent inftruments in the execution of the plot, which was devlfed againfl: us in the town of Yambo. We perceive a jcaloufy fubfifts between the Turk and Arab on our account, wliich we have no reafon to be concerned at. As the prefence of the former will prove an Infallible check on the motions of the fliaik, we fliall rather be defirous of fomenting the difference, by paying an equal attention to thefe chiefs, than, by attaching ourfelves to one, run the chance of incurring the refentment of the other. The government of the diftri6t is un- doubtedly in the hands of the fliaik, who holds it from the man- date of the bey of Cairo ; and to his influence we muft commit ourfelves in our journey to the Nile. But the oftenfible dignity lies with the Turkilh officer, who commands the fort of Cofire in the name of the bey, and is placed here as a fpy on the con- duct of the fliaik. They never meet at our houfe but by acci- dent; and then nothing but common civility pafles between them. The Arab, in particular, is uneafy at the frequent vifits of the other, and it is no longer ago than this morning, that he cautioned us to truft to him alone for the fupply of our wants. While the Turk, on the other hand, let us this afternoon into the knowledge of every thing that* we wanted to be informed of. The cuftomary price of camels to the Nile will be but trifling, and we hope, by his means, to efcape the impofitions which we fliould otherwife incur from the poverty of the Arabs, who, in many refpe(fts, are of no unamiable chara6ter. We have found them to be decent in their manners, and temperate in their diet ; addidled to no warmth or levity of temper, refpe6lfal in the laft degree to their parents, charitable in their difpofitions, and humane [ 133 ] humane to their dependents : flriftly attentive to all the forms of their religion, and wholly unacquainted with the unnatural vices which originated in the Eaft, and have long difgraced the Chrif- tian empire. But this affemblage of good qualities is thoroughly tainted by the lull of lucre, which no bounds are forcible enough to reftrain. Their command of mind is applied to facilitate the bafeft purpofes of gain, and their pretended fanclity often ferves to cover fome fcheme of fraud. It muft be owned, the neceffities of people, who almofl live in a (late of nature, muft bear hard on the innate principles of goodnefs which they may pofTefs ; and when the prejudices of their religion, which inculcate the practice of deceit towards Chriftians, are thrown into the ba- lance, it will not be fo much wondered at, that the fcale of in- juftice prevailed againft us : that we were fo maltreated in Ara- bia, or that we fhall be obliged to win our way through the de- farts of Thebais to the Nile, by dint of gold. The young fliaik, after his father had left us, took a liking to a very good fpying-glafs which we had brought with us. As he is likely to be our fellow-traveller, we begged his acceptance of it. At the fame time our nokidah came to take his leave ; and we parted on good terms, notwlthftanding what had paflcd between us. TUESDAY, 15th July. This morning a jar of water was brought to us from the fhaik, which had juft arrived from the mountains. He had heard us complain yefterday of the want of fweet water, and very politely fent this jar to our houfc, which had come for his own drinking. We were content to pay three dollars for the carriage, as we fet an higher value upon water, in our prefent circumftances, than if it were wine. We had an early vifit from the old man, to whom [ 134 ] whom we prefented a piece of Indian chintz for his women. Had we been apprized of our going this road, we might have brought numbeilefs trifles from our veffel, which would have appeared of fome eflimation in the eyes of a people, to whom all foreign articles have the charms of novelty. This man however has feen more of the world than the gen'erality of his country- men. He has been twice at Conilantinople ; and at Alexan Iria, he tells us, he went on board an Englifh man of war of fixty guns, from which he feems to have derived an high idea of the power and dignity of the Britifli nation. He has been comfort- ing us with the hopes of the caravan's not exceeding the time appointed for its appearance ; which now approaches, to our great fatisfadlion. There is nothing to be feen here but fea, mountain, and fky ; and we long to be coafting the banks of the Nile, and to become eye-witneffes of the fci tility and beauty of a country, fo celebrated by hiftorians, and confirmed in our ad- miration by the teftimony of the people here, who are never tired of repeating its praifes. We learn that our boat, and four others, failed this morning for fambo; and that three larger ones remain here to receive their lading from the caravan. The paflage to Yambo can be made with eafe in four or five days. What a contraft to the long and tedious voyage that we ex- perienced to this place ! Nothing is a greater proof of the warlike difpofitions of the Arabs, than the pleafure they take in the infpedlion of arms of all kinds. Our fwords, guns, and piftols, have undergone a thoufand examinations ; and been honored with a profufion of applaufes, not, we fufpe6l, without hopes, on their fide, of pro- fiting by our politenefs. Were a fword or fpear to be put into the hand of an Arab, whatever difguife he might be in, his bent of mind would as quickly betray itfelf, as did Achilles', when he handled the arms which UlylTes placed before him. He is al- 9 ways [ ^3S ] ways armed as if going to battle ; and we never fee any one, whofe profefTion allows of it, unprovided with a pair of loaded piftols in his girdle, a fabre and a dagger by his fide, and a fpear of about fix feet in length in his right hand. In his left he al- ways carries a pipe, which, moderately fpeaking, is not five mi- nutes together from his lips in the courfe of the day. Though this general praflice of carrying fire-arms on peaceable occa- fions, is totally repugnant to the ideas of civilized minds, there is nothing but what may be reconciled to us by the force of habit ; and we now view this threatening apparatus of war with- out the fmalleft emotion. In the evening the fhaik brought us a plate of unripened limes, which, indifferent as they were, we underfland have come from the neighborhood of the Nile, WEDNESDAY, i6th July. We are very fortunate in refpeft to the owner of the houfe we live in. He is an old Arab, of a civil demeanor and a quiet temper ; and if ever a mortal pafTed away an inoffenfive life, it is this hoft of ours. His worldly cares extend not beyond the little ceconomy of an humble roof, and the fale of a few articles, with which he makes fhift to provide for the calls of nature. The only luxury he tafles of, is his pipe of tobacco and his cup of coffee ; and his fole enjoyment, is the tendance of a milch goat, that follows him about with the docility of a dog. The milk of this animal he kindly referves for our ufe; and, indeed, it is ferviceable to us, in a miferable place, where milk is not to be procured. In the courfe of fuch a fimple life, it is not hkely that he fhould imbibe the errors which higher ftations are apt to betray their poflelTors into i anl there is no doubt but the prayers of this poor Arab are acceptable to the Almighty difpofer of all things. Content carries along with it the afpeft of every virtue ; and [ 136 ] and not to repine at the deftiny which Heaven has allotted us, is certainly of more folid importance to mankind, than the at- tainment of a thouHind dazzling talents, which, by fitting us to the admiration of this world, too often render us indifferent to the acquifition of a more glorious recompence. The fliaik and the commandant are become very regular in their vifits to us. By this particular attention we conceive hopes of the caravan's approach, as we do not think they would thus court us through mere form. The Turk is by much the more modeft of the two, which muft be attributed to a more general knowledge of the world. He has afked for nothing but the li- quor before mentioned ; and has received nothing from us, but a piece of muflin handkerchiefs, which we prefented him with lail night. The Arab does not maintain this decency in his con- du6l, though he is by no means open in his demands. He is continually afking us, through the channel of our interpreter, of the things we poifefs ; and this morning defired to look at a curious pair of pillols of mine, which I had carefully concealed from his knowledge. Though I could not learn in what man- ner he had difcovered them, I was obliged to promife them to him on our arrival at the Nile ; when we fondly flattered ourfelves to be delivered from the neceflity of (landing upon our guard. Thefe piftols have a flop upon the cocks, which muft render them fafer to an Arab, who is accuftomed, on a march, to fleep with them in his girdle. The weather was hotter to-day than we have before expe- rienced it, which we attribute to an alteration in the wind, that has blown from the land, though very faintly. Were it not for the conftant gales which prevail in thefe feas, the coafts would be intolerably hot, as the foil is nothing but rock and fand. THURSDAY,. L 137 3 THURSDAY, 17th July. The fliaik brought us this morning a bottle of cinnamon-water under his cloak. We were prevailed on to tafle it, out of com- pliment to him, who fliewed us the example, but we heartily re- pented of it. Whether owing to the ftill, or whatever caufe it might be, there was a copperas tafte in the liquor, that did not agree with our ftomachs. This will be a caution liow we make free with foreign liquors, among a people, whofe ignorance may be impofed on by the venders of thefe articles. We have difcovered an amiable trait in the character of the old man, which has confiderably heightened our opinion of him. He has a paternal regard for his fubjefts, and feems to fliare in any innocent recreation they can take. It was no longer ago than laft night, that a flave-boy, belonging to our company, was playing on the fiddle for the entertainment of the fhaik. The novelty of the found brought a crowd about the gate of the yard, where we were fitting on carpets to enjoy the cool of the evening. The old man perceived them to be pleafed with the mufic, and alked our per million to let them come in. This was no fooner granted, than the yard was filled with people of all ranks, v/ho exprcfled great fatisfaftion and furprize at the fkill of a boy, who might be put on a footing with the blind fiddlers that fet a country wake in motion. The ideas of the better fort of a fimple people, cannot be expedled to be more refined than thofe of the lower clafs of a poliflied nation. Nature is the fame in every climate, and betrays its want of cultivation, by an un- diftinguifliing tafte in the feveral degrees of perfedlion to which the arts and fciences may be carried. The notes of a violin or flute may touch a rude ear with fenfations of delight, although not regulated by the paufes of time ; or how can we pretend to T receive [ U8 ] receive pleafure from the wild notes of the wood-lark or night- ingale ? The truth is, we look not for any excellence in the bird, but what nat\ire has afforded. The fweetnefs of his pipe makes ample amends for the irregularity of the meafure ; and we drink the melody, without feeling the want of correftnefs. We had a vifit as ufual from the Turk, who watches his time, and comes always after the departure of the fliaik. He informs us, that he has juft had a meffenger, who brings advice of the immediate departure of the caravan from the Nile. If this ac- count be true, it muft arrive within two days at fur theft. The Turk fliewed us a chop or fignet, that he received from Ibra- him Beg, the bey of Cairo, nominating him to the command of the fort of Cofne. He is a very obliging and good-humored plan ; and it will be our inclination, as well as intereft, to culti- vate his friendfhip. It is not often that we venture out of the doors of our gateway, except by moon-light, when we ftray down to the fea- fide, which is the only profpect from this place that can bear obfervation. There was doubtlefs fome appearance of cultiva- •tion, when the country was better inhabited, as the moft ftubborn foil cannot refift the efforts of induftry. But as the power of tlie Turks began to decline in thefe parts, commerce failed apace ; the inhabitants of this populous city removed by degr.'es to the more fertile banks of the Nile, and have left it a prey to poverty and defolation ! FRIDAY, i8th July. We received very difagreeable tidings this morning relative to the caravan. The road is fo infefted with Buddoos, or wild Arabs, that its progrefs Is delayed, until a reinforcement arrives from the Nile. It feems that a Ihaik of the mountains, through which [ '39 3 which tlie caravan palles, has lately difappeared -, fo that the fe- curity which the countiy was in from his influence, no longer fubfifts. It is cuftomary for the caravan to pay a tribute to thefe chiefs, for a paffage through their diilri6ts. They are only rob- bers of a larger growth, and openly fet their protedtion to fale, to defend the traveller from the rapine of their tribes. Diftrefiing as this circumftance is, we are habituated to difap- pointment, and are arrived at that happy temper of mind, which rejects complaint in things unavoidable. As foon as a fufficient number of camels arrive, to tranfport ourfelves and baggage to the river, we are determined to fet out, in company with the fhaik or his fon ; our number and fire-arms being fufficient, in our opinion, to put any band of robbers to flight. We fliall, at leaft, make up fifteen camels ; not to mention the Chrifl:ians and others, who might be glad to join us on fuch an expedition. But it is likely we fhall not be reduced to take this ftep, which, at any rate, mufl be attended with rifk. The caravan may come before any further intelligence, as it only waited for the difperfion of the Buddoos, who are between it and this place ; and the pradlice of giving notice of its approach, by lighting fires on the hills, has been difcontinued, fmce the arrival of thefe troublefome neigh- bors. The boats that waited for grain by the caravan, are now refolv- ed upon failing, as its appearance is fo uncertain. The mafter of a boat belonging to Judda, came to us this morning to know our commands. As he feems to be a good fort of man, and this is the only opportunity we may have of advifing our friends in India of our fituation, we are determined to write by him, to the care of Mr. Horfeley at Mocha, who has his letters very pun6lually for- warded to Suez per viam Judda. The Arabs are beggars from the highefl: to the loweft. Indeed, fo facred is the flate of poverty among them, that they hold its T 2 votaries [ HO ] votaries as under the peculiar direftion of Providence. And this humane notion is the fource of that charity, which is the moft general virtue they poflTefs. It is not, therefore, to be v^'-ondered at, that an Arab feels not the Ihame which overfpreads the cheek of an European petitioner. He afks, without fcruple, for what he thinks his poverty entitles him to ; and intrudes himfelf in his rags into the prefence of his fuperiors, from v^^hich he feldom or never experiences a repulfe. A fon of a Ihaik of Yambo is about to return thither on one of the boats, and came to-day to demand a prefent of us. As we were at a lofs what to offer him, the old fhaik flood our friend on this occafion, and gave him two gold pieces in our name, called mauheboops, of the value of one dollar and an half each. Thefe we are to give him credit for when we fettle accounts with the fliaik. In the evening the man came for our letters, which we delivered to him. SATURDAY, 19th July. The air was fo bleak during the night, that we were glad to retire into the houfe, though the place we fleep in is defended from the wind, by the height of the walls. This is one of the fineft climates under the fun, the air ferene and wholefome, and the fky always unclouded. The i^ays of the fun are tempered by the refrefliing breezes from the fea, which conftantly blow during the hotter months of the year. The foutherly winds prevail only in December, January, and February ; and at the changes of the moon, they are fometimes felt for a day or two in the other months. From our experience of this fea, we do not think it pradlicable for a veffel to get up to Suez later than March. But then file may always reach Cofire, whence her packets, and even her goods, may be conveyed at an eafy expence to the Nile. Ghin- nah, a city of Upper Egypt, is fituated about 1 30 miles W. N. W. of [ HI ] of Cofirej thither the caravan goes, and there boats maybe had hi great plenty for Cairo, which is 500 computed miles from thence. This route can be only recommended to a packet-boat with difpatches from India, or to a veflel that lofes her paflage to Suez; as the e.xpence of boat-hire down the river, and the cuf- toms of this port, would prove a confiderable draw-back on the profits of the voyage. But in fuch a fituation, we doubt not that velfels would find their account in coming here, inftead of repair- ing to Judda, as the fnow Adventure had orders to do, to the great lofs of her owners. A treaty of commerce might as readily be effected with the princes of Upper Egypt, as with the bey of Cairo ; if the India Company do not confider this trade as pre- judicial to their interefls. It is not my intention, at prefent, to enter into a difcuflion of this matter, as I acknowledge myfelf but an incompetent judge of it. But if the fpecies of goods which are carried to the Cairo market, and the channels into which they are afterwards thrown, be confidered, it does not appear, that the eftablifliment of this commerce would operate materially to the Company's lofs. The cargoes for this track are chiefly of the fineft afibrtment, and their circulation confined to the ports of the Mediterranean ; fo that it is not to be feared they will inter- fere with the fale of the Company's merchandife*. The Arabs here are much lefs referved in converfation than in Arabia. The fliaik himfelf has mentioned his wives to us more than once, though it is a fubje£l on which his countrymen at home preferve the ftricleft filence. But in proportion as they are re- moved from the land of their Prophet, it would feem that they throw off the aufterity which is infeparable from bigotry. Their features are confiderably relaxed here, of the folemnity that they * It is not unlikely that this queftion will be decided by the Turks themfelves, whofe ficklenefs and rapacity may lead them tooverfet an infant commerce, by means more forcible to thofe engaged in it, than the authority of the legiflature itfelf. afFed [ 142 ] afFe6l at Yanibo j and the old mail reliflies a joke with as much glee as ourfelves. He has juft now gamed much upon our con- fidence by an inftance of forbearance, which bcfpeaks him fome- what div'efted of the rapacious fpirit of his tribe. My European fervant was imprudent enough to venture out in the duflc, into the quarter of the town where the/i/ks dejoie refide. He was difco- vered by the patrole, and after having fufFered fome indignities, was hurried away to the guard-houfe, whence he was releafed by the Ihaik's order, as foon as the report was made to him. This hap- pened two nights ago, and was kept from our knowledge. The old man was very backward to mention the fubjefl to us, which he did at length, on account, we believe, of the mifchief that might enfue to the foolifli fellow, were he ever caught by the na- tives in fuch a place again. Had this incident occurred at Yambo, or even at Mocha, where Grangers are lefs liable to impofitions, there is no doubt but the fervant would have been detained in prifon, until his liberty was purchafed at the price of three or four hundred dollars. The fhaik brought us word this evening, that he had juft re- ceived certain intelligence of the caravan having left the Nile. While he was fitting with us, an exprefs arrived, intimating that a parcy of Buddoos were ia the neighborhood, and had feized a camel and four alTes belonging to the town, which had gone out this morning to fetch charcoal. The old man immediately fignified his refolution to fally forth with a few attendants, and obferve their motions. For this end he borrowed the pair of piftols belonging to me, which he had long fixed his eye upon, and which I had promifed to prefent him with on our arrival at Ghinnah. Fires were now lighted on the different eminences which overlook the town, and the drum beat to arms. Nor were thefe precautions ufelefs, in fuch a defencelefs place as this, which might be plundered with great eafe by a refolute and well- 5 , acroutered [ H3 ] accoutered band. But thefe robbers are reported not only to be indifferently armed, but to be void of all fpirit when they meet with refiflance. The third part may be furniflied with match- locks, ^nd the reft with fpears and fwords. A miferable race, wandering from hill to hill, and fubfifting on the pilfer of ftrag- gling paflengers. We prepared our fire-arms for their reception, lliould they venture to affault our caftle ; and there was little oc- cafion for our keeping a regular watch, as it was not pofTible to obtain a found nap during the night, whofe •' dull ear" (as Shake- fpear denotes it) was deafened by the rattling of the drum, and the chorus of a war-fong. Thefe the Arabs continued until the morning dawned, and, delivering them from their fears, permit- ted us to take an hour's repofe. SUNDAY, 20th July. We find that the Turkifh commandant had every thing in rea- dinefs in the fort, to have done execution among the Buddoos. The gunner this morning was fpunging the few pieces that are mounted on the walls, having drawn, we fuppofe, the charges of powder, which may ferve on a future occafion. The Turk breakfafted with us, and magnified, with the rhodomontade of his nation, the ftrength of his citadel, and the valor of his troops ; both of which, however, we muft confefs, might with- ftand the attack of an army of fuch vagrants, as thefe have been reprefented to us ! Even in this remote corner of the globe the chara6ter of the Turks ftrongly difplays itfelf. Sufpicious of ftrangers, and jea- lous of obfervation, they endeavor to conceal their weaknefs un- der an oftentatlous language. Though he has never invited us into his fort, the commandant frequently talks of the impor- tance of his charge ; and though the contempt which the fhaik entertains [ 144 1 entertains for him is too vifible to efcape our notice, he is wilHng to infpire us with an idea of his own fuperiority. Confcious that his power is daily mouldering away in thefe parts, the Turk grows more and more diftruftful of the Arab ; while the latter can no longer fupprefs the rancor which he has conceived againft his tyrannical mafters. To what lengths this mutual averfion will cany them, time alone can difcover. But this appears pro- bable : (hould a favorable conjun<5lure prefent itfelf to the Arabs, to recover the territories of Egypt, it will not pafs by unheeded. This conqueft of their Prophet's family may return into their hands, and then, by a natural courfe of things, revert to the do- minion of the original pofTeffor. Thus, by a retrograde motion, the chains of bondage may be unloofed, and the rights of the native be reftored to him. One of the prefent fubjefts of our apprehenfion is, that the houfe we live in will not laft our time, fhould the caravan meet with further delays. The rafters are of the date-tree, and in- flead of plank or tiles, the floor is compofed of ruflies laid clofe together. On this loofe fand is placed, and over all tile coarfe matts of the country. Materials of this fort muft have a won- derful elafticity in them ; and every ftep we take, is attended by an univerfal tremor of the houfe. Neither would a ftranger ima- gine that we were better provided in regard to the roof. This is formed of nothing flronger than rufhes, on which flones are heaped, to prevent their being fcattered by the winds. But in this fettled climate the native requires no defence, but againft the rays of the fun ; thunder and lightning being almoft un- known to him ; and even rain a very uncommon vilitor. By the accounts of the inhabitants, no rain has fallen at Cofire for thefe three years paft ; nor does it ever exceed a Ihower or two, when it comes. Of this the ftru6ture of their remaining houfes is an unqueftionable proof j for being rebuilt with mud, and half thatched [ 145 ] thatched with rufhes, one day of rain would mix them with theii- mother earth. MONDAY, 2ift July. Old and defolate as this town is, cats are the chief and almofl only nuifance which we have found here. But we are infelted with thefe vermin to fuch a degree, that no provifion can be fe- cured from their talons during the night. It is to no purpofe to lock the door, when the roof is fo unable to withftand their aflaults, A droll adventure happened laft night, in confequence of the voracioufnefs of thefe animals, which may not be unwor- thy of remark. We had been prefented with a difli of nice cakes by one of our Chriftian acquaintance, which a fervant, out of his great wifdom, hung up. in the room where one of our companions flept. Though the doors and windows were flung open on account of the heat, he thought the cakes would be fafer here than in any other place ; and for the greater fecurity, fuf- pended them over the gentleman's bed. But the very reverfe fell out. When all was quiet, the cats, which had been attradled in great numbers by the favory fmell of the cakes, rufhed in at once from all quarters, and, without the leafl refpecSt to the intended guardian of them, and direfted by inftintSt to their booty, flew in a tumultuous manner towards it. Our companion was awakened by the growling of two of thefe ferocious creatures, who were difputing for a prize on his pillow ; and, finding by the noife which affailed his ears, that the combat raged with equal fury on all fides, he ran to a flick that flood near him, and with an adivity equally new and furprizing, lay about him with fuch fuccefs, that his perfecutors made off" at length with the re- mains of the plunder. We, who took up our lodging in the yard, were difturbed by this uncommon tumult, which did not U continue f 146 ] contirtue Icfs than a quarter of an hour. It Immediately recalled to our minds an adventure of Don Quixote's, with this diffe- rence only, that the prefent was not a preconcerted one. It was perhaps happy for our friend, that the cats had fomething forcible enough to draw their attention from him, or his face and body might have fuffered equally with the knight's of facetious memory. Our mirth was increafed however according to the innocence of the diftrefs, which deprived him of his fleep during the whole night. This was every moment broken by the mewing of thefe animals, that hovered around the fcene of action until the day broke, and difclofed to the unfortunate hero the caufe of his perplexity. ■^ Should we remain here much longer, we fhall not have where- with to fupply the cravings of thefe people, who are continually importuning us for powder, ball, flints, and every article that they fix their eyes upon. Empty bottles are particularly acceptable to them ; and the fhaik himfelf did not difdain to requeft a dozen for his own ufe. Even fuch trifles as thefe have given rife to jealoufies in this Ample place : nay, one of the fhaik's guards has gone fo far, as to throw out threats of vengeance againft our fei*vant Ibrahim, becaufe the preference of a few bottles was given to another. To punifli his infolence, we took upon us this morning to forbid this fellow the houfe. Since our firfl: ar- rival he has been remarkably ofiicious, and profufe of his tenders of fervice ; but as we have always confidered him in the light of a fpy, we did not regret the opportunity which permitted us to rid ourfelves of fo troublefome a vifitor. Sfii m ^o ' TUESDAY, 22d July. ixi \lno iib A boat arrived lafl: night from Tor, in the gulf of Suez, >^hich brings intelligence that there are four Englifli veflels ftill 4 ^.u:?:-j^::l. at t H7 ] at Suez. We may therefore flatter ourfelves with tlve hopes of relieving our friends in India from their apprehenfions for our fafety : the accounts we tave hitherto fent being unfatisfadiory, and their conveyance uncertain. Our fhatk hkewife informed u?, in the courfe of his vifit this morning, that two Europeans had arrived in a boat at Tor, and had fet out on camels for Suez without any efcort, about a month ago. Thefe we know to be the gentlemen already mentioned to have touched at Yambo, and who had the charge of the packet which Captain Dibdin brought from Madras. We could not but congratulate ourfelves on, be- ing carried by this road inftead of that by Tor, which would infallibly have been the furtheft port that our boat could have reached in the Red Sea, at this feafon. Our fituation appears to us in every refpe£l more eligible than theirs. The country be- tween Tor and Suez is efteemed the moft uncivilized in all Ara- bia. There is no regular caravan, and we cannot but tremble for the fecurity of thefe adventurers. Their appearance indeed is a powerful circumftance in their favor ; and it might be better for us, if we were as bare of baggage and money as they are re- ported to be. The fhaik informs us, that another camel and fome afles have been taken by the buddoos, which occafioned his fending an ex- prefs laft night to meet the caravan, and warn it of the danger. The alarm which thefe robbers have fpread through the country, has certainly been the caufe of its extraordinary delay, which is fo grievous to the inhabitants of Cofire, that the Turkifti com-, mandant juft now told us, he has difpatched a camel to Ghin- Tiah, to requeft that an additional guard may be fent after the caravan, to condu£l it hither. A fcarcity of every article of life has been felt here for fome time, and famine itfelf can only be warded off for a few days longer. he jfioci /"' There is a trait in the charader of the Arabs, which is very U 2 difgufting; r 148 ] dllgufting ; but no more peculiar to them than to MufTulmen in general. They are fo dirty in their linen, that though they take great pains to adorn themfelves in gay apparel, this habitual uncleanlinefs cannot be concealed. Their fhirt is of the coarfeft linen, and much refembles the Englifh {hift. Their drawers are loofe, and ufually of filk, and their under garment of dyed linen, except on particular occafions, when it is exchanged for a more coftly one of filk. Over this they throw a cloak of broad- cloth, which is edged with fattin or fur. They wear flippers orr their feet, and. turbans on their heads, of much lefs magnitude than the other followers of Mahomet. The drefs of the women varies little from that of the men. Their fliirt and drawers are the fame, but their whole habit confifts of a loofe gown, which- is gathered up and fattened at the breaft. They take the greateft pride in their hair, which falls down their necks in numerous plaits. But this is concealed when they go abroad by a part of their vails, with as much care as their faces. The vail is di- vided into two pieces, and joins by a clafp on the forehead, which is either of gold or of precious ftones : fo that the fore- head and eyes are entirely expofed to public view. The com- plexions of the females are much fairer than thofe of the men, which mufli be attributed to the care which is taken to preferve them from the fun. In this particular they feem to be a diftinft fjpecies from their fwarthy mates j and are really fo in refpect to the neatnefs of their drefs, and the liberality of their principles. This encomium is but due to their merit, and falls ftiort of the aflillance which we experienced from them in the hour of our- greateft diftrefs. WEDNESDAY, C 149 ] WEDNESDAY, 23d July. We were agreeably ftruck this morning with the appearance of three camels, which were haftening to the town. They brought the news of the caravan's approach. It left the river in three divifions, and travels by eafy ftages towards Cofire. The firft divifion fell in with the wild Arabs who were lately in this quarter, and was attacked by them, and plundered of forty ca- mels loaded with merchandize. It happened to be the fmalleft, and unprovided with a proper guard. The two larger divifions will not be here before to-morrow, and are faid to confift of one thoufand or twelve hundred camels. But the danger we learn is now over, as thefe banditti are gone towards Suez, which is the road to their own country. This is the intelligence which we received from the Turk at breakfaft, and it was confirmed by the fliaik, when he came to wifli us joy of our fpeedy departure. By thefe camels there is little come belides wheat, and we are ftill diftreffed for good water. We have been obliged to drink the water of this place for thefe two days paft : it is very brackifh and unpalatable : but we take the precaution to boil it- for our ufe ; and this has probably prevented its difagreeing with us. One of the plagues of Egypt feems to be renewed to-day, to - our extreme annoyance and regret. We had been quite free from the infe6ls which are continually engendered in hot climates, when a warm foutherly wind has brought fuch a fwarm of flies along with it, as to prevent the pofTibility of obtaining our cuftomary nap after dinner. The whole houfe is filled with them, and not a moment's fatisfa6tion is to be found within doors. This is the firft time that the wind has been in the- foutherly quarter fince our arrival at Cofire -, and confequently 5. is [ 150 ] is the fiifl fair wind that we {hould have met with, had our boat purfued her voyage to Suez. The gulph of Suez is fo narrow, that the wind m\ifl be veiy favorable to carry up a boat fo badly fitted out as ours ; and all attempts on our part to beat up the channel, muft have proved fruitlefs. Though the charge of duplicity againft tlie vizier and the nokidah of Yambo, remains unrefuted, this prevalence of contrary winds is no impeachment of their experience of this fea. The weather is confiderably changed by the alteration of the wind ; and had we a thermome- ter to announce it, I am convinced that it is hotter by many de- grees, than it was yeftcrday. We are the more incommoded by the lieat, as our houfe has not a window towards the fea. V/J THURSDAY, .4th JOLlf.^'*' "? '."""" '''', The jQiaik this morning propofed to us a fcheme of getting expeditioully to the Nile, though he could not but take notice of the heavy charges that would attend it. We had been repeat- * ing our complaints of the delay of the main body of the cara- van, and of the detriment which our Hay here, would be of to our affairs. This was a fine opening for him to benefit by our . necefiity, which he judged was too prefling, to admit of hefita- tion in point of expence. He offered to procure us as many ca- mels, as would tranfport us and our baggage, from thofe which arrived yefterday. For thefe, however, we were to pay double the price of camel-hire to Ghinnah, on account of the fcarcity of thefe animals at prefent. To this meafure we would readily haVe fubfcribed, had not the price he demanded, exceeded trebly what it ought to have done from his own calculation. When he even reduced it, at our remonftrance, to eight dollars per camel, we were ftill at a lofs how to adt. We found that we could not manage without eighteen jcamels, for the accommodation of our- ' 10 .oiriJ Y^fni/oj 1U0 i f^iy^^^ felves, the (haik, and an efcort of ten foldiers, \vli5di'Ife tl-iihSsIs" the fmalleft we can have, and for vvhofe attendance we ftauft pay lixty dollars. As it is impofllble for ns to afcertain the charges that we fliall incur on the way to Cairo ; as the impofitions that we may meet with on the Nile may equal, if not exceed thofe which wc have already experienced, it was but prudent to have an eye to our purfes, which may be exhaufted before we find a friend to replenifh them. But our deliberations on this head, were put an end to by the advice of the other principal people of the town, who came upon us at this critical moment. They re- prefented to us the danger that we fliould run, in travelling with fo fmall a body ; that the caravan's delay was certainly occafioned by alarms on the road ; and that, at all events, it was better for us to wait for intelligence from the caravan, before we attempted to proceed. Nay, they even went fo far as to reprobate the con- du6l of the fhaik, which, in this refpeft, favoured of temerity, ' and an inattention to our interefts. Though we gave not an entire credit to the infmuations of thefe people, whofe jealoufy of the fliaik's good fortune was palpable enough, we had heard too much not to be guided by reafon, which pointed out to us the fafeft path to purfue. Rejoiced as they would have been, to have enjoyed the opportunities which the old man had to pillage us^^ daily, their malice confirmed our refolution, which began to waver, of waiting for the caravan. To our great relief, fome afles which we fent to the moun- tains, are returned this morning, with fix Ikins of water. This we may drink without fear, as its quality is good j but it is ra- ' ther more unpalatable than that we have been ufing of late. The tafte is oily, from the {kins having been newly foaked in that difguftful liquid, to prevent their leaking. We have the agreeable profpe6t before us, of being furnifhed with this be- " verage during our journey through the defart ; as the Arabs, whoft [ 152 ] whofe bufinefs it is to keep the fkins in orde., are too lazy to at- tend to the cleanlinefs of the infide of them. FRIDAY, 25th July, This morning the fhaik brought the mafter of the Tor veflel to pay us a vifit. It feems, that he went in company with the Eu- ropean gentlemen from Tor to Cairo, where he carried his own coffee for fale. We have the pleafure to be eafed of our fears on their account, by this intelligence of their fafe arrival at that ca- pital. It is rather extraordinary, that we fhould have remained fo long ignorant of thefe circumftances, and that the adventures of our countrymen fliould have been related to us by halves. But this has been more the effe6t of accident than defign. The Arabs give us credit for the fang-froid which is the prmcipal ingredi- ent in the compofition of their own minds ; and were carelefs of the communication of an incident of fuch little importance to us, as the fafety of thefe ftrangers. Great events are fometimes ex- hibited to mark the chara6ter of an individual ; while a trait like this will fuffice to fix that of a nation ! From the mafter of the vefTel we enquired feveral particulars of a journey, fo new to our experience, and fo fimilar, in our idea, to the one which we were about to undertake. But little could be gathered from a man, whofe imagination was wholly engroffed by felf-intereft, that could contribute to our inftruftion or amufe- ment. The road, he tells us, lies through a continued defart, on which they travelled for fifteen days ; and, to their agreeable fur- prize, they met not with any interruption or alarm. In the courfe of the converfation we learnt, that this man's veffel is the proper- ty of the fliaik's brother, who is a merchant of Cairo. This con- Keftion of his may be a bond for the old man's good ufage of us j as, over and above his dependence on the bey, his brother might dearly [ 153 ] dearly anfwer any complaint which we might prefer on our arri- val at Cairo. At noon a camel arrived, with intelligence of the caravan's long- expeifled approach. It had halted during the heat of the day in a valley about two leagues diftant, and will be here in the evening. The fhaik confirmed this news in a vifit in the afternoon, and gave us afiurances, that we fliould fet out the day after to-morrow at furtheft. At fun-fet about 200 camels came in, and the reft are expelled during the night. We fent a meffage to the fliaik, to defire he would provide us with camels, and give the neceffary or- ders concerning our departure. This brought him to our houfe again. But the prologue to the fcene was the demand of a loan of twenty dollars, which he was in want of to purchafe coffee. As he was to accompany us to the Nile,. an adventure of this kind would make it the better worth his while, and give him fome em- ployment during his abfence. Thefe were arguments not to be conteftedj at leaft, we fliould have been willing to keep the old fellow in humour, had it been at the expence of double the fum in queftion. For as to any difcharge of the debt, it was the laft thing we looked for. We had been too long acquainted with the ge- nius of the Arabs, to confider fuch a demand in any other light, than a new fpecies of begging. The crafty veteran received the money with many profeffions of gratitude ; and while he proraifed to expedite our journey, we obferved a fmile of exultation on his countenance, which feemed to portend us no good. S A T U R D AiY, 26th July. The morning was ufliered in by a vifit from the fliaik, who was attended by the principal Arabs of the town. We foon difcovered the errand they came upon, which was, agreeably to the national maxim, to fee Vv^hat they could ftrip us of before our departure. X Every [ 154 ] Evtry eye appeared enlivened with expeftation, and devoured in idea the contents of our baggage, which was piled up in one cor- ner of the room. Whatever might be their diffenfions in other matters, they were evidently unanimous on the prefent occafion. We were determined to bring them to the point at once, and de- manded of the fhaik the fum total we were to pay for getting to Ghinnah. This, after fome hefitation and wrangling among thcmfelves, they fixed at 205 dollars. The paper which they delivered to us to explain matters, will evince the knavery and ex- tortion of this race : efpecially when it is known, that the ufuat hire of a camel is but two dollars, and that money bears ten times its original value, in a country where fpecie is fo fcarce. The tranflation is literally as follows : To the government of Cofire for its prote6tion Dollars 1 00 To twelve camels from hence to Ghinnah - - - 80 To pay for two afkaries or foldiers, to guard you - - 10 To a prefent to the fhaik for his company - - - 15 Dollars 205 This fum, added to our other expences, will occafion our be- ing fufferers to the amount of 500 dollars fince our arrival here j which may alfo be placed to the account of the vizier of Yambo. We paid it down, however, on the fpot, and difmiffed our vifitors, who appeared to be well pleafed with the fuccefs of their nego- tiation. While we were employed in^ packing up our baggage, and pre- paring for our expedition, a man of a good mien, and a creditable appearance, entered the room without ceremony, and requefted a private audience on bufinefs of moment to ourfelves. He was of the race of the Seids, who pretend to be the defendants of Ma- homet, and, as fuch, are univerfally refpedted among the follow- ers [ iS5 ] crs of that fuccefsful impoftor. The generality of thefe Seids tread in the footfteps of their founder, and have as flender a title as himfelf to the homage which they demand from the dehided multitude. But fo prevalent is the blindnefs of man, that the fhadow fhall outweigh the fubftance in his fight ; and thefe hy- pocrites, under the garb of a fpecious name, fliall obtain pen* fions from Mahometan princes, who were never guilty of reward- ing merit or virtue during their reigns. I have myfelf known more than one inftance of this kind, while I refided in India ; and was once told by a Seid, who came to folicit charity of me, that he had rejedled with fcorn a purfe of 300 rupees, or 40I. which was offered him by the nabob of Arcot, who was fain to purchafe his prayers at a larger price ! With fuch a confidence, which would lead him into every fecret, and fuch a prote^Sion, which would fecure him from any chaftifement, it is no wonder that the man who now vifited us, fliould have become acquainted with the intrigues of the Arabs, or that he fhould have had refp- lution enough to warn us of them. After alking pardon for my digrefllon, to this man we will now return. When the fervants were difmifled, and the door was fliut, the Seid profefled to us his concern at finding us in that inhofpitable region. That he had heard of our former adventures with fur- prize, and was filled with admiration to conceive, how we fhould furmount the dangers which now encompaffed us. That as our foes were numerous, our conduct could not be too circumfpe6l j and that, above all things, we fhould decline, to the utmoft of our power, any propofal to travel in a body diftin6t from the main caravan : for, as he was convinced there were defigns formed againfl us, the only chance to fnaflrate them, was to keep our perfons and baggage with the croud. However bitter and alarm- ing this communication was, we could not but pay our hearty ac- knowledgments to the author of it. We confidered him as a good X 2 fpirit. [ 156 ] fpirit,' who had aflumed this form to aflift in our prefervation, . and we promifed to hold his friendly caution in faithful remem- brance. The yard was full of people, who were fewing up our trunks in bags, and the fhaik himfelf was fometimes among them .to give direftions. This circumftance obliged the Seid to fhorten our conference, who took his leave for fear of obfervation ; but not before he had recommended us to the protedlion of his Pro- phet, whofe votaries, at the very moment, were plotting our de- ftruftion. Scarce had our humane monitor left the room, when the (haik came in to excufe himfelf from accompanying us. He lamented that fome affairs of importance required his prefence at Cofire, becaufe he fhould be deprived fo foon of our company. But as to our convenience and fafety, they would equally be confulted by his fon, who would attend us on the road. He found no diffi- culty in perfuading us of the truth of this conclufion. Our pre- fent views were to get, in the bell: manner we could, to fome civi- lized place, whofe extent would fcreen us from notice, or whofe government would fecure us from further depredations. In the immediate temper we were in, the ferviccs of the fon feemed to promife us full as much fincerity as thofe of the father. SUNDAY, 27th July. We were employed the whole morning in preparing for oui" departure, which is fixed for four o'clock this afternoon. After all the money we have paid, the principal article of our journey is yet to be provided at our expence : and this is water. Ten new flcins, that hold from three to four gallons each, were accordingly purchafed for the ufe of ourfelves and fervants. And this flock ftood us in no contemptible fum, in a country where good water is dearer than any other neceflary of life. We furniflied ourfelves with [ 157 ] with a kind of biflcet to fatisfy the calls of hunger, and added to .the ftore a mutton-pye of our own making: for cookery was a knowledge to which we had been indebted more than once, for a comfortable meal, fmce we left the fnow Adventure. Our old hoft is almoft the only reafonable being we have met with here. While the reft of his countrymen are racking us to the utmoxt, he is very well contented with a gratification of fif- teen doliar.s, for the time that we have refided in his houfe, which is upwards of a fortnight. We take a pleafure in beflowing on this good man the little trifles we leave behind us, fuch as chefts, beds, and old linen, in gratitude for his fervices, which were not the flighteft to people in our fituation -, impofed upon as we Ihould have been in every neceflary of life, but for his timely interpofir tion. We were obliged, however, to obferve great fecrecy in this donation j which, mean as its intrinfic value may appear, might have excited the attention of his fuperiors, and induced the fliaik himfelf to difpute it with him after our departure. At four o'clock we put on our Arabian drefies, which we had provided for the journey. As we have fuffered the hair to grow upon our upper lips for fome months paft, we are each provided with a tolerable pair of whiifkers; and as our complexions are by this time pretty well tanned by the fun, we hope the more eafily to efcape obfervation. But there is a peculiar charaderiffic in the individuals of every nation, that will diftinguifli them through the difguife of drefs and language. This is exemplified daily amid the neighboring ftates of Europe, whofe habits and manners are nearly the fame j and cannot fo much excite won- der in our cafe, where the whole temperature of our minds and bodies was fo contrary to that of the people, whom we endea- vored to perfonate. Our landing on this coaft, it is true, was known, and our progrefs was every where preceded by the he- rald of rumor. But neither of thefe caufes confpired towards 5. the [ 158 ] the difcovery of our origin, however they might have operated in the feizure of our effects, and the detention of our perfons. Every eye immediately pronounced us to be aUens to the land, and did not require any further fupport of this opinion, than its own penetration. The Turkifh commandant had been very fparing of his vifits of late, which we had imputed to his fhame of feeing us, after the fcene of extortion he had been concerned in. Though we gave him credit for a principle which the Arabs are wholly de* void of, it appears, that we did him great injuftice in our con-^ clufion. In the divifion of the fum demanded of us for the ufe of the go-rernment, the Arabs had not only excluded him from a fliare, but had kept the whole tranfaftion from his knowledge. This we learnt from his own mouth, in a farewell vifit that we now received from him. Whether he really was our friend, or Was over-reached by the fhaik and his adherents, we cannot pre- tend to determine ; and if we thought favorably of this Turk, It arofe from his perfonal civilities towards us, and could not be juftified by the general deportment of his nation towards Chrif- tians. This Turk, and an Arab merchant, were the only people in whofe profeffions we trufted ; though it happened, that their good wilhes were all they could beftow on us. The merchant ^as a refident of Judda, and was here on a commercial fcheme. He had contra6led an affcdion for the Englifh in his native place, and cautioned us frequently againft the knavery of his countrymen, though he was afraid to difclofe his good-will to- wards us openly. To him we entrufted letters direfled to the care of Mr. Horleley at Mocha, advifmg our friends in India of our departure to Ghinnah. The fhaik's avaricious difpofition feems to equal that of his countrymen in general. He has thrown off at laft the mafk of diffimulation, and a^s in his native chara^er. Wliile it an- 9 fwered [ 159 ] fwered his purpofes, he affe6ted the humane patron -, and now he plays the unfeeling tyrant with as good a grace. Our depar- ture is deferred until the morning, on account of the caravan's not being in readinefs ; and the fhaik has taken this opportunity to infmuate to us, that the camel-drivers are not fatisfied with the price we have paid them ! Gracious Heaven ! of what lati- tude is the confcience of an Arab, which is not content with three times the value of his beads' labor ! for three times are we already charged, to what the native pays for the hire of a camel. We are bent upon not complying with this further impofition, unlefs this man fhould be bafe enough to obftru6l our departure. The old fellow and we parted for the night on bad terms ; and he was particularly irritated at our declining to accept of a centry to guard our baggage, which was piled up in the yard. This was- done by the advice of our venerable hoft, who told the fhaik, that his walls were a fufficient defence for our property. This diverted the fhaik's attention from us, and he let drop fome words fignifi- cant of our reliance on a foolifh dotard, who might not be able to prote6l our effefts from the attempts of the town's people. We paid no other regard to this fpeech, than by fpreading our carpets around the baggage, and taking our pofts on the ground, ready to defend it againft the deligns of fecret or avowed enemies, MONDAY, 28th July. *• All's well that ends well," fays the old proverb ; and this, if ever, was verified with us. The fhaik came early in the morning, and looked gloomy. His ordinary falutation was even omitted, and convinced us, that his difcontent was great, and not to be re- moved, but by a compliance with his humour. When a Muflul- man fails in the modes of politenefs, the worft is to be apprehend- ed from his power, which will carry by force the point whicli his addrefs [ i6o ] addrcfs was nnable to nccomplifh. All ceremony was now laid afide, and he told us in plain terms, that he mufl: have more mo- ney. He condefcended, indeed, to place this requifition to the account of the people of the town and country, who had been pef- tering him for buxies, or prefents, from us. That it was our misfortune to be confidered by thefe people as men of vaft wealth, whofe trunks were filled with gold, precious ftones, and rich merchandize, on which it was their cuftom to levy a tax. It was in vain that we remonftrated againft this demand, which was as wanton as unjuft. It was in vain that we referred to the fhaik's own knowledge of our efFe6ls and profedion, neither of which fubjecled us to the taxation impofed upon merchants and their goods. It was in vain that we appealed to the government of Cofire for its interpoiition in this matter, as we had paid fo largely for its prote6tion. The dependants of the fhaik were yet to receive their mite, and he declared in a determined tone, that he could not pretend to fend us in fafety to the Nile, until he had received orders from the bey of Cairo, unlefs we fatisfied the hill- people with a donation of twenty-five dollars. Hard as the ex- tortion was, we panted too much for a return to our friends and country to hefitate long about it j and the fliaik was content with the fum of twenty-three dollars, vv^hich we had kept about our perfons for the extra expences of the road. And lucky it was for us that this money was referved from our baggage, which, in its prefent fituation, could not have been opened for a fupply, with- out expofmg our real treafure, which was not inconfiderable, to the eyes of the fhaik. Sufpicion of our concealed money was the only ground on which he proceeded in his demands ; but a con- viction of it might have operated more materially to our detri- ment. The cloud which had loured in the countenance of the fliaik, was in a moment difpelled, and, with a tone of infinite good- humour, he ordered the camels to the door to take up our lug- gage. [ i6i ] gage. The hopes of our departure were now for the firft time certain, and while we gave orders to the fervants in what manner to difpofe of the things, our fpirits infenfibly returned to us, and chafed all ideas of animofity and complaint. It appeared that during our altercation the caravan had left the town, but was to halt in a valley at a fmall diftance, to be joined by all ftragglers. To avoid the impertinence of the mob that furroundcd the houfe, the fiiaik advifed us to quit the town, and wait for our camels at the weft angle of the fort. After a very cordial and moving feparation with our good hoft, we reforted to the houfe of the Judda mer- chant, and partook of a breakfaft which he had prepared for us. Having embraced him, as a friend who had been raifed up to us from the tribe of our enemies, we haftened to the appointed fpot. Here, as we fat beneath the wall, our other friend, the Turk, ap- peared on the ramparts, and bade us adieu ! At this inftant the camels came up, and we found that they had only provided us with ten inftead of twelve, for the eighty dollars. Nor was the Ihaik prefent to reftify this wilful miftake. To increafe my own hardfhip, my companions happened, as luck would have it, to be beforehand with me, and to poffefs themfelves of the two only riding camels that were in our train. I was, therefore, fain to put up with one of the beafts which carried the baggage ; and not finding my feat fo eafy as I could have wilhed, I confoled my- felf with beftowing an hearty malediction on the Ikaik, for this parting proof of his kindnefs. Soon after we had moved onwards, we were overtaken by the young fhaik and the two guards, who were to be our efcort on the road. They brought us the compli- ments of the fhaik, who had grace enough left to Ihun an inter- view, after this laft fcene of his political farce. The young man endeavoured to palliate the offence, by afibring me it was a mif- take, which fhould be redtified when we joined the caravan. Be- fides the aforefaid Arabs, our company confifled of Major Alex- Y ander. • if J.*^ ] ander, Mr. Ilammomi, and myfelf, my European fervant, two flaves belonging to tlie major, our interpreter Ibrahim, an Arab fervant named Abdul Rullar, whom we had hired at Cofire, and an Indian fakeer, whom we permitted to ride on a baggage-camel, to afllflhim on his route to Cairo, wheie he was bound on a reli- gious penance. We had a couple of mulkets, as many blunder- bulies, and two pair of" piftols among outfelves^ with plenty of cartridges which we had prepared. The fliaik's fon and his attendants were much more completely armed, as were the camel- drivers, who followed us on foot. At two o'clock in the after- noon we joined the caravan, which we found in a valley two hours journey from Cofire. The diflance I computed to be five miles, as, by the beft obfervation I could make now and during our journey, a camel goes at the rate of two miles and an half an hour. Here a fcanty ftream waters the thirfty foil, and about an acre around is covered with date-trees. Under thefe we made a delicious repaft, upon the mutton-pye which we had brought with us. The water is brackifli in this fprmg, and is what the inhabitants of Cofire generally ufe. In this valley we had a glimpfe of the friendly Seid, and it was the laft we got of him. Some of the camels were in mo- tion long before ours, and he pafled us on ane of them. At three o'clock, we moved off the ground, and were not a little ftartled to find that our whole colledive force did not exceed forty camels. The caravan had departed, it feems, when the Seid went by, and the conviftion of this brought his vain pre- cautions to our minds. We could not help expoftulating pretty fevercly with the young Ihaik on this negle6l of his, which might fubjedt us to rilk. But as he laughed at any idea of dan- ger to fuch a body as we were, and talked of overtaking the ca- ravan before it reached the next ftage, we were under the ne- ceffity of becoming quiet, to avoid the appearance of fe^r, which which would have funk us in their eftimation. It was our in- tereft to conceal, as much as poflible, the real motives of our apprehenfion, and to appear to place a confidence in the man, who was become our condudlor. Our party was the fourth of this httle company, and we kept in as compact a body- as the road would allow of, to fecure us the better againft the effe<5ls of treachery or furprize. We continued our way through the valley, which foon became defart and ftony like the hills above it. At fix o'clock we halted to drink coffee, and to feed our cattle. This flage v/as three hours, or feven miles and an half. At eight o'clock the fignal was given for marching, but juft as we had mounted our camels, an alarm was fpread of the approach of the wild Arabs. In the confufion which this naturally occa- sioned, we immediately difmounted, and affembling our fervants, marched diredly to the quarter where our Arabs had fet up a war-cry, and whence the difcharge of feveral matchlocks had reached our ears. On the road we met with the young Ihaik and his attendants, who were feeking us out, and feemed not a little furprized at our alertnefs, and the good countenance we af- fumed in this ugly affair. This we underftood from an expref- fion which he dropped in the hearing of our Ibrahim ; which, joined to the fudden ceffation of the tumult, convinced us that he was at the bottom of it. But whatever he and his affociates intended, the trick failed of any other purpofe, than that of let- ting them fee we were ready to repel any infult. They gave fome trifling reafon for the buftle, which they told us was owing to the unexpected appearance of one of the hill-people, who had threatened to pillage us while at Cofire. As we neither faw this man, nor received any fatisfaftory account of the matter, we attributed it to a defign to try our mettle, and to make what advantage they could of our fears. But we lent a' deaf ear to their demands of buxies or prefents, which v^-e mortified them in Y 2 fayingj [ 'i64 1 faying, were not due to the timidity that they had betrayed. When all was calm we mounted again, and moved on ; our only light the ftars, which fhone very bright. We continued to traverfe the fame valley as before, until two o'clock in the morn- ing, when we halted beneath the hills, and fpread our carpets to take fuch repofe, as our time, and the peculiarity of our circum- ftances, would admit of. The laft llage was fix hours, or fifteen miles, and by our reckoning, we are twenty-feven miles from Cofire. TUESDAY, 29th July. At five o'clock the Arabs rouzed us to get ourfelves ready. We were foon mounted, and began our march ; fading, and not recovered from yefterday's fatigues. We were very folicitous for a jun6lion with the caravan, but from the laft evening's ma- noeuvres, and our difappointment at night, we are by this time afcertained that our feparation had been intended, and confe- quently, that a meeting would be unlikely before our arrival at Ghinnah. In this uncomfortable fituation, our only hope I'efted upon the knowledge which the caravan had of our being in the defart, which we flattered ourfelves would deter our conductors from any open outrage. Befides, we numbered the camels and merchandize of a merchant of Ghinnah among our body, which we ccnfidered as a kind of proteftion ; though whether we owed this union to accident or defign, we could not determine. This merchant, by name Mahomet, travels with us j and we under- ftand, that we are to be lodged in his houfe during our fhort ftay at Ghinnah. He is the brother of one Ally, who profeffed a great regard for us at Cofire j and who is the caufe, we fuppofc, of the invitation which the merchant has given us. The country as we advance, ftill wears the fame barren face. Here [ 165 3 Here and there a dwarf date-tree appears, and the trufle-bufh is frequent on the road, to the great deUght and benefit of the poor camel, who devours it very greedily. Among thefe bufhes we found feveral deer, who muft necefTarily live many days without water in the depth of this defart ; except that, like the rein-deer, who digs with certainty for provender beneath the fnow, they fupply themfelves with water from a fimilar practice. The Arabs find fprings in particular fpots, and I doubt not but nature has implanted in thefe poor animals the inftin6l to fatisfy one of her loudeft calls. We likewife faw numbers of quail, and feve- ral earths of an unknown animal ; probably of the hare and gerbua, which are common in the defarts of Arabia, but did not come within our view. This country would be truly romantic, were it covered with verdure. The variety of flopes and declivi- ties with which it is interfperfed, the frequent viftoes which the openings between the hills afford, would prefent the beautiful fcenes of nature, were the foil fertilized, as they do the fublime, in their rude and fterile ftate. The mountains contain both ala- bafter and marble, of which many pieces lie fcattered upon the road. We made a long and fatiguing march, and at eleven o'clock halted in a pafs between the mountains, where the Arabs dig for frefli water, and find it very good. They have nothing indeed to do, but to remove the dirt with which the fpring is choaked up ; and as the water is drawn before its tranfparency returns, we ftrained it through a cloth to take off the foulnefs. The moun- tains here are fo perpendicular, and approach fo clofe together, that at noon there is a fliade on the fouth fide for travellers to repofe under. We had centinels on the heights during our flight repafl, as this place has the charadter of being very dangerous. The lafl flage was fix hours, or fifteen miles. At one o'clock we moved onwards with a plentiful fupply of water, and went near a mile through this pafs, which winds about like the entrance of an. [ i66 ] an Indian fortrefs ; and where an handful of men might check the progrefs of a large army, were the country worth difputing for. The wind was very hot from the vicinity of the rocky mountains, and this day's journey proved very laborious to us, who had led a fedentary life for fo many months paft. Our minds indeed had been fufficiently exercifed, but our limbs were enfeebled from eafe and ina6livity. We had no refrefliment, but fome bifcuit and water, during the day, though our conduclor, who was well mounted, puflied on frequently before us, and had his cup of coffee with his friends, beneath the fhade of fome projedting hill, that afforded fuel for a fire. This our camels would by no means admit of our doing; and though coffee would have been the beft recruit which our fpirits could have received, we could only repine in iilence at the young man's neglefl. At five o'clock we halted on a plain to refrefli ourfelves. This ftage was four hours, or ten miles. At feven o'clock in the evening we moimted again, and for the firft time afcended an eminence by a very eafy approach. We quickly regained the level country, and advanced at a fafter rate than by day, through the vallies in which we are conftantly bu- ried. The night was as bright as the lafl, and we Ihould think it a lucky incident were we to lay by in the day, and to travel only by night. At two o'clock in the morning the moon rofe, which was the fignal for us to halt. And much indeed did we fland in need of repofe, after a journey of fuch a continuance. Befides, we luffered greatly from the uneafy motion of the ca- mels, which nothing but habit could reconcile to a man. For my own part, I am fo particularly aggrieved by the faddle of the camel on which I ride, that the fmall of my back is Uripped of its fkin. This arifes from my flill being furnifhed with a bag- gage-beaft, notwithftanding the fine promifes of the young lliaik. Authors are much miftaken in their particular ideas of this ani- lo mal. [ i67 ] mal. His being able to go from i oo to 1 50 miles in the twenty-four hours, is a very fable. Perfeverance and hardinefs are the qua- lities which diftinguifli him above all other quadrupeds, and pe- culiarly adapt hihi to the barren countries, where he is found in the moil vigorous ftate. His common pace does not exceed three miles an hour, at which rate he will go fixteen hours out of the twenty-four, for a journey of a month and upwards. But put him beyond his ufual fpeed, and he foon tires. For a day indeed it may be quickened to five, and even fix miles an hour ; but he fliortly grows obftinate, and refufes to proceed at a rate fo dif- proportioned to his abilities. He is however very docile, and when trained to a caravan, requires neither a rein to guide, nor a whip to forward his motions. To a ftranger nothing can be fo ineligible as this mode of traveUing ; tedious and fatiguing to the laft degree, and efpecially in thefe parts, where we could not pro- vide ourfelves with litters, to defend us from the fcorching rays of the fun. Our courfe yefterday and to-day was generally to the northward of weft, and fometimes weft and by fouth, and due v^^eft. The laft ftage was feven hours, or eighteen miles, and by our reckoning we are nov/ feventy miles diftant from Cofire. V/ E D N E S D A Y, 30th Jult. At five o'clock this morning we were wakened from our fleep, which had been very found, notwithftanding the fufpicious com- pany we are in. We got up more alTured of the good faith of our conduftor, feeing that no attempts had been made to furprize lis, at a feafon when exhaufted nature had left us at his mercy. At a moment of fuch alarm, there was fomethiug particularly aggravating in our fituation. Worn out vv^ith the labors we had undergone. Deep infenfibly ftole upon the moft determined eye; and the common fatisfaftion of keeping a watch at leaft upon tlie motion [ i68 ] motions of an enemy, was denied us. Short as our nap was, it -gave us fpirits to purfue our journey. But this might not long have proved the cafe, if we were to obtain but two hours repofe out of the twenty-four, in travelling to any confiderable diftance. Before we had gone far, my European companions and my- felf began to find our bowels greatly afFecled by the water which we got yefterday. This, at all times, is an alarming complaint ; and nothing but our fuppofed vicinity to Ghinnah, could have adminiftered confolation to our diftrefs. We entered, after an hour's march, upon a large plain, fterile and flony like the moun- tains which we now left behind us. It is a circumftance worthy of remark, that we never crofTed any confiderable acclivity in our paflage through this defart ; though at every point of view, the traveller fuppofes he has a laborious height to afcend, and that he muft make his way good, by conquering the ftupendous precipices which continually prefent themfelves before him. But indulgent nature has accommodated the country to the neceflities of the native. Throughout the hilly region, which extends it- felf from the Red- Sea to the Nile, fhe has fcooped out a line of vallies for the paflage of the caravan. The foil is a mixture of flone and fand, which, beaten down by the conftant tread of the fplay-footed camel for many centuries paft, affords an even and firm pavement to the beafts that travel over it. The road is wide enough in feme places for an army to pafs in a line ; and in others, will not admit above two or three camels abreafl:. This country muft have experienced a fad reverfe, were it ever fo fruitful as the antients have reprefented it. For the laft fifty miles we have not met with any tree but the hawthorn, or any verdure but what the fweet-fcented fhrubs faintly afford the fight ; and now that we are within a few leagues of the Nile, the profpcct is not mended for the better. At eleven o'clock we halted under a fpreading hawthorn to breakfaft ; but had not as 3 yet [ 1^9 ) y€t a gllmpfe of the Nile, or any token of our being in the neighborhood of fo fine a river. The laft ftage was fix hours, or fifteen miles. Here, to our great aftonifliment, we found that our water was expended. This muft have been owing, as much to thefts in the night, as to the impudence of the camel-drivers, who, as we go along, draw water from our fkins in defpite of us, though depending from the beafts on which we ride. The info- lence of this tribe is furprifing. Though their camels are hired by us, they pretend to a right of mounting them themfelves, when they are weary of walking. Thus, do the poor baggage- beafts groan, at times, under the additional burden of a man's weight. It was as much as I could do to keep my camel-driver from getting up behind me j and my friend, the major, was not fo fortunate, whofe driver once effe6led a feat on his camel, in defiance of his remonftrances, and threats, to deter him from iuch a piece of afiTurance. At one o'clock, the young fhaik moved forward, to procure lis a fupply of water from fome fprings which lie out of the road ; and we propofed to remain here during the heat of the day. But we prefently difcovered fomething that made us haflen our depar- ture. There was a certain Arab, whom I have already mentioned to have rendered himfelf very difagreeable to us, during our abode at Cofire. This fellow had been appointed by the lliaik as one of our guard ; and was at this very time under the fliade with us. By his afllduity on the road, he had tried to efface the unfavorable idea we bad of him ; and as our friend, he now in- finuated to us, that it was better for us not to truft ourfelves at Ghinnah, where the inhabitants were profefied rogues, and would plunder our efFe6ts. Nay, he went fo far. as to propofq to condu6l us to Banute j a town a few hours higher up the river, where he could enfure us the beft reception, and a choice of boats to tranfport us to Cairo, This circumftance was too Z barefaced [ 170 ] barefaced not to alarm us, and we determined to pufii on, through an almoft infupportable heat. But our conduflor was abfent, and we were left in the hands of our gtiard and the ca- mel-drivers ; a force which indeed we did not fear, but would have been glad to be quit of in a folitary and inimical place. This refolution was confirmed by Abdul Ruflar, our Arabian fervant, who was entitled to credit from his paft behavior. He advifed us by no means to liften to, or remain with thefe rafcals; but to follow the young fhaik, whom they had the confidence to tell us was a foolidi youth, who did not know our interefts. Ac- cordingly, at two o'clock, we mounted our camels, in fpite of their importunities to wait until the evening, and moved on, in the moft fultry day I had ever felt in the Eaft. We foon re- joined the merchant's camels, which had taken fhelter under a thorn-tree at fome diftance, and were ready to attend us. While united with this body, we did not fear going aftray ; and purfued our coui'fe, under a full fecurity of being on the road to Ghin- nah. We had no water, but what our earthen guglets contained ; and this was foon expended. It is impoflible to defcribe what we fuffered from heat and thirft during this ftage. A mouthful or two of dirty water, which one of our guai'ds gave me, made me forget for the moment his recent infolence ; and all our for- mer apprehenfions were infenfibly fvvallowed up in the more painful idea of falling viftims to thirft. Our tongues actually became parched to our palates ; and we were obliged to wet them every now and then, with fpirituous liquors, to prevent fufFoca- tion from the clouds of duft which continual whirlwinds threw' around us. This expedient was but tranfitory, and ferved in- deed to encreafe the rage of thirft. It was our common mif- fortune alfo to labor under a violent complaint in our bowels j and to the want of the bad water that occafioned it — a want which we had lamented in the moft eameft manner — our pre- fervatian [ 171 I fervatlon was probably' owing. I was fo afflided myfelf with this diforder, that i could fcarcely fit my camel through excefs of pain. The wind and duft had equally afFedled our fight, fo that we wan- dered on in agony and darknefs. There is no doubt that our Arabian companions partook in fome meafure of our fufFerings ; but they were too much accuftomed to the fun, to feel all the ef- fefls of his fury ; and we had fome reafon to fufpeft, that their ftock of water lafted long after ours had failed us. To crown this Icene of diflrefs, we at length overtook the fliaik, who, we learnt, had been difappointed in replenifhing his fkins, by the appearance of wild Arabs about the fprings. This news founded like the knell of death in our ears ; not from the neighborhood of thefe robbers, who were once fo formidable to our fears, but from the abfence of a fluid, on which we fuppofed our lives to depend. Faint and fpiritlefs, therefore, we toiled on until eight o'clock at night, when we halted, without having encountered any foe in the way. But far different was this halting-place from any other we had come to. Without a draught of water to moiflen our throats, it was impra6licable to force down a morfel of bread ; and the pain and wearinefs under which our bodies labored, were too extreme to admit of a momentary repofe. Overwhelmed with hunger, thirfl, and fatigue, we fat ourfelves upon tiie ground, and revolved our melancholy fituation in filence. Every fkin was alternately ranfacked by us for water, and not an article left un- tried that was likely to produce the leafl moiflure. My compa- nions and I had unluckily recourfe to raw onions, which were among the baggage. But no fooner had we tafted of this potent root, than we repented of our raflinefs. The effect was quite con- trary to our hopes ; and our drought was irritated to the highefl degree. This flage was fix hours, or fifteen miles. At nine o'clock the word was given to refume our march. The doubtful light of the ftars, and the evils we endured, prevented Z 2 our t 172 1 bur feeing clearly what was going forward. But our Arab fer- vant foon alarmed us with the inteUigence of our having-left the merchant's camels upon the ground ; and by fome words which, the drivers had let drop in his hearing, that they had but a bad opinion of the fhaik's intentions refpecling us. The fcene was now become very critical, and a cataftrophe not very happy, appeared likely to enfue. We rode up immediately in a body to our fraudulent conductor, and charged him with treachery to» Wards us. We inftanced his firft having parted company with, the caravan, and then with the merchant's camels, which being both bound for Ghinnah, plainly indicated his unfriendly defiga of canying us to another place. To our great furprize, he ac- knowledged the charge of deceit towards us.in this particular, but endeavoured to diveft it of any fuiifter motives. That it was his father's opinion, as well as his own, that our departure might be retarded at fuch a city as Ghinnah, from the rumor of our riches, which would induce the officers of government to vi- fit our baggage. That he had it in command from him to leave the caravan at the firft ftage, and to cany us by another route, without awakening our fufpicions, which he muft confefs his countrymen had given too much caufe to be directed againft them. That the merchant's camels, from which we had juft parted, would reach Ghinnah m a few hours ; and that we fliould arrive about the fame time at Banute, a village fomewhat higher up the Nile, where we might embark fecretly, and without moleftar tion for Cairo. There was fomething as plaufibie in the fub- ftauce of this defence, as engaging in the delivery of it. That eoolnefs of temper, and ready eloquence, for which the Orientals are fo confpicuous, were fully exerted on this occafion. From the former declarations of our guard, and the prcfent confeflion of the fhaik, we were aiTured there was a combination againft us ; but whether it had any ill tendency, we could not fo eafily deter- mine. f ^7^ ] mirie. In truth, we Were now in the power of our guides, and our deliberations could only terminate in a refolution, to fell our lives as dearly as poffible, fhould they attempt to play us falfe. There was but little variety in the fcene during the remaindei' of this ftage. The night was too dark to favor our obfervation of the objects around us, if our misfortunes had not extinguiftied every fpark of curiofity within our breafts. Hour fucceeded hoiu', without a veftige of fertility appearing, to announce a fpeedy pe- riod to our troubles ; and we were almoft funk into a fit of de- fpair, when the fight of a camel, bearing two fkins of water, raif- ed us in a moment to the pinnacle of joy ! Colors would be faint to exprefs the tranfports of wretches half-dead like us of thiifl, at fuch a change 1 We owed this fupply to the good-nature of the fhaik, who puflied on before us to the river, to relieve our diftrefs ; and I muft do him.the juftice to own, that no fervice could have been more material than what he rendered us on this occafion. Nor did.it pafs unrewarded. It reftored him to our good graces, and we renewed our promife of an handfome donation on his putting us into a boat. Before I ventured to diink, I had the precaution to wafh my mouth, and to gargle my throat feveral times. I recommended the fame method to my companions, and" I: do not believe it was unferviceable, as the extreme drynefs of our palates would otherwife have obliged us to fwallow a quantity that might have proved fatal to us. But ftill we drank with great eagernefs and pleafure. And it is not to be wondered atj conlider- ing the goodnefs of the water, and our long abftinence. We were now within a mile of the Nile, and at three o'clock arrived at a village compofed of tents and huts. We made no difturbance in unlading our baggage, and having flretched our carpets upon the ground, betook ourfelves to a fliort, though found, repofe. The lafl ftage was fix hours, or fifteen miles ; fo that we travelled yef- terday no lefs than eighteen hours, or forty-five miles ; an amaz- ing Ing ftretch, if our calamitous fituation be confidered. This part of tlie^Ni4e-, hy our reckoning, lies 115 iniles to the weft of Gbfire. THURSDAY, 31ft July. We awoke this morning long after the fun had rifen, and, upon looking around us, had the pleafure of feeing the Nile, which now began to be gilded with his early beams. We'v^'^re tiear a ■quarter of a mile from the river, and could only obtain a view of the water through different openings in the bank. Here the bor- ders are adorned in fevera4 places with the date and other fruit- trees J though the cotintry around wears the fame dreary afpefl as before. In one of thefe verdant fpots lies the village of Banute ; the place we are in, being lonely and uncultivated, and confiding of a clufter of cottages, the property of fome camel- drivers. No- tliing can more evince the magnificence of this celebrated river, than its breadth at this diftance from the fea. It appears to our eye not much lefs than a mile wide ; though, with its windings, it cannot run acourfe of lefs than 700 miles, from its leaving Ba- hilte, until it difcharges itfelf into the Mediterranean. The young fliaik was abfent fome hours, and brought us the difagreeable tidings, that no boat could be procured in this neigh- bjrhood. We were now reduced to the indifpenfable neceffity of leeking one at Ghinnah ; and the fhaik left us, to get frefli camels to carry us to that city. We are again inclined to doubt the er- rand on which \^'e came here ; but whatever may have been the view of our conduclor and his aifociates, a folution of their odd conduft cannot be very remote. While our patience is thus ex- ercifed in refpeft to our mhids, it is not lefs fo in a cafe of equal importance to our bodies. Though we have fafted, in a manner, for three days paft, we are afraid to fend to Banute for a fupply of 1 meat [ 175 1 meat and fruit : the inhabitants, we learn, are impudent beggars, who would not wait our beftowing alms upon them, (hould they happen to be apprifed of our fmall number. A pretty fpecimen, indeed, of a place which has been recommended to us by our guard ! But the humble diftance which the fliaik keeps, fhews plainly his opinion of it. A pair of pigeons which this place af- forded, ferved julf to allay the appetites of our company; and as we had no money at hand, the (haik lent us a couple of dollars to pay for them and fome dried dates, which we took with us to eat ijpon the road. \ At three o'clock , in tlie afternoon we quitted this miferable village, and fet out for Ghinnah, in tolerable health and fpirits. Whether we owe ovir recovery to the falubrious water of the Nile, or to a ceflktion of fatigue for the laft twelve hours, we arofe this morning with a perfect freedom from our late com- plaint. Our faces were now turned to the north, and we went for the moll part of this ftage in the fame direction. This was no unpleafmg circumftance, as we thereby prefented our backs to the fun, which had fo dreadfully annoyed us yefterday. At four we entered a fandy valley, where we faw an herd of deer. When we mounted the hills beyond it, we had a glance, for the firft time, of a cultivated country. The Nile appeared about two miles to the weilward, wailiing the foot of the mountains by which it is fkirted on that fide. To the eaftward, the whole fpaee between us was laid out in plantations of grain, which were watered by inlets from the river. There was as extraor- dinary a contrail in the profpe6l before us, as could pofiibly occur in the wantonnefs of nature. The fcene to our left, ver- dant, and crouded with clumps of ilately trees, which were bounded by a fine river ; while that to the right was barren as before, and offered nothing but fands and ilony mountains to the eye. Ouj* t 176 1 Our company was reduced by the abfen<:e of our guard, who had got the flart of us on the road by the. (haik's orders, fo that we could not mufter above ten camels, had we been in the way of danger. At five o'clock we palled by the ruins of a large village, which our guides tell us has long been abandoned, on account of robbers, who were continually plundering the pro- perty of ;the inhabitants. Here we were alfo deferted by the fliaik, who gave us notice of his intention to pufti on to the city, to prepare an houfe for our reception. He aflured us, that he could anfwer for our fafety on the road, and at Ghinnah, where he would introduce us under cover of the night, and pre- vioully provide for our embarkation. Whatever relu6lance we might have towards this ftep, it was impoffible to fruftrate it, and he put his camel on at fuch a trot, as made us lofe fight of him prefently. We were even worfe provided with cattle than before, and on ^ur endeavoring to mend their pace to keep up with the fliaik, we received remonftranees from the owner againft hurrying his camels. This fellow attended us, and was as furly a dog as I ever met with in my life. When he found that my companions and I paid little regai'd to his words, he had the impudence to make Abdul Ruffar, our Arab fer\'ant, and the poor Hindoo, alight, and trudge along on foot, under pretence that the beafts they rode, were overladen. When we were apprized of this circumftance, we rated the owner foundly for his uifolence. But he remained inflexible, and I know not to what a pitch our difference would have arifen, if Abdul Ruf- far had not wifely urged us to acquiefce in a thing, which he now pretended was a matter of choice. He had great merit for his prudent interference, at a time when we were about to for- get the reftraint we were under in this Mahometan region. And happy would it have been for the Fakeer, if he could have yielded to circumftances with equal temper. But his fpirit was 7 fo [ 177 ] fo wounded at the indignity which had been offered him, that he took the firft opportunity of remounting his camel, unob- ferved by the owner. We were at this junilure fome hundreds of yards ahead, and were not a Httle furprized to hear the moll lamentable outcries in our rear. Thefe proceeded from the un- fortunate Fakeer, whom we beheld under the difcipline of the Arab's flick, but urging his beaft forwards, without betraying the leaft defign towards quitting his feat. As we approached him, his confidence feemed to redouble, and he began to pour forth the vileft abufe on his antagonill in the Moor language. It was perhaps conducive to his fafety, that the Arab did not under- ftand him, who, at our inftance, not only defifted from the affault, but left him in quiet poffeffion of the camel. This fo elevated the fpirits of tlie Hindoo, that giving more credit to his own vo- ciferation than to our fupport, he defcanted largely on his own courage and rank in life, which he averred was formerly a Sube- dar, or commander of Sepoys in the Engliih fervice. As this man had hitherto kept a centinel on his lips, we did not regret the rude manner in which they had been put off their guard ; as the many ftories which now fell from them, ferved, in fome meafure, to banilh painful reflexions. But, indeed, the fcene v^hich now difclofed itfelf, quickly abforbed our attention. After a fix months confinement in a fliip, and in barren countries, it was not with- out an exquifite fatisfa6lion that I beheld the earth cloathed again in green, and adorned with her faireft ornaments of wood and water. The captive, who has long pined in a gloomy dungeon, could not experience more joyful emotions at the fight of day, than animated me on this occafion. I looked about me with fen- fations unknown before. I called to my camel-driver to gather every bloffom that the bullies afforded, which my imagination fupplied with fragrance ; and this part of the Nile, which would appear contemptible when "oppofed to the rudeft banks of the A a Thames, [ I7S ] Thames, was to mc fraught with numberlefs beauties. We now, for the fuft time on our journey, beheld the marks of agricul- ture. The people were in fome places tending their cattle, and in others following the plough. The river difcovered itfelf at va- rious breaches in the banks, about two miles to our left ; and we faw wells that were worked by * pacotahs, as in India. Water- channels now interfe^led the road, to fupply the country to the risrht of us, which here besran to be cultivated. At thefe channels our poor camels halted, and drank with the eagernefs and perfe- verance of creatures unaccuftomed to quench the heavieft call of nature, which I may fafely pronounce to be thirfl. I can truly fay, that, during the laft three days, I have not eat an ounce. Meat we had not, and I could never get down above a mouthful or two of bread. My companions were nearly in the fame fitua- tion ; which can only be attributed to our ftomachs having been overcharged with the quantities of water, which the heat andduft obliged us to fwallovv. Between the time of our feeing the ruined village and fun-fet, we counted not lefs than a dozen defolated towns, which we were given to underftand had been unpeopled on the fame account : fome large, and the houfes ftill {landing ; and others defended by walls and towers, whofe remains are ftill refpeftable. Were a traveller allowed to indulge a conje6lure on a curfory view of things, I fliould rather fufpe6l that thefe ruins were of far greater antiquity than the modern inhabitants of Egypt imagine; and that time, the grand deftroyer of all human fyftems, had depopulated thefe parts, and not the dread of the roving Arabs. When the • A,pacotah is a machine of a very fimple conftruftion. By the means of a long bamboo, fixed acrofs a maft, a fingle man will raife water from the depth of ten or twelve feet, by walking up and down the bamboo. During this leifure movement, the man above encourages himfelf with a fong, in which he is accompanied by his fellow, vho flays below, to diftribute the water as it comes up in the bucket. Saracens I ^79 ] Saracens over-ran Egypt, whole cities muft have yielded to the deftraflive tide ; and while the bloody conteft fubfifted between them and the Turks, the reft were involved in the general wreck of this country's grandeur. I particularly remarked the ruins of one town, fituated on two hills to the right of the road, and join- ed together by a wall which runs acrofs the valley. The front of this town ftili extends itfelf a mile, and its towers and hum- mums, which are of ftone, are many of them in tolerable repair. Our guides had, indeed, names for this, as well as fome of the reft of thefe places ; but being of Arab derivation, they could throw no light on the fubje6l of our enquiry. The night was very bright, from the countlefs hoft of ftars which are wont to lliine with unclouded luftre in this ferene he- milplieie, A full hour before we reached Ghinnah, we left our northern dire6lion, and travelled due weft. The many gardens and plantations that we pafted, announced our vicinity to the city, where we arrived at nine o'clock. At our entrance we went by a large mofque, which was illuminated, and full of people, who were attending divine fervice. We faw many good houfes and ftreets, before we reached the lodgings that had been provided for us. Here we were houfed at half paft nine, without having met with any adventure that could tend to a difcoveryof ourperfons. The manfion feems large and commodious, and belongs to the merchant whofe camels accompanied us the greateft part of the way. He welcomed us with great cordiality, and, having feen our baggage carried up ftairs, lighted us himfelf to our apartment, where fome new bread and frefh dates were ferved up to us. Dur- ing our repaft the merchant Mahomet, his brother Ally, and the Ihaik, attemled us, and on their wifhing us a good night, we remind- ed them of our anxiety to be gone. The laft ftage was fix hours, or fifteen miles, fo that we have come 130 miles fmcewe leftCofire,. though the dired diftance muft fall fomewhat ftiort of that A a 2 number. [ i8o ] number. While we were going to bed, we were thrown into fome confufion by Major Alexander mifllng his Indian fabre. The bag- gage was rummaged for it in vain ; fo that we were obliged to call up our hoft to lay the complaint before him. The major now re- membered having left it below ftairs, and, as it could not be found, the fufpicions of our hoft immediately fell upon the fol- dier, who had been fo long the objefl of our averfion. This fol- dier he now fallied forth at this late hour to feek j and bidding the major to be of good cheer, alTured him that the fword fliould be recovered, if ftill within the precin6ls of the city. FRIDAY, ift August. I awoke at day- break to-day after a very found repofe. One night's] reft had perfe6lly reftored me to myfelf, if I may ex- cept a languor upon my limbs, which fo laborious a journey might occafion to a conftitution that is none of the ftrongeft. "When I had got on my Arabian habit, I perceived a pair of ftairs that led to the top of the houfe. As I conceived myfelf to be fuf- ficiently difguifed, I made no fcruple to afcend them, in order to take a view of the city. Ghinnah, or Cana, as the antients called it, is pleafantly fituated on the eaftern banks of the Nile, in that <liftri(5l which is known by the name of Upper Egypt. By our niceft obfervation of its bearing from Cofire, it lies in the latitude 26° 40' N. which brings it confiderably lower down the river than we find it, either in the old or modern maps. Its length extends from eaft to weft, and its principal ftreets run in a parallel line, and afcend by a gentle acclivity from the river to the center of the city. This fituation feems adapted to the neighbor- hood of the Nile, which, in the time of the floods, muft lay the adjacent parts under water. Its appearance is truly romantic, as every houfe is furrounded with an inclofure, and partly concealed 9 from [ i8i ] from view by the lofty date-trees, that every here and there mingle their tufted heads with the fpiral mofques and fwelling domes, as if ambitious to rival their proudeft heights. I was pro- ceeding in my obfervations, when our hoft came up to bid us good-morrow, and hearing that I was above, he called to me in hafle to defcend. I was rather furprized at this abrupt com- mand ; but when he pointed out the offence which his neighbors might take at having their women overlooked, I bore with the reproof, though my curio fity had not been awakened from that quarter. I was well acquainted with the jealoufy of the Maho- metans in this particular -, and therefore did not confider the con- du6l of our hoft as any way unreafonable. To the great fatis- faftion of the major, he produced the fword, which he declared had been taken on the thief he mentioned. He demanded, how- ever, eight dollars for the hire of two men, who had affiiled him in the purfuit of the foldier fome miks from the town. The mo- ney was paid to him without hefitation, as the weapon was of va- lue to the owner ; but our ideas of the juftice which prevails here, became very unfavorable, when we underftood that the lofs of his plunder was the only punifhment which the knave was likely to experience. We feafted this morning at breakfaft on cow's milk, to which we have been long ftrangers, and on the firft good bread we have tafted in Egypt. Indeed, we learn, that this place is plentifully fupplied with every neceffaiy of life, fituated in a ferene climate, and far removed from the turbulence and intrigues of the capital we are haftening to. A pifture, pretty in fpeculation, and what we flatter ourfelves we fhall find juft in the practice. The fhaik and our hoft joined us at our coffee, and we expe6ted to have heard fomething of the boat ; but their errand was to get fuch prefents for the camel-drivers and guard, as are ufual for travel- lers to give. We were content to be quk of them for a dollar each ; [ l82 ] each ; though it went not a little again ft our inclination to in- clude the roguifli foldier among the number. Scarce had they left us, when we had a vifit from the guard themfelves. The offender came without a blufli into our prefence, and had the effrontery to make a j eft of taking the fword, which he pretended he only meant to have kept as a pledge, for the prefent that was due to his comrade and himfelf. He added, that they were now come for that prefent, which they had fo juftly deferved at our hands, by the proteftion they had afforded us on the road. We were in- clined enough to have difputed their merits in this cafe, had it not been in the power of thefe fellows to publifh our arrival at Ghin- nah, and expofe us to the rapacity of the government. Their demand, therefore, met with a civiler reception than they expell- ed, and we affured them that it had been already gratified. We were now witnefs to one of the moft ftriking inftances of the un^ licenced tempers of the Arabs that ever occurred in hiftory. For no fooner was the fpokefman certified of the fhaik's having re- ceived his quota, than he caught up his fabre which lay by him on the carpet, and half-drawing it, told us with a refolute air, that if we would difclofe but the fum which the fhaik had prefumed to take without their knowledge, he would force it from his throat with the point of his fword. This language from a foldier, of his fuperior, did not fuit our notions of military difcipline ; and we difpatched Abdul Ruffar to feek for the fliaik, and acquaint him therewith. He foon came, and fuch a fcene paffed between the prince and fubjeft, as bafiies all defcription. An hundred times did they catch up their fabres, and challenge each other to inftant confli£t, and as often did they revile each other in the bit- tereft terms. But our friend had the greateft juftice in his re- proaches, as he ftigmatized the foldier with having betrayed his truft, in refpecl to the major's fword. This breach of truft feem- ed to both of thefe warriors the principal crime in the robbery ; and [ i83 ] and the quarrel waxed to fuch a pitch, that finding It imponiblc to foften their fury, we looked to our arms, in order to intimi- date the foldier. His comrade had fneaked off in the beginning of this difpute, and wifely informed the people of the houfe of what was paffing above. This intelligence, together with the noife, brought up the hoft and his family, juft at the nick of time, that our apartment was about to become the fcene of bloodfhed, in a populous and civilized city, on the trifling fubje6l of a few dol- lars ! This company foon accommodated the matter, and the fol- dier was difmiffed, with a promife of obtaining his dividend of the fum in queftion. Our diflafte for the people we are among, was fo heightened by this late tranfa6lion, that we now prefTed the fhaik, very feri- oufly, to difcharge the obligation he was under to embark us in a boat for Cairo. We found ourfelves at greater liberty, and un- der lefs apprehenfion, when committed to the wide waves in an Arab boat, than now when we are upon Arab ground ; and I doubt if there was one among us, who would not have under- taken the pilotage of a boat to Cairo, though the current was the only guide he could depend upon, in preference to ftaying at Ghinnah a day longer. The fhaik faw our anxiety, and affured us folemnly of his intention to keep his word, as foon as a boat could be got ready. Our hoft, and his brother Ally, offered to pledge themfelves for the fliaik's fmcerity, and the latter propofed himfelf to accompany us to Cairo. They left us to fit down to a meal of wheat, boiled in mutton-broth, which had been delayed by the flrange bufincfs of the day. SATURDAY, 2d August. We are doomed to be the fport of fortune, to achieve adven- tures which we never afpired to, and to find our fituation more dangerous 3 [ i84 ] dangerous than ever, at the moment that we are fooliflily expe<5t- ing tlie period of our troubles. Though the night was clofe, and I had not relied well, from the duft which incommoded the terrace we fleep upon, I was up, according to ciiftom, at day-break, and in going down flairs to the back-yard, in order to wafli me, was met by a fervant of the houfe, who took me by the arm, and, with a fignificant geflure, hurried me up again in apparent agitation. When he could make a fhift to explain himfelf, by the means of Ibrahim, we underftood, to our great concern, that the vizier of the city was in the houfe, and locked up in clofe conference with our hod. This early vifit had a very unpromifing appearance, and as we had remained within doors fince our arrival, we attri- buted this difcovery of us, to fome treachery in thofe who were in the fecret. My companions ported themfelves on the flair- head, to learn, if pofTible, what was going forward, and I was ruminating in an inner apartment on the confequences of Arab duplicity, when they came running to me, with an account of the llreet-door being befieged by a body ofhorfe. Our hoil him- felf followed them into the room., and, with the utmofl fliew of terror, defued us to load our fire-arms quickly, and aflifl him to defend the houfe, which he expedted would be afTaulted every mo- ment. It was fome time before we could get him to interpret the meaning of this alarm. We were not a little furprized at lafl to learn, that the horfe at the door belonged to the lliaik of Banute, and were fent with injunflions to carry us before their mafler, who had been apprized of our having pafTed his refidence, with- out paying him the ufual compliment. As improbable as this flory appeared, what impofition was there which could not have been praftifed with fuccefs on people, who were utter flrangers to the cuftoms and language of the country ? We were well in»- formed of the independence of the Arab fliaiks, and their pro- penfity to extort money from travellers -, and though the fending aji [ iS5 ] an armed force into a commercial town was incomprehenfible to us, yet we did not know but it might enter into the fyftem of their politics, where one party was fiiperior to another. In order, we fuppofe, to terrify us into their meafures, our hoft told us, that there was no regular government at prefent in Ghinnah ; that every man was the prote6lor of his own houfe, which he would defend, on our account, againft all invaders. From one of our windows, which in this country more refembles a pigeon-hole than any thing elfe, we beheld a number of horfemen, who pa- raded the ftreet, but did not betray any intentions to proceed to violence. On our obferving this matter to our hoft, he pretended that it difcovered an inclination to treat with us ; and immediately went down to the gate, to make, as he faid, the beft terms for us in his power. Thus were we, on a fudden, fhut up in a belea- guered place, and either on the point of being put to the fword, or being obliged to deliver ourfelves up prifoners of war. The caftle was befieged in form, and the treacherous governor about to fore- go his truft. We remained, during this interval, under arms in our apartment, and had centinels ported on the ftairs, to apprize us of any danger. After this farce — for a farce it was, though of a very ferious nature to us — had been kept up for two hours and upwards, our hoft at length came up. He told us, that he had fo far fucceeded, as to get us excufed from our vifit to Banute for a pecuniaiy confideration, and that the fum of 150 dollars would free us from thefe troublefome guefts. From the vizier's vifit, and theftrange conduft of the hoft, wefufpected there was acollufion between tliem and the cavalry at the door, and that we had already fallen within the gripe of the government of Ghinnah. Under this perfuafion we fubmitted with a good grace, to what we judged was unavoidable. We paid down fifty dollars in advance, thougli we loudly protefted againft the impofition, which we declared would leave us aimoft deftitute of money. To moderate ourvexa- B b tion. [ i86 ] tion, and to revive the pleafmg ideas of our departure, our hoft veiy artfully fliifted the fubjecl, and reminded us of putting him in cafh for the boat, which the fliaik and his brother wQre gone in purfuit of. His demand was forty dollars, which we readi- ly depofited in his hands, on his folemn declaration, that he re- ceived them for the hire of a boat, which ihould be ready for our reception at night. In a fliort time after our hoft had left us, he returned to advife us of the vizier's approach, vvlio followed him into our apart- ment, attended by a number of officers of ftate. They came, as they informed us, to enquire into our bufinefs, and our reafons for travelling through their countiy. Tho' they had taken us ra- ther unawares, we put the beft face we could upon the matter, and declared ourfelves travellers, whom ill fortune, and not our own inclinations, had led among them. On their demanding our pafs, we produced the one from the vizier of Yambo; and we thought it fortunate that we could fliew them letters from Captain Bacon, and the fiipercargoes of the fnow Adventure, to Ibrahim Beg, the bey of Cairo, to convince them that our journey was not a fecret to the bey. The vizier put the pafs into his pocket, and we re- marked, that he eyed the letter to the bey with great attention, and whifpered with apparent earneftnefs to fome of his followers before he returned it to us. We gathered the m.oft flattering pre- fages from this incident j and as he had preferved the utmoft po- litenefs and moderation in this interview, we faw the vizier and his train depart, in the fulleft confidence of having found pro- te<S:ion m our letters, againft the government, which were fo well inclined tohaveperfecutedus. When thefe people were gone, we partook of arepaft which the family had provided for us. It was fimple, but well-dreft, and confifted of meat and vegetables, both ftewed and roafted. We had not feen the young fliaik all day, and were uneafy at his ab- fence. [ i87 ] fence. When he made his appearance, he aflured us that he had been employed in our fervice fmce we faw hhn laft, and that he only wanted the money, to fecure the boat which he had engaged for us. But this information feemed chiefly to be a prelude to his own demands, and we difcovered that he was come, like the reft of his countrymen, for a prefent. Though we had promifed him a gratuity conditionally, yet as we placed too much reliance on the oath of an Arab, we hoped to bind him more ftrongly to us, by an a6l that lavored of confidence, as well as of bounty. Wc therefore preiented him with twenty dollars ; and Mr. Ham.mond gave him a fhaul to which he had taken a liking. He appeared fo much flruck with this generofity, that he fwore by his Pro- phet, he would not leave the houfe until a boat was provided for us. We then fent for our hofl:, with whom we had entrufted the boat-hire; but underftood from him, that he had juft paid it away with the reft of the money to the Banute cavalry, who, on this prompt payment, had relinquifhed their firft demand. Tho' this ftory was rather ftrange, it carried not a fufpicious air on the face of it. We faved fixty dollars by the manceuvre, and readily proffered to advance the boat-hire anew. A reys, or nokidah, ac- companied the hoft, who, after fome altercation, agreed to let us have a large, commodious boat, to carry us to Cairo, for fifty-five dollars. As the price was confiderably increafed, we afFe6led to run fliort of cafh, in hopes to imprefs them with a notion of our being too poor to be worth detaining. Accordingly we produced feveral Indian coins, both of gold and filver, which we delired might be weighed, to make up the fum. Though we let them un-, derfliand that thefe were pocket-pieces, which we had preferved through curiofity, I fear this expedient was the means of awak- ening the avarice of thefe robbers, and teaching them to expe61: a hoard of this treafure. On receiving the amount, with five dol- lars befides, to provide bread and two or three flieep for the B b 2 voyage. [ i28 ] voyage, the fiiaik, our hoft, and the nokldah, fv/ore in conjunc- tion to the immediate performance of the treaty. But they think, as the poet fays of lovers, that ♦' Jove laughs at Arab perjuries," and they can fwallow the moft facred oaths, without the fmalleft intention to keep them. And this we found more ftrongly veri- fied than ever. On the faith of their promifes we had packed up our baggage, and difpofed ourfelves for our removal. Nine o'clock was the ap- pointed hour, and we waited for it with all tlie impatience of a bridegroom, who looks forward to the moment which is to crown his fondeft wifhes. But our watches announced the hour, and no Arabs appeared. We, however, accounted eafily for the delay j efpecially as the natives muft find it difficult to afcertain time, in a country where clocks and watches are unknown. Ten o'clock came, and brought no intelligence of them. Our fufpence now began to be cruel ; and we fent Abdul Ruflar down flairs, to enquire what was become of the hofl and his companions. He returned without having obtained any other tidings, than their being flill abroad. It is impoOible to give the reader an idea of our fituation during this intei"val. We were alTembled on a ter- race that was open to the air, and had no other light than what the flrars afforded us. The v?orfl interpretation was put upon their abfence, by fome of our company. Ibrahim began to de- fpaii'j and Abdul RufTar hi mfelf could not account for the con- duft of his countrymen. Tired out with fruitlefs expe6lation, we ftretched ourfelves upon our carpets, and endeavored to com- pofe ourfelves to reft. In the midfl of our difordered flumbers, we were fuddenly alarmed, about midnight, by a noife at the out- ward gate of the houfe. We heard the door open, and the found of a man's feet haflily afcend the flairs. Hope hung upon his fteps; and when we beheld our hofl enter with a light in his hand, we called out, as if with one voice, that we were ready to attend hini. [ iS9 ] him. Jvidge ye, who have ever experienced the fallacy of appear- ances in matters nearefl: to the heart — judge of our emotions, when we found, that, inftead of a boat being in readinefs to carry us away, the vizier and his train were below ! The late hour, our recent difappointment, and the furprize which this news threw us into, operated together to render us very unfit to re- ceive thefe unwelcome vifitants. But we had not even time to enquire into the meaning of this intrufion, when the vizier en- tered. He was accompanied by all the officers who were with him in the morning ; but his retinue was now enlarged by a number of foldiers, each of whom bore a torch in his hand. They feated themfelves, without waiting to be afked, on the carpets. which we had rifen from ; and calling for our interpreter, the vi- zier defired him to tell us, that he was come to levy a duty on the goods and jewels that we had with us : that he and the council of flate had formed a refolution to demand no more than 4,000 dollars ; and if we refufed to pay fo moderate a fum, they muft fend us to their mafter, the Shaik-Ul-Arab, who was then on the frontiers of his dominions, to anfvver for our refufal. The exor- bitancy of the demand made us treat it in a light manner ; and as to our taking another journey upon camels, we declared it was better to die here, than to fall a facrifice to the fatigues of the Ara- bian method of travelling. We told them our baggage lay ready for their infpeclion, and they might foon fatisfy themfelves of our poverty. Whether this confident behavior imprefied them with an idea of our fmcerity, or that their defigns were not ripe for execution, we cannot pronounce ; but the vizier declined the fearch. He however politely infinuated, that a fliaul or two would be very acceptable to him. I had two fine ones belonging to my Turkifli drefs, which had ftood me in 100 dollars. Thefe I pro- duced without hefitation, tho' I declared truly they were all I had, when I prefented them to the vizier. On receiving them, the mi- nifter 9 [ 190 ] nifter begged us to be eafy, as he now confidered us to be under his protection, and would give us a pafs in the morning for our fafety down the river. When he had taken his leave, we re- proached our hoft for the failure of his word. But he fliifted the blame from himfelf to the vizier, who, he affured us, had put a flop to our voyage for this night. He repeated his former afTer- tions, that the boat was ready for our reception. In fliort, he drew fo flattering a pidure of the vizier's good intentions towards us, and exprefled fuch a zeal for our fervice, that he obtained his ends of getting a fhaul himfelf from Major Alexander, and of lull- ing us once more into a tranfient fecurity. SUNDAY, 3d August. The morning came, only to furnifli us with frefli inftances of the perfidy of thefe people. Inftead of the vizier's pafs, or any figns of our departure, we were left to our own reflections, and we faw nothing of the young fliaik, of our hofl:, or of his brother. Nay, to fuch a pitch was their neglefl carried, that at noon we found there was no dinner provided for us in the houfe. In this embarrafTment we fent out Abdul Ruffar to purchafe us fome pro- vifion ; and as we underllood the city abounded with Chriftiaii merchants, we direCled him to apply to them for their opinion of our detention, and for their advice and affiftance on this alarming occafion. Too flrid a watch was kept upon the motions of Ibra- him, to admit of his negotiating fuch a matter for us. It was rarely that he was fuffered to ftir out of doors, under pretence that the people of Banute were once more in fearch of us, to tax us in another prefent -, and when this liberty was allowed him, he was attended by the hoft, or fome of the family. We were yet in the dark, therefore, in refpeCt to the form and nature of the govern- ment under whofe extortions we groaned. But we gave the ab- fent [ 191 ] fcnt prince, whoever he might be, fall credit for a principal fhare in our fufferings. In about an hour's time our faithful domeftic returned, with a couple of fowls and fome greens, which he immediately fet about to drefs for us. But, to our great concern, he had met with no fuccefs in the more material part of his errand. No admittance had been given him at the Chriftian houfes, becaufe it was the hour of dinner ; an hour facred to privacy among the Oriental nations. While we were waiting for our humble repaft, we were not a little furprized at the fight of the vizier, who came to pay us a vifit, attended only by his fervants, who remained below. It was about two o'clock, and long paft his time of dining. Never- thelefs, on our vidluals appearing, he fat down to a lingle difh with us, and partook with much feeming fatisfa6lion of the fare which was put before him. He called for fpirits, which he jocofe- ly faid the Chriftians were the moft choice in, and drank feveral coffee-cups of rum, both during and after our meal. The vizier's name is Mahmoud. He is a young man of about thirty years of age, tall and well made, of a pleafmg afpeft and infinuating ad- drefs, lively and entertaining in his difcourfe, and void of the re- ferve which marks the generality of his nation. It appeared to us that he was come incog, with an intent to unbend himfelf with thenotelty of European company, and with the charms of a li- quor which is forbidden by his law. But ftrong as thefe motives ' might be, we had quickly caufe to be convinced, that there was another more prevalent in his bofom, which induced him to ho- nor us with this vifit. He began his attack in complimenting the knowledge and fagacity of our countrymen, and in paffing the ' higheft encomiums on the manufa6lures of our country. He dwelt in particular on the beauty of the fire-arms, and, by an eafy tranfition, exprelTed a defire to poflefs a pair of Englifh pif- tols. I had one pair left, very handfomely mounted with lilver, z wliich [ 192 ] which I immediately prefented him with. Thefe had been feeii by our treacherous hoft the preceding morning, when we had taken up arms to defend the houfe, and as I perceived that the vizier had got an item of them, I parted with them in the bed manner I could. Not fatisfied with this compliance, he now caft his eye on the major's fword. But its mafter had too great a value for an old and trufty fervant, to give it up fo eafily. He had already redeem- ed it from the hands of a robber, and, perhaps, on that account, prized it more than ever. But the vizier's inclination for the fword feemed to increafe, in proportion to the relu6tance of the owner to refign it. In fuch a fituation as ours, I could not fee the ufe of with- holding any article from a man, who, by his rank and authority, might apparently difpofe of us as he pleafed. In my experience of thefe people, I had never found the good of re- fiftance, in cafes of this nature ; and cannot take any fhame upon myfelf for advifmg conciliating and pacific meafures, in a country where a fuccefsful oppofition would prove fatal to us. We had arms to defend ourfelvea, and I believe ikill to have repelled fope- rior numbers ; but it mull be allowed, that we fliould dearly have abided a recourfe to them. Under this conviflion, I endeavored to foften the vizier's difappointment, by tendering him a creefe, or dagger, in lieu of the fword he wanted. Its handle was agate, fludded with fmall rubies and emeralds ; and as it belonged to my Turkifli drefs, was a very proper prefent to an Arab. This creefe, with the piftols, coft me feventy dollars at leaft ; but the fooner we are diverted of our valuables, the nearer will be the hour of our departure. The meaning of this interview was too obvious to efcape our notice ; and we fhould have been content to have purchafed this minifter's friendfliip at the price of our baggage. Though every requeft he made could only be conftru- ed into a demand, he never exceeded the bounds of good-breeding in this piratical vifit j and it mufl be acknowledged, that there * never C 193 1 never exifted a more polite robber than the vizier of Ghinnah. FIc had the art to fhift the difcourfe to fomething flattering or amuf- ing to us, whenever we attempted to touch on the fubje6l of our departure; and notwithflanding we perceived his drift, he had the addrefs to evade the queftion, and to lead us from the point we had always in view. In fliort, he laughed with us, rallied with us, and drank with us ; and, as a particular compliment, obli- ged us in our turns to fmoke of his pipe. He lengthened his vi- fit until eight o'clock in the evening, and, during the whole time, difplayed all the fkill and education of a profeiTed courtier. Wc were abfolutely foiled in our attempts to found this politician's mind ; and, at the end of the interview, had not obtained the leafl: infight into the extent of his defigns upon us. When we la- mented our confinement in a private houfe, and complained of the deceitful conduvSl of our hofl:, he affefled to take a part in our troubles. But his language was ambiguous, and left us to con- ceive fomething more than it conveyed. At his departure, how- ever, he afflired us with a fmile, that he intended to renew his vi- fit on the morrow ; but that he fliould infifl on flanding our ca- terer, and fending us a dinner more fuitable to our condition. To this he added, that he hoped it would be the laft meal we fliould cat in Ghinnah. Inconclufive as thefe words were, we were fomewhat aflured by them, and thanked the minifler very cordi- ally for his good intentions. MONDAY, 4th August. What with the anxiety of our minds, and the clofenefs of our apartment, we pafs our nights in a very uncomfortable manner. The weather is very fultry, and the high walls which furround us on all fides, feem calculated to prevent a free circulation of air. But we had more important cares to engage our attention. From the wreck of our fortunes, we were intent to fgve a fufficiency to C c carry I 194 ] carry us to Europe, fliould it pleafe God to deliver us from this rapacious tribe. I had about lool. left in Venetians and guineas, which, with a gold watch, and a ruby ring of fome value, L con- cealed in an handkerchief about my waift. My European fervant contrived alfo to carry about him fome pictures and trinkets fet with jewels, of mine, in his fafli and turban. Mr. Hammond and the major made ufe of fimilar contrivances, to preferve their treafure. But the abundant riches of the latter became a grievous burden to him. He had lent the fupercargo of the Adventure 1 000 pagodas, or 400I. refpondentia, to be paid at Suez. At our departure from Yambo he had received this fum, and what with pagodas and rupees that he had befides, he could not at that time be in poffeflion of lefs than loool. in fpecie. A large capital, and though fomewhat leflened by our former travels. Hill confiderable enough to put him to great difficulties in the difpofal of it. An heavy bag of 500 Venetians v/as fufpended about Ibrahim's w^ift-, and afforded us no little trial of the honefty and attachment of this Indian. The major's llave-boys were likewife encumbered with gold and filver ; and a prodigious handfome fword, which he had hitherto fecreted in his bed, was now,, for greater fecurity, hidden in a hole under the flair- cafe. The handle and fcabbard were of filver, highly wrought, and doubly gilt. This fword wzs valued at lOol. fterling, and was once the property of an eaftern prince. Thefe meafures were adopted, from a fufpicion that our trunks would undergo a fcrutiny to-day, and that nothing but this cere- mony having hitherto been omitted, obftrufled our departure. It was our original misfortune to be lumbered with too much bag- gage, and it had been better that we had committed every thing to the waves at Cofue, than to have. brought any packages but papei-s with the caravan. Its appearance almoil warranted tlie exaggera- tion of the vulgar ; and the approach of the Englifli travellers, load,- ] ed with gold, precious ftones, and merchandize, was every where publifhed.. [ 195 ] publlflied. As they had no idea of people being led by curiofity or accident to vifit their country, it was very natural for them to place our journey to the delire of gain, and to confider us in the light of merchants. Inftead of coming herewith privacy — as we had foolifhly believed on the word of our conduftor — it now ap- pears, that we were expe6led with impatience by the principal in- habitants; and that our perfons and our goods had only been transferred from one hand to another. To the bleffing of God only can we now attribute the moderation of the fhaik of Cofire, and our prefervation on the road hither. Our lives and property had been at the difpofal of him and his dependants, and we could not but fhudder to refle<5l on the company we had travelled with. But to be expofed to pillage in a large and populous town, to which merchants of different countries refort, is only to be ex- plained by the ftrange ideas they entertain of our baggage, which they will not fearch, though we prefs them to do it, and will not feize, though inclined to poflefs it. Thus kept in a ftruggle be- tween avarice and fear, our journey is delayed, our apprehenfions awakened, and our lives poffibly endangered, until the conflift fhall be decided in the breafts of thefe fpoilers ! We have feen nothing of the young fhaik fince he received his prefent, nor of our hoft Mahomet, fmce he made us the fine pro- mifes of a fpeedy departure. Ibrahim watched an opportunity this morning to flip out unobferved, and to accompany Abdul RufTar to fome Chriftian houfes. They were directed to found thefe people, refpe<Sling the prote6lion they were inclined to afford us. To know whether they could harbor us in their houfes, in cafe we effected an efcape from our prifon ; or at lead would affift in procuring us a boat, to accomplifti our flight under cover of the night. This negotiation was as fruitlefs as all the others we had undertaken. Neither their defires to ferve us, nor the hopes of a good reward, were forcible enough to command the interpofition C c 2 of ft, 96 ] ^ of thefe Chriftians, confident as they were that we labored under the perfecution of the government. To fill up the meafure of our diftrefs, the very boatmen, whom Ibrahhn fpoke to diftantly on the fubject, pofitively decHned to receive us on board without a paffport. Once more then muft we give up the flattering prdf- peft of Hberty, and attend with patience the iflue of our misfor- tunes. It has been remarked by fome philofopher, that in every trial to which humanity is put, how numerous foever the illufions of hope, there is flill a fucceflion of caufes to revive this aflive prin- ciple, and to preferve the mind from the influence of defpair. It is a pleafure to me to fubfcribe to a fentiment, which holds out fo comfortable a truth to mankind, and which afcribes fo bene- volent a property to the divine ordination of events. Various had been the turns of our fortune, but never had we lofl: fight of an happy fequel. Even now, when all immediate fuccour is denied us, w^e look forward to a diftant promife. The Indian Fakeer, whom we had not feen fince our arrival here, and vvhofe abfence we could only attribute to his having purfaed his journey, fol- lowed Ibrahim into the hovife, and offered to carry a letter to Cairo. He informed us of his having been frequently denied ad- mittance to us, and urged us to difpatch him with all poflible fpeed, that he might depart unnoticed. The gratitude of this poor Indian excited our admiration, and we delayed not a moment to take advantage of his unexpected offer. We penned a fhort but pathetic letter to Mr. Baldwin at Cairo, acquainting him of our alarming fituation, and begging his interefl with the bey to demand our releafe of this government. We had every reafon to believe that our letter from Cofire had not reached Mr. Baldwin, but \ye had a better foundation for the fuccefs of this, as the bearer had evinced himfelf our friend, and was in a c'^.araclrer that would render him unfufpetSted. But to enfure the delivery of'. it. C »97 I it, as much as lay in our power, we prefented the Fakeer with five dollars, and on the back of the letter defired Mr. Baldwin would pay him as much more, as a reward for his fidelity. The IndiaA ,- was very thankful for this kindnefs, and after concealing the let- ter in his turban, took leave of us with no little emotion. He luckily went out of the houfe unqueftioned by the porter -, and we prepared ourfelves to receive the vizier, in a better temper of mind than we had been in for fome time paft. At two o'clock the minifter came, accompanied only by the rafcal Ally. We were glad to find that he was not unmindful of his promife ; and indeed he exceeded our expe6lations in the fumptuous dinner he had provided for us . It confifted of thirty covers, wherein various kinds of fifli, flefli, and fowl, were ferved up to our table. We had not feen fo plentiful a meal for many a day, and were not backward in doing honor to it. The vizier was particularly attentive in recommending the beft difhes to us, and feemed much pleafed at the appetite with which we ate. He relaxed entirely of his ftate, and when the victuals were removed, . he and Ally fet in for ferious drinking. It was impoflible for us to efcape a dram or two, which he forced upon us. But he would tak-e no excufe from Ally, who being a Muffulman like himfelf, was called upon to keep him in countenance. The rum was old, and confequently potent, and did nbf require a great quantity toe intoxicate thefe boon companions. The vizier's head however was much the ftrongcft; and while the liquor only rendered him more talkative, its effedts upon Ally were mifchievous and alarmr ing. He acled a thoufand extravagancies, and at length pulled one of the vizier's piftols out of his girdle, and fired it in the air. In this ftate of frenzy the piftol' might ^s well have been dire>5led at one of our breafts, and we were very glad, in a few minutes . after, to' fee him fink upon the floor in a fit of ftupefa6lion.r Tl^is. j afforded matter of great triumph to the minifter, who begari to , 9 conceive conceive an infinite affection far us, talked of carrying us' home to an houfe more eligible for bur reception, and in the fulnefs of his heart, offered us horfes and guards to condudl us through the city. He was very defuous to play a game of chefs with me, when he underflood I was converfant with it, and we were enter--' taining hopes of being benefitted in fome fhape or other by this^ paroxyfm of kindnefs, when he was fuddenly overcome by fleep. He ftretched himfelf upon the carpet on which he had been fit- ting, and all our airy notions of relief vaniflied with his waking thoughts. He had been upwards of an hour in this fituation, when a mcflTenger brought a letter, the delivery of which was too impor- tant to be difpenfed with. We therefore ventured to wake the minifter, who I believe was afhamed to be found in fuch a man- ner. On perufing it, he faid the contents concerned us. That the fliaik of Banute had fent two boats to purfue us down the Nile, under a fuppofition of our having pufhed on for Cairo, and that they were now returned to feek us here. He bade us how- ever to rely on his protection, and to keep ourfelves quiet until thefe people had left the city, when he would difpatch us with fafety. He then took his leave, not empty-handed, as during the vifit he had wheedled the major out of a (haul, which appears to be the chief obje6l of his defires. We had gained no ground in this interview; and held the revival of the Banute ftory, as a mere feint to renew our apprehenfions, and to conceal the real motives of our detention. TUESDAY, 5th Auqust. The profpe'fl begins to grow darker and darker, and our de- parture feems to be more diftant than ever. We are utterly neg- leded- [ 199 1 lefted by the family, and, in a manner, forfaken by the world. We had fent Abdul RufTar to fearch for them in vain, when a- bput eleven o'clock he returned with Ally. He was juft rifcn from his bed, and the fumes of the liquor were fcarcely evapora- ted from his brain. We were not forry to fee him in a fituation» from which we .had a chance of procuring fome material intelli- gence. But he was a traitor in his cups, and gave the lye to the notiQri .that good liquor will make a roguehoneft. For ray own part, I had been fo mortified at the depravity of human nature, which, in the Ihape of our landlord and his afTociates, had not only violated the rights of hofpitality, but repeatedly broken the mpft tremendous oaths which could be taken in the fight of a juft God>-that I was tempted at times to difown my alliance to fuch a race. Opprefied by one part of it, and unaffifted by another, whofe religion fhould have enforced their compafiion towards us, it is not furprizing that we beheld them with an eye of abhor- rence and diftrufl. We had experienced that there was no fafety among them, and to the interpofition of the divine Power alone, could we look for our deliverance. But the fimplicity of Ibra- him led him to renew a confidence, fo often mifplaced. He gave more credit to the word of a MufTulman, and was the laft to fee into their falfehood. He took great pains to worm out of Ally the fecret intentions of his brother.. Repeatedly did he demand what they fought for from us, and as often did he proffer in our name to leave our baggage to them, provided they would convey us and our papers to a boat. Shame frequently appeared in Ally's face during this interrogation; and it was not without the hefitation attached to a guilty confcience, that he acknow- ledged they wanted more valuables.. On this the major produced- a filver mug, which he promifed to. deliver to the brothers at the river-fide. But Ally would not be fatisfied without a diamond- ling, which he had feen. on. the major's finger at Cc^firc. This 2 was- \ 200 ] was a ring of no inconfiderable value, and had been irhpr\idently expofed by the major, at a moment, indeed, when he did not fuf- pe6l the mifchief which was hatching againft us. It would hav$ been impoffibie, perhaps, to have waved this demand, if the ma- jor had not luckily been in poflcffion of a pafte ring of nearly the fame fize, v^'hich he impofed upon Ally for the diamond one. This ring and tlie filver mug were to be his, when lie performed his engagement of putting us into a boat. The fight of them feemed to rouze the fellow, and to animate his zeal in our behalf. He left us on the inftant, witli a defign to feek his brother, and to fee what could be done for us. As an earneiV -^f his good intentions, he left word with Abdul Ruiiar below, that he would provide a dinner for us, which we were hkely to have gone with- out before. We faw nothing of him however until two o'clock, when he brought us a very fcanty and indifferent dilh of fifli ftewed in oil. We could not help murmuring at our condition, and the rafcal apologized, as well as he could, for the badnefs of the vidluals. We were now left to oiirfelves for the reft of the day, to folve if poffible the intentions of our enemies, and to deliberate in vain on the bell meafures to guard againft their malignity. In the evening. Ally brought his brother to us, whom we had not obtained a fight of for the three laft days, though fuppofed to be under the fame roof with us. Nature had been very juft to this man, as the villainy of his difpofition was written in legible charad^ters in his countenance. He was in a manner dragged up to our apartment, and his prefent appearance would not have difcrcdited a king's evidence at the Old-Bailey. He hung his licad, though poffefTed of an infinite ftock of alihrance, and the frivolous reafons which he afligned for his abfence, were the plaineft proofs of his guilt. He now joined with Ally in feem- ing earneft for our departure, and which he afllned us nothing delayed but the fearch of our baggage. This ceremony heunder- ftood [ £01 ] flood, was to be performed in tlie morning, and he fully difco- vered his principles, by defiring us to fuffer him and Ally to in- fpeft our baggage before the vizier came to do it. There was a time when this propofal would have been treated with the con- tempt it deferved; but our immediate dependence on thefe fel- lows, obliged us to liften to it with complacency. We were aware of their knavifti defigns, but we confidered our cfFedts as the clog which impeded our courfe ; and a livelier pidlure cannot be exhibited of our fituation, than the readinefs with which we accelerated the hour, which might leave us deftitute of the com- mon neceffaries of life. Our operations were now confined to the obtaining of our enlargement. We thought only of refuming our journey. The means of accomplifliing fo arduous an under- taking, were entirely left to the diredion of chance. WEDNESDAY, 6th August. This is the fixth day of our arrival at Ghinnah, and we are as perfe6l flrangers to the place as the hour we came here. Our view is limited to the flreet in which we live, and which we peep into from our windows, that are very fmall and very high. Here our faces engage the attention of paffengers, many of whom are brought by curiofity to view us : the detention and ill ufage of European travellers having made no little noife about the city. But compaffion is the only medicine they can afford us. Al- though our cafe is known, we have little chance of relief under fo precarious a government, where the ruUng maxim feems to be, that the weaker fide muft go to the wall. It is our fortune once more to excite the pity of the fairer part of the creation, and to find tendernefs and humanity among the members of an Arab tribe. Exactly oppofite to our prifon is the haram of a man of fome confequence, if we can judge of him D d from [ 202 ] from the number of his women. It was but two days ago that we difcovered we were the obje6ls of thefe females' regard ; who, when the fun goes down, come tripping by pairs to the front of their terrace, and, by figns and falutations, enquire into our wel- fare, and lament their inability to relieve our diftrefles. Some of thefe women are beautiful, and all well made ; and they make no fcruple to appear before us unvailed, at no greater diftance than the breadth of a narrow ftreet. It would be an eafy matter for us to difcourfe together, with the help of our interpreter, were we not afraid, in our critical fituation, of incurring fufpicion and danger. We find fatisfaction, however, in this dumb intercourfe. Unavailing as their fympathy muft prove, our vanity is not the lefs flattered by it. We have retorted upon our opprefTors with- out defign, and triumph over them in the tendered point ! Before we had breakfafled, our hoft and his brother vifited us, to make the propofed fearch. We readily opened our trunks to them, and they were not a little furprifed to find nothing but linen and cloaths, where they expe6led at leaft to light upon piece-goods, jewels, and money. They took, however, two hand- fome china bov.'ls, a box of cut Trichinopoly flones, half a dozen flieets, and a Turkifh habit from the major j and from me a Turkilh coat only. Mr. Hammond's trunks efcaped their hands. We were much aftonifhed at this moderation, but fup- pofe an apprehenfion of the vizier's catching them in the fadV, occafioned their hafty retreat. As they were going away. Ally ftaid until his brother was out of hearing, and then alked the major in a whifper, to let him fecrete the filver mug which was promifed him in the boat. It iinluckily ftood on the window- feat with the remains of the major's breakfaft, and without wait- ing for an anfwer. Ally took it up, and marched with it down flairs. We had fcarcely got rid of thefe plunderers, when the vizier and ' [ 203 J and his train made their appearance. They were very rigid in their fcrutiny, until they came to a box belonging ta me, which contained a packet and letters of confequence. The manner in which this box was fecured, with nails and wax-cloth, gave them hopes of being well rewarded for their trouble. But when the lid was taken off, and the contents were difplayed, never was fuch furprife feen, as was betrayed in the countenances of the vizier and his adherents. They feemed to awaken as from a dream, and after conferring together with evident marks of difappoint- ment, they precipitately retired, notwithftanding our remon- ftrances, that they would finiili the examination, and permit usi to depart, though at the expence of our baggage. -'-^ We had fent Abdul RufTar abroad to procure intelligence, and he returned with the news, that a boat was on the point of fet- ting out for Cairo. He had founded the nokidah, to know what he would do in our behalf; who, in defiance of bribery, would only venture to convey a letter for us to that city. As nothing could be effe6led towards our efcape, we were content to addrefs another letter to Mr. Baldwin, relating the new troubles we had met with, and the nece/Iity of his immediate afliftance, to deliver us from the perils which environed us. This letter Abdul RufTar carried with great fecrecy to the nokidah, who, in oonfideration of a prefent, undertook to dcUver it to Mr. Baldwin. In the afternoon the vizier repeated his vifit, under pretence of taking down our names, and making out the pafs for our de- parture. The conduft of this man towards us had been truly fmgular. He had courted us for his own views, and he had de- ceived us without any apparent motive. He had taken indeed many things from us in a polite way, but when he had an op- portunity of fatisfying his avarice with the choice of our movei ables, he fhrunk back, as if afhamed or afraid to perfevere in his D d 2 intentions. [ 204 ] intentions. This palpably fhews that there is a ruling authority to which he is accountable, and to which we are indebted for our ieciirity to this hour. He pofitively told us that we fliould go at night, and our hoft as pofitively promifed us his camels, to tranfport us and our baggage to the river- fide. At fix o'clock our hoft came, but it was only to inform us, that the young Ihaik had ran away to Cofire with the boat-money. We could npt at firft think fo ill of our condu6tor, but our hoft affured us, that we had i'een our laft of him. More money was now de- manded for the hire of a boat, but we had fo long perfifted in the ftory of our money being all expended, that we could not have produced any, without confirming their opinion of our wealth. This fellow, however, had the addrefs to obtain the fword from ' the major, which had been refufed to the vizier, and had been re- deemed, with fuch trouble, from the clutches of the foldier. This fword lie now demanded upon the footing of a former pro- njife;^ and the major thought proper to gratify his wifhes. He has been a material fufFerer during the tranfaftions of this day. THURSDAY, 7th August. "We were at breakfaft upon ripe figs and bread, for which we ' were indebted to the attention of Abdul Ruflar, who is our ca- terer at fuch times as our hoft negle6ls us, when two of the vizier's people entered the room, accompanied by our hoft and his father. The laft is an old man, and not only privy to the iniquitous con- duct of his fons, but a tormenting folicitor himfelf for any thing that comes within his view. The trite tale of the Banutecavalry being returned for money, was once more attempted to be im- p-ofed upon us ; but we had learned to parry the attack, by de- filing th^m to convey our baggage to the horfemen, who were, welcome to difpofe of it as they thought fit. This liberal ofFef ^ s did [ 205 ] did not fuit their defigns. It was the fpecle which they looked for, and it Teemed as if they began to fufped that we did not keep it among our baggage. From looo dollars, which thefe mock agents at firfl demanded, they fell at once to loo, then to 80, 60, 40, and at length to 20 dollars ! The vizier's adhereiUs foon re- tired, when they found themfelves treated in fo cavalier a manner, and left us to difcufs the matter with Mahomet. This is the Cerberus whom vye are to gain over, if the door to our efcape is to be opened to us. We have tempted him with many a fop, but his price is yet to be reached, if it be in his power to permit of our departure. We condefcended to aflbre him, that we had not the mcney to fatlsfy this demand -, but that, to oblige him, we would give up our filver fpoons, which we ufed at our table, and which were equal to the value of twenty dollars. He appeared to liflen with great attention to this propofal, but fuddenly recolle(51ing himfelf, he paufed for a moment, and told ur, that without a let- ter, from us, fpecifying that he had received no money from iis» he could concern himfelf no further about ,Qur affairs. ' The effrontery of this Arab exceeded, if poflible, his depravity. He talked as if his endeavors had been exerted for our good -, and held the language of friendfliip amid the daily pradice of in- juflice. We were, therefore, not a little rejoiced to find, that our hoft did not quietly enjoy the fruits of his villainy. On Inquir- ing into the neceffity of giving him fuch a letter, we learned that the town's people threatened to pillage his houfe, and to (hare with him the 1000 Venetians which he was reported to have ob- tained from us. /A declaration under our hands of its falfity, would ftifle the report, and preferve his property from being left to the mercy of an enraged populace. We had been fo little accuftomed to truth in this country, that we were become fcep- tics in every thing, which did not immediately fall under our own obfervation. This fellow, however, had evidently fome reafon for > i tJi,'! [ 206 ] for his fears, and, in order to difcover their origin, we dif- mifTed him with a promife of f urnifliing him with the paper he wanted. Ibrahim informed us, that he had been frequently preffed by Ally, to go' abroad with him at unfeafonable hours. This beha- viour awakened our fufpicions, that fome foul play was intended to this faitliful domeftic; and we accordingly cautioned him not to truft himfelf in Ally's company. But by a ftrange infatua- tion, he neglecled this admonition ; and by venturing out of doors, when we had laid down to take our afternoon-nap, fell into the net which was fpread for him, and very nearly involved uS in the danger we were mollly to apprehend. He returned about five o'clock in a ftate of intoxication, and could hardly find woi-ds to explain the caufe of it, when he became quite befide himfelf. We gathered, neverthelefs, from him, that Ally had met and inveigled him into a coffee-houfe, under pretence of treating him with a difh of coffee. That he had tafted fomething particular in' the coffee, and would not be prevailed upon to ftay, when he found his head begin to grow giddy. That villain Ally had doubdefs introduced an opiate into the cup ; and whatever his view was, it was baffled by the refolution of Ibrahim, who forced his way home in that condition, and difplayed a condu6l we did not give him credit for before to-day. The mafor's bag of Vene- tians was ftill about him; but it was impolTible for us to know, what intelligence mis:ht not have been drawn from him in fuch a fituation. He was by no means addi6led to liquor; and though he would not refufe his dram when on board the Adventure, he •had fo long abftained from fpirits, that we were convinced he had not been aflifling to his own intoxication. We had the greateft confidence in his honefty and attachment, but we dreaded the dif- toveries which he unknowingly might have made. We were anxious. to fuppofe.that no harm had yet been done, and hurried 3/-!4 him [ 2^7 J hlra to bed in an inner apartment, where we watched him like a child, that he might not get down flairs, or hold any converfa- tion with Mahomet or Ally, until he was fobered again. Thefe blood-hounds followed the fcent which the latter had hit off, and came up repeatedly, under pretence of talking to Ibrahim about our departure. But we were aware of their intentions, and hin- dered their waking or getting any accefs to him. It would not have been fo eafy for us to have prevented the intrufion of the vi- zier, and we trembled for his appearance at this moment. I can declare for myfelf, that I have not experienced the poignancy of diftrefs until this accident j by which we find ourfelves brought to the brink of dellruclion, through the fimplicity of one of our own attendants. The morning, we hope, will reflore him to a fenfeof his folly, anddifpel the cloud which thickens around us. FRIDAY, 8th August. The occurrences of this day have been Co crouded, fo ftrange, and fo afFeding to humanity, that the reader will doubtlefs offer a plea to himfelf for the irregularity of a narrative, which was taken down late at night, and while our fates were flill in all the horrors of uncertainty- The defire of being held in the memory of mankind, even awaits us to the mouth of the grave ; and how- ever hideous the danger, a liberal mind cannot bear the idea of going out of the world by an obfcure and unknown track, while there is a chance of tranfmitting its fufferings, its fortitude, and its refignation, to the regard of pofterity. And fhould it pleafe God to permit this journal of our diftrelles, to furvive the general :«:reck which threatens our lives and property, it may have the merit of difclofing to others, the perils which attend the traveller through this favage clime; and to warn him by our examples, of the little credit he fhould repofe in the fan^ity, the hoipitaiity of 10 the [ 208 ] the Arabs ; for which virtues they have been falfely celebrated by uninformed hiftorians ! The morning had palled as ufual, in fufpence and diftruft of thefe people's intentions, nor did any thing occur to fweeten our daily potion, but the repentance of Ibrahim, and the behavior of the poor women whom I before mentioned to have taken notice of us. Immured in a fimilar confinement, they felt for our fitu- ation, and partook of our troubles. The tale of our difafters had certainly reached their ears, as they enquired by figns whether we had cloaths left, or vi6luals to eat. Actuated by our melancholy geftures to fuggefl the worft, thefe tender-hearted creatures brought fruit and fugar-canes, all they could probably lay their hands upon, and threw them by ftealth acrofs the ftreet to our terrace. This humane talk they were employed in for half an hour and more, when they difappeared, on our advertifing them of the arrival of vifitors. The alarm was falfe, for it was only Abdul Ruflar, who was returned from reconnoitring the motions of the enemy. In his walk he had been encountered by fome Chriftian merchants, who now recommended to us, to get a letter privately written to the Shaik Ul Arab, complaining of the ufage we had met with, and imploring his prote6lion. They not only advifed this expedient, but promifed to forward the letter for us, in the fuccefs of which they implicitly confided. We could not do better, we thought, than follow the opinion of thofe of our own perfuafion j and we had adtually difpatched our agents to them- upon this errand, when the fcheme was unknowingly overfet by the ma- jor. We had all along confidered ourfelves as clofe prifoners; «nd the major refolved to make an effort to get into the ftreet, to be certified of the worft of our fituation. He found the •door locked, and knocking to get it opened by the porter who ^conftantly attended without, the family were alarmed, and came * in [ 209 ] in numbers to prevent his forcing this pafTagc. A fir uggle en- fued, which the major thought prudent to defift from, and re- turned up flairs with our fervants, who were detained at home by this untowai'd accident. While we were confulting on fome remedy for this difappoint- ment, a body of people came up ta our apartment, ufhered by our hoil. The principals were an old fat man, and one dreffed in a fcarlet robe, who told us that he was the hakeem or governor of the town, and had been commanded by the Shaik Ul Arab, his mailer, to take us under his protection ; to enquire into the par- ticulais of the injuries which we had fuftainedi and to tranfmit a faithful account of us to the fhaik, who would fee juftice done to us, let whofoever be the aggreflbr. Our fpirits had long been in want of a cordial to revive them, and this fpeech operated very powerfully upon them. The appearance of thefe officers, and the authority which they took upon them, gave credit to their words. We confidered ourfelves as diftinguiflied by the compaffion of the fhaik, though we could not difcover by what providential acci- dent the tale of our difafters had come to his knowledge. But elated as we were by this fudden change in our affairs, and con- fonant as the hakeem's offer was to our hopes of revenge, wc were too well aware of the unliable Hate of an Arabian government, to be led allray by a falfe emblem of power. The event proved that we did not judge much amifs ; and that it is dangerous to make enemies in a body, where we are not affured. of friends. Before the affembly had well feated themfelves, the vizier arri- ved, and took his place among them. He betrayed a downcalt and irrefolute countenance, and I obferved him to look often at us, to guefs I fuppofe at our intentions. I endeavored to clear his doubts with a fmile. In reply to the hakeem, we declared our fcruples to prefer complaints, llrangers as we were to the coun- try, and unaffured of protection. On this we were urged by E e moll [ 2IO ] mofr prefeiit to a plain recital of fa6ls, which they faid was but due to the honor of their mafter, whofe charadter would fufFer by the mal-treatment of flrangers, who were fufFered to leave his dominions without redrefs. Ibrahim on this advifed us to give a general ftatement of our lofles, >vithout fpecifying the names of our oppreflbrs ; which would irritate no one, and ftill obtain us the protection of the government. Had this counfel been follow- ed, it might have turned out better ; though it is impoflible for human judgment to determine it. The examination began un- der this reftri6lion, and Ibrahim exprefled fundry fums of money and articles of value we had been deprived of, by the arts and me- naces of perfons unknown. The vizier fate in the circle like a private man, and liftened in filence to the account of the robbe- ries ; in which he feemed fatisfied not to be declared an accom- plice. But the zeal of Abdul RuflTar quickly altered this peace- able fcene. I had obferved him fitting in a corner, with in- dignant looks and reftlefs poftures, when, unable to bear with the villainy of his countrymen any longer, he ftarted up, and pointing to his own neck as a pledge for our fafety, he went iip to the hakeem, and pronounced aloud, that our doubts of protection prevented the truth from appearing in its proper colors. That, to his knowledge, our hofl Mahomet had for- ced money and effefts from us ; and that the vizier himfelf had defrauded us of fhauls and other things to a confiderable amount. But the integrity and courage of this poor fellow met with a very unworthy recompence. He had built more than ourfelves upon thfe regal authority, which could not, in the perfons of the fliaik's officers, fliield him from danger and difgraCe. The vizier rofe abruptly from his feat, and half drawing his fabre, would have flopped his countryman in his tale, had he not been luckily prevented by thofe near liim. The aflembly broke up in confufion, and we could not but 3 be [ an ] be alarmed for our own fafety at fuch a moment. No fooner was Abdul Ruflar delivered from one enemy, than he encounter- ed others more, bitter in the hofl and his family, who fell furi- oufly on him in the prefence of the hakeem, and it was with much difficulty that we refcued him from their hands, at the ex- pence of fome heavy blows. But the fcene did not conclude here. To make good our hoft's affertion, that every one is abfolute in his own houfe, he turned the vizier, hakeem, and all the fhaik's officers out of doors, and told them deridingly, to go and confult elfewhere. Our faithful domeftic would fain have followed them, but he was prevented J. which fo intimidated him, that dreading the refentment of the family, he came unobferved to our terrace, and dropped himfelf thirty feet at leaft, from a perpendicular height, into the ftreet. He efcaped ; but not, we apprehend, with- out fon\e Iprain or contufion, from fo defperate a leap. This tumult had fcarcely fubfided, when one of a more ferioug and infulting nature enfued. Apprehenfive of a difcovery, and perhaps weary of carrying about fuch a load, Ibrahim had depoii- ted the bag of Venetians which he was charged with, in the. cor- ner of a dark room which held fire-wood. The major was appri- zed of this flep, and might very well be fatisfied of the fecurity of his treafure. But the prying difpofition of the family furmount- ed our precaution. Ibrahim had been met coming out of this room by Ally, before the arrival of the hakeem and his com- pany. Sufpicion is ever on the watch, and gives a motive to every aftion that falls under its obfervation. The late difpute, in which he had borne fo a6live a part, had not driven it from this fellow's mind ; who, when all was quiet again, flole up foftly to the room which had excited his curiofity. Ibra- him by good fortune faw him enter it, and crying loudly for af- fiftance, ran towards the place which concealed the money. He was heard and followed by the major and my European E e 2 fervant. t 2f2 ] feivant, who found him at the room-door ftruggling for the- bag, which Ally had fecured, and would have retreated with. Numbers however prevailed, and the bag was prefently redeemed from the rafcal's gripe, who retired, muttering vengeance againft us. We had foon reafon to lament this unfortunate difcovery. It awakened a new fpirit of avarice in our hoft, and confirmed him in his exaggerated ideas of our wealth. He came up flairs, attended by the informer Ally and his fervants, armed with fvvords and fpears, to demand the contefted treafure. ' We had expefted this, and in the interval, the major had time to change the bag of Venetians for one of rupees, w^hich was not a twentieth part its value. The gold was again committed to Ibrahim's waift, and the filver was carelefsly thrown into one of the trunks. The de- ception fucceeded -, and, after fome altercation, the bag was pro- duced from the trunk, and impofed upon Ally for the one that he had feized upon. The bulk was nearly the fame, though no- thing but the confufion he was in, can account for his not diftinguifliing the difference between the weight of the gold and filver. Though this aflion was nothing lefs than a robbery, thefe Arabs were willing to give it a more favorable term, and faid, that they took it on condition of providing us with a boat, and accelerating our departure. There was fomething too grofs in this behavior to amufe us with expectation ,- but we were as ready as themfelves to fave appearances, and to conceal our mor- tification at being fubjecled to fuch violence. Some of our com- pany had propofed manual refiflance ; and a mufket was aftually taken up on the occafion, which was laid down upon a convic- tion of the folly of oppofition, where our lives were not concerned, in a country fo inimical to Chriflians, and fo fevere in its decrees againft thofe, who, however juftly, have dipped their hands in the blood of a Mahometan. We adopted a middle courfe, and fo far maintained our dignhv, as to infift upon the hoft's dif- jj milling r 2^3 r mifllng his fei-vants before we would treat with him. This he eafily comphed with, and received the bag containing eighty- feven rupees, with many aflurances of fidehty, and promifes to effeft our deliverance from this city. Our hoft juftified the opinion we entertained of him. So far from keeping his woi'd, and endeavoring to ferve us, in return for the money he had extorted, he only left us, to contrive feme method to make fure of our remaining treafure. In lefs than half an hour he returned,, accompanied by two villains, who called themfelves the fervants of the Shaik Ul Ai'ab, and who produced a paper, which they termed his order to fearch our baggage. Though we could not but doubt the authenticity of this paper, we were far from oppofmg a meafure which we had fo often folicited ; and which we hoped would deliver us from further perfecution on this head. It is too cutting to my refleftion to recount the particiilars of this fcrutiny, which was conduced rather with the violence and indecency of a robbery, than with the forms of a fearch. Not a fingle thing efcaped the hands of thefe fellows, that was of the. leafl: value. Mr. Hammond, among other articles, loft a pair of filver-mounted piftols, which he had hitherto preferved, and they plundered the major of his filver fpoons, a filver urn handfomely chafed, and weighing above hfty oiinces, which he had in vain concealed within fome kitchen utenfils, belides a quantity of linen to a conhderable amount. From me they took a filver hookah, a fet of gold buckles, two pieces of Indian hankerchiefs, a gold brocade waiftcoat, and a Turkifh gown, which, at the loweft calculation, were worth 200 dollars. I left the room while this fcene was ti-anfa<5ling, as it was to the laft degree grating to my nature, to behold, unre- venged, fo daring an outrage againft all divine and human laws. They retired about eight o'clock in the evening, loaded with their fpoils, and we threw ourfelves upon the floor, to endeavor to get fome [ 214 ] fomc rcpofe, after a day fpent in uproar, altercation, and fa- tigue : infomuch that we had not leifure to take a proper refrefli- ment. It is no wonder if our reft was difturbed, and our ima- gination haunted with gloomy ideas, under fuch peculiar circum- ftances. We could obferve from our windows a ftrong guard to be ported about the houfe, with camels ready faddled at the door, but for what purpofe we knew not j whether to take us to the boat, or to any place more fuitable to their black defigns. We were deprived of our fervant, who ufed to provide us with the neceffaries of life, and were to truft to chance for the mor- row, fhould it ever dawn upon our eyes, after the unparalleled treatment we had fuffered. Guilt might poffibly be. touched by the ftings of diftruft and fear -, and to quiet thefe monitors, it was uncertain how much further our perfecutors would plunge themfelves into the abyfs of wickednefs. In the variety of this diftrefs, life was ftill dear i and, diverted as it was of eafe and en- joyment, we flept v/ith arms in our hands, to preferve it from violence ! SATURDAY, 9th August. The dawn relieved us from our apprehenfions, but found us in all the agitations of fufpence. We were chiefly diftrerted at the abfence of Abdul Ruffar. We knew not what mifchance might have befallen him, in his attempt to efcape the death which was intended him j and we were at a lofs to furnifh ourfelves with provifion for the day. There was a rilk attended the going abroad of Ibrahim, after the adventure of yefterday ; and. we had not much dependence on the charity of the family, who had already forfeited every pretenfion to humanity in our eftimation. We had luckily a little coffee left, which we boiled, and made out a breakfaft with the ft ale bread of yefterday. About an hour after [ 215 ] after this, a fervant of the houfe unexpe^edly brought us up fome milk mixed with water, with a fcanty allowance of bread. We underftood that we were indebted to our hoft for this meagre repaft, but we neither faw him, his brother, nor any living crea- tures but at a diflance, during the whole morning. Among thefe were our kind friends in the oppofite houfe, to whom only we now appear to be of the leaft confequence. Thefe compaffionate females had been alarmed at the tumult in our apartment on the preceding evening. I had obferved them, at the time, frequently peep over their wall, to fee what was going on, and feem- mgly anxious about the confequences. Nor had they exhaufted their attention towards us. At the ftill hour of noon, when the ftreets are deferted by the people, they came to their terrace, and with fympathizing looks would have confoled our fufferings. Often did they wipe their eyes which were faffufed with tears, and as often did they inquire, by the moft fignificant figns, whether our lives had been endangered during the tranfaftions of the paft day. Notwithftanding our forlorn condition, we fliould have little deferved the name of men, if this behavior had failed to make a fuitabfe impreflion upon our minds. Like the cordial which is adminiftered to the dying patient, it ferved to revive our Ipirits, though we were fenfible its effedls were temporary and infufficient. Their generofity was equally extended to our "wants. Naturally fuppofmg that we were ftinted in our nou- riftiment in fuch an inhofpitable houfe, thefe affeftionate fouls threw over loaves of bread and boiled eggs, tied up carefully in their vails, which came fafely to us, and would have proved a plentiful fupply, if fomething extraordinary had' not difturbed them while taken upwich this charitable a6l. We are appre- henfive that they were difcovered aflifling us by their keeper; and, as they did not appear to us again, that they are doomed to ftri6ler confinement, for exerting an impulfe of benevolence to their [ 2r6 ] their fellow-creatures in diftrefs ! No breaft but a Miifluhnan's, could harbor a jealous thought on fuch an occalion, or con- found a principle of compaflion witli an amorous inclination to- wards perfons in our fituation. About two o'clock the fame fervant whom we had feen before, brought us a wretched compofition of eggs and oil, which, for my part, I found it was impoilible to touch. I was content, therefore, to adapt my meal to our prifon, and dined upon bread and wa- ter. At this moment we had notice given us, that the hakeem and his train were below flairs, and that he purpofed to remove us in the evening from this hateful habitation. He prefently came up to us, to confirm this agreeable intelligence, and received our cordial acknowledgments for his humane intentions. We had experienced many reverfes of fortune fince our arrival in this country, but none fo fudden, fo unlooked-for, as the prefent. From the circumftances which attended the hakeem's expulfion yefterday, we little expefted to fee him re-enter the houfe in tri- umph, and refcue us from the force which had fo fuccefsfuUy op- pofed him before. But it feems that he comes armed with new powers from the fhaik, to take us immediately under his own protedion. It is not eafy to unravel the politics of this ftate -, but the decifive behavior of our hoft laft night, is a prefumptive evi- dence of his authority being about to draw to a conclufion. He has plundered us of all he could lay his hands upon, and he wife- ly abfents himfelf at a period when he either cannot, or does not, think it worth his while to detain us. We found from the ha- keem, that Abdul RuiTar is fecurely lodged in his houfe, tho' his legs and feet are violently contufed by the fall. We are happy in his fafety ; but the damage which this faithful adherent has fuf- tained in our caufe, cannot but flrongly affed us. The hakeem now bade us farewell until fun-fet, when he promifed to return with a camel and an efcort, to convey us and our baggage to a dwelling [ 217 ] dwelling of his own. To prevent the family from giving us any farther dillurbance, he left a fervant at the door of our apartment, whom he direcfted to keep watch during his abfence. There was no danger, however, of our being molefted in the fmalleft degree. The houfe appeared to be abandoned by its in- habitants ; and this folitude luckily afforded the major an oppor- tunity of recovering his coftly fword, from the hole in which it had been depofitcd. This he once more fewed up in his bed ; and we had packed up the remains of our baggage, long before the appointed hour of our removal. We waited with great pa- tience until the day clofed, and it was quite dark before any of us betrayed the leaft uneafinefs at the hakeem's flay. But as the night waxed old, we relapfed into the dreadful flate of uncertainty which we had fo repeatedly known. We had not a doubt of the vera- city of the hakeem ; but we began to fufpe<5t that our enemies had prevailed againfl him, either by fecret intrigues or open vio- lence. We were apprized of their animofity, and we had every thing to dread from their fuccefs. It was ten o'clock before this gloomy profpefl was diflipated, by the arrival of the hakeem. He came attended by a party of foldiers, and a camel to tranfport our baggage. The villain Ally had now the affurance to fhew him- felf, and to fuperintend the removal of our things. Before wc went out, the hakeem obliged us to prime our fire-arms anew, and dropped certain expreflions which feemed to Ibrahim to im- ply danger on the road. Had we been convinced of an am.bufcade being laid for us, we ihould rather have preferred to encounter it, now we were patronized by the government, than to have remain- ed in an houfe, which had been a fcene of mortification and deceit to us. The die was caft, and we were to abide by its decifioni which we did, by marching after our camel and fervants, who help- ed to carry the baggage, accompanied by the hakeem and his guard. Each of the fervants took a lighted taper in his hand, F f and. [ 2l8 ] and, to heighten the fcene, we were enjoined profound filence. In this manner did we traverfe a number of ftreets, each of which we found fecured by a gate ; and after going above half a mile, arrived at the place of our defirination about eleven o'clock, with- out having met with any interruption. We were introduced by the hakeem to our lodging, and after pafling through a large court, were carried up Hairs to a fmall, but airy, bed-room. Our baggage was alfo brought up, and depofited in a back-room, where the fervants are to fleep. The friendly hakeem now took his leave of us, and fixing a centry at our door to protedt us, left us to enjoy almoft the only found reft we had known fmce our departure from Cofire. SUNDAY, loth August. Here are we, after all our difficulties and dangers, fafely pounded within the precin6ls of an haram. Such, on our awak- ing this morning, did we find the houfe we were got into. It is an antique ftruflure, much injured by time, and ftands upon a fpacious foundation, though the apartments are fmall, and hud- dled together after the mode of thefe eaftern piles of lafcivioufnefs. Around our chamber the floor is raifed about two feet from the ground, v/hich ferves us to eat upon by day, and to fleep luxuri- oufly upon by night. Hence we have a fine view of the river» from which we are but two or three fl:reets diftant. It is here- fecmingly lefs than a mile in breadth, and difcovers Ltfelf through, different openings in the gardens, with which this city is adorned. The wind from the north-v/eft now prevails, and meets the cur- rent, which runs with the utmofl: rapidity towards the fea. This produces a fine eftecl. The town lines this fide of the Nile, and the oppofite bank is bordered by a mountain, which at one place- breaks ofl'a'bruptly, and difclofes a large plain, covered with en- 2 clofures [ 319 ] clofures of grain, and here and there embelliilied with groves of date and orange trees. While we were indulging ourfelves with this profpecl, we had a vifit from the friendly hakeem, who feem- ed alarmed at our expohng ourfelves to public view, and haftily fhut our windows. He excufed this check to our curiofity, from the neceflity there was for us to remain in privacy until the ar- rival of his mafter, or of further orders from him refpefling our concerns. We could not but acquiefce in this meafurc ; and after bidding us to rely on the juftice of the Shaik Ul Arab, he left us to partake of a meal of good bread and milk, which his domeftics had provided for us. Our breakfaft was fcarcely over, when the hakeem fent for Ibrahim, to attend him at his own houfe. We expe6t^ this interview will determine fomething pofxtive about our fate. When we left Cofire, we laid our account that our troubles •would end with our journey to the Nilt. Who could have dreamt that after efcaping the perils of the defart, we Ihouid be reduced to defpair in a populous city ! It were better that our baggage had been funk to the bottom of the Red Sea, than that it flaould have afforded us a trifling part of the uneafinefs we have fuffercd. Pri- foners for ten days in a private houfe, where each moment was impoifoned by the uncertainty of our deftiny, we were now, per- haps, in a more honorable confinement in the hands of govern- ment, which we fhrewdly fufpe6f afferts our caufe, rather from a defire of recovering the plunder for itfeif, than of doing juftice to us. But we ai^e content if our departure can be purchafed at fo low a price. , . , We were anxious to fee Abdul RufTar, whofe ankles we find are much more flrained by his fall, than were at firft reported. But he is not to be moved here until the evening, when we fliall be able to adminifler fuch relief to him, as is in our power to <lo. At one o'clock Ibrahim returned to us, andvve underfland that tlie hakeem has got out of him all our loffes, not excepting F f 2 the [ 220 ] the other night's pillage, which he had at firft determined to con- ceaU And with feme reafon, as the villains threatened our lives if we divulged it to any one. But Ibrahim fays, there was no one prefent at the examination, but a Chriftian feci'etary, who took it down, and the hakeem privately aflured him, that his mafter would give orders to feize the robbers, and make themre- ftore their booty. God only knows the termination of this mat- ter ; but, for our parts, we would compromife to efcape with our prefent damages. We now ate heartily of a plentiful meal, which Ibrahim had provided for us. Mutton, fifli, and vegetables, are very cheap here, and no European could complain of their man- ner of diefCng their food. We faw nobody during the evening, but the fervants belonging to the houfe. But v^e received a complimentary melfage from the hakeem, with notice of his mafter's approach, who is expedt- ed here immediately. Thefe are welcome tidings to us, who have no idea of getting away, until the arrival of this great man. It is our plan to be rid of this place as foon as poflible ; and we pro- pofc to make a tender to the ihaik of all he may recover on our accounts. Happy, if we have the luck to efcape without further pillage. /I In order that we might enjoy th'C benefit of a cool wind, and a moon-light evening, we went to bed very early, as we had been defired not to open our windows until the lights were extingu fh- ed. And now an adventure occurred, which was romantic to the laft degree, and bore a refemblance to tliofe feigned ones, portray- ed by the inimitable pencil of Cervantes. I was awakened out of a found nap about ten o'clock, by a loud knocking at the gate, which fecures the upper end of the ftreet we live in. I found my companions had been difturbed by the fame noife, and were equally furprized with myfelf at the ftrangenefs of it. Prefently after the gate was opened, and a number of people affembled be- is. fore [ 221 ] fore our houfe, whom we could difcern by the light of the mootr^' difpofing themfelves in different fituations on the ground, and converfing with great earneftnefs and vociferation. While we were pondering on the iffue of this bufinefs, which had an alarm- ing appearance at fuch an hour of the night, when we knew our refidence was meant to be kept fecret, and that our lives might be fought by the villains whom we had informed againft, I went out on the back terrace to awake the guard, which was ftationed to prote61: us, when fuddenly a band of mulic ftruck up without, and recalled me to the fcene of a6tion. This band was compofed of firing, wind, and parchment inllruments, and though the harmony was none of the belt, it could not fail to have a Angu- lar effedt upon our imaginations, haunted as they were with doubts and apprehenfions. A fmgle voice fometimes accompa-i nied the mufic, which was in general of a melancholy ftrain. This ferenade lafted until midnight, and when the moon went down, it was continued by torch-light. But the intent of it we are ut- terly at a lofs to difcover. Whether to celebrate a marriage, or a funeral, or whether it was performed by the hakeem's guard, to divert their mafter or ourfelves. It was one o'clock before the night was reftored to its ufual quiet ; at which time I fell alleep, but had my repofe difturbed by the extravagance of fancy, which brought a motley jumble to my mind, of mufic, harams, arms, captivity, and impafl'able v.'aftes ! "''^^ *".''' MONDAY, nth August. This day was the moft barren of incidents of any that we have long experienced. Not a meflage, nor the leaft intelligence from the hakeem, in regard to our affairs. This has at leaft a good appearance. He means, perhaps, to wait the arrival of his maf- ter, inftead of deceiving us with the hopes of his own interpofi- tion, and obtaining prefents from us on that fcore, like the vizier o and [ 222 ] and the people into whofe hands we at firft fell. Wc learn from Ibrahim, that the rude concert laft night was intended for the ha- keem's entertainment, who is our neighbor, and who fate fmok- ing and drinking coffee with his women the greateft: part of the night. This is a favorite diverfion with the Arabs and Turks, who keep themfelves ftill during the heat of the day, and enjoy * the cool hours of the night, and the ferene light of the moon, with a relifh unknown to the inhabitants of the inclement north. Thofe only who have partaken of this enchanting fcene, under a fky ftill unclouded, can form an idea of its luxury ; where the ve- ry dews are genial, and the night-breeze carries a temperate cool- nefs on its wing. And this feafon favors more the bringing of their women into view ; when lilence and folitude prevail with- out, and afford them the felfifli fatisfadlion of beholding beauty, without theintrufion of a rival, and tafting of its charms with the avarice of mifers . At four o'clock we had a vifit from the hakeem, who only ftaid to enquire after our healths, and to reaffure us of his protedlion. We had determined on making this man a prefent, to fecure his further good offices, and finding that he was averfe to taking any thing but money, we fent him twenty-one Venetians by Ibrahim, with an apology for the fmallnefs of the donation, which had been bounded by our poverty. To our great joy, our domeftic, Abdul RufTar, returned with Ibrahim from the hakeem's houfe. He was obhged to be moved in the arms of the fervants, though we are pleafed to find that his hurts do not portend any ill effects. One of his ankles is quite reduced, and the other promifes fair to admit of his getting abroad in a few days. TUBS. [ 223 ] TUESDAY, i2th August. The indlfpofition of Abdul RufTar has ah-eady proved very in- convenient to us. Our filver is expended, and we are at a lofs to- exchange our gold for dollars, or to gain any intelligence of what is pafling without doors, during this poor creature's confinement. He often cautions us againfl trufting any of his countrymen in matters of fuch importance ; fenfible as he is of their want of cha- rity for Chriftians. As for Ibrahim, he is as much a prifoner as ourfelves. The hakeem tells him, that he cannot anfwer for his fafety, until the fliaik returns, fhould he fall in the way of our old hofl and his gang. We are too well afcertained, from ocular proof, of the little order which fubfifts here in the ab- fence of the chief, to doubt it. We learn that his return is anxioufly expected by the whole city, and cannot be very diftant, if we may truft to the information of Abdul Ruflar, who fays,, fuch is the temper of this people, and fuch the inftability of this government, fhould the fhaik i^emain for any length of time in another place, the inhabitants of Ghinnah would throw off all fubmifTion to his officers, and fall to cutting each other's throats. What a bleffed land have we dropped into! What a race are we amongft ! who are only to be ruled by the fword, and to be taught humanity at the expence of their blood ! We had fcarcely breakfafled when the hakeem entered our apartment, accompanied by a man whom we had frequently feen at Cofire. He had been affiduous in his vifits to us there,, and had proffered us the ufe of his houfe during our flay at Ghin- nah. This the fliaik of Cofire prevented by his intrigues, and the man arrived here yefterday in the caravan. We find he is a merchant of this city, and though, agreeably to the mode of Arabian [ 224 ] Arabian travellers, he was wont to afflime a poor habit at Co- fire, we now faw him in a creditable drefs, and feemingly on an intimate footing with the hakeem. He lamented our misfor- tunes, which were the common topic of converfation, and re- proached us for not having accepted of his offers of alhilance. Though he mufl: have been fenfibie that we did not merit this re- proach, while our condu6l was direfted by another, and though we have caufe to be on our guard againft the profeflions of an Arabian, there is little doubt but we Ihould have fared better under this man's prote6lion, than in the vile hands we fell into. Our prefent fituation is far from being difagreeable. The hakeem is civil and attentive to us, and at the fame time does not pefter us with his company, or folicit us for prefents. From this cOndu6l we draw more favorable omens, than from any incident fince the change of our fituation ; and as he confirms the report of the fhaik's approach, we endeavor to refign our- felves with patience, for the accomplifliment of that defirable event. It may be, that our releafe will be at laft owing to the interpofition of Mr. Baldwin at Cairo. We have great expeftations that our letters are both fafely delivered to him. The reward of five dollars, which is to attend the receipt of each, is the flrongeft incentive that could be devifed to fecure the fidelity of the meflengers. But fortune has been fo much out of humor with us of late, that we cannot promjfe ourfelves a return of her fmiles, until they beam upon us. Juft as we had laid down to reft, there was a knocking at the outward gate, which we found to be made by the hakeem, who came to borrow one of our fufees. He was mounted on a fine horfe, which I obferved from the window, and was accompa- nied by a party of armed men on foot. He fent us word, that he was going about tlie town to preferve peace and good order j [ 2^5 ] order; which is a neceflary pra6tice in cities better regulated than Ghinnah. WEDNESDAY, 13th August. We arc obliged to be early rifers, in order to receive the com- pany that wait upon us during the cool of the morning. We have generally finiflied our breakfaft by feven o'clock, and at that hour to-day we were fummoned by our fervants to the back terrace, which commands a noble view of the river, to fee a number df boats under fail. Thefe we learnt were the Banute fleet, which arrived here two days after us ; with the foldiers of which our hofl, the vizier, and others, had alarmed us, and forced us to pay down a fum of money, which was falfely charged to their account. They are going down to Jirje, and being chiefly gallies, painted, and gilt, and adorned with ftreamers, they cut no contemptible appear- ance in falling down with the fl:ream, to the amount of twenty boats. We defcried armed troops on the poop of each galley, and heard the drums beating to arms on board. There is a myftery in the accounts of thefe Banute people, which we cannot unravel. Immediately after their departure, we hada vifit from the hakeem, who threw open the windows of our apartments, and told us with a chearful air, that we had now nothing to fear, as the Banute people, wlio are a ifet of thieves, and apt to plunder defencelefs veflels on the river, were failed for Jirje. This defcription nei- ther anfwers the ftay which thefe people made here, nor the good condition of their boats, which is far from befpeaking them to be a needy race. We therefore enquired of the hakeem of the origin and government of Banute -, and were told, that it formerly be- longed to his mafl:er, the Shaik Ul Arab, but had lately been ta- iten poflefllon of by the Turks. This confirmed us in a vague re- G g port [ 226 ] port we had heard, of Baimte being really in the hands of Ibra- him Beg. It might confequently be, that the hakeem wifhed for his mafter's return, that juftice might be done us ere we proceed- ed to Cairo ; and was willing to conceal us from the Turks, whom he artfully reprefented as robbers, to prevent our applying to them for a pafTage. So ftrongly had this prepoffeffion taken hold of our minds, that fome among us were not wanting to la- ment our ignorance of this circumftance, and to confider the de- parture of the Banute fleet, as a preclufion to the efcape which we had fo long meditated. At five o'clock the hakeem paid us a fecond vifit, in which he was accompanied by two confiderable merchants of the town. They all produced letters from the fliaik, which they told us refpefled our lofTes, and his coming to redrefs our wrongs. When the merchants took their leave, the hakeem afk- ed us, whether we were inclined to take a walk with him to the river-fide. This agreeable invitation my companions were obli- ged to decline, as the rafcals who plundered our trunks, had not left them a Turkifli gown : but I readily accepted of it, as I had a gown that luckily efcaped their fearch. It is eafy to conceive the joy I felt at being reftored to the freedom of the air, after our perilous confinement ; not to mention the good face which our affairs aflumed by this ftep, as the people's intentions mufl: appear to be honeft, who expofed us to the eyes of the town. I accordingly arrayed myfelf in the befl manner, and followed the hakeem, attended by my European fervant and Ibrahim. As we walked towards the river, we were accompanied by a croud of people, who behaved themfelves veiy refpedfully -, awed, perhaps, by the prefence of the hakeem and his guard. We foon left the town, and afcended a dyke which is thrown round it, to prevent it fufFering by the inundations of the Nile. I had the good for- tune to be witnefs to the commencement of this periodical pheno- 6 menon. f 227 ] menon, by mere chance. From the dyke we defcended to the li- ver, by a pier that extends itfelf to the natural ftrand, and mea- fures fome hundreds of yards in length. At the extremity of this pier we feated ourfelves on carpets, which were fpread for us on the ground, and I had full leifure to furvey the obje6ts around me, the novelty and beauty of which equally engaged my admira- tion. The Nile is originally of a tolerable breadth here, and at other feafons would not difappoint the traveller in his expe6lations of fo celebrated a ftream. But two days ago it began to afTume a grander afpeft. The kitchen-gardens which fupply the town, and ftand in the low grounds, are already overflown ; and feveral channels are opened in the bank, through which the waters ruih with great rapidity, and promife by to-morrow night to fpread themfelves to the dyke, which is at leaft a quarter of a mile dif- tant. The fame efFe6ls feem to have been produced on the oppo- iite fide ; where I obferved the country to be overflown even to the mountain's edge, and the rifmg lands to appear like iflands in the waters. In mid-channel the ftream runs with amazing force; carrying down ruflies, bufhes, and fragments of trees, which the floods have fwept away with them from the heights, and will in a few days difcharge into the Mediterranean. The fun was fallen behind the hills on the weftern banks, from whofe burnifhed tops a dazzling radiance played upon the ruffled waters. The boats glided along their curling furface : the date-groves rung with the amorous cooings of a thoufand doves, and the cattle lowed in the diftant dale. The charms of this lovely evening are beyond my art to depicture, but they will be ever faithfully imprinted on my imagination. At dulk we returned homeward, and I could ob- tain but a very imperfeft fight of Ghinnah from this point of view ; as it ftretches towards the river like the end of a Turkifh flipper, and is fcreened by the dyke from the eye. We pafled by a bridge on our way back, turned on a Angle arch over a creek where the boats G g 2 He, r 228 ] lie, and which appears to be a modem work of no elegant defign*. *• It'raay not prove' unpleafing to the reader, to compare the obfervations of other travellers on this place and its neighborhood. As we pafled over the defart be- tween Colire and Ghinnah, we can confirm the alTertion of Captain Norden, that there are no remains of the antient canal mentioned by Herodotus and others, to have been dug for conveying goods from the Nile to the Red-fea. Ghinnah and its environs are ftill noted for manufadturing the beft earthen-ware in Egj'pt ; in the bottoms of which, the fame peculiarity fubfifts as related by Dr. Pococke. " At two o'clockin the afternoon there. cameon a calm, which obliged us to land on the fame fide, a little below Giene, or Kiene, a town, which is not at prefent very confiderable, but which has, however, a mofque. There was formerly in this place a great commerce 5 for they had made a road which led to Cofire, a port of the Red-fea} and in three days they croffed the defarts of Thebais. But it prefent this route is not fecure, on account of the robbers. " I had been told much of the antiquities of this place, which engaged me to go thither J but I found nothing there. The inhabitants themfelves of the place could . give me no account of them. In vain did I feek for the antient canal that was dug For conveying merchandizes to the Red-fea, and for bringing others from thence by this means. I did not perceive the leaft mark of it, neitlier in the town, nor in the adja-? cent places. It is in this town they celebrate every year the great feftival, at which the Bey of Girge is commonly prefent ; but not without having firfl: obtained per- miflion from the Arab princes or Schechs. ' " I perceived that all the neighboring places oiG'iene were covered with all forts of plants, fuch as pompions, coloquintidas, and others, which were, for the moftpart, unknown to me. As I did not fee any corn there, I imagined that they had cut itj and that the plants which I perceived, were the fecond produft of the ground. " There were in the neighborhood of the town divers poirds, in which water was* preferred after the inundation ; but it was not good for drinking. It had a brackifli: tafte, which it takes from the foil itfelf ;" and indeed the inhabitants do not ufe it for any other purpofe than watering their grounds, and giving drink to theic cattle." Norden's Travels in Egypt, &c. vol. ii. " We now purfued our voyage with a fine wind, and pafTed by the canal that joes to the city'of Coptos, which is at prefent remarkable for making the beft ear- then-ware in Egypt, it being very light and much efteemed; but they could never be prevailed on to make the vafes with broad bottoms, that they might fland without danger of falling ; fo that the people are obliged to fet. them in wooden frames." Pococke's Travels, chap, vi, 1 I found' [ 229 ] .1 found myfelf rather fatigued from my walk, and was glad of the approach of our hour of repofe, which, for want of candle- light, we are obliged to anticipate as foon as the day is clofed. But we were awakened from our firft deep by the founds of tink- ling inftruments, accompanied by a chorus of female voices. I looked out of the window, and faw a band of thirty damfels at leaft, come tripping towards us, with meafured paces, and ani- mated geftures. The moon fhone very bright, and we had a full vievy of them, from their entering the gate of our ftreet, vmtil they reached our houfe. Here they flopped, and fpreading them- felves in a circle before the door, renewed the dance and fong with infinite fpirit,7and recalled to our minds the piflure which is fo fully given of thefe. dancing females in holy writ. After they had favored us a few minutes with their lively perform* ance, they moved on to the hakeem's houfe, and ferenading him with an air or two,. this joyous band quitted our quarter, and went, as the dying founds informed us, to awaken the other (lumberers of the town, to melody and joy ! Thefe are certainly the defendants of the women of Ifrael, whofe beauty and Ikill gladdened the heart of the fapient king. The dancing girls of India are not to be fpoken of at the fame time : they are but an illegitimate race, were their excellencies to be compared with thofe of the nymphs of the Nile. Had thefe figures prefented themfelves to me in a vifion, I fhould have concluded that they were the fair inhabitants of our manfion, who were come to demand the reftitution of their late pofiefllons ! THURSDAY, 14th August. We were impatient to know the caufe of the agreeable dif--; turbance we met with laft night, and learnt from one of ou:e guard, that the dancing girls obferve the ceremony we were wit^ ' nefs [ 230 ] nefs to, on the firft vifible rife of the Nile. It feems that they took our houfe in their way to the river, where they went down to bathe at that late hour, and to fing the praifes of the benevo- lent Power, who yearly diftributes his waters to fupply the necef- fities of the native. It is defigned, to all appearance, that we fhall meet with no friends in this inhofpitable region, or immediately lofe the pro- tection of thofe who have difplayed a ray of humanity for us. We were but this morning congratulating ourfelves, on having fallen into the hands of a good man, who has not only refcued us from the houfe of a villain, but has even fheltered us under his own roof. He had yefterday admired a couple of carpets be- longing to Mr. Hammond and me. We had fent them to him after breakfall, when he paid us a vifit to thank us for our attention. He came efcorted by a large train, little dreaming" how fliortly his glories would fet, which now flione forth in meridian luftre. The change in his fortune was announced to us about five o'clock in the afternoon, when feveral ftrange fervants- came to our houfe. Their errand was to advife us of the ap- proach of a new hakeem, who was fent by the fhaik to difplace our friend, and meant to take up his quarters for the night, in the back part of our habitation. While we were forming conjec- tures on this fudden event, feveral of the principal merchants of the town vifited us, to confii'm the news. They affured us, that the fliaik had particularly charged this new officer with our affairs, and had difmiffed the old hakeem from his employment,'' for having fuffered European travellers to be plundered, and de-'^ tained within his jurildiflion. In our own minds, we would^ readily have difpenfed with this feverity, to a man who had rendered us the moll material fervices. Moreover, we could not but fufpeft, that the intereft of the vizier, and others who had benefited by our arrival, had prevailed againft the more honeft chara<Sler [ 231 1 character that had exerted itfelf in our behalf. This reflection wounded us deeply, as the truth of it might reduce us to our former defperate fituation. Confidering the bad treatment we had met with, it is not ftrange that we fhould be jealous of any innovai^ tion in the protection which had been lately extended to us ; and,' in our experience of this tribe, that we fliould doubt of finding a fecond man of moderation among the officers of government. About fun-fet the new hakeem arrived, and fent us word that* he was ready to receive us. This is the firft vifit we had paid to another. We found him feated upon a carpet on the back ter^^ race, with a crowd of people about him. He is an elderly man,*^ tall, thin, and of a mean appearance; diftant in his behavior,'^ and feemingly full of his own confequence. This may pofllbly arife from thelownefs of his origin, which is that of an Abyf-' fmian flave. His deportment was fo different from that which diftinguifhed his predeceffor in office, that we could not but look upon him as an arrogant upftart, who promifcd to abufe the fa- vour of his lord. He condefcended, however, to tell us, with a fmile, that his mafter had recommended us to his good offices, and had dire6led that the ftrideft juftice fhould be rendered to us. While we ftaid, a number of perfons came to pay their compliments to him, among which was Sauker, one of the raf- cals who had affifted the two brothers to pillage our baggage. By this effrontery he perhaps expefts to efcape fufpicion ; and to intimidate us by his prefence, from bringing a charge againft him. We foon retired to our apartment, and found that the vizier, among others, made his court to this new magiftrate. Nothing can be a more diredl implication of the arbitrary gd-^ vernment we are under, than the promotion of this Abyffmian to one of its firft dignities. When Charles of Sweden, the moft defpotic monarch of his age, wrote to the fenate of Stockholm, that he would fend his jack-boot to prefide over them ; ungrate- ful [ 232 ] ful as the idea was, it furely was lefs humiliating, than if he had threatened to difpatch a Turkifli flave from Bender for that pur- pofe. And yet we were now witnefs to the univerfal homage that may be paid to fuch a charafter. The fuddennefs «f his arrival, and the refpedl which he commands, no doubt befpeak, that he is charged with fome important bufmefs ; but we fhould be pleafed to depart, without waiting the iffiie of his errand, though it prove to be the reftitution of our lofles. The fhaik, it feems, is but a day's journey hence : but we fear we fhall be neceflitated to wait his arrival, which the critical fituation of his affairs ftill renders uncertain. We have not feen our old friend fince his difgrace, but we fent Ibrahim to make him our acknowledgments and good wifhes. He feemed much flattered with a mark of attention, fo new to a perfon in his condition ; and returned us affurances, that he will repre- fent our ftoiy in its true colors to the fhaik, for whofe court he is to fet off to-morrow or next day. This kind interpofition may ferve to advance our fuit ; and we underftand that we fhall then get rid of the company of our new guefl:, who goes into the hjoufe of his predeceflbr, on the latter's departure. His fervants let off fome paltry fire-works at night behind the houfe, for which they demanded a gratification. They were cunning enough to call that a compliment to us, which was more likely intended for their maflerj and we were glad to be releafed from their impertinence, at the expence of a few filrer pieces, of the value of a penny apiece. FRIDAY, 15th August, V/e do not find that we are likely to be as foon quit of our ^ueft, as we at firft expefted. There is no talk of his moving this L 233 ] this morning, and as it appears to depend upon the departure of his predeceffor, we may have the pleafure of his company for fome days longer. This is a fad reftraint upon us, who are confined to the front of the houfe, which confifls of two fmall apartments for ourfelves, and one, more roomy, for our fer- vants. Nor are we free from apprehenfions, left fome difcovery fliould be rnade to ciir difadvantage. The hakeem's fervants are continually mingling with ours, and may draw inferences of our abounding with money from our manner of living, if not from the imprudence of our people, whofe fimplicity may betray us, notwithftanding the cautions we have given them on this head. Juft as we had dined, an order came from the hakeem to clear the room which our fervants were in, for the reception of fome travellers. This, at the time, was a very difagreeable command to us, though it may turn out as much to our benefit, as any thing which has occurred fince our arrival here. The travellers prove to be a company of Turks, on their return to Cairo, from an ex- curfion into this country. There is a man of confequence among them, who, on notice of our being here, immediately fent fome of his attendants to enquire into our bufinefs in this quarter. It may be fuppofed that we were very particular in the narration of our troubles, and the ill ufage we had met with. The politenefs and humanity of thefe Turks were very ftriking to us, who had fo long experienced nothing but rudenefs and barbarity from the hu- man race. They regretted the impoflibility of having our com- pany on the road, without the permiffion of the Shaik Ul Arab ; and were hurt at the thoughts of leaving us among a people, whom t|iey feemed to have no opinion of. But they promifed to repre- fent our cafe to the bey of Cairo, and to exert all their intereft with him to demand our releafe from the fliaik. They acknowledged, however, that the reafons for detaining us until the fliaik's arrival, may be very good, as the river is at prefent fo infefted with pirates, H h that ' [ 2H ] that they are obliged themfelves to go by land to Cairo. There is a Chiiflian among them, who has charged himfelf with a third letter, which we have addrefled to Mr. Baldwin from this city. He is a confidential domeftic, and, by his influence, has prevailed upon the Turk his mafter, to write to the fhaik in our behalf, to ftate our uncomfortable condition, and to advife him to difpatch us forthwith to Cairo, as we are content to leave the punifhment of our oppreflbrs to his difcretion. Heaven knows what effe<ft this kind mediation may have with the fhaik ; but we have long fufpeflred that our releafe can only be accomplilhed from Cairo ; and are flocking ourfelves with a fund of patience to fupport us in the tedious interval. The Journey by land, we are told, is from ten to twelve days, and the Turks propofe to fet off at day- break. Allowing, therefore, three days for obtaining an order from the bey in our favor, three weeks at leafl mufl elapfe, be- fore the return of the anfwer which is to fet us at liberty. But Hope, the deceiver Hope! fometimes whifpers better things in our ears ; and as we are importunate in our defires to be fent away, we are inclined to expeft the fhaik will not detain us after his arrival at Ghinnah. V ■' SATURDAY, i6th August. The Turks have deferred their departure until night, which, on account of our reliance on their good offices at Cairo, and their delivery of our letter, has given us more vexation than the matter may defei-ve. The itch of avarice appears to have infed- ed the mafs of the people we are among, from the highefl to the lowefl. The new hakeem, though an AbafTee, and a flave to the Ihaik, cannot refift the difeafe, and is already fingering, in idea, the gold and valuables which he conceives us to pofTefs. He fent for ' [ 235 1 for Ibrahim at midnight, and queftioned him clofely toycliing our circumftances, and the prefpnts we made to his predeceflor .: and, laflly, tf we had any offering left for himfelf. Ibrahim, iu conformity to his inftru6liQns, reprefentcd the poverty we wer^e reduced to, and which utterly difabled us from tendering any thing worthy the hakeem's acceptance. He difclaimed all know- ledge of our having given either money or goods to the quondam hakeem, though he found that this man had got an item of the removal of our carpets. It is a bitter comfort to us to obferve, •that the man who was fent down by the fliaik to prote6l us, fliould be the firft to attempt our property. The fubflance of this mer- cenary interview we received from Ibrahim, while we were at breakfaft. We had vifits to-day from feveral of the Turkifh gentlemen, who are in the fuite of the grandee. They repeated their tenders of fei-vice on their arrival at Cairo. A very line Georgian boy is in the train, whofe beautiful features and fair complexion eafily diflinguifli him from the Turks. He is a ilave, and, we under- ftand, is in high favor with his mafter. As the hakeem had offered us the liberty of going abroad, when- ever we pleafed to apply to him for a fervant to prote<5l us, at five o'clock Mr. Hammond, who was now equipped with a cloak, ac- companied by myfelf, Ibrahim, and the hakeem's fervant, fallied forth. We dire6led our fteps to the bazar, or market-place, and entered a caravanfera, which attra6led our curiofity. Thefe buildings are receptacles for travellers, and are either erefted at the public expence, or by the donations of private people. The one we faw was a veiy large flru6lure. Its entrance was through a flone gateway, which led into a fquare court, furounded by apartments of two ftories. The ground-floor was open in front, and thrown upon arches, and divided into different rooms, by a baluflrade of flone. The back part was clofed, and appropri- H h 2 ated [ «36 ] ated for warehoufes for the merchant. Beneath one of thefe arches we found a Turk fitting, whom we had left at Yambo, and who had once put it into our heads to come by this inaufpi- cious route to Cairo. We immediately recognized one another, and were very hearty in our congratulations on tliis unexpefted meeting. He took us into his apartment, and placing coffee before us, very kindly condoled with us on our misfortunes, which had reached his ears. We find that he remains here, on account of the da;:gers on the river. After prefTmg this Turk to vifit us frequently, we took our leave, and walked without any interrup- tion to the river. Here we went on board a boat, which waits for a lading of coffee for the Cairo market. This boat is one of the moft convenient I ever faw. She has two cabbins, befides an awning of matts, thatextends to her main-maft. The roof is high, and, with the fides, handfomely carved and painted. We were politely received by the nokidah, who faid he hoped for our com- pany to Cairo. We fhould rejoice much to be accommodated in this manner in our voyage down the Nile. It was from this boat that the view of Ghinnah, which is annexed, was taken. At fun- fet we returned home, and found our good friends the Turks were preparing to decamp. At nine o'clock they mounted their camels to the number of twenty, well armed, and went off with the benefit of a fine moon, which renders ti'avelling at night very delightful in thefe ferene climates. The chief of the Turks rode on a fine dun camel, and was followed on another by the fprightly Georgi- an, well accoutered with a fcimitar and a matchlock* SUNDAY, 17th August. The hakeem has aftually fixed his refidence at our houfe, and means, we fuppofe, to take good care of us and our baggage. When the Turks went away, he took pofTefTion himfelf of their apartment^ rtl C 237 ] apartment, which was before occupied by our fervants. We are .now reduced to an uncomfortable fituation, and cannot enjoy a moment's privacy, but during the hours of meals and repofe. But we are determined to fufFer no further inconvenience from the vi- .cinity of the hakeem. We have accordingly dire6led our fervants to take up their lodgings at night on the terrace which extends itfelf over our apartments, and which we often afcend in the evening, to obtain a view of the country. We were furprized with an early vifit from the Turk, whom we had encountered at the camvanfera yeflerday, and were much pleaf- ed with this mark of his attention. He now gave us the particulai's of fome tranfa6lions at Yambo, which nearly concerned us, and which proved very fatisfaftory, in refpe6t to the meafures which .we had taken with Lt. * * *. The reader will remember our fepa- ration in the Red-fea, and the melancholy circmnftanccs which reduced us to the neceffityof returning him to Yambo, on a boat .bound to that port. On his arrival at Yambo, it appears, that his madnefs broke out with more violence than ever. Inftead of ; waiting for the boat's coming to an anchor, he Jumped over- board at the entrance of the harbor, and fwam to the beach be- low the town j and would have made his way into the country, had he not been purfued by fome of the mariners, who overtook him, and carried him before the vizier of Yambo. This was the feeond time he had been brought to this minifter in this extraordi- nary manner, and within the compafs of a few days. His mif- fortune had been more than fufpefted on the former occafion y but it was now communicated to the minifter by the nokidah of .the boat, who was charged with our meflage, to requeft that _Lt. * * * might be fent on the firft velTel to Judda. On his com- .ing into the vizier's prefence, he gravely demanded to be made a .Muffulman, and to be entertained in the fervice of the xerif. Tiiis • reqaefl: luckjly could not be complied with by the IVIahometan lavv», C 238 ] law, uhlch docs not admit of converts, who are deprived of the f»- colty to judge between right -and wrong. Neither does it now ^a- blifli its faith by the means of the fword. So different are the prin- ciples of the fame feft, when the flame of bhnd zeal has abated of its ardor. It happens, however, that the unhappy victims of mad- nefs meet with an attention in this counti y, that is not paid to ra- tional beings. They are confidered as infpir«d, becaufe hurried beyond the precincts of reafon ; and though they ftill ferve as a butt of ridicule to the fhafts of the vulgar, they are fecured by their fituation from the fhadow of an injury. On this principle the vizier afled. From his own wardrobe he gave the turban a^id Arabian drefs to Qur unfortunate companion, to humor his fren- zy, and fent him fafely to Judda, full of the idea of • having be- come a follower of Mahomet. Poor youth ! to what joy and fa- tisfa6lion wilt thou hereafter awake, fliould it pleafe God to reftore thee to thy fenfes. What will thy fenfations be, to confider the pafl: as no more than a dream ; to refleft on the dangerous abyfs that thou haft efcaped, by the interpofition of the Divine hand ! It muft occur to every human mind, that the news of his fafety was the moft pleafmg mufic to our ears. Driven by ftern neceflity to a feparation with him, when his condition wzs truly deplorable, we could not but admire at the happy turn which matters had taken. We had acted for the beft in fending Lt. * * * back to Judda; and could not but rejoice at the intelhgence which now reached us, of his being gone thither under proper protedion. Had he lefs fortunately remained with us ; had he been expofed to a month's fun in an open boat ; had he vifited the coafts of Eg)'pt ; toiled with the caravan over the defart, and experienced the opprcflion we have met with at Ghinnah, it is impofTible that his intelle6ls could have withftood the complicated fhock, and a confirmed madnefs, or perhaps death, would have enfued ! Where- as every good confequcnce is to be expefted from the ftep we 9 took i [ 239 ] took } every afliftance will be given him by the furgeon of the Swallow floop, which was luckily at Judda ; and we can pro- mife ourfelves that he was hofpitably received by our friend Cap- tain Bacon, and even accommodated with a paffage to Bombay, fhould the Adventure be bound to that port *. We alfo learn from this Turk, that the nokidah of our boat was more to blame than the vizier of Yambo, that we did not attempt to get to Suez. He went to the vizier while we were at anchor at the mouth of the harbor, and told him that he could reach no port but Cofue ! In the evening the major fallied out in an Arabian drefs, ■which he made here, accompanied by Ibrahim and our ufual guard. He returned with two Chriftian merchants, whom he liad got acquainted with. They are perfons of credit here, and very civilly invited us to repay their vifit. MONDAY, 1 8th August. We were difturbed at midnight by a knocking at the doory which proved to be the hakeem and Ibrahim, whom he had called -tip to attend him. This was the firft vifit he had paid us, and was ' as difagreeable as unexpefted. We at once gueffed the purport of 'it. He is a plain man, and did not ufe much ceremony in intro- ducing what he had fo much at heart. But we were at a lofs what to offer him, that could be acceptable. Money he pre- tended to decline taking, and we, with equal artiiice, pretended that we had none. There were two fets of fdver buttons, and two filver chains, which belonged to the regimentals and fwords of the major, and which had efcaped pillage. Thefe we produ- -ced, as the only remains of our goods which were of value j * The humane reader will rejoice with us, to know, that our deflgns rcipe<Sling our unfortunate companion were fully anfwered. That he found Captain Bacon at Judda, andreturnedin the Adventure to Bombay, recovered of his frenzy. " though [ 240 ] tliOLigh we promifed to acknowledge his fervices in a better aiianner from Cairo, fhould he procure an order froni the fhaik for our immediate departure. The weight of thefe toys attraCled jiis notice, though he did not feem to admire their workman- /liip, which was none of the beft. He however put them into his bofom, and dehred to look at fome of our cloaths. But fo particular was this fellow, that he could not be prevailed upon to peep into our trunks ; and fo fcrupulous, that he would not receive afmgle thing, until we put it into his hands. A pretty falvo truly, for his confcience, which gral'ped at all in our pof- feflion ! Befides the filver articles, he cawied away three broad- cloth coats of different colors, and two filk tambour waiftcoats — for the purpofe, we imagine, of covering his pipes, and the fcab- bards of his fwords — and half a dozen cambric handkerchiefs for his own ufe. In confideration of this prefent, he has undertaken to write to his mafter, for permiflion to fend us away by land, which is the only fafe track at prefent. It is not without extreme compunction that we forego the eafe and pleafure of a voyage down the Nile, to encounter the dangers and hardlhips of tlie defart. But we forefee no end to our detention here, while we depend upon the river for a conveyance ; and readily acquiefced in the hakeem's propofal, who about one o'clock left us to finilh our repofe. Before we were up we had a vifit from the friendly Chriftians, who brought us a prefent of fine milk, and made us an hearty tender of their fervices during our flay here. There is an honeft fimpUcity in thefe men, that affords us infinite fatisfaclion -, and we fuppofe it was the apprehenfion of immediate danger to them- felves, which with-held their good offices, when we flood fo much more in need of them. Behold the juflice of divine Providence ! which often punifhes the iniquities of mankind, by their very accomplices in guilt. A retribution [ 241 J retribution the more dreadful, as the villain who breaks through every tie himfelf which links man to man, is not yet fo hardened as* to be proof to a breach of confidence in another. The blovy^ which is given by the public executioner, is weak, when com- pared to that which comes from the hand of a friend. There is intelligence juft arrived from Cofire, that the merchant Maho- met, who invited us to his houfe to plunder us, and who had re- turned in the laft caravan to that place, is fo defperately wounded, that his life is defpaired of. The quarrel arofe between him and fome of his confederates, touching the divifion of our fpoils. His brother Ally and his father were this day examined before the hakeem, on the fubjeft of their ill ufage of us. The refult we have not learnt ; but it cannot be very dangerous to them, asl wie find Ally has obtained leave to attend his dying brother. ■ In the afternoon the hakeem, and two merchants of the town in the confidence of the fliaik, came to our apartment to take a lift of the things we have loft. This they advife one of us to cany to the fhaik, and to make him a formal tender of the whole. This errand would be readily adopted by us, had we any thing fit to prefent to him, agreeably to the Eaftern cuftom. Thefe people looked into our trunks for this purpofe ; but finding us bare of valuables, they gave us hopes of being difpatched without paying this great vifit. TUESDAY, 19th August. Some further particulars relative to the misfortune of Mahb'- met, were communicated to us this morning. We learn, to our furprlze, that the young fhaik of Cofire, and the foldier ivhcr fto'le the major's fword, were the principals in the aflault. They went in company with Mahomet to Cofire, and were conftantly foHciting of him a proportion of the money which I i he [ 242 ]] he had obtained from US. This he had the imprudence to de- cline i and on their finding he was deaf to their argupients, they one day took an opportunity to feduce him from the caravan, and attacking him jointly, they cut him defperately with their fwords. There is no doubt but he defended himfelf manfully j but his ftrength and refolution could not avail him againft th,is. cowardly proceeding. The affafiins have efcaped to Cofire, but the.foldier's relations, who live here, have been feized by the qf-> der of the government. In cafe of Mahomet's death, however, we find a pecuniary mylct will preferve the murderers from the punifli ment due to their crimes. -.(This ftory affords a truer picture of the difpofitions and man- ners of the Arabs, than volumes could portray oji fuch a fubje^., We refled with hoiTor, on the connexion which fubfifted be- tween us and the delinquents in queflion ; and confider our ef- cape froni t;],iem, as altogether unexampled and miraculous. It isnow plain ^^hat, they could, meditate the plunder of our bag- gage; and yve might have fallen a facrifice in the defart, with much lefs danger to them, than the deceafed Mahomet, whofe family will exafl revenge. •^ ^We had another vifit from oar Turkifh acquaintanqe at theca - ravanfera. From him we have obtained a very extraordinary and alarming piece of intelligence. Since our arrival here, we had received confufed accounts of Ibrahim Beg's abfence from Cairo i but we could never get to the bottom of the ftory. It now ap- pears, that for this month paft, Egypt has been the feat of a bloody and;Obftinate civil w^r» Ifmaul Beg took on him to affume the government of Caii'o, by the connivance of the Porte ; but th^ late. Bey Ibrahim difputed the ufurpation, and appeared in arms to maintain his own title. The matter was contefte4 in ,a defperate battle without the walls of Cairo, and ended in the defeat^^ybr^h^nxJ^,^,pl^p^Q^i^d u^^^^ is now now in a'^pl'<3vi#icfe''HCt three days march from this place." In- ftead of pirates; infefting the river, we underftand, that thedangfet^ arifes from the'foldiers of Ibrahim Beg, who are raifirf^ coYitfi-' butions upon iti The Turk tells us, that the gallies which fell down hence fome days ago, were commanded by Muftapha Beg,' who is in the intereft of the depofed Ibrahim, and is gone to join him. But it is not poflible, that the fugitive chiefs call long withftand their fuccefsful opponent; whofe army is alr«Jady' ftrengthened by a large detachment of the Grand Signior s forces!' We' underftand tobji that the Shaik Ul Arab has acknowledged^ Ifmaul Beg, which accounts for the bad character that was giver^ us here of tlie Banute people, who are of the other party. It alfo ftrikes us forcibly, that the letters which we produced foP Ibrahim Beg, were onecaufe of the ill treatment we experienced from the vizier and his aflbciates. The fhaik was outof reach of our complaints, and Ibrahim Beg, our only friend befide, not in' a fituation to redi-efs them. We had a contrary idea when we' boafted of thefe letters J and muft acknowledge the uncertainty of human conjeflure, which errs in matters apparently the moft obvious, '"' This fudden revolution creates no furprize in a country un- fettled in its government, and divided by the jarring intereftsof a' fitimber of petty princes. But to us it is a matter of ferioiis re- flediion. We hear, indeed, that the European factories are uh- difturbed^at Cairo. But how far the influence of Mr. Baldwin will prevail with the new bey, or how we fliall reach the capital; throvigh the diforders of a country, agitated by oppofirig fac- tions, and laid wafte by the fword of rebellion, We are at a lofs to determine. Danger befets us on every fide. Public commo- tions are united to private perfecutions, to compleat our diftrefs •' and the moft alarming circumfta'nce of our affairs feems to bei' that we are ^it the mercy of two fimple though honeft MufTuImen/ 'orW I i 2 our C 244 ]/ our domeftics. They have hitherto preferved their fidelity to «s } but fuch is the frailty of human nature, that a long refi- dence here may have a bad effeft on their morals j expofed as they are to the artifices, and obliged as they are to mingle in the fociety of this fraudulent tribe. WEDNESDAY, a'cth AtJG-^sT. We had an early vifit from the hakeem this morning, who brought us a plate of raifins of the fun, which are produced in Lower Egypt. He came, feemingly full of the fcheme of one of us going to the fhaik, and propofed fending a boat up to-day on this fervice. We readily fell into this meafure, which, notwithftanding the obje61:ions that were made to it yefterday, I have long confidered as abfolutely neceiTary to our immediate releafe. Little can be done with the minifters of Eaftern princes, whofe hands are tied by the awe which they ftand in of their mafters, or whofe minds are fo habituated to the receipt of pre- fents, , that nothing Ihort of the whole fubftance of the peti-. tioner, can fatisfy their avarice. I made a tender of my fervices on this occafion ; not more from a principle of curiofity, than a defire of hallening our departure ; and was happy to find that tjiey were accepted of by my companions. In the afternoon we had a vifit from the quondcun hakeem, whofe advice we have conftantly folicited fince his difgrace. As' he can now have no felfifh intereft in our concerns, we are in- clined to place more confidence In him, than when we were at. his difcretion. He has bufinefs with the fhaik, and has kindly, promifed to accompany me on this embafly. He is well ac- quainted with our ftory, and if he is as much our friend as we take him to be, he may quicken the difpatch of our bufinefs, by a candid reprefentation of fa^s. He tells us, that the place of - 5 the ll 245 1 the fliaik's prefent refidence, called Ghofe, is but feven or eight hours journey by water, and that we fhall be abfent but two days from hence. The day pafled away without another meffage from the ha- keem, or any preparation for my journey. THURSDAY, 21ft August. There is no end to the prevarication of thefe people. The more eameft we are to go in perfon to the Ihaik, the lefs willing they are to admit of it ; and it is likely, after all, that we fhall be jiift where we were before the new hakeem arrived. He told Ibrahim this morning, that he was looking out for a boat to convey me to the fhaik, but it was uncertain when he lliould procure one. This excufe, from a man who can certainly com- mand every boat belonging to Ghinnah, is next to waving the vifit altogether. A funeral proceflion pafTed our houfe about noon, which wa^ veiy folemn and numerous. The corpfe was preceded by troops of .' women, who went vailed, and at certain intervals, uttered a choral cry, which was accompanied by expreffive a6lion. The coffin was borne by fome of the friends of the deceafed, and feveral little flags of diiferent colors were carried around it. A body of priefts clofed the proceflion, who recited aloud pafTages from the Alcoran, as they walked along. Muflulmen never negledt to fliew their fenfe of thefe fights ; and perhaps it would prove of ^ no detriment to Chriftians, to imbibe fome of their cuftoms oii thefe occafions. There was an Arabian merchant on a viiit to' us, when the funeral went by; and though in company with ftrangers, he was not afhamed to run to the window, and to join ' audibly in the devotions of the train. It is true, that the ob- fervance of thefe forms, makes not the Arabs better members of of foei^t/; "fiiatlf Heitli^t^checks their ■pi'6^)eKn't^ tcTli^aa^; 'iibr infills one benevolent idea into their breafls, towards the Votaries of a different perfuafion. But ftill it throws a decency into their difcouife, a fobriety into their manners, which is very per- fuafive. They poflefs, what may be called, the graces pf reli- gion, which would better adorn a good Chriftian, whofe temper is charitable, and whofe heart unknowing of deceit ! Jufl as we fate down to dinner, the hakeem fent for Ibrahim, and told him, that he expefted an anfwer from the fhaik to- day or to-morrow, which, perhaps, would fave me the trouble of waiting on him. This is what we dreaded ; but I fear, there is no rebellijig againft this man's will ; and we mull endeavor' fome way or other to fix him in our intereft. In the evening Mr. Hammond and I went to the caravanfera, to pay our com- pliments to our Turkifh acquaintance. He received us with his ufual civility. The chance of proceeding to Cairo by the Nile, feems to be much againft us, on account of the difturbances. We fhould, therefore, be very happy in the Turk's company in our journey by land, as his knowledge of the language and cuftoms of the country, would be a great defence to us againft the inconveniences of the load. His circumftances, however, will by no means afford the expence of five camels, which the coffee he has would require; and he is content to wait the ilfue of the difputes upon the river. We could not converfe on fo delicate a fubjecl in a public place, and have therefore defired the favor of his company in the morning, when we fhall pro- pofe to pay for his camel-hire, fliould he confent to make one of our party. This is to be kept a profound fecret. Though fifty dollars can be no objecl to us, when compared to the fer- vices we are likely to reap from his prefence, we muft, at all events, conceal a circumftance from the hakeem, which would fufficiently denote the ftrength of our refources. As [ 247 ] As we were going to bed, we had a vifit from the hakeem, who is very myfterious in his hours of communicating with us^ii To our great joy, he did not touch on the ufual firing of pre-,t fents ; but came, as he faid, to fatisfy our minds of his inten- tions to fend us under a fafe condudl to Cairo, when he received the fliaik's fan6lion for fuch aftep. j FRIDAY, 22d August. The hakeem fent for Ibrahim at day-break, and founded hinv> refpe£ling the valuables in our poffefTion, which might be worth his acceptance. We have ah'eady promifed to fend him a rem- nant of broad-cloath, and fome India goods, on our arrival at Cairo, by the return of the guard which he is to give us for our protefVion. But the native difpofition of thefe people renders them fufpicious of the profelTions of others. He, who does not hold himfelf bound by a promife, will not give another credit for the performance of one, which may be broken with impu^'' n,ity. . The hakeem, therefore, wants to abfolve us of this diftant obligation, provided we come down immediately with fomething of equal value. Generous man ! how he confults the interefts of perfons immediately under his prote6lit>n ! What hu- mane endeavours he daily exerts to render juflice to diftrefTed ftrangers, whom he came here profeifedly to confole and to re- lieve ! Two of the gang who were leagued againft us, have been twice brought before him. The vizier has been as often fum- moped to his tribunal. Examinations have been taken of the fafts ; but as the accufers and the culprits have never been brought together, nothing is likely to enfue from this extraordinary mode of trial, that can tend to the recovery of our property, or the punifhment of the offenders. Smaller crimes, however, are eorre<5led with feverity, when they are offered to Muffulmen ; 7 ^^ [ 248 ] an inftance of which occurred to-day before our door. A Chrif- tian and an Arabian were convifted before the hakeem, of' ftealing a fmall quantity of filver plate from a caravanfera. This' aft of dehnquency was punifhed by a fevere baftinado on the foles of the feet, which we underftand is the general method of' correction. This being the Mahometan fabbath, the hakeem went in great ftate to the mofque. But tlie furniture of his horfe was not of a piece with the difplay he meant to make. It was veiy antique, and conliderably the worfe for wear. Neither did his beaft do much credit to his keeping. The horfes in Upper Egypt feem to labour in common under this neglect. They are very fprightly animals, though of a fmall fize j and yet they cut no figure, where corn and fugar-canes are in great plenty ; which mull be attributed either to the unfkilfulnefs of the groom, or the penury of the owner. Indeed, proviiions of all kinds are fo cheap in this country, that the natives live well, for little or no- thing. We, who neceflarily pay for things at double rates, pro- vide for a family of ten or twelve people, at the moderate expence of one dollar and a half, or feven fhillings per diem. In this are included fruits of various kinds, of which we eat fo heartily, that they often conftitute a quarter part of the coft. Bread is at leaft thrice as cheap as in England, and fine mutton fells ufually at two pence per pound. But what avails the plenty that reigns here, when freedom has fled the land, and taken up her ahode in northern climes ? Infecure in the enjoyment of their property, which is the fport of every inteftine commotion, the natives rather drawl out a life of uncertain tenure, than exift with the fpirit of human creatures. A fervant belonging to our houfe brought me a piece of cop- per money, which I immediately knew to be Roman. On my giving him a filver dewanny for it, value a halfpenny, he produced [ 249 ] produced three others, all Roman coins, and found, as he tells me, among fome ruins here. To fpur his a6livity in procuring me more, I gave him two dewannies apiece for the reft, with which he feemed much delighted. I can only regret the critical .fii;ua- tion we are in, which prevents our beating up an ample field,, that undoubtedly abounds in every fpecies of antique rarities. S A T U R D A Y, 23d August. The quondam hakeem fent for Ibrahim early this morning, and propofed my accompanying him to the fhaik this evening. We,- very readily clofed with this fcheme, and fent our compliments to the hakeem, defuing his permiffion to go. This was a requeft which he could not flatly refufe ; but Ibrahim fays he appear- ed much chagrined that we would not truft to the letter he had fent, and to which he daily expe<5led a favorable anfwer. We are fo tired out with evafions, that any ftate feems preferable to that we are in -, and I have accordingly prepared myfclf to em- bark with the quondam hakeem and Ibrahim for the fliaik's court atfun-fet. While we were at breakfaft, we had a vilit from the Turk, who was accompanied by a friend that is likewife going to Cairo. He opened to us a defign which we much approved of, and doubt not to bring it to bear, in cafe of the fliaik's permiffion. Ke tells us there is a boat ready to fail for Cairo, on which we may embark , at my return, provided wearewiUing to give their paflage to fome camel-drivers, who are waiting for a conveyance to Cairo. ^ He is acquainted with a company of thefe people, who want to tranfr- port their coffee thither. They will fave us the expence of a guard, as evei-y man carries a matchlock, and, in defence of his property, v/ill form the heft protediion we can defire for our boafc. We efteem ourfelves very lucky in having found .an advifer, whofe K k intcreft [250] mtereft will prompt him to be fmcere/aM vmd(e jdlimey clepehdS' upon our fuccefs. I had a mefTage about eleven o'clock, to prepare for my voyage- immediately after dinner. This meal is ferved up at noon in this QOimtry, and we were in the height of it-, when Ibrahim was fent for by the hakeem. We did not like this fummons, and were the- lefs furprized, when we learnt that the hakeem diffuaded us from going to the fliaik. This he did, under the pretence of the trouble it would give me, and the little confequence a vifit would be of, unfurniflied as we were; with a prefent to fmooth the introduc- tion of our fuit. To this we replied, that nothing could be ac- counted a trouble which would effect our departure ; and in re- fpect to the want of a prefent, the gentleman who went, propofed to lay the paper, which contained our lofles here, at the fliaik's fbet; and to requeft him to recover the whole for hisownufe.- And that this could not be confidered as a trifling gift, which- amounted at leaft to 1,200 dollars. But he was deaf to thefe ar- guments ; and at length told us he would write again by his pre- deeeffor in office, urging an order for our fafe condu6t to Cairo. But that he could not admit of my vifiting the fliaik, and falling- into a thoufand difficulties, from an inability to fatisfy the de- mands of the fliaik's fecretaries and domeftics. There was fome" fhewof reafon in this remonftrance. We were well acquainted with"^ their craving difpofition"; and though we had money enough to have fcattered among them, our fituation is fo precarious, that we dare not pretend to it. The fa6l is, we are in his power, and- cannot a£l contrary to his inclination; We therefore fubmittedv with a good grace, and fent Ibrahim to the quondam hakeem, to remind him of our ilory, and to befpeak his influence with the: Ihaik in our behalf. Ibrahim attended him to the boat, and brought us back affurances of his utmoft fervices, which the poor man delivered with tears in his eyes. This is too uncommon an expreflion [ 251 ] exprefllon of fincerity among the Arabs, to make us fufpicious of its not coming from the heart *. We walked to the caravanfera in the evening, to acquaint the Turk of our difappointment, and to tender him camels for the conveyance of his coffee, fhould the fliaik think it fafer for us to go by land. He received the offer with gratitude ; but flill gives us hopes of hearing better news concerning the troubles on the river. SUNDAY, 24111 August. The Turk came to us this morning, with a face full of fome-- thing important. After the firft cup of coffee, he delivered him- felf of his burthen, which was at all events to difliiade us from going by land. He told us, that he propofed fetting off in a few days for Jirje, to wait till the river was clear, and prefled us much to accompany him. We were rather ftartled at this propofition, after what had paffed between us the night before; and, willing to know his fentiments fully on the matter, we repeated oui*' m- ■ tention to proceed by land, in cafe the pafTage by the Nile fliould remain ftill perilous. Now it was that we learnt the defperate fituation we were reduced to. The dangers which encompafled us appealed in their proper colors, and required not the touches of art to give them a formidable appearance. Armies of contending parties obflrucSled our progrefs by water ; and a band of robbers threatened to purfue our footfteps by land. In fliort, we difcover- ed that this Turk was tender of the charafters of MufTulmen, until he began to fufpefl we fliould fuffer by their treachery. He therefore informed us in confidence, that we fhould be mad- * Thus were all my hopes of viewing the antiquities of Luxor and Thebes, dafh- ed in a moment, by the caprice of a flave, who is become our mafter, and detains me from accompanying this Arab to the fhaik, who is in that neighborhood. K k 3 iii'jn [ 252 ] men to trufl ourfclves over the defarts ofThebals, when our de- parture could not be kept a fecret. That, allowing the hakeem to be fincere, and that he difpatched us agreeably to the -ftiaik's or- der, there would not be wanting rogues in this town, who, coit^i fident of our carrying away money and jewels with us, would fe- cretly colle6l thirty or forty light camels, and although we had got two days ftart of them, might eafily overtake, plunder, and murder our whole body. To illuftrate this obfervation, he re« lated to us a ftory of a Turkifh gentleman of his acquaintance, who was treated in this manner about two years ago, in a journey from Cofire to Ghinnah. A report univerfally prevailed, as in our cafe, tliat he was pofTefled of great wealth, and he was fol- lowed by a felecl: band into the defart, and furprized while he was taking fome refrelhment beneath a thorn-tree. His party was too weak to refifl the robbers ; and the Turk was (hot through the head at the firft onfet. This anecdote naturally led him to refled on our late fituation, which had been fo fimilar to the un- fortunate traveller's, and to congratulate us on the ifTue, which had been fo different. He was afcertained that tlie fame fate had been intended us, from which we had efcaped by a fignal interventioi> of Pro%'idence. On the other hand, our friend pointed out the probability of our flimming the dangers of the river, by the tak- ing refuge in any town we might be near, on an alarm of enemies ; not to add the chance of fleering clear of them by night, and our ability, in a flout boat, to make a manful refiflance againfl an hoflile attack. We were quickly convinced of the propriety of this advice; and it is refolved that we wait for the fliaik's anfwer refpcfting our departure. Should it fo happen that he dire6l our being fent by land, we are to inform the hakeem that we arc con- tent to run all rifks by water, rather than encounter the fatigues of another camel -journey : And, moreover, that our purfes will rtot afford the expence of it. In the mean time^ the Turk is to fe- cure [ 253 ] ciure a boat, and to hold it in readinefs for xis. This is a plan which has been reared on the moft plaufible foundation, but, like the reft of our airy fchemcs, may be demolifhed by the changes of the mojrow. I know not whether I fhould lament or rejoice at my not be- ing poffelTed of the true fpirit of virtu, which, overlooking all cbftacles and perils, leads the poffeffor to hazard every thing for the acquifition of an antique medal or feal. Were I one of the number whom Pope fays, *' Sighs for an Otho, and negle£ls his bride," I might indeed add to the lift of the curiofitics which I have picked up, but at the fame time endanger our very liberties, by a fnew of enquiry into the fmalieft matters. To procure thefe rcliques, money muft be produced, the mere rumour of which might awaken the avarice of the people, at whofe difpofal we lie. Thefe reflections were fuggefted by a prefent, which I re- ceived this evening from one of the Chriftians, of feals taken up both here and at antient Thebes. The impreffions, it muft be confelt, difcover no great elegance in the engraving. But their antiquity is not to be doubLcd, from the remotenefs of the quar- ter iia which they were found. MONDAY, 25th August. News is at length arrived of the death of the merchant Maho- met at Cofire. 1 he perfons who communicated it to us, had the confidence to warn us of going abroad immediately, left the relations of the deceafcd fhould revenge themfelves upon us, whoXe money they confider to have been the caufe of his murder. A pretty inference, truly ! worthy of the fubtle intelledls of this di- abohcal tribe! But whether the danger exifts or not, we intend to make a plea of it to the.hakeem, to haften our departure, as we do of the murdei" itfcif,. tcexcufe our going by land. Indeejdj, when [ 254 ] when we are afcertained of the villainy of the Arabs, who are law- lefs enough to take away a Muflulmari's life in the middle of a cara- van, what fecurity can be givento Chriftians, for their fafety with a fmall body ? Our Turk paid us a morning vifit amid thefe deter- minations, and again confirmed us in them. He propofes our getting away to Jiije as foon as poffible, and remaining there, until an opportunity offers to convey ourfelves to Cairo. He defcribes Jirje to be a large and well-regulated city ; where we may keep ourfelves private in a caravanfera, and be two days nearer the capital, to obtain intelligence. We are too tired of the oppreffion and deceit of the people of Ghinnah, not to wifh earneftly for a change of the fcene; which, at any rate, cannot prove lefs agreeable and eligible to us. The fall of villainy occafions as great lamentations in this town, as would the demife of integrity in an honeft land. The ti"agedy which was lately a6led near Cofire, gave birth to a mourn- ful procefllon of females, which pafled through the different fti-eets of Ghinnah this morning, and uttered difmal cries for the death of Mahomet. In the center was a female of bis family, who carried a naked fword in her hand, to intimate the weapon by which the dcceafed fell. At fundry places the proceflion flop- ped, and danced around the fvv^ord, to the mufic of timbrels and tabors. They paufed a long time before our houfe, and fome of the women made threatening figns to one of our fervants j which agree with the caution we received to keep within doors. It would be dangerous enough to face this frantic company ; whofe conftant clamor and extravagant geflures give them all the ap- pearance of the female Bacchanals of Thrace, recorded of old. As our Turk came up flairs this evening, he was flopped by fome of the hakeem's fervants, and we were obliged to fend Ibrahim to obtain him admittance. The little man was much nettled at this ufage, nor could we account for it. The buflle below •' t 255 } "^r r-'^-t- below flairs had occafioned an enquiry into the caufe, and Ibra- him was-fumraoned by the great man, to explain it. The Turk infifted upon accompanying him, and returned to us very well fatisfied. He told the hakeem that he was an acquaintance of long Handing -, was known to our conful at Cairo, and purpofed to attend us to that city. We are very well pleafed that this matter is broken to the hakeem ; who politely apologized for the affront, which had been offered to a friend of ours, through, the ignorance of his fervants. tv-- The meannefs of this Abaflee is fhocking to a liberal mind, which muft be reduced indeed to accept of the trifles which he greedily folicits. He fufpe6ls us to be bare of money, and is willing to eafe us of our remaining cloaths. He even takes ap- parel which can be turned to no ufe; and the very Iheets from our beds have not efcaped his rapacious hands. Daily are the inroads which he makes into our baggage ; and we are content to have it reduced to a fniali compafs. Among all the bad qua- lities this fellow poflelTes, pride cannot, be included in the. number. . TUESDAY, 26th August. t,-. r. - jThe times of Yambo feem to be once more revived, and our patience fated to be put to the feverelt proof. Three days are elapfed fince the laft letter went to the fhaik, and no anfwer is yet arrived. It is a myftery to all, that no notice has been taken of the various accounts, which have been tranfmitted to the fhaik, relative to us. He doubtlefs knows of our detention j but we greatly apprehend, that he is ftill a ftranger to the principal circumftances of our llory. Were it not for the confidence we repofe in the former hakeem, we fhould not expe6l any orders in our favor, until the fhaik's return, which every one fays is near 3 at f ^56 1 at hand, , Tliis morn'mg we faw his nephew pafs towards the ri- ve;;, where lie erj^t^rks i^i a boat to meet the ihaik. Four oi- j&Vc hours of a fair wind, will carry him to the place to which his uncle has lately moved. We had a long vifit from the hakeem tlais forenoon. He tells us that advices came yeilerday from Cairo, which afford hopes that a flrong force will foon be fent up the river, to clear it of Ibrahim Beg's parties. A large detachment of Ifmaul Beg's ar- my has fecured an important poft about fifty miles below Jirj t; fo that the communication is open from thence to Cairo j and INluftapha Beg's gallies aj-e thereby detained at Jirje. A veiry fliort intei^val may occafion a revolution in matters; and the re- bels who obliru6t our progrefs, may be driven back to the upper parts of the Nile. We alfo find that Ifmaul Beg, by thefe ad- vices, has in veiled tlie Shaik Ul Arab with the fovereignty of four more provinces of Upper Egypt. A refined ftroke of policy in the Bey, to confirm him in the interefl of the government; and to oblige him to defend thefe very provinces againft tlie fugitive chiefs, who might acquire a fupply of men and money from the conqueft of them. In the courfe of our converfation with the hakeem, we difco- vered his predileftion to our going by land. On our pointing out the obflacles which might deter us from fuch an undertaking, he endeavoured to obviate them, by the flrongeft. affurances of his care and protection. He went fo far as to declare, that on our fitting out for Cairo, he would feize upon Ally and the fellows who had robbed us, and detain them in cuftody until our lafety was known. That he would alfo afiix chops or feals, upon the wai*ehoufe- doors of the camel-drivers, until they returned witlithc intelligence of our arrival at Cairo. Thefe promifes are encou-^ raging enough, and might induce us to venture at laft upon ca- mels, if an example were made of the rogues who plundered us, 2 to I ^57 ] to deter others from attempting the like. The camel-drivers who went with the company of Tuiks to Cairo, are expesSted back in four or five days. They will, perhaps, bring us an anfwer from Mr. Baldwin, and we have the good fortune to be furniflied, by his means, with a recommendation to the (haik from Ifmaul Beg. But there is little chance of our being obliged to determine on this point, during the abfence of the fhaik. The government is likely to reap no little advantage from our coming here. The murder of Mahomet has given it a pretence, to fecure the property of the camel-drivers belonging to that caravan. We faw a fecretary pals by with a party of foldiers this afternoon, and were told, that he had been affixing chops to the different warehoufes of their cara- vanfera, v/hich contained coffee to a confiderable amount. This would partly go towards fatisfying the family of the deceafed, but the mod confiderable portion be confifcated to government. I went up to the top of our houfe in the evening, to obferve the progrefs of the inundations of the Nile. The freflies now are at the grcatefl height ; and there appeared a prodigious alteration in the Icene fuice my laft view of it. The waters are fpread to the very extremities of the town. The ftream is greatly agitated and difcolored, and runs down with the force of an headlong torrent. WEDNESDAY, 27th August. I was awakened before day-break by the fame troop of women, which palled our houfe the other day in honor to the memory of Mahomet. Their difmal cries fuited well with the lonely hour of the night : and I underftand tliat this relic of the Grecian cuftom lafts for the fpace of feven days ; during which interval the female relations of the deceafed make a tour through the town, morning L 1 and f 258 ] . Mvi niglit, beating then* bi-eafls, tlircwing aThes on tlieir heads, tend dii-pkying every artificial token of fonow. • The general rumor of the town is, that the fhaik will be here to-morrow. Soine of his domeftics are anived, which in a man- I'Kr confin«3 it. It is time for us to be relieved from the reftraint we are under, as eveiy hour teems with the danger of difcoveries. From the frequent infpeclion of our baggage, -wt flill hold it ex- pedient to carry our money and valuables about us. Befides the irkfomenefs of fuch a charge, accidental occurrences have often brought us to the brink of betraying it : and more than once, to i«y gl'-eat confu'fiou, has the hakeem himfetf fate down fo clofe to tlie place where my watch has been concealed, that he muft infal- libly have heard it going, had we not ftrained all our invention to engage his attention. Cod grant that the fhaik was once come among us 1 when the worft which can happen will be, that we fliall know the utmoft malice of our fate. .^ We took a walk this evening along the banks of the Nile, to fee the revolution of things in that quarter. The deluge extends itfelf daily on evei7 fide ; and we remarked many places where the river has formerly made inroads into the town itfelf. A face of bufinefs diffufes itfelf around the country. The hufbandmen have prepared their grounds for the reception of the manure, which the floods will leave upon them. Nature affifls them in a point, the mofl laborious and expenfive to the farmer in other * countries; and to this account, the cheapnefs of grain may be imputed in Upper Egypt, more than to the quantity which the land produces, which is only cultivated on the banks of the Nile. When the waters retii'e, the feed is immediately fown, and a ^ The author muft except the kingdom of Bengal, which is watered by that • BcJble river the Ganges j whofe operations and eff«6ts bear an intimate refemblance ;_te th«fe of the Nile. crop «[ 259 } crop is reaped within the fhort fpace of four montlis. The moft aftonifliing inftance of the quicknefs of vegetation that the world can afford. As we had encountered fome intelligent fellows on the road, I enquired into fome of the natural curiofitics, v/hich have fo long diftinguilhed this region. I learn that the ofVrich ij too common, to be much regarded by the natives. Tliat the crocodile is a mofl formidable tenant of the Nile, and held bi great dread by the fifherraen ; one of whom told us, that he was prefent at the death of a crocodile a (hart time ago, m whofe belly were found the gold rings and ornaments of a dancing-girl, who was devoured by the monfter, as fiie was bath- ing in the river. The hippopotamus, or river-horfe, is likewife yet, though rarely, met witli, between this place and Jirje. I have an exa6l refemblance of him in an antique feal which came from the ruins of Thebes ; but I muft add, that he is often found to be twelve feet and upwards in length. His ikin is fo hard as to refill a mulket-ball ; and he is fo cunning, as feldom or never to be feen afhore, by day-light. Among the various reafons that induce my preferring to travel by water, the defuse of beholding this rare production of nature, is not the leaft cogent : and J cannot but anticipate the gratifications which are in (lore for us, whenever I meditate on a voyage down the Nile, diilurbcd as it is by the commotions of war. THURSDAY, 28th August. The morning was ulliei'ed in by the arrival of a great maal:, who came immediately to our houfe, accompanied by the li'k*- keem, who went to the river-fide to receive him. He is a Turk, and was lately governor of Ghofe, a town fome hours diflant up the Nile, from whence he was removed on the revolution at Cairo. He is going by land to that city, and on hearing of our L 1 2 fituation. [ 26o } fituation, very politely fent a meflage to requefl the favor of our company. A better opportunity could not have offered itfelf for our proceeding by this route; and we mufl undoubtedly avail ourfelves of it, if no good intelhgence reach us touching the paffage by water, before the fhaik's return, which this Turk af- fui'es us will be to-morrow evening, or the next morning at fur- theft. It will be with the utmoft regret, that we forego the verdant profpefls, the romantic fcenes, which the banks of the Nile abound with, to traverfe ftony vallies and a dreary wafte. We cannot with any degree of patience, compare the eafe and convenience of a boat, to the labor, fatigue, and heat we fhall experience, in journeying upon camels. But fo hearty is our averfion to the people we are among, fo w^earied out are we with the delays we have met with, that we are ready to encounter the horrors of the defart, provided we encounter them under a fafe conduct, rather than remain here a week longer, to wait the iffue of the difputes upon the river. — But our refolutions are the fport of fortune, and catch their hue from the afpe61: of the day. It is with fome concern, that we fhall feparate ourfelves from our little Turkifh acquaintance, whofe good-humour and atten- tion have greatly preferred him in our efteem. But it would be folly to reject the protection of this great man, who travels with a ftrong guard, for the uncertain and dangerous profpect of get- ting down by water. We were warmly folicited by the hakeem to-day, for various articles, which he had overlooked before. This is a ftrong inti- mation that his mafter is at hand, to deliver us at leaft from his importunities. F R I D AY, [ 26i ] FRIDAY, 29th August. A woman came to our door to-day, who ufed to alk charity of us at Cofire. She is juft arrived with the caravan, and brings fome fliocking accounts touching the death of Mahomet. It ap- pears, that he was left in the defart by the villains vvho aflaulted him, and remained there three days without any affiftance what- ever, when he was accidentally taken up by a party of a few camels, and carried to Cofue. There he lingered three days more, ere death relieved him from the pains he endured. The tortures- which were referved for this poor wretch, from the rankling of his many wounds, are really affedliing to humanity ; but the horrors which mull have haunted his confcience in this dread- ful interval, are too formidable to conceive. The deceit which he had pradlifed towards ftrangers, the breach of hofpitality be- neath his own roof, and the perjuries that he had committed in iht prefence of a juft God, muft in thofe moments have recur- red with double force to his imagination, and ftruck him with a full conviftion of his guilt. Even the Arabs themfelves, who are feldom reftrained from evil from the contemplation of a fu- ture ftate, acknowledge the interpofition of the divine hand in the fate of this man. Unhappy vidlini of prejudice and paffion ! may thy fins have been expiated by the anguilh of thy exit ! And may the eternal pardon which is promifed to repentance, meet thee as fully, as what I beftow upon thy offence I Our hopes of going in company with the Turkifh officer, are cut off as foon as formed. He purpofes fetting out this night, and we are immoveably fixed here, until the prefence of the fhaik breaks the fpell. We cannot but fecretly reproach the hakeem for this difappointment. Had he permitted of my em- bafly to the Ihaik, there is little doubt but we fliould have ob- tained I 2-62 ] tained permiffioH to nccompany this Turk to Cairo. But we have not been wanting to effe6l the utmoft. We have written a fourth letter to Mr. Baldwin, flating our uncomfortable fitua- tiotn ; which we have committed to the care of one of the Turk's (Jomcftics, through the means of Ibraliim. The Turk and his party departed at midnight, which we ob- fej'ved from our windows, that almoU face his lodgings. He had g;iven out that he ihould not go until the morning. Thefe pre- cautions were taken by the former travellers who went by land i to deceive., we prefume, the thieves who lurk in this neigh- borhood. SATURDAY, 30th August. We had fcar<:ely breakfafled this morning, when advice came Qf the long-expedled approach of the Shaik Ul Arab. We im- mediately went to the top of our houfe, to fee the ceremony of his landing. We had hitherto rellrained our joy at an event, which was too defirable to be credited, without the evidence of our fenfes. The reader may therefore judge of our emotions, wjien we beheld a large fleet of boats, falling down with the ftream. We found the fliaik to be in the headraoft, from the pendant and enfign which were difplayed on board j and he fpon entei'ed the creek, which is a fhelter for boats from the violence of the frefl:ies, both fides of which wei^e lined witb people to receive him. But l^ the flrength of the current his boat was forced upon a bank, mid-way in the creek, and not without gueat difficulty, difengaged. The wateimen on the Nile dp not feem tq underftand their bufinefs, like their fraternity on the Thames ; or they would not have left their monarch fo long in perplexity. Several ropes gave way in drawing the boat from tlie bank ; and two hours elapfed before fhe was brought to the iajiding-place, though ^ifliiled by fome hundreds of people. It i ^^3 1 It was pleafant enough to behold the terraces crowned with- women, on this occafion. Their keepers were probably abroad, to pay their compliments to the fhaik, while the birds flew to the tops of their cages, to tafte of the momentary fvveets of li- berty. I never £aw fo numerous a fhew of females, fome of whom, in our neighborhood, proclaimed themfelves proficients in the arts of coquetry, by withdrawing their vails to attra6t our notice, and dropping them again, when our eyes were fixed upon tlieir faces. Many were the falutations we received from ihefe good-natured creatures ; whofe freedom of behavior to us,. I attribute to the rigid confinement in which they are kepr. Re- ftraint is the bane of modefty in female bofoms j sa\d 1 will ven- ture to fay, that there are moi-e wom.en of loofe inclinations in theTurkifh dominions, than in all Europe befide. So jull is the advice of our countryman Prior, in regard to our treatmejit of a fair companion : " Be to her faults a little blind. Be to her virtues very kind -, Let all her ways be unconfin'd. And -clap your padlock on her mind !" At four o'clock we were fummoned to the prefence of the fhaik, whom we found alone in a lower apartment of his palace. We were much elevated by his arrival, and perhaps, could not have appeared to better advantage before our protestor ; whofe cordial reception of us befpeaks him to be fuch, in the trueft fenlb of the word. He feated us on the fame carpet with himfelf, anot after a few compliments, which were interpreted to us by Ibra- him, he direfted coffee and fruit to be placed before us. Here for the firft time we faw grapes, which were very fine, and a pe- culiar date, which furpafles every thing of the kind I ever met 9 with. [ 264 ] with. While we were partaking of this rcpafr, I had leifure to take a full view of the fliaik, and cannot refift the inclination of introducing a cliarafter to the reader, of which I flatter myfelf he will have reafon to be enamored hereafter. Ifman Abu Ally, the great fnaik of the Arabs — for fuch we would render the Shaik Ul Arab — is a fhort fat man, of about five feet two inches high, and turned, as we learn, of feventy- five. His eyes are grey, and his complexion very fair ; but what at once gives him a fmgular and more youthful look, his beard, which is very bufliy, is colored of a bright yellow. This exterior may not feem the moft promiftng, and might create dif- tafte, if the benevolence that beams from his countenance, were not foremoft to fecure the heart of the beholder. Neither can the (hrillnefs of his voice, which is harjQi and difTonant, dcflroy the beauty of the fentiments, which it is infufficiently made ufe of to convey ; as the elegance of the words may fometimes atone for the demerits of a tune. He is ftill aClive, for a man of his fize and age ; and his fpirits are fo good, that were it not for the ravage which time has made among his teeth, he might pafs for a younger man by twenty years at leafl:. Except the viziers of Yambo and Ghinnah, whom we had found to be villains by fad experience, we had hitherto dealt with the drofs of the na- tion. It was referved for this moment, for us to meet with the polite gentleman and the honeft man, comprized in the perfon where they ought to be found, in the reprefentative of his people. Happy the fubjedl of a virtuous land, who at once pof- fefles and imitates fo rare an example ! But how funk in the abyfs of infamy are the race, who wholly deviate from the flan- dard of reftitude j and though daily reproached by the life of their monarch, are not to be reclaimed by the tone of authority, or the elocution of adlive virtue ! We had quickly caufe to find, that we had not given the fhaik 5 too [ 265 ] too much credit for his integrity. His impatience to acquit him- fflf 4ri our opinion, of any connivance at the condu6t of his fervants, could fcarcely be reftrained by the forms of civihty, which precluded bufinefs during our repaft. But no fooner was it ended, than he iliifted the converfation, and came diredlly to the point which we were fo much concerned in. He lamented the treatment which we had undergone, and which could only have happened in his abfence ; and lie vehemently reprobated the behavior of his officers, which he v/as determined to purtiih in the moft exemplary manner. After a few leading queilions, which tended to confirm the report that had been made to him touching our (lory, he profefied, that his return to Ghinnah had been haHened on our account. That he had come pur- pofely to do us flrifl juftice on our perfecutors, and to difpatch us under a fafe condutl to Cairo. As a proof of his fmcerity, he ordered Ally, the brother of the deceafed Mahomet, to be brought before him. He had been previoufly taken into cuftody, and was waiting without, to be examined. With this fellow, came Sauker, one of the rogues who had affiiled to plunder us, and who of his own accord, produced the things which had fallen to his fliare, in the divifion of the fpoils. He laid them at the fliaik's feet ; and with the greateft effrontery declared, that he had taken them, only to fecure them from the thieves of the houfe : and that his truth might be deduced from his care of our property. Though his offence was palpable, this ftep was fufiicient to flcreen him from puniihment in a coun- try, where retribution is all that is required by the profecutor, and where juflice is generally to be appeafed by pecuniary fines. But the ill-advifed Ally did not efcape in this manner. He boldly denied having robbed us of money or vahiables, and Wfis loudly exclaiming at the injuftice of the accufation, when the fliaik raifed his voice, and a dozen AbyfTmian flaves fuddenly M m feized feized on the culprit, and hunied him out of the room. We were in pain for the fellow, and were meditating on the confe- quences of his arreft, when he was brought into our prefence again, bound hand and foot, with a chain about his neck, by which he was held. He was on the point of receiving the baf- :i:inado on his knees, when he confeffed the charge, and promifed to return all that he had taken from vs. The fliaik was in^- ciincd to inflid the punilhment on him ; -but by the interpofi- tion of thole about him, in which we joined, he remitted it for -the prefent j and directed Ally to be led home, that he might produce the goods. Our triumph was complete. One of our antient enemies had atoned for his crime, in a manner that out- went the mod fanguine idea of revenge. The other was humbled at our feet. He furvived indeed : but it w^as only to abafe him- lelf before us, and to depend upon our moderation for his fecurity ! In about half an hour Ally returned, and produced a few of the leaft valuable articles. He earneltly requefted until the morn- ing to deliver up the rell, and to repay us the money that he had cheated us out of. This was granted him at our defire, and the prifoner committed to his ov^^n houfe, under the cuftody of a llrong guard. Several of the fliaik's courtiers had come in during this exami- nation, among whom were his nephew and the quondam hakeem. We found the latter was in difgrace, and endeavored to make his peace, by expreffing to his mailer, the many obhgations we lay under to his.cace pf our perlbns. The good old man only fliook his head in reply, and waved the fubjed, by defiring us to attend again at kvcn o'clock the ;iext morning, when he had fummoned a full court of jullice to punilh our aggreffors. He difmilTed us, with frelh all'urances of his protedion i and, as an earneft of what lo we [ 267 ] we might expe6l, he directed our fervants to cany home the reco- vered goods in triumph before us. , SUNDAY, 31ft August. We breakfufted betimes, and at feven o'clock went to the fhaik's houfe. The court were ah'eady affembled in an open fpot before the houfe, which was fhaded by an high wall from the morning fun. Here we found the fliaik encompaOed by his great men, with a number of foldiers and attendants at fome diftance in their front. Carpets were fpread in the intermediate fpace for our re- ception. Here we feated ourfelves, after making our obeifance to the fhaik, and waited in filcnce the iffue of the trial. Next to the fhaik's right hand was placed his nephew, and, as we xmderfland, his declared fucceflbr in the government. He is a comely and good-humored looking man, feemingly between thirty and forty years of age ; and by his behavior, appeared to be lefs our enerny than any other of his uncle's counfellors. So unhappy is this up- right and humane prince in the lot of his fervants. Juft before we came in, the culprit Ally had undergone a fevere baftinado, on again proving refra6lory ; and the hakeem was fent to fearch his houfe for the ftolen goods. This occalloned a paufe iri the proceedings, which were interrupted by the fudden appear- ance of the vizier, who, to our great aftonifliment, took a feat which was vacant next to the fliaik's nephew. This confidence was unexpecled, and filled us with unfavorable prognoftics of the event of our fuit. But our doubts were of fliort continuance. He had entered unregarded by his malrer, and was talking with great eafe to thofc about him, when the fliaik turned about, and in a fo- lemn tone, alkcd him for the fhauls and things, which he had re- ceived from the Englifh gentlemen. The whole frame of this gay courtier was evidently difcompofed by this queftion. He hadpro- • ' ■ .ic i£ tbiif. M m 2 bably [ 268 ] bably laid his account with, our fupprefling the part he had taken againft us, after the high hand with which he had once flopped the accufation of Abdul Ruflar, and was unprepared with an evafion. His countenance inftantly was difrobed of its pleafantry ; his limbs trembled, and his tongue faltered in framing a reply, the fubftance of which was, that he was a ftranger to the matter with which he was charged. We were afhamed of the meannefs of a man of his rank, but the wrath of the fhaik was wound up to •the higheft pitch at the hearing of this falfehood. He was confirmed of the guilt from the fymptoms which the offender difplayed ; and without calling any frefli evidence to corroborate it, he proceeded to decide. But he could hardly find utterance for his orders, which were to arrefl: and flog the vizier immediately. A number of flaves flarted from the croud, to execute the pleafure of their lord. The aftonifhed minifter could not beheve his ears, and would fain have perfuaded himfelf that the affair was a jeft. He was prefently convinced of his miftake. The officers of juftice idd violent hands upon his perfon, tumbled him from his proud feat, and in a rude manner hurried him away, in fpite of his out- cries and fruitlefs refiftance. This behavior ferved only to exaf- perate the fhaik. His eyes flafhed with the honeft indignation which lighted his bofom -, his fl:r£ngth could fcarcely fupport the agitations of his mind ; and after fome effort, he raifed himfelf from his carpet, and repeated his commands in a voice, that flruck terror into the breafls of all prefent. He was immediately fur- rounded by a croud of his courtiers, who kiffed his hands, em- braced his knees, and interceded with him for the pardon of the vizier. Thefe nobles took no Ihare in the paffions of their monarch, and were only attentive to exculpate one of their body, though at the expence of honor and juftice. I muflown that I was concerned at the fearful fituation of a man, who had never been guilty of any aftual violence towards us, and 5 whofe [ ^(>9 3 whofe greateft trefpafs was the receipt of prefents, on his afTu- raiices ofproteftion, when he permitted of our being plundered by our inhofpitable hofl and his adherents. Thefe, however, were crimes of the deepeft dye, in the eyes of the good old fhaik. When we dire6ted Ibrahim to plead for the inoffenfive condu6l of the vi- zier towards us, he would not hear of any apology for a villain, who had fo little the honor of his country at heart, as to injure its charadler by winking at the maltreatment of ftrangers. He could the lefs overlook it in a fervant of his own, and added, that it was at our inftance only, he would remit the punifhment due to his enormity. The mortification neverthelefs was referved for the vizier, that he fiiould be brought before us, difarraved of his gay apparel, his hands bound behind him, and a chain faflened about his neck. In this miferable plight, he was told of the obligation he was under to our generous application ; and led home by a guard, to produce his ill-gotten acquifition, as his only hope of fafety. Vv'e obferved a general murmur among the grandees, at tlie compliment which was paid us on this occafion. The dif- grace of one of their body excited no friendly fentiments towards us ; and not a few menacing looks were thrown upon us from the circle. On the other hand, the fliaik harangued them in a fen- fible and pathetic fpeech, on the honor of their nation. He caft the moH juft and fevere reproaches on tlie characVer of the abfent minifter, and warned them in future, againft fuch inhuman practices towards Chriftians and ftrangers. He then turned to- us with the kindeft afpecl, and re-afl'ured us of his prote6lion. He thanked us for the confidence which we had repofed in him, in venturing through a country, fo remote and unknown ; and la- mented anew, that his abfence from his capital had given room for our repenting the experiment. He fuppofed that no fociety, however enlightened, was free from the clafs of reptiles by which .we had fufFered ; and the law provided a juft retaliation for the offence. [ 2/0 ] offence. But he attributed tlie commiffion of the offence to the negledl of the hakeem of Ghinnah, who had flumbered Uke an unwary centinel on his duty. For this he had been difcharged from his office, and a Have of his own been fent to take care of us until his arrival. All that was now wanting to complete our fa- tisfa6lion, was the recovery of our lofles, which he would fee ef- fected ; and our journey to Cairo, which he fwore fhould be ac- coniplilhed witliout an injury being offered to an hair of oiu: lieadS, , .i.'^i.. t'i^^'.', iiJi'^'U iijLiVl-} ^'jhWiiitiV^ f^ )ii-y\j^Ki'j Q", nOlj;jtj As virtue as well as vice is magnified by comparifort, it will ndt appear extraordinary, that our encreafing regard for this great man began to border upon enthufiafm. Reader ! if thou art of the yielding kind, if thy mould is fufceptible of tender inipret- fions — 'fay, when furrounded by a croud of homely females, did thy heart never beat high at the approach of tranfcendant beau- ty ? So, from the cloud of mifcreants that encompafl'ed his throne, fhot forth the glories of the Egyptian king ! So bright, fo peer- ilefs did he rife from the contraft. So unworthily flationed, and yet fo worthy of the ftation in which his birth had placed him ! Nurfed in the lap of ignorance and barbarifm, like another Peter, he had triumphed over nature. Nor opinion could warp, nor habit could bind him. He nobly fpurned the prejudices of education, and, without any guide, fkve the impulfe of innate goodnefs, he foared to the fuperior heights of virtue. She feem- ed the miftrefs of his inclinations, rather than of his election or intereft; and, b.efide him, the world may afford but few fubje6ts of fuch an influence. It is true, that his endeavors were not -crowned with the fuccefs that diftinguifhed thofe of Peter the Great. But Peter attended more to the aggrandizement than the morals oF his people ; and, with all the great qualities of the hero, funk infinitely below the Egyptian, in the feeUngs of the man. The latter was fit to have ruled over an enlightened empire. While { c^s j While the former, "^after all his vi6lorIes, was, inrnany refpefVs, an example unworthy of imitation ! .- iuint-j '(_':£./. nu Our ignorance of the Arabian language obliged uj^'to ftave^Tci- courfe to our interpreter, for an acknowledgment of the fe fa- vors. But at the fame time, it faved us the confafion of appear- ing at a lofs for a fuitable reply. We flieltered ourfelves under this fortunate circumftiance, which, in a great meafure, left our patron to conceive a gratitude, which words would have but poor- ly exprelTed. diHgiin iiaw 2B amiiv r ^ A meilenger now arrived with two fliauls and my crecfe, from the vizier. The other flaaul, he faid, he had parted with ; and the piftols he had given to Ally. Once more, therefore, was the wretched Ally produced before the court ; and on denying the re- ceipt of them, the baftinado was again inflifted on him *. Be- fides the articles which had been reftored, there were ftill a fdver urn, a pair of gold knee-buckles, and a quantity of valuable linen to be accounted for. Not to fpeak of the money which they had obtained from us, under various pretences. But tiiefe were faid to have fallen to Mahomet's fhare in thedivifion; and his robbery and death were made a plea of by the family, to fatisfy us for our lofs. The fliaik would not hear of this apology, which he term- ed falfe and evafive. And fooner than we fhould fuft'er by that family, he declared, that he v/ould firfl: order their fabftance to be difpofed of, and if that would not repay us for our loiTes, Ally and the reft of them fhould hp fold as flaves, to make up the fum^J^'lt was now time for us to interfere. The matter was ex- ceeding the bounds to which we meant to pufii it ; and policy, as ♦ This is a very novel as well as fearful punifhment. The pri Toner is placed up- right on the ground, with his hands and feet bound together, while the executioner ftands before him, and, with a fliort ftick, ftrikcs him with a fmart motion on the outfideot his knees. Tlie pain which arifes from thefe ftrokes, is exquifitelv fe- yere, and what no conftitution could fupport for any continuance. well [ 272 ] well as humanity, prompted us to drop it. Our principal aim was to get from Ghinnah, under a proper prote6lion. Oar perfe- cutors had been chaftifed, and it was preferable for us to put up with fome inconvenience, rather than riin the rifle of beirrg de- tained here, in the purfuit of full redrefs. On this account we liftened to the mediation of the hakeem, and fome of the cour- tiers, who befeeched us to withdraw our claim to all but eighty dollars of the remaining debt, which Ally might raife from the camels he poirefled. Our acquiefcence in this propofal gained us credit with all prefent, and drew a particular compliment from the worthy fhaik -, who protefted, that he could not but admire our generofitv, though it was exercifed at the expence of their national character. The reader, perhaps', Way agree with 'us, that we ought not to have fubfcribed to this infmuation, as fuch a man as was then before us, was enough to redeem his nation from obloquy. '*'The court now broke up, and we were difmilTed, not a little |33F6afed with this mode of adminiftering juftice. The punifliment inflifled upon robbers in other countries, fupprefles the growth of them in the general opinion. But when we reflect on the frequent robberies that are committed in our own, it feems doubtful, whe- ther the feverity of the fentence anfwers the expected end. For a traveller, at leaft, who has his own intereft moft at heart, the fa- tisfa(5lion which we received was infinitely more eligible, than anjr that could have been made tis of a fanguinarj nature. We had recovered what we had loft all expeftation of feeing again; and to our hafte and good-will only, is to be attributed our not obtain- ing the unconditional benefit of the Ihaik's decree. As a fmall token of our refpeft, on our return home, we made up fuch a prefent as we judged would be moft acceptable to a man of his turn of mind, and fent it to the ftiaik by Ibrahim. It confifted of k couple of fine Ihauls, an Indian carpet and palampore, and an handfome [ 273 ] handfome fabre and cafe of piftols. The fabre and piftols, tho* articles of the greateft value, he returned, and fent us many thanks for our remembrance of him in the reft, which he faid he would keep for our fake. He alfo told Ibrahim, that he had diredled a merchant to furnifli us with camels for our journey, as the river was too perilous for us to venture on. This laft inftance of his at- tention ferved to rivet in our minds the chara6ler of Ifman Abu Ally, who is indeed a pearl thrown to the fwine of Ghinnah. MONDAY, ift September. Our whole thoughts now are turned to our departure. The merchant attended us early this morning, in company with the hakeem, to fettle the price of our camels. The common price is from eight to ten dollars each, and it is not furprizing that we pay the higheft. But the number of camels which they obliged us to take, was what vexed us the moft. We want but nine for our- felves and fervants, and they infift upon our providing fix more for the ufe of our guard. Thefe are our camel-drivers, who, in our late journey, were wont to ride two upon a camel ; but in the longer one we are about to enter upon, are to have a beaft apiece. Thefe additional camels will greatly encreafe the expence ; blit were the demand an impofition, we are determined to fubmit to it with a good grace, rather than trouble the fliaik any further upon our fcore. We wifh not to add to the number of enemies we have in this town, and mean to quit it with the utmoft dif- patch. We defired the hakeem, therefore, to advance the mer- chant the eighty dollars which he was to levy upon Ally, as aa earneft for the hire of his camels. A thought ftruck me during our examination yefterday, which I would not have had verified for the treafures of Egypt. The fliaik is old and very corpulent ; and had it fo happened that he N n had I 274 ] had biirft a blood-veflel in the heat of his paflion, I was revolv- ing the probable confequences in my mind. There was not a man of rank prefent, whom we could confider in the light of our friend. Even the nephew was neuter ; and there is no certainty of the part he would have taken, had fuch an accident befallen Iiis uncle. In truth, there is little doubt but we (hould have paid for his favor with our lives. Such a backwardnefs had been fliewn before his arrival to bring the offenders to juftice, and fuch a forwardnefs in his prefence to fkreen them from punifliment, that the fliaik faw through the partiality of his officers, and re- prehended them for it. One particular circumftance that betray- ed their bent, is worthy of remark, and efcaped me in the rela- tion of the bufuiefs of yefterday. The gold buckles which had been taken by Ally were put down in the lift of our lofTes, at what the Arabs imagined an exorbitant value. They could not flip fuch an occafion of gratifying their malice, and lowering our in- tereft with the king. They boldly taxed us with exaggerating our 16(tes, and endeavoring to profit by their mafter's clemency. They demanded that a jeweller might be fent for, to afcertain the truth of their charge. To this the fliaik was averfe, as, perhaps, con- ceiving we might have erred through miftake. But at our in- ftance a jeweller attended, whofe evidence defeated the malice of our enemies. He weighed them in the prefence of the court, and pronounced the gold to be equal to the value affixed, indepen- dent of the workmanfhip, which was fo rare and fo curious, that he "fappofed it muft have enhanced the price of the buckles more than one half. It mufl be obferved, that this jeweller, like the other mechanics of this country, was a Chriftian, and knew the fliaik too well, to be afraid of fpeaking the truth, to the great confufion of our accufers, who were completely crell-fallen at this retort, 2 We { 275 ] We had a frefli proof in the afternoon of the fliaik's concern for our welfare. It feems that the camels which went to Cairo with the company of Turks, luckily returned this forenoon, and as they belong to the fliaik, he is determined to accommodate us with them. This intelligence is juft brought us by the hakeem, who has fent to the merchant for our money to pay to the {haik's people. We are not a little rejoiced at this change, which will add not only to our fecurity, but enfure us good treatment from tlie camel-drivers on the road. At five o'clock they came to pay their refpefls to us -, and we have promifed the head-man, who we find is the chief of the camel-drivers of Ghinnah, and an officer of no fmall confequence, a prefent of a drefs on our arrival at Cairo. His camels are to be ready to-morrow evening, when we are to fet out on our journey through the wildernefs. We fiiall, in all likelihood, fall into the track of the children of Ifrael, when they fled from the verdant banks pf the Nile, and took re- fuge on the fliores of Arabia. We are to ftrike into the road to Suez, to flaun the parties that hover about the river j and it was not far below that city, that the Ifraelites were fuppofed to have eroded the Red-fea. I cannot, however, fupprefs my regret, at lofing this opportunity of going down the Nile. Had I been a man who travelled for his amufement, I fhould not probably have ex- perienced this difappointment. I would have waited here, agree- ably to an offer which the fiiaik made, or have gone to Jirje, as the little Turk propofed, until the troubles on the river were fubfided. No obftacle fhould have deterred me from exploring the courfe of fo celebrated a flream, but my being charged with bufinefs of a public nature, which will not admit of delay. The importance of this charge has been the rule of conduct of, at leall, Mr. Hammond and myfelf. It induced us to commit our- felves to an open boat in the Red-fea, in the hotteft and moll un- favorable fealbn of the year ; and it now prompts us to embark N n 2 chearfuUy cliearfully In a journey through a defart, unknown even to thehi- habitants of the country -, and which, except in the inftances I have recited, has not been traverfed for this centuiy paft, by any but the outcafts of the human kind ! In the afternoon we were vifited by three Chriflian merchants, who live at Dundara, a town about three hours, or twelve miles diftancedown the river. They are come here to compliment the fliaik on his return, and are the moil creditable people of the mercantile clafs whom we have feen. They had turbans of a blue checkered pattern, to diftinguifli them from Muffulmen ; and no native Chriftian is allowed to wear them of other colors, though this reflriftion is not enforced with ftrangers. Thefe merchants inform us, that there is an Italian gentleman, who has refided at Dundara for thefe thirty years paft, and who is a painter by pro- feffion. But we find that he has exercifed his art rather for his amufement than profit ; and that his own houfe alone is adorned with the productions of his pencil. We are curious to know the adventures which brought fuch a chara6ter to fettle in this obfcure corner, and, did our time permit, we fhould readily accept of thefe merchants' offer to bring us together. Notwithftanding the unfavorable difpofition of his fubjefts towards them, every thing Gonfpires to prove the fliaik' s affedlion for Chriftians. All his principal domeftics, and particularly his fecretaries, who enjoy his unlimited confidence, are of this perfuafion. Indeed, all ranks of them join to found the praifes of the prefent fiiaik, who Hands between them and the opprefTion of the Arabs. He has been their guardian for forty years and upwards ; and I fear there will be a great change in their fituation at his death. TUESDAY, 2d September. We wei'e furrounded this morning by a croud of fervants be- longing to the fliaik, who expe6l money from us. Though we might [ ^77 li might have got rid of them, by threatening to complain of their infolence, we chofe to avoid the odium of fuch a meafure ; and called upon the hakeem to accommodate the matter for us. Thofe who aflifted to punifh the offenders, we agreed to gratify with a piece of gold each : and the hakeem cUfmiffed the reft, as not be- ing entitled to our bounty. At eight o'clock w^ had a mefiage from the fliaik to attend him. We found him, as before, encompaffed by his principal courtiers ,• and he obligingly dellred us to feat ourfelves upon carpets befide him. He told us, that he had folicited our pre- fence, to give us into the charge of the mafter of his camels,, who is dignified with the title of a fhaik. This man was ac- cordingly called before us, and the fhaik addrefTing him by the. name of Hadgee Uttalah, informed him, that he was to convey us and our baggage fafe to Cairo ; and that fhould we prefer the leaft complaint againft his condu6l, his head fhould anfwer for it. Nothing could be more fatisfaftory to us, than a charge like this, fo publicly delivered; and of the weight of which, Hadgee Uttalah himfelf appeared to be fo fully fenfible. It not only tended to fecui'e us from the danger of treachery on the road, but the warmth with which the fhaik efpoufed our caufe, was, in our opinion, the ftrongeft" bulwark we could have againft the fecret malevolence of our enemies. The good old man be- came very familiar with us, and aflced a thoufand queftions con- cerning the natural and artificial productions of our country-. He admired a china bowl which belonged to the major ; but de- clined taking it, as common earthen-ware was full good enough for him. From this, however, he took occafion to mention :an European, who had been long in his fervice, and had the inr- genuity to imitate china very clofely. He called for a fpecimen of this fellow's fkill ; and we were furprized to fee a couple of vafes delicately wrought and painted. We were defirous to be- 9 hold [ 273 ] hold the artift-, but were informed by the fliaik, that he was left behhid at a town up the river. We now heard many droU anecdotes of this Englifliman, as he called himfelf. That he delighted in high-feafoned difhes, and drai"ik fuch a quantity of fpirits, that it was a wonder his infide was not confumed by fire. This intemperance fuited but ill with the fimplicity and fobriety of the Arabians. But the Ihaik was polite enough to fay, that the report which had been made to him of our mode of living, had effaced the difagreeable imprelFions which he had received of our countrymen. He would venture to add, however, that one article of luxury, which he obferved to be in ufe at our table, had given rife to the ideas of our wealth, and fingled us out as a beneficial prize to his covetous fubje<5ls. And this was the filver, of which our cups and fpoons were compofed. To a people who were accuftomed to wooden utenfils, that glit- tering metal was a bait, which had allured them to an unjuft though tempting purfuit. Far as it was from exculpat- ing the condu6t of the Arabs, we could not but feel the force of this oblique reproof. The modeft manners of the antient Romans, when in the meridian of their greatnefs, recurred to our imaginations. We blufhed for our deviating fo much from their example, in the prefence of a man, who trod in their foot- fteps without a mark to dire<5l him. And perhaps, for once in our lives, we defpifed the fymbols of oftentation and the effemi- nacy of falhion ! While we were thus engaged, the relations of the foldier who murdered Mahomet, together with the camel-drivers of the cara- van, were brought before the fliaik. They were accompanied by tlie father and brother of the deceafed, who appeared as pro- fecutors. The witneffes for the culprit making little or no de- fence, the trial was foon concluded ; and fentence of death was paffed upon him by the fliaik. Although the murderer came a prifoner [ 279 3 prifoner yefterday from Cofire, it is remarkable, that he was not prefent on this occafion, nor allowed to offer any thing in bar to his condemnation. If, however, the falutary laws of our free conftitution are wanting here, the lofs would not be felt, could this country continue to boaft of its prefent equitable judge. But thofe laws were provided to guard as much againfl the en- croachments of the crown, as the machinations of the fubjed. Happy the foil in which they flourilli ! Thrice happy the people who bade beneath the funfliine of freedom ; and depend not upon the uncertain character of a chief magiftrate ; upon the virtues or vices of a king ! As the name of the young fliaik of Cofire has not been men- tioned in this trial, we fuppofe that he was wronged by report, or fkreened by intereft from the charge in which his comrade was involved. It had come to the Shaik Ul Arab's ears, that this young man and his father had extorted money and effefts from us. The accufation had been framed by his courtiers, who were perhaps, jealous of the advantages they had derived from us; and every perfuafion was now ufed to make us acquiefce in it. Had we given fcope to our refentment againft this treacherous pair, it is likely, that we fliould have fupported the accufation; which opened a way to redrefs for their impofitions at Cofire, and their inhumanity in betraying us into the hands of fuch villains at Ghinnah. But one good aclion which they performed towards us, outweighed the multitude of their mifdeeds in our minds. We remembered that our lives and property had been at their mercy, both at Cofire, and in the road to this place. The firft had not been attempted by themj and when the laft could not have been with-held from them, we acknowledged a merit in their forbearance, when the principle which excited them to extort a part, could have put them in pofl^efTion of the whole. Wedk as this reafoning may appear to the flicklcrs for juftice, it had force [ 28o ] force enough with us to operate in favor of the delinquents. We knew the unlicenfed tempers of the Arabs, and it was i>ut fair to judge of them by their own rule of aflion. We declined, therefore, the fliaik's kind offer to call thefe fellows to account; and profeffed an ignorance of their being any other- wife acceflary to our misfortunes, than by their fatal recommen- dation to the family now before us. We had no latent meaning in this application, but the venera- ble fhaik did not let it pafs unnoticed. He pointed out the cer- tainty of the deteftion of villainy, either fooner or later. He de- duced it fi'om the inflance which was now before him j where, without a friend to take our part, the wrongs which we had fuf- fered had accidentally come to his knowledge, and the authors thereof had been punifhed according to their deferts. He called upon the father of Ally to own, that the hand of Pro- vidence was to be feen through the whole of this tranfaflion. That his fons were but the inftruments of our fafety, though avowedly our enemies ; and under the notion of enriching themfelves at ,our expence, had prevented our falling into the lurking perils which awaited us on the river. But that their intentions had been juftly rewarded. While we were flieltered under royal patronage, one of his fons had fallen in a conteft, about the very pro- perty of which he had deprived us -, and the other was crip- pled with blows, and covered with difgrace on the fame ac- count. The confufion of Ally and his father was not to be concealed at this incident. They feemed to be fufRciently hum- bled by the melancholy end of Mahomet, but this pathetic exhor- tation of the fhaik's had an evident effedl upon their feelings -, and the heart muft be corrupt indeed, that was not amended by it. For my own part, I never was fo edified by the difcourfe of a di- ■idne, as I have been, by liftening to the fentiments of this un- Jearned Mahometan. And it is not to be wondered at. His lan- guage [ 28l ] gnage was that of the heart, and his opinions breathed the fra- grance of truth. His do6lrine was a refle6lion of his life, and both equally bright and unfullied. When he admoniftied, he direfted himfelf to the confciences of his audience; and he never failed to convince, though it is plain he failed to reform *. At ten o'clock we took our leave of the fhaik, but are to fee him again before our departure, which is fixed for ten o'clock at night. On our return home we met a man carrying a red flag, and uttering aloud fome proclamation. His head was crowned with a chaplet of bays, and the croud were very attentive to his words. We enquired into the purport of his bufinefs, and were told, that he was an herald, who daily gives notice of the rifmg of the Nile. We underftand that it is now near its greateft height; and expert, when we get into the flats of Lower Egypt, to find the country entirely under water. We * From apaflage which I have lately met with in Dr. Pococke's Travels through Egypt, I am induced to think that he encountered this amiable perfonage, and was indebted to him for letters, which procured him both civility and proteftion during his voyage up the Nile. Ifman Abu Ally was, from our information, poflefled of his prefent dignity in the year 1737, and, of all the Arabians, was the moft likely to extend his humanity to ftrangers. The paffage is this ; " On the 3d of January, the wind not favoring us, we flopped at a place abcfut three miles from * Furfhout. Here refides the great fliaik t> who is governor of all the country on the weft as far as, AfTouan. I waited on the fhaik's fecrctary, with a pre- fent of five or fix pounds of coffee ; in return, he fent a live flieep to the convent to entertain me with, and introduced me to the fhaik, who was in an Arab drefs, fitting in a corner of a room. He rofe on my entrance, and my fervant brought in my prefent, which confifted of two boxes of prunellas, two of other fweetmeats, and fome glafs veffels. He afked where I intended to go ? I told him, to the CataraiSt. He replied, with a good-natured fmile, that a boat of Franks % lately went up ; and that the peo- ple faid, they came to difcover the way into the country,, in order to return and O o take I* Furlhout is in the neighborhood of Ghinnah. ■ ■}■ The literal meaning of the Shaik Ul Arab. J In this boat was Capt. Nordsn, well known for his accurate accounts of th? antiquities of Egypt, [ ^82 ] ■ We have been employed the whole day in preparing for our cr- pedition. Bread, bifcuit, and flour were brought us in the after- noon, fufficient to ferve us a fortnight; and with the beans pro- vided for our camels, run us up a bill of eighty dollars. But in this account are included a fheep and an half, which are fried down in clarified ghee or butter, and twenty new (kins to carry our water. With this flock, we truft at leafl to keep famine from our heels, in this journey through the inhofpitable wild which divides us from Cairo. We had paid the balance of our camel-hire, which amounted in the whole to 150 dollars; and were In readinefs to attend the fliaik, previous to our departure. But the camel-drivers are either fuperflitious, or have fomething to de- tain them until to-morrow night. They came to us about eight o'clock, and told the hakeem it had juft occurred to them, that to-morrow was the new moon ; a time above all other the moft lucky to commence a journey. He appeared very angry at their having adopted fuch an idea at fo late an hour ; and finding that no arguments could conquer their defire to remain here to-night, he referred them to the fhaik for an anfwer. The good old man was vexed at the delay they intended us. But his good-nature in- dined him to their fide. He fent for Ibrahim, and dire6led him fe tell us, that though the requeft was abfurd in itfelf,'the 'hu- moring their prejudices would be the readieft way to enfnre tire regard of thefe people. We fubmitted without a murmur to this irkfome detention ; and the more fo, as the fliaik has added to his former kindnefs, by giving a camel to our conduftor Hadgee Ut- talah, to fave us that expence. .^l^e-l^d a(c :;f r^ni • .- •>.'--• -Oiq imod f')OQhi'- onfjufinf z\t\ -^H r*: We tike it ; AnA then dtfired to know what I wanted to fee ? I told hinx the ruined ci- ties. He oblervcJ, that we had no fiicii ruins in England, and afked, whether, if they Ihould go into our country, we would permit them, to fee ever-^ 'thing ; adding, that he would give me letters, and a man to go with me, fo that I might be affured I fjiould tiRVfl Ucurely." Chap. ^ Pococke's Travels. 10 We have juft heard that the fiiaik has changed the fentence of death which was paffed on the prifoner this morning, to a long imprifonment. It feerns, that an execution has not been knowii during his reign ; and he means to continue this ill-judged lenity. But this will be but of little avail to the affaflin, provided one of his family does not fall a facrifice in the interim, to the relations of the deceafed. This kind of retribution is exercifed with impu- nity in this country; and one life will glut the vengeance of the profecutors, though the offender himfelf efcape. But this is only in refpedt to each other. Should a Chriftian but accidentally fpill the blbod of aMuffulman, an hecatomb of his perfuafion would fcarcely fuffice to expiate the offence. i. lilgta jiiodB it! oi amsa \3il nodi nhx ^fi' WEDNESDAY, 3d September. It now appears likely that none of our letters have reached Mr. Baldwin. The camels are returned that carried the company of Turks away -, and we were furprized that no anfwer was come to the letter, which we entrufted to the Chriflian domeflic. But on difcourfmg with tladgee Uttalah, we find that they did not go to .X^Pairo. The Turks were formerly in the fervice of Ibrahim Beg, and though they purpofed to have defer ted to the party of Ifmaul Beg, their hearts either relented or failed them, and they halted at a town on the river, two days fliort of the capital. We have, there- fore, the greater reafon to congratulate ourfelves on the genero- fity of the Shaik Ul Arab ; as no application could have been made to him in our behalf, until our misfortunes reached, Mr. Baldwin. By his influence, we are in every refped better pro- vided for a journey, than when we left Cofire. We can depend more upon the goodnefs of the camels, and the honefly of the ,d,rivers.;;; We.have proviffons in plenty, and are furn]iTied be- - fides with limes, to affift in quenching our thirJ3;.j :,,x.VV'e -have Ci ^ O o 2 dried [ 284 ] dried dates with us, to vary our meals. This fruit, when dried, is much preferable to that frefli from the tree ; and when eaten with bread, is both a pleafant and nouriftiing food. We expeft to be but nine or ten days on the road; and as we go by ourfelves, we are in hopes to perfuade the Arabs to follow our diretlions— to travel the greater part of the night, and to lie by during the heat of the day. This mode of a6lion will pre- fei-ve us much from the fufferings, which we underwent du- ring our late journey. But we muft truft to chance for a fhelter from the fun at our different halting-places, as there is no fuch conveniency as a tent to be procured here. As we are on the point of leaving Ghinnah, it may be expefted that I drop fome obfervations on the cuftoms and manners of the inhabitants. But in a narrative of this kind, the reader will ga- ther more information from thecondu6l of the aftors themfelves, than from an autlior's defcription of them. Their general treat- ment of us is the beft glafs from which their piftures can be re- fiefted ; while the particular behavior of one or two individuals, is a convincing proof, that virtue is the common inheritance of mankind, and is confined to no enlightened fpot. It remains then only for me to fay a few words on points, too unimportant to have come into view before. No people are plainer in their drefs, which in the lower clafs is generally of blue linen. Thofe -of the higher rank endeavor to ape the fafhion of the Turks. They are arrayed indeed in fdks and woolens, but without lace and embroidery. They are univerfally modeft in their behavior^ decent in their converfation, and fober in their way of life. Ga- ming is unknown to them ; and ftrong liquors in fuch little 'fe- queft, that we. found but few Arabians, who broke through the precept of their religion, which forbids the ufe of them. But the vices they pofiefs, are fufficient to eclipfe the luftre of thefe good qualities. Were it not for the chenpnefs of provifions, the po- verty [ 285 ] verty of the people would bear hard upon them . But for the va- lue of a penny, each man can provide for the day. Befide meat and poultry, which are in great plenty, the river fupplies them with fine fifli at the loweft rates ; and eggs are fold at a penny the dozen. Thefe things we can declare from ocular demonftration ; and from our window we can fee the menial fervants of the fliaik receive their daily pay, which, we are afTured, does not exceed the value of a penny. Water is their only drink, except it be mixed with coffee ; enough of which may be procured for a penny, to treat a company of vifitors ; a fact of which we had frequent ex- perience. But the fimplicity of this race is befl 'to be deduced from the tigure which their head makes. The Shaik Ul Arab is very abflemious in his diet, and plain in his equipage. There is nothing magnificent about him ; and he generally appears in a black gown, which is very fine, and refembles our bombafin. His turban is of muilin ; and the only finery about him, an orange or ftraw- colored fhaul, which is carelefsly thrown acrofs his {houlders. He carries no ai*ms about him -, which we ob- ferved to be the cafe of all the old men, to proclaim, we fup- pofe, that war is no longer their province. fn There is no trull to be repofed in the word of a camel- driver. We fent to the fhaik at five o'clock in the evening, to requeft our final audience j and found to our furprize, that Hadgee Uttalah was with him, to demand our journey to be poftponed until the morning. Ibrahim rem.onftrated in our name againil this pi'oceeding, and the fhaik was enraged at its in'- folence. But his anger was of as little confequence as our regreh There was no prejudice now to be removed, but an obftacle mote infurmountable. The camels are not ready, and there is no help forlhe delay. ■' ! eta. ■rii io^ T PI U R 3- r a86 1 T H U R S D'2^¥i 4th SE?tE^^#kR; It is a matter of the greateft furprize to a rational being, to perceive mankind given to falfehood, without a beneficial end in view. And no where, as I have had occafion elfewhere to ob- ferve, is this praftice fo frequently to be met with, as among the Arabians. By telling one lye, tlie camel-drivers have reduced themfelves to the neceflity of adding an hundred to it. On their coming to us this morning, we reproached them with their du- plicity in the prefence of the hakeem ; and demanded to depart immediately, as the only recompence they could make us for our many difappointments. On this the whole myftery was unravel- led.' ; We found that fome of their camels had been fo much fa- tigued in their late expedition, that they were not able to travel before. But it is their genius to difguife the truth at all times ; and they made ufe of a thoufand fliifts to evade our departure, rather than difclofe the real ftate of the cafe. Our difpleafure is, therefore, rather directed at their folly, than their villainy -, and now we have got to the bottom of the affair, our chagrin is con- fulerablv leffened at this unexpecled detention. We have even (Gonfented, by their advice, to poftpone our departure until night; when our movement will be more private, and not interrupted by the croud of mendicants which await our charity. This flep was enforced by the hakeem's report, who recommended, by all means, ill\U we Ihould fet out after dark. , wgn£iii 3g£ix;o>n3 iiiw vtiAtnine o'clock we attended the liakeem to the flaalk's houle^ Ao receive our pafs, and to take our leave of our benefacloi-. We iartived there in the midil of a trial of the camel-people, for a robbery on the deeeafed Mahomet. After fitting about half an hour in a kind of lobby, we were advifed to fend in our names. On dding this, we were ufhered into the room where the court was held, and after the ufual falutations, we were foated on a raifed place to the right of the fhaik. His politenefs diclated a few queftions to us, after which he proceeded to the trial. We were not forry to have bur curiofity fatisfied in this particular ; and we attended with great patience to the procefs. There is no jury in this court of juftice, nor any judge but the flwik, whofe will is the law of the realm. When the evidences have beeii given by the witnelTes, they are crofs-examined by the grandeei=, who compofe thfe council. .The fliaik liftens 'attentively tOi:siU- that paffes, forms a judgment of the fac^, and at length pro- nounces the final fentence. At eleven o'clock we made a mo- tion to take our leave, and were difmiffed by the good old man with an hearty benediftion, and very cordial wifhes for the fuc- cefs of our journey. In our hearing he repeated the charge to Hadgee Uttalah, to put us down at the Englifli faflory at Cairo ; and not to return, without a letter under our hands and feals, to advife him of our fafety, at the peril of his life. To fecure his fidelity beyond the reach of temptation, the fliaik alfo directed, that the family of Hadgee Uttalah fliould be placed under a guard, as the furefl hoftagcs for the integrity of his condu6l. Our hearts were full enough at the idea of parting with this amiable chara6ter, but this laft proof of his more than paternal care of us, had fuch an effefl upon our feelings, that we were glad to retire, and conceal the ebullitions of our gratitude. The uniform greatnefs of foul which diftinguifhes this Mahometan, will encourage flrangers to enter his country without fear. xA.nd iti'^ not \mpleafing to us to reflect, that our misfortunes may contribute to the fecurity of future travellers. They called forth the virtues <>f this prince from the fliade of oblcurityi; and will be a leilbn to his fubjefts, ever to refpe^l the rights ofuhoa^ .Biauity. , ,;.,.. ..._■_. . _ ::,■ ... -;;■:,:! -^i:jAs we returned home we w-ere joiiied by the Jittje. Tuyki ^'^ho was [ 288 ] \Vas fo afirduous to engage our company by water. We an? concerned to feparate from him, but he declines our offer to ac- (■ommodate him by land. He confeffes, however, that he i^ under no apprehenfions for us, though he does not chufe to rifk his property in the defart. There is fomething inexplicable' in this ; but our confidence in the fliaik is too firmly rooted, to be fliaken by the fulpicions of others. We obferved that the Turk was much deje<R:ed at our approaching departure j and partly guefling at the caufe, when we got home, with the con- currence of my companions, I flipped twelve dollars into his hand, to bear his expences down the Nile. His countenance in- ftantly brightened up at this prefent j and he refumed his face- tious difpofition during the day, which he dedicated to us. We had already been indebted to his afliflance in preparing for our journey ; and the major now gave him the charge of his china bowls, wliich were to be delivered to Mr. Baldwin at Cairo. W^ alfo obliged the Turk with many odd things, which were fuperfluous to u s. But he had fome trouble in conveying them out of the houfe, from the vigilance of the domeftics, who were doubtlefs dlredcd by their mafter to have an eye to his mo- tions. Now we have feen our laft of the fliaik, the hakeem intimates that he cannot part with us, without a further gratification. This Abaffee ! this flave ! who cannot fit down in the prefence of his mafter, though raifed by his favor to the government of this city, has the afiiirance to affume airs of confequence, and tO'truft to our moderation for putting up with them. Befides our former gifts, he came in for one of the (hauls which we re- covered from the vizier, who, in our opinion, was as much en- titled to it as himfelf. He is now defirous of my filver hookah, though Ibrahim has informed him of its being packed up. Its ralue chiefly lies in the workmanfliip ; and it is more curious 2 than I 2Bg ] than ufeful to me. To prevent further importunities, I have fent it to this fellow, though it gave me the trouble of unpacking a trunk. I am fenfible that he would be degraded from his office, were the fhaik acquainted with his behavior. But he too much conlides in our former concealment of his meannefs, to be afraid of the confequences : and builds upon our generofity to repeat the offence. The fliaik has already been put to fo much trouble on our account, that we would overlook a great many impofitions, fooner than difturb his repofe with fi'efh complaints. We have already caufed fome changes in his ad- miniftration ; and it would be in us but a bad requital for all his favors, to foment differences between him' and his favorite fervants, on light occafions. We quickly experienced the good effects of our compliance with the hakeem's humor. He fent for the camel-drivers, to remind them of the treatment which they were to give us on the road; and fettled the ceconomy of our journey, and other points, which they had difputed with Ibrahim. When the fun fets, the ca- mels are to be brought to the door to take up our baggage, which is now reduced to half of its original bulk. After fup- per we are to bid our long-wifhed-for adieu to Ghinnah ; which it mufl be remembered, we owe to the virtue of one man ! At fun-fet Hadgee Uttalah came haftily to our houfe, and told us, that as we had paid ten dollars apiece for the other camels, he expefted fifteen to be paid him, for the prime beaft he was to ride himfelf. We were congratulating ourfelves before we were quit of this griping caff. We knew the fhaik had prefented him with the price of this very camel, but the fellow had timed his application fo well, that we were fain to comply with it. We were about to fet off, and neither our hafte nor the late hour, would have admitted of our communicating the affair to the iliaik. We had no money remaining that the Arabs knew of; but P p the [ 290 ] the old fox got over this difficulty, by offering to take our note of hand, payable at Cairo. We were the more reconciled to this expedient, as it feemed to intereft our conductor in our arrival at that city. Our baggage was placed upon the camels, and we took our leave of feveral people who had been civil to us ; particularly the quondam hakeem, in whofe behalf we had ineffe£lually exerted ourfelves with the fhaik. At nine o'clock we mounted our beafts, with the fame number of attendants as when we left Cofire : an Arab related to Abdul Ruffar, fupplying the place of the Indian Fakeer. We direfled our way towards the great mofque by which we entered the city, where we are to take up our water ; accompanied by the hakeem and a party of horfe, who paid us this compliment by the order of the fhaik. When we came to the watering-place a new matter was hatched, more fcandalous than any they had yet attempted. We had paid 'for fifteen camels, and given a promlfTory note for the hire of another. Now it was that fome of the owners of the camels, (of which there are three befides our condudor) applied for three additional beafts, under pretence of lightening our baggage, which they did not conceive would have turned out fo heavy. Much altercation now enfued. We were juftly nettled at a de- mand which had all the appearance of an impofitionj and loudly called upon the hakeem to take us back to his houfe. We threatened to acquaint the fKaik in the morning with their ill ufage. Nay, we even pretended to have changed our minds touching the route ; and declared that we would rather hazard ourfelves on the river, than among people, who prefumed to treat lis in this manner. This refolution feemed to alarm them. 'They prevailed upon the hakeem to vouch for their honefty. They declared that the propofal was meant purely for our intereft. To prevent our baggage from being left among the mountains, and s aouM. !>7fff '.iUl Oi." ^ Offf^i/etay,' '^1 and to fecure our lives in cafe of an attack, it was necefTaiy for us to travel with light camels. That we knew not the arduous undertaking in v/hich we had engaged ; or we fliould fcarcely hefitate to confult the only means, to fmoothe the difficulties be- fore us. Their application had indeed been too late. But to (!e- monftrate their fnicerity, they were content to be at half of the expence, rather than be in want of the camels ; and to take our note for the fifteen dollars, payable at Cairo. The candor of this offer reconciled us to the expence ; and we had experienced too many delays to contend any further about it. One of the owners returned to the city to colleft the additional camels, and bring them after us. At eleven o'clock we moved on, and were ftill accompanied by the hakeem, whom we flrongly fufpedled to be concerned in the lafl manoeuvre of the camels. He preceded us for about j quarter of a mile on the road ; when the troop faced fuddenly round, and, after paying us a complimentary fa- lute, went off at a full gallop towards the town. We con- tinued our march in a chearful mood, and going to the north, foon left the trees and the river behind us. Our waylay through a flony and uneven foil j and the moon is too young to afTift our camels to pick out their road by night. At two o'clock we halted, and fpread our carpets upon a very rugged and uncom- fortable place. We were three hours in motion, but find that our diftance from Ghinnah does not exceed five miles. I have here affixed a map of Upper Egypt, where the reader is prefented with the courfe of the Nile, and may purfue our route through the defarts of Thebais. FRIDAY, 5th September, I awoke at day-break with my eyes much inflamed and dif- ordered» I have felt a weaknefs in them for fome time, which P p 2 proceeded [ 2^2 ] proceeded from a cold in my head : and after fleeping under cover for this month paft, it is natural that the night air Ihouid have a bad effefl \ipon my eyes. I dread the journey a little on this account, and fliall not be furprifed to have a confirmed hu- mour in them before our arrival at Cairo, We are prevented going forward, by the additional camels not being come up. At eight o'clock Hadgee Uttalah fet off for Ghinnah in fearch of them, and v^^as accompanied by his fon. As this movement prefented us with a profpecl of remaining here the greater part of the day, we eredted a kind of tent with a cloth ftretched over our baggage, beneath which we made a fhift to creep, to fhelter us from the fun. But we had but a difagreeable time of it. What with the fufpence, the heat of the weather, and fome fufpicions which were propagated among us, of the honefty of our camel-drivers, the hours pafled very heavily. It was whif- pered to us by Ibrahim, that thefe fellows were not prepared for our expedition; and had only brought us out hei^e to deceive the Hiaik, who was enraged at their delay. As a proof of this, he told us at ten o'clock that the camels were about to leave us. We fallied out of our neft on this alarm, and found on enquiry, that the camels were only going to the Nile, to fill up the Ikins with water. But the folly of Ibrahim and the reft of our fer- vants, was very near being produftive of ferious confequences. They were of opinion that we ought to return with the camels to Ghinnah, and to apply to the fhaik for a more trufty conduftor. Never, until this moment, had the notions of Ibrahim deviated fo -much from propriety. But the honefty of his intentions gave ■'-them a weight, which I am convinced they would not otherwife have had ; and it was aflually debated amongft us, whether we nofliould return or not ! So precipitate and ill-advifed aftep, would not only have betrayed our unconquerable jealoufy of the Arabs, but in all likelihood, have funk us in the efteem of the fhaik. 5 It [ 293 ] It was happily over-rnled ; and the camels were permitted to go quietly on their neceflary errand. At two o'clock the camels returned ; and on numbering the water-ikins, we found them to amount to thirty. This is a great ftore ; but, from our former experience, may prove little enough for our wants, before we reach the next watering-place. We would not break upon our provifion, as our journey was not commenced ; and made a fhift therefore to dine upon dates and bread. At four o'clock we were agreeably ftruck with the ap- pearance of Hadgee Uttalah, and the Arab who went laft night in queft of the camels. They brought but two, and Hadgee came without his fon. On enquiring into the reafon of this diminution of our guard, we learn that the (haik has detained the fon, as a pledge for the fmcerity of the father. We infer from this, that the fhaik was not pleafed with our delay here ; and has therefore exacted this new hoftage from our conductor, to exprefs his diffatisfadion. Our baggage was now replaced upon the camels ; but a full hour was loft in difputes among the owners, touching the bur- dens to be afligned to their feveral beafts. Thefe were, how- ever, at length adjufted ; and at five o'clock in the evening, we left the ground with eighteen camels in company. Our way ftill lay through a ftony plain; and about fun-fet ,we mounted a craggy hill, from whence we were agreeably furprized with a fudden view of the river below. The land continues barren until within a mile of the banks j on which, buried in a ro- mantic wood, we difcerned the buildings of Dundarah, a town of which I have before fpoken *. The want of population can * According to the learned Dr. Pococke, there is a temple of Ifis in good p're- fervation at Dundarah, but no remains of that of Venus, fo much celebrate<i of iSii,- The peculiarity of their fituation, prevented the author and his companions from indulging their curiofjty at tliat, or any other place in the neighborhood. ^ be t 294 1 |je the only reafon, that a defart fliould extend itfelf to the vi- cinity of the fineft river in the yi^orld. And to the genius of a Mahometan government, muft that want be alone attributed. As we defcended the hill, we loft fight of the wood and water j and muft bid adieu for fome time, to fuch a regalement to our fenfes. At feven o'clock we halted for the night. The Arabs tell us, that the roads are too rugged and dangerous to travel ,over in the dark. This is a mortification to us : but we muft put up with having come but ten miles in two days, which is our prefent diftance from Gliinnah. Our courfe has, however, been northerly, and we are fo far in our route to Cairo. SATURDAY, 6th September. At half paft five this morning we refumed oui march. My eyes are ftill bad, and I have fufFered great anguifh from them on the road. The heat particularly afFe£ls them, though I defend them as well as I can from the fun. As we went along we ftarted fe- veral deer ; but they are too wild to admit of our getting a fhot at them. The road ftill continues rugged, and we afcended feveral hills, but could not procure another peep at the river. It is not likely that we are far from it by the courfe we keep, though it will behove us fhortly to maintain a refpedtable diftance, to avoid the parties of Ibrahim Beg, which are faid to hover about its neigh- borhood. At half paft eleven we halted to the eaftward of a pro- je6ling hill, under whofe friendly ftiade we ate an hearty meal of bread and meat. Our laft ftage was fix hours, or fifteen miles. As we came up to this place, wedifturbed a poor deer, that had fhel- tered itfelf here from the fun. Thefe animals abound in this de- fart J and as we have not met with, or even heard of, any wild beafts, or venomous creatures in our peregrinations, I conclude Egypt to be free of them, notwithftanding the fables of antiquity. In [ ^95 J In India we Gonfider It as a thing almoft certain, to find tygers near an herd of deer, whicli Lhcy are always )|-irerved to follow as their ufual prey. When our dinner was ended, we laid down to take a nap. The hour was inviting thereto, and the flay we were to make here, admitting of the fweets of repofe. When I awoke in the afternoon, Hadgee Uttalah perceived m,y eyes to be much inflamed, and very kindly profFei'ed me fome re- lief. The Arabs generally carry a medicine about them, for the cure of a diforder to which they are fo fubje6l, from the duft an*^ heat which incommode their country. Experience muft have proved the efficacy of the medicine ; and I was fo remote from, any hopes of afliftance, that I even ventured to fubmit my eyes to the hands of this quack. The medicine is of a black thick confift- ence, and, on his introducing it with an inftrument into my eyes^ occafioned a momentary fmart. At four o'clock we purfued our journey, and keeping the fame dire6lion, without varying the fcene, at feven o'clock we reached the foot of a prodigious high mountain, which we caimot afcend in the dark. Here, therefore^, we took up our abode for the night. The laft flage was three hours, or feven miles, fo that we compute ourfelves to be tliirty- three miles from Ghimiah. Our courfe to-day has been N., N,.E^* ■ "V SUNDAY, 7th September. c The Arabs have a very good cuftom of drinking coffee, before they leave their ground in a morning. This we have adopted,, and find it much more efficacious in taking the chill off the fto- mach, than the old Englifh prefcription of a dram, with which we are, perhaps, luckily unprovided. By fix o'clock we had accoutered our camels, and, leading them in our hands, began to afcend the mountain on foot. As we mounted the ffeep, we fre- qiuently blell ourfelves that we were not riding,, as the path v/as [ ,. 29.6 ] fo narrow, the leaft falfe ftep muft have fent the be^ft down the bordering precipice. But it muft be confefTed, that the camel is the moft fure-footed of all beafts of burden ; nor do I recolledt in this fatiguing march from fteep to fteep, that my camel ftumbled once.' We were upwards of an hour climbing this mountain, anq -on the top found an extenfive plain. But the profped: from hence was obftrufted by the adjacent heights, which in fome places overlooked th^ ground we were upon. We travelled about two hours on this mountain, where ive found a fenfible difference in the fharpnefs of the atmofphere, and at nine o'clock began to de- fcend. We once more difmounted our camels, which we had rode over the level furface, and haftened down the declivity, in a third of the time which we took to go up. The path winded round the fideof the mountain, and to our left an horrid chafm, fome hundred fathoms deep, prefented itfelf to our view. It is furprizing no ac- cident befel the loaded camels, whofe harnefs is fo bad, that they were frequently flopped in the middle of a defcent, to adjuft the baggage which had been dlfcompofed by the violent motion of the animal. When we gained the bottom, two of the camel- drivers puflied forward to fee if they could fhoot a deer. We have but little dependence upon their matchlocks, which muft be reft- ed to take a good aim : and though my companions have mulkets, they will not rifle their reputation by trying their fkill, as they have not balls that fit their pieces. We winded through the val- ley, where we met with numerous thorn-trees in full bloflbm and fragrance J and after along march, halted at half paft one o'clock to the eaftward of an high hill. Juft before we reached this place, , a ludicrous circumftance enough happened to me. I had loiter- ed about two hundred yards behind, in company with three of the Arabs, who fuddenly ftopped my camel, and, by figns, for- bade me to proceed. This abrupt behavior roufed me from a re- verie in which I was plunged > and, on my attenipting to go on, they [ 297 ] theyftill detained me, and frequently cried out, *' Huffal, iiur- fal." I looked immediately for my companions, who, I perceiv- ed, were treated in the fame manner ; and I was about to have rc- courfe to my arms, in order to force a paffage to thera, when, behold ! a fine buck ran acrofs the road in front of us, which was followed by the report of a piece. The myftery was now unra- velled, and I was in a moment delivered from the greatefl .per- plexity I had ever experienced. This had arifen from my imper- fe6l acquaintance with the language. The word " Huflal," which had appeared to me like a term of command, I now found to be a deer in Arabic. I quickly rejoined the troop, and laugh- ed heartily with them at the adventure. I need not add, that we did not dine upon venifon to-day. We had recourfe, however, to our potted mutton, of which we muft be fparing, as our conductor and the camel-owners expert to partake of it. We did not lay our account with this partition, but will fubmit to it, rather than put thefe people out of humour. The laft flage was feven hours and an half, or nineteen miles. At half paft three o'clock we were mounted again, and going through the fame valley, in about an hour, reached the bottom of another fteep mountain. We were obliged to lead our camels up, and in about half an hour gained the fummit, where we found a plain near two miles in length, over which we rode. At fix o'clock we came to the extremity of the mountain, when our advanced guard alarmed us with the news of a party of camels being in the vale. As it was a fufpicious place to encounter any of our own fpecies, we all took to our arms, and aflembled on the defcent, which was fo craggy, and fo perpendicular, that, fmall as our numbers were, we were enabled, by our fituatlon, to have coped with a multitude of enemies. The llrangers had obferved our motions, and drew up in a body below to wait the refult. We counted no lefs than thirty camels, and deduced therefrom, that Q^q we [ 298 ] we fliould have two to one againft us, in cafe of hoftilitles. To- gain intelligence, however, of the difpofition of the ftrangers,. Hadgee Uttalah himfelf defccnded into the valley. He ventured himfclf unarmed, as a token of peace; and we were not a little, impatient to behold the interview which was about to take place. We v/ere deeply interefted in its event j and, circumftanced as we were, it is not furprizing that we fliould doubt of its fuccefs. But we were happily deceived in our ideas. No fooner had Hadgee Uttalah approached the new party, than he was recognized by one among them, who ran with open arms to receive him. He was prefently encompalTed by the reft; and we could difcern that he. was ferved with coffee and bread. This ftaggered us in our opi- nion of thefe people's profeflion j and we began to conceive that they might be travellers like ourfelves, who, in thefe critical times,, had explored the defart, in preference to the river. And we were, now confirmed in this conceit, by the figns which Hadgee made to us to defcend. Thefe figns were interpreted to us by our Arabs, who told us there was nothing to fear. We obeyed, there- fore, and went down the hill in as good order as the path would admit of. We were met at the foot of it by Hadgee, who conveyed us and our baggage to a fpot at fome diftance from the ftrangers, and then returned to them. Many were the embraces and con- gratulations that were exchanged between the Arabs on both fides. The firft thing we learned was, that water is to be pro- cured in this valley, which has induced our gentry to halt here, and replenifli our Ikins. We arrived here at half paft fix o'clock*, fo that our laft flage was three hours, or feven miles. While Hadgee Uttalah was engaged in an earneft converfatioa with the leader of the other party, Ibrahim and Abdul Ruffar came to us with looks of furprize, and informed us, that they had dif- covered the ftrangers to be what we at firft apprehended — a band of robbers. That they had overheard one of them boaft, that this 7 band [ 299 ] band took the forty camels near Cofire during our ftay in that town — an anecdote which I before mentioned — and that on the banks of the Nile, they had plundered a caravan but a few days ago, with the fpoils of which they were now returning to their own country ! It may be imagined that we were not a little ilartled at this intelligence. The novelty of the circumftance did not di- minifli its unpleafantnefs ; and our fituation was as alarming as uncommon. We were turned adrift in a wide defart, and, in cafe of oppofition, were to depend upon our arms, and the fidelity of our Arabs. Even conqueft would not avail us, were we obliged to fight againft our guides. In the defart only could we look for fafety in this hoftile land; and we had no clue to unravel its mazes, fliould we be abandoned by our people. Thefe were the firft: reflexions which fuggefted themfelves j but our minds were prefently relieved by the alfurances of Hadgee Uttalah, who now joined us. He made no fcruple to acquaint us with the profellion of the robbers ; but added, that they had as much regard for their word as other people. They happily knew him, which was in- deed the faving of an effufion of blood. For, on the fcore of friendfhip, they had pledged their word to him, that they would not meditate the leaft wrong againft us. We might truft them implicitly, for the wild Arabs had never been known to break their faith on fuch occafions. After this prelude, we were the lefs fuf-' prized at a propofition which they had made him, to accompany us to Cairo. Hadgee himfelf recommended to us to accept of it. Our intereft, he faid, was every wa}^ concerned in it. They would ferve us both as guides and protedlors, in this unfrequented wafte : and where they once adopted a caufe, it was their cha- racter to promote it at the expence of their blood. Had we dif- trufted this panegyric, it was not for us to difl'ent againft the opinion of our conda6tor, who was aftually the mafter of our perfons and effeds. The pledges he has left at Ghinnah will prer-' Q^q 2 vent vent his rifking his charge wantonly , and on this we rely at th.k jun6lure. We have fallen into precious company ! and it behoVe^ us to be on our guard as much as poflible. Never did heroes In romance plunge into greater perplexities^ ; and wex-e not this narrative well attefted, it might feem here to breathe the air of fiftion. But the good genius which prefided over every adven- ture we have atchieved, will, we truft, condu6t us fafely through theprefent. ■ At feven o'ciotk the 'cirtith belonging to the robbers went on for water, and left their captain and a guard only with their bag- gage. This Was a proof of confidence j but we betook ourfelves to bed, with our arms by us as ufual, and got as much fleep as the cold would admit of. I was fo unfortunate as to be ftripped of my night-cloak at Ghinnah, and have no defence but a chintz cover- lid againft the fharpnefs of the wind, which is due north, and as cutting as I ever felt it out of Europe. When we begin to travel ' at night, the motion will make us lefs fenfible of the cold. This valley is, by our reckoning, fifty-nine miles from Ghinnah. Our "^courfe to-day has been N. W. -31 aifl c-i -1. M ON DA Y, 8th September. 2B \3hit Tsadi no f^^q^ i awoke at four o'clock this morning, and found that the ca- "Snels belonging to the robbers were not returned from the fpring. ^^^heir baggage lay within view of us, among which I learn there is ^ ^xoffee, fugar, and fail- cloth, which they have lately taken, and are ~ 'iarrying for fale into the neighborhood of Cairo. At day-break 'our camels were alfo difpatched foi- water, and left only Hadgee Uttalah and the owners of the camels with us. As there was no hope of our decamping before noon, to amufe myfelf after break- "^ I'aft I fat down to tranfcribe an ode, in the compofition of which "* i was diftuibed yefterday by the adventure of the deer. My camel [ 3°i ] is the iazieft of the fet, and affords me frequent opportunities for mufing, by lagging behind the reft. A pretty place for in- fpiration, truly ! methinks fome critic cries. But as gay fcenes give birth to gay ideas, fo the verfe portrayed in a defart, can- i^ot fail to partake of its ftrong and gloomy coloring. Thqfe readers who are of a difpofition to relirti fuch a pi£lure, may look to the Appendix ; where, to avoid breaking the thread of my fubjefl, I have placed this ode. Conceived among the ob- jefts it defcribes, it is chiefly calculated for the penfive, mel^nchoty heart J to which I beg leave to addrefs it. It feems that robbery is no diflionorable profeffion among the Arabs, while they confine their attacks to the people of other diftricls. Their friends and acquaintances may encounter thefe banditti without violation ; and it is feldom known, that they lay their own countrymen under contribution. Our Arabs have fallen under the former defcription, and it is to this extraordi- nary obfervance of faith, that we (hall be indebted for our efcape. Their cuftom is to make excurfions into diflant pro- vinces, and to return to their own, with all the plunder they can coUeft. They confider it rather as carrying on a petty war, than as an infringement of the rights of mankind ; and in this re- fpe6f, perhaps, have as much reafon and juftice on their fide, as moft of thofe heroes who have defolated the earth, and whofe crimes only want to be diverted of the vain eclat of uncommon a6tions. The government itfelf winks at thefe proceedings, which enrich its fubjefts -, and while the delinquents keep beyond the immediate cognizance of juftice, they have nothing to appre- hend from its refentment. And if it be confidered, tl^at many of their affociates are men who have been guilty of no offence, but have been obliged by the crimes of fome of their family, to :take refuge in the defart, to fhun the vengeance of individuals, rwe ftiould be the lefs furprized at meeting with anjinftance of ^- humanity [ 302 ] humanity and forbearance among them. The cruel policy of their laws has peopled the wafte ; and driven men of fair cha- racter to mingle with the vile, and to prey on the unwary tra- veller ! The captain of the gang was introduced to us by Hadgee Uttalah at breakfaft, and took a cup of coffee with us. He is a bold, laughing villain, of a middle fize, but large limbed : and would be well-featured, were not his mouth disfigured by a deep fear, which contra6ls his upper lip, and betrays the lofs of fe- veral of his fore-teeth : the effedls we fuppofe of one of his ren- counters ! There is a freedom in his behavior, which gains liim our confidence. Far from being afliamed of his way of life, he talked of his late exploit, and produced two pair of morocco flippers, a Turkifli veft, and other articles of drefs, for fale. Thefe we readily purchafed, to conciliate his good opinion ; and uecefTity muft excufe our receiving ftolen goods, knowing them to be ftolen. Abdid Rufiar bought an Alcoran, and other religious books, the plunder perhaps of fome poor prieft j and Ibrahim a French horfe-piftol, which will be of more flievv than ufe to him. Thefe things we have procured for at leaft a third of their value : and Hadgee Uttalah haa fatisfied the rob- ber, for which we are to account with the former at Cairo. We have been careful to inftil into our own people the belief of our being deftitute of rnoney ; or God knows, what raifchief the dif- covery of our real treafure-s might produce againft us. Our for- tune is very peculiar. We might have gone this road a thoufand tirnes, without encountering thefe freebcK)ters . Had we arrived at this pafs but half an hour later, we fliould have miffed of them, as they were liafting through the valley to get water, and, dreamed as little as ourfelves, of-flumbiing upon human crea-r turejs i^i this unfrequented wafte. But the event only can de- citfe^'wiiethei" the meeting be propitious or not. We have often,- during [ 3^3 ] during our journey, had occafion to applaud Pope's ccleb-rated maxim, that " whatever is, is right." And though fo flattering to our interefls, may we not hope that even this will prove a f'refli teftimony of it ? The dealings which we have had with their captain, fhew that he means to a6l upon the fquare with us ; and we are ftill encreafmg our debt with our Arabs, of which they are to look for payment at Cairo. At eleven o'clock their camels returned from the fpring, and had their intentions been hoftile, they could not have found a better opportunity to execute them, than in the abfence of a great part of our force. But their ideas were of an oppofite na- ture. In the afternoon they killed a young camel, in compli- ment to Hadgee Uttalah j and nothing went forward but pre- parations for an entertainment. This flefli the Arabs efteem be- yond all other; and as they prefented us with a piece, our ftomachs were not pampered enough to refufe tafting of it. Though we had eaten our humble repaft, we had fufficient appetite to find the meat tender and well-flavored. It is coarle enough, however, and might be mifbaken for bull- beef. At three o'clock our camels returned, with the fkins filled with good water. There is a feaft however among the Arabs, which cuts off our expedlations of getting away before the evening, Were it not for the delay, we have not fpent a dif- agreeable day in this valley. It is fo cLeep and fo narrow, that there is ever a ftiade to the eaft or weft fide of it, and a draft of wind drawing through, which alleviates the noon -tide fervor. We find, to our great regret, that we do not move to-night: Hadgee Uttalah now tells us, that as the camel was killed on our account, we cannot in decency but flay, until the ftrangers have drefied and prepared it for the journey. This will take up until dark, and we have another craggy mountain to pafs over. As t m ] As the troubles probably fubfift at Cairo, the old man propofed to us a plan, to carry us to the place of thefe robbers' refidence. This is fituated near the river, and but a few hours diftant from that city, where he will accompany us in a boat. And the rea- fon he gives for this manoeuvre, is plaufible enough. His camels run a rifle of being prefled for the war, fhould he venture them to Cairo. Notwithftanding it was the Shaik Ul Arab's pofitive direvfVion, that the camels fhould fet us down at the Englifh fac- tory, and the fcheme itfelf is not wholly to our mind, we rfluft have that confideration for thefe poor creatures' property, as not to hazard it wantonly at the capital, if we can be conveyed there, though at a little more expence, in a boat. We have, therefore, iriven our conduftor the latitude to a6l for the beft. But not to forget our intereft while he promotes his own. The crackling of fires was now heard on all fides, and the meniafl Arabs were bufy in turning the large joints upon the glowing em- bers. Some were dealing out their fcanty allowance to the camels; while others unfheathed their glittering blades, to portion out the night's repaft. Meanwhile the chiefs were afiembled apart, ftretched upon the hides of fome ferocious animal, once roving and lawlefs like themfelves. Their arms were thrown peaceably by them J while from each mouth, a long protended tube difpenfed the fra'^rant fumes of Perfia's weed. Deeds of bold hardiment are now retold : and each vain-glorious boafter is hero of the fre-^ quQnt tale. His province, war ! and man, his fpoil ! Thus fleet the hours, 'till languor creeps upon the band, and quick refigns them to the arms of fleep. ■' '^^^f^ ndi ri: TUESDAY, Qth September. -nT%g V/ght was (harp as ufual, which occafioned us to lie longer this moi'mng to comfort ourfelves. We did not move off our ground I .305 ] ground until half paft fix o'clock, and the robbers then were not ready to accompany us. They defired us however to proceed, and promifed to follow foon after. For three hours we winded through the valley we flept in, and about ten o'clock, began to gain the high ground by a regular afcent. The reft of this day's journey was continued over a fuccelTion of hills and dales ; where the road was fo intricate and broken, that nothing but a camel could get over it. The appearance of the road is fo frightful in raany places, that we do not wonder, why our people have hither- to laid by in the night. The air is fo piercing on the hills, that we feel not the leaft inconvenience from the meridian ray. The fun, indeed, is far to the fouthward in this month, and we daily haften, to our great comfort, from each other: add to this, we have turned our backs upon him. We can already pronounce this jour- ney to be of a different complexion from our laft. The roads, it is true, are more difficult and dangerous ; but the feafon is fo much changed for the better, that we fcarce know what it is to thirft, or to fuffer any but a partial heat. At one o'clock we entered another valley, which we traverfed until half paft two, and for want of a breeze, found it comfortably hot. Here we halted, and were not lucky enough to gain the leaft ftielter from the fun. The change was difagi-eeable enough from our late iituationin the high ground. We paffed fuddenly from the extreme of cold to that of heat. " Extremes by change more fierce." This valley we found to be the proper watering-place : the fpring we met with yefterday, being only known to the robbers who haunt the wafte. Our ca- mels were accordingly difpatched to replenifh the few empty (kins, and to drink themfelves, againft the long thirft they are to expe- rience. We fprang a brace of partridge and feveral quail in this valley, which has good cover of fragrant ftirubs. The laft ftage was no lefs than eight hours, or twenty miles, and by our reckon- ing, we are but feventy-nine miles from Ghinnah* Our courfe R r to-day [ 3o6 ] to-day has been N. N. W. We now fee that yefterday was ab- fohitely a loft day, and if we travel at this rate, our provifions, as well as patience, will foon fail us. It was whifpered about that the robbers had taken a different route. We had been here near two hours, and there were no figns of them. This made us fufpe6l, that they had amufed us with the idea of joining us, and we were rather doubtful, whether the feparation would be to our advantage or not, when a little after four o'clock, I faw the captain of the robbers with two at- tendants, advancing towards us with a quick pace. Shortly after the whole band appeared in fight, according their fteps to the tune of a fong, and feemingly carelefs of the fun-beams and of the world befide. They make a formidable figure, and are trebly armed to what our party are. How different is the faft from wJiat was reported of their difcipline and arms ! Befides his matchlock, which is flung behind his back, each man has piilols in his girdle, a fabre on his left fide, and a hanger on his right, while in his right hand he brandifhes a fpear. They are alfo in general better mounted than we ; and our having out-marched them to-day, muft be attributed to the additional load they have carried in the flefli of the camel. The principal part of our force was abfent, and they had another fair opportunity of at- tacking us to advantage. But very amicable was their falutation; and they only thought of fending their camels to the fpring, which met cur's returning thence. This we find will detain us here un- til the morning, and is the fecond delay which thefe people have occafioned us. We learn that we are to march for three days on the mountains, before we defcend towards the Nile, where we are to watei- next ; v^liich argues the neceffity of going from hence with full Ikins. W E D- [ 30? 11 WEDNESDAY, loth September. , We were late as ufual in decamping this morning. The Arabs feem not to relifh the morning air, and make up for the delay, by marching an hour or two longer during the heat of the day : a circumftance not over and above agreeable to us. But, perhaps, I fpeak chiefly for myfelf, whofe eyes are Hill weak, tliough on the mending hand, and much incommoded by the rays of the fun. Our fa.tisfa6tions are feldom without their alloys. In a converfa- tion we had with one of the owners of our camels, as we drank our coffee, he let us know how much we were in the power of his cpuntiymen. He had the alFurance to laugh at the idea of the Shaik Ul Arab, who he faid was nobody here ; and added, that were it not for himfelf and his companions, we fhould have been fVripped by the robbers, and now been wandering about the defart, defli- tute of food and raiment *. There was fomething in this piflure that did not flatter our imaginations. Our pride was alarmed; and we quickly retorted, that we never would be reduced to fuch a condition, while we had a hand remaining to wield a weapon. But infpiteofthis fellow's arrogance, we thought it prudent to retain him in our intereft. We commended his fidelity, and appeared thankful for his friendfhip, which we promifed to fliew a proper fenfe of on our arrival at Cairo. His behavior, indeed, is quite the reverfe to that of Hadgee Uttalah, who is not only a quiet, civil body, but one, who fpeaks of his Ibvereign with deference and re- fpe6t. At half paft fix o'clock we began to afcend a mountain nearly perpendicular. The way was rugged, and one of my camels be- R r 2 ing * This very fituation has fince been the lot of a company of Europeans, between Suez and Cairo. The miferable end of thofe who perifhed in this horrid manner, fhould redouble our fenfe of our providential efcape. r'3o5 1 ing fkittifh, or perhaps uneafily laden, fuddenly threw his burden from his back, and difordered the whole body. My trunks pitched from rock to rock, until they got to the bottom ; and I am in- debted to good luck, that they were not broken to pieces. The contents which fuch an accident would have publiflied to the rob-' bers, might have awakened the fpirit of rapine which lay dor- mant within them, and tended to difturb the prefent harmony which fubfills between us. Ibrahim was fent down to replace' the baggage, and found one of the robbers very kindly affifting the driver in that office. We were near an hour leading our ca- mels from one afcent to another, before we conquered the fum-' mit J and for three hours rode over a plain, where neither fliruT> nor bufh was to be feen. At ten o'clock we defcended into a val- ley, where we halted to breakfaft. In this valley, we found plenty of provender for our cattle : Rofemary bufhes, and other fhrubs of uncommon fragrance, which, being natives of the defart, are ftill, perhaps, without a name. Though thefe fcented plants are the ufual food of the camel, it is remarkable, that his breath is infufferably nauleous. But when he is puflied by hunger, he de- vours thiftles and prickles indifcriminately, without the leaft da- mage to his mouth, which feems proof to the fliarpeft thorns. The lafl: ftage was four hours, or ten miles. -" ' ^. At half pad eleven we mounted agairij^ ^d traverfed the valley for an hour and upwards, when we climbed the moun- tains once more, by as narrow and craggy paths as human feet ever tro.-l. As we overlooked the precipices befide us, I difco- vered feveral channels apparently worn with water, and am con- vinced in my own mind, from thefe and other figns, that either the Nile formerly branched into this defart, or rivers ran here whofe fprings aie now choaked up. *' Dumb are their channels and their fountains diy." The very neighborhood of the Nile has undergone one of the unaccountable vicilfitudes of fublu- - ' ■ ■ - ' nary [ 3^ ] nary things : and the population of Upper Egypt has fhrunk to the narrow compafs of the river, which waters her extenfive domain ! The band of robbers keep in our rear, and have hitherto halted at an agreeable diftance from us. This condudl we ap- prove of much, as their mixing with our fimple fervants might be productive of difcoveries, not to our advantage. At half paft four, we entered a valley, where we dined luxurioufly in the fhade. We are much furprized to find that our bifcuit runs fhort. This will foon oblige us to mefs with the Arabs, and tO; eat of their flour cakes baked in the afhes. But while we keep our healths, we lliall fcarcely complain of our food, what- ever it may be. The Arab we hired at Ghinnah, is the perfoii on whom we mnfl depend for the manufaffcuring thefe cakes. He is a droll, who plays a thoufand antic tricks to divert the company. But I am of opinion, that he has more of the knave than fool about him. Ibrahim w^as always too indolent, to ad- minifler to our wants of this kind. And as to Abdul Ruffar, he has been of little or no fervice to us, fmce the leap he made for his life at the houfe of Mahomet. He has been long reco- vered of his bruifes, but they feem to have cooled his zeal for our interefts. The laft flage was five hours, or twelve miles and an half. At eight o'clock we moved on with the benefit of a line moon, and kept winding thi-ough the valley until half pail eleven, when we flopped at the foot of an high hill jfor the remainder of the night. The laft ftage was three hours and an half, or nine miles ; and we are by computation one hundred and ten miles from Ghinnah. Our courfe to-day has been to the eaftward of north. T H U R S D A Y, I'HURS'D'A'Y, nth September. We 4ecaniped in fuch hafte this morning, that we were dif- appointed of our coffee, and marched away with empty ftomachs. We led the camels up the hill before us, and for two hours palled over fuch a variety of hills and dales, that we could not pretend to mount our hearts. At eight o'clock, we began to defcend into a deep valley, by one of the moft dangerous roads we had yet beheld. On each fide of us were perpendicular fteeps, fon^ hundred fathoms deep. But the traveller's atten- tion feems to be purpofely diverted from the danger, by the magnificent objects which farround him. Here he fees pointed heaps of the brighteft cryftal, that dazzle the eye with their glittering ■ luflre : while ever and anon above his head, tre- mendous to behold 1 columns of the fineft granite, rent from the mountain, feem ready to bury him beneath their tottering weight. On every part is fuch a wild confufion of hanging precipices, disjointed rocks, and hideous chafms, that we might well cry out with the poet " Chaos is come again." Whoever can tread thefe rude retreats, without being ftruck with the fub- limeft ideas of that Almighty Providence, who prelides as well amid the gloom and filence of the defart, as in the noife and gaiety of the city, mufl be as dead to the emotions of fancy- as to a fenfe of devotion. Yes, omnipotent Father ! to thee we trull for our deliverance from the perils that furround us. It was through this wildernefs thou didft lead thy chofen people. It was here thou didft manifeft thy fignal protection, in fnatch- ing them from the jaws of deftru6lion which opened upon every fide. Though lefs deferving of thy regard, we defpair not of a profperous iffue to our v/anderings : and in the hope of thy fup- port, we look with indifference on what may befal us ' 7 At t 311 ] At nine o'clock we afcended a gentle acclivity, where we mounted our camels, and rode over level ground until half pad ten, when we halted among feme flirubs, to feed our beafts and to breakfaft. The laft ftage was four hours and an half, or eleven miles. -'At half pad eleven we refumed our journey, which ftill lay upon a plain. As we went along, we ftarted two or three deer, which were the firft living creatures we had met upon thefe heights. At two o'clock we came fuddenly upon a dreadful chafm in the road, which appears to have been the efFe6t of art earthquake. It is about three hundred yards long, one hundred yards wide, and as many deep ; and what is the ciiriofity, in the middle of the gulph a fmgle column of flone raifes its head to the furface of the earth. The rudenefs of the work, and the aflonifliing length of the ftone, announce it to be a * liifus na- tures,' though the robbers declared to us, that beneath the co- lumn there lies a prodigious fum of money ; and added, with a grave face, they have a tradition, that none but a Chriftian's hand can remove the ftone to come at it. We could hardly keep our countenance at this tale, and without attempting a labor, which would have been worthy of the fabled Hercules, we rounded this' gulph, which is called Somali j and leaving it behind us, v?t' entered a valley where we found a very craggy road. We con- tinued our courfe through this valley until half part five o'clock, when we halted under the fhade of an hill to dine. The laft ftage was fix hours, or fifteen miles ; and a very fatiguing' one it proved, during the hotteft part of the day. The robbers kept nearer to us than ufual, and encamped on the fame ground. Here our Arabs diverted themfelves with {hooting at a mirrk," at which they are very dextrous. It is neceflary for them, htivv- ever, to reft their pieces, which leaves them infinitely beneath our markfmen in fair ftiooting. The example of our people animated [ 3^2 ] animated thofe in the other quarter : and there was nothing heard but the report of fire-arms, during our ftay here. The robbers were much delighted with a mufketoon belonging to us, whofe execution upon the rocks was more terrible, and whofe report more loud, than they had any conception of. They re- marked too with wonder, that a matchlock mifl'es fire more fre- quently than a fufee, although the former has a match in lieu of a flint. At eight o'clock we mounted again, and refumed our courfe through tlae valley by moon-light, until half paft ten, when we flopped to take our repofe. The lafl: ftage was two hours and an half, or fix miles; and by our reckoning, we are one hundred and forty-two miles from Ghinnah. Our courfe to- day has been N. by E. and N. by W. FRIDAY, i2th September. We did not begin our march before half paft fix o'clock this morning, by which time we had broken our faft with a dilh of coffee. We dire<5led our courfe to the weftward, to gain on the river ; as this is the fourth day fince we filled our water- fldns, which make but a light appeaiance at prefent. We foon entered upon a very extenfive plain, fcattered over with a va- riety of odoriferous flin;bs, and bounded on all fides by lofty mountains, whofe tops were loft in the clouds. After the heights we have paffed, it is no pleafing profpe6l to behold new- difficulties to conquer. But alas ! fatigues feem daily to multi- ply upon us. ** Hills peep o'er hills, and Alps on Alps arife." — As we went along we perceived the frefli tracks of numbers of deer, which we fuppofe had taken to the hills on our approach. The nearer we go to the Nile, the lefs fterile is the face of the country. The foil in many places is mixed with clay, and feems lo capable [ 3^3 ] c'afiable of cultivation. At half paft eight o'clock we halted in a fpa- cious opening between the mountains, which leads due wed to the river. Here the Arabs tell us we muft remain, while the ca- mels fetch water from the Nile, which is about twenty miles diftant; As the war ftill rages there, they do not think it pru- dent for us to approach any nearer. The robbers have encamp- ed by us, and difpatched their camels on the fame errand. This delay will prolong our journey a day at leaft, and confequently the time we are to fpend with thefe honeft fellows. They are, however, on their good behavior with us -, and as long as they keep their word with our conductor, we are bound to i'peak well of tliem, whatever may be their general character and profeflion. We fhould have fpent a difagreeable day here, had we not fixed up fuch a tent as we contrived at our firft ftage from Ghinnah, to fhelter us from the fun. But there was no ftanding within it, nor any mode of entrance but upon our knees. This inconve- nience, however, is not to be mentioned, among others which we have long fuftained. Chairs find tables we have been utter flrangers to for fome months ; and it is no longer awkward to us to feed ourfelves with our fingers. While we waited for the return of our camels, we were alarmed about noon by the report of two cannon. It came from the river, and we began to apprehend that there might be troubles in our neighborhood. Remote as we were from the fcene of the difpute, the fight of our camels might occafion an enquiry from either party, which might end in thedifcovery of our retreat. Thefe re- fleclions were not of a very confolatory nature ; nor did our fitu- ation call for foreign evils, to render it lefs enviable. But we were not otherwife difturbed, than in our imaginations. Everything remained quiet during the day ; and though the Arabs, as well as our fervants, repeatedly declared, that they heard the firing of more cannon, we imputed it to fancy or fear, and attended very S f - patiently [" 3^^ 1 patiently to the iiTue. We were indeed engaged in another mat- ter, which at firfl: had a lerious countenance. We found that our coffee and Tugar was expended, and that the camel-drivers were in want of more ghee, not withftan ding the large ftock wliich we laid in of thefe articles. Now it was that we became fenfible of fome of the good effects of the company of the robbers. What we fliould have fought for in vain in their abfence, their captain has fupplied us with, at half the prices which fuch articles bear at Ghinnah. Hadgee Uttalah has fettled with him for the amount, which we are to repay at Cairo. In truth, the confcience of this robber is no lefs wonderful than his manners. He is eafy of ac- cefs, and yet carries a proper command over his party ; and by his o\Yn example teaches them to be civil, and even obliging to us. We would willingly make him a faitable acknowledgment for this behavior, but do not think it fafe to produce money, or to depart in the leaft from our profefiions of poverty. It w'as with the greatell pleafure imaginable, that I could oblige him in a trifling point: with a couple of razors, which he faw in my fer- vant's hands, and exprelTed a defire for. As the night advanced, our anxiety for the fate of our camels encreafed. They did not return before eleven o'clock, and were abfent upwards of fourteen hours. They went to an unfrequent- ed inlet of the liver, but faw a countryman, who informed the drivers, that Ifmaul Beg had repulfed the gallies. of Ibrahim Beg, and difperfed his forces upon the banks of the Nile. We are pro- bably indebted to the horrors of the defart, that we have not en- countered any of the fugitives, who, to fliun famine here, have chofen a route more formidable in point of human perfecutions. This place, we underfland, is nearly oppofite to the town of Suadi, on the Nile; and as our ftage to-day was but two hours, or five miles, we are,^ by our calculation, 149 miles from Ghinnah. S A T U R- I 315 ] ■ yK. • ■ • A ''■■' 'SA'T UR D AY, 13th September. At half paft fix this morning we left our ground, and travefled over a plain until nine o'clock, when we entered a broad valley/ and at ten halted among fome buflies to breakfafl:. We now began to be in the fame mefs with the Arabs. Our own bifcuit was out ; but it was with no indifferent ftomachs that we partook of their un-' leavened bread. This is made of flour to be fure, but flour in the coarfeft fliate : and what with the making and baking, the reader may conceive that the bread is of a tolerable blacknefs, before it comes to our hands. We moiften this food with ghee, and crown the repaft with a difh of coffee, and a draught of water. I declare, for my own part, that I never enjoyed one, at any period of my life, with a better relifli. So beneficial are exercife and fobriety to the health! and fo fuccefsful is necefTity in overcoming the force of habit I I may fpeak confidently on the former heads, in regard to myfelf j as my conftitution is none of the flirongeff, and I have been ever fuhjecl to head-achs, and nervous complaints. But none of our company bear the fatigues of the journey better than myfelf j or have been blefl: with a greater fhare of health during our refidence in thefe parts. The humour in my eyes was but an external diforder ; and, thanks to our conduflor, did not much trouble me after the application he made to them. The lail ftage was three hours and an half, or nine miles. At eleven o'clock we mounted again, and purfued our route through the valley, which is pretty thickly covered with fhrubs. Nothing is fo difagreeable as to go for any length of way through a place of this kind. The poor camels will fl:op at every bufli to fatisfy their hunger ; and, did humanity admit of depriving them of this fcanty fatisfa6lion, neither words nor blows could induce them to mend their pace. At one o'clock we gained, by a gentle S f 2 afcent. ^ afcent, upon a plain, flony and bare of verdure. We left the hill in our rear, and toiled onwards over the barren flat in an hot fun until four o'clock, when we entered a valley ftored with rofemary apd other fcented bu flies. We winded through it until half pail four, when we halted to refrefli ourfelves and cattle. It muft be obfei-ved, that we found no fhelter from the fun at either of our halting -places to-day, which has rendered it the moft irkfome one during this journey. The lall ftage was five hours and an half, or fourteen miles. At eight o'clock we moved on with a fine moon. The night was very fliarp and cold, though I faced it without putting on any additional covering. The Arabs wrapped themfelves up in their cloaks ; and, with the affiftance of their pipes, contrived to baiBe the piercing wind, which is by no means agreeable to their feelings. Each man is provided with a flint and piece of fteel. To the fteel a bit of leather is affixed, which takes fire on the firfl flroke, and is ready to light his matchlock or pipe. An. unlucky accident had like to have befallen Mr. Hammond, from the ufe of thefe flints. A fpark of fire fell unknowingly upon the leather-bag which contained his ammunition ; and had he not by chance perceived the fmoke ifTuing from it, in a few minutes it is probable he would have felt the fevere effe6ls of the explofion. This alarm occafioned us to change our pofition, and we kept to the windward of the Arabs during the refl of the march. Our road, after leaving the valley, lay over level ground. As it would be next to an impoflibility to find the way over thefe flony flats, where the heavy foot of a camel leaves no impreffion, the different bands of robbers have heaped up fl:ones at unequal diftances, for their direction through this defart. We have derived great affiftance from the robbers in this refpe6l, who are our guides when the marks either fail, or are unintelligible to us. If it be confidered, that this road to Cairo is feldom or never trodden, it is no wonder 3 that [ 317 ] that our Arabs are frequently at a lofs for the courfe. We are but the third, and, perhaps, may be the lafl: company of travel- lers, who have ventured to go by this route, fmce the difturbances have arifen upon the Nile. Our little Turk at Ghinnah was par- ticularly averfe to it ; and though both his perfon and merchandize would in all probability have enjoyed the fame protection as our- felves, we are well enough pleafed that he did not encounter the trial. The truth of it is, the Turks are verv tyrannical maftej s, and the Arabs feize every opportunity to repay their obligations in kind. At twelve o'clock we halted to take our repofe in the open plain ; and fenced ourfelves from the cold wind as well as we could, with our baggage. The laft flage was four hours, or ten miles; and, by our reckoning, we are i8o miles from Ghin- nah. Our courfe to-day has been N. E. and during the latter part due N. SUNDAY, 14th September. We decamped at half paft iix o'clock this morning, and pur- fued our courfe over a level country. The river, we are told, runs within ten or twelve miks of us ; but we dare not approach it, whatever attra6lions it may poiTefs. On the road we pafTed the ikeleton of a camel, which now and then happens in the de- fart. Thefe are poor creatures that have perifhed with fatigue ; for thofe which are killed for the fuflenance of the Arabs, are car- ried away, bones and all together. Of the hides are made the foles of the flippers which are worn in Egypt, without any drefs- ing, but what the fini can givethem. The circumftances of this animal's death, when his flrength fails him on the road, have fomething in them affecting to humanity. Such are his patience and perfeverance, that he purfues his journey without flagging, as long as he has power to fupport its weight] and fuch are his fortitude [ 3i8 ] fortitude and fpirit, that he will never give out, until nature finks beneath the complicated ills which prefs upon him. Then, and then only, will he refign his burden and his body to the ground. Nor ftripes, nor carelTes, nor food, nor reft, will make Him rife again! His vigor is exhauJled, and life ebbs out apace! — This, the Arabs are very fenfible of, and kindly plunge a fword into the breaft of the dying beaft, to fliorten his pangs. Even the Arab feels remorfe when he commits this deed : his hardened heart is moved at the lofs of a faithful fervant ! — Peace then to thy re- mains, unhappy fon of want and woe ! May no rude wind dif- turb thy bones, no impious hand remove them from the reach of pafTing eyes ! At fight of them the traveller fhall drop a pitying tear. Thy force ! thy gentlenefs ! thy giant form ! thy toiling days ! thy haplefs end ! fliall rufh upon his mind, and loudly claim this tranfient tribute ! So may he hope to pafs fecure the horrors of the wafte — fo may the beaft which he beilrides, efcape thy fate 1 At ten o'clock we halted in the fun to breakfaft, among fome thiftles, which is all that the plain affords our poor camels. The foil here is gravel, intermixed with chalk and ftone. The lafl: ftage was three hours and an half, or nine miles. At eleven we refumed our march, over one of the moft extenfive plains in the univerfe. Not a hill, not a tree appears j and the eye, as on the ocean, is only bounded by the horizon. The iun here was veiy powerful; and the wind blowing over the chalky foil, proved more troublefome and difagreeable, than we have found it on the journey. We travelled the whole day without refting, though we were obliged to pull in our camels once or twice among fome bufiies, to refrefli them with a mouthful of food. At five o'clock we approached a range of high mountains, which run weftwaid to the Nile. We flopped within a league of them, until the cap- tain of the robbers and fome of the Arabs puflied on to furvey the pafs. [ 319 ] pafs, which is fometimes frequented by their fraternity, VVe. moved flowly after them, and at feven o'clock overtook them under the hills at the entrance of the valley, and were happy to find there was no appearance of danger. We flieltered ourfelves be- hind a thick fpreading bufh to fleep, as the north wind blew pe- culiarly cold. Here my fervant difcovered a fnake under his bed, which the Arabs tell us is poifonous. But it had no tokens of being lb, if I may be allowed to judge from the variety of fnakes which I have feen in India. This laborious ftage took us up eight hours and an half, or twenty- two miles, fo that we are by our reck- oning 2 1 2 miles from Ghinnah. Our courfe to-day has been to the weft ward of N. M O N D X'"^, 15th September. We were in motion by fix o'clock this morning, and advanced towards the hills, to which we judged we were fo near by the light of the moon. But it was a full hour before we entered the val- ley that divides them. Here we found plenty of provender for our camels, who get but a meafure of beans per diem each, befides the food which they pick up in the way. A llender allowance in- deed, for fo large an animal ! On all fides we obierved the frefli flot of deer, and of another creature, which I take to be an elk from the fize of the hoof, but which the Arabs call a mountain fheep. Thefe mountains are compofed of alabafter, porphyry, and granite ; large fragments of which are fcattered about the road, either by the force of a whirlwind, or their fall from an immenfe height. It was doubtlefs from this quarter, that the antient kings of Egypt furniflied themfelves with the materials of thofe fplendid edifices, whofe remains are yet vifible in the princi- pal cities of this kingdom. Thofe lofty columns which have aftoniflied mankind at Alexandria and elfewhere, and which have 10 bcea ■[ 320 ] l^reti frarirp*orted to Italy at a prodigious expence, were probably cut from thcfe quarries ; as the vicinity of the Nile afforded fuch an eligible conveyance to the fea. This is, in fa6V, but a conjec- ture J but fuch as a traveller rrriy be allowed to indulge himfelf in, were it only to redlify the miftakes of fome very ingenious wri- ters, who have fuppofed all tliis profufion of marble to have been brought from above the catara6ls of the Nile, and thence deduce the infignificancy of thofe celebrated falls *. But to me the pre- mifes appear fo ill-founded, that I cannot admit of the inference; though it muft be acknowledged, that accident alone could have led a ftranger to the difcovery of a qnarry, which is unknown or nnattended to, by tlie natives of the country. We winded through this valley 'till ten o'clock, when we halted among fome thorn- trees to drink coffee. This ftage was four hours, or ten miles. moV+ At eleven o'clock we refumed our courfe through the valley, which is well flocked with tJiorn trees that are large enough to throw a fliade. Our noftrils were faluted with a fine odour, as \vfe pafTed by the fnowy bloffoms that whiten the vale. On the road we flarted an hare, and faw many earths, which this poor creature burrows in to defend her from the heat. The wind was fo bleak, that the fun had little or no effeil until towards noon, when the weather turned very fultry. We journeyed the whole day in this valley, which in fome places extends itfelf near a mile in breadth. In the afternoon we were alarmed with the frefh tracks of a camel's feet, which make a flrong imprefTion in a foft foil. The Arabs do not take them to be more-than a day old, and pronounce a party of freebooters to be at hand. No travellers left Ghinnah later than a week before us ; and what bufmefs can bring any but frecr- booters into this wafle, isincomprehenfible tous. Danger feemed to be near us, and fcoiits were fent forward to advertife us of it. -.i c> :: --^i..-:: ; . • ^. •., . . , ,_ , ,. ,^^ 23fftud sfBoi ; 9dJ tnifidd L .xi -^cudhil ' * Bv the tefllmonies of Captain Notden and Dr. Pococke, thefe falls are really infignificant ; but neither of them penetrated to the fecond or third cataraft. [ 321 ] The robbers were employed in this office, and by the facility with which they traced the fufpicious feet, it appeared how difficult it would be to avoid fuch an expert pack. No hound could run ^ruer upon a fcent; nor do I fuppofe, any hound would be flauncher to the chace. We tiavelled on, however, without any in- terruption, and at fix o'clock halted to dine. We were in need of refrelliment, as the laft ftage was feven hours, or feventeen miles and an half. But our meat is quite expended, and we were obliged to put up with flour, which alfo begins to run fhort, for want, we fear, of oeconomy being obferved among our fervants. By Hadgee Uttalah's firft account, we were to have reached Cairo lafl: night ; and now he talks of two or three days more ! This miflake muft . have arifen, not more from the delays we have met with, than from his ignorance of the country. It behoves us, however, to be careful of the little provifion which remains. At eight o'clock we refumed our march by the light of the moon, and ftill found ourfelves in the valley. At half paft ten we halted to take our repofe. The laft ftage was two hours and an half, or fix miles, and by our reckoning we are 246 miles from Ghinnah. Our courfe to-day has been direct- ed by the windings of the valley, generally to the eaftward of N. TUESDAY, i6th September. We decamped at fix o'clock this morning, and prefently quit^ ting the valley, which is above thirty miles long, we entered upon , a plain, over which we travelled for fome time. At nine o'clock, we came fuddenly upon a well, which is fituated among fonie bi'oken ground. The fight of a fpring of water was inexprefiibly agreeable to our eyes, which had fo long been ftrangers to Co re- frelhing an objetSV. We halted behind the Ihade of fome bufhes T t a^ [ 322 ] ^ a little diftance ftom it, while we l>reakfafted, and repleniftied our fkins with that precious article. Xl^e laft ftage was three hours^ or feven miles and an half. • "^he morning was very cool and pleafant, and we beheld an hazy Iky, for the firft time, I belie\re, Cince we have been in Egypt. The heavens are ufually clear and ferene in this upper province, where I cannot learn the plague has overextended, during the pe- riods of its greatefl: rage in Lower Egypt ; to which land we are now approaching. Hadgee Uttalah tells us, that he will certainly put us into a boat on Thurfday morning. We cannot be any confi- derable diftanee from the latitude of Cairo, and have therefore the greater dependence on this promife. While we were at breakfaft we received a vifit from the captain of the robbei^s, who exprefled a defire to fee a double-barrelled piece, which he heard was in my poffeflion. After the honorable treatment which we had received from him, J could not do lefs than produce it. I went further, to. pleafe him, and difcharged it, to fhew him the nature of its con- ftruftion. He was much taken with the novelty of the invention; and after furveying it with particular marks of iatisfaflion and aftoniftiment, he returned it to my hands. I mention this circum- llance, to evince the exceffive forbearance of this man j whofe pro- feflion is thieving, and to whom a fire-arm of this kind muft -have been a very defirable acquifition. He had not left us many mi4t nutes, when onp of his followers brought us a prefent of a bag of flour, with his mafter's compliments. He had learnt from our condu£lor, that we were in want of it ; and tliough we did not chufe to be under an obligation to him of this nature, we could: ,not prevail on him to accept of any pecuniary confideration for it. All we could do, was to divide fome rice we had left, and fend the half to the captain -, which we had the pleafure to underfland. proved a new and acceptable food to him. This is furprizing^; coniidering the neighborhood of the Delta, which produces fuch- '• ' quantitiei. E Pi J quantities- of rice.' Butwemoift remembefr, that' fhis r(>liber K-aft detached himfelf from the {hciety of cities ; afrid is tibt hkeft t6i meet with any but the common grain, in his progrefs through the wafte. - r, - - We loft the greateft part of the day at thisTptifi^. '~ "TOougli our fkins were prefently filled, the camels were yet to drink, and we had not bargained for the time which this neGeffary bufi- nefe would take up. As the camels could not go to the 'A^ell', an hole was funk in the earth below the furface of the Ipring, over which a fkin was fpread', to retain the water which flowed into it. At this but two camels could drink at a time ; and" it was fix hours before our camels, which amounted t6 forty- eight in all, were watered. Each camel, therefore, by thi^ cal^ culation, takes a quarter of an hour to quench his enormous thirft ; and to water a common caravan of 400 camels at fuch a place as this, would require two days and two nights. A moft unforefeen and mconceivable delay to an uninformed tra-i ' veller ! At three o'clock we refumed our journey, and foon entered a dale, the moft fertile we had yet beheld. Here grafs, and a kind of wild grain, were intermixed with the fragrant fhrUbs, alft'd ; afforded a very agreeable change to our cattle, who devoured the frefh blade with unufual greedinefs. The banks on each ' fide of us, were green and floping, and the foil black and foft. From thefe circumftances, and the courfe of the dale, which winds N. W. towards the Nile, I take it to have been for- merly a branch of that river, but which has been long choaked ' up, except in uncommon inundations. As we wfent along, w6 ftarted feveral hares, and fprang a brace or two of quail ; but we are not provided with ihot to bring them down. At three quarters paft feven we halted under the bank of thfe dale, to takei ■ OUT- repofe. The laft^ ftage was four hour^ and three quarters, ' /^i'.- T 1 2 or C iH J or twelve mites ; fo that by our reckoning we are 266 miles from Ghinnah. Our courfe to-day was N. by W. .and N. W. ■ ■ ■- }.i '""" WEDNESDAY, 17th Septertber. We were mounted before five o'clock this morning, and mif- fing one of our camels, which had ftrayed> we were obliged tO' divide his burden among the reft, and to leave a man behind us to look for him. We foon quitted the dale, and afcended the high ground by the fide of a ntountain, that overlooks it in this part; The path was narrow and perpendicular, and much refembled a ladder. To make it worfe, w^e preceded the robbers ; and an ignorant guide among our ow^n people led us aftray. Here we found ourfelves in a pretty fituation ! We had kept the lower road on the fide of the hill, inftead of that towards the fummit; until we could proceed no further. We were now obliged to gain the heights, in order to recover the road ; in performing which, we drove our poor camels up fuch fteeps, as we had the greateft difficulty to climb after them. We were under the neceflity of leaving them to themfelves ; as the danger of lead- ing them through places, where the leaft falfe ftsp would have precipitated both man and beaft to the unfathomable abyfs below, was too critical to hazard. We hit at length upon the proper path, and were glad to find ourfelves in the rear- of our unerring guides, the robbers, after having won every foot of the ground with real peril and fatigue. In tha valley beneath Us; we paflTed by a fountain of fine water. It gufhed from a rock, and threw itfelf with fome violence into a bafon, which it' had hollowed for itfelf below. We had no oecafion for a frefrl fupply ; but could not help lingering a few minutes to admire a fight, fo pretty in itfelf, and fo bewitching to our eyes, which had [ 325 1; ftad of late been Grangers to bubbling founts and limpid ftreams. 'At fevien o'clock we reached the fummit of the mountain, and travelled until half paft ten, over a continued region of hills and dales. This aftonifliing jumble ! this continued afcent ! re- calls to the trayeller's mind the fabled battle of the giants, who, in warring with the gods, heaped hills on hills to fcale the ca- nopy of heaven. They iare rude, craggy, and barren, and the tracks over them hardly paflable.^ In the bottoms the foR is generally clay, and fo moift, as to denote our vicinity to the Nile, which at this feafon floods the country around. At fome openings to our left we once more beheld this noble river — be- held him after a long abfence, fweeping his majeftic courfe be- tween the towering mountains. We plainly difcerned the tops' of thofe to the weftward of his ftream ; and it feemed as if he had here fcooped a channel for his rapid waters out of the folid rock. We gradually regained the low lands, and at eleven- o'clock halted among fome flirabs, to refrefli ourfelves and cattle. Here our Arab overtook us with tiie miffing camel. The cir- cumftance of his wandering is very uncommon. The camel is the moil ftaid of all creatures, and remains by the baggage dur- ing the night without being picketed. The laft ftage was fix hours, or fifteen miles. ji r; ..noai T.n; At half paft eleven we refumed our march, and fBon came to the foot of a prodigious hill, which we unexpe6tedly found we^ were to afcend. It was perpendicular, like the one which we had pafled fome hours before j but what rendered the accefs more difficult, the path which we were to tread, was nearly right up- and down. The captain of the robbers, feeing theobftacles we had to overcome, wifely fent all his camels round the mountain, where he knew there was a defile, and only accompanied us with- the beaft he rode. We luckily met with no accident in climbing ilhift height, which our people tell, us, is the laft we ihall cn*- N^ ^ counter,. [ 3'26 ] ^counter. We' jotirneyed over the top until one o'clock, whew ■we defcended into a valley by a paffage eafy enough. Here wc were furprifed with the fight af a man and a camel, who were half-concealed by a fpreading bufli, Oiu- fervants were firft, and gave the alaira ; upon which the captain of the robbers puflied on his camel at its utmoft fpeed, regardlefs of danger, and me- ditating, perhaps, the feizure of feme booty. Our Arabs follow- ed him, and prefently furrounded the man. My companion* and myfelf hafted after. Our fituation was difficult on fuch an occafion ; but we had already determined on the part we were to take, fhould the diftrefs of a fellow-creature claim our protec- tion. We were bound by the ties of honor, to obfeive a ftri6t neu- trality towards the robbers, except when they infringed the rights iof human nature in our prefence. Happily for us all, the man in queiVion was no fubjefl for their depredations. We foon came up to him, and found he was a courier, who left Cairo but yefterday, and is proceeding with letters to fome town on the river. He is known to the robber, or it feems that he would not have ventured through the defart. He tells us that all is quiet again at Cairo. This news, and the certain vicinity of the city, Jiave put us all into good fpirits. The arduous enterprife is nearly . accompliflied, and the palm of fuccefs is at hand ! ■ ■'f^'^ oJ \'iib We left the principal Arabs to entertain the ftranger with'^' coffee, and toiled through the valley until half paft five o'clock, when we halted to dine. We were now joined by thofe Arabs, and prefently after by the reft of the robbers, who had made an aftonifliing march to overtake us. This flage was fix hours, or- - fifteen miles. After a light refrelhment of bread, we moved on at feven with the moon, which was now at full, and afforded us .a clear light to march over an hilly region until twelve o'clock, when we fpread our beds under a bank, to fnatch a /hort repofe. The Arabs tell us we muft be ffirring before day-break, which/ 'J added [ 32? ] added to our march to-day, pronounces them to be anxious to finifli our toilfome journey. This place is but a fliort diflance from the river. The laft ftage was five hours, or twelve miles, and by our reckoning, we are now 308 miles from Ghinnah.. Our courfe to-day has been N. W. and W. THURSDAY, i8th September. - We were roufed before four o'clock this morning, that v^t might get early to the town where we are to take boat. With- out our ufual allowance of coffee, we marched ofFdireflly for the river, to water our camels. The camel is as ready to drink often as any other animal, not with (landing the large quantity of liquid which his llomach can contain. He is the only animal, who ruminates — if I may fo term it— his drink as he journeys along; and is no more opprefled by it, than is the ox with his cud, which he chews at his ieifure. We did not lofe much time at the river, which we were overjoyed to review. Hence Vve di- r€<5led our march to the northward, along the banks of the moft delightful river in the world. By the late floods it is, in fome parts, double its original breadth, and ruflies with a noify rapi- dity to the main. The defart here flretches itfelf to the very banks, which appear infinitely more verdant by the comparifon. In our way we pafTed by a village to our left, called Vel Hadie,: and at feven o'clock halted at the town of Ifcour, where we ex- pe6ted to find a boat. But our expe£lations were vain; although Hadgee Uttalah went himfclf to the houfe of the principal of-' ficer, to obtain an order for one. While we remained here, I afcended an eminence without the town, and was prefented with the moft romantic profpeft that imagination can portray.. The Nile had now furrounded a long flip of land, which appeared to be in the midft of his ftreamj and difpfayed a. bed of diverfified 9 green. I 3^8 ] green. A large wood towered its head on this ifland, and alto- gether formed a ftriking contraft to the rufiet mountains, which overlook his weftern fliores. About a mile from this charming retreat, buried in tlie defart from common obfervation, the rob- bers have their refidence. They attended us thus far, and then returned to their tents, which they had pointed out to us on the road, as the dwellings of their families. Their departure was fecret, or as we call it, was a French leave. Hadgee Uttalah Infinuates, that their captain took this ftep, in order to fliew his difintereftednefs, and to fave us the pain of being obliged to dif- mifs him, without a prcfent. If this infinuation be Jull — and we have no reafon to doubt it — there was a raodefty in this procedure, which would have done credit to a man of the moft liberal educa- tion. Indeed, the whole behavior of thele robbers has been fo extraordinary, and the adventure itfelf is of fo novel a caft, tliat the reader would fcarcely excufe me for parting with them, with- out making fome obfervations on the fubjecl. Of all the different tribes of Arabians which we have met with, thefe tenants of the defart alone, have afforded us un- queftionable proofs of generofity and honor. We had fought for thefe virtues in the courts of princes, and found them in the uncultivated waffe. Here no prejudices are harbored, no vain diftini^lions of religion give rife to defpicable perfecutions. If the fword be drawn, .it is never wanton in its execution, and ftill refpedls the laws of fiiendihip and faith. Like the favage in- mates of the wild, thefe robbers rove through habit, arid are only rapacious when urged by flrong necefiity. Man is their foe, more than they are the foe of man. But to thefe robbers alone this refle6lion will, perhaps, hold. Baniflied without caufe from fociety, by the remiffnefs of the laws, and influenced by education to think lightly of their trefpaffes, whyfhould we raaivel to hear of people in this profeflion, "whofe morals and 5 manners [ 329 ] manners would not difgrace a city ? This position is at leaH: evi- dent. — By the ftrifl connexion between them, and the frequent trial to which their fidelity is put, they have formed a charafler among themfelves, which is unknown to the reft of their coun- trymen. A charafter, which has excited this involuntary tri- bute of praife from a ftranger; and which is, indeed, wort'ny of a better fate ! The laft ftage was three hours, or feven miles. At ten o'clock we left Ifcour, and profecuted our journey along the banks of the Nile. We met with no villages for fome miles. At one o'clock we faw the pyramids very diftin<5lly, lying to the weft- ward of the river. Thefe we had obferved from Ifcour, though forty miles diftant from them ; but from their magnitude, con- ceived them to have been hills of ftone. Wc now were afcer- tained of our approach to Cairo ; and on my aiking our con- duftor the ufe of thofe ftruflures, he told us fo many fables of their origin and riches, as afforded us ample entertainment on the road. Not that the dreams of fuperftition withdrew our attention, from the reality of the vifion which delighted our eyes. We were ftruck with awe, in contemplating thefe amazing mo- numents of antiquity. Every thing confpired to touch the tra- veller's mind with the fublimeft ideas. The rude grandeur of iJie ftupendous mountains behind the pyramids i the aftonifhing height of the pyramids themfelves, which appear to rival the works of nature ; the breadth and rapidity of the river which runs beneath them, fo renowned in fong, and fo fertile of un- common productions, united to raife a pi6lure worthy of a Brooke's * pencil to defcribe. Nor did I confider an herd of c'a- mels, that were browfing on our fide of the river, as a finall addition to the magnificence of the profpe6l, which was com- pofed of the moft gigantic obie6ts in nature ! In this. raarcJi '"* An eminent' pointer of Ireland, -whofe talents in his profeflion proniifc to illu- .'?nifl« the riling glory of his country. U u two E 33° ] two of our camels were fo far jaded, as to reduce us to diftribute what little burdens remained to them among the reft, and to leave them at a village on the road. It was now, that we acknowledged the prudence of bringing the additional camels. We no longer afcribed the meafure to any felfifli views j and wholly acquitted the Arabs of a defign to deceive us ; as the dif- ficulties in this mountainous journey were fufficient to break the heart of a camel itfelf. At five in the evening, we arrived at Tinnah, a town almoft oppofite the pyramids, where we pre- fently procured a boat to carry us to Cairo, which is but twelve miles diftant. The laft ftage was (even hours, or eighteen miles ;. fo that our journey over the defart, from Ghinnah to this place, has been, by our reckoning, 333 miles. Tinnah is a faiall but pleafant town-, and ftands upon the re- puted fite of antient Babylon, There are no veftiges, however, of that fplendid city ; nor any ruins here fave thofe of modern edi- fices. The houfes are prettily fliaded with trees, and the envi^ rohs laid out in fields of grain. It is eafy to account for the exr- tinclion of antient ruins in a peopled place; but how are we to explain this extinction in a defart, except we recur to the hurri- canes of fand in which they may be buried, or rather doubt their exiftence at once ? Wc met with many fpots in the. defart, fit enough for cultivation ; but not a ruin of any kind, to denote the habitations of men. It is probable, therefore, tliat the geo- graphers of old wrote without adequate information on the fub- jedl ; and have given cities and tribes to a wafte, which has been defolate fince the creation of the world*. While we fupped upon our remaining rice, we were fur- rounded with crouds of people, who beheld us with curiofity, and learnt our adventures from the Arabs with furprize. At nine '') Juodji bvn , * They have even exceeded thofe whom Swift ridicules — " Who o'er unhabitable downs. Place elephants for want of towns." ft ^331 ] iiinfe'o'dbcK we jbyfully eimbarked for Cairo. Befides ouifelvcs -and our domeftics, Hadgee' Uttalah and the camel-owners ac- companied us in the boat. By them we promifed to gratify the drivers, who were forry enough to leave us. The moon was juft rifen, and without fail or oar, we fell down brilkly with the cut"^ rent. Every thing wore a placid afpcft, and feemed ominous of the ftate of the capital. We pafled by many villages, which ap- peared very picfurefque by the pale light of the moon, and at midnight anchored on the weftern bank oppofite Cairo, to take a fhort repofe. T FRIDAY, 19th September. ^ About two this morning we weighed, and ftood into the khalis or channel, which runs from the river into the city. This chan- nel is of aeon fider able breadth, and was lined on each fide with trading ved'els and pleafure-boats ; which difplaycd convincing tokens of the commerce and wealth of the capital of Egypt. The •fl-rength of the current is here encreafed, and the boatmen exerted no little Ikill in fleering through the grove of mafts, which rofe like a wood around us. The Ihores on either hand of us, were adorned with gardens and fummer-houfes ; the de7/s which fell thickly upon our heads, v/ere impregnated v^/ith the fragrance of the.pail> ing gale, which " whifpered whence it Hole the balmy fjioili;" Our minds were now divefted of the perturbation which' -^liad So long poifeffsd them, and were fitted to admit the. charmisvg fcei>c. It feemed to be the efFe6l of fuch enchantment, as Arniida i^ i'aid, to have exhibited to regain the affections of her lover. Erewhile we wandered, like Rinaldo, through gloomy vales and dreary w^fies : And now, are fuddenly tranfported to the elyfium he found — to {lately palaces and vernal lands. We went under the flern of a Turkifh frigate, which was galley-built and carried about tvyenty U u 2 bra[s [ 332 ] brafs guns. She was probably ftationed here, to proteil the chan- Jiel during the late troubles ; but from the bad look-out which the Turkifli lailors keep, it would be no difficult matter for an enemy to have furprized hei" in the night. At three o'clock we arrived at Old Cairo, and after dreffing ourfclves in our bell Turkifli cloaths, we landed our baggage on the wharf, and difcharsed our boat. We were to remain here until day-break, and my companions and I diverted ourfelves in exa- mining the place. In ftraying about, I came to a garden fur- rounded by a lofty wall. On one fide of it there v^'as a latticed window, which appeared to give light to a bower, as the lattices were entwined with a fpreading vine, whofe grapes hung in cluf- ters without. As I was admiring the fruit by the doubtful light of the moon, the found of a guittar fuddenly flruck my ears.^jltii iffued from the window, and was at times accompanied by a female voice. I was too far removed from the performer, to reap the ex- cellence of her fkill ; but the novelty of the adventure, and the plaintivenefs of the tune, kept me fixed, as it were, to the fpot. The window was infinitely too high to be fcaled without a ladder, or my curiofity to behold a damfel, whom my imagination had pictured out in all the graces of beauty and youth, might have led me into a fcrape. 1 was now called away by the Arabs to der- part. They prelfed us much to fend for afies, a fland of which , was in the neighborhood, as we fliould find ourfelves much tired by the walk to the Englifli factory. Our pride \/as ftartled at this propofition ; and v/e perfiiled in our refolution to go on foot, t® the great aftonifhment of the Arabs, who made no allowance for our ignorance of the cuftoms here. We fet out accordingly at dawn of day, and left all our fervants but Ibrahim, to ftay by the baggage, until we fent camels for it. We found tlie road none of the bell, and after going for near a mile, along a dead wall that ikirts the channel we had come up, we entered the new city at a little [ 333 ] little paft fix o'clock. The ftreets began now to be filled with people, and the fliops difplayed their various commodities for fale. The favor of the hot bread had fuch an effe6i: upon our noftrils, that fhame alone deterred us from Hopping in the ftreet, to break our fafts with fuch a new and delicious morfel. In fpite of our dif- guife, we were immediately known to be foreigners ; and the croud repeatedly exprefied tokens of furprize, which our Arabs told us, arofe from feeing us on foot. To obviate this impertinence, we enquired if we could not proceed by water. A canal was near us, and the Arabs called to the rowers of a gay-looking barge, which took us on board. We were now fheltered from the fun, which was waxing warm, and were llioved along at an eafy rate, between the rows of lofty buildings that face the canal. Behind the lattices on either fide we difcovered women, in the Greek and Turkifli habits ; and one in particular, of uncommon beauty, who came to the window to tafte of the morning air. Before fe- ven o'clock we landed in a line with a quarter, called the Fils Mcojky, where the feveral European faftories are fituated, and in^'. few minutes reachedMr. Baldwin's houfe, of whom fuch frequent mention has been made in this work. Though a perfeft llranger to our perfons, we were received with great cordiality by this gentle- man. Notwithftanding the many letters which we had addreffed to him, our llory was only communicated to him yefterday, and that by the Indian Fakter, who delivered our letter fafely, after a thoufand difficulties. He was forty-five days on his paflage ; had been taken prifoner repeatedly, by each of the contending parties';' and efcaped detention, on account of his poverty and vocation. We were glad to find this faithful fellow had received his pr(!)- niifed reward, and wifhed to repeat our thanks to him. Mr. Baldwin now congratulated us on our arrival, which he utterly defpaired of, as foon as he learnt our condition. He was fo confiderate as to apply lail night to the bey of Cairo, for a letter tb 9 the - y [ 134 ] the Shaik Ul Arab for our releafe j and to order one of his fer- vants to get ready to carry the letter. He had taken thefeprehmi- nary fteps ; but owned that he was doubtful of then* fuccefs, when he confidered our remote fituation, and the troubles which agi- tated the country. He was equally charmed with ourfelves, with the behavior of Ifman Abu Ally ; and propofes to acknowledge it, in the name of the king and the people of Great Britain. This he fignified to Hadgee Uttalah and his companions in the Ara- bian laiiguage, which he fpeaks very fluently ; and defued them . to call for our letters and prefents, when they had finiflied their bufmefs in this city. Now we bade adieu to all anxiety and care. Our troubles ap- peared to be at an end, and we were only ftudious to confole our- felves for the lofs of fociety, which we had fo long endured. Peace was reftored to Cairo j and the operations of war removed to the parts we had come fromj whither Ibrahim Beg and the fugitive Beys were fled. To recover oiufelves from the fatigues of our journey, to infpedl the curiofities of this city, and to pre- pare for our progrefs to Alexandria, are the points to which our attention is turned. We obtained from the public papers, the moft fatisfaclory accounts of our concerns in England ; and no- thing occurred to damp the happinefs of this day, which I may venture to fay, was the fmcereft we had ever experienced. We difpatched camels for our baggage, and in the evening accompa- nied Mr. Baldwin to a French merchant's houfe; where we found a great deal of company aflembled to play at cards. Among them was a very agreeable girl, of Greek extra6lion by the mother's fide. Her father is a Frenchman, and now at Marfeilles j which has enabled the young lady to obtain a per- ftfl knowledge of the i rcnch tongue, and to render h-erfelf very entertaining to travellers who pafs this way. Though her drefs is confonant to the Turkifli mode, it by no means dif- ligures [ 335 ] figures her perfon ; but has rather fomething pleafmg in its no- velty, to the eyes of an European. One of my companions ap- pears to be but too fenfible of the charms of the fair Cecilia ; and I am told, that this is not the firft conqueft flie has made over the afFeiflions of Englifh paffengers. The Europeans who refide here, all conform to the Tuikifh habit; but this is not expe6led from fojourners like us. As our Eaftern cloaths therefore are much the worfe for wear, we intend to-morrow to refume our own drefs, except at fuch times as we vifit places where it may give offence. The Englifli nation alone, take this liberty with impunity. And I was let into an anecdote of a friend and coun- tryman of mine, who went to the houfe of the bey here in a fhaul turban. This is flriftly prohibited to Chriftians of all denomina- tions ; but was neverthelefs overlooked in him, becaufe he was an Englifhman. SATURDAY, 20th September. .. We flaid within doors to-day, to amufe ourfelves with the new publications from England, and to fettle our voyage to France. There is a French fliip at Alexandria, which is to fail the begin- ning of next month for Marfeilles ; and Mr. Baldwin has applied to her agent here for a paflage for us. He intends fending dif- patches for the Company in this veflel, and will be better afcertain-: ed of the precife time of her departure. Mifir Ul Kaira, or the City of Anguifli, fo called from the fre- quent vifits which it has received from the plague, but commonly termed Grand Cairo by us, is fituated in the latitude of 30° 3 ' N. on an artificial branch of the Nile. Old Cairo nearly faces the river; but the New city is removed above a mile from it, and ap- proaches to the range of mountains which runs through Upper Egypt, and abruptly breaks off here. It is undoubtedly one of 7 the [ 336 ] the finefl: cities in the Eaft ; which, from the prefent ftile of archl- teflure that reigns among the Orientals, is but a faint commen- dation. The houfes are in general built of ftone, and, being ele- vated to feveral ftories, would make a grand appearance, notwith- flandlng the inelegance of their flru6lure, were not the efFed de- jftroyed by the excefTive narrownefs of the flreets. This is one of the caufes to which the ingenious Dr. Mead afcribes the birth of the plague in this capital ; but experience evinces, that it arifes from foreign and adventitious caufes. There has not been a plague here for thefe feven years; which is rendered more remarkable, by the commencement of the Ruflian war at the date of its cefTa- tion. No one can account for this ; though a year feldom paff- ed by before, without a vifit from it. I do not recoiled: if any writer has taken notice of a circumftance, that diverts this fell de- Ilroyer of a confiderable portion of his terrors in this quarter of the world, and opens an ample lield for philofophical fpeculation. The melancholy confequences of the plague are well known to us. The laws have been alarmed at its very name j and our ports have been fo regulated, as wholly to exclude it. The gay metropolis of London was formerly depopulated by it ; and, in our own age, we have feen the flouiifliing city of Marfeilles rendered a defart by its ravages. From fcenes within the fphere of his knowledge, an ele- gant and fentimental poet of our nation thus feelingly defcribes its baleful influence : ** The fuUen door. Yet uninfe6led, on its cautious hinge Fearing to turn, abhors fociety : Dependants, friends, relations. Love himfelf. Savaged by Woe, forget the tender tie. The fweet engagement of the feeling heart." jr. This [ 337 ] ".f^T ft; This picture is juilr, fo far as it relates to this malady in Europe. But in Turkey the cafe is altered ; and we look in vain for thefe ftrokes of the pathetic. The Mahometans are confirmed Predef- tinarians ; and are not to be deterred by the fear of contagion, from attending their brethren in diftrefs. The millakes of the head here expand the heart with the tide of humanity. The dying have their exit fmoothed by the tender offices of friendfiiip j and thoufands are fnatched from an untimely grave, by the force of an happy prejudice. It is true, that many are plunged into this diflemper, who might otherwife have avoided it; but the evil is far outweighed by the good which refults from it. For the diftemper is by no means fatal. With care and attention, the greater part of the infe£led generally recover. I have myfelf feen a man here, who has had the plague no lefs than five times ; each of which is diftinguiOied by blotches upon different parts of his body, which he will carry with him to his tomb. One of the mofl noted things here, is an aquedudt which con- veys water from the Nile to the caftle, that ftands on an hill in the eaft quarter of the city. This aquedudt runs a very confi- derable length. We faw it as we came from Old Cairo, and were told that its courfe is two miles. It is built of flone, and lined on each fide with lofty gothic arches, which give it a very noble appearance. It is however a modern work ; and cannot be clafTed among the antiquities of Egypt. Thefe we are to begin upon, as foon as our bodies are reftored to their former vigor. But the pyramids and the catacombs are too diflant for our mi- nute infpeftion -, and we can only regret, that our time admits of our taking but a pafling view of them. Travellers like us, who fall by accident into a country replete with the monuments ofpafl ages, and whofe time is not at their own difpofal, to gratify the defire of invefligating the remains of decayed art, can only fkim X X the t 338 1 the furface of the ftream they would willingly dive into ; and have but the merit of an inclination to extend information. The late changes which happened here, are confidered of little or no moment among the inhabitants. The depoiing of a bey is attended with no tumult or bloodfhcd within the walls ; where not only the natives but the European faftors, are protefted from violence by remaining within doors. Though no greater revo- lution could have taken place in any government, the whole con- teft fubfifted without the gates : and during an obftinate battle at Bulac for the fovereignty, nothing but order and tranquillity reigned in Cairo. This idea is carried further here than in any other empire. And fo facred do the Turks hold the privilege of a man's houfe, that fcarce an inftance can be produced among them, of private property being plundered in any revolution in the ftate. A proof of this was recently difplayed. The fugitive beys were, for feveral days, in poffeffion of the caftle which com- mands the city. When they found it expedient to quit their poft, they retired with their troops through the ftreets, and enforced a difcipline, that preferved the city from the leaft outrage. Nor difappointed ambition, nor grievous neceffity, could influence them to injure a people, who were devoted to a fuccefsful rival, or replenifh their finances, by a mode fo repugnant to their cuf- toms. Be it known to the Chriftian' leaders of war, that thefe infidels were baniflied their capital — yet voluntarily left it in the enjoyment of that profperity, to which they were loft 1 In the evening we went to the hum^mum, to refrefh ourfelves after our journey. We found it an handfome ftone fabric, crowned with a large dome, through which the light is admitted to a fquare apartment below. In this apartment the company af- femble, to undrefs themfelves for the bath ; and here they return, to fmoak and drink coffee after the operation ; for which pur- pofe the hall is furrounded with alcoves. There are fmall reccfles 5 on [ 339 J on every fide of the hall, which contain cocks or fountains of hot and cold water, to temperate the bath, agreeably to the inclina- tions of every one. The floor is paved with a diverfity of colored marbles, and adds much to the elegance of thefe receptacles of luxury. The ceremony is pretty nearly the fame as in other parts of Turkey ; and having been often defcribed, there is no need of a repetition here. I will juft add, that the cuftom is not only cleanly, but healthy to the laft degree j and it is merely the im- moderate ufe of it that prevails here, which can occafion its being condemned by the praftitioners of phyfic. SUNDAY, 2ift September. We were introduced to an * Engli(h gentleman this morning, who is in the fervice of the bey. He commands the artillery, and was on the expedition to Syria, in the year 1774, when Maho- met Beg took the cities of Acra and Joppa. During the late dif- putes he was ftationed in Cairo, and retired with the depofed beys into the caftle. But this was only to fave appearances with the beys, in whofe power he was. His heart inclined to Ifmaul Beg ; whom he joined on the retreat of his adverfaries. From this officer, as well as Mr. Baldwin, I gained the particulars of the late revolution. It was quickly conceived, and as quickly executed j and appears to have been the refult of no great in- trigues or difficulties. Simple and uninterefling as the event may be held by the fubjeds of more liable governments, the relation of it may give rife to refledlions not unufeful, to com- parilons not unfavorable to the reader. At the death of Mahomet Beg the reins of power devolved to X X 2 the . * This is more than fufpefted to be an unfortnnate charader, who was obliged to quit his native country fome years ago, on the imputation of a crime of a dark hue. [ 340 ] the hands of four principal beys. Ibrahim Beg, Morad Beg, Muftapha Beg, and Ifmaul Beg, were copartners In the empire of Egypt. The bafhaw, who is fent here by the Porte, has no real influence in the councils. He has not even a voice in affairs of ftatej which he is content to leave to the manage- ment of the beys, on condition of being paid the tribute which the Porte exa6ls. Nay, the beys have fometimes car- ried matters to fo high a pitch, that there is an inftance of Mahomet Beg's refufing to fubmit to this tax, and denying the fuperiority of the Porte. The fiucruating (late of the Turidfh go- vernment, and the war in which it was then involved, prevented its refenting the infult. But weak as its arms may be, there is no doubt of the ftrength of its politics in this quarter. This revo- lution was certainly countenanced by the bafhaw ; and to him Ifmaul Beg is partly indebted for his fuccefs, in expelling his brethren from an adminiflration, in which they had pra6lifed every fpecies of fraud and oppreffion. The contefl fuddenly commenced about the end of lafl July. Ifmaul Beg marched a body of troops which he had fecretly col- lected, without the gates of Cairo ; and fent a formal challenge to his brother beys, to go out, and decide their differences in a pitched battle. There was fomething fo gallant and open in this proceeding of Ifmaul Beg, and his character was fo far preferable to that of his competitors, that he foon found himfelf at the head of a greater number of partizans, than the allied beys could bring into the field. They met him, however, with appa- rent refolution, at the appointed place -, and the two armies ap- proached near enough together, for the commanders to revile each other for their condufl, in the mofl opprobrious terms. If- maul Beg firft gave the order for the charge, which was executed f fword in hand, thougli there were boats full of artillery, belong- ing to each party, at hand, and the troops themfi^lves were fur- niflied [ 341 J nifhed with fire-arms. But a thhft of revenge, and an eagernefs for blood, which mark the afpe6t of a civil war, hurried them beyond refledion ; and tempted the combatants to truft, as they did of old, to the ftrength of their limbs. The conflifl was (harp and bloody ; but was determined in about a quarter of an hour, in favor of Ifmaul Beg, who drove his opponents back into the city. Muftapha Beg fled immediately to Upper Egypt ; but Ibra- him Beg, and Morad Beg, took refuge in the caftle, which they declared they would defend to the laft extremity. Their fituation was ftrong, and matters for fome days had a promifmg appearance. They maintained a correfpondcnce in the city, and flattered themfelves with fpeedy relief from Mulf apha Beg. But this dawn of hope was quickly overcafl:. Their raif- condu(St compleated what their misfortune began. Jealoufies arofe between the chiefs, and entailed a fudden defedion among their adherents. In fliort, they found their numbers fo decreafed, that they judged themfelves unfafe in their pofl:, and contrived the means of efcape. They retreated at midnight to the Nile, where they embarked unmolefted for Jirje, on boats that had been prepared for them. This efcape was accomphflied, as fome think, by the connivance of Ifmaul Beg himfelf, who was glad, at any rate, to be rid of th& prefence of his rivals. But he had foon reafon to repent of this flep. In the courfe of a week, he found the fugitive beys were at the head of a confiderable body of men, which they had raifed upon the river. This force was fl:rengthened by a fleet of gal lies, under the command of Muftapha Beg. To crufh this danger in its infancy, Ifmaul Beg fent up a large armament to engage them ; and had the mortification to fee it return, vanquiflied and difperfed. The tide was now turned, and fuccefs feemed to de- fert the banners of the viftor. Flufhed with this critical advan- tage, Ibrahim Beg hotly purfued the troops of his adverfary; and thou^h-L [ 342 ] thought of nothing, but re-entering the capital in triumph. -Terror preceded his fteps, and Egypt prepared herfelf to fubniit again to his yoke. In this eventful moment, Ifmaul Beg march- ed without the walls of the city, and, with the concurrence of the bafliaw, who has the charge of it, fet up the ftandard of the Pro- phet ; which is only difplayed in times of extreme danger, and in- vites all true Muffulmen to draw their fwords in its defence. This manoeuvre exceeded his moft fanguine expeflations. He recruited his army, and revived the fpirits of the foldiers to fuch a degree, that, advancing to meet Ibrahim about the middle of Auguft, he totally defeated him, after an obftinate encounter. Ibrahim Beg is faid to have fought very gallantly on this day j and not to have quitted the field, until he had two horfes killed under him. He fled with precipitation up the Nile, while the remains of his troops fubmitted to the conqueror, and has now joined Morad Beg and Muftapha Beg, as I have before mentioned, daring our refidence at Ghinnah. He was lately followed by confiderable detachments from hence, which it is expefted will compel the unfortunate chiefs to feek for refuge in another country. On his return to Cairo, Ifmaul Beg was univerfally acknow- ledged as the reigning bey, and his title recognized by the Porte. This is a circumftance very agreeable to Mr. Baldwin, and the European merchants fettled here, who were much opprelTed by Ibrahim Beg, and find a fenfible difference in the deportment and -difpofition of his fucceflbr. He is an encourager of commerce, and difplays a partiality for the Englifli, whofe recent attempts to reftore the navigation of the Red-fea have excited his admiration and efteem. The few executions which have taken place fince his acceffion to power, denote his humanity, and exhibit a con- .du6t which wholly deviates from the general line of Mahometan politics. In [ 343 ] In the evening we accompanied Mr. Baldwin to the houfe of a Greek lady, who is married to a Frenchman. She is a native of Scio, and, though the mother of feveral children, ftill does credit to the accounts of the beauties of that ifland. She has a daughter about feventeen, in whom are renewed the charms of the parent. Indeed there is no doubt but the Turks polTefs the fineft women in the world, whom their vicinity to Greece gives them an oppor- tunity of procuring. The brother of this damfel is likely to go in the fame fliip with us to Marfeilles, where they have a fifter married : in which cafe, the fair Vidtoria has given him an unfailing recommendation to our notice. MONDAY, 22d September. We fallied forth this morning in company with the comman- dant of the artillery, who is kind enough to be our guide in vi- fiting the curiofities of Cairo. As no Chriftian, without the fan6lion of the bey, is allowed to ride an horfe here, we were con- tent to mount that humble animal, the afs, in order to be con- veyed to the places which we propofed to examine. To obtain that fanftion, the fon of a nobleman of the firft rank and family in England, is fuppofed to have made confiderable prefents to the bey, when he paffed through this city fome years ago. But the confequence was, to prote6l him from the infults of the po- pulace, there was a guard obliged to be placed about his horfe, when he ftirred abroad. The diftinflion, therefore, was dearly purchafed, on every account. Every thing grows familiar by habit ; and Europeans think no more of beftriding an afs here, than they would of popping into an hackney-coach in Paris or London. It is the common mode of conveyance, and afles are to be found in every ftreet, for the accommodation of gentlemen who are afliamed to be feen on foot. We were not in this fecret on [ 344 ] on the morning of our arrival here, or we would not have fhunned a feeming indignity to incur a profefled one. We pufhed on our beafls through a number of extenfive ftreets, in our way to the caftle, which ftands upon a folid rock nearly in the center of the city. The ftreets are univerfally narrow, and fo crouded with people, that we experienced no Httle difficulty in getting along. But this difficulty was balanced by the coolnefs which reigns in them. The narrow palTage draws a conftant fup- ply of air ; and the height of the houfes affiards a Ihade at noon to the paflengers below. We were immediately fenlible of our ap- proach to the caftle. The ground rifes pretty gradually, until we got towards the top of the hill. Here it breaks off" into an abrupt fteep, and we difmovmted and left our afles with their owners, before we entered one of the pofterns of the caftle. The fortifications of tliis place are in a difmantled ftate, though the elevation of the hill is a fafficient ftrength to people determined to defend themfelves. We pafTed through many ftreets, which are inhabited by the domeftics and dependants of the baftiaw, who ufually takes up his quarters in this fortrefs. We directed our fteps to a building, which is reputed to be the hall where Jo- feph gave audience to his brethren, when they came to purchafe corn in Egypt. This hall is the only remaining part of a large and magnificent edifice ; the ruins of which befpeak the wealth and grandeur of its founder. The hall is a fquare of about fixty feet, the roof of which was a dome, that was fupported by a double row of granite pillars. The dome is fallen in; but the pillars pronounce its former loftinefs and magnitude. They are •each of a fingleftone, thirty feet high, and about twenty-fix inches diameter. There is a cornice of ftone above them, which is in- fcribed with letters of gold, in fo obfolete a language, that we are told no one is able to read them. We E 345 } We went from hence to the council-chamber, where the bafhaw and the beys meet, to deUberate on public affairs. The apart- ment is of a vaft length, and ornamented with relics of mofaic work, and pillars of porphyry. At the upper end there is a fe- ci uded feat for the bafhaw, furrounded with green lattices. Here he takes his poll in all the vanity of ftate, and has the mortifica- tion of being privy to councils, in which he not only has no fliare, but which frequently operate againft his interefl. There is a rope ftill depending from a beam in this apartment, on which, it is faid, a bey was once hung, during feme tumultuous difputes at the council-board. There is nothing improbable in this ftory. But it is not fo eafy to account, for their permitting this dif- graceful inflrument of violence to remain in fo confpicuous a place. In an adjacent building they Ihewed us fome arms of great antiquity. Among thofe moft worthy of note, are fome Roman battle-axes, 4nd a bow of fuch thicknefs and length, as would require the ftrengtli of a Patagonian to draw. We were now conduiSted to Jofeph's well. This is another work which bears the name of that Patriarch, and is, indeed, an aftonifhing monument of labor. It is fo deep, that a number of oxen are conftantly employed, in raifing water for the accommo- dation of the garrifon. There is a team above to raife the water from a chamber below, fixty feet from the furface of the earth. To this chamber you defcend, by a flight of fteps cut out of the folid rock ; and here you find a fecond team of oxen to draw the water to that level. The authenticity, however, of thefe works, which boaft of fo early an origin, has been much doubted by late travellers. It would be prefumption in us to give adecifion from a curfory view, on a matter which would require a difpaifionate inveftigation. Before we quitted the caftle, we aicended a mount of earth, from whence we had an uninterrupted view of the Q^ty. It appears from hence not half fo large as London Y y does [ 346 ] does from the top of St. Paul's ; but the extent of the Nile, which has fpread itfelf into a lake, as far as the eye can reach; the clufter of iflands which crown the fdver expanfe ; and the majefty of the mountains which bound the fmiling fcene, give a noble variety to the profpe6l, which London, with all its opvdence and grandeur, cannot afford. We went out of the caftle through the principal gate, which faces the great market- place. As we defcended to it, we paffed between the houfes, where the fugitive beys remained, when they fliut themfelves up in the caftle. We found our affes at the gate, where thay had been brought by the direction of our conduftor. On our return home we made a circuit of the city, and had an opportunity of being ap- prized of our want of confequence in this place. We met with one of the meffengers of death, who delivers the fatal mandate to the fubje6l, who has become obnoxious to the bey. He is an officer of the firft rank, and is diftinguifhed by a cap like a fugar- loaf,. at the fight of which every Chriftian is obliged to difmount his afs *. We followed the example of our conduftor -, and as we alighted near the palace of Morad Beg, he took us in to fee it. We entered a fpacious court-yard, and found a fquare building- with four handfome faces ; but could not get in to fee it, on account of the female fide being inhabited. The women of the bey ftill refide here, although he will probably be in exile all his life. '■ But fuch refpe6l do the Turks pay to the charadlers of women, that there is no danger of their being molefted ei-' ther in perfon or property, however adlive the pare their rela- tions, or even hufbands, may take in a time of trouble. We had' a teftimony of this refpecl as we left the bey's palace. No lefs than thirtywomen were returning to it, mounted on mules,' 'and attended by a guard of eunuchs. They were vailed from head * 'TThe cliiaux of the Janifarics likewife cxait this compliment from Chriftians. 2 tq [ 347 ] to foot, and we are told, that no lefs a punifhment than death would be the portion of any ;one, who would prefume to remove that curtain. We arrived at Mr. Baldwin's about noon, very well pleafed with our morning's excurfion, and not at all diflatif- lied with the fpirit and paces of our affes. In the evening we walked with Mr. Baldwin in a garden be- longing to fome Francifcan friars. It is neatly laid out in walks, and is an evening rendezvous for the Europeans of this city. We were here joined by a French nobleman, who is faid to be binder a temporary banilhment from the court of France. He is a man of polite addrefs, and pafTes for a proficient in the polite arts. We had a very agreeable fpecimen of his Ikill in niufic, as we adjourned to the French fadlory, to be prefent at a concert in which he led the firft violin, with uncommon tafte and execu- tion. Mr. Baldwin bears a part at thefe little meetings, which are an admirable relief to a mind engaged in bufinefs. SATURDAY, 23d September. •. Our departure is fixed for to-morrow evening, fo that our ftay m this capital will be but fhort. We would wiUingly have de- dicated another week to fo celebrated a fcene ; but our buiinefs interferes with our pleafures. It is with double regret that we now look back to the time which we loft at Ghinnah, and which might have been fo profitably fpent in the city and environs of Cairo. Our Arabs came this day to take leave of us. As foon as we could obtain money for our bills on London, we had difcharged our notes of hand to Hadgee Uttalah, and given him thff'pro- mifed drefs, befides a gratuity to himfelf and to all the camel- people according to their rank, for their care and honefty in bringing us fafely here. We (hould not have omitted the cap- Y y 2 tain [ 348 ] tain of the robbers, among the number of thofe who demanded our acknowledgments, could we have promifed ourfelves the certainty of any token of ours reaching his hand. But our principal concern was to fhew our gratitude to the Shaik Ul 'Arab, to whofe friendfliip we owed more than we could pof- fibly repay. We could not err in fuppofing, that a proof of our remembrance would make a greater impreffion at fuch a diftance, however trivial it might be, than a valuable confideration would ( have done at Ghinnah. He there had it in his power to reject ' our offerings ; but ere this came to his poffeflion we fhould have quitted the country. We could only confult the genius of the people, to render a flight prefent acceptable ; though we did our venerable friend the juftice to believe, that the intention of the prefent would be its chief recommendation in his eyes. A Tur- key carpet for the ufe of his feraglio, and a piece of purple broad cloth with fattin facings, for a veft for himfelf, were what we c put up on this occafion. To thefe Mr. Baldwin added fomejars '- of French fruits and Italian fweetmeats, and other rarities of this \ kind, which he judged would be agreeable to the ladies, of the : feraglio. We delivered thefe things into the charge of Hadgee Uttalah, with a complimentary letter from Mr. Baldwin, and an- 1 other from ourfelves. Mr. Baldwin's letter was conceived in general terms. He fpoke of the generofity, with which the r; Ihaik had behaved towards fome of the fubjedls of the king of z'- Great Britain, and he extolled the merit of the aftion. He J thanked him, in the king's name, for this inftance of his good- will, and begged leave to cultivate the correfpondence which had fo accidentally arifen between them. A correfpondence, he added, which- had commenced in a manner fo much to the honour of the fhaik, and which could not fail to extend his reputation to "i the remoteft corners of the Britilh dominions. Our letter, per- haps/was lefs courtly, though not lefs fmcere. We recapitulated ■ .. > r aizii the. [ 349 ] •the favors which we had received from the fha'k. We hhited at the defperate fituation in which his vigilance had difcovered us, and compared it with our prefent happy circumftances. The change we afcribed entirely to his humanity. We lamented our inability to tranfmit him a more liberal token of our gratitude, and en- treated him to confider the tender which we had prefumed to make, with his wonted candor and benevolence. Finally, we acknow- ledged the fidelity of the camel-drivers, who had enabled us to comply with his laft injunftions, and to call the world to witnefs, that our high fenfe of his favors would only ceafe to exift with our lives. Thefe letters were rendered into Arabic by Mr. Baldwin's inter- preter. Sufficient praife cannot be given to that gentleman for the intereft which he took in this affair. Our tribute, fuch as it was, has alrdady been paid him. It remains only for his employers to do juftice to the fpirit with which he fupported their credit, and that of the Englilh nation. At parting he prefented Hadgee Uttalah with a pipe of fome value ; and we had the pleafure to fee .him and his companions depart, not lefsfatisfied with our bounty towards themfelves, than furprized at our remembrance of their abfent mailer. It may not, perhaps, be thought impertinent to remark, that ^rl the report of thefe Arabs will be of no diflervice to the Company y ■c Ihould they adopt the idea of having their packets forwarded from India, by the way of Cofire and Ghinnah. The port of Cofire is open at all feafons of the year, while that of Suez is fhut up by the northerly winds no lefs than eight months out of twelve. A fa6t which I have endeavoured to eflablifh in a former part of this work. Amid thefe agreeable tranfa^ions, we encountered one 'of a dif- ferent nature. After the repeated inftances which Abdul RufTar fo iiad afforded us of his honefty, it appeared that there were ino- ?.^- ments in which he was not proof to temptation. Ibrahim, ever 3 - indolent [ 35° ] •indolent and fimple, had from time to time lent this fellow mo- ney, and fmce our arrival at Cairo the fum was confiderablyin- creafed. It was but yefterday noon that we paid up Abdul Ruf^ far's wages, at his own requeflj and at night he decamped in Ibrahim's debt. This intelligence was juft now communicated to us, and, from fome circumftances, it is probable that he is re- turned to his native country. To diilipate Ibrahim's chagrin, in fome meafure, we took this opportunity to difcharge our obliga- tions to him. We had advanced fome money to the captain on his account, on our leaving the Adventure ;. and we now prefented him with fuch a gratuity as our finances would admit .of. His fervices were beyond the common clafs, and were not to be re- warded by any limited wages. Our good- will was only to be bounded by our ability; and he obtained from us a purfe con- taining an hundred Venetians. We could have wished, indeed, the fum had been doubled for his fake. But when it is confider- ed, that he will work his paflage to India on the fhips of next feafon, and that Mr. Baldwin has generoufly offered him his table while he remains here, the fum may be carried to his family free of all deductions, and will be no trivial addition to the for- tune of an Indian. Notwithflanding this difcharge, Ibrahim means to accompany us to Alexandria, and to fee us embark for Europe. Among ovir other recreations here, we make a daily pra6i:ice of offering incenfe to a fair idol, who lives oppofite our houfe. She is a mixture of the Greek and French, as well in her origin as her compofition, being as remarkable for vivacity and good- humour in her temper, as for fymmetry and elegance in her per- fon. This young damfel quickly found out our arrival, and, like other fmging-birds Ihut up in a cage, began to difplay her attractions the moment flie had caught our obfervation. She ap- pears at her window every morning and evening, and either awakes our attention with her guitar, or condefcends to reply to I our our addrefTes) wKicTi "a*re "breathed to her acrofs a narrow ftreet.' She has an old mother, who feems to encourage the innocent damfel in her coquetry ; and I fear would prove but a treacherous portrefs to the caftle, were fome lover, Hke Jupiter, daring enough todefcend to this Danae in a fliower of gold. There are numbers of captive nymphs in this city, who figh for liberty, and would throw themfelvcs into the arms of any European who made ho- nourable addreffes to them. Bred up in the circle of French fo- ciety, and denied the freedom which they hear the females enjoy in France, they repine at their deftiny, and would chearfully leave the manners, cuftoms, and country of Turkey behind them. As we returned from the gardens of the convent this evening, we met a gentleman near the French faflory, who is to be our fellow-paflenger to Marfeilles. It feems, that he is a man of eru- dition and tafte ; was formerly fecretary to the embafly at Rome; and is now on his return to France from a tour of Greece and Egypt. He was introduced to us by the name of Meillon, and promifes to turn out no inconfiderable acquifition to our fociety during the voyage, and the term of our quarantine at Mar- feilles. WEDNESDAY, 24th September. ^1 We have been preparing ourfelves this morning to take leave of this great city. Our ftay has not been equal to our curiofity, but perfe6lly fuitable to our defigns, which are to get to England with all poilible expedition. The packets with which we are charged have doubtlefs reached London before us by duplicates ; but v/e have private as well as public concerns ; and it is time for us to undeceive our friends, and to remove their apprehenfions for our fafety. Until the arrival of Mr. Baldwin, about two years ago, the Englilh carried on no commerce .in; this- city, lie is ftill the onlv [ 352 } only merchant of our nation here, and is agent to the company for forwarding their packets to and from India. And, con- fidered in itfclf, this is a point of no little importance to that poUtical body. The advantage of quick intelligence is no fecret to a wife government. The paflage home is, indeed, as yet precarious, by the difficult na\ngation of the gulph of Suez ; but the palTage out is fure and expeditious. There is an inftance, not tvi^o months ago, of a Mr. Whitehill coming from London to Caiio in a month. He was charged with the reftoration of Lord Pigot to the government of Fort St. George; and it is fup- pofed will get to that place in the fame period. A voyage, which feldom is effedted by the Cape of Good Hope in double the time ! The decay of the Englifh trade in any quarter, is naturally fuppofed to give vigor to the exertions of the French. They are avowed rivals in wealth as well as power, and mutually rife on the ruins of each other. But this rule will not hold in refpedt to the commerce of Egypt. However flourifliing the French traffic may be in other parts of the Levant, it is apparently here in a confumptive ftate. No other fymptom of this is neceflary to be produced, than the reduction of their eftablifhments. The con- fuKhip of Cairo has been ftruck otf as a fruitlefs expence, by a recent order from France ; and it is obferved, that a fpirit of dif- fipation and gaming has crept in among the merchants, which was unknown in bufy times, and is wholly incompatible with their fituation. A decline of this nature will give fcope to the induftry of the Venetians and other ftates of Italy, who have faftories here, and cut no inconfiderable figures in the commer- cial fcale. At noon we fent down our baggage to the boat, which we had agreed for to take us as far as Rofetto. We paid but fixteen dol- lars for the hireof tliis boar, and, with the affiftance of Mr. Bald- win's fervants, laid up fome cold provifion for the pafTage. The markets [ 353 ] markets of Cairo are plentifully fupplied with a variety of articles, at reafoiiable rates. Flelh, fowl, and fifh, are daily expofed for fale ; and are ferved up in great perfe6tion at Mr. Baldwin's table, which amply fupports the charadler of Englifh hofpitality. At five o'clock we were joined by Monfieur Meillon, and having once more arrayed ourCelves in our Turkifh habits, we mounted our afles and proceeded to Bulac. Bulac is the port of Cairo, where every one. is obliged to embark, in order to have his goods pafTed at the cuftom-houfe. Mr. Baldwin was fo obliging as to accompany vis thither, to fee us on board the boat. We had two miles to go, and in the way, obtained the fight of a part of the city which Vi- as new to us ; and which every where difplays a face of magnificence, we little expedted to find in Egypt. We went thiough a fquarethatis'orfeof the finelllever beheld, both in refpeft to its extent, and the loftinefs of the buildings which furround it. I fpeak within bounds when I pronounce it to be nearly two miles in? circumference j and at this time the area exhibits a beautiful flieet of water, covered with gay boats of all denominations. When tho, Nile retires within his banks again, the beauty of this fquare will not be loft j as the bed of the prefent canal will wear a drefs of the livelieft verdure, during the other months of the year. We reached Bulac about fix o'clock, and getting our baggage paifed without any delay, we went on board the boat, which we found to be very large and convenient. We are now, for the firft time, in our progrefs througli Egypt, to be flieltered from the fun, and tq.travel at our eafe, and in full fecurity from danger. From the fpaeiouihefs and convenience of our vehicle, and the charms of this celebrated river, we look for nothing but pleafure in this voyage. Mr. Baldwin has been fo obliging as to fecurc us a reception at Rofetto and Alexandria, by furnifiiing us with letters to his agents there; and in every refpeft, has anfwered the expectations which v/e had formed fj'om his character and Z z ftation. ft TT fr r 354 J ftation*. We parted with him at feveii o'clock, when our boat weighed and fell down with the tide. We have the cabbins wholly to ourfelves ; but flie has feveral paffengers on board, befides us and our fervants, and a valuable cargo of coffee. The wind is right againft us, notwithitanding which we drop down at the rate of three miles an hour. Juft before fun-fet we opened the pyramids, which were in a dire(5l line behind us. The moun- tainous Itature of thefe pyramids was iucreafed by the fetting ray, which had fallen behind them, and exhibited a fpeftacle at once fublime and pi6lurefque. The night now fpread her cur- tains round the world, and difpofed us to reft. At midnight we palled the village of Daranie, on the Delta, where the Nile di- vides himfelf into two branches, which fall into the Mediterra- nean at Rofetto and Damiat, near ioo*mi:es afunder, and form the Delta, one of the moil: fertile iflands in the world. We took the branch that runs to Rofetto, and continued the whole night to drop down with the current. The wind abated towards morning, and our courfe was confequently quickened. The reader is here prefented with the courfe of the greater branches of the Nile from Cairo to the Mediterranean, as a fupplementto the chart of its courfe through Upper Egypt. * I have learnt, with no little concern, that the fituation of this gentleman has been fome time paft very critical. On the plundering of the caravan, in the fum- rrer of 1779, between Suez and Cairo, the government bound Mr. Baldwin to prevent a retaliation on the part of the Englifli, and he was no more than a pri- foner at large, until very lately that he efrefted his efcape. In this manner has the treaty of commerce betv^-een the EngliQi and the government of Cairo, been prtfcrvcd ! Thus have the fortunes of many gentlemen, who built their hopes on the faith of nation^, and remitted their property from India through this channel^ fallen a facrincc to the inconftancy and avarice of a faithlefs race ! Indeed, a revolu- tion has happened in Cairo fince that defcribed in this work, fo the wonder would be, that any treaty was refpe<Slcd by iuch a fiutStuatiog government. 7 THURSDAY, ?£ri ncmahnss ■J jHgin -'^^^njriiiiR.KNE. [ 3S5 } THURSDAY, 25th September. I rofe at day-break, to take a view of the country around us'. There was now a fine leading wind, and we went with great ra- pidity through the water. The navigation of this river is cer- tainly the moft delightful, that fancy can pi6ture to itfelf. To the right of us is the beautiful ifland of Delta, covered with grain, interfecled with canals, and thickly fet with large towns and romantic villages. The fcene to the left is of a different hue. The banks, indeed, are adorned with handfome cities and ex- tenfive groves, and a tra6l of country as verdant as the oppofite ; but then the defart appears behind this garden, and gives a noble variety to the profpe6l. At feven o'clock we paffed very near the town of Demifchili, on the weftern bank, and ran by feveral iflands of various forms, which waved with crops of grain. In {landing from one fide of the river to the other, we ran afhore at nine o'clock, oppofite a place called Abuel Hau, where we were detained above half an hour. We find that boats fre- quently meet with thefe accidents on the Nile ; but the bottom being every where a rich clay, they are produ6live of nothing worfe than the lofs of time. There is i\o danorer to be now apprehended from the natives in the day, nor will they even venture to attack any but fmall boats in the niglit, in fuch a fituation. The fecurity of this navigation is much amended of late ; though our boat is too ftrong to have fhrunk from danger in the worft of times. By the adlivity of our people we got afloat again, and purfued our voyage until noon, without any further obftacle. We now found ourfelves at the town of Elfeiale, on the Delta. We met with but few towns in this lafl run. What we have hitherto feen are moftly in a ruinous condition -, but being all embeliiflied Z z 2 with [ 356 ] with lofty mofques and the ruins of magnificent ftru6tures,. they cut a very elegant appearance from the water. We were provided with fome roafted fowls, an excellent pie, and fome bottles of wine, to which we paid oui" refpecls with great appe- tite. It is with difficulty that we can tear ourfelves from the deck on any occafioii, as the o.bje6ls around us are of afafcinat- ing nature. The towns, now began to thicken on us again. We ran by the villages of Nedfgili, Berim, and Feriftah^ befides a number of others which we palled in mid-ftream, and which are to be found in a map that Mr. Neiburh has given of the great branches of the Nile. At five in the evening we went under the town of Schabur, on the wcftern bank, and opened a point of the river with a fine breeze. I:mumerable are the fmall and large craft which we have met in our run from Cairo, and which convey to the traveller fome idea of the extenfive com- merce of Egypt. The exports, however, are chiefly confined to the articles of life, and her corn is diflributed to the different ports of the Mediterranean and the Red-fea. This is the coin in which fhe pays for the coffee of Arabia, and the cotton and filk of Perfia : and, inftead of laying illegal impofls on the mer- chant, had flie but wifdom enough to trade upon her own bot- toms, without fuffering foreign nations to engiofs the freight of her commodities, there is no doubt that her gains would exceed thofe of every other country. The wind died away towards fun-fet, which induced our crew to man a pinnace, which has been hitherto a-ilern, to tow us down the flream. This is of great afliftance to us, and we hope will enfure our arrival at Rofetto in the morning. We have put fome pafTengers afliore at feveral places which we have palTed, but fhall carry the principal part of them to Rofetto. Thefe pafTengers are lodged under an awning, which extends from the cabbin to the mainmafti and is capable of containing twenty 2 people. [ 357 ] people. Among them is a poor boy, who lofl: his father in the late troubles at Cairo. He has a good appearance, and told his tragic ftory fo pathetically, that we were moved to cornpafTion, and made a colle6tion among us, to enable him to return to his family, who are at Conftantinople. The night is ferene and unclouded, but we have no light fave what the ftars afford. It is a lucky circumftance, perhaps, for our bodies, that our minds are difengaged from the profpe<5ls around, and that there is no moon to tempt us to wafte thofe hours upon deck, which fhould be dedicated to fleep. We con- tinued to fall down flowly during the night. FRIDAY, 26th September. - We had the pleafure, at day-break, to find ourfclves near the city of Fue, on the Delta. This city is in the latitude of 31' 10' north, and within thirty miles of Rofetto. It is flill of a confiderable extent, and affords an infinity of lofty minarets to the paflenger's view, whofe tops were now gilded with the morning ray. Confidering the want of wind, our progrefs has not been tardy. The country on each fide of ixs is ftill a garden, and exhibits an agreeable variety of fruit-trees and corn-fields, opu- lent towns and fequeftered villages. Now and then we meet with fmall iflands, more verdant than the infant buds of fpring. At feven o'clock we pafTed between the towns of Deirut and Disjedie, in the former of which there is one of the mod beau- tiful molques in Egypt. We have found no increafe in the breadth of the Nile fince we left Cairo ; nor is this fo much to be wondered at, if we confider the great depth of the channel, and the multitvide of canals which every where divert his waters. V/c pafTed in the night the grand canal which fupplies Alexan- dria with water, and is faid to be the work of' Alexander. It be- gins [ 3S3 ] gias nearly oppofite tlie town of Mehallct Malik, on the Delta ; and while it was open for boats, fliortened the diftance one third, in the voyage we are engaged in. But it would have been a pity to have robbed us of any of the charms of this river. We were flill-feafting luxurioufly on the profpe6l before us, when* we came within fight of the city of Rofetto, which is known? at a diftance, by the ruins of an antient tower on an hill to the fouthward of the place. We ran under a mofque fituated on an ifland ; and at one o'clock, anchored before the city. We went afliore immediately, and waited on Monfieur Teflier, a French merchant of this place, to whom Mr. Baldwin was fo kind as to furnifh us with a letter. We were received very politely by this gentleman, who made us a tender of his houfe during our' Ihort ftay. Monfieur MeUlon, our fellow-traveller, took up his quarters with the French conful, who is but newly arrived here. Rofetto, or Rafchid, is fituated in 31° 23 'north latitude, on the weftern bank of the Nile, and is reckoned one of the prettieft and compacleft cities in Egypt. It is the next to Cairo for commerce, if we except Alexandria, and exceeds them both in the falubrity of its air, and the beauty of its fitua-' tion. The Nile runs in its front, and the fea lies within ten miles of its rear, from whence it is conftantly refrefhed with cooling breezes. The country about it is a continued plantation of lemon, citron, and orange-trees. We walked out in the even-' ing to i'urvey the city and its environs. The ftreets are regular;^ and the buildings in general neat and lofty. We prefently quit- ted the town, and were, in a manner, buried among fragrant groves, vv'here the fun's burning rays never intrude themfelves; The walks v/ere ftrewed with the bloflbms of the trees, whofe boughs were at the fame time loaded with golden fruit. In this happy clime the feafons are joyoufly blended together ; and the traveller. [ 359 ] traveller, in thefe retreats, might think himfelf tranfported to the . regions of fancy *. Here peace and plenty reign. The noife and hurry of a city are not perceivable in this peninfula, which was not the leaft difturbed by the late revolution in the ftate, though at fo ; fliort a diftance from the capital. But this may be partly owing to the nature of the Turkifli cuftoms. The changes in the go- vernment do not affect the fubjecl ; nor the evils of public dif- putes extend beyond thofe who choofe to take a part in them. On our return home vv€ paffed the French factory, which is a fpacious edifice, and difplays a very handfome front to the river. There is a wharf before it of near a mile in length, which affords a pleafant walk to the inhabitants. On the north fide of this wharf ftands the houfe of the late Mr. Wortiey Montague, who was fo celebrated for his wit and curiofity, and his extraordinary attachment to Mahometan countries ; but, perhaps, not lefs re- markable for being the fon of the ingenious lady Mary of the fame name. He refided here more than three years ; and his lol's is ftill regretted by Monfieur Teffier, and the gentlemen of Ro- fetto. We fupped and flept at the French merchant's, whofe coniplai- fance extended to the procuring us places in apaffage-boat, that fails before day-break for Alexandria. We have been obliged to prefer this mode to the ufual route by land, which we are alhu-ed has been infeftcd by v^ild Arabs, ever fince the commencement of the late troubles. We fliail be no lofers by the change, as the country between Rofetto and Alexandria, is Uttlc better than a de- fart ; and we fliall now have an opportunity of examining one of the mouths of the Nile. This mouth, it feems, is fo choaked up with a bar of fand, as to render it impaflable to any veflcl that draws more than nine feet water. The mouth of the eaftera * Well did theydeferve to be the favorite refldciicc of the beaut-iful Cleopatra! branch [360] branch is more eafy of accefs. Foreign vefTelscome up almoft to Damiat ; and we underftand the Turkifli frigate pafled that way to Cairo. But flie was obliged to be lightened for that purpofe ; and it is only during the inundation of the Nile, that veflels of fuch a confVruftion can enter this river, which is navigable for near a thoufand miles, and, were this defeat cured, might exhibit fhips of various nations in the heart of Egypt. SATURDAY, 27th September. We embarked at four o'clock this morning on the boat, to which our baggage and fervants had been fhifted the preceding evening. It was a veflel of a different built and conveniency, to the one we had left. It was not very unlike the bark in which we were fo long toffed about the Red-fea, fave that we were now provided with a good awning to flielter us from the fun, in con- fideration of a piece of gold which each of us gave for himfelf and fervants. There were no pafTengers befides us; and her cargo was not very confidcrable. We weighed anchor, in company with thirty fail of the fame craft, and fell down gently with the tide. About fun-rife we found ourfelves oppofite an old caftle on the peninfula, which appears to have been originally built for the de^ fence of the river. We crofled the flream here, and anchored at the village of Arbut on the Delta, where we were obliged to wait for a wind, to run us over the bar. Here we found the remains of a battery, which had been I'aifed to anfwer the caftle on the op^ pofite fliore ; and it feems almofl: impracticable for any hoftile vefTels that can enter this river, to have palled between them. We found feveral brafs cannon fcattered up and down the beach, of very antient conftru6lion ; but the bore of them is too narrow to engage with the artillery of theprefent times. Arbut is the laft town on the Nile, and the country about it affords little elfe than date- [ 3^1 ] date-trees, under the fliade of which we rambled about during our ftay here. At ten o'clock a breeze of wind fpringing up.tve repaired abo-ard, hoifted our fails, and flood for the bar. The river increafed all at once in its breadth ; the ftream began to be confiderably agi- tated ; and we had approached within a mile of the bar, when the wind perverfely came ahead, and obliged the whole fleet to run under the fhore of Delta. The land here has quite loft its fertile appearance. No more the earth fmiles with the plenteous harveft ; no more the embowering fhades half conceal the ruftic hamlet. The ground is thinly covered with brufh-wood, while the fhore of the peninfula is interrupted with frequent hillocks of fand. While we were kept here, our fervants drelTed us fome pigeons, which we had procured at Arbut ; and the eating of our dinner helped us to pafs away the vexatious moments of delay. More vefTels now joined us from Rofetto. This was the part in which the difficulty of our voyage wholly lay. If the wind continued as it was, we might remain here for a day ; and, for our confolation, we were told of boats that had experienced worfe luck. The profpect was not tlie moft flattering, and we were about to wifh ourfelves on the road over the defart to Alexandria, notwithftanding the perils which awaited it, when the wind lucki- ly veered to the eaftward of north, and permitted us to lay up well to our point. We immediately availed ourfelves of it, and thir- ty-five fail of us flood for the bogage or bar, which we reached about one o'clock. There is a boat conftantly at anchor in mid- channel, to direft others through this hazardous place. The waves' ran pretty high, and it was our fortune to ftrike the bank thrde of four times fuccefTively, in performing this pafTage. The fliocks were very fmart ; but as our boat was light, and the wind fair, we were threatened with no abfolute danger. Though the gale began to frelhen, and we were obliged to tack twice to fetch the 3 A channel. [ 362 ] channel, we got clear of the bogage in about tea minutes. This was no trifling piece of good luck, if it be confidered, that vefl'els are fometimes fixorfeven hours beating over this bar, and obli- ged to unlade their cargoes into the pilot-boat, in order to lighten themfelves. Had we been coming into the river at this time, the accident would, in all probability, have been of a ferious nature. The conteft between the wind and the current, which fet us out fo faft, muft be always very violent, and occafion a fea, which . would inevitably flave any vcffel, that is unfortunate enough to ftrike the bottom. The Mediterranean-fea was now before us. The goal to which our earneft looks had been fo long turned, was now happily at- tained, and we hoped, foon to refpire freely after a courfe, run with peril, and vion with labor. Like the Heed who approaches his forfaken paftures, we fnuffed in imagination our native air, and every pulfe beat quicker with the thoughts of home. The Nile throws himfelf with fuch an impetuofity into this fea, tliat Neptune feems to flirink before his might at this feafon. For a league and more from the bar, the water retains its chryftal hue and frefli quality, of which we convinced ourfelves by an expe- riment. We now flood to the fouth-weft, in company with the whole fleet. The fea was fmooth, and the light barks glibly flcimmed the furface. At two o'clock we began to open a bay to our left, which forms the peninfula where Canopus once ftood, and behind which we faintly difcerned the groves of Rofetto. The waves now were confiderably raifed, and our veflel's motion en- creafed. But the wind continued fair, and we ran brilkly by a fandy, but not a defart coafl:. Date-trees rear their heads behind the fteepy beach, and many of the eminences are crowned with the auguft^ ruins of ancient caftles. At five in the evening we found ourfelves oppofite to the town of Vickeiie, where theie is a large caflle in good repair, and a light-houfe for the diredlion of JO mariners. [ 363 1 manners. '"Hefe a'garri'lbn is conftantly maintained for the de- fence of the coaft, which is fometimes infulted by Greek corfairs, and the gallies of Malta. This is a confiderable head-land, and there are feveral fmall iflands lying off it. We once more got hit with the land, and fmoothed our water very effe6lually. We de- fcried feveral fail to the northward, and made the hull of a large three-mafted veffel. We were the beft failor in the fleet, and got fo much'ahead, that at fun-fet, our people could diflinguifli the point behind which Alexandria ftands. The coaft here is veiy low, and offers nothing pleafing to the eye. At eight o'clock we could fee the lights in the harbor. The night was dark, and wc loft the opportunity of beholding the city from this point of view. At nine we anchored within fifty yards of the fhore, and fent Ibrahim afhore with Monfieur Meillon, to find out the gentleman to whom we are recommended by Mr. Baldwin. We were pre- paring to take up our lodging in the boat for the night, when, juft before ten o'clock, Ibrahim returned with Signior Brandi himfelf, who politely came for us at that late hour. We left our fervants on board with our baggage, and accompanied that gen"- tleman to an hte/, which has been lately fet up for the recep- tion of ftrangers. Here we fupped comfortably, and enjoyed a found repofe after our tedious palfage from Rofetto. ■ • f - , . ■ , SUNDAY, 28th September. ■*'-We rofe betimes this morning, and fent for our baggage and fervants. The houfe we are in is roomy and convenient ; and was originally the Englifti faftory, when we had a conful here. Our hoft is a mafter taylor, and feems to be an inoff'enfive Italian. His wife is a Greek woman from Smyrna, talks French and Italian, and promifes to render our fituation eafy during our ftay here. We are to pay two dollars per diem each, for our bed and board ; a price, indeed, rather extravagant, but fettled in the beft manner 3 A 2 by [ 3^4 ] by-Mf,; Baldwin's agent, for the convenience of EngUftx tra- veUevs^^-, ^. We walked out after breakfaft, to take a view of the antient port and city of Alexandria. We were attended by a Janizary in .-^ the Englifli pay, whom it is neceflary to have, both as a guide and a proteclor from the infults of the vulgar. Agreeably to the cuf- toms of this place, we had refumed the European drefs, difcarded our whilkers, and once more looked and moved with freedom and eafe. We went diieflly to the fea-fide, to examine the Turkilh haven, which hes to the wellvvard of the pharos, and is perfectly fccure for fhipping when it blows a gale of wind. But this haven is facred to the Turks, who are unfeeling enough to forbid Chrif- tian velTels taking refuge in it, even when it is impoflible foe j| them to remain infafety in the common harbor. The melancholy fj confequences of this reftri6lion have appeared more than once. Particularly in the year 1767, when forty velTels of different na-» , tions foundered, or ran afhore in the common harbor, during a violent ftonn from the north-eaft quarter. But in fpite of this ordinance, Chrillian vellels will prefume at times to peep into this port ; and it is not a fortnight fmce a Maltefe privateer chafed a Turkiih fliip of much fuperior force under the very battery of the pharos, and gave her a parting broadfide as fhe ran into the road. A Turkifli man of war of fixty guns was then at anchor herejf;-, and, either through want of alertnefs or refolution, did not at- tempt to revenge the infult. This man of war is ftiil here, and . tliere are feveral frigates on this flation for the protection of the trade. _ cl ■ We now went into the dock-yard, to lee a very bad fpecimen of their ikill in (liip-buiiding. Here we perceived a party of females ftanding on the beach, ready to be embarked in a boat for Cairo. They proved to be Greek flaves, juft brought from the, ArchijiCtp kgo, and going as aprefent to the bey of Cairo. This informa-, tion [ 365 ] tioni we obtained from our Janizary, who, at onr requeft, entet-ed into conrerfation with their guard. The poor creatures feemed infenfible of their fituation, which, in fome meafure, fupprelTed the emotions we underwent at the firft knowledge of their deftiny. They turned towards us as we approached them -, and in fpite of their vails we could perceive, by their fine eyes, and their admir- able forms, that they were objects unfit to be fecluded from the fight of the world. This fudden motion, and the involuntary fur- prize which they betrayed at the novelty of our habit, awakened the jealoufy of their keepers, who immediately hurried them into the boat that was waiting for them. The price of fuch girls is from four hvandred to a thoufand zechins ; and their value is en- hanced, as much in proportion to their qualifications, as the beauties they poflefs. To what a ftate of degeneracy is the world fallen, when wit, accomplifliments, and beauty, are put up to fale among the female tribe, in the fame manner as ftrength and me- chanic fkill in the negroes of Africa! The latter branch of com- merce is indeed an impeachment on humanity ; but the former is a difgrace to the nature and tendency of the finer pafTions. Alexandria, or Scanderie as the Turks call it, lies in the la- titude of 31° 11' north, on a rifing ground, which defcends with an eafy flope towards the fea, and defcribes a femicircle, with the cafl:le on the eaftern, and the pharos on the weftern point. In this bay the foreign fliipping lay, and range themfelves abreaft of the pier which joins the pharos to the continent, according to their arrival. This ftation they chufe on account of its greater fecurity, as the pier breaks the force of the fea, which tumbles in from the eaftward. The fea waflies the wails of the houfes, and the refrefiTiing breezes which come from it, contribute much to the liealthinefs of the place. The prefent city feems to Hand in one quarter of the old, and does not take up one eighth part of the ground, which may be afcertained by the antient vvalls^'that ftill 7 remain. [ 366 1 reniaiA. -It is reckoned tocontain thirty thoufand inhabitants of all nations ; and a greater medley were never' yet affembled toge^- ther. Gain is the lure which draws thera to this mart ; tli& maflers of which are the only people who derive no folid advan-. tage from the connedtion. , I could dwell with pleafure on the minute antiquities of this • well-known fpotj were they not already defcribcd with fuch pre- cifion and elegance, in a work lately publiflied, as to leave a future traveller little to fay that can be new, and lefs that, he can hope will equal the manner of fo agreeable an author^ This work was originally printed in German, and has fmce been tranflated into French, and is the produdlion of Mr. Niebuhr, who made the tour of Lower Egypt and Arabia, by the command of his Danifli Majefty. I mean to touch, however, on the moft re- markable obje6ls of our refearch ; as to obferve a profound filenca on/o curious a theme, would be an infult on the tafte and learrt-*^ ing of the reader. • , We dined in company with a genteel young Swifs, who is on his way to India. He is to embark on the firft boat for Cairo, where he means to take his paffage on our lliipping. It was with no fmall fatisfaftion that we replied to his queries of a journey, fo new to him, and of a country in which we had fpent fo many years. lie was rather mortified, however, when he underftood there were none of our veffels at Suez, nor after their arrival, that would fail for India before the next fummer. MONDAY, 29th September. We were introduced to-day by Signior Brandi to the French conful. He appears to be a well-bred fenfible man, and is well fpoken of by our companion Monfieur Meillon, who takes up his lodgings at the French fa6tory. He is but lately arrived here, and [ 367 ] and. has his curiofity to fatisfy as much as we. We accompa- nied him in a walk to fome of the adjacent ruins. We pafled by the Venetian fadlory, which ftands next to the French. This is a very handfome building, and makes a much greater fhow than any of the foreign fa6lories. Our road lay over a fandy plain, where feveral granite pillars of a prodigious length, are fcattered up and down. They feem to have been brought here with an ' intention of being ufed, which has been afterwards given up. When we had croffed this plain, we went under an arched gateway, which, perhaps, marked one of the divifions of the antient city. To the fouth of it lies a lofty tower in a ruinous condition. It is furrounded by an high wall, and within, there is a grove of date-trees. Here the antiquities commence. ^ With what concern muft the informed fpeclator view the remains of fo celebrated a place ! With what regret muft he look back on its former beauty and pride, and draw a comparifon with its prefent poverty and decline ! I hope it will not be confidered as a piece of affe6tation in any one to declare, that he cannot behold fuch fights as thefe with an even mind. The deftruftion of renowned cities is a baneful profpeft to the eye ; and the fufceptible breaft is filled with the fame fenfations in contemplating their decay, as touch it at the appearance of a venerable charaifter in diftrefsi whom it is beyond the ability of man to relieve. We fooa came tlQk an antient temple, a part of which is ftill habitable, and has \}^en long appropriated to the fervice of Mahomet. On this ac- count, we found fome difficulty to obtain admittance. But the key was at length procured by our Janizary, and we were Ihcwn into the negle6led quarter. This is a fquare of very large dia- meter, which is furrounded with triple rows of granite pillars of the Corinthian order. Thefe pillars are lofty, and fupport a roof which is ftill in a good ftate of prefervation. The infide of the walls of this temple is inlaid with tables- of' maible 1[ ^68 ] marble of various colors, which, for their richnefs and novelty, cannot but engage the admiration of a ftranger. In the area of the fquare is a ftone clftern of very antique mould. It is' in- fcribed on all fides with hieroglyphics, and from a rail which cnclofed it, appears to have ferved for fome religious purpofe. From hence we walked through a field of antiquities to a convent, which maintains four Francifcan friars. The building is fimple, and fuited to the charafter of its founders. Here we found about an acre of ground, very neatly difpofed of. The foil was naturally fterile, but by the induftry of thefe holy fa- thers, produces vegetables in great abundance. They have a vineyard in fome forwardnefs ; and with no fmall labor and perfeverance, have funk a refervoir to fupply the garden with water, which is conveyed thither from a neighboring aqueduft. Thefe innocent creatures were diverting themfelves at nine-pins, and carried a content in their looks, which feemed to fet the cares and the vanities of the world equally at defiance. The evening was advanced, and we returned towards the city. In the way we were overtaken by a fliower of rain. This was fuch a novelty to us, who had not feen rain for fix months pafi:, that we enjoyed it in the higheft degree ; and were the only perfons in company, who would not have difpenfed with getting wet to the fkin. The ihower was flight, ho\vever, and we arrived at the French factory without any damage. The conful now introduced us to his lady, who is a pretty fprightly woman. We readily com- plied with an invitation from her to play at cards, and fpend the evening in her company. It was many months fince we had feen a female, whofe drefs and manners refembled thofe of our own countrywomen. She appears not to have any great relifti for her fituation, which, to one of her vivacity, muft be dull enough. Indeed, the difpofition of the people (he is among, may [ 369 ] ^^ay have occafioned her difguft to this country. The French conful loft his Hfe here from a barbarous principle of revenge, about eighteen months ago; and her hufband was appointed to fucceed him. This would be a fufficient motive for a wo- man's fears. The particulars of this tragical ftory I will relate hereafter. TUESDAY, 30th Seftember. We breakfafted this morning on board the French (hip, whicli Mr. Baldwin had recommended to us for a pallage to France, She is called the Cleopatra, and is a new, pretty, and commodious ^:veffel. We have agreed with the Captain, Monfieur Calvi, to give him 133 crowns each for our paffage, which is indeed a large fum in thefe feas. But the gentlemen from India are al- ..jkvays confidered as monied men, and are taxed accordingly, whether they travel this way for pleafure, or are charged with bufmefs of a public nature. We find, however, that we fhall be accommodated in the moft elegant manner ; and we muft do Captain Calvi the juftice to fay, that he ilated his intentions of providing us with a plentiful table, and fubmitted the price to our generofity. On our return from the Cleopatra, v/e pafled vinder the fterns of feveral merchantmen of different nations. jvThere were but two Englifli vellels in the number, one of which is freighted by Mr, Baldv/in for Conftantinople. ...- In the afternoon a lai-ge party of us fallied out to take a view of Pompey's pillar, the theme of the prefent age, and the admira- tion of paft times ! Befides my companions and myfelf, we were joined by the two Englifli commanders of the fliips in the har- bour, and by Monfieur Meillon, and fome young gentlemen of the French fadory. We mounted the firft affes that prefented themfelves for hire, and, attended by our Janizary, took the <,, ^ B courfe [ 37^ ] courfe we purfued yefterday. We left the convent on our right, and prefently came among broken arclies and long pavements, which are the remains of an aquedaft. Several towers reared up their difmantled heads on each fide of us, whofe ap|5earance pro- tiounces them to have been pofts of great importance and ftrength. A number of ftately pillars next engaged our attention. Thev are placed in two parallel lines, and feem to have fornr>erly fup- ported fome magnificent portico. The pillars are of granite, or Thebaic marble, and about thirty feet high of a fingle ftone ^ and Ave counted no lefs than thirtv of them ftill ilandins;. But how- ever choice thefe columns might be in any other place, they were but foils to the pillar which now appeared before us. We had been buried amid the ruins and the hills of fand, which the winds have thrown up, when, leaving the city by the gate of Rofetto, we came unexpedledly upon the pillar. It is impoflible to tell 'Vvhich is moft worthy of admiration, the height, the workman- fhip, or the condition of this pillar. By the befl accounts we can obtain, it is an hundred and ten feet high. The fhaft, which is of a fingle ftone of granite, is ninety feet, and the pedeftal is twenty more. It is of the Corinthian order, which gives a beautiful dig- nity to its fimplicity, rarely to be met with in modern architec- ture. It has fuffered little or no injuiy from time. The polifh upon the (haft has wonderfully withftood the buffeting of the tempeft -, and it promifes to hand down a patriot name to the late pofterity of the ignorant native, who has no other trace of the fame of Pompey ! The pedeftal has been fomewhat damaged by the in- ftruments of travellers, who are curious to poffefs a relic of this antiquity j and one of the volutes of the column was immaturely brought down about four years ago, by a prank of fome Englifh ■iiaptain, which is too ludicrous to pafs over. 'i' Thefe jolly fens of Neptune had been puftiing about the Can en board one of the fiiips in the harbor, until a ftrange freak en- tered [ 371 ] tered into one of their brains. The eccenfricity of the thought occafioned it immediately to be adopted ; and its apparent impof- fibility was but a fpur for the putting it into execution. The boat was ordered, and with proper implements for the attempt, thefe enterprizing heroes puflied alhore, to drink a bowl of punch on the top of Pompey's pillar ! At the fpot they arrived ; and many contrivances were propofed to accomplifh the defired point- But their labor was vain ; and they began to defpair of fuccefs, when the genius who rtruck out the frolic, happily fuggefted the means of performing it. A man was difpatched to the city for a paper kite. The inhabitants were by this time apprized of what was going forward, and flocked in crouds to be witneffes of the addrefs and boldnefs of the Englifli. The governor of Alexandria was told that thefe feamen were about to pull down Pompey's pillar. But whether he gave them credit for their refpeft to the Roman warrior, or to the Turkifli government, he left them to themfelves, and politely anfwered, that the Englifli were too great patriots to injure the remains of Pompey. He knew little, how- ever, of the difpofition of the people who were engaged in this undertaking. Had the Turkilli empire rofe in oppofition, it would not, perhaps, at that moment have deterred them. The jkite was brought, and flown fo diredly over the pillar, that when, it fell on the other fide, the firing lodged upon the capital. The chief obftaclc was now overcome. A two-inch rope was tied to one end of the firing, and drawn over the pillar by the end to which the kite was affixed. By this rope one of the feamen af- cended to the top, and in lefs than an hour, a kind of fliroud was conftrufted, by which the whole company went up, and drank their punch amid the flionts of the aftonillied multitude. To tlic eye below, the capital of the pillar does not appear capable of hold- . ing more than one man vipon it ; but our feamen found it could contain no lefs than eight perfons very conveniently. . It is afto- 3 B 2 nifliing [ 372 ] niiliitig that x^o accident befei thefe madcaps,' in a fituatlon fo elevated, that would have turned a landman giddy in his fober fenfes. The only detriment which the pillar received, was the lois of the volute before-mentioned ; which came down with a thundering found, and was carried to England by one of the cap-!-- tains, as a prefent to a lady who commiifioned him for. a piece of the pillar. The difcovery which they made, amply compenfated for this mifchief ; as without their evidence, the world would not have known at this hour, that there was originally a- flatue on this pillar, one foot and ancle of v/hich are Itill remaining. The ftatlue was, probably, of Pompey himfelf; and mull have been of a gigantic fize, to have appeared of a man's propoft-i tion at fo great an height. u'l There are circuraflances in this llory which might give it an air of fiftion, were it not demonurated beyond all doubts. Befides the tellimonies of many eye-witnefl'es, the adventurers themfelves have left us a token of the fact, by the initials of their names, which are very legible in black paint jull: beneath the capital. We fpent fo much time in viewing this elegant column, that the evening was too far advanced for us to go further. After providing ourfelves with a relic of this fliiine, w«rreturned towards the port, which is about a mile and a quarter diifant. In our way we mounted an eminence, which has been thrown up by the Turks in digging for antiques,- which are frequently found here. From hence we had a fine view of the new and old city and port of Alexandria. WEDNESDAY, ift October. t\i had a prefent of an antique this morning from Signior Brandi. .It i^a blue ftone which bears the head of a Jupiter Ca?^ pitolinuj. Thefmall colle(5lion which I have made, is not worth iQ prefenting [ 373 ] preferring to the reader, though the place from which I c!iie% drew them, is a proof of their being originals : as neither the Ikill nor the remotenefs of the country of Upper Egypt, can favor deceit in fuch matters. But a ilranger (hould be very careful how he makes thefe purchafes in Alexandria. Seals have been tendered me for fale, which had all the appearance of antiquity; but on the infpeftion of a perfon converfaiit in virtii, turned ovit to be copies. They are, however, at times, in great plenty in this neighborhood. The people who follow this trade, hit per- chance upon a mine of curiofities, when a virtuofi might fur- nilli a cabinet with originals at a fmall expence. This we faw exemplified. Signior Brandi lives with the Genoefe con- ful, Signior Agoftini. At his houfe we met with feveral anti-. qtiities, which have been recovered from the ruins of this city. Among the moft remarkable is a bull of Alexander, finely executed and but little damaged. t In the afternoon we went to fee Cleopatra's Needle, which. lies to the eaftward of the city. We again mounted our afles, and, without any other company than our Janizary, arrived in about ten minutes at the Needle. It is almoft clofe to the lea, and lifts up its head amid an heap of ruins, which appear to have been a circle of magnificent buildings tliat furrounded it. It is faid, there were originally three obclilks which bore this name; and that one of them has been buried by its own weight, and the ri- fing of the fand about it. It is certain, however, that two of them once ftood here at about fifty yards afunder. One of them was torn up by the roots in a violent fliorm fome years ago, and ** prone on the ground \\Q^ groveling many a rood." Thefe obc- lifks are alfo of granite, which is the marble peculiar to this place. They are of a fingie ftone, fixty feet in length, and covered on all fides with hieroglyphics. The one which is Handing, yields only in beauty to Pompey's pillar, among the remains of this au- U 374 V gufl: city ; anJ it is a wonder that no attempt has been made to tranfport the fallen Needle to Europe ; a fiinilar enterprize to which was effefted, I think, in the removal of Trajan's pillar, the greateft boaft of modern Rome. "What a beautiful terminay tion would it make to one of the viftos at Chatfworth ! What a noble addition would it prove to the coUeflion at Stowe ! But the expence would be too heavy for any, but a princely purfe to dif- charge, as the relic would be too valuable for any, but a monarch to poffefs. For a drawing of this obelifk, as well as of Pompey's * pillar, I muft refer the reader to the work of Mr. Niebuhr, and to the drawings of Mr. Dalton. The few plates which I have ventured to give, contain views of fuch things only as are not, to my knowledge, to be met with in other travels. We contemplated this obelilk with pleafure, and left it with regret. While we looked at the ruins around us, we could not but fancy ourfelves carried back to the times of the Ptolemies. Here Anthony revelled ; here Cleopatra reigned ! Here beauty fhed her rofy fmiles ; here pleafure danced an eternal round ; and here, alas ! the hero forewent empire and life for the fafcinating charms of love ! Some hundreds of yards from the fpot we had left, is an angle of the antient walls of the city. Thefe walls are itill above the level of the ground, and the ditch* is ftill to be dif- tinguKhed. This is the eaftern face, and at certain equidiftancesj there were round towers for the better prote6lion of the walls.* We entered the tower at the angle, which appeared to be lefs de- cayed than the reft. There is a circular room in the middle, v^^ich at prefent goes up to the top of the tower : But by a nar- - * Tht^ author has given a view of this pillar in the frontifpiece to his Eaftei-p Eclogues; but a more competent idea can be gathered of it in a collection of prints^ pitVliflicd by the ingenious Mr. Dalton in the year 1752, comprizing, among other antiquities, the clevatioiis and fcftions of the pyramids of.E^ypt, which mull have been a tafk not Icis diriicult than curious. "' •j;u3 row [' 375 ] row ftaircafe on one fide of it, there is- a likelihood of there ha- ving been apartments above. We made a tour of tliis face, and on our return home, vifited the church of St. Catherine belong- ing to the Greeks. Here one of the friars led us into a re- cefs illuminated with a lamp, to fee the ftone on which St. Ca- therine was beheaded. This ftone is held in uncommon venera- tion ; and the fathers are very anxious to perfuade ftrangers, that drops of her blood are ftill vifible thereon. They were under no danger of having this opinion contradiiSled, through the abun- dance of our zeal ; but they were, perhaps, more pleafcd, that we had charity enough to leave fome filver among them, towards th^, propagation of this innocent impofition . , .,,..-, THURSDAY, 2d October. Intelligence came this morning of the lofs of five boats on the bogagc, or bar of the Nile, which were among a fleet that failed two days ago for Rofetto. The young Swifs whom I have before fpoken of, was unluckily on board one of them ; and we learn with concern, that he has efcaped only witii his life. If the reader, however, remembers our defcription of that place, it may feem a greater mercy to him, that the young man did not perifli with his effefls. The wind blowing in the teeth of ^ rapid current, muft have occafioned a prodigious fwell on the bar, which generally proves as fatal to the mariner as to his barkw The French merchants of this city are faid to be confiderable fufferers by this accident j as they had very rich bales of goods on the boats which are wrecked. But the misfortune of the young Swifs chiefly engaged our attention. Our minds yet fmarted with the remembrance of our ov/n diftrefles j and we were, perhaps, never in a difpofition to have contributed more largely, than we now did, towards the relief of a fellow-crea- ture. [ n^ ] ture. So true it is, that calamity is the befl phyfician to men-i tal infirmities, and difpofes the paflions to liften more ferloufly to the calls of humanity. ,It is laughable enough, to obferve the materials and faftiion of the generality of the buildings of this city. Marble ready wrought to the hand, is in fuch profufion here, that in every flreet you meet with the noble fragments of palaces and temples, applied to the meancft purpofes. I have feen a ftable fupported by pillars of the finell granite, -and a cow-houfe paved with the moft beautiful tablets of marble. This view, indeed, is more likely to provoke a figh than a fmile. It too nearly refembles the prophecy denoun- ced againil that fplendid city, whofe regal edifices were to becorrie the habitations of the hearts of the field. But our ridicule is di- recled againfi: another objecl. The court-yards of the foreign fattories are encompafled with the choiceft pillars that could be prociued ; but the confufion of orders, in which the Doric, Io- nic, and Corinthian jar together, joined to the unequal height and diameter of the fliafts, rather render the whole a ludicrous than an agreeable affemblage. But as the builders have had coil-' venience more than elegance in view, the want of tafte in the dif- pofition is the more excufable. We took a ride in the evening to the canal which was brought from the Nile, and ftill fupplies the city with water. Our route lay through a road which leads to the S. E. gate, and divides the antient city into two equal parts. This is the high road to Ro- fetto, on which travellers are accuftomed to go on mules, in pre- ference to the dangerous paflage by fea. The journey is performed in izszw or eight hours, and it is reported that the oblirudtion to it is now removed, by the gallantry of a Turk, who was attacked yerterday by the Bedouins, or wild Arabs, that have lately infefled the countiy. The captain of the gang was luckily fliot by.tl^e Xurkr#,;3n4i his >^dherents have fled to other parts. Wp. arrived [ 377 ] m about half an hour at the gate. It has been a very fuperb work, and there are ftill two columns, which fupport the pedeftal above it, of the moft beautiful fymmetry and defign. The canal is about a quarter of a mile from hence. It ftill ferves the chief purpofe for which it was intended ; and, in the floods, conveys a fufficient quantity of water to the city, to fill the ciflerns for the ufe of the enfuing year. This expenfive labor was neceflary ta reflify the defe6t \yith which this thirfty foil is curft, and is in every refpeiSt worthy of its fuppofed founder. But the channel a few miles above is fo choaked up, as to render it no longer na- vigable for the fmallell boats, except for a week or two in the year. There is a large arch thrown over this canal, which ap- pears firm enough to admit of repair. Neither the bridge nor canal, however, have a chance to be reftored to their former con- dition by the indolent and illiberal Turk ; although, comparative- ly fpeaking, an inconfiderable expenee would be the means of re- viving, in their full extent, thefe elegant and ferviceable works of antiquity. On the banks of this canal are raifed the vegetables, with which the city is fuppliedj and beyond them the defart ftretches to the Nile. On our return home we made a tour of the weflern wall of the antient city, which we had not before feen. There are towers upon it as on the other fide, and the wall has more frequent breaches in it. ornioif FRIDAY, 3d October. I employed myfelf this morning in tranfcribing an ode, which I had written in detached parts, during our voyage down the Nile.- The reader will find it in the Appendix, where it will appear as a companion to the ode to the defart. He may, perhaps, fufpedl me of another reafon than what I before alkdgcd, for not mingling 3 C poetry l[Q:378 ] poetry and profe, for putting it in that place. The contraft be- tween the fubjefts is fo ftriking, as to fet the defcriptive paflages of either piece in the beft light. Nothing retards our departure but the veffel's difpatches, which are not arrived from Cairo. For fear of my being hereafter pre- vented, I will here communicate the ftory of the French conful's murder, fome circumftances of which are of an extraordinary na- ture, and will ferve to juftify the unfavorable idea which is enter- tained of the Arabians, in different parts of this w^ork. Three young gentlemen belonging to the French fa6lory had been out in the country (hooting pigeons. They were met on their return by fome Arabs, who, with their ufual impudence to Chriftians whom they fuppofe to be in their power, demanded their guns. Thefe the Frenchmen naturally refufed to deliver up J and a ftruggle enfuing, in which they were likely to be over- come by numbers, one of them levelled his piece, and fliot an Ai-ab dead on the fpot. The unexpe6lednefs of this adlion ftruck' fuch a terror into the reft, that they immediately difperfed, and left' the young men to make the beft of their way off. This they ef- fefted, but with different fortunes. The guilty perfon knew there was no fafety for him in Alexandria, although the life had been taken away in defence of his property, againft an hoftile af- ' fault. He bent his way, therefore, to a village on the fea-fide, and, without fufpicion, hired a mule for Rofetto. Here he ar- rived with great expedition, and embarked on a boat which was that moment going for Damiat. Happily for him, when he reached that city, there was a veflel under way for Conftanti- nople, in which he efcaped from the deftiny that awaited him. One of his companions concealed himfelf in this city, until he found an opportunity to quit it, which his knowledge of the language enabled him to do in fafety. The other took refuge in the French fadlory ; the fuppofed fanitity of which, he vainly imagined [ 379 ] imagined would protect him from the refentment of the Arabs. Though he was only a fpe6lator of the accident which had hap- pened,, he was doomed to anfwer for it in the moft inhuman manner. The city was prefently in commotion } and a mob, headed by the comrades of the deceafed, forced open the gates of the faclory. after having been denied admittance by the conful, took out the unfortunate youth who remained, and hung him upon the firft tree they met with. Not fatisfied with this facrifice, they afterwards cut him in pieces, and expofed his limbs in diffe- rent quarters of the city. Here one might think the vengeance of a barbarian would ftop. With fuch a retaliation, that, confounding as it did the innocent with the guilty, is fo agreeable to their notions of jufUce, the Arabs might be fatistied. But their thirft for blood was not yet quenched. As the;murderer had efcaped, they turned their rage againll the innocent man, who had prefumed to afford his ac- complice a fanftuarj. Aware of the unforgiving difpofitions of the Arabs, the conful had confined himfelf to his houfe for the fpace of two months, and upwards. He now thought the matter was forgotten, and ventured out as ufual to take the. air on an afs, along with the Janizary of his nation. This Janizary is efteemed here a fufficient fafeguard. He may be fo on common occafions, but his authority failed him on this. They were met by a man near Pompey's Pillar, who, with feeming indifference, enquired the conful's name of the Janizary ; and being fatisfied it was the perfon he fought, he ftepped fuddeniy behind him, and difcharged a piftol in his back. The ball went through the con- ful's body, and he immediately expired. Thus lofing, like the hero near whofe column he fell, his life by the treachery of the Egyptian race ' The affafiln efcaped during the Janizary's cori- fufion, and no notice was taken by the government of fuch an . outrage. The French confulted their own dignity^ as well as the 3 C 2 intereils [ 38o J 'interefts of other nations, when they Tent two frigates this fummer to demand fatisfaftion. But whether the force was inadequate, or they have been tempted, by fome fecret advantages, to give up, as they have done on many occafions, the honor and even fafety of their minifters in Turkey, the frigates have departed, without fuccefs in their negotiation. SATURDAY, 4th October. We were alarmed this morning with the report of a vefTel being about to founder in the harbor. This carried us to the quay, where we faw a Greek polacre go down in about half an hour. It feems that fhe run upon the anchor of another veffel as fhe came into the road, and the crew were glad to quit her with their lives. It is furprizing that thefe accidents are not more frequent in a port, where veflels are obliged to be always moored, on ac- count of their infecure ftation. The water is fo fhallow when the tide is out, that there would be no fleering clear of the anchors, were not ilrangers apprized where they lie. What is done, there- fore, in other places for the convenience of the owners, is here enforced for the good of the public. And every veflel is obliged, by an order at this port, to place buoys over her anchors. A failure •^ifi this meafure fubje6ts her to the payment of any lofs fhe may occafion. And, it is faid, the owners of the G reek polacre will recover damages on this ground. ^ As we were returning from the quay, we met a porter finking, to all appearance, under a double bale of cotton. He wore jack- boots, in order to keep his knees flraight, and walked doubled, with his hands fupported on his knees. Were not the fa 61 vv^ell known to thoufands who trade to the Levant, one would hefitate to men- tion the enormous loads which the Turkifh porters carry. We '^iW '^' 'tlie fcales where the bales were weighing, and faw one of 9 them [ 38i ] them take a T)ale of 7 cwt. upon his back, and Hagger tinder It to the quay. The dlftance, indeed, is not very great, and there appears to be as much art as ftrength exercifed in thefe furpriz- ing efforts of the bodily powers. I have heard more than once, during my x'efidence in India, of the porters in Perfia behig fa- mous for carrying a pipe of wine on their backs, which is mOiT than 10 cwt. and, with the affiftance of a bamboo, or flick acrols his fhoulders, a Chinefe at Canton is faid to fupport an equal bur- den with more eafe to himfelf. It is only in countries, however, where labourers of this kind are fcarce, that fuch vigour is defir- able. In Paris or London, where profeflions are not hereditary, and where every idler is willing to turn his hand to any thing, the inconvenience of this monopoly would be felt. This ufeful branch of labor would fink in its value, and crouds would lan- guifli for want of employment. We dined on board one of the Englifli fhips to-day, where the departure of the French frigates without redrefs of their complaint, became the fubjecl of converfation. It feems that the French have been much animadverted upon by foreigners here on this occafion ; and comparifons been drawn between them and the Englifli, not to their advantage. Indeed, hiftory furniflies many inftances of the oppofite behavior of both go- vernments in fimilar cafes. Where one negotiates for a redrefs of injuries, the other difpatches a fleet to command it. And while one is wafliing time in unavailing threats, the other employs more certain arguments of conviction with the Maho- metan powers. But there is fomething very myfterious in this procedure of a people, who, in other refpefls, are jealous of af- fronts, and enamored of glory. The particular advantages whicli they derive from the Turkey trade, feem to influence their ope- rations in that quarter j and they aim at the prefervation of thofc advantages, at the expence of tlieir national honor, AH Europe is [ 382 ] is, indebted to France, for the tiouble flie took irk fcouring the Arcliipelfigo of the pirates which infefted it, after the clofe of the Ruffian vyar. They were chiefly Greeks, and abounded in fuch a degree, that not a merchantman efcs^ed being attacked by them. The French frigates every where purfued them with mi- remitting vigilance ; and to eradicate the evil effectually, ran their barks down in general, without firing a gun. The good confequences of thefe exertions foon appeared; and it is no- torious, thnt there never was a time, in which the Mediterra- nean, was fo free of corfairs of all denominations, as tha prefent. Captain Calvi introduced us in the evening to a Greek family, which confiiled of a lady and her two daughters. The latter, were very beautiful, but overloaded with a profufion of zechins upon their heads and breafl:s, which w:ere ftrung together like pearl *.. The eldeft of the daughters is married to a man now in f'rance- She preffed our captain much for a pafTage. He is fi|U; .but witli the gallantry of a Frenchman, placed his refufal to a defire of preferving harmony among his pafiengers, which- the influence of her charms could not fail to invade. The frank— nefs and pleafantry of this Provencal are very engaging, and. afford us a profpeft of much entertainment dming our voyage. T' SUNDAY, 5th October. ji. We attended the fervice this morning at the chapel of the Ge- uoefe faftory, where we afterwards dined, on the invitation of. * Among thefe I perceived a medal of Alexander the Great, in fine prefervation. As the charaders were Roman, it was probably ftruck by one of the Casfars in honor of that hero. I attempted, in vain, to place it among my fmall col- Signior. ;i;ir.'3!:3- [ 2h ] ' Signlor Brandi. The conful is a polite chea'rful old gentleman of feventy and upwards, and has ferved in that office with great credit, for above thirty years. He is, however, too much of an invalid to be able to attend to bufinefs, which is managed for him by Signior Brandi, who is alfo agent to Mr. Baldwin. We accompanied Signior Brandi in the evening to the Vene- tian fadlory, where we drank coffee with an Italian lady who is lodged there. From hence we fallied out to a garden, which is about ten minutes walk from the city. This garden is thickly planted with fruit-trees of various kinds, in which we found a very agreeable relief from the fandy views, which every where meet the eye in the environs of this place. Nothing but the happinefs of its lituation for commerce, could have prompted Alexander to have founded a city on this barren fpot. And the rank it keeps among commercial cities at this hour, in fpite of the revolutions it has feen in its religion, government, andcuftoms, demonftrates the acutenefs of that monarch's difcernment. Tyrc, Athens, and Carthage, are only to be refpe6ted in the page of hiftory : while the port of Alexandria is ftill crouded with the veflels of different nations ; and ftill difpenfes, though in a lels degree, her bounty through the world. ^*"^ ^*^'^ As we returned home we palTed the houfe of a fair Je^vefs, whofe reputation is fpread about this city. It is her cuftom to (hew herfelf daily at her window, to enfnare thofe who venture to gaze upon her. It is affirmed that her charms made a very fingular impreffion upon an Englifli nobleman, who came here fome years ago. He bid very highly for her perfon, but was difappointed in his views. The amour fomehovv got wind, arid' fhe was honored by a wag with his title, which fhe has prefej:yed to this day. ' -A In a converfation with our Janizary this evening, vve difcd-*'' vered that fear was one caufe of the diftindion, with which the" 3 Englifli [ 3h ] Englifli are treated in this country. It Is many years fince the* Englifh ti'ade has declined in the Levant. Their fhlps of war* no more ride triumphant in thefe feas, and their thunders haVtf long ceafed to ftrike terror through the coafts of Egypt. But the fpell is revived. The Englifh have found their way into the Red-fea, and have it at their option to deal with Egypt on their own terms. The reader may remember the affiftance which we received in our greatefl diftrefs, from the arrival of the Swallow floop of war at Judda. This floop mounted about twenty guns, and had carried difpatches from Madras to Suez, Since the Por- tuguefe were expelled Arabia, no veffel of war belonging to a fo- reign power, Imd vifited that port. Her arrival was a phenome- i^p, VY-hich aiarrned the weaknefs of this government. The jea- loufies. that exift among the European nations, are the bafis of it& fecurity on the fide of the Mediterranean. But on the Ihoi'es of the Rcd-fea, it muft fubmit to the power, whofe empire in Ii}4iia has given them the navigation and commerce of the Red- fe^, ..\^dthout a competitor. And this power is the Englifti. A track, ftruck out by private adventurers, may hereafter bene- fit the public ; and, under proper reftriftions, add to the influence and power of the Company, in a meafure which might exceed- expedlatioij*. Rumor is well known to. magnify danger. The no o^B mBiy luc force ^*»'4'he in lability of the Egyptfan government weakens, in fome degree, the ?b<¥e^of 'thfis reafoning. It has been fuggefted by the ingenious Dr. Ruflell,, Y^^jp^e long refidence ia Turkey inclines the author to pay a deference to him on aikbjei^ on which he is fo much better informed, that, the difcouragemeiit which, the 'f urks give to the trade by Suez, arifes from this very caufe. The revolu- tiohs in Cairo are often annual, and the Porte, confequently, can depend but little, on receiving a fbare of their profits from men, whofe footing in power is fo flip- pery. The communication with India by the caravans of Aleppo, turns out wholly in. favor of the Turk. The inference, therefore, which the Doctor draws, is very judicious. The commerce by Aleppo would fall to the ground, were that ^' '• by [ 385 J ^ force of the Swallow floop was eilimated at Cairo at fixty guns. Here, fhe is a firft rate ! It is no wonder that this government fliould be on its good behavior, when it has not even a galley on the Red-fea to prote6t the trade. For though this trade is almofl wholly carried on upon Arabian bottoms, were an embargo to be laid on the importation of coffee into the Egyptian ports, the courfe would be turned to the caravans, through which chan- nel the coffee is delivered at more than double the price, to what it is by water. MONDAY, 6th October. We are detained here by the mofl vexatious of all circum- fiances — the neglefl of the agents of the Cleopatra. Captain Calvi has been ready to fail thefe four days, and his difpatches are not yet arrived from Cairo. To whet our difappointment, the wind has been eafterly the whole time; and we might have performed a fourth part of our paffage to Marfellles. Na- tural delays fliould be borne with patience; but thofe which arife from human perverfenefs, are enough to ruffle a Stoic's temper. We encountered fbme objecls to-day, who beyond all others Ihould engage our commiferation. They were the captain and officers of a French vefTel, which was wrecked four years ago on the coafl of Barbary. Along with the crew they were carried into flavery ; and have now been releafed by an accident. The em- peror of Morocco has fent an embafTy to the court of France, and thefe Frenchmen were felefled, among forty others, as a pre- fent worthy for a king to receive. The particulars of thefe un- by Suez to be eftabliflied. And this is the fecret objeftion which the Porte en- tertains to the latter trade ; and was hatched, not by the influence of French in- trigues, nor the complaints of the religious of Mecca and Medina. 3 D fortunate [ 386 ] fortunate people's ftoiy are very tnterefting, but very fimilar to accounts already publifhed of captives irt the fame fituation. There is a youth among them of about fourteen years of age. His lot was different from the reft. On account of his youth, when they were firft brought to Morocco, the emperor ordered him to be an attendant in the feraglio. This anecdote ^xz had from the boy's own mouth, ahhough he was fometimes at a lofs to ex- prefs himfelf in his native tongue. His employment was to make coffee for the emperor's wives, and to gather bouquets for them of the fweeteft flowers in the gardens of the palace. It may, per- haps, wound the pride of our countrymen to know, that the Sul- tana is an.Engliftiwoman, who has been elevated to that dignity more than twenty years. She feems to be about forty, and ha- ving borne the emperor two fons, is perhaps, on that account, treated by him with a diftin^flion, which her charms no longer command. And in fafl, wliile he pays her only court in public, his private hours are dedicated to a French concubine, v/ho was made a captive by one of his cruizers, and on account of lier ex- quilite beauty, preferred to the feraglio. Thefe barbarians, it feems, are grown nice in their amours ! Depopulated Greece can- not aftbi-d them a variety of beauty, but they niuft appropriate the fpoils of France and England to pamper their bafe lufts ! Where (leeps the vengeance -of thofe warlike nations, that they fuffer theie crying injuries to pafs unpuniflied ? The gallies of Barbary groan with their men, and her feraglios teem with their females ! When the ftates of Europe learn to diftinguifli their true interefts; when they eftablifh a firm bafis of union among themfelves ; then, and then only, can they hope to fee their arms dire<5led againft the common enemies of mankind ; to fee their commerce un- interrupted, their people uninflaved by the refufe of the earth! The Mahometan Ramazan is commenced. This inftitute is an imitation of our Lent, except that there is a difference in the mode i[r 387 J mode of abftlnence required. The rigid Catholic contents him* felf with a change of ditt ; and takes his ufual meals without fcruple, fo that he forbears flefhi and certain forbidden thingsm The life of a MufTulman undergoes a total innovation during this fait From the time the fun rifes until it fets again, the tafte of any fubftance, even water itfelf, is prohibited by the law of Ma- homet. But then the night brings full reparation with it. Ex- cefs follows abflinence, and he indulges himfelf in a variety of food, to be revenged upon the law. The bad confequences of this prieftcraft muft be fenfibly felt by both parties. Our Ja- nizary has been quite unhinged fmce the Ramazan began. He is now fitter for fleep than adlion, during the day; and were we to remain here, we fliould reap little benefit from his fervices while the faft continued. The flreets are now empty of people in the day-time. Towards the evening they begin to affemble in the cofFee-houfes, and at the corners of the flreets ; where they wait for the prieft's proclamation of funfet. Their faces betray the height of impatience; and at the appointed fignal, thcj flart for their dinners with no very temperate intentions.. if I'lp ^^' TUESDAY, 7th October. The veflel's difpatches are at length arrived, but the wind is Co confiderably heightened to-day, that the captain holds it danger- ous to attempt moving out of his ftation with it. We muft wait for what the morrow may efFeft in our behalf. News is juft come from Cairo, that the troubles upon the Nile are recommenced, and that w&r is about to renew its horrors in this unhappy country. The fugitive beys have found means to poffefs themfelves at length of Jirje, about which city they have long hovered. The fituation of this poft enables them to ftop ef- feftually, the navigation of the river. A large armament is pre- i...i I. 3 D 2 paring ft <?^8 '] paring at Cairo, to diflodge the rebels from their ftrong hold. Boats of all kinds are prefled for this fervice, and the communi- cation promifes to be interrupted between Alexandria and the me^ tropolis. The ifTue of this commotion may, to all appearance, be foretold. It is the laft effort of a defperate party, which can- not avail them againft fuperior numbers and difcipline. Ifmaul Beg has now fet a price upon the heads of his antagoniils. This barbarous practice is juftified by the example of the moft polifhed nations, againft thofe whom the ftate confiders as trai- tors. And in all probabihtv, it will now rid the bey of Egypt of his fears. But the accompliftiment of this defign is uncertain *. We cannot fufficiently congratulate ourfelves on our removal from thofe I'cenes of contention; and count all our toils as hap- pily endured, fince we have efcaped thereby, the new delays that awaited us. . .^ j.-, Ibrahim has jufl: now taken leave of us, to embark on a boat which is bound for Rofetto. He is furniflied with recommenda- tions for the Englifti captains who may come to Suez ; and there i^ no doubt of his finding a good opportunity to get back to the Adventure, to which veflel he ftill belongs. The behavior of this poor Indian has been uniformly honeft and ingenuous. Some flight errors which he has been guilty of, were fully retrieved by the importance of his fervices ; and could we command power or riches at this moment, they would be employed in beftowing a more fuitable reward on his merits. Henceforth be not virtue appropriated by any particular feft. Let pride be taught to be- lieve, there is no diftin6lion among mankind, but what refults ■from the pradice of good and evil; and imbibe, with us, a chari- table opinion of the members of every perfuafion. • So uncertain, that it appears the very reverfe has fince happened, and the de- pofed beys have recovered their power, though at this hour, perhaps, it has again eladed their grafp ! That [ i^9 ] ■^■That we-^might be ready 'fiar ' the captain's' fummbns m tlvp morning, we difcharged our debts at this place, and pfefehtedtjui" Janizary with fome pieces of gold, for the trouble that . we have given him. The alacrity with which we fhali quit thefe fliorcs, has been quickened by concurrent circumftances. The very aJr of this city feems to be impregnated with the breezes of tire North. Her llreets difplay the habit which is fo familiar to our eyes j and her harbor is crowded with veflels, wliicli are bound to the lands of liberty and fcience. What bofom then can reprefs its emotions at fuch a fight? What foot would linger on the ftrand, when the fail was fet for the ports of Europe ? Curiofity has been fatisfied. Like the hunters who have encountered toil and danger in the purfuit of their game, we anticipate the fweets of repofe j and find, that the ardor of expedlation conftituted tlip principal pleafure of the chace. /s .-..>... V,.. WEDNESDAY, 8th OcTOBEK^vod 21 dohhf ^f The wind being favorable this morning for Qijr.,|departurej» the Captain fired a gun, as a fignal for us to go off. At f^- ven o'clock Monfieur Meillon accompanied Major Alexander, ^r» Hammond, and myfelf to the quay, where we embaiked on the Cleopatr^ i^^gd^^t^elpvep^ j^f^Sl^ ,(^^^^^ ^ * It may be fatisfa£tory to the reader to know that our travellers, whom he has fo long accompanied, arrived fafely in England at the clofe of the year 1777, after a journey of eleven months. It may be fuppofed that the end of their, mifllon was defeated by the delays they encountered ; but they flatter themfelves, that the mewt of perfeverance v/'iU not be denied them, either by the refpe(Sable body in wnofeler- vice it was exerted, or by the generous public. ' ' ' ■••';•' ^•-)i'-' ... .-.ii . . iU ■^.,,^■.,■^,.•4. ,-•,,,,. _^.; vi 1 ... , ...ly /;,. ,,iw.,. J II 11., .J jUlol I J J.:,J •Ji, ' n'is-oB, zeA ft jZqEffwq ^luod airfj JB li^^uod] ^lowoq tiarfi baiavoooi svBrf ay^"^ boloq C S9<^ 3 AND now. Madam, it is time to bid you adieu. To purfue the fimile of the hunters, whatever TatisfaAion I may have found in the recital of our adventures, I doubt vi^hether an indifferent per- fon will liften as complacently to the tale. In the review of this volume, I have as much reafon to pray for your indulgence, as to hope for your fympathy. While the tear of pity dims your eye, let it prove a vail to the inaccuracies which are almoft infeparable from a work of this nature. Nor let this be deemed an unrea- fonable or arrogant wifli. While the major part of mankind ai'e adminiftering to the caprices of the female-fex, while they are feeding their vanity with the groffefl flatteries, and perverting their difpofitions by an idle compliance with their humours, his prefumption may furely be excufed, who, actuated by a fpirit of philanthropy, and willing to communicate the refult of deai*- bought experience, endeavors to make one woman of his party, who has reflection enough to weigh the importance of human misfortunes, and zeal enough to promote their publication for the- inftru6lion of the world. That he has not offered a trifling fub- je6l to her confideration, is the befl: compliment which he could pay to her underftanding -, and that he looks for her fympathy in the hour of difl:refs, is not the worft pi6lure which he could give of her feelings. To be a ferious member of a thoughtlefs tribe, is no lefs an honor to a woman, than to poffefs a refined heart in a depraved and diffipated age. dl I have the honor to be. Madam, ^Alexandria, 8th Odober, J 777. Your's, &c. POSTSCRIPT. T 29 i ] ' P O S T S C R I P T. U S T as thefe flieets were going to the prefs, a letter came to my hands, which, on every account, I would wiOi to communi- cate to the reader. The ftorm is blown over, and the tale that threa- tened fuch tragical circumftances, is brought to an happy cbnclii-^ fion. But if any chara6ter in this work has fecured the affe6li6n-' of the reader, he will not refufe a ligh to its unworthy delliny. If the work itfelf has interefted his paffions, he will greedily peruf'e a fupplement, that promifes further food for his curiofity. The letter is from Mr. Hammond, one of the number of the unlucky fubje6ts of thefe adventures, who has poffcffed refolution enongli to hazard the dangers of an inhofpitable fhore, and to return to India by the route of Egypt, I mean not to anticipate the rela- tion of a friend, but I fhould do injuftice to my own feelings, were I to be filent on this melancholv occafion. And here let me advife the fuiceptible reader to clofe the volume. The ingratitude of mankind is too frequent, to difturb the Phi- iofopher's peace ; but the impreflion it makes on the unexperi- enced breaft, is too deep to be eafily erafed. But if he dare the conflifl, and prefer to mingle his generous concern with mine, let him refle6t on the crown of glory which awaits the virtuous dead ! Let him, with me, weigh the unimportance of the track, by which the foal is led to the regions of immortality j and while we embalm the monarch's memory with an unfeigned tear, let us lo hope [ 392 ] hope that our latter prayers may be as acceptable to tlie Deity, as our latter moments may be more propitious than thofe of the great Ifmaii Abu Ally ! Unbroken be the reed which moans thy lofs, rich pearl of Araby ! Sweet fmelling like the gums of Aden's vale, to heaven afcend thy precious fpirit ! C( Grand Cairo, 20th Auguft, 1779. " I cannot avoid giving you a letter from a place that was once " fo defirable an objedl to us, however reverfed it has been to me " a fecond time. I arrived here the 15th July laft, after a very '* pleafant pallkge from Venice, and was preparing, with my " fellow-travellers, to fet out for Suez on the 28th, when, on '* tliat morning, Mr. Moore, the owner of our veflel, was made " a prifoner, and detained till four days ago, in confequence of " his fhip, with another at Suez, having been treacheroufly " feized by the orders of this government. The fliips have fince " been releafed, and the people are gone to Suez to take poflef- •' iion of them again; which we only want to hear of, to enable ** us to fet forward. This extraordinary manoeuvre, on the part " of this government, was owing to an Englifli caravan having ** been plundered in crofling the defart from Suez to Cairo, and *' many unfortunate Europeans having periflied in the defart. •' The government, upon this, contiived the means of feizing the *' veffels, and have made us enter into folemn engagements with " them, that no hoftilities fliall be committed hereafter by the ** Englifli, in confequence of that accident ! *• The politics of this country have been a good deal changed " fince we left it. It feems that foon after our departure from *' Cairo, Ibrahim Beg, and Morad Beg, were brought back into " Cairo, accompanied by our old friend Ifman Abu Ally, wha " was with Mr. Baldwin, and made many enquiries after us. For «* this elTential fervice, the poor old man had his head taken off 10 " by 3 ■] ** by Mofad Beg, atout three weeks ago, who was at Ghinnah " in purfuit of HufTein Beg, one of Ifmaul Beg's partizans ! — ** Monfieur Chevalier, the late governor of Chandernagore, ar- *' rived here a few days ago from Judda, by the route of Cofire. " He met with Morad Beg at Ghinnah, who gave him his pafT- ** port, for his fafety down the river. •' I hope to leave Cairo in about five days, attended by our old *• fervant Ibrahim, who has been wife enough to marry here, and ** is as completely fettled as he well can be. I have advifed him *• to pufh off to India with us. As if I had not been fufficienlfly ** punifhed for making a fecond vilit to this country, I have had *« the addition of an epidemical ficknefs, which has raged here ** with great violence, and, I believe, has extended to every Euro- ** pean in the place." THE £ 394 3 THE APPENDIX, ODE TO THE DESART. Written on a Journey through the Deiarts of Thebadsy September I'jj'j* THOU wafte f from human fight retir'd. By nought efteem'd, invok'd, defir'd y Where flony hill and fterile plain. And evei'-fuUen filence reign* : Where nought is feen to cheer the eye. But ruflet earth and funny iky ; Nor tree nor herbage blefs the ground. Nor aught to cherifh life is found. i Save, where the deer, whom fears aflaili. Shoots fuddenly athwart the vale ; If chance the found of diftant feet Approach his lonefome, dark retreats O ! while thy fecrets I explore. And traverfe all thy regions o'er,. The patient camel I beftride — May no ill hap his fteps betide ! * " And ever- mufing melancholy reigns." ^ovz'i Eloij'a to Jbelard. 9' As [ 395 ] As on we prefs the burning foil. And through the winding valley toil. Still lend fome hill's projefting height. To fhield me from Sol's piercing fight. And fhould our fcrips of water fail. And horrid thirfl my lips affail. Then, then, thy fcanty drops impart. To renovate my fainting heart. Nor to thy toiling fon refufe The trufle's leaf, or berry's juice ; Thefe ftinted produ6ls of the wafte. Luxurious ! let my camel tafte. At noontide heat, and midnight cold. Thy vengeful flores of wrath with-hold : Nor bid the fudden whirlwind rife. To blend at once, hills, vales, and Ikies ! Dread caufe ! too fubtile to define. Where horror ! danger ! ruin join !— — Stop, flop its peftilential breath. That 'whelms a caravan in death ' But chief, whence lies our daily track, O ! turn the roving * Arab back j Who, tyger-like, infefts the way. And makes the traveller his prey. * The reader will have found that this wifli was not granted. We fell in with a party of wild Arabs, and, what was more extraordinary, on the very day that this Ode was written. This meeting, fo dreaded by us, was, in all probability, the caufe of our prefervation. Thefe foes to man, by an unexpected turn, became pur friends. They were our guides when our people were at a lofs for the road ; they led us to the fprings, and fupplicd us with food, when our water or provifion failed us. What an ijiconteftible evidence i-s this of the weaknefs of human opinions ! of the vanity of human wiflies ! 5 E 2 « As [ 396 ] As erft the fons of Ifrael fled From Pharaoh's reign and Nilus' bed,. Here manna fell by God's command. And water follow'd Mofes' wand: . So may old Nilus paffing nigh, A portion of his floods fupply ; Invite the neighb'ring peafant's toil. To cultivate thine alter'd foil. So be thy hills with verdure fpread. And trees adorn each nakerl head ;, So in the thirfl:y vales below, Difcover'd fprings be taught to flow. So, teeming with neglefted veins. Thy marble pay the fculptor's pains j Who, emulous of Grecian tafte. May give an Athens to the waft:e ! And on thy furthefl: fandy fliore. Which hears the Red-fea's billows roar,. May Commerce fmile, her fails unfold. And change thine iron age to gold ! ODE [ 397 ] ODE TO THE NILE. Written during a Voyage down that River. Sept. 1777. IMMORTAL ftream ! whom Afric leads Through barren plains and verdant meads ; Now flaming o'er the Nubian fands. Now laving Egypt's cultur'd lands j To mark where firft thou court'ft the gale, The poet's ftretch of thought might fail : Might heroes fhudder to behold The wonders which thy depths unfold. O ! place me on thy gentle tide. When firfl it leaves its fountain wide ; 'Till, threat'ning on the Cat'ract's brow. It rufhes to the world below. Here, as the joylefs wild we trace, "Where Nature fhrouds her beauteous face. The Oftrich — child of want and gloom ! Dips in thy wave his filver plume. Now, [ 398 ] T^ow, lurking on thy fedgy fliores. The Crocodile his prey explores. Hark ! 'tis a virgin's fliriek* — thy flood She fought — to color with her blood ! No arms the monfter can appal — Bounds from his fcales th' unerring ball. i,o ! to avenge a mother's tears. The Hippopotamus appears ! Now Death affumes his gnmmcft form. Thy troubled furface owns the Itorm; Like warring veflels, on they move Their mortal rage and force to prove ! O ! hafte we from this confli6t dire. And to thy fairer fcenes retire; Where, fwelling o'er thy native ftrand. Thy waters fatten all the land; Where on the wide expanfe are feen The tufted grove and ifland green : The minaret, that tow'rs above. The haram — prifon gay of love ! As Pleafure, Commerce, fpread the fail, A thoufand gallies catch the gale : Their oars a thoufand gallies ply, Whofe pomp refulgent ftrikes the eye. * This alludes to a circumflance which happened juft before the author came to the Nile, and which the reader will find in page 259 of this work. The frequent combats between the River-horfe and Crocodile, in which the former is generally vidorious, arc too well known to need a comment. ' Now [ 399 J Now bear me down thy weftern arm. Where Delta looks one cultur'd farm ; By ruin'd cities, nodding towers. And hide me in Rofetto's bowers. Hail fhades ! who give fuch charms to view. As ne'er Alcinous' gardens knew ; While bloffoms here their fweets unfold, Bow'd is the tree with fruit of gold. And thou fam'd ftream ! what tho' no more The world's emporium as of yore ; Tho' grac'd not with the Roman name. Thy realm contending factions claim : A Pharaoh's daughter erft was thine. Whom pity touch'd with cares divine. As flie the prophet chanc'd to note While in his ozier-bark afloat. Thou knew 'ft a Cleopatra's reign. Who number'd vi6lors in her train ; A Juhus, led by glory's ray ; An Anthony — to love a prey ! A Ptolemy of learn'd renown. And great Sefoftris wore thy crown ;: Thine, Memphis ! crufli'd by adverfe fates,. And Thebes — that op'd an hundred gates ! Aiid [ 400 ] And ftill flialt thou our homage keep, While fea-girt Pharos awes the deepj While left for ages to admire. Thy pyramids to heav'n afpire ! While Plenty on thy banks is found. To feed the famifh'd nations round; While Poets ftrive to fmg in vain The wonders of thy vernal reign ! N IS, University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 305 De Neve Drive - Parking Lot 17 • Box 951388 LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90095-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. '-4 1 1 Qt- Form L9 Cr THE LIBRARY ONlVEilSiTY OF CALIFORMif LOS ANGELES -;>-CT^l I72s wmm