SERIES OF ADVENTURES, &c. 
 
 IN LETTERS TO A LADY.
 
 d.A
 
 SERIES OF ADVENTURES 
 
 IN THE COUR SE OF 
 
 A VOYAGE UP THE RED-SEA, 
 
 ON THE COASTS OF ARABIA AND EGYPT; 
 
 AND OF 
 
 A ROUTE through the Defartsof THEBAIS, 
 
 HITHERTO UNKNOWN TO THE EUROPEAN TRAVELLER, 
 IN THE YEAR M.DCC.LXXVIL 
 
 IN LETTERS TO A LADY. 
 BY EYLES IRWIN, ESQ^ 
 
 IN THE SERVICE OF THE HONBle. THE EAST-INDIA COMPANY. 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH MAPS AND CUTS. 
 
 INFANDUM, REGINA, JUBES RENOVARE DOLOREM. 
 
 Virgil. 
 
 LONDON: 
 PRINTED FOR J. DODSLEY, PALL-MALL. 
 
 M.DCC.LXXX.
 
 
 
 TO THE HONOURABLE Jl'l^^ 
 
 THE EAST INDIA COMPANY, 
 
 THIS WORK, 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 THE PARTICULARS OF A JOURNEY 
 
 UNDERTAKEN ON THEIR SERVICE, 
 
 IS,. WITH GREAT DEFERENCE, INSCRIBED, 
 
 BY THEIR MOST FAITHFUL 
 
 AND MUCH OBLIGED SERVANT, 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
 London, ift 
 February 1780. 
 
 
 «-fr
 
 T VI 3
 
 ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 N the publication of a work of this nature, 
 foniething may be expeded by way of prelude. 
 If the plaudit of the public is not to be purchafed, 
 their indulgence may pofTibly be fecured. But nei- 
 ther of thefe motives has influenced the author to 
 trefpafs upon their time. He would deprecate their 
 pardon, not for having given birth to this produdlion, 
 but for having introduced it immaturely to the ob- 
 fervation of the public. What little polifh would the 
 clofe application of two years throw upon a body of 
 this magnitude ! And yet, amid a variety of other avo- 
 cations, two years only has the author been allowed to 
 tranfcribe, correct, and finifh it. He fays, allowed, 
 as neceility prefcribes the term, and his duty calls 
 him to a diftant part of the globe, to perform other 
 engagements, to pay other debts, than what the deflre 
 of pleafing prompts, or the love of fame exads from 
 him. 
 
 Under this conviction, therefore, he waits fllently 
 
 the probe of criticifm. But the candid critic, like 
 
 the fkilful furgeon, is fparing of the knife, and, but 
 
 10 in
 
 ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 vui 
 
 in defperate cafes, is inclined to proceed to extremi- 
 ties. Into fuch hands it may be the lot of the author 
 to fall. Where the eye takes more delight in beauty 
 thkfi in deformity, where the difpofition is more apt 
 to praife than to cenfure, no doubts could deter an 
 author from appearing at the bar of criticifm. In a 
 defcription of countries little travelled, and of men 
 little known^ there may poflibly be miftakes that have 
 arifen from milinformation, or even mifconception of 
 things. In a detail of adventures committed often to 
 paper in moments of peril and diftrefs, there may, 
 indcedj be a repetition of fentiment, and fometimes a 
 contradi6lion of opinions before advanced, which the 
 greateft attention, during a two years revifal, has not 
 been able to correal. But if impartiality has uni- 
 formly diredled his pencil, and his pictures are not 
 even fo highly coloured as nature would have per- 
 mitted ; if he has rather confulted the public amufe- 
 ment, than the gratification of his own vanity, this 
 early publication, with all its imperfedtions, will not 
 want an advocate among the literati. 
 
 And here he was about to congratulate himfelf on 
 having gained fo cflential a point. To the private 
 approbation of Mr. Reed of Staples-Inn, was the 
 author conlirmed in the hope of fuccefs, and to his 
 open recommendation of this work to fome who knew 
 the value of Mr. Reed's judgment, the reader, pro- 
 
 3 bably,
 
 ADVERTISEMENT. ix 
 
 bably, owes that it is now fubmitted to his view. To 
 the friendfhip of Mr. Braithwaite of the Poft-Office, 
 he may place this, and other material helps he has 
 experienced in the courfe of publication. But he 
 fhould afk thefe gentlemen's forgivenefs, for involving 
 them in a queftion, where their names are ufed lefs 
 to their advantage than to that of the author. 
 
 It behoves him to fay a word or two on the head of 
 the Plates. His knowledge of drawing is fo confined, 
 that more than a fketch of the places through which 
 he paffed, exceeded the author's art. The antiquities? 
 of Egypt have given employment to the pencils of aj 
 Norden and a Pococke, and were not to be expeded- 
 from the title of thefe travels. But drawings of par-^ 
 ticular fcenes, in which he was engaged, and repre- 
 fentations of the fingular cuftoms of the country,, 
 would have brought them forward to the. reader's eye. 
 He mufi: ever lament the deficiency of his work in; 
 this refpedt : but he is happy at the fame time to ob- 
 ferve, that there is a remedy at hand, for thofe who 
 delight in novel pidlures. The reputation of Mr.- 
 Dalton, his Majefty's antiquarian, was efbablifhed bv 
 the work which he produced in 1752, confiding of 
 plates of various antiquities in Greece and Egypt, 
 The connoifTeurs, therefore, are not likely to be dif- 
 appointed in the Supplement to that work,, which Mr. 
 
 b Dalton
 
 X ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 Dalton is about to publifli. The defigns which re- 
 late to Egypt, obtained as they muft have been with 
 great difficuhy, and executed as they are with great 
 fpirit, will prove fuch an elucidation to his labors,' 
 that the author muft beg Mr. Dalton's pardon, if he 
 prefiimes to recommend thofe defigns to the reader, 
 which are fo peculiarly adapted to this work, that 
 nothino; but its unworthinefs fliould divide them from 
 each other. 
 
 He has but one thing more to add, which concerns 
 the companions of his travels. To the two gentle- 
 men who accompanied him to Europe, he trufts an 
 apology is necdlefs, as they will readily acquit him 
 of a delign to pay any but a proper tribute to their 
 characflers. By the other perfon, whom the hand of 
 mifchance feparated from their company, he would 
 wi(h to be underftood. The circumftances which 
 produced that feparation fhould have been buried in 
 oblivion, had not a regard for his own honor obliged 
 the author to place the intentions of his companions 
 and himfelf in their true light. The narrative of that 
 affair — as it appears in this work — was figned by Major 
 Henry Alexander, Mr. Anthony Hammond, and the au- 
 thor, and tranfmitted to India at the time. The paper 
 may have mifcarried, but the parties are alive to teftify 
 the fad. All that delicacy and humanity could fug- 
 
 5 geft.
 
 ADVERTISEMENT. xi 
 
 geft, has been obferved on the occafion. The name 
 of the unhappy perfon is fupprefled, and felf-vindica- 
 tion alone could have induced him to revive a fub-' 
 
 » 
 
 jed:, w^hich more nearly afFeded the author and 
 his companions, than all their fubfequent misfor- 
 tunes ! 
 
 To conclude. Were books, any more than men,, 
 to be judged only by their good intentions — 'Were no 
 regard to be paid to the figure which they make in 
 the world — this work would have a better chance to 
 maintain its ground. But as there are other points to 
 be confidered ; as truth can only be rendered effica- 
 cious in an amiable drefs, and as the juftefl defcrip- 
 tions muft be difgraced by inelegant language, the 
 author cannot diveft himfelf of certain fenfations, 
 which muft difturb the firmeft mind, on the eve of 
 committing its thoughts to the difcufTion of the 
 public 
 
 b 2 CON-
 
 C O N T E NTS. 
 
 LETTER I. Page i. 
 
 yl DDR ESS — T&e author purfues his voyage from Madras to Suez 
 '^ — Tedious pajfage acrofs the Indian ocean. — Makes the ijland of 
 Socotra, Cape Guardafoy, the Arabian Jhore — Enters theRedfea by 
 the Jl raits of Babelmandel — Hard Gale — Arrival in Mocha road — 
 Occurrences at that city — Embarks again — Contrary winds — The 
 vejjel driven by currents on the Arabian coajl — In imminent danger 
 •of being wrecked among the Jhoals and breakers — Obliged to put into 
 It he port of Tambo for a pilot — The author y &c. feduced ajhore, 
 and made prifoners by the vizier of that place — Incidents during 
 their confinement — The craft and villainy of the Arabs apparent in 
 their attempts to pojfefs t hen f elves of the vefj'el — Stratagem for that 
 purpofe — Its fuccefs — The vejfel brought into the harbor , and the 
 author, ^c. return aboard under a guard, until an anfwer is received 
 from the Xerif of Mecca, touching their dejiiny — A defer iption of 
 ■the town and environs of Tambo — Interviews with the vizier — In- 
 fiances of his duplicity and pride — Various difappointments in the 
 hope of a fpeedy anfwer — The Jhawbunder of fudda at length ar- 
 rives, charged with powers from the Xerif, to difpofe of the vejfel 
 and crew — Negociations on that head — The veffel is carried to fud- 
 da, under charge of an Arabian pilot, and the author and his 
 felhw-t ravcllers are allowed to proceed— -Prefents to the vizier on 
 .this cccafion — Egregioiifly impofed upon by this minifier in the hire 
 of a vejfel — Thty embark on an open I oat for Suez. 
 
 7 Journal
 
 CONTENTS. xlii 
 
 'journal of the boat Impofition — Detained by contrary winds at the 
 month of the harbor — Alarm at the fiidden difappearance of one of 
 the author's fellow-travellers and the interpreter — They are fent 
 back to the boat by the vizier — The boat fails to the northward, and 
 puts into a bay on the coaji — Encounters two barks bound to the 
 fouthward — Unhappy Jympto?ns of a difordered mind appear in thegen- 
 . tlcman who abfconded — He awakens the apprehenfons of the Arabs ^ 
 who infjl on his quitting the boat, and returning on one of the barks 
 to fuddii — The abfolute necejjity of complying with this requifition — 
 The dijlrefs of the author and his companions on this melancholy oc- 
 cafion — The boat fails again — 'Difficulties of this extraordinary na- 
 vigation — Touches at fever al ijlands on the Arabian csajl — Tedious 
 pajfage to the gulf of Akaba — Strange injlance of the notion of the 
 dominion ofevilfpirits — Makes thefiore adjacent to Mount Sinai — 
 Cape Mahoitiet — "Enters the gulf oj Suez — The boat is run over to 
 the Egyptian fiore in the night, and injlead of Suez, by the trea- 
 chery of the Arabs, is carried to Cofre, a port of Upper Egypt, 
 near four degrees to the fouthward, of Suez — The -vexation' of the 
 author and his companions — Conch fion. 
 
 LETTER II. Page 119. 
 
 ^ D D RES S — The author, &c. land at Co/ire — Their reciption 
 and accommodation there — Occurrences at that place — The de- 
 mands of the government for its proteBion of our travellers — Unac- 
 countable behavior of the Arab Jliaik — They fet out with the cara- 
 van for Ghinnah on the Nile, under the care of the Jhaik^s fon — 
 Part with the caravan — Alarm — Inconveniency of this mode of 
 travelling — Intenfe heat of the fun — They replenijh their /kins atjbme 
 fprings — Purfue their way, and experience extreme di/lrefs from 
 thirjl, heat, and fatigue — Relieved by their arrival at the Nile-— 
 Surprized at being carried to Banute injlead of Ghiunah — Remon- 
 Jirate with the young Jhaik, who confents to take them to that city — 
 
 Set
 
 XIV 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Set out accordingly, and infix hours arefnfely houfed at Ghinnah-^ 
 Tlje '■cillainy of their hojl and his family — Are vifted by the vizier 
 of the place — Attempts to choufe them out of their money and effeSls 
 — Find thenifelves chfe prifoncrs — T^hcir baggage fe arched and re- 
 peatedly pillaged by the hojl and his affociates — Vifit from the ha~ . 
 keem of the city, by the order of his majier, the Shaik Ul Arab-— 
 Enquiry into their wrongs — Tumult in the houfe on that account-^ 
 Uncommon inflance of courage and fidelity in an Arab domeftic — 'The 
 hakeem removes our travellers to his own habitation — He is fup~ 
 planted in his office by an Abyffinian, who, at the exprefs commands . 
 of the Jliaik, takes them under his protedlion — The meannefs and 
 rapacity oftbisfave — Advice comes to Ghiiinah of a robbery and 
 murder committed on their late inhuman hojl, in a difpute with the 
 young paik of Cofire about his ill-gotten booty — RefeSlions on fhis^ 
 tragical event — The arrival of the Shaik Ul Arab — His interview 
 with our travellers — His perfon and character defcribed — His po- 
 ll tenefs and humanity — Exemplary injlances of his impartiality and 
 jujlice — Unhappy Jiate of the country of Egypt — Rebellion on the- 
 Nile — The paJJ'age to Cairo by the river flmt up — Doubts how to- 
 proceed — Our travellers refolve to purfue their route through the 
 defarts ofThebais — Are confirmed in this intention by the good Jloaik, 
 who provides them with a conductor, and ejfentially interefis himfelf 
 in their f of ety — They take leave of their generous benefaSlor, and 
 enter the defarts with a body of fix teen — The rugged and mountain- 
 ous face of the country — Unexpectedly fall in with a party of ca- 
 mels, which proves to be a band of robbers, journeying from the Red- 
 fea towards Cairo — A treaty concluded with the captain of the rob- 
 bers — An Arab feafi — The two parties proceed in company — Diffi- 
 culties of the road — Continual ranges of mountains every where pre- 
 fent themfelves to the traveller — Sudden tranfit ions from heat to cold 
 in the courfe of the journey — Replenijh their water-fiiins twice in the 
 defart — Provifions begin to fail with the author and his companions. 
 
 — Readily
 
 CONTENTS. XV 
 
 '—Readily relieved by the robbers — Their forbearance and Jiri^ ob- 
 fervance of their word — Halt in the neighborhood of the Nile to 
 procure water— Alarm — Strike iiito the defart, andpafs over rocks 
 cf granite or Thebaic marble — Obtain a fght of the Nile, and come 
 upon the encampment of the- robbers — The author, &c. part ivith 
 thefe fingular people — 'Remarks on their kofpifality- and good faith — ■ 
 Rejoin the Nile — Travel on its banks — Pafs the villages ofVel'Ha- 
 die and Ifcour, and difcern the pyramids to the wejiw'ard of the river 
 —Halt at Tinnah, and engage a boat to convey them the rchiaining 
 Jliort dijlance — foyfuUy embark for the capital— Happy arrival 
 there, ajtd friendly reception by the Company's agent. 
 Occurrences at Grand Cairo — Curfory obfervatioJzs on the city and its 
 antiquities — Concife narrative of the late revolution in Egypt-— Our 
 travellers return letters and prefenfs to the worthy Shaik Ul Arab 
 by the camels, and em bark for Alexandria — Delightful voyage down 
 the Nile — Review of the tow?ts and cowttry on its banks — Arrive at 
 Rofetto — Beauty of its fit uation — The road to Alexandria infejied 
 with robbers — Reimbark in a boat bound to that port — Critical 
 fituation at the bogage, or mouth of the Nile — The boat Jlrikes 
 the fands, but luckily efcapes, and enters the Mediterranean—- 
 Dreary appearance of the coaji of Egypt — They fafely reach 
 Alexandria, after a pajfage of fixteen hours — Some account of thitt 
 city, a?id the elegant remains in its neighborhood — Droll anecdote 
 offome Englijlj captains-^ AffeSling Jiory of the death of the late 
 French Conful of Alexandria — Occurrences at that city — The au- 
 thor and his companions embark on a French Jhip for Marfeiller- 
 •—Conclufion — Pojlfcript. 
 
 APPENDIX. Page 394. 
 
 ■0 
 
 yJN Ode to the Defart, and another to the Nile, referred n 
 this place from the body of the Work,
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 Page 17. Line 2. for cab'm read cabbm. 
 
 — -^ do. —— — 8. for fhipwrecked read wrecked. 
 
 123. 10. for vif.rors read vifitors. 
 
 178. — — 12. for eat read eaten. 
 
 — — 238. ig.for human read humane. 
 
 ■ 267. 21. for were readv/zs. 
 
 ■ 356. 10. for Neiburh read Nicbuhr.. 
 
 'Lately Publi/hed for J. Dodsley, 
 
 By the Author of this Work, 
 
 Saint Thomas's Mount, a Poem, 2 s. 6 d» 
 Bedukah, a Poem, 2 s. 6d. 
 Eaftern Eclogues, a Potm, 2 s. 6 d.
 
 A 
 
 SERIES OF ADVENTURES, &c. 
 
 IN THE YEAR M.DCC.LXXVII. 
 IN LETTERS TO A LADY. 
 
 LETTER I. 
 
 MADAM, 
 
 WERE ability fubfervient to inclination, were the efforts 
 of the heart to be feconded by the efforts of the ima- 
 gination, I fhould with lefs fcruple begin upon the 
 tafk which you have allotted me. But the feas which I have 
 paffed, and the fands which I have wandered over, appear now 
 to have been fraught with lefs danger than the adventure I am 
 about to engage in. Once launched into the literary world, 
 what has not a poor author to fear from the blalls of ridicule, 
 and the rocks of envy ! But as the want of an oflentatious dif- 
 play has fecured my footfleps from the affault of the wild Arab, 
 fo may I hope, that the modefty of my pretenfions may prove 
 my paflport through the wafte of criticifm. Happy at all events, 
 in the profpedt of your influence, to protect the flrain that is 
 guided by truth, and owes its exiftence to the commands of 
 friendfliip. 
 
 B The
 
 [ ^ ] 
 
 The occunences of our voyage from Madras to Mocha, are 
 like the generality of fea-affairs, too trivial to become intereft- 
 ing, and too unvaried to afford amufement. Since the fables of 
 the ancients have been banifhed our creed, a modern voyager 
 finds it difficult to diverfify or embellifli his journal. Neptune 
 ceafes to affert his empire over the waves, and Amphitrite no 
 longer fkims the furface of the deep, feated in a coral chariot 
 drawn by Mermaids, and furrounded by a choir of mufical 
 Nereids. A ftorm therefore lofes the majefty which a Divinity 
 would give it ; and our calms are really dull, for want of the 
 company of fuch a beautiful Goddefs. I queftion whether the 
 voyage of iEneas, if deprived of thefe fiflitious ornaments, 
 would not become equally infipid with thofe publilhed by recent 
 difcoverers, whofe heroes vifited people more ftrange, and feas 
 more remote than JEneas, and encountered gulphs far more 
 dangerous than Scylla or Charybdis ! 
 
 There was nothing remarkable in our paffage to Mocha, but 
 the length of it. We were above eight weeks in efte6ting a 
 pafiage, which frequently requires but three. The latenefs of tlie 
 feafon made us apprehenfive of delays, but not the continual 
 ones we met with. At feveral periods we thought of nothing 
 lefs than of getting to Suez by water. My fellow-travellers and 
 myfelf were, however, refolved to profecute our journey by 
 land, fhould the fnow Adventure reach any port in the Red- 
 Sea. But the fight of land prefented us witli better pro- 
 fpe(5ls. 
 
 Wc had been two-and-foity days in crofling the wide ocean 
 which divides India from Africa, when on the 31ft of March 
 we faw indiftin6lly the ifland of Socotra, which lies about 
 35 leagues from the main. On the 2d of April we made Cape 
 Guardafoy, which is a prodigious mountainous and craggy 
 fliore. From hence we flood over to the coaft of Arabia, and 
 
 by
 
 A 3 ] 
 
 by an eafterly current, were driven fo far towards the ocean, 
 tliat it was the 6th before we part Cape Aden. Here the re- 
 mains of a Portuguefe fort are ftill vifible, which is an humi- 
 liating monument of their former fuperiority in thefe parts. 
 On the 9th we ran through the flraits of Babelmandel, with, a 
 fine gale, which, joined to a ftrong current, fet us through in 
 a quarter of an hour. There is a very ugly, fea in thefe ftraits, 
 and they being the ufual entrance into the Red-Sea, I have 
 annexed a plate of them, which was drawn upon the fpot. 
 Velfels may pafs to the weftward of the iiland, but this is at- 
 tended with danger. The gale encreafed to fuch a degree, that 
 we were fain to run under the land at noon, in a bay about 
 half-way between the ftraits and Mocha. Here we rode out 
 a very violent ftorm, and thought ourfelves lucky in being fo 
 well flieltered from the fury of it. The wind abated a little at 
 day-break on the loth, when we weighed and ftood for Mocha. 
 Though ftill boifterous, the wind was fortunately fair, and 
 we were not many hours in running the diftance. At twelve 
 o'clock we dropped our anchor in Mocha road, but were obliged 
 to wait until the weather moderated, before we ventured to de- 
 bark. The month of April was advanced, but we went afliore 
 at Mocha the fame evening, in full confidence of being agreeably 
 accommodated to Suez, on board the Adventure. We looked 
 only upon the brighter fide of the perfpeftive ; as the difficulties 
 and dangers annexed to a journey of 11 or 1200 miles by land, 
 along a barren and barbarous coaft, could afford us no very 
 pleafmg reflections. 
 
 Mocha, the ancient capital of Arabia Felix, is fituated upon a 
 fandy foil, about 12 leagues from the ftraits of Babelman- 
 del, and in the latitude of 13° 15' north. This city is of 
 great antiquity, and difplays a very handfome appearance to- 
 wards the fea. But its beauty will not bear a clofe inlpcclion. 
 
 B 2 Like
 
 [ 4 ] 
 
 tj'ike the deformities which are fo frequently difcovered beneath 
 a fair exterior, the infide of its buildings is by no means an- 
 fvverable to the expe6lations which they raife. To furvey the 
 defart on which it ftands, a ftranger muft be furprized at the 
 plenty which reigns in the markets. There is not a tree within 
 ken, that produces any fruit, but the dale, or herbage of any 
 kind, to fupport the cattle which are daily expofed for fale. 
 But to the fimplicity of the Arabian manners this circumftance 
 is to be attributed. Where the natives are content with the 
 coarfeil food that a country produces, it is no wonder that the 
 more delicate viands are readily procured, by the few Europeans 
 who vifit their fliores. And indeed, when we are informed that 
 the fheep which are fold here, are all brought from the oppofite 
 coaft of AbyfTmia, and the fimpleft vegetable, at no lefs a dif- 
 tance than fifteen miles from Mocha, conjefVure would lofe itfelf 
 in accounting for fuch plenty, were a clue not given to unravel 
 the myftery. 
 
 ■ Mocha is under the authority of a governor, as the Imaun, 
 
 who unites the offices of high-prieft and king of Arabia Felix, 
 
 always refides at Sennaa, a city about ten days journey from 
 
 hence, delightfully fituated in a valley, with which this moun- 
 
 'lainous country abounds. The Turks have loft the influence 
 
 which they formerly poffefled in this kingdom. They feem 
 
 content, at prefent, to receive their proportion of the duties of 
 
 the other provinces of Arabia, without pretending to exert the 
 
 arbitrary fwray, which marks their government in the diftrifts 
 
 that are more imsdiately within the reach of their arms. There 
 
 is one privilege that the Imaun claims here, which cuftom has 
 
 rendered familiar to the fubje6ls of a defpotic ftate, however op- 
 
 jbreflive it may appear to the ideas of an European. He has 
 
 an^'indifputable property in all horfe-flefli. So that if a ftranger 
 
 takes a liking to an horfe, it is of no confequence to whom 
 
 it
 
 [ 5 ] 
 
 it belongs, provided he be content to pay the price, which the 
 governor may fix on it in the name of his mafter. But the 
 owner is feldom expofed to the mortificacion of being obliged to 
 part with his property : the value of the beaft, however beau- 
 tiful it may be, feldom proving in the leaft adequate to the price 
 which is demanded for it. 
 
 In their horfes the chief pleafure and pride of the Arabs 
 confift. Pampered to an excefs that renders them fitter for 
 Ihew than ufe, they ftand in the ftable, or are picketted at the 
 doors of their mafters, from one fabbath-day to another. But 
 on this feftival, they are adorned with a load of rich and un- 
 wieldy furniture, with which they parade the ftreets from 
 morning to night : and they now receive the only exercife which 
 they are permitted to take. The governor's flud, which confifts 
 of a number of choice horfes, are particularly drawn up in the 
 fquare before his houfe. They are oppofed to each other in 
 fquadrons, and at the word of command, the riders fet off at 
 full gallop, and as they pafs each other, dart the pike or fpear 
 with great dexterity. 
 
 We paid a cuftomary vifit to the governor on our landing, 
 and found him to be a grave and elderly man, meager in his 
 body, and flovenly in his apparel. But with this unpromifing 
 appearance, he has the chara£ler of being a very good and in- 
 telligent man ; and much more inquifitive after the manners and 
 difcoveries of European nations, than the generality of his coun- 
 trymen. This peculiarity in his difpofition plainly evinces itfelf 
 in the furniture of his audience chamber, which is ornamented 
 with a broken figured clock, a French thermometer, and an 
 Englifh quadrant. He received us very politely, and is a pro- 
 feffed friend of the Englifh nation, whofe genius and fpirit he 
 affects to admire. This piece of intelligence we obtanied from 
 our refident here, who at the fame time communicated to us 
 
 an
 
 [ 6 ] 
 
 \n anecdote of his life, which is not unworthy of mention. "It 
 not only carries with it an evidence of the intriguing temper of 
 %e Arabs, but fets off to advantage the character of a man, 
 to whom the Englifli are materially obliged. 
 
 In the reign of the father of the prefent king of Sennaa, this 
 man was the vizier and favorite. So univerfally was his ad- 
 miniftration approved of, and fo neceflary did the old king 
 think him to the welfare of the Hate, that he recommended him 
 on his death-bed to the protection of his fon, in the moft 
 earneft terms. The prince was deeply impreffed with a charge 
 delivered to him at fo folemn a moment, and promifed his fa- 
 ther, to make the knowledge and advice of the vizier the 
 fole guides of his future life. And to this promife he veiy 
 faithfully adhered, for fome years after his acceflion to the 
 throne. 
 
 In the courfe of this time, the young monarch had formed in- 
 confiderate attachments for courtiers of his own age and difpofi- 
 tion. Though this did not immediately interfere with the mi- 
 nifter's influence in matters of government, it neverthelefs fug- 
 gefted, to a difcerning mind, the approaches of negleft and dif- 
 *^ace. To prevent the execution, therefore, of what he confi- 
 "dered as inevitable, fhould he continue in his prefent office, he 
 very wifely formed the refolution of retiring from court. A re- 
 folution infpired by the foundeft philofophy, wavered not un- 
 til an opportunity offered to put it into practice. 
 
 One day when he was alone with the king, he took the li- 
 berty to fpeak of the length of his fervices, and of the decline 
 of his life. He touched modeftly upon his known affeflion, 
 and zeal for the honor of his fovereign ; and befpoke his ma- 
 jefty's indulgence for the petition which he was about to prefer. 
 He concluded with an humble defire, that he might be per- 
 mitted to refign his truft to one, whofe faculties and health 
 c were
 
 [ 7 ] 
 
 were more vigorous, and able to tranfadt the important affairs, 
 in which he had been fo long employed. The better to cover 
 his delign, he afFe6ted an inclination to vifit Mocha, where he 
 purpofed to remain until his name was forgotten, and that time 
 fhould weaken the malice of a faftion, which is the infeparable 
 attendant of the belt adminiftration. It was not without reluc- 
 tance, that the king complied with this unexpefled requell. 
 He had a particular value and refpe6l for the minifter, and was 
 not prepared to forego his fervices, although the latter had been 
 artful enough to recommend for his fucceffor, one of the chief 
 favorites of his mafter. The ftruggle, however, was of no long 
 continuance. The king's pride was touched at the idea of being 
 at a lofs for a fervant, and he haftened to inveft the very favourite 
 who had been pointed out to him, with the dignity of the abdi- 
 cated miniiler. 
 
 But little did the minifter dream of the confequences of this 
 refignation. Little did he forefee, that his fucceffor would lay 
 hold of the wifli which he had expreffed to vifit Mocha, to 
 load him again with the cares of government ; where his in- 
 fluence would be confiderably leffened, though bis dignity would 
 appear greater than before. No fooner had the new vizier 
 poffeffed himfelf of his office, than he was determined to re- 
 move for ever, fo virtuous an obferver of his adminiftra- 
 tion. Poifon or the fword, was too dangerous an implement, 
 againft fuch a charader. He had recourfe to a remedy which 
 wholly anfwered his intentions ; and, by blinding the eyes 
 of his fovereign, and advancing the opinion of his principles 
 among the vulgar, muft be held as a maftcrpiece of courtly 
 artifice. 
 
 With the greateft appearance of warmth, therefore, he repre- 
 fented to the king the outcry which would be raifed againft 
 him, ftiould he fuffer an old fervant of his father's, and the 
 
 guardian
 
 [ 8 ] 
 
 guardian of his own youth, to vifit Mocha, without being dif- 
 tinguiflied by fome public charader. He then infinuated the 
 lucky occafion which prefented itfelf, to reward his fenaces 
 with the government of that city. It was impoffible to fufpefl 
 the treachery of this advice ; and it is not wonderful, that the 
 monarch greedily took the bait. He that very day forwarded a 
 commiflion to Mocha, which the old man had the mortification 
 to find, on his arrival here. To him, however, the trick was 
 obvious. He readily dived into the fcheme of his fucceffor, who, 
 judging of others from himfelf, had taken an unnecelTary ftep 
 to detach him fi'om the vanity of court-favor. The vexation of 
 the governor is not to be defcribed. But rather than difturb 
 the peace of his mafter with complaints, he has the virtue to 
 encounter the fatigues of bufinefs, though repugnant to his in- 
 clinations ; and is content to live a voluntaiy exile from his na- 
 tive place, fecure of the afFe6lion of the people, and confcious 
 of the elleem of the king. A king ! who flill continues under 
 the delufion of having preferred a faithful fubje<5l, agreeably to 
 his own choice. What a leflbn fhould this be to the fovereigns 
 of more enlightened nations ! who may juftly apprehend the in- 
 trigues of defigning men, when the refinements of party prevail 
 within the narrow fcope of Arabian poUtics 1 
 
 The women in Arabia are kept in much flricler confinement, 
 than thofe of their religion in India. The females of rank are 
 Ihut up in their apartments, and never ftir abroad, except now 
 and then, to accompany their huibands on an excurfion to the 
 vallies. They are vailed at thefe times from head to foot, and 
 fent off upon horfeback under cover of the night. But this fim- 
 ple recreation does not fall often to their lot. The civilized 
 Arabs are, of all nations, the Icaft incHncd to action; and it is 
 to be fuppofed, that women born here, hve and die, without 
 ftirring out of the walls of Mocha : fuch is the tax that is laid 
 
 on
 
 r 9 ] 
 
 on birth and greatnefs, even in the remote country of Arabia, 
 How then can we be furprized at the vexations, which cloud the 
 lives of the followers of a powerful court ? if female beauty be 
 doomed to folitude in thefe rude parts, is not the liberty which 
 is allowed it in more polifhed countries, too often the fource of 
 calamities more grievous than confinement, of perfecutions 
 more intolerable than the commands of an imperious mafler ? I 
 doubt not, but there is many a toaft that blazes in the circle of 
 St. James's, that fighs for the privilege of obfcurity, and would 
 willingly hide the remains of a fliattered reputation in an Ara- 
 bian feraglio ! 
 
 To thofe of a lower degree, there is fome deviation permitted 
 from the feverity of this cuftom. Though there are no public 
 Hummums for the women to refort to as in Turkey, they are in- 
 dulged with the freedom of vifuing their neighbors, when the 
 dulk of the evening can Ikreen their perfons from obfervation : 
 for the thick vails in which their faces are buried, utterly pre- 
 clude the poflibility of diftinguifhing their features. We have 
 met them ourfelves in the ftreets, and have conceived a favora- 
 ble idea -of their faces, from the fymmetry of their figures. 
 
 Incontinence is held much more criminal among the fingle 
 than married females. Though adultery is punifhed with a 
 heavy fine, the feduftion of a virgin is attended by a more feri- 
 ous correction. In this they differ from the laws of more en- 
 lightened kingdoms, where an injury of this nature, is not only 
 unpunifliable by any courfe of law, but the matter itfelf is treated 
 in a very light manner. And here the chara6ter of the Arabian 
 legiflator rifes far beyond the boafted policy of European ftates. 
 To his juftice it is owing, that the deftruclion of innocence is 
 held in fuch abhorrence ; and to his re6litude of thinking, that 
 the mere accompUce of a lewd woman fliould encounter lefs ri- 
 gorous treatment, than the mean betrayer of unexperienced fim- 
 
 C plicity.
 
 [ 10 ] 
 
 plicity. How juft this obfeivation may be, I fubmlt with plea« 
 Aire to the decifion of a lady, who can fo charitably diflinguifh 
 between the follies and vices of her fex ; and who can feparate 
 the errors of inexperience from the impulfes of a depraved in- 
 clination ! 
 
 We v^^ere furprized at the number of Chriftian renegadoes 
 that refide at Mocha. Not, that the apoftacy of men, who- 
 perhaps had no fenfe of religion until they profelTed Mahome- 
 tanifm, could provoke our wonder; but how their worldly inte- 
 refts could be advanced by the change. Reduced to a pitiful fub- 
 fiftence, and held in deferved contempt by the natives, we fliould 
 have furmifed their defeftion to be merely the effedls of defpair ; 
 and that the fugitives from juftice alone, fought their fafety at this 
 price, had not the example of a Greek prieft fomewhat fhaicen 
 our opinion. This prieft, by name Ananias, I remember to 
 have heard mentioned in Bengal, as a miracle of piety. And 
 yet in the feventieth year of his age, did he publicly abjure the 
 Chriftian religion, in the courfe of a pilgrimage to Mount Sinai. 
 He was circumcifed, and received into the Mahometan church j 
 and, to crown the whole of this ftrangc proceeding, was led about 
 the city for three days, according to cuftom, mounted on an, 
 afs, to receive the alms of the faithful, which eveiy convert is 
 entitled to on his admiffion to their myfteries. This happened 
 during our ftiort ftay at Mocha ; and is one of the greateft in- 
 ftances of the infirmity of human nature, which has come within 
 the fphere of my obfervation. 
 
 The Englifli are the only nation who have a refident here ; 
 and this is but a late regulation. The Eaft India Company were 
 accuftomed to fend a fliip here eveiy feafon ; but now the coffee 
 is tranfported on country bottoms to Bombay, from whence our 
 Indiamen convey it to Europe. By this plan they are eafed of 
 a confiderable expence ; as the appointments of fupercargoes to 
 
 this
 
 [ " ] 
 
 this ftation, and the heavy duties of this port, mull: have leffened 
 the advantages which refult from this trade. No better means 
 could have been devifed to ingratiate ourfelves with the natives, 
 than the appointment of a refxdent among them. It is a plea- 
 fure to me to add, that nothing could have better enfured the 
 end in view, than the choice of the prefent gentleman who fills 
 that poft. His mild demeanor cannot fail to engage the efteem 
 of the people ; as his acknowledged abilities will lead him to 
 im.prove every occafion, to reftore this drooping branch of com- 
 merce to its original value. Neither is the prefence of Mr. 
 Horfeley at Mocha, of lefs moment to the interefts of travellers, 
 who prefer this fliort cut to Europe, to the old track by the 
 Cape of Good Hope. Hofpitality and politenefs are acceptable in 
 all places, but doubly fo to the way-worn traveller, who the leaft 
 expe6ls to meet with them in a remote and uncivilized region. 
 
 I have annexed a view of the town and fuburbs of Mocha, 
 which I took from our vefTel on the day of our arrival here. 
 There is a wall runs round the town, but there are no cannon 
 mounted on it, except a few on a battery towards the fea. The 
 northern and fouthern extremities of the town are flanked by 
 two callles of a circular form, which are likevvife ornamented 
 with guns, and were meant as a defence to the place. How much 
 thefe Arabian engineers were miilaken in their ideas of fortifica- 
 tion, will clearly appear from a circumftance, which occurred 
 here about fix or feven years ago, and will fet their pretenfions 
 to power in a proper light. 
 
 The captain of a trading veffel from India, was afliore at the 
 Englifli faftory, and correcting a flave for fome fault or other, 
 the boy ran away, and took refuge in an Arabian houfe, where 
 he was prevailed upon to become a Mahometan. In this countiy 
 no Chriftian is permitted to keep a flave of this perfuafion. The 
 boy availed himfelf of this privilege, and went abroad again, 
 
 C 2 without
 
 [ 12 ] 
 
 without any fear of his mafter's refentment. One day, how- 
 ever, as he ventured to pafs the fa(5lory, he was obferved by the 
 captain, whofe Enghfli blood boiled with indignation at this 
 feeming infult. Unheedful of his fituation, he gave way to a- 
 fudden impulfe of paflion, and ordered his fervants to feize the 
 boy, and flog him feverely within the yard of the fadlory. This 
 rafh aftion could not efcape notice, and was attended by con- 
 fequences which he little expe6led. The fa6loiy was at that 
 time uninhabited, except by the fupercargoes and captains during 
 their fliort fl:ay here. It was not in the beft repair, and but little 
 calculated to make a defence. The mob, which now gathered 
 about it, eafily forced the gates ; and not finding the objedl- of" 
 their refearch, whom they meant to have facrificed on the fpot, 
 contented themfelves with plundering his effects. On the firft 
 alarm, the captain wifely retreated to the terrace of the factory j 
 and it was with no little difficulty, that he efcaped along the 
 roofs of the houfes to the fea-fide, where he immediately took a- 
 boat for his vefiel. 
 
 This diflurbance was too fudden to have been checked under- 
 the beft-regulated government ; but it might have been reme- 
 died : fatisfa6Vion might have been made to the fufferer, had the 
 governor been inclined to do him juftice. A deaf ear was turned 
 to his remonftrances, and the captain was obliged to carry his 
 complaint to Bombay : here, to the honour of the Britifh name, 
 it was properly attended to. The councils were vigorous ; and 
 two floops of war were diredlly fitted out for Mocha, to enforce 
 redrefs. They accordingly appeared before the town, with all 
 the implements for a bombardment ; and a meflage was fent 
 afliore, to advertife the governor of their errand. It is impof- 
 fible to conceive the terror of the inhabitants at thefe tidings. 
 They deferted the caftles, which they had once confidered as im- 
 pregnable, and were about to quit the city itfelf ; but this the 
 
 governor
 
 r 13 J 
 
 governor prevented. He thought proper to comply with the 
 demands, which were made in the name of the fufFerer, and 
 fent off 4,000 dollars to the commodore of the expedition j 
 happy, to preferve the city from deftru6lion, and to appeafe the 
 refentment of the Englifh, at fo cheap a rate. And even the 
 money to make good this payment, was raifed unjuftly, though 
 it was to fatisfy a juft demand. The Banian, or Gentoo mer- 
 chants who are fettled h«re, and tranfaft all the bufmefs of the 
 port, fell within the gripe of government on this occafion. They 
 have alTured us more than once, that they were obliged to ad- 
 vance the fum in queftion, for which they have not yet been 
 fatisfied. It is necefiary to add, that this occurrence, fo dif- 
 graceful in its nature, was antecedent to the adminiftration of 
 the prefent governor j of whofe character I have had occafion to 
 Ipeak in the moft favorable terms. 
 
 To thefe Banians we were obliged for a part of our amufe- 
 ments at this place. There is a wood of date-trees, which ex- 
 tends from the fouthern fuburbs of Mocha, for fome miles 
 towards the inland mountains. There is no mark of cultivation 
 in this neighborhood befides ; and in this wood, one of the 
 principal Banians has a country feat. We have no conveyance 
 here, except affes, on which we ride about for our diverfion. In 
 one of our excurfions we called at this feat, which is above 
 three miles from the town, and on our way home, had an oppor- 
 tunity of obferving a curious procefs in the vegetable world. 
 It has already been taken notice of by naturalifts, but is too un- 
 common to be known to readers of every clafs. The date-trees 
 were now in blofTom j and we remarked the Arabs to be bufied 
 about the branches. It is neceflary to ingraft all fruit-trees, to 
 obtain good fruit ; but the propagation of the date is in another 
 manner, and intimately refembles that of the animal creation. 
 There is a male as well as female date- tree, which are diflinguifhed 
 
 from
 
 [ 14 ] 
 
 from each other by the color and (hape of the bloflbms. The 
 male ti-ee yields no fruit ; but the gardener muft be careful, every 
 fpring, to cull as many bloffoms from the male, as will ferve his 
 purpofe. One of thefe at leaft he muft inwrap and bind up iti 
 a bloflbm of the female tree ; without which ftie will prove as 
 barren as the male. The Angularity of this operation is height- 
 ened by its being difcovered by a people, who are at prefent 
 groflly ignorant of every branch of natural philofophy *, 
 
 It is to our refident that I am indebted for an ingenious 
 conje6lure, relative to the barren coafts of Arabia Felix, with 
 which I lliall clofe my remaks on this celebrated territory. For 
 the fpace of fifteen or fixteen miles from the beach, the land 
 rifes on a gradual afcent towards the foot of the mountains. 
 Here the fcene fuddenly changes from a fandy wafte, to a ver- 
 dant and fertile foil ; from a fcarcity of palatable water, to a 
 profufion of chryftal fprings and running ftreams. In this defart 
 barrier there are found quantities of fliells, and other produ6lions 
 of the ocean, which feem to have lain there for many ages : this, 
 joined to the fhelving appearance of the ground, renders the idea 
 very probable, that this tra£l of land has been won from the fea, by 
 the fecret operations of nature. There is, indeed, no informa- 
 tion to be gathered of this event, among a people whofe annals 
 carry no perfpicuity with them, beyond the days of their prophet. 
 But the perpendicular fliores of the oppofite coaft of Africa, 
 upon which the waters may have proportionably encroached, are 
 an additional evidence in favor of this opinion. No ftranger, 
 in traverfmg this Ihore, could polTibly conceive her right to the 
 
 * There is little force in this compliment, v/hen it is known that the Egyptians 
 have fo far improved on this mode, as to plant only a male date-tree in the middle 
 of many females. The wind fcatters the male feed, which impregnates the female 
 tree, without the trouble of the Arabian culture. 
 
 title
 
 [ 15 ] 
 
 title of Happy. But place him in her middle regions, beneath her 
 balm -dropping woods, and amidft her delightful vales, where 
 the fruits of every climate court his tafte, and the breezes of 
 caffia refrefh his fenfcs, and he will pronounce, that fhe juftly 
 retains the flattering appellation with which flie was honored by 
 the antients- 
 
 On the 1 6th of April we had completed our wood and water, 
 and taken on board a fufRcient ftock of provifion to ferve us on 
 our paflage. We chearfully embarked, therefore, on the Adven- 
 ture, captain Bacon, and with an additional paffenger from India, 
 Ipread our falls for the long-wiflied-for port of Suez. For fome 
 days we were favored with a fair breeze, and moderate weather : 
 but the wind changed fuddenly to the northward, and began to 
 blow with great violence againft us. The moon was now at the 
 foil, and we were to look for a continuance of the gale. In 
 narrow feas the waters are foon agitated -, and we experienced 
 fuch a difagreeable motion, from the inceflant working of the 
 vefTel, that fome of my fellow-paffengers were again confined to 
 their cabbins. As for my own part, I have had the good for- 
 tune to be free from ficknefs during our tedious voyage, if I 
 except an head-ach of four-days flanding, which I confider, in- 
 deed, as a natural infirmity. Our hopes were once more revived, 
 from the winds abating. We were by this time in the latitude 
 of Judda ; and though the wind was flill contrary, we made a 
 fhift to creep on daily towards our defired port. Our greateft 
 progrefs was from ten to twenty miles in our way. We could 
 not, with propriety, run more than thirty miles upon one tack ; 
 and it was our cuilom to make one fliore about fun-fet, then to 
 tack, and ftand for the oppofite fide, until day-break. 
 
 We had beaten up in this manner, to the 24th degree of north 
 latitude, and were within 150 leagues of Suez, when, in the 
 afternoon of the 6th of May, we difcovered breakers ahead. The 
 
 o veflel's
 
 1 i6 ] 
 
 vefTel's head was to the north-eaft, and the captain judged him*- 
 felf, from his journal, to be in mid-channel. It may be fup- 
 pofed, therefore, that this circumftance much alarmed us, as 
 nothing but a ftrong eafterly current, could have thrown us 
 among the rocks and ftioals, with which this part of the Arabian 
 coaft abounds. Nor were our fears without foundation. The 
 weather had been fo hazy all day, that we could fcarcely fee two 
 leagues diftance. The veflel had been put about at the alarm 
 before recited, aiKi we were failing with great fecurity towards 
 the open fea, when the departing fun warned us of the de- 
 ftru6lion on which we were running. The Iky cleared up for a 
 moment as the fun fet, and prefented to our view, a line of 
 rocks and flioals immediately before us, and on which, in a 
 quarter of an hour, we muft have flruck, had not Providence, 
 in this unexpected manner, delivered us from the ravenous deep. 
 The moll experienced among us were appalled at this fight. We 
 had breakers to tlie northward and weftward of us, and an un- 
 known coaft to the eaft. Tlie wind fortunately favoring the 
 only fafe courfe which was now left us, the veflel wore and 
 ftood to the fouthwaid ; her two boats being fent a mile ahead to 
 lead the way. In this manner we proceeded until midnight, 
 when one of the boats fired a gun, as a fignal of diftrefs. Our 
 fails were backed on this alarm -, and the boat prefently bore 
 down to inform us, that flie heard the furf break clofe to her, 
 and that there was no ground with fifty fathom of line. Our 
 danger now became preffing. We were expofed to impending 
 deftruction while the veflTel was in motion, and there was no 
 probability of finding anchorage for her on this coaft. 
 
 In this dilemma the vefiel's head was put towards the land. 
 The weather happily continued moderate, and we made a fliift 
 to fteer clear of the perils that encircled us, though not with- 
 out frequent alarms . So defperate did our fituation appear, fo 
 
 few
 
 [ ^7 ] 
 
 few were the chances of fafety, that about two in the mornhig 
 I retired to my cabin, and fecured what Httle money and va- 
 luables I could conveniently carry about me. I loaded my pif- 
 tols, and took out a packet of confequence from my cheft, which 
 I kept by me, in expeflation of the vefTel's ftriking on the rocks. 
 In cafe of fuch an accident, we were only to truft to our boats 
 for our deliverance. This we had learnt from the captain and 
 officers of the fnow Aurora, which was fhipwrecked on this 
 part of the coaft, not fix months preceding our arrival. We 
 met them at Mocha on their return to India ; and were advifed 
 of the particulars of their difafter, which doubled our appre- 
 henfions at the prefent crifis. The Aurora had been {landing, 
 like us, for the Arabian coaft, and juft before day-break, fhe 
 ftruck, without the leaft warning, on a funken rock. By the 
 violence of the wind, flie was driven fo far upon the rock, as to 
 bulge her bows, while at her ftern no ground was to be found with 
 ninety fathom of line. It was impoffible that the veflel could 
 hold long together in this pofition ; and the captain and crew 
 had fcarcely time to take to their boats, when fhe feparated and 
 went down. There was an ifland in view, to which they made, 
 and which would have preferved them from fhipwreck, had the 
 day broke but half an hour fooner. But we were at length re- 
 lieved from our perplexity. With conftant founding we hit 
 upon a narrow bank in fifty fathom, and joyfully dropped an 
 anchor at four^in the morning. There was no ground, however, 
 to be found by the boats that founded round the velTel. The 
 bottom was rocky ; and fhould the wind frefhen, there was little 
 dependance to be placed upon our anchor. Our fatisfadlion 
 confequently was imperfe6l and precarious. 
 
 The light, which had been fo long expefted, now dawned, and 
 enabled us at leaft, to difcover the dangers that lurked around 
 us. As the fun rofe over the coaft, we plainly difcerned the 
 
 D mountains
 
 [ i8 ] 
 
 mountains of Arabia j and to the fplendor of that glorious lu- 
 minary, we were once more indebted for a gleam of hope, to 
 revive our drooping fjjirits. We haftened therefore to take ad- 
 vantage of this inteUigence. We weighed our anchor, with as 
 much expedition as the depth of water would admit of, and u^ere 
 rejoiced to get it fafe on board again. Our courfe was ftill di- 
 re(Sed towards the land, which was often obfcured by the miils 
 which hung over it. About noon we were clofe enough to dil^ 
 tinguifh a large town, which, from our charts, we concluded to 
 be Yambo. To this town we attempted to get. After various 
 intricate traverfes, as the channel between the lands and rocks 
 occafioned, we arrived at the mouth of the harbour, without 
 which there is no ground, though the boats founded at the edge 
 of the flioals. 
 
 And now did we heartily congratulate ourfelves on the con- 
 clufion of our troubles. We had heard at Mocha of the hof- 
 pitality of this port, from the very perfons who had owed to the 
 inhabitants, their life and freedom. Captain Adams, and the 
 furvivors of the fnow Aurora before mentioned, had been re- 
 leafed by the governor of Yambo fixsm the hands of the wild 
 Arabs. Thefe banditti had feized them, on their reaching the 
 continent in their boat, ftripped them of their cloaths, and 
 brought them here with a view of felling them. Not content 
 with this aft of humanity, he had furnifhed them with camels, 
 and generoully fupplied them with money and neceffaries to carry 
 them to Judda, where they were certain of finding Englifli 
 veflels. Nay, the very commerce that is carried on between the 
 Enghfli and the inhabitants of Judda, which, as well as Yambo/ 
 is fubjedl to the Xerif of Mecca, difpelled any doubt which might 
 arife concerning the good faith of thefe people. We knew that 
 there were feveral Englifli veflels at Judda at the very time. We 
 had landed a confiderable fum of money at Mocha, which was a 
 
 prefent
 
 [ 19 ] 
 
 prefent from the nabob of the Carnatic to the temple of Mecca ;■ 
 and we doubted not of meeting with the mofl: favorable treat- 
 ment at a place, which is in the neighborhood of Medina.' 
 How dim is the perception of mortals ! What avails their boafted 
 fagacity ! Their funds of lettered knowledge ! Their idle dreams 
 of fecurity ! What appears the moft reconcileable to their judg- 
 ment, turns out in the experiment, to have been trufted without 
 caufe, and embraced without the evidence of convi6lion ! 
 
 I have been the more particular in recapitulating the circum- 
 fVances, on which we built a confidence in thefe people, as 
 there are not wanting perfons, idle and malicious enough, to 
 condemn even the fteps, by which their fellow-creatures have 
 entailed mifery and deftruftion upon themfelves. The captain 
 would have been cenfured for bringing his veffel into an un- 
 civilized port, and the credulity of the paflengers held up in a 
 ridiculous light, for trufting themfelves among a favage tribe, 
 unverfed in the tender offices of humanity, and unreftrained by 
 the laws of focial life. And to fuch this recital will be of ufe. 
 While the generous breaft fliall plead our caufe, and make al- 
 lowances for the frailty of our natures, thofe worfe than Arab 
 fpirits fliall be robbed of the enjoyment of their fpleen, and of 
 liberty to pafs fentence upon us, unheard. Entangled in a chain 
 of fands and rocks, without a correal chart to direft us, or a 
 leaman on board acquainted with the path of fafety, there re- 
 mained no alternative but to enter a port, that feemed to open 
 her friendly arms for our relief. We were certain there were 
 pilots here who could condu6l us to Suez ; and to efcape fhip- 
 wreck at fea, neceffity would have obliged us to hazard flaughter 
 afliore, even had we not been taught to look for the moft hof-' 
 pitable reception. It will appear in the courfe of this narrative, 
 that had we not confidered the velTel's fafety prior to our own, 
 our lives had probably never been endangered, and we had 
 
 D z efcaped
 
 r 20 ] 
 
 ♦fcaped a fund of trouble and difquietude. But to our ig- 
 norance of the Arabian policy mull: our conduct be attributed, 
 and that oppofition, which brought us to the brink of de- 
 ftruclion. 
 
 As the adventures which befel us in this place, were either im- 
 mediately committed to paper, or as foon as I could regain a 
 communication with the pen, I will beg leave to deviate from the 
 mode which I have hitherto obferved, and keep a diary of our 
 future tranfaclions. A tale of diltrefs is not only more intereft- 
 ing when thus divided, but more capable of fpirit and accuracy. 
 I afk not the colours of fidlion to heighten a pi6lure, which 
 cannot fail to afFe6l, when reprefented by the fimpleft touches 
 of nature ! 
 
 W E D N E S D A Y, 7th May 1777. 
 
 On the afternoon of this day we anchored at the entrance of 
 Yambo harbor. We had fcarcely taken a view of the town 
 through our glaffes, when we perceived a boat rowing towards 
 us, which brought on board, an Arab of a venerable and plealing 
 afpedt. His appearance befpoke him of no common rank, and 
 we prefently found that he was a Shaik, and one of the members 
 of government. This perfonage was charged with the compli- 
 ments of the governor, or as he is here fly led, the Vizier of Yambo, 
 and his congratulations on our arrival in a port, where we fhould 
 want for nothing tliat was in his power to afford. Refrefliments 
 we were in little need of. But our fpirits were elated with the 
 proffer of a pilot, which the vizier juftly divined to be the motive 
 of our errand. 
 
 In a few minutes a fecond boat reached our vefTel, from 
 which afcended an Abyffinian flave, handfomely cloathed and 
 armed after the fafhdon of the country. He proved to be one of 
 
 the
 
 C 21 J 
 
 the vizier's guard, and came with an invitation from his maftet^ 
 to favor him with our company on fliore. We were much taken 
 with the freedom of thefe people's behavior ; and though they 
 acknowledged to us, that no European veffel had put into their 
 port before, we entertained no diftruft of their fmcerity, and 
 readily promifed to take advantage of the vizier's politenefs. 
 There were feveral of us in the fhip who talked the Moor lan- 
 guage, and were equally deceived by the old fliaik, who was a 
 Patau, and underftood it perfe6lly. He converfed with fuch 
 eafe and gravity of face, that the eye of fufpicion might have 
 been lulled afleep, and age itfelf relaxed of its feverity of opinion. 
 
 After regaling them with coffee and tea, of which they wil- 
 lingly partook, we difmiffed them with advice of our intentions 
 to go on fhore in the morning. The preliminaries were adjufted ; 
 and we agreed to falute the fort at fun-rife, when thefe meilen- 
 gers promifed to come on board for us. 
 
 . THURSDAY, 8th May. 
 
 I was awakened this morning by the veflel's falute, whicli 
 was irregularly returned by the fort. As foon as breakfaft was 
 over, I went into the long-boat with the captain, two fupercar- 
 goes, our interpreter, and three paflengers, who are bound for 
 England as well as myfelf. We were accompanied by our fer- 
 vants in a filher-boat, and about the middle of the harbor, were 
 met by the old fhaik, the Abyffinian, and others of the vizier's 
 train, who had been fent to condu6t us afliore. As we pafTed a 
 decayed caftle on an angle of the fort, a very laughable incident 
 occurred. A gun was fired from thence to welcome us to Yam- 
 bo i but fuch a quantity of rubbifh fell down from the fhock, 
 and fuch a duft obfcured the place, as immediately interrupted 
 
 the
 
 [ 22 ] 
 
 the falute, and Induced the garrifon to confult theii- own fafety, 
 by an omiflion of the compliment intended us. Indeed, fo 
 ruinous an appearance did the walls and buildings of this town 
 exhibit, which had not probably been repaired fmce the days o£ 
 Mahomet, that our contempt of it increafed to a degree, that 
 would have ridiculed the idea of danger. At our landing we 
 were met by fome officers of the viziers houlhold, and ufhered 
 in great ftate to an apartment by the fea-ilde. Here were allem- 
 bled fundiy of the principal inhabitants, who were feated on 
 cai-pets, agreeably to the oriental cuftom. There were chairs 
 provided for our reception, and we were ferved with coffee and 
 perfumes. 
 
 After an hour's delay, at which we were fomewhat furprized, 
 but have fmce been able to account for, the vizier fent to ac- 
 quaint us of his being ready to fee us. We were accordingly at- 
 tended in the fame manner as before, to a building within the 
 fort, and introduced to this minifter. He received us fitting ; 
 it being unufual with the Arabs to rife up, to falute thofe of an 
 inferior rank. We advanced however, towards him, by the di- 
 re£lion of our interpreter j on which he put his right hand to 
 his breaft with a flight inclination of his head, and gave it to 
 each of us, as a token of his amity. Of all the Muffulmen 
 whom I have yet feen, the vizier of Yambo is the faireft. With- 
 out the mixture of red and white, that diflinguifties Europeans 
 from Afiatics, his complexion did not yield to any of our com- 
 pany. His eyes black and fparkling ; his nofe aquiline, and his 
 countenance cxpreffive of great fweetnefs and fenlibilit}-. He 
 feemed to be between thirty and forty years of age, and was not 
 the leaft embarraffed by the prefence of ftrangers, whom he only 
 knew by report. We had been furprized at the deportment of 
 tlie vizier's fervants yefterday. But that was a fcene of little 
 
 admiration, 
 
 3
 
 [ 23 ] 
 admiration, when compared with the audience we now obtained. 
 The impreflion will never be effaced from my mind. The 
 powers of Garrick would, if poflible, fall Ihort, to fupport the; 
 countenance and addrefs of the vizier during an interview of 
 two hours, in which fuch complicated deceit and villainy were 
 ufed, as throw the crooked politics of Machiavel far behind ! 
 
 After the firft ceremonies were over, and the coffee and per- 
 fumes brought in, the vizier repeated his offers of afliftance. 
 He profefled a great refpeft for the Englifh nation, and a regard 
 for the nabob of Arcot — in whole fervice the captain had de- 
 clared himfelf — for his generous attention to tlie poor of Mecca. 
 He flattered us with the profpedl of getting eafily to Suez j, 
 and as we were in want of a pilot, he fent for the captain of the 
 port, to examine him in our prefence, touching our future paf* 
 fage. Nothing could be more plaufible than this behavior. 
 We were profufe In our acknowledgments of the minifter's 
 goodnefs, and little imagined that the man who was fummoned 
 before us, had been tutored for the purpofe, during our ftay at 
 the fhaik's houfe. 
 
 In a fhort time this ofKcer appeared, and was queflioned by 
 the vizier himfelf on the certainty and length of our voyage to 
 Suez. The particulars of this converfation were conveyed to 
 us by our interpreter, who flood between them. It had long 
 been our fear, that the foutherly winds were exhaufted, and 
 that the northerly monfoon was about to fet in; which would 
 inevitably prevent our further progrefs. And it was on thefe 
 points that the pilot infifled. He expreffed his doubts of 
 making the pafTage, and his apprehenfions of endangering an 
 Englifh veffel ; the confequence of which he could not anfwen 
 At length he pofitively declined the undertaking, as hazardous 
 and impra6licable. Much argument did the vizier ufe to render 
 him compHant. He threw out the lure of the reward, which 
 
 his
 
 [ 24 ] 
 
 his fuccefs woucl entitle him' to j and even afFeifled to be (hocked 
 at his prelumption and pufiUanimity. He fubmitted the matter 
 to ourfelves, and offered, if we pleafed, to fend the pilot in 
 irons on board our veffel. To this violence it may be fuppofed, 
 we univerfally diffented -, at the fame time that we declared our 
 fenfe of this mark of tlie minifter's friendfhip. The head pilot 
 was therefore difmifled, and another fent for, whom the vizier 
 pretended to judge would be more tra6table. But with him 
 we had no better fuccefs. He was equally backward with the 
 former, to take charge of the veffel ; and after much futile per- 
 fuafion, the minifler turned round to us in feeming trouble, and 
 expreffed his regret at our bad fortune. 
 
 The captain now totally abandoned all thoughts of proceeding 
 further ; and was content with the promife of a pilot to carry 
 him to Judda ; the port to which the fliip was ordered, in cafe 
 of the lofs of her pafTage to Suez. The travellers deflined for 
 Europe, now preferred their petition. We requefled a boat, to 
 tranfport us to Suez with our baggage ; and informed the vizier 
 of our being feverally charged with packets for tlae Eall India 
 Company, both from the nabob of Arcot and the governor of 
 Madras. To this he gave a gracious aflent j and the pilot en- 
 gaged to fit out a boat for us in five days. Nay, the price of his 
 trouble was fixed at 50 dollars, which apparently exceeded his ex- 
 pectations. Our conference had been fpun out to a great length, 
 and as our bufinefs was difpatched, we made a motion to retire. 
 It was our intention to have repaired immediately to the veffel, 
 where dinner was provided : but the vizier acquainted us at our 
 departure, that he had directed refrefhmcnts to be prepared for 
 vs at the fliaik's houfe, of which he hoped we vvoul<^ partake. 
 As the day was pretty far advanced, and we travellers were 
 anxious to adjuft the particulars of our voyage with the pilot, 
 we unwittingly Ivvallowed the bait which was thrown out for 
 
 9 us.
 
 [ 25 ] 
 
 US, and returned with the old fhaik to his houfe, little dream- 
 ing that it would become the theatre of our troubles ! 
 
 On a candid review of the foregoing fcene, even on the very 
 day it occurred, I cannot charge my memory with a fmgle cir- 
 cumftance, by which the fmcerity of the vizier was liable to 
 fufpicion. So well was the plot laid, with fuch addrcfs did the 
 principal chara6lers conduft themfelves, that never fiction fo 
 happily afllimed the air of truth. The flightefl alarm would 
 probably have prevented the confequences which enfued, as 
 none of us imagine the fhaik or his attendants were authorized 
 to oppofe our departure, had we made an effort to regain our 
 boat, inftead of returning to the houfe of our conductor. But 
 we were lulled into a fecurity, that was particularly ftrength- 
 ened on the part of ns travellers, from an information which 
 the vizier gave us. Two Englifh gentlemen had been recom- 
 mended to his good offices by the Xerif his mafter ; and he had 
 difpatched them with a packet to Suez, but a few days before 
 our arrival. This circumftance encouraged our hopes. We 
 conceived the packet to be the fame, which a captain Dibdin 
 was charged with from the ufurped adminiftration at Madras ; 
 and we were emulous of not being outftripped in a race, where 
 we contended without reproach. 
 
 We had not been half an hour at the fhaik's houfe, when 
 a mefTenger came to fummon our interpreter to the vizier's 
 prefence. This man was an Arab by birth, and had performed 
 a pilgrimage to Mecca; an aft of devotion which every true 
 Muffulman undertakes, either in perfon or by proxy, before he 
 dies. From this he had obtained the title of Hadgy. He was 
 a flirewd fenfible fell ow, and proved of infinite fervice to us in 
 the fequel, by letting us into the defigns of his countrymen. 
 He returned after a fhort abfence, with evident marks of fur- 
 prize in his countenance, which foon communicated itfelf to 
 
 E our
 
 [ 26 ] 
 
 our breafts, by the meflage he brought. It imported, that the 
 vizier could render us no afliftartce, until he received an order 
 from the Xerif of Mecca concerning usj and that it would be 
 advifeable for the captain to dire6l the officer on board, to 
 bring the veffel into the harbor. Such a contradiction in his 
 conduft immediately opened our eyes to the wrong that was in- 
 tended us ; and we began to think of the beft method, to ex- 
 tricate ourfelves from the fnare we had fallen into. A retreat to 
 our boat naturally fuggefted itfelf : but our deliberations were 
 foon interrupted, by one of the company obferving from a win- 
 dow, that there was a guard upon the houfe. To be certified 
 of this, I walked through an area that led to the gateway, 
 which I found befet by a troop of foldiers. There was now no- 
 thing left us, but to put the beft face on the matter. We fent 
 the interpreter back to the vizier, with expoftulations on the 
 duplicity of his behavior. We reminded him^of our having 
 come afliore at his own invitation ; and that he could not de- 
 tain us, without a violation of the law of nations, and of hof- 
 pitality : for a regard to which the Arabs were uni\'erfally ce- 
 lebrated. We demanded, what bufinefs he or his mafter could 
 have with a vefl'el, which had not entered their port, and was in 
 want of nothing but a pilot, which it was at their option to 
 afford her. We obferved the odium that would attend fuch pro- 
 ceedings towards the property of a prince, to whom the Xerif was 
 fo much indebted, both in refpecb to the commerce which he 
 carried on with the port of Judda, and the very valuable prefent 
 that our vellel had brought for the temple of Mecca. Finally, 
 we warned him, not to offer any infult to the Britifh flag, which 
 the moft barbarous nations had been taught to refpect. The 
 interpreter was likewife charged to demand an audience for the 
 captain, that he might argue the matter with the vizier. But 
 this effort was unfuccefsful. The poor fellow came back with a 
 
 Z long
 
 [ 27 ] 
 
 long face, and brought a ftii6l injundion to the captain, to or- 
 der the veffel into the harbor, and a defire that we would make 
 ourfelves eafy, until the orders refpe6ling us arrived, which 
 would be in fix days at furtheft. The captain's fuit was declined, 
 on pretence of the vizier's being engaged with company. 
 
 We now confulted upon the fteps to be taken in this exi- 
 gency. Our junftion with the fliip was infallibly cut off. The 
 mariners who had been left to take care of the boat, had by this 
 time, been fent to the place of our confinement. From them 
 we learnt, that our boat was carried to an unknown part, at 
 the moment of their feizure. Our own detention was confe- 
 quently confirmed, and the efcape of the veffel from the hands 
 of thefe robbers — for fuch we regarded them — was the point 
 to which we turned our views. Indeed, we confidered her as 
 the anchor by which our lives were held. It was JmpofTible to 
 anfwer for the forbearance or humanity of people, who had 
 broken through the mofl facred precept of their religion, in 
 their treatment of us, fhould they once get the veffel into their 
 poffefTion, by whofe means alone the circumflances of our de- 
 tention could be brought to light. With our concurrence there- 
 fore, the captain wrote a pofitive order to his chief mate, to 
 weigh or flip his anchor, with the firfl favorable wind, make 
 the beft of his way to Judda, and there communicate our flory 
 to the captains of the Englifh vefTels. And even this fcheme 
 appeared to us by no means as fafe or feafible. The veffel lay 
 in a narrow channel, with fhoals and breakers on each fide of 
 her ; and the northerly winds prevailed the greateft part of the 
 day, which obfliu6f-ed her departure. Add to this, that her paf- 
 fage to Judda was dangerous without a pilot ; to the chance of 
 procuring which, the ofHcer mufl have trufted to the coafting 
 boats. But all obflacles funk under the preffure of necefflty^ The 
 captain and fupercargoes were more particularly interefled in the 
 
 E 2 preiervation
 
 [ 28 ] 
 
 jprefervation of the veffel and cargo ; and among the valuables that 
 the paffengers had on board, I chiefly confidered a packet, which 
 a noble friend * had entrufted to a fellow-traveller and myfelf. 
 We wtre, perhaps, fingular in our concern for fome moveable 
 or other. But we were unanimous in our defire, that the veffel 
 li'hich contained it, fliould get beyond the reach of thefe fpoilers. 
 
 While our interpreter was difpatched with this letter to the 
 vizier, to give a very oppofite explanation of the contents, 
 which their \itter ignorance of our language enabled him to do 
 with fecurity, we fate down upon a carpet, to partake of a fru- 
 gal meal which the old fhaik had fet before us. It confifted of 
 flewed mutton, garniftied with raw onions. Flat cakes of flour 
 were our plates, and our fingers fl:ood us in Heu of knives and 
 forks. Notwithftanding the agitation of our minds, and this 
 unufual method of eating, we made a fliift to clear the difli in a 
 few minutes, to the no fmall admiration of the fliaik and his 
 attendants. The natives of Arabia are very temperate in their 
 diet ; and though we found that the lower clafs would drink 
 fpirituous liquors to excefs, we have reafon to believe, that 
 the better fort generally adhere to the precept of the Alcoran, 
 which forbids the ufe of them. Pure water is their common 
 draught, and with this we were obliged to crown our meal. 
 
 Our watches had advifed us of its being paft five o'clock, when 
 the interpreter returned with an order to the fliaik, to fend a boat 
 off with the letter. It now occurred to us, that the captain 
 had better proffer himfelf to execute the vizier's pleafure. His 
 efcape would have proved an additional fecurity to the veffel ; 
 and though we almoft defpaired of fuccefs, we omitted not our 
 endeavors to carry this point. The captain and the two fuper- 
 cargoes were feparately propofed to be the bearer of the orders ; 
 but all that we could obtain, in the courfe of two hours folici- 
 
 * The right honorable Lord Pigot. 
 
 tation.
 
 [ 29 ] 
 
 tation, was leave for a fervant to go off with the letter. It was 
 now near eight o'clock, and we had the further mortifica- 
 tion to be kept in fufpence an hour longer, before the boat was 
 ready. We felt for the fituation of the officers on board, who 
 had expe6led our return to dinner, and had received no intelli- 
 gence from us fmce we had been afhore. We knew not what 
 defigns might be concerting againft the vefTel, which lay within 
 half a mile of the coaft ; and until the officers aboard were cau- 
 tioned of the danger, our general fate was undetermined. Night 
 had thrown her fable curtains around us, and treachery and ftrata- 
 gem, which fhun the light, might now be bufy for our deftru6lion. 
 We were entangled in thofe toils, with which the dauntlefs lion 
 ftruggles in vain. The pale glimmering of a lamp ferved juft 
 to afford us a fight of each other, and the pofture of a part of 
 our guard, who had civilly intruded themfelves into the room, 
 where gentlemen, fervants, and mariners, to the number of twen- 
 ty, were crouded together. The fea furrounded three fides of our 
 prifon, and the other was fecured by a ftrong body, armed with 
 matchlocks, piftols, and fabres. Though it afterwards appeared, 
 that our fituation could be more alarming than at this period, 
 I fhould think fuch another hour clearly purchafed with the 
 wealth of the eaft. I can truly affirm, that when death feemed 
 unavoidable, when the miniflers of vengeance flood ready to 
 perform its mandate, my thoughts were more collected, and my 
 refolution more confirmed. So preferable is the knowledge of the 
 worft which can befall us, to a ftate of uncertainty ! 
 
 But our minds were at length relieved by the arrival of the 
 boat, which took our fervant from the window of our apart- 
 ment. A defperate fcheme now fuggefted itfelf for our efcape, 
 but was rcjedled, on a conviiflion of its folly. There was a guard 
 in the boat as well as in our room ; and we had obferved fol- 
 diers planted on the walls, as fpies upon our motions. To have 
 
 regained
 
 [ 30 ] 
 
 regained our Avords, the only weapons we had brought afhore, 
 we muil have betrayed our defign. To make the attempt un- 
 armed, would have been worfe than madnefs. We therefore con- 
 tented ourfelves with adding verbal inftru£lions to the fervant, for 
 the officer's pofitive departure, and prepared to take that repofe, 
 which the circumftances we were under, might allow of. But 
 here, we reckoned without our hoft. Sleep and we were not 
 fo near, as we expelled. The boat had not long left us, when 
 we obferved fome of the domeftics remove the carpets, which 
 had been fpread for our beds. We had not time to indulge our 
 conje6lures on this incident, when the old flaaik appeared, and 
 with much apparent concern acquainted us, that it was the 
 vizier's order, we ihould be confined in an upper apartment 
 of the houfe during the night. The place to which he pointed, 
 was a tower, againfl which our very natures revolted. The or- 
 der itfelf had a black appearance -, and though it turned out to 
 be only meant for the better fecuring our perfons, it is no 
 wonder that fome among us fliould attribute it to be a proje6l, 
 for the readier perpetration of their villainous purpofes. In 
 fliort, it was agreed upon to oppofe the execution of this order 
 to the utmoft; and though a6lual refiftance was equally vain 
 and hopelefs, we found the good efFefts of not tamely fubmitting 
 to this indignity. The fhaik was charged to tell the vizier,, 
 that we would not go to the dungeon allotted us, unlefs com- 
 pelled by force of arms ; and again to warn him of treating us 
 harfhly. And this commiffion was fo faithfully executed, that in 
 about an hour, our carpets were returned to us, and we were 
 delivered from further perfecution for the prefent.. 
 
 Our fpirits were much raifed by the fuccefs of this meafure ; 
 and we began to entertain hopes that no violence was intended 
 us. Our late diftrefs became the fubjedt of mirth ; and we af- 
 fe^ed to regret, that our ftory would not be enriched with the 
 
 adventure
 
 [ 31 ] 
 
 adventure of the round' tower. We betook oiirfelves, without 
 repining, to our humble lodging on the ground ; and I enjoyed 
 a very comfortable nap until day-break, although my noftrils 
 were plentifully regaled with the fumes of tobacco, from the 
 pipe of one of our guard, who had taken poll in the feat of a 
 window above me. 
 
 FRIDAY, 9th May. 
 
 When I awoke this morning, I found our fervant had re- 
 turned, with an anfwer from the chief mate ; which expreffed 
 his concern for our fituation, and his intention to get away 
 with the firfl favorable wind, agreeably to the captain's direc- 
 tions. This was very pleafmg intelligence ; and we drank the 
 coffee which was now brought us, without complaining of its 
 being unpalatable. The Arabs never adulterate their coffee with 
 fugar or milk. Thefe are quite an European addition; as is 
 the cafe likewife with refpe6l to tea, which is drank pure in 
 China. I muft acknowledge, that I prefer our method of pre- 
 paring thefe articles of luxury; but were we to ufe tea and 
 coffee in fuch quantities as the natives of thofe countries, we 
 fhould neither find them pleafant nor falutary, when mixed , 
 with other ingredients. There is fcarce an hour paffes in the 
 day, that coffee is not ferved up here; and their coloons, or 
 pipes, are never from their mouths, but when they are at meals 
 or afleep. 
 
 Our attention was engaged the whole morning towards our 
 veffel, which we could fee very plainly from the windows of 
 our apartment. The wind began to blow from the northward ac- 
 cording to cuftom, and before noon encreafed with Tuch vio- 
 lence, as not only to cut off the poffibility of her departure, but, 
 
 even
 
 [ 32 ] 
 
 even to alarm us for her fafety ; as fhe rode without the har- 
 bor, and lay expofed to all the fury of the fea and weather. 
 We now plotted for the recovery of our boat ; the abfence of 
 which, with the prime part of her crew, might occafion the lofs 
 of the veflel, in cafe of her parting her cable. For this purpofc 
 we difpatched our interpreter to the vizier, who was entrufted 
 to exprefs to him our doubts of the officer's obedience. We 
 remarked that the wind blew into the harbor, and the velfel had 
 made no motion to weigh her anchor and ftand in ; and we at- 
 tributed the officer's backwardnefs to his entertaining a notion, 
 that the orders which he had received, had been extorted front 
 us. As a means, therefore, of fatisfying him, we propofed that 
 the vizier would permit our boat and mariners to go on board, 
 with a fecond order from the captain, and a declaration of our 
 having done nothing by compulfion. At the fame time we in- 
 fmuated, that the fight of our boat and people would overcome 
 any fcruples, which the officer might have harbored in his 
 breaft. 
 
 The whole day was fpent in this negotiation, and we . began 
 to think it would prove fruitlefs, when this crafty minifter was 
 foiled at his own weapons, and allowed himfelf to be egregioufly 
 duped. An Arab boat with a guard, however, was ordered to 
 accompany ours ; and the captain wrote a fecond letter to the 
 officer, conjuring him to depart by the firft opportunity, and 
 to detain the fhip's boat, and return our fervant on the other. 
 He alfo dire6led him to appear enraged at the contents of the 
 letter, and to declare to the Arabs that he would fail at day- 
 break. We took this opportunity to fend on board for a Ihift 
 or two of linen j a convenience which we had been two days 
 debarred of, and which, in other circumftances, would have been 
 lufficiently diftreffing in a warm climate. I had feveral valuables 
 
 5 about
 
 C 33 ] 
 
 about me ; but I had not a thought of prefervhig any thing from 
 pillage, except the pi(5lure of a dear iifter, which I had worn 
 for many years about my neck. From this bofom-friend did I 
 now refolve to part ; and the moft fenfible pang which I en- 
 dured in our captivity, was at the moment of my delivering this 
 pidture into the hands of the fervant, who was going off to the 
 veiTel. I was afliamed of my weaknefs, and retired to a window 
 in order to conceal a tear, which rofe in my own defpite, from 
 the fountain of afFeftion ! 
 
 We were entertained by our hofpitable fliaik with a dinner^ 
 fmiilar to that of yeflerday ; with the addition however of water- 
 melons, which are much larger and finer here than in India. 
 It is but doing him juftice to fay, that he has behaved to us with 
 the greateft civility and attention j infomuch, that our food is 
 frequently ferved up with his own hands. We were inquifitivc 
 about the vizier's intentions, but could get nothing out of the 
 old man, except exhortations to patience, and hopes of a fpeedy 
 anfwer from Mecca. The fufpence we live in, is the greateft 
 hardfliip which we labor under. In other refpefts, our fitua- 
 tion is as comfortable as prifoners could expe6l. Our very 
 guard are as civil as their manners will admit of -, and though 
 their prefence is troublefome enough, we have hitherto met with 
 none of thofe infults, which the petty tyrants of our own coun- 
 try are fo apt to exercife over the poor wretches in their cuf- 
 tody. Though we have fallen into the hands of an arbitrary 
 government, we have not become the prey of its fervile and un- 
 feeling inftruments. 
 
 About nine o'clock at night we were advertized of the return 
 of the Arab boat, but without our fervant or Hnen -, the Arabs 
 having been fo intimidated at the officer's affeftation of anger, as 
 to leave the vefiel with precipitation. This news was commu- 
 
 F nicated
 
 [ 34 ] 
 
 nicated to us by our hoft, who feemed much furprized at the 
 prefumption of the officer towards his captain, which he could 
 by no means reconcile to his own ideas, of fuboi dination to his 
 -fuperiors. Our only concern was the want of the linen, and 
 fome liquors that we had fent for. But we confoled ourfelves 
 with the thoughts of procuring them in the morning by fome acci'- 
 dent or other j and in the mean time compofed ourfelves to reH:. 
 
 SATURDAY, icth May. 
 
 - loTbe' lafl: raght was pafled in the fame manner as the firft, ex- 
 .cept that we were lefs crouded, by the departure of our boat's crew j 
 a circumflance not immaterial in an hot climate, where our apart- 
 ment did not meafure more than fixteen feet by ten. I rofe be- 
 »fore day-break, and going out on a fmall terrace bounded by the 
 fea, for the benefit of the morning airi was furprized at' the 
 found of female voices, which feemed at no great diftance. I 
 looked up, and found it to proceed from the windows above me; 
 ■the. lattices of which were now open, and filled with women. 
 Thefe were members of the old fliaik's family, and I little ima- 
 gined that we could meet with fuch treatment in the neighbor- 
 hood of a feraglio. We had accefs to but one room in this^man- 
 iionj the upper part of which was confeerated to beauty, under 
 equal reftraint with ourfelves. Had we been polfefFed of the 
 true fpirit of chivaliy, we fhould have gloried in our fate, that 
 enabled us to wear the fame chains which enflaved the fair : 
 and, rcgardlefs of our own dcftiny, we fhould only have refolved 
 hov/ to deliver thefe captive damfels from their-enchanted caftle. 
 But alas 1 tliere was no Quixote among us ; and we fliall remain 
 as a fignal iaftance of the degeneracy of thefe latiter times. . 
 I liilened attentively to thele females, who were very earneftly 
 
 engaged;
 
 [ 35 ] 
 
 engaged ; and though I am a flranger to the Arabic language, I 
 judged from the motions wliich they made ufe of, that we were 
 the fubje(5fs of their difcourfe. I even flattered. mylelf, that they 
 were touched with pity at our fituation, from the tones of their 
 voices at certain intervals ; and, though the romantic notions I 
 entertain of tlie general tendernefs and benevolence of woman- 
 kind, may have rendered me too fanguine in this particular, I 
 have not the leaft doubt but they interefted themfelves in our 
 fafety. and would have contributed towards our efcape. As 
 the light dawned they found themfelves obferved, and retired 
 from the windows, but not without many refpeftful obeifances 
 and looks of commiferation. 
 
 About {even o'clock the vefTel fired a gun and loofed her 
 foretopfail, the cuftomary fignals for failing : and we received a 
 letter from the officer to this eftc6f. This he had fent by our 
 fmall boat with two failors, whom he could well fpare to pro-; 
 vide for our neceffities, which were become prelfmg. We now 
 go*: a meflage from the vizier, demanding the refult of the offi- 
 ce's determination. To this we replied, that he ftill denied the 
 captain's authority over him, and was on the point of failing 
 for Judda, with the account of our detention. Had this defign 
 been fortunately executed, the .end which we had in view, would 
 probably have been anfwered : for feeing his prey efcape him, 
 which, was the fliip, the vizier would, it is to be prefumed, have 
 lent us after her in our boat, as lumber too unv/orthy to be 
 vvith-held. 
 
 By this time the veffel was in motion. T]:e rocks had cut her 
 cable as her crew were weighing her anchor, and Ihe fwung bo- 
 dily towards a reef of breakers, before they could bring her up 
 with another anchor. At this moment we tafted the bitternefs- 
 of anguilh. We plainly i'aw the veffel driving on deilruftion, 
 and ifood idle fpectators of a misfortune beyond our power to 
 
 F 2 avert.
 
 '[36 ] 
 
 .avert. Our captain himfelf, a man of fkill and experience, gave 
 her up as loft ; and we vented the ebulHtions of our rage, in 
 impotent threats, and idle imprecations on the author of our 
 diftrefs. The horrors of our fituation rufhed at once upon our 
 minds. All hopes of relief would perifli with the veflel, and 
 we be left at the mercy of a race, the profefled enemies of our 
 religion. The fears of dete6lion might infpire them with the 
 worft defigns ; and though our lives might be remitted us, the 
 more grievous alternative of pining away our days in flavery,, 
 cut off from a communication with our friends and country, 
 might be our portion. Nor were thefe the weak fuggeftions 
 of defpair. Every thing confpired to darken the profpeft be- 
 fore us. Our hoft and guard had caught the alarm, and painted 
 the danger of the veffel in fuch ftrong colors to the vizier, 
 as induced him to permit us to fend our boat to her aflift- 
 ance. We gladly availed ourfelves of this circumftance, though 
 the immediate danger was over before the boat reached the vef- 
 fel, which now rode at anchor within a fathom of the rocks. 
 Had the wind encreafed as ufual, her refpite would have been 
 but fhort. But Providence decreed otherwife. The weather 
 proved fo moderate the whole day, as to allow the officer to 
 warp her into her old birth again. 
 
 While he was employed in a tafk that calmed the perturbation 
 we were under, we obferved a ftrange boat pafs near him, and 
 make towards the town. At the fame time we heard the report 
 of muflcets, but could not diftinguifh, whether it came from 
 the veflel or the boat. We cannot fay pofitively, whether it 
 was a fcheme to entrap us, or that the vizier really fuppofed 
 our people had commenced hoftilities againft the Arabs ; but fo 
 it was : the boat had fcarcely reached the fiiore, when the vizier 
 fent for our interpreter, to complain of the outrage, and to let 
 us know that we had no right to expeft good treatment from 
 
 3 him
 
 [ 37 ] 
 him hereafter. It was in vain, that we appealed to the teftimony 
 of the mafter of the boat, who came to us of his own accord, and 
 depofed, that our people had not fired at him. That they had 
 only brought him to, with a mufket, and offered him money for 
 a pilot, which he had refufed them. A formal demand was now 
 made of our fwords } and we fufpe6ted there was fomething un- 
 common in agitation, from the whifpers of our guard, and the 
 frequent meffengers that came to and fro. One of our company 
 obferved a body of foldiers marching towards the place, where 
 our velTel lay ; and not a flone's throw from us, we faw them 
 unlading a boat of ammunition, which they had tranfported 
 acrofs an arm of the fea, that runs into the town at high water. 
 Thefe preparations plainly indicated their defigns on the vefTel, 
 againll which we had previoufly cautioned the officer to prepare 
 himfelf. The Adventure carried eight 3-pounders, befides fwivels ; 
 and we had not the leaft doubt of her repelling the whole of their 
 force. But we were unacquainted with the policy of the Arabs, 
 who trufl to craft for the accomplifhment of their wiflies ; and 
 only afFe6l refolution, when they can do it with impunity. 
 
 The hills now re-echoed with the found of cannon ; which 
 we learnt was a fummons to the neighboring tribes to join the 
 holy flandard, which is fet up in times of danger. And this 
 was a prelude to a fcene, that threatened to end very tragically. 
 We were ruminating on the ifTue of this extraordinary adventure, 
 when the Arabian mufketry began to play brifkly on the vefiel. 
 As a part of the fort fkreened the a6lion from our view, we re- 
 tired to the front windows of our apartment, where we could 
 better obfervc the veffel's motions. I had Thompfon's feafons hi 
 roy hand, and had, inadvertently, caft my eyes on the fublime 
 hymn which crowns that delightful work, when a band of ruf- 
 fians rufhed into the room, and ranged themfelves directly be- 
 fore us. Their appearance was rude, and their countenances 
 
 very 

 
 [ 33 ] 
 
 very different from the people we had hitherto converfed with. 
 Tlu-y were of the roving race, and promifed to prove worthy of 
 the dark purpofe in which they were engaged. The matches of 
 their pieces were hghtcd, and we tottered on the brink of fu- 
 turity ! — 
 
 The villaiiiy of the Arabs was now apparent. They were 
 endeavoring to piovoke our mariners to return their fire ; and 
 we well knew, that the dea-.h of one MufTidman is only to be 
 atoned for, by the lives of ten Chriftians. This is a precept of 
 their religion. But the officer on board, had reflexion enough 
 to confidcr his countrymen afliorc. He felt for our diftrefs, 
 and was ilo cool as to bear with their repeated infults for the 
 fpace of two hours ; although the mulket-balls flew into the vef- 
 fel, and he was continually urged by the crew, to pour a broad- 
 flde among the troops, fome of whom were daring enough to 
 wade into the fea, within pillol-fliot of the veflel. Nay, we afr 
 tcrwards learnt our fituation had been fo critical, that nothing 
 but threats of infl:ant death, could prevent the failors from tak- 
 ing to their arms ; and the officer v^as obliged to parade the deck 
 v/ith a loaded mulket, to intimidate them. But it is not ftrange, 
 tliat we fliould apprehend other meafures. We knew not what- 
 fleps they had taken, to facilitate the feizure of the velTel ; or 
 how long the forbearance of our people would lafl: : and we ex- 
 pe6led an engagement every nipment, to commence between her 
 and the fliore. At this crins we held a conlultation together, 
 and it was unanimoufly refolved, to demand a parley with the 
 vizier, touching the delivery of the vefl'el into his hands. Our 
 interpreter was difpatched to him, with this mortifying concef- 
 fion. The matter was become too ferious to be trifled with. We 
 had the evidence of our own eyes, to defpair of the poffibility of 
 the veffel's efcape, without a pilot; nor could we aniwer for the 
 blood, which might be fpilled through a fruitlefs obilinacy. In 
 
 this
 
 r 39 ] . 
 
 this awful interval I endeavored to collc^l myfelf fo, as to 
 meet death with a becoming refignation. I breathed a prayer 
 for the welfare of my friends, and can truly fay, that I fliould 
 have died in peace with all mankind. But the greateft confola- 
 tion which I found in this exigency, was derived from the fub- 
 lime hymn that I before mentioned. I read it over with plea- 
 fure, and felt my bofom filled with a prophetic confidence from 
 the energy of the latter part ; which is fo analogous to the fitua- 
 tion we were in, that I cannot refill tranfcribing it, though it 
 is fo well known to perfons of taile. 
 
 " Should Fate command me to the farthcfl verse 
 Of the green earth, to diftant barbarous climes. 
 Rivers unknown to fong j where firft the fun 
 Gilds Indian mountains, or his fetting beam 
 Flames on th' Atlantic illes ; 'tis nought to me : 
 Since God is ever prefent, ever felt. 
 In the void wafle as in the city full ; 
 And where He vital breathes there mull be joy. 
 When ev'n at laft the folemn hour fliall come. 
 And wing my myftic flight to future worlds, 
 I cheerful will obey ; there, with new powers. 
 Will rifing wonders fing : I cannot go 
 Where univerfal love not fmiles around, 
 Suflaining all yon orbs and all their fons ; 
 From feeming evil ftill educing good, 
 &c." 
 
 A full hour and more, did we rem/ain under the alarming cir- 
 
 cumftances I have defcribed, before we obtained the fliadovv of 
 
 a reprieve. The fire of the mulketry was ftill continued againfi: 
 
 1 the
 
 [ 40 3 . 
 
 tlie veflel ; and the minifters of death flood over us, each feem- 
 ing to have fingled out his prey, in a fixed pofture and a mute 
 referve. At length our interpreter returned from his embafly to 
 the vizier. He was accompanied by three Arabians of diftinc- 
 tion, who were come to pledge their words for the fafety of 
 ourfelves and veffel. The firft of thefe, was the general of the 
 troops at Yambo; and the other two, were the chiefs of the 
 Arab tribes, who had been fummoned to the vizier's afllftance. 
 A writing was drawn up, and figned by them ; to the obferv- 
 ance of which they fwore by their beards, the moft folemn oath 
 that a Muflulman can take. The captain was now cited to the 
 prefence of the viziei", to obtain a fimilar obligation from him. He 
 Itaid only to drink a cup of coffee ; and brought back an hand- 
 kerchief, which he had received, as a token of the rainifler's fin- 
 cerity. Pledges of this nature among the Orientals, amount to the 
 raofl ferious engagements. Whatever doubts we might entertain 
 of their value, this was no feafon to exprefs them ; and we 
 readily concurred in the captain's orders to the chief mate, to 
 bring the vefTel into the harbor. We flated the matter to him, 
 and furnifhed him with the afTurances which had been given 
 us, for our general fecurity. The captain himfelf, harbored no 
 fufpicions of their intention to plunder usj and I mufl own 
 that I was of the fame opinion. There was nothing very im- 
 probable in the vizier's floiy, now that we came to a right 
 knowledge of it. This was the firft European veffel that had 
 appeared on this part of the coafl -, and he had written to the 
 Xerif, to know whether he fliould treat us as friends or not. 
 It is not impofTible but he confidered us as fpies, who meant 
 to pry into the poverty and weaknefs of the country. Given 
 to deceit himfelf, he might have held our tale of a pilot, as 
 fi£litious ; and our anchoring at the mouth of the harbor, as 
 
 a fhallow
 
 [ 4t 1 
 
 a ftiallow artifice, through which he could clifcern. I would 
 be as charitable in my conclufions, as a chriftian ought to be, 
 but muft leave to the event, an explication of his condu6l. 
 
 The good efFe6ls of our late corapliance were foon vifible. 
 The troops were recalled from the beach, and our tremendous 
 guefts withdrawn from our apartment. Hope once more dawned 
 in our bofoms; and the difappointed looks of the ruffians, who 
 retired without having earned the wages of iniquity, left us 
 no room to doubt of their inhuman commifTion, 
 
 The day was too far advanced to think of moving the velFel, 
 as the channel into the harbour is very narrow. It was there- 
 fore ftipulated, that a pilot fliould go on board at day-break, to 
 fetch her in ; and that on her coming to anchor, her great and 
 fmail guns, piftols and cutlafTes, fhould be delivered over to the 
 cuftody of an officer, whom the vizier fliould appoint for that 
 purpofe. This article was infifled upon by him, as the only 
 means to quiet the minds of the inhabitants; who trembled for 
 the fafety of the town, while the cannon were on board ; and 
 could not conquer their fears of Europeans, who had arms of any 
 kind in their polfefTion. This fhew of terror was, to be fure, a 
 tacit compliment to the European name ; and we were at any 
 rate content to fubfcribe to terms, by which alone we were ' 
 permitted to return to the vefl'el. The boundary was pafled ; 
 and we had no other refource, than to confide in people who held 
 us in fubjeilion. We were heartily tired of being cooped up in 
 a prifon, and wiilied to return to the veflel ; where we fliould at ^ 
 leafl be rid of obfervance, and live agreeably to our own cufloms, 
 although faddled v/ith the lofs of liberty. We fpent the evening 
 far more cheerfully than ufual, and found the guard lefs watch- 
 ful of our motions, fince the conclufion of the treaty. Our holl ' 
 was particularly attentive to us -, and regaled us, for the firfl time, 
 with a fupper. This is a meal almolt unknown in Arabia ; and 
 
 G ' was
 
 [ At ] 
 
 was confidered by us in the light of a friendly banquet. We re- 
 ligned ourfelves, at our cullomary hour, to our carpets -, where 
 our imaginations were again difturbed, by a review of the un- 
 pleafing fcenes of the foregoing day. 
 
 SUNDAY, nth May. 
 
 This proved by far tlie mofl tedious day that we had pafTed in 
 our confinement. We expected to have got on board to dinner, 
 but were prevented by that indolent and perverfe difpofltion, 
 which prevails among the Eaftern nations. At eight o'clock the 
 pilot weighed the veffel's anchor, and before nine fhe brought up, 
 within half a mile abreaft of the town. We now received a vifit 
 from Mr. Walters, the chief officer, and were adveitifed by him of 
 the particulars which I have before recited, refpedling the attack 
 on the veiTel. Our thanks were juftly due to this gentleman, on 
 whofe firmnefs and difcretion our lives had depended ; and I em- 
 brace with pleafure, this public opportunity to declare our fenfe 
 of his conduct. The captain gave him an order, for the de- 
 livery of the arms to the vizier's officer, who now accompanied 
 him in a boat to receive them. They were landed in great form. 
 The fmall arms were lodged in the fort, and the cannon were 
 mounted on a battery oppofite our vefTel. This was meant to in- 
 timidate us ; though it was eafy to perceive, that a fingle dif- 
 charge would reduce the wall to ruins. Our fwords were re- 
 turned to us, with a compliment from the vizier; and we were 
 in momentary expectation of permiffion to depart. But the little 
 philofophy we poffefled, was yet to be exercifed ; and happy wa& 
 he, who could the befl make a virtue of neceffity. 
 
 Frequent were the vifits of our interpreter to the minifler in 
 the courfe of this day : but no audience could he obtain. At 
 noon he was retired to his liaram, where it was treafon to difturb 
 
 him.
 
 [ 43 ] 
 him. Now, he was engaged at dinner -, and now he had com- 
 pany with him. As we faw every thing here through the me- 
 dium of difcontent, we confidered thefe excufes as mere eva- 
 fions of his word ; and fliould he fail in that part of the treaty, 
 where our living on board the vefTel was fpecified, we had little 
 reafon to expert his fulfilling the reft of it. Nay, the worft of 
 their former fears recurred to fome of our party ; and though I 
 was by this time pretty well reconciled to the malice of fortune, 
 and did not torment myfelf by anticipating evils, I muft confefs, 
 that appearances were not much in our favor. Our property, 
 freedom, and lives, were in the hands of an imperious tyrant, 
 who had fecured us by treachery, and might only be reftrained 
 by fear, fi'om falfifying his engagements. And to this principle, 
 by which his tribe are generally aftuated in political concerns, I 
 trufted for our deliverance. The fails of commerce are ever bufy 
 in this fea, and numbers of fmall veflels had arrived at, and 
 departed from this port, during our fhort ftay. Should the vizier 
 be inclined to keep the tranfadlion a fecret, his own reflexion 
 muft fuggeft to him, that it muft needs tranfpire by a fea-con- 
 veyance, fhould he have influence enough to bar the commmii- 
 cation by land : and, whatever might be the tale he trumped up 
 to deceive his mafter, the fa6l would at length reach him in its 
 native colors. Such did I conceive to be the point, which was 
 difcufled during this delay. I imaged to myfelf the minifter, 
 fliut up with his creatures in dark cabal, and flattered myfelf 
 that his intereft would teach him for once, to be honeft. Nor 
 was I difappointed. The captain was fummoned to the pre- 
 fence of the vizier, and returned with very gracious aflurances 
 of prote6lion, and a licence to repair to the veflel. In the whole 
 courfe of my life, I do not recoiled: to have received more ac- 
 ceptable tidings. We could not have wiflied for a ftronger con- 
 firmation of the minifter's fincerity -, and for my own part, I 
 
 G 2 felt
 
 . [ 44 ] 
 
 felt a certain confidence in the thoughts of being on board, al- 
 though we were deflitute of arms, to prote6l us againft vio- 
 lence, and there was a guard of foldiers to be ftationed in the 
 veffel. But fo preferable is the notion of what we term bur 
 home, to that of a foreign place, that even in the midft of 
 danger and diftrefs, we derive comfort from the partiality, and 
 find fomething therein, to flatter and to confole us. 
 
 The fan was juft finking in the bofom of the deep, when we 
 put off from the fliore. We had taken a very cordial leave of 
 'our hofpitable fliaik, and invited him to vifit us frequently on 
 board, when we obferved the ladies of his family were aflembled 
 to grace our departure. The old man's houfe was one of the 
 largeft in the town, and furrounded on three fides by the 
 fea : and the windows were now crouded with females, who 
 waved to us with their handkerchiefs, unperceived by thofe be- 
 low. The generofity of the fair fex might have atoned for the 
 inhumanity of the men of Yambo, had we been able to benefit 
 by their good-will. But what arms could they afiail our perfe- 
 cutors with, whofe hearts were proof to the irrefiftible violence 
 of female tears ? and what hope could we derive from their gentle 
 interpofition in a Mahometan region, where petticoat-intereft is 
 at the loweft ebb ? Still be the tenets of this abfurd faith con- 
 fined to defart climes, and an ignorant race ! Let them expand 
 themfelves through the Numidian wafte, and let the unlettered 
 Arab cherifli them in his mind ! Never will they get footing in 
 more enlightened lands ; never will they ufurp the poliflied 
 breaft, which acknowledges the foft empire of womankind, and 
 rejects all attempts to depreciate her worth, as tlie diftates of 
 iTialice, folly, and pride ! 
 
 The evening was fpent in a more agreeable manner, than we 
 had of late experienced. We enjoyed our own cuftoms with 
 double fatisfaftion, fince we had known the want of them ; and 
 
 our
 
 ' [ 45 ] 
 
 our minds were relieved from a load of fufpence, with which 
 they had been opprefled. We had obtained the vizier's leave to 
 write to our friends at Judda ; and we retired to our beds, with 
 the pleafing expectations of being foon redeemed from captivity, 
 by the good offices of our countrymen with the Xerif. 
 
 MONDAY, i2th May. 
 
 The captain this morning wrote a ftate of our cafe to captain 
 Anderfon ; who he knew was at Judda, with a fliip in his charge, 
 belonging to the nabob of Arcot. He entreated him to repre- 
 fent our wrongs to the Xerif of Mecca, and to demand our im- 
 mediate releafe, under pain of the refentment of the Englifli. 
 This letter was fent to the vizier by his dehre, that he might in- 
 clofe it in his packet. To guard againft the double-dealing of 
 a man fo well known to us, we had the precaution to write a 
 duplicate of this letter. This was folded up, and directed after 
 the Arabic fafliion, by our interpreter j who fecretly delivered 
 it to a pafTenger in the boat, that waited to carry the vizier's dif- 
 patches to Judda. 
 
 I have faid, that there was a fhip at Judda in the fervice of 
 the nabob of Arcot, and that our captain had thought proper 
 to declare the Adventure to be his property. It is not to be in- 
 ferred from this, that the nabob is a maritime power, or is aim- 
 ing to extend the commerce of his fubje6ls by an attention to 
 naval affairs. The fafl is quite the reverfe. The trade qf India 
 wholly exifts in the fpirit and induftry of the Englifh. While 
 their vefTels are exploring the iflands that border on the Pacific 
 ocean, and return with a freight that renders our fettlements the 
 mart of oriental produflions, a fliip or two is fcnt yearly to 
 Judda by the nabob of Arcot. Thefe velTels, indeed, carry a 
 cargo, and import in exchange, the produces of Arabia. But this 
 
 is
 
 [ 46 ] 
 
 is the captain's care. The only benefit which the nabob looks 
 for, is the prayers of two or three hundred pilgrims, who are 
 tranfported at his expence, to perform their vows at the mofque of 
 Mecca ! his fhips were fo crouded this feafon with thefe idle 
 mendicants, that through the nabob's intereft with the owners, 
 we had the company of above twenty of them in our vefTel. This 
 was an honor we were by no means ambitious of; and from 
 which we readily difengaged ourfelves at Mocha, where they 
 were landed to profecute their journey in the beft manner they 
 co\ild. 
 
 The abufe of reafon in thefe ufelefs undertakings, is the leaft 
 evil to be complained of. They are fuch an encouragement to 
 idlenefs, and fo deftru6live to the welfare of a country, where 
 thoufands of the inhabitants are feduced from their families and 
 habitations by a fanatic call, that we may confider their tolera- 
 tion as one of the ruinous principles of a Mahometan govern- 
 ment. We have had an opportunity of obferving the effe6l, 
 which thefe pilgrimages have upon the manners and difpofitions 
 of thofe engaged in them. A froward fpirit and a brutal beha- 
 vior, mark the herd of thefe pilgrims. And we have been 
 affured from good authority, that their mutinous deportment 
 rifes fometimes to fuch a pitch, that the captains of the fhips 
 are obliged to put them in irons, for the prefervation of them- 
 felves and crew. 
 
 The occurrences aboard the Adventure being as unvaried, as 
 may be imagined in a veiTel at anchor, I will omit the recital 
 but of fuch days, as produced any particular events -, which may 
 be ufeful in curtailing a journal already, I fear, too prolix to 
 efcape cenfure. If we were uneafy at the reftraint we were un- 
 der, we had no reafon to complain of fenfual entertainment du- 
 ring th3 term of our detention. We were plentifully fupplied 
 with provifions and vegetables, at an eafy rate i and Apicius him- 
 
 felf.
 
 [ 47 ] 
 
 felf, might have taken a voyage to the Red- Sea, to have feafted 
 on the delicious fifh with which the harbour of Yambo abounds, 
 without the leaft derogation to the merits of the lamprey of 
 
 Baiac. 
 
 MONDAY, 19th May. 
 
 Our patience was pretty nearly exhaufted by this time. But 
 on the evening of this day, we were permitted to wait on the 
 vizier, after many vain foUcitations, to learn how foon we might 
 expedl our releafe : the time appointed by him to obtain anfwers 
 from Mecca, being expired. 
 
 We went afhore about five o'clock, and were received by him 
 In greater ftate, than at our firfl audience. The room was full 
 of armed men ; and we could not but impute this ufelefs pre- 
 caution, to the terrors of a bad confcience, which views every 
 thing with a fufpicious eye. The evident alteration in the vizier's 
 countenance and behavior, which were now marked v/ith in- 
 quietude and referve, in fpite of his efforts to conceal them, con- 
 vinced us of his having repented the ftep he had taken. He 
 made feveral enquiries concerning the power and commerce of 
 the Englifh in the Eafl. Nor was there occafion for our mag- 
 nifying their influence, to awaken his fears. He feemed veiy 
 attentive to the defcription of our fhips of force j and could not 
 help exprefTnig his furprize, when our interpreter told him, that 
 there were three men of war at Suez. As he was in an inquifitive 
 mood, we would not mifs the opportunity to imprefs him with 
 fentiments, that might ferve to regulate his future conduft. But 
 his pride at length, got the better of his timidity. For in the 
 courfe of our converfation, when the alliens of the Portugueze 
 in this fea, and their fettlements on this coaft, were brought on 
 the carpet, he informed us, that the Arabian hiftorians took 
 
 notice.
 
 [ 43 ] 
 
 notice of them ; and added, with an air of triumph, that the 
 Portugueze were expelled Arabia by the great Sultan Selim. 
 
 We were civilly difmifled by the minifter, with hopes of hourly 
 intelligence from Mecca, and an invitation to take a view of the 
 town, if agreeable to us. As there was a full hour to fun-fet, 
 we readily embraced the occalion to fatisfy our curiofity, and to 
 ufe a little exercife, of which we had been fo long deprived. We 
 had an officer to attend us, befides two foldiers who had accom- 
 panied us from the veffel. And we found this guard neceflary, 
 to keep off the rabble that purfued us in our walk. The firfl 
 arrival of a Cherokee Indian in Europe, could not have begotten 
 half the wonder that our appearance did here. If the commonalty 
 of Europe are not more mannerly, they are at leaft better in- 
 formed than the rude Arab. Bred up in utter ignorance of other 
 countries, and bigotted to the prejudices of illiberal do6lrines, 
 he is at a lofs to account for the produclion of a Chriflian, whom 
 his religion teaches him to hold in abhorrence and contempt. 
 But if the rough minds of the men are hurried away into thefe ab- 
 furdities, I mull once more bear witnefs to the moderation of the 
 Mahometan females, who plainly evinced to us, that their bofoms 
 were m.ade of " penetrable fluff." As we paffed through the flreets, 
 the windows and terraces of the houfes were filled with women, 
 who were infpired with' no illaudable curiofity to behold the 
 flrangers. They neither treated us with fcorn, nor followed us 
 with curies, like the favage throng beiow; but by their eagcr- 
 nefs of obfervation, and attempts to engage our attention, be- 
 trayed the fecret fymptoms of approbation. Nay, the facred 
 thirfl of admiration, fo predominant in the fex, was not 
 quenched in their breafls. We obferved many vails drop, as if 
 by accident, as we paffed beneath their owners faces, which were 
 overfpread with a vifible confufion, and verified the poet's idea 
 
 2 of
 
 zed in. 
 
 and Is 
 diately 
 e Ara- 
 1 con- 
 nation, 
 eakers, 
 1 navi- 
 tie has 
 >, with 
 which 
 me to 
 critical 
 ly be a 
 em on 
 
 ons of 
 e date- 
 
 >f fand. 
 diftant 
 
 ; beau- 
 degree. 
 
 1, feem 
 
 of rude 
 polity, 
 nature 
 
 t in fa- 
 
 to the 
 
 other.
 
 /'■V/r (/, 
 
 
 ^^iiA <^X^^^ .JC/* 
 
 ^ti^jCi^- .^u^
 
 [ 49 ] 
 
 of Mufidora's confolation in her diflrefs, at being furprized in. 
 a naked fituation by her lover : 
 
 " Ev'n a fenfe 
 Of felf-app roving beauty ftole acrofs 
 Her bufy thought." 
 
 Yambo is fituated in the latitude of 24° 10' north, and is 
 the port, from which the communication is more immediately 
 carried on with Egypt. It is the general refort of all the Ara- 
 bian veiTels that ply on this fea ; and has a very fafe and con- 
 venient haven for their proteftion, in bad weather. Its fituation, 
 behind an almofl uninterrupted chain of fhoals and breakers, 
 has hitherto fecluded it from the knowledge of European navi- 
 gators. But the charm is now broken -, and as fortune has 
 thrown it in our way, I have annexed a view of Yambo, with 
 the foundings of the harbor, taken from an aflual furvey, which 
 Mr. Walters, chief officer of the Adventure, permitted me to 
 copy from his draught. This will not only explain the critical 
 fituation that our vefTel was in during the attack, but may be a 
 guide to future mariners, whofe evil ftars may throw them on 
 this inhofpitable fliore. 
 
 The coaft here is infinitely more barren than the environs of 
 Mocha, the foil being too ungrateful to produce even the date- 
 tree or furze-bufh, and is throughout a fhining expanfe of fand. 
 The eye meets with no interruption, until it reaches the diftant 
 mountains, which bound the joylefs profpe<a:. But if the beau- 
 tiful be wanting here, the fublime exifts in no fmall degree. 
 The mountains in the more remote parts of the world, feem 
 particularly appointed by Providence, to be the refidence of rude 
 ■ and flraggling nations, unconnected by the laws of civil polity, 
 and unambitious of rambling beyond the limits which nature 
 has prefcribed them. The coaft of Arabia is an evidence in fa- 
 vor of this remark. The interior parts, from oik end to the 
 
 11 other.
 
 I 5^ J 
 
 <)tfier; exhibit what Shakefpear emphatically calls, " Heaven- 
 kiffing hills," and the mountains behind the town of Yambo, 
 rival, in height, the American Andees, or the Caucafus of Afia. 
 This reftraint, perhaps, has been the caufe of as extraordinary 
 a revolution in the face of things, as the world has feen. Ma- 
 homet kindled the flame, that' under the Caliphs, ftirred up the 
 Arabs to break" from their dark' recefles. Like the fearful 
 emptions of Etna or Vefuvius, they burft upon the aflonifhed 
 nations, and fpread dcfolation far and near. But the calamity- 
 is paft, though its effefts ftill remain. This deflroying race are 
 retired within their barriers again ; there to prey upon each other, 
 tifitil time fhall ripen tliem for another grand event. 
 
 FRIDAY, 23d May. 
 
 Four days are now elapfed fince our vifit to the vizier, and no 
 intelligence is come from Mecca. The year is nearly half-est- 
 pended, and we have not performed the half of our joui*ney tb 
 Europe. Befides, we have the uncomfortable profpe6l before 
 us, of being obliged to- travel in the heats of fummer through 
 Egypt. This idea was particularly aggravated by the fcorching 
 wind, that blew to-day from the land. It was well for us, that 
 we had been feafoned for this attack, by the land-winds fo re- 
 markable on the coaft of Coromandel, or elfe the air would have 
 been intolerable, and our blood been inflamed by the violence of" 
 the heat. Fevers would have been no eligible companions, to 
 eonftitutions, that had been expofed to the effefls of a long voy- 
 age, and in want of a furgeon, to adminifler relief to them. But 
 it pleafed God, that we fhould maintain om* healths in the 
 midfl of our diftreffes, and experience a fignal mark of his protec- 
 tion, in the hands of our enemies. 
 
 To add to the difagreeablenefs of our fituation, our guard 
 
 was:
 
 r 5^ 1 
 
 was this day doubled upon the vefTel. The fails had been taken 
 down to be mended, on her coming into the harbor; and though 
 the topmafts were ftruck, and her yards lowered down, the vizier 
 excepted at our offering to replace the fails on the yards. He 
 pretended to be apprehenfive of our departure, and fent formally 
 to demand our fails. The captain was juftly nettled at this mef- 
 fage, which he could not but confider as a wanton infult. He 
 pointed out to the vizier's officer, the impoffibility of the veffel's 
 efcape. For not to mention the unprepared ftate (he was in, 
 the wind conflantly blew into the harbor, and there was a ne- 
 ceffity for a pilot to carry her out. In truth, we were as much 
 in their hands, as if the veffel had been drawn afhore. The 
 captain, therefore, defired him to inform his mafter, that if he 
 wanted the fails, he mult fend people to fetch them, as he would 
 not voluntarily give them up. This fliew of refolution proved 
 a check on the prefumption of this haughty bafliaw, who with- 
 drew his demand ; but at the fame time, contrived to torment 
 us with the company of the additional guard I have mentioned. 
 
 The wind did not lofe its rage when the fun went down, but 
 was fo parching the whole night, as to oblige me to quit the 
 deck, where I had taken up my lodging for the fake of coolnefs, 
 ever fmce our return to the veilel. But this, to our great joy, is 
 the only land-wind we felt here ; which, from its direftion and 
 burning heat, probably traverfed the great defart, which extends 
 from the Red-Sea to the coaft of Paleftine, ere it fpent its fut:y 
 upon us. 
 
 S U N D x-^ Y, 25th May. 
 
 Many camels have come in from the coimtry within thefe two 
 days, but bring no news for us. Thefe creatures are loaded with 
 fruit and vegetables for the town ; and with fkins of water, 
 
 H 2 which
 
 [ 52 ] 
 
 which they fetch from the valhes, for the ufe of the inhabhanfs, 
 who can procure no water here, but what the heavens fuppfy 
 them with..'-^t generally rains about once in two years in Ara- 
 bia Petrea ; and then not a drop is loft, which can be caught by 
 the natives who live on the fea-coaft. They prcferve it veiy 
 carefully in large refervoirs, and make an article of trade of it,, 
 which, however, is fold at a moderate rate. We have drank no- 
 thing but rain-water fince our arrival, and find It very whole- 
 fome and palatable ; although fome was brought us, which the 
 old fliaik declared to be ten years old. Whether he may have 
 exaggerated the age of it or not, it is certain, that they have lit- 
 tle or no rain in this country. But the want of it is amply fup- 
 plied by the heavy dews that fall at night, and make the ground 
 appear as if moiftened by a fliower. Thus is the vegetable 
 brought to perfeflion, thus are the trees fupplied with nevef- 
 . failing fruit, and the vallies covered with eternal green. 
 ■"A caravan arrived this forenoon from Medina, which is but two- 
 days Journey from hence. This was the firft I had feen, arid 
 though it confifted but of 4 or 500 camels, I muft confefs my- 
 felf to have been much ftruck with the grandeur and novelty of 
 the light. We difcerned it from afar, moving onwards with a 
 quick though folemn pace, and as it paffcd near the beach, we 
 could diftinguifh with our glafles the economy of the whole. 
 The major part of the camels were loaded with merchandize, and 
 the reft carried the travellers and the principal camel-drivers. 
 Xhe fun was in his meridian, and not a cloud obfcured the hea- 
 vens, nor a breath difturbed the furfaceof the deep. The nativ.^s 
 were retired to the inmoft recefles of their habitations, and not 
 a beaft was feen abroad, fave the patient camel, that now braved 
 the fiery ray, and marched with fteady fteps, beneath the united 
 prefTure of hunger, thirft, and heat ! Wliile the wooden bark 
 ploughs the deep, and wafts from ftiore to ftiore the produce of 
 
 I each
 
 [ 53 ] 
 
 each clime, this living veflel traverfes the pathlefs wafte, fraught 
 with the precious treafures of the Eaft. A caravan of cannels ex- 
 ploring the wilds of Arabia, witli nothing in vie\^ but fand and 
 Iky,- and conducted by the planets to its defired haven, may well 
 be likened to a fleet of veffels, which are not more ufeful in 
 their way, or wonderful in their ftruclure. As the fhip alone 
 can outlive the feas, in which the weaker boat muft perifli, fo is 
 the camel peculiarly adapted to a region, in which no other clafs 
 of beafts could bear fatigue. He too experiences the chance of 
 fublunary things. His mighty ftrength, his dauntlefs heart fink 
 beneath the whirlwind's rage, and like the towering fhip, which 
 winds and waves afTail with ceafelefs fury, he yields at length to 
 inevitable fate. 
 
 <n QuF expe6tations were wound up to the higheft pitch this 
 evening, by the return of the boat which carried our packet to 
 Judda. But thefe were foon let down by the information of our 
 interpreter, whom we had fent to the vizier to learn the news. 
 The boat he found had not waited for anfwersj but we had 
 reafon to expeft them before now by land. The return of the 
 boat in fo fhort a time, was however a matter of confolation, as 
 it evinced the poflibility of our getting to Suez, though th-e 
 wind is contrary for the greateft part of the day. 
 
 TUESDAY, 27th May. 
 
 We obferved two camels travelling with uncommon expedi- 
 tion towards the town, yefterday evening, and flattered ourfelves 
 with the thoughts of their bringing our difpatclies. Nor were 
 we deceived. The vizier fent for our interpreter, to acq.uaint 
 us, of his having juft received orders concerning us, which he 
 would communicate in the morning. This fliort delay was mor- 
 di siorft c . tifying
 
 ( 54 ] 
 
 •tifying enough, but we had long learnt to have recourfe to pa- 
 tience, as the only remedy in our prefent fituation. 
 
 The craft and deceit of thefe people are equally great and 
 inexplicable. To lye for the fake of falfehood, and to over- 
 reach in matters of no moment, are paradoxes peculiar to the 
 Arabians. Were the enthufiafts in vice to think, that, like vir- 
 tue, it is its own reward, the conduct X)f the vizier would not 
 need a comment. But, why he fhould conceal orders which he 
 •muft fubmiffively obey, or trifle with our anxiety when we are 
 at his mercy, is beyond the reach of thought to fathom. We wait- 
 ed this whole morning in expedlation of a fummons, according 
 to his voluntary promife. Difappointed in this, we fent our in- 
 terpreter to befiege his gate in the afternoon, who at dufk, re- 
 turned with an appointment for an audience the next morning, 
 but with no manner of apology from the minifter, for his ex- 
 traordinary behavior. We bore the flight with a good grace; 
 and in the height of our charitable fuggcfliions, framed excufes 
 for his neglect, and were fanguine fnough to believe, that the 
 morrow v/ould put an end to our fufpence. But we knew not 
 the race we had flrumbled upon. Our dealings had been hi- 
 therto confined to people, who have fettled principles of a6lion : 
 and, whether fpurred on by intereft or guided by fear, we were 
 fenfible of what we had to expect from the natives of India. But 
 here judgment is at a fl:and. No penetration can unravel the 
 mazes of inconfifl:ency, no reflexion account for the fudden fl:arts 
 of barbarous pride ! 
 
 WEDNESDAY, 28th May. 
 
 This day was pafled, like the foregoing, in vain applications and 
 
 idle repinings. Nay, theinfult was aggravated, by the vizier's 
 
 9 refufing
 
 [ 5S I 
 refufing even to fee our interpreter. — He endeavored, it Is true, 
 to fweeten the bitter potion, by pleading bufinefs as the reafon.. 
 But w^e were by this time, too well convinced of his infincerity, 
 to fwallow the excufe with our ufual facility. Our ftate was 
 now more deplorable than ever. The arrival of a difpatch from 
 Mecca, had produced nothing in our favor -, and we beheld the 
 period which we had afligrted to our detention, efcape, without 
 difclofing the fainteft gleam of hope. 
 
 If fuch were the clouds which obfcured our immediate- prof- 
 peft, how were our imaginations fitted to encounter the fcene 
 which approached ; worked up as they had been by a feries of 
 complicated villainy, to apprehend the utmoft malice of man- 
 kind ! We had fupped as ufual, and fome of our company were 
 retired to their cabbins, when a neport was made to the ofEcer 
 upon watch, that there was a boat along-fide of the vefTel. I 
 happened to be on the quarter-deck, and was ruminating on$ 
 the flrangenefs of the circumftance at fo late an hour, when fe- 
 veral armed men approached us without ceremony, and imme- 
 diately joined their comrades, who commonly mounted guard on 
 the aftermoft part of the deck. Their appearance was as muclr 
 a matter of furprize to our ftated guard, as to ouifelves. And alt 
 we could gather from them, by dint of repeated inquiry, was, that 
 they had orders to remain on board the vefTel u itil day-break. 
 
 It is generally allowed, that an air of myftery renders the moft 
 trivial incident of confequence, as every obje(5t looks larger, that 
 is feen through a mift. At this moment the alarm was given, 
 that there was a guard-boat on each bow ; whereas, we had 
 heretofore had the company but of one. Wearied out with a 
 fucceffion of difappointments, and impreffed with the mofl un- 
 favorable ideas of the people we v/ere among, it is no wonder 
 that we gave way to conjeftures, by no means to the honor of 
 the vizier's principles. We had too great confidence in the com- 
 mercial
 
 [ 5^ ] 
 
 mercial conneflioiis between the Englifli and the Xerif, to fuf- 
 pe£t that any harm would befall us by his diie<5lions. But on 
 the other hand, the minifter might be endeavoring to foment 
 the prefent difference. This was the deepeft ftroke we had ex- 
 perienced in the delperate game which he had been playing, and 
 was not to be folved by any maxims of policy. His intents were 
 evidently deep and unfriendly ; but the hue of them was not 
 clearly to be difcerned. Had they been murderous, there was no 
 occafion for the farce, which he had been playing. For, what 
 rational creature is fo abandoned to humanity, as wantonly to 
 deftroy thofe who have never offended him, or lengthen mifery, 
 which it is his intereft to (horten? our lives and property had been 
 long at hisdifpofal; and it was not reafonable to imagine, that ^ 
 he would delay the fentence which would fecure the prize, had 
 he authority or inclination to execute it. We had been witneffes 
 to fo many inllances of his folly and caprice, that it was not im- 
 probable, but this adventure would terminate without prejudice,, 
 to us. But it mull be confefled, that no little fhare of refolu-j 
 ti.on is neceffary for the fupport of fuch argument, where reafon 
 is too weak to oppofe the evidence of our fenfes, and reflexion 
 is loll in the tumult of the fcene before us. Our minds by de- 
 grees refumed their wonted calm, and we retired to reft, with no 
 other fafeguard b^t tlie eye of a beneficent God, without whofe 
 regard there is no prote6lion for the fleeping monarch, fur- 
 rounded by his guards, 
 
 THURSDAY, 29th May. 
 
 The dawn of day delivered us from thefe unwelcome guefts, 
 conformably to their report ; and the vizier, afhamed, as we lup- 
 pofe, of the tranfa6lion, had the grace to pretend an utter igno- 
 rance of it. On our remonftrating againft the violation of the 
 
 compa^
 
 ' [ 57 J 
 
 corr.pa6l between us, he laid the blame on - the general of the 
 troops, who had committed fome miflake in ifluing orders 
 relative to the veffel. This proof of his being yet fenfible of 
 fhame, gave us hopes of an amendment in his behavior, and 
 encouraged the captain to prefs the vizier for another interview 
 for himfelf only, which he now condefcended to grant. Though 
 produ6live of no real advantage, we derived great confolation 
 from it, as the captain fairly extorted from him the reafon of his 
 late referve. He acknowledged, that his inftruflions concerning us 
 were come ; but that nothing could be done in the affair, until 
 the arrival of the Shawbunder, or captain of the port of Judda, 
 whom the Xerif had ordered to Yambo, to adjuft the terms of 
 our departure. We had long fufpe^led, that the vizier's defigns 
 were to extort heavy duties from the veffel ; and were pleafcd to 
 hear, that thofe duties were to be regulated by the port of Judda; 
 which, though unreafonable enough, will certainly come more 
 within the bounds of equity and juflice, than the confcience of 
 this Arab might have demanded. 
 
 ^ As the name of the Xerif of Mecca fo often occurs in this 
 narrative, and as his power and influence ought properly to be 
 afcertained, for the elucidation of the part he bore in our deten- 
 tion, I will endeavor to throw fuch light upon them, as oppor- 
 tunity and inquiry have afforded me. 
 
 The Xerif of Mecca is, in mofl refpe6ts, on the footing of the 
 Pope in the earlier days of Chriftianity. He is fovereign Pontiff 
 of the Mahometan church, and a temporal as well as fpiritual 
 prince. Since the extin6lion of the Caliphs, whofe apparent 
 fucceffor he is, he holds his dominions as fiefs to the Turk ; and 
 is more indebted to the zeal of fuperftition than to the terror 
 of his arms, for the fupport of his dignity. A prodigious de- 
 cline indeed, from the importance of thofe Caliphs, who reigned 
 the mafters of the Eaflern world, and fhook the neighboring 
 
 I kingdoms
 
 .T'of^ f.'.'.'O -'rf ^o 5?{rl f'f(: r.' -■.■;f, 
 
 kingdoms of the north with dire dlfmay ! But {hrunk as he is 
 within the Umits of a province, where the Mahometan great- 
 nefs firft originated, the Xerif, in two inftances, exceeds the 
 Popes in the fuUeft plenitude of their power. His honors are 
 hereditary ; to poflefs which, he muft prove his defcent from the 
 Prophet : and the extent of his influence reaches as far beyond 
 that of the Popes, as the perfuafion of Mahomet beyond the 
 Papal tenets. The remoteft corners of the Eaft pay homage to 
 his title. The way-worn pilgrim ceafelefs toils from Teflis* 
 towers or Mefopotamia's wafte, to add his little mite to the trea- 
 fures of Medina's temple ; while Afiatic princes, fubahs of 
 Ind, and fultans of the Spicy Ifles, which weftward bound the 
 Southern ocean, enrich the Prophet's fhrine with gems and gold. 
 The large fum of money which our veffel brought for the fer- 
 vice of the Mofque, as a peace-offering from the nabob of Arcot, 
 on the deceafe of his daughter, is a corroborating evidence of 
 the enthufiafm of MufTulmen. It amounted to one lack and an 
 half of rupees, which is near ;^. 20,000 flerling, and was the 
 gift of a prince, whom the world need not be told is fo in.- 
 volved in debt, as not to require this drain to exhauft his mort- 
 gaged revenues. 
 
 iio The territories of the Xerif lie in the heart of Arabia, and are 
 about three hundred miles long and one hundred broad. Befides 
 the cities of Mecca and Medina, to which the caravans annually 
 bring the produce of diftant countries, his revenues are con- 
 fiderably augmented by the commerce, that is carried on with his 
 ports of Yambo and Judda, by the vefTels of Africa and India. 
 Whatever fan6lity he may pretend to, or indifference to the con- 
 cerns of this world, like other hypocrites in religion, he prefers 
 his own intereft to that of his Maker ; and ufes his name as an 
 inftrument, to advance his own dignity and riches. The cara- 
 vans, which profelTedly fet out on a piotis journey to Mecca, are 
 5 more
 
 [ 59 ] 
 
 more encouraged by this Pontiff for die fake of his own glory, 
 than that of the Prophet ; as the vakiable goods they convey, and 
 the high duties impofed upon the dekided merchants, fufficiently 
 atteft. But what perfuafion is there among the frail race of 
 inankind, which is not open to perverfion, and liable to be dif- 
 graced by abfurd rites, and idle ceremonies ? the divine purity 
 of the Chrillian religion could not preferve its ftream from be-. 
 ing tainted, by the machinations of prieftcraft, and the intem- 
 perance of zeal. Nor is there much difference in the folly of 
 the belief, that founds falvation on a pilgrimage to the temple of 
 Mecca, or to the houfe of my lady of Loretto ! 
 
 The prefent Xerif is a youth under twenty years of age, and, 
 vi^hat is remarkable on account of his family, he is as black as a 
 negro. He has been feen by fome of our countrymen, but 
 this is not a common thing, as he feldom ftirs from Mecca, to 
 the neighborhood of which place, and Medina, no approach is 
 allowed to Chriftians. Nay, to fuch a degree has their con- 
 tempt of us arifen, that neither at Mocha, Judda, nor Yambo, 
 will they fuffer a Chriftian to go out at the gate, which looks 
 towards Mecca. One of his Majeffy's frigates was at Judda laft 
 year, to fettle fome articles of trade between the different na- 
 tions ; when the Xerif himfelf made an excurfion to Judda, on 
 purpofe to pay a comphment to the Britifh flag. He went on 
 board the frigate ; and, to teftify his fatisfaclion at the a6livity of 
 the failors, and the difcipline of the marines, he left a very 
 princely gratuity to be diftributed among them. On thi^ ap- 
 pearance of good-will in the Xerif towards the Englifli, we rely 
 for redrefs in the injury we have received ; though the courfe of 
 juffice may be delayed, by the mifreprefentations of the knaVe, 
 into whofe clutches we have unfortunately fallen. 
 
 I 2 SATURDAY,.
 
 [ 6o ■] 
 
 SATURDAY, 31ft May. 
 
 ^ This morning we were delighted with the fight of two boats 
 fo the fouthward. As thev came into the harbor, we leamt 
 from our guard, that the fhawbunder of Judda was in the 
 foremoft. But this funfhine was foon clouded by a meffage from 
 the fliore, which advifed us that the perfon we expefted, was in 
 a boat behind. We, who were bound for Europe, thought this 
 a good opportunity to folicit the vizier for our departure to 
 Suez, which he might, on certain conditions, wifh to grant us, 
 before the arrival of another officer to fliare in the profit, which 
 he evidently meant to make of us. With his permiffion, there- 
 fore, my three fellow-travellers and myfelf paid him a \ifit in 
 the afternoon, when we were received with his wonted polite- 
 nefs. We prefi'ed him for the immediate provifion of a boat, but 
 he pretended that nothing could be done until the fliawbunder's. 
 arrival, except the order for a boat to be ready at a minute's 
 warning. He concluded this aflurance wdth a caution againft the 
 impofitions of his people, and a requeft not to give any prefents, 
 but to fuch as came exprefsly by his order. This was too plain 
 to be mifunderftood ; and after our return to the veflel, we 
 judged it expedient to tender this minifler a bribe. We found 
 from long experience, that he was not to be moved by the 
 force of words, and accordingly prepared a prefent, wherewith to 
 melt his unrelenting breafl. It confifted of a diamond ring, a 
 fine fliaul, and a piece of gold fluff for a drefs ; and was an 
 offering, rather extorted by neceffity, than fuitable to the cha- 
 radlers which we affumed. This we fent him by our interpreter, 
 and had the pleafure to learn that it was gracioufly received. 
 We met in return, with a repetition of thofe afTurances of his 
 protection, which he had before lavifhed upon us. 
 
 I cannot;
 
 [ 6i ] 
 
 I cannot help relating here a curious circumftance of the di- 
 vers of Arabia, whofe fkill exceeds that of any others which I 
 have read of. The mafter of a boat, which was jiifl returned 
 from Tor, offered to recover the anchor, v/hich I nicntioneci to 
 have been loft by our veiTel, while fhe was at the entrance of the 
 harbor. As it lay in fixteen fathom water, the captain gave 
 little credit to the fellow's pretenfions, but was willing to try 
 the experiment, as much from a motive of curiofity as any otlier. 
 The diver was to earn but a third of the fixed reward, fliould his 
 attempts mifcarry. He brought his boat to the veflel to-day, and 
 accompanied our long-boat, with an officer on board, to the 
 mouth of the harbor. And from this officer I had the follovying 
 particulars. 
 
 When they came to the fuppofed place, the diver went down 
 •in fixteen fathoms, with no other preparation than a weight to 
 -his feet, and a piece of wood on his noftrils, to prevent his 
 fetching his breath in the water. There was a rope faftened 
 to his arm, by which he gave notice when he wanted to be drawn 
 up. At the fignal made, he was run up by his comrades with 
 amazing celerity. He informed the officer that he had feen .the 
 anchor at fome diftance ; and takmg a rope of fufficient ftrength 
 to hold it, he dived again to an equal depth, and tied it to the 
 ring of the anchor. Upon weighing it, however, it turned out 
 not to be ours, but a large grapnel belonging to the annual 
 Judda veficl, which failed from hence fome months ago. After 
 this difappointment, to make good what he had alTerted of tiis 
 4killi the fellow went down in tv/o-and-twenty. fathoms, thougli 
 the wind began to frefhen, and the fea to be ruffied. He Itaid 
 between two and three minutes under water, accord'mg to tfie 
 watch of the gentleman prefent. Nay, after he came into the 
 boat, this amphibious creature did not take the prefiuj^e from 
 his noftrils for near a minute longer; and.appeapdjft^in ,^he 
 
 '" leift;
 
 [ 62 ] 
 
 leaft fatigued or difcompofed. He affirmed, that upon occafion, 
 lie can dive fome fathoms deeper ; and in a calm day, can fee 
 ten fathoms around him,- That he can walk about with great 
 cafe at the bottom of the fea, and feparate branches of coral from 
 the rocks, with an ax or a faw. As a proof of which, he pro- 
 duced a large branch of coral, which he had taken out of a bay 
 to the northward. I have a piece of this coral in my poffeffion. 
 Anxious as he appeared to be for the recovery of our anchor, 
 we have reafon to believe that the poor man had been forbidden 
 by the vizier to get it; as he means to turn it to his own ac- 
 count, after our departure. I am fenfible that the divers go to 
 a great depth, in the pearl-fifheries in the Gulph of Perfia, 
 where they are affifled by machines of various conflru<5lions : but 
 fuch a marvellous inftance as I have related, of natural powers 
 unaided by the efforts of art, fhould have died in filence for 
 me, had it not fallen, in a manner, under our immediate obfer- 
 vation. 
 
 The only recreation we enjoy, is failing about the harbor in one 
 of the fhip's boats. And this is rather connived at by our guard, 
 than allowed of by the vizier, whofe orders concerning us ^^re 
 very rigid. In the courfe of thefe cruizes, we have had oppor- 
 tunities to make ourfelves well acquainted with the harbor, and 
 to produce the plate which has been exhibited of it. But all 
 our obfervations tended nothing towards our own enlargement. 
 There is but one channel into the harbor, and the wind con- 
 ilantly blows into it at this feafon. It is not, therefore, the lofs 
 of our guns, or the prefence of a guard, that detains us. Defpair 
 would furnifli us with arms to rid us of this obftacle, were the 
 <ioor of efcape open to our veffel. 
 
 MONDAY,
 
 [ 63 3 
 
 MONDAY, 2d June. 
 
 This morning the long-expefted b6at brought in the fhaw- 
 bunder of Judda. At nine o'clock he came aboard the Adventure, 
 and delivered our captain a letter from the Xerif himfelf, and 
 another from Captain Anderfon. The firft letter contained per- 
 milTion for the captain to go where he pleafed, on paying the 
 duties of the port of Yambo j an impofition which is levied on 
 all veffels that enter the Xerif's ports, whether they difpofe of 
 their cargoes or not. If he preferred going to Judda, no duties 
 were to be paid at Yambo ; but in that cafe, the vefTei was to 
 be given as a fecurity, into the charge of the Xerif's fervants i 
 and the captain and his officers were to proceed to Judda, on a 
 boat which fliould be provided for them. The vizier was like- 
 wife directed to difpatch the packets, and the gentlemen who 
 had the care af them, in a proper boat to Suez. Such was the 
 fubftance of the Xerif s orders. They were in fome refpects, 
 iinreafonable enough, and betrayed a greater regard to his own 
 benefit, than a readinefs to do us juftice. But our fituation con- 
 fidered, it will be eafily believed, that we were more fatisfied than 
 other wife, at the receipt of thefe tidings. 
 
 The contents of Captain Anderfon's^ letter were not lefs agree- 
 able. After condoling with us on our misfortune, he tells us, 
 that the Swallow floop of war, vv^hich had been on a voyage to 
 Suez, was juft arrived at Judda. That on learning our fitua- 
 tion, her commander, Captain Panton, had demanded fatisfac- 
 tion of the government, for the infult that had been offered to 
 the Britifh flag. It was plain from his letter, that the Xerif 
 was unacquainted with this demand, when his inftru6lions rela- 
 tive to us, were forwarded to Yambo. But we doubted not that 
 
 our
 
 [ 64 ] 
 
 our wrongs would be redrcffed, by the prefence of a naval oflicer, 
 of the known fpirit and humanity of Captain Panton. Captain 
 Bacon and the fupercargoes of the Adventure, would foon have 
 an opportunity of making a perfonal application to him at Judda, 
 on this head. But the gentlemen bound for Europe, thought 
 it expedient to join with me, in a reprefentation of the damages 
 we had incurred, by the treachery of the Xerif s government. 
 This letter we forwarded to Captain Panton by the hands of 
 Captain Bacon ; and though no benefit may accrue to us from 
 the refult, we fhall be fatisfied to hear that the infult is revenged, 
 by the interpofition of the Britifti arms. 
 
 Our profpeft of getting to England now recurred with ten- 
 fold pleafure ; and we were not willing to lofe a moment in tak- 
 ing advantage of the Xerif s permiflion. The interpreter was 
 immediately difpatched to the vizier, to remind him of his pro- 
 mife. He returned with a Nokidah, or mafter of a boat, whom 
 this crafty minifler pretended to have fent us, that we might 
 make our own terms with him. This modeft fellow had the 
 confidence to alk us 700 dollars and a drefs, for the freight of 
 his boat to Suez. I fay freight, as we were to find provifions, 
 and even water, ourfelves. When the dire6l diftance be confi- 
 dered, which fcarcely exceeds 150 leagues, and the boat itfelf be 
 examined, which is without a deck, and not fo well found as 
 a Cornifh fifliing-fmack, no one will pronounce the demand to 
 be "within the bounds of moderation, though preferred by an 
 Arab. But we were in abfolute want of the boat, and were 
 fain to fee ourfelves cheated, with our eyes open. We found 
 this convenient agent inflexible in his purpofe, and were glad to 
 ftrfke the bargain at 650 dollars, the major part of which, we 
 fhrewdly fufpecled, would go into the vizier's coffers. And 
 this was the return which his gratitude fuggefled, for the prefent 
 ivhich we made him ! but we were obUgcd to keep our fufpi- 
 3 cions
 
 cions and our complaints, equally a fecret. It was In the vizier's 
 power to frame a thoufand delays in our undertaking, and con- 
 fequently, our intereft to wink at an impofition, by which we 
 fecured his proteflion. On thefe principles, therefore, .we agreed 
 to give more for the hire of a boat, than fhe was intrinfically 
 worth. And, happy to efcape from the fnare which befet us, 
 we did not think our liberty dearly purchafed, at the price of 
 being handfomely fleeced. When this weighty matter was fet- 
 tled, the Arab retired, to give his employer the agreeable intelli- 
 gence of his fuccefs, while we ferioufly prepared ourfelyes to turn 
 a bad bargain to the befl account.. 
 
 SUNDAY, 8th June. 
 
 The laft week was employed in regulating the affairs of the 
 vefTel. There was not the bell appearance of harmony between 
 the vizier and the fhawbunder^ which operated to retard her 
 difpatch. By fome blunder of the former, the cargo was or- 
 dered afhore ; and though this procedure feemed to contradict 
 the Xerif's commands, the captain could not difpute the plea- 
 fure of the vizier. By the fliawbunder's reprefentation, however, 
 the cargo was forthwith returned to the veffel; but a bale of cal- 
 iicoes was miffing. This was undoubtedly embezzled by the 
 vizier and his people, who floutly denied having received it, 
 though oppofed by tlie teftimonies of the fupercargoes, and the 
 officers of the Adventure. Two days were fpent in fruitlefs dif~ 
 .putes on this fubje»5l ; and there is no pronouncing to what a 
 length they would have been fpun out, had not a feafonabk- 
 hint which the vizier dropped, finally decided them. He affefl- 
 ed to declare, that as his honor was doubted, he muft infill upon 
 things refling as they were, until jullice had been done to him 
 at Mecca. There needed no more, to convince us of the abfur* 
 
 KL dity
 
 [ 66 ] 
 
 dity of perfeverance againft fuch a charaf^er. We were afcer- 
 tained of his being capable of the blackeft actions ; and the cap- 
 tain wifely refolved to forego his right, and give a receipt for the 
 whole cargo. 
 
 Thefe vexatious tranfa6tions detained my fellow-travellers and 
 myfelf at Yambo, as the ved'el's departure and ours was to take 
 place together. But every thing being now prepared for the pro- 
 fecution of our coafting voyage, our debts at this place dif- 
 charged, and the boat we had agreed for, having been exchanged 
 for another, which the vizien, for reafons beft known to himfelf, 
 pitched upon for us, we this afternoon obtained our audience of 
 leave of this extraordinary perfonage. We were received with 
 that politenefs and affability, which in minLfters of ftate, cover 
 a multitude of imperfections. Thefe are the bright fides of po- 
 litical characters, where an agreeable light is blended with the 
 fliades that overcaft them. Had our knowledge of this man been 
 confined to externals, we fliould have quitted Yambo, with the 
 mofl favorable ideas of his difpofition. But the brutality of his 
 conduct could not be foftened by the polifh of his manners, and 
 the conviction of his treachery flafhed through the vail of a 
 fmooth tongue and a winning addrefs. We were refolved, never- 
 thelefs, to appear fatisfied of his fmcerity ; which, in truth, we 
 now gave him more credit for, than fince our acquaintance com- 
 menced. He had no longer any probable motive to amufe us ; 
 and the Xerif's commands are reputed to be held too facred, to 
 be fported with by his fervants. We took in good part, the 
 wiflies he exprefTed for our fafe arrival at Suezj and received 
 the paffport which he gave us for the fecurity of our perfons, 
 with entire confidence in the virtue of its contents. We took 
 our leave of the vizier, amid a profufion of high-flown compli- 
 ments, which we had neither the capacity nor inclination to re- 
 ;turn. The natives of the Eaft are fo habituated to this mode 
 z of
 
 [ 67 ] 
 
 of Ipeech, that well-turned compliments fall from their lips 
 with inexpreflible readinefs. And the Arabian language is fo fu- 
 perior in elegance to the reft, that this people, in other refpefts 
 fo remarkable for their fimplicity, exceed all other nations in 
 tlie delicacy of their expreffion, and the agreeable wildnefs of 
 their images. 
 
 MONDAY, 9th June. 
 
 This has been a bufy, as well as a joyful day for us. On 
 the eve of recovering our liberty, after a tedious and painful de- 
 tention, like the birds who efcape the cage which with-held 
 *them, and flutter abroad without a thought of the confequences, 
 we only rejoiced over the prefent moment, unheedful of the toils 
 we might fall into, or the dangers that might await us in coaft- 
 ing a wild and unknown fhore, and, as the poet finely fays, 
 •' with no other ftay fave innocence and Heaven." We could 
 only provide againft obvious calamities. We were well fur- 
 nifhed with fire-arms and ammunition, to guard againft open 
 attacks, and with rice and water, to obviate the calls of hunger 
 and thirft. But the friendftiip of Captain Bacon fet us above 
 anfwering the mere neceffities of nature. He fupplied us with 
 many articles, which might have been difpenfed with in the voy- 
 age which we had undertaken, had we meant to have kept a ta- 
 ble fuitable to our accommodations in an open boat. But he 
 was willing that we ftiould be as well provided as his (hip would 
 afford ; and we could not in juftice, refufe him the pleafure of 
 crowning his genteel behavior during a four-months voyage, 
 by this more material inftance of his attention. It will appear 
 a myftery to people in Europe, who are obliged to pay extrava- 
 gantly for a paflage from one kingdom to another, to learn that 
 the commanders, in general, in the country fervice in India, 
 
 K 2 think
 
 [ 68 ] 
 
 think your entertainment fufficiently repaid by the pleafure of 
 your company ; and are only lludious to render a paflage agreea- 
 ble to you, which can no otherwife redound to their benefit, 
 than what a liberal mind feels on the exertion of an hofpitable 
 action. This remark is due to the gentlemen of a femce, which 
 has been too much difparaged by the ill conduct of fome unworthy 
 members. The chara6ler of Captain Bacon, and others that I 
 could mention fiom experience, will more than atone for the 
 defedion of the reft. I fhould not omit, among the reft of 
 his favors, that he furniflied us with a lafcar, or mariner, who 
 had fome knowledge of the Arabic tongue. It would be painful 
 to conceive the difficulties, to which we might be reduced in the 
 courfe of our journey, were not this man to be with us, to in- 
 terpret our wants, and to give the people we dealt with, a 
 more favorable idea of Chriflians. He is a Muffulman, and is 
 likely to gain fome credit with thofe of his perfuafion. And yet 
 v.e were on the point of fetting out, without any interpreter ; 
 neither reflecting on poffible events, nor providing againft hu- 
 man accidents. 
 
 We fupped for the laft time, on board the Adventure ; and 
 after taking a parting glafs, and a cordial leave of Captain Ba- 
 con and the reft of our friends. Major Alexander, Lieutenant 
 * * *, Mr. Hammond, and myfelf, attended by my European 
 fervant, two flave-boys of the major's, one of Lieutenant * * *'s, 
 and Ibrahim our interpreter, ftepped into the veflel's pinnace, 
 and were prcfently conveyed to the boat, which we reached about 
 ten o'clock at night. I would attempt to give the reader fome 
 idea of the place we got into, but the defcription demands an 
 higher coloring than my pencil can give it. If he can imagine, 
 however, the fituation of four gentlemen, crouded together in a 
 Iquare of about five feet diameter, with no defence from the 
 noontide funs and midnight dews of the Arabian coaft, deprived 
 
 of
 
 # 
 
 iSaifUf 
 
 ^ J * \^Jeral<w/v 
 
 
 
 
 ) ^ 
 ... -/.

 
 . [ 69 1 
 
 of the fmalleft exerclfe of their limbs, and condemned to the 
 conftant fociety of the boat's crew, wholly at the c >^retion of 
 a perfidious race, and with the profpe6l of a long and tedious 
 cruize in an unknown fea — he may gather fome faint traits of 
 the undertaking we were engaged in. As we fought the danger, 
 there can be no vanity in fpeaking of it : as fomething more 
 than an idle temerity, enforced the profecution of a voyage, 
 the difficulties of which we were fufficiently apprized of. 
 
 JOURNAL OF THE BOAT IMPOSITION 
 
 FROM YAMBO TOWARDS SUEZ. 
 
 TUESDAY, loth June. 
 
 We were difturbed at day-break by the arrival of the nokidah, 
 and pilot who is to navigate the boat, which, from the price we 
 have paid for her, we have named the Impofition. They brought 
 another Arab and three Abyffinian flaves with them, who made 
 up her crew. And thefe are full fufficient to manage her. 
 Could we confult our eafe before our fafety, we would willingly 
 difpenfe with this addition to our numbers, which greatly ex- 
 ceed the fize and convenience of our bark. We found no little 
 difficulty, laft night, in providing for our repofe. Our chefts 
 form a i'quare in the center of the boat, and my companions 
 and I, each take up his lodging on his own cheft. Our fer- 
 vants difpofed themfelves in fuch places, as they could obtain a 
 footing upon ; but this increafe to our fociety, will reduce them 
 to the neceffity of fecuring a poft for themfelves. 
 
 5 Wc
 
 [ 70 ] 
 We weighed our anchor at 6 A.M. and ftood to the well- 
 ward, with the wind at N. by W. But we had not got a league 
 out, when the wind hauled round to N. W. This obliged us 
 to run back again, and anchor at the mouth of the harbor, -"^ 
 We had not been here long, when a boat pafled us, with 
 Captain Bacon and his chief mate on board. They are bound 
 for Judda, and we had but juft time to hail each other, and 
 renew our wifhes for our reciprocal welfare. The wind will be 
 fair for their boat, when they get clear of the harbor ; and their 
 palTage promifes to be a fpeedy one, in proportion as the wind 
 is unfavorable to us. 
 
 The wind was ftrong all day from the N. W. In the even- 
 ing we faw the Adventure, {landing towards us. There were but 
 a few of her fails fet j and the Arabian pilots, to whofe charge 
 ihe is committed by the Xerif s order, not being able to make 
 any hand of it, brought her to an anchor again in the har- 
 bor. This outfet proves the little knowledge of thefe pilots ; 
 and it will be well if they cany her fafeiy to Judda, confidering 
 the great difference between working her, and vefTels rigged for 
 coafting voyages. 
 
 I have annexed a chart of the Red-fea, from Yambo to Suez, 
 that the reader may purfue the track of the boat as he reads 
 the journal. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, nth June. 
 
 The nokidah and pilot flept upon the poop laft night. Our 
 arrangement, therefore, is as follows. They have poffeffed them- 
 jfelves of the ftern j my companions and myfelf occupy the mid- 
 fpace, and our fervants and the crew keep in the fore-part of 
 the boat. We have mounted a mulketoon upon tHe gunnel, 
 and have our fufecs and piftols loaded. But as we are as yet, 
 
 under
 
 [ 71 ] 
 
 under the proteftion of the fort, we have not began to keep 
 watch during the night. 
 
 At 6 A. M. we weighed with the wind at S. W. and flood 
 N. W. and ran about three leagues ; but the wind fuddenly veer- 
 ing round to the weft and W. N. W. the pilot found he could 
 not reach his intended anchoring-place, and, to our great mor- 
 tification, ran back before the wind, to an opening between 
 the rocks. Thefe rocks are a part of a reef, that extends from 
 Judda to Cape Mahomet, and in which our vefTel was unfor- 
 tunately entangled, when we were driven to the neceflity of 
 putting into Yambo. We underftand there are particular places 
 upon this coaft, which veflels are obliged to reach during the day, 
 or elfe they muft, at times, run back to the birth which they 
 left, for want of anchoring-ground. At one of thefe ftages, 
 our boat brought to, at twelve o'clock, which is the propereft 
 term that can be ufed on the occafion. As the boat approaches 
 the reef, one of the crew jumps from the forecaftle, with a hook 
 in each hand, and diving under the reef, faftens the hooks to 
 the rocks, which are rendered porous by the water. The boat 
 rides here in fmooth water, with her fides almoft touching the 
 rocks. And here a veffel of confiderable burden, might ride ; 
 as the water is fo deep, that we cannot find a bottom with fe- 
 veral fathoms of rope. 
 
 We took an obfervation at noon, and found ourfelves in the 
 latitude of 24° 10' north. We have hitherto made little or no 
 progrefs in our voyage; but are not to defpair, becaufe the 
 winds have been contrary for two days. In the afternoon we 
 faw the Adventure, ftanding to the fouthward. This denotes 
 that fhe is clear of the harbor, but ihe feems to be going under 
 a very eafy fail. 
 
 THURSDAY,
 
 [ 72 ] 
 
 THURSDAY, 12th June. 
 
 The nokidah waded afhore during the night, in order to go 
 to Yam bo for a fpar, to replace one which was carried away 
 yefterday. He had not left us long, when a brifk breeze fprung 
 up from the land, with which we might have made a ftretch 
 to the northward, had our mafter been aboard. But this is only 
 on a fuppofition, that thefe people work their boats in the 
 night, which we have, indeed, but too much reafon to doubt. 
 At day-break the wind fliifted to the N. W. fo that when the 
 nokidah returned, he found that it was impoflible for us to 
 ftir. He brought fome intelligence refpefting the Adventure. 
 It feems that the Arabian pilots are fo unfkilful in the manage^ 
 ment of a vefTel of her conftru6lion, that the fupercargoes and 
 the officer who remain on board, are afraid of being caft away 
 in the pafiage to Judda. They have already loft all her own 
 anchors by their ignorance j and it is a great chance, if they 
 fucceed better with the grapnels, which they have taken in, to 
 fupply the lofs. The fituation of this veflel is very peculiar; 
 She was reduced to her prefent diftrefs by the treachery of thefe 
 barbarians j and is in danger of being wrecked by their ob- 
 ftinacy, in not permitting Captain Bacon to take charge of her, 
 when they carry her clear of the rocks. But vehgeance, no 
 doubt, awaits the injured. This is not the firft time, that the 
 Englifli flag has redrefTcd her fubjedls, even in this remote fea : 
 and the hour perhaps will come, when the Xerif of Mecca will 
 be forced to do juftice to the fufrerers on the fnow Adventuxe. 
 
 About nine o'clock the wind changed to the fouthwarrd j but 
 we could not take advantage of it, on account of the abfencc 
 of fome of our company. Lieutenant * * * went aftiore at fix 
 o'clock, on pretence of gathering famphire, and took Ibrahim 
 
 our
 
 [ 73 ] 
 
 our interpreter with him. We were a little furprized at their 
 flay ; but when the wind became favorable, we difpatched a ma- 
 riner into the country, to recal them to the boat. But how 
 was our furprize increafed, when the meflenger returned, and 
 informed us, that they were not to be found ! Various were our 
 conjectures on this occafion. We at one time, fancied that they 
 had wandered beyond their knowledge, and were gone towards 
 the beach, by tracing which they muft at length find the boat. 
 At another, we apprehended they had been furprized by the wild 
 Arabs, and carried into flavery. The true caufe was the furthell 
 from our thoughts. But fomething pofTefTed our nokidah to be- 
 lieve, that the abfentees were gone to Yambo. Whether he had 
 obferved Lieutenant * *" * 's difcontent at his fituation, and fuf- 
 pe<5led that he was engaged in a bufinefs unfavorable to him, 
 fo it was, the nokidah's penetration exceeded ours, and he de- 
 termined to feek them at Yambo. It was about noon when 
 he fet out for the town, which is about two leagues from 
 hence ; and, that nothing might be wanting on our parts, to re- 
 cover our friends, we diredted two mariners to take different routes 
 in fearch of them, while we hoifted a fignal on our mainmaft, 
 and difcharged our mufketoon repeatedly, in hopes of attra6ling 
 theii' notice. At 3 P. M, the wind came about to the N. W* 
 and blew from that point the reft of the day. 
 
 Our mariners returned with as little fuccefs, as before. Our opi- 
 nions now began to waver, and we fulpefted that Lieutenant * * * 
 had taken fome extraordinary ftep. Ever fince our imprifonment 
 at Yambo, his condu£l had been the reverfe to what we had known 
 it. His prejudice againft the Arabs exceeded all bounds, and his 
 apprehenfions of tliem feemed to have difordered his intellefts. 
 He often exprefled fuch an abhon-ence of the voyage We' 'Were 
 about to engage in, that we more than once prcfTed hinfi to for-'' 
 bear accompanying us. We had obferved with concern," tH'at'* 
 
 L he
 
 [ 74 ] 
 
 he had betrayed fears for his life ever fince he entered the boat j 
 and was always on the watch, while we llept in the fecurity 
 which our fituation required. We were too near to Yambo, to 
 expe6t danger from the country j and all refiflance would 
 be vain, were harm intended us by the government. But the 
 night before, he had declared, that our Arabs meant to murder* 
 us at fupper. Then, that they had deferred it until midnight.- 
 Thefe, and many other extravagancies which he committed, we 
 attributed to the efFefls of diftruft, and contented ourfelves witii- 
 laughing at them ; althoiTgh he frequently protelled, that he had 
 overheard the Arabs debating on the manner of' our death's. 
 
 The day thus pafl'ed over our heads^ while we labored under ^ 
 weight of vexation and anxiety. We had miffed of as fair a wintV 
 as could blow for us -, and were uncertain of the fate, which had 
 befallen Lieutenant * * * and Ibrahim. At five o'clock we difcc- 
 vei^ed camels and a guard of foldiers at a diftance, which actually 
 turned out to be their efcort. Our looks mutually exhibited afto-- 
 nifliment and confufion at this meeting. But we pitied the fitua- 
 tion of our companion, and forbore to reproach him in the pre- 
 fence of the guard. He feemed much agitated and fatigued, and- 
 fpoke but little on his arrival. From our interpreter and the 
 guard, we learnt the particulars of his expedition. It appears, that 
 his dillruft of our Arabs had fo worked upon the mind of Lieu- 
 tenant * * *, as to induce him to return, in a clandeftine man- 
 ner, to the vizier of Yambo, and communicate his fufpicions; 
 On their reaching the fhore, he artfully drew Ibrahim towards 
 the town, and, on their getting about a mile, by threats and en- 
 treaties, he perfuaded the fmiple fellow to accompany him. On 
 their reaching the town, they were laid hold of by fome Arabs -, 
 and carried, as they defired, before the vizier. They were re- 
 ceived very politely by that minifter, and the complaint of Lieu- 
 tenant * * * was fo far attended to, that. a guard was ordered to 
 
 take
 
 [ 75 ] 
 take the boat-people into cuftody. At this moment the 
 nokidah arrived, and gave evidence of his innocence, by the 
 relation of our behavior on the abfence of the accufer. The 
 tables were now turned, and Lieutenant * * * was fent back 
 to us, in the manner before recited. The vizier difpatched 
 an Hindoo with him, to afliire us, in the Moor tongue, that we 
 had nothing to fear from the boat-people, whofe lives ftiould 
 anfwer for our fafety. We were obliged, in our own defence, to 
 difown any knowledge of Lieutenant * * *'s intentions; and to 
 thank the vizier for his candid behavior on this occafion. The 
 guard then departed, with a gratification which we made them 
 for their trouble. 
 
 As accufations and repinings were equally vain, we determined 
 among ourfelves, to be filent on this myfterious conduct of 
 Lieutenant * * *, We, however, reprimanded Ibrahim very fe- 
 verely, in his prefence, for the folly which he had been guilty of; 
 and came to a general refolution, not to go on iliore on the 
 continent, nor detain the boat for any one, who ventured to do 
 id in future. After we went to bed, we obferved Lieutenant * * * 
 go to the poop, and by. means of geftures, and the few words 
 of Arabic of which he is mafler, hold a kind of difcourfe with 
 the nokidah and pilot. He came to his fcrutoire once or twice, and 
 we fufpe6l took out money. What he did with it, or what will 
 be the iiTue of his unhappy turn of mind, we cannot determine. 
 It was late when he laid down, and we have reafon to believe his 
 reft is broken and unfound. 
 
 FRIDAY, 13th June. 
 
 Our boat got under fail at four o'clock this morning, with a 
 light breeze from the land. Though Ihe is too large to row 
 againft an head fea, we found the advantage of having oars on 
 
 L 2 board.
 
 [ 76 ] 
 
 board. The weather was fo moderate, we made ufe of them the 
 greateft part of the morning. At nine A.M. the wind fhifted 
 to the S. W. but proved very faint. We felt the rage of the 
 fun to-day pretty feverely. While we are under fail, it is not 
 polfible for us to put up a canvafs awning, with which we are 
 furnilhed. But to advance quicker in our progrefs, we muft be 
 content to be expofed in this manner. About 3 P. M. the wind 
 came round to the favorite point, the N. W. which obhged 
 us to run into fmooth water, and bring to, as before, betweea 
 the breakers and the fliore ; from the latter of which we are 
 about a mile diftant. The coaft here is rather low, but the 
 mountains rife a few miles behind it. The fky was too hazy for 
 us to take an obfervation at noon ; but by our reckoning, we 
 have gained about three leagues to the northward in the laft 
 run. 
 
 Juft as the boat came to anchor. Lieutenant * * * 's infirmity 
 plainly difcovered itfelf. We had been confirmed fince yefterday, 
 in our fufpicions of his brain being touched. His appetite was 
 gone, his looks were wild and difordered, and his converfation 
 continually bordered upon madnefs. He told us, when the boat 
 flood out to fea tliis morning, that the Arabs were carrying us 
 there to murder us ; and, when Ihe flood into land, he changed 
 his tone, and pronounced our deaths to be prepared for us here. 
 We little regarded fuch flrange fancies ; but were alarmed much at 
 his feizing his fword when we came to anchor, and bidding us to 
 fland upon our defence. The Arabs were now juflly frightened 
 at his extravagance, and we had much ado to perfuade him to lay 
 by his fword. This circumflance had been overlooked, and we 
 had determined only to keep a ftri6l eye on his conduft ; when 
 the arrival of two boats, from the northward, in the cove we are 
 in, opened a ftrange and unexpedled fcene. 
 
 As they approached us, Lieutenant * * * betrayed the ftrongeft 
 
 9 fymptoms
 
 I 77 1 
 
 iymptoms of uneafinefs. He gravely bade us prepare for death 3 
 
 'b'and, unaccountably, made thefe new-comers privy to our fate. 
 It was in vain that we affured him, they could have no intima- 
 tion of any ill which was meant us ; ftrangers as they were, and 
 accidental as our meeting had been. Such an unhappy prepof- 
 feflion had he taken againft the Arabians in general, that no 
 opinion, no reafoning of ours, could avail. We knew that he 
 had but little knowledge of the Arabic language ; but every word 
 
 ft' that had an affinity to thofe of wicked purport, was converted, 
 by his diftempered imagination, into the very mifchief itfelf; as 
 his infefted fight, in like manner, turned flicks into fpears, and 
 knives into daggers. The ears of Ibrahim were open as well as 
 
 ./his, and his ready apprehenfion of the language would have ad- 
 
 :tii.vertifed us of danger, if any were at hand. 
 
 It had been whifpered to us, that fome money had been given 
 to our nokidah laft night ; and we were now not a little afto- 
 -nifhed to find from Lieutenant » * * himfelf, that the fum was 
 no lefs than y^ Venetians, which he had divided between the no- 
 kidah and pilot, to fave his life. He lamented, however, that it 
 was in vain ; for our deaths were fixed upon, and we fliould foon 
 follow Captain Bacon and the gentlemen in the Adventure, 
 who, he vehemently affirmed, had been maflacred fome days be- 
 fore. To divert thefe ftrange thoughts as much as poffible^ a 
 flave-boy of Major Alexander's played on the fiddle, while the 
 Arabs in the other boats, joined us with their kinds of mufic. 
 We had fupped, and were looking at feme fifh, which were play- 
 ing about the boat, when Lieutenant * * * fuddenly fprang from 
 his feat, with two fwords in his hand, and running to the ma-'' 
 jor, gave him one fword to defend himfelf, and attempted to 
 draw the other, as he faid his life was in danger, from a man 
 near the mainmaft of the boat, who had a poniard in his hand. 
 The boat was immediately filled with confufionj the crew 
 
 erouded
 
 [ 78 ] 
 crouded togetlier in the flern, and called out to the otiier boat, 
 which pulhed away from us in hafle. The matter was too cri- 
 tical to be trifled with; and the frenzy of our companion had 
 become too confpicuous, to be palliated. He was accordingly 
 feized, and difarmed by us ; and, in the fti'uggle, the major re- 
 ceived a flight wound in the foot, from the other's fword. 
 I We now began to be alarmed for ourfelves. The fl:range 
 boats might judge from appearances, that we had hoftile inten- 
 tions, and perhaps, attempt to fecure themfelves, in a manner 
 not very agreeable to us. The nokidah of ours came to us, and 
 pofitively declared, that he would not get under fail again, 
 while Lieutenant * * * remained on board. It was to no pur- 
 pofe that we offered to pledge our lives for the fafety of himfelf 
 and crew ; and to keep a conftant watch on our: unhappy 
 friend. The man was flartled at the mad freaks which had been 
 committed ; and owned to us, that he thought our lives in equal 
 danger with his own : as in his frantic fits. Lieutenant * * * 
 would not be able to diflinguifli his friends from his imaginary 
 foes. The reader may fuppofe that this inflnuation made no 
 imprefllon upon us. Our repugnance in parting with our com- 
 panion in fo melancholy a fituation, awakened all our elo- 
 quence, and redoubled our efforts to keep him with us. For 
 fome hours did we argue the matter with our nokidah and 
 pilot, who had now joined him. But they remained deaf to 
 our remonfl:rances. We found ourfelves reduced to the necef- 
 flty of either foregoing our voyage, or complying with thefe 
 fellows' demand, of defiring Lieutenant * * * to return to Yambo 
 U43on one of the boats near us. This boat is afterwards to pro- 
 ceed to Judda ; where he will find Captain Bacon, and be certain 
 of being accommodated in his veflel. 
 
 When we faw there was no alternative, but what had been 
 popofed to us, we were fain to acquiefce, however fl:rong our 
 
 3 relu6lance
 
 [ 79 ] 
 
 relu<5lance to fuch a meafure. But on a ferlous review of it. 
 Lieutenant * * * 's intereft may have demanded it, as much as 
 our own. The bufinefs we are engaged in, is of too great con- 
 ffequence to be forgone ; and by his going to Judda, we are af- 
 certained that he is likely to meet with the afliftance which his 
 unfortunate cafe requires, from the furgeon of the Swallow floop 
 of war. Whereas, by proceeding with us, his malady would 
 daily encreafe, by the force o-f the terrors which he enter- 
 tains of our Arabs. And fome months would perhaps elapfe 
 before he could receive the advice of an European furgeon; 
 The opportunity of removing him might never occur again ; 
 and the idea of beholding him funk in the lafl ftage of mad- 
 nefs, bound hand and foot, and out of the reach of medi- 
 cine, prefents a pifture too diftrefllng to encounter, even in fan- 
 cy. A letter was therefore written to Captain Bacon, with a 
 fummary of the untoward affair. We requefted him to fuppiy 
 Lieutenant * * * with the money which he had paid for his fhare 
 of the boat ; for which Captain Bacon was to call on our attornies ^ 
 in India. 
 
 Our nokidah now hailed one of the boats, and induced it to 
 draw near us again. He related the caufe of the late difturbance, 
 and agreed with the mafter of it, to land Lieutenant * * * and 
 his flave-boy at Yambo, and afterwards carry him to Judda. 
 He was now afked the amount of the fum, which he had 
 received the laft night from Lieutenant * * *. The nokidah 
 and pilot produced. 25 Venetians, which they declared were all 
 he had given them. It was impoffible to difcover the truth. 
 Lieutenant * * * might perchance be miflaken, and they be apt 
 to deceive us in fuch a point. It appears, however, of little mo- 
 ment to our poor friend ; who is in a mood to give away all his 
 money to the firft man he is diftruftful of. 
 
 It was now midnight,, and Lieutenant * * * feemed defirous 
 
 of
 
 C 80 ] 
 
 01 pafling the night with usj which he once more folemnly 
 averred, was the laft which he or we fhould ever know. As 
 we were not to pait until day-break, we readily affented to this 
 defire. We prevailed on him to lie down on one of onr beds, 
 as he was afraid to remain in his own. At his own requeft, 
 and for the fatisfa6lion of our Arabs, Mr. Hammond and my- 
 felf kept watch over him until morning. I do not remember to 
 have ever been engaged in a more difagreeable office;. Our hu- 
 manity was wounded by the objeft before us ; and our con- 
 fciences were touched at a refolution, which we had been 
 obliged to adopt in our own defpite. The reader of fenfibility 
 will feel for our perplexity. Not a wink of fleep did our 
 charge get during the night. He flarted up every moment in 
 \m bed, or called out to us to know, what villain ftood behind 
 him with a drawn fvvord ! He feemed not to apprehend danger 
 from the other boats -, or to dream of allaflins, but among our 
 own people. 
 
 SATURDAY, 14th June. 
 
 At day-break the fignal was made for failing. Lieutenant 
 * * * ai'ofe, rather more compofed than ufual, and permitted his 
 baggage to be put into the other boat, without complaining. 
 He had rcfledlion enough at this moment, to fee the neceffity of 
 our feparation j and allured us, that he held himfelf in no more 
 danger in one place than another. It was his firm opinion that 
 our deftiny was certain, whether in this veflel or that, at Yambo 
 or at Judda. We paid for his palfage, and gave the mafler of 
 the boat a verbal meflage for the vizier, to advertife him of our 
 companion's fituation, and to requeft his good offices, in getting 
 him conveyed fafely to Judda. Our letter for Captain Bacon, 
 we committed to the ilave-boy, together with his mailers 
 
 fwords
 
 C 8i ] 
 
 fwords and keys. This is a flirewd honeft boy, who we make 
 no doubt will be as careful as he can be, of his mafter, on this 
 fhort paflage. We had the fatisfa6tion to perceive, that Lieu- 
 tenant * * * left us much more readily, than we could have ex- 
 pe6led. Though his antipathy to the Arabs is rooted in his pre- 
 fent diforder, he diftinguiflies ours more particularly, in his 
 diftrufl ; and perhaps, the quitting their Company, is a temporary 
 relief to his mind. Fortvmate did we hold it, that not an angry 
 word was requilite, to haften his departure i affefted as we were 
 at the fituation of a perfon, whom we had fome regard for, and 
 averfe to embittering the potion which was prepared for him. 
 Our principal confolation arofe from the wind being fair for his 
 return. It enfured his reaching Yambo in a few hours ; and 
 might throw him even in the way of the Adventure, which we 
 had feen at the mouth of the harbor but two days before. At 
 all events, we depended on the vizier's treating him with the fame 
 humanity as before ; and complying with the requefl, which we 
 had made in his behalf. 
 
 The boats had not long left us with Lieutenant * * *, when 
 a breeze of wind came off the land. We prefently got under 
 fail, and had made a good flretch along fhore, when the wind 
 fuddenly came ahead, and blew fo ftrong, as to oblige us to tack 
 about, and look for a fhelter from its fury. We ran back a 
 good way on this defign, and at ii A. M. entered a large bay 
 encircled by a reef of rocks, to which we faftened our boat, in 
 the manner before defcribed. This bay is called Jeraboop, by 
 tlie Arabians. In the middle of it there is an ifland, on which 
 ftands a prieft's houfe. His name is Beridi, and we underfland, 
 that he is vifited by all the faithful who pafs by, on account of 
 his extreme piety and old age. We were too much taken up 
 with the late misfortune which had befallen our fociety, to in- 
 
 M dulge
 
 [ 8a ] 
 
 dulge curiofity } and left our Arabs to pay their devotions on the 
 ifland alone. 
 
 We could get no obfervation at noon. The wind blew very 
 violent the whole day from the N. W. but there is no fea in this 
 bay, though it is two miles acrofs from the rocks to the fiiore, 
 which is here as mountainous as ufual. We caught fome beau- 
 tiful rock-fifli in the evening, with our hooks. They were well 
 tafted, and encouraged us to hope for fuch refreihments, at other 
 places on the coaft. The wind increafed during the night, and 
 threatens a ftorm. 
 
 SUrlDAY, 15th June. 
 
 We cannot move this morning, as the wind ftill remains con- 
 traiy : the weather is very boifterous without, but we may laugh 
 at the ftorm, which idly fpends its rage on the reef of rocks, 
 that rifes up, like the fevenfold fhield of Ajax, between us and 
 danger. Never was a coaft fo provided by nature, with a barrier 
 againft the hoftilities of the fea or of mankind. The very furge 
 is not permitted to lafh it. And all the navy of Europe would 
 be deterred by tliis formidable outwork, from approaching any 
 fortification which might be erefted on the fhore. What a pity 
 is it, that the country is not worthy of the difpofition, which 
 has been made in its favor ! There is no occafion for armies to 
 prote6l the coaft ; and it is certain, that Arabia Petrea is not 
 indebted to this line of rocks, for her fecurity. She poured forth 
 myriads of enthufiafts, under her v^'arlike fon Mahomet, in fearch 
 of more fertile lands. Nor does it appear, that her defarts, in 
 that interval, attrafted the avarice of foreign invaders. 
 
 We amufed ourfelves during the morning in catching fiflii 
 wiich readily take the bait here.- Some of them have a mouth 
 
 like
 
 [ 83 ] 
 
 like a parrot's beak, which our Arabs advife us not to eat. But 
 whether from then- unfeemly form, or their being really unwhole- 
 fome, Ibrahim could not difcover. At lo A. M. we faw a 
 boat Handing towards us, which we fuppofe to be bound to 
 Yambo. The people on board defcried us, and at eleven o'clock 
 ihe run fo near the reef we were upon, as to be within hearing. 
 We find flie comes from Suez, and learn that moftof the Englifh 
 vcflels have left that port. This was all the converfation that 
 we had with the boat, which put before the wind, and was foon 
 out of fight. We gather this confolation, however, from the 
 intelligence, that it is hkely the winds are about to (hift in 
 this quarter. We can no otherwife account for the departure 
 of' our Ihips from Suez, fo much earlier than we expcfted. Our 
 voyage may therefore, be more profperous than it promifed 
 to be. 
 
 We had no obfervation at noon, and the wind remained in 
 the N. W. quarter while we lay here. A poor woman waded, 
 and fwam through the water to our boat in the evening, and 
 was very thankful for fome meafures of rice which ftie took 
 away. 
 
 MONDAY, i6thJuNE. 
 
 We were awakened at one o'clock this morning, by the boat 
 getting under way. It is impolTible for the Arabs to perform 
 this manoeuvre, without our knowledge ; and though we loft our 
 reft by the noife on board, we were agreeably furprized at their 
 taking advantage of the light breeze, which came from the land. 
 With fail and oar, we made a fliift to go at the rate of a knot 
 and a knot and an half an hour, the whole night. At day- 
 break we faw a vefTel to the N. W. ftanding as we did. Our 
 people fay, that fhe is alfo bound for Suez, and has been out no 
 
 M 2 lef$
 
 [ 84 3 
 
 left than twenty days from Yambo. At 9 A. M. we difcovered 
 two more fail ahead. At ten we perceived a fhoal, which they 
 call Morfa, feme leagues dillant -, and at noon, two of the boats 
 appeared at anchor, within a point of land in the N. E. quar- 
 ter. We flood for them j but the wind had now fliifted to the 
 N. W. and it was the work of fome hours, to cany ourfelves 
 within the reef where the largeft veiTel was lying. We hooked 
 our boat clofe by her about 3 P. M. and underftand the bay 
 we are in is called Banas, By our obfervation to-day it lies in 
 the latitude of 24° 30' north. Cape Mahar within view to the 
 northward. We are much difappointed at finding what little pro- 
 grefs we have made fmce we left Yambo ; and particularly, after 
 having been at fea to-day no lefs than fourteen hours. But our 
 voyage bears an intimate refemblance to what the Greeks em- 
 barked in of old ; and by our mode of coafting alone, we can 
 eafily conceive UlyfTes to have been ten years rounding the fhores 
 of Greece ; without the intervention of any enmity, but what 
 the mariner may expe6l from the winds and waves. 
 
 In the evening we went on board the veflel by us. Her bur- 
 den and accommodations place her far above the ftile of our boatj 
 and we could not but repine at our lot, which had thrown us 
 into an open boat, when it is plain that fome of them are pro- 
 vided with cabbins. We were received very civilly by her noki- 
 dali, who tells us that he is going to Suez. He is fickly, and was 
 very thankful for fome medicines we fpared him, which we 
 brought with us for the complaint he is afflicted with. Thefe, 
 the Arabians never fail to folicit of Europeans, when they have 
 occafion for them, as they have a notion that we have one and 
 all of us, a fmattering in phylic. The wind frefhened, and blew 
 all night from the N. W. as ufual. 
 
 TUESDAY,
 
 r ^5 1 
 
 TUESDAY, 17th JuNF. 
 
 The wind is ftill contrary, and we cannot move this morning. 
 It blew fo ftrong at day-break, that our Arabs made our boat 
 faft with another rope, by a turn round a pointed rock. Where 
 we he, a man of war might ride in great fecurity. There are 
 ieveral fathoms of water clofe by the rocks, which break the 
 force of the fwell that tumbles down from the N. W. the reef 
 at low water is every where dry, and we then pick up plenty of 
 fifh among the crevices of the rocks. While we have this fup- 
 ply, we fliall'^not be at a lofs for provilions. We have ftill a 
 iheep left, and fliall referve a few fowls which we got from the 
 Adventure, for more neceflitous times. 
 
 At 8 A. M. the nokidah of the large vefTel paid us a vifit. It 
 was partly to return our compliment, but his principal bufmefs 
 was to look at our chart of the Red Sea. Our Arabs tell us 
 that he is one of the beft pilots of their nation. On a review of 
 this chart we find it tolerably exd.£t, as to the names of the 
 iflands and headlands on this coaft. It is our intention, in the 
 courfe of our voyage, to correal it where it is faulty, and to 
 point out all the reefs and (hoals between Yambo and Cape 
 Mahomet. We have the advantage of being with pilots, who 
 are acquainted with every creek and corner of the coaft ; and 
 may gather fuch information of the track, as will prove of 
 fervice to veiTels thrown by currents on this dangerous fhore. 
 The fellow's furprize was very great, to hear places named by 
 ftrangers, which only thofe of his own profeffion among his coun- 
 trymen were acquainted with. They have no fuch thing as a 
 chart } but his natural fagacity quickly made him comprehend 
 the plan of ours. But as we are the firft Europeans whom he 
 has heard of in this navigation, he cannot reconcile to himfelf,. 
 5 how
 
 r 86 ] 
 
 liow the fituation of thefe iflands could have been taken by vef- 
 fels that dare not approach them. He has not the leaft idea of 
 the ufe of the quadrant -, and he conceived that we were rather 
 making difcoveries in the heavens, than afcertaining our latitude 
 below. 
 
 We began to keep a regular watch to-night. Each gentleman 
 and his fervant to take two hours in rotation. We fliall run no 
 rilk, it feems, until we get among the iflands, but it is prudent 
 to inure ourfelves in time to a neceflary habit. There were hard 
 gales from the N. W. all day and part of the night. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, iSth June. 
 
 We were under way at 6 A. M. with the wind at N. by W. 
 and. ftood out to fea. But the wind was too moderate to be of 
 much fervice to us, againfl the heavy fwell which the late blow- 
 ing weather has occafioned. We tacked therefore at lo o'clock, 
 and the wind coming round more to the W- we were enabled, 
 contrary to our expe6lations, to fetch a reef to the northward 
 of Cape Mahar about 2 P. M. There is another boat at anchor 
 about a mile to the northward of us, fuppofed alfo to be bound 
 to Suez. Our boat beats better to windward than the two which 
 were in company with us yefterday. The largeft of which has 
 run into fliOre near a league to the fouthward, and the other 
 within a mile of us. » 
 
 We were difappointed of an obfervation to-day by the high 
 lands to the fouthward, which obftrufled our view. Our pro- 
 grefs however has been very little. Were not the full moon at 
 ^land, we fhould look for little fuccefs in beating up fuch a coafl 
 as this. A few days of a foutherly wind would give us a good 
 ihove in the fliort diitance we are going ; and all our hopes reft 
 on the influence of this ufeful planet. The gentle light which 
 z flie
 
 [ 87 J 
 
 file now affords us during the night-feafon, proves a great relief 
 to us after the funfhine of the day, in this fultry month. But 
 difficult as we find it to keep ourfelves cool in the day-time, it 
 is no eafier matter to defend our bodies from the damps of the 
 night, when the wind is loaded with the heavieft dews that ever 
 fell. To be in readinefs for every change of wind in our favor, 
 we are obliged to forego the benefit of the awning I mentioned. 
 We lie expofed to the whole weight of the dews, and the cloaks 
 in which we wrap ourfelves, are as wet in the morning, as 
 if they had been immerfed in the fea. It is plain, however, that 
 they are not impregnated with "the bad qualities, which render 
 people fo fearful of the dew in moll parts of the world, or our 
 conllitutions would have evinced the faft. 
 
 The weather was very moderate during the night, and the 
 wind remained in the ufual quarter. We relieved our watch re- 
 gularly, as the night before, and find that a little practice will 
 make it eafy to us. 
 
 THURSDAY, 19th June. 
 
 We got under fail at day-break with the wind at N. and ftood 
 out to fea until 10 o'clock. The wind now heading us, we 
 tacked and lay up along fliore. Our courfe was but flow, but 
 we continued gaining ground until 2 P. M. when we ran into 
 a fine bay, and brought to, on a reef within an hundred yards 
 of the beach. We are not at all- difpleafed with the working of 
 our boat. She has run her two conforts out of fight, and beat 
 the boat which was a-head of us yeflerday. There was a con- 
 tell between them the whole morning, and the viflory declared 
 in favor of our boat, which has fetched a mile to windward of 
 the other. However contemptible the prize, there is a feci-et fa- 
 tisfaftion in being fuperior to our neighbors on every occa- 
 
 fion.
 
 [ 88 ] 
 
 fion. And I doubt, whether the winner at an horfe-race could 
 have exulted more, than we did at our dexterity, in beating a 
 veflel, much worfe found than ours. 
 
 The bay we are in, is in the latitude of 24° 36' N. by an 
 obfervation which we took to-day. To the W. it is defended 
 by a reef of rocks, and the high land to the northward and 
 eaftward, would fecure it from a ftorm in thofe points. There 
 is water enough within for the largeft fhips ; but it is very un- 
 certain, whether they could gain admittance within the reef 
 that guards this coaft. It is not always that we difcern that 
 reef to the weftward of us ; but there is every reafon to imagine, 
 that we are ftill faihng within it ; and that the rocks are only 
 more funken in thofe places, where the fea is not feen to break 
 upon them. It was accident alone, that brought the Adventure 
 tlirough this reef before our arrival at Yamboi and it would 
 be the fame chance, that would fleer a veflel of her burden into 
 this bay, clear of the dangers which impede the palTage. 
 
 To atone, in fome meafure, for the want of exercife in our 
 prefent fituation, we make a pra6lice of going into the water 
 regularly before fun-fet. The coves we lie in, are very conve- 
 nient for this purpofe ; and we find great benefit, as well as re- 
 frelhment, from the fait water. 
 
 FRIDAY, 20th June. 
 
 We weighed at day-break, and ftood out to fea, with the wind 
 atN. N. W. At 7 A. M. we faw the ifland of Hafana, bear- 
 ing about N. N. W. at the dift-ance of eight leagues. At 
 eight, we ran by a funken rock, above three leagues from the land j 
 and at the fame time we difcerned breakers upon our lee-quarter, a 
 league further in the fea. At ten we tacked with the wind at W. 
 and ftood along the coaft. At eleven we came amiong a number of 
 
 breakers.
 
 [ 89 ] 
 
 breakers, that extend three or four leagues into the fea. Our pilot 
 appears to be well experienced in this navigation. He difplayed his 
 dexterity to-day, by running us through narrow channels, and 
 almoft brufhing the rocks to the windward of the boat. This is 
 as dangerous a part as we have {een of this coaft ; nor would it be 
 poffible for a fliip, without an Arabian pilot on board, to ftoer 
 through this net of rocks and llioals, except by a miracle. 
 
 We proceeded under an eafy fail for fome hours. The weather 
 was remarkably hot, and we were expofed, as ufual, to all the rage 
 of a vertical fun. But we had the fatisfadlion to refleft, that we 
 were gaining fomewhat on our way. And this ferved to alleviate 
 the inconveniences to which we are fubjefted by our fituation. 
 The fatisfadlion, however, was tranlient. The wind headed us 
 at two o'clock, and we were obliged to run into fliore by another 
 boat, which is faid to be bound for Suez. We had the mortifica- 
 tion ftill not to keep the ground which we had fo happily attain- 
 ed. The pilot did not like the birth, and ran back again to the 
 fouthward, in fearch of another. It is impoffible to portray the 
 countenances which we exhibited during this manoeuvre. We 
 could not contain our vexation, and remonftrated pretty warmly 
 with the pilot, on his fporting with our good fortune, and throw- 
 ing away the advantages which we fo feldom obtained. He lent a 
 deaf ear to our complaints ; and went near a league, before we ar- 
 rived at the bay where he intended to pafs the night. Here we 
 came to on a reef, at 4 P. M. and found the water not deep enough 
 to admit vefiels of any burthen. Ourobfervation at noon brought 
 us into the latitude of 24° 46' N. The wind was moderate all 
 night from the N. W. 
 
 N S A T U R-
 
 f 90 ] 
 
 SATURDAY, 21ft June. 
 
 Wc were rouzed at three this morning by the boat getting under 
 way. Our beds take up the breadth of the boat, and were we 
 ever fo much overpowered with lleep, the tramphng of the ma- 
 riners' feet upon our bodies, would foon chafe away all inclina- 
 tions of that nature. There was a light breeze from the land, 
 and the moon being at her full juft before it fprang up, flatters our 
 hopes of more favorable winds for fome days to come. We went 
 cafily along until day-break, when the high land of Hafana ap- 
 peared, bearing N. W. at the diilance of fix leagues. This ifland 
 is in the form of a fusrar-loaf, and rifes like an exhalation from 
 the fea. At 9 A. M. a fine breeze fprung up from the S. E. and 
 at noon we anchored in a fmall bay, off the northernmolf point of 
 Hafana, We were much out of humor at this delay, but found 
 it impoflible to prevent the Arabs flopping, for purpofes unknown 
 to us. It is an hardfliip on us, to lofe the benefit of a fair wind, 
 with a month's provifion and water on board. But we are obliged 
 to confider the refolutions of thefe people as law, in every tiling 
 that refpe<fts the management of the boat. 
 
 The ifland of Hafana is a baiTen rock, inhabited only at parti- 
 cular feafons, when the natives from the continent bring off wood, 
 water, and provifions, for the conveniency of veffels that pafs to 
 and fro. They ere6t temporary habitations for their families, and 
 live chiefly upon the fifh with which this coafl: abounds. This 
 ifland is not more than two leagues long, and about half as broad. 
 It lies about three leagues from the main, and in the latitude of 25° 
 3 ' N. by this day's obfervation. Here we found three boats, bound 
 likewife for Suez. They mean to jom us to-morrow, in order to 
 pafs the cluflerof iflands that lies to the northward of this. This 
 we learn from our nokidah ; who affures us that the Buddoos, or 
 
 Q; wild.
 
 C 91 ] 
 
 wild Arabs, infeil: thofe parts, and make no fcruple to attack a 
 fingle boat. It was one reafon for his calling here, if we are to 
 take his word i and though we hold ourfelves flrong enough to 
 venture fingly through this fea, all argument and difpleafure on 
 om* fide, are equally vain. 
 
 The wind blew brilkly from the S. E. the remainder of the day, 
 and continued in the fame quarter until we retired to reft. The 
 lofs of time did not add more to our difcontent, than did the in- 
 dolence and phlegm of our Arabs. 
 
 SUNDAY, 22d June. 
 
 Our nokidah and pilot both lay afhore laft night, fo that It 
 was not prafticable for us to have failed, had our inclinations only 
 been confulted. A land breeze came off from the N. E. about 
 an hour before day- break, and at 6 A. M. we fent Ibrahim afliore 
 to haften our people. He returned with an anfwer, that the 
 other boats were not ready, and that it was fruitlefs to urge the 
 necelTity of our affairs, or to expe>5t their departure a moment be- 
 fore their own time. 
 
 It is more than probable, that the fnow Aurora was wreck- 
 ed on the back of this ifland in the month of December ; a cir- 
 cumftance which has been already noticed in this work. The 
 captain's journal places the ifland in this latitude; and we have 
 fufhcient proofs of a wreck being in this neighborhood. The 
 beach is covered with a number of * teak-timbers, knees, and 
 bolts of a vefTel ; and a fine Englifli-built cutter lies upon the 
 ftrand, which is new, and in good repair. 
 
 * The teak-tree is a native of India, and its timber refembles oak fo much, that 
 it is ufed throughout the Eaft for Ihip-building. It is thought to furpafs oak in point 
 of duration. 
 
 N 2 At
 
 [ 92 ] 
 
 At nine we weighed, in company with five boats, and flood to 
 the eaflward, with little or no wind. At ten a fine breeze fprung 
 up from the S. W, and we ran by a number of fhoals and breakers 
 to the windward of us, that are four or five leagues from the 
 main. At eleven we pafTed a fandy ifland, from which there ap- 
 pears to ftretch a connefled line of breakers to the ifland of Ha- 
 fana. Within this line we have made our run to-day. At 2 P. M. 
 we anchored to the eaflward of the ifland of Harama, which lies 
 about fix leagues to the northward of Hafana. We had no ob- 
 fervation at noon, but we conclude it from our reckoning to be 
 in the latitude of 25° 20' N. This is a low fandy ifland, extend- 
 ing about two miles in length, and half a mile in breadth, and 
 fituated about a league from the main. There are a few huts 
 near the place we are anchored at, which ferve to fhew the po- 
 verty of the inhabitants, and that we have little to fear from 
 them, though we perceive that there are boats belonging to the 
 ifland. 
 
 From this day's navigation we are convinced, that no fliip can 
 approach this part of the coafl of Arabia, with any degree of fe- 
 curityi as the fea is all along foul with fhoals and rocks, and we 
 frequently faw breakers to windward of us, which could not be 
 lefs than fix or feven leagues from the land. The wind was va- 
 riable during the night, but blew chiefly from the weflward. 
 
 MONDAY, 23d June. 
 
 ',«- We weighed at day-break, after taking on board a couple of 
 fheep, which we purchafed here for three dollars each. There 
 was a brifk breeze from the E. N. E. with which we flood along 
 the coafl. At feven o'clock we pafTed the fmall ifland of Abu- 
 mellie, which is furrounded by breakers. Here v/e difcovered an 
 Arab family afhore, and a boat put off with fome of the men, to 
 
 vifit
 
 [ 93 ] 
 
 vifit our people. This ifland is bare of every thing but a few 
 bufhes, and does not lie half a league from the main. At eight 
 the wind came round to N. which obliged us to Hand out more 
 to fea. Our bark is, indeed, a prime failor, and no veffel 
 which we have met with, can keep pace with her. But this is 
 rather a difadvantage to us, as our pilot daily foregoes the fuperi- 
 ority he has gained, to keep company with the other boats. He 
 now inclined more to the weftward than was neceffary. His in- 
 tention was evidently to loiter for our conforts. We cannot pre- 
 vent the delay which this plan mufl occafion, during our difa- 
 greeable voyage. Our Arabs feem refolved to grant their coun- 
 trymen the proteftion which our company may afford them ; 
 and at the fame time, they are not wanting to perfuade us, that 
 our fecurity confifts in going together. 
 
 The run to-day has been very clear, and the coaft appears more 
 fertile, than we have feen it on this fide of Mocha. At 2 P. M. 
 we tacked and ran into fhore. To our great difappointment, we 
 could not weather a bluff point ahead j and the pilot ran back 
 near a league, before he could find a fecure birth. At length he 
 came to, on a reef clofe to the fliore before four o'clock, where 
 we were prefently joined by two of our fleet. We could get no 
 obfervation at noon, on account of the high land to the fouth- 
 ward ; but, by our reckoning, we take the place which we now 
 lie in, to be in the, latitude of 25° 38' N. 
 
 We had more exercife for our phyfical fkill this evening. There 
 
 is a boy. lying fick of a fever, on board one of the boats near us 5. 
 
 and on application for relief, we fent him fome cooling draughts, 
 
 to be repeated according to the directions which we received. 
 
 But fome bowls of weak tea, which the boy more readily took, 
 
 produced an immediate perfpiration, and feem more likely to 
 
 promote his recoveiy. Our fuccefs will not fail to recommend us 
 
 to the Arabs. The wind blew from the S. W. a great part of the 
 
 night. 
 
 TUESDAY.
 
 ['94 ] 
 
 TUESDAY, 24th June. 
 
 We got under fail at day-break, with a fine breeze from the 
 land, in company with the two boats. The other three appear- 
 ing above a league aftern. We kept about half a league from 
 the fliore, but found the water fo fliallow, that we hold it im- 
 poflible the annual Judda fliip fliould go to Suez in this track. 
 There were breakers the whole way, fome leagues without us. 
 Several fandy iflands are fcattered about this part of the coafl, 
 which are laid down in the chart. The fhore is now covered 
 with undei'wood, and interfperfed with date-trees ; but no inha- 
 bitants have come into view. 
 
 At 8 A. M. the wind died away, and our crew took to their 
 oars and rowed out to fea, in hopes of meeting with the fea- 
 wind. The channels liere, in many places, will fcarcely admit 
 our boats between them ; and the rocks around us, fland out of 
 the water, and are covered with the largeft birds which were 
 ever feen. The Arabs call them Meriah. They have a pro- 
 digious long bill and long legs, which enable them to catch fifli 
 in near a fathom water. The current feems to be for us, but 
 we have no opportunity to try it. At nine we came up with 
 the fouthernmofl point of the ifland of Naaman, which is laid 
 down in the chart in 26° 6 ' north ; with fands about it. But 
 this we find to be an error. The ifland begins in the latitude 
 of 25" 50' and extends to 26' 6 'north; and although at a dif- 
 tance, it might be taken for a number of different iflands, on a 
 Hearer view, it proves to be one continued land, overflown in 
 feveral quarters at high water. We run between this ifland 
 and the main, through very clear and deep water, with a fl:rong 
 breeze at W. S, W. Latitude per obfervation 25° 50'. 
 
 At 3 P. M. we opened a cove within a reef of rocks, and 
 
 anchored
 
 [ 95 ] 
 
 anchored clofe on the Arabian coaft, where one of our fleet had 
 ah-eady arrived. The reft we fairly ran out of fight to-day, ex- 
 cept a boat of cur own fize, commanded by our pilot's brother ; 
 which ftopped at Naaman to procure a fupply of wood. By our 
 reckoning, we take our anchoring-place to be in the latitude of 
 26° north. At fun-fet our nokidah weighed his anchor, and ran 
 out into deeper water, to prevent a furprize from the wild 
 Arabs, who frequent this neighborhood. The other boat fol- 
 lowed our example. Theie were calms and light airs the whole 
 night. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, 25th June. 
 
 We weighed our anchor at day-break, with a light breeze 
 from the land. The two boats were in company, and we went 
 under an eafy fail for fome hours. At 8 A. M. a fine gale 
 fprung up from the fouthward, and agreeably quickened our 
 courfe. We ran by feveral fandy illands, within a league and 
 an half of the main, and in fpite of the hot weather, entertained 
 our imaginations with the fairnefs of the wind, and the novelty 
 of the navigation. We had been a fortnight on board yefter- 
 day, and though we were advanced not a third of the diftance 
 to Suez, we had the fatisfaition to refle6t, that we had gained. 
 aJl our ground in the laft four or five days. For the firft week 
 our progrefs had been delayed by the misfortune of our com- 
 panion, and the ftrength of contrary winds. The winds are now 
 variable, and promife to be fo until the change of the moon. It 
 only depends upon our Arabs, to improve the occafion which 
 fortune prefents to us. 
 
 On fome of the iilands which we pafTed, were feveral birds, 
 larger even than thofe we faw yefterday. We pofitively mif- 
 took them for men at a diftance, wading in the fea ; and oiife 
 
 of
 
 [ 96 ] 
 
 of them was fo bold, as not to be feared at a fhot, which was 
 fired at it from our boat. At 1 1 A. M. the wind veered round 
 to the weftward, and our pilot thought fit to run under the 
 lee of a fandy ifland, where the other boats foon came to, like- 
 wife. With this wind we might have gone a great way fur- 
 ther to the northward, were we not in a manner fliut up 
 among fhoals and rocks, by keeping fo dofe to the fhore. By 
 our obfervation this ifland is in the latitude of 26° 7 'north. 
 
 Here our people gathered a quantity of eggs, which the 
 birds lay upon the fandy reefs. They tell us thefe eggs are 
 well-tafl:ed and wholefomej but we are not driven to fuch 
 flreights, as to be obliged to put up with all kinds of food. 
 The boy is much mended in his fever, and entertains a great 
 opinion of the virtues of tea. There were light airs from the 
 fouthward, and calms, during the night. 
 
 THURSDAY, 26th June. 
 
 We got under fail at day -break, in company with the two 
 boats. The wind was at S. E. and we ran eafily for fome hours, 
 through very foul water, with fandy iflands on each fide of us. 
 At 9 A. M. we came to, under a fmall ifland; where our noki- 
 dah tells us we muft wait for the refl: of the fleet, in order to 
 pafs fome iflands ahead, which are haunted by piratical Arabs. 
 The caution of this man begins to communicate itfelf to our 
 minds. Were there not fome danger lurking near us, he could 
 not be fo uniform in his behavior, or fo folicitous for the 
 jiun6lion of the boats behind us. As the wind frefliens from 
 the fouthward, we have hopes that the refl: of the fleet will join 
 us in a few hours. But this is little confolation to perfons in 
 our fituation, who are anxious to conclude our voyage, and are 
 obliged to forego a fair wind in a contrary raonfoon. This 
 
 ifland
 
 [ 97 ] 
 ifland is about four leagues from the main, and by our obferva- 
 tion, is in the latitude of 26° 8' N. There is a prieft dwells 
 upon it, called Morbeck, to whofe cell our Arabs are gone, to 
 pray for a fair wind, at a time that they are trifling one away ! 
 -To the fouth of this ifland there is a remarkable rock, which ap- 
 pears at a diftance, like a lion couchant. One of the boats 
 • is anchored by us, the other is gone to the continent to cut 
 wood. 
 
 At noon we difcovered two boats to the fouthward, and be- 
 fore 2 P. M. we were joined by all the fleet, except one boat 
 which is a bad failor, and lags behind. We immediately got 
 under fail, and fl:ood to the N. W. with a fine fea bi'eeze. We 
 ran briflcly through deep and clear water, until pafl: four o'clock, 
 when the wind coming round to the northward of wefl:, the 
 whole fleet flreered into fliore, and anchored clofe on the Arabian 
 coaft. The hindermofl: boat came up within a mile of us, fo 
 that we are now fix fail in company. This place, by our ac- 
 count, lies in the latitude of 26° 16 'N. 
 
 ^" We had fcarcely come to an anchor, when we difcovered ca- 
 mels and a number of women moving towards us. They proved 
 to belong to a wandering tribe of Arabs, who are wont to come 
 down in a friendly manner, to fell ftieep and water to vefl'els 
 that touch on the coaflr. Their appearance was truly miferable ; 
 and we could perceive but little difference between the human 
 and brute creation, whom nature had bred in this defart region. 
 Their wants, their appetites, and their infenfibility, bore an in- 
 timate refemblance together. And they were as much below 
 our envy, as above our compafllon. Light airs from the wefl: 
 all night. 
 
 \ 
 \ 
 
 O FRIDAY,
 
 I[ .98 1 
 
 FRIDAY, 27th June. 
 
 ;. We were difturbed in our firft fleep, by the fleet of boats get- 
 ting under way at one this morning. There was a light breeze 
 from the land, and with the help of our oars, we made a fhift 
 to go between two and three knots an hour. Our run was through 
 very foul and fliallow w^ater. At 11 A. M. we palTed a fandy 
 ifland, which is lofty, and makes like the ruins of a caftle (land- 
 ing in the water ; the fides perpendicular and appearing like 
 walls, and at one end, the face refcmbling a decayed tower. 
 The rocks in this fea are often thrown into fantaflic fhapes. 
 Some we have feen like boats under fail, and fome like animals 
 and men. 
 
 A fine breeze now fprung up from the S. W. and at noon we 
 ran by another ifland, fandy like the former, and lying within 
 four leagues of the main. By our obfervation, this iiland is in 
 the latitude of 26P 26' N. From hence we continued our courfe 
 through cleai' and deep water, until 3 P. M. when the wind 
 heading us, we flood into fliore, to fetch our pilot's brother, 
 whofe boat got the flart of us to-day, ai->d had come to an 
 anchor under the land. This was the boat that went for wood 
 yefterday, and we were afloniflied to fee a fine timber on board, 
 which fhe had picked up afliore. It is of teak, and being about 
 30 feet long, we conje£lure it to be one of the beams of the un- 
 fortunate Aurora, which the fea has cafl up again. The Arab 
 tthinks to get a good price for it, at fome of the ports in this 
 jfea. 
 
 This place, by our reckoning, is in the latitude of 26' 36' N. 
 
 Here we found an opening in the land, which difclofed a very 
 
 ^jdeep and romantic valley, where the fea, at times, appears to 
 
 tflow in to a confiderable depth. . Tlie fame chain of mountains
 
 r V9 ] 
 
 ftill continues within land, that" we have traced from "^'an^bo. 
 They only vary in the line, which in feme places, approaches 
 nearer to the coaft than in others. Four of our fleet not bein^ 
 able to reach us, bore away for anchoring-ground, which is not 
 in fight. This is no fmall mortification to us, who will be un- 
 der the neceffity of waiting for them. The wind blew from the 
 weilward during the night. 
 
 "'- / SATURDAY, 28th June. "^- 
 
 There was a fine breeze fprang up from the land before day- 
 break, but we did not weigh, in expeftation of being joined by 
 Jiie other boats. At 5 P. M. they came in view, but the force 
 of the wind was fpent, and we failed with little or no wind. 
 At 8 the wind came round to the N. W. and began to blow fo 
 frefh, that our pilot was fain to run under a reef of breakers, 
 which lies more than three leagues from the main. Here our 
 pilot's brother was already arrived, but none of the refl: of the 
 ■fleet could come up. Our fituation is very eligible. We are heire 
 defended from the violence of the weather, and are ready to flip 
 out, fliould the wind veer again to the eaft or fouth quarters. 
 As we advance on oiu- voyage, we have daily frefli matter of 
 .iurprize, and behold the intricacies of a navigation, which we 
 had no idea cauld exift in any corner of the globe. By our ob- 
 iervation, this reef is in the latitude of 26° 40' N. Cape Sellah 
 bears due north, at the diftance of fix leagues. 
 • This fea abounds with the large mother-of-pearl oyfters i and 
 our nokidah to-day gave us a proof of his agility, by jumping 
 out of the boat when under fail, and bringing up one of thefe 
 oyfters in two fathom water, in time to catch a rope from tlie 
 boat's quarter. Thefe fellows' dexterity in fifliing cannot be 
 fufticiently admired ; and wherever we are, we may depend 
 ■'■^- O 2 upon
 
 upon our mafter for a difh of excellent fifli. At low water 
 the reef appears fome feet above the level of the fea, and our 
 table was not unprovided with its ufual fervice. This circum- 
 ftance is very favorable to this coafting voyage ; as, whatever 
 other hardfhips they may endure, the want of provifion is not 
 felt by the mariners. 
 
 There were hard gales all day from the N. W. fo that we 
 could not quit our ftation. As the moon enters into her laft 
 quarter to-day, this contrary wind betides us no good, and we 
 apprehend there will be no change until the new moon. We 
 are become very fkilful in the influences of this planet ; but how 
 are they to be pitied, whofe fuccefs depends upon fo inconftant 
 a power ! The weather was more moderate during the night;. 
 TChe wind in the fame point. 
 
 - * 
 
 SUNDAY, 29th June. 
 
 At half paft fix this morning a light breeze came off the land, 
 and flattered us to leave our ftation. We weighed in company 
 with the other boat, and ftood to the N. N. W. but the wind 
 fhifting fuddenly to the W. N. W. and an ugly fwell being againft 
 us, before we had got a league, both the boats were obliged to 
 tack, and run back to their former birth under the reef. Here 
 we were joined by three more of our fleet at 9 A. M. They 
 had luckily made fuch a ftretch to fea, as to be able to reach this 
 reef, when the wind changed to the weftward. There was now 
 jbut one miffing boat, and at 10, we difcovered her at anchor 
 upon the reef, • about a league to the fouthward. Our fears of 
 the weather, axe now confirmed. We rauft look for delays for 
 fome days to come ; which, joined to fome circumftances of 
 our fituation, call forth all our fortitude to combat with cheer- 
 fully., -i-i:.,- ij.iK ; i,- "If- 
 
 .. > The
 
 The v/esther was very tempeftuous, and there were frequent 
 gales from the N.W. during the day. The night was more mo- 
 derate ; but we had a difturbance of another nature on board 
 our boat, which alarmed us at firft, but turned out to be a ludi- 
 crous, rather than a ferious adventure. 
 
 Befides our nokidah and pilot, there is another Arab on board, 
 as I have faid before. The reft of the crew are Abyfliniaiu", 
 During the firft watch at night, which it was my turn to keep, 
 this Arab, who was talking with his companions, fuddenly fell 
 upon the deck in the ftern of the boat, and to all appearance, 
 was feized with a convulfive fit. We were immediately in mo- 
 tion, and offered to adminifter fuch relief to him, as we had 
 fcen pra6lifed in the fame cafes. But our aftoniftiment was 
 great, when we found the Arabs would not permit any afliftance 
 to be given him. They declared, that he was only difordered 
 in mind, and that an evil fpirit poffefled him, who could only 
 be expelled by the force of prayer. Accordingly the nokidah. 
 began to pray over liim aloud, while two men held the un- 
 happy creature down, to prevent, as they faid, the ill effeds of 
 the temporary influence which over-ruled him. They told us 
 ftorie? of men in tliis fituation, who committed murder, and 
 every other atSl of defperation. This idea appeared fo extrava- 
 gant to us, that we treated it with ridicule ; and could not but 
 pity the ignorance of a people, who were fuch flaves to fuperftir- 
 tion. The notion was certainly imbibed from the demoniacs of 
 Paleftine, who are mentioned in the New Teftament. We have 
 fcriptural authority to believe their exiftence at a certain period. 
 But to fuppofe they have ftill liberty to enter into human bodies, 
 and that man has the fame power, as our Saviour pofiefTed over 
 fupernatural beings, are tenets worthy of a weak and unen- 
 lightened mind. We were much furprized,^ however, at the 
 kngth of the fit, which continued between two and three hours; 
 
 andj .
 
 it ,J02 ] 
 
 aad, from the fttorig agitations of his body, left the Arab in a 
 flate of imbecillity for the reil: of the night. But the devil was 
 at length exorcifed, and the nokidah remarked to us with tri- 
 umph, the great efficacy of prayer f la 
 
 ,Ij 
 
 MONDAY, 30th JoNE. ^ 
 
 " We weighed at fix this morning, in company with the four 
 boats, with a light breeze from the N. N. E. The other boat 
 i\ood after us at a diftance. Our run to-day was through very 
 deep and clear water, and, by the long and ugly fwell w^hich 
 tumbled in upon us from the N. W. we conje<5lure there is no 
 reef of rocks without this part of the coaft, and that a large 
 vefTel might iland in, without danger. Latitude, per obfervation, 
 ^6" 44' north. At twelve o'clock the wind hauled round to the 
 N. V/. and the whole fleet tacked and flood into fhore. At 
 4 P. M. we ran into a fmall inlet, defended from the fea by a 
 reef, and hooked ourfelves to a rock, within two fathoms of 
 the beach. Here we were joined by the reft of the fleet, ex*- 
 cept one boat which cannot keep up. 
 
 As we came in here, our nokidah told us to prime our fire- 
 arms, and prepare ourfelves for the reception of the wild 
 Arabs. He had fcarcely fpoken, when our old pilot leaped into 
 the water and fwam alliore, and with all the agility of youth, 
 afcended an eminence that juts into the fea, to learn if there 
 was any immediate danger. This inlet opens into a valley, on 
 each fide of which we have planted a centinel. The country has 
 refumed its barren appearance, and yields only a bruili-wood, 
 with which our fleet have fupplied themfelves. This place is 
 called Jebul, or Mount Lebel, and by our reckoning, lies in the 
 latitude of 26' 46 'north. ^r .:> 
 
 About half an hour after our arrival, a man and woman 
 I came
 
 [ I03 1 
 
 came down to us in a friendly manner, and aflured us we had 
 nothing to fear, as there were no buddoos in that neighbor- 
 hood at prefent. But our Arabs pay little attention to this 
 information -, and are fo fufpicious of this flation, that ws 
 doubled our watch during the night, and perhaps, would have 
 made an enemy repent of an intrufion at fuch a feafon. The 
 Weather was moderate during the night, but the wind {till re- 
 liiained in the N. W. quarter. 
 
 TUESDAY, ift July. 
 
 <j. We got uixder way at half pafl one this morning, with ^ 
 l^ht breeze from the land, in company with the four boats. We 
 flood along £hore with fails and oars, until 7 A. M. when the 
 wind heading us, we made a ftretch out to fea. At eight we 
 tacked with the wind at weft", and flood to the northward. At 
 nine we pafTed a little fandy ifland, about two leagues from tlie 
 main. At ten we ran clofe by a reef of rocks, about half a 
 league further in the fea. There was no fwell to-day, which 
 we attribute to our being within fhoals and reefs, and we faw 
 a rock fome leagues without us. But this may be owing to the 
 nature of narrow feas, where a fwell foon rifes, and as foon fub- 
 lides, as the wmd frelhens or moderates. 
 
 We fetched as high as we could on the Arabian fhore, and at 
 noon anchored in fmooth water, where three of the boats foon 
 joined us. The pilot's brother is a better failor than we, and 
 is anchored at leafl a league ahead. By our obfervation we ar*3 
 in the latitude of 26° 56 'north. The coaft is not fo hilly here, 
 and our people are lefs apprehenfive of a furprize. The wind re- 
 mained at N. W. during the reft of the day, but fo moderate^ 
 that we have great hopes of variable winds, if not a total change^ 
 at the new moon, which now approaches. We have only run 
 
 half
 
 f[ 
 
 M" ] 
 
 half the diftance between Yambo and Suez ; but a few days of 
 a foutherly wind would do our bufmefs. There were light airs 
 from the land in the night. 
 
 WEDNESDAY/2d JuLV. 
 
 •C'.' 
 
 •:^We weighed at day-break with a breeze from the land, i'tt 
 company with the three boats. We flood clofe in with the' 
 fliore, and went through fmooth andfhallow water until 9 A. M. 
 when the wind coming round to tlie N. W. we made a ftretch 
 out to fea, tacked, and weathered a fandy ifland ahead, where 
 ourpilot's brother lay to his veflel for us. This iHand, by our 
 reckoning, lies 'inC the latitude of 27' i ' north, and has a reef 
 of breakers, extending fome leagues beyond it to the N. W. It 
 is only inhabited by birds, of which we faw an amazing number 
 en the fliore. At eleven the wind heading us, we ran into the' 
 Arabian fliore, and at noon anchored in a cove, furrounded by' 
 high mountains, which rife perpendicular from the fea. Here 
 we found the pilot's brother, and were foon joined by the three 
 other boats. Our fleet now confifl:s but of five boats, the other 
 having been totally feparated from us. 
 
 ' *This cove is called Maraut by the Arabians, and by our ob- 
 fervation, lies in the latitude of 27° 3 'north. We have reafon to 
 think that Ras, or Cape Sellah, which is laid dovAm in the charts 
 in 27° north is twenty miles to the fouthward, and the land in 
 27° does not form a cape. We have our pilot's authority, as 
 well as our own obfervation, for this remark. 
 
 Towards the evening fome natives came down, with about a 
 dozen camels loaded with water. We were at too great a dif- 
 tance to be in danger of a furprize, and fent our people afliore 
 to feplenifli our cafl<s, which, with all our care, began to be low. 
 Her€ we likewife provided ourfelves with firewood; arid are told 
 
 3 there
 
 L i<55 ] 
 
 there is a fpring of water near the beach, which is the firft wc 
 have met with on this coaft. It is, however, Co very brackifh, 
 that nothing but neceflity could induce any one to drink it. 
 Our nokidah returned, with a branch of a very fragrant fhrub. 
 It grows wild among the rocks, and differs in appearance 
 and fmell, from any fpecies that we know of. The vicinity of 
 the natives made us double our watch during the night, which 
 was calmer than ufual. 
 
 THURSDAY, 3d July. 
 
 We got under way at day-break, with little or no wind; but 
 with our oars, we made a fliift to creep on at the rate of a knot 
 an hour. The four boats in company. At 9 A. M. the wind 
 came from the N. N. W. with which we made a ftretch out to 
 fea. We foon found that we could make nothing of it, and at 
 ten we tacked and flood into the land. We faw an ifland ahead 
 about four leagues to the northward, which we take to be the 
 ifland of Sufcha, as our chart names it, though our pilot calls it 
 Shaur. By our obfervatlon at noon, we were in the latitude of 
 27" 9 'north. Our run to-day has been through deep and clear 
 water, and as we have not obferved any reefs or fhoals without 
 ns> we have reafon to think a fl^ip might ftand clofe into the 
 Arabian coaft in this latitude. This is, in fa£l, but a matter 
 of opinion, founded upon fuch evidence, as the reader has before 
 him. We are neither mafters of our time, nor the motions of 
 our velTel, and our remarks can only arife from a fuperficial 
 view of things. 
 
 At I P. M. we anchored under a point of land on the main, 
 which we take, by our reckoning, to be in the latitude of 27° 12' 
 north. From hence we faw another ifland, bearing to the weft- 
 ward of Shaur. We are now approaching to the fcenes of dan- 
 
 P ger.
 
 [ io6 ] 
 
 ger, with which we have been fo long amufed by our Arabs ; and 
 have fome hopes that we fliall not be awaked to the reaUty of our 
 apprehenfions. We were foon joined by the reft of our little 
 fleet. The wind blew from the N. W. during the day, but very 
 moderately. 
 
 Towards the clofe of the evening, we difcovered a couple of wo- 
 men and fome canicls in the countiy, with the help of our glades. 
 This was fufHcient to put us more upon our guard, to prevent 
 ovir being furprized by thefe roving tribes. There were calms and 
 light airs from the northward, for the firft pait of the night. 
 
 FRIDAY, 4th July, 
 
 ■ We weighed at one A. M. with a light breeze from the land, 
 in company with the other boats. At fix a fine breeze fprung up 
 from the S. E. with which we ftood along the Arabian coaft. At 
 eight we ran by the ifland of Shaur or Sufcha, whofe fhores 
 are very fteep, and refemble decayed walls at a diftance. This 
 ifland is about two leagues in length, lies about two leagues 
 from the main, and by our reckoning, is in the latitude of 27° 
 20' N. A reef of breakers extend from the. ifland to the N. W. 
 on which we faw the wreck of the annual Judda fhip, faid to have 
 been loft here in a gale of wind in the year i774> on her way to 
 Suez. Her ftem and ftern, and many of her ribs, ftill appear 
 above the water, and pronounce her to have been of prodigious 
 magnitude. Indeed, the accounts of this Arabian galleon's bur- 
 den, are fo extravagant, that it might feem to offend credibility 
 to repeat tliem. I Ihall only obferve, that flie fails from Judda 
 m the month of March, and by following the track which we 
 have gone, as near as polTible, fhe is generally fifty days, or two 
 montlis, on her voyage to Suez: and, as it has happened this 
 year, from fome accident or other, Ihe fometimes gets no further 
 2 than
 
 [ 107 ] 
 
 than Tor. To fail in the performance of fo ftiort a voyage, in 
 the mofl favorable feafon of the year, would be an inexplicable 
 circumflance to a mariner, unacquainted with the navigation of 
 this extraordinary coaft. To us, who are no ftrangers to the 
 courfc, the wonder is, how a veffel of her great burden and un- 
 wieldy ftru6lure, can accomplifli the paflage at all. 
 
 At lo A. M. the wind hauled round to the weftward, and we 
 flood N. N. W. until eleven, when all the fleet bore away for the 
 land. After we had pafled the ifland of Shaur, an ugly fwell 
 came tumbling upon us from the N. W. Our run to-day was 
 through fhallow water, until we reached Shaur i but we found 
 very deep water between the ifland and the main. At noon we 
 anchored under a reef of rocks, above two miles from the Ara- 
 bian coaflr. Latitude, per obfervation, 27' 28' N. There is a pro- 
 digious high mountain inland, fome leagues to the northward of 
 us, on the top of which are two remarkable fpires, that refemble 
 a bull's horns. We faw a fire afliore, but no people. The wind 
 was W. all day, and part of the night. 
 
 SATURDAY, 5th July. 
 
 We weighed before one this morning, with a light breeze from 
 the land. The other boats were in company. At day-break the 
 wind came round to the S.E. with which we flood along the 
 fliore. There was an heavy fwell from the N. W. which confider- 
 ably impeded our progrefs. Our run to-day was through clear and 
 deep water. We looked out ahead for Mount Sinai, and flood on 
 until noon, when the wind Ihifting to the weftward, we tacked, 
 and the whole fleet flood into the land. Our latitude, per obferva- 
 tion, was 27° 49 'N. We now difcovered a large town ahead, which 
 our Arabs call Moilah. There is little doubt but it is the fame 
 place, which our chart erroneou fly lays down in 27° N. ahout 50 
 
 P 2 miles
 
 f ['9gc 
 
 ] 
 
 roi 
 
 miles to the fouthward. We faw an ifland to the N. W. which 
 our pilot tells us is Sanafir. At i P. M. we plainly difcerQed tli^i; 
 high land, which we take to be adjacent to Cape Mahomet, bea&r,.; 
 in§ W. N, yy.,..,At three the wind veering round to the Wy;^r 
 whole fleet anchored within a reef of rocks to the northward '©£,♦/ 
 Moilah, and about one league aiad an half from the fhore. 
 
 The mountain mentioned yellerday with the remarkable top, , 
 lies behind this town, which appears through our glaflbs to be a" 
 regular fortification, of a fquare figure. Our nokidah gives the 
 'inhabitants a very bad character, and tells us a ftory of their. ^p*-:"-; 
 cently feizing, and plundering a Judda boat, w hich put into the . 
 road through ftrefs of weather. At fun-fet, the fliore to th? Ntv/ 
 of the gulf of Akaba bore W. by N. Cape Mahomet we takcvtoso 
 bear due weft, as we have entered the gulf. By our reckonings • 
 this reef is in about the latitude of 27° 58 'N. The vvp>4;iQ<^ltilt^.• 
 n^ed at W. the remainder of the day. - ,t ' a 
 
 When the evening clofed in, all the boats run out into fix fi^nll 
 thorn water, on account of the vicinity of Moilah, of which placed 
 our Arabs have a very unfavoux'able opinion. After it was dark, 1 
 we faw many fires on the Arabian fliore, but. every thing, remain- 
 ed quiet during the night. The wind inclined towards the fouthTr;* 
 ward; - j o?ni(|93b 
 
 ' 'V ' . ''•'^' 
 
 SUNDAY, 6th July. 
 
 We got under way at two this moniing, in company with the 
 otlver boats, with the wind from the S. S. W. At day-break wq,, 
 fa\V the iiland of Sanafir, bearing W. by N. at the diftance of four 
 leagues and upwards. There are breakers without us, which pro- 
 bably extend, with little interruption, from the ifland of Shaur to 
 Sanafir. At 10 A. M. v/e came up with the latter ifland, and . 
 
 caiiife i6» Ulidfer it, to wait for iibme boats wluch fail worfe than.; . 
 
 ni ?On,ol ,i:;:u ; v ::«oi.:/--.r' k'J :;;- ^H n^^ ^'^ ^^ -^^^^ •
 
 ours: This Iflaiid is nothing but a high barren rAck; and hes in" 
 the latitude of 2S" 3 'N. We faw a turtle-fhell on the beach, but 
 could not procure a turtle here, or in any of the iflands we have 
 pafTed. At half paft ten we flood to the northward, in companjf' 
 with the whole fleet, and on opening a ftrait that divides this' 
 ifland into two parts, we difcovered two boats at anchor under 
 the land. On their perceiving us, they immediately got under 
 fail, flood towards us for a time, then- flackened their fail, and 
 after having amufed us for an hour and more, ran back into their 
 former flation. By thefe manoeuvres we concluded them to be 
 pirates, which was confirmed by their not anfwering the fignals, 
 which were made them by the rear of our fleet. Our nunfbers 
 only prevented their engaging us, and our Arabs bade us expe(5l: 
 to;fdU in with more veflels of this kind. The fliore of Sanafir is 
 very bold, and would admit of a large Ihip running clofe to it. 
 
 At noon we faw the ifland of Tiran bearing due weft, and the 
 ifland of Barkan N. W. The wind was ft:ill at S. S. W. when we 
 bore away for the ifland of Barkan. Thefe iflands are botli laid down ' 
 too far to the fouthward in the charts, as is the coaft adjacent to 
 Cape Mahomet. Latitude, per obfervation, 28" 7.' N. At 2 P. M. ' 
 the whole fleet anchored in a cove at Barkan. By running fo 
 deep into this gulf, we could not fl:and with this wind for Cape 
 Mahomet, which mufl: bear S. W. of this ifland. We have here 
 obtained a convincing proof of the neceflity, which boats are un- 
 der to fail in fleets on this coaft. Not more than five months 
 ago, four boats from Suez to Judda, were plundered at this, very 
 ifland of Barkan by pirates, and fome Greek and Turkifh paflen- 
 gers cut off by thefe barbarians. This ftory was confirmed by the 
 teftimony of fome of our fervants, who were aftiore, and faw 
 quantities of wheat and coffee fcattered about the beach. The ■ 
 wind hauled round to the S. E. at fun-fet, but. we di4 not move, . 
 the palfage to the Cajpe being too hazardous, we find, to rifk in 
 I the
 
 [ no ] 
 
 the dark. We were induced, from concurrent circumftances, to 
 double our watch during the night ; the belt part of which the 
 wind was from the fouthward. 
 
 MONDAY, 7th July. 
 
 We weighed at four this morning, in company with the other 
 boats, with a light breeze from the S, E. At day-break favv a 
 veflel fome leagues to the fouthward, {landing as we did. At 
 ten o'clock palled an illand within three leagues of the main, which 
 our pilot tells us, is Tiran. This information much furprized 
 us, as in our chart, Tiran lies fome leagues to the fouthward of 
 Cape Mahomet, whereas, by our reckoning, this illand lies in 
 28° 15', which is confiderably to the northward of the given la- 
 titude of the Cape. There is indeed an head-land to the north- 
 ward of this illand, which we took for Cape Mahomet ; but our 
 pilot tells us, that the Cape beai's S. W. of us, at the diftance of 
 feven or eight leagues. By our run yelterday and to-day, thecoaft 
 from the Cape to the top of the gulf of Akaba, runs nearly N. 
 and S. though our chart lays it down two points more wellerly. 
 This is not the only millake. This gulf is twice as broad as the 
 chart makes it, or we have been failing on dry ground the whole 
 dav. Latitude, per obfervation, 28° 14' N. 
 
 At I P.M. the wind hauled round to the S.W. and all the 
 fleet bore away to a reef of rocks that we had before paft, and 
 anchored under them, within 3 or 4 leagues of the main. It is 
 a mortification to us indeed, to be baffled in doubling the cape 
 with a wind, which we have fo anxioufly wiflied for, and which 
 is become foul inftead of being fair, by our having run up fo 
 high into this gulf, when we might have flood over dire^l from 
 Moilah to Cape Mahomet. 
 
 At
 
 [ 111 ] 
 
 At fun-fet the wind, to our great joy, came round to the E. S. E. 
 as it induced the whole fleet to get under fail, which we had never 
 before; done at night In weighing her anchor, the largefi boat 
 among us was near driving upon the rocks. The wind bl w frefh 
 upon them, and it is probable fhe would have been ftranded in 
 a few minutes, had not one of our people fwam off to her in time 
 with a rope, with wliich we towed her out of the danger that 
 threatened her. By the advice of our nokidah, we primed our 
 fire-arms anew, and fate up the whole night, to be the better 
 prepared for the reception of the pirates, who, he afliues us, are 
 acciiftomed to lurk in great numbers about Cape Mahomet. 
 This was doubtlefs a troublefome circumftance, but our minds 
 were fo taken up with our approach to the Gulf of Suez, that 
 there was not room left for difagreeable reflexions. With the 
 prefent wind we were in hopes of making the harbour of Tor 
 fome time to-morrow, and if a chance then appeared of our 
 having a tedious pafTage by water, we refolved to proceed by land 
 to Suez, as captain Dibdin's officers had purpofed to do, which 
 the removing of the cargo of the Judda fliip would, m all likeli- 
 hood, afford us a good opportunity of efFe6ling. The night was 
 ferene, and we flood on with the coaft under an eafy fail. 
 
 TUESDAY, 8th July. 
 
 About two this morning the wind fhifted to the N. N. W. and 
 we flood to the weflward, at the rate of three knots an hour. We 
 have left the reef of rocks behind us, or our Arabs would not go 
 on fo boldly on a foul coafl. Jull before day-break we laid down, 
 to take a fhort nap after our watching. By 7 A. M. we were 
 awake, and upon enquiring for Cape Mahomet, were much fur- 
 prized when the pilot pointed it out to us, bearing to the ibuth- 
 ward of us at the diflance of twelve or fourteen leagues. Our 
 
 difappointment
 
 [ 112 ] 
 
 difappointtiient was great at this information. We expelled to 
 have rounded the Cape before this, and had recourfe to our chart, 
 which only plunged us into frefh perplexity. We could only 
 folve the difficulty by fuppofing, that we had gone much higher 
 up the gulf of Akaba than we imagined ; and were now obliged 
 to fland to the fouthward, in order to double the Cape. At 
 eight we opened a gulf, which they tell us, is the gulf of Akaba, 
 and the head-land which we have come round, and took yefter- 
 day to be Cape Mahomet, muft be the true ifland of Tiran. This 
 coaft has been bolder than any other \vt have pafled ; and what 
 is remarkable, we did not fee aflioal or breaker, the whole morn- 
 ing. 
 
 Our latitude, per obfervation, was 27' 42' N. We were above 
 half a degree to the fouthward of yefterday, and this tended to 
 convince us, that we had been much deeper in the gulf of Akaba 
 than we fufpefted. We ftood W. and fometimes W. by S. as the 
 wind permitted. At i P. M. we faw two fail to the fouthward, 
 one of which our pilot fuppofes to have been the large boat, 
 which parted company with us long fince. At two the wind 
 Ihifted again to the fouthward, and all the fleet bore away for the 
 land to the weftward of us. At five we anchored under a rocky 
 iiland, within a league of the main, where we found a flrange boat 
 at anchor. None of the fleet, but the pilot's brother, fetched 
 this iiland befidesj but we are told they will eafily join us when 
 the wind changes. Oxir vexation is infinite, that our fituation 
 will not admit of our taking advantage of a foutherly wind. When 
 we have doubled the Cape, we may look for this wind in vain. 
 The pilot points it out to us, at the diftance of three or four 
 leagues, and talks of getting to Tor in the morning. 
 
 Juft as the fun fet behind the coaft we were upon, the ma- 
 riners of the ftrange boat obfer\'ed a couple of turtles, fwimming 
 from the reef we lie on, and immediately rowed out to fea after 
 
 them.
 
 "f "3 ] 
 
 them. It is common to turn thefe animals upon their backs, 
 when they are afleep on the fwtfface of the water } but it was a new 
 tiling to us, to fee them taken when awake, in their own element. 
 We could not but laugh at the attempt, but we had foon reafon to 
 condemn our own incredulity. The dexterity of the Arabs was 
 equal to it. One of them jumped out of the boat with a rope in 
 his hand, purfued, overtook, and after a ftruggle under water, 
 faflened a hook to the head of the largeft turtle in four fathom. 
 Itwas,w'th equal facility, run up into the boat, and brought in 
 triumph on board our vefTel. This creature weighs about two 
 hundred weight, and will furnifli a plentiful meal for the whole 
 fleet. The wind kept to the fouth moft of the night. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, 9th July. 
 
 The other boats came up to us at two this morning, when we 
 weighed with a fins breeze from the N. W. At three the gale, 
 encreafed fo much, as to fend us at the rate of fix knots an hour. 
 This made us uneafy, as we doubted the pofTibility of doubling the. 
 Cape. When the day broke, we faw high land to our right, 
 which we ftill took to be the Arabian coaft ; as we had not, to 
 our knowledge, parted with it. But as the fun rofe, we were not 
 a little aftoniflied at his fituation, which was quite the reyerfe of 
 what it ufed to be. We loft no time in calling upon the pilot, to 
 explain this phenomenon. He replied without emotion, that we 
 had pafled the Caps during the night, and that Tor itfelf was a 
 confiderable way behind us. We had no compafs on board, but 
 from the fun's pofition, we were certain that we were going to the 
 fouthward. We could not divine the reafon of this, except that 
 the bay in which Tor lies, was deeper than the chart defcribes it. 
 This idea fatisfied us for awhile -, and under this delufion we. 
 flood on at the fame rate, fometiraes doubting the fidelity of our 
 Arabs, and fometimes hoping that we were in the right courfe. 
 
 Q^ But
 
 C 114 ] 
 
 But we were at length awakened to a convi6lion of our fufpi- 
 cions. By our obfervation at noon, we found ourfelves to be in the 
 latitude of 26" 35' N. which is above a degree to the fouthward of 
 what we were yefterday. The deceit was too glaring, to be fur- 
 ther concealed from us. We had been looking out the whole 
 morning for the Egyptian fhore, as the gulf of Suez is not reck- 
 oned to be ten leagues in breadth. We were inftantly afcer- 
 tained that we were upon the Egyptian fliore. It now ftruck us, 
 that our boat was originally bound for Cofire, and that the vizier 
 of Yambo had put us on board of her, for the fake of referving 
 the major part of the freight to himfelf, which he adlually did re- 
 ferve, by the confefllon of the nokidah during the pafTage. So that 
 we got to Cairo, he did not care by what route. He had perform- 
 ed the Xerif 's orders, in difpatching us from Yambo, and as there 
 is a frequented track from Cofire to Cairo by the river Nile, it is 
 a fufficient referve for the confcience of an Arab. The vizier had 
 often prefied ns to go by the way of Cofire, which we had as 
 often rejefled, from the idea of its being a more uncommon and 
 dangerous road, than that by Suez -, and as we were not compli- 
 ant, he had thus tricked us into what we had determined to 
 
 •1 ftd <j 
 
 avoid. 
 
 In this perfuafion, we charged our nokidah and pilot with per- 
 fidy, and informed them, to their utter ailonifhment, that the 
 fliore before us, was the Egyptian, and that we were not many 
 miles diftant from Cofire. Their ideas of navigation are entirely^ 
 confined to the headlands and flioals, which lie upon the coaft ; 
 and to obtain a knowledge of our fituation from the quadrant, 
 was as new, as it was unintelligible to them. Their fear, how- 
 ever, of our refentment, made thefe fellows at firft perfift, that we 
 were bound for Suez ; to which falfhood they attefted by fwearing 
 by their beards J an oath the moft facred to MufiAiltnen. But 
 what perjuries will not fear lead mankind into ? Their notions of 
 
 3 Europeans"
 
 [ 115 ] 
 
 Europeans taught them to dread a detedion of then- behavior. 
 Their ignoraiice gave them hopes of impofmg this place upon us 
 ^orSuez; and they apprehended that their lives would be. the 
 forfeit of a premature difcovery. It was now plain, that they 
 had taken the advantage of the night before laft, to run over to 
 the Egyptian coaft. They had never before failed in the dark, 
 and they artfully contrived to deceive us, undei- cover of the 
 night. All our difficulties were now folved. We had been led 
 to miflake the gulf of Suez yefterday, for that of Akaba. It was 
 directly aftern of us when we awoke ; and we did not difcover 
 that we had made a new fhore. We had not at that time, the 
 moft diflant imagination of the treachery which was intended 
 -»s^ ,We were puzzled, indeed, to account for the courfe we 
 -kept } but the fituation of the coaft might oblige us to change 
 our dire(51:ion ; and the afllu'ances of the Arabs of our being 
 near the Cape, perfectly lulled us into a fatal fecurity. 
 
 The pen would convey but a lifelefs pi6lure of our feelings in 
 this important crifis. A thouiand circumftances crowded upon 
 our minds, to evince the cheat which had been put upon us. 
 Several boats had left Yambo for Cofire, preceding our departure s 
 and we had been informed, -that all boats bound for Cofire, were 
 ■obliged to make Cape Mahomet at this feafon, before they 
 ftretched over to the Egyptian fliore. The boats that we had 
 joined, were aftually thofe bound for Cofire j and we had failed 
 with them for above three weeks, under the belief of their being 
 deftined for Suez. It is not fo wonderful, that incidents of this 
 nature fliould have efcaped our notice. We mixed but little 
 with the Arabs, and were fuch ftrangers to their language, that 
 there was no occafion for their being upon their guard when 
 they converfed before us. But Ibrahim, our interpreter, had no 
 fuch excufe for his want of difcernment. Moments there doubt- 
 lefs were, when he might have fufpe^ted their defign, if they had 
 
 0^2 addrefs
 
 -[I ii6 ] 
 
 addrefs enough to conceal it partly from him. We have no 
 doubts of his honefty ; but from the fimphcity he has betrayed 
 in this matter, draw but a bad omen of his fervices in the enter- 
 prize before us. It is too late to hefitate upon the ftep we ai-e 
 to take. Refiftance is equally abfurd and vain. Neceflity, -with 
 all the force of a vortex, impels us forward. We cannot pre- 
 tend to carry the boat to Suez, contrary to the inchnations of 
 our mariners, and againft the northerly monfoon. We knovr 
 Cofire to be under the Turkilh government, and immediately 
 dependent on Cairo ; and we have the vizier's pafs, to afford us 
 a iafe-condu6t to that place. We have no doubt of the virtue 
 of this pafs, however we have been deceived by the perfon who 
 gave it. He had the Xerif s order to forward us to Suez ; and 
 after he has fo materially benefited by our purfes, we give him 
 credit for an inclination to ferve us, by the means of his mafter's 
 flgnet, which we know to be refpe6ted in all Mahometan re- 
 gions. 
 
 ' Our minds were fomewhat relieved by thefe reflexions. We 
 partook of the turtle at dinner with apparent cheerfulnefs j and 
 even went fo far, as to adopt their own meafures, and exprefs to 
 the Arabs our indifference, in regard to the port we were going 
 to. In this difpoiition we made the mofque of Cofure, without 
 any other emotions, than what difappointment naturally excites 
 in the human breail. The toils and dangers which we had un- 
 dergone, envenomed the flings of that difappointment ; and af- 
 ter a month's endeavors, we found ourfelves nearly in the fame 
 fituation, as when we fet out from Yambo : not, indeed, fo far 
 removed from Suez, but infinitely in more uncertainty and 
 diftrefs. 
 
 At 7 in the evening we anchored in the harbor of Cofire; 
 and find by the diftance which we have run, that the ifland we 
 remained at laft night, was that of Shadwan, well known to the 
 
 Englifli.
 
 [ 117 ] 
 
 Englifh vefTels which trade from India to Suez. As fooh as tt 
 was dark, the nokidah went afliore, to advife the commandant 
 of our arrival -, and to intereft him, as he affured us, in our be- 
 half. To confefs the truth, we had not the profpe6l of pafling 
 the jmoft agreeable night. Our fortune was wrapped up lii 
 doubt, dark as the Ihades which enveloped the creation -, and we 
 anxioufly looked for the returning light, to difpel the obfcurity 
 of the fcene ! 
 
 Thus, Madam, have I at length conduced you to Conre, ni- 
 ftead of the promifed port of Suez. In purfuing the courfc of 
 this narrative, you have been fubje6led, like the principal charac- 
 ters, to the inconftancy of fortune; v/ho, in imitation of the 
 light ones of the fex, finds a pleafure in deceiving thofe the moft 
 who afpire to the favor of her fmiles. I have frequently had 
 occafion to diffent againft the well-known proverb of the Rq-, 
 mans, " Fortune favors the brave," though I am far from pr^ 
 tending, that the undertakers of this voyage, are an inftance of 
 its fallacy. The fatigues that we have endured in a month's 
 cruize in an open boat, during the hotteft feafon of the Eailern 
 year, and the dangers that we have ran in exploring a wild and 
 piratical coaft, were well encountered for the end we had in view. 
 True fortitude is exalted by oppofition, and, like the fabled An- 
 taeus, rifes with freih vigor from fucceffive overthrows. The 
 prefent moments, when our reception at this place, nay, our 
 very fafety, is precarious, are critical indeed, and teem with events, 
 that may awaken curiofity, and excite the fufceptible breaft to 
 regret the unfeafonable interruption of this narrative. .^^__ 
 
 If the foregoing fheets have the* good fortune to meet with 
 
 your
 
 your approbation — if they are adjudged to contain the unftudied 
 touches of nature, and intereft the public in the fate of three 
 unlucky travellers — I fliall be tempted to renew the thread of our 
 adventures, and recount the moft remarkable occurrences of our 
 journey from Cofue to Alexandria. The novelty of the track 
 will engage the reader, where bufmefs is deficient ; nor can he 
 wholly be at a lofs for amufcment, in a region fo untiodden, on 
 a river fo celebrated as the Nile ! 
 
 It is a received maxim, that there is no incident in a man's 
 life, but from which he may derive fome inftru6lion. If I have 
 reaped any advantage from the late fcenes I have been engaged 
 in, it is a ftock of philofophy, which has coft me no little pains 
 in the acquifition j and will, I truft, prove fufRcient to fupport 
 me in any trial, to which the lot of humanity may hereafter fub- 
 jefl me. But to my own fufFerings may my indifference be con- 
 fined ! When I feparate my concerns from thofe of my fellow- 
 creatures ; when I become deaf to the call of diftrefs -, or behold, 
 unmoved, the tear of contrition, may I be rejefted by the more 
 enlightened clafs of fociety, and chiefly by her, who is one of 
 its firft and brighteft ornaments [ 
 
 I have the honour to be, 
 
 M A D A M, 
 
 Youi''s, &c. 
 
 Cofire, in Upper Egypt, 
 9th July 1777. 
 
 A SERIES
 
 I 119 ] 
 
 SERIES OF ADVENTURES, &c. 
 
 IN THE YEAR M.DCC.LXXVII. 
 IN LETTERS TO A LADY. 
 
 LETTER II. 
 
 MADAM, 
 
 TO prove as good as one's word is the province of every 
 honed man, but more particularly will it be expelled 
 where inclination and duty go hand-in-hand. Whatever may be 
 the fate of my former letter, the fpecious name of honor will 
 infure the performance of my promife, and lead me into error 
 under a miftaken notion of things. The man of honor fubmits 
 his better judgment to the opinion of the multitude, and facri- 
 fices his friend's life or his own, to extend his reputation. In 
 like manner, the author is betrayed by the fecret impulfes of 
 vanity, and is fo tenacious of the empty applaufes of the croud, 
 as to be ftill rifking what little fame he may have acquired, in 
 the purfuit of more. But you. Madam, have to anfwer for this 
 tranfgreffion, and, though innocent of the intention, are un- 
 happily the caufe of a poor author adding to the number of 
 his fms. There is doubtlefs matter enough in the pages which 
 he has the honor to fubmit to your perufal ; but in refpe6l to the 
 manner, he only wifhes that he was poirefied of your talent to 
 cxcufe it to the world. 
 
 There
 
 [ 120 ] 
 
 _There is a regi'et mingled with the pleafure I feel in retracing 
 my progrefs through a land, which has been renowned from the 
 carlieft times, and is replete with the nobleil: ruins of antiquity. 
 Which gave birth to Cleopatra, and contains the afhes of Alex- 
 ander ! From whence mufic boafts its divine origin, and on 
 wliofe mythology Homer formed the grounds of his immortal 
 work ! The parent of fcience ! the nurfe of heroes ! and the mo- 
 nument, alas 1 of decayed greatnefs ! Too fevere, O Egypt ! 
 has been thy lot ; too fevere an example doft thou afford of the 
 inftability of human glory. It is in thy fchool that the proud 
 ■^ fhould learn humility, the atheift religion ; more inftrudlion will 
 he gain in the review of thy fortune, than from the dreams of 
 philofophers or the leffons of divines. Here will he fee the in- 
 vincible Sefollris vanquiflaed in his pofterity ; the public works 
 through which he meant to hand down his name to lateft ages, 
 yielded to the conqueror. Time ; and his once potent empire di- 
 vided by the fword of infidels ! — The fublime imagery of Shake- 
 fpear rulhes to my mind on the contemplation of this awful fcene, 
 
 " The cloud-capt towers, the gorgeous palaces, 
 " The folemn temples, the great globe itfelf, 
 ** Yea, all which it inherits, Iliall diffolve," 
 &c. &c. 
 
 The faireft produ<5lions of art here bear the marks of bar- 
 barous rage, and ignorance ufurps the fields, where learning 
 reared her column to the fkies. The far-famed Nile now rolls 
 his ftream through lonely plains, and fullen laves the fhores, 
 where freedom fmiled ; which Love and which the Mufe were 
 wont to grace ! 
 
 For the fake of a more familiar ftile, I have preferved the 
 form of a diary in the following nairative. I detell formality, 
 and would facrifice a well-turned period for the appearance of 
 
 eafe.
 
 ( ^121 ] 
 
 eafe. The reader who looks for connecled accounts, Ciceronian 
 epithets, and pohfhed expreflions, in thefe rambling pages, will 
 be greatly miftaken in the intention of the author; whofe higheft 
 aim is to amufe the curious, and to touch the humane. Loofe 
 hints, concife defcriptions, and unfludied details, fum up the 
 chief parts of a work, which is merely publiflied to promote 
 the interefts of humanity, and to afford a caution to the unwary 
 traveller. There is one thing which he has mofl reafon to fear 
 will be objeded to it, and that is, the want of the marvellous 
 and furprizing, in a region fo involved among the fables of an- 
 tiquity. 
 
 THURSDAY, loth July. 
 
 Cofue is fituated in 26° 20 'north latitude, and is the fouthern- 
 molt port on the coaft of Egypt. It has been a place of great 
 note, and is ftill confiderable for the exportation of grain to 
 Arabia, which is brought in the caravan from the Nile. There 
 is a prodigious high range of mountains behind it, which are 
 an exacl counterpart to thofe on the Arabian fide; through thefe 
 mountains is the road to the Nile. The harbor is defended to 
 the northvi'ard by a reef of rocks, which flretch about a mile into 
 the fea ; and to the fouthward and weflward, the land forms it 
 into the fliape of a crefcent. Here is water for fhips of burden ; 
 but without a pilot, they could not venture into the bafon. The 
 fort of Cofire Hands upon a rifing ground ; and is a fquare 
 building of about four hundred yards in circumference. It was 
 formerly ftrong enough, to have withftood a regular attack ; the 
 walls being of ftone, and raifed to a confiderable height. But 
 at prcfent, it is in a defencelefs ftate ; the breaches which time 
 has made in it, being repaired with mud-work, and not more 
 than three difmantled pieces of cannon left to protefl it. The 
 
 R town
 
 [ i2a ] 
 
 towrt itfelf is in a more miferable condition. Of all the nu- 
 merous houfes which once reared their heads here, nothing but 
 their walls are {landing ; and of the mofques, which good Muf- 
 fulmen eftecm beyond all other edifices, but the remains of two 
 now can be difcerned, and one of thefe bowed almoft to the 
 ground. The reader is here prefented with a view of a place, fo 
 new to obfervation. It is a matter of conjedlure whether, in 
 fifty years hence, there will be any traces of habitations on a 
 fpot, which at this moment exhibits only the outhnes of them. 
 But if the town difplays fo imfavorable an appearance, it falls 
 infinitely fhort of the dreary afpeft of the country around it. 
 So far from a tree being in fight, the eye cannot catch a verdant 
 fpot, whether it fui^veys the mountains within, or the plain that 
 ftretches along the fea-fliore. And this defart is the barrier to 
 the celebrated and fertile land of Upper Egypt ! 
 
 At 7 o'clock the principal Turk and two Arabs came on board 
 the boat, to invite us afliore, and to acquaint us that there was 
 a houfe provided for our reception. We had pafied but an un- 
 comfortable night, and were overjoyed to be relieved from our 
 fufpence, by fo polite an invitation. We readily accepted of it, 
 and ourfelves and our baggage were conveyed to the houfe ap- 
 pointed for us ; which, though the beft in the town, was little 
 better than an Englifli barn. Here we were received by an Arab 
 of dift:in6lion, whom we found to be the fon of the Arabian 
 fliaik or prince of the diftridl, who was abfent on an excurfion 
 to the Nile. Though the garrifon of the fort of Cofire is un- 
 der the command of a Turkifh officer, appointed by the bey of 
 Cairo, the government of the city and the commerce of the port, 
 are entirely in the hands of the Arabs ; to the chief of whom 
 we are recommended by the vizier of Yambo. This is a piece 
 of intelligence which we have learnt from the nokidah of our 
 boat, and indeed, the vizier could do no lefs, to atone for his 
 9 treachery
 
 [ 123 ] 
 
 treachery towards us. The young man very politely fupplled his 
 father's place, and informed us, it was his intention to accom- 
 pany us to the Nile, as foon as the caravan, which was daily 
 expelled, fhould arrive from thence. This he confidered as the 
 leaft dangerous and expenfive mode of travelling ; as a few ca- 
 mels would require a guard, and run more rifk of an attack 
 from the banditti which infeft the mountains of Upper Egypt. 
 With thefe plaufible reafons we are obliged to acqui^fce, though 
 the delays we undergo are not the fmalleft mortifications we 
 meet with. Our room was crouded the whole day with vifirors, 
 whofe curiofity led them to view us. Europeans they might 
 have feen here in difguife, but the habit which we wore was 
 evidently new and furprizing to them. Among thefe people there 
 were two Chriftians, who appeared much rejoiced to fee us, and 
 prefented us with a difli of ruflcs, which were very light and pa- 
 latable. They are clothed in the Arabian drefs, which we like- 
 wife intend to affume when we fet out on our journey, not only 
 to avoid the inquifitive and illiberal temper of the natives, but for 
 the fake of coolnefs. The loofe and light veftments of the ori- 
 ental nations are admirably adapted to the nature of their cli- 
 mate; and the numerous folds of the muflin turban, are the 
 beft invented defence againft the burning rays of a vertical fun. 
 
 FRIDAY, nth July. 
 
 We had company, as yefterday, to pay us their compliments 
 this morning, for which we are as much indebted to the indolence 
 of temper, as to the politenefs of the Arabs. If we except their 
 hours of devotion, they have no other way of pafllng their time 
 than in vifits of ceremony. Books are entirely negleited by them, 
 except thofe of a religious turn ; and which are more calculated to 
 infufe the gloom of fuperftition into the mind of a Muffulman, 
 
 R 2 ' than
 
 [ 124 ] 
 
 "than to afFoid amufement. Poetry itfelf, which feems to have 
 Iprung from the pafloral regions of Arabia, is no longer courted 
 nor acknowledged by this degenerate race ; and the names of their 
 poets are more honored and known in Europe than in Afia. 
 Strange as this afTertion may appear, there is nothing more cer- 
 tain than the truth of it ; and it cannot be diiputed, that the pro- 
 pagation of a novel and bigotted faith, has been always attended 
 with the fame melancholy effefts in every part of the globe. The 
 blindnefs of zeal dcftroys every thing that is not intimately con- 
 
 , necled with the objedl of its purfuit ; and the high-priells of a 
 new-fangled do6lrine, are the Goths and Vandals of the age, 
 
 _..who overturn the altars dedicated to the arts and fciences. 
 
 Another Chriftian accompanied thofe who paid us a vifit yef- 
 terday, and we learn, to our great fatisfaftion, that they are 
 waitins; for the caravan which is to convey us to the Nile. There 
 is an inexpreflible pleafure in meeting with thofe of our own re- 
 ligion in a foreign land, and efpecially where the difference of opi- 
 nion is fufficient to occafion the worfl of treatment to a traveller. 
 But it is univerfally acknowledged, that Chriftians have greater 
 privileges, and experience better lafage in Egypt, than in any 
 other part of Turkey. Governed by her own beys, and but no- 
 minally dependant on the Porte, fhe deviates wholly from the falfe 
 ^1 ,fyftem which fubfifts in the Ottoman politics ; and fludies her 
 own intereft in the favor flie fliews to Chriftianity. Too fupine 
 for ftudy, and too proud for labor, the Mahometan refigns the 
 pen and plough to the induftrious Chriftian. But for this defpifed 
 
 /.tribe, the wheels of government would ftand ftill, and the Nile 
 
 :would yearly fatten his banks in vain. The mechanics, as well as 
 hufbandmen, are of this perfuafion ; and the fecretaries, as well 
 as moft of the confidential officers of the great and petty princ«s of 
 Egypt, profefs the Chriftian tenets. 
 
 1 The 
 
 V
 
 [ ^25 ] 
 
 5v The Turkifh commandant has juft fent to acquaint us, by our 
 nokidah, that it Is cuftomary to fearch the baggage of travellers, 
 that the duties of the port maybe levied on any merchandize they 
 poffefs. Though we afllired them that we were fitted out, not as 
 merchants, but as travellers, we could have no objeclion to a prac- 
 tice foufualin all places. In the evening, therefore, we were vl- 
 fited by fome of the principal people, to whom we opened our 
 trunks ; and can fay, that the fcrutlny was lefs rigid, and con- 
 dud:ed with more decency, than in many of the cuilom-houfes pf 
 Europe. While thefe gentry were drinking coffee with us, at fun- 
 fet intelligence was brought us of the caravan's approach, which 
 afforded us no inconfiderable pleafure. The young flialk was 
 informed of his father's arrival, and haflened to receive him. We 
 foon learnt that only a part of the caravan was come widi the 
 Arabian fliaik ; who fent us his compliments, and excufes for not 
 waiting on us, being fatigued with the journey. Hepromifed to 
 ;yifit us early in the morning, to provide us with camels, and to 
 adjuft the ceconomy of our expedition by the return of the cara- 
 .■,van, which would certainly be herein a few days. If we encoun- 
 ter no further delays, we Ihall not repine at being betrayed into 
 this route, which is new, and may afford us matter of curious fpe- 
 culation. As the wind alfo continues to blow from the N. W. 
 quarter, we can the more eafily give credit to our nokidah, who 
 affures us, that our boat would not hax'e gotten to Suez this month 
 to come, and that the feafon alone prevented our being carried to 
 Suez agreeably to our defire. As this fellow feems very earned 
 to ferve us, and has promifed to remain here until we depart for 
 the Nile, we the more readily forget the trick he played us, which 
 the apprehenfions of the vizier's refentment might induce him to 
 commit. That titled villain has principally benefited by our mil- 
 fortunes ; and, were this lafl: evil neccffary to fill up the meafure 
 of them, inflead of paying the enormous fum of 650 dollars for 
 
 oar
 
 [ 126 ] 
 
 <:>nr paflage to Cofire, we might have been tranfported here at a 
 trifling expence, on any of the numerous boats that trade between 
 Yambo and this place. 
 
 SATURDAY, 12th July. 
 
 We were furprized this morning with an early vifit from the 
 Arabian fliaik, attended by the chief people of the town. He 
 is an elderly man, of a good countenance and a polite addrefs, 
 and in every refpe6l anfwers to the idea which an European 
 would form of one of thefe leaders. He confirmed the tenders 
 of fervice, and promifes of protection, made us by his fon ; and 
 feemed willing to difpatch us immediately to the Nile with the 
 few camels he had here, provided we were content to leave our 
 baggage behind, to be fent after us by the great caravan. 
 Though our living on the Nile until our baggage came up, would 
 be more agreeable in refpe(5l to the fituation, and the cheapnefs of 
 provifion, when compared with this place, we determined to wait 
 for the caravan, which we now found was not expelled thefe 
 eight days. And this not only on account of fecurity, but as it 
 appeared to be the v*. ifh of the fliaik, vi^ho declared his intention 
 of accompanying us himfelf, or putting us under the protedtion 
 of his fon during the journey. When this point was fettled, we 
 requefted the fliaik to furnifli us with a camel to carry a letter 
 to the Nile, from thence to be forwarded to the India Company's 
 agent at Cairo, that he might be advifed of oUr arrival in thefe 
 parts. To this the fliaik chearfully confented, and we addrefl"ed 
 the following letter to Mr. Baldwin, and delivered it to the 
 Arab. 
 
 To
 
 C 127 ] 
 
 To G E O R G E B A L D W I N, Efq. 
 
 "SIR, 
 
 <' We take the liberty to acquaint you of our arrival at this 
 place on the i oth inftant. A concurrence of accidents has obli- , 
 ged us to undertake this uncommon route, although it was our 
 intention to have proceeded to Cairo by the way of Suez. As we 
 are charged with difpatches of the utmoft confequence from the 
 prefident of Madras to the Court of Dire6lors, we flatter our- 
 felves, that this circumftance will be a further inducement to 
 your humanity, to intereft yourfelf with the bey of Cairo in our 
 behalf, that he may immediately iffue paffes to Ghinnah and 
 Jirje, for our better fecurity in going down the Nile. We have a 
 prote6lion from the vizier of Yambo to the Arab flraik of this 
 diftrift, who has treated us with great civility, and promifes to 
 fend us to the Nile, under charge of his fon, by the return of 
 the caravan, which is expelled here in a few days. It is with 
 his affiftance that we are enabled to forward you this intelli- 
 gence of our fituation. When we have the pleafure, Sir, of feeing 
 you at Cairo, we fhall do ourfelves the honor to deliver the letters 
 we are charged with to your addrefs, which we confider of too 
 much importance to you to be trufted to this conveyance. 
 
 " In the hopes of meeting with you in a fliort time, and of 
 cxprelling our fenfe of the fervices which your influence in tlm 
 country may afford us, we remain, 
 
 S I R, 
 
 Your very obedient, &;c." 
 
 " Cofire, on the coaft of Upper Egypt, 
 I2th July, 1777." 
 
 When the fliaik and his courtiers had taken their leave, we had 
 a continual levee the whole morning, and the durbar of an eafl:ern 
 
 prince
 
 [ 128 3 
 
 prince could not be more crouded than our apartments. We treat- 
 ed our vifitOrs with coffee only, as it is the cuftom of the country 
 for every one to carry his principal entertainment about with 
 him, which is the pipe. It fupplies the place of meat and drink, 
 and even thought itfelf ; though they tell you here, that the pipe 
 is the befl; friend imaginable to meditation.' Be this as it may, 
 the Arabs do not feem to benefit by it in this refpeft ; though never 
 did I fee a paflion carried to fuch excefs as this. 
 
 At noon the young fliaik accompanied us in a walk about the 
 town, and as we palled the fort, we were faluted with one gun : a 
 compliment for which we made a fmall donation to the gunner. 
 In this excurfion we gathered nothing, but a nearer view of the 
 poverty of the people, and the dreaiy face of the country. At our 
 return home we had another vifit from the fhaik, to acquaint us, 
 that the carriage of a letter to Cairo wovild be very heavy, and that 
 we might as well omit fending it. When he named 60 dollars 
 for the trouble, we were not a little flartled at the fum, and fhould 
 have been well inclined to drop the matter, had we not held it of 
 great moment to our concerns. We declined, however, giving 
 fuch an extravagant price, for what we told the fhaik was of little 
 confequence in itfelf. He was called away by fome bufmefs in the 
 midfc of this conference, and our nokidah offered to follow him, 
 and to bring him to reafon in his demand. The fellow accord- 
 ingly went on this embafly to the fliaik, who confented at length 
 to take 20 dollars for die difpatch of the letter. The money was 
 immediately advanced, and the camel was that night fent off to 
 the Nile, if any reliance could be placed on the word of an Arab. 
 The attempt to impofe on us in a charge of this kind, was only 
 confidered by us as an eflay 01 the ftrength of our purfes ; and 
 we are in hopes, from our having lowered them fo confiderably in 
 thejr prices, that we fliall be the lefs liable to impofition, iu our 
 future dealings with the natives of Egypt. 
 
 Our
 
 [ 129 ] 
 
 Our evening, as ufual, was pafTed in receiving company, among 
 whom we faw feveral people who were to be our fellow-travel- 
 lers. There was a merchant, in particular, who was very intel- 
 ligent, and offered to accommodate us with his houfe, on our 
 arrival at Ghinnah, a large city on the Nile, to which the cara- 
 van is to carry us. He tells us, to our great fatisfadion, that 
 we fhall find no difficulty in procuring boats for our pafTage 
 down the Nile j and that at the eafy expence of 25 dollars. So 
 that our money holds out to Cairo, we muft be content to pay 
 for every inch of the road, through this ftrange and remote 
 country. We have been obliged to make feveral little prefents 
 to the great people already ; but thefe have been confined to 
 pieces of Indian handkerchiefs, and bottles of European liquors. 
 Thefe the Turkifli commandant carried away under his garment,, 
 with all the gravity peculiar to his nation ; and, to heighten the 
 joke, he was pleafed to let the fpirits pafs under the denomina- 
 tion of phyfic. 
 
 The weather here is remarkably pleafant for this time of the 
 year. This muft be owing to the prevalence of the northerly 
 winds, that blow acrofs the Red Sea to this coaft. Neither are 
 the dews fo heavy and troublefome, as we found them on the. 
 fliores of Arabia. A lucky circumftance to travellers, who have 
 been fo long accuftomed to the magnificent and fpacious canopy 
 of the (ky, that they cannot fleep within doors, or be confined 
 beneath the low and contrafted roof of a chamber. We have a 
 good yard belonging to the houfe, where we pafs the nights. 
 
 SUNDAY, 13th July. 
 
 Our charges are confiderably augmented by the price of water, 
 which is become fo fcarce, that we are at times at a lofs for a 
 draught of it. The people here drink of a bad fort, which they 
 
 S bring
 
 [ 13° 1 
 bring from a fpring at above a league's diftance, it not being in 
 their power to pay a quarter of a dollar per fkin, for fo con- 
 fiderable a neceffary of life. 
 
 The northerly wind continues to blow fo flrongly, that we 
 have great reafon to think we fhould have been much longer 
 beating our paffage to Suez, than we Ihall be in getting to Cairo 
 by the route we have ftumbled upon. The charafter of our 
 nokidah begins to be again doubtful. After all his promifes to 
 flay by us until our departure, and to fee us provided with good 
 camels, he came to us this evening with the fhaik, and, after a 
 parade of his attachment towards us, pretended to regret the 
 neceflity which called him away. He even perfuaded the old 
 man to declaim in his behalf; to acquaint us that the letter 
 which the vizier of Yambo had fent by the nokidah, was of the 
 utmofl: moment to our interefl ; that we were thereby entitled 
 to the fhaik's prote6tion, as far as his life would afford it j and 
 that he hoped we would remember him, now he was about to 
 leave us. Notwithftanding our indignation was rouzed at the 
 prevarication of this fellow, we did not hold him worth our at- 
 tention, nor did we chufe to let the fhaik into the reafon of our 
 defiring his flay. It was our bufmefs to appear to place an un- 
 limited confidence in the man, whom chance had made the 
 mafler of our fates. And indeed he a6led very impartially on 
 the occafion, and concluded his harangue, with intreating us to 
 confult our inclinations only, when we fixed on a recompence 
 for the nokidah's fervices. We thanked him for his goodnefs, 
 and carelefsly added, that we would think on this fubjedt in the 
 morning. There is no doubt but the nokidah's waiting our 
 motions, might be prejudicial to his affairs which fummon him 
 to Yambo ; but it was our declared intention to have m^de him 
 a very handfome confideration on this account. To have fent 
 advices to our friends in India of our fafety, and of our depar- 
 ture
 
 I 131 ] 
 
 ture for the Nile, was a matter which we had much at heart. 
 This very fellow had promifed to accomplifh it. He has un- 
 doubtedly forfeited all further pretenfions to our favor, fo that 
 the prefent which we give him will be very trifling. 
 
 MONDAY, 14th July. 
 
 The greateft part of the morning was fpent in a converfation 
 with the nokidah, and in writing a letter to the vizier, in tefti- 
 mony of this fellow's good treatment of us. His condu£ting 
 us to this place appears to have been more the vizier's crime 
 than his ; and, in fpite of his recent abufe of our confidence, our 
 diltrelTes had not deprived us of the principle of forgivenefs, fo 
 far as to permit us to deny him a requeft of this nature. The 
 fafety of his family, who were in the vizier's power, depended, 
 as he aflured us, upon our word. The addrefs was extraordi- 
 nary enough, to a man who had been the primary caufe of our 
 misfortunes ; and it may be expefted that we did not raifs the 
 opportunity to give a vent to our indignation. But, irritated 
 as we were againft the minifter, we difdained even to expoflu- 
 late with him on his unfair proceedings. We were determined 
 not to afford him matter of triumph, and concealed the effefls 
 which his detefted policy had been attended with. The letter was. 
 exprefled in general terms ; and we bore witnefs to the conduct 
 of the nokidah, as far as regarded his attention and refpeft to- 
 wards us. With this he feemed better fatisfied than with the 
 prefent we made him. We affigned but ten dollars for himfelf 
 and the pilot, of whom I have made fuch frequent mention in 
 the journal of the boat. This was a fufficient mortification to 
 people, whofe expeftations had been raifed by the rewards we 
 promifed them on our fafe arrival at Suez, and whofe ideas of 
 our wealth were fo extravagant. The feveral trifles we had left 
 
 S 2 in
 
 [ 132 ] 
 
 in the boat amounted to no inconfideiable fum ; but the value of 
 thefe were already forgotten. We were more liberal to the boat's 
 crew, who came at the fame time to take leave of us ; as they 
 had been the innocent inftruments in the execution of the plot, 
 which was devlfed againfl: us in the town of Yambo. 
 
 We perceive a jcaloufy fubfifts between the Turk and Arab 
 on our account, wliich we have no reafon to be concerned at. As 
 the prefence of the former will prove an Infallible check on the 
 motions of the fliaik, we fliall rather be defirous of fomenting 
 the difference, by paying an equal attention to thefe chiefs, than, 
 by attaching ourfelves to one, run the chance of incurring the 
 refentment of the other. The government of the diftri6t is un- 
 doubtedly in the hands of the fliaik, who holds it from the man- 
 date of the bey of Cairo ; and to his influence we muft commit 
 ourfelves in our journey to the Nile. But the oftenfible dignity 
 lies with the Turkilh officer, who commands the fort of Cofire 
 in the name of the bey, and is placed here as a fpy on the con- 
 duct of the fliaik. They never meet at our houfe but by acci- 
 dent; and then nothing but common civility pafles between 
 them. The Arab, in particular, is uneafy at the frequent vifits 
 of the other, and it is no longer ago than this morning, that he 
 cautioned us to truft to him alone for the fupply of our wants. 
 While the Turk, on the other hand, let us this afternoon into 
 the knowledge of every thing that* we wanted to be informed 
 of. The cuftomary price of camels to the Nile will be but trifling, 
 and we hope, by his means, to efcape the impofitions which we 
 fliould otherwife incur from the poverty of the Arabs, who, in 
 many refpe(fts, are of no unamiable chara6ter. We have found 
 them to be decent in their manners, and temperate in their diet ; 
 addidled to no warmth or levity of temper, refpe6lfal in the 
 laft degree to their parents, charitable in their difpofitions, and 
 
 humane
 
 [ 133 ] 
 
 humane to their dependents : flriftly attentive to all the forms of 
 their religion, and wholly unacquainted with the unnatural vices 
 which originated in the Eaft, and have long difgraced the Chrif- 
 tian empire. But this affemblage of good qualities is thoroughly 
 tainted by the lull of lucre, which no bounds are forcible enough 
 to reftrain. Their command of mind is applied to facilitate the 
 bafeft purpofes of gain, and their pretended fanclity often ferves 
 to cover fome fcheme of fraud. It muft be owned, the neceffities 
 of people, who almofl live in a (late of nature, muft bear hard 
 on the innate principles of goodnefs which they may pofTefs ; 
 and when the prejudices of their religion, which inculcate the 
 practice of deceit towards Chriftians, are thrown into the ba- 
 lance, it will not be fo much wondered at, that the fcale of in- 
 juftice prevailed againft us : that we were fo maltreated in Ara- 
 bia, or that we fhall be obliged to win our way through the de- 
 farts of Thebais to the Nile, by dint of gold. 
 
 The young fliaik, after his father had left us, took a liking 
 to a very good fpying-glafs which we had brought with us. As 
 he is likely to be our fellow-traveller, we begged his acceptance 
 of it. At the fame time our nokidah came to take his leave ; 
 and we parted on good terms, notwlthftanding what had paflcd 
 between us. 
 
 TUESDAY, 15th July. 
 
 This morning a jar of water was brought to us from the fhaik, 
 which had juft arrived from the mountains. He had heard us 
 complain yefterday of the want of fweet water, and very politely 
 fent this jar to our houfc, which had come for his own drinking. 
 We were content to pay three dollars for the carriage, as we fet 
 an higher value upon water, in our prefent circumftances, than 
 if it were wine. We had an early vifit from the old man, to 
 
 whom
 
 [ 134 ] 
 
 whom we prefented a piece of Indian chintz for his women. 
 Had we been apprized of our going this road, we might have 
 brought numbeilefs trifles from our veffel, which would have 
 appeared of fome eflimation in the eyes of a people, to whom all 
 foreign articles have the charms of novelty. This man however 
 has feen more of the world than the gen'erality of his country- 
 men. He has been twice at Conilantinople ; and at Alexan Iria, 
 he tells us, he went on board an Englifh man of war of fixty 
 guns, from which he feems to have derived an high idea of the 
 power and dignity of the Britifli nation. He has been comfort- 
 ing us with the hopes of the caravan's not exceeding the time 
 appointed for its appearance ; which now approaches, to our 
 great fatisfadlion. There is nothing to be feen here but fea, 
 mountain, and fky ; and we long to be coafting the banks of the 
 Nile, and to become eye-witneffes of the fci tility and beauty of 
 a country, fo celebrated by hiftorians, and confirmed in our ad- 
 miration by the teftimony of the people here, who are never 
 tired of repeating its praifes. We learn that our boat, and four 
 others, failed this morning for fambo; and that three larger 
 ones remain here to receive their lading from the caravan. The 
 paflage to Yambo can be made with eafe in four or five days. 
 What a contraft to the long and tedious voyage that we ex- 
 perienced to this place ! 
 
 Nothing is a greater proof of the warlike difpofitions of the 
 Arabs, than the pleafure they take in the infpedlion of arms of 
 all kinds. Our fwords, guns, and piftols, have undergone a 
 thoufand examinations ; and been honored with a profufion of 
 applaufes, not, we fufpe6l, without hopes, on their fide, of pro- 
 fiting by our politenefs. Were a fword or fpear to be put into 
 the hand of an Arab, whatever difguife he might be in, his bent 
 of mind would as quickly betray itfelf, as did Achilles', when he 
 handled the arms which UlylTes placed before him. He is al- 
 9 ways
 
 [ ^3S ] 
 ways armed as if going to battle ; and we never fee any one, 
 whofe profefTion allows of it, unprovided with a pair of loaded 
 piftols in his girdle, a fabre and a dagger by his fide, and a fpear 
 of about fix feet in length in his right hand. In his left he al- 
 ways carries a pipe, which, moderately fpeaking, is not five mi- 
 nutes together from his lips in the courfe of the day. Though 
 this general praflice of carrying fire-arms on peaceable occa- 
 fions, is totally repugnant to the ideas of civilized minds, there 
 is nothing but what may be reconciled to us by the force of 
 habit ; and we now view this threatening apparatus of war with- 
 out the fmalleft emotion. In the evening the fhaik brought us 
 a plate of unripened limes, which, indifferent as they were, we 
 underfland have come from the neighborhood of the Nile, 
 
 WEDNESDAY, i6th July. 
 
 We are very fortunate in refpeft to the owner of the houfe we 
 live in. He is an old Arab, of a civil demeanor and a quiet 
 temper ; and if ever a mortal pafTed away an inoffenfive life, it is 
 this hoft of ours. His worldly cares extend not beyond the little 
 ceconomy of an humble roof, and the fale of a few articles, with 
 which he makes fhift to provide for the calls of nature. The 
 only luxury he tafles of, is his pipe of tobacco and his cup of 
 coffee ; and his fole enjoyment, is the tendance of a milch goat, 
 that follows him about with the docility of a dog. The milk of 
 this animal he kindly referves for our ufe; and, indeed, it is 
 ferviceable to us, in a miferable place, where milk is not to be 
 procured. In the courfe of fuch a fimple life, it is not hkely 
 that he fhould imbibe the errors which higher ftations are apt to 
 betray their poflelTors into i anl there is no doubt but the prayers 
 of this poor Arab are acceptable to the Almighty difpofer of all 
 things. Content carries along with it the afpeft of every virtue ; 
 
 and
 
 [ 136 ] 
 
 and not to repine at the deftiny which Heaven has allotted us, 
 is certainly of more folid importance to mankind, than the at- 
 tainment of a thouHind dazzling talents, which, by fitting us to 
 the admiration of this world, too often render us indifferent to 
 the acquifition of a more glorious recompence. 
 
 The fliaik and the commandant are become very regular in 
 their vifits to us. By this particular attention we conceive hopes 
 of the caravan's approach, as we do not think they would thus 
 court us through mere form. The Turk is by much the more 
 modeft of the two, which muft be attributed to a more general 
 knowledge of the world. He has afked for nothing but the li- 
 quor before mentioned ; and has received nothing from us, but 
 a piece of muflin handkerchiefs, which we prefented him with 
 lail night. The Arab does not maintain this decency in his con- 
 du6l, though he is by no means open in his demands. He is 
 continually afking us, through the channel of our interpreter, 
 of the things we poifefs ; and this morning defired to look at a 
 curious pair of pillols of mine, which I had carefully concealed 
 from his knowledge. Though I could not learn in what man- 
 ner he had difcovered them, I was obliged to promife them to 
 him on our arrival at the Nile ; when we fondly flattered ourfelves 
 to be delivered from the neceflity of (landing upon our guard. 
 Thefe piftols have a flop upon the cocks, which muft render 
 them fafer to an Arab, who is accuftomed, on a march, to fleep 
 with them in his girdle. 
 
 The weather was hotter to-day than we have before expe- 
 rienced it, which we attribute to an alteration in the wind, that 
 has blown from the land, though very faintly. Were it not for 
 the conftant gales which prevail in thefe feas, the coafts would 
 be intolerably hot, as the foil is nothing but rock and fand. 
 
 THURSDAY,.
 
 L 137 3 
 
 THURSDAY, 17th July. 
 
 The fliaik brought us this morning a bottle of cinnamon-water 
 under his cloak. We were prevailed on to tafle it, out of com- 
 pliment to him, who fliewed us the example, but we heartily re- 
 pented of it. Whether owing to the ftill, or whatever caufe it 
 might be, there was a copperas tafte in the liquor, that did not 
 agree with our ftomachs. This will be a caution liow we make 
 free with foreign liquors, among a people, whofe ignorance may 
 be impofed on by the venders of thefe articles. 
 
 We have difcovered an amiable trait in the character of the 
 old man, which has confiderably heightened our opinion of him. 
 He has a paternal regard for his fubjefts, and feems to fliare in 
 any innocent recreation they can take. It was no longer ago 
 than laft night, that a flave-boy, belonging to our company, was 
 playing on the fiddle for the entertainment of the fhaik. The 
 novelty of the found brought a crowd about the gate of the 
 yard, where we were fitting on carpets to enjoy the cool of the 
 evening. The old man perceived them to be pleafed with the 
 mufic, and alked our per million to let them come in. This was 
 no fooner granted, than the yard was filled with people of all 
 ranks, v/ho exprcfled great fatisfaftion and furprize at the fkill 
 of a boy, who might be put on a footing with the blind fiddlers 
 that fet a country wake in motion. The ideas of the better fort 
 of a fimple people, cannot be expedled to be more refined than 
 thofe of the lower clafs of a poliflied nation. Nature is the fame 
 in every climate, and betrays its want of cultivation, by an un- 
 diftinguifliing tafte in the feveral degrees of perfedlion to which 
 the arts and fciences may be carried. The notes of a violin or 
 flute may touch a rude ear with fenfations of delight, although 
 not regulated by the paufes of time ; or how can we pretend to 
 
 T receive
 
 [ U8 ] 
 
 receive pleafure from the wild notes of the wood-lark or night- 
 ingale ? The truth is, we look not for any excellence in the 
 bird, but what nat\ire has afforded. The fweetnefs of his pipe 
 makes ample amends for the irregularity of the meafure ; and we 
 drink the melody, without feeling the want of correftnefs. 
 
 We had a vifit as ufual from the Turk, who watches his time, 
 and comes always after the departure of the fliaik. He informs 
 us, that he has juft had a meffenger, who brings advice of the 
 immediate departure of the caravan from the Nile. If this ac- 
 count be true, it muft arrive within two days at fur theft. The 
 Turk fliewed us a chop or fignet, that he received from Ibra- 
 him Beg, the bey of Cairo, nominating him to the command of 
 the fort of Cofne. He is a very obliging and good-humored 
 plan ; and it will be our inclination, as well as intereft, to culti- 
 vate his friendfhip. 
 
 It is not often that we venture out of the doors of our 
 gateway, except by moon-light, when we ftray down to the fea- 
 fide, which is the only profpect from this place that can bear 
 obfervation. There was doubtlefs fome appearance of cultiva- 
 •tion, when the country was better inhabited, as the moft ftubborn 
 foil cannot refift the efforts of induftry. But as the power of 
 tlie Turks began to decline in thefe parts, commerce failed apace ; 
 the inhabitants of this populous city removed by degr.'es to the 
 more fertile banks of the Nile, and have left it a prey to poverty 
 and defolation ! 
 
 FRIDAY, i8th July. 
 
 We received very difagreeable tidings this morning relative to 
 the caravan. The road is fo infefted with Buddoos, or wild 
 Arabs, that its progrefs Is delayed, until a reinforcement arrives 
 from the Nile. It feems that a Ihaik of the mountains, through 
 
 which
 
 [ '39 3 
 
 which tlie caravan palles, has lately difappeared -, fo that the fe- 
 curity which the countiy was in from his influence, no longer 
 fubfifts. It is cuftomary for the caravan to pay a tribute to thefe 
 chiefs, for a paffage through their diilri6ts. They are only rob- 
 bers of a larger growth, and openly fet their protedtion to fale, 
 to defend the traveller from the rapine of their tribes. 
 
 Diftrefiing as this circumftance is, we are habituated to difap- 
 pointment, and are arrived at that happy temper of mind, which 
 rejects complaint in things unavoidable. As foon as a fufficient 
 number of camels arrive, to tranfport ourfelves and baggage to 
 the river, we are determined to fet out, in company with the fhaik 
 or his fon ; our number and fire-arms being fufficient, in our 
 opinion, to put any band of robbers to flight. We fliall, at leaft, 
 make up fifteen camels ; not to mention the Chrifl:ians and 
 others, who might be glad to join us on fuch an expedition. But 
 it is likely we fhall not be reduced to take this ftep, which, at any 
 rate, mufl be attended with rifk. The caravan may come before 
 any further intelligence, as it only waited for the difperfion of the 
 Buddoos, who are between it and this place ; and the pradlice of 
 giving notice of its approach, by lighting fires on the hills, has 
 been difcontinued, fmce the arrival of thefe troublefome neigh- 
 bors. 
 
 The boats that waited for grain by the caravan, are now refolv- 
 ed upon failing, as its appearance is fo uncertain. The mafter of 
 a boat belonging to Judda, came to us this morning to know our 
 commands. As he feems to be a good fort of man, and this is the 
 only opportunity we may have of advifing our friends in India of 
 our fituation, we are determined to write by him, to the care of 
 Mr. Horfeley at Mocha, who has his letters very pun6lually for- 
 warded to Suez per viam Judda. 
 
 The Arabs are beggars from the highefl: to the loweft. Indeed, 
 fo facred is the flate of poverty among them, that they hold its 
 
 T 2 votaries
 
 [ HO ] 
 
 votaries as under the peculiar direftion of Providence. And this 
 humane notion is the fource of that charity, which is the moft 
 general virtue they poflTefs. It is not, therefore, to be v^'-ondered 
 at, that an Arab feels not the Ihame which overfpreads the cheek 
 of an European petitioner. He afks, without fcruple, for what he 
 thinks his poverty entitles him to ; and intrudes himfelf in his 
 rags into the prefence of his fuperiors, from v^^hich he feldom or 
 never experiences a repulfe. A fon of a Ihaik of Yambo is about 
 to return thither on one of the boats, and came to-day to demand 
 a prefent of us. As we were at a lofs what to offer him, the old 
 fhaik flood our friend on this occafion, and gave him two gold 
 pieces in our name, called mauheboops, of the value of one dollar 
 and an half each. Thefe we are to give him credit for when we 
 fettle accounts with the fliaik. In the evening the man came for 
 our letters, which we delivered to him. 
 
 SATURDAY, 19th July. 
 
 The air was fo bleak during the night, that we were glad to 
 retire into the houfe, though the place we fleep in is defended 
 from the wind, by the height of the walls. This is one of the 
 fineft climates under the fun, the air ferene and wholefome, and 
 the fky always unclouded. The i^ays of the fun are tempered by 
 the refrefliing breezes from the fea, which conftantly blow during 
 the hotter months of the year. The foutherly winds prevail only 
 in December, January, and February ; and at the changes of the 
 moon, they are fometimes felt for a day or two in the other 
 months. From our experience of this fea, we do not think it 
 pradlicable for a veffel to get up to Suez later than March. But 
 then file may always reach Cofire, whence her packets, and even 
 her goods, may be conveyed at an eafy expence to the Nile. Ghin- 
 nah, a city of Upper Egypt, is fituated about 1 30 miles W. N. W. 
 
 of
 
 [ HI ] 
 
 of Cofirej thither the caravan goes, and there boats maybe had 
 hi great plenty for Cairo, which is 500 computed miles from 
 thence. This route can be only recommended to a packet-boat 
 with difpatches from India, or to a veflel that lofes her paflage to 
 Suez; as the e.xpence of boat-hire down the river, and the cuf- 
 toms of this port, would prove a confiderable draw-back on the 
 profits of the voyage. But in fuch a fituation, we doubt not that 
 velfels would find their account in coming here, inftead of repair- 
 ing to Judda, as the fnow Adventure had orders to do, to the 
 great lofs of her owners. A treaty of commerce might as readily 
 be effected with the princes of Upper Egypt, as with the bey of 
 Cairo ; if the India Company do not confider this trade as pre- 
 judicial to their interefls. It is not my intention, at prefent, to 
 enter into a difcuflion of this matter, as I acknowledge myfelf but 
 an incompetent judge of it. But if the fpecies of goods which are 
 carried to the Cairo market, and the channels into which they are 
 afterwards thrown, be confidered, it does not appear, that the 
 eftablifliment of this commerce would operate materially to the 
 Company's lofs. The cargoes for this track are chiefly of the 
 fineft afibrtment, and their circulation confined to the ports of 
 the Mediterranean ; fo that it is not to be feared they will inter- 
 fere with the fale of the Company's merchandife*. 
 
 The Arabs here are much lefs referved in converfation than in 
 Arabia. The fliaik himfelf has mentioned his wives to us more than 
 once, though it is a fubje£l on which his countrymen at home 
 preferve the ftricleft filence. But in proportion as they are re- 
 moved from the land of their Prophet, it would feem that they 
 throw off the aufterity which is infeparable from bigotry. Their 
 features are confiderably relaxed here, of the folemnity that they 
 
 * It is not unlikely that this queftion will be decided by the Turks themfelves, 
 whofe ficklenefs and rapacity may lead them tooverfet an infant commerce, by means 
 more forcible to thofe engaged in it, than the authority of the legiflature itfelf. 
 
 afFed
 
 [ 142 ] 
 
 afFe6l at Yanibo j and the old mail reliflies a joke with as much 
 glee as ourfelves. He has juft now gamed much upon our con- 
 fidence by an inftance of forbearance, which bcfpeaks him fome- 
 what div'efted of the rapacious fpirit of his tribe. My European 
 fervant was imprudent enough to venture out in the duflc, into the 
 quarter of the town where the/i/ks dejoie refide. He was difco- 
 vered by the patrole, and after having fufFered fome indignities, was 
 hurried away to the guard-houfe, whence he was releafed by the 
 Ihaik's order, as foon as the report was made to him. This hap- 
 pened two nights ago, and was kept from our knowledge. The 
 old man was very backward to mention the fubjefl to us, which 
 he did at length, on account, we believe, of the mifchief that 
 might enfue to the foolifli fellow, were he ever caught by the na- 
 tives in fuch a place again. Had this incident occurred at Yambo, 
 or even at Mocha, where Grangers are lefs liable to impofitions, 
 there is no doubt but the fervant would have been detained in 
 prifon, until his liberty was purchafed at the price of three or four 
 hundred dollars. 
 
 The fhaik brought us word this evening, that he had juft re- 
 ceived certain intelligence of the caravan having left the Nile. 
 While he was fitting with us, an exprefs arrived, intimating 
 that a parcy of Buddoos were ia the neighborhood, and had feized 
 a camel and four alTes belonging to the town, which had gone 
 out this morning to fetch charcoal. The old man immediately 
 fignified his refolution to fally forth with a few attendants, and 
 obferve their motions. For this end he borrowed the pair of 
 piftols belonging to me, which he had long fixed his eye upon, 
 and which I had promifed to prefent him with on our arrival at 
 Ghinnah. Fires were now lighted on the different eminences 
 which overlook the town, and the drum beat to arms. Nor were 
 thefe precautions ufelefs, in fuch a defencelefs place as this, which 
 might be plundered with great eafe by a refolute and well- 
 5 , acroutered
 
 [ H3 ] 
 
 accoutered band. But thefe robbers are reported not only to be 
 indifferently armed, but to be void of all fpirit when they meet 
 with refiflance. The third part may be furniflied with match- 
 locks, ^nd the reft with fpears and fwords. A miferable race, 
 wandering from hill to hill, and fubfifting on the pilfer of ftrag- 
 gling paflengers. We prepared our fire-arms for their reception, 
 lliould they venture to affault our caftle ; and there was little oc- 
 cafion for our keeping a regular watch, as it was not pofTible to 
 obtain a found nap during the night, whofe •' dull ear" (as Shake- 
 fpear denotes it) was deafened by the rattling of the drum, and 
 the chorus of a war-fong. Thefe the Arabs continued until the 
 morning dawned, and, delivering them from their fears, permit- 
 ted us to take an hour's repofe. 
 
 SUNDAY, 20th July. 
 
 We find that the Turkifh commandant had every thing in rea- 
 dinefs in the fort, to have done execution among the Buddoos. 
 The gunner this morning was fpunging the few pieces that are 
 mounted on the walls, having drawn, we fuppofe, the charges 
 of powder, which may ferve on a future occafion. The Turk 
 breakfafted with us, and magnified, with the rhodomontade of 
 his nation, the ftrength of his citadel, and the valor of his 
 troops ; both of which, however, we muft confefs, might with- 
 ftand the attack of an army of fuch vagrants, as thefe have been 
 reprefented to us ! 
 
 Even in this remote corner of the globe the chara6ter of the 
 Turks ftrongly difplays itfelf. Sufpicious of ftrangers, and jea- 
 lous of obfervation, they endeavor to conceal their weaknefs un- 
 der an oftentatlous language. Though he has never invited us 
 into his fort, the commandant frequently talks of the impor- 
 tance of his charge ; and though the contempt which the fhaik 
 
 entertains
 
 [ 144 1 
 entertains for him is too vifible to efcape our notice, he is wilHng 
 to infpire us with an idea of his own fuperiority. Confcious 
 that his power is daily mouldering away in thefe parts, the Turk 
 grows more and more diftruftful of the Arab ; while the latter 
 can no longer fupprefs the rancor which he has conceived againft 
 his tyrannical mafters. To what lengths this mutual averfion 
 will cany them, time alone can difcover. But this appears pro- 
 bable : (hould a favorable conjun<5lure prefent itfelf to the Arabs, 
 to recover the territories of Egypt, it will not pafs by unheeded. 
 This conqueft of their Prophet's family may return into their 
 hands, and then, by a natural courfe of things, revert to the do- 
 minion of the original pofTeffor. Thus, by a retrograde motion, 
 the chains of bondage may be unloofed, and the rights of the 
 native be reftored to him. 
 
 One of the prefent fubjefts of our apprehenfion is, that the 
 houfe we live in will not laft our time, fhould the caravan meet 
 with further delays. The rafters are of the date-tree, and in- 
 flead of plank or tiles, the floor is compofed of ruflies laid clofe 
 together. On this loofe fand is placed, and over all tile coarfe 
 matts of the country. Materials of this fort muft have a won- 
 derful elafticity in them ; and every ftep we take, is attended by 
 an univerfal tremor of the houfe. Neither would a ftranger ima- 
 gine that we were better provided in regard to the roof. This 
 is formed of nothing flronger than rufhes, on which flones are 
 heaped, to prevent their being fcattered by the winds. But in 
 this fettled climate the native requires no defence, but againft 
 the rays of the fun ; thunder and lightning being almoft un- 
 known to him ; and even rain a very uncommon vilitor. By 
 the accounts of the inhabitants, no rain has fallen at Cofire for 
 thefe three years paft ; nor does it ever exceed a Ihower or two, 
 when it comes. Of this the ftru6ture of their remaining houfes 
 is an unqueftionable proof j for being rebuilt with mud, and half 
 
 thatched
 
 [ 145 ] 
 
 thatched with rufhes, one day of rain would mix them with theii- 
 mother earth. 
 
 MONDAY, 2ift July. 
 
 Old and defolate as this town is, cats are the chief and almofl 
 only nuifance which we have found here. But we are infelted 
 with thefe vermin to fuch a degree, that no provifion can be fe- 
 cured from their talons during the night. It is to no purpofe 
 to lock the door, when the roof is fo unable to withftand their 
 aflaults, A droll adventure happened laft night, in confequence 
 of the voracioufnefs of thefe animals, which may not be unwor- 
 thy of remark. We had been prefented with a difli of nice 
 cakes by one of our Chriftian acquaintance, which a fervant, 
 out of his great wifdom, hung up. in the room where one of our 
 companions flept. Though the doors and windows were flung 
 open on account of the heat, he thought the cakes would be fafer 
 here than in any other place ; and for the greater fecurity, fuf- 
 pended them over the gentleman's bed. But the very reverfe fell 
 out. When all was quiet, the cats, which had been attradled in 
 great numbers by the favory fmell of the cakes, rufhed in at once 
 from all quarters, and, without the leafl refpecSt to the intended 
 guardian of them, and direfted by inftintSt to their booty, flew 
 in a tumultuous manner towards it. Our companion was 
 awakened by the growling of two of thefe ferocious creatures, 
 who were difputing for a prize on his pillow ; and, finding by 
 the noife which affailed his ears, that the combat raged with 
 equal fury on all fides, he ran to a flick that flood near him, and 
 with an adivity equally new and furprizing, lay about him with 
 fuch fuccefs, that his perfecutors made off" at length with the re- 
 mains of the plunder. We, who took up our lodging in the 
 yard, were difturbed by this uncommon tumult, which did not 
 
 U continue
 
 f 146 ] 
 
 contirtue Icfs than a quarter of an hour. It Immediately recalled 
 to our minds an adventure of Don Quixote's, with this diffe- 
 rence only, that the prefent was not a preconcerted one. It was 
 perhaps happy for our friend, that the cats had fomething forcible 
 enough to draw their attention from him, or his face and body 
 might have fuffered equally with the knight's of facetious memory. 
 Our mirth was increafed however according to the innocence of 
 the diftrefs, which deprived him of his fleep during the whole 
 night. This was every moment broken by the mewing of thefe 
 animals, that hovered around the fcene of action until the day 
 broke, and difclofed to the unfortunate hero the caufe of his 
 perplexity. 
 
 ■^ Should we remain here much longer, we fhall not have where- 
 with to fupply the cravings of thefe people, who are continually 
 importuning us for powder, ball, flints, and every article that they 
 fix their eyes upon. Empty bottles are particularly acceptable 
 to them ; and the fhaik himfelf did not difdain to requeft a dozen 
 for his own ufe. Even fuch trifles as thefe have given rife to 
 jealoufies in this Ample place : nay, one of the fhaik's guards has 
 gone fo far, as to throw out threats of vengeance againft our 
 fei*vant Ibrahim, becaufe the preference of a few bottles was 
 given to another. To punifli his infolence, we took upon us 
 this morning to forbid this fellow the houfe. Since our firfl: ar- 
 rival he has been remarkably ofiicious, and profufe of his tenders 
 of fervice ; but as we have always confidered him in the light of 
 a fpy, we did not regret the opportunity which permitted us to 
 
 rid ourfelves of fo troublefome a vifitor. 
 Sfii 
 
 m ^o ' TUESDAY, 22d July. 
 
 ixi \lno iib 
 
 A boat arrived lafl: night from Tor, in the gulf of Suez, 
 
 >^hich brings intelligence that there are four Englifli veflels ftill 
 
 4 ^.u:?:-j^::l. at
 
 t H7 ] 
 
 at Suez. We may therefore flatter ourfelves with tlve hopes of 
 relieving our friends in India from their apprehenfions for our 
 fafety : the accounts we tave hitherto fent being unfatisfadiory, 
 and their conveyance uncertain. Our fhatk hkewife informed u?, 
 in the courfe of his vifit this morning, that two Europeans had 
 arrived in a boat at Tor, and had fet out on camels for Suez 
 without any efcort, about a month ago. Thefe we know to be 
 the gentlemen already mentioned to have touched at Yambo, and 
 who had the charge of the packet which Captain Dibdin brought 
 from Madras. We could not but congratulate ourfelves on, be- 
 ing carried by this road inftead of that by Tor, which would 
 infallibly have been the furtheft port that our boat could have 
 reached in the Red Sea, at this feafon. Our fituation appears to 
 us in every refpe£l more eligible than theirs. The country be- 
 tween Tor and Suez is efteemed the moft uncivilized in all Ara- 
 bia. There is no regular caravan, and we cannot but tremble 
 for the fecurity of thefe adventurers. Their appearance indeed is 
 a powerful circumftance in their favor ; and it might be better 
 for us, if we were as bare of baggage and money as they are re- 
 ported to be. 
 
 The fhaik informs us, that another camel and fome afles have 
 been taken by the buddoos, which occafioned his fending an ex- 
 prefs laft night to meet the caravan, and warn it of the danger. 
 The alarm which thefe robbers have fpread through the country, 
 has certainly been the caufe of its extraordinary delay, which is 
 fo grievous to the inhabitants of Cofire, that the Turkifti com-, 
 mandant juft now told us, he has difpatched a camel to Ghin- 
 Tiah, to requeft that an additional guard may be fent after the 
 caravan, to condu£l it hither. A fcarcity of every article of life 
 has been felt here for fome time, and famine itfelf can only be 
 warded off for a few days longer. he jfioci /"' 
 
 There is a trait in the charader of the Arabs, which is very 
 
 U 2 difgufting;
 
 r 148 ] 
 
 dllgufting ; but no more peculiar to them than to MufTulmen in 
 general. They are fo dirty in their linen, that though they 
 take great pains to adorn themfelves in gay apparel, this habitual 
 uncleanlinefs cannot be concealed. Their fhirt is of the coarfeft 
 linen, and much refembles the Englifh {hift. Their drawers 
 are loofe, and ufually of filk, and their under garment of dyed 
 linen, except on particular occafions, when it is exchanged for 
 a more coftly one of filk. Over this they throw a cloak of broad- 
 cloth, which is edged with fattin or fur. They wear flippers orr 
 their feet, and. turbans on their heads, of much lefs magnitude 
 than the other followers of Mahomet. The drefs of the women 
 varies little from that of the men. Their fliirt and drawers are 
 the fame, but their whole habit confifts of a loofe gown, which- 
 is gathered up and fattened at the breaft. They take the greateft 
 pride in their hair, which falls down their necks in numerous 
 plaits. But this is concealed when they go abroad by a part of 
 their vails, with as much care as their faces. The vail is di- 
 vided into two pieces, and joins by a clafp on the forehead, 
 which is either of gold or of precious ftones : fo that the fore- 
 head and eyes are entirely expofed to public view. The com- 
 plexions of the females are much fairer than thofe of the men, 
 which mufli be attributed to the care which is taken to preferve 
 them from the fun. In this particular they feem to be a diftinft 
 fjpecies from their fwarthy mates j and are really fo in refpect to 
 the neatnefs of their drefs, and the liberality of their principles. 
 This encomium is but due to their merit, and falls ftiort of the 
 aflillance which we experienced from them in the hour of our- 
 greateft diftrefs. 
 
 WEDNESDAY,
 
 C 149 ] 
 
 WEDNESDAY, 23d July. 
 
 We were agreeably ftruck this morning with the appearance 
 of three camels, which were haftening to the town. They 
 brought the news of the caravan's approach. It left the river 
 in three divifions, and travels by eafy ftages towards Cofire. The 
 firft divifion fell in with the wild Arabs who were lately in this 
 quarter, and was attacked by them, and plundered of forty ca- 
 mels loaded with merchandize. It happened to be the fmalleft, 
 and unprovided with a proper guard. The two larger divifions 
 will not be here before to-morrow, and are faid to confift of one 
 thoufand or twelve hundred camels. But the danger we learn is 
 now over, as thefe banditti are gone towards Suez, which is the 
 road to their own country. This is the intelligence which we 
 received from the Turk at breakfaft, and it was confirmed by the 
 fliaik, when he came to wifli us joy of our fpeedy departure. 
 
 By thefe camels there is little come belides wheat, and we 
 are ftill diftreffed for good water. We have been obliged to drink 
 the water of this place for thefe two days paft : it is very 
 brackifh and unpalatable : but we take the precaution to boil it- 
 for our ufe ; and this has probably prevented its difagreeing 
 with us. 
 
 One of the plagues of Egypt feems to be renewed to-day, to - 
 our extreme annoyance and regret. We had been quite free from 
 the infe6ls which are continually engendered in hot climates, 
 when a warm foutherly wind has brought fuch a fwarm of flies 
 along with it, as to prevent the pofTibility of obtaining our 
 cuftomary nap after dinner. The whole houfe is filled with 
 them, and not a moment's fatisfa6tion is to be found within 
 doors. This is the firft time that the wind has been in the- 
 foutherly quarter fince our arrival at Cofire -, and confequently 
 
 5. is
 
 [ 150 ] 
 
 is the fiifl fair wind that we {hould have met with, had our boat 
 purfued her voyage to Suez. The gulph of Suez is fo narrow, 
 that the wind m\ifl be veiy favorable to carry up a boat fo badly 
 fitted out as ours ; and all attempts on our part to beat up the 
 channel, muft have proved fruitlefs. Though the charge of 
 duplicity againft tlie vizier and the nokidah of Yambo, remains 
 unrefuted, this prevalence of contrary winds is no impeachment 
 of their experience of this fea. The weather is confiderably 
 changed by the alteration of the wind ; and had we a thermome- 
 ter to announce it, I am convinced that it is hotter by many de- 
 grees, than it was yeftcrday. We are the more incommoded by 
 the lieat, as our houfe has not a window towards the fea. 
 
 V/J 
 
 THURSDAY, .4th JOLlf.^'*' "? '."""" '''', 
 
 The jQiaik this morning propofed to us a fcheme of getting 
 expeditioully to the Nile, though he could not but take notice 
 of the heavy charges that would attend it. We had been repeat- * 
 ing our complaints of the delay of the main body of the cara- 
 van, and of the detriment which our Hay here, would be of to 
 our affairs. This was a fine opening for him to benefit by our . 
 necefiity, which he judged was too prefling, to admit of hefita- 
 tion in point of expence. He offered to procure us as many ca- 
 mels, as would tranfport us and our baggage, from thofe which 
 arrived yefterday. For thefe, however, we were to pay double the 
 price of camel-hire to Ghinnah, on account of the fcarcity of 
 thefe animals at prefent. To this meafure we would readily haVe 
 fubfcribed, had not the price he demanded, exceeded trebly what 
 it ought to have done from his own calculation. When he 
 even reduced it, at our remonftrance, to eight dollars per camel, 
 we were ftill at a lofs how to adt. We found that we could not 
 
 manage without eighteen jcamels, for the accommodation of our- ' 
 10 .oiriJ Y^fni/oj 1U0 i f^iy^^^
 
 felves, the (haik, and an efcort of ten foldiers, \vli5di'Ife tl-iihSsIs" 
 the fmalleft we can have, and for vvhofe attendance we ftauft pay 
 lixty dollars. As it is impofllble for ns to afcertain the charges 
 that we fliall incur on the way to Cairo ; as the impofitions that 
 we may meet with on the Nile may equal, if not exceed thofe 
 which wc have already experienced, it was but prudent to have 
 an eye to our purfes, which may be exhaufted before we find a 
 friend to replenifh them. But our deliberations on this head, 
 were put an end to by the advice of the other principal people of 
 the town, who came upon us at this critical moment. They re- 
 prefented to us the danger that we fliould run, in travelling with 
 fo fmall a body ; that the caravan's delay was certainly occafioned 
 by alarms on the road ; and that, at all events, it was better for 
 us to wait for intelligence from the caravan, before we attempted 
 to proceed. Nay, they even went fo far as to reprobate the con- 
 du6l of the fhaik, which, in this refpeft, favoured of temerity, ' 
 and an inattention to our interefts. Though we gave not an 
 entire credit to the infmuations of thefe people, whofe jealoufy of 
 the fliaik's good fortune was palpable enough, we had heard too 
 much not to be guided by reafon, which pointed out to us the 
 fafeft path to purfue. Rejoiced as they would have been, to have 
 enjoyed the opportunities which the old man had to pillage us^^ 
 daily, their malice confirmed our refolution, which began to 
 waver, of waiting for the caravan. 
 
 To our great relief, fome afles which we fent to the moun- 
 tains, are returned this morning, with fix Ikins of water. This 
 we may drink without fear, as its quality is good j but it is ra- ' 
 ther more unpalatable than that we have been ufing of late. 
 The tafte is oily, from the {kins having been newly foaked in 
 that difguftful liquid, to prevent their leaking. We have the 
 agreeable profpe6t before us, of being furnifhed with this be- " 
 verage during our journey through the defart ; as the Arabs, 
 
 whoft
 
 [ 152 ] 
 
 whofe bufinefs it is to keep the fkins in orde., are too lazy to at- 
 tend to the cleanlinefs of the infide of them. 
 
 FRIDAY, 25th July, 
 
 This morning the fhaik brought the mafter of the Tor veflel to 
 pay us a vifit. It feems, that he went in company with the Eu- 
 ropean gentlemen from Tor to Cairo, where he carried his own 
 coffee for fale. We have the pleafure to be eafed of our fears on 
 their account, by this intelligence of their fafe arrival at that ca- 
 pital. It is rather extraordinary, that we fhould have remained 
 fo long ignorant of thefe circumftances, and that the adventures 
 of our countrymen fliould have been related to us by halves. But 
 this has been more the effe6t of accident than defign. The Arabs 
 give us credit for the fang-froid which is the prmcipal ingredi- 
 ent in the compofition of their own minds ; and were carelefs of 
 the communication of an incident of fuch little importance to us, 
 as the fafety of thefe ftrangers. Great events are fometimes ex- 
 hibited to mark the chara6ter of an individual ; while a trait like 
 this will fuffice to fix that of a nation ! 
 
 From the mafter of the vefTel we enquired feveral particulars 
 of a journey, fo new to our experience, and fo fimilar, in our idea, 
 to the one which we were about to undertake. But little could be 
 gathered from a man, whofe imagination was wholly engroffed 
 by felf-intereft, that could contribute to our inftruftion or amufe- 
 ment. The road, he tells us, lies through a continued defart, on 
 which they travelled for fifteen days ; and, to their agreeable fur- 
 prize, they met not with any interruption or alarm. In the courfe 
 of the converfation we learnt, that this man's veffel is the proper- 
 ty of the fliaik's brother, who is a merchant of Cairo. This con- 
 Keftion of his may be a bond for the old man's good ufage of us j 
 as, over and above his dependence on the bey, his brother might 
 
 dearly
 
 [ 153 ] 
 
 dearly anfwer any complaint which we might prefer on our arri- 
 val at Cairo. 
 
 At noon a camel arrived, with intelligence of the caravan's long- 
 expeifled approach. It had halted during the heat of the day in a 
 valley about two leagues diftant, and will be here in the evening. 
 The fhaik confirmed this news in a vifit in the afternoon, and 
 gave us afiurances, that we fliould fet out the day after to-morrow 
 at furtheft. At fun-fet about 200 camels came in, and the reft 
 are expelled during the night. We fent a meffage to the fliaik, to 
 defire he would provide us with camels, and give the neceffary or- 
 ders concerning our departure. This brought him to our houfe 
 again. But the prologue to the fcene was the demand of a loan 
 of twenty dollars, which he was in want of to purchafe coffee. As 
 he was to accompany us to the Nile,. an adventure of this kind 
 would make it the better worth his while, and give him fome em- 
 ployment during his abfence. Thefe were arguments not to be 
 conteftedj at leaft, we fliould have been willing to keep the old 
 fellow in humour, had it been at the expence of double the fum in 
 queftion. For as to any difcharge of the debt, it was the laft thing 
 we looked for. We had been too long acquainted with the ge- 
 nius of the Arabs, to confider fuch a demand in any other light, 
 than a new fpecies of begging. The crafty veteran received the 
 money with many profeffions of gratitude ; and while he proraifed 
 to expedite our journey, we obferved a fmile of exultation on his 
 countenance, which feemed to portend us no good. 
 
 S A T U R D AiY, 26th July. 
 
 The morning was ufliered in by a vifit from the fliaik, who was 
 attended by the principal Arabs of the town. We foon difcovered 
 the errand they came upon, which was, agreeably to the national 
 maxim, to fee Vv^hat they could ftrip us of before our departure. 
 
 X Every
 
 [ 154 ] 
 
 Evtry eye appeared enlivened with expeftation, and devoured in 
 idea the contents of our baggage, which was piled up in one cor- 
 ner of the room. Whatever might be their diffenfions in other 
 matters, they were evidently unanimous on the prefent occafion. 
 We were determined to bring them to the point at once, and de- 
 manded of the fhaik the fum total we were to pay for getting to 
 Ghinnah. This, after fome hefitation and wrangling among 
 thcmfelves, they fixed at 205 dollars. The paper which they 
 delivered to us to explain matters, will evince the knavery and ex- 
 tortion of this race : efpecially when it is known, that the ufuat 
 hire of a camel is but two dollars, and that money bears ten times 
 its original value, in a country where fpecie is fo fcarce. The 
 tranflation is literally as follows : 
 
 To the government of Cofire for its prote6tion Dollars 1 00 
 
 To twelve camels from hence to Ghinnah - - - 80 
 
 To pay for two afkaries or foldiers, to guard you - - 10 
 
 To a prefent to the fhaik for his company - - - 15 
 
 Dollars 
 
 205 
 
 This fum, added to our other expences, will occafion our be- 
 ing fufferers to the amount of 500 dollars fince our arrival here j 
 which may alfo be placed to the account of the vizier of Yambo. 
 We paid it down, however, on the fpot, and difmiffed our vifitors, 
 who appeared to be well pleafed with the fuccefs of their nego- 
 tiation. 
 
 While we were employed in^ packing up our baggage, and pre- 
 paring for our expedition, a man of a good mien, and a creditable 
 appearance, entered the room without ceremony, and requefted a 
 private audience on bufinefs of moment to ourfelves. He was 
 of the race of the Seids, who pretend to be the defendants of Ma- 
 homet, and, as fuch, are univerfally refpedted among the follow- 
 ers
 
 [ iS5 ] 
 
 crs of that fuccefsful impoftor. The generality of thefe Seids 
 tread in the footfteps of their founder, and have as flender a title 
 as himfelf to the homage which they demand from the dehided 
 multitude. But fo prevalent is the blindnefs of man, that the 
 fhadow fhall outweigh the fubftance in his fight ; and thefe hy- 
 pocrites, under the garb of a fpecious name, fliall obtain pen* 
 fions from Mahometan princes, who were never guilty of reward- 
 ing merit or virtue during their reigns. I have myfelf known 
 more than one inftance of this kind, while I refided in India ; and 
 was once told by a Seid, who came to folicit charity of me, 
 that he had rejedled with fcorn a purfe of 300 rupees, or 40I. 
 which was offered him by the nabob of Arcot, who was fain to 
 purchafe his prayers at a larger price ! With fuch a confidence, 
 which would lead him into every fecret, and fuch a prote^Sion, 
 which would fecure him from any chaftifement, it is no wonder 
 that the man who now vifited us, fliould have become acquainted 
 with the intrigues of the Arabs, or that he fhould have had refp- 
 lution enough to warn us of them. After alking pardon for my 
 digrefllon, to this man we will now return. 
 
 When the fervants were difmifled, and the door was fliut, the 
 Seid profefled to us his concern at finding us in that inhofpitable 
 region. That he had heard of our former adventures with fur- 
 prize, and was filled with admiration to conceive, how we fhould 
 furmount the dangers which now encompaffed us. That as our 
 foes were numerous, our conduct could not be too circumfpe6l j 
 and that, above all things, we fhould decline, to the utmoft of 
 our power, any propofal to travel in a body diftin6t from the main 
 caravan : for, as he was convinced there were defigns formed 
 againfl us, the only chance to fnaflrate them, was to keep our 
 perfons and baggage with the croud. However bitter and alarm- 
 ing this communication was, we could not but pay our hearty ac- 
 knowledgments to the author of it. We confidered him as a good 
 
 X 2 fpirit.
 
 [ 156 ] 
 
 fpirit,' who had aflumed this form to aflift in our prefervation, 
 . and we promifed to hold his friendly caution in faithful remem- 
 brance. The yard was full of people, who were fewing up our 
 trunks in bags, and the fhaik himfelf was fometimes among them 
 .to give direftions. This circumftance obliged the Seid to fhorten 
 our conference, who took his leave for fear of obfervation ; but 
 not before he had recommended us to the protedlion of his Pro- 
 phet, whofe votaries, at the very moment, were plotting our de- 
 ftruftion. 
 
 Scarce had our humane monitor left the room, when the (haik 
 came in to excufe himfelf from accompanying us. He lamented 
 that fome affairs of importance required his prefence at Cofire, 
 becaufe he fhould be deprived fo foon of our company. But as to 
 our convenience and fafety, they would equally be confulted by 
 his fon, who would attend us on the road. He found no diffi- 
 culty in perfuading us of the truth of this conclufion. Our pre- 
 fent views were to get, in the bell: manner we could, to fome civi- 
 lized place, whofe extent would fcreen us from notice, or whofe 
 government would fecure us from further depredations. In the 
 immediate temper we were in, the ferviccs of the fon feemed to 
 promife us full as much fincerity as thofe of the father. 
 
 SUNDAY, 27th July. 
 
 We were employed the whole morning in preparing for oui" 
 departure, which is fixed for four o'clock this afternoon. After 
 all the money we have paid, the principal article of our journey is 
 yet to be provided at our expence : and this is water. Ten new 
 flcins, that hold from three to four gallons each, were accordingly 
 purchafed for the ufe of ourfelves and fervants. And this flock 
 ftood us in no contemptible fum, in a country where good water 
 is dearer than any other neceflary of life. We furniflied ourfelves 
 
 with
 
 [ 157 ] 
 
 with a kind of biflcet to fatisfy the calls of hunger, and added to 
 .the ftore a mutton-pye of our own making: for cookery was a 
 knowledge to which we had been indebted more than once, for a 
 comfortable meal, fmce we left the fnow Adventure. 
 
 Our old hoft is almoft the only reafonable being we have met 
 with here. While the reft of his countrymen are racking us to 
 the utmoxt, he is very well contented with a gratification of fif- 
 teen doliar.s, for the time that we have refided in his houfe, which 
 is upwards of a fortnight. We take a pleafure in beflowing on 
 this good man the little trifles we leave behind us, fuch as chefts, 
 beds, and old linen, in gratitude for his fervices, which were not 
 the flighteft to people in our fituation -, impofed upon as we Ihould 
 have been in every neceflary of life, but for his timely interpofir 
 tion. We were obliged, however, to obferve great fecrecy in this 
 donation j which, mean as its intrinfic value may appear, might 
 have excited the attention of his fuperiors, and induced the fliaik 
 himfelf to difpute it with him after our departure. 
 
 At four o'clock we put on our Arabian drefies, which we had 
 provided for the journey. As we have fuffered the hair to grow 
 upon our upper lips for fome months paft, we are each provided 
 with a tolerable pair of whiifkers; and as our complexions are by 
 this time pretty well tanned by the fun, we hope the more eafily 
 to efcape obfervation. But there is a peculiar charaderiffic in 
 the individuals of every nation, that will diftinguifli them 
 through the difguife of drefs and language. This is exemplified 
 daily amid the neighboring ftates of Europe, whofe habits and 
 manners are nearly the fame j and cannot fo much excite won- 
 der in our cafe, where the whole temperature of our minds and 
 bodies was fo contrary to that of the people, whom we endea- 
 vored to perfonate. Our landing on this coaft, it is true, was 
 known, and our progrefs was every where preceded by the he- 
 rald of rumor. But neither of thefe caufes confpired towards 
 5. the
 
 [ 158 ] 
 
 the difcovery of our origin, however they might have operated in 
 the feizure of our effects, and the detention of our perfons. 
 Every eye immediately pronounced us to be aUens to the land, 
 and did not require any further fupport of this opinion, than its 
 own penetration. 
 
 The Turkifh commandant had been very fparing of his vifits 
 of late, which we had imputed to his fhame of feeing us, after 
 the fcene of extortion he had been concerned in. Though we 
 gave him credit for a principle which the Arabs are wholly de* 
 void of, it appears, that we did him great injuftice in our con-^ 
 clufion. In the divifion of the fum demanded of us for the ufe 
 of the go-rernment, the Arabs had not only excluded him from a 
 fliare, but had kept the whole tranfaftion from his knowledge. 
 This we learnt from his own mouth, in a farewell vifit that we 
 now received from him. Whether he really was our friend, or 
 Was over-reached by the fhaik and his adherents, we cannot pre- 
 tend to determine ; and if we thought favorably of this Turk, 
 It arofe from his perfonal civilities towards us, and could not be 
 juftified by the general deportment of his nation towards Chrif- 
 tians. This Turk, and an Arab merchant, were the only people 
 in whofe profeffions we trufted ; though it happened, that their 
 good wilhes were all they could beftow on us. The merchant 
 ^as a refident of Judda, and was here on a commercial fcheme. 
 He had contra6led an affcdion for the Englifh in his native 
 place, and cautioned us frequently againft the knavery of his 
 countrymen, though he was afraid to difclofe his good-will to- 
 wards us openly. To him we entrufted letters direfled to the 
 care of Mr. Horleley at Mocha, advifmg our friends in India of 
 our departure to Ghinnah. 
 
 The fhaik's avaricious difpofition feems to equal that of his 
 
 countrymen in general. He has thrown off at laft the mafk of 
 
 diffimulation, and a^s in his native chara^er. Wliile it an- 
 
 9 fwered
 
 [ 159 ] 
 
 fwered his purpofes, he affe6ted the humane patron -, and now 
 he plays the unfeeling tyrant with as good a grace. Our depar- 
 ture is deferred until the morning, on account of the caravan's 
 not being in readinefs ; and the fhaik has taken this opportunity 
 to infmuate to us, that the camel-drivers are not fatisfied with 
 the price we have paid them ! Gracious Heaven ! of what lati- 
 tude is the confcience of an Arab, which is not content with 
 three times the value of his beads' labor ! for three times are we 
 already charged, to what the native pays for the hire of a camel. 
 We are bent upon not complying with this further impofition, 
 unlefs this man fhould be bafe enough to obftru6l our departure. 
 The old fellow and we parted for the night on bad terms ; and 
 he was particularly irritated at our declining to accept of a centry 
 to guard our baggage, which was piled up in the yard. This was- 
 done by the advice of our venerable hoft, who told the fhaik, that 
 his walls were a fufficient defence for our property. This diverted 
 the fhaik's attention from us, and he let drop fome words fignifi- 
 cant of our reliance on a foolifh dotard, who might not be able 
 to prote6l our effefts from the attempts of the town's people. We 
 paid no other regard to this fpeech, than by fpreading our carpets 
 around the baggage, and taking our pofts on the ground, ready 
 to defend it againft the deligns of fecret or avowed enemies, 
 
 MONDAY, 28th July. 
 
 *• All's well that ends well," fays the old proverb ; and this, if 
 ever, was verified with us. The fhaik came early in the morning, 
 and looked gloomy. His ordinary falutation was even omitted, 
 and convinced us, that his difcontent was great, and not to be re- 
 moved, but by a compliance with his humour. When a Muflul- 
 man fails in the modes of politenefs, the worft is to be apprehend- 
 ed from his power, which will carry by force the point whicli his 
 
 addrefs
 
 [ i6o ] 
 
 addrcfs was nnable to nccomplifh. All ceremony was now laid 
 afide, and he told us in plain terms, that he mufl: have more mo- 
 ney. He condefcended, indeed, to place this requifition to the 
 account of the people of the town and country, who had been pef- 
 tering him for buxies, or prefents, from us. That it was our 
 misfortune to be confidered by thefe people as men of vaft 
 wealth, whofe trunks were filled with gold, precious ftones, and 
 rich merchandize, on which it was their cuftom to levy a tax. It 
 was in vain that we remonftrated againft this demand, which was 
 as wanton as unjuft. It was in vain that we referred to the 
 fhaik's own knowledge of our efFe6ls and profedion, neither of 
 which fubjecled us to the taxation impofed upon merchants and 
 their goods. It was in vain that we appealed to the government 
 of Cofire for its interpoiition in this matter, as we had paid fo 
 largely for its prote6tion. The dependants of the fhaik were yet 
 to receive their mite, and he declared in a determined tone, that 
 he could not pretend to fend us in fafety to the Nile, until he had 
 received orders from the bey of Cairo, unlefs we fatisfied the hill- 
 people with a donation of twenty-five dollars. Hard as the ex- 
 tortion was, we panted too much for a return to our friends and 
 country to hefitate long about it j and the fliaik was content with 
 the fum of twenty-three dollars, vv^hich we had kept about our 
 perfons for the extra expences of the road. And lucky it was for 
 us that this money was referved from our baggage, which, in its 
 prefent fituation, could not have been opened for a fupply, with- 
 out expofmg our real treafure, which was not inconfiderable, to 
 the eyes of the fhaik. Sufpicion of our concealed money was the 
 only ground on which he proceeded in his demands ; but a con- 
 viction of it might have operated more materially to our detri- 
 ment. The cloud which had loured in the countenance of the 
 fliaik, was in a moment difpelled, and, with a tone of infinite good- 
 humour, he ordered the camels to the door to take up our lug- 
 gage.
 
 [ i6i ] 
 
 gage. The hopes of our departure were now for the firft time 
 certain, and while we gave orders to the fervants in what manner 
 to difpofe of the things, our fpirits infenfibly returned to us, and 
 chafed all ideas of animofity and complaint. It appeared that 
 during our altercation the caravan had left the town, but was to 
 halt in a valley at a fmall diftance, to be joined by all ftragglers. 
 To avoid the impertinence of the mob that furroundcd the houfe, 
 the fiiaik advifed us to quit the town, and wait for our camels at the 
 weft angle of the fort. After a very cordial and moving feparation 
 with our good hoft, we reforted to the houfe of the Judda mer- 
 chant, and partook of a breakfaft which he had prepared for us. 
 Having embraced him, as a friend who had been raifed up to us 
 from the tribe of our enemies, we haftened to the appointed fpot. 
 Here, as we fat beneath the wall, our other friend, the Turk, ap- 
 peared on the ramparts, and bade us adieu ! At this inftant the 
 camels came up, and we found that they had only provided us 
 with ten inftead of twelve, for the eighty dollars. Nor was the 
 Ihaik prefent to reftify this wilful miftake. To increafe my 
 own hardfhip, my companions happened, as luck would have 
 it, to be beforehand with me, and to poffefs themfelves of the two 
 only riding camels that were in our train. I was, therefore, fain 
 to put up with one of the beafts which carried the baggage ; and 
 not finding my feat fo eafy as I could have wilhed, I confoled my- 
 felf with beftowing an hearty malediction on the Ikaik, for this 
 parting proof of his kindnefs. Soon after we had moved onwards, 
 we were overtaken by the young fhaik and the two guards, who 
 were to be our efcort on the road. They brought us the compli- 
 ments of the fhaik, who had grace enough left to Ihun an inter- 
 view, after this laft fcene of his political farce. The young man 
 endeavoured to palliate the offence, by afibring me it was a mif- 
 take, which fhould be redtified when we joined the caravan. Be- 
 fides the aforefaid Arabs, our company confifled of Major Alex- 
 
 Y ander.
 
 • if J.*^ ] 
 
 ander, Mr. Ilammomi, and myfelf, my European fervant, two 
 flaves belonging to tlie major, our interpreter Ibrahim, an Arab 
 fervant named Abdul Rullar, whom we had hired at Cofire, and 
 an Indian fakeer, whom we permitted to ride on a baggage-camel, 
 to afllflhim on his route to Cairo, wheie he was bound on a reli- 
 gious penance. We had a couple of mulkets, as many blunder- 
 bulies, and two pair of" piftols among outfelves^ with plenty of 
 cartridges which we had prepared. The fliaik's fon and his 
 attendants were much more completely armed, as were the camel- 
 drivers, who followed us on foot. At two o'clock in the after- 
 noon we joined the caravan, which we found in a valley two 
 hours journey from Cofire. The diflance I computed to be five 
 miles, as, by the beft obfervation I could make now and during 
 our journey, a camel goes at the rate of two miles and an half 
 an hour. Here a fcanty ftream waters the thirfty foil, and 
 about an acre around is covered with date-trees. Under thefe 
 we made a delicious repaft, upon the mutton-pye which we had 
 brought with us. The water is brackifli in this fprmg, and is 
 what the inhabitants of Cofire generally ufe. 
 
 In this valley we had a glimpfe of the friendly Seid, and it 
 was the laft we got of him. Some of the camels were in mo- 
 tion long before ours, and he pafled us on ane of them. At 
 three o'clock, we moved off the ground, and were not a little 
 ftartled to find that our whole colledive force did not exceed 
 forty camels. The caravan had departed, it feems, when the 
 Seid went by, and the conviftion of this brought his vain pre- 
 cautions to our minds. We could not help expoftulating pretty 
 fevercly with the young Ihaik on this negle6l of his, which 
 might fubjedt us to rilk. But as he laughed at any idea of dan- 
 ger to fuch a body as we were, and talked of overtaking the ca- 
 ravan before it reached the next ftage, we were under the ne- 
 ceffity of becoming quiet, to avoid the appearance of fe^r, 
 
 which
 
 which would have funk us in their eftimation. It was our in- 
 tereft to conceal, as much as poflible, the real motives of our 
 apprehenfion, and to appear to place a confidence in the man, 
 who was become our condudlor. Our party was the fourth 
 of this httle company, and we kept in as compact a body- 
 as the road would allow of, to fecure us the better againft the 
 effe<5ls of treachery or furprize. We continued our way through 
 the valley, which foon became defart and ftony like the hills 
 above it. At fix o'clock we halted to drink coffee, and to feed 
 our cattle. This flage v/as three hours, or feven miles and an half. 
 At eight o'clock the fignal was given for marching, but juft as we 
 had mounted our camels, an alarm was fpread of the approach 
 of the wild Arabs. In the confufion which this naturally occa- 
 sioned, we immediately difmounted, and affembling our fervants, 
 marched diredly to the quarter where our Arabs had fet up a 
 war-cry, and whence the difcharge of feveral matchlocks had 
 reached our ears. On the road we met with the young Ihaik 
 and his attendants, who were feeking us out, and feemed not a 
 little furprized at our alertnefs, and the good countenance we af- 
 fumed in this ugly affair. This we underftood from an expref- 
 fion which he dropped in the hearing of our Ibrahim ; which, 
 joined to the fudden ceffation of the tumult, convinced us that 
 he was at the bottom of it. But whatever he and his affociates 
 intended, the trick failed of any other purpofe, than that of let- 
 ting them fee we were ready to repel any infult. They gave 
 fome trifling reafon for the buftle, which they told us was owing 
 to the unexpected appearance of one of the hill-people, who had 
 threatened to pillage us while at Cofire. As we neither faw 
 this man, nor received any fatisfaftory account of the matter, 
 we attributed it to a defign to try our mettle, and to make what 
 advantage they could of our fears. But we lent a' deaf ear to 
 their demands of buxies or prefents, which v^-e mortified them in 
 
 Y 2 fayingj
 
 [ 'i64 1 
 
 faying, were not due to the timidity that they had betrayed. 
 When all was calm we mounted again, and moved on ; our 
 only light the ftars, which fhone very bright. We continued to 
 traverfe the fame valley as before, until two o'clock in the morn- 
 ing, when we halted beneath the hills, and fpread our carpets to 
 take fuch repofe, as our time, and the peculiarity of our circum- 
 ftances, would admit of. The laft llage was fix hours, or fifteen 
 miles, and by our reckoning, we are twenty-feven miles from 
 Cofire. 
 
 TUESDAY, 29th July. 
 
 At five o'clock the Arabs rouzed us to get ourfelves ready. 
 We were foon mounted, and began our march ; fading, and not 
 recovered from yefterday's fatigues. We were very folicitous for 
 a jun6lion with the caravan, but from the laft evening's ma- 
 noeuvres, and our difappointment at night, we are by this time 
 afcertained that our feparation had been intended, and confe- 
 quently, that a meeting would be unlikely before our arrival at 
 Ghinnah. In this uncomfortable fituation, our only hope I'efted 
 upon the knowledge which the caravan had of our being in the 
 defart, which we flattered ourfelves would deter our conductors 
 from any open outrage. Befides, we numbered the camels and 
 merchandize of a merchant of Ghinnah among our body, which 
 we ccnfidered as a kind of proteftion ; though whether we owed 
 this union to accident or defign, we could not determine. This 
 merchant, by name Mahomet, travels with us j and we under- 
 ftand, that we are to be lodged in his houfe during our fhort 
 ftay at Ghinnah. He is the brother of one Ally, who profeffed 
 a great regard for us at Cofire j and who is the caufe, we fuppofc, 
 of the invitation which the merchant has given us. 
 
 The country as we advance, ftill wears the fame barren face. 
 
 Here
 
 [ 165 3 
 
 Here and there a dwarf date-tree appears, and the trufle-bufh is 
 frequent on the road, to the great deUght and benefit of the poor 
 camel, who devours it very greedily. Among thefe bufhes we 
 found feveral deer, who muft necefTarily live many days without 
 water in the depth of this defart ; except that, like the rein-deer, 
 who digs with certainty for provender beneath the fnow, they 
 fupply themfelves with water from a fimilar practice. The Arabs 
 find fprings in particular fpots, and I doubt not but nature has 
 implanted in thefe poor animals the inftin6l to fatisfy one of 
 her loudeft calls. We likewife faw numbers of quail, and feve- 
 ral earths of an unknown animal ; probably of the hare and 
 gerbua, which are common in the defarts of Arabia, but did 
 not come within our view. This country would be truly romantic, 
 were it covered with verdure. The variety of flopes and declivi- 
 ties with which it is interfperfed, the frequent viftoes which the 
 openings between the hills afford, would prefent the beautiful 
 fcenes of nature, were the foil fertilized, as they do the fublime, 
 in their rude and fterile ftate. The mountains contain both ala- 
 bafter and marble, of which many pieces lie fcattered upon the 
 road. We made a long and fatiguing march, and at eleven o'clock 
 halted in a pafs between the mountains, where the Arabs dig for 
 frefli water, and find it very good. They have nothing indeed to 
 do, but to remove the dirt with which the fpring is choaked up ; 
 and as the water is drawn before its tranfparency returns, we 
 ftrained it through a cloth to take off the foulnefs. The moun- 
 tains here are fo perpendicular, and approach fo clofe together, 
 that at noon there is a fliade on the fouth fide for travellers to 
 repofe under. We had centinels on the heights during our flight 
 repafl, as this place has the charadter of being very dangerous. 
 The lafl flage was fix hours, or fifteen miles. At one o'clock we 
 moved onwards with a plentiful fupply of water, and went near 
 a mile through this pafs, which winds about like the entrance of 
 
 an.
 
 [ i66 ] 
 
 an Indian fortrefs ; and where an handful of men might check 
 the progrefs of a large army, were the country worth difputing 
 for. The wind was very hot from the vicinity of the rocky 
 mountains, and this day's journey proved very laborious to us, 
 who had led a fedentary life for fo many months paft. Our 
 minds indeed had been fufficiently exercifed, but our limbs were 
 enfeebled from eafe and ina6livity. We had no refrefliment, but 
 fome bifcuit and water, during the day, though our conduclor, 
 who was well mounted, puflied on frequently before us, and 
 had his cup of coffee with his friends, beneath the fhade of 
 fome projedting hill, that afforded fuel for a fire. This our 
 camels would by no means admit of our doing; and though 
 coffee would have been the beft recruit which our fpirits could 
 have received, we could only repine in iilence at the young 
 man's neglefl. At five o'clock we halted on a plain to refrefli 
 ourfelves. This ftage was four hours, or ten miles. 
 
 At feven o'clock in the evening we moimted again, and for 
 the firft time afcended an eminence by a very eafy approach. We 
 quickly regained the level country, and advanced at a fafter rate 
 than by day, through the vallies in which we are conftantly bu- 
 ried. The night was as bright as the lafl, and we Ihould think 
 it a lucky incident were we to lay by in the day, and to travel 
 only by night. At two o'clock in the morning the moon rofe, 
 which was the fignal for us to halt. And much indeed did we 
 fland in need of repofe, after a journey of fuch a continuance. 
 Befides, we luffered greatly from the uneafy motion of the ca- 
 mels, which nothing but habit could reconcile to a man. For 
 my own part, I am fo particularly aggrieved by the faddle of the 
 camel on which I ride, that the fmall of my back is Uripped of 
 its fkin. This arifes from my flill being furnifhed with a bag- 
 gage-beaft, notwithftanding the fine promifes of the young lliaik. 
 Authors are much miftaken in their particular ideas of this ani- 
 lo mal.
 
 [ i67 ] 
 
 mal. His being able to go from i oo to 1 50 miles in the twenty-four 
 hours, is a very fable. Perfeverance and hardinefs are the qua- 
 lities which diftinguifli him above all other quadrupeds, and pe- 
 culiarly adapt hihi to the barren countries, where he is found in 
 the moil vigorous ftate. His common pace does not exceed 
 three miles an hour, at which rate he will go fixteen hours out of 
 the twenty-four, for a journey of a month and upwards. But put 
 him beyond his ufual fpeed, and he foon tires. For a day indeed it 
 may be quickened to five, and even fix miles an hour ; but he 
 fliortly grows obftinate, and refufes to proceed at a rate fo dif- 
 proportioned to his abilities. He is however very docile, and 
 when trained to a caravan, requires neither a rein to guide, nor a 
 whip to forward his motions. To a ftranger nothing can be fo 
 ineligible as this mode of traveUing ; tedious and fatiguing to the 
 laft degree, and efpecially in thefe parts, where we could not pro- 
 vide ourfelves with litters, to defend us from the fcorching rays 
 of the fun. Our courfe yefterday and to-day was generally to 
 the northward of weft, and fometimes weft and by fouth, and due 
 v^^eft. The laft ftage was feven hours, or eighteen miles, and by 
 our reckoning we are nov/ feventy miles diftant from Cofire. 
 
 V/ E D N E S D A Y, 30th Jult. 
 
 At five o'clock this morning we were wakened from our fleep, 
 which had been very found, notwithftanding the fufpicious com- 
 pany we are in. We got up more alTured of the good faith of 
 our conduftor, feeing that no attempts had been made to furprize 
 lis, at a feafon when exhaufted nature had left us at his mercy. 
 At a moment of fuch alarm, there was fomethiug particularly 
 aggravating in our fituation. Worn out vv^ith the labors we had 
 undergone. Deep infenfibly ftole upon the moft determined eye; 
 and the common fatisfaftion of keeping a watch at leaft upon tlie 
 
 motion
 
 [ i68 ] 
 
 motions of an enemy, was denied us. Short as our nap was, it 
 -gave us fpirits to purfue our journey. But this might not long 
 have proved the cafe, if we were to obtain but two hours repofe 
 out of the twenty-four, in travelling to any confiderable diftance. 
 
 Before we had gone far, my European companions and my- 
 felf began to find our bowels greatly afFecled by the water which 
 we got yefterday. This, at all times, is an alarming complaint ; 
 and nothing but our fuppofed vicinity to Ghinnah, could have 
 adminiftered confolation to our diftrefs. We entered, after an 
 hour's march, upon a large plain, fterile and flony like the moun- 
 tains which we now left behind us. It is a circumftance worthy 
 of remark, that we never crofTed any confiderable acclivity in 
 our paflage through this defart ; though at every point of view, 
 the traveller fuppofes he has a laborious height to afcend, and 
 that he muft make his way good, by conquering the ftupendous 
 precipices which continually prefent themfelves before him. But 
 indulgent nature has accommodated the country to the neceflities 
 of the native. Throughout the hilly region, which extends it- 
 felf from the Red- Sea to the Nile, fhe has fcooped out a line of 
 vallies for the paflage of the caravan. The foil is a mixture of 
 flone and fand, which, beaten down by the conftant tread of 
 the fplay-footed camel for many centuries paft, affords an even 
 and firm pavement to the beafts that travel over it. The road is 
 wide enough in feme places for an army to pafs in a line ; and 
 in others, will not admit above two or three camels abreafl:. 
 
 This country muft have experienced a fad reverfe, were it ever 
 fo fruitful as the antients have reprefented it. For the laft fifty 
 miles we have not met with any tree but the hawthorn, or any 
 verdure but what the fweet-fcented fhrubs faintly afford the 
 fight ; and now that we are within a few leagues of the Nile, 
 the profpcct is not mended for the better. At eleven o'clock we 
 halted under a fpreading hawthorn to breakfaft ; but had not as 
 3 yet
 
 [ 1^9 ) 
 
 y€t a gllmpfe of the Nile, or any token of our being in the 
 neighborhood of fo fine a river. The laft ftage was fix hours, or 
 fifteen miles. Here, to our great aftonifliment, we found that our 
 water was expended. This muft have been owing, as much to 
 thefts in the night, as to the impudence of the camel-drivers, who, 
 as we go along, draw water from our fkins in defpite of us, 
 though depending from the beafts on which we ride. The info- 
 lence of this tribe is furprifing. Though their camels are hired 
 by us, they pretend to a right of mounting them themfelves, 
 when they are weary of walking. Thus, do the poor baggage- 
 beafts groan, at times, under the additional burden of a man's 
 weight. It was as much as I could do to keep my camel-driver 
 from getting up behind me j and my friend, the major, was not 
 fo fortunate, whofe driver once effe6led a feat on his camel, in 
 defiance of his remonftrances, and threats, to deter him from 
 iuch a piece of afiTurance. 
 
 At one o'clock, the young fhaik moved forward, to procure 
 lis a fupply of water from fome fprings which lie out of the road ; 
 and we propofed to remain here during the heat of the day. But 
 we prefently difcovered fomething that made us haflen our depar- 
 ture. There was a certain Arab, whom I have already mentioned 
 to have rendered himfelf very difagreeable to us, during our 
 abode at Cofire. This fellow had been appointed by the lliaik 
 as one of our guard ; and was at this very time under the fliade 
 with us. By his afllduity on the road, he had tried to efface the 
 unfavorable idea we bad of him ; and as our friend, he now in- 
 finuated to us, that it was better for us not to truft ourfelves at 
 Ghinnah, where the inhabitants were profefied rogues, and 
 would plunder our efFe6ts. Nay, he went fo far. as to propofq 
 to condu6l us to Banute j a town a few hours higher up the 
 river, where he could enfure us the beft reception, and a choice 
 of boats to tranfport us to Cairo, This circumftance was too 
 
 Z barefaced
 
 [ 170 ] 
 
 barefaced not to alarm us, and we determined to pufii on, 
 through an almoft infupportable heat. But our conduflor was 
 abfent, and we were left in the hands of our gtiard and the ca- 
 mel-drivers ; a force which indeed we did not fear, but would 
 have been glad to be quit of in a folitary and inimical place. 
 This refolution was confirmed by Abdul Ruflar, our Arabian 
 fervant, who was entitled to credit from his paft behavior. He 
 advifed us by no means to liften to, or remain with thefe rafcals; 
 but to follow the young fhaik, whom they had the confidence to 
 tell us was a foolidi youth, who did not know our interefts. Ac- 
 cordingly, at two o'clock, we mounted our camels, in fpite of 
 their importunities to wait until the evening, and moved on, in 
 the moft fultry day I had ever felt in the Eaft. We foon re- 
 joined the merchant's camels, which had taken fhelter under a 
 thorn-tree at fome diftance, and were ready to attend us. While 
 united with this body, we did not fear going aftray ; and purfued 
 our coui'fe, under a full fecurity of being on the road to Ghin- 
 nah. We had no water, but what our earthen guglets contained ; 
 and this was foon expended. It is impoflible to defcribe what 
 we fuffered from heat and thirft during this ftage. A mouthful 
 or two of dirty water, which one of our guai'ds gave me, made 
 me forget for the moment his recent infolence ; and all our for- 
 mer apprehenfions were infenfibly fvvallowed up in the more 
 painful idea of falling viftims to thirft. Our tongues actually 
 became parched to our palates ; and we were obliged to wet them 
 every now and then, with fpirituous liquors, to prevent fufFoca- 
 tion from the clouds of duft which continual whirlwinds threw' 
 around us. This expedient was but tranfitory, and ferved in- 
 deed to encreafe the rage of thirft. It was our common mif- 
 fortune alfo to labor under a violent complaint in our bowels j 
 and to the want of the bad water that occafioned it — a want 
 which we had lamented in the moft eameft manner — our pre- 
 
 fervatian
 
 [ 171 I 
 
 fervatlon was probably' owing. I was fo afflided myfelf with this 
 diforder, that i could fcarcely fit my camel through excefs of pain. 
 The wind and duft had equally afFedled our fight, fo that we wan- 
 dered on in agony and darknefs. There is no doubt that our 
 Arabian companions partook in fome meafure of our fufFerings ; 
 but they were too much accuftomed to the fun, to feel all the ef- 
 fefls of his fury ; and we had fome reafon to fufpeft, that their 
 ftock of water lafted long after ours had failed us. To crown this 
 Icene of diflrefs, we at length overtook the fliaik, who, we learnt, 
 had been difappointed in replenifhing his fkins, by the appearance 
 of wild Arabs about the fprings. This news founded like the 
 knell of death in our ears ; not from the neighborhood of thefe 
 robbers, who were once fo formidable to our fears, but from the 
 abfence of a fluid, on which we fuppofed our lives to depend. 
 Faint and fpiritlefs, therefore, we toiled on until eight o'clock at 
 night, when we halted, without having encountered any foe in 
 the way. But far different was this halting-place from any other 
 we had come to. Without a draught of water to moiflen our 
 throats, it was impra6licable to force down a morfel of bread ; 
 and the pain and wearinefs under which our bodies labored, were 
 too extreme to admit of a momentary repofe. Overwhelmed with 
 hunger, thirfl, and fatigue, we fat ourfelves upon tiie ground, 
 and revolved our melancholy fituation in filence. Every fkin was 
 alternately ranfacked by us for water, and not an article left un- 
 tried that was likely to produce the leafl moiflure. My compa- 
 nions and I had unluckily recourfe to raw onions, which were 
 among the baggage. But no fooner had we tafted of this potent 
 root, than we repented of our raflinefs. The effect was quite con- 
 trary to our hopes ; and our drought was irritated to the highefl 
 degree. This flage was fix hours, or fifteen miles. 
 
 At nine o'clock the word was given to refume our march. The 
 doubtful light of the ftars, and the evils we endured, prevented 
 
 Z 2 our
 
 t 172 1 
 
 bur feeing clearly what was going forward. But our Arab fer- 
 vant foon alarmed us with the inteUigence of our having-left the 
 merchant's camels upon the ground ; and by fome words which, 
 the drivers had let drop in his hearing, that they had but a bad 
 opinion of the fhaik's intentions refpecling us. The fcene was 
 now become very critical, and a cataftrophe not very happy, 
 appeared likely to enfue. We rode up immediately in a body to 
 our fraudulent conductor, and charged him with treachery to» 
 Wards us. We inftanced his firft having parted company with, 
 the caravan, and then with the merchant's camels, which being 
 both bound for Ghinnah, plainly indicated his unfriendly defiga 
 of canying us to another place. To our great furprize, he ac- 
 knowledged the charge of deceit towards us.in this particular, but 
 endeavoured to diveft it of any fuiifter motives. That it was his 
 father's opinion, as well as his own, that our departure might 
 be retarded at fuch a city as Ghinnah, from the rumor of 
 our riches, which would induce the officers of government to vi- 
 fit our baggage. That he had it in command from him to leave 
 the caravan at the firft ftage, and to cany us by another route, 
 without awakening our fufpicions, which he muft confefs his 
 countrymen had given too much caufe to be directed againft them. 
 That the merchant's camels, from which we had juft parted, 
 would reach Ghinnah m a few hours ; and that we fliould arrive 
 about the fame time at Banute, a village fomewhat higher up 
 the Nile, where we might embark fecretly, and without moleftar 
 tion for Cairo. There was fomething as plaufibie in the fub- 
 ftauce of this defence, as engaging in the delivery of it. That 
 eoolnefs of temper, and ready eloquence, for which the Orientals 
 are fo confpicuous, were fully exerted on this occafion. From 
 the former declarations of our guard, and the prcfent confeflion 
 of the fhaik, we were aiTured there was a combination againft us ; 
 but whether it had any ill tendency, we could not fo eafily deter- 
 mine.
 
 f ^7^ ] 
 
 mirie. In truth, we Were now in the power of our guides, and 
 our deliberations could only terminate in a refolution, to fell our 
 lives as dearly as poffible, fhould they attempt to play us falfe. 
 
 There was but little variety in the fcene during the remaindei' 
 of this ftage. The night was too dark to favor our obfervation 
 of the objects around us, if our misfortunes had not extinguiftied 
 every fpark of curiofity within our breafts. Hour fucceeded hoiu', 
 without a veftige of fertility appearing, to announce a fpeedy pe- 
 riod to our troubles ; and we were almoft funk into a fit of de- 
 fpair, when the fight of a camel, bearing two fkins of water, raif- 
 ed us in a moment to the pinnacle of joy ! Colors would be faint 
 to exprefs the tranfports of wretches half-dead like us of thiifl, at 
 fuch a change 1 We owed this fupply to the good-nature of the 
 fhaik, who puflied on before us to the river, to relieve our diftrefs ; 
 and I muft do him.the juftice to own, that no fervice could have 
 been more material than what he rendered us on this occafion. 
 Nor did.it pafs unrewarded. It reftored him to our good graces, 
 and we renewed our promife of an handfome donation on his 
 putting us into a boat. Before I ventured to diink, I had the 
 precaution to wafh my mouth, and to gargle my throat feveral 
 times. I recommended the fame method to my companions, and" 
 I: do not believe it was unferviceable, as the extreme drynefs of 
 our palates would otherwife have obliged us to fwallow a quantity 
 that might have proved fatal to us. But ftill we drank with great 
 eagernefs and pleafure. And it is not to be wondered atj conlider- 
 ing the goodnefs of the water, and our long abftinence. We were 
 now within a mile of the Nile, and at three o'clock arrived at a 
 village compofed of tents and huts. We made no difturbance in 
 unlading our baggage, and having flretched our carpets upon the 
 ground, betook ourfelves to a fliort, though found, repofe. The 
 lafl ftage was fix hours, or fifteen miles ; fo that we travelled yef- 
 terday no lefs than eighteen hours, or forty-five miles ; an amaz- 
 
 ing
 
 Ing ftretch, if our calamitous fituation be confidered. This 
 part of tlie^Ni4e-, hy our reckoning, lies 115 iniles to the weft 
 of Gbfire. 
 
 THURSDAY, 31ft July. 
 
 We awoke this morning long after the fun had rifen, and, upon 
 looking around us, had the pleafure of feeing the Nile, which 
 now began to be gilded with his early beams. We'v^'^re tiear a 
 ■quarter of a mile from the river, and could only obtain a view of 
 the water through different openings in the bank. Here the bor- 
 ders are adorned in fevera4 places with the date and other fruit- 
 trees J though the cotintry around wears the fame dreary afpefl 
 as before. In one of thefe verdant fpots lies the village of Banute ; 
 the place we are in, being lonely and uncultivated, and confiding 
 of a clufter of cottages, the property of fome camel- drivers. No- 
 tliing can more evince the magnificence of this celebrated river, 
 than its breadth at this diftance from the fea. It appears to our 
 eye not much lefs than a mile wide ; though, with its windings, 
 it cannot run acourfe of lefs than 700 miles, from its leaving Ba- 
 hilte, until it difcharges itfelf into the Mediterranean. 
 
 The young fliaik was abfent fome hours, and brought us the 
 difagreeable tidings, that no boat could be procured in this neigh- 
 bjrhood. We were now reduced to the indifpenfable neceffity of 
 leeking one at Ghinnah ; and the fhaik left us, to get frefli camels 
 to carry us to that city. We are again inclined to doubt the er- 
 rand on which \^'e came here ; but whatever may have been the 
 view of our conduclor and his aifociates, a folution of their odd 
 conduft cannot be very remote. While our patience is thus ex- 
 ercifed in refpeft to our mhids, it is not lefs fo in a cafe of equal 
 importance to our bodies. Though we have fafted, in a manner, 
 for three days paft, we are afraid to fend to Banute for a fupply of 
 
 1 meat
 
 [ 175 1 
 
 meat and fruit : the inhabitants, we learn, are impudent beggars, 
 who would not wait our beftowing alms upon them, (hould they 
 happen to be apprifed of our fmall number. A pretty fpecimen, 
 indeed, of a place which has been recommended to us by our 
 guard ! But the humble diftance which the fliaik keeps, fhews 
 plainly his opinion of it. A pair of pigeons which this place af- 
 forded, ferved julf to allay the appetites of our company; and as 
 we had no money at hand, the (haik lent us a couple of dollars to 
 pay for them and fome dried dates, which we took with us to eat 
 ijpon the road. \ 
 
 At three o'clock , in tlie afternoon we quitted this miferable 
 village, and fet out for Ghinnah, in tolerable health and fpirits. 
 Whether we owe ovir recovery to the falubrious water of the 
 Nile, or to a ceflktion of fatigue for the laft twelve hours, we 
 arofe this morning with a perfect freedom from our late com- 
 plaint. Our faces were now turned to the north, and we went for 
 the moll part of this ftage in the fame direction. This was no 
 unpleafmg circumftance, as we thereby prefented our backs to 
 the fun, which had fo dreadfully annoyed us yefterday. At four 
 we entered a fandy valley, where we faw an herd of deer. When 
 we mounted the hills beyond it, we had a glance, for the firft 
 time, of a cultivated country. The Nile appeared about two 
 miles to the weilward, wailiing the foot of the mountains by 
 which it is fkirted on that fide. To the eaftward, the whole 
 fpaee between us was laid out in plantations of grain, which 
 were watered by inlets from the river. There was as extraor- 
 dinary a contrail in the profpe6l before us, as could pofiibly 
 occur in the wantonnefs of nature. The fcene to our left, ver- 
 dant, and crouded with clumps of ilately trees, which were 
 bounded by a fine river ; while that to the right was barren as 
 before, and offered nothing but fands and ilony mountains to 
 the eye. 
 
 Ouj*
 
 t 176 1 
 
 Our company was reduced by the abfen<:e of our guard, who 
 had got the flart of us on the road by the. (haik's orders, fo that 
 we could not mufter above ten camels, had we been in the way 
 of danger. At five o'clock we palled by the ruins of a large 
 village, which our guides tell us has long been abandoned, on 
 account of robbers, who were continually plundering the pro- 
 perty of ;the inhabitants. Here we were alfo deferted by the 
 fliaik, who gave us notice of his intention to pufti on to the 
 city, to prepare an houfe for our reception. He aflured us, that 
 he could anfwer for our fafety on the road, and at Ghinnah, 
 where he would introduce us under cover of the night, and pre- 
 vioully provide for our embarkation. Whatever relu6lance we 
 might have towards this ftep, it was impoffible to fruftrate it, 
 and he put his camel on at fuch a trot, as made us lofe fight of 
 him prefently. We were even worfe provided with cattle than 
 before, and on ^ur endeavoring to mend their pace to keep up 
 with the fliaik, we received remonftranees from the owner againft 
 hurrying his camels. This fellow attended us, and was as 
 furly a dog as I ever met with in my life. When he found 
 that my companions and I paid little regai'd to his words, he 
 had the impudence to make Abdul Ruffar, our Arab fer\'ant, 
 and the poor Hindoo, alight, and trudge along on foot, under 
 pretence that the beafts they rode, were overladen. When we 
 were apprized of this circumftance, we rated the owner foundly 
 for his uifolence. But he remained inflexible, and I know not 
 to what a pitch our difference would have arifen, if Abdul Ruf- 
 far had not wifely urged us to acquiefce in a thing, which he 
 now pretended was a matter of choice. He had great merit for 
 his prudent interference, at a time when we were about to for- 
 get the reftraint we were under in this Mahometan region. And 
 happy would it have been for the Fakeer, if he could have 
 yielded to circumftances with equal temper. But his fpirit was 
 
 7 fo
 
 [ 177 ] 
 
 fo wounded at the indignity which had been offered him, that 
 he took the firft opportunity of remounting his camel, unob- 
 ferved by the owner. We were at this junilure fome hundreds 
 of yards ahead, and were not a Httle furprized to hear the moll 
 lamentable outcries in our rear. Thefe proceeded from the un- 
 fortunate Fakeer, whom we beheld under the difcipline of the 
 Arab's flick, but urging his beaft forwards, without betraying the 
 leaft defign towards quitting his feat. As we approached him, 
 his confidence feemed to redouble, and he began to pour forth 
 the vileft abufe on his antagonill in the Moor language. It was 
 perhaps conducive to his fafety, that the Arab did not under- 
 ftand him, who, at our inftance, not only defifted from the affault, 
 but left him in quiet poffeffion of the camel. This fo elevated 
 the fpirits of tlie Hindoo, that giving more credit to his own vo- 
 ciferation than to our fupport, he defcanted largely on his own 
 courage and rank in life, which he averred was formerly a Sube- 
 dar, or commander of Sepoys in the Engliih fervice. As this 
 man had hitherto kept a centinel on his lips, we did not regret the 
 rude manner in which they had been put off their guard ; as the 
 many ftories which now fell from them, ferved, in fome meafure, 
 to banilh painful reflexions. But, indeed, the fcene v^hich now 
 difclofed itfelf, quickly abforbed our attention. After a fix months 
 confinement in a fliip, and in barren countries, it was not with- 
 out an exquifite fatisfa6lion that I beheld the earth cloathed again 
 in green, and adorned with her faireft ornaments of wood and 
 water. The captive, who has long pined in a gloomy dungeon, 
 could not experience more joyful emotions at the fight of day, 
 than animated me on this occafion. I looked about me with fen- 
 fations unknown before. I called to my camel-driver to gather 
 every bloffom that the bullies afforded, which my imagination 
 fupplied with fragrance ; and this part of the Nile, which would 
 appear contemptible when "oppofed to the rudeft banks of the 
 
 A a Thames,
 
 [ I7S ] 
 Thames, was to mc fraught with numberlefs beauties. We now, 
 for the fuft time on our journey, beheld the marks of agricul- 
 ture. The people were in fome places tending their cattle, and 
 in others following the plough. The river difcovered itfelf at va- 
 rious breaches in the banks, about two miles to our left ; and we 
 faw wells that were worked by * pacotahs, as in India. Water- 
 channels now interfe^led the road, to fupply the country to the 
 risrht of us, which here besran to be cultivated. At thefe channels 
 our poor camels halted, and drank with the eagernefs and perfe- 
 verance of creatures unaccuftomed to quench the heavieft call of 
 nature, which I may fafely pronounce to be thirfl. I can truly 
 fay, that, during the laft three days, I have not eat an ounce. 
 Meat we had not, and I could never get down above a mouthful 
 or two of bread. My companions were nearly in the fame fitua- 
 tion ; which can only be attributed to our ftomachs having been 
 overcharged with the quantities of water, which the heat andduft 
 obliged us to fwallovv. 
 
 Between the time of our feeing the ruined village and fun-fet, 
 we counted not lefs than a dozen defolated towns, which we were 
 given to underftand had been unpeopled on the fame account : 
 fome large, and the houfes ftill {landing ; and others defended by 
 walls and towers, whofe remains are ftill refpeftable. Were a 
 traveller allowed to indulge a conje6lure on a curfory view of 
 things, I fliould rather fufpe6l that thefe ruins were of far greater 
 antiquity than the modern inhabitants of Egypt imagine; and that 
 time, the grand deftroyer of all human fyftems, had depopulated 
 thefe parts, and not the dread of the roving Arabs. When the 
 
 • A,pacotah is a machine of a very fimple conftruftion. By the means of a long 
 bamboo, fixed acrofs a maft, a fingle man will raife water from the depth of ten or 
 twelve feet, by walking up and down the bamboo. During this leifure movement, the 
 man above encourages himfelf with a fong, in which he is accompanied by his fellow, 
 vho flays below, to diftribute the water as it comes up in the bucket. 
 
 Saracens
 
 I ^79 ] 
 
 Saracens over-ran Egypt, whole cities muft have yielded to the 
 deftraflive tide ; and while the bloody conteft fubfifted between 
 them and the Turks, the reft were involved in the general wreck 
 of this country's grandeur. I particularly remarked the ruins of 
 one town, fituated on two hills to the right of the road, and join- 
 ed together by a wall which runs acrofs the valley. The front of 
 this town ftili extends itfelf a mile, and its towers and hum- 
 mums, which are of ftone, are many of them in tolerable repair. 
 Our guides had, indeed, names for this, as well as fome of the 
 reft of thefe places ; but being of Arab derivation, they could 
 throw no light on the fubje6l of our enquiry. 
 
 The night was very bright, from the countlefs hoft of ftars 
 which are wont to lliine with unclouded luftre in this ferene he- 
 milplieie, A full hour before we reached Ghinnah, we left our 
 northern dire6lion, and travelled due weft. The many gardens 
 and plantations that we pafted, announced our vicinity to the 
 city, where we arrived at nine o'clock. At our entrance we went 
 by a large mofque, which was illuminated, and full of people, who 
 were attending divine fervice. We faw many good houfes and 
 ftreets, before we reached the lodgings that had been provided for 
 us. Here we were houfed at half paft nine, without having met 
 with any adventure that could tend to a difcoveryof ourperfons. 
 The manfion feems large and commodious, and belongs to the 
 merchant whofe camels accompanied us the greateft part of the 
 way. He welcomed us with great cordiality, and, having feen our 
 baggage carried up ftairs, lighted us himfelf to our apartment, 
 where fome new bread and frefh dates were ferved up to us. Dur- 
 ing our repaft the merchant Mahomet, his brother Ally, and the 
 Ihaik, attemled us, and on their wifhing us a good night, we remind- 
 ed them of our anxiety to be gone. The laft ftage was fix hours, or 
 fifteen miles, fo that we have come 130 miles fmcewe leftCofire,. 
 though the dired diftance muft fall fomewhat ftiort of that 
 
 A a 2 number.
 
 [ i8o ] 
 
 number. While we were going to bed, we were thrown into fome 
 confufion by Major Alexander mifllng his Indian fabre. The bag- 
 gage was rummaged for it in vain ; fo that we were obliged to call 
 up our hoft to lay the complaint before him. The major now re- 
 membered having left it below ftairs, and, as it could not be 
 found, the fufpicions of our hoft immediately fell upon the fol- 
 dier, who had been fo long the objefl of our averfion. This fol- 
 dier he now fallied forth at this late hour to feek j and bidding 
 the major to be of good cheer, alTured him that the fword fliould 
 be recovered, if ftill within the precin6ls of the city. 
 
 FRIDAY, ift August. 
 
 I awoke at day- break to-day after a very found repofe. One 
 night's] reft had perfe6lly reftored me to myfelf, if I may ex- 
 cept a languor upon my limbs, which fo laborious a journey 
 might occafion to a conftitution that is none of the ftrongeft. 
 "When I had got on my Arabian habit, I perceived a pair of ftairs 
 that led to the top of the houfe. As I conceived myfelf to be fuf- 
 ficiently difguifed, I made no fcruple to afcend them, in order to 
 take a view of the city. Ghinnah, or Cana, as the antients called 
 it, is pleafantly fituated on the eaftern banks of the Nile, in that 
 <liftri(5l which is known by the name of Upper Egypt. By our 
 niceft obfervation of its bearing from Cofire, it lies in the latitude 
 26° 40' N. which brings it confiderably lower down the river than 
 we find it, either in the old or modern maps. Its length extends 
 from eaft to weft, and its principal ftreets run in a parallel line, 
 and afcend by a gentle acclivity from the river to the center 
 of the city. This fituation feems adapted to the neighbor- 
 hood of the Nile, which, in the time of the floods, muft lay the 
 adjacent parts under water. Its appearance is truly romantic, as 
 every houfe is furrounded with an inclofure, and partly concealed 
 
 9 from
 
 [ i8i ] 
 
 from view by the lofty date-trees, that every here and there 
 mingle their tufted heads with the fpiral mofques and fwelling 
 domes, as if ambitious to rival their proudeft heights. I was pro- 
 ceeding in my obfervations, when our hoft came up to bid us 
 good-morrow, and hearing that I was above, he called to me in 
 hafle to defcend. I was rather furprized at this abrupt com- 
 mand ; but when he pointed out the offence which his neighbors 
 might take at having their women overlooked, I bore with the 
 reproof, though my curio fity had not been awakened from that 
 quarter. I was well acquainted with the jealoufy of the Maho- 
 metans in this particular -, and therefore did not confider the con- 
 du6l of our hoft as any way unreafonable. To the great fatis- 
 faftion of the major, he produced the fword, which he declared 
 had been taken on the thief he mentioned. He demanded, how- 
 ever, eight dollars for the hire of two men, who had affiiled him 
 in the purfuit of the foldier fome miks from the town. The mo- 
 ney was paid to him without hefitation, as the weapon was of va- 
 lue to the owner ; but our ideas of the juftice which prevails here, 
 became very unfavorable, when we underftood that the lofs of 
 his plunder was the only punifhment which the knave was likely 
 to experience. 
 
 We feafted this morning at breakfaft on cow's milk, to which 
 we have been long ftrangers, and on the firft good bread we have 
 tafted in Egypt. Indeed, we learn, that this place is plentifully 
 fupplied with every neceffaiy of life, fituated in a ferene climate, 
 and far removed from the turbulence and intrigues of the capital 
 we are haftening to. A pifture, pretty in fpeculation, and what 
 we flatter ourfelves we fhall find juft in the practice. The fhaik 
 and our hoft joined us at our coffee, and we expe6ted to have 
 heard fomething of the boat ; but their errand was to get fuch 
 prefents for the camel-drivers and guard, as are ufual for travel- 
 lers to give. We were content to be quk of them for a dollar 
 
 each ;
 
 [ l82 ] 
 
 each ; though it went not a little again ft our inclination to in- 
 clude the roguifli foldier among the number. Scarce had they left 
 us, when we had a vifit from the guard themfelves. The offender 
 came without a blufli into our prefence, and had the effrontery 
 to make a j eft of taking the fword, which he pretended he only 
 meant to have kept as a pledge, for the prefent that was due to 
 his comrade and himfelf. He added, that they were now come 
 for that prefent, which they had fo juftly deferved at our hands, 
 by the proteftion they had afforded us on the road. We were in- 
 clined enough to have difputed their merits in this cafe, had it not 
 been in the power of thefe fellows to publifh our arrival at Ghin- 
 nah, and expofe us to the rapacity of the government. Their 
 demand, therefore, met with a civiler reception than they expell- 
 ed, and we affured them that it had been already gratified. We 
 were now witnefs to one of the moft ftriking inftances of the un^ 
 licenced tempers of the Arabs that ever occurred in hiftory. For 
 no fooner was the fpokefman certified of the fhaik's having re- 
 ceived his quota, than he caught up his fabre which lay by him 
 on the carpet, and half-drawing it, told us with a refolute air, that 
 if we would difclofe but the fum which the fhaik had prefumed to 
 take without their knowledge, he would force it from his throat 
 with the point of his fword. This language from a foldier, of his 
 fuperior, did not fuit our notions of military difcipline ; and we 
 difpatched Abdul Ruffar to feek for the fliaik, and acquaint 
 him therewith. He foon came, and fuch a fcene paffed between 
 the prince and fubjeft, as bafiies all defcription. An hundred 
 times did they catch up their fabres, and challenge each other to 
 inftant confli£t, and as often did they revile each other in the bit- 
 tereft terms. But our friend had the greateft juftice in his re- 
 proaches, as he ftigmatized the foldier with having betrayed his 
 truft, in refpecl to the major's fword. This breach of truft feem- 
 ed to both of thefe warriors the principal crime in the robbery ; 
 
 and
 
 [ i83 ] 
 
 and the quarrel waxed to fuch a pitch, that finding It imponiblc 
 to foften their fury, we looked to our arms, in order to intimi- 
 date the foldier. His comrade had fneaked off in the beginning of 
 this difpute, and wifely informed the people of the houfe of what 
 was paffing above. This intelligence, together with the noife, 
 brought up the hoft and his family, juft at the nick of time, that 
 our apartment was about to become the fcene of bloodfhed, in a 
 populous and civilized city, on the trifling fubje6l of a few dol- 
 lars ! This company foon accommodated the matter, and the fol- 
 dier was difmiffed, with a promife of obtaining his dividend of the 
 fum in queftion. 
 
 Our diflafte for the people we are among, was fo heightened 
 by this late tranfa6lion, that we now prefTed the fhaik, very feri- 
 oufly, to difcharge the obligation he was under to embark us in a 
 boat for Cairo. We found ourfelves at greater liberty, and un- 
 der lefs apprehenfion, when committed to the wide waves in an 
 Arab boat, than now when we are upon Arab ground ; and I 
 doubt if there was one among us, who would not have under- 
 taken the pilotage of a boat to Cairo, though the current was the 
 only guide he could depend upon, in preference to ftaying at 
 Ghinnah a day longer. The fhaik faw our anxiety, and affured 
 us folemnly of his intention to keep his word, as foon as a boat 
 could be got ready. Our hoft, and his brother Ally, offered to 
 pledge themfelves for the fliaik's fmcerity, and the latter propofed 
 himfelf to accompany us to Cairo. They left us to fit down to a 
 meal of wheat, boiled in mutton-broth, which had been delayed 
 by the flrange bufincfs of the day. 
 
 SATURDAY, 2d August. 
 
 We are doomed to be the fport of fortune, to achieve adven- 
 tures which we never afpired to, and to find our fituation more 
 
 dangerous 
 3
 
 [ i84 ] 
 
 dangerous than ever, at the moment that we are fooliflily expe<5t- 
 ing tlie period of our troubles. Though the night was clofe, and 
 I had not relied well, from the duft which incommoded the terrace 
 we fleep upon, I was up, according to ciiftom, at day-break, and 
 in going down flairs to the back-yard, in order to wafli me, was 
 met by a fervant of the houfe, who took me by the arm, and, with 
 a fignificant geflure, hurried me up again in apparent agitation. 
 When he could make a fhift to explain himfelf, by the means of 
 Ibrahim, we underftood, to our great concern, that the vizier of 
 the city was in the houfe, and locked up in clofe conference with 
 our hod. This early vifit had a very unpromifing appearance, 
 and as we had remained within doors fince our arrival, we attri- 
 buted this difcovery of us, to fome treachery in thofe who were 
 in the fecret. My companions ported themfelves on the flair- 
 head, to learn, if pofTible, what was going forward, and I was 
 ruminating in an inner apartment on the confequences of Arab 
 duplicity, when they came running to me, with an account of 
 the llreet-door being befieged by a body ofhorfe. Our hoil him- 
 felf followed them into the room., and, with the utmofl fliew of 
 terror, defued us to load our fire-arms quickly, and aflifl him to 
 defend the houfe, which he expedted would be afTaulted every mo- 
 ment. It was fome time before we could get him to interpret the 
 meaning of this alarm. We were not a little furprized at lafl to 
 learn, that the horfe at the door belonged to the lliaik of Banute, 
 and were fent with injunflions to carry us before their mafler, 
 who had been apprized of our having pafTed his refidence, with- 
 out paying him the ufual compliment. As improbable as this 
 flory appeared, what impofition was there which could not have 
 been praftifed with fuccefs on people, who were utter flrangers 
 to the cuftoms and language of the country ? We were well in»- 
 formed of the independence of the Arab fliaiks, and their pro- 
 penfity to extort money from travellers -, and though the fending 
 
 aji
 
 [ iS5 ] 
 
 an armed force into a commercial town was incomprehenfible to 
 us, yet we did not know but it might enter into the fyftem of their 
 politics, where one party was fiiperior to another. In order, we 
 fuppofe, to terrify us into their meafures, our hoft told us, that 
 there was no regular government at prefent in Ghinnah ; that 
 every man was the prote6lor of his own houfe, which he would 
 defend, on our account, againft all invaders. From one of our 
 windows, which in this country more refembles a pigeon-hole 
 than any thing elfe, we beheld a number of horfemen, who pa- 
 raded the ftreet, but did not betray any intentions to proceed to 
 violence. On our obferving this matter to our hoft, he pretended 
 that it difcovered an inclination to treat with us ; and immediately 
 went down to the gate, to make, as he faid, the beft terms for us 
 in his power. Thus were we, on a fudden, fhut up in a belea- 
 guered place, and either on the point of being put to the fword, or 
 being obliged to deliver ourfelves up prifoners of war. The caftle 
 was befieged in form, and the treacherous governor about to fore- 
 go his truft. We remained, during this interval, under arms in 
 our apartment, and had centinels ported on the ftairs, to apprize 
 us of any danger. After this farce — for a farce it was, though of 
 a very ferious nature to us — had been kept up for two hours and 
 upwards, our hoft at length came up. He told us, that he had fo 
 far fucceeded, as to get us excufed from our vifit to Banute for a 
 pecuniaiy confideration, and that the fum of 150 dollars would 
 free us from thefe troublefome guefts. From the vizier's vifit, and 
 theftrange conduft of the hoft, wefufpected there was acollufion 
 between tliem and the cavalry at the door, and that we had already 
 fallen within the gripe of the government of Ghinnah. Under 
 this perfuafion we fubmitted with a good grace, to what we judged 
 was unavoidable. We paid down fifty dollars in advance, thougli 
 we loudly protefted againft the impofition, which we declared 
 would leave us aimoft deftitute of money. To moderate ourvexa- 
 
 B b tion.
 
 [ i86 ] 
 
 tion, and to revive the pleafmg ideas of our departure, our hoft 
 veiy artfully fliifted the fubjecl, and reminded us of putting him 
 in cafh for the boat, which the fliaik and his brother wQre gone 
 in purfuit of. His demand was forty dollars, which we readi- 
 ly depofited in his hands, on his folemn declaration, that he re- 
 ceived them for the hire of a boat, which ihould be ready for 
 our reception at night. 
 
 In a fliort time after our hoft had left us, he returned to advife 
 us of the vizier's approach, vvlio followed him into our apart- 
 ment, attended by a number of officers of ftate. They came, as 
 they informed us, to enquire into our bufinefs, and our reafons 
 for travelling through their countiy. Tho' they had taken us ra- 
 ther unawares, we put the beft face we could upon the matter, and 
 declared ourfelves travellers, whom ill fortune, and not our own 
 inclinations, had led among them. On their demanding our pafs, 
 we produced the one from the vizier of Yambo; and we thought 
 it fortunate that we could fliew them letters from Captain Bacon, 
 and the fiipercargoes of the fnow Adventure, to Ibrahim Beg, the 
 bey of Cairo, to convince them that our journey was not a fecret 
 to the bey. The vizier put the pafs into his pocket, and we re- 
 marked, that he eyed the letter to the bey with great attention, 
 and whifpered with apparent earneftnefs to fome of his followers 
 before he returned it to us. We gathered the m.oft flattering pre- 
 fages from this incident j and as he had preferved the utmoft po- 
 litenefs and moderation in this interview, we faw the vizier and 
 his train depart, in the fulleft confidence of having found pro- 
 te<S:ion m our letters, againft the government, which were fo well 
 inclined tohaveperfecutedus. 
 
 When thefe people were gone, we partook of arepaft which the 
 family had provided for us. It was fimple, but well-dreft, and 
 confifted of meat and vegetables, both ftewed and roafted. We 
 had not feen the young fliaik all day, and were uneafy at his ab- 
 
 fence.
 
 [ i87 ] 
 
 fence. When he made his appearance, he aflured us that he had 
 been employed in our fervice fmce we faw hhn laft, and that he 
 only wanted the money, to fecure the boat which he had engaged 
 for us. But this information feemed chiefly to be a prelude to 
 his own demands, and we difcovered that he was come, like the 
 reft of his countrymen, for a prefent. Though we had promifed 
 him a gratuity conditionally, yet as we placed too much reliance 
 on the oath of an Arab, we hoped to bind him more ftrongly to us, 
 by an a6l that lavored of confidence, as well as of bounty. Wc 
 therefore preiented him with twenty dollars ; and Mr. Ham.mond 
 gave him a fhaul to which he had taken a liking. He appeared 
 fo much flruck with this generofity, that he fwore by his Pro- 
 phet, he would not leave the houfe until a boat was provided for 
 us. We then fent for our hofl:, with whom we had entrufted the 
 boat-hire; but underftood from him, that he had juft paid it 
 away with the reft of the money to the Banute cavalry, who, on 
 this prompt payment, had relinquifhed their firft demand. Tho' 
 this ftory was rather ftrange, it carried not a fufpicious air on the 
 face of it. We faved fixty dollars by the manceuvre, and readily 
 proffered to advance the boat-hire anew. A reys, or nokidah, ac- 
 companied the hoft, who, after fome altercation, agreed to let us 
 have a large, commodious boat, to carry us to Cairo, for fifty-five 
 dollars. As the price was confiderably increafed, we afFe6led to 
 run fliort of cafh, in hopes to imprefs them with a notion of our 
 being too poor to be worth detaining. Accordingly we produced 
 feveral Indian coins, both of gold and filver, which we delired 
 might be weighed, to make up the fum. Though we let them un-, 
 derfliand that thefe were pocket-pieces, which we had preferved 
 through curiofity, I fear this expedient was the means of awak- 
 ening the avarice of thefe robbers, and teaching them to expe61: a 
 hoard of this treafure. On receiving the amount, with five dol- 
 lars befides, to provide bread and two or three flieep for the 
 
 B b 2 voyage.
 
 [ i28 ] 
 
 voyage, the fiiaik, our hoft, and the nokldah, fv/ore in conjunc- 
 tion to the immediate performance of the treaty. But they think, 
 as the poet fays of lovers, that ♦' Jove laughs at Arab perjuries," 
 and they can fwallow the moft facred oaths, without the fmalleft 
 intention to keep them. And this we found more ftrongly veri- 
 fied than ever. 
 
 On the faith of their promifes we had packed up our baggage, 
 and difpofed ourfelves for our removal. Nine o'clock was the ap- 
 pointed hour, and we waited for it with all tlie impatience of a 
 bridegroom, who looks forward to the moment which is to 
 crown his fondeft wifhes. But our watches announced the hour, 
 and no Arabs appeared. We, however, accounted eafily for the 
 delay j efpecially as the natives muft find it difficult to afcertain 
 time, in a country where clocks and watches are unknown. Ten 
 o'clock came, and brought no intelligence of them. Our fufpence 
 now began to be cruel ; and we fent Abdul Ruflar down flairs, 
 to enquire what was become of the hofl and his companions. He 
 returned without having obtained any other tidings, than their 
 being flill abroad. It is impoOible to give the reader an idea of 
 our fituation during this intei"val. We were alTembled on a ter- 
 race that was open to the air, and had no other light than what 
 the flrars afforded us. The v?orfl interpretation was put upon 
 their abfence, by fome of our company. Ibrahim began to de- 
 fpaii'j and Abdul RufTar hi mfelf could not account for the con- 
 duft of his countrymen. Tired out with fruitlefs expe6lation, 
 we ftretched ourfelves upon our carpets, and endeavored to com- 
 pofe ourfelves to reft. In the midfl of our difordered flumbers, 
 we were fuddenly alarmed, about midnight, by a noife at the out- 
 ward gate of the houfe. We heard the door open, and the found 
 of a man's feet haflily afcend the flairs. Hope hung upon his 
 fteps; and when we beheld our hofl enter with a light in his hand, 
 we called out, as if with one voice, that we were ready to attend 
 
 hini.
 
 [ iS9 ] 
 
 him. Jvidge ye, who have ever experienced the fallacy of appear- 
 ances in matters nearefl: to the heart — judge of our emotions, 
 when we found, that, inftead of a boat being in readinefs to carry 
 us away, the vizier and his train were below ! The late hour, 
 our recent difappointment, and the furprize which this news 
 threw us into, operated together to render us very unfit to re- 
 ceive thefe unwelcome vifitants. But we had not even time to 
 enquire into the meaning of this intrufion, when the vizier en- 
 tered. He was accompanied by all the officers who were with 
 him in the morning ; but his retinue was now enlarged by a 
 number of foldiers, each of whom bore a torch in his hand. They 
 feated themfelves, without waiting to be afked, on the carpets. 
 which we had rifen from ; and calling for our interpreter, the vi- 
 zier defired him to tell us, that he was come to levy a duty on the 
 goods and jewels that we had with us : that he and the council 
 of flate had formed a refolution to demand no more than 4,000 
 dollars ; and if we refufed to pay fo moderate a fum, they muft 
 fend us to their mafter, the Shaik-Ul-Arab, who was then on the 
 frontiers of his dominions, to anfvver for our refufal. The exor- 
 bitancy of the demand made us treat it in a light manner ; and as 
 to our taking another journey upon camels, we declared it was 
 better to die here, than to fall a facrifice to the fatigues of the Ara- 
 bian method of travelling. We told them our baggage lay ready 
 for their infpeclion, and they might foon fatisfy themfelves of 
 our poverty. Whether this confident behavior imprefied them 
 with an idea of our fmcerity, or that their defigns were not ripe 
 for execution, we cannot pronounce ; but the vizier declined the 
 fearch. He however politely infinuated, that a fliaul or two would 
 be very acceptable to him. I had two fine ones belonging to my 
 Turkifli drefs, which had ftood me in 100 dollars. Thefe I pro- 
 duced without hefitation, tho' I declared truly they were all I had, 
 when I prefented them to the vizier. On receiving them, the mi- 
 
 nifter 
 9
 
 [ 190 ] 
 
 nifter begged us to be eafy, as he now confidered us to be under 
 his protection, and would give us a pafs in the morning for our 
 fafety down the river. When he had taken his leave, we re- 
 proached our hoft for the failure of his word. But he fliifted the 
 blame from himfelf to the vizier, who, he affured us, had put a 
 flop to our voyage for this night. He repeated his former afTer- 
 tions, that the boat was ready for our reception. In fliort, he 
 drew fo flattering a pidure of the vizier's good intentions towards 
 us, and exprefled fuch a zeal for our fervice, that he obtained his 
 ends of getting a fhaul himfelf from Major Alexander, and of lull- 
 ing us once more into a tranfient fecurity. 
 
 SUNDAY, 3d August. 
 
 The morning came, only to furnifli us with frefli inftances of 
 the perfidy of thefe people. Inftead of the vizier's pafs, or any 
 figns of our departure, we were left to our own reflections, and 
 we faw nothing of the young fliaik, of our hofl:, or of his brother. 
 Nay, to fuch a pitch was their neglefl carried, that at noon we 
 found there was no dinner provided for us in the houfe. In this 
 embarrafTment we fent out Abdul Ruffar to purchafe us fome pro- 
 vifion ; and as we underllood the city abounded with Chriftiaii 
 merchants, we direCled him to apply to them for their opinion of 
 our detention, and for their advice and affiftance on this alarming 
 occafion. Too flrid a watch was kept upon the motions of Ibra- 
 him, to admit of his negotiating fuch a matter for us. It was 
 rarely that he was fuffered to ftir out of doors, under pretence that 
 the people of Banute were once more in fearch of us, to tax us in 
 another prefent -, and when this liberty was allowed him, he was 
 attended by the hoft, or fome of the family. We were yet in the 
 dark, therefore, in refpeCt to the form and nature of the govern- 
 ment under whofe extortions we groaned. But we gave the ab- 
 
 fent
 
 [ 191 ] 
 
 fcnt prince, whoever he might be, fall credit for a principal fhare 
 in our fufferings. 
 
 In about an hour's time our faithful domeftic returned, with 
 a couple of fowls and fome greens, which he immediately fet 
 about to drefs for us. But, to our great concern, he had met with 
 no fuccefs in the more material part of his errand. No admittance 
 had been given him at the Chriftian houfes, becaufe it was the 
 hour of dinner ; an hour facred to privacy among the Oriental 
 nations. While we were waiting for our humble repaft, we were 
 not a little furprized at the fight of the vizier, who came to pay 
 us a vifit, attended only by his fervants, who remained below. It 
 was about two o'clock, and long paft his time of dining. Never- 
 thelefs, on our vidluals appearing, he fat down to a lingle difh 
 with us, and partook with much feeming fatisfa6lion of the fare 
 which was put before him. He called for fpirits, which he jocofe- 
 ly faid the Chriftians were the moft choice in, and drank feveral 
 coffee-cups of rum, both during and after our meal. The vizier's 
 name is Mahmoud. He is a young man of about thirty years of 
 age, tall and well made, of a pleafmg afpeft and infinuating ad- 
 drefs, lively and entertaining in his difcourfe, and void of the re- 
 ferve which marks the generality of his nation. It appeared to us 
 that he was come incog, with an intent to unbend himfelf with 
 thenotelty of European company, and with the charms of a li- 
 quor which is forbidden by his law. But ftrong as thefe motives ' 
 might be, we had quickly caufe to be convinced, that there was 
 another more prevalent in his bofom, which induced him to ho- 
 nor us with this vifit. He began his attack in complimenting the 
 knowledge and fagacity of our countrymen, and in paffing the ' 
 higheft encomiums on the manufa6lures of our country. He 
 dwelt in particular on the beauty of the fire-arms, and, by an 
 eafy tranfition, exprelTed a defire to poflefs a pair of Englifh pif- 
 tols. I had one pair left, very handfomely mounted with lilver, 
 z wliich
 
 [ 192 ] 
 
 which I immediately prefented him with. Thefe had been feeii by 
 our treacherous hoft the preceding morning, when we had taken 
 up arms to defend the houfe, and as I perceived that the vizier had 
 got an item of them, I parted with them in the bed manner I 
 could. Not fatisfied with this compliance, he now caft his eye on 
 the major's fword. But its mafter had too great a value for an old 
 and trufty fervant, to give it up fo eafily. He had already redeem- 
 ed it from the hands of a robber, and, perhaps, on that account, 
 prized it more than ever. But the vizier's inclination for the 
 fword feemed to increafe, in proportion to the relu6tance of the 
 owner to refign it. In fuch a fituation as ours, I could not fee 
 the ufe of with- holding any article from a man, who, by his rank 
 and authority, might apparently difpofe of us as he pleafed. In 
 my experience of thefe people, I had never found the good of re- 
 fiftance, in cafes of this nature ; and cannot take any fhame upon 
 myfelf for advifmg conciliating and pacific meafures, in a country 
 where a fuccefsful oppofition would prove fatal to us. We had 
 arms to defend ourfelvea, and I believe ikill to have repelled fope- 
 rior numbers ; but it mull be allowed, that we fliould dearly have 
 abided a recourfe to them. Under this conviflion, I endeavored 
 to foften the vizier's difappointment, by tendering him a creefe, 
 or dagger, in lieu of the fword he wanted. Its handle was agate, 
 fludded with fmall rubies and emeralds ; and as it belonged to 
 my Turkifli drefs, was a very proper prefent to an Arab. This 
 creefe, with the piftols, coft me feventy dollars at leaft ; but the 
 fooner we are diverted of our valuables, the nearer will be the 
 hour of our departure. The meaning of this interview was too 
 obvious to efcape our notice ; and we fhould have been content 
 to have purchafed this minifter's friendfliip at the price of our 
 baggage. Though every requeft he made could only be conftru- 
 ed into a demand, he never exceeded the bounds of good-breeding 
 in this piratical vifit j and it mufl be acknowledged, that there 
 * never
 
 C 193 1 
 
 never exifted a more polite robber than the vizier of Ghinnah. FIc 
 had the art to fhift the difcourfe to fomething flattering or amuf- 
 ing to us, whenever we attempted to touch on the fubje6l of our 
 departure; and notwithflanding we perceived his drift, he had 
 the addrefs to evade the queftion, and to lead us from the point 
 we had always in view. In fliort, he laughed with us, rallied 
 with us, and drank with us ; and, as a particular compliment, obli- 
 ged us in our turns to fmoke of his pipe. He lengthened his vi- 
 fit until eight o'clock in the evening, and, during the whole time, 
 difplayed all the fkill and education of a profeiTed courtier. Wc 
 were abfolutely foiled in our attempts to found this politician's 
 mind ; and, at the end of the interview, had not obtained the 
 leafl: infight into the extent of his defigns upon us. When we la- 
 mented our confinement in a private houfe, and complained of the 
 deceitful conduvSl of our hofl:, he affefled to take a part in our 
 troubles. But his language was ambiguous, and left us to con- 
 ceive fomething more than it conveyed. At his departure, how- 
 ever, he afflired us with a fmile, that he intended to renew his vi- 
 fit on the morrow ; but that he fliould infifl on flanding our ca- 
 terer, and fending us a dinner more fuitable to our condition. To 
 this he added, that he hoped it would be the laft meal we fliould 
 cat in Ghinnah. Inconclufive as thefe words were, we were 
 fomewhat aflured by them, and thanked the minifler very cordi- 
 ally for his good intentions. 
 
 MONDAY, 4th August. 
 
 What with the anxiety of our minds, and the clofenefs of our 
 apartment, we pafs our nights in a very uncomfortable manner. 
 The weather is very fultry, and the high walls which furround us 
 on all fides, feem calculated to prevent a free circulation of air. 
 But we had more important cares to engage our attention. From 
 the wreck of our fortunes, we were intent to fgve a fufficiency to 
 
 C c carry
 
 I 194 ] 
 
 carry us to Europe, fliould it pleafe God to deliver us from this 
 rapacious tribe. I had about lool. left in Venetians and guineas, 
 which, with a gold watch, and a ruby ring of fome value, L con- 
 cealed in an handkerchief about my waift. My European fervant 
 contrived alfo to carry about him fome pictures and trinkets fet 
 with jewels, of mine, in his fafli and turban. Mr. Hammond 
 and the major made ufe of fimilar contrivances, to preferve their 
 treafure. But the abundant riches of the latter became a grievous 
 burden to him. He had lent the fupercargo of the Adventure 
 1 000 pagodas, or 400I. refpondentia, to be paid at Suez. At our 
 departure from Yambo he had received this fum, and what with 
 pagodas and rupees that he had befides, he could not at that time 
 be in poffeflion of lefs than loool. in fpecie. A large capital, and 
 though fomewhat leflened by our former travels. Hill confiderable 
 enough to put him to great difficulties in the difpofal of it. An 
 heavy bag of 500 Venetians v/as fufpended about Ibrahim's w^ift-, 
 and afforded us no little trial of the honefty and attachment of this 
 Indian. The major's llave-boys were likewife encumbered with 
 gold and filver ; and a prodigious handfome fword, which he had 
 hitherto fecreted in his bed, was now,, for greater fecurity, hidden 
 in a hole under the flair- cafe. The handle and fcabbard were of 
 filver, highly wrought, and doubly gilt. This fword wzs valued 
 at lOol. fterling, and was once the property of an eaftern prince. 
 Thefe meafures were adopted, from a fufpicion that our trunks 
 would undergo a fcrutiny to-day, and that nothing but this cere- 
 mony having hitherto been omitted, obftrufled our departure. It 
 was our original misfortune to be lumbered with too much bag- 
 gage, and it had been better that we had committed every thing to 
 the waves at Cofue, than to have. brought any packages but papei-s 
 with the caravan. Its appearance almoil warranted tlie exaggera- 
 tion of the vulgar ; and the approach of the Englifli travellers, load,- ] 
 ed with gold, precious ftones, and merchandize, was every where 
 
 publifhed..
 
 [ 195 ] 
 
 publlflied. As they had no idea of people being led by curiofity 
 or accident to vifit their country, it was very natural for them to 
 place our journey to the delire of gain, and to confider us in the 
 light of merchants. Inftead of coming herewith privacy — as we 
 had foolifhly believed on the word of our conduftor — it now ap- 
 pears, that we were expe6led with impatience by the principal in- 
 habitants; and that our perfons and our goods had only been 
 transferred from one hand to another. To the bleffing of God 
 only can we now attribute the moderation of the fhaik of Cofire, 
 and our prefervation on the road hither. Our lives and property 
 had been at the difpofal of him and his dependants, and we could 
 not but fhudder to refle<5l on the company we had travelled with. 
 But to be expofed to pillage in a large and populous town, to 
 which merchants of different countries refort, is only to be ex- 
 plained by the ftrange ideas they entertain of our baggage, which 
 they will not fearch, though we prefs them to do it, and will not 
 feize, though inclined to poflefs it. Thus kept in a ftruggle be- 
 tween avarice and fear, our journey is delayed, our apprehenfions 
 awakened, and our lives poffibly endangered, until the conflift 
 fhall be decided in the breafts of thefe fpoilers ! 
 
 We have feen nothing of the young fhaik fince he received his 
 prefent, nor of our hoft Mahomet, fmce he made us the fine pro- 
 mifes of a fpeedy departure. Ibrahim watched an opportunity 
 this morning to flip out unobferved, and to accompany Abdul 
 RufTar to fome Chriftian houfes. They were directed to found thefe 
 people, refpe<Sling the prote6lion they were inclined to afford us. 
 To know whether they could harbor us in their houfes, in cafe 
 we effected an efcape from our prifon ; or at lead would affift in 
 procuring us a boat, to accomplifti our flight under cover of the 
 night. This negotiation was as fruitlefs as all the others we had 
 undertaken. Neither their defires to ferve us, nor the hopes of a 
 good reward, were forcible enough to command the interpofition 
 
 C c 2 of
 
 ft, 96 ] ^ 
 
 of thefe Chriftians, confident as they were that we labored under 
 the perfecution of the government. To fill up the meafure of our 
 diftrefs, the very boatmen, whom Ibrahhn fpoke to diftantly on 
 the fubject, pofitively decHned to receive us on board without a 
 paffport. Once more then muft we give up the flattering prdf- 
 peft of Hberty, and attend with patience the iflue of our misfor- 
 tunes. 
 
 It has been remarked by fome philofopher, that in every trial 
 to which humanity is put, how numerous foever the illufions of 
 hope, there is flill a fucceflion of caufes to revive this aflive prin- 
 ciple, and to preferve the mind from the influence of defpair. It 
 is a pleafure to me to fubfcribe to a fentiment, which holds out 
 fo comfortable a truth to mankind, and which afcribes fo bene- 
 volent a property to the divine ordination of events. Various had 
 been the turns of our fortune, but never had we lofl: fight of an 
 happy fequel. Even now, when all immediate fuccour is denied 
 us, w^e look forward to a diftant promife. The Indian Fakeer, 
 whom we had not feen fince our arrival here, and vvhofe abfence 
 we could only attribute to his having purfaed his journey, fol- 
 lowed Ibrahim into the hovife, and offered to carry a letter to 
 Cairo. He informed us of his having been frequently denied ad- 
 mittance to us, and urged us to difpatch him with all poflible 
 fpeed, that he might depart unnoticed. The gratitude of this 
 poor Indian excited our admiration, and we delayed not a moment 
 to take advantage of his unexpected offer. We penned a fhort 
 but pathetic letter to Mr. Baldwin at Cairo, acquainting him of 
 our alarming fituation, and begging his interefl with the bey to 
 demand our releafe of this government. We had every reafon to 
 believe that our letter from Cofire had not reached Mr. Baldwin, 
 but \ye had a better foundation for the fuccefs of this, as the 
 bearer had evinced himfelf our friend, and was in a c'^.araclrer 
 that would render him unfufpetSted. But to enfure the delivery of'. 
 
 it.
 
 C »97 I 
 it, as much as lay in our power, we prefented the Fakeer with five 
 dollars, and on the back of the letter defired Mr. Baldwin would 
 pay him as much more, as a reward for his fidelity. The IndiaA ,- 
 was very thankful for this kindnefs, and after concealing the let- 
 ter in his turban, took leave of us with no little emotion. He 
 luckily went out of the houfe unqueftioned by the porter -, and 
 we prepared ourfelves to receive the vizier, in a better temper of 
 mind than we had been in for fome time paft. 
 
 At two o'clock the minifter came, accompanied only by the 
 rafcal Ally. We were glad to find that he was not unmindful 
 of his promife ; and indeed he exceeded our expe6lations in the 
 fumptuous dinner he had provided for us . It confifted of thirty 
 covers, wherein various kinds of fifli, flefli, and fowl, were ferved 
 up to our table. We had not feen fo plentiful a meal for many 
 a day, and were not backward in doing honor to it. The vizier 
 was particularly attentive in recommending the beft difhes to us, 
 and feemed much pleafed at the appetite with which we ate. He 
 relaxed entirely of his ftate, and when the victuals were removed, . 
 he and Ally fet in for ferious drinking. It was impoflible for us 
 to efcape a dram or two, which he forced upon us. But he would 
 tak-e no excufe from Ally, who being a Muffulman like himfelf, 
 was called upon to keep him in countenance. The rum was old, 
 and confequently potent, and did nbf require a great quantity toe 
 intoxicate thefe boon companions. The vizier's head however 
 was much the ftrongcft; and while the liquor only rendered him 
 more talkative, its effedts upon Ally were mifchievous and alarmr 
 ing. He acled a thoufand extravagancies, and at length pulled 
 one of the vizier's piftols out of his girdle, and fired it in the air. 
 In this ftate of frenzy the piftol' might ^s well have been dire>5led 
 at one of our breafts, and we were very glad, in a few minutes . 
 after, to' fee him fink upon the floor in a fit of ftupefa6lion.r Tl^is. j 
 afforded matter of great triumph to the minifter, who begari to , 
 9 conceive
 
 conceive an infinite affection far us, talked of carrying us' home 
 to an houfe more eligible for bur reception, and in the fulnefs of 
 his heart, offered us horfes and guards to condudl us through the 
 city. He was very defuous to play a game of chefs with me, 
 when he underflood I was converfant with it, and we were enter--' 
 taining hopes of being benefitted in fome fhape or other by this^ 
 paroxyfm of kindnefs, when he was fuddenly overcome by fleep. 
 He ftretched himfelf upon the carpet on which he had been fit- 
 ting, and all our airy notions of relief vaniflied with his waking 
 thoughts. 
 
 He had been upwards of an hour in this fituation, when a 
 mcflTenger brought a letter, the delivery of which was too impor- 
 tant to be difpenfed with. We therefore ventured to wake the 
 minifter, who I believe was afhamed to be found in fuch a man- 
 ner. On perufing it, he faid the contents concerned us. That 
 the fliaik of Banute had fent two boats to purfue us down the 
 Nile, under a fuppofition of our having pufhed on for Cairo, and 
 that they were now returned to feek us here. He bade us how- 
 ever to rely on his protection, and to keep ourfelves quiet until 
 thefe people had left the city, when he would difpatch us with 
 fafety. He then took his leave, not empty-handed, as during 
 the vifit he had wheedled the major out of a (haul, which appears 
 to be the chief obje6l of his defires. We had gained no ground 
 in this interview; and held the revival of the Banute ftory, as a 
 mere feint to renew our apprehenfions, and to conceal the real 
 motives of our detention. 
 
 TUESDAY, 5th Auqust. 
 
 The profpe'fl begins to grow darker and darker, and our de- 
 parture feems to be more diftant than ever. We are utterly neg- 
 
 leded-
 
 [ 199 1 
 
 lefted by the family, and, in a manner, forfaken by the world. 
 We had fent Abdul RufTar to fearch for them in vain, when a- 
 bput eleven o'clock he returned with Ally. He was juft rifcn 
 from his bed, and the fumes of the liquor were fcarcely evapora- 
 ted from his brain. We were not forry to fee him in a fituation» 
 from which we .had a chance of procuring fome material intelli- 
 gence. But he was a traitor in his cups, and gave the lye to the 
 notiQri .that good liquor will make a roguehoneft. For ray own 
 part, I had been fo mortified at the depravity of human nature, 
 which, in the Ihape of our landlord and his afTociates, had not 
 only violated the rights of hofpitality, but repeatedly broken the 
 mpft tremendous oaths which could be taken in the fight of a juft 
 God>-that I was tempted at times to difown my alliance to fuch 
 a race. Opprefied by one part of it, and unaffifted by another, 
 whofe religion fhould have enforced their compafiion towards us, 
 it is not furprizing that we beheld them with an eye of abhor- 
 rence and diftrufl. We had experienced that there was no fafety 
 among them, and to the interpofition of the divine Power alone, 
 could we look for our deliverance. But the fimplicity of Ibra- 
 him led him to renew a confidence, fo often mifplaced. He gave 
 more credit to the word of a MufTulman, and was the laft to fee 
 into their falfehood. He took great pains to worm out of Ally 
 the fecret intentions of his brother.. Repeatedly did he demand 
 what they fought for from us, and as often did he proffer in our 
 name to leave our baggage to them, provided they would convey 
 us and our papers to a boat. Shame frequently appeared in 
 Ally's face during this interrogation; and it was not without 
 the hefitation attached to a guilty confcience, that he acknow- 
 ledged they wanted more valuables.. On this the major produced- 
 a filver mug, which he promifed to. deliver to the brothers at the 
 river-fide. But Ally would not be fatisfied without a diamond- 
 ling, which he had feen. on. the major's finger at Cc^firc. This 
 2 was-
 
 \ 200 ] 
 
 was a ring of no inconfiderable value, and had been irhpr\idently 
 expofed by the major, at a moment, indeed, when he did not fuf- 
 pe6l the mifchief which was hatching againft us. It would hav$ 
 been impoffibie, perhaps, to have waved this demand, if the ma- 
 jor had not luckily been in poflcffion of a pafte ring of nearly the 
 fame fize, v^'hich he impofed upon Ally for the diamond one. 
 This ring and tlie filver mug were to be his, when lie performed 
 his engagement of putting us into a boat. The fight of them 
 feemed to rouze the fellow, and to animate his zeal in our behalf. 
 He left us on the inftant, witli a defign to feek his brother, 
 and to fee what could be done for us. As an earneiV -^f his good 
 intentions, he left word with Abdul Ruiiar below, that he would 
 provide a dinner for us, which we were hkely to have gone with- 
 out before. We faw nothing of him however until two o'clock, 
 when he brought us a very fcanty and indifferent dilh of fifli 
 ftewed in oil. We could not help murmuring at our condition, 
 and the rafcal apologized, as well as he could, for the badnefs of 
 the vidluals. We were now left to oiirfelves for the reft of the day, 
 to folve if poffible the intentions of our enemies, and to deliberate 
 in vain on the bell meafures to guard againft their malignity. 
 
 In the evening. Ally brought his brother to us, whom we had 
 not obtained a fight of for the three laft days, though fuppofed 
 to be under the fame roof with us. Nature had been very juft to 
 this man, as the villainy of his difpofition was written in legible 
 charad^ters in his countenance. He was in a manner dragged up 
 to our apartment, and his prefent appearance would not have 
 difcrcdited a king's evidence at the Old-Bailey. He hung his 
 licad, though poffefTed of an infinite ftock of alihrance, and the 
 frivolous reafons which he afligned for his abfence, were the 
 plaineft proofs of his guilt. He now joined with Ally in feem- 
 ing earneft for our departure, and which he afllned us nothing 
 delayed but the fearch of our baggage. This ceremony heunder- 
 
 ftood
 
 [ £01 ] 
 
 flood, was to be performed in tlie morning, and he fully difco- 
 vered his principles, by defiring us to fuffer him and Ally to in- 
 fpeft our baggage before the vizier came to do it. There was a 
 time when this propofal would have been treated with the con- 
 tempt it deferved; but our immediate dependence on thefe fel- 
 lows, obliged us to liften to it with complacency. We were 
 aware of their knavifti defigns, but we confidered our cfFedts as 
 the clog which impeded our courfe ; and a livelier pidlure cannot 
 be exhibited of our fituation, than the readinefs with which we 
 accelerated the hour, which might leave us deftitute of the com- 
 mon neceffaries of life. Our operations were now confined to the 
 obtaining of our enlargement. We thought only of refuming 
 our journey. The means of accomplifliing fo arduous an under- 
 taking, were entirely left to the diredion of chance. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, 6th August. 
 
 This is the fixth day of our arrival at Ghinnah, and we are as 
 perfe6l flrangers to the place as the hour we came here. Our 
 view is limited to the flreet in which we live, and which we peep 
 into from our windows, that are very fmall and very high. Here 
 our faces engage the attention of paffengers, many of whom are 
 brought by curiofity to view us : the detention and ill ufage of 
 European travellers having made no little noife about the city. 
 But compaffion is the only medicine they can afford us. Al- 
 though our cafe is known, we have little chance of relief under 
 fo precarious a government, where the ruUng maxim feems to be, 
 that the weaker fide muft go to the wall. 
 
 It is our fortune once more to excite the pity of the fairer part 
 of the creation, and to find tendernefs and humanity among the 
 members of an Arab tribe. Exactly oppofite to our prifon is the 
 haram of a man of fome confequence, if we can judge of him 
 
 D d from
 
 [ 202 ] 
 
 from the number of his women. It was but two days ago that 
 we difcovered we were the obje6ls of thefe females' regard ; who, 
 when the fun goes down, come tripping by pairs to the front of 
 their terrace, and, by figns and falutations, enquire into our wel- 
 fare, and lament their inability to relieve our diftrefles. Some of 
 thefe women are beautiful, and all well made ; and they make no 
 fcruple to appear before us unvailed, at no greater diftance than 
 the breadth of a narrow ftreet. It would be an eafy matter for 
 us to difcourfe together, with the help of our interpreter, were we 
 not afraid, in our critical fituation, of incurring fufpicion and 
 danger. We find fatisfaction, however, in this dumb intercourfe. 
 Unavailing as their fympathy muft prove, our vanity is not the 
 lefs flattered by it. We have retorted upon our opprefTors with- 
 out defign, and triumph over them in the tendered point ! 
 
 Before we had breakfafled, our hoft and his brother vifited us, 
 to make the propofed fearch. We readily opened our trunks to 
 them, and they were not a little furprifed to find nothing but 
 linen and cloaths, where they expe6led at leaft to light upon 
 piece-goods, jewels, and money. They took, however, two hand- 
 fome china bov.'ls, a box of cut Trichinopoly flones, half a dozen 
 flieets, and a Turkifh habit from the major j and from me a 
 Turkilh coat only. Mr. Hammond's trunks efcaped their 
 hands. We were much aftonifhed at this moderation, but fup- 
 pofe an apprehenfion of the vizier's catching them in the fadV, 
 occafioned their hafty retreat. As they were going away. Ally 
 ftaid until his brother was out of hearing, and then alked the 
 major in a whifper, to let him fecrete the filver mug which was 
 promifed him in the boat. It iinluckily ftood on the window- 
 feat with the remains of the major's breakfaft, and without wait- 
 ing for an anfwer. Ally took it up, and marched with it down 
 flairs. 
 
 We had fcarcely got rid of thefe plunderers, when the vizier 
 
 and
 
 ' [ 203 J 
 
 and his train made their appearance. They were very rigid in 
 their fcrutiny, until they came to a box belonging ta me, which 
 contained a packet and letters of confequence. The manner in 
 which this box was fecured, with nails and wax-cloth, gave them 
 hopes of being well rewarded for their trouble. But when the 
 lid was taken off, and the contents were difplayed, never was fuch 
 furprife feen, as was betrayed in the countenances of the vizier 
 and his adherents. They feemed to awaken as from a dream, 
 and after conferring together with evident marks of difappoint- 
 ment, they precipitately retired, notwithftanding our remon- 
 ftrances, that they would finiili the examination, and permit usi 
 to depart, though at the expence of our baggage. -'-^ 
 
 We had fent Abdul RufTar abroad to procure intelligence, and 
 he returned with the news, that a boat was on the point of fet- 
 ting out for Cairo. He had founded the nokidah, to know 
 what he would do in our behalf; who, in defiance of bribery, 
 would only venture to convey a letter for us to that city. As 
 nothing could be effe6led towards our efcape, we were content to 
 addrefs another letter to Mr. Baldwin, relating the new troubles 
 we had met with, and the nece/Iity of his immediate afliftance, to 
 deliver us from the perils which environed us. This letter 
 Abdul RufTar carried with great fecrecy to the nokidah, who, 
 in oonfideration of a prefent, undertook to dcUver it to Mr. 
 Baldwin. 
 
 In the afternoon the vizier repeated his vifit, under pretence of 
 taking down our names, and making out the pafs for our de- 
 parture. The conduft of this man towards us had been truly 
 fmgular. He had courted us for his own views, and he had de- 
 ceived us without any apparent motive. He had taken indeed 
 many things from us in a polite way, but when he had an op- 
 portunity of fatisfying his avarice with the choice of our movei 
 ables, he fhrunk back, as if afhamed or afraid to perfevere in his 
 
 D d 2 intentions.
 
 [ 204 ] 
 
 intentions. This palpably fhews that there is a ruling authority 
 to which he is accountable, and to which we are indebted for our 
 ieciirity to this hour. He pofitively told us that we fliould go at 
 night, and our hoft as pofitively promifed us his camels, to 
 tranfport us and our baggage to the river- fide. At fix o'clock 
 our hoft came, but it was only to inform us, that the young 
 Ihaik had ran away to Cofire with the boat-money. We could 
 npt at firft think fo ill of our condu6tor, but our hoft affured us, 
 that we had i'een our laft of him. More money was now de- 
 manded for the hire of a boat, but we had fo long perfifted in the 
 ftory of our money being all expended, that we could not have 
 produced any, without confirming their opinion of our wealth. 
 This fellow, however, had the addrefs to obtain the fword from ' 
 the major, which had been refufed to the vizier, and had been re- 
 deemed, with fuch trouble, from the clutches of the foldier. 
 This fword lie now demanded upon the footing of a former pro- 
 njife;^ and the major thought proper to gratify his wifhes. He 
 has been a material fufFerer during the tranfaftions of this day. 
 
 THURSDAY, 7th August. 
 
 "We were at breakfaft upon ripe figs and bread, for which we ' 
 were indebted to the attention of Abdul Ruflar, who is our ca- 
 terer at fuch times as our hoft negle6ls us, when two of the vizier's 
 people entered the room, accompanied by our hoft and his father. 
 The laft is an old man, and not only privy to the iniquitous con- 
 duct of his fons, but a tormenting folicitor himfelf for any thing 
 that comes within his view. The trite tale of the Banutecavalry 
 being returned for money, was once more attempted to be im- 
 p-ofed upon us ; but we had learned to parry the attack, by de- 
 filing th^m to convey our baggage to the horfemen, who were, 
 welcome to difpofe of it as they thought fit. This liberal ofFef ^ 
 s did
 
 [ 205 ] 
 did not fuit their defigns. It was the fpecle which they looked 
 for, and it Teemed as if they began to fufped that we did not keep 
 it among our baggage. From looo dollars, which thefe mock 
 agents at firfl demanded, they fell at once to loo, then to 80, 60, 
 40, and at length to 20 dollars ! The vizier's adhereiUs foon re- 
 tired, when they found themfelves treated in fo cavalier a manner, 
 and left us to difcufs the matter with Mahomet. This is the 
 Cerberus whom vye are to gain over, if the door to our efcape is 
 to be opened to us. We have tempted him with many a fop, but 
 his price is yet to be reached, if it be in his power to permit of 
 our departure. We condefcended to aflbre him, that we had not 
 the mcney to fatlsfy this demand -, but that, to oblige him, we would 
 give up our filver fpoons, which we ufed at our table, and which 
 were equal to the value of twenty dollars. He appeared to liflen 
 with great attention to this propofal, but fuddenly recolle(51ing 
 himfelf, he paufed for a moment, and told ur, that without a let- 
 ter, from us, fpecifying that he had received no money from iis» 
 he could concern himfelf no further about ,Qur affairs. ' The 
 effrontery of this Arab exceeded, if poflible, his depravity. He 
 talked as if his endeavors had been exerted for our good -, and 
 held the language of friendfliip amid the daily pradice of in- 
 juflice. We were, therefore, not a little rejoiced to find, that our 
 hoft did not quietly enjoy the fruits of his villainy. On Inquir- 
 ing into the neceffity of giving him fuch a letter, we learned that 
 the town's people threatened to pillage his houfe, and to (hare 
 with him the 1000 Venetians which he was reported to have ob- 
 tained from us. /A declaration under our hands of its falfity, 
 would ftifle the report, and preferve his property from being left 
 to the mercy of an enraged populace. We had been fo little 
 accuftomed to truth in this country, that we were become fcep- 
 tics in every thing, which did not immediately fall under our own 
 obfervation. This fellow, however, had evidently fome reafon 
 
 for 
 
 > i 
 
 tJi,'!
 
 [ 206 ] 
 
 for his fears, and, in order to difcover their origin, we dif- 
 mifTed him with a promife of f urnifliing him with the paper he 
 wanted. 
 
 Ibrahim informed us, that he had been frequently preffed by 
 Ally, to go' abroad with him at unfeafonable hours. This beha- 
 viour awakened our fufpicions, that fome foul play was intended 
 to this faitliful domeftic; and we accordingly cautioned him not 
 to truft himfelf in Ally's company. But by a ftrange infatua- 
 tion, he neglecled this admonition ; and by venturing out of 
 doors, when we had laid down to take our afternoon-nap, fell 
 into the net which was fpread for him, and very nearly involved uS 
 in the danger we were mollly to apprehend. He returned about 
 five o'clock in a ftate of intoxication, and could hardly find woi-ds 
 to explain the caufe of it, when he became quite befide himfelf. 
 We gathered, neverthelefs, from him, that Ally had met and 
 inveigled him into a coffee-houfe, under pretence of treating him 
 with a difh of coffee. That he had tafted fomething particular 
 in' the coffee, and would not be prevailed upon to ftay, when he 
 found his head begin to grow giddy. That villain Ally had 
 doubdefs introduced an opiate into the cup ; and whatever his 
 view was, it was baffled by the refolution of Ibrahim, who forced 
 his way home in that condition, and difplayed a condu6l we did 
 not give him credit for before to-day. The mafor's bag of Vene- 
 tians was ftill about him; but it was impolTible for us to know, 
 what intelligence mis:ht not have been drawn from him in fuch a 
 fituation. He was by no means addi6led to liquor; and though 
 he would not refufe his dram when on board the Adventure, he 
 •had fo long abftained from fpirits, that we were convinced he had 
 not been aflifling to his own intoxication. We had the greateft 
 confidence in his honefty and attachment, but we dreaded the dif- 
 toveries which he unknowingly might have made. We were 
 anxious. to fuppofe.that no harm had yet been done, and hurried 
 3/-!4 him
 
 [ 2^7 J 
 
 hlra to bed in an inner apartment, where we watched him like a 
 child, that he might not get down flairs, or hold any converfa- 
 tion with Mahomet or Ally, until he was fobered again. Thefe 
 blood-hounds followed the fcent which the latter had hit off, and 
 came up repeatedly, under pretence of talking to Ibrahim about 
 our departure. But we were aware of their intentions, and hin- 
 dered their waking or getting any accefs to him. It would not 
 have been fo eafy for us to have prevented the intrufion of the vi- 
 zier, and we trembled for his appearance at this moment. I can 
 declare for myfelf, that I have not experienced the poignancy of 
 diftrefs until this accident j by which we find ourfelves brought 
 to the brink of dellruclion, through the fimplicity of one of our 
 own attendants. The morning, we hope, will reflore him to a 
 fenfeof his folly, anddifpel the cloud which thickens around us. 
 
 FRIDAY, 8th August. 
 
 The occurrences of this day have been Co crouded, fo ftrange, 
 and fo afFeding to humanity, that the reader will doubtlefs offer 
 a plea to himfelf for the irregularity of a narrative, which was 
 taken down late at night, and while our fates were flill in all the 
 horrors of uncertainty- The defire of being held in the memory 
 of mankind, even awaits us to the mouth of the grave ; and how- 
 ever hideous the danger, a liberal mind cannot bear the idea of 
 going out of the world by an obfcure and unknown track, while 
 there is a chance of tranfmitting its fufferings, its fortitude, and 
 its refignation, to the regard of pofterity. And fhould it pleafe 
 God to permit this journal of our diftrelles, to furvive the general 
 :«:reck which threatens our lives and property, it may have the 
 merit of difclofing to others, the perils which attend the traveller 
 through this favage clime; and to warn him by our examples, of 
 the little credit he fhould repofe in the fan^ity, the hoipitaiity of 
 
 10 the
 
 [ 208 ] 
 
 the Arabs ; for which virtues they have been falfely celebrated by 
 uninformed hiftorians ! 
 
 The morning had palled as ufual, in fufpence and diftruft of 
 thefe people's intentions, nor did any thing occur to fweeten our 
 daily potion, but the repentance of Ibrahim, and the behavior of 
 the poor women whom I before mentioned to have taken notice 
 of us. Immured in a fimilar confinement, they felt for our fitu- 
 ation, and partook of our troubles. The tale of our difafters had 
 certainly reached their ears, as they enquired by figns whether we 
 had cloaths left, or vi6luals to eat. Actuated by our melancholy 
 geftures to fuggefl the worft, thefe tender-hearted creatures 
 brought fruit and fugar-canes, all they could probably lay their 
 hands upon, and threw them by ftealth acrofs the ftreet to our 
 terrace. This humane talk they were employed in for half an 
 hour and more, when they difappeared, on our advertifing them 
 of the arrival of vifitors. 
 
 The alarm was falfe, for it was only Abdul Ruflar, who was 
 returned from reconnoitring the motions of the enemy. In his 
 walk he had been encountered by fome Chriftian merchants, who 
 now recommended to us, to get a letter privately written to the 
 Shaik Ul Arab, complaining of the ufage we had met with, and 
 imploring his prote6lion. They not only advifed this expedient, 
 but promifed to forward the letter for us, in the fuccefs of 
 which they implicitly confided. We could not do better, we 
 thought, than follow the opinion of thofe of our own perfuafion j 
 and we had adtually difpatched our agents to them- upon this 
 errand, when the fcheme was unknowingly overfet by the ma- 
 jor. We had all along confidered ourfelves as clofe prifoners; 
 «nd the major refolved to make an effort to get into the ftreet, 
 to be certified of the worft of our fituation. He found the 
 •door locked, and knocking to get it opened by the porter who 
 ^conftantly attended without, the family were alarmed, and came 
 * in
 
 [ 209 ] 
 
 in numbers to prevent his forcing this pafTagc. A fir uggle en- 
 fued, which the major thought prudent to defift from, and re- 
 turned up flairs with our fervants, who were detained at home 
 by this untowai'd accident. 
 
 While we were confulting on fome remedy for this difappoint- 
 ment, a body of people came up ta our apartment, ufhered by our 
 hoil. The principals were an old fat man, and one dreffed in a 
 fcarlet robe, who told us that he was the hakeem or governor of 
 the town, and had been commanded by the Shaik Ul Arab, his 
 mailer, to take us under his protection ; to enquire into the par- 
 ticulais of the injuries which we had fuftainedi and to tranfmit 
 a faithful account of us to the fhaik, who would fee juftice done 
 to us, let whofoever be the aggreflbr. Our fpirits had long been 
 in want of a cordial to revive them, and this fpeech operated very 
 powerfully upon them. The appearance of thefe officers, and the 
 authority which they took upon them, gave credit to their words. 
 We confidered ourfelves as diftinguiflied by the compaffion of the 
 fhaik, though we could not difcover by what providential acci- 
 dent the tale of our difafters had come to his knowledge. But 
 elated as we were by this fudden change in our affairs, and con- 
 fonant as the hakeem's offer was to our hopes of revenge, wc were 
 too well aware of the unliable Hate of an Arabian government, 
 to be led allray by a falfe emblem of power. The event proved 
 that we did not judge much amifs ; and that it is dangerous to 
 make enemies in a body, where we are not affured. of friends. 
 
 Before the affembly had well feated themfelves, the vizier arri- 
 ved, and took his place among them. He betrayed a downcalt 
 and irrefolute countenance, and I obferved him to look often at 
 us, to guefs I fuppofe at our intentions. I endeavored to clear 
 his doubts with a fmile. In reply to the hakeem, we declared our 
 fcruples to prefer complaints, llrangers as we were to the coun- 
 try, and unaffured of protection. On this we were urged by 
 
 E e moll
 
 [ 2IO ] 
 
 mofr prefeiit to a plain recital of fa6ls, which they faid was but 
 due to the honor of their mafter, whofe charadter would fufFer 
 by the mal-treatment of flrangers, who were fufFered to leave his 
 dominions without redrefs. Ibrahim on this advifed us to give a 
 general ftatement of our lofles, >vithout fpecifying the names of 
 our oppreflbrs ; which would irritate no one, and ftill obtain us 
 the protection of the government. Had this counfel been follow- 
 ed, it might have turned out better ; though it is impoflible for 
 human judgment to determine it. The examination began un- 
 der this reftri6lion, and Ibrahim exprefled fundry fums of money 
 and articles of value we had been deprived of, by the arts and me- 
 naces of perfons unknown. The vizier fate in the circle like a 
 private man, and liftened in filence to the account of the robbe- 
 ries ; in which he feemed fatisfied not to be declared an accom- 
 plice. But the zeal of Abdul RuflTar quickly altered this peace- 
 able fcene. I had obferved him fitting in a corner, with in- 
 dignant looks and reftlefs poftures, when, unable to bear with 
 the villainy of his countrymen any longer, he ftarted up, and 
 pointing to his own neck as a pledge for our fafety, he went 
 iip to the hakeem, and pronounced aloud, that our doubts of 
 protection prevented the truth from appearing in its proper 
 colors. That, to his knowledge, our hofl Mahomet had for- 
 ced money and effefts from us ; and that the vizier himfelf 
 had defrauded us of fhauls and other things to a confiderable 
 amount. But the integrity and courage of this poor fellow 
 met with a very unworthy recompence. He had built more 
 than ourfelves upon thfe regal authority, which could not, in 
 the perfons of the fliaik's officers, fliield him from danger and 
 difgraCe. The vizier rofe abruptly from his feat, and half 
 drawing his fabre, would have flopped his countryman in his 
 tale, had he not been luckily prevented by thofe near liim. 
 The aflembly broke up in confufion, and we could not but 
 3 be
 
 [ an ] 
 
 be alarmed for our own fafety at fuch a moment. No fooner 
 was Abdul Ruflar delivered from one enemy, than he encounter- 
 ed others more, bitter in the hofl and his family, who fell furi- 
 oufly on him in the prefence of the hakeem, and it was with 
 much difficulty that we refcued him from their hands, at the ex- 
 pence of fome heavy blows. But the fcene did not conclude here. 
 To make good our hoft's affertion, that every one is abfolute in 
 his own houfe, he turned the vizier, hakeem, and all the fhaik's 
 officers out of doors, and told them deridingly, to go and confult 
 elfewhere. Our faithful domeftic would fain have followed them, 
 but he was prevented J. which fo intimidated him, that dreading 
 the refentment of the family, he came unobferved to our terrace, 
 and dropped himfelf thirty feet at leaft, from a perpendicular 
 height, into the ftreet. He efcaped ; but not, we apprehend, with- 
 out fon\e Iprain or contufion, from fo defperate a leap. 
 
 This tumult had fcarcely fubfided, when one of a more ferioug 
 and infulting nature enfued. Apprehenfive of a difcovery, and 
 perhaps weary of carrying about fuch a load, Ibrahim had depoii- 
 ted the bag of Venetians which he was charged with, in the. cor- 
 ner of a dark room which held fire-wood. The major was appri- 
 zed of this flep, and might very well be fatisfied of the fecurity of 
 his treafure. But the prying difpofition of the family furmount- 
 ed our precaution. Ibrahim had been met coming out of this 
 room by Ally, before the arrival of the hakeem and his com- 
 pany. Sufpicion is ever on the watch, and gives a motive to 
 every aftion that falls under its obfervation. The late difpute, 
 in which he had borne fo a6live a part, had not driven it 
 from this fellow's mind ; who, when all was quiet again, flole 
 up foftly to the room which had excited his curiofity. Ibra- 
 him by good fortune faw him enter it, and crying loudly for af- 
 fiftance, ran towards the place which concealed the money. 
 He was heard and followed by the major and my European 
 
 E e 2 fervant.
 
 t 2f2 ] 
 
 feivant, who found him at the room-door ftruggling for the- 
 bag, which Ally had fecured, and would have retreated with. 
 Numbers however prevailed, and the bag was prefently redeemed 
 from the rafcal's gripe, who retired, muttering vengeance againft us. 
 We had foon reafon to lament this unfortunate difcovery. 
 It awakened a new fpirit of avarice in our hoft, and confirmed 
 him in his exaggerated ideas of our wealth. He came up flairs, 
 attended by the informer Ally and his fervants, armed with fvvords 
 and fpears, to demand the contefted treafure. ' We had expefted 
 this, and in the interval, the major had time to change the bag 
 of Venetians for one of rupees, w^hich was not a twentieth part its 
 value. The gold was again committed to Ibrahim's waift, and 
 the filver was carelefsly thrown into one of the trunks. The de- 
 ception fucceeded -, and, after fome altercation, the bag was pro- 
 duced from the trunk, and impofed upon Ally for the one that 
 he had feized upon. The bulk was nearly the fame, though no- 
 thing but the confufion he was in, can account for his not 
 diftinguifliing the difference between the weight of the gold and 
 filver. Though this aflion was nothing lefs than a robbery, 
 thefe Arabs were willing to give it a more favorable term, and 
 faid, that they took it on condition of providing us with a boat, 
 and accelerating our departure. There was fomething too grofs 
 in this behavior to amufe us with expectation ,- but we were as 
 ready as themfelves to fave appearances, and to conceal our mor- 
 tification at being fubjecled to fuch violence. Some of our com- 
 pany had propofed manual refiflance ; and a mufket was aftually 
 taken up on the occafion, which was laid down upon a convic- 
 tion of the folly of oppofition, where our lives were not concerned, 
 in a country fo inimical to Chriflians, and fo fevere in its decrees 
 againft thofe, who, however juftly, have dipped their hands in 
 the blood of a Mahometan. We adopted a middle courfe, and 
 fo far maintained our dignhv, as to infift upon the hoft's dif- 
 jj milling
 
 r 2^3 r 
 
 mifllng his fei-vants before we would treat with him. This he 
 eafily comphed with, and received the bag containing eighty- 
 feven rupees, with many aflurances of fidehty, and promifes to 
 effeft our deliverance from this city. 
 
 Our hoft juftified the opinion we entertained of him. So far 
 from keeping his woi'd, and endeavoring to ferve us, in return 
 for the money he had extorted, he only left us, to contrive feme 
 method to make fure of our remaining treafure. In lefs than 
 half an hour he returned,, accompanied by two villains, who 
 called themfelves the fervants of the Shaik Ul Ai'ab, and who 
 produced a paper, which they termed his order to fearch our 
 baggage. Though we could not but doubt the authenticity of this 
 paper, we were far from oppofmg a meafure which we had fo often 
 folicited ; and which we hoped would deliver us from further 
 perfecution on this head. It is too cutting to my refleftion to 
 recount the particiilars of this fcrutiny, which was conduced 
 rather with the violence and indecency of a robbery, than with 
 the forms of a fearch. Not a fingle thing efcaped the hands of 
 thefe fellows, that was of the. leafl: value. Mr. Hammond, 
 among other articles, loft a pair of filver-mounted piftols, which 
 he had hitherto preferved, and they plundered the major of his 
 filver fpoons, a filver urn handfomely chafed, and weighing above 
 hfty oiinces, which he had in vain concealed within fome kitchen 
 utenfils, belides a quantity of linen to a conhderable amount. 
 From me they took a filver hookah, a fet of gold buckles, two 
 pieces of Indian hankerchiefs, a gold brocade waiftcoat, and a 
 Turkifh gown, which, at the loweft calculation, were worth 200 
 dollars. I left the room while this fcene was ti-anfa<5ling, as it 
 was to the laft degree grating to my nature, to behold, unre- 
 venged, fo daring an outrage againft all divine and human laws. 
 They retired about eight o'clock in the evening, loaded with their 
 fpoils, and we threw ourfelves upon the floor, to endeavor to get 
 
 fome
 
 [ 214 ] 
 
 fomc rcpofe, after a day fpent in uproar, altercation, and fa- 
 tigue : infomuch that we had not leifure to take a proper refrefli- 
 ment. It is no wonder if our reft was difturbed, and our ima- 
 gination haunted with gloomy ideas, under fuch peculiar circum- 
 ftances. We could obferve from our windows a ftrong guard to 
 be ported about the houfe, with camels ready faddled at the 
 door, but for what purpofe we knew not j whether to take us to 
 the boat, or to any place more fuitable to their black defigns. 
 We were deprived of our fervant, who ufed to provide us with 
 the neceffaries of life, and were to truft to chance for the mor- 
 row, fhould it ever dawn upon our eyes, after the unparalleled 
 treatment we had fuffered. Guilt might poffibly be. touched 
 by the ftings of diftruft and fear -, and to quiet thefe monitors, 
 it was uncertain how much further our perfecutors would plunge 
 themfelves into the abyfs of wickednefs. In the variety of this 
 diftrefs, life was ftill dear i and, diverted as it was of eafe and en- 
 joyment, we flept v/ith arms in our hands, to preferve it from 
 violence ! 
 
 SATURDAY, 9th August. 
 
 The dawn relieved us from our apprehenfions, but found us in 
 all the agitations of fufpence. We were chiefly diftrerted at the 
 abfence of Abdul Ruffar. We knew not what mifchance might 
 have befallen him, in his attempt to efcape the death which was 
 intended him j and we were at a lofs to furnifh ourfelves with 
 provifion for the day. There was a rilk attended the going 
 abroad of Ibrahim, after the adventure of yefterday ; and. we had 
 not much dependence on the charity of the family, who had 
 already forfeited every pretenfion to humanity in our eftimation. 
 We had luckily a little coffee left, which we boiled, and made 
 out a breakfaft with the ft ale bread of yefterday. About an hour 
 
 after
 
 [ 215 ] 
 
 after this, a fervant of the houfe unexpe^edly brought us up 
 fome milk mixed with water, with a fcanty allowance of bread. 
 We underftood that we were indebted to our hoft for this meagre 
 repaft, but we neither faw him, his brother, nor any living crea- 
 tures but at a diflance, during the whole morning. Among thefe 
 were our kind friends in the oppofite houfe, to whom only we 
 now appear to be of the leaft confequence. Thefe compaffionate 
 females had been alarmed at the tumult in our apartment on the 
 preceding evening. I had obferved them, at the time, frequently 
 peep over their wall, to fee what was going on, and feem- 
 mgly anxious about the confequences. Nor had they exhaufted 
 their attention towards us. At the ftill hour of noon, when 
 the ftreets are deferted by the people, they came to their terrace, 
 and with fympathizing looks would have confoled our fufferings. 
 Often did they wipe their eyes which were faffufed with tears, and 
 as often did they inquire, by the moft fignificant figns, whether 
 our lives had been endangered during the tranfaftions of the paft 
 day. Notwithftanding our forlorn condition, we fliould have 
 little deferved the name of men, if this behavior had failed to 
 make a fuitabfe impreflion upon our minds. Like the cordial 
 which is adminiftered to the dying patient, it ferved to revive our 
 Ipirits, though we were fenfible its effedls were temporary and 
 infufficient. Their generofity was equally extended to our 
 "wants. Naturally fuppofmg that we were ftinted in our nou- 
 riftiment in fuch an inhofpitable houfe, thefe affeftionate fouls 
 threw over loaves of bread and boiled eggs, tied up carefully in 
 their vails, which came fafely to us, and would have proved a 
 plentiful fupply, if fomething extraordinary had' not difturbed 
 them while taken upwich this charitable a6l. We are appre- 
 henfive that they were difcovered aflifling us by their keeper; 
 and, as they did not appear to us again, that they are doomed to 
 ftri6ler confinement, for exerting an impulfe of benevolence to 
 
 their
 
 [ 2r6 ] 
 
 their fellow-creatures in diftrefs ! No breaft but a Miifluhnan's, 
 could harbor a jealous thought on fuch an occalion, or con- 
 found a principle of compaflion witli an amorous inclination to- 
 wards perfons in our fituation. 
 
 About two o'clock the fame fervant whom we had feen before, 
 brought us a wretched compofition of eggs and oil, which, for my 
 part, I found it was impoilible to touch. I was content, therefore, 
 to adapt my meal to our prifon, and dined upon bread and wa- 
 ter. At this moment we had notice given us, that the hakeem 
 and his train were below flairs, and that he purpofed to remove 
 us in the evening from this hateful habitation. He prefently 
 came up to us, to confirm this agreeable intelligence, and received 
 our cordial acknowledgments for his humane intentions. We had 
 experienced many reverfes of fortune fince our arrival in this 
 country, but none fo fudden, fo unlooked-for, as the prefent. 
 From the circumftances which attended the hakeem's expulfion 
 yefterday, we little expefted to fee him re-enter the houfe in tri- 
 umph, and refcue us from the force which had fo fuccefsfuUy op- 
 pofed him before. But it feems that he comes armed with new 
 powers from the fhaik, to take us immediately under his own 
 protedion. It is not eafy to unravel the politics of this ftate -, but 
 the decifive behavior of our hoft laft night, is a prefumptive evi- 
 dence of his authority being about to draw to a conclufion. He 
 has plundered us of all he could lay his hands upon, and he wife- 
 ly abfents himfelf at a period when he either cannot, or does not, 
 think it worth his while to detain us. We found from the ha- 
 keem, that Abdul RuiTar is fecurely lodged in his houfe, tho' his 
 legs and feet are violently contufed by the fall. We are happy in 
 his fafety ; but the damage which this faithful adherent has fuf- 
 tained in our caufe, cannot but flrongly affed us. The hakeem 
 now bade us farewell until fun-fet, when he promifed to return 
 with a camel and an efcort, to convey us and our baggage to a 
 
 dwelling
 
 [ 217 ] 
 
 dwelling of his own. To prevent the family from giving us any 
 farther dillurbance, he left a fervant at the door of our apartment, 
 whom he direcfted to keep watch during his abfence. 
 
 There was no danger, however, of our being molefted in the 
 fmalleft degree. The houfe appeared to be abandoned by its in- 
 habitants ; and this folitude luckily afforded the major an oppor- 
 tunity of recovering his coftly fword, from the hole in which it 
 had been depofitcd. This he once more fewed up in his bed ; 
 and we had packed up the remains of our baggage, long before 
 the appointed hour of our removal. We waited with great pa- 
 tience until the day clofed, and it was quite dark before any of us 
 betrayed the leaft uneafinefs at the hakeem's flay. But as the night 
 waxed old, we relapfed into the dreadful flate of uncertainty which 
 we had fo repeatedly known. We had not a doubt of the vera- 
 city of the hakeem ; but we began to fufpe<5t that our enemies 
 had prevailed againfl him, either by fecret intrigues or open vio- 
 lence. We were apprized of their animofity, and we had every 
 thing to dread from their fuccefs. It was ten o'clock before this 
 gloomy profpefl was diflipated, by the arrival of the hakeem. He 
 came attended by a party of foldiers, and a camel to tranfport our 
 baggage. The villain Ally had now the affurance to fhew him- 
 felf, and to fuperintend the removal of our things. Before wc 
 went out, the hakeem obliged us to prime our fire-arms anew, 
 and dropped certain expreflions which feemed to Ibrahim to im- 
 ply danger on the road. Had we been convinced of an am.bufcade 
 being laid for us, we ihould rather have preferred to encounter it, 
 now we were patronized by the government, than to have remain- 
 ed in an houfe, which had been a fcene of mortification and deceit 
 to us. The die was caft, and we were to abide by its decifioni 
 which we did, by marching after our camel and fervants, who help- 
 ed to carry the baggage, accompanied by the hakeem and his 
 guard. Each of the fervants took a lighted taper in his hand, 
 
 F f and.
 
 [ 2l8 ] 
 
 and, to heighten the fcene, we were enjoined profound filence. In 
 this manner did we traverfe a number of ftreets, each of which 
 we found fecured by a gate ; and after going above half a mile, 
 arrived at the place of our defirination about eleven o'clock, with- 
 out having met with any interruption. We were introduced by 
 the hakeem to our lodging, and after pafling through a large 
 court, were carried up Hairs to a fmall, but airy, bed-room. Our 
 baggage was alfo brought up, and depofited in a back-room, 
 where the fervants are to fleep. The friendly hakeem now took 
 his leave of us, and fixing a centry at our door to protedt us, left 
 us to enjoy almoft the only found reft we had known fmce our 
 departure from Cofire. 
 
 SUNDAY, loth August. 
 
 Here are we, after all our difficulties and dangers, fafely 
 pounded within the precin6ls of an haram. Such, on our awak- 
 ing this morning, did we find the houfe we were got into. It is 
 an antique ftruflure, much injured by time, and ftands upon a 
 fpacious foundation, though the apartments are fmall, and hud- 
 dled together after the mode of thefe eaftern piles of lafcivioufnefs. 
 Around our chamber the floor is raifed about two feet from the 
 ground, v/hich ferves us to eat upon by day, and to fleep luxuri- 
 oufly upon by night. Hence we have a fine view of the river» 
 from which we are but two or three fl:reets diftant. It is here- 
 fecmingly lefs than a mile in breadth, and difcovers Ltfelf through, 
 different openings in the gardens, with which this city is adorned. 
 The wind from the north-v/eft now prevails, and meets the cur- 
 rent, which runs with the utmofl: rapidity towards the fea. This 
 produces a fine eftecl. The town lines this fide of the Nile, and 
 the oppofite bank is bordered by a mountain, which at one place- 
 breaks ofl'a'bruptly, and difclofes a large plain, covered with en- 
 2 clofures
 
 [ 319 ] 
 
 clofures of grain, and here and there embelliilied with groves of 
 date and orange trees. While we were indulging ourfelves with 
 this profpecl, we had a vifit from the friendly hakeem, who feem- 
 ed alarmed at our expohng ourfelves to public view, and haftily 
 fhut our windows. He excufed this check to our curiofity, from 
 the neceflity there was for us to remain in privacy until the ar- 
 rival of his mafter, or of further orders from him refpefling our 
 concerns. We could not but acquiefce in this meafurc ; and after 
 bidding us to rely on the juftice of the Shaik Ul Arab, he left us to 
 partake of a meal of good bread and milk, which his domeftics had 
 provided for us. Our breakfaft was fcarcely over, when the hakeem 
 fent for Ibrahim, to attend him at his own houfe. We expe6t^ 
 this interview will determine fomething pofxtive about our fate. 
 
 When we left Cofire, we laid our account that our troubles 
 •would end with our journey to the Nilt. Who could have dreamt 
 that after efcaping the perils of the defart, we Ihouid be reduced 
 to defpair in a populous city ! It were better that our baggage had 
 been funk to the bottom of the Red Sea, than that it flaould have 
 afforded us a trifling part of the uneafinefs we have fuffercd. Pri- 
 foners for ten days in a private houfe, where each moment was 
 impoifoned by the uncertainty of our deftiny, we were now, per- 
 haps, in a more honorable confinement in the hands of govern- 
 ment, which we fhrewdly fufpe6f afferts our caufe, rather from a 
 defire of recovering the plunder for itfeif, than of doing juftice to 
 us. But we ai^e content if our departure can be purchafed at fo 
 low a price. , . , 
 
 We were anxious to fee Abdul RufTar, whofe ankles we find are 
 much more flrained by his fall, than were at firft reported. But 
 he is not to be moved here until the evening, when we fliall be 
 able to adminifler fuch relief to him, as is in our power to 
 <lo. At one o'clock Ibrahim returned to us, andvve underfland 
 that tlie hakeem has got out of him all our loffes, not excepting 
 
 F f 2 the
 
 [ 220 ] 
 
 the other night's pillage, which he had at firft determined to con- 
 ceaU And with feme reafon, as the villains threatened our lives 
 if we divulged it to any one. But Ibrahim fays, there was no 
 one prefent at the examination, but a Chriftian feci'etary, who 
 took it down, and the hakeem privately aflured him, that his 
 mafter would give orders to feize the robbers, and make themre- 
 ftore their booty. God only knows the termination of this mat- 
 ter ; but, for our parts, we would compromife to efcape with our 
 prefent damages. We now ate heartily of a plentiful meal, which 
 Ibrahim had provided for us. Mutton, fifli, and vegetables, are 
 very cheap here, and no European could complain of their man- 
 ner of diefCng their food. 
 
 We faw nobody during the evening, but the fervants belonging 
 to the houfe. But v^e received a complimentary melfage from 
 the hakeem, with notice of his mafter's approach, who is expedt- 
 ed here immediately. Thefe are welcome tidings to us, who have 
 no idea of getting away, until the arrival of this great man. It is 
 our plan to be rid of this place as foon as poflible ; and we pro- 
 pofc to make a tender to the ihaik of all he may recover on our 
 accounts. Happy, if we have the luck to efcape without further 
 pillage. 
 
 /I In order that we might enjoy th'C benefit of a cool wind, and 
 a moon-light evening, we went to bed very early, as we had been 
 defired not to open our windows until the lights were extingu fh- 
 ed. And now an adventure occurred, which was romantic to the 
 laft degree, and bore a refemblance to tliofe feigned ones, portray- 
 ed by the inimitable pencil of Cervantes. I was awakened out of 
 a found nap about ten o'clock, by a loud knocking at the gate, 
 which fecures the upper end of the ftreet we live in. I found my 
 companions had been difturbed by the fame noife, and were 
 equally furprized with myfelf at the ftrangenefs of it. Prefently 
 after the gate was opened, and a number of people affembled be- 
 
 is. fore
 
 [ 221 ] 
 
 fore our houfe, whom we could difcern by the light of the mootr^' 
 difpofing themfelves in different fituations on the ground, and 
 converfing with great earneftnefs and vociferation. While we 
 were pondering on the iffue of this bufinefs, which had an alarm- 
 ing appearance at fuch an hour of the night, when we knew our 
 refidence was meant to be kept fecret, and that our lives might 
 be fought by the villains whom we had informed againft, I went 
 out on the back terrace to awake the guard, which was ftationed 
 to prote61: us, when fuddenly a band of mulic ftruck up without, 
 and recalled me to the fcene of a6tion. This band was compofed 
 of firing, wind, and parchment inllruments, and though the 
 harmony was none of the belt, it could not fail to have a Angu- 
 lar effedt upon our imaginations, haunted as they were with 
 doubts and apprehenfions. A fmgle voice fometimes accompa-i 
 nied the mufic, which was in general of a melancholy ftrain. This 
 ferenade lafted until midnight, and when the moon went down, 
 it was continued by torch-light. But the intent of it we are ut- 
 terly at a lofs to difcover. Whether to celebrate a marriage, or a 
 funeral, or whether it was performed by the hakeem's guard, to 
 divert their mafter or ourfelves. It was one o'clock before the 
 night was reftored to its ufual quiet ; at which time I fell alleep, 
 but had my repofe difturbed by the extravagance of fancy, which 
 brought a motley jumble to my mind, of mufic, harams, arms, 
 captivity, and impafl'able v.'aftes ! 
 
 "''^^ *".''' MONDAY, nth August. 
 
 This day was the moft barren of incidents of any that we have 
 long experienced. Not a meflage, nor the leaft intelligence from 
 the hakeem, in regard to our affairs. This has at leaft a good 
 appearance. He means, perhaps, to wait the arrival of his maf- 
 ter, inftead of deceiving us with the hopes of his own interpofi- 
 tion, and obtaining prefents from us on that fcore, like the vizier 
 o and
 
 [ 222 ] 
 
 and the people into whofe hands we at firft fell. Wc learn from 
 Ibrahim, that the rude concert laft night was intended for the ha- 
 keem's entertainment, who is our neighbor, and who fate fmok- 
 ing and drinking coffee with his women the greateft: part of the 
 night. This is a favorite diverfion with the Arabs and Turks, 
 who keep themfelves ftill during the heat of the day, and enjoy * 
 the cool hours of the night, and the ferene light of the moon, with 
 a relifh unknown to the inhabitants of the inclement north. 
 Thofe only who have partaken of this enchanting fcene, under a 
 fky ftill unclouded, can form an idea of its luxury ; where the ve- 
 ry dews are genial, and the night-breeze carries a temperate cool- 
 nefs on its wing. And this feafon favors more the bringing of 
 their women into view ; when lilence and folitude prevail with- 
 out, and afford them the felfifli fatisfadlion of beholding beauty, 
 without theintrufion of a rival, and tafting of its charms with the 
 avarice of mifers . 
 
 At four o'clock we had a vifit from the hakeem, who only ftaid 
 to enquire after our healths, and to reaffure us of his protedlion. 
 We had determined on making this man a prefent, to fecure his 
 further good offices, and finding that he was averfe to taking any 
 thing but money, we fent him twenty-one Venetians by Ibrahim, 
 with an apology for the fmallnefs of the donation, which had been 
 bounded by our poverty. To our great joy, our domeftic, Abdul 
 RufTar, returned with Ibrahim from the hakeem's houfe. He was 
 obhged to be moved in the arms of the fervants, though we are 
 pleafed to find that his hurts do not portend any ill effects. One 
 of his ankles is quite reduced, and the other promifes fair to admit 
 of his getting abroad in a few days. 
 
 TUBS.
 
 [ 223 ] 
 
 TUESDAY, i2th August. 
 
 The indlfpofition of Abdul RufTar has ah-eady proved very in- 
 convenient to us. Our filver is expended, and we are at a lofs to- 
 exchange our gold for dollars, or to gain any intelligence of what 
 is pafling without doors, during this poor creature's confinement. 
 He often cautions us againfl trufting any of his countrymen in 
 matters of fuch importance ; fenfible as he is of their want of cha- 
 rity for Chriftians. As for Ibrahim, he is as much a prifoner as 
 ourfelves. The hakeem tells him, that he cannot anfwer for 
 his fafety, until the fliaik returns, fhould he fall in the way of 
 our old hofl and his gang. We are too well afcertained, from 
 ocular proof, of the little order which fubfifts here in the ab- 
 fence of the chief, to doubt it. We learn that his return is 
 anxioufly expected by the whole city, and cannot be very diftant, 
 if we may truft to the information of Abdul Ruflar, who fays,, 
 fuch is the temper of this people, and fuch the inftability of this 
 government, fhould the fhaik i^emain for any length of time in 
 another place, the inhabitants of Ghinnah would throw off all 
 fubmifTion to his officers, and fall to cutting each other's throats. 
 What a bleffed land have we dropped into! What a race are 
 we amongft ! who are only to be ruled by the fword, and to 
 be taught humanity at the expence of their blood ! 
 
 We had fcarcely breakfafled when the hakeem entered our 
 apartment, accompanied by a man whom we had frequently 
 feen at Cofire. He had been affiduous in his vifits to us there,, 
 and had proffered us the ufe of his houfe during our flay at Ghin- 
 nah. This the fliaik of Cofire prevented by his intrigues, and 
 the man arrived here yefterday in the caravan. We find he is a 
 merchant of this city, and though, agreeably to the mode of 
 
 Arabian
 
 [ 224 ] 
 
 Arabian travellers, he was wont to afflime a poor habit at Co- 
 fire, we now faw him in a creditable drefs, and feemingly on 
 an intimate footing with the hakeem. He lamented our misfor- 
 tunes, which were the common topic of converfation, and re- 
 proached us for not having accepted of his offers of alhilance. 
 Though he mufl: have been fenfibie that we did not merit this re- 
 proach, while our condu6l was direfted by another, and though 
 we have caufe to be on our guard againft the profeflions of an 
 Arabian, there is little doubt but we Ihould have fared better 
 under this man's prote6lion, than in the vile hands we fell into. 
 Our prefent fituation is far from being difagreeable. The hakeem 
 is civil and attentive to us, and at the fame time does not pefter 
 us with his company, or folicit us for prefents. From 
 this cOndu6l we draw more favorable omens, than from any 
 incident fince the change of our fituation ; and as he confirms 
 the report of the fhaik's approach, we endeavor to refign our- 
 felves with patience, for the accomplifliment of that defirable 
 event. It may be, that our releafe will be at laft owing to 
 the interpofition of Mr. Baldwin at Cairo. We have great 
 expeftations that our letters are both fafely delivered to him. 
 The reward of five dollars, which is to attend the receipt of 
 each, is the flrongeft incentive that could be devifed to fecure the 
 fidelity of the meflengers. But fortune has been fo much out of 
 humor with us of late, that we cannot promjfe ourfelves a return 
 of her fmiles, until they beam upon us. 
 
 Juft as we had laid down to reft, there was a knocking at the 
 outward gate, which we found to be made by the hakeem, who 
 came to borrow one of our fufees. He was mounted on a fine 
 horfe, which I obferved from the window, and was accompa- 
 nied by a party of armed men on foot. He fent us word, 
 that he was going about tlie town to preferve peace and good 
 
 order j
 
 [ 2^5 ] 
 
 order; which is a neceflary pra6tice in cities better regulated 
 than Ghinnah. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, 13th August. 
 
 We arc obliged to be early rifers, in order to receive the com- 
 pany that wait upon us during the cool of the morning. We have 
 generally finiflied our breakfaft by feven o'clock, and at that hour 
 to-day we were fummoned by our fervants to the back terrace, 
 which commands a noble view of the river, to fee a number df 
 boats under fail. Thefe we learnt were the Banute fleet, which 
 arrived here two days after us ; with the foldiers of which our 
 hofl, the vizier, and others, had alarmed us, and forced us to pay 
 down a fum of money, which was falfely charged to their account. 
 They are going down to Jirje, and being chiefly gallies, painted, and 
 gilt, and adorned with ftreamers, they cut no contemptible appear- 
 ance in falling down with the fl:ream, to the amount of twenty 
 boats. We defcried armed troops on the poop of each galley, and 
 heard the drums beating to arms on board. There is a myftery 
 in the accounts of thefe Banute people, which we cannot unravel. 
 Immediately after their departure, we hada vifit from the hakeem, 
 who threw open the windows of our apartments, and told us with 
 a chearful air, that we had now nothing to fear, as the Banute 
 people, wlio are a ifet of thieves, and apt to plunder defencelefs 
 veflels on the river, were failed for Jirje. This defcription nei- 
 ther anfwers the ftay which thefe people made here, nor the good 
 condition of their boats, which is far from befpeaking them to be 
 a needy race. We therefore enquired of the hakeem of the origin 
 and government of Banute -, and were told, that it formerly be- 
 longed to his mafl:er, the Shaik Ul Arab, but had lately been ta- 
 iten poflefllon of by the Turks. This confirmed us in a vague re- 
 
 G g port
 
 [ 226 ] 
 
 port we had heard, of Baimte being really in the hands of Ibra- 
 him Beg. It might confequently be, that the hakeem wifhed for 
 his mafter's return, that juftice might be done us ere we proceed- 
 ed to Cairo ; and was willing to conceal us from the Turks, 
 whom he artfully reprefented as robbers, to prevent our applying 
 to them for a pafTage. So ftrongly had this prepoffeffion taken 
 hold of our minds, that fome among us were not wanting to la- 
 ment our ignorance of this circumftance, and to confider the de- 
 parture of the Banute fleet, as a preclufion to the efcape which 
 we had fo long meditated. 
 
 At five o'clock the hakeem paid us a fecond vifit, in which 
 he was accompanied by two confiderable merchants of the 
 town. They all produced letters from the fliaik, which they 
 told us refpefled our lofTes, and his coming to redrefs our 
 wrongs. When the merchants took their leave, the hakeem afk- 
 ed us, whether we were inclined to take a walk with him to the 
 river-fide. This agreeable invitation my companions were obli- 
 ged to decline, as the rafcals who plundered our trunks, had not 
 left them a Turkifli gown : but I readily accepted of it, as I had 
 a gown that luckily efcaped their fearch. It is eafy to conceive 
 the joy I felt at being reftored to the freedom of the air, after 
 our perilous confinement ; not to mention the good face which 
 our affairs aflumed by this ftep, as the people's intentions mufl: 
 appear to be honeft, who expofed us to the eyes of the town. 
 I accordingly arrayed myfelf in the befl manner, and followed the 
 hakeem, attended by my European fervant and Ibrahim. As 
 we walked towards the river, we were accompanied by a croud of 
 people, who behaved themfelves veiy refpedfully -, awed, perhaps, 
 by the prefence of the hakeem and his guard. We foon left the 
 town, and afcended a dyke which is thrown round it, to prevent 
 it fufFering by the inundations of the Nile. I had the good for- 
 tune to be witnefs to the commencement of this periodical pheno- 
 
 6 menon.
 
 f 227 ] 
 
 menon, by mere chance. From the dyke we defcended to the li- 
 ver, by a pier that extends itfelf to the natural ftrand, and mea- 
 fures fome hundreds of yards in length. At the extremity of this 
 pier we feated ourfelves on carpets, which were fpread for us on 
 the ground, and I had full leifure to furvey the obje6ts around 
 me, the novelty and beauty of which equally engaged my admira- 
 tion. The Nile is originally of a tolerable breadth here, and at 
 other feafons would not difappoint the traveller in his expe6lations 
 of fo celebrated a ftream. But two days ago it began to afTume a 
 grander afpeft. The kitchen-gardens which fupply the town, 
 and ftand in the low grounds, are already overflown ; and feveral 
 channels are opened in the bank, through which the waters ruih 
 with great rapidity, and promife by to-morrow night to fpread 
 themfelves to the dyke, which is at leaft a quarter of a mile dif- 
 tant. The fame efFe6ls feem to have been produced on the oppo- 
 iite fide ; where I obferved the country to be overflown even to 
 the mountain's edge, and the rifmg lands to appear like iflands in 
 the waters. In mid-channel the ftream runs with amazing force; 
 carrying down ruflies, bufhes, and fragments of trees, which the 
 floods have fwept away with them from the heights, and will in 
 a few days difcharge into the Mediterranean. The fun was fallen 
 behind the hills on the weftern banks, from whofe burnifhed tops 
 a dazzling radiance played upon the ruffled waters. The boats 
 glided along their curling furface : the date-groves rung with the 
 amorous cooings of a thoufand doves, and the cattle lowed in the 
 diftant dale. The charms of this lovely evening are beyond my 
 art to depicture, but they will be ever faithfully imprinted on my 
 imagination. At dulk we returned homeward, and I could ob- 
 tain but a very imperfeft fight of Ghinnah from this point of view ; 
 as it ftretches towards the river like the end of a Turkifh flipper, 
 and is fcreened by the dyke from the eye. We pafled by a bridge on 
 our way back, turned on a Angle arch over a creek where the boats 
 
 G g 2 He,
 
 r 228 ] 
 
 lie, and which appears to be a modem work of no elegant 
 defign*. 
 
 *• It'raay not prove' unpleafing to the reader, to compare the obfervations of other 
 travellers on this place and its neighborhood. As we pafled over the defart be- 
 tween Colire and Ghinnah, we can confirm the alTertion of Captain Norden, that 
 there are no remains of the antient canal mentioned by Herodotus and others, to 
 have been dug for conveying goods from the Nile to the Red-fea. Ghinnah and 
 its environs are ftill noted for manufadturing the beft earthen-ware in Egj'pt ; in 
 the bottoms of which, the fame peculiarity fubfifts as related by Dr. Pococke. 
 
 " At two o'clockin the afternoon there. cameon a calm, which obliged us to land 
 on the fame fide, a little below Giene, or Kiene, a town, which is not at prefent 
 very confiderable, but which has, however, a mofque. There was formerly in this 
 place a great commerce 5 for they had made a road which led to Cofire, a port of 
 the Red-fea} and in three days they croffed the defarts of Thebais. But it prefent 
 this route is not fecure, on account of the robbers. 
 
 " I had been told much of the antiquities of this place, which engaged me to go 
 thither J but I found nothing there. The inhabitants themfelves of the place could 
 . give me no account of them. In vain did I feek for the antient canal that was dug For 
 conveying merchandizes to the Red-fea, and for bringing others from thence by this 
 means. I did not perceive the leaft mark of it, neitlier in the town, nor in the adja-? 
 cent places. It is in this town they celebrate every year the great feftival, at which 
 the Bey of Girge is commonly prefent ; but not without having firfl: obtained per- 
 miflion from the Arab princes or Schechs. ' 
 
 " I perceived that all the neighboring places oiG'iene were covered with all forts of 
 plants, fuch as pompions, coloquintidas, and others, which were, for the moftpart, 
 unknown to me. As I did not fee any corn there, I imagined that they had cut itj 
 and that the plants which I perceived, were the fecond produft of the ground. 
 
 " There were in the neighborhood of the town divers poirds, in which water was* 
 preferred after the inundation ; but it was not good for drinking. It had a brackifli: 
 tafte, which it takes from the foil itfelf ;" and indeed the inhabitants do not ufe 
 it for any other purpofe than watering their grounds, and giving drink to theic 
 cattle." Norden's Travels in Egypt, &c. vol. ii. 
 
 " We now purfued our voyage with a fine wind, and pafTed by the canal that 
 joes to the city'of Coptos, which is at prefent remarkable for making the beft ear- 
 then-ware in Egypt, it being very light and much efteemed; but they could never 
 be prevailed on to make the vafes with broad bottoms, that they might fland without 
 danger of falling ; fo that the people are obliged to fet. them in wooden frames." 
 Pococke's Travels, chap, vi, 
 
 1 I found'
 
 [ 229 ] 
 
 .1 found myfelf rather fatigued from my walk, and was glad of 
 the approach of our hour of repofe, which, for want of candle- 
 light, we are obliged to anticipate as foon as the day is clofed. 
 But we were awakened from our firft deep by the founds of tink- 
 ling inftruments, accompanied by a chorus of female voices. I 
 looked out of the window, and faw a band of thirty damfels at 
 leaft, come tripping towards us, with meafured paces, and ani- 
 mated geftures. The moon fhone very bright, and we had a full 
 vievy of them, from their entering the gate of our ftreet, vmtil 
 they reached our houfe. Here they flopped, and fpreading them- 
 felves in a circle before the door, renewed the dance and fong 
 with infinite fpirit,7and recalled to our minds the piflure which 
 is fo fully given of thefe. dancing females in holy writ. After 
 they had favored us a few minutes with their lively perform* 
 ance, they moved on to the hakeem's houfe, and ferenading 
 him with an air or two,. this joyous band quitted our quarter, 
 and went, as the dying founds informed us, to awaken the other 
 (lumberers of the town, to melody and joy ! Thefe are certainly 
 the defendants of the women of Ifrael, whofe beauty and Ikill 
 gladdened the heart of the fapient king. The dancing girls of 
 India are not to be fpoken of at the fame time : they are but an 
 illegitimate race, were their excellencies to be compared with thofe 
 of the nymphs of the Nile. Had thefe figures prefented themfelves to 
 me in a vifion, I fhould have concluded that they were the fair 
 inhabitants of our manfion, who were come to demand the 
 reftitution of their late pofiefllons ! 
 
 THURSDAY, 14th August. 
 
 We were impatient to know the caufe of the agreeable dif--; 
 turbance we met with laft night, and learnt from one of ou:e 
 guard, that the dancing girls obferve the ceremony we were wit^ ' 
 
 nefs
 
 [ 230 ] 
 
 nefs to, on the firft vifible rife of the Nile. It feems that they 
 took our houfe in their way to the river, where they went down 
 to bathe at that late hour, and to fing the praifes of the benevo- 
 lent Power, who yearly diftributes his waters to fupply the necef- 
 fities of the native. 
 
 It is defigned, to all appearance, that we fhall meet with no 
 friends in this inhofpitable region, or immediately lofe the pro- 
 tection of thofe who have difplayed a ray of humanity for us. 
 We were but this morning congratulating ourfelves, on having 
 fallen into the hands of a good man, who has not only refcued 
 us from the houfe of a villain, but has even fheltered us under 
 his own roof. He had yefterday admired a couple of carpets be- 
 longing to Mr. Hammond and me. We had fent them to 
 him after breakfall, when he paid us a vifit to thank us for our 
 attention. He came efcorted by a large train, little dreaming" 
 how fliortly his glories would fet, which now flione forth in 
 meridian luftre. The change in his fortune was announced to us 
 about five o'clock in the afternoon, when feveral ftrange fervants- 
 came to our houfe. Their errand was to advife us of the ap- 
 proach of a new hakeem, who was fent by the fhaik to difplace 
 our friend, and meant to take up his quarters for the night, in 
 the back part of our habitation. While we were forming conjec- 
 tures on this fudden event, feveral of the principal merchants of 
 the town vifited us, to confii'm the news. They affured us, that 
 the fliaik had particularly charged this new officer with our 
 affairs, and had difmiffed the old hakeem from his employment,'' 
 for having fuffered European travellers to be plundered, and de-'^ 
 tained within his jurildiflion. In our own minds, we would^ 
 readily have difpenfed with this feverity, to a man who had 
 rendered us the moll material fervices. Moreover, we could not 
 but fufpeft, that the intereft of the vizier, and others who had 
 benefited by our arrival, had prevailed againft the more honeft 
 
 chara<Sler
 
 [ 231 1 
 
 character that had exerted itfelf in our behalf. This reflection 
 wounded us deeply, as the truth of it might reduce us to our 
 former defperate fituation. Confidering the bad treatment we had 
 met with, it is not ftrange that we fhould be jealous of any innovai^ 
 tion in the protection which had been lately extended to us ; and,' 
 in our experience of this tribe, that we fliould doubt of finding 
 a fecond man of moderation among the officers of government. 
 
 About fun-fet the new hakeem arrived, and fent us word that* 
 he was ready to receive us. This is the firft vifit we had paid to 
 another. We found him feated upon a carpet on the back ter^^ 
 race, with a crowd of people about him. He is an elderly man,*^ 
 tall, thin, and of a mean appearance; diftant in his behavior,'^ 
 and feemingly full of his own confequence. This may pofllbly 
 arife from thelownefs of his origin, which is that of an Abyf-' 
 fmian flave. His deportment was fo different from that which 
 diftinguifhed his predeceffor in office, that we could not but look 
 upon him as an arrogant upftart, who promifcd to abufe the fa- 
 vour of his lord. He condefcended, however, to tell us, with a 
 fmile, that his mafter had recommended us to his good offices, 
 and had dire6led that the ftrideft juftice fhould be rendered to 
 us. While we ftaid, a number of perfons came to pay their 
 compliments to him, among which was Sauker, one of the raf- 
 cals who had affifted the two brothers to pillage our baggage. 
 By this effrontery he perhaps expefts to efcape fufpicion ; and 
 to intimidate us by his prefence, from bringing a charge againft 
 him. We foon retired to our apartment, and found that the 
 vizier, among others, made his court to this new magiftrate. 
 Nothing can be a more diredl implication of the arbitrary gd-^ 
 vernment we are under, than the promotion of this Abyffmian 
 to one of its firft dignities. When Charles of Sweden, the moft 
 defpotic monarch of his age, wrote to the fenate of Stockholm, 
 that he would fend his jack-boot to prefide over them ; ungrate- 
 ful
 
 [ 232 ] 
 
 ful as the idea was, it furely was lefs humiliating, than if he had 
 threatened to difpatch a Turkifli flave from Bender for that pur- 
 pofe. And yet we were now witnefs to the univerfal homage that 
 may be paid to fuch a charafter. The fuddennefs «f his arrival, 
 and the refpedl which he commands, no doubt befpeak, that he 
 is charged with fome important bufmefs ; but we fhould be 
 pleafed to depart, without waiting the iffiie of his errand, though 
 it prove to be the reftitution of our lofles. The fhaik, it feems, is 
 but a day's journey hence : but we fear we fhall be neceflitated to 
 wait his arrival, which the critical fituation of his affairs ftill 
 renders uncertain. 
 
 We have not feen our old friend fince his difgrace, but we fent 
 Ibrahim to make him our acknowledgments and good wifhes. He 
 feemed much flattered with a mark of attention, fo new to a perfon 
 in his condition ; and returned us affurances, that he will repre- 
 fent our ftoiy in its true colors to the fhaik, for whofe court he is 
 to fet off to-morrow or next day. This kind interpofition may 
 ferve to advance our fuit ; and we underftand that we fhall then 
 get rid of the company of our new guefl:, who goes into the 
 hjoufe of his predeceflbr, on the latter's departure. His fervants 
 let off fome paltry fire-works at night behind the houfe, for 
 which they demanded a gratification. They were cunning enough 
 to call that a compliment to us, which was more likely intended 
 for their maflerj and we were glad to be releafed from their 
 impertinence, at the expence of a few filrer pieces, of the value 
 of a penny apiece. 
 
 FRIDAY, 15th August, 
 
 V/e do not find that we are likely to be as foon quit of our 
 ^ueft, as we at firft expefted. There is no talk of his moving 
 
 this
 
 L 233 ] 
 
 this morning, and as it appears to depend upon the departure of 
 his predeceffor, we may have the pleafure of his company for 
 fome days longer. This is a fad reftraint upon us, who are 
 confined to the front of the houfe, which confifls of two fmall 
 apartments for ourfelves, and one, more roomy, for our fer- 
 vants. Nor are we free from apprehenfions, left fome difcovery 
 fliould be rnade to ciir difadvantage. The hakeem's fervants are 
 continually mingling with ours, and may draw inferences of our 
 abounding with money from our manner of living, if not from 
 the imprudence of our people, whofe fimplicity may betray us, 
 notwithftanding the cautions we have given them on this head. 
 
 Juft as we had dined, an order came from the hakeem to clear 
 the room which our fervants were in, for the reception of fome 
 travellers. This, at the time, was a very difagreeable command 
 to us, though it may turn out as much to our benefit, as any thing 
 which has occurred fince our arrival here. The travellers prove 
 to be a company of Turks, on their return to Cairo, from an ex- 
 curfion into this country. There is a man of confequence among 
 them, who, on notice of our being here, immediately fent fome 
 of his attendants to enquire into our bufinefs in this quarter. It 
 may be fuppofed that we were very particular in the narration of 
 our troubles, and the ill ufage we had met with. The politenefs 
 and humanity of thefe Turks were very ftriking to us, who had fo 
 long experienced nothing but rudenefs and barbarity from the hu- 
 man race. They regretted the impoflibility of having our com- 
 pany on the road, without the permiffion of the Shaik Ul Arab ; 
 and were hurt at the thoughts of leaving us among a people, whom 
 t|iey feemed to have no opinion of. But they promifed to repre- 
 fent our cafe to the bey of Cairo, and to exert all their intereft with 
 him to demand our releafe from the fliaik. They acknowledged, 
 however, that the reafons for detaining us until the fliaik's arrival, 
 may be very good, as the river is at prefent fo infefted with pirates, 
 
 H h that
 
 ' [ 2H ] 
 
 that they are obliged themfelves to go by land to Cairo. There is 
 a Chiiflian among them, who has charged himfelf with a third 
 letter, which we have addrefled to Mr. Baldwin from this city. 
 He is a confidential domeftic, and, by his influence, has prevailed 
 upon the Turk his mafter, to write to the fhaik in our behalf, to 
 ftate our uncomfortable condition, and to advife him to difpatch 
 us forthwith to Cairo, as we are content to leave the punifhment 
 of our oppreflbrs to his difcretion. Heaven knows what effe<ft 
 this kind mediation may have with the fhaik ; but we have long 
 fufpeflred that our releafe can only be accomplilhed from Cairo ; 
 and are flocking ourfelves with a fund of patience to fupport 
 us in the tedious interval. The Journey by land, we are told, is 
 from ten to twelve days, and the Turks propofe to fet off at day- 
 break. Allowing, therefore, three days for obtaining an order 
 from the bey in our favor, three weeks at leafl mufl elapfe, be- 
 fore the return of the anfwer which is to fet us at liberty. But 
 Hope, the deceiver Hope! fometimes whifpers better things in 
 our ears ; and as we are importunate in our defires to be fent 
 away, we are inclined to expeft the fhaik will not detain us after 
 his arrival at Ghinnah. 
 
 V ■' 
 
 SATURDAY, i6th August. 
 
 The Turks have deferred their departure until night, which, 
 on account of our reliance on their good offices at Cairo, and 
 their delivery of our letter, has given us more vexation than the 
 matter may defei-ve. The itch of avarice appears to have infed- 
 ed the mafs of the people we are among, from the highefl to the 
 lowefl. The new hakeem, though an AbafTee, and a flave to the 
 Ihaik, cannot refift the difeafe, and is already fingering, in idea, 
 the gold and valuables which he conceives us to pofTefs. He fent 
 
 for
 
 ' [ 235 1 
 
 for Ibrahim at midnight, and queftioned him clofely toycliing 
 our circumftances, and the prefpnts we made to his predeceflor .: 
 and, laflly, tf we had any offering left for himfelf. Ibrahim, iu 
 conformity to his inftru6liQns, reprefentcd the poverty we wer^e 
 reduced to, and which utterly difabled us from tendering any 
 thing worthy the hakeem's acceptance. He difclaimed all know- 
 ledge of our having given either money or goods to the quondam 
 hakeem, though he found that this man had got an item of the 
 removal of our carpets. It is a bitter comfort to us to obferve, 
 •that the man who was fent down by the fliaik to prote6l us, fliould 
 be the firft to attempt our property. The fubflance of this mer- 
 cenary interview we received from Ibrahim, while we were at 
 breakfaft. 
 
 We had vifits to-day from feveral of the Turkifh gentlemen, 
 who are in the fuite of the grandee. They repeated their tenders 
 of fei-vice on their arrival at Cairo. A very line Georgian boy is 
 in the train, whofe beautiful features and fair complexion eafily 
 diflinguifli him from the Turks. He is a ilave, and, we under- 
 ftand, is in high favor with his mafter. 
 
 As the hakeem had offered us the liberty of going abroad, when- 
 ever we pleafed to apply to him for a fervant to prote<5l us, at five 
 o'clock Mr. Hammond, who was now equipped with a cloak, ac- 
 companied by myfelf, Ibrahim, and the hakeem's fervant, fallied 
 forth. We dire6led our fteps to the bazar, or market-place, 
 and entered a caravanfera, which attra6led our curiofity. Thefe 
 buildings are receptacles for travellers, and are either erefted at 
 the public expence, or by the donations of private people. The 
 one we faw was a veiy large flru6lure. Its entrance was through 
 a flone gateway, which led into a fquare court, furounded by 
 apartments of two ftories. The ground-floor was open in front, 
 and thrown upon arches, and divided into different rooms, by a 
 baluflrade of flone. The back part was clofed, and appropri- 
 
 H h 2 ated
 
 [ «36 ] 
 
 ated for warehoufes for the merchant. Beneath one of thefe 
 arches we found a Turk fitting, whom we had left at Yambo, 
 and who had once put it into our heads to come by this inaufpi- 
 cious route to Cairo. We immediately recognized one another, 
 and were very hearty in our congratulations on tliis unexpefted 
 meeting. He took us into his apartment, and placing coffee 
 before us, very kindly condoled with us on our misfortunes, which 
 had reached his ears. We find that he remains here, on account 
 of the da;:gers on the river. After prefTmg this Turk to vifit us 
 frequently, we took our leave, and walked without any interrup- 
 tion to the river. Here we went on board a boat, which waits 
 for a lading of coffee for the Cairo market. This boat is one of 
 the moft convenient I ever faw. She has two cabbins, befides an 
 awning of matts, thatextends to her main-maft. The roof is high, 
 and, with the fides, handfomely carved and painted. We were 
 politely received by the nokidah, who faid he hoped for our com- 
 pany to Cairo. We fhould rejoice much to be accommodated in 
 this manner in our voyage down the Nile. It was from this boat 
 that the view of Ghinnah, which is annexed, was taken. At fun- 
 fet we returned home, and found our good friends the Turks were 
 preparing to decamp. At nine o'clock they mounted their camels 
 to the number of twenty, well armed, and went off with the benefit 
 of a fine moon, which renders ti'avelling at night very delightful 
 in thefe ferene climates. The chief of the Turks rode on a fine 
 dun camel, and was followed on another by the fprightly Georgi- 
 an, well accoutered with a fcimitar and a matchlock* 
 
 SUNDAY, 17th August. 
 
 The hakeem has aftually fixed his refidence at our houfe, and 
 means, we fuppofe, to take good care of us and our baggage. 
 When the Turks went away, he took pofTefTion himfelf of their 
 
 apartment^
 
 rtl
 
 C 237 ] 
 
 apartment, which was before occupied by our fervants. We are 
 .now reduced to an uncomfortable fituation, and cannot enjoy a 
 moment's privacy, but during the hours of meals and repofe. But 
 we are determined to fufFer no further inconvenience from the vi- 
 .cinity of the hakeem. We have accordingly dire6led our fervants 
 to take up their lodgings at night on the terrace which extends 
 itfelf over our apartments, and which we often afcend in the 
 evening, to obtain a view of the country. 
 
 We were furprized with an early vifit from the Turk, whom we 
 had encountered at the camvanfera yeflerday, and were much pleaf- 
 ed with this mark of his attention. He now gave us the particulai's 
 of fome tranfa6lions at Yambo, which nearly concerned us, and 
 which proved very fatisfaftory, in refpe6t to the meafures which 
 .we had taken with Lt. * * *. The reader will remember our fepa- 
 ration in the Red-fea, and the melancholy circmnftanccs which 
 reduced us to the neceffityof returning him to Yambo, on a boat 
 .bound to that port. On his arrival at Yambo, it appears, that 
 his madnefs broke out with more violence than ever. Inftead of 
 ; waiting for the boat's coming to an anchor, he Jumped over- 
 board at the entrance of the harbor, and fwam to the beach be- 
 low the town j and would have made his way into the country, 
 had he not been purfued by fome of the mariners, who overtook 
 him, and carried him before the vizier of Yambo. This was the 
 feeond time he had been brought to this minifter in this extraordi- 
 nary manner, and within the compafs of a few days. His mif- 
 fortune had been more than fufpefted on the former occafion y 
 but it was now communicated to the minifter by the nokidah of 
 .the boat, who was charged with our meflage, to requeft that 
 _Lt. * * * might be fent on the firft velTel to Judda. On his com- 
 .ing into the vizier's prefence, he gravely demanded to be made a 
 .Muffulman, and to be entertained in the fervice of the xerif. Tiiis 
 • reqaefl: luckjly could not be complied with by the IVIahometan 
 
 lavv»,
 
 C 238 ] 
 
 law, uhlch docs not admit of converts, who are deprived of the f»- 
 colty to judge between right -and wrong. Neither does it now ^a- 
 blifli its faith by the means of the fword. So different are the prin- 
 ciples of the fame feft, when the flame of bhnd zeal has abated of 
 its ardor. It happens, however, that the unhappy victims of mad- 
 nefs meet with an attention in this counti y, that is not paid to ra- 
 tional beings. They are confidered as infpir«d, becaufe hurried 
 beyond the precincts of reafon ; and though they ftill ferve as a 
 butt of ridicule to the fhafts of the vulgar, they are fecured by 
 their fituation from the fhadow of an injury. On this principle 
 the vizier afled. From his own wardrobe he gave the turban a^id 
 Arabian drefs to Qur unfortunate companion, to humor his fren- 
 zy, and fent him fafely to Judda, full of the idea of • having be- 
 come a follower of Mahomet. Poor youth ! to what joy and fa- 
 tisfa6lion wilt thou hereafter awake, fliould it pleafe God to reftore 
 thee to thy fenfes. What will thy fenfations be, to confider the 
 pafl: as no more than a dream ; to refleft on the dangerous abyfs 
 that thou haft efcaped, by the interpofition of the Divine hand ! It 
 muft occur to every human mind, that the news of his fafety was 
 the moft pleafmg mufic to our ears. Driven by ftern neceflity to 
 a feparation with him, when his condition wzs truly deplorable, 
 we could not but admire at the happy turn which matters had 
 taken. We had acted for the beft in fending Lt. * * * back to 
 Judda; and could not but rejoice at the intelhgence which now 
 reached us, of his being gone thither under proper protedion. 
 Had he lefs fortunately remained with us ; had he been expofed 
 to a month's fun in an open boat ; had he vifited the coafts of 
 Eg)'pt ; toiled with the caravan over the defart, and experienced 
 the opprcflion we have met with at Ghinnah, it is impofTible that 
 his intelle6ls could have withftood the complicated fhock, and a 
 confirmed madnefs, or perhaps death, would have enfued ! Where- 
 as every good confequcnce is to be expefted from the ftep we 
 9 took i
 
 [ 239 ] 
 
 took } every afliftance will be given him by the furgeon of the 
 Swallow floop, which was luckily at Judda ; and we can pro- 
 mife ourfelves that he was hofpitably received by our friend Cap- 
 tain Bacon, and even accommodated with a paffage to Bombay, 
 fhould the Adventure be bound to that port *. We alfo learn 
 from this Turk, that the nokidah of our boat was more to blame 
 than the vizier of Yambo, that we did not attempt to get to Suez. 
 He went to the vizier while we were at anchor at the mouth of 
 the harbor, and told him that he could reach no port but Cofue ! 
 In the evening the major fallied out in an Arabian drefs, 
 ■which he made here, accompanied by Ibrahim and our ufual 
 guard. He returned with two Chriftian merchants, whom he 
 liad got acquainted with. They are perfons of credit here, 
 and very civilly invited us to repay their vifit. 
 
 MONDAY, 1 8th August. 
 
 We were difturbed at midnight by a knocking at the doory 
 which proved to be the hakeem and Ibrahim, whom he had called 
 -tip to attend him. This was the firft vifit he had paid us, and was 
 ' as difagreeable as unexpefted. We at once gueffed the purport of 
 'it. He is a plain man, and did not ufe much ceremony in intro- 
 ducing what he had fo much at heart. But we were at a lofs 
 what to offer him, that could be acceptable. Money he pre- 
 tended to decline taking, and we, with equal artiiice, pretended 
 that we had none. There were two fets of fdver buttons, and 
 two filver chains, which belonged to the regimentals and fwords 
 of the major, and which had efcaped pillage. Thefe we produ- 
 -ced, as the only remains of our goods which were of value j 
 
 * The humane reader will rejoice with us, to know, that our deflgns rcipe<Sling our 
 unfortunate companion were fully anfwered. That he found Captain Bacon at Judda, 
 andreturnedin the Adventure to Bombay, recovered of his frenzy. 
 
 " though
 
 [ 240 ] 
 
 tliOLigh we promifed to acknowledge his fervices in a better 
 aiianner from Cairo, fhould he procure an order froni the fhaik 
 for our immediate departure. The weight of thefe toys attraCled 
 jiis notice, though he did not feem to admire their workman- 
 /liip, which was none of the beft. He however put them into 
 his bofom, and dehred to look at fome of our cloaths. But 
 fo particular was this fellow, that he could not be prevailed 
 upon to peep into our trunks ; and fo fcrupulous, that he would 
 not receive afmgle thing, until we put it into his hands. A pretty 
 falvo truly, for his confcience, which gral'ped at all in our pof- 
 feflion ! Befides the filver articles, he cawied away three broad- 
 cloth coats of different colors, and two filk tambour waiftcoats — 
 for the purpofe, we imagine, of covering his pipes, and the fcab- 
 bards of his fwords — and half a dozen cambric handkerchiefs for 
 his own ufe. In confideration of this prefent, he has undertaken 
 to write to his mafter, for permiflion to fend us away by land, 
 which is the only fafe track at prefent. It is not without extreme 
 compunction that we forego the eafe and pleafure of a voyage 
 down the Nile, to encounter the dangers and hardlhips of tlie 
 defart. But we forefee no end to our detention here, while we 
 depend upon the river for a conveyance ; and readily acquiefced 
 in the hakeem's propofal, who about one o'clock left us to finilh 
 our repofe. 
 
 Before we were up we had a vifit from the friendly Chriftians, 
 who brought us a prefent of fine milk, and made us an hearty 
 tender of their fervices during our flay here. There is an honeft 
 fimpUcity in thefe men, that affords us infinite fatisfaclion -, and 
 we fuppofe it was the apprehenfion of immediate danger to them- 
 felves, which with-held their good offices, when we flood fo 
 much more in need of them. 
 
 Behold the juflice of divine Providence ! which often punifhes 
 the iniquities of mankind, by their very accomplices in guilt. A 
 
 retribution
 
 [ 241 J 
 
 retribution the more dreadful, as the villain who breaks through 
 every tie himfelf which links man to man, is not yet fo hardened 
 as* to be proof to a breach of confidence in another. The blovy^ 
 which is given by the public executioner, is weak, when com- 
 pared to that which comes from the hand of a friend. There is 
 intelligence juft arrived from Cofire, that the merchant Maho- 
 met, who invited us to his houfe to plunder us, and who had re- 
 turned in the laft caravan to that place, is fo defperately wounded, 
 that his life is defpaired of. The quarrel arofe between him and 
 fome of his confederates, touching the divifion of our fpoils. 
 His brother Ally and his father were this day examined before 
 the hakeem, on the fubjeft of their ill ufage of us. The refult 
 we have not learnt ; but it cannot be very dangerous to them, asl 
 wie find Ally has obtained leave to attend his dying brother. 
 ■ In the afternoon the hakeem, and two merchants of the town 
 in the confidence of the fliaik, came to our apartment to take a 
 lift of the things we have loft. This they advife one of us to cany 
 to the fhaik, and to make him a formal tender of the whole. This 
 errand would be readily adopted by us, had we any thing fit to 
 prefent to him, agreeably to the Eaftern cuftom. Thefe people 
 looked into our trunks for this purpofe ; but finding us bare of 
 valuables, they gave us hopes of being difpatched without paying 
 this great vifit. 
 
 TUESDAY, 19th August. 
 
 Some further particulars relative to the misfortune of Mahb'- 
 met, were communicated to us this morning. We learn, to 
 our furprlze, that the young fhaik of Cofire, and the foldier 
 ivhcr fto'le the major's fword, were the principals in the aflault. 
 They went in company with Mahomet to Cofire, and were 
 conftantly foHciting of him a proportion of the money which 
 
 I i he
 
 [ 242 ]] 
 
 he had obtained from US. This he had the imprudence to de- 
 cline i and on their finding he was deaf to their argupients, they 
 one day took an opportunity to feduce him from the caravan, 
 and attacking him jointly, they cut him defperately with their 
 fwords. There is no doubt but he defended himfelf manfully j 
 but his ftrength and refolution could not avail him againft th,is. 
 cowardly proceeding. The affafiins have efcaped to Cofire, but 
 the.foldier's relations, who live here, have been feized by the qf-> 
 der of the government. In cafe of Mahomet's death, however, 
 we find a pecuniary mylct will preferve the murderers from the 
 punifli ment due to their crimes. 
 
 -.(This ftory affords a truer picture of the difpofitions and man- 
 ners of the Arabs, than volumes could portray oji fuch a fubje^., 
 We refled with hoiTor, on the connexion which fubfifted be- 
 tween us and the delinquents in queflion ; and confider our ef- 
 cape froni t;],iem, as altogether unexampled and miraculous. It 
 isnow plain ^^hat, they could, meditate the plunder of our bag- 
 gage; and yve might have fallen a facrifice in the defart, with 
 much lefs danger to them, than the deceafed Mahomet, whofe 
 family will exafl revenge. 
 
 •^ ^We had another vifit from oar Turkifh acquaintanqe at theca - 
 ravanfera. From him we have obtained a very extraordinary and 
 alarming piece of intelligence. Since our arrival here, we had 
 received confufed accounts of Ibrahim Beg's abfence from Cairo i 
 but we could never get to the bottom of the ftory. It now ap- 
 pears, that for this month paft, Egypt has been the feat of a bloody 
 and;Obftinate civil w^r» Ifmaul Beg took on him to affume the 
 government of Caii'o, by the connivance of the Porte ; but th^ 
 late. Bey Ibrahim difputed the ufurpation, and appeared in 
 arms to maintain his own title. The matter was contefte4 
 in ,a defperate battle without the walls of Cairo, and ended in 
 the defeat^^ybr^h^nxJ^,^,pl^p^Q^i^d u^^^^ is 
 
 now
 
 now in a'^pl'<3vi#icfe''HCt three days march from this place." In- 
 ftead of pirates; infefting the river, we underftand, that thedangfet^ 
 arifes from the'foldiers of Ibrahim Beg, who are raifirf^ coYitfi-' 
 butions upon iti The Turk tells us, that the gallies which fell 
 down hence fome days ago, were commanded by Muftapha Beg,' 
 who is in the intereft of the depofed Ibrahim, and is gone to 
 join him. But it is not poflible, that the fugitive chiefs call 
 long withftand their fuccefsful opponent; whofe army is alr«Jady' 
 ftrengthened by a large detachment of the Grand Signior s forces!' 
 We' underftand tobji that the Shaik Ul Arab has acknowledged^ 
 Ifmaul Beg, which accounts for the bad character that was giver^ 
 us here of tlie Banute people, who are of the other party. It 
 alfo ftrikes us forcibly, that the letters which we produced foP 
 Ibrahim Beg, were onecaufe of the ill treatment we experienced 
 from the vizier and his aflbciates. The fhaik was outof reach of 
 our complaints, and Ibrahim Beg, our only friend befide, not in' 
 a fituation to redi-efs them. We had a contrary idea when we' 
 boafted of thefe letters J and muft acknowledge the uncertainty 
 of human conjeflure, which errs in matters apparently the moft 
 obvious, '"' 
 
 This fudden revolution creates no furprize in a country un- 
 fettled in its government, and divided by the jarring intereftsof a' 
 fitimber of petty princes. But to us it is a matter of ferioiis re- 
 flediion. We hear, indeed, that the European factories are uh- 
 difturbed^at Cairo. But how far the influence of Mr. Baldwin 
 will prevail with the new bey, or how we fliall reach the capital; 
 throvigh the diforders of a country, agitated by oppofirig fac- 
 tions, and laid wafte by the fword of rebellion, We are at a lofs 
 to determine. Danger befets us on every fide. Public commo- 
 tions are united to private perfecutions, to compleat our diftrefs •' 
 and the moft alarming circumfta'nce of our affairs feems to bei' 
 that we are ^it the mercy of two fimple though honeft MufTuImen/ 
 'orW I i 2 our
 
 C 244 ]/ 
 
 our domeftics. They have hitherto preferved their fidelity to 
 «s } but fuch is the frailty of human nature, that a long refi- 
 dence here may have a bad effeft on their morals j expofed as 
 they are to the artifices, and obliged as they are to mingle in the 
 fociety of this fraudulent tribe. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, a'cth AtJG-^sT. 
 
 We had an early vifit from the hakeem this morning, who 
 brought us a plate of raifins of the fun, which are produced in 
 Lower Egypt. He came, feemingly full of the fcheme of 
 one of us going to the fhaik, and propofed fending a boat up 
 to-day on this fervice. We readily fell into this meafure, which, 
 notwithftanding the obje61:ions that were made to it yefterday, 
 I have long confidered as abfolutely neceiTary to our immediate 
 releafe. Little can be done with the minifters of Eaftern princes, 
 whofe hands are tied by the awe which they ftand in of their 
 mafters, or whofe minds are fo habituated to the receipt of pre- 
 fents, , that nothing Ihort of the whole fubftance of the peti-. 
 tioner, can fatisfy their avarice. I made a tender of my fervices 
 on this occafion ; not more from a principle of curiofity, than a 
 defire of hallening our departure ; and was happy to find that 
 tjiey were accepted of by my companions. 
 
 In the afternoon we had a vifit from the quondcun hakeem, 
 whofe advice we have conftantly folicited fince his difgrace. As' 
 he can now have no felfifh intereft in our concerns, we are in- 
 clined to place more confidence In him, than when we were at. 
 his difcretion. He has bufinefs with the fhaik, and has kindly, 
 promifed to accompany me on this embafly. He is well ac- 
 quainted with our ftory, and if he is as much our friend as we 
 take him to be, he may quicken the difpatch of our bufinefs, by 
 a candid reprefentation of fa^s. He tells us, that the place of - 
 5 the
 
 ll 245 1 
 
 the fliaik's prefent refidence, called Ghofe, is but feven or eight 
 hours journey by water, and that we fhall be abfent but two 
 days from hence. 
 
 The day pafled away without another meffage from the ha- 
 keem, or any preparation for my journey. 
 
 THURSDAY, 21ft August. 
 
 There is no end to the prevarication of thefe people. The 
 more eameft we are to go in perfon to the Ihaik, the lefs willing 
 they are to admit of it ; and it is likely, after all, that we fhall 
 be jiift where we were before the new hakeem arrived. He told 
 Ibrahim this morning, that he was looking out for a boat to 
 convey me to the fhaik, but it was uncertain when he lliould 
 procure one. This excufe, from a man who can certainly com- 
 mand every boat belonging to Ghinnah, is next to waving the 
 vifit altogether. 
 
 A funeral proceflion pafTed our houfe about noon, which wa^ 
 veiy folemn and numerous. The corpfe was preceded by troops of .' 
 women, who went vailed, and at certain intervals, uttered a choral 
 cry, which was accompanied by expreffive a6lion. The coffin 
 was borne by fome of the friends of the deceafed, and feveral 
 little flags of diiferent colors were carried around it. A body of 
 priefts clofed the proceflion, who recited aloud pafTages from the 
 Alcoran, as they walked along. Muflulmen never negledt to 
 fliew their fenfe of thefe fights ; and perhaps it would prove of ^ 
 no detriment to Chriftians, to imbibe fome of their cuftoms oii 
 thefe occafions. There was an Arabian merchant on a viiit to' 
 us, when the funeral went by; and though in company with 
 ftrangers, he was not afhamed to run to the window, and to join ' 
 audibly in the devotions of the train. It is true, that the ob- 
 fervance of thefe forms, makes not the Arabs better members 
 
 of
 
 of foei^t/; "fiiatlf Heitli^t^checks their ■pi'6^)eKn't^ tcTli^aa^; 'iibr 
 infills one benevolent idea into their breafls, towards the Votaries 
 of a different perfuafion. But ftill it throws a decency into 
 their difcouife, a fobriety into their manners, which is very per- 
 fuafive. They poflefs, what may be called, the graces pf reli- 
 gion, which would better adorn a good Chriftian, whofe temper 
 is charitable, and whofe heart unknowing of deceit ! 
 
 Jufl as we fate down to dinner, the hakeem fent for Ibrahim, 
 and told him, that he expefted an anfwer from the fhaik to- 
 day or to-morrow, which, perhaps, would fave me the trouble of 
 waiting on him. This is what we dreaded ; but I fear, there is 
 no rebellijig againft this man's will ; and we mull endeavor' 
 fome way or other to fix him in our intereft. In the evening 
 Mr. Hammond and I went to the caravanfera, to pay our com- 
 pliments to our Turkifh acquaintance. He received us with his 
 ufual civility. The chance of proceeding to Cairo by the Nile, 
 feems to be much againft us, on account of the difturbances. 
 We fhould, therefore, be very happy in the Turk's company in 
 our journey by land, as his knowledge of the language and 
 cuftoms of the country, would be a great defence to us againft 
 the inconveniences of the load. His circumftances, however, 
 will by no means afford the expence of five camels, which the 
 coffee he has would require; and he is content to wait the 
 ilfue of the difputes upon the river. We could not converfe on 
 fo delicate a fubjecl in a public place, and have therefore defired 
 the favor of his company in the morning, when we fhall pro- 
 pofe to pay for his camel-hire, fliould he confent to make one 
 of our party. This is to be kept a profound fecret. Though 
 fifty dollars can be no objecl to us, when compared to the fer- 
 vices we are likely to reap from his prefence, we muft, at all 
 events, conceal a circumftance from the hakeem, which would 
 fufficiently denote the ftrength of our refources. 
 
 As
 
 [ 247 ] 
 
 As we were going to bed, we had a vifit from the hakeem, 
 who is very myfterious in his hours of communicating with us^ii 
 To our great joy, he did not touch on the ufual firing of pre-,t 
 fents ; but came, as he faid, to fatisfy our minds of his inten- 
 tions to fend us under a fafe condudl to Cairo, when he received 
 the fliaik's fan6lion for fuch aftep. j 
 
 FRIDAY, 22d August. 
 
 The hakeem fent for Ibrahim at day-break, and founded hinv> 
 refpe£ling the valuables in our poffefTion, which might be worth 
 his acceptance. We have ah'eady promifed to fend him a rem- 
 nant of broad-cloath, and fome India goods, on our arrival at 
 Cairo, by the return of the guard which he is to give us for our 
 protefVion. But the native difpofition of thefe people renders 
 them fufpicious of the profelTions of others. He, who does not 
 hold himfelf bound by a promife, will not give another credit 
 for the performance of one, which may be broken with impu^'' 
 n,ity. . The hakeem, therefore, wants to abfolve us of this 
 diftant obligation, provided we come down immediately with 
 fomething of equal value. Generous man ! how he confults the 
 interefts of perfons immediately under his prote6lit>n ! What hu- 
 mane endeavours he daily exerts to render juflice to diftrefTed 
 ftrangers, whom he came here profeifedly to confole and to re- 
 lieve ! Two of the gang who were leagued againft us, have been 
 twice brought before him. The vizier has been as often fum- 
 moped to his tribunal. Examinations have been taken of the 
 fafts ; but as the accufers and the culprits have never been 
 brought together, nothing is likely to enfue from this extraordinary 
 mode of trial, that can tend to the recovery of our property, or 
 the punifhment of the offenders. Smaller crimes, however, are 
 eorre<5led with feverity, when they are offered to Muffulmen ; 
 7 ^^
 
 [ 248 ] 
 
 an inftance of which occurred to-day before our door. A Chrif- 
 tian and an Arabian were convifted before the hakeem, of' 
 ftealing a fmall quantity of filver plate from a caravanfera. This' 
 aft of dehnquency was punifhed by a fevere baftinado on the 
 foles of the feet, which we underftand is the general method of' 
 correction. 
 
 This being the Mahometan fabbath, the hakeem went in great 
 ftate to the mofque. But tlie furniture of his horfe was not of a 
 piece with the difplay he meant to make. It was veiy antique, 
 and conliderably the worfe for wear. Neither did his beaft do 
 much credit to his keeping. The horfes in Upper Egypt feem 
 to labour in common under this neglect. They are very 
 fprightly animals, though of a fmall fize j and yet they cut no 
 figure, where corn and fugar-canes are in great plenty ; which 
 mull be attributed either to the unfkilfulnefs of the groom, or 
 the penury of the owner. Indeed, proviiions of all kinds are fo 
 cheap in this country, that the natives live well, for little or no- 
 thing. We, who neceflarily pay for things at double rates, pro- 
 vide for a family of ten or twelve people, at the moderate expence 
 of one dollar and a half, or feven fhillings per diem. In this are 
 included fruits of various kinds, of which we eat fo heartily, 
 that they often conftitute a quarter part of the coft. Bread is 
 at leaft thrice as cheap as in England, and fine mutton fells 
 ufually at two pence per pound. But what avails the plenty that 
 reigns here, when freedom has fled the land, and taken up her 
 ahode in northern climes ? Infecure in the enjoyment of their 
 property, which is the fport of every inteftine commotion, the 
 natives rather drawl out a life of uncertain tenure, than exift with 
 the fpirit of human creatures. 
 
 A fervant belonging to our houfe brought me a piece of cop- 
 per money, which I immediately knew to be Roman. On 
 my giving him a filver dewanny for it, value a halfpenny, he 
 
 produced
 
 [ 249 ] 
 produced three others, all Roman coins, and found, as he tells 
 me, among fome ruins here. To fpur his a6livity in procuring 
 me more, I gave him two dewannies apiece for the reft, with which 
 he feemed much delighted. I can only regret the critical .fii;ua- 
 tion we are in, which prevents our beating up an ample field,, 
 that undoubtedly abounds in every fpecies of antique rarities. 
 
 S A T U R D A Y, 23d August. 
 
 The quondam hakeem fent for Ibrahim early this morning, and 
 propofed my accompanying him to the fhaik this evening. We,- 
 very readily clofed with this fcheme, and fent our compliments 
 to the hakeem, defuing his permiffion to go. This was a requeft 
 which he could not flatly refufe ; but Ibrahim fays he appear- 
 ed much chagrined that we would not truft to the letter he had 
 fent, and to which he daily expe<5led a favorable anfwer. We 
 are fo tired out with evafions, that any ftate feems preferable to 
 that we are in -, and I have accordingly prepared myfclf to em- 
 bark with the quondam hakeem and Ibrahim for the fliaik's court 
 atfun-fet. 
 
 While we were at breakfaft, we had a vilit from the Turk, who 
 was accompanied by a friend that is likewife going to Cairo. He 
 opened to us a defign which we much approved of, and doubt not 
 to bring it to bear, in cafe of the fliaik's permiffion. Ke tells us 
 there is a boat ready to fail for Cairo, on which we may embark 
 , at my return, provided wearewiUing to give their paflage to fome 
 camel-drivers, who are waiting for a conveyance to Cairo. ^ He 
 is acquainted with a company of thefe people, who want to tranfr- 
 port their coffee thither. They will fave us the expence of a 
 guard, as evei-y man carries a matchlock, and, in defence of his 
 property, v/ill form the heft protediion we can defire for our boafc. 
 We efteem ourfelves very lucky in having found .an advifer, whofe 
 
 K k intcreft
 
 [250] 
 
 mtereft will prompt him to be fmcere/aM vmd(e jdlimey clepehdS' 
 upon our fuccefs. 
 
 I had a mefTage about eleven o'clock, to prepare for my voyage- 
 immediately after dinner. This meal is ferved up at noon in this 
 QOimtry, and we were in the height of it-, when Ibrahim was fent 
 for by the hakeem. We did not like this fummons, and were the- 
 lefs furprized, when we learnt that the hakeem diffuaded us from 
 going to the fliaik. This he did, under the pretence of the trouble 
 it would give me, and the little confequence a vifit would be of, 
 unfurniflied as we were; with a prefent to fmooth the introduc- 
 tion of our fuit. To this we replied, that nothing could be ac- 
 counted a trouble which would effect our departure ; and in re- 
 fpect to the want of a prefent, the gentleman who went, propofed 
 to lay the paper, which contained our lofles here, at the fliaik's 
 fbet; and to requeft him to recover the whole for hisownufe.- 
 And that this could not be confidered as a trifling gift, which- 
 amounted at leaft to 1,200 dollars. But he was deaf to thefe ar- 
 guments ; and at length told us he would write again by his pre- 
 deeeffor in office, urging an order for our fafe condu6t to Cairo. 
 But that he could not admit of my vifiting the fliaik, and falling- 
 into a thoufand difficulties, from an inability to fatisfy the de- 
 mands of the fliaik's fecretaries and domeftics. There was fome" 
 fhewof reafon in this remonftrance. We were well acquainted with"^ 
 their craving difpofition"; and though we had money enough to 
 have fcattered among them, our fituation is fo precarious, that 
 we dare not pretend to it. The fa6l is, we are in his power, and- 
 cannot a£l contrary to his inclination; We therefore fubmittedv 
 with a good grace, and fent Ibrahim to the quondam hakeem, to 
 remind him of our ilory, and to befpeak his influence with the: 
 Ihaik in our behalf. Ibrahim attended him to the boat, and 
 brought us back affurances of his utmoft fervices, which the poor 
 man delivered with tears in his eyes. This is too uncommon an 
 
 expreflion
 
 [ 251 ] 
 
 exprefllon of fincerity among the Arabs, to make us fufpicious 
 of its not coming from the heart *. 
 
 We walked to the caravanfera in the evening, to acquaint the 
 Turk of our difappointment, and to tender him camels for the 
 conveyance of his coffee, fhould the fliaik think it fafer for us to 
 go by land. He received the offer with gratitude ; but flill gives 
 us hopes of hearing better news concerning the troubles on the 
 river. 
 
 SUNDAY, 24111 August. 
 
 The Turk came to us this morning, with a face full of fome-- 
 thing important. After the firft cup of coffee, he delivered him- 
 felf of his burthen, which was at all events to difliiade us from 
 going by land. He told us, that he propofed fetting off in a few 
 days for Jirje, to wait till the river was clear, and prefled us much 
 to accompany him. We were rather ftartled at this propofition, 
 after what had paffed between us the night before; and, willing 
 to know his fentiments fully on the matter, we repeated oui*' m- ■ 
 tention to proceed by land, in cafe the pafTage by the Nile fliould 
 remain ftill perilous. Now it was that we learnt the defperate 
 fituation we were reduced to. The dangers which encompafled us 
 appealed in their proper colors, and required not the touches of 
 art to give them a formidable appearance. Armies of contending 
 parties obflrucSled our progrefs by water ; and a band of robbers 
 threatened to purfue our footfteps by land. In fliort, we difcover- 
 ed that this Turk was tender of the charafters of MufTulmen, 
 until he began to fufpefl we fliould fuffer by their treachery. 
 He therefore informed us in confidence, that we fhould be mad- 
 
 * Thus were all my hopes of viewing the antiquities of Luxor and Thebes, dafh- 
 ed in a moment, by the caprice of a flave, who is become our mafter, and detains me 
 from accompanying this Arab to the fhaik, who is in that neighborhood. 
 
 K k 3 iii'jn
 
 [ 252 ] 
 
 men to trufl ourfclves over the defarts ofThebals, when our de- 
 parture could not be kept a fecret. That, allowing the hakeem to 
 be fincere, and that he difpatched us agreeably to the -ftiaik's or- 
 der, there would not be wanting rogues in this town, who, coit^i 
 fident of our carrying away money and jewels with us, would fe- 
 cretly colle6l thirty or forty light camels, and although we had 
 got two days ftart of them, might eafily overtake, plunder, and 
 murder our whole body. To illuftrate this obfervation, he re« 
 lated to us a ftory of a Turkifh gentleman of his acquaintance, 
 who was treated in this manner about two years ago, in a journey 
 from Cofire to Ghinnah. A report univerfally prevailed, as in 
 our cafe, tliat he was pofTefled of great wealth, and he was fol- 
 lowed by a felecl: band into the defart, and furprized while he was 
 taking fome refrelhment beneath a thorn-tree. His party was 
 too weak to refifl the robbers ; and the Turk was (hot through 
 the head at the firft onfet. This anecdote naturally led him to 
 refled on our late fituation, which had been fo fimilar to the un- 
 fortunate traveller's, and to congratulate us on the ifTue, which had 
 been fo different. He was afcertained that tlie fame fate had been 
 intended us, from which we had efcaped by a fignal interventioi> 
 of Pro%'idence. On the other hand, our friend pointed out the 
 probability of our flimming the dangers of the river, by the tak- 
 ing refuge in any town we might be near, on an alarm of enemies ; 
 not to add the chance of fleering clear of them by night, and our 
 ability, in a flout boat, to make a manful refiflance againfl an 
 hoflile attack. We were quickly convinced of the propriety of 
 this advice; and it is refolved that we wait for the fliaik's anfwer 
 refpcfting our departure. Should it fo happen that he dire6l our 
 being fent by land, we are to inform the hakeem that we arc con- 
 tent to run all rifks by water, rather than encounter the fatigues 
 of another camel -journey : And, moreover, that our purfes will 
 rtot afford the expence of it. In the mean time^ the Turk is to fe- 
 
 cure
 
 [ 253 ] 
 
 ciure a boat, and to hold it in readinefs for xis. This is a plan 
 which has been reared on the moft plaufible foundation, but, 
 like the reft of our airy fchemcs, may be demolifhed by the 
 changes of the mojrow. 
 
 I know not whether I fhould lament or rejoice at my not be- 
 ing poffelTed of the true fpirit of virtu, which, overlooking all 
 cbftacles and perils, leads the poffeffor to hazard every thing for 
 the acquifition of an antique medal or feal. Were I one of the 
 number whom Pope fays, *' Sighs for an Otho, and negle£ls his 
 bride," I might indeed add to the lift of the curiofitics which I 
 have picked up, but at the fame time endanger our very liberties, 
 by a fnew of enquiry into the fmalieft matters. To procure thefe 
 rcliques, money muft be produced, the mere rumour of which 
 might awaken the avarice of the people, at whofe difpofal we 
 lie. Thefe reflections were fuggefted by a prefent, which I re- 
 ceived this evening from one of the Chriftians, of feals taken 
 up both here and at antient Thebes. The impreffions, it muft 
 be confelt, difcover no great elegance in the engraving. But their 
 antiquity is not to be doubLcd, from the remotenefs of the quar- 
 ter iia which they were found. 
 
 MONDAY, 25th August. 
 
 News is at length arrived of the death of the merchant Maho- 
 met at Cofire. 1 he perfons who communicated it to us, had 
 the confidence to warn us of going abroad immediately, left the 
 relations of the deceafcd fhould revenge themfelves upon us, whoXe 
 money they confider to have been the caufe of his murder. A 
 pretty inference, truly ! worthy of the fubtle intelledls of this di- 
 abohcal tribe! But whether the danger exifts or not, we intend 
 to make a plea of it to the.hakeem, to haften our departure, as 
 we do of the murdei" itfcif,. tcexcufe our going by land. Indeejdj, 
 
 when
 
 [ 254 ] 
 
 when we are afcertained of the villainy of the Arabs, who are law- 
 lefs enough to take away a Muflulmari's life in the middle of a cara- 
 van, what fecurity can be givento Chriftians, for their fafety with 
 a fmall body ? Our Turk paid us a morning vifit amid thefe deter- 
 minations, and again confirmed us in them. He propofes our 
 getting away to Jiije as foon as poffible, and remaining there, until 
 an opportunity offers to convey ourfelves to Cairo. He defcribes 
 Jirje to be a large and well-regulated city ; where we may keep 
 ourfelves private in a caravanfera, and be two days nearer the 
 capital, to obtain intelligence. We are too tired of the oppreffion 
 and deceit of the people of Ghinnah, not to wifh earneftly for a 
 change of the fcene; which, at any rate, cannot prove lefs 
 agreeable and eligible to us. 
 
 The fall of villainy occafions as great lamentations in this 
 town, as would the demife of integrity in an honeft land. The 
 ti"agedy which was lately a6led near Cofire, gave birth to a mourn- 
 ful procefllon of females, which pafled through the different 
 fti-eets of Ghinnah this morning, and uttered difmal cries for the 
 death of Mahomet. In the center was a female of bis family, 
 who carried a naked fword in her hand, to intimate the weapon 
 by which the dcceafed fell. At fundry places the proceflion flop- 
 ped, and danced around the fvv^ord, to the mufic of timbrels and 
 tabors. They paufed a long time before our houfe, and fome of 
 the women made threatening figns to one of our fervants j which 
 agree with the caution we received to keep within doors. It 
 would be dangerous enough to face this frantic company ; whofe 
 conftant clamor and extravagant geflures give them all the ap- 
 pearance of the female Bacchanals of Thrace, recorded of old. 
 
 As our Turk came up flairs this evening, he was flopped by 
 fome of the hakeem's fervants, and we were obliged to fend 
 Ibrahim to obtain him admittance. The little man was much 
 nettled at this ufage, nor could we account for it. The buflle 
 
 below 
 
 •'
 
 t 255 } 
 
 "^r 
 
 r-'^-t- 
 
 below flairs had occafioned an enquiry into the caufe, and Ibra- 
 him was-fumraoned by the great man, to explain it. The Turk 
 infifted upon accompanying him, and returned to us very well 
 fatisfied. He told the hakeem that he was an acquaintance of 
 long Handing -, was known to our conful at Cairo, and purpofed 
 to attend us to that city. We are very well pleafed that this 
 matter is broken to the hakeem ; who politely apologized for the 
 affront, which had been offered to a friend of ours, through, the 
 ignorance of his fervants. tv-- 
 
 The meannefs of this Abaflee is fhocking to a liberal mind, 
 which muft be reduced indeed to accept of the trifles which he 
 greedily folicits. He fufpe6ls us to be bare of money, and is 
 willing to eafe us of our remaining cloaths. He even takes ap- 
 parel which can be turned to no ufe; and the very Iheets from 
 our beds have not efcaped his rapacious hands. Daily are the 
 inroads which he makes into our baggage ; and we are content 
 to have it reduced to a fniali compafs. Among all the bad qua- 
 lities this fellow poflelTes, pride cannot, be included in the. 
 number. . 
 
 TUESDAY, 26th August. 
 
 t,-. r. - 
 
 jThe times of Yambo feem to be once more revived, and our 
 patience fated to be put to the feverelt proof. Three days are 
 elapfed fince the laft letter went to the fhaik, and no anfwer is 
 yet arrived. It is a myftery to all, that no notice has been 
 taken of the various accounts, which have been tranfmitted to the 
 fhaik, relative to us. He doubtlefs knows of our detention j but 
 we greatly apprehend, that he is ftill a ftranger to the principal 
 circumftances of our llory. Were it not for the confidence we 
 repofe in the former hakeem, we fhould not expe6l any orders in 
 our favor, until the fhaik's return, which every one fays is near 
 3 at
 
 f ^56 1 
 
 at hand, , Tliis morn'mg we faw his nephew pafs towards the ri- 
 ve;;, where lie erj^t^rks i^i a boat to meet the ihaik. Four oi- j&Vc 
 hours of a fair wind, will carry him to the place to which his 
 uncle has lately moved. 
 
 We had a long vifit from the hakeem tlais forenoon. He tells 
 us that advices came yeilerday from Cairo, which afford hopes 
 that a flrong force will foon be fent up the river, to clear it of 
 Ibrahim Beg's parties. A large detachment of Ifmaul Beg's ar- 
 my has fecured an important poft about fifty miles below Jirj t; 
 fo that the communication is open from thence to Cairo j and 
 INluftapha Beg's gallies aj-e thereby detained at Jirje. A veiry 
 fliort intei^val may occafion a revolution in matters; and the re- 
 bels who obliru6t our progrefs, may be driven back to the upper 
 parts of the Nile. We alfo find that Ifmaul Beg, by thefe ad- 
 vices, has in veiled tlie Shaik Ul Arab with the fovereignty of four 
 more provinces of Upper Egypt. A refined ftroke of policy in the 
 Bey, to confirm him in the interefl of the government; and to 
 oblige him to defend thefe very provinces againft tlie fugitive 
 chiefs, who might acquire a fupply of men and money from the 
 conqueft of them. 
 
 In the courfe of our converfation with the hakeem, we difco- 
 vered his predileftion to our going by land. On our pointing out 
 the obflacles which might deter us from fuch an undertaking, he 
 endeavoured to obviate them, by the flrongeft. affurances of his 
 care and protection. He went fo far as to declare, that on our 
 fitting out for Cairo, he would feize upon Ally and the fellows 
 who had robbed us, and detain them in cuftody until our lafety 
 was known. That he would alfo afiix chops or feals, upon the 
 wai*ehoufe- doors of the camel-drivers, until they returned witlithc 
 intelligence of our arrival at Cairo. Thefe promifes are encou-^ 
 raging enough, and might induce us to venture at laft upon ca- 
 mels, if an example were made of the rogues who plundered us, 
 
 2 to
 
 I ^57 ] 
 to deter others from attempting the like. The camel-drivers who 
 went with the company of Tuiks to Cairo, are expesSted back in 
 four or five days. They will, perhaps, bring us an anfwer from 
 Mr. Baldwin, and we have the good fortune to be furniflied, by 
 his means, with a recommendation to the (haik from Ifmaul Beg. 
 But there is little chance of our being obliged to determine on this 
 point, during the abfence of the fhaik. The government is likely 
 to reap no little advantage from our coming here. The murder 
 of Mahomet has given it a pretence, to fecure the property of the 
 camel-drivers belonging to that caravan. We faw a fecretary pals 
 by with a party of foldiers this afternoon, and were told, that he 
 had been affixing chops to the different warehoufes of their cara- 
 vanfera, v/hich contained coffee to a confiderable amount. This 
 would partly go towards fatisfying the family of the deceafed, but 
 the mod confiderable portion be confifcated to government. 
 
 I went up to the top of our houfe in the evening, to obferve 
 the progrefs of the inundations of the Nile. The freflies now are 
 at the grcatefl height ; and there appeared a prodigious alteration 
 in the Icene fuice my laft view of it. The waters are fpread to 
 the very extremities of the town. The ftream is greatly agitated 
 and difcolored, and runs down with the force of an headlong 
 torrent. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, 27th August. 
 
 I was awakened before day-break by the fame troop of women, 
 which palled our houfe the other day in honor to the memory of 
 Mahomet. Their difmal cries fuited well with the lonely hour of 
 the night : and I underftand tliat this relic of the Grecian cuftom 
 lafts for the fpace of feven days ; during which interval the female 
 relations of the deceafed make a tour through the town, morning 
 
 L 1 and
 
 f 258 ] . 
 
 Mvi niglit, beating then* bi-eafls, tlircwing aThes on tlieir heads, 
 tend dii-pkying every artificial token of fonow. 
 
 • The general rumor of the town is, that the fhaik will be here 
 to-morrow. Soine of his domeftics are anived, which in a man- 
 I'Kr confin«3 it. It is time for us to be relieved from the reftraint 
 we are under, as eveiy hour teems with the danger of difcoveries. 
 From the frequent infpeclion of our baggage, -wt flill hold it ex- 
 pedient to carry our money and valuables about us. Befides the 
 irkfomenefs of fuch a charge, accidental occurrences have often 
 brought us to the brink of betraying it : and more than once, to 
 i«y gl'-eat confu'fiou, has the hakeem himfetf fate down fo clofe to 
 tlie place where my watch has been concealed, that he muft infal- 
 libly have heard it going, had we not ftrained all our invention to 
 engage his attention. Cod grant that the fhaik was once come 
 among us 1 when the worft which can happen will be, that we 
 fliall know the utmoft malice of our fate. 
 
 .^ We took a walk this evening along the banks of the Nile, to 
 fee the revolution of things in that quarter. The deluge extends 
 itfelf daily on evei7 fide ; and we remarked many places where 
 the river has formerly made inroads into the town itfelf. A face 
 of bufinefs diffufes itfelf around the country. The hufbandmen 
 have prepared their grounds for the reception of the manure, 
 which the floods will leave upon them. Nature affifls them in 
 a point, the mofl laborious and expenfive to the farmer in other 
 
 * countries; and to this account, the cheapnefs of grain may be 
 imputed in Upper Egypt, more than to the quantity which the 
 land produces, which is only cultivated on the banks of the Nile. 
 When the waters retii'e, the feed is immediately fown, and a 
 
 ^ The author muft except the kingdom of Bengal, which is watered by that 
 • BcJble river the Ganges j whofe operations and eff«6ts bear an intimate refemblance 
 ;_te th«fe of the Nile. 
 
 crop
 
 «[ 259 } 
 
 crop is reaped within the fhort fpace of four montlis. The moft 
 aftonifliing inftance of the quicknefs of vegetation that the world 
 can afford. As we had encountered fome intelligent fellows on 
 the road, I enquired into fome of the natural curiofitics, v/hich 
 have fo long diftinguilhed this region. I learn that the ofVrich ij 
 too common, to be much regarded by the natives. Tliat the 
 crocodile is a mofl formidable tenant of the Nile, and held bi 
 great dread by the fifherraen ; one of whom told us, that he 
 was prefent at the death of a crocodile a (hart time ago, m 
 whofe belly were found the gold rings and ornaments of a 
 dancing-girl, who was devoured by the monfter, as fiie was bath- 
 ing in the river. The hippopotamus, or river-horfe, is likewife 
 yet, though rarely, met witli, between this place and Jirje. I have 
 an exa6l refemblance of him in an antique feal which came from 
 the ruins of Thebes ; but I muft add, that he is often found to 
 be twelve feet and upwards in length. His ikin is fo hard as to 
 refill a mulket-ball ; and he is fo cunning, as feldom or never to 
 be feen afhore, by day-light. Among the various reafons that 
 induce my preferring to travel by water, the defuse of beholding 
 this rare production of nature, is not the leaft cogent : and J 
 cannot but anticipate the gratifications which are in (lore for us, 
 whenever I meditate on a voyage down the Nile, diilurbcd as it 
 is by the commotions of war. 
 
 THURSDAY, 28th August. 
 
 The morning was ulliei'ed in by the arrival of a great maal:, 
 who came immediately to our houfe, accompanied by the li'k*- 
 keem, who went to the river-fide to receive him. He is a Turk, 
 and was lately governor of Ghofe, a town fome hours diflant 
 up the Nile, from whence he was removed on the revolution at 
 Cairo. He is going by land to that city, and on hearing of our 
 
 L 1 2 fituation.
 
 [ 26o } 
 
 fituation, very politely fent a meflage to requefl the favor of our 
 company. A better opportunity could not have offered itfelf 
 for our proceeding by this route; and we mufl undoubtedly 
 avail ourfelves of it, if no good intelhgence reach us touching the 
 paffage by water, before the fhaik's return, which this Turk af- 
 fui'es us will be to-morrow evening, or the next morning at fur- 
 theft. It will be with the utmoft regret, that we forego the 
 verdant profpefls, the romantic fcenes, which the banks of the 
 Nile abound with, to traverfe ftony vallies and a dreary wafte. 
 We cannot with any degree of patience, compare the eafe and 
 convenience of a boat, to the labor, fatigue, and heat we fhall 
 experience, in journeying upon camels. But fo hearty is our 
 averfion to the people we are among, fo w^earied out are we with 
 the delays we have met with, that we are ready to encounter the 
 horrors of the defart, provided we encounter them under a fafe 
 conduct, rather than remain here a week longer, to wait the 
 iffue of the difputes upon the river. — But our refolutions are the 
 fport of fortune, and catch their hue from the afpe61: of the day. 
 It is with fome concern, that we fhall feparate ourfelves from 
 our little Turkifh acquaintance, whofe good-humour and atten- 
 tion have greatly preferred him in our efteem. But it would be 
 folly to reject the protection of this great man, who travels with 
 a ftrong guard, for the uncertain and dangerous profpect of get- 
 ting down by water. 
 
 We were warmly folicited by the hakeem to-day, for various 
 articles, which he had overlooked before. This is a ftrong inti- 
 mation that his mafter is at hand, to deliver us at leaft from his 
 importunities. 
 
 F R I D AY,
 
 [ 26i ] 
 
 FRIDAY, 29th August. 
 
 A woman came to our door to-day, who ufed to alk charity 
 of us at Cofire. She is juft arrived with the caravan, and brings 
 fome fliocking accounts touching the death of Mahomet. It ap- 
 pears, that he was left in the defart by the villains vvho aflaulted 
 him, and remained there three days without any affiftance what- 
 ever, when he was accidentally taken up by a party of a few 
 camels, and carried to Cofue. There he lingered three days more, 
 ere death relieved him from the pains he endured. The tortures- 
 which were referved for this poor wretch, from the rankling of 
 his many wounds, are really affedliing to humanity ; but the 
 horrors which mull have haunted his confcience in this dread- 
 ful interval, are too formidable to conceive. The deceit which 
 he had pradlifed towards ftrangers, the breach of hofpitality be- 
 neath his own roof, and the perjuries that he had committed in 
 iht prefence of a juft God, muft in thofe moments have recur- 
 red with double force to his imagination, and ftruck him with a 
 full conviftion of his guilt. Even the Arabs themfelves, who 
 are feldom reftrained from evil from the contemplation of a fu- 
 ture ftate, acknowledge the interpofition of the divine hand in 
 the fate of this man. Unhappy vidlini of prejudice and paffion ! 
 may thy fins have been expiated by the anguilh of thy exit ! And 
 may the eternal pardon which is promifed to repentance, meet 
 thee as fully, as what I beftow upon thy offence I 
 
 Our hopes of going in company with the Turkifh officer, 
 are cut off as foon as formed. He purpofes fetting out this 
 night, and we are immoveably fixed here, until the prefence of 
 the fhaik breaks the fpell. We cannot but fecretly reproach the 
 hakeem for this difappointment. Had he permitted of my em- 
 bafly to the Ihaik, there is little doubt but we fliould have ob- 
 tained
 
 I 2-62 ] 
 
 tained permiffioH to nccompany this Turk to Cairo. But we 
 have not been wanting to effe6l the utmoft. We have written a 
 fourth letter to Mr. Baldwin, flating our uncomfortable fitua- 
 tiotn ; which we have committed to the care of one of the Turk's 
 (Jomcftics, through the means of Ibraliim. 
 
 The Turk and his party departed at midnight, which we ob- 
 fej'ved from our windows, that almoU face his lodgings. He had 
 g;iven out that he ihould not go until the morning. Thefe pre- 
 cautions were taken by the former travellers who went by land i 
 to deceive., we prefume, the thieves who lurk in this neigh- 
 borhood. 
 
 SATURDAY, 30th August. 
 
 We had fcar<:ely breakfafled this morning, when advice came 
 Qf the long-expedled approach of the Shaik Ul Arab. We im- 
 mediately went to the top of our houfe, to fee the ceremony of 
 his landing. We had hitherto rellrained our joy at an event, 
 which was too defirable to be credited, without the evidence of 
 our fenfes. The reader may therefore judge of our emotions, 
 wjien we beheld a large fleet of boats, falling down with the 
 ftream. We found the fliaik to be in the headraoft, from the 
 pendant and enfign which were difplayed on board j and he 
 fpon entei'ed the creek, which is a fhelter for boats from the 
 violence of the frefl:ies, both fides of which wei^e lined witb 
 people to receive him. But l^ the flrength of the current his 
 boat was forced upon a bank, mid-way in the creek, and not 
 without gueat difficulty, difengaged. The wateimen on the Nile 
 dp not feem tq underftand their bufinefs, like their fraternity on 
 the Thames ; or they would not have left their monarch fo long 
 in perplexity. Several ropes gave way in drawing the boat from 
 tlie bank ; and two hours elapfed before fhe was brought to the 
 iajiding-place, though ^ifliiled by fome hundreds of people. 
 
 It
 
 i ^^3 1 
 It was pleafant enough to behold the terraces crowned with- 
 women, on this occafion. Their keepers were probably abroad, 
 to pay their compliments to the fhaik, while the birds flew to 
 the tops of their cages, to tafte of the momentary fvveets of li- 
 berty. I never £aw fo numerous a fhew of females, fome of 
 whom, in our neighborhood, proclaimed themfelves proficients 
 in the arts of coquetry, by withdrawing their vails to attra6t 
 our notice, and dropping them again, when our eyes were fixed 
 upon tlieir faces. Many were the falutations we received from 
 ihefe good-natured creatures ; whofe freedom of behavior to us,. 
 I attribute to the rigid confinement in which they are kepr. Re- 
 ftraint is the bane of modefty in female bofoms j sa\d 1 will ven- 
 ture to fay, that there are moi-e wom.en of loofe inclinations in 
 theTurkifh dominions, than in all Europe befide. So jull is the 
 advice of our countryman Prior, in regard to our treatmejit of a 
 fair companion : 
 
 " Be to her faults a little blind. 
 Be to her virtues very kind -, 
 Let all her ways be unconfin'd. 
 And -clap your padlock on her mind !" 
 
 At four o'clock we were fummoned to the prefence of the 
 fhaik, whom we found alone in a lower apartment of his palace. 
 We were much elevated by his arrival, and perhaps, could not have 
 appeared to better advantage before our protestor ; whofe cordial 
 reception of us befpeaks him to be fuch, in the trueft fenlb of 
 the word. He feated us on the fame carpet with himfelf, anot 
 after a few compliments, which were interpreted to us by Ibra- 
 him, he direfted coffee and fruit to be placed before us. Here 
 for the firft time we faw grapes, which were very fine, and a pe- 
 culiar date, which furpafles every thing of the kind I ever met 
 
 9 with.
 
 [ 264 ] 
 
 with. While we were partaking of this rcpafr, I had leifure to 
 take a full view of the fliaik, and cannot refift the inclination of 
 introducing a cliarafter to the reader, of which I flatter myfelf 
 he will have reafon to be enamored hereafter. 
 
 Ifman Abu Ally, the great fnaik of the Arabs — for fuch we 
 would render the Shaik Ul Arab — is a fhort fat man, of about 
 five feet two inches high, and turned, as we learn, of feventy- 
 five. His eyes are grey, and his complexion very fair ; but 
 what at once gives him a fmgular and more youthful look, his 
 beard, which is very bufliy, is colored of a bright yellow. This 
 exterior may not feem the moft promiftng, and might create dif- 
 tafte, if the benevolence that beams from his countenance, were 
 not foremoft to fecure the heart of the beholder. Neither can 
 the (hrillnefs of his voice, which is harjQi and difTonant, dcflroy 
 the beauty of the fentiments, which it is infufficiently made ufe 
 of to convey ; as the elegance of the words may fometimes atone 
 for the demerits of a tune. He is ftill aClive, for a man of his 
 fize and age ; and his fpirits are fo good, that were it not for 
 the ravage which time has made among his teeth, he might pafs 
 for a younger man by twenty years at leafl:. Except the viziers 
 of Yambo and Ghinnah, whom we had found to be villains by 
 fad experience, we had hitherto dealt with the drofs of the na- 
 tion. It was referved for this moment, for us to meet with the 
 polite gentleman and the honeft man, comprized in the perfon 
 where they ought to be found, in the reprefentative of his 
 people. Happy the fubjedl of a virtuous land, who at once pof- 
 fefles and imitates fo rare an example ! But how funk in the 
 abyfs of infamy are the race, who wholly deviate from the flan- 
 dard of reftitude j and though daily reproached by the life of 
 their monarch, are not to be reclaimed by the tone of authority, 
 or the elocution of adlive virtue ! 
 
 We had quickly caufe to find, that we had not given the fhaik 
 
 5 too
 
 [ 265 ] 
 
 too much credit for his integrity. His impatience to acquit him- 
 fflf 4ri our opinion, of any connivance at the condu6t of his 
 fervants, could fcarcely be reftrained by the forms of civihty, 
 which precluded bufinefs during our repaft. But no fooner was 
 it ended, than he iliifted the converfation, and came diredlly to 
 the point which we were fo much concerned in. He lamented 
 the treatment which we had undergone, and which could only 
 have happened in his abfence ; and lie vehemently reprobated 
 the behavior of his officers, which he v/as determined to purtiih 
 in the moft exemplary manner. After a few leading queilions, 
 which tended to confirm the report that had been made to him 
 touching our (lory, he profefied, that his return to Ghinnah 
 had been haHened on our account. That he had come pur- 
 pofely to do us flrifl juftice on our perfecutors, and to difpatch 
 us under a fafe condutl to Cairo. As a proof of his fmcerity, 
 he ordered Ally, the brother of the deceafed Mahomet, to be 
 brought before him. He had been previoufly taken into cuftody, 
 and was waiting without, to be examined. With this fellow, 
 came Sauker, one of the rogues who had affiiled to plunder us, 
 and who of his own accord, produced the things which had fallen 
 to his fliare, in the divifion of the fpoils. He laid them at the 
 fliaik's feet ; and with the greateft effrontery declared, that he 
 had taken them, only to fecure them from the thieves of the 
 houfe : and that his truth might be deduced from his care 
 of our property. Though his offence was palpable, this 
 ftep was fufiicient to flcreen him from puniihment in a coun- 
 try, where retribution is all that is required by the profecutor, 
 and where juflice is generally to be appeafed by pecuniary fines. 
 But the ill-advifed Ally did not efcape in this manner. He 
 boldly denied having robbed us of money or vahiables, and Wfis 
 loudly exclaiming at the injuftice of the accufation, when the 
 fliaik raifed his voice, and a dozen AbyfTmian flaves fuddenly 
 
 M m feized
 
 feized on the culprit, and hunied him out of the room. We 
 were in pain for the fellow, and were meditating on the confe- 
 quences of his arreft, when he was brought into our prefence 
 again, bound hand and foot, with a chain about his neck, by 
 which he was held. He was on the point of receiving the baf- 
 :i:inado on his knees, when he confeffed the charge, and promifed 
 to return all that he had taken from vs. The fliaik was in^- 
 ciincd to inflid the punilhment on him ; -but by the interpofi- 
 tion of thole about him, in which we joined, he remitted it for 
 -the prefent j and directed Ally to be led home, that he might 
 produce the goods. Our triumph was complete. One of our 
 antient enemies had atoned for his crime, in a manner that out- 
 went the mod fanguine idea of revenge. The other was humbled 
 at our feet. He furvived indeed : but it w^as only to abafe him- 
 lelf before us, and to depend upon our moderation for his 
 fecurity ! 
 
 In about half an hour Ally returned, and produced a few of 
 the leaft valuable articles. He earneltly requefted until the morn- 
 ing to deliver up the rell, and to repay us the money that he had 
 cheated us out of. This was granted him at our defire, and 
 the prifoner committed to his ov^^n houfe, under the cuftody of a 
 llrong guard. 
 
 Several of the fliaik's courtiers had come in during this exami- 
 nation, among whom were his nephew and the quondam hakeem. 
 We found the latter was in difgrace, and endeavored to make his 
 peace, by expreffing to his mailer, the many obhgations we lay 
 under to his.cace pf our perlbns. The good old man only fliook 
 his head in reply, and waved the fubjed, by defiring us to attend 
 again at kvcn o'clock the ;iext morning, when he had fummoned 
 a full court of jullice to punilh our aggreffors. He difmilTed us, 
 with frelh all'urances of his protedion i and, as an earneft of what 
 lo we
 
 [ 267 ] 
 
 we might expe6l, he directed our fervants to cany home the reco- 
 vered goods in triumph before us. 
 
 , SUNDAY, 31ft August. 
 
 We breakfufted betimes, and at feven o'clock went to the fhaik's 
 houfe. The court were ah'eady affembled in an open fpot before 
 the houfe, which was fhaded by an high wall from the morning 
 fun. Here we found the fliaik encompaOed by his great men, 
 with a number of foldiers and attendants at fome diftance in their 
 front. Carpets were fpread in the intermediate fpace for our re- 
 ception. Here we feated ourfelves, after making our obeifance to 
 the fhaik, and waited in filcnce the iffue of the trial. Next to the 
 fhaik's right hand was placed his nephew, and, as we xmderfland, 
 his declared fucceflbr in the government. He is a comely and 
 good-humored looking man, feemingly between thirty and forty 
 years of age ; and by his behavior, appeared to be lefs our enerny 
 than any other of his uncle's counfellors. So unhappy is this up- 
 right and humane prince in the lot of his fervants. 
 
 Juft before we came in, the culprit Ally had undergone a fevere 
 baftinado, on again proving refra6lory ; and the hakeem was fent 
 to fearch his houfe for the ftolen goods. This occalloned a paufe 
 iri the proceedings, which were interrupted by the fudden appear- 
 ance of the vizier, who, to our great aftonifliment, took a feat 
 which was vacant next to the fliaik's nephew. This confidence 
 was unexpecled, and filled us with unfavorable prognoftics of the 
 event of our fuit. But our doubts were of fliort continuance. He 
 had entered unregarded by his malrer, and was talking with great 
 eafe to thofc about him, when the fliaik turned about, and in a fo- 
 lemn tone, alkcd him for the fhauls and things, which he had re- 
 ceived from the Englifh gentlemen. The whole frame of this gay 
 courtier was evidently difcompofed by this queftion. He hadpro- 
 • ' ■ .ic i£ tbiif. M m 2 bably
 
 [ 268 ] 
 
 bably laid his account with, our fupprefling the part he had taken 
 againft us, after the high hand with which he had once flopped the 
 accufation of Abdul Ruflar, and was unprepared with an evafion. 
 His countenance inftantly was difrobed of its pleafantry ; his 
 limbs trembled, and his tongue faltered in framing a reply, the 
 fubftance of which was, that he was a ftranger to the matter with 
 which he was charged. We were afhamed of the meannefs of a 
 man of his rank, but the wrath of the fhaik was wound up to 
 •the higheft pitch at the hearing of this falfehood. He was confirmed 
 of the guilt from the fymptoms which the offender difplayed ; and 
 without calling any frefli evidence to corroborate it, he proceeded 
 to decide. But he could hardly find utterance for his orders, 
 which were to arrefl: and flog the vizier immediately. A number 
 of flaves flarted from the croud, to execute the pleafure of their 
 lord. The aftonifhed minifter could not beheve his ears, and 
 would fain have perfuaded himfelf that the affair was a jeft. He 
 was prefently convinced of his miftake. The officers of juftice 
 idd violent hands upon his perfon, tumbled him from his proud 
 feat, and in a rude manner hurried him away, in fpite of his out- 
 cries and fruitlefs refiftance. This behavior ferved only to exaf- 
 perate the fhaik. His eyes flafhed with the honeft indignation 
 which lighted his bofom -, his fl:r£ngth could fcarcely fupport the 
 agitations of his mind ; and after fome effort, he raifed himfelf 
 from his carpet, and repeated his commands in a voice, that flruck 
 terror into the breafls of all prefent. He was immediately fur- 
 rounded by a croud of his courtiers, who kiffed his hands, em- 
 braced his knees, and interceded with him for the pardon of the 
 vizier. Thefe nobles took no Ihare in the paffions of their monarch, 
 and were only attentive to exculpate one of their body, though 
 at the expence of honor and juftice. 
 
 I muflown that I was concerned at the fearful fituation of a man, 
 
 who had never been guilty of any aftual violence towards us, and 
 
 5 whofe
 
 [ ^(>9 3 
 
 whofe greateft trefpafs was the receipt of prefents, on his afTu- 
 raiices ofproteftion, when he permitted of our being plundered by 
 our inhofpitable hofl and his adherents. Thefe, however, were 
 crimes of the deepeft dye, in the eyes of the good old fhaik. When 
 we dire6ted Ibrahim to plead for the inoffenfive condu6l of the vi- 
 zier towards us, he would not hear of any apology for a villain, 
 who had fo little the honor of his country at heart, as to injure 
 its charadler by winking at the maltreatment of ftrangers. He 
 could the lefs overlook it in a fervant of his own, and added, that 
 it was at our inftance only, he would remit the punifhment due to 
 his enormity. The mortification neverthelefs was referved for the 
 vizier, that he fiiould be brought before us, difarraved of his gay 
 apparel, his hands bound behind him, and a chain faflened about 
 his neck. In this miferable plight, he was told of the obligation 
 he was under to our generous application ; and led home by a 
 guard, to produce his ill-gotten acquifition, as his only hope of 
 fafety. Vv'e obferved a general murmur among the grandees, at 
 tlie compliment which was paid us on this occafion. The dif- 
 grace of one of their body excited no friendly fentiments towards 
 us ; and not a few menacing looks were thrown upon us from 
 the circle. On the other hand, the fliaik harangued them in a fen- 
 fible and pathetic fpeech, on the honor of their nation. He caft 
 the moH juft and fevere reproaches on tlie characVer of the abfent 
 minifter, and warned them in future, againft fuch inhuman 
 practices towards Chriftians and ftrangers. He then turned to- 
 us with the kindeft afpecl, and re-afl'ured us of his prote6lion. He 
 thanked us for the confidence which we had repofed in him, in 
 venturing through a country, fo remote and unknown ; and la- 
 mented anew, that his abfence from his capital had given room 
 for our repenting the experiment. He fuppofed that no fociety, 
 however enlightened, was free from the clafs of reptiles by which 
 .we had fufFered ; and the law provided a juft retaliation for the 
 
 offence.
 
 [ 2/0 ] 
 
 offence. But he attributed tlie commiffion of the offence to the 
 negledl of the hakeem of Ghinnah, who had flumbered Uke an 
 unwary centinel on his duty. For this he had been difcharged 
 from his office, and a Have of his own been fent to take care of us 
 until his arrival. All that was now wanting to complete our fa- 
 tisfa6lion, was the recovery of our lofles, which he would fee ef- 
 fected ; and our journey to Cairo, which he fwore fhould be ac- 
 coniplilhed witliout an injury being offered to an hair of oiu: 
 
 lieadS, , .i.'^i.. t'i^^'.', iiJi'^'U iijLiVl-} ^'jhWiiitiV^ f^ )ii-y\j^Ki'j Q", nOlj;jtj 
 
 As virtue as well as vice is magnified by comparifort, it will ndt 
 appear extraordinary, that our encreafing regard for this great 
 man began to border upon enthufiafm. Reader ! if thou art of 
 the yielding kind, if thy mould is fufceptible of tender inipret- 
 fions — 'fay, when furrounded by a croud of homely females, did 
 thy heart never beat high at the approach of tranfcendant beau- 
 ty ? So, from the cloud of mifcreants that encompafl'ed his throne, 
 fhot forth the glories of the Egyptian king ! So bright, fo peer- 
 ilefs did he rife from the contraft. So unworthily flationed, and 
 yet fo worthy of the ftation in which his birth had placed 
 him ! Nurfed in the lap of ignorance and barbarifm, like another 
 Peter, he had triumphed over nature. Nor opinion could warp, 
 nor habit could bind him. He nobly fpurned the prejudices of 
 education, and, without any guide, fkve the impulfe of innate 
 goodnefs, he foared to the fuperior heights of virtue. She feem- 
 ed the miftrefs of his inclinations, rather than of his election or 
 intereft; and, b.efide him, the world may afford but few fubje6ts 
 of fuch an influence. It is true, that his endeavors were not 
 -crowned with the fuccefs that diftinguifhed thofe of Peter the 
 Great. But Peter attended more to the aggrandizement than the 
 morals oF his people ; and, with all the great qualities of the hero, 
 funk infinitely below the Egyptian, in the feeUngs of the man. 
 The latter was fit to have ruled over an enlightened empire. 
 
 While
 
 { c^s j 
 
 While the former, "^after all his vi6lorIes, was, inrnany refpefVs, 
 an example unworthy of imitation ! .- iuint-j '(_':£./. nu 
 
 Our ignorance of the Arabian language obliged uj^'to ftave^Tci- 
 courfe to our interpreter, for an acknowledgment of the fe fa- 
 vors. But at the fame time, it faved us the confafion of appear- 
 ing at a lofs for a fuitable reply. We flieltered ourfelves under 
 this fortunate circumftiance, which, in a great meafure, left our 
 patron to conceive a gratitude, which words would have but poor- 
 ly exprelTed. diHgiin iiaw 2B amiiv r ^ 
 
 A meilenger now arrived with two fliauls and my crecfe, from 
 the vizier. The other flaaul, he faid, he had parted with ; and 
 the piftols he had given to Ally. Once more, therefore, was the 
 wretched Ally produced before the court ; and on denying the re- 
 ceipt of them, the baftinado was again inflifted on him *. Be- 
 fides the articles which had been reftored, there were ftill a fdver 
 urn, a pair of gold knee-buckles, and a quantity of valuable linen 
 to be accounted for. Not to fpeak of the money which they had 
 obtained from us, under various pretences. But tiiefe were faid 
 to have fallen to Mahomet's fhare in thedivifion; and his robbery 
 and death were made a plea of by the family, to fatisfy us for our 
 lofs. The fliaik would not hear of this apology, which he term- 
 ed falfe and evafive. And fooner than we fhould fuft'er by that 
 family, he declared, that he v/ould firfl: order their fabftance to 
 be difpofed of, and if that would not repay us for our loiTes, 
 Ally and the reft of them fhould hp fold as flaves, to make up the 
 fum^J^'lt was now time for us to interfere. The matter was ex- 
 ceeding the bounds to which we meant to pufii it ; and policy, as 
 
 ♦ This is a very novel as well as fearful punifhment. The pri Toner is placed up- 
 right on the ground, with his hands and feet bound together, while the executioner 
 ftands before him, and, with a fliort ftick, ftrikcs him with a fmart motion on the 
 outfideot his knees. Tlie pain which arifes from thefe ftrokes, is exquifitelv fe- 
 yere, and what no conftitution could fupport for any continuance. 
 
 well
 
 [ 272 ] 
 
 well as humanity, prompted us to drop it. Our principal aim 
 was to get from Ghinnah, under a proper prote6lion. Oar perfe- 
 cutors had been chaftifed, and it was preferable for us to put up 
 with fome inconvenience, rather than riin the rifle of beirrg de- 
 tained here, in the purfuit of full redrefs. On this account we 
 liftened to the mediation of the hakeem, and fome of the cour- 
 tiers, who befeeched us to withdraw our claim to all but eighty 
 dollars of the remaining debt, which Ally might raife from the 
 camels he poirefled. Our acquiefcence in this propofal gained us 
 credit with all prefent, and drew a particular compliment from 
 the worthy fhaik -, who protefted, that he could not but admire 
 our generofitv, though it was exercifed at the expence of their 
 national character. The reader, perhaps', Way agree with 'us, 
 that we ought not to have fubfcribed to this infmuation, as fuch 
 a man as was then before us, was enough to redeem his nation 
 from obloquy. 
 
 '*'The court now broke up, and we were difmilTed, not a little 
 |33F6afed with this mode of adminiftering juftice. The punifliment 
 inflifled upon robbers in other countries, fupprefles the growth of 
 them in the general opinion. But when we reflect on the frequent 
 robberies that are committed in our own, it feems doubtful, whe- 
 ther the feverity of the fentence anfwers the expected end. For a 
 traveller, at leaft, who has his own intereft moft at heart, the fa- 
 tisfa(5lion which we received was infinitely more eligible, than anjr 
 that could have been made tis of a fanguinarj nature. We had 
 recovered what we had loft all expeftation of feeing again; and to 
 our hafte and good-will only, is to be attributed our not obtain- 
 ing the unconditional benefit of the Ihaik's decree. As a fmall 
 token of our refpeft, on our return home, we made up fuch a 
 prefent as we judged would be moft acceptable to a man of his 
 turn of mind, and fent it to the ftiaik by Ibrahim. It confifted of 
 k couple of fine Ihauls, an Indian carpet and palampore, and an 
 
 handfome
 
 [ 273 ] 
 
 handfome fabre and cafe of piftols. The fabre and piftols, tho* 
 articles of the greateft value, he returned, and fent us many thanks 
 for our remembrance of him in the reft, which he faid he would 
 keep for our fake. He alfo told Ibrahim, that he had diredled a 
 merchant to furnifli us with camels for our journey, as the river 
 was too perilous for us to venture on. This laft inftance of his at- 
 tention ferved to rivet in our minds the chara6ler of Ifman Abu 
 Ally, who is indeed a pearl thrown to the fwine of Ghinnah. 
 
 MONDAY, ift September. 
 
 Our whole thoughts now are turned to our departure. The 
 merchant attended us early this morning, in company with the 
 hakeem, to fettle the price of our camels. The common price is 
 from eight to ten dollars each, and it is not furprizing that we pay 
 the higheft. But the number of camels which they obliged us to 
 take, was what vexed us the moft. We want but nine for our- 
 felves and fervants, and they infift upon our providing fix more for 
 the ufe of our guard. Thefe are our camel-drivers, who, in our 
 late journey, were wont to ride two upon a camel ; but in the 
 longer one we are about to enter upon, are to have a beaft apiece. 
 Thefe additional camels will greatly encreafe the expence ; blit 
 were the demand an impofition, we are determined to fubmit to 
 it with a good grace, rather than trouble the fliaik any further 
 upon our fcore. We wifh not to add to the number of enemies 
 we have in this town, and mean to quit it with the utmoft dif- 
 patch. We defired the hakeem, therefore, to advance the mer- 
 chant the eighty dollars which he was to levy upon Ally, as aa 
 earneft for the hire of his camels. 
 
 A thought ftruck me during our examination yefterday, which 
 I would not have had verified for the treafures of Egypt. The 
 fliaik is old and very corpulent ; and had it fo happened that he 
 
 N n had
 
 I 274 ] 
 
 had biirft a blood-veflel in the heat of his paflion, I was revolv- 
 ing the probable confequences in my mind. There was not a 
 man of rank prefent, whom we could confider in the light of our 
 friend. Even the nephew was neuter ; and there is no certainty 
 of the part he would have taken, had fuch an accident befallen 
 Iiis uncle. In truth, there is little doubt but we (hould have 
 paid for his favor with our lives. Such a backwardnefs had been 
 fliewn before his arrival to bring the offenders to juftice, and fuch 
 a forwardnefs in his prefence to fkreen them from punifliment, 
 that the fliaik faw through the partiality of his officers, and re- 
 prehended them for it. One particular circumftance that betray- 
 ed their bent, is worthy of remark, and efcaped me in the rela- 
 tion of the bufuiefs of yefterday. The gold buckles which had 
 been taken by Ally were put down in the lift of our lofTes, at what 
 the Arabs imagined an exorbitant value. They could not flip 
 fuch an occafion of gratifying their malice, and lowering our in- 
 tereft with the king. They boldly taxed us with exaggerating our 
 16(tes, and endeavoring to profit by their mafter's clemency. They 
 demanded that a jeweller might be fent for, to afcertain the truth 
 of their charge. To this the fliaik was averfe, as, perhaps, con- 
 ceiving we might have erred through miftake. But at our in- 
 ftance a jeweller attended, whofe evidence defeated the malice of 
 our enemies. He weighed them in the prefence of the court, and 
 pronounced the gold to be equal to the value affixed, indepen- 
 dent of the workmanfhip, which was fo rare and fo curious, that 
 he "fappofed it muft have enhanced the price of the buckles more 
 than one half. It mufl be obferved, that this jeweller, like the 
 other mechanics of this country, was a Chriftian, and knew the 
 fliaik too well, to be afraid of fpeaking the truth, to the great 
 confufion of our accufers, who were completely crell-fallen at this 
 retort, 
 
 2 We
 
 { 275 ] 
 
 We had a frefli proof in the afternoon of the fliaik's concern 
 for our welfare. It feems that the camels which went to Cairo 
 with the company of Turks, luckily returned this forenoon, and 
 as they belong to the fliaik, he is determined to accommodate us 
 with them. This intelligence is juft brought us by the hakeem, 
 who has fent to the merchant for our money to pay to the {haik's 
 people. We are not a little rejoiced at this change, which will 
 add not only to our fecurity, but enfure us good treatment from 
 tlie camel-drivers on the road. At five o'clock they came to pay 
 their refpefls to us -, and we have promifed the head-man, who 
 we find is the chief of the camel-drivers of Ghinnah, and an officer 
 of no fmall confequence, a prefent of a drefs on our arrival at 
 Cairo. His camels are to be ready to-morrow evening, when we 
 are to fet out on our journey through the wildernefs. We fiiall, 
 in all likelihood, fall into the track of the children of Ifrael, 
 when they fled from the verdant banks pf the Nile, and took re- 
 fuge on the fliores of Arabia. We are to ftrike into the road to Suez, 
 to flaun the parties that hover about the river j and it was not far 
 below that city, that the Ifraelites were fuppofed to have eroded 
 the Red-fea. I cannot, however, fupprefs my regret, at lofing 
 this opportunity of going down the Nile. Had I been a man 
 who travelled for his amufement, I fhould not probably have ex- 
 perienced this difappointment. I would have waited here, agree- 
 ably to an offer which the fiiaik made, or have gone to Jirje, as 
 the little Turk propofed, until the troubles on the river were 
 fubfided. No obftacle fhould have deterred me from exploring 
 the courfe of fo celebrated a flream, but my being charged with 
 bufinefs of a public nature, which will not admit of delay. The 
 importance of this charge has been the rule of conduct of, at 
 leall, Mr. Hammond and myfelf. It induced us to commit our- 
 felves to an open boat in the Red-fea, in the hotteft and moll un- 
 favorable fealbn of the year ; and it now prompts us to embark 
 
 N n 2 chearfuUy
 
 cliearfully In a journey through a defart, unknown even to thehi- 
 habitants of the country -, and which, except in the inftances I 
 have recited, has not been traverfed for this centuiy paft, by any 
 but the outcafts of the human kind ! 
 
 In the afternoon we were vifited by three Chriflian merchants, 
 who live at Dundara, a town about three hours, or twelve miles 
 diftancedown the river. They are come here to compliment the 
 fliaik on his return, and are the moil creditable people of the 
 mercantile clafs whom we have feen. They had turbans of a blue 
 checkered pattern, to diftinguifli them from Muffulmen ; and no 
 native Chriftian is allowed to wear them of other colors, though 
 this reflriftion is not enforced with ftrangers. Thefe merchants 
 inform us, that there is an Italian gentleman, who has refided at 
 Dundara for thefe thirty years paft, and who is a painter by pro- 
 feffion. But we find that he has exercifed his art rather for his 
 amufement than profit ; and that his own houfe alone is adorned 
 with the productions of his pencil. We are curious to know the 
 adventures which brought fuch a chara6ter to fettle in this obfcure 
 corner, and, did our time permit, we fhould readily accept of 
 thefe merchants' offer to bring us together. Notwithftanding the 
 unfavorable difpofition of his fubjefts towards them, every thing 
 Gonfpires to prove the fliaik' s affedlion for Chriftians. All his 
 principal domeftics, and particularly his fecretaries, who enjoy 
 his unlimited confidence, are of this perfuafion. Indeed, all 
 ranks of them join to found the praifes of the prefent fiiaik, who 
 Hands between them and the opprefTion of the Arabs. He has 
 been their guardian for forty years and upwards ; and I fear there 
 will be a great change in their fituation at his death. 
 
 TUESDAY, 2d September. 
 
 We wei'e furrounded this morning by a croud of fervants be- 
 longing to the fliaik, who expe6l money from us. Though we 
 
 might
 
 [ ^77 li 
 might have got rid of them, by threatening to complain of their 
 infolence, we chofe to avoid the odium of fuch a meafure ; and 
 called upon the hakeem to accommodate the matter for us. Thofe 
 who aflifted to punifh the offenders, we agreed to gratify with a 
 piece of gold each : and the hakeem cUfmiffed the reft, as not be- 
 ing entitled to our bounty. 
 
 At eight o'clock w^ had a mefiage from the fliaik to attend 
 him. We found him, as before, encompaffed by his principal 
 courtiers ,• and he obligingly dellred us to feat ourfelves upon 
 carpets befide him. He told us, that he had folicited our pre- 
 fence, to give us into the charge of the mafter of his camels,, 
 who is dignified with the title of a fhaik. This man was ac- 
 cordingly called before us, and the fhaik addrefTing him by the. 
 name of Hadgee Uttalah, informed him, that he was to convey 
 us and our baggage fafe to Cairo ; and that fhould we prefer 
 the leaft complaint againft his condu6l, his head fhould anfwer 
 for it. Nothing could be more fatisfaftory to us, than a charge 
 like this, fo publicly delivered; and of the weight of which, 
 Hadgee Uttalah himfelf appeared to be fo fully fenfible. It not 
 only tended to fecui'e us from the danger of treachery on the 
 road, but the warmth with which the fhaik efpoufed our caufe, 
 was, in our opinion, the ftrongeft" bulwark we could have againft 
 the fecret malevolence of our enemies. The good old man be- 
 came very familiar with us, and aflced a thoufand queftions con- 
 cerning the natural and artificial productions of our country-. 
 He admired a china bowl which belonged to the major ; but de- 
 clined taking it, as common earthen-ware was full good enough 
 for him. From this, however, he took occafion to mention :an 
 European, who had been long in his fervice, and had the inr- 
 genuity to imitate china very clofely. He called for a fpecimen 
 of this fellow's fkill ; and we were furprized to fee a couple of 
 vafes delicately wrought and painted. We were defirous to be- 
 9 hold
 
 [ 273 ] 
 
 hold the artift-, but were informed by the fliaik, that he was left 
 behhid at a town up the river. We now heard many droU 
 anecdotes of this Englifliman, as he called himfelf. That he 
 delighted in high-feafoned difhes, and drai"ik fuch a quantity of 
 fpirits, that it was a wonder his infide was not confumed by fire. 
 This intemperance fuited but ill with the fimplicity and fobriety 
 of the Arabians. But the Ihaik was polite enough to fay, that 
 the report which had been made to him of our mode of living, 
 had effaced the difagreeable imprelFions which he had received of 
 our countrymen. He would venture to add, however, that one 
 article of luxury, which he obferved to be in ufe at our table, 
 had given rife to the ideas of our wealth, and fingled us out as 
 a beneficial prize to his covetous fubje<5ls. And this was the 
 filver, of which our cups and fpoons were compofed. To a 
 people who were accuftomed to wooden utenfils, that glit- 
 tering metal was a bait, which had allured them to an 
 unjuft though tempting purfuit. Far as it was from exculpat- 
 ing the condu6t of the Arabs, we could not but feel the force 
 of this oblique reproof. The modeft manners of the antient 
 Romans, when in the meridian of their greatnefs, recurred to 
 our imaginations. We blufhed for our deviating fo much from 
 their example, in the prefence of a man, who trod in their foot- 
 fteps without a mark to dire<5l him. And perhaps, for once in 
 our lives, we defpifed the fymbols of oftentation and the effemi- 
 nacy of falhion ! 
 
 While we were thus engaged, the relations of the foldier who 
 murdered Mahomet, together with the camel-drivers of the cara- 
 van, were brought before the fliaik. They were accompanied 
 by tlie father and brother of the deceafed, who appeared as pro- 
 fecutors. The witneffes for the culprit making little or no de- 
 fence, the trial was foon concluded ; and fentence of death was 
 paffed upon him by the fliaik. Although the murderer came a 
 
 prifoner
 
 [ 279 3 
 
 prifoner yefterday from Cofire, it is remarkable, that he was not 
 prefent on this occafion, nor allowed to offer any thing in bar 
 to his condemnation. If, however, the falutary laws of our free 
 conftitution are wanting here, the lofs would not be felt, could 
 this country continue to boaft of its prefent equitable judge. 
 But thofe laws were provided to guard as much againfl the en- 
 croachments of the crown, as the machinations of the fubjed. 
 Happy the foil in which they flourilli ! Thrice happy the people 
 who bade beneath the funfliine of freedom ; and depend not upon 
 the uncertain character of a chief magiftrate ; upon the virtues or 
 vices of a king ! 
 
 As the name of the young fliaik of Cofire has not been men- 
 tioned in this trial, we fuppofe that he was wronged by report, 
 or fkreened by intereft from the charge in which his comrade was 
 involved. It had come to the Shaik Ul Arab's ears, that this 
 young man and his father had extorted money and effefts from 
 us. The accufation had been framed by his courtiers, who were 
 perhaps, jealous of the advantages they had derived from us; and 
 every perfuafion was now ufed to make us acquiefce in it. Had 
 we given fcope to our refentment againft this treacherous pair, it is 
 likely, that we fliould have fupported the accufation; which 
 opened a way to redrefs for their impofitions at Cofire, and their 
 inhumanity in betraying us into the hands of fuch villains at 
 Ghinnah. But one good aclion which they performed towards 
 us, outweighed the multitude of their mifdeeds in our minds. 
 We remembered that our lives and property had been at their 
 mercy, both at Cofire, and in the road to this place. The firft 
 had not been attempted by themj and when the laft could not 
 have been with-held from them, we acknowledged a merit in their 
 forbearance, when the principle which excited them to extort a 
 part, could have put them in pofl^efTion of the whole. Wedk as 
 this reafoning may appear to the flicklcrs for juftice, it had 
 
 force
 
 [ 28o ] 
 
 force enough with us to operate in favor of the delinquents. 
 We knew the unlicenfed tempers of the Arabs, and it was 
 i>ut fair to judge of them by their own rule of aflion. We 
 declined, therefore, the fliaik's kind offer to call thefe fellows 
 to account; and profeffed an ignorance of their being any other- 
 wife acceflary to our misfortunes, than by their fatal recommen- 
 dation to the family now before us. 
 
 We had no latent meaning in this application, but the venera- 
 ble fhaik did not let it pafs unnoticed. He pointed out the cer- 
 tainty of the deteftion of villainy, either fooner or later. He de- 
 duced it fi'om the inflance which was now before him j where, 
 without a friend to take our part, the wrongs which we had fuf- 
 fered had accidentally come to his knowledge, and the authors 
 thereof had been punifhed according to their deferts. He 
 called upon the father of Ally to own, that the hand of Pro- 
 vidence was to be feen through the whole of this tranfaflion. That 
 his fons were but the inftruments of our fafety, though avowedly 
 our enemies ; and under the notion of enriching themfelves at 
 ,our expence, had prevented our falling into the lurking perils 
 which awaited us on the river. But that their intentions had been 
 juftly rewarded. While we were flieltered under royal patronage, 
 one of his fons had fallen in a conteft, about the very pro- 
 perty of which he had deprived us -, and the other was crip- 
 pled with blows, and covered with difgrace on the fame ac- 
 count. The confufion of Ally and his father was not to be 
 concealed at this incident. They feemed to be fufRciently hum- 
 bled by the melancholy end of Mahomet, but this pathetic exhor- 
 tation of the fhaik's had an evident effedl upon their feelings -, and 
 the heart muft be corrupt indeed, that was not amended by it. 
 For my own part, I never was fo edified by the difcourfe of a di- 
 ■idne, as I have been, by liftening to the fentiments of this un- 
 Jearned Mahometan. And it is not to be wondered at. His lan- 
 guage
 
 [ 28l ] 
 
 gnage was that of the heart, and his opinions breathed the fra- 
 grance of truth. His do6lrine was a refle6lion of his life, and 
 both equally bright and unfullied. When he admoniftied, he 
 direfted himfelf to the confciences of his audience; and he never 
 failed to convince, though it is plain he failed to reform *. 
 
 At ten o'clock we took our leave of the fhaik, but are to fee 
 him again before our departure, which is fixed for ten o'clock at 
 night. On our return home we met a man carrying a red flag, 
 and uttering aloud fome proclamation. His head was crowned 
 with a chaplet of bays, and the croud were very attentive to his 
 words. We enquired into the purport of his bufinefs, and were 
 told, that he was an herald, who daily gives notice of the rifmg of 
 the Nile. We underftand that it is now near its greateft height; 
 and expert, when we get into the flats of Lower Egypt, to find the 
 country entirely under water. 
 
 We 
 
 * From apaflage which I have lately met with in Dr. Pococke's Travels through 
 Egypt, I am induced to think that he encountered this amiable perfonage, and was 
 indebted to him for letters, which procured him both civility and proteftion during 
 his voyage up the Nile. Ifman Abu Ally was, from our information, poflefled of 
 his prefent dignity in the year 1737, and, of all the Arabians, was the moft likely 
 to extend his humanity to ftrangers. The paffage is this ; 
 
 " On the 3d of January, the wind not favoring us, we flopped at a place abcfut 
 three miles from * Furfhout. Here refides the great fliaik t> who is governor of all 
 the country on the weft as far as, AfTouan. I waited on the fhaik's fecrctary, with a pre- 
 fent of five or fix pounds of coffee ; in return, he fent a live flieep to the convent to 
 entertain me with, and introduced me to the fhaik, who was in an Arab drefs, fitting in 
 a corner of a room. He rofe on my entrance, and my fervant brought in my prefent, 
 which confifted of two boxes of prunellas, two of other fweetmeats, and fome glafs 
 veffels. He afked where I intended to go ? I told him, to the CataraiSt. He replied, 
 with a good-natured fmile, that a boat of Franks % lately went up ; and that the peo- 
 ple faid, they came to difcover the way into the country,, in order to return and 
 
 O o take 
 
 I* Furlhout is in the neighborhood of Ghinnah. 
 ■ ■}■ The literal meaning of the Shaik Ul Arab. 
 J In this boat was Capt. Nordsn, well known for his accurate accounts of th? antiquities of Egypt,
 
 [ ^82 ] 
 
 ■ We have been employed the whole day in preparing for our cr- 
 pedition. Bread, bifcuit, and flour were brought us in the after- 
 noon, fufficient to ferve us a fortnight; and with the beans pro- 
 vided for our camels, run us up a bill of eighty dollars. But in 
 this account are included a fheep and an half, which are fried 
 down in clarified ghee or butter, and twenty new (kins to carry 
 our water. With this flock, we truft at leafl to keep famine 
 from our heels, in this journey through the inhofpitable wild 
 which divides us from Cairo. We had paid the balance of our 
 camel-hire, which amounted in the whole to 150 dollars; and were 
 In readinefs to attend the fliaik, previous to our departure. But 
 the camel-drivers are either fuperflitious, or have fomething to de- 
 tain them until to-morrow night. They came to us about eight 
 o'clock, and told the hakeem it had juft occurred to them, that 
 to-morrow was the new moon ; a time above all other the moft 
 lucky to commence a journey. He appeared very angry at their 
 having adopted fuch an idea at fo late an hour ; and finding that 
 no arguments could conquer their defire to remain here to-night, 
 he referred them to the fhaik for an anfwer. The good old man 
 was vexed at the delay they intended us. But his good-nature in- 
 dined him to their fide. He fent for Ibrahim, and dire6led him 
 fe tell us, that though the requeft was abfurd in itfelf,'the 'hu- 
 moring their prejudices would be the readieft way to enfnre tire 
 regard of thefe people. We fubmitted without a murmur to this 
 irkfome detention ; and the more fo, as the fliaik has added to his 
 former kindnefs, by giving a camel to our conduftor Hadgee Ut- 
 talah, to fave us that expence. .^l^e-l^d a(c :;f r^ni • .- •>.'--• 
 -Oiq imod f')OQhi'- onfjufinf z\t\ -^H r*: We 
 
 tike it ; AnA then dtfired to know what I wanted to fee ? I told hinx the ruined ci- 
 ties. He oblervcJ, that we had no fiicii ruins in England, and afked, whether, if 
 they Ihould go into our country, we would permit them, to fee ever-^ 'thing ; adding, 
 that he would give me letters, and a man to go with me, fo that I might be affured 
 I fjiould tiRVfl Ucurely." Chap. ^ Pococke's Travels. 
 
 10
 
 We have juft heard that the fiiaik has changed the fentence of 
 death which was paffed on the prifoner this morning, to a long 
 imprifonment. It feerns, that an execution has not been knowii 
 during his reign ; and he means to continue this ill-judged lenity. 
 But this will be but of little avail to the affaflin, provided one of 
 his family does not fall a facrifice in the interim, to the relations 
 of the deceafed. This kind of retribution is exercifed with impu- 
 nity in this country; and one life will glut the vengeance of the 
 profecutors, though the offender himfelf efcape. But this is only in 
 refpedt to each other. Should a Chriftian but accidentally fpill the 
 blbod of aMuffulman, an hecatomb of his perfuafion would fcarcely 
 fuffice to expiate the offence. i. 
 
 lilgta jiiodB it! oi amsa \3il nodi nhx 
 
 ^fi' WEDNESDAY, 3d September. 
 
 It now appears likely that none of our letters have reached Mr. 
 Baldwin. The camels are returned that carried the company of 
 Turks away -, and we were furprized that no anfwer was come to 
 the letter, which we entrufted to the Chriflian domeflic. But on 
 difcourfmg with tladgee Uttalah, we find that they did not go to 
 .X^Pairo. The Turks were formerly in the fervice of Ibrahim Beg, 
 and though they purpofed to have defer ted to the party of Ifmaul 
 Beg, their hearts either relented or failed them, and they halted at a 
 town on the river, two days fliort of the capital. We have, there- 
 fore, the greater reafon to congratulate ourfelves on the genero- 
 fity of the Shaik Ul Arab ; as no application could have been 
 made to him in our behalf, until our misfortunes reached, Mr. 
 Baldwin. By his influence, we are in every refped better pro- 
 vided for a journey, than when we left Cofire. We can depend 
 more upon the goodnefs of the camels, and the honefly of the 
 ,d,rivers.;;; We.have proviffons in plenty, and are furn]iTied be- 
 - fides with limes, to affift in quenching our thirJ3;.j :,,x.VV'e -have 
 Ci ^ O o 2 dried
 
 [ 284 ] 
 
 dried dates with us, to vary our meals. This fruit, when 
 dried, is much preferable to that frefli from the tree ; and 
 when eaten with bread, is both a pleafant and nouriftiing food. 
 We expeft to be but nine or ten days on the road; and as 
 we go by ourfelves, we are in hopes to perfuade the Arabs to 
 follow our diretlions— to travel the greater part of the night, and to 
 lie by during the heat of the day. This mode of a6lion will pre- 
 fei-ve us much from the fufferings, which we underwent du- 
 ring our late journey. But we muft truft to chance for a fhelter 
 from the fun at our different halting-places, as there is no fuch 
 conveniency as a tent to be procured here. 
 
 As we are on the point of leaving Ghinnah, it may be expefted 
 that I drop fome obfervations on the cuftoms and manners of the 
 inhabitants. But in a narrative of this kind, the reader will ga- 
 ther more information from thecondu6l of the aftors themfelves, 
 than from an autlior's defcription of them. Their general treat- 
 ment of us is the beft glafs from which their piftures can be re- 
 fiefted ; while the particular behavior of one or two individuals, 
 is a convincing proof, that virtue is the common inheritance of 
 mankind, and is confined to no enlightened fpot. It remains then 
 only for me to fay a few words on points, too unimportant to 
 have come into view before. No people are plainer in their 
 drefs, which in the lower clafs is generally of blue linen. Thofe 
 -of the higher rank endeavor to ape the fafhion of the Turks. 
 They are arrayed indeed in fdks and woolens, but without lace 
 and embroidery. They are univerfally modeft in their behavior^ 
 decent in their converfation, and fober in their way of life. Ga- 
 ming is unknown to them ; and ftrong liquors in fuch little 'fe- 
 queft, that we. found but few Arabians, who broke through the 
 precept of their religion, which forbids the ufe of them. But the 
 vices they pofiefs, are fufficient to eclipfe the luftre of thefe good 
 qualities. Were it not for the chenpnefs of provifions, the po- 
 verty
 
 [ 285 ] 
 
 verty of the people would bear hard upon them . But for the va- 
 lue of a penny, each man can provide for the day. Befide meat 
 and poultry, which are in great plenty, the river fupplies them 
 with fine fifli at the loweft rates ; and eggs are fold at a penny the 
 dozen. Thefe things we can declare from ocular demonftration ; 
 and from our window we can fee the menial fervants of the fliaik 
 receive their daily pay, which, we are afTured, does not exceed the 
 value of a penny. Water is their only drink, except it be mixed 
 with coffee ; enough of which may be procured for a penny, to 
 treat a company of vifitors ; a fact of which we had frequent ex- 
 perience. But the fimplicity of this race is befl 'to be deduced 
 from the tigure which their head makes. The Shaik Ul Arab is 
 very abflemious in his diet, and plain in his equipage. There is 
 nothing magnificent about him ; and he generally appears in a 
 black gown, which is very fine, and refembles our bombafin. 
 His turban is of muilin ; and the only finery about him, an 
 orange or ftraw- colored fhaul, which is carelefsly thrown acrofs 
 his {houlders. He carries no ai*ms about him -, which we ob- 
 ferved to be the cafe of all the old men, to proclaim, we fup- 
 pofe, that war is no longer their province. fn 
 
 There is no trull to be repofed in the word of a camel- 
 driver. We fent to the fhaik at five o'clock in the evening, 
 to requeft our final audience j and found to our furprize, that 
 Hadgee Uttalah was with him, to demand our journey to be 
 poftponed until the morning. Ibrahim rem.onftrated in our 
 name againil this pi'oceeding, and the fhaik was enraged at its in'- 
 folence. But his anger was of as little confequence as our regreh 
 There was no prejudice now to be removed, but an obftacle mote 
 infurmountable. The camels are not ready, and there is no help 
 forlhe delay. ■' ! 
 
 eta. ■rii io^ 
 
 T PI U R 3-
 
 r a86 1 
 
 T H U R S D'2^¥i 4th SE?tE^^#kR; 
 
 It is a matter of the greateft furprize to a rational being, to 
 perceive mankind given to falfehood, without a beneficial end in 
 view. And no where, as I have had occafion elfewhere to ob- 
 ferve, is this praftice fo frequently to be met with, as among the 
 Arabians. By telling one lye, tlie camel-drivers have reduced 
 themfelves to the neceflity of adding an hundred to it. On their 
 coming to us this morning, we reproached them with their du- 
 plicity in the prefence of the hakeem ; and demanded to depart 
 immediately, as the only recompence they could make us for our 
 many difappointments. On this the whole myftery was unravel- 
 led.' ; We found that fome of their camels had been fo much fa- 
 tigued in their late expedition, that they were not able to travel 
 before. But it is their genius to difguife the truth at all times ; 
 and they made ufe of a thoufand fliifts to evade our departure, 
 rather than difclofe the real ftate of the cafe. Our difpleafure is, 
 therefore, rather directed at their folly, than their villainy -, and 
 now we have got to the bottom of the affair, our chagrin is con- 
 fulerablv leffened at this unexpecled detention. We have even 
 (Gonfented, by their advice, to poftpone our departure until night; 
 when our movement will be more private, and not interrupted by 
 the croud of mendicants which await our charity. This flep was 
 enforced by the hakeem's report, who recommended, by all means, 
 ill\U we Ihould fet out after dark. , wgn£iii 3g£ix;o>n3 iiiw 
 
 vtiAtnine o'clock we attended the liakeem to the flaalk's houle^ 
 Ao receive our pafs, and to take our leave of our benefacloi-. We 
 iartived there in the midil of a trial of the camel-people, for a 
 robbery on the deeeafed Mahomet. After fitting about half an 
 hour in a kind of lobby, we were advifed to fend in our names. 
 On dding this, we were ufhered into the room where the court
 
 was held, and after the ufual falutations, we were foated on a 
 raifed place to the right of the fhaik. His politenefs diclated a 
 few queftions to us, after which he proceeded to the trial. We 
 were not forry to have bur curiofity fatisfied in this particular ; 
 and we attended with great patience to the procefs. There is no 
 jury in this court of juftice, nor any judge but the flwik, whofe 
 will is the law of the realm. When the evidences have beeii 
 given by the witnelTes, they are crofs-examined by the grandeei=, 
 who compofe thfe council. .The fliaik liftens 'attentively tOi:siU- 
 that paffes, forms a judgment of the fac^, and at length pro- 
 nounces the final fentence. At eleven o'clock we made a mo- 
 tion to take our leave, and were difmiffed by the good old man 
 with an hearty benediftion, and very cordial wifhes for the fuc- 
 cefs of our journey. In our hearing he repeated the charge to 
 Hadgee Uttalah, to put us down at the Englifli faflory at Cairo ; 
 and not to return, without a letter under our hands and feals, to 
 advife him of our fafety, at the peril of his life. To fecure his 
 fidelity beyond the reach of temptation, the fliaik alfo directed, 
 that the family of Hadgee Uttalah fliould be placed under a 
 guard, as the furefl hoftagcs for the integrity of his condu6l. 
 Our hearts were full enough at the idea of parting with this 
 amiable chara6ter, but this laft proof of his more than paternal 
 care of us, had fuch an effefl upon our feelings, that we were 
 glad to retire, and conceal the ebullitions of our gratitude. The 
 uniform greatnefs of foul which diftinguifhes this Mahometan, 
 will encourage flrangers to enter his country without fear. xA.nd 
 iti'^ not \mpleafing to us to reflect, that our misfortunes may 
 contribute to the fecurity of future travellers. They called forth 
 the virtues <>f this prince from the fliade of oblcurityi; and will 
 be a leilbn to his fubjefts, ever to refpe^l the rights ofuhoa^ 
 .Biauity. , ,;.,.. ..._■_. . _ ::,■ ... -;;■:,:! 
 
 -^i:jAs we returned home we w-ere joiiied by the Jittje. Tuyki ^'^ho 
 
 was
 
 [ 288 ] 
 
 \Vas fo afirduous to engage our company by water. We an? 
 concerned to feparate from him, but he declines our offer to ac- 
 (■ommodate him by land. He confeffes, however, that he i^ 
 under no apprehenfions for us, though he does not chufe to 
 rifk his property in the defart. There is fomething inexplicable' 
 in this ; but our confidence in the fliaik is too firmly rooted, to 
 be fliaken by the fulpicions of others. We obferved that the 
 Turk was much deje<R:ed at our approaching departure j and 
 partly guefling at the caufe, when we got home, with the con- 
 currence of my companions, I flipped twelve dollars into his 
 hand, to bear his expences down the Nile. His countenance in- 
 ftantly brightened up at this prefent j and he refumed his face- 
 tious difpofition during the day, which he dedicated to us. We 
 had already been indebted to his afliflance in preparing for our 
 journey ; and the major now gave him the charge of his china 
 bowls, wliich were to be delivered to Mr. Baldwin at Cairo. 
 W^ alfo obliged the Turk with many odd things, which were 
 fuperfluous to u s. But he had fome trouble in conveying them 
 out of the houfe, from the vigilance of the domeftics, who were 
 doubtlefs dlredcd by their mafter to have an eye to his mo- 
 tions. 
 
 Now we have feen our laft of the fliaik, the hakeem intimates 
 that he cannot part with us, without a further gratification. 
 This Abaffee ! this flave ! who cannot fit down in the prefence 
 of his mafter, though raifed by his favor to the government of 
 this city, has the afiiirance to affume airs of confequence, and 
 tO'truft to our moderation for putting up with them. Befides 
 our former gifts, he came in for one of the (hauls which we re- 
 covered from the vizier, who, in our opinion, was as much en- 
 titled to it as himfelf. He is now defirous of my filver hookah, 
 though Ibrahim has informed him of its being packed up. Its 
 ralue chiefly lies in the workmanfliip ; and it is more curious 
 
 2 than
 
 I 2Bg ] 
 
 than ufeful to me. To prevent further importunities, I have fent 
 it to this fellow, though it gave me the trouble of unpacking 
 a trunk. I am fenfible that he would be degraded from his 
 office, were the fhaik acquainted with his behavior. But he too 
 much conlides in our former concealment of his meannefs, to 
 be afraid of the confequences : and builds upon our generofity 
 to repeat the offence. The fliaik has already been put to fo 
 much trouble on our account, that we would overlook a great 
 many impofitions, fooner than difturb his repofe with fi'efh 
 complaints. We have already caufed fome changes in his ad- 
 miniftration ; and it would be in us but a bad requital for all 
 his favors, to foment differences between him' and his favorite 
 fervants, on light occafions. 
 
 We quickly experienced the good effects of our compliance with 
 the hakeem's humor. He fent for the camel-drivers, to remind 
 them of the treatment which they were to give us on the road; 
 and fettled the ceconomy of our journey, and other points, which 
 they had difputed with Ibrahim. When the fun fets, the ca- 
 mels are to be brought to the door to take up our baggage, 
 which is now reduced to half of its original bulk. After fup- 
 per we are to bid our long-wifhed-for adieu to Ghinnah ; which 
 it mufl be remembered, we owe to the virtue of one man ! 
 
 At fun-fet Hadgee Uttalah came haftily to our houfe, and told 
 us, that as we had paid ten dollars apiece for the other camels, 
 he expefted fifteen to be paid him, for the prime beaft he was to 
 ride himfelf. We were congratulating ourfelves before we were 
 quit of this griping caff. We knew the fhaik had prefented him 
 with the price of this very camel, but the fellow had timed his 
 application fo well, that we were fain to comply with it. We 
 were about to fet off, and neither our hafte nor the late hour, 
 would have admitted of our communicating the affair to the 
 iliaik. We had no money remaining that the Arabs knew of; but 
 
 P p the
 
 [ 290 ] 
 
 the old fox got over this difficulty, by offering to take our note 
 of hand, payable at Cairo. We were the more reconciled to this 
 expedient, as it feemed to intereft our conductor in our arrival 
 at that city. 
 
 Our baggage was placed upon the camels, and we took our 
 leave of feveral people who had been civil to us ; particularly the 
 quondam hakeem, in whofe behalf we had ineffe£lually exerted 
 ourfelves with the fhaik. At nine o'clock we mounted our 
 beafts, with the fame number of attendants as when we left 
 Cofire : an Arab related to Abdul Ruffar, fupplying the place 
 of the Indian Fakeer. We direfled our way towards the great 
 mofque by which we entered the city, where we are to take up 
 our water ; accompanied by the hakeem and a party of horfe, 
 who paid us this compliment by the order of the fhaik. 
 
 When we came to the watering-place a new matter was hatched, 
 more fcandalous than any they had yet attempted. We had paid 
 'for fifteen camels, and given a promlfTory note for the hire of 
 another. Now it was that fome of the owners of the camels, 
 (of which there are three befides our condudor) applied for 
 three additional beafts, under pretence of lightening our baggage, 
 which they did not conceive would have turned out fo heavy. 
 Much altercation now enfued. We were juftly nettled at a de- 
 mand which had all the appearance of an impofitionj and 
 loudly called upon the hakeem to take us back to his houfe. 
 We threatened to acquaint the fKaik in the morning with their 
 ill ufage. Nay, we even pretended to have changed our minds 
 touching the route ; and declared that we would rather hazard 
 ourfelves on the river, than among people, who prefumed to treat 
 lis in this manner. This refolution feemed to alarm them. 
 'They prevailed upon the hakeem to vouch for their honefty. They 
 declared that the propofal was meant purely for our intereft. 
 To prevent our baggage from being left among the mountains, 
 
 and
 
 s aouM. 
 
 !>7fff 
 
 '.iUl Oi."
 
 ^ 
 
 Offf^i/etay,' '^1
 
 and to fecure our lives in cafe of an attack, it was necefTaiy for 
 us to travel with light camels. That we knew not the arduous 
 undertaking in v/hich we had engaged ; or we fliould fcarcely 
 hefitate to confult the only means, to fmoothe the difficulties be- 
 fore us. Their application had indeed been too late. But to (!e- 
 monftrate their fnicerity, they were content to be at half of the 
 expence, rather than be in want of the camels ; and to take our 
 note for the fifteen dollars, payable at Cairo. The candor of 
 this offer reconciled us to the expence ; and we had experienced 
 too many delays to contend any further about it. One of the 
 owners returned to the city to colleft the additional camels, and 
 bring them after us. At eleven o'clock we moved on, and were 
 ftill accompanied by the hakeem, whom we flrongly fufpedled to 
 be concerned in the lafl manoeuvre of the camels. He preceded 
 us for about j quarter of a mile on the road ; when the troop 
 faced fuddenly round, and, after paying us a complimentary fa- 
 lute, went off at a full gallop towards the town. We con- 
 tinued our march in a chearful mood, and going to the north, 
 foon left the trees and the river behind us. Our waylay through 
 a flony and uneven foil j and the moon is too young to afTift 
 our camels to pick out their road by night. At two o'clock we 
 halted, and fpread our carpets upon a very rugged and uncom- 
 fortable place. We were three hours in motion, but find that 
 our diftance from Ghinnah does not exceed five miles. I have 
 here affixed a map of Upper Egypt, where the reader is prefented 
 with the courfe of the Nile, and may purfue our route through 
 the defarts of Thebais. 
 
 FRIDAY, 5th September, 
 
 I awoke at day-break with my eyes much inflamed and dif- 
 ordered» I have felt a weaknefs in them for fome time, which 
 
 P p 2 proceeded
 
 [ 2^2 ] 
 
 proceeded from a cold in my head : and after fleeping under 
 cover for this month paft, it is natural that the night air Ihouid 
 have a bad effefl \ipon my eyes. I dread the journey a little on 
 this account, and fliall not be furprifed to have a confirmed hu- 
 mour in them before our arrival at Cairo, We are prevented 
 going forward, by the additional camels not being come up. 
 At eight o'clock Hadgee Uttalah fet off for Ghinnah in fearch of 
 them, and v^^as accompanied by his fon. As this movement 
 prefented us with a profpecl of remaining here the greater part 
 of the day, we eredted a kind of tent with a cloth ftretched 
 over our baggage, beneath which we made a fhift to creep, to 
 fhelter us from the fun. But we had but a difagreeable time of 
 it. What with the fufpence, the heat of the weather, and fome 
 fufpicions which were propagated among us, of the honefty of 
 our camel-drivers, the hours pafled very heavily. It was whif- 
 pered to us by Ibrahim, that thefe fellows were not prepared for 
 our expedition; and had only brought us out hei^e to deceive the 
 Hiaik, who was enraged at their delay. As a proof of this, he 
 told us at ten o'clock that the camels were about to leave us. 
 We fallied out of our neft on this alarm, and found on enquiry, 
 that the camels were only going to the Nile, to fill up the Ikins 
 with water. But the folly of Ibrahim and the reft of our fer- 
 vants, was very near being produftive of ferious confequences. 
 They were of opinion that we ought to return with the camels 
 to Ghinnah, and to apply to the fhaik for a more trufty conduftor. 
 Never, until this moment, had the notions of Ibrahim deviated fo 
 -much from propriety. But the honefty of his intentions gave 
 ■'-them a weight, which I am convinced they would not otherwife 
 have had ; and it was aflually debated amongft us, whether we 
 nofliould return or not ! So precipitate and ill-advifed aftep, would 
 not only have betrayed our unconquerable jealoufy of the Arabs, 
 but in all likelihood, have funk us in the efteem of the fhaik. 
 5 It
 
 [ 293 ] 
 
 It was happily over-rnled ; and the camels were permitted to go 
 quietly on their neceflary errand. 
 
 At two o'clock the camels returned ; and on numbering the 
 water-ikins, we found them to amount to thirty. This is a 
 great ftore ; but, from our former experience, may prove little 
 enough for our wants, before we reach the next watering-place. 
 We would not break upon our provifion, as our journey was not 
 commenced ; and made a fhift therefore to dine upon dates and 
 bread. At four o'clock we were agreeably ftruck with the ap- 
 pearance of Hadgee Uttalah, and the Arab who went laft night 
 in queft of the camels. They brought but two, and Hadgee 
 came without his fon. On enquiring into the reafon of this 
 diminution of our guard, we learn that the (haik has detained 
 the fon, as a pledge for the fmcerity of the father. We infer 
 from this, that the fhaik was not pleafed with our delay here ; 
 and has therefore exacted this new hoftage from our conductor, 
 to exprefs his diffatisfadion. 
 
 Our baggage was now replaced upon the camels ; but a full 
 hour was loft in difputes among the owners, touching the bur- 
 dens to be afligned to their feveral beafts. Thefe were, how- 
 ever, at length adjufted ; and at five o'clock in the evening, we 
 left the ground with eighteen camels in company. Our way 
 ftill lay through a ftony plain; and about fun-fet ,we mounted 
 a craggy hill, from whence we were agreeably furprized with a 
 fudden view of the river below. The land continues barren 
 until within a mile of the banks j on which, buried in a ro- 
 mantic wood, we difcerned the buildings of Dundarah, a town 
 of which I have before fpoken *. The want of population can 
 
 * According to the learned Dr. Pococke, there is a temple of Ifis in good p're- 
 fervation at Dundarah, but no remains of that of Venus, fo much celebrate<i of 
 iSii,- The peculiarity of their fituation, prevented the author and his companions 
 from indulging their curiofjty at tliat, or any other place in the neighborhood. ^ 
 
 be
 
 t 294 1 
 
 |je the only reafon, that a defart fliould extend itfelf to the vi- 
 cinity of the fineft river in the yi^orld. And to the genius of a 
 Mahometan government, muft that want be alone attributed. 
 As we defcended the hill, we loft fight of the wood and water j 
 and muft bid adieu for fome time, to fuch a regalement to our 
 fenfes. At feven o'clock we halted for the night. The Arabs 
 tell us, that the roads are too rugged and dangerous to travel 
 ,over in the dark. This is a mortification to us : but we muft 
 put up with having come but ten miles in two days, which is 
 our prefent diftance from Gliinnah. Our courfe has, however, 
 been northerly, and we are fo far in our route to Cairo. 
 
 SATURDAY, 6th September. 
 
 At half paft five this morning we refumed oui march. My eyes 
 are ftill bad, and I have fufFered great anguifh from them on the 
 road. The heat particularly afFe£ls them, though I defend them 
 as well as I can from the fun. As we went along we ftarted fe- 
 veral deer ; but they are too wild to admit of our getting a fhot at 
 them. The road ftill continues rugged, and we afcended feveral 
 hills, but could not procure another peep at the river. It is not 
 likely that we are far from it by the courfe we keep, though it will 
 behove us fhortly to maintain a refpedtable diftance, to avoid the 
 parties of Ibrahim Beg, which are faid to hover about its neigh- 
 borhood. At half paft eleven we halted to the eaftward of a pro- 
 je6ling hill, under whofe friendly ftiade we ate an hearty meal of 
 bread and meat. Our laft ftage was fix hours, or fifteen miles. As 
 we came up to this place, wedifturbed a poor deer, that had fhel- 
 tered itfelf here from the fun. Thefe animals abound in this de- 
 fart J and as we have not met with, or even heard of, any wild 
 beafts, or venomous creatures in our peregrinations, I conclude 
 Egypt to be free of them, notwithftanding the fables of antiquity. 
 
 In
 
 [ ^95 J 
 
 In India we Gonfider It as a thing almoft certain, to find tygers 
 near an herd of deer, whicli Lhcy are always )|-irerved to follow as 
 their ufual prey. When our dinner was ended, we laid down to 
 take a nap. The hour was inviting thereto, and the flay we were 
 to make here, admitting of the fweets of repofe. 
 
 When I awoke in the afternoon, Hadgee Uttalah perceived m,y 
 eyes to be much inflamed, and very kindly profFei'ed me fome re- 
 lief. The Arabs generally carry a medicine about them, for the 
 cure of a diforder to which they are fo fubje6l, from the duft an*^ 
 heat which incommode their country. Experience muft have 
 proved the efficacy of the medicine ; and I was fo remote from, 
 any hopes of afliftance, that I even ventured to fubmit my eyes to 
 the hands of this quack. The medicine is of a black thick confift- 
 ence, and, on his introducing it with an inftrument into my eyes^ 
 occafioned a momentary fmart. At four o'clock we purfued our 
 journey, and keeping the fame dire6lion, without varying the 
 fcene, at feven o'clock we reached the foot of a prodigious high 
 mountain, which we caimot afcend in the dark. Here, therefore^, 
 we took up our abode for the night. The laft flage was three 
 hours, or feven miles, fo that we compute ourfelves to be tliirty- 
 three miles from Ghimiah. Our courfe to-day has been N., N,.E^* 
 
 ■ "V 
 SUNDAY, 7th September. c 
 
 The Arabs have a very good cuftom of drinking coffee, before 
 they leave their ground in a morning. This we have adopted,, 
 and find it much more efficacious in taking the chill off the fto- 
 mach, than the old Englifh prefcription of a dram, with which 
 we are, perhaps, luckily unprovided. By fix o'clock we had 
 accoutered our camels, and, leading them in our hands, began to 
 afcend the mountain on foot. As we mounted the ffeep, we fre- 
 qiuently blell ourfelves that we were not riding,, as the path v/as
 
 [ ,. 29.6 ] 
 
 fo narrow, the leaft falfe ftep muft have fent the be^ft down the 
 bordering precipice. But it muft be confefTed, that the camel is 
 the moft fure-footed of all beafts of burden ; nor do I recolledt in 
 this fatiguing march from fteep to fteep, that my camel ftumbled 
 once.' We were upwards of an hour climbing this mountain, anq 
 -on the top found an extenfive plain. But the profped: from hence 
 was obftrufted by the adjacent heights, which in fome places 
 overlooked th^ ground we were upon. We travelled about two 
 hours on this mountain, where ive found a fenfible difference in 
 the fharpnefs of the atmofphere, and at nine o'clock began to de- 
 fcend. We once more difmounted our camels, which we had rode 
 over the level furface, and haftened down the declivity, in a third 
 of the time which we took to go up. The path winded round the 
 fideof the mountain, and to our left an horrid chafm, fome hundred 
 fathoms deep, prefented itfelf to our view. It is furprizing no ac- 
 cident befel the loaded camels, whofe harnefs is fo bad, that they 
 were frequently flopped in the middle of a defcent, to adjuft the 
 baggage which had been dlfcompofed by the violent motion of 
 the animal. When we gained the bottom, two of the camel- 
 drivers puflied forward to fee if they could fhoot a deer. We have 
 but little dependence upon their matchlocks, which muft be reft- 
 ed to take a good aim : and though my companions have mulkets, 
 they will not rifle their reputation by trying their fkill, as they 
 have not balls that fit their pieces. We winded through the val- 
 ley, where we met with numerous thorn-trees in full bloflbm and 
 fragrance J and after along march, halted at half paft one o'clock 
 to the eaftward of an high hill. Juft before we reached this place, , 
 a ludicrous circumftance enough happened to me. I had loiter- 
 ed about two hundred yards behind, in company with three of 
 the Arabs, who fuddenly ftopped my camel, and, by figns, for- 
 bade me to proceed. This abrupt behavior roufed me from a re- 
 verie in which I was plunged > and, on my attenipting to go on, 
 
 they
 
 [ 297 ] 
 
 theyftill detained me, and frequently cried out, *' Huffal, iiur- 
 fal." I looked immediately for my companions, who, I perceiv- 
 ed, were treated in the fame manner ; and I was about to have rc- 
 courfe to my arms, in order to force a paffage to thera, when, 
 behold ! a fine buck ran acrofs the road in front of us, which was 
 followed by the report of a piece. The myftery was now unra- 
 velled, and I was in a moment delivered from the greatefl .per- 
 plexity I had ever experienced. This had arifen from my imper- 
 fe6l acquaintance with the language. The word " Huflal," 
 which had appeared to me like a term of command, I now found 
 to be a deer in Arabic. I quickly rejoined the troop, and laugh- 
 ed heartily with them at the adventure. I need not add, that we 
 did not dine upon venifon to-day. We had recourfe, however, to 
 our potted mutton, of which we muft be fparing, as our conductor 
 and the camel-owners expert to partake of it. We did not lay our 
 account with this partition, but will fubmit to it, rather than put 
 thefe people out of humour. The laft flage was feven hours and 
 an half, or nineteen miles. 
 
 At half paft three o'clock we were mounted again, and going 
 through the fame valley, in about an hour, reached the bottom of 
 another fteep mountain. We were obliged to lead our camels up, 
 and in about half an hour gained the fummit, where we found a 
 plain near two miles in length, over which we rode. At fix o'clock 
 we came to the extremity of the mountain, when our advanced 
 guard alarmed us with the news of a party of camels being in the 
 vale. As it was a fufpicious place to encounter any of our own 
 fpecies, we all took to our arms, and aflembled on the defcent, 
 which was fo craggy, and fo perpendicular, that, fmall as our 
 numbers were, we were enabled, by our fituatlon, to have coped 
 with a multitude of enemies. The llrangers had obferved our 
 motions, and drew up in a body below to wait the refult. We 
 counted no lefs than thirty camels, and deduced therefrom, that 
 
 Q^q we
 
 [ 298 ] 
 
 we fliould have two to one againft us, in cafe of hoftilitles. To- 
 gain intelligence, however, of the difpofition of the ftrangers,. 
 Hadgee Uttalah himfelf defccnded into the valley. He ventured 
 himfclf unarmed, as a token of peace; and we were not a little, 
 impatient to behold the interview which was about to take place. 
 We v/ere deeply interefted in its event j and, circumftanced as we 
 were, it is not furprizing that we fliould doubt of its fuccefs. But 
 we were happily deceived in our ideas. No fooner had Hadgee 
 Uttalah approached the new party, than he was recognized by one 
 among them, who ran with open arms to receive him. He was 
 prefently encompalTed by the reft; and we could difcern that he. 
 was ferved with coffee and bread. This ftaggered us in our opi- 
 nion of thefe people's profeflion j and we began to conceive that 
 they might be travellers like ourfelves, who, in thefe critical times,, 
 had explored the defart, in preference to the river. And we were, 
 now confirmed in this conceit, by the figns which Hadgee made 
 to us to defcend. Thefe figns were interpreted to us by our 
 Arabs, who told us there was nothing to fear. We obeyed, there- 
 fore, and went down the hill in as good order as the path would 
 admit of. We were met at the foot of it by Hadgee, who conveyed 
 us and our baggage to a fpot at fome diftance from the ftrangers, 
 and then returned to them. Many were the embraces and con- 
 gratulations that were exchanged between the Arabs on both 
 fides. The firft thing we learned was, that water is to be pro- 
 cured in this valley, which has induced our gentry to halt here, 
 and replenifli our Ikins. We arrived here at half paft fix o'clock*, 
 fo that our laft flage was three hours, or feven miles. 
 
 While Hadgee Uttalah was engaged in an earneft converfatioa 
 with the leader of the other party, Ibrahim and Abdul Ruffar came 
 to us with looks of furprize, and informed us, that they had dif- 
 covered the ftrangers to be what we at firft apprehended — a band 
 of robbers. That they had overheard one of them boaft, that this 
 7 band
 
 [ 299 ] 
 
 band took the forty camels near Cofire during our ftay in that 
 town — an anecdote which I before mentioned — and that on the 
 banks of the Nile, they had plundered a caravan but a few days 
 ago, with the fpoils of which they were now returning to their 
 own country ! It may be imagined that we were not a little ilartled 
 at this intelligence. The novelty of the circumftance did not di- 
 minifli its unpleafantnefs ; and our fituation was as alarming as 
 uncommon. We were turned adrift in a wide defart, and, in cafe 
 of oppofition, were to depend upon our arms, and the fidelity of 
 our Arabs. Even conqueft would not avail us, were we obliged 
 to fight againft our guides. In the defart only could we look for 
 fafety in this hoftile land; and we had no clue to unravel its 
 mazes, fliould we be abandoned by our people. Thefe were the 
 firft: reflexions which fuggefted themfelves j but our minds were 
 prefently relieved by the alfurances of Hadgee Uttalah, who now 
 joined us. He made no fcruple to acquaint us with the profellion 
 of the robbers ; but added, that they had as much regard for their 
 word as other people. They happily knew him, which was in- 
 deed the faving of an effufion of blood. For, on the fcore of 
 friendfhip, they had pledged their word to him, that they would 
 not meditate the leaft wrong againft us. We might truft them 
 implicitly, for the wild Arabs had never been known to break their 
 faith on fuch occafions. After this prelude, we were the lefs fuf-' 
 prized at a propofition which they had made him, to accompany 
 us to Cairo. Hadgee himfelf recommended to us to accept of it. 
 Our intereft, he faid, was every wa}^ concerned in it. They would 
 ferve us both as guides and protedlors, in this unfrequented 
 wafte : and where they once adopted a caufe, it was their cha- 
 racter to promote it at the expence of their blood. Had we dif- 
 trufted this panegyric, it was not for us to difl'ent againft the 
 opinion of our conda6tor, who was aftually the mafter of our 
 perfons and effeds. The pledges he has left at Ghinnah will prer-' 
 
 Q^q 2 vent
 
 vent his rifking his charge wantonly , and on this we rely at th.k 
 jun6lure. We have fallen into precious company ! and it behoVe^ 
 us to be on our guard as much as poflible. Never did heroes In 
 romance plunge into greater perplexities^ ; and wex-e not this 
 narrative well attefted, it might feem here to breathe the air of 
 fiftion. But the good genius which prefided over every adven- 
 ture we have atchieved, will, we truft, condu6t us fafely through 
 theprefent. ■ 
 
 At feven o'ciotk the 'cirtith belonging to the robbers went on 
 for water, and left their captain and a guard only with their bag- 
 gage. This Was a proof of confidence j but we betook ourfelves 
 to bed, with our arms by us as ufual, and got as much fleep as the 
 cold would admit of. I was fo unfortunate as to be ftripped of my 
 night-cloak at Ghinnah, and have no defence but a chintz cover- 
 lid againft the fharpnefs of the wind, which is due north, and as 
 cutting as I ever felt it out of Europe. When we begin to travel 
 
 ' at night, the motion will make us lefs fenfible of the cold. This 
 valley is, by our reckoning, fifty-nine miles from Ghinnah. Our 
 
 "^courfe to-day has been N. W. 
 
 -31 aifl 
 
 c-i -1. M ON DA Y, 8th September. 
 2B \3hit Tsadi no f^^q^ 
 
 i awoke at four o'clock this morning, and found that the ca- 
 
 "Snels belonging to the robbers were not returned from the fpring. 
 
 ^^^heir baggage lay within view of us, among which I learn there is 
 
 ^ ^xoffee, fugar, and fail- cloth, which they have lately taken, and are 
 
 ~ 'iarrying for fale into the neighborhood of Cairo. At day-break 
 
 'our camels were alfo difpatched foi- water, and left only Hadgee 
 
 Uttalah and the owners of the camels with us. As there was no 
 
 hope of our decamping before noon, to amufe myfelf after break- 
 
 "^ I'aft I fat down to tranfcribe an ode, in the compofition of which 
 
 "* i was diftuibed yefterday by the adventure of the deer. My camel
 
 [ 3°i ] 
 is the iazieft of the fet, and affords me frequent opportunities 
 for mufing, by lagging behind the reft. A pretty place for in- 
 fpiration, truly ! methinks fome critic cries. But as gay fcenes 
 give birth to gay ideas, fo the verfe portrayed in a defart, can- 
 i^ot fail to partake of its ftrong and gloomy coloring. Thqfe 
 readers who are of a difpofition to relirti fuch a pi£lure, may 
 look to the Appendix ; where, to avoid breaking the thread of 
 my fubjefl, I have placed this ode. Conceived among the ob- 
 jefts it defcribes, it is chiefly calculated for the penfive, mel^nchoty 
 heart J to which I beg leave to addrefs it. 
 
 It feems that robbery is no diflionorable profeffion among the 
 Arabs, while they confine their attacks to the people of other 
 diftricls. Their friends and acquaintances may encounter thefe 
 banditti without violation ; and it is feldom known, that they 
 lay their own countrymen under contribution. Our Arabs have 
 fallen under the former defcription, and it is to this extraordi- 
 nary obfervance of faith, that we (hall be indebted for our 
 efcape. Their cuftom is to make excurfions into diflant pro- 
 vinces, and to return to their own, with all the plunder they 
 can coUeft. They confider it rather as carrying on a petty war, 
 than as an infringement of the rights of mankind ; and in this re- 
 fpe6f, perhaps, have as much reafon and juftice on their fide, as 
 moft of thofe heroes who have defolated the earth, and whofe 
 crimes only want to be diverted of the vain eclat of uncommon 
 a6tions. The government itfelf winks at thefe proceedings, which 
 enrich its fubjefts -, and while the delinquents keep beyond the 
 immediate cognizance of juftice, they have nothing to appre- 
 hend from its refentment. And if it be confidered, tl^at many 
 of their affociates are men who have been guilty of no offence, 
 but have been obliged by the crimes of fome of their family, to 
 :take refuge in the defart, to fhun the vengeance of individuals, 
 rwe ftiould be the lefs furprized at meeting with anjinftance of 
 
 ^- humanity
 
 [ 302 ] 
 humanity and forbearance among them. The cruel policy of 
 their laws has peopled the wafte ; and driven men of fair cha- 
 racter to mingle with the vile, and to prey on the unwary tra- 
 veller ! 
 
 The captain of the gang was introduced to us by Hadgee 
 Uttalah at breakfaft, and took a cup of coffee with us. He is a 
 bold, laughing villain, of a middle fize, but large limbed : and 
 would be well-featured, were not his mouth disfigured by a deep 
 fear, which contra6ls his upper lip, and betrays the lofs of fe- 
 veral of his fore-teeth : the effedls we fuppofe of one of his ren- 
 counters ! There is a freedom in his behavior, which gains 
 liim our confidence. Far from being afliamed of his way of 
 life, he talked of his late exploit, and produced two pair of 
 morocco flippers, a Turkifli veft, and other articles of drefs, for 
 fale. Thefe we readily purchafed, to conciliate his good opinion ; 
 and uecefTity muft excufe our receiving ftolen goods, knowing 
 them to be ftolen. Abdid Rufiar bought an Alcoran, and other 
 religious books, the plunder perhaps of fome poor prieft j and 
 Ibrahim a French horfe-piftol, which will be of more flievv 
 than ufe to him. Thefe things we have procured for at leaft a 
 third of their value : and Hadgee Uttalah haa fatisfied the rob- 
 ber, for which we are to account with the former at Cairo. We 
 have been careful to inftil into our own people the belief of our 
 being deftitute of rnoney ; or God knows, what raifchief the dif- 
 covery of our real treafure-s might produce againft us. Our for- 
 tune is very peculiar. We might have gone this road a thoufand 
 tirnes, without encountering thefe freebcK)ters . Had we arrived 
 at this pafs but half an hour later, we fliould have miffed of 
 them, as they were liafting through the valley to get water, and, 
 dreamed as little as ourfelves, of-flumbiing upon human crea-r 
 turejs i^i this unfrequented wafte. But the event only can de- 
 citfe^'wiiethei" the meeting be propitious or not. We have often,- 
 
 during
 
 [ 3^3 ] 
 
 during our journey, had occafion to applaud Pope's ccleb-rated 
 maxim, that " whatever is, is right." And though fo flattering 
 to our interefls, may we not hope that even this will prove a 
 f'refli teftimony of it ? The dealings which we have had with 
 their captain, fhew that he means to a6l upon the fquare 
 with us ; and we are ftill encreafmg our debt with our Arabs, of 
 which they are to look for payment at Cairo. 
 
 At eleven o'clock their camels returned from the fpring, and 
 had their intentions been hoftile, they could not have found a 
 better opportunity to execute them, than in the abfence of a 
 great part of our force. But their ideas were of an oppofite na- 
 ture. In the afternoon they killed a young camel, in compli- 
 ment to Hadgee Uttalah j and nothing went forward but pre- 
 parations for an entertainment. This flefli the Arabs efteem be- 
 yond all other; and as they prefented us with a piece, our 
 ftomachs were not pampered enough to refufe tafting of it. 
 Though we had eaten our humble repaft, we had fufficient 
 appetite to find the meat tender and well-flavored. It is coarle 
 enough, however, and might be mifbaken for bull- beef. 
 
 At three o'clock our camels returned, with the fkins filled 
 with good water. There is a feaft however among the Arabs, 
 which cuts off our expedlations of getting away before the 
 evening, Were it not for the delay, we have not fpent a dif- 
 agreeable day in this valley. It is fo cLeep and fo narrow, 
 that there is ever a ftiade to the eaft or weft fide of it, and a 
 draft of wind drawing through, which alleviates the noon -tide 
 fervor. 
 
 We find, to our great regret, that we do not move to-night: 
 Hadgee Uttalah now tells us, that as the camel was killed on 
 our account, we cannot in decency but flay, until the ftrangers 
 have drefied and prepared it for the journey. This will take up 
 until dark, and we have another craggy mountain to pafs over. 
 
 As
 
 t m ] 
 
 As the troubles probably fubfift at Cairo, the old man propofed 
 to us a plan, to carry us to the place of thefe robbers' refidence. 
 This is fituated near the river, and but a few hours diftant from 
 that city, where he will accompany us in a boat. And the rea- 
 fon he gives for this manoeuvre, is plaufible enough. His camels 
 run a rifle of being prefled for the war, fhould he venture them 
 to Cairo. Notwithftanding it was the Shaik Ul Arab's pofitive 
 direvfVion, that the camels fhould fet us down at the Englifh fac- 
 tory, and the fcheme itfelf is not wholly to our mind, we rfluft 
 have that confideration for thefe poor creatures' property, as not 
 to hazard it wantonly at the capital, if we can be conveyed there, 
 though at a little more expence, in a boat. We have, therefore, 
 iriven our conduftor the latitude to a6l for the beft. But not to 
 forget our intereft while he promotes his own. 
 
 The crackling of fires was now heard on all fides, and the meniafl 
 Arabs were bufy in turning the large joints upon the glowing em- 
 bers. Some were dealing out their fcanty allowance to the camels; 
 while others unfheathed their glittering blades, to portion out the 
 night's repaft. Meanwhile the chiefs were afiembled apart, 
 ftretched upon the hides of fome ferocious animal, once roving and 
 lawlefs like themfelves. Their arms were thrown peaceably by 
 them J while from each mouth, a long protended tube difpenfed 
 the fra'^rant fumes of Perfia's weed. Deeds of bold hardiment are 
 now retold : and each vain-glorious boafter is hero of the fre-^ 
 quQnt tale. His province, war ! and man, his fpoil ! Thus fleet 
 the hours, 'till languor creeps upon the band, and quick refigns 
 them to the arms of fleep. ■' '^^^f^ 
 
 ndi ri: TUESDAY, Qth September. 
 
 -nT%g V/ght was (harp as ufual, which occafioned us to lie longer 
 this moi'mng to comfort ourfelves. We did not move off our 
 
 ground
 
 I .305 ] 
 
 ground until half paft fix o'clock, and the robbers then were not 
 ready to accompany us. They defired us however to proceed, 
 and promifed to follow foon after. For three hours we winded 
 through the valley we flept in, and about ten o'clock, began to 
 gain the high ground by a regular afcent. The reft of this day's 
 journey was continued over a fuccelTion of hills and dales ; where 
 the road was fo intricate and broken, that nothing but a camel 
 could get over it. The appearance of the road is fo frightful in 
 raany places, that we do not wonder, why our people have hither- 
 to laid by in the night. The air is fo piercing on the hills, that 
 we feel not the leaft inconvenience from the meridian ray. The 
 fun, indeed, is far to the fouthward in this month, and we daily 
 haften, to our great comfort, from each other: add to this, we have 
 turned our backs upon him. We can already pronounce this jour- 
 ney to be of a different complexion from our laft. The roads, it is 
 true, are more difficult and dangerous ; but the feafon is fo much 
 changed for the better, that we fcarce know what it is to thirft, or 
 to fuffer any but a partial heat. At one o'clock we entered another 
 valley, which we traverfed until half paft two, and for want of a 
 breeze, found it comfortably hot. Here we halted, and were not 
 lucky enough to gain the leaft ftielter from the fun. The change 
 was difagi-eeable enough from our late iituationin the high ground. 
 We paffed fuddenly from the extreme of cold to that of heat. 
 " Extremes by change more fierce." This valley we found to be 
 the proper watering-place : the fpring we met with yefterday, 
 being only known to the robbers who haunt the wafte. Our ca- 
 mels were accordingly difpatched to replenifh the few empty (kins, 
 and to drink themfelves, againft the long thirft they are to expe- 
 rience. We fprang a brace of partridge and feveral quail in this 
 valley, which has good cover of fragrant ftirubs. The laft ftage 
 was no lefs than eight hours, or twenty miles, and by our reckon- 
 ing, we are but feventy-nine miles from Ghinnah* Our courfe 
 
 R r to-day
 
 [ 3o6 ] 
 
 to-day has been N. N. W. We now fee that yefterday was ab- 
 fohitely a loft day, and if we travel at this rate, our provifions, as 
 well as patience, will foon fail us. 
 
 It was whifpered about that the robbers had taken a different 
 route. We had been here near two hours, and there were no 
 figns of them. This made us fufpe6l, that they had amufed us 
 with the idea of joining us, and we were rather doubtful, whether 
 the feparation would be to our advantage or not, when a little 
 after four o'clock, I faw the captain of the robbers with two at- 
 tendants, advancing towards us with a quick pace. Shortly after 
 the whole band appeared in fight, according their fteps to the tune 
 of a fong, and feemingly carelefs of the fun-beams and of the 
 world befide. They make a formidable figure, and are trebly 
 armed to what our party are. How different is the faft from 
 wJiat was reported of their difcipline and arms ! Befides his 
 matchlock, which is flung behind his back, each man has piilols 
 in his girdle, a fabre on his left fide, and a hanger on his right, 
 while in his right hand he brandifhes a fpear. They are alfo in 
 general better mounted than we ; and our having out-marched 
 them to-day, muft be attributed to the additional load they 
 have carried in the flefli of the camel. The principal part of our 
 force was abfent, and they had another fair opportunity of at- 
 tacking us to advantage. But very amicable was their falutation; 
 and they only thought of fending their camels to the fpring, which 
 met cur's returning thence. This we find will detain us here un- 
 til the morning, and is the fecond delay which thefe people have 
 occafioned us. We learn that we are to march for three days on 
 the mountains, before we defcend towards the Nile, where we are 
 to watei- next ; v^liich argues the neceffity of going from hence 
 with full Ikins. 
 
 W E D-
 
 [ 30? 11 
 
 WEDNESDAY, loth September. 
 
 , We were late as ufual in decamping this morning. The Arabs 
 feem not to relifh the morning air, and make up for the delay, by 
 marching an hour or two longer during the heat of the day : a 
 circumftance not over and above agreeable to us. But, perhaps, I 
 fpeak chiefly for myfelf, whofe eyes are Hill weak, tliough on the 
 mending hand, and much incommoded by the rays of the fun. 
 Our fa.tisfa6tions are feldom without their alloys. In a converfa- 
 tion we had with one of the owners of our camels, as we drank our 
 coffee, he let us know how much we were in the power of his 
 cpuntiymen. He had the alFurance to laugh at the idea of the Shaik 
 Ul Arab, who he faid was nobody here ; and added, that were it 
 not for himfelf and his companions, we fhould have been fVripped 
 by the robbers, and now been wandering about the defart, defli- 
 tute of food and raiment *. There was fomething in this piflure 
 that did not flatter our imaginations. Our pride was alarmed; 
 and we quickly retorted, that we never would be reduced to fuch a 
 condition, while we had a hand remaining to wield a weapon. But 
 infpiteofthis fellow's arrogance, we thought it prudent to retain 
 him in our intereft. We commended his fidelity, and appeared 
 thankful for his friendfhip, which we promifed to fliew a proper 
 fenfe of on our arrival at Cairo. His behavior, indeed, is quite the 
 reverfe to that of Hadgee Uttalah, who is not only a quiet, civil 
 body, but one, who fpeaks of his Ibvereign with deference and re- 
 fpe6t. 
 
 At half paft fix o'clock we began to afcend a mountain nearly 
 perpendicular. The way was rugged, and one of my camels be- 
 
 R r 2 ing 
 
 * This very fituation has fince been the lot of a company of Europeans, between 
 Suez and Cairo. The miferable end of thofe who perifhed in this horrid manner, 
 fhould redouble our fenfe of our providential efcape.
 
 r'3o5 1 
 
 ing fkittifh, or perhaps uneafily laden, fuddenly threw his burden 
 from his back, and difordered the whole body. My trunks pitched 
 from rock to rock, until they got to the bottom ; and I am in- 
 debted to good luck, that they were not broken to pieces. The 
 contents which fuch an accident would have publiflied to the rob-' 
 bers, might have awakened the fpirit of rapine which lay dor- 
 mant within them, and tended to difturb the prefent harmony 
 which fubfills between us. Ibrahim was fent down to replace' 
 the baggage, and found one of the robbers very kindly affifting 
 the driver in that office. We were near an hour leading our ca- 
 mels from one afcent to another, before we conquered the fum-' 
 mit J and for three hours rode over a plain, where neither fliruT> 
 nor bufh was to be feen. At ten o'clock we defcended into a val- 
 ley, where we halted to breakfaft. In this valley, we found plenty 
 of provender for our cattle : Rofemary bufhes, and other fhrubs 
 of uncommon fragrance, which, being natives of the defart, are 
 ftill, perhaps, without a name. Though thefe fcented plants are 
 the ufual food of the camel, it is remarkable, that his breath is 
 infufferably nauleous. But when he is puflied by hunger, he de- 
 vours thiftles and prickles indifcriminately, without the leaft da- 
 mage to his mouth, which feems proof to the fliarpeft thorns. The 
 lafl: ftage was four hours, or ten miles. -" ' ^. 
 
 At half pad eleven we mounted agairij^ ^d traverfed the 
 valley for an hour and upwards, when we climbed the moun- 
 tains once more, by as narrow and craggy paths as human feet 
 ever tro.-l. As we overlooked the precipices befide us, I difco- 
 vered feveral channels apparently worn with water, and am con- 
 vinced in my own mind, from thefe and other figns, that either 
 the Nile formerly branched into this defart, or rivers ran here 
 whofe fprings aie now choaked up. *' Dumb are their channels 
 and their fountains diy." The very neighborhood of the Nile 
 has undergone one of the unaccountable vicilfitudes of fublu- 
 - ' ■ ■ - ' nary
 
 [ 3^ ] 
 
 nary things : and the population of Upper Egypt has fhrunk 
 to the narrow compafs of the river, which waters her extenfive 
 domain ! 
 
 The band of robbers keep in our rear, and have hitherto 
 halted at an agreeable diftance from us. This condudl we ap- 
 prove of much, as their mixing with our fimple fervants might 
 be productive of difcoveries, not to our advantage. At half paft 
 four, we entered a valley, where we dined luxurioufly in the 
 fhade. We are much furprized to find that our bifcuit runs 
 fhort. This will foon oblige us to mefs with the Arabs, and tO; 
 eat of their flour cakes baked in the afhes. But while we 
 keep our healths, we lliall fcarcely complain of our food, what- 
 ever it may be. The Arab we hired at Ghinnah, is the perfoii 
 on whom we mnfl depend for the manufaffcuring thefe cakes. 
 He is a droll, who plays a thoufand antic tricks to divert the 
 company. But I am of opinion, that he has more of the knave 
 than fool about him. Ibrahim w^as always too indolent, to ad- 
 minifler to our wants of this kind. And as to Abdul Ruffar, he 
 has been of little or no fervice to us, fmce the leap he made 
 for his life at the houfe of Mahomet. He has been long reco- 
 vered of his bruifes, but they feem to have cooled his zeal for 
 our interefts. The laft flage was five hours, or twelve miles 
 and an half. At eight o'clock we moved on with the benefit 
 of a line moon, and kept winding thi-ough the valley until half 
 pail eleven, when we flopped at the foot of an high hill 
 jfor the remainder of the night. The laft ftage was three hours 
 and an half, or nine miles ; and we are by computation one 
 hundred and ten miles from Ghinnah. Our courfe to-day has 
 been to the eaftward of north. 
 
 T H U R S D A Y,
 
 I'HURS'D'A'Y, nth September. 
 
 We 4ecaniped in fuch hafte this morning, that we were dif- 
 appointed of our coffee, and marched away with empty ftomachs. 
 We led the camels up the hill before us, and for two hours 
 palled over fuch a variety of hills and dales, that we could not 
 pretend to mount our hearts. At eight o'clock, we began to 
 defcend into a deep valley, by one of the moft dangerous roads 
 we had yet beheld. On each fide of us were perpendicular 
 fteeps, fon^ hundred fathoms deep. But the traveller's atten- 
 tion feems to be purpofely diverted from the danger, by the 
 magnificent objects which farround him. Here he fees pointed 
 heaps of the brighteft cryftal, that dazzle the eye with their 
 glittering ■ luflre : while ever and anon above his head, tre- 
 mendous to behold 1 columns of the fineft granite, rent from the 
 mountain, feem ready to bury him beneath their tottering 
 weight. On every part is fuch a wild confufion of hanging 
 precipices, disjointed rocks, and hideous chafms, that we might 
 well cry out with the poet " Chaos is come again." Whoever 
 can tread thefe rude retreats, without being ftruck with the fub- 
 limeft ideas of that Almighty Providence, who prelides as well 
 amid the gloom and filence of the defart, as in the noife and 
 gaiety of the city, mufl be as dead to the emotions of fancy- 
 as to a fenfe of devotion. Yes, omnipotent Father ! to thee we 
 trull for our deliverance from the perils that furround us. It 
 was through this wildernefs thou didft lead thy chofen people. 
 It was here thou didft manifeft thy fignal protection, in fnatch- 
 ing them from the jaws of deftru6lion which opened upon every 
 fide. Though lefs deferving of thy regard, we defpair not of a 
 profperous iffue to our v/anderings : and in the hope of thy fup- 
 port, we look with indifference on what may befal us ' 
 
 7 At
 
 t 311 ] 
 
 At nine o'clock we afcended a gentle acclivity, where we 
 mounted our camels, and rode over level ground until half 
 pad ten, when we halted among feme flirubs, to feed our beafts 
 and to breakfaft. The laft ftage was four hours and an half, or 
 eleven miles. 
 
 -'At half pad eleven we refumed our journey, which ftill 
 lay upon a plain. As we went along, we ftarted two or three 
 deer, which were the firft living creatures we had met upon 
 thefe heights. At two o'clock we came fuddenly upon a dreadful 
 chafm in the road, which appears to have been the efFe6t of art 
 earthquake. It is about three hundred yards long, one hundred 
 yards wide, and as many deep ; and what is the ciiriofity, in 
 the middle of the gulph a fmgle column of flone raifes its head 
 to the furface of the earth. The rudenefs of the work, and the 
 aflonifliing length of the ftone, announce it to be a * liifus na- 
 tures,' though the robbers declared to us, that beneath the co- 
 lumn there lies a prodigious fum of money ; and added, with a 
 grave face, they have a tradition, that none but a Chriftian's hand 
 can remove the ftone to come at it. We could hardly keep our 
 countenance at this tale, and without attempting a labor, which 
 would have been worthy of the fabled Hercules, we rounded this' 
 gulph, which is called Somali j and leaving it behind us, v?t' 
 entered a valley where we found a very craggy road. We con- 
 tinued our courfe through this valley until half part five 
 o'clock, when we halted under the fhade of an hill to dine. The 
 laft ftage was fix hours, or fifteen miles ; and a very fatiguing' 
 one it proved, during the hotteft part of the day. The robbers 
 kept nearer to us than ufual, and encamped on the fame ground. 
 Here our Arabs diverted themfelves with {hooting at a mirrk," 
 at which they are very dextrous. It is neceflary for them, htivv- 
 ever, to reft their pieces, which leaves them infinitely beneath 
 our markfmen in fair ftiooting. The example of our people 
 
 animated
 
 [ 3^2 ] 
 
 animated thofe in the other quarter : and there was nothing 
 heard but the report of fire-arms, during our ftay here. The 
 robbers were much delighted with a mufketoon belonging to us, 
 whofe execution upon the rocks was more terrible, and whofe 
 report more loud, than they had any conception of. They re- 
 marked too with wonder, that a matchlock mifl'es fire more fre- 
 quently than a fufee, although the former has a match in lieu 
 of a flint. 
 
 At eight o'clock we mounted again, and refumed our courfe 
 through tlae valley by moon-light, until half paft ten, when 
 we flopped to take our repofe. The lafl: ftage was two hours 
 and an half, or fix miles; and by our reckoning, we are one 
 hundred and forty-two miles from Ghinnah. Our courfe to- 
 day has been N. by E. and N. by W. 
 
 FRIDAY, i2th September. 
 
 We did not begin our march before half paft fix o'clock 
 this morning, by which time we had broken our faft with a dilh 
 of coffee. We dire<5led our courfe to the weftward, to gain on 
 the river ; as this is the fourth day fince we filled our water- 
 fldns, which make but a light appeaiance at prefent. We foon 
 entered upon a very extenfive plain, fcattered over with a va- 
 riety of odoriferous flin;bs, and bounded on all fides by lofty 
 mountains, whofe tops were loft in the clouds. After the 
 heights we have paffed, it is no pleafing profpe6l to behold new- 
 difficulties to conquer. But alas ! fatigues feem daily to multi- 
 ply upon us. ** Hills peep o'er hills, and Alps on Alps arife." 
 — As we went along we perceived the frefli tracks of numbers of 
 deer, which we fuppofe had taken to the hills on our approach. 
 The nearer we go to the Nile, the lefs fterile is the face of the 
 country. The foil in many places is mixed with clay, and feems 
 lo capable
 
 [ 3^3 ] 
 
 c'afiable of cultivation. At half paft eight o'clock we halted in a fpa- 
 cious opening between the mountains, which leads due wed to 
 the river. Here the Arabs tell us we muft remain, while the ca- 
 mels fetch water from the Nile, which is about twenty miles 
 diftant; As the war ftill rages there, they do not think it pru- 
 dent for us to approach any nearer. The robbers have encamp- 
 ed by us, and difpatched their camels on the fame errand. This 
 delay will prolong our journey a day at leaft, and confequently 
 the time we are to fpend with thefe honeft fellows. They are, 
 however, on their good behavior with us -, and as long as they 
 keep their word with our conductor, we are bound to i'peak well 
 of tliem, whatever may be their general character and profeflion. 
 We fhould have fpent a difagreeable day here, had we not fixed up 
 fuch a tent as we contrived at our firft ftage from Ghinnah, to 
 fhelter us from the fun. But there was no ftanding within it, 
 nor any mode of entrance but upon our knees. This inconve- 
 nience, however, is not to be mentioned, among others which 
 we have long fuftained. Chairs find tables we have been utter 
 flrangers to for fome months ; and it is no longer awkward to 
 us to feed ourfelves with our fingers. 
 
 While we waited for the return of our camels, we were alarmed 
 about noon by the report of two cannon. It came from the river, 
 and we began to apprehend that there might be troubles in our 
 neighborhood. Remote as we were from the fcene of the difpute, 
 the fight of our camels might occafion an enquiry from either 
 party, which might end in thedifcovery of our retreat. Thefe re- 
 fleclions were not of a very confolatory nature ; nor did our fitu- 
 ation call for foreign evils, to render it lefs enviable. But we were 
 not otherwife difturbed, than in our imaginations. Everything 
 remained quiet during the day ; and though the Arabs, as well as 
 our fervants, repeatedly declared, that they heard the firing of 
 more cannon, we imputed it to fancy or fear, and attended very 
 
 S f - patiently
 
 [" 3^^ 1 
 patiently to the iiTue. We were indeed engaged in another mat- 
 ter, which at firfl: had a lerious countenance. We found that our 
 coffee and Tugar was expended, and that the camel-drivers were 
 in want of more ghee, not withftan ding the large ftock wliich we 
 laid in of thefe articles. Now it was that we became fenfible of 
 fome of the good effects of the company of the robbers. What 
 we fliould have fought for in vain in their abfence, their captain 
 has fupplied us with, at half the prices which fuch articles bear at 
 Ghinnah. Hadgee Uttalah has fettled with him for the amount, 
 which we are to repay at Cairo. In truth, the confcience of this 
 robber is no lefs wonderful than his manners. He is eafy of ac- 
 cefs, and yet carries a proper command over his party ; and by his 
 o\Yn example teaches them to be civil, and even obliging to us. 
 We would willingly make him a faitable acknowledgment for 
 this behavior, but do not think it fafe to produce money, or to 
 depart in the leaft from our profefiions of poverty. It w'as with 
 the greatell pleafure imaginable, that I could oblige him in a 
 trifling point: with a couple of razors, which he faw in my fer- 
 vant's hands, and exprelTed a defire for. 
 
 As the night advanced, our anxiety for the fate of our camels 
 encreafed. They did not return before eleven o'clock, and were 
 abfent upwards of fourteen hours. They went to an unfrequent- 
 ed inlet of the liver, but faw a countryman, who informed the 
 drivers, that Ifmaul Beg had repulfed the gallies. of Ibrahim Beg, 
 and difperfed his forces upon the banks of the Nile. We are pro- 
 bably indebted to the horrors of the defart, that we have not en- 
 countered any of the fugitives, who, to fliun famine here, have 
 chofen a route more formidable in point of human perfecutions. 
 This place, we underfland, is nearly oppofite to the town of Suadi, 
 on the Nile; and as our ftage to-day was but two hours, or five 
 miles, we are,^ by our calculation, 149 miles from Ghinnah. 
 
 S A T U R-
 
 I 315 ] ■ 
 
 yK. • ■ • A 
 
 ''■■' 'SA'T UR D AY, 13th September. 
 
 At half paft fix this morning we left our ground, and travefled 
 over a plain until nine o'clock, when we entered a broad valley/ 
 and at ten halted among fome buflies to breakfafl:. We now began 
 to be in the fame mefs with the Arabs. Our own bifcuit was out ; 
 but it was with no indifferent ftomachs that we partook of their un-' 
 leavened bread. This is made of flour to be fure, but flour in the 
 coarfeft fliate : and what with the making and baking, the reader 
 may conceive that the bread is of a tolerable blacknefs, before it 
 comes to our hands. We moiften this food with ghee, and crown 
 the repaft with a difh of coffee, and a draught of water. I declare, 
 for my own part, that I never enjoyed one, at any period of my 
 life, with a better relifli. So beneficial are exercife and fobriety 
 to the health! and fo fuccefsful is necefTity in overcoming the force 
 of habit I I may fpeak confidently on the former heads, in regard 
 to myfelf j as my conftitution is none of the flirongeff, and I have 
 been ever fuhjecl to head-achs, and nervous complaints. But 
 none of our company bear the fatigues of the journey better than 
 myfelf j or have been blefl: with a greater fhare of health during 
 our refidence in thefe parts. The humour in my eyes was but an 
 external diforder ; and, thanks to our conduflor, did not much 
 trouble me after the application he made to them. The lail ftage 
 was three hours and an half, or nine miles. 
 
 At eleven o'clock we mounted again, and purfued our route 
 through the valley, which is pretty thickly covered with fhrubs. 
 Nothing is fo difagreeable as to go for any length of way through 
 a place of this kind. The poor camels will fl:op at every bufli to 
 fatisfy their hunger ; and, did humanity admit of depriving them 
 of this fcanty fatisfa6lion, neither words nor blows could induce 
 them to mend their pace. At one o'clock we gained, by a gentle 
 
 S f 2 afcent.
 
 ^ afcent, upon a plain, flony and bare of verdure. We left the hill 
 in our rear, and toiled onwards over the barren flat in an hot fun 
 until four o'clock, when we entered a valley ftored with rofemary 
 apd other fcented bu flies. We winded through it until half pail 
 four, when we halted to refrefli ourfelves and cattle. It muft be 
 obfei-ved, that we found no fhelter from the fun at either of our 
 halting -places to-day, which has rendered it the moft irkfome one 
 during this journey. The lall ftage was five hours and an half, 
 or fourteen miles. 
 
 At eight o'clock we moved on with a fine moon. The night 
 was very fliarp and cold, though I faced it without putting on 
 any additional covering. The Arabs wrapped themfelves up in 
 their cloaks ; and, with the affiftance of their pipes, contrived to 
 baiBe the piercing wind, which is by no means agreeable to their 
 feelings. Each man is provided with a flint and piece of 
 fteel. To the fteel a bit of leather is affixed, which takes fire on 
 the firfl flroke, and is ready to light his matchlock or pipe. An. 
 unlucky accident had like to have befallen Mr. Hammond, from 
 the ufe of thefe flints. A fpark of fire fell unknowingly upon the 
 leather-bag which contained his ammunition ; and had he not by 
 chance perceived the fmoke ifTuing from it, in a few minutes it is 
 probable he would have felt the fevere effe6ls of the explofion. 
 This alarm occafioned us to change our pofition, and we kept to 
 the windward of the Arabs during the refl of the march. Our 
 road, after leaving the valley, lay over level ground. As it would 
 be next to an impoflibility to find the way over thefe flony flats, 
 where the heavy foot of a camel leaves no impreffion, the different 
 bands of robbers have heaped up fl:ones at unequal diftances, for 
 their direction through this defart. We have derived great affiftance 
 from the robbers in this refpe6l, who are our guides when the 
 marks either fail, or are unintelligible to us. If it be confidered, 
 that this road to Cairo is feldom or never trodden, it is no wonder 
 3 that
 
 [ 317 ] 
 
 that our Arabs are frequently at a lofs for the courfe. We are 
 but the third, and, perhaps, may be the lafl: company of travel- 
 lers, who have ventured to go by this route, fmce the difturbances 
 have arifen upon the Nile. Our little Turk at Ghinnah was par- 
 ticularly averfe to it ; and though both his perfon and merchandize 
 would in all probability have enjoyed the fame protection as our- 
 felves, we are well enough pleafed that he did not encounter the 
 trial. The truth of it is, the Turks are verv tyrannical maftej s, 
 and the Arabs feize every opportunity to repay their obligations 
 in kind. At twelve o'clock we halted to take our repofe in the 
 open plain ; and fenced ourfelves from the cold wind as well as 
 we could, with our baggage. The laft flage was four hours, or 
 ten miles; and, by our reckoning, we are i8o miles from Ghin- 
 nah. Our courfe to-day has been N. E. and during the latter 
 part due N. 
 
 SUNDAY, 14th September. 
 
 We decamped at half paft iix o'clock this morning, and pur- 
 fued our courfe over a level country. The river, we are told, 
 runs within ten or twelve miks of us ; but we dare not approach 
 it, whatever attra6lions it may poiTefs. On the road we pafTed 
 the ikeleton of a camel, which now and then happens in the de- 
 fart. Thefe are poor creatures that have perifhed with fatigue ; 
 for thofe which are killed for the fuflenance of the Arabs, are car- 
 ried away, bones and all together. Of the hides are made the 
 foles of the flippers which are worn in Egypt, without any drefs- 
 ing, but what the fini can givethem. The circumftances of this 
 animal's death, when his flrength fails him on the road, have 
 fomething in them affecting to humanity. Such are his patience 
 and perfeverance, that he purfues his journey without flagging, as 
 long as he has power to fupport its weight] and fuch are his 
 
 fortitude
 
 [ 3i8 ] 
 
 fortitude and fpirit, that he will never give out, until nature finks 
 beneath the complicated ills which prefs upon him. Then, and 
 then only, will he refign his burden and his body to the ground. 
 Nor ftripes, nor carelTes, nor food, nor reft, will make Him rife 
 again! His vigor is exhauJled, and life ebbs out apace! — This, 
 the Arabs are very fenfible of, and kindly plunge a fword into the 
 breaft of the dying beaft, to fliorten his pangs. Even the Arab 
 feels remorfe when he commits this deed : his hardened heart is 
 moved at the lofs of a faithful fervant ! — Peace then to thy re- 
 mains, unhappy fon of want and woe ! May no rude wind dif- 
 turb thy bones, no impious hand remove them from the reach of 
 pafTing eyes ! At fight of them the traveller fhall drop a pitying 
 tear. Thy force ! thy gentlenefs ! thy giant form ! thy toiling 
 days ! thy haplefs end ! fliall rufh upon his mind, and loudly 
 claim this tranfient tribute ! So may he hope to pafs fecure the 
 horrors of the wafte — fo may the beaft which he beilrides, efcape 
 thy fate 1 
 
 At ten o'clock we halted in the fun to breakfaft, among fome 
 thiftles, which is all that the plain affords our poor camels. 
 The foil here is gravel, intermixed with chalk and ftone. The lafl: 
 ftage was three hours and an half, or nine miles. At eleven we 
 refumed our march, over one of the moft extenfive plains in the 
 univerfe. Not a hill, not a tree appears j and the eye, as on the 
 ocean, is only bounded by the horizon. The iun here was veiy 
 powerful; and the wind blowing over the chalky foil, proved 
 more troublefome and difagreeable, than we have found it on the 
 journey. We travelled the whole day without refting, though 
 we were obliged to pull in our camels once or twice among fome 
 bufiies, to refrefli them with a mouthful of food. At five o'clock 
 we approached a range of high mountains, which run weftwaid 
 to the Nile. We flopped within a league of them, until the cap- 
 tain of the robbers and fome of the Arabs puflied on to furvey the 
 
 pafs.
 
 [ 319 ] 
 
 pafs, which is fometimes frequented by their fraternity, VVe. 
 moved flowly after them, and at feven o'clock overtook them under 
 the hills at the entrance of the valley, and were happy to find 
 there was no appearance of danger. We flieltered ourfelves be- 
 hind a thick fpreading bufh to fleep, as the north wind blew pe- 
 culiarly cold. Here my fervant difcovered a fnake under his bed, 
 which the Arabs tell us is poifonous. But it had no tokens of 
 being lb, if I may be allowed to judge from the variety of fnakes 
 which I have feen in India. This laborious ftage took us up eight 
 hours and an half, or twenty- two miles, fo that we are by our reck- 
 oning 2 1 2 miles from Ghinnah. Our courfe to-day has been to the 
 weft ward of N. 
 
 M O N D X'"^, 15th September. 
 
 We were in motion by fix o'clock this morning, and advanced 
 towards the hills, to which we judged we were fo near by the light 
 of the moon. But it was a full hour before we entered the val- 
 ley that divides them. Here we found plenty of provender for 
 our camels, who get but a meafure of beans per diem each, befides 
 the food which they pick up in the way. A llender allowance in- 
 deed, for fo large an animal ! On all fides we obierved the frefli 
 flot of deer, and of another creature, which I take to be an elk 
 from the fize of the hoof, but which the Arabs call a mountain 
 fheep. Thefe mountains are compofed of alabafter, porphyry, 
 and granite ; large fragments of which are fcattered about the 
 road, either by the force of a whirlwind, or their fall from an 
 immenfe height. It was doubtlefs from this quarter, that the 
 antient kings of Egypt furniflied themfelves with the materials of 
 thofe fplendid edifices, whofe remains are yet vifible in the princi- 
 pal cities of this kingdom. Thofe lofty columns which have 
 aftoniflied mankind at Alexandria and elfewhere, and which have 
 10 bcea
 
 ■[ 320 ] 
 
 l^reti frarirp*orted to Italy at a prodigious expence, were probably 
 cut from thcfe quarries ; as the vicinity of the Nile afforded fuch 
 an eligible conveyance to the fea. This is, in fa6V, but a conjec- 
 ture J but fuch as a traveller rrriy be allowed to indulge himfelf in, 
 were it only to redlify the miftakes of fome very ingenious wri- 
 ters, who have fuppofed all tliis profufion of marble to have been 
 brought from above the catara6ls of the Nile, and thence deduce 
 the infignificancy of thofe celebrated falls *. But to me the pre- 
 mifes appear fo ill-founded, that I cannot admit of the inference; 
 though it muft be acknowledged, that accident alone could have 
 led a ftranger to the difcovery of a qnarry, which is unknown or 
 nnattended to, by tlie natives of the country. We winded through 
 this valley 'till ten o'clock, when we halted among fome thorn- 
 trees to drink coffee. This ftage was four hours, or ten miles. moV+ 
 At eleven o'clock we refumed our courfe through the valley, 
 which is well flocked with tJiorn trees that are large enough to 
 throw a fliade. Our noftrils were faluted with a fine odour, as 
 \vfe pafTed by the fnowy bloffoms that whiten the vale. On the 
 road we flarted an hare, and faw many earths, which this poor 
 creature burrows in to defend her from the heat. The wind was fo 
 bleak, that the fun had little or no effeil until towards noon, when 
 the weather turned very fultry. We journeyed the whole day in this 
 valley, which in fome places extends itfelf near a mile in breadth. 
 In the afternoon we were alarmed with the frefh tracks of a camel's 
 feet, which make a flrong imprefTion in a foft foil. The Arabs do 
 not take them to be more-than a day old, and pronounce a party 
 of freebooters to be at hand. No travellers left Ghinnah later 
 than a week before us ; and what bufmefs can bring any but frecr- 
 booters into this wafle, isincomprehenfible tous. Danger feemed 
 
 to be near us, and fcoiits were fent forward to advertife us of it. 
 
 -.i c> :: --^i..-:: ; . • ^. •., . . , ,_ , ,. ,^^ 
 
 23fftud sfBoi ; 9dJ tnifidd L .xi -^cudhil 
 
 ' * Bv the tefllmonies of Captain Notden and Dr. Pococke, thefe falls are really 
 infignificant ; but neither of them penetrated to the fecond or third cataraft.
 
 [ 321 ] 
 
 The robbers were employed in this office, and by the facility 
 with which they traced the fufpicious feet, it appeared how difficult 
 it would be to avoid fuch an expert pack. No hound could run 
 ^ruer upon a fcent; nor do I fuppofe, any hound would be 
 flauncher to the chace. We tiavelled on, however, without any in- 
 terruption, and at fix o'clock halted to dine. We were in need of 
 refrelliment, as the laft ftage was feven hours, or feventeen miles 
 and an half. But our meat is quite expended, and we were obliged 
 to put up with flour, which alfo begins to run fhort, for want, we 
 fear, of oeconomy being obferved among our fervants. By Hadgee 
 Uttalah's firft account, we were to have reached Cairo lafl: night ; 
 and now he talks of two or three days more ! This miflake muft . 
 have arifen, not more from the delays we have met with, than 
 from his ignorance of the country. It behoves us, however, 
 to be careful of the little provifion which remains. 
 
 At eight o'clock we refumed our march by the light of the 
 moon, and ftill found ourfelves in the valley. At half paft 
 ten we halted to take our repofe. The laft ftage was two 
 hours and an half, or fix miles, and by our reckoning we are 
 246 miles from Ghinnah. Our courfe to-day has been direct- 
 ed by the windings of the valley, generally to the eaftward 
 of N. 
 
 TUESDAY, i6th September. 
 
 We decamped at fix o'clock this morning, and prefently quit^ 
 ting the valley, which is above thirty miles long, we entered upon , 
 a plain, over which we travelled for fome time. At nine o'clock, 
 we came fuddenly upon a well, which is fituated among fonie 
 bi'oken ground. The fight of a fpring of water was inexprefiibly 
 agreeable to our eyes, which had fo long been ftrangers to Co re- 
 frelhing an objetSV. We halted behind the Ihade of fome bufhes 
 
 T t a^
 
 [ 322 ] 
 
 ^ a little diftance ftom it, while we l>reakfafted, and repleniftied 
 our fkins with that precious article. Xl^e laft ftage was three hours^ 
 or feven miles and an half. 
 
 • "^he morning was very cool and pleafant, and we beheld an 
 hazy Iky, for the firft time, I belie\re, Cince we have been in Egypt. 
 The heavens are ufually clear and ferene in this upper province, 
 where I cannot learn the plague has overextended, during the pe- 
 riods of its greatefl: rage in Lower Egypt ; to which land we are 
 now approaching. Hadgee Uttalah tells us, that he will certainly 
 put us into a boat on Thurfday morning. We cannot be any confi- 
 derable diftanee from the latitude of Cairo, and have therefore the 
 greater dependence on this promife. While we were at breakfaft 
 we received a vifit from the captain of the robbei^s, who exprefled 
 a defire to fee a double-barrelled piece, which he heard was in my 
 poffeflion. After the honorable treatment which we had received 
 from him, J could not do lefs than produce it. I went further, to. 
 pleafe him, and difcharged it, to fhew him the nature of its con- 
 ftruftion. He was much taken with the novelty of the invention; 
 and after furveying it with particular marks of iatisfaflion and 
 aftoniftiment, he returned it to my hands. I mention this circum- 
 llance, to evince the exceffive forbearance of this man j whofe pro- 
 feflion is thieving, and to whom a fire-arm of this kind muft -have 
 been a very defirable acquifition. He had not left us many mi4t 
 nutes, when onp of his followers brought us a prefent of a bag of 
 flour, with his mafter's compliments. He had learnt from our 
 condu£lor, that we were in want of it ; and tliough we did not 
 chufe to be under an obligation to him of this nature, we could: 
 ,not prevail on him to accept of any pecuniary confideration for 
 it. All we could do, was to divide fome rice we had left, and fend 
 the half to the captain -, which we had the pleafure to underfland. 
 proved a new and acceptable food to him. This is furprizing^; 
 coniidering the neighborhood of the Delta, which produces fuch- 
 '• ' quantitiei.
 
 E Pi J 
 
 quantities- of rice.' Butwemoift remembefr, that' fhis r(>liber K-aft 
 detached himfelf from the {hciety of cities ; afrid is tibt hkeft t6i 
 meet with any but the common grain, in his progrefs through 
 the wafte. - r, - - 
 
 We loft the greateft part of the day at thisTptifi^. '~ "TOougli 
 our fkins were prefently filled, the camels were yet to drink, and 
 we had not bargained for the time which this neGeffary bufi- 
 nefe would take up. As the camels could not go to the 'A^ell', 
 an hole was funk in the earth below the furface of the Ipring, 
 over which a fkin was fpread', to retain the water which flowed 
 into it. At this but two camels could drink at a time ; and" it 
 was fix hours before our camels, which amounted t6 forty- 
 eight in all, were watered. Each camel, therefore, by thi^ cal^ 
 culation, takes a quarter of an hour to quench his enormous 
 thirft ; and to water a common caravan of 400 camels at fuch 
 a place as this, would require two days and two nights. A 
 moft unforefeen and mconceivable delay to an uninformed tra-i ' 
 veller ! 
 
 At three o'clock we refumed our journey, and foon entered a 
 dale, the moft fertile we had yet beheld. Here grafs, and a kind 
 of wild grain, were intermixed with the fragrant fhrUbs, alft'd ; 
 afforded a very agreeable change to our cattle, who devoured 
 the frefh blade with unufual greedinefs. The banks on each ' 
 fide of us, were green and floping, and the foil black and foft. 
 From thefe circumftances, and the courfe of the dale, which 
 winds N. W. towards the Nile, I take it to have been for- 
 merly a branch of that river, but which has been long choaked ' 
 up, except in uncommon inundations. As we wfent along, w6 
 ftarted feveral hares, and fprang a brace or two of quail ; but 
 we are not provided with ihot to bring them down. At three 
 quarters paft feven we halted under the bank of thfe dale, to takei ■ 
 OUT- repofe. The laft^ ftage was four hour^ and three quarters, ' 
 
 /^i'.- T 1 2 or
 
 C iH J 
 
 or twelve mites ; fo that by our reckoning we are 266 miles 
 from Ghinnah. Our courfe to-day was N. by W. .and 
 
 N. W. ■ ■ ■- }.i 
 
 '""" WEDNESDAY, 17th Septertber. 
 
 We were mounted before five o'clock this morning, and mif- 
 fing one of our camels, which had ftrayed> we were obliged tO' 
 divide his burden among the reft, and to leave a man behind us to 
 look for him. We foon quitted the dale, and afcended the high 
 ground by the fide of a ntountain, that overlooks it in this part; 
 The path was narrow and perpendicular, and much refembled 
 a ladder. To make it worfe, w^e preceded the robbers ; and an 
 ignorant guide among our ow^n people led us aftray. Here we 
 found ourfelves in a pretty fituation ! We had kept the lower 
 road on the fide of the hill, inftead of that towards the fummit; 
 until we could proceed no further. We were now obliged to 
 gain the heights, in order to recover the road ; in performing 
 which, we drove our poor camels up fuch fteeps, as we had the 
 greateft difficulty to climb after them. We were under the 
 neceflity of leaving them to themfelves ; as the danger of lead- 
 ing them through places, where the leaft falfe ftsp would have 
 precipitated both man and beaft to the unfathomable abyfs 
 below, was too critical to hazard. We hit at length upon the 
 proper path, and were glad to find ourfelves in the rear- of our 
 unerring guides, the robbers, after having won every foot of the 
 ground with real peril and fatigue. In tha valley beneath Us; 
 we paflTed by a fountain of fine water. It gufhed from a rock, 
 and threw itfelf with fome violence into a bafon, which it' had 
 hollowed for itfelf below. We had no oecafion for a frefrl 
 fupply ; but could not help lingering a few minutes to admire 
 a fight, fo pretty in itfelf, and fo bewitching to our eyes, which 
 
 had
 
 [ 325 1; 
 
 ftad of late been Grangers to bubbling founts and limpid ftreams. 
 'At fevien o'clock we reached the fummit of the mountain, and 
 travelled until half paft ten, over a continued region of hills and 
 dales. This aftonifliing jumble ! this continued afcent ! re- 
 calls to the trayeller's mind the fabled battle of the giants, who, 
 in warring with the gods, heaped hills on hills to fcale the ca- 
 nopy of heaven. They iare rude, craggy, and barren, and the 
 tracks over them hardly paflable.^ In the bottoms the foR is 
 generally clay, and fo moift, as to denote our vicinity to the 
 Nile, which at this feafon floods the country around. At fome 
 openings to our left we once more beheld this noble river — be- 
 held him after a long abfence, fweeping his majeftic courfe be- 
 tween the towering mountains. We plainly difcerned the tops' 
 of thofe to the weftward of his ftream ; and it feemed as if he 
 had here fcooped a channel for his rapid waters out of the 
 folid rock. We gradually regained the low lands, and at eleven- 
 o'clock halted among fome flirabs, to refrefli ourfelves and cattle. 
 Here our Arab overtook us with tiie miffing camel. The cir- 
 cumftance of his wandering is very uncommon. The camel is 
 the moil ftaid of all creatures, and remains by the baggage dur- 
 ing the night without being picketed. The laft ftage was fix 
 hours, or fifteen miles. ji r; ..noai T.n; 
 
 At half paft eleven we refumed our march, and fBon came to 
 the foot of a prodigious hill, which we unexpe6tedly found we^ 
 were to afcend. It was perpendicular, like the one which we 
 had pafled fome hours before j but what rendered the accefs more 
 difficult, the path which we were to tread, was nearly right up- 
 and down. The captain of the robbers, feeing theobftacles we 
 had to overcome, wifely fent all his camels round the mountain, 
 where he knew there was a defile, and only accompanied us with- 
 the beaft he rode. We luckily met with no accident in climbing 
 ilhift height, which our people tell, us, is the laft we ihall cn*- 
 N^ ^ counter,.
 
 [ 3'26 ] 
 
 ^counter. We' jotirneyed over the top until one o'clock, whew 
 ■we defcended into a valley by a paffage eafy enough. Here wc 
 were furprifed with the fight af a man and a camel, who were 
 half-concealed by a fpreading bufli, Oiu- fervants were firft, and 
 gave the alaira ; upon which the captain of the robbers puflied 
 on his camel at its utmoft fpeed, regardlefs of danger, and me- 
 ditating, perhaps, the feizure of feme booty. Our Arabs follow- 
 ed him, and prefently furrounded the man. My companion* 
 and myfelf hafted after. Our fituation was difficult on fuch an 
 occafion ; but we had already determined on the part we were to 
 take, fhould the diftrefs of a fellow-creature claim our protec- 
 tion. We were bound by the ties of honor, to obfeive a ftri6t neu- 
 trality towards the robbers, except when they infringed the rights 
 iof human nature in our prefence. Happily for us all, the man 
 in queiVion was no fubjefl for their depredations. We foon 
 came up to him, and found he was a courier, who left Cairo but 
 yefterday, and is proceeding with letters to fome town on the 
 river. He is known to the robber, or it feems that he would not 
 have ventured through the defart. He tells us that all is quiet 
 again at Cairo. This news, and the certain vicinity of the city, 
 Jiave put us all into good fpirits. The arduous enterprife is nearly . 
 accompliflied, and the palm of fuccefs is at hand ! ■ ■'f^'^ oJ \'iib 
 We left the principal Arabs to entertain the ftranger with'^' 
 coffee, and toiled through the valley until half paft five o'clock, 
 when we halted to dine. We were now joined by thofe Arabs, 
 and prefently after by the reft of the robbers, who had made an 
 aftonifliing march to overtake us. This flage was fix hours, or- - 
 fifteen miles. After a light refrelhment of bread, we moved on 
 at feven with the moon, which was now at full, and afforded us 
 .a clear light to march over an hilly region until twelve o'clock, 
 when we fpread our beds under a bank, to fnatch a /hort repofe. 
 The Arabs tell us we muft be ffirring before day-break, which/ 'J 
 
 added
 
 [ 32? ] 
 
 added to our march to-day, pronounces them to be anxious to 
 finifli our toilfome journey. This place is but a fliort diflance 
 from the river. The laft ftage was five hours, or twelve miles, 
 and by our reckoning, we are now 308 miles from Ghinnah.. 
 Our courfe to-day has been N. W. and W. 
 
 THURSDAY, i8th September. - 
 
 We were roufed before four o'clock this morning, that v^t 
 might get early to the town where we are to take boat. With- 
 out our ufual allowance of coffee, we marched ofFdireflly for the 
 river, to water our camels. The camel is as ready to drink often 
 as any other animal, not with (landing the large quantity of liquid 
 which his llomach can contain. He is the only animal, 
 who ruminates — if I may fo term it— his drink as he journeys 
 along; and is no more opprefled by it, than is the ox with his 
 cud, which he chews at his ieifure. We did not lofe much time 
 at the river, which we were overjoyed to review. Hence Vve di- 
 r€<5led our march to the northward, along the banks of the moft 
 delightful river in the world. By the late floods it is, in fome 
 parts, double its original breadth, and ruflies with a noify rapi- 
 dity to the main. The defart here flretches itfelf to the very 
 banks, which appear infinitely more verdant by the comparifon. 
 In our way we pafTed by a village to our left, called Vel Hadie,: 
 and at feven o'clock halted at the town of Ifcour, where we ex- 
 pe6ted to find a boat. But our expe£lations were vain; although 
 Hadgee Uttalah went himfclf to the houfe of the principal of-' 
 ficer, to obtain an order for one. While we remained here, I 
 afcended an eminence without the town, and was prefented with 
 the moft romantic profpeft that imagination can portray.. The 
 Nile had now furrounded a long flip of land, which appeared to 
 be in the midft of his ftreamj and difpfayed a. bed of diverfified 
 9 green.
 
 I 3^8 ] 
 
 green. A large wood towered its head on this ifland, and alto- 
 gether formed a ftriking contraft to the rufiet mountains, which 
 overlook his weftern fliores. About a mile from this charming 
 retreat, buried in tlie defart from common obfervation, the rob- 
 bers have their refidence. They attended us thus far, and then 
 returned to their tents, which they had pointed out to us on the 
 road, as the dwellings of their families. Their departure was 
 fecret, or as we call it, was a French leave. Hadgee Uttalah 
 Infinuates, that their captain took this ftep, in order to fliew his 
 difintereftednefs, and to fave us the pain of being obliged to dif- 
 mifs him, without a prcfent. If this infinuation be Jull — and we 
 have no reafon to doubt it — there was a raodefty in this procedure, 
 which would have done credit to a man of the moft liberal educa- 
 tion. Indeed, the whole behavior of thele robbers has been fo 
 extraordinary, and the adventure itfelf is of fo novel a caft, tliat 
 the reader would fcarcely excufe me for parting with them, with- 
 out making fome obfervations on the fubjecl. 
 
 Of all the different tribes of Arabians which we have met 
 with, thefe tenants of the defart alone, have afforded us un- 
 queftionable proofs of generofity and honor. We had fought 
 for thefe virtues in the courts of princes, and found them in the 
 uncultivated waffe. Here no prejudices are harbored, no vain 
 diftini^lions of religion give rife to defpicable perfecutions. If 
 the fword be drawn, .it is never wanton in its execution, and ftill 
 refpedls the laws of fiiendihip and faith. Like the favage in- 
 mates of the wild, thefe robbers rove through habit, arid are 
 only rapacious when urged by flrong necefiity. Man is their 
 foe, more than they are the foe of man. But to thefe robbers 
 alone this refle6lion will, perhaps, hold. Baniflied without caufe 
 from fociety, by the remiffnefs of the laws, and influenced by 
 education to think lightly of their trefpaffes, whyfhould we 
 raaivel to hear of people in this profeflion, "whofe morals and 
 
 5 manners
 
 [ 329 ] 
 
 manners would not difgrace a city ? This position is at leaH: evi- 
 dent. — By the ftrifl connexion between them, and the frequent 
 trial to which their fidelity is put, they have formed a charafler 
 among themfelves, which is unknown to the reft of their coun- 
 trymen. A charafter, which has excited this involuntary tri- 
 bute of praife from a ftranger; and which is, indeed, wort'ny of a 
 better fate ! 
 
 The laft ftage was three hours, or feven miles. At ten o'clock 
 we left Ifcour, and profecuted our journey along the banks of 
 the Nile. We met with no villages for fome miles. At one 
 o'clock we faw the pyramids very diftin<5lly, lying to the weft- 
 ward of the river. Thefe we had obferved from Ifcour, though 
 forty miles diftant from them ; but from their magnitude, con- 
 ceived them to have been hills of ftone. Wc now were afcer- 
 tained of our approach to Cairo ; and on my aiking our con- 
 duftor the ufe of thofe ftruflures, he told us fo many fables of 
 their origin and riches, as afforded us ample entertainment 
 on the road. Not that the dreams of fuperftition withdrew our 
 attention, from the reality of the vifion which delighted our eyes. 
 We were ftruck with awe, in contemplating thefe amazing mo- 
 numents of antiquity. Every thing confpired to touch the tra- 
 veller's mind with the fublimeft ideas. The rude grandeur of 
 iJie ftupendous mountains behind the pyramids i the aftonifhing 
 height of the pyramids themfelves, which appear to rival the 
 works of nature ; the breadth and rapidity of the river which 
 runs beneath them, fo renowned in fong, and fo fertile of un- 
 common productions, united to raife a pi6lure worthy of a 
 Brooke's * pencil to defcribe. Nor did I confider an herd of c'a- 
 mels, that were browfing on our fide of the river, as a finall 
 addition to the magnificence of the profpe6l, which was com- 
 pofed of the moft gigantic obie6ts in nature ! In this. raarcJi 
 
 '"* An eminent' pointer of Ireland, -whofe talents in his profeflion proniifc to illu- 
 .'?nifl« the riling glory of his country. 
 
 U u two
 
 E 33° ] 
 
 two of our camels were fo far jaded, as to reduce us to 
 diftribute what little burdens remained to them among the reft, 
 and to leave them at a village on the road. It was now, that 
 we acknowledged the prudence of bringing the additional camels. 
 We no longer afcribed the meafure to any felfifli views j and 
 wholly acquitted the Arabs of a defign to deceive us ; as the dif- 
 ficulties in this mountainous journey were fufficient to break the 
 heart of a camel itfelf. At five in the evening, we arrived at 
 Tinnah, a town almoft oppofite the pyramids, where we pre- 
 fently procured a boat to carry us to Cairo, which is but twelve 
 miles diftant. The laft ftage was (even hours, or eighteen miles ;. 
 fo that our journey over the defart, from Ghinnah to this place, 
 has been, by our reckoning, 333 miles. 
 
 Tinnah is a faiall but pleafant town-, and ftands upon the re- 
 puted fite of antient Babylon, There are no veftiges, however, of 
 that fplendid city ; nor any ruins here fave thofe of modern edi- 
 fices. The houfes are prettily fliaded with trees, and the envi^ 
 rohs laid out in fields of grain. It is eafy to account for the exr- 
 tinclion of antient ruins in a peopled place; but how are we to 
 explain this extinction in a defart, except we recur to the hurri- 
 canes of fand in which they may be buried, or rather doubt their 
 exiftence at once ? Wc met with many fpots in the. defart, fit 
 enough for cultivation ; but not a ruin of any kind, to denote 
 the habitations of men. It is probable, therefore, tliat the geo- 
 graphers of old wrote without adequate information on the fub- 
 jedl ; and have given cities and tribes to a wafte, which has been 
 defolate fince the creation of the world*. 
 
 While we fupped upon our remaining rice, we were fur- 
 rounded with crouds of people, who beheld us with curiofity, 
 and learnt our adventures from the Arabs with furprize. At 
 
 nine 
 
 '') Juodji bvn , 
 * They have even exceeded thofe whom Swift ridicules — 
 
 " Who o'er unhabitable downs. 
 
 Place elephants for want of towns."
 
 ft ^331 ] 
 
 iiinfe'o'dbcK we jbyfully eimbarked for Cairo. Befides ouifelvcs 
 -and our domeftics, Hadgee' Uttalah and the camel-owners ac- 
 companied us in the boat. By them we promifed to gratify the 
 drivers, who were forry enough to leave us. The moon was juft 
 rifen, and without fail or oar, we fell down brilkly with the cut"^ 
 rent. Every thing wore a placid afpcft, and feemed ominous of 
 the ftate of the capital. We pafled by many villages, which ap- 
 peared very picfurefque by the pale light of the moon, and at 
 midnight anchored on the weftern bank oppofite Cairo, to take a 
 fhort repofe. 
 
 T 
 
 FRIDAY, 19th September. ^ 
 
 About two this morning we weighed, and ftood into the khalis 
 or channel, which runs from the river into the city. This chan- 
 nel is of aeon fider able breadth, and was lined on each fide with 
 trading ved'els and pleafure-boats ; which difplaycd convincing 
 tokens of the commerce and wealth of the capital of Egypt. The 
 •fl-rength of the current is here encreafed, and the boatmen exerted 
 no little Ikill in fleering through the grove of mafts, which rofe like 
 a wood around us. The Ihores on either hand of us, were adorned 
 with gardens and fummer-houfes ; the de7/s which fell thickly 
 upon our heads, v/ere impregnated v^/ith the fragrance of the.pail> 
 ing gale, which " whifpered whence it Hole the balmy fjioili;" 
 Our minds were now divefted of the perturbation which' -^liad So 
 long poifeffsd them, and were fitted to admit the. charmisvg fcei>c. 
 It feemed to be the efFe6l of fuch enchantment, as Arniida i^ i'aid, to 
 have exhibited to regain the affections of her lover. Erewhile we 
 wandered, like Rinaldo, through gloomy vales and dreary w^fies : 
 And now, are fuddenly tranfported to the elyfium he found — to 
 {lately palaces and vernal lands. We went under the flern of a 
 Turkifh frigate, which was galley-built and carried about tvyenty 
 
 U u 2 bra[s
 
 [ 332 ] 
 
 brafs guns. She was probably ftationed here, to proteil the chan- 
 Jiel during the late troubles ; but from the bad look-out which 
 the Turkifli lailors keep, it would be no difficult matter for an 
 enemy to have furprized hei" in the night. 
 
 At three o'clock we arrived at Old Cairo, and after dreffing 
 ourfclves in our bell Turkifli cloaths, we landed our baggage on 
 the wharf, and difcharsed our boat. We were to remain here until 
 day-break, and my companions and I diverted ourfelves in exa- 
 mining the place. In ftraying about, I came to a garden fur- 
 rounded by a lofty wall. On one fide of it there v^'as a latticed 
 window, which appeared to give light to a bower, as the lattices 
 were entwined with a fpreading vine, whofe grapes hung in cluf- 
 ters without. As I was admiring the fruit by the doubtful light 
 of the moon, the found of a guittar fuddenly flruck my ears.^jltii 
 iffued from the window, and was at times accompanied by a female 
 voice. I was too far removed from the performer, to reap the ex- 
 cellence of her fkill ; but the novelty of the adventure, and the 
 plaintivenefs of the tune, kept me fixed, as it were, to the fpot. 
 The window was infinitely too high to be fcaled without a ladder, 
 or my curiofity to behold a damfel, whom my imagination had 
 pictured out in all the graces of beauty and youth, might have 
 led me into a fcrape. 1 was now called away by the Arabs to der- 
 part. They prelfed us much to fend for afies, a fland of which , 
 was in the neighborhood, as we fliould find ourfelves much tired 
 by the walk to the Englifli factory. Our pride \/as ftartled at this 
 propofition ; and v/e perfiiled in our refolution to go on foot, t® 
 the great aftonifhment of the Arabs, who made no allowance for 
 our ignorance of the cuftoms here. We fet out accordingly at 
 dawn of day, and left all our fervants but Ibrahim, to ftay by the 
 baggage, until we fent camels for it. We found tlie road none of 
 the bell, and after going for near a mile, along a dead wall that 
 ikirts the channel we had come up, we entered the new city at a 
 
 little
 
 [ 333 ] 
 
 little paft fix o'clock. The ftreets began now to be filled with 
 people, and the fliops difplayed their various commodities for fale. 
 The favor of the hot bread had fuch an effe6i: upon our noftrils, 
 that fhame alone deterred us from Hopping in the ftreet, to break 
 our fafts with fuch a new and delicious morfel. In fpite of our dif- 
 guife, we were immediately known to be foreigners ; and the croud 
 repeatedly exprefied tokens of furprize, which our Arabs told us, 
 arofe from feeing us on foot. To obviate this impertinence, we 
 enquired if we could not proceed by water. A canal was near 
 us, and the Arabs called to the rowers of a gay-looking barge, 
 which took us on board. We were now fheltered from the fun, 
 which was waxing warm, and were llioved along at an eafy rate, 
 between the rows of lofty buildings that face the canal. Behind 
 the lattices on either fide we difcovered women, in the Greek and 
 Turkifli habits ; and one in particular, of uncommon beauty, 
 who came to the window to tafte of the morning air. Before fe- 
 ven o'clock we landed in a line with a quarter, called the Fils 
 Mcojky, where the feveral European faftories are fituated, and in^'. 
 few minutes reachedMr. Baldwin's houfe, of whom fuch frequent 
 mention has been made in this work. Though a perfeft llranger to 
 our perfons, we were received with great cordiality by this gentle- 
 man. Notwithftanding the many letters which we had addreffed 
 to him, our llory was only communicated to him yefterday, and 
 that by the Indian Fakter, who delivered our letter fafely, after a 
 thoufand difficulties. He was forty-five days on his paflage ; had 
 been taken prifoner repeatedly, by each of the contending parties';' 
 and efcaped detention, on account of his poverty and vocation. 
 We were glad to find this faithful fellow had received his pr(!)- 
 niifed reward, and wifhed to repeat our thanks to him. 
 
 Mr. Baldwin now congratulated us on our arrival, which he 
 utterly defpaired of, as foon as he learnt our condition. He was fo 
 confiderate as to apply lail night to the bey of Cairo, for a letter tb 
 
 9 the 
 
 - y
 
 [ 134 ] 
 
 the Shaik Ul Arab for our releafe j and to order one of his fer- 
 vants to get ready to carry the letter. He had taken thefeprehmi- 
 nary fteps ; but owned that he was doubtful of then* fuccefs, when 
 he confidered our remote fituation, and the troubles which agi- 
 tated the country. He was equally charmed with ourfelves, with 
 the behavior of Ifman Abu Ally ; and propofes to acknowledge 
 it, in the name of the king and the people of Great Britain. This 
 he fignified to Hadgee Uttalah and his companions in the Ara- 
 bian laiiguage, which he fpeaks very fluently ; and defued them . 
 to call for our letters and prefents, when they had finiflied their 
 bufmefs in this city. 
 
 Now we bade adieu to all anxiety and care. Our troubles ap- 
 peared to be at an end, and we were only ftudious to confole our- 
 felves for the lofs of fociety, which we had fo long endured. 
 Peace was reftored to Cairo j and the operations of war removed 
 to the parts we had come fromj whither Ibrahim Beg and the 
 fugitive Beys were fled. To recover oiufelves from the fatigues 
 of our journey, to infpedl the curiofities of this city, and to pre- 
 pare for our progrefs to Alexandria, are the points to which our 
 attention is turned. We obtained from the public papers, the 
 moft fatisfaclory accounts of our concerns in England ; and no- 
 thing occurred to damp the happinefs of this day, which I may 
 venture to fay, was the fmcereft we had ever experienced. We 
 difpatched camels for our baggage, and in the evening accompa- 
 nied Mr. Baldwin to a French merchant's houfe; where we 
 found a great deal of company aflembled to play at cards. 
 Among them was a very agreeable girl, of Greek extra6lion by 
 the mother's fide. Her father is a Frenchman, and now at 
 Marfeilles j which has enabled the young lady to obtain a per- 
 ftfl knowledge of the i rcnch tongue, and to render h-erfelf 
 very entertaining to travellers who pafs this way. Though her 
 drefs is confonant to the Turkifli mode, it by no means dif- 
 
 ligures
 
 [ 335 ] 
 
 figures her perfon ; but has rather fomething pleafmg in its no- 
 velty, to the eyes of an European. One of my companions ap- 
 pears to be but too fenfible of the charms of the fair Cecilia ; and 
 I am told, that this is not the firft conqueft flie has made over 
 the afFeiflions of Englifh paffengers. The Europeans who refide 
 here, all conform to the Tuikifh habit; but this is not expe6led 
 from fojourners like us. As our Eaftern cloaths therefore are 
 much the worfe for wear, we intend to-morrow to refume our 
 own drefs, except at fuch times as we vifit places where it may 
 give offence. The Englifli nation alone, take this liberty with 
 impunity. And I was let into an anecdote of a friend and coun- 
 tryman of mine, who went to the houfe of the bey here in a fhaul 
 turban. This is flriftly prohibited to Chriftians of all denomina- 
 tions ; but was neverthelefs overlooked in him, becaufe he was 
 an Englifhman. 
 
 SATURDAY, 20th September. .. 
 
 We flaid within doors to-day, to amufe ourfelves with the new 
 publications from England, and to fettle our voyage to France. 
 There is a French fliip at Alexandria, which is to fail the begin- 
 ning of next month for Marfeilles ; and Mr. Baldwin has applied 
 to her agent here for a paflage for us. He intends fending dif- 
 patches for the Company in this veflel, and will be better afcertain-: 
 ed of the precife time of her departure. 
 
 Mifir Ul Kaira, or the City of Anguifli, fo called from the fre- 
 quent vifits which it has received from the plague, but commonly 
 termed Grand Cairo by us, is fituated in the latitude of 30° 3 ' N. 
 on an artificial branch of the Nile. Old Cairo nearly faces the 
 river; but the New city is removed above a mile from it, and ap- 
 proaches to the range of mountains which runs through Upper 
 Egypt, and abruptly breaks off here. It is undoubtedly one of 
 
 7 the
 
 [ 336 ] 
 
 the finefl: cities in the Eaft ; which, from the prefent ftile of archl- 
 teflure that reigns among the Orientals, is but a faint commen- 
 dation. The houfes are in general built of ftone, and, being ele- 
 vated to feveral ftories, would make a grand appearance, notwith- 
 flandlng the inelegance of their flru6lure, were not the efFed de- 
 jftroyed by the excefTive narrownefs of the flreets. This is one of 
 the caufes to which the ingenious Dr. Mead afcribes the birth of 
 the plague in this capital ; but experience evinces, that it arifes 
 from foreign and adventitious caufes. There has not been a plague 
 here for thefe feven years; which is rendered more remarkable, 
 by the commencement of the Ruflian war at the date of its cefTa- 
 tion. No one can account for this ; though a year feldom paff- 
 ed by before, without a vifit from it. I do not recoiled: if any 
 writer has taken notice of a circumftance, that diverts this fell de- 
 Ilroyer of a confiderable portion of his terrors in this quarter of 
 the world, and opens an ample lield for philofophical fpeculation. 
 The melancholy confequences of the plague are well known to us. 
 The laws have been alarmed at its very name j and our ports have 
 been fo regulated, as wholly to exclude it. The gay metropolis of 
 London was formerly depopulated by it ; and, in our own age, we 
 have feen the flouiifliing city of Marfeilles rendered a defart by its 
 ravages. From fcenes within the fphere of his knowledge, an ele- 
 gant and fentimental poet of our nation thus feelingly defcribes 
 its baleful influence : 
 
 ** The fuUen door. 
 Yet uninfe6led, on its cautious hinge 
 Fearing to turn, abhors fociety : 
 Dependants, friends, relations. Love himfelf. 
 Savaged by Woe, forget the tender tie. 
 The fweet engagement of the feeling heart." 
 
 jr. This
 
 [ 337 ] 
 
 ".f^T ft; 
 
 This picture is juilr, fo far as it relates to this malady in Europe. 
 But in Turkey the cafe is altered ; and we look in vain for thefe 
 ftrokes of the pathetic. The Mahometans are confirmed Predef- 
 tinarians ; and are not to be deterred by the fear of contagion, 
 from attending their brethren in diftrefs. The millakes of the 
 head here expand the heart with the tide of humanity. The 
 dying have their exit fmoothed by the tender offices of friendfiiip j 
 and thoufands are fnatched from an untimely grave, by the force 
 of an happy prejudice. It is true, that many are plunged into 
 this diflemper, who might otherwife have avoided it; but the 
 evil is far outweighed by the good which refults from it. For 
 the diftemper is by no means fatal. With care and attention, 
 the greater part of the infe£led generally recover. I have myfelf 
 feen a man here, who has had the plague no lefs than five 
 times ; each of which is diftinguiOied by blotches upon different 
 parts of his body, which he will carry with him to his tomb. 
 
 One of the mofl noted things here, is an aquedudt which con- 
 veys water from the Nile to the caftle, that ftands on an hill in 
 the eaft quarter of the city. This aquedudt runs a very confi- 
 derable length. We faw it as we came from Old Cairo, and 
 were told that its courfe is two miles. It is built of flone, and 
 lined on each fide with lofty gothic arches, which give it a very 
 noble appearance. It is however a modern work ; and cannot be 
 clafTed among the antiquities of Egypt. Thefe we are to begin 
 upon, as foon as our bodies are reftored to their former vigor. 
 But the pyramids and the catacombs are too diflant for our mi- 
 nute infpeftion -, and we can only regret, that our time admits of 
 our taking but a pafling view of them. Travellers like us, who 
 fall by accident into a country replete with the monuments ofpafl 
 ages, and whofe time is not at their own difpofal, to gratify the 
 defire of invefligating the remains of decayed art, can only fkim 
 
 X X the
 
 t 338 1 
 
 the furface of the ftream they would willingly dive into ; and 
 have but the merit of an inclination to extend information. 
 
 The late changes which happened here, are confidered of little 
 or no moment among the inhabitants. The depoiing of a bey is 
 attended with no tumult or bloodfhcd within the walls ; where 
 not only the natives but the European faftors, are protefted from 
 violence by remaining within doors. Though no greater revo- 
 lution could have taken place in any government, the whole con- 
 teft fubfifted without the gates : and during an obftinate battle 
 at Bulac for the fovereignty, nothing but order and tranquillity 
 reigned in Cairo. This idea is carried further here than in any 
 other empire. And fo facred do the Turks hold the privilege of 
 a man's houfe, that fcarce an inftance can be produced among 
 them, of private property being plundered in any revolution in 
 the ftate. A proof of this was recently difplayed. The fugitive 
 beys were, for feveral days, in poffeffion of the caftle which com- 
 mands the city. When they found it expedient to quit their poft, 
 they retired with their troops through the ftreets, and enforced a 
 difcipline, that preferved the city from the leaft outrage. Nor 
 difappointed ambition, nor grievous neceffity, could influence 
 them to injure a people, who were devoted to a fuccefsful rival, 
 or replenifh their finances, by a mode fo repugnant to their cuf- 
 toms. Be it known to the Chriftian' leaders of war, that thefe 
 infidels were baniflied their capital — yet voluntarily left it in the 
 enjoyment of that profperity, to which they were loft 1 
 
 In the evening we went to the hum^mum, to refrefh ourfelves 
 after our journey. We found it an handfome ftone fabric, 
 crowned with a large dome, through which the light is admitted 
 to a fquare apartment below. In this apartment the company af- 
 femble, to undrefs themfelves for the bath ; and here they return, 
 to fmoak and drink coffee after the operation ; for which pur- 
 pofe the hall is furrounded with alcoves. There are fmall reccfles 
 5 on
 
 [ 339 J 
 
 on every fide of the hall, which contain cocks or fountains of hot 
 and cold water, to temperate the bath, agreeably to the inclina- 
 tions of every one. The floor is paved with a diverfity of colored 
 marbles, and adds much to the elegance of thefe receptacles of 
 luxury. The ceremony is pretty nearly the fame as in other parts 
 of Turkey ; and having been often defcribed, there is no need of 
 a repetition here. I will juft add, that the cuftom is not only 
 cleanly, but healthy to the laft degree j and it is merely the im- 
 moderate ufe of it that prevails here, which can occafion its being 
 condemned by the praftitioners of phyfic. 
 
 SUNDAY, 2ift September. 
 
 We were introduced to an * Engli(h gentleman this morning, 
 who is in the fervice of the bey. He commands the artillery, and 
 was on the expedition to Syria, in the year 1774, when Maho- 
 met Beg took the cities of Acra and Joppa. During the late dif- 
 putes he was ftationed in Cairo, and retired with the depofed 
 beys into the caftle. But this was only to fave appearances with 
 the beys, in whofe power he was. His heart inclined to Ifmaul 
 Beg ; whom he joined on the retreat of his adverfaries. From 
 this officer, as well as Mr. Baldwin, I gained the particulars 
 of the late revolution. It was quickly conceived, and as quickly 
 executed j and appears to have been the refult of no great in- 
 trigues or difficulties. Simple and uninterefling as the event 
 may be held by the fubjeds of more liable governments, the 
 relation of it may give rife to refledlions not unufeful, to com- 
 parilons not unfavorable to the reader. 
 
 At the death of Mahomet Beg the reins of power devolved to 
 
 X X 2 the 
 
 . * This is more than fufpefted to be an unfortnnate charader, who was obliged 
 to quit his native country fome years ago, on the imputation of a crime of a dark 
 hue.
 
 [ 340 ] 
 
 the hands of four principal beys. Ibrahim Beg, Morad Beg, 
 Muftapha Beg, and Ifmaul Beg, were copartners In the empire 
 of Egypt. The bafhaw, who is fent here by the Porte, has 
 no real influence in the councils. He has not even a voice in 
 affairs of ftatej which he is content to leave to the manage- 
 ment of the beys, on condition of being paid the tribute 
 which the Porte exa6ls. Nay, the beys have fometimes car- 
 ried matters to fo high a pitch, that there is an inftance of 
 Mahomet Beg's refufing to fubmit to this tax, and denying the 
 fuperiority of the Porte. The fiucruating (late of the Turidfh go- 
 vernment, and the war in which it was then involved, prevented 
 its refenting the infult. But weak as its arms may be, there is no 
 doubt of the ftrength of its politics in this quarter. This revo- 
 lution was certainly countenanced by the bafhaw ; and to him 
 Ifmaul Beg is partly indebted for his fuccefs, in expelling his 
 brethren from an adminiflration, in which they had pra6lifed 
 every fpecies of fraud and oppreffion. 
 
 The contefl fuddenly commenced about the end of lafl July. 
 Ifmaul Beg marched a body of troops which he had fecretly col- 
 lected, without the gates of Cairo ; and fent a formal challenge 
 to his brother beys, to go out, and decide their differences in a 
 pitched battle. There was fomething fo gallant and open in this 
 proceeding of Ifmaul Beg, and his character was fo far preferable 
 to that of his competitors, that he foon found himfelf at the head 
 of a greater number of partizans, than the allied beys could 
 bring into the field. They met him, however, with appa- 
 rent refolution, at the appointed place -, and the two armies ap- 
 proached near enough together, for the commanders to revile 
 each other for their condufl, in the mofl opprobrious terms. If- 
 maul Beg firft gave the order for the charge, which was executed 
 f fword in hand, thougli there were boats full of artillery, belong- 
 ing to each party, at hand, and the troops themfi^lves were fur- 
 
 niflied
 
 [ 341 J 
 
 nifhed with fire-arms. But a thhft of revenge, and an eagernefs for 
 blood, which mark the afpe6t of a civil war, hurried them beyond 
 refledion ; and tempted the combatants to truft, as they did of 
 old, to the ftrength of their limbs. The conflifl was (harp and 
 bloody ; but was determined in about a quarter of an hour, in 
 favor of Ifmaul Beg, who drove his opponents back into the 
 city. Muftapha Beg fled immediately to Upper Egypt ; but Ibra- 
 him Beg, and Morad Beg, took refuge in the caftle, which they 
 declared they would defend to the laft extremity. 
 
 Their fituation was ftrong, and matters for fome days had a 
 promifmg appearance. They maintained a correfpondcnce in the 
 city, and flattered themfelves with fpeedy relief from Mulf apha 
 Beg. But this dawn of hope was quickly overcafl:. Their raif- 
 condu(St compleated what their misfortune began. Jealoufies 
 arofe between the chiefs, and entailed a fudden defedion among 
 their adherents. In fliort, they found their numbers fo decreafed, 
 that they judged themfelves unfafe in their pofl:, and contrived 
 the means of efcape. They retreated at midnight to the Nile, 
 where they embarked unmolefted for Jirje, on boats that had 
 been prepared for them. 
 
 This efcape was accomphflied, as fome think, by the connivance 
 of Ifmaul Beg himfelf, who was glad, at any rate, to be rid of th& 
 prefence of his rivals. But he had foon reafon to repent of this 
 flep. In the courfe of a week, he found the fugitive beys were at 
 the head of a confiderable body of men, which they had raifed 
 upon the river. This force was fl:rengthened by a fleet of gal lies, 
 under the command of Muftapha Beg. To crufh this danger in 
 its infancy, Ifmaul Beg fent up a large armament to engage 
 them ; and had the mortification to fee it return, vanquiflied and 
 difperfed. The tide was now turned, and fuccefs feemed to de- 
 fert the banners of the viftor. Flufhed with this critical advan- 
 tage, Ibrahim Beg hotly purfued the troops of his adverfary; and 
 
 thou^h-L
 
 [ 342 ] 
 thought of nothing, but re-entering the capital in triumph. 
 -Terror preceded his fteps, and Egypt prepared herfelf to fubniit 
 again to his yoke. In this eventful moment, Ifmaul Beg march- 
 ed without the walls of the city, and, with the concurrence of the 
 bafliaw, who has the charge of it, fet up the ftandard of the Pro- 
 phet ; which is only difplayed in times of extreme danger, and in- 
 vites all true Muffulmen to draw their fwords in its defence. This 
 manoeuvre exceeded his moft fanguine expeflations. He recruited 
 his army, and revived the fpirits of the foldiers to fuch a degree, 
 that, advancing to meet Ibrahim about the middle of Auguft, he 
 totally defeated him, after an obftinate encounter. Ibrahim Beg 
 is faid to have fought very gallantly on this day j and not to have 
 quitted the field, until he had two horfes killed under him. He 
 fled with precipitation up the Nile, while the remains of his troops 
 fubmitted to the conqueror, and has now joined Morad Beg and 
 Muftapha Beg, as I have before mentioned, daring our refidence 
 at Ghinnah. He was lately followed by confiderable detachments 
 from hence, which it is expefted will compel the unfortunate 
 chiefs to feek for refuge in another country. 
 
 On his return to Cairo, Ifmaul Beg was univerfally acknow- 
 ledged as the reigning bey, and his title recognized by the Porte. 
 This is a circumftance very agreeable to Mr. Baldwin, and the 
 European merchants fettled here, who were much opprelTed by 
 Ibrahim Beg, and find a fenfible difference in the deportment and 
 -difpofition of his fucceflbr. He is an encourager of commerce, 
 and difplays a partiality for the Englifli, whofe recent attempts to 
 reftore the navigation of the Red-fea have excited his admiration 
 and efteem. The few executions which have taken place fince 
 his acceffion to power, denote his humanity, and exhibit a con- 
 .du6t which wholly deviates from the general line of Mahometan 
 politics. 
 
 In
 
 [ 343 ] 
 
 In the evening we accompanied Mr. Baldwin to the houfe of a 
 Greek lady, who is married to a Frenchman. She is a native of 
 Scio, and, though the mother of feveral children, ftill does credit 
 to the accounts of the beauties of that ifland. She has a daughter 
 about feventeen, in whom are renewed the charms of the parent. 
 Indeed there is no doubt but the Turks polTefs the fineft women 
 in the world, whom their vicinity to Greece gives them an oppor- 
 tunity of procuring. The brother of this damfel is likely to go 
 in the fame fliip with us to Marfeilles, where they have a fifter 
 married : in which cafe, the fair Vidtoria has given him an 
 unfailing recommendation to our notice. 
 
 MONDAY, 22d September. 
 
 We fallied forth this morning in company with the comman- 
 dant of the artillery, who is kind enough to be our guide in vi- 
 fiting the curiofities of Cairo. As no Chriftian, without the 
 fan6lion of the bey, is allowed to ride an horfe here, we were con- 
 tent to mount that humble animal, the afs, in order to be con- 
 veyed to the places which we propofed to examine. To obtain 
 that fanftion, the fon of a nobleman of the firft rank and family 
 in England, is fuppofed to have made confiderable prefents to 
 the bey, when he paffed through this city fome years ago. But 
 the confequence was, to prote6l him from the infults of the po- 
 pulace, there was a guard obliged to be placed about his horfe, 
 when he ftirred abroad. The diftinflion, therefore, was dearly 
 purchafed, on every account. Every thing grows familiar by 
 habit ; and Europeans think no more of beftriding an afs here, 
 than they would of popping into an hackney-coach in Paris or 
 London. It is the common mode of conveyance, and afles are to 
 be found in every ftreet, for the accommodation of gentlemen 
 who are afliamed to be feen on foot. We were not in this fecret 
 
 on
 
 [ 344 ] 
 
 on the morning of our arrival here, or we would not have fhunned 
 a feeming indignity to incur a profefled one. 
 
 We pufhed on our beafls through a number of extenfive ftreets, 
 in our way to the caftle, which ftands upon a folid rock nearly in 
 the center of the city. The ftreets are univerfally narrow, and 
 fo crouded with people, that we experienced no Httle difficulty in 
 getting along. But this difficulty was balanced by the coolnefs 
 which reigns in them. The narrow palTage draws a conftant fup- 
 ply of air ; and the height of the houfes affiards a Ihade at noon 
 to the paflengers below. We were immediately fenlible of our ap- 
 proach to the caftle. The ground rifes pretty gradually, until 
 we got towards the top of the hill. Here it breaks off" into an 
 abrupt fteep, and we difmovmted and left our afles with their 
 owners, before we entered one of the pofterns of the caftle. The 
 fortifications of tliis place are in a difmantled ftate, though the 
 elevation of the hill is a fafficient ftrength to people determined 
 to defend themfelves. We pafTed through many ftreets, which 
 are inhabited by the domeftics and dependants of the baftiaw, 
 who ufually takes up his quarters in this fortrefs. We directed 
 our fteps to a building, which is reputed to be the hall where Jo- 
 feph gave audience to his brethren, when they came to purchafe 
 corn in Egypt. This hall is the only remaining part of a large 
 and magnificent edifice ; the ruins of which befpeak the wealth 
 and grandeur of its founder. The hall is a fquare of about fixty 
 feet, the roof of which was a dome, that was fupported by a 
 double row of granite pillars. The dome is fallen in; but the 
 pillars pronounce its former loftinefs and magnitude. They are 
 •each of a fingleftone, thirty feet high, and about twenty-fix inches 
 diameter. There is a cornice of ftone above them, which is in- 
 fcribed with letters of gold, in fo obfolete a language, that we are 
 told no one is able to read them. 
 
 We
 
 E 345 } 
 
 We went from hence to the council-chamber, where the bafhaw 
 and the beys meet, to deUberate on public affairs. The apart- 
 ment is of a vaft length, and ornamented with relics of mofaic 
 work, and pillars of porphyry. At the upper end there is a fe- 
 ci uded feat for the bafhaw, furrounded with green lattices. Here 
 he takes his poll in all the vanity of ftate, and has the mortifica- 
 tion of being privy to councils, in which he not only has no fliare, 
 but which frequently operate againft his interefl. There is a 
 rope ftill depending from a beam in this apartment, on which, it 
 is faid, a bey was once hung, during feme tumultuous difputes at 
 the council-board. There is nothing improbable in this ftory. 
 But it is not fo eafy to account, for their permitting this dif- 
 graceful inflrument of violence to remain in fo confpicuous a 
 place. In an adjacent building they Ihewed us fome arms of 
 great antiquity. Among thofe moft worthy of note, are fome 
 Roman battle-axes, 4nd a bow of fuch thicknefs and length, 
 as would require the ftrengtli of a Patagonian to draw. 
 
 We were now conduiSted to Jofeph's well. This is another 
 work which bears the name of that Patriarch, and is, indeed, an 
 aftonifhing monument of labor. It is fo deep, that a number of 
 oxen are conftantly employed, in raifing water for the accommo- 
 dation of the garrifon. There is a team above to raife the water 
 from a chamber below, fixty feet from the furface of the earth. 
 To this chamber you defcend, by a flight of fteps cut out of the 
 folid rock ; and here you find a fecond team of oxen to draw the 
 water to that level. The authenticity, however, of thefe works, 
 which boaft of fo early an origin, has been much doubted by late 
 travellers. It would be prefumption in us to give adecifion from 
 a curfory view, on a matter which would require a difpaifionate 
 inveftigation. Before we quitted the caftle, we aicended a 
 mount of earth, from whence we had an uninterrupted view of 
 the Q^ty. It appears from hence not half fo large as London 
 
 Y y does
 
 [ 346 ] 
 
 does from the top of St. Paul's ; but the extent of the Nile, 
 which has fpread itfelf into a lake, as far as the eye can reach; 
 the clufter of iflands which crown the fdver expanfe ; and the 
 majefty of the mountains which bound the fmiling fcene, 
 give a noble variety to the profpe6l, which London, with all 
 its opvdence and grandeur, cannot afford. We went out of the 
 caftle through the principal gate, which faces the great market- 
 place. As we defcended to it, we paffed between the houfes, 
 where the fugitive beys remained, when they fliut themfelves up 
 in the caftle. 
 
 We found our affes at the gate, where thay had been brought 
 by the direction of our conduftor. On our return home we 
 made a circuit of the city, and had an opportunity of being ap- 
 prized of our want of confequence in this place. We met with 
 one of the meffengers of death, who delivers the fatal mandate 
 to the fubje6l, who has become obnoxious to the bey. He is an 
 officer of the firft rank, and is diftinguifhed by a cap like a fugar- 
 loaf,. at the fight of which every Chriftian is obliged to difmount 
 his afs *. We followed the example of our conduftor -, and as we 
 alighted near the palace of Morad Beg, he took us in to fee it. 
 We entered a fpacious court-yard, and found a fquare building- 
 with four handfome faces ; but could not get in to fee it, on 
 account of the female fide being inhabited. The women of the 
 bey ftill refide here, although he will probably be in exile all his 
 life. '■ But fuch refpe6l do the Turks pay to the charadlers of 
 women, that there is no danger of their being molefted ei-' 
 ther in perfon or property, however adlive the pare their rela- 
 tions, or even hufbands, may take in a time of trouble. We had' 
 a teftimony of this refpecl as we left the bey's palace. No lefs 
 than thirtywomen were returning to it, mounted on mules,' 'and 
 attended by a guard of eunuchs. They were vailed from head 
 
 * 'TThe cliiaux of the Janifarics likewife cxait this compliment from Chriftians. 
 
 2 tq
 
 [ 347 ] 
 
 to foot, and we are told, that no lefs a punifhment than death 
 would be the portion of any ;one, who would prefume to remove 
 that curtain. We arrived at Mr. Baldwin's about noon, very 
 well pleafed with our morning's excurfion, and not at all diflatif- 
 lied with the fpirit and paces of our affes. 
 
 In the evening we walked with Mr. Baldwin in a garden be- 
 longing to fome Francifcan friars. It is neatly laid out in walks, 
 and is an evening rendezvous for the Europeans of this city. 
 We were here joined by a French nobleman, who is faid to be 
 binder a temporary banilhment from the court of France. He is 
 a man of polite addrefs, and pafTes for a proficient in the polite 
 arts. We had a very agreeable fpecimen of his Ikill in niufic, 
 as we adjourned to the French fadlory, to be prefent at a concert 
 in which he led the firft violin, with uncommon tafte and execu- 
 tion. Mr. Baldwin bears a part at thefe little meetings, which are 
 an admirable relief to a mind engaged in bufinefs. 
 
 SATURDAY, 23d September. 
 
 •. Our departure is fixed for to-morrow evening, fo that our ftay 
 m this capital will be but fhort. We would wiUingly have de- 
 dicated another week to fo celebrated a fcene ; but our buiinefs 
 interferes with our pleafures. It is with double regret that we 
 now look back to the time which we loft at Ghinnah, and which 
 might have been fo profitably fpent in the city and environs of 
 Cairo. 
 
 Our Arabs came this day to take leave of us. As foon as we 
 could obtain money for our bills on London, we had difcharged 
 our notes of hand to Hadgee Uttalah, and given him thff'pro- 
 mifed drefs, befides a gratuity to himfelf and to all the camel- 
 people according to their rank, for their care and honefty in 
 bringing us fafely here. We (hould not have omitted the cap- 
 
 Y y 2 tain
 
 [ 348 ] 
 
 tain of the robbers, among the number of thofe who demanded 
 our acknowledgments, could we have promifed ourfelves the 
 certainty of any token of ours reaching his hand. But our 
 principal concern was to fhew our gratitude to the Shaik Ul 
 'Arab, to whofe friendfliip we owed more than we could pof- 
 fibly repay. We could not err in fuppofing, that a proof of our 
 remembrance would make a greater impreffion at fuch a diftance, 
 however trivial it might be, than a valuable confideration would 
 ( have done at Ghinnah. He there had it in his power to reject 
 ' our offerings ; but ere this came to his poffeflion we fhould have 
 quitted the country. We could only confult the genius of the 
 people, to render a flight prefent acceptable ; though we did our 
 venerable friend the juftice to believe, that the intention of the 
 prefent would be its chief recommendation in his eyes. A Tur- 
 key carpet for the ufe of his feraglio, and a piece of purple broad 
 cloth with fattin facings, for a veft for himfelf, were what we 
 c put up on this occafion. To thefe Mr. Baldwin added fomejars 
 '- of French fruits and Italian fweetmeats, and other rarities of this 
 \ kind, which he judged would be agreeable to the ladies, of the 
 : feraglio. We delivered thefe things into the charge of Hadgee 
 Uttalah, with a complimentary letter from Mr. Baldwin, and an- 
 1 other from ourfelves. Mr. Baldwin's letter was conceived in 
 general terms. He fpoke of the generofity, with which the 
 r; Ihaik had behaved towards fome of the fubjedls of the king of 
 z'- Great Britain, and he extolled the merit of the aftion. He 
 J thanked him, in the king's name, for this inftance of his good- 
 will, and begged leave to cultivate the correfpondence which had 
 fo accidentally arifen between them. A correfpondence, he added, 
 which- had commenced in a manner fo much to the honour of 
 the fhaik, and which could not fail to extend his reputation to 
 "i the remoteft corners of the Britilh dominions. Our letter, per- 
 haps/was lefs courtly, though not lefs fmcere. We recapitulated 
 
 ■ .. > r aizii the.
 
 [ 349 ] 
 
 •the favors which we had received from the fha'k. We hhited at 
 the defperate fituation in which his vigilance had difcovered us, and 
 compared it with our prefent happy circumftances. The change 
 we afcribed entirely to his humanity. We lamented our inability 
 to tranfmit him a more liberal token of our gratitude, and en- 
 treated him to confider the tender which we had prefumed to make, 
 with his wonted candor and benevolence. Finally, we acknow- 
 ledged the fidelity of the camel-drivers, who had enabled us to 
 comply with his laft injunftions, and to call the world to witnefs, 
 that our high fenfe of his favors would only ceafe to exift with 
 our lives. 
 
 Thefe letters were rendered into Arabic by Mr. Baldwin's inter- 
 preter. Sufficient praife cannot be given to that gentleman for 
 the intereft which he took in this affair. Our tribute, fuch as it 
 was, has alrdady been paid him. It remains only for his employers 
 to do juftice to the fpirit with which he fupported their credit, 
 and that of the Englilh nation. At parting he prefented Hadgee 
 Uttalah with a pipe of fome value ; and we had the pleafure to fee 
 .him and his companions depart, not lefsfatisfied with our bounty 
 towards themfelves, than furprized at our remembrance of their 
 abfent mailer. 
 
 It may not, perhaps, be thought impertinent to remark, that 
 ^rl the report of thefe Arabs will be of no diflervice to the Company y 
 ■c Ihould they adopt the idea of having their packets forwarded from 
 India, by the way of Cofire and Ghinnah. The port of Cofire is 
 open at all feafons of the year, while that of Suez is fhut up by 
 the northerly winds no lefs than eight months out of twelve. A 
 fa6t which I have endeavoured to eflablifh in a former part of this 
 work. 
 
 Amid thefe agreeable tranfa^ions, we encountered one 'of a dif- 
 ferent nature. After the repeated inftances which Abdul RufTar 
 fo iiad afforded us of his honefty, it appeared that there were ino- 
 ?.^- ments in which he was not proof to temptation. Ibrahim, ever 
 3 - indolent
 
 [ 35° ] 
 
 •indolent and fimple, had from time to time lent this fellow mo- 
 ney, and fmce our arrival at Cairo the fum was confiderablyin- 
 creafed. It was but yefterday noon that we paid up Abdul Ruf^ 
 far's wages, at his own requeflj and at night he decamped in 
 Ibrahim's debt. This intelligence was juft now communicated to 
 us, and, from fome circumftances, it is probable that he is re- 
 turned to his native country. To diilipate Ibrahim's chagrin, in 
 fome meafure, we took this opportunity to difcharge our obliga- 
 tions to him. We had advanced fome money to the captain on 
 his account, on our leaving the Adventure ;. and we now prefented 
 him with fuch a gratuity as our finances would admit .of. His 
 fervices were beyond the common clafs, and were not to be re- 
 warded by any limited wages. Our good- will was only to be 
 bounded by our ability; and he obtained from us a purfe con- 
 taining an hundred Venetians. We could have wished, indeed, 
 the fum had been doubled for his fake. But when it is confider- 
 ed, that he will work his paflage to India on the fhips of next 
 feafon, and that Mr. Baldwin has generoufly offered him his table 
 while he remains here, the fum may be carried to his family free 
 of all deductions, and will be no trivial addition to the for- 
 tune of an Indian. Notwithflanding this difcharge, Ibrahim 
 means to accompany us to Alexandria, and to fee us embark for 
 Europe. 
 
 Among ovir other recreations here, we make a daily pra6i:ice of 
 offering incenfe to a fair idol, who lives oppofite our houfe. She 
 is a mixture of the Greek and French, as well in her origin as 
 her compofition, being as remarkable for vivacity and good- 
 humour in her temper, as for fymmetry and elegance in her per- 
 fon. This young damfel quickly found out our arrival, and, 
 like other fmging-birds Ihut up in a cage, began to difplay her 
 attractions the moment flie had caught our obfervation. She ap- 
 pears at her window every morning and evening, and either 
 awakes our attention with her guitar, or condefcends to reply to 
 
 I our
 
 our addrefTes) wKicTi "a*re "breathed to her acrofs a narrow ftreet.' 
 She has an old mother, who feems to encourage the innocent 
 damfel in her coquetry ; and I fear would prove but a treacherous 
 portrefs to the caftle, were fome lover, Hke Jupiter, daring enough 
 todefcend to this Danae in a fliower of gold. There are numbers 
 of captive nymphs in this city, who figh for liberty, and would 
 throw themfelvcs into the arms of any European who made ho- 
 nourable addreffes to them. Bred up in the circle of French fo- 
 ciety, and denied the freedom which they hear the females enjoy 
 in France, they repine at their deftiny, and would chearfully leave 
 the manners, cuftoms, and country of Turkey behind them. 
 
 As we returned from the gardens of the convent this evening, 
 we met a gentleman near the French faflory, who is to be our 
 fellow-paflenger to Marfeilles. It feems, that he is a man of eru- 
 dition and tafte ; was formerly fecretary to the embafly at Rome; 
 and is now on his return to France from a tour of Greece and 
 Egypt. He was introduced to us by the name of Meillon, and 
 promifes to turn out no inconfiderable acquifition to our fociety 
 during the voyage, and the term of our quarantine at Mar- 
 feilles. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, 24th September. 
 
 ^1 We have been preparing ourfelves this morning to take leave of 
 this great city. Our ftay has not been equal to our curiofity, but 
 perfe6lly fuitable to our defigns, which are to get to England with 
 all poilible expedition. The packets with which we are charged 
 have doubtlefs reached London before us by duplicates ; but v/e 
 have private as well as public concerns ; and it is time for us to 
 undeceive our friends, and to remove their apprehenfions for 
 our fafety. 
 
 Until the arrival of Mr. Baldwin, about two years ago, the 
 Englilh carried on no commerce .in; this- city, lie is ftill the 
 
 onlv
 
 [ 352 } 
 
 only merchant of our nation here, and is agent to the company 
 for forwarding their packets to and from India. And, con- 
 fidered in itfclf, this is a point of no little importance to that 
 poUtical body. The advantage of quick intelligence is no 
 fecret to a wife government. The paflage home is, indeed, as 
 yet precarious, by the difficult na\ngation of the gulph of Suez ; 
 but the palTage out is fure and expeditious. There is an inftance, 
 not tvi^o months ago, of a Mr. Whitehill coming from London 
 to Caiio in a month. He was charged with the reftoration of 
 Lord Pigot to the government of Fort St. George; and it is fup- 
 pofed will get to that place in the fame period. A voyage, which 
 feldom is effedted by the Cape of Good Hope in double the 
 time ! 
 
 The decay of the Englifh trade in any quarter, is naturally 
 fuppofed to give vigor to the exertions of the French. They are 
 avowed rivals in wealth as well as power, and mutually rife on the 
 ruins of each other. But this rule will not hold in refpedt to the 
 commerce of Egypt. However flourifliing the French traffic 
 may be in other parts of the Levant, it is apparently here in a 
 confumptive ftate. No other fymptom of this is neceflary to be 
 produced, than the reduction of their eftablifhments. The con- 
 fuKhip of Cairo has been ftruck otf as a fruitlefs expence, by a 
 recent order from France ; and it is obferved, that a fpirit of dif- 
 fipation and gaming has crept in among the merchants, which 
 was unknown in bufy times, and is wholly incompatible with 
 their fituation. A decline of this nature will give fcope to the 
 induftry of the Venetians and other ftates of Italy, who have 
 faftories here, and cut no inconfiderable figures in the commer- 
 cial fcale. 
 
 At noon we fent down our baggage to the boat, which we had 
 agreed for to take us as far as Rofetto. We paid but fixteen dol- 
 lars for the hireof tliis boar, and, with the affiftance of Mr. Bald- 
 win's fervants, laid up fome cold provifion for the pafTage. The 
 
 markets
 
 [ 353 ] 
 
 markets of Cairo are plentifully fupplied with a variety of articles, 
 at reafoiiable rates. Flelh, fowl, and fifh, are daily expofed for fale ; 
 and are ferved up in great perfe6tion at Mr. Baldwin's table, 
 which amply fupports the charadler of Englifh hofpitality. 
 
 At five o'clock we were joined by Monfieur Meillon, and 
 having once more arrayed ourCelves in our Turkifh habits, we 
 mounted our afles and proceeded to Bulac. Bulac is the port of 
 Cairo, where every one. is obliged to embark, in order to have his 
 goods pafTed at the cuftom-houfe. Mr. Baldwin was fo obliging 
 as to accompany vis thither, to fee us on board the boat. We had 
 two miles to go, and in the way, obtained the fight of a part of 
 the city which Vi- as new to us ; and which every where difplays a 
 face of magnificence, we little expedted to find in Egypt. We went 
 thiough a fquarethatis'orfeof the finelllever beheld, both in refpeft 
 to its extent, and the loftinefs of the buildings which furround it. I 
 fpeak within bounds when I pronounce it to be nearly two miles in? 
 circumference j and at this time the area exhibits a beautiful flieet 
 of water, covered with gay boats of all denominations. When tho, 
 Nile retires within his banks again, the beauty of this fquare will 
 not be loft j as the bed of the prefent canal will wear a drefs of 
 the livelieft verdure, during the other months of the year. We 
 reached Bulac about fix o'clock, and getting our baggage paifed 
 without any delay, we went on board the boat, which we found 
 to be very large and convenient. We are now, for the firft time, 
 in our progrefs througli Egypt, to be flieltered from the fun, and 
 tq.travel at our eafe, and in full fecurity from danger. From the 
 fpaeiouihefs and convenience of our vehicle, and the charms of 
 this celebrated river, we look for nothing but pleafure in this 
 voyage. Mr. Baldwin has been fo obliging as to fecurc us a 
 reception at Rofetto and Alexandria, by furnifiiing us with 
 letters to his agents there; and in every refpeft, has anfwered 
 the expectations which v/e had formed fj'om his character and 
 
 Z z ftation. 
 
 ft TT fr
 
 r 354 J 
 
 ftation*. We parted with him at feveii o'clock, when our 
 boat weighed and fell down with the tide. We have the cabbins 
 wholly to ourfelves ; but flie has feveral paffengers on board, 
 befides us and our fervants, and a valuable cargo of coffee. The 
 wind is right againft us, notwithitanding which we drop down 
 at the rate of three miles an hour. Juft before fun-fet we opened 
 the pyramids, which were in a dire(5l line behind us. The moun- 
 tainous Itature of thefe pyramids was iucreafed by the fetting 
 ray, which had fallen behind them, and exhibited a fpeftacle at 
 once fublime and pi6lurefque. The night now fpread her cur- 
 tains round the world, and difpofed us to reft. At midnight we 
 palled the village of Daranie, on the Delta, where the Nile di- 
 vides himfelf into two branches, which fall into the Mediterra- 
 nean at Rofetto and Damiat, near ioo*mi:es afunder, and form 
 the Delta, one of the moil: fertile iflands in the world. We 
 took the branch that runs to Rofetto, and continued the whole 
 night to drop down with the current. The wind abated towards 
 morning, and our courfe was confequently quickened. The 
 reader is here prefented with the courfe of the greater branches 
 of the Nile from Cairo to the Mediterranean, as a fupplementto 
 the chart of its courfe through Upper Egypt. 
 
 * I have learnt, with no little concern, that the fituation of this gentleman has 
 been fome time paft very critical. On the plundering of the caravan, in the fum- 
 rrer of 1779, between Suez and Cairo, the government bound Mr. Baldwin to 
 prevent a retaliation on the part of the Englifli, and he was no more than a pri- 
 foner at large, until very lately that he efrefted his efcape. In this manner has 
 the treaty of commerce betv^-een the EngliQi and the government of Cairo, been 
 prtfcrvcd ! Thus have the fortunes of many gentlemen, who built their hopes on 
 the faith of nation^, and remitted their property from India through this channel^ 
 fallen a facrincc to the inconftancy and avarice of a faithlefs race ! Indeed, a revolu- 
 tion has happened in Cairo fince that defcribed in this work, fo the wonder would 
 be, that any treaty was refpe<Slcd by iuch a fiutStuatiog government. 
 
 7 THURSDAY,
 
 ?£ri ncmahnss 
 
 
 ■J jHgin 

 
 -'^^^njriiiiR.KNE.
 
 [ 3S5 } 
 
 THURSDAY, 25th September. 
 
 I rofe at day-break, to take a view of the country around us'. 
 There was now a fine leading wind, and we went with great ra- 
 pidity through the water. The navigation of this river is cer- 
 tainly the moft delightful, that fancy can pi6ture to itfelf. To 
 the right of us is the beautiful ifland of Delta, covered with grain, 
 interfecled with canals, and thickly fet with large towns and 
 romantic villages. The fcene to the left is of a different hue. 
 The banks, indeed, are adorned with handfome cities and ex- 
 tenfive groves, and a tra6l of country as verdant as the oppofite ; 
 but then the defart appears behind this garden, and gives a noble 
 variety to the profpe6l. At feven o'clock we paffed very near 
 the town of Demifchili, on the weftern bank, and ran by feveral 
 iflands of various forms, which waved with crops of grain. In 
 {landing from one fide of the river to the other, we ran afhore at 
 nine o'clock, oppofite a place called Abuel Hau, where we 
 were detained above half an hour. We find that boats fre- 
 quently meet with thefe accidents on the Nile ; but the bottom 
 being every where a rich clay, they are produ6live of nothing 
 worfe than the lofs of time. There is i\o danorer to be now 
 apprehended from the natives in the day, nor will they even 
 venture to attack any but fmall boats in the niglit, in fuch a 
 fituation. The fecurity of this navigation is much amended of 
 late ; though our boat is too ftrong to have fhrunk from danger 
 in the worft of times. 
 
 By the adlivity of our people we got afloat again, and purfued 
 our voyage until noon, without any further obftacle. We now 
 found ourfelves at the town of Elfeiale, on the Delta. We met 
 with but few towns in this lafl run. What we have hitherto 
 feen are moftly in a ruinous condition -, but being all embeliiflied 
 
 Z z 2 with
 
 [ 356 ] 
 
 with lofty mofques and the ruins of magnificent ftru6tures,. 
 they cut a very elegant appearance from the water. We were 
 provided with fome roafted fowls, an excellent pie, and fome 
 bottles of wine, to which we paid oui" refpecls with great appe- 
 tite. It is with difficulty that we can tear ourfelves from the 
 deck on any occafioii, as the o.bje6ls around us are of afafcinat- 
 ing nature. The towns, now began to thicken on us again. 
 We ran by the villages of Nedfgili, Berim, and Feriftah^ befides a 
 number of others which we palled in mid-ftream, and which are 
 to be found in a map that Mr. Neiburh has given of the 
 great branches of the Nile. At five in the evening we went 
 under the town of Schabur, on the wcftern bank, and opened a 
 point of the river with a fine breeze. I:mumerable are the fmall 
 and large craft which we have met in our run from Cairo, and 
 which convey to the traveller fome idea of the extenfive com- 
 merce of Egypt. The exports, however, are chiefly confined 
 to the articles of life, and her corn is diflributed to the different 
 ports of the Mediterranean and the Red-fea. This is the coin 
 in which fhe pays for the coffee of Arabia, and the cotton and 
 filk of Perfia : and, inftead of laying illegal impofls on the mer- 
 chant, had flie but wifdom enough to trade upon her own bot- 
 toms, without fuffering foreign nations to engiofs the freight 
 of her commodities, there is no doubt that her gains would 
 exceed thofe of every other country. 
 
 The wind died away towards fun-fet, which induced our crew 
 to man a pinnace, which has been hitherto a-ilern, to tow us 
 down the flream. This is of great afliftance to us, and we hope 
 will enfure our arrival at Rofetto in the morning. We have put 
 fome pafTengers afliore at feveral places which we have palTed, 
 but fhall carry the principal part of them to Rofetto. Thefe 
 pafTengers are lodged under an awning, which extends from the 
 cabbin to the mainmafti and is capable of containing twenty 
 2 people.
 
 [ 357 ] 
 
 people. Among them is a poor boy, who lofl: his father in the 
 late troubles at Cairo. He has a good appearance, and told his 
 tragic ftory fo pathetically, that we were moved to cornpafTion, 
 and made a colle6tion among us, to enable him to return to his 
 family, who are at Conftantinople. 
 
 The night is ferene and unclouded, but we have no light fave 
 what the ftars afford. It is a lucky circumftance, perhaps, for 
 our bodies, that our minds are difengaged from the profpe<5ls 
 around, and that there is no moon to tempt us to wafte thofe 
 hours upon deck, which fhould be dedicated to fleep. We con- 
 tinued to fall down flowly during the night. 
 
 FRIDAY, 26th September. 
 
 - We had the pleafure, at day-break, to find ourfclves near the 
 city of Fue, on the Delta. This city is in the latitude of 31' 
 10' north, and within thirty miles of Rofetto. It is flill of a 
 confiderable extent, and affords an infinity of lofty minarets to 
 the paflenger's view, whofe tops were now gilded with the morning 
 ray. Confidering the want of wind, our progrefs has not been 
 tardy. The country on each fide of ixs is ftill a garden, and 
 exhibits an agreeable variety of fruit-trees and corn-fields, opu- 
 lent towns and fequeftered villages. Now and then we meet 
 with fmall iflands, more verdant than the infant buds of fpring. 
 At feven o'clock we pafTed between the towns of Deirut and 
 Disjedie, in the former of which there is one of the mod beau- 
 tiful molques in Egypt. We have found no increafe in the 
 breadth of the Nile fince we left Cairo ; nor is this fo much to 
 be wondered at, if we confider the great depth of the channel, 
 and the multitvide of canals which every where divert his waters. 
 V/c pafTed in the night the grand canal which fupplies Alexan- 
 dria with water, and is faid to be the work of' Alexander. It be- 
 gins
 
 [ 3S3 ] 
 
 gias nearly oppofite tlie town of Mehallct Malik, on the Delta ; 
 and while it was open for boats, fliortened the diftance one third, 
 in the voyage we are engaged in. But it would have been a 
 pity to have robbed us of any of the charms of this river. We 
 were flill-feafting luxurioufly on the profpe6l before us, when* 
 we came within fight of the city of Rofetto, which is known? 
 at a diftance, by the ruins of an antient tower on an hill to the 
 fouthward of the place. We ran under a mofque fituated on an 
 ifland ; and at one o'clock, anchored before the city. We went 
 afliore immediately, and waited on Monfieur Teflier, a French 
 merchant of this place, to whom Mr. Baldwin was fo kind as 
 to furnifh us with a letter. We were received very politely by 
 this gentleman, who made us a tender of his houfe during our' 
 Ihort ftay. Monfieur MeUlon, our fellow-traveller, took up 
 his quarters with the French conful, who is but newly arrived 
 here. 
 
 Rofetto, or Rafchid, is fituated in 31° 23 'north latitude, on 
 the weftern bank of the Nile, and is reckoned one of the 
 prettieft and compacleft cities in Egypt. It is the next to 
 Cairo for commerce, if we except Alexandria, and exceeds 
 them both in the falubrity of its air, and the beauty of its fitua-' 
 tion. The Nile runs in its front, and the fea lies within ten 
 miles of its rear, from whence it is conftantly refrefhed with 
 cooling breezes. The country about it is a continued plantation 
 of lemon, citron, and orange-trees. We walked out in the even-' 
 ing to i'urvey the city and its environs. The ftreets are regular;^ 
 and the buildings in general neat and lofty. We prefently quit- 
 ted the town, and were, in a manner, buried among fragrant 
 groves, vv'here the fun's burning rays never intrude themfelves; 
 The walks v/ere ftrewed with the bloflbms of the trees, whofe 
 boughs were at the fame time loaded with golden fruit. In this 
 happy clime the feafons are joyoufly blended together ; and the 
 
 traveller.
 
 [ 359 ] 
 
 traveller, in thefe retreats, might think himfelf tranfported to the . 
 regions of fancy *. Here peace and plenty reign. The noife and 
 hurry of a city are not perceivable in this peninfula, which was not 
 the leaft difturbed by the late revolution in the ftate, though at fo ; 
 fliort a diftance from the capital. But this may be partly owing 
 to the nature of the Turkifli cuftoms. The changes in the go- 
 vernment do not affect the fubjecl ; nor the evils of public dif- 
 putes extend beyond thofe who choofe to take a part in them. 
 
 On our return home vv€ paffed the French factory, which is a 
 fpacious edifice, and difplays a very handfome front to the river. 
 There is a wharf before it of near a mile in length, which affords 
 a pleafant walk to the inhabitants. On the north fide of this 
 wharf ftands the houfe of the late Mr. Wortiey Montague, who 
 was fo celebrated for his wit and curiofity, and his extraordinary 
 attachment to Mahometan countries ; but, perhaps, not lefs re- 
 markable for being the fon of the ingenious lady Mary of the 
 fame name. He refided here more than three years ; and his lol's 
 is ftill regretted by Monfieur Teffier, and the gentlemen of Ro- 
 fetto. 
 
 We fupped and flept at the French merchant's, whofe coniplai- 
 fance extended to the procuring us places in apaffage-boat, that 
 fails before day-break for Alexandria. We have been obliged to 
 prefer this mode to the ufual route by land, which we are alhu-ed 
 has been infeftcd by v^ild Arabs, ever fince the commencement of 
 the late troubles. We fliail be no lofers by the change, as the 
 country between Rofetto and Alexandria, is Uttlc better than a de- 
 fart ; and we fliall now have an opportunity of examining one of 
 the mouths of the Nile. This mouth, it feems, is fo choaked up 
 with a bar of fand, as to render it impaflable to any veflcl that 
 draws more than nine feet water. The mouth of the eaftera 
 
 * Well did theydeferve to be the favorite refldciicc of the beaut-iful Cleopatra! 
 
 branch
 
 [360] 
 
 branch is more eafy of accefs. Foreign vefTelscome up almoft to 
 Damiat ; and we underftand the Turkifli frigate pafled that way 
 to Cairo. But flie was obliged to be lightened for that purpofe ; 
 and it is only during the inundation of the Nile, that veflels of 
 fuch a confVruftion can enter this river, which is navigable for 
 near a thoufand miles, and, were this defeat cured, might exhibit 
 fhips of various nations in the heart of Egypt. 
 
 SATURDAY, 27th September. 
 
 We embarked at four o'clock this morning on the boat, to 
 which our baggage and fervants had been fhifted the preceding 
 evening. It was a veflel of a different built and conveniency, to 
 the one we had left. It was not very unlike the bark in which 
 we were fo long toffed about the Red-fea, fave that we were now 
 provided with a good awning to flielter us from the fun, in con- 
 fideration of a piece of gold which each of us gave for himfelf and 
 fervants. There were no pafTengers befides us; and her cargo 
 was not very confidcrable. We weighed anchor, in company with 
 thirty fail of the fame craft, and fell down gently with the tide. 
 About fun-rife we found ourfelves oppofite an old caftle on the 
 peninfula, which appears to have been originally built for the de^ 
 fence of the river. We crofled the flream here, and anchored at 
 the village of Arbut on the Delta, where we were obliged to wait 
 for a wind, to run us over the bar. Here we found the remains of 
 a battery, which had been I'aifed to anfwer the caftle on the op^ 
 pofite fliore ; and it feems almofl: impracticable for any hoftile 
 vefTels that can enter this river, to have palled between them. We 
 found feveral brafs cannon fcattered up and down the beach, of 
 very antient conftru6lion ; but the bore of them is too narrow to 
 engage with the artillery of theprefent times. Arbut is the laft 
 town on the Nile, and the country about it affords little elfe than 
 
 date-
 
 [ 3^1 ] 
 
 date-trees, under the fliade of which we rambled about during our 
 ftay here. 
 
 At ten o'clock a breeze of wind fpringing up.tve repaired abo-ard, 
 hoifted our fails, and flood for the bar. The river increafed all 
 at once in its breadth ; the ftream began to be confiderably agi- 
 tated ; and we had approached within a mile of the bar, when the 
 wind perverfely came ahead, and obliged the whole fleet to run 
 under the fhore of Delta. The land here has quite loft its fertile 
 appearance. No more the earth fmiles with the plenteous harveft ; 
 no more the embowering fhades half conceal the ruftic hamlet. 
 The ground is thinly covered with brufh-wood, while the fhore 
 of the peninfula is interrupted with frequent hillocks of fand. 
 While we were kept here, our fervants drelTed us fome pigeons, 
 which we had procured at Arbut ; and the eating of our dinner 
 helped us to pafs away the vexatious moments of delay. 
 
 More vefTels now joined us from Rofetto. This was the part 
 in which the difficulty of our voyage wholly lay. If the wind 
 continued as it was, we might remain here for a day ; and, for 
 our confolation, we were told of boats that had experienced worfe 
 luck. The profpect was not tlie moft flattering, and we were 
 about to wifh ourfelves on the road over the defart to Alexandria, 
 notwithftanding the perils which awaited it, when the wind lucki- 
 ly veered to the eaftward of north, and permitted us to lay up well 
 to our point. We immediately availed ourfelves of it, and thir- 
 ty-five fail of us flood for the bogage or bar, which we reached 
 about one o'clock. There is a boat conftantly at anchor in mid- 
 channel, to direft others through this hazardous place. The waves' 
 ran pretty high, and it was our fortune to ftrike the bank thrde of 
 four times fuccefTively, in performing this pafTage. The fliocks 
 were very fmart ; but as our boat was light, and the wind fair, 
 we were threatened with no abfolute danger. Though the gale 
 began to frelhen, and we were obliged to tack twice to fetch the 
 
 3 A channel.
 
 [ 362 ] 
 
 channel, we got clear of the bogage in about tea minutes. This 
 was no trifling piece of good luck, if it be confidered, that vefl'els 
 are fometimes fixorfeven hours beating over this bar, and obli- 
 ged to unlade their cargoes into the pilot-boat, in order to lighten 
 themfelves. Had we been coming into the river at this time, the 
 accident would, in all probability, have been of a ferious nature. 
 The conteft between the wind and the current, which fet us out 
 fo faft, muft be always very violent, and occafion a fea, which . 
 would inevitably flave any vcffel, that is unfortunate enough to 
 ftrike the bottom. 
 
 The Mediterranean-fea was now before us. The goal to which 
 our earneft looks had been fo long turned, was now happily at- 
 tained, and we hoped, foon to refpire freely after a courfe, run 
 with peril, and vion with labor. Like the Heed who approaches 
 his forfaken paftures, we fnuffed in imagination our native air, 
 and every pulfe beat quicker with the thoughts of home. The 
 Nile throws himfelf with fuch an impetuofity into this fea, tliat 
 Neptune feems to flirink before his might at this feafon. For a 
 league and more from the bar, the water retains its chryftal hue 
 and frefli quality, of which we convinced ourfelves by an expe- 
 riment. We now flood to the fouth-weft, in company with the 
 whole fleet. The fea was fmooth, and the light barks glibly 
 flcimmed the furface. At two o'clock we began to open a bay 
 to our left, which forms the peninfula where Canopus once ftood, 
 and behind which we faintly difcerned the groves of Rofetto. The 
 waves now were confiderably raifed, and our veflel's motion en- 
 creafed. But the wind continued fair, and we ran brilkly by a 
 fandy, but not a defart coafl:. Date-trees rear their heads behind 
 the fteepy beach, and many of the eminences are crowned with 
 the auguft^ ruins of ancient caftles. At five in the evening we 
 found ourfelves oppofite to the town of Vickeiie, where theie is a 
 large caflle in good repair, and a light-houfe for the diredlion of 
 JO mariners.
 
 [ 363 1 
 
 manners. '"Hefe a'garri'lbn is conftantly maintained for the de- 
 fence of the coaft, which is fometimes infulted by Greek corfairs, 
 and the gallies of Malta. This is a confiderable head-land, and 
 there are feveral fmall iflands lying off it. We once more got hit 
 with the land, and fmoothed our water very effe6lually. We de- 
 fcried feveral fail to the northward, and made the hull of a large 
 three-mafted veffel. We were the beft failor in the fleet, and got 
 fo much'ahead, that at fun-fet, our people could diflinguifli the 
 point behind which Alexandria ftands. The coaft here is veiy 
 low, and offers nothing pleafing to the eye. At eight o'clock we 
 could fee the lights in the harbor. The night was dark, and wc 
 loft the opportunity of beholding the city from this point of view. 
 At nine we anchored within fifty yards of the fhore, and fent 
 Ibrahim afhore with Monfieur Meillon, to find out the gentleman 
 to whom we are recommended by Mr. Baldwin. We were pre- 
 paring to take up our lodging in the boat for the night, when, 
 juft before ten o'clock, Ibrahim returned with Signior Brandi 
 himfelf, who politely came for us at that late hour. We left our 
 fervants on board with our baggage, and accompanied that gen"- 
 tleman to an hte/, which has been lately fet up for the recep- 
 tion of ftrangers. Here we fupped comfortably, and enjoyed a 
 
 found repofe after our tedious palfage from Rofetto. 
 
 ■ • f - , . ■ , 
 
 SUNDAY, 28th September. 
 
 ■*'-We rofe betimes this morning, and fent for our baggage and 
 fervants. The houfe we are in is roomy and convenient ; and was 
 originally the Englifti faftory, when we had a conful here. Our 
 hoft is a mafter taylor, and feems to be an inoff'enfive Italian. His 
 wife is a Greek woman from Smyrna, talks French and Italian, 
 and promifes to render our fituation eafy during our ftay here. 
 We are to pay two dollars per diem each, for our bed and board ; a 
 price, indeed, rather extravagant, but fettled in the beft manner 
 
 3 A 2 by
 
 [ 3^4 ] 
 
 by-Mf,; Baldwin's agent, for the convenience of EngUftx tra- 
 veUevs^^-, ^. 
 
 We walked out after breakfaft, to take a view of the antient 
 port and city of Alexandria. We were attended by a Janizary in .-^ 
 the Englifli pay, whom it is neceflary to have, both as a guide and 
 a proteclor from the infults of the vulgar. Agreeably to the cuf- 
 toms of this place, we had refumed the European drefs, difcarded 
 our whilkers, and once more looked and moved with freedom and 
 eafe. We went diieflly to the fea-fide, to examine the Turkilh 
 haven, which hes to the wellvvard of the pharos, and is perfectly 
 fccure for fhipping when it blows a gale of wind. But this haven 
 is facred to the Turks, who are unfeeling enough to forbid Chrif- 
 tian velTels taking refuge in it, even when it is impoflible foe j| 
 them to remain infafety in the common harbor. The melancholy fj 
 confequences of this reftri6lion have appeared more than once. 
 Particularly in the year 1767, when forty velTels of different na-» , 
 tions foundered, or ran afhore in the common harbor, during a 
 violent ftonn from the north-eaft quarter. But in fpite of this 
 ordinance, Chrillian vellels will prefume at times to peep into this 
 port ; and it is not a fortnight fmce a Maltefe privateer chafed a 
 Turkiih fliip of much fuperior force under the very battery of the 
 pharos, and gave her a parting broadfide as fhe ran into the road. 
 A Turkifli man of war of fixty guns was then at anchor herejf;-, 
 and, either through want of alertnefs or refolution, did not at- 
 tempt to revenge the infult. This man of war is ftiil here, and . 
 tliere are feveral frigates on this flation for the protection of the 
 
 trade. _ cl 
 
 ■ We now went into the dock-yard, to lee a very bad fpecimen of 
 their ikill in (liip-buiiding. Here we perceived a party of females 
 ftanding on the beach, ready to be embarked in a boat for Cairo. 
 They proved to be Greek flaves, juft brought from the, ArchijiCtp 
 kgo, and going as aprefent to the bey of Cairo. This informa-, 
 
 tion
 
 [ 365 ] 
 
 tioni we obtained from our Janizary, who, at onr requeft, entet-ed 
 into conrerfation with their guard. The poor creatures feemed 
 infenfible of their fituation, which, in fome meafure, fupprelTed 
 the emotions we underwent at the firft knowledge of their deftiny. 
 They turned towards us as we approached them -, and in fpite of 
 their vails we could perceive, by their fine eyes, and their admir- 
 able forms, that they were objects unfit to be fecluded from the 
 fight of the world. This fudden motion, and the involuntary fur- 
 prize which they betrayed at the novelty of our habit, awakened 
 the jealoufy of their keepers, who immediately hurried them into 
 the boat that was waiting for them. The price of fuch girls is 
 from four hvandred to a thoufand zechins ; and their value is en- 
 hanced, as much in proportion to their qualifications, as the 
 beauties they poflefs. To what a ftate of degeneracy is the world 
 fallen, when wit, accomplifliments, and beauty, are put up to fale 
 among the female tribe, in the fame manner as ftrength and me- 
 chanic fkill in the negroes of Africa! The latter branch of com- 
 merce is indeed an impeachment on humanity ; but the former is 
 a difgrace to the nature and tendency of the finer pafTions. 
 
 Alexandria, or Scanderie as the Turks call it, lies in the la- 
 titude of 31° 11' north, on a rifing ground, which defcends with 
 an eafy flope towards the fea, and defcribes a femicircle, with the 
 cafl:le on the eaftern, and the pharos on the weftern point. In 
 this bay the foreign fliipping lay, and range themfelves abreaft of 
 the pier which joins the pharos to the continent, according to 
 their arrival. This ftation they chufe on account of its greater 
 fecurity, as the pier breaks the force of the fea, which tumbles in 
 from the eaftward. The fea waflies the wails of the houfes, and 
 the refrefiTiing breezes which come from it, contribute much to the 
 liealthinefs of the place. The prefent city feems to Hand in one 
 quarter of the old, and does not take up one eighth part of the 
 ground, which may be afcertained by the antient vvalls^'that ftill 
 7 remain.
 
 [ 366 1 
 
 reniaiA. -It is reckoned tocontain thirty thoufand inhabitants of 
 all nations ; and a greater medley were never' yet affembled toge^- 
 ther. Gain is the lure which draws thera to this mart ; tli& 
 maflers of which are the only people who derive no folid advan-. 
 tage from the connedtion. 
 
 , I could dwell with pleafure on the minute antiquities of this 
 • well-known fpotj were they not already defcribcd with fuch pre- 
 cifion and elegance, in a work lately publiflied, as to leave a 
 future traveller little to fay that can be new, and lefs that, he 
 can hope will equal the manner of fo agreeable an author^ 
 This work was originally printed in German, and has fmce been 
 tranflated into French, and is the produdlion of Mr. Niebuhr, 
 who made the tour of Lower Egypt and Arabia, by the command 
 of his Danifli Majefty. I mean to touch, however, on the moft re- 
 markable obje6ls of our refearch ; as to obferve a profound filenca 
 on/o curious a theme, would be an infult on the tafte and learrt-*^ 
 ing of the reader. • , 
 
 We dined in company with a genteel young Swifs, who is on 
 his way to India. He is to embark on the firft boat for Cairo, 
 where he means to take his paffage on our lliipping. It was with 
 no fmall fatisfaftion that we replied to his queries of a journey, fo 
 new to him, and of a country in which we had fpent fo many 
 years. lie was rather mortified, however, when he underftood 
 there were none of our veffels at Suez, nor after their arrival, 
 that would fail for India before the next fummer. 
 
 MONDAY, 29th September. 
 
 We were introduced to-day by Signior Brandi to the French 
 conful. He appears to be a well-bred fenfible man, and is well 
 fpoken of by our companion Monfieur Meillon, who takes up his 
 lodgings at the French fa6tory. He is but lately arrived here, 
 
 and
 
 [ 367 ] 
 
 and. has his curiofity to fatisfy as much as we. We accompa- 
 nied him in a walk to fome of the adjacent ruins. We pafled by 
 the Venetian fadlory, which ftands next to the French. This is 
 a very handfome building, and makes a much greater fhow than 
 any of the foreign fa6lories. Our road lay over a fandy plain, 
 where feveral granite pillars of a prodigious length, are fcattered 
 up and down. They feem to have been brought here with an ' 
 intention of being ufed, which has been afterwards given up. 
 When we had croffed this plain, we went under an arched 
 gateway, which, perhaps, marked one of the divifions of the 
 antient city. To the fouth of it lies a lofty tower in a ruinous 
 condition. It is furrounded by an high wall, and within, there 
 is a grove of date-trees. Here the antiquities commence. 
 ^ With what concern muft the informed fpeclator view the remains 
 of fo celebrated a place ! With what regret muft he look back on its 
 former beauty and pride, and draw a comparifon with its prefent 
 poverty and decline ! I hope it will not be confidered as a piece of 
 affe6tation in any one to declare, that he cannot behold fuch fights 
 as thefe with an even mind. The deftruftion of renowned cities 
 is a baneful profpeft to the eye ; and the fufceptible breaft is 
 filled with the fame fenfations in contemplating their decay, as 
 touch it at the appearance of a venerable charaifter in diftrefsi 
 whom it is beyond the ability of man to relieve. We fooa came 
 tlQk an antient temple, a part of which is ftill habitable, and has 
 \}^en long appropriated to the fervice of Mahomet. On this ac- 
 count, we found fome difficulty to obtain admittance. But the 
 key was at length procured by our Janizary, and we were Ihcwn 
 into the negle6led quarter. This is a fquare of very large dia- 
 meter, which is furrounded with triple rows of granite pillars 
 of the Corinthian order. Thefe pillars are lofty, and fupport a 
 roof which is ftill in a good ftate of prefervation. 
 
 The infide of the walls of this temple is inlaid with tables- of' 
 
 maible
 
 1[ ^68 ] 
 
 marble of various colors, which, for their richnefs and novelty, 
 cannot but engage the admiration of a ftranger. In the area of 
 the fquare is a ftone clftern of very antique mould. It is' in- 
 fcribed on all fides with hieroglyphics, and from a rail which 
 cnclofed it, appears to have ferved for fome religious purpofe. 
 
 From hence we walked through a field of antiquities to a 
 convent, which maintains four Francifcan friars. The building 
 is fimple, and fuited to the charafter of its founders. Here we 
 found about an acre of ground, very neatly difpofed of. The 
 foil was naturally fterile, but by the induftry of thefe holy fa- 
 thers, produces vegetables in great abundance. They have a 
 vineyard in fome forwardnefs ; and with no fmall labor and 
 perfeverance, have funk a refervoir to fupply the garden with 
 water, which is conveyed thither from a neighboring aqueduft. 
 Thefe innocent creatures were diverting themfelves at nine-pins, 
 and carried a content in their looks, which feemed to fet the 
 cares and the vanities of the world equally at defiance. The 
 evening was advanced, and we returned towards the city. In the 
 way we were overtaken by a fliower of rain. This was fuch a 
 novelty to us, who had not feen rain for fix months pafi:, that 
 we enjoyed it in the higheft degree ; and were the only perfons 
 in company, who would not have difpenfed with getting wet to 
 the fkin. 
 
 The ihower was flight, ho\vever, and we arrived at the French 
 factory without any damage. The conful now introduced us 
 to his lady, who is a pretty fprightly woman. We readily com- 
 plied with an invitation from her to play at cards, and fpend 
 the evening in her company. It was many months fince we 
 had feen a female, whofe drefs and manners refembled thofe of 
 our own countrywomen. She appears not to have any great 
 relifti for her fituation, which, to one of her vivacity, muft be 
 dull enough. Indeed, the difpofition of the people (he is among, 
 
 may
 
 [ 369 ] 
 
 ^^ay have occafioned her difguft to this country. The French 
 conful loft his Hfe here from a barbarous principle of revenge, 
 about eighteen months ago; and her hufband was appointed 
 to fucceed him. This would be a fufficient motive for a wo- 
 man's fears. The particulars of this tragical ftory I will relate 
 hereafter. 
 
 TUESDAY, 30th Seftember. 
 
 We breakfafted this morning on board the French (hip, whicli 
 Mr. Baldwin had recommended to us for a pallage to France, 
 She is called the Cleopatra, and is a new, pretty, and commodious 
 
 ^:veffel. We have agreed with the Captain, Monfieur Calvi, to 
 give him 133 crowns each for our paffage, which is indeed a 
 large fum in thefe feas. But the gentlemen from India are al- 
 
 ..jkvays confidered as monied men, and are taxed accordingly, 
 whether they travel this way for pleafure, or are charged with 
 bufmefs of a public nature. We find, however, that we fhall 
 be accommodated in the moft elegant manner ; and we muft 
 do Captain Calvi the juftice to fay, that he ilated his intentions 
 of providing us with a plentiful table, and fubmitted the price to 
 our generofity. On our return from the Cleopatra, v/e pafled 
 vinder the fterns of feveral merchantmen of different nations. 
 
 jvThere were but two Englifli vellels in the number, one of which 
 is freighted by Mr, Baldv/in for Conftantinople. 
 
 ...- In the afternoon a lai-ge party of us fallied out to take a view 
 of Pompey's pillar, the theme of the prefent age, and the admira- 
 tion of paft times ! Befides my companions and myfelf, we were 
 joined by the two Englifli commanders of the fliips in the har- 
 bour, and by Monfieur Meillon, and fome young gentlemen of 
 the French fadory. We mounted the firft affes that prefented 
 themfelves for hire, and, attended by our Janizary, took the 
 <,, ^ B courfe
 
 [ 37^ ] 
 courfe we purfued yefterday. We left the convent on our right, 
 and prefently came among broken arclies and long pavements, 
 which are the remains of an aquedaft. Several towers reared up 
 their difmantled heads on each fide of us, whofe ap|5earance pro- 
 tiounces them to have been pofts of great importance and ftrength. 
 A number of ftately pillars next engaged our attention. Thev 
 are placed in two parallel lines, and feem to have fornr>erly fup- 
 ported fome magnificent portico. The pillars are of granite, or 
 Thebaic marble, and about thirty feet high of a fingle ftone ^ and 
 Ave counted no lefs than thirtv of them ftill ilandins;. But how- 
 ever choice thefe columns might be in any other place, they were 
 but foils to the pillar which now appeared before us. We had 
 been buried amid the ruins and the hills of fand, which the winds 
 have thrown up, when, leaving the city by the gate of Rofetto, 
 we came unexpedledly upon the pillar. It is impoflible to tell 
 'Vvhich is moft worthy of admiration, the height, the workman- 
 fhip, or the condition of this pillar. By the befl accounts we can 
 obtain, it is an hundred and ten feet high. The fhaft, which is of a 
 fingle ftone of granite, is ninety feet, and the pedeftal is twenty 
 more. It is of the Corinthian order, which gives a beautiful dig- 
 nity to its fimplicity, rarely to be met with in modern architec- 
 ture. It has fuffered little or no injuiy from time. The polifh 
 upon the (haft has wonderfully withftood the buffeting of the 
 tempeft -, and it promifes to hand down a patriot name to the late 
 pofterity of the ignorant native, who has no other trace of the fame 
 of Pompey ! The pedeftal has been fomewhat damaged by the in- 
 ftruments of travellers, who are curious to poffefs a relic of this 
 antiquity j and one of the volutes of the column was immaturely 
 brought down about four years ago, by a prank of fome Englifh 
 ■iiaptain, which is too ludicrous to pafs over. 
 'i' Thefe jolly fens of Neptune had been puftiing about the Can 
 en board one of the fiiips in the harbor, until a ftrange freak en- 
 tered
 
 [ 371 ] 
 tered into one of their brains. The eccenfricity of the thought 
 occafioned it immediately to be adopted ; and its apparent impof- 
 fibility was but a fpur for the putting it into execution. The 
 boat was ordered, and with proper implements for the attempt, 
 thefe enterprizing heroes puflied alhore, to drink a bowl of punch 
 on the top of Pompey's pillar ! At the fpot they arrived ; and 
 many contrivances were propofed to accomplifh the defired point- 
 But their labor was vain ; and they began to defpair of fuccefs, 
 when the genius who rtruck out the frolic, happily fuggefted the 
 means of performing it. A man was difpatched to the city for a 
 paper kite. The inhabitants were by this time apprized of what 
 was going forward, and flocked in crouds to be witneffes of the 
 addrefs and boldnefs of the Englifli. The governor of Alexandria 
 was told that thefe feamen were about to pull down Pompey's 
 pillar. But whether he gave them credit for their refpeft to the 
 Roman warrior, or to the Turkifli government, he left them to 
 themfelves, and politely anfwered, that the Englifli were too great 
 patriots to injure the remains of Pompey. He knew little, how- 
 ever, of the difpofition of the people who were engaged in this 
 undertaking. Had the Turkilli empire rofe in oppofition, it 
 would not, perhaps, at that moment have deterred them. The 
 jkite was brought, and flown fo diredly over the pillar, that when, 
 it fell on the other fide, the firing lodged upon the capital. The 
 chief obftaclc was now overcome. A two-inch rope was tied to 
 one end of the firing, and drawn over the pillar by the end to 
 which the kite was affixed. By this rope one of the feamen af- 
 cended to the top, and in lefs than an hour, a kind of fliroud was 
 conftrufted, by which the whole company went up, and drank 
 their punch amid the flionts of the aftonillied multitude. To tlic 
 eye below, the capital of the pillar does not appear capable of hold- 
 . ing more than one man vipon it ; but our feamen found it could 
 contain no lefs than eight perfons very conveniently. . It is afto- 
 
 3 B 2 nifliing
 
 [ 372 ] 
 
 niiliitig that x^o accident befei thefe madcaps,' in a fituatlon fo 
 elevated, that would have turned a landman giddy in his fober 
 fenfes. The only detriment which the pillar received, was the 
 lois of the volute before-mentioned ; which came down with a 
 thundering found, and was carried to England by one of the cap-!-- 
 tains, as a prefent to a lady who commiifioned him for. a piece of 
 the pillar. The difcovery which they made, amply compenfated 
 for this mifchief ; as without their evidence, the world would not 
 have known at this hour, that there was originally a- flatue on 
 this pillar, one foot and ancle of v/hich are Itill remaining. 
 The ftatlue was, probably, of Pompey himfelf; and mull have 
 been of a gigantic fize, to have appeared of a man's propoft-i 
 tion at fo great an height. u'l 
 
 There are circuraflances in this llory which might give it 
 an air of fiftion, were it not demonurated beyond all doubts. 
 Befides the tellimonies of many eye-witnefl'es, the adventurers 
 themfelves have left us a token of the fact, by the initials of 
 their names, which are very legible in black paint jull: beneath 
 the capital. We fpent fo much time in viewing this elegant 
 column, that the evening was too far advanced for us to go 
 further. After providing ourfelves with a relic of this fliiine, 
 w«rreturned towards the port, which is about a mile and a 
 quarter diifant. In our way we mounted an eminence, which 
 has been thrown up by the Turks in digging for antiques,- 
 which are frequently found here. From hence we had a fine 
 view of the new and old city and port of Alexandria. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, ift October. 
 
 t\i had a prefent of an antique this morning from Signior 
 
 Brandi. .It i^a blue ftone which bears the head of a Jupiter Ca?^ 
 
 pitolinuj. Thefmall colle(5lion which I have made, is not worth 
 
 iQ prefenting
 
 [ 373 ] 
 preferring to the reader, though the place from which I c!iie% 
 drew them, is a proof of their being originals : as neither the 
 Ikill nor the remotenefs of the country of Upper Egypt, can favor 
 deceit in fuch matters. But a ilranger (hould be very careful how 
 he makes thefe purchafes in Alexandria. Seals have been tendered 
 me for fale, which had all the appearance of antiquity; but on 
 the infpeftion of a perfon converfaiit in virtii, turned ovit to 
 be copies. They are, however, at times, in great plenty in this 
 neighborhood. The people who follow this trade, hit per- 
 chance upon a mine of curiofities, when a virtuofi might fur- 
 nilli a cabinet with originals at a fmall expence. This we 
 faw exemplified. Signior Brandi lives with the Genoefe con- 
 ful, Signior Agoftini. At his houfe we met with feveral anti-. 
 qtiities, which have been recovered from the ruins of this city. 
 Among the moft remarkable is a bull of Alexander, finely 
 executed and but little damaged. t 
 
 In the afternoon we went to fee Cleopatra's Needle, which. lies 
 to the eaftward of the city. We again mounted our afles, and, 
 without any other company than our Janizary, arrived in about 
 ten minutes at the Needle. It is almoft clofe to the lea, and lifts 
 up its head amid an heap of ruins, which appear to have been a 
 circle of magnificent buildings tliat furrounded it. It is faid, 
 there were originally three obclilks which bore this name; and 
 that one of them has been buried by its own weight, and the ri- 
 fing of the fand about it. It is certain, however, that two of 
 them once ftood here at about fifty yards afunder. One of them 
 was torn up by the roots in a violent fliorm fome years ago, and 
 ** prone on the ground \\Q^ groveling many a rood." Thefe obc- 
 lifks are alfo of granite, which is the marble peculiar to this place. 
 They are of a fingie ftone, fixty feet in length, and covered on 
 all fides with hieroglyphics. The one which is Handing, yields 
 only in beauty to Pompey's pillar, among the remains of this au-
 
 U 374 V 
 
 gufl: city ; anJ it is a wonder that no attempt has been made to 
 tranfport the fallen Needle to Europe ; a fiinilar enterprize to 
 which was effefted, I think, in the removal of Trajan's pillar, 
 the greateft boaft of modern Rome. "What a beautiful terminay 
 tion would it make to one of the viftos at Chatfworth ! What a 
 noble addition would it prove to the coUeflion at Stowe ! But the 
 expence would be too heavy for any, but a princely purfe to dif- 
 charge, as the relic would be too valuable for any, but a monarch 
 to poffefs. For a drawing of this obelifk, as well as of Pompey's * 
 pillar, I muft refer the reader to the work of Mr. Niebuhr, and 
 to the drawings of Mr. Dalton. The few plates which I have 
 ventured to give, contain views of fuch things only as are not, 
 to my knowledge, to be met with in other travels. 
 
 We contemplated this obelilk with pleafure, and left it with 
 regret. While we looked at the ruins around us, we could not 
 but fancy ourfelves carried back to the times of the Ptolemies. 
 Here Anthony revelled ; here Cleopatra reigned ! Here beauty 
 fhed her rofy fmiles ; here pleafure danced an eternal round ; and 
 here, alas ! the hero forewent empire and life for the fafcinating 
 charms of love ! Some hundreds of yards from the fpot we had 
 left, is an angle of the antient walls of the city. Thefe walls are 
 itill above the level of the ground, and the ditch* is ftill to be dif- 
 tinguKhed. This is the eaftern face, and at certain equidiftancesj 
 there were round towers for the better prote6lion of the walls.* 
 We entered the tower at the angle, which appeared to be lefs de- 
 cayed than the reft. There is a circular room in the middle, 
 v^^ich at prefent goes up to the top of the tower : But by a nar- 
 
 - * Tht^ author has given a view of this pillar in the frontifpiece to his Eaftei-p 
 Eclogues; but a more competent idea can be gathered of it in a collection of prints^ 
 pitVliflicd by the ingenious Mr. Dalton in the year 1752, comprizing, among other 
 antiquities, the clevatioiis and fcftions of the pyramids of.E^ypt, which mull have 
 been a tafk not Icis diriicult than curious. "' 
 
 •j;u3 row
 
 [' 375 ] 
 
 row ftaircafe on one fide of it, there is- a likelihood of there ha- 
 ving been apartments above. We made a tour of tliis face, and 
 on our return home, vifited the church of St. Catherine belong- 
 ing to the Greeks. Here one of the friars led us into a re- 
 cefs illuminated with a lamp, to fee the ftone on which St. Ca- 
 therine was beheaded. This ftone is held in uncommon venera- 
 tion ; and the fathers are very anxious to perfuade ftrangers, that 
 drops of her blood are ftill vifible thereon. They were under no 
 danger of having this opinion contradiiSled, through the abun- 
 dance of our zeal ; but they were, perhaps, more pleafcd, that we 
 had charity enough to leave fome filver among them, towards th^, 
 propagation of this innocent impofition . , .,,..-, 
 
 THURSDAY, 2d October. 
 
 Intelligence came this morning of the lofs of five boats on the 
 bogagc, or bar of the Nile, which were among a fleet that 
 failed two days ago for Rofetto. The young Swifs whom I have 
 before fpoken of, was unluckily on board one of them ; and we 
 learn with concern, that he has efcaped only witii his life. 
 If the reader, however, remembers our defcription of that place, 
 it may feem a greater mercy to him, that the young man did not 
 perifli with his effefls. The wind blowing in the teeth of ^ rapid 
 current, muft have occafioned a prodigious fwell on the bar, 
 which generally proves as fatal to the mariner as to his barkw 
 The French merchants of this city are faid to be confiderable 
 fufferers by this accident j as they had very rich bales of goods 
 on the boats which are wrecked. But the misfortune of the 
 young Swifs chiefly engaged our attention. Our minds yet 
 fmarted with the remembrance of our ov/n diftrefles j and we 
 were, perhaps, never in a difpofition to have contributed more 
 largely, than we now did, towards the relief of a fellow-crea- 
 ture.
 
 [ n^ ] 
 
 ture. So true it is, that calamity is the befl phyfician to men-i 
 tal infirmities, and difpofes the paflions to liften more ferloufly 
 to the calls of humanity. 
 
 ,It is laughable enough, to obferve the materials and faftiion of 
 the generality of the buildings of this city. Marble ready wrought 
 to the hand, is in fuch profufion here, that in every flreet you 
 meet with the noble fragments of palaces and temples, applied to 
 the meancft purpofes. I have feen a ftable fupported by pillars of 
 the finell granite, -and a cow-houfe paved with the moft beautiful 
 tablets of marble. This view, indeed, is more likely to provoke a 
 figh than a fmile. It too nearly refembles the prophecy denoun- 
 ced againil that fplendid city, whofe regal edifices were to becorrie 
 the habitations of the hearts of the field. But our ridicule is di- 
 recled againfi: another objecl. The court-yards of the foreign 
 fattories are encompafled with the choiceft pillars that could be 
 prociued ; but the confufion of orders, in which the Doric, Io- 
 nic, and Corinthian jar together, joined to the unequal height 
 and diameter of the fliafts, rather render the whole a ludicrous 
 than an agreeable affemblage. But as the builders have had coil-' 
 venience more than elegance in view, the want of tafte in the dif- 
 pofition is the more excufable. 
 
 We took a ride in the evening to the canal which was brought 
 from the Nile, and ftill fupplies the city with water. Our route 
 lay through a road which leads to the S. E. gate, and divides the 
 antient city into two equal parts. This is the high road to Ro- 
 fetto, on which travellers are accuftomed to go on mules, in pre- 
 ference to the dangerous paflage by fea. The journey is performed 
 in izszw or eight hours, and it is reported that the oblirudtion to it 
 is now removed, by the gallantry of a Turk, who was attacked 
 yerterday by the Bedouins, or wild Arabs, that have lately infefled 
 the countiy. The captain of the gang was luckily fliot by.tl^e 
 Xurkr#,;3n4i his >^dherents have fled to other parts. Wp. arrived
 
 [ 377 ] 
 
 m about half an hour at the gate. It has been a very fuperb 
 work, and there are ftill two columns, which fupport the pedeftal 
 above it, of the moft beautiful fymmetry and defign. The canal 
 is about a quarter of a mile from hence. It ftill ferves the chief 
 purpofe for which it was intended ; and, in the floods, conveys a 
 fufficient quantity of water to the city, to fill the ciflerns for the 
 ufe of the enfuing year. This expenfive labor was neceflary ta 
 reflify the defe6t \yith which this thirfty foil is curft, and is in 
 every refpeiSt worthy of its fuppofed founder. But the channel a 
 few miles above is fo choaked up, as to render it no longer na- 
 vigable for the fmallell boats, except for a week or two in the 
 year. There is a large arch thrown over this canal, which ap- 
 pears firm enough to admit of repair. Neither the bridge nor 
 canal, however, have a chance to be reftored to their former con- 
 dition by the indolent and illiberal Turk ; although, comparative- 
 ly fpeaking, an inconfiderable expenee would be the means of re- 
 viving, in their full extent, thefe elegant and ferviceable works of 
 antiquity. On the banks of this canal are raifed the vegetables, 
 with which the city is fuppliedj and beyond them the defart 
 ftretches to the Nile. 
 
 On our return home we made a tour of the weflern wall of the 
 antient city, which we had not before feen. There are towers 
 upon it as on the other fide, and the wall has more frequent 
 breaches in it. 
 
 ornioif 
 
 FRIDAY, 3d October. 
 
 I employed myfelf this morning in tranfcribing an ode, which I 
 had written in detached parts, during our voyage down the Nile.- 
 The reader will find it in the Appendix, where it will appear as a 
 companion to the ode to the defart. He may, perhaps, fufpedl me 
 of another reafon than what I before alkdgcd, for not mingling 
 
 3 C poetry
 
 l[Q:378 ] 
 
 poetry and profe, for putting it in that place. The contraft be- 
 tween the fubjefts is fo ftriking, as to fet the defcriptive paflages 
 of either piece in the beft light. 
 
 Nothing retards our departure but the veffel's difpatches, which 
 are not arrived from Cairo. For fear of my being hereafter pre- 
 vented, I will here communicate the ftory of the French conful's 
 murder, fome circumftances of which are of an extraordinary na- 
 ture, and will ferve to juftify the unfavorable idea which is enter- 
 tained of the Arabians, in different parts of this w^ork. 
 
 Three young gentlemen belonging to the French fa6lory had 
 been out in the country (hooting pigeons. They were met on 
 their return by fome Arabs, who, with their ufual impudence to 
 Chriftians whom they fuppofe to be in their power, demanded 
 their guns. Thefe the Frenchmen naturally refufed to deliver 
 up J and a ftruggle enfuing, in which they were likely to be over- 
 come by numbers, one of them levelled his piece, and fliot an 
 Ai-ab dead on the fpot. The unexpe6lednefs of this adlion ftruck' 
 fuch a terror into the reft, that they immediately difperfed, and left' 
 the young men to make the beft of their way off. This they ef- 
 fefted, but with different fortunes. The guilty perfon knew 
 there was no fafety for him in Alexandria, although the life had 
 been taken away in defence of his property, againft an hoftile af- ' 
 fault. He bent his way, therefore, to a village on the fea-fide, 
 and, without fufpicion, hired a mule for Rofetto. Here he ar- 
 rived with great expedition, and embarked on a boat which was 
 that moment going for Damiat. Happily for him, when he 
 reached that city, there was a veflel under way for Conftanti- 
 nople, in which he efcaped from the deftiny that awaited him. 
 One of his companions concealed himfelf in this city, until he 
 found an opportunity to quit it, which his knowledge of the 
 language enabled him to do in fafety. The other took refuge in 
 the French fadlory ; the fuppofed fanitity of which, he vainly 
 
 imagined
 
 [ 379 ] 
 
 imagined would protect him from the refentment of the Arabs. 
 Though he was only a fpe6lator of the accident which had hap- 
 pened,, he was doomed to anfwer for it in the moft inhuman 
 manner. The city was prefently in commotion } and a mob, 
 headed by the comrades of the deceafed, forced open the gates of 
 the faclory. after having been denied admittance by the conful, 
 took out the unfortunate youth who remained, and hung him 
 upon the firft tree they met with. Not fatisfied with this facrifice, 
 they afterwards cut him in pieces, and expofed his limbs in diffe- 
 rent quarters of the city. 
 
 Here one might think the vengeance of a barbarian would ftop. 
 With fuch a retaliation, that, confounding as it did the innocent 
 with the guilty, is fo agreeable to their notions of jufUce, the 
 Arabs might be fatistied. But their thirft for blood was not yet 
 quenched. As the;murderer had efcaped, they turned their rage 
 againll the innocent man, who had prefumed to afford his ac- 
 complice a fanftuarj. Aware of the unforgiving difpofitions of 
 the Arabs, the conful had confined himfelf to his houfe for the 
 fpace of two months, and upwards. He now thought the matter 
 was forgotten, and ventured out as ufual to take the. air on an 
 afs, along with the Janizary of his nation. This Janizary is 
 efteemed here a fufficient fafeguard. He may be fo on common 
 occafions, but his authority failed him on this. They were met 
 by a man near Pompey's Pillar, who, with feeming indifference, 
 enquired the conful's name of the Janizary ; and being fatisfied 
 it was the perfon he fought, he ftepped fuddeniy behind him, and 
 difcharged a piftol in his back. The ball went through the con- 
 ful's body, and he immediately expired. Thus lofing, like the 
 hero near whofe column he fell, his life by the treachery of the 
 Egyptian race ' The affafiln efcaped during the Janizary's cori- 
 fufion, and no notice was taken by the government of fuch an . 
 outrage. The French confulted their own dignity^ as well as the 
 
 3 C 2 intereils
 
 [ 38o J 
 
 'interefts of other nations, when they Tent two frigates this fummer 
 to demand fatisfaftion. But whether the force was inadequate, 
 or they have been tempted, by fome fecret advantages, to give up, 
 as they have done on many occafions, the honor and even fafety 
 of their minifters in Turkey, the frigates have departed, without 
 fuccefs in their negotiation. 
 
 SATURDAY, 4th October. 
 
 We were alarmed this morning with the report of a vefTel being 
 about to founder in the harbor. This carried us to the quay, 
 where we faw a Greek polacre go down in about half an hour. 
 It feems that fhe run upon the anchor of another veffel as fhe 
 came into the road, and the crew were glad to quit her with their 
 lives. It is furprizing that thefe accidents are not more frequent 
 in a port, where veflels are obliged to be always moored, on ac- 
 count of their infecure ftation. The water is fo fhallow when 
 the tide is out, that there would be no fleering clear of the anchors, 
 were not ilrangers apprized where they lie. What is done, there- 
 fore, in other places for the convenience of the owners, is here 
 enforced for the good of the public. And every veflel is obliged, 
 by an order at this port, to place buoys over her anchors. A failure 
 •^ifi this meafure fubje6ts her to the payment of any lofs fhe may 
 occafion. And, it is faid, the owners of the G reek polacre will 
 recover damages on this ground. 
 
 ^ As we were returning from the quay, we met a porter finking, 
 to all appearance, under a double bale of cotton. He wore jack- 
 boots, in order to keep his knees flraight, and walked doubled, with 
 his hands fupported on his knees. Were not the fa 61 vv^ell known 
 to thoufands who trade to the Levant, one would hefitate to men- 
 tion the enormous loads which the Turkifh porters carry. We 
 '^iW '^' 'tlie fcales where the bales were weighing, and faw one of 
 9 them
 
 [ 38i ] 
 
 them take a T)ale of 7 cwt. upon his back, and Hagger tinder It 
 to the quay. The dlftance, indeed, is not very great, and there 
 appears to be as much art as ftrength exercifed in thefe furpriz- 
 ing efforts of the bodily powers. I have heard more than once, 
 during my x'efidence in India, of the porters in Perfia behig fa- 
 mous for carrying a pipe of wine on their backs, which is mOiT 
 than 10 cwt. and, with the affiftance of a bamboo, or flick acrols 
 his fhoulders, a Chinefe at Canton is faid to fupport an equal bur- 
 den with more eafe to himfelf. It is only in countries, however, 
 where labourers of this kind are fcarce, that fuch vigour is defir- 
 able. In Paris or London, where profeflions are not hereditary, 
 and where every idler is willing to turn his hand to any thing, the 
 inconvenience of this monopoly would be felt. This ufeful 
 branch of labor would fink in its value, and crouds would lan- 
 guifli for want of employment. 
 
 We dined on board one of the Englifli fhips to-day, where 
 the departure of the French frigates without redrefs of their 
 complaint, became the fubjecl of converfation. It feems that 
 the French have been much animadverted upon by foreigners 
 here on this occafion ; and comparifons been drawn between 
 them and the Englifli, not to their advantage. Indeed, hiftory 
 furniflies many inftances of the oppofite behavior of both go- 
 vernments in fimilar cafes. Where one negotiates for a redrefs 
 of injuries, the other difpatches a fleet to command it. And 
 while one is wafliing time in unavailing threats, the other 
 employs more certain arguments of conviction with the Maho- 
 metan powers. But there is fomething very myfterious in this 
 procedure of a people, who, in other refpefls, are jealous of af- 
 fronts, and enamored of glory. The particular advantages whicli 
 they derive from the Turkey trade, feem to influence their ope- 
 rations in that quarter j and they aim at the prefervation of thofc 
 advantages, at the expence of tlieir national honor, AH Europe 
 
 is
 
 [ 382 ] 
 is, indebted to France, for the tiouble flie took irk fcouring the 
 Arcliipelfigo of the pirates which infefted it, after the clofe of the 
 Ruffian vyar. They were chiefly Greeks, and abounded in fuch 
 a degree, that not a merchantman efcs^ed being attacked by 
 them. The French frigates every where purfued them with mi- 
 remitting vigilance ; and to eradicate the evil effectually, ran 
 their barks down in general, without firing a gun. The good 
 confequences of thefe exertions foon appeared; and it is no- 
 torious, thnt there never was a time, in which the Mediterra- 
 nean, was fo free of corfairs of all denominations, as tha 
 prefent. 
 
 Captain Calvi introduced us in the evening to a Greek family, 
 which confiiled of a lady and her two daughters. The latter, 
 were very beautiful, but overloaded with a profufion of zechins 
 upon their heads and breafl:s, which w:ere ftrung together like 
 pearl *.. The eldeft of the daughters is married to a man now 
 in f'rance- She preffed our captain much for a pafTage. He is 
 fi|U; .but witli the gallantry of a Frenchman, placed his refufal 
 to a defire of preferving harmony among his pafiengers, which- 
 the influence of her charms could not fail to invade. The frank— 
 nefs and pleafantry of this Provencal are very engaging, and. 
 afford us a profpeft of much entertainment dming our 
 voyage. 
 
 T' SUNDAY, 5th October. 
 
 ji. 
 
 We attended the fervice this morning at the chapel of the Ge- 
 uoefe faftory, where we afterwards dined, on the invitation of. 
 
 * Among thefe I perceived a medal of Alexander the Great, in fine prefervation. 
 As the charaders were Roman, it was probably ftruck by one of the Casfars in 
 honor of that hero. I attempted, in vain, to place it among my fmall col- 
 
 Signior. 
 
 ;i;ir.'3!:3-
 
 [ 2h ] ' 
 
 Signlor Brandi. The conful is a polite chea'rful old gentleman 
 of feventy and upwards, and has ferved in that office with great 
 credit, for above thirty years. He is, however, too much of an 
 invalid to be able to attend to bufinefs, which is managed for 
 him by Signior Brandi, who is alfo agent to Mr. Baldwin. 
 
 We accompanied Signior Brandi in the evening to the Vene- 
 tian fadlory, where we drank coffee with an Italian lady who is 
 lodged there. From hence we fallied out to a garden, which is 
 about ten minutes walk from the city. This garden is thickly 
 planted with fruit-trees of various kinds, in which we found a 
 very agreeable relief from the fandy views, which every where 
 meet the eye in the environs of this place. Nothing but the 
 happinefs of its lituation for commerce, could have prompted 
 Alexander to have founded a city on this barren fpot. And the 
 rank it keeps among commercial cities at this hour, in fpite of 
 the revolutions it has feen in its religion, government, andcuftoms, 
 demonftrates the acutenefs of that monarch's difcernment. Tyrc, 
 Athens, and Carthage, are only to be refpe6ted in the page of 
 hiftory : while the port of Alexandria is ftill crouded with the 
 veflels of different nations ; and ftill difpenfes, though in a lels 
 degree, her bounty through the world. ^*"^ ^*^'^ 
 
 As we returned home we palTed the houfe of a fair Je^vefs, 
 whofe reputation is fpread about this city. It is her cuftom to 
 (hew herfelf daily at her window, to enfnare thofe who venture 
 to gaze upon her. It is affirmed that her charms made a very 
 fingular impreffion upon an Englifli nobleman, who came here 
 fome years ago. He bid very highly for her perfon, but was 
 difappointed in his views. The amour fomehovv got wind, arid' 
 fhe was honored by a wag with his title, which fhe has prefej:yed 
 to this day. ' -A 
 
 In a converfation with our Janizary this evening, vve difcd-*'' 
 vered that fear was one caufe of the diftindion, with which the" 
 
 3 Englifli
 
 [ 3h ] 
 
 Englifli are treated in this country. It Is many years fince the* 
 Englifh ti'ade has declined in the Levant. Their fhlps of war* 
 no more ride triumphant in thefe feas, and their thunders haVtf 
 long ceafed to ftrike terror through the coafts of Egypt. But 
 the fpell is revived. The Englifh have found their way into the 
 Red-fea, and have it at their option to deal with Egypt on their 
 own terms. The reader may remember the affiftance which we 
 received in our greatefl diftrefs, from the arrival of the Swallow 
 floop of war at Judda. This floop mounted about twenty guns, 
 and had carried difpatches from Madras to Suez, Since the Por- 
 tuguefe were expelled Arabia, no veffel of war belonging to a fo- 
 reign power, Imd vifited that port. Her arrival was a phenome- 
 i^p, VY-hich aiarrned the weaknefs of this government. The jea- 
 loufies. that exift among the European nations, are the bafis of 
 it& fecurity on the fide of the Mediterranean. But on the Ihoi'es 
 of the Rcd-fea, it muft fubmit to the power, whofe empire in 
 Ii}4iia has given them the navigation and commerce of the Red- 
 fe^, ..\^dthout a competitor. And this power is the Englifti. 
 A track, ftruck out by private adventurers, may hereafter bene- 
 fit the public ; and, under proper reftriftions, add to the influence 
 and power of the Company, in a meafure which might exceed- 
 expedlatioij*. Rumor is well known to. magnify danger. The 
 no o^B mBiy luc force 
 
 ^*»'4'he in lability of the Egyptfan government weakens, in fome degree, the 
 ?b<¥e^of 'thfis reafoning. It has been fuggefted by the ingenious Dr. Ruflell,, 
 Y^^jp^e long refidence ia Turkey inclines the author to pay a deference to him on 
 aikbjei^ on which he is fo much better informed, that, the difcouragemeiit which, 
 the 'f urks give to the trade by Suez, arifes from this very caufe. The revolu- 
 tiohs in Cairo are often annual, and the Porte, confequently, can depend but little, 
 on receiving a fbare of their profits from men, whofe footing in power is fo flip- 
 pery. The communication with India by the caravans of Aleppo, turns out 
 wholly in. favor of the Turk. The inference, therefore, which the Doctor draws, 
 is very judicious. The commerce by Aleppo would fall to the ground, were that 
 ^' '• by
 
 [ 385 J ^ 
 
 force of the Swallow floop was eilimated at Cairo at fixty guns. 
 Here, fhe is a firft rate ! It is no wonder that this government 
 fliould be on its good behavior, when it has not even a galley on 
 the Red-fea to prote6t the trade. For though this trade is almofl 
 wholly carried on upon Arabian bottoms, were an embargo 
 to be laid on the importation of coffee into the Egyptian ports, 
 the courfe would be turned to the caravans, through which chan- 
 nel the coffee is delivered at more than double the price, to what 
 it is by water. 
 
 MONDAY, 6th October. 
 
 We are detained here by the mofl vexatious of all circum- 
 fiances — the neglefl of the agents of the Cleopatra. Captain 
 Calvi has been ready to fail thefe four days, and his difpatches 
 are not yet arrived from Cairo. To whet our difappointment, 
 the wind has been eafterly the whole time; and we might 
 have performed a fourth part of our paffage to Marfellles. Na- 
 tural delays fliould be borne with patience; but thofe which 
 arife from human perverfenefs, are enough to ruffle a Stoic's 
 temper. 
 
 We encountered fbme objecls to-day, who beyond all others 
 Ihould engage our commiferation. They were the captain and 
 officers of a French vefTel, which was wrecked four years ago on 
 the coafl of Barbary. Along with the crew they were carried into 
 flavery ; and have now been releafed by an accident. The em- 
 peror of Morocco has fent an embafTy to the court of France, 
 and thefe Frenchmen were felefled, among forty others, as a pre- 
 fent worthy for a king to receive. The particulars of thefe un- 
 
 by Suez to be eftabliflied. And this is the fecret objeftion which the Porte en- 
 tertains to the latter trade ; and was hatched, not by the influence of French in- 
 trigues, nor the complaints of the religious of Mecca and Medina. 
 
 3 D fortunate
 
 [ 386 ] 
 
 fortunate people's ftoiy are very tnterefting, but very fimilar to 
 accounts already publifhed of captives irt the fame fituation. There 
 is a youth among them of about fourteen years of age. His lot 
 was different from the reft. On account of his youth, when 
 they were firft brought to Morocco, the emperor ordered him to 
 be an attendant in the feraglio. This anecdote ^xz had from the 
 boy's own mouth, ahhough he was fometimes at a lofs to ex- 
 prefs himfelf in his native tongue. His employment was to make 
 coffee for the emperor's wives, and to gather bouquets for them of 
 the fweeteft flowers in the gardens of the palace. It may, per- 
 haps, wound the pride of our countrymen to know, that the Sul- 
 tana is an.Engliftiwoman, who has been elevated to that dignity 
 more than twenty years. She feems to be about forty, and ha- 
 ving borne the emperor two fons, is perhaps, on that account, 
 treated by him with a diftin^flion, which her charms no longer 
 command. And in fafl, wliile he pays her only court in public, 
 his private hours are dedicated to a French concubine, v/ho was 
 made a captive by one of his cruizers, and on account of lier ex- 
 quilite beauty, preferred to the feraglio. Thefe barbarians, it 
 feems, are grown nice in their amours ! Depopulated Greece can- 
 not aftbi-d them a variety of beauty, but they niuft appropriate the 
 fpoils of France and England to pamper their bafe lufts ! Where 
 (leeps the vengeance -of thofe warlike nations, that they fuffer 
 theie crying injuries to pafs unpuniflied ? The gallies of Barbary 
 groan with their men, and her feraglios teem with their females ! 
 When the ftates of Europe learn to diftinguifli their true interefts; 
 when they eftablifh a firm bafis of union among themfelves ; then, 
 and then only, can they hope to fee their arms dire<5led againft 
 the common enemies of mankind ; to fee their commerce un- 
 interrupted, their people uninflaved by the refufe of the earth! 
 
 The Mahometan Ramazan is commenced. This inftitute is 
 an imitation of our Lent, except that there is a difference in the 
 
 mode
 
 i[r 387 J 
 
 mode of abftlnence required. The rigid Catholic contents him* 
 felf with a change of ditt ; and takes his ufual meals without 
 fcruple, fo that he forbears flefhi and certain forbidden thingsm 
 The life of a MufTulman undergoes a total innovation during this 
 fait From the time the fun rifes until it fets again, the tafte of 
 any fubftance, even water itfelf, is prohibited by the law of Ma- 
 homet. But then the night brings full reparation with it. Ex- 
 cefs follows abflinence, and he indulges himfelf in a variety of 
 food, to be revenged upon the law. The bad confequences of 
 this prieftcraft muft be fenfibly felt by both parties. Our Ja- 
 nizary has been quite unhinged fmce the Ramazan began. He 
 is now fitter for fleep than adlion, during the day; and were we 
 to remain here, we fliould reap little benefit from his fervices 
 while the faft continued. The flreets are now empty of people in 
 the day-time. Towards the evening they begin to affemble in the 
 cofFee-houfes, and at the corners of the flreets ; where they 
 wait for the prieft's proclamation of funfet. Their faces betray 
 the height of impatience; and at the appointed fignal, thcj 
 flart for their dinners with no very temperate intentions.. if I'lp 
 
 ^^' TUESDAY, 7th October. 
 
 The veflel's difpatches are at length arrived, but the wind is Co 
 confiderably heightened to-day, that the captain holds it danger- 
 ous to attempt moving out of his ftation with it. We muft wait 
 for what the morrow may efFeft in our behalf. 
 
 News is juft come from Cairo, that the troubles upon the Nile 
 are recommenced, and that w&r is about to renew its horrors in 
 this unhappy country. The fugitive beys have found means to 
 poffefs themfelves at length of Jirje, about which city they have 
 long hovered. The fituation of this poft enables them to ftop ef- 
 feftually, the navigation of the river. A large armament is pre- 
 i...i I. 3 D 2 paring
 
 ft <?^8 '] 
 
 paring at Cairo, to diflodge the rebels from their ftrong hold. 
 Boats of all kinds are prefled for this fervice, and the communi- 
 cation promifes to be interrupted between Alexandria and the me^ 
 tropolis. The ifTue of this commotion may, to all appearance, be 
 foretold. It is the laft effort of a defperate party, which can- 
 not avail them againft fuperior numbers and difcipline. Ifmaul 
 Beg has now fet a price upon the heads of his antagoniils. 
 This barbarous practice is juftified by the example of the moft 
 polifhed nations, againft thofe whom the ftate confiders as trai- 
 tors. And in all probabihtv, it will now rid the bey of Egypt 
 of his fears. But the accompliftiment of this defign is uncertain *. 
 We cannot fufficiently congratulate ourfelves on our removal 
 from thofe I'cenes of contention; and count all our toils as hap- 
 pily endured, fince we have efcaped thereby, the new delays that 
 awaited us. . .^ j.-, 
 
 Ibrahim has jufl: now taken leave of us, to embark on a boat 
 which is bound for Rofetto. He is furniflied with recommenda- 
 tions for the Englifti captains who may come to Suez ; and there 
 i^ no doubt of his finding a good opportunity to get back to the 
 Adventure, to which veflel he ftill belongs. The behavior of this 
 poor Indian has been uniformly honeft and ingenuous. Some 
 flight errors which he has been guilty of, were fully retrieved by 
 the importance of his fervices ; and could we command power or 
 riches at this moment, they would be employed in beftowing a 
 more fuitable reward on his merits. Henceforth be not virtue 
 appropriated by any particular feft. Let pride be taught to be- 
 lieve, there is no diftin6lion among mankind, but what refults 
 ■from the pradice of good and evil; and imbibe, with us, a chari- 
 table opinion of the members of every perfuafion. 
 
 • So uncertain, that it appears the very reverfe has fince happened, and the de- 
 pofed beys have recovered their power, though at this hour, perhaps, it has again 
 eladed their grafp ! 
 
 That
 
 [ i^9 ] 
 
 ■^■That we-^might be ready 'fiar ' the captain's' fummbns m tlvp 
 morning, we difcharged our debts at this place, and pfefehtedtjui" 
 Janizary with fome pieces of gold, for the trouble that . we have 
 given him. The alacrity with which we fhali quit thefe fliorcs, 
 has been quickened by concurrent circumftances. The very aJr 
 of this city feems to be impregnated with the breezes of tire 
 North. Her llreets difplay the habit which is fo familiar to our 
 eyes j and her harbor is crowded with veflels, wliicli are bound to 
 the lands of liberty and fcience. What bofom then can reprefs 
 its emotions at fuch a fight? What foot would linger on the 
 ftrand, when the fail was fet for the ports of Europe ? Curiofity 
 has been fatisfied. Like the hunters who have encountered toil 
 and danger in the purfuit of their game, we anticipate the fweets 
 of repofe j and find, that the ardor of expedlation conftituted tlip 
 principal pleafure of the chace. /s 
 
 .-..>... V,.. WEDNESDAY, 8th OcTOBEK^vod 21 dohhf 
 
 ^f The wind being favorable this morning for Qijr.,|departurej» 
 the Captain fired a gun, as a fignal for us to go off. At f^- 
 ven o'clock Monfieur Meillon accompanied Major Alexander, 
 ^r» Hammond, and myfelf to the quay, where we embaiked 
 on the Cleopatr^ i^^gd^^t^elpvep^ j^f^Sl^ ,(^^^^^ ^ 
 
 * It may be fatisfa£tory to the reader to know that our travellers, whom he has 
 fo long accompanied, arrived fafely in England at the clofe of the year 1777, after 
 a journey of eleven months. It may be fuppofed that the end of their, mifllon was 
 defeated by the delays they encountered ; but they flatter themfelves, that the mewt 
 of perfeverance v/'iU not be denied them, either by the refpe(Sable body in wnofeler- 
 vice it was exerted, or by the generous public. ' ' ' ■••';•' ^•-)i'-' 
 
 ... .-.ii . . iU ■^.,,^■.,■^,.•4. ,-•,,,,. _^.; vi 1 ... , ...ly /;,. ,,iw.,. J II 11., .J jUlol I J J.:,J •Ji, ' 
 
 n'is-oB, zeA ft jZqEffwq ^luod airfj JB li^^uod] ^lowoq tiarfi baiavoooi svBrf ay^"^ boloq
 
 C S9<^ 3 
 
 AND now. Madam, it is time to bid you adieu. To purfue the 
 fimile of the hunters, whatever TatisfaAion I may have found in 
 the recital of our adventures, I doubt vi^hether an indifferent per- 
 fon will liften as complacently to the tale. In the review of this 
 volume, I have as much reafon to pray for your indulgence, as to 
 hope for your fympathy. While the tear of pity dims your eye, 
 let it prove a vail to the inaccuracies which are almoft infeparable 
 from a work of this nature. Nor let this be deemed an unrea- 
 fonable or arrogant wifli. While the major part of mankind ai'e 
 adminiftering to the caprices of the female-fex, while they are 
 feeding their vanity with the groffefl flatteries, and perverting 
 their difpofitions by an idle compliance with their humours, his 
 prefumption may furely be excufed, who, actuated by a fpirit of 
 philanthropy, and willing to communicate the refult of deai*- 
 bought experience, endeavors to make one woman of his party, 
 who has reflection enough to weigh the importance of human 
 misfortunes, and zeal enough to promote their publication for the- 
 inftru6lion of the world. That he has not offered a trifling fub- 
 je6l to her confideration, is the befl: compliment which he could 
 pay to her underftanding -, and that he looks for her fympathy in 
 the hour of difl:refs, is not the worft pi6lure which he could give 
 of her feelings. To be a ferious member of a thoughtlefs tribe, 
 is no lefs an honor to a woman, than to poffefs a refined heart in a 
 depraved and diffipated age. 
 
 dl 
 
 I have the honor to be. 
 
 Madam, 
 
 ^Alexandria, 8th Odober, J 777. 
 
 Your's, &c. 
 
 POSTSCRIPT.
 
 T 29 i ] 
 
 ' P O S T S C R I P T. 
 
 U S T as thefe flieets were going to the prefs, a letter came to 
 my hands, which, on every account, I would wiOi to communi- 
 cate to the reader. The ftorm is blown over, and the tale that threa- 
 tened fuch tragical circumftances, is brought to an happy cbnclii-^ 
 fion. But if any chara6ter in this work has fecured the affe6li6n-' 
 of the reader, he will not refufe a ligh to its unworthy delliny. If 
 the work itfelf has interefted his paffions, he will greedily peruf'e 
 a fupplement, that promifes further food for his curiofity. The 
 letter is from Mr. Hammond, one of the number of the unlucky 
 fubje6ts of thefe adventures, who has poffcffed refolution enongli 
 to hazard the dangers of an inhofpitable fhore, and to return to 
 India by the route of Egypt, I mean not to anticipate the rela- 
 tion of a friend, but I fhould do injuftice to my own feelings, were 
 I to be filent on this melancholv occafion. 
 
 And here let me advife the fuiceptible reader to clofe the volume. 
 The ingratitude of mankind is too frequent, to difturb the Phi- 
 iofopher's peace ; but the impreflion it makes on the unexperi- 
 enced breaft, is too deep to be eafily erafed. But if he dare the 
 conflifl, and prefer to mingle his generous concern with mine, 
 let him refle6t on the crown of glory which awaits the virtuous 
 dead ! Let him, with me, weigh the unimportance of the track, 
 by which the foal is led to the regions of immortality j and while 
 we embalm the monarch's memory with an unfeigned tear, let us 
 
 lo hope
 
 [ 392 ] 
 hope that our latter prayers may be as acceptable to tlie Deity, 
 as our latter moments may be more propitious than thofe of the 
 great Ifmaii Abu Ally ! Unbroken be the reed which moans 
 thy lofs, rich pearl of Araby ! Sweet fmelling like the gums of 
 Aden's vale, to heaven afcend thy precious fpirit ! 
 
 C( 
 
 Grand Cairo, 20th Auguft, 1779. 
 
 " I cannot avoid giving you a letter from a place that was once 
 " fo defirable an objedl to us, however reverfed it has been to me 
 " a fecond time. I arrived here the 15th July laft, after a very 
 '* pleafant pallkge from Venice, and was preparing, with my 
 " fellow-travellers, to fet out for Suez on the 28th, when, on 
 '* tliat morning, Mr. Moore, the owner of our veflel, was made 
 " a prifoner, and detained till four days ago, in confequence of 
 " his fhip, with another at Suez, having been treacheroufly 
 " feized by the orders of this government. The fliips have fince 
 " been releafed, and the people are gone to Suez to take poflef- 
 •' iion of them again; which we only want to hear of, to enable 
 ** us to fet forward. This extraordinary manoeuvre, on the part 
 " of this government, was owing to an Englifli caravan having 
 ** been plundered in crofling the defart from Suez to Cairo, and 
 *' many unfortunate Europeans having periflied in the defart. 
 •' The government, upon this, contiived the means of feizing the 
 *' veffels, and have made us enter into folemn engagements with 
 " them, that no hoftilities fliall be committed hereafter by the 
 ** Englifli, in confequence of that accident ! 
 
 *• The politics of this country have been a good deal changed 
 " fince we left it. It feems that foon after our departure from 
 *' Cairo, Ibrahim Beg, and Morad Beg, were brought back into 
 " Cairo, accompanied by our old friend Ifman Abu Ally, wha 
 " was with Mr. Baldwin, and made many enquiries after us. For 
 «* this elTential fervice, the poor old man had his head taken off 
 10 " by
 
 
 3 ■] 
 
 ** by Mofad Beg, atout three weeks ago, who was at Ghinnah 
 " in purfuit of HufTein Beg, one of Ifmaul Beg's partizans ! — 
 ** Monfieur Chevalier, the late governor of Chandernagore, ar- 
 *' rived here a few days ago from Judda, by the route of Cofire. 
 " He met with Morad Beg at Ghinnah, who gave him his pafT- 
 ** port, for his fafety down the river. 
 
 •' I hope to leave Cairo in about five days, attended by our old 
 *• fervant Ibrahim, who has been wife enough to marry here, and 
 ** is as completely fettled as he well can be. I have advifed him 
 *• to pufh off to India with us. As if I had not been fufficienlfly 
 ** punifhed for making a fecond vilit to this country, I have had 
 *« the addition of an epidemical ficknefs, which has raged here 
 ** with great violence, and, I believe, has extended to every Euro- 
 ** pean in the place." 
 
 THE
 
 £ 394 3 
 THE 
 
 APPENDIX, 
 
 ODE TO THE DESART. 
 
 Written on a Journey through the Deiarts of Thebadsy 
 
 September I'jj'j* 
 
 THOU wafte f from human fight retir'd. 
 By nought efteem'd, invok'd, defir'd y 
 Where flony hill and fterile plain. 
 And evei'-fuUen filence reign* : 
 
 Where nought is feen to cheer the eye. 
 But ruflet earth and funny iky ; 
 Nor tree nor herbage blefs the ground. 
 Nor aught to cherifh life is found. 
 
 i 
 
 Save, where the deer, whom fears aflaili. 
 Shoots fuddenly athwart the vale ; 
 If chance the found of diftant feet 
 Approach his lonefome, dark retreats 
 
 O ! while thy fecrets I explore. 
 And traverfe all thy regions o'er,. 
 The patient camel I beftride — 
 May no ill hap his fteps betide ! 
 
 * " And ever- mufing melancholy reigns." ^ovz'i Eloij'a to Jbelard. 
 
 9' As
 
 [ 395 ] 
 
 As on we prefs the burning foil. 
 And through the winding valley toil. 
 Still lend fome hill's projefting height. 
 To fhield me from Sol's piercing fight. 
 
 And fhould our fcrips of water fail. 
 And horrid thirfl my lips affail. 
 Then, then, thy fcanty drops impart. 
 To renovate my fainting heart. 
 
 Nor to thy toiling fon refufe 
 
 The trufle's leaf, or berry's juice ; 
 Thefe ftinted produ6ls of the wafte. 
 Luxurious ! let my camel tafte. 
 
 At noontide heat, and midnight cold. 
 Thy vengeful flores of wrath with-hold : 
 Nor bid the fudden whirlwind rife. 
 To blend at once, hills, vales, and Ikies ! 
 
 Dread caufe ! too fubtile to define. 
 Where horror ! danger ! ruin join !— — 
 Stop, flop its peftilential breath. 
 That 'whelms a caravan in death ' 
 
 But chief, whence lies our daily track, 
 O ! turn the roving * Arab back j 
 Who, tyger-like, infefts the way. 
 And makes the traveller his prey. 
 
 * The reader will have found that this wifli was not granted. We fell in with a 
 party of wild Arabs, and, what was more extraordinary, on the very day that this 
 Ode was written. This meeting, fo dreaded by us, was, in all probability, the 
 caufe of our prefervation. Thefe foes to man, by an unexpected turn, became pur 
 friends. They were our guides when our people were at a lofs for the road ; they 
 led us to the fprings, and fupplicd us with food, when our water or provifion failed 
 us. What an ijiconteftible evidence i-s this of the weaknefs of human opinions ! of 
 the vanity of human wiflies ! 
 
 5 E 2 « As
 
 [ 396 ] 
 
 As erft the fons of Ifrael fled 
 From Pharaoh's reign and Nilus' bed,. 
 Here manna fell by God's command. 
 And water follow'd Mofes' wand: . 
 
 So may old Nilus paffing nigh, 
 A portion of his floods fupply ; 
 Invite the neighb'ring peafant's toil. 
 To cultivate thine alter'd foil. 
 
 So be thy hills with verdure fpread. 
 
 And trees adorn each nakerl head ;, 
 
 So in the thirfl:y vales below, 
 Difcover'd fprings be taught to flow. 
 
 So, teeming with neglefted veins. 
 Thy marble pay the fculptor's pains j 
 Who, emulous of Grecian tafte. 
 May give an Athens to the waft:e ! 
 
 And on thy furthefl: fandy fliore. 
 Which hears the Red-fea's billows roar,. 
 May Commerce fmile, her fails unfold. 
 And change thine iron age to gold ! 
 
 ODE
 
 [ 397 ] 
 
 ODE TO THE NILE. 
 
 Written during a Voyage down that River. Sept. 1777. 
 
 IMMORTAL ftream ! whom Afric leads 
 Through barren plains and verdant meads ; 
 Now flaming o'er the Nubian fands. 
 Now laving Egypt's cultur'd lands j 
 
 To mark where firft thou court'ft the gale, 
 The poet's ftretch of thought might fail : 
 Might heroes fhudder to behold 
 The wonders which thy depths unfold. 
 
 O ! place me on thy gentle tide. 
 When firfl it leaves its fountain wide ; 
 'Till, threat'ning on the Cat'ract's brow. 
 It rufhes to the world below. 
 
 Here, as the joylefs wild we trace, 
 "Where Nature fhrouds her beauteous face. 
 The Oftrich — child of want and gloom ! 
 Dips in thy wave his filver plume. 
 
 Now,
 
 [ 398 ] 
 
 T^ow, lurking on thy fedgy fliores. 
 The Crocodile his prey explores. 
 Hark ! 'tis a virgin's fliriek* — thy flood 
 She fought — to color with her blood ! 
 
 No arms the monfter can appal — 
 Bounds from his fcales th' unerring ball. 
 i,o ! to avenge a mother's tears. 
 The Hippopotamus appears ! 
 
 Now Death affumes his gnmmcft form. 
 Thy troubled furface owns the Itorm; 
 Like warring veflels, on they move 
 Their mortal rage and force to prove ! 
 
 O ! hafte we from this confli6t dire. 
 And to thy fairer fcenes retire; 
 Where, fwelling o'er thy native ftrand. 
 Thy waters fatten all the land; 
 
 Where on the wide expanfe are feen 
 The tufted grove and ifland green : 
 The minaret, that tow'rs above. 
 The haram — prifon gay of love ! 
 
 As Pleafure, Commerce, fpread the fail, 
 A thoufand gallies catch the gale : 
 Their oars a thoufand gallies ply, 
 Whofe pomp refulgent ftrikes the eye. 
 
 * This alludes to a circumflance which happened juft before the author came to 
 the Nile, and which the reader will find in page 259 of this work. The frequent 
 combats between the River-horfe and Crocodile, in which the former is generally 
 vidorious, arc too well known to need a comment. 
 
 ' Now
 
 [ 399 J 
 
 Now bear me down thy weftern arm. 
 Where Delta looks one cultur'd farm ; 
 By ruin'd cities, nodding towers. 
 And hide me in Rofetto's bowers. 
 
 Hail fhades ! who give fuch charms to view. 
 As ne'er Alcinous' gardens knew ; 
 While bloffoms here their fweets unfold, 
 Bow'd is the tree with fruit of gold. 
 
 And thou fam'd ftream ! what tho' no more 
 The world's emporium as of yore ; 
 Tho' grac'd not with the Roman name. 
 Thy realm contending factions claim : 
 
 A Pharaoh's daughter erft was thine. 
 Whom pity touch'd with cares divine. 
 As flie the prophet chanc'd to note 
 While in his ozier-bark afloat. 
 
 Thou knew 'ft a Cleopatra's reign. 
 Who number'd vi6lors in her train ; 
 A Juhus, led by glory's ray ; 
 An Anthony — to love a prey ! 
 
 A Ptolemy of learn'd renown. 
 And great Sefoftris wore thy crown ;: 
 Thine, Memphis ! crufli'd by adverfe fates,. 
 And Thebes — that op'd an hundred gates ! 
 
 Aiid
 
 [ 400 ] 
 
 And ftill flialt thou our homage keep, 
 While fea-girt Pharos awes the deepj 
 While left for ages to admire. 
 Thy pyramids to heav'n afpire ! 
 
 While Plenty on thy banks is found. 
 To feed the famifh'd nations round; 
 While Poets ftrive to fmg in vain 
 The wonders of thy vernal reign ! 
 
 N IS, 

 
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