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 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON 
 
 EXHIBITING THE MOST 
 
 RARE AND REMARKABLE OBJECTS OF INTEREST 
 IN THE METROPOLIS; 
 
 WITH NEARLY 
 
 BY JOHN TIMES, F.S.A. 
 
 [Bow Church and Cheapside, 1750.] 
 
 " I'll see these things ! They're rare and passing curious." OLD PLAY. 
 "I walked up to the window in my dusty black coat, and looking through the glass, sav 
 all the world in yellow, blue, and green, running at the ring of pleasure." STERNE. 
 "The man that is tired of London is tired of existence." JOHNSON. 
 
 A NEW EDITION, CORRECTED AND ENLARGED. 
 
 LONDON : 
 JOHN CAMDEN HOTTEN, 74 & 75, PICCADILLY 
 
 [All Rights Reserved.}

 
 PREFACE. 
 
 IT is not without considerable anxiety that I submit to the public this 
 enlarged edition of a Work in which are garnered many of the labours 
 of a long life, for the most part passed amidst the localities and charac- 
 teristics which it is the aim of this volume to focus and portray. The 
 cause of the above anxiety lies chiefly in the changeful nature of the 
 subject ; for at no period in the existence of the Metropolis have so 
 many changes been wrought in its " scarred face," and its modern aspect, 
 as in the Twelve Years that have elapsed since the publication of the first 
 edition of this "Work. 
 
 The " CURIOSITIES OF LONDON" originally appeared in the Spring of 1855, 
 in a small octavo volume of 800 pages, when it was received by the Critical 
 Press with almost unanimous approval ; or, in some respects, an inclina- 
 tion to take the word for the deed, and in others to kindly regard the 
 difficulties of the labour. In either case I am bound to be grateful. 
 The edition, over 3000 copies, was sold within a comparatively short 
 period, considering the character of the work, then regarded as almost ex- 
 clusively antiquarian ; although the above reception induces the belief that 
 " the Present has its Curiosities as well as the Past." The book remained 
 for several years entirely out of print, and second-hand could only be 
 rarely obtained by advertisement. I then resolved upon its revision, and 
 its reproduction, enlarged and more perfect in its details than hitherto ; 
 and the present volume of library size, 880 pages, is the result; im- 
 proved, it is hoped, in the value of its contents, as well as increased in bulk.
 
 iv PREFACE. 
 
 The plan and arrangement of this edition are essentially the same as 
 those of its predecessor. The type is somewhat enlarged, and more 
 readable ; in the quotations and descriptive details, the small but clear 
 letter has been adhered to, so as to comprise an additional amount 
 of exact and authorized illustrative information. Meanwhile, the extent 
 of the more important articles has been considerably augmented, though 
 with the requisite attention to conciseness and facility of reference. 
 Several new articles have been added ^ others have been re- written and 
 enlarged. Correctness has been the cardinal point throughout the Work ; 
 although the many thousand facts, names, and dates contained in this large 
 volume will, it is hoped, be taken into account. 
 
 The Preface to the First Edition has been reprinted for the sake of its 
 explanation of the design, which I have here amplified, improved, and 
 rendered more trustworthy as well as entertaining, by the best means 
 and opportunities at my disposal, venerating the injunction of the old 
 poet 
 
 " Up into the watch-tower get, 
 And see all things despoiled of fallacies." 
 
 The Annals of a great City are ofttimes to be traced in the history of 
 its Public Edifices. In the ancient and modern Cathedral, the venerable 
 Minster, and the picturesque Churches of the Metropolis, we not only 
 read the history of its Architecture, but in their " solemn paths of Fame " 
 we trace countless records of our country's greatness. 
 
 The Birthplaces and Abodes of eminent Londoners are so many hal- 
 lowed sites to those who love to cherish the memories of great men. The 
 palace-prison of " the Tower " bears upon its very walls an index to 
 most stirring events in our history. 
 
 The Civic H alls of London are stored with memorials of past ages 
 illustrating curious glimpses of manners and artistic skill in their Pictures, 
 Plate, and Painted Glass. 
 
 To trace the growth of great centres of population, from the village in 
 the fields to a city of palaces, part of the Great Town itself, leads us 
 through many vivid contrasts of life and manners : from the times when 
 Southwark was a Roman suburb ; Lambeth and Chelsea were Saxon 
 villages ; Westminster was a " Thorny Island ;" St. Marylebone, a hamlet 
 on the brook ; St. Pancras, in the fields ; and Finsbury, a swampy moor : 
 all lying around the focus of Roman civilization, the City itself. 
 
 Certain localities bear names which " make us seek in our walks the
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 very footmarks of the Roman soldier;" whilst one of our most thronged 
 thoroughfares can be identified as a British trackway and Roman street. 
 How often upon such sites are unearthed relics of the civilization and 
 luxury of our conquerors and colonists. 
 
 The records of the Amusements of the People, and their Sights and 
 Shows, in all ages, are richly stored with Curiosities : from the period 
 when Smithfield was an Anglo-Norman race-course, to the waning of the 
 last of the City pageants, Lord Mayor's Show. Old Poets and Dramatists, 
 Travellers and Diarists, have left us pictures-in-little of the sports and 
 pastimes, the follies and nine-day-wonders, of the "Londiners." Fitz- 
 stephen and Hentzner, Stow and Strype, Howell and Aubrey, Evelyn 
 and Pepys, Ned Ward and Tom Brown, Gay and Walpole, have bequeathed 
 us many " trivial fond records" of this anecdotic class. Again, how many 
 amusing eccentricities are recorded in the lives of the Alchemists, Astro- 
 logers, and Antiquaries of Old London ! 
 
 Such are the leading Archaeological features which, interwoven with 
 the Modern History and Present Condition of the Metropolis, form the 
 staple of the present volume. In the intermediate changes have dis- 
 appeared many old London landmarks, which it has been my special 
 object to describe : 
 
 " Praising what is lost, 
 Makes the remembrance dear." 
 
 JOHN TIMES. 
 
 HORNSEY-ROAD, 
 
 Dec. 1867. \\
 
 PREFACE 
 
 TO 
 
 THE FIRST EDITIO N, 
 
 T ITTLE need be said to bespeak the interest of readers in the staple of 
 JLJ the present work the Notable Things in the History of London 
 through its Nineteen Centuries of accredited antiquity. Still, I am anxious 
 to offer a few words upon the origin and growth of this volume ; and the 
 means by which I have striven to render it as complete as the extent and 
 ever-varying nature of the subject will allow. 
 
 Twenty-seven years since (in 1828), I wrote in the parlour of the 
 house No. 3 Charing Cross (then a publisher's), the title and plan of a 
 volume to be called " CURIOSITIES OF LONDON;" and the work here sub- 
 mitted to the public is the realization of that design. I then proposed to 
 note the most memorable points in the annals of the Metropolis, and to 
 describe its most remarkable objects of interest, from the earliest period 
 to my own time,- : for the Present has its Curiosities as well as the 
 Past. Since the commencement of this design in 1828, precisely mid- 
 way in my lifetime, I have scarcely for a day or hour lost sight of the 
 subject; but, through along course of literary activity, have endeavoured 
 to profit by every fair opportunity to increase my stock of materials ; and 
 by constant comparison, " not to take for granted, but to weigh and con- 
 sider," in turning such materials to account. In this labour I have been 
 greatly aided by the. communications of obliging friends, as well as by my 
 own recollection of nearly Fifty Years' Changes in the aspects of " enlarged 
 and still increasing London." 
 
 " Thinking how different a place London is to different people," I have, 
 in this volume, studied many tastes ; but its leading characteristics will
 
 PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. vii 
 
 be found to consist in what Addison's Freeholder calls " the Curiosities of 
 this great Town." Their bibliographical illustration, by quotations from 
 Old Poets and Dramatists, Travellers and Diarists, presents a sort of 
 literary chequer-work of an entertaining and anecdotic character ; and 
 these historic glimpses are brought into vivid contrast with the Social 
 Statistics and other Great Facts of the London of to-day. 
 
 The plan of the book is in the main alphabetical. Districts and locali- 
 ties are, however, topographically described ; the arrangement of streets 
 being generally in a sub-alphabet. The Birthplaces, Abodes, and Burial- 
 places of Eminent Persons so many sites of charmed ground are 
 specially noted, as are existing Antiquities, Collections of Hare Art and 
 Virtu, Public Buildings, Eoyal and Noble Residences, Great Institutions} 
 Public Amusements and Exhibitions, and Industrial Establishments ; so 
 to chronicle the renown of Modern as well as Ancient London. The 
 articles describing the Churches, Exchanges, Halls, Libraries and Museums, 
 Palaces and Parks, Parliament-Houses, Roman Remains, and the Tower 
 of London, are, from their importance, most copious in their details. 
 
 The utmost pains has been taken to verify dates, names, and circum- 
 stances ; and it is trusted that no errors may be found in addition to those 
 noted at the close of the volume, with the changes in the Metropolis 
 during the progress of the printing of the work. The reader, it is hoped, 
 will regard these inaccuracies with indulgence, when the immense number 
 of facts sought to be recorded in this volume is considered. Lastly, it has 
 been my aim to render the Curiosities useful as well as entertaining ; 
 and with that view are introduced several matters of practical informa- 
 tion for Londoners as well as visitors. 
 
 JOHN TIMBS. 
 
 88, SLOANE-STREET, CHELSEA, 
 Jan. 16, 1855.
 
 ADDITIONS, CHANGES, CORRECTIONS, 
 
 During the printing of the present Work (nearly 900 pages), several changes 
 have been made in the Metropolis its material aspect, as well as in circumstances 
 affecting its government, &c. j among which are the following, entitled to special 
 note : 
 
 Page 36. BUNHILL-PIELDS BITBIAL-GEOUND. By Act of Parliament, the 
 management of this property has heen transferred hy the Ecclesiastical Commissioners 
 to the Corporation of London, who are to convert the ground into a public garden ; 
 the Commissioners reserving the right to resume possession of the estate should their 
 conditions be ineffectually performed. 
 
 Page 37. 'Bartholomew's (S.) Hospital. The question as to the election of the 
 Presidents of the four great City Hospitals, stated at p. 37 to be then sub judice, 
 was, in November, 1866, decided by the Court of Queen's Bench in favour of the 
 Hospitals, the Governors of which have free choice in the election of their Presidents 
 (see p. 436). His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales has since been elected President 
 of S. Bartholomew's. 
 
 Page 41. Pantheon Bazaar was closed in 1867, and the building converted into a 
 wine dep&t. (See p. 640.) 
 
 Page 49. Bermondsey Priory. See Annales Monastici, vol. iii., edited by H. R. 
 Luard, 1866. 
 
 Page 74. Top line, for Jolliffe Banks, read Jolliffe and Banks. 
 T*"ff> 80. The Speaker's State Coach is now kept at the Speaker's stables, 
 Millbank. 
 
 J'uije 85. Charterhouse site and buildings are to be transferred to Merchant 
 Taylors ; and Charterhouse to be removed into the country. 
 
 Page. 92. The old print of the " Bunn House at Chelsey," measures 52 by 21 
 inches. 
 
 Page 144. Church of 8. Alban the Martyr : the choir entirely for the parishioners. 
 
 Page 153. S. Benet's Church, Gracechurch-street, has been taken down. 
 
 Page 238. For Peckburn read Pickburn. 
 
 Page 284. NELSON COLUMN. The bronze lions, by Landseer, on the pedestal, are 
 described at p. 759. 
 
 Page 287. COMMON COUNCIL. For " the Court held," read the Court hold. 
 
 Page 302. For " Britton and Bailey," read Brit ton and Brayley. 
 
 Page 312. DOCTOES' COMMONS. The buildings were taken down in 1867. 
 
 Page 350. FLEET-STBEET. No. 50, (not 13,) formerly the Amicable Life As- 
 surance Office, is now the Office of the Norwich Union Society. 
 
 Page 430. Middle Row has been taken down. 
 
 Page 469. GHAT'S INN. For " Corner-court," read Cowcy-court. 
 
 Page 541. MANSION HOUSE. At the close of the International Exhibition of 
 1851, the Corporation of London, with a view of encouraging the growth of Art in 
 this country, voted the sum of 10,000. to be expended in Statuary for the Egyptian 
 Hall ; and the Statues now in the Hall were ordered. 
 
 Page 608. STEAND Music HALL. For " Old," read New Exeter 'Change. 
 
 Page 716. Spitalfields. For " Lottesworth," read Lolesworth.
 
 CUEIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ADELPHI, THE. 
 
 A SERIES of streets in the rear of the houses on the south side of the Strand, 
 reaching east and west from Adam-street to Buckingham -street, and facing the 
 Thames on the south a grand commencement of the architectural embankment of the 
 river, in 1768. It is named Adelphi (d8t\<pbs, brother) from its architects, the four 
 brothers Adam, who built vast arches over the court-yard of old Durham House, and 
 upon these erected, level with the Strand, Adam-street, leading to John, Robert, 
 James, and William-streets ; the noble line of houses fronting the Thames being the 
 Adelphi-terrace. The view from this spot is almost unrivalled in the metropolis for 
 variety and architectural beauty : from Waterloo Bridge on the east, with the majestic 
 dome and picturesque campanili of St. Paul's, to Westminster Bridge on the west, 
 above which rise the towers of Lambeth Palace and Westminster Abbey ; the massive 
 entrance and lofty clock-tower, and pinnacled and bristling roofs of the Houses of Par- 
 liament : beneath lies the river, spanned with manifold bridges. The prospect is, how- 
 ever, partially disfigured with huge and shapeless railway buildings. 
 
 In passing through Parliament the Bill for the Embankment of part of the Thames adjoining 
 Durham-yard, a violent contest arose between the City and the Court. The Lord Mayor, as Con- 
 servator of the river, considering the rights of the citizens exposed to encroachment, they were heard 
 by counsel in Parliament. They produced a grant of Henry VII. of all the soil and bed of the river, 
 from Staines Bridge to a place in Kent, near the Medway ; and showed a lease granted by them, sixty- 
 six years before this period, of a nook of the river at Vauxhall, under which they still continued to 
 receive rent. On the other side a charter of Charles II. to the City was produced, in which he reserved 
 the bed of the river ; and it was contended that the City, by receiving the latter grant, abandoned the 
 former; that the charter of Henry VII. extended only to the soil of the river within the City and 
 suburbs. The lease of Vauxhall was said to be a mere encroachment, and the right of the City was 
 utterly denied. These arguments prevailed : the Bill passed both Houses : and the magnificent pile of 
 buildings called the Adelphi was erected on the site. The brothers Adam were chosen the Court 
 architects, through the influence of the Earl of Bute, and did not escape the satire of the day : 
 
 " Four Scotchmen, by the name of Adam, 
 Who keep their coaches and their madam," 
 Quoth John, in sulky mood, to Thomas, 
 " Have stole the very river from us." 
 
 Foundling Hospital for Wit, vol. iv. 
 
 In the centre house of the Terrace, No. 4, David Garrick lived from 1772 till his 
 death, Jan. 20, 1779 : the ceiling of the front drawing-room was painted by Antonio 
 Zucchi, A.R.A. ; the white marble chimney-piece cost 300Z. Garrick died in the back 
 drawing-room ; and here his remains lay in state, previous to their interment in West- 
 minster Abbey, Feb. 1. Johnson says : " His death eclipsed the gaiety of nations ;" 
 but Walpole, " Garrick is dead ; not a public loss ; for he had quitted the stage." 
 There were not at Lord Chatham's funeral half the noble coaches that attended 
 Garrick's ; Burke was one of the mourners, and came expressly from Portsmouth to 
 follow the great actor's remains ; and Lord Ossory was one of the pall-bearers. Walpole 
 writes to the Countess of Ossory : 
 
 " Yes, madam, I do think the pomp of Garrick's funeral perfectly ridiculous. It is confounding the 
 immense space between pleasing talents and national services. What distinctions remain for a patriot 
 hero, when the most solemn have been showered on a player ? . . . Shakspere, who wrote when 
 Burleigh counselled and Nottingham fought, was not rewarded and honoured like Garrick, who only 
 acted." Letter, Felt. 1, 1779. 
 
 B
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 GaiTick's widow also died in the front drawing-room of the same house, in 1822, at 
 the Adelphi-terrace. The floor is now the chambers of the Royal Literary Fund 
 Society. In another of the Terrace houses lived Sir Edward Banks, one of the builders of 
 Waterloo, Southwark, London, and Staincs bridges, over the Thames. He was one of 
 the earliest railway "navvies," and worked on the Merstham Railway, in Surrey, 
 about the year 1801 : by natural abilities and the strictest integrity, he raised himself 
 to wealth and station : he died July 5, 1835. 
 
 At the north-east corner of Adam-street, No. 73, Strand, Becket, the bookseller, 
 kept shop, the rendezvous of Garrick, who never went to taverns, seldom to coffee- 
 houses. At No. 1, Adam-street, lived Dr. Vicesimus Knox, one of "the British 
 Essayists ." In the first floor of the same house resided, for twenty years, in almost 
 total seclusion, George Blamire, barrister-at-law, of very eccentric habits, but sound 
 mind. No person was allowed to enter his chamber, his meals and all communications 
 being left by his housekeeper at the door of his ante-room. He was found dead in an 
 arm-chair, in which he had been accustomed to sleep for twenty years. He died of 
 exhaustion, from low fever and neglect ; at which time his rooms were filled with fur- 
 niture, books, plate, paintings, and other valuable property. 
 
 At Osborne's Hotel, John-street, in 1824, sojourned Kamehameha II., King of the 
 Sandwich Islands, and his sister the Queen, with their suites : at this time was written 
 the song of " The King of the Cannibal Islands." The Queen died here of measles, 
 July 8 ; and the King died of the same disease at the Caledonian Hotel on the 14th. 
 Their remains lay in native pomp at Osborne's, and were then deposited in the vaults 
 of St. Martin's Church, prior to their being conveyed in the Blonde frigate to the 
 Sandwich Islands for interment. The poor King and Queen were wantonly charged 
 with gluttony and drunkenness while here ; but they lived chiefly on fish, poultry, and 
 fruit, and their favourite drink was some cider presented to them by Mr. Canning. 
 
 In John-street also, on the north side, is the house built for the Society of Arts by 
 the Adams, and extending over part of the site of the New Exchange, Strand. In 
 the second-floor chambers at No. 2, James-street, lived, for nearly thirty years, Mr. 
 Thomas Hill, the " Hull " of Theodore Hook's novel of Gilbert Gurney. Hill died 
 ' ^J here December 20, 1841, in his eighty -first year, and left a large collection of curio- 
 sities, including a cup and a small vase formed from the mulberry-tree planted by 
 Shakspeare at Stratford -upon -A von. Neither of these, however, is the Shakspeare 
 Cup presented to Garrick by the Mayor and Corporation of Stratford at the time of 
 the Jubilee. This celebrated relic was bought on May 5, 1825, for 121 guineas, by 
 Mr. J. Johnson ; and by him sold, July 4, 1846, for 402. 8*. Gd., to Mr. Isaacs, of 
 Upper Gower-street. 
 
 The Adelphi vaults, in part occupied as wine-cellars and coal-wharfs, in their grim 
 vastness, remind one of the Etruscan Cloaca of old Rome. Beneath the " dry arches," 
 the most abandoned characters have often passed the night, nestling upon foul straw ; 
 and many a street-thief escaped from his pursuers in these dismal haunts, before the 
 introduction of gas-light and a vigilant police. 
 
 ADMIRALTY OFFICE, THE, 
 
 "T?ORMS the left flank of the detachment of Government Offices on the north side of 
 A- Whitehall. It occupies the site of Wallingford House, from the roof of which 
 Archbishop Usher saw King Charles I. led out to execution in the front of Whitehall 
 Palace, and swooned at the sad scene. 
 
 Wallingford House was sold to the Crown in 1680, and thither the business of the 
 Admiralty was removed from Crutched Friars, and Duke-street, Westminster. The 
 street front was rebuilt by Thomas Ripley, about 172G. 
 
 " See under Bipley rise a new Whitehall." 
 
 The Dunciad, B. iii. 
 
 The Admiralty is a most ugly edifice. To conceal its ugliness, the court-yard was 
 fronted with a stone screen, by Adam, in the reign of George III. This screen is a 
 very characteristic composition; its sculptured hippocampi, and prows of ancient 
 vessels, combining with an anchor in the pediment of the portico of the main building,
 
 ALCHEMISTS. 
 
 to denote the purposes of the office the administration of the affairs of the Royal Navy. 
 In one of the large rooms the hody of Lord Nelson lay in state, January 8, 1806 ; and 
 next day took place the solemn funeral procession, with a military force of nearly 8000 
 men, from this spot to St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 The office of Lord High Admiral was, in 1827, revived, after the sleep of a century, 
 and was conferred by patent (similar to that of Prince George of Denmark), upon the 
 Duke of Clarence, who resided at the Admiralty. His Royal Highness was thought by 
 the Duke of Wellington, then Premier, to have mixed up with the business of the office 
 too much jaunting and cruising about, presenting of colours, and shows, on sea and 
 land, " more expensive and foolish than in any way serviceable." On a long account 
 for travelling expenses being sent in to the Treasury by the Duke of Clarence, the 
 Premier endorsed the paper, " No travelling expenses allowed to the Lord High Admiral," 
 and dismissed it ; when His Royal Highness retired ; the salary was 5000Z. a year. 
 
 On the roof of the Admiralty Office, many years since, was placed a Semaphore (the 
 invention of Sir Home Popham) ; the arms of which, extending laterally at right 
 angles, communicated orders and intelligence to and from the sea-ports ; previous to 
 which was used the shuttle telegraph, invented by R. L. Edgeworth. The Semaphore 
 has, however, been superseded by the Electric Telegraph, of which wires are laid from 
 the office in Whitehall to the Dockyard at Portsmouth, &c. 
 
 ALCHEMISTS. 
 
 SOME sixty years since, there died in his chamber, in Barnard's Inn, Holborn, Peter 
 Woulfe, the eminent chemist, a Fellow of the Royal Society. According to Mr. 
 Brande, Woulfe was " the last true believer in alchemy." He was a tall, thin man ; 
 and his last moments were remarkable. In a long journey by coach, he took cold ; 
 inflammation of the lungs followed, but he strenuously resisted all medical advice. By 
 his desire, his laundress shut up his chamber, and left him. She returned at midnight 
 when Woulfe was still alive; next morning, however, she found him dead; his coun- 
 tenance was calm and serene, and apparently he had not moved from the position in 
 which she had last seen him. These particulars of Woulfe's end were received by the 
 writer from the Treasurer of Barnard's Inn, who was one of the executors of Woulfe's 
 last will and testament. Little is known of Woulfe's life. Sir Humphry Davy tells 
 us that he used to affix written prayers, and inscriptions of recommendations of his 
 processes to Providence. His chambers were so filled with furnaces and apparatus, 
 that it was difficult to reach the fireside. Dr. Babington told Mr. Brande that he once 
 put down his hat, and could never find it again, such was the confusion of boxes, pack- 
 ages, and parcels, that lay about the room. His breakfast-hour was four in the 
 morning : a few of his friends were occasionally invited, and gained entrance by a 
 secret signal, knocking a certain number of times at the inner-door of the chamber. 
 He had long vainly searched for the Elixir, and attributed his repeated failure to the 
 want of due preparation by pious and charitable acts. Whenever he wished to break 
 an acquaintance, or felt himself offended, he resented the supposed injuries by sending a 
 present to the offender, and never seeing him afterwards. These presents sometimes 
 consisted of an expensive chemical product, or preparation. He had an heroic remedy 
 for illness, which was a journey to Edinburgh and back by the mail-coach ; and a cold 
 taken on one of these expeditions terminated in inflammation of the lungs, of which he 
 died. A Century of Anecdote, vol. ii., pp. 315, 316. 
 
 "About 1801, an adept lived, or rather starved, in the metropolis, in the person of an Editor of an 
 evening journal, who expected to compound the alkahest if he could only keep his materials digested 
 in a lamp-furnace for the space of seven years. The lamp burnt brightly during six years, eleven months, 
 and some odd days besides, and then, unluckily, it went out. Why it went out the adept never could 
 guess ; but he was certain that if the flame could only have burnt to the end of the septenary cycle hia 
 experiment must have succeeded." Paper on Astrology and Alchemy, by Sir Walter Scott ; Quarterly 
 Beview, 1821. 
 
 In Catherine-street, Strand, lived for many years, one John Denley, a bookseller, 
 who amassed here a notable collection of the works of alchemist, cabalist, and astro- 
 loger. He is the individual so characteristically portrayed by Sir Edward Lytton 
 Bulwer, in the introduction to his Zanoni. 
 
 3 2
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Within the last fifteen years, there has been printed in England, a volume of consi- 
 derable extent, entitled, A Suggestive Inquiry into the Hermetic Mystery : London, 
 T. Saunders, 1850. This work, which a Correspondent of Notes and Queries describes 
 as " a learned and valuable book," is by a lady (anonymous), and has been suppressed 
 by the author. By this circumstance we are reminded of a concealment of alchemical 
 practices and opinions, some thirty years since, when it came to our knowledge that a 
 man of wealth and position in the metropolis, an adept of Alchemy, was held in 
 terrorem by an unprincipled person, who extorted from him considerable sums of money 
 under a threat of exposure, which would have affected his mercantile credit. 
 
 ALMACK'S 
 
 A SSEMBLY-ROOMS, on the south side of King-street, St. James's, were built by 
 -l- Robert Mylne, architect, for Almack, a Scotchman, and were opened Feb. 12, 
 1765, with an Assembly, at which the Duke of Cumberland, the hero of Culloden, was 
 present. Gilly Williams writes to George Selwyn : 
 
 " There is now opened at Almack's, in three very eleerant new-built rooms, a ten-guinea subscription, 
 for which you have a ball and supper once a week, for twelve weeks. You may imagine by the sum 
 the company is chosen ; though, refined as it is, it will be scarce able to put old Soho (Mrs. Cornelys') 
 out of countenance. The men's tickets are not transferable, so, if the ladies do not like us, they have 
 no opportunity of changing us, but must see the same persons for ever." . . . . " Our female Almack's 
 flourishes beyond description. Almack's Scotch face, in a bag-wig, waiting at supper, would divert 
 you, as would his lady, in a sack, making tea and curtseying to the duchesses." 
 
 The large ball-room is about one hundred feet in length, by forty feet in width ; ifc 
 is chastely decorated with gilt columns and pilasters, classic medallions, mirrors, &c., 
 and is lit with gas, in cut-glass lustres. The largest number of persons ever present 
 in this room at one ball was 1700. 
 
 The rooms are let for public meetings, dramatic readings, lectures, concerts, 
 balls, and dinners. Here Mrs. Billington, Mr. Braham, and Signor Naldi, gave 
 concerts, from 1808 to 1810, in rivalry with Madame Catalan!, at Hanover-square 
 Rooms; and here Mr. Charles Kemble gave, in 1814, his Readings from Shakespeare. 
 Almack's Rooms are often called " Willis's," from the name of their present pro- 
 prietor. Many public dinners now take place here. 
 
 Almack's has declined of late years ; " a clear proof that the palmy days of exclusive- 
 ness are gone by in England ; and though it is" obviously impossible to prevent any 
 given number of persons from congregating and re-establishing an oligarchy, we are 
 quite sure that the attempt would be ineffectual, and that the sense of their importance 
 would extend little beyond the set." Quarterly Review, 1840. 
 
 b > " 7 Many years ago was published Almack's, a novel, in which the leaders of fashion were 
 sketched with much freedom : they were identified in A Key to Almack's, by Ben- 
 jamin Disraeli. 
 
 ALDERMAN. 
 
 rpHE oldest office in the Corporation of London, and derived from the title of the 
 -L superior Saxon noble. The more aged were so called ; for aide in Saxon means 
 "old," and alder is our word " older :" hence, as the judgment is most vigorous in 
 persons of more mature years, the dignitary who, among the Romans, was known as 
 " Consul " or " Senator," among us is called " Alderman." And yet, in the case of 
 aldermen, maturity of mind is to be considered rather than of body, and gravity of 
 manners in preference to length of years : hence it is that in the ancient laws of King 
 Cnut, and other kings in Saxon times, the person was styled " Alderman " who is now 
 called " Judge " and " Justiciar," as set forth in the Liber Custumarum. These alder- 
 men, too, in respect of name as well as dignity, were anciently called " Barones," 
 and were buried with baronial honours ; a person appearing in the church upon a 
 caparisoned horse in the armour of the deceased, with his banner in his hand, and carry- 
 ing upon him his shield, helmet, and the rest of his arms.* This gorgeous ceremonial 
 was gradually discontinued; but the alderman still retained great state, and enjoyed 
 special immunities. He could not be placed on inquests; he was exempt from fees on 
 the enrolment of deeds or charters relating to himself; and any person who assaulted 
 
 * See Liber Albut; the White Sook, B. 1, Pt. 1, translated by Riley, 1861.
 
 ALDERMAN. 5 
 
 or slandered him was liable to be imprisoned, to be put in the pillory, or to have his 
 hand struck off. The aldermen were privileged to be arrayed, on particular occasions, 
 in certain grand suits, lined with silk. But if a mayor or alderman gave away, or in 
 any manner parted with, his robe within his year of office, he was mulcted in a forfei- 
 ture of one hundred shillings for the benefit of the community, without remission ; or 
 if he wore his cloak single, or not trimmed with far, he was subjected to a penalty. 
 Madox says : " Alderman was a name for a chief governor of a secular guild, and in 
 time it became also a name for a chief officer in a guildated city or town " and he 
 quotes, in illustration, the circumstance of the Prior of Holy Trinity, Aldgate, becom- 
 ing an Alderman of London, in consequence of the grant to that priory of the " English 
 Knightengild." According to Norton's Commentaries on London, " there is no trace 
 when the name of Alderman was first applied to the presidents of the London wards or 
 guilds : the probability is it was introduced after the Conquest ; and there is reason 
 to believe that the appellation was not used in that sense until the time of Henry II.," 
 when Aldermen are first mentioned as presiding over guilds, some of which were terri- 
 torial and others mercantile. Each has his title from his ward, as " Alderman of 
 Cheap," " Alderman of Queenhithe," &c. ; but, anciently, the Ward was styled after 
 the name of its alderman ; as Tower Ward was called " the Ward of William de 
 Hadestok." The present ward of Farringdon was bought by William Faryngdori in 
 1279, and remained in his family upwards of eighty years; it was held by the tenure 
 of presenting at Easter a gillyflower, then of great rarity. 
 
 Among the early Aldermen we find, in the reign of Henry III., Arnald Fitz- 
 Thedmar, who compiled a Chronicle of the Mayors and Sheriffs of London, from 1188 
 to 1274, in the Liber de Antiquis Legibus, translated in 1846 and 1863. Somewhat 
 later, we find William de Leyre, Alderman of the Ward of Castle Baynard : he had 
 once acted as gaoler to the heroic William Wallace ; for it was in his house, situate in 
 the parish of All Saints, Fonchurch -street, that the patriot was confined (22nd August, 
 1305), the day and night before his barbarous execution at the Elms in Smithfield. 
 
 Aldermen have, at various times, suffered by the caprice of sovereigns. In 1545, 
 when Henry VIII. demanded a "benevolence" from his subjects, to defray the charges 
 of his w r ar with France and Scotland, Richard Read, an Alderman of London, refused 
 to pay the sum required from him. For this offence, Henry compelled the recusant 
 Alderman to serve as a foot-soldier with the army in Scotland, where he was made 
 prisoner; and after enduring great hardships, he purchased his discharge by a con- 
 siderable ransom. (See Lord Herbert's Life of Henry VIII.) 
 
 Alderman Barber, the first printer Lord Mayor (1733), was the friend of Boling- 
 broke, Swift, and Pope ; and in 1721 erected a tablet to Samuel Butler, in West- 
 minster Abbey, with an eulogistic Latin inscription, notwithstanding Butler's satiric 
 " Character of an Alderman :" 
 
 "He does no public business without eating and drinking 1 ; and when he comes to be a lord-mayor, 
 he does not keep a great house, but a very great house-warming for a whole year ; for though he invites 
 all the Companies in the City, he does not treat them, but they club, to entertain him and pay the 
 reckoning before the meal. His fur gown makes him look a great deal bigger than he is, like the 
 feathers of an owl ; and when he pulls it, off, he looks as if he were fallen away, or like a rabbit, had his 
 skin pulled off." 
 
 The notorious Alderman Wilkes was a man of talent, though profligate and unprin- 
 cipled. Alderman Boydell was a generous and discriminating promoter of the fine 
 arts, and was honoured with a public funeral. Alderman Birch was an accomplished 
 scholar, and wrote dramatic pieces. Alderman Salomons, who joined the Court in 1847, 
 was the first Jew admitted to that privilege. The Aldermen form the bench of magis- 
 trates for the City : each, on his election by Wardmote, receives a present of law- 
 books ; and in the absence of any prisoners for examination at the Police Court in which 
 the Alderman sits, he receives a pair of white kid gloves. The Aldermen receive no 
 salary, but exercise many influential privileges ; their duties are onerous. Probably the 
 history of the Court presents a greater number of instances of self- advancement than 
 any other records of personal history. Pensions or allowances are paid annually by 
 the Court to the widows or descendants of their less fortunate brethren. 
 
 Each of the twenty-six City Wards elects one Alderman for life, or " during good 
 behaviour." The fine for the rejection of the office is 500 J. ; but it is generally sought
 
 6 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 as a stepping-stone to the Mayoralty, each Alderman being in rota Lord Mayor, he 
 having previously served as Sheriff of London and Middlesex. The Aldermen form a 
 court, the Lord Mayor presiding ; and sit in a superb apartment of the Guildhall, 
 which has a rich stucco ceiling, painted mostly by Sir James Thornhill ; in the cornice 
 are carved and emblazoned the arms of all the Mayors since 1780 ; each Alderman's 
 chair bears his name and arms : he wears a scarlet cloth gown, hooded and furred ; 
 and a gold chain, if he hath served as Mayor. Upon state visits of sovereigns to the 
 City, the several Aldermen ride in procession on horseback. At the opening of the 
 New Royal Exchange, October 28, 1844, the Aldermen rode thus, wearing their scarlet 
 gowns and chains, and cocked hats, carrying wands, and preceding the Queen's proces- 
 sion from Temple Bar to the Exchange. 
 
 ALMONRY, THE, 
 
 OR Eleemosynary, corruptly, in Stow's time, and later, the Ambry, was named from 
 its being the place where the alms collected in the Abbey Church at Westminster 
 were distributed to poor persons. It was situated at the east end of the Sanctuary, and 
 was divided into two parts : the Great Almonry, consisting of two oblong portions, 
 parallel to the two Tothill streets, and connected by a narrow lane (the entrance being 
 from Dean's-yard) ; and the Little Almonry, running southward, at the eastern end of 
 the other Almonry. 
 
 In the Almonry the first printing-press ever known in England was set up by 
 William Caxton : according to Stow, in an old chapel near the entrance of the Abbey ; 
 but a very curious placard, in Caxton's largest type, and now preserved in the library 
 of Brasenose College, Oxford, shows that he printed in the Almonry ; for in this pla- 
 card he invites customers to " come to Westmonester in to the Almonestrye at the Reed 
 Pale," the name by which was known a house wherein Caxton is said to have lived. 
 It stood on the north side of the Almonry, with its back against that of a house on 
 the south side of Tothill-strcet. Bagford describes this house as of brick, with the 
 sign of the King's Head : it is said to have partly fallen down in November, 1845, 
 before the removal of the remainder of the other dwellings in the Almonry, to form a 
 new line (Victoria-street) from Broad Sanctuary to Pimlico, when wooden types were said 
 to have been found here. A beam of wood was saved from the materials of the house, 
 and from it have been made a chess-board and two sets of chessmen, as appropriate 
 memorials of Caxton's first labour in England, namely, The Game and Playe of the 
 Chesse, 1474, folio, the first book printed in England. 
 
 According to a view of Caxton's house, nicely engraved by G. Cooke, in 1827, it was 
 three-storied, and had an outer gallery, or balcony, to the upper floor, with a window 
 in its bold gable : its precise site was immediately adjoining the spot now occupied by 
 the principal entrance to the Westminster Palace Hotel, in digging for the foundation 
 of which was found, at twelve feet from the surface, a statuette of the Virgin and 
 Child, eleven inches high, carved in sandstone, and bearing traces of rich gilding. 
 
 In the Little Almonry lived James Harrington, author of Oceana, in a " faire house," 
 which, according to Aubrey, " in the upper story, had a pretty gallery, which looked 
 into the yard (cover .... court), where he commonly dined and meditated, and took 
 his tobacco." This " gallery" corresponds with that in Caxton's house, which we well 
 remember : its identity has been questioned ; and in one of the appendices to Mr. 
 Gilbert Scott's Gleanings from Westminster Abbey, Mr. Surges suggests, not altogether 
 without probability, that it was in the spacious triforiuui of Westminster Abbey that 
 Caxton first set up his printing-press. Walcott states his " place of trade near a little 
 chapel of St. Catherine. It is not, however, wholly improbable that at first he erected 
 his press near one of the little chapels attached to the aisles of the Abbey, or in the 
 ancient Scriptorium."
 
 ALMONBT ALMSHOUSES. 
 
 ALMONRY, EOYAL. 
 
 rPHIS Office, in Middle Scotland-yard, Whitehall, is maintained expressly for the 
 -L distribution of the Boyal Alms, or Bounty, to the poor. The duties of the 
 Hereditary Grand Almoner, first instituted in the reign of Bichard I., are confined to 
 the distribution of alms at a Coronation. The office of the High Almoner is of a more 
 general description. In the reign of Edward I. his office was to collect the fragments 
 from the royal table, and distribute them daily to the poor ; to visit the sick, poor 
 widows, prisoners, and other persons in distress ; to remind the King about the be- 
 stowal of his alms, especially on Saints' days ; and to see that the cast-off robes were 
 sold, to increase the King's charity. 
 
 Chamberlayne describes the Great Almoner's office, in 1755, to have included the disposal of the 
 King's alms, for which use he received moneys, besides all deodands and bona felonum de se. He had 
 the privilege to give the King's dish to whatsoever poor men he pleased ; that is, the first dish at dinner, 
 set upon the King's table, or instead, 44. per diem. Next, he distributed every morning, at the court- 
 gate, money, bread, and beer, each poor recipient first repeating the Creed and the Lord's Prayer, in 
 the presence of one of the King's chaplains, the Sub-Almoner; who had also to scatter newly-coined 
 twopenees, in the towns and places visited by the King, to a certain sum by the year. Besides these, 
 there were many poor pensioners to the- King and Queen below stairs. 
 
 For more than a century the office of Lord High Almoner was held by the Arch- 
 bishops of York ; but on the death of Archbishop Harcourt, in November, 1847, the 
 office was conferred upon Dr. Samuel Wilberforce, Lord Bishop of Oxford. 
 
 The distribution of Alms on the Thursday before Easter, or Maundy Thursday, takes 
 place in Whitehall Chapel ; that at Easter, Whitsuntide, and Christmas, at the Office 
 in Middle Scotland-yard. 
 
 Thus, the Royal Maundy was distributed on Maundy Thursday, 1866, in Whitehall Chapel, with 
 the customary formalities, to 47 aged men and 47 aged women, the number of each sex corresponding 
 with the age of her Majesty. 
 
 The procession is formed in the following order : Boys of the Chapel Royal, Gentlemen of the 
 Chapel Royal, Priests of the Chapel Royal, Sergeant-Major of the Yeomen of the Guard, the Sergeant 
 of the Vestry, the Lord High Almoner, the Sub-Almoner, and the Sub-Dean, six children of the National 
 Schools, the Yeoman of the Almonry and his assistants, the Yeomen of the Guard, one carrying the 
 Royal Alms on a gold salver, of the reign of King William and Queen Mary. 
 
 A special service is then read, and after the first Anthem, 11. 15s. is distributed to each woman, and 
 to each man shoes and stockings. After the second Anthem woollen and linen clothes are distributed. 
 After the third Anthem, purses. And after the fourth Anthem, two prayers composed for the occasion 
 are read, and the prayer for the Queen, when the sermon is ended. 
 
 Each red purse contained the usual gold sovereign, and a further sum of 11. 10s. as a commutation in 
 lieu of provisions formerly issued from the Lord Steward's department of the Queen's Household. Each 
 white purse contained the Maundy coin, consisting of silver fourpenny, threepenny, twopenny, and 
 penny pieces, amounting to 47, the age of Her Majesty. 
 
 On Friday and Saturday in the previous week, and on Monday and Tuesday in the current week, 
 Her Majesty's Royal Bounty of 5s., and the Royal alms, in ancient times distributed at the gate of the 
 Royal Palace, were paid to aged and deserving poor who had been previously selected by the Lord High 
 Almoner and the Sub-Almoner, from those who had been recommended by various clergymen and by 
 other persons in London and its vicinity. The number relieved exceeded 1000 persons, among whom 
 vjry many were blind, paralyzed, and disabled, some exceeding 90 years of age. Formerly bread, meat, 
 and fish were distributed in large wooden bowls, and the officers carried bouquets of flowers and wore 
 white scarves and sashes ; but the earliest custom was the King washing with his own hands the feet 
 of as many poor men as he was old, hi imitation of the humility of the Saviour. The last monarch who 
 performed this act was James II. 
 
 The pious Queen Adelaide, who died in 1849, and is known to have expended one- 
 third of her large income in private and public charity, maintained in her household an 
 Almoner, whose duty it was to investigate all applications for the royal benevolence. 
 
 ALMSHOUSES, 
 
 BUILT by Public Companies, Benevolent Societies, and private individuals, for aged 
 and infirm persons, were formerly numerous in the metropolis and its suburbs. The 
 Companies' Almshouses were originally erected next their Halls, that the almspeople 
 might be handy to attend pageants and processions ; but these almshouses have mostly 
 been rebuilt elsewhere, owing to decay, or the increased value of ground in the City. 
 
 Almshouses succeeded the incorporated Hospitals dissolved by King Henry VIII. 
 Among the earliest erected were the Almshouses founded in Westminster by Lady Mar- 
 garet, mother of King Henry VII., for poor women ; in one of these houses lived Thomas 
 Barker, who aided Izaak Walton in writing his Complete Angler. They were con-
 
 8 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 verted into lodgings for the singing-men of the Abbey, and called Choristers' Rents : 
 they were taken down about 1800. 
 
 Westminster contains several of these munificent foundations : as the Red Lion Alms- 
 houses, in York^treet, founded in 1577, for eight poor women, by Cornelius Van Dun, 
 of Brabant, a soldier who served under King Henry VIII., at Tournay. Next are, in the 
 same neighbourhood, the Almshouses for twelve poor housekeepers of St. Margaret's, 
 with a school and chapel the boys clad in black : these were founded in 1566, by the 
 Rev. Edward Palmer, B.D., many years preacher at St. Bride's, Fleet-street, and who 
 used to sleep in the church-tower. Emmanuel Hospital, James-street, was founded by 
 the will of Lady Ann Dacre, in 1601, for aged parishioners of St. Margaret's ; and in 
 one of its almshouses, on January 22, 1772, died Mrs. Windimore, cousin of Mary 
 (consort of William III.) and of Queen Anne. 
 
 The Drapers' Company, in 1720, maintained Almshouses at Crutched-friars, Beach- 
 lane, Greenwich, Stratford-le-Bow, Shoreditch, St. George's-fields, St. Mary New- 
 ington, and Mile End. The Almshouses at Crutched-friars were erected and endowed 
 by Sir John Milborn, Mayor of London, in 1521, for thirteen decayed members of the 
 Drapers' Company (of which Sir John was several years Master), or bedemen, who 
 daily prayed at the tomb of their benefactor, in the adjoining church. The stone 
 carving of the Assumption of the Virgin, over the Tudor gateway leading towards the 
 pleasant little garden, the shields with heraldic devices, the old-fashioned roof, and 
 dark, rich, red-coloured brickwork, formed a picture well remembered; taken down 1862. 
 The Almshouses and School-house at Mile End were built in 1735, with the ill- 
 gotten fortune bequeathed by Francis Bancroft, grandson of Archbishop Bancroft, and 
 an officer of the Lord Mayor's Court; and so hated for his mercenary and oppressive 
 practices, that at his funeral, a mob, for very joy, rang the church-bells of St. Helen's, 
 Bishopsgate, where a monument to his memory had been erected in his life-time. The 
 almsmen are twenty-four poor old members of the Drapers' Company ; and the School 
 boards, clothes, educates, and apprentices 100 boys. 
 
 The Trinity Almshouses, in the Mile End-road, were erected by the Corporation of 
 the Trinity House, in 1695, for decayed masters and commanders of ships, mates, and 
 pilots, and their wives or widows. The thirty houses have characteristic shipping on 
 their roofs ; there is a chapel, and on the green is a statue of Captain Robert Sandes, a 
 benefactor to the establishment; he died 1721. 
 
 The Salters' Company had Almshouses for their decayed brethren in Monkwell- 
 street and Bow-lane ; in 1864, they were rebuilt, at Watford, Herts, at a cost of 8000/., 
 besides that of the site and adjacent grounds. 
 
 Traditionally, we owe the foundation of Dame Owen's School and Almshouses, at 
 Islington, to Archery. In 1610, this rich brewer's widow, in passing along St. John- 
 street-road, then Hermitage-fields, was struck by a truant arrow, and narrowly 
 escaped " braining ;" and the grateful lady, thinking such close shooting dangerous, in 
 commemoration of her providential escape, built, in 1613, a Free School and ten Aims- 
 houses upon the scene of her adventure. Since 1839 they have been handsomely 
 rebuilt by the Brewers' Company, trustees for the Charity. 
 
 Whittington's College, or Almshouses, founded in 1621, on College-hill, were rebuilt 
 by the Mercers' Company, at the foot of Highgate-hill, about 1826; cost 20,0001. 
 Upon the old site, College-hill, was built the Mercers' Schools. 
 
 The Fishmongers' Company's Almshouses, or St. Peter's Hospital, Newington Butts, 
 founded 1618, consisted of three courts, dining-hall, and chapel : they were rebuilt on 
 Wandsworth Common, in 1850; cost 25,OOOZ. 
 
 Edward Alleyn, the distinguished actor, and friend of Ben Jonson and Shakspeare, 
 besides founding Duhvich College, built and endowed three sets of Almshouses in the 
 metropolis : in Lamb-alley, Bishopsgate-street ; in Bath-street, St. Luke's ; and in Soap- 
 yard, Southwark. Of the Bath-street Almshouses, the first brick was laid by Alleyn 
 himself, Jnly 13, 1620 ; they were rebuilt in 1707. 
 
 Cure's College, in Deadman's-place, Southwark, was founded in 1584, by Thomas 
 Cure, saddler to King Edward VI. and the Queens Mary and Elizabeth, for 16 poor 
 pensioners, with 20d. a week ; president, the Chief Justice of the Common Pleas for 
 the time being. The College has been rebuilt.
 
 AMU8EMBNT8. 9 
 
 The East India Almshouses, Poplar, were established at the granting of the first 
 charter, in the 17th century, for widows of mates and seamen dying in the Company's 
 service. There are also houses, with gardens, for the widows of captains, receiving 
 pensions of from 307. to SOI. yearly. 
 
 In Bath-street, City -road, are Almshouses for poor descendants of French Protestant 
 Refugees, founded in 1708, after the revocation of the edict of Nantes. 
 
 The Goldsmiths' Company have Almshouses at Woolwich, Acton, and Hackney ; each 
 house has its little garden. 
 
 The Clock and Watchmakers' Asylum was founded in 1857 at Colney Hatch. 
 
 At Hoxton, are the Haberdashers' Company's Almshouses, founded by Robert Aske, 
 in 1692, for poor men of the Company, and boys ; here is a statue of the founder. 
 
 Morden College, Blackheath, was founded by Sir John Morden, in 1695, for decayed 
 merchants, each 727. a year, with coals, candles, washing-bath, medical and clerical 
 attendance. The chapel has some fine carvings, reputed to be by Gibbons. 
 
 Norfolk Almshouses, or Trinity Hospital, Greenwich, is an Elizabethan building, 
 founded by Henry, Earl of Northampton, 1613. The Trustees were the Mercers' 
 Company; revenue, 12,0007. a year. 
 
 Surrey Chapel Almshouses, erected 1811, were founded and principally endowed by 
 the Rev. Rowland Hill, for twenty-three destitute females. 
 
 The Marylebone Almshouses, built in St. John's-wood-terrace, Regent's-park, in 
 1836, originated in a legacy of 5007. from Count Woronzow; the site being leased for 
 ninety-nine years, at a pepper-corn rent, by Colonel Eyre, who is also entitled to two 
 presentations to the Charity. 
 
 The London Almshouses were erected by subscription, at Brixton, in 1833, to com- 
 memorate the passing of the Reform Bill, instead of by illumination. 
 
 The King William Naval Asylum, at Penge, opened 1849, for the widows of Com- 
 manders, Lieutenants, Masters and Pursers in the Royal Navy, was founded by Queen 
 Adelaide, to the memory of King William IV. 
 
 The Dramatic College has its retreat " for poor players," a central hall, residences, 
 and external cloisters, in the Tudor style, at Maybury, in Surrey. 
 
 Recently also have been erected Almshouses for the parishes of St. Pancras, St. 
 Martin, and Shoreditch. For Bootmakers, Mortlake ; Pawnbrokers, Forest-gate ; 
 Booksellers, King's Langley; Aged Pilgrims, Edgware-road ; Butchers, Walham- 
 green; Bookbinders, Eall's-pond; Printers, Wood-green ; Tailors (journeymen), Haver- 
 stock-hill ; and Poulterers and Fishmongers, Southgate ; besides many others provided 
 by Companies ; and Provident, Trades, and other societies, for decayed members. 
 
 The Almshouses erected of late years are mostly picturesque buildings, in the old 
 English style, with gables, turrets, and twisted chimney-shafts, of red brick, with hand- 
 some stone dressings. In Weale's London Exhibited in 1851 will be found a more 
 copious List of Almshouses (pp. 214 219) than the above. 
 
 AMUSEMENTS. 
 
 A RCHERY is mentioned among the summer pastimes of the London youth by 
 -*- Fitzstephen, who wrote in the reign of Henry II. ; and the repeated statutes 
 from the 13th to the 16th centuries, enforcing the use of the Bow, invariably ordered 
 the holidays to be passed in its exercise. Finsbury appears to have been a very early 
 locality for Archery ; for in the reign of Edward I. there was formed a society entitled 
 the Archers of Finsbury. Here, in the reign of Henry VII., all the gardens were 
 dcstroved by law, " and of them was made a plain field for archers to shoot in ;" this 
 being the early appropriation of what is now called " the Artillery Ground." There is 
 also preserved a MS. enumeration of the Archers' Marks in Finsbury Fields, compiled 
 in 1601 : it gives, in flight shooting, nineteen score as the distance between Allhollows 
 and Daie's Deed marks. Indeed, Miss Banks, Sir Joseph's daughter, an enthusiastic 
 lover of the bow, has left a MS. note that a friend, Mr. Bates, often shot eighteen 
 score in Finsbury Fields ; the length of the plain being about one mile, and the breadth 
 three-quarters. Among the curious books on Archery are the Ayme for Finslurie 
 Archers, 1628 ; and the Ayme for the Archers of St. George's Fields, 1664.
 
 10 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Henry VIII. shot with the longbow as well as any of his guards : he chartered a 
 society for shooting ; and jocosely dignified a successful archer as Duke of Shoreditch, 
 at which place his Grace resided. This title was long preserved by the Captain of the 
 London Archers, who used to summon the officers of his several divisions under the 
 titles of Marquis of Barlo, of Clerkenwell, of Islington, of Hoxton, of Shacklewell, 
 &.C., Earl of Pancras, &c. We read of a grand pageant in this reign, of three thousand 
 archers, guarded by whifflers and billmen, pages and footmen, proceeding from Mer- 
 chant Taylors' Hall, through Broad-street, the residence of their captain; thence into 
 Moorfields by Finsbury, and so on to Srnithfield, where they performed evolutions, and 
 shot at a target for honour. 
 
 Edward VI. was fond of Archery ; in his reign the scholars of St. Bartholomew, 
 who held their disputations in cloisters, were rewarded with a bow and silver arrows. 
 
 Stow (who died in 1605) informs us, that before his time it bad been customary at 
 Bartholomew-tide for the Lord Mayor, with the sheriffs and aldermen, to go into the 
 fields at Finsbury, where the citizens were assembled, and shoot at the standard with 
 broad and flight arrows for games, which were continued for several days. 
 
 Charles I. was an excellent archer, and forbade by proclamation the inclosure of 
 shooting-grounds near London. Archery, however, seems then to have soon fallen 
 into disrepute. Sir William Davenant, in a mock poem, entitled The Long Vacation 
 in London, describes idle attorneys and proctors making matches in Finsbury Fields : 
 
 " With loynes in canvas bow-ease tied, 
 Where arrows stick with miokle pride ; 
 Like ghosts of Adam Bell and Clymme, 
 Sol sets for fear they'll shoot at him ?" 
 
 Pepys records, in his Diary, that, when a boy, he used to shoot with his bow and 
 arrows in the fields of Kingsland. 
 
 In the reign of Henry VIII., a shout through the City of "Shovels and spades ! 
 Shovels and spades !" assembled a band of 'prentice lads, who speedily levelled the 
 hedges, dykes, and garden-houses, by which trespassers had encroached on the shooting- 
 fields. Even as late as 1786, the Artillery Company, preceded by a detachment of 
 their pioneers, marched over Finsbury, pulling down the fences again illegally erected. 
 The brick wall enclosing a lead-mill was also attacked ; but, on the entreaty of the pro- 
 prietor, the Hon. Company ordered it to be spared, contenting themselves with direct- 
 ing one of their archers to shoot an arrow over it, in token of their prescriptive right. 
 Proc. Soc. Antiquaries, London, vol. iv. No. 47. 
 
 In 1781, the remains of the " Old Finsbury Archers " established the Toxophilite 
 Society, at Leicester House, then in Leicester Fields. They held their meetings in 
 Bloomsbury Fields, behind the present site of Gower-street ; here, in 1794, the Turkish 
 Ambassador's secretary shot, with a bow and arrow, 482 yards. In about twenty-five 
 years they removed on " target days" to Highbury Barn ; from thence to Bayswater ; 
 and in 1834, to the Inner Circle, Regent's Park, where they have a rustic lodge, and 
 between five and six acres of ground. The Society consisted in 1850 of 100 members ; 
 terms, 51. annually, entrance-fee 51., and other expenses : they possess the original 
 silver badge of the old Finsbury Archers. They meet every Friday during the Spring 
 and Summer ; the shooting is at 60, 80, and 100 yards ; and many prizes are shot for 
 during the season ; Prince Albert was patron. 
 
 The most numerous Society of the kind now existing is, however, "The Royal Com- 
 pany of Archers, the Queen's body-guard of Scotland," whose captain-general, the 
 Duke of Buccleuch, rode in the coronation procession of Queen Victoria. 
 
 In 1849, the Society of Cantelows Archers was established ; their shooting-ground is 
 at Camden-square, Camden New Town ; the prize, a large silver medal. There was a 
 fine display of Archery at the Fete of the Scottish Society of London, in Holland Park, 
 Kensington, June 20, 21, 1849, when 3QO/.-worth of prize plate was shot for. 
 
 BALLAD-SINGING, the vestige of the minstrelsy which Cromwell, in 1656, silenced 
 for a time, was common in the last century. " The Blind Beggar " had conferred 
 poetic celebrity upon Bethnal Green ; " Black-eyed Susan," and " "fwas when the seas 
 were roaring," were the lyrics that landsmen delighted to sing of the sea ; and 
 " Jemmy Dawson" (set to music by Dr. Arne) grew into historic fame elsewhere than
 
 AMUSEMENTS. 
 
 on the scene of the tragedy, Kennington Common. To these succeeded the sea-songs 
 of Charles Dibdin, which were commonly sung about the streets by the very tars who 
 had first felt their patriotic inspiration : a sailor, who wore a model of the brig Nelson 
 upon his hat, long maintained his vocal celebrity upon Tower-hill. Hogarth, in his 
 " Wedding of the Industrious Apprentice," has painted the famous ballad-singer 
 " Philip in the Tub ;" and Gravelot, a portrait-painter in the Strand, had several 
 sittings from ballad-singers. The great factory of the ballads was long Seven Dials, 
 where Pitts employed Corcoran, and was the patron of "slender Ben" and "over-head- 
 and-ears Nic." Among its earlier lyrists were " Tottenham Court Meg," the " Ballad- 
 singing Cobler," and " oulde Guy, the poet." Mr. Catnach, another noted printer 
 of ballads, lived in Seven Dials ; and at his death, left a considerable fortune. He 
 was the first ballad-printer who published yards of song? for one penny, in former days 
 the price of a single ballad ; and here he accumulated the largest stock on record of 
 whole sheets, last-dying speeches, ballads, and other wares of the flying stationers. 
 Another noted ballad-printer and ballad-monger kept shop in Long-lane, Smithfield. 
 
 BEAR AND BULL BAITING. A map of London, three centuries ago, gives the 
 " Spitel Field" for archers ; " Fynsburie Fyeld," with " Dogge's House," for the 
 citizens to hunt in ; " Moore Fyeld," with marks, as if used by clothiers ; " the Banck" 
 by the side of the river; " the Bolle Bating Theatre," near the " Beare Baitynge 
 House," nigh where London Bridge now commences. Pepys describes a visit to the 
 " beare-garden" in 1666, where he saw " some good sport of the bull's tossing of the 
 dogs, one into the very boxes. But it is a very rude and nasty pleasure." Hockley- 
 in-the-hole, Clerkenwell, was styled " His Majesty's Bear-Garden" in 1700, and was 
 the scene of bull and bear-baiting, wrestling, and boxing; but it was neglected for 
 Figg's Amphitheatre, in Oxford-road : 
 
 " Long liv'd the great Figtr, by the prize-fighting swains 
 Sole monarch acknowledged of Marybone plains." 
 
 At Tothill Fields, Westminster, was in 1793, a noted bear-garden, a portion of 
 which now forms Vincent-square ; and bear-baiting and rat-hunting lingered in their 
 Westminster haunts longer than elsewhere. 
 
 BOWLS was formerly a popular game in the metropolis : it succeeded archery 
 before Stow's time, when many gardens of the City and its suburbs were converted 
 into bowling-alleys ; our author, in 1579, wrote : " Common bowling-alleyes are privy 
 mothes that eat up the credit of many idle citizens, whose gaynes at home are not 
 able to weigh downe theyr losses abroad ;" elsewhere he says : " Our bowes are 
 turned into bowls." The game of bowls, however, is as old as the 13th century, and 
 in the country was played upon greens ; but the alleys required less room, and were 
 covered over, so that the game could be played therein all weathers, whence they 
 became greatly multiplied in London. Bowls was played by Henry VIII., who added 
 to Whitehall " tennise-courtes, bowling-alleys, and a cock-pit." , 
 
 Spring Garden, Charing-cross, had its ordinary and bowling-green kept by a servant 
 of Charles the First's Court ; and Piccadilly Hall, at the corner of Windmill-street and 
 Coventry-street, had its upper and lower bowling-greens. 
 
 The grave John Locke, in one of his private journals (1679), records " bowling at 
 Marebone and Putney by persons of quality ; wrestling in Lincoln's Inn Fields on 
 summer evenings ; bear and bull baiting at the Bear-Garden ; shooting in the long-bow 
 and stob-ball in Tothill Fields." 
 
 In the last century, Bowls was much played in the suburbs, especially at Marybone 
 
 Gardens, mentioned by Pepys in 1668 as " a pretty place." Its bowling-greens were 
 
 frequented by the nobility, among whom was Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, to whose 
 
 partiality for the game Lady Mary Wortley Montague refers in the oft-quoted line 
 
 " Some dukes at Marybone bowl time away." 
 
 The place grew into disrepute, and was closed in 1777 ; it is made by Gay a scene 
 of Macheath's debauchery in the Beggar's Opera. 
 
 Greens remain attached to a few old taverns round London. In the town, bowling 
 alleys were abolished in the last century, and gave rise to long-bowling, or bowling in
 
 12 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 a narrow inclosure at nine-pins upon a square frame. They have been succeeded by 
 the American bowling alley, sometimes in the cellar of the tavern. 
 
 Bowling- street, Westminster, commemorates the spot where the members of the 
 Convent of St. Peter amused themselves at bowls. We have also Bowling-street in 
 Marylebone and Turnmill-street ; Bowling-green-lane in Clerkenwell and Southwark j 
 Bowling-green-buildings, Bryanston-square ; and Bowling-green-walk at Hoxton. 
 
 CARD-PLAYING would appear to have become early a favourite pastime with the 
 Londoners ; for in 1643 a law was passed on a petition of the cardmakers of the City, 
 prohibiting the importation of playing-cards. It was a very fashionable Court amuse- 
 ment in the reign of Henry VII. ; and so general, that it became necessary to prohibit 
 by law apprentices from using cards, except in the Christmas holydays, and then only 
 in their masters' houses. Agreeable to this privilege, Stow, speaking of the customs at 
 London, says : " From Allhallow-eve to the day following Candlemas-day, there was, 
 among other sports, playing at cards, for counters, nails, and points, in every house, 
 more for pastime than for gayne." Basset was a fashionable card-game at the end of 
 the 17 th century ; and Basset-tokens are preserved : 
 
 " Who the bowl or rattling dice compares 
 To Basset's heavenly joys and pleasing cares?" Pope's Eclogue Basset-table. 
 
 Whist, in its present state, was not played till about 1730, when it was much studied 
 by a set of gentlemen at the Crown Coffee-house in Bedford-row. Gaming in public 
 was formerly a royal pastime at Christmas : George I. and George II. played, on certain 
 days, at hazard, at the Groom-porter's, in St. James's Palace; and this was continued 
 some time in the reign of George III. The name of " hells," applied in our clay 
 to gambling-houses, originated in the room in St. James's Palace formerly appropriated 
 to hazard being remarkably dark, and on that account called " hell." (Theodore Hook.) 
 A few years ago there were more of those infamous places" of resort in London than in 
 any other city in the world. The handsome gas-lamp and the gree^n or red baize door 
 at the end of the passage were conspicuous in the vicinity of St. James's ; and of St. 
 George's, Hanover-square; and the moral nuisances still linger about St. James's 
 parish and Leicester-square. 
 
 COCK-FIGHTING- was a London pastime 1190, and very fashionable from the reign 
 of Edward III. almost to our time. Henry VIII. added a cock-pit to Whitehall Palace, 
 where James I. went to see the sport twice a week ; this pit being upon the site of the 
 present Privy Council Office : hence the Cockpit Gate, built by Holbein, across the road 
 at Whitehall. Besides this Royal Cockpit, there was formerly a Cockpit in Drury-larie, 
 now corrupted to Pitt-place, and there was the Cockpit or Phoenix Theatre. There 
 were other Cockpits, in Jewin-street, Cripplegate, Tufton-street, whence the Cock- 
 pit Yards there; another in Shoe-lane, temp. James I., whence Cockpit-court in 
 that neighbourhood ; and another noted Cockpit was " behind Gray's Inn." Hogarth's 
 print best illustrates the brutal refinement of the Cock-fighting of the last century ; 
 and the barbarous sport was, we believe, last encouraged at Westminster, not far dis- 
 tant from the spot, where in kindred pastime, Royalty relieved the weighty cares of 
 State. The famous Westminster cock-pit was in Park-street. Cock-fighting is now 
 forbidden and punishable by statute. 
 
 CRICKET is stated to have been played at Finsbury, in the Royal Artillery Ground, 
 before the year 1746. Some thirty years later, in 1774, a committee of noblemen and 
 gentlemen was formed, under the presidency of Sir William Draper ; they met at the 
 Star and Garter in Pall Mall, and laid down the first rules of Cricket, which rules form 
 the basis of the laws of Cricket to this day. The next great step was the establishment 
 of the White Conduit Club, in the year 1799 ; and among its members, in addition to 
 the before-named patron of the game, we find the names of Lord Wincbilsea, Lord 
 Strathaven, and Sir P. Burrell. Their place of meeting was still the Star and Garter, 
 and their Ground was in White Conduit-fields. One of the attendants, Thomas Lord, 
 was persuaded to take a ground ; and under the patronage of the old White Conduit 
 Club, a new club, called the Marylebone Club, was formed at " Lord's Cricket Ground," 
 which was the site of the present Dorset-square. Lord's Ground is now in St. John's-
 
 AMUSEME2FF8. 
 
 wood-road, and is about 7^ acres in extent, and devoted almost exclusively, in May, 
 June, and July, to the matches and practice of the Marylebone Club; at the annual 
 meeting, early in May, the Laws of Cricket are revised, and matches for the season 
 arranged. Attached to Lord's Ground are a Tennis Court and Baths. Here is an old 
 painting of the game, in which the bat has the bend of the club, which, it is thought, 
 denotes Cricket to have been a gradual improvement of the Club and, Sail. Amongst 
 the other principal Cricket-grounds are the Oval (larger than Lord's) at Kennington : 
 the Royal Artillery Ground, Finsbury, is, perhaps, the oldest ground in London ; for 
 here a match was played between Kent and All England in 1746. There was for- 
 merly a ground in Copenhagen-fields ; there is one at the Brecknock Arms, Camden- 
 town ; at Brixton, near the church ; the Middlesex County, Islington Cattle Market, 
 Tufnell Park, Highbury ; Victoria Park, Battersea Park ; Rosemary Branch, Peckham ; 
 Crystal Palace, Sydenham ; Sluice House, Hornsey ; Primrose Hill ; Vincent-square, 
 Westminster ; and at Bow, Mill wall, and Putney. Of the younger London clubs is 
 the Civil Service, consisting exclusively of members of the Civil Service. 
 
 DrrCK-HtrjfTiNO with dogs was a barbarous pastime of the last century in the 
 neighbourhood of London, happily put an end to by the want of ponds of water. St. 
 George's Fields was a notorious place for this sport ; hence the infamous Dog and 
 Duck Tavern and Tea Gardens, from a noted dog which hunted ducks on a sheet of 
 water there : Hannah More makes it a favourite resort of her Cheapside Apprentice. 
 The premises were afterwards let to the School for the Indigent Blind, and were taken 
 down in 1812, when Bethlern Hospital was built upon the site; in its front wall is 
 preserved the original sign-stone of the tavern a dog with a duck thrown across its 
 back. Ingenious lesson this in setting up a memorial of profligacy and cruelty upon 
 a site devoted to the restoration of reason ! Duck-hunting was also one of the low 
 sports of the butchers of Shepherd's Market, at May Fair, where, to this day, is a spot 
 known as the " duck -hunting pond;" and within memory, on the site of Hertford- 
 street, was the Dog and Duck publichouse, with its ducking-pond, boarded up knee- 
 high and shaded by willows. 
 
 EQUESTRIANISM appears to have been a favourite amusement with the Londoners for 
 more than a century past. One of the first performers was Thomas Johnson, who 
 exhibited in a field behind the Three Hats, at Islington, in 1758 ; he was succeeded 
 by one Sampson, in 1767, whose wife was the first female equestrian performer in 
 England. In the same year, rode one Price at D'Aubigny's, or Dobney's Gardens, 
 nearly opposite the Belvedere Tavern, Pentonville, and where Wildman exhibited his 
 docile bees, in 1772 ; the site is at this day marked by Dobney's-place. 
 
 About this time Hughes established himself in St. George's Fields, and Astley in 
 "Westminster-bridge-road; the latter was succeeded by Ducrow and Batty. Horses 
 in England were taught dancing as early as the 13th century ; but the first mention of 
 feats on horseback occurs in the Privy Purse expenses of Henry VIII. 
 
 FAXES. The three great Fairs of old London belonged, in Catholic times, to the 
 heads of religious houses : Westminster to its abbot ; and St. Bartholomew and South- 
 wark (or St. Mary Overie, as it is oftener called), to the Priors of those monasteries. 
 
 Westminster, or St. Edward's Fair (held on that Saint's Day), was commanded by 
 proclamation of Edward III., in 1248 ; it was first held in St. Margaret's churchyard, 
 and then was removed to Tothill-fields, where the Fair continued to be held, but of 
 considerably less extent, so lately as 1823. 
 
 Two Fairs were held in Smithfield at Bartholomew-tide : that within the Priory 
 precincts was one of the great Cloth Fairs of England : the other, Bartholomew Fair, 
 was held in the Field, and granted to the City of London, for cattle and goods. The 
 latter was proclaimed, for the last time, in the year 1855. 
 
 Southwark Fair was held on St. Margaret's-hill, on the day after Bartholomew 
 Fair ; and was by charter limited to three days, but usually lasted fourteen. Evelyn 
 records among its wonders, monkeys and asses dancing on the tight rope ; and the tricks 
 of an Italian wench, whom all the Court went to see. Pepys tells of its puppet-shows, 
 especially that of Whittington ; and of Jacob Hall's dancing on the ropes. The Fair 
 was suppressed in 1762; but it lives in one of Hogarth's prints.
 
 14 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 St. James's Fair, held in the month of May, in Brook Field, acquired the name of 
 " M;iy Fair." It was abolished in 1709 ; but was revived, and was not finally sup- 
 pressed until late in the reign of George III. It gave the fashionable quarter in which 
 it was held the name of May Fair ; and the Brook to Brook-street. 
 
 FIREWORKS, for pastime, are rarely spoken of previous to the reign of Elizabeth ; 
 when the foyste, or galley, with a great red dragon, and " wilde men casting of five," 
 accompanied the Lord Mayor's barge upon the Thames. A writer in the reign of 
 James I. assures us there were then " abiding in the City of London men very skilful in 
 the art of pyrotechnic, or of fireworkes ;" which were principally displayed by persons 
 fantastically dressed, and called Green Men. In the last century, the train of Artillery 
 displayed annually a grand firework upon Tower-hill on the evening of his Majesty's 
 birthday. Fireworks were exhibited regularly at Mary bone Gardens and at Ranelagh; 
 not at Vauxhall until 1798, and then but occasionally. At Bermondsey Spa, and va- 
 rious tea-gardens, they were also displayed, but in inferior style. Fireworks were first 
 exhibited at the Surrey Zoological Gardens, in illustration of picture-models ; and similar 
 galas at Cremorne Gardens, Chelsea, have been very successful. 
 
 There have been some grand Firework displays at the Government expense : as in 
 the Green Park at the Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, in 1748; and on August 1, 1811, in 
 celebration of the general Peace, and the Centenary of the accession of the Brunswick 
 family to the British throne, these fireworks being by Sir William Congreve, of 
 rocket celebrity. There have been similar firework galas in Hyde Park at coro- 
 nations and Peace celebrations. At the coronation of King William IV. and Queen 
 Adelaide, Sept. 1831, the amount expended for fireworks, and for keeping open the 
 public theatres, was 3034-J. 18s. Id. 
 
 FOOTBALL was played in the twelfth century by the youth of the City in the fields ; 
 and five centuries later, we find football players in Cheapside, Covent Garden, and the 
 Strand ; Moorfields and Lincoln's Inn Fields. There is an old print of football play 
 in Fleet-street. 
 
 HUNTING. " The Common Hunt" dates from a charter granted by Henry I. to the 
 citizens to "have chaces, and hunts:" and Strype, so late as the reign of George I., 
 reckons among the modern amusements of the Londoners " riding on horseback, and 
 hunting with my Lord Mayor's hounds, when the Common Hunt goes out." The 
 Epping Hunt was appointed from a similar charter granted to the citizens. Strype 
 describes a visitation of the Lord Mayor Harper, and other civic authorities, to the 
 Tyburn Conduits, in 1562, when " afore dinner they hunted the hare and killed her," 
 at the end of St. Giles's, with great hallooing and blowing of horns. Much later, the 
 Lord Mayor and Aldermen enjoyed this sport on Easter Monday, when a stag was 
 turned out. The kennel for the hounds, and a house adjoining, was rebuilt about 1800. 
 The officer of the Common Hunt has not long been abolished in the Lord Mayor's 
 household ; the " hunt" exists but in the verse of Tom D'Urfey, or Thomas Hood. 
 
 Poaching was common in the metropolis three centuries since ; for, in a proclamation 
 of Henry VIII., 1546 (preserved in the library of the Society of Antiquaries), the King 
 is desirous to have the " Games of Hare, Partridge, Pheasant, and Heron," preserved 
 from Westminster palace to St. Giles's-in-the-F5elds, &c. 
 
 MASQUERADES were introduced into England from Italy in 1512-13, by Henry VIII. 
 They were frequent among the citizens at the Restoration. In 1717-18, a very 
 splendid masquerade was given at the Opera House by Heidegger, at which there was 
 high play with heaps of guineas. Soon after the bishops preached against these amuse- 
 ments, which led to their suppression, 9 George I., 1723. They were, however, revived, 
 and carried to shameful excess by connivance of the Government, and in direct viola- 
 tion of the laws. During the food-riots, in 1772, there was given at the Pantheon, 
 Oxford-street, a masquerade, in which 10,000 guineas were expended by the revellers 
 in dress and other luxuries : Oliver Goldsmith masqueraded there in " an old English 
 dress." At the Pantheon, in 1783, a masquerade was got up by Delpini, the famous 
 clown, in celebration of the Prince of Wales attaining his majority ; tickets, three
 
 AMUSEMENTS. 15 
 
 guineas each. In the same year Garrick attended a masked fete at the Pantheon as 
 King of the Gipsies. But the most eccentric entrepreneur was Madame Teresa 
 Cornelys, "the Heidegger of the age," who, at Carlisle House, Soho-square, gave 
 masquerades in extravagant style, and was soon ruined. These entertainments were 
 never encouraged by George III., at whose request Foote abstained from giving a 
 masquerade at the Little Theatre in the Haymarket. At Eanelagh they were given 
 occasionally. At the Opera House and Argyle Rooms, masquerades were given ; and 
 at Drury-lane and Covent Garden Theatres : towards the close of a masquerade, or 
 masked ball, May 5, 1856, the latter theatre was entirely destroyed by fire. 
 
 MAYINGS AXD MAT-GAMES were celebrated by " the citizens of London of all 
 estates" with Maypoles and warlike shows, " with good archers, morrice-dancers, and 
 other devices for pastime, all day long ; and towards evening they had stage-plays and 
 bonfires in the streets." The games were presided over by the Lord and Lady of the 
 May, decorated with scarves, ribbons, and other finery ; to which were added Robin 
 Hood and Maid Marian. May-poles were regularly erected in many parts of London 
 on Mayday morning ; as in Leadenhall-street, before the south door of St. Andrew's 
 Church, therefore called Under Shaft ; this pole being referred to by Chaucer as " the 
 great Shaft of Cornhill :" it was higher than the church-steeple (91 feet). After Evil 
 Mayday, 1517, this pole was, in 1549, sawn into pieces, and burnt as " an idol." 
 Another celebrated Maypole was that placed in the Strand, upon the site of the present 
 church of St. Mary: this pole was 134 feet high, and was set up with great pomp and 
 festivity in 1661 j it was broken with a high wind a few years after. Opposite is Maypole- 
 alley, at the top of which and over against the gate of Craven House, were the lodgings 
 of Nell Gwyn ; and Mr. Peter Cunningham, in his piquant Story of Nell, says : " This 
 Maypole, long a conspicuous ornament to the West-end of London, rose to a great 
 height above the surrounding houses, and was surmounted by a crown and vane, and 
 the royal arms richly gilded." Stow tells us that this pole was put up by the farrier, 
 Clarges, to commemorate his daughter's good fortune of arriving to the dignity of 
 Duchess of Albemarle, by being married to General Monk, when he was a private 
 gentleman. The Maypole being grown old and damaged, was, in 1717, obtained by 
 Sir Isaac Newton (who then lived in St. Martin's-street, Leicester-fields), and being 
 taken down was carried away to Wanstead, in Essex ; there it was placed in Sir Richard 
 Child's park, for raising a telescope, the largest in the world, stated to have belonged 
 to Newton's friend, Mr. Pound, rector of Wanstead, to whom it had been presented by 
 M. Hugon, a French member of the Royal Society. Another famous Maypole stood in 
 Basing-lane : Stow described it as a large fir-pole, which reached to the roof of Gerard's 
 Hall Inn, and was fabled to be the justice-staff of Gerard the giant, of whom a carved 
 wood figure stood by the gate until the demolition of the inn in 1852. There are 
 other places in London which indicate the site of Maypoles : as Maypole-alley, St. 
 Margaret's-hill, Southwark; and Maypole-alley, from the north side of Wych-street 
 into Stanhope-street. In the Beaufoy Collection are two tokens : one Nat. Child, 
 " near y e May poal, in y e Strand, Grocer " and Philip Complin, " at the Maypole in 
 the Strand, Distiller," and the Maypole, with some small building attached. 
 
 THE PAEKS had their pastimes upwards of two centuries ago. The French game of 
 Faille-mail (striking a ball with a wooden mallet through an iron ring) was introduced 
 in the reign of Charles I. Skating was first brought into vogue in England on the new- 
 canal in St. James's Park : Evelyn enters it, 1st Dec., J 662, " with scheets after the 
 manner of the Hollanders." Pepys records, 10th Aug. 1664, Lords Castlehaven and 
 Arran running down and killing a stout buck in St. James's Park, for a wager, before 
 the King; and Evelyn enters, 19th Feb. 1666-67, a wrestling-match for 1000/. in 
 St. James's Park, before his Majesty, a world of lords, and other spectators, 'twixt the 
 western and northern men, when the former won. At this time there were in the 
 park Hocks of wild-fowl breeding about the Decoy, antelopes, an elk, red-deer, roe- 
 bucks, stags, Guinea fowls, Arabian sheep, &c. : and here Charles II. might be seen 
 playing with his dogs and feeding his ducks. Birdcage Walk was named from the 
 aviary established there in the reign of James I., and the decoy made there in tho 
 reign of Charles II.
 
 16 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Hyde Park was formerly much celebrated for its deer-hunts, foot and horse races, 
 musters and coach-races, boxing-matches, and Mayings. 
 
 PKISON BARS, OB BASE, is as old as the reign of Edward III., when it was, by 
 proclamation, prohibited to be played in the avenues of the Palace at Westminster 
 during the session of Parliament, from its interruption of the members and others 
 in passing to and fro. About 1780, a grand match at base was played in the fields be- 
 hind Montagu House, by twelve gentlemen of Cheshire against twelve of Derbyshire, 
 for a considerable stake. 
 
 " PUNCH" has for nearly two centuries delighted the Londoner ; there being entries 
 of Punchinello's Booth at Charing-cross, 1666, in the Overseers' Books of St. 
 Martin's-in-the-Fields. (Cunningham's Handbook, 2nd edit.) Punch's costume closely 
 resembles the Elizabethan peasecod-bellied doublets. Covent Garden was another of 
 Punch's early " pitches," where Powell's performances thinned the congregation in St. 
 Paul's Church, as we learn from No. 14 of the Spectator ; and in 1711-12, he lessened 
 the receipts at the Opera and the national theatres : the showman worked the wires, 
 and " by a thread in one of Punch's chops, gave to him the appearance of animation." 
 Such was the olden contrivance : at present the puppets are played by putting the 
 hand under the dress, and making the middle finger and thumb serve for the arms, 
 while the forefinger works the head. Mr. Windham, when one of the Secretaries of 
 State, on his way from Downing-street to the House of Commons, was seen to stop 
 and enjoy the whimsicalities of Punch. 
 
 " We are never ashamed of being caught gazing at Punch," wrote Albert Smith. 
 In 1828, George Cruikshank produced his grotesque etchings of Punch, to illustrate 
 Mr, Payne Collier's very agreeable volume, Punch and Judy. Haydon painted Punch, 
 with Hogarthian humour, in 1829 ; and Webster, 11. A., painted with equal humour 
 " Punch in the Country," in 1840. 
 
 Street Shows and Performers have become very numerous in the present day. Such are Punch. 
 Fantoccini, Chinese Shades, and Galantee Shows ; jugglers, conjurors, balancers, posturers, stiff 
 tumblers, pole-balancers, salamanders or fire-eaters, and sword and snake followers ; street dancers ; 
 and performances of trained animals, as dancing dogs, acting birds, and mice. The street musicians 
 include brass and other bands, Ethiopians, farm-yard fiddlers, horse organs, Italian organ-boys, hurdy- 
 gurdy players, blind and crippled fiddlers, and violoncello and clarionet players. Next are the peep- 
 showmen and the proprietors of giants, dwarves, industrious fleas, alligators, " happy families," and 
 glass ships ; together with street telescopes, microscopes, thaumascopes, and weighing, lifting, and 
 measuring machines. Porsini and Pike were celebrated Punch exhibitors; the former is said to have 
 frequently taken 101. a day ; but he died in St. Giles' workhouse. A set of Punch figures costs about 
 151., and the show about 31. The speaking is done by a " call," made of two curved pieces of metal 
 about the size of a knee-buckle, bound together with black thread, and between them is a thin metal 
 plate. Porsini used a trumpet. The present artists maintain that "Punch is exempt from the 
 Police Act." The most profitable performance is that in houses ; and Punch's best season is in the 
 spring, and at Christmas and Midsummer : the best " pitches " in London are Leicester-square, Regent- 
 street (corner of New Burlington-street), Oxford Market, and Belgrave-square. There are sixteen 
 Punch and Judy frames in England, eight of which work in London. Fantoccini are puppets, which, 
 with frame, cost about \Ql. Chinese Sha.de> consist of a frame like Punch's, with a transparent curtain 
 and movable figures ; shown only at night, with much dialogue. Selected from a Letter by Henry 
 Mayhew ; Morning Chronicle, May 16, 1850. 
 
 Punch has not, however, been always a mere puppet : for we read of a farce called 
 " Punch turned Schoolmaster ;" and in 1841, was commenced " Punch ; or, the London 
 Charivari," which under excellent editorship has effected considerable moral service.* 
 
 PUPPET-SHOWS were common at the suburban fairs in the early part of the last cen- 
 tury ; they also competed with the larger theatres, until they were superseded by the 
 revival of Pantomimes. But the Italian Fantoccini was popular early in the present 
 century. The puppet-showman, with his box upon his back, is now rarely seen in the 
 street, but we have the artist of Punch, with his theatre. Clockwork figures appeared 
 early in the last century. In the reign of Queen Anne, a celebrated show of this kind 
 was exhibited at the great house in the Strand over against the Globe Tavern, near 
 Hungerford Market. A saraband, danced with castanets, and tin-owing balls and 
 knives alternately into the air and catching them as they fall, with catching oranges 
 upon forks, formed part of the puppet-showman's exhibition. 
 
 * In a 14th-century manuscript of the French romance of Alexander, in the Bodleian Library, is an 
 illumination of Punch's show, the figures closely resembling the modern Punch and Judy.
 
 AMU8EMENTB. 17 
 
 Men and monkeys dancing upon ropes, or walking upon wires; dogs dancing 
 minuets, pigs arranging letters so as to form words at their master's command, hares 
 beating drums, or birds firing off cannons these were favourite exhibitions early in 
 the last century. Raree-shows, ladder-dancing, and posturing, are also of this date. 
 
 RACKETS is nearly coeval with Tennis, which it so much resembles ; Rackets being 
 striking a ball against a wall, and Tennis dropping a ball over a central net. There 
 are Racket-grounds at the Belvedere, Pentonville ; at the Tennis Court, Haymarket ; 
 and at Prince's Club Racquets Courts, Chelsea. Rackets was also much played in the 
 Fleet Prison, taken down in 18-41; in the Queen's Bench Prison; and at Copenhagen 
 House, St. Pancras. 
 
 SALT-BOX Music will be remembered by the middle-aged reader. It was played 
 with a rolling-pin and salt-box beaten together, the noise being modulated so as to 
 resemble a sort of music. It was formerly played by Merry Andrews, at country fairs. 
 Bonnel Thornton composed a burlesque Ode on St. Cecilia's Day, which Dr. Burney, 
 in 1769, set for Smart and Newbury. It was performed at Ranelagh, by masks : 
 Beard sang the salt-box song, which was admirably accompanied on that instrument 
 by Brent, the fencing-master ; Skeggs, on the broomstick, as bassoon ; and a remark- 
 able performance on the Jew's harp. Cleavers were cast in bell-metal for this enter- 
 tainment. All the performers of the Old Woman's Oratory, employed by Foote, were 
 engaged at Ranelagh on this occasion. Price, landlord of the Green Man, formerly 
 the Farthing Pye-house, was a famous salt-box player. 
 
 SKITTLES, corrupted from kayles of the fourteenth century, and afterwards kettle, 
 or kettle-pins, was much played in and near London until 1780, when the magistrates 
 abolished all Skittle-grounds. To this succeeded Nine-holes, or " Bubble-the-justice," 
 on the supposition that it could not be set aside by the justices, as it was not named in 
 the prohibitory statutes : it is now called " Bumble-puppy," and the vulgarity of the 
 term is characteristic of the company who play it. Nine-pins, Dutch-pins, and Four- 
 corners are but variations of Skittles ; which games originated in the covering of open 
 grounds in London and its neighbourhood with houses. 
 
 TEA GAKDENS were the favourite resorts of the middle classes in the last century ; 
 and, in most cases, they succeeded the promenade at mineral springs. Such was 
 Bagnigge Wells, Battle Bridge-road, taken down a few years since : we remember its 
 concert-room and organ, its- grottoes and fountains, and grotesque figures, and bust of 
 Nell Gwynne, who is traditionally stated to have resided here. Next were 
 Sadler's Wells Music House, before it became a theatre ; Tunbridge Wells, or 
 Islington Spa ; and the Three Hats, at Islington, mentioned in BickerstafPs comedy 
 of the Hypocrite : the house remained a tavern until 1839, when it was taken down. 
 White Conduit House, Pentonville, was originally a small ale and cake house, built in 
 the fields, in the reign of Charles I., and named from a conduit in an adjoining meadow. 
 An association of Protestant Dissenters, formed in the reign of Queen Anne, met at 
 this house : the Wheal Pond, close by, was a famous place for duck-hunting ; Sir 
 William Davenant describes a city wife going to the fields to " sop her cake in milk ;" 
 and Goldsmith speaks of tea-drinking parties, with hot rolls and butter, at White 
 Conduit House. A description of the place in 1774. presents a general picture of the 
 Tea Garden of that period : " The garden is formed into walks, prettily disposed. At 
 the end of the principal one is a painting, which seems to render it (the walk) longer 
 in appearance than it really is. In the centre of the garden is a fish pond. There 
 are boxes for company, curiously cut into hedges, adorned with Flemish and other 
 paintings. There are two handsome tea-rooms, one over the other, and several inferior 
 ones in the house." The fish-pond was soon after filled up, and its site planted, the 
 paintings removed, and a new dancing and tea saloon, called the Apollo-room, built. 
 In 1826, the gardens were opened as a " Minor Vauxhall ;" and here Mrs. Bland, the 
 charming vocalist, last sang in public. In 1829, the small house, the original tavern, 
 was taken down, and rebuilt upon a more extensive plan, so as to dine upwards of 2000 
 persons in its largest room. But in 1849 these premises were also taken down ; the 
 tavern was re-erected on a smaller scale, and the garden-ground let on building leases, 
 for White Conduit-street, &c. 
 
 o
 
 18 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Next we reach Highbury, where originally stood the JBarn of the Monks of Clerken- 
 well : hence the old name of the Tavern, Highbury Barn. In the fields, opposite 
 Pentonville Prison, was Copenhagen House (Coopen Hagen, in Camden's Britannia, 
 1695), first opened by a Dane. In Islington there remain the Canonbury Tea 
 Gardens, a very old resort (the tavern has been rebuilt) ; and in Barnsbury remains 
 an old tea-garden. Hoxton had also several tea-gardens. 
 
 Toten Hall, at the north-west extremity of Tottenham-court-road, was the ancient 
 court-house of that manor, and subsequently a place of public entertainment. In the 
 parish books of St. Giles's-in-the-Fields, year 1645, is an entry of Mrs. Stacye's maid 
 and others being fined " for drinking at Tottenhall Court on the Sabbath dale, xijcil. 
 a-piece." The premises next became the Adam and Eve Tea Gardens : before the 
 house is laid the scene of Hogarth's March to Finchley ; and in the grounds, May 16, 
 1785, Lunardi fell with his burst balloon, and was but slightly injured. The Gardens 
 were much frequented ; but the place falling into disrepute, the music-house was taken 
 down, and upon the site of the Skittle-grounds and Gardens was built Eden-street, 
 Hampstead-road, the public-house being rebuilt. 
 
 Chalk Farm, corrupted from the old village of Chalcot, shown in Camden's map, was 
 another noted tea-garden. This was " the White House," to which, in 1678, the body 
 of Sir Edmund Berry Godfrey was carried, after it had been found, about two fields 
 distant, upon the south side of Primrose Hill. Several duels have been fought here : 
 here John Scott (of the London Magazine'), was shot by Mr. Christie, Feb. 16, 1821 ; 
 and the poet Moore, and Jeffrey, of the 'Edinburgh Revieiu, met in 1806. Chalk Farm 
 now gives name to the railway station here. 
 
 The above were the most celebrated Tea-gardens north and north-west of London. 
 Westward lay Marybone Gardens, open for public breakfasts and evening concerts to 
 high-class company ; fireworks being added. In 1777-8 these gardens were shut up, 
 and the site let to builders ; the ground being now occupied by Beaumontand Devon- 
 shire streets, and part of Devonshire-place. Next were the Bayswater Gardens, 
 once the " Physic Garden " of Sir John Hill ; and Ranelagh, the costly rival 
 of Vauxhall, as well as a Tea-garden in the present century. Mulberry Garden, upon 
 the present site of Buckingham Palace and its gardens, dated from temp. Charles I. 
 Pimlico was noted for its tea-gardens and ale to our day : the Gun Tea Gardens, 
 Queen's-row, with its arbours and grotesque figures, were the last to disappear: 
 here were the Dwarf Tavern and Gardens ; the Star and Garter, Five-fields-row, 
 famous for its equestrianism, fireworks, and dancing; and the Orange, upon the site of 
 St. Barnabas Church. Here, too, was New Ranelagh ; and Jenny's Whim, Bowling- 
 green, and gardens, the site now covered by St. George's-row : it was opened temp. 
 George I. for fireworks ; and it had its duck-hunting pond, alcoves, and character figures, 
 and was much frequented for bull-baiting in the adjoining fields. Knightsbridge was noted 
 for its Spring Gardens, and houses of entertainment. Southward were Cumberland 
 Gardens and Assembly Rooms, the site now occupied by Price's Candle Company's 
 Works, Vauxhall Bridge ; Spring Garden, Vauxhall ; the Dog and Duck, and Apollo 
 Gardens, St. George's Fields ; and Cuper's Gardens, through the site of which runs 
 Waterloo-bridge-road. Bermondsey had its Spa Gardens in the Grange-road; and 
 Cupid's Gardens upon Jacob's Island, the ill-fated locality in which the cholera (1848-9) 
 first broke out in the metropolis, and where it lingered last. 
 
 Few of these old Tea Gardens remain. In the increase of London within the last 
 half-century, the environs have lost their suburban character, and have become part 
 of the great town itself; and steamboats and railways now, for very small sums, convey 
 the over- worked artisan out of its murky atmosphere into pure air and rural scenery. 
 
 TENNIS, from the French Hand-ball or Palm-play, was played in London in the six- 
 teenth century, in covered courts erected for the purpose. Henry VII. and VIII. were 
 fond of Tennis ; and the latter added to the palace of Whitehall " tennise-courts." 
 James I. recommended Tennis to his son, as becoming a prince. Charles II. was an 
 accomplished Tennis-player, and had particular dresses for playing in. We have a 
 relic of these times in the Tennis-court in James-street, Haymarket, which bears the 
 date 1676, and was formerly attached to the gaming-house, or Shavers' Hall. la
 
 APOLLONICON ARCADES. 19 
 
 Windmill-street was another Tennis-court, which belonged to Piccadilly Hall, also a 
 gaming-house. Another famous Tennis-court was Gibbon's, in Clare Market, where 
 Ivilligrew's comedians performed for some time. There are in Holborn, Blackfriars, 
 and Southwark thoroughfares kuowii as " Tennis-courts," denoting the game to have 
 been formerly played there. 
 
 THAMES SPOETS. Fitzstephen relates of the ancient Londoners fighting " battles on 
 Easter holidays on the water, by striking a shield with a lance." There was also a 
 kind of water tournament, in which the two combatants, standing in two wherries, 
 rowed and ran against each other, and fought with staves and shields. In the game 
 of the Water Quintain the shield was fixed upon a post in the river, and the champion, 
 stationed in a boat, struck the shield with a lance. Jousting upon the ice was likewise 
 practised by the young Londoners. Each mansion upon the Thames bank had its 
 private retinue of barge and wherry, and the sovereign a gilded and tapestried 
 barge. There were also public boats, with gay awnings, for tea-parties. All this gay 
 water-pageantry has disappeared, including the state barges of the Sovereign and the 
 Admiralty, the Lord Mayor, and a few of the wealthier of the City companies. In 
 1850, the old Barge of the Goldsmiths' Company was let at Richmond, " for Pic-nic, 
 Wedding, and Birthday Parties," at 51. 5s. per day. The great civic barge, the 
 3Iaria Wood, is likewise let for similar occasions. 
 
 Of Boat-races, the oldest is that for Dogget's Coat and Badge, on August 1 : the 
 prizes are distributed by the Fishmongers' Company. We have also Regattas and 
 Sailing Matches, to aid in the enjoyment of which steamers are employed. 
 
 THEATRES originated in Miracle Plays, such as were acted in fields and open places 
 and inn-yards. The playhouse dates from the age of Elizabeth ; and between 1570 
 and 1629, London had seventeen theatres. (See THEATEES.) 
 
 APOLLONICON, THE. 
 
 A CHAMBER-ORGAN of vast power, supplied with both keys and barrels, was 
 built by Messrs. Flight and Robson, of 101, St. Martin's-lane, and first exhibited by 
 them at their manufactory in 1817. The denomination is formed from Apollon, and 
 the Greek termination icon. 
 
 "The Apollonicon," says a contemporary description, "is either self-acting, by means of machinery, 
 or may be played on by keys. The music, when the organ is worked by machinery, is pinned on three 
 cylinders or barrels, each acting on a distinct division of the instrument; and these, in their revolution, 
 not only admit air to the pipes, but actually regulate and work the stops, forming, by an instantaneous 
 action, all the necessary combinations. The key-boards are five in number ; the central and largest 
 comprising five octaves, and the smaller ones, of which two are placed on each side the larger, two 
 octaves each. To the central key-board are attached a swell and some compound pedals, enabling the 
 performer to produce all the changes and variety of effect that the music may require. There is also a 
 key-board, comprising two octaves of other pedals, operating on the largest pipes of the instrument. 
 There are 1900 pipes, the largest twenty-four feet in length, and one foot eleven inches in aperture, 
 being eight feet longer than the corresponding pipe in the great organ at Haarlem. The number of 
 stops is forty-five, and these in their combinations afford very good imitations of the various wind 
 instruments used in an orchestra. Two kettle-drums, struck by a curious contrivance in the machinery, 
 are, with the other mechanism, inclosed in a case twenty-four feet high, embellished with pilasters, 
 and paintings of Apollo, Clio, and Erato." 
 
 This magnificent instrument performed Mozart's overtures to the Zaulerflote, Figaro, 
 and Idomeneo ; Beethoven's Prometheus ; Weber's to the Freischuiz and Oberon ; 
 Cherubini's to Anacreon, &c., without omitting a single note of the score, and with all 
 the fortes and pianos, the crescendoes and diminuendoes, as directed by the composers, 
 with an accuracy that no band can possibly exceed, and very few can reasonably hope 
 to rival. The Apollonicon was five years in building, and at an expense of about 
 10,0001., under the patronage of George IV. Its performances were popular for many 
 years. 
 
 ARCADES. 
 
 ONLY a few of these covered passages (series of arches on insulated piers) have 
 been constructed in London ; although Paris contains upwards of twenty passages 
 or galleries of similar design.
 
 20 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 BTJBLINGTON ARCADE. When, in 1815, Burlington House was purchased of the Duke 
 of Devonshire hy his uncle, Lord George Cavendish, that nobleman converted a narrow 
 slip of ground on the west side of the house and garden into a passage, with a range of 
 shops on each side, called Burlington Arcade, making a covered communication for 
 foot passengers from Piccadilly to Burlington Gardens, Cork-street, and New Bond- 
 street. This Arcade was built by Samuel Ware, in 1819. It consists of a double row 
 of shops, with apartments over them, a roof of skylights, and a triple arch at each end ; 
 it is about 210 yards long, and the shops, seventy-two in number, produce to the noble 
 family of Cavendish 4000Z. a year ; though the property, by sub-letting and otherwise, 
 is stated to yield double that amount a year. 
 
 EXETEB CHANGE (the second building of the name, but on a different site from the 
 first) was an Arcade built in 1844, on the estate of the Marquis of Exeter, and ran ob- 
 liquely from Catherine-street to Wellington-street North, Strand. It was designed by 
 Sydney Smirke ; and consisted of a polygonal compartment at each extremity, the in- 
 termediate passage being coved and groined, and lighted from above ; it contained 
 ten neat shops with dwellings over. The cove, fascia, piers, &c., had polychromic ara- 
 besque decorations : at each entrance to the Arcade was an imitative bronze gate ; and 
 the fronts in Catherine-street and Wellington-street, were of fine red brick, with stone 
 dressings, in the Jacobean style. The " Change," however, proved unprofitable ; it 
 was taken down in 1863, and upon its site was erected a portion of the Strand Music 
 Hall, externally and internally, of elaborate design. 
 
 LOWTHEE ARCADE (named from Lord Lowther, Chief Commissioner of the Woods 
 and Forests when it was built) leads from the triangle of the West Strand to Adelaide- 
 street, north of St. Martin's Church. It was designed by Witherden Young, and far 
 surpasses the Burlington Arcade in architectural character : the ceiling vista of small 
 pendentive domes is very beautiful, and the caducei in the angles are well executed. 
 The length is 245 feet, breadth 20 feet, and height 35 feet. The sides consist of 
 twenty-five dwellings and shops, principally kept by dealers in foreign goods, who, by 
 mutual consent, hold in the avenue a sort of fair for German and French toys, cheap 
 glass and jewellery, &c. At the north end of the Arcade is the Adelaide Gallery, 
 where Mr. Jacob Perkins exhibited his Steam Gun. A living electrical eel was shown 
 here from August, 1838, to March 14, 1843, when it died; and in 1832 was formed 
 here a Society for the Exhibition of Models of Inventions, &c. The rooms were sub- 
 sequently let for concerts, dancing, and exhibitions. 
 
 THE AECADE OE COTENT GAEDEN, miscalled piazza, was designed about 1631 for 
 Francis, Earl of Bedford, but only the north and east sides were built, and half of the 
 latter was destroyed by fire about the middle of the last century. The northern was 
 called the Great Piazza, the eastern the Little Piazza : Inigo Jones, the architect, 
 probably took his idea from an Italian city, Bologna, for instance. " The proportions of 
 the arcades and piers, crossed with elliptical and semicircular arches into groins, are ex- 
 quisitely beautiful, and are masterpieces of architecture." (Elmes.) The elevation was 
 originally built with stone pilasters on red brick, which have for many years been 
 covered with compo and white paint ; at the north-east corner two arcades and piers 
 have been removed for the intrusion of the Covent Garden Floral Hall. Had Inigo 
 Jones's picturesque square been completed, its entirety would probably have been 
 preserved. 
 
 ARCHES. 
 
 T ONDON differs essentially from many other European capitals in the paucity 
 J-^ of its Arches, or ornamental gateways. It has only three triumphal Arches, 
 whereas Paris, not half the size of our metropolis, has four magnificent Arches, and 
 the principal entrances are graced with trophied gateways and storied columns. The 
 Parisian Arc de VEtoile is without exception the most gigantic work of its kind either 
 in ancient or modern times ; within its centre arch would stand eight such structures 
 as Temple Bar, that is, four in depth, and as many above them. The Paris Arch cost 
 417,666^.
 
 ARCHES. 21 
 
 THE GHEEN FABK AECH, at Hyde Park Corner, was built by Decimus Burton in 
 1828. It is Corinthian, and each face has six fluted pilasters, with two fluted columns 
 flanking the single archway, raised upon a lofty stylobate, and supporting a richly 
 decorated entablature, in which are sculptured alternately G. R. IV. and the imperial 
 crown, within wreaths of laurel. The soffite of the arch is sculptured in sunk panels. 
 The gates, by Bramah, are of massive iron scroll-work, bronzed, with the royal arms in 
 a circular centre. Within the pier of the arch are the porter's apartments, and stairs 
 ascending to the platform, where, upon a vast slab, laid upon a brick arch, the colossal 
 equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington was placed, September 30, 1846. The 
 height of the arch, its attic, and platform is about 90 feet; of the statue, 30 feet. (See 
 STATUES.) 
 
 Opposite the above Arch is the elegant entrance to Hyde Park, by three carriage 
 archways and sides, in a Screen of fluted Ionic columns, of 107 feet frontage, designed 
 and built by Decimus Burton, in 1828. The blocking of the central archway has a 
 beautiful frieze (Grecian naval and military triumphal processions), designed by the 
 son of Mr. Henning, known for his successful models of the Elgin marbles. The gates, 
 by Bramah, are a beautiful arrangement of the Grecian honeysuckle in bronzed iron ; 
 the hanging, by rings of gun metal, is very ingenious. 
 
 Altogether, these two Park entrances, with St. George's Hospital north, and the 
 Duke of Wellington's palatial mansion south, form one of the finest architectural 
 groups in the metropolis, and its most embellished entrance. Sir John Soane, how- 
 ever, proposed two triumphal arches, connected by a colonnade and arches, stretching 
 across the main road a design of superb grandeur. 
 
 The third Arch was one originally designed and constructed in St. James's Park for 
 the especial entrance of the Sovereign and the Royal Family to Buckingham Palace. 
 In 1851 it was removed to Cumberland Gate, Hyde Park Corner. This was the 
 largest work of mere ornament ever attempted in Great Britain. It was adapted by 
 Xash from the Arch of Constantine, at Rome ; but it is by no means so richly em- 
 bellished. The sculpture is omitted in the attic, and in place of the reversed trusses 
 above the columns were to have been figures of Dacian warriors, and panels of sculpture 
 intervening. The fascia was to have been more highly enriched ; the attic carried 
 considerably higher, and surmounted with an equestrian statue of George the Fourth, 
 flanked with groups of military trophies, vases at the angles, &c. The Arch has a centre 
 and two side openings ; the sculpture is confined to a pair of figures, and a key-stone 
 on each face of the central archway ; with panels above the side openings and wreaths 
 at the end. These sculptures are by Flaxman, Westmacott, and Rossi. The statue of 
 George the Fourth was executed by Chantrey for 9000 guineas ; it was not placed 
 upon the Arch at the Palace, but at the north-east angle of Trafalgar-square. Upon 
 the Arch was hoisted the Royal Standard to denote the presence of the Sovereign. The 
 central entrance-gates were designed and cast by Samuel Parker, of Argyll-street ; 
 they are the largest and most superb in Europe, and cost 3000 guineas. They are of a 
 beautiful alloy, the base refined copper, and are bronzed : design, scroll- work with six 
 circular openings, two filled with St. George and the Dragon, two with G. R., and 
 above, two lions passant-gardant ; height to the top of Arch, 21 feet ; width, 15 feet; 
 extreme thickness, 3 inches ; weight, 5 tons and 6 cwt. Although cast, their enriched 
 foliage and scroll-work have the elaborate finish of fine chasing. They terminate at the 
 springing of the Arch ; but Mr. Parker had designed and cast for the semicircular 
 heading a rich frieze and the royal arms in a circle, flanked by state crowns. This 
 portion, however, was irreparably broken in removal from the foundry. The face of 
 the Arch is Carrara marble, altogether unfitted for the sooty atmosphere of London. 
 When it was resolved to enlarge Buckingham Palace by the erection of the present 
 front towards the Park, the Arch could not be made to form part of the design, and it 
 was removed and rebuilt at Hyde Park Corner, at the cost of 4,34.0/. The original cost 
 of the Arch was 75,000^. 
 
 Of the two arches, ST. JOHN'S GATE and TEMPLE BAB, separate histories will be 
 given.
 
 22 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ARGYLL ROOMS. 
 
 THIS place was originally a large house purchased hy Col. Greville, of sporting 
 notoriety, and converted into a place of public entertainment, where balls, concerts, 
 masquerades, and amateur plays were much patronized by the Jiaui ton. In 1818, the 
 \ Rooms were rebuilt in handsome style, by Nash, at the north corner of Little Argyll- 
 street, Regent-street, and contained a splendid suite for the above purposes : they were 
 burnt down in February, 1830, when Mr. Braithwaite first publicly applied steam- 
 power to the working of a fire-engine ; it required eighteen minutes to raise the water 
 in the boiler to 212, when the engine threw up from thirty to forty tons of water per 
 hour to a height of ninety feet. The premises were rebuilt, but not upon the same 
 scale as heretofore. 
 
 At the Argyll Rooms, June 9, 1829, Signer Velluti, the contralto singer, gave a 
 concert. In the same year, M. Chabert, " the Fire-King," exhibited here his power of 
 resisting the effects of poisons, and withstanding extreme heat. He swallowed 40 
 grains of phosphorus, sipped oil at 333 with impunity, and rubbed a red-hot fire- 
 shovel over his tongue, hair, and face unharmed. Sept. 23, on a challenge of 501., 
 Chabert repeated these feats, and won the wager ; he next swallowed a piece of burn- 
 ing torch ; and then, dressed in coarse woollen, entered an oven heated to 380, sang a 
 song, and cooked two dishes of beef-steak ! Still, the performances were suspected, 
 and in fact proved, to be a chemical juggle. 
 
 ART-UNION OF LONDON, 
 
 A SOCIETY established 1836, and incorporated by 9th and 10th Viet., c. 48, "to 
 aid in extending the love of the Arts of Design within the United Kingdom, and 
 to give encouragement to artists beyond that afforded by the patronage of individuals." 
 The annual subscription is one guinea, which entitles the subscriber to one chance 
 for a prize in the scheme, ranging from 10Z. to 200Z., to be selected from one of 
 the London exhibitions of the year. There are also prize medals, bronze casts, 
 porcelain statuettes, works in cast-iron ; line engravings, outlines, and mezzotints ; 
 lithographs and chromo-lithographs ; etchings and photographs and wood engravings ; 
 and bas-reliefs in fictile ivory ; and every subscriber is entitled to a print or prints. 
 
 The Art-Union has, unquestionably, fostered a taste for art ; and the increased 
 means of art-education has benefited the country in increased exports of articles of 
 taste, such as plate, silk manufactures, pottery, and paper-hangings. 
 
 The demand in England at this time for pictures is very great, and the prices paid for the works of 
 pur best painters are larger than has ever been the case before. Money judiciously spent in this way 
 is well invested. The first purchaser of " The Strawberry Girl ' gave Keynolds fifty guineas for it ; 
 the last, the Marquis of Hertford, was delighted in obtaining it for 2100 guineas. Art Union Report, 
 1864. 
 
 Few who assisted at our first meeting, in the little gallery in Regent-street, now the Gallery of Illus- 
 tration, were sanguine enough to expect a course of such continuing success as that through which the 
 institution has run ; or ventured to prognosticate that it would by this time have raised (mainly from 
 the classes at that date spending little 011 art), and would have distributed in aid of art and artists, the 
 sum of 324,OOOZ.; producing during that period 35 engravings of high class, 15 volumes of illustrative 
 outlines, etchings, and wood-engravings ; 16 bronzes, 12 statues and statuettes, with figures and vases 
 in iron, and a series of medals commemorative of British artists to say nothing of the main operation 
 of the Association, the distribution throughout the United Kingdom and the Colonies, of some thousands 
 of pictures by native modern artists, and some hundreds of thousands of impressions from 
 the engravings referred to. Such, however, has been the case, notwithstanding the difficulty with which 
 the subscriptions for the first year were made to mount to 4891. For the present year the sum of 
 11,7431. has been subscribed. The subscriptions for the year amount to the sum of 13,6481., showing 
 an increase of 1941/. on last year. Report, 1866. 
 Jp 
 
 Mr. Noel Paton's Illustrations of " The Ancient Mariner," given in 1864, with the 
 
 text, was then allowed to be the greatest work offered to the subscribers. The 
 Society has about 600 honorary secretaries in the provinces, in the British Colonies, in 
 America, &c., including Canton ; it has expended about 150,COOZ. in the purchase and 
 production of works of art ; and in one morning the honorary secretaries paid to artists 
 of the metropolis no less than 10,OOOZ. The drawing of the prizes is usually held in
 
 ARTESIAN WELLS. 23 
 
 one of the metropolitan theatres, in April, and the subscribers are admitted by 
 tickets : office, 445, West Strand. 
 
 ARTESIAN WELLS* 
 
 HAVE been sunk or bored in various parts of the metropolis, the London Basin 
 being thought well adapted for them, there being on it a thick lining of sand, 
 and a deep bed of " London blue clay," on boring which, into the chalk formation, the 
 water rises to various heights : hence it was thought that an abundant and unfailing 
 supply might be obtained. The first boring was made at Tottenham, Middlesex. To 
 test the practicability of this method of procuring water in sufficient quantity for the 
 use of the metropolis, the New River Company sank a vast well at the foot of their 
 reservoir in the Hampstead-road : the excavation was steined with brick, 12ft. 6 in. in 
 diameter, and then reduced and continued with iron cylinders (like those of a tele- 
 scope), to 240 feet. The expense was 12,4127. The operations, which occupied three 
 years, were detailed by Mr. Mylne, engineer of the company, to the Institution of 
 Civil Engineers, 1839. 
 
 It is remarkable that chalk should have been reached at so small a depth as in the 
 Hampstead-road. Water was found at 1VO feet, but so mixed with sand as not to be 
 easily separable, which is the chief difficulty in forming wells in the London clay ; 
 hence the workmen passed through the quicksand with the cylinders at an expense of 
 40001., independent of the 80001. which the well cost, hoping to obtain water in the 
 chalk below ; but this was found too inconsiderable for the purpose. 
 
 Artesian Wells are mostly formed by boring and driving pipes, varying from 6 to 
 10 inches or more in diameter; but many of these only enter the sand immediately 
 below the clay, instead of obtaining the supply of water from the chalk. Thus, an 
 Artesian Well sunk in Covent Garden, for more than fourteen years failed to supply 
 the ordinary wants of the market ; but having been deepened and carried ninety feet 
 into the chalk, it yielded an abundant supply, and is constantly worked, without mate- 
 rially reducing the level of the water, or lowering it in neighbouring wells, as in cases 
 where the chalk is not reached. It has been long known that the well in the Thames- 
 street Brewery, late Calvert's, 240 feet, and Barclay's well, 367 feet, at the Southwark 
 Brewery, affect each other so much even though the Thames lies between them that 
 the two firms agreed not to pump at the same time. 
 
 The following are the depths of a few of the Wells bored in London : Berkeley-square, 320 feet; Metis 
 and Co.'s Brewery, 435 feet ; Norwood, Middlesex, 414 feet, unsuccessful at this depth ; West India 
 Export Dock, 360 feet; Zoological Gardens, Regent's-park, 227 feet, cost 1957Z.; Barclay and Perkhis' 
 Brewery, 367 feet ; Combe and Delafield's Brewery, 522 feet ; North Western Railway Station, 400 feet ; 
 Nicholson's Distillery, 160 feet ; Truman, Hanbury, and Co.'s Brewery, 390 feet, cost 44-1-11. ; Reid and 
 Co.'s Brewery, shaft sunk the whole depth, 259 feet, 3ost 77001.; Black wall Railway, depth not _given, 
 cost 8000Z.; Pentonville Prison, 370 feet, cost 16002. ; St. Mary Woolnoth, Lombard-street, 252 feet, cost 
 200'. ; Whitbread and Co.'s Brewery, 160 feet ; Combe and Co.'s Brewery, 190 feet ; Covent-garden 
 Market, 340 feet; Piccadilly (St. James's Church), 240 feet ; Elliott's Brewery, 390 feet; Royal Mint, 
 Tower-hill, 400 feet. At Kentish Town, in 1856, an Artesian Well was abandoned when the borings had 
 reached 1302 feet, no water having been met with, though a copious supply had been predicted from the 
 lower greensands naturally expected to occur immediately below the gault; but the gault was found to 
 be succeeded by 176 feet of a series of red clays, with intercalated sandstones and grits a fact which set 
 geologists pondering. The two Wells for the Government Water-works, Trafalgar-square, by C. E. 
 Amos, C.E., were sunk in 1844, 300 feet and 400 feet deep ; cost nearly 80002. ; these works will be 
 further described. At Kensington there has been sunk and bored, for the supply of the Horticultural 
 Gardens, a well 401 feet deep, and 5 feet clear in diameter, the bore-hole being 201 feet deep from the 
 bottom of the well ; water rises 73 feet in the shaft, the pumps lifting 144,000 gallons daily, of excellent 
 chalk spring-water. 
 
 The question of supply from these wells is beset with so many difficulties, the altera- 
 tions in the London strata being so great, that no one experienced in wells will venture 
 to infer from one place what will occur in another. 
 
 Dr. Buckland, the eminent geologist, one of the first to show the fallacy, states that 
 although there are from 250 to 300 so-called Artesian Wells in the metropolis, there is 
 not one real Artesian Well within three miles of St. Paul's : such being a well that is 
 
 * The term Artesian has been applied from the supposed fact of these wells having been originally 
 constructed in the county of Artois (the ancient Artesium), in the north of Prance. They were, how- 
 ever, rather found than originated in Artois, for they had long existed in Italy and a few other parts of 
 Europe, and appear to have been common generally in the East at a very early period.
 
 24 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 always overflowing, either from its natural source or from an artificial tube : and when 
 the overflowing ceases, it is no longer an Artesian Well. The wells which are now 
 made by boring through the London clay are merely common wells. It has been said 
 that a supply of water, if bored for, will rise of its own accord ; but the water obtained 
 for the fountains in Trafalgar-square does not rise within forty feet of the surface, and 
 is pumped up by means of a steam-engine the same water over and over again. Dr. 
 Bucklaiid maintains that the supply of water formerly obtained from the so-called 
 Artesian Wells in London has been greatly diminished by the sinking of new wells ; of 
 the more than 250 wells, one-half have broken down, and others are only kept in 
 action at an enormous expense. The average depth at which water can be obtained 
 from these defective wells is 60 feet below the Trinity House water-mark. In 1856, it 
 was stated that the level of the London wells, since 1822, had sunk fifty feet ; and falls 
 at the rate of 18 or 24 inches in a year. The rapid increase in the number of these 
 wells, of late years, has been attended with so constant a reduction of the quantity of 
 water they respectively furnish, that it is now generally considered that any additional 
 supply for public purposes cannot be expected from this source, as it seems already 
 overtaxed by private work. 
 
 Mr. Prestwich, jun., F.G.S., in his Geological Inquiry, considers " it would be diffi- 
 cult to account for the generally unfavourable opinion entertained regarding Artesian 
 Wells as a means of public supply, were it not that the annually decreasing yield of 
 water from the tertiary sands and the chalk beneath London has produced an im- 
 pression of uncertainty as to all such sources of supply; which, with the constantly 
 increasing expense caused by the depth from which the water has to be pumped, and 
 the proportion of saline ingredients being so much greater in them than in the river 
 waters, have been taken as sufficient grounds of objection. But it is to be observed, in 
 explanation of the diminished supply from the present source, that the tertiary sands 
 are of very limited dimensions ; that the chalk is not a freely permeable deposit ; and 
 that the peculiarities of the saline ingredients depend upon the chemical composition of 
 these formations. All these causes, however, are local, and can by no means be con- 
 sidered as grounds of objection against the system of Artesian Wells generally." Mr. 
 Prestwich suggests a fresh system of Artesian Wells, especially as none have as yet 
 been carried through the chalk ; though it is shown that the conditions in this country 
 are more farourable than in France. 
 
 ARTILLERY COMPANY. 
 
 HTHIS ancient body of Civic Volunteers, the oldest armed force in the kingdom, 
 -*- originated in the Guild of St. George, in the reign of Edward I. They were also 
 known as the Archers of Finsbury, and were incorporated by Henry VIII., whose 
 signature is on the great book of the Company. We next trace it as the old City 
 Trained Band, raised, or rather augmented in 1585, at the period of the menaced 
 Popish invasion. Within two years there were enrolled nearly 300 merchants and 
 others, " very sufficient and skilful to train and teach common soldiers the management 
 of their pieces, pikes, and halberds; to march, countermarch, and ring. Some of 
 them, in the dangerous year of 1588, had charge of men in the great camp at Tilbury, 
 and were generally called Captains of the Artillery Garden, the place where they 
 exercised" (Stow, by SowelT) in " the Old Artillery Ground," demised to them out of 
 the ancient manor of Finsbury, or Fensbury, originally a field called Tassel (or Teasel, 
 from teasels being gro\yn here for cloth- workers) Close ; then let for archery practice ; 
 and next enclosed with a wall for the Gunners of the Tower to exercise in. After 
 1588, the City Artillery neglected their discipline; but in 1610 they formed anew, and 
 in a few years numbered nearly 6000. In 1622, they removed to a larger ground with- 
 out Moorgate, the present Artillery ground, west of Finsbury-square. 
 
 In the Civil War, the Company marched with Essex to raise the siege of Gloucester, 
 which was the distinguishing crisis of the contest ; and in the second battle of Newbury 
 their steady valour repulsed the fiercest charges of Rupert's cavalry, and proved the 
 main safeguard of the Parliamentary Army. The reluctant testimony of Clarendon to 
 these " Londoners" is very remarkable :
 
 ARTILLERY COMPANY. 25 
 
 " The London Trained Bands and Auxiliary Regiments (of whose inexperience of danger, or any kind 
 of service, by the easy practice of their postures in the Artillery Garden, men held till then, too "cheap 
 in estimation) behaved themselves to wonder, and were in truth the preservation of that army that day, 
 for they stood as a bulwark and rampire to defend the rest ; and when their wings of horse were 
 scattered and dispersed, kept their ground so steadily, that though Prince Rupert himself led up the 
 choice horse to charge them, and endured their storm of small shot, he could make no impression upon 
 thfir stand of pikes, but was forced to wheel about ; of so sovereign benefit and use is that readiness, 
 order, and dexterity in the use of their arms, which hath been so much neglected." Hist. Rebellion, 
 edit. 1826, iv. 236. 
 
 Howell, in his Londonopolis, 1657, tells us that London had then " 12,000 Trained 
 Band Citizens perpetually in readiness, excellently armed ;" and in the unlucky wars 
 with the Long Parliament, the London firelocks did the King most mischief. 
 Cromwell knew the value of this force, and for some years its strength was 18,000 foot 
 and 600 horse. They were, however, disbanded at the Restoration, but continued their 
 evolutions, the King and the Duke of York becoming members, and dining in public 
 with the new Company. When Queen Anne went to St. Paul's, the City Train Bands 
 lined the streets from Temple Bar to the Cathedral. The last time they were in active 
 service was at the riots of 1780, when they aided in saving the Bank of England from 
 the pillage of the rioters. 
 
 The Artillery Company have always been the only military body in the kingdom 
 which bears arms under the direct authority of the reigning Sovereign, and which is 
 wholly free from the control of Parliament. From time immemorial the post of 
 Captain-General and Colonel, which is the ancient title of the officer in supreme com- 
 mand of the corps, has been held, sometimes by the reigning Sovereign, by a Prince 
 Consort, and by a Prince of Wales or heir-apparent of the throne. Its roll of Captains- 
 General and Colonels includes the names of Charles I., James II., the Prince of Orange, 
 Prince George of Denmark, George I. (who gave the Company 5001.), George II., 
 George IV., William IV., the Duke of Sussex, and Albert, Prince Consort, who was 
 succeeded by the Prince of Wales : on its muster-roll are the names of Prince Rupert, 
 the Duke of Buckingham, General Monk, and the Duke of Monmouth. 
 
 Upon royal visits to the City, the Artillery Company attend as a guard of honour to 
 the Sovereign. In cases of apprehended civil disturbance the Company muster at their 
 head-quarters, the Artillery Ground, Finsbury, granted to them in trust, in 1641, at the 
 rent of 6s. 8d. per annum. This ground, with the houses adjoining, realizes to the 
 Company a yearly income of 2QOOL, which is expended for the benefit of the members, 
 and in payment of managerial officers. Strype describes the ground as "the third 
 great field from Moorgate, next the Six Windmills." Here is the spacious Armoury 
 House, finished in 1735 ; the collection of arms, &c., includes some fine pieces of 
 ordnance, among which is a pair of handsome brass field-pieces, presented by Sir 
 William Curtis, Bart., President ; besides portions of the ancient uniforms and arms of 
 the corps, as caps and helmets, pikes and banners. A new set of colours was formally 
 presented to the regiment, in 1864, by the Princess of Wales. 
 
 The corps comprises six companies of Infantry, besides Artillery, Grenadiers, 
 Light Infantry, and Yagers. They exercise on occasional field-days in the Artillery 
 Ground, and meet for rifle practice in the vicinity of the metropolis, the prize 
 being a large gold medal. Besides the Armoury, here is a workshop for cleaning 
 guns, a long shooting gallery, &c. Each member, for a subscription, has the use of 
 arms and accoutrements from the Company's stores, but finds his uniform according 
 to regulations. 
 
 The musters and marchings of the City Trained Band have not escaped the whipping 
 of dramatists and humorists. Fletcher ridicules them in the Knight of the Burning 
 Pestle ; as does Steele in the Taller, more especially in No. 41, with the Company's 
 way of giving out orders for " an exercise of arms," when the greatest achievements 
 were happily performed near Grub-street, where a faithful historian, being eye-witness 
 of these wonders, should transmit them to posterity, &c. The Company were then 
 (1709) mercilessly quizzed, and we may judge of the reason from Hatton's observation, 
 in 1708 : " They do by prescription march over all the ground from the Artillery 
 Ground to Islington, and Sir George Whitmore's at Hoxton, breaking downgates, <$fc., 
 that obstructed them in such marches." Hatton tells of their former splendid public 
 feasts, when four of the nobility and as many citizens were stewards, and to which the
 
 26 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 principal nobility and foreign ministers were invited. The Company's armorial ensigns 
 are very characteristic : 
 
 The Shield and Cross of St. George, charged with a lion of England ; on a chief azure, a portcullis 
 furnished or ; between two ostrich feathers, argent. Crest, a dexter-arm armed, holding a leading stall', 
 or, fringed gules. Supporters, two military men equipped according to the laws of the Militia, the 
 dexter with a pike, the sinister with a musket proper. Motto Arma Pacis Fulcra. 
 
 The Barracks in Artillery-place, designed by Jennings, in the style of the early 
 castellated mansion, and erected of stone in 1857, are the head-quarters of the London 
 Militia. 
 
 BALLOON AS CUNTS. 
 
 rpHE following are the more memorable Balloon Ascents made from, the metropolis 
 J- since the introduction of aerostation into England. In most cases the aeronauts 
 were accompanied by friends, or persons who paid for the trip various sums. 
 
 Nov. 25, 1783, the first Balloon (filled with hydrogen) launched in England, from 
 the Artillery Ground, Finsbury, by Count Zambeccari. The Balloon was found 48 
 miles from London, near Petworth. 
 
 Sept. 15, 1784, Lunardi ascended from the Artillery Ground, Moorfields ; being the 
 first voyage made in England ; he was accompanied by a cat, a dog, and a pigeon. 
 
 March 23, 1785, Admiral Sir Edward Vernon, accompanied by Count Zambeccari. 
 
 June 29, 1785, ascent of Mrs. Sage, the first Englishwoman aeronaut. 
 
 July 5, 1802, M. Garnerin made his second ascent in England, from Lord's Cricket 
 Ground. The same year he ascended three times from Ranelagh Gardens; and 
 descended successfully from a Balloon by a Parachute, near the Small-pox Hospital, St. 
 Pancras. 
 
 1811, James Sadler, ascended from Hackney ; his two sons, John and Windham, were 
 also aeronauts ; the latter killed, Sept. 29, 1824, by falling from a Balloon. 
 
 July 19, 1821, Mr. Charles Green first ascended in a Balloon inflated with coal gas, 
 substituted for hydrogen, on the coronation day of George IV. Cost of inflation, from 
 251. to 5(M. : this was Mr. Green's first aerial voyage. Up to May, 1850, he had made 
 142 ascents from London only. Ten persons named Green have ascended in Balloons.* 
 
 Sept. 11, 1823, Mr. Graham ascended from White Conduit House. 
 
 May 25, 1824, Lieutenant Harris, R.N., ascended from, the Eagle Tavern, City 
 Road, with Miss Stocks ; the former killed by the too rapid descent of the Balloon. 
 
 July, 1833, Mr. Graham ascended from Hungerford Market; day of opening. One 
 of Mr. Graham's companions, on this occasion, shortly after made a second ascent, 
 which caused a derangement of intellect, from which he never entirely recovered. 
 
 Sept. 17, 1835, Mr. Green ascended from Vauxhall Gardens, and remained up during 
 the whole of the night. 
 
 August 22, 1836, the Duke of Brunswick ascended. 
 
 Sept. 9, 1836, Mr. Green's first ascent in his great Vauxhall Balloon. 
 
 Nov. 7, 1836, Mr. Green, Mr. Monck Mason, and Mr. Holland ascended in the great 
 Vauxhall Balloon, and descended, in eighteen hours, at Weilburg, in Nassau. Of this 
 ascent, Mr. Mason published a detailed account. 
 
 July 24, 1837, Mr. Green ascended from Vauxhall Gardens, in his great Balloon, 
 with Mr. Cocking in a parachute, in which the latter was killed in descending. 
 
 May 24, 1838, unsuccessful attempt to ascend with a large Montgolfier Balloon from 
 the Surrey Zoological Gardens. The Balloon was destroyed by the spectators ; it was 
 the height of the York Column, and half the circumference of the dome of St. Paul's, 
 and would contain, when fully inflated, 170,000 cubic feet of air. 
 
 Sept. 10, 1838, Mr. Green and Mr. Rush ascended from Vauxhall Gardens in the 
 Nassau Balloon, and descended at Lewes, Sussex ; having reached the then greatest 
 altitude ever attained 27,146 feet, or 5 miles 746 feet. 
 
 July 17, 1840, the Vauxhall, or great Nassau Balloon, sold to Mr. Green for 5001. ; 
 in 1836 it cost 2100Z. 
 
 August 19, 1844, perilous night ascent with Mr. Gypson's Balloon from Vauxhall 
 
 * Mr. Green has made, altogether, a larger number of ascents than any other aeronaut ; they exceed 
 600. Of this veteran a fine portrait (private plate) has been engraved.
 
 SANK OF ENGLAND. 
 
 Gardens, with fireworks. Mr. Albert Smith and Mr. Coxwell accompanied the aero- 
 naut. At 7000 feet high the Balloon burst, but, by Mr. Coxwell cutting some lines, 
 the Balloon assumed a parachute form, and descended safely. 
 
 Aug. 7, 1850, Mrs. Graham's Balloon destroyed by fire, after her descent, near 
 Edmonton. 
 
 Sept. 7, 1854, ascent of Mr. Coxwell's War Balloon, from the Surrey Zoological 
 Gardens, with telegraphic signals. 
 
 June 15, 1857, night voyage from Woolwich to Tavistock, 250 miles, made by Mr. 
 Coxwell, in five hours. 
 
 July 17, 1862, Mr. Glaisher and Mr. Coxwell first ascended in a large Balloon made 
 by the latter for the experiments of the British Association : ascent from Wolver- 
 hampton ; elevation attained, 26,177 feet above the sea-level. 
 
 Sept. 5, 1862, the highest and most memorable ascent on record. Mr. Glaisher and 
 Mr. Coxwell attained an elevation of 37,000 feet, or 7 miles. Mr. Glaisher became 
 insensible; and Mr. Coxwell, his hands being frozen, had to pull the valve-cord with 
 his mouth, and thus escaped death. 
 
 Jan. 12, 1864, Mr. Glaisher's seventeenth scientific ascent in Mr. Coxwell's large 
 Balloon ; the only ascent made in England during the month of January. 
 
 Aug. 3, 1864, M. Godard ascended from Cremorne Gardens, in his huge Montgolfier 
 Balloon, and made a perilous descent at Walthamstow. 
 
 Mr. Glaisher, by his scientific ascents, has proved that the Balloon 'does afford a 
 means of solving with advantage many delicate questions in physics ; and the Com- 
 mittee of the British Association report that Science and the Association owe a debt of 
 gratitude to Mr. Glaisher for the ability, perseverance, and courage with which he has 
 voluntarily undertaken the hazardous labour of recording meteorological phenomena 
 in the several ascents. The following survey of London, Oct. 9, 1863, sixteenth ascent, 
 as the Balloon passed over London Bridge, at the height of 7000 feet, in an unusually 
 clear atmosphere, is picturesquely descriptive. 
 
 " The scene around," says Mr. Glaisher, " was probably one that cannot be equalled in the world at 
 one glance the homes of 3,000,000 of people were seen, and so distinctly that every large building at 
 every part was easily distinguished ; while those almost under us viz., the Bank and Xewgate, the 
 Docks and surrounding buildings, &c., in such detail that their inner courts were visible, and their 
 ground-plans could have been drawn. Cannon-street was easily traced; but it was difficult to believe 
 at first sight that small building to be St. Paul's. Looking onward, Oxford-street was visible; the 
 Parks, the Houses of Parliament, and Millbank Prison, with its radiating lines from the centre, at onc6 
 attracted notice. In fact, the whole of London was visible, and some parts of it very clearly. Then all 
 around there were lines of detached villas, imbedded as it were in shrubs ; and beyond, the country, like 
 a garden, with its fields well marked, but becoming smaller and smaller as the eye wandered further 
 away. 
 
 "Again looking down, there was the Thames, without the slightest mist, winding throughout its 
 whole length, with innumerable ships, apparently very long and narrow, and steamboats like moving 
 toys. Gravesend was visible, as were the mouth of the Thames and the coast leading on to Norfolk. 
 The southern boundary of the mouth of the Thames was not quite so clear, but the sea beyond was 
 discernible for many miles; and when higher up I looked for the coast of France, but I could not see it. 
 On withdrawing the eye it was arrested by the garden-like appearance of the county of Kent, till again 
 London claimed attention. Smoke, thin and blue, was curling above it and .slowly moving away in 
 beautiful curves, from all but south of the Thames ; here the smoke was less blue and became apparently 
 more dense, till the cause was evident, it being mixed with mist rising from the ground, the southern 
 limits of which were bounded by aii even line, doubtless indicating the meeting of the subsoils of gravel 
 and clay. 
 
 " The whole scene was surmounted by a canopy of blue, the sky being quite clear and free from cloud 
 everywhere except near the horizon, where a circular band of cumuli and strata clouds, extending all 
 round, formed a fitting boundary for such a scene. The sun was seen setting, but was not itself visible, 
 except a small part seen through a break in a dark stratus cloud like an eye overseeing all. Sunset, as 
 seen from the earth, is described as fine, the air being clear and shadows sharply denned. As we rose 
 the golden hues decreased in intensity and richness both right and left of the place of the sun ; but their 
 effects extended to fully one-fourth part of the circle, where rose-coloured clouds limited the scene. 
 The remainder of the circle was completed partly by pure white cumulus of very rounded and symme- 
 trical forms. I have seen London from above by night, and I have seen it by day when four miles high, 
 but nothing could exceed the view on this occasion at the height of one mile, varying to one mile and 
 three-quarters, with a clear atmosphere. The roar of London even at the greatest height, was one 
 unceasing rich and deep sound, and added impressive interest to the general circumstances in which we 
 were placed." 
 
 I 
 
 SANK OF ENGLAND, IKE, 
 
 S an insulated assemblage of buildings and courts, occupying three acres, minus nine or 
 ten yards, north of the Royal Exchange, Cornhill j bounded by Prince's-street, west ;
 
 28 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Lotbbury, north ; Bartholomew-lane, east j and Threadneedle-street, south. Its exterior 
 measurements are 365 feet south, 410 feet north, 245 feet east, and 440 feet west. 
 Within this area are nine open courts; a spacious rotunda, numerous public offices, 
 court and committee-rooms, an armoury, engraving and printing-offices, a library, and 
 apartments for officers, servants, &c. 
 
 The Bank, " the greatest monetary establishment in the world," was projected in 
 1691, by Mr. William Paterson, a Scotsman ; was established by a company of Whig 
 merchants, and incorporated by William III., July 27, 1694, Paterson being placed on 
 the list of Directors for this year only j the then capital, 1,200,000^., being lent to 
 Government. The first chest used was somewhat larger than a seaman's. 
 
 The first Governor was Sir John Houblon, whose house and garden were on part of 
 the site of the present Bank ; and the first Deputy-Governor was Michael Godfrey, 
 who, July 17, 1695, was shot at the siege of Namur, while attending King William 
 with a communication relating to the Bank affairs. 
 
 The Bank commenced business at Mercers' Hall, and next removed to Grocers' Hall, 
 then in the Poultry ; at this time the secretaries and clerks numbered but 54, and 
 their united salaries amounted to 4350/. In 1734 they removed to the premises 
 built for the Bank, the earliest portion of which part is still remaining the back of 
 the Threadneedle-street front, towards the court was designed by an architect named 
 Sampson. To this building Sir Robert Taylor* added two wings of columns, with 
 projections surmounted by pediments, and other parts. On Jan. 1, 1785, was set 
 up the marble statue of William III., amid the firing of three volleys, by the 
 servants of the establishment, Cheere, sculptor, in the Pay Hall, 79 feet by 40 feet, 
 which, in the words of Baron Dupin, would " startle the administration of a French 
 bureau, with all its inaccessibilities." 
 
 In 1757, the Bank premises were small, and surrounded by St. Christopher-le-Stoclts 
 Church (since pulled down), three taverns, and several private houses. Between 1766 
 and 1786 east and west wings were added by Taylor : some of his work is to be seen in 
 the architecture of the garden court. Upon Sir Robert Taylor's death, in 1788, Mr. 
 John Soane was appointed Architect to the Bank ; and, without any interruption to 
 the business, he completed the present Bank of brick and Portland stone, of incom- 
 bustible materials, insulated, one-storied, and without external windows. The general 
 architecture is Corinthian, from the Temple of the Sibyi at Tivoli, of which the south- 
 west angle exhibits a fac-simile portion. The Lothbury court is fine ; and the chief 
 Cashier's office is from the Temple of the Sun and Moon at Rome. The embellish- 
 ments throughout are very beautiful ; and the whole well planned for business high 
 architectural merit. The Rotunda has a dome 57 feet diameter ; and the Bank Parlour, 
 where the Governor and Company meet, is a noble room by Taylor. Here the Divi- 
 dends are declared ; and here the Directors are baited half-yearly by every Proprietor 
 who has had 500L Bank-stock in his possession for six months. In the Parlour lobby 
 is a portrait of Daniel Race, who was in the Bank service for more than half a century, 
 and thus amassed upwards of 200,000/. In the ante-chamber to the Governor's room 
 are fine busts of Pitt and Fox, by Nollekens. The ante-room to the Discount Office is 
 adapted from Adrian's Villa at Tivoli. The private Drawing Office, designed in 1836, 
 by Cockerell (Soane's successor), is original awd scenic ; and the Drawing Office, com- 
 pleted by the same architect in 1849, is 138 feet 6 inches long, and lit by four large 
 circular lanterns. In 1850, the Cornhill front was heightened by an attic ; and a large 
 room fitted up as a Library for the clerks. 
 
 The entrance to the Bullion Yard is copied from Constantino's Arch at Rome, and 
 has allegories of the Thames and Ganges, by T. Banks, R.A. The Bullion Office, on 
 the northern side of the Bank, consists of a public chamber and two vaults one for 
 the public deposit of bullion, free of charge, unless weighed; the other for the private 
 stock of the Bank. The duties are discharged by a Principal, Deputy-Principal, Clerk, 
 Assistant-Clerk, and porters. The public are on no account allowed to enter the 
 Bullion Vaults. Here the gold is kept in bars (each weighing 16 Ibs. and worth about 
 
 * The late Professor Cockerell, in his earlier lectures, used to exhibit, as a specimen of clever arrange- 
 ment, a plan of the triangular block of buildings, by Sir Kobert Taylor, that formerly stood between the 
 Bank and the Mansion House, where the Wellington Statue is now.
 
 SANK OF ENGLAND. 29 
 
 800?.), and the silver in pigs and bars, and dollars in bags. The value of the Bank 
 bullion in May, 1850, was sixteen millions. This constitutes, with their securities, the 
 assets which the Bank possess against their liabilities, on account of circulation and 
 deposits : and the difference between the several amounts is called " the Rest," or 
 balance in favour of the Bank. For weighing, admirably-constructed machines are 
 used : the larger one, invented by Mr. Bate, for weighing silver in bars from 50 Ibs. to 
 80 Ibs. troy ; second, a balance, by Sir John Barton, for gold ; and a third, by Mr. 
 Bate, for dollars, to amounts not exceeding 72 Ibs. 2 oz. troy. Gold is almost ex- 
 clusively obtained by the Bank in the bar form ; although no form of deposit would be 
 refused. A bar of gold is a small slab, weighing 16 Ibs., and worth about 8001. 
 
 In the Weighing Office, established in 1842, to detect light gold, is the ingenious 
 machine invented by Mr. William Cotton, then Deputy- Governor of the Bank. About 
 80 or 100 light and heavy sovereigns are placed indiscriminately in a round tube ; as 
 they descend on the machinery beneath, those which are light receive a slight touch, 
 which moves them into their proper receptacle ; and those which are of legitimate 
 weight pass into their appointed place. The light coins are then defaced by a 
 machine, 200 in a minute ; and by the weighing-machinery 35,000 may be weighed in 
 one day. There are six of these machines, which from 1844 to 1849 weighed upwards 
 of 48,000,000 pieces without any inaccuracy. The average amount of gold tendered 
 in one year is nine millions, of which more than a quarter is light. The silver is 
 put up into bags, each of one hundred pounds value, and the gold into bags of a 
 thousand ; and then these bagfuls of bullion are sent through a strongly-guarded 
 door, or rather window, into the Treasury, a dark gloomy apartment, fitted up with 
 iron presses, and made secure with huge locks and bolts. 
 
 The Bank-note machinery, invented by the Oldhams, father and son, exerts, by 
 the steam-engine, the power formerly employed by the mechanic in pulling a note. 
 The Bank-notes are numbered on the dexter and sinister halves, each bearing the same 
 figures, by Bramah's machines : as soon as a note is printed, and the handle reversed 
 to take it out and put another in its place, a steel spring attached to the handle alters 
 the number to that which should follow. 
 
 The Clock in the roof is a marvel of mechanism, as it is connected with all the clocks 
 in the Stock offices : the hands of the several dials indicate precisely the same hour 
 and second, by means of connecting brass-rods (700 feet long, and weighing 6 cwt.), 
 and 200 wheels ; the principal weight being 350 Ibs. 
 
 The Bank has passed through many perils : it has been attacked by rioters, its notes 
 have been at a heavy discount, it has been threatened with impeachment, and its credit 
 has been assailed by treachery. In 1696 (the great re-coinage) the Directors were 
 compelled to suspend the payment of their notes. They then increased their capital to 
 2,201,27H. The Charter has been renewed from 1697 to the present time. 
 
 The earliest panic, or run, was in 1707, upon the threatened invasion of the Pre- 
 tender. In the run of 1745, the Corporation was saved by their agents demanding 
 payment for notes in sixpences, and who, paying in the same, thus prevented the bond 
 fide holders of notes presenting them. Another memorable run was on February 26, 
 1797, upon an alarm of invasion by the French, when the Privy Council Order and the 
 Restriction Act prohibited the Bank from paying cash, except for sums under 20s. 
 During the panic of 1825, from the evidence of Mr. Harman before Parliament, it 
 appears that the quantity of gold in the treasury, in December, was under 1,300,000^. 
 It has since transpired that there was not 100,000^., probably not 50,OOOZ. ! The 
 Bank then issued one-pound notes, to protect its remaining treasure ; which worked 
 wonders, though by sheer good luck : " because one box containing a quantity of one- 
 pound notes had been overlooked, and they were forthcoming at the lucky moment." 
 
 Panics have been produced sometimes by extraordinary means. In May, 1832, a " run upon the Bank 
 of England " was produced by the walls of London being placarded with the emphatic words, " To stop 
 the Duke, go for Gold ;" advice which was followed, as soon as given, to a prodigious extent. The 
 Duke of Wellington was then very unpopular ; and on Monday, the 14th of May, it being currently 
 believed that the Duke had formed a Cabinet, the panic became universal, and the run upon the Bank 
 of England for coin was so incessant, that in a few hours upwards of half a million was carried off. 
 Mr. Doubleday, in his Life of Sir Robert Peel, states it to be well known that the above placards were 
 " the device of four gentlemen, two of whom were elected members of the reformed Parliament. Each 
 put down 201. -. and the sura thus clubbed was expended in printing thousands of these terrible missives,
 
 30 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 which were eagerly circulated, and were speedily seen upon every wall in London. The effect is hardly 
 to be described. It was electric." 
 
 The Bank is the banker of the Government; for here are received the taxes, 
 the interest of the National Debt paid, the Exchequer business transacted, &c. The 
 amount paid by the Government to the Bank for the management of the National 
 Debt is at the rate of 340?. per million for the first 600,000,000?., and 3001. per 
 million for the remainder. This amounts to about 250,000?. a year. "The Old Lady 
 of Threadneedle-street," applied to the Bank, is a political sobriquet now almost 
 forgotten. 
 
 The forgeries upon the Bank supply a melancholy chapter in its history. The first 
 forger of a note was a Stafford linendraper, who, in 1758, was convicted and executed. 
 Through the forgeries of one person, Robert Aslett, the Bank lost 320,000?. ; and 
 by another, Fauntleroy, 360,000?. In 1862, there were forgeries to a large amount, 
 by paper expressly manufactured for the Bank, which had been stolen, for which four 
 persons suffered penal imprisonment. 
 
 The Committee of Treasury sit weekly, and is composed of all the Directors who 
 have passed the chair. The Accountant, the Secretary, and the Cashier reside within 
 the Bank ; and a certain number of Clerks sit up nightly to go the round of the build- 
 ing, in addition to the military guard. 
 
 The Bank possesses a very fine collection of ancient coins. Visitors are shown in the 
 old Note Office, paid notes for ten years ; and some bank-notes for large amounts which 
 have passed between the Bank and the Government, including a single note for one 
 million sterling, kept in a frame. 
 
 Madox, who wrote the History of the Exchequer, was first Cashier; but more popu 
 larly known was Abraham Newland, Chief-Cashier from 1778 to 1807, who had 
 slept twenty-five years within the Bank, without absenting himself a single night. 
 He signed every note : his name was long remembered in a popular song, " as one 
 that is wrote upon every bank-note," to forge which, in street slang, was to "sham 
 Abraham." 
 
 In 1852 was placed in the Garden Court a fountain, constructed by the then Go- 
 vernor, Mr. Thomas Hankey. The water is thrown by a single jet, 30 feet high, 
 amongst the branches of two of the finest lime-trees in London, and is part of the Bank 
 system of waterworks. An Artesian well sunk 330 feet 100 in the chalk yields 
 soft water, free from lime, and without a trace of organic matter. The water is 
 pumped into the tanks at the top of the building, which contain 50,000 gallons, and 
 the fountain is connected with these tanks ; the pumping being by the steam-engine 
 employed also in printing the bank-notes. The fountain is placed on the site of St. 
 Christopher's churchyard. The last person buried there was Jenkins, a Bank clerk, 
 7J feet in height, and who was allowed to be buried within the walls of the Bank, to 
 prevent disinterment, on account of his unusual height. 
 
 There are in the Bank upwards of eight hundred clerks, at salaries ranging from 
 65?. per annum to 800?. ; the patronage is in the hands of the directors, of whom there 
 arc twenty-four, each having a nomination to admit one clerk, provided he be found 
 qualified on examination. The vacancies are not, as in most public offices, filled up as 
 they occur by deaths, resignations, &c., but by electing from twenty-five to thirty 
 junior clerks every four or five months ; it is also usual to admit one-fifth of this num- 
 ber from the sons of clerks already in the service. The scale of pensions for length of 
 service is the same as in the Government offices. 
 
 Among the Curiosities are the bank-note autograph-books two splendidly -bound 
 folio volumes, each leaf embellished with an illuminated border, exactly surrounding 
 the space required to attach a bank-note. When any distinguished visitor arrives he 
 is requested to place his autograph to an unsigned note, which is immediately pasted 
 over one of the open spaces. They are thus illustrated by the signatures of various 
 royal and noble personages. That of Napoleon III., Henry V., the Kings of Sweden, 
 Portugal, and Prussia, a whole brigade of German Princes, Ambassadors from Siam, 
 Persia, Turkey the latter in Oriental characters and some of our higher nobility. 
 There are some scientific names, but few literary celebrities ; among them those of Lady 
 Sale; and Mehemet Ali, the Pasha of Egypt.
 
 SANK OF ENGLAND. 31 
 
 " The circulation of the Bank of England has been stationary or slightly retrogressive for some years 
 past, notwithstanding the increase of trade, wealth, and population. The authorities even of the Cur- 
 rency principle no longer insist upon the variations of the bank-note circulation as the symptoms to be 
 chiefly regarded. They, with the rest of the world, have discovered that the state of the banking reserve 
 at the Hank of England, the condition of credit, and the effects of a high or low rate of interest, are the 
 circumstances which really control the financial phenomena of the country from week to week and 
 month to month." Economist. 
 
 Upwards of a million is paid into the Bank daily, in the shape of notes. When 
 cashed a corner is torn off, and this now valueless piece of paper, after being duly 
 entered in the books, is deposited in chambers beneath the sorting-room, where it is 
 kept ten- years, in case it may be required as testimony at some future trial, or to settle 
 any other legal difficulties. In one of the court-yards of the building is a large circular 
 cage, within which is an octagonal furnace constructed of bricks, laid only half over 
 each other, so as to afford ample ventilation. In this furnace, once a month, all the 
 notes that were received during the month previous ten years back are consumed. The 
 furnace is five feet high, by at least ten in diameter ; yet we arc assured that it is 
 completely filled by the number returned during one month. 
 
 Notes of the Bank, at its establishment, 20 per cent, discount ; in 1745 under par. Bank Bills paid 
 in silver, in 17-15. Bank Post Bills first issued, 1754. Small Notes issued, 1759. Cash payments dis- 
 continued, Feb. 25, 1797, and Notes of II. and 21. put into circulation. Cash payments partially resumed, 
 Sept. 22, 1817. Eestriction altogether ceased, 1821. May 14, 1832, upwards of 300,OOOZ. weighed and 
 paid to bankers and others. Quakers and Hebrews not eligible as Directors. Qualification for Director, 
 2000Z. Bank Stock; Deputy-Governor, 3000^. ; Governor. 4000?. Highest price of Bank Stock, 299; 
 lowest 91. The Bank has paid Dividends at the rate of 21 per cent., and as low as 4-J per cent, per 
 annum. Silver Tokens issued, Jan., 179S. Issue on paper securities not permitted to exceed 14,000,OOtM. 
 Capital punishment for forgery, excepting only forgeries of wills and powers of attorney, abandoued in 
 1&32. (See Francis's popular History of the Sank of England, 3rd edit. 1848.) 
 
 1852, Oct. 1, West-cud Branch opened at Uxbridge House, Burlington Gardens. 
 
 The total of deposits held ten years ago by the Bank of England was about \ 
 14,300,OOOZ. ; it is now (18G6) 20,140,OOOZ. 
 
 In the Riots of 1780, the Bank was defended by military, the City volunteers, and the 
 officers of the establishment, when the old inkstands were cast into bullets. It was at- 
 tacked by the mob, when Wilkes rushed out and seized some of the ringleaders. Since 
 this date a military force has been stationed nightly within the Bank; a dinner is pro- / 
 vided for the officer on guard and two friends. (See a clever sketch in MMbceus in 
 London.) In the political tumult of November, 1830, provisions were made at> the 
 Bank for a state of siege. At the Chartist Demonstration of April 10, 1848, the roof </ -' 
 of the Bank was fortified by Sappers and Miners, and a strong garrison within. The 
 Bank has now its own company of Rifles,, 150 strong, with two subdivisions each, 
 having a lieutenant and ensign, and fully armed and equipped. I 
 
 .i 
 
 rjlHAT part of the Liberty of Paris Garden called by old writers the "Bank" 
 -L simply, and afterwards Bankside, bordering on the Thames, was the site of several 
 early theatres, namely, the Globe, the Hope, the Rose, and the Swan; and superseded 
 the circus for " Bull-bayting" and " Bear-baiting," shown in Aggas's Map, about 1560. 
 (See THEATRES.) The stews here were as old as the reign of Henry II., and in the 
 time of Richard II. belonged to Sir William Walworth who slew Wat Tyler, who 
 had several stew-houses on the Bankside. They had signs painted on the walls ; as a 
 Boar's Head, the Cross Keys, the Gun, the Castle, the Cranes, the Cardinal's Hat, the 
 Bell, the Swan, &c. These stews, which were regulated by Parliament, were put down 
 by sound of trumpet in 1546; about 1506 this part was known as Stews-bank. 
 Bears were baited here from a very early period, but the bear-garden was removed to 
 Clerkenwell about 1686; the site at Bankside is now occupied by the Eagle iron 
 foundry and Bear-garden wharf. In 1720, the Bank was chiefly inhabited by dyers, 
 " for the conveniency of the water." In the reigns of Queen Elizabeth and James I., 
 Edward Alleyn, the founder of Dulwich College, kept the garden on the Bankside, in 
 conjunction with his father-in-law, Philip Henslowe, who was originally a dyer here. 
 Here were the Bishop of Winchester's park and garden and palace : of the latter a 
 fragment remains ; and here is " Cardinal's Cap-alley," and " Pike-garden." .
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 yY\ BARBICAN. 
 
 THIS old street, winch is a portion of the line of thoroughfare, eastward from West 
 Sraithfield to Finsbury-square, is named from its proximity to a barbican, or 
 watch-tower, attached to the City wall, the remains of which were visible within the 
 last eighty years. It was the advanced post of Cripplegate; and, like the others that 
 surrounded the City, was intrusted to some person of consequence in the State. This 
 tower was granted by Edward III. to the Earl of Suffolk, and he made it his town re- 
 sidence. After the removal of the City gates all vestiges of the Barbican dis- 
 appeared, except its name ; this became applied to the street, which R. B., in Strype, 
 describes as " a good broad street, well inhabited by tradesmen, especially by salesmen 
 for apparel both new and old ; and, fronting Redcross-street, is the watcbhouse, where 
 formerly stood a watch-tower called Burgh, and Ken, a place to view or ken from," 
 which is the derivation given by Sir Henry Spelman, the antiquary, who resided in 
 this street at the time of his death in 1640. 
 
 Camden, in his Britannia (published 1586), says : " The suburb also which runs out 
 on the north-west side of London is large, and had formerly a watch-tower or military 
 fence, from whence it came to be called by an Arabick name Barbacan." 
 
 The tower is described as built on high ground, and of some good height : from 
 thence " a man," says Stow, " might behold and view the whole city towards the south, 
 and also into Kent, Sussex, and Surrey, and likewise every other way, east, north, or 
 west." Mr. Godwin, F.S.A., in 1850 read to the British Archaeological Association 
 an ingenious paper illustrative of the term Barbican. 
 
 Milton lived here, 1646-7, in a house, No. 17, on the north side of the street : it 
 was taken down in 1 864. In Barbican was the mansion of the poet's early patrons, the 
 Bridgewater family ; and here lived Sir Thomas Wriothesley, Garter King-at-arms ; 
 whence Bridgewater-square, Brackley-street, and Garter-court. Beech-street, the east 
 continuation of Barbican, was, peradventure, named fi cm Nicholas de la Beech, Lieu- 
 tenant of the Tower of London, temp. Edward III. Here, in Drury House, lived 
 Prince Rupert. Its remains in 1766 were engraved by J. T. Smith. Barbican was, 
 in 1865-6, in part taken down, to make room for the Metropolitan (Extension to 
 Finsbury) Railway. 
 
 BARTHOLOMEW FAIR. 
 
 nPHIS ancient Fair presents, through its seven centuries' existence, many phases of 
 *- our social history with such graphic force, that " he may run that readeth it." 
 The Fair originated in two Fairs, or Markets, one begun by a grant of land from 
 Henry I. to his jester, Rayer, or Rahere, who founded a Priory to St. Bartholomew, in 
 West Smithfield, previous to which, however, a market called "the King's Market," 
 had been held near Smithfield. Out of the two elements, the concourse of pilgrims to 
 the Miraculous Shrine of St. Bartholomew, and the concourse of traders to the King's 
 Market, Bartholomew Fair grew up. Rayer's miracles were most ingenious, for he 
 cured a woman who could not keep her tongue in her mouth : if the wind went down, 
 as sailors far at sea were praying to the denuded saint, they called it a miracle, and 
 presented, in procession, a silver ship at the Smithfield shrine. The forged miracles 
 gave way to the imitative jugglers and mystery players ; and these three ele- 
 ments the religious, the dramatic, and the commercial flowed on till the Refor- 
 mation. 
 
 The Priory Fair, which was proclaimed on the Eve of St. Bartholomew, and con- 
 tinued during the next day, and the next morrow, was granted for the clothiers of 
 England and the drapers of London, who had their booths and standings within the 
 Priory churchyard (the site now Cloth Fair), the gates of which were locked every 
 night, and watched, for the safety of the goods and wares. Within its limits was held 
 a court of justice, named Pie Poudre, from pieds poudreux dusty feet by which, 
 persons infringing upon the laws of the Fair, its disputes, debts, and legal obligations, 
 &c., were tried the same day, and the punishment of the stocks, or whipping-post,
 
 BARTHOLOMEW FAIR. 33 
 
 summarily inflicted ; and this court was held, to the last, at the Hand and Shears, Cloth 
 Fair, by the Steward of the Lord of the Manor. 
 
 " Thus we have in the most ancient times of the Fair, a church full of worshippers, among whom were 
 the sick and maimed, praying for health about its altar ; a graveyard full of traders, and a place of jest- 
 ing and edification, where women and men caroused in the midst of the throng ; where the minstrel anb 
 the story-teller and the tumbler gathered knots about them ; where the sheriff caused new laws to de 
 published by loud proclamation in the gathering places of the people ; where the young men bowled at 
 nine- pins, while the clerks and friars peeped at the young maids; where mounted knights and ladies 
 curvetted and ambled, pedlars loudly magnified their wares, the scholars met for public wrangle, oxen 
 lowed, horses neighed, and sheep bleated among their buyers ; where great shouts of laughter answered 
 to the ' Ho ! ho !' of the devil on the stage, above which flags were flying, and below which a band of 
 pipers and guitar bearers added music to the din. That stage also, if ever there was presented on it 
 the story of the Creation, was the first Wild Beast Show in the Fair; for one of the dramatic effects 
 connected with this play, as we read in an ancient stage direction, was to represent the creation of 
 beasts by unloosing and sending among the excited crowd as great a variety of strange animals as could 
 be brought together, and to create the birds by sending up a flight of pigeons. Under foot was mud 
 and filth, but the wall that pent the city in shone sunlit among the trees, a fresh breeze came over the 
 surrounding fields and brooks, whispering among the elms that overhung the moor glittering with 
 pools, or from the Fair's neighbour, the gallows. Shaven heads looked down on the scene from the 
 adjacent windows of the buildings bordering the Priory inclosure, and the poor people whom the 
 friars cherished in their hospital, mads holiday among the rest. The curfew bell of St. Martin's-le- 
 Grand, the religious house to which William the Conqueror had given with its charter the adjacent 
 moorland, and within whose walls there was a sanctuary for loose people, stilled the hum of the crowd 
 at nightfall, and the Fair lay dark under the starlight." Memoirs of Bartholomew Fair. By Henry 
 Morley. 1858. 
 
 After the Reformation, Bartholomew Fair flourished with unabated vigour, the clergy 
 having no longer any interest in veiling its debaucheries. The Priory, together with 
 the rights formerly exercised by the monks, had been granted to the founder of the 
 Rich family, who was Solicitor-General to Henry VIII., and afterwards Lord Chancellor ; 
 they were enjoyed by his descendants till the year 1830, when they were purchased 
 from Lord Kensington by the Corporation of London. The Fair greatly declined, as 
 a cloth fair, from the reign of Queen Elizabeth ; and the mysteries and moralities being 
 succeeded by productions more nearly resembling the regular drama, the Corporation 
 granted licences to mountebanks, conjurors, &c., and allowed the Fair to be extended to 
 fourteen days, the Sword-bearer and other City officers being paid out of the emolu- 
 ments. Hentzner, in 1578, describes a tent pitched for the proclamation of the Fair, 
 and wrestling after the ceremony, with the crowd hunting wild rabbits, for the sport of 
 the Mayor and Aldermen. Here was also formerly a burlesque proclamation on the 
 night before, by the drapers of Cloth Fair snapping their shears and loudly shouting 
 all through Smithfield. 
 
 Ben Jonson, in his play of Bartholomew Fair, tell us of its motions, or puppet- 
 shows, of Jerusalem, Nineveh, and Norwich ; and the " Gunpowder Plot, presented to 
 an eighteen or twenty pence audience nine times in an afternoon." The showman 
 paid three shillings for his ground ; and a penny was charged for every burden of goods 
 and little bundle brought in or carried out. A rare tract, of the year 1641, describes 
 the " variety of Fancies, the Faire of Wares, and the several enonnityes and mis- 
 demeanours" of the Fair of that period. At these, the sober-minded Evelyn was 
 shocked. Pepys (Aug. 30, 1667) found at the Fair " my Lady Castlemaine at a 
 puppet-show," her coach waiting, " and the street full of people expecting her." The 
 sights and shows included wild beasts, dwarfs, and other monstrosities; operas, and 
 tight-rope dancing, and sarabands ; dogs dancing the Morrice, and the hare beating 
 the tabor ; a tiger pulling the feathers from live fowls ; the humours of Punchinello, 
 and drolls of every degree. An ox roasted whole, and piping-hot roast pig, sold in 
 savoury lots, were among the Fair luxuries : the latter, called Bartholomew Pigs, were 
 railed at by the Puritans, and eating them was "a species of idolatry." The pig- 
 market was at Pye Corner, and pig was not out of fashion in Queen Anne's time. 
 
 Among the celebrities of the Fair was Tom Dogget, the old comic actor, who " wore 
 a farce in his face," and was famous for dancing the Cheshire Round. One Ben 
 Jonson, the actor, was celebrated as the grave-digger in Hamlet, in which, he intro- 
 duced a song preserved in Durfey's Pills. Tom Walker, the original Macheatb, was 
 another Bartholomew hero. William Bullock, from York, is alluded to by Steele, in 
 The Father, and is censured for " gagging :" in 1739 he had the largest booth in the 
 Fair. Theophilus Gibber was of the Fair, but there is no evidence that Colley Gibber 
 ever appeared {here. Cadinan, the famous flyer on the rope, immortalized by Hogarth, 
 
 D
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 was a constant exhibitor at Bartholomew, as well as Southwark Fair. William 
 Phillips was a famous Merry Andrew, and some time fiddler to a puppet-show, in 
 which he held many a dialogue with Punch. Edward Phillips wrote Britons Strike 
 Home for the Fair ; and Kitty Clive played at the booth of Fawkes, Winchbeck, &c., 
 in that very farce. Harlequin Phillips was in Mrs. Lee's company, and afterwards 
 became the celebrated Harlequin at Drury-lane, under Fleetwood. Penkethman and 
 Dogget, though of very unequal reputation, are noticed in the Spectator. The first 
 in that humorous account of the Projector, in the 31st number, where it is proposed 
 that " Penkethman should personate King Porus upon an elephant, and be encountered 
 by Powell, representing Alexander the Great, upon a dromedary, which, nevertheless, 
 Mr. Powell is desired to call by the name of Bucephalus." Dogget is commended 
 (No. 502) as an admirable and genuine actor. 
 
 The public theatres were invariably closed at Bartholomew Fair time ; drolls, like 
 Estcourt and Penkethman, finding Bartholomew Fair a more profitable arena for 
 their talents than the boards of Dorset-garden or old Drury-lane. Here Elkanah 
 Settle, the rival for years of Dryden, was reduced at last to string speeches and con- 
 trive machinery ; and here, in the droll of St. George for England, he made his last 
 appearance, hissing in a green leather dragon of his own invention. 
 
 Here we may mention another class of sights, " a large and beautiful young camel 
 from Grand Cairo, in Egypt," says the advertisement : " this creature is twenty-three 
 years old ; his head and neck are like that of a deer," and he " was to be seen or sold 
 at the first house on the pavement from the end of Hosier-lane, during Bartholomew 
 Fair." And we read that later, Sir Hans Sloane employed a draughtsman to sketch 
 the wonderful foreign animals in the Fair. 
 
 There are scores of other Bartholomew celebrities actors, mummers, tumblers, 
 conjurors, and exhibitors of various grades, as Burling and his famous monkey; 
 William Joy, the English Samson ; Francis Battalia, the Stone Eater ; Topham, the 
 Strong Man ; Hale, the Piper ; the Auctioneer of Moorfields, who regularly, for a 
 .series of years, transferred his book-stall to Srnithfields Rounds ; James Spiller, the 
 original Mat o' the Mint of the Beggar's Opera, at one timo the " glory of the Fair :" 
 this piece was played at Smithfield in 1728. Punchinello was another Bartholomew 
 attraction : 
 
 " 'Twos then, when Aujjust near was spent, 
 
 That Bat, the grilliado'd saint, 
 
 Had ushered in his Smithfield revels, 
 
 Where Punchinellos, popes and devils, 
 
 Are by authority allowed, 
 
 To please the giddy, gaping crowd." 
 
 JJudibras Sedivivug, 1707. 
 
 Powell, too, the Puppet-show man, was a great card at the Fair, especially when 
 his puppets played such incomparable dramas as Whittington and his Cat, The Children 
 in the Wood, Dr. Faustus, Friar Bacon, Robin Hood and Little John, Mother 
 Shipton, " together with the pleasant and comical humours of Valentini, Nicolini, and 
 the tuneful warbling pig of Italian race." No wonder that such attractions thinned 
 the theatres, and kept the churches empty. Steele makes mention of " Powell's books :" 
 if they were books of his performances, what a treasure they would be in our day ! 
 The two great characters of Jewish history Judith and Holophernes long kept in 
 popular favour; for Setchel's fan-print of 1728 depicts Lee and Harper's great 
 theatrical booth, with an announcement of the play of Judith's Adventures as its chief 
 attraction : elevated from puppet performers to regular living actors, Judith herself 
 being seated on the platform of the show in a magnificent dress, and the high head- 
 dress and false jewellery that captivated the wicked Holophernes, who strides towards 
 her in the full costume of a Roman general. 
 
 Among Bagford's collection in the British Museum, is a Bartholomew Fair bill of 
 the time of Queen Anne, of the playing at Heatly's booth, of " a little opera, called 
 the Old Creation of the World newly revived, with the addition of the Glorious battle 
 obtained over the French and Spaniards by his Grace the DuJce of Marlborough .'" 
 Between the acts,, jigs, sarabands, and antics were performed, and the whole entertain- 
 ment concluded with The Merry Humours of Sir John Spendall and Punchinello ;
 
 BARTHOLOMEW FAIR. 35 
 
 with several other things not yet exposed." Heatly is supposed to have had no better 
 scenery than the pasteboard properties of our early theatres : 
 
 " The chaos, too, he had descried 
 And seen quite through, or else he lied; 
 Xot that of pasteboard which men shew 
 For groats at Fair of Barthol'mew." Hudibras, canto i. 
 
 Henry Fielding had his booth here, Dr. Rimbault tells us, after his admission into 
 the Middle Temple. That Fielding should have turned " strolling actor," and have 
 the audacity to appear at Bartholomew at the very moment when the whole town was 
 ringing with Pope's savage ridicule of the " Smithfield Muses," would of course be 
 an unpardonable offence. Fielding's last appearance at Bartholomew Fair was in 
 1736, as usual, in the George Inn Yard, at " Fielding and Hippisley's Booth." Don 
 Carlos and the Cheats of Scapin, adapted from Moliere, were the two plays ; and 
 Mrs. Pritchard played the part of Loveit, in which she had made her first hit at 
 Bartholomew. Other celebrities, who kept up the character of the Fair for another 
 quarter of a century, were Yates, Lee, Woodward, and Shuter, the two last well known 
 for their connexion with Goldsmith's comedies. Shuter played Croaker in the Good- 
 natured Man, and Rardcastle in She Stoops to Conquer. Woodward played Lofty in 
 the former piece. With Shuter, " the history of the English stage " (says Mr. Morley) 
 "parted entirely from the story of the Fair." Garrick's name is connected only with 
 the Fair by stories which regard him as a visitor : although Edmund Kean is stated 
 to have played here when a boy. 
 
 Among the notorieties of the Fair was Lady Holland's Mob (Lord Rich having been 
 ancestor of the Earl of Warwick and Holland), hundreds of loose fellows, principally 
 journeyman tailors, who used to assemble at the Hand and Shears, in Cloth Fair. 
 They were accustomed to sally forth knocking at the doors and ringing the bells of 
 the peaceable inhabitants, and assaulting and ill-treating passengers. These ruf- 
 fians frequently united in such strength as to defy the civil power. As late as 1822, 
 a number of them exceeding 5000 rioted in Skinner -street, and were for hours too 
 powerful for the police. 
 
 The Fair was annually proclaimed by the Lord Mayor, on the 2nd of September, 
 his lordship proceeding thither in his gilt coach, "with City Officers and trumpets;" 
 and the proclamation for the purpose read before the entrance to Cloth Fair. It was 
 the custom for the Lord Mayor, on this occasion, to call upon the keeper of Newgate, 
 and partake, on his way to Smithfield, of " a cool tankard of wine, nutmeg, and sugar." 
 This custom, which ceased in the second mayoralty of Sir Matthew Wood in 1818, 
 was the cause of the death of Sir John Shorter, Lord Mayor in 1688. In holding the 
 tankard, he let the lid slip down with so much force, that his horse started, and he was 
 thrown to the ground with great violence. He died the next day. 
 
 The Fair dwindled year by year : the writer remembers it at midnight, before gas had 
 become common : viewed from Richardson's, the shows, booths, and stalls, with their 
 flaring oil-lamps and torches, shed a strange glare over the vast sea of heads which 
 filled the area of Smithfield and the adjacent streets. As lately as 1830, upwards of 
 200 booths for toys and gingerbread crowded the pavement around the Fail-, and over- 
 flowed into the adjacent streets. Richardson, Saunders, and Wombwell were late in 
 the ascendant as showmen. Among the latest " larks " was that of young men of caste 
 disguising themselves in working clothes, to enjoy the loose delights of "Bartlemy" 
 Fair, in September. 
 
 For 300 years the Lord Mayor and Aldermen had in vain attempted to suppress 
 the Fair ; when, in 1840, upon the recommendation of the City Solicitor, Mr. Charles 
 Pearson, having purchased Lord Kensington's interest, they refused to let the ground 
 for the shows and booths but upon exorbitant prices, and limited the Fair to one day ; 
 and the State proclamation of the Lord Mayor was given up. In 1849, the Fair was 
 reduced to one or two stalls for gingerbread, gambling-tables for nuts, a few fruit- 
 tarrows and toy-stalls, and one puppet-show. In 1852, the number was still less. 
 
 " The Mayors had withdrawn the formality as much as possible from public observation, until in the 
 year 1850, and in the mayoralty of Alderman Musi?rove, his lordship having walked quietly to the 
 appointed gateway, with the necessary attendants, found that there was not any Fair left worth a 
 Mayor's proclaiming. After that year, therefore, no Mayor accompanied the gentleman whose duty it 
 
 u 2
 
 36 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 was to read a certain form of words out of a certain parchment scroll, under a quiet gateway. After 
 live years this form also was dispensed with, and Bartholomew 1'air was proclaimed for the last 
 time in the year 1855. The sole existing vestige of it is the old fee of three and sixpence still paid 
 by the City to the Rector of St. Bartholomew the Great, for a proclamation in his parish." Morley. 
 
 It was held that the proclamation was part of the charter for holding the market, 
 on which account it continued to he read, until the Act of Parliament for removing 
 the market to Copenhagen-fields at length relieved the Corporation of going through 
 the useless ceremony. 
 
 Hone, in his Every-day Book, describes the Bartholomew Fair of 1825, with the 
 minuteness of Dutch painting : Hone visited the several sights and shows, accom- 
 panied hy Samuel Williams, hy whom the wood-cut illustrations were cleverly drawn and 
 engraved. Mr. Morley's History of the Fair, which has been referred to, is a laborious 
 work, with some original views. 
 
 BARTHOLOMEWS (ST.) HOSPITAL, 
 
 IN West Smithfield, is one of the five Royal Hospitals of the City, and the first 
 institution of the kind established in the metropolis. It was originally a portion 
 of the Priory of St. Bartholomew, founded by Rahere, in 1102, who obtained from 
 Henry I. a piece of waste ground, upon which he built an hospital for a master, 
 brethren and sisters, sick persons, and pregnant women. Both the Priory and the 
 Hospital were surrendered to Henry VIII., who, at the petition of Sir Richard Gresham, 
 Lord Mayor, and father of Sir Thomas Gresham, re-founded the latter, and endowed it 
 with an annual revenue of 500 marks, the City agreeing to pay an equal sum ; since 
 which time the Hospital has received princely benefactions from charitable persons. 
 It was first placed under the superintendence of Thomas Vicary, sergeant-surgeon to 
 Henry VIII., Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth; Harvey was physician to the Hos- 
 pital for thirty- four years ; and here, in 1619, he first lectured on the discovery of the 
 Circulation of the Blood. 
 
 The Hospital buildings escaped the Great Fire in 1666 ; but becoming ruinous, 
 were taken down in 1730, and the great quadrangle rebuilt by Gibbs ; over the en- 
 trance next Smithfield is a statue of Henry VIII., and under it, " St. Bartholomew's 
 Hospital, founded by Rahere, A.D. 1102, re-founded by Henry VIII., 1546;" on the 
 pediment are two reclining figures of Lameness and Sickness. The cost of these 
 buildings was defrayed by public subscription, to which the munificent Dr. RadclifFe 
 contributed largely ; besides leaving 5002. a year for the improvement of the diet, and 
 100Z. a year to buy linen. The principal entrance, next Smithfield, was erected 
 in 1702 ; it is of poor architectural character. 
 
 The Museums, Theatres, and Library of the Hospital are very extensive; as is also 
 the New Surgery, built in 1842. The Lectures of the present day were established 
 by Mr. Abernethy, elected Assistant-Surgeon in 1787. Prizes and honorary distinc- 
 tions for proficiency in medical science were first established in 1834; and their annual 
 distribution in May is an interesting scene. In 1843 was founded a Collegiate 
 Establishment for the pupils' residence within the Hospital walls. A spacious Casu- 
 alty Room has since been added. 
 
 The interior of the Hospital, besides its cleanly and well-regulated wards, has a 
 grand staircase ; the latter painted by Hogarth, for which he was made a life-governor. 
 The subjects are the Good Samaritan ; the Pool of Bethesda ; Rahere, the founder, 
 laying the first stone ; and a sick man carried on a bier, attended by monks. In the 
 Court Room is a picture of St. Bartholomew holding a knife, as the symbol of his 
 martyrdom; a portrait of Henry VIII. in Holbein's manner ; of Dr. Radclifte, by 
 Kneller ; Perceval Pott, by Reynolds ; and of Abernethy, by Lawrence. 
 
 In January, 1846, the election of Prince Albert to a Governorship of the Hospital 
 was commemorated by the president and treasurer presenting to the foundation three 
 costly silver-gilt dishes, each nearly twenty-four inches in diameter, and richly chased 
 with a bold relief of 1. The Election of the Prince; 2. The Good Samaritan; 3. The 
 Plague of London. 
 
 The Charity is ably managed by the Corporation : the president must have served 
 as Lord Mayor; the qualification of a Governor is a donation of 100 guineas.
 
 BATHS, OLDEN. 37 
 
 " From a search made in the official records of the City, it appears that for more than three hundred 
 years, namely, since 1549, an alderman of London had always been elected president of St. Bartholomew's 
 Hospital; until 1854, whenever a vacancy occurred in the presidency of the Royal Hospitals (St. 
 Bartholomew's, Bethlehem, Bridewell, St. Thomas's, or Christ's Hospitals), it was customary to elect 
 the Lord Mayor for the time being, or an alderman who had passed the chair. This rule was first 
 broken when the Duke of Cambridge was chosen President of Christ's Hospital over the head of 
 Alderman Sidney, the then Lord Mayor ; and again when Mr. Cubitt, then no longer an alderman, was 
 elected President of St. Bartholomew's in preference to the then Lord Mayor. This question is, how- 
 ever, contested by the foundation-governors or the Corporation, and the donation-governors." 
 
 It has been shown that King Henry VIII. in 1546 vested the Hospital of St. 
 Bartholomew in the mayor, commonalty, and citizens of London, and their successors, 
 for ever, in consideration of a payment by them of 500 marks a year towards its 
 maintenance, and with it the nomination and appointment of all the officers. In. 
 September, 1557, at a general court of the Governors of all the Hospitals, it was ordered 
 that St. Bartholomew's should henceforth be united to the rest of the Hospitals, and 
 be made one body with them, and on the following day ordinances were made by the 
 Corporation for the general government of all the Hospitals. The 500 marks a year 
 have been paid by the Corporation since 1546, besides the profit of many valuable 
 leases. 
 
 This charity has an existence of nearly seven centuries and a half. The Hospital 
 receives, upon petition, cases of all kinds free of fees; and accidents, or cases of 
 urgent disease, without letter, at the Surgery, at any hour of the day or night. 
 There is also a " Samaritan Fund," for relieving distressed patients. The present 
 buildings contain 25 wards, consisting of 650 beds, 400 being for surgical cases, and 
 250 for medical cases and the diseases of women. Each ward is presided over by a 
 " sister" and nurses, to the number of nearly 180 persons. In addition to a very ex- 
 tensive medical staff, there are four resident surgeons and two resident apothecaries, 
 who are always on duty, day and night, throughout the year, to attend to whatever 
 may be brought in at any hour of the twenty-four. It further possesses a College 
 within itself, a priceless museum ; and a first-class Medical School, conducted by thirty- 
 six professors and assistants. The "View-day," for this and the other Royal Hospitals 
 of the City, is a day specially set apart by the authorities to examine, in their official 
 collective capacity, every portion of the establishment ; when the public are admitted. 
 
 BATHS, OLDEN. 
 
 fPHE most ancient Bath in the metropolis is " the old Roman Spring Bath" in 
 J- Strand-lane ; but evidently unknown to Stow, though, he mentions the locality 
 as " a lane or way down to the landing-place on the banks of the Thames." This 
 Bath is in a vaulted chamber, and is formed of thin tile-like brick, layers of cement 
 and rubble-stones, all corresponding with the materials of the Roman wall of London ; 
 the water is beautifully clear and extremely cold. The property can be traced to the 
 Danvers, or D'Anvers, family, of Swithland Hall, Leicestershire, whose mansion 
 stood upon the spot. 
 
 St. Agnes-le-Clair Baths, Tabernacle-square, Finsbury, arc supposed originally to 
 have been of the above age, from finding the Roman tiles through which the water 
 was once conveyed. Stow mentions them . as " Dame Anne's the clear." The date 
 assigned to these Baths is 1502. This famous spring was dedicated to St. Agnes ; 
 and, from the transparency and salubrity of its waters, denominated St. Agnes-le- 
 Clair. It has claims to antiquity, for it appears that in the reign of Henry VIII. it 
 was thus named : " Fons voc' Dame Agnes a Clere." It is described as belonging to 
 Charles Stuart, late king of England. This spring was said to be of great efficacy in 
 all rheumatic and nervous cases, headache, &c. 
 
 Peerless Pool, Baldwin-street, City-road, is referred to by Stow as near St. Agnes-le- 
 Clair, and " one other clear water, called Perilous Pond, because divers youths, by 
 swimming therein, have been drowned ;" but this ominous name was change to Peerless 
 Pool ; in 1743, it was enclosed, and converted into a bathing-place. 
 
 The Cold Bath, Clerkenwell, was originally the property of one Walter Baynes, who 
 purchased a moiety of the estate, in 1696 ; when it comprised Windmill-hill, or Sir 
 John Oldcastle's Field, extending westward from Sir John Oldcastle's to the River
 
 88 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Fleet, or, as it was then called, Turnmill-brook ; and southward, by Coppice-row, to 
 the same brook, near the Clerks' Wells : while Gardiner's Farm was the plot on 
 which stands the Middlesex House of Correction. Baynes's attention was first 
 directed to the Cold Spring, which, in 1697, he converted into a Bath, spoken of, 
 eleven years afterwards, in Hatton's New View, as " the most noted and first about 
 London," which assertion, written so near the time at which it states the origin of our 
 Cold Bath, disproves the story of its having been the bath of Nell Gwynn, whom a 
 nude figure, on porcelain, preserved by the proprietor, is said to represent. In Mr. 
 Baynes's time, the charge for bathing was 2s. : or, in the case of patients who, from 
 weakness, required the " chair," 2*. 6d. The chair was suspended from the ceiling, 
 in such a manner that a person placed in it could be thereby lowered into the water, 
 and drawn up again in the same way. The spring was at the acme of its reputation 
 in 1700. Of its utility, in cases of weakness more especially, there can be no ques- 
 tion. Besides which, its efficacy is stated in the cure of scorbutic complaints, nervous 
 affections, rheumatism, chronic disorders, &c. It is a chalybeate, and deposits a saline 
 incrustation. The spring is said to supply 20,000 gallons daily. The height to 
 which it rises in the marble receptacles prepared for it, is four feet seven inches. 
 Until the sale of the estate in 1811, the Bath House, with the garden in which it 
 stood, comprised an area of 103 feet by 60, enclosed by a brick wall, with a summer- 
 house (resembling a little tower) at each angle : the house had several gables. The 
 garden was let on building-leases, and the whole is now covered with houses, the 
 Bath remaining in the midst. In 1815, the exterior of the Bath House was nearly all 
 taken down, leaving only a small portion of its frontage, which it still retains. 
 
 The Duke's Hath, or Bagnio, is minutely described by Samuel Haworth, in 1683, as 
 " erected near the west end of Long Acre, in that spot of ground called Salisbury 
 Stables." Here dwelt Sir William Jennings, who obtained the royal patent for making 
 all public bagnios or baths, either for sweating, bathing, or washing. " In one of the 
 ante-rooms hangs a pair of scales, to weigh such as out of curiosity would know how 
 much they lose in weight while they are in the bagnio. The bagnio itself is a stately 
 oval edifice, with a cupola roof, hi which are round glasses to let in light. The 
 cupola is supported by eight columns, between which and the sides is a ' sumptuous 
 walk,' arched over with brick. The bagnio is paved with marble, and has a marble 
 table ; the sides are covered with white gully-tiles, and within the wall were ten seats, 
 such as are in the baths at Bath. There are also fourteen niches in the walls, in 
 which are placed so many fonts or basins, with cocks over them of hot or cold water. 
 On one side of the bagnio hangs a very handsome pendulum-clock, which is kept to 
 give an exact account how time passeth away. Adjoining to the bagnio there are four 
 little round rooms, about eight feet over, which are made for degrees of heat, some 
 being hotter, others colder, as persons can best bear and are pleased to use. These 
 rooms are also covered with cupolas, and their walls with gully-tiles." We refer the 
 reader to Haworth's account for the details of "the entertainment," as the bath is termed. 
 
 On the east side of the Bagnio fronting the street, is " The Duke's Bagnio Coffee- 
 house." A great gate opens into a courtyard, for coaches. In this courtyard is visible 
 the front of the Bagnio, having this inscription upon it in golden letters, upon a carved 
 stone : " The Duke's Bagnio." On the left of the yard is a building for the accom- 
 modation required for the bath, on the outside of which is inscribed in like manner 
 " The Duke's Bath." The building is about 42 feet broad, 21 feet deep, and three 
 stories high. There is on the lower story a room for a laboratory, in which are chemic 
 furnaces, glasses, and other instruments necessary for making the bath waters. On 
 the accession of the Duke of York to the throne, the Baths were improved, and re- 
 opened, under the name of the " King's Bagnio," in 1686, by Leonard Cuuditt, who, 
 in his advertisement, says "There is no other Bagnio in or about London besides this 
 and the Royal Bagnio in the City." This, Malcolm supposes, was in allusion to the 
 Bagnio we shall next describe, which seems to have been the first we had in the capital. 
 
 The Bagnio, in Bagnio-court (altered to Bath-street in 1843), Newgate-street, was 
 built by Turkish merchants, and first opened in December, 1679, for sweating, hot 
 bathing, and cupping. It has a cupola roof, marble steps, and Dutch tile walls, and 
 was latterly used as a cold Bath.
 
 BATHS, OLDEN. 
 
 Queen Anne's Bath was at the back of the house No. 3, Endell-street, Long-acre, oil 
 the west side of the street. It has been converted into a wareroom by an iron- 
 monger whose shop is in the front of the premises. The part occupied by the water 
 has been boarded over, leaving some of the Dutch tiles which line the sides of the 
 Bath visible. The water, which flows from a copious spring, is a powerful tonic, and 
 contains a considerable trace of iron. Thirty years ago it was much used in the 
 neighbourhood, when it was considered good for rheumatism and other disorders. The 
 house in which the Bath is situate was -formerly No. 3, Old Belton-street : it was 
 newly -fronted in 1845 ; the exterior had originally red brick pilasters, and a cornice, in 
 the style of Inigo Jones. It does not seem clear hosv this place obtained the name of 
 Queen Anne's Bath. It might be supposed that this had been a portion of the King's 
 Bagnio. Old maps of London, however, show this could scarcely be correct, for the 
 Duke's, afterwards the King's Bagnio was on the south side of Long-acre, and the 
 above Bath is about a hundred yards to the north of that thoroughfare. " Queen 
 Anne's Bath" is engraved from a recent sketch in the Builder, Oct. 12, 1861 ; whence 
 the preceding details of the three Baths are abridged. 
 
 The Hummums, in Covent-garden, now an hotel, with baths, was formerly "a 
 Bagnio, or Place for Sweating ;" in Arabic " Hammam." Malcolm says : " The Arabic 
 root hama, \+ it ., signifies calescere, to grow warm : hence by the usual process of deriv- 
 ing nouns from verbs in that language, hummum, -*, a warm bath. They are known 
 
 by that name all over the East." The Bagnio at the hot Baths at Sophia, in Turkey, 
 is thus described by Lady Mary Wortley Montague, in her Letters, vol. i., and probably 
 her description suggested the name of the Old and New Hummums :" 
 
 " It is built of stone, in the shape of a dome, with no window but in the roof, which gives light 
 enough. There are five of these domes joined together ; the outermost being less than the rest, and 
 serving as a hall, where the portress stood at the door. Ladies of quality generally gave this woman a 
 crown or ten shillings. The next room was a large one, paved with marble, and all round it are two 
 raised sofas of marble, one above the other. There were four fountains of cold water in this room, 
 falling first into marbie basins, and then running on the floor in little channels cut for that purpose, 
 which carried the streams into the next room, which is something less, and fitted with the same sort of 
 marble sofas; but from the streams of sulphur proceeding from the bath adjoining to it, it is impossible 
 to stay with one's clothes on. Through the other two doors were the hot baths; one of which had 
 cocks of cold water turned into it tempering it to what degree of warmth the bather please to have." 
 
 Queen Elizabeth's Bath formerly stood among a cluster of old buildings adjoining the 
 King's Mews, at Charing Cross, and was removed in 1831. Of this Bath a plan and 
 view were presented to the Society of Antiquaries, Feb. 9, 1832, and are engraved in 
 the Archaologia, xxv. 588-90. The building was nearly square on the plan, and was 
 constructed of fine red brick. Its chief merit consisted in its groined roof, which was 
 of very neat workmanship, and formed by angular ribs springing from corbels. The 
 form of the arch denoted the date of this building to be the fifteenth century. 
 
 The Floating Baths (of which there were two in our day) upon the Thames, in plan 
 remind one of the Folly described by Tom Brown as a " musical summer-house," 
 usually anchored opposite Somerset House Gardens. The Queen of William III. and 
 her court once visited it ; but it became a scene of low debauchery, and the bath build- 
 ing was left to decay, and be taken away for firewood. 
 
 The Turkish Bath, which closely resembles the Bath of the old Romans, was 
 introduced into Ireland and England in 1856 : and in London handsome baths 
 were erected in Victoria-street, Westminster; these were taken down in 1855-6. 
 The most extensive establishment of this class in London is the Hammam, or hot-air 
 Bath, opened in 1862, No. 76, Jermyn-street, St. James's, and formed under the 
 superintendence of Mr. David Urquhart ; its cost is stated at 6000/. ; the architecture 
 is from Eastern sources. 
 
 BATHS AND WASH-HOUSES, for the working classes, originated in 1844, with an 
 " Association for Promoting Cleanliness among the Poor," who fitted up a Bath-house 
 and a Laundry in Glass-house Yard, East Smithfield ; where, in the year ending June 
 1847, the bathers, washers, and ironers amounted to 84,584; the bathers and washers 
 costing about one penny each, and the ironers about one farthing. The Association 
 also gave whitewash, and lent pails and brushes, to those willing to cleanse their own 
 wretched dwellings. And so strong was the love of cleanliness thus encouraged, that
 
 40 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 women often toiled to wash their own and their children's clothing, who had been com- 
 pelled to sell their hair to purchase food to satisfy the cravings of hunger. This 
 successful experiment led to the passing of an Act of Parliament (9 and 10 Viet. c. 74), 
 " To Encourage the Establishment of Baths and Wash-houses." A Committee sat at 
 Exeter Hall for the same object ; a Model Establishment was built in Goulston -square, 
 Whitechapel ; and Baths and Wash-houses were established in St. Pancras, Maryle- 
 bone, St. Martiii-in-the-Fields, and other large metropolitan parishes. 
 
 BAYNASD'S CASTLE. 
 
 A STRONGHOLD, " built with walls and rampires," on the banks of the Thames 
 below St. Paul's, by Bainiardus, a follower of William the Conqueror. In 1111 
 it was forfeited, and granted by Henry I. to Robert Fitzgerald, son of Gilbert, Earl of 
 Clare ; from whom it passed, by several descents, to the Fitzwalters (the chief ban- 
 nerets of London, probably in fee for this castle), one of whom, at the commencement 
 of a war, was bound to appear at the west door of St. Paul's, armed and mounted, 
 with twenty attendants, and there receive from the Mayor the banner of the City, a 
 horse worth 201., and 201. in money. In 1428, the castle became, probably by 
 another forfeiture, crown property ; it was almost entirely burnt, but was granted to 
 Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, by whom it was rebuilt ; upon his attainder, it again 
 reverted to the Crown. Here Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, presented to Richard, 
 Duke of Gloucester, a parchment purporting to be a declaration of the three estates in 
 favour of Richard; and in the "Court of Baynard's Castle" Shakspeare has laid 
 scenes 3 and 7, act iii., of King "Richard III. ; the latter between Buckingham, the 
 Mayor, Aldermen, and citizens, and Gloucester. Baynard's Castle was repaired by 
 Henry VII., and used as a royal palace until the reign of Queen Elizabeth, when it 
 was let to the Earls of Pembroke; and here, in 1553, the Privy Council, "changing 
 their mind from Lady Jane," proclaimed Queen Mary. The castle subsequently 
 became the residence of the Earls of Shrewsbury. Pepys records King Charles II. 
 supping here, 19th June, 1660 ; and six years after the castle was destroyed in the 
 Great Fire. The buildings surrounded two court-yards, with the south front to the 
 Thames, and the north in Thames-street, where was the principal entrance. Two of 
 the towers, incorporated with other buildings, remained till the present century, when 
 they were pulled down to make way for the Carron Iron Company's premises. The 
 ward in which stood the fortress-palace is named Castle-Baynard, as is also a wharf 
 upon the site ; and a public-house in the neighbourhood long bore the sign of " Duke 
 Humphrey's Head." 
 
 In Notes and Queries, No. 11, it is shown that Bainiardus, who gave his name to 
 Baynard's Castle, held land here of the Abbot of Westminster ; and in a grant of 1653 
 is described " the common field at Paddington" (now Bayswater Field), as being " near 
 to a place commonly called Baynard's Watering." Hence it is concluded " that this 
 portion of ground, always remarkable for its springs of excellent water, once supplied 
 water to Baynard, his household, or his castle ; that the memory of his name was pre- 
 served in the neighbourhood for six centuries ;" and that this watering-place is now 
 Bayswater. 
 
 BAZAARS. 
 
 THE Bazaar is an adaptation from the East, the true principle of which is the classifi- 
 cation of trades. Thus, Paternoster-row, with its books; Newport Market, with 
 its butchers' shops; and Monmouth- street with its shoes; are more properly Bazaars 
 than the miscellaneous stalls assembled under cover, which are in London designated by 
 this name. Exeter 'Change was a great cutlery bazaar ; and the row of attorneys' 
 shops in the Lord Mayor's Court Office, in the second Royal Exchange, were a kind of 
 legal Bazaar, the name of each attorney being inscribed upon a projecting signboard. 
 The Crystal Palace of 1851, and the Great Exhibition of 1862, were vast assemblages 
 of Bazaars. The Crystal Palace at Sydenham partakes of this character. 
 
 The introduction of the Bazaar into the metropolis dates from 1816, when was 
 opened the SOHO BAZAAR, at 4, 5, and 6, Soho-square. It was planned solely by Mr.
 
 BAZAAUS. 41 
 
 John Trotter, with a truly benevolent motive. At the termination of the War, when 
 a great number of widows, orphans, and relatives of those who had lost their lives 
 on foreign service were in distress and without employment, Mr. Trotter conceived that 
 an establishment in the hands of Government would promote the views of the respect- 
 able and industrious (possessing but small means) by affording them advantages to 
 begin business without great risk and outlay of capital. Mr. Trotter having at that 
 time an extensive range of premises unoccupied, without any idea of personal emolu- 
 ment, offered them to Government, free of expense, for several years, engaging also to 
 undertake their direction and management on the same disinterested terms. His 
 scheme was, however, considered visionary, and his offer rejected. Mr. Trotter then 
 undertook the responsibility himself; the Bazaar was opened 1st February, 1816, and 
 by excellent management, the establishment has since flourished ; this success being 
 mainly attributable to the selection of persons of respectability as its inmates, for whose 
 protection an efficient superintendence of several matrons is provided. The counters 
 are mostly for fancy goods, and to obtain a tenancy requires a testimonial respectably 
 signed. The success of the Soho Bazaar led to establishments formed by private 
 individuals, but with only temporary success. 
 
 The WESTERN EXCHANGE, Old Bond-street (with an entrance from the Burlington 
 Arcade), was burnt down, and not re-established. 
 
 The QUEEN'S BAZAAR, on the north side of Oxford-street, the rear in Castle-street, 
 was destroyed, May 23, 1829, by a fire which commenced at a dioramic exhibition of 
 "the Destruction of York Minster by fire." The Bazaar was rebuilt; but proving 
 unsuccessful, was taken down, and upon the site was built the Princess' Theatre. 
 
 The PANTHEON BAZAAB, on the south side of Oxford-street, with an entrance in 
 Great Marlborough-street, was constructed in 1834, from the designs of Sydney Smirke, 
 A.R.A., within the walls of the Pantheon Theatre, built in 1812 ; the fronts to Oxford- 
 street and Poland-street being the only remains of the original structure. The mag- 
 nificent staircase leads to a suite of rooms, in which pictures are placed for sale ; and 
 thence to the great Basilical Hall or Bazaar, which is 116 feet long, 88 feet wide, and 
 60 feet high ; it is mostly lighted from curved windows in the roof, which is richly 
 decorated, as are the piers of the arcades, with arabesque scrolls of flowers, fruit, and 
 birds ; the ornaments of papier-mache by Bielefield. The style of decoration is from 
 the loggias of the Vatican. The galleries and the floor are laid out with counters, and 
 promenades between. From the southern end of the hall is the entrance to an elegant 
 conservatory and aviary, mostly of glass, ornamented in Saracenic style. Here are birds 
 of rich plumage, with luxuriant plants, which, with the profusion of marble, gilding, 
 and colour, have a very pleasing effect in the heart of the smoky town. 
 
 The BAZAAR in Baker-street, Portman-square, was originally established for the 
 sale of horses; but carriages, harness, furniture, stoves, and glass are the commodities 
 now sold here. Madame Tussaud's Wax-work Exhibition occupies the greater part; 
 and here, annually, in December, the Smithfield Club Cattle Show formerly took place. 
 
 The PANTECHNICON, Halkin-street, Belgrave- square, is a Bazaar chiefly for carriages 
 and furniture. Here, too, you may warehouse furniture, wine, pictures, and carriages, 
 for any period, at a light charge compared with house-rent. 
 
 The LOWTHEK BAZAAR, nearly opposite the Lowther Arcade, Strand, was a reposi- 
 tory of fancy goods, besides a " Magic Cave," and other exhibitions. The establish- 
 ment was frequently visited by Louis Philippe from 1848 to 1850. The Magic Cave, 
 with its cosmoramic pictures, realized 1500. per annum, at 6d. for each admission. 
 This and the house adjoining, eastward, have fronts of tasteful architectural design. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S BAZAAE, King-street, St. James's-street, was built for Mr. Crockford, 
 in 1832, and has a saloon nearly 200 feet long by 40 wide. Here were exhibited, in 
 1841, three dioramic tableaux of the second obsequies of Napoleon, in Paris, at Decem- 
 ber, 1841. And in 1814 took place here the first exhibition of Decorative Works for 
 the New Houses of Parliament. 
 
 The COSJIOEAIIA, No. 207-209, Regent-street, originally an exhibition of views of
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 places through large convex lenses, was altered into a Bazaar, subsequently, the 
 Prince of Wales's Bazaar. 
 
 The ANTI-COKN-LA\V LEAGUE BAZAAK was held in the spring of 1845, when the 
 auditory and stage of Covent-garden Theatre were fitted up for this purpose, and in six 
 weeks 25,OOOZ. was cleared by the speculation, partly by admission-money. The 
 Theatre was painted as a vast Tudor Hall, by Messrs. Grieve, and illuminated with gas 
 in the day -time ; the goods being exhibited for sale on stalls, appropriated to the great 
 manufacturing localities of the United Kingdom. At this time the Theatre was let 
 to the League at 3000 guineas for the term of holding the Bazaar, and one night per 
 week for public meetings throughout one year. 
 
 The POBTLAND BAZAAR, 19, Langham-place, is noted for its " German Fair," and 
 its display of cleverly-modelled toy figures of animals. 
 
 BEGGARS. 
 
 BEGGING, although illegal, and forbidden by one of our latest statutes, is followed 
 as a trade in the metropolis, perhaps more systematically than in any other 
 European capital. It has been stated that the number of professional Beggars in and 
 about London amounts to 15,000, more than two-thirds of whom are Irish. 
 
 The vigilance of the Police, and the exposure of Beggars' frauds by the press and 
 upon the stage (from the Beggar's Opera to Tom and Jerry), have done much towards 
 the suppression of Begging. The Mendicity Society, in Red Lion-square, Holborn, 
 established in 1818, has also moderated the evil by exposing and punishing impostors, 
 and relieving deserving persons. The receipts of this institution are upwards of 40001. 
 a year. In one day it has distributed 3300 meals. The Society has a mill, stone- 
 yard, and oakum-room, in which, during one day, there have been employed 763 
 persons, who would otherwise have been begging in the streets. A record is kept of 
 all begging-letter cases, from which police-magistrates obtain information as to the 
 character of persons brought before them. There are other societies for similar objects. 
 
 Sir John Fielding, in his " Cautions," published in 1776, gives a curious picture of 
 the Sky Farmers who imposed upon the benevolent, as " good old charitable ladies," 
 with dreadful stories of losses by fire, inundations, &c., for which the cheats collected 
 subscriptions entered in a book, setting out with false names. Sir John says : 
 
 There are persons in this town who get a very good livelihood by writing letters and petitions of this 
 stamp. A woman stuffed up as if she was ready to lie in. with two or three borrowed children and a 
 letter, giving an account of her husband's falling off a scaffold and breaking his limbs, by being drowned 
 at sea, is an irresistible object. 
 
 Many years ago, there died in Broad-street Buildings, aged 81, John Yardley 
 Vernon, who wore in the streets the garb of a beggar, though he possessed 100,000^., 
 which he realized as a stockbroker. 
 
 Mr. Henry Mayhew has given us the fullest report of the Beggar-life of our time : 
 which has been supplemented by Mr. Halliday : all tending to prove that indiscrimi- 
 nate relief of street-beggars is most delusive and dangerous. . 
 
 With the ordinary types of " disaster beggars," such as shipwrecked mariners, blown-up miners 
 " those having real or pretended sores vulgarly known as the scaldman dodge," we are all familiar. 
 But there are oddities and niceties even in this humble department of the Begging art. There are, 
 for instance, the lucifer droppers. The business of these persons is to take a box or two of lucifers, and 
 offer them for sale at a crowded and dirty corner. They choose a victim, and contrive to get in his way. 
 Down go the lucifers in the mud, and the professional sets up a piteous howl. The gentleman is 
 ashamed of having done so much mischief, and to quiet the complainant, who is generally of the softer 
 sex, he gives her many times the worth of her dropped lucifers. " Famished Beggars " seem highly 
 successful in their own line, but their success demands the natural advantages of a corpse-like face, an 
 emaciated frame, and a power of enduring the winter's cold in rags. Among those endowed with these 
 requisites, the more accomplished performers have invented many ingenious subtleties. One device is 
 the " choking dodge." The famished beggar seizes on a crust and eagerly devours it ; but he has been 
 too long without food he tries in vain to swallow it, and it sticks in his throat. Another device is that 
 of the " offal-eaters." These people decline absolutely to eat anything but what they find in the gutters. 
 When we hear of all the trouble and ingenuity that is expended in deceiving us, we may well feel inclined 
 to ask, as a beggar was once asked, " Don't you think you would have found it more profitable had you 
 taken to labour or to some honester calling than your present one ?" But the candid answer returned 
 is suggestive. " Well, sir, p'raps I might," he replied j "but going on the square is so dreadfully con- 
 fining." Saturday Review, 1862.
 
 BELGRAVIA BELLS AND CHIMES. 43 
 
 SELGEAVIA 
 
 WAS originally applied as a sobriquet f to Belgrave and Eaton Squares and the 
 radiating streets, but is now received as the legitimate name of this aristocratic 
 quarter. In 1824, its site was " the Five Fields," intersected by mud-banks, and occu- 
 pied by a few sheds. The clayey swamp retained so much water, that no one would 
 build there ; and the " Fields " were the terror of foot-passengers proceeding from 
 London to Chelsea after nightfall. At length, Mr. Thomjis Cubitt found the strata to con- 
 sist of gravel and clay, of considerable depth : the clay he removed, and burned into bricks; 
 and by building upon the substratum of gravel, he converted this spot from the most 
 unhealthy to one of the most healthy, to the immense advantage of the ground-land- 
 lord and the whole metropolis. This is one of the most perfect adaptations of the 
 means to the end to be found in the records of the building art. In 1829, the same 
 land, consisting of about 140 acres, was nearly covered with first and second class 
 houses, the nucleus being Belgrave-square, designed by George Basevi ; the detached 
 mansions, at the angles, by Hardwick, Kendall, and others ; the area, originally a 
 nursery garden, about ten acres. The level is low ; for it has been ascertained that the 
 ground-floor of Westbourne-terrace, Hyde Park Gardens, 70 feet above the Thames 
 high-water mark, is on a level with the attics of Eaton and Belgrave Squares. Yet 
 Chelsea acquired a proverbial salubrity in the last century by Doctors Arbuthnot, 
 Sloane, Mead, and Cadogan residing there. 
 
 Mr. Thomas Cubitt, who died in 1856, was, in his nineteenth year, working as a journeyman car- 
 penter; he then took one voyage to India and back as captain's joiner, and on his return to London 
 with his savings, commenced business in the metropolis as a carpenter. In about six years, upon a tract 
 of ground in Gray's Inn-road, he erected large workshops. About 1824, he engaged with the Duke of 
 Bedford and Lord Southampton for the ground on which Tavistock-square and Gordon-square, with 
 Woburn-place, and adjoining streets, now stand. In the same year he engaged with the Marquis of West- 
 minster and Mr. Lowndes, to cover large portions of" the Five Fields," and ground adjacent : the results 
 are Belgrave-square, Lowndes-square, Chesham-place, and other ranges of houses. He subsequently 
 engaged to cover the vast open district lying between Eaton-square and the Thames, now South Bel- 
 gravia. His works and establishment were at Thames Bank : they were destroyed by fire, by 
 which Mr. Cubitt lost 30,0001. ; when he was apprised of the calamity, his noble reply was, " Tell the 
 men they shall be at work within a week, and I will subscribe 6002. towards buying them new tools." 
 His large engagements as to Belgrave-square, begun in 1825, hadjust been completed iu the year of his 
 death; and his own dwelling-house at Denbies, in which he died, had only been just finished, as the 
 future residence of his family. His portrait has been painted and engraved. He had two brothers, 
 Alderman Cubitt, twice Lord Mayor"; and Lewis Cubitt, the eminent engineer, architect of the Great 
 Northern Railway Terminus. Memoir in the Bzdlder, 1856. 
 
 SELLS AND CHIMES, 
 
 THE histories of the various peals of Bells in the metropolis, and the Societies by 
 which their ringing has been reduced to scientific standards are interesting. 
 Commencing from the Conquest, we have 
 
 THE CTTKFEW. Although the Couvre-feu law was abolished by Henry I., who restored 
 the use of lamps and candles at night after the ringing of the Curfew-bell, which had 
 been prohibited by his predecessors (Will. Malmesb., fol. 88), yet the custom of ringing- 
 the bell long continued ; and in certain parishes of the metropolis, and in some parts 
 of the country, to the present time, 
 
 "The curfew tolls the knell of parting day." 
 
 Among the charges directed for the wardmote inquests of London, in the second 
 mayoralty of Sir Henry Colet (A.D. 1495), it is said : " Also yf there be anye paryshe 
 clerke that ryngeth curfewe after the curfewe be ronge at Bowe Chyrche, or Saint 
 Brydes Chyrche, or Saint Gyles without Cripelgat, all suche to be presented." 
 (Knight's Life of Dean Colet). The same charge is in the wardmote inquest 1649. 
 
 " The church of St. Martin's-le-Grand, with those of Bow, St. Giles's, Cripplegate, and Barkin, had 
 its Curfew-bell long after the servile injunction laid on the Londoners had ceased. These were sounded 
 to give notice to the inhabitants of those districts to keep within, and not to wander in the streets; 
 which were infested by a set of ruffians, who made a practice of insulting, wounding, robbing, and. 
 murdering the people whom they happened to meet abroad during the night." Strype's Stow, v. L 
 book iii. p. 106. 
 
 "The Couvre-feu is still rung, at eight o'clock, at St. Edmund the King, Lombard-street. At 
 Bishopsgate (St. Botolph's) ; St. Leonard's, Shoreditch; Christchurch, Spitalfieldsj St. Michael's, 
 Queenhithe; St. Mildred's, Bread -street ;* St. Autholin's, Budge-row ; and in some other City churches, 
 
 * The bell at this church was silenced by order of vestry, December, 18i7.
 
 44 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 there are bells, which are popularly known as the couvre-feu, but some of which are really, I believe 
 prayer-bells. 
 
 "On the southern side of the Thames, the couvre-feu was, till within these six or seven years, nightly 
 rung at St. George's Church, Borough." Mr. Syer Cuming : Proceedings of the Uritiih Archaeological 
 Association, April 12, 1848. 
 
 Mr. Cuming also states that at St. Peter's Hospital, Newington (the Fishmongers' 
 Almshouses, taken down in 1851), there was " a bell rung every evening from eight 
 o'clock till nine, which the old parishioners were wont to denominate the couvre-feu ; 
 but it is now said that this was rung to warn all strangers from the premises, and the 
 almspeople to their several apartments." 
 
 The Curfew was not always rung at eight o'clock, for the sexton in the old play of 
 the Merry Devil of Edmonton (4to. 1631) says : 
 
 " Well, 'tis nine a cloke, 'tis time to ring curfew." 
 
 The Curfew-bell, strictly as such, had probably fallen into disuse previous to the time 
 of Shakspeare, who, in Romeo and Juliet, applies the term to the morning bell : 
 
 " The second cock hath crow'd, 
 The curfew-bell has rung, 'tis three o'clock." 
 
 At Charterhouse, the Chapel-bell (which bears the arms and initials of Thomas 
 Sutton, the founder, and the date 1631) is rung at eight and nine to warn the absent 
 pensioner of the approaching hour ; and this practice is, we think, erroneously adduced 
 as a relic of Curfew-ringing. 
 
 " There is one peculiarity attached to the ringing, which is calculated to serve the office of the 
 ordinary passing-bell ; and that is the number of strokes, which must correspond with the number of 
 pensioners. So that when a brother-pensioner has deceased, his companions are informed of their 
 loss by one stroke of the bell less than on the preceding evening." ChroniclesofCharterhov.se, p. ISO. 
 
 The Couvre-feu formerly in the collection of the Rev. Mr. Gostling, and so often engraved, passed 
 into the possession of Horace Walpole, and was sold at Strawberry Hill, in 1843, to Mr. William Knight. 
 It is of copper, riveted together, and in general form resembles the " Dutch-oven" of the present day. 
 It is stated to have been used for extinguishing a fire, by raking the wood and embers to the back of 
 the hearth, and then placing the open part of the couvre-feu close against the back of the chimney. In 
 February, 1842, Mr. Syer Cuming purchased of a curiosity-dealer in Chancery-lane a couvre-feu closely 
 resembling Mr. Gostling's; and Mr. Cuming considers both specimens to be of the same age, of the 
 close of the loth or early part of the 16th century; whereas Mr. Gostling's specimen was stated to be 
 of the Norman period. A third example of the couvre-feu exists in the Canterbury Museum. Another 
 Couvre-feu was sold by Messrs. Foster, in Pall Mall, April 11, 1866; reputed date 1068. 
 
 The BELL OF THE CLOCHARD, or Bell-tower, of the ancient Palace at Westminster 
 had a curious destination. Although we find the details of building the tower, by King 
 Edward III., we find nothing respecting the construction or even placing of the clock, 
 or the casting of not one, but three bells ; but bell-ropes and a vice or engine are 
 mentioned. In later accounts (Henry VI.) we, however, have the expense of maintain- 
 ing the clock and bells, for the superintendence of which Thomas Clockmaker received 
 13s. 4d. a year as his salary ; he was but a subordinate officer ; the account being 
 rendered by Agnes de la Van, the wife of Jeffrey de la Van, who was himself the 
 deputy of John Lenharn, who is designated " Gustos orologii domini Regis infra pala- 
 tium suum Westmonasterio." Rev. J. Hunter, F.S.A. : Arch&ologia, xxxvii. 23. 
 
 Aubrey, in his Natural History of Wiltshire, ed. Britton, p. 102, has this note : 
 " The great bell at Westminster, in the Clockiar at the Ne'w Palace Yard, 36,000 lib. 
 weight. * * It wns given by Jo. Montacute, Earle of (Salisbury, I think). Part 
 
 of the inscription is thus, so. ' , annis ab acuto monte Johannis' " The 
 
 three clock-bells when taken down, however, weighed less than 20,000 Ib. The metal 
 of the largest bell is now part of the great bell of St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 The GEEAT BELL for the Westminster Palace Clock was cast at Norton, near 
 Stockton-on-Tees, from the design of E. B. Denison, Q.C., in 1856, by Warner and 
 Sons, Cripplegate ; its metal was nearly as hard as spring-steel, and it cracked in the 
 sounding at Westminster, before it was attempted to be raised. It was then broken 
 into pieces, and carted away to Mears's Foundry, Whitechapel, and there re-cast, with 
 2^ tons less metal ; the clapper weighs about 6 cwt. : the former weighed 12 cwt. It 
 was raised Nov. 18, 1858 ; weight of bell, ll tons : name, " St. Stephen j " note, 
 nearer the true E natural than that of the first bell. This great bell having cracked, 
 the clock for a time struck the quarters on the four quarter-bells, and the hour also on 
 the largest of them, which is smaller, but more powerful, as well as sweeter in tone, 
 than the great bell of St. Paul's : its weight is 4 tons. The great or hour bell has been 
 repaired, and is now in use.
 
 SELLS AND CHUTES. 45 
 
 ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL has four bells, one in the northern, and three in the 
 southern or clock-tower : the former is tolled for prayer three times a day, and has a 
 clapper ; butneither of the four can be raised upon end and rung, as other church-bells. 
 In the clock-tower are hung two bells for the quarters, and above them is hung the 
 Great Bell, on gudgeons or axles, on which it moves when struck by the hammer of 
 the clock. It was cast principally from the metal of a bell in the clock-tower opposite 
 Westminster Hall Gate, which, before the Reformation, was named "Edward;" 
 subsequently to the time of Henry VIII., as appears by two lines in Eccles's Glee, it 
 was called "Great Tom," as Gough conjectures, by a corruption of grand, ton, 
 from its deep, sonorous tone. On August 1, 1698, the clochard, or tower, was granted 
 by William III. to St. Margaret's parish, and was taken down: when the bell was 
 found to weigh 82 cwt. 2 qrs. 21 Ibs., and was bought at lOd. per lb., producing 
 3S5. 17s. 6rf., for St. Paul's. While being conveyed over the boundary of West- 
 minster, under Temple Ear, it fell from the carriage ; it stood under a shed in the 
 Cathedral Yard for some years, and was at length re-cast, with additional metal, 
 the inscription stating it to have been "brought from the ruins of. Westminster." 
 It was cast in 1709, by Richard Phelps, of Whitechapel, whose successors in the 
 foundry, Charles and George Mears, state the dimensions, &c., as follows : " Diameter, 
 6 feet 9^ inches ; height to top of crown, 6 feet 4^ inches ; thickness at sound bow, 
 5|- inches ; weight, 5 tons 4 cwt. We have a portion of the agreement made between 
 the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's and Mr. Phelps, dated July 8th, 1709, it which it 
 is stipulated that the hour-bell and quarters should be delivered at the Cathedral by 
 the 1st of October in the same year." 
 
 " The key-note (tonic) or sound of this bell is A flat (perhaps it was A natural, 
 agreeably to the pitch at the time it was cast), but the sound heard at the greatest 
 distance is that of E flat, or a fifth above the key-note ; and a musical ear, when close 
 by, can perceive several harmonic sounds." W. Parry. 
 
 The Great Bell is never used, except for the striking of the hour, and for tolling at 
 the deaths and funerals of any of the Royal Family, the Bishop of London, the Dean 
 of the Cathedral; and the Lord Mayor, should he die in his mayoralty. The same 
 hammer which strikes the hours has always been used to toll the bell, on the occasion 
 of a demise ; but the sound then produced is not so loud as when the hour is struck, 
 in consequence of the heavy clock-weight not being attached when the bell is tolled, 
 and causing the hammer to strike with greater force than by manual strength. 
 
 It was the Westminster " Great Tom " which the sentinel on duty at Windsor 
 Castle, during the reign of William III., declared to have struck thirteen instead of 
 twelve times at midnight, and thus cleared himself of the accusation by the relief- 
 guard of sleeping upon his post. The story is told of St. Paul's Bell ; but the 
 Cathedral had no heavy bell until the above grant by King William, who died in 1702 ; 
 the circumstance is thus recorded in the Public Advertiser, Friday, June 22, 1770 : 
 
 Mr. John Hatfield, who died last Monday at his house in Glasshouse Yard, Aldersgate, aged 102 
 
 twelve ; whereupon he received his Majesty's pardon 
 
 This striking thirteen, instead of twelve, is mechanically possible, and was caused by 
 the lifting-piece holding on too long. 
 
 The ancient Societies of Bell-ringers in London, called " College Youths," " Cumber- 
 land Youths," &c., it is very probable, are relics of the ancient Guilds ; for, as early as 
 the time of Edward the Confessor, there was in Westminster a guild of ringers. They 
 were re-organized by Henry III.; and by a patent roll in the 39th year of his reign, 
 the brethren of the Guild of Westminster, who were appointed to ring the great bells 
 there, were to receive annually out of the exchequer 100 shillings 50 at Easter and 50 
 at Michaelmas until was provided the like sum for them payable out of lands for the 
 said ringing. And "that the brethren and their successors for ever enjoy all the 
 privileges and free customs which they have enjoyed from the time of Edward the Con- 
 fessor, to the date of these presents." 
 
 In the library of All Souls', Oxon, is a manuscript of " The orders agreed upon by
 
 46 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the company exercising the arte of ringing, knowne and called by the name of the 
 Schollers of Cheapsyde, in London, begun 2nd February, 1603." This MS. contains 
 the names of all the members down to the year 1634. After this date, in 1637, the 
 Society of College Youths was established by Lord Brereton, Sir Cliff Clifton, and 
 several other gentlemen, for the practice of ringing. They used to ring at St. 
 Martin's Vintry, on College-hill, near Doctors' Commons, upon a peal of six bells. 
 This church was burnt in the Great Fire of London, and never rebuilt; but the 
 Society still retains the name derived from College-hill, and has in its possession a 
 massive silver bell, which formed the top of the staff which used to be carried by the 
 beadle of the Society when the members attended divine service at Bow Church, on 
 the anniversary of its foundation, and other occasions ; also an old book, in which the 
 names of its members are entered. This book was lost at the time of the Great Fire, 
 but was subsequently recovered. The names in it are sufficient to show that ringing 
 was considered an amusement worthy of nobles, divines, and scholars. Among the 
 notables who have been elected members are the Hon. Robert Cecil (Marquis of 
 Salisbury), Sir John Bolles and Sir Watkin W. Wynne, baronets ; Sirs Francis Withins, 
 Martin Lomly; Richard Everard, Henry Tulse, aldermen, Richard Atkins, Henry 
 Chauncey, Thomas Samnell, Gilbert Dolbin, William Culpeper ; John Tash, alderman ; 
 Henry Hicks, and Watkin Lewis, knights. 
 
 About 1700, another Society was formed, which was called " The London Scholars." 
 In 1746, the name was changed to the present title, " The Cumberland Youths," in 
 consequence of the great victory under the Duke of Cumberland, at the battle of 
 Culloden in that year. The London Scholars rang the bells of Shoreditch Church 
 as the victorious Duke passed by on his return from the battle ; for which a medal of 
 the Duke and his chargers was presented to the Society, and is still worn by the 
 master of the Society of Cumberland Youths, at their general meetings. The St. 
 James's Youths, another society, was established on St. James's-day, 25th July, 1824, 
 at St. James's Church, Clerkenwell. The grandsire ringing principally belongs to 
 this society, as it is the first rudiment of the half-pull ringing. About 1841, the 
 Society rang a peal of 12,000 changes of grandsire quatres at All Saints' Church, 
 Fulham ; also 7325 of graudsire cinques at St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, in 1837 ; and 
 many other peals besides, as recorded in London church-belfries. The head-quarters 
 of the society are at St. Clement Danes, Strand. The parochial ringing churches 
 are St. Andrew's, St. Sepulchre's, St. Dunstan's in the West, St. Clement's, West- 
 minster Abbey, St. John's, Waterloo-road j and St. Mary's, Lambeth : 
 
 There are certain Bells still remaining in London, notwithstanding the Great Fire, which have 
 historical notes. That, for instance, at the top of the Bell-tower which adjoins the Governor's lodgings 
 in the Tower, which was probably tolled at the execution of Lady Jane Grey, Anne Boleyn, and other 
 State prisoners, and probably sounded alarms of fire and other calamities in early days. This bell 
 seems to have been more particularly used by the Tower authorities than that in St. Peter's Church, 
 which stands near the spot where the scaffold was usually erected. The bells of St. Bartholomew's, 
 Smithfield, are old, and were probably rung when the Court has come to the tournaments and jousting 
 at Smithfield. With the exception of Westminster Abbey, St. Saviour's, All Hallows Barking, Cripple- 
 gate, and Old St. Pancras, there are few of the ancient bell-towers of the metropolis remaining. Several 
 of the bells, however, may have been saved from the ruins of the Great Fire. There is also the bell 
 of the Charter-house, which has tolled at the departure of a brother from soon after the death of Thomas 
 Sutton. Many will still remember that, while the fire of the second Royal Exchange was raging, the 
 self-acting bells played merrily the tune of " There is nae luck about the house," and eventually fell 
 with a crash amidst the blazing rums. Communications to the Builder. 
 
 The curious custom of a new rector tolling himself into his new benefice, is observed 
 in the City churches. Before the Reformation, no layman was allowed to be a 
 " ringer," and the ecclesiastics had to perform their office in surplice. The " tolling- 
 in" is as follows : " The rector is met at the door of the church by the trustees of the 
 church property belonging to the parish, and the churchwardens. Having obtained 
 possession of the keys of the church, the new rector unlocks the doors : then, having 
 closed them, he proceeds alone to the belfry, and for a few minutes tolls one of the 
 bells, thus complying with the custom imposed by the ordinances of the Church, by 
 announcing to the parishioners at large his acceptance of the rectorship, and his pos- 
 session of the church property. 
 
 Bow BELLS are of ancient celebrity ; and it was from the extreme fondness of the 
 citizens for them in old times that a genuine Cockney has been supposed to be born
 
 SELLS AND CHIMES. 47 
 
 within the sound of Bow Bells. According to Fynes Morison, the Londoners, and all 
 within the sound of Bow Bells, are, in reproach, called Cockneys, and eaters of " but- 
 tered toasts." Beaumont and Fletcher speak of " Bow Bell suckers," i.e., as Mr. 
 Dyce properly explains it, " children born within the sound of Bow Bells." 
 
 From a book of ordinances of the City of Worcester, Mr. Burtt quotes certain annual payments, 
 dating from very early times, for ringing " day-bell" and " bow-bell," the latter being doubtless the 
 same as the curfew, although now rung at eight instead of at nine, as at the time of the ordinances. 
 There is no local explanation of the term bow-bell, but Mr. Burtt considers Mr. Wolf's suggestion 
 feasible that as the curfew bell of London was rung at Bow Church, the name of that church was 
 adopted in other places, and applied to the bell. Proceedings of the British Archaeological Association, 
 April, 1866. 
 
 In 1469, by an Order of Common Council, Bow bell was to be rung nightly at 
 nine o'clock, and lights were to be exhibited in the steeple to direct the traveller. 
 When the church was rebuilt, the belfry was prepared for twelve bells, but only 
 eight were placed : these got out of order, and in 1758 the citizens petitioned the 
 vestry, that the tenor bell being the completest in Europe, and the other seven 
 very inferior, they requested to be allowed, at their own expense, to recast the 
 seven smaller bells, and to add two trebles. This was permitted, after Dance and 
 Chambers, the architects, had reported that " neither such additional weight, nor 
 any weight that can be put upon the steeple, will have any greater effect than 
 the bells now placed there." Accordingly, the set of ten bells was completed by 
 subscription, and was first rung June 4, 1762, the anniversary of the birth of King 
 George III. In the year 1822, some fear was expressed that the use of the bells 
 would endanger the steeple, when, by order of vestry, the bells were rung for trial; 
 and from a subsequent examination, there did not appear to be any cause for alarm. 
 The present set is much heavier, and much more powerful in tone, than the first peal 
 of bells : it requires two men to ring the largest (the tenor, 53 cwt., key C), in conse- 
 quence of its not having been properly hung. In 1837, the College Youths rang 
 a grand peal of Stedman quatres on Bow Bells ; also, in 1840, a peal of triple ten, 
 at the same church. Mr. W. H. Burwash, the sexton of St. James's, Clerkenwell, 
 rang the triple to both peals, and conducted them ; and Mr. A. C. Frost rang the 
 tenor to both : weight, 2 tons 13 cwt. 22 lb., stated to be the greatest bell rung by a 
 single man in England. 
 
 ST. BRIDE'S has a fine peal. A century ago, the College Youths, at their own 
 expense, placed the two small bells in St. Bride's tower, to make the present peal of 
 twelve bells ; and, about 1730, twelve members of the Society rang the first peal of 
 triple-bob maximus that was ever known to be rung on twelve bells. Rear-Admiral Sir 
 Francis Grey and Lord Chief- Justice Hale were members of this Society, and rang 
 in the peal. There is still a record of this feat in St. Bride's ringing-room. On 
 Monday evening, March 13, 1843, the Cumberland Society rang a complete peal of 
 cinques on Stedman's principle, consisting of 5146 changes, in four hours two 
 minutes, at St. Bride's ; it being the first peal in that scientific method ever performed 
 on the bells. 
 
 CHRISTCHTJRCH, Spitalfields', Bells are scarcely inferior to any in the kingdom ; the 
 tenor weighs 44 cwt., or 4928 Ibs. In the spring of 1836, by a fire which broke out 
 in the belfry, and reached the loft, the tenor fell upon the other bells, and the whole 
 were shivered to pieces, or fused by the heat of the conflagration; the clock and 
 chimes were also destroyed : they have all been replaced. 
 
 ST. LEONARD'S, Shoreditch. Here the London Society of Cumberland accomplished 
 their greatest achievement in olden times a peal of 12,000 changes of triple-bob 
 royals, which took nine hours and five minutes on 10 bells, March 27th, 1784, of which 
 there is a record in the tower, written on copper. The Society, in 1820, added two 
 new small bells to St. Leonard's, to make a peal of 12 bells, at their own cost 
 over 1001. ; but it is to be regretted that the great bell of the peal has been cracked. 
 
 ST. MARTIN'S-IN-THE-FIELDS. The peal of 12 bells has been put in good ringing 
 order, and all the bells made to strike true, to the satisfaction of the parqchial ringers 
 and the Cumberland Society, who regard the ringing as now more easy and more
 
 48 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 merry, as well as more musically true. The hammer of the church-clock, too, has 
 been altered so as to strike downwards instead of upwards, thus giving greater force 
 and clearness to the tone. The ringing-room itself has also been improved ; boxes 
 have been placed to the bells, and the place lit with gas, as well as the staircase and 
 bell-chamber. On Nov. 19, 1862, the Cumberland Society rang here a peal of 
 5050 changes of Stedman's quatres, in three hours and twenty-eight minutes, in 
 honour of the Prince of Wales attaining his majority. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL'S, Cornhill, had in Stow's time, six bells, the sixth being " rung by 
 one man by the space of 160 yeares" ; (?) Upon one St. James's night, 011 the 
 ringing of a peal, during a storm, the lightning entered at the north window, which so 
 terrified the ringers that "they lay down as dead." The present tower, rebuilt 
 1723, has a fine peal of 12 bells, with which, in March, 1866, twelve members of the 
 College Youths rang a fine and good peal of treble-bob maximus, consisting of 50S8 
 changes, occupying three hours and fifty-two minutes ; this being the first peal on 
 treble-bobs, on twelve bells ever rung, when the tenor man conducted the peal. 
 
 ST. SAVIOTJB'S, Southwark, has a beautiful tenor and 12 large bells ; a spacious ringing- 
 room with great marble tablet, put up at the expense of the various societies of ringers 
 in London : a record of a grand peal by the Cumberland Society cost 20 guineas. 
 The 12 bells of St. Saviour's, were not rung at the opening of New London Bridge, 
 in 1831, on account of the alleged insecurity it would occasion to the tower. The 
 tenor of this peal weighs 52^ cwt. ; that of Bow, 53 cwt. 
 
 ST. SEPULCHRE'S BELL has a melancholy history. In 1605, Mr. K. Dowe left 50Z. 
 to this parish, on condition that a person should go to Newgate in the still of the night 
 before every execution-day, and, standing as near as possible to the cells of the con- 
 demned, should, with a hand-bell (which he also left), give twelve solemn tolls, with 
 double strokes, and then deliver this impressive exhortation : 
 
 " All you that in the condemned hole do lie, 
 Prepare you, for to-morrow you shall die; 
 Watch, all, and pray, the hour is drawing near 
 That you before the Almighty must appear; 
 Examine well yourselves, in time repent, 
 That you 'may not t' eternal flames be sent. 
 And when St. Sepulchre's Bell to-morrow tolls, 
 The Lord have mercy on your souls ! 
 
 Past twelve o'clock !" 
 
 Dowe likewise ordered that the great bell of the church should toll on the morning ; 
 and that, as the criminals passed the wall to Tyburn, the bellman or sexton should 
 look over it and say, "All good people, pray heartily unto God for these poor sinners, 
 who are now going to their death ;" for which he who says it is to receive \l. 6s. 8d.; 
 let us hope that the gift ere long will be a free one. 
 
 ST. STEPHEN'S, Rochester-row, Westminster. Miss Burdetfc Coutts has given to 
 this church, built at her cost, a fine peal of eight bells, with a tenor of 1 ton 5 cwt. j 
 and to St. Ann's, Highgate-rise, a peal of eight bells. 
 
 CHIMES. The only church chimes now existing in the metropolis are those of St. 
 Clement Danes, in the Strand j St. Giles's, Cripplegate; St. Dionis, Fenchurch-street ; 
 and St. Bride's, Fleet-street. The Cripplegate chimes are the finest in London ; they 
 were constructed by a poor working man. Formerly, several churches in London, includ- 
 ing those of St. Margaret and St. Sepulchre, had chime-hammers annexed to their bells. 
 
 In each Royal Exchange, the business has been regulated by a bell : in Gresham's 
 original edifice was a tower " containing the bell, which twice a day summoned mer- 
 chants to the spot at twelve o'clock at noon, and at six o'clock in the evening." 
 (Burgon's Life and Times of Sir T. Gresham, ii. 345). 
 
 The Chimes at the Royal Exchange, destroyed by fire in 1S38, played, at intervals of 
 three hours, " God save the Queen," " Life let us cherish," " The Old 104th Psalm (on. 
 Sundays), and " There's nae luck about the house," which last air they played at 
 twelve o'clock on the night of the fire, just as the flames reached the chime-loft. 
 
 In the new Exchange, chimes have not been forgotten. The airs have been arranged
 
 BERMONDSEY. 49 
 
 by Mr. E. Taylor, the Gresham Professor of Music ; which Mr. Dent has applied on 
 the chime-barrel. The airs are : 
 
 1. A Psalm tnne, by Henry Lawes, the friend of Milton ; it is in the key of B flat, so as to exhibit 
 the capability of the chimes to play in different keys. 
 
 2. God save the Queen, in E flat. 3. Rule Britannia. 
 
 4. An air selected by Professor Taylor to exhibit the power of the bells. The key in which the bells 
 are set is E flat. There are fifteen bells, and two hammers to several, so as to play rapid passages. 
 There are frequently three hammers striking different bells simultaneously, and sometimes five. The 
 notes of the bells are as follows: B flat, A natural, A flat, G, F, E flat, D natural, D flat, C, B flat, A 
 natural, Aflat, G, F, and E flat. The first bell, B flat, weighs 4cwt.261bs., and its cord, 8 cwt. 2 qrs. 51bs.; 
 the four bells, A flat, G, F, and E flat; weigh severally, 10 cwt. Iqr. 91bs., 12 cwt. 2 qrs. 271bs., 
 15 cwt. 2 qrs. 141bs., and 23 cwt. 2 qrs. 24 Ibs. The united weight of them is 131 cwt. 1 qr. They were 
 cast by Messrs. Hears, of Whitechapel. 
 
 3ERMONDSEY 
 
 IS a large parish in Surrey, adjoining the borough of Southwark ; and named Beor- 
 mund's eye, or island, from its having been the property of some Saxon or Danish 
 Thane, and the land being insulated by watercourses connected with the Thames. In 
 1082, a wealthy citizen built here a convent, wherein some Cluniac Monks settled in 
 1089, to whom William Rufus gave the manor of Bermondsey ; and numerous dona- 
 tions and grants followed, until this became one of the most considerable alien priories 
 in England. From its vicinity to London, the monastery occasionally became the 
 residence of royal personages. Katherine of France, widow of Henry V., retired to 
 this sanctuary, and- died here, Jan. 3, 1437; and Elizabeth Widvile, relict of 
 Edward IV., was committed to the custody of the monks by her son-in-law, Henry VII., 
 and ended her days here, in penury and sorrow, in 1492. Among the persons of note 
 interred here is said to have been Margaret de la Pole, wife of Edmund de la Pole, 
 afterwards Earl of Suffolk, who was executed by Henry VIII., in 1513. The Abbey 
 occupied the ground between Grange-walk (where was a farm) and Long-walk, which 
 was a passage between the monastic buildings and the conventual church ; the latter a 
 little south of the present parish church of St. Mary Magdalene, originally founded by 
 the Priors of Bermondsey for their tenantry ; rebuilt in 1680, and since repaired. 
 Among the communion-plate is an ancient silver alms-dish, supposed to have belonged 
 to the abbey. 
 
 A drawing formerly in Mr. Upcott's collection shows the monastery as rebuilt early in 
 the reign of Edward III., and the cloisters and refectory in 1380. After the surrender of 
 the establishment to Henry VIII., he granted it to Sir Robert Southwell, Master of the 
 Rolls : it was by him sold to Sir Thomas Hope, who, in 1545, pulled down the ancient 
 Priory Church, and with the materials built Bermondsey House, where died Thomas 
 Ratcliffe, Earl of Sussex (Lord Chamberlain to Queen Elizabeth), in 1583. The east 
 gate of the monastery was taken down about 1760 ; the great gate-house was nearly 
 entire in 1806, shortly after which all the ancient buildings were removed, and Abbey- 
 street built on their site. Bermondsey-square now occupies the great close of the 
 Abbey, and Grange-road was its pasture-ground, extending to the farm ; the ancient 
 watercourse, Neckinger, was once navigable from the Thames to the Abbey. Adjoining 
 was an Almonry, or Hospital, for " indigent children and necessitous converts," erected 
 by Prior Richard in 1213, but not to be traced after the Reformation. 
 
 There is, in the Spa-road, St. James's Chapel, a Grecian edifice, opened in 1829 ; pr>. 
 the altar-piece is a large picture of " the Ascension," painted by John Wood, in 1844, 
 and the prize picture selected from among eighty competitors for 5001. bequeathed for 
 this purpose by Mr. Harcourt, a parishioner, and awarded by Eastlake and Haydon. 
 St. Paul's Gothic Church and Schools were opened in 1848 ; and Christ Church and 
 Schools, Neckinger-road (Romanesque), in 1849. 
 
 The Roman Catholic population of Bermondsey exceeds 5000 persons ; they have a 
 large church near Dockhead, opened in 1835. Precisely three centuries after the Dis- 
 solution of the Monasteries, was founded here, in 1838, a Convent for the " Sisters of 
 Mercy." The inmates are mostly ladies of fortune, and support a school for 200 chil- 
 dren. Sister Mary, the Lady Barbara Eyre, second daughter of the sixth Earl of 
 Newburgh, took the vows December 12, 1839 ; with Miss Ponsonby, Sister Vincent. 
 
 At Bermondsey, perhaps, is carried on a greater variety of trades and manufactures 
 
 E
 
 50 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 than in any other parish of the kingdom. It has been the seat of the Leather Market 
 for nearly two centuries ; its series of tidal streams from the Thames twice in twenty- 
 four hours supplying water for the tanners and leather-dressers. At the Neckinger 
 Mills here, nearly half a million of hides and skins are converted into leather yearly ; 
 and in the great Skin Market are sold the skins from nearly all the sheep slaughtered 
 in London.. Steam -machinery is much employed in the manufactories ; and in Long- 
 lane is an engine chimney-shaft 175 feet high. . Here is Christy's Hat Manufactory, 
 employing 500 persons, and considered the largest establishment of the kind in the 
 world. Here, too, abound paper and lead mills, chemical works, boat and ship 
 builders, mast and block makers, rope and sail makers, coopers, turpentine works, &c. 
 cJ ft The tidal ditches, with their filthy dwellings, produced cholera in 1832 and 1848-49 ; 
 in the latter year 189 deaths occurred in 1000 inhabitants. Here is Jacob's Island, 
 c so powerfully pictured in Dickens's novel of Oliver Twist. 
 
 Bermondsey Spa, a chalybeate spring, discovered about 1770, was opened in 1780, as 
 a minor Vauxhall, with fireworks, and a picture-model of the siege of Gibraltar, painted 
 by Keyse, and occupying about four acres. He died in 1800, and the garden was shut 
 up about 1805. There are to&ens of the place extant ; the Spa-road is named from it. 
 In the parish was born Mary Johns, the daughter of a cooper, in 1752, who wrote 
 the Lord's Prayer in the compass of a silver penny. 
 
 In the Registers, 1604, is the " forme of a solemne Vowe made betwixt a Man and 
 his Wife, having been longe absent, through which occasion the Woman beinge married 
 to another Man, took her again." 
 
 Viewed from the Greenwich Railway, which crosses its north-eastern side, Bcr- 
 
 ,, mondsey presents a curious picture of busy life, amid its streams and tan-pits, its narrow 
 
 \ streets, close rents and lanes, by no means tributary 'to the public health. Yet the 
 
 district has long been noted for longevity; and from 90 to 105 years are not uncommon 
 
 in the burial registers. 
 
 BETHNAL &REEN, 
 
 VILLAGE or large green, formerly a hamlet of Stepney, but made a parish (St. 
 Matthew) in 1743. The old English ballad of The Blind Beggar of Bednall 
 Green has given the district a long celebrity ; the story " decorates not only the sign- 
 posts of the publicans, but the staif of the parish beadle." (Lysons.) The incidents 
 }> \J7 have been poetically wrought into a drama by Sheridan Knowles. The mansion tradi- 
 tionally pointed to as " the Blind Beggar's House" was, however, built by John Thorpe, 
 in 1570, for a citizen of London, and called after him, " Kirby's Castle." Pepys describes 
 his visits to this house, then Sir W. Rider's, to dinner : his " fine merry walk with the 
 ladies alone after dinner, in the garden ; the greatest quantity of strawberries he ever 
 saw, and good." It was then said that only some of the outhouses, and not the man- 
 sion, were built by the Blind Beggar of Bethnal Green. 
 
 Robert Ainsworth, author of the Latin Dictionary which bears his name, kept an 
 academy at Bethnal Green. 
 
 Here was a large house said to have been a palace of Bishop Bonner's, and taken 
 down in 1849, in forming Victoria Park. Between 1839 and 1849, there were built 
 here ten district churches, principally through the exertions of Dr. Blomfield, Bishop 
 of London : the tenth of these churches (St. Thomas's) was erected at the sole cost of 
 a private individual. Silk-weavers live in great numbers at Bethnal Green. 
 
 Nichol-street, New Nichol-street, Half Nichol-street, Nichol-row, Turvil-street, comprising within the 
 same area numerous blind courts and alleys, form a densely-crowded district in Bethnal Green. Among 
 its inhabitants may be found street vendors of every kind of produce, travellers to fairs, tramps, 
 dog-fanciers, dog-stealers, men and women sharpers, shoplifters and pickpockets. It abounds with 
 the young Arabs of the streets, and its outward moral degradation is at once apparent to any one 
 who passes that way. Here the police are certain to be found, day and night, their presence being 
 required to quell riots and to preserve decency. Sunday is a day much devoted to pet pigeons and 
 to bird-singing clubs : prizes are given to such as excel in note, and a ready sale follows each 
 award. Time thus employed was formerly devoted to cock-fighting. In this locality, twenty-live 
 years ago, an employer of labour, Mr. Jonathan Duthoit, made an attempt to influence the people for 
 good by the hire of a room for meeting purposes. The first attendance consisted of one person. Per- 
 sistent efforts were, however, made ; other rooms have from time to time been taken and enlarged ; here 
 is a Hall for Christian instruction ; and another for Educational purposes ; Illustrated Lectures are 
 delivered ; a Loan Library has been established, also a Clothing Club and Penny Bank, and Training 
 Classes for industrial purposes. Aihenceum, 1862. 
 
 A
 
 BETHLEM HOSPITAL. 51 
 
 BETHLEM OB BETHLEHEM HOSPITAL. 
 
 rpHE history of the word Bedlam, by which this Hospital was called, within recollec- 
 -L tion, has been the subject of much curious inquiry. Our lexicographers commonly 
 refer its introduction into our language to the conversion of a religious house 
 of this name into a lunatic asylum, or about 320 years ago. The word Bedlem, 
 however, occurs in Tyndale's quarto testament, twenty or two-and-twenty years 
 before the above date; and Mr. Gairdner has proved it to have been so applied 
 still earlier : 
 
 It is quite true, says Mr. Gairdner, that the Hospital was granted to the City of London for the 
 purpose to which it is still applied, either by Henry the Eighth or Edward the Sixth ; but it is a mis- 
 take to suppose it had never been so used before. The royal grant changed the government of the 
 hospital, not its use. Monastic institutions, whatever evils they may have been answerable for, were 
 undoubtedly the medium of much practical good that we seldom give them credit for, and to mental 
 and bodily disease they offered such assistance as the skill and science of the age afforded. I have 
 myself met with a passage in the works of Tyndale's great opponent, Sir Thomas More, who died 
 even before (a martyr, too, though for a different cause), which proves beyond a doubt that Bethlehem 
 Hospital was a place for lunatics before the dissolution of the religious houses. " Think not," he 
 says, in his treatise De Quatuor Novissimis (page 73 of his English works), " Think not that every 
 thing is plesant that men for madnes laughe at. For thou shalt in Bedleem see one laugh at the 
 knocking of his own hed against a post, and yet there is little pleasure therein." 
 
 Bethlem Hospital originated in an establishment founded as a " Priory of Canons, 
 with brethren and sisters," in 1246, by Simon Fitz-Mary, a sheriff of London ; towards 
 which he gave all his lands in St. Botolph without Bishopsgate, being the spot after- 
 wards known as Old Bethlem, now Liverpool-street. This priory stood on the east 
 side of Moorfields, from which it was divided by a deep ditch. It is described as " an 
 Hospital " in 1330 ; in 1346 it was received under the protection of the City of London, 
 who purchased the patronage, lands, and tenements in 1546 ; and in the same year, 
 Henry VIII. gave the Hospital to the City, though not before he had endeavoured to 
 sell it to them : it was united to Bridewell Hospital in 1557. 
 
 Bethlem is, however, first mentioned as an hospital for lunatics in 1402. The 
 earliest establishment of the kind in the metropolis appears, from Stow, to have been 
 " by Charing Cross," though when founded is unknown ; " but it was said that some 
 time a king of England, not liking distraught and lunatic people to remain so near his 
 palace caused them to be removed farther off to Bethlem ;" to which Hospital the 
 site of the house in question belonged till 1830, when it was exchanged with the Crown 
 to make way for the improvements at Charing Cross. 
 
 The priory buildings becoming dilapidated, another Hospital was built in 1675-76, 
 on the south side of Moorfields, north of the London Wall, on ground leased to the 
 Governors by the Corporation for 999 years, at 1*. annual rent, if demanded. This, the 
 centre of Old Bethlem Hospital, cost 17,000/., raised by subscription: it was designed 
 by Robert Hooke ; but there is no foundation for the traditional story of its so closely 
 resembling the palace of the Tuileries, that Louis XIV., in retaliation, ordered a copy 
 of our King's palace at St. James's to be built for his offices. 
 
 This second Bethlem was 540 feet in length and 40 feet in breadth ; it was sur- 
 rounded by gardens, in one of which the convalescent lunatics were allowed to walk ; 
 the whole was enclosed by a high wall and gates ; the posterns of the latter were sur- 
 mounted with two finely-sculptured figures of Raving and Melancholy Madness, by 
 Caius Gabriel Gibber, the father of Colley. 
 
 In 1733, two wings were added for incurable patients. In 1754, the Hospital is 
 described as consisting chiefly of two galleries, one over the other, divided in the 
 middle by two iron gates, so that all the men were placed at one end of the house and 
 all the women at the other ; there was also " a bathing-place for the patients, so con- 
 trived as to be a hot or cold bath." The Hospital then held 150 patients. The 
 favourite resort of the poor inmates was the Fore-street end of the building, from the 
 windows of which we have seen them look out upon the unafBicted passengers in the 
 streets below. Here Nat Lee, the tragic poet, was confined four years; he did 
 not live long after his release. Here too was confined Oliver Cromwell's gigantic porter, 
 
 E 2
 
 52 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 who is traditionally said to have been the original of one of Gibber's figures. Hannah 
 Snell, the female soldier, who received a pension for wounds received at the siege of 
 Pondicherry, died a patient of Bethlem, in 1792. " Tom o' Bedlam" was the name 
 given to certain out-door patients, for whom room could not be found in the Hospital. 
 They wore upon their arms metal plates, licensing them to go a-begging, which many 
 cunning impostors adopted, until a caution from the Governor put a stop to the fraud. 
 In 1799, the Hospital was reported by a committee to be in a very bad condition : 
 it had been built in sixteen months, upon part of the City ditch filled in with rubbish, 
 so that it was requisite to shore-up and underpin the walls. At length it was resolved 
 to rebuild the Hospital ; and in 1810 its site, 2\ acres, was exchanged for about 11 
 acres in St. George's Fields, including the gardens of the infamous Dog and Duck. 
 The building fund was increased by grants of public money, and benefactions, from the 
 Corporation, City companies, and private individuals. The first stone of the new 
 edifice, for 200 patients, was laid in April 1812, and completed in August 1815, at a 
 cost of 122,572L 8s., the exact sum raised for the purpose. It was built from three 
 prize designs, superintended by the late Mr. Lewis : it consists of a centre and two 
 wings, the entrance being beneath a hexnstyle Ionic portico of six columns, with the 
 royal arms in the pediment, and underneath the motto : HEN. viir. EEGE PUN- 
 DATVJI CITIUM LAEGITAS PEEFECIT. Two wings, for which the Government 
 advanced 25,144Z., were appropriated to criminal lunatics. Other buildings have since 
 been added, for 166 patients, by Sydney Smirke, A.R.A., the first stone of which was 
 laid July 26, 1838, when a public breakfast was given at a cost of 464. 8*. to the 
 Hospital, and a narrative of the proceedings was printed at a charge to the charity of 
 140/. The entire building is three stories in height, and 897 feet in length. To the 
 YJ( centre was added a large and lofty dome in 1845 ; the diameter is 37 feet, and it is 
 about 150 feet in height from the ground. The Hospital and grounds extend to eight 
 acres ; the adjoining three acres being devoted to the House of Occupation, a branch 
 of Bridewell Hospital. 
 
 In the entrance-hall are placed Gibber's two statues, from the old Hospital : they 
 are of Portland stone, and were restored by the younger Bacon in 1814 ; they are 
 screened by curtains, which are only withdrawn upon public occasions : some of the 
 irons formerly used are also shown as curiosities. The basement and three floors are 
 divided into galleries. The improved management was introduced about 1816. The 
 patients employ themselves in knitting and tailoring, in laundry-work, at the needle, 
 and in embroidery ; the women have pianos and occasionally dance in the evening ; the 
 men have billiards and bagatelle tables, newspapers, and periodicals ; and they play in 
 the grounds at trap-ball, cricket, fives, leap-frog, &c. Others work at their trades, in 
 which, though dangerous weapons have been entrusted to them, no mischief has en- 
 sued, and the employment often induces speedy cure. The railed-in fire-places and 
 the bone knives are almost the only visible peculiarities; there are cells lined and 
 floored with cork and india-rubber for refractorylpatients. The building is fire-proof 
 throughout, and warmed by hot air and water. 
 
 From the first reception of lunatics into Bethlem, their condition and treatment 
 was wretched in the extreme. In a visitation of 1403 are mentioned iron chains with 
 locks and keys, and manacles and stocks. In 1598, the house was reported so loath- 
 some and so filthily kept, as not fit to, be entered; and the inmates were termed 
 prisoners. In a record of 1619 are expenses of straw and fetters. Up to the year 
 1770, the public, were admitted to see the lunatics at Id. each, by which the Hospital 
 derived a revenue of at least 400/. a year : hence Bethlem became one of " the sights 
 of London;" and such was the mischief occasioned by this brutal and degrading prac- 
 tice, that, to prevent disturbances, the porter was annually sworn a constable, and 
 attended with other servants to keep order. So late as 1814, the rooms resembled 
 dog-kennels ; the female patients chained by one arm or leg to the wall, were covered 
 by a blanket-gown only, the feet being naked ; and they lay upon straw. The male 
 patients were chained, handcuffed, or locked to the wall ; and chains were universally 
 substituted for the strait-waistcoat. One Norris, stated to be refractory, was chained 
 by a strong iron ring, riveted round his neck, his arms pinioned by an iron bar, and 
 his waist similarly secured, so that he could only advance twelve inches from the wall,
 
 BETHLEM HOSPITAL. 53 
 
 the length of his chain ; and thus he had been " encaged and chained more "than twelve 
 years ; " yet he read books of various kinds, the newspapers daily, and conversed ration- 
 ally : a drawing was made of Norris in his irons, and he was visited by several members 
 of Parliament, shortly after which he died, doubtless from the cruel treatment he had 
 received. This case led to a Parliamentary inquiry, in 1815, which brought about the 
 adoption of a new method of treatment in Bethlem ; although, in two years, 6607. were 
 expended from the Hospital funds in opposing the bill requisite for the beneficial 
 change. 
 
 The last female lunatic released from her fetters was a most violent patient, who 
 had been chained to her bed eight years, her irons riveted, she being so dangerous that 
 the matron feared being murdered if she released her ; in May 1838, she was still in 
 the New Hospital, and was the only patient permitted to sleep at night with her door 
 unlocked ; the slightest appearance of restraint exasperated her ; but on her release 
 she became tranquil, and happy in nursing two dolls given to her, which she imagined 
 to be her children. 
 
 The criminal lunatics were formerly maintained and clothed here at the expense of 
 Government, and cost nearly 4000Z. a year. Most of the criminals were confined 
 for murder, committed or attempted. Amongst them was Margaret Nicholson for 
 attempting to stab George III. ; she died here in 1828, having been confined forty- 
 two years. In 1841, died James Hadfield, who had been confined here since 1802, for 
 shooting at George III., at Drury Lane Theatre. He was a gallant dragoon, and his 
 face was seamed with scars got in battle before his crime : he employed himself with 
 writing verses on the death of his birds and cats, his only society in his long and weary- 
 ing imprisonment. Many, including Edward Oxford, who so nearly assassinated theQueen, ^ ' , 
 in 1840 ; Macnaughten, who murdered Sir Robert Peel's secretary, at Charing Cross ; fo 
 and the celebrated Captain Johnston, who under such terrible circumstances killed all b ' 
 the crew of his ship, the Tory ; were kept at Bethlehem, but have been removed to the 
 great Broadmoor Asylum, built by Government near the Wellington College Station f"1 
 of the South Eastern Railway. 
 
 Bethlem stands in eleven acres of ground, which is judiciously laid out. It was placed 
 under the jurisdiction of the Cominissioners in Lunacy in 1853. In 1841 only 23'60 
 per cent, of the patients attended chapel on Sunday, and there was a weekly average 
 of 2'64 per cent, under restraint ; in 1862, 55 per cent, attended chapel, and 
 restraint had been for several years unknown. Of the 115 curable patients in the 
 hospital in 1862 only eight were unemployed, and of the 61 incurables 24. The 
 annual cost of maintenance, furniture, and clothing was about 361. in 1862. The 
 following cases are inadmissible lunatics : those who have been insane for more than 
 twelve months ; who have been discharged uncured from other hospitals ; afflicted with 
 idiotcy, palsy, or epileptic or convulsive fits, or any dangerous disease. The patients 
 are not allowed to remain more than one year : preference is given to patients of the 
 educated classes, to secure accommodation for whom no one will be received who is 
 a proper object for admission into a county lunatic asylum. 
 
 Although Bethlem receives only those cases of madness which it deems most likely 
 to terminate in recovery ; of these simple and select cases nearly 40 per cent, (including 
 deaths) are eventually discharged from Bedlam unrelieved. " The annual rate of mor- 
 tality in Bethlem is 7 per cent. ; hi other asylums, from 13 to 22 per cent." (^Registrar- 
 General's Report, 1850.) 
 
 The income of Bethlem and Bridewell Hospitals amounts to about 33,OOOZ. per 
 annum, mostly the accumulation of private benevolence. 
 
 From November 22, 1841, Bethlem Hospital, with its purlieus and approaches, was 
 considered to be within the rules of the Queen's Bench, by an order of that Court, 
 until their abolition. 
 
 Patients are admitted by petition to the Governors from a near relation or friend ; 
 forms to be obtained at the Hospital. The visiting days are two Mondays in each 
 month ; for taking in and discharging patients, every Friday. 
 
 Strangers are admitted, on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, to view 
 the Hospital by Governors' orders ; and foreigners and Members of Parliament by 
 orders from the president, treasurer, or Secretary of State ; but the average yearly
 
 54 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. . 
 
 number of visitors does not exceed 550. Still, few sights can be more interesting than the 
 present condition of the interior of Bethlem. The scrupulous cleanliness of the house, the 
 decent attire of the patients, and the unexpectedly small number of those under restraint, 
 (sometimes not one person throughout the building), lead the visitors, not unnaturally, 
 to conclude that the management of lunatics has here attained perfection ; while the 
 quiet and decent demeanour of the inmates might almost make him doubt that he is 
 really in a madhouse. The arrangements, however, are comparatively, in some in- 
 stances, defective : the building being partly on the plan of the old Hospital in Moor- 
 fields, in long galleries, with a view to the coercive system there pursued, is, conse- 
 quently, ill adapted to the present improved treatment. 
 
 Above the door of the entrance-lodge are sculptured the arras of the Hospital, Argent, two bars sable, 
 a file of five points gules, on a chief azure an eloile of sixteen rays or, charged with a plate, thereon a 
 cross of the third, between a human skull placed on a cup, on the dexter side, and a banket of Wastell 
 bread, all of the fifth, on the sinister, 
 
 Bishop Tanner observes, however, that he was informed by John Anstis, Garter King of Arms, that 
 the ensigns were, Argent, two bars sable, a label of three points gules, on a chief azure a comet with 
 ten rays or, oppressed with a torteau charged with a plain cross of the field, between a chalice or, with 
 an hosty of the first, and a basket of the same. With respect to any signification to be assigned to 
 these bearings, there is, probably, no positive information extant ; but, supposing them to be really 
 ancient, it may be observed, that the bars and file in the principal part of the shield were, most likely, 
 the arms of Simon Fitz-Mary, the founder, which would account for their very prominent situation. 
 The (Stoile, or blazing star, on the blue chief, evidently refers to the star seen in the sky at the birth of 
 Christ, which led the wise men to Bethlehem, and, therefore, properly became its peculiar badge ; 
 whilst the cross in the centre indicates the crucifixion of the Saviour for all mankind. The basket of 
 bread has, probably, also an allusion to Bethlehem ; since the best translation of that word is con- 
 sidered to be " the house of bread," as implying a fertile soil in the production of barley and wheat, 
 noticed in the book of Ruth, chapter ii. ; but, as wastell cakes were, anciently, especially used in 
 Christian ceremonies and festivals, they might be designed as the English emblem of the birth-place of 
 the Lord. Perhaps, no satisfactory signification can be assigned to the present bearing of a cup con- 
 taining a skull ; but if the blazon of these arms, given by Anstis to Bishop Tanner, be accepted, the 
 chalice, surmounted by the consecrated wafer, will then be intended for the usual ecclesiastical figure 
 of the sacrament ; and, perhaps, also expresses that the Saviour, born at Bethlehem, the house of 
 bread, was " the living bread which came down from heaven." Upon the same principle of interpre- 
 tation, however, if the star be regarded as indicating Christ and his passion, the cup with the skull 
 might be meant to designate, the " death which he tasted for every man," in the cup of his own suffer- 
 ings at Gethsemane, and at Golgotha, " the place of a skull." Another armorial ensign, assigned to 
 the ancient hospital of Bethlehem, is, Azure, an ^toile of eight points or ; and the connexion between 
 this foundation and that of Bridewell, which is under the same governor, is indicated by the latter 
 bearing the star of Bethlehem, on a chief azure, between two fleurs-de-lis. Pamphlet by Peter Laurie, 
 -''/., LL.S. ; privately printed. 
 
 BILLINGSGATE 
 
 IS stated to take its name from having been the gate of Belin, a king of the Britons, 
 about 400 B.C. But this rests upon no better authority than Geoffrey of Mon- 
 mouth, and is doubted by Stow, who suggests that the gate was called from some 
 owner named Belin g or Billing: Stow describes it as "a large water-gate, port, or 
 harborough for ships and boats, commonly arriving there with fish, both fresh and 
 salt, shell-fishes, salt, oranges, onions, and other fruits and roots, wheat, rye, and grain 
 of divers sorts, for the service of the City. It has been a quay, if not a market, for 
 nearly nine centuries since the customs were paid here under Ethelred II., A.D. 979 ; 
 and fishing-boats paid toll here, according to the laws of Athelstan, who died 940 
 Its present appropriation dates from 1 699, when, by an Act of William III., it was 
 made " a free and open market for all sorts of fish ;" and was fixed at the western 
 extremity of the Custom House, a short distance below London Bridge. 
 
 The Market, for many years, consisted of a collection of wooden pent-houses, rude 
 sheds, and benches : it commenced at three o'clock A.M. in the summer and five in the 
 winter : in the latter season it was a strange scene, its large flaring oil-lamps showing 
 a crowd struggling amidst a Babel din of vulgar tongues, such as rendered "Billings- 
 gate " a byword for low abuse : " opprobrious, foul-mouth language is called Billings- 
 gate discourse." (Martin's Dictionary, 1754, second edit.) In Bailey's Dictionary 
 we have " a Billingsgate, a scolding, impudent slut." Tom Brown gives a very coarse 
 picture of her character; and Addison refers to " debates which frequently arise among 
 the ladies of the British fishery." She wore a strong stuff gown, tucked up, and show- 
 ing a large quilted petticoat; her hair, cap, and bonnet flattened into a mass by carry- 
 ing a basket upon her head; her coarse, cracked cry, and brawny limbs, and red, 
 bloated face, completing a portrait of the " fish-fag " of other days.
 
 T3LACKFRIAES. 55 
 
 Xot only has the virago disappeared, but the market-place has been rebuilt, and its 
 business regulated by the City authorities, with especial reference to the condition of 
 the fish ; and in 1849 was commenced the further extension of the market. There is 
 no crowding, elbowing, screaming, or fighting, as heretofore ; coffee has greatly super- 
 seded spirits ; and a more orderly scene of business can scarcely be imagined. The 
 market is daily, except Sundays, at five A.M., summer and winter, announced by ring- 
 ing a bell, the only relic of the olden rule. The fishing-vessels reach the quay during 
 the night, and are moored alongside a floating wharf, which rises and falls with the 
 tide. The oyster-boats are berthed by themselves, the name of the oyster cargo is 
 painted upon a board, where they are measured out to purchasers. The other fish are 
 carried ashore in baskets, and there sold, by Dutch auction, to fishmongers, whose 
 carts are waiting in the adjoining streets. The wholesale market is now over; the 
 lummarees supply the costermongers, &c. 
 
 All fish is sold by tale, except oysters and shell-fish, which are sold by measure, and 
 salmon by weight. In February and March, about thirty boxes of salmon, each one 
 cwt., arrive at Billingsgate per day ; the quantity gradually increases, until it amounts 
 in July and August, to 1000 boxes (during one season it reached to 2500 tons) the 
 fish being finest when it is lowest in price. Of lobsters, Mr. Yarrell states a twelve- 
 months' supply to be 1,90 1,000 ; of turbots, 87,958. The speculation in lobsters is 
 very great : in 1816, one Billingsgate salesman is known to have lost 12001. per 
 week, for six weeks, by lobsters ! Periwinkles are shipped from Glasgow, fifty or 
 sixty tons at a time, to Liverpool, and sent thence by railway to London, where better 
 profits are obtained, even after paying so much sea and land carriage. Sometimes 
 there is a marvellous glut of fish : thus, in two days from 90 to 100 tons of plaice, 
 soles, and sprats have been landed at Billingsgate, and sold at two and three Ibs. a 
 penny ; soles, 2d. ; large plaice, Id. each. 
 
 A full season and scarce supply, however, occasionally raise the price enormously ; as 
 in the case of four guineas being paid for a lobster for sauce, which, being the only 
 one in the market, was divided for two London epicures ! During very rough weather, 
 scarcely an oyster can be procured in the metropolis. In the Times, Nov. 9, 1859, we 
 read : " In consequence of the gales which have recently prevailed, the price of fish \ ^ 
 has risen so much, that cod-fish fetched the enormous sum of 11. 15s., yesterday morn- 
 ing in Billingsgate market." 
 
 Mackerel were, in 1698, first allowed to be cried through the streets on a Sunday ; 
 but, by the 9 and 10 Victoria, passed August 3, 1846, the sale of mackerel on a Sunday 
 was declared illegal. 
 
 The wholesale fish-trade of Billingsgate having greatly increased in 1854, Mr. 
 Bunning, the City architect, completed a sub-market on the site of Billingsgate Dock ; 
 the carriage of fish by railway to London having greatly superseded the use of sailing 
 vessels for that purpose. A new granite wharf-wall extends the entire river frontage 
 of the market ; and the foundations of the fish-market were constructed on 
 the blue clay beneath the bed of the river, without the aid of a coffer-dam. 
 
 Few persons are aware of the great consumption of fish in the metropolis. In the 
 Parliamentary Report on the Sea Fisheries, 1866, is a calculation showing that nearly 
 as much fish as beef is consumed in London. About 90,000 tons of fish are brought 
 yearly, of which some 80,000 tons are large fish, the remainder being whiting and 
 small fish. 
 
 SLACKFEIAES 
 
 IS the district between Ludgate Hill and the river Thames ; where anciently a 
 monastery of Black or Dominican Friars, removed from Holborn in 1276, to a 
 piece of ground given them by Gregory Rocksley, Mayor. The monastery, church, and 
 a mansion were erected with the stone from the tower of Montfichet, and from part of 
 the City wall. Edward I. and his Queen Eleanor were great benefactors to the new 
 convent. Here the King kept his charters and records; and great numbers of the 
 nobility dwelt in the precinct. In the church, divers parliaments and other great 
 meetings were held. In 1522 the Emperor Charles V. of Spain was lodged here by 
 Henry VIII. ; and here, 1524, was begun the sitting of a parliament, adjourned to the
 
 56 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Black Monks at Westminster, and therefore called the Black Parliament. Henry's 
 divorce from Katherine of Arragon was decided there ; and the parliament which con- 
 demned Wolsey, assembled at Blackfriars. The precinct was very extensive, was walled 
 in, had four gates, and contained many shops, the occupiers of which were allowed to 
 carry on their trades, although not free of the City, privileges maintained even after 
 the dissolution of the monasteries. Part of the church was altered and fitted up for 
 parochial use ; it was destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666, and the church of St. 
 Andrew by the Wardrobe erected in its place. Beneath the Times office, upon the 
 site of the King's Printing-house, is a fragment of the Roman wall, upon which is a 
 Norman or early English reparation ; and upon that are the remains of a passage and 
 window, which probably belonged to the Blackfriars monastery. 
 
 Taking advantage of the sanctuary privilege, Richard Burbage and his fellows, 
 when ejected from the City, built a playhouse in the Blackfriars precinct, and here 
 maintained their ground against the powerful opposition of the City and the Puritans. 
 Shakspeare had a share in this theatre. 
 
 In the volume of the Calendar of State Papers, edited by Mr. Bruce, F.S.A., we 
 get some interesting information of the Blackfriars theatre, part of the site of which 
 is still called Playhouse-yard, where was a piece of ground " to turne coaches in." 
 Under the date of Nov. 16, 1633, we find "Notes by Sec. Windebank, of business 
 transacted at the council this day. Blackfriars Playhouse. The players demand 
 21,00(M. The commissioners valued it at near 3000Z. The parishioners offer towards 
 the removing of them 100Z. An order of the board to remove the coaches from thence, 
 and to lay the coachmen of whomsoever by the heels. That no coaches stay between 
 Paul's Chain and the Fleet Conduit. The officers to be punished if they do not their 
 duties. The Lord Mayor to have his commandment directed to him, and every ward 
 to be answerable." 
 
 Hard by is another Shakspearean locality of note, the town property of the poet, 
 first pointed out by Mr. Halliwell viz., the site of the house purchased by Shak- 
 speare of Henry Walker, in March, 1612-13, the counterpart of the conveyance of 
 which is preserved in the Guildhall Library (bought in 1841, for 165Z. 15*.,) with 
 Shakspeare's signature attached, and which is there described as " abutting upon a 
 streete leading doune to Pudle Wharfe (Black friers), in the east part, right against the 
 Kinge's Majesties Wardrobe." The very house was, most probably, destroyed in the 
 Great Fire ; but the present one stands upon its exact site; and, until these few years, 
 it had been tenanted by the Robinson family, to whom Shakspeare leased it. The 
 house was bequeathed by the poet to his daughter, Susannah Hall. 
 
 Three eminent painters resided in Blackfriars : Isaac Oliver, the celebrated minia- 
 ture-painter, who died in 1617, and is buried in St. Anne's ; Cornelius Jansen, the 
 portrait-painter, employed by King James I., and who painted Milton at ten years 
 old. And here Vaudyck was lodged amongst the King's artists, in 1631, when he 
 arrived a second time in London ; thither His Majesty Charles I. frequently went 
 by water, and viewed his paintings. The painter kept here a splendid establishment 
 and a sumptuous table ; but his luxurious and sedentary life brought on gout ; he died 
 here in the Blackfriars, in 1641, and was buried in St. Paul's Cathedral, with great 
 funeral pomp. 
 
 In 1735, the right of the City to the jurisdiction of the precinct was decided in their 
 favour in an action against a shalloon and drugget seller, tried in the Court of King's 
 Bench ; since which Blackfriars has been one of the precincts of Farringdon Ward. 
 
 At Hunsdon House, in the Friary, occurred the catastrophe long remembered as 
 the " Fatal Vespers." It was on the anniversary of the Gunpowder Plot that some 
 300 persons had assembled in a small gallery over the gateway of the lodgings of the 
 French ambassador, to hear a sermon from the Jesuit, Father Drury, when the whole 
 congregation were precipitated, with the timber, plaster, and rubbish, into the vacant 
 apartments some 20 feet below. Drury was killed, and with him about 100 persons 
 of his congregation ; the bodies were buried, coffinless, in two large pits. 
 
 In a " Note of Liberties," in the State Paper Office, we find in a list of persons 
 " as well honourable as worshipful, inhabiting the Precincts of the Blacke and White
 
 BLACKWALL. 57 
 
 Friers," in the middle of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, or about the year 1581, the 
 following : 
 
 "The Earl of Lincoln, Lord Admirall of England; the Bishop of Wigorne; the Lord Cobham; the 
 Lord Chcynie ; the Lord Laware ; the Lord Kussell ; the Lord Clinton ; Sir Ambrose Jermyn ; Sir 
 Nicholas Poynes ; Sir Thomas Gerrarde ; Sir William Morgan ; the Lord Buckhurst ; the Lord Chief 
 Justice of England; the Lord Chief Justice of the Common Pleas; the Master of the Holies ; the 
 Queen e's Sollicitour; Mr. Thomas Faushawe; Peter Osborne; Mr. Powle, of the Chancery." 
 
 In Earl-street was the house of the British and Foreign Bible Society, upon the exact 
 site of the premises in which the Committee of six of the forty-seven " distinguished 
 scholars" ordered by James I. to furnish our present translation of the Bible used to 
 meet in the early part of the seventeenth century, to review the whole work ; and 
 which was finally revised there by Dr. Smith and Dr. Bilson, Bishop of Winchester, 
 then approved of by the King, and printed in the year 1611. When the Bible 
 Society purchased the above house of Mr. Enderby, there was in it a curious fourpost 
 bedstead, carved and painted, and the following inscription in capitals at the head : 
 " Henri, by the Grace of God, Kynge of Englonde and of Fraunce, Lorde of Irelonde, 
 Defendour of the Faythe, and Supreme Heade of the Churche of all Englonde. 
 An. Dmi. MCCCCCXXXIX." Below the inscription, on each side, is the King's 
 motto, with the initials of Henry and his Royal Consort, Anne Boleyn : " Dieu et 
 mon droit." " H. A." A new house for the Bible Society was founded in June, 1866. 
 
 In the operations necessary for carrying the London, Dover, and Chatham Railway 
 from the viaduct across the Thames at Blackfriars, great part of the east side of Bridge- i ^ 
 street was removed in 1863-4 ; the railway being carried on brick arches parallel * 
 with the street line; and a large passenger-station, 150 feet in width, was erected. 
 In the requisite clearances was removed the York Hotel, the house which Mylne, the 
 architect of Blackfriars Bridge, built for his private residence. On its southern face, 
 in Little Bridge-street, was a medallion, with the initials, " R. M.," surmounted by 
 his crest and the date MDCCLXXX. ; the walls of the principal rooms bore several 
 medallions of classic figures. Mylne also planned the noble approach to Blackfriars 
 Bridge, and superintended the covering of the Fleet ditch. He planned well his 
 houses in Blackfriars, although many of them were altered or rebuilt for insurance 
 offices. In the house No. 5, opposite the York Hotel, lived Sir Richard Phillips : 
 in the rear, Bride-court, he published his Monthly Magazine ; and here, as became / L 
 an author-publisher, he formed a considerable collection of pictures, mostly portraits of ' 
 eminent men of letters. 
 
 SLACKWALL, 
 
 ON the north bank of the Thames, and at the eastern extremity of the West India 
 Docks, is said to have been originally called Bleakwall, from its exposed situation 
 on the artificial bank or wall of the river, through the winding of which it is nearly 
 eight miles from the City, though less than half that distance by land. Here, on the 
 Brunswick Wharf or Pier, is the handsome Italianized terminus (by Tite) of the 
 Blackwall Railway from Fenchurch-street, 4| miles in length. 
 
 To the large taverns at Blackwall and Greenwich gourmets flock to eat whitebait, a 
 delicious little fish caught in the Reach, and directly netted out of the river into the 
 frying-pan. They appear about the end of March or early in April, and are taken 
 every flood-tide until September. Whitebait are caught by a net in a wooden frame, 
 the hose having a very small mesh. The boat is moored in the tideway, and the net 
 fixed to its side, when the tail of the hose, swimming loose, is from time to time handed 
 in to the boat, the end untied, and its contents shaken out. Whitebait were thought 
 to be the young of the shad, and were named from their being used as bait in fishing 
 for whitings. By aid of comparative anatomy, Mr. Yarrell, however, proved white- 
 bait to be a distinct species, Clupea alba. 
 
 Pennant describes whitebait as esteemed by the lower order of epicures. If this 
 account be correct, there must have been a strange change in the grade of the epicures 
 frequenting Greenwich and Blackwall since Pennant's days ; for at present the fashion 
 of eating whitebait is sanctioned by the highest authorities, from the Court of St. 
 James's in the West to the Lord Mayor and Ms court in the East ; besides the philo-
 
 58 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 sophers of the Royal Society j and her Majesty's Cabinet Ministers, who wind up the 
 Parliamentary session with their " annual fish dinner," the origin of which is stated to 
 be as follows : 
 
 On the banks of Dagcnham Lake or Beach, in Essex, many years since, there stood a cottage, 
 occupied by a princely merchant named Preston, a baronet of Scotland and Nova Scotia, and sometime 
 M.P. for Dover. He called it his " fishing cottage," and often in the spring he went thither, with a friend 
 or two, as a relief to the toils of parliamentary and mercantile duties. His most frequent guest was 
 the Right Hon. George Rose, Secretary of the Treasury, and an Elder Brother of the Trinity House. 
 Many a day did these two worthies enjoy at Dagenham Reach ; and Mr. Rose once intimated to Sir 
 Robert, that Mr. Pitt, of whose friendship they were both justly proud, would, no doubt, delight in 
 the comfort of such a retreat. A day was named, and the Premier was invited; and he was so well 
 pleased with his reception at the " fishing cottage" they were all two if not three bottle men that, on 
 taking leave, Mr. Pitt readily accepted an invitation for the following year. For a few years the Premier 
 continued a visitor, always accompanied by Mr. George Rose. But the distance was considerable ; the 
 going and coming were somewhat inconvenient for the First Minister of the Crown. Sir Robert Preston, 
 however, had his remedy, and he proposed that they should in future dine nearer London. Greenwich 
 was suggested : we do not hear of Whitebait in the Dagenham dinners ; and its introduction, probably, 
 dates from the removal to Greenwich. The party of three was now increased to four ; Mr. Pitt being 
 permitted to bring Lord Camden. Soon after a fifth guest was invited Mr. Charles Long, afterwards 
 Lord Farnborough. All were still the guests of Sir Robert Preston ; but, one by one, other notables 
 were invited all Tories and, at last, Lord Camden considerately remarked, that, as they were all 
 dining at a tavern, it was but fair that Sir Robert Preston should be relieved from the expense. It was 
 then arranged that the dinner should be given, as usual, by Sir Robert Preston, that is to say, at his 
 invitation ; and he insisted on still contributing a buck and champagne : the rest of the charges were 
 thenceforth defrayed by the several guests, and, on this plan, the meeting continued to take place 
 annually till the death of Mr. Pitt. 
 
 Sir Robert was requested, next year, to summon the several guests, the list of whom, by this time, 
 included most of the Cabinet Ministers. The time for meeting was usually after Trinity Monday, a 
 short period before the end of the Session. By degrees the meeting, which was originally purely gastro- 
 nomic, appears to have assumed, in consequence of the long reign of the Tories, a political, or semi- 
 political character. Sir Robert Preston died; but Mr. Long, now Lord Farnborough, undertook to 
 summon the several guests, the list of whom was furnished by Sir Robert Preston's private secretary. 
 Hitherto, the invitations had been sent privately : now they were despatched in Cabinet boxes, and the 
 party was, certainly for some time, limited to the members of the Cabinet. Communicated to the Times. 
 
 An important thing to be noticed is the vast extent of iron shipbuilding carried on 
 here, an art of construction but of thirty years' growth. A great portion of Black- 
 wall and the Isle of Dogs is occupied in this building trade, with its clanking boiler- 
 works, and its Cyclopean foundries and engineering shops, in which steani isiheprimum 
 mobile. 
 
 In the East India Docks, at Blackwall, arrived, April, 1848, a large Chinese Junk, 
 the first ever seen in England. 
 
 BLIND-SCHOOL (THE), 
 
 OR the School for the Indigent Blind, was established in 1799, at the Dog and Duck 
 premises, St. George's Fields ; and for some time received only fifteen blind 
 persons. The site being required by the City of London for the building of Bethlern 
 Hospital, about two acres of ground were allotted opposite the Obelisk, and there a 
 plain school-house for the blind was built. In 1826, the School was incorporated ; and 
 in the two following years three legacies of 500Z. each, and one of 10,000., were 
 bequeathed to the establishment. In 1834, additional ground was purchased, and the 
 school-house remodelled, so as to form a portion of a more extensive edifice in the 
 Tudor or domestic Gothic style, designed by John Newman, F.S.A. The tower and 
 gateway in the north front are very picturesque ; the School will now accommodate 
 220 inmates. The pupils are clothed, lodged, and boarded, and receive a religious 
 and industrial education ; so that many of them have been returned to then* families 
 able to earn from 6*. to 8s. per week. Applicants are not received under twelve, nor 
 above thirty, years of age ; nor if they have a greater degree of sight than will enable 
 them to distinguish light from darkness. The admission is by votes of the subscribers ; 
 and persons between the ages of twelve and eighteen have been found to receive the 
 greatest benefit from the instruction. 
 
 The pupils may be seen at work between ten and twelve A.M., and two and five P.M., 
 daily, except Saturdays and Sundays. The women and girls are employed in knitting 
 stockings and needlework ; in spinning, and making household and body linen, netting 
 silk, and in fine basket-making ; besides working baby-hoods, bags, purses, watch- 
 dockets, &c., of tasteful design, both in colour and form. The women are remarkably 
 iuick in superintending the pupils. The men and boys make wicker baskets, cradles,
 
 BREWERIES. 59 
 
 and hampers ; rope door-mats and worsted rugs ; and they make all the shoes for the 
 inmates of the School. Reading is mostly taught by Alston's raised or embossed letters, 
 in which have been printed the Old and New Testament, and the Liturgy. Both 
 males and females are remarkably cheerful in their employment : they have great taste 
 and aptness for music, and they are instructed in it, not as a mere amusement, but 
 with a view to engagements as organists and teachers of psalmody ; and once a year 
 they perform a concert of sacred music in the chapel or music-room : the public are 
 admitted by tickets, the proceeds from the sale being added to the funds of the 
 institution. An organ and pianoforte are provided for teaching; and above each of 
 the .inmates of the males' working-room usually hangs a fiddle. They receive, as pocket- 
 money, part of their earnings , and on leaving the school, a sum of money and a set of 
 tools, for their respective trades, are given to them. 
 
 . Among the other Charities for the Blind is the munificent bequest of Mr. Charles 
 Day (of the firm of Day and Martin, High Holborn), who died in 1836, leaving 
 100,OOOZ. for the benefit of persons afflicted, like himself, with loss of sight ; the divi- 
 dends and interest to be disbursed in sums, of not less than 10Z., or more than 201., 
 per year, to each blind person, the selection being left to Trustees : the Charity is 
 named " The Blind Man's Fund." 
 
 BREWERIES. 
 
 THE great Breweries of London are described by Stow, in 1598, as for the most 
 part remaining "near to the friendly water of Thames," which was long 
 thought to be superior to any other for brewing ; but Richardson, an experienced 
 authority, alleges this to be a mistake, as some of the principal brewers find the New 
 River water equally good ; they have also been at great expense in sinking wells upon 
 their own premises. In the Annual Register for 1760 the London beer trade is traced 
 from the Revolution down to the accession of George the Third. The great increase 
 in the trade appears to date from the origin of Porter. 
 
 " Prior to the year 1730, publicans were in the habit of selling ale, beer, and two-penny, and the 
 'thirsty souls' of that day were accustomed to combine either of these in a drink called half-and-half. 
 From this they proceeded to spin ' three threads,' as they called it, or to have their glasses filled from 
 each of the three taps. In the year 1730, however, a certain publican, named Horwood, to save himself 
 the trouble of making this triune mixture, brewed a liquor intended to imitate the taste of the ' three 
 threads,' and to this he applied the term ' entire.' This concoction was approved, and being puffed aa 
 good porter's drink, it speedily came to be called Porter itself." Quarterly Review, 1854. 
 
 By Act of Parliament, beer and porter can only be made of malt and hops, the great 
 council of the nation having omitted all mention of the water, which the brewers have 
 added as a necessary ingredient. It has been well said that all nations know that 
 London is the place where porter was invented ; and Jews, Turks, Germans, Negroes, 
 Persians, Chinese, New Zealanders, Esquimaux, Copper Indians, Yankees, and Spanish 
 Americans, are united in one feeling of respect for the native city of the most univer- 
 sally favourite liquor the world has ever known. 
 
 The increase of brewers has kept pace with London's increase in other respects. 
 AVhitbread's Brewery, in Chiswell-street, Finsbury, dates more than two centuries 
 back : we find it at the head of the list in 1787 ; and so it continued until 1806 in 
 the Picture of London, for which year Whitbread's is described as the largest 
 Brewery in the metropolis, the year's brewing of Porter being above 200,000 barrels. 
 
 " There is one stone cistern," says the account, " that contains 3600 barrels ; and there are 49 large 
 oak vats, some of which contain 3500 barrels ; one is 27 feet in height and 22 feet in diameter. There 
 are three boilers, each of which holds about 5000 barrels. One of Mr. Watt's steam-engines works the 
 machinery. It pumps the water, wort, and beer; (trinds the malt, stirs the mash-tubs, and raises the 
 casks out of the cellars. It is able to do the work of seventy horses, though it is of a small size, being 
 only a twenty-four inch cylinder, and does not make more noise than a spinning-wheel. Whether the 
 magnitude or ingenuity of contrivance is considered, this Brewery is one of the greatest curiosities that 
 is to be anywhere seen ; and little less than half a million sterling is employed in machinery, buildings, 
 ind materials." 
 
 To the Brewery of Barclay, Perkins and Co., in Park -street, Southwark, has, how- 
 ever, attached a greater celebrity, from its great extent. It may be inspected by a 
 letter of introduction to the proprietors; and a great number of the foreigners of 
 distinction who visit the metropolis avail themselves of such permission. The 
 Brewery and its appurtenances occupy about twelve acres of ground, immediately
 
 60 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 adjoining Bankside, and extending from the land-arches of Southwark Bridge nearly 
 half of the distance to those of London Bridge. Within the Brewery walls is said 
 to be included the site of the famous Globe Theatre, " which Shakspeare has bound so 
 closely up with his own history." In an account of the neighbourhood, dated 1795, it 
 is stated that " the passage which led to the Globe Tavern, of which the playhouse 
 formed a part, was, till within these few years, known by the name of Globe-alley, and 
 upon its site now stands a large storehouse for Porter." We are inclined to regard 
 this evidence merely as traditional. However, the last Globe Theatre was taken 
 down about the time of the Commonwealth ; and so late as 1720, Maid-lane (now called 
 New Park-street), of which Globe-alley was an offshoot, was a long, straggling place, 
 with ditches on each side, the passage to the houses being over little bridges with 
 little garden-plots before them (Si-Type's Stotv). 
 
 Early in the last century there was a Brewery here, comparatively very small ; it 
 then belonged to a Mr. Halsey, who, on retiring from it with a large fortune, sold it to 
 the elder Mr. Thrale ; he became Sheriif of Surrey and M.P. for Southwark, and died 
 in 1758. About this time the produce of the Brewery was 30,000 barrels a year. 
 Mr. Thrale's son succeeded him, and found the Brewery so profitable and secure an income, 
 that, although educated to other tastes and habits, he did not part with it ; yet the 
 Brewery, through Thrale's unfortunate speculation elsewhere, was at one time, accord- 
 ing to Mrs. Thrale, 130,0002. in debt, besides borrowed money ; but in nine years every 
 shilling was paid. Thrale was the warm friend of Dr. Johnson, who, from 1765 to the 
 brewer's death, lived partly in a house near the Brewery, and at his villa at Streatham. 
 Before the fire at the Brewery, in 1832, a room was pointed out, near the entrance gate- 
 way, which the Doctor used as a study. In 1781 Mr. Thrale died, and his executors, 
 of whom Johnson was one, sold the Brewery to David Barclay, junior, then the head 
 of the banking firm of Barclay and Co., for the sum of 135,00(M. " We are not here," 
 said Johnson, on the day of the sale, " to sell a parcel of boilers and vats, but the 
 potentiality of growing rich beyond the dreams of avarice." While on his tour to the 
 Hebrides, Johnson mentioned that Thrale paid 20,000 a year to the revenue, 
 and that he had four vats, each of which held 1600 barrels, above 1000 
 hogsheads. David Barclay placed in the brewing firm his nephew from America, 
 Robert Barclay, who became of Bury Hill; and Mr. Perkins, who had been 
 in Mr. Thrale's establishment hence the firm of " Barclay and Perkins." Robert 
 Barclay was succeeded by his son, Charles Barclay, who sat in Parliament for South- 
 wark ; and by his sons and grandsons. Forty years since, the Brewery was of great 
 extent ; in 1832 a great portion of the old premises was destroyed by fire, but was 
 rebuilt, mostly of iron, stone, and brick. The premises extend from New Park-street, 
 southward, through Park-street, both sides of which are the Brewery buildings, con- 
 nected by a light suspension bridge ; to the right is the vast brewhouse and principal 
 entrance. There are extensive ranges of malt-houses extending northward, with a 
 wharf to Bankside. From the roof of nearly the middle of the premises may be had a 
 bird's-eye view of the whole. 
 
 The water used for brewing is pumped up by a steam-engine through a large iron 
 main, which passes under the malt warehouses, and leads to the " liquor-backs," two 
 cast-iron cisterns, on columns, reaching an elevation of some 40 feet. By this means 
 the establishment may be supplied with water for brewing to the extent of a hundred 
 thousand gallons daily. There is on the premises an Artesian well 367 feet deep ; but 
 its water, on account of its low temperature, is principally used for cooling the beer in 
 hot weather. 
 
 The machinery is worked throughout the Brewery by steam. The furnace-shaft is 
 19 feet below the surface, and 110 feet above; and, by its great height, denotes the 
 situation of this gigantic establishment among the forest of Southwark chimneys. 
 
 The malt is deposited in enormous bins, each of the height or depth of an ordinary 
 three-storied house. The rats are kept in check by a standing army of cats, who are 
 regularly fed and maintained. 
 
 The malt is conveyed to be ground in tin buckets upon an endless leather band 
 (" Jacob's Ladder") ; and thus carried to the height of 60 or 70 feet, in the middle of 
 the Great Brewhouse, built entirely of iron and brick, and lighted by eight large and
 
 BREWERIES. 61 
 
 lofty windows. The Brewhouse is 225 feet long by 60 in width, and of prodigious 
 height, with an elaborate iron roof, the proportions reminding us of Westminster Hall. 
 Within this compass are complete sets of brewing apparatus, perfectly distinct in 
 themselves, but connected with the great supply of malt from above, of water from 
 below, and of motive force from the steam-engine behind, vast coolers, fermenting vats, 
 &c. Each of the copper boilers cost nearly 5000L, and consists of a furnace, a globular 
 copper holding 320 barrels, and a cylindrical cistern to contain 120 barrels, an arrange- 
 ment equally beautiful and useful from its compactness and the economy of heat. 
 There is no continuous floor ; but looking upwards, whenever the steamy vapour per- 
 mits, there may be seen at various heights, stages, platforms, and flights of stairs, all 
 subsidiary to the Cyclopean piles of brewing vessels. The coals, many tons per day, 
 are drawn up from below by tackle, and wheeled along a railway. 
 
 " The hot water is drawn from one of the copper boilers to the corresponding mash-vat helow ; and 
 machinery working from a centre on a cog-rail that extends over the circumference of the vat, stirs the 
 malt. The mash-vat has a false bottom, which in due time lets off the wort through small holes to an 
 under-pan, whence it is pumped back to the emptied copper, from whence it receives the hot water, and 
 there, mixed with hops, it is boiled, and again run off into a vast cistern, where passing through a 
 perforated bottom, it leaves the hops, and is pumped through the cooling tubes or refrigerators into the 
 open cooler, and thence to the fermenting cases ; whence, in a few days, it is drawn off into casks, again 
 fermented, and when clearer put into the large vat." 
 
 The surface of one of the fermenting cases nearly filled is a strange sight : the yeast 
 rises in rock-like masses, which yield to the least wind, and the gas hovers in pungent 
 mistiness over the ocean of beer. Tlie largest vat will contain about 3500 barrels of 
 porter, which, at the retail price, would yield QOQOl. The " Great Tun of Heidelberg" 
 would hold but half this quantity. 
 
 Nearly every portion of the heavy toil is accomplished by the steam-engine. The 
 malt is conveyed from one building to another, even across the street, by machinery, 
 and again to the crushing rollers and mash vat. The cold and hot water, the wort and 
 beer, are pumped in various directions, almost to the exclusion of human exertions. 
 With so much machinery and order, few men comparatively are required for the 
 enormous brewing of 3000 bushels of malt a day. The stables are a pattern of order. 
 The name of each horse is painted upon a board over the rack of each stall. The horses 
 are mostly from Flanders, are about 200 in number, and cost from 70. to 801. each. 
 
 Truman, Hanbury, Suxton, Sf Co.'s Brewery is situated in Brick -lane, Spitalfields, 
 and covers nearly six acres of ground. Here are two mash tuns, each to contain 800 
 barrels, the mashing being performed by a revolving spindle with huge arms, like a 
 chocolate-mill. The wort is then pumped into large coppers, of which there are five, 
 containing from 300 to 400 barrels each ; it is then boiled with the hops, of which often 
 two tons are used in a day. The boiling beer is now pumped up to the cooler on the 
 roof of the brewery, which presents a black sea of 32,000 square feet, partly open to 
 the air. There are sixteen large furnace-chimneys connected with this brewery, the 
 smoke of which is consumed by Juckes's apparatus. There is a vast cooperage for the 
 80,000 barrels ; a farrier's, millwright's, carpenter's and wheelwright's shop ; a painter's 
 shop for sign-boards ; all which surround the central gear or beer-barrel dep&t. The 
 malt bins are 20 feet across and 35 deep. The stables are of great extent, and there 
 are a score of farriers. The drayman is sui generis ; there are some 80 in number, 
 taller than the Guardsmen, and heavier by two stone. 
 
 Meux"s Brewery (now Reid Sf Co.'s), in Liquorpond-street, Gray's Inn-lane, was 
 described by Pennant, in 1795, as " of magnificence unspeakable." In this year Meux 
 built a vessel 60 feet in diameter, and 23 feet in height, which cost 50001. building, 
 and would contain from 10,000 to 12,000 barrels of beer, valued at 20,0001. Their 
 vats then held 100,000 barrels. Messrs. Meux removed from Liquorpond-street to 
 their great brewery at the end of Tottenham Court-road. The head of the firm, Sir 
 Henry Meux was created a baronet in 1831, when he had a fortune of 200,000^., which by 
 his income from the brewery, increased in after years to between 500,OOOZ. and 600,000^. 
 
 The handsomest edifice of this class in the metropolis is the Lion Brewery, built for 
 Coding, in 1836, in Belvedere-road, next Waterloo-bridge, and surmounted with a 
 colossal stone lion. The top of the building is a tank to contain 1000 ban-els of water, 
 pumped up from a well 230 feet deep, or from, the Thames ; this supplies the floor
 
 62 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 below, where the boiled liquor is cooled 200 barrels in less than an hour ; when cooled 
 it is received on the floor beneath into the fermenting tuns j next it descends to the floor 
 for fining ; and lastly, to the cellars or store-vats. The steam-engine passes the beer 
 under the Belvedere-road ; loads or unloads barges ; conveys malt by the Archimedes 
 Screw or Jacob's Ladder ; and pumps water and beer to every height and extreme 
 position, displaying the advantage of mechanic power, by its steady, quiet regularity. 
 
 The Metropolitan Breweries have their signs, which figure upon the harness of their 
 dray-horses ; thus, Barclay and Perkins, the Anchor ; Calvert's (now the City of 
 London), the Hour-glass ; Meux, Horseshoe, &c. 
 
 BRIDEWELL HOSPITAL. 
 
 TTPON one of the oldest historic sites in the City of London stood the ancient palace 
 U of Bridewell, which extended nearly from Fleet-street to the Thames at Black- 
 friars. It was founded upon the remains of a building supposed to be Roman, and 
 inhabited by the Kings of England previous to the Conquest. Here our Norman 
 Kings held their Courts. Henry I. gave stone towards rebuilding the palace ; and in 
 1847, in excavating the site of Cogers Hall, in Bride-lane, was discovered a vault, with 
 Norman pellet-moulding, and other remains of the same date. The palace was much 
 neglected until, upon the site of the old Tower of Mountfiquit, Henry VIII. built " a 
 stately and beautiful house thereupon, giving it to name Bridewell, of the parish and 
 well there." (Stow.) This house was erected for the reception of Charles V. of Spain, 
 though only his nobles were lodged here, " a gallery being made out of the house over 
 the water [the Fleet], and through the wall of the City into the Emperor's lodgings 
 in the Blackfriars." (Stow.) The whole third act of Shakspeare's Henry VIII. is 
 laid in " the palace at Bridewell," which is historically correct. Subsequently the 
 King, taking a dislike to the palace, let it fall to decay. The " wide, large, empty 
 house" was next presented to the City of London by King Edward VI., after a sermon 
 by Bishop Ridley, who begged it of the King as a workhouse for the poor and a house 
 of correction ; the gift was made for " sturdy rogues," and as " the fittest hospital for 
 those cripples whose legs are lame through their own laziness." It was endowed 
 with lands and furniture from the Savoy. All this history is, by a curious licence, 
 transferred to Milan, by Decker, in the second part of the old play of the Honest 
 Whore. The account is very exact, compared with Entick's History of London, iv. 
 284. (Nares's Glossary, new edit. 1859.) The gift was confirmed by charter only ten 
 days before the death of the King. Nearly two years elapsed before Queen Mary con- 
 firmed her brother's gift ; and in February, 1 555, the Mayor and Aldermen entered 
 Bridewell and took possession, with seven hundred marks laud, and all the bedding and 
 other furniture of the house of the Savoy. But the gift soon proved costly and in- 
 convenient to the citizens by attracting thither idle and abandoned people from the 
 outskirts of London, when the Common Council issued acts against " the resort of 
 masterless men." In 1608, the City erected here twelve large granaries for corn and 
 two storehouses for coals. In Aggas's plan of London, the buildings and gardens of the 
 hospital extend from the present site to the Thames, on the bank of which a large 
 castellated mansion is represented ; as also in Van der Wyngrerde's (1542) view, in the 
 Bodleian Library ; but in Hollar's view, after the Great Fire, most of the buildings are 
 consumed. 
 
 The Hospital was rebuilt as we see it in Kip's view, 1720, in two quadrangles, the 
 principal of which fronted the Fleet River, now a vast sewer under the middle of 
 Bridge-street. Within the present century were built the committee-room and 
 prisons ; the chapel was rebuilt and the whole latterly formed only one large quad- 
 rangle, with a handsome entrance from Bridge-street ; the keystone of the archway 
 is sculptured with the head of King Edward VI. Hatton thus minutely describes 
 the hospital in 1708: 
 
 It is a prison and house of correction for idle vagrants, loose and disorderly servants, night-walkers, 
 strumpets, &c. These are set to hard labour, and have correction according to their deserts; but 
 have their clothes and diet during their imprisonment at the charge of the house. 
 
 It is also an hospital for indigent persons, and where twenty art-masters (as they are called), being 
 decayed traders as shoemakers, taylors, flax-drapers, &c. have houses, and their servants or appren-
 
 BRIDEWELL HOSPITAL. 63 
 
 tices (being about 140 in all) have clothes at the house charge, and their masters having the profit of 
 their work, do often advance by this means their own fortunes. And these boys, having served their 
 time faithfully, have not only their freedom, but also 10 each towards carrying on their respective 
 trades, and many have even arrived from nothing to be governors. 
 
 The Bridewell boys were distinguished by a particular dress, and were very active 
 at fires with an engine belonging to the hospital. In 1755 they had, however, 
 grown unruly, and so turbulent in the streets as to be a great annoyance to peaceable 
 citizens. Their peculiar costume was then laid aside, and they became more peaceable. 
 The flogging at Bridewell for offences committed without the prison is described by 
 Ward in his London Spy ; both men and women were whipped on their naked backs, 
 before the Court of Governors. The president sat with his hammer in his hand, and 
 the culprit was taken from the post when the hammer fell. Hogarth, in his " Harlot's 
 Progress," gives the peculiar features of the place. In the Fourth Plate men and 
 women are beating hemp under the eye of a savage taskmaster ; and a lad, too idle to 
 work, is seen standing on tiptoe to reach the stocks, in which his hands are fixed, 
 while over his head is written, " Better to work than stand thus." * When Howard 
 visited Bridewell he found the building damp and unhealthy, and the rooms, cells, and 
 corridors confined and dark, and altogether a bad specimen of a prison. 
 
 " Lob's Pound " was a cant name for Bridewell, the origin of which so puzzled 
 Archdeacon Nares, that he said : " Who Lob was, is as little known as the site of 
 Lipsbury Pinfold." In Hudibras the term is employed as a name for the stocks into' 
 which the Knight put Crowdero : 
 
 Crowdero, whom, in irons bound, 
 Thou basely threw'st into Lob's Pound. 
 
 Miss Baker suggests, in her Northamptonshire Glossary, that the name originated 
 from " lob," a looby or clown, rather than any specific individual Bridewell being 
 the place of correction for the petty offences of that class. 
 
 Bridewell is named from the famous well in the vicinity of St. Bride's Church ; and 
 this prison being the first of its kind, all other houses of correction, upon the same 
 plan, were called Bridewells. In the Nomenclator, 1585, occurs " a workhouse where 
 servants be tied to their work at Bridewell ; a house of correction j a prison." We 
 read of a treadmill at work at Bridewell in 1570. 
 
 Bridewell was, until lately, used as a receptacle for vagrants committed by the 
 Lord Mayor and sitting Aldermen ; as a temporary lodging for persons previous to V j[ 
 their being sent home to their respective parishes; and a certain number of boy& Q 
 were brought up to different trades ; and it is still used for apprentices committed V 
 by the City Chamberlain. The male prisoners sentenced to and fit for hard labour 
 were employed on the treadwheel, by which corn was ground for the supply of 
 Bridewell, Bethlehem, and the House of Occupation ; the younger prisoners, or those 
 not sentenced to hard laboiir, were employed in picking junk and cleaning the 
 wards ; the females were employed in washing, mending, and getting up the linen 
 and bedding of the prisoners, or in picking junk and cleaning the prison. The 
 punishments for breaches of prison rules were diminution of food, solitary confine- 
 ment, and irons, as the case might be.l In 1842 were confined here 1324 persons, of 
 whom 233 were under seventeen, and 466 were known or reputed thieves. In 1818 
 no employment was furnished to the prisoners. The seventh Report of the Inspectors 
 of Prisons returned Bridewell as answering no one object of improvement except 
 that of safe custody ; it does not correct, deter, or reform ; and nothing could be 
 worse than the association to which all but the City apprentices were subjected. 
 However, in 1829, there was built, adjoining Bethlehem Hospital, in Lambeth, a 
 " House of Occupation," whither young prisoners were thenceforth sent from Bridewell 
 to be taught useful trades. 
 
 The prison of Bridewell was taken down in 1863 ; and the committals are now 
 made to the City Prison, at Holloway. Meanwhile a portion of Bridewell Hospital 
 will be reserved for the detention and reformation of incorrigible City apprentices 
 committed here by the Chamberlain from time to time ; this jurisdiction being pre- 
 served by the Court of Chancery in dealing with the matters which concern the 
 
 * This background is, however, incorrect ; since the harlot, being sentenced by a Westminster 
 magistrate, would not have been flogged in the City Bridewell.
 
 64 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 disposal of the building and the estates of the governors of the Hospital. Reforma- 
 tory schools are also to he built from the revenue of Bridewell, stated at 12,000. per 
 annum. At the Social Science Congress, in 1862, the worthy Chamberlain read a 
 paper on the peculiar jurisdiction of his Court. In the prison, special care was taken 
 to prevent the apprentices making the acquaintance of the low vagrants and misde- 
 meanants who ordinarily occupied the building. The apprentices were placed in small 
 cells, closed in with double doors, which shut out sound as effectually as sight ; 
 communication was, therefore, nearly impossible. Hereafter, only the apprentices will 
 be confined here. The number of committals rarely exceeds twenty-five annually. At 
 the date of our last visit there was but one apprentice confined here. Although the 
 number is so small, the power of committal, which the Chamberlain has most praise- 
 worthily asserted and successfully maintains, acts as a terror to evildoers, keeping 
 in restraint about 3000 of these lads of the City. 
 
 In a piece of ground, leased for the burial-place of Bridewell Precinct, Robert 
 Levett, the old and faithful friend of Dr. Johnson, and an inmate of his house, was 
 buried, in 1732. Not a vestige of the ancient Bridewell remains. The noblest 
 feature of the later buildings was the court-room 85 ft. 4 in. by 29 ft. 8 in., wains- 
 coted, and hung with the great picture of Edward VI. granting the Eoyal Charter of 
 Endowment to the Mayor. Beneath was a cartoon of " The Good Samaritan," by 
 the youthful artist Dadd. The other pictures are a fine full-length of Charles II., by 
 Sir Peter Lely ; and portraits of the Presidents, including Sir William Withers, 1708, 
 a very large equestrian portrait, with St. Paul's in the background. But the most 
 valuable embellishments were the tables of benefactions, ranging from 5001. to 50/., 
 " depensilled in gold characters." In this hall the governors dined annually, each 
 steward contributing 15. towards the expenses, the dinner being dressed in the spacious 
 kitchen beneath, only used for this purpose. This hall and kitchen were taken down 
 at the close of the year 3862 the official buildings facing Bridge-street remain. The 
 great picture of Edward VI. transferring Bridewell Palace to the City of London, 
 which was engraved by Vertue in 1750, and afterwards adopted into the series of 
 historical prints published by the Society of Antiquaries, was long accredited as painted 
 by Holbein, whereas, it represents an occurrence which took place in 1553, ten years 
 after Holbein's death. Consequently, it is simply impossible that he could have 
 painted it, notwithstanding that one of the figures in the background was asserted 
 by Vertue and by Walpole to be Holbein's own portrait, Upon this picture, Mr. J. 
 Gough Nichols, F.S.A., remarked, in 1859, that "it is not now regarded as Holbein's 
 work, as it bears no comparison with his capital picture at Barber-Surgeons' Hall of 
 King Henry VIII. granting his charter to that Company." " But," adds Mr. 
 Nichols, " after all, though not a masterly work of art, it is a valuable item among 
 a very few historical pictures, and it would be desirable to recover its real history, of 
 which we literally know nothing." ArcJiceologia xxxix. 21. 
 
 A very interesting historical fact in connexion with Bridewell remains to be noticed. 
 Mr. Lemon, of the State Paper Office, has discovered in that depository a manuscript 
 showing that in the old Bridewell were imprisoned the members of the Congregational 
 Church first formed after the accession of Elizabeth. On the evening of the 20th of 
 June, 1567, the gates of the old prison were opened to receive a company of Christian 
 men and women, who were committed to the custody of the gaoler for an indefinite 
 term, at the pleasure of the authorities, who consigned them to his care. The Lord 
 Mayor, in pity for their condition, urged them to make the required acknowledg- 
 ment ; but they conscientiously refused. Then were led to their cells, men unknown 
 to fame, but who discovered the long-neglected principles of Church Government in 
 the New Testament, which have wrought in silence much mighty and beneficial 
 changes. It is, no doubt, to this company that Bishop Grindal refers, in his letter 
 to Bullinger, July 11, 1568 : " Some London citizens," he says, " with four or five 
 ministers, have openly separated from us, and sometimes in private houses, sometimes 
 in fields, and, occasionally, even in ships, they have held meetings and administered 
 the Sacraments. Besides this, they have ordained ministers, elders, and deacons after 
 their own way. The number of the sect is about two hundred, but consisting of 
 more women than men. The Privy Council have lately committed the heads of 
 this faction to prison, and are now using means to put a timely stop to the sect."
 
 BRIDGES. 65 
 
 Dr. Waddington has also discovered some papers written by the members of this 
 Church in the Bridewell, signed chiefly by Christian women ; together with a docu- 
 ment containing a brief statement of their principles, by Richard Fitz, their pastor. 
 It appears from these records which have been kept for nearly three hundred years 
 that Richard Fitz, their minister ; Thomas Rowland, deacon ; Partridge, and Giles 
 Fowler ; died in prison. From the enlarged proportions the congregational denomina- 
 tion has since reached in Great Britain and America, considerable interest is attached 
 to Bridewell because of these associations. Dr. Waddington, following the current of 
 history from this hidden source, shows, by indisputable evidence from original papers 
 in the public archives, that the succession of Congregational Churches from this period 
 is continuous : the Bridewell may thus be regarded as the starting-point of Congrega- 
 tionalism after the Reformation.* 
 
 These touching and simple memorials have been preserved by the Metropolitan 
 Bishop, and finally transferred to the royal archives. The name of Fitz was known to 
 the Christian exiles in Holland associated with the Pilgrim Fathers. Henry Ains- 
 worth speaks of " that separated Church, whereof Mr. Fitz was pastor, in the begin- 
 ning of Queen Elizabeth's reign." It was reserved for us to identify him in his rela- 
 tion to the " Flock of Slaughter," suffering bonds and imprisonment in the Bridewell. 
 These original papers enable us with certainty to trace the origin of the first voluntary 
 Church in England after the Marian persecution, as contemporaneous with the Angli- 
 can movement. See Historical Papers : No. 1, Richard Fits. 
 
 BRIDGES. 
 
 SPHERE is no feature of the metropolis calculated to convey so enlarged an idea of 
 -*- the wealth, enterprise, and skill of its population, as the Eight Bridges, which 
 have been thrown across the Thames within the present century. Until the year 1750, 
 the long narrow defile of Old London Bridge formed the sole land communication 
 between the City and the suburbs on the Surrey bank of the Thames ; whereas now, 
 westward of the structure built to replace the ancient Bridge, are Southwark, 
 Blackfriars, Waterloo, Lambeth Suspension, Westminster, Vauxhall, and Chelsea 
 Bridges, besides the Railway Bridges to be described elsewhere. 
 
 LONDON BRIDGE, the first Bridge across the Thames at the metropolis, was of wood, 
 erected in the year 994, opposite the site of the present St. Botolph's Wharf: it is 
 mentioned in a statute of Ethelred II., fixing the tolls to be paid by boats bringing 
 fish to " Bylynsgate." 
 
 The first wooden bridge is stated to have been built by the pious Brothers of St. 
 Mary's monastery, on the Bankside ; which house was originally a convent of sisters, 
 founded and endowed with the profits of a ferry at this spot, by Mary, the only 
 daughter of the ferryman, who is traditionally said to be represented by an antique 
 monumental figure in St. Saviour's Church. This bridge is described with turrets 
 and roofed bulwarks in the narrative of the invasion of the fleet of Swe.yn, King 
 of Denmark, in 994 , and it was nearly destroyed by the Norwegian Prince Oluf 
 in 1008. It was rebuilt before the invasion of Canute in 1016, who is said to have 
 sunk a deep ditch on the south side, and dragged his ships to the west side of the 
 bridge. It was easily passed by Earl Godwin in 1052 ; but it was swept away by 
 flood in 1091 ; rebuilt in 1097 ; burnt in 1136 ; and a new bridge erected of elm-timber 
 in 1163, by Peter, chaplain of St. Mary Colechurch, Poultry. 
 
 The same pious architect began to build a stone bridge, a little to the west of the 
 wooden one, in 1176 ; when Henry II. gave towards the expenses the proceeds of a 
 tax on wool, which gave rise to the popular saying that " London Bridge was built upon 
 woolpacks." Peter of Colechurch died m 1205, having, it would appear, left the bridge 
 unfinished four years previously; since the Patent Roll of the third year of the reign 
 of King John informs us that the King was anxious to bring the Bridge to perfection, 
 and in 1201 took upon himself to recommend to the Mayor and citizens of London for 
 that purpose, Isenbert, Master of the Schools of Xainctes, who had already constructed 
 a bridge there, and at Rochelle. A translation of this Royal Writ is given in the 
 
 * Sec Walks and Talks about London, 1865, pp. 31-38.
 
 66 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Chronicles of Old London Bridge (pp. 70, 71). In it the King states that, by the 
 advice of Hubert, Archbishop of Canterbury, and others, he had entreated Isenbert to 
 undertake the building (or rather completion) of the bridge, and that he had granted the 
 profits of the edifices Isenbert was to build on the bridge to be for ever applied to its 
 repair and sustentation ; in another document mention is made of the houses built upon 
 the bridge, as well as to a plan of lighting the bridge by night, according to Isenbert's 
 plan. (See Mr. Hardy's Introduction to the Patent Eolls, and Mr. W. Sidney Gibson's 
 communication to Notes and Queries, 2nd s., ix., 119.) The bridge was, accordingly, 
 finished in 1209. It consisted of a stone platform, 926 feet long and 40 in width, 
 standing about 60 feet above the level of the water; and of a drawbridge and 19 
 broad-pointed arches, with massive piers. It had a gate-house at each end; and 
 towards the centre, on the east side, a Gothic chapel, dedicated to St. Thomas of 
 Canterbury ; in the crypt of which, within a pier of the bridge, was deposited, in a 
 stone tomb, the body of Peter of Colechurch. Up to the year 1250, a toll of twelve 
 pence, a considerable sum at that time, had been levied upon every ship passing under 
 London Bridge, i.e. through the drawbridge in the middle. The many edicts about 
 the nets used upon the Thames show how carefully the fisheries were watched, and 
 how productive they must have been. 
 
 Norden describes the bridge, in the reign of Elizabeth, as "adorned with sumptuous 
 buildings and statelie and beautiful houses on either syde," like one continuous 
 street, " except certain voyd places for the retyre of passengers from the danger of 
 cars, carts, and droves of cattle, usually passing that way," through which vacancies 
 only could the river be seen over the parapet-walls or palings. Some of the houses 
 had platform roofs, with pretty little gardens and arbours. Near the drawbridge, 
 and overhanging the river side, was the famed Nonsuch House, of the Elizabethan 
 age : it was constructed in Holland, entirely of timber, put together with wooden 
 pegs only, and was four stories high, richly carved and gilt. 
 
 There is a view of London Bridge by Norden, which is a pearl of great price among print collectors. 
 One impression, in the Sutherland Clarendon, in the Bodleian Library, is in the second state, and differs 
 materially from the view published by Norden, in the reign of Elizabeth, twenty-seven years earlier 
 than the Sutherland impression. Of the first named view, an early impression was discovered in 
 Germany in 1863, by Mr. J. Holbert Wilson ; the old houses upon the bridge are neatly engraved ; and 
 a cluster of traitors' heads is placed upon poles on the top of the bridge gate. The print in the second 
 state has lost five inches in depth, and the dedication states that Norden had described it in the reign of 
 Queen Elizabeth, but the plate had been "neare these twenty years, embezzed and detained by a person 
 till of late unknown ;" it was, therefore, not published until late in the reign of James I., then in a 
 mutilated state ; though the above is evidence of impressions of the first state. This is, therefore, the 
 oldest known view of London Bridge. 
 
 We may here mention another old view of London Bridge one of a series published by Boydell and 
 Co., in 1818, with a note stating it to have been copied from a print engraved in 1751, from a "very 
 antient picture; but the plate (which was a private one) was afterwards mislaid." This view is birds- 
 eye, reaching from the bridge to St. Katharine's ; in it appears St. Paul's, with the spire, which was 
 burnt in 1561. Beneath the view this is stated to be " the oldest view of London extant ;" but we have 
 Van den Wyngrerde's (1543) view, in the Sutherland Collection. In neither of these views, however, 
 is London Bridge so distinctly shown as in Norden's horizontal view : the detail of the houses on the 
 bridge is surprisingly minute. 
 
 The chronicles of this stone bridge through nearly six centuries and a quarter 
 form, perhaps, the most interesting episode in the history of London. The scenes 
 of fire and siege, insurrection and popular vengeance, of national rejoicing and of 
 the pageant victories of man and of death, of fame or funeral it were vain for us 
 to attempt to recite. In 1212, within four years after the bridge being finished, 
 there was a terrific conflagration at each end, when nearly 3000 persons perished; 
 in 1264, Henry III. was repulsed here by De Montfort, Earl of Leicester, and the 
 populace attacked the Queen in her barge as it was preparing to shoot the Bridge ; 
 in 1381, the rebel Wat Tyler entered the City by this road ; in 1392, Richard II. was 
 received here with great pomp by the citizens ; in 1415, it was the scene of a grand tri- 
 umph of Henry V., and in 1422 of his funeral procession ; in 1428, the Duke of Norfolk's 
 barge was lost by upsetting at the bridge, and his Grace narrowly escaped ; in 1450 
 
 " Jack Cade hath gotten London Bridge ; the citizens 
 Fly and forsake their houses :" 
 
 but the rebel was defeated, and his head placed upon the Gate-house : in 1477, Falcon- 
 bridge attacked the Bridge, and fired several houses ; in 1554, it was one of the daring 
 scenes of Sir Thomas Wyatt's rebellion; in 1632 more than one-third of the houses
 
 BRIDGE OLD LONDON. 67 
 
 were consumed in an accidental conflagration ; and in 16f>6 the labyrinth of dwellings 
 was swept away by the Great Fire : the whole street was rebuilt within twenty years ; 
 but, in 1757, the houses were entirely removed, and parapets and balustrades erected 
 on each side ; in this state the Bridge remained till its demolition in 1832. 
 
 In 1582, at the west side of the City end of the Bridge, Waterworks were 
 commenced by Morice, with water-wheels turned by the flood and ebb current of 
 the Thames passing through the purposely contracted arches, and working pumps 
 for the supply of water to the metropolis ; this being the earliest example of public 
 water service by pumps and mechanical powers which enabled water to be distributed 
 in pipes to dwelling-houses. Previously, water had only been supplied to public 
 cisterns, from whence it was conveyed at great expense and inconvenience in 
 buckets and carts. These Waterworks were not removed until 1822, when the pro- 
 prietors received for their interest 10,OOOZ. from the Xew River Company. 
 
 The Bridge shops had signs, and were " furnished with all manner of trades." 
 Holbein is said to have lived here ; as did also Herbert, the printseller, and editor 
 of Ames's Typographical Antiquities, at the time the houses were taken down. On 
 the first night Herbert spent here, a dreadful fire took place on the banks of the 
 Thames, which suggested to him the plan of a floating fire-engine, soon afcer 
 adopted. Tradesmen's Tokens furnish but few records of the Bridge shopkeepers. 
 " As fine as London Bridge " was formerly a proverb in the City ; and many a 
 serious, sensible tradesman used to believe that heap of enormities to be one of the 
 Seven Wonders of the World, and, next to Solomon's Temple, the finest thing that 
 ever art produced. Pin-makers, the first of whom was a negro, kept shops in con- 
 siderable numbers here, as attested by their printed shop-bills. 
 
 The Bridge was also the abode of many artists : here lived Peter Monamy, the 
 marine painter, who was taught drawing by a sign and house painter on London 
 Bridge. Dominic Serres once kept shop here ; and Hogarth lived here when he 
 engraved for old John Bowles, in Cornhill. Swift and Pope have left accounts of 
 their visits to Crispin Tucker, a waggish bookseller and author-of-all-work, who 
 lived under the southern gate. One Baldwin, haberdasher, born in the house 
 over the Chapel, at seventy-one could not sleep in the country for want of the noise 
 of the roaring and rushing tide beneath, which " he had been always used to hear." 
 
 A most terrific historic garniture of the Bridge was the setting up of heads on its 
 .gate-houses : among these ghastly spectacles were the head of Sir William Wallace, 
 1305 ; Simon Frisel, 1306 ; four traitor knights, 1397 ; Lord Bardolf, 1408 ; Boling- 
 broke, 1440 ; Jack Cade and his rebels, 1451 ; the Cornish traitors of 1497 ; and bf 
 Fisher, Bishop of Rochester, 1535, displaced in fourteen days by the head of Sir 
 Thomas More. In 1577, the several heads were removed from the north end of the 
 Drawbridge to the Southwark entrance, thence called Traitors' Gate. In 1578, the 
 head of a recusant priest was added to the sickening sight ; and in 1605, that of 
 Garnet the Jesuit, as well as those of the Romish priests executed under the statutes 
 of Elizabeth and James I. Hentzner counted above thirty heads on the Bridge 
 in 1598. The display was transferred to Temple Bar in the reign of Charles II. 
 
 The narrowness of the Bridge arches so contracted the channel of the river as to 
 cause a rapid ; and to pass through them was termed to " shoot the bridge," a peril 
 taken advantage of by suicides. Thus, in 1689, Sir William Temple's only son, lately 
 made Secretary at War, leaped into the river from a boat as it darted through an 
 arch : he had filled his pockets with stones, and was drowned, leaving in the boat this 
 note : " My folly in undertaking what I could not perform, whereby some misfortunes 
 have befallen the King's service, is the cause of my putting myself to this sudden 
 end ; I wish him success in all his undertakings, and a better servant." Pennant adds 
 to the anecdote that Sir William Temple's false and profane reflection on the occasion 
 wa?, that " a wise man might dispose of himself, and make his life as short as he 
 pleased !" In 1737, Eustace Budgell, a soi-disant cousin of Addison, and who wrote 
 in the Spectator &n<l Guardian, when broken down in character and reduced to poverty, 
 took a boat at Somerset Stairs ; and ordering the waterman to row down the river, 
 Budgell threw himself into the stream as they shot London Bridge. He, too, had 
 filled his pockets with stones, and rose no more : he left in his secretary a slip of paper, 
 
 F 2
 
 68 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 on which was written a broken distich : " What Cato did, and Addison approved, cannot 
 he wrong." This is a wicked sophism ; there being as little resemblance between the 
 cases of Budgell and Cato as there is reason for considering Addison's Cato written 
 in defence of suicide. 
 
 Of a healthier complexion is the anecdote of Edward Osborne, in 1536, leaping 
 into the Thames from the window of one of the Bridge houses, and saving his master's 
 infant daughter, dropped by a nurse-maid into the stream. The father, Sir William 
 Hewet, was Lord Mayor in 1559, and gave this daughter in marriage to Osborne, 
 whose great-grandson became the first Duke of Leeds. 
 
 In 1716, a very remarkable phenomenon occurred at London Bridge. The Thames, 
 from long continued drought, and the consequent stopping of the supplies by its 
 tributaries, was reduced to so low a pitch, that many persons walked over its bed from 
 Southwark to the city, and vice versa. During the twenty-four hours which this 
 extraordinary ebb assisted as it was by a gale of wind from W.S.W. lasted, many 
 interesting observations were made in respect to the foundation of the bridge, and a 
 variety of relics were found. To allow of extensive changes and repairs, a temporary 
 wooden bridge was built on the sterlings, or ancient coffer-dams, to protect the piers; 
 it was burnt April 10, 1758, but rebuilt in a month. The centre pier and two arches 
 adjoining were then taken down and replaced by one large arch, the bridge widened 
 several feet, and reopened hi 1759. These alterations are said to have cost 
 the large sum of 100,OOOZ. 
 
 The annual loss of life and property that occurred through the dangerous state of 
 the navigation \inder the arches (the fall being at times five feet), and the perpetually 
 recurring expense of keeping the Bridge in repair, suggested, about the beginning of 
 \n the present century, its demolition and rebuilding; but not until 1824 was the new 
 structure commenced, the first pile being driven March 15. It was designed by John 
 Rennie, F.R.S., and is about 100 feet westward of the old Bridge. In excavating the 
 foundations, were discovered brass and copper coins of Augustus, Vespasian, and later 
 Roman emperors; Venetian tokens, Nuremberg counters, and a few Tradesmen's 
 Tokens ; brass and silver rings and buckles, ancient iron keys and silver spoons, the 
 remains of an engraven and gilt dagger, an iron spear-head, a fine bronze lamp (head 
 of Bacchus), and a small silver figure of Harpocrates : the latter preserved in the 
 British Museum. We may here notice, that upon the old Bridge grew abundantly 
 Slsymbrium Iris, or London Rocket, with small yellow flowers and pointed leaves : this 
 plant probably appeared here soon after the Great Fire of 1666, when it sprung up* 
 thickly from among the City ruins. 
 
 Mr. Rennie died in 1821 ; but the works were continued by his sons, Mr. (now Sir 
 John) Rennie and Mr. George Rennie ; the builders being Mr. W. Jolliffe and Sir 
 Edward Banks. On June 15, 1825, the first stone was laid in a coffer-dam nearly 
 forty -five feet below high- water mark, opposite the southern arch (fourth lock), with 
 great ceremony, by the Lord Mayor (Garratt), in the presence of the Duke of York ; 
 and in the evening the Monument was illuminated with portable gas, to commemorate 
 the event. Two large gold medals were also struck on the occasion. The first arch 
 was keyed August 4, 1827 ; the last Nov. 19, 1828 ; and the Bridge was opened with 
 v ' great state, August 1, 1831, by King William IV. and Queen Adelaide, who went and 
 returned by water, and were present at the banquet given on the Bridge ; the Lord 
 Mayor (Key) presiding ; and the King and Queen partaking of the loving-cup. 
 
 New London Bridge is unrivalled in the world " in the perfection of proportion and 
 the true greatness of simplicity." 
 
 " It consists of five semi-elliptical arches, viz. two of 130 feet, two of 140 feet ; and the centre, 152 
 feet 6 inches span, and 37 feet 6 inches rise, is perhaps the largest elliptical arch ever attempted : the 
 roadway is 52 feet wide. This bridge deserves remark, on account of the difficult situation in which it 
 was built, being immediately above the old bridge, in a depth of from 25 to 30 feet at low water, on a 
 soft alluvial bottom, covered with large loose stones, scoured away by the force of the current from the 
 foundation of the old bridge, the whole of which had to be removed by dredging, before the coffer-dams 
 for the piers and abutments could be commenced, otherwise it would have been extremely difficult, if 
 not impracticable, to have made them water-tight; the difficulty was further increased by the old bridge 
 being left standing, to accommodate the traffic, whilst the new bridge was building ; and the re- 
 stricted water-way of the old bridge occasioned such an increased velocity of the current as materially 
 to retard the operations of the new bridge, and at times the tide threatened to carry away all before it. 
 The great magnitude and extreme flatness of the arches demanded unusual care in the selection of
 
 BRIDGE-LONDON. 69 
 
 the materials, which were of the finest blue and white granite from Scotland and Devonshire; great 
 accuracy in the workmanship was also indispensable. The piers and abutments stand upon platforms 
 of timber resting upon piles about 20 feet long. The masonry is from 8 feet to 10 feet below the bed 
 of the river. Sir John Rennie, F.B.S. 
 
 The time occupied in the erection of the Bridge, from driving the first pile, March 15, 
 1824, to its completion in July, 1831, was seven years five months and thirteen days, 
 during which it employed upwards of 800 men. Its building was attended with so 
 many local difficulties, that forty persons lost their lives in the progress of the works. 
 The total quantity of stone in the bridge is stated at 120,000 tons ; and the ends of 
 the parapets consist of the largest blocks of granite ever brought to this country. A 
 single cornice runs along the upper part of the bridge, supported on dentils formed 
 of solid beams of granite, marking externally the line of the roadway; this is sur- 
 mounted by a close parapet, four feet high, upon which are lofty and massive bronzed 
 standards, with gas lanterns. 
 
 The amount paid to Messrs. Jolliffe and Banks for this bridge was 425.081Z. 9s. 2d. ; 
 but the whole sum expended on it, including the approaches, was 1,458,311?. 8s. H-|cZ. 
 The latter are very fine, especially the roadway into the City, where, at the suggestion 
 of Mr. Alderman Gibbs, a granite statue of King William was set up, to commemorate 
 the opening ; and a bronze equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, in front of 
 the Royal Exchange, was erected as an acknowledgment by the citizens of his Grace's 
 exertions in facilitating the means of erecting the new bridge. 
 
 The old Bridge was not entirely removed until 1832, when the bones of the builder, 
 Peter of Colechurch, were found beneath the masonry of the chapel, as if to complete 
 the eventful history of the ancient structure. The superstructure was enormously 
 thick. The roadway was 85 feet above the crowns of the arches, and had apparently 
 risen by the accumulations of five different strata, one of which was composed of charred 
 wood, the debris of the houses that had been destroyed by fire. The foundations were 
 very defective. The masonry was but 2^ feet below low-water mark, and rested on 
 oak planking 16 inches wide by 9 inches thick, which in turn was supported by a mass 
 of Kentish rubble, mixed with chalk and flints, thrown in and held together by star- 
 lings. Parts of the piers had been faced at some early period, but very ill and care- 
 lessly, and no part of the original work rested on piles. 
 
 At the sale of the materials of this Bridge, Mr. Weiss, the cutler, of the Strand, 
 purchased all the iron, amounting to fifteen tons, with which the piles had been shod; 
 and such portions as had entered the ground produced steel infinitely superior to any 
 which Mr. Weiss had ever met with. Upon examination, it was inferred that the 
 extremities of the piles having been charred, the straps of iron closely wedged between 
 them and the stratum in which they were imbedded, must have been subjected to a 
 galvanic action, which, in the course of some six or seven hundred years, produced the 
 above effects. 
 
 The stone proved finely-seasoned material : a portion of it was purchased of 
 Alderman Humphery by Alderman Harmer, and used in building his seat, Ingress 
 Abbey, near Greenhithe; the balustrades, of good proportions, were preserved. 
 Many snufF-boxes and other memorials were turned from the pile-wood. 
 
 The traffic across the old Bridge, in one day of July, 1811, amounted to 89,640 
 persons on foot, 769 waggons, 2924 carts and drays, 1240 coaches, 485 gigs and taxed 
 carts, and 764 horses. The present Bridge is capable of accommodating four continuous 
 streams of vehicles, with the addition of wide pavements for foot-passengers. The 
 traffic over the Bridge during the 24 hours ending at 6 P.M. has comprised : Vehicles 
 cabs, 4483 ; omnibuses, 4286 ; waggons, carts, &c., 9245 ; other vehicles, 2430 ; 
 horses, led or ridden, 54 total, 20,498. Passengers : In vehicles, 60,836 ; on foot, 
 107,074 total, 167,910. [See Chronicles of London Bridge, by an Antiquary 
 (Richard Thomson), 1827 ; where the researches of a lifetime appear to be condensed 
 into a single volume.] 
 
 WESTMINSTER BEIDGE was opened in 1750, until when the only communication 
 between Lambeth and Westminster was by the ferry-boat near Lambeth Palace Gates, 
 the property of the Archbishop of Canterbury, granted by patent under a rent of 20d. 
 and for the loss of which ferry 2205?. were given to the see.
 
 70 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Attempts to obtain another bridge over the Thames, besides that of London, were 
 made in the several reigns of Elizabeth, James I., Charles I. and II., and George I.; 
 but it was not until the year 1736 (10 Geo. II.), that Parliament authorized the build- 
 ing of a second bridge. The architect was Charles Labelye, a native of Switzerland : 
 the first stone was laid by the Earl of Pembroke, Jan. 29, 1738-9; and the bridge was 
 opened Nov. 18, 1750. It consisted of fifteen semicircular arches, the centre seventy-six 
 feet span ; 1223 feet long by 44 feet wide. It was originally intended for a wooden 
 bridge, and was partly commenced on this principle. The bottom courses of the piers, 
 were laid, or built, in floating- vessels, or caissons, which when so loaded, were conducted 
 to their proper positions, and there sunk upon the natural alluvial bed of the river ; 
 the bottom of the caissons thus forming, when the sides had been removed, the plat- 
 forms or foundations of the masonry, unsustained by underpiling, or any other support 
 than that of the gravel or sand on which they rested. 
 
 In the Gentleman's Magazine for 1750, a view of Westminster Bridge as then finished is given, with 
 this memorandum : " This structure is certainly a very great ornament to our metropolis, and will be 
 looked on with pleasure or envy by all foreigners. The surprising echo in the arches, brings much 
 company with French horns to entertain themselves under it in summer ; and with the upper part, for 
 an agreeable airing, none of the public walks or gardens can stand in competition." For the protection 
 of passengers over it at night there was at this time a watch of twelve men ! 
 
 Labelye states the quantity of stone in this Bridge to be nearly double that employed 
 in building St. Paul's Cathedral. " The caissons contained upwards of 150 loads of 
 timber, and were of more tonnage than a forty-gun vessel." (Button's Tracts). The 
 original cost of the Bridge is given as 393,1892., of which 145,0572. went to contrac- 
 tors and 248,1322. to other parties. The approaches cost 109,0542. It is worthy of 
 note that long before Labelye's bridge was erected, the place of crossing was known as 
 Westminster Bridge. (See Dr. Wallis to S. Pepys, Oct. 24, 1699.) In the old maps 
 the landing-place on the north shore is so marked. 
 
 Vast sums were expended in the repair of this Bridge. Within forty years it cost 
 nearly half a million of money ; whereas the property of the Bridge only realized 
 74642. 11*. 8d. In 1838, Mr. W. Cubitt found the caissons in a perfect state, the 
 wood (fir) retaining its resinous smell. After the removal of London Bridge, as Tel- 
 ford foresaw, more than one of the Westminster piers gave way ; to stay their sinking, 
 in Aug. 1846 the thoroughfare was closed ; the balustrades and heavy stone alcoves 
 were removed, the stone-work stripped to the cornice, and the roadway lowered, thus 
 lightening it of 30,000 tons weight ; timber palings were put up at the sides, and the 
 Bridge was re-opened. The proportions of the sides are stated to have been so accurate, 
 that if a person spoke against the wall of any of the niches on one side of the way, he 
 might be distinctly heard upon the opposite side ; even a whisper was audible in the 
 stillness of the night. This was the last metropolitan bridge which had a balustrade 
 parapet, that of Blackfriars Bridge having been removed in 1839. 
 
 Westminster Bridge was built of magnesian limestone, containing from 24 to 42 per 
 cent, of carbonate of magnesia, from which Epsom salts are obtained by the application of 
 sulphuric acid. " If," said Dr. Ryan, in a lecture before 'the Royal Agricultural 
 Society, " Westminster Bridge, built of that rock, were covered with water and sul- 
 phuric acid, it would be converted into Epsom salts." 
 
 It was upon Westminster Bridge, September 3, 1803, that Wordsworth poured forth 
 this truly majestic sonnet : 
 
 Earth has not anything to show more fair: 
 
 Dull would he be of soul who could pass by 
 
 A sight so touching in its majesty : 
 
 This City now doth like a garment wear 
 
 The beauty of the morning ; silent, bare, 
 
 Ships, towers, domes, theatres, and temples, lie 
 
 Open unto the fields, and to the sky, 
 
 All bright and glittering in the smokeless air. 
 
 Never did sun more beautifully steep 
 
 In his first splendour valley, rock, or hill; 
 
 Ne'er saw I, never felt, a calm so deep ! 
 
 The river glideth at its own sweet will : 
 
 Dear God ! the very houses seem asleep, 
 
 And all that mighty heart is lying still ! 
 
 At length the construction of a new Bridge was commenced as near as possible to 
 the old one, the latter being used as a temporary bridge. The works were com-
 
 BRIDGE- WESTMINSTER. 
 
 71 
 
 menced by T. Page, C.E., somewhat lower down the river, in the middle of 1859. No 
 coffer-dams were usedj but on the site of each pier, elm piles were driven deep below 
 the bed of the river into the London clay. Round these again were forced massive 
 iron circular piles, grooved at the edges, so as to admit of great sheets of cast iron 
 being slid down like shutters between them; the space they shut in being care- 
 fully dredged out of mud to the bed of the river, the piles tied together with iron 
 rods, and the space filled in between with concrete up to low-water mark, when the 
 masonry enormous slabs of granite, weighing from eight to twelve tons was fixed 
 for the pier, and on these were raised the massive stone piers themselves. The arches 
 of the Bridge are seven in number, each formed of seven ribs, which are of cast-iron 
 nearly up to the crown, where, to avoid danger from the concussion of heavy loads, 
 they are of wrought metal. The arches vary in span, from the smallest, of 90 ft., to 
 the largest in the centre, of 120 ft., and from a height above high- water level of from 
 16 ft. to 20 ft. In the spandrels of the arches are Gothic quatrefoils, filled with shields 
 of the arms of Westminster and England. The materials used in the construction of 
 the whole bridge were 4200 tons of cast and 1400 tons of wrought-iron, 30,000 cubic 
 yards of concrete, 21,000 cubic yards of brickwork set in Portland cement, 165,000 
 cubic feet of granite, and 46,000 cubic feet of timber. Its gradient is 12 ft. lower than 
 the old Bridge, and its total width more than double, so that it is, size for size, the 
 cheapest Bridge over the Thames that has yet been built, costing per superficial foot 
 less than half the price of any similar structure in London. The length, breadth, and 
 cost of each of the metropolitan Bridges have been as follows : 
 
 Length. 
 Feet. 
 
 London 901 
 
 Southwark 800 
 
 Blackfriars 994 
 
 Waterloo 1380 
 
 Hungerford . ' 1536 
 
 Westminster, old . . . . . 1160 
 
 Westminster, new 990 
 
 Vauxhall 840 
 
 Chelsea 922 
 
 New Bridge at Blackfriars ... 930 
 
 Thus it will be seen that the new Bridge is very 
 
 Breadth. 
 Ft. in. 
 53 6 
 42 6 
 42 
 41 6 
 
 Cost per 
 
 Square ft. 
 
 11 6 
 
 11 5 10 
 
 3 15 6 
 10 
 
 4 16 
 7 16 
 4 
 9 16 
 
 2 5 
 
 3 5 
 
 nearly twice as wide as any of the 
 
 bridges over the Thames. Within the parapets it is 84 ft. 2 in. Of this the footways 
 occupy 28 ft., the road for the light traffic 39 ft., the tramways 14 ft. 8 in., and the 
 space between them 2 ft. 6 in. The tramways consist of iron-plates, bolted to timbers, 
 and laid upon an elastic bed of cork and bitumen. The kerb of the footway is formed 
 of Ross of Mull granite; the footway itself is of Blashfield's terra-cotta, in diamond- 
 shaped tiles, grooved transversely. The Bridge was completed in 1863, and opened 
 May 24, Her Majesty's birthday, at a quarter to 4 o'clock, the precise time when the 
 Queen was born ; and at that hour a salute of 25 guns was fired, a number correspond- 
 ing to the years of her reign. 
 
 " The unparalleled width produces a most striking effect as you pass on to the Bridge : if you approach 
 it from the Surrey side of the river, it is singularly imposing, as it stretches its wide way before yon, 
 spanning the broad unseen river, and backed by the magnificent mass of the Houses of Parliament, 
 never so well seen before, the visitor should see it for the first time thus it is a thing to remember. 
 From the river the Bridge is less impressive. Tt is not so majestic as London Bridge, nor so beautiful as 
 Waterloo. The arches seem to press upon the water." Companion to the Almanack, 1863. Still, with 
 certain artistic defects, this is a noble bridge. 
 
 The old Bridge was taken down in 1861 ; the last arch, April 25, and the foundations 
 three months later : altogether, including the arches, more than 2,100,000 cubic feet 
 of masonry and brickwork were taken out. 
 
 BLACKFEIAES BRIDGE originated with a committee appointed, in 1746, to examine 
 Labelye's designs for improving London Bridge ; though the architect of Blackfriars 
 Bridge was Robert Mylne, a native of Edinburgh. " The first pile of it was driven in 
 the middle of the Thames, June 7, 1760 ; and the foundation-stone was laid by Sir 
 Thomas Chitty, Lord Mayor, Oct. 31. On Nov. 19, 1768, it was made passable as a 
 bridle-way, exactly two years after its reception of foot-passengers; and it was finally 
 and generally opened on Sunday, Nov. 19, 1769. There was a toll of one halfpenny
 
 72 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 for every foot-passenger, and one penny on Sundays ; but on January 22, 1785, the 
 tolls were redeemed by Government. The toll-house was burnt down in the Riots of 
 1780, when all the account-books were destroyed." (Chronicles of London Bridge, 
 pp. 568, 569.) The total cost of building and completing the Bridge and avenues 
 thereto was 261,5792. 0*. Q\d.; including 21,250Z. 17s. 6d. paid to the Watermen's 
 Company for the Sunday ferry. 
 
 " Under the foundation-stone were placed several pieces of gold, silver, and copper coins of George 
 II., together with a silver medal given to Mr. Mylne, the architect, by the Academy of St. Luke, with a 
 copper rim round it, having the following inscriptions. On the one side, 'In architectura prsestantiae 
 pnemium (ipsa Roma judice), Roberto Mylne pontis hujus architectoni grato animo posuit.' " Upon 
 " a plate or plates of pure tin" was a Latin inscription, stating the Bridge to have been undertaken 
 by the Common Council of London (amidst the rage of an extensive war), and that there might re- 
 main to posterity a monument of this city's affection to the man, who, by the strength of his genius, 
 the steadiness of his mind, and a certain kind of happy contagion of his probity and spirit (under the 
 Divine favour and fortunate auspices of George II.) recovered, augmented, and secured the British 
 Empire in Asia, Africa, and America, and restored the ancient reputation and influence of this country 
 amongst the nations of Europe, the citizens of London unanimously voted this bridge to be inscribed 
 with the name of William Pitt. It was for a short time called " Pitt Bridge," which was soon 
 changed to Blackfriars Bridge; but the names of William and the Earl of Chatham still live in 
 William-street, Earl-street, and Chatham-place. 
 
 Mylne's success was owing, in a great measure, to the exertions of his friend, John 
 Paterson, City Solicitor; and they being of the Anti-Wilkes party, and of the same 
 country as Lord Bute, the unpopular First Minister of the Crown, Churchill, in his 
 poem founded on the Cock -lane Ghost story, has scathed both Mylne and Paterson. 
 
 The Bridge was built of Portland stone, and consisted of nine semi-elliptical arches, 
 then introduced about the first time in this country, in opposition to Gwyn, who, in 
 his design, proposed the semicircular arch. The columns were the most objectionable 
 feature in Mylne's '"".esign, architecturally ; for the line of the parapet being a curve, 
 the pillars were necessarily of different heights and diameters. Between 1833 and 
 1840, the Bridge was thoroughly repaired by Walker and Burgess, at an expense of 
 74.035Z., it is stated at a loss to the contractors. The foot and carriage ways were 
 lowered; the removal of the balustrades, and the substitution of a plain parapet, 
 altogether spoiled the architectural beauty of the structure. It is traditionally said 
 that our great landsape-painter, Richard Wilson, used to make frequent visits to Black- 
 friars Bridge, to study the magnificent view of St. Paul's Cathedral obtained from it. 
 
 At length, the Court of Common Council resolved to build a new Bridge upon the 
 site of the old Bridge, but much wider ; and the design of Joseph Cubitt was selected 
 to consist of five iron arches, surmounted by an ornamental cornice and parapet, and 
 the iron floor covered with a layer rf concrete, and paved with granite; each of the 
 four piers having a massive i -lumn o" red polished granite. A temporary wooden 
 bridge 900ft. in length, having three arches of 75ft. span for the river traffic ; the 
 carringe-wa y is 26ft. wide, arc! above it, at an elevation of 16ft., two footways, each 
 9ft. wide, were erected : the old bridge was then closed, and its demolition commenced 
 forthwith ; the rubble and masonry above the arch-turnings was nearly 20,000 tons 
 weight. The cost of this Bridge, four equestrian statues, and the temporary bridge, is 
 stated at 265,OOOZ., or 3Z. per foot super. At 150 feet eastward an iron lattice girder- 
 bridge h:;d been constructed for the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway. 
 
 VATJXHALL BRIDGE, communicating with Millbank, had, in consequence of disputes, 
 four engineers : Ralph Dodd, Sir Samuel Bentham, John Rennie, F.R.S. ; and lastly, 
 James Walker, who carried the design into effect at the expense of a public Company. 
 The Bridge is of cast-iron, but was originally intended to be of stone : hence the 
 narrowness of the nine arches, which would not have been necessary for an iron 
 structure. The first stone of the pier begun by Mr. Rennie was laid by Lord 
 Dundas, as proxy for the Prince Regent, May 9, 1811. The building was then sus- 
 pended, but transferred to Mr. James Walker ; the first stone of the resumed works 
 was laid by the late Duke of Brunswick, August 21, 1813 ; and on June 4, 1816, 
 the bridge was opened. 
 
 The width of the river is 900 feet at this Bridge, the length of which, clear of the 
 abutments, is 806 feet ; its 9 arches are each 78 feet span, and its 8 piers, each 13 
 feet wide ; height of centre arch, at high water, 27 feet. The bridge cost upwards of 
 300,0002. ; its half-year's clear revenue from tolls in 1849-50 was 2986J. 3*. 4d. The
 
 BEIDGES WATERLOO SOUTHWAKK. 73 
 
 low grounds west of the bridge, and formerly known as the Neathouse Gardens, were 
 elevated to a level with the Pimlico-road, by transporting hither the soil excavated 
 from St. Katherine's Docks ; and upon this artificiM foundation several streets were 
 built. The roadway on the south side crosses the site of the Cumberland Tea Gardens. 
 
 WATERLOO BRIDGE has been dignified by Canova as " the noblest bridge in the , v 
 world," and by Baron Dupin as " a colossal monument worthy of Sesostris and the * v 
 Caesars." It was partly projected by George Dodd, the engineer, and designed for 
 him by John Linnell Bond, architect, who died in 1837 ; but the bridge was eventually 
 built for a public Company by John Rennie, F.R.S. It "crosses the Thames from the 
 Strand, between Somerset Place and the site of the Savoy, to Lambeth, at the" centre . - 
 of the site of Cuper's Gardens, where the first stone was laid October 11, 1811. 
 
 This Bridge consists of nine semi-elliptical arches, each 120 feet' span and 35 feet 
 high, supported on piers 20 feet wide at the springing of the arches; with "useless 
 and inappropriate Grecian-Doric columns between the piers, surmounted by the anoma- 
 lous decoration of a balustrade upon a Doric entablature." (Elmes.) The width of 
 the Thames at this part is 1326 feet at high water ; the entire length of the bridge 
 is 2456 feet the bridge and abutments being 1380 feet, the approach from the Strand 
 310 feet, and the land-arch causeway on the Surrey side 766 feet. The roadway upon 
 the summit of the arches is carried upon brick arches to the level of the Strand ; and 
 by a gentle declivity upon a series of brick arches over the roadway upon the Surrey 
 bank of the river to the level of the roads near the Obelisk by the Surrey Theatre. 
 This district, until the building of the Bridge, was known as Lambeth Marsh, was 
 low-lying and swampy, with thinly scattered dwellings; but in a few years it became 
 covered with streets of houses. 
 
 The Bridge is built of granite, " in a style of solidity and magnificence hitherto 
 unknown. There elliptical arches, with inverted arches between them to counteract 
 the lateral pressure, were carried to a greater extent than in former bridges ; and 
 isolated coffer-dams upon a great scale in a tidal river, with steam-engines for pump- 
 ing out the water, were, it is believed, for the first time employed in this country ; the 
 level line of roadway, which adds so much to the beauty as well as the convenience of 
 the structure, was there adopted." (Sir John Rennie, F.S.S.) The Bridge was 
 opened by a procession of the Prince Regent and the Dukes of York and Wellington, \-^ 
 and a grand military cavalcade, on June 18, 1817, the second anniversary of the battle 
 of Waterloo, whence it is named. The Bridge itself cost about 400,000?., which, by 
 the expense of the approaches, was increased to above a million of money a larger 
 sum than the cost of building St. Paul's, the Monument, and seven of our finest metro- 
 politan churches. It has been a ruinous speculation to the Company, the tolls amount- 
 ing to little more than 20,000?. per annum. 
 
 Formerly, the average number of suicides annually committed from Waterloo 
 Bridge was 40 ; in September, 1841, there were nine attempts made, within a few 
 days, to commit suicide from Blackfriars Bridge. 
 
 SOUTHWAEK BRIDGE, designed by John Rennie, F.R.S., was built by a public 
 Company, and cost about 800.000/. It consists of three cast-iron arches : the centre 
 240 feet span, and the two side arches 210 feet each, about forty-two feet above the 
 highest spring-tides : the ribs forming, as it were, a series of hollow masses, or 
 voussoirs, similar to those of stone, a principle new hi the construction of cast-iron 
 bridges, and very successful. The whole of the segmental pieces and the braces are 
 kept in their places by dove-tailed sockets and long cast-iron wedges, so that bolts are 
 unnecessary ; although they were used during the construction of the bridge, to keep 
 the pieces in their places until the wedges had been driven. The spandrels are similarly 
 connected, and upon them rests the roadway of solid plates of cast iron, joined by iron 
 cement. The piers and abutments are of stone, founded upon timber platforms, resting 
 upon piles driven below the bed of the river. The masonry is tied throughout by 
 vertical and horizontal bond-stones, so that the whole acts as one mass in the best 
 position to resist the horizontal thrust. The first stone was laid by Admiral Lord 
 Keith, May 23, 1815, the Bill for erecting the Bridge having been passed May 6, 1811. 
 The iron-work, weight 5700 tons, had been so well put together by the Walkers, of
 
 74 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Rotherham, the founders, and the masonry by the contractors, Jolliffe Banks ; that 
 when the work was finished, scarcely any sinking was discernible in the arches. From 
 experiments made to ascertain tMI extent of the expansion and contraction between 
 the extreme range of winter and summer temperature, it was found that the arch rose 
 in the summer about 1 inch to 1^ inch. The works were commenced in 1813, and 
 the bridge was opened by lamp-light, March 24, 1819, as the clock of St. Paul's 
 Cathedral tolled midnight. Towards the middle of the western side of the 
 bridge is a descent from the pavement to a steamboat pier. The bridge was opened 
 free of toll, for six months, by the Lord Mayor (Lawrence), Nov. 8, 1864, with a view 
 to its purchase, ultimately, by the City of London. 
 
 " Within a fraction, London Bridge has as much traffic as allihe rest put together, the 
 proportions being London equal to all ; Westminster half of London ; Blackfriars 
 half of Westminster ; Waterloo one third of Blackfriars ; and Southwark one-fourth 
 of Waterloo." Bennoch on the Bridges of London, 1853. 
 
 HUNGEEFOED StTSPENSiON-BBiDGE,froin Hungerford Market to Belvedere Road, Lam- 
 beth, was constructed by I. K. Brunei, F.R.S., and was a fine specimen of mechanical skill. 
 It consisted of two lofty brick piers, or towers, in the Italian style, designed by Bun- 
 ning, 58 feet above the road, and built in brickwork and cement on the natural bed of 
 the river, without piles. In the upper part of these towers, four chains passed over 
 rollers, so as to equalize the strain : they carried the platform or roadway, in two 
 lines, with single suspension rods, 12 feet apart ; the chains being secured in tnnnels at 
 the abutments to iron girders, embedded in brickwork and cement, and strengthened 
 with concrete. There were three spans, the central one between the piers being 
 676J feet, or 110 feet wider than the Menai Bridge ; and second only to the span of 
 the wire suspension-bridge atFribourg, which is nearly 900 feet. The length between 
 the abutments of the Hungerford Bridge was 1352^ feet. The roadway was in the 
 centre 32 feet above high-water mark, or 7 feet higher than the crown of the centre 
 arch of Waterloo Bridge. The height above the piers was 28^ feet. Thus was 
 gained additional height for the river traffic, and a graceful curve, with the appearance 
 of swagging prevented. The Bridge was commenced in 1841, and was built without 
 any scaffolding but a few ropes, consequently, without impediment to the navigation of 
 the river. The iron-work, between 10,000 and 11,000 tons, was by Sandys and Co., 
 Cornwall. The entire cost of the Bridge was 110,000?., raised by a public Company. 
 The toll was a halfpenny each person each way. The Bridge was opened May 1, 
 c* O 1845, when, between noon and midnight, 36,254 persons passed over. Hungerford 
 was then the great focus of the Thames steam -navigation, the embarkations and 
 landings here exceeding 2,000,000 per annum. The Bridge was taken down in 1863, 
 \^ and the chains were carried to Clifton, for the Suspension-Bridge erecting there. 
 Upon its site has been constructed the Bridge for the Charing Cross Extension of the 
 South Eastern Railway : it has on each side a foot-path and ornamental balustrade ; 
 and in the centre four lines of rails, expanding fanwise into seven lines on approaching 
 the Charing Cross terminus. The Bridge for carrying the Railway across the Thames 
 to the City terminus, in Upper Thames-street, is similar to the Charing Cross Bridge, 
 but 12 feet wider. 
 
 HAMMEESMITH SUSPENSION-BBIDGE is one of the most elegant structures of its 
 kind ; and, unlike other suspension-bridges, has part of the roadway supported on, and 
 not hanging from, the main chains. The weight of the masonry abutments on each 
 bank is 2160 tons, to resist the pull of the chains. Cost, 80,OOOJ. ; engineer, W. 
 Tierney Clarke; first stone laid by the Duke of Sussex, May 7, 1826 ; finished 1827. 
 
 CHELSEA SUSPENSION-BRIDGE, opened in 1858, forms a communication between 
 Pimlico, Belgravia, and Chelsea, on one side of the Thames, and Battersea Park, and 
 the neighbourhood, on the other (the Middlesex roadway crossing the site of Rane- 
 lagh), and was built with funds granted by Parliament in 1846 ; Geo. Gordon Page, 
 engineer. The length of the Bridge is 704 feet : it consists of a centre opening of 
 333 feet, with two bide openings 166 feet 6 inches each. The piers terminate in
 
 BUCKLERSBURY BUNHILL-FIELDS. 75 
 
 curved cutwaters: the width of the Bridge is 47 feet; the roadway at the centre of the 
 Bridge is 24 feet 6 inches above high-water, and has a curve of 18 inches rise, com- 
 mencing at the abutments. The towers and ornamental portions are of cast-iron. 
 The girders and flooring of the platform are of wrought iron : ironwork by Howard, 
 Ravenhill, & Co. The piers are built upon caissons, below which the ironwork spreads 
 out at the bottom on bed-plates that rest upon York stone landings, laid on piles, and 
 concrete supports ; externally, the piers are cased with ornamental ironwork. The 
 abutments and piers rest upon piles driven 20 feet beyond low- water mark. On each side 
 of the carriage way is a tram for heavy traffic. A very large amount of additional 
 strength is obtained over the ordinary suspension construction by two longitudinal 
 lattice girders, of wrought iron, which separate the roadway from the footpaths. At 
 each end of the bridge are rectangular lodges, with terra-cotta terminations. The 
 four iron towers that rise from the caissons and piers have their upper portions of 
 moulded copper, gilded and painted to resemble bronze, and crowned with globular 
 lamps. The towers bear the royal arms and V. A. Yet, this public way across the 
 Thames although built ostensibly with the public money to afford the inhabitants of 
 Middlesex access to Battersea/ree park had a horse, carriage, and foot toll, an anomaly 
 which was loudly reprehended. 
 
 At a short distance eastward is the Bridge for the Victoria Station and Phnlico 
 Eailway; the ironwork by Bray and Waddington, of Leeds; Fowler, engineer; 
 opened in 1860. The stone piers, and the framework of the spandrels of the four flat 
 and segmental iron arches, each 175 feet span, and the iron cornice, render this one of 
 the handsomest railway bridges over the Thames. 
 
 LAMBETH SUSPENSION BKIDGE, connects Horseferry-road, Westminster, with 
 Church-street, Lambeth, P. W. Barlow, engineer; and though constructed for both 
 carriage and foot traffic, it cost, including the approaches, only 40,OOOZ. Its entire 
 length is 1040 feet ; it has three spans of 280 feet each, of wire cable, bearing wrought- 
 iron platforms, suspended from piers, each of two iron cylinders, 12 feet in diameter, 
 sunk into the London clay, 18 feet below the bed of the river, filled with concrete and 
 brickwork ; the novelty consists in placing under the bridge, on each side, a longi- 
 tudinal tubular iron girder, a cross girder between, so as to reduce to the minimum the 
 upward, downward, and lateral movement. 
 
 BUCKLERSBTJRY, 
 
 A SHORT street at the point where the Poultry meets Cheapside : here formerly 
 -*- stood the great Conduit which brought water from Conduit Mead, near Oxford- 
 road and Paddington. Stow writes : " Bucklersbury, so called of a manor and tene- 
 ments pertaining to one Buckle, who dwelt there, and kept his courts." The manor- 
 house, in Stow's time, bore the sign of the Old Barge, from its being said, that when 
 Walbrook lay open, barges were rowed or towed out of the Thames up here : hence 
 the present Barge Yard. Bucklersbury was a noted place for grocers and apothecaries, 
 drugsters and furriers. In Shakspeare's days it was, probably, a herb-market ; for he 
 has the comparison of smelling " like Buckler's-bury in simple-time." (Merry Wives 
 of Windsor, Act iii. sc. 3.) 
 
 UNHILL-FIELDS, 
 
 K'EAR Finsbury-square, one of the three great fields of the manor of Finsbury, 
 named Bonhill Field, Mallow Field, and the " High Field, or Meadow Ground, 
 where the three windmills stand ;" Bonhill was erected in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, 
 on a deposit made of " more than 1000 cartloads" of bones removed from the charnel 
 of old St. Paul's, which, it is believed, gave rise to the name Bonehill or Bunhill Fields. 
 In 1553, a lease was granted to the Corporation of this with other land, being the 
 property of the Prebendal Stall of Finsbury, in St. Paul's Cathedral ; and by various 
 renewals of this lease, the Corporation held the land until 1769, when the last of 
 the leases expired. Prior to this the Statute of Charles II. had passed, by which 
 persons of all degrees were prohibited from granting leases of Church property
 
 76 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 for longer periods than forty years ; and thus, in 1769, the growth of London having 
 rendered it desirable that the land should be built over, a private Act was passed 
 authorizing the then Prebend, Dr. Wilson, to lease the land to the Corporation for 
 ninety-nine years, upon the terms of two-sixths of the net income to be received by 
 them being paid to the Prebend as his own property (in lieu of any fine for the grant 
 of the lease), one-sixth to the Prebendal Stall, and the remaining three-sixths to be 
 retained by the Corporation. This lease will expire in 1868. Wilson-street is named 
 from the Prebend, the Rev. Dr. Wilson. 
 
 The earliest known record of the Bunhill-fields themselves, as distinguished from the 
 rest of the land in the lease, is that the City leased them to one Tindal, for fifty-one 
 years, from Christmas, 1661 : in that lease they are described as meadow-land, and 
 the lease contains a provision for the citizens using them for recreation. Both this 
 provision and the description of the land are at direct variance with its having been 
 used as a place of burial up to that date. In four years, afterwards, however (1665), 
 London was visited with the Great Plague, and in the next year with the Great Fire ; 
 and it is extremely probable that in the disturbance of social order which these two 
 visitations caused, the living sought for their dead a burial-place outside the City, and 
 found it at Bunhill-fields. Certain it is, that before the expiration of Tindal's lease 
 it had become a burial-ground. As such, however, the Corporation had nothing to do 
 with it, until the year 1788, when they determined not to renew the lease, but take it 
 into their own hands, and so it has remained to this day. 
 
 Since 1788 the Prebend has year by year received his moiety of the income of the 
 ground as a cemetery, and as that cemetery now reverts to those claiming under the 
 Prebend, i.e., the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, they have imposed upon them the obliga- 
 tion of preserving the ground for the purpose for which they have received the money. 
 There remains but one point from which liability is sought to be imposed upon the 
 Corporation. It is said the Act of Parliament authorized the renewal of the lease in 
 perpetuity, and that the City, through their negligence in not having obtained a re- 
 newal of the lease, must indemnify the owners of graves. It were to be wished, for 
 the City's sake, that the renewal were authorized, as they lose in 1868, through the 
 expiring of the lease, an income of 40,OOOZ. per annum ; but, unfortunately, this is not 
 the fact. The mistake has arisen from the marginal note saying the lease is renew- 
 able ; but there is nothing in the Act to warrant the note, and no one at this distance 
 of time can explain how the error has arisen. (Communicated to the City Press.) 
 
 Curll published a Register of the interments here to 1717, with the inscriptions, &c. 
 Among these are the following : 
 
 " Here lyeth interred the body of Edward Tucker, late of Weymouth, who (by his own prediction) 
 departed this life, March 4th, 1706-7, aged 86 years." " This ground, six foot long eastward, is bought 
 for Elizabeth Chapman." This notice is valuable, as conclusively showing that, even at that early 
 period, graves were sold in perpetuity, and any attempt to sell the soil for secular purposes would be a 
 most unwarrantable desecration. " Here lyeth the body of Francis Smith, Bookseller, who in his 
 youth was settled in a separate congregation, sustaining, between 1659 and 1688, great persecutions, by 
 Imprisonments, exile, fines, and for printing petitions for caling of a Parliament, with several things 
 against Popery. After nearly 40 imprisonments, he was fined 5001. for printing and selling the speech 
 of a noble peer, and three times suffered corporeal punishment. He was for said fine five years a 
 prisoner in the King's Bench, which hard duress utterly impaired his health. He dyed House- 
 keeeper in the Custom House, December 22nd, 1691." Engraved on the side of a handsome tomb, 
 " Mordecai Abbott, Esq., Receiver-General of His Majesty's Customs, obiit 29 Feby. 1699, setat. 43 : 
 
 Here Abbott, virtue's great example, lies, 
 
 The charitable, pious, just, and wise ; 
 
 But how shall fame in this small Table paint 
 
 The Husband, Father, Master, Friend, and Saint ? 
 
 A soul on Earth so ripe for glory found ; 
 
 So like to theirs, who are with glory crown'd, 
 
 That 'tis less strange such worth so soon should go 
 
 To Heaven, than that it staid so long below." 
 
 Mr. A. J. Jones, in a volume published in 1849, gives a transcript of most of the 
 inscriptions that remained in Bunhill-fields at that period, about three hundred. 
 
 Among the eminent persons interred here, in an altar-tomb, east end of the ground, 
 is Dr. Thomas Goodwin, the Independent preacher, who attended Oliver Cromwell on 
 his deathbed. Also Dr. John Owen, Dean of Christchurch and Vice-Chancellor of 
 Oxford when Cromwell was Chancellor ; he preached the first sermon before the Parlia-
 
 BUNHILL-FIELDS. 77 
 
 ment after the execution of Charles I. But more attractive is the resting-place of 
 John Bunyan, in the vault of his friend Strudwick, the grocer, Holborn Bridge, at 
 whose house Bunyan died. His name is not recorded in the Register, nor is it in Curll's 
 List ; but the place was long marked by a monument, with this inscription : " Mr. John 
 Bunyan, Author of The Pilgrim's Progress, ob. 31 Aug. 1688, set. 60. 
 
 The ' pilgrim's" progress now is finished, 
 And Death has laid him in this earthly bed." 
 
 This inscription was cut many years after Bunyan's funeral. Southey tells us, with grave 
 humour, " People like to be buried in company, and in good company. The Dissen- 
 ters regarded Bunhill Fields' Burial-ground as their Campo Santo, and especially for 
 Bunyan's sake. It is said that many have made it their desire to be interred as near 
 as possible to the spot where his remains are deposited." In May, 1852, the above me- ijg 
 morial was replaced by an altar-tomb, upon which is the recumbent figure of Bunyan, 
 book in hand ; the end panels have sculptures from The Pilgrim's Progress. 
 
 Here, too, sleeps Lord-Deputy Fleetwood, of the Civil Wars, Oliver Cromwell's soii- 
 in-law, and husband of the widow of Ireton : there was a monument to his memory, 
 which has been obliterated or removed. 
 
 Here also rest Dr. Daniel Williams, founder of the Library in Redcross-street ; John 
 Dunton, author of his own Life and Errors ; the Rev. D. Neal, author of the History 
 of the Puritans ; Dr. Lardner, author of the Credibility of the Gospel History ; Dr. 
 John Guise, Dr. Gill, Dr. Stennett, Dr. Harris ; Dr. Richard Price, author of Rever- 
 sionary Payments ; Dr. Henry Hunter, Dr. Fisher, the Rev. Theophilus Lindsey ; 
 Dr. A. Rees, editor of the Cyclopaedia ; George Walker, of Nottingham and Man- 
 chester ; and the Rev. Thomas Belsham, the Unitarian Minister. 
 
 Defoe, the author of Robinson Crusoe, who was born and died in the parish of St. 
 Giles, Cripplegate, is buried in Bunhill-fieldsj, with his second wife, the spot unknown. 
 The entry in the register, written, probably, by some ignorant person who made a 
 strange blunder of his name, is as follows : " 1731, April 26. Mr. Dubow, Cripple- 
 gate." Here lies, with a headstone to her memory, Susannah Wesley, mother of John 
 Wesley, founder of the people called Methodists ; and Charles Wesley, the first person 
 who was called a Methodist. Near the centre of the ground is a monument to Dr. 
 Isaac Watts ; Joseph Ritson, the antiquary, lies here, spot unmarked ; William Blake, 
 the painter and poet, 25 feet from the north wall, without a monument ; and Thomas 
 Stothard, R.A., best known by his Canterbury Pilgrimage. Near the street rails is 
 a monument to Thomas Hardy, who was tried for treason in company with John Home 
 Tooke. Hardy's memorial bears a long and somewhat defiant semi- political inscription. 
 
 In 1864, Mr. Deputy Charles Reed, F.S.A., presented to the Common Council a 
 memorial, influentially signed, praying the Court to take steps for the preservation of 
 Bunhill-fields burial-ground. This memorial eloquently says : 
 
 " In this burying-ground are interred men whose memory and writings are among the most precious 
 of our national heirlooms ; some of the most fearless asserters of civil and religious liberty at critical 
 periods of our history ; notable men of all professions and of all religious communities ; divines, 
 artists, reformers ; a crowd of worthies and confessors whose learning, piety, and public services not 
 only adorned the age in which they lived, but have proved a permanent blessing to the land, and whose 
 names the world will not willingly let die. The Nonconformist bodies, especially, look upon this as the 
 holy field of their illustrious dead, because here lie buried those whose remains were refused interment 
 in the graveyards of the churches in which they had long faithfully ministered, and whose memory is 
 reverently cherished in the hearts and homes of their religious descendants." 
 
 George Fox, founder of the Society of Friends, is erroneously said to have been 
 buried here ; but he lies in Coleman-street, which was part of Finsbury Manor Farm, 
 and was, before Fox's death, acquired by the Friends as their place of interment; 
 besides, the Friends were looked upon in no favourable manner by the other dissenting 
 bodies, who had acquired Bunhill-fields. In Fox's diary it is related how, after the 
 meeting in White Hart Court, Gracechurch- street, he went to Henry Goldney's, close 
 by, and there admitted to others that " he thought he felt the cold strike to his heart as 
 he came out of the meeting." It was " the 13th of the llth month," 1690, being in 
 the 67th year of his age, that Fox died. On the day appointed for his interment a meet- 
 ing of Friends was held in White Hart Court, and "the body was borne, accompanied 
 by very great numbers, to the Friends' burying-ground, near Bunhill Fields" Hasty 
 readers have inferred from this that it was in the larger cemetery George Fox was buried.
 
 78 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 CANON BURY TOWER, 
 
 A T the northern extremity of the parish of Islington, denotes the site of the country- 
 * house of the Prior of the Canons of St. Bartholomew ; hence, it is supposed, the 
 name of Canons' -bury, bury heing synonymous with burgh, a dwelling. On a garden- 
 house hard by is sculptured the rebus or device of Bolton, the last prior a bolt, or 
 arrow for the crossbow, through a tun : 
 
 " Old Prior Boltcm, with his bolt and tun." 
 
 The Tower, which is of red brick, is believed to have been built by Sir John 
 Spencer, of Crosby-place, who purchased the estate in 1570. Elizabeth, his only 
 daughter and heiress, married William, second Lord Compton, who is traditionally said 
 to have contrived her elopement from her father's house at Canonbury in a baker's 
 basket. In 1618, he was created Earl of Northampton, and from him the present 
 owner of Canonbury, who is the eleventh Earl and third Marquis of Northampton, is 
 lineally descended. 
 
 The Tower is 17 feet square, and nearly 60 feet in height, and consists of seven 
 stories and 23 rooms. For many years it was let in lodgings. Amongst its tenants 
 was Ephraim Chambers, whose Cyclopedia was not only the basis of Rees's work, 
 but originated all the modern Cyclopaedias in the English and the other European 
 languages. Chambers died at Canonbury, May 18, 1740, and was buried in West- 
 minster Abbey, under a short Latin inscription, his own composition. Newbery, the 
 bookseller, lodged here ; and in his apartments Goldsmith often lay concealed from his 
 creditors, and under a pressing necessity he there wrote his Vicar of Walcefield ; " he 
 was the most diligent slave that ever toiled in the mill of Grub-street." 
 
 " A silly notion at one time prevailed that there was formerly a subterranean com- 
 munication between Canonbury House and the Priory of St. Bartholomew. Similar 
 vulgar and absurd stories are current at most of the large monasteries ; as Malmesbury, 
 Netley, Glastonbury, &c." ( Godwin's Churches of London.) 
 
 The ancient priory mansion covered the entire site now occupied by Canonbury - 
 place, and had attached to it a park of about four acres, with large gardens, a fish- 
 pond, &c. ; most of which were included in the premises of Canonbury Tea-gardens and 
 Tavern, in the middle of the last century but a small ale-house. It was enlarged and 
 improved by a Mr. Lane, who had been a private soldier ; but its celebrity was chiefly 
 owing to the widow Sutton, who resided here from 1785 to 1808, and laid out the 
 bowling-green and grounds. The streets which now cover the Canonbury estate are 
 mostly named from the titles of the Marquis of Northampton, the ground landlord. 
 
 CARVINGS IN WOOD. 
 
 PPHE art of Sculpture in Wood has ever been royally and nobly encouraged in 
 -L England ; and the metropolis contains many fine specimens of ancient and modern 
 skill in this tasteful branch of decoration. 
 
 The figures carved upon the chestnut roof of Westminster Hall show the degree of 
 excellence the art had attained in this country so early as the reign of Richard II. 
 The sculptured arms on the corbels are those of France and England, quarterly ; and of 
 St. Edward the Confessor, as borne by Richard II. ; whose favourite badge, viz., the 
 white hart, lodged, ducally gorged and chained, and his crest of a lion guardant 
 crowned, standing on a chapeau and helmet, are also carved, in alternate succession, 
 on the cornice. 
 
 There is every reason to suppose the timber architecture of Old London to have been 
 elaborate and beautiful. Till about the year 1625, nearly all the houses were built of 
 wood : the interiors of the better sort were often richly carved, particularly in the 
 panels 'of rooms, chimney-pieces, ceilings, and staircases j and the exteriors displayed a 
 similar love of ornament in the doors and barge-boards, and story corbels. 
 
 The Great Fire of 1666 spared few specimens of early wood-carving ; but several 
 exist in quarters not reached by the destroyer. Of existing Gothic work may be
 
 CARVINGS IN WOOD. 79 
 
 mentioned the decorations of Crosby Hall, much injured, however, by " restoration." 
 The excellently carved stalls in the church of St. Helen, Bishopsgate, and those of the 
 Chapel of Henry VII. at Westminster, are unusually magnificent, and were mostly 
 executed by foreign workmen summoned to England by Henry VII. 
 
 In the reign of Elizabeth, not only the houses of the nobility were decorated, but 
 furniture made of British woods was richly carved : the late Mr. Cottingham, F.S.A., 
 assembled many unique specimens of this period, which were dispersed in 1851. 
 
 In the Elizabethan style may also be mentioned : 
 
 Two splendid brackets (griffins), dated 1592, supporting the yard entrance at 21, Princes-square, 
 Wilson-street, Finsbuiy. 
 
 Two house-fronts in Aldersgate-strect. 
 
 Some boldly carved brackets (1595), at the Old Boar's Head, Gray's-Inn-lane. 
 
 Panel and trusses over the mantel of the Cock Tavern, Fleet-street (temp. James I.). The room was 
 formerly panelled opposite the fire-place. The sign bird, over the entrance doorway from Fleet-street, 
 is in the manner of Gibbons, and gilt. 
 
 Brackets (temp. James I.) at the back of the house, 61, Gray's-Inn-lane. 
 
 There was some fine Elizabethan panelling in the Star Chamber at Westminster, taken down in 1835; 
 but restored for the Hon. E. Cust, Leasowe Castle. 
 
 Brackets, very fine, at the corner of Cloth Fair, Smithfield. 
 
 House-front, 91, Fenchurch-street. 
 
 Several house-fronts, rather later, in Whitechapel Market. 
 
 The Sir Paul Pindar's Head, Bishopsgate-street-without, has a finely carved front, and a carved ceil- 
 ing in one of the unmodernized rooms. 
 
 The projecting house-front (now gilt), 17, Fleet-street, opposite Chancery-lane. 
 
 Mask brackets (temp. James I.), at the front and back of the Old Cheshire Cheese, 48, Hart-street, 
 City; and a spirited grotesque head (same date) within the court of Red-Lion-place, Cock-lane. 
 
 A fine staircase, attributed to Inigo Jones (probably later), at 96, St. Martin's-laue, Charing Cross. 
 
 At the White Horse Inn, Church-street, Chelsea, (burnt Dec. 14, 184*),) were four grotesque Eliza- 
 bethan brackets, carved chimney-pieces ; and a carved frame for the sign, dated 1509. 
 
 The most celebrated carver after the Great Fire was Grinling Gibbons, who, Wai- 
 pole tells us, so delicately carved a pot of flowers, that they shook in the room with the 
 motion of coaches passing in the street. Most of the interior carvings of St. Paul's 
 Cathedral were executed by Gibbons, or by Dutch workmen under his superintendence ; 
 the cherubs in the choir are in the highest style of the art. 
 
 One of the best carvers employed by Wren was Philip Wood, who came up a poor lad 
 from Suffolk, and carved as a specimen of his skill a sow and pigs, for which he re- 
 ceived ten guineas. According to the Commissioners' Report, between the years 1701 
 and 1707, Wood was paid large sums of money for carved work in St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 It is not generally known that the pulpit at St. Paul's was designed by Mylne, and 
 executed about sixty years since by one of the finest flower-carvers of the time, named 
 Mowatt, then employed by a relative of Edward Wyatt, the carver and gilder, in Ox- 
 ford-street. The pulpit is carved in Spanish mahogany and satin-wood ; the foliage 
 is marvellously played with in the volutes. 
 
 Many of the Halls of the City Companies are decorated with reputed Gibbons's work ; 
 as well as the interiors of most of the churches built by Sir Christopher Wren. St. 
 James's, Piccadilly, has some fine pulpit, altar, and pew carvings; and the churchwardens' 
 pews at Allhallows Barking (with the symbols of the four Evangelists), are amongst 
 the most delicate decorations of their time in the metropolis. The Hall of Heralds' 
 College is also well enriched in the Gibbons style ; and a beautiful specimen of Gibbons's 
 skill in fruit, fish, game, shells, &c. is preserved at the New River House, Clerkenwell. 
 
 At Canonbury House, Islington, the great chamber contains a quaintly carved oak 
 fireplace, in which are small statues of Mars and Venus draped. The room had 
 originally wood panelling and carved pilasters placed at intervals ; all this, with the 
 exception of two or three pilasters, has disappeared ; the doorway with the busts of 
 the old English gentleman and dame in the quaint costume of the time, is very curious. 
 These doorways generally projected like small screens into these great rooms, and were 
 used as a protection from the cold. Its Roman moulding and enriched frieze-like running 
 ornament throughout the building of the same character as the latter. The ceiling of 
 the room bears the date 1559, probably that year when Sir John Spencer came to re- 
 side on the spot. Besides the great chamber, there are several other long rooms full 
 of rich carvings, especially one on the ground-floor, which retains all its original de- 
 coration : this was formerly the parlour of the old mansion. The whole of the carving 
 of these old buildings is carefully protected by the noble owner, the present Marquis
 
 80 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of Northampton : the tenants being strictly directed iu their leases to uphold, maintain, 
 &c., all the several antiquities submitted to their charge. (J. C. Richardson, Architect.) 
 
 In 1861, there was sold amongst the old materials of No. 108, Cheapside, which 
 stood immediately opposite Bow Church, the " fine old oak panelling of a large dining- 
 room, with chimney piece and cornice to correspond, elaborately carved in fruit and 
 foliage, in excellent preservation, 750 feet superficial." This " oak-clad room," was 
 bought by Mr. Morris Charles Jones, of Gunrog, near Welshpool, in North Wales, 
 for 72 10s. 3d., including commission and expenses of removal, being about 1*. Sd. 
 per foot superficial. It has been conveyed from Cheapside to Gunrog. This room was 
 the principal apartment of the house of Sir Edward Waldo, and stated, in a pam- 
 phlet by Mr. Jones, " to have been visited by six reigning sovereigns, from Charles II. to 
 George III., on the occasion of civic festivities and for the purpose of witnessing the Lord 
 Mayor's Show." (See Mr. Jones's pamphlet, privately printed, 1864.) A contem- 
 porary (the Builder) doubts whether this room can be the work of Gibbons ; " if so, it 
 is a rare treasure, cheaply gained. But except in St. Paul's, a crown and ecclesiastical 
 structure, be it remembered not a corporate one there is not a single certain example 
 of Gibbons's art to be seen in the City of London proper." 
 
 About the same year that Gibbons died, Nicholas Collet was born. This clever 
 carver lived until 1804. He executed the carving of Queen Anne's state-carriage, and 
 it is probable that to him we are indebted for the best of the decorated doors in 
 Ormond-street, Queen-square. William Collins, the inseparable companion of Gains- 
 borough the painter, was an excellent modeller and carver. 
 
 Smith, in his London Antiquities, says " Samuel Monette, a native of Paris, now 
 living in London, claims the highest encomiums I can possibly bestow : his art is prin- 
 cipally confined to flowers, and when I say that Grinling Gibbons was a mouse to him, 
 I shall not utter too much ; his carvings in wood are so light and playful, that they 
 may be blown away." This artist designed the pulpits of St. Paul's Cathedral, St. 
 Paul's, Covent-garden, St. Margaret's Westminster, &c. Smith also speaks well of 
 the carving of Burns, famous for carving wheat-sheafs; one of these wheat-sheafs still 
 remains in a shop in the West Strand, not far from the Electric Telegraph Station. 
 Builder, 1854. 
 
 Gog and Magog, the giants in Guildhall, which are masterly examples of carving, are 
 of wood and hollow : they are composed of pieces of fir, and are said to be the pro- 
 duction of a ship-carver. It is also reported that they were presented to the City by 
 the Stationers' Company, which, if true, might have given rise to the common report 
 of their being made of paper. 
 
 London once abounded in richly-carved doorways and over-doors of the 17th and 18tli 
 centuries : there were good examples in Great Ormond-street ; in Shire-lane, Temple 
 Bar, where Gibbons once lived ; in Cavendish-square, especially at No. 33 ; the entrance 
 to Langbourn Chambers, Fenchurch-street ; and some old mansions in Mark-lane ; 
 there was formerly a very fine one over the door of .the Ship Tavern, Water-lane. 
 
 State Coaches present fine carving. Such are the Lord Mayor's Coach, kept at the 
 Green Yard, Whitecross- street ; the Queen's Coach, at the Royal Mews, Pimlico; and 
 the Speaker's Coach, Prince's-street, Westminster. 
 
 In private collections, some magnificent specimens of early carving are preserved : 
 such were the Italian bedstead -pillars of the 16th century, and the bas-relief after 
 Rubens, in the Earl of Cadogan's collection ; and the collection, dating from the 
 15th to the 18th centuries, the property of G. Field, Esq., of Lister House, Clapham. 
 
 Carving received considerable check from the introduction of stucco in the reign of 
 George II. j but the art has received a fresh impetus in the present century. Some 
 fine church carving was executed in 1839-42 for the Temple Church ; and in 1847-8 
 for the choir of Westminster Abbey, then refitted with canopied stalls, organ-case, screen, 
 &c., by Messrs. Ruddle, of Peterborough. The church of St. Mary-at-Hill, Billings- 
 gate, was redecorated in 1849-50, by W. Gibbs Rogers : the pulpit alone cost upwards 
 of 500Z. ; the stairs have an elaborate string-course, and all the banisters are on the 
 rake ; the bosses and flowers of the sounding-board exceed a foot in projection : the 
 organ-gallery front has flowers festooned with musical instruments, and the pretty 
 conceit of a crab crawling over a violin. Mr. Rogers has also carved, from a design
 
 CEMETERIES. 81 
 
 suggested by the Queen, a boxwood cradle in rich Italian style, most delicately finished, 
 and first used for the infant Prince Arthur, born 1850 : it is cleverly engraved and 
 described in the Art Journal for August 1850. 
 
 St. Michael's Church, Cornhill, has also been redecorated by Mr. Rogers, with carvings 
 of elaborate detail, which will be described hereafter, from the carver's pamphlet. 
 
 The interior enrichments of the New Palace at Westminster present some fine 
 specimens of contemporary carving. Much of the work has, however, been executed 
 by machinery, and finished by hand. The new Hall of Lincoln's Inn has also some 
 fine new work-. 
 
 The great depository for old carvings is Wardour -street, Oxford-street, where the 
 dealers mostly keep shop : much discrimination is requisite in making purchases. 
 
 CEMETERIES, 
 
 OR public burial-grounds, planted and laid out as gardens around the metropolis, are a 
 novelty of our times; although they were suggested just after the Great Fire of 1666, 
 when Evelyn regretted that advantage had not been taken of that calamity to rid the 
 City of its burial-places, and establish a necropolis without the walls. He deplores that 
 " the churchyards had not been banished to the north walls of the City, where a grated 
 inclosure, of competent breadth, for a mile in length, might have served for an universal 
 cemetery to all the parishes, distinguished by the like separations, and with ample walks 
 of trees; the walks adorned with monuments, inscriptions, and titles, apt for contempla- 
 tion and memory of the defunct, and that wise and excellent law of the Twelve Tables 
 restored and renewed." 
 
 The several Cemeteries in the suburbs are the property of Joint-Stock Companies. 
 From the costliness of interment in them, they at first but little abated the evil 
 of intramural burial, as stated in the Report of the Board of Health in 1850. By the 
 Metropolitan Interment Act, passed in the above year, the evil has been abolished, and 
 Cemeteries provided for the several metropolitan parishes. 
 
 KESSAL GREEX CEMETERY was the first established. It lies upon high ground, 
 left of the Harrow Road and the hamlet of Kensal Green, about two miles from Padding- 
 ton Green. It is divided into two grounds : the westernmost consecrated Nov. 2, 
 1832 ; the smaller ground being for the interment of persons whose friends desire a 
 funeral service differing from that of the Church of England. The same distinction 
 is observed in each of the Cemeteries ; and each is planted and laid out in walks, par- 
 terres, and borders of flowers, and other styles of landscape-gardening. A register is 
 kept of interments for both portions of the grounds, and a duplicate is lodged with the 
 registrars of parishes in the diocese. Each Company has its scale of charges for inter- 
 ment in catacomb, vault, or grave. 
 
 Within three years from the opening of the Kensal-Green Cemetery, there took 
 place in it about 1000 interments. Each ground has its chapel and colonnades ; in 
 the latter are placed mural tablets, and beneath are vaults or catacombs. The memorials 
 in this Cemetery are very numerous : altar- tombs, " monumental urns," sarcophagi, 
 and the broken column ; capacious tomb-houses, encompassed with flower-beds or 
 overhung with funereal trees; pillars, bearing urns; weeping and praying figures, 
 medallion portraits, and groups of insignia are most frequent ; though emblems are 
 borrowed alike from the Pagan temple and the Christian church. The cross, in its 
 picturesque varieties, and the plain but massive slab, are side by side. Among the 
 most conspicuous is, at the entrance, a monument to Madame Soyer, by a Belgian 
 sculptor ; the pedestal and a colossal figure of Faith are upwards of twenty feet in height. 
 The tombs of St. John Long, the " counter-irritation " surgeon ; of Morison, the 
 " hygeist " and of Ducrow, the equestrian ; are also prominent : the latter left a sum 
 of money for flowers, shrubs, and repairs. The memorial to Thomas Hood, the popular 
 humorist, with sculptures from his poems, is in better taste. Here is interred the 
 Duke of Sussex, according to especial directions left by that prince : his grave, near the 
 chapel, is covered by an immense granite tomb ; and near it rest the remains of the 
 Princess Sophia, his sister, beneath a handsome sarcophagus tomb of Sicilian marble 
 
 a
 
 82 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 erected in 1850, by subscription of Queen Victoria, the King of Hanover, Adolphus 
 Duke of Cambridge, and the Duchess of Gloucester. Beyond Kensal Green, is a large 
 Cemetery for Eoman Catholics : here is interred Cardinal Wiseman. 
 
 THE SOUTH METROPOLITAN AND NORWOOD CEMETERY was consecrated Dec. 6, 
 1837 : the chapels, by Tite, in the pointed style, are very beautiful ; and the grounds 
 are hilly, and picturesquely planted. 
 
 HIGHGATE AND KENTISH TOWN CEMETERY, consecrated May 20, 1839, lies imme- 
 diately below Highgatc Church. It has a Tudor gate-house and chapel, and cata- 
 combs of Egyptian architecture ; the ground is laid out in terraces, tastefully planted ; 
 and the distant view of the overgrown Metropolis, from among the tombs, is sug- 
 gestive to a meditative mind. 
 
 ABNEY PARK CEMETERY and Arboretum, lying eastward, at Stoke-Newington, was 
 opened by the Lord Mayor, May 20, 1840. It was formed from the Park of Sir 
 Thomas Abney, the friend of Dr. Isaac Watts, to mark whose thirty-six years' resi- 
 dence here a statue of the Doctor, by Baily, R.A., was erected in 1845. The Abney 
 mansion was taken down in 1844 ; many of the fine old trees remain. 
 
 WESTMINSTER AND WEST OF LONDON CEMETERY, Earl's Court, Fulham-road, was 
 consecrated June 15, 1840; it has a domed chapel, with semi-circular colonnades of 
 imposing design. In the grounds is a large altar-tomb, with athlete figures, modelled 
 by Baily, and erected by subscription, to Jackson the pugilist. 
 
 NUNHEAD CEMETERY, Peckham, was consecrated July 29, 1840. 
 
 THE CITY OP LONDON AND TOVTER HAMLETS CEMETERY, lies at the extremity of 
 Mile-End Road, north of Bow Common ; and VICTORIA PARK CEMETERY, about eleven 
 acres, at Bethnal Green, north of the Eastern Counties Railway. There are also large 
 Cemeteries for Marylebone and Paddington ; Islington and St. Pancras. 
 
 A few suburban churchyards are planted similarly to the Cemeteries ; as that of St. 
 John's Wood Chapel, where are buried Joanna Southcot ; Richard Brothers " the 
 prophet ;" and John Jackson, R.A., the portrait-painter. The churchyard of St. Giles's- 
 in-the-Fields, Lower Pancras Road, consecrated so long ago as 1804, has many 
 flowery graves : here is the handsome tomb of Sir John Soane, overhung witli 
 cypresses. The burying-ground of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, Pratt-street, Cainden 
 Town, is also planted : here lies Charles Dibdin, the song- writer. 
 
 The burial-grounds for Jews are mostly laid out and planted in the cemetery 
 manner. Formerly their burial-place was outside the City Wall, at Leyrestowe, 
 " without Cripplegate." 
 
 CHANCES Y-LANE 
 
 " A CQUIRED its ominous name about the time of Richard I. There is extant 
 -* a deed, by which Longchamp, Bishop of Ely, devised certain messuages in the 
 Chancellor's-lane, heretofore the New-street." (Archaological Journal, No. 12, 
 p. 375.) This is the greatest " legal thoroughfare" in London, and extends from 
 Fleet-street, opposite Inner Temple Gate, to Holborn, nearly opposite Gray's Inn. 
 In Edward I.'s time it was so foul and miry as to be barred up, to prevent accidents. 
 Entering by Fleet-street, on the left were until lately some half-timbered houses, with 
 projecting windows, overhanging stories, and gabled fronts. Izaak Walton kept a 
 draper's shop at the second house on the left, taken down when that end of the lane 
 was widened; he subsequently removed, according to Sir Harris Nicolas's Life of 
 Walton, five doors higher up in the lane. Opposite is Serjeants' Inn, rebuilt by Sir 
 Robert Smirke in 1838 ; but the old Hall remains. Higher up, on the west, is the 
 Law Institution, with a noble Grecian-Ionic portico, built of stone by Vulliamy, in 
 1842 ; it contains a library and club accommodation for the legal profession. In this 
 ancient thoroughfare have been built several edifices of ornamental character, including 
 the large premises for the Union Bank, at the cost of 30,OOOZ. 
 
 The Bis-hop of Chichester formerly had a palace iu Chancery-lane, where are still
 
 CHARING CROSS. 83 
 
 Chichester Rents and Symonds Inn ; the latter, to this day, owned by the see. The 
 large old house, with low-built shops before it, and between Bream's Buildings and 
 Cursitor-street, is said to have been the Bishop's palace. Nearly opposite is the red- 
 brick gatehouse of Lincoln's Inn ; a Tudor arch between two massive towers, built by 
 Sir Thomas Lovell, 1518, and bearing his arms. 
 
 The Survey of Aggas, in 1560, shows Chancery-lane with only a few houses at the 
 end, the intervening road flanked with gardens; and there is no reason to doubt 
 Aubrey's statement that young Ben Jonson worked with his father-in-law, a brick- 
 layer, in building the garden-wall of Lincoln's Inn, when, as Fuller says, " having a 
 trowel in his hand, he had a book in his pocket." 
 
 The stone buildings at the northern end of the lane are the Accountant- General's 
 and Inrolment Offices. Opposite, upon the site of Southampton Buildings, was 
 Southampton House, inherited by the ill-fated William, Lord Russell, by his marriage 
 with the daughter of Thomas, last Earl of Southampton. 
 
 " It was in passing this house, the scene of his domestic happiness, on his way to the scaffold in 
 Lincoln' s-Inn-Fields, that the fortitude of the martyr for a moment forsook him (W. Lord Russell) ; but 
 over-mastering his emotion, he said ' The bitterness of death is now past.' It is from this house that 
 some of Lady Rachel Russell's celebrated letters are dated. A former entrance to the chapel of South- 
 ampton House appears to correspond with the moulding of the flat timbered roof, which is of the time 
 of Henry VII. This part of the edifice retains its original proportions, except that its height is divided 
 by a modem floor. Its length is about 40 feet by about 20. Other portions of Southampton House have 
 been incorporated with the surrounding dwellings, one of which contains a beautiful Elizabethan stair- 
 case. Old mouldings and panelling appear likewise in 47, Southampton Buildings, which house seems 
 to have been constructed upon a portion of the ancient mansion." J. Wykeham Archer. 
 
 CHASING CROSS. 
 
 THE large area at the meeting of the Strand, Whitehall, and Cockspur-street, with 
 Trafalgar-square on the north, is named from the Village of Cherringe, near 
 Westminster, and seems to have been the border or neutral ground between the City 
 and the King's western palace. Tradition traces it to the stone cross erected there, 
 to Eleanor, the Chere Seine of Edward I. ; but this tradition is fanciful. 
 
 In the narrative of the quarrel between the merchants of London and Northampton, 
 in the Liber de Antiquis Legibus, the following passage occurs : " Quibus literis im- 
 petratis, ecce ! rumores quod predict! p'sones fuerunt apud Cherringe juxta Westmon- 
 asterium ubi Maior et Ballivi Norehamptone illos adduxerunt." This was in 1260, and 
 Queen Eleanor (the Chere Seine in question) died in 1291. But, the association is of 
 older date, for in King Edward I., Neale's Works, edited by Dyce, we read : 
 
 " Erect a rich and stately carved cross 
 Whereon her statue shall with glory shine, 
 And henceforth see you call it Charing Cross ; 
 For why ? the charient and the choicest queen, 
 That ever did delight my royal eyes 
 There dwells in darkness." 
 
 This was the last spot at which the Queen's body rested on its way to Westminster for 
 burial. Mr. Hudson Turner, in Manners and Household Expenses of England in the \3t7i 
 and 15th Centuries, gives some curious particulars of the nine Eleanor Crosses, of which 
 two were those at Charing and Cheap. Charing Cross was built of Caen stone, and 
 Dorset marble steps, by Richard and Roger de Crundale; it was highly decorated, 
 and had paintings and metal figures, gilt ; besides Eleanor and others, sculptured in 
 Caen stone by Alexander of Abingdon, and modelled by Torel, a goldsmith, probably 
 an Italian. It has been much discussed whether this and the other Eleanor Crosses 
 were erected by Edward I. as memorials of his " conjugal affection," or by him as one 
 of the executors of the Queen ; but, surely, " the very last thing that a husband who 
 desired to express his own affection for the deceased wife would do would be to appear, 
 not in his proper person, but as one of her legal representatives." (Athenaeum.) 
 
 That the Crosses were raised by command of the King is founded on the authority of 
 Walsingham and his predecessors, handed down by Sandford and others to the present 
 day : see Mr. Abel's paper upon the Inquiry. 
 
 The Cross appears in the Sutherland View, 1543, with only a few houses near it, and 
 St. Martin's Church literally " in the fields." A century later, puritanical bigotry 
 was at its full height; and April 23, 1643, " by order of the Commission or Committee 
 
 G 2
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 appointed by the House, the sign of a tavern, The Golden Cross, at Charing Cross, was 
 taken down as superstitious and idolatrous." Next followed the Cross itself, it being 
 pulled down in June, July, and August 1647, and knife-hafts made of some of the stone, 
 or marble. Then the wits had their gibe : 
 
 " Undone, undone, the lawyers are, 
 
 They wander about the towne, 
 Nor can find the way to Westminster, 
 
 Now Charing Cross is downe. 
 At the end of the Strand they make a stand, 
 
 Swearing they are at a loss, 
 And chaffing say, That's not the way, 
 They must go by Charing Cross. 
 
 The Downfalle of Charing Cross. 
 
 Next, regicides were executed " at the said place, where Charing Cross stood." In 
 1674, was placed here the noble equestrian statue of Charles I., by Lc Sceur, which had 
 been cast in 1633, but long lay concealed. A memorandum in the State-Paper Office 
 points to the statue having been originally ordered of Le Sceur by Lord Treasurer 
 Weston, afterwards Earl of Portland, to be set up in his gardens at lloehampton. The 
 stone pedestal, long attributed to Gibbons, is proved by written evidence to be the 
 work of Joshua Marshall, master-mason to the Crown. 
 
 Where the Post-office at Charing Cross now stands, there was once a hermitage, 
 within which the patent rolls of the 47th Henry III. grant permission to William de 
 Eadnor, Bishop of Llandaff, to lodge with all his retainers, whenever he came to Lon- 
 don. Opposite this stood the ancient Hospital of St. Mary Roncevalles, founded by 
 William Marechal, Earl of Pembroke. It was suppressed by Henry V. as an alien 
 priory, restored by Edward IV., and finally suppressed by Edward VI., who granted it 
 to Sir Thomas Carwarden, to be held in free soccage of the honour of Westminster. 
 
 Canalletto painted for his patron, Algernon Sidney, Baron Percy, created in 1749 
 Earl of Northumberland, a view of Northumberland-house and Charing Cross ; the 
 picture is now in that mansion ; it was painted about 1746 ,and shows the houses of the 
 street-lines, with their signs, among which is prominent the Golden Cross. 
 
 Charing Cross was a favourite pitch for Punch, or Punchinello, as he is termed in sun- 
 dry entries in the Overseers' books of St. Martin's- in-the-Fields, dated 1666, March 29, 
 which Mr. Cunningham states to be the earliest mention of Punch in England. 
 
 It was at the Rummer Tavern, Charing Cross, that Matthew Prior was brought up 
 by his uncle, the landlord, who had him educated at Westminister School. The Swan, 
 at Charing Cross, was a favourite tavern of Ben Jonson. Proclamations were read 
 here : hence Swift, 
 
 " Where all that passes inter nos, 
 May be proclaimed at Charing-cross," 
 
 a popular saying in our day. Edmund Curll, the notorious bookseller, stood here in 
 the pillory. Sir Harry Vane, the younger, had bis residence next to Northumberland 
 House. Isaac Barrow, the divine, died in mean lodgings over the saddler's long shop 
 at Charing Cross, which lasted till our time. Ehodes, the bookseller, hung out bis 
 sign of the Ship in the same locality. Here, according to Pyne, William Hogarth 
 stood at a window of the old Golden Cross making sketches of the heralds and the 
 sergeant trumpeter's band, and the yeoman guard, who rendezvoused at Charing Cross, 
 purposing to make a picture of the ceremony of proclaiming the new King, George III. 
 On June 21, 1837, Queen Victoria was proclaimed herein fitting state: the High 
 Constable and High Bailiff of Westminster, Knight-marshalmen, drums and trumpets, 
 sergeants- at- arms, pursuivants, heralds, and other authorities, in official costume, 
 standing within a cordon of Life Guards, round the statue, and the Somerset Herald 
 reading aloud the proclamation. 
 
 " I talked," says Boswell, " of the cheerfulness of Fleet-street, owing to the quick 
 succession of people which we perceive passing through it." Johnson " Why, Sir, 
 Fleet-street has a very animated appearance, but I think the full tide of human exis- 
 tence is at Charing Cross." (Boswell, Croker's ed., p. 433). 
 
 The changes at Charing Cross within the last forty years have been very strik- 
 ing. We well remember the paved area about St. Martin's Church, with the 
 surrounding labyrinth of courts, and alleys, and lanes, which the gallants of Elizabeth
 
 CHARTERHOUSE. 85 
 
 or James's time, who had cruised in search of Spanish galleons, wittily named " the 
 Bermudas." 
 
 " Here the valorous Captain Bobadil must have lived in Barmecidal splendour, and have taught his 
 dupes the true conduct of the weapon. Justice Overdo mentions the Bermudas with a righteous indig- 
 nation. ' Look,' says that great legal functionary, ' into any angle of the town, the Streights or the Ber- 
 mudas, where the quarrelling lesson is read, and how do they entertain the time but with bottled ale 
 and tobacco ? At a subsequent period the cluster of avenues exchanged the title of Bermudas for that 
 of the C'ribbee Islands, the learned possessors corrupting the name into a happy allusion to the arts 
 cultivated there. Gay, writing in 1715, describes the small streets branching from Charing Cross as 
 resounding with the shoeblacks' cry, ' Clean your honour's shoes ?' Porridge Island was the cant name 
 for a paved alley near St. Martin's Church, which derived its name from being full of cookshops. A 
 writer in The World (1753) describes a man like Beau Tibbs, who had his dinner hi a pewter-plate 
 from a cookshop in Porridge Island, and with only 100Z. a year was foolish enough to wear a laced suit, 
 go every evening in a chair to a rout, and return to his bedroom on foot, shivering and supperless, vain 
 enough to glory in having rubbed elbows with the quality of Brentford." Pictures of the Period. 
 
 In the improvements, commenced in 1829, was swept away the lower part of St. 
 Martin's-lane. Westward disappeared Duke's-court, where lived Roger Payne, the 
 celebrated bookbinder, whose chef-d'oeuvre, ^Eschylus, in Lord Spencer's library, 
 cost fifteen guineas binding. Then, at the Mews'-gate, lived honest Tom Payne, the 
 bookseller, whose little shop in the shape of L was named the Literary Coffee-house, 
 from its knot of literary frequenters. 
 
 CHAR TEEHO USE. 
 
 NOT far from Smithfield, once the town-green of the City of London, the chivalrous 
 Sir Walter Manny, Lord of the town of Manny, in the diocese of Cambray, and 
 Knight of the Garter in the reign of Edward III., founded in 1371 a monastery of 
 Carthusian monks. The site (now Charterhouse-square) was hi part a lonely field, 
 bearing the name of "No Man's Land." Ralph Stratford bought it as a place of 
 burial for the victims of the pestilence of 13 i9, "where was buried in one year," 
 says Camden, " no less than sixty thousand of the better sort of people." Thirteen 
 acres of adjoining ground, bought at about the same time of St Bartholomew's 
 Spittle, and called the Spittle Croft, had also been enclosed and consecrated. The 
 monastery was devoted to the use of the Carthusian monks, whose name of Chartreuse 
 time has corrupted into Charterhouse. It was the third Carthusian monastery 
 instituted in this country, and its title and address was " The House of the Saluta- 
 tion of the Mother of God, without the Bars of West Smithfield, near London." 
 
 The last prior was executed at Tyburn, May 4, 1535 his head set on London 
 Bridge ; and one of his limbs over the gateway of his own convent the same gateway, 
 it is said, which is still the entrance from Charterhouse-square. The priory, thus 
 sternly dissolved, was first set apart by King Henry VIII. as a place of deposit for 
 his " hales and tents " i.e., " his nets and pavilions." It was afterwards given by 
 the King to Sir Thomas Audley, Lord Chancellor, by whom it was sold to Sir Thomas 
 North, Baron North of Kirtling. Lord North subsequently parted with it to John 
 Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, on whose execution and attainder in 1553 it 
 reverted to Lord North by a grant from the Crown. In 1565, by deeds, and in con- 
 sideration of the sum of 2820/., Roger, second Lord North, sold it to Thomas Howard, 
 Duke of Norfolk, on whose execution and attainder in 1572 it again reverted to the 
 Crown. Queen Elizabeth subsequently granted it to the Duke's second son, Thomas, 
 afterwards Earl of Suffolk, founder of Audley End, in Essex, and father of Frances, 
 Countess of Essex and Somerset, the infamous heroine of " the great Oyer of Poison- 
 ing," in the reign of James I. 
 
 On May 9, 1611, the property was sold by Lord Suffolk to Thomas Sutton, of Camps 
 Castle, in the county of Cambridge, for 13,000/. His wealth was great : he had dis- 
 covered rich veins of coal near Newcastle-on-Tyne, which he worked so profitably as to 
 be reputed worth the then vast sum of 50,000. He added greatly to his fortune by mar- 
 riage ; and in privateering service he captured a Spanish vessel with a cargo valued at 
 20,OOOZ. On June 22, follows his purchase of Charterhouse ; Sutton endowed it as a 
 charity by the name of " the Hospital of King James," " for poor brethren and 
 scholars." Sutton died almost an octogenarian in the same year, Dec. 12th, before his 
 good work was complete, and was buried in the chapel of the Hospital, beneath a
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 sumptuous monument, the work of Stone and Jansen. On opening the vault, in 
 1842, the body of the founder was discovered " lapt in lead," like an Egyptian 
 mummy-case. Sutton has been charged with avarice in acquiring the money he 
 bequeathed, and has been pointed out as the original of Volpone, the Fox ; but this 
 Gifford disproves. In the chapel, Burrell, the preacher to the Hospital, paid the 
 first tribute of praise to the memory of Sutton in a sermon, printed in 1629, but 
 now as rare as a manuscript. 
 
 The buildings and grounds of Charterhouse occupy about thirteen acres of land. 
 Entering by the gate over which one of the quarters of the last prior of the monastery 
 was placed, on the right is part of the " fair dwelling " erected about 1537 ; the 
 Middle or Monitors' Court is of about the same date, though the Long Gallery is 
 reduced by half; the Washhouse Court is one of the few remaining portions of the 
 monastery. The Preacher's Court contains the chapel, which, from a plan, date about 
 1500, seems to be identified with the monastery chapel. In some repairs in 1842 an 
 ancient ambrie was discovered towards the south corner of the east wall. The Chapel 
 contains several fine monuments, besides that of Sutton. The Ante-Chapel, which, 
 like the Evidence Room above it, has a groined roof, bears the date 1512. The Great 
 Chamber, or Old Governors' Room, was either built or decorated by Thomas, fourth 
 Duke of Norfolk, between 1565 and 1571 : it was restored in 1838, and is now the 
 most perfect Elizabethan apartment in London. It has a chimney-piece of wood, a 
 centre and two wings, in two stories, Tuscan and Ionic, reaching to the ceiling, deco- 
 rated with escutcheons of the House of Norfolk. In this room Queen Elizabeth and 
 James I. kept their court on their visits here. And here, on Founder's Day, is delivered 
 the Annual Oration : the walls are richly painted, and hung with six pieces of tapestry. 
 The Great Hall has a screen, music-gallery, sculptured chimney-piece, and lantern in 
 the roof: here hangs a noble portrait of Sutton, and here is celebrated " the Founder's 
 Day," Dec. 12, when the Carthusians dine together by subscription. At the Poor 
 Brothers' celebration was formerly sung the old Carthusian melody, with this chorus : 
 
 "Then blessed be the memory 
 Of good old Thomas Sutton, 
 Who gave us lodging learning 1 , 
 And he gave us beef and mutton." 
 
 In the Upper Hall the foundation scholars dine daily; and, in another Hall, the 
 Master, the Preacher, and other officers. 
 
 This " triple good," as Bacon calls it this " masterpiece of Protestant English 
 charity," as it is called by Fuller, was also " the greatest gift in England, either in Pro- 
 testant or Catholic times, ever bestowed by any individual." It is under the direction 
 of the Queen, fifteen Governors selected from the great officers of state ; and the 
 Master of the Hospital, whose income is 800?. a year, besides a capital residence 
 within the walls. The value of the estates bequeathed by Sutton has increased 
 tenfold ; yet the gross rental, which was, in the year 1691, 5391?., is stated to average 
 less than 21,000?. Upon the foundation are maintained eighty pensioners, or poor 
 brothers, whom the Governors nominate in rotation ; they live together in collegiate 
 style, provided with apartments, and all necessaries, except apparel, in lieu of which 
 they are allowed 14?. a year and a gown each. Next are the scholars, in two divi- 
 sions the foundation, or gown boys, and the boarders received by the masters ; the 
 former are fed and clothed at the expense of the Hospital ; the latter by their friends. 
 The foundation scholars also enjoy the right of election to exhibitions of from SOI. 
 to 100?. a year, at either university, besides the preference over the scholars of presen- 
 tation to valuable church preferments in the gift of the Governors. The sum of 40?. 
 was formerly paid with every boy, either to advance him in college, or as an apprentice- 
 fee in trade ; but no youth has been apprenticed from the school since John Philip 
 Kemble was bound to his uncle, the comedian, to learn the histrionic art. The total 
 number of scholars does not exceed 200 ; formerly the number was 480, when 
 boarding-houses were allowed in the neighbourhood ; now the scholars are only allowed 
 to reside within the walls. 
 
 The present school-house is a modern brick building (1803), on a mound in the 
 playground ; the large central door is surrounded by stones bearing the names of former
 
 CHARTERHOUSE. 87 
 
 Head Masters, and the names of the boys as they leave the school. The internal 
 economy of the establishment is vested in the Master ; the manciple, or house-steward, 
 provides the diet of the Hospital, for which he has " to pay in ready money." 
 
 Charterhouse is more healthily placed than any other public school in the metro- 
 polis. John Wesley imputed his after health and long life to his strict obedience to 
 his father's injunction that he should run round the Charterhouse playing-green 
 three times every morning. There are two play-greens for the " Uppers" and 
 " Unders ;" and by the wall of the ancient monastery is a gravel-walk upon the site of 
 a range of cloisters. The Master has his flower-garden, with its fountain ; there are 
 courts for tennis, a favourite game with Carthusians ; a wilderness of fine trees, inter- 
 sected by grass and gravel walks ; the cloisters, where football and hockey are played ; 
 the old school, its ceiling charged with armorial shields ; the great kitchen, probably 
 the banqueting-hall of the old priory ; the chapel ; and lastly, the burial-ground for the 
 poor brethren. There are besides solitary courts, remains of cloisters and cells, and old 
 doorways and window-cases, which assert the antiquity of the place ; and the Governors 
 have wisely extended the great object of the founder by the grant of a piece of 
 ground, where a church and schools for the poorer classes have been built. 
 
 There are three schoolrooms : one very large, and two smaller, for French and 
 study. The system of education includes Greek and Latin and mathematics ; 
 modern history, geography, natural science ; the French and German languages ; and 
 singing, fencing, and drilling classes. The foundation scholarships are competed for 
 annually. There are other prizes, including the Havelock Exhibition, founded in I860, 
 in honour of General Sir Henry Havelock, who was a Carthusian. 
 
 Oliver Cromwell was elected Governor in 1652, and was succeeded by his son 
 Eichard, in 1658. The most eminent Master of the house was Dr. Thomas Burnet, 
 author of The Sacred Theory of the Earth ; and the most eminent Schoolmaster, the 
 Rev. Andrew Tooke, author of the Pantheon. 
 
 Upon the register of pupils are many illustrious names, including Crawshay, the 
 poet ; Isaac Barrow, the divine and mathematician ; Sir William Blackstone, author of 
 the Commentaries; Joseph Addison, and Richard Steele, both here together; John 
 Wesley, the founder of the Wesleyans ; Lord Chief- Justice Ellenborough (buried in the 
 Chapel) ; the Prime Minister, Lord Liverpool ; Bishop Monk ; Baron Alderson ; and 
 General Sir H. Havelock " Old Phlos," he was called in the school : he is described 
 to have been then a gentle and thoughtful lad, who used to stand looking on while 
 others played, and whose general meditative manner procured for him the name of 
 " Philosopher," and occasionally " Old Philos ;" W. M. Thackeray, the novelist ; and 
 John Leech, the celebrated artist; Sir C. L. Eastlake, President of the Royal 
 Academy ; the two eminent historians of Greece, Bishop Thirlwall and Mr. George 
 Grote, were both scholars together in the same form, under Dr. Raine. 
 
 Among the Poor Brethren were Elkanah Settle, the rival and antagonist of Dryden; 
 John Bagfordjthe antiquary, originally a shoemaker in Turnstile ; Isaac de Groot, nephew 
 of Hugo Grotius ; and Alexander Macbean, who assisted Dr. Johnson in his Dictionary. 
 
 In the Master's Lodge are several excellent portraits : the Founder, engraved by 
 Vertue; Isaac Walton's good old Bishop Morley; Charles II.; Villiers, Duke of 
 Buckingham ; the Duke of Monmouth ; Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury ; William, Earl 
 of Craven ; Archbishop Sheldon ; Lord Chancellor Somers ; and one of Kneller's finest 
 works, the portrait of Dr. Thomas Burnet. 
 
 " Dr. Burnet, elected Master in 1665, died here in 1715, and was buried in the chapel of the institution. 
 Soon after Gurnet's election, James II. addressed a letter to the Governors, ordering them to admit one 
 Andrew Popham as pensioner into the Hospital upon the first vacancy, without tendering to him any 
 oath, or requiring of him any subscription or recognition in conformity with Church of England doc- 
 trine, the King dispensing with any statute or order of the Hospital to the contrary. Burnet, as junior 
 Governor, was called upon to vote first, when he maintained that by express Act of Parliament, 3 Car. I., 
 no officer could be admitted into that Hospital without taking the oaths of allegiance and supremacy. 
 An attempt was made, but without effect, to overrule this opinion. The Duke of Ormond supported 
 Burnet, and on the vote being put, Popham was rejected : and notwithstanding the threats of the King 
 and the Popish Party, no member of the communion was ever admitted into the Charterhouse." 
 
 The history of this noble foundation has been written by Bearcroft, Hearne, and 
 Smythe; and in 1847 appeared Chronicles of Charterhouse, by a Carthusian, a 
 clever work, with illustrations. Charterhouse is also well described in Staunton's
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Great Schools of England, 1865, where are thus sketched the saturnalia of the " fags," 
 now abolished : 
 
 " In former times there was a curious custom of the School termed ' pulling-in,' by which the lower 
 boys manifested their opinion of the seniors in a rough but very intelligible fashion. One day in the 
 year the fags, like the slaves in Rome, had freedom, and held a kind of saturnalia. On this privileged 
 occasion they used to seize the upper boys one by one and drag them from the playground into the 
 Schoolroom, and accordingly as the victim was popular or the reverse he was either cheered and mildly 
 treated, or was hooted, groaned at, and sometimes soundly cufted. The day selected was Good Friday ; 
 
 approaching tlie scene 01 oauie. A general se sauve qm pent ensuea ; ana in tue linrry ol mgnt a meet 
 and quiet lad (the Hon. Mr. Howard), who happened to be seated on some steps, was crushed so dread- 
 fully that, to the grief of the whole school, he shortly after died. ' Pulling-in ' was thenceforth sternly 
 interdicted." 
 
 In the head monitor's room is preserved the iron bedstead on which died W. M. 
 Thackeray ; and in the chapel are memorial tablets to Thackeray and Leech, erected 
 by fellow Carthusians. 
 
 CHEAPSIDE, 
 
 rPHE street extending from the Poultry and Bucklersbury to St. Paul's and New- 
 J- gate-street, was, some three centuries ago, worthily called " the Beauty of London j" 
 and was famed for its " noted store " of goldsmiths, linendrapers, haberdashers, &c. 
 It is named from the Saxon word Chepe, or market : the name, therefore, is the 
 Market-side. 
 
 " In 1269, the pillory that stood in Chepe was broken through the negligence of the Bailiffs, and for 
 a long time unrepaired ; wherefore, in the meantime no punishment was inflicted upon the bakers, 
 who made their loaves just as they desired, so much so that each of their loaves was deficient in one- 
 third of the weight that it ought to weigh ; and this lasted for a whole year and mote." Chronicle of the 
 Mayors and Sheriffs, p. 127. 
 
 In 1331 the south side only was built upon, and the north side was an open field, 
 where jousts, tournaments, or ridings, were often held. By this road passed many a 
 royal pageant ; as when, in the reign of Edward I., Queen Margaret came from the 
 Tower, "there were two bretassches (wooden towers) in the road of Chepe, from 
 which there were eight outlets discharging wine from above ; the road was covered 
 with cloths-of-gold against her first coming." The Chepe was also the scene of many 
 tragical deaths ; as when, in the reign of Edward II., Stapleton, Bishop of Exeter, 
 who had been proclained a traitor, was met near Saint Paul's Church, dragged from 
 his horse and carried into Chepe, and there he was despoiled, and his head cut off; 
 and one of his esquires, and his warden, were beheaded the same day in Chepe. 
 
 Stow describes one of the jonstings held in the reign of Edward III., Sept. 21, 
 1331 ; when, "the stone pavement being covered with sand, that the horses might not 
 slide when they strongly set their feet to the ground, the King held a tournament 
 three days together, with the nobility, valiant men of the realm, and other strange 
 knights. And to the end the beholders might with the better ease see the same, there 
 was a wooden scaffold erected across the street, like unto a tower, wherein the Queen 
 Philippa, and many other ladies, richly attired, and assembled from all parts of the 
 realm, did stand to behold the jousts." This frame brake down; after which the 
 King had a stone shed built " for himself, the queen, and other estates, to stand on, 
 and there to behold the joustings and other shows, at their pleasure, by the Church of 
 St. Mary Bow." This shed, or " seldam," was similarly used in after reigns, especially 
 to behold the Great Watches on the eve of St. John Baptist and St. Peter at Mid- 
 summer. In 1510, on St. John's Eve, King Henry VIII. came to this place, then 
 called the King's Head in Chepe, in the livery of a yeoman of the guard, with an 
 halbert on his shoulder, and there beholding the watch, departed privily when the 
 watch was done ; " but on St. Peter's night next following, he and the Queen came 
 royally riding to the said place, and there with their nobles beheld the Watch of the City, 
 and returned in the morning." When Bow Church was rebuilt, Wren provided, in place 
 of the shed or sild, a balcony in the tower, immediately over the principal entrance 
 in Cheapside ; and though the age of tournaments had passed away, the Lord Mayor's 
 pageants were long viewed from this balcony. 
 
 Opposite Bow Church was taken down, in 1861, No. 108, the house built by Sir
 
 CHELSEA. 89 
 
 Edward Waldo, after the Great Fire, and subsequently leased to David Barclay, 
 linendraper ; which house was visited by six reigning sovereigns, from Charles II. to 
 George III., on civic festivities, and for witnessing the Lord Mayor's Show; in 
 this house Sir Edward Waldo was knighted by Charles II. ; and the Lord Mayor, in 
 1714, was created a baronet by George I. When the house was taken down in 1861, 
 the fine old oak-panelled dining-room, with its elaborate carvings, was purchased 
 entire, and removed to Gunrog, near Welshpool, Montgomeryshire, whose proprietor, 
 Mr. M. C. Jones, has written a description (privately printed) of the panelling, the 
 royal visits, the Barclay family, &c. (See CASTINGS, p. 80.) 
 
 Cheapside Cross, which stood facing Wood-street, was the most magnificent (except 
 that of Charing) of the crosses built by Edward I. to his Queen Eleanor, and was (Mr. 
 Hudson Turner states) the work of Alexander of Abingdon. It was " re-edified" by 
 John Hatberly, Mayor, by license procured in 1441 of Henry VI. ; it was regilt in 
 1522, for the visit of the Emperor Charles V. ; and in 1533 for the coronation of 
 Henry VIII. and Anne Boleyn ; newly burnished at the coronation of Edward VI.; 
 and again newly gilt, 1554, against the arrival of King Philip. After this the Cross 
 was presented by juries as standing " in the highway to the let of carriages ;" but 
 they could not get it removed ; and it was by turns defaced and repaired, and its 
 images stolen and replaced, until May 2, 1643, when it was demolished to the " noyse 
 of trumpets," the workmen being protected by soldiery. 
 
 Nearly opposite Honey-lane was the Standard, the place of execution ; and between 
 Bucklersbury and the Poultry stood Westcheap, or the Great Conduit, which brought 
 the first supply of sweet water to London, from Paddington; facing Foster-lane 
 stood the Little Conduit. Westward of the site of the Great Conduit, on the north 
 side, is Mercers' Hall and chapel, rebuilt after the Great Fire of 1666; the original 
 chapel being an hospital purchased at the Dissolution by means of Sir Richard Gresbam. 
 Westward, next No. 142, is Saddlers' Hall ; the old street front has been taken down, 
 and replaced by an elegant stone faQade. 
 
 The handsome stone-fronted house, No. 73, built by Sir C. Wren, was, before the 
 erection of the Mansion House (1737), sometimes tenanted by the Lord Mayor, during 
 his year of office : here Mr. Tegg, the publisher, amassed a large fortune ; he restored 
 the house front, which has since been considerably altered. Nearly opposite, between 
 Ironmonger-lane and King-street, is the Atlas Insurance Office, with three enriched 
 fronts, granite basement, and stone superstructure : built in 1839. 
 
 The house-front, No. 39, has the sign-stone of the noted Nag's Head tavern, which 
 stood at the east end of Friday-street. 
 
 CHELSEA, 
 
 A LARGE and populous parish upon the north bank of the Thames: it was a 
 village of three hundred houses in the last century, but now extends from beyond 
 Battersea or Chelsea Bridge almost to Hyde Park Corner. It lies about fifteen feet 
 above the river ; and, according to Norden, is named from its strand, " like the chesel 
 (ceosel or cesel) which the sea casteth up of sand and pebble-stones, thereof called 
 Clieselsey, briefly Chelsey, as is Chelsey (Selsey) in Sussex." In a Saxon charter, how- 
 ever, it is written Cealchylle ; in Domesday, Cerechede and Chalced ; and Sir Thomas 
 More wrote it Chelchith, though it began to be written Chelsey in the sixteenth 
 century. The Rev. J. Blunt derives the name from Cealc, chalk, and Hyd, or Hythe, 
 a harbour, adding that this Hythe was used for landing chalk, and so had given a 
 name to the place. It was at Chelsea that two important councils were held under 
 Offa, King of Mercia. Among the possessors of the manor were Sir Reginald Bray 
 (temp. Henry VII.) ; it was given by Henry VIII. to Katherine Parr as a portion of 
 her marriage settlement ; here she lived with her second husband, Thomas Seymour, 
 the Lord Admiral, afterwards beheaded ; and here, in the same house with them, lived 
 Queen Elizabeth, when a girl of thirteen. The manor was bought of Lord Cheyne by 
 Sir Hans Sloane in 1712, from whom it passed by marriage and bequest to Baron 
 Cadogan of Oakley, in whose family the property remains : hence the names of Cheyne 
 Walk, Cadogan and Hans Places, and Sloane and Oakley Streets.
 
 90 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 At Chelsea lived Sir Thomas More, in a mansion at the north end of Beaufort-row, with gardens 
 extending to the Thames. Here More was visited by Henry VIII., who, " after dinner, in a fair garden 
 of his, walked with him by the space of an hour, holding his arm about his neck ;" and used to ascend 
 with him to the house-top to observe the stars and discourse of astronomy. A more illustrious visitor 
 was Erasmus, who describes the house as " a practical school of the Christian religion." Holbein worked 
 here for near three years, upon portraits of the Chancellor, his relations, and friends. More also hired 
 a house for aged people in Chelsea, whom he daily relieved. His own establishment was large : Erasmus 
 says, " there he converseth with his wife, his son, his daughters-in-law, his three granddaughters with 
 their husbands, with eleven great-grandchildren." More resigned the Great Seal in 1533, and retired 
 to Chelsea for study and devotion ; but dismissed his retinue, and gave his barge to his successor in the 
 Chancellorship. More's mansion was purchased by Sir Hans Sloane, and taken down in 1740. 
 
 Sloane dwelt in the New Manor-House, nearly opposite the site of the present Pier. 
 The grounds of More's house were extensive, and the porter's lodge became the Clock- 
 house and Herb-distillery, in the King's-road. 
 
 After the death of Katherine Parr the Duke of Somerset obtained a grant of the manor and palace of 
 
 ' On the attainder and death of Somerset, 
 
 , , . 
 
 Lords Cheyne then became Lords of the Manor, whence the ground on which stood the Queen's palace 
 and the palace of the Bishop of Winchester, from Morley in 1633 to North in 1820. Further west, 
 near the river side, was the Chelsea China Manufactory. 
 
 , . 
 
 Lady Llanover, in her piquant notes to the Autobiography, $c. of Mrs. Delany, thus notices 
 Elacklands in the Marlborough-road, Chelsea, formerly called Blacklands-lane. " Bowaek, in his Anti- 
 quities of Middlesex (1700), says : William Lord Cheyne, Viscount Newhaven in Scotland, has two 
 good seats in Chelsea. The first is the mansion-house, where Queen Elizabeth was nursed, east end 
 of the town, near the Thames. The other some distance north of the town, called Blacklands 
 House, both (1705) let to French boarding-schools." It adjoins the old manor-house at Chelsea, 
 which forms part of the premises of Messrs. Scott and Cuthbertson (paper manufacturers), called 
 Whitclands. Blacklands has still a good garden and old iron gates ; and the centre of the house is 
 evidently part of the original structure. 
 
 The beautiful Duchess of Mazarin (niece of the Cardinal) died in difficulties, in 1699, 
 in a small house which she rented of Lord Cheyne. Lysons had heard that it was 
 usual for the nobility and others who dined at her house to leave money under their 
 plates to pay for their entertainment ; she appears to have been in arrears for the 
 parish-rates, during the whole time of her residence at Chelsea. 
 
 Here too was Lindsey House, the residence of the Berties, Earls of Lindsey, now 
 the site of Lindsey -row ; Danvers House, where lived Sir John Danvers, the site is now 
 Danvers-street. Here were also Essex House, and Shrewsbury or Alstoiie House ; Lau- 
 rence-street is named from Sir John Laurence (temp. Charles I.) and his descendants. 
 
 In Cheyne-walk was the Museum and Coffee-house of Don Saltero, renowned in the 
 swimming exploits of Dr. Franklin. The landlord, James Salter, was a noted barber, 
 who made a collection of natural curiosities which acquired him the name (probably 
 first given him by Steele) of Don Saltero. (See Tatter, Nos. 34, 195, and 226.) The 
 tavern was taken down in 1866, but the Museum was dispersed about 1807. In a 
 large meanly-furnished house in Cheyne-walk, died August 30, 1852, John Camden 
 Neild, who bequeathed 500,OOOZ. to Queen Victoria. The old Chelsea Bun-house pos- 
 sessed a sort of rival Museum to Don Saltero's. It was taken down in 1839. Eastward 
 is the Royal Hospital; and on part of its garden was the gay Ranelagh, from 1740 
 to 1815. Here, too, are the Apothecaries' Company's Gardens ; one of the fine old 
 cedar trees was blown down in 1854. Nearly opposite was the Red House at Battersea, 
 fifty yards west of which Caesar is believed by some antiquaries to have forded the Thames. 
 
 Chelsea has two churches dedicated to St. Luke. The old river-side church was 
 built in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, and has an eastern chapel added by 
 Sir Thomas More. In the chancel is a black marble tablet to More, placed there by 
 himself in 1532, three years before his death : it was restored by Sir John Lawrence 
 about 1644, and by subscription in 1833 : the inscription, in Latin, is by More. Here 
 are also memorials of Jane, wife of the ambitious John Dudley, Duke of North- 
 umberland ; and of Lady Jane Cheyne, by Bernini. In the churchyard is the tomb of 
 Sir Hans Sloane, egg-shaped and entwined with serpents ; also monuments to Philip 
 Miller, the writer on gardening ; and Cipriani the painter. 
 
 St. Luke's new church, between King's-road and Fulham -road, was built by Savage, 
 in 1820, in the style of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, and has a pinnacled 
 tower 142 feet high.
 
 CHELSEA SUNS. 91 
 
 Above Battersea Bridge was Cremorne House, formerly the elegant villa of Lord 
 Cremorne, who had here a fine collection of Italian and Flemish pictures ; adjoining was 
 the residence of Dr. Benjamin Hoadly (son of the hishop), the author of The Suspicious 
 Husband. Cremorne has been converted into a place of public entertainment, for 
 which the grounds are well adapted. 
 
 Chelsea was once a place of courtly resort : many of the nobility, as well as scholars 
 and philosophers, resided here ; and its noted taverns and public gardens were much 
 frequented in the 17th and 18th centuries. The principal features now are its palace- 
 Hospital for soldiers, its Botanic Gardens, its Dutch-like river terrace (Cheyne-walk), 
 mostly brick-built, and fronted by lofty trees ; and its olden church, with a brick tower. 
 
 In a river-side cottage, beyond the church, upon the road to Cremorne Gardens, J. M. W. Turner, 
 the great landscape-painter, ended his days, having shut up his house in Queen Anne-street. His 
 fondness for Thames scenery was great : he fell sick at Chelsea, at the close of 1851, but was daily 
 wheeled in a chair to the window of his room, that he might look on the calm December sunshine, the 
 river, and its craft. From a sort of gallery upon the house-top the great painter enjoyed the river 
 traffic, and watched those beautiful atmospheric changes which Turner could so ably transfer to 
 canvas. Here, in these cheap Chelsea lodgings, Turner, under the assumed name of " Admiral Booth," 
 tveiit to his rest, on the 19th of December, 1851. 
 
 In the hamlet of Little Chelsea lived Bulstrode Whitelock ; Mr. Pym, member of 
 the Long Parliament ; Bishop Fowler, Sir Eichard Steele, Addison, and John Locke j 
 Lord Shaftesbury, author of the Characteristics, in the house now St. George's 
 additional workhouse ; and here Tobias Smollett retired after his failure in practice at 
 Bath. Dean Swift had lodgings " a little beyond the church ;" and Sir Robert Wai- 
 pole had a house adjoining Gough House ; hence, Walpole-street. 
 
 The Five Fields, Chelsea, are commemorated by Steele in the Tatter ; and at the 
 Willow Walk, Jerry Abershaw (that other Johnny Armstrong) had his secluded 
 house, in the midst of " cuts," or reservoirs of water. In the King's-road, on the 
 spot where is now the West London Literary and Scientific Institution, the Earl 
 of Peterborough was stopped by highwaymen, in what was then a narrow lane ; and 
 the robbers, being watched by the soldiers on guard at the gate of the Chelsea College, 
 were fired at from behind the hedge. One of the highwaymen was a student in the 
 Temple, named Brown, whom Mr. Vernon, the Secretary of State, in a letter to the 
 Duke of Shrewsbury, says, " a friend of his (Sir John Talbot) knew well ; and 
 his father, losing his estate, Mr. Brown lived by play, sharping, and a little on the 
 highway." 
 
 Numerous signs at Chelsea have military associations : as " The Snow Shoes," 
 a recollection of Wolfe's glorious campaign; "The General Elliot;" and "The Duke 
 of York;" and "Nell Gywnne" from association with Chelsea Hospital. 
 
 Chelsea Water-works were originally constructed in 1724 ; a print of the Works was 
 published by Boydell, in the year 1756. 
 
 CHELSEA SUNS. 
 
 /CHELSEA has been famed for its Buns since the commencement of the last century. 
 v^ Swift, in his Journal to Stella, 1712, writes : " Pray are not the fine buns sold 
 here in our town, as the rare Chelsea buns ? I bought one to-day in my walk," &c. 
 They were made and sold at " the Old Original Chelsea Bun-house," in Jews'-row, a 
 one-storied building, with a colonnade projecting over the foot-pavement. It was 
 customary for the Royal Family and the nobility and gentry to visit the Bun-house in 
 the morning. George II., Queen Caroline, and the Princesses frequently honoured the 
 proprietor, Richard Hand, with their company ; as did also George III. and Queen 
 Charlotte ; her Majesty presented Mrs. Hand with a silver half-gallon mug, and five 
 guineas in it. On Good Friday morning upwards of 50,000 persons were assembled 
 here, when disturbances often arose among the London mob ; in one day more 
 than 250/. have been taken for buns. The Bun-house was also much frequented by 
 visitors to Ranelagh, after the closing of which the bun-trade declined. Notwith- 
 standing, on Good Friday, April 18, 1839, upwards of 240,000 buns were sold here. 
 Soon after, the Bun-house was sold and pulled down ; and at the same time was dis- 
 persed a collection of pictures, models, grotesque figures, and modern antiques, which 
 had for a century added the attractions of a museum to the bun celebrity. Another
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 bun-house was built ; but the olden charm of the place had fled. In the Mirror 
 for April G, 1839, are two views of the old Bun- house, sketched just before its 
 demolition. Here is a glance at the sale of the curiosities : 
 
 There were two leaden figures of Grenadiers, about three feet high, in the dress of 1745, presenting 
 arms, which sold for 4i. 10*. An equestrian plaster figure of William Duke of Cumberland, with other 
 plaster casts, 21. 2s. A whole length painting of " Aurengzebe, Emperor of Persia," 41. 4*. A large 
 old painting, an interior, with the King and Queen seated, and perhaps the baker, &c., 21. Ws. A 
 model of the Bun-house, with painted masquerade figures on two circles, turned round by a bird 
 whilst on its perch in a cage at the back of the model, 19. A large model in cut paper, called St. 
 Mary Ratcliff Church, sold with its glazed case for 21. 2s. A framed picture, worked by a string, re- 
 called the exploits of the Bottle Conjuror. After the death of Mrs. Hand the business was carried 
 on by her son, an eccentric character, who dealt also largely in butter, which he carried round to 
 his customers in a basket on his head. Upon his death his elder brother came into possession ; 
 he had been an officer in the Stafford Militia, was one of the Poor Knights of Windsor, and not much 
 less eccentric than his brother. It is not known that he left any relations, and his property, it is said, 
 reverted to the Crown. 
 
 There is a folio-print, engraved in the reign of George II.; under it, "A perspective view of David 
 Loudon's (probably the owner before Hand) Bunn House at Chelsey, who has the honour to serve 
 the Royal Family. 52 by 21 ft." Over the print, in the centre, is the Royal Arms. On each side 
 stands a grenadier, three figures of Freemasons, with Masonic emblems ; and on the left hand is a coat 
 of arms. These arms are reversed, as if copied on the copper immediately from a piece of silver plate. 
 Below them is a motto (not reversed), "For God, my King, and Country." It is not impossible that 
 these were the arms of some respectable family, whose servant David London had been. 
 
 [40 Chelsea Bun-house has given name to one of Miss Manning's clever novels, pub- 
 lished in 1854. 
 
 CHELSEA HOSPITAL 
 
 OCCUPIES the site of " Chelsea College," commenced by Dr. Sutcliffe, Dean of 
 " Exeter, in the reign of James I., but only in part built. Its object was to main- 
 tain fellows in holy orders, " to answer all the adversaries of religion," and others to 
 write the history of their own times. It was nicknamed " Controversy College " by 
 Archbishop Laud; the whole scheme and its originator were mercilessly ridiculed by 
 the wits of the day, and thus failed. It was given by Charles II. to the then newly- 
 established Royal Society, who, in 1681-82, sold the property to Sir Stephen Fox for 
 1300Z., as a site for a Royal Hospital for aged and disabled soldiers, the building of 
 which has been attributed to the influence of Nell Gwynne, which tradition is kept 
 in countenance by the head of Nell Gwynne having been for very many years the 
 sign of a public-house in Grosvenor-row, Pimlico. But more than one entry in 
 Evelyn's Diary proves, that Sir Stephen Fox " had not only the whole managing " of the 
 plan, but was himself " a grand benefactor " to it. He was mainly advised by Evelyn, 
 who arranged the offices, "would needes have a library, and mentioned several 
 bookes." Here are a few other evidences : 
 
 The idea, it is said, originated with Nelly, and I see no reason to doubt the tradition, supported, as 
 it is, by the known benevolence of her character, her sympathy with the suffering, and the fact that 
 sixty years ago at least Nelly's share in its foundation was recorded beneath her portrait serving as 
 the sign of a public-house adjoining the Hospital. (Lysons.) The sign remains, but not the inscrip- 
 tion ; yet the tradition is still rife in Chelsea, and is not soon likely to die out. Ormonds, and Granbys, 
 and Admiral Vernons disappear, but Nelly remains, and long may she swing with her favourite lamb 
 in the row or street commemorated for ever in the Chelsea Pensioners of Wilkie ( Peter Cunningham's 
 Story of Nell Oicynne, 1852, p. 146.) Nell's residence at Sandy End is doubted; but it is certain that 
 her mother lived near the Neate House, in Pimlico. In the records of Knightsbridge Chapel, 
 Jan. 13, 1667, is the marriage of Robert Hand and Mary Gwin, thus connecting Nelly's family with the 
 Chelsea Bun-house. 
 
 Sir Christopher Wren was appointed architect of the Hospital ; and the foundation 
 stone was laid, Feb. 16, 1682, by Charles II., who promised to provide the funds, and 
 was assisted by public subscription. The progress of the building is recorded in this 
 inscription on the southern front : 
 
 " In subsidium et levamen emeritorum venio, belloque fractorum, condidit Carolus Secundus, auxil. 
 Jacobus Secundus, perfecere Gulielmus et Maria, Bex et Regina, MDCXC." 
 
 The building, which cost 150,0002., is of red brick, with stone quoins, cornices, pedi- 
 ments, and columns, and is remarkable for its harmonious proportions. It consists of 
 three courts, two of which are spacious quadrangles ; the third, the central one, is 
 open on the south side, next the Thames ; and in the area is a statue of Charles II., 
 in Roman imperial armour, sculptured by Gibbons, for Tobias Rustat. In the eastern 
 and western wings of this court are the wards of the Pensioners. At the extremity of
 
 CHELSEA HOSPITAL. 93 
 
 the eastern wing is the Governor's house, with a state apartment ; and portraits of 
 Charles I., his queen, and two sons Charles, Prince of Wales, and James, Duke of 
 York; Charles II., William III., and George III. and Queen Charlotte. The north 
 front is of great extent, and faced by avenues of limes and horse-chestnuts. In the 
 centre is a tetrastyle Roman- Doric portico, surmounted hy a handsome lofty clock- 
 turret in the roof. 
 
 Beneath are the principal entrances. To the right is the chapel, the furniture and 
 plate of which were given by James II., and the organ by Major Ingram; the altar- 
 piece has a painting of the Ascension, by Sebastian Ricci. In the left wing is the Hall, 
 wherein the Pensioners dine : here is an equestrian portrait of Charles II., by Verrio 
 and H. Cooke ; and an allegorical picture of the victories of the Duke of Wellington, 
 by James Ward, R.A. Both the Hall and Chapel are paved with black and white 
 marble : in each are suspended colours captured by the British army ; in the chapel 
 are thirteen eagles taken from Xapoleon I. : and in the Hall fragments of the standards 
 captured at Blenheim ; in addition are dragon Chinese banners, and the trophies of 
 the Sikh campaign of 1840. 
 
 In the Hall the remains of the great Duke of Wellington lay in state, Nov. 11-17, 1852. The Vesti- 
 bule, Hall, and Chapel were hung with black drapery. On a dais in the Hall, upon a cloth-of-gold 
 carpet, and black velvet bier, was placed the coffin, crimson and gold; above the bier were sus- 
 pended stars and orders, " in numbers and importance far surpassing anything of the kind ever 
 possessed by a single individual." The whole bier was surrounded with a silver balustrade adorned 
 with heraldic devices, and the Marshal's eight batons, and the Duke's standard and guidon; and 
 attached to all, gold lion supporters, two feet high, bearing shields and banners. At the back of 
 the bier was her Majesty's escutcheon, surrounded by the Wellington bannerols, upon a cloth-of- 
 gold hanging, surmounted by a magnificent canopy, with a plume of feathers the curtains being of 
 black velvet, with linings, cornice, and fringes of silver, and draped in graceful festoons. The Hall 
 was lighted with wax-tapers, and the dais with twelve magnificent silver candelabra, each with five 
 wax-lights ; here were also ten columns of spears, feathers, laurel, and escutcheons, lighted by gas. 
 Along the side walls stood picked soldiers of the Grenadier Guards, their arms reversed ; around 
 the catafalque, Yeomen of the Guard, and seated mourners; and the chair of the chief mourner 
 concealed at the head of the coffin. The whole was designed by Mr. Cockerell, the architect. Two 
 persons died, aud several were seriously hurt by the pressure of the vast crowd of spectators. 
 
 The old soldiers receive pensions from funds voted by Parliament : in 1850 there 
 were nearly 70, 000 out- pensioners, who received 6d.,9d., and 1*. per diem ; therewere 539 
 in-pensioners, who were well clothed and fed in the Hospital, and were allowed Id. a day 
 for tobacco, which is called " her Majesty's bounty." They wear long scarlet coats, 
 lined with blue, and the original three-cornered cocked hats of the last century : undress, 
 a foraging cap, inscribed R.H. Their ages vary from 60 to 90 years, and two veterans 
 had in 1850 attained the age of 104. The annual rate of mortality among the Pen- 
 sioners is 27 per cent. 
 
 Adjoining the Hospital is a burial-ground for Pensioners, wherein are the following 
 data: William Hisland, died 1732, aged 112 he married when upwards of 100 years 
 old ; Thomas Asbey, died 1737, aged 112 ; Captain Laurence, died 1865, aged 95 ; Robert 
 Comming, died 1767, aged 115 ; Peter Dowling, 1768, aged 102; a Soldier who fought 
 at the battle of the Boyne, 1772, aged 111 ; Peter Bennet, of Tinmouth, died 1773, 
 aged 107. 
 
 In 1739 was interred here Christian Davis, alias Mother Ross, who had served in 
 campaigns under William III. and the Duke of Maryborough, and whose third husband 
 was a Pensioner in the Hospital. 
 
 The Hospital Gardens are, in a measure, open to the public, but are little frequented. 
 The river terrace is bordered with dwarf limes, and there are besides some fine shady 
 trees. " The Old Men's Gardens " have been cleared away. 
 
 North of the Hospital is the Royal Military Asylum, for the support and education 
 of the children of soldiers and non-commissioned officers : the first stone of the building 
 was laid by the Duke of York, in 1801. The Hospital and Asylum may be seen 
 daily, from 10 till 4 : the boys parade on Fridays. 
 
 Eastward of the Hospital was the famous RANELAGH, which see. Upon part of the 
 site was built a large house, with a portion of the materials of Ranelagh : it had a 
 large Queen Anne staircase : this house was taken down in 1854, in forming the road A ^ 
 to the new Chelsea Bridge.
 
 94 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 CHELSEA PORCELAIN. 
 
 THE earliest manufactories of porcelain in England were those at Bow* and 
 Chelsea, both which have long been extinct. " The Chelsea ware, bearing a very 
 imperfect similarity in body to the Chinese, admitted only of a very fusible lead glaze ; 
 and in the taste of its patterns, and the style of their execution, stood as low, perhaps, 
 as any on the list." (A. Aikin ; Trans. Soc. Arts.) This character, however, applies 
 only to the later productions. The period of the greatest excellence of the Chelsea 
 porcelain was between 1750 and 1763 ; and there was so much demand for it, that 
 dealers are described as surrounding the doors of the works, and purchasing the pieces 
 at large prices, as soon as they were fired. 
 
 Faulkner, in his History of Chelsea, (1829,) states : " The Chelsea China Manufac- 
 tory was situate at the corner of Justice-walk, and occupied the houses to the upper 
 end of the street. Several of the large old houses were used as show-rooms. It lias 
 been discontinued for more than forty years, the whole of the premises pulled down, 
 and new houses erected on the site." 
 
 Justice-walk took its name from a magistrate who resided in the house at the south 
 corner of Church-street, whence formerly an avenue of lime-trees extended to Lawrence- 
 street ; and in the latter were the ovens of the Chelsea China Manufactory, where Dr. 
 Johnson made experiments on tea-cups. 
 
 Johnson had conceived the idea that he was possessed of a peculiar "secret for making porcelain; 
 he obtained permission to have his compositions baked in the ovens at Chelsea, and here he watched 
 them day by day. He was not allowed to enter the mixing-room, but had free access to all other parts 
 of the manufactory, and roughly modelled his composition in a room by himself. He failed in all his 
 trials, for none of the articles he formed would bear the heat of firing. He at last gave up his attempts 
 in disgust. He always conceived that one simple ingredient was sufficient to form the body of porcelain ; 
 whereas Stephens, who managed the manufactory, declared to him that hi the composition of the 
 Chelsea paste no less than sixteen different substances were blended together. 
 
 " The premises were not far distant from Church -street, and near the water-side. 
 They subsequently became a stained paper manufactory, conducted by Messrs. Echardts 
 and Woodmason, in 1786; afterwards by Messrs. Bowen and Co.; and in 1810 by 
 Messrs. Harwood and Co." (T. Crofton CroJcer, F.S^4..) The works were discontinued 
 in 1764, and the manufacture was then removed to Derby, and the ware was called 
 Chelsea-Derby : it has the mark of a D crossed by an anchor ; it is very beautiful, 
 but as dear as silver. 
 
 In July, 1850, we saw in the stock of Mr. Heigham, Fulham-road, a set of three 
 Chelsea vases, remarkably fine in form and colour ; each bearing a view of the old 
 church at Chelsea and the china-manufactory. 
 
 " Martin Lister mentions a manufacture at Chelsea as early as 1698, comparing its productions with 
 those of St. Cloud, near Paris. It was patronized by George II., who brought over artificers from 
 Brunswick and Saxony ; whence, probably, M. Brongniart terms Chelsea a ' Manufacture Koyale.' Its 
 reputation commenced about 1740 ; and in 1745 the celebrity of Chelsea porcelain was regarded with 
 jealousy by the manufacturers of France, who therefore petitioned Louis XV. to concede to them 
 exclusive privileges. About 1750, it was under the direction of M. Spremont, a foreigner. The pro- 
 ductions of the Chelsea furnaces were thought worthy to vie with those of the celebrated manufactories 
 of Germany. Walpole, in his correspondence with Sir Horace Mann, mentions a service of Chelsea 
 porcelain sent by the King and Queen to the Duke of Mecklenburg, which cost 1200J. The Duke of 
 Cumberland took much interest in promoting the success of this interesting manufacture. The mark 
 is an Anchor, in gold, burnished on the best specimens, and red on the inferior." Former's Kotet to the 
 Stowe Catalogue, 1848. 
 
 At Stowe, in 1848, the finest specimen " of rare old Chelsea-china " sold was a pair 
 of small vases, painted with Roman triumphs, 23Z. 10*. Few specimens of Chelsea 
 ware were sold at Strawberry Hill, in 1842. At the sale of Sir John Macdonald's col- 
 lection, in 1850, a pair of Chelsea cups and saucers, painted with birds, brought SGI. 15s. 
 
 In 1854, some tine examples of Chelsea porcelain were exhibited in the Crystal 
 Palace, Sydenham. There was a Chelsea tea-pot which had belonged to Dr. Johnson. 
 
 In the Bernal Collection, sold in March, 1855, a pair of Scalloped Chelsea Vases, 
 painted with birds, brought 110Z. 5s. ; a pair of oval dishes, 13Z. 13*. ; a two-handled 
 cup and saucer, 211. ; and an ecuelle, very delicately painted with flowers, 27Z. 6*. 
 
 * Bow China, formerly made at Stratford-le-Bow, is always marked with a crescent, or bou- : it much 
 resembles in quality the old Worcester or Derby, and is mostly of blue pattern j it is scarce, but never 
 fine.
 
 CUEISTS HOSPITAL. 95 
 
 CHESS CLUBS. 
 
 IN 1747, the principal, if not the only Chess Club in the metropolis met at Slaughter's 
 Coffee-house, St. Martin's-lane. The leading players of this Club were Sir 
 Abraham Jannsen, Philip Stamma (from Aleppo), Lord Godolphin, Lord Sunderland, 
 and Lord Elibank ; Cunningham, the historian ; Dr. Black and Dr. Cowper ; and 
 it was through their invitation that the celebrated Philidor was induced to visit 
 England. 
 
 Another Club was shortly afterwards founded at the Salopian Coffee-house, Charing 
 Cross : and a few years later, a third, which met next door to the Thatched House 
 Tavern, in St. James's- street. It was here that Philidor exhibited his wonderful 
 faculty for playing blindfold ; some instances of which we find in the newspapers of 
 the period : 
 
 " Yesterday, at the Chess Club in St. James's-street, Monsieur Philidor performed one of those 
 wonderful exhibitions for which he is so much celebrated. He played three different games at once with- 
 out seeing either of the tables. His opponents were Count Bruhl and Mr. Bowdler (the two best 
 players in London), and Mr. Maseres. He defeated Count Bruhl in one hour and twenty minutes, and 
 Mr. Maseres in two hours ; Mr. Bowdler reduced his games to a drawn battle in one hour and three- 
 quarters. To those who understand Chess, this exertion of M. Pliilidor's abilities must appear one of 
 the greatest of which the human memory is susceptible. He goes through it with astonishing accuracy, 
 and often corrects mistakes in those who have the board before them." 
 
 In 1795, the veteran, then nearly seventy years of age, played three blindfold 
 matches in public. The last of these, which came off shortly before his death, we find 
 announced in the daily newspapers thus : 
 
 " CHESS CLUB, 1795. PAKSLOE'S ST. JAMES'S STBZET. 
 
 By particular desire, Mons. Philidor, positively for the last time, will play on Saturday, the 20th of June, 
 at two o'clock precisely, three games at once against three good players ; two of them without seeing 
 either of the boards, and the third looking over the table. He most respectfully invites all the members 
 of the Chess Club to honour him with their presence. Ladies and gentlemen not belonging to the 
 Club may be provided with tickets at the above-mentioned house, to see the match, at five shillings each." 
 
 Upon the death of Philidor, the Chess Clubs at the West-end seem to have de- 
 clined ; and in 1807, the stronghold and rallying point for the lovers of the game was 
 " the London Chess Club," which was established in the City, and for many years held 
 its meetings at Tom's Coffee-house, in Cornhill. To this Club we are indebted for 
 many of the finest chess-players of the age ; and after the lapse of nearly a century, 
 the Club still nourished, and numbered among its members some of the leading 
 proficients. 
 
 About the year 1833, a Club was founded by a few amateurs in Bedford-street, 
 Covent Garden. This establishment, which obtained remarkable celebrity as the arena 
 of the famous contests between La Bourdonnais and M'Donnell, was dissolved in 1840 ; 
 but shortly afterwards, through the exertions of Mr. Staunton, was re-formed under 
 the name of "the St. George's Club," in Cavendish-square, since removed to 20, 
 King-street, S.W. 
 
 In addition to the above, and the London Chess Club, which held its meetings at the 
 George and Vulture Tavern, Cornhill, there are many minor institutions in various 
 parts of the metropolis and its environs, where Chess, and Chess only, forms the staplo 
 recreation of the members. There are also the magnificent Cigar Divan, No. 100, 
 Strand, belonging to Mr. Ries ; and Kilpack's well-appointed Divan, 42, King-street, 
 Covent Garden ; at each of which the leading Chess publications are accessible to 
 visitors, and where as many as twenty Chess-boards may often be seen in requisition at 
 the same time. 
 
 CHEISTS HOSPITAL. 
 
 WE owe the foundation of this, " the noblest institution in the world," to the ex- 
 ertions of the City of London to provide for a large houseless population, in 
 which good work the citizens were greatly assisted by grants from King Henry VIII. 
 It was long customary to designate King Edward VI. as its special founder ,- but his- 
 torical records show that King Edward had little to do with the foundation of Christ's
 
 96 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Hospital : both the house itself, and the revenues for its support, came from his pre- 
 decessor, or were raised by the bounty of the citizens themselves ; the young King 
 Edward bestowed upon the Hospital its name, and conferred upon it certain grants for 
 its support, in connexion with the hospital of Bridewell, which the King had founded ; 
 and St. Thomas's which the citizens themselves had purchased. The story runs, that 
 the King's attention was directed to this foundation by a sennon preached before him 
 by Bishop Ridley, in the year 1552 j and that in consequence, the King sent by the 
 Bishop a letter to the Mayor, " declaring his special commandment, that the Mayor 
 should travail therein," which are the words of the old chronicler Grafton. But this 
 was not until after the citizens had done what they could, and found that they re- 
 quired certain aid from the Crown. Bishop Ridley himself, in his farewell letter to 
 his friends, written shortly before his martyrdom, attributed the chief merit to the 
 City magistrates ; first to Sir Richard Dobbs, in whose mayoralty the renewed effort 
 was made ; and next to his successor, Sir George Barnes. 
 
 When the Grey Friars came to London in the thirteenth century, they established 
 themselves on the north side of what we now call Newgate-street. Here, aided by the 
 citizens, they built first a chapel, then a church, and then again a much larger church, 
 the latter between 1301 and 1327. In 1539 they surrendered to King Henry VIII., 
 in whose hands the house remained for some time. Just before his death, he provided 
 that the church of the Grey Friars should become the parish church of " Christ's 
 Church within Newgate." 
 
 It appears that Christ's Hospital was not originally founded as a school ; its object 
 was to rescue young children from the streets, to shelter, feed, clothe, and lastly to 
 educate them. The citizens had already received from the King the monastery of the 
 Grey Friars ; and from its new parish church came the name of " Christ's Hospital." 
 When the citizens had collected sufficient funds, they repaired the Grey Friars build- 
 ings, and on the 23rd of November, 1552, the poor children were received to the 
 number of almost four hundred. When the Lord Mayor and Aldermen rode to 
 St. Paul's on the following Christmas-day, all the children stood in array " from St. 
 Laurence-lane-in-Cheap towards Paul's," attired in a livery or dress of russet cotton, 
 the boys with red caps, and the girls with kerchiefs on their heads, having a woman 
 keeper between every twenty children; and accompanied also by the physician and 
 four surgeons, and the masters of the Hospital. 
 
 At the following Easter, the boys and " mayden children" were in rt plonket," or 
 blue ; hence Christ's Hospital also became called the Blue Coat School. It has been 
 imagined that the coat was the mantle, and the yellow, as it is technically termed, the 
 sleeveless tunic of the monastery ; the leathern girdle also corresponding with the 
 hempen cord of the friar. There is an old tradition among the boys that the dress 
 was originally of velvet, fastened with silver buttons, and an exact fac-simile of the 
 ordinary habit of King Edward VI. 
 
 It is most reasonable to regard the dress as copied from the costume of the citizens 
 of London at this period (1552), when long blue coats were the common habit of 
 apprentices and serving-men, and yellow stockings were generally worn [the School is 
 vulgarly called " the Yellow Stocking School ] ; the coat tits closely to the body, but has 
 loose sleeves, and beneath is worn a sleeveless yellow under-coat ; around the waist is 
 a red leathern girdle ; a clerical band round the neck, and a small flat black cap about 
 the size of a saucer, complete the costume. 
 
 While the citizens were perfecting the good work, King Edward was seized with 
 small-pox, from the effects of which he never recovered. When, however, the scheme 
 for the endowment of the Royal Hospitals was placed before the pious prince, and 
 according to the usual practice, a blank had been left for the amount of property which 
 the City were to receive for this object, Edward, with his own hand, wrote in the sum, 
 ' four thousand marks by the year ;" and then exclaimed, in the hearing of his Council, 
 " Lord, I yield Thee most hearty thanks that Thou hast given me life thus long, to 
 finish this work, to the glory of Thy name !" 
 
 Among the early bequests is the following : When the Hospital was erected 
 and put into good order, there was one Richard Castel, alias Casteller, shoemaker, 
 dwelling in Westminster, a man who WHS called " the Cock of Westminster," because
 
 CHRIST'S HOSPITAL. 97 
 
 both winter and summer he was at work by four o'clock in the morning. This man, 
 thus steadily and honestly labouring for his living, purchased lands and tenements 
 at Westminster, worth 44Z. per annum ; and having no child, with the consent of his 
 wife, who survived him, gave the same lands wholly to Christ's Hospital, and for the 
 " succour of the miserable sore and sick harboured in other hospitals about London." 
 
 The ancient Hospital buildings suffered materially in the Great Fire of 1666, when 
 the church of the monastery was entirely destroyed. The Hospital was rebuilt by the 
 Governors, anticipating its revenue from the endowment of the King, and other 
 sources. The Great Hall was rebuilt by Alderman Sir John Frederick, at a cost of 
 50001. The first important addition to the foundation, after the Fire, was the 
 Mathematical School, founded by Charles II. 1672, for forty boys, to be instructed in 
 navigation : they are called " King's boys," and wear a badge on the right shoulder 
 Lest this mathematical school should fail for want of boys properly qualified to supply 
 it, one Mr. Stone, a governor, left a legacy to maintain a subordinate Mathematical 
 School of twelve boys (" the Twelves"), who wear a badge on the left shoulder ; and to 
 these have been added " the Twos." 
 
 The Mathematical School was originally designed by Samuel Pepys, then Secretary 
 to the Admiralty. There is preserved a collection of letters between Pepys and 
 Major Aungier, Sir Isaac Newton, Halley, and other persons, relating to the manage- 
 ment of the Mathematical School ; and containing details of the career of some of the 
 King's scholars after leaving school. The letters extend from 1692 to 1695, and are 
 the original letters received by Pepys, with his drafts of the answers. (Notes and 
 Queries, No. 227.) Pepys, it appears, printed and handed about privately, some 
 letters about the abuses of Christ's Hospital ; he certainly saved from ruin the Mathe- 
 matical foundation. This was the first considerable extension of the system of educa- 
 tion at the Hospital, which originally consisted of a grammar school for boys, and a 
 separate school for girls ; the latter being taught to read, sew, and mark. Pepys 
 relates the following curious story of a Blue-coat girl : 
 
 " Two wealthy citizens are lately dead, and left their estates, one to a little Blue-coat boy, and the 
 other to a Blue-coat girl, in Christ's Hospital. The extraordinariness of which has led some of the 
 magistrates to carry it on to a match, which is ended in a public wedding he in his habit of blue satin, 
 led by two of the girls, and she in blue with an apron green, and petticoat yellow, all of sarsnet, led by 
 two of the boys of the house, through Cheapside to Guildhall Chapel, where they were married by the 
 Dean of St. Paul's, she given by my Lord Mayor. The wedding dinner, it seems, was kept in the Hos- 
 pital halL" Pepys to Mrt. Steward, Sept. 20, 1695. 
 
 The East Cloister and South front were next (in 1675) rebuilt by Sir Robert 
 Clayton, alderman, and cost him about 7000Z. ; but it was not known who was the 
 benefactor until the whole was finished. The Writing School was built by Sir Chris- 
 topher Wren, in 1694, at the expense of 50001. to Sir John Moore, of whom a marble 
 statue is placed in the front : this school is situated on the west side of the play- 
 ground, and is supported on cloisters, which shelter the boys in bad weather ; the ward 
 over the east side cloister was rebuilt in 1705, by Sir Francis Child the banker ; and 
 in 1795 was erected the Grammar School. Some of the buildings of the ancient 
 monastery were standing early in the present century, but they had become ruinous 
 and unsafe ; and in 1803 was commenced a fund for rebuilding the whole, the Cor- 
 poration of London granting 5000L, and many private benefactions being made. The 
 refectory of the monastery originally served as the dining-hall of the Hospital : after 
 the Great Fire, the hall was rebuilt ; this was taken down, and partly upon its site, and 
 partly on the ancient City wall, was erected a vast edifice in the Tudor style by John 
 Shaw, F.R.S., F.S.A., architect ; the first stone laid by the Duke of York, April 25, 
 1825. The back wall stands on the site of the ditch that anciently surrounded London, 
 and is built on piles driven twenty feet deep ; in excavating for the foundation there 
 were found some Roman arms and coins, and some curious leathern sandals. The 
 southern or principal front, facing Newgate-street, is supported by buttresses and has 
 an octagonal tower at each extremity ; and the summit is embattled and pin- 
 nacled. On the ground story is an arcade open to the play-ground; here also are 
 the Governors' meeting-room, and the Hospital wardrobe ; and in the basement are 
 the vast kitchen, 67 feet by 33 feet ; and butteries and cellars. In the rear of the 
 Hall is the Infirmary ; and on the east and west sides of the cloister are the dormi- 
 
 t H
 
 98 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 tories. The arcade beneath the Hall is built with blocks of Haytor granite, highly 
 wrought ; the remainder of the front is of Portland stone. Over the centre arch of the 
 arcade is a bust of Edward VI. The area in front or play-ground, is enclosed by 
 handsome metal gates, enriched with the arms of the Hospital : argent, across gules, 
 in the dexter chief, a dagger of the first (The City of London), on a chief azure, be- 
 tween two fleurs-de-lis or, a rose argent. 
 
 The Dining-hall, with its lobby and organ-gallery, occupies the entire story, which 
 is 187 feet long, 51 feet wide, and 47 feet high ; it is lit by nine large windows, filled 
 with stained glass on the south side ; and is, next to Westminster Hall, the noblest 
 room in the metropolis. 
 
 In the Great Hall hangs a large picture of King Edward VI. seated on his throne, in a scarlet and 
 ermined robe, holding the sceptre in his left hand, and presenting with the other the charter to the 
 kneeling Lord Mayor. By his side stands the Chancellor, holding the seals, and next to him are other 
 officers of state. .Bishop Eidlcy kneels before him with uplifted hands, as if supplicating a blessing on 
 the event; whilst the Aldermen, &c., with the Lord Mayor, kneel on both sides, occupying the middle 
 ground of the picture; and lastly, in front, are a double row of boys on one side, and girls on the 
 other, from the master and matron down to the boy and girl who have stepped forward from their re- 
 spective rows, and kneel with raised hands before the King. 
 
 This picture was long erroneously attributed to Holbein ; but it is now considered 
 to be of the period of James I., or Charles I. ; it is 80 feet long. Here is also a still 
 larger picture, in which James II. is receiving the " Mathematical boys," though there 
 are girls as well as boys. This was painted by Verrio, who also painted the full length 
 of Charles II., which hangs near it. Here are likewise full-length portraits of Queen 
 Victoria and Prince Albert, by Grant ; and a picture of Brook Watson's escape, when 
 a boy, from a shark, with the loss of a leg, while bathing, painted by Copley, father 
 of Lord Chancellor Lyndhurst. 
 
 In the Treasurer's house is a portrait of Edward VI., considered by Mr. J. Gough 
 Nichols to have been evidently painted towards the end of the King's life. There is 
 also at the Hospital another portrait, inscribed " Edwardus, Walliae Princeps, anno 
 setatis suse 9." These portraits have been ascribed to Holbein ; but by the recent 
 discovery of the will of Holbein, it is proved that at his death Edward VI. was only 
 in his sixth year. Neither is there better evidence of the Charter picture in the 
 Great Hall : the event took place in 1553 ; and " it is now ascertained beyond dis- 
 pute that Holbein could have produced no work later than the year 1534 ; whilst 
 hitherto his era has been extended for eleven years longer." Nichols. See also 
 ArchcRologia ; vol. xxxix., pt. 1, 1863. 
 
 In the Hall the boys, now about 800 in number, dine; and here are held the " Sup- 
 pings in Public," to which visitors are admitted by tickets, issued by the Treasurer and 
 by the Governors. The tables are laid with cheese in wooden bowls ; beer, in wooden 
 piggins, poured from leathern jacks ; and bread brought in large baskets. The official 
 company enter ; the Lord Mayor, or President, takes his seat in a state-chair, made of 
 oak from St. Katherine's church by the Tower ; a hymn is sung, accompanied by the 
 organ ; a " Grecian," or head-boy, reads the prayers from the pulpit, silence being en- 
 forced by three drops of a wooden hammer. After prayer, the supper commences, and 
 the visitors walk between the tables. At its close, the " trade-boys" take up the 
 baskets, bowls, jacks, piggins, and candlesticks, and pass in procession, the bowing to the 
 Governors being curiously formal. The " Suppings in Public" are held every Sun- 
 day, from Quinquagesima Sunday to Easter Sunday, inclusive ; they are a picturesque 
 sight, and always well attended. This interesting spectacle was witnessed by Queen 
 Victoria and Prince Albert, on Sunday evening, March 9th, 1845. 
 
 In this Hall, too, St. Matthew's Day (September 21st) the day of the annual Com- 
 memoration is a festival set apart from the first year of their foundation for the General 
 Court of the several Royal Hospitals ; and it is still observed with the usual solemnity. 
 The Lord Mayor and Aldermen having met the Governors of each hospital in the- 
 Great Hall, the children pass before them, leading the way to Christ Church, where 
 the sermon is preached. The company return to the Hall to hear the Grecians, or 
 head-boys, deliver Orations before the Lord Mayor, Corporation, and Governors, and 
 their friends ; this being a relic of the scholars' disputations in the cloisters. After the 
 Orations, a collection is made for the speakers in furtherance of their support at the 
 University. Trollope, in 1834, stated about 1201. to be usually contributed. The de-
 
 CHRIST'S HOSPITAL. 99 
 
 livery of the list of Governors follows the collection ; and, according to the " Order of 
 the Hospitals," all the beadles are called before the Court, and, delivering up their 
 staves, retire to the bottom of the Hall, "that the opinion of the Court may be heard 
 touching the doing of their duties : to the intent, if any of them be faultye, that he 
 or they may be rebuked or dismissed, at the discretion of the said Court ; and there- 
 upon to deliver unto suche as then remayne their staves, and again astablishe them." 
 These forms concluded, the Court is dissolved, and the company, having partaken of 
 refreshments, retire. It appears from the journal of Sheriff Hoare, 1740-41, that 
 " sweet cakes and burnt wine" were then handed round on these occasions, and the 
 usual breakfast was " roast beef and burnt wine." 
 
 The Spital or Hospital Sermons are preached in Christ Church, Newgate-street, on 
 Easter Monday and Tuesday. On Monday the children proceed to the Mansion 
 House, and return in procession to Christ Church, with the Lord Mayor, Lady 
 Mayoress, and City authorities, to hear the sermon. On Tuesday the children again go 
 to the Mansion House, and pass through the Egyptian Hall, before the Lord Mayor, 
 each boy receiving a glass of wine, two buns, and a shilling ; the monitors half-a-cro\v n 
 each, the probationers half-a-guinea each, and the Grecians a guinea all in coins fresh 
 from the Mint ; they then return to Christ Church, as on Monday. 
 
 The boys formerly visited the Royal Exchange on Easter Monday ; but this has 
 been discontinued since the burning of the last Exchange, in 1838. 
 
 At the first drawing-room of the year the forty Mathematical boys are presented 
 to the Sovereign, who inspects their charts, and who gives them 81. 8s. as a 
 gratuity. To this other members of the Royal Family formerly added smaller sums, 
 and the whole was divided among the ten boys who left the school in the year. 
 During the illness of King George III. these presentations were discontinued; but 
 the Governors of the Hospital continued to pay II. 3s., the amount ordinarily 
 received by each, to every boy on quitting. The practice of receiving the boys was 
 revived by William IV., and is continued by her present Majesty. Each scholar 
 having passed his Trinity- House examination, and received testimonials of his good 
 conduct, is presented with a watch, as a reward, worth from 91. to 13. ; in addition 
 to an outfit of clothes, books, mathematical instruments, a Gunter's scale, a quadrant, 
 and a sea-chest. 
 
 Christ's Hospital, by ancient custom, possesses the privilege of addressing the 
 Sovereign on the occasion of his or her coming into the City to partake of the hos- 
 pitality of the Corporation of London. On the visit of Queen Victoria in 1837, a booth 
 was erected for the Hospital boys in St. Paul's Churchyard ; and on the Royal carriage 
 reaching the Cathedral west gate, the senior scholar, with the Head Master and 
 Treasurer, advanced to the coach-door, and delivered a congratulatory address to her 
 Majesty, with a copy of the same on vellum. 
 
 The School has always been famous for its penmen. The education consists of 
 reading, writing, and arithmetic, French, the classics, and the mathematics. There are 
 sixteen Exhibitions for scholarships at the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge, 
 besides a " Pitt Scholarship," and a " Times Scholarship," the latter founded by the 
 proprietors of that journal, with a fund subscribed by the public in testimony of their 
 detection of the Bogle Fraud, 1841. 
 
 Among the more eminent Shies, as the scholars are termed, are Joshua Barnes, 
 editor of Anacreon and Euripides; Jeremiah Markland, the eminent critic, particularly 
 in Greek literature ; Camden, the antiquary ; Bishop Stillingfleet. [Pepys has this 
 quaint entry in his Diary: "January 16, 16G6-7, Sir R. Ford tells me how the famous 
 Stillingfleet was a Bine Coat boy."] Samuel Richardson, the novelist ; Thomas 
 Mitchell, the translator of Aristophanes ; Thomas Barnes, many years editor of the 
 Times newspaper; and Coleridge, Charles Lamb, and Leigh Hunt, who have published 
 many interesting reminiscences of their contemporaries in the School. Lamb's 
 " Recollections of Christ's Hospital," and " Christ's Hospital Five and Thirty Years 
 Ago" (says Peter Cunningham, once a Deputy Grecian), have done much to uphold the 
 dignity of the School. 
 
 The Library is a recent addition ; it is a spacious room, divided into boxes and pro- 
 vided with tables : on the walls hang useful maps, and engravings of the steam-engine 5 
 
 II 2
 
 100 CUEIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 at one end is stored a small but well-chosen collection of books, and on tlie table are 
 several illustrated periodicals. Another addition is the erection of a Gymnasium. 
 
 The old cloister of the Grey Friars Priory, repaired by Wren, and nearly deprived 
 of its ancient appearance, formerly served as a public thoroughfare from Newgate-street 
 to Smithfield, but has been stopped up. In 1855, in excavating for some new houses 
 on the north side of Newgate-street, were exposed, under Christ's Church yard three 
 pointed arches, 10 feet in span, and covered with masses of chalk and concrete, to 
 within three feet of the surface, the rest being earth ; these being vestiges of the Grey 
 Friars buildings j as also are the gateway and a portion of the brick building under 
 which it opens, together with the cloistered passage in rear of the basement. The brick- 
 work of the superstructure, of about Elizabeth's reign, is marvellously fine. 
 
 The customs of the School have varied with time. Formerly the Saints' days were 
 kept as holidays ; money-boxes for the poor were kept in the cloister ; and unruly 
 boys were kept confined in dungeons ; but these regulations have been discontinued. 
 Bread and beer are no longer the breakfast. Nor do the boys perform common menial 
 offices as heretofore. The wards or dormitories, in which the boys sleep, are seventeen 
 in number ; each boy makes his own bed, and each ward is governed by a nurse and 
 two or more monitors. There is a curious feature in most of the sleeping wards : in 
 one corner, near the roof, and reached by a staircase, is a wooden box, which serves as 
 a resting-place and study for the " Grecian " of the ward. From this eminence he is 
 enabled to notice any delinquency below. 
 
 The general burial-ground of the Hospital is between the south cloister and the 
 houses in Newgate-street, where the funerals formerly took place by torch-light, and 
 the service was preceded by an anthem, thus reviving the monastic associations of the 
 place. The Burials are now by daylight. 
 
 A book is preserved, containing the records of the Hospital from its foundation, and 
 an anthem sung by the first children. 
 
 The income of the institution has known much fluctuation ; and consequently, also, 
 the number of inmates. The 340 children with which the Hospital opened had 
 dwindled in 1580 to 150. The object of the institution has also, in the lapse of time, 
 become materially changed, which may in a great measure be attributed to the influence 
 of the Governors, or benefactors, its chief supporters. The government is practically 
 vested in a committee of 50 almoners. The system of education is not considered to 
 have kept pace with the requirements of the times. 
 
 We have seen that there were abuses in the management of the Hospital in Pepys's 
 time ; they have lasted to our day. In 1810, Mr. Waithman, one of the Common 
 Councilmen for the Ward in which the Hospital is situated, showed that instead of 
 being a benefit to the children of the poor and friendless, it was engrossed almost ex- 
 clusively by the rich. Presentations were, at that time, sold at an average of thirty 
 guineas each. By recommendation of Sir Samuel Romilly, and Mr. Bell, the Lord 
 Chancellor was petitioned for an inquiry into the conduct of the Hospital Committee j 
 but, in 1816, its object failed. As testimonies to the original designs of the foun- 
 dation, a statue of a Blue Coat Boy, in each of the four corners of the cloister, had, 
 within the recollection of several persons living, the following painted notice underneath : 
 
 " This is Christ's Hospital, where poor Blue-Coat boys are harboured and educated." ILugkton't 
 Walks through London, 
 
 There is printed annually, and freely circulated, "A True Report of the Number of Children and 
 other poor People maintained in the several Royal Hospitals in the City of London, under the pious care 
 of the Right Honourable the Lord Mayor, Aldermen, and Governors thereof, for the year last past." 
 This document, in appearance, resembles a sheet almanack : it is .headed by the Easter anthem set to 
 music ; and it is enclosed in a woodcut border, the design of which indicates the custom of printing 
 these Reports to have been of lone standing. In the upper portion of the border are the Royal Arms ; 
 at the sides are the City Arms, ancient and modern ; in medallions at the corners are three figures of the 
 Christ's Hospital boys, and one of a girl ; at the foot is an emblematic group, with the old Hospital in 
 the background ; and beneath it is inscribed on a ribbon, " Pray remember the Poor." 
 
 The income arising from early endowments and bequests, which may be set down as 
 
 exceeding 40,OOOZ. per annum, is largely augmented by the contributions of Governors, 
 
 of whom, on an average, twenty-five are elected annually j and as they give 500. each 
 
 on election, 12,500^. a year arises from this source. 
 
 In 1SG5, the gross receipts amounted to 71,8551. 13*. 1CW., more than one half of which is derived
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 101 
 
 from the rents of estates, quit-rents, tithe-rent charges, &c. The benefactions were 8021/. ; legacies, 
 6S302. 2*. lid. The expenditure contains among other items, 27201. 18*. 9d. payments under "bene- 
 factions, wills, deeds of gift, &c., to various parishes and companies for their poor and for other objects, 
 to pensioners, for relief of prisoners for debt, for setting up in business young men and women educated 
 in the Hospital, and other purposes, 29271. The sum available for the purposes of the Hospital was 
 67,3892. 0. l\d. The washing at the two establishment? amounted to 20101. 9. 6d. The provisions and 
 stores (less the sum received hy sale of kitchen-stuff and dripping), amounted to 10,3422. 0*. 4d.; 
 coals and fuel, 7832. 18. 3d. ; gaslighting and water supply, 15652. 7*.; the charges for apparel, linen, 
 bedding, shoes, and leather, were 64082. The average number of children maintained and educated in 
 the London and Hertford establishments in 1865 was 1205 : and the average expenditure per child. 
 412. 1*. 7\d. 
 
 Boys, whose parents may not be free of the City of London, are admissible on Free 
 Presentations, as they are called ; as are also the sons of clergymen of the Church of 
 England. The Lord Mayor has two presentations annually ; and the Court of Alder- 
 men one each : it was the good practice of the late Alderman Humphery, to give his 
 presentations to inhabitants of the Ward over which he presided. The rest of the 
 Governors have presentations once in three years. A list of the Governors who have 
 presentations for the year is printed every Easter, and may be had at the Counting- 
 house of the Hospital. No boy is admitted before he is seven years old, or after he is 
 nine ; and no boy can remain in the School after he is fifteen, King's boys and Grecians 
 alone excepted. There are about 500 Governors, at the head of whom are the Queen, 
 the Prince of Wales, and Prince Alfred. The President is the Duke of Cambridge, 
 whose election to that office was a departure from the custom, which had hitherto been 
 to elect the Lord Mayor for the time being. The qualification for a Governor is pay- 
 ment of 5002". ; but an Alderman has the power of nominating a Governor for ejection 
 at half price. About 200 boys are admitted annually (at the age of from seven to 
 ten years), by presentations in rotation, so that the privilege occurs about once in three 
 or four years. A list of the Governors having presentations is published annually in 
 March, and is to be had at the counting-house of the Hospital. 
 
 The subordinate establishment is at Hertford, to which the younger boys are sent 
 prepiratory to their entering on the foundation in London, which takes place as 
 vacancies occur. The building at Hertford was erected by the Hospital Governors in 
 1683, and has extensive grounds for recreation ; when full, it will contain 416 children, 
 of whom about 200 are taught the classics. There is likewise accommodation here for 
 80 girls. 
 
 The Report published in 1865 states that all the early and chief gifts of the property held by the Hospital 
 are expressed to be for the benefit of poor children, without distinction of sex; nor does the Hospital 
 during the early period of its institution appear to have been appropriated more to boys than to girls. 
 For many years past, however, up to a recent period, only six girls were admitted (at Hertford) every 
 year, besides those received under specific trusts. The education of a boy so as to advance him in life 
 was thought to be of much greater material advantage to a family than the education of a girl ; so that 
 it was a common expression that a governor " threw away " his presentation on nominating a girl. But 
 the purpose of the foundation being the public good, it is considered that the general good would have 
 been better promoted if at least an equal share of the lunds of the Hospital had been expended in the 
 education of girls. 
 
 In 1858, there were 61 girls in the establishment at Hertford, which, in its teaching, was below the 
 level of a good pari>h school ; the number of scholars has since been reduced to 26. Improved schemes 
 of education have been suggested, to comprise instruction in needlework, washing, cooking, and other 
 household work. 
 
 Apart from the special purpose for which Christ's Hospital was endowed, there are 
 seven distinct Charities appropriated, in part or in whole, to entirely separate objects. 
 The annual income from six of these charities may be stated at 9000Z. The seventh, 
 the Charity to the Blind, by the Rev. W. Hetherington, since augmented by many bene- 
 factors, is the wealthiest of all : in one year, 65201. have been paid to 652 aged blind 
 persons. To this fund the late Richard Thornton, Esq., bequeathed 10,OOOJ. 
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 
 
 AN episcopal see was founded in London in the time of the Roman occupation of 
 Britain, but very little is known concerning it. From the establishment of the 
 Saxons in Britain to the mission of Augustine, in 596, there is no record of any 
 Bishop in London; but when Augustine had established himself at Canterbury, 
 he consecrated Mellitus Bishop, in the year 604. The East Saxons relapsed into 
 paganism, on the death of Sebert, their king, when Mellitus was driven out, and
 
 102 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 London remained without a Bishop until 656, in which year Cedd (or Chad), at the 
 invitation of King Sigebert the Good, re-established the see, which has ever since con- 
 tinued without any material interruption or lengthened vacancy. 
 
 London and the suburbs, in the Middle Ages, contained, according to Fitzstephen, 
 " 13 churches belonging to convents, besides 126 lesser parish churches." Of those 
 belonging to convents eleven may be traced. Thus, we find in Fitzstephen's time, 
 Trinity Priory, Aldgate; St. Bartholomew's, West Smithfield; Bermondsey, South- 
 wark ; St. James's Priory, Clerkenwell ; the Priory of St. John the Baptist, Holy well, 
 Shoreditch ; St. Katharine's Hospital by the Tower ; St. Thomas Aeon, at the south- 
 west corner of King-street, Cheapside, upon the site of the birth-place of St. Thomas a 
 Becket ; St. John of Jerusalem, Clerkenwell ; the Temple ; St. Mary Overie, South- 
 wark; and St. Martin's-le-Grand, so named from its magnificence. All, except 
 Bermondsey, are shown in Wyngrerde's View of London, 1543, in the Sutherland 
 Collection, at Oxford. 
 
 Stow states the entire number of parish churches at his time (1525 1605), in and 
 about London, within four miles' compass, at 139. Within the walls, at the Great 
 Fire, there were 98 churches, of which 85 were burnt down, and 13 unburnt ; 53 were 
 rebuilt, and 35 united to ether parishes. 
 
 The following were the City Churches burnt and not rebuilt : 
 
 Allhallows, Honey-lane ; near the City School. Alihallows the Less, in Thames-street, near Cole- 
 harbour-lane, graveyard remains. St. Andrew Hubbard, near to the site of the Weigh House ChapeL 
 St. Ann, Blackfriars, Ireland-yard, now graveyard. St. Benet Sherehog, Pancras-lane, near Bucklers- 
 bury, now graveyard. St. Botolph Billingsgate, over against Botolph-lane, Thames-street ; burying- 
 ground, and the site built upon. St. Faith was under the lien of the late Cathedral of St. Paul's, in the 
 ground of which, previous to the Intramural Act, the parishioners had a right of interment. St. Gabriel, 
 Fenchurch, in Fenchurch-street, graveyard exists. St. Gregory, in St. Paul's-churchyard, near where 
 the statue of Queen Anne now stands. St. John Baptist, on Dowgate-hill, the corner of Cloak-lane, now 
 graveyard. St. John Evangelist, in Watling-street, corner of Friday-street, now graveyard. St. 
 John Zachary, corner of Silver-street, Falcon-square, now graveyard. St. Laurence Pountney, on Lau- 
 rence Pountney-hill, now graveyard. St. Leonard's, Eastcheap, now graveyard. St. Leonard, 
 Foster-lane, the graveyard part of the site of the General Post Office. St. Margaret Moses, in Passing- 
 alley, late a burying-ground, now Little Friday-street. St. Margaret, New Fish-street, church and burial 
 ground, where the Monument now stands. St. Martin Pomeroy, in Ironmonger-lane, on part of the 
 ground now the graveyard. St. Martin Orgar, in St. Martin's-lane, where there is now a French Church, 
 fet. Martin's Vintry, College-hill, Thames-street, now graveyard. St. Mary Bothaw, in Turnwheel- 
 lane, now graveyard. St. Mary Colechurch, in Old Jewry, where the Mercers' Hal Iwas, and Frederick- 
 place now is. St. Mary Magdalen, Milk-street, and ground, where part of Honey-lane Market now stands. 
 !St. Mary Mounthaw, on Labour-in-vain-hill, now graveyard. St. Mary Staining, on the north side of 
 Oat-lane, on a part of the graveyard remaining, opposite Titus Gates' House, now pulled down. St. Mary 
 "VVoolchurch and graveyard, where the Mansion House now stands. St. Michael-le-Querne, near Pater- 
 noster-row, in Cheapside, where a conduit formerly stood. St. Nicholas Aeons, in Nicholas-lane, now 
 graveyard. St. Nicholas Olave, in Bread-street-hill, now graveyard. St. Olave, Silver-street, south side 
 of Noble-street, now graveyard j under part of which some remains of the church have been discovered. 
 St. Pancras Soper lane, in Pancras-lane, near Queen-street, where is the graveyard. St. Peter Cheap, 
 corner of Wood-street, Cheapside, where the graveyard still remains, and where the plane-tree still 
 flourishes, on which the rooks, till lately, annually built their nests. St. Peter Paul's-wharf, at the 
 bottom of Peter' s-hill, Thames-street, now graveyard. St. Thomas the Apostle, now graveyard, corner 
 of Cloak-lane. The Holy Trinity church, where there is now a Lutheran church, corner of Little Trinity- 
 lane. St. Christopher-le-Stocks church, in Threadneedle-street, pulled down in 1781, for the enlarge- 
 ment of the Bank of England. 
 
 Pepys records this odd circumstance concerning the London churches destroyed in the Great Fire : 
 " January 7th, 1667-8. It is observed, and is true, in the late Fire of London, that the fire burned just as 
 many parish churches as there were hours from the beginning to the end of the fire; and next that 
 there were just as many churches left standing in the rest of the City that was not burned, being, I 
 think, thirteen in all of each ; which is pretty to observe." 
 
 Sir Christopher Wren built, besides St. Paul's and the western towers of West- 
 minster Abbey, fifty churches in the metropolis, at sums varying from less than 2500Z. 
 to upwards of 15,000?. In " Gothic," or, as Wren proposed to call it, " Saracenic," 
 architecture, he was certainly not a successful practitioner ; although in the adaptation, 
 of a steeple (a form peculiar to Pointed architecture) to Roman buildings, he has mani- 
 fested much ingenuity, and produced some light and graceful forms of almost endless 
 variety. This may be seen by reference to Mr. Cockerell's picturesque grouping of the 
 principal works of Wren, the drawing of which was exhibited at the Royal Academy in 
 1838, and has been engraved in line by Richardson. 
 
 In the reign of Queen Anne were built or commenced eleven churches. In 
 the next two reigns were completed three large churches, each distinguished by 
 a noble Corinthian portico : viz., St. George's, Bloomsbury ; St. Martin's-in-the- 
 Fields ; and St. George's, Hanover-square. With the exception of St. Peter-le-Poor
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 103 
 
 (1791) and St. Martin's Outwich (1796) not one church was built from the com- 
 mencement of the reign of George III. nearly to the Regency, an interval of more 
 than half a century. The two Grecian orders, Doric and Ionic, were then adopted in 
 church- building; this pseudo classic-style was superseded by the Old English of various 
 periods. The increase of churches did not, however, keep pace with the population ; 
 though the appeals to the public for funds were, in some instances, answered with rare 
 munificence. Thus, in the subscriptfon-list in 1836 for building new churches we find 
 the following donation : " A clergyman seeking for treasure in heaven, 5000Z." 
 
 In 1839, Lord John Russell stated in Parliament, that in London there were 34 
 parishes, with a population of 1,1.70,000, and church accommodation for only 101,000 ; 
 and in these 34 parishes were only 69 churches, and including proprietary chapels, only 
 100 places of worship in the whole ; whereas, if we allot a church to every 3000, there 
 ought to be 379, leaving a deficiency of 279. In the following year, 1840, the Bishop 
 of London remarked to the House of Lords : \ ^ 
 
 " If you proceed a mile or two eastward of St. Paul's, you will find yourself in the midst of a popu- '" 
 lation themost wretched and destitute of mankind, consisting of artificers, labourers, beggars, and thieves, 
 to the amount of 300,000 or 400,000 souls ! Throughout this entire quarter there is not more than one 
 church for 10,000 inhabitants ; and in one, nay in two districts, there is but one church for 45,000 
 souls." 
 
 The Rev. Dr. Gumming next stated that in a radius of eight miles around St. Paul's 
 there was a population of two millions, of whom not more than 60,000 were com- 
 municants in any church or chapel whatever. Instead of five-eighths, or 1,300,000, 
 of the population being church-goers, the greatest extent of attendance at any place of 
 worship did not exceed 400,000, and not more than 600,000 could be accommodated. 
 In a small district of Covent Garden there were 354 houses : 338 were of the most 
 wretched description ; these contained 1216 individuals, of whom only 134 attended 
 church ; and in that small locality there were no fewer than 44 shops regularly open 
 on the Sabbath. In some cases there was a population of 100,000 in the parish, with 
 only one rector and one curate. The above startling statistics led to a " Metropolis f\ 
 Churches Fund," established in 1836, by which means several churches have been built ^ 
 and provided for. 
 
 The great number of the City churches is, however, now disproportionate to its 
 requirements. In 1834, Mr. Lambert Jones stated in the Court of Common 
 Council, that the population of the City had within a century decreased one-half; 
 that the number of inhabitants did not then exceed 53,000, and for them were 66 
 churches. The population of the City may now be set down at 55,000, for whom there 
 are 60 churches, a proportion very different to that which exists in other parts of the 
 metropolis. At St. Mildred's, Poultry, on a Sunday morning, there has been only 
 one person to form a congregation, and there was, consequently, no service. By a 
 Parliamentary return, the largest income is 20S1Z. 9s. 4d., for St. Botolph, Bishops- 
 gate ; and the smallest but one is 401., for St. Helen, Bishopsgate. In one church 
 (St. Laurence Jewry and St. Mary Magdalen, Milk-street), with sittings for 1000 
 persons, the average attendance is only 30. At another church, with 700 sittings, the 
 average attendance is 30. In 1853, the congregations were, in some cases, below 16, 
 and in many under 50 : average about 33. Various remedies have been proposed, as 
 the union of benefices, and the removal of churches to ill-provided parishes. " The 
 Bishop of London's Fund" has been formed. In the 211 parishes of the metropolis 
 there are nearly 1,000,000 persons for whom the Church of England ought eventually 
 to provide, which is sought to be done by raising a fund of 3,000,000^. 
 
 " One of the most important movements of our time originated in the late Bishop of London's sense 
 of the great church destitution observable principally in the Bethnal-green district, which became even 
 at the outset metropolitan. Jt has resulted up to the present time in the erection, and more or less 
 complete endowment, of no less than seventy-eight new churches in and near London, at a cost of more 
 than half a million ; independently of seven new churches, the entire erection and endowment of which 
 by seven separate individuals (one being the Bishop himself), is wholly attributable to the impulse de- 
 rived from the appeal made to the public on the first formation of the Metropolitan Churches Fund. 
 This is a great achievement, and it will go down in history a lasting honour to Bishop Blomfield's name. 
 Yet it is remarkable that the first publication of this great design very nearly coincided in point of time 
 with that of the publication of the first Tracts for the Times ; and its success was most materially aided 
 by the munificent zeal with which Dr. Pusey, in particular, and the then Oxford residents generally, the 
 Tract-writers and their friends, took it up and forwarded it ; but it was the Bishop's conception and 
 execution." The Ghiardian-
 
 104 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 OLD SAINT PAUL'S. 
 
 rilHE present Cathedral of St. Paul is the third church dedicated to that saint, and 
 J- built very nearly upon the same site. The first church was founded about 
 A.D. 610, by Ethelbert, King of Kent, but destroyed by fire in 1087. Its rebuilding 
 was commenced by Bishop Maurice, whose successor completed the enclosing walls, 
 which extended as far as Paternoster-row and Ave Maria-lane, on one side ; and to Old 
 Change, Carter-lane, and Creed-lane on the other. This second church, " Old Saint 
 Paul's," was built of Caen stone: it was greatly injured by fire in 1137; but a new 
 steeple was finished in 1221, and in 1240 a choir. The entire edifice was 690 feet 
 long, and 130 feet broad; and its tower and spire rose 520 feet, or 116 feet higher 
 than the spire of Salisbury Cathedral ; 64 feet loftier than that of Vienna ; 50 feet 
 higher than that of Strasburg ; surpassing the height of the Great Pyramid of Egypt ; 
 and higher than the Monument placed upon the cross of the present Cathedral. It 
 had a bowl of copper-gilt, 9 feet in compass (large enough to hold 10 bushels of corn), 
 supporting a cross 15J feet high, surmounted by an " eagle-cock of copper-gilt, 4 feet 
 long." In 1314, the cross fell ; and the steeple of wood covered with lead, being 
 ruinous, was taken down, and rebuilt, with a new gilt ball. The French Chronicle 
 notices this reparation, and describes the extraordinary relics which were found in the 
 old ball, and replaced, with additions, in the new one. In 1444, the steeple was nearly 
 destroyed by lightning, and not repaired till 1462. In 1561, the Cathedral was partly 
 burnt, but was restored in 1566, except the spire, which was never rebuilt. Heylin, 
 in his Cosmography, says of the above catastrophe : 
 
 "It was by the carelessness of the sexton consumed with fire, which happening in a thundering and 
 tempestuous day, was by him confidently affirmed to be done by lightning, and was so generally believed 
 till the hour of his death; but not many years since, to disabuse the world, he confessed the truth of it, 
 on which discovery, the burning of St. Paul's steeple by lightning was left out of our common almanacks, 
 where formerly it stood among the ordinary epochs or accounts of time." 
 
 The church was of the Latin cross form, with a Lady chapel at the east end, and 
 two other chapels, St. George's north, and St. Dunstan's south. At the eastern 
 extremity of the churchyard stood a square docker, or bell -tower, with four bells, 
 rung to summon the citizens to folkmotes held here. These bells belonged to St. 
 Faith's under St. Paul's, a church so situated, hut demolished about 1256, when part 
 of the crypt beneath the Cathedral choir was granted to "the parishioners for divine 
 service. Hence the popular story in our time of there being a church under St. Paul's, 
 and service in it once a year. At the south-west corner was the parish church of St. 
 Gregory. Fuller wittily describes Old St. Paul's as being "truly the mother-church, 
 having one babe in her body St. Faith's and another in her arms St. Gregory's/' 
 
 On the south side of the Cathedral, within a cloister, was a chapter-house, in the 
 Pointed style; and on the north, on the walls of another cloister, next to the charnel- 
 house, was a " Dance of Death," or, as Stow calls it, " Death leading all Estates, 
 curiously painted upon board, with the speeches of Death, and answer of every Estate," 
 by John Lydgate. It was painted at the cost of John Carpenter, Town Clerk of 
 London, temp. Henry V. and VI. 
 
 On special saints' days it was customary for the choristers of the Cathedral to 
 ascend the spire to a great height, and there to chant solemn prayers and anthems : 
 the last observance of this custom was in the reign of Queen Mary, when, " after 
 even-song, the quere of Paules began to go about the steeple singing with lightes, 
 after the olde custome." A similar tenure-custom is observed to this day at Oxford, 
 on the morning of May 1, on Magdalen College tower. 
 
 Camden relates, that on the anniversary of the Conversion of St. Paul, January 25, 
 held in the church, a fat buck was received with great formality at the choir entrance 
 by the canons, in their sacerdotal vestments, and with chaplets of flowers on their 
 heads; whilst the antlers of the buck were carried on a pike in procession round the 
 edifice, with horns blowing, &c. On the buck being offered at the high altar, one 
 shilling was paid by the Dean and Chapter.
 
 CHURCHES OLD SAINT PAUL'S. 105 
 
 St. Baude, in lieu of twenty-two acres, bequeathed a fat doe in winter, and a buck 
 in summer, which was received at the altar crowned with roses by the chapter 
 annually, till the reign of Elizabeth. 
 
 On the north side near the east end stood Paul's or Fowly's Cross, with a pulpit 
 whence sermons were preached, the anathema of the Pope thundered forth, heresies 
 recanted, and sins atoned for. 
 
 The Cross was hexagonal in form ; of wood, raised on stone steps, with a canopy covered with lead, 
 on which was elevated a cross. Stow could not ascertain its date : we first read of it in 1259, when, 
 by command of Henry III, striplings were here sworn to be loyal : and in the same year the folkmote 
 Common Hall assembled here by the tolling of St. Paul's great bell. At preaching the commonalty sat 
 in the open air ; the king, his train, and noblemen in covered galleries. All preachers coming from a 
 distance had an allowance from the Corporation, and were lodged during five days " in sweete and con- 
 venient lodgings, with fire, candle, and all necessary food." Bishop Northburgh lent small sums to 
 citizens on pledge, directing that if at the year's end they were not restored, then that "the preacher 
 at Paul's Cross should declare that the pledge, within fourteen days would be sold, if unredeemed." An 
 earthquake overthrew the Cross in 1382; it was set up again by Bishop Kemp in 1419. 
 
 Ralph Baldoc, Dean of Paul's, cursed from the Cross all persons who had searched in the church 
 of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields for a hoard of gold. In 1483, Jane Shore, with a taper in one hand, and 
 arrayed in her " kertell onelj e," did open penance at the Cross. In the same year, Dr. Shaw and Friar 
 Pinke aided the traitorous schemes of Duke Richard; the preacher took for his text these words, 
 " Bastard slips shall never take deep root." Stow in forms us that the Doctor so repented his " shamefuf 
 sermon " that it struck him to the heart, and " within a few days he withered and consumed away." 
 Friar Pinke lost his voice while preaching, and was forced to leave the pulpit. Royal contracts of mar- 
 riage were notified from the Cross. Henry VIII. sent preachers to the Cross every Sunday to preach 
 down the Pope's authority. In 1538, Bishop Fisher exposed at the Cross the famous rood of grace 
 from Boxley Abbey. From his attendance there, as a preacher, Richard Hooker dated the miseries 
 of his married life. Queen Mary caused sermons to be preached at the Cross in praise of the old 
 religion, but they occasioned serious riots. 
 
 The Cross was pulled down in 1643, by order of Parliament ; its site was long 
 denoted by a tall elm tree. 
 
 The interior of the church was divided throughout by two ranges of clustered 
 columns ; it had a rich screen, and canopied doorways ; and a large painted rose- 
 window at the east end. The walls were sumptuously adorned with pictures, 
 shrines, and curiously wrought tabernacles; gold and silver, rubies, emeralds, and 
 pearls glittered in splendid profusion ; and upon the high altar were heaped countless 
 stores of gold and silver plate, and illuminated missals. The shrine of St. Erkenwald 
 (the fourth bishop), at the back of the high altar, had' among its jewels a sapphire, 
 believed to cure diseases of the eye. The mere enumeration of these treasures fills 
 twenty-eight pages of Dugdale's folio history of the Cathedral. King John of France 
 offered at St. Erkenwald's shrine; King Henry III. on the feast of St. Paul's Conver- 
 sion, gave 1500 tapers to the church, and fed 15,000 poor in the garth, or close. 
 
 There are several notices of miracles said to have been wrought in St. Paul's at " a 
 tablet," or picture, set up by Thomas Earl of Lancaster, who, after his execution at 
 Pontefract, was reckoned a martyr by the populace. The tablet was removed by royal 
 order, but replaced a few years later. At the base of one of the pillars was sculp- 
 tured the foot of Algar, the first prebendary of Islington, as the standard measure for 
 legal contracts in land, just as Henry I., Eichard I., and John, furnished the iron ell 
 by their arms. On the north side of the choir, " on whose monument hung his proper 
 helmet and spear, as also his target covered with horn " (Dugdale), stood the stately 
 tomb of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, and Blanche, his first wife. In St. 
 Dunstan's chapel was the fine old tomb of Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, from whom 
 Lincoln's Inn derives its name. In the middle aisle of the nave stood the tomb of 
 Sir John Beauchamp, constable of Dover Castle, and son to Guy Beauchamp, Earl 
 of Warwick. Between the choir and south aisle was a noble monument to Sir Nicholas 
 Bacon, father of Lord Chancellor Bacon ; and " higher than the post and altar," 
 (Bishop Corbet), between two columns of the choir, was the sumptuous monument of 
 Sir Christopher Hatton ; and near it was a tablet to Sir Philip Sidney, and another to 
 his father-in-law, Sir Francis Walsingham, The stately appearance of Hatton's monu- 
 ment and the plainness of Walsingham's and Sidney's tablets, gave rise to this epigram 
 by old Stow : 
 
 "Philip and Francis have no tomb, 
 For great Sir Christopher takes all the room."
 
 106 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 In the south aisle of the choir were the tombs of two of the Deans ; Colet the 
 founder of Paul's school, a recumbent skeleton ; and Dr. Donne, the poet, standing 
 in his stony shroud : the latter is preserved in the crypt of the present Cathedral. In 
 a vault, near John of Gaunt's tomb, was buried Van Dyck ; but the outbreak of the 
 wars under Charles I., prevented the erection of any monument to his memory. The 
 state obsequies were a profitable privilege of the Cathedral : the choir was hung with 
 black and escutcheons ; and the horses were magnificently adorned with banner-rolls 
 and other insignia of vainglory. 
 
 The floor of the church was laid out in walks: "the south alley for usurye and 
 poperye; the north for simony and the horse-fair; in the midst for all kinds of bar- 
 gains, meetings, brawlings, murthers, conspiracies, &c." The middle aisle, " Pervyse of 
 Paul's," or " Paul's Walk," was commonly called " Duke Humphrey's Walk," from Sir 
 John Beauchamp's monument, unaccountably called " Duke Humphrey's Tomb," being 
 the only piece of sculpture here ; and as this walk was a lounge for idlers and hunters 
 after news, wits and gallants, cheats, usurers, and knights of the post, dinnerless per- 
 sons who lounged there were said to dine with Duke Humphrey. Here " each lawyer 
 and serjeant at his pillar heard his client's cause, and took notes thereof upon his 
 knee." (Dugdale's Orig. Jurid.) Here masterless men, at the Si quis door, set up 
 their bills for service. Here the font was used as a counter for payments. Here spur 
 money was demanded by two choristers from any person entering the Cathedral 
 during divine service with spurs on. Hither Fleetvvood, Recorder of London, came 
 " to learn some news" to convey by news-letter to Lord Burghley. Ben Jonson has 
 laid a scene of his Every Man out of Ms Humour in " the middle aisle in Paule's ;" 
 Captain Bobadil is a " Paul's man ;" and Falstaff bought Bardolph in Paul's. Greene, 
 in his Theeves Falling Out, fyc., says : " Walke in the middle of Paul's, and gentlemen's 
 teeth walk not faster at ordinaries, than there a whole day together about enquiry 
 after news." Bishop Earle, in his Microcosmoyraphia, 1629, says : " Paul's Walk is 
 the Land's Epitome, or you may call it the lesser He of Great Brittaine. * * * * The 
 noyse in it is like that of Bees, in strange hummings or buzze, mixt of walking, 
 tongues, and feet; it is a kind of still roare, or loud whisper." It was a common 
 thoroughfare for porters and carriers, for ale, beer, bread, fish, flesh, fardels of stuff, 
 and " mules, horses, and other beasts ;" drunkards lay sleeping on the benches at the 
 choir-door ; within, dunghills were suffered to accumulate ; and in the choir people 
 walked " with their hatts on their heddes." Dekker, in his Gull's Hornbook, tells 
 us that the church was profaned by shops, not only of booksellers, but of other trades, 
 such as " the semster's shops," and " the new tobacco office." So great had the 
 nuisances become, that the Mayor and Common Council in 1554, prohibited, by fine, 
 the use of the church for such irreverent purposes. 
 
 The desecration of the exterior of the church was more abominable. The chantry 
 and other chapels were used for stores and lumber, as a school and a glazier's work- 
 shop ; parts of the vaults were occupied by a carpenter, and as a wine-cellar ; and the 
 cloisters were let out to trunkmakers, whose " knocking and noyse" greatly disturbed 
 the church-service. Houses were built against the outer walls, in which closets and 
 window-ways were made : one was used " as a play-house," and in another the owner 
 " baked his bread and pies in an oven excavated within a buttress ;" for a trifling fee, 
 the bell-ringers allowed wights to ascend the tower, halloo, and throw stones at the 
 passengers beneath. The first recorded Lottery in England was drawn at the west 
 door in 1569. Dekker describes " Paul's Jacks," automaton figures, which struck the 
 quarters, on the clock. We read, too, of rope-dancing feats from the battlements of 
 St. Paul's exhibited before Edward VI., and in the reign of Queen Mary, who, the day 
 before her coronation, also witnessed a Dutchman standing upon the weathercock of 
 the steeple, waving a five-yard streamer ! Another marvel of this class was the ascent 
 of Bankes, on his famous horse Marocco, to the top of St. Paul's, in the year 1600, to 
 the delight of " a number of asses" who brayed below. The steed was " a middle- 
 sized bay English gelding," and Bankes was a vintner in Cheapside, and had taught 
 his horse to count and perform a variety of feats. When the novelty had somewhat 
 lessened in London, Bankes took his wonderful horse to Paris, and afterwards to
 
 CHURCHES ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 107 
 
 Home. " Pic had better have stayed at home, for both he and his horse (which was 
 shod with silver) were burnt for witchcraft." (Ben Jonson's Epigrams.) Shakspeare 
 alludes to " the dancing horse" {Love's Labour Lost) ; and in a tract called Maroccus 
 Extaiicus, qto., 1595, there is a rude woodcut of the unfortunate juggler and his 
 famous gelding. Cunningham's Handbook. 
 
 Several attempts were made to restore the Cathedral ; and money, Stow says, was 
 collected for rebuilding the steeple ; but no eifectual step for the repairs was taken 
 until 1633, when Inigo Jones, to remove the desecration from the nave to the ex- 
 terior, built, it is stated at the expense of Charles I., at the west end, a Corinthian 
 ^portico of eight columns, with a balustrade in panels, upon which he intended to have 
 placed ten statues : this portico was 200 feet long, 40 feet high, and 50 feet deep; 
 but its classic design, affixed to a Gothic church, must be condemned, unless it be con- 
 sidered as an instalment of a new cathedral. Laud was then Bishop of London. The 
 sum collected was 101.330Z. ; and the repairs progressed until about one-third of the 
 money was expended, in 1642, when they were stopped by the contests between 
 Charles and his people : the funds in hand were seized to pay the soldiers of the 
 Commonwealth, and Old St. Paul's was made a horse-quarter for troops. 
 
 Shortly after the Restoration, the repairs were resumed under Sir John Denham ; 
 and " that miracle of a youth," Wren, drew plans for the entire renovation. A com- 
 mission was appointed, but before the funds were raised, the whole edifice was destroyed 
 in the Great .Fire: 
 
 "The daring flames peep'd in, and saw from far 
 
 The awful beauties of the sacred quire ; 
 But since it was profan'd by civil war, 
 Heav'n thought it fit to have it purg'd by fire." 
 
 Dryden's Annus Hfirabilis. 
 Evelyn thus records the catastrophe : 
 
 " I was infinitely concerned to find that goodly church, St. Paul's, now a sad ruin, and that beautiful 
 portico (for structure, comparable to any in Europe) now rent in pieces, flakes of vast stone split asunder, 
 but nothing remaining entire but the inscriptions, showing by whom it was built, which had not one 
 letter defaced. It was astonishing to see what immense stones the heat had in a manner calcined, so 
 that all the ornaments flew off, even to the very roof, where a sheet of lead covering a great space was 
 totally melted. The lead over the altar at the east end was untouched, and among the monuments the 
 body of one bishop remained entire." 
 
 According to Dugdale, this was the corpse of Bishop Braybrooke, which had been 
 inhumed 260 years, being " so dried up, the flesh, sinews, and skin cleaving fast to the 
 bones, that being set upon the feet it stood as still as a plank, the skin being tough 
 like leather, and not at all inclined to putrefaction, which some attributed to the 
 sanctity of the person offering much money." 
 
 In the Great Fire the church was reduced to a heap of ruins ; and books valued at 
 150.000Z., which had been placed in St. Faith's (the crypt) for safety by the stationers 
 of Paternoster-row, were entirely destroyed. After the Fire, Wren removed part of 
 the thick walls by gunpowder, but most he levelled with a battering-ram ; some of the 
 stone was used to build parish churches, and some to pave the neighbouring streets. 
 Tradition tells that Serjeants' Inn, Fleet-street, being then ecclesiastical property, was 
 not forgotten in the distribution of the remains of Old St. Paul's ; and there remained 
 to our day a large number of blocks of Purbeck stone, believed to have formed part of 
 the old Cathedral. 
 
 The west end of the old church was not taken down till 1686. In the same year a 
 great quantity of old alabaster was beaten into powder for making cement. Those 
 fragments were, doubtless, monumental effigies or other ornaments of the old church. 
 In 1688 the tower was pulled down, and 162 corpses taken from its cemetery and re- 
 buried at the west end of the old foundation, at 6d. each. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 TVT EARLY eight years elapsed after the Great Fire ere the ruins of the old Cathedral 
 J-^ were cleared from the site. Meanwhile, Wren was instructed " to contrive a 
 fabric of moderate bulk, but of good proportion ; a convenient quire, with a vestibule 
 and porticoes, and a dome conspicuous above the houses." A design was accordingly 
 prepared, octagonal in plan, with a central dome and cupolettas, and affording a vast
 
 103 
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 number of picturesque combinations, as sbown in the model, preserved to this day. It 
 is of wood, and some 10 feet in height to the summit of the dome ; it is thus large 
 enough to walk bodily into it. Wren aimed at a design antique and well studied, con- 
 formable to the best style of the Greek and Koman architecture. The model is accu- 
 rately wrought, and carved with all its proper ornaments, consisting of one order, the 
 Corinthian only. The model, after the finishing of the new fabric, was deposited over 
 the Morning Prayer Chapel, on the north side. Wren's model had neither side aisles 
 nor oratories, though they were afterwards added, because as Spence, in his Anecdotes, 
 imagines, the Duke of York (James II.) considered side aisles would be an absolute, 
 necessity in a cathedral where he hoped the Romish ritual would soon be practised. 
 These innovations sadly marred the uniformity of the original design, and when de- 
 cided upon, drew tears of vexation from the architect. He was paid 160 guineas only 
 for the model. The Surveyor next devised " a cathedral form, so altered as to recon- 
 cile, as near as possible, the Gothic to a better manner of architecture ;" which being 
 
 approved, Charles II. issued 
 his warrant for commenc- 
 ing the works May 1, 1675. 
 In digging the foundation, 
 a vast cemetery was dis- 
 covered, in which Britons, 
 Romans, and Saxons had 
 been successively buried ; 
 and on digging deeper, 
 marine shells were found, 
 thus proving that the sea 
 once flowed over the site 
 of the present cathedral. 
 Wren did not, however, 
 
 ' --*"' find any remains to support 
 
 Relative positions of the Old and Xew Cathedrals. the tradition of a Roman 
 
 temple to Diana having once occupied this spot. The accompanying ground-plan shows 
 the relative positions of the Old and New Cathedrals. 
 
 The first stone of the new church was laid June 21, 1675, by the architect and his 
 lodge of Freemasons ; and the trowel and mallet then used are preserved in the Lodge 
 of Antiquity, of which Wren was master. The mallet has a silver plate let into the 
 head ; and it bears this inscription : 
 
 " By Order of the M. W. the Grand Master, 
 His Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex, &e., &c., 
 
 and \V. Master of the Lodge of Antiquity, 
 
 and with the Concurrence of the Brethren of the 
 
 Lodge, this plate has been engraved and affixed 
 
 to this MALLKT. A.L. 5831, A.D. 1827. 
 
 To commemorate that this, being the same Mallet with which 
 
 His MAJESTY KING CHARLES THB SKCOMD 
 
 levelled the foundation Stone of 
 ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, A.L. 5677, A.D. 1673, 
 was presented to the Old Lodge of St. Paul's, 
 
 now the Lodge of Antiquity, 
 
 acting by immemorial Constitution. 
 
 Bi BROTHER SIR CHRISTOPHER WHEN, R.W.D.G.M., 
 
 Worshipful Master of the Lodge, 
 
 and Architect of that Edifice." 
 
 Portland stone had been selected, principally on account of the large scantlings 
 procurable from those quarries, and yet no blocks of more than four feet in diameter 
 could be procured. This led to the choice of two orders of architecture, with an attic 
 story like that of St. Peter's at Rome, that the just proportions of the cornice might 
 be preserved. 
 
 In commencing the works, Wren accidentally set out the dimensions of the dome 
 upon a piece of a gravestone inscribed Resurgam (I shall rise again) ; which pro- 
 pitious circumstance is commemorated in a Phoenix rising from the flames, with the 
 motto Resurgam, sculptured by Cibber in the pediment over the southern portico. 
 In 1678 Wren set out the piers and pendentives of the dome.
 
 CHURCHES 8T. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 109 
 
 During the building, the Commissioners, with Sir Christopher Wren, issued the following very 
 proper order : 
 
 " Whereas, among labourers, &c., that ungodly custom of swearing is too frequently heard, to the 
 dishonour of God and contempt of authority ; and to the end, therefore, that such impiety may be 
 utterly banished from these works intended for the service of God and the honour of religion, it is 
 ordered that customary swearing shall be sufficient crime to dismiss any labourer that comes to the 
 call; and the clerk of the works, upon sufficient proof, shall dismiss them accordingly. And if any 
 master, working by task, shall not upon admonition, refrain this profanation among his apprentices, 
 servants, and labourers, it shall be construed his fault, and he shall be liable to be censured by the 
 Commissioners. Dated 26th September, 1695." 
 
 By 1685, the walls of the choir and its side aisles, and the north and south semi- 
 circular porticoes, were finished ; the piers of the dome were also brought up to the 
 same height. On Dec. 2, 1697, the choir was opened on the day of Thanksgiving for 
 the peace of Ryswick, when Bishop Burnet preached before King William. On Feb. 1, 
 1699, the Morning Prayer Chapel, at the north-west angle, was opened; and in 1710 
 the son of the architect laid the last stone the highest slab on the top of the 
 lantern. 
 
 There is a strange story of a conspiracy against Queen Anne, who was to have been 
 crushed to death in St. Paul's ; the screws of some part of the building being loosened 
 beforehand for the purpose, and intended to be removed when she should come to the 
 Cathedral, and thus overwhelm her in the fall. 
 
 Notices of this imaginary plot will be found in Boyer's Annals of Queen Anne, Nov. 9, 1710, and 
 in Oldmixon's Hist, of England, p. 452. The latter states, that "Mr. Secretary St. John had not 
 been long in office before he gave proofs of his fitness for it, by inserting an advertisement in the 
 Gazette of some evil-designing persons having unscrewed the timbers of the west roof of the cathedral. 
 Upon this foundation, Mrs. Abigail Masham affirmed that the screws were taken away that the cathe- 
 dral might tumble upon the heads of the Court on the Thanksgiving-day, when it was supposed her 
 Majesty would have gone thither. But upon inquiry, it appeared that the missing of the iron pins was 
 owing to the neglect of some workmen, who thought the timber sufficiently fastened without them ; 
 and the foolishness, as well as malice, of this advertisement made people more merry than angry." 
 
 Thus, the whole edifice was finished in 
 thirty-five years; under one architect, Sir 
 Christopher Wren ; one master-mason, Mr. 
 Thomas Strong ; and while one Bishop, 
 Dr. Henry Compton, occupied the see. For 
 his services, Wren obtained, with difficulty, 
 200?. per annum ! " and for this," said the 
 Duchess of Marlborough, " he was content 
 to be dragged up in a basket three or four 
 times a week." The fund raised for the 
 rebuilding amounted, in ten years, to 
 216,000/. ; a new duty laid on coals for 
 this purpose produced 5000Z. a year ; and 
 the King contributed 10,000. annually. 
 
 Exterior. St. Paul's occupies very nearly 
 the site of the old Cathedral, in the centre 
 and most elevated part of the City ; though 
 its highest point, the cross, is 36 feet lower 
 than the Castle Tavern, on Harnpstead 
 Heath. The plan of the Cathedral is a Latin 
 cross, and bears a general resemblance to 
 that of St. Peter's. Its length, from the 
 east to the west wall, is 500 feet; north 
 to south, 250 feet ; width, 125 feet, except 
 at the western end, where two towers, and 
 chapels beyond, make this, the principal 
 front, facing Ludgate-hill, about 180 feet 
 in width. The chapels are, the Morning 
 Prayer, north; and the Consistory Court, 
 south. 
 
 The exterior generally is of two orders, Ground Plan of St. Paul's Cathedral. A. Nave. 
 100 feet in height the upper Composite, Tra^sep^T < h ^ NorthTranse Pt- *>. South
 
 110 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and the lower Corinthian ; and the surface of the church is Portland stone, rusticated 
 or grooved throughout. At the east end is a semicircular recess, containing the altar. 
 At the west end, a noble flight of steps ascends to a double portico of coupled 
 columns, twelve in the lower, Corinthian ; and eight in the upper, Composite ; termi- 
 nated by a pediment, in the tympanum of which (64 feet long and 17 feet high) is the 
 Conversion of St. Paul, sculptured in pretty high relief by Bird ; on the apex is a 
 colossal figure of St. Paul, and on the right and left, St. Peter and St. James. Beneath 
 the lower portico are the doors, and above them a sculptured group, in white marble, 
 of St. Paul preaching to the Bereans. This double portico has been much censured: 
 Wren pleaded that he could not obtain stone of sufficient height for the shafts of one 
 grand portico j " but," says Mr. Joseph Gwilt, " it would have been far better to have 
 had the columns in many pieces, and even with vertical joints, than to have placed one 
 portico above another." At the extremities of this front rise, 220 feet, two campanile 
 towers, terminating in open lanterns, " covered with domes formed by curves of 
 contrary flexure, and not very purely composed, though, perhaps, in character with the 
 general facade." (Gwilt.) Each dome has a gilt pine-apple at the apex : the south 
 tower contains the clock, and the north is a belfry ; and in the west faces are statues 
 of the four Evangelists. At the northern and southern ends of the transepts, the lower 
 order, Corinthian, is continued into porticoes of six fluted columns, standing, in plan, on 
 the segment of a circle, and crowned with a semi-dome. In the upper order are two 
 pediments, the south sculptured with the Phcenix, and the north with the royal arms 
 and regalia ; and on each side are five statues of the Apostles. The main building fs 
 surmounted with a balustrade, not in Wren's design, the obtrusion of which by the 
 Commissioners caused the architect to say : " I never designed a balustrade ; ladies 
 think nothing well without an edging." 
 
 The Cathedral was scientifically secured from lightning, according to the suggestion of the Royal 
 Society, in 1769. The seven iron scrolls supporting the ball and cross are connected with other rods 
 (used merely as conductors), which unite them with several large bars descending obliquely to the 
 stone-work of the lantern, and connected by an iron ring with four other iron bars to the lead covering 
 of the great cupola, a distance of forty-eight feet; thence the communication is continued by the rain- 
 water pipes to the lead-covered roof, and thence by lead water-pipes which pass into the earth; thus 
 completing the entire communication from the cross to the ground, partly through iron and partly 
 through lead. On the clock-tower a bar of iron connects the pine-apple at the top with the iron stair- 
 case, and thence with the lead on the roof of the church. The bell-tower is similarly protected. By these 
 means the metal used in the building is made available as conductors ; the metal employed merely for 
 that purpose being exceedingly small in quantity. (Times, Sejrt. 8, 1842, abridged.) 
 
 The height to the top of the cross is thrice the height of the roof, or 365 feet from 
 the ground, 356 from the floor of the church, and 375 from that of the crypts. In 
 most accounts the height is stated 404 feet, which may be taken from the bottom 
 of the foundations, or the level of the Thames. In height it stands third, exceeding 
 the Pantheon by 70 feet ; about equalling St. Sophia, but falling short of the Florence 
 cupola by 50 feet, and of St. Peter's by 150. Weale's London, p. 186. 
 
 The following account of the constructive details is from Mr. Joseph Gwilt's 
 Encyclopcedia of Architecture : 
 
 " The entrances from the transepts lead into vestibules, each communicating with the centre, and its 
 aisles formed between two massive piers and the walls at the intersections of the transepts with the 
 choir and nave. The eight piers are joined by arches springing from one to the other, so as to form an 
 octagon at their springing points ; and the angles between the arches, instead of rising vertically, sail 
 over as they rise and form pendentives, which lead, at their top, into a circle on the plan. Above this 
 a wall rises in the form of a truncated cone, which, at the height of 168 feet from the pavement, 
 terminates in a horizontal cornice, from which the interior dome springs. Its diameter is 100 feet, and 
 it is 60 feet in height, in the form of a paraboloid. Its thickness is 18 inches, and it is constructed of 
 brickwork. From the haunches of this dome, 200 feet above the pavement of the church, another cone 
 of brickwork commences, 85 feet high, and 94 feet diameter at the bottom. This cone is pierced with 
 apertures, as well for the purpose ot diminishing its weight as for distributing light between it and the 
 outer dome. At the top it is gathered into a dome, in the form of a hyperboloid, pierced near the 
 vertex with an aperture 12 feet in diameter. The top of this cone is 285 feet from the pavement, and 
 carries a lantern 65 feet high, terminating in a dome, whereon a ball and (aveline) cross is raised. The 
 last-named cone is provided with corbels, sufficient in number to receive the hammer-beams of the 
 external dome, which is of oak, and its base 220 feet from the pavement, its summit being level wMi 
 the top of the cone. In form it is nearly hemispherical, and generated by radii 57 feet in length, whose 
 centres are in a horizontal diameter, passing through its base. The cone and the interior dome are 
 restrained in their lateral thrust on the supports by four tiers of strong iron chains (weighing 95 cwt. 
 3 qrs. 23 Ibs.), placed in grooves prepared for their reception, and run with lead. The lowest of these 
 is inserted in the masonry round their common base, and the other three at different heights on the 
 exterior of the cone. Externally, the intervals of the columns and pilasters are occupied by windows 
 and niches, with horizontal and semicircular heads, and crowned with pediments.
 
 CHURCHES ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. Ill 
 
 " Over the intersection of the nave and transepts for the external work, and for a height of 25 feet 
 above the roof of the church, a cylindrical wall rises, whose diameter is 146 feet. Between it and the 
 lower conical wall was a space, but at intervals they are connected by cross walls. This cylinder is 
 quite plain, but perforated by two courses of rectangular apertures. On it stands a peristyle of thirty 
 columns of the Corinthian order, 40 feet high, including bases and capitals, with a plain entablature 
 crowned by a balustrade. In this peristyle, every fourth intercolumniation is filled up solid, with a 
 niche, and connexion is provided between it and the wall of the lower cone. Vertically over the 
 base of that cone, above the peristyle, rises another cylindrical wall, appearing above the balustrade. It is 
 ornamented with pilasters, between which are two tiers of rectangular windows. Prom this wall the 
 external dome springs. The lantern receives no support from it. It is merely ornamental, differing 
 entirely in that respect from the dome of St. Peter's. Externally the dome is of wood, covered with 
 lead ; at its summit is The Golden Gallery (with gilt railing), where the lantern commences. 
 
 " The interior of the nave and choir are each designed with three arches longitudinally springing from 
 piers, strengthened, as well as decorated, on their inner faces by an entablature, whose cornice reigns 
 throughout the nave and church. Above this entablature, and breaking with it over each pilaster, is a 
 tall attic, from projections on which spring semicircular arches which are formed into arcs doitbleaux. 
 Between the last, pendentives are formed, terminated by horizontal cornices. Small cupolas of less 
 height than their semi-diameter, are formed above these cornices. In the upright plane space on the 
 walls above the main arches of the nave, choir, and transepts, a clerestory is obtained over the attic 
 order, whose form is generated by the rising of the pendentives." 
 
 Mr. Wightwick, in a paper read to the Institute of British Architects, says : 
 
 " It was by command of the Popish Duke of York, that the north and south chapels, near the west- 
 ern end, were added, to the reduction of the nave aisles, and the lamentable injury of the return fronts of 
 the two towers, which therefore lost in apparent elevation, by becoming commingled with pieces of pro- 
 jecting facade on the north and south sides. Thus were produced the only defects in the longitudinal 
 fronts of the church. The independence of the towers is destroyed ; their vertical emphasis oblite- 
 rated ; and a pair of excrescences is the consequence which it were well to cut away. All that could be 
 done to diminish the evil was accomplished; but no informed eye can view the perspective of the Cathe- 
 dral from the north-west or south-west, without seeing how no architect, who only admitted a 
 'variety of uniformities,' could have intentionally formed a distinct component in an exterior of other- 
 wise uniform parts, by a tower having only one wing, and that, too, flush with its face ! With this ex- 
 ception, the general mass of the cathedral is faultless, i.e., as the result of a conciliation between the 
 architect's feeling for the Roman style, and his compelled obedience to the shape prescribed. With this 
 consideration the grand building under notice must be judged. This it is which excuses the application 
 of the upper order as a mere screen to conceal the clerestory and flying buttresses ; for it must be ad- 
 mitted that uninterrupted altitude of the bulk, in the same plane, is absolutely necessary to the sub- 
 structure of the majestic dome, which is indeed the very crown of England's architectural glory. The 
 four projections which fill out the angles formed by the intersecting lines of the cross, finely buttress 
 up the mountain of masonry above ; and the beautiful semicircular porticoes of the transepts still fur- 
 ther carry out the sentiment of stability. 
 
 " As to the dome in itself, it stands supreme on earth. The simple stylobate of its tambour ; its unin- 
 terrupted peristyle, charmingly varied by occasionally solid intervening masonry, so artfully masking 
 the buttress-work as to combine at once an appearance of elegant lightness with the visible means of con- 
 fident security ; all these, with each subsequently ascending feature of the composition, leave us to 
 wonder how criticism can have ever spoken in qualified terms of Wren's artistic proficiency. 
 
 "The western front must be criticised as illustrating, in great measure, a Gothic idea Romanized. 
 Instead of twin spires (as at Lichfield), we have two pyramidal piles of Italian detail ; instead of the 
 high-pointed gable between, we have the classic pediment, as lofty as may be ; the coupled columns and 
 pilasters answer to the Gothic buttresses ; and a minute richness and number of parts, with picturesque 
 breaks in the entablatures (though against the architect's expressed principles), are introduced in com- 
 pliance with the general aspect and vertical expression of the Gothic facade." 
 
 The ascent to the Whispering Gallery is by 260 steps j to the outer, or highest 
 Golden Gallery, 560 steps : and to the Ball, 616 steps. 
 
 The Library, in the gallery over the southern aisle, was formed by Bishop Compton, 
 whose portrait it contains. Here are about 7000 volumes, besides some manuscripts 
 belonging to Old St. Paul's. The room has some fine brackets, and pilasters with 
 flowers, exquisitely carved by Gibbons ; and the floor consists of 2300 pieces of oak, 
 parquetted, or inlaid without nails or pegs. At the end of this gallery is a Geometrical 
 Staircase, of 110 steps, built by Wren, for private access to the Library. In crossing 
 thence to the northern gallery, a fine view is gained of the entire vista of the Cathe- 
 dral from west to east. You then reach the Model Boom, where are Wren's first 
 design for St. Paul's, and some of the tattered flags formerly suspended beneath the 
 dome. Returning to the southern gallery, a staircase leads to the south-western cam- 
 panile tower, where is the Clock Room. 
 
 The Clock is remarkable for the magnitude of its wheels, and fineness of works, 
 and cost 300Z. It was made by Langley Bradley in 1708 : it has two dial-plates, one 
 south, the other west ; each is 51 feet in circumference, and the hour-numerals are 
 2 feet 2| inches in height. The minute-hands are 9 feet 8 inches long, and weigh 
 75 Ibs. each ; and the hour-hands are 5 feet 9 inches long, and weigh 44 Ibs. each. 
 The pendulum is 16 feet long, and the bob weighs 180 Ibs. ; yet it is suspended by a 
 spring no thicker than a shilling : its beat is 2 seconds a dead beat, 30 to a minute, 
 instead of 60.
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The Clock, " going eight days," strikes the hour on the Great Sell* suspended 
 about 40 feet from the floor : the hammer lies on the outside brim of the bell ; it has 
 a large head, weighs 145 Ibs., is drawn by a wire at the back part of the clockwork, 
 and falls again by its own weight npon the bell. The clapper weighs 180 Ibs. The 
 hour struck by this clock has been heard, in the silence of midnight, on the terrace of 
 Windsor Castle. (See p. 45.) Below the Great Bell are two smaller bells, on which 
 the clock strikes the quarters : the larger of these weighs 24 c\vt. 2 qrs. 25 Ibs. : the 
 smaller, 12 cwt. 2 qrs. 9 Ibs. The northern tower contains the bells tolled for prayers. 
 
 The Whispering Gallery is reached by returning towards the dome, and again 
 ascending. Here a low whisper, uttered on one side, may be distinctly heard at 
 the opposite side, of the gallery. The phenomenon is thus explained by Dr. Paris : 
 
 " M shows the situation of the mouth of the speaker, and E that of 
 the ear of the hearer. Now since sound radiates in all directions, a part 
 of it will proceed directly from M to E, while other rays of it will proceed 
 from M to u, and from M to z, &c. ; but the ray that impinges upon a 
 will be reflected to E, while that which first touches z will be reflected 
 to y and from thence to E ; and so of all intermediate rays, which are 
 omitted in the figure to avoid confusion. It is evident therefore, that 
 the sound at E will be much stronger than if it had proceeded immedi- 
 ately from M without the assistance of the dome ; for, in that case, the 
 rays at z and u would have proceeded in straight lines, and consequently 
 could never have arrived at the point E." Philosophy in Sport made 
 Science in Earnest, p. 310. 
 
 The organ, built by Bernard Schmydt, in 1694, at a cost of 20001., was originally 
 placed upon the wrought-iron screen which separates the choir from the nave, where 
 it marred the full effect of the imposing architectural merits of the edifice. From 
 Dr. Rimbault's clever book on The Organ we learn that Sir Christopher Wren himself 
 was averse from placing it over the screen. There it is stated : 
 
 " In consequence of the reputation which ' Father Smith' had acquired by these instruments, he 
 was made choice of to build an organ for St. Paul's Cathedral, then in the course of erection. A place was 
 accordingly fitted up for him in the Cathedral to do the work in, but it was a long time before he could 
 proceed with it, owing to a contention between Sir Christopher Wren and the Dean and Chapter. Sir 
 Christopher Wren wished the organ to be placed on one side of the choir, as it was in the old Cathedral, 
 that the whole extent and beauty of the building might be had at one view. The Dean, on the 
 contrary, wished to have it at the west-end of the choir ; and Sir Christopher, after using every effort 
 and argument to gain his point, was at last obliged to yield. Smith, according to his instructions, 
 began the organ, and when the pipes were finished found that the case was not spacious enough to con- 
 tain them all ; and Sir Christopher, tender of his architectural proportions, would not consent to let the 
 case be enlarged to receive them, declaring the beauty of the building to be already spoilt by the box 
 of whistles." 
 
 Steele suggested, in a paper in the Spectator, that the organ should be placed over 
 the great west entrance, and be constructed on so majestic a scale as to resound 
 throughout the whole of the Cathedral. It has been removed to the first arch from 
 the altar on the north side of the choir, the position chosen by Wren himself, as 
 shown in a drawing lately discovered, and preserved among the Cathedral records. This 
 instrument, though deservedly regarded as a chef-d'oeuvre at the time of its completion, 
 was singularly deficient in most of the mechanical appliances for an easy and effective 
 performance now in vogue in organs of comparatively recent date. An enormous 
 organ, built for the Alhambra, Leicester-square, has also been placed in the south 
 transept : it is intended for the use of the Special Evening Services, and the Annual 
 Services under the dome. 
 
 The Monuments (exceeding forty) have been for the most part voted by Parliament 
 in honour of naval and military officers ; there are a few also to authors and artists, 
 and philanthropists. But, in general, while civil eminence has been commemorated in 
 Westminster Abbey, St. Paul's has been made a Pantheon for our heroes. At the 
 entrance of the choir is a colossal statue of John Howard, with an inscription by 
 Samuel Whitbread, this being the first monument erected in the church (1796) ; at a 
 corresponding point is a colossal statue of Dr. Johnson, the inscription by Dr. Parr : 
 both statues are by Bacon, R.A. : Howard with his keys, is often mistaken for St. 
 
 * The New Great Tom of Lincoln, cast in 1834, is 6 cwt. heavier than the Great Bell of St. Paul's. 
 Its tone is generally considered to be about the same as that of St. Paul's, but sweeter and softer. Mr. 
 E. B. Denison, however, "thinks St. Paul's far the best of the four large bells of England, though it is 
 the smallest of them, being about 5 tons ; while York is 12, Lincoln 5|, and Oxford 7\, which last is a 
 remarkably bad bell." Treatise on Clock and Watch Making, 1850.
 
 CHURCHES, ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 Peter ; and Johnson, with his scroll, for St. Paul. Near Howard is a statue of Hallam, 
 the historian, by Theed. At opposite piers are statues of Sir Joshua Reynolds, by 
 Flaxman, R.A., and Sir William Jones, by Bacon, R.A. Under the great choir arch is 
 a monument to Lord Nelson, by Flaxman ; the statue is characteristic, but the figures 
 about the pedestal are absurd. Opposite is a monument to Lord Cornwallis, by Rossi, 
 R.A. : the Indian river gods are most admired. In the soutb transept are monuments 
 to Sir Ralph Abercrombie and Lord Collingwood, by Sir R. Westmacott, R.A., and 
 to Lord Howe, by Flaxman, R.A. ; statue of Lord Heathfield, by Rossi, R.A. ; 
 monument to Sir John Moore, by Bacon, R.A.; statue of Sir W. Hoste, by Campbell ; 
 and Major-General Gillespie, by Chantrey, R.A. In the north transept, the principal 
 are monuments to Lord Rodney and to Captains Mosse and Riou, by Rossi, R.A. ; 
 Capt. Westcott, by Banks, R.A. ; Gen. Ponsonby, a graceful composition, by Baily, 
 R.A. ; Major-Gen. A. Gore and J. B. Skerrett, by Chantrey, R.A. ; statue of Earl St. 
 Vincent, by Baily, R.A. ; Gen. Picton, who fell at Waterloo, by Gahaghan ; Admiral 
 Duncan, an elegant figure, by Sir R. Westmacott, R.A. ; Major-Gen. Dundas, by Bacon, 
 R.A. ; and the Hon. Mountstuart Elphinstone, the historian of India, by M. Noble. 
 
 In the south aisle of the Nave is a monument to Dr. Middleton, the first Protestant 
 Bishop of India, by Lough ; and in the south aisle of the Choir is a kneeling figure of 
 Bishop Heber, by Chantrey, R.A. Here also are two statues Sir Astley Cooper, by 
 Baily, R.A. ; and Dr. Babington, by Behnes. Opposite is a statue of Admiral Lord 
 Lyons, by M. Noble. Two of the finest and most touching works here are Chantrey's 
 battle-piece monuments to Colonel Cadogan, mortally wounded at the battle of Vittoria ; 
 and Major-General Bowes, slain at the head of his men at the storming of Salamanca : 
 these are poetic pictures of carnage closing in victory. Near the great northern 
 entrance are statues, by G. G. Adams, of Sir Charles Napier, the hero of Scinde ; and 
 Sir William Napier, the historian of the Peninsular War ; and in the north aisle of 
 the Nave is the memorial to Viscount Melbourne two angels, sculptured by Marochetti. 
 
 The Crypt is now used only as a place of interment. In the south aisle, on the site of 
 the ancient high altar, is the grave of Sir Christopher Wren, covered by a flat stone, the 
 English inscription upon which merely states that he died in 1723, aged 91 : suspended 
 on the adjoining wall is a tablet bearing the Latin epitaph : 
 
 Subtus conditur hujus ecclesise et 
 
 Urbis conditor, Christopher Wren, 
 
 Qui visit annos ultra nonaginta, 
 
 Non sibi sed bono publico. Lector, 
 
 Si monumentum requiris, 
 
 Circumspice. 
 
 Obiit XXV. Feb., Anno MDCCXXIII., aitat. 91. 
 
 Beneath lies Christopher "Wren, builder of this church and City, who lived upwards of ninety years, 
 not for himself but for the public good. Reader, if thou wouldst search for his monument, look around. 
 
 Next Wren's remains are those of his son; and here is a tablet in memory of 
 his granddaughter, aged 95 : Sir Christopher was 91, and his son 97. Here are the 
 graves of our great painters. It has been remarked : " if Westminster Abbey has its 
 Poets' Corner, so has St. Paul's its Painters? Corner. Sir Joshua Reynolds's statue, by 
 Flaxman, is here, and Reynolds himself lies buried here ; and Barry, and Opie, and 
 Lawrence are around him ; and, above all, the ashes of the great Van Dyck are in the 
 earth under the Cathedral." (C. E. Leslie, R.A.) On December 30, 1851, the 
 remains of J. M. W. Turner, our greatest landscape-painter, were laid next the grave 
 of Reynolds ; George Dance, the architect, and the last survivor of the original forty 
 of the Royal Academy, also lies here, with Fuseli ; and the Presidents, West, and 
 Martin Archer Shee. The grave of Dr. Boyce, next to Purcell, perhaps, the greatest 
 English musician, is also here ; with the altar-tombs of Robert Mylne, the architect of 
 the first Blackfriars Bridge; and John Reunie, who designed the present London 
 Bridge. 
 
 In the middle of the Crypt, under an altar-tomb, Jan. 9, 1806, were deposited the 
 remains of the great Nelson : they were placed beneath a black marble sarcophagus 
 made by order of Cardinal Wolsey, but left unused in the tomb-house adjoining St. 
 George's Chapel, Windsor. It is surmounted with a viscount's coronet upon a cushion ; 
 on the pedestal is inscribed, " Horatio Viscount Nelson." The coffin, made from part 
 of the mainmast of the ship L' Orient, which blew up at the battle of the Nile, was 
 
 I
 
 114 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 presented to Nelson by his friend Ben Hallowell, captain of the Stviftsure. Nelson's 
 Hag was to have been placed with the coffin ; but just as it was about to be lowered, 
 the sailors who had borne it, moved by one impulse, rent it in pieces, each keeping a 
 fragment. Lord Collingwood, as he requested, was laid near Nelson, beneath 
 a plain altar-tomb ; and opposite lies Lord Northesk, distinguished at Trafalgar. 
 
 On the day of the funeral of the great Duke of Wellington, Nov. 18, 1852, his 
 coffin was placed on the top of the sarcophagus which covered the remains of Nelson, 
 the coronet and cushion of the Viscount having been previously removed ; and here the 
 coffin of the Duke remained nearly two years, inclosed by a wood casing. The Duke's 
 coffin was then (in 1854) removed to the middle of a square chamber about forty feet 
 eastward, almost immediately under the entrance to the choir of the church, in which 
 compartment of the crypt no interment had previously taken place. Meanwhile, the 
 Duke's tomb was prepared from the design of Mr. Penrose, the conservating architect 
 of the Cathedral. The material is porphyry, from Luxalyan in Cornwall, and a huge 
 block, originally weighing seventy tons. This has been sculptured into a grand and 
 simple sarcophagus form. Upon one side is inscribed " Arthur, Duke of Wellington ;" 
 and on the opposite side, " Born May, 1769 ; died Sept. 14, 1852." At each end, and 
 upon the porphyry boss, is an heraldic cross, which, and the inscriptions, are in gold out- 
 line. The sarcophagus is placed upon a massive basement of Aberdeen granite, and 
 at each corner is sculptured the head of a guardian lion. Within the sarcophagus is 
 deposited the rich coffin of the Duke, and upon it the coronet and cushion, and over 
 it the porphyry lid, hermetically sealed. The floor of this compartment of the crypt 
 is laid with Minton's tiles ; and in each of the four angles is a candelabrum of 
 polished red granite, surmounted by a ball, from which rise the gas-jets to light the 
 place. As you stand at the left-hand corner, looking westward, the sarcophagus of 
 Nelson is seen in the distance, and that of Wellington in the foreground. This view 
 of the tombs of two of England's most illustrious heroes at one glance is impressive. 
 
 In another compartment of the Crypt is deposited the State Car upon which the body 
 of Wellington was conveyed to the cathedral at his funeral. 
 
 1. The Car and its equipments consisted of the coffin at the summit, uncovered, and upon it the cap, 
 sword, &c. ; beneath a canopy of rich tissue, supported by halberds. 2. The bier, covered with a black 
 velvet pall, diapered with the Duke's crest, and Field Marshal's baton across, fringed with laurel leaves, 
 and the legend "Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord," the whole worked in silver. 3. The plat- 
 form of the car, inscribed with the names of the Duke's victories; and at the four sides military 
 trophies of modern arms, helmets, guns, flags, and drums, real implements, furnished by the 
 Board of Ordnance. The whole is placed on a carriage richly ornamented with bronze figures 
 of Fame, holding palms, panels of Fame, lions' heads, and the Duke's arms. Attached to the Car are 
 model horses three abreast, with velvet housings embroidered with the Duke's arms. The whole was 
 designed by the Department of Practical Art : its merits, were grandeur, solemnity, and reality : coffin, 
 bier, trophies, and metal carriage, were all real. The public are admitted to see the tomb, and the 
 funeral car, for a small fee, to defray the expense of gaslights and attendants. 
 
 In June, 1859, the remains of General Sir Thomas Picton were removed from 
 the burial-ground of St. George's Chapel, Bayswater-road, to St. Paul's Cathe- 
 dral, and there deposited in the Crypt, nearly adjoining the tomb of Wellington. 
 
 The north aisle of the Crypt is appropriated to the parishioners of St. Faith, 
 as a place of sepulture, from whom the Dean and Chapter receive a trifling gratuity 
 for each body there interred. Beneath the semicircular apsis are deposited all that 
 remain of the monuments saved from the old cathedral. 
 
 The Inner Dome (which Wren intended to have lined with mosaic) is plastered on 
 the under side, and painted by Sir James Thornhill with events in the life of St. Paul : 
 1, His Conversion; 2, The Punishment of Elymas the Sorcerer; 3, Cure of the Cripple 
 at Lystra ; 4, Conversion of the Gaoler ; 5, Paul Preaching at Athens ; 6, Burning of 
 the Books at Ephesus ; 7, Paul before Agrippa ; 8, Shipwreck on the Isle of Melita. 
 For these paintings Thornhill received only 40s. per square yard ! Putting on one 
 side the vital error hi the general arrangement, whereby the endeavour is made by 
 painting to transform the cupola into a drum of upright walls, the pictures, about 40 
 feet high, are works of merit, and the heads are painted with much force : the figures 
 are each from 14 to 16 feet high. In 1853, the restoration of the plaster- work, and 
 repainting of the pictures, were commenced by Mr. Parris,bvaidof shifting scaffolding 
 and platforms and wire-ropes, ingeniously constructed for the purpose ; the medium 
 used by Mr. Parris being encaustic, his own " marble medium," and the tone of the
 
 CHURCHES ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 115 
 
 pictures being much heightened. This labour occupied Mr. Parris three years, slung 
 in an aerie at from 160 to 200 feet high. The paintings are best seen from the 
 Whispering Gallery, by the flood of liirht which flows from the lantern through the 
 opening at the crown of the dome. When looking down into the church from this 
 point, men seem but as children, and the immensity of the structure is altogether best 
 felt. From the Whispering Gallery we ascend to 
 
 The Stone Gallery, outside the base of the dome, where the gigantic height of the 
 figures (11 feet) on the western pediment, and the outlines of the campanile towers, 
 are very striking. There is a second outer gallery, still below the base of the dome ; 
 and thence you ascend to 
 
 The Outer Golden Gallery (regilt in 1845, at a cost of 68?.), at the summit of tho 
 dome; the Inner Golden Gallery being at the base of the lantern. Through this the 
 ascent is by ladders, to the small dome immediately below the inverted consoles which 
 support 
 
 The Ball and Cross : ascending through the iron-work in the centre, we look 
 into the dark Ball, which is 6 feet 2 inches in diameter, and will hold eight persons ; 
 its weight is 5600 pounds : thence to the Cross is 39 feet ; the Cross, which is solid, is 
 3360 pounds weight. The Ball and Cross have been renewed, and re-gilt within 
 thirty years from that date. In 1862 (Exhibition year), the vergers' receipts for 
 showing the Crypt and Ball, amounted to 1160/. 
 
 The View from the Outer Golden Gallery is very minute : the persons in the 
 streets below " appear like mice j" London seems little else than a dense mass of house- 
 tops, chimneys, and spires ; the Thames being conspicuous from its glittering surface, 
 but the bridges appearing as dark lines across at intervals. Here, and at the higher 
 points, in clear weather, the metropolis is seen as in a map, with the country 20 miles 
 round. The north division of London rises gently from the Thames, to Hampstead and 
 Highgate. On the east and west are fertile plains extending at least 20 miles, and 
 watered by the Thames. On the south the view is bounded by the high grounds of 
 Richmond, Wimbledon, Epsom, Norwood, and Blackheath ; terminating in the horizon 
 by Leith Hill, Box Hill, and the Keigate and Wrotham hills. Shooter's Hill is con- 
 spicuous eastward, and, in a more easterly direction, parts of Epping Forest and other 
 wooded uplands of Essex. 
 
 When Mr. Horner, in 1821-2, made his sketches for the Great View of London, 
 painted at the Colosseum, he built for himself an observatory upon the Cross of St. 
 Paul's. He describes the strange scene from this lofty summit at three o'clock in 
 the morning as very impressive ; for here he frequently beheld " the Forest of London" 
 without any indication of animated existence. It was interesting to mark the gradual 
 symptoms of returning life, until the rising sun vivified the whole into activity, bustle, 
 and business. In high winds, the creaking and whistling of the scaffolding resembled 
 those of a ship labouring in a storm; and once Mr. Homer's observatory was torn from 
 its fastenings, and turned partly over the edge of the platform.* 
 
 Churchyard. The enclosed ground-plot of the Cathedral is 2 acres 16 perches 70 
 feet. In the area before the west front, marking the site of St. Gregory's Church, is 
 the statue of Queen Anne, with figures, by Bird, of Britain, France, Ireland, and 
 America, at the corners of the pedestal. Garth wrote some bitter lines upon this group : 
 
 " France above with downcast eyes is seen, 
 The sad attendant of so good a queen." 
 
 Her Majesty's nose was struck off by a lunatic, about a century ago, and was not repaired 
 for many years. The Churchyard is enclosed with a dwarf stone wall, on which is a 
 noble iron balustrade, 5 feet 6 inches high ; there are in it seven ornamental gates, 
 which, with the 2500 rails, weigh 200 tons 81 Ibs. They were designed by M. 
 Tijoue, and cast at Gloucester Furnace, Lamberhurst, in Kent > they cost 6rf. per 
 pound, and with other charges, amounted to 11,202^. 0*. 6d. The cost of the Church 
 
 * An accident somewhat more perilous befel Mr. Gwyn, when measuring the top of the dome for a 
 section of the Cathedral. While intent on his work his foot slipped, and he slid down the convex sur- 
 face of the dome until his descent was fortunately obstructed by a small projecting piece of the lead. 
 He thus remained until released from the impending danger by one of his assistants, who providentially 
 oiscovered his awful situation. Mr. Homer's Narrative. 
 
 I 2
 
 116 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 was 736,752Z. 2s. 3d. ; in all, 747,954?. 2s. Qd., equal to 1,222,437Z. present money. 
 Nine-tenths of this sum were raised by a tax on coals received into the port of 
 London. 
 
 The admission -fee originated in " the Stairs-foot Money," fixed by Jennings, the 
 carpenter, in 1707 ; the proceeds of which were applied to the relief of those men to 
 whom accidents happened during the progress of the works. In 1819, the sum received 
 from visitors to the body of the Cathedral, at 2d. each, was 430. 3s. 8d., which vas 
 divided among the four vergers. This fee is now discontinued. 
 
 Nearly opposite the North Door of St. Paul's Churchyard is the Convocation or 
 Chapter House of the Cathedral, where a kind of clerical parliament is summoned 
 with every new Imperial Parliament. The Chapter is composed of a Dean and four 
 Canons, or Prebends, 12 Minor Canons, 6 Lay Vicars, and 12 Choristers. There 
 are 30 Prebendary Stalls, or Honorary Canonries ; they are of great antiquity, having 
 been founded by Gregory the Great himself. Two of the brightest wits of their day, 
 the Rev. Sydney Smith '(Peter Plymley), d. 1845, and the Rev. R. H. Barbara (Thomas 
 Ingoldsby), d. 1845, were at the same period Canons of St. Paul's. In 1849, the Rev. H. 
 H. Milman (the poet) was appointed Dean, an office hitherto held by the Bishop of Llan- 
 daff for the time being. The Lord Mayor's chaplain is the preacher on all State holi- 
 days ; viz., 30th January, 29th May, 20th June, and 5th November, on the first 
 Sunday in term, and the anniversary of the Great Fire of 1666. 
 
 The State processions to St. Paul's have been very imposing. Queen Anne came 
 yearly to return thanks for the brilliant successes of Marlborough, who carried the 
 sword of state before Her Majesty; as did Wellington before the Prince Regent, on the 
 day of Thanksgiving for Peace in 1814. George 111. went to St. Paul's, to return public 
 thanks for his recovery from derangement, in 1789 ; and in 1797, in Thanksgiving for 
 naval victories. The last procession of this kind was on Nov. 29, 1820, when Queen 
 Caroline went to St. Paul's in Thanksgiving for her deliverance from the Bill of Pains 
 and Penalties. 
 
 The Cathedral is the scene of other impressive celebrations : as the Anniversary 
 Festival of the Sons of the Clergy, in May, preceded by sacred music by Handel, Boyce, 
 Atwood, and others, aided by the choirs of St. Paul's, Westminster Abbey, and the 
 Chapel Royal. The great annual gathering of the Charity children, about 8000 in 
 number, is held here in June, the amphitheatre of seats being erected under the great 
 dome : the effect of the grouping of the children ranged in their rows of seats, tier 
 above tier, with the banners of their various schools placed in order in the uppermost 
 circle of the amphitheatre, is remarkably striking. The attendance of the Judges and 
 other law officers, and civic authorities, is another impressive service. 
 
 " For external elegance/' says Mr. Gwilt. " we know no church in Europe which 
 exhibits a cupola comparable with that of St. Paul's ; though in its connexion with the 
 church by an order higher than that below it, there is a violation of the laws of the art. 
 While, notwithstanding its inferior dimensions (it would stand within St. Peter's), the 
 external appearance of St. Paul's has been preferred by many to that of St. Peter's, it 
 is admitted by all that the interior of the English cathedral will bear no comparison 
 with that of the Roman. The upward view of the dome of St. Paul's, however, conveys 
 an impression of extraordinary magnificence : though not so elevated as St. Peter's, it 
 is still very lofty : the form of the concave, which approaches considerably nearer to 
 that of a circle the height being equal to a diameter and a half, while in St. Peter's 
 it is equal to two diameters has also been considered more beautiful than that of its 
 rival." The crossing of Ludgate Hill by a railway viaduct interferes materially with 
 the view of St. Paul's. Mr. Penrose, the architect, remarks : " About 180 yards east- 
 ward of Temple Bar, the dome of St. Paul's begins to be seen, and, when fully opened 
 out a little further on, presents a combination, unsurpassed in Europe, with the exqui- 
 site campanile of St. Martin's and the suggested access to the Cathedral by the winding 
 street. It is true that the viaduct does not thus far hide any part of the Cathedral, 
 but it obtrudes itself on the sight, and destroys the spectator's pleasure in the view 
 almost as effectually. But from about 60 yards before reaching Farringdon-street it 
 actually hides more or less of the western fa9ade, and gives in exchange nothing but its 
 deep sides and cavernous soffit, at least 4-0 feet wide."
 
 CHURCHES, WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 117 
 
 In defence of this obstruction it was objected that already the steeple of St. Martin's 
 church on Ludgate-hill was constantly getting in the way when you wished to see the 
 dome of St. Paul's ; which is altogether an error, as the thin proportions of the steeple, 
 in strong contrast, add to the effect of the dome. From the east end of Bride-court, 
 Bridge-street, you get a striking view of the dome ; as well as from the Farringdon-road. 
 Annexed is a recapitulation of the main dimensions of the Cathedral : 
 
 ft. in. 
 
 Circumference of the Cathedral 2292 
 
 Height of Centre, exclusive of Dome 2JO 
 
 Height of Nave, Choir, and Transepts 100 
 
 Height from floor of Crypt to top of Cross 401 
 
 Height from Nave pavement to top of Cross . . . . . . . SSO 
 
 Height of Western Towers 220 
 
 Height of Western Front 133 
 
 Diameter of Interior Dome 100 
 
 Height of Dome (30 
 
 Height of Dome from ground-line 215 
 
 Diameter of opening at top of Dome 14 10J 
 
 Height of Lantern Gallery 274 9 
 
 Diameter of opening at top of Upper Dome 80 
 
 The following are the comparative dimensions of St. Paul's and St. Peter's : 
 E. to W. West end, Ditto, Trari- Height 
 within. in. out. sept. to top. 
 
 St. Paul's . 500 100 138 223 360 English feet. 
 
 St. Peter's . 669 226 395 4*2 432 
 
 St. Peter's occupies an acre of 227.069 superlicial feet. 
 
 St. Paul's 84,025 
 
 The Cathedral is now in course of repair and redecoration, the funds being raised 
 by subscription.* The organ and screen have been removed, and a new eastern transept 
 formed. The great central area of the dome, found by experiment to be the part of 
 the Cathedral best adapted to the voice, has been made available for Special Evening 
 Services, and 3500 persons can there be seated in chairs. The marble pulpit under 
 the dome, was given by his friends, as a memorial of the late Captain Fitzgerald. 
 The church can now be warmed by Gurney stoves, placed in the crypt, whence the 
 heated air ascends through ornamental openings in the floor. The lighting is mainly 
 by the corona of gas which was left round the Whispering Gallery at the time of the 
 funeral of the Duke of Wellington. The Cathedral was first lighted with g:is in 1822 ; 
 Moore, in his Diary, says : " May 6, Went with Lord and Lady Lansdowne, at ten 
 o'clock, to St. Paul's, to see it lighted up with gas, for, I believe, the first time." 
 
 The embellishment of the Cathedral, as originally designed by Sir Christopher 
 Wren, will consist in filling eleven windows at the ends of the choir, nave, and 
 transepts, with painted glass of the highest quality, uniform in style, design, and execu- 
 tion ; in filling the spandrels of the dome, vaults, and other suitable compartments, and 
 ultimately the dome itself, with paintings in mosaic; and generally in gilding and in- 
 crusting with coloured marbles parts of the architecture. The four great arches leading 
 from the dome, and the vaultings of the choir, have been richly gilded. The spandrels of 
 the dome, vaultings, and other compartments are to be filled with paintings in mosaic 
 upon a gold ground, by Salviati ; and the series of painted windows has been com- 
 menced with two aisle windows, by Clayton and Bell, containing life-size figures of St. 
 Peter and St. Paul. The great west window, containing the Conversion of St. Paul, 
 the gift of Mr. Brown (of the firm of Longman and Co.), is to cost 10001. 
 
 WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 
 
 THE earliest foundation of Westminster Abbey is enveloped in obscurity, but is 
 attributed by the early chroniclers to the British King Lucius, A.D. 184, or to 
 King Sebert, A.D. 616, its site being then called "Thorney Island;" but it is really a 
 
 * " The Fabric Fund " for keeping the building in repair, produces only 12002. a year : there are more 
 than 8500 square feet, or two acres, of leadwork exposed to the sun, the soot, and the weather, and the 
 bad work of the dome has demanded very extensive repairs ; there are also about 460,000 feet, or ten 
 and a half acres, of stonework likewise exposed to the sulphureous vapours and smoke of London ; to 
 
 than, perhaps, 600.000/.
 
 118 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 peninsula of the purest sand and gravel, which may be seen in the foundations of the 
 Ahbey. The Island is named from this circumstance : " Sebert, nephew to Ethelbert, 
 King of Kent and King of the East Saxons, having received baptism from the hands 
 of Mellitus, who, coming over with Austin the Monk, was placed Bishop of London, 
 pulled down a Pagan temple at a place called Thorney, from being overgrown with 
 thorns, about two miles' distance from London, and founded upon the place a church to 
 the honour of St. Peter." (Dean Buckland.) This church was not, however, com- 
 pleted until about 361 years after, by King Edgar, when it was named from being the 
 " Min ster West of St. Paul's." It was in a decayed and almost expiring condition 
 when King Edward the Confessor, in fulfilment of a vow he bad made during his exile 
 from the kingdom, erected a church and abbey in a style hitherto unparalleled in 
 English architecture, at Westminster, and, according to William of Malmesbury, the 
 earliest Norman church in the island. King Edward gave to its treasury rich vest- 
 ments, a golden crown and sceptre, a dalmatic, embroidered pall, spurs, &c., to be used 
 on the day of the Sovereign's coronation : here our Kings and Queens have been 
 crowned, from Edward the Confessor to Queen Victoria, and here very many of them 
 are buried, some with and others without monuments. The Confessor lived just long 
 enough to see his intention fulfilled. On the Festival of the Holy Innocents, Dec. 28, 
 1065, the new Abbey was dedicated, and the King, who died eight days afterwards, was 
 buried by his own desire in front of the high altar in the Church of which he had just 
 witnessed the completion. The Abbey as it now exists was for the most part rebuilt 
 by Henry III. (A.D. 1220 to 1269), out of regard to the memory of the Confessor ; but 
 it covers the same ground, and there are vestiges of the original building to be seen. 
 The remains of the Confessor were removed from before the high altar to the present 
 shrine in 1269 by Henry III. From the Fabric Rolls we gather that the outlay going 
 on at Westminster for the King's Palace and the Abbey Church was from 20,000^. to 
 40,OOOZ. a year ; or, in fifteen years, more than half a million of our money value. A 
 great diversity of materials was used. The early portion (Henry III.) was built with 
 the green sand or God-stone, which gave the name to the place in Surrey ; a large por- 
 tion, including the Jerusalem Chamber, was of this stone. Purbeck marble and Caen* 
 stone were used ; and in some of the old cloisters, magnesian limestone, similar to that 
 in the New Houses of Parliament. The enormous and massive fabric stands on a level 
 with the adjacent causeway not having a basement story, like Sf. Paul's built upon 
 a fine close sand, secured only by its very broad, wide, and spreading foundations. 
 
 From a Norman-French verse of the time of Henry III., there is no doubt that 
 during that king's reign there existed a central tower and two others at the west end. 
 Sir Christopher Wren distinctly stated that the commencement of a central tower 
 existed in his time, and one of Hollar's views shows clear indications of it. As to what 
 kind of central tower over the crossing was originally intended, Mr. Gilbert Scott, R.A., 
 concludes, chiefly from the slightness of the exquisitely graceful piers of the central 
 crossing, that nothing but a light Jleche, after the French fashion, was ever thought of. 
 Mr. Scott, who has so ably illustrated the architecture of the Abbey, says : 
 
 " Of the original details of the exterior it is nearly impossible to form anything like a correct idea. 
 The whole was greatly decayed at the commencement of the last century, and was re-cased, 
 almost throughout, with Oxfordshire stone, by Sir Christopher Wren and his successors, the 
 details being altered and pared down in a very merciless manner : and the work, thus renewed, has 
 again become greatly decayed. There is, in fact, scarcely a trace of any original detail of the eastern 
 portion of the exterior left." The Bayeux tapestry shows the Abbey-church in outline. 
 
 Dugdale, however, says : 
 
 " The Church, as far as rebuilt in the reign of Henry III., may be easily distinguished from the parts 
 erected at a later period. It consists of Edward the Confessor's Chapel, the side aisles and chapels, the 
 choir (to somewhat lower than Sir Isaac Newton's monument), and the transepts. The four pillars of 
 the present choir, which have brass fillets, appear to finish Henry's work : the conclusion of which is 
 also marked by a striped chalky stone, which forms the roof." Bugdale's Monatticon, vol. i.p. 273. 
 
 In 1862, it was discovered that in the south cloister wall of the Abbey the whole 
 extent of its lower half consists of masonry of the age of Edward the Confessor. This 
 
 * On the coast of France, in the neighbourhood of Caen, resides an old lady, on whose property are 
 some valuable stone quarries, from whence the English Commissioners proposed to purchase the 
 materials for building our Houses of Parliament. It is a curious fafct that, by some, old records in her 
 family, she can prove that the blocks of stone used in building our Westminster Abbey were derived 
 from the very same source. A Portion of the Journal of T. Raikes, Esq.
 
 CHURCHES, WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 
 
 stone of A.D. 1060 is uninjured to this day ; though the vaulting above, of the date of 
 1380, has perished considerably. Both are equally exposed to the air and to external 
 influences. The western towers, of shelly Portland oolite, are sound. 
 
 Nicholas Litlington, Abbot in the reign of Edward III., added several abbatial 
 buildings, including the Hall ; a great chamber called " the Jerusalem ;" the west 
 and south sides of the Great Cloister; and the Granary. Remains of the Jewel 
 House, built by Richard II., exist. The walls, even to the parapets and the original 
 doorways, are perfect ; the interior, however, has been altered to fit it for a depository 
 of the records of the House of Lords ; the original groined vaults remain in the base- 
 ment. The walls of this ancient strong house are 6 feet thick ; and the masonry, 
 generally, is of a similar character to that of the cloisters and other vaulted substruc- 
 tures built by Abbot Litlington. On the bosses of the vaulting in the parts of the 
 cloisters attributed to this abbot the initials X. L. may be traced rendering conjecture 
 as certain as it may be. 
 
 It has lately been brought to light that the nave of the Abbey was rebuilt in 1413 
 by Richard Whittington and Richard Harrowden (a monk of the Abbey), to whom 
 Henry V. issued a commission for the purpose. It has been plausibly argued by Mr. 
 Lysons, in his recent memoir of Lord Mayor Whittington, that this personage was the 
 very man named in the Royal Commission. The story goes that, when the King was 
 unable to repay the sums which Whittington had advanced, the creditor magnani- 
 mously destroyed the bonds. There is every reason to believe that the old Norman 
 Nave was left standing until that time. 
 
 In 1502, Henry VII. pulled down the Chapel of the Virgin, at the east end, and 
 replaced it with the beautiful chapel now called by his name. It was originally built 
 with Caen stone, and was restored within the present century, but with stone now 
 in a state of decomposition. 
 
 From the first opening of the edifice until after the reign of Elizabeth, the Abbey 
 was regarded as a safe Sanctuary : hither the Queen of Edward IV. fled with her five 
 daughters and the young Duke of York when the crafty Richard Duke of Gloucester 
 was plotting to seize the crown. "The Queen," says Sir Thomas More, " sate low on 
 the rushes, all desolate and dismayed;" whilst the Thames was full of boats of 
 Gloucester's servants, watching that no man should go to Sanctuary. On the reverse 
 cf Edward IV., in 1470, his Queen, Elizabeth Woodville, took shelter in the 
 Sanctuary, where, " in great penury, forsaken of all her friends," she gave birth to 
 Edward V. 
 
 The dedication of the Church to St. Peter (the tutelar saint of fishermen) led to 
 their offerings of salmon upon the high altar ; the donor on such occasions having the 
 privilege of sitting at the convent-table to dinner, and demanding ale and bread from 
 the cellarer. 
 
 Successive kings and abbots continued the building on the plan of Henry III., but 
 so slowly, that the west-end towers in 1714 were unfinished ; these Sir Christopher 
 Wren pulled down, and erected the present western towers, in Grecianized Gothic style ; 
 he also proposed a central spire, as originally intended, for its beginnings appear 
 on the corners of the cross, " but left oft' before it rose so high as the ridge of the 
 roof." Of the old west front there is a view by Hollar, in Dugdale's Monasticon. 
 
 " The Abbey Church," says Mr. Bardwell, " formerly arose a magnificent apex to a royal palace, sur- 
 rounded by its own greater and lesser sanctuaries and almonries : its bell-towers (the principal one 72 
 feet 6 inches square, with walls 20 feet thick), chapels, prisons, gatehouses, boundary-walls, and a train 
 of other buildings, of which we can at the present day, scarcely form an idea. In addition to all the 
 land around it, extending 1 from the Thames to Oxford-street, and from Vauxhall Bridge road to tho 
 Church of St. Mary-le-Strand, the Abbey possessed 97 towns and villages, 17 hamlets, and 216 manors! 
 Its officers fed hundreds of persons daily ; and one of its priests (not the Abbot) entertained 
 at his ' pavilion in Tothill' the King and Queen, with so large a party, that seven hundred dishes did not 
 suffice for the first table ; the Abbey butler, in the reign of Edward III., rebuilt at his own private 
 expense, the stately gatehouse which gave entrance to Tothill-street, and a portion of the wall which 
 remains to this day." Brief Account of Ancient and 2odern Westminster. 
 
 At the Dissolution, the Abbey was resigned to Henry VIII. by Abbot Benson; and 
 the King ordered the Church to be governed by a Dean and Prebendaries, making 
 Benson the Dean. In 1541, the Church was turned into an Episcopal See, having 
 Middlesex for its diocese ; but was soon again placed under a Dean and Prebendaries.
 
 120 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Mary, in 1556, dissolved this institution, and reappointed an Abbot and monks; but 
 Elizabeth, on her accession, placed it under a dean and 12 secular canons, as a 
 Collegiate Church, besides minor canons, and others of the choir, to the number of 
 SO ; 10 other officers, 2 schoolmasters, 40 scholars, and 12 almsmen, with ample 
 maintenance for all ; besides stewards, receivers, registrars, library -keepers, and other 
 officers, the principal being the High Steward of Westminster. In the time of Crom- 
 well, most of the revenues were devoted to the public service, but afterwards restored. 
 As the abbots of the monastery had in former times possessed great privileges and 
 honours annexed to the foundation, such as being entrusted with the keeping of the 
 regalia for the coronation, &c., having places of necessary service on days of solemnity, 
 and also exercising archiepiscopal jurisdiction in their liberties, and sitting as spiritual 
 lords in Parliament ; so the Deans of the Collegiate Church succeeded to most of 
 them, and still possess considerable privileges. The Chapter still have a jurisdiction, 
 not only within the city and liberty of Westminster, but also the precincts of St. 
 Martin's-le-Grand, first annexed to it by Henry VII. 
 
 We give a precis of the most ancient remains, by Mr. Scott : 
 
 " As Westminster Abbey is about the earliest work of its kind in this country, and as the building of the 
 first portion of it by Henry III. extended over a space of twenty-four years, i.e. from 1245 to 1269, it be- 
 comes important to ascertain how early in this period the style of its architecture can be proved to have 
 been defined. Now, a single entry in the documents in question has for ever settled this point. I have 
 before stated that the most advanced part of the work (as to style) is the Chapter-house, as that 
 contained traceried windows of four and five lights in a very developed form ; the tracery is not 
 confined to circles, but containing great quatrefoils, and the heads of the lights being trefoiled, which 
 is not the case in the church. Now it would be most useful to know the exact date of these windows, 
 for, though Matthew Paris gives 1250 as the year of commencement of the Chapter-house, it may have 
 spread over an indefinite length of time, and the windows have belonged to twenty years after that date. 
 Let us look then to the bills. Here we find in a roll, bearing date 37th Henry II I., or 1253, and expressly 
 called the eighth year from the beginning of the work, an item of ' 300 yards of canvas for the windows 
 of the Chapter-house,' followed immediately by items for the purchase of glass, showing that the windows 
 in question were completed in 1253, which I see was a year before the King, in company with St. Louis, 
 visited the Sainte Chapelle, at Paris, which was then scarcely completed, and the style of which indi- 
 cates exactly the same degree of advancement. I find also, that during the same year, the beautiful 
 entrance or vestibule to the Chapter-house was erected." 
 
 A ground-plan, which is made by the gradations of its shading to represent the 
 several ages of each part of the structure, shows us that the Chapel of the Pyx 
 and the whole vaulted undercroft, extending southward under the old dormitory, 
 which is the present Westminster school-room besides the lower story of the re- 
 fectory, which forms the south side of the cloister are remains of Edward the Con- 
 fessor's work, in the Late Saxon or Early Norman style. The superficial decoration 
 of the inner wall is, as is well known, of the most exquisite kind of Pointed Architec- 
 ture that of the reign of Henry III. Late Norman is only found in the remains of 
 St. Catherine's Chapel, supposed to have been the Infirmary Chapel, which are visible 
 to the east of the Little Cloister. The Choir, Chevet, and Transepts of the Abbey- 
 church, and the Chapter-house with its vestibule, belong to the great rebuilding 
 undertaken by Henry III. The eastern half of the Nave, with the corresponding 
 part of the Cloister, was built in the First Pointed manner of Edward I. Later in 
 the same style is the south-eastern angle of the Cloisters. All the west end of the 
 Nave, with the remainder of the Cloisters, and the Abbot's house (now the Deanery), 
 including the famous Jerusalem Chamber, were built in the Earlier Third Pointed; 
 while the eastern Chapel of Henry VII., replacing the Lady Chapel of Henry III., 
 was added in the Tudor times of the expiring Gothic. 
 
 The church is remarkable as marking, first, the introduction of the French arrange- 
 ment of chapels which, however, failed to take root here; and, secondly, the com- 
 pleted type of bar tracery, which was no sooner grafted on an English stock than it 
 began to shoot forth in most vigorous and luxuriant growth. 
 
 The Exterior of the Abbey is best viewed from a distance : the western front from 
 Tothill-street ; the picturesque North Transept from King-street ; and the south side 
 from College-street. St. Margaret's Church, so often condemned as a disfigurement 
 in viewing the Abbey, renders its height much greater by contrast. "Distant peeps 
 of the Abbey towers, springing lightly above the trees, may be caught on the rising 
 ground of the Green-park, and from the bridge over the Serpentine; and the superior 
 elevation of the whole Abbey is seen with great effect from the hills about Wandsworth
 
 CHURCHES WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 121 
 
 and Wimbledon." (Handbook, by H. Cole.) The importance of the western 
 towers is, however, lessened by the loftier tower of the New Houses of Parliament. 
 
 The North Transept, though its niches are statueless, is remarkable for its 
 pinnacled buttresses, its triple porch and clustered columns, and its great rose-window, 
 90 feet in circumference so as to have been called, for its beauty, " Solomon's porch." 
 From the west side of this Transept, judicious restorations are in progress. At the 
 arched doorway leading into the North Aisle terminates the portion of the Abbey 
 completed by Edward 1. 
 
 The Western Front bears the date of 1735 : the height of the towers (225 feet) 
 tells nobly ; they were used as a telegraph station during the last French war. The 
 great west window was the work of Abbot Estney, in 1498. The base of the south 
 tower is hidden by the gable of the Jerusalem Chamber, now used as the Chapter- 
 house. Parallel with the Jerusalem Chamber are the College Dining Hall and Kitchen, 
 built by Abbot Litlington. The Westminster scholars dined in the hall until the year 
 1839 ; in the centre fagots blazed on a circular stone hearth, the smoke finding egress 
 through the lantern in the roof. 
 
 The South Side is approached from Dean's Yard, on the east side of which an old 
 doorway leads into a court where is Inigo Jones's rustic entrance to the school-room of 
 the College, refounded, in 1560, by Queen Elizabeth. To the left are the old grey 
 Cloisters, with groined arches of the fourteenth century, surrounding a grassy area 
 monastic solitude in contrast with the scene on the opposite side of the Church. The 
 Ecmbrandtish lights in these cloisters are very fine ; and here the South Aisle of the 
 Church, with its huge buttresses, is best seen. The North Cloister is distinguished 
 by its trefoiled arches, with circles above them, of the twelfth century. The East 
 Cloister (temp. Edward III.) is rich in flowing tracery and foliations. Here is the 
 entrance to a chapel of the Confessor's time, and now " the Chamber of the Pyx," 
 wherein are kept the standards used at the trial of the Pyx, the three keys of its 
 double doors, being deposited with distinct officers of the Exchequer. The groined 
 roofs are supported by llomanesque or semicircular arches, and thick, short, round 
 shafts. 
 
 Eastward is the magnificent entrance to the Chapter-house, which is to be repaired 
 tinder the direction of Mr. Scott. Its beauty is evident, notwithstanding its neglected 
 condition. In the course of the works, the architect has discovered the ancient 
 entrance to the dormitory, which he re-opened, and restored as the entrance to the 
 library. This has enabled him to get rid of the modern entrance to the library, which 
 was cut through the groining of this passage, leading to the vestibule of the Chapter- 
 house. 
 
 The Interior. The best entrance to the Abbey is through the little door into the 
 South Transept, or Poets' Corner ; whence the endless perspective lines lead into 
 mysterious gloom. 
 
 From Poets' Corner we see, almost without changing the point of sight, the two Transepts, and 
 part of the Nave and Choir. The interior consists, as it were, ot'two grand stories, or series of groined 
 arches of unequal height : a lower story, which comprises the outer aisles of the Transepts, of the 
 Nave, and the ambulatory of the Choir : and a higher story, forming the middle aisles of the Nave, 
 Transepts, and the Choir. The lower story mostly exhibits the remains of a series of three-headed 
 arches or trefoil-headed arcades, resting on a basement seat : and above these arcades are pointed win- 
 dows, each divided in the centre by a single mullion, surmounted by a circle. Among the marked 
 features of the whole of the upper and inner story are the mural decorations of the spandrels of the 
 arches ; above them, the gallery or triforium ; and over this a clerestory of lofty windows. (See Hand- 
 book, by H. Cole, pp. 45, 46.) 
 
 The Interior, viewed from the western entrance, shows the surpassing beauty of the 
 long-drawn aisles, with their noble columns, harmonious arches, and fretted vaults, 
 " a dim religious light " streaming through the lancet windows. 
 
 The general plan of the Church is cruciform : besides the Nave, Choir, and Tran- 
 septs, it contains 12 chapels, the principal of which are those dedicated to St. Edward 
 of England, to the Blessed Virgin (Henry VII.'s), the easternmost building, and those 
 in the northern and southern sides of the building : four on the south, viz., those of 
 St. Blaise, St. Benedict, St. Edmund, and St. Nicholas ; on the north those of St. 
 Andrew, ^t. Michael, St. John the Evangelist, St. Erasmus, St. John the Baptist, 
 and St. Paul. Of these, 10 are nearly filled with monumental tombs ; the Chapel
 
 122 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of Henry VII. containing but the monument of its founder ; and that of St. Paul 
 having but one tomb. 
 
 The South Transept is less decorated than its fellow on the north ; and the lower 
 part is concealed by the Library and Chapter-house. Here, in what is appropriately 
 termed Poets' Corner, are the graves or monuments of the majority of our greatest 
 poets, from Chaucer to Campbell. To the right of the entrance-door is the tomb of 
 " the Father of English Poetry " (d. 1400) : it is a dingy and greasy recess, on which 
 may be traced with the finger Galfridus Chaucer, the only part of the inscription 
 which was originally chiselled; the other lines have disappeared. This memorial was 
 partly placed here in 1556, by Nicholas Brigham, a student at Oxford, and a poet, 
 too : the altar-tomb originally covered Chaucer's remains, removed from here by 
 Brigham, who placed over it the canopy : it is altogether in decay, but in 1850 was 
 proposed to be restored. Nearer the door is the large monument erected by 
 Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, to Dryden, whose name it simply bears, with 
 a noble bust of him by Scheemakers. Pope wrote for the pedestal this couplet : 
 
 "This Sheffield raised : the sacrod dust below 
 Was DryUen once : the rest, who does not know ? " 
 
 Next is a wreathed urn, by Bushnell, erected by George Duke of Buckingham over 
 Abraham Cowley, as the Latin inscription declares, the Pindar, Horace, and Virgil of 
 England : this full-blown flattery, by Dean Sprat, greatly provoked Dr. Johnson. 
 From Chaucer's tomb, eastward, the monuments are placed as follows : To John 
 Philips, who wrote The Splendid Shilling, Cider, and other poems : profile in relief, 
 within a wreath of apple and laurel leaves. Barton Booth, the eminent actor, the 
 original Cato in Addison's play : a bust, erected by Booth's widow. Michael Drayton, 
 who wrote the Polyolbion : a bust on pediment, with a beautiful epitaph, attributed 
 to Dryden ; erected at the expense of Clifford, Countess of Dorset, who also put up a 
 monument to Edmund Spenser, author of the faerie Queene : tablet and pediment, 
 renewed in marble in 1778. Spenser was the second poet interred in the Abbey ; he 
 "died for lake of bread," in King-street, Westminster, and was buried here by 
 Devereux, Earl of Essex. Ben Jonson : medallion on the wall, by Rysbrack, after 
 Gibbs ; " rare Ben Jonson !" inscribed beneath the head. Samuel Butler, author of 
 Hudibras : bust, placed here by Alderman Barber, the patriotic printer (see ALDER- 
 MAN, p. 5). John Milton, buried in St. Giles's Church, Cripplegate : bust and 
 tablet, erected by Mr. Auditor Benson, who, " in the inscription, has bestowed more 
 words upon himself than upon Milton." Thomas Gray, buried at Stoke Pogeis : a 
 figure of the Lyric Muse holding a medallion of the poet, by Bacon, K.A., with 
 inscription by William Mason, Gray's biographer, who lies next : profile medallion, 
 with inscription by Bishop Hurd. Matthew Prior : bust by Coysevox, presented to Prior 
 from Louis XIV. ; and statues of Thalia and Clio, by Rysbrack. St. Evremond, the 
 French Epicurean wit : bust and tablet ; and below it, profile medallion, by Chantrey, 
 R.A., of Granville Sharp, Negro Slavery Abolitionist, erected by the African Institu- 
 tion of London. Thomas Shadwell, poet-laureate early in the reign of William III., 
 buried at Chelsea : but crowned with bays, above Prior's monument. Christopher 
 Anstey, author of the Neiv Bath Guide : tablet on the next column ; and at the back 
 of St. Evreinond's monument, a tablet to Mrs. Pritchard, the eminent tragic actress. 
 William Shakspeare : the subscription monument j a statue by Scheemakers, after 
 Kent, with absurd and pedantic accessories : the lines on the scroll are from the play 
 of the Tempest. James Thomson, buried in Richmond (Surrey) Church : statue, paid 
 for by a subscription edition of his Seasons, &c., in 1762. Nicholas Rowe, dramatist 
 and poet-laureate (George I.), and his daughter Charlotte : busts by Rysbrack ; in- 
 scription by Pope. John Gay, who wrote the Beggars' Opera : winged boy and 
 medallion portrait, erected by the Duke and Duchess of Queensbury : the scoffing 
 couplet, " Life's a jest," is Gay's own unworthy composition ; the lines beneath it are 
 by Pope. Oliver Goldsmith, poet, dramatist, and essayist : medallion by Nollekens, 
 R.A., over doorway to the Chapel of St. Blaise ; the place chosen by Sir Joshua Rey- 
 nolds ; the Latin inscription written by Dr. Johnson. John Duke of Argyll : statues 
 of the warrior and orator as a Roman, with History, Eloquence, Britannia, &c., by 
 Roubiliac : Canova said of the figure of Eloquence : " This is one of the noblest
 
 CHURCHES-WESTMINSTER AJ1BEY. 123 
 
 statues I have seen in England." George Frederick Handel, the great musician : 
 statue, beneath a winged harper and stupendous organ ; the last work of Roubiliac, 
 who took the mould from Handel's face after death. Above the niche is a record of 
 the " Commemoration," in 1784 ; the gravestone is beneath. Joseph Addison, buried 
 in Henry Vll.'s Chapel: a poor statue on pedestal, by Westmacott, R.A. Addison's 
 visits here are ever to be remembered -. " When I am in a serious humour," writes he, 
 " I very often walk by myself in Westminster Abbey, where the gloominess of the 
 place, and the use to which it is applied, with the solemnity of the building, and the 
 condition of the people who lie in it, are apt to fill the mind with a kind of melan- 
 choly, or rather thoughtfulness, that is not disagreeable." Isaac Barrow, " the unfair 
 preacher," temp. Charles II. : bust and tablet. Sir Richard Coxe, Taster (of food) to 
 Queen Elizabeth and James I. : marble tablet. Isaac Casaubon, the learned editor of 
 Persius and Polybius : marble monument. Camden, the great English antiquary, 
 and a Master of Westminster School : half-length figure ; buried before St. Nicholas's 
 Chapel. David Garrick, the eminent actor : statue, with medallion of Shakspeare ; a 
 coxcombical piece of art. 
 
 The most remarkable gravestones in the South Transept are those of Richard 
 Cumberland, Richard Brinsley Sheridan, Samuel Johnson, and David Garrick and his 
 wife ; " Thomas Parr, of ye county of Sallop, born in A.D. 1483. He lived in the 
 reignes of ten princes, viz., King Edward IV., King Edward V., King Richard III., 
 King Henry VII., King Henry VIII., King Edward VI., Queen Mary, Queen Eliza- 
 beth, King James, and King Charles ; aged 152 years, and was buryed here Nov. 15, 
 1635 ;" Sir William Chambers, architect of Somerset House ; R. Adam, architect of 
 the Adelphi ; John Henderson, the actor ; James Macpherson, Esq., M.P. (Ossian 
 Macpherson) ; William Gifford, critic ; Davenant (inscribed, " O rare Sir William 
 Davenant !"), in the grave of Thomas May, the poet, whose body was disinterred, and 
 his monument destroyed, at the Restoration ; Francis Beaumont, " Fletcher's asso- 
 ciate " and Sir John Denharn, K.B., author of Cooper's Hill. 
 
 Near Shakspeare's monument is a bust, by Weekes, of Robert Southey, poet- 
 laureate (buried in Crosthwaite Church, Keswick) ; and next is the gravestone over 
 Thomas Campbell, author of the Pleasures of Hope, with an exquisite statue of the 
 poet, by W. C. Marshall. Here also is a sitting statue of Wordsworth, by Theed. 
 
 Large fees are paid to the Dean and Chapter for the admission of monuments : from 
 20(W. to 3001. for a statue, and from 150Z. to 200Z. for a bas-relief; for Lord Holland's 
 monument. 20 feet square, 3001. The statue of Lord Byron, by Thorwaldsen, was 
 refused admission ; and after lying twelve years in the London Dock cellars, in 1845 
 it was placed in the Library of Trinity College, Cambridge. 
 
 " The power of granting or refusing permission to erect monuments in the Abbey rests exclusively 
 with the Dean, except when the House of Commons, by a vote and grant of public money, takes the 
 matter out of his hands. The Dean invariably refuses to allow the erection of statues, as encroach- 
 ing on space which ought to belong to worshippers, and is already uuduly encumbered with stone 
 and marble." 
 
 Over the grave of Lord Macaulay is placed a tablet, with the following simple 
 inscription : " Thomas Babington, Lord Macaulay, born at Rothley Temple, Leicester- 
 shire, October 25, 1800. Died at Holly Lodge, Campden-hSll, December 28, 1859. 
 ' His body is buried in peace, but his name liveth for evermore.' " 
 
 On the end of the gallery, westward, are the remains of a supposed fresco, a 
 White Hart, " couchant, gorged with a gold chain and coronet," the device of 
 Richard II. 
 
 T/te Chapel of St. Blaise, or the Old Revestry, which occupies the space between 
 the South Transept and the Vestibule, leading from the Cloisters to the Chapter- 
 house, is known to few visitors : its beautiful bit of sexpartite groining, and its mural 
 paintings, are very curious. 
 
 The Chapel of St. Blaise occupies the place of what is known at St. Alban's and elsewhere as the 
 " slype." At the east end of the chapel are the remains of an elaborate painting of a figure holding a 
 gridiron, supposed, therefore, to represent St. Faith ; beneath which is the Crucifixion : there is also 
 a monk at his devotions ; and the remainder of the pointed arch is filled with red and other coloured 
 zigzag grnaments, inscriptions, and devices ; and although the original altar has been removed, the low 
 elevation, with a peculiar circle in front, may still be traced. Immediately above the Blaise Chapel is 
 some .Norman masonry, a piece of the exterior of the former Abbey.
 
 124 
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 From Poets' Corner (Goldsmith first mentions the felicitous name), in passing to the 
 first Chapel may be seen, preserved under glass, the remains of an altar-painting, 
 including a figure, probably intended for Christ ; an angel with a palm-branch on each 
 side, and a figure of St. Peter ; considered by the late Sir C. L. Eastlake, P.ll.A., to be 
 " worthy of a good Italian artist of the fourteenth century," yet executed in England : 
 of the costly enrichments there remain coloured glass, inlaid on tinfoil, and a few 
 cameos and gems. The following is the order of the Chapels, only the most remarkable 
 of their monumental Curiosities being noticed. The Chapels, both on the north and 
 south sides are nearly alike, and architecturally in character with Henry III.'s struc- 
 ture : they are lighted by lofty windows, with arches enclosing circles, above which are 
 windows within triangles, also enclosing circles. 
 
 1. St. Benedict's Chapel. The oldest tomb here is that of Langham, Archbishop of 
 Canterbury (d. 1376) ; his effigies robed and mitred. 
 
 2. St. Edmund's Chapel : Tomb of William de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, and half- 
 brother to Henry III. (d. 1296), the effigies encased in metal the earliest existing 
 instance in this country of the use of enamelled metal for monumental purposes ; tomb 
 of John of Eltham, son of Edward II., but without its beautiful canopy covering the 
 whole with delicate wrought spires and mason's work, everywhere intermixed and 
 adorned with little images and angels, according to the fashion of those times, sup- 
 ported by eight pillars of white stone, of the same curiously wrought -work (d. 1334) ; 
 alabaster figures of William of Windsor and Blunch de la Tour, children of Edward III.
 
 CHURCHES WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 125 
 
 the boy in a short doublet, the girl in a horned headdress ; portrait brasses, in the 
 area, of Eleanora de Bohun, Duchess of Gloucester, as a nun of Barking Abbey 
 (d. 1399), and Robert de "VValdeby, Archbishop of York (d. 1397) both the most per- 
 feet in the Church ; alabaster figure of Lady Elizabeth Russell, long absurdly said by 
 the guides to have died from the prick of a needle; wall monuments to Lady Jane 
 Seymour (d. 1560) and Lady Jane Grey (d. 1553) ; black marble gravestone of Lord 
 Herbert of Cherbury (d. 1678) ; and Sir Bernard Brocas (d. 1470), altar statue and 
 decorated canopy. This Chapel contains altogether about twenty monuments, including 
 one of the finest brasses in the Abbey. There are also some interesting specimens of 
 enamelling on the well-known fine monument to Edward III., with metal statuettes 
 on the side opposite the entrance to this chapel. These enamels are of later date 
 (Edward III. died in 1377) and are probably of English make. 
 
 3. St. Nicholas's Chapel : Perpendicular stone screen, with quatre-foiled arches 
 highly decorated, and embattled frieze of shields and roses, once coloured; entrance, 
 over the grave of Sir Henry Spelman, the antiquary ; rich in Elizabethan tombs, 
 bright with gold and colour, alabaster, touchstone, porphyry, and variegated marbles, 
 Gothic canopies, Corinthian pillars, kneeling and recumbent figures, &c. : marble tomb 
 of the wife of the Protector Somerset; portrait brass of Sir Humphrey Stanley, 
 knighted by Henry VII. on Bosworth Field; gorgeous monument of the great Lord 
 Burghley to his wife Mildred and their daughter Anne ; costly altar-tomb of Sir 
 George Villiers, erected for his wife, by N. Stone, cost 560Z., the year before her death ; 
 monument of Bishop Dudley, his original brass effigies gone, and the figure of Lady 
 Catherine St. John in its place ! Here rests Katherine of Valois, Queen of Henry V., 
 removed on the pulling down of the old Chapel of the Virgin ; her body was for nearly 
 three centuries shown to visitors, not being re-interred until 1776. Next is the vault 
 of the Percys, with a large marble monument, designed by Adam ; here the Dukes of 
 Northumberland have been interred with great state; their funeral processions 
 reaching from Northumberland House to the Abbey western door. 
 
 In the Ambulatory, opposite St. Nicholas's Chapel, are the eastern side of the tomb of 
 Edward III., and the chantry of Henry V., where Mr. Scott discovered tabernacle- 
 work and statuettes within the masonry, and niches filled with blue glass. The entire 
 work contained, when perfect, more than seventy statues and statuettes, besides several 
 brass figures on the surrounding railing. Looking thence, in a few square feet, we 
 have specimens of Gothic architecture, in several of its stages, as it flourished from the 
 time of Henry III. to Henry VII. Through a dark vestibule you ascend to 
 
 4. Henry VII.' s Chapel, consisting of a Nave and two aisles, with five chapels at the 
 east end. The entrance-gates are of oak, cased with brass-gilt, and richly dight with 
 the portcullis, the crown, and twined roses. The vaulted porch is enriched with 
 radiated quatrefoils and other figures, roses, fleurs-de-lis, &c. ; Henry's supporters, the 
 lion, the dragon, and the greyhound; his arms and his badges : a rose frieze and em- 
 battlement. The fan-traceried pendentive stone roof of the Chapel is encrusted with 
 roses, knots of flowers, bosses, pendants, and armorial cognizances; the walls are 
 covered with sunk panels, with feathered mouldings ; and in a profusion of niches are 
 statues, and angels with escutcheons ; and the royal heraldic devices, the Tudor rose 
 and the fleur-de-lis under crowns. The edifice is lighted by eight clerestory windows. 
 
 In the Nave are the dark oaken canopied stalls of the Knights of the Bath, who 
 were installed in this Chapel until 1812 : these stalls are studded with portcullises, 
 falcons on fetterlocks, fruit and flowers, dragons and angels ; and above each still hangs 
 the banner of its knight. In the centre of the apsis, or east end, within rich and 
 massive gates of brass, is the royal founder's tomb : a pedestal, with the effigies (sup- 
 posed likenesses) of Henry and his Queen Elizabeth, originally crowned ; the whole 
 adorned with pilasters, relievos, rose-branches, and images, on graven tabernacles, of the 
 Kings and patron Saints, all copper-gilt ; at the angles are seated angels. This costly 
 tomb is the six years' work of Pietro Torrigiano, a Florentine, who received for it the 
 large sum of 15001. : the Perpendicular brazen screen, resembling a Gothic palace, is 
 fine English art : it formerly had thirty-six statues, of which but six remain. The only 
 remnant of old glass in the Chapel is a figure called Henry VII. in the east window. 
 
 From Henry VII. to George II., most of the English sovereigns have been interred
 
 126 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 here. Edward VI. was buried near the high altar, but is without tomb or inscrip- 
 tion. In the North Aisle, in the same tomb, lie the Queens Mary and Elizabeth, with 
 a large monument to Elizabeth, by Maximilian Coulte, erected by James I. 
 
 " The bigot Mary rests in the Abbey Church of Westminster, but no storied monument, no costly 
 tomb, has been raised to her memory. She was interred with all the solemn funeral rites used by the 
 Church, and a mass of requiem, on the north side of the chapel of Henry VII. During the 
 reign of her successor not the slightest mark of respect was shown to her memory by the erection of a 
 monument ; and even at the present day no other memorial remains to point out where she lies, except 
 two small black tablets at the base of the sumptuous tomb erected by order of King James I. over the 
 ashes of Elizabeth and her less fortunate sister. On them we read as follows : 
 
 KKGXO CONSOBTES 
 BT VENA HIC OBDOH- 
 
 MlltrS ELIZAI1ETHA. 
 
 BT JIABIA SOEOBES 
 IN SPB KESVBBEC- 
 
 1IOXIS. 
 
 Sir F. Madden; Privy-Purse Expenses of the Princess Mary, ifc. 
 
 Near Queen Elizabeth's monument is an alabaster cradle and effigy of the infant 
 daughter of James I. ; which King, with his Queen Anne, and son Prince Henry, the 
 Queen of Bohemia, and Arabella Stuart, lie beneath. Next is a white marble sarco- 
 phagus, containing the supposed remains of Edward V. and his brother Richard, mur- 
 dered in the Tower by order of their uncle, King Richard III. Near it is a recum- 
 bent figure, by Sir R. Westinacott, R.A., of the Dulce of Montpensier, brother of Louis 
 Philippe, King of the French. Next is the grave of Addison, whose elegant and im- 
 pressive essay on the Abbey Church and its monuments is inseparable from its his- 
 tory ; and close by is the great pyramidal monument of Addison's friend and patron, 
 the Earl of Halifax. The headless corpse of Charles I. was buried at Windsor. The 
 Protector was buried in Henry VII.'s Chapel, but in about two years his remains 
 were removed. In the South Aisle was interred Charles II., " without any manner 
 of pomp, and soon forgotten" (Evelyn). James II. has no place here ; the vacant 
 space next his brother's remains being occupied by William III. and his Queen. Anne 
 and Prince George complete the royal occupants of the vault. In the centre of the 
 Chapel, in another vault, are the remains of King George II. and Queen Caroline, as 
 it were in one 'receptacle, a side from each coffin having been removed by the King's 
 direction. In the same vault rests Frederick Prince of Wales, father of George III., 
 beside the Duke of Cumberland, the hero of Culloden. In the South Aisle is the altar- 
 tomb of Margaret Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VII., with a brass effigy 
 by Torrigiano ; a very fine altar-tomb, with effigy, of Lord Darnley's mother, who 
 " had to her great-grandfather King Edward IV., to her grandfather King Henry VII., 
 to her uncle King Henry VIII., to her cousin-german King Edward VI., to her 
 brother King James V. of Scotland, to her son (Darnley, husband of Mary Queen 
 of Scots), King Henry I. (of Scotland), and to her grandchild King James VI. (of 
 Scotland)," and I. of England. Here also is the tomb, with effigy, of Mary Queen of 
 Scots, erected by Cornelius Cure for James I., who removed his mother's remains 
 thither from Peterborough Cathedral. In the same aisle lies Monk, Duke of Albe- 
 marle, whose funeral Charles II. personally attended : the statue monument is by 
 Kent. Here likewise are interred George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham (assassinated 
 1G28), and his son, the profligate Duke. 
 
 Henry VII. did not live to see this Chapel finished ; but his will, dated A.D. 1509, 
 contains orders and directions for its completion. In several parts of the walls is 
 repeated a rebus, formed by an eye and a slip or branch of a tree, indicating the name 
 of the founder, Islip. The Chapel had, at the beginning of the present century, 
 been built only about 300 years ; within a period of thirty -three years no .less a sum 
 than nearly 70,000. was spent in repairs, chiefly of the exterior.* In 1793, James 
 Wyatt stated that the repairs, necessary and ornamental, would amount to 25,2001. 
 The restoration was commenced in 1810; contrary to Wyatt's estimate, it occupied 
 thirteen years instead of three, and cost over 42,0001. 
 
 The choristers had a right to levy a fine on any person who entered this Chapel with spurs : 
 
 * Henry the Seventh's Chapel is built of stone from the quarries between the town of Eeigate and 
 the chalk hills to the north. Webster; Geolog. Tran,
 
 CHURCHES WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 127 
 
 Bishop Finch had to pay eighteenpcnce for offending; and even the Royal Duke of Cumberland, excus- 
 ing himself with this reply, " It is only fair I should wear my spurs where they were first buckled on," 
 complied with the custom. It was made the Chapel of the Knights of the Bath, May 18, 1725 ; the last 
 installation occurred in 1811. On May 9, 1803, according to old custom, the King's cook met the 
 Knights at Poets' Corner with a chopping-knife, and addressed them with these words : " If you break 
 your oath, by virtue of my office I will hack your spurs from off your heels." 
 
 5. St. Paul's Chapel is crowded with Cinque-cento tombs, rich in marble, gilding, 
 and colour : the tombs of Sir Thomas Bromley, Queen Elizabeth's Chancellor, hung 
 with banners ; of Lord Bourchier, standard-bearer to Henry V. at Agincourt ; and of 
 Sir Giles Daubney, are among the best specimens of the period. In frigid and 
 colossal contrast with their beauty, and hiding the Raffaelesque sculptures of Henry 
 the Fifth's chantry, is the sitting statue of James Watt, the engineer, by Chantrey, 
 R.A., strangely out of place in a mediaeval Church : the inscription, which contains not a 
 word of flattery, is by Lord Brougham. Next westward you ascend a small staircase, 
 leading to 
 
 6. Edu-ard tJie Confessor's Chapel, in the rear of the high altar of the Abbey. A 
 square of red tiles marks the site of St. Edward's altar, which was standing at the 
 coronation of Charles II., and used as the depositary of the regalia. In the centre is 
 the Shrine of the Confessor, erected at the expense of Henry III., and enriched with 
 mosaic, priceless jewels, and images of gold and silver ; and bearing a Latin inscription, 
 now almost effaced. Northward is the altar-tomb of Edward I. (d. 1307), of Purbeck 
 marble, " scantly fynysshed :" it was opened in 1774, when the King's body was nearly 
 entire. Next is the canopied altar-tomb of Henry III. (1272), once richly digbt with 
 glittering marbles and mosaic work of gold, and still bearing a, fine brass effigies of the 
 King. At the east end is the altar-tomb and effigies of Eleanor, Queen of Edward I. ; 
 its beautiful iron-work, wrought by a smith at Leighton Buzzard in 1293-4, was 
 restored in 1849. To Fabyan's time, two wax tapers had been kept burning upon 
 Eleanor's tomb, day and night, from her burial. The statue of the Queen Eleanor is 
 of English workmanship, by William Torel, a goldsmith, and citizen of London. 
 There has been an attempt to prove that he was a member of the Italian family of 
 Torelli ; but the name of Torel occurs in documents from the time of the Confessor 
 down to the said William. When the beauty of the statue of the Queen is examined 
 it will be understood how acceptable is this discovery : " her image most curiously 
 done in brass, gilt with gold ; her hair dishevelled, and falling very handsomely about 
 her shoulders ; on her head a crown, under a fine canopy, supported by two cherubim, 
 all of brass gilt." The stone-work of the Queen's tomb was constructed by Master Richard 
 de Crundale, mason, who began the Charing Cross. Above the effigy was originally a 
 canopy of wood, made by Thomas de Hockington, carpenter. This canopy was painted 
 by Master Walter de Durham, who also executed the paintings on the side of the tomb. 
 
 Richard II. and his Queen, Anne of Bohemia, are commemorated by a tomb of 
 Petworth marble, inlaid with latten ; the fabric cost 2507., the images 400J., and the 
 building of the effigies of copper and latten gilt, linked hand in hand, 400 marks. 
 Henry V., who removed Richard's remains from Langley, established a Chantry of " sad 
 and solemn priests," for his soul's repose. 
 
 The altar-tomb and chantry of Henry V. occupy the east end of the chapel; 
 the head of the King, of solid silver, was stolen from the tomb at the Reformation. 
 " In Harry the Fifth's time," says Sir Philip Sidney, " the Lord Dudley was his lord- 
 steward, and did that pitiful office in bringing home, as the chief mourner, his victorious 
 master's dead body, as who goes but to Westminster in the church may see." 
 
 At the King's burial, three chargers, with their riders excellently armed, were led according to cus- 
 tom, up to the high altar. The iron gates were wrought in the reign of King Henry VI. The screen, 
 Hanked with two octagonal towers, is a mass of images of saints, sculptures of his coronation, and heraldic 
 badges. A mutilated effigy of oak lies upon the tomb ; above him are the remains of the armour which 
 he offered here in thanksgiving, the saddle-tree stripped of its blue velvet housings powdered with 
 fleur-de-lys ; the small shield, its green damask semee with lilies of France ; and that renowned 
 sore broken helmet, its crest deeply dinted with the stroke of D'Alencon's battle-axe that stunned him at 
 Agincourt, when it clove away half of his golden crown. The canopies and niches, filled with statues 
 of kings, bishops, abbots, and saints, are very fine. 
 
 The archway had formerly ornamented iron gates, made by a London smith, in 1431, 
 but now among the Abbey stores. Next, by 
 
 7. St. Erasmus's Chapel, you enter
 
 128 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 8. St. John the Baptist's Chapel, with a groined roof, coloured end wall, and sculp- 
 tured arcades. Here are buried several early Abbots of Westminster. An altar-tomb, 
 of freestone, bears the effigy of William de Colchester, wearing gold bracelets bordered 
 with pearls and set with stones, and a gold mitre covered with large pearls, and crosses 
 and stars of precious gems, a rare piece of monumental costume. Here is a large 
 Cinque-cento monument to Gary, Lord Hunsdon, first cousin and Chamberlain to 
 Queen Elizabeth ; in the centre of the area is the altar-tomb of Thomas Cecil, Earl 
 of Exeter, and his two wives, the second of whom refused to allow her statue to be laid 
 in the left side space, still vacant. The alabaster monument to Colonel Edwiml 
 Popham. '-one of the Parliament Generals at sea," was the only one spared at the 
 Restoration. Nearly all the old tombs have lost their canopies. The view from here 
 is vei-y picturesque and varied ; and in leaving the Chapel, the eye ranges across the 
 north transept, and down the north aisles of the choir and nave, through a 
 o'erarching vista of " dim religious light," brightened by a gemmy lancet window. 
 
 9. Abbot Islip's Chapel is elegantly sculptured, and contains his altar-tomb, with 
 an effigy of the Abbot in his winding-sheet. In this chapel was the Wax-work Exhi- 
 bition, which originated in the olden custom of waxen figures of great persons being 
 formerly borne in their funeral processions, then for a time deposited over their graves, 
 and subsequently removed. Other figures were added ; the sight was called by the 
 vulgar. " The Play of the Dead Volks," and was not discontinued until 1839. Next the 
 Chapel is the monument to General Wolfe, by Wilton, R.A., with a lead-bronzed bas- 
 relief of the landing at Quebec, executed by Cappizoldi. We now enter the East 
 Aisle of the North Transept, formerly divided by enriched screens into the Chapels of 
 St. John, St. Michael, and St. Andrew. Here is the celebrated tomb of Sir Francis 
 Vere (temp. Elizabeth), his effigy recumbent beneath a canopy on which are his helmet, 
 breastplate, &c., supported by four kneeling knights at the four corners ; the design is 
 said to have been borrowed from a tomb at Breda, attributed to Michael Angelo. 
 Roubiliac was found one day with his looks fixed on one of the knights' figures; 
 " Hush ! hush !" said he to the Abbey mason, laying his hand on his arm as he 
 approached, and pointing to the figure, " he will speak presently." Near this tomb is 
 Roubiliac's famous monument to Mr. and Mrs. Nightingale, where Death, as a skeleton, 
 is launching his dart at the beautiful wife, who sinks into the arms of her agonized 
 husband . her right arm is the perfection of sculpture : " life seems slowly receding 
 from her tapering fingers and quivering wrist." (Allan Cunningham.) Roubiliac 
 died the year after its erection, 1762 : this work touches every heart, but the figure 
 of Death is too literal and melodramatic. Upon the spot, formerly the oratory of St. 
 John the Evangelist, is a marble statue of Mrs. Siddons by Campbell ; she is in her 
 famous walking dream as Lady Macbeth. Here is also an alto-relievo, by J. Bacon, 
 jun., to Admiral R. Kempenfeldt, drowned by the sinking of the Royal Greorge, 1782 : 
 
 " When Kempenfeldt went down 
 With twice four hundred men." 
 
 Opposite is the colossal statue of Telford, the eminent engineer, by Baily, R.A.; and a 
 tablet to Sir Humphry Davy. Eastward is the north side of Henry the Fifth's 
 Chantry, with his coronation ceremony, and its equestrian war-group, whose poetic 
 grandeur of sculpture so charmed Flaxvnan. 
 
 The shrine of Henry V. is excellently carved. The figures, which are carried along the screen, in 
 niches, are mostly habited in long gowns, fastened by a buckled belt, and reaching to the feet, with a 
 cloak over them : others represent ecclesiastics ; and several of them have books. The coronation, in 
 a square compartment, is supposed by Gough to represent the coronation of Henry V. in this church, 
 by Thomas Arundel, Archbishop of Canterbury, and Henry Beaufort, the king's uncle. The canopies over 
 the coronation, and nine small figures, are surmounted by devices of the swan and antelope alternately. 
 The large cornices under the figures are likewise ornamented with swans and antelopes, collared and 
 chained to a tree, on which is a flaming cresset light. 
 
 Near to this Chantry is the tomb of Philippa of Hainault, Queen of Edward III., 
 in the account of its cost stated to have been executed by one " Hawkiii Liege, from 
 France," though its character is Flemish. 
 
 The monument consists of an altar tomb of dark marble overlaid with niches of open work in white 
 alabaster. These niches contained thirty statuettes of different personages, connected by relationship or 
 marriage with the queen. Nearly the whole of the tabernacle-work, though shown as perfect in the 
 prints of the early part of the last century, has since disappeared.
 
 CHURCHES WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 129 
 
 Next is the highly decorated altar-tomb and effigies of Edward III., with the 
 richest and most perfect canopy in the Abbey : it is Early Perpendicular, and 
 elaborately carved ; six statues of Edward's children remain, of brass-gilt, set in niches ; 
 the metal table and effigy are of latten ; the head of the King is eulogized by Lord 
 Lindsay as one of almost ideal beauty. The sword, 7 feet in length, and weighing 18 lb., 
 and the plain rough shield of wood, coarsely lined with buckram and rough leather, 
 recal " the mighty victor, mighty lord." The state sword and shield were carried 
 before Edward III. in France : 
 
 " The monumental sword that conquered France." Dryden. 
 
 Here, also, are three small tombs of children of Edward III., Edward IV., and 
 Henry VII. ; likewise, a brass of John de Waltham, Bishop of Salisbury, and Lord 
 High Treasurer, buried, by favour of Richard II., in this " Chapel of the Kings." This 
 is parted from the Choir by a shrine of fifteenth-century work, its frieze bearing the 
 following 14 sculptures, from the life of the last legitimate Anglo-Saxon King : 
 
 1. Prelates and nobles doing fealty to Edward the Confessor before he was born. 2. Birth of the 
 Confessor. 3. The Confessor's Coronation. 4. The Confessor witnessing the Devil dancing on the 
 Danegelt Tax in casks. 5. Edward admonishing the thief stealing his treasure. 6. Christ appearing 
 to Edward. 7. Vision King of Denmark falling into the sea. 8. Tosti and Harold's quarrel. 9. Vision 
 Emperor Theodosius and Cave of Seven Sleepers of Ephesus. 10. Edward giving his ring to St. John 
 Evangelist. 11. Restoration of the Blind, by use of water hi which Edward had washed. 12. St. John 
 giving Edward's ring to Pilgrims. 13. Pilgrims returning the ring to Edward. 14. Called " Dedication 
 of Edward the Confessor's Church." 
 
 The two upper stories of the Shrine are of wainscot, and were probably erected by 
 Abbot Feckenham, in Queen Mary's reign. The massive iron-bound oaken coffin con- 
 taining the ashes of the pious Edward, within the ancient stonework, may be seen from 
 the parapet of Henry V.'s Chapel. 
 
 Two illuminations from the life of St. Edward, in the University Library, 
 Cambridge, show 1. One end of the Shrine in which the saint was, probably, first 
 deposited after canonization, with the infirm persons creeping through the openings 
 left in his tomb for this purpose. There is a pillar on either side of the Shrine sur- 
 mounted by statues of St. John the Evangelist and Edward the Confessor. It is 
 therefore probable that the two large twisted columns which we now see at the base- 
 ment of the Shrine served for a similar purpose. 2. The side of the same Shrine. 
 The lid is raised, upheld by several persons ; and four other persons, one of whom is 
 doubtless intended to represent Gundulph, who vainly endeavoured to abstract one of 
 the hairs of the beard, are readjusting the saint's remains. His features and beard 
 are shown as in perfect preservation ; and there is a crown upon his head. 
 
 Mr. John Gough Nichols, from diaries kept during the days of Queen Mary, shows 
 that the body of the Confessor had been removed, and the Shrine, wholly or in part, 
 taken down at the Dissolution, but restored in Queen Mary's time, when the present 
 wooden Shrine, cornice, modern inscription, and painted decorations were added. Mr. 
 Scott, however, thinks the marble substructure to have been only in part removed. 
 There is, in Abbot Litlington's service-book in the Abbey Library, a view of the 
 Shrine it is feared, an imaginary one. The substructure is speckled over to represent 
 mosaic work, but the seven arched recesses for pilgrims to kneel under, which really 
 occupy two sides and an end, are all shown on one side ! The Shrine has on its 
 sloped covering a recumbent figure of the Confessor. Mr. Scott opened the ground 
 round the half-buried pillars at the west end, and found them to agree in height with 
 those at the east, which they so much exceed in diameter ; and he recovered the 
 broken parts of one of the eastern pillars, and refitted and refixed its numerous frag- 
 ments with the help of one new piece of only a few inches in length ; so that we have 
 now one perfect pillar. 
 
 Some seven years ago, Mr. P. Cunningham found in the Accounts of the Paymaster 
 of Works and Buildings, belonging to the Crown during the reign of King James II., 
 the following entry : 
 
 " Paid to Mathew Bankes, for a large coffin by him made to enclose the body of St. Edward the Con- 
 fessor, and setting it up in its place, in the year 1685, 6/. 2s. 8d. And to William Backe, locksmith, 
 for large hinges and rivetts, and 2 crossebarrs for the said coffin, 21. VJ. 7d." 
 
 "I have seen" (says Keepe) "a large chest or coffin, bound about with strong bands of iron, lying 
 about the midst of the inside of this shrine, where I suppose the body of the pious Confessor may still be 
 conserved." Keepe's work was published in 1681 ; and four years after, at the taking down of the 
 
 X
 
 130 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 scaffolding 1 , erected for the coronation of James 1 1., a hole was either accidentally or purposely broken in 
 the lid of the Confessor's coffin. "On putting my hand into the hole" (says Keepe), " and turning the 
 bones which 1 felt there, I drew from underneath the shoulder-bones a crucifix, richly adorned and en- 
 amelled, and a gold chain, twenty-four inches long." The crucifix and chain of the last but one of 
 our Saxon kings were accepted by the laet of our Stuart kings. Their destiny is, I believe, un- 
 known. 
 
 With their hacks to the screen stand the two Coronation Chairs used at the crown- 
 ing of the British sovereigns. One was made by order of Edward I. to hold the 
 Scone stone, of legendary fame, and which had been for ages the coronation seat of 
 the Scottish kings : it is of reddish-grey sandstone, 26 by 16f inches, and lOf inches 
 thick. The companion chair was made for the coronation of Mary, Queen of 
 William III. Both chairs are of architectural design : the ancient one, St. Edward's 
 Chair, is supported upon four lions ; and both are covered with gold-frosted tissue, and 
 cushioned, when used at coronations. 
 
 Mr. Surges believes that the Chair was ornamented with painting, gilding, glass, jewels, and enamels 
 in a similar mode as were the sedilia and retabulum. The gilding of the chair was effected by a pro- 
 cess not hitherto detected. After the usual " gesso " was applied, and the gold laid on by means of 
 white of egg, and the ground thus formed was still elastic, a blunt instrument was used to prick out 
 the pattern. By the aid of a dark lantern and a strong lens, the decorations have been made out by 
 Mr. Tracey. At the back of the chair are remains of the representation of a king there, seated on a 
 cushion diapered with lozenges, with his feet resting on a lion. On the dexter side are traces of birds 
 and foliage ; on the sinister a diaper of compound quatrefoils with a different subject, such as a knight, 
 a monster, a bird, foliage, in each quatrefoil. 
 
 In the Wardrobe Accounts of Edward I.'s time there is a charge by Master Walter, the painter, for 
 the costs and expenses incurred by him for making one step at the foot of the new chair (in which is the 
 stone from Scotland), set up near the altar in St. Edward's Shrine in the Abbatial Church at Westmin- 
 ster, in pursuance of the order of the King, for the wages of the carpenter and painter for painting the 
 same, together with making a case for covering the chair. The cost of this was II. 19. 7d. The coro- 
 nation-stone is placed within the framework of the chair : at each end is a circular iron handle, affixed 
 to a staple within the stone itself, so that it might be lifted up. 
 
 In 1297, according to Stow, Edward I. offered at the Confessor's Shrine the chair, 
 containing the famous stone ; and the sceptre and crown of gold of the Scottish 
 sovereigns, which he had brought from the Abbey of Scone. The Prophetic or 
 Fatal Stone is named from the belief of the Scots that whenever it was lost, the 
 power of the nation would decline ; it was also superstitiously called Jacob's Pillow. 
 The mosaic pavement of this chapel, by Abbot Ware, is as old as the Confessor's 
 Shrine : its enigmatical designs in tesserae of coloured marbles, porphyry, jasper, 
 alabaster, &c., are very curious. 
 
 The North Transept, from its number of political memorials, is sometimes called 
 Statesmen's Corner, in correspondence with Poets' Corner, in the South Transept. 
 
 The North Transept contains some important modern monuments : such are Bacon's 
 statue of the great Lord Chatham, with allegorical figures ; and Nollekens's large 
 group of pyramid, allegory, and medallion, to the three Captains mortally wounded in 
 Rodney's victory of April 12, 1782 : these are national tributes, erected by the King 
 and Parliament. The memorials to naval commanders here are numerous, and their 
 heroic suffering is usually narrated in medallion. Mrs. Warren and child, sometimes 
 entitled " Charity," for pathetic treatment has few rivals in modern sculpture ; it is 
 by Sir R. Westmacott, R.A. One of the grandest works here is Flaxman's sitting 
 statue of Lord Chief- Justice Mansfield, supported by figures of Wisdom and Justice ; 
 in the rear of the pedestal is the crouching figure of a condemned youth, with the 
 torch of life reversed, or it is better described as " a criminal, by Wisdom delivered 
 up to Justice." (Cunningham's Handbook of Westminster Abbey.) Lord Mansfield 
 rests beneath this memorial : it cost 2500Z., bequeathed by a private individual for its 
 erection. In the pavement here are buried Chatham, Pitt, and Fox; Castlereagh, 
 Canning, and Grattan ; Lord Colchester and William Wilberforce : 
 
 "Now taming thought to human pride! 
 
 The mighty chiefs sleep side by side. 
 
 Drop upon Fox's grave the tear, 
 
 'Twill trickle to his rival's bier ; 
 
 O'er Pitt's the mournful requiem sound, 
 
 And Fox's shall the notes rebound." Sir Walter Scott. 
 
 Fox's memorial, by Westmacott, shows the orator dying in the arms of Liberty, 
 attended by Peace and a kneeling negro. Canova said of the figure of the African 
 in this group, that " neither in England nor out of England had he seen any modern 
 work in marble which surpassed it." King George IV. subscribed 1000 guineas
 
 CHURCHES, WESTMINSTER ASSET. 131 
 
 towards this monument. Pitt's monument, by the same sculptor, is over the great 
 western door of the Nave. In the north aisle of the Choir, leading to the Nave, are 
 Chantrey's marble portrait-statues of Homer, Canning, Malcolm, and Raffles ; a statue 
 of Follett, by Behnes ; John Philip Kemble (without a name), modelled by Flaxman, 
 but executed after his death ; Wilberforce, by S. Joseph ; and, opposite Canning, the 
 late Marquis of Londonderry, by J. E. Thomas placed here, in 1850, by the Marquis's 
 brother. Nearly opposite is the grave of Viscount Palmerston, d. October 18, 1865. 
 
 Here are three monuments by Wilton: statue of General Wolfe, and figures; 
 statue of Admiral Holmes, in Roman armour ; and William Pulteney, Earl of Bath, 
 statues and medallion. 
 
 The more ancient monuments, of the larger size, are those of William Cavendish, 
 the loyalist Duke of Newcastle, and his Duchess ; and his kinsman, the Duke John 
 Holies. Here, too, are memorials of our old admirals, Sir Charles Wager, Vernon of 
 Portobello, and Sir Peter Warren, by Scheemakers, Rysbrack, and Roubiliac. Here are 
 busts, by Weekes, of Charles Buller and Sir George Cornewall Lewis, the latter in the 
 western porch, and adjoining the monuments to Follett, Kenible, and Lieut.-Gen. 
 Sir Eyre Coote. Next, also, are the bust of Warren Hastings, by Bacon ; Thrupp'a 
 statue of Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton ; and Sir Robert Peel, by Gibson, R.A. Here, 
 likewise, is the mural monument, by Noble, to Sir James Outram a bust surmounting 
 a historical group of the meeting of Outram, Havelock, and Clyde, at Lucknow : the 
 tablet supported by figures of a Scindian and Bheel chief. 
 
 The six lancet windows of the North Transept, painted with figures of Moses, 
 Joshua, Caleb, Gideon, David, and Jonathan, and with medallion pictures of their 
 chief exploits, were erected in memory of six officers of Sir James Outram's army, 
 killed in the Indian War of 1857 and 1858 ; another window, in the aisle to the left, 
 is dedicated to that of Brigadier the Hon. Adrian Hope. The rose-window, higher up, 
 filled with paintings of the Saviour, the twelve Apostles, and the four Evangelists, is 
 of much older date. 
 
 The Choir is in height the loftiest in England. The light and graceful piers are 
 ornamented with detached shafts filleted with brass. The triforium, or gallery imme- 
 diately above the aisles, where the nuns of Kilburn are traditionally said to have 
 attended service, is an arcade of double compartments of two arches with a cinquefoil 
 in the head ; the arches narrow towards the apse, and become sharply pointed. This 
 arcade is probably the most 'beautiful example in existence of its kind. Mr. Scott 
 says : " The spaciousness of this upper story is quite surprising to persons who see it 
 for the first time. It is capable of containing thousands of persons, and its architec- 
 tural and artistic effects, as viewed from different points, are wonderfully varied and 
 beautiful." Its convenience for public solemnities, as coronations, was very great ; 
 and it is to be wished that access to these noble triforial galleries, from which by far 
 the most beautiful views of the interior are to be had, were more freely granted to 
 such visitors as would appreciate the privilege. Mr. Surges suggests, not altogether 
 without probability, that it was in the spacious triforium that Caxton first set up his 
 printing-press in Westminster Abbey. 
 
 The clerestory windows are of two lights : the spandrels are chiselled with diaper 
 work in small panels, containing flowers in low relief. The piers of the lantern are 
 massive and grand one continuous upward line of grey marble, surrounded by sixteen 
 shafts wrought out of the main column. The bosses in the vault were gilded in the 
 time of Queen Anne. The vaulting of plaster under the lantern is by Bernasconi, and 
 designed by James Wyatt, who set up the paltry altar screen at the coronation of 
 George IV. 
 
 The pavement of opus Alexandrinum, on the altar platform, was made by a Roman artist for Abbot 
 Ware, circa 1268. An inscription on the pavement says : " Odericus et Abbas hos compegere por- 
 phyreos lapides." But for three peculiarities indicated by Mr. Burges, it might be supposed that 
 Abbot Ware had brought this present for his church from Home in its finished state ; an examination 
 will show that the Italian ground for mosaics, cippolino, not being obtainable in this country, Purbeck 
 was substituted ; that legends in brass letters were inserted in the Purbeck borders ; and that glass 
 was introduced ; facts which show conclusively that it was of Northern workmanship. Among the 
 sums paid by the executors of Queen Eleanor was an account of sixty shillings to William le Favour 
 " pro pavimento faciendo in Eeclesia West." This, it is conjectured, relates to the mosaic pavement in 
 the chapel of Edward the Confessor. Scott's Gleanings from Westminster Abbey. 
 
 The Choir was formerly hung with beautiful tapestries, and cloth of arras, which, on 
 
 K 2
 
 132 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Jan. 4, 1644, were transferred to the Parliament House, given back at the Restoration, 
 and finally removed in 1707 : a portion is now in the Jerusalem Chamber. 
 
 The Choir has some fine canopied monuments. On the north side is the richly 
 canopied tomb of Avelina, Countess of Lancaster; of Aymej de Valence, Earl of 
 Pembroke (best seen from the north aisle) ; and Edmund Crouchback, Earl of Lan- 
 caster, second son of Edward III. Aymer de Valence was one of the heroes of 
 Bannockburn, and fell wounded by a tilting-spear in France, June 23, 1323 : Gray 
 portrays his countess as 
 
 The sad Chatillon on her bridal morn 
 
 Who wept her bleeding love. 
 
 The monument was thus described by Keepe in 1683 : 
 
 " A wainscot chest, covered over with plates of brass, richly enamelled, and thereon the image of 
 de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, with a deep shield on his left arm, in a coat of mail with a surcoat, all of the 
 same enamelled brass, gilt with gold, and beset with the arms of Valence, &c. * * * Round about the 
 inner ledge of this tomb is most of the epitaph remaining, in the ancient Saxon letters ; and the rest of 
 the chest, covered with brass, wrought in the form of lozenges, each lozenge containing either the arms 
 of England or of Valence, alternately placed one after the other, enamelled with their colours. Round 
 this chest have been thirty little brazen images, some of them still remaining, twelve on each side, and 
 three at each end, divided by central arches that serve as niches to enclose them ; and on the outward 
 ledge, at the foot of these images, is placed a coat of arms in brass enamelled with the colours." 
 
 Flaxman characterizes the two latter monuments as " specimens of the magnificence 
 of our sculpture in the reign of the first two Edwards. The loftiness of the work, the 
 number of arches and pinnacles, the lightness of the spires, the richness and profusion 
 of foliage and crockets, the solemn repose of the principal statue, representing the 
 deceased in his last prayer for mercy at the throne of grace ; the delicacy of thought 
 in the group of angels bearing the soul, and the tender sentiment of concern variously 
 expressed in the relations ranged in order round the basement, forcibly arrest the 
 attention, and carry the thoughts not only to other ages, but to other states of existence." 
 In the South aisle of the Choir is part of a splendid altar frontal (thirteenth century), 
 discovered in 1827. 
 
 This is a very wonderful work of art, being most richly decorated with glass, gold, and painting, and 
 probably with precious stones, and even with casts of antique gems. The glass enrichments are of two 
 sorts in one the glass is coloured, and is decorated on its face with gold diaper; in the other 
 it is white, and laid upon a decorated surface. The great charm, however, of the work must have been 
 in the paintings. They consist of single figures in niches of our Lord and SS. Peter and Paul, and two 
 female saints, and a number of small medallion subjects beautifully painted. 
 
 On the south is the Cinque-cento altar-tomb of Anne of Cleves, one of King Henry 
 VIll.'s six wives, which is so miserable as to have led old Fuller to observe, " not one 
 of Harry's wives had a monument, and she but half a one ;" above is the tomb 
 of King Sebert, erected in 1308, and bearing two pictures, Sebert and Henry III., 
 among our earliest specimens of oil-painting, and in tolerable condition. 
 
 In 1848, the oak refitting of the Choir was completed ; the Organ over the screen at 
 the west entrance was then partly removed to the sides, and partly lowered, so as not 
 to intercept the view of the great west window. On each side are ranged oaken 
 stalls, with decorated gables, those for the Dean and Sub-dean distinguished by loftier 
 canopies, and the western entrance being still more enriched; the pew-fronts and 
 seat-ends are also carved, and many more sittings have been provided : the carved 
 wood-work is by Messrs. Ruddle, of Peterborough, from designs by E. Blore. 
 The great circular or marigold window, and the triforium and other windows beneath 
 it, in the South Transept, have been filled with stained glass by Ward and 
 Nixon ; the subjects are incidents in the life of our Saviour, with figures nearly three 
 feet high. From the cross of the Transepts, the magnificent perspective of the high 
 imbowed roof of the Nave and Choir, and the great height of the edifice, nearly 104 
 feet, is seen to the best advantage. The pavement is partly Abbot Ware's, and in 
 part black and white marble, the latter given by Dr. Busby, of Westminster School. 
 The decorations of the altar are in the Gothic style; but a classic order disgraced the choir 
 from the days of Queen Anne to the reign of George IV. The original stalls of the choir 
 seem to have been retained in a more or less perfect state till late in the last century. 
 They are shown in the view given by Dart, and in that given in Sandford's account of 
 the coronation of James II. The canopies are there supported by single shafts. The 
 sedilia are more than usually curious, from the fact that they are made of wood. They 
 have suffered much since Sir J. Ayliffe had them and the tomb of Avelina, Countess of
 
 CHURCHES, WESTMINSTER ASSET. 133 
 
 Lancaster, drawn for the Vetusta Honumenta, in 1778. There are four of them : 
 but no trace is found of a piscina. They appear to have been elaborately decorated by 
 processes similar to that which beautified the retabulum, which was discovered by Mr. 
 Blore, in 1827, lying on the top of the effigy cases in the upper chapel of Abbot Islip. 
 It is a rich specimen of thirteenth -century workmanship ; and has been restored to its 
 place at the back of the high altar. 
 
 The north aisle of the Choir, leading to the Nave, has been described as a sort of 
 Musicians' Corner ; for here rests Purcell, with the striking epitaph, attributed to 
 Dryden : " Here lies Henry Purcell, Esq., who left this life, and is gone to that 
 blessed place where only his harmony can be exceeded." On the same pillar is a 
 memorial of Samuel Arnold ; both Purcell and Arnold were organists of the Abbey. 
 Opposite is a tablet to Dr. Blow ; and close by lies Dr. Croft, another organist of 
 the Abbey, whose death is said to have been brought on by his attendance at the coro- 
 nation of George II. 
 
 Coronations. In this Abbey-church the following monarchs and consorts have 
 been crowned : 
 
 Jan. 6, 1066, Harold ; Dee. 25, William ; Sept. 26, 1087, William II. ; Aug. 6, 1094, Henry I. ; Dec. 
 26, 1135, Stephen of Blois; March 22, 1135-6, Matilda of Boulogne; Dec. 19, 1154, Henry II. and 
 Eleanor of Aquitaine; Sunday after St. Barnabas' day, 1170, Prince Henry; Sept. 3, 1189, Richard I.; 
 May 27, 1199, John; Oct. 28, 1216, Henry III., and again Feb. 1236, with Eleanor of Provence; 
 Aug. 19, 1272, Kdward I. with Eleanor of Castile ; Quinquagesima, 1308, Edward II., and Isabella of 
 France; Feb. 2, 1327, Edward HI., and Philippa of Hainault; Richard II., July 16, 1377 ; Jan.14,1382, 
 Anne of Bohemia; Oct. 13, 1399, Henry IV., and Feb. 26, 1403, Joan of Bretagne, with the sacred un- 
 guent of Rheims; April 9, 1421, Henry V., and Feb. 24, 1421, Katherine of Valois ; Nov. 6, 1421, Henry 
 VI.; May 30, 1415, Margaret of Anjou; June 8, 1460, Edward IV., and Ascehsion-Dav, 1465, Elizabeth 
 Woodville; July 5, 1433, Richard HI.; Oct. 30, 1485, Henry VII., and Mov. 25, 1487, Elizabeth of York; 
 
 George's Day, 1661, Charles II. ; St. George's Day, 1685, James II., and Mary of Modena; April 18, 
 1689, William of Orange and Mary, when Lord Danby had to produce twenty guineas at the oflertory, 
 as the purse had been stolen at the king's side [the Bishop of London put the crown on the king's 
 head, as Dr. Saucroft, the Archbishop of Canterbury, would not take the oaths to their Majesties] ; 
 April 23, 1702, Anne ; Oct. 20, 1714, George 1., who rudely repulsed Dean Atterbury's ceremonious 
 offer of the canopy and chair of state, but refused to wear his crown while receiving the Holy Com- 
 munion, saying it was indecent so to appear before the King of kings; Oct. 11, 1727, George II. and 
 Caroline of Anspach ; Sept. 22nd, 1761, George III. (the kiss of charity was omitted, and mitres were first 
 disused by the prelates) : July 19, 1821, George IV. ; Sept. 8, 1831, William and Adelaide, without coro- 
 nation feast and procession, or champion's challenge ; June 28, 1838, "The Hanover Thursday," Queen 
 Victoria ; when, for the first time since the Revolution, a sovereign was desired to lay aside the crown be- 
 fore receiving the Holy Communion ; and a procession of coaches was substituted for the ancient proces- 
 sion on foot. Walcott's Guide to the Cathedrals, 1858. 
 
 Upon most occasions, the sacred ceremony was followed by a banquet in the Great 
 Hall of the Palace of Westminster. The last of these festivities was that at the coro- 
 nation of George IV. On the night previous, the King reposed on a couch in the 
 tapestry-room of the Speaker's official residence in the Old Palace ; and next morning 
 the royal procession advanced along a raised platform, covered by an awning, from West- 
 minster Hall to the Abbey Church, where the King was crowned ; and then returned 
 to the Great Hall, where the banquet was served. 
 
 The entire cost of this Coronation is stated to have exceeded a quarter of a million, or more than 
 268,OOOJ. It has been commemorated in one of the most costly works of pictorial art ever produced 
 the Illustrated History of the Coronation of George IV., by Sir George Nayler : containing forty-five 
 splendidly coloured plates, atlas folio, price fifty guineas per copy. Sir George lost a considerable sum 
 by the publication, although Government voted 50001. towards the expenses. Sir George also under- 
 took a much more costly memorial of this Coronation for George IV., but it was never completed. 
 The portion executed contains seventy-three coloured drawings, finished like enamels, on velvet and 
 white satin : the portraits are very accurate likenesses, and many of the coronets have rubies, emeralds, 
 pearls, and brilliants set in gold ; each portrait costing fifty guineas, first-hand. H. Bonn's Catalogue. 
 
 At the coronation of Queen Victoria, temporary reception apartments were erected 
 at the great western entrance to the Abbey Church ; the Nave was fitted with galleries 
 and seats for spectators, as were also the Choir and Transepts ; the peers were seated 
 in the North Transept, and the peeresses South ; and the House of Commons in a 
 gallery over the altar ; and the orchestra of 400 performers in front of the organ. 
 At the intersection of the Choir and Transepts was the theatre, or pulpitum, covered 
 with rich carpets and cloth of gold, in the centre of which, upon a raised platform, 
 stood the Chair of Homage. At the north-east corner of the theatre was the pulpit, 
 whence " the Coronation Sermon " was preached. The crowning in St. Edward's 
 Chair took place in the Sacrarium, before the altar, in front of St. Edward's Chapel ;
 
 134 -CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and behind the altar was " the Queen's Traverse," or retiring-room. (/See " Corona- 
 tion Chairs," described at p. 132.) 
 
 At the altar were married the Princesses Joan and Margaret, May 2, 1284 ; and 
 Henry and Elizabeth, January 18, 1486; here were offered the spoils of Wales, 
 April, 1285 ; here, when Prince Edward was made a Knight, two knights were stifled 
 in the crowd, and the King swore him and his nobles on the two golden swans that 
 were carried up in procession, to avenge John Corny n- and conquer Scotland. Here 
 Henry V. offered the trappings of his coursers on his return from France, to be con- 
 verted into vestments. Here, August 11, 1381, the Constable of the Tower and Sir 
 Ralph Farren slew a squire who had fought at Najara, and a monk who endeavoured 
 to save him, before the Prior's stall : as in 1380 Wat Tyler's mob slew a man before 
 the Shrine. Here Abbot Weston celebrated mass in armour, when Sir T. Wyatt was 
 marching on London ; and afterwards silenced his opponents in a famous disputation, 
 saying, " You have the word, but we have the sword." Walcott's Handbook. 
 
 The Nave has almost every variety of memorial sarcophagus and statue, bust and 
 brass, tablet and medallion, mostly modern. Immediately behind the memorial of 
 Fox, on the left, as the visitor enters the great western door, are a marble bust of Sir 
 James Mackintosh, and busts of Zachary Macaulay, Tierney, and other public men. 
 In the southern aisle of the Choir, leading to the Nave, 5s Bird's monument to Sir 
 Cloudesley Shovel, personifying " the brave, rough English Admiral" by a periwigged 
 beau, which was so justly complained of by Addison and the pious Dr. Watts. Opposite 
 is Behnes's bust of Dr. Bell, the founder of the Madras System of Education ; and near 
 it is the monument .to Thomas Thynne, of Longleat, Wilts : he was shot in his coach, at 
 the end of the Haymarket, Sunday, Feb. 12, 16S2, as sculptured on the tomb. Here, 
 too, is a fine bust, by Le Scour, of Sir Thomas Richardson, Lord Chief-Justice (temp. 
 Charles I.) ; and a bust of Pasquale de Paoli, the Corsican chief. Here, also, are 
 the monuments to Dr. South, the witty prebendary of the Church; Dr. Busby, 
 master of Westminster School ; and Dr. Isaac Watts, buried in Bunhill Fields. 
 
 In the two side arches of the Choir screen are the monuments of Sir Isaac Newton, 
 and James, first Earl Stanhope ; both designed by Kent, and executed by Rysbrack : 
 Newton's is characterized by the celestial globe, with the course of the comet of 1681, 
 and the genius of Astronomy above it. In the screen niches are statues of Edward the 
 Confessor, Henry III., and Edward I., and their respective queens. 
 
 In the Nave north aisle is a weeping female, by Flaxman, to the memory of George 
 Lindsay Johnstone a touching memorial of sisterly sorrow. One of the few old 
 monuments here is that to Mrs. James Hill a kneeling figure and sheeted skeleton, 
 and the mottoes : " Mors mihi lucrum," and " Solus Christus mihi sola salus." Near 
 the above is the Parliamentary figure-group, by Westmacott, to Spencer Perceval, the 
 Prime Minister, shot by Bellingham, in the lobby of the House of Commons, May 11, 
 1812 ; the assassination is sculptured rearward of the figures. Here also are several 
 interesting monuments to heroes who have fallen in battle : as, Colonel Bringfield, 
 killed by a cannon-shot at Ramilies whilst remounting the great Duke of Marlborough 
 on a fresh horse ; the three brothers Twysden, who fell in their country's service in 
 three successive years; Captains Harvey, Hutt, and Montagu, who fell in Lord 
 Howe's victory of June 1 ; Sir Richard Fletcher, killed at St. Sebastian ; and the Hon. 
 Major Stanhope, at Corunna. Here, too, is a plain tablet to Banks, the sculptor, R.A. ; 
 a monument to Sir Godfrey Kneller, the painter, by Rysbrack, after Sir Godfrey's own 
 design, Pope furnishing the epitaph : Kneller is buried in Twickenham Church. To- 
 wards the middle of the Nave are the gravestones of Major Rennell, the geographer ; 
 and Thomas Telford, the engineer ; and near Banks's tablet is buried Ben Jonson, his 
 coffin set on its feet, and originally covered with a stone inscribed " O rare Ben 
 Jonson !" By his side lies Tom Killigrew, the wit of Charles the Second's court ; and 
 opposite, his son, killed at the battle of Almanza, in Spain, 1707. In the north aisle, 
 too, is a large brass to the memory of Sir Robert Wilson, the soldier and politician, 
 and Dame Jemima, his wife ; with figures of a mediaeval warrior in coat of mail, and 
 of a mediaeval lady, under canopies ; and below are two groups of seven boys and seven 
 girls ! Side by side are memorials of Robert Stephenson, the engineer, and John 
 Hunter, the surgeon, removed here in 1859, from the Church of St. Martin's-in-the- 
 Fields; the memorials are of polished granite, inlaid and bordered with brass.
 
 CHURCHES WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 135 
 
 Over the west door "is Westmacott's statue- memorial to the Right Hon. William 
 Pitt : it cost 6300Z.J then the largest sum ever voted by Government for a national 
 monument. To the left is a large marble monument to Lord Holland, by Baily, R.A., 
 erected by public subscription in 1848 ; the design the prison-house of Death, with 
 three poetic figures in lamentation, bassi-relievi on the two sides, and the whole sur- 
 mounted by a colossal bust of the deceased Lord is, perhaps, the finest architectural 
 and sculptural combination in the Abbey. 
 
 We now reach the south tower of the western front, used as the Consistory Court, 
 and Chapel for Morning Prayers. 
 
 In the south aisle of the Nave, commencing from the west, is the tomb of Captain 
 Cornewall, who fell in the sea-fight off Toulon, 1743; this being the first monument 
 voted by Parliament for naval services. 
 
 Next is the statue of the Right Hon. James Craggs, the friend of Pope and Addi- 
 son ; and Bird's bust-monument to Congreve, the great dramatic poet, erected at the ex- 
 pense of Henrietta Duchess of Marlborough, to whom Congreve, " for reasons not known 
 or not mentioned," bequeathed 10,0001. Among the noticeable personages interred 
 here, without memorials, is Dean Atterbury the place his own previous choice, being, 
 as he told Pope, " as far from kings and ka3sars as the space will admit of;" also Mrs. 
 Oldfield, the actress, buried " in a very fine Brussels-lace head, a Holland shift, with a 
 tucker and double ruffles of the same lace, a pair of new kid gloves," &c. ; to which 
 Pope thus alludes : 
 
 " Odious ! in woollen ! 'twould a saint provoke, 
 
 (Were the last words that poor Narcissa spoke) : 
 
 No, let a charming chintz and Brussels lace 
 
 Wrap my cold limbs and shade my lifeless face; 
 
 One would not, sure, be frightful when one's dead 
 
 And Betty, give this cheek a little red." 
 
 Eastward is the sculptural burlesque deservedly known as "the Pancake Monument," to 
 Admiral ^yrrell, with its patchy clouds, coral rocks, cherubs, harps, palm-branches, and 
 other allegorical absurdities. Between three successive windows are the monuments, by 
 Roubiliac, of Lieut.-Gen. Hargrave, Maj.-Gen. Fleming, and Marshal Wade, all in the 
 conventional school of allegory. Next are a good bust, by Bird, of Sidney, Earl of 
 Goclolphin, chief minister to Queen Anne ; alto-relievo and figures to Lieut.-Col. 
 Townsend, killed by a cannon-ball at Ticonderago, in his 28th year ; and a monument, 
 by Bushnell, to Sir Palmes Fairborne, governor of Tangier, with inscription by Dryden. 
 We now reach the tomb of Major Andre, who was executed by the Americans as a spy 
 in 1780; his remains were removed here in 1821 : the bas-relief shows Andre as a 
 prisoner in the tent of Washington, with the bearer of a flag of truce to solicit his 
 pardon. This monument was put up at the expense of George III. ; the heads of 
 the principal figures have been several times mischievously knocked off, but as often 
 restored. The new pulpit, on the north side of the Nave, was designed by Scott, R.A* 
 and executed by William Farmer. Its sculptural details are as follow : 
 
 The pulpit is composed principally of magnesian limestone from the Mansfield Woodhouse quarry. 
 It is octagonal, with a capping of red Devon marble. The cornice is ornamented with leaves and 
 flowers of the columbine. At the angles are figures of the four Evangelists and of St. Peter and 
 St. Paul under canopies. In one panel is the face of our Lord, in white marble, well sculptured by 
 Monro. In the other panels are lozenges containing circular medallions of mosaic work in different 
 coloured marbles. The capping of the string which runs round the bottom of the panels is of grey 
 Derbyshire marble : the string is ornamented with First Pointed foliage. The pulpit is supported on 
 columns of Devonshire marble at the angles, and a larger one in the centre ; the capitals being of Early 
 Pointed character. The columns of the staircase are of the same. The figures of the Apostles are well 
 carved. The nave has been fitted for special Sunday services. 
 
 The Jerusalem Chamber, adjoining the south tower of the Western front, is now 
 used as the Chapter-house. Its northern window has some stained glass, temp. 
 Edward III. ; and here hangs the ancient portrait of Richard II. in the Coronation 
 chair. In the Jerusalem Chamber died Henry IV., brought from the Confessor's 
 Shrine in the Abbey in a fit of apoplexy, March 20, 1413. Being carried into this 
 Chamber, he asked, on rallying, where he was ; and when informed, he replied, to use 
 the words of Shakspeare, founded on history 
 
 " Laud be to God ! even here my life must end : 
 It hath been prophesied to me many years, 
 I should not die but in Jerusalem." 
 
 King Henry IT., Part 2, act iv. sc.4.
 
 136 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Here the body of Congreve lay in state, before bis pompous funeral, at which noble- 
 men bore the pall. Here, too, Addison lay in state, before his burial in Henry VII.'s 
 Chapel, as pictured in Tickell's elegy : 
 
 "Can I forget the dismal night that gave 
 My soul's best part for ever to the grave ? 
 How silent did his old companions tread, 
 By midnight lamps, the mansions of the dead : 
 Through breathing statues, then unheeded things ; 
 Through rows of warriors, and through walks of tings," &c. 
 
 The CJiapter-Jiouse, an exquisitely beautiful specimen of mediaeval Gothic architec- 
 ture, was originally built by Edward the Confessor ; the existing walls are of the time 
 of Henry III. Fabric-rolls and other papers discovered by Mr. Burtt have proved 
 the very important fact that the Chapter-house, which is the latest part of the work 
 of Henry III., was finished ready for glazing so early as 1253 ; and a Parliament was 
 held here in 1264. The Chapter-house was the most usual place of meeting of the 
 House of Commons through the Middle Ages, until the dissolution of the Collegiate 
 body of St. Stephen had put the Royal Chapel of the Plantagenets at the disposal of 
 the Legislature. Originally lent by the Dean and Chapter of Westminster for the 
 casual use of Parliament, the building was quietly appropriated by the Tudors after the 
 reason of the loan had passed away. Room was wanted for records, and the Chapter- 
 house provided a tempting expanse of wall space. So the rich tile floor was boarded 
 over, and thereby luckily preserved ; the traceried windows were gutted and walled 
 up ; the vaulted roof was demolished by some builder, after Wren had refused the job, 
 and the whole interior choked with recesses and galleries equally concealing wall- 
 painting and carved-work. Mr. Scott thus gives the details : 
 
 It is an octagon of 18 feet diameter, and had a vaulted roof, which was supported by a central pillar 
 about 35 feet high. It is entirely of Purbeck marble, and consists of a central shaft, surrounded by eight 
 subordinate shafts attached to it by three moulded bands. The capital, though of marble, is most richly 
 carved. The doorway itself has been truly a noble one. It was double, divided by a single central 
 pillar and a circle in the head, whether pierced or containing sculpture cannot be ascertained, as it is 
 almost entirely destroyed. The jambs and arch are magnificent. The former contains on the outer side 
 four large shafts of Purbeck marble ; their caps are of the same material, and most richly carved, and 
 the spaces between the shafts beautifully foliated. The walls below the windows are occupied by 
 arcaded stalls, with trefoiled heads. The five which occupy the eastern side are of superior richness and 
 more deeply recessed. Their capitals, carved in Purbeck marble, are of exquisite beauty. The spandrels 
 over the arch are diapered, usually with the square diaper so frequent in the church, but in one in- 
 stance with a beautifully executed pattern of roses. One of the most remarkable features in the Chapter- 
 house is the painting at the back of the stalls. The general idea represented by this painting would 
 appear to be our Lord exhibiting the mysteries of the Redemption to the heavenly host. In the central 
 compartment our Lord sits enthroned ; His hands are held up to show the wounds, and the chest bared 
 for the same purpose; above are angels holding a curtain or dossel, behind the throne, and on either 
 side are others bearing the instruments of the Passion. The whole of the remaining spaces are filled 
 by throngs of cherubim and seraphim. The former occupy the most important position, and are on 
 the large scale. And on one of its sides is a statue called " St. John," said to be one of the oldest 
 sculptures in the Abbey. This was a beautifully-decorated building, with painted walls and coloured 
 and gilded arcades, and high arched windows in seven of its sides, now sadly obscured. 
 
 The restoration of the Chapter-house has very properly been undertaken by the 
 Government, under the direction of Mr. Scott. Beneath the present building, the 
 walls of which are 5 feet thick, is a crypt with walls of the enormous thickness of 17 
 feet. From a straight joint which separates the lower wall into two concentric por- 
 tions, Mr. Scott is of opinion that the bulk of the subterranean masonry is of the date 
 of the Confessor, the foundation having been enlarged for the new chapter-house of 
 King Henry III., which was coeval with the Sainte Chapelle in Paris. The crypt is called 
 the Chapel of the Confessor, but is part of the original Norman church. The crypt 
 contains an altar, a piscina, and aumbry. The outer walls are of a great thickness, 
 and solid masonry. There are no indications, as is the case in many crypts, of iron 
 rings for the suspension of lamps. Here is the Library of the Dean and Chapter, 
 (about 11,000 volumes): it was formed from the monks' parlour by Dean Williams, 
 whose portrait hangs at the south end. The great treasure of the place was William 
 the Conqueror's Domesday Book,* in excellent condition, from searchers not being 
 
 * On the night of the burning of the Houses of Parliament, in 1834, Sir Francis Pa'grave and Dean 
 Ireland were standing on the roof of the Chapter-house, looking at the fire, when a sudden gust of wind 
 seemed to bring the flames in that direction. Sir Francis implored the Dean to allow him to carry 
 Domesday Book and other valuable records into the Abbey, but the Dean answered that he could not 
 think of doing so without first applying to Lord Melbourne or the Board of Works!
 
 CHURCHES WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 137 
 
 allowed to touch the text, or writing. Here, too, were Clement the Seventh's Golden 
 Bull, conferring the title of Defender of the Faith on Henry VIII.; a treaty of per- 
 petual peace between Henry VIII. and Francis I., with a gold seal, 6 inches diameter, 
 said to be the work of Cellini ; the original wills of Richard II., Henry A 7 "., Henry VIII. ; 
 and the Indenture between Henry VII. and the Abbot of Westminster, a glorious 
 specimen of miniature-painting and velvet binding, with enamelled and gilt bosses. 
 
 Cloisters. South lie four of the early Abbots of Westminster. Here is " Long 
 Meg," a slab of blue marble, traditionally the gravestone of twenty-six monks who 
 died of the Plague in 1349, and were buried in one grave. Here is a tablet to William 
 Lawrence, which records : 
 
 " Short-hand he wrote : his Flowre in prime did fade, 
 And hasty Death Short-hand of him hath made. 
 Well cooth he Nv'bers, and well mesur'd Land; 
 Thvs doth he now that Grovd whereon yov stand, 
 Wherein he lyes so Geometricall : 
 Art maketh some, bvt thvs will Natvre all." 
 
 This quaint conceit is in the North Walk ; where also are the graves of Spranger 
 Barry, the actor, famous in Othello ; and Sir John Hawkins, who wrote a History of 
 Music, and a Life of Doctor Johnson. 
 
 East Walk ; medallion monument to Bonnell Thornton (" the Connoisseur"), inscrip- 
 tion by Joseph Warton ; monument to Lieut. -Gen. Withers, with inscription by Pope, 
 " full of commonplaces, with something of the common cant of a superficial satirist " 
 (Johnson) ; tablet to Sir Edmund Berry Godfrey (d. 1678,) buried in St. Martin's-in- 
 the-Fields ; graves of Aphra Behn, the lady dramatist (temp. Charles I.) ; and Mrs. 
 Bracegirdle, the fascinating actress. 
 
 West Walk : bust and alto-relievo, by Banks, R.A., to William Woollett, the engraver, 
 buried in Old St. Pancras' churchyard : tablets to George Vertue, the engraver ; Dr. 
 Buchan, who wrote on " Domestic Medicine ;" and Benjamin Cooke, organist of the 
 Abbey, with the musical score of " the Canon by twofold augmentation " graven 
 upon the slab. 
 
 In the Cloisters, too, are interred Henry Lawes, the composer of the music of Comus, 
 and " one who called Milton friend ;" Tom Brown, the wit ; Thomas Betterton, who 
 " ought to be recorded with the same respect as Roscius among the Romans ;" Samuel 
 Foote, the actor, and dramatist ; Aphra Behn, above-mentioned, Thomas Betterton, 
 Mrs. Bracegirdle, Samuel Foote, Mrs. Yates, Mrs. Rowe, and Mrs. Gibber, all well-known 
 professors of the dramatic art; so that the Cloisters may be termed the Actors' Corner. 
 
 Here is a wall monument, with this inscription : 
 
 " Sir Edmund Bury Godfrey, Kt. 
 
 being lost on the 4 Id. Octob. 1678 
 
 was found five days after 
 
 murdered after a most cruel and barbarous manner. 
 History will inform you further." 
 
 At the entrance of the Little Cloisters is Litlington Tower, built by Abbot Litling- 
 ton, and originally the bell-tower of the Church :* the four bells were rung, and a 
 small flag hoisted on the top of this tower (as appears in Hollar's view), when great 
 meetings or prayers took place in St. Catherine's Chapel ; pulled down 15*71. The bells 
 (one dated 1430, and two 1598) were taken down, and, with two new bells, were 
 hung in one of Wren's western towers. Litlington Tower was restored by its tenant, 
 Mr. R. Clark, one of the choir, who also erected in its front the original Gothic en- 
 trance to the Star-Chamber Court, and its ancient iron bell-pull. 
 
 Mr. Scott has recently discovered an old hall of the date of Abbot Litlington, no 
 doubt the hall of the Infirmarer's house, and probably used by the convalescent patients. 
 The garden now called the College Garden, was originally the Infirmary garden. 
 
 There are preserved several models of churches, one of which is the model con- 
 structed by Sir Christopher Wren, in the reign of Queen Anne, of his proposed 
 
 * An author of the fourteenth century says: "At the Abbey of St. Peter's, Westminster, are two 
 bells, which over all the bells in the world obtain the precedence in wonderful size and tone." We read 
 also, that " in the monasterye of Westminster ther was a fayr yong man which was blynde, whom the 
 monks hadde ordeyned to rynge the bellys."
 
 133 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 alteration of the Abbey Church, by erecting an elevated spire on the central tower. 
 
 We believe that the other models are those of St. Mary's and St. Clement's in the 
 
 Strand, St. Paul's, Covent-garden, and St. John's, Westminster. Here are also, it is 
 
 said, some models by lloubiliac. 
 
 Music. In 1784 took place the " Commemoration of Handel," in the Abbey Nave ; 
 
 and similar festivals in 1785-6-7, and 1790-91 ; and in 1834 was a Four Days' Festival, 
 
 commencing June 24, when King William IV., Queen Adelaide, and the Princess 
 
 Victoria, were present^ 
 
 " It is full fifty years since I heard last, 
 Handel, thy solemn and divinest strain 
 Eoll through the long nave of this pillar" d fane, 
 Now seeming as if scarce a year had pass'd." W. Lisle Bowles, 1834. 
 
 Oct. 28, St. Simon and St. Jude. Anniversary of the birth of Thomas Tallis cele- 
 brated ; his Cathedral Service performed at morning prayers. Tallis was organist to 
 Henry VIII., Edward VI., Queen Mary, and Elizabeth. 
 
 Organs. The small organ, the oldest, was repaired by Father Smith, in 1694 : this 
 organ is represented in the prints of the Choir of the Abbey, at the coronation of 
 James II., in Sandford's Book of the Coronation. It was placed under one of the 
 arches on the north side of the Choir, and had a small projecting organ-loft over the 
 Stalls. The larger organ, built by Schreider, who succeeded Schmidt, about 1710, as 
 organ-builder to the Royal Chapels, is a very fine instrument. " Mr. Turle's accom- 
 paniment of the Choral Service is quite a model of that kind of organ playing." 
 A Short Account of Organs, 1847. 
 
 Tombs. The numerous specimens of early Italian decorative art make Westminster 
 Abbey the richest church north of the Alps. The tomb of William de Valence is stated 
 to be a French work, probably executed by an enameller from Limoges. Labarte, in his 
 Handbook of the Arts of the Middle Ages, after quoting a document cited by Mr. 
 Albert Way, which tells us that an artist of Limoges, " Magister Johannes Livnovi- 
 censis," was employed about the year 1276, to construct the tomb and effigy of Walter 
 de Merton, Bishop of Oxford, says : " This curious monument was despoiled of its 
 enamelled metal at the Reformation, but there still exists in England an evidence of 
 the high repute in which the enamelled work of Limoges was held, in the effigy of 
 William de Valence, in Westminster Abbey. There can be no doubt that this curious 
 portraiture was produced by an artist of Limoges." The effigy is of wood, overlaid 
 with enamelled and engraved copper, and includes an enamelled shield displaying 
 twenty-eight bars, alternately argent and azure, diapered ; or, rather, ornamented 
 with inlaid scroll-work ; and having nineteen martlets, gules, displayed around the 
 circumference of the shield. Mr. Scott observes : 
 
 Taking the tombs of the Confessor, of Henry III., and his daughter, and of young de Valence, in 
 connexion with the pavement before the high altar, and that of the Confessor's Chapel, I should doubt 
 whether I will not say any church north of the Alps but, I may almost say, whether any country 
 north of the Alps contains such a mass of early Italian decorative art ; indeed, the very artists em- 
 ployed appear to have done their utmost to increase the value of the works they were bequeathing to 
 us, by giving to the mosaic work the utmost possible variety of pattern. 
 
 The tombs at Westminster have been at least spared from the hand of the early 
 restorers, if not from the destroyers. The earliest tomb erected after the completion 
 of the new Choir was that of the beautiful little dumb princess, daughter of Henry III., 
 who died 1257, in her fifth year. 
 
 Painted and Stained Glass. (Ancient.) North Aisle of Nave, figure, said to be 
 Edward the Confessor ; South Aisle, given to the Black Prince, Edward III., and 
 Richard II. See also clerestory windows east of Choir, east window of Henry VII.'s 
 Chapel, and Jerusalem Chamber. (Modern.) Great west window, the Patriarchs ; 
 large rose window, North Transept, Apostles and Evangelists a noble mass of brilliant 
 colour and delicate stone tracery ; marigold window in South Transept (put up in 1847), 
 figures nearly three feet high ; also windows above Henry VII.'s Chapel, and in east 
 end of triforium. The lost original tracery of the great rose windows of the Tran- 
 septs has been imaginatively restored from the pattern of some encaustic paving-tiles 
 still remaining in the Chapter-house. Amongst the recent works set up in the Abbey, 
 must be mentioned, too, a small painted glass window, in the East Aisle of that Tran-. 
 sept, by Lavers and Barraud, commemorative of Vincent Novello, musical composer :
 
 CHURCHES WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 139 
 
 the subject is St. Cecilia. Here is the Stephensoii memorial a window filled with 
 stained glass, by "VVailes : in the body are represented some of the greatest archi- 
 tectural and engineering works ; and above these, at the top of the window, are in 
 five- foil, bust-portraits of eminent engineers. Robert Stephenson is placed in. the 
 centre ; above, his father, George Stephenson ; on one side, Thomas Telford ; on the 
 other, John Smeaton ; and below these, James Watt and John Eennie. The archi- 
 tectural works represented are bordered with ornamental tracery, and consist of, on 
 the one half of the window, the Ark, the erecting of the Tabernacle, the first Temple, 
 the second Temple, and Menai Bridge; and on the other half, the building of Nineveh, 
 the Treasure Cities of Egypt, Aqueduct near Pygro, the Colosseum at Rome, and the 
 High-Level Bridge at Newcastle. 
 
 Metal-work. There are five examples of metal-work remaining in the Abbey 
 Church. These are the grille at the top of the tomb of Queen Eleanor, lately rein- 
 stated by Mr. Scott ; the railing round Archbishop Langham's effigy ; that at the 
 west end of the Chantry of Henry V. ; the brass or copper gates of Henry VII.'s 
 Chapel; and the beautiful brass grille round the tomb of the latter King. The 
 metal- work that protected the tomb of Queen Philippa, that " most gentyll quene " 
 of Edward III., had previously kept guard round the tomb of a bishop in St. Paul's 
 Cathedral ; this and the railing of Edward I.'s are, however, lost to us. In 1822 the 
 Dean and Chapter ordered the removal of most of the railings around the tombs; 
 although some of the metal-work then taken down has been discovered in the vestry. 
 Across the Transept, looking north, new ironwork has been put up from the designs 
 of Mr. Scott. The gate and the grille is for the most part of wrought iron; it is 30 feet 
 in length on each side, and was executed by Potter, for the sum of 700Z. 
 
 Brasses. There are still fifteen Brasses in the Church : the principal are in the 
 Chapels of St. Edmund, St. John the Baptist, and Edward the Confessor. 
 
 The present conservating architect of the Abbey is Mr. George Gilbert Scott, R.A. 
 The following are the principal Admeasurements : 
 
 Nave. Length, 166 ft. ; breadth, 38 ft. 7 in. ; height, 101 ft. 8 in. ; breadth of aisles, 16 ft. 7 in. ; ex- 
 treme breadth of nave and its aisles, 71 ft. 9 in. 
 
 Choir. Length, 155 ft. 9 in. ; breadth, 38 ft. 4 in. ; height, 101 ft. 2 in. 
 
 Transepts. Length of both, including choir, 203 feet. 2 in. ; length of each transept, 82ft. 5 ill.; 
 breadth, including both aisles, 84 ft. 8 in. ; height of south transept, 105 ft. 5 in. 
 
 Interior. Extreme length, from western towers to the piers of Henry VII.'s Chapel, 383 ft. ; ex- 
 treme length, from western towers, including Henry VII.'s Chapel, 511 ft. 6 in. 
 
 Exterior. Extreme length, exclusive of Henry VII.'s Chapel, 416 ft. ; extreme length, inclusive of 
 Henry Vll's Chapel, 530 ft. ; height of western towers, to top of pinnacles, 225 ft. 4 in. 
 
 Henry VII,'* Chapel. Exterior. Length, 115 ft. 2 in. ; extreme breadth, 79 ft. 6 in. ; height to apex 
 of roof, 95 ft. 5 in. ; height to top of western turrets, 101 ft. 6 in. (Interior.) Nave : length, 103 ft. 9 in. ; 
 breadth, 35 ft. 9iu. ; height, 69 ft.7in. Aisles : length, 62 ft. 5 in. ; breadth, 17 ft. 1 in. ; height of west 
 window, 45 ft. 
 
 Admission. The Abbey is open to the public between the hours of 11 and 3, generally; and in sum- 
 mer, between 4 and 6 in the afternoon. There is no charge for admission to the Nave, Transept, and 
 Cloisters; but the fee for admission to view the Choir and Chapels, and the rest of the Abbey, is 64. 
 each person, with the attendance of a guide. The entrance is at Poets' Corner. The admission-money 
 was originally lod. each person, when it usually produced upwards of 15001. per annum, mostly distri- 
 buted among the minor canons, organists, and lay-clerks. 
 
 The Chapter is composed of a Dean and eight Canons ; there are six minor canons, 
 twelve lay vicars, and twelve choristers. There are two daily services choral and a 
 weekly celebration of the Holy Communion. The capitular revenue was, in 1852, 
 30,6577. ; and the expenditure on the fabric in fourteen preceding years, 29,949Z. 
 
 " In Westminster Abbey," observes Horace Walpole, " one thinks not of the build- 
 ing : the religion of the place makes the first impression." One more walk through 
 its aisles was the dying wish of the exile Atterbury. " Westminster Abbey or 
 Victory !" were the watchwords which fired the heart of Nelson himself. From the 
 design of applying the Abbey property, under the care of Sir T. Wroth, to the repairs 
 of St. Paul's, on the dissolution of the bishopric, came the cant proverb to rob Peter 
 to pay Paul. The following is from a thoughtful and eloquent paper by Dean Stanley : 
 
 " The Abbey of Westminster owes its traditions and its present name, revered in the 
 bosoms of the people of England, to the fact that the early English Kings were interred 
 within its walls, and that through its associations our Norman rulers learnt to forget 
 their foreign paternity, and to unite in fellowship and affection with their Saxon 
 fellow-citizens. There is no other church in the world, except, perhaps, the Kremlin
 
 140 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 at Moscow, with which Royalty is so intimately associated. There our Sovereigns are 
 crowned and buried under the same roof, whereas in Russia the coronation takes place 
 in one church, the marriage in another, while a third is reserved for the reception of 
 the dead. It was in the reign of Henry III. that the Abbey began to assume that 
 national character which now belongs to it so fully. The third Henry was the first 
 thoroughly English King after the Conquest that is to say, the first who was born 
 in England, and who never resided in Normandy. The Abbey never possessed a 
 bishop's throne, except for a short time in the reign of Henry VIII., and so was not a 
 cathedral in the ordinary sense ; but from the time of Edward I. it always contained 
 the Coronation Chair, in which is fixed ' the fatal stone of Scone.' This throne, which 
 gives to the Abbey the constructive character of a cathedral, has never since the time 
 of the first Edward been removed from the church except once, and that was in the 
 time of Oliver Cromwell so jealous were the people of monarchical attributes and 
 privileges." The Dean then traces the burial-places of our Kings and Queens from the 
 time of Henry III. to Elizabeth's reign ; " after the death of the latter, tombs ceased to 
 be erected in the Abbey to the memories of Sovereigns. This was owing to the pecu- 
 liar course of succession, for none of the monarchs from the Tudors to those of the 
 Hanoverian dynasty had any peculiar interest in honouring the names of their prede- 
 cessors. The second George was the last of our Kings who was buried in the Abbey ; but 
 another of Royal blood, though of a different dynasty and a different country, had found 
 his last resting therein the Duke de Montpensier, younger brother of Louis Philippe." 
 
 More striking than the edifice and its general associations are its personal monu- 
 ments and contents. Here, for example, beyond a doubt, lies the body of the Con- 
 fessor himself, like the now decayed seed from which the wonderful pile has grown. 
 Around his shrine are clustered not only the names but the earthly relics of the prin- 
 cipal actors in every scene of our history. No less than seventeen of our Kings, from the 
 Confessor to George II., and ten of our Queens, lie within the Abbey, amid statesmen, 
 poets, divines, scholars, and artists. " It has," says Mr. Scott, " claims upon us archi- 
 tects I will not say of a TdgTier but of another character, on the ground of its in- 
 trinsic and superlative merits, as a work of art of the highest and noblest order ; for, 
 though it is by no means pre-eminent in general scale, in height, or in richness of 
 sculpture, there are few churches in this or any other country, having the same exqui- 
 site charms of proportion and artistic beauty which this church possesses." 
 
 On Dec. 28, 1865, being the Feast of the Holy Innocents, and just 800 years since 
 the dedication of the Abbey by Edward the Confessor, the Dean and Chapter com- 
 memorated the event by special services and the celebration of the Holy Communion. 
 The sermon, eloquently descriptive, was preached by the Dean (Dr. Stanley) from 
 John x. 21, 22 : " And it was at Jerusalem, the feast of the dedication, and it wag 
 winter. And Jesus walked in the temple in Solomon's porch." 
 
 The whole of the music was selected from composers who either in the past or present were connected 
 with the Abbey namely, Thomas Tallis, who died in 1585, organist to Henry VIII. ; Henry Purcell, 
 organist of Westminster Abbey, who died in 1695, and was buried in the north aisle ; William Croft, 
 organist of Westminster Abbey, who died in 1727, and was also buried in the north aisle ; George 
 Frederick Handel, who died in 1759, and was buried in the south transept; Benjamin Cooke, organist 
 of Westminster Abbey, who died in 1793, and was buried in the west cloister ; J. L. Brownsmith, John 
 Foster, and Montem Smith, vicars choral; and James Turle, organist, all of Westminster Abbey. The 
 words of the hymn for the introit, commencing " Hark, the sound of holy voices," were written by Dr. 
 Wordsworth, Canon and Archdeacon of Westminster, and the tune for it, entitled " All Saints," was 
 composed by Mrs. Frere, niece of the late Eev. Temple 1'rere, Canon of Westminster. 
 
 CHAPEL ROYAL, St. James's Palace, is situated on the western side between the 
 Colour Court and the Ambassadors' Court. It is oblong in plan, with side galleries, 
 the Royal Gallery being at the west end. 
 
 The superb ceiling, painted by Holbein in 1540, is one of the earliest specimens of the new style 
 introduced by him into England. The rib-mouldings are of wooden frame-work, suspended to the roof 
 above ; the panels have plaster grounds, the centres displaying the Tudor emblems and devices. The 
 subject is gilt, shaded boldly with bistre; the roses glazed with a red colour, and the arms emblazoned 
 in their proper colours ; leaves, painted dark green, ornamented each subject ; the general ground of 
 the whole was light blue. The mouldings of the ribs are painted green, and some are gilt; the under 
 side is a dark blue, on which is a small open running ornament (cast in lead), gilt. The ceiling has 
 undergone several repairs, in one of which the blue ground was painted white. In 1836, when the 
 chapel was enlarged under the direction of Sir Robert Smirke, the blue ground was discovered, as were 
 likewise some of the mottoes in the small panels ; thus, "STET DIEV FELIX: HENBICQ BEX 8 H. A. 
 
 YIVAT. KBX. 1540. DIEV. ET. MO. DBOIT," &C. 
 
 Divine Service is performed here as at our Cathedrals, by the gentlemen of the choir,
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 141 
 
 and ten choristers (boys). The establishment consists of a Dean (usually the Bishop 
 of London), the Sub-Dean, Lord High Almoner, Sub- Almoner, Clerk of the Queen's 
 Closet, deputy-clerks, chaplains, priests, organists, and composer ; besides violist and 
 lutanist (now sinecures), and other officers; and until 1833, there was a "Confessor to 
 the Royal Household." Each of the Chaplains in Ordinary preaches once a year in 
 the Chapel Royal. The hours of service are 8 A.M. and 12 noon. There are seats for 
 the nobility, admission-fee 2s. George III., when in town, attended this Chapel, when 
 a nobleman carried the sword of state before him, and heralds, pursuivants-at-arms, 
 and other officers, walked in procession ; and so persevering was his attendance at 
 prayers, that Madame d'Arblay, one of the robing- women, tells us, in November 1777, 
 the Queen and family, dropping off one by one, used to leave the King, the parson, 
 and His Majesty's equerry, to " freeze it out together." In this Chapel were married 
 Prince George of Denmark and the Princess Anne ; Frederick Prince of Wales and the 
 daughter of the Duke of Saxe-Gotha ; George IV. and Queen Caroline ; and Queen 
 Victoria and Prince Albert. Before the building of the Chapel at Buckingham 
 Palace, Her Majesty and the Court attended the Chapel Royal, St. James's. The 
 silver candelabra and other altar-plate are magnificent. The fittings of the Chapel 
 and Palace for the last royal marriage cost 9226Z. The Chapel is supposed to be the 
 same building that was used when St. James's Palace was first founded as an Hospital 
 for fourteen leprous females. 
 
 In the liber Niger Domus Regni (temp. Edward IV.) is an ordinance naming "Children of the 
 Chapelle viij. founden by the King's privie coft'eres for all that longeth to their apperelle by the hands 
 and oversyghte of the deane, or by the master of song assigned to teache them ;" such being the origin 
 of the present musical establishment of the Chapel Royal. Ordinances were also issued for the impresi- 
 ment of boys for the royal choirs : in 1550, the master of the King's Chapel had license "to take up from 
 time to time children to serve the King's Chapel." Tusser, the " Husbandrie" poet, was, when a boy, 
 in Elizabeth's reign, thus impressed for the Queen's Chapel. The Gentlemen and Children of the Chapel 
 Royal were the principal performers in the religious dramas or Mysteries; and a "master of the 
 children," and " singing children," occur in the chapel establishment of Cardinal Wolsey. In 1583, the 
 Children of the Chapel Royal, afterwards called the Children of the Revels, were formed into a company 
 of players, and thus were among the earliest performers of the regular drama. In 1731, they performed 
 Handel's Esther, the first oratorio heard in England ; and they continued to assist at oratorios in Lent, 
 so long as those performances maintained their ecclesiastical character entire. 
 
 " Spur-money," a fine upon all who entered the chapel with spurs on, was formerly levied by the 
 choristers at the doors, upon condition that the youngest of them could repeat his gamut ; if he failed, 
 the spur-bearer was exempt. In a tract dated 1598, the choristers are reproved for " hunting after spur- 
 money ;" and the ancient Cheque-book of the Chapel Royal, dated 1622, contains an order of the Dean, 
 decreeing the custom. " Within my recollection," wrote Dr. Rimbault, in 1850, " the Duke of Welling- 
 ton (who, by the way, is an excellent musician) entered the Royal Chapel 'booted and spurred,' and 
 was, of course, called upon for the fine. But his Grace calling upon the youngest chorister to repeat 
 his gamut, and the ' little urchin' failing, the impost was not demanded." Notes and Queries, No. 30. 
 
 CHAPEL ROYAX, Whitehall, the Banqueting House of the Palace, designed by 
 Inigo Jones, commenced June 1, 1619, finished March 31, 1622, cost 14,940Z. 4s. Id. 
 The above hall was converted into a Chapel in the reign of George I., who, in 1724, 
 appointed certain preachers, six from Oxford and six from Cambridge University, 
 to preach in successive months on the Sundays, at a salary of 301., through the year. 
 The edifice has, however, never been consecrated as a Chapel, which fact was 
 mentioned in the House of Commons by Sir Robert Inglis, several years ago, when 
 it was proposed to use the Hall as a picture-gallery. It was shut up in 1829, 
 and remained closed till 1837, during which interval it was restored and refitted, 
 under the direction of Sir Robert Smirke, R.A. The lower windows were then 
 closed up, the walls were hung with drapery (1400 yards of drugget), and the floor 
 carpeted, to remedy the excessive echo. The Guards formerly attended Divine Service 
 here ; they now attend at the Chapel in Wellington Barracks, St. James's Park ; and 
 the gallery in which they sat at Whitehall has been removed. The organ originally 
 placed here was sold by order of Cromwell, and is now in Stanford Church, Leicester- 
 shire ; the present organ is of subsequent date. The hall is exactly a double cube, 
 being 111 feet long, 55 feet 6 inches high, and 55 feet 6 inches wide. Over the prin- 
 cipal doorway is a bronze bust of James I., attributed to Le Sceur ; above is the 
 organ-loft, and along the two sides is a lofty gallery. Above the altar were formerly 
 placed eagles and other trophies taken from the French at Barossa, in Egypt, and at 
 Waterloo ; but they have been removed to Chelsea Hospital. The Whitehall ceiling 
 is divided into panels, and painted black, and gilded in parts. These are lined with oil
 
 142 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 pictures on canvas, painted abroad by Rubens in 1635, it is stated for 30001., by com- 
 mission from Charles I. There are nine compartments : the largest in the centre, 
 oval, contains the apotheosis of James I., who is trampling on the globe, and about to 
 fly on the wings of Justice (an eagle) to heaven.* On the two long sides of it are 
 great friezes, with genii, who load sheaves of corn and fruits in carriages drawn by 
 lions, bears, and rams : each of the boys measures 9 feet. The northernmost of the 
 large compartments represents the King pointing to Peace and Plenty, embracing 
 Minerva, and routing Rebellion and Envy ; at the south end (the altar) the King is on 
 the throne, appointing Prince Charles his successor. The four corner pictures are 
 allegorical representations of Royal Power and Virtue. The whole are best viewed 
 from the south end of the apartment. Dr. Waagen considers these pictures to have 
 been principally executed by the pupils of Rubens : they have undergone restora- 
 tions : in 1687, under the direction of Sir Christopher Wren ; and about 1811, by 
 Cipriani, who was paid 20002. Vandyck was to have painted the sides of the 
 Banqueting House with the history and procession of the Order of the Garter. Divine 
 Service is performed in the Chapel on Sundays, Saints' Days, &c., the gentlemen and 
 choristers of the Chapels Royal executing the musical service. The Maundy is dis- 
 tributed in this Chapel on the day preceding Good Friday, Maundy Thursday. (See 
 ALMONBY, p. 7.) The Royal closet is large and massive, situated on the right-hand 
 side in the centre of the Chapel, opposite the pulpit. King William IV. and Queen 
 Adelaide often attended this Royal Chapel, and it is said that the King was here pre- 
 sent for the last time at a public service only six weeks before his death. The Royal 
 closet is described in the reports as being within a few feet of the spot on which King 
 Charles I. was executed. This is hardly correct ; for, according to a memorandum of 
 Vertue, on a print in the library of the Society of Antiquaries, through a window be- 
 longing to a small building abutting from the north side of the present Banqueting 
 House, the King stepped upon the scaffold, " which was equal to the landing-place of 
 the Hall within side." The Boyle Lectures, founded by the Hon. Robert Boyle for 
 proving the truth of the Christian religion against notorious infidels are sometimes 
 delivered in the Chapel Royal. For many years these lectures were delivered in the 
 City churches, where scarcely half a dozen persons could be obtained to listen to them. 
 The preachers are enjoined to perform the office following : " To preach eight sermons 
 in the year for proving the Christian religion against notorious infidels viz., Atheists, 
 Theists, Pagans, Jews, and Mahometans, not descending lower to any controversies 
 that are among Christians themselves." 
 
 CHAPEL ROYAI, SAVOY, in the rear of the south side of the Strand, occupies a site 
 granted by King Henry III., in 1245, to Peter Count of Savoy (hence its name) on his 
 arrival to visit his niece Queen Eleanor. It was afterwards possessed by Edmund, Earl 
 of Lancaster (1267), and John of Gaunt, during whose tenure of it the palace was 
 destroyed ; after which, being inherited by his son, Henry IV., it was vested in the 
 Crown as part of the Duchy of Lancaster, and thus acquired its peculiar dignities and 
 privileges as a Royal manor. An Hospital was erected in the Savoy under the will of 
 Henry VII., and in the reign of Henry VIII. a perpetual Hospital was incorporated. 
 This was one of the institutions declared to be illegal in the 1st of Edward VI., and it 
 was given up to the King. It was re-established in the fourth year of Philip and 
 Mary, but was converted into a military hospital and marine infirmary in the reign of 
 Charles II., and shortly afterwards was used as a barrack. The Hospital was, there- 
 fore, declared to be dissolved in 1702. 
 
 Strype, in his edition of Stow's Survey, 1755, says : " In the year 1687, Schools were set up and 
 ordained here at the Savoy; the masters whereof were Jesuits;" the classes soon consisted of 400 boys, 
 about one-half of whom were Protestants ; the latter were not required to attend mass. All were taught 
 gratis, buying only their own pens, ink, paper, and books ; and in teaching no distinction was made, 
 nor was any one to be persuaded from the profession of his own religion; yet they were generally success- 
 ful in promoting the Roman religion. The Schools were, however, soon dissolved upon the ceasing of 
 the government of King James. And the clock that was made for the use of the Savoy School, was 
 bought and set up upon a gentleman's house in Low Layton. The College gave rise to many other 
 schools in the metropolis : the Blue Coat School, in St. Margaret's, Westminster, is one of these. There 
 is a contemporary ballad, entitled " Religious Reliques ; on the Sale at the Savoy, upon the Jesuits 
 breaking up their School and Chapel." Printed in Notes and Queriet, 2nd S., No. 14, Jan. 1856, 
 
 * Bubens's original sketch is in the National Gallery, Trafalgar-square.
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 143 
 
 Several persons of note are buried here, and had figure monuments. Among them 
 was one, in the chancel, of Sir Eobert Douglas and his lady (seventeenth century). 
 In a pointed niche was the figure of a lady kneeling Jocosa, daughter of Sir Allan 
 Apsley, Lieutenant of the Tower, sister of Mrs. Hutchinson. In the western wall, 
 near the altarpiece, was an ornamental recess, in the back of which had been effigies 
 incised in brass ; and near this was a small tablet to the memory of Anne Killigrew, 
 daughter of one of the Masters of the Savoy, and niece to the well-known jester. This 
 was the lady described by Dryden as " A grace for beauty and a muse for wit." 
 Over the door was a small kneeling figure, with a skull in her hands, inscribed " Alicia 
 Steward." A recumbent figure was, it is thought, improperly named the Countess 
 Dowager of Nottingham. Here, also, is a brass over the grave of Gawin Douglas, who 
 translated Virgil ; and here rest George Wither, the poet, without a monument ; the 
 Earl of Feversham, who commanded King James II.'s troops at the Battle of Sedgmoor j 
 and Dr. Cameron, the last person who suffered for the Rebellion of 1745, to whom 
 was erected a marble relief tablet by his great-grandson, in 1846, " one hundred years 
 after the Battle of Culloden." Here, also, was placed a tablet to the memory of 
 Richard Lander, the traveller in Africa ; and in the burial-ground is the tomb of 
 Hilton, R.A., the historical painter, whose works were barely appreciated in his lifetime. 
 
 In the Chapel was a monument, rather sumptuous, erected about 1715, in honour of a merchant; the 
 sole statement of the epitaph was, that he had bequeathed 51. to the poor of the Savoy Precinct, and a 
 like sum to the poor of the parish of St. Mary-le-Strand ; while at the side, and occupying about half 
 the breadth of the marble, the money was expressed in figures, just as in a page of a ledger, with lines 
 single and double, perpendicular and, at the bottom, horizontal ; the whole being summed up, and in 
 each line two cyphers for shillings and one for pence. The epitaph concluded, " which sum was duly 
 paid by his executors." 
 
 The Savoy was last used as barracks and a prison for deserters until 1819, when 
 the premises were taken down to form the approach to Waterloo Bridge. The 
 roadway to the Bridge from the Strand, or Wellington-street and Lancaster-place, 
 covers the entire site of the old Duchy-lane and great part of the Hospital. We see 
 the river front of the Savoy in Hollar's prints and Canaletti's pictures ; and Vertue's 
 ground-plan shows the Middle Savoy Gate, where Savoy-street now is ; and the Little 
 Savoy Gate, where now are Savoy-steps. Ackermann published a view of the ruins as 
 they were in their last condition, before they were swept away. The pulling down of 
 the ruins, in 1816, when the chapel was left isolated, was a work of immense labour, 
 so massive was the masonry. Not the least amusing incident was that of the gamins 
 picking out the softest parts of the Royal palace walls and cutting them into hearth- 
 stones to clean hearths and the steps before doors ! 
 
 The Chapel is a parochial benefice in the gift of her Majesty, in right of her Duchy 
 of Lancaster; it was endowed by Henry VII., and the incumbent to this day receives 
 an annual fee by Royal warrant. The interior dimensions of the chapel are 90 ft. by 
 24 ft. ; its style English Perpendicular, late and plain, except the ceiling, which was 
 rich and coloured, and one of the finest pieces of carved work in the metropolis. 
 
 It was wholly of oak and pear tree, and divided into 138 quatrefoil panels, each enriched with a 
 carved ornament sacred or historical. The panels numbered twenty-three in the length of the chapel 
 and six in its width. Ten of the ranges had each a shield in the centre presenting in high relief some 
 feature or emblem of the Passion and Death of the Saviour ; and all devised and arranged in a style of 
 which there are many examples in sacred edifices in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The panels 
 throughout the rest of the ceiling contained bearings or badges indicating the various families from 
 which the Eoyal lineage was derived, and more particularly the alliances of the house of Lancaster; each 
 panel being surrounded by a wreath richly blazoned and tinted with the livery colours of the different 
 families. For a long series of years they were hidden under repeated coats of whitewash, but in 1843 
 Mr. John Cochrane, a bookseller in the Strand, having been appointed chapel warden, brought his 
 antiquarian knowledge to bear on the neglected ceiling, and it was restored. 
 
 The Savoy has a certain literary aspect : all Proclamations, Acts of Parliament and 
 Gazettes, used to issue from the Royal Printing-press established in the precinct j and 
 there Fuller lectured, if he did not write his Worthies. It was in the Chapel, also, 
 that the memorable Conference between the Episcopalian and Presbyterian divines on 
 the Book of Common Prayer was held in 1661. Here many of the bishops were con- 
 secrated, and among them WiUon, Bishop of Sodor and Man, by Archbishop Sharpe, 
 in 1698 ; and among those who have held the benefice was Dr. Anthony Horneck, 
 the favourite chaplain of King William III. 
 
 The Savoy precinct became as notorious for thieves and beggars, as for the lame,
 
 144 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the sick, and the vagabond, who considered themselves privileged to claim succour 
 from the Master of the Hospital of the Savoy, an office which was much coveted, and 
 which Cowley struggled ineffectually to obtain. While the Dutch, German, and 
 French congregations met quietly within the precinct, a favour which was originally 
 owing to Charles II., all sorts of unseemly marriages were celebrated by the " Savoy 
 parsons," there being five private ways by land to this chapel, and two by water. The 
 Rev. Mr. Wilkinson, the father of Tate Wilkinson, the actor, for performing the illicit 
 ceremony, was informed against by Garrick, and the reverend gentleman was transported. 
 A letter to Lord Burleigh in 1581, as to an outbreak of rogues, states, " the chief 
 nurserie of all these evell people is the Savoy, and the brick kilnes near Islington." 
 
 The Chapel was built, in 1505, of squared stone and boulders, with a low bell-tower 
 and large Tudor windows ; and, standing in a small burial-ground, amid a few trees 
 and evergreens, it resembled the church of a rural hamlet ; it was all that remained 
 of the Hospital. Thither John, King of France, was brought prisoner from Poictiers 
 by Edward the Black Prince ; and there, in his " autient prison," King John died. 
 The chapel was originally dedicated to the Saviour, the Virgin, and St. John the 
 Baptist ; but when the old church of St. Mary-le-Strand was destroyed by the Pro- 
 tector Somerset, the parishioners united themselves to the precinct of the Savoy, and 
 the chapel, being used as their church, acquired the name of St. Mary-le-Savoy, 
 though before the householders beyond the precinct were permitted to use it as their 
 parish church they signed an instrument renouncing all claim to any right or property 
 in the chapel itself. There is a tradition that when the Liturgy in the vernacular 
 tongue was restored by Queen Elizabeth, the chapel of the Savoy was the first place 
 in which the service was performed. 
 
 The Chapel Royal was restored chiefly through the instrumentality of George IV. 
 The interior wa3 destroyed by fire, but was repaired at the expense of Queen Victoria, 
 in 1843 ; the fine ceiling was restored and emblazoned by Willement, by whom it has 
 been minutely illustrated. Mr. Willement also reglazed the altar-window. In the 
 lower centre was a figure of St. John the Baptist ; the side compartments contained 
 emblems of the other Evangelists ; and in other parts were the ducal coronet, the red 
 rose of Lancaster, and the lions, also fleurs-de-lis of the Plantagenet escocheon, and 
 over all the inscription " This window was glazed at the expense of the congregation, 
 in honour of God, and in gratitude to our Queen Victoria." The altar-screen, said to 
 have been the work of Sir Reginald Bray, was restored by Mr. Sydney Smirke, in 
 1813. In July, 1864, the Chapel was again destroyed by fire, save the walls ; the 
 fine altar-screen and window, the carved ceiling, and many tif the old monuments, 
 were entirely consumed. It has been rebuilt at a cost of about 5000L (it was 
 insured for 4000Z.), under the superintendence of Mr. Sydney Smirke ; the roof has 
 been embellished much after the design of that which was destroyed, but different 
 in detail ; the great window over the altar has been magnificently painted, and a fine 
 Organ erected at the southern end of the Chapel. Over the window is a Latin inscrip- 
 tion to the effect that it was presented by the inhabitants of the precinct in 1843, 
 destroyed with the chapel in 1864, and restored by Queen Victoria in memory of the 
 Prince Consort in 1865. A beautiful font has been contributed by Mrs. De Wint, a 
 parishioner ; a carved oaken pulpit of chaste design has been presented by another 
 p rishioner, Mr. Burgess, of the Strand. The benefice is a " peculiar ;" building uncon- 
 secrated ; clergy unlicensed. Her Majesty pays every current expense belonging to 
 the chapel, its officers, and services. 
 
 On the Sunday following Christmas-day it has been customary to place near the 
 door a chair covered with a cloth : on the chair being an orange in a plate. This 
 curious custom at the Savoy has not been explained. 
 
 ST. ALBAN THE MARTYB, Baldwin's Gardens, Grays'-Inn-lane, was built and 
 endowed at the sole expense of Mr. Hubbard, M.P. The site was given by Lord 
 Leigh : Butterfield, architect ; consecrated Feb. 20, 1863 ; the choir entirely from 
 the parishioners of the district. The church comprises a clerestoried Nave and a Chancel, 
 both with aisles, and a saddle-back tower at the west end. The building is of brick, 
 with stone, alabaster, and terra-cotta dressings. Externally, the bricks are of the
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 145 
 
 ordinary stock brick character, with very slight bandings of red ; and internally, red 
 and yellow bricks are disposed in patterns mixed with stone ; the latter being orna- 
 mented with incised scroll-work filled in with black mastic. The use of constructive 
 polychrome, and the absence of carving, are characteristics of the edifice. At the 
 west end is a narthex, or Galilee porch, supported by an arch of imposing span and 
 height, and lighted by a noble west window. Here, according to the custom of the 
 early churches, are the north and south doors. The Chancel is approached by two 
 steps, and the altar is raised on a platform considerably higher. Over it is a large 
 marble cross, enriched, let into the wall. The chancel walls are lined witli alabaster, 
 banded with tile, and ornamented with niello work. On the flat east end, above the 
 second story, is a series of panels filled with ten water-glass pictures, designed by 
 Le Strange, from Our Lord's life, the central place being occupied with a picture of the 
 Annunciation. Alow wrought-iron screen separates the Nave from the Chancel; and 
 lofty iron parcloses divide the chancel from its aisles. The columns of the clerestory 
 here, as in the Nave and in the arcading against the north and south walls of the aisles, 
 are of red terra-cotta, in short lengths. The roof is of wood, ornamented with colour. 
 The font has a rich character in design and form, and in the coloured stone of its inlaid 
 work. In the Chancel is a brass lectern. The pulpit is of oak, simple in design, on a 
 pedestal of stone and terra cotta. The entrance to the belfry story is by a staircase 
 opening into the church at the centre of the west wall : over the door is inscribed, 
 " I believe in one baptism for the remission of sins,'' under a sculptured bas-relief 
 of the Last Supper. Incense and the vestments are used. Here is a tenor bell, one of 
 an intended peal of eight. Near the entrance of the church is placed a drinking- 
 fountain. The whole cost of the church, without the pictures, is about 15,000. 
 
 ST. ALBAN'S, "Wood-street, Cheapside, is stated to have been named from its belong- 
 ing to the monastery of St. Albans. Stow thinks it to be " at least of as antient 
 standing as King Adelstane the Saxon (925 to 941), who, as the tradition says, had 
 his house at the east end of this church," and which gave name to Adel-street. 
 Maitland supposes the church to have bean one of the first places of worship built in 
 London by Alfred, after he had driven out its destroyers, the Danes. It was rebuilt 
 by Inigo Jones, but destroyed by the Great Fire, and again rebuilt by Wren in 
 1685, " Gothic, as the same was before the Fire," with clustered columns, flat pointed 
 arches, and boldly groined roof. To the right of the reading-desk, within twisted 
 columns, arches, &c., and in a frame richly ornamented with angels sounding trumpets, 
 &c., is an hour-glass, such as was common in churches in the sixteenth and seventeenth 
 centuries, " that when the preacher doth make a sermon, he may know the hour 
 passeth away :" the hour-glass frame and the spiral column upon which it is mounted 
 are of brass. Butler, in Hudibras, has : 
 
 As gifted Brethren preaching by 
 
 A carnal Hour-glass do imply. Canto 3, v. 1061, and Note. 
 
 The exterior of the church is ill designed, and has a pinnacled tower 92 feet high. 
 The whole was restored in 1859, by G. Gilbert Scott, architect. The interior is 
 wainscoted with Norway oak. One of the St. Alban's rectors, Dr. Watts, who died 
 in 1649, assisted Sir Henry Spelmau in his Glossary, and edited Matthew Paris's 
 Historia Major. 
 
 ALLHALLOWS BABKING, at the east end of Great Tower-street, so called from having 
 belonged to the Abbot and Convent of Barking, in Essex, narrowly escaped the Great 
 Fire, which burnt the dial and porch, and vicarage-house. The church contains a 
 curiously-carved communion-table, font-cover, and screen with altar-wreaths ; and some 
 funeral brasses of early date, among the best in London. The headless bodies of 
 the poet Surrey, Bishop Fisher (More's friend), and Archbishop Laud, who were exe- 
 cuted on Tower Hill, were interred in Allhallows Church and churchyard, but have 
 been removed for honourable burial. The body of Fisher was carried on the halberds 
 of the attendants, and interred in the churchyard. 
 
 There has been published, by the archaeologist curate of this parish, BerJcynge 
 Churche Juxta-Turrim collections in illustration of the architecture and monu-
 
 146 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 merits, notices of vicars, &c. Much of the church is Perpendicular ; the chancel- 
 window is late Decorated. The whole building had a narrow escape at the Great Fire; 
 for, as Pepys records, the dial and porch were hurnt, and the fire there quenched. 
 
 Mr. Leyborne, in Strype, B. ii. p. 36, relates that over against the wall of Barking Churchyard, a sad 
 and lamentable accident befel by gunpowder in this manner. At a ship-chandler's, upon Jan. 4, 16 19, 
 about seven o'clock at night, being busy in his shop barrelling wp gunpowder, it took fire, and in the 
 twinkling of an eye blew up, not only that, but all the houses thereabouts to the number (towards the 
 street and in back alleys) of fifty or sixty. The number of persons destroyed by this blow could never 
 be known, for the next house but one was the Rose Tavern, a house never (at that time of night) but 
 full of company ; and that day the parish dinner was at the house. And in three or four days after 
 digging, they continually found heads, arms, legs, and half bodies, miserably torn and scorched, besides 
 many whole bodies, not so much as their clothes singed. In the digging, strange to relate, they found 
 the mistress of the Rose Tavern sitting in her bar, and one of the drawers standing by the bar's side, 
 with a pot in his hand, only stifled with dust and smoke ; their bodies being preserved whole by means 
 of great timbers falling across one another. Next morning there was found on the upper leads of 
 Barking Church, a young child lying in a cradle, as newly laid in bed, neither the child nor the cradle 
 having the least sign of any fire or other hurt. It was never known whose child it was, so that one 
 of the parish kept it as a memorial; for in the year 1666 (says the narrator), I saw the child, grown to 
 be then a proper maiden, and came to the man that had kept her all that time, where he was drinking 
 at a tavern with some other company then present. And he told us she was the child that was so found 
 in the cradle upon the church leads, as aforesaid. According to a tablet which hung beneath the organ 
 gallery of the church, the quantity of gunpowder exploded in this catastrophe was twenty-seven barrels. 
 
 ALLHALLOWS, Bread-street, was built by Wren, in 1680 : the old church, in 
 which Milton was baptized, was destroyed in the Great Fire, but the register preserves 
 the entry of the poet's baptism. Here was buried Alderman Richard Reed, who re- 
 fusing to pay to " a benevolence" levied by Henry VIII., was sent to serve as a soldier, 
 " both he and his men at his own charge," in the Northern wars. Reed was taken 
 prisoner by the Scotch, and was glad to make his peace with the King, and purchase- 
 his ransom at a heavy rate. Laurence Saunders was rector of this parish in 1553. In 
 Queen Mary's reign he preached most zealously against Romish errors, and was im- 
 prisoned fifteen months, degraded Feb. 4, 1555, and next day was carried to Coventry, 
 where, on the 8th, he suffered martyrdom. 
 
 " There are but few residents in the parish, which is chiefly filled with warehouses, 
 nearly every one of which has a padlock on the door on Sunday. The congregation 
 usually averages nine ! Mackeson. 
 
 ALLHALLOWS THE GEEAT AND LESS, Upper Thames-street, built in 1683, has a 
 richly carved oak rood-screen the whole width of the church. It was manufactured 
 at Hamburgh, and presented in the reign of Queen Anne to the church by Hanse 
 Merchants, who formerly resided in this parish in considerable numbers. 
 
 William Lichfield was Rector in 1440. He composed during his ministry 3083 
 sermons, which were found in his own handwriting, after his decease. Pepys speaks of 
 Allhallows the Great as one of the first churches that set up the King's Arms before the 
 Restoration, while Monk and Montague were as yet undecided. Theodore Jacohson, 
 the architect of the Foundling Hospital, is buried here. 
 
 ALLHALLOWS, Honey-lane, a small parish church, in the ward of Cheap, on the site 
 of Honey -lane Market ; it was destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt. Here 
 was buried John Norman, draper, Mayor, 1453, " the first Mayor that was rowed 
 to Westminster by water, for before that they rode on horseback." (Stoic.) 
 Thomas Garrard was Rector in 1537, and having circulated forbidden theological 
 books, was attainted by Parliament, and burned in Smithfield, 1540. 
 
 ALLHALLOWS, Lombard-street, destroyed by the Great Fire and rebuilt by Wren 
 in 1694, contains an exquisitely-sculptured white marble font ; carved figures of Time 
 and Death, in wood, besides a carved curtain, which seems to hide foliage behind it. 
 The churchyard was closed in the cholera year, 1849, and laid out as a garden. 
 
 In 1580, one Peter Symons left 31. 2s. 8d. to the parish of Allhallows, in order that, after a sermon 
 and the usual morning service upon Whit-Sunday, a penny and a packet of plums should be given to 
 sixty boys belonging to Christ's Hospital. Each lad receives a new penny and a packet containing 
 about a quarter of a pound of plums. Another version of the Will states the distribution to be in the 
 burying-ground in Old Bethlem to sixty poor people of the parish of St. Botolph, Bishopsgate. The 
 penny loaves have increased to twopenny loaves, and the burial-ground of Old Bethlem has been invaded 
 by railway companies. Of late years the loaves have been given away in the garden of Mr. Elwin. 
 Gifts of bread, buns, and money, from a local source, are also then given to the charity children, and to 
 .many of the poorer inhabitants of the parish. 
 
 ALLHALLOWS STAINING, Mark-lane, escaped the Great Fire, and Stow thinks wag
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 147 
 
 called Stane church to distinguish it from others in the City of the same name, built 
 of timber. The tower and a portion of the west eud alone are ancient. The Princess 
 Elizabeth, on May 19, 1554, after her release from the Tower, performed her devotions 
 in this church ; and afterwards is said to have dined off pork and peas at the King's 
 Head in Fenchurch-street, where a metal dish and cover used on the occasion are 
 shown ; and a commemorative dinner was held annually on Elizabeth's birthday, but 
 discontinued thirty years since. The churchwardens' books contain payments for ring- 
 ing the bells " for joye of ye execution of ye Queene of Scots :" also for the return of 
 King James II. from Feversham ; and, two days after, on the arrival of the Prince of 
 Orange. In De Laune's History of London, published 1681, mention is made of charities 
 connected with Allhallows Staining ; and that " John Costin, a Girdler, who dyed 1244, 
 gave the poor of the parish a hundred quarters of charcoals for ever." 
 
 ALLHALLOWS-IN-THE-WALL, Broad-street Ward, is named "of standing close to 
 the wall of the City." (Stow.) It was built in the shape of a wedge, east end broadest, 
 by Dance, jun., 1765, and contains an altar -picture, painted and presented by Sir 
 X. Dance, of P. da Cortona's " Ananias restoring Paul to sight." The parish books 
 (commencing 1455) record the benefactions of an " ancker," or hermit, who lived near 
 the old church which escaped the Great Fire. Here is a tablet to the Rev. William 
 Beloe, translator of Herodotus, and twenty years rector of this parish ; his successor in 
 the living was Archdeacon Nares, so well known by his Glossary. 
 
 ALL SAINTS EISHOPSGATE, Skinner-street, a Gothic church, built in 1830, at the 
 expense of Bishop Blomfield, when rector of St. Botolph's. 
 
 ALL SAINTS, Kennington Park, W. White, architect, completed in 1853, presents in 
 its materials stone of various colours, Devonshire marble, and different coloured tiles 
 and brickwork ; in the clerestory, part of each window-head is filled with mosaic work, 
 instead of being pierced ; and large squares of stained glass in place of the ordinary 
 perishable quarry lights. This church owes its erection mainly to the munificence of 
 the Rev. Dr. Walker, rector of St. Columb Major, after the model of whose beautiful 
 church in Cornwall the church of All Saints is built. 
 
 ALL SAINTS, Knightsbridge, in the Lombardic or Byzantine style, by Vulliamy, con- 
 secrated 1849 : incumbent, the Rev. W. Harness, one of the editors of Shakspeare ; 
 senior curate, the Rev. Mackenzie Walcott, author of Memorials of Westminster, 1819. 
 
 ALL SAINTS, Lower Marsh, Lambeth, built in 1846, in the Anglo-Norman style, 
 has a tower and spire 160 feet high, and upwards of 100 feet from the body of the 
 church, with which it is connected by a passage. 
 
 ALL SOULS, Langham-place, built by Nash in 1822-25, has been much ridiculed, but 
 is suited to its angular plan ; the circular tower, surrounded with Ionic columns, 
 has a Corinthian peristyle above, and a stone cone or spire ; it is well adapted to 
 its situation, having the same appearance whichever way viewed. The surface is 
 fluted, and the point finished with metal. The interior is formed on the model of 
 the older churches in the Italian style, and is divided " by colonnades into nave and " 
 aisles : it contains an altar-picture by Westall, R.A., of Christ crowned with thorns. 
 
 ALL SAINTS, Margaret-street, W. Butterfield, architect, was designed as a model 
 churcli, in art-development, and " in strict conformity with all the distinctive tenets 
 and limitations of the pure reformed church." The first stone was laid by the Rev. 
 Dr. Pusey, on All Saints' Day (Nov. 1, 1850) ; and the conduct of the work was un- 
 dertaken on his own responsibility by Mr. A. J. B. Beresford Hope, with a very limited 
 number of subscriptions, one of which, however, is stated to have been 30,OOOZ. from 
 an anonymous benefactor. The ground, which includes the site of Margaret-street 
 Chapel, was purchased chiefly by Mr. Hope for 10,000. The church forms one side of 
 a small court, two sides of which are formed by houses (schools and clergy house), 
 connected with the church, and the fourth side opens to Margaret-street. It consists 
 of a nave and chancel, with aisles to each : its length is 109 feet, its width 64 feet. 
 The length of the nave internally is 63 feet 6 inches, and of the chancel, which is 
 vaulted, 38 feet 6 inches. The external height of the building itself is 75 feet ; and 
 that of the tower and spire, one of the noblest features in the design, 227 feet. 
 
 L 2
 
 148 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The style of the entire mass is Early Middle Pointed, i.e., the style of about A.D. 1300 
 The material of the whole is red brick, chequered, in the church itself, by mosaic 
 patterns of black brick, and courses of Danby Dale stone ; in the collegiate buildings by 
 patterns of black brick, which is used, especially above the window arches, with great 
 boldness. The court is separated from the road by an iron screen standing on a low per- 
 peyn wall ; the entrance is by a pedimented gateway, and immediately opposite a but- 
 tress is converted into a kind of churchyard cross. In its upper part it is ornamented 
 with a sculpture of the Annunciation; above that, it carries a metal cross at the height 
 of 55 feet. The tower is at the west end of the south aisle. Its union and harmony 
 with the spire, and the treatment of the belfry windows, are, beyond comparison, finer 
 than the Marien Kirche of Lubeck. The decoration of the tower consists principally of 
 courses of Danby Dale stone, edged by a border of black brick, and relieved by a 
 chevron of the same ; mosaic patterns being introduced. The spire is broached ; it is 
 covered with slates, and relieved with bands of lead, and carries a very noble metal 
 cross. It is (1866) the highest spire in London, being more elevated than that of 
 Bow Church or St. Bride's. 
 
 The interior is the most gorgeous in the kingdom, and the one in which ecclesio- 
 logical teaching has been most studiously followed j every part of it having been 
 executed in accordance with mediaeval precedent and symbolism. The Nave is divided 
 into three bays, the south-western being inclosed so as to form a Baptistery. The 
 clustered columns which support the arches of the Nave are of polished Aberdeen 
 granite, with plinths of black marble, and boldly foliaged capitals of alabaster ; the 
 spandrels of the arches are inlaid with coloured stones and encaustic tiles in geometrical 
 patterns. The roof is of wood in seven bays, painted of a chocolate colour relieved 
 with white and pricked out with blue. The great Chancel arch is of alabaster ; the 
 wall above is inlaid with black, white, and coloured work, and has a large " cross of 
 glory," in the centre. All the windows are of stained glass : the one of the south aisle 
 and great window (the Root of Jesse) by Gerente of Paris, represent scriptural subject?. 
 The clerestory windows are of geometrical patterns, by O'Connor. The pulpit is of 
 coloured marble, and cost nearly 4CKM. The floor is laid with encaustic tiles ; there 
 are neither pews nor forms, but chairs are used. 
 
 The Chancel is mainly lined with alabaster and statuary marble ; the arches dividing 
 the Chancel from its aisles being filled with tracery of alabaster, resting on shafts of 
 dark red serpentine ; while on the ground-line of the sanctuary beyond, these rich 
 materials are sculptured into canopied arcades, forming graceful sedilia. There is no 
 east window, the entire end of the chancel above the altar being occupied by a series 
 of fresco paintings by W. R. Dyce, R.A., on a diapered gold ground, and each in a 
 canopied frame of alabaster; the detached shafts are of serpentine. In the lowest 
 stage is "the Nativity;" the Madonna, with the infant in her lap occupies the 
 centre ; whilst three of the Apostles are in panels on either side. In the middle 
 stage in the centre is a representation of " the Crucifixion," and the rest of the Apostles 
 occupy the side panels; the upper space is devoted to a large representation of 
 " the Celestial Court, with our Lord in Majesty in the centre," the Saviour being 
 seated in front of an elliptical aureole, around which is a choir of angels, while below 
 are Saints of the church, standing and kneeling in adoration. The upper portion of 
 the Chancel is decorated with geometrical and mosaic work, in coloured marbles. The 
 roof, which is externally more elevated than the nave, is groined in stone ; the main 
 ribs of the arches and vaulting are gilt ; the low screen, which shuts off the altar, is 
 of alabaster and coloured marble. The floor is laid with encaustic tiles. The Organ, 
 divided into two parts, occupies portions of the Chancel aisles, the trackers passing under 
 the floor. The Baptistery (the ground-floor of the tower) is ornamented with polished 
 red granite, serpentine, and alabaster j the font is of coloured marble, resembling in 
 style the pulpit. The ceiling contains a figure of the emblematic pelican. Throughout 
 the building is a rich display of Gothic brasswork. The grilles dividing the chancel 
 from the transept are light and graceful ; the stalls are very unobtrusive and neat ; 
 the holy table is of various precious woods. 
 
 Mr. Bntterfield's design and intention evidently was to produce a whole profusely but delicately 
 coloured, bright and luminous, refreshing to the eye, and satisfying (if it comes to be reflected upon) to
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. UJ) 
 
 the mind. The key-note of the colour was to be struck by the lovely natural marbles so largely used 
 throughout the church ; white was to be the foundation of the system, relieved indeed and decorated, 
 but never overpowered, by the stronger and more decided hues, whether of marble, of paint, or of gilding, 
 employed to surround it and give it force ; the result is admirable. The low marble screen, chiefly of 
 white and light brown marble ; the side arches filled with tracery of serpentine and alabaster full of 
 manly strength and beauty ; the magnificent alabaster reredos ; the general use of alabaster and green 
 marble on the sides of the chancel, and alabaster and faintly coloured chalkstone in the groining, 
 together with most of the encaustic tiles and the woodwork, are Mr. Butterfield's. The pillars carrying 
 the vaulting are of green Jlona marble, with alabaster capitals. The alabaster ribs are completely 
 covered with gold, and have the effect of bars of simple metal ; the capitals of the columns and large 
 masses of the reredos are covered with gold. The church is not absolutely large. The height of the 
 roof, however, increased to the eye by the use of white plaster between the carved beams ; the broad 
 and stately arches ; the large, bold, and bright patterns inlaid upon the walls ; all combine to create an 
 impression of breadth and dignity altogether uncommon. The mingling of the coloured bricks, the 
 white stone, the pink granite, and the alabaster arches and capitals, is very happy. The carvings of 
 the capitals were long since remarked upon by Mr. Buskin, with perfect justice, as unequalled in modern 
 times. Abridged from the Guardian. 
 
 The church is the parish church of a " Peel " parish, formed, in 1849, out of the 
 district rectory of All Souls', St. Marylebone, in the perpetual patronage of the Bishop 
 of London. Its present and first incumbent is the Rev. W. Upton Richards. The 
 church was, in the main, finished in 1859, and is understood to have cost 70,0002. 
 One of our ablest ecclesiologists, himself a leader among the exclusively Gothjc 
 architects of our time, Mr. G. E. Street, observes : " Though I have a rather large 
 acquaintance with English and foreign works executed since the revival of Pointed 
 Art, I cannot hesitate for an instant in allowing that this church is not only the most 
 beautiful, but the most vigorous, thoughtful, and original of them all." 
 
 ALL SAINTS, Poplar-lane, India-road, was first built in 1650-54, by subscription, on 
 ground given by the East India Company, and was nearly rebuilt by them in 1776. It 
 has a very good peal of ten bells. Here are monuments to Robert Ainsworth, the 
 lexicographer ; and Flaxman's sculpture in memory of George Steevens, the illustrator 
 of Shakspeare : it is a bas-relief of Steevens earnestly contemplating a bust of our 
 great Dramatic Bard ; the poetical inscription is by Hayley. 
 
 ST. ALPHAGE, London Wall, escaped the Great Fire, and was rebuilt in the last 
 century : it has a porch with sculptured heads and pointed arches, stated to be a 
 remnant of the ancient Elsing Priory. Its registers record, within a few years, about forty 
 persons in this parish who certified that they had been touched by Charles II. for the 
 Evil. 
 
 ST. ANDREW'S, Canal-road, Kingsland-road, built of brick of divers colours, C. A. 
 Long, architect, has a recessed porch at the west end, and a square tower and zinc 
 spire at the east: opened 1865. 
 
 ST. ANDEEW'S, Holborn, was rebuilt by Wren, upon the site of the old church, in 
 1686; the original tower (date Henry VI.), 110 feet high, was recased in 1704. It 
 is one of the best placed churches in London : " for as the west end is nearly at the 
 summit of Holborn-hill, the foundation was necessarily continued throughout on this 
 level to the east end in Shoe-lane ; so that the basement is there considerably elevated 
 above the houses." {Godwin.') The interior is rich in gilding and stained glass. 
 
 The Organ was built from the famous instrument constructed by Harris for the Temple Church, 
 part of which was sent to Christchurch Cathedral, Dublin, but was sold for 500J., and is now in 
 Wolverhampton Church. When Dr. Sacheverell entered upon the living of St. Andrew's, he found that 
 the organ, not having been paid for, had, from its erection in 1690, been shut up ; when Sacheverell, by 
 a collection amongst his parishioners, raised the amount, and paid for the instrument. 
 
 St. Andrew's has been called " the Poets' Church," from the sons of Song connected 
 with it : John Webster, the dramatic poet, a late contemporary of Shakspeare, is said 
 to have been parish-clerk here, but this is not attested by the register ; Robert Savage 
 was christened here, Jan. 18, 1696-7 ; the register records, Aug. 28, 1770, " William " 
 (Thomas) " Chatterton," with " the poet " added by a later hand, interred in the 
 burial-ground of Shoe-lane Workhouse, now the site of Farringdon Market ; and in 
 the churchyard lies Henry Neele, the gravestone bearing a touching epitaph written 
 by him on his father. Among the eminent rectors of the church were Hacket and 
 Stillingfleet, afterwards bishops ; and Sacheverel, the partisan preacher, who is buried 
 in the Chancel. In the south aisle is a tablet to John Emery, the comedian, d. 1822. 
 Some of the registers date from 1558.
 
 II' 
 
 150 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ST. ANDREW'S UNDERSHAFT, Leadenliall-street, nearly opposite the site of the 
 East India House, is a Tudor church, before whose south side was set up on every May- 
 day morning a long shaft or May-pole, which was higher than the church-steeple. It 
 was last raised in 1517, on " Evil May-day," " so called of an insurrection made by 
 apprentices and other young persons against aliens :" it was then hung on iron hooks 
 over the doors and under the "pentices" of Shaft-alley, until 3rd King Edward VI., 
 when one St. Stephen, a curate, preaching at Paul's Cross, " said that this shaft was 
 made an idol, by naming the church of St. Andrew with the addition of ' under-that- 
 shaft.' " Stow heard this sermon, and describes how the parishioners in the afternoon 
 lifted the shaft from the hooks whereon it had rested thirty-two years, sawed it in 
 pieces, " every man taking for his share so much as had lain over his door and stall, 
 the length of his house ; and they of the alley divided among them so much as had 
 lain over their alley-gate " (Stow) : and thus was this idol " mangled and after 
 burned." The present church, rebuilt 1520-1532, consists of a nave and two side 
 aisles, with ribbed and flattened roof, painted and gilt with flowers and shields. The 
 Chancel has also paintings of the heavenly choir, landscapes, and buildings. St. 
 Andrew's has much stained glass; and a large pointed windo.v at the east end of the 
 Nave contains whole-length portraits of King Edward VI., Queen Elizabeth, James I., 
 Charles I., and Charles II. The church was pewed soon after 1520. It contains 
 many brasses, tablets, and monuments, the most characteristic of which is that of 
 John Stow, author of A Survey of London (1598). This monument is of terra-cotta, 
 and was erected by Stow's widow ; it contains the figure of the chronicler, once 
 coloured after life : he is seated at a table, pen in hand, with a book before him, and 
 a clasped book on each side of the alcove : above are the arms of Stow's Company, the 
 Merchant Tailors'. 
 
 John Stow was born in the parish of St. Michael, Cornhill, in the year 1525. There is abundant 
 proof that he was by trade a tailor. In 1549, he was dwelling near the well within Aldgate, now known 
 as Aldgate pump ; where the Bailiff of Kumford was, to use Stow's own words, "executed upon the 
 pavement of my door, where I then kept house." Amidst the toils of business, Stow wrote his 
 Chronicles, his Annales, and his Survey, a " simple and unadorned picture of London at the close of the 
 16th and commencement of the 17th century;" besides other works, printed and manuscript, which, to 
 use his own words, " cost him many a weary mile's travel, many a hard-earned penny and pound, and 
 many a cold winter night's study." He enjoyed the patronage of Archbishop Parkef, the friendship of 
 Lambarde, and the respect of Camden; yet he fell into poverty, and all he could obtain from his 
 sovereign, James I., for the toil of near half a century, was a license to beg ! Stow died a twelvemonth 
 after, on the 6th of April, 1605, in the parish of St. Andrew Undershaft, and was buried on April 8 : but, 
 according to Maitland, in the year 1732, certain men removed Stow's " corpse, to make way for another." 
 His collections for the Chronicles of England, occupying 60 quarto volumes, are now in the British 
 Museum. Of the various editions of Stow's Survey, it may suffice to commend to the reader's notice 
 the reprint from the edition of 1603, carefully edited by W. J. Thorns, F.S.A.. 1842. 
 
 In a desk in this church are preserved seven curious old books, mostly in black letter, 
 with a portion of iron chain attached to them, by which they were formerly secured 
 under open cages. 
 
 ST. ANDREW BY THE WARDROBE, in Castle Baynard Ward, was named from its con- 
 tiguity to the King's Great Wardrobe, destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by 
 Wren, in 1692. Here is a monument, by the elder Bacon, to the Rev. William 
 Romaine ; the bust very good. 
 
 ST. ASTDEEW'S, Wells-street, Marylebone, built by Daukes and Hamilton, in 1845-7, 
 is fine Early Perpendicular, and has a tower and spire 155 feet high : the Anglican 
 musical service is fully performed here ; seats free and open. 
 
 ST. ANNE'S, Blackfriars, was destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt. It was 
 " pulled down with the Friars' Church, by Sir Thomas Cawarden, Master of the 
 Revels ; but in the reign of Queen Mary, he being forced to find a church for the 
 inhabitants, allowed them a lodging chamber above a stair" (Slow). The parish 
 register records the burial of Isaac Oliver, the miniature painter ; Nat Field, the poet 
 and player ; Dick Robinson, the player ; William Faithorne, the engraver. Van Dyck 
 lived and died in this parish j his daughter Was baptized the day her illustrious father 
 died, December 9, 1641. 
 
 ST. ANNE'S, Limehouse, built by Hawksmoor, pupil of Wren, 17J 2-24, at a cost of 
 35,OOOZ., has a tower, with four angular turrets, and a more lofty one in the centre,
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 151 
 
 original and picturesque. At 130 feet high is the clock, put up by Messrs. Moore in 
 1839 : it is the highest in the metropolis, not excepting St. Paul's, and has four 
 dials, each 13 feet in diameter ; the hours heing struck on the great bell (38 c\vt.), 
 inscribed : 
 
 " At proper times my voice I'll raise, 
 And sound to my subscribers' praise." 
 
 The whole of the interior of the church, including a fine organ, was destroyed by an 
 accidental fire on the morning of Good Friday, March 29, 1850 ; but has been judi- 
 ciously restored. 
 
 ST. ANNE'S, Soho, was finished in 1686, and occupies a spot formerly called Kemp's 
 Fields. It was dedicated to St. Anne in compliment to the Princess Anne of Denmark. 
 The tower and spire were rebuilt about 1806 by the late S. P. Cockerell; the clock is 
 a whimsical and ugly excrescence. The interior is very handsome, and has a finely- 
 painted window at the east end. In this church is a tablet to the memory of Theodore 
 Anthony Neuboff, King of Corsica, who died in this parish in 1756, soon after his 
 liberation from the King's Bench Prison by the Act of Insolvency. The friend who 
 gave shelter to this unfortunate monarch, whom nobles could praise when praise could 
 not reach his ear, and who refused to succour him in his miseries, was himself so. poor 
 as to be unable to defray the cost of his funeral. His remains were therefore about to 
 be interred as a parish pauper, when one John Wright, an- oilman in Compton-street, 
 declared, he for once would pay the funeral expenses of a Icing, which he did. The 
 tablet was erected at the expense of Horace Walpole, who inscribed upon it 
 
 " The grave, great teacher, to a level brings 
 Heroes and beggars, galley-slaves and kings; 
 But THEODORE this moral learn'd ere dead ; 
 Fate pour'd its lesson on his living head, 
 Bestow'd a kingdom, and denied him bread." 
 
 In the church is buried David Williams, founder of the Literary Fund ; and in the 
 churchyard, William Hazlitt, the clever essayist. In the church are monuments to Sir 
 John Macpherson, Governor-General of India, and William Hamilton, R.A., painter. 
 
 ST. ANTHONY'S (St. Antholin's or St. Antling's), in Budge-row, at the corner of 
 Sise-lane, is of ancient foundation, being mentioned in the twelfth century. The 
 church was rebuilt about 1399 and again 1513 ; and being destroyed in the Great Fire of 
 1666, was rebuilt by Wren in 1682, when the parish of St. John Baptist, Watling- 
 street, was annexed to that of St. Antholin. The interior has an oval dome, supported 
 on eight columns ; and the carpentry of the roof is a fine specimen of Wren's con- 
 structive skill. The exterior has a tower rising directly from the ground, with an 
 octagonal spire, terminating with a Composite capital, at the height of 154 feet. In 
 1559, there was established, "after Geneva fashion," at St. Antholin's, an early 
 prayer and lecture, the bells for which began to ring at five in the morning. This 
 service is referred to by our early dramatists, and the preacher (a Puritan) and the 
 bell of St. Antliu's were proverbially loud and lengthy. The chaplains of the Commis- 
 sioners from the Church of Scotland to King Charles, in 1610, preached here: and 
 " curiosity, faction, and humour," drew such crowds, that on Sundays, from daybreak 
 to nightfall, the church was never empty. The churchwardens' accounts present (iu 
 an unbroken series) the parish expenditure for nearly three centuries. 
 
 ST. AUGUSTINE'S, Watling-street, was destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by 
 Wren, in 1682. The ancient church stood near the gate that led from Watling-street 
 into St. Paul's churchyard. In 1387 (^ays Strype) was founded the fraternity of St. 
 Austin's, in Watling-street (corrupted from St. Augustine's), who met in this church 
 on the eve of St. Austin's, and in the morning at high mass, when every brother 
 offered a penny, afterwards they were ready either " at mangier or at revele " to eat 
 or to revel, as the master and wardens of the fraternity directed. After the Great 
 Fire, the parish of St. Faith-under-Paul's (so called because a part of the crypt of 
 that cathedral was formerly their church) was united to St. Augustine's. 
 
 ST. BARNABAS', Queen-street, Pimlico, is a portion of a college founded on St. 
 Barnabas' Day, 1846, including schools and residentiary house for the clergy, upoa
 
 152 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ground presented by the first Marquis of Westminster. The buildings are in the 
 Early Pointed style, Gundy, architect; and the church has a Caen -stone tower and 
 spire 170 feet high, with a peal of ten bells, the gifts of as many parishioners. The 
 windows throughout are filled with stained glass by Wailes, of Newcastle ; the subjects 
 from the life of St. Barnabas. The open roof is splendidly painted ; the rood dividing 
 the Choir from the Chancel, and other fittings, are entirely of oak ; the lectern is a 
 brass eagle : the superb altar-plate, the font, illuminated office-books, the corona lucis 
 in the chancel, and other costly ornaments, are the gifts of private individuals. The 
 funds were contributed by the inhabitants of the district of St. Paul, Knightsbridge, 
 through the pious zeal of the Rev. W. J. E. Bennett, the incumbent. There is an 
 organ by Flight, of great richness, variety, and power ; and full choral service is per- 
 formed. During the Anti-Papal agitation towards the close of 1850, this church was 
 more than once the scene of disgraceful interruption by intolerant mobs, who, but for 
 the intrepidity of the officiating clergy, would have set aside the right to undisturbed 
 worship. The church was consecrated by the Bishop of London, on St. Barnabas' Day 
 (June 11), 1850. The clergy and services are maintained by the offertory, as there is 
 no endowment. In 1849-50, sermons were preached here by the Bishop of London. 
 (Blomfield), the Bishop of Oxford, Archdeacon Manning, the Regius Professors of 
 Hebrew at Oxford and Cambridge (Dr. Mill and Dr. Pusey), Mr. Sewell (of Oxford), 
 Mr. Paget, Mr. Gresley, Mr. Keble, Mr. F. Bennett, Mr. Kennaway, Mr. Neale, 
 Mr. H. Wilberforce, Mr. Richards, Mr. R. Eden, and Mr. W. J. E. Bennett. The 
 ancient practice of singing the Litany at a faldstool, at the entrance to the chancel, 
 has here been revived, and in all other respects the most approved Catholic usages 
 have been observed, in so far as they are applicable to our own ritual. The stone altar 
 has been replaced by a wooden one, a table. 
 
 ST. BAKNABAS, Bell-street, Edgware-road, stands north and south, instead of east 
 and west, owing to the peculiar form of the site. Over the altar is a metal cross, 
 affixed to the wall, bearing in its centre a circular mosaic representing the Lamb, on a 
 gold ground. Above the Chancel arch is a figure of the Saviour seated, painted in 
 fresco ; and the north window is of stained glass. A. W. Blomfield, architect. 
 
 ST. BAKTHOLOMEW BY THE EXCHANGE, rebuilt by Wren after the Great Fire, 
 mostly with the old masonry, was taken down in 1840 : the tower was in eccentric 
 taste, appearing as though the upper part bad been blown down, and a door-way or 
 window-frame been left on each side. Here was buried Miles Coverdale, our first 
 translator of the Bible, whose remains were removed to St. Magnus' Church, London 
 Bridge, on the taking down of St. Bartholomew's. This church has been rebuilt in 
 Moor-lane, Cripplegate, under the direction of C. R. Cockerell, R.A. The interior 
 details are Tuscan ; the altar-piece, pulpit, &c., are richly-carved oak ; and the com- 
 munion end is lighted by a stained Catherine-wheel window. From the western door 
 the whole interior to the east is discovered through a triumphal arch, formed by a 
 novel and ingenious construction of the choir-gallery in front of the organ. 
 
 ST. BAKTHOLOMEW THE GEEAT, in West Smithfield, is part of the ancient Priory 
 of St. Bartholomew the Great, founded about 1102, by Rahere, the King's MinstreL 
 who became first Prior. Originally, the church consisted of a low central tower, with 
 four other towers, one at each of the angles of the edifice, and all crowned with conical 
 spires. Of Rahere's church, founded as above, in the reign of Henry I., and finished 
 about 1123, nothing remains but the Choir, with an aisle or procession-path surrounding 
 its apsidal east end, the crossing (at the original intersection of the transepts), and one 
 bay only the easternmost one of the Nave. These remains are coeval with the 
 naves of the cathedrals of Durham, Norwich, and Peterborough. The original length 
 of St. Bartholomew's seems to have been about 280 feet, and its breadth 60 feet a 
 little less than those of Rochester Cathedral. At the Dissolution of religious houses the 
 Nave was pulled down, and the conventual buildings were disposed of to various per- 
 sons. The Choir and Transepts were granted in 1544 to the parishioners, for their use as a 
 parish church; and so remained till now except that about the year 1628 the original 
 tower was taken down and a new one built of brick. The Nave is supposed to have 
 originally extended to the house-fronts in West Smithfield, where is the entrance-gate,
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 153 
 
 an excellent specimen of Early English, with the toothed ornament in its mouldings. 
 Mr. Parker has, however, explained that the above gateway was not the doorway to 
 the south aisle, as it had been considered. The grant of the Priory by Henry VIII. 
 defines the Nave as it was then, " a void ground, 87 feet in length and 60 feet in 
 breadth," and it was reserved as a churchyard, for which purpose it had been used to our 
 time. The discrepancy of the present dimensions with those in the grant, it is remark- 
 able had not before occurred to antiquaries. Mr. Parker has also explained that the 
 size of the doorway and extent of the mouldings are altogether unsuited to the position 
 assigned to them in the church. Here are the details : 
 
 At present the building is 132 ft. by 57ft, and 47ft. high, having an open timber roof, which is 
 supposed to be equal in age to the building itself. The square brick tower at the end of the south aisle 
 is 75 ft. high, and was erected in 1628. It contains five bells. The six bells belonging originally to the 
 edifice were sold at the Dissolution of the monastery to the parish church of St. Sepulchre. On the east 
 side of the south wing stood a beautiful chapel of the time of Edward III., with a large western archway, 
 which was destroyed by tire in 1830. Attached to the east end of the church was a Lady Chapel, of 
 Norman style, now a fringe manufactory, the side walls of which still remain. The prior's house, 
 infirmary, refectory, dormitory, chapter-house, and cloisters originally surrounded the building. The 
 walls of the chapter-house, of the time of Henry III., were remaining in 1809, as high as the window- 
 sills. It had three arched entrances to the cloister, with arcades on the north and south sides. On the 
 south side of the church is an oriel window built by Prior Bolton early in the 16th century, and supposed 
 to have been used, like that at Worcester Cathedral, by the sacristan for the supervision of the tights 
 burning at the altar. It is ornamented by the Prior's rebus, an arrow, or some such thing, inserted 
 through a tun. The interior of the church contains several very ancient monuments in good preserva- 
 tion ; among others the effigy and tomb of Rahere, the first prior, inserted within a screen ; the 
 Elizabethan tomb of Sir Walter Mildmay, Chancellor of the Exchequer, and founder of Emmanuel 
 College, Cambridge, who died in May, 1589 ; and of Rycroft, the king's printer of the Polyglot. Le 
 Soaur, the sculptor, and Milton lived in Bartholomew-close, hard by ; and William Hogarth was baptized 
 in the church in November, 1697. 
 
 Archer, in his Vestiges of Old London, has engraved the west gate of the Priory 
 and that portion of it which is now the " Coach and Horses" public-house, at the 
 entrance to Bartholomew-close, formerly the Priory close. The kitchen is now a dwell- 
 ing-house, from which a subterranean passage communicated with the church. Mr. 
 Archer identified the mulberry-garden from an old plan, and the decayed stump of a 
 celebrated mulberry-tree was grubbed up just before his visit in 1842. 
 
 This church, the oldest beyond all question in the whole City of London, having been 
 erected nearly 750 years ago, is about to be restored to its primitive grandeur at the 
 cost of a large sum of money, under the direction of a Committee. 
 
 ST. BARTHOLOMEW THE LESS, St. Bartholomew's Hospital, West Smithfield, was 
 formerly the Chapel of the Brotherhood of St. Bartholomew, and was founded by 
 Rahere the first Prior, and contained a chapel for the poor. It escaped the Great 
 Fire, but becoming dilapidated, was taken down, except the tower, and replaced by 
 an octagon wooden building by Dance. This again was taken down, and a stone 
 building erected, in 1823, by Hardwicke, R.A. During the operation, the arms of 
 Edward the Confessor, in stone, were found under the tower (they are now in the 
 Vestry), and as these arms were assumed by the Edwards, it is supposed that the old 
 church was erected during one of their reigns. The tower contains very fine Norman 
 and Early English arches and pillars ; the piscina from the ancient church is used as a 
 font. A beautiful Chancel has been built in the style of the Lady Chapels in Nor- 
 mandy ; the reredos of marble and alabaster, as is also the pulpit, with bas-reliefs of the 
 Sermon on the Mount ; stained glass windows by Powell. Mackeson. 
 
 ST. BESET, Gracechurch-street, is one of Wren's least attractive edifices, rebuilt after 
 the Great Fire. The original church is mentioned as " S. Benedicti, Graschurch," in a 
 survey made in the twelfth century ; according to Stow, it was called Grass-church, to 
 distinguish it from other churches of the same name, because that the herb-market was 
 held opposite its western door. Weever mentions only one monument of early 
 date (1491) in the church ; but the parish books contain many curious entries. Thus, 
 at the accession of Queen Mary, in 1553 : " Paid to a plasterer, for washing owte and 
 defacing of such Scriptures as in the tyme of King Edward VI. were written aboute the 
 chirche and walls, we being commanded to do so by y e Right Hon. y e lord bishopp of 
 Winchester, L d Chan r of England, 3*. 4d. ;" and " Paid to the paynters for the 
 making y e Roode, with Mary and John, Gl. ;" while in the first year of Queen Eliza- 
 beth's reign, 1558, occur, " Payd to a carpenter for pulling down the Roode and Mary,
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 4*. and 2d. ;" and " Paid three labourers one (lay for pulling down the altars and John, 
 2s. 4d." Later still, in 1642, were sold " the superstitious brasses taken off the grave- 
 stones for 9s. and 6d." The tower of Wren's church, at the north-west angle, is, with 
 the cupola and spire, 140 feet high. The interior of the church is a double cube of 
 60 feet by 30 feet, with a groined ceiling, crossed by bands. In the register is : " 1559, 
 April 14, Robert Burges, a common player." The yard of the Cross Keys Inn, Grace- 
 church-strect, was one of our early theatres. 
 
 ST. BENNET FINK, named from Robert Finke, the original founder (as also of Finch- 
 lane adjoining), was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, rebuilt by Wren, but taken 
 down in 1842-44. The remains were sold by auction, Jan. 15, 1846, when lot 12, the 
 carved oak poor-box, with lock, &c. (date on the lock 1683), fetched four guineas ; and 
 lot 17, the carved and panelled oak pulpit, with sounding-board, &c., fifteen guineas. 
 The paintings of Moses and Aaron, the carved and panelled oak fittings of the altar, 
 marble floor, and the two tablets with inscriptions in gold, were purchased for 501. The 
 parish registers record the marriage of Richard Baxter, the celebrated Nonconformist, 
 to Margaret Charlton, Sept. 10th, 1662 ; and the baptism of " John, the son of John 
 Speed, merchant-tailor," March 10, 1608. 
 
 ST. BENNET, Paul's Wharf, or ST. BENET HTJDE or HYTHE, was destroyed in the 
 Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren, in 1683. The burial register records Inigo Jones, 
 the architect ; Sir William Le Neve (Clarencieux) ; John Philpott (Somerset Herald) ; 
 and William Oldys (Norroy). Inigo Jones's monument (for which he left 100?.) was 
 destroyed in the Great Fire. Eh'as Ashmole, the antiquary, was married to his first 
 wife in this church. 
 
 ST. BENNET SHEEEHOG,or SYTH, Ward of Cheap, was destroyed in the Great Fire, and 
 not rebuilt. Stow says its most ancient name is Shorne, from one Robert Shorne, citizen 
 and stock-fish monger, " a new builder, repairer, or benefactor thereof, in the reign of 
 Edward II. ;" so that Shorne is but corruptly Shrog, or more corruptly, Sherehog. 
 
 ST. BOTOLPH WITHOUT AiDERSGATE escaped the Great Fire, and was rebuilt in 
 1796. Here are monuments to Dame Anne Packington, believed to have written The 
 W~hole Duty of Man ; Elizabeth, wife of Sir Thomas Richardson ; Elizabeth Smith, 
 with cameo bust by Roubiliacj and a tablet to Richard Chiswell, bookseller. 
 
 ST. BOTOLPH, AIDGATE, at the corner of Houndsditch, opposite the Minorics, was 
 rebuilt by G. Dance, 1741-44. It contains monuments of good sculpture to Lord 
 Dacre, beheaded 1537 ; and Sir Nicholas Carew, of Beddington, beheaded 1538 ; also 
 an effigies monument to Robert Dowe, who left the St. Sepulchre's Bell, &c. (see 
 p. 48). In the churchyard is a tomb inscribed with Persian characters, of which 
 Stow gives the following account : 
 
 " August 10, 1626. In Petty France [a part of the cemetery unconsecrated], out of Christian burial, 
 was buried Hodges Shaughsware, a Persian merchant, who with his son came over with the Persian 
 ambassador, and was buried by his own son, who read certain prayers, and used other ceremonies, 
 according to the custom of their own country, morning and evening, for a whole month after the burial ; 
 for whom is set up, at the charge of his son, a tomb of stone with certain Persian characters thereon, 
 the exposition thus : This grave is made for Hodges Shaughsware, the chicfest servant to the King of 
 Persia for the space of twenty years, who came from the King of Persia, and died in his service. If any 
 Persian cometh out of that country, let him read this and a prayer for him. The Lord receive his soul, 
 for here lieth Maghmote Shaughsware, who was born in the town Kovoy, in Persia." Stow'g Survey, 
 ed. 1633, p. 173. 
 
 ST. BOTOLPH'S is situate without the walls of London, near one of the ancient 
 entrances to the City, supposed to have been built by a bishop, and thence called 
 Bishopsgate. The old church narrowly escaped the Great Fire of 1666 ; it was re- 
 built in 1725-29 by James Gold; its peculiarity is, that the tower rises at the east 
 end, in Bishopsgate-street, and the lower part forms the chancel. The living, valued 
 at 1650Z., with a Rectory-house, is the richest in the City and Liberties of London. 
 The Crown exercises the right of patronage in consequence of having raised the then 
 rectors to the Episcopal Bench. Dr. Blomfield (the late Bishop of London) was rector 
 from 1820 until his consecration as Bishop of Chester in 1828 ; and Dr. Grey was 
 rector from 1828 until his consecration as Bishop of Hereford in 1832. In the chancel is 
 the monument to Sir Paul Pindar, whose residence in Bishopsgate-street Without is now
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 155 
 
 the Sir Paul Pindar's Head public-house. He was a rich merchant (temp. James I. and 
 Charles I.), and like many other good subjects, was ruined by his attachment to the 
 latter monarch. He was charitable and hospitable, and often gave " the parish venison" 
 for public dinners : yet the parishioners made him pay for a license for eating flesh. 
 Sir Paul presented the parish yearly with a venison pasty; for in 1634 we find 
 charged in the parish book Ids. Id. for the mere " flour, butter, pepper, eggs, making, 
 and baking." Another curious entry is in 1578 : " Paid for frankincense and flowers, 
 when the Chancellor sate with us, lls. 
 
 The ecclesiastical custom of a new Eector "tolling himself in," or, legally speaking, taking up " the 
 livery of possession," was performed by the Rev. William Rogers, M.A., the present Hector, with 
 the formalities described at p. 46, BELLS. The "reading himself in" took place on the following 1 
 Sunday. The above induction custom seems to imply the general authority of the Rector over the 
 peal of bells; and there is an old saying, that the number of strokes given on the occasion will corre- 
 spond with the years the incumbent is to hold the living. 
 
 Bow CHUECH, see St. MAEY-LE-BOW, page 183. 
 
 ST. BIUDE'S, or St. Bridget, Fleet-street, was built by Wren, upon the site of the 
 old church, destroyed in the Great Fire. It was completed in 1703, cost 11,430Z., 
 and is remarkable for its graceful steeple. " Ye first stone was layed on the 4th day 
 of October, 1701, and was finished, and the wether-cocke was put up in September, 
 1703 ; it being in height 234 feet 6 inches from... the surface of ye earth to ye top of 
 the cross, ye wether-cocke from ye dart to ye end is 6 feet 4 inches." In June 1764, 
 this beautiful steeple was so damaged by lightning, that it was found requisite to take 
 down eighty-five feet of the stone-work, and in restoring it, the height was lowered 
 eight feet : the whole cost was 30001. In 1803 the steeple was again struck by 
 lightning : " The metal vane, the cramps with which the masonry was secured, and 
 the other ironwork employed in the construction, led the electric fluid down the steeple, 
 in the absence of any continued or better conductor ; and as at each point where the 
 connexion was broken off, a violent disruption necessarily ensued, the stonework was 
 rent in all parts and projected from its situation. One stone, weighing nearly eighty 
 pounds, was thrown over the east end of the church, and fell on the roof of a house iu 
 Bride-lane ; while another was forced from the bottom of the spire, through the roof 
 of the church, into the north gallery." (Godwin's Churches of London, vol. ii.) 
 The Philosophical Transactions for 1764 also contains two scientific investigations of 
 the above damage. The upper part was, for a long time, preserved on the premises of 
 a mason in Old-street Road. The entire spire is one of Wren's most beautiful designs, 
 and consists of four stories, the two lower Tuscan, the third Ionic, and the fourth Com- 
 posite, terminating in an obelisk, with a ball and vane. In height and lightness it 
 approaches nearer to the exquisite spires of the Pointed style than any other example; 
 the details, however (in Portland stone), are hastening to decay. In the north face of 
 the tower is a transparent clock-dial, first lit with gas in 1827, and one of the earliest 
 in the metropolis. In the tower is a peal of twelve bells (see p. 47) ; and the Organ, 
 by Harris, is goad. The interior is handsome : the great eastern window, above the 
 altar, is filled with a copy, in stained glass, of Rubens's " Descent from the Cross," in 
 Antwerp Cathedral : this was executed by Muss in 1824-5, and is a fine produc- 
 tion. The marble font bears the date 1615. Richardson, the author of Clarissa 
 Harlowe, and who printed his own novels in Salisbury-square, is buried in the church ; 
 and in the vestibule, beneath the tower, is a tablet to Alderman Waithman (interred 
 here), who sat in five Parliaments for the City of London. The registers of St. Bride's 
 were saved at the destruction of the first church : they commence from 1587 : and the 
 vestry-books, which date from 1653, minutely chronicle the Great Fire, a relic of which 
 is the doorway into a vault, to the right of the entrance from Bride-passage. 
 In the old church were buried Wynkin de Worde, whose printing-office was in Fleet- 
 street ; Thomas Sackville, Earl of Dorset (d. 1608), the poet, who commenced The 
 Mirrourfor Magistrates ; Sir Richard Baker, the chronicler, who died in the Fleet 
 Prison, 1644-5 ; Richard Lovelace, the poet, who died a broken cavalier, " very poor 
 in body and purse," in Gunpowder-alley, Shoe-lane, in 1658. The register also records 
 the burial of Ogilby, the translator of Homer (d. 1676) ; Mary Carlton, or Frith, 
 the " English Moll " of Hudibras, alias Moll Cutpurse, an infamous cheat and pick- 
 pocket, hanged at Tyburn 1672-3 ; also, the burial of Flatman, the poet and painter :
 
 156 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Flatman, who Cowley imitates with pains, 
 And rides a jaded Muse whipt with loose reins. 
 
 Lord Rochester. 
 
 The present church and much of its elegant spire were hidden by houses until 
 after a destructive fire in Bride-passage on Nov. 14, 1824, when an avenue was 
 opened from Fleet-street : it was designed by J. B< Papworth ; this improvement 
 cost 10,OOOZ., of which Mr. Blades, of Ludgate-hill, advanced 6000Z. 
 
 One of Milton's London abodes was in St. Bride's churchyard : here, after his return 
 from Italy, he lodged with one Russel, a tailor, and devoted himself to the education of 
 his nephews, John and Edward Phillips, and to the politics of the day. Thence, how- 
 ever, he soon removed to " a pretty garden-house " in Aldersgate- street. 
 
 BEITISH AND FOREIGN SAUCES' CHUECH (the) was opened April 30, 1845, in the 
 Danish Church, Wellclose-square, Ratcliffe Highway. An inscription over the 
 entrance states it to have been built in 1696, by Caius Gabriel Cibber, the sculptor, at 
 the cost of Christian V., King of Denmark, for such merchants and seamen, his sub- 
 jects, who visited the port of London. The architect and his son, Colley Cibber, are 
 buried in the vaults ; and in the church is a tablet to Jane Colley. The pulpit has 
 four sand-glasses in a brass frame, by which preachers formerly regulated the length of 
 their sermons. 
 
 CAMDEN CHTTECH, Camberwell, has a Byzantine Chancel, G. G. Scott, R.A., 
 architect. The stained glass window is by Ward, Frith-street, assisted by hints from 
 Mr. Euskin (a member of the congregation). The carving and decorations through- 
 out the church are good. 
 
 CATHEEINE CEEE (or Christ Church), on the north side of Leadenhall-street, 
 was rebuilt in the year 1629, and consecrated by Laud, Bishop of London, Jan. 16, 
 1630-31 ; when persons were stationed at the doors of the church to call with a loud 
 voice on his approach, " Open, open, ye everlasting doors, that the King of Glory may 
 enter in." When Laud had reached the interior, he fell on his knees, and lifting his 
 hands, exclaimed, " This place is holy, the ground is holy ; in the name of the Father, 
 Son, and Holy Ghost, I pronounce it holy ;" then throwing dust from the ground into 
 the air, he bowed to the Chancel, and went in procession round the church. These 
 and other ceremonies, fully described in Rushworth, were made grave accusations 
 against Laud, and brought about his death. The present church is debased Gothic 
 and Corinthian. Among the monuments removed from the old church is a canopied 
 figure of Sir Nicholas Throgmorton (d. 1570), from whom Throgmorton-street is named. 
 By the Will of Sir John Gager, Lord Mayor in 1646, provision is made for a sermon to 
 be annually preached on the 16th of October, in St. Catherine Cree Church, in com- 
 memoration of his happy deliverance from a lion, which he met in a desert whilst 
 travelling in the Turkish dominions, and which suffered him to pass unmolested. 
 
 The old church was the reputed burial-place of Holbein, upon tfhich Mr. W. H. 
 Black, F.S.A., remarks, in connexion with the recent discovery of the great Painter's 
 Will : 
 
 Walpole observes that " the spot of his (Holbein's) interment was as uncertain as that of his death;" 
 and he might have added (if the circumstances of the " Plague " had been considered) 1554 was not 
 a Plague year of the time of his death also. He alluded to Strype's story of Lord Arundel's desire to 
 erect a monument to the painter's memory. Strype's words are (speaking of St. Catherine Cree 
 Church) : " I have been told that Hans Holbein, the great and inimitable painter in King Henry 
 VIII.'s time, was buried in this church; and that the Earl of Arundel, the great patron of learning and 
 arts, would have set up a monument to his memory here had he but known whereabouts the corpse lay." 
 So uncertain is tradition, that, although this rumour must have originated in a knowledge of the neigh- 
 bourhood where Holbein died, yet a wrong place is assigned for his burial ; for Cree Church and 
 Undershaft are situate in the same street, on the same side of the way, and within 200 yards of each 
 other. The beautiful pile of Undershaft escaped the Fire of London, but the register from 1538 
 to 1579 inclusively, has not been preserved ; and if it were extant who would believe that a 
 John Holbein, dying and buried in 1543, was the Hans Holbein whose life had been prolonged by 
 all biographers to 1554, unless upon the infallible testimony of the Will now brought to light ? 
 ArchcEologia, vol. xxxix. 
 
 ST. CHAD, Haggerston, has all seats free : " altar cross, and lights at every celebra- 
 tion of the Holy Communion." Mackeson. 
 
 CHBIST CHUECH, Broadway, Westminster, was designed in 1842, in the Early
 
 CHUECHES AND CHAPELS. 157 
 
 Pointed style, by Poynter ; upon the site of the former New Chapel : the spire not 
 built. It has some good stained glass by Willement, especially in the centre window. 
 The New Chapel was built about 1631 ; Archbishop Laud contributing to the funds 
 1000. and some most curious glass. At the Rebellion, Sir Robert Harley defaced the 
 window, laid the painted glass in heaps upon the ground, and trod it to pieces, calling 
 his sacrilegious antics "dancing a jig to Laud." The troopers of the Commonwealth 
 stabled their chargers in the church aisles ; and Cromwell and his officers are said to 
 have used it as a council-room. In the adjacent ground was buried Sir William 
 Waller (d. 1688), the famous Parliamentarian General in the Civil Wars. On June 26, 
 1739, Margaret Patten was interred here, at the age of 136 years (?) : she was born 
 at Lochborough, near Paisley, and was brought to England to prepare Scotch broth for 
 King James II.; but after his abdication she fell into poverty, and died in St. Mar- 
 garet's Workhouse, where her portrait is preserved. "None would recognise the 
 description given of this burial-ground now so crowded upon by houses towards the 
 beginning of the last century, that it was ' the pleasantest churchyard all about 
 London and Westminster.' " ( Walcott's Westminster, p. 286.) 
 
 CHRIST CHURCH, Clapham, of Gothic geometrical design, by Ferrey. " Incense 
 and the vestments are used ; this was the first church in London at which they were 
 used." MacJceson. 
 
 CHRIST CHUBCH, Down-street, Piccadilly, a stone building ; Messrs. Francis, archi- 
 tects ; style, " Middle Pointed French Gothic ;" only the eastern half built. 
 
 CHEIST CHURCH, Highbury, designed by T. Allom, in 1848, has a tower and spire in 
 the angle between the North Transept and Nave, the spire having gabled and crocketed 
 lucarnes. Internally, the plan is equally novel, in the centre becoming an octagon 
 of eight arches, so as to allow the pulpit and reading-desk, placed against the pillars 
 of the Chancel arch, to be distinctly seen from all parts of the church. 
 
 CHRIST CHUECH, Newgate-street, was built by Wren between 1687 and 1704, and 
 occupies part of the site of the ancient Grey Friars' Church, destroyed by the Great Fire 
 of 1666. The tower rises directly from the ground, and with the steeple is 153 feet 
 high ; the basement-story being open on three sides, and forming a porch to the 
 church. A large gallery at the west end is appropriated for the Christ's Hospital 
 Boys; and here, since 1797, have been preached the " Spital Sermons." In 1799, the 
 Spital Sermon on Easter Tuesday was preached by the celebrated Dr. Parr, who occu- 
 pied nearly three hours in its delivery. 
 
 The Spital Sermons originated in an old custom by which some learned person was appointed 
 y the Bishop of London to preach at St. Paul's Cross, on Good Friday, on the subject of " Christ's 
 -." on the Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday following, three other divines were appointed to 
 
 yearly by the Bishop of London to preach at St. Paul's Cross, on Good Friday, on the subject of " Christ's 
 Passion-." on the Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday following, three other divines were appointed to 
 uphold the doctrine of " The Resurrection " at the Pulpit Cross in the " Spital " (Spitalfields). On 
 
 the Sunday following, a fifth preached at Paul's Cross, and passed judgment upon the merits of those 
 who had preceded him. At these Sermons, the Lord Mayor and Aldermen attended; ladies also on 
 the Monday forming part of the procession ; and at the close of each day's solemnity, his Lordship and 
 the Sheriffs gave a private dinner to such of their friends among the Aldermen as attended the 
 Sermon. From this practice, the civic festivities at Easter were at length extended to a magnificent 
 scale. The children of Christ's Hospital took part in the above solemnities ; so that, in 1594, when it 
 became necessary to rebuild the Pulpit Cross at the Spital, a gallery was erected also for their accommo- 
 dation. In the Great Rebellion, the pulpit was destroyed, and the Sermons were discontinued till the 
 Restoration; after which, the three Spital Sermons, as they were still called, were revived at St. Bride's 
 Church, in Fleet-street. They have since been reduced to two, and from 1797 have been delivered at 
 Christ Church, Newgate-street. It was on their first appearance at the Spital that the children of 
 Christ's Hospital wore the blue costume by which they have since been distinguished. Instead of the 
 subjects which were wont to be discussed from the Pulpit Cross of St. Mary's Spital, discourses are now 
 delivered commemorative of the objects of the five sister Hospitals; and a Report is read of the num- 
 ber of children maintained and educated, and of sick, disorderly, and lunatic persons for whom pro- 
 vision is made in each respectively. On each day, the Boys of Christ's Hospital, with the legend 
 " l9C IS rtSCn " attached to their left shoulders, form part of the civic procession ; walking on the 
 first day in the order of their schools, the King's Boys bearing their nautical instruments ; and on the 
 second, according to their several wards, headed by their nurses. Abridged from the Rev. Mr. 
 Trollope's SMory of Chritt's Hospital. 
 
 CHEIST CHUECH, Poplar, cruciform, with spire, was built at the expense of 
 Alderman William Cubitt, twice Lord Mayor ; some stone from old London Bridge 
 was used in the building : it has five bells and a good organ. 
 
 CHEIST CHUECH, Spitalfields (originally a hamlet of St. Dunstan's, Stepney), was
 
 158 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 built by Hawksmoor, a pupil of Wren, and consecrated July 5, 1729. It is entirely 
 of stone, very massive, and has one of tbe loftiest spires in London, 225 feet high, 
 or 23 feet higher than the Monument. It contains a peal of 12 bells, scarcely 
 inferior in power and sweetness to any in the kingdom ; the tenor weighing 4928 Ibs. 
 It has a large organ, the masterpiece of Bridge, containing 2126 pipes. Here is 
 a monument to Sir Robert Ladbroke, a whole-length figure, in tbe full dress of 
 Lord Mayor : one of the early works of Flaxman. This church was greatly injured 
 by fire on Feb. 17, 1836, shortly after the parishioners had finished paying 8000Z. 
 for repairs. On the morning of Jan. 3, 1841, the spire and roof of the church 
 were greatly damaged by lightning, at ten minutes before seven, when the clock 
 stopped. The lightning struck the cone, or upper part of the spire ; thence it 
 descended to a room above the clock-room, forcing the trap-door from the hinges 
 down to the floor, melting the iron wires connected with the clock, scorching the 
 wooden rope-conductors, breaking many of the windows, and making a considerable 
 fracture in the wall, where the lightning is supposed to have escaped. The roof was 
 partially covered with large stones, which broke in the lead-work by their weight in 
 falling ; and the lead near the injured masonry was melted in several places. 
 
 ST. CLEMENT'S, Eastcheap, Clement's-lane, City, is of uncertain foundation: it was. 
 rebuilt, except the south aisle and steeple, in 1658, but destroyed in the Great Fire ; 
 after which it was rebuilt by Wren in 1686, and made to serve the two districts of St. 
 Clement and St. Martin Orgar, which church stood in St. Martin's-lane. The tower 
 remains to this day, and serves as an entrance to the site of the old church, occupied 
 as a burial-ground for the united parishes. St. Clement's Church has little that is 
 noteworthy ; but the parishioners were satisfied with its architect : for we find in the 
 Register-book, date 1685, " To one-third of a hogshead of wine given to Sir Christopher 
 Wren, 41. 2s." The tower is 88 feet high. The church has a fine organ, and an 
 elaborately carved pulpit and desk, and sounding-board ; and a marble font, with a 
 curious oak cover. In the list of rectors is Dr. Benjamin Stone, presented to the living 
 by Bishop Juxon in 1637 ; but deemed popishly affected, and declared unfit to hold 
 office, in Cromwell's time, and confined in Crosby Hall ; thence removed to Plymouth, 
 and set free by paying 601. fine : but Stone recovered his benefice in 1660. Another 
 celebrated rector was Bishop Pearson, who, in the old church, delivered the Lectures 
 forming his Exposition of the Creed, which, when published in 1658, he dedicated to 
 the parishioners of St. Clement, Eastcheap ; the work is to this day used as a text- 
 book in the examination of candidates in divinity. Among the former organists at this 
 church were Purcell, Battishil], and Whitaker. 
 
 ST. CLEMENT'S DANES, Strand, the first church west of Temple Bar, is said by 
 Stow to have been so called " because Harold, a Danish king, and other Danes, were 
 buried there." Strype gives another reason : that the few Danes left in the kingdom 
 married English women, and compulsorily lived between Westminster and Ludgate; 
 and tbe,-e built a synagogue, called " Ecclesia Clementis Danorum." This account 
 Fleetwood, the antiquary, Recorder of London in the reign of Elizabeth, reported to 
 the Lord Treasurer Burleigh, who lived in this parish. The body of the old church 
 was taken down in 1680, and rebuilt to the old tower in 1682, by Edward Pierce, 
 under the gratuitous directions of Wren, as recorded on a marble slab in the north 
 aisle. In 1719, Gibbs added the present tower and steeple, about 116 feet high, with 
 a peal of ten bells. The clock strikes the hours twice, " the hour being first struck on 
 a larger bell, and then repeated on a smaller one, so that has the first been miscounted, 
 the second may be more correctly observed." (A. Thomson's Time and Timekeepers, 
 p. 77.) In addition to the clock is a set of chimes, which play the old 104th Psalm, 
 though somewhat crazily. In the church are buried Otway and Nat Lee, the dramatic 
 poets ; and Ryrner, compiler of the Foedera, &c. 
 
 Dr. Johnson was a constant attendant ab the service of St. Clement's Danes, in one 
 of the pews of which (No. 18), in the north gallery, he had a seat for many years 
 against the large pillar at the end, which bears the following inscription, written by 
 the Rev. G. Croly, LL.D., Rector of St. Stephen's, Walbrook : 
 
 " In this pew and beside this pillar, for many years attended Divine Service, the celebrated Dr. 
 Samuel Johnson, the philosopher, the poet, the great lexicographer, the profound moralist, and chief
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 159 
 
 writer of his time. Born, 1709 ; died, 1784. In remembrance and honour of nohle faculties, nobly 
 employed, some inhabitants of the parish of St. Clement Danes have placed this slight memorial, A.D. 
 1851." 
 
 ST. CLEMEXT'S, Islington, of Gothic design, G. G. Scott, R.A., architect, was erected 
 at the sole expense of George Cubitt, Esq., M.P. : it has three good bells ; organ by 
 Walker ; and stained windows in the Chancel by Clayton and Bell. 
 
 ST. CLEMENT'S, York -place, Barnsbury, is a spacious brick church, designed by G. G. 
 Scott, R.A., and built at the expense of George Cubitt, Esq., M.P. ; cost nearly 80001. ; 
 opened 1865. The west front is striking ; it is lofty, has a good doorway, over which 
 are lancet windows, and above these a well-carved seated statue of St. Clement, within 
 a niche ; whilst the gable is crowned by a stepped open bell-cote, having two large bells 
 in the lower and a smaller one in the upper stage. The interior is spacious ; the Nave, 
 of six bays, is divided from the aisles by cylindrical stone columns, which support tall 
 brick arches, and a clerestory with triplet lancet windows over each arch. The 
 Chancel is similarly lighted, and has a painted oval light, filled, like the windows below, 
 with painted glass. The Chancel arch is noble, and the roof an open timber one, of 
 high pitch : the walls are of plain yellow brick. 
 
 . ST. DIONIS' BACKCHURCH (behind the line of Fenchurch-street), is the third church 
 upon this site, and was rebuilt by Wren after the Great Fire of 1666 : it has a tower 
 90 feet high. In the vestry -room are preserved four of the large syringes, at one 
 time the only engines used in London for the extinction of fires ; they are about 2 feet 3 
 inches long, and were attached by straps to the body of the fireman. The organ, 
 for which, in 1722, the sum of 74H. 9*. was subscribed, was built by Bvfield, Jordan, 
 and Bridge : " this magnificent instrument is in its original state." (Dr. JRimbault.) 
 There is a peal of ten bells, for which, in 1727, a sum of 479Z. 18s. was subscribed. 
 
 ST. DUNSTAX'S-IX-TIIE-EAST, between Tower-street and Upper Thames-street, was 
 nearly destroyed in the Great Fire of 1606, and was restored by Wren in 1698 : ifc 
 has a stone tower and spire, supported on four arched ribs, springing from the angles 
 of the tower: this is Wren's best work in the Pointed style; but it generally re- 
 sembles the spire of St. Nicholas' Church, at Newcastle-upon-Tyne, built in the 
 fifteenth century. John Carter, however, says : " St. Nicholas's tower is so lofty, 
 and of such a girth, that, to compare great things with small, our London piece 
 of vanity is but a mole-hill to the Newcastle ' mountain/ the pride and glory of the 
 northern hemisphere." There is a tradition, that the plan of St. Dunstan's tower 
 and spire was furnished by the architect's daughter, Jane Wren, who died in 1702, 
 aged 26, and was buried under the choir of St. Paul's Cathedral. Lady Dionysia 
 Williamson, in 1670, gave 4000L towards the rebuilding of St. Dunstan's. After the 
 dreadful storm in London through the night of the 26th November, 1703, Wren 
 hearing next morning that some of the steeples and pinnacles had been damaged, 
 quickly replied, " Not St. Dunstan's, I'm quite sure." The old church had a lofty 
 leaden steeple. The body of the present church was rebuilt of Portland stone, in the 
 Perpendicular style, by Laing and Tite, in 1817. The interior is divided into three 
 aisles by clustered columns and pointed arches. The east window represents symboli- 
 cally the Law and the Gospel ; the north, Christ Blessing Little Children ; and the 
 south, the Adoration of the Magi. ' In the vestry is a wood carving, by Gibbons, of 
 the arms of Archbishop Tenison. In the south churchyard is a Rookery. 
 
 ST. DUNSTAN'S-IHT-THE-WEST, Fleet-street, was designed by John Shaw, F.R.S. 
 and F.S.A., in 1831-33, set back 30 feet from the site of the former church, which 
 projected considerably beyond the street-line. It just escaped the Great Fire of 1666, 
 which stopped within three houses of it ; as did also another fire in 1730. A View in 
 1739 shows the oldest portion to be the tower and bell-turret, the latter containing a 
 small bell which was rung every morning at a quarter before seven o'clock. The body 
 of the church is Italianized Gothic, with battlements and circular-headed windows ;' 
 shops with overhanging signs are built against the south and west walls, though pre- 
 viously the churchyard was thus built in, and was a permanent station for booksellers, 
 as appears by many imprints. Thus, " Epigrams by H. P.," &c. " and are to be 
 soulde by John Helme, at his shoppe in St. Dunstan's Churchyarde, 1608, qto." John
 
 160 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Smethwick had " his shop in St. Dunstan's churchyard, in Fleet-street, under the 
 Diall ;" and here, in 1653, Richard Marriott published the first edition of Walton's 
 Angler, for 18d. The church clock was one of London's wonders : it had a large gilt 
 dial, overhanging Fleet-street, and above it two figures of savages, of life-size, carved 
 in wood, and standing within an alcove, each bearing in his right hand a club, with 
 which they struck the quarters upon two suspended bells, moving their heads at the 
 same time. This clock and figures were the work of Mr. Thomas Harrys, in 1671, 
 then living at the lower end of Water-lane, who received for his work 35Z. with the 
 old clock, and the sum of 41. per annum to keep the whole in repair.* Originally 
 the clock was within a square ornamental case with a semicircular pediment, and the 
 tube from the church to the dial was supported by a carved figure of Time, with 
 expanded wings, as a bracket; when altered, in 1738, it cost the parish 1101. Strype 
 calls the figures " two savages, or Hercules ;" Ned Ward, " the two wooden horolo- 
 gists;" and Cowper, in his Table Talk, likens a lame poet to 
 
 " When labour and when dulness, club in hand, 
 Like the two figures at St. Dunstan's, stand." 
 
 In 1766, the elegant statue of Queen Elizabeth, which stood on the west side of 
 Ludgate, was put up at the east end of St. Dunstan's Church ; and the other figures, 
 King Lud and his two sons, were deposited in the parish bone-house. The old church 
 was taken down in December, 1829, when the materials were sold by auction : the 
 bell-turret for 10*. ; the flag and flag-staff for 12*. ; and an iron standard, with copper 
 vane, warranted 850 years old (?), weighing three-quarters of a cwt., was sold for 
 21. Is. At another sale, in 1 830, the statue of Queen Elizabeth sold for 16Z. 10s., and 
 a stained-glass window for 4<l. 5s. The clock, figures, &c. were purchased by the late 
 Marquis of Hertford, and placed in the grounds of his villa in the Regent's Park, 
 where they strike the hours and quarters to this day. The new church of St. Dunstan 
 was consecrated July 31, 1832, which the architect did not live to witness, he having 
 died July SO, 1831, the twelfth day after the external completion of the edifice.f It 
 is in the latest Pointed style, and has a lofty tower surmounted by an elegant lantern, 
 130 feet high (of Ketton stone), different from any other in the metropolis, but resem- 
 bling St. Botolph's, Boston, Lincolnshire ; St. Helen's, York ; and St. George's, at 
 Ramsgate, built in 1825. Over the entrance-porch are sculptured the heads of Tyndale, 
 the Reformer ; and Dr. Donne, who was once vicar of the church : they are considered 
 faithful portraits. Above is a clock, with three dials, curiously coloured and gilt in 
 the embellished taste of the architectural period ; and a belfry, with eight fine bells 
 from the old church, the sound of which receives effect from the four large windows 
 which are the main features of the tower. The enriched stone lantern is perforated 
 with Gothic windows of two heights; the whole being terminated by an ornamental 
 pierced and very rich crown parapet. The body of the church is of octagon form, 
 and has eight recesses, with as many windows above, containing good stained glass. 
 The roof is formed by eight iron spandrel-beams, projecting from an angle towards the 
 centre, and there connected by an iron ring ; and from the enriched keystone hangs 
 the chandelier. The northern recess contains the altar-table, of oak elaborately 
 carved : and the altar-piece presents three admirably carved canopies, of foreign work- 
 manship. Above is a large Pointed window, filled with stained glass, by Willement, 
 in the ancient manner : it contains figures of the Evangelists ; the crown of thorns and 
 the nails ; the spear and sponge upon a reed ; the Holy Lamb ; and the inscription, in 
 black letter, " Deo et ecclesise fratres Hoare dicaverunt, anno Domini MDCCCXXXII." 
 This is, altogether, one of the most elegant church interiors in the metropolis. In 
 May, 1839, the statue of Queen Elizabeth, already mentioned, was placed in a niche, 
 flanked with two pilasters, above the doorway of the parochial schools, east of the 
 principal entrance to the church. On the west side is the Law Life Insurance Office, 
 designed by John Shaw, in the style that prevailed between the last period of Pointed 
 
 * So early as 1478 there was a similar piece of mechanism in Fleet-street. Stow describes a conduit 
 erected in the above year, near Shoe-lane, with angels having "sweet -sounding bells before them ; 
 whereupon, by an engine placed in the tower, they, divers hours of the day and night, with hammers 
 chimed such an hymn as was appointed." There is, we believe, a like contrivance to that at St. 
 Dunstan's, at Norwich Cathedral. (See also Paul's Jacks, p. 106.) 
 
 t The interior was finished by his son, John Shaw.
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 161 
 
 architecture (of which St. Dunstan's Church is an example), and the complete revival 
 of the architecture of Greece and Home. In the old church was a large hour-glass, ia 
 silver frame ; of the latter, in 1723, two heads were made for the parish staves. The 
 Rev. William Ilomaine was rector of the old church in 1749, when it was generally so 
 crowded that the pew -opener's place was worth 501. per annum. The font is ancient. 
 
 ST. DUNSTAN'S, Stepney, a Perpendicular church, is famed in story for its legend 
 of " The Fish and King," and the popular ballad of " The Cruel Knight, or Fortu- 
 nate Farmer's Daughter ;" her identity is referred to Lady Berry, whose tomb is on 
 the outer east wall, with the fish and annulet in the arms thereon : hut the finding 
 of a ring in a fish is an incident of much greater antiquity than Lady Berry's 
 time (1696), and occurs in the Arabian Nights' Entertainments. The churchyard is 
 noticed in the Spectator, by Steele, for the number and oddity of its epitaphs. Here 
 lies the father of Dr. Mead, who was born over the antique brick gateway opposite the 
 rectory, and first began practice at Stepney ; also Rev. W. Vickers, author of the Com- 
 panion to the Altar ; and Roger Crab, who lived long on bran, dock-leaves, grass, and 
 water. Within the church is the splendid tomb of Sir Henry Colet, Lord Mayor in 
 1486 and 1495, and father of the founder of St. Paul's School. Here also is a marble 
 monument of the Good Samaritan, by Sir R. Westmacott, R.A., to B. Kenton, Esq. 
 (d. 1800), leaving 63,500Z. to charity schools, and 30,0002. to his friends. In the 
 western porch is a stone reputed to have been brought from the wall of Carthage. 
 
 ST. EDMUND'S (the King and Martyr), Lombard-street, has also been called St. 
 Edmund's Grass Church, because of a grass-market held here : whence Grasschurch- 
 street, now Gracechurch-street. The church was destroyed in the Great Fire, and re- 
 built by Wren : it has a tower and incongruous steeple, 90 feet high, and a projecting 
 bracket clock. The altar-piece has some fine carvings, and two paintings of Moses and 
 Aaron by William Etty, 1833 : above is a stained glass window, with the arms of 
 Queen Anne, " set up in the memorable year of union, 1707 ;" besides two other 
 stained glass windows, of superior excellence, representing St. Paul and St. Peter. 
 
 ST. ETHELBTTRGA'S, Bishopsgate-street, a Gothic church, which escaped the Great 
 Fire, and retains some of its Early English masonry ; it has been restored by Withers : 
 it was anciently in the patronage of the Convent of St. Helen. It is well known for 
 the " short services for City men," and, according to tradition, is frequented by sailors 
 returning from voyages, or immediately previous to sailing. Here incense is used on 
 Saints' Days; and stoles and altar vestments, according to the canonical colours. 
 (Mackeson.) Traces of a reredos were found during the repairs, and Roman coins and 
 bricks have been discovered in the churchyard. The western arch is said to have 
 formed part of the gateway of St. Helen's Priory. Under it John Hudson and many 
 of his crew came to receive the Holy Sacrament before they left their native shores in 
 1610 (Rev. Mackenzie Walcott, Gentleman's Magazine, June, 1863.) The church- 
 wardens of St. Ethelburga appear, from the accounts, to have provided profusely for 
 their Ascension-Day dinner, 1686 : " Three quarters of lamb ; 600 of sparagrasse, 
 sallatering, and spinnage ; 400 oranges and lemmons, three hams, Westphalia bacon, and 
 7? Ib. of tobaccoe." There are also charges for " yew and box to decke ye church ;" 
 " hearbes" for the same ; " wands and nosegays," " strawings and greenes." Dryden's 
 antagonist, Luke Milbourne, died, April 15, 1720, rector of St. Ethelburga's. " The 
 view of this church, by West and Toms (1737) exhibits several of the adjoining houses, 
 and is one of the most interesting of Old London illustrations." Cunningham. 
 
 ST. ETHELEEDA'S, Ely-place, Holborn, is all that remains of the ancient palace of 
 the Bishops of Ely, and retains much of its original aspect : the interior roof is boldly 
 arched ; on each side is a row of noble windows, though their tracery has disappeared ; 
 the pinnacle-work between and overtopping them is very fine, and at the east end is 
 " one fine Decorated window, of curious composition." Evelyn records the consecra- 
 tion here of Dr. Wilkins, Bishop of Chester, in 1668, when Dr. Tillotson preached; 
 and April 27, 1693, Evelyn's daughter Susannah was married here to William Draper, 
 Esq., by Dr. Tenison, then Bishop of Lincoln. Cowper thus chronicles an amusing 
 
 1
 
 162 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 occurrence in this chapel, at the time of the defeat of the Young Pretender by the 
 Duke of Cumberland, in 1746 : 
 
 " So in the chapel of old Ely House, 
 When wandering Charles, who meant to he the Third, 
 Had fled from William, and the news was fresh, 
 The simple clerk, but loyal, did announce, 
 And eke did roar right merrily two staves, 
 Sung to the praise and glory of King George." 
 
 The chapel, after being leased to the National Society for a school-room, was for 
 some time closed; but on Dec. 19, 1843, was opened for the service of the Established 
 Church in the Welsh language ; this being the first performance of the kind in London. 
 
 ST. GEORGE'S, Campden-hill, Kensington, E. B. Keeling, architect, cost 7000Z., 
 defrayed by Mr. J. Bennett. In plan it is cruciform, and has a tower with a lofty 
 spire, and an apsidal Chancel. It is of Early Second Pointed style, but of French 
 character. The tower is ornamented with bands, mouldings, and dressings. The 
 entrance is by a continued porch or Galilee at the west. The interior is lofty, lined 
 with various coloured bricks, and shafts of red Mansfield stone. The roof is of very high 
 pitch, and decorated in polychromy ; behind the altar is a tall reredos. Opened 1864. 
 
 ST. GEORGE'S, Hanover-square, was completed by John James in 1724 ; the parish 
 being taken out of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields. St. George's is built upon ground given 
 by Lieut.-Gen. W. Stewart : it has a stately and august Corinthian portico, and a 
 handsome and well-proportioned steeple ; still, it can only be viewed in profile ; but 
 " were it not for two or three intervening houses, it would be seen in the noblest point 
 of sight in the world." The interior has a large altar-picture of the Last Supper, 
 attributed to Sir James Thornhill; above it is a painted window, foreign, of the 16th 
 century, with the Virgin and Child, the Crucifixion, ecclesiastical personages, masonic 
 emblems, &c. ; the altar-piece, in its sculptured framework, and the painted glass in 
 its architectural recess, is effective ; but this Gothic window in a Roman church is a 
 glaring absurdity. 
 
 " The view down George-street, from the upper side of Hanover-square, is one of the most enter- 
 taining in the whole city : the sides of the square, the area in the middle, the breaks of building that 
 form the entrance to the vista, but above all, the beautiful projection of the portico of St. George's 
 Church, are all circumstances that unite in beauty, and make the scene perfect." Ralph. 
 
 St. George's, Hanover-square, also possesses a burial-ground at a short distance on 
 the Bayswater-road. Here is the grave of Sterne, with a stone set up by two 
 " Brother Masons :" here, too, lay Sir Thomas Picton, who fell at the Battle of 
 Waterloo, in 1815 ; his remains were removed to St. Paul's Cathedral in 1859. 
 
 ST. GEORGE'S IN THE EAST, Ratcliffe Highway, designed by Hawksmoor, 1715-29, 
 in an original and massive style, has a very picturesque spire. The altar-piece is a 
 painting of " Jesus in the Garden," by Clarkson. In the churchyard is buried Joseph 
 Ames (d. 1759), author of Typographical Antiquities, originally a plane-maker, and 
 afterwards a shipchandler at Wapping ; he lies in a stone coffin, in virgin earth, at the 
 depth of eight feet. This church was, for a considerable period, the scene of disgrace- 
 ful riots upon the plea of opposition to the manner of conducting the service. 
 
 In this parish are the Schools and Asylum founded by Mr. Raine, a wealthy brewer, in 1717 and 
 1736 ; who also provided that on May 1 and December 26, annually, a marriage-portion of 1001. should 
 be presented to two young women, former inmates of the School, and who have attained the age 
 of twenty-two years. The bridegrooms must be inhabitants of St. George's-in-the-East, or of Wapping, 
 or Shadwell ; and the young women draw lots for the portion, one hundred new sovereigns, usually 
 put into a handsome bag, made by a young lady of St. George's parish, and presented at a dinner of the 
 trustees. In the morning a discourse is preached in the Church, " On Diligence and Industry in our 
 Calling;" after which the drawing takes place at the Asylum. 
 
 ST. GEORGE'S, Hart-street, Bloomsbury, was designed by Hawksmoor in handsome 
 style, and was consecrated in 1731 ; a district for its parish being taken out of that of 
 St. Giles's-in-the-Fields. This church is remarkable for standing north and south; 
 the tower and steeple are placed by the side of the main edifice, the favourite practice 
 of Palladio. Upon the tower, on the four sides, rises a range of unattached Corinthian 
 pillars and pediments ; above is a series of steps, with lions and unicorns at the corners, 
 guarding the royal arms, and which supports at the apex, on a short column, a statue,
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 163 
 
 in Roman costume, of George I. The design is from Pliny's description of the first 
 mausoleum, the tomb of King Mausolus, in Caria. Walpole calls this steeple a master- 
 stroke of absurdity, and it has provoked this epigram : 
 
 " When Harry the Eighth left the Pope in the lurch, 
 The people of England made him head of the Church; 
 But George's good subjects, the Bloomsbury people, 
 Instead of the church, made him head of the steeple." 
 
 More admired is the magnificent portico of eight Corinthian columns, which Hawks- 
 moor added to his design, influenced by Gibbs's portico at St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, 
 then just completed; but St. George's is the better, from, its height above the level of 
 the street. Here are a tablet to the great Lord Mansfield ; and a monument to Mr. 
 Charles Grant, by Bacon, R.A. 
 
 ST. GEORGE THE MAETYE, Queen-square, Bloomsbury, built in 1706, as a chapel of 
 ease to St. Andrew's, Holborn, was declared a parish church in 1723 ; of which Dr. 
 Stukeley, the Roman-British antiquary, was many years the rector : in his MS. Diary, 
 1749, formerly in the possession of Mr. Britton, is described the then rural character of 
 Queen-square and its vicinity. The parish burial-ground is in the rear of the Found- 
 ling Hospital : a strong prejudice formerly existed against new churchyards, and no 
 person was interred here till the ground was broken for -Robert Nelson, author of 
 Fasts and Festivals, whose character for piety reconciled others to the spot : people 
 like to be buried in company, and in good company. Nancy Dawson, the dancer, of 
 Coveut Garden and Drury-laue Theatres (noted for hornpipes) lies here. 
 
 ST. GEOEGE THE MAETYE, Southwark, was built in 1733-36, by John Price, upon 
 the site of the old church ; the parish having been originally given by William the 
 Conqueror to the noble family of Arderne, and for some time attached to the Priory 
 of Bermondsey. Stow describes the former church as almost directly over against 
 Suffolk House, formerly the mansion of Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, the brother- 
 in-law of Henry VIII. ; now the site of the premises of Mr. Pigeon, the distiller. 
 There were buried in the old church, Bonner, Bishop of London, who died in the Mar- 
 shalsea ; and Rushworth, author of the Collections, who died in the King's Bench ; 
 both these prisons being in the parish. Edward Cocker, engraver and teacher of 
 writing and arithmetic, is also stated upon a sexton's evidence to have been interred 
 here : his Arithmetic, a posthumous work, was first published " by John Hawkins, 
 writing-master, near St. George's Church." The present church has a lofty stone 
 spire and tower, with a fine peal of eight bells ; the large bell is tolled nightly, and 
 thought to be a relic of the curfew custom. Hogarth, in his plate of Southwark Fair, 
 represents Figg, the famous prizefighter, and Cadman, flying by a rope from the tower 
 of St. George's Church ; the fair being held in that part of the Mint which lies in the 
 rear of the houses opposite. 
 
 There is preserved a curious handbill, or affiche, printed in black letter, which must have heen 
 promulgated previous to the suppression of religious houses in the reign of Henry VIII. It is sur- 
 mounted by a small woodcut of St. George slaying the Dragoni and by a child. It appears from 
 Staveley's History of Churches in England, p. 99, that the monks were sent up and down the country 
 with briefs of a similar character to the above, to gather contributions of the people ; and it is most 
 probable that the collectors were authorized to grant special indulgences proportionate to the value of 
 the contributions. One of these handbills is reprinted in Notes and Queries, No. 84. 
 
 ST. GILES'S, Camberwell, is one of the largest churches built in England since the 
 Reformation : it occupies the site of the old brick church, burnt on Sunday, Feb. 7, 
 1841. The new church, designed by Scott and Moffatt, is massively built entirely of 
 stone, and was consecrated Nov. 21, 1844 : it is in the Transition style, from Early 
 English to Decorated ; cruciform in plan, with a large central tower and spire, 207 feet 
 high, and the tower thirty feet square ; it has a fine peal of bells, by Mears. The out- 
 side length of the church exceeds 153 feet. The interior has an open timber roof, and 
 oak fittings ; a very powerful Organ by Bishop ; and several stained glass windows by 
 Ward and Nixon, the largest, over the altar, enriched with the symbolism of the 
 thirteenth century. 
 
 ST. GILES'S, Cripplegate, is the successor of a church founded by Alfun, subsequently 
 the first hospitaller of the Priory of St. Bartholomew. It was built in 1090, near the 
 
 M 2
 
 164 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 postern in the City wall, called Cripple-gate, from an adjoining Hospital for lame 
 people (Camden), or from the numerous cripples begging there (Stow); and it was 
 dedicated to St. Giles, as the patron of cripples ; it was small, and its site was " where 
 now standeth the vicarage-house." In the year 1545, it suffered greatly from fire, but 
 was soon repaired, and partially rebuilt ; and in 1682, the tower was raised 15 feet ; it 
 has a peal of twelve bells, besides one in the turret, and a very musical set of chimes, 
 said to have been constructed by a working mechanic. The interior is divided into a 
 Nave and aisles by clustered columns and pointed arches, and the ceiling of the Chancel 
 is painted with cherubim. Here are buried John Fox, the martyrologist, described in 
 the register as " householder, preachar ;" John Speed, the historian, with his bust, once 
 painted and gilt ; John Milton and his father, under the clerk's desk : a bust of the 
 poet, by Bacon, R.A., with a tablet, were set up on the north side of the nave, by 
 Samuel Whitbread, in 1793. The entry in the parish register is : " 12 November, 
 1674, John Milton, gentleman, consumpcon, chancell." In the Chancel, too, are tab- 
 lets to Constance Whitney and Margaret Lucy, both descendants of Sir Thomas Lucy, 
 of Charlecote, Warwickshire : the former represents a female rising from a coffin, and 
 has been erroneously supposed to commemorate a lady who, having been buried while 
 in a trance, was restored to life through the cupidity of a sexton in digging up the 
 body to get possession of a ring left upon her finger. Several of the actors from 
 the Fortune Theatre, Golding-lane, are buried here. Here, too, rests Sir Martin 
 Frobisher, one of the earliest of the Arctic voyagers (d. 1594-5) ; and Henry Welby, 
 the Grub-street hermit, yet a man of exemplary charity (d. 1636). And the register 
 records the marriage of Oliver Cromwell with Elizabeth Bowchier, August 20, 1620. 
 In 1861, the restoration of the church was commenced, " in honour of the memory of 
 John Milton ;" a monument has been erected, as a memorial of the poet, in the south 
 aisle, near the chancel. The cenotaph is nearly 13 feet high, and about 8 feet wide at 
 the base; and the body of the work, consisting of carved Caen stone, is divided by 
 pillars of coloured marble, thus forming three canopied niches. In the central niche 
 the bust of the poet, which was executed by Bacon, has been placed. Beneath this is 
 a marble tablet, with the following simple record : " John Milton, author of ' Para- 
 dise Lost.' Born December, 1608. Died November, 1674." The date of his father's 
 death in 1646, and the name of Mr. Samuel Whitbread, who placed the tablet in the 
 church in 1793, are also engraved thereon. Milton lived in the parish first in 
 Barbican, subsequently in Jewin-street, and finally, in Artillery-walk, where he died. 
 There is an apocryphal story of the poet's remains being irreverently disturbed, and 
 scattered, in the year 1790 ; but the evidence of identity is weak, and it is recorded 
 that the corpse then found was that of a female, and of smaller stature than that of 
 the poet. The story of the assumed desecration is told in " The Diary of General 
 Murray," in the Monthly Magazine, August, 1833. The restoration of the church in- 
 cludes windows of rich memorial glass contributed by parishioners ; the reconstruction 
 of the Chancel with an open roof, and the reglazing of a magnificent window, long 
 blocked up. In the adjoining burial-ground remains a bastion of the old London wall. 
 
 ST. GiLEs's-iN-THE-FiELDS, on the south side of High-street, was formerly in the 
 fields, and the parish the village of St. Giles ; the church being traceable to the chapel 
 of a Hospital for Lepers, founded about 1117, by Queen Matilda, consort of Henry I. 
 The ancient church was taken down in 1623, and a brick edifice was erected in its 
 place : this was removed in 1730, and the present church, designed by Henry Flit- 
 croft, was completed in 1734. It is built of Portland stone, and has a tower and 
 spire, 160 feet high, with eight bells. Above the entrance gateway, in the lunette, 
 is " The Day of Judgment," in alto-relievo, brought from the Lich-gate, or Resurrec- 
 tion-gate of the old church in 1687; it is well described by Mr. George Scharfjun., in 
 a paper read to the Society of Antiquaries, in 1855, upon " Representations of the Last 
 Judgment :" 
 
 The figures (he tells us) are very small in proportion to the semicircular lunette they occupy. The 
 Saviour stands in the clouds, surrounded by rays, holding the banner of redemption, and with His 
 right hand pointing upwards. Angels playing musical instruments, and tumultuously expressing the 
 joys of heaven, completely surround Him. Neither the Virgin Mary nor Apostles are to be seen in 
 . order. The prominent attitudes of the rising dead, and of the condemned, betray markedly the in- 
 fluence of Michael Angelo; they have been directly and ignorantly copied from, his outline conception.
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 165 
 
 Tliis alto-relievo is very curious, and, beinpr both elaborate and well preserved, deserves to be care- 
 fully drawn and published. (It forms one ofthe many illustrations of Mr. Scharf's paper in the Archceo- 
 logia, vol. xxxvi. part 20.) The treatment is very unworthy of the subject, but, as a piece of carving, it 
 is remarkably good. 
 
 This sculpture was formerly placed over the north-western gateway, which has been 
 taken down, and a new gateway erected opposite tbe western or principal door of the 
 church, over which is placed the alto-relievo. 
 
 At St. Giles's were buried Chapman, the translator of Homer; Lord Herbert of 
 Cherbury, who lived in Great Queen-street; Shirley, the dramatist, and his wife ; Sir 
 Roger L'Estrange, the political writer; and Andrew Marvell, "a man in whose repu- 
 tation the glory of the patriot has eclipsed the fine powers of the poet." The monu- 
 ment to Chapman, built by Inigo Jones at his own expense, is now in the churchyard, 
 against the south wall of the church. In the churchyard, too, is the altar-tomb of 
 Richard Pendrell, who aided in the escape of Charles II.; and a few years since was 
 revived the custom of decorating this tomb on Restoration Day (May 29) with branches 
 of oak. The finest monument in the present church is the recumbent effigies of the 
 Duchess Dudley (d. 1670), preserved in grateful memory of her munificence to the 
 parish. At the place of public execution, a short distance north-west of the church, 
 Sir John Oldcastle, Lord Cobham, was hung in chains and roasted over fagots in 1417, 
 during the reign of Henry V., his early friend. The phrase, " St. Giles's Bowl," is 
 referred to the custom of giving, at the Hospital gate, every malefactor on his way to 
 Tyburn a bowl of ale, as his last worldly draught, which practice was also continued 
 at an hostel built upon the site of the monastic house ; of this the Bowl Brewery, 
 taken down in 1849, was the representative; and the bowl itself is said to be in ex- 
 istence. The transparent clock-dial of the church was lit with gas in 1827, the first 
 in the Metropolis; and opposite, in 1842, was made one of the earliest experiments 
 with wood-paving. In Endell-street, in 1845, was built a district church, in the Early 
 Pointed style, by Ferrey a timely provision for the spiritual destitution of the parish. 
 St. Giles's possesses a cemetery in the Lower St. Pancras-road, where are buried, each 
 beneath an altar-tomb, John Flaxman, our greatest English sculptor ; and Sir John 
 Soane, the architect. (See CEMETERIES, p. 82.) 
 
 ST. GREGORY BY ST. PAUL'S was contiguous to the Lollards' Tower, which had 
 once been used as a prison for heterodox divines. It stood at the south side of the 
 Cathedral, in Castle Baynard Ward. It was very ancient, for the body of Edmund, 
 king of the East Angles, who was martyred by the Danes in 870, rested there for three 
 years. N&wcourt. 
 
 ST. HELEN'S, Bishopsgate, on the east side of Bishopsgate-street Within, was once 
 the church of the Nunnery of St. Helen, the site of which, judging from pavements 
 found here, was originally occupied by a Roman building. 
 
 The church consists of two broad aisles, 122 feet in length, and two chantry chapels. 
 The north aisle, known as the Nuns' Quire, was appropriated to the use of the inmates 
 of the Convent, and separated from the south or parish aisle by a wooden screen ; this 
 screen, together with the altar, was removed at the dissolution of the House. For- 
 tunately, 17 of the original carved miserere seats have been preserved, and the hagio- 
 scope which formerly communicated with the crypt still remains. The interior of the 
 edifice, with its columns and pointed arches, is picturesque : it contains more monu- 
 ments, perhaps, than any other church in the metropolis ; and these being altar-tombs 
 upon the floor, increase the appearance of antiquity and solemnity. They include a 
 freestone altar-tomb, with quatrefoil panels enclosing shields; upon the ledger lie 
 full-length alabaster effigies of Sir John Crosbie and his first wife Anneys or Agnes ; 
 the knight wears his aldermanic gown over plate armour. Also, a canopied monument 
 to Sir W. Pickering, in dress armour, reclining upon a pillow of matting (d. 1542) ; 
 several kneeling figures, elaborately painted and gilt, in memory of Sir Andrew Judd 
 (in armour) (d. 1558) ; a very large sculptured altar-tomb to Sir Thomas Gresham, 
 who founded the Royal Exchange ; a monument representing Martin Bond, captain of 
 the trained bands at Tilbury when the Spanish Armada was expected he is sitting 
 within a tent, with sentries, &c. (d. 1643) ; a tomb of Francis Bancroft (d. 1726), 
 built in his lifetime, when he directed that his body should be embalmed, and placed
 
 166 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 in a coffin unfastened; and a table monument by N. Stone to Sir Julius Caesar, 
 Master of the Rolls to James I. (1636), the monument erected in the previous year, 
 with the Latin inscription sculptured, as if on a folded deed, an engagement of the 
 deceased to pay the debt of nature whenever it shall please God to appoint it. In the 
 vestibule also are several elaborate monuments, displaying figures ; and an alms-box 
 supported by a curiously -carved figure of a mendicant. Here are also fine monumental 
 brasses of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The church was restored in 1866. 
 
 ST. KATHAEINE'S, the church of the Eoyal Hospital of St. Katharine, rebuilt in 
 1827, on the east side of the Regent's Park, after the demolition of the ancient 
 Hospital and Church, " at the Tower," for the site of St. Katharine's Docks. 
 
 More than 700 years ago, in the reign of King Stephen, 1148, Queen Matilda founded 
 and endowed, on the east side of the Tower of London, a Hospital dedicated to St. 
 Katharine; the foundation was confirmed by the grants of succeeding sovereigns, 
 and the revenues increased by Queen Eleanor, and other royal donors. The mastership 
 is in the gift of the Queen Consort ; if there be no such personage, the Queen Dowager. 
 Provision was made for a master, who, according to an ordinance of Queen Philippa, 
 was to be a priest. There were to be maintained also three Brothers, who were to be 
 priests, and three Sisters, all under obligation of perpetual chastity, and to " serve and 
 minister before God," and do works of charity. Masses were to be said daily in the 
 chapel, one to be for the souls of all the Kings and Queens of England. Provision 
 was to be made also for 24 poor men and 10 poor women ; and the charter of Queen 
 Eleanor directed that when in future times the means of the Hospital should augment, 
 the number of chaplains and poor men and women relieved should be increased. In 
 the reign of Henry VIII. the income was about 365Z. a year. 
 
 The Church and Hospital, in the Regent's Park, designed by A. Poynter, is in the 
 florid Gothic style, has octagonal towers, with a large painted window of beautiful 
 tracery. Among the relics of -the old church is a finely enriched tomb, part of a 
 chantry chapel, thus inscribed : 
 
 " This monument was erected in the Collegiate Church of St. Katharine, near the Tower, to the 
 memory of John Holland Duke of Exeter, Earl of Huntingdon and Ivry, Lord of Sparr, Admiral of 
 England, Ireland, and Aquitaine, Knight of the most noble order of the Garter, and Constable of the 
 Tower. He died the V. of August, M.CCCCXLV1I. Also, to the memory of his two wives, viz. : Anne, 
 daughter of Edmund Earl of Stafford, by whom he had issue Henry Holland, the late Duke of Exeter of 
 that surname, who married Anne, sister of King Edward the Fourth, and died without issue ; and Anne, 
 daughter of John Montacute, Earl of Salisbury, by whom he had issue one daughter, mother to Ilalph 
 Nevil, third Earl of Westmoreland." Below is engraved 
 
 " These remains, having been carefully removed from the original place of interment, were deposited 
 in this chapel, as were those of the other persons whose monuments and gravestones were transferred 
 to it from the Collegiate Church aforesaid." 
 
 In some parts along the mouldings are well-designed groups of sporting subjects " Reynard" and 
 the goose, monkeys in chains, and other quaint devices. The shields of arms and crests are coloured 
 and gilt. The effigies represent the Duke, one of his wives, and his sister. 
 
 The old wood pulpit from St. Katharine's is also preserved, and is a curious example 
 of the elaborate carved work of the sixteenth and seventeenth centimes : in the panels 
 are two views of old St. Katharine's. Some of the carved seats, similar to those in 
 Henry the Seventh's Chapel in Westminster Abbey, have also been saved; as have 
 likewise some of the corbels formed by crowned angels, bearing shields. These, with 
 additions, have been arranged round the present church, with the arms and dates of 
 the reigns of the English Queens from Matilda's time. The Organ, of about the 
 reign of George II., has also been preserved; and among the old monuments is one 
 with this inscription on a gold plate within a frame : 
 
 " Here dead in part whose best part ne'er dyeth, 
 A benefactor, William Cuttinge, lyeth ; 
 Not deade if good deedes could keepe man alive, 
 Nor all deade, since good deedes doe men revive. 
 Gonvile and K airs his good deeds men record, 
 .And will, no doubte, his praise for them afford < 
 Saincte Katrins eke ncer London can it tell : 
 Goldsmythes and Marchant Taylers know it well. 
 Two Country's towns his civil bounty bleste, 
 East Dareham and Nortonfitzwarren West : 
 More did he then this table can unfold, 
 The worlde his faime this earth his earth doth hold. 
 " He deceased ye 4 daie of March, 1599."
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 167 
 
 According to an official Report issued in 1866, the income of the Hospital now 
 exceeds 7000Z. a year ; and if the system of letting the estates on leases for lives with 
 fines for renewal were abandoned, the income would probably be nearly 11,000/., to be 
 increased to nearly 15,0001. when the Tower-hill leases fall in in the year 1900. The 
 site of the Hospital has now become a dock, and when the new hospital was about to 
 be erected in the Regent's Park, unfortunately, the removal was made in such a 
 manner as to involve much expense that might have been avoided. To the inquiry, 
 " What is done with this 7000Z. a year ?" an answer is given in this Report. The 
 Master receives nearly 15001. a year, increased to 2000Z. by the rent of his official 
 house, which, as he is non-resident, he lets. His house and gardens occupy two acres, 
 and it is considered to be, for its size, one of the most desirable residences in London. 
 He attends the meetings of the Chapter, which are held about three times in a year ; 
 but is seldom, if ever, at the chapel ; he occasionally visits the schools ; hut these 
 are considered to be sufficiently superintended by the Brothers and Sisters in residence. 
 He was appointed by Queen Adelaide, whose vice-chamherlain he was. Each of the 
 three Brothers receives above 3601. a year, and has also a sufficiently convenient residence, 
 though much less costly than the Master's. Each Brother is in residence four months 
 in the year. One of them has been presented by the Hospital to the living of Kings- 
 thorpe, near Northampton, with a net income of 700Z. a year and a house. The 
 junior Brother became British vice-consular chaplain at Dieppe in 1863, and has since 
 let his official residence, which is considered to be worth 1001. a year ; but he occupies 
 rooms in it during his term of residence. Each of the three Sisters receives about 
 240/. a year, besides having a residence provided. The senior Sister has always been 
 non-resident, and lets her house. The junior has done the like until recently, her 
 duties as preceptress to the Royal Princesses requiring her constant attendance at 
 Court ; but these having ceased, she has now virtually, if not actually, entered upon 
 residence. There are various officers and attendants provided for the establishment. 
 There remain funds sufficient to pay 101. each to 20 Bedesmen and 20 Bedeswomen 
 (decayed tradespeople and worn-out governesses and servants), and to maintain a school 
 in which 33 boys and 18 girls, the children of clerks, tradespeople, artificers, and 
 servants are freely educated and clothed, and then apprenticed or presented with outfits 
 for entering domestic service. 
 
 It is suggested in the Report that the large and increasing resources of this institu- 
 tion should by competent authority be made productive of more extended benefit than 
 they are at present. Thus, a scheme has been propounded, which proposes the restora- 
 tion of the Hospital to the east of London ; and the establishment there of a collegiate 
 church, with the Master and Brothers for dean and canons, each of them, by virtue of 
 his office, holding a benefice, with cure of souls, in that quarter ; the three Sisters, with 
 stipends of not less than 2501. a year each, to reside within the limits of these parishes 
 or places, and superintend and direct the work of the bedeswomen, who should also 
 reside within the same limits, and perform the duties of parochial mission women 
 and nurses ; the bedesmen, also resident in the limits, to perform the duties of Scripture 
 readers, or lay assistants. The four benefices might either he acquired by exchange, 
 or newly constituted by the Crown. The scheme contemplates also that a portion of 
 the income of the foundation he devoted to educational or eleemosynary purposes in 
 the east of London. The scheme was proposed by, or on behalf of, a Committee of the 
 local clergy, comprising seven incumbents in the immediate neighbourhood of the site 
 of the ancient Hospital, which forty years since was required and taken for the construc- 
 tion of St. Katharine's Docks. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S, Aldgate, Mitre-square, was built on the site of the wealthy Priory of 
 the Holy Trinity, in tasteless style, 1622. Here is service on great festivals and on the 
 last night of the year. And here, every Whit-Tuesday evening is preached the 
 " Flower Sermon," on a topic allied to flowers. The church is decked with flowers, 
 and the congregation carry nosegays, and a bouquet is placed in the pulpit. On Whit- 
 Tuesday evening, 1866, the Sermon was preached by the Rev. W. M. Whittemore, 
 the Rector. His text was Genesis i. 11, " Let the earth bring forth grass." 
 
 The following is an outline of the discourse : Pleasantness of a walk in the fields, conversing with 
 dear Mends, resting from the care and toil of a busy City life, enjoying the sights and sounds of nature,
 
 168 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and striving to gather spiritual lessons from the objects around us. A single blade of grass, how much 
 it may teach us ! How full of testimony to the goodness of the Creator, who has covered the earth 
 with this enamelled carpet of soft, fragrant verdure, to refresh and gladden our hearts. How full, also, 
 of solemn teachings of our frail mortality. All flesh is grass. This was shown to be true literally, as 
 well as figuratively. Then the preacher brought out several lessons, which he bade his youthful hearers 
 to remember. 1. The value of little things. A blade of grass is full of creative skill; the combining 
 of many little blades covers the hills and valleys of the world. 2. The union of firmness with gentleness 
 of character. The grass bends easily, yet is coated with flint, and its root is remarkably tenacious. 3. 
 Discrimination necessary in striving to be useful. Some one sowed grassseed, as he thought, but it 
 grew up chiefly chickweed and groundsel. 4. Unity may consist with great diversity. There are 5000 
 species of grasses, yet they have many features of aspect, structure, and growth in common, so that no 
 class of plants is so easily identified. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S, Clerkenwell, on the north side of Clerkenwell- green, has replaced 
 the church of a Benedictine monastery, founded about 1100; it served the nuns and 
 inhabitants until the Dissolution of the convent, when it was made parochial, and 
 dedicated to St. James the Less instead of the Virgin Mary. In the Sutherland View 
 of 1543, we see it far in the fields. In 1623, the steeple and tower both fell, and 
 destroyed part of the church ; both were rebuilt. In 1788, the whole was taken 
 down, rebuilt by Carr, and consecrated in 1792. In the vaults are preserved some 
 coffins from the old church, and among them that of Bishop Burhet, who died 
 1714-1 5 in St. John's-square, close by, though the fanatic rabble threw dirt and stones 
 at his funeral procession. His handsome mural monument was removed to the present 
 church, which has a peal of eight musical bells. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S, Garlick Hithe, on the east side of Garlick-hill, Upper Thames-street, is 
 named from its being near the chief garlick market of the City. It was rebuilt, in 
 1326 : among the persons interred here was Richard Lyons, a wine-merchant and 
 lapidary, beheaded in Cheapside by Wat Tyler in the reign of Richard II. Stow 
 describes his " picture on his gravestone very fair and large, with his hair rounded by 
 his ears, and curled ; a little beard forked ; a gown girt to him down to his feet, of 
 branched damask, wrought with the likeness of flowers : a large purse on his right side 
 hanging in a belt from his left shoulder ; a plain hood about his neck, covering his 
 shoulders, and hanging back behind him." The following citizens who had served 
 Mayor were also buried here : John of Oxenford, Mayor in 1341 ; Sir John Wrotch, or 
 Wroth, 1360; William Venor, 1389; William More, 1385; Robert Chichell, 1421 ; 
 James Spencer, 1527. The old church was destroyed in the Great Fire : it was 
 rebuilt by Wren, 1676-83, with a tower and lantern, 98 feet high, and a projecting 
 clock-dial, with a carved and gilt figure of St. James : a large organ, built by Bernard 
 Schmidt, in 1697 ; and a clever altar-picture of the Ascension, by A. Geddes. In this 
 church Steele heard the Common-Prayer service read so distinctly, so emphatically, and 
 so fervently, that it was next to an impossibility to be inattentive. Steele proposed that 
 this excellent reader (Mr. Philip Stubbs, afterwards Archdeacon of St. Albau's), 
 upon the next and every annual assembly of the clergy of Sion College, and all other 
 convocations, should read before them. Spectator, No. 147, August 18, 1711. 
 
 Here is a curious story, by Newcourt, of Arthur Bulkley, D.D., Rector of St. James's 
 in 1531, who was promoted to the Bishopric of Bangor in 1541. " This man sold away 
 five fair bells out of the steeple of his cathedral, and it is certainly reported, that going 
 to the sea-side to see them shipped off, he had not set three steps on his way home- 
 ward before he was stricken with blindness, so that he never saw afterwards." 
 
 ST. JAMES THE LESS, Garden-street, Westminster, was built in 1861, at the expense 
 of Miss Monk, in memory of her father, the late Bishop Monk, of Gloucester, a 
 Canon of Westminster ; G. E. Street, architect ; style, Byzantine Gothic ; cost about 
 85001. The church is situated in the poor district of St. Mary, Tothill-fields. It 
 consists of a Nave and Chancel, with north and south aisles to both. It has a detached 
 steeple, forming ante-porch, with porch connecting it with the north aisle. The height 
 of the tower and slated spire is 134 feet. The materials used are mainly red and 
 black bricks, stone, and marble. The apse has windows of three lights, with a rose- 
 window in the head, filled with stained glass, representing types and antitypes of 
 Christ. Between these descend the groining-ribs, to rest upon banded shafts of 
 polished marble. The reredos below the line of lights is of white stone, inlaid (with 
 a black composition) with figures of holy women, commencing on the left with Mary
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 160 
 
 the mother of James, then Mary Magdalen, St. Elizabeth, and the Virgin Mary ; then, 
 on the other side of the reredos proper, come the wife of Manoah, Hannah, Ruth, and 
 Sarah. Bands of red and yellow tiles are inserted between these figures, which are 
 represented in niches, dividing them into twos. Immediately over the altar is a cross 
 of vari-coloured Irish marbles, set with studs of Derbyshire spar. Within the apse 
 come the transept aisles ; in that on the left is the Organ. Two drop arches, on 
 broad shafts of polished granite, with carved caps, and resting on tall plinths (the 
 height of the choir seats), divide these Transept aisles from the Choir. Each Transept 
 aisle is, in itself, divided by a shaft of Bath stone in its centre, whence spring arches 
 to the side piers of the Choir. The two shafts which are on each side of the Nave are 
 of polished red granite, with bands of Bath stone midway of their heights ; the caps 
 are carved, illustrative of the Parables and Miracles. Over the Chancel arch is a fresco 
 painted by G. F. Watts, representing a sitting figure of Our Lord in the centre, 
 with groups of angels on each side, and the four Evangelists below, on a gold ground. 
 The pulpit is of stone and marble, and is very richly sculptured : it contains figures of 
 the four Doctors of the Western Church and the four Evangelists, and on the panels, 
 which are divided from each other by shafts of green marble, are illustrations of 
 preaching : 1. St. John the Baptist preaching ; 2. Dispute with the Doctors ; 
 3. The Sermon on the Mount; 4. St. Augustine of Canterbury preaching. The 
 Chancel is groined in brick, with stone ribs. The screens and gates round the 
 Chancel are of wrought iron and ornamental brasswork. The pavement of the body 
 of the church is formed of Maw's tiles, and that of the Chancel has marble inserted. 
 The steps leading to the Chancel and altar are of black Isle of Man limestone. 
 The roof has been painted by Clayton and Bell, with the Tree of Jesse and the 
 Genealogy of our Lord, typical busts of the personages being introduced in medal- 
 lions along the sides of the span in a line on either hand. The stained glass through- 
 out is also by Clayton and Bell. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S, Piccadilly, or St. James's, Westminster, was built by Wren, at the 
 cost of Her.ry Jermyn, Earl of St. Alban's, whose arms are placed above the south 
 door; consecrated Sunday, July 13, 1684; it'vras originally a chapel of ease, and con- 
 stituted a parish church in 16S3. It has a tower and spire, 150 feet high ; the latter ' 
 was not the work of Wren. It was built a few years after the church, and was from a 
 design supplied by one Mr. Wilcox, a carpenter in the parish, which, strange to 
 say, was made choice of by the Vestry in preference to a design for the same furnished 
 by Wren himself, the cost of the erection of which was estimated to exceed the other 
 by only 1001. It was covered with cement in 1850, when the interior of the church 
 was repaired throughout. The clock was the gift of Mr. H. Massey, and the original 
 dial was gilded and painted by Mr. Highmore, H.M. Serjeant- Painter : its diameter is , 
 10 feet. The interior, Wren's masterpiece, is in its plan Basilical, Nave and aisles i 
 being formed by two ranges of six piers and columns, in two stories. The piers, I 
 which are of the Doric order, panelled, carry the galleries ; the fronts of the latter j 
 of oak, with carved enrichments, forming the entablature of the order, with a low 
 attic above, to complete the breastwork. The upper order is the Corinthian ; columns 
 rise from the breastwork of the galleries, and the highly -enriched entablature of these, 
 stretching across from each column to the side walls, serves as imposts to a series of 
 transverse arches from column to column, forming the covering of the aisles ; whilst 
 from the abacuses also springs the great semicircular vault that covers the Nave ; the 
 whole roof being divided into sunk panels, ornamented with festoons of drapery and 
 flowers in relief, " producing," as Mr. J. Gwilt observes, " by its unity, richness, and 
 harmonious proportions, a result truly enchanting." These ceilings and their enrich- 
 ments, as now seen, were put up in 1837, when the decayed state of the timbers had 
 rendered an entire new roof to the church necessary. The work was strictly a restora- 
 tion. Wren, in a letter printed by Eluies, says : " I can hardly think it practicable 
 to make a single room so capacious, with pews and galleries, as to hold 2000 persona^ L- 
 and all to hear the service and see the preacher. I endeavoured to effect this in build- 
 ing the parish church of St. James's, Westminster, which, I presume, is the most 
 capacious, with these qualifications, that hath yet been built."
 
 170 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The noble Organ was built for James II., and intended for his Roman Catholic 
 Oratory at Whitehall, but given to this parish by Queen Mary in 1691. 
 
 It is in two oaken cases, standing one before the other, the organist's place being between them ; his 
 face to the great organ, and his back to the smaller one, to the latter of which the action passes beneath 
 his feet and seat. The great case is in the florid style of the period of its original construction (Louis 
 XIV.). The carving of Fames, angels, cherubs' heads, &c. with which it is adorned, strikingly mark, 
 by their great beauty, the master-hand of Gibbons. This favourite old instrument, originally made by 
 the celebrated Renatus Harris, anno 1678, was entirely rebuilt by the late Mr. Bishop, in 1852, on a 
 much more comprehensive scale, but retaining the old pipes for these, the mellowing hand of time 
 had rendered of more than ordinary value when also the old case was restored, with the original 
 decoration, and the detached front choir added. 
 
 In 1738, the Prince of Wales gave crimson velvet and gold hangings, valued at 
 700/., for the holy table and pulpit. The end above the altar-screen is nearly all 
 occupied by a Venetian window, in 1846 filled with stained and painted glass. 
 
 The window is illustrative by six principal pictures one to a compartment of the narrative of our 
 Blessed Lord's Sacrifice for the Redemption of Mankind. In the lower central division is displayed the 
 Crucifixion, with the praying in the Garden of Gethsemane, on the left; and the Bearing of the Cross 
 on the right. The upper central compartment is the Ascension, with the Entombment on the left, and 
 the Resurrection on the right. Very wide mosaic borders surround each of these pictures, in which, as 
 well as in the other parts of the filling in, are numerous minute representations of other scriptural 
 subjects ; with details of immense variety, consisting of religious emblems, symbols, monograms, &c. 
 &o. For this glass Wailes, of Newcastle, received 1000Z. 
 
 It is intended also to fill in with stained and painted glass the whole of the ten gallery windows, 
 designed to form, when completed, a series of paintings, illustrative of the history of our Blessed 
 Saviour's life and ministry, commencing with the " Nativity," in the easternmost window on the south 
 side the succeeding windows to carry on the subj ect, progressively, as follows : Xo. 2. The Adoration of 
 the Magi ; 3. Baptism of Christ ; 4. Christ and the Woman of Samaria ; 5. Christ with Peter on the 
 Sea. And returning eastward on the north side with 6. The Transfiguration ; 7. Christ with Martha 
 and Mary ; 8. Christ Blessing Little Children ; 9. The Raising of Lazarus ; 10. Entry into Jerusalem. 
 Thus connecting the narrative with the Passion, as represented in the great altar window. Nos. 2 and 
 4 have been executed (also by Mr. Wailes) at a cost of 1251. each. 
 
 Evelyn, in his Diary, thus describes the altar and east end of the church : 
 
 Dec. 16, 1684. I went to see the new church at St. James's, elegantly built. The altar was especially 
 adorned, the white marble inclosure curiously and richly carved, the flowers and garlands about the 
 walls by Mr. Gibbons, in wood : a pelican, with her young at her breast, just over the altar in the carv'd 
 compartment and border invirpning the purple velvet fringed with (black) I. H. S. richly embroidered, 
 and most noble plate, were given by Sir R. Geere, to the value (as was said) of 2001. There was no 
 altar anywhere in England, nor has there been any abroad, more handsomely adorned." 
 
 The wood is lime, with cedar for the reredos ; the marble scrolls have been replaced 
 by bronze. In addition, a noble festoon ending in two pendants, which extends nearly 
 the whole length of the screen, displays all the varied representations of fruit and 
 flowers, in the highest relief. This elaborate and delicate work having become much 
 injured by the casualties of 160 years, was in 1846 thoroughly repaired by two Italian 
 artists a work of protracted labour ; several thousand bits of carving, more or less 
 minute, requiring to be added, in order to restore the groupings to their pristine state. 
 
 Facing the western entrance is the white marble fort, exquisitely sculptured by 
 Gibbons : it is nearly five feet high, and the bowl is about six feet in circumference. 
 The shaft represents the tree of life, with the serpent twining round it, and offering 
 the forbidden fruit to Eve, who, with Adam, stands beneath : these figures are 18 
 inches high. On the bowl are bas-reliefs of the Baptism of the Saviour in the Jordan ; 
 the Baptizing of the Treasurer of Candace by St. Philip the Deacon ; and the Ark of 
 Noah, with the dove bearing the olive-branch. The cover of this font (shown in 
 Vertue's engraving), held by a flying angel and a group of cherubim, was stolen about 
 the beginning of the present century, and subsequently hung up as a sign at a spirit- 
 shop in the neighbourhood. (Brayley's Londiniana, vol. ii. p. 282.) 
 
 In the church are interred Charles Cotton, the companion of Walton in the Com- 
 plete Angler; Dr. Sydenham, with a marble tablet erected by the College of Physicians, 
 in 1810; Hayman, the portrait-painter ; the two Vanderveldes, the marine painters; 
 and Michael Dahl, the Swedish portrait-painter ; Dr. Arbuthnot, the friend of Pope, 
 Swift, Gay, and Prior ; Benjamin Stillingfleet, the naturalist, so touchingly deplored 
 by Pennant, in the preface to his British Zoology ; Dr. Akenside, the poet ; James 
 Dodsley, the bookseller, with a tablet ; G. H. Harlow, who painted " The Trial of 
 Queen Katherine;" also Sir John Malcolm. Here lies Thomas d'Urfey, dramatist 
 and song- writer, to whom there is a tablet on the outer south face of the church-tower, 
 inscribed " Tom d'Urfey, dyed February 26, 1723." In the vestry are the portraits of 
 the St. James's rectors, that of Dr. Birch alone missing : the first rector, Dr. Tenison ;
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 171 
 
 the third, Dr. Wake ; and the seventh, Dr. Seeker; became Archbishops of Canterbury. 
 (See Walcott's Handbook of St. James's.) 
 
 Nollekens, the sculptor, when a kd, had an idle propensity for bell-tolling, and 
 whenever his master missed him, and the dead-bell of St. James's Church was tolling, 
 he knew perfectly well what "Joey" was at. 
 
 The church exterior and interior were in 1857 greatly improved ; and an ornamental 
 arched entrance to the churchyard, and a large Vestry-hall erected. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S, Shoreditch, Curtain-road, of Early English architecture, erected 1838, 
 " stands on a site occupied by a theatre in Shakspeare's time. He lived close by, in a 
 place called Gillum's Field. At this theatre a curtain was for the first time used; 
 hence the name of the road. The theatre was afterwards removed to South Lambeth. 
 Tradition says that Shakspeare himself acted at the theatre, and that his Hamlet was 
 first performed there." Mackeson's Churches. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S, Spa-road, Bermondsey, contains a large altar-picture, painted for 5001., 
 by John Wood, upon conditions detailed at p, 49. The subject is the Ascension of our 
 Saviour ; the figures are considerably above the natural size : on a canvas of 275 square 
 feet (25 feet by 11), in the upper part, a full-length figure of the Saviour occupies 
 nearly one-half of the picture ; a nimbus around the head illumining the upper sky ; the 
 eleven disciples are in various positions, standing, kneeling, prostrated, with uplifted 
 hands and faces, and bodies bent with 'reverential awe and devotion; and their personal 
 identity, costume, and colouring, are very successful. 
 
 ST. JOHN'S, formerly ST. ATJGTJSTIN'S, at Hackney, was taken down in 1798, except 
 the tower, of the sixteenth century, which still remains, with a clock and a peal of 
 eight bells ; the body of the church was rebuilt northward of the ancient edifice ; 
 eastward is the chapel of the Howe family, built in 1614, and preserved as a 
 mausoleum. The churchyard has thoroughfare paths, lined with lofty trees, but 
 the funereal yew is not among them. The old church, before its demolition, was ex- 
 tremely rich in monuments and brasses, some of which were removed to the porches 
 and vestibules of the new church. 
 
 ST. JOHN'S, Bethnal Green, designed by Sir John Soane in 1828, was the first church 
 consecrated by Bishop Blomfield in the diocese of London. (See Gentleman's Maga- 
 zine, Feb. 1831.) 
 
 ST. JOHN'S, Clerkenwell, a modern church,' in St. John's-square, has an ancient 
 crypt (part of the Priory of St. John of Jerusalem), in which the detection of the 
 Cock-lane Ghost hoax was consummated. 
 
 " While drawing in the crypt of St. John's, Clerkenwell, in a narrow cloister on the north side (there 
 being at that time coffins, and fragments of shrouds, and human remains lying about in disorder), the 
 sexton's boy pointed to one of the coffins, and said the woman in it was ' Scratching Fanny.' This 
 reminding me of the business of the Cock-lane Ghost, I removed the lid oi' the coffin, which was loose, 
 and saw the body of a woman, which had become adipocere; the lace perfect, handsome oval, with 
 aquiline nose. [Will not arsenic produce adipocere?] She was said to have been poisoned, although 
 the charge is understood to have been disproved. I inquired of one of the churchwardens of the time- 
 (Mr. Bird, I believe), and he said the coffin had always been understood to contain the body of the 
 woman whose spirit was said to have haunted the house in Cock-lane." Communicated by John Wyke- 
 Jiam Archer, 1851. 
 
 ST. JOHN THE EVANGELIST, Charlotte-street, Fitzroy-square, designed by Hugh 
 Smith, in the Norman or Romanesque style, was opened in 1846, its west front having 
 two towers, and a spire 120 feet high, and a large wheel-window beneath the inter- 
 vening gable. The second spire has not been built. 
 
 ST. JOHN THE EVANGELIST, Horselydown, one of the Fifty New Churches (10 
 Anne), was finished in 1732 : it has a tower, with an ill-proportioned Scamozzian Ionic 
 column, seen to the eastward from the London and Greenwich Railway. 
 
 ST. JOHN THE EVANGELIST, Smith-square, Westminster, was the second built of the 
 Fifty New Churches (10 Anne), finished in 1728, after the designs of Archer, pupil of 
 Vanbrugh; before which it began to settle, and a tower and lantern-turret were 
 added at each corner to strengthen the main building ; " and these would have been,
 
 172 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 beautiful accompaniments to the central tower and spire intended by the architect." 
 \2Sltnes.) These towers reminded Lord Chesterfield of an elephant thrown on its 
 back, with its four feet erect in the air ; and Charles Mathews, of a dining-table up- 
 side-down, with its four legs and castors. Meanwhile, justice has not been done to the 
 originality and powers of the architect : the whole composition is impressive, and its 
 boldness loses nothing by the graceful playfulness of the outline ; it has some in- 
 accuracies of detail, but is, altogether, a very striking production of the Vanbnigh 
 school. (Donaldson.) It has semicircular apses east and west, and imposing Doric 
 porticoes north and south. The interior of the church (said to have been the first in 
 London lit with gas) is without columns, and is highly embellished : the east window- 
 is filled with ancient painted glass brought from Normandy ; and above the altar-table 
 is a copy of the celebrated picture of Christ bearing his Cross, by Ribalta, in the 
 Chapel of St. Mary Magdalen College, Oxford. The elegant marble font, designed by 
 C. Barry, jun., sculptured by J. Thomas, was placed here in 1847. The Organ, 
 erected by a German builder, in 1727, and repaired by Hill, in 1840, is handsome and 
 powerful. Churchill, the satirist, born in the parish, succeeded his father in 1758, in 
 the curacy and lectureship of this church : he soon disgraced the holy office, and substi- 
 tuted for the clerical costume a blue coat, gold-laced waistcoat and hat, and large 
 ruffles ; remonstrances ensued, and he resigned. 
 
 St. John's burial-ground contains "the ashes of an Indian chief, who died of small-pox, in 1734, and' 
 was buried in the presence of the Emperor Toma, after the custom of the Karakee Creeks, sewn up in 
 two blankets, between two deal boards, with his clothes, some silver coins, and a few glass beads." 
 Walcott's Weitminster, p. 314. 
 
 ST. JOHN THE EVANGELIST, Waterloo-road, was built in 1822-24, from the design 
 of F. Bedford : it has a Grecian-Doric hexastyle portico, and lofty steeple, with an 
 excellent peal of eight bells ; tenor, 1900 Ibs. weight. The font is of white marble, and 
 was brought from Italy. In a vault here is interred R. W. Elliston, the comedian. 
 The site of St. John's was a swamp and horse-pond; the district commences at the 
 middle of Westminster Bridge, whence an imaginary boundary-line passes through the 
 middle of the River Thames and Waterloo Bridge. 
 
 ST. JOHN OF JERUSALEM, South Hackney, Middlesex ; a large and beautiful church 
 in the best Pointed style, thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, by E. C. Hakewill; 
 consecrated July 20, 1848. The plan is cruciform, with a tower and spire of 
 equal height, together rising 187 feet; the latter has graceful lights and broaches, and 
 the four Evangelists beneath canopies at the four angles ; the Nave has side aisles 
 with flying buttresses to the clerestory ; each Transept is lit by a magnificent window, 
 29 feet high ; and the Choir has an apsis with seven lancet windows : entire external 
 length, 192 feet; materials, Kentish rag and Speldhurst stone. The principal entrance 
 is at the west, through a screen of open arches. The roof, of open-work, is of 60 feet 
 highest pitch, with massive arched and foliated ribs; and the meeting of the Transepts, 
 Chancel, and Nave is very effective. The Chancel has a stone roof, and the walls of the 
 apse are painted and diapered red with fleur-de-lis, and blue powdered with stars ; the 
 pulpit and reading-desk are also diapered ; and the seats are of oak, and mostly formed 
 of stall-ends with finials : the two first seats are well-carved; on one is the crest of the 
 Rector and the badge of the patron Saint ; and on the other side the dove with the 
 olive-branch, and the lynx, as an emblem of watchfulness. All the windows are filled 
 with painted, stained, or richly-diapered glass, by Wailcs, Powell, &c. ; and a me- 
 morial clerestory window, Christ Blessing Little Children, and Raising Jairus's 
 Daughter, is beautifully painted by Ward and Nixon. The altar-floor is laid with 
 Minton's tiles ; the font is nicely sculptured ; the Organ is from the old church at 
 Hackney : the tower has a fine peal of eight bells. 
 
 ST. JOHN'S, Notting-hill, an Early English cross church, designed by Stevens and 
 Alexander, and consecrated Jan. 22, 1845, stands upon an elevated portion of Ken- 
 sington Park, facing Ladbroke Grove, and has a tower 156 feet high, seen to 
 picturesque advantage. 
 
 Si. JOHN'S, Oxford-square, Paddington, is a debased imitation of New College
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 173 
 
 Chapel in the exterior ; architect, Fowler : it possesses a good stained glass window of 
 the Twelve Apostles. 
 
 ST. JITDE'S, Gray's Inn Road, was the first church which received aid from the 
 Bishop of London's Fund ; founded, November, 1862 ; style, Early English ; archi- 
 tect, Joseph Peacock. The tower, at the south-east angle, is 100 feet high, ter- 
 minating with an iron finial. All the chancel windows are of stained glass. The 
 three lancet windows, the gift of a lady, represent the Birth, Crucifixion, and Resurrec- 
 tion, of Our Lord. The large rose-window is a thank-offering of the congregation : in 
 the centre circle is the Ascension ; and in the tracery around the Annunciation are 
 Disputing in the Temple, the Baptism, the Agony, Bearing the Cross, the First 
 Appearance to Mary, the Journey to Erninaus, and the Pentecost. The reredos is of 
 Caen stone, and represents the Last Supper carved in relief, the wall on each side being 
 richly covered with tiles in pattern. The Organ, which is of original arrangement, is 
 in the Chancel aisle, under the tower, and is free and open to the choir. 
 
 ST. LAWRENCE JEWRY, King-street, Cheapside, was commenced by Wren, in 1671, 
 upon the site of the old church, destroyed in the Great Fire : it has a tower and 
 steeple 130 feet high, with, for a vane, a gilt gridiron, the emblem of St. Lawrence ; 
 the east end, in King-street, is so pure as to be almost Grecian. The interior has 
 some excellent plaster-work, in wreaths and branches ; and the organ-case, pulpit, and 
 doorways are richly-carved oak. In the centre is a large pew for the Lord Mayor and 
 Common Council, the church being used for Corporation Sermons. Here Tillotson was 
 Tuesday lecturer ; was married 1663-4 ; and buried in 1694, three years after he was 
 consecrated Archbishop of Canterbury : his sculptured monument is on the north wall 
 of the church. The Vestry -room walls are entirely cased with fine dark carved oak ; 
 and the ceiling has elaborate plaster foliage, and a painting, by Thornhill, of St. Law- 
 rence. In the old church, mentioned 1293, was buried Thomas Boleyn, Earl of Wilt- 
 shire, whose daughter Anna married King Henry VIII., and was the mother of Queen 
 Elizabeth : here lay also the remains of Richard Rich, mercer (d. 1469), from whom de- 
 scended the Earls of Warwick. There are a fine peal of bells, two good windows by 
 Clayton and Bell, and an excellent Organ by Schmidt. 
 
 ST, LEONARD'S, Eastcheap, destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt, had a curious 
 affix. Newcourt oddly says : " On Fish-street-hill, in the Ward of Bridge Within, 
 stood St. Leonard Milk Church, so called after one William Melker, the builder 
 thereof." 
 
 ST. LEONARD'S, Shoreditch (anciently Soresdich), occupies the site of a church 
 mentioned in grants early in the thirteenth century. The last church (which had four 
 gables in a line, and a low square tower) was taken down in 1736 : and the present 
 church built by the elder Dance in 1740 : it has a steeple imitated from that of St. 
 Mary-le-Bow, Cheapside, and a fine peal of twelve bells. The Organ is by Bridge. 
 
 Holywell-street, in this parish, now High-street, Shoreditch, was in the reign of Queen Elizabeth 
 and James I. inhabited by players of distinction, connected with the Curtain Theatre, the Blackfriars 
 Theatre, and the Globe on the Bankside. The parish register (within a period of sixty years) records 
 the interment of the following celebrated characters : Will Sommers, Henry VIll.'s jester; Richard 
 Tarlton, the famous clown of Queen Elizabeth's time ; James Burbage, and his more celebrated son, 
 Richard Burbage ; Gabriel Spenser, the player, who fell in 1598, in a duel with Ben Jonson ; William 
 Sly and Richard Cowley, two original performers in Shakspeare's plays ; the Countess of Rutland, the 
 only child of the famous Sir Philip Sidney ; Portunatus Greene, the unfortunate offspring of Robert 
 Greene, the poet and player. Another original performer in Shakspeare's plays, who lived in Holywell- 
 street, in this parish, was Nicholas Williamson alias Tooley, whose name is recorded in gilt letters on 
 the north side of the altar as a yearly benefactor of 61. 10*., still distributed in bread every year to the 
 poor of the parish, to whom it was bequeathed. Cunningham's Handbook, p. 285. 
 
 In the register is entered, among the " Burialles, Thomas Cam, y e 22d inst. of 
 Januarye, 1588, Aged 207 years, Holywell-street. George Garrow, parish clerk." [Is 
 not 2 written for 1 in the number of years ?] At St. Leonard's is annually preached the 
 endowed Lecture founded by Mr. Thomas Fairchild, gardener, who carried on his busi- 
 ness in Selb/s Gardens, extending from the west end of Ivy -lane to the New North-road. 
 By his will, in 1728, he bequeathed the sum of 2ol., the interest of which he desired 
 might be given annually to the lecturer of St. Leonard's, for preaching on Whit- 
 Tuesday a sermon on " The Wonderful Works of God in the Creation," or "OntheCer-
 
 174 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 tainty of the Besurrection of the Dead, proved by certain changes of the Animal and 
 Vegetable parts of the Creation." The bequest came into operation in 1730, and has 
 been continued ever since. The sum bequeathed by Mr. Fairchild was increased by 
 subscriptions to 1001. South-Sea Annuities, producing 3Z. per annum, which was trans- 
 ferred to the President and Council of the Royal Society. To the subscription added 
 to the bequest, Archdeacon Denne added 29Z. out of the money he, the first lecturer, 
 Lad received for preaching the sermon. It was the custom for the President and 
 Fellows of the Royal Society to hear this sermon preached. Stukeley records : 
 " Whitsunday, June 4, 1750, 1 went with Mr. Folkes, and other Fellows, to Shoreditch, 
 to hear Dr. Denne preach Fairchild's sermon, On the Beautys of the Vegetable World. 
 We were entertained by Mr. Whetman, the vinegar-merchant, at his elegant house by 
 Moorfields ; a pleasant place, encompassed with gardens well stored with all sorts of 
 curious flowers and shrubs, where we spent the day very agreeably, enjoying all the 
 pleasures of the country in town, with, the addition of philosophical company." 
 MS. Journal. 
 
 ST. LUKE'S, Nutford-place, Edgware-road, was erected in 1856, Ewan Christian, 
 architect, as a thank-offering for the exemption from cholera, where, at the time, fifty 
 in a thousand was the rate of mortality in some parishes, and only two in a thousand 
 suffered. The cost was 13,782?., of which 6000Z. was for the site ; the church was 
 built chiefly for working-men, by whom it is well attended. 
 
 ST. LUKE'S CHUKCH, Chelsea (the Old Church), near the river, consists of a Nave, 
 Chancel, and side aisles ; the chancel rebuilt early in the sixteenth century ; chapel at 
 the east end added by Sir Thomas More about 1520 ; and the tower of brick, built 
 1667-1674. The interior has been much altered. Its tombs of " divers persons of 
 quality" are very interesting. In the chancel is an ancient altar-tomb, without in- 
 scription, supposed to belong to a Bray, of Eton. Here, on the south wall, is the 
 black marble tablet, erected by Sir Thomas More, in 1532 (see ante, p. 90), with 
 the famous biographical epitaph, in Latin, from More's own pen, and the following to 
 More and his two wives : 
 
 "Chara THOM.E jacet hie JOANNA uxorcula MOBI, 
 
 Qui tumulum ALICIA hunc destinp, quique inihi. 
 Una mihi dedit hoc conjuncta virentibus annis, 
 
 Me vocet ut puer, et trina puella patrem. 
 Altera privignis (quse gloria rara noverete est) 
 
 Tarn pia, quam quatis, vis fuit ulla suis. 
 Altera sic mecum visit, sic altera vivit, 
 
 Charior incertum est, quce sit an ilia fuit. 
 siraul, O juncti poteramus viyere nostros, 
 
 Quam bcne, si fatum religioque sinant. 
 At societ tumulus, societ nos, obsecro, coclum ! 
 
 Sic mors, non potuit quod dare vita, dabit." 
 
 This elegant Latin is considered to be not excelled by any epitaph in that or any 
 other language. In the biographical epitaph, the word " hereticisque" was purposely 
 omitted when the monument was restored on both occasions : there is a blank space 
 loft. Over the tomb are the crest of Sir Thomas More, namely, a Moor's head ; the 
 arms of himself and his two wives. 
 
 Sir Thomas More is stated to have been buried here, but this is disputed : most probably, he was 
 buried in the chapel of St. Peter-in-the-Towcr ; though Aubrey distinctly states that "after More was 
 beheaded, his trunk was interred in Chelsey Church," beneath the monument already described. The 
 decapitated head of More was long kept in the Tudor mansion of Baynard's, in Surrey, by More's favourite 
 daughter, Margaret Eoper, who once lived here. The skull of Sir Thomas was finally deposited in the 
 vault of the Ropers, in St. Dunstan's Church, in the suburbs of Canterbury, where it was seen by . 
 W. Brayley, about sixty years ago. (See Note in Brayley's Survey, vol. v. p. 183.) 
 
 The Rev. Mr. Blunt suggests that the ancient dedication of the church was to All Saints, though 
 it has long been appropriated to St. Luke. The Chancel, with the chantries north and south of it, are 
 the only portions of ancient work left. The north chantry, called the Manor Chantry, once contained 
 the monuments of the Brays, now in very imperfect condition ; having been destroyed or removed to 
 make space for those of the Gervoise family. There remains, however, an ancient brass in the floor. 
 Of the south, or More Chantry, Mr. Blunt states that the monument of Sir Thomas More was removed 
 from it to the chancel, and the chantry had been occupied by the monuments of the Georges family, now 
 also removed, displaced, and destroyed. Notwithstanding the current contrary opinion, founded on 
 Aubrey's assertion, the More monument (says Mr. Blunt) is the original one for which Sir Thomas More 
 himself dictated the epitaph. 
 
 Mr. Burnell, the architect of the improvements effected subsequently to 1857, speaks positively as 
 to the non-existence of a crypt which conjecture had placed under the More chantry. The foundation
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 175 
 
 of the west end of the church, before it was enlarged in 1666, he found west of Lord Dacre's tomb. On 
 the north side of the chancel an aumbry, and on the south a piscina, were found, coeval with the chancel 
 (early fourteenth century). The arch between the More Chantry and the chancel is a specimen of 
 Italian workmanship, dated 1528 ; a date confirmed by the objects represented in the carved ornaments, 
 those objects being connected with the Roman Catholic ritual. It is a remarkably early instance of the 
 use of Italian architecture in this country. 
 
 Here are these monuments : one with kneeling figures, to Thomas Hungerford ; to 
 the daughter of Sir Theodore Mayerne, wife of Peter de Caumont, Marquis de Cugnac ; 
 Jane Dudley, Duchess of Northumberland, beheaded for proclaiming Lady Jane Grey, 
 mother of Queen Elizabeth's favourite, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester ; her daughter 
 Mary was the mother of Sir Philip Sidney [" her monument at east end of south 
 chapel is not unlike Chaucer's in Westminster Abbey, but sadly mutilated ;" Cun- 
 ningham] ; Gregory, Lord Dacre, and Lady Ann, his wife : the latter founded the 
 almshouses in Westminster which bear her name ; she was sister to Sackville, Earl of 
 Dorset, the poet. In a chapel of the north aisle lie the Laurence family, after whom 
 " Lawrence-street," Chelsea, was called. In the same aisle is the monument (said by 
 Walpole to be by Bernini, and cost 500Z.), to Lady Jane Cheyne, and wife of Charles 
 Cheyne, Esq., whence Cheyne-row ; she is represented lying on her right side, and 
 leaning on a Bible. 
 
 In the south-west corner of the church is a mural monument to Dr. Edward 
 Chamberlayne, with a punning Latin epitaph : it mentions that some of his books 
 [MSS.], inclosed in wax, were buried with him ; yet when his tomb fell into decay 
 not a vestige of them could be found. From a Latin epitaph on his daughter, we 
 learn that on June 30, 1690, she fought valiantly in men's clothing six hours against 
 the French, on board a fire-ship under the command of her brother. 
 
 In the church are interred, ivithout monuments, the mother of John Fletcher, the 
 poet ; the mother of George Herbert and Lord Herbert of Cherbury : Dr. Donne 
 preached her funeral sermon in this church, and Izaak Walton tells us he heard him ; 
 Thomas Shadwell, the Mac-Flecknoe : his funeral sermon was preached in this church 
 by Nicholas Brady, Nahum Tate's associate in the Psalms ; Abel Boyer, author of a 
 Life of Queen Anne and the French Dictionary which bears his name ; Cipriani, the 
 elegant painter and designer ; Dr. Martyn, translator of Virgil ; Henry Mossop, the 
 actor ; Dr. Kenrick, the annotator of Shakspeare ; Sir John Fielding, the magistrate ; 
 and Henry Sampson Woodfall, printer of Junius. 
 
 In the churchyard is the mystic monument of the great naturalist and virtuoso, Sir 
 Hans Sloane, M.D., who attended Queen Anne in her last illness, and was the first 
 medical man created a baronet ; his collections became the nucleus of the British 
 Museum. Here, too, is a pyramidal monument erected by the Linnean and Horticul- 
 tural Societies to Philip Miller, author of the Gardeners' Dictionary ; he was nearly 
 fifty years gardener to the Apothecaries' Company's Garden at Chelsea. 
 
 The Register, under Feb. 13, 1577-8, records the baptism of " Charles, a boy by 
 estimacon 10 or 12 yers olde, brought by Sir Walter Rawlis from Guiane." John 
 Larke, presented to the rectory of Chelsea, in 1530, by Sir Thomas More, was exe- 
 cuted at Tyburn, in 1544, for following the example of his patron, in denying the 
 King's supremacy. 
 
 ST. LTTKE'S NEW CHTJECH, Chelsea, was founded in 1820 ; Savage, architect, one of 
 the restorers of the Temple Church ; style, Gothic, 14th and 15th centuries. The build- 
 ing is of brick, cased with Bath stone. It has a pinnacled tower, 142 feet high, with 
 arcaded entrance porch. The north and south fronts have bold buttresses ; and the 
 east front is magnificent. The vaulting, 60 feet in height, is entirely of stone ; and 
 tinder the clerestory windows is a triforium ; the Nave is divided from the aisles by an 
 arcade and clustered pillars. The altar-screen is ably sculptured, and in the centre is 
 a picture of the Ascension, stated to be by Northcote. The interior length of the 
 church is 130 feet. The Organ, built by Nicholls, contains 33 stops and 1876 pipes, 
 and is one of the most powerful instruments in the metropolis. 
 
 In the churchyard lie Blanchard and Egerton, the actors, side by side. Captain 
 M'Leod, who wrote the Voyage of the Alceste, 1817 ; and Alexander Stephens, who 
 wrote a Life of John Some Tooke, and edited the Annual Biography and Obituary. 
 In a cemetery in the King's-road, given to St. Luke's parish in 1733, by Sir Hans
 
 176 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Sloane, is buried Andrew Millar, the bookseller, who lived in the Strand, " at 
 Buchanan's Head" (seehis imprint to Thomson's Seasons') ; his grave is marked by an 
 obelisk in the centre of the ground. 
 
 ST. LUKE'S, near the centre of Old- street -road, is one of the fifty Queen Anne 
 churches, and was consecrated on St. Luke's day, Oct. 16, 1733. It is built of stone, 
 and has an obelisk spire, a masterpiece of absurdity. The parish was taken out of St. 
 Giles's, Cripplegate. 
 
 ST. MAGNUS THE MAETYH, London Bridge, was burnt in the Great Fire, and 
 rebuilt by Wren, 1676. It has a tower, octagon lantern, cupola, and spire, added 
 in 1705, which are very picturesque. The footway under the tower, on the east side, 
 was made in 1760, through the recesses and groined arches originally formed in the 
 main building by Wren, as if he had seen its necessity whenever the street leading to 
 Old London Bridge required widening. 
 
 This improvement was made after the destruction of the church roof by fire, April 18, 1760, which 
 began in an oilman's premises in Thames-street, adjoining the church, and consumed seven houses and 
 all the warehouses on Fresh Wharf. This conflagration was occasioned by the neglect of a servant, 
 who left some inflammable substances boiling while he went to sec Karl Ferrers return from his trial and 
 condemnation for murder : before the man could get back, the shop was in llames. 
 
 Miles Coverdale was for a short time rector of St. Magnus : he was buried in St. 
 Bartholomew's by the Exchange, which being taken down in 1840, Coverdale's remains 
 were removed, and interred in St. Magnus', where a monument to his memory was 
 erected in 1837. 
 
 The inscription upon Coverdale's tomb states: "On the 4th of October, 1535, the first complete 
 English version of the Bible was published under his direction." The third centenary of this et cut 
 was celebrated by the clergy throughout the churches of England, October 4, 1835; and several medals 
 were struck upon the occasion. 
 
 The handsomely carved and gilt projecting dial, affixed to St. Magnus' tower, was the 
 gift of Sir Charles Duncomb, in 1709, and cost 485?. 5s. 4d. : Sir Charles, it is related, 
 when a poor boy, had once to wait upon London Bridge a considerable time for his master, 
 whom he missed through not knowing the hour ; he then vowed that if ever he became 
 successful in the world, he would give to St. Magnus' a public clock, that passengers 
 might see the time ; and this dial proves the fulfilment of his vow. It was originally 
 ornamented with several richly gilded figures : upon a small metal shield inside the clock 
 are engraven the donor's arms, with this inscription : " The gift of Sir Charles Duncomb, 
 Knight, Lord Maior, and Alderman of this ward. Langley Bradley fecit, 1709." 
 Sir Charles also presented the large Organ in St. Magnus' Church : it was built by 
 Jordan, in 1712, as announced in the Spectator : 
 
 " Whereas, Mr. Abraham Jordan, senior and junior, have with their own hands, joynery excepted, 
 made and erected a very large Organ in St. Magnus' Church, at the foot of London Bridge, consisting of 
 four sets of keys, one of which is adapted to the art of emitting sounds by swelling the notes, which 
 never was in any Organ before ; this instrument will be publicly opened on Sunday next, the performance 
 by Mr. John Robinson. The abovesaid Abraham Jordan gives notice to all masters and performers, 
 that he will attend every day next week at the said church, to accommodate all those gentlemen who 
 shall have a curiosity to hear it." Spectator, Feb. 8, 1712. 
 
 This instrument still exists, but has been much altered and modernized by Parsons ; 
 and at present, only three of the original four sets of keys remain. A Short Account 
 of Organs, &c., 1847. 
 
 The tower has a peal of ten bells. A bronzed or copper medalet, date 1676, bears 
 on its obverse a view of old St. Magnus' Church. Here was buried Hervey Yevele, or 
 Zenely, described by Stow as Free-Mason to Edward III., Richard II., and Henry IV. : 
 he assisted to erect the tomb of Richard II. in Westminster Abbey, between 1395 aud 
 1397, and prepared plans for raising the walls of Westminster Hall. 
 
 ST. MAEGABET'S, Lothbury, destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren in 
 1690, has a steeple 140 feet high ; two carved and painted figures of Moses and 
 Aaron, brought from St. Christopher-le-Stocks, when that church was taken down; 
 and a marble font attributed to Gibbons, resembling that in St. James's Church, Pic- 
 cadilly. The Organ is by England. 
 
 ST. MAEGAEET PATTEN'S, Fenchurch-street, destroyed in the Great Fire, and re- 
 built by Wren in 1687, contains a fine altar-picture Angels ministering to Christ in
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 177 
 
 the Garden ascribed to Carlo Maratti. About the altar-piece are some exquisitely 
 carved flowers. Against the south wall is a large monument, by Rysbrack, to Sir P. 
 Delme, Lord Mayor in 1723. The church was named from the patten-makers, who 
 formerly mostly lived in the neighbourhood. 
 
 ST. MARGARET'S parish church, Westminster, is placed a short distance from the 
 north door of Westminster Abbey : it was originally built about 1064, by Edward the 
 Confessor, for the people who had thickly settled around the Abbey, and were greatly 
 increased by those who sought here the privilege of Sanctuary. This Norman edifice 
 was destroyed, and the church rebuilt in the reign of Edward I., of which period there 
 exist a few remains. It was considerably altered in the time of Edward IV., when, 
 probably, a flight of steps led up to the church-door, the surrounding level having 
 been raised about nine feet above the original surface : a stone cross and a pulpit 
 formerly stood here, as at St. Paul's. Soon after the ancient Chapel of St. Stephen 
 had been given up for the sittings of the House of Commons, it is supposed the mem- 
 bers attended Divine Service in St. Margaret's, as the Lords went to the Abbey 
 Church. On Sept. 25, 1642, the Covenant was read from St. Margaret's pulpit, and 
 taken by both Houses of Parliament, the Assembly of Divines, and the Scots Commis- 
 sioners. Here also were preached the lengthy Fast-day Sermons; and Hugh 
 Peters, " the pulpit buifoon," persuaded the Parliament to bring Charles " to condign, 
 speedy, and capital punishment," while the churchyard was guarded by soldiers with 
 pikes and muskets. St. Margaret's did not escape plunder by the Puritans ; but in 
 1660, " the State's Arms," richly carved and gilt, were set up in the church, and they 
 are still preserved in the vestry. In 1641, a gallery was built over the north aisles; 
 and in 1681, another over the south aisles, " exclusively for persons of quality," the 
 latter erected at the expense of Sir John Cutler, the miser satirized by Pope. Doctors 
 Burnet and Sprat, old rivals, once preached here before Parliament in one morning ; 
 and on Palm Sunday, 1713, Dr. Sacheverell preached here first after the term of his 
 suspension : 40,000 copies of this sermon were sold. In 1735, St. Margaret's was 
 repaired at the expense of Parliament, when the tower was faced with Portland stone 
 and raised 20 feet, being now 85 feet high : it has a fine peal of ten bells, the tenor 
 weighing 26 cwt. In 1753 was placed over the altar-table a relievo of our Lord's 
 Supper at Emmaus, sculptured in limewood, by Alken of Soho, from Titian's celebrated 
 picture in the Louvre. In 1758, the east end was rebuilt and made apsidal ; and the 
 great east window removed, and replaced by the present beautiful cinque-cento window, 
 said to have occupied five years executing, at Gouda in Holland, intended as a present 
 from the magistrates of Dort to Henry VII. 
 
 This celebrated glass painting represents the Crucifixion, with angels receiving the blood-drops from 
 the Saviour's wounds ; an angel wafts the soul of the good thief to paradise, and a dragon (the devil) 
 bears the soul of the wicked thief to eternal punishment. The six upper compartments are filled with 
 as many angels, bearing the cross, the sponge, the crown of thorns, the hammer, the rods, and nails. 
 In the lower compartment (right) is Arthur Prince of Wales, eldest son of Henry VII., and above him 
 St. George and the red and white rose ; and to the left is Catherine of Arragon, Arthur's bride, with 
 above her the figure of St. Cecilia, and a bursting pomegranate, the emblem of Granada. The window 
 is also said to have been ordered by Ferdinand and Isabella, on Prince Arthur being affianced, in 1499, 
 to the Princess Catherine, their portraits being procured for the purpose. It was probably finished 
 after his brother's death, to be sent as a gift to Henry VIII. The king gave it to Waltham Abbey, 
 where it remained until the Dissolution, A.D. 1540; when the last abbot sent it for safety to his private 
 chapel at New Hall, which, by purchase, subsequently became the property of Sir Thomas, father cf 
 Anne Boleyn, queen of Henry VIII. The chapel remained undisturbed until General Monk becoming 
 possessor of New Hall, to save the window from destruction by the Puritans, had it buried underground. 
 After the Restoration, Monk replaced the window in the chapel. Subsequent to his death, the seat fell 
 
 into decay, and the chapel was taken down : but the window was preserved for some time cased up, 
 until purchased by Mr. Conyers, of Copt Hall, Essex, by whose son it was sold, in 1758, to the church- 
 wardens of St. Margaret's for 400 guineas : it was then placed in the church, re-opened in 1759, a fine 
 
 anthem for the occasion being composed by Dr. Boyce. A prosecution was now instituted against the 
 parishioners by the Dean and Chapter of Westminster, for putting up what was attempted to be proved 
 " a superstitious image or picture." After seven years' suit, the bill was dismissed; in memory of 
 which Mr. Churchwarden Peirson presented, as a gift for ever, to the churchwardens of the parish, a 
 richly-chased cup, stand, and cover, silver- gUt, weighing 93 oz. 15 dwt., which is the loving-cup of St. 
 Margaret's, and is produced with especial ceremony at the chief parochial entertainments. 
 
 St. Margaret's is otherwise rich in painted glass : the north-east window is filled with gold mosais 
 designs, the Holy Monogram, the red and white roses, and portcullis, and a saint (lago of Compostella?) 
 bearing an open book. The crescent beside the rose, Mr. Kickmau thought, denoted some " expectancy 
 of regal amplitude ;" so Shakspeare : 
 
 " Pompey. My power 's a crescent, and my auguring hope 
 
 Says it will come to the full." Ant. and Cleop. act ii. sc. 1. 
 
 K
 
 178 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 In this and the south-east windows are the arms of Edward the Confessor, represented as blazoned by 
 the heralds temp. Henry VIII. The saint in the centre is St. Michael overcoming the dragon. 
 Abridged from Walcott's Westminster. 
 
 The Chancel is decorated in polychrome by Willement : and over the reredos are 
 crocketed canopies, coloured ruby, azure, and emerald diaper, and richly gilded. In 
 1802, the present beautifully carved pulpit and reading-desk, by Lenox, were erected ; 
 the Speaker's chair of state was placed in the front of the west gallery ; and a new 
 Organ, by Avery, was built. Altogether, the votes of the House of Commons for the 
 repairs of this church have been frequent and considerable. Upon certain occasions, 
 as Restoration Day (May 29), the Chaplain of the House of Commons preached here ; 
 when the House was usually represented by the Speaker, the Serjeant-at-Arms, the 
 clerks and other officers, and some eight or ten members. These and similar obser- 
 vances, as on Jan. 30, King Charles's Martyrdom, and Nov. 5, Gunpowder Plot, have 
 been discontinued since 1858. The church originally consisted of a Nave and Choir, 
 with side aisles ; with chapels or altars in the latter to St. Margaret, St. George, St. 
 Katherine, St. Erasmus, St. John, and St. Cornelius, besides two to St. Nicholas and 
 St. Christopher : the churchwardens' accounts bear evidence of the maintenance of 
 these shrines. In the ambulatory is a carved stall of the 16th century. 
 
 Among the names of the more eminent of the Puritans who preached in St. Margaret's, are those of 
 Calamy, Vines, Nye, Manton, Marshall, Gauden, Owen, Burgess, Newcomen, Keynolds, Cheynell, 
 Baxter, Case (who censured Cromwell to his face, and when discoursing before General Monk, cried 
 out, " There are some will betray three kingdoms for filthy lucre's sake," and threw his handkerchief 
 into the General's pew) ; the critical Lightfoot ; Taylor, " the illuminated Doctor ;" and Goodwyn, " the 
 windmill with a weathercock upon the top." Walcott's Westminster. 
 
 The monuments are very numerous : among them are a tablet to Caxton the 
 printer, by Westmacott, raised 1820 by the Roxburgh Club; alabaster figures, 
 coloured and gilt, to Marie Lady Dudley (d. 1600); brass tablet, put up by subscription, 
 1845, to Sir Walter Raleigh, whose body was interred within the Chancel of this church 
 on the day he was beheaded in the Old Palace-yard, Oct. 29, 1618 ; a black marble 
 slab to James Harrington (d. 1677), who wrote Oceana ; monument near the porch- 
 door to Mrs. E. Corbet, with what Johnson considered " the most valuable of all 
 Pope's epitaphs ;" monument to Captain Sir Peter Parker, Bart., R.N., with bas-relief 
 of his death, 1814, and lines by Lord Byron, in Chancel north aisle : a curious tablet 
 of Cornelius Van Dun (d. 1577), with a coloured bust in the uniform of the Yeomen 
 of the Guard : and a small monument to Mrs. Joane Barnett (d. 1674), who left 
 money for a yearly sermon and poor widows : she is said to have sold oatmeal cakes hard 
 by the church-door, in memory of which a large oatmeal pudding is a standing dish at 
 the " Feast." There is but one ancient brass in the church, the rest having been sold 
 in 1644, at 3d. and 4d. per pound, as the churchwardens' accounts attest. Weever 
 records the burial hereof John Skelton, Poet Laureate to Henry VIII. (d. 1529); and 
 the registers contain the burial of Thomas Churchyarde, " Court Poet " (d. 1604). Soon 
 after the Restoration, several bodies were disinterred from the Abbey, and deposited in 
 a pit in St. Margaret's churchyard : among them was the corpse of Oliver Cromwell's 
 mother, from Henry VII.'s Chapel ; Sir W. Constable, one of the judges in the trial of 
 Charles I. ; Admiral Blake ; John Pimme ; Thomas May, the poet, &c. Here, too, 
 are buried Sir William Waller, the Parliament General (d. 1668) ; Hollar, the engraver 
 (d. 1677), in the churchyard, " near NVW. corner of the tower " (Aubrey) ; 
 Thomas Blood, who attempted to steal the regalia (d. 1680) ; Gadbury the Cavalier 
 astrologer, and helpmate of Lilly (d. 1704); Frances Whate (d. 1736), a charwoman, 
 buried in the church ; John Read, the " Walking Rushlight," and the oldest general in 
 the service (d. 1807). The churchyard is extremely crowded with bodies. In the 
 report on Extramural Sepulture, 1850, Dr. Reid stated, " that the state of the bury- 
 ing-ground around St. Margaret's Church is prejudicial to the air supplied at the 
 Houses of Parliament, and also to the whole neighbourhood ;" that " these offensive 
 emanations have been noticed at all hours of the night and morning ;" and that even 
 " fresh meat is frequently tainted " by the deleterious gases issuing from this church- 
 yard. The removal of the church was proposed even in Stow's time, and has often 
 been revived : it was favoured by Sir Charles Barry, in his design for the completion of 
 the New Palace of Westminster : if allowed to remain, the church should be restored, 
 to harmonize with the Abbey, to which it was originally an adjunct. Among the be-
 
 CIIUHCHES AND CHAPELS. 179 
 
 quests is an endowment, founded in 1 781, by the will of Mr. Edward Dickenson, who 
 left 5000Z. stock, the interest of which was to be divided, on the first month after 
 Easter-day, between three newly-married couples from each parish of St. Margaret 
 and St. John the Evangelist, Westminster, and of Acton. The distribution takes place 
 with the approbation of the Bishop of London; and petitions are taken into considera- 
 tion by the trustees on the Wednesday in Easter week, when they decide on the nine 
 couples to receive the bounty, 151. each. 
 
 A celebrated heirloom of the parish is the " Overseers' Sox," originally purchased at Horn Fair for 
 fourpc-nce, and presented by a Mr. Monck to his brother Overseers, in 1713. In 1713, the Society of 
 Past Overseers commemorated the gift by adding to the Box a silver rim; and in 1726 were added a 
 silver side-case and bottom. In 1740, an embossed border was placed on the lid, and fie bottom 
 enriched with an emblem of Charity. In 1746, Hogarth engraved inside the lid a bust of the Duke of 
 Cumberland, in memory of the battle of Culloden. In 1765 was added to the lid a plate with the arms 
 of the City of Westminster, and the inscription : " This Box is to be delivered to every succeeding set 
 of Overseers, on penalty of five guineas." The original Horn Box thus ornamented has been placed in 
 four additional cases, each ornarxented by its several custodians, the senior Overseer for the time being, 
 with silver plates engraved with the following subjects: Fireworks in St. James's Park (Peace of 
 Aix-la-Chapelie), 1749 ; Admiral Keppel's Action off Ushant, and his Acquittal by Court Martial ; Battle 
 of the Nile, 1798; Repulse of Admiral Liuois, 1804; Battle of Trafalgar, 1805; Action between San 
 Fiorenzo and I /a Piedmontaise, 1808; Battle of Waterloo, 1815; Bombardment of Algiers, 1816 ; House 
 of Lords at Trial of Queen Caroline ; Coronation of George IV., and his visit to Scotland, 1822. 
 Portraits : Wilkes, Churchwarden in 1759; Nelson, Duncan, Howe, and Vincent; Fox and Pitt, 1806; 
 the Prince Regent, 1811; Princess Charlotte, 1817; and Queen Charlotte, 1818. Views : Interior of 
 Westminster Hall, with Westminster Volunteers attending Divine Service, on Fast-day, 1803 ; the old 
 Sessions House; St. Margaret's Church from north-east, the west front, tower, and altar-piece. In 
 IS 13 was added to the outer case a large silver plate portrait of the Duke of Wellington, commemorating 
 the centenary of the box. The top of the second case represents the Governors in their board-room, 
 inscribed, " The original Box and cases to be given to every succeeding set of Overseers, on penalty of 
 fifty guineas, 1783." Outside the first case is engraved a cripple. In 1793, a contumacious Overseer 
 detained the Box, and it was deposited "in Chancery" until 1796, when it was restored to the Overseers' 
 Society; this event being commemorated by the addition of a third case, of Justice trampling upon an 
 unmasked man and a serpent, and the Lord Chancellor (Loughborough) pronouncing his decree. On 
 the fourth, or outer case, is the Anniversary meeting of the Past Overseers' Society, and the delivery of 
 the Box to the succeeding Overseer, who must produce it at certain parochial entertainments, with three 
 pipes of tobacco at least, under the penalty of six bottles of claret; and must return the whole safe and 
 sound, with some addition, under penalty of two hundred guineas. Within the Box is a mother-of- 
 pearl tobacco-stopper, with a silver chain. Abridged from VValcott's Westminster, 
 
 ST. MARK'S, Kennington Common, a Doric church, designed by Roper, and built 
 in 1824, on the spot formerly the place of execution for Surrey, and where several per- 
 sons suffered death in the Stuart cause. Here was executed " Jemmy Dawson," 1746. 
 
 ST. MAEK'B, Old-street-road, St. Luke's, a beautiful Early English Church, designed 
 by Ferrey, and built in 1848 : it has a noble four-storied tower and spire, rising from 
 the ground 125 feet ; and the windows throughout the edifice are fine. 
 
 ST. MASK'S, Victoria Docks, near the little village of Silvsrtown, was built for the 
 accommodation of the " Londoners over the border." The style is English Decorated, 
 fifteenth century : materials, inside and outside, white and coloured bricks ; Teulon, 
 architect. It contains 1000 sittings, and cost 70CKM. : the Organ, a gift, is fine. 
 
 ST. MABTIN'S-IN-THE-FIELDS, north of the western extremity of the Strand, is the 
 second church built upon this site; the first having been erected by Henry VIII., 
 from his disliking the funerals of inhabitants passing Whitehall in their way to St, 
 Margaret's, at Westminster, as they had no parish church. It is probable that, 
 there was a building before this, but " only a chapel for the use of the monks of West- 
 minster when they visited their Convent (Covenf) Garden, which then extended to 
 it." (J. Gwilt.) The old church had a low square tower, and was strictly " in the 
 fields :" in 1607, Henry Prince of Wales added a chancel. In this ancient church was 
 buried Nicholas Stone, the sculptor, his monument adorned with his bust finely carved 
 in profile, with tools used in sculpture, compasses, &c. : he was engaged in the building 
 of the Btmqueting-house, Whitehall. No doubt the sculpture, scrolls, and other orna- 
 ments in stone were of his work. In this church also were interred Paul Vansomer, 
 portrait-painter, scarcely inferior to Vandyck ; Nicholas Laniere, painter, musician, 
 and engraver, and who bought pictures for Charles I. ; Nicholas Lyzard, who had been 
 in the service of Henry VIII. and Edward VI., and who was sergeant-painter to 
 Queen Elizabeth; Nicholas Hilliard, limner,jeweller, and goldsmith to Queen Elizabeth, 
 and afterwards to King James I. : he was, perhaps, the best miniature-painter who 
 
 sr 2
 
 180 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 had appenred : also Sir Theodore Mayerne, the physician, a friend of Vandyck, to whom 
 lie communicated valuable information relating to pigments ; also Dobson, the English 
 Vandyck; George Farqubar, the comic dramatist; Nell Gwynne was interred in 
 the church ; and Jack Sheppard in the burial-ground. In the church was buried, 
 Oct. 31, 1679, Sir Edmund Berry Godfrey, found murdered in a ditch near Chalk 
 Farm : the corpse was brought from Bridewell Hospital with great pomp, eight knights 
 supporting the pall, and attended by all the City aldermen, 72 London ministers, 
 and above 100 persons of distinction. At the funeral sermon two divines stood by the 
 preacher, lest he should be assassinated by the Papists. The Hon. Robert Boyle was 
 buried here, and his funeral sermon was preached by his friend Dr. Burnet. The Organ 
 was built by Schmydt, in 1676, and he himself was the first organist here, and played 
 for a salary. Edward, a son of the celebrated Henry Purcell, was elected organist in 
 1 726. The old church was taken down in 1720-21, and the present church commenced 
 from a design by Gibbs, when King George I., by proxy, laid the first stone, March 19, 
 1721, gave the workmen 100 guineas, and subsequently, upon being chosen church- 
 warden, presented the Organ, built by Schreider ; but this has long given place to 
 another Organ, built by Gray. 
 
 The present church was consecrated in 1726 : the cost of its erection was 36,891 1. 10s. 4d. 
 Its length, including the portico, is equal to twice its width : it is in the florid Roman 
 or Italian style, and has a very fine western Corinthian hexastyle portico : the east end 
 is truly elegant, and the round columns at each angle of the building render it very 
 effective in profile. The tower and spire rise out of the roof, behind the portico. The 
 interior is richly ornamented, " a little too gay and theatrical for Protestant worship." 
 In 1842, 45 feet of the spire were struck by lightning, and had to be restored at the 
 expense of 1000/. : the ball and vane were also regilt ; the latter is 6 feet 8 inches 
 high and 5 feet long, and is surmounted with a crown, to denote this the parish of the 
 Sovereign ; and in its registers are entered the births of the royal children born at 
 Buckingham Palace. The tower has a fine peal of twelve bells ; but the story of Nell 
 Gwynne having left a legacy, paid weekly to the ringers, has no foundation in fact. 
 High in the steeple hangs a small shrill bell, formerly called the Sanctus, and now 
 the Saint's or Parson's Bell. " It was rung before the Reformation, when the priest 
 came to the Sanctus, ' Holy, holy, holy, Lord God of Sabaoth !' so that those without 
 the church might participate in the devotions of those present at the most solemn 
 part of the divine office." The Pariah Choir, No. 59. 
 
 The churchyard was paved in 1829 ; and in 1831, the vaults beneath the church 
 were reconstructed, each vault being 10 feet high, 20 wide, and 40 long. Here is pre- 
 served the old parish whipping-post, with a carved head. 
 
 In the present church rest Roubiliac, the sculptor ; and Scott, the author of a Visit 
 to Paris, who was killed in a duel in 1821. The remains of John Hunter were 
 deposited in the vaults in 1793, whence they were removed with fitting ceremony in 
 1859 to Westminster Abbey. 
 
 ST. MARTIN'S, Gospel Oak Fields, between Kentish Town and Haverstock-hill, is a 
 carefully finished specimen of that now rare style, the Third Pointed, or Perpendicular. 
 The tower at the north-west, almost detached from the body of the church, is square, 
 lofty, has rather large windows, and an angle turret crowned by a small spirelet, 
 shorter pinnacles capping the other angles ; of which form we remember no other 
 example about London. There are also two capped turrets at the junction of the Nave 
 and Chancel. The windows have florid tracery ; the roof is an elaborate one, on the 
 hammer-beam principle, and is of dark varnished timber, rich in effect. With the 
 parsonage, this church is estimated to cost 13,000^., defrayed by Mr. J. B. Alcroft ; 
 architect, E. B. Lamb. It will accommodate 1000 worshippers, who will all have an 
 almost uninterrupted view of the Chancel, reading-desk, and pulpit ; 400 sittings are 
 free. The tower contains six bells, of deep tone. 
 
 ST. MAETIN'S, Ironmonger-lane, was a small church, and also called St. Martin 
 Pomary, " on what account (saith the antiquary) he knoweth not ; but it is supposed 
 from apples growing there." 
 
 ST. MAETIN'S LUDGATE, near the site of the City gate of that name, in Ludgate- 
 ptreet, was rebuilt by Wren after the Great Fire : the steeple has a small gallery, and
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 181 
 
 rises 168 feet. Between Ludgate-street and the body of the church is an ambulatory, 
 the whole depth of the tower, so as to lessen within the church the noise from the 
 street. In the vestry -room are a carved seat (date 1690), and several curious coffers 
 or chests. The font has a Greek inscription, a palindrome, i.e., it reads the same back- 
 wards as forwards. In the old church was the following epitaph, dated 1590 : 
 
 Earth goes to \ (As mold to mold 
 
 Earth treads on | Eartn j Glittering in gold 
 Earth as to j Return here should 
 
 Earth shall to ) ( Goe ere he would 
 
 Earth upon ] ( Consider may 
 
 Earth goes to f pn-fj, J Passed away 
 
 Earth though on f j Is stout and gay 
 
 Earth shall from ) \ Passe poor away. 
 
 The spire of St. Martin's, backed by the campanile towers and majestic dome of St. 
 Paul's, seen from Fleet-street, is a fine architectural group; although the injudicious 
 have condemned the spire as an obstacle in the view. Extraordinary antiquity has 
 been claimed for the ancient church of St. Martin : according to Newcourt, it is alleged 
 that Cadwallo, the valiant King of the Britons, after he had reigned for forty years, 
 died in 677, and was buried in this place ; and Robert of Glo'ster tells us of the said 
 monarch 
 
 " A Church of St. llartyn, livyng he let rere, 
 
 In whych yat men shold Goddys seruyse do, 
 
 And sing for his soule and al Christene also." 
 
 The former church was dated 1437. Samuel Purchas, known by his Pilgrimages, was 
 rector here in 1613 : he is styled " the English Ptolemy," but gained more fame than 
 profit by his publications. 
 
 ST. MAETIX OEGAE, now united to the adjacent parish of St. Clement, near East- 
 cheap, formerly possessed a church on this spot, which, after having served as a place of 
 worship for French Protestants for about twenty years, was pulled down in the 
 year 1820. The old clock-tower remained standing till 1851, together with two 
 adjoining houses belonging to the parish, formerly known as " the rectory." These 
 have been taken down, and a new clock and bell-tower erected, the lower part forming 
 part of the rectory -house ; the upper part only being appropriated for the reception 
 of the clock, whilst the cupoletta, which crowns the composition, receives an ancient 
 bell, which is highly valued by the parish. The height is about 110 feet to the top of 
 the pine, which forms the finial. The tower is five diameters high to the top of the 
 cornice, the proportion adopted in most of Wren's towers. The bracket-clock is 
 picturesque. 
 
 ST. MAETIN'S OUTWICH (Otteswich), Bishopsgate-street, was originally built in the 
 fourteenth century, in the Pointed style, with a low tiled roof and square tower ; and 
 the churchwardens' accounts (1508 to 1545) contain entries of ancient usages previous 
 to the Reformation : as, " Wyne on Relyks Sondaye, Id. ;" " Paschall or Hallowed 
 Taper, tenebur Candell and Cross Candell, License to eate flesh," &c. This church 
 escaped the Great Fire of 1666, but was greatly injured in a conflagration in Nov. 1765, 
 which burnt fifty houses. In 1796, the present church was built by S. P. Cockerell. 
 Its form is oval, with a recess for the chancel, in the ceiling of which is a light filled 
 with stained glass, mostly from the old church. There are also several monuments 
 from the same, including two recumbent stone figures of John Oterwich and his wife, 
 their head-cushions supported by angels ; the feet of the man resting against a lion, 
 and those of the female against a dog. Here also is a canopied tomb, date 1500, with 
 remains of brass figures, armorial bearings, and labels against the back ; and several 
 stone effigies to the memory of Alderman Staper (1594) : " hee was the greatest 
 merchant in his tyme, the chiefest actor in discovere of the trades of Turkey and East 
 India, &c. ;" also two brass figures of rectors of the church in the fifteenth century. 
 Few would expect to find these monumental treasures within a church of such un- 
 ecclesiastical design. It contains also a fine picture of the Resurrection, by Rigaud. 
 The South Sea House, which is in St. Martin's, was given to the parish by Mrs. Mar- 
 garet Taylor, in 1667. 
 
 ST. MAET ABBOTS', Kensington, the mother-church, was rebuilt 1696 : here ara 
 monuments to Edward, eighth Earl of Warwick and Holland (d. 1759), with bis
 
 182 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 effigies, seated, and reposing upon an urn ; and to the three Colmans : Francis Colman ; 
 his son, George, "the Elder;" and his son, "the Younger:" the two latter wrote 
 several comedies, and were proprietors of the Haymarket Theatre. In the churchyard 
 are monuments to Jortin, author of the Life of Erasmus, and Vicar of Kensington ; 
 and to Mrs. Inchbald (a Roman Catholic), a beauty, a virtue, a player, and authoress 
 of the Simple Story. Here, too, is buried William, Courten, the traveller and 
 naturalist, whose curiosities, it is said, filled ten rooms in the Middle Temple : this 
 collection he bequeathed to Sir Hans Sloane, and thus it became part of the nucleus of 
 the British Museum. James Mill, the historian of British India, is buried here; and a 
 son of George Canning, with a headstone by Chantrey. St. Mary's, Kensington, had a 
 " Vicar of Bray " in one Thomas Hodges, collated to the living by Archbishop Juxon : 
 he kept his preferment during the Civil War and interregnum, by joining alternately 
 with either party ; although a frequent preacher before the Long Parliament and one 
 of the Assembly of Divines, he was made Dean of Hereford after the Restoration, but 
 continued Vicar of Kensington. (Murray's Environs of London, p. 69.) The Organ 
 is a fine old instrument ; and there is a good peal of bells. The ancient church of 
 Kensington (Chenesit) is mentioned in Domesday, and had for its patron Aubrey de 
 Vere, who came over with the Conqueror, from whom he received the manor. 
 
 ST. MABY ABCHUECH, Abchurch-lane, was destroyed by the Great Fire, and rebuilt 
 by Wren in 1686 : its tower and spire are 140 feet high : the interior has a large 
 cupola, painted by Sir James Thornhill ; and an altar-piece, with fruit and flowers, 
 exquisitely carved by Gibbons, and originally painted after nature by Thornhill. The 
 Organ is by Bishop. 
 
 ST. MAEY ALDEBMAEY, Bow-lane, is the third church erected on this site. To the 
 first, Richard Chaucer, vintner, gave his tenement and tavern, with the appurtenances 
 in the royal street, the corner of Kerrion-lane, and was there buried, 1348. It is 
 believed that this was the father of Chaucer the poet. Charles Blunt, Lord Mountjoy, 
 was buried there about the year 1545. In 1510, Sir Henry Keble, Lord Mayor of 
 London, began to rebuild the church. This church was destroyed in the Great Fire, 
 with the exception of the tower, so built by Lord Mayor Keble, the lower part of which 
 was repaired by Sir Christopher Wren, and the upper part new built in 1681, a sum 
 equal to 5000Z. being furnished for that purpose by the widow of Henry Rogers, in 
 pursuance of his will. The clustered columns, fine groinings, large circular ornamental 
 openings for skylights, the ceilings decorated with flowers, foliage, and shields, and the 
 fine east window, are admired. In 1835 some houses abutting upon the north wall of 
 the church were pulled down, which brought to light a crypt, possibly the vaulted ceme- 
 tery of the old church, about 50 feet in length and 10 feet wide, having five arches on 
 each side in the Pointed style of architecture. The church is a specimen of Wren's 
 Gothic, for which his apologists plead that he was required to follow the plan of the 
 old church destroyed by fire. The tower, with four turrets, is 130 feet high. In the 
 great storm of 1703, two of these turrets were blown down. 
 
 ST. MAEY'S, Battersea, a church of tasteless design, built in 1776, is remarkable 
 for containing Roubiliac's elegant monument to the celebrated Lord Bolingbroke, and 
 his second wife, a niece of Madame de Maintenon. In the east window are three 
 portraits : 1. Margaret Beauchamp, ancestor (by her first husband, Sir Oliver St. John) 
 of the St. Johns, and (by her second husband, John Beaufort, Duke of Somerset) 
 grandmother to Henry VII. ; 2. the portrait of that monarch ; 3. the portrait of 
 Queen Elizabeth, placed here because her grandfather, Thomas Boleyn, Earl of Wilt- 
 shire (father of Queen Anne Boleyn), was the grandfather of Anne, the daughter of 
 Sir Thomas Leighton, and wife of Sir John St. John, the first baronet of the family. 
 Here is a monument to Sir Edward Wynter, who died 1635-6; it has a bas-relief 
 representing the feats thus commemorated in the inscription : 
 
 " Alone, nnarm'd, a tyger he oppress'd, 
 And crush'd to death the monster of a beast ; 
 Twice twenty mounted Moors he overthrew 
 Singly on foot; some wounded, some he slew, 
 Dispers'd the rest. What more could Samson do ?" 
 
 At the top is a large bust of Sir Edward, in a flowing peruke and lace shirt.
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 183 
 
 ST. MAKY-LE-BONE, or St. Mary-at-the-Bourne, at the end of the High-street, verging 
 on the New-road, was originally the mother-church of Marylebone, and was rebuilt in 
 1741, on the site of an edifice erected about 1400, on the removal of the ancient 
 church of Tyburn, " which stood in a lonely place near the highway (on or near the 
 site of the present Court-house, at the corner of Stratford-place), subject to the depre- 
 dations of robbers, who frequently stole the images, bells, and ornaments." (Lysons's 
 Environs, vol. iii. 1795.) InVertue's Plan, about 1560, the only building seen between 
 the village of St. Giles's and Primrose-hill is the little solitary church of Marylebone : 
 its interior is shown in one of Hogarth's plates of the Rake's Progress (the Marriage), 
 where some ill-spelt verses on the vault of the Forset family, and the churchwardens' 
 names, are accurately copied ; this plate was published in 1735, and part of the original 
 inscription was preserved in the present church, converted into a parish chapel in 1817, 
 on the consecration of the church in the New-road. In the chapel are tablets to Gibbs, 
 the architect ; Baretti, the friend of Dr. Johnson ; and Caroline Watson, the engraver ; 
 and in the churchyard is a monument to James Ferguson, the Astronomer. Among 
 the burials in the register are James Figg, the prize-fighter ; Vanderbank, the por- 
 trait-painter ; Hoyle, aged 90, who wrote the Treatise on Whist ; Rysbrack, the 
 sculptor ; and Allan Ramsay, portrait-painter, and son of the author of the Gentle 
 ShepJierd. In Paddington-street are two burial-grounds formerly attached to this 
 church. In 1511, the Marylebone curate's stipend was only 13s. per annum ; in 1650, 
 the impropriation was valued at 801. per annum, and Richard Bonner was curate ; 
 before the late separation, the value of the living was 1898Z. 
 
 In a Map published in 1742, the diminutive church of St. Mary-le-bone is shown detached from 
 London, with two zigzag ways leading to it, one near Vere-street, then the western extremity of the 
 new buildings, and the second from Tottenham-Court-road. Rows of houses, with their backs to the 
 fields, extended from St. Giles's Pound to Oxford-market ; but Tottenham-Court-road had only one 
 cluster on the west side, and the spring-water house. The zigzag way above mentioned, near Vere- 
 street, still retaining its original name of Mary-le-bone-lane, was the communication between the high 
 road and the village. A friend, born in 1780, remembers his father and mother relating how they 
 walked out through the fields, to be married at Mary bone Church. 
 
 ST. MABYLEBONE (New Church), New-road, opposite York Gate, Regent's-park, 
 designed by T. Hardwick, father of P. Hardwick, R.A., was originally built " on 
 speculation " as a chapel ; and was purchased by the parish, and converted into a 
 handsome church, at the cost of 60,000/. It has a lofty stone clock-tower and portico ; 
 the interior was at first objected to as too theatrical in arrangement : it has an altar- 
 picture of the Holy Family, painted and presented by B. West, P.R.A. Cosway and 
 Northcote, Royal Academicians, are buried here. 
 
 ST. MABY-LE-BCTW, Cheapside, " for divers accidents happening there, hath been 
 made more famous than any other parish church of the whole city or suburbs." 
 (Stoiv.) If not originally a Roman temple, as was once believed, this was one of the 
 earliest churches built by our Norman conquerors. Stow says it was named St. Mary 
 de Arcubus, from its being built on arches of stone, the semicircular-arched Norman 
 crypt, extant to this day : and hence is named the " Court of Arches," formerly held 
 in the church. About 1190, Longbeard, ringleader of a tumult, took refuge in the 
 steeple, which was fired to drive him out : in 1271, part of the steeple fell, and killed 
 several persons ; and some years after its repair, one Ducket, a goldsmith, fled here for 
 Sanctuary, and was murdered. The old steeple was entirely rebuilt by 1460, when 
 the Common Council ordered that Bow bell should be rung nightly at nine o'clock, a 
 vestige of the Norman curfew ; in 1472, two tenements in Hosier-lane (now Bow -lane), 
 were bequeathed " to the maintenance of Bow bell," which being rung for the 
 closing of shops somewhat late, the young men, 'prentices, and others in Cheap, made 
 this rhyme : 
 
 " Clarke of the Bow bell, with the yellow lockes, 
 For thy late ringing, thy head shall have knockes." 
 
 To which the Clerk replied : 
 
 " Children of Cheape, hold you all still, 
 For you shall have the Bow bell rung at your will." 
 
 William Copeland, churchwarden, either gave a new bell for this purpose, or caused 
 the old one to be recast, in 1515 : Weever says the former. In 1512, the arches and
 
 184 CUEIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 spire of the tower were provided with lanterns, as beacons for travellers : the latter is 
 shown in the View of London, 1643 (in the Sutherland Collection) ; it has a central 
 lantern, or bell-turret, and a pinnacle at each corner. The church was rebuilt, as we 
 now see it, by Wren, after the Great Fire of 1666, and the belfry was prepared for 
 twelve bells, though only eight were placed ; but two were subsequently added, and 
 the set of ten bells was first rung in 1762. (See BELLS, p. 46.) The earliest monu- 
 ment in the old church was that to Sir John Coventry, Mayor in 1425 : Weever gives 
 his epitaph. The present church contains a large marble sarcophagus, with figures of 
 Faith and a cherub, and a medallion bust, by Banks, R.A., of Bishop Newton, twenty- 
 five years rector of this parish, and interred in St. Paul's. 
 
 Bow Church is one of Wren's finest works : it is well described in Godwin's 
 Churches of London. The large Palladian doorways are noble ; and the campanile is 
 one of Wren's most picturesque designs. 
 
 The circular peristyle, or continued range of columns, which rises from a stylobate on the top of the 
 tower (a miniature representation of that around the dome of St. Paul's), let it be viewed from what 
 point it may be, is the most beautiful feature of the steeple. By the introduction of the combined scrolls 
 at each angle of the tower, Wren has endeavoured to prevent that appearance of abruptness which 
 would otherwise have resulted from the sudden transition from the square to the circular form, and has 
 caused the outline to be gradually pyramidical from the top of the tower to the vane. The flying 
 buttresses, which appear to support the columns above the peristyle, are introduced chiefly with a view 
 to effect the same end. 
 
 The spire was repaired by Sir W. Staines when a young stonemason ; and in 1820 it 
 was in part rebuilt by George Gwilt, F.S.A., but was not lowered, as generally believed. 
 Its height is 225 feet ; the dragon, ten feet long, was regilt, and a young Irishman 
 descended from the spire point on its back, pushing it from the cornices and scaffolds 
 with his feet, in the presence of thousands of spectators.* Over the doorway in 
 Cheapside is a small balcony, intended as a place to view processions from. The present 
 bells are much heavier, and more powerful in tone, than the first set. It requires two 
 men to ring the largest (the tenor, 53 cwt., key C.) The ringers belong to the Society 
 of " College Youths," founded in 163.7, and named from the College of St. Spirit and 
 Mary, built by Sir Richard Whittington, on College-hill, Upper Thames-street, and 
 burnt down in the Great Fire. A book recording the names of the founders and 
 members of the College Youths, from 1637 to 1724, was lost about the latter date, 
 and only recovered in 1840. Another Society, called the " Cumberland Society," rang 
 for a few years at Bow Church. There is a peal called the " Whittington Peal," which 
 can only be rung on twelve bells. (See Bow BELLS, p. 47.) 
 
 Independently of ordinary services in the church, prayers are read and the Sacrament administered 
 at eight o'clock in the morning on every festival throughout the year which does not fall on a Sunday. 
 This is in compliance with the will of Mr. Robert Nelson, author of the Companion to the Festivals and 
 Fasts of the Church of England, who left for the purpose 31. per annum. Formerly, the Boyle lectures 
 were delivered here, but they have been discontinued for some years past. The Bishops elect of the 
 province of Canterbury attend at this church, previous to their consecration, to take the oaths of 
 supremacy, &c. 
 
 ST. MART'S, Islington, " the old church," is built upon the site of a church with an 
 embattled tower and bell-turret, and which was presumed to be 300 years old when 
 taken down in 1751. One of its oldest monuments was that to " Thomas Gore, 
 parsonne of Isledon and Westhame," who died in 1499 : here were also memorials of 
 the Fowlers, and Dame Katherme Brook, nurse who " nourished with her milk " the 
 Princess Mary, daughter of Henry VIII. Dame Alice Owen, foundress of the alms- 
 houses and school at the top of Goswell-road, was buried here ; and here are two 
 monumental brasses of the Savills. Dr. Cave, the learned ecclesiastical historian, and 
 chaplain to Charles II., who became vicar of Islington at the age of 25, was buried in 
 the old church. The present church was erected by Launcelot Dowbiggin, opened 
 May 26, 1754. It has a tower and stone spire, 164 feet high, and a fine peal of eight 
 bells, each inscribed with a couplet inculcating loyalty, love, and harmony. In 1787, 
 when a lightning conductor was affixed to the spire, one Thomas Bird constructed 
 round it a wickerwork scaffold, with steps within. Among the persons buried here 
 are Dr. Hawes, one of the originators of the Humane Society ; Earlom, the rnezzo- 
 
 * One of Mother Shipton's prophecies was, that when the Dragon of Bow Church and the Grass- 
 hopper of the Royal Exchange should meet, London streets would be deluged with blood ! In 1820 both 
 these vanes were lying together in a stonemason's yard in Old-street Road, where the upper portion of 
 Wren's spire is preserved to this day.
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 185 
 
 tinto engraver ; and John Nichols, F.S.A., the editor of the Gentleman's Magazine, 
 his grave being a few yards from the house in which he was born. During the last 
 forty years more than sixteen churches have been erected in the district of Islington, 
 and Dissenting chapels have multiplied in a similar proportion. 
 
 ST. MABY, Lambeth, the mother-church of the manor and parish, stands within 
 the patriarchal shade of Lambeth Palace, and has a Perpendicular tower, lately 
 restored. In the Bishop's Register at Winchester, date 1377, is a commission to 
 compel the inhabitants to erect this tower for their church, then newly built. In the 
 churchwardens' accounts, " pewes " are mentioned as early as the reign of Philip and 
 Mary. The eastern end of the north aisle, built 1522, by the Duke of Norfolk, is 
 called the Howard Chapel. In the church are the tombs of these Archbishops of 
 Canterbury : Parker, d. 1575 ; Bancroft, d. 1610 ; Tenison, d. 1715 ; Button, d. 1758; 
 Seeker (in passage between church and palace), d. 1768 ; Cornwallis, d. 1783 ; Moore, 
 d. 1805. 
 
 In burying Archbishop Cornwallis, were found tVe remains of Thirlby, the first and only Bishop of 
 "Westminster: he died a prisoner in Lambeth Palace (temp. Elizabeth). The body was discovered 
 wrapped in fine linen, the face perfect, the beard long and white, the linen and woollen garments well 
 preserved; the cap, silk and point lace, as in portraits of Archbishop Juxon; slouched hat, under left 
 arm ; cassock, like apron with strings; and pieces of garments like a pilgrim's habit. 
 
 Here also are the tombs of Alderman Goodbehere j Madame Storace, the singer ; 
 Peter Dollond, inventor of the achromatic telescope ; and Elias Ashmole, the antiquary. 
 In the churchyard is the altar-tomb of the Tradescants, father and son : 
 
 " These famous antiquarians that had been 
 Both gardeners to the Rose and Lily queen." Epitaph. 
 
 The tomb is sculptured with palm-trees, hydra and skull, obelisk and pyramid, and 
 Grecian ruins, crocodile, and shells. In the Register are entered the burials of Simon. 
 Forrnan, the astrologer ; and Edward Moore, who wrote the tragedy of The Gamester. 
 In a window of the middle aisle is painted a pedlar with his pack and dog, said to 
 represent the person who bequeathed to the parish of Lambeth " Pedlar's Acre," pro- 
 vided his portrait and that of his dog were perpetually preserved in one of the church 
 windows. When the painting was first put up is unknown, but it existed in 1608 ; 
 " a new glass pedlar " was put up in 1703, but removed in 1816. 
 
 The name of the benefactor is unknown ; but it has been suggested that this portrait was intended 
 rather as a rebus upon the name " Chapman" than upon his trade : for in Swaffham Church, Norfolk, 
 is the portrait of John Chapman, a great benefactor to that parish ; and the device of a pedlar and his 
 pack occurs in several parts of the church, which has given rise to nearly the same tradition at Swaffham 
 as at Lambeth. (Preface to Hearne'i Caii Antiquitatet, p. 84.) Besides, Pedlar's Acre was not originally 
 so called, but the Church Hopes, or Hopys (an isthmus of land projecting into the river), and is entered 
 in the Register as bequeathed by " a person unknown." Popular Errori Explained, Ifc. p. 293. 
 
 The church, except the tower, has been rebuilt by Hardwick in correct design ; the 
 font is fine, and many of the windows are filled with memorial stained glass- The 
 bells and Communion-plate are of very considerable age, the latter of great value. 
 
 ST. MAHY-AT-HILL, Eastcheap, " called on the hill because of the ascent from 
 Billingsgate," rebuilt by Wren, after the Great Fire, had this singular custom : 
 
 "On the next Sunday after Midsummer, every year, the Fellowship of the Porters of London, time 
 out of mind, came to this church in the morning, and whilst the Psalms were reading, they went up 
 two by two towards the rails of the Communion table, where were set two basins, and there they make 
 their offerings. Afterwards the inhabitants of the parish, and their wives, make their offerings ; and 
 the money thus offered is given to the poor, decrepit porters of the Company for their better support." 
 
 The church was built by Wren, between 1672 and 1677, the west-end tower being 
 of subsequent date : the exterior of the east end alone remains. In 1848-9, the interior 
 was entirely refitted, with such an extent of carving as had not been executed before 
 in the City for many years. The pillars supporting the organ gallery are ornamented 
 with fruit and flowers. The great screen has a frame of oak ; the Rector's pew and 
 reading-desk are enriched with carved open tracery, and brackets surmounted with 
 the royal supporters, bearing shields with V.R. 1849. The pulpit is entirely new, 
 and is very elaborately carved : in the sounding-board are bosses of flowers of 12-inch 
 projection ; from the eyes of the volutes garlands of flowers are suspended, which pass 
 through the split trusses, and fall down, crossing and uniting behind ; and within the 
 pulpit, at the back, is a well-executed drop of fruit and flowers : on the front of the
 
 186 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 organ-gallery are bold clusters of musical trophies and garland of flowers, with birds 
 and fruit ; and the royal arms, with a mantle scroll, about ten feet long, form a per- 
 forated screen on the top of the gallery. All the carved work is by W. Gibbs Rogers. 
 The organ was built by Hill, on the German plan, and contains two manuals and a 
 pedal organ. Brand, who compiled the Popular Antiquities, and was Secretary to the 
 Society of Antiquaries, was Rector of St. Mary-at-Hill from 1789 till his death in 
 1806 : he is buried in the Chancel. Dr. Young, author of Night Thoughts, was 
 married here. 
 
 ST. MAEY MAGDALENE, Bermondsey, was originally founded by the monks of Ber- 
 mondsey, it is supposed, early in the reign of Edward III. ; but taken down in 1680, when 
 the present church was built upon the same site : in 1830, the west front was remodelled, 
 the tower repaired, and the large pointed window restored. Among the communion 
 plate is an ancient silver salver, supposed to have belonged to the Abbey of Bermond- 
 sey : in the centre, a knight in plate armour is kneeling to a female, aboiit to place a 
 helmet on his head, at the gate of a castle or fortified town : from the fashion of the 
 armour and the form of the helmet, this relic is referred to the age of Edward II. 
 In the church is a monument to Dr. Joseph Watson, more than thirty-seven years 
 teacher to the first public institution in this country for the education of the deaf and 
 dumb, established in this parish, 1792. In the churchyard is buried Mrs. S. Utton, 
 who was tapped twenty-five times for dropsy, and had 157 gallons of water taken from 
 her; also Mrs. S. Wood, tapped ninety-seven times, water 461 gallons; and the 
 husband of the latter, who died 1837, aged 108 years ! 
 
 The registers commenced in 1538, have been continued with great exactness, and 
 with very few interruptions up to the present time : some of the entries are very 
 eccentric. 
 
 ST. MARY MAGDALEN, Old Fish-street, in Castle-Baynard Ward, was rebuilt by 
 Wren, after the Great Fire, and contains a small brass tablet, date 1586, with the 
 figure of a man, and the following lines in black letter : 
 
 " In God the Lord put all your trustc, 
 
 Repente your formar wicked waies, 
 Elizabethe our Queen moste juste 
 
 Bless her, Lord, in all her dales ; 
 So Lord encrease good councelers, 
 
 And preachers of his holie worde 
 Mislike all papistes desiers 
 
 O Lord, cut them off with thy sworde. 
 How small soever the gift shall be 
 
 Thank God for him who gave it thee. 
 Ill penie loaves to III poor foulkes 
 
 Geve every Sabbath day for aye." 
 
 This church serves as well for the parish of St. Gregory-by-St. Paul's. St. Mary 
 Magdalen, Milk-street, was on the site of the City of London Schools. 
 
 ST. MABY MAGDALEN, Munster-square, Regent's Park, was designed by R. C. 
 Carpenter, and consists of a Nave with south aisle, large and lofty Chancel, and tower ; 
 style, Geometric, of the fourteenth century. The Nave and Aisle have massive open 
 gabled roofs, of Baltic fir timber. The Chancel roof is arched with timber, boarded 
 and panelled. The east window of the Chancel, which is of seven lights, is filled with 
 stained glass, at a cost of 400Z. by Hardman of Birmingham, and was one of the last 
 works upon which Pugin was engaged. The lower part of the Chancel is adorned by 
 richly carved arcades, with shafts of St. Ann's marble, and panels in the spandrels. 
 The arcades and the Chancel roof are highly enriched with colour and gilding, executed 
 by Grace. The arcade on the south side of the Chancel is varied, to form sedilia for 
 the officiating clergymen, and the floor is raised three steps above that of the Nave, and 
 is separated from it by a stone septum. The west window of the Nave, a fine one, of 
 five lights, has been filled with stained glass, in memory of the architect. In the 
 service, the Eucharistic vestments are used daily, and incense at high celebration on 
 Sundays. 
 
 ST. MAEY'S MATFELON, Whitechapel, at the- eastern end of High-street, was origi- 
 nally a chapel-of-ease to Stebenhith, or Stepney ; its second name being from Matfel,
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 187 
 
 in Hebrew, a woman recently delivered of a son. Stow traces the name to the wives 
 of the parish having slain out of hand a certain Frenchman who had murdered and 
 plundered a devout widow, by whom he had been cherished and brought up of alms 
 This occurred in 1428, the sixth of King Henry VI. ; but Stow also finds the name as 
 early as the twenty-first of Richard II. The old church was taken down in 1673, 
 and rebuilt nearly as at present : it has a gas-lit clock-dial. 
 
 The Parish Register records that Richard Brandon was buried in the churchyard, June 24, 1649 ; 
 and a marginal note (not in the hand of the Registrar, but bearing the mark of antiquity), states : 
 "This R. Brandon is supposed to have cut off the head of Charles I." He was assisted by his man 
 Ralph Jones, a ragman in Rosemary-lane ; and a tract in the British Museum, entitled, " The Confes- 
 sion of Richard Brandon, the Hangman, upon his Deathbed, concerning the Beheading of His late 
 Majesty," printed hi 1649, relates that the night after the execution he returned home to his wife, living 
 in Kosemary-lane, and gave her the money he had received, 30Z. ; that about three days before he die " 
 he lay speechless. " For the burial whereof, great store of wines were sent by the sheriff of the City i 
 
 were fain to come for the suppression of them ; and with great difficulty he was at last carried to 
 "VVhiteehapel churchyard." See Ellis's Letters on English History, vol. iii. second series ; and the Trial 
 of Charles I. vol. xxxi. Family Library. 
 
 ST. MART'S, Newington-butts, was built in 1791-3 by Hurlbatt, in place of a 
 smaller church. It contains a monument with statues to Sir Hugh Brawne, buried 
 in the old church, 1614, and who " for the space of twenty-two years was the whole 
 ornament of the parish." Here, too, is a tablet to Dr. Fothergill ; and to Captain M. 
 Waghorn, one of the few persons who escaped from the sinking of the Royal George, 
 in 1782. The parsonage-house was originally built of wood, and surrounded by a 
 moat, now filled up. In this parish was a small water-course called the river Tigris, 
 part of Cnut's trench ; and a parishioner who died at the age of 109 years, early in the 
 present century, remembered when boats came up as far as the church at Newington. 
 
 In the church is buried Mr. Sergeant Davy (d. 1860). He was originally a chemist at Exeter : and 
 a sheriff's officer coming to serve on him a process from the Court of Common Pleas, he civilly asked 
 him to drink ; while the man was drinking, Davy contrived to heat a poker, and then told the bailiff 
 that if he did not eat the writ, which was of sheepskin and as good as mutton, he should swallow the 
 poker ! The man preferred the parchment ; but the Court of Common Pleas, not then accustomed to 
 Mr. Davy's jokes, sent for him to Westminster Hall, and for contempt of their process, committed him 
 to the Fleet Prison. From this circumstance, and some unfortunate man whom he met there, he ac- 
 quired a taste for the law ; and on his discharge he applied himself to the study of it in earnest, was 
 called to the bar, made a sergeant, and was for a long time in good practice. See Manning and Bray's 
 History of Surrey. 
 
 ST. MART'S, Paddington, on the Green, was rebuilt in 1788-91 ; and its churchyards 
 are remarkable as the burial-place of several eminent artists; among whom are, 
 Bushnell, the sculptor of the statues on Temple Bar; Barrett, the landscape-painter; 
 Banks and Nollekens, the sculptors ; Vivares, Hall, and Schiavonetti, the engravers : 
 Caleb Whitefoord (see Goldsmith's Retaliation) ; Mrs. Siddons, the great actress ; 
 Collins, the painter ; and Haydon, historical painter. Hogarth was married in this 
 church to the daughter of Sir James Thornhill, March 23, 1729. 
 
 ST. MART'S, Botherhithe, close to the shaft of the Thames Tunnel, was rebuilt in 
 1736-39, upon the site of the old church, which had stood above 400 years. This new 
 church has a lofty spire : in the vestry-room is a portrait of King Charles I., in his 
 robes, kneeling at an altar, and holding a crown of thorns, the composition resem- 
 bling the frontispiece to the Eilcon Easililce. In the churchyard is buried Prince Lee 
 Boo, a native of the Pellew Islands, d. Dec. 29, 1784, a;t. 20 ; over his remains a 
 monument has been erected by the East India Company, in testimony of his father's 
 humane and kind treatment of the crew of the Antelope, wrecked off Goo-roo-raa, one 
 of the Pellew Islands, on the night of August 9, 1783. 
 
 ST. MART'S SOMERSET (Summer's hith, or wharf), was destroyed in the Great 
 Fire of 1666, and rebuilt by Wren in 1685 : it has a tower, with pedestals and urns 
 and obelisks upon the summit, 120 feet high; and the keystones <f the arches are 
 sculptured with grotesque heads. fl)ct*^^C^U^v '**\ I 9 [i 
 
 ST. MART'S, Stoke Newington (2^ miles north from London), in the patronage of 
 the Prebendary of Newington, in St. Paul's Cathedral, was repaired, or " rather new
 
 188 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 builded " (Slow), in 1563, of hewn stones, flint, and pebbles, but has been much 
 modernized. It has a square embattled tower, about 60 feet high, with six bells, 
 with an additional bell in a wooden cupola, and" a clock made 1723. The chapel, and 
 a portion of the body of the church, under two other roofs, formed the whole of the 
 iiiicient structure. The painted altar- window represents the Virgin Mary and the 
 Purification, the Birth and Preaching of St. John the Baptist, and the arms of Queen 
 Elizabeth ; and in the Chancel windows are the arms of the Drapers' Company and 
 the City of London. Among the communion-plate is a large silver offertory alms-dish. 
 In the Chancel is an elegant coloured alabaster monument to John Dudley, Esq., and 
 his widow, afterwards married to Thomas Sutton, Esq., founder of Charterhouse : 
 the writer of the long Latin inscription was rewarded with 10*., according to the roll 
 of Mr. Dudley's funeral expenses : and the tomb was restored in 1808 by subscription 
 of grateful Carthusians. Behind the church is Queen Elizabeth's Walk, a grove of 
 tall trees ; and at Newington Green is King Harry's Walk. At Stoke Newington 
 lived many years Mrs. Burbuuld, the amiable educationist, who taught Lord Denman 
 when a boy the art of declamation ; and Mr. Barbauld, her husband, was for four 
 years morning preacher to a Unitarian congregation at Newington-green. 
 
 ST. MABY-LE-STKAND, erected on the site of a very ancient church, St. Ursula of 
 the Strand, and nearly upon the site of the old Maypole, was the first built (1714-17) of 
 Queen Anne's Fifty Churches, but was to our day called " the New Church." It was 
 not consecrated till Jan. 1, 1723. Gibbs, the architect, was desired by the Commis- 
 sioners " to beautify it," on account of its public situation : hence it is overloaded with 
 ornament. It was originally to have had only a small bell-tower at the west end, 
 changed to a steeple, which therefore appears to stand on the roof ; it consists of three 
 receding stories, surmounted by a vane : when it was last repaired, at an expense of 
 47. 10s., the scaffolding cost 30/. The exterior of the body is of two stories, Ionic 
 below, the lower wall " solid, to keep out noises from the street ;" and Composite above, 
 surmounted by a balustrade and urns : during the procession to proclaim Peace, in 
 1802, one of these urns was accidentally pushed down on the crowd below, when three 
 persons were killed, and several others much hurt. The west end has a semicircular 
 Ionic portico, and occupies the Maypole site. The interior is grand, but too florid, 
 with Corinthian and Composite pilasters, ceiling crowded with ornaments, and the 
 semicircular altar-part, with the triangular symbol of the Trinity glorified, and 
 cherubim, &c. The windows are hung with crimson drapery, and in the side inter- 
 columniations are paintings of the Annunciation and the Passion, by Brown. The old 
 church was " next beyond Arundell House, on the street side," and was " called of 
 the Nativitie of our Lady (St. Mary), and the Innocents of the Strand." (Stow.) 
 Seymour states, that its site became part of the garden of Somerset House, and that 
 when the Protector pulled down this old church, be promised to build a new one for 
 the parishioners, but death prevented his fulfilling that engagement. The Rev. Joshua 
 Denham was rector of St. Mary-le-Strand ; he wrote a brief History of the Church of 
 St. Dunstan' s-in-the- West. 
 
 ST. MART'S, Windham-place, Marylebone, was designed by Sir Robert Smirke, 
 R.A., and consecrated Jan. 7, 1824, when the Rev. T. Frognall Dibdin, D.D., was 
 instituted rector. This church has a large painted east window, of the Ascension, 
 said to have cost 250 guineas. The circular tower and cupola, 135 feet high, are 
 picturesquely effective. 
 
 ST. MARY'S WOOLNOTH, one of the most striking and original churches in the 
 metropolis, is between the western ends of Lombard-street and King William-street. 
 This has been the site of a Christian church from a very early period, and previously 
 of a pagan temple. The church was rebuilt early in the fifteenth century, much in- 
 jured by the Great Fire, and repaired by Wren in the following year ; to this Alderman 
 Sir R. Viner, living in Lombard-street, contributed liberally, to commemorate which, 
 says Stow, " a number of vines were spread over that part of the church which faced 
 his house." In 1716, the church, as we now see it, was rebuilt by Hawksmoor : the 
 west front, which has an elongated tower, like two towers united, has no prototype in
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 189 
 
 England ; but its details are so heavy as to indicate rather a fortress and prison than a 
 church. The interior, on the model of a Roman atrium, is nearly square : it has twelve 
 Corinthian columns, admirably arranged, and is profusely ornamented with panels and 
 carved mouldings. It contains an Organ built by Father Schmidt, in 1681. Here is 
 a tablet to the Rev. John New ton, the friend of Cowper, and Rector of this church for 
 twenty-eight years: it bears this inscription, written by himself: 
 
 '' John Newton, clerk, once an infidel and libertine, a servant of slaves in Africa, was, by the rich 
 mercy of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, preserved, restored, pardoned, and appointed to preach 
 the faith he hart long laboured to destroy." 
 
 " I remember, when a lad of about fifteen, being 1 taken by my uncle to hear the well-known Mr. Newton 
 (the friend of Cowper the poet) preach his wife's funeral sermon in the church of St. Mary's Woolnoth, 
 in Lombard-street. .Newton was then well stricken in years, with a tremulous voice, and in the cos- 
 tume of the full-bottomed wig of the day. He had, and always had, the entire possession of the ear of 
 his congregation. He spoke at first feebly and leisurely, but as he warmed, his ideas and his periods 
 seemed mutually to enlarge : the tears trickled down his cheeks, and his action and expression were at 
 tunes quite out of the ordinary course of things. It was as the ' mens agi/< molem et magno se 
 corpore miscena.' In fact, the preacher was one with his discourse. To this day I have not forgotten his 
 text, Hab. iii. 17-18 : ' Although the fig-tree shall not blossom, neither shall fruit be in the vines; the 
 labour of the olive shall fail, and the fields shall yield no meat ; the flock shall be cut off from the fold, 
 and there shall be no herd hi the stalls ; yet I will rejoice in the Lord, I will joy in the God of my 
 salvation.' Newton always preached extemporaneous." Dr. Dibdin's Eeminuceiicet of a Literj.ru 
 Life, vol. i. p. 162. 
 
 The origin of Woolnoth is uncertain j but is attributed to the beam for weighing wool, 
 which stood in the churchyard of St. Mary's Woolchurch, in the Stocks Market, on the 
 site of the Mansion-house : this church was burnt in 1666, and the parish is now united 
 to St. Mary's Woolnoth. 
 
 St. Mary's Woolnoth was saved from destruction in 1863, although it had been some time priced for 
 sale. At a vestry meeting, the Lord Mayor (Alderman Rose) as a parishioner by his tenancy of the 
 Mansion House, ably supported the opposition to the "amalgamation" scheme, and an amendment 
 rejecting it was carried unanimously. In the Report of the Ecclesiological Society, the committee 
 recorded that the parishioners had successfully resisted a scheme put forward under the auspices 
 of the Bishop of London's Act for the demolition of the remarkable church of St. Mary \\oolnoth 
 (Hawksmoor's chef -d' centre), which it was proposed to destroy for the convenience of the General 
 Post Office." 
 
 ST. MATTHEW'S, Oakeley-crescent, City -road, built by G. G. Scott, in 1848, in the 
 Early English style, has an ornamented four-storied tower and spire, eastern lancet 
 windows, filled with stained glass, and other meritorious details ; a picturesque stone 
 porch was added July, 1866. 
 
 ST. MATTHIAS, Stoke-Newington, a Gothic church, Butterfield, architect ; seats, 
 all free. Incense niid the Eucharistic vestments are used ; and all expenses are paid 
 from the weekly offertory, except a small endowment for the incumbent. 
 
 ST. MATTHEW'S, Bethnal-Green, built in 1740, has at the west end a low square 
 tower, with a large stone vase at each angle. A second church, St. John's, was built 
 by Sir John Soane, and much resembles the Grecian church of the Holy Trinity, 
 Regent's Park. In 1839, there were only these two churches for a population of 
 80,000, and schools for about 1000 children. There were next built in the parish ten 
 churches : St. Matthew's, St. John's, St. Peter's, St. Andrew's, St. Philip's, St. James 
 the Less, St. James the Great, St. Bartholomew's, St. Jude's ; and St. Simon Zelotes, 
 the latter at the sole expense of Mr. W. Cotton. These churches owe tlu-ir origin to 
 the exertions of Bishop Blomfield ; there have been added three churches since the 
 accession of Bishop Tait in 1856. St. Matthew's church, except the walls, was burnt 
 on the night of Dec. 18, 1859, during a hard frost ; the water froze as it was poured on 
 the burning ruins. It was rebuilt by a rate levied on the parish. The apse is very 
 handsomely coloured, and has a carved stone reredos, with cross, and scenes from the 
 life of Christ. There is a good east-end window of the Crucifixion ; the stone pulpit 
 and font are finely carved. There is a curious old staff used by the beadle, the head of 
 which (in silver gilt) presents the legend of the Blind Beggar of Bethnal Green and his 
 daughter, as in the old ballad ; the date 1669. Mackeson's Churches. 
 
 ST. MATTHEW'S, Brixton, at the junction of the Tulse-hill and Brixton-hill roads, is 
 of Grecian Doric design, by Porden, and was consecrated in 1824 : it has a noble por- 
 tico, resembling the pronaos of a Grecian temple ; at the east end is a tower surmounted
 
 190 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 with an octagonal temple, from that of Cyrrhestes, at Athens. In the churchyard is a 
 costly mausoleum of Grecian design, upwards of 25 feet high. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL AND ALL ANGELS, Paul-street, Finshury, is Inrilt of yellow brick ; 
 style, First and Second Pointed; architect, J. Brook; opened, 1865. The interior, de- 
 signed for " sesthetic service," is of great width, height, and length ; and " the deep 
 Chancel, narrower than the Nave, and raised several steps, gives importance to the 
 skilfully-arranged grouping of priests and choristers, banners and crosses, millinery and 
 flowers, and saves even the processions from appearing mean." (Companion to the 
 Almanack, 1866.) It will accommodate nearly 1000 persons ; cost of site, 4700Z., 
 of which one gentleman contributed 30002. ; the building cost 7500., towards which 
 another (or the same) anonymous donor gave 6000/. The bare walls look cheerless, but 
 the architect designed them to be covered with paintings and other decorations. And 
 apart from its aesthetic character, the interior is a success; the nave columns scarcely 
 intercept the sight, and the acoustic principles seem good you hear the preacher and 
 reader well from very different parts of the church, and the tones of the organ pro- 
 duce no awkward reverberation. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL'S BASSISHAW (haugh, or hall, of the Basing family), Basinghall- 
 street, was originally founded about 1140, and rebuilt in 1-160 ; here was interred Sir 
 John Gresham, uncle to Sir Thomas Gresham, and Lord Mayor in 1547 : at his funeral, 
 on a fast-day, a fish dinner was provided for all comers : 
 
 " He was buried with a standard and pennon of arms, and a coat of armour of damask (Damascus 
 steel), and four pennons of arms ; besides a helmet, a target, and a sword, mantles and the crest, a goodly 
 hearse of wax, ten dozen of pensils, and twelve dozen of escutcheons. He had four dozen of great staff 
 torches, and a dozen of great long torches. The church and street were all hung with black, and arms 
 in great store ; and on the morrow there goodly masses were sung." Stow. . 
 
 The old church was destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren in 1676-79. It 
 contains a beautifully sculptured monument to Dr. T. Wharton, who did so much to 
 stay the Great Plague of 1665 ; and here rests Alderman Kirkman, sheriff-elect in 1780, 
 who died, at the age of 39, of a cold taken in aiding to suppress the Riots. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL'S, in Chester-square, Pimlico, is a picturesque church in the Decorated 
 style of the fourteenth century, and has a tower and spire rising from the ground at 
 the west end, 150 feet high ; Cundy, architect, 1844 ; the details are very characteristic. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL'S, Cornhill, was destroyed by the Great Fire, except the great tower, 
 which contained a celebrated set of ten bells : the body was first rebuilt by Wren, and 
 fifty years later (1729) the tower itself, which is an imitation of the splendid chapel 
 tower of Magdalen College, Oxford, built in the fifteenth century, and 145 feet high ; 
 but St. Michael's is only 130 : it has a set of twelve bells. The site is presumed to 
 have been occupied by a church since the Saxon dynasty ; it had a cloister and pulpit 
 cross. Of the old steeple, destroyed in 1421, a pen-and-ink drawing upon vellum is 
 preserved on the fly-leaf of a vellum vestry-book (temp. Henry V.) belonging to the 
 parish. In the old church and churchyard were buried Robert Fabyan, the chronicler 
 and sheriff ; and the father and grandfather of John Stow, the antiquary. In the pre- 
 sent church was buried Philip Nye, with " the thanksgiving beard," in 1672 ; Nye was 
 curate of St. Michael's from 1620 to 1633. The architect, in rebuilding the tower, 
 adhered to the Gothic style, and though the details are poor, the general outline is 
 noble and effective. It was long shut in, but some of the houses which intervened 
 between the north side of the tower and Cornhill being cleared away, to obtain an 
 entrance there to the church, a porch has been built, and two stages of the tower itself 
 have been repaired and altered, windows with tracery, and a new circular window with 
 wheel tracery immediately above the porch, having been inserted. The six shafts in 
 the jambs of the principal doorway are of red polished granite. 
 
 The sculpture in the gable of the doorway represents Our Lord in the act of benedic- 
 tion. In the tympanum below is a group representing Michael disputing with Satan 
 about the body of Moses. The other carving consists of medallions of angels, bosses of 
 foliage, &c. Architects, Scott and Mason. The church has been entirely refitted with 
 carvings executed by Rogers, under the direction of Scott and Williams, architects. 
 
 The pulpit is hexagonal, on a dwarf column of Portland stone, with the hand-rail supported by 
 oriumeiual brass-work. Un the angles are twisted pillars, each with various designs, and supporting
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 191 
 
 a cornice with branches of the hawthorn. The panels have each a different diaper pattern, with boldly 
 carved symbols of the four Evangelists in roundels. The reading-desk has two double arches and ten 
 pilasters. The centre pillars are round, resting on square bases. On each of the angles are heads of 
 the dragon, in reference to the prowess of the patron Saint. The perforated friezes in the screens 
 behind the choir-seats in the chancel are of foliated scroll-work, interspersed with sacred fruits and 
 emblematical flowers the passion-flower, trefoil, pomegranate, lily, figs, and olives. 
 
 Sixteen panels have been carved for the chancel-gates : Moses "in the Bulrushes ; the Tablets of the 
 Law, with the sword of Justice; the Star of Bethlehem; the Gospel of Peace, over which is a dove; 
 the Brazen Serpent in the Wilderness; the Seven-branch Golden Candlestick; emblems of the Sacra- 
 ment (wheat and grapes) ; chalice and paten. Solomon's Glory, represented by three crowns rising 
 out of three full-blown lilies; the Crown of Victory; emblems of the passion-flower; the Resurrection, 
 emblematized by a butterfly issuing from a chrysalis ; Light out of Darkness, the Snowdrop ; Faith, 
 Hope, and Charity ; the Trinity in Unity. 
 
 The first seat south of the chancel is a representation of the Agony in the Garden. The cup is en- 
 closed in foliage at the top, and at the back is a branch of olives copied from one gathered by E. T. 
 Rogers, vice-consul of Caiffa, Palestine, in the garden of Gethsemane : around the outer edge of this 
 bench-end are the words, " Not my will, but Thine be done." 
 
 The fronts and backs of the seats have a double row of variously enriched panelling, 180 in number, 
 the upper row being alternately relieved by sprigs or branches of sacred flowers bound with labels, and 
 having suitable inscriptions in raised letters, such as " In the midst of judgement He remembers 
 mercy ;" " Look upon the rainbow, and praise Him," &c. &c. 
 
 At the chancel end of the centre aisle there are seven seats set apart for special purposes. On the 
 right is the royal pew, with an enriched double shield surmounted by the crown, V.E., and the motto 
 " I)ieu et man droit ;" her Majesty's monogram, Victoria, in the form of a Greek cross, enclosed in foli- 
 age and flowers, the rose, thistle, and shamrock. The Diocesan pew has ecclesiastical shield with 
 croziers, mitre, and the crossed swords representing the martyrdom of St. Paul ; the Corporation pew, 
 the City arms and representation of St. George, &c. ; the pew of the Worshipful Company of Drapers, en- 
 riched shield, date, and motto of the company, " Unto God only be honour and glory," surmounted by 
 the triple crown issuing from clouds, with rays of light : on the inside are a triple branch of lilies, the 
 emblem of the Virgin, the patroness of the Company, the shield of Fitzalwyn, the first mayor of London. 
 On the pew of the Merchant Tailors' Company are the shield, &c. of the Company, and in one part is 
 introduced an illustration of a text from St. Augustine's 19th chapter of St. John, God is all to thee : if 
 thou be hungry, He is bread : if thou be thirsty, He is water : if in darkness, He is light : and, if 
 naked, He is a robe of immortality." In this instance Mr. Rogers has figured the star of light, the 
 bread, chalice, and the robe, in a manner which describes the text. Next are the pews of the Cloth- 
 workers' Company, and the Rector's pew ; on the former the teasel is conspicuous, and on the latter the 
 monogram of the Rev. T. W. Wrench, surmounted by a branch of olives. All the bench-ends in this 
 aisle have a shield, emblazoned on the outside, enclosed by Greek foliage : on the inside are fruits and 
 flowers, such as the gourd of Jonah, Syrian dates, nut fruit, oak and acorns, chestnuts, wheat ears, 
 mulberry, pine fruit, the Rose of Sharon, olives, figs, &c. Amongst the carvings on the benches for 
 the north aisle, is a female figure of Charity, seated in an ecclesiastical chair, supported by pelicans : she 
 is feeding and protecting three children, the idea from an early sculpture in Valterra marble. On other 
 seats are the pelican in her piety; the fall of man represented by the serpent coiling round the for- 
 bidden tree. On the back is the lily of the valley. The sage-plant of Palestine is combined with the 
 primrose of England, the stork of the wilderness, &c. On some of these are the sage-plant of the East, 
 combined with a branch of oak ; the ivy and the anemone, and the common flowers of the East ; a 
 cluster of pomegranates and bell-flowers, Aaron's rod, a triple branch of lily rising out of a bulbous root, 
 which is given in the form of a heart. On the device of a Latin cross is suspended the passion-flower; 
 the carving of the scape-goat wandering in the wilderness, with the mark of the High Priest on his 
 forehead : in the background is forked lightning, indicating the wrath of God. On the back of this 
 standard is a crown of thorns, " On him was laid the iniquity of us all." In the design of these 
 numerous carvings Mr. Rogers has been assisted by his son, Mr. W. H. Rogers. (See the descriptive 
 pamphlet, by Mr. Rogers.) 
 
 The colouring of the walls and ceiling of the church, the altar of alahaster and 
 marble, and the stained glass in the windows, are all executed with great richness. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL'S, Crooked-lane, was of ancient foundation, before the year 1304. In 
 1336, John Loveken, four times Lord Mayor, rebuilt the church, which received several 
 additions and benefactions from Sir William Walworth, Lord Mayor in 1374, and for- 
 merly servant to Loveken. St. Michael's was a general burial-place of stockfish- 
 mongers ; Loveken and Walworth rested here. The church was destroyed in the 
 Great Fire, but rebuilt by Wren in 1687; it had a Portland stone tower, 100 feet high, 
 and a picturesque steeple, with clock, vane, and cross. This handsome church was 
 taken down in 1831, in forming the New London Bridge approaches. Crooked-lane, 
 '' so called of the crooked windings thereof/' was then in part taken down ; it waft 
 famous for its bird-cage and fishing-tackle shops. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL'S PATERNOSTER ROYAL, Thames-street, is partly named from its neigh- 
 bourhood to the Tower Eoyal, wherein our sovereigns, as early as King Stephen, re- 
 sided. The church was rebuilt by the munificent Whittington, who was himself buried 
 in it, under a marble tomb with banners, but his remains were twice disturbed : once 
 by an incumbent, in the reign of Henry VI., who fancied that money was buried with 
 him ; and next by the parishioners, in the reign of Mary, to rewrap the body in 
 lead, of which it had been despoiled on the former occasion (Godwin's Churches of
 
 192 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 London). Whittington's church was destroyed by the Great Fire, but rebuilt by 
 Wren, and has a somewhat picturesque steeple. The interior has a beautiful altar- 
 picture, t)y Hilton, R.A., of Mary Magdalen anointing the feet of Christ : this fine 
 work was presented by the Directors of the British Institution in 1820. There was 
 long no memorial to Whittington in the present church, until the Rector contributed a 
 handsome painted window. The rights and profits of the old church Whittington 
 bestowed on a College and almshouses close by, the site of which is now occupied by 
 the Mercers' Company's School. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL'S, Queenhithe, destroyed in the Great Fire, was rebuilt by Wren in 
 1677 : it is chiefly remarkable for its spire, 135 feet high, with a gilt vane in the form 
 of a ship in full sail, the hull of which will contain a bushel of grain referring to the 
 former traffic in corn at the Hithe. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL'S, Wood-street, Cheapside, stands at the corner of Huggin-lane, named 
 from a resident there about the time of Edward I., and known as " Hugan in the 
 lane." The old church was destroyed by the Great Fire, and the present edifice 
 completed in its place by Wren, in 1675 : it is of very unecclesiastical design, but the 
 Wood-street front is well-proportioned Italian. The head of James IV. of Scotland, 
 slain at Flodden Field, Sept. 9, 1513, is said by Stow to have been buried here ; the 
 body was conveyed, after the battle, to London, and thence to the monastery of Sheen, 
 in Surrey, where it was seen by Stow, lapped in lead, but thrown into a waste room. 
 " Some workmen, for their foolish pleasure, hewed off his head, which Launcelot 
 Young, master-glazier to his Majesty, brought to his house in Wood-street, where he 
 kept it for a time ; but at length gave it to the sexton to bury amongst other bones," 
 &c. This statement is contradicted by the Scottish historians ; but Weever is positive 
 that Sheen was the place of James's burial. 
 
 ST. MILDRED'S, Bread-street, destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren, 
 1677-83, is remarkable for being roofed by a large and highly enriched cupola ; and has 
 a pulpit and sounding-board and altar-piece exquisitely carved in the style of Gibbons. 
 
 ST. MILDEED'S, Poultry, was destroyed by the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren; 
 when was united with it the parish of St. Mary Colechurch, the church of which stood 
 at the south end of the Old Jewry; its chaplain was "Peter of Colechurch," who in 
 part built old London Bridge. St. Mildred's has a tower 75 feet high, surmounted by 
 a gilt ship in full sail. In the former church was buried Thomas Tusser, who wrote 
 the Points of Susbandrie, and was by turns chorister, farmer, and singing-master. 
 
 ST. NICHOLAS COLE ABBEY, Fish-street-hill, destroyed by the Great Fire, and re- 
 built by Wren in 1677, has a tasteless steeple, 135 feet high, but some fine interior 
 carvings ; the parish register-books contain a list of persons, with their ages, whom 
 King James II. at his coronation touched for the cure of the Evil. 
 
 ST. OLATE, Hart-street, escaped the Great Fire : it is of Norman, Early English, 
 Decorated, and Perpendicular work ; the foundation and walls are of rubble, and the 
 upper part brick. There does not exist any account of its erection ; and the first men- 
 tion of its Rector, William de Samford, who held that office prior to 1319, and whose 
 salary was 2^ marks per annum, refers to an earlier structure than the present St. 
 Olave's. It has an interesting interior, with clustered columns and pointed arches and 
 windows, and the ceilings of the aisles powdered with stars. This church is often 
 mentioned in the Diary of Samuel Pepys, Secretary to the Navy (temp. Charles II. 
 and James II.), who lived in a house belonging to the Navy Office, in Seething-lane, 
 and resided subsequently in Hart-street : he was buried in St. Olave's at nine at night, 
 " in a vault of his own makeing, by his wife and brother," " by y e Communion Table," 
 June 4, 1703 ; and there is a monument to his wife in the chancel. There are also 
 several figure tombs and brasses ; and a marble figure of Sir Andrew Riccard (d. 1672), 
 who bequeathed the advowson of the living to the parish. There is likewise a monu- 
 ment to John Orgone and Ellyne his wife, with a quaint inscription, which is some- 
 times found in Latin :
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 193 
 
 " As I was so be ye, 
 As I am you shall be, 
 That I gave that I have, 
 That I spent that I had. 
 Thus I ende all my cost, 
 That I left that 1 loste. 1584." 
 
 St. Olave's was repaired in 1863 ; one of the towers at the west end of the south aisle, 
 hitherto bricked up, has been thrown into the church, and now forms a baptistry ; the 
 roof, which is of oak, has been varnished, and the bosses, &c., gilt. A new reredos 
 has been erected, from a design of G. G. Scott ; it is composed of Caen stone, and has 
 five panels of alabaster. In the churchyard are interred a number of victims to the 
 Great Plague : the first entry in the register is dated July 24, 1665 : " Mary, daughter of 
 William Ramsay, one of the Drapers' Almsmen ;" and there is a tradition that the pesti- 
 lence first appeared in the Drapers' Almshouses, Cooper's-row, in this parish. Here is 
 a peal of six bells, five made by Anthony Bartlet, in 1662 j the sixth by James 
 Bartlet, in 1694. 
 
 ST. OLAVE'S, Jewry, a brick church, rebuilt by Wren, in 1763-76, upon the site of 
 the old church, destroyed in the Great Fire, is alone remarkable for containing the 
 remains of Alderman Boydell, the eminent engraver and printseller, who expended a 
 large fortune in founding the English School of Historic Painting : he was Lord Mayor 
 in 1790(d. 1804) ; and on the north wall of the church is a tablet to his memory, 
 surmounted by his bust. 
 
 ST. OLAVE'S, Tooley-street, Southwark, in Bridge Ward Without, was designed in 
 1737-39, by Flitcroft, a pupil of Kent ; the funds being mostly advanced by a French 
 emigrant, on an annuity for his life ; and he dying soon after, it became a saying that 
 the Organ had cost more than the church : it had a richly- decorated interior, and a fine 
 peal of bells. The interior was burnt almost to the walls on August 19, 1843 ; when 
 also was destroyed Watson's Telegraphic Tower, originally a shot manufactory. St. Olave's 
 Church has since been handsomely restored. The former church was of the fourteenth 
 century, with a low square tower and bell-house. The first church was certainly 
 founded prior to the Norman Conquest, from its dedication to St. Olave, or Olaff, King 
 of Norway, who, with Ethelred, in 1008, destroyed the bridge at London, then occupied 
 by the Danes. The present church is nearly on the site of this exploit ; for the first 
 bridge was somewhat eastward of the old bridge, taken down after the building of the 
 present bridge. St. Olave has been corrupted into St. Oley and Tooley-street. 
 
 ST. PANCRAS-IN-THE-FIELDS, one of the oldest churches in Middlesex, is situated 
 on the north side of the road leading from King's Cross to Kentish Town. Norden, in 
 his Speculum Britannia, describes it, in 1593, as standing " all alone, utterly forsaken, 
 old and wether-beten ;" "yet about this structure have bin manie buildings, now 
 decaied, leaving poore Pancras without companie or comfort." St. Pancras is a pre- 
 bendal manor, and was granted by Ethelbert to St. Paul's Cathedral about 603. It was 
 a parish before the Conquest. Its ancient church, which Stukeley says occupied the 
 site of a Roman camp, was erected about 1180 ; it consisted of a nave and chancel, 
 built of stones and flints, and a low tower, with a bell-shaped roof. St. Pancras con- 
 tained, in 1251, only forty houses. Pancras was corrupted to " Pancredge" in Queen 
 Elizabeth's time. In 1745 only three houses had been built near the church. In 
 1775 the population was not 600. It is now the most extensive parish in Middlesex, 
 being eighteen miles in circumference. The annual value of land (including the 
 houses built upon it, the railways, &c.) is 3,798,521. 
 
 " Of late," says Strype, " those of the Roman Catholic religion have affected to be 
 buried here, and it has been assigned as a reason that prayer and mass are said daily in 
 St. Peter's at Rome for their souls, as well as in a church dedicated to St. Pancras, in 
 the south of France." In Windham's Diary, we find another explanation of the choice : ' 
 " While airing one day with Dr. Brocklesby, in passing and returning by St. Pancras 
 Church, he (Dr. Johnson) fell into prayer, and mentioned, upon Dr. Brocklesby inquiring 
 why the Catholics chose that spot for their burial-place, that some Catholics in Queen 
 Elkabeth's time had been burnt there." It is also understood that this church was the 
 last whose bell tolled in England lor mass, and in which any rites of the Roman . 
 
 o
 
 194 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Catholic religion were celebrated before the Reformation. The crosses with " Requiescat 
 in Pace," or the initials of those words, " R. I. P.," on the monuments and tombstones, 
 are very frequent. At the beginning of the present century the French clergy were 
 buried here at the average rate of thirty a-year. There is said to have been in the 
 church a silver tomb, which was taken away at the time of the Commonwealth. The 
 edifice, reconstructed and enlarged by A. D. Gough, was reopened July 5, 1848 : the 
 style adopted was Anglo-Norman : the building was lengthened westward ; the old tower 
 was removed, and a new one built on the south side ; and to the west end was added a 
 Norman porch, and a wheel-window in the gable above. In the progress of the works 
 were found Roman bricks, a small altar-stone, Early Norman capitals, an Early 
 English piscina, and Tudor brickwork. Under the old tower, which was then removed, 
 is said to have been privately interred, in a grave 14 feet deep, the body of Earl 
 Ferrers, executed at Tyburn, in 1760. The Chancel windows are filled with stained 
 glass, by Gibbs, as is also the western wheel-window. On the north wall, opposite 
 the baptistery, is the Early Tudor marble Purbeck memorial, supposed to have belonged 
 to the Gray family, of Gray's Inn ; the recesses for brasses removed, and neither dates 
 nor arms remaining. On the south-east interior wall is the marble tablet, with palette 
 and pencils, to Samuel Cooper, the celebrated miniature-painter ; the arms are those of 
 Sir Edward Turner, Speaker of the House of Commons in the reign of Charles II., at 
 whose expense it is probable the monument was erected. The ancient communion- 
 plate of the church, date 1638, discovered in 1848, is now again in use. 
 
 Iii the burial-ground of Old St. Pancras are deposited scions of the noble families of Abergavenny, 
 Arundell, Barnewall, Calvert, Castlehaven, Clifford, Dillon, Fleming, Howard, Litchfield, Montagu, Rut- 
 land, Waldegrave, Wharton, and other distinguished persons.' Here lies Lady Barbara Belasyse, whose 
 father was grandnephew of the Lord Falconberg who married Cromwell's daughter. Among the illus- 
 trious foreigners interred here are Count Harlang ; Louis Charles, Count de Herville, Mareschal of 
 France; Philip, Count de Montlosier, Lieutenant-Gene ral in the French army; Angelus Franciscus 
 Talaru de Chalmaret, Bishop of Coutances, in Normandy ; Francois Claude Amour, Marquis de Bouille* ; 
 Augustinus Eenatus Ludovicus Le Mintier, Bishop and Count of Treguier: Alexandre Marquis de Lire; 
 Louis Claude Bigot de St. Croix, dernier Ministre de Louis XVI. ; Louise d'Esparbes, de Lussan, Com- 
 tesse de Polastron, Dame de Palais de la Heine de France; Louis Andr6 Grimaldi d'Antibes des Princes 
 de Monaco, Eveque, et Comte de Noyon, Pair de France; Jean Francois de la Marche, Bishop of Pol 
 St. Leon; Henri, Marquis de 1'Ostanges, Grand Seneschal de Quercy, and Field Marshal of France; 
 Baroness de Montalembert ; Pascal de Paoli, the Corsican patriot, kinsman of the Bonapartes, and as 
 such of the present Emperor of the French ; Pasqualino Philip St. Martin, Comte de Front, the in- 
 scription on whose tomb is" A foreign land preserves his ashes with respect." 
 
 Near the church door is a headstone to William Woollett, the engraver, and his widow ; it was 
 restored some years since. On the north side of the churchyard is an altar-tomb to William Godwin, . 
 author of Caleb Williams, and his two wives, Mary Wolstoncroft Godwin and Mary Jane. Here, too, 
 is a headstone to John Walker, author of the Pronouncing Dictionary. Here, also, were buried . 
 Abraham Woodhead, reputed by some the author of The Whole Duty of Man; and near him his friend, . 
 Obadiah Walker; Dr. Grebe, editor of the Septuagint ; Jeremy Collier, who wrote against the immo- 
 rality of the stage in the time of Dryden; Lewis Theobald, the editor of Shakspeare; Lady Henrietta 
 Beard, daughter of an Earl Waldegrave, widow of Lord Edward Herbert, and wife of Beard, the 
 singer; S. F. Ravenet, the engraver; Arthur Richard Dillon (of Lord Dillon's family), Bishop of 
 Evreux, Archbishop of Narbonne, and President of the States of Languedoc ; the Chevalier D'Eon, &c. . 
 And here rests Father Arthur O'Leary, to whom Earl Moira erected a monument, which has been 
 repaired by public subscription. 
 
 ST. PANCRAS, near Euston-square, Enston-road, was built by Messrs. Inwood ; the 
 first stone being laid by the Duke of York, July 1, 1819. The cella, or body of the 
 church, is designed from the Erechtheium, dedicated to Minerva Polias and Pandrosus, 
 at Athens ; and the steeple, 168 feet high, is from the Athenian Tower of the Winds, 
 with a cross, in lieu of the Triton and wand, symbols of the wind, in the original. 
 The clock-dials are but 6^ feet in diameter, though at the height of 100 feet, and there- 
 fore are much too small. The western front of the church has a fine portico of six 
 columns, with richly-sculptured voluted capitals ; beneath are three enriched doorways, 
 designed exactly from those of the Erechtheium, and exquisite in detail. Towards the 
 east end are lateral porticoes, each supported by colossal statues of females, on a plinth, 
 in which are entrances to the catacombs beneath the church, to contain two thousand 
 coffins : each of the figures bears an ewer in one hand, and rests the other on an in- 
 verted torch, the emblem of death j these figures are of terra-cotta (artificial stone), 
 formed in pieces, and cemented round cast-iron pillars, which in reality support the en- 
 tablature. 
 
 These figures are ill-executed, as may be seen by reference to the original Caryatides from the Pan- 
 drosium, in the Elgin Collection in the British Museum. The St. Pancras figures, and other artificial, 
 stone details for the church, were executed by Rossi, from Messrs. Inwood's designs, and cost 54/001.
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 195 
 
 The eastern front varies from the ancient Temple in having a semicircular termination, 
 round which, and along the side walls, are terra-cotta imitations of Greek tiles. The 
 interior is designed in conformity with the general plan of ancient temples. The 
 pulpit and reading-desk are made from the trunk of " the Fairlop Oak," in Hainault 
 Forest, blown down in 1820. The cost of this classic edifice, much too close a resem- 
 blance to a Pagan temple to be appropriate for a Christian church, was 76,679. The 
 fine Organ, recently erected, was originally built by Gray and Davison for the New Music 
 Hall at Birmingham, and cost nearly 20001. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S, Avenue-road, St. John's-wood, is of red and black brick, in various 
 patterns, with stone window -frames and dressings ; the tiled entrance surmounted by 
 a wooden bell-cote. The roof is of high pitch and wide span, and is borne by the 
 walls, which have internal buttresses dividing them into five bays : there are, conse- 
 quently, no pillars to obstruct light or sound, but all is clear and open : architect, 
 S. S. Teuton; completed 1859. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S, Camden New Town, St. Pancras, was built in 1848-9 (Ordish and 
 Johnson, architects) j it is majestically situated, and consists of a nave and aisles, with 
 transepts and chancel, and a tower and spire at the west end, 156 feet high ; the 
 windows are Decorated, the roofs have crosses and crestings, and the arrangement is 
 very picturesque : this large church, for 1200 persons, cost less than 9000/. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S, Covent Garden, was commenced for the ground-landlord, Francis Earl 
 of Bedford, by Inigo Jones, in 1631, but not finished till 1638 ; this being the last of 
 that great architect's works. The Earl's commission is stated to have been for a chapel 
 " not much bigger than a barn ;" when Jones replied, " Well, then, you shall have the 
 handsomest barn in England." The truth of this anecdote has been questioned : for 
 the fabric cost 4500Z., a large sum for those days. Pennant ascribes the church to the 
 second Duke of Bedford, " whom," says Walpole (Letters, Sept. 18, 1791), "he takes 
 for the first, and even then would not be right, for I conclude Earl Francis, who died 
 in 1641, was the builder, as the church was probably not erected after the Civil War 
 began." It was built of brick, with a portico at the east front, consisting of a pediment 
 supported by four Tuscan columns of stone, and the roof was covered with tiles : 
 Hollar's print of it shows a small bell-turret surmounted with a cross. Within the 
 pediment was placed a pendulum clock, made by Richard Harris in 1641, and stated 
 by an inscription in the vestry to be the first made. 
 
 If this inscription be correct, it negatives the claim of Huyghens to having first applied the pendu- 
 lum to the clock, about 1657; although Justice Bergen, mechanician to the Emperor Kodolphus, who 
 reigned from 1576 to 1612, is said to have attached one to a clock used by Tycho Branch Inigo Jones, 
 the architect of St. Paul's, having been in Italy during the time of Galileo, it is probable that he com- 
 municated what he heard of the pendulum to Harris. Huyghens, however, violently contested for the 
 priority ; while others claimed it for the younger Galileo, who, they asserted, had, at his father's sugges- 
 tion, applied the pendulum to a clock in Venice which was finished in 1649. Adam Thomson's Time 
 and Timekeepers, pp. 67, 68. 
 
 The ceiling of the interior was beautifully painted by E. Pierce, senior, a pupil of 
 Van Dyck. Inigo Jones was present at the consecration by Bishop Juxon, Sept. 27, 
 1638. In 1725 it is recorded that the Earl of Burlington gave 3002. or 4002. to 
 restore the portico, which had been spoiled by some injudicious repairs. Its appearance 
 in the middle of last century is familiar from one of Hogarth's prints of " The Times 
 of the Day." In the picture of " Morning " the front of this church is represented. 
 The church dial points to a few minutes before seven A.M., and two very incongruous 
 groups appear Miss Bridget Alworthy, with her foot-boy carrying her prayer-book, 
 going to the early service, while some dissipated rakes are staggering out of Tom 
 King's Coffee-house, hard by. 
 
 In 1788, the walls of the church were cased with Portland stone ; and the rustic 
 gateways at the east front, which Jones had imitated in brick and plaster from Palladio, 
 were then rebuilt with stone. In 1795, the interior of the church was burnt, the fine 
 old roof, the stained glass, and some pictures, including one of Charles I., by Lely, 
 being then destroyed ; but the portico and the walls remained, and the edifice was 
 restored by the elder Hardwick. The altar-piece has two figures of angels, sculptured 
 by Banks, K.A. Among the eminent persons interred here are Samuel Butler, author 
 
 2 
 
 \
 
 196 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of Hudlbras, whose friends could not afford to bury him in Westminster Abbey ; Sir 
 Peter Lely, the painter, to whom there was a monument, with a bust by Gibbons, 
 destroyed with the old church ; Edward Kynaston, the famed actor of female parts, 
 who played Juliet to Betterton's Romeo ; William Wycherley, the witty dramatist, 
 who had " a true nobleman look ;" Susannah Centlivre, who wrote The Wonder ; 
 Grinling Gibbons, the sculptor and wood-carver ; Dr. John Armstrong, known by his 
 didactic poem, The Art of Preserving Health ; and Charles Macklin, the actor, at the 
 supposed age of 107 : the two last in a vault under the Communion-table. Another 
 centenarian, named by Strype, is Marmaduke Conway, buried here 1717, at the age of 
 108 years and some months : he was in the service of the royal family from the reign of 
 King James I. to his dying day. and was much liked by Charles I. for his skill in hawking. 
 Here, too, lie Michael Kelly, the musical composer ; and Estcourt, the founder of the 
 original Beef-steak Club. Wolcot (Peter Pindar,) lies beneath the vestry-room ; and 
 Butler in the churchyard, abutting on King-street. Dr. Arne's remains are also said to 
 rest here without any tombstone or memorial. In the churchyard lies Sir Robert 
 Strange, the engraver, who published his own prints at "the Golden Head," Henrietta- 
 street. Holland and Edwin, and many players of minor note, are also buried in the 
 churchyard. The portico and overhanging roof of the church are picturesque in 
 eftect ; and the whole building is impressive from its vastness, and agreeable from the 
 simple rusticity of the order. 
 
 Du Val, the famous highwayman, executed at Tyburn, Jan. 21, 1669, after lying in itate at the 
 Tangier Tavem, St. Giles, was buried in the middle aisle of St. Paul's ; his funeral was attended with 
 flambeaux, and a numerous train of mourners, including many of the fair sex. 
 
 Before the portico of St. Paul's Chuich is erected the hustings for the election of members of Par- 
 liament for Westminster. Contests are now restricted to one day ; but Westminster was, for many 
 Parliaments, the cockpit wherein battles of Court and people were fought, when " madman's holiday" 
 extended to fifteen days; from Bradshaw and Waller to Fox and Sheridan; Burdett, Cochrane, and 
 Hobhouse ; and the popular dii minoret, Hunt and Cartwright. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S, Herne-hill, between Camberwell and Dolwich, was built in 1844-5, by 
 Stevens and Alexander, in the Perpendicular Gothic style of the 15th century. It had 
 a lofty stone tower and spire, and a highly-decorated interior : the ceiling was divided, 
 by moulded beams and Gothic tracery, into panels, elaborately painted ; the beams 
 had illuminated Scripture texts ; all the windows were filled with stained glass ; the 
 open seats were of polished oak ; the floor is laid with coloured encaustic tiles, and the 
 chancel-steps with tasteful porcelain, by Copeland ; the Decalogue, &c., was written in 
 illuminated characters upon porcelain slabs ; and the pulpit panels were filled with paint- 
 ings of the Evangelists and Apostles. As this was one of the earliest specimens of 
 modern High-Church embellishment, so it was one of the most beautiful. The interior 
 was destroyed by fire in 1858, but has been rebuilt (Street, architect) in an earlier 
 style, and according to stricter ecclesiastical principles. Mr. Ruskin has pronounced 
 the church to be, as it now stands, " one of the loveliest churches of the kind in the 
 country, and one that makes the fire a matter of rejoicing." 
 
 ST. PAUL'S, Lorimore-square, Walworth, erected 1857, H. Jarvis, architect; Early 
 English, with Transition details ; has a tower and spire of good form, at the north-east 
 angle, 122 feet high. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S CHUECH POE SEAMEN OP THE POET OF LONDON, near the London 
 and St. Katharine's Docks, the Sailors' Home, and the Seamen's Asylum, was founded 
 by Prince Albert, May 11, 1846, and consecrated July 10, 1847 ; H. Roberts, architect. 
 The style is Early English, with a western tower and spire 100 feet high. Prince 
 Albert gave the east window and communion-plate, and was present at the consecration. 
 " In the course of a year it is computed that about 7000 seamen come to this church : a 
 field of usefulness that can scarcely be overrated." (Low's Charities of London, p. 390.) 
 St. Paul's has superseded the Episcopal Floating Church, originally the Brazen sloop- 
 of-war: she was moored in the Pool, and fitted with a small organ; and boats 
 were provided on Sundays at the Tower-stairs for the free passage of sailors to 
 attend the ship service, which was under the direct superintendence of Dr. Blomfield, 
 Bishop of London. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S, Shadwell, named from its being in the patronage of the Dean and 
 Chapter of St. Paul's, was originally built in 1656 ; but rebuilt, as we now see it, in
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 197 
 
 1820-1, by Walters, who died in the latter year : it has a beautiful spire, and is 
 throughout a very meritorious design. The parish, formerly a hamlet of Stepney, was 
 called Chadwelle, from a spring dedicated to St. Chad, within the churchyard. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S, Virginia-row, Bethnal-green, W. Wigginton, architect, is an inexpensive 
 church, built for a very poor neighbourhood. It is of ordinary stock brick, with red 
 and black bands ; has a four-light east window, with tracery ; and at the north-east 
 angle a square chamfered tower of four stages, with a short broach spire. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S, Wilton-place, Knightsbridge, designed by Cnndy, was consecrated by 
 the Bishop of London, May 30, 1843. It has an Early Perpendicular and eight- 
 pinnacled tower, 121 feet high. It consists of a nave and two aisles, and a chancel, 
 the latter very handsome ; here, in advance of the reading-desk and pulpit, is the 
 lectern. On the south are three sedilia ; over the Communion-table are three com- 
 partments of stonework, terminating in a reredos, above which is the great window of 
 stained glass, by Wailes, portraying the Prophets and the Twelve Apostles : the 
 window and stonework cost 1000Z. The font is of Caen stone, and has eight sculptured 
 panels, angels holding a shield or book, plant bosses, &c. The Organ is a very powerful 
 one, and has a richly-canopied case ; it covers 14 feet square, and is 30 feet high. 
 The roof is open, and is said to be the largest unsupported by pillars of any ecclesias- 
 tical edifice in the metropolis. Eight of the side windows are filled with stained 
 glass, by Wailes, representing scenes and actions of St. Paul and other Apostles. The 
 choral service is efficiently performed; the silver-gilt Communion- plate is very massive; 
 the altar appointments are truly Anglican. The cost of this church was 11,000., 
 exclusive of fittings. The Rev. W. J. E. Bennett, M.A., of Christ Church, Oxford, 
 appointed to the incumbency in 1843, resigned in 1850, and was succeeded by the 
 Hon. and Rev. R. Liddell. The furniture and services of this church have given rise 
 to much ritualistic controversy and litigation. 
 
 ST. PETEE'S, Belsize-park, Hampstead, is a cruciform Decorated church, with a nave, 
 five bays, and a handsome east window of five lights ; all the windows are of stained 
 glass, stated to be the work of the incumbent : completed 1859. 
 
 ST. PETEE'S, Cornhill, was rebuilt of brick by Wren, after the Great Fire; it has 
 a tower and spire 140 feet high, surmounted by an enormous key, the emblem of St. 
 Peter. Here is a tablet recording the death by fire, Jan. 18, 1782, of the sven 
 children of James and Mary Woodmason, of Leadenhall-street. The nave and 
 chancel are separated by a carved wainscot rood-screen, set up by direction of Bishop 
 Beveridge, who was 32 years rector of St. Peter's, and who paid special attention to 
 the appropriateness of church furniture and repairs. An inscription upon a brass plate 
 in the vestry-room describes the old church as founded A.D. 179, a statement un- 
 supported by facts. Stow records a murderer to have fled to St. Peter's for sanctuary 
 in 1230 ; and one of the priests was murdered in 1243. 
 
 ST. PETEE'S, Eaton-square, Pimlico, an Ionic Church ; H. Hakewill, architect j 
 consecrated in 1827. The altar-piece, " Christ crowned with Thorns," painted by W. 
 Hilton, R.A., was presented to the church by the British Institution. 
 
 ST. PETEK'S, Saffron-hill, a district church of St. Andrew's, Holborn, was designed by 
 C. Barry, R.A., in the Anglo-Norman Style, and consecrated in 1832 : it has been placed 
 in a proverbially depraved locality, with the most salutary effect. 
 
 ST. PETEE'S, Sumner-street, Bankside, designed by Edmunds, and consecrated 1839, 
 is in the plain Pointed style, and has an embattled tower 84 feet high. 
 
 ST. PETEE'S-LE-POOE, Old Broad-street, was taken down in 1788, rebuilt by Jesse 
 Gibson, and consecrated by Bishop Porteus in 1792. The church is traceable to 
 1181 : it was " sometime peradventure a poor parish" (Stow), but scarcely now con- 
 tains one pauper. 
 
 ST. PETEE'S, Vauxhall, occupies part of the site of the once famous Vauxhall 
 Gardens, was designed by J. L. Pearson, and consecrated in 1864. The style is First 
 Pointed, of French type. It has two aisles, a western vestibule, nave, baptistery attached 
 to the west side of the south aisles, and polygonal aisleless chancel j there are four
 
 198 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 bays to the nave, which comprises a sort of blank triforium, to be hereafter filled with 
 pictures, the subjects of which, it is suggested, should be from the Old and New Testa- 
 ments, on the respective appropriate sides. The triforium of the chancel is open, 
 composed of seven coupled lights, with rear-vaults and detached shafts ; the clerestory 
 of the chancel is composed of acute lancets deeply splayed. The reredos of alabaster, 
 carved, is by Poole ; the mosaics on the wall are executed by Dr. Salviati, of Venice. 
 Beneath the triforium arcade of the east end it is proposed to place a line of frescoes, 
 representing the Passion. The whole of the church is groined in brick, with stone 
 ribs springing from vaulting-shafts of red stone, with carved capitals. The pulpit is 
 square, and of stone, with an incised picture towards the west, representing St. Peter 
 preaching on the Day of Pentecost : it is also richly carved. " Mr. Pearson's excellent 
 Church of St. Peter's is memorable as the first example, in London, in the present 
 revival, of a church vaulted throughout." Report of the Ecclesiological Society. 
 
 ST. PETEE'S AD VINCULA, the chapel of the Tower, situate north-west of the White 
 Tower, dates as early as Henry I. : it was restored by Edward III., who added 18Z. to 
 the original 31. of rectorial endowment. The seats are appropriated to the inhabi- 
 tants of the Tower. , It is a very old rectory, and was put under the jurisdiction of 
 the Bishop of London by Edward VI. and Queen Mary : it is extra-parochial. The 
 present chapel was erected temp. Edward I. ; it is of squared stones and flints, and has a 
 small bell- tower. The interior consists of a chancel, nave, and north aisle, the two latter 
 separated by flat-pointed arches springing from clustered columns ; but little of the 
 original building remains. This chapel is extremely interesting, as the burial-place of 
 these eminent persons, executed within the Tower walls or upon Tower-hill : Queen 
 Anne Boleyn (beheaded 1536) ; Queen Katherine Howard (beheaded 1542) ; Sir 
 Thomas More (beheaded 1535) ; Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex (beheaded 1540) ; 
 Margaret Countess of Shrewsbury (beheaded 1541) ; Thomas Lord Seymour, Lord 
 Admiral, beheaded 1549, by warrant of his own brother, the Protector Somerset, who 
 in 1552 was executed on the same scaffold; John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland 
 (beheaded 1553). 
 
 " There lyeth before the High Altar in St. Peter's Church, two Dukes between two Queenes, to wit, 
 the Duke of Somerset and the Duke of Northumberland, between Queen Anne and Queen Katherine, 
 all four beheaded." Stow (Hoicet't), 
 
 Lady Jane Grey and her husband, Lord Dudley (beheaded 1553-4) ; Robert Deve- 
 reux, Earl of Essex (beheaded 1600) : under the communion table lies the Duke of 
 Monmouth (beheaded 1684) ; and beneath the gallery, Lords Kilmarnock and Bal- 
 merino (beheaded 1746) ; and Simon Lord Lovat (beheaded 1747). The Register 
 records the burial in this chapel of Sir Thomas Overbury, poisoned in the Tower, 1613 : 
 and here lies Sir John Eliot, who died a prisoner in the fortress, his son being refused 
 by King Charles I. permission to remove the body to Cornwall for interment. Also 
 are buried in St. Peter's, John Roettier, " his Majesty's engraver at the Tower ;" and 
 Colonel Gurwood, who edited the Wellington Despatches. In the north aisle is the 
 altar-tomb, with effigies, of Sir Richard Chohnondeley (Lieutenant of the Tower, 
 temp. Henry VII.) and his wife, Lady Elizabeth. In the chancel is a rich marble 
 monument to Sir Richard Blount and his son Sir Michael, Lieutenants of the Tower, 
 sixteenth century ; with figures of the knight and his sons in armour, and of his wife 
 and daughters. Here also is the tomb of Sir Allan Apsley, Lieutenant of the Tower ; 
 and in the nave-floor is the inscribed gravestone of Talbot Edwards, keeper of the 
 Regalia in the Tower when Blood stole the crown. In the Tower Liberties the paro- 
 chial perambulation on Holy Thursday is triennial : after service in the church of St. 
 Peter, in the Tower, a procession is formed of the headsman bearing an axe, a painter 
 to mark the bounds, yeomen-warders with halberts, the Deputy-Lieutenant, and other 
 officers of the Tower, &c. ; the boundary-stations are painted with a red broad arrow 
 upon a white ground, while the Chaplain of St. Peter's repeats " Cursed be he who 
 removeth his neighbour's landmark." 
 
 ST. PETEE'S, Walworth-road, in the parish of St. Mary, Newington, was built in 
 1823-5, and cost about 19.000Z. It is one of Soane's classic churches ; the west front 
 decorated with Ionic columns, and the tower has two stories, the lower Corinthian 
 and the upper Composite. The interior is in elegant and original taste.
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 199 
 
 ST. PETEB'S, Great Windmill-street, is in close juxtaposition with the Argyll 
 Rooms. The first stone was laid by the Earl of Derby, in 1860 : it was built by 
 subscription of the richer of the parish of St. James's, to supply the wants of the 
 poorer. To the fund of 12,0001., Lord Derby contributed 4500/. It is remarkable 
 for its picturesque west front, the only portion not shut in by the surrounding houses : 
 the church cost about 60001., and the site a like sum : architect, Raphael Brandon ; 
 style, Decorated Early English. 
 
 ST. SAVIOUR'S, Cedars-road, Clapham Common, built by the Rev. Wentworth 
 Bowyer, rector of Clapham ; James Knowles, architect ; cost about 10,OOOZ. ; is cruci- 
 form, and has, at the intersection of the nave and transepts, a central pinnacled tower, 
 120 feet high. The windows are filled with stained glass by Clayton and Bell, a con- 
 nected series, illustrating the life of our Lord on earth. Under the tower, and in 
 front of the altar rails, is an altar-tomb, bearing on it a recumbent effigy of Mrs. 
 Bowyer, co-foundress of the church, who died just before its completion. The style is 
 Second Pointed : the mouldings, tracery, and carving are good. 
 
 ST. SAVIOUR'S, Hoxton, built 1866, J. Brooks, architect, of brick, with stone bands ; 
 in the First Pointed Gothic style, of Continental cast. The apse with half-conical roof, 
 the Nave roof 75 feet high, and the spirelet, rising like a sanctus bell, are externally 
 effective ; Lancet clerestory windows, good. 
 
 ST. SAVIOUE AND CROSS, Wellclose-square, was built at the expense of Christian V. 
 King of Denmark, in 1696, by Caius Gabriel Gibber, wl.o erected here a monument to 
 his wife Jane, mother of Colley Gibber, the famous dran atist. King Christian VII. of 
 Denmark, attended the church in 1768 while he remained in this country : it is still 
 used by the Danes, as well as by St. George's Mission. 
 
 ST. SAVIOUR'S, Pimlico ; architect, T. Gundy ; Second Pointed in style, has a tower 
 and spire 190 feet high, only 12 feet less than the height of the London Monument. 
 It cost 12,000., towards which the Marquis of Westminster contributed ?QOO. 
 
 ST. SAVIOUR'S, Southwark, a short distance from the south foot of London-bridge, 
 ranks in magnitude and architectural character as the third church in the metropolis, 
 and is one of the few churches in the kingdom possessing a Lady Chapel. Roman 
 masonry and pottery have been found below the church floor. 
 
 A romantic tradition is associated with this church. Stow, in the account which he received from 
 Linsted, the last Prior, describes it as " Saint Mary ouer the Hie, or Overy, that is, over the water. 
 This church, or some other in place thereof, was (of old time, long before the Conquest) an House 
 of Sisters, founded by a mayden named Mary, unto the which House and Sitters she left (as 
 was left to her by her parents) the ouersight and profits of a Crosse Ferrie, or trauerse ferrie ouer the 
 Thames, there kept before any bridge was builded." (See LONDON BRIDGE, p. 65.) This story has 
 however, been much discredited. The shrouded figure now in the north aisle has been gossipingly 
 assigned to Audery, the Ferryman, father of the foundress of St. Mary Overie's, There is a curious, 
 although probably fabulous, tract of his life, entitled, "The True History of the Life and sudden Death 
 of old John Overs, the rich Ferry-Man of London, shewing how he lost his life by his own covetousness. 
 And of his daughter Mary, who caused the church of St. Mary Overs in Southwark to be built; and of 
 the building of London Bridge." There are two editions : the first, 1637. with woodcuts ; the second, 
 1771, " Printed for T. Harris at the Looking-Glass on London Bridge." It is among S. \V. Musgrave's 
 Biographical Tracts in the British Museum. A synopsis of the story is given in the Chronicles of 
 London Bridge, pp. 40-44. 
 
 This was originally the church of the Augustine Priory of St. Mary Overie, and was 
 founded by the Norman knights, William Pont de 1'Arche and William Dauncy. The 
 nave of the church is attributed to Gifford, Bishop of Winchester in 1106 (7th 
 Henry I.) ; and an arch, an apsis, and other remains of this date, have been uncovered 
 by the removal of the masonry of the church, altered in the reigns of Richard II. and 
 Henry IV. After the Dissolution of the Monasteries, this church was purchased of 
 Henry VIII. by the people of Southwark ; and in 1540, it was made parochial as St. 
 Saviour's, and united with the two parishes of St. Mary Magdalen and St. Margaret- 
 at-Hill. The church is cathedral or cruciform in plan, with a nave, transepts, choir, and 
 Lady Chapel, and a lofty embattled tower at the central intersection ; besides Mary 
 Magdalen's and the Bishop's Chapels, now removed. An etching, by Hollar, executed 
 for Dugdale's Monasticon, shows the church about 1660. The Choir and Lady Chapel 
 were commenced in the Lancet style, according to an ancient chronicle : " John 
 
 \
 
 200 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 anno X (1208). Seynte Marie Overie was that yere begonne." In 1618, the fine 
 perspective of nave and choir was destroyed by an organ- screen, set up iu place of the 
 ancient rood-loft. In 1624, the Lady Chapel, which had been let out as a bakehouse 
 for 60 years, was restored ; and in 1689, the tower was repaired, and the pinnacles were 
 rebuilt : height 150 feet. From the roof Hollar drew his celebrated Views of London, 
 before and after the Great Fire, lately rendered familiar by Martin's pen-and-ink 
 lithograph. The choir, transepts, Lady Chapel, and tower are the work of Bishop de 
 Rupibus, and afford a good specimen of the architecture of the commencement of the 
 thirteenth century, when the Pointed style flourished in its greatest purity. The 
 windows are lancet-shaped, the buttresses large and massive, united to the choir by 
 segments of arches ; the pinnacles which finish the buttresses closely resemble the cor- 
 responding works of Wykeham at Winchester. The eastern gable of the choir and 
 the foliated cross on the apex are very fine. " Of the east end," says Mr. George Gwilt, 
 " no remains of the more ancient building existed ; for this part of the restoration, the 
 eastern end of Salisbury Cathedral furnished the requisite data, and this is fully borne 
 out by Wyngrerde's Drawing of London, 1543." 
 
 For a long interval, the only repairs of the church tended to its disfigurement, by 
 barbarous brick casing and the destruction of beautiful windows ; until, in 1818, the 
 repair of the entire edifice was commenced with the tower. Ascending the tower, it 
 will be seen that a great portion of its elevation was open to the church as a lantern, 
 before the present painted ceiling, with its trap, was set up. " This tower," says Mr. 
 Gwilt, " if we may indicate the period of its erection from a well-preserved bust on 
 the north-west pier, must have been built so long ago as the time of King John. It 
 was not so much time, as the tremendous vibration caused by the ringing of a fine peal 
 of twelve bells, containing nearly eleven tons of metal (the tenor bell alone weighing 
 about 2j tons), which split the tower on two sides, causing a fissure of three inches in 
 breadth. The further progress of this impending ruin was checked by the application 
 of cast-iron ties ; imperceptibly encircling each angular pier, as well as the four sides of 
 the tower, secured to octangular rings, ample allowances being provided for changes of 
 temperature." The pinnacles and embattled parapets were rebuilt, also windows in- 
 serted. This restoration was superintended by Mr. George Gwilt, F.S.A., who also, 
 in 1822-24, took down the east end of the church to the clerestory, and gave the pre- 
 sent face to the structure his own design consisting of an enriched gable, with an 
 elaborately foliated cross on its apex ; pinnacled staircase turrets, with niches at the 
 angles ; and a new triple lancet window, in the more florid style of the thirteenth cen- 
 tury, instead of the original window of five lights (temp. Henry VII.); besides a Catherine- 
 wheel window, of extraordinary richness and beauty. Over the vaulting a cast-iron 
 roof was erected, and covered with copper; and the piers of the flying buttresses on 
 each side were cased with stone, the aisle windows built anew, &c. ; in all which Mr. 
 Gwilt has rigidly adhered to the former work, " not only in the general design, but 
 in the minutest details, wherever prototypes could be found." In 1829-30, the 
 transepts were restored from the designs of R. Wallace, architect ; groined roofs were 
 added ; and in the south was introduced a circular window, designed from that in the 
 ruins of Winchester Palace, Bankside, discovered through a fire in 1814. In the north 
 transept has been inserted a window of circular tracery, in the style of Westminster 
 Abbey ; but the side windows, originally of beautiful length, have been injudiciously 
 shortened. Within, the transepts present a beautiful vista, second only to the choir. 
 The four magnificent arches which support the tower remain unaltered. 
 
 The Lady Chapel was used by Bishop Gardiner as a Consistorial Court in the reign 
 of Queen Mary. In 1555, a commission sat here for the trial of heretics, Bishop 
 Hooper and John Rogers being the first victims to the stake ; but within four years, 
 the Popish vestments were sold for the repairs of the church, and next the valuable 
 Latin records of the Priory were burnt as superstitious remains of Popery. The Lady 
 Chapel was restored in 1832, by public subscription, at the expense of 4027/. 19*. Id., 
 Mr. G. Gwilt giving his gratuitous superintendence as architect. It possesses the sin- 
 gularity of four gables, which has a very beautiful effect. The groined roof of the 
 Lady Chapel is very fine. Here is the marble tomb of Lancelot Andrewes, Bishop of 
 Winchester, with his full-length effigies, formerly in the Bishop's Chapel, where also
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 201 
 
 his leaden coffin was found. Some stained-glass windows, in memory of Protestant 
 martyrs, have been put up in the Lady Chapel, and are effective as seen from the choir. 
 The Nave, it is believed, the oldest part of the structure, was, in 1839, taken down 
 within 7 feet of the ground, and was sold for 150 guineas ! by order of vestry 
 the Organ being then moved up to form a temporary end to the Choir. The roof of the 
 nave had wooden bosses, sculptured with grotesque heads, shields, dragons, flowers, 
 fruits, &c. The trusses of the roof had knees, springing from stone corbels, carved 
 into winged angels, bearing shields painted with various colours. The roof of each 
 aisle was groined and ribbed, with bosses at the intersections. The timber roof of the 
 nave was a fine specimen of carpentry, said to have been put up by Bishop Fox (temp. 
 Edward IV.) At the west end were Tudor doorways, to let down tapestry on high 
 festivals over the walls. In the ruined nave have been found a semicircular-headed 
 door and some other portions of the Norman church ; and a semicircular apse at the 
 north-east corner of the vestry, formerly St. John's Chapel, was brought to light. 
 These fragments, together with some ether remains, would seem to show that the 
 church of the date of 1106 was situated on the north side of the present Choir. Thus 
 dismantled stood the roofless walls, and the massive Tudor doorway at the west end, 
 until, in 1838-9, the Nave was rebuilt for Divine Service in poor, incongruous style; 
 and being separated from the Choir, St. Saviour's now presents the anomalous appear- 
 ance of two churches in one ; but had the Nave been restored according to the ancient 
 example, the groined roof of the church would exhibit an uninterrupted perspective of 
 208 feet. The most picturesque views are from the clerestory vaultings of the Choir. 
 The commonplace oak and plaster of the last century have been removed from the 
 eastern end, thus unveiling the stone altar-screen, a beautiful composition of niches, 
 &c. ; and which, from its resembling that in Winchester Cathedral, and bearing Bishop 
 Fox's device of the pelican feeding her young, is inferred to be his workmanship : it 
 was restored in 1833, at the cost of 700Z. 
 
 " In the fifteenth century, sculpture and painting lent their aid to complete and embellish this sump- 
 tuous display of architecture. Upon the altar and under the central canopy, in the first range, stood 
 the crucifix ; the large niche above was appropriated to the statue of the Blessed Virgin, the patroness 
 of the church ; and the corresponding niche in the upper range we may as confidently assign to the 
 representation of the sacred Trinity ; the minor niches might be occupied by the sainted bishops of the 
 see. Above the whole, the design was carried on in the painted glass of the east window, inclosed as 
 it were in a richly sculptured frame : in this perfect state, what a magnificent scene was displayed in the 
 Choir !" E. J. Carlos, Gentleman's Magazine, Feb. 1834. 
 
 The church is very rich in painted sculpture tombs. In the south transept is the 
 Perpendicular monument of the poet Gower, removed from the north aisle of the nave 
 in 1832, when it was restored and coloured at the expense of the first Duke of 
 Sutherland, a presumed collateral descendant from the poet.* Here Gower and his 
 wife are buried ; the poet beneath the above monument, triple canopied, and richly 
 dight with gold and colour inscription, with the recumbent effigies of Gower in prayer : 
 his hair auburn, and long to the shoulders, and a small forked beard ; on his head a 
 purple and gold rose fillet, with the words, " Merci Ihu ;" a habit of purple, damasked, 
 clown to his feet ; a collar of esses, gold, about his neck ; his head resting upon three 
 gilded volumes, the " Speculum Meditantis," " Vox Clamantis," and " Confcssio 
 Amantis ;" on the wall at his feet are his arms, and a hat or helmet, with a red hood, 
 ermined, and surmounted by his crest a dog. Opposite Gower"s tomb is the coloured 
 bust of John Bingham, saddler to Queen Elizabeth and James I. In the north 
 transept is a richly-painted, carved, and gilt monument, with angels, rocks, suns, and 
 serpents, to William Austen, Esq., who wrote a poem of " Meditations." Next lies 
 Dr. Lockyer, the empiric (temp. Charles II.), his reclining effigies in thick curled wig 
 and furred gown : 
 
 " His virtues and his pills are so well known, 
 That envy can't confine them under stone." Epitaph. 
 
 * " We are afraid, on the showing of Sir H. Nicolas and Dr. Pauli, that the family of the Duke of 
 Sutherland and Lord Ellesmere must relinquish all pretension to being related to, or even descended 
 from, John Gower. They have hitherto depended solely upon the possession of a MS. of the Confestio 
 Amantii, which was supposed to have been presented to an ancestor by the poet ; but it now turns out, 
 on the authority of Sir Charles Young, Garter, that it was the very copy of the work which the author 
 laid at the feet of King Henry IV., while he was yet Harry of Hereford, Lancaster, and Derby !" 
 Eeview of Dr. Pauli's edition of the Confessio Amantis ; Athenaum, No. 1537, p. 468. Baker is the only 
 Chronicler who gives the date of Cower* s death correctly, namely, 1408, as in his Will ; most if not 
 all other writers represent Gower as dying in 1402 or 1403.
 
 202 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 In the north aisle is the monument to John Trehearne, gentleman-porter to James I., 
 with the costumed bust of himself and wife. Opposite is the tomb of Alderman 
 Humble (temp. James I.), with kneeling figures of himself and his two wives, and 
 representations of their children; and an inscription, slightly varied from a poem 
 attributed to Francis Quarles, commencing 
 
 " Like to the damask rose you see.' 
 
 Here, too, is an oaken effigy, supposed of one of the Norman knights, founders of the 
 church ; and near it is the figure of an emaciated man, wrapped in a shroud, and finely 
 sculptured. The burial register records, under 1607, " Edmond Shakespeare, a player, 
 in the church," the great dramatist's brother, and who, doubtless, was followed to the ' 
 grave by Mm as chief mourner ; under 1625 is " Mr. John Fletcher, a man, in the 
 church" (Beaumont and Fletcher) ; and Philip Massinger, " a stranger," in the church- 
 yard, 1638-9. Beneath a gravestone in the Choir lies Sir John Shorter, who died 
 Lord Mayor, in 1688 ; and his wife, who died in 1703 : he was the grandfather of 
 Lady Walpole, wife of Sir Robert, and mother of Horace Walpole. 
 
 In the church was married, in 1406, Edmund Holland, last Earl of Kent, Lord 
 Admiral of England, and grandson of the Fair Maid of Kent, to Lucia, eldest daughter 
 of Barnaby, Lord of Milan : King Henry IV. gave away the bride at the church-door. 
 
 Here, on the termination of his sentence, the Rev. Dr. Sacheverel preached in 
 1713, on the Christian Triumph, or Duty of Praying for Enemies j and the booksellers 
 gave him 100Z. for the sermon. 
 
 The tower has a fine peal of twelve bells, and in the belfry are recorded exploits 
 performed upon them by the College and Cumberland Youths; though these 
 bells were not rung at the opening of London Bridge, in 1831, from the alleged in- 
 security to the masonry. The clock, put up in 1795, has a dial 31 feet in circum- 
 ference ; length of minute-hand, 5 feet ; circumference of bell, 11 feet 6 inches. The 
 tower, east end, and Lady Chapel, originally concealed by the west side of the old High- 
 street, were opened to view in forming the approaches to New London Bridge, thus 
 presenting, perhaps, the finest architectural group in the metropolis : its restoration in 
 the present century has cost above 60,000. 
 
 ST. SEPTJLCHBE'S, anciently " in the Bailey," at the east end of Skinner-street, and 
 adjacent to Newgate, was damaged in the Great Fire, which just reached Pye Corner, 
 northward of the church. It was rebuilt about the middle of the fifteenth century. 
 The south-west entrance-porch, resembling a transept, has a groined roof, with bold 
 ribs and beautifully-sculptured bosses; adjoining is an ancient chapel, erected by the 
 Popham family. The body of the church was refitted by Wren after the Fire. The 
 Organ, one of the largest and finest in London, was built by Harris, second only to 
 Schmidt, in 1677, and has been enlarged ; the pedal organ, with ten stops, or fourteen 
 ranks of pipes throughout, is unequalled in England. St. Sepulchre's was, in New- 
 court's time, " remarkable for possessing an exceedingly fine Organ, and the playing is 
 thought so beautiful that large congregations are attracted, though some of the 
 parishioners object to the mode of performing Divine service." The pulpit has a 
 sounding-board, like a parabolic reflector, with ribs of mahogany, the grain radiating 
 from the centre. Among the monuments is that of Capt. John Smith, Governor of 
 Virginia, and a romantic traveller (d. 1631) : his eccentric epitaph, recorded by Strype, 
 has disappeared. The benefactions to the parish include that of Mr. Richard Dowe, 
 who left a hand-bell, to be rung, with certain forms, to the condemned criminals in 
 Newgate, and on their way to Tyburn for execution, when it was also customary to 
 present a nosegay to each. St. Sepulchre's tower, " one of the most ancient in the 
 outline in the circuit of London " (Malcolm), has four pinnacles with vanes, rebuilt 
 1630-33, and is 140 feet high : it has a fine peal of ten bells ; the clock regulates the 
 hanging of criminals at Newgate. " Unreasonable people," says Howell, " are as hard 
 to reconcile as the vanes of St. Sepulchre's tower, which never looked all four upon one 
 point of the heavens." On April 10, 1600, one William Dorrington threw himself 
 from the roof of this tower, leaving there a written prayer for forgiveness. 
 
 On St. Paul's Day, service is performed in the church in accordance with the will of Mr. PaulJervis, 
 who in 1717, devised certain land iu trust, that a Sermon should be preached in the church upon every 
 Paul's Day, upon the excellence of the Liturgy of the Church of England; the preacher to receive 40*.
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 203 
 
 for such sermon. Various sums are also bequeathed to the Curate, the Clerk, the Treasurer, and 
 Masters of the parochial schools. To the poor of the parish he bequeathed 20*. a-piece to ten of the 
 poorest housekeepers within that part of the parish of St. Sepulchre commonly called Smithfield 
 quarter; 41. to the Treasurer of St. Bartholomew's Hospital; and 6*. 8d. yearly to the Clerk, who shall 
 attend to receive the same. The residue of the yearly rents and profits is to be distributed unto and 
 amongst such poor peopleof the parish of St. Sepulchre, London, who shall attend the service and sermon. 
 At the close of the service, the Vestry Clerk reads aloud an extract from the Will, and then proceeds to 
 the distribution of the money. In the evening the Vicar, Churchwardens, and Common Councilmen of 
 the Precinct, dine together. 
 
 ST. SIMON'S, Moore-street, Chelsea, J. Peacock, architect, is of Gothic design, 
 cruciform, with an interior of some polychromatic display, by means of coloured 
 marble shafts ; and it has a very large east window of five lights, filled with stained 
 glass : completed 1859. 
 
 ST. STEPHEN'S, Coleman-street, was destroyed by the Great Fire, and rebuilt by 
 Wren, as we now see it, with a tower and bell-turret 65 feet high. Among the monu- 
 ments is a marble bas-relief, by E. W. Wyon, erected in 1847, to the Rev. Josiah 
 Pratt, Vicar of the parish, whose missionary labours are personified by the Angel of 
 the Gospel addressing an African, Hindoo, and New Zealander. A curious square oak 
 carving, about 5 feet by 2^, in alto-relief, is inserted over the gateway of St. Stephen's, 
 which Mr. George Scharf thus describes : 
 
 " From the two upper corners seems to hang a festoon of clouds, upon which in the centre, the 
 Saviour is seated in cumbrous drapery, holding the banner of Redemption in the right hand, and the 
 ball and cross in the left ; the significant action of the Judge is, therefore, entirely lost. He has a large 
 beard and rough hair, but no nimbus. 
 
 " Immediately beneath the Saviour, in front of the clouds, Satan is falling. He is represented 
 of a slim human form, with hideous face, horns and bats' wings: his feet are tied together ! The 
 entire space below is filled with the dead all entirely naked issuing from their coffins, which are 
 shaped like those now in use. At each end some figures are seen issuing from caverns. The central 
 figures below are large, fat children; but otherwise there is no distinction of age or sex. One angel, to 
 the left of the Saviour, sounds the trumpet. 
 
 " There are no musical instruments nor indications of entrance to the places of final reward. The 
 Book of Life also is not represented. The remaining space within the line of clouds is filled with winged 
 angels, many of them exceedingly graceful, busied in assisting the aspirants to heaven by reaching 
 their hands over the clouds. Many of the figures, in their excitement, seem ready to scale the walls 
 of heaven ; but the treatment of the whole is very unworthy of the subject. As a piece of carving it is 
 remarkably good, and superior to that over the lich-gate of St. Giles's." Archceologia, vol. xxxvi. p. 
 3S9. See ST. GILES'S-IN-THE- FIELDS, p. 165. 
 
 In the old church was buried Master Antony Munday, who wrote a continuation of 
 Stow's Survey, and for more than forty years arranged the City pageants and shows. 
 Of this parish John Hay ward was under-sexton during the Great Plague, when he 
 carried the dead to their graves, and fetched the bodies with the Dead Cart and Bell, 
 yet " never had the distemper at all, but lived about twenty years after it." (See 
 Defoe's Memoirs.) 
 
 ST. STEPHEN'S THE MABTYE, Avenue-road, Portland-town, 5s a large Decorated 
 church, by Daukes, with a tower and spire 136 feet high ; towards building whicn 
 two individuals gave 100(M. each ; the freehold of the site and 50(W. being also given 
 by the Duke of Portland. 
 
 ST. STEPHEN'S THE MAETTE, Rochester-row, Westminster, is a stately church, built 
 and endowed at the sole cost of Miss Burdett Coutts, as a memorial to her patriotic 
 father, Sir Francis Burdett, Bart., M.P. for Westminster thirty years. The site was 
 presented by the Dean and Chapter of Westminster, and is nearly opposite the Alms- 
 houses founded by Emery Hill in 1674. The first stone of the church was laid by 
 Miss Coutts, July 20, 1847 ; it was consecrated June 20, 1850. The style is the 
 Decorated, of the reigns of the first three Edwards ; and the architect, Ferrey. The 
 church consists of a Nave with aisles, and a Chancel ; and on the north side a massive 
 tower and spire, 200 feet high, with a peal of eight bells by Mears ; all the windows 
 are richly traceried. Tiie Chancel ceiling is coloured blue, powdered with gold stars ; 
 the walls are decorated with texts ; and the reredos is of the Canterbury diaper, picked 
 out in gold and colour : the altar-cloth was presented by the Duke of Wellington, and 
 the chancel carpet was wrought in Berlin work by forty ladies of rank, the border by 
 the girls of St. Stephen's Schools; the design consists of shields and heraldic devices 
 and panels of the fleur-de-lis and Tudor rose, within a Tudor rose border. The Organ, 
 by Hill, has a screen of diapered pipes, and cost 800 guineas. The nave and aisle roofs
 
 204 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 are of oak ; and the arcade rests upon clustered shafts, with sculptured capitals. The 
 pulpit is of stone, and enriched with tracery ; and the font is sculptured with Scripture 
 subjects. The windows are filled with stained glass, by Wailes, and Powell's stamped 
 quarries. The stalls and seats are of oak, and for about 900 persons : in the chancel 
 is a handsome corona of gas-burners and candlesticks. Adjoining are Schools, of very 
 picturesque design, also by Ferrey. By an Order in Council, in the Gazette, April 9, 
 1856, no one is to be buried in St. Stephen's Church besides Miss Coutts and Mrs. 
 Brown (widow of Mr. Brown, who is already buried there) ; and their bodies are to be 
 imbedded " in a layer of powdered charcoal, six inches at least in thickness, and be 
 separately entombed in brickwork well cemented." 
 
 ST. STEPHEN'S, Spitalfields, E. Christian, architect, on the east side of Commercial- 
 street, was completed in 1862. It is of yellow brick, with red and black bricks, 
 sparingly introduced ; its distinctive feature being the apse, which, instead of serving 
 as the chancel, as is usual, is placed at the west-end of the nave a fashion borrowed, 
 with some other features, from Germany. Beside it is a parsonage, as quaint as the 
 church. The interior of the church is an exact square, without the apse. The walls 
 are plastered, but the piers and arches are faced with red and white bricks. 
 
 ST. STEPHEN'S, Walbrook, is the third church of that name and locality : the first, 
 according to Dugdale, stood on the west side of the " Brook ;" the second, built in 
 1428, on the east side, was destroyed by the Great Fire ; and the present church, 
 Cinque-cento style, was built upon the same site, 1672-79, from the designs of Wren, at 
 a salary of 1001. a year ; and the parish accounts show that a hogshead, of claret was 
 presented to the architect, and twenty guineas to his lady. The exterior is plain : 
 tower and spire 128 feet high. The interior is one of Wren's finest works, with its 
 exquisitely-proportioned Corinthian columns, and great central dome of timber and 
 lead, resting upon a circle of light arches springing from column to column ; its 
 enriched Composite cornice, the shields of the spandrels, and the palm-branches and 
 rosettes of the dome- coffers, are very beautiful ; and as you enter from the dark vesti- 
 bule, a halo of dazzling light flashes upon the eye through the central aperture of the 
 cupola. The fittings are of oak : and the altar -screen, Organ-case, and gallery, have 
 some good carvings, among which are prominent the arms of the Grocers' Company, 
 the patrons of the living, and who gave the handsome wainscoting. The carved pulpit 
 has festoons of fruit and flowers, and canopied sounding-board, with angels bearing 
 wreaths. The church was cleansed and repaired in 1850, when West's painting of 
 the Martyrdom of St. Stephens, presented in 1779 by the then Rector, Dr. Wilson, 
 was removed from over the altar and placed on the north wall of the church. The 
 large east window, painted by Willement, represents the ordination and death of tLe 
 proto-martyr, to whom the church is dedicated : the other windows, by Gibbs, are a 
 memorial to the late rector, Dr. Croly, the eloquent poet and imaginative prose- 
 writer, whose bust by Behnes, and monument by Philip, are here. In a niche is also 
 placed a bust of the architect of St. Stephen's, Sir Christopher Wren. There are four 
 large windows, two at either end of the church, and thirteen smaller ones. The sub- 
 jects of the large windows at the west end of the church are the Nativity and Baptism 
 of Christ ; at the east end, the Crucifixion and Ascension. The small windows at the 
 north side are illustrative of the Parables of our Lord : the Sower, Good Samaritan, 
 Prodigal Son, Dives and Lazarus, Pharisee and Publican, the Ten Virgins, and the 
 Good Shepherd. On the south side, the miracles represented are Turning Water 
 into Wine, Raising Jairus's Daughter, Restoring the Blind to Sight, Feeding the 
 Five Thousand, the Pool of Bethesda, and Christ Walking on the Sea. The Organ 
 was built by England, and is very sweet-toned ; the case harmonizes with the 
 beautiful architecture of the church. 
 
 This church, unquestionably elegant, has been overpraised. The rich dome is considered by John 
 Carter to be Wren's attempt to " set up a dome, a comparative imitation (though on a diminutive scale) 
 of the Pantheon at Rome, and which, no doubt, was a kind of probationary trial previous to his gisrantie 
 operation of fixing one on his octangular superstructure in the centre of his new St. Paul's." Mr. J. 
 Gwilt says of St. Stephen's : " Compared with any other church of nearly the same magnitude, Italy 
 cannot exhibit its equal ; elsewhere its rival is not to be found. Of those worthy notice, the Zitelle at 
 Venice (by Palladio), is the nearest approximation in regard to size, but it ranks far below our church 
 in point of composition, and still lower in point of effect." Again: " Had its materials and volume
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 205 
 
 been as durable and extensive as those of St. Paul's Cathedral, Sir Christopher Wren had consummated 
 (in St. Stephen's) a much more efficient monument to his well-earned fame than that fabric affords." 
 
 St. Stephen's serves also for the parish of St. Bennet Sherehog. Upon the north side 
 of Pancras-lane is a small enclosed piece of ground, and upon a stone on an adjoining 
 house is inscribed, " Before the dreadful fire, anno 1666, here stood the parish church 
 St. Benuet Sherehog." 
 
 Pendleton, the celebrated Vicar of Bray, known by his multiversations, subsequently became rector 
 of St. Stephen's, Walbrook. It is related that in the reign of Edward VI., Lawrence Sanders, the martyr, 
 an honest but mild and timorous man, stated to Pendleton his fears that he had not strength of mind 
 to endure the persecution of the times ; and was answered by Pendleton that " he would see every drop 
 of his fat and the last morsel of his flesh consumed to ashes ere he would swerve from the faith then 
 established." He, however, changed with the times, saved his fat and his flesh, and became rector of 
 St. Stephen's, whilst the mild and diffident Sanders was burnt in Smithfield, 
 
 The oldest monument in the church is that of John Lilburne : Sir John Vanbrugh, 
 the wit and architect, is buried here, in the family vault. During the repairs in 1850, 
 it is stated that 4000 coffins were found beneath the church ; they were covered with 
 brickwork and concrete to prevent the escape of 'noxious effluvia. 
 
 ST. SWITHIN'S, LONDON STONE, Cannon-street, was destroyed by the Great Fire, 
 and rebuilt by Wren, in 1680, as we now see it. It has a tower and spire 150 feet 
 high ; but is chiefly remarkable for having against its outer south wall, within a modern 
 stone case, all that remains of the ancient " London Stone," a Roman miliarium. 
 Before it was removed from the opposite side of Cannon-street it was well secured, for 
 Sir John Fielding, in his London and Westminster, 1776, tells us, " it was fixed so 
 very deep in the ground, and was so thoroughly fastened by bars of iron, that the most 
 ponderous carriages could do it no injury." 
 
 TEMPLE CHTTECH (St. Mary's), in the rear of the south side of Fleet-street, was the 
 church of the Knights Templars after their removal from their chief house on the site 
 of old Southampton House, without Holborn-bars.* It consists of " the Round," 
 built in 1185, and consecrated by Heraclius, Patriarch of Jerusalem, some two cen- 
 turies, or nearly so, before the addition of the Gothic Latin Chapel of the time of 
 Edward II., as erected by the Knights of St. John after the expulsion of the Templars. 
 The inscription (from the Saxon) beneath the western entrance is : 
 
 " Ab incarnatione Domini MCLXXXV., dedicata hsec ecclesia in honore beatse Marise, a domino 
 EEACLIO, Dei gratia Sanctse Resurrectionis ecclesiaj patriarcha, IV. idus Febroarii, qui earn anna- 
 tun petentibus de injuncta sibi penitentia LX. dies indulsit." 
 
 This is one of the four circular churches built in England after the Templars' return 
 from the first and second Crusades; the other three existing at Cambridge, Northampton ; 
 and Maplestead, in Essex. The architecture is midway between Romanesque and Early 
 English Gothic : the western entrance semicircular arches and capitals are richly sculp- 
 tured and deeply recessed ; within, Purbeck marble columns, with boldly -sculptured 
 capitals, support a gallery or triforium of interlaced Norman arches ; a-nd the clerestory 
 has six Romanesque windows, one filled with stained glass, bright ruby ground, with 
 a representation of Christ, and emblems of the Evangelists ; and the ceiling, cf Sara- 
 cenic character, is coloui ed. On the gallery well-staircase is a " penitential cell," 
 The arcade in the aisle beneath has sculptured heads of astonishing variety, copies exe- 
 cuted by Sir R. Smirke in 1827 ; and here are pointed arches with Norman billets. 
 Upon the pavement are figures of Crusaders, " in cross-legged effigy devoutly stretched," 
 but originally placed upon altar-tombs and pedestals. 
 
 These effigies of feudal warriors are sculptured out of freestone. The attitudes of all are different, 
 but they are all recumbent with the legs crossed. They are in complete mail with surcoats ; one only 
 is bare-headed, and has the cowl of a monk. The shields are of the heater or Norman shape, but the 
 size is not the same in all ; one of them is very long, and reaches from the shoulder to the middle of 
 the leg. Their heads, with one exception, repose on cushions, and have hoods of mail. Three of them 
 have flattish helmets over the armour, and one has a sort of casque. They have been well restored by 
 Mr. Richardson. The best authorities assign five of them as follow : to Geoffry de Hagnaville, Earl of 
 
 *In the rear of the house No. 322, High Holborn, is a room or hall, for some unexplained reason, 
 called " the chapel :" it has a finely panelled oak ceiling, about A.D. 1500; a large window opening, 
 and a pointed doorway, now filled up. A few yards westward may be traced the position of the Round 
 Church of the Templars, which they possessed previous to the erection of the present Temple Church 
 in Fleet-street. Stow relates that adjoining the old Temple Church was the inn of the Bishop of Lin- 
 coln ; and afterwards a house belonging to the Earl of Southampton, to which the room in question 
 appears to pertain. J. Wykeham Archer, 1850,
 
 206 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Essex, A.D. 1141 (right arm on his breast and large sword at his right) he is not mentioned by 
 Weever; William Mareschall, Earl of Pembroke, A.D. 1219 (sculptured in Sussex marble, with his 
 sword through a lion's head) ; Robert Lord de Ros, A.D. 1245 (head uncovered, with long flowing 
 hair), whose effigy is said to have been brought from Helmsley Church, Yorkshire ; William Mareschall, 
 junior, Earl of Pembroke, 1231 (with lion rampant on shield, and sheathing his sword); Gilbert 
 Mareschall, Earl of Pembroke, 1281 (drawing his sword, winged dragon at feet). A Glance at the 
 Temple Church, by Henry Cole. See also Richardson's Illustrations, 1845. 
 
 In 1841 were discovered the ancient lead coffins containing the bodies of these knights, who did 
 not appear to have been buried in their armour; and none of the coffin ornaments were of earlier date 
 than the beginning of the 13th century. 
 
 There has also been found in the Church an early inscribed monument, upon which Mr. W. S. 
 Walford has succeeded in deciphering the name of Philip de St. Hilaire, who was of a Norman family, 
 allied with the Clares and the Earl of Arundel at the close of the twelfth century; and the name has 
 been found by Mr. Watertou among the Knights Templars of the century. 
 
 In the Temple Round, lawyers received clients as merchants on 'Change : 
 " Retain all sorts of witnesses, 
 That ply i' the Temple under trees ; 
 Or walk the Round with Knights o' the Posts, 
 About the cross-legg'd knights, their hosts." Hudilrat, pt. iii. c. 3. 
 
 Dugdale says : " Item, they (the lawyers) have no place to walk in and confer their 
 learnings but the church; which place all the term-times hath in it no more quietness 
 than the Pervise of Paules, by occasion of the confluence and concourse of such as are 
 suitors in the law." " The Bound" is the nave or vestibule to the oblong portion, which 
 is the Choir, in pure Lancet style, almost rebuilt in the restorations and alterations in 
 1839-42 by Savage and Sydney Smirke. The groined roof, richly coloured in ara- 
 besque, and ornamented with holy emblems, is rendered very effective by the floods of 
 light from the triple lancet-headed windows. 
 
 The Temple Church Organ has a strange history. It was built late in the reign of 
 Charles II. by competition. First was set up an organ by Schmidt, when Dr. Blow and 
 Purcell, then in their prime, performed on the instrument on appointed days, to dis- 
 play its excellence. Another organ was built in a different part of the church, by 
 Harris, who employed Sully, organist to Queen Catharine, to touch this organ, which 
 brought it in favour ; and the rival organs competed for nearly a year. At length, 
 Harris challenged Schmidt to make additional reed-stops in a given time; these were the 
 vox humana, Cremorne, the double-cartel, or double-bassoon, and some others ; and 
 these stops, which were new to English ears, delighted the crowd at the trial. At 
 length, Judge Jefferies, of the Inner Temple, terminated the controversy in favour of 
 Schmidt ; and Harris's Organ was removed. The partisanship ran so high, that, accord- 
 ing to the Hon. Boger North, " in the night preceding the last trial of the reed-stops, 
 the friends of Harris cut the bellows of Smith's organ in such a manner that when the 
 time came for playing upon it, no wind could be conveyed into the wind-chest." 
 
 The Temple Organ is considered Schmidt's masterpiece, and though additions have been made by 
 Byfleld, and by Bishop, it retains all the original pipes in great organ and choir organ. The swell was 
 constructed by Byfleld, and perhaps still contains the pipes of the original also. This organ is remark- 
 able for possessing quarter-tones, so that there is a difference of tone between G sharp and A flat, and 
 also between D sharp and E flat. Originally this arrangement occurred only in the choir organ and 
 great organ : and it seems to have been introduced either as an object of curiosity, or to render it in 
 some way more perfect than its rival, since probably Harris was unprepared for the novel contrivance. 
 (See A short Account of Organs built in England, 1847.) This organ is a grand instrument, but far too 
 large for the church. The Musical Service here is very fine. 
 
 In the little vestry beneath the Organ-gallery is a marble tablet to Oliver Gold- 
 smith, buried in the ground east of the choir, April 9, 1774. The choir-stalls and 
 benches are beautifully carved ha oak from ancient examples : the altar is new, in the 
 style of Edward I., and contains five canopied panels, gilt and illuminated ; here are an 
 ambry, piscina, and sacrarium or tabernacle for the Eucharist ; and behind the altar 
 are three ancient niches for sacred utensils. On the south is the monumental effigies 
 of a bishop in pontificals, supposed to be that of Silverston de Eversdon, Bishop of 
 Carlisle, d. 1255, and buried here. To the left is a white marble tomb over the re- 
 mains of the learned Selden, d. 1654, in Whitefriars ; his funeral sermon was preached 
 by Archbishop Ussher. In the triforium are the tombs of Plowden, the jurist; Howell, 
 writer of the Familiar Letters ; and Edmund Gibbon, an ancestor of the historian : 
 the views of the church from this gallery are very picturesque. Here are also several 
 memorials of eminent lawyers ; and among them, a marble bust, by Bossi, of Lord 
 Chancellor Thurlow (d. 1806). On the south wall is a tablet to Ann Littleton (d. 
 1623), daughter-in-law to Sir Edward Littleton, with a quaint epitaph, ending
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 207 
 
 " Keep well this pawn, thou marble chest; 
 Till it be called for, let it rest: 
 For while this jewel here is set, 
 The grave is but a cabinet." 
 
 It is mentioned in Dugdale's Monasticon that both King Henry II. and his Queen 
 Eleanor directed that their bodies should be interred within the walls of the Temple 
 Chapel, and that the above monarch by his Will left 500 marks for that purpose. The 
 walls are inscribed with Scripture texts in Latin ; and between the top of the stalls and 
 the string-course beneath the windows, is the Hymn of St. Ambrose. The windows, 
 by Willement, are among the finest specimens of modern stained glass : the altar sub- 
 jects are from the life of Christ, the interspaces being deep-blue and ruby mosaic, with 
 glittering borders. Knights Templars fill the aisle windows; but that opposite the 
 organ has figures of angels playing musical instruments. 
 
 A brief history of the Templars in England and of this church may be read in the rude effigies of 
 the successive kings during whose reigns they flourished, now painted on the west end of the chancel. 
 At the south corner sits Henry I. (A.D. 1128), holding the first banner of the Crusaders, half black, half 
 white, entitled "Beauseant;" white typifying fairness towards friends; black, terror to foes. This 
 banner was changed during the reign of Stephen (A.D. 1116) for the red cross : 
 " And on Ms brest a bloodie crosse he bore, 
 
 The deare remembrance of his dying Lord." 
 
 Henry II. and the Round Church are represented by the third figure. Richard I., with the sword which, 
 he elded as Crusader, and John, his brother, are the next kings; and in the north aisle is portrayed 
 He III., holding the two churches ; the chancel, or square part, having been added in his reign, and 
 con~ ed on Ascension-day, 1210. Cole's Glance at the Temple Church. 
 
 Exteri. 'ly, the east end has three high gables, with crosses ; and the bell is hung in a 
 new stone turret on the north side. The church has been thrown open to view ; and 
 in removing the house over the porch, a western wheel-window was exposed in the 
 Gorman Round. T ' groined western Norman porch has been restored, and covered 
 with a leaded gable rt '. The renovated ashlar-work has been carried throughout the 
 Round; a new cone or '^ire has been ^laced on the top, in place of the former roof, 
 dormer lights introduced, and the spl terminated in a large metal gilt vane a 
 strictly medieval bird. By the te -re*- . buildings, a sort of new location is given 
 to the Norman Round and porch, ana ,. ken^grassy churchyard with its ancient 
 
 tombs. These works are by S. Smirke an , 'y iby*v During their progress, the 
 dust and bones of the learned John Selden were " c.iricd away .md shot into a dust- 
 hole." Opposite the bell-turret, in the burial-ground, was found a decayed blue flag or 
 slate ledger-stone, inscribed with uncial letters, ending DEKT, which slab was once laid 
 over the remains of Selden, whose dust and remains were ignomimously treated as 
 above by the workmen. This is remarkable, seeing that, according to Aubrey, at the 
 time of the interment of Selden, no pains seem to have been spared to render the deposi- 
 tory secure. Aubrey tells us : 
 
 " His (Selden' s) grave was ten foot deep or better, walled up a good way with brick, of which also 
 the bottome was paved, but the sides of the bottome for about two feet high were of black polished 
 marble, wherein his coffin (covered with black bays) lyeth, and upon that wall of marble was presently 
 lett downe a huge black marble stone of great thickness with this inscription : ' His jacet corpus 
 Johannis Selden, qui obiit die Novembris, 1654.' Over this was turned an arch of brick (for the 
 House would not give their ground), and upon that was throwne the earth, &c. Letter to The Timei, 
 late in 1864. 
 
 North-east of the Choir is the house of the Master of the Temple, as the preacher at 
 the church is called : it is fronted by a garden, beneath which is the Benchers' Vault. 
 One of the most learned Masters was Hooker, author of the Ecclesiastical Polity ; 
 another eminent Master was Sherlock, afterwards Bishop of London. 
 
 The Offertory alms are distributed to the poor, chiefly old servants of the Temple, at 
 Midsummer and Christmas. 
 
 In March, 1862, at a short distance south of the Round of the church were exca- 
 vated some pillars and part of the basement of St. Anne's Chapel, which connected 
 the convent of the Temple with the church. This chapel was taken down hi 1827 : 
 here Almeric de Montfort, the Pope's chaplain, who had been imprisoned by Edward I., 
 was set at liberty at the instance of the Roman Pontiff. 
 
 ST. THOMAS THE APOSTLE stood in Knightrider-street. It was an endowment of 
 the Canons of St. Paul's, and is spoken of so early as 1181. Sir Win. Littlebury, 
 alias Horn (so named, saith Stow, by King Edward IV., because he was an excellent
 
 208 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 blower on the horn), was buried here. He bequeathed his house, called the George, in 
 Bread-street, to find a priest for the sanctuary, who was to have a stipend of 61. 13s. 4d. 
 yearly ; also to every preacher at Paul's-cross and the Spittle, 4=d. for ever ; to the 
 prisoners at Newgate, &c., 10s. at Christmas and Easter, for ever, which legacies were 
 soon forgotten. He further gave four new bells to the church, and 500 marks towards 
 repairing the highways between London and Cambridge. His house, garden, &c., to 
 be sold and bestowed in charity, " as his executors would answer before God." The 
 church of St. Thomas the Apostle was destroyed in the Great Fire, and was not rebuilt. 
 
 ST. THOMAS, CHAETEBHOTTSE, Goswell-street-road, a brick church in the Anglo- 
 Norman style, was designed by E. Blore, and consecrated 1842. A portion is set 
 apart for the Brethren of the Charterhouse. 
 
 ST. THOMAS'S, Southwark, in St. Thomas's-street, was originally the church of the 
 Monastery or Hospital of St. Thomas, but was made parochial after the Dissolution : 
 in 1702 it was rebuilt of brick, with a square tower, closely resembling that of the 
 former church. The Register records the marriage, Jan. 27, 1613, of the father 
 and mother of John Evelyn. Johnson, the younger, the sculptor of the Stratford 
 bust of Shakspeare, is ascertained, by Cunningham and Halliwell, to have lived in this 
 parish. 
 
 TEINITT, HOLT, Bessborough Gardens, close to Vauxhall Bridge, a district church of 
 St. Margaret's and St. John's, Westminster, was erected at the sole expense of Arch- 
 deacon Bentinck, Prebendary of Westminster ; the foundation-stone was laid by Mrs. 
 Bentinck, Nov. 8, 1849, on which day also was founded another church, in Great Peter- 
 street, in the same parish. Holy Trinity Church is designed in the Early Decorated 
 style (temp. Edward I. and II.) : at the intersection of the four arms rises an enriched 
 tower and spire, 193 feet high : the east-end window of seven lights is large and fine. 
 The church has been decorated and furnished by subscription. 
 
 TEHTITY, HOLY, Bishop's-road, Paddington, a Perpendicular church, built by Cundy 
 in 1844-6; it has a richly crocketed spire and pinnacled tower, 219 feet high, and a 
 magnificent stained chancel-window : the crypt is on a level with the roofs of the 
 houses in Belgrave-square. 
 
 TRINITY, HOLY, Brompton, a church in the Early English style, by Donaldson ; 
 with a lofty tower, and stained glass of ancient design and colour ; consecrated 1829. 
 It occupies, with the burial-ground, the site of a nursery-garden ; here flowers and 
 funereal shrubs decorate the graves. John Reeve, the comic actor, is buried here. 
 
 TBINITY, HOLY, Hartland-road, Haverstock-hill, is a district church of St. Pancras, 
 and was consecrated 1850. It is built in the Middle Pointed style, Wyatt and Brandon, 
 architects, and consists of a Nave, with north and south aisles, Chancel, and tower 
 and spire 160 feet high ; the chancel is novel, the arches producing an elegant play 
 of lines. 
 
 TEINITY, Gray's-inn-road, district church of St. Andrew's, Holborn, designed by 
 Pennethorne, was built in 1837-8 : it has a pedimented centre, and belfry with cupola 
 roof and cross, and catacombs beneath for 1000 bodies. Adjoining is the old burial- 
 ground of St. Andrew's, its crowded graves interspersed with trees and shrubs. 
 
 TEINITY, Albany -street, Marylebone, designed by Soane, R.A., in classic taste, has the 
 first story of the tower of beautiful design ; but the second puny, owing to lack of 
 funds. The basement has spacious catacombs. 
 
 TEINITY, HOLY, Minories, was originally the church of the Priory of the Holy Trinity, 
 founded by Matilda, Queen of Henry I., in 1108. The church was without the walls 
 of London, and escaped the Great Fire ; but becoming insecure, it was taken down 
 and rebuilt in 1706 ; the font was taken from the old church ; a spring in Haydon- 
 square was the Priory fountain. It is stated by Strype, that Trinity pretended to 
 privileges, as " marrying without a license." In the Chancel is the tomb of the loyal 
 William Legge, who bore the touching message of Charles I. from the scaffold to his 
 son, the Prince of Wales, enjoining him to " remember the faithfullest servant ever 
 prince had." Here, too, is buried Legge's son, the first Earl of Dartmouth ; and his
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 209 
 
 grandson, the second Earl ; and annotator of Burnet. Some bones from the battle- 
 field of Culloden are deposited in the churchyard, bearing date 1745. 
 
 ST. VEDAST'S, Foster-lane, destroyed by the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren, has 
 an original and graceful spire, in three stories. The interior has a ceiling enriched 
 with wreaths of flowers, and fruits, and foliage ; and a carved oak altar-piece, with 
 winged figures, palm-branches, a pelican, &c. In the vestry -room is a print of " West 
 Cheap " in 1585, with the church of St. Michael on the north side of Paternoster. row, 
 the burial-place of the antiquary, Leland (d. 1552). "The only church clock in London 
 or, perhaps, the kingdom without a face, is St. Vedast's, Foster-lane, at the back 
 of the Post-Office, which strikes on a small shrill bell, supernumerary to the peal 
 of six." 
 
 TOWEES AND SPIRES. The Churches of London give much beauty to every view of 
 the metropolis, and have, moreover, many valuable and interesting associations. In 
 the " Union of Benefices Act is nothing that shall authorize the pulling down the 
 churches of St. Stephen, Walbrook ; St. Martin, Ludgate ; St. Peter, Cornhill ; and 
 St. Swithin, Cannon-street." To preserve the other works of this class, a meeting was 
 held on the top of St. Paul's, at which six architects examined the various towers and 
 steeples, with the view of saying which should be preserved. The sight was wonderful, 
 and those present found few spires to the destruction of which they were willing to 
 assent. A memorial was agreed on, and, being signed by the President of the Institute of 
 Architects and members of the Council, presented to the House of Commons, praying that 
 the following towers and steeples be added to those exempted from destruction, namely : 
 
 Saint Alban's, Wood-street; Allhallows, Bread-street; Allhallows, Lombard-street; Allhallows, 
 Thames-street; Saint Andrew's, Holborn ; Saint Antholin's, Watling-street ; Saint Augustine's, Wat- 
 ling-street ; Saint Bartholomew's the Great ; Saint Beuet's, Thames-street ; Saint Bride's, Fleet-street ; 
 Christchurch, Newgate-street; Saint Dionis* Backchurch; Saint Dunstan's hi the East; Saint Dun- 
 stan's in the West ; Saint Edmund the King's ; Saint George's, Botolph-lane ; Saint Giles's, Cripplegate; 
 Saint James's, Garlick-hill ; Saint Lawrence's, Jewry ; Saint Magnus's, London Bridge ; Saint Mar- 
 garet's, Lothbury ; Saint Margaret Pattens' ; Saint Mary Abehurch ; Saint Mary Aldermary ; Saint 
 Mary's-le-Bow ; Saint Mary's, Somerset ; Saint Mary Magdalen's, Old Fish-street-hill ; Saint Michael's, 
 Cornhill; St. Michael's, Queenhithe; Saint Michael's Royal; Saint Mildred's, Bread-street; Saint 
 Mildred's, Poultry ; Saint Sepulchre's ; Saint Vedast's, Foster-lane. 
 
 According to Mackeson's trustworthy Guide to the Churches of London and its 
 Suburbs, 1866, their entire number is 368. 
 
 EPISCOPAL CHAPELS. 
 
 ASYLUM (FEMALE ORPHAN) CHAPEL, Westminster-road, Lambeth, was built for 
 the Charity, established 1758, at the suggestion of Sir John Fielding, the police- 
 magistrate. The chapel service was rendered attractive by the singing of the Orphan 
 children, and by popular preachers, thus contributing to the support of the institution 
 by a collection. The Asylum was rebuilt in the country, in 1866, with the chapel, 
 when the premises in Westminster-road were taken down. 
 
 ST. BARTHOLOMEW'S, Kingsland, was an ancient and picturesque wayside chapel, 
 near the toll-gate, and taken down in 1846. Its walls were of flint and rubble, the 
 window -frames of stone, in the Perpendicular style, and in the roof was a wooden 
 bell-turret. It was originally the chapel of a hospital or house of lepers, called " Le 
 Lokas," and was long an appendage to St. Bartholomew's Hospital, to which it was a 
 kind of outer ward till 1761, when the patients were removed from Kingsland, 
 and the site let for building. Upon the petition of the neighbouring inhabitants, the 
 chapel was repaired, and service performed there, the chaplain being appointed by the 
 governors of St. Bartholomew's. It was so small as scarcely to contain 50 persons. 
 It is engraved in Archer's Vestiges of Old London, part i. 1850. 
 
 BEDFORDBTJRY CHAPEL AND SCHOOL. Bedfordbury is a harrow street running 
 out of New-street, Covent Garden, to Chandos-street, and was built about 1637. On 
 the west side of this, a compound edifice, part chapel, part school, has been erected 
 the school-room placed over the chapel ; and opened (not consecrated) with an after- 
 noon service, Dr. Tait, Bishop of London, preaching. The site is about 60 feet by 40 
 feet. The building is entered from Bedfordbury, through a small gabled tower. The
 
 210 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 doorway has an arched head, the tympanum being filled with sculpture representing 
 " The Good Shepherd." The chapel consists of a Nave and south aisle, a small Chancel 
 raised two steps, and a sacrarium one step higher. The material employed, inside and 
 out, is brick, relieved with bands of red. The nave is divided from the aisle by a 
 brick arcade, carried on Bath stone columns with carved capitals. The arch to the 
 sacrarium is carried on small columns of slate with carved capitals and corbels. The 
 sacrarium is decorated in a somewhat novel manner in sgrafito. There is a credence 
 table and a reredos, in stone, alabaster, and marble, by Earp, who executed all the 
 carving ; the east window, of five lights, is filled with stained glass : the other windows 
 are filled with rough plate-glass (not in quarries). Light is admitted, too, by dormers 
 in the south aisle. The ceiling is boarded, and separated into compartments by the 
 girders which carry the floor of the school-room. A harmonium has been presented 
 to the chapel by Lady Overstone. The building, exclusive of the site, cost 23001., 
 raised by subscription, headed by the Queen and Prince Albert, 2501. ; Miss Burdett 
 Coutts, 300Z. ; architect, A. W. Blomfield. 
 
 BENTINCK CHAPEL, Chapel-street, New-road, was built in 1772, and opened by the 
 Kev. Mr. Hunt, father of the originator of the Examiner newspaper. The Rev. 
 Basil Woodd was minister of this chapel 45 years. 
 
 CHAELOTTE CHAPEL, Charlotte-street, Buckingham-gate, was built in 1776 for " the 
 unfortunate Dr. Dodd," who laid the first stone in July. " Great success attended the 
 undertaking," writes Dodd ; " it pleased and it elated me." In the following year, 
 June 27, Dodd was hanged at Tyburn for forgery. Charlotte Chapel, now St. Peter's, 
 was also occupied by Dr. Dillon ; it was refitted in 1850. 
 
 DITKE-STEEET CHAPEL, Westminster, was originally the north wing of the house 
 built for Lord Jeiferies, Lord Chancellor to King James II., who permitted a flight of 
 stone steps to be made thence into St. James's-park, for Jefferies's special accommoda- 
 tion : they terminate above in a small court, on three sides of which stands the once 
 costly mansion. One portion of it was used as an Admiralty House, until that office 
 was removed by William III. to Wallingford House. The north wing (in which 
 Jefleries transacted his judicial business out of term) was formed into a chapel in 1769, 
 with a daily service ; Dr. Pettingale, the antiquary, was for some time incumbent. 
 See Walcott's Westminster, p. 72. 
 
 HOSPITAL CHAPEL, Gnilford-street, was designed by Jacobson, in 
 1747, and built by subscription, to which George II. contributed 3000Z. Handel gave 
 the large profits of a performance of his music ; and his Messiah, performed in the 
 chapel for several years under his superintendence, produced the Charity 7000/. At 
 the west end of the edifice are seated the children and the choir ; and in the centre 
 is the Organ, given by Handel : the altar-piece, " Christ presenting a little Child," is 
 by West, who retouched the picture in 1816. Several blind " foundlings," instructed 
 in music, by their singing, greatly added to the funds of the Charity, by pew-rents 
 and contributions at the doors, and for several years the latter exceeded 1000Z. ; the 
 net proceeds of the chapel have been stated at 687?. the year, after paying the profes- 
 sional choir. Beneath the chapel are stone catacombs : the first person buried here was 
 Captain Coram, the founder of the Hospital. Lord Chief-Justice Tenterden is interred 
 here ; and his marble bust is placed in the eastern entrance to the chapel. Children 
 who died in the Hospital were formerly buried in the churchyard of St. Pancras. 
 When the Rev. Sidney Smith came to London, in 1804, he was elected one of the 
 chaplains to the Foundling Hospital, where his sermons were very attractive, espe- 
 cially those on the objects of the Charity, so often misunderstood and misrepresented. The 
 chaplain's salary was but 50Z. a-year. Mr. Smith resided in Doughty-street, and here 
 he early obtained the "acquaintance and friendship of several eminent lawyers in that 
 neighbourhood ; the most distinguished of whom were Sir Samuel Romilly, Mr. Scarlett 
 (Lord Abinger), and Sir James Mackintosh. To these may be added Dr. Marcet, 
 M. Dumont, Mr. Whishaw, Mr. R. Sharpe, Mr. Rogers, &c. Mr. Smith likewise 
 officiated at Berkeley Chapel, May -fair; and at Fitzroy Chapel. Lives of Wits and 
 Humourists, vol. ii. pp. 216-219. 1862.
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 211 
 
 GBAY'S-INN CHAPEL, on the south side of Gray's-inn-square, on the site of a chapel 
 built long anterior to the Eeformation, has special seats assigned to the Benchers, 
 Barristers, and Students, and others unappropriated. It has been much modernized. 
 Here are three good windows by Gibbs, on the north side : 1. Christ in the Temple, in 
 the midst of the Doctors. 2. Christ delivering the Sermon on the Mount. 3. The 
 Ascension. These windows were presented by Samuel Turner, Esq., one of the 
 Benchers, and Dean of the chapel, 1862. In the east window are the arms of the 
 various prelates who have been either honorary Members or Benchers of the Society. 
 A new Organ was set up in 1863. The sermons are preceded by "the Bidding 
 Prayer." The Oifertory is dispensed to the poor of the Inn. The music is chiefly 
 from the old English masters, sung by the choir, established 1850. There do not 
 appear to be any records of the Preachers earlier than 1574, when Mr. W. Cherke, or 
 Charke, was appointed : he was afterwards Preacher of Lincoln's-inn and Fellow of 
 Eton. There have been 23 preachers since his day, among whom were Dr. Roger 
 Fenton, one of the translators of the Bible ; Dr. Richard Sibbes, the celebrated Puritan, 
 author of the Bruised Reed ; Dean Nicholas Bernard, Chaplain to Oliver Cromwell, 
 and one of his almoners; Bishop Wilkins, the mathematician; Archbishop Wake; 
 Dean Robert Moss; Archdeacon Stebbing; Bishop Walker King; Dr. Matthew 
 Raine, Head-master of Charterhouse School; and Dr. George Sheppard, an elegant 
 and sound scholar, who died in 1849. He was succeeded by the Rev. Dr. Hessey, 
 Head-master of Merchant Tailors' School, &c., the present preacher. 
 
 GEOSYEXOE CHAPEL, South Audley-street, contains in its vault the remains of 
 Ambrose Philips, the Whig poet, whom Pope ridiculed, but Tickell, Warton, and 
 Goldsmith eulogized; of Lady Mary Wortley Montague; and John Wilkes, cha- 
 racteristically designated by himself on a tablet as " a Friend to Liberty." 
 
 HAHOVEE CHAPEL, Regent-street, between Prince's and Hanover-streets, was built 
 in 1823-28, C. R. Cockerell, R.A., architect, and is of the Ionic order of the Temple 
 of Minerva Polias at Priene : it has a well-proportioned portico extending across the 
 footpath, and picturesquely breaking the street-line; two square turrets, of less 
 felicitous design, finish the elevation. The interior is square, and mostly lighted by a 
 large glazed cupola, surmounted with a cross ; and the arrangement generally 
 resembles that of St. Stephen's, Walbrook : the altar-piece is a splendid composi- 
 tion of imitative antique marbles, enriched with passion-flowers and lilies, superbly 
 coloured. 
 
 HorsE OF CHAEITT CHAPEL, Greek-street, Soho, was built in 1863, from designs 
 by Joseph Clarke, F.S.A., and intended for the Wardens, Sisters, Council, and Associates, 
 together with the inmates of the Hospital, known as the House of Charity. 
 
 The chapel has been built on the type of the early apsidal churches, with round aisles. The chapel 
 of St. Croix, attached to the Abbey of Mount Majour, furnished the idea of the applicability of apsidal 
 aisles as beinp specially adapted to the requirements of the House. The original arrangement of the 
 plan was Basilican. The bema containing the Bishop's chair, with the Clergy round the altar, with the 
 retable behind, standing in advance on the chord of the arc. The two apsidal divisions on each side 
 of the chapel, as aisles, are for the inmates for the women on the north side and the men on the south, 
 the easternmost apses being for communicants. The centre of the chapel, which has a lofty iron fleche, 
 besides the celebrants, is occupied by the Associated Members, and there are grilles on either side, as 
 parcloses to ante-chapels from the nature of the ground could not be provided. The chapel is closed 
 from the western narthex by wronght-iron gates, and the narthex (which serves as the entrance 
 from those three) being closed, becomes available on festivals. The chapel has been erected with much 
 care, both as regards solidity and polychromatic eifect. The walls are built in a variety of stones, com- 
 bined with reference to colour, and are lined internally with chalk as a vehicle of future frescoes. The roofs 
 and all the woodwork are of oak. The floor of the sacrarium with the marble steps is very striking. The 
 altar is of oak, the retable of stone, with the super-altar of marble. The ordinary hangings of the altar 
 are exquisitely wrought by the ladies who undertook this costly work. The needlework of the sedilia, the 
 steps, the Bishop's chair in applique, are equally worthy of the offering. Mr. Arthur O'Connor, an 
 Associate, executed the painted glass with which the whole chapel is filled. Round the chapels and 
 the bema are low stone seats, with the stall or chair for the Bishop, as visitor, at the extreme end of the 
 latter. The Choir and Clergy have oak stalls set on the paving, with chairs for the Council, Associates, 
 and inmates. The chapel is open to Rose-street, with a low wall in front. The entrance into the 
 interior quadrangle, and to the chapel, is through a covered passage at the west end ; and ultimately 
 the chapel will form one side of this court, with a covered way round. 
 
 The House of Charity was originally established in 1846, at a house in Rose-street, 
 for affording gratuitous temporary board and lodging to deserving persons, who, by 
 
 P 2
 
 212 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 such afflictions as the death of parents, husband, or employer, are brought almost to 
 the verge of destitution. The house, No. 1, Greek-street, where the institution is 
 now located, was the town residence of Alderman Beckford, the father of the builder 
 of Fonthill Abbey : it is a fine house, and in the requisite alterations its elaborate 
 plaster ceilings, carved chimney-pieces, and wainscot panelling, have been preserved. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S CHAPEL, Hampstead-road, is a chapel-of-ease to St. James's, West- 
 minster. In the burial-ground adjoining lie George Morland, the painter (d. 
 1804), and his wife; John Hoppner, the portrait-painter (d. 1810); and, without a 
 memorial, Lord George Gordon, the leader of the Riots of 1780, who died in New- 
 gate in 1793. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S CHAPEL, Pentonville, is a chapel-of-ease to St. James's, Clerkenwell, 
 and was built by T. Hardwick. Here is interred R. P. Bonington, the landscape- 
 painter (d. 1828) ; and in the burial-ground lies poor Tom Dibdin, the playwright, 
 close by the grave of his friend, Joseph Grimaldi, " Old Joe," the famous clown, 
 who died in 1837. 
 
 ST. JOHN'S CHAPEL, Bedford-row, at the corner of Chapel-street and Great James- 
 street, was the frequent scene of schism from its first erection for Dr. Sacheverell : it 
 was subsequently occupied by the Rev. Mr. Cecil (Low Church) ; by the Rev. Dr. 
 Dillon, of unenviable notoriety ; the Rev. Daniel Wilson (Bishop of Calcutta) ; the 
 Rev. Mr. Sibthorp, given to change ; and by the Hon. and Rev. Baptist Noel, who 
 after 22 years' ministry, preached his farewell sermon here, Dec. 3, 1848 ; and on 
 Aug. 9, 1849, was publicly baptized in John-street Chapel, of which he became 
 minister. St. John's has been altered and enlarged, and re-opened in 1866. 
 
 KENTISH TOWN CHAPEL, or district church, is a spacious and costly edifice in the 
 Early Decorated style; Bartholomew, architect. It has two lofty steeples, and a 
 large painted altar-window ; and four smaller windows, inscribed with the Decalogue, 
 Creed, &c., within sacramental borders of corn and vines ; the altar recess has some 
 good sculpture. 
 
 KING'S COLLEGE CHAPEL, Strand, is of Romanesque design, G. G. Scott, architect : 
 the choir consists of students, and of boys on the foundation as " Choral Exhibitioners." 
 
 ST. JOHN'S-WOOD CHAPEL, north-west of the Regent's-park, is of the Ionic order, 
 and was designed by T. Hardwick : it has a tetrastyle portico, and a tower, surmounted 
 with a Roman-Doric lantern. Here, or in the adjoining cemetery, which is taste- 
 fully planted with trees and shrubs, are buried John Farquhar, Esq., of Fonthill 
 Abbey, Wilts, with a medallion portrait ; Richard Brothers, " the prophet ;" Tred- 
 gold, the engineer; Joanna Southcott, "the prophetess," with prophetic quotations 
 from Scripture, in gilt letters upon black marble ; John Jackson, R.A., the portrait- 
 painter, &c. " About 40,000 persons lie interred in this cemetery." (Smith's Mary- 
 lebone, 1833.) 
 
 LAMB'S CHAPEL was originally founded in the reign of Edward I., in the hermitage 
 of St. James's-in-the-Wall, which was a cell to the Abbey of Gerendon, in Leicester- 
 shire, certain monks of which were appointed chaplains here ; on which account, and 
 a well belonging to them, called Monks' Well, the street was called Monkswell-street. 
 The chapel of St. James, with its appurtenances, was granted by Henry VIII. to 
 William Lamb, one of the gentlemen of his chapel, and a citizen and clothworker, 
 who gave it to the Clothworkers' Company ; they have four sermons preached to them 
 annually, and after the sermon, relieve, with clothing and money, twelve poor men, 
 and as many poor women. Lamb's Chapel (the ancient Hermitage Chapel) contained 
 a Qne old bust of the founder, in his livery-gown, placed here in 1612, with a purse in 
 one hand and his gloves in the other ; and in the windows were paintings of St. James 
 the Apostle, St. Peter, St. Matthew, and St. Matthias. The chapel was noted for many 
 private marriages. Beneath the old chapel was a crypt, with Saxon or Norman 
 capitals ; and upon this crypt the chapel and almshouses were re-built in 1825, Angell, 
 architect ; style, Elizabethan. The bust of Lamb, painted in colours, is in the 
 west wall.
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 213 
 
 LEADENHALL CHAPEL, built within the precincts of Leadenhall by Sir Simon 
 Eyre, in 1417, some time an upholsterer, was fair and large, and over the porch was 
 written " Dextra Domini exaltavit me." He gave 3000 marks to the Drapers' Com- 
 pany, that Divine service might be kept up for ever ; but his munificent bequests were 
 not carried out as they should have been. 
 
 LINCOLN'S-I>'N CHAPEL, one of " the Old Buildings," was built in 1621-23 : Dr. 
 Donne laid the first stone, and preached the consecration sermon, the old chapel being 
 then in a ruinous condition. Inigo Jones was the architect of the new chapel, as 
 stated in the print by Vertue, in 1751 : it stands upon an open crypt or cloister, in 
 which the students of the Inn met and conferred, and received their clients. Pepys 
 records his going to Lincoln's-inn, " to walk under the chapel, by agreement." It is 
 now enclosed with iron railings, and was used as a burial-place for the Benchers. The 
 chapel has side windows and intervening buttresses, style, temp. Edward III.; the 
 large eastern window has a beantifuDy traceried circle, divided into twelve trefoiled 
 lights. At the south-west angle is a turret with cupola and vane, and containing 
 an ancient bell, traditionally brought from Spain about 1596, among the spoils acquired 
 by the gallant Earl of Essex at the capture of Cadiz. The ascent to the chapel is by 
 a flight of steps, under an archway and porch, the latter built by Hardwick in 1843. 
 The windows are filled with glass, unusually fine : those on the sides have figures of 
 prophets and apostles, by Flemish artists ; the great eastern and western windows have 
 armorial embellishments. The carved oaken seats are of the time of James I., but 
 the pulpit is later. The Organ, by Flight and Robson (1820), is of great power and 
 sweetness of tone ; and the choral service is attentively performed. In the porch is a 
 cenotaph, with Latin inscription, to the Right Hon. Spencer Perceval ; and on the 
 ascent to the chapel is a marble tablet to Eleanora Louisa (d. 1837), daughter of Lord 
 Brougham (a Bencher of Lincoln's-inn), with a poetic inscription, in Latin, by the 
 celebrated Marquis Wellesley, written in his 81st year. Among the remarkable persons 
 buried in the cloister under the chapel are John Thurloe, Secretary of State to Oliver 
 Cromwell ; and William Prynne, who preserved many of our public records. In the 
 list of preachers in this chapel are the great names of Gataker, Donne, Ussher, Tillotson, 
 Warburton, Hurd, Heber, J. S. M. Anderson, &c. Here are delivered annually the 
 Warburtonian Lectures. (Selected principally from a carefully-written account of 
 Lincoln's-inn and Us Library, by W. H. Spilsbury, Librarian. 1850.) 
 
 ST. LUKE'S CHAPEL, Consumption Hospital, Fulham-road, built at the cost of 
 Sir Henry Foulis, Bart., in* memory of a deceased sister ; consecrated June, 1850 ; 
 styTe, Early English, E. B. Lamb, architect. It is exclusively for the officers and 
 patients of the Consumption Hospital. The chapel, the details of which are very elegant, 
 consists of a Nave, north and south transeptal projections, and a Chancel ; and is con- 
 nected with the Hospital by a corridor, externally ornamented with pinnacled but- 
 tresses and gable crosses, and an octagonal bell-turret. The Organ, by Holdich, is 
 unique. The windows are traceried, and filled with stained glass ; the roof is open 
 timbered ; the Chancel has florid sedilia of stone, and is separated from the nave by a 
 low traceried screen. The interior fittings are of oak, some bearing the arms and 
 crest of the founder, heraldically : " Arg. three bay-leaves proper ; crest, a crescent 
 arg. surmounted by a cross sa. ;" the motto is " Je ne change qu'en mourant." The 
 crest has been most frequently used, as applicable to the building " Christianity over- 
 coming Paganism." The floor is partly paved with tiles of armorial patterns. The 
 seats are specially adapted for the patients. This is stated to be the only con- 
 secrated chapel attached to any metropolitan hospital. 
 
 MAGDALEN HOSPITAL CHAPEL, Blackfriars-road, is attractive by the singing of a 
 choir of the reclaimed women. The " Magdalen House" was originally established in 
 Prescot-street, Goodman's- fields, in 1758 ; where Dr. Dodd was chaplain, and rendered 
 great service to the Charity by his eloquent preaching. 
 
 MABGAEET-STEEET CHAPEL, Margaret-street, Cavendish-square, was first converted 
 into a chapel in 1783. Huntington preached here with Lady Huntingdon's people, 
 when he first came to London. In 1833, the minister was the Rev. W. Dodsworth.
 
 214. CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 who has since seceded to the Roman Catholic Church. At Margaret-street may be 
 said to have been the first development of " Puseyism" in the metropolis. In 1842, 
 the chapel was under the direction of the Rev. Frederick Oakeley, a non-resident Fellow 
 of Balliol College, Oxford. 
 
 served to awake the suspicions of the wary; and in conjunction with a course of zealous and earnest 
 preaching, and the self-denying lives of the chief minister and his friends, to persuade the frequenters 
 of the chapel that here, at least, was a true ' Catholic revival,' and that by the multiplication of Margaret 
 Chapels the whole Anglican Establishment might be at length ' un-Protestantized.' To Margaret 
 Chapel also was due no little of that phase of the movement which consisted in the ' adapting" of 
 Catholic books to 'the use of members of the English Church ;' and by the employment of which it has 
 done so much good in preparing the minds of its congregations for the reception of the Catholic faith. 
 This system was soon taken up by no less important a person than Dr. Pusey himself." The Bambler, 
 a Roman Catholic Journal, Feb. 1851. 
 
 In 1845, Mr. Oakeley resigned his license as minister of Margaret Chapel, which then 
 fell to his curate, the Rev. Mr. Richards. Mr. Oakeley subsequently joined the Roman 
 Catholic Church. The chapel in Margaret-street was taken down in 1850 ; the site is 
 included in that of All Saints' Church, described at pp. 146-7. 
 
 ST. MASK'S, North Audley-street, a chapel-of-ease to St. George's, Hanover-square, 
 is of original and not inelegant design, by Gandy Deering, R.A., 1828 ; the order is 
 Ionic from the Erechtheium; the portico has two handsome fluted columns, with an 
 enriched entablature ; and above is a turret of Grecian design, with pierced iron- work 
 sides and pyramidal stone roof, with gilt ball and cross. The entrance is a very good 
 example of the portico in antis, i.e., columns standing in a line, in front, with the 
 outer or projecting ends of the side walls of the chapel. Some of the adjoining houses 
 are in the heavy style of Sir John Vanbrugh. 
 
 ST. MAKE'S CHAPEL, Fulham-road, attached to the National Society's Training 
 College for Schoolmasters, in the Byzantine style j Blore, architect, 1843 ; cruciform in 
 plan, with semicircular eastern end, and twin towers with high-pitched brocJie roofs, resem- 
 bling an early German church. The east end has some stained glass of olden character. 
 It serves as a place of worship for the adjoining district, as well as for the inmates of 
 the College ; and the musical service, including cathedral service and anthems, is by 
 the students ; offertory on Sundays and festivals, to defray the expenses of the chapel. 
 
 PERCY CHAPEL, Charlotte-street, was built by the Rev. Henry Matthew, an early 
 patron of Flaxman (Cunningham). It was the scene of the showy, eloquent preaching 
 of the Rev. Robert Montgomery, author of The Omnipresence of the Deity, a poem. 
 
 ST. PETEE'S EPISCOPAL CHAPEL, Queen-square, Westminster, was originally a royal 
 gift for the special use of the Judges of Westminster, and was frequented by the mem- 
 bers of the Royal Household. In 1840, it was much injured by a fire, which 
 originated in the adjoining mansion of Mr. Hoare ; and the altar-piece, then nearly 
 destroyed, was one of the finest specimens of ancient oak-carving in England. Here 
 have officiated the venerable Romaine, Guun, Basil Woodd, Wilcox, and Shepherd : 
 the latter for fifty years held the chaplaincy, with the lectureship of St. Giles's-in-the- 
 Fields. St. Peter's was, about a hundred and fifty years ago, the chapel of the Spanish 
 Embassy ; and here preached Antonio Gavin, a secular priest, who having been con- 
 verted from Popery to the Church of England, was licensed to officiate in this chapel 
 in the Spanish language, by Dr. Robinson, the Bishop of London ; and sermons in 
 Spanish preached here by Gavin were published. Gent. Mag., Feb. 1827. 
 
 ST. PETER'S (formerly OXFORD) CHAPEL, Vere-street, Oxford-street, designed by 
 Gibbs, was built about 1724, and was once considered the most beautiful edifice of its 
 class in the metropolis. It has a Doric portico and a three-storied steeple. The Duke 
 of Portland was married at this chapel in 1734. The Rev. F. D. Maurice is the in- 
 cumbent. " This is a Government church : the Government collects and reserves the 
 pew-rents, and pays 450Z. to the incumbent. No free seats, no poor, and no district. 
 The offertory alms are paid to the rector of All Souls, Langharn-place." Mackeson's 
 Churches.
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 215 
 
 ST. PHILIP'S CHAPEL, Regent-street, midway between Waterloo-place and Picca- 
 dilly, was built by Repton, and consecrated in 1820. It has a tower copied from the 
 Lantern of Demosthenes at Athens ; and a Doric portico, with sacrificial emblems on 
 the side porticos or wings. 
 
 PORTLAND CHAPEL, now ST. PAUL'S, in Great Portland-street, was built in 1776, 
 on the site of a basin of the Marylebone Waterworks : it was the cause of many fatal 
 accidents, and the scene of as many suicides ; there is a view of the basin engraved by 
 Chatelain. The chapel was not consecrated at the time of its erection ; but Divine 
 Service was performed in it until 1831, when the consecration was performed, and it 
 was dedicated to St. Paul. At the Portland Hotel, north of the chapel, Captain Sir 
 John Ross lodged after his return from the North Polar Expedition, in 1833. 
 
 QUEBEC CHAPEL, Quebec-street, Marylebone, was built in 1788, and is celebrated 
 for its sweet-toned Organ and musical service. The interior of the chapel is described 
 as " a large room with sash-windows." 
 
 RAGGED CHUBCH. In Brewer's-court, Wild-street, exists a ragged church with its 
 affiliated institutions a ragged school, ragged mothers' meeting, and ragged Sunday- 
 school teachers. The congregation meet every Sunday. Their homes are in Lincoln- 
 court, Wild-court, and other dreary bays, into which is washed up the refuse of a 
 London population. Many of them have been for various terms in prison, or in penal 
 servitude. In winter, every hearer receives a loaf of bread on retiring. Some hearers 
 have no coats, some no shirts, and others ragged trousers. They are visited at their 
 homes by the ministers of the Ragged Church during the week ; and on Sunday about 
 a hundred and fifty of them flock to the service and sermon at the church. 
 
 ROLLS CHAPEL is attached to the Rolls House, between 14 and 15, Chancery-lane, 
 and was originally built of flints, with stone finishings, early in the seventeenth cen- 
 tury. Pennant states that it was begun in 1617, and that Dr. Donne preached the 
 consecration sermon. The large west window has some old stained glass, including the 
 arms of Sir Robert Cecil and Sir Harbottle Grimston ; and here are a large Organ, 
 and presses in which the Records are kept. Among the monuments are : to Dr. 
 John Young, Master of the Rolls (temp. Henry VIII.), a recumbent figure, in a long 
 red gown and deep square cap, the face fine ; above, in a recess, is a head of Christ, be- 
 tween two cherubim, in bold relief this tomb is attributed to Torrigiano ; to Lord 
 Kinloss, Master of the Rolls to James I.," reclining figure in a long furred robe, and 
 before him a kneeling figure in armour, supposed his son, killed in a desperate duel 
 with Sir Edward Sackville ; also, kneeling figure in armour of Sir Richard Allington, 
 his wife opposite, and three daughters on a tablet ; and here lies Sir John Trevor, 
 Master of the Rolls (d. 17 17), and other Masters. Bishops Burnet, Atterbury, and 
 Butler, were eloquent preachers at the Rolls' ; and Butler's volume of fifteen sermons 
 delivered here contains the germ of his great work, the Analogy of Religion. Rolls 
 Chapel occupies the site of a house founded by Henry III. for converted Jews, and in 
 1377, annexed by Edward III. to the new office of Custos Rotulorum, or Keeper of the 
 Rolls, who was his chaplain and preacher : in 1837 the estate was vested by Parlia- 
 ment in the Crown, the salary of the Master of the Rolls being fixed at 7000Z. a year 
 in lieu of fines and rents. 
 
 TENISON'S CHAPEL, between Nos. 172 and 174, east side of Regent-street, was 
 founded by Archbishop Tenison, who, in 1700, conveyed to trustees (of whom Sir Isaac 
 Newton was one) this chapel or tabernacle, to be employed as a public chapel or 
 oratory for St. James's parish ; at the same time giving 500/. to be laid out in the pur- 
 chase of houses, lands, or ground-rents. Out of the revenues and the Archbishop's 
 charity were to be provided two preachers for the chapel, and a reader " to say Divine 
 Service every day throughout the year, morning and afternoon;" a clerk to officiate; 
 and schoolmasters to teach without charge poor boys of the parish to read, write, cast 
 accounts, and in five years to assist them in becoming apprentices. There are forty 
 boys on the foundation ; non-foundationers pay 12s. 6d. per quarter : the school is at 
 No. 172, Regent-street. The Archbishop of Canterbury for the time being is visitor of 

 
 216 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 this excellent charity. The chapel was erected in 1702, and was refronted in building 
 Regent-street. 
 
 TEINITY CHAPEL, Conduit-street, now a neat brick edifice, was originally a small 
 wooden room upon wheels, resembling a caravan. Evelyn describes it as " formerly 
 built of timber on Hounslow-heath, by King James for the mass priests, and being 
 begged by Dr. Teuison, rector of St. Martin's, was set up by that public-minded, 
 charitable, and pious man." Pennant writes : 
 
 " The history of Conduit-street Chapel, or Trinity Chapel, is very remarkable. It was originally 
 built of wood by James II., for private mass, and was conveyed on wheels, attendant on its royal masters 
 excursions, or when he attended his army. Among other places, it visited Hounslow-heath, where it 
 continued some time after the Revolution. It was then removed and enlarged by the Rector of the 
 parish of St. Martin's, and placed not far from the spot on which it now stands. Dr. Tenison, when 
 Rector of St. Martin's, got permission of King William to rebuild it; so, after it had made as many 
 journeys as the house of Loretto, it was by Tenison transmuted into a good building of brick, and has 
 rested ever since on the present site." 
 
 TEINITY (HOLT) CHAPEL, Knightsbridge, was formerly attached to a Hospital be- 
 longing to the Dean and Chapter of Westminster. There is, in the British Museum, a 
 grant of James I. providing a supply of spring water from Hyde Park, " by pipe of 
 lead." It has always been traditionally told in Knightsbridge, that during the fatal 
 year of the Plague, 1665, the Hospital was given up to plague patients ; and it is also 
 said that the inclosed spot on the Green was the burial-place of the victims. The 
 chapel is of ancient foundation, and was rebuilt in 1699 ; the front was extended in 
 1789. Many of our readers may possibly remember the quaintly-inscribed stone slabs under 
 the upper windows : one bearing the words, " Rebuilte by Nicho. Birkhead, Gould- 
 smith, of London, Anno Dom. 1699 ;" and the other (the westernmost), " Capella 
 Sanctae Indiuiduse Trinitatis." It was frequently dignified with the name of church. 
 In the list of ministers was the Rev. H. J. Symons, who read the burial service over 
 Sir John Moore at Corunna. He gained the notice of the Duke of York in this pulpit, 
 and quitted it for the Peninsula, with a regiment, to which he was chaplain. The 
 chapel was noted for its irregular marriages ; Shadwell, in his play of The Sullen 
 Lovers, 1668, speaks of " a person at Knightsbridge, that yokes all stray people to- 
 gether ;" and in the O-uardian, No. 14, March 27, 1713, we read of a runaway mar- 
 riage being cele'brated "last night at Knightsbridge." Here Sir Samuel Morland 
 married his fourth wife, who was recommended to him as an heiress, and Morland, 
 being " distracted for want of moneys," was " led as a fool to the stocks, and married 
 a coachman's daughter, not worth a shilling," and whose moral character proved to 
 be none of the purest ; but he got divorced from her. At Trinity Chapel, July 30, 
 1700, Robert Walpole was married to Katharine Shorter, daughter of a Lord 
 Mayor, and mother of Horace Walpole. (See extracts from the Registers, in Me- 
 morials of Knightsbridge, pp. 51-92.) The chapel has been rebuilt; Brandon and 
 Eyton, architects. Its roof is entirely new in its construction, introducing an entire 
 range of clerestory lights on each side, to compensate for the want of lights in the side 
 walls ; the building being adjoined, on each side, by ordinary houses. 
 
 YOEK-STBEET CHAPEL, on the north side of St. James's-square, is a chapel-of-ease to 
 St. James's. In 1815, it was occupied by Swedenborgians. It was originally the 
 chapel of the Spanish Embassy (then at the present No. 7, St. James's-square) ; and the 
 " Tower of Castile," the arms of Spain, appears on the parapet of the front. 
 
 FOREIGN PROTESTANT CHURCHES. 
 
 DUTCH CHURCH, Austin Friars. The German, Dutch, or Flemish Branch was at 
 first composed of the Polish exile Jean & Lasco, and the members of his church at 
 Embden in East Friesland. To these German Protestants were united the Dutch and 
 Flemish refugees ; they are all included in the Charter of Edward VI., as forming one 
 sole nation, Germanorum ; and the church was subsequently known as the Flemish 
 Church. The " Temple du Seigneur Jesus," in Austin Friars, is occupied by the 
 members of the Dutch Church : on its painted windows is inscribed, " Templum Jesu, 
 1550." It originally belonged to the House of Augustine Friars, founded by 
 Humphrey Bohun, Earl of Hereford aryl Essex; it had "a most fine-spired steeple,
 
 CHURCHES FOREIGN PROTESTANT. 217 
 
 small, bigh, and straight." Henry VIII., at the Dissolution, gave away the house 
 and grounds, but reserved the church, which his son, Edward VI., gave to the Dutch 
 or German nation (1550) " to have their service in, for avoiding of all sects of Ana- 
 Baptists, and such like." From that time to this it has continued to that use. The 
 church contains some very good Decorated windows. Strype says : 
 
 " On the west end, over the skreen, is a fair library, inscribed thus : ' Ecclesiae Londino-Belgise 
 Bibliotheca, extructa sumptibus Marije Dubois, 1659." In this library are divers valuable MSS., and 
 letters of Calvin, Peter Martyr, and others, foreign Reformers." The books have been presented to 
 the Library of the Corporation, at Guildhall. 
 
 On July 24, 1850, the tercentenary of the Royal Charter of Edward VI. was solemnly 
 commemorated in this church by a special service, as also in the French Protestant 
 Church hi St. Martin's-le-Grand ; and the members of the consistories of both churches 
 dined together in the evening, and drank "To theinemory of the pious King Edward VI." 
 The present church is the Nave only of the original building, which was granted 
 by Edward VI. to the strangers in London. This contained, also, north and south 
 transepts, choir, chapels of St. John and St. Thomas, chapter-house, cloisters, &c., 
 and there was a remarkable spire, or fibclie, at the intersection of the cross, all of 
 which were destroyed by the Marquis of Winchester, to whom they had been granted 
 at the Reformation. The church was founded upwards of 600 years ago namely, in 
 1253, as an inscription over its western entrance indicates ; but the Nave was erected 
 a century later. " It is," wrote Mr. Gilbert Scott, the architect, " a noble model 
 of a preaching nave, for which purpose it was no doubt specially intended, being 
 of great size and of unusual openness. It is upwards of 150 feet by 80 feet internally, 
 supported by light and lofty pillars, sustaining eighteen arches, and lighted by large 
 and numerous windows with flowing tracery. It is, in fact, a perfect model of what 
 is most practically useful in the nave of a church." In November, 1862, the roofs of 
 the nave and north aisle were almost wholly destroyed by fire, when it was proposed 
 to take down the edifice and erect a small chapel on its site. Mr. Scott, however, 
 showed that the walls and internal stonework could be easily restored, and this has 
 been effected. The roof, which is now of wood, and open and elegant in design, sub- 
 stituting an unsightly flat ceiling, is supported on twenty graceful columns, with 
 arches springing from each pillar, and towards the east end there are six dormers in 
 it, three on each side to light up the chancel. The church consists now, as before, 
 of a lofty nave and two side aisles. Its interior is 136 feet in length, by 80 feet ; the 
 nave is 50 feet high, and each of the side aisles 37 feet. Besides the main or western 
 door, there is a porch at the south side of the building. In addition to the dormers 
 in the roof, the fabric is lighted by eighteen windows, with flowing tracery, including 
 the western window, which, next to that of Westminster-hall, is said to be the largest 
 of any building in London. The tracery in twelve of the windows, which had been 
 wholly destroyed by time and the fire together, is restored in Portland stone. The pre- 
 vailing style of architecture throughout the edifice is pure Gothic. The new Organ, 
 by Hill and Sons, has a magnificent effect in this lofty and almost cathedral edifice. 
 
 FBEXCH. There are in London two branches of the Church of Foreign Protestants 
 founded by Charter of Edward VI., July 24, 1550. The French Branch was at first 
 exclusively composed of the refugees who quitted France before the revocation of the 
 Edict of Nantes.* They first assembled with their German and Dutch brethren in 
 the " Temple du Seigneur Jesus " hi Austin Friars ; but their number having greatly 
 increased, they subsequently met for public worship in the chapel of St. Mary, 
 dependent on the Hospital of St. Antony, in Threadneedle-street, and belonging to 
 the Dean and Chapter of Windsor. This chapel was taken down in 1841, consequent 
 on the fire which destroyed the Royal Exchange ; the congregation having retained 
 almost uninterrupted possession of the site for nearly three centuries. The first church 
 was destroyed in the Great Fire of London, but was speedily rebuilt. The congrega- 
 tion next removed to a new church in St. Martin' s-le- Grand, nearly opposite the 
 General Post-office : this church, designed by Owen, and opened in 1842, is a tasteful 
 
 * The number of French Protestants who took refuge in England after the revocation of the Edict 
 of Nantes is estimated at 80,000. Of these, 13,000 settled in London, in the districts of Long Acre, 
 Seven Dials, Soho, and Spitalfields. At least one-third of these refugees joined the French Church in 
 the years 1686, 1637, and 1683. Manifesto, 1850.
 
 218 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 specimen of Gothic, and has a large east window with flamboyant tracery, flanked by 
 lofty turrets. We may here mention that about a third of the Nantes refugees met 
 in the first church. James II. gave permission for another French church to be founded 
 in London ; in 1688 was opened the Temple de PHopital, in Spitalfields, afterwards 
 the Eglise Neuve. 
 
 During: succeeding reigns, there were established in London alone no less than twenty-two foreign 
 congregations, some of which adopted the Anglican rite, while others preserved the discipline of the 
 Reformed Church of France. In a sermon, preached in the French Church of the Artillery in Spital- 
 fields, in 1782, the preacher lamented that, out of twenty flourishing churches which existed on his 
 arrival, nine had been closed, and others were declining ; while M. Baup, in 1841, mourned that, of 
 these eleven, three only remained. " As our two sisters, the Eglise des Grecs and that of the Quarre", 
 have adopted the Anglican rite, we remain the only representatives in London of the Reformed 
 French churches; while we are also alone, among all the foreign churches in this kingdom, in 
 having, in common with the Dutch Church, preserved our rights to the charter of Edward VI." 
 
 LA SAVOY, Bloomsbury-street, was designed by Ambrose Poynter, and built for the 
 congregation first established in the Savoy : it is in the Gothic style, and has a Pointed 
 gable, and a large Decorated eastern window. 
 
 "In the year 1646, the French Protestant refugees commenced their church services in Pembroke 
 House, near Whitehall. In 1660, the congregation had increased to 2000, with two ministers. 
 Charles II. granted them the use of the Savoy Chapel, in the Strand: they adopted the ritual of 
 the English Church, and received letters-patent from the King, under the title of the French Pro- 
 testant Episcopal Chapel of the Savoy. The congregation increased so rapidly that, in less than 
 twenty years, there were three separate churches the Savoy, the Greek Church in Soho, and a church 
 in Spring Gardens. In 1733, the Savoy Chapel was abandoned for want of funds to repair it; and in 
 1700, the congregation only possessed the Greek Church, in Soho, and after being transferred to a build- 
 ing in Edward-street, Soho, they built the above church in Bloomsbury-street, which was consecrated 
 Tinder the name of St. John, by the Bishop of London, on 22nd of December, 1845. The Two 
 Hundredth Anniversary of the Church was celebrated on the 14th July, 1801." Mackeson's Churches. 
 
 Swiss. There were considerable numbers of Swiss in this country previously to the 
 Rebellion of 1745, when George II. availed himself of the offer of the Swiss to furnish 
 him with a regiment ; the monarch acknowledged this devotion by presenting them 
 with a standard, bearing this inscription : 
 
 "These colours were presented by King George the Second to the Swiss residents in this country, as 
 a mark of the sense which his Majesty was graciously pleased to entertain of the offer made by them 
 of a battalion of 500 men towards the defence of the kingdom oil the occasion of the Rebellion" 
 (Scottish, 1745). 
 
 About 1722, the Swiss, with the approval of George I., granted the ground for 
 building a church near Charing Cross, but they were not sufficiently numerous to raise 
 the funds. But, in 1762, the Swiss having increased in numbers, a congregation of 
 Protestant worshippers met in Castle-street, Holborn, in a building styled the Eglise 
 Helvetique. One of the principal promoters of this church was M. Franfois Justin 
 Vulliamy, a native of Berne, who had settled in London, and became the founder of the 
 house of Vulliamy, in Pall Mall, clockmakers ; there is in the Eglise Suisse a clock 
 given to the church by Francois Vulliamy, above named. On the 27th of June, 1762, 
 M. Buignon preached the inauguration sermon from the text, " It is good for us to be 
 here." The little chapel in Castle-street was so crowded that there was not standing- 
 room. It was a neat building, and cost little more than 1000J. Before the expiry of 
 the lease of the church in Castle-street, in 1770, to endeavour to raise subscriptions 
 and build on lease another church, appeals were made to the Swiss in London, and 
 to all who felt any interest in Switzerland. One curious answer was made to this appeal 
 the present of a " lottery ticket, No. 2110," by a M. des Barres, as his " voluntary 
 subscription to the building of the chapel ;" it is presumed to have turned up a blank. 
 The royal family were memorialized, and a petition in French presented to George III. 
 to aid the fund, but without effect. However, on the 22nd of March, 1775, was laid 
 the first stone of the Eglise Helvetique, in Moor-street, Seven Dials. In this church 
 Protestant service was conducted in the French language till 1855. The Prince of 
 Orange, while an exile in England, owing to the troubles arising out of the French Revo- 
 lution, was a frequent attendant ; and the Swiss congregation subsequently numbered 
 among its occasional worshippers the Princess Charlotte, the daughter of George IV. 
 A tablet which is placed in the present Eglise Suisse explains the interest which her 
 Bx>yal Highness took in the minister and his flock. The former, Alexandre Sterky, 
 who was born in the Canton de Vaud, in 1767, and died in London in 1838, had been 
 French tutor to the Princess. He was the minister of the church for forty-six years. 
 The present church, the Eglise Suisse, Endell-street, was opened in 1855. There are
 
 CHAPELS DISSENTERS'. 219 
 
 some three hundred attendants, about two-thirds of whom are Swiss, or of Swiss 
 origin. The entire service is conducted in French. The singing at the Eglise Suisse 
 is accompanied by an Organ and the whole congregation. Here are preserved the 
 colours presented by George II. 
 
 DISSENTERS' CHAPELS. 
 
 \ LBIOX CHAPEL, Moorgate-street, next to 116, London Wall, designed by Jay, 
 -*- has a pleasing diastyle Ionic portico. It belongs to a United Presbyterian con- 
 gregation. 
 
 BAPTIST CHAPEL, Little Wild-street, Lincoln's-inn-fields : here is annually preached 
 a sermon in commemoration of the Great Storm, Nov. 26, 1703. The preacher in 
 1846, the Rev. C. Woollacott, in describing the damage by the Storm, stated : 
 
 " In London alone, more than 800 houses were laid in ruins, and 2000 stacks of chimneys thrown 
 down. In the country upwards of 400 windmills were either blown down or took fire, by the violence 
 with which their sails were driven round by the wind. In the Xew Forest, 4000 trees were blown down, 
 and more than 19,000 in the same state were counted in the county of Kent. On the sea the ravages of 
 this frightful storm were yet more distressing : 15 ships of the Royal Navy, and more than 300 merchant 
 vessels, were lost, with upwards of 6000 British seamen. The Bdflystone Lighthouse, with its ingenious 
 architect, Mr. Winstanley, was totally destroyed. The Bishop of Bath and Wells and his laoy were 
 killed by the falling of their palace. The sister of the Bishop of London, and many others, lost their 
 lives." 
 
 This annual custom has been observed upwards of a century. The chapel is built upon 
 the site of Weld House and gardens, the mansion of the son of Sir Humphrey Weld, 
 Lord Mayor of London in 1608. It was subsequently let : Ronquillo, the Spanish 
 ambassador, lived here in the time of Charles II. and James II. : and in the anti- 
 Popish riots of the latter reign the house was sacked by the mob, and the ambassador 
 compelled to make his escape at a back door. 
 
 BAPTIST CHAPEL, on the west-side of Bloomsbury -street, was designed by Gibson, 
 and opened Dec. 2, 1848 : it is in elegant Lombardic style ; the central portion has a 
 gable pediment, large wheel-window, flanked by two lofty spires, and is very pic- 
 turesque. It was built by Sir Morton Peto, at the expense of 12,OOOZ., and will hold 
 from 1500 to 2000 persons. South is the French Protestants' Gothic Chapel ; and 
 the tasteless pile to the north is Bedford Chapel. The sole condition which Sir Morton 
 Peto imposed upon the Baptist congregation was that they should repay, at their con- 
 venience, one-third of the expense, which he, on his part, undertook should be laid out in 
 opening another chapel for the denomination in some other part of the town. Sir Morton 
 Peto subsequently purchased the building formerly known as the " Diorama," in the 
 Regent' s-park, and had it converted at his expense into a chapel for the Baptist 
 denomination, by extensive alterations. The roof, for instance, which was a forest 
 of complicated timbers, depended in a great measure for support upon framed parti- 
 tions extending across the building in different directions. All these had of necessity 
 to be removed, and a wrought-iron girder, 84 feet span, was substituted. Upon this 
 girder, directly or indirectly, the whole roof is now supported, leaving the area of the 
 chapel unobstructed. The style of architecture adopted is the Byzantine. 
 
 Among the houses taken down near Bloomsbury-street, and towards the centre of 
 what is now New Oxford-street, stood the Hare and Hounds public-house, a noted 
 resort of the Londoners of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries : till the reign of 
 Charles II. it bore the sign of the Beggar's Bush, when the name was changed, owing 
 to a hunted hare having been caught there, and cooked and eaten in the house. 
 
 BAPTIST CHAPEL, THE, Netting Dale, built in 1863, is a curiosity in its way. It is 
 a slip (eleven bays) of one of the annexes of the International Exhibition Building, 
 1862, reconstructed by Mr. Owen Jones, who has made the interior quite gay by the 
 application of his favourite red, white, and blue to the well-remembered old roof tim- 
 bers, and with greys and yellows and pretty classical borderings round walls and win- 
 dows, brought the whole into harmony, at a trifling expenditure on common distemper 
 colour and stencil patterns. Companion to the Almanac, 1864. 
 
 CALEDOXIAN CHAPEL, Cross- street, Hatton Garden, was the chapel at which the 
 Rev. Edward Irving first preached in the metropolis. 
 
 " Irving's London reputation was made by Canning. Irving removed to London in the year 1822, 
 being then thirty years of age. He came at the invitation of the Caledonian Chapel in Hatton Garden,
 
 220 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 where a small sprinkling of Scotch assembled together. Among these was Sir James Mackintosh, who 
 was especially delighted with one phrase which Irving let fall when he spoke of orphans cast upon ' the 
 fatherhood of God.' One night, hi the House of Commons, he reported the phrase to Canning. The 
 latter was anxious to hear the tartan, and both he and Mackintosh went the following Sunday to the 
 Caledonian Chapel. A few nights afterwards, from the Treasury bench, Canning had to rise, and to make 
 some remarks on clerical affairs. In the course of his speech he referred to the sermon which he heard 
 from Irving's lips as the most eloquent that he had ever listened to. That speech was the making of 
 Irving. All the fashion of London flocked to him. His chapel was crowded to overflowing. His 
 powers grew as encouragement increased, and he rose into notoriety as the greatest pulpit orator of 
 the day." Life of Irving, by Mrs. Oliphant. 
 
 CANONBtrEY CHAPEL, St. Paul's-road, Islington, was built for a congregation of Evan- 
 gelical Nonconformists ; Habershon, architect. The height of the building to the apex 
 of gables is 57 feet; the interior height to lantern, 60 feet; the span of the roof is 66 
 feet. There are transverse arches at the four transepts, and three large windows and 
 eight clerestory windows. 
 
 The London Congregational Chapel Building Society has stated that "The large and rapidly 
 increasing district of Islington has a population of about 110,000, with church and chapel accommodation 
 for less than 30,000; that is, for little more than one-fourth of the population. That the present 
 number of inhabitants is about twice as great as it was fifteen years ago, and, during that period, very 
 little has been done by all religions bodies for providing increased accommodation for public worship. 
 Only one additional chapel has been erected by the Congregationalists for ail additional population of 
 about 55,000 persons." 
 
 CATHOLIC AND APOSTOLIC CHTTECH, Gordon-square, was commenced in the year 1853, 
 for the community who take this title. It was designed by Raphael Brandon, and consists 
 of Chancel (with an eastern chapel, occupying the usual position of a Lady chapel), 
 north chancel aisle (provision is made for a south aisle at some future period), north 
 and south transepts, with lantern at intersection, Nave and aisles. The height from the 
 floor of nave to the ridge is 90 feet. The carving in the chapel is exceedingly well 
 done, especially that in the arches of the last three divisions on the south side of the 
 arcade which encompasses the walls. The Chancel has a stone groined roof, with some 
 excellent carving in the bosses. As an adaptation of the Early English style, this church 
 must be considered one of the most successful modern works. 
 
 CONGREGATIONAL NONCONFORMIST CHTTECH, Kentish Town, designed by Hodge 
 and Butler, and opened in 1848, is in the Ecclesiastical style of the fifteenth century, and 
 has several richly-traceried windows filled with stained glass, including a splendid 
 wheel-window, 15 feet diameter. 
 
 ESSEX-STEEET CHAPEL, Strand, the head-quarters of the Unitarians of the metro- 
 polis, is built upon part of the site of Essex House, taken down in 1774. In a portion 
 of it was kept the Cottonian Library from 1712 to 1730; one of its large apartments 
 was let to Paterson, the auctioneer, and was next hired by the patrons of Mr. Lindsey 
 and Dr. Disney (Unitarians), to preach in. In 1805, on the death of Dr. Disney, Mr. 
 Thomas Belsham removed to Essex-street Chapel from the Gravel-pit congregation at 
 Hackney, where he had succeeded Dr. Priestley. At Essex-street, Belsham continued 
 pastor during the rest of his life, acquiring great popularity by his eloquent and argu- 
 mentative preaching; he died in 1829, aged 80, and was succeeded by the Rev. 
 Thomas Madge. 
 
 HOEBTTBY CHAPEL, Kensington-Park-road, Notting-hill, was built by subscription of 
 the Independent denomination, and opened Sept. 13, 1849. The design, by Tarring, 
 is transition from Early English to Decorated, with a pair of towers and spires ; the 
 principal windows are filled with stained glass. 
 
 INDEPENDENT CHAPEL, Robinson's-row, Kingsland, was built about 1792: here the 
 Rev. John Campbell, the benevolent South-African missionary, was thirty-seven years 
 minister, and is buried ; and a monument to his memory has been erected by his flock. 
 
 JEWIN-STREET CHAPEL, Aldersgate -street, was built in 1808, for a congregation of 
 English Presbyterians, who removed thither from Meeting-House-court, Old Jewry. 
 Among the eminent pastors were the eloquent John Herries ; Dr. Price, F.R.S., the 
 writer on finance ; and Dr. Abraham Rees, editor of the Cyclopcedia with his name. 
 
 MOEAVIAN CHAPEL, Fetter-lane, is the only place of worship belonging to the
 
 CHAPELS DISSENTERS'. 221 
 
 Moravians (United Brethren) in London, by whom it was purchased in 1738, on their 
 settling in England. The interior is remarkably plain, and bespeaks the simple cha- 
 racter of its occupants ; there is a small organ, for they have church music and singing ; 
 there are no pews, but seats for males and females, apart. The chapel is capacious, 
 but the auditory does not exceed from 200 to 300 persons : the support is voluntary. 
 There is a burial-ground for the members, with a small chapel, at Lower Chelsea, 
 near the Clock-house. At Chelsea, in June, 1760, died Count Zinzendorf, who first 
 introduced the Moravians into this country. The chapel in Fetter-lane lies in the rear 
 of the houses, one of the entrances to it being through No. 32 : it was possibly so 
 built for privacy. It escaped the Great Fire of 1666, and was originally occupied by 
 Nonconformists. Turner, who was its first minister, was very active during the Great 
 Plague ; and having been ejected from Sunbury, he continued to preach in Fetter-lane 
 till towards the close of the reign of Charles II. Here also Baxter, the eminent Non- 
 conformist divine, preached after the Indulgence granted in 1672 ; and he held the 
 Friday-morning lectureship until August, 1682. 
 
 NATIONAL SCOTCH CHURCH, Crown-court, Little Russell-street, Covent Garden, has 
 a cement Norman fa9ade, with the staircases effective outside features. The minister 
 is the Rev. Dr. Gumming, who preached before Queen Victoria, at Crathie, Balmoral, 
 Sept. 22, 1850 ; and who ably controverted the claims of Dr. Wiseman the same year. 
 
 OLD GBAYEL-PIT MEETING-HOUSE, Hackney, was built in 1715 : here Dr. Price, 
 F.R.S., and Dr. Priestley were ministers; next Mr. Belsham, the congregation being 
 Anti-Trinitarians ; succeeded by the Rev. Robert Aspland, who remained here till the 
 erection of the New Gravel-pit Meeting-house, " Sacred to one God the Father," in 
 Paradise-fields. 
 
 OXENDON CHAPEL, Haymarket, was built abotit 1675, by Richard Baxter, the Non- 
 conformist divine, in Oxendon-street, on the west side, at the back of the garden-wall 
 of the house of Mr. Secretary Coventry, from whom Coventry -street derives its 
 name. Baxter's principles were so little to the liking of Secretary Coventry, that he 
 instigated the guards of Charles II. to come under the windows and flourish their 
 trumpets and beat their drums whenever Richard preached. Finding that not a word 
 he said could be heard, and that remonstrating with these gentry was dangerous, 
 Baxter sought to dispose of the building. Dr. Lloyd, rector of St. Martin's-in-the- 
 Fields, kindly introduced the affair to the vestry of St. Martin's. By his mediation 
 poor Baxter obtained the handsome rental of 401. per annum for the building from the 
 vestry, and it was forthwith consecrated as a " Tabernacle" to St. Martin's-in-the- 
 Fields. Oxendon Chapel now belongs to the Scotch Secession. 
 
 PRESBYTERIAN DISSENTERS' CHAPEL, Mare-street, Hackney, was established early 
 in the seventeenth century : here Philip Nye and Adoniram Byfield, two eminent 
 Puritan divines, preached in 1636 ; and Dr. W. Bates and Matthew Henry were 
 pastors late in the seventeenth century. The old meeting-house has been taken down, 
 and a new one built opposite, and occupied by Independents. 
 
 PRESBYTERIAN MEETING-HOUSE, Newington-green, established soon after the 
 Restoration, was rebuilt about 1708 : in the list of ministers are Richard Biscoe, Hugh 
 Worthington, M.A., John Hoyle, Dr. Richard Price, F.R.S., Dr. Amory, Dr. Towers, 
 Mr. Lindsey, Dr. Isaac Maddox (afterwards Bishop of Worcester), Thomas Rees ; and 
 Mr. Barbauld, husband of the authoress. 
 
 PROVIDENCE CHAPEL, Little Titchfield-street, Marylebone, was built by a congre- 
 gation of Independents for Huntington, S.S. (" the Coal-heaver," as he called himself), 
 upon his credit with " the Bank of Faith," when he quitted Margaret Chapel : when 
 it was finished, " I was in arrears," says Huntington, " for 1000Z., so that I had plenty 
 of work for faith, if I could but get plenty of faith to work ; and while some deny a 
 Providence, Providence was the only supply I had." This chapel was burnt down, 
 with seven houses adjoining, July 13, 1810, and the site became a timber-yard. 
 
 PROVIDENCE CHAPEL, on the east side of Gray's-Inn-lane, nearly opposite Guilford-
 
 222 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 street, was built for Huntington, S.S., by his flock, after the destruction of the Titch- 
 field-street Chapel : this second edifice he named from the pulpit for these reasons: 
 that " unless God provided men to work, and money to pay them, and materials to 
 work with, no chapel could be erected ; and if He provided all these, Providence must 
 be its name." The chapel was, accordingly, built in Gray's-Inn-lane, and upon a larger 
 scale than the last ; it was made over to him as his own, and bequeathed in his will to 
 his widow, who, however, resigned it to the congregation. It was subsequently 
 altered and opened as an Episcopal Chapel, the Rev. T. Mortimer, B.D., minister. 
 
 REGENT-SQUARE CHAPEL, Gray's-inn-road, was built for the Rev. Edward Irving, 
 in 1824-5, W. Tite, the architect, adapting the west front from York Cathedral : the 
 twin towers are 120 feet in height. Here the " unknown tongues" attracted large 
 and fashionable congregations. 
 
 When the charm of novelty was worn off, the chapel in Cross-street, Hatton Garden, was still 
 insufficient for Mr. Irvine's congregation, and they resolved on the erection of another chapel of larger 
 dimensions. For this purpose 7000/. was in a short time subscribed, and a piece of ground purchased 
 on the south side of Sidmouth-street, Brunswick-square, for the sum of 18001. The Duke of Clarence 
 had undertaken to lay the foundation-stone, but was prevented by illness, and it devolved upon the 
 Earl of Breadalbane. "I undertook to open Irving's new church in London," says Dr. Chalmers. 
 " The congregation, in their eagerness to obtain seats, had already been assembled three hours. Irving 
 said he would assist me by reading a chapter for me. He chose the longest in the Bible, and went on 
 for an hour and a half. On another occasion he offered me the same aid, adding, ' I can be short.' I 
 said, ' How long will it take you ?' ' Only an hour and forty minutes.' " Still Irving drew the crowds. 
 " The excitement which Irving created in London held the throngs together for hours. They were 
 first assembled for hours before he made his appearance, and then they listened to his lofty discourse 
 for hours more. His sermon for the London Missionary Society was three hours long, and he had to 
 take rest twice in the middle of it, asking the congregation each time to sing a hymn." 
 
 SCOTCH CHTJBCH, THE, Swallow-street, Piccadilly, was originally a French Pro- 
 testant Chapel, founded in the year 1692 : it was purchased by James Anderson, and 
 converted into a Presbyterian Meeting-house ; and in the Treasury Crown Lease Book 
 (No. 1, p. 71) will be found a letter from the Surveyor-General, dated 1729, giving a 
 history of the foundation of this church, and Anderson's petition for a lease, which 
 was granted by the Lords of the Treasury ; but the chapel being much out of repair, 
 and the congregation poor, the fine was remitted ; the building was then valued at 
 201. The above document is printed in Notes and Queries, 2nd S., No. 3. The chapel 
 has been rebuilt of red brick, with a low spire. 
 
 SOUTH-PLACE CHAPEL, Finsbury, is of Ionic design, and was built for a Unitarian 
 congregation, under the ministry of Mr. W. J. Fox, the eloquent M.P. for Oldham. 
 
 SPA-FIELDS CHAPEL, Exmouth-street, Spa-fields, though consecrated for " Lady 
 Huntingdon's Connexion," nearly 80 years since, was originally built for, and opened 
 as, a place of public amusement, called the Pantheon, in 1770, in imitation of the Pan- 
 theon in Oxford-road. The Spa-fields building is circular in plan, and had a statue of 
 Fame on the top. The interior had galleries entirely round the whole ; and in the centre 
 was a curious stove, with fire-places all round, from which the smoke was carried off 
 without any chimney, and the building was warmed in the severest weather. There 
 were also a garden, with shrubs and fruit trees, and boxes and tea-rooms for company. 
 Upon the same site was previously the " Ducking Pond House," with a fine view of 
 Hampstead, Highgate, and the adjacent country. The Pantheon lost its character, 
 and was closed in 1776. The pious Selina, Countess of Huntingdon, then proposed to 
 convert the place into a chapel, but was discouraged by Toplady. It was then fitted 
 up, and opened upon Evangelical principles, as Northampton Chapel, and became very 
 popular. In 1779 it was opened " in the Connexion of the Countess of Huntingdon." 
 In 1780, it narrowly escaped being pulled down by the Rioters. The congregation 
 became wealthy and influential : the Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria, often 
 attended here ; the pulpit was for many years supplied with ministers from Cheshunt 
 College. The chapel will hold 2000 persons, and is lighted by a monster ring of gas- 
 jets. Large schools are attached to the chapel. In the large house adjoining, 
 formerly the tea-rooms of the Pantheon, Lady Huntingdon resided twelve years, and 
 here she died in 1791, in her 84th year. She had expended 100,0002. in works of 
 charity : she had founded, wholly or in part, 64 chapels in her connexion. The exten- 
 sive plot of ground in the rear of Spa-fields Chapel became, soon after its opening, a
 
 CHAPELS DISSENTERS'. 223 
 
 burial-place for Nonconformists and others. It contains 42,640 square feet, and would 
 decently inter 1361 adult bodies ; yet within 50 years 80,000 bodies were deposited 
 here, averaging 1500 per annum. To make room, bones and bodies were burnt for 
 upwards of a quarter of a century, to the constant annoyance of the neighbourhood; 
 until, in 1845, the lessees of the ground were indicted, and the pestilential nuisance 
 stopped. This agitation brought about the Abolition of Burials in Towns. (See 
 Pinks's History of Clerkenwell, 1865, pp. 141^151.) The old chapel was noted for 
 the four lofty pillars which supported the roof, they having been presented for the 
 purpose by the States-General of Holland in 1764 ; and being, consequently, a memorial 
 of the friendly intercourse then subsisting between the English Nonconformists and 
 the Dutch. 
 
 STEPNEY MEETING, THE, erected for Congregationalists in 1863, in place of one of 
 the oldest Independent chapels about London, is of Second Pointed Gothic, and of 
 hammered stone in irregular courses, with Bath stone dressings : it has a stone spire, 
 150 feet high, with clustered pinnacles at the base ; and a wheel window with graceful 
 tracery, and filled with stained glass. The roof is high-pitched, curved, and panelled : 
 cost 10,OOOZ. ; architects, Searle, Son, and Yelf. 
 
 SURREY. CHAPEL, corner of Little Charlotte- street, Blackfriars-road, is of octagonal 
 form, and was built in 1783, for a congregation of Calvinistic Dissenters, the Rev. 
 Rowland Hill, pastor, who preached here in the winter season for nearly 50 years : he 
 had a house adjoining, where he died, aged 88, in 1833, and was buried in a vault under 
 the chapel. Adjacent, in Hill-street, are Almshouses for 24 poor widows, built and 
 maintained by the Surrey Chapel congregation. 
 
 SWEDENBORG CHURCH, Argyle-square, King's-cross, was opened Aug. 11, 1844, for 
 the followers of Swedenborg, whither they removed from a small chapel in the City, 
 built about forty years previously. The new church is in the Anglo-Norman style, 
 Hopkins, architect, with two towers and spires, 70 feet high, each terminating with a 
 bronze cross ; the intervening gable has a stone cross, and a wheel window over a 
 deeply-recessed doorway. The interior has a finely-vaulted roof; the altar arrange- 
 ments are peculiar ; and there is an Organ and choir. The founder of the sect of 
 Swedenborgians, the learned Baron Swedenborg, who died in 1772, is buried in the 
 Swedish Church, Prince's-square, Ratcliffe Highway. 
 
 TABERNACLE, THE, in Moorfields, was built in 1752; previously to which, in 1741, 
 shortly after Whitefield's separation from Wesley, some Calvinistic Dissenters raised 
 for Whitefield a large shed near the Foundry, in Moorfields, upon a piece of ground 
 lent for the purpose, until he should return from America. From the temporary 
 nature of the structure it was named, in allusion to the tabernacles of the Israelites in 
 the Wilderness ; and the name became the designation of the chapels of the Calvinistic 
 Methodists generally. Whitefield's first pulpit here is said to have been a grocer's 
 sugar-hogshead, an eccentricity not improbable. In 1752, the wooden building was 
 taken down, the site was leased by the City of London, and the present chapel was 
 built, with a lantern roof : it is now occupied by Independents, and will hold about 
 4000 persons. This chapel was the cradle of Methodism ; the preaching-places had 
 hitherto been Moorfields, Marylebone-fields, and Kennington-common. Silas Todd 
 describes the Tabernacle in Moorfields as "a ruinous place, with an old pantile 
 covering, a few rough deal boards put together to constitute a temporary pulpit, and 
 several other decayed timbers, which composed the whole structure." John Wesley 
 preached here (the Foundry, as it was called), at five in the morning and seven in the 
 evening. The men and women sat apart ; and there were no pews, or difference of 
 benches, or appointed place for any person. At this chapel the first Methodist Society 
 was formed in 1740. 
 
 TABERNACLE, METROPOLITAN, was built for Mr. Spurgeon, upon part of the site of 
 the Fishmongers' Company's Almshouses, at Newington, in 1861. The exterior 
 large hexastyle Corinthian portico, and four angle turrets ; the interior is remarkable 
 for its great size, luminousness it being lighted both from roof and windows and 
 unecclesiastical appearance : it was modelled from the Surrey Music-hall, in which Mr.
 
 224 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Spurgeon for some time carried on his ministration. The ceiling and galleries are 
 supported by thin iron columns, of salmon colour, with gilt capitals j the florid gallery 
 fronts are white and gold. Instead of a pulpit there are two raised platforms with 
 balconies ; from the upper one the minister, with his church officers sitting around 
 him, preaches and conducts the service. The chapel will hold 6500. 
 
 TBINITY INDEPENDENTS' CHAPEL, East India-road, Poplar, was erected in 18-40-1, by 
 Hosking, at the expense of Mr. George Green, the wealthy shipbuilder of Blackwall, 
 principally for shipwrights in his employ, and for inducing the seamen in the neigh- 
 bourhood to attend Divine worship. The chapel has a Greek Corinthian portico, and 
 fa9ade with enrichments of shells, dolphins, and foliage; and a classic bell -tower, the 
 summit 80 feet high. The interior has a Keene's-cement pulpit, highly decorated ; 
 and a powerful Organ by Walker, in a Grecian architectural case. 
 
 UNITED PBESBYTEBIANS. Thiee or four noteworthy churches were built in 1863. 
 Park Church, Highbury New Park, Habershon, architect, is a modification of the 
 Anglo-Italian of Hawksmoor's time, and has a tower with pinnacled spire. At 
 Clapham, a Presbyterian church has been erected, its chief feature being a lofty 
 1 Corinthian portico. Another at Shaftesbury-place, Kensington, J. M. M'Culloch, archi- 
 tect, is Second Pointed Gothic, with short transepts, a tower with spire, and a large 
 five-light traceried window. 
 
 UNITY CHTTBCH, Islington, T. C. Clarke, architect, was completed in 1862, for the 
 congregation formerly meeting in Carter-lane, City, and is remarkable for its strictly 
 ecclesiastical character. It is cruciform, has a broad Nave with narrow aisles, and a 
 shallow semi-octagonal chancel j a handsome tower with double buttresses, cornice, 
 gurgoyles, &c., and a spire 120 feet high. The principal entrance, in Upper-street, is 
 Second Pointed in style, but Italianized : the window-heads have elaborate tracery, and 
 in the tympanum of the entrance is a relievo of Christ's Charge to Peter. The 
 interior has much good carving, some polychromy ; stone pulpit, with shafts and inlay 
 of coloured marbles and alabaster, with reliefs on the panels; large stained-glass 
 windows ; and the organ treated as part of the design. The building has a curiously 
 orthodox appearance, considering for whose use it has been constructed : it cost 
 upwards of 10,000/. 
 
 WEIGH-HOUSE CHAPEL, Fish-street-hill, is named from the Weigh-house of which 
 it occupied the site, whereon formerly stood the church of St. Andrew Hubbard, 
 before the Great Fire. The chapel, which belonged to the Independent connexion, 
 was rebuilt about thirty years ago upon a small freehold plot, which cost 7000Z., 
 but which was sold, in 1866, to a Railway Company for 95,000?., besides compensation 
 to the minister of the chapel, the Rev. Thomas Binney. William Hone, who was per- 
 suaded by his Independent friends to try his talent as a preacher, appeared frequently 
 in the pulpit at Weigh-house Chapel, where, in 1835, he was struck by paralysis. 
 
 WESLEYAN CHAPEL, City-road, was built in 1778, upon ground leased by the City : 
 thither John Wesley removed from the Foundry in Moorfields, the lease of which had 
 expired ; and thenceforth the City-road Chapel became the headquarters of the Society 
 of Methodists. Wesley laid the first stone, in which his name and the date were 
 inserted upon a plate of brass : " This was laid by John Wesley, on April 1, 1777." 
 " Probably," says he, " this will be seen no more by any human eye, but will remain 
 there till the earth and the works thereof are burnt up." John Wesley, who died 
 March 2, 1791, aged 88, was buried here in a vault which he had prepared for him- 
 self, and for those itinerant preachers who might die in London. 
 
 " During his last illness, Wesley said, ' Let me be buried in nothing but what is woollen ; and let my 
 corpse be carried in my coffin into the chapel.' This was done, according to his will, by six poor men, 
 each of whom had 20*. ; ' for I particularly desire,' said he, ' that there may be no hearse, no coach, no 
 escutcheon, no pomp, except the tears of them that love me, and are following me to Abraham's bosom.' 
 On the day preceding the interment, Wesley's body lay in the chapel, hi a kind of state becoming the 
 person, dressed hi his clerical habit, with gown, cassock, and band, the old clerical cap on his head, a 
 Bible in one hand, and a white handkerchief in the other. The face was placid, and the expression 
 which death had fixed upon his venerable features was that of a serene and heavenly smile. The crowds 
 who flocked to see him were so great, that it was thought prudent, for fear of accidents, to accelerate
 
 CHAPELS DISSENTERS'. 225 
 
 the funeral, and perform it between five and six in the morning. The intelligence, however, could not 
 be kept entirely secret, and several hundred persons attended at that unusual hour." Southey's Life of 
 Wesley, 3rd edit. vol. ii. p. 403. 
 
 WESLEYAX CHAPEL, Kentish Town, is of ecclesiastical character: it is built of 
 stone, has a handsome west window of seven lights, with good tracery ; and a tower 
 with a tall stone spire. It has an open-timher roof, and apsidal termination, which 
 serves as an organ-loft, not chancel j in front is the pulpit, large enough to contain 
 three or four ministers ; architect, J. Tarring. 
 
 WESLEYAN CHAPEL, Great Queen-street, Lincoln's-inn-fields, huilt in 1811, has a 
 tasteful fa9ade, added hy Jenkins in 1841, consisting of a small Ionic tetrastyle 
 forming a portico, crowned by a pediment ; above is a Venetian triple window, and 
 a handsome cornicione. The front is executed in beautiful Talacre stone from 
 North Wales, and is the earliest instance of its being employed in our metropolitan 
 buildings. 
 
 WESLEYAN MODEL CHAPEL, East India-road, Poplar, named from its improved 
 plan, was built in 1848, James Wilson, architect, by subscription, to which one person 
 gave 500/. The style is Decorated, and the materials are Caen and rag stone. The 
 windows are richly traceried ; there are two turrets, each 80 feet high, and the build- 
 ing is finished with a pierced parapet, pinnacles, and roof-cresting. 
 
 WESLEYAN CHAPEL, at the angle of the Islington end of the Liverpool-road, is in 
 the Decorated style : it has a turret on the front gable 76 feet in height, and the 
 parapets are pierced with trefoils and quatrefoils. The principal windows have flowing 
 tracery ; and the interior, divided by arches and octangular columns, whence spring 
 the roof timbers, is altogether of ecclesiastical character. 
 
 " The Wesleyans have now five or six edifices in London, clothed in the Gothic dress of various 
 periods, and following the usual arrangements of a mediaeval church, except having no tower and no 
 extensive chancel, resembling in this respect the churches erected between the Eeformation and the 
 late abandonment of church design. The average capacity of these buildings is for 1300 persons. One, 
 nearly facing St. John's, Clerkenwell, affects the complete Gothic above, and has a neat original front, 
 but thin." Companion to the Almanac, 1851. 
 
 WHITEFIELD'S TABERNACLE, Tottenham-court-road, was designed by the Rev. George 
 Whitefield, and commenced building in 1756, upon a plot of ground near the Field of 
 Forty Footsteps, and the Lavender Mills, Coyer's Gardens. It was first opened for 
 public worship, Nov. 7, 1756. In 1759 or 1760 was added an octangular front, which 
 gave it the appearance of two chapels ; the addition being called " the Oven," and 
 the chapel itself, " Whitefield's Soul-Trap." This enlargement is said to have been 
 aided by Queen Caroline, consort of George II., who seeing a crowd at the door unable 
 to obtain admission, observed it was a pity that so many good people should stand in 
 the cold, and accordingly sent Whitefield a sum of money to enlarge the chapel ; it 
 was called "the Dissenters' Cathedral." When Whitefield preached there it was 
 visited by many persons of rank and distinction. The Prince of Wales and his Royal 
 brothers and sisters, Lord Chesterfield, Lord Bolingbroke, Lord Halifax, Horace Walpole, 
 David Hume, and David Garrick, are all reported to have been among Whitefield's 
 hearers. The existing pulpit is the same from which Wnitefield preached. In the 
 vestry there is a good portrait of Whitefield, taken when he was young, and also a fine 
 bust of him ; with portraits of all the ministers since the commencement, viz., the 
 Rev. George Whitefield, M.A. ; the Rev. Josiah Joss, the Rev. Joel Abraham Knight, 
 the Rev. Matthew Wilks, the Rev. John Hyatt ; the Rev. John Campbell, D.D. ; the 
 Rev. Joseph Wilberforce Richardson ; and the present minister, the Rev. James H. 
 Boulding. Whitefield here preached his last sermon in England on the 2nd of 
 September, 1769 ; he died on the 20th of September, 1770, at Boston, America. It 
 had been agreed between Whitefield and Wesley that whichever of them died first, 
 the survivor should preach the funeral sermon. Wesley preached Whitefield's funeral 
 sermon in Tottenham-court-road Chapel, on the 30th of November in the above year. 
 Another instance of a clergyman preaching his own funeral sermon occurred in this 
 chapel on the 16th of August, 1787. This was the Rev. Henry Peckwell, D.D., the 
 cause of whose death was a prick of his finger with a needle, at a post-mortem 
 examination, when some of the putrid blood got into the wound, which caused morti- 
 fication in a few days. At this time Dr. Peckwell was doing duty for the minister of 
 
 Q
 
 226 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Tottenham-court-road Chapel. Being conscious of his approaching end, he ascended 
 the pulpit with his arm in a sling, and preached, from St. Paul's Epistle to the Hebrews, 
 xiii. 7, 8, an affecting sermon, at the conclusion adding that this was his farewell 
 sermon. " My hearers," he said, " shall long bear it in mind, when this frail earthly 
 body shall be mouldering in its kindred dust." The congregation were unable to con- 
 jecture his meaning; but next Sunday morning, a strange minister ascended the 
 pulpit and informed them that Dr. Peckwell had breathed his last on the evening 
 before ! The burial-ground which surrounds this chapel was made from the mould 
 which was brought from the burial-ground of the church of St. Christopher-le-Stocks, 
 in the City of London, when that church was taken down, in 1764, to enlarge the 
 Bank of England, which now occupies the same site. By this cunning, it is stated, 
 the consecration fees were saved. On Thursday, May 13, 1824, the Rev. Edward 
 Irving here delivered in Whitefield Chapel his celebrated missionary oration of 
 three hours and a half. In 1828, Whitefield's lease expired, and the chapel was 
 closed until 1830, when it was purchased by trustees for 20,OOOZ., and altered at a 
 great cost, the exterior being coated with stucco. It was well adapted for hearing, 
 the octagonal portion serving as a kind of funnel or trumpet to the voice : it will 
 seat from 7000 to 8000 persons. In 1834, an unhappy difference arose between the 
 minister, the Rev. Dr. Campbell, and the trustees of Whitefield Chapel, which caused 
 the chapel to be placed in Chancery : the trial respecting it occupied between three and 
 four days. In 1857, the chapel was considerably damaged by fire. It was, however, 
 repaired, and some years later it was sold to the London Congregational Chapel Build- 
 ing Society for 4700J. It has by them been almost rebuilt. The front has a portico 
 and octagonal tower, with a dome. The interior is lighted from the dome by a star- 
 light ; and behind the pulpit is a fine Organ, built by J. Walker. Here are monu- 
 ments to Whitefield, the founder ; to Toplady, the zealous Calvinistic controversialist 
 with John Wesley ; and to John Bacon, the sculptor, who wrote his own epitaph, as 
 follows : 
 
 " What I was as an Artist 
 Seemed to me of some importance while I lived ; 
 
 But what I really was as a Believer 
 Is the only thing of importance to me now." 
 
 ZOAE CHAPEL, in Zoar-street, leading from Gravel-lane to Essex-street, Southwark, 
 was the meeting-house in which the celebrated John Bunyan was allowed to preach, 
 by favour of his friend, Dr. Thomas Barlow, Bishop of Lincoln, to whom it belonged ; 
 and if only one day's notice was given, the place would not contain half the people 
 that attended ; 3000 persons have been gathered together there, and not less than 
 1200 on week-days and dark winter mornings at seven o'clock. There is a print of 
 this chapel in Wilkinson's Londina Illustrata, and a woodcut vignette of it in Dr. 
 Cheever's Memoir of Bunyan, prefixed to the Pilgrim's Progress (Bogue, 1858). The 
 chapel was used as a wheelwright's shop prior to its being pulled down, when the 
 pulpit in which Bunyan had preached was removed to the Methodist Chapel, Palace- 
 yard, Lambeth. Another " true pulpit " is shown in Jewin-street Chapel, Aldersgate- 
 street. Bunyan's Pulpit Bible was purchased by Mr. Whitbread, M.P., at the sale of 
 the library of the Rev. S. Palmer, at Hackney, in 1813. 
 
 FRIENDS' OE QUAKERS' MEETING-HOUSES. 
 
 fPHERE are six Friends' Meeting-houses in the metropolis : 1. Devonshire House 
 -*- (Houndsditch) ; 2. Bishopsgate-street Without ; 3. Peel (Peel-court, John-street, 
 Smithfield) ; 4, Ratcliffe (Brook-street) j 5. Southwark (Redcross-street) ; 6. Westmin- 
 ster (Peter's-conrt, St. Martin's-lane). The first established was that in White Hart- 
 court, which was taken down in 1865. 
 
 " The Yearly Meeting of the Society of Friends is held in London, opening always on a Wednesday 
 in the latter end of May, and continuing into the month of June, generally lasting about ten days or a 
 fortnight. Of course it is the most important event in their religious system, the most interesting 
 season in their year. To this great meeting the business of all their lesser meetings points, and 
 is here consummated. To it delegates are sent from every quarter of the island ; by it committees 
 are appointed to receive appeals against the decisions of minor meetings, to carry every object 
 which is deemed desirable, within their body or beyond it, into effect ; by it Parliament is petitioned ; 
 the Crown addressed; religious ministers are sanctioned in their schemes of foreign travel, or
 
 CHURCHES GREEK. 227 
 
 those schemes restrained; and funds are received and appropriated for the prosecution of all 
 their views as a society. The City is their place of resort ; and the Yearly Meeting is held in Devon- 
 shire House. 
 
 " The mingling of plain coats, broad hats, friendly shawls, and friendly bonnets, in the great human 
 stream that ever rolls along the pates of the City, in that neighbourhood, at this season, becomes 
 very predominant. Bishopsgate Within and Bishopsgate Without, Gracechurch-street, Houndsditch, 
 Liverpool-street^ Old Broad-street, Sun-street, almost every street of that district, fairly swarms with 
 Friends. The inns and private lodgings are full of them. The White Hart and the Four Swans are 
 full of them. They have a table-d'hote, at which they generally breakfast and dine. Every Friend's 
 house at this time has its guests ; and many of the wealthy keep a sort of open house. 
 
 " At a Friends' Meeting, the men are sitting all on one side by themselves, with their hats on, and 
 presenting a very dark and sombre mass; the women sitting together on the other, as light and attrac- 
 tive. In the seats below the gallery are sitting many weighty friends, men and women, still apart ; and 
 in the gallery a long row of preachers, male and female, perhaps twenty or thirty in number. You may 
 safely count on a succession of sermons or prayers. Men and women arise, one after another, and preach 
 in a variety of styles, but all peculiar to Friends. Suddenly a man-minister takes off his hat, or a 
 woman-minister takes off her bonnet ; he or she drops quietly on the bass before them ; at the sight 
 the whole meeting rises, and remains on its feet while the minister enters into ' supplication.' Most 
 singular, striking, and picturesque are often the sermons you hear." William Howitt. 
 
 GEEHK CHURCHES. 
 
 pREEK CHURCH, London Wall, the first ecclesiastical structure erected by the 
 VJ Greek residents in London, was opened in 1850, on Sunday, Jan. 6, o.s., and in 
 the Greek Kalendar, Christmas-day. The edifice is Byzantine (from Byzantium, the 
 capital of the Lower Greek Empire), with Italian interior details. The north front 
 has three horse-shoe arches fringed, and Byzantine columns, between which are the 
 entrance doorways ; and in the upper story is a similar arcade, containing three 
 windows : above is this inscription, in Greek characters : 
 
 " During the reign of the august Victoria, who governs the great people of Britain, and also other 
 nations scattered over the earth, the Greeks sojourning here erected this Church to the Divine Saviour, 
 in veneration of the rights of their fathers." 
 
 Above is a pediment surmounted with a cross. In plan, the church is a cross of equal 
 parts ; the ceiling is domed in the centre : on the north and south sides are galleries, 
 with flower-ornamental fronts, and supported on decorated arches and pillars, with 
 fine capitals. The altar-screen has these panel pictures, painted in Russia : the Annun- 
 ciation ; the Virgin holding the infant Jesus ; Jesus sitting on a throne ; and St. John 
 the Baptist. In a centre panel is inscribed, in Greek : 
 
 " O Lord, the strength of those who trust in Thee, uphold the Church which Thou hast redeemed 
 with Thy precious blood." 
 
 Within the Iconostasis, or screen, is the altar in " the holy place," symbolic of the Holy 
 of Holies in the Jewish ritual. A magnificent chandelier, with wax-lights, is sus- 
 pended from the ceiling. The congregation stand during the whole service j but there 
 are seats made to turn up, as in our cathedral stalls ; and knobs are placed on the 
 upper arms, to serve as rests. The officiating priest is richly robed, and attended by 
 boys bearing a wax-taper, each in a surplice with a blue cross on the back. Upon the 
 high altar are placed a large crucifix, candelabra with lights, &c. At a portion of the 
 Mass a curtain is drawn before the altar, whilst the priest silently and alone prays for 
 the sanctification of the Sacrament j he then re-appears, "bids peace to all the 
 people," and blesses them. The sermon is preached in the pulpit, the priest wearing 
 a black robe and a black hat ; this is covered with the KoAuTrrpa, or veil, to indi- 
 cate that the wearer is under the influence of the Gospel. The church at London 
 Wall (designed by T. E. Owen, of Portsmouth), cost about 10,0001. ; yet the number 
 of Greek residents at the date of its opening, in 1850, did not exceed 220. 
 
 RUSSIAN EMBASSY CHAPEL, Welbeck-street, James Thomson, architect,has some points 
 of special interest, not only on account of being one of the only two places in the metro- 
 polis devoted to divine service according to the Greek ritual, the other being in London 
 Wall ; but also in a class of architecture of which we have fewer examples than of 
 most others. The style is Byzantine, and the distinctive feature it aims to embody, is 
 that of firmamental expanse, as contradistinguished from the flat ceilings of the Latin 
 or pointed roofs of Gothic churches. This is effected by means of arched ceilings 
 throughout, the centre having a domical roof or cupola superimposed upon a polygonal 
 tambour. The chapel consists of a parallelogram : the length is divided into three 
 compartments, of which two are devoted to the auditorium, and the third, formed into
 
 223 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 an apse, is limited to the sanctum. This latter is raised and approached by three 
 circular steps, on each side of which is a small platform for the choristers, the whole 
 being enclosed with a dwarf metal railing. Between this and the altar is erected an 
 ornamental screen formed of solid masonry, with carved mouldings and marble pillars, 
 having alabaster caps and bases : this, while on the one hand it represents the veil of 
 the temple, separating the body of the chapel from the " Holy of Holies," serves also 
 as an Iconostasis, not for sculptured images, but for paintings, in niches : they are the 
 production of Russian artists, and represent the Saviour, the Virgin, St. Nicholas 
 (patron saint of Russia), St. George, and the archangels Gabriel and St. Michaeli ; and 
 in the crowning panel of the screen is a picture of the Holy Supper, after the eminent 
 Russian painter, Bruloff. The holy doors are carved and splendidly gilt, and inlaid 
 with metals of different hue. They contain small heads of the Evangelists, and a 
 picture of the Annunciation. The folding of these doors is managed so that, when 
 closed, they appear as an impassable barrier, which, at the proper time, the high priest 
 is able to unfold with ease, so as to give access to the altar. The whole of the paint- 
 ings and screen are the gift of-H. Basil Gromoff, a Russian gentleman of St. Peters- 
 burg. Behind the screen doors is the customary curtain of damask silk, which, when 
 drawn aside, displays the sacred altar and its insignia. The Russian mode of worship 
 being wholly a standing or kneeling service, there are no pews or stall seats provided. 
 The cupola is constructed of iron, and contains twelve lunettes five feet high ; four 
 have glass paintings, representing figures of the four great prophets, Isaiah, Jeremiah, 
 Daniel, and Ezekiel, and eight of the minor prophets ; above these, in mural painting, 
 are heads of the twelve Apostles upon gold discs. 
 
 A gilt band encircles the upper part of the cupola, on which is inscribed, in Sclavonic characters : 
 " Turn Thee again, thou God of hosts ; look down from heaven ; behold and visit this vine and the place 
 of the vineyard which Thy right hand hath planted." At the east end is a semicircular apse, having a 
 vaulted ceiling, painted azure and studded with gold stars, which are embossed on the surface, gra- 
 duating and concentrating from the base upwards to the apex, where the monogram representing the 
 name of Jehovah is placed. The fittings of the apse consist of the altar table, within the holy doors ; 
 the screen, or Iconostasis, corresponding to the veil of the Temple; and, behind the altar, a triangular 
 pedestal of oak, fitted with a bronze socket, to hold the seven-branch candlestick. To terminate the 
 apse, a freestone arch, supported on black marble pillars, with carved capitals, contains a stained glass 
 window, representing the Saviour, at whose feet, upon a verde-antique marble slab, is inscribed, in 
 Greek characters : " Come unto me, all ye that labour and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest." 
 A large niche on each side contains tables and small enshrined pictures formerly belonging to churches 
 at Bomarsund, presented by the British Government. A credence or cupboard of oak, fashioned as a 
 miniature ark, with sloping roof, contains the chalice, patens, and other holy vessels used in the 
 celebration of the Eucharist. Other pictures on the side wall are St. Alexander Nevsky and St. 
 Mary Magdalen ; the latter figure bearing the alabaster box of precious ointment. In advance of all 
 are placed two elegant barriers of graceful pattern and rich material, mounted on brass standards 16ft. 
 high, with crosslets carved and gilt; upon them are painted, as medallions, representations of the 
 Baptism and Resurrection. 
 
 JEWS' SYNAGOGUES. 
 
 BEVIS MARKS, St. Mary Axe : here is the Spanish and Portuguese Synagogue, 
 which occupies part of the site of the ancient house and gardens of the Bassets, 
 then of the Abbots of Bury, or Burie's Marks, corruptly Bevis Markes. 
 
 DTJKE'S-PLACE. When the Jews returned to England, at the time of the Common 
 wealth, most of the settlers being Portuguese, they built the first Synagogue in King- 
 street, Duke's-place, in 1656 ; and in 1691, was built in Duke's-place the first German 
 Synagogue. 
 
 NEW SYNAGOGUE, in Great St. Helen's, Bishopsgate, was built by Davies, in 1838. 
 It is in rich Italian style, with an open loggia of three arches resting upon Tuscan 
 columns. The sides have Doric piers, and Corinthian columns above, behind which are 
 ladies' galleries, fronted with rich brasswork. There are no pews ; the centre floor has 
 a platform, and seats for the principal officers, with four large brass-gilt candelabra. 
 
 At the south end is the Ark, a lofty semicircular-domed recess, consisting of Italian Doric pilasters, 
 with verde antico and porphyry shafts, and gilt capitals ; and Corinthian columns, with sienna shafts, 
 and capitals and entablature in white and gold. In the upper story the intercolumns are filled with 
 three arched windows of stained glass, arabesque pattern, by Nixon ; the centre one having Jehovah, in 
 Hebrew, and the Tables of the Law. The semi-dome is decorated with gilded rosettes on an azure 
 ground ; there are rich festoons of fruit and flowers between the capitals of the Corinthian columns, 
 and ornaments on the frieze above, on which is inscribed in Hebrew, " Know in whose presence thou 
 standest." The centre of the lower part is fitted up with recesses for Books of the Law, enclosed with
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS ROMAN CATHOLIC. 229 
 
 polished mahogany doors, and partly concealed by a rich velvet curtain fringed with gold ; there are 
 massive gilt candelabra ; and the pavement and steps to the Ark are of fine veined Italian marble, 
 partly carpeted. Externally, the Ark is flanked with an arched panel ; that on the east containing a 
 prayer for the Queen and Koyal Family in Hebrew, and the other a similar one in English. Above 
 the Ark is a rich fan-painted window, and a corresponding one, though less brilliant, at the north end. 
 The ceiling, which is flat, is decorated with thirty coffers, each containing a large flower aperture for 
 ventilation. 
 
 This congregation had been previously established about eighty years in Leadenhall- 
 street, and there known as the " New Synagogue." 
 
 NEW SYNAGOGUE, UPPEE BKYANSTONE-STEEET, was erected in 1861, for the con- 
 venience and use of those members of the Jews of the Spanish and Portuguese 
 congregations who reside at the west end of London ; Lett, architect. The 
 general character of the building is Saracenic freely treated. The elevation to 
 Bryanstone-street is composed of a centre and two wings; the west wing being 
 gabled, with cornice supported by cut tresses, and the east rising as a tower and 
 spire. The facade is built of parti-coloured bricks, with stone dressings. The 
 porch leads to a loggia or vestibule, from which branch off on either side Port- 
 land stone stairs leading to the ladies' galleries, as by the requirements of the Jewish 
 ritual the sexes are separated during divine worship. The " Synagogue " itself is 
 entered from this loggia, and affords accommodation on the ground-floor for 240 males. 
 
 The interior of the Synagogue is divided into nave and side aisles, by light ornamental columns in 
 two stages, the first supporting the ladies' gallery and the upper arches of a slight horseshoe form, above 
 which is a clerestory with semicircular windows filled in with stained glass. Between the windows and 
 over each column are ornamental brackets, from which spring arched ribs, dividing the ceiling into 
 coffers, the centre of each of which is occupied by a flower communicating with ventilating apparatus. 
 
 At the east end of the Synagogue an elliptical recess or apex forms the sanctuary, which is approached 
 by a flight of marble steps. The lower portion of the sanctuary is formed into closets, in which are 
 deposited the sacred scrolls of the Law, the upper part being formed with windows filled with painted 
 glass, having inscribed there, in Hebrew characters, the Ten Commandments, &c. The ceiling of the 
 sanctuary is formed in a domical shape, pierced with small star-shaped apertures, filled in with diiferent 
 coloured glass, which throw light on the scrolls of the law when the doors of the closet containing the 
 game are thrown open. 
 
 WEST LOXDOX SYNAGOGUE, Margaret- street, Cavendish-square, designed by D. 
 Mocatta, was completed in 1850. It is square in plan, and consists of Ionic columns 
 supporting the ladies' gallery, whence rise other columns, receiving semicircular 
 arches, crowned by a bold cornice and lantern-light. The Ark composes cleverly 
 with the semicircular arches, which hang as pendants before it, and complete the 
 fourth side of the building; the steps, platform, stylobate, and columns, are all of 
 scagliola surmounted by a decorated entablature, which supports a niche-head, in which 
 are placed the tablets of the Ten Commandments, surrounded and shadowed by the 
 palm-leaf. 
 
 There are in London other Synagogues : the chief one is the German, in Duke's-place, Houndsditch, 
 in the midst of the Jewish population. The Sabbath commences at sunset on Friday, when the Syna- 
 gogue is opened ; and again at ten o'clock on Saturday morning. The singing, handed down from the 
 Temple service, and the chanting of the Law, said to be the manner in which it was revealed to Moses, 
 are impressive. The Jews, and the officers in attendance, are most kind and polite to strangers. The 
 interest of the visit is enhanced by procuring a Jewish prayer-book, with the English translation on the 
 opposite page. Strangers are reminded not to take off their hats as they enter : it is an abomination 
 to the Jews, who worship with their heads covered. 
 
 ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 
 
 A MBASSADORS' CHAPELS : Spanish Place Chapel is attended by the members 
 \- of the Spanish Embassy ; Warwick-street, Golden-square, by the Bavarian 
 Embassy (the former Chapel was destroyed in the Riots of 1780); Duke-street, 
 Lincoln's-inn-fields, by the Sardinian ; and Little George-street, King-street, Portman- 
 square, by the French. Celebrated foreign preachers are occasionally heard here, chiefly 
 in Lent. 
 
 BAVAEIAN CHAPEL, Warwick-street, Regent-street, has an altar-piece, occupying 
 the whole space of the end of the chapel, with four Corinthian columns, six pilasters, and 
 sub-pilasters running the whole height. In the centre is a large sculptured tablet, 14 
 feet high and 7 feet wide, representing the Virgin Mary, and cherubim, by Carew, 
 lighted from above.
 
 230 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ST. GEOBGE'S CntrKCn, St. George's Fields, nearly facing the eastern wing of 
 Bethlem Hospital, is built upon the site of the focus of the " No Popery " Riots of 
 1780 : it is the largest Roman Catholic Church erected in England since the Refor- 
 mation ; and with the quaint conventional buildings (priests' houses and schools, and a 
 convent for Sisters of Mercy) at the north end, was designed by A. W. Pugin. The 
 church is a high example of Roman Catholic symbolic details : it is in the Decorated 
 style (temp. Edward III.), is cruciform in plan, and consists of a nave and aisles, 
 chancel, and two chapels ; and a tower at the north-west end, to be surmounted by a 
 rich hexagonal spire, 320 feet high. 
 
 The church is about 235 feet in length, and will seat 3000 persons. It is lit by traceried windows, 
 some filled with stained glass, by Wailes, of Newcastle ; the great chancel-window was given by John 
 Earl of Shrewsbury, and represents the root of Jesse, or genealogy of our Lord. The large window- 
 over the principal entrance, in the great tower, has figures of St. George, St. Michael, and other saints. 
 There is no clerestory, but each roof is gabled; slender pillars and arches divide the nave and sida 
 aisles, in which are confessionals ; and between the nave and chancel is a double stone screen bearing a 
 rood-loft, with a crucifix of Belgian fifteenth-century work, and images of the Virgin and St. John, 
 nearly life-size, and coloured. The chancel is panelled with oak, with crocketed arches round the sanc- 
 tuary ; the high altar has bas-reliefs of the Transfiguration, Resurrection, and Ascension; the tabernacle 
 is richly dight and painted, the metal doors being chased and gilt, and studded with large crystals. 
 Behind the altar is an elaborately- carved stone reredps, with niches filled with images of angels, and 
 the Saints Peter and Paul. The high altar furniture is very superb and massive ; the chancel is floored 
 with encaustic tiles ; and the chapels are superbly decorated in gold and colour. In the baptistery is 
 an octagonal stone font, with sculpture and Gothic panelling. Outside the church, between two con- 
 fessionals, is a Perpendicular chantry to the late Hon. Edmund Petre, for the repose of whose soul Mass 
 is offered herein daily ; this being the first foundation for the support of the church. " The Adorable 
 Presence is day and night in the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament. Look for the red light ; it is there." 
 
 St. George's was opened with great pomp, July 4, 1848 ; and was the scene of the 
 solemn enthronization of Cardinal Wiseman, Archbishop of Westminster, Dec. 6, 1850. 
 The cost of this church to July, 1848, had been 38,000. The number of persons attend- 
 ing this church is stated at from 12,000 to 13,000 persons. 
 
 IMMACULATE CONCEPTION CHTJECH, Farm-street, Berkeley-square, designed by 
 Scoles, and built at the expense of Jesuits, is the first ever possessed by the Order in 
 London : it was opened 1849. The style is the Decorated, the south front much resem- 
 bling that of Beauvais Cathedral. The altar and organ-loft windows are filled with 
 brilliant stained glass : the rose in the latter is very elegant ; and each of the 22 flank 
 windows has different tracery. The interior is large and lofty, and has no aisles or 
 rood-screen : the high altar, designed by A. W. Pugin, cost about 1000Z., and was 
 presented by Miss Monica Tempest, of Broughton Hall, Yorkshire; and her brother, 
 Sir Charles Tempest, presented the Missal, which cost about 501. " Confraternities of 
 the Bona Mors of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, and of the Immaculate Heart of Mary, 
 are established in this church." The services are performed by Jesuits. 
 
 " Roman Catholic churches seem to be distinguished from those of the national faith, at present, 
 only by the occupation of niches that in the latter would be left vacant. It is remarkable, however, that 
 they all seem to affect the style of one period, viz., the first half of the fourteenth century, their 
 designers apparently disdaining the representation of either an immature or a declining form of art ; 
 but fixing always on the fully developed Gothic, just at the turning point of its career." Companion to 
 the Almanac, 1851. 
 
 ST. JOHN OP JERUSALEM, Great Ormond-street, was generously founded by Sir 
 George Bowyer, Bart., M.P., and built from the designs of Goldie. The fafade of the 
 exterior, of Portland stone, is of two orders, Ionic and Corinthian : upon the upper 
 cornice is inscribed : 
 
 " Servi : Dominorum : Pauperum : Infirmorum :" 
 
 and on the lower are the following words : 
 
 " Ecclesia : S : Milit : ord : S : Johan : Hierosol :" 
 
 In the pediment is the cross of the Order of St. John ; and the Imperial crown and 
 shield adorn the window, which forms a feature in the upper order, flanked by two 
 sculptured wreaths. The principal entrance doorway is surmounted by a marble 
 tablet, on which is commemorated, in an inscription, the fact of the foundation. 
 The church within presents a parallelogram. Slight recesses stand in the place of 
 transepts, and beyond them is the choir for the religious of the adjoining Convent and 
 Hospital, whilst between rises the cupola above the ceiling of the church. An elaborate 
 cornice runs round the church below the ceiling, and rests on pilasters of the Corinthian 
 order, all formed of polished red marble, with marble bases and plinths. At the upper
 
 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS EC-VAN CATHOLIC. 231 
 
 end of the Nave a doorway gives access to the Hospital ; and above it, carried on carved 
 stone consols, is a tribune of polished alabaster, opening into the lowest ward for the 
 use of the sick. The floor of the Nave is of coloured tiles, arranged in a fret pattern. 
 A marble step lifts the sanctuary floor above the nave level, and this upper floor is 
 entirely composed of white marble. The high altar is placed beneath a marble canopy, 
 under a cupola, adorned with the same materials, the most frequent decoration being 
 the Maltese Cross of eight points, in white, inlaid in the brown veined marble ; it 
 stands immediately beneath the centre of the dome, and is surmounted by a baldachino 
 of marbles of various colours, with a panelled ceiling of wood. Two side altars, both 
 ancient, stand on either side in the small transeptal recesses. The nuns' choir, behind 
 the high altar, is supported by marble scrolls, and is fitted up on three sides with stalls, 
 and inlaid crosses of the Order of St. John, all polished. The front bears the arms 
 of the founder, who has presented this church to the Hospital. Against the extreme 
 end wall of the church is a largo tribune, carried on stone brackets, with a gilt lattice 
 front, for the Organ. The whole of the interior is decorated with gilding and colour. 
 
 ITALIAN (Si. PETER'S) CHURCH, Hatton-wall ; architect, J. M. Bryson. The walls 
 are of grey stock bricks. The triforium arches are supported by York stone columns, 
 of the Ionic order, in the Roman Basilica style, and is the only church of the same 
 style in the kingdom. There are two side aisles, a Nave and a Chancel : in the latter 
 are statues of the four Evangelists. There are two galleries, one over each of the side 
 aisles (as triforia), with access by stone stairs. Under the Chancel is a subterraneous 
 church, or crypt, capable of holding 200 persons. The ceilings are flat, in panels, 
 which will eventually be painted, as also will be the walls. There will be a tower at 
 the south-west end of the church, carried up to a height of 100 feet, where will be hung 
 a bell weighing four tons. The high altar has four polished black and gold marble 
 columns, standing on pedestals, with white marble caps and bases of the Composite 
 order, surmounted with a cornice wreath, crown canopy, and cross, which will be gilt. 
 The tabernacle and steps of the high altar are of different coloured marbles, all of 
 which have been obtained from Italy. The body of the church is lighted by clerestory 
 windows, in each of which is a design in the shape of a cross, made of iron and wood. 
 The chancel is lighted by windows of a similar design. The church is planned to hold 
 3400 persons. The funds have been collected abroad by the priests connected with the 
 church. It was opened in 1863. 
 
 ST. JOHN THE EVANGELIST'S, Duncan-terrace, Islington, was opened in 1843. It 
 was designed by Scoles, in the Anglo-Norman style, and has an eastern gable, flanked 
 by two spires, each 130 feet high. The church itself is a large structure, Basilican in 
 plan, very lofty and effective in composition ; its aisles are narrow, set off for chapels 
 and special altars. In one of these is the fresco, painted by Armitage, against the ex- 
 ternal wall of the church. 
 
 " The figures are life-size ; the subject, St. Francis of Assisi, in 1210, receiving the approval of Pope 
 Innocent the Third to the Rule of the Order of the Fratres Minores, or Franciscans, as they are now 
 called. Their founder stands, his head humbly bent, his hands held together before the enthroned 
 Pope, who reads article by article the Rule of the Order. A monk on each side of the saint kneels, as 
 do others behind him. The Pope is supported by a cardinal on each side, seated all splendidly dressed. 
 Attendants stand behind the throne. The scene is an open-sided hall in the Capitol, where the Pope 
 is presumed to have lived at the period in question. Through the arcade we look over Rome and its 
 ruins as in the thirteenth century. Following that sound rule of Art which demands character every- 
 where, Mr. Armitage has given a portrait-like character to his heads, which in the broad style he follows 
 individualizes each figure and face, and gives a striking look of truth to the whole. The expressions 
 are effective, without anything of the theatre ; the design, large and simple in composition, suits the 
 subject and the material perfectly." Athenceum. 
 
 In the apse of the church is the fresco representing Christ and the Apostles. In the 
 semi-dome above the last is a fresco representing God the Father with the Angels, &c., 
 painted by A. Aglio about 1844. Under the chancel is a crypt, or mortuary chapel : 
 and adjoining is a spacious cemetery. This church has a Holy Guild attached ; the 
 Eev. Frederick Oakeley officiates. 
 
 ST. MART'S, Moorfields, corner of East-street, Finsbury-circus, opened in 1S20, has 
 an embellished entrance fa9ade, in the pediment of which are sculptured two figures 
 kneeling at the Cross. The interior is very superb : it was re-decorated throughout by 
 Charles Kuckuck, in 1858.
 
 232 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 It is divided transversely, by a series of columns, into a spacious Nave and side aisles, the ceiling of 
 the former being elliptical and the latter flat, and the latter terminated at the western ends by alcoves, 
 which form minor altars. Over the high altar is a semi-elliptical dome, supported by six fluted columns, 
 which have gilded capitals, modelled from the example of the monument of Lysicrates, at Athens. The 
 surface of this semi-dome is embellished by thirteen oaken panels, which are filled with foliage and 
 fruit and flowers, in admirable imitation of reliefs. Behind this semi-dome, on a curved ground, which 
 is the extreme termination of the church, and forms the back of the high altar, ingeniously lighted 
 from the roof, is a magnificent large painting of the Crucifixion, which produces a splendid effect. In 
 the centre of the ceiling of the Nave is a large painting in fresco, representing the Assumption of the 
 Virgin Mary, attended by the heavenly choir, and the Four Evangelists ; and on each side of the spring- 
 ing of the arched ceiling are oblong panels painted with figures in bas-relief of the Nativity, the Adora- 
 tion of the Magi, the Infant Saviour, &c. 
 
 The ceilings of the aisles are divided into various compartments, and painted in white, to resemble 
 moulded panels and enrichments in plaster, on a deep gold ground. The series of columns, with their 
 surmounting entablature, are profusely decorated, their bases being to imitate white and their shafts 
 sienna marble. The capitals, together with the dentals of the cornice, are gilded. The moulded por- 
 tion of the entablature is relieved with white,- green, red, and blue, picked in with deep brown, and the 
 front of the corona is painted to resemble rouge royale marble. The general surfaces of the walls above 
 the surbase mouldings are of a lavender tint, and underneath the cornice around the windows is a richly- 
 ornamented border. The lower portions of the altar are very richly decorated, their pilasters having 
 enriched silver ornaments on their faces, picked out with brilliant colours on a solid gilt ground, and 
 the base and back of the altar under the large picture of the Crucifixion, to which we have previously 
 adverted, is formed in imitation of various kinds of marble. 
 
 The sacramental plate was presented by Pope Pius VII. Carl Maria von Weber 
 was buried in the vaults of this chapel, June 21, 1826 ; but his remains have since been 
 removed to the Catholic churchyard in the Friederichstadt, Dresden. 
 
 ST. MONICA'S is in connexion with the Irish Augustinian Monastery, in Hoxton- 
 sqnare. It is a curious fact that the old house inhabited by the Fathers was formerly 
 a favourite place of resort of King Charles II., who had a house not far distant, between 
 which and the house in question a subterranean passage communicated. Some traces 
 of the passage are still discernible. 
 
 ORATORY OF ST. PHILIP NERI, King William- street, Strand, was originally an 
 Assembly Room : here the Rev. F. W. Faber, author of the Cherwell Water Lily, and 
 other poems, preached (in 1850) to a large and deeply-moved audience. About thirteen 
 years ago, a Roman Catholic builder purchased a plot of ground, three acres, beside 
 the church of the Holy Trinity at Brompton, and here commenced buildings for 
 the future residence and church of the Oratorian Fathers. 
 
 " The Roman Catholic population in the parish, or mission, under the spiritual direction of the 
 Fathers of the Oratory, now comprises between 7000 and 8000 souls. The average attendance at Mass 
 on Sundays is about 5000, and the average number of communions for two years has been about 45,000 
 annually. In the schools attached are 1000 pupils." Tablet, 1865. 
 
 OTTR LADY'S, Grove-end-road, St. John's Wood, designed by Scoles, 1834, was 
 built and endowed by two ladies, the Misses Gallini. The site formerly belonged to 
 the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem (whence St. John's Wood), whose predecessors, 
 the Knights Templar, held the same estate, and built the Temple Church, the proto- 
 type of the present cross church, which is Early Pointed, thirteenth century. The 
 western front, with its three gables and crosses, Catherine-wheel and lancet windows, 
 and pinnacled turrets, is a fine composition. The gables of the north and south fronts 
 are surmounted with canopied niches, containing sculptured groups of the Madonna 
 and Child ; and the east front has a large window filled with stained glass. The in- 
 terior has acutely-arched and richly -bossed roofs, springing from slender shafts j and 
 the high altar is backed by a rich open screen. In the schools are educated and 
 clothed, gratuitously, three hundred poor children. 
 
 ST. PATRICK'S, Sutton-street, Soho, is much frequented by the poor Catholic popu- 
 lation of St. Giles's. The festival of St. Patrick (March 17) is observed here as a 
 double of the first class, with High Mass. 
 
 SARDINIAN CHAPEL (the), Duke-street, Lincoln's-inn-fields, is the oldest foundation 
 of the metropolitan places of worship now in the hands of the Roman Catholics of 
 London. It was built in the year before Charles I. was beheaded : that is, in 1648, just at 
 the close of the Great Rebellion, and the practical commencement of Oliver Cromwell's 
 rule. During the existence of the penal laws, the only entrance to the chapel was 
 through the Sardinian ambassador's house, in Lincoln's-inn-fields. The Riots of 1780 
 commenced with the partial demolition of this building: the mob were especially 
 savage in attacking it it being the mother-chapel, the oldest in London, and at that
 
 CITY WALLS AND GATES. 233 
 
 time the resort of all the leading Koinan Catholics. In derision of their worship, a 
 cat was dressed in the miniature vestments of a priest, an imitative host or wafer was 
 placed in its paws, and thus it was hung to the lamp-post of the chapel. The edifice 
 was rebuilt after the Riots, and was enlarged by adding to it at the west end the Am- 
 bassador's stables. It has some painted glass, a finely-toned organ, and splendid 
 church-plate, used only on solemn festivals : the altar-furniture was presented by the 
 late King of Sardinia, and cost 1000 guineas; and the painting over the altar, " The 
 Taking down from the Cross," is valued at 700. The choir was formerly maintained 
 at a great expense ; though on Whitsunday, during Dr. Baldaconi's chief chaplaincy, 
 Malibran, Persiani, Lablache, and Rubini, and the principals of the Italian Opera 
 orchestra, gave their aid gratuitously. The choir is now scarcely above mediocrity ; 
 but the services are conducted with great solemnity. All-Saints' day (Nov. 1) is one 
 of the best in the year on which to witness the splendour of the worship. About 
 thirty years ago the district of the chapel extended to Islington, and the congregation 
 numbered about 12,000 souls. This district has been much diminished by the building 
 of other chapels; but the Sardinian congregation is very large. There are four 
 resident priests, one expressly for the Italians. The Savoyard organ-boys much 
 resort here. 
 
 SPANISH CHAPEL, Spanish-place, Manchester-square, was built in 1797, by Joseph 
 Bonomi, and enlarged in 18 16, when a picturesque campanile, 70 feet high, was added 
 by C. Parker : its interior is a Lady Chapel, and forms a second south aisle. The 
 chapel is lighted from the roof with a most captivating effect of architectural chiaro- 
 scuro, and is divided by Corinthian columns. 
 
 CITY WALLS AND GATES. 
 
 fTlHE small space within the Walls of old London has been described as almost exactly 
 J- of the same shape and the same area as Hyde Park. It was, in fact, a, dun, or Celtic 
 hill-fortress, formed by Tower-hill, Cornhill, and Ludgate-hill ; and effectually protected 
 by the Thames on the south, the Fleet on the west, the great fen of Moorfields and 
 Finsbury on the north, and by the Houndsditch and the Tower on the east. Taylor's 
 Words and Places. 
 
 The City Wall is believed to have been a work of the later Roman period, when 
 London was not unfrequently exposed to hostile attacks. Its direct course was as 
 follows : Beginning at a fort on part of the site of the present Tower of London, the 
 line was continued by the Minories, between Poor Jury-lane and the Vineyard (where 
 now is Vine-street), to Aid-gate. Thence, forming a curve to the north-west, between 
 Shoemaker-row, Bevis-marks, and Houndsditch, it abutted on Bishop' s-gate, from 
 which it extended nearly in a straight line, through Bishopsgate churchyard, and behind 
 Bethlem Hospital and Fore-street, to Cripple-gate. At a short distance further, it 
 turned southward, by the back of Hart-street and Cripplegate churchyard ; and thence, 
 continuing between Monkwell-street and Castle-street, led by the back of Barber- 
 Surgeons' Hall and Noble-street to Dolphin-court, opposite Oat-lane, where,, turning 
 westerly, it approached Alders' -gate. Proceeding hence, towards the south-west, it 
 curved along the back of St. Botolph's churchyard, Christ's Hospital, and Old New- 
 gate, from which it continued southward to Lud-gate, passing at the back of the 
 College of Physicians, Warwick- square, Stationers' Hall, and the London Coffee-house, 
 on Ludgate-hill. From Ludgate it proceeded westerly by Cock-court to Little Bridge- 
 street, where, turning south, it skirted the Fleet-Brook to the Thames, near which it 
 was guarded by another fort. The circuit of the whole line, according to Stow, was 
 two miles and one furlong neaily. Another wall, defended by towers, extended the 
 whole distance along the banks of the Thames between the two forts. The walls were 
 defended by strong towers and bastions ; the remains of three of which, of Roman 
 masonry, were, in Maitland's time, to be seen in the vicinity, of Houndsditch and 
 Aldgate. The height of the perfect wall is considered to have been 22 feet, and that 
 of the towers 40 feet. 
 
 The following course of the Wall is shown in a plan drawn by order of the Corpo- 
 ration of London, to ascertain the extent of the Great Fire, and now preserved in the 
 Comptroller's Office, Guildhall. It may be distinctly traced as the southern boundary
 
 234 Offj&iOBIHBS OF LONDON. 
 
 of the churchyard of St. Botolph, at the back of Bull-and-Mouth-street. Hence it pro- 
 ceeded due east, across Aldersgate- street, to Aldersgate, whence it continued, in the same 
 direction perhaps, about 200 feet, where it formed an angle, and had a curious bastion. 
 It then went rather to the north-north-east of Falcon-square, eastward of Castle-street, 
 where it is now standing, externally incorporated with the walls of the houses (a semi- 
 circular tower was uncovered in the rear of No. 27, in the year 1865) ; thence it 
 proceeds, and exhibits large remains in the churchyard of St. Giles's, Cripplegate. 
 
 "The latter, including a bastion, are the most perfect relics. The base of the Wall is composed of 
 small rough flints, to the height of one foot six inches, resting on a fine loam, upon which are placed 
 four feet six iuches of rough Kentish ragstone (the green sandstone of geologists), with pieces of 
 ferruginous sandstone irregularly interposed. Then come two courses of bricks, each measuring 
 eighteen inches by twelve, and one and three-quarters thick, on which is laid more of the ragstone for 
 two feet six inches ; again a double course of tiles, and above that one foot six inches of the ragstone. 
 Total existing height, nineteen feet seven inches. It is nine feet six inches in width at the base, and 
 two feet at the top." IT. D. Saull,F.&.3. 
 
 Mr. Eoach Smith has shown that the area and dimensions of the Roman city may 
 be conjecturally mapped out from the masses of masonry forming portions of its 
 boundaries, and many of which have come to light in the progress of City improvements. 
 
 The position of the Gates, besides intervening remains, enables us to trace the course 
 of the Wall on the western, northern, and eastern sides of London. Mr. Roach Smith 
 shows that it runs in a straight line from the Tower to Aldgate, where, making an 
 angle, it takes again the straight line to Bishopsgate ; from Bishopsgate it runs east- 
 ward to St. Giles's churchyard, where it turns to the south as far as Falcon-square, 
 and at this point pursues a westerly direction by Aldersgate, running under Christ's 
 Hospital towards Giltspur-street, near which it forms an angle, and proceeds directly 
 south by Ludgate towards the Thames. From Ludgate, however, it did not take a 
 direct line towards the river, but traversed the ground now occupied by The Times 
 offices, and from this spot diverged towards St. Andrew's-hill. Excavations in Upper 
 Thames-street have brought to light a portion of it nine feet below the level of the 
 present street, at the foot of Lambeth-hill. Hence it continued as far as Queenhithe ; 
 and it is curious to observe, that though this portion of the wall had disappeared from 
 above the surface as early as the days of Fitzstephen, many of the large stones which 
 formed its lower part were found to be sculptured and ornamented with mouldings, 
 denoting their use in the friezes or entablatures of edifices at some period antecedent 
 to its construction. Excavations have also proved that within the area thus enclosed 
 most of the streets of the present day run upon the ruins of Roman houses, and " we 
 may safely conclude that the streets and buildings of the Roman city, if not quite so 
 dense and continuous as those of the modern city, left but little space throughout the 
 entire area unoccupied, except a portion of the district between Lothbury and Prince's- 
 street, and London-wall, and the ground adjoining the wall from Moorgate-street 
 towards Bishopsgate." 
 
 Mr. Tite, the architect of the Royal Exchange, in 1853, unearthed a beautiful 
 tessellated pavement under Greshain House, in Old Broad-street ; and next, in Trinity- 
 square, Tower-hill, a portion of the ancient wall still existed above ground, which, 
 though not Roman, was supposed to rest on Roman foundations. In 1841, the 
 Blackwall Railway, much further north than this point, cut through Roman remains 
 of the great wall ; but it was not until the autumn of 1864 that further traces 
 were found. Then, in some large works in Cooper's-row, was discovered a very 
 extensive fragment of a Norman wall, with narrow slits for archers to shoot their 
 arrows. This fragment was 110 feet long, and in height, from the bottom of the 
 foundation to the top of the parapet, 41 feet. All the foundations, and a considerable 
 portion of the lower wall, were undoubtedly Roman, built of square stones, in regular 
 courses, with bonding- courses of Roman brick of intense hardness, and excellent 
 cement, as hard as any red earthenware ; and was, as was always the case with the 
 Roman, more of what we should call a tile, being 1 foot square and l|in. thick. The 
 mortar between the bricks was nearly as thick as the bricks themselves, and abound- 
 ing in portions of pounded brick. The exact place of these remains Mr. Tite has 
 shown in an ancient plan of London in the reign of Elizabeth, when the walls and 
 gates were in existence. Undoubted Roman remains of these walls are traceable, viz., 
 Camomile-street (found by Dr. Woodward, in 1707) ; the street still called London-
 
 CITY WALLS AND GATES. 235 
 
 wall (portions removed 1817-18, when Bethlem Hospital was taken down) ; and near 
 Moorgate. Mr. Tite points out that there could have been no walls at the time when 
 Suetonius abandoned London, A.D. 61. Some Norman historians refer the walls to a 
 period as late as the Empress Helena ; but Mr. Tite's opinion seems to be that they dated 
 about the second century of our era. The distinctly Norman work above this level 
 Mr. Tite attributes to the troubled times of King John, when the associated Barons 
 arrived at Aldgate, in 1215, the Sunday before Ascension Day, and entered the City 
 while the inhabitants were at Divine service. After this, the walls being in a ruinous 
 state, they restored them, using the materials of the Jews' houses existing in the neigh- 
 bourhood, and then destroyed to build up the defences, which, as chroniclers relate, 
 were in a subsequent reign in a high state of excellence. In 1257, Henry III. caused 
 the whole of the walls of the City to be repaired at the common charge. In 1282 
 and 1310, the walls were again repaired; and, in 1477, the patriotic Mayor, Ralph 
 Joscelyne, completely restored all the walls, gates, and towers, in which work he was 
 assisted by the Grocers' and other companies, and by Sir John Crosby. " The gold- 
 smiths," says Stow, "repaired from Cripplegate towards Aldersgate, and there the 
 work ceased." The total area inclosed by the Walls which still constitute " the City 
 of London " is only about 380 acres. Proc. Soc. Antiq. 
 
 Mr. W. H. Black, F.S.A, in describing the primitive site of Roman London, cites 
 Roman authors, as Tacitus and Antoninus, to prove that Londinium was not a colonia, 
 but an oppidum, surrounded by walls, for the protection of its commerce and trade, 
 and having a treasurer. He entirely refutes the opinions to prove that primitive 
 London was situate upon the south side of the Thames, by showing that the whole of that 
 low ground was covered by a lake, which extended from the high ground of Greenwich, 
 Cainberwell, Brixton, and so on to Lambeth ; and he is confirmed in this opinion by the 
 direction of the principal streets, which all converge to a centre on the north side. 
 Prom the measures he has taken, in his opinion the primitive site of London was between 
 Walbrook on the east, and Fleet River on the west. The north wall, he believes, ran from 
 Aldersgate, through Lad-lane, to the Walbrook, and from Doctors' Commons to the same 
 brook, through Old Fish-street, on the south. The discovery of several pieces of -old 
 Roman wall on the line confirms this view. The forum, or market-place, would be in 
 Cheap, from which the principal roads diverged. The commerce of the city increasing, 
 it necessitated the enlarging of the city, and we find many of the streets were altered, 
 as for instance, Broad-street used to be the way to Bishopsgate, which was changed for 
 Threadneedle-street ; and a new street was formed from Cheapside to Aldgate. 
 
 In the Sutherland View, 1543, and in Tapperell and Innes's large Map, the Great 
 Wall is seen entire, with its embrasures, its large and lofty gates, and intervening 
 towers. These gates are minutely described by Stow. Chamberlayne, in his MagnaB 
 BritanicB Notitia, 1726, says : " Most of the gates of that old Wall still remain : those 
 which were burnt down at Ludgate and Newgate are rebuilt with great solidity and 
 magnificence ; and those which escaped, as Aldersgate, Cripplegate, Moorgate, Aldgate, 
 are kept in good repair, and are shut up at every night, with great diligence and a 
 sufficient watch, at ten o'clock ; none being suffered to go in or out without examina- 
 tion. Most of these gates are of good architecture, and adorned with statues of some 
 of our kings and queens ; as is that, likewise, called Temple Bar, in Fleet-street, near the 
 Middle Temple Gate." The Gates, except the latter, were taken down 1760-62 : a statue 
 of Queen Elizabeth, from Ludgate, is now placed on the outer wall of the church of St. 
 Dunstan-in-the-West ; and the statues of Lud and his sons, from the same gate, are in 
 the grounds of St. Dunstan's Villa, Regent's Park (the Marquis of Hertford's). These 
 statues were supposed by Flaxman to have preserved the likeness of the originals, as 
 copies, or possibly liberal restorations, of the actual figures. (Archer's Vestiges of Old 
 London, part iv., with six views.) Four of the figures from New-gate are in the south 
 front of the present prison of that name. 
 
 The City of London, properly so called, consists of that part anciently within the Walk, together 
 with that termed the Liberties, which immediately surrounded them. The Liberties are encompassed 
 by the Line of Separation, the boundary between them and the county of Middlesex : and marked by 
 the Bars, which formerly consisted of posts and chains, but are now denoted by lofty stbne obelisks, 
 bearing the City arms, which may be seen, eastward, in Whitechapel, the Minories, and Bishopsgate- 
 street; northward, in Goswell-strcet, at the end of Fan-alley, and in St. John's-street ; and westward,
 
 236 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 at Middle-row, Holborn; while at the western end of Fleet-street the boundary is the stone gateway 
 called Temple Bar. G. J. Aungier. 
 
 See also a Comparative Plan of that part of the City of London which was destroyed by the fireat 
 Fire in 1666, and its altered condition in 1819, by 1- rancis Wliishaw, C.E. ; wherein old London is shown 
 by strong lines, and modern London by dotted lines. 
 
 CLERKENWELL, 
 
 A LARGE parish north-east of High Holborn, and named from a well around which 
 the parish clerks, or clerken, were wont to assemble to act Scripture plays. The 
 whole district was originally a village, which grew up around the priory of St. John 
 of Jerusalem, north, and the Nunnery of St. Mary, south, of what is now Clerkenwell- 
 green. It was then a succession of gentle pastures and slopes, with the " River of 
 Wells," or " Fleet," flowing between two hills on its western border : and its rural 
 character is kept in mind by its Coppice and Wilderness rows, Saffron-hill, Vineyard- 
 gardens, Field-lane, Clerkenwell-green, and Cow-cross ; whilst Turnmill-street recals 
 the " noise of the water-wheels" mentioned by Fitzstephen in 1190. In the Suther- 
 land View of London, 1543, we see St. John's with a lofty spire, with trees extending 
 to St. Bartholomew's, Smithfield ; and westward the village green and St. James's 
 Church, formerly of St. Mary's Nunnery, and then just made parochial. The nave, 
 aisles, and bell-tower of St. John's were, however, pulled down to supply materials for 
 building the proud Protector Somerset's palace. Aggas's map, in 1563, shows us a 
 few houses bounded on three sides by little else than fields. By 1617, however, a 
 number of fine houses had been built in the district, and were inhabited by persons of 
 note. Hence to the village of Islington lay through green fields and country paths ; 
 and so lately as 1780, " persons walking from the City to Islington in the evening, 
 waited near the end of St. John's-street, in what is now termed Northampton-street 
 (but was then a rural avenue planted with trees, called Wood's Close), until a sufH- 
 cient party had collected, who were then escorted by an armed patrol." (Storer and 
 Cromwell's Clerkenwell.) The whole locality is covered with crowded streets. Here 
 is still a large house, once the town residence of the Northampton family ; the garden- 
 ground is now Northampton- square ; and Compton, Percival, Spencer, Wynyatt, and 
 Ash by streets are named from the titles of the Marquis of Northampton, the principal 
 ground-landlord of the district. 
 
 Passing to olden Clerkenwell, the Priory-gate of St. John has been transformed 
 into a tavern ; and the Square, once part of the Priory precincts, and afterwards tho 
 residence of the titled and wealthy, is now mostly tenanted by watchmakers and 
 jewellers: in this Square died Bishop Burnet. Jerusalem- passage leads to Ay lesbury- 
 street, between which and St. John's Church stood the town-house of the Earl of 
 Aylesbury, in the reign of Charles II. At the corner of Jerusalem-passage and Ayles- 
 bury-street, Thomas Britton, the " musical small coal-man," held his music meetings 
 from 1678 to 1714, in a low and narrow room over the coal-shop, to which all the 
 fashion of the age flocked ; Britton himself playing in the orchestra the viol-di-gamba. 
 In Woodbridge-street, branching from Aylesbury-street, was the celebrated Red Bull 
 Theatre, conjectured to have been originally an inn-yard, used for performances late in 
 the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and where the King's Players under Killigrew acted 
 until they removed to Drury-lane. At the Red Bull, women first acted on the 
 English stage : its site is probably now occupied by part of a distillery. St. James's 
 Church was rebuilt in 1788 as we .now see it. The Nunnery Close became Clerken- 
 well-close, on the east side of which was Newcastle House, built by the Earl of New- 
 castle, and where the eccentric literary Duchess Margaret held a sort of academic 
 court for many years after the Restoration. " Of all the riders of Pegasus," says 
 Walpole, " there have not been a more fantastic couple than his Grace and his faithful 
 Duchess, who was never off her pillion." Pepys notes a visit of Charles II. to her 
 Grace at Newcastle House, in April, 1667. 
 
 Another eccentric inhabitant of Newcastle House was Elizabeth Duchess of Albcmarle, and after- 
 wards of Montague. She was married in 1669 to Christopher Monck, second Duke of Albemarle, then 
 a youth of 16, whom her inordinate pride drove to the bottle and other dissipation. After his death, in 
 1698, at Jamaica, the Duchess, whose vast estate so inflated her vanity as to produce mental aberration, 
 resolved never again to give her hand to any but a sovereign prince.- She had many suitors ; but true 
 to her resolution, she rejected them all, until Ralph Montague, third Lord and first Duke of that name,
 
 CLERKENWELL. 237 
 
 achieved the conquest by courting her as Emperor of China : and the anecdote has been dramatised by 
 Colley Cibber, in his comedy of " The Double Gallant, or Sick Lady's Cure." Lord Montague married 
 the lady as " Emperor," but afterwards played the truant, and kept her in such strict confinement, 
 that her relations compelled him to produce her in open court, to prove that she was alive. Eichard 
 Lord Ross, one of her rejected suitors, addressed to Lord Montague on his match : 
 
 " Insulting rival, never boast From one that's under Bedlam's laws 
 
 Thy conquest lately won ; What glory can be had ? 
 
 No wonder that her heart was lost, For love of thee was not the cause : 
 
 Her senses first were gone. It proves that she was mad." 
 
 The Duchess survived her second husband nearly thirty years, and at last " died of mere old age," at 
 ^Newcastle House, August 28, 1738, aged 96 years. Until her decease, she is said to have been constantly 
 served on the knee as a sovereign. 
 
 On the east side of the Close stood a large house, by unauthorized tradition said to 
 have been inhabited by Oliver Cromwell ; but Cromwell-place, built upon the house- 
 site, has been named from this story. Another inhabitant of the Close was Weever, 
 the antiquary, who dates the Epistle to the first edition of his Ancient Funerall Monu- 
 ments from his " House in Clerkenwell-close," May 28, 1631 : he died in the next 
 year, and was buried in old St. James's Church. On Clerkenwell-green is the 
 Middlesex Sessions-House (Rogers, architect), built in 1779-82 : it has a handsome 
 east front, and a large hall, with a lofty dome. Here the County Sittings were re- 
 moved from " Hicks's Hall," in St. John's-street, opposite the Windmill Inn, and 
 named after Sir Baptist Hicks, of Kensington, one of the justices of the county, after- 
 wards Viscount Campclen, who built the Hall in 1612; from this site, " the spot where 
 Hicks's Hall formerly stood," the distances on the mile-stones on the Great North 
 Road were formerly measured. In this Hall, the patriotic William, Lord Russell, was 
 tried, 1683. In St. Johu's-lane are the remains of an Elizabethan house, with the 
 sign of the Baptist's Head (probably in compliment to Sir Baptist Hicks) : it is said to 
 have been frequented by Samuel Johnson and Oliver Goldsmith, in their transactions 
 with Cave, the printer, at St. John's Gate ; and in the taproom is a fine old armorial 
 chimney-piece, engraved in Archer's Vestiges of Old London, part iii. 
 
 Upon the site of Back-hill and Ray-street was the Bear-garden of Hockley-in-the- 
 Hole, not only the resort of the mob, but of noblemen and ambassadors, to witness the 
 cruelties of bear and bull baiting by greater brutes, and " the noble science of defence ;" 
 for, says Mrs. Peachum (Beggar's Opera), " You should go to Hockley-in-the-Hole to 
 learn valour ;" but the nuisance was abolished soon after 1728. The locality, however, 
 still retains its foul stain of moral degradation and squalid misery in its alleys and 
 courts, several with but one narrow entrance ; and three-storied houses let in tene- 
 ments, where men, women, and donkeys find shelter together. 
 
 The tract immediately eastward of the Fleet River was rich in springs, many of 
 them medicinal : hence Coldbath-fields, Bagnigge-wells, Sadler's-wells, Islington Spa, 
 the London Spa, and the " Wells" of the earlier topographers. Spa-fields, the hot-bed 
 of Radical riot in 1817, is now covered with streets. 
 
 Bagnigge Wells was another of these springs, and became a place of public resort in 
 1767. Near the Pindar of Wakefield, in Gray's-inn-road, was Bagnigge House, a 
 picturesque gabled house, covered with vines, traditionally said to have been the sum- 
 mer residence of Nell Gwynne ; and here was a memorial stone, inscribed " This is 
 Bagnigge House, near the Pindar of Wakefield, 1680." 
 
 The Clerks' Well (whence the parish had its name), in Ray-street, now taken down, 
 was left by gift by the Earl of Northampton, in 1673, for the use of the poor of St. 
 James's parish, but was let by the authorities, for 40*. a year. The property was 
 neglected, when the churchwardens, in 1800, placed here a pump, with a tablet, giving 
 a brief historical account of the Well. Fitzstephen tells us that " London, in place of 
 stage plays and scenic decorations, hath dramas of more sacred subjects representa- 
 tions of those miracles which the holy confessors wrought ; or of the sufferings wherein 
 the glorious constancy of martyrs did appear ;'' and it is an undoubted fact that sacred 
 dramas were performed on this spot before the reigns of Henry II. and Richard I., 
 which were the era of Fitzstephen. Cromwell, in his History of this parish, suggests 
 that the observance of this custom here may be of more remote antiquity ; that Cierken 
 being an Anglo-Saxon compound, the custom must be referred to that period. In 
 Aggas's Civitas Londinensis, 1560, is a rude representation of the Clerks' Well in the 
 time of Elizabeth ; it was the spring of St. Mary's Nunnery. The Clerks' Well be- 
 
 \
 
 238 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 came neglected. Near it was the Skinners' Well, now no longer to be recognised, nor 
 its precise situation determined. In a narrow thoroughfare leading from Baker's- 
 row into Ray-street, is a small public-house, known as the Pickled Egg, from a former 
 landlord selling here pickled eggs, such as are still prepared in Hants and Dorset. 
 Charles II. is said to have halted here, and partaken of a pickled egg. The house had 
 formerly a noted cockpit ; in 1775 there were cocking-matches here " between the 
 gentlemen of London and Essex." 
 
 West of Ray-street is Vine-street, formerly Mutton-hill, thought, in PinJcs's History 
 of Clerkenwell, p. Ill, to be derived from the word meeting, anciently spoken moteing, 
 in reference to the Clerks' Mote (Saxon) or meeting-place by the Well. 
 
 Cold Bath-square, hard by, is named from the famous Cold Bath discovered here 
 in 1697 : it ' is now surrounded with houses. In this square, near the Cold 
 Bath, in 1733-36, lived Eustace Budgell, the relative and friend of Addison, for whom 
 he wrote in the Spectator. Here, too, for ninety years, lived the eccentric " Lady 
 Lewson." She died here, in 1816, at the reputed age of 116. 
 
 At the corner of Cobham-row and Cold Bath-square, there stood to our day a noble 
 horse-chestnut tree, which, tradition tells us, was one of a grove of trees that once 
 grew here in the extensive grounds of the ill-fated Sir John Oldcastle, afterwards 
 Lord Cobhaui, the great Reformer; and who, by the barbarous inhumanity and perse- 
 cuting spirit of the age in which he lived, was hung in chains as a heretic, and burned 
 in St. Giles's-in-the-Fields, in the year 1418, for his noble advocacy of the doctrines of 
 Wyckliffe, and an alleged conspiracy against the government of Henry V. His family 
 mansion became Sir John Oldcastle's Tavern; subsequently a Small-pox Hospital, 
 specially for the reception of patients in the incipient stages of that disease, and such 
 as caught it naturally. The building was afterwards reconstructed, and continued to 
 be used as an hospital till 1795, when the charity was removed to the chief establish- 
 ment at King's-cross. At a later period the property passed into the hands of the 
 Countess of Huntingdon's connexion, when the hospital building was converted into 
 private dwelling-houses, on the north side of the thoroughfare well known as Cobham- 
 row. Mr. Pinks could not, however, trace Sir John Oldcastle's residence here. 
 
 Watchmakers, clockmakers, and jewellers settled in Clerkenwell in great numbers 
 early in the last century, and several streets are mostly occupied by them; as 
 " escapement-maker," " engine-turner," " fusee-cutter," " springer," " secret-springer," 
 " finisher," and " joint-finisher," inscribed upon door-plates, attest ; for in no trade is 
 the division of labour carried to a greater extent than in watchmaking. (See ST. 
 JOHN'S GATE.) 
 
 The HMory of Clerkenicell had been compiled and written, with rare fidelity and minuteness, by 
 William J. Pinks, who, dying before the completion of the work, it was finished by E. J. Wood; it 
 originally appeared in the Clerkenwell Nevm, and was reproduced in a large handsome volume of 800 
 pages, by Mr. Peckburn, Myddelton House, Clerkenwell. The author spent six years in collecting his 
 materials: and the editor nearly three years in his labours. The History is mainly the work of Mr. 
 Pinks : it is one of those laborious results of devotedness, which can scarcely be overrated. The book 
 is rich in sketches of eccentric persons, who seem to have abounded in Clerkenwell, from early times. 
 
 CLIMATE OF LONDON. 
 
 THE temperature of the air in the metropolis is raised by the artificial sources of heat 
 existing in it no less than two degrees on the annual mean above that of its 
 .mmediate vicinity. Mr. Howard, in his work on Climate, has fully established this 
 fact, by a comparison of a long series of observations made at Plaistow, Stratford, and 
 Tottenham Green (all within five miles of London), with those made at the apartments 
 of the Royal Society in London, and periodically recorded in the Philosophical 
 Transactions. In explanation, Mr. Howard refers to the heat induced by the population 
 (just as the temperature of a hive of bees), and from the domestic fires, and from the 
 foundries, breweries, steam-engines, and other manufactories. " When we consider that 
 all these artificial sources of heat, with the exception of the domestic fires, continue in 
 full operation throughout the summer, it should seem ^hat the excess of the London 
 temperature must be still greater in June than it is in January, but the fact is other- 
 wise. The excess of the City temperature is greater in winter, and at that period 
 seems to belong entirely to the nights, which average 3'710 warmer than the country ; 
 while the heat of the days, owing, without doubt, to the interception of a portion of
 
 CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 239 
 
 the solar rays by a constant veil of smoke, falls, on a mean of years, about a third of a 
 degree short of that in the open plains." 
 
 In the winter of 1835, Mr. W. H. White ascertained the temperature in the City to 
 be 3 higher than three miles south of London Bridge ; and after the gas had been 
 lighted in the City four or five hours, the temperature increased full 3, thus making 
 6 difference in the three miles. 
 
 Dr. Prout found that when his observations were made during the prevalence of 
 wind (his station being at the western extremity of London), the air blowing from the 
 east contained a minute portion of oxygen less than that which blew from the west. 
 The difference was exceedingly small; still, it tended to show that the air which has 
 passed over the busy streets of the metropolis differs in its amount, not only of car- 
 bonic acid, but also of oxygen, from the air which has not reached those scenes. 
 
 Change of air in the metropolis is mostly effected by the mixture of the gases com- 
 posing it. There are hundreds of places in London into which the wind never finds 
 admission ; and even among the wider streets there are many through which a free 
 current is rarely blown. It is only in the night, when combustion in some measure 
 ceases, and the whole surface of the earth is cooled, that the gases are gradually re- 
 moved, and the whole atmosphere of the City is brought nearly to an equality. 
 Nothing, indeed, can be more striking than the difference even in the sensible qualities 
 of the air of London in the early morning and in the evening : in the former it has a 
 coolness and refreshing clearness, which those who know it in the heat of later hour can 
 scarcely imagine. 
 
 Every one has observed upon dirty windows in the metropolis small tree-like crystal- 
 lizations : these consist of sulphate of ammonia, which is produced in the atmosphere 
 by the burning of vast quantities of coal, combining with the sulphurous acid in the 
 atmosphere. 
 
 Owing to the smoke, many species of flowers (the yellow rose, for instance), will not 
 bloom within ten miles of London ; Paris, on the contrary (where wood is almost 
 universally burnt), produces the finest flowers, not alone in the gardens of the Tuileries 
 and Luxembourg, but in the nursery-grounds of the famous rose-growers, Noisette and 
 LafFay ; which, in the Faubourg St. Germain, enjoy advantages such as it would be 
 necessary to retreat some miles from London to secure. 
 
 In London, in sunny weather, some fine effects of light and shade may be witnessed 
 in the neighbourhood of the public buildings. Miss Landon refers to a bright day in 
 spring as " a very spendthrift of sunshine, when the darkest alley in London wins a 
 golden glimpse, and the eternal mist around St. Paul's turns to a glittering haze." 
 
 CLUSS AND CLUS-HOUSES. 
 
 A LTHOUGH the Club was a social feature of the last century, to the preseut age is 
 -Q- due the establishment of a system of Club Living upon a scale of splendour and 
 completeness hitherto unattainable. Formerly the Club resembled an ill-appointed 
 coffee-house or tavern ; often, however, redeemed by the brilliancy of the wit which 
 was " wont to set the table in a roar," and animated by a conversational spirit com- 
 paratively little indulged in the present day. 
 
 There has been an excess of controversy and surmise as to the origin of the Club ; 
 but neither of the guesses reaches the good sense of Addison, who truly said, "all 
 celebrated Clubs were founded upon eating and drinking, which are points where most 
 men agree, and in which the learned and the illiterate, the dull and the airy, the 
 philosopher and the buffoon, can all of them bear a part." 
 
 It has been pleasantly observed, that Clubs are gradually working as complete a 
 revolution in the constitution of society as they have already effected in the archi- 
 tectural appearance of our streets. In the year 1800, there were only White's, as old 
 as Hogarth's time ; Brooks's and Boodle's ; the Cocoa-Tree, Graham's, and another : 
 now there are nearly fifty Clubs, each possessing a well-appointed mansion. The 
 facilities of living have been wonderfully increased by them, whilst the expense has 
 been greatly diminished ; and for a few pounds a-year, advantages are to be enjoyed 
 
 which no fortune except the most ample can procure. 
 
 \
 
 240 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ALFRED CLUB, the, No. 23, Albemarle-street, established in 1808, is described by 
 Earl Dudley, in his time, as the dullest place in existence, " the asylum of doting 
 Tories and drivelling quidnuncs." It was at this Club that " Mr. Canning, whilst in 
 the zenith of his fame, dropped in accidentally at a house-dinner of twelve or fourteen, 
 stayed out the evening, and made himself remarkably agreeable, without any of the 
 party suspecting who he was." (Quarterly Review, No. 110.) 
 
 The Alfred had, ab initio, been remarkable for the number of travellers and men of 
 letters, who formed a considerable proportion of its members. Yet, strangely enough, its 
 cockney appellation was Half-read. Lord Byron was a member, and he tells us that 
 " it was pleasant, a little too sober and literary, and bored with Sotheby and Francis 
 D'lvernois ; but one met Rich, and Ward, and Valentia, and many other pleasant or 
 known people ; and it was, in the whole, a decent resource in a rainy day, in a dearth 
 of parties, or Parliament, or in an empty season." The Alfred joined the Oriental in 1855. 
 
 ALMACK'S CLUB, the original Brooks's, was founded in Pall Mall, in 1764 (on the 
 site of what is now the British Institution), as a gaining Club. Some of its members 
 were Maccaronis, the " curled darlings" of the day : they were so called from their 
 affectation of foreign tastes and fashions, and were celebrated for their long curls and 
 eye-glasses. "At Almack's," writes Walpole in 1770, "which has taken the^a* of White's, 
 is worthy the decline of our empire, or commonwealth, which you please : the young men 
 of the age lose ten, fifteen, twenty thousand pounds in an evening." The play at this 
 gaming club was only for rouleaus of 501. each, and generally there was 10,OOOZ. in 
 specie on the table. The gamesters began by pulling off their embroidered clothes, 
 and put on frieze greatcoats, or turned their coats inside outwards for luck. They put 
 on pieces of leather (such as are worn by footmen when they clean the knives) to save 
 their laced ruffles ; and to guard their eyes from the light and to prevent tumbling their 
 hair, wore high-crowned straw hats with broad brims, and adorned with flowers and 
 ribbons; masks to conceal their emotions when they played at quinz. Each gamester 
 had a small neat stand by him, to hold his tea ; or a wooden bowl with an edge of 
 ormolu, to hold the rouleaus. Almack's was subsequently Goosetree's. 
 
 In the year 1780, Pitt was then an habitual frequenter, and here his personal adherents mustered 
 strongly. The members, we are told in the Life of Wilberforce, were about twenty-five in number, 
 and included Pratt (afterwards Lord Camden), Lords Euston, Chatham, Graham, Duncannon, Althorp, 
 Apsley, G. Cavendish, and Lennox ; Messrs. Eliot, Sir Andrew St. John, Bridgeman (afterwards Lord 
 Bradford), Morris Robinson (afterwards Lord Rokeby), R. Smith (afterwards Lord Carrington), W. 
 Grenville (afterwards Lord Grenville), Pepper Arden (afterwards Lord Alvanley) ; Mr. Edwards, Mr. 
 Marsham, Mr. Pitt, Mr. Wilberforce, Mr. Bankes, Mr. Thomas Steele, General Smith, Mr. Windham. 
 Gibbon, the historian, was a member, and he dated several letters from here. 
 
 ALPINE CLUB, 8, St. Martin's-place, a small Society founded in order to bring to- 
 gether those who, whether as explorers, artists, or men of science, take an interest in 
 the Alps, or in any of the other great mountain ranges. During the winter and 
 spring, meetings are held, at which are read papers descriptive of mountain excursions, 
 glacier phenomena, and other cognate subjects. See the Alpine Journal. 
 
 APOLLO CLUB was held at the Devil Tavern, Fleet-street, between Temple-bar and 
 Middle Temple-gate, a house of great resort in the reign of Jamej I., and then kept by 
 Simon Wadloe. Ben Jonson wrote The Devil is an Asse, played in 1616, when he 
 " drank bad wine at the Devil." The principal room, called " the Oracle of Apollo," 
 was spacious, and apart from the tavern. Above the door was a bust of Apollo; and 
 at the entrance, in gold letters on a black board, was inscribed the famous 
 
 " Welcome all, who lead or follow, 
 To the Oracle of Apollo," &c. 
 
 Beneath these verses was the name of the author, thus inscribed " Rare Ben 
 Jonson," a posthumous tribute from his grave in Westminster Abbey. The bust 
 appears modelled from the Apollo Belvedere, by some skilful person of the olden day, 
 but has been several times painted. " The Welcome," originally inscribed in gold 
 letters, on a thick black-painted board, has since been wholly repainted and gilded ; 
 but the old thickly-lettered inscription of Ben's day may be seen as an embossment 
 upon the modern painted background. These poetic memorials are both preserved in 
 the banking-house of the Messrs. Child.
 
 CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 241 
 
 " The Welcome," says Mr. Burn, " it may be inferred, was placed in the interior of the room ; so 
 also, above the fireplace, were the Rules of the Club, said by -early writers to have been inscribed iu 
 marble, but were in truth gilded letters upon a black-painted board, similar to the verses of the Welcome. 
 These Rules are justly admired for the conciseness and elegance of the Latinity." They have been felici- 
 tously translated by Alexander Broome, one of the wits who frequented the Devil, and who was one of 
 Ben Jonson's twelve adopted poetical sons. Latin inscriptions were also placed in other directions, to 
 adorn the house; over the clock in the kitchen there remained one in 1731. In the Rules of theApollo 
 Club, women of character were not excluded from attending the meetings. 
 
 AEMY AXD NAVY CLUB-HOUSE, Pall Mall, corner of George-street, designed by 
 Parnell and Smith, was opened February, 1851. The exterior is a combination from 
 Sansovino's Palazzo Cornaro, and Library of St. Mark at Venice ; but varying in the 
 tipper part, which has Corinthian columns, with windows resembling arcades filling up 
 the intercolumns ; and over their arched headings are groups of naval and military 
 symbols, weapons, and defensive armour very picturesque. The frieze has also effec- 
 tive groups symbolic of the Army and N<tvy ; the cornice, likewise very bold, is crowned 
 by a massive balustrade. The basement, from the Cornaro, is rusticated : the entrance 
 being in the centre of the east or George-street front, by three open arches, similar in 
 character to those in the Strand front of Somerset House. The whole is extremely 
 rich in ornamental detail. The hall is fine ; the coffee-room, eighty-two feet by thirty- 
 nine feet, is panelled with scagliola, and has a ceiling enriched with flowers, and pierced 
 for ventilation by heated flues above ; adjoining is a room lighted by a glazed plafond ; 
 next is the house dining-room, decorated in the Munich style ; and more superb is the 
 morning room, with its arched windows, and mirrors forming arcades and vistas 
 innumerable. A magnificent stone staircase leads to the library and evening rooms ; 
 and in the third story are billiard and card rooms ; and a smoking-room, with a lofty 
 dome elaborately decorated in traceried Moresque. The apartments are adorned with 
 an equestrian portrait of Queen Victoria, painted by Grant, R.A. ; a piece of Gobelins 
 tapestry (Sacrifice to Diana), presented to the club in 1849 by Prince Louis Napoleon ; 
 marble busts of William IV. and the Dukes of Kent and Cambridge ; and several life- 
 size portraits of naval and military heroes. The Club-house is provided with twenty 
 lines of "VVhishaw's Telekouphona, or Speaking Telegraph, which communicate from the 
 Secretary's room to the various apartments. The cost of this superb edifice, exclusive 
 of fittings, was 35,0001. ; the plot of ground on which it stands cost the Club 52,000. 
 
 AETS CLTTB, Hanover-square, was instituted, 1863, for facilitating the social inter- 
 course of those who are connected either professionally or as amateurs with Art, Litera- 
 ture, or Science. 
 
 AETHTJE'S CLUB-HOUSE, 69, St. James's-street, is named from Mr. Arthur, the 
 keeper of White's Chocolate-house, who died 1761. The present Club-house is by 
 Hopper ; the principal windows are decorated with fluted Corinthian columns. 
 
 ATHENE CM CLUB, Waterloo-place, Pall Mall, was established in 1823 : the members 
 are chosen by ballot, one black ball in ten excluding. The present Club-house, designed 
 by Decimus Burton, was built in 1829-30, on a portion of the court-yard of Carlton 
 Palace ; the architecture is Grecian, with a frieze exactly copied from the Panathenaic 
 procession in the friez^i of the Parthenon the flower and beauty of Athenian youth 
 gracefully seated on the most exquisitely-sculptured horses, which Flaxman regarded 
 as the most precious examples of Grecian power in the sculpture of animals. Over the 
 Roman-Doric entrance-portico is a colossal figure of Minerva, by Baily, R.A. ; and the 
 interior has some fine casts' from cJief-d'ceuvres of sculpture : the style of the hall, stair- 
 case, gallery, and apartments, is grand, massive, and severe. The Athenaeum is a good 
 illustration of the Club system. The number of ordinary members is fixed at 1200 ; 
 they are mostly eminent persons, civil, military, and ecclesiastical ; peers spiritual and 
 temporal ; men of the learned professions, science, the arts, and commerce ; and the 
 distinguished who do not belong to any particular class. Many of these are to be met 
 with every day, living with the same freedom as in their own houses. For thirty 
 guineas entrance, and six guineas a-year, every member has the command of an 
 excellent library (the best Club library in London), with maps ; of newspapers, English 
 and foreign ; the principal periodicals ; writing materials, and attendance. The build- 
 ing is a sort of palace, and is kept with the same exactness and comfort as a private 
 dwelling. Every member is master, without any of the trouble of a master : he caa 
 
 B
 
 242 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 come when he pleases, and stay away when he pleases, without anything going wrong ; 
 he has the command of regular servants, without having to pay or manage them ; he 
 can have whatever meal or refreshment he wants, at all hours, and served up as in his 
 own house. From an account of the expenses at the Athenaeum in the year 1832, it 
 appears that 17,323 dinners cost, on an average, 2s. 9f d. each, and that the average 
 quantity of wine for each person was a small fraction more than half-a-pint. The 
 expense of building the Club-house was 35,OOOZ., and 50001. for furnishing ; the plate, 
 linen, and glass cost 2500Z. ; library 21,398Z. ; and the stock of wine in cellar is usually 
 worth about 50001. : yearly revenue about 10,OOOZ. The principal rooms are lighted by 
 chandeliers fitted with Faraday's perfect ventilation apparatus. In the library is an 
 unfinished portrait of George IV., which Sir Thomas Lawrence was painting but a 
 few hours before his decease, the last bit of colour that he ever put upon canvas being 
 that on the hilt and sword-knot of the girdle. 
 
 At the preliminary meeting for the formation of the Athenaeum, February 16, 1824, were present 
 Sir Humphry Davy, Bart., P.R.S., the Eight Hon. John Wilson Croker, Sir Francis Chantrey, B.A., 
 Eichard Heber, Sir Thomas Lawrence, P.R.A., Dr. Thomas Young, F.R.S., Lord Dover, Davies Gilbert, 
 the Earl of Aberdeen, P.S.A., Sir Henry Halford, Sir Walter Scott. Bart., Joseph Jekyll, Thomas Moore, 
 Charles Hatchett, F.E.S.; Secretary, Professor Faraday. 
 
 " The mixture of Whigs, Eadicals, savana, foreigners, dandies, authors, soldiers, sailors, lawyers, 
 artists, doctors, and Members of both Houses of Parliament, together with an exceedingly good average 
 supply of bishops, render the melange very agreeable, despite of some two or three bores, who ' con- 
 tinually do dine," and who, not satisfied with getting a 6*. dinner for 3s. 6d., ' continually do complain.' " 
 New Monthly Magazine, 1834. 
 
 At the Athenaeum, Theodore Hook was a great card ; and in a note to the sketch 
 of him in the Quarterly Review, it is stated that the number of dinners at this Club 
 fell off by upwards of three hundred per annum after Hook disappeared from his 
 favourite corner, near the door of the coffee-room. That is to say, there must have 
 been some dozens of gentlemen who chose to dine there once or twice every week 
 of the season, merely for the chance of Hook's being there, and permitting them to 
 draw their chairs to his little table in the course of the evening. The corner alluded 
 to will, we suppose, long retain the name which it derived from him Temperance 
 Corner. Many grave and dignified personages being frequent guests, it would hardly 
 have been seemly to be calling for repeated supplies of a certain description ; but the 
 waiters well understood what the oracle of the corner meant by " Another glass of 
 toast and water," or, " A little more lemonade." 
 
 ATHEN^UM, JuNiOE, the, pro tern. St. James's-square, was originated in 1864, and 
 consists of members of both Houses of Parliament, members of the Universities, fellows 
 of the learned and scientific societies, or gentlemen connected with literature, science, 
 and art. The device adopted by the Club is the Bird of Minerva, a copy of the reverse 
 of the drachma of the Greeks. 
 
 BOODLE'S, 28, St. James's-street, is the noted "Savoir vivre" Club-house designed 
 by Holland. It contains portraits of C. J. Fox and the Duke of Devonshire. Gibbon, 
 the historian, was one of its early members. Next door, 29, Gillray, the caricaturist, 
 in 1815, threw himself from an upstairs window, and died in consequence. 
 
 BEOOKS'S, the Whig Club-house, at 60, west side of St. James's-street, was designed 
 by Holland, and opened in 1778 ; but was originally established in Pall Mall, in 1764, 
 by the Duke of Portland, C. J. Fox, and others. It was formerly a gaming-club, kept 
 by Almack, and then by Brooks, a wine-merchant and money-lender, who left the Club 
 soon after the present house was built, and died in poverty about 1782. Among the 
 early members were C. J. Fox, Burke, Sir Joshua Keynolds, Garrick, Horace Walpole, 
 Hume, Gibbon, and Sheridan. When Wilberforce was young and gay, he played here 
 at faro ; but his usual resort was at Goosetree's, in Pall Mall, where he one night kept 
 the bank and won 600Z. ; but this weaned him from gaming. On March 21, 1772, 
 Mr. Thynne retired from Brooks's in disgust, because he had won only 12,000 guineas 
 in two months. The Club was famous for wagers; and the old betting-book is an 
 oddity. Lord Crewe, one of the founders of the Club in Pall Mall, died in 1829, after 
 sixty-five years' membership of Brooks's. The Fox Club meet here. 
 
 "At Brooks's, for nearly half a century, the play was 'of a more gambling character than at White's. 
 .... On one occasion, Lord Eobert Spencer contrived to lose the last shilling of his considerable 
 fortune given him by his brother, the Duke of Marlborough. General Fitzpatrick being much iu the 
 same condition, they agreed to raise a sum of money, in order that they might keep a faro-bank. The
 
 CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 243 
 
 members of the Club made no objection, and ere long they carried out their design. As is generally 
 the case, the bank was a winner, and Lord Robert bagged, as his share of the proceeds, 100,OOOZ. He 
 retired, strange to say, from the foetid atmosphere of play, with the money in his pocket, and never 
 again gambled. George Harley Drummond, of the famous banking-house, Charing-cross, only played 
 once in his whole life at White's Club, at whist, on which occasion he lost 20.000Z. to Brummell. This 
 event caused him to retire from the banking-house, of which he was a partner." Capt. Qronow. 
 
 BEEF-STEAK SOCIETY, "the sublime Society of Beef-steaks" (but disdaining to be 
 thought a Club), consists of twenty -four members, noblemen and gentlemen, who dine 
 together off beef-steaks at five o'clock on Saturdays, from November until the end of 
 June, at their rooms in the Lyceum Theatre. The dining-room is lined with oak, and 
 decorated with emblematic gridirons, and in the middle of the ceiling is the gridiron 
 first used by the cook. The orthodox accompaniment to the steaks is arrack punch. 
 Each member may invite a friend. The Society originated with George Lambert, the 
 scene-painter of Covent Garden Theatre during Rich's management, where Lambert 
 often dined from a steak cooked on the fire in his painting-room, in which he was 
 frequently joined by his visitors. This led to the founding of the Society by Rich and 
 Lambert in 1735, in a room in the theatre. After its rebuilding, the place of meeting 
 was changed to the Shakespeare Tavern, in the Piazza ; afterwards to the Lyceum 
 Theatre; and on its destruction by fire in 1830, to the Bedford Hotel; and thence to 
 the Lyceum, rebuilt in 1834. The number of members was increased to twenty-five, 
 to admit the Prince of Wales, afterwards George IV. Charles Howard, Duke of 
 Norfolk, was a leading member ; and Captain Morris was the laureat, the sun of this 
 "jovial system :" in 1831 he bade adieu to the Society, but in 1835 revisited it, and 
 was presented with an elegant silver bowl ; at the age of ninety he sung : 
 
 " When my spirits are low, for relief and delight, 
 I still place your splendid memorial in sight ; 
 And call to my muse, when care strives to pursue, 
 ' Bring the steaks to my mem'ry, and the bowl to my view." " 
 
 The liquors are limited to port and punch, in quantity unlimited. The Club-button bears the Club- 
 blazon a gridiron fumant, odorant. Song, give-and-take jest not always of the smoothest and fun 
 the more rampant, the welcomer follow the feast of steaks. At the sale of the Curiosities belonging to 
 Mr. Harley, the comedian, in Gower-street, in November, 1858, a silver gridiron, won by a member of 
 the Steaks, was sold for II. 3g. The gridiron upon which Rich broiled his solitary steak was saved from 
 the fire at Covent Garden Theatre, in 1808, and is still preserved. In the above fire was lost the valuable 
 stock of wine of the Club, and its original archives. Formerly, the damask table-cloths were figured 
 with gridirons ; and so were the drinking glasses and plates. Among the presents made to the Society 
 are a punch-ladle, from Barrington Bradshaw; Sir Johu Boyd, six spoons; mustard-pot, by John 
 Trevanion, M.P. ; two dozen water-plates and eight dishes, given by the Duke of Sussex ; cruet-stand, 
 by W. Holland ; vinegar-cruet, by Thomas Scott. Lord Suffolk gave a silver cheese-toaster ; toasted or 
 stewed cheese being the wind-up of the dinner. (See the fullest account of the Beef-steak Society, in 
 Club Life of London, vol. i. pp. 123149 : 1866. See, also, Ned Ward's account of the Society, in its 
 early days.) 
 
 There was also a Beef-steak Club, which is mentioned by Ned Ward in 1709 ; Peg 
 Woffington was a member, and the president wore an emblem, a gold gridiron. 
 
 Among the other Beef-steak Societies or Clubs was the Club in Ivy-lane, of which 
 Dr. Johnson was a member ; a political Club, " the Rump-steak or Liberty Club," in 
 existence in 1733-4, in eager opposition to Sir Robert Walpole; and at the Bell 
 Tavern, Houndsditch, was held the Beef-steak Club, established by Beard, Woodward, 
 &c. See Memoirs of Charles Lee Leivis, vol. ii. p. 196. 
 
 BLUE-STOCKUTG CLTJB, the, met at the house of Mrs. Montague, at the north- 
 west angle of Portman-square. Forbes, in his Life of Seattle, gives the following 
 account : " This Society consisted originally of Mrs. Montague, Mrs. Vesey, Miss 
 Boscawen, and Mrs. Carter, Lord Lyttelton, Mr. Pulteney, Horace Walpole, and Mr. 
 Stillingfleet. To the latter this constellation of talents owed that whimsical appella- 
 tion of ' Bas-Bleu.' Mr. Stillingfleet being somewhat of a humorist in his habits 
 and manners, and a little negligent in his dress, literally wore grey stockings ; from 
 which circumstance Admiral Boscawen used, by way of pleasantry, to call them ' The 
 Elue-Stocking Society/ as if to intimate that when these brilliant friends met it was 
 not for the purpose of forming a dressed assembly. A foreigner of distinction hearing 
 the expression, translated it literally ' Bas-Bleu,' by which these meetings came to be 
 afterwards distinguished." Dr. Johnson sometimes joined this circle. The last of the 
 Club was the lively Miss Monckton, afterwards Countess of Cork, " who used to have 
 the finest bit of blue at the house of her mother Lady Galway." Lady Cork died at 
 upwards of ninety years of age at her house in New Burlington-street, in 1850. 
 
 B 2
 
 244 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 BRITISH AND FOREIGN INSTITUTE, George-street, Hanover-square, was formed by 
 James Silk Buckingham, under the patronage of Prince Albert, who was present at 
 the opening, in 1844. The leading object of the Institute was to afford a point of 
 union for literary and scientific men from all quarters of the globe, without distinction 
 of nation, politics, or creed ; to give facilities of introduction to strangers visiting the 
 metropolis from the country ; and to add to the attractions of literature, science, and 
 art, the refinements and grace of female society. The Club-rooms had the accommo- 
 dations of a family hotel. The Institute did not long exist. 
 
 BROTHERS' CLUB, the, was founded in 1711, by Lord Bolingbroke, for conversation 
 and moderate conviviality, but intended to eschew the drunkenness and extravagance 
 of the Kit Kat and Beefsteak Clubs. Among the other members, besides himself and 
 Swift, were Arbuthnot, Prior, Sir William Windham, Orrery, and the Duke of Ormond ; 
 Masham and his brother-in-law Hill (?) were also Brothers. They used to dine at the 
 Star and Garter, in Pall Mall, latterly, to which tavern they had been induced to 
 transfer their custom, owing to the dearness of their previous landlord. 
 
 CARLTON CLUB, the, Pall Mall, is a purely political Club, and was founded by the 
 late Duke of Wellington, and a few of his most influential political friends. It first 
 held its meetings in Charles-street, St. James's, in the year 1831. In the following 
 year it removed to larger premises, Lord Kensington's house, in Carlton-gardens. In 
 1836 an entirely new house was built for the club, in Pall Mall, by Sir Robert Smirke, 
 R.A., small in extent, and plain and inexpensive in its architecture. As the Club grew 
 in numbers and importance, the building soon became inadequate to its wants. In 
 1846, a very large addition was made to it by Mr. Sydney Smirke ; and in 1854 the 
 whole of the original building was taken down and rebuilt by Mr. Smirke, upon a 
 sumptuous scale, in florid Italian style, nearly a fac-simile of Sansovino's Library of St. 
 Mark, at Venice : the lower order Doric, the upper Ionic ; the six intercolumniations 
 occupied by arched windows, with bold keystones, and the upper window spandrels, 
 filled with sculpture ; above are a decorated frieze, rich cornice, and massive balustrade. 
 The facade is of Caen stone, but the shafts and pilasters are of polished Peterhead 
 granite. This new portion is intended to form one-third of the entire fafade. 
 
 CAVENDISH CLUB, the, 307, Regent- street, occupies one-half of the upper fafade of 
 the Polytechnic Institution, the entrance being wholly distinct. The Reading-room, 
 42 feet square, and 20 feet high, has a larger supply of foreign and colonial news- 
 papers and literature than any other Club in the metropolis; the Cavendish presents 
 all the usual conveniences of a Club, except dinners. 
 
 CHESS CLUBS, see page 95. 
 
 CITY CLUB-HOUSE, 19, Old Broad-street, occupying the site of the old South Sea 
 House, was built in 1833, from the design of Hardwick, R.A. The style is handsome 
 Palladian ; the only sculpture is a rich festooned garland over the doorway. The 
 Club consists of merchants, bankers, and professional men of the City. 
 
 CITY CLUB, NEW, George-yard, Lombard-street, intended for merchants in the 
 City, was erected from a design by J. H. Rowley, architect, at the cost of 50,0001. : 
 it is the property of a company of merchants, who reserve to themselves the power of 
 admitting fresh members. The front is of Portland stone, and in the centre the columns 
 and pilasters are of polished red granite. The frontage in George-yard is upwards of 
 100 feet, and there is an additional frontage and entrance in Bell-yard, Gracechurch- 
 street. The club-house is approached from George-yard through a Doric portico and 
 vestibule with granite columns and pilasters. The windows have carved key-stones, and 
 fruits and flowers over the architraves. The frieze and cornice are also enriched. 
 An agreeable novelty in decoration has been introduced by means of enamelled slate in 
 panels, imitating malachite and other marble, on the staircase walls. The rooms are all 
 decorated in gilding and colours, each having its own distinctive character as to colour. 
 
 CIVIL SERVICE CLUB, the, upon the site of the Thatched House Tavern, St. 
 James's-street, James Knowles, jun., architect, is occupied by an association of gentle- 
 men connected with the several branches of the Civil Service. The fa9ade, 99 feet 
 high, is entirely of stone, and has a very elegant bay window; the decorative carving, 
 by Daymond, represents real foliage and birds instead of mere conventional ornaments.
 
 CLUBS AND CLUE-HOUSES. 245 
 
 In excavating the foundations which were carried 30ft. below the level of the street, 
 their superficial extent being about 7500 square feet a collection of fossils was 
 discovered, including a good specimen of a lion's jaw and a variety of mammoth bones, 
 the ancient denizens of the spot in centuries long passed; below this surface the earth 
 was pierced another 80 ft., to which depth the main tube of the hydraulic apparatus 
 descends, its lifting power being obtained by the gradual rise of water let into the tube as 
 required. The Club-house rises above the surrounding buildings ; there is an exten- 
 sive panoramic view of town and country from its upper rooms, to which access is 
 obtained by two staircases, or by an hydraulic lift, which communicates with every 
 floor, and is of the newest and safest construction. 
 
 CIVIL CLUB, established in 1669, three years after the Great Fire, exists to this 
 day. One of the fundamental rules was, that but one person of the same trade or pro- 
 fession should be a member, the design being to render mutual assistance in business 
 matters a very desirable object, especially after the great calamity above referred to. 
 The Club appears to have been a sort of court of appeal also. Thus, if one member 
 in his dealings with another did not feel satisfied with the quality or quantity of the 
 goods served to him, he could lay his grievance before the Club, who would decide the 
 matter. Of course, the rules have been somewhat modified, to meet the advanced 
 spirit of the times. The law excluding two of a trade is adhered to, to some extent. 
 The Civil Club met for many years at the Old Ship Tavern, Water-lane, whence it 
 removed to the New Corn Exchange Tavern, Mark-lane. The records show that 
 among former members were Parliament-men, baronets, and aldermen ; the chaplain 
 is the incumbent of St. Olave-by-the-Tower, Hart-street. Two high carved chairs, bear- 
 ing date 1669, are used by the Stewards. This is the oldest Club in existence. 
 
 CLIITOED-STBEET CLUB was, in the last century, a debating Society, which met once 
 a month at the Clifford-street Coffee-house, at the corner of Bond-street. The debaters 
 were chiefly Mackintosh, Richard Sharp, a Mr. Ollyett Woodhouse; Charles Moore, son 
 of the celebrated traveller ; and Lord Charles Townshend, fourth son of the facetious 
 and eccentric Marquis. The great primitive principles of civil government were then 
 much discussed. It was before the French Revolution had " brought death into the 
 world and all its woe." 
 
 At the Clifford street Society, Canning generally took " the Liberal side "of the 
 above questions. His earliest prepossessions are well known to have inclined to this 
 side ; but he evidently considered the Society rather as a school of rhetorical exercise, 
 where he might acquire the use of bis weapons, than a forum, where the serious pro- 
 fession of opinions, and a consistent adherence to them, could be fairly expected of him. 
 
 CLUB CHAMBEBS, St. James's-square, north corner of King-street (formerly the 
 mansion of Lord Castlereagh, d. 1822), has been refronted in cement, in the Italian 
 palazzo style (Johnson, architect) : the ground-floor has some good vermiculated rustic- 
 work, and the windows of the King-street front are piquant. 
 
 CLUB CHAMBERS, Regent-street, west side, between Pall Mall and Piccadilly, was 
 built in 183L>, by Decimus Burton, cost 26,0001. The style is Italian ; the ground- 
 story is rusticated, and terminated by a lace band, or string-course, enriched with the 
 Vitruvian scroll ; this forms a basement to three other stories, surmounted by a bold 
 and enriched cornice. The principal floor has handsome balconies, Corinthian columns, 
 and pediments ; but the whole fa9ade is too narrow for its height. The entrance is 
 beneath a portico with coupled Doric columns. The building contains 77 chambers, 
 coffee and dining-rooms, and offices. The whole is ventilated, and wanned by hot 
 water, with complete skill ; and is supplied with water from a well 250 feet deep, 
 which is raised to the attic story by a steam-engine, also employed for lifting coals, 
 furniture, &c. The Chambers are let in suites by the proprietors. They occupy the 
 site of a house built by Mr. Nash for Charles Blicke, Esq. ; it was filled with articles 
 of vertu and superb decoration ; among which was a small circular temple, supported 
 by Corinthian columns with brass capitals; and a conservatory embellished with 
 models from Canova. Altogether, this was one of the most elaborately-decorated houses 
 in the metropolis. 
 
 COCOA- THEE CLUB, the, was the Tory Chocolate-house of Queen Anne's reign ; the
 
 246 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Whig Coffee-house was the St. James's, lower down, in the same street, St. James's. 
 The party distinction is thus defined : " A Whig will no more go to the Cocoa-tree or 
 Ozinda's, than a Tory will be seen at the coffee-house of St. James's." The Cocoa- 
 tree Chocolate-house was converted into a Club, probably before 1746, when the house 
 was the head-quarters of the Jacobite party in Parliament. Horace Walpole, in a 
 letter to George Montagu, says : " The Duke has given Brigadier Mordaunt the 
 Pretender's coach, on condition he rode up to London in it. That I will, sir,' said he ; 
 ' and drive till it stops of its own accord at the Cocoa-tree.' " Gibbon was a member 
 of this Club, and has left this entry, in his journal of 1*762 : 
 
 " Nov. 24. I dined at the Cocoa-tree with * * *, who, under a great appearance of oddity, conceals 
 more real humour, good sense, and even knowledge, than half those who laugh at him. We went 
 thence to the play (The Spanish Friar) ; and, when it was over, retired to the Cocoa-tree. That respect- 
 able body, of which I have the honour of being a member, aifords every evening a sight truly English. 
 Twenty or thirty, perhaps, of the first men in the kingdom in point of fashion and fortune, supping at 
 little tables covered with a napkin, in the middle of a coffee-room, upon a bit of cold meat, or a sandwich, 
 and drinking a glass of punch. At present we are full of King's counsellors and lords of the bed- 
 chamber, who, having jumped into the ministry, make a very singular medley of their old principles 
 and language with their modern ones." 
 
 Bribery, high play, and foul play, were common at the Cocoa-tree. Walpole tells, 
 in 1780, of a cast at hazard here to 180,0002. The Cocoa-tree was one of the Clubs 
 to which Lord Byron belonged. 
 
 CONSERVATIVE CLTJB-HOUSE, on the site of the old Thatched House Tavern, 74, St. 
 Jarnes's-street, was designed by Sydney Smirke and George Basevi, 1845. The upper 
 portion is Corinthian, with columns and pilasters, and a frieze sculptured with the 
 imperial crown and oak- wreaths ; the lower order is Koman Doric ; and the wings are 
 slightly advanced, with an enriched entrance-porch north, and a bow-window south. 
 The interior is superbly decorated in colour by Sang : the coved hall, with a gallery 
 round it, and the domed vestibule above it, is a fine specimen of German encaustic 
 embellishment, in the arches, soffites, spandrels, and ceilings ; and the hall floor is 
 tesselated, around a noble star of marqueterie. The evening room, on the first floor, 
 nearly 100 feet in length and 26 in breadth, has an enriched coved ceiling, and a 
 beautiful frieze of the rose, shamrock, and thistle, supported by scagliola Corinthian 
 columns ; the morning room, beneath, is of the same dimensions, with Ionic pillars. 
 The library, in the upper story north, has columns and pilasters with bronzed capitals ; 
 and beneath is the coffee-room. Here is no grained or imitative wood-work, the 
 doors and fittings being wainscot-oak, bird's-eye maple, and sycamore. The kitchen 
 is skilfully planned ; exceeding the Reform Club kitchen in completeness. 
 
 This is the second Club of the Conservative party, and many of its chiefs are 
 honorary members, but rarely enter it ; the late Sir Robert Peel is said never to have 
 entered this Club-house, except to view the interior. 
 
 COUNTY CLUB, the (Proprietary), 43 and 44, Albemarle-street, consists of noblemen, 
 . members of the Church, the learned professions, officers of the army and navy, and 
 gentlemen, without reference to political distinction. The Duke of Wellington, 
 president of the committee, 1866. 
 
 COVENTEY HOUSE CLUB (the AMBASSADOES') was at 106, Piccadilly : the mansion 
 occupies the site of the old Greyhound Inn, and was bought by the Earl of Coventry 
 of Sir Hugh Hunlock, in 1764, for 10,000/., and 75. per annum ground rent. 
 
 CEOCKPOED'S CLUB-HOUSE, 50, west side of St. James's-street, was built for Crockford 
 in 1827 ; B. and P. Wyatt, architect. It consists of two wings and a centre, with 
 four Corinthian pilasters with entablature, and a balustrade throughout ; the ground- 
 floor has Venetian windows, and the upper story large French windows. The entrance 
 hall has a screen of Roman-Ionic scagliola columns with gilt capitals, and a cupola of 
 gilding and stained glass. The coffee-room and library have Ionic columns, from the 
 Temple of Minerva Polias ; the staircase is panelled with scagliola, and enriched with 
 Corinthian columns. The grand drawing-room is in the style of Louis Quatorze : 
 azure ground, with elaborate cove, ceiling enrichments bronze-gilt, doorway paintings 
 a la Watteau ; and panelling, masks, and terminals heavily gilt. The interior was 
 redecorated in 1849, and opened for the Military, Naval, and County Service Club, but 
 was closed in 1851. It is now " the Wellington" Dining-rooms.
 
 CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 247 
 
 Crockford started in life as a fishmonger, in the old bulk-shop next door to Temple Bar Without, 
 which he quitted for " play " in St. James's. He began by taking Watier's old Club-house, where he 
 set up a hazard-bank, and won a great deal of money ; he then separated from his partner, who had a 
 bad year, and failed. Crockford now removed to St. James's-street, had a good year, and built the 
 magnificent Club-house which bore his name; the decorations alone are said to have cost him 94,0002. 
 The election of the Club members was vested in a committee; the house appointments were superb, 
 and Ude was engaged as maitre d'hotel. "Crockford's" now became the high fashion. Card-tables 
 were regularly placed, and whist was played occasionally ; but the aim, end, and final cause of the whole 
 was the hazard-bank, at which the proprietor took his nightly stand, prepared for all comers. His 
 speculation was eminently successful. During several years, everything that any body had to lose and 
 cared to risk was swallowed up ; and Crockford became a millionaire. He retired in 1840, " much as an 
 Indian chief retires from a hunting country when there is not game enough left for his tribe ;" and the 
 Club then tottered to its fall. After Crockford's death, the lease of the Club-house (thirty-two years, 
 rent 140W.) was sold for 29001. 
 
 DILETTANTI SOCIETY originated in 1734, with a party of Dilettanti (lovers of the 
 fine arts), who had travelled or resided in Italy. In 1764, they commissioned certain 
 artists to journey to the East, to illustrate its antiquities ; and by the aid of the Society 
 several important works, including Stuart's Athens, have been published. The Dilettanti 
 met at Parsloe's, in St. James's-street, whence they removed to the Thatched House, in 
 1799, where they dined on Sundays from February to July. 
 
 In the list of members, between 1770 and 1790, occur the names of Sir Joshua Reynolds, Earl Pitz- 
 william, Charles James Fox, Hon. Stephen Fox (Lord Holland), Hon. Mr. Fitzpatrick, Charles Howard, 
 Duke of Norfolk, Lord Robert Spencer, George Selwyn, Colonel Fitzgerald, Hon. H. Conway, Joseph 
 Banks, Duke of Dorset, Sir William Hamilton, David Garrick, George Colman, Joseph Windham, K. 
 Payne Knight, Sir George Beaumont, Towneley, and others of less posthumous fame. 
 
 The funds of the Society were largely benefited by the payment of fines. Those 
 paid " on increase of income, by inheritance, legacy, marriage, or preferment," are very 
 odd: as, five guineas by Lord Grosvenor, on his marriage with Miss Leveson Gower; 
 eleven guineas by the Duke of Bedford, on being appointed First Lord of the 
 Admiralty; ten guineas compounded for by Bubb Dodiugton, as Treasurer of the 
 Navy ; two guineas by the Duke of Kingston for a Colonelcy of Horse (then valued 
 at 400. per annum) ; twenty-one pounds by Lord Sandwich on going out as Ambassador 
 to the Congress at Aix-la-Chapelle ; and twopence three-farthings by the same noble- 
 man, on becoming Recorder of Huntingdon ; thirteen shillings and fourpence by the 
 Duke of Bedford, on getting the Garter ; and sixteen shillings and eightpence (Scotch) 
 by the Duke of Buccleuch, on getting the Thistle ; twenty -one pounds by the Earl of 
 Holdernesse, as Secretary of State ; and nine pounds, nineteen shillings and sixpence, 
 by Charles James Fox, as a Lord of the Admiralty. 
 
 The Society, in 1835, included, among a list of sixty-four names, those of Sir William Gell, Mr. 
 Towneley, Richard Westmacott, Henry Hallam, the Duke of Bedford, Sir M. A. Shee, P.B.A., Henry T. 
 Hope ; and Lord Prudhoe, afterwards Duke of Northumberland. 
 
 The Dilettanti have never built themselves a mansion. They continued to meet at 
 the Thatched House Tavern, the large room of which was hung with portraits of the 
 Dilettanti. Sir Joshua Reynolds painted for the Society three capital pictures : 
 
 1. A group, in the manner of Paul Veronese, containing the portraits of the Duke of Leeds, Lord 
 Dnndas, Constantine Lord Mulgrave, Lord Seaforth, the Hon. Charles Greville, Charles Crowle, Esq., 
 and Sir Joseph Banks. 2. A group, in the manner of the same master, containing portraits of Sir 
 William Hamilton, Sir Watkin W. Wynne, Kichard Thomson, Ksq., Sir John Taylor, Payne Galway, 
 Esq., John Smythe, Esq., and Spencer S. Stanhope, Esq. 3. Head of Sir Joshua, dressed in a loose 
 lobe, in his own hand. The earlier portraits in the collection are by Hudson, Reynolds's master. 
 
 There is a mixture of the convivial in the portraits j many are using wine-glasses, 
 and of a small size. Lord Sandwich, in a Turkish costume, has a brimming goblet in 
 his left hand, and a capacious flask in his right. Sir Bourchier Wray is mixing punch 
 in the cabin of a ship ; the Earl of Holdernesse, in a red cap, as a gondolier, Venice in 
 the background ; Charles Sackville, Duke of Dorset, as a Roman senator, dated 1738 ; 
 Lord Galloway, in the dress of a Cardinal ; Lord Le Despencer as a monk at bis devo- 
 tions. The late Lord Aberdeen, the Marquises of Northampton and Lansdowne, 
 Colonel Lecky, Mr. Broderip, and Lord Northwick, were members. The Society now 
 meet at the Clarendon Hotel ; the Thatched House being taken down. An excellent 
 account of the Dilettanti Society will be found in the Edinburgh Review, No. 214. 
 The character of the Club, however, became changed ; the members being originally 
 persons almost exclusively devoted to art and antiquarian studies. The Dilettanti are 
 now a publishing society, like the Roxburghe, the Camden, and others. 
 
 EAST INDIA UNITED SERVICE CI/PB-HOUSE, St. Jarnes's-square, was erected iu
 
 248 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 I860, upon the site of two houses, No. 14 and 15. The style is handsome Italian; 
 architect, Charles Lee. The East India United Service Club was founded, in 1848, to 
 meet the wants of the various services which administer the Indian Government. It 
 has, however, gradually lost its exclusively Indian character, especially since the transfer 
 of our Eastern Empire to the Queen, and it has now on its rolls many officers belonging 
 to the home forces. The Club numbers upwards of 1760 members, of whom generally 
 about 800 are in England. The new building has been designed to accommodate over 
 1000 members. The classic facade next the new Club-house was built by Athenian 
 Stuart for Lord Anson ; and No. 15 was the residence of Lady Francis, who lent the 
 house to Caroline, Queen of George IV. 
 
 ECCENTRIC CLUBS. In Ward's Secret History, we read of the Golden Fleece Club, 
 a rattle-brained society, originally held at a house in Cornhill, so entitled. They were 
 a merry company of tippling citizens and jocular change-brokers. Each member on 
 his admission had a characteristic name assigned to him ; as, Sir Timothy Addlepate, 
 Sir Nimmy Sneer, Sir Talkative Do-little, Sir Skinny Fretwell, Sir Rumbus Rattle, 
 Sir Boozy Prate-all, Sir Nicholas Ninny Sipall, Sir Gregory Growler, Sir Pay-little, 
 &c. The Club flourished until the decease of the leading member ; when they adjourned 
 to the Three Tuns, Southwark. " It appears, by their books in general, that, since 
 their first institution, they have smoked fifty tons of tobacco, drunk thirty thousand 
 butts of ale, one thousand hogsheads of red port, two hundred barrels of brandy, and 
 one kilderkin of small beer. There had been likewise a great consumption of cards." 
 
 ECCENTBICS, THE. Late in the last century, there met at a tavern kept by one 
 Fulham, in Chandos-street, Covent-garden, a convivial club called " The Eccentrics," 
 which was an offshoot of " The Brilliants." They next removed to Tom Rees's, in 
 May's-buildings, St. Martin's-lane ; and here they were flourishing at all hours, some 
 five-and-twenty years since. Amongst the members were many celebrities of the 
 literary and political world ; they were always treated with indulgence by the authori- 
 ties. An inaugural ceremony was performed upon the making of a member, which 
 terminated with a jubilation from the president. The books of the Club, up to the time 
 of its removal from May's-buildings, are stated to have passed into the possession of 
 Mr. Lloyd, the hatter, of the Strand, who, by the way, was eccentric in his business, 
 and published a small work descriptive of the various fashions of hats worn in his time, 
 illustrated with characteristic engravings. From its commencement, the Eccentrics are 
 said to have numbered upwards of 40,000 members, many of them holding high social 
 position : among others, Fox, Sheridan, Lord Melbourne, and Lord Brougham. On the 
 same memorable night that Sheridan and Lord Petersham were admitted, Hook was 
 also enrolled ; and through this Club membership, Theodore is believed to have obtained 
 some of his high connexions. In a novel, published in numbers, some five-and-twenty 
 years since, the author, F. W. N. Bayley, sketched with graphic vigour the meetings 
 of the Eccentrics at the old tavern in May's-buildings. Club Lije of London, vol. i. 
 p. 308, 1866. 
 
 EHECHTHEIUM CLUB-HOUSE, was in St. James's-square (entrance, 8, York-street), 
 and was the house of Wedgwood, whose beautiful " ware" was shown in its rooms. 
 It was formerly the site of RoniDey House ; and from its windows William III. used 
 to witness the fireworks in the Square at public rejoicings. The Club, long extinct, 
 was established by Sir John Dean Paul, Bart., the banker, and became somewhat noted 
 for its good dinners. 
 
 ESSEX HEAD CLUB, the, was established by Dr. Johnson, at the Essex Head, in 
 Essex-street, Strand, then kept by Samuel Greaves, an old servant of Mr. Thrale's : it 
 was called "Sam's." Sir Joshua Reynolds refused to join it; but Daines Barrington, 
 Dr. Brocklesby, Arthur Murphy, John Nichols, Dr. Hursley, and Mr. Windham, and 
 Boswell, were of the Club. Dr. Johnson wrote the Rules, when he invented the word 
 " clubbable." Alderman Clark, Lord Mayor and Chamberlain, was, probably, the last 
 surviving member of this Club; he died in 1831, aged 92. 
 
 FAEMEKS' CLUB, the, originally formed at the York Hotel, Bridge-street, Blackfriars, 
 " open to practical farmers and scientific men of all countries," has now a handsome Club- 
 house (the Salisbury Hotel), Salisbury-square, Fleet-street; architect, Giles ; built 1865.
 
 CLUBS AND OLUB-KOU8E8. 249 
 
 FIELDINO CI/IJB, Maiden-lane, Covent-garden. Albert Smith was a leading mem- 
 ber ; and the Club gave several amateur representations " for the immediate relief of 
 emergencies in the literary or theatrical world." 
 
 FOTJB-IN-HAND CLUB, the, originated some seventy years ago, when the Hon. 
 Charles Finch, brother to the Earl of Aylesford, used to drive his own coach-and-four, 
 disguised in a livery great-coat. Soon after, " Tommy Onslow," Sir John Lade, and 
 others, mounted the box in their own characters. The Four-in-Hand combined 
 gastronomy with equestrianism and charioteering : they always drove out of town to 
 dinner. The vehicles of the Club which were formerly used, are described as of a 
 hybrid class, quite as elegant as private carriages, and lighter than even the mails. 
 They were horsed with the finest animals that money could secure. In general, the 
 whole four in each carriage were admirably matched; grey and chestnut were the 
 favourite colours, but occasionally very black horses, or such as were freely flecked with 
 white, were preferred. The master generally drove the team, often a nobleman of 
 high rank, who commonly copied the dress of a mail-coachman. The company usually 
 rode outside, but two footmen in rich liveries were indispensable on the back seat ; nor 
 was it at all uncommon to see some splendidly-attired female on the box. A rule of 
 the Club was, that all members should turn out three times a week ; and the start was 
 made at mid-day, from the neighbourhood of Piccadilly, through which they passed to 
 the Windsor-road the attendants of each carriage playing on their silver bugles. 
 From twelve to twenty of these handsome vehicles often left London together. Forty 
 years back, there were from thirty -four to forty four-in-hand equipages to be seen con- 
 stantly about town. Their number is now considerably less. 
 
 GAEEICK CLTTB-HOFSE, Garrick-street, Covent Garden, contains a collection of 
 theatrical paintings and drawings, assembled by Charles Mathews, the elder, and be- 
 queathed by a member of the Club : they include : 
 
 Elliston as Octavian, by Singleton; Macklin (aged 93), by Opie; Mrs. Pritchard, by Hayman; Peg 
 "Wellington, by E. Wilson; Nell Gvvynne, by Sir Peter Lely; Mrs. Abington; Samuel Foote, by Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds; Colley Gibber as Lord Foppington; Mrs. Bracegirdle; Kitty Clive; Mrs. Robinson, 
 after Reynolds; Garrick as Macbetb, and Mrs. Pritehard, Lady Macbeth, by Zoffany; Garrick as 
 Richard III., by Morland, sen. ; Young Roscius, by Opie; Quin, by Hogarth; Rich and his Family, by 
 Hogarth; Charles Mathews, four characters, by Harlowe; Nat Lee, painted in Bedlam; Anthony Leigh 
 as the Spanish Friar, by Kneller ; John Liston, by Clint; Munden, by Opie ; John Johnstone, by Shee; 
 Lacy in three characters, by Wright ; Scene from Charles II., by Clint ; Mrs. Siddons as Lady Macbeth, 
 by Harlowe; J. P. Kemble as Cato, by Lawrence; Macready as Henry IV., by Jackson; Edwin, by Gains- 
 borough ; the twelve of the School of Garrick ; Kean, Young, Elliston, and Mrs. Inchbald, by Harlowe ; 
 Garrick as Richard III., by Loutherbourg ; Rich as Harlequin ; Moody and Parsons in the " Committee," 
 by Vandergucht; King as Touchstone, by Zoffany; Thomas Dpgget; Henderson, by Gainsborough; 
 Elder C'olman, by Reynolds ; Mrs. Oldfield, by Kneller : Mrs. Billingtpn ; Nancy Dawson ; Screen Scene 
 from the " School for Scandal," as originally cast; Scene from " Venice Preserved " (Garrick and Mrs. 
 Cibber), by Zoffany; Scene from "Macbeth" (Henderson); Scene from "Love, Law, and Physic" 
 (Mathews, Liston, Blanchard, and Emery), by Clint; Scene from the " Clandestine Marriage" (King 
 and Mr. and Mrs. Baddeley), by Zoffany ; Weston as Billy Button, by Zoffany. The following have been 
 presented to the Club: Busts of Mrs. Siddons and J. P. Kemble, by Mrs. Siddons ; of Garrick, Captain 
 Marryat, Dr. -Kitchiner, and Malibran ; Garrick, by Roubiliac ; Griffin and Johnson in the " Alchemist," 
 by Von Bleeck ; miniatures of Mrs. Robinson and Peg Woffington ; Sketch of Kean, by Lambert ; Gar- 
 rick Mulberry-tree Snuff-box ; Joseph Harris as Cardinal Wolsey, from the Strawberry-hill Collection ; 
 proof print of the Trial of Queen Katharine, by Harlowe. In the Smoking-room is a splendid sea-piece, 
 by Stanfield ; and Balbec, by David Roberts ; portrait of R. Keeley, by O'Neil ; Frederick Yates and 
 Mrs. Davison ; also a statuette of Thackeray ; and a most valuable collection of theatrical prints. 
 
 The pictures may he seen by the personal introduction of a member of the Club on 
 Wednesdays (except in September), between eleven and three o'clock. The Garrick 
 Club was instituted in 1831, " for the general patronage of the Drama ; the formation 
 of a Theatrical Library, and Works, and Costume; and for bringing together the 
 pairons of the Drama," &c. The Garriclc is noted for its summer gin-punch, thus 
 made : Pour half-a-pint of gin on the outer peel of a lemon, then a little lemon-juice, 
 a glass of maraschino, a pint and a quarter of water, and two bottles of iced soda-water. 
 The Club originally met at 29, King-street, Covent Garden, previously " Probatt's" 
 hotel. The old place, inconvenient as it was, will long preserve the interest of associa- 
 tion for the older members of the Garrick. From James Smith (of Rejected Ad- 
 dresses) to Thackeray, there is a long series of names of distinguished men who have 
 marie the Garrick their favourite haunt, and whose memories are connected with those 
 rooms. The Club removed to their present mansion, built for them ; Marrable, 
 architect. The style is elegant Italian.
 
 250 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 GEESHAM CLUB-HOUSE, St. Swithin's-lane, King William-street, City, was built in 
 1844, for the Club named after Sir Thomas Gresham, who founded the Royal Ex- 
 change. The Club consists chiefly of merchants and professional men. The style of 
 the Club-house (H. Flower, architect) is Italian, from portions of two palaces in Venice. 
 
 GRILLION'S CLUB, of which the Fiftieth Anniversary was celebrated, May 6, 1863, 
 by a banquet at the Clarendon, the Earl of Derby in the chair, was founded half a 
 century since, by the Parliamentary men of the time, as a neutral ground on which they 
 might meet. Politics are strictly excluded from the Club : its name is derived from 
 Grillion's Hotel, in Albemarle-street, at which the Club originally met. On Jan. 30, 
 1860, there was sold at Puttick and Simpson's a series of seventy-nine portraits of 
 members of this Club, comprising statesmen, members of the Government, and other 
 highly distinguished persons during the last half century. These portraits, all of 
 which were private plates, were engraved by Lewis, after drawings by J. Slater 
 and G. Richmond. There were also four duplicate portraits, a vignette title, Rules of 
 the Club, and list of its members. In this list, the only original surviving members 
 are four. Notes and Queries, 3rd S. ; May 23, 1863. 
 
 The members present at the 60th Anniversary were the Earl of Derby, K.G., chairman, sup- 
 ported by the Duke of Newcastle, K.G.; the Earls of St. Germans, G.C.B., of Devon, of Clarendon, 
 K.G., G.C.B., of Carnarvon, of Harrowby, K.G., Somers, and of Gosford; Viscounts Sydney, G.C.B., 
 and Eversley ; the Bishop of Oxford ; Lords Stanley, Elcho, Bobert Cecil, Clinton, Lyttclton, Wodehouse, 
 Monteagle, Cranworth, Ebury, Chelmsford, and Taunton; the Secretaries of State for the Home and 
 Indian Departments; the Hoiis. John Ashley, E. Pleydell Bouverie, and G. M. Fottescue; the Eight 
 Hons. Sir P. Baring, Sir Thomas Premantle, Spencer Walpole, Edward Cardwell, Sir Edmund Head, and 
 C. B. Adderley ; Vice-Chancellor Sir W. Page Wood ; the Lord Advocate ; Sirs P. De Grey Egerton, 
 Thomas Dyke Acland, W. Heathcote, James East, J. Shaw Lefevre, K.C.B., and Hugh Cairns ; Messrs. 
 Hastings Russell and Thomas Dyke Acland ; Colonel Wilson Patten ; Messrs. Baring, Buller, Childers, 
 C. C. Greviile, Monckton Milnes, Morier, Ker Seymer, W. Stirling, Wrightson, and Richmond. The 
 undermentioned members were unavoidably absent : The Marquis of Westminster, K.G. ; Earls De 
 Grey, Russell, and Grosvenor ; Viscounts Sandon, Stratford de RedcUfie, G.C.B., and Lovaine; Lord 
 Kingsdowu, the Hon. R. Curzon, Sir C. Lemon, Sir Roundell Palmer, and the Rev. H. Wellesley. 
 
 GUARDS' CLUB, the, was formerly housed in St. James's-street, next Crockford's; but, 
 in 1850, they removed to Pall Mall, No. 70. The new Club-house was designed for them 
 by Henry Harrison, and is remarkable for compactness and convenience. The architect 
 has adopted some portion of a design of Sansovino's in the lower part or basement. 
 
 INDEPENDENTS, the, established in 1780, was a Club of about forty members of the 
 House of Commons, opponents of the Coalition Ministry, whose principle of union was 
 a resolution to take neither place, pension, nor peerage. In a few years, Wilberforce 
 and Bankes were the only ones of the incorruptible forty who were not either peers, 
 pensioners, or placemen. 
 
 IVY-LANE CLUB, Paternoster-row, was formed by Dr. Johnson ; his friend, Dr. 
 Richard Bathurst ; Hawksworth j and Hawkins, the attorney, afterwards Sir John 
 Hawkins. The Club was shut up the year before Johnson's death. About this time 
 he instituted a Club at the Queen's Arms, St. Paul's Churchyard. 
 
 JUNIOR CARLTON, the, was instituted in 1864, and " is a political Club in strict con- 
 nexion with the Conservative party, and designed to promote its objects. The only 
 persons eligible for admission are those who profess Conservative principles, and ac- 
 knowledge the recognised leaders of the Conservative party," which Rule each mem- 
 ber, on joining, signs. The Club is temporarily located at 14, Regent-street ; but a 
 freehold site on the north side of Pall Mall has been secured for a new Club-house, to 
 cost 37,000^., and to be ready in 1868. The Club, in May, 1866, consisted of 1624 
 members ; the subscriptions in 1865 amounted to 17,OS1Z. ; cost of wines and spirits, 
 3109Z. ; cigars, 458/. 
 
 KING OF CLUBS, the, set on foot about 1801, by Bobus Smith (brother of Sydney), 
 met at the Crown and Anchor Tavern, Strand. Among the members were " Conver- 
 sation Sharp ;" Scarlett, afterwards Lord Abinger ; Rogers, the poet ; honest John 
 Allen; Dumont, the French emigrant; Wishart, and Charles Butler. Curran often 
 met Erskine here. 
 
 KIT-EAT CLUB, a society of thirty-nine noblemen and gentlemen, zealously attached 
 to the Protestant succession in the House of Hanover. The Club is said to have 
 originated about 1700, in Shire-lane, Temple Bar, at the house of Christopher Kat, a
 
 CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 251 
 
 pastrycook, where the members dined : he excelled in making muttou-pies, always in 
 the bill of fore, and called Kit-kats ; hence the name of the Society. 
 
 Jacob Tonson, the bookseller, was secretary. Among the members were the Dukes of Somerset, Rich- 
 mond, Grafton, Devonshire, and Marlborough; and (after the accession of George I.) the Duke of New- 
 castle, the Earls of Dorset, Sunderland, Manchester, Wharton, and Kingston ; Lords Halifax and Somers; 
 Sir Robert Walpole, Garth, Vanbrugh, Congreve, Granville.Addison, Maynwarinu, Stepney, and Walsh. 
 Pope tells us that " the day Lord Mohun and the Earl of Berkeley were entered of the Club, Jacob said 
 he saw they were just going to be ruined. When Lord Mohun broke down the gilded emblem on the top 
 of his chair, Jacob complained to his friends, and said that a man who could do that would cut a man's 
 throat. So that he had the good and the forms of the Society at heart. The paper was all in Lord 
 Halifax's writing, of a subscription of 400 guineas for the encouragement of good comedies, and was 
 dated 1709. Soon after that they broke up." (Spence's Anecdotes.) Tonson had his own and all their 
 portraits painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller ; each member gave him his ; and, to suit the room, a shorter 
 canvas was used (viz., 36 by 28 inches), but sufficiently long to admit a hand, and still known as the Kit- 
 kat size. The pictures, 42 in number, were removed to Tonson's seat at Barn Elms, where he built a 
 handsome room for their reception. At his death in 1736, Tonson left them to his great-nephew, also 
 an eminent bookseller, who died in 1767. The pictures were then removed to the house of his brother, 
 at Water-Oakley, near Windsor ; and, on his death, to the house of Mr. Baker, of Hertingfordbury, 
 where they now remain. 
 
 Walpole speaks of the Club as " the patriots that saved Britain," as having " its beginning about the 
 Trial of the Seven Bishops in the reign of James II.," and consisting of "the most eminent men who 
 opposed the reign of that arbitrary monarch." Garth wrote some verses for the toasting-glass of the 
 Club, which have immortalized four of the reigning beauties at the commencement of the last century : 
 the Ladies Carlisle, Essex, Hyde, and Wharton. Halifax similarly commemorated the charms of the 
 Duchesses of St. Albans, Beaufort, and Richmond ; Ladies Sunderland and Mary Churchill ; and Mdlle. 
 Spanheime. 
 
 LAW lysTiTUTioy, the, west side of Chancery-lane, was built in 1832 (Vulliamy, 
 architect), for the Law Society of the United Kingdom ; and combines a valuable 
 library with a hall and office of registry, with Club accommodation. The Chancery- 
 lane front has a Grecian-Ionic portico, with a pediment of considerable beauty ; and 
 the Club front in Bell-yard resembles that of an Italian palace. The Society consists 
 of attorneys, solicitors, and proctors practising in Great Britain and Ireland, and of 
 Writers to the Scottish Signet and Courts of Justice ; and certificates of attorneys and 
 solicitors must be registered here before granted by the Commissioners of Stamps. 
 Law lectures, limited to one hour, are delivered here during term in the Great Hall. 
 
 LITERARY CLTJB, the, was founded in 1764 by a knot of good and great men, who 
 met at the Turk's Head Tavern, in Soho, first at the corner of Greek-street and Comp- 
 ton-street, and subsequently iu Gerard-street, the founders being Sir Joshua Reynolds 
 and Dr. Johnson. The members were limited to nine, including Reynolds, Johnson, 
 Hawkins, and Burke, and Goldsmith, notwithstanding Hawkins's objection to Oliver as 
 " a mere literary drudge." The members met one evening at seven for supper, in 
 1772. The supper was changed to a dinner, and the members increased to twenty, 
 and it was at length resolved that it should never exceed forty. In 1783 the land- 
 lord died, and the tavern was converted into a private house. The members then re- 
 moved to Prince's, in Sackville-street ; and on this house being soon shut up they 
 removed to Baxter's, afterwards Thomas's, in Dover-street. In 1792 they removed to 
 Parsloe's, in St. James's-street, and thence to the Thatched House, in the same street. 
 The reader will recollect Lord Chancellor Thurlow's rough reply to the prim Peer, 
 who, in a debate in the House of Lords, having pompously cited certain resolutions 
 passed by a party of noblemen and gentlemen at the Thatched House, said, " As to 
 what the noble Lord in the red ribbon told us he had heard at the ale-house," &c. 
 From the time of Garrick's death, the Club was known as " The Literary Club," since 
 which it has certainly lost its claim to this epithet. It was originally a club of authors 
 ty profession ; it now numbers few except titled members, which was very far from 
 the intention of the founders. The name of the Club is now " The Johnson." 
 
 The centenary of the Club was commemorated in 1864 at the Clarendon, when were present in the ' 
 chair, the Dean of St. Paul's ; his Excellency M. van de Weyer, Earls Clarendon and Stanhope, the 
 Bishops of London and Oxford ; Lords Brougham, Stanley, Cranworth, Kingsdown, and Harry Vane ; 
 the Right Hon. Sir Edmund Head, Spencer Walpole, and Robert Lowe ; Sir Henry Holland, Sir C. East- 
 lake, Sir Roderick Murchison, Vice-Chancellor Sir W. Page Wood, the Master of Trinity, Professor 
 Owen, Mr. G. Grote, Mr. C. Austen, Mr. H. Reeve, and Mr. G. Richmond. Among the few members 
 prevented from attending were the Duke of Argyll, the Earl of Carlisle, Earl Russell, the Chancellor of 
 the Exchequer, Lord Overstone, Lord Glenelg, and Mr. W. Stirling. Mr. N. W. Senior, who was the 
 political economist of the Club, died a few days previously. The Secretary is Dr. Milman, Dean of St. 
 Paul's ; who keeps the books and archives of the Club; the autographs are valuable. Among the me- 
 morials is the portrait of Sir Joshua Reynolds, with spectacles on, which he painted and presented to 
 the Club. See Club Ltfe of London, vol. i. pp. 204218. 1866.
 
 252 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 MERMAID CLUB, the, was long said to have been held in Friday-street, Cheap- 
 side; but Ben Jonson has settled it in Bread-street; and Mr. \V. Hunter, in his 
 Notes on Shalcspeare, has, in a schedule of 1603, " Mr. Johnson, at the Mermaid, in 
 Bread-street." Mr. Burn, in the Beaufoy Catalogue, explains : " The Mermaid in 
 Bread-street, the Mermaid in Friday-street, and the Mermaid in Cheap, were all one 
 and the same. The tavern, situated behind, had a way to it from these thoroughfares, 
 but was nearer to Bread-street than Friday-street." Mr. Burn adds, in a note, " The 
 site of the Mermaid is clearly defined, from the circumstance of W. R., a haberdasher 
 of small wares, ' 'twixt Wood-street and Milk-street,' adopting the same sign ' over 
 against the Mermaid Tavern in Cheapside.' " The tavern was destroyed in the Great Fire. 
 
 Here Sir Walter Ealeigh is traditionally said to have instituted " The Mermaid Club." Gifford has 
 thus described the Club, adopting the tradition and the Friday-street location: "About this time 
 [1603J Jonson probably began to acquire that turn for conviviality for which he was afterwards noted, 
 Sir Walter Raleigh, previously to his unfortunate engagement with the wretched Cobham and others, 
 had instituted a meeting of beaux espriti at the Mermaid, a celebrated tavern in Friday-street. Of this 
 Club, which combined more talent and genius than ever met together before or since, our author wa " 
 
 the wits attended it under his presidency, and you will have made a real contribution to our knowledge 
 of Shakspeare's time, even if you fail to show that our Poet was a member of that Club." The tradition, 
 it is thought, must be added to the long list of Shakspearian doubts. Nevertheless, Fuller has described 
 the wit-combats between Shakspeare and Ben Jonson, which he beheld meaning with his mind's eye ; 
 for he was only eight years old when Shakspeare died. Club Life of London, vol. i. p. 91. 1866. 
 
 MULBEBBIES, the, a Club originated in 1824, at the Wrekin Tavern, Covent- 
 garden, with the regulation that some paper, or poem, or conceit, bearing upon 
 Shakspeare, should be contributed by each member. Hither came Douglas Jerrold 
 and Laman Blanchard, William Godwin, Kenny Meadows ; Elton, the actor ; and 
 Chatfield, the artist ; " that knot of wise and jocund men, then unknown, but gaily 
 struggling." The Mulberries' Club gathered a number of contributions, " mulberry- 
 leaves," but they have not been printed. The name of the Club was changed to the 
 Shakspeare, when it was joined by Charles Dickens, Justice Talfburd, Maclise, 
 Macready, Frank Stone, &c. The Mulberries' meetings are embalmed in Jerrold's 
 Cakes and Ale. There were other Clubs of this class, as the Gratis and the Rationals, 
 the Hooks and Eyes and Our Club. 
 
 MUSEUM CLUB, the, at the north end of Northumberland-street, was established in 
 1847, as " a properly modest and real literary Club." Jerrold, and Mahony (Father 
 Prout) enjoyed their " intellectual gladiatorship" at the Museum ; but its life was brief. 
 
 NATIONAL CLUB-HOUSE, 1, Whitehall-gardens, has a noble saloon, 80 feet in length, 
 hung with large tapestry pictures, in the manner of Teniers : they are of considerable 
 age, yet fresh in colour. 
 
 NATAL CLUB, THE ROYAI, originated as follows : About the year 1674, according 
 to a document in the possession of Mr. Fitch, of Norwich, a Naval Club was started 
 " for the improvement of a mutuall Society, and an encrease of Love and Kindness 
 amongst them ;" and that consummate seaman, Admiral Sir John Kempthorne, was 
 declared Steward of the institution. This was the precursor of the Royal Naval Club 
 of 1765, which, whether considered for its amenities or its extensive charities, may be 
 justly cited as a model establishment. (Admiral Smyth's Rise and Progress of the 
 Royal Society Club, p. 9.) The members of this Club annually distribute a con- 
 siderable sum among the distressed widows and orphans of those who have spent their 
 days in the naval service of their country. The Club was accustomed to dine together 
 at the Thatched House Tavern, on the anniversary of the Battle of the Nile. It is 
 confined exclusively to members of the Naval Service : it "has numbered among its 
 members men from the days of Boscawen, Rodney, and the ' first of June' downwards. 
 It was a favourite retreat for William IV. when Duke of Clarence; and his comrade, 
 Sir Philip Durham, the survivor of Nelson, and almost the last of the " old school," 
 frequented it.
 
 CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 253 
 
 NAVAL AND MILITARY CLUB, the, 94, Piccadilly Cambridge House, the town 
 residence of the late Viscount Palmerston. 
 
 NOVIOITAGIANS. The more convivially-disposed members of learned London Socie- 
 ties have, from time to time, formed themselves into Clubs. The Eoyals have done 
 so, ab initio. The Antiquaries appear to have given up their Club and their Anniver- 
 sary Dinner ; but certain of the Fellows, resolving not to remain impransi, many years 
 since, formed a Club, styled " Noviomagians," from the identification of the Roman 
 station of Noviomagus being just then reputedly discovered. 
 
 One of the Club-founders was Mr. A. J. Kempe; and Mr. Crofton Croker was president more than 
 twenty years. Lord Londesborough, Mr. Corner, the Southwark antiquary, and Mr. Fairholt, were also 
 Noviomagians; and in the present Club-list are Sir William Betham, Mr. Godwin, Mr. S. C. Hall, Mr. 
 Lemon, &c. The Members dine together once a month, during the season. Joking minutes are kept, 
 among which are found many known names, either as visitors or associates : Theodore Hook, Sir 
 Henry Ellis, Britton, Dickens, Thackeray, John Bruce, Jordan, Planche', Bell, Maclise, &e. The wits have 
 found Arms for the Club, with a butter-boat rampant for the crest. In 1855, Lord Mayor Moon, F.S.A., 
 entertained the Noviomagians at the Mansion House. 
 
 OCTOBER CLUB, named from its " October ale," was formed at the Bell Tavern, King- 
 street, Westminster, and, in 1710, were for impeaching every member of the Whig party, 
 and for turning out every placeman who did not wear their colours, and shout their cries. 
 Swift was great at the October Club : in a letter, February 10, 1710-11, he says : 
 
 " We are plagued here with an October Club ; that is, a set of above a hundred Parliament-men of 
 the country, who drink October beer at home, and meet every evening at a tavern near the Parliament, 
 to consult'affairs, and drive things on to extremes against the Whigs, to call the old ministry to account, 
 and get off five or six heads." Swift's Advice humbly offered to the Members of the October C'ub had the 
 desired efi'eet of softening some, and convincing others, until the whole body of malcontents was first 
 divided and finally dissolved. 
 
 The red-hot " tantivies," for whose loyalty the October Club was not thorough-going 
 enough, seceded from the original body, and formed the March Club, more Jacobite 
 and rampant in its hatred of the Whigs than the Society from which it branched. 
 
 ORIENTAL CLUB, the, was established in 1824, by Sir John Malcolm, the traveller 
 and brave soldier. The members were noblemen and gentlemen associated with the 
 administration of our Eastern empire, or who had travelled or resided in Asia, at St. 
 Helena, in Egypt, at the Cape of Good rfope, the Mauritius, or at Constantinople. 
 The Oriental was erected in 1827-8, by B. and P. Wyatt, and has the usual Club cha- 
 racteristic of only one tier of windows above the ground-floor; the interior has since 
 been redecorated and embellished by Collman. The Alfred, in 1855, joined the 
 Oriental, which had been designated by hackney-coachmen as " the Horizontal Club." 
 "Enter it," said the New Monthly Magazine, some thirty years since, "it looks 
 like an hospital, in which a smell of curry-powder pervades the 'wards' wards 
 filled with venerable patients, dressed in nankeen shorts, yellow stockings and gaiters, 
 and facings to match. There may still be seen pigtails in all their pristine perfection. 
 It is the region of calico shirts, returned writers, and guinea-pigs grown into bores. 
 Such is the nabolery into which Harley -street, Wimpole-street, and Gloucester-place 
 daily empty their precious stores of bilious humanity." Time has blunted the point of 
 this satiric picture, the individualities of which had passed away, even before the amal- 
 gamation of the Oriental with the Alfred. 
 
 OXFORD AND CAMBRIDGE CLUB-HOUSE, 71, Pall Mall, for members of the two 
 Universities, was designed by Sir Robert Smirke, R.A., and his brother, Sydney 
 Smirke, 1835-8. The Pall Mall facade is 80 feet in width by 75 in height, and the 
 rear lies over against the court of Marlborough House. The ornamental detail is very 
 rich : as the entrance-portico, with Corinthian columns ; the balcony, with its panels 
 of metal foliage ; and the ground-story frieze, and arms of Oxford and Cambridge 
 Universities over the portico columns. The upper part of the building has a delicate 
 Corinthian entablature and balustrade ; and above the principal windows are bas-reliefs 
 in panels, executed in cement by Nicholl, from designs by Sir R. Smirke, R. A. 
 
 Centre panel : Minerva and Apollo presiding on Mount Parnassus ; and the river Helicon, surrounded 
 by the Muses. Extreme panels : Homer singing to a warrior, a female, and a youth ; Virgil singing his 
 Georgics to a group of peasants. Other four panels: Milton reciting to his daughter; Shakspeare 
 attended by Tragedy and Comedy ; Newton explaining his system ; Bacon, his philosophy. 
 
 Beneath the ground-floor is a basement of offices, and an entresol or mezzanine of 
 chambers. The principal apartments are tastefully decorated : the drawing-room is
 
 254 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 panelled with papier-mache; and the libraries are filled with book-cases of beautifully- 
 marked Russian birch-wood. From the library rearward is a view of Marlborough 
 House and its gardens. 
 
 PALL MALL was noted for its tavern Clubs more than two centuries since. " The 
 first time that Pepys mentions Pell Mell," writes Cunningham, " is under the 26th of 
 July, 1660, where he says, ' We went to Wood's' (our old house for clubbing), ' and 
 there we spent till ten at night.' This is not only one of the earliest references to 
 Pall Mall as an inhabited locality, but one of the earliest uses of the word ' clubbing/ 
 in its modern signification of a Club, and additionally interesting, seeing that the street 
 still maintains what Johnson would have called its ' clubbable' character. In Spence's 
 Anecdotes (Supplemental), we read : " There was a Club held at the King's Head, in 
 Pall Mall, that arrogantly called itself ' The World.' Lord Stanhope then (now Lord 
 Chesterfield), Lord Herbert, &c., were members. Epigrams were proposed to be 
 written on the glasses, by each member, after dinner ; once, when Dr. Young was in- 
 vited thither, the Doctor would have declined writing, because he had no diamond ; 
 Lord Stanhope lent him his, and he wrote immediately : 
 
 " ' Accept a miracle, instead of wit ; 
 
 See two dull lines with Stanhope's pencil writ.' " 
 
 The first modern Club mansion in Pall Mall was No. 86, opened as a subscription 
 house, called the Albion Hotel. It was originally built for Edward Duke of York, 
 brother of George III., and is now the office of Ordnance (correspondence). 
 
 The south side of Pall Mall has a truly patrician air in its seven costly Club-houses, 
 of exceedingly rich architectural character, and reminding one of Captain Morris's 
 luxurious resource : 
 
 " In town let me live then, in town let me die ; 
 For in truth I can't relish the country, not I. 
 If one must have a villa in summer to dwell, 
 Oh, give me the sweet shady side of Pall Mall." 
 
 /" PARTHENOK CLTJB-HOTJSE, east side of Regent-street, nearly facing St. Philip's 
 Chapel, was designed by Nash : the first floor is elegant Corinthian. The south divi- 
 sion was built by Mr. Nash for his own residence ; it has a long gallery, decorated from 
 a loggia, of the Vatican at Rome : it is now the " Gallery of Illustration." The 
 Parthenon Club, now no longer in existence, was taken by Mr. Poole, for his memorable 
 paper, " The Miseries of a Club," in the New Monthly Magazine. 
 
 PHCENIX CLTTB, 17, St. James's-place, consists of the Public Schools' Club, amal- 
 gamated with the Universities Union, and intended to include gentlemen educated at 
 the Universities and Public Schools, together with Woolwich, Sandhurst, and Royal 
 Naval College. 
 
 PORTLAND CLTJB, 1, Stratford-place, Oxford-street. 
 PBINCE OF WALES'S CLTTB, 43, Albemarle-street. 
 PEINCE OF WALES'S YACHT CLOT, Freemasons' Tavern. 
 
 REFORM CLTTB-HOUSE, between the Travellers' and Carlton Club-houses, has a 
 frontage in Pall Mall of 135 feet, being nearly equal to that of the Athenaeum (76 feet) 
 and Travellers' (74 feet). The Reform Club was established by Liberal Members of 
 the two Houses of Parliament, to aid the carrying of the Reform Bill, 1830-32. The 
 Reform was built in 1838-39, from the designs of Barry, R.A. ; and resembles the 
 Farnese Palace at Rome, designed by Michael Angelo Buonarotti, in 1545. The Club- 
 house contains six floors and 134 apartments : the basement and mezzanine below the 
 street pavement, and the chambers in the roof, are not seen. 
 
 The points most admired are extreme simplicity and unity of design, combined with very unusual 
 richness. The breadth of the piers between the windows contributes not a little to that repose which 
 is so essential to simplicity, and hardly less so to stateliness. The string-courses are particularly beau- 
 tiful, while the cornicione (68 feet from the pavement) gives extraordinary majesty and grandeur to the 
 whole. The roof is covered with Italian tiles ; the edifice is faced throughout with Portland stone, and 
 is a very fine specimen of masonry. 
 
 In the centre of the interior is a grand'hall, 56 feet by 50, resembling an Italian cortile, 
 surrounded by colonnades, below Ionic, and above Corinthian ; the latter is a picture- 
 gallery, where, inserted in the scagliola walls, are whole-length portraits of eminent
 
 CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 
 
 political Reformers. The floor of the hall is tesselated ; and the entire roof is strong 
 diapered flint glass, by Pellatt & Co. The staircase, like that of an Italian palace, 
 leads to the upper gallery of the hall, opening into the principal drawing-room, which 
 is over the coffee-room in the garden front, both being the entire length of the build- 
 ing; adjoining are a library, card-room, &c., over the library and dining-rooms. 
 Above are a billiard-room and lodging-rooms for members of the Club ; there being a 
 separate entrance to the latter by a lodge adjoining the Travellers' Club. 
 
 The basement comprises two-storied wine-cellars beneath the hall, besides the Kitchen Department, 
 planned by Alexis Soyer, originally chef-de-cuisine of the Club : it contains novel employments of steam 
 and gas, and mechanical applications of practical ingenuity, the inspection of which was long one of the 
 privileged sights of London. The cuisine, under M. Soyer, enjoyed European fame, fully testified in a 
 magnificent banquet given by the Club to Ibraham Pasha, July 3, 1846. Another famous banquet was 
 that given July 20, 1850, to Viscount Palmerston, who was a popular leader of the Reform. This fes- 
 tival was, gastronomically as well as politically, a brilliant triumph. 
 
 REFOBM CLTJB, JUNIOB ; Club-house to be erected in Jennyn-street. 
 
 ROBIX Hoot), the, was a Debating Society, which met, in the reign of George II., 
 at a house in Essex-street, Strand, at which questions were proposed for discussion, and 
 any member might speak seven minutes ; after which, " the baker," who presided with 
 a hammer, summed up the arguments. Arthur Mainwaring and Dr. Hugh Chamber- 
 lain were early members ; and the Club was visited by M. Beaumont, as a curiosity, in 
 1761. This was the scene of Burke's earliest eloquence. Goldsmith came here, and 
 was struck by the imposing aspect of the President, who sat in a large gilt chair. 
 
 ROTA, the, or COFFEE CLTTB, as Pepys calls it, was founded in 1659, as a kind of 
 Debating Society for the dissemination of republican opinions, which Harrington had 
 painted in their fairest colours in his Oceana. It met in New Palace Yard, at the then 
 Turk's Head, " where they take water, the next house to the staires, at one Miles's, where 
 was made purposely a large ovall-table, with a passage in the middle for Miles to deliver his 
 coffee." Here Harrington gave nightly lectures on the advantage of a commonwealth 
 and of the ballot. The Club derived its name from a plan, which it was its design to 
 promote, for changing a certain number of Members of Parliament annually by rota- 
 tion. Sir William Petty was one of its members. Round the table, " in a room every 
 evening as full as it could be crammed," says Aubrey, sat Milton and Marvell, Cyriac 
 Skinner, Harrington, Nevill, and their friends, discussing abstract political questions. 
 Aubrey calls them " disciples and virtuosi." The Club was broken up at the Restoration. 
 
 Dr. Nash notes : " Mr. James Harrington, sometime in the service of Charles I., 
 drew up and printed a form of popular government, after the King's death, entitled 
 the Commonwealth of Oceana. He endeavoured likewise to promote his scheme by 
 public discourses, at a nightly Club of several curious gentlemen, Henry Nevil, Charles 
 Wolseley, John Wildman, Dr. (afterwards Sir William) Petty, who met in New 
 Palace-yard, Westminster. Mr. Henry Nevil proposed to the House of Commons that 
 a third part of its members should rote out by ballot every year, and be incapable of re- 
 election for three years to come. This Club was called the Rota." 
 
 ROXBUEGHE CLUB, the, was founded by the Rev. T. Frognall (afterwards Dr.) 
 Dibdin, at the St. Albans Tavern, St. James's, on June 17, 1812, immediately after the 
 sale of the rarest lot in the Roxburghe Library, viz., II Decamerone di Boccaccio, which 
 produced 2260Z. The members were limited to 24, subsequently extended to 31. 
 
 The President of this Club was the second Earl Spencer. Among the most celebrated members were 
 the Duke of Devonshire, the Marquis of Blandford (the late Duke of Marlborough), Lord Altborp (late 
 Karl Spencer), Lord Morpcth (afterwards Earl of Carlisle), Lord Gower (afterwards Earl of Carlisle), Sir 
 Masterman Sykes, Sir Egerton Brydges, Mr. (afterwards Baron) Holland, Mr. Dent, Mr. Townley, Rev. T. 
 C. Heber, Rev. Rob. Hoi well Carr, Sir Walter Scott, &c. : Dr. Dibdin being Secretary. The avowed object 
 of the Club was the reprinting of rare and neglected pieces of ancient literature ; and, at one of the 
 early meetings, " it was proposed and concluded for each member of the Club to reprint a scarce piece 
 of ancient lore, to be given to the members, one copy being on vellum for the chairman, and only as inany 
 copies as members." It may, however, be questioned whether the " dinners " of the Club were not more 
 important than the literature. They were given at the St. Albans', at Grillion's, at the Clarendon, and 
 the Albion Taverns. Of these entertainments some curious details have been recorded by Mr. Joseph 
 Haslewood, one of the members, in a MS., entitled "Roxburghe Bevels; or, an Account of the Annual 
 Display, culinary and fettivous, interspersed with Matters of Moment or Merriment :" a selection from 
 its rarities has appeared in the Athenceum : at the second dinner, Mr. Heber in the chair, a few tarried 
 until, " on arriving at home, the click of time bespoke a quarter to four." Among the early members 
 was the Rev. Mr. Dodd, one of the masters of Westminster School, who, until 1818 (when he died), 
 enlivened the Club with Eobin Hood ditties. At the fourth dinner, at Grillion's, Sir Masterman Sykes
 
 256 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 chairman, 20 members present, the bill was 571. At the Anniversary, 1818, at the Albion, Mr. Heber in. 
 the chair, 15 present, the bill was 85?. 9*. 6d., or 5?. Us. each; including turtle, 12?. 10s. ; venison, lo/. 10*. ; 
 and wine, 30*. 17. " Ancients, believe it," says Haslewood, " we were not dead drunk, and therefore lie 
 quiet under the table for once, and let a few moderns be uppermost." 
 
 The Roxburglie Club still exists : it may justly be considered to have suggested the 
 publishing Societies of the present day ; as the Camden, Shakspeare, Percy, &c. 
 
 ROYAL SOCIETY CLUB, the, was founded in 1743, and was at first styled "the Club 
 of Royal Philosophers." It originated some years earlier with Dr. Halley and a few 
 friends, who dined together once a week ; at length, they removed to the Mitre Tavern, 
 No. 39, Fleet-street, to be handy to the Royal Society, which then met in Crane- 
 court. In 1780, the Club removed to the Crown and Anchor Tavern, in the Strand ; 
 in 1848, to the Freemasons' Tavern : and thence, when the Royal Society removed to 
 Burlington House, Piccadilly, the Club removed to the Thatched House Tavern, St. 
 Jarnes's-street. The dinners were plain, black-puddings figuring for many years at 
 each repast. The presents made to the Club became very numerous ; and haunches of 
 venison, turtle, and game, were rewarded by the donors' healths being drunk in claret. 
 The circumnavigator, Lord Anson, presented the Club with a magnificent turtle ; and 
 on another occasion with a turtle which weighed 4001bs. James Watt dined at one of 
 these turtle-feasts ; " and never was turtle eaten with greater sobriety and tempe- 
 rance, or with more good fellowship." Then we find mighty chines of beef, and large 
 carp among the presents ; and Lord Macartney sent " two pigs of the China breed." 
 Fruits were presented for dessert; and Philip Miller, who wrote the Gardener's Dic- 
 tionary, sent Egyptian Cos lettuces, the best kind known ; and Cantaloupe melons, equal 
 in flavour to pine-apples. For thirty years the Club received these presents in lieu of 
 admission-money, until thinking it undignified to do so, the practice was discontinued. 
 The charge for dinner rose from 1*. 6d. to 10s., and 2d. to the waiter ! Then, the 
 Club laid in its own wine, at Is. Gd. per bottle, and the landlord charged 2s. 6d. The 
 consumption of wine, per head, of late, averaged less than a pint each. 
 
 "Among the distinguished guests of the Club are many celebrities. Here the chivalrous Sir Sidney 
 Smith described the atrocities of Djezza Pasha; and here that cheerful baronet Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin 
 
 Dass, Tuckey, Horsburgh, &c. ; while the Polar explorers, from the Hon. Constantine Phipps in 1773, 
 down to Sir Leopold M'Clintock, in I860, were severally and individually welcomed as guests. But, 
 besides our sterling sea-worthies, we find in ranging through the documents that some rather outlandish 
 visitors were introduced through their means, as Chet Quang and Wanga Tong, Chinese ; Ejutak and 
 Tuklivina, Esquimaux ; Thayen-danega, the Mohawk chief; while Omai, of Ularetea, the celebrated and 
 popular savage, of Cook's Voyages, was so frequently invited, that he is latterly entered on the Club 
 papers simply as Mr. Omai." Admiral Smyth's Account of the Royal Society Club ; Club Life of 
 London, vol. i. pp. 65-81. 1866. 
 
 ROYAL THAMES YACHT CLUB, 49, St. James's-street. 
 
 SCEIBLEEXTS CLUB, the, was founded by Swift, in 1714, in place of " the Brothers ;" 
 it was rather of a literary than political character. Oxford and St. John, Swift, 
 Arbuthnot, Pope, and Gay> were members. Oxford and Bolingbroke led the way, by 
 their mutual animosity, to the dissolution of the Club ; when Swift made a final effort 
 at reconciliation, but failing, retreated in dudgeon. See BEOTHEES CLUB, p. 244. 
 
 SMITHFIELD CLUB, the, Half-moon-street, has the management of the Cattle Show- 
 held annually at the Agricultural Hall, Islington, and the award of Silver Cups and 
 Gold and Silver Medals as prizes for Stock, Implements, &c., exhibited. 
 
 " The Smithfleld Cattle and Sheep Society " was instituted December 17, 1798, by a party of noble- 
 men and gentlemen, amongst whom were most conspicuous Francis, Duke of Bedford ; the Karl of 
 "Winchelsea, Lord Spmerville, and Sir Joseph Banks. 
 
 The Club has shifted its scene of annual display several times. In 1799 and 1800, the Club exhibited 
 in Wootton's Livery-stables, Dolphin-yard, Smithfield; in 1804, the Show was held in the Swan-yard- 
 in 1805, at Dixon's Repository, Barbican; in 1808, in Sadler's-yard, Goswell-street; and in 1839 the 
 Club, moving westward, gave its first exhibition in Baker-street. From Mr. Brandreth Gibbs's H'utoi-t/ 
 of the Origin and Progress of the Smithfield Club, we learn that, at the first exhibition, the Club only 
 received from the public 40Z. 3s. The receipts of the first Baker-street Show were 3002. ; and in 1857 
 no less a sum than 7001. was taken at the doors. The prizes annually distributed have increased as 
 follows : value in 1799, 50 guineas; 1800, 120 guineas; 1810, 220 guineas ; and in 1840 plate and money 
 330/,. ; and hi 1857, 1050Z. Concurrent with the early career of the Smithfield Club were the Spring 
 Cattle Shows, established by Lord Somerville, who, in 1805, at bis own cost, gave six prizes amount 
 the exhibitors was George the Third.
 
 CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 257 
 
 The Duchess of Rutland became a member of the Smithfield Club in 1823; and the Queen visited 
 the Show in Baker-street in 1844, and again in 1850. The Royal visit in 1844 is believed to be the first 
 occasion of an agricultural show being attended by the Sovereign of Great Britain ; but it was not the 
 first time that Royalty took an interest in the Club shows. George the Third was an exhibitor in 1800; 
 the Duke of York gained a prize in 1806 ; and the Prince Consort, who, together with the late Duke of 
 Cambridge, became a member of the Club in 1841, carried oft' several prizes at the Baker-street exhibi- 
 tions with animals fed at the " Royal Flemish" and " Royal Shaw "farms. The silver-cup and the 
 shepherd-smock schools combined for the same good end the production of delicious meat at moderate 
 prices ; and he will not act inappropriately who, whilst thanking God for his Christmas-dinner, has a 
 grateful recollection of the men who contributed to bring the Roast Beef of Old England to its present 
 perfection. Athenasum, No. 1728, abridged. 
 
 THATCHED HOUSE. Admiral Smyth, in 1860, gave the following list of Cluhs, 
 which then dined at the Thatched House Tavern, St. James's-street : 
 
 Actuaries, Institute of; Catch Club; Johnson's Club; Dilettanti Society; Farmers' Club; Geo- 
 graphical Club ; Geological Club; Linnseau Club ; Literary Society; Navy Club; Philosophical Club; 
 Physicians, College of, Club ; Political Economy Club; Royal Academy Club ; Royal Astronomical Club; 
 Royal Institution' Club ; Royal London Yacht Club; Royal Naval Club (1765); Royal Society Club; St. 
 A Iban's Medical Club; St. Bartholomew's Contemporaries; Star Club; Statistical Club ; Sussex Club; 
 Union Society, St. James's. Account of the Royal Society Club, privately printed. 
 
 Ton's CoFFEE-norsE CLUB, the, was held at 17, north side of Russell-street, 
 Covent-garden ; the house was taken down in 1865. The original proprietor was 
 Thomas West, who died in 1722. The upper portion of the premises was the coffee- 
 house, under which lived T. Lewis, the original publisher, in 1711, of Pope's Essay on 
 Criticism, In The Journey through England, 1714, we read, " There was at Tom's 
 Coffee-house playing at piquet, and the best conversation till midnight ; blue and green 
 ribbons with stars, sitting and talking familiarly." M. Grignon, sen., had seen " the 
 balcony of Tom's crowded with noblemen in their stars and garters, drinking their tea 
 and coffee, exposed to the people." In 1764 was formed here, by a guinea subscrip- 
 tion, a Club of nearly 700 members. 
 
 On the Club-books we find " Long Sir Thomas Robinson ;" Samuel Foote; Arthur Murphy, lately 
 called to the Bar; David Garrick, who then lived in Southampton-street (though he was not a clubbable 
 man) ; John Beard, the fine tenor singer ; John Webb ; Sir Richard Glynne ; Robert Gosling, the banker ; 
 Colonel Eyre, of Marylebone; Earl Percy; Sir John Fielding, the justice; Paul Methuen, of Corsham; 
 Richard Clive ; the great Lord Clive; the eccentric Duke of Montagu; Sir Fletcher Norton, the ill- 
 mannered; Lord Edward Bentinck ; Dr. Samuel Johnson ; the celebrated Marquis of Granby ; Sir F. B. 
 Delaval, the friend of Foote ; William Tooke, the solicitor ; the Hon. Charles Howard, sen. ; the Duke of 
 Northumberland; Sir Francis Gosling; the Earl of Anglesey; Sir George Brydges Rodney (afterwards 
 Lord Rodney); Peter Burrell; Walpole Eyre; Lewis Mendez; Dr. Swinney; Stephen Lushington; 
 John Gunning ; Henry Brougham, father of Lord Brougham; Dr. Macnamara; Sir John Trevelyan; 
 Captain Donellan ; SirW. Wolseley; Walter Chetwynd ; Viscount Gage, &c. ; Thomas Payne, Esq., of 
 Leicester House ; Dr. Schomberg, of Pall Mall ; George Column, the dramatist, then living in Great 
 Queen-street; Dr. Dodd, in Southampton-row ; James Payne, the architect, Salisbury-street, which he 
 rebuilt ; William Bowyer, the printsr, Bloomsbury-square ; Count Bruhl, the Polish Minister ; Dr. Gold- 
 smith, Temple (1773), &c. Many a noted name in the list of 700 is very suggestive of the gay society 
 of the period. Among the Club musters, Samuel Foote, Sir Thomas Kobinson, and Dr. Dodd are very 
 frequent : indeed, Sir Thomas seems to have been something like a proposer-general. 
 
 Dance painted the elder Haines, the landlord, who, for his polite address, was called 
 among the Club " Lord Chesterfield." The coffee-house business closed in 1814, 
 when the premises became occupied by Mr. William Till, the well-known numismatist ; 
 the card-room and club-tables in their original condition. On the death of Mr. Till, 
 I\Ir. Webster succeeded to the tenancy and collection of coins and medals, which here- 
 moved to No. 6, Henrietta-street ; he possesses, by marriage with the grand-daughter 
 of the second Mr. Haines, the Club-books ; as well as the Club-room snuff-box, of large 
 size, tortoiseshell ; upon the lid, in high relief, in silver, are the portraits of Charles I. 
 and Queen Anne, the Boscobel oak, with Charles II. amid its branches, &c. See 
 Illustrated London News, 1865. 
 
 TBAYEI/LEBS' CLTJB-HOTJSE, adjoining the Athenceum, in Pall Mall, was designed by 
 Barry, R.A., and built in 1832. The architecture is the nobler Italian, resembling a ' 
 Roman palace : the plan is a quadrangle, with an open area in the middle, so that all 
 the rooms are well lighted. The Pall Mall front has a bold and rich cornice, and the 
 windows are decorated with Corinthian pilasters; the garden- front varies in the 
 windows ; but the Italian taste is preserved throughout, with the most careful finish : 
 the roof is Italian tiles. The Travellers' Club originated shortly after the Peace of 
 1814, in a suggestion of the late Marquis of Londonderry, then Lord Castlereagh, with 
 a view to a resort for gentlemen who had resided or travelled abroad ; as well as 
 
 S
 
 258 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON 
 
 accommodation of foreigners, who, when properly recommended, receive an invitation 
 for the period of their stay. (Quarterly Review, No. HO, 1836.) By one of the rules, 
 " no person is eligible to the Travellers' Club who shall not have travelled out of the 
 British Islands to a distance of at least 500 miles from London in a direct line." 
 Prince Talleyrand, during his residence in London, generally joined the muster of 
 whist-players at this Club. 
 
 TREASON CLUB, the, at the time of the Eevolution, met at the Rose Tavern, Covent- 
 garden, to consult with Lord Colchester, Mr. Thomas Wharton, and many others ; 
 and it was then resolved that the regiment under Lieutenant-Colonel Langdale's 
 command should desert entire, as it did, on a Sunday, November, 1688. 
 
 UNION CLUB-HOUSE, Cockspur-street, and west side of Trafalgar-square, was com- 
 pleted in 1824, from designs by Sir R. Smirke, R.A. James Smith (" Rejected Ad- 
 dresses") has left us a sketch of his every-day life at this Club : 
 
 " At three o'clock I walk to the Union Club, read the journals, hear Lord John Russell deified or 
 diablerised, do the same with Sir Robert Peel or the Duke of Wellington, and then join a knot of con- 
 versationists by the fire till six o'clock, consisting of lawyers, merchants, and gentlemen at large. We 
 then and there discuss the Three per Cent. Consols (some of us preferring Dutch two-and-a-half per 
 Cents.), and speculate upon the probable rise, shape, and cost of the New Exchange. If Lady Harrington 
 happen to drive past our window in her landau, we compare her equipage to the Algerine Ambassador's ; 
 and when poll tics happen to be discussed, rally Whigs, Radicals, and Conservatives alternately, but never 
 seriously, such subjects having a tendency to create acrimony. At six, the room begins to be deserted ; 
 wherefore I adjourn to the dining-room, and gravely looking over the bill of fare, exclaim to the waiter, 
 ' Haunch of mutton and apple-tart !' These viands despatched, with the accompanying liquids and 
 water, I mount upward to the library, take a book and my seat in the arm-chair, and read till nine. Then 
 call for a cup of coffee and a biscuit, resuming my book till eleven j afterwards return home to bed." 
 Comic Miscellanies. 
 
 The Union has a capital smoking-room, with paintings by Stanfield and Roberts. 
 The Club has ever been famed for its cuisine, upon the strength of which we fare 
 told that next door to the Club-house, in Cockspur-street, was established the Union 
 Hotel, which speedily became renowned for its turtle ; it was opened in 1823, and was 
 one of the best-appointed hotels of its day ; Lord Panmure, a gourmet of the highest 
 order, is said to have taken up his quarters in this hotel, for several successive seasons, 
 for the sake of the soup.* Adams's London Clubs. 
 
 UNITED SERVICE CLUB, the, one of the oldest of modern Clubs, was instituted 
 the year after the Peace of 1815, when a few officers of influence in both branches of 
 the Service had built for them, by Sir R. Smirke, a Club-house at the corner of Charles- 
 street and Regent-street a frigid design, somewhat relieved by sculpture on the 
 entrance-front, of Britannia distributing laurels to her brave sons by land and sea. 
 Thence the Club removed to a more spacious house, in Waterloo-place, facing the 
 Athenamm, the Club-house in Charles-street being entered on by the Junior United 
 Service Club ; but Smirke's cold design has been displaced by an edifice of much more 
 ornate exterior and luxurious internal appliances. The United Service Club (Senior) 
 was designed by Nash, and has a well-planned interior, exhibiting the architect's well- 
 known excellence in this branch of his profession. The principal front facing Pall Mall 
 has a Roman-Doric portico ; and above it a Corinthian portico, with pediment. One of 
 the patriarchal members of the Club was Lord Lynedoch, the hero of the Peninsular 
 War, who lived under five sovereigns : he died in his 93rd year. Stanfield's fine pic- 
 ture of the Battle of Trafalgar ; and a copy by Lane (painted 1851) of a contemporary 
 portrait of Sir Francis Drake ; are amoug the Club pictures. 
 
 The Windham was once considered the most expensive Club, and the United Service the cheapest ; 
 the latter, probably, from the number of absent members. The Duke of Wellington might often be seen 
 dining at this Club on a joint; "and on one occasion, when he was charged 15d. instead of 1*. for it, he 
 bestirred himself till the odd threepence was struck off. The motive was obvious ; he took the trouble 
 of objecting to give his sanction to the principle." Quarterly 'Review, No. 110, 1836. 
 
 UNITED SERVICE CLUB, the JUNIOR, at the corner of Charles-street and Regent- 
 street, was erected upon the site of the former Club-house, by Sir R. Smirke, R.A., 
 in 1855-57, Nelson and James, architects, and is enriched with characteristic sculpture 
 by John Thomas. The design is in the Italian style of architecture, the bay-window 
 
 * The West-end Clubs contribute largely to the feeding of the poor. The Union Club distributed in 
 the \ear 1844, to the poor of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, no less than 3101 Ibs. of broken bread, 4556 Ibs. 
 of broken meat, 114.7 pints of tea-leaves, and 1158 pints of coffee-grounds.
 
 CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES. 259 
 
 in Regent-street forming a prominent feature in the composition, above which is a 
 sculptured group allegorical of the Army and Navy. The whole of the sculpture and 
 ornamental details throughout the building are characteristic of the professions of the 
 members of the Club. Upon the angle-pieces of the balustrade are bronze lamps, sup- 
 ported by figures. The staircase is lighted from the top by a handsome lantern, filled 
 with painted glass. On the landing of the half-space are two pairs of caryatidal 
 figures, and single figures against the walls, supporting three semicircular arches. On 
 the upper landing of the staircase is the celebrated picture, by Allan, of the Battle of 
 Waterloo. The evening-room, which is also used as a picture-gallery, 24 feet high, 
 has a bay-window fronting Regent-street. Here are portraits of military and naval 
 commanders ; Queen Victoria and Prince Albert ; the Emperor Napoleon, and ail 
 allegorical group in silver, presented to the Club by his Imperial Majesty. 
 
 UNIVERSITY CLUB, the, Suffolk-street, Pall Mall East, was instituted in 1824; and 
 the Club-house, designed by Deering and Wilkins, architects, was opened 1826. It is 
 of the Grecian Doric and Ionic orders ; and the staircase walls have casts from the 
 Parthenon frieze. The Club consists chiefly of Members of Parliament who have re- 
 ceived University education ; several of the judges, and a large number of beneficed 
 clergymen. This Club has the reputation of possessing the best-stocked wine-cellar 
 in London, which is of no small importance to members, clerical or lay. 
 
 UNIVERSITIES UNION CLUB-HOUSE, the, is at 20, Cockspur-street, Charing Cross ; 
 and its sphere is intended to embrace all gentlemen whose names have been on the 
 books of any college at Oxford or Cambridge, or Durham, or on those of the Scotch 
 Universities, or of Trinity College, Dublin. 
 
 URBAN CLUB, the, held at St. John's Gate, Clerkenwell, consists of authors, actors, 
 and artists, who meet in the great room of the Tavern over the gateway. 
 
 VOLUNTEEE SERVICE CLUB, 49, St. James's-street. 
 
 WATIER'S CLUB was the great Macao gambling-house of a very short period. Mr. 
 Thomas Raikes, who understood all its mysteries, describes it as very genteel, adding 
 that no one ever quarrelled there, " The Club did not endure for twelve years altogether ; 
 the pace was too quick to last : it died a natural death in 1819, from the paralysed 
 state of its members ; the house was then taken by a set of blacklegs, who instituted a 
 common bank for gambling. To form an idea of the ruin produced by this short-lived 
 establishment among men whom I have so intimately known, a cursory glance to the 
 past suggests the following melancholy list, which only forms a part of its deplorable 
 results None of the dead reached the average age of man." 
 
 In the old days, when gaming was in fashion, at Watier's Club, princes and nobles 
 lost or gained fortunes between themselves. Captain Gronow also relates the following 
 account of the origin of this noted but short-lived Club : 
 
 "Upon one occasion, some gentlemen of both White's and Brooks's had the honour to dine with 
 the Prince Regent, and during the conversation the Prince inquired what sort of dinners they got at 
 their Clubs ; upon which Sir Thomas Stepney, one of the guests, obserred ' that their dinners were 
 always the same, the eternal joints or beef-steaks, the boiled fowl with oyster-sauce, and an apple-tart: 
 this is what we have at our Clubs, and very monotonous fare it is.' The Prince, without further 
 remark, rang the bell for his cook Watier, and, in the presence of those who dined at the Royal table, 
 asked him whether he would take a house, and organize a dinner-club. Watier assented, and named 
 Madison, the Prince's page, manager ; and Labourie, the cook, from the Royal kitchen. The Club 
 flourished only a few years, owing to the night-play that was carried on there. The Duke of York 
 patronized it, and was a member. The dinners were exquisite : the best Parisian cooks could not beat 
 Labourie. The favourite game played there was Macao." 
 
 WEDNESDAY CLUB, in Friday-street, Cheapside. Here, in 1695, certain conferences 
 took place under the direction of William Paterson, which ultimately led to the esta- 
 blishment of the Bank of England. Such is the general belief; but Mr. Saxe Bannister, 
 in his Life of Paterson, p. 93, observes : " It has been a matter of much doubt 
 whether the Bank of England was originally proposed from a Club or Society in the 
 City of London. The Dialogue Conferences of the Wednesday Club, in Friday-street, 
 have been quoted as if first published in 1695. No such publication has been met 
 with of a date before 1706 ;" and Mr. Bannister states his reasons for supposing it was 
 not preceded by any other book. Still, Paterson wrote the papers entitled the Wednesday 
 Club Conferences. 
 
 8 2
 
 260 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 There was likewise a Wednesday Club held at the Globe Tavern, in Fleet-street, 
 where songs, jokes, dramatic imitations, burlesque parodies, and broad sallies of humour 
 were the entertainments ; and Oliver Goldsmith was in his glory. Here was first heard 
 the celebrated epitaph (Goldsmith had been reading Pope and Swift's Miscellanies) on 
 Edward Purdon : 
 
 " Here lies poor Ned Purdon, from misery freed, 
 
 Who long was a bookseller's hack ; 
 He had led such a damnable life in this world, 
 I don't think he'll wish to come back." 
 
 WESTMINSTER CLUB, 23, Albemarle-street. 
 
 WHIST CLUBS originated with whist becoming popular in England about 1730, 
 when it was closely studied by a party of gentlemen, who formed a sort of Club at the 
 \f) \\3 Crown Coffee-house, in Bedford-row. Hoyle is said to have given instructions in the 
 game, for which his charge was a guinea a lesson. A Committee, including members 
 of several of the best London Clubs, well known as whist-players, has drawn up a code 
 of rules for the game ; and these rules, as governing the best modern practice, have 
 been accepted by the Arlington, the Army and Navy, Arthur's, Boodle's, Brooks's, 
 Carlton, Conservative, Garrick, Guards', Junior Carlton, Portland, Oxford and Cam- 
 bridge, Reform, St. James's, White's, &c. The Laws of Short Whist were, in 1865, 
 published in a small volume ; and to this strictly legal portion of the book is appended 
 A Treatise on the Game, by Mr. J. Clay, M.P. for Hull, one of the best modern 
 whist-players. 
 
 WHITE'S (Tory) CLUB-HOUSE, 36 and 37, St. James's-street, has an elegant front, 
 designed by James Wyatt, restored and enriched in 1851 : the medallions of the Four 
 Seasons above the drawing-room story are classic compositions. The Club, as White's 
 Chocolate-house, was originally established about 1698, near the bottom of the west 
 side of St. James's-street : the Club-house, then kept by Mr. Arthur, was burnt down 
 April 28, 1773 ; and plate 6 of Hogarth's " Rake's Progress " shows a room at White's 
 so intent upon then* play, as neither to see the flames nor hear the watchmen, who are 
 bursting into the room to give the alarm. Sir Andrew Fountayne's collection of 
 pictures, valued at 3000Z., was destroyed in the fire ; and the King and the Prince of 
 Wales were present, encouraging the firemen and people to work the engines. In 1736, 
 the principal members of the Club were the Duke of Devonshire, Lord Chesterfield, Sir 
 John Cope, Bubb Doddington, and Colley Gibber : before this date it was an open 
 Chocolate-house. It soon became a gaming Club and a noted supper-house, the dinner- 
 hour being early a century since. Betting was another of its pastimes ; and a book 
 for entering wagers was always laid upon the table. The play here was frightful; it 
 was for White's that Walpole and his friends composed the famous heraldic satire. 
 
 Walpole writes to Sir Horace Mann, Sept. 1,1750: " They have put into the papers a good story 
 made at White's. A man dropped down dead at the door, and was carried in ; the Club immediately 
 made bets whether he was dead or not ; and when they were going to bleed him, the wagerers for his 
 death interposed, and said it would affect the fairness of the bet." 
 
 " At the time that White's Chocolate-house was opened at the bottom of St. James's-street the close 
 of the last century it was probably thought vulgar ; for there was a garden attached, and it had a 
 suburban air. At the tables in the house or garden more than one highwayman took his chocolate, or 
 threw his main, before he quietly mounted his horse, and rode slowly down Piccadilly towards Bag-shot. 
 The celebrated Lord Chesterfield there ' gamed, and pronounced witticisms among the boys of quality.' 
 Steele dated all his love news in the Tatter from White's. It was stigmatized as ' the common rendezvous 
 of infamous sharpers and noble cullies ;' and bets were laid to the effect that Sir William Burdett, one 
 of its members, would be the first baronet who would be hanged. The gambling went on till dawn of day ; 
 and Pelham, when Prime Minister, was not ashamed to divide his time between his official table and the 
 piquet table at White's. White's ceased to be an open Chocolate-house in 1736." Dr. Doran's Table Traits. 
 
 The Club, on June 20, 1814, gave at Burlington-house, to the Allied Sovereigns 
 then in England, a ball, which cost 9489Z. 2*. Qd. ; and on July 6 following, the Club 
 gave a dinner to the Duke of Wellington, which cost 2480Z. 10s. 9d. (See Cunning- 
 ham's Handbook (" White's ") for several very interesting extracts from the Club-books, 
 and from writers of the middle of the last century, " curiously characteristic of the 
 state of society at the time." 
 
 WHITTINGTON CLUB and METROPOLITAN ATHEN.EUM, Arundel-street, originated 
 in 1846 with Mr. Douglas Jerrold, who became its first president. It combines a 
 literary society with a Club-house, upon an economical scale, for the middle classes ; con-
 
 COFFEE-HOUSES. . 261 
 
 taining dininp and coffee-rooms, library and reading-rooms, smoking and chess-rooms ; 
 and a large room for balls, concerts, and soirees. Lectures are given here, ,and classes 
 held for the higher branches of education, fencing and dancing, &c. In the ball-room 
 is a picture of Whittington listening to Bow-bells, painted by F. Newenham, and pre- 
 sented to the Club by its founder. All the original Crown and Anchor premises, 
 wherein the Club first met, were destroyed by fire in 1854 : they have been rebuilt, 
 and the establishment is now styled the Whittington Club. 
 
 WINDHAM CLUB, 11, St. James's-squarc, was founded by the late Lord Nugent, for 
 gentlemen " connected with each other by a common bond of literary or personal 
 acquaintance." The mansion was the residence of William Windham ; next, of the 
 accomplished John Duke of Roxburghe ; and here the Roxburghe Library was sold 
 in 1812, the sale commencing May 18, and extending to forty-one days. Lord Chief- 
 Justice Ellenborough lived here in 1814 ; and subsequently, the Earl of Blessington, 
 who possessed a fine collection of pictures. 
 
 COFFEE-HOUSES. 
 
 /"COFFEE was first drunk in London about the middle of the seventeenth century. 
 vJ " The first coffee-house in London," says Aubrey (MS. in the Bodleian Library), 
 " was in St. M5chael's-alley, in Cornhill, opposite to the church, which was set up by 
 
 one Bowman (coachman to Mr. Hodges, a Turkey merchant, who putt him upon 
 
 it), in or about the year 1652. 'Twas about four yeares before any other was sett up, 
 and that was by Mv. Farr. Jonathan Paynter, over-against to St. Michael's Church, 
 was the first apprentice to the trade, viz., to Bowman." 
 
 Another account states that one Edwards, a Turkey merchant, on his return from 
 the East in 1657, brought with him a Ragusan Greek servant, Pasqua Rosee, who 
 prepared coffee every morning for his master, and with the coachman above named set 
 up the first coffee-house in St. Michael's-alley ; but they soon quarrelled and separated, 
 the coachman establishing himself in St. Michael's churchyard. 
 
 Sir Hans Sloane had in his Museum in Bloomsbury-square, " part of a coffee-tree, with the berriss 
 and leaves thereon ; it was brought over from Moco, in Arabia, by Mr. E. Clive, of London, merchant," 
 who has described it in Philo$. Tram. No. 208. 
 
 Coffee is first mentioned in our statute-book anno 1660 (12 Car. II., c. 24), when a 
 duty of 4d, was laid upon every gallon of coffee made and sold. A statute of 1663 
 directs that all coffee-houses should be licensed at the Quarter Sessions. In 1675, 
 Charles II. issued a proclamation to shut up the coffee-houses, charged with being 
 seminaries of sedition ; but in a few days he suspended this proclamation by a second. 
 
 As coffee declined in fashion, the Coffee-houses mostly became Taverns and Dining- 
 houses, or Chop-houses. The first on our list is an instance. 
 
 BAKER'S COFFEE-HOUSE, 1, Change-alley, Lombard-street, was originally for the 
 sale of coffee, but has been for nearly half a century noted for its chops and steaks, 
 broiled in the coffee-room, and eaten hot from the gridiron. 
 
 BALTIC COFFEE-HOUSE, 58, Threadneeclle-street, is the rendezvous of merchants and 
 brokers connected with the Russian trade, or that in tallow, oil, hemp, and seeds. 
 The supply of news to the subscription-room is, with the exception of the chief London, 
 Liverpool, and Hull papers, confined to that from the north of Europe and the tallow- 
 producing countries on the South American coast. In the upper part of the Baltic 
 Coffee-house is the auction sale-room for tallow, oils, &c. 
 
 BEDFORD COFFEE-HOUSE, " under the Piazza, in Covent Garden," north-east corner, 
 in Memoirs of the Bedford Coffee-house, two editions, 1751-1763, is described as having 
 been " signalized for many years as the emporium of wit, the seat of criticism, and the 
 standard of taste. Names of those who frequented the house : Foote, Mr. Fielding, 
 Mr. Woodward, who mostly lived here, Mr. Leone, Mr. Murphy, Mopsy, Dr. Arne. 
 Dr. Arne was the only man in a suit of velvet in the dog-days. Stacie kept the Bed- 
 ford when John and Henry Fielding, Hogarth, Churchill, Woodward, Lloyd, Dr. 
 Goldsmith, and many others met there and held a gossiping shilling- rubber club. 
 Henry Fielding was a very merry fellow." In the Connoisseur, No. 2, we read :
 
 262. CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 " This Coffee-house is every night crowded with men of parts. Almost every one you 
 meet is a polite scholar and a wit. Jokes and Ion-mots are echoed from box to box : 
 every branch of literature is critically examined, and the merit of every production of 
 the press, or performance of the theatres, weighed and determined." Foote and 
 Garrick often met here. Garrick, in early life, had been in the wine-trade, and had 
 supplied the Bedford with wine ; he was thus described by Foote as living in Durham- 
 yard, with three quarts of vinegar in the cellar, calling himself a wine-merchant. 
 Churchill's quarrel with Hogarth began at the shilling-rubber club, in the Bedford 
 parlour : " Never," says Walpole, " did two angry men of their abilities throw mud 
 with less dexterity." Young Collins, the poet, who came to town in 1744 to seek his 
 fortune, made his way to the Bedford, where Foote was supreme among the wits and 
 critics. Like Foote, Collins was fond of fine clothes, and walked about with a feather 
 in his hat, very unlike a young man who had not a single guinea he could call his own. 
 A letter of the time tells us that " Collins was an acceptable companion everywhere ; 
 and among the gentlemen who loved him for a genius may be reckoned the Doctors 
 Armstrong, Barrowby, Hill, Messrs. Quin, Garrick, and Foote, who frequently took 
 his opinion upon their pieces before they were seen by the public. He was particularly 
 noticed by the geniuses who frequented the Bedford and Slaughter's Coflee-houses." 
 (Memoir, by Moy Thomas.) In 1754, Foote was supreme in his critical corner at the 
 Bedford. The regular frequenters of the room strove to get admitted to his party at 
 supper ; and others got as nearly as they could to the table, as the only humour flowed 
 from Foote's tongue. The Bedford was now in its highest repute : Dr. Barrowby was 
 the great newsmonger of the day. 
 
 Of two houses in the Piazza, built for Francis, Earl of Bedford, we obtain some minute information 
 from the lease granted in 1634 to Sir Edmund Verney, Knight Marshal to King Charles I. ; these two 
 houses being just then erected as part of the Piazza. There are also included in the lease the "yards, 
 stables, coachhouses, and gardens now layd, or hereafter to be layd, to the said messuages," which 
 description of the premises seems to identify them as the two houses at the southern endof the Piazza, ad- 
 joining to Great Russell-street, and now occupied as the Bedford Coffee-house and Hotel. They are either 
 the same premises, or they immediately adjoin the premises, occupied a century later as the Bedford 
 Coffee-house. (Mr. John Bruce, Archtsologia, xxxv. 195.) The lease contained a minute specification 
 of the landlord's fittings and customary accommodations of what were then some of the most fashion- 
 able residences in the metropolis. In the attached schedule is the use of the wainscot, enumerating 
 separately every piece of wainscot on the premises. The tenant is bound to keep in repair the " Portico 
 Walke " underneath the premises ; he is at all times to have " ingresse, egresse and regresse " through 
 the Portico Walk ; and he may " expel, put, or drive away out of the said walke any youth or other 
 person whatsoever which shall eyther play or be in the said Portico Walke in offence or disturbance to 
 the said Sir Edmund Verney." Club Life of London, vol. ii., p. 81, 1866. 
 
 At the present Bedford Coffee-house, or Hotel, the Beef-steak Society met before their 
 removal to the Lyceum Theatre. 
 
 BRITISH COFFEE-HOTTSE, Cockspur-street, " long a house of call for Scotchmen," has 
 been fortunate in its landladies. In 1759, it was kept by the sister of Bishop Douglas, 
 so well known for his works against Lauder and Bower, which may explain its Scottish 
 fame. At another period it was kept by Mrs. Anderson, described in Mackenzie's Life 
 of Home as " a woman of uncommon talents, and the most agreeable conversation." 
 
 BUTTON'S COFFEE-HOTJSE, " over against Tom's, in Covent-garden," was established 
 in 1712, and thither Addison transferred much company from Tom's. In July, 1713, a 
 Lion's Head, " a proper emblem of knowledge and action, being all head and paws," 
 was set up at Button's, in imitation of the celebrated Lion at Venice, to receive letters 
 and papers for the Guardian. Here the wits of that time used to assemble ; and 
 among them, Addison, Pope, Steele, Swift, Arbuthnot, Count Viviani, Savage, Budgell, 
 Philips, Davenant, and Colonel Brett ; and here it was that Philips hung up a birchen 
 rod, with which he threatened to chastise Pope for " a biting epigram." Button, the 
 master of the Coffee-house, had been a servant in the Countess of Warwick's family ; 
 and it is said that when Addison suffered any vexation from the Countess, he withdrew 
 the company from Button's house. Just after Queen Anne's accession, Swift made 
 acquaintance with the leaders of the wits at Button's. Ambrose Philips refers to him 
 as the strange clergyman whom the frequenters of the Coffee-house had observed for 
 some days. He knew no one, no one knew him. He would lay his hat down on a 
 table, and walk up and down at a brisk pace for half an hour without speaking to any 
 one. Then he would snatch up his hat, pay his money at the bar, and walk off, with-
 
 COFFEE-HOUSES. 263 
 
 out having opened his lips. He was called in the room " the mad parson." Here 
 Swift first saw Addison. 
 
 Sir Walter Scott gives, upon the authority of Dr. Wall, of Worcester, who had it from Dr. Arbuth- 
 not himself, the following anecdote, less coarse than the version usually told. Swift was seated at the 
 fire at Button's : there was sand on the floor of the coffee-room, and Arbuthnot offered him a letter 
 which he had been just addressing, saying at the same time " There, sand that." " I have no sand," 
 answered Swift ; " but I can help you to a little gravel." This he said so significantly, that Arbuthnot 
 hastily snatched back the letter, to save it from the fate of the capital of Lilliput. 
 
 At Button's the leading company, particularly Addison and Steele, met in large 
 flowing flaxen wigs. Sir Godfrey Kneller, too, was a well-dressed frequenter. The 
 master died in 1731, when in the Daily Advertiser, October 5, appeared the follow- 
 ing : " On Sunday morning, died, after three days' illness, Mr. Button, who formerly 
 kept Button's Coffee-house, in Russell-street, Covent-garden ; a very noted house for 
 wits, being the place where the Lyon produced the famous Tatlers and Spectators, 
 written by the late Mr. Secretary Addison and Sir Richard Steele, Knt., which works 
 will transmit their names with honour to posterity." Mr. Cunningham found in the 
 vestry-books of St. Paul's, Covent-garden : " 1719, April 16. Received of Mr. Daniel 
 Button, for two places in the pew No. 18, on the south side of the north Isle, 21. 2s." 
 J. T. Smith states that Button's name appears in the books of St. Paul's as receiving 
 an allowance from the parish. (See Streets of London, Part 1. p. 159.) 
 
 Button's continued in vogue until Addison's death and Steele's retirement into Wales, 
 after which the house was deserted ; the coffee-drinkers went to the Bedford Coffee- 
 house, the dinner-parties to the Shakspeare. In 1720, Hogarth mentions " four draw- 
 ings in Indian ink " of the characters at Button's Coffee-house. In these were sketches 
 of Arbuthnot, Addison, Pope, (as it is conjectured,) aud a certain Count Viviani, iden- 
 tified years afterwards by Horace Walpole, when the drawings came under his notice. 
 They subsequently came into Ireland's possession. (Sala's vivid William Hogarth, 
 Cornhill Magazine, vol. i. 428.) Jemmy Maclaine, or M'Clean, the fashionable high- 
 wayman, was a frequent visitor at Button's, which subsequently became a private house ; 
 and here Mrs. Inchbald lodged, probably, after the death of her sister, for whose sup- 
 port she practised such noble and generous self-denial. Phillips, the publisher, offered 
 her a thousand pounds for her Memoirs, which she declined. 
 
 The memorable Lion's Head is tolerably well carved : through the mouth the letters were dropped 
 into a till at Button's; and beneath were inscribed these two lines from Martial : 
 " Cervantur magnis isti Cervicibus nngues : 
 Non nisi delicti pascitur ille fera." 
 
 The head was designed by Hogarth, and is etched in Ireland's Illustrations. Lord Chesterfield is 
 said to have once offered for the Head fifty guineas. From Button's it was removed to the Shakspeare 
 Head Tavern, under the Piazza, kept by a person named Tomkyns ; and in 1751, was, for a short timo, 
 placed in the Bedford Coffee-house immediately adjoining the Shakspeare, and there employed as a 
 letter-box by Dr. John Hill, for his Inspector. In 1769, Tomkyns was succeeded by his waiter, Camp- 
 bell, as proprietor of the tavern and Lion's head, and by him the latter was retained until Nov. 8, 1804, 
 when it was purchased by Mr. Charles Richardson, of Richardson's Hotel, for 17/. 10*., who also pos- 
 sessed the original sign of the Shakspeare Head. After Mr. Richardson's death in 1827, the Lion's 
 Head devolved to his son, of whom it was bought by the Duke of Bedford, and deposited at Woburn 
 Abbey, where it still remains. Communicated by Mr. John Or een. See also Guardian, Nog. 85, 93,11-1,112. 
 
 CHAPTEE COFFEE-HOUSE, 50, Paternoster-row, is mentioned in No. 1 of the Connois- 
 seur, January 31, 1754, as the resort of " those encouragers of literature, and not the 
 worst judges of merit, the booksellers." Chatterton dates several letters from the 
 Chapter. Goldsmith frequented the coffee-room, and always occupied one place, which, 
 for many years after, was the seat of literary honour there. The Chapter had its leather 
 token. 
 
 Alexander Stephens left some reminiscences of the many literati and politicians who frequented 
 the Chapter from 1797 to 1805. The box in the north-east corner was called the Witenagemot, and was 
 occupied by the " Wet Paper Club." Here assembled Dr. Buchan, author of Domestic Medicine; Dr. 
 Berdmore, Master of the Charter-house ; Walker, the rhetorician ; and Dr. Towers, the political writer ; 
 Dr. George Fordyce, and Dr. Gower of " the Middlesex," who, with Buchan, prescribed the Chapter 
 punch ; Robinson, King of the Booksellers, and his brother John ; Joseph Johnson, the friend of 
 Priestley and Paine, and Cowper and Fuseli ; Alexander Chalmers, the workman of the Robinsons ; the 
 two Parrys, of the Courier, then the organ of Jacobinism; Lowndes, the electrician; Dr. Busby, the 
 writer on music; Jacob, an Alderman and M.P. ; Waithman, then Common Councilman; Mr. Blake, 
 the banker, of Lombard-street ; Mr. Patterson, a North Briton, who taught Pitt mathematics; Alexan- 
 der Stephens ; and Phillips (afterwards Sir Richard), who here recruited for contributors to his Monthly 
 Magazine. The Witenagemot lost its literary celebrities ; but the Chapter maintained its reputation, 
 for good punch and coffee, scarce pamphlets, and liberal supply of town and country newspapers.
 
 264 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Mrs. Gaskell has left the following account of the Chapter in 1818 : 
 
 " It latterly became the tavern frequented by university men, and country clergymen, who were up in 
 London for a few days, and, having no private friends or access into society, were glad to learn 
 what was going on in the world of letters, from the conversation which they were sure to hear in the 
 coffee-room. It was a place solely frequented by men ; I believe there was but one female servant in 
 the house. Few people slept there : some of the stated meetings of the trade were held in it, as they 
 had been for more than a century ; and occasionally country booksellers, with now and then a clergy- 
 man, resorted to it. In the long 1 , low, dingy room upstairs, the meetings of the trade were held." The 
 Chapter is now a modernized public-house. 
 
 CHILD'S COFFEE-HOUSE, St. Paul's Churchyard, was one of the Spectator's houses, 
 who smoked a pipe here, and whilst he seemed attentive to nothing but the Postman, 
 overheard the conversation of every table in the room. It was much frequented by the 
 clergy, and Fellows of the Royal Society. Dr. Mead often came here. Child's was, 
 in one respect, superseded by the Chapter, in Paternoster-row. 
 
 CLIFFOED-STBEET COFFEE-HOUSE, corner of Bond-street, had its debating club. 
 (See ante p. 245.) During a debate, the refreshment was porter, to a pot of 
 which Canning compared the eloquence of Mirabeau, as empty and vapid as his 
 patriotism " foam and froth at the top, heavy and muddy within." 
 
 COCOA-TEEE, 64, St. Jarnes's-street. (See COCOA-TEEE CLUB, p. 246.) 
 
 DICK'S COFFEE-HOUSE (now a Tavern), 8, Fleet-street, near Temple Bar, was ori- 
 ginally called Kichard's, from its landlord, Richard Torver, or Turver, in 1680. Here 
 Steele takes the "Twaddlers," in the Tatler, Nos. 86 and 132. The coffee-room was 
 frequented by the poet Covvper, when he lived in the Temple. The room retains its 
 olden panelling, and the staircase its original balusters. 
 
 " In 1737, Dick's was kept by a Mrs. Yarrow and her daughter, who were the reigning toasts with 
 the frequenters, and were supposed to be ridiculed in the comedy of ' The Coffee-house,' by the Rev. 
 James Miller. This was stoutly denied by the author : but the engraver having inadvertently fixed 
 upon Dick's Coffee-house as the frontispiece scene, the Templars, with whom the ladies were great 
 favourites, became by his accident so confirmed in their suspicions, that they united to damn the piece, 
 and even extended their resentment to everything suspected to be this author's for a considerable time 
 after." Biographia Dramatica. 
 
 The Coffee-house was, wholly or in part, the original printing-office of Richard 
 Tottel, law-printer to Edward VI., Queens Mary and Elizabeth ; the premises were 
 attached to No. 7, Fleet-street, which bore the sign of " The Hand and Starre," where 
 Tottel lived, and published the law and other works he printed. No. 7 was subse- 
 quently occupied by Jaggard and Joel Stephens, eminent law-writers, temp. Geo. I. 
 III.; and at the present day the house is most appropriately occupied by Messrs. 
 Butterworth, who follow the occupation Tottel did in the days of Edward VI., being 
 law-publishers to Queen Victoria; and they possess the original leases, from the earliest 
 grant, in the reign of Henry VIII., to the period of their own purchase. 
 
 GEOBGE'S COFFEE-HOUSE (now a hotel), 213, Strand, near Essex-street, is men- 
 tioned by Foote, in his Life of A. Murphy, as an evening meeting-place of the town 
 wits of 1751. Shenstone was a frequenter of George's, where, lor a shilling sub- 
 scription, he read " all pamphlets under a three shillings' dimension." It was closed 
 in 1843. 
 
 GBECIAN COFFEE-HOUSE, Devereux-court, Strand, was originally kept by one Con- 
 stantine, a Grecian. From this house Steele proposed to date his learned articles in the 
 Taller ; it is mentioned in No. 1 of the Spectator ; and it was much frequented by 
 Goldsmith and the Irish and Lancashire Templars. The Spectator's face was very 
 well known at the Grecian, " adjacent to the law." Occasionally it was the scene of 
 learned discussion. Thus, Dr. King relates that one evening, two gentlemen, who were 
 constant companions, were disputing here, concerning the accent of a Greek word. 
 This dispute was carried to such a length, that the two friends thought proper to 
 determine it by their swords : for this purpose they stepped into Devereux-court, where 
 one of them (Dr. King thinks his name was Fitzgerald) was run through the body, and 
 died on the spot. The Grecian was Foote's morning lounge. Here Goldsmith occa- 
 sionally wound up his "Shoemaker's Holiday" with supper. The house was also
 
 COFFEE-HOUSES. 265 
 
 frequented by Fellows of tho Royal Society. The premises have, since 1843, been the 
 " Grecian Chambers ;" and over the door is the bust of Devereux, Earl of Essex. 
 
 GAEEAWAY'S COFFEE-HOUSE, 3, Change-alley, Cornhill, had a threefold celebrity : 
 tea was first sold in England here ; it was a place of great resort in the time of the 
 South Sea Bubble ; and was throughout a house of great mercantile transactions. The 
 original proprietor was Thomas Garway, tobacconist and coffee-man, the first who 
 retailed tea, recommending it for the cure of all disorders; the following is the sub- 
 stance of his shop-bill : 
 
 " Tea in England hath been sold in the leaf for six pounds, and sometimes for ten pounds the pound 
 weight, and in respect of its former scarceness and dearness, it hath been only used as a regalia in high 
 treatments and entertainments, and presents made thereof to princes and grandees till the year 1651. 
 The said Thomas Garway did purchase a quantity thereof, and first publicly sold the said tea in leaf and 
 drink, made according to the directions of the most knowing merchants and travellers into those 
 Eastern countries ; and upon knowledge and experience of the said Garway's continued care and industry 
 in obtaining the best tea, and making drink thereof, very many noblemen, physicians, merchants, and 
 gentlemen of quality, have ever since sent to him for the said leaf, and daily resort to his house in Ex- 
 change-alley, aforesaid, to drink the drink thereof; and to the end that all persons of eminence and 
 quality, gentlemen, and others, who have occasion for tea in leaf, may be supplied, these are to give 
 notice that the said Thomas Garway hath tea to sell from sixteen to fifty shillings per pound." (See the 
 document entire in Ellis's Letters, series iv. 58.) 
 
 Ogilby, the compiler of the Britannia, had his standing lottery of books at Garway's 
 from April 7, 1673, till wholly drawn oft; and, in the Journey through England, 1722, 
 Garraway's, Robins's, and Joe's, are described as the three celebrated Coffee-houses : 
 the first, the people of quality, who have business in the City, and the most consider- 
 able and wealthy citizens, frequent; the second, the foreign banquiers, and often 
 even foreign ministers ; and the third, the buyers and sellers of stock. Wines were 
 sold at Garraway's in 1673, "by the candle" that is, by auction, while an inch of 
 candle burns. Swift, in his " Ballad on the South Sea Scheme," 1721, did not forget 
 this Coffee-house : 
 
 " Meanwhile, secure on Garway's cliffs, 
 
 A savage race by shipwrecks fed, 
 Lie waiting for the founder'd skiffs, 
 And strip the bodies of the dead." 
 
 The reader may recollect with what realistic power of incident and character 
 Mr. E. II. Ward painted, some twenty years ago, the strange scene in the Alley; 
 and his characteristic picture is, fortunately, placed in our National Gallery, as a 
 lesson for all time. In the background is shown the Garraway's of 1720. 
 
 Dr. Radcliffe, who was a rash speculator, was usually planted at a table at Garra- 
 way's, to watch the turn of the market. One of his ventures was five thousand 
 guineas upon one project. When he was told at Garraway's that it was all lost, " Why," 
 said he, " 'tis but going up five thousand pair of stairs more." " This answtr," says 
 Tom Brown, " deserved a statue." 
 
 Garraway's was long famous as a sandwich and drinking-room, for sherry, pale ale, 
 and punch. Tea and coffee were also served. It is said that the sandwich-maker was 
 occupied two hours in cutting and arranging the sandwiches before the day's consump- 
 tion commenced. The large sale-room was an old-fashioned first-floor apartment, with 
 a small rostrum for the seller, and a few commonly-grained settles for the buyers ; 
 there were also other sale-rooms. Here sales of drugs, mahogany, and timber were 
 periodically held. Twenty or thirty property and other sales sometimes took place in 
 a day. The walls and windows of the lower room were covered with auction placards. 
 
 The first Garway's Coffee-house was destroyed in the Great Fire ; the house was 
 rebuilt, and again burnt in the fire in Cornhill, in 1748 ; and again rebuilt, and finally 
 closed August 18, 1866. The basement, used as wine-vaults, was ancient, of fourteenth 
 and sixteenth century architecture, of ecclesiastical character, and had a piscina. It 
 is remarkable that Garraway's, where tea was first sold, and the Angel, at Oxford, 
 where coffee was first sold, were both taken down in 1866. Illustrated London News. 
 
 GEAT'S-INN COFFEE-IIOUSE, eastern corner of Gray's-inn Gate, Holborn : here 
 were formerly held the Commissions De Lunaiico inquirendo. It was closed in 1865. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S COFFEE-HOUSE, the famous Whig Coffee-house from the time of Queen
 
 266 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Anne till late in the reign of George III. It was the last house but one on the south- 
 west corner of St. James's-street, and is thus mentioned in No. 1 of the Tatler : 
 "Foreign and domestic news you will Lave from St. James's Coffee-house." It 
 occurs also in the Spectator. The St. James's was much frequented by Swift ; letters 
 for him were left there. Here Swift christened the coffee-man Elliot's child, "when," 
 says he, " the rogue had a most noble supper, and Steele and I sat amongst some scurvy 
 company over a bowl of punch." Lady Mary Wortley Montague's Town Eclogues 
 were first read over at the St. James's Coffee-house. From its proximity to the Palace, 
 it was much visited by the Guards. 
 
 But the St. James's is more memorable as the house where originated Goldsmith's 
 celebrated poein, Retaliation. The poet belonged to a temporary association of men 
 of talent, some of them members of the Club, who dined together occasionally here. 
 At these dinners he was generally the last to arrive. On one occasion, when he was 
 later than usual, a whim seized the company to write epitaphs on him, as " the late Dr. 
 Goldsmith," and several were thrown off in a playful vein. The only one extant was 
 written by Garrick, and has been preserved, very probably, by its pungency : 
 
 " Here lies poet Goldsmith, for shortness called Noll; 
 He wrote like an angel, but talked like poor Poll." 
 
 Goldsmith did not relish the sarcasm, especially coming from such a quarter ; and, 
 by way of retaliation, he produced the famous poem, of which Cumberland has left a 
 very interesting account, but which Mr. Forster, in his Life of Goldsmith, states to 
 be " pure romance." The poem itself, however, with what was prefixed to it when 
 published, sufficiently explains its own origin. 
 
 The St. James's was closed about 1806, and a large pile of buildings looking down 
 Pall Mall erected on its site. The globular oil-lamp was first exhibited by its inventor, 
 Michael Cole, at the door of the St. James's Coffee-house, in 1709 : in the patent he 
 obtained, it is mentioned as " a new kind of light." 
 
 JAMAICA COFFEE-HOUSE, 1, St. Michael's-alley, Cornhill, is noted for the accuracy 
 and fulness of its West India intelligence. The subscribers are merchants trading 
 with Madeira and the West Indies. It is the best place for information as to the 
 mail-packets on the West India station, or the merchant vessels making these 
 voyages. 
 
 JERUSALEM COFFEE-HOUSE, 1, Cowper's-court, Cornhill, is one of the oldest of the 
 City news-rooms, and is frequented by merchants and captains connected with the 
 commerce of China, India, and Australia. 
 
 " The subscription-room is well furnished with files of the principal Canton, Hong Kong, Macao, 
 Pcnang, Singapore, Calcutta, Bombay, Madras, Sydney, Hobart Town, Launceston, Adelaide, and Port 
 Philip papers, and Prices Current; besides shipping-lists and papers from the various intermediate 
 stations or ports touched at, as St. Helena, the Cape of Good Hope, &c. The books of East India 
 shipping include arrivals, departures, casualties, &c. The full business is between two and three o'clock, 
 P.M. In 1845 ? John Tawell, the Slough murderer, was captured at the Jerusalem, which he was in the 
 habit of visiting, to ascertain information of the state of his property in Sydney." The City, 2nd 
 edit., 1848. 
 
 JONATHAN'S, Change-alley Coffee-house, is described in the Tatler, No. 38, as 
 " the general mart of stock-jobbers ;" and the Spectator, No. 1, tells us that he 
 "sometimes passes for a Jew in the assembly of stock-jobbers at Jonathan's." This 
 was the rendezvous where gambling of all sorts was carried on ; notwithstanding a 
 formal prohibition against the assemblage of the jobbers, issued by the City of London, 
 which prohibition continued unrepealed until 1825. Mrs. Centlivre, in her comedy of 
 A Sold Stroke for a Wife, has a scene from Jonathan's at the above period : while 
 the stock-jobbers are talking, the coffee boys are crying, " Fresh coffee, gentlemen, 
 fresh coffee ! Bohea tea, gentlemen !" 
 
 LANGBOUBN COFFEE-HOUSE, Ball-alley, Lombard-street, rebuilt in 1850, has a 
 broiling-stove in the coffee-room, whence chops and steaks are served hot from the 
 gridiron ; and here is a wine and cigar room, embellished in handsome old French 
 taste. 
 
 LLOYD'S, Royal Exchange, celebrated for its priority of shipping intelligence, and
 
 COFFEE-HOUSES. 267 
 
 its marine insurance, originated with one Lloyd, who kept a coffee-house in Lombard- 
 street. One of the apartments in the Exchange is fitted up as Lloyd's Coffee-room. 
 (See EXCHANGES.) 
 
 LONDON COFFEE-HOUSE, Ludgate-hill (now a hotel and tavern), was opened May, 
 1731, as " a punch house, Dorchester Beer, and Welsh Ale Warehouse, where the finest 
 and best old Arrack, Rum, and French Brandy is made into Punch." In front of the 
 London Coffee-house, immediately west of St. Martin's Church, stood Ludgate ; and 
 on the site of the church Wren found the monument of a Roman soldier of the Second 
 Legion, which is preserved in the Arundelian Collection. The London Coffee-house is 
 noted for its publishers' sales of stock and copyrights. It was within the rules of the 
 Fleet Prison : and in the Coffee-house are " locked up " for the night such juries from 
 the Old Bailey Sessions as cannot agree upon verdicts. The house was long kept by 
 the grandfather and father of Mr. John Leech, the celebrated artist. At the bar of 
 the London Coffee-house was sold Rowley's British Cephalic Snuff. A singular inci- 
 dent occurred here many years since ; Mr. Brayley, the topographer, was present at a 
 party, when Mr. Broadhurst, the famous tenor, by singing a high note, caused a 
 wine-glass on the table to break, the bowl being separated from the stem. 
 
 MAN'S COFFEE-HOUSE, in Scotland-yard, near the water-side, took its name from 
 the proprietor, Alexander Man, and was sometimes known as Old Man's, or the Royal 
 Coffee-house, to distinguish it from Young Man's and Little Man's minor establishments 
 in the neighbourhood. 
 
 MILES'S COFFEE-HOTTSE, New Palace-yard, Westminster, was the place of meeting 
 of the noted Rota Club. (See CLUBS, p. 255.) 
 
 MTJNDAT'S COFFEE-HOUSE, Maiden-lane, was a noted sporting resort in the days 
 of Captain England, Dennis O'Kelly, Hull, the Clarkes, and others of turf notoriety. 
 It was one of Sheridan's retreats, secure from his creditors. 
 
 NANDO'S COFFEE-HOUSE was the house at the east corner of Inner Temple-lane, 
 17, Fleet-street, and next door to the shop of Bernard Lintot, the bookseller; 
 though it has been by some confused with Groom's house, next door. Nando's was 
 the favourite haunt of Lord Thurlow, before he dashed into law practice. At this 
 Coffee-house a large attendance of professional loungers was attracted by the fame 
 of the punch and the charms of the landlady, which, with the small wits, were duly 
 admired by and at the bar. The house, formerly Nando's, was also the depository of 
 Mr. Salmon's Waxwork. It has been for many years a hair-dresser's. It is inscribed, 
 " Formerly the Palace of Henry VIII. and Cardinal Wolsey." But the structure is of 
 the time of James I., when it was the Council Office of the Duchy of Cornwall j an 
 entry in 1619 is from " Prince's Council Chamber, Fleet-street." 
 
 NEW ENGLAND AND NORTH AND SOUTH AMERICAN COFFEE-HOUSE, 59 and 60, 
 Threadneedle-street, had a subscription-room, with newspapers from every quarter of 
 the globe. Here the first information could be obtained of the arrival and departure of 
 steamers, packets, and traders engaged in the commerce of America, whether at Mon- 
 treal and Quebec, or Boston, Halifax, and New York. The heads of the chief American 
 and continental firms were on the subscription-list, and the representatives of Barings, 
 Rothschilds, and other wealthy establishments, attended the room as regularly as 
 'Change ; as did also American captains, and the " City Correspondents" of the morning 
 and evening press. From 300 to 400 files of newspapers were kept here, ranging from 
 America to the East or West Indies, thence to Australia, the Havana, France, Ger- 
 many, Holland, Russia, Spain, and Portugal. (Abridged from The City, 2nd edit.) 
 
 Adjoining was the Cock Tavern, with a large soup-room, named after the Cock, which faced the 
 north gate of the old Royal Exchange, and was long celebrated for the excellence of its soups, served 
 in silver. This house was taken down in 1841 ; when, in a claim for compensation made by the pro- 
 prietor, the trade in three years was proved to have been 344,720 basins of various soups viz., 166,240 
 mock turtle, 3920 giblet, 59,360 ox-tail, 31,072 bouilli, 84,128 gravy and other soups : sometimes 500 
 basins of soup were sold in a day. 
 
 PEELE'S, 177 and 178, Fleet- street, east corner of Fetter-lane, was one of the coffee- 
 houses of the Johnsonian period ; and here was long preserved a portrait of Dr.
 
 268 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Johnson, on the keystone of a chimney-piece, stated to have been painted by Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds. Peele's was noted for its files of newspapers from these dates : Gazette, 1759; 
 Times, 1780; Morning Chronicle, 1773; Morning Post, 1773; Morning Herald, 
 1784 ; Morning Advertiser, 1794. Peele's is now a tavern and hotel. 
 
 PERCY COFFEE-HOUSE, the, Rathbone-place,- Oxford-street, no longer exists ; but it 
 will be kept in recollection for its having given name to one of the most popular pub- 
 lications, of its class, in our time, namely, the Percy Anecdotes, " by Sholto and Reuben 
 Percy, Brothers of the Benedictine Monastery of Mont Benger," in 44 parts, com- 
 mencing in 1820. So said the title-pages ; but the names and the locality were sup- 
 pose. Reuben Percy was Thomas Byerley, who died in 1824 ; Sholto Percy was Joseph 
 Clinton Robertson, who died in 1852. The name of the collection of Anecdotes was 
 not taken, as at the time supposed, from the popularity of the Percy Reliques, but 
 from the Percy Coffee-house, where Byerley and Robertson were accustomed to meet to 
 talk over the joint work. 
 
 PIAZZA COFFEE-HOUSE, the, was opened in that portion of the Piazza houses in 
 Covent-garden which is now the Tavistock Hotel. Here Macklin fitted up a large 
 Coffee-room, or theatre for oratory ; a three-shilling ordinary, and a shilling lecture : he 
 presided at the dinner-table, and carved for the company, after which he played a sort 
 of " Oracle of Eloquence." Fielding has happily sketched him in his Voyage to 
 Lisbon : " Unfortunately for the fishmongers of London, the Dory only resides in the 
 Devonshire seas ; for could any of this company only convey one to the Temple of 
 Luxury under the Piazza, where Macklin, the high priest, daily serves up his rich 
 offerings, great would be the reward of that fishmonger." 
 
 Foote, in his fun upon Macklin's Lectures, took up his notion of applying 
 Greek tragedy to modern subjects, and the squib was so successful, that Foote 
 cleared by it 50QI. in five nights, while the great Piazza Coffee-room in Covent- 
 garden was shut up, and Macklin in the Gazette as a bankrupt. Eastward was 
 the Piazza Coffee-house, much frequented by Sheridan and John Kemble ; and 
 here is located the well-known anecdote told of Sheridan's coolness during the 
 burning of Drury-lane Theatre, in 1809. It is said that as he sat at the Piazza, 
 during the fire, taking some refreshment, a friend of his having remarked on the philo- 
 sophical calmness with which he bore his misfortune, Sheridan replied : " A man may 
 surely be allowed to take a glass of wine by his own fireside." The Piazza fa?ade and its 
 interior were of Gothic design : the house has been taken down, and in its place is built 
 the Floral Hall, after the Crystal Palace model, thus breaking the continuity of Inigo 
 Jones's arcade. 
 
 RAINBOW COFFEE-HOUSE (now a tavern), 15, Fleet-street, by the Inner Temple 
 Gate, was the second Coffee-hcuse opened in London, and had its token-money : 
 
 " JAMES FAEB, 1666. A Rainbow. R, IN FLEET-STREET. In the centre, HIS HALFPENNY. It is well 
 known that James Farr kept the Rainbow, in Fleet-street, at the time of the Great Fire, the very year 
 of which is marked on this token. Farr was a barber; and in the year 1657 was presented by the In- 
 quest of St. Dunstan's-in-the-West for making and selling ' a sort of liquor called " coffee," whereby in 
 making the same he annoyeth his neighbours by evill smells ; and for keeping of fire for the most part 
 night and day, whereby his chimney and chamber hath been set on fire, to the great danger and affright 
 ment of his neighbours.' " 
 
 However, Farr was not ousted; he probably promised reform, or amended the 
 alleged annoyance : he remained at the Rainbow, and rose to be a person of eminence 
 and repute in the parish. He issued the above token, date 1666 an arched rainbow based 
 on clouds, doubtless, from the Great Fire to indicate that with him all was yet safe, 
 and the Rainbow still radiant. There is one of his tokens in the Beaufoy collection, 
 at Guildhall, and so far as is known to Mr. Burn, the Raiubow does not occur on any 
 other tradesman's token. The house was let off into tenements : books were printed 
 here at this very time " for Samuel Speed, at the sign of the Rainbow, near the Inner 
 Temple Gate, in Fleet-street." The Phoenix Fire Office was established here about 
 1682. Hatton, in 1708, evidently attributed Farr's nuisance to the coffee itself, say- 
 ing : " Who would have thought London would ever have had three thousand such 
 nuisances, and that coffee would have been (as now) so much drank by the best of 
 quality, and physicians ?" The nuisance was in Farr's chimney and carelessness, not
 
 COFFEE-HOUSES. 269 
 
 in the coffee. The Spectator, No. 16, notices some gay frequenters of the Rainbow : 
 " I have received a letter desiring me to he very satirical upon the little muff that is 
 now in fashion ; another informs me of a pair of silver garters, buckled below the 
 knee, that have lately been seen at the Rainbow Coffee-house, in Fleet-street." Mr. 
 Moncrieff, the dramatist, used to tell that about 1780 this house was kept by his grand- 
 father, Alexander Moncrieff, when it retained its original title of " The Rainbow Coffee- 
 house." It has vaulted cellars, excellent for keeping stout j the old coffee-room 
 originally had a lofty bay-window at the south end, looking into the Temple ; in the 
 bay was the large table for the elders. The room was separated by a glazed partition 
 from the kitchen, where was a clock with a large wooden dial. The house has long 
 been a tavern : all the old rooms have been swept away, and a large and lofty dining- 
 room erected in their place. There are views of the old entrance to the Rainbow in 
 Hughson and Malcolm's London, 1807 and 1808. 
 
 SALTERO'S (DON) COFFEE-HOUSE, 18, Cheyne-walk, Chelsea, was opened by a barber 
 named Salter, in 1695. Sir Hans Sloane, whose valet Salter had been, contributed 
 some of the refuse gimcracks of his own collection ; and Vice- Admiral Munden, who 
 had been long on the coast of Spain, named the keeper of the house Don Saltero, and 
 his coffee-house and museum, Don Saltero's. Steele, in the thirty-fourth number of 
 the Taller, describes Salter as "carrying on the avocations of barber and dentist. 
 You see the barber in Don Quixote is one of the principal characters in the history, 
 which gave me satisfaction on the doubt why Don Saltero writ his name with 
 a Spanish termination. Ten thousand were gimcracks round the room, and on the 
 ceiling ; and a sage of thin and meagre countenance, of that sort which the ancients 
 call ' gingivister,' in our language, ' tooth-drawers.' " Among the curiosities presented 
 by Admiral Munden was a coffin, containing the body or relics of a Spanish saint, who 
 had wrought miracles ; also, " a straw hat, which," says Steele, " I know to be made by 
 Madge Peskad, within three miles of Bedford ; and he tells you ' It is Pontius Pilate's 
 wife's chambermaid's sister's hat.' " The Don was famous for his punch and his skill 
 on the fiddle : he also drew teeth, and wrote verses ; he described his museum in several 
 stanzas, one of which is 
 
 " Monsters of all sorts here are seen : 
 
 Strange things in nature as they grew so ; 
 Some relicks of the Sheba queen, 
 
 And fragments of the fam'd Bob Crusoe." 
 
 Don Saltero's proved very attractive as an exhibition, and drew crowds to the Coffee- 
 house. A Catalogue was published, of which were printed more than forty editions. 
 Smollett, the novelist, was among the donors. The edition of 1760 comprehended the 
 following rarities : 
 
 Tigers' tusks ; the Pope's candle; the skeleton of a Guinea-pig ; a fly-cap monkey; a piece of the 
 true Cross ; the Four Evangelists' heads cut on a cherry-stone ; the King of Morocco's tobacco-pipe ; 
 Mary Queen of Scots' pincushion ; Queen Elizabeth's prayer-book ; a pair of nun's stockings ; Job's 
 ears, which grew on a tree ; a frog in a tobacco-stopper ; and five hundred more odd relics ! The Don 
 had a rival, as appears by " A Catalogue of the Karities to be seen at Adams's, at the Eoyal Swan, in 
 Kingsland-road, leading from Shoreditch Church, 1756." Mr. Adams exhibited, for the entertainment 
 of the curious, " Miss Jenny Cameron's shoes ; Adam's eldest daughter's hat ; the heart of the famous 
 Bess Adams, that was hanged at Tyburn with Lawyer Carr, January 18, 1736-7 ; Sir Walter Raleigh's 
 tobacco-pipe; Vicar of Bray's clogs; engine to shell green peas with; teeth that grew in a fish's belly; 
 Black Jack's ribs ; the very comb that Abraham combed his son Isaac and Jacob's head with ; Wat 
 Tyler's spurs; rope that cured Captain Lowry of the head-ach, ear-ach, tooth-ach, and belly-ach; 
 Adam's key of the fore and back door of the Garden of Edeii," &c. &c. These are only a few out of five 
 hundred others equally marvellous. 
 
 In Dr. Franklin's Life we read : " Some gentlemen from the country went by water 
 to see the College, and Don Saltero's Curiosities, at Chelsea." These were shown in 
 the coffee-room till August, 1799, when the collection was mostly sold or dispersed ; a 
 few gimcracks were left until about 1825, when we were informed on the premises, 
 they were thrown away ! The house was taken down in 1866. (See CHEL- 
 SEA, p. 90.) 
 
 SAM'S COFFEE-HOUSE, in Exchange- alley; and in Ludgate-street. The latter is 
 mentioned in State Poems, 1697 and 1703 ; and in 1722 there were two large mul- 
 berry-trees growing in a little yard in the rear of the house in Ludgate-street.
 
 270 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 SEELE'S COFFEE-HOUSE, Carey-street, is thus mentioned in No. 49 of the Spectator i 
 " I do not know that I meet in any of my walks, objects which move both my spleen 
 and laughter so effectually as those young fellows at the Grecian, Squire's, Serle's, and 
 all other Coffee-houses adjacent to the Law, who rise for no other purpose but to publish 
 their laziness." 
 
 SLAUGHTEE'S COFFEE-HOUSE, famous as the resort of painters and sculptors, in the 
 last century, was situated at the upper end of the west side of St. Martin's-lane, three 
 doors from Newport-street. Its first landlord was Thomas Slaughter, 1692. A second 
 Slaughter's (New Slaughter's) was established in the same street about 1760, when the 
 original establishment adopted the name of " Old Slaughter's," by which designation it 
 was known till within a few years of the final demolition of the house to make way for 
 the new avenue between Long-acre and Leicester-square, formed 1843-44. For many 
 years previous to the streets of London being completely paved, " Slaughter's" was 
 called " The Coffee-house on the Pavement." Besides being the resort of artists, Old 
 Slaughter's was the house of call for Frenchmen. Hogarth was a constant visitor here : 
 he lived at the Golden Head, on the eastern side of Leicester-fields, in the northern half 
 of the Sabloniere Hotel. Koubiliac was often to be found at Slaughter's ; and young 
 Gainsborough and Cipriani ; Jervis and Hayman met here, and seldom parted till day- 
 light. Wilkie, in early life, was the last dropper-in here for a dinner; and Haydon 
 was often his companion. J. T. Smith refers to Slaughter's as " formerly the rendez- 
 vous of Pope, Dryden, and other wits." Thither came Ware, the architect of Chesterfield 
 House ; also Gwynn, who competed with Mylne for Blackfriars Bridge ; and Gravelot, 
 who kept a Drawing-school in the Strand. Hudson, who painted the Dilettanti por- 
 traits; M'Ardell, the mezzotinto- scraper; and Luke Sullivan, the engraver of Hogarth's 
 March to Finchley, also frequented Old Slaughter's ; likewise Theodore Gardell, the 
 portrait-painter, who was executed for the murder of his landlady; and Old Moser, 
 keeper of the Drawing-academy in Peter's-court. Richard Wilson, the landscape 
 painter, was not a regular customer here. Parry, the Welsh harper, though totally 
 blind, was one of the first draught-players in England, and occasionally played with the 
 frequenters of Old Slaughter's ; and here, in consequence of a bet, Roubiliac introduced 
 Nathaniel Smith (father of John Thomas), to play at draughts with Parry, when 
 Smith won. Kawle, the inseparable companion of Capt. Grose, the antiquary, came 
 often to Slaughter's ; as did also Collins, the young poet. 
 
 SMYBNA COFFEE-HOUSE, Pall Mall, is frequently alluded to by the writers of Queen 
 Anne's reign ; and was one of the most celebrated of the West-end houses. Prior and 
 Swift were among its most distinguished frequenters; its "seat of learning," and 
 " cluster of wise heads." Prior and Swift were much together at the Smyrna ; we read 
 of their sitting there two hours, " receiving acquaintance." It seemed also to be a 
 place to talk politics. Subscriptions were received there by Thomson, for publishing 
 his Four Seasons ; with a Hymn on their Succession." We find the Smyrna in a list 
 of Coffee-houses, in 1810. 
 
 SOMEESET COFFEE-HOUSE, 162, Strand, has a literary association, from the Letters 
 of Junius having been sometimes left at the bar. 
 
 SQUIEE'S COFFEE-HOUSE was in Fulwood's-rents, Holborn, running up to Gray's 
 Inn, and described by Strype as " a place of good resort, and taken up by coffee-houses, 
 ale-houses, and houses of entertainment ;" among which were the Castle Tavern and 
 the Golden Griffin Tavern. Here was John's, one of the earliest Coffee-houses ; and 
 adjoining Gray's-inn-gate, a deep-coloured red brick house, once Squire's Coffee house, 
 kept by Squire, who died in 1717. The house is very roomy ; it has been handsome, 
 and has a wide staircase. 
 
 Sqnire's was one of the receiving-houses of the Spectator: in No. 269, January 8, 17J1-12, he accepts 
 Sir Roger de Coverley's invitation to " smoke a pipe with him over a dish of coffee at Squire's. As I 
 love the old man, I take delight in complying with everything that is agreeable to him, and accordingly 
 waited on him to the Coffee-house, where his venerable figure drew upon us the eyes of the whole room. 
 He had no sooner seated himself at the upper end of the high table, but he called for a clean pipe, a 
 paper of tobacco, a dish of coffee, a wax candle, and the Supplement (a periodical paper of that time), 
 with such an air of cheerfulness and good humour, that all the boys in the coffee-room (who seemed to 
 take pleasure in serving him) were at once employed on his several errands, insomuch that nobody else 
 could come at a dish of tea until the Knight had got all his conveniences about him."
 
 COFFEE-HOUSES. 271 
 
 Gray's-inn Walks, to which the Rents led, across Field-court, were then a fashionable 
 promenade ; and here Sir Roger could " clear his pipes hi good air ;" for scarcely a 
 house intervened thence to Hampstead. 
 
 TOM'S COFFEE-HOUSE, Birchin-lane, Cornhill, though in the main a mercantile 
 resort, acquired some celebrity from its having been frequented by Garrick, who, to 
 keep up an interest in the City, appeared here about twice in a winter at 'Change 
 time, when it was the rendezvous of young merchants. Hawkins says : " After all 
 that has been said of Mr. Garrick, envy must own that he owed his celebrity to his 
 merit ; and yet of that himself seemed so diffident, that he practised sundry little but 
 innocent arts to insure the favour of the public :" yet he did more. When a rising actor 
 complained to Mrs. Garrick that the newspapers abused him, the widow replied, " You 
 should write your own criticisms ; David always did." Tom's was also frequented by 
 Chatterton, as a place " of the best resort ;" here was first established " the London 
 Chess-Club." (See CHESS-CLUBS, p. 95.) The premises were long held on lease from 
 Lord Cowper, at a rent of 150. per annum, but had been sublet at 1000Z. 
 
 TOM'S COFFEE-HOUSE, Devereux-court, Strand, was much resorted to by men of letters; 
 among whom were Dr. Birch, who wrote the History of the Royal Society ; also 
 Akenside, the poet ; and there is in print a letter of Pope's, addressed to Fortescue, his 
 " counsel learned in the law," at this Coffee-house. 
 
 TOM'S COFFEE-HOUSE, 17, Russell-street, Covent-garden, opposite Button's, was 
 kept by Thomas West, and was in the reign of Queen Anne, and more than half a 
 century after, a celebrated resort. (See CLUBS, p. 257.) 
 
 TOM: KING'S COFFEE-HOUSE was one of the old night-houses of Covent-garden 
 Market : it was a rude shed immediately beneath the portico of St. Paul's Church, 
 and was one " well known to all gentlemen to whom beds are unknown." Fielding, 
 in one of his prologues, says : " What rake is ignorant of King's Coffee-house ?" It 
 is in the background of Hogarth's print of "Morning," where the prim maiden 
 lady, walking to church, is soured with seeing two fuddled beaux from King's Coffee- 
 house caressing two frail women. At the door is a drunken row, ill which swords and 
 cudgels are the weapons. Harwood's Alumni Etonenses, p. 293, in the account of the 
 boys elected from Eton to King's College, contains this entry : " A.D. 1713, Thomas 
 King, born at West Ashton, in Wiltshire, went away scholar in apprehension that his 
 fellowship would be denied him; and afterwards kept that Coffee-house in Covent- 
 garden, which was called by his own name." Moll King was landlady after Tom's 
 death : she was witty, and her house was much frequented, though it was little better 
 than a shed. " Noblemen and the first "beaux" said Stacie, " after leaving Court, 
 would go to her house in full dress, with swords and bags, and in rich brocaded silk 
 coats, and walked and conversed with persons of every description. She would serve 
 chimney-sweepers, gardeners, and the market-people in common with her lords of the 
 highest rank." Captain Laroon, an amateur painter of the time of Hogarth, who often 
 witnessed the nocturnal revels at Moll King's, made a large and spirited drawing of the 
 interior of her Coffee-house, which was at Strawberry Hill : it wa bought for Walpole 
 by his printer. There is also an engraving of the same room, which is extremely rare. 
 
 TUBE'S HEAD COFFEE-HOUSE, Change-alley, established in 1662; the sign was 
 Morat the Great, who figures as a tyrant in Dryden's Aureng Zebe. There is a token 
 of this house with the Sultan's Head in the Beaufoy Collection. Another token, in 
 the same collection, is of unusual excellence, probably by John Roettier. It has on the 
 obverse, " Morat ye Great Men did mee call, Sultan's Head ;" reverse, " Where eare 
 I came I conquered all. In the field, Coffee, Tobacco, Sherbet, Tea, Chocolat, Retail 
 in Exchange Alee." " The word ' tea,' " says Mr. Burn, " occurs on no other tokens than 
 those issued from ' the Great Turk ' Coffee-house, in Exchange-alley." In a news- 
 paper of 1662, customers and acquaintances are invited the New Year's-day to the 
 Great Turk new Coffee-house, in Exchange-alley, " where coffee will be free of cost." 
 There was also a Sultan Morat's Head Coffee-house, which had a token, rev. " In Bar- 
 bican formerly in Pannyer Ally." 
 
 TUEK'S HEAD COFFEE-HOUSE, 142, in the Strand, was a favourite supping-
 
 272 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Louse with Dr. Johnson and Boswell, in whose Life of Johnson are several entries, 
 commencing with 1763 " At night, Mr. Johnson and I supped in a private room at the 
 Turk's Head Coffee-house, in the Strand. ' I encourage this house,' said he, ' for the 
 mistress of it is a good civil woman, and has not much business.' " Another entry is 
 " We concluded the day at the Turk's Head Coffee-house very socially." And, 
 August 3, 1673 " We had our last social meeting at the Turk's Head Coffee-house, 
 before my setting out for foreign parts." The name was afterwards changed to " The 
 Turk's Head, Canada and Bath Coffee-house," and lasted as a well-frequented tavern 
 until the house was rebuilt, at the cost of 8000?. as " Wright's Hotel :" it is now an 
 insurance office. The house has two stories below the level of the street. 
 
 WILL'S COFFEE-HOUSE,* the predecessor of Button's, and even more celebrated 
 than that Coffee-house, was so called from William Urwin, who kept it, and was the 
 house on the north side of Russell-street at the corner of Bow-street the corner 
 house (rebuilt) now occupied as a ham-and-beef shop, and numbered 21. Pepys, in his 
 Diary, records his first visit to Will's, 3 Feb. 1663-4, "where Dryden the poet (I knew 
 at Cambridge), and all the wits of the town, and Harris the player, and Mr. Hoole of 
 our college," with " very witty and pleasant discourse." Ned Ward sarcastically calls 
 it " the Wits' Coffee-house." Wycherley, Gay, and Dennis were frequenters. " It was 
 Dryden who made Will's Coffee-house the great resort of the wits of his time." (Pope 
 and Spence.) The room in which the poet was accustomed to sit was on the first 
 floor ; and his place was the place of honour by the fireside in the winter ; and at the 
 corner of the balcony, looking over the street, in fine weather ; he called the two places 
 his winter and his summer seat. This was called the dining-room floor in the last 
 century. The company did not sit in boxes, as subsequently, but at various tables 
 which were dispersed through the room. Smoking was permitted in the public room : 
 it was then so much in vogue that it does not seem to have been considered a nuisance. 
 Here, as in other similar places of meeting, the visitors divided themselves into parties ; 
 and we are told by Ward that the beaux and wits, who seldom approached the principal 
 table, thought it a greac honour to have a pinch out of Dryden's snuff-box. Tom 
 Brown describes " a Wit and a Beau set up with little or no expense. A pair of red 
 stockings and a sword-knot set up one, and peeping once a day in at Will's, and two or 
 three second-hand sayings, the other." 
 
 Addison passed each day alike, and much in the manner that Dryden did. Dryden 
 employed his morning in writing, dined en famille, and then went to Will's, " only he 
 came home earlier o' nights." Pope, when very young, was impressed with such 
 veneration for Dryden, that he persuaded some friends to take him to Will's Coffee- 
 house, and was delighted that he could say that he had seen Dryden. Sir Charles 
 Wogan, too, brought up Pope from the forest of Windsor, to dress a la mode, and 
 introduce at Will's Coffee-house. Pope afterwards described Dryden as " a plump 
 man with a down look, and not very conversible ;" and Gibber remembered him " u 
 decent old man, arbiter of critical disputes at Will's." Prior sings of 
 
 "the younger Stiles, 
 Whom Dryden pedagogues at Will's !" 
 
 Most of the hostile criticisms on his plays, which Dryden has noticed in his various 
 prefaces, appear to have been made at his favourite haunt, Will's. Swift was accus- 
 tomed to speak disparagingly of Will's, as in his Rhapsody on Poetry : 
 
 " Be sure at Will's the following day 
 Lie snug, and hear what critics say." 
 
 Swift thought little of the frequenters: he used to say that "the worst con- 
 versation he ever heard in his life was at Will's," In the first number of the Tatter, 
 poetry is promised under the article of Will's Coffee-house. The place, however, 
 changed after Dryden's time. " You used to see songs, epigrams, and satires in the 
 hands of every man you met; you have now only a pack of cards; and instead of the 
 
 * Will's Coffee-house first had the title of the Red Cow (says Sir Walter Scott), then of the Rose, and, 
 we believe, is the same house alluded to in the pleasant story in the second number of the Tatter: 
 
 " Supper and friends expect we at the Rose." 
 The Rose, however, was a common sign for houses of public entertainment.
 
 COLLEGES. 273 
 
 cavils about the turn of the expression, the elegance of the style, and the like, the 
 learned now dispute only about the truth of the game." The Spectator is sometimes 
 seen " thrusting his head into a round of politicians at Will's, and listening with great 
 attention to the narratives that are made in these little circular audiences." Although 
 no exclusive subscription belonged to any of these, we find by the account which Colley 
 Gibber gives of his first visit to Will's, in Covent-garden, that it required an introduc- 
 tion to this society not to be considered as an impertinent intruder. Will's was the 
 open market for libels and lampoons. One Julian attended Will's, and dispersed among 
 the crowds who frequented that place of gay resort copies of the lampoons which had 
 been privately communicated to him by their authors. 
 
 After Dryden's death, in 1701, Will's continued for about ten years to be still the 
 Wits' Coffee-house. Pope, it is well known, courted the correspondence of the town 
 wits and Coffee-house critics. 
 
 WILL'S COFFEE-HOUSE, 7, Serle-street, Lincoln's-ihn, was much frequented by the 
 legal profession, and by actors and gay company when Portugal-street had its theatre. 
 In the Epicure's Almanac, 1813, it is described as " a house of the first-class for turtle 
 and venison, matured port, double-voyaged Madeira, and princely claret ; wherewithal 
 to wash down the dust of making law-books, and take out the inky blots from rotten 
 parchment bonds." It no longer exists. 
 
 There are in the metropolis about 1000 Coffee-shops or Coffee-rooms ; the establish- 
 ment of the majority of which may be traced to the cheapening of coffee and sugar, 
 and to the increase of newspapers and periodicals. About the year 1815, the London 
 Coffee-shops did not amount to 20, and there was scarcely a Coffee-house where coffee 
 could be had under 6d. a cup ; it may now be had at Coffee-shops at from Id. to 3d. 
 Some of these shops have from 700 to 1600 customers daily ; 40 copies of the daily 
 newspapers are taken in, besides provincial and foreign papers, and magazines. Cooked 
 meat is also to be had at Coffee-shops, at one of which three cwt. of ham and beef are 
 sometimes sold weekly. 
 
 COLLEGES. 
 
 ST. BARNABAS COLLEGE, Queen-street, Pimlico, consists of a church, schools, 
 and residentiary house for the clergy, built 1846-50, in the Pointed Early English 
 style, Cundy, architect. The residentiary house is for clergymen who attend to the 
 parochial duties of the district, minister in the church, teach in the schools, and super- 
 intend the twelve choristers. The schools were opened on St. Barnabas Day, 1847, and 
 the church in 1850. (See CHURCHES, p. 151.) The freehold site of the College was 
 given by the first Marquis of Westminster, and is in the poorest part of the district. 
 The College was built by subscription, to which the Eev. W. J. E. Bennett, then incum- 
 bent of the district, contributed the bulk of bis fortune, and the most zealous pastoral 
 care. A " Home of Refuge," under the management of the clergy of the parish, is 
 situated in the Commercial-road. Davis's Knightsbridge, p. 253. 
 
 CHURCH OF ENGLAND METROPOLITAN TRAINING- INSTITUTION, Highbury (late 
 Highbury College), was instituted 1849, to train pious persons as masters and mistresses 
 of juvenile schools connected with the Established Church, " upon principles Scriptural, 
 Evangelical, and Protestant." 
 
 CHURCH MISSIONARY COLLEGE, the, Barnsbury-place, Upper Islington, is an impor- 
 tant branch of the Church Missionary Society for Africa and the East ; and here the 
 students are trained for future missionaries. Among the early founders of this Society 
 were Wilberforce, Scott, Cecil, Newton, Venn, and Pratt : it was chiefly matured at 
 the " Eclectic Society" assembling then at the vestry of St. John's Chapel, Bedford- 
 row. The annual cost of the College operations averages 100,OOOZ., or about 1000/. for 
 every station. (See Low's Charities of London, pp. 412-13.) 
 
 CHEMISTRY, COLLEGE OF (ROYAL), 16, Hanover-square, was founded in 1845, for 
 instruction in Practical Chemistry at a moderate expense, and for the general advance- 
 ment of Chemical Science. The first stone of the three new laboratories was laid by 
 Prince Albert, President of the College, June 16, 1846 j James Lockyer, architect. 
 
 I
 
 274 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The Oxford-street front has a rusticated ground-floor, and an upper story decorated 
 with six Ionic columns. 
 
 DTJLWICH COLLEGE, in the pleasant hamlet of Dulwich, exactly five miles south of 
 Cornhill, was built and endowed in 1613-19, by Edward Alleyn, "bred a stage-player:" 
 he became a celebrated actor, erected the Fortune Theatre, and with Henslowe, was 
 co-proprietor of the Paris Bear-Garden at Bankside. Alleyn named the foundation at 
 Dulwich " the College of God's Gift ;" for a master and warden, four fellows, six poor 
 brethren, six sisters, and twelve scholars ; and thirty out-members lodged in alms- 
 houses. By the founder's statutes, the master and warden should bear the name of 
 Alleyn, or Allen, and both continue unmarried, or be removed from the College ; yet 
 the first master and warden (Alleyn's kinsmen) were both married, and Alleyn himself 
 was twice married. He bequeathed his books and musical instruments, and his " seal- 
 ring with his arms, to be worn by the master." The gross annual income of the 
 College is about 8000Z., or nearly tenfold the value settled by the founder. The only 
 eminent master or warden was John Allen, one of the earliest writers in the Edinburgh 
 Review. Little of the old buildings remains in the present structure, three sides of a 
 quadrangle ; the entrance gates are curiously wrought with the founder's arms, crest, 
 and motto " God's Gift." In the centre is the Chapel, with a low tower ; the altar- 
 piece is a copy, by Julio Romano, of Raphael's Transfiguration; the front is inscribed 
 with a Greek anagram, the same read either way. Alleyn (d. 1626) is buried here. 
 Adjoining the College is "the Grammar-school of God's Gift College," built by Barry, 
 R.A., in 1842 ; and the Dulwich Gallery of Pictures, famous for its Cuyps and Murillos ; 
 Soane, R.A., architect. 
 
 In the College and Master's Apartments are several portraits, including Alleyn the founder, full 
 length, in a black gown ; also left by Cartwright, player and bookseller, 1687, portraits of " the Actors " 
 Eiehard Burbage, Nat. Field, Richard Perkins, Thomas Bond, &c. ; and of the poet Drayton ; Lovelace 
 the poet, and " Althea " with her hair dishevelled ; a Lady in a richly-flowered dress, large ruff, and 
 pearls ; and a Alerchant and his Lady on panel, their hands resting upon a human skull placed on a 
 tomb, below which is a naked corpse. The library chimney-piece is made out of " the upper part of the 
 Queen's barge," purchased by Alleyn in 1618. The books number about 4200 volumes : those relating 1 
 to the theatre have been exchanged or filched away ; and a very valuable collection of old plays was 
 exchanged by the College with Garriek for modern works, and eventually purchased for the British 
 Museum. The College possesses an original letter written by Alleyn to his first wife, Joan Woodward, 
 from Chelmsford, in 1593, when he was one of " the Lord's strange Players." Here also is the MS 
 Diary and. Account Book of Phillip Henslowe, printed by the Shakspeare Society ; and in the old carved 
 Treasury Chest, a memorandum-book in Alleyn's handwriting ; besides other " Dulwich papers." See 
 Collier's Memoirs of Alleyn. 
 
 When the office of Master of the College becomes vacant, the Warden immediately succeeds to it, and 
 a new Warden is elected by the Master, the four Fellows, and six Assistants ; the latter being two 
 churchwardens from each of the parishes of St. Botolph's, Bishopsgate ; St. Luke's, Old-street-road ; 
 and St. Saviour's, Southwark. 
 
 In 1851, the Archbishop of Canterbury, as official Visitor of the College, extended 
 the education at the School to surveying, chemistry, engineering, and the allied sciences. 
 In 1858 was passed an Act of Parliament, by which its educational system will be kept 
 expanding in proportion to its wealth. There are now two Schools ; an upper, which 
 provides a more advanced education for boys of the better class, and a lower, intended 
 for the preparation of youths for commercial life ; each school about 300. The fees in 
 the upper school amount to 81. per annum for each boy, and in the lower to II. In 
 addition to these scholars there are foundation-boys in both schools, boarded and lodged 
 at the expense of the charity. To provide for this extension, new buildings were com- 
 menced in 1866, on a site of 30 acres, between the present College and the Crystal 
 Palace. The centre of the building is a large hall for dining and for the general 
 gathering of the boys ; there are a cloister between the two schools, and official resi- 
 dences for the masters. There is a Speech-day for classic and dramatic orations ; and 
 the performance of a play, preference being given to Shakspeare's. 
 
 GniSHAM COLLEGE, Basinghall-street, a handsome stone edifice, designed by George 
 Smith, was opened Nov. 2, 1843, for the Gresham Lectures. It is in the enriched 
 Roman style, and has a Corinthian entrance-portico. The interior contains a large 
 library, and professors' rooms ; and on the first floor a lecture-room, or theatre, to hold 
 500 persons. The building cost upwards of VOOOZ. The Lectures, on Astronomy, 
 Physic, Law, Divinity, Rhetoric, Geometry, and Music, are here read to the public 
 gratis, during "Term Time," daily, except Sundays ; in Latin, at 12 noon; English, at
 
 COLLEGES. 275 
 
 1 P.M. ; the Geometry and Music Lectures at 7 P.M. Gresham College was founded 
 by Sir Thomas Gresham, who, in 1575, gave his mansion-house and the rents arising 
 from the Royal Exchange, which, on the death of Lady Gresham, in 1597, were vested 
 in the Corporation of London and the Mercers' Company, who were conjointly to 
 nominate seven professors, to lecture successively, one on each day of the week ; their 
 salaries being 50?. per annum : a more liberal remuneration than Henry VIII. had 
 appointed for the Regius Professors of Divinity at Oxford and Cambridge, and equiva- 
 lent to 400Z. or 500J. at the present day. The Lectures commenced June 1597, in 
 Gresham's mansion, which, with almshouses and gardens, extended from Bishopsgate- 
 street westward into Broad-street. Here the Royal Society originated in 1645, and 
 met (with interruptions) until 1710. The buildings were then neglected, and in 1768 
 were taken down, and the Excise Office built upon their site ; the reading of the 
 Lectures was then removed to a room on the south-east side of the Royal Exchange ; 
 the lecturers' salaries being raised to 100Z. each, in place of the lodging they had in 
 the old College, of which there is a view, by Vertue, in Ward's Lives of the G-resham 
 Professors, 1740.* On the rebuilding of the Royal Exchange, the Gresham Committee 
 provided a separate edifice for the College, as above. Above its entrance portico are 
 sculptured the following arms : 
 
 City of London. Gresham. Zfercers' Company. 
 
 Arg. a cross, and in Arg. a chev. erm. Gu. a demi-virgin couped below the shoulders, issu- 
 
 the dexter chief a betw. three mul- ing from clouds, all ppr. veiled or crowned with 
 
 sword erect gu. lets pierced sa. an eastern coronet of the last, her hair dishevelled, 
 
 all within a bordure nebuly arg. 
 
 HERALDS' COLLEGE (College of Arms), College of Advocates, and Doctors of Law, 
 east side of Benet's hill, Doctors' Commons, was built in 1683, from the design of Sir 
 Christopher Wren, upon the site of the former College (Derby House), destroyed in 
 the Great Fire ; but all the valuable documents and books were fortunately saved. Sir 
 William Dugdale, then Norroy King-of-Arms, built the north-west corner at his own 
 expense : the hollow arch of the gateway on Benet's-hill is a curiosity. On the north 
 side of the court-yard is the grand hall, in which the Court of Chivalry was formerly 
 held. On the right is the old library, opening into a fire-proof record-room, built in 
 1844 : to contain the MS. collection of Heralds' visitations, records of grants of arms, 
 royal licenses, official funeral certificates, and public ceremonials. Here, too, were several 
 portraits, including those of Sir Gilbert Dethick, Garter King-at-Arms ; John Anstis, 
 Garter ; Peter Le Neve, Norroy ; John Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, &c. In the grand 
 hall was the judicial seat of the Earl Marshal ; " but the chair is empty, and the sword 
 unswayed." On the south side of the quadrangle is a paved terrace, on the wall of 
 which are two escutcheons ; one bearing the arms (and legs) of Man, and the other the 
 Eagle's claw both ensigns of the house of Stanley, and denoting the site of old Derby 
 House, though they are not ancient. 
 
 The College of Arms received the first charter of incorporation from Richard III., who gave them 
 for the residence and assembling of the Heralds, Poulteney's Inn, " a righte fayre and stately house," in 
 Coklharbour. They were dispossessed of this property by Henry VII., when they removed to the 
 Hospital of Our Lady of Rouuceval, at Charing Cross, where now stands Northumberland House. They 
 next removed to Derby or Stanley House, on St. Benet's-hill, granted by Queen Mary, July 18, 1555, to 
 Sir Gilbert Dethick, Garter King-of-Arms, and to the other Heralds and Pursuivants at Arms, and their 
 successors. The service of the Pursuivants, and of the Heralds, and of the whole College, is used in 
 marshalling and ordering Coronations, Marriages, Christenings, Funerals, Interviews, Feasts of Kings 
 and Princes, Cavalcades, Shows, Justs, Tournaments, Combats, before the Constable and Marshal, &c. 
 Also they take care of the Coats of Arms, and of the Genealogies of the Nobility and Gentry. Anciently, 
 the Kings-at-Arms were solemnly crowned before the sovereign, and took an oath : during which the 
 Earl Marshal poured a bowl of wine on his head, put on him a richly embroidered velvet Coat of Arms, 
 a Collar of Esses, a jewel and gold chain, and a crown of gold. Chamberlayne's Magnae Britannia 
 Notitia, 1726. 
 
 The College has, since 1622, consisted of thirteen officers : Kings: Garter, Principal ; 
 Clarencieux ; Norroy. Heralds : Lancaster, Somerset, Richmond, Windsor, York, 
 Chester. Pursuivants : Rouge Croix, Blue Mantle, Portcullis, Blue Dragon. These 
 hold their places by appointment of the Duke of Norfolk, as Hereditary Earl Marshal. 
 Few rulers have been insensible to the pageantry of arms : even the royalty-hating 
 
 * In Vertue's print, at the entrance archway are two figures, designed for Dr. Woodward and Dr. 
 Mead, Professors, who having quarrelled and drawn swords, Mead obtained the advantage, and com- 
 manded Woodward to beg his life : " No, Doctor, that I will not, till I am your patient," was the witty 
 reply ; but he yielded, and is here shewn tendering: his sword to Mead. 
 
 T 2
 
 276 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Cromwell appointed his King-at-Arms ; and the heraldic expenses of his funeral were 
 between 400/. and 5001. The Court of Chivalry was nearly as oppressive as the 
 detestable Star Chamber ; for we read of its imprisoning and ruining a merchant- 
 citizen for calling a swan a goose ; and fining Sir George Markham 10,OOOZ. for saying, 
 after he had horse-whipped the saucy huntsman of Lord Darcy, that if his master 
 justified his insolence, he would horse-whip him also. The severest punishment of the 
 Court is the degradation from the honour of knighthood, of which only three instances 
 are recorded in three centuries : this consisted in breaking and defacing the knight's 
 sword and gilt spurs, and pronouncing him " an infamous errant knave." In our time, 
 the banner of a Knight of the Bath has been pulled down by the heralds, and kicked 
 out of Henry VII.'s Chapel at Westminster. The herald's visitations were liable to 
 strange abuses, and ceased with the seventeenth century. Another trusty service of the 
 Officers-at-Arms is the bearing of letters and messages to sovereign princes and persons 
 in authority ; these officers were the " Chivalers of Armes," or Knights Eiders, the 
 original King's Messengers ; and adjoining the College is Knight-Rider-street. 
 
 Among the Curiosities of the College are, the Warwick Roll, with figures of all the 
 Earls of Warwick from the Conquest to Richard III. ; a Tournament Roll of Henry 
 VIII.'s time ; a sword, dagger, and turkois ring, said to have belonged to James IV. 
 of Scotland, who fell at Flodden-field ; portrait of the warrior Talbdt, Earl of Shrews- 
 bury, from his tomb in Old St. Paul's; pedigree of the Saxon kings from Adam, with 
 beautiful pen-and ink illustrations (temp. Henry VIII.); and a volume in the hand- 
 writing of " the learned Camden," created Clarencieux in 1597. Among the other 
 officers of note were Sir William Dugdale, Garter ; Elias Ashmole, Windsor Herald, 
 who wrote the History of the Order of the Garter; John Anstis, Garter; Francis 
 Sandford, Lancaster Herald, who wrote an excellent Genealogical History of England ; 
 Sir John Vanbrugh, who was made Clarencieux as a compliment for building Castle 
 Howard, but sold the situation for 20001. ; Francis Grose, Richmond Herald ; and 
 Edmund Lodge, Lancaster Herald. (See the excellent paper by J. R. Planche, Somerset 
 Herald, in Knight's London, vol. vi.) 
 
 A Grant of Arms is thus obtained : The applicant employs any member he pleases of the Heralds' 
 Office, and through him, presents a memorial to the Earl Marshal, setting forth that he the memorialist 
 is not entitled to arms, or cannot prove his right to such ; and praying that his Grace will issue his 
 warrant to the King of Arms authorizing them to grant and confirm to him due and proper armorial 
 ensigns, to be borne according to the laws of heraldry by him and his descendants. This memorial is 
 presented, and a warrant is issued by the Earl Marshal, under which a patent is made out, exhibiting 
 in the corner a painting of the armorial ensigns granted, and describing in official terms the proceed- 
 ings that have taken place, and the correct blazon of the arms. This patent is registered in the books of 
 the Heralds' College, and receives the signatures of the Garter and of one the Provincial Kings of Arms. 
 Thus an " Armiger " is made. The fees on a Grant of Anns amount to seventy-five guineas ; an ordi- 
 nary search of the records is 6*. ; a general search, one guinea. Arms that are not held under a Grant 
 must descend to the bearer from an ancestor recorded in the Herald's visitations. No prescription, 
 however long, will confer a right to a coat-armour. If the grantee be resident in any place north of the 
 Trent, his patent is signed by Garter and Norroy Kings of Arms ; if he reside south of that river the 
 signatures are those of Garter and Clarencieux Kings of Arms. 
 
 The arrangement of the College consists of several houses occupied by the Doctors of 
 Law, with the Courts, noble Dining-room and Library, large open quadrangular area 
 and garden ; exclusive of which the number of rooms is 140. The total area is 34,138 
 feet, or more than three-quarters of an acre. The whole of the buildings are to 
 be taken down in forming the new street from Blackfriars Bridge to the Mansion 
 House. 
 
 KING'S COI/LEGE AND SCHOOL, Somerset House, extend from the principal entrance 
 in the Strand to the east wing of the river-front, designed by Sir William Chambers, 
 but left unfinished by him : its completion by the College being one of the conditions 
 of the grant of the site : here resided the Principal and Professors. The College 
 fafade, designed by Sir Robert Smirke, R.A., is 304 feet in length, and consists of a 
 centre, decorated with Corinthian columns and pilasters ; and two wings with pilasters, 
 upon a basement of piers supporting arches, which extend the whole length of the 
 building. On the interior ground-floor are the theatres or lecture-rooms, and the 
 hall, with two grand staircases, which ascend to the Museum and Library ; the Chapel 
 occupying the centre. Over the lofty entrance-arch in the Strand are the arms of the 
 College : motto, " Sancte et sapienter." (See MUSEUMS.)
 
 COLLEGES. 277 
 
 King's College and Schools are proprietary. The College was founded in 1828, for the education of 
 youth of the metropolis in the principles of the Established Church. There are five departments : 
 1. Theological; 2. General Literature; 3. Applied Sciences ; 4. Medical; 5. The School. The age for 
 admission to the latter is from 9 to 16 ; and each proprietor can nominate two pupils to the School, or 
 one to the School and one to the College at the same time. The first Conference of Degrees by the 
 University of London took place in the hall of King's College, May 1, 1850. In connexion with the 
 Medical Schools has been established King's College Hospital, in Portugal-street, Lincoln's-Inn-fields. 
 
 ST. MAEK'S TRAINING COLLEGE, Chelsea, was established for training school- 
 masters for the National Society. The College, fronting King's-road, is of Italian 
 design; the Chapel, facing the Fulham-road, is Byzantine; to the west is an 
 octagonal Practising School ; and the grounds contain about fifteen acres. The term 
 oi' training is three years : it comprises, with general education, the industrial system, 
 as the business of male servants in the house, managing the farm produce, and garden- 
 ing. Still, the religious service of the Chapel is, as it were, the keystone of the 
 system of the College. (See CHAPELS, p. 214.) There are also other training insti- 
 tutions connected with the National Society.* 
 
 NEW COLLEGE, St. John's Wood, was commenced building in 1850, when the first 
 stone was laid, May 11, by the Ilev. Dr. John Pye Smith, known as a divine, and as a 
 man of science from his work on Scripture and Geology. The building was completed 
 in 1851, and opened October 8. It has been erected by the Independent Dissenters 
 for the education of their ministers, and is founded on the union of Homerton Old 
 College and Coward and Highbury Colleges. The classes are divided into two faculties, 
 Arts and Theology ; the former open to lay students, and having chairs of Latin and 
 Greek, mathematics, moral and mental philosophy, and natural history. The building, 
 of Bath stone, designed by Emmett, in the Tudor (Henry VII.) style, is situated about 
 a mile and a half north of Regent's-park, between the Finchley-road and Bellsize-lane. 
 The frontage is 270 feet, having a central tower 80 feet high. The interior dressings are 
 of Caen stone, and the fittings of oak ; some of the ceilings are of wrought wood-work, 
 and the windows of elaborate beauty. The main building contains lecture-room, 
 council-room, laboratory, museum, and students' day-rooms ; at the north end is the 
 Principal's residence, and at the south a library of more than 20,000 volumes. 
 
 PHYSICIANS, COLLEGE OF, was founded in 1518, by Linacre, physician to Henry VII. 
 and V11I., who lived in Knight-Rider-street, and there received his friends, Erasmus, 
 Latimer, and Sir Thomas More. Linacre was the first President of the College, and 
 the members met at his house, which he bequeathed to them ; the estate is still the 
 property of the College. Thence they removed to a house in Amen Corner, where 
 Harvey lectured on his great discovery, and built in the College garden a Museum, 
 upon the site of the present Stationers' Hall. The old College and Museum being 
 destroyed in the Great Fire, the members met for a time at the President's house, until 
 Wren built for them a College, in Warwick-lane, upon part of the site of the mansion 
 of the famed Earls of Warwick ; the new College was commenced in 1674, but not 
 completed until 1689. It had an octangular porch of entrance, 40 feet in diameter, 
 the most striking portion of Wren's design. The interior, above the porch, formed 
 the lecture-room, which was light, and very lofty, being open upwards to the roof 
 of the edifice. It was opened in 1689 : the entrance-porch was surmounted by a dome, 
 as described by Garth in his satire on the quarrel between the Apothecaries' Company 
 and the College : 
 
 " Not far from that most celebrated placet 
 Where angry Justice shews her awful face, 
 \Vhere little villains must submit to fate, 
 That great ones may enjoy the world in state, 
 There stands a Dome, majestic to the sight, 
 And sumptuous arches bear its oval height ; 
 A golden globe, plac'd high with artful skill, 
 Seems to the distant sight a gilded pill." The Dispensary. 
 
 " The theatre was amphitheatrical in plan, and one of the best that can be imagined 
 
 * Kneller Hall (between Hounslow and Twickenham) was formerly in the possession of Sir Godfrey 
 Kneller, who pulled down the manor-house and erected a new house on the same site, as inscribed upon 
 a stone: " The building of this house was begun by Sir Godfrey Kneller, Bart., A.D. 1709." It had a 
 sumptuously painted staircase, by Kneller's own hand. The hall was almost wholly taken down, and 
 a Training School was built upon its site. 
 
 t Newgate.
 
 278 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 for seeing, hearing, and the due classification of the students, and for the display of 
 anatomical demonstrations or philosophical experiments upon a table in the centre of 
 the arena, of any building of its size in existence." (Elmes.) This portion was latterly 
 occupied as a meat-market, and the other College buildings by braziers and brass- 
 founders. The buildings comprised a lofty hall, with a magnificent staircase ; a dining- 
 room, with a ceiling elaborately enriched with foliage and flowers in stucco, and carved 
 oak chimney-piece and gallery. On the north and south were the residences of the 
 College officers ; on the west, the principal front, consisting of two stories, the lower 
 decorated with Ionic pillars, the upper by Corinthian and by a pediment in the centre 
 at the top. Immediately beneath the pediment was the statue of Charles II., with a 
 Latin inscription. On the east was the octangular side, with the gilt ball above, and 
 a statue of Sir John Cutler below. It appears by the College books that, in 1675, Sir 
 John Cutler, a near relation of Dr. Whistler, the President, was desirous of con- 
 tributing towards the building of the College, and a committee was appointed to thank 
 him for his kind intentions. Cutler accepted their thanks, renewed his promise, and 
 specified parts of the building of which he intended to bear the expense. In 1680, 
 statues in honour of the King and Sir John were voted by the members ; and nine 
 years afterwards, the College being then completed, it was resolved to borrow money 
 of Sir John Cutler to discharge the debt incurred ; but the sum is not specified. It 
 appears, however, that in 1699 Sir John's executors made a demand on the College 
 for 70001., supposed to include money actually lent, money pretended to be given, but 
 set down as a debt in Sir John's books, and the interest on both. The executors, 
 however, accepted 20001., and dropped their claim to the other five. Thus Sir John's 
 promise, which he never performed, had obtained him the statue ; but the College 
 wisely obliterated the inscription which, in the warmth of gratitude, had been placed 
 beneath the figure : 
 
 " Omnis Cutleri cedat Labor Amphitheatre." 
 
 Hence it was called Cutler's Theatre, in Warwick -lane. The miser Baronet has, how- 
 ever, received a more enduring monument from the hand of Pope, in his Moral 
 Essay : 
 
 " His Grace's fate sage Cutler could foresee, 
 
 And well (he thought) advised him, ' Live like me." 
 
 As well his Grace replied, ' Like you, Sir John ? 
 
 That I can do, when all 1 have is gone.' " 
 
 The College buildings were mostly taken down in 1866 ; the carved oak fittings and 
 a celebrated stucco ceiling being preserved, with the statue of Cutler. In the garrets 
 of the old College were formerly dried the herbs for the use of the dispensary ; and, on 
 the left of the entrance portico, beneath a bell-handle, there remained till the last, the 
 inscription, " Mr. Lawrence, surgeon night bell," recalling the days when the house 
 belonged to a learned institution. We remember it leased to the Equitable Loan (or 
 Pawnbrokirig) Company, when the " Golden Globe" was partially symbolical of its 
 appropriation. 
 
 The Physicians, in 1825, had emigrated westward, where Sir Robert Smirke built 
 for them a College of classic design, in Pall Mall East and Trafalgar-square, at the 
 cost of 30,OOOZ. It was opened June 25, 1825, with a Latin oration by the President, 
 Sir Henry Halford. The style is Grecian-Ionic, with an elegant hexastyle Ionic por- 
 tico. The interior is sumptuous. In the dining-room are portraits of Dr. Hamey, 
 the Commonwealth physician ; of Dr. Freind, imprisoned in the Tower ; and of Sir 
 Edmund King, who bled Charles II., in a fit, without consulting the Royal physicians, 
 and who was promised for the service lOOOZ. by the Council, which was never paid. 
 In the oak-panelled Censors' Room is a portrait of Dr. Sydenham, by Mary Beale ; of 
 Linacre, surmounted by the College arms in oak, and richly-emblazoned shield ; of 
 the thoughtful Sir Thomas Browne, who wrote Beligio Medici ; of the good-humoured 
 Sir Samuel Garth, by Kneller ; and of Cardinal Wolsey and Henry VIII. (after Holbein), 
 and Andreas Vesalius, the Italian anatomist ; other portraits ; and a marble bust of 
 Sir Henry Halford. In the Library, lighted by three beautiful lanterns, is a fine por- 
 trait of Radcliffe, by Kneller ; and of Harvey, by Jansen. Here is a gallery filled 
 with cases, containing preparations, including some of the nerves and blood-vessels, by
 
 COLLEGES. 279 
 
 Harvey, and used by him in his lectures on the discovery of the circulation of the 
 blood. Adjoining is a small theatre, or lecture-room, where are busts of George IV., 
 by Chantrey ; Dr. Mead, by Koubiliac ; Dr. Sydenham, by Wilton ; Harvey, by Schee- 
 inakers ; Dr. Baillie, by Chantrey ; Dr. Babington, by Behnes. Here also is a picture 
 of Hunter lecturing on Anatomy before Royal Academicians (portraits), by Zoffany ; 
 besides a collection of physicians' canes. The whole may be seen by the order of a 
 physician, Fellow of the College. The Harveian Oration (in Latin) is delivered annu- 
 ally by a Fellow, usually on June 25. 
 
 In the Library is a copy of the Homer published at Florence in 1488, an immortal work for this early 
 period of typography : in the whiteness and strength of the paper, the fineness of the character, the 
 elegant disposition of the matter, the exact distance between the lines, the large margin, and various 
 ornaments. 
 
 PEECEPTOES, COLLEGE OF (the), 28, Bloomsbury-square, a proprietary institution, 
 established 1847, to elevate the character of the profession of teachers, irrespective of 
 distinctions of sects and parties ; and to grant certificates and diplomas to candidates 
 duly qualified, after examination. 
 
 QUEEN'S COLLEGE, LONDON, 67, Harley-street, was established 1848, for general 
 female education, and for granting to Governesses certificates of qualificcition. The 
 instruction is given in lectures by gentlemen connected with King's College, and other 
 professors ; there are also preparatory classes and evening classes, the latter gratuitously : 
 the whole superintended by ladies as visitors. 
 
 SIGN COLLEGE, London Wall, is built on the site of the Priory of Elsinge Spital, 
 and consists of a college for the clergy of London, and almshouses for twenty poor 
 persons, founded 1623, by the will of Dr. Thomas White, vicar of St. Dunstan's-in- 
 thc-West ; to which one of his executors, the Rev. John Simson, rector of St. Olave's, 
 Hart-street, added a library. " Here," says Defoe, " expectants may lodge till they are 
 provided with houses in the several parishes in which they serve cure ;" and the Fellows 
 of the College are the incumbents of parishes within the City and Liberties of London. 
 The library is their property : a third of the books was destroyed in the Great Fire, 
 which consumed great part of the College. The collection contains more than 50,000 
 volumes, mostly theological, among which are the Jesuits' books seized in 1679. By 
 the Copyright Act, 8 Anne c. 19, the library received a gratuitous copy of every pub- 
 lished work till 1836, when this privilege was commuted for a Treasury grant of 363Z. 
 a year, now its chief maintenance. It is open to the clergy of the diocese and their 
 friends, and to the public by an order from one of the Fellows ; but books are not 
 allowed to be taken out, except by Fellows. Here are several pictures, including a 
 costume-portrait of Mrs. James, a citizen's wife in the reign of William and Mary. 
 
 STTKGEONS, ROYAL COLLEGE OF, on the south side of Lincoln's-inn- fields, was 
 originally built by Dance, R.A., for the College, who removed here from their Hall on 
 the site of the New Sessions House, Old Bailey, on their incorporation by royal charter 
 in 1800. It was almost entirely rebuilt by Barry, R.A., in 1835-37, when the stone 
 front was extended from 84 to 108 feet, and a noble Ionic entablature added, with this 
 inscription : JDoES CoLLEGii CHIRVBGOBVM LONDINENSIS DIPLOMATS REGIO 
 
 COEPOEATI A.D. MDCCC. 
 
 The interior contains two Museums, a Theatre, Library, and vestibule with screens 
 of Ionic columns. On the staircase-landing are busts of Cheselden and Sir W. Banks. 
 In the Library are portraits of Sir Cajsar Hawkins, by Hogarth ; Serjeant-Surgeon 
 Wiseman (Charles II.'s time); and the cartoon of Holbein's picture of the granting of 
 the charter to the Barber-Surgeons. In the Council Room (where sits the Court of 
 Examiners) are Reynolds's celebrated portrait of John Hunter, and other pictures : 
 bust of John Hunter, by Flaxrnan ; of Cliue, Sir W. Blizard, Abernethy, and George III. 
 and George IV., by Chantrey ; of Pott, by Hollins ; and Samuel Cooper, by Butler. 
 The Museum, with Hunter's collection for its nucleus, was erected in 1836 ; and the 
 College has since been enlarged by adding to it the site of the Portugal-street Theatre, 
 late Copeland's china warehouse, taken down in 1848. (See MUSEUMS.) In the 
 Theatre is annually delivered the Hunterian Oration (in Latin), by a Fellow of tho 
 College, on Feb. 14, John Hunter's birthday.
 
 280 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 UNIVERSITY COLLEGE, east side of Upper Gower-street, was designed by Wilkins, 
 R.A. ; the first stone laid by the Duke of Sussex, April 30, 1827 j and the College 
 opened Oct. 1, 1828. It has a bold and rich central portico of twelve Corinthian 
 columns and a pediment, elevated on a plinth 19 feet, and approached by numerous 
 steps, arranged with fine effect. Behind the pediment is a cupola with a lantern light, 
 in imitation of a peripteral temple ; in the Great Hall under which are the original 
 models of the principal works of John Flaxman, R.A., presented by Miss Denman. In 
 the vestibule is Flaxman's restoration of the Farnese Hercules ; beneath the dome is 
 his grand life-size Michael and Satan ; and around the walls are his various monu- 
 mental and other bas-reliefs ; " in all the monumental compositions there is a touch- 
 ing story, and the sublimity of the poetic subjects is of a quality which the Greeks 
 themselves have never excelled." (Art Journal.) An adjoining room contains Flax- 
 man's Shield of Achilles, and other works. 
 
 The University building extends about 400 feet in length : in the ground- floor are 
 lecture-rooms, cloisters for the exercise of the pupils, two semicircular theatres, chemical 
 laboratory, museum of materia medica, &c. In the upper floor, on entering by the 
 great door of the portico, the whole extent of the building is seen. Here are the 
 great hall, museums of natural history and anatomy, two theatres, two libraries, and 
 rooms with naturo-philosophical apparatus. The principal library is richly decorated 
 in the Italian style ; here is a marble statue of Locke. The Laboratory, completed 
 from the plan of Prof. Donaldson, in 1845, combines all the recent improvements of 
 our own schools with that of Professor Liebig, at Giessen. 
 
 University College is proprietary, and was founded in 1828, principally aided by Lord Brougham, the 
 poet Campbell, and Dr. Birkbeck, for affording " literary and scientific education at a moderate ex- 
 " 
 
 its professors has been founded University College Hospital, opposite the College, in which the medical 
 students receive improved instruction in medicine and surgery. 
 
 Wilkins also designed the National Gallery, a far less happy work than University College, which 
 is unfinished ; the original design comprised two additional smaller cupolas. The works seem hardly 
 to be the production of the same architect ; in the National Gallery the dome being as unsightly a feature 
 in composition as in the College it is graceful. 
 
 In the rear of the College, on the west side of Gordon-square, is University Hall, 
 designed by Prof. Donaldson, 1849, and built for instruction in Theology and Moral 
 Philosophy, which are excluded by the College. The architecture is Elizabethan-Tudor, 
 in red brick and stone ; the grouping of the windows is cleverly managed. In the 
 Great Hall the students breakfast and dine ; and the establishment is a sort of students' 
 club-house or model lodging-establishment. 
 
 WESLEYAN NOBMAL COLLEGE, Horseferry-road, Westminster (James Wilson, 
 architect), has been erected for the training of schoolmasters and mistresses, and the 
 education of the children in the locality. It is in the Late Perpendicular style, of 
 brick, with stone dressings; and consists of a Principal's Eesidence, a quadrangular 
 Normal College for 100 students, with Lecture and Dining Halls ; Practising Schools, 
 and Masters' Houses : beyond is the Model School, in Early English style, with porch 
 and lancet windows : the buildings and playgrounds occupying upwards of 15 acres, 
 with a large central octagonal tower, which, with the embattled parapets, pointed 
 gables, and traceried oriel- windows, forms a picturesque architectural group. 
 
 COLOSSEUM (THEJ. 
 
 TpHE Colosseum, upon the east side of the Regent's-park, was originally planned by 
 -*- Mr. Hornor, a land-surveyor; and the building was commenced for him 1824, 
 by Peto and Grissell, from the designs of Decimus Burton. The chief portion is a 
 polygon of sixteen faces, 126 feet in diameter externally, the walls being 3 feet thick 
 at the ground; and the height to the glazed doom is 112 feet. Fronting the west is 
 an entrance portico, with six Grecian-Doric fluted columns, said to be full-sized models 
 of those of the Parthenon. The external dome is supported by a hemispherical dome, 
 constructed of ribs formed of thin deals in thicknesses, breaking joint and bolted 
 together, on the principle educed by M. Philibert de 1'Orme in the 14th century, and
 
 COLOSSEUM (THE). 281 
 
 stated to be introduced here for the first time in England. The second dome also 
 supports a third, which forms a ceiling of the picture, to be presently described. The 
 building resembles a miniature of the Pantheon, and has been named from its colossal 
 size, and not from any resemblance to the Colosseum at Rome; but it more closely 
 resembles the Roman Catholic Church at Berlin.* 
 
 The building is lighted entirely by the glazed dome, there being no side windows. 
 Upon the canvassed walls was painted the Panoramic View of London, completed in 
 1829 ; for which Mr. Hornor, in 1821-2, made the sketches at several feet above the 
 present cross of St. Paul's Cathedral (as described at p. 115). The view of the picture 
 was obtained from two galleries: the first corresponds, in relation to the prospect, with 
 the first gallery at the summit of the dome of St. Paul's; the second with the upper 
 gallery of the cathedral. Upon this last gallery is placed the identical copper ball 
 which formerly occupied the summit of St. Paul's; above it is a fac-siinile of the 
 cross ; and over these is hung the small wooden cabin in which Mr. Hornor made his 
 drawings. A small flight of stairs -leads from this spot to the open parapet gallery 
 which surrounds the domed roof of the Colosseum. The commuication with the 
 galleries is by spiral staircases, built on the outside of a lofty cylindrical core in the 
 centre of the rotunda ; within which is also the " Ascending Room," capable of con- 
 taining ten or twelve persons. This chamber is decorated in the Elizabethan style, and 
 lighted through a stained-glass ceiling ; it is raised by secret machinery to the required 
 elevation, or gallery, whence the company viewed the panorama. The hoisting mechanism 
 is a long shaft connected with a steam-engine outside the building, working a chain 
 upon a drum-barrel, and counterbalanced by two other chains, the ascending motion 
 being almost imperceptible. 
 
 The painting of the picture was a marvel of art. It covers upwards of 46,000 
 square feet, or more than an acre of canvas ; the dome on which the sky is painted 
 is 30 feet more in diameter than the cupola of St. Paul's ; and the circumference of the 
 horizon from the point of view is nearly 130 miles. Excepting the dome of St. 
 Paul's Cathedral, there is no painted surface in Great Britain to compare with this in 
 mngnitude or shape, and even that offers but a small extent in comparison. It is 
 inferred that the scaffolding used for constructing St. Paul's cupola was left for Sir 
 James Thornhill, in painting the interior; and his design consisted of several com- 
 partments, each complete in itself. Not so this Panorama of London, which, as one 
 subject, required unity, harmony, accuracy of linear and aerial perspective ; the com- 
 mencement and finishing of lines, colours, and forms, and their nice unity; the per- 
 pendicular canvas and concave ceiling of stucco was not to be seen by, or even known 
 to, the spectator ; and the union of a horizontal and vertical surface, though used, 
 was not to be detected. After the sketches were completed upon 2000 sheets of 
 paper, and the building finished, no individual could be found to paint the picture in a 
 sufficiently short period, and many artists were of necessity employed : thus, by the 
 use of platforms slung by ropes, with baskets for conveying the colours, temporary 
 bridges, and other ingenious contrivances, the painting was executed, but in the 
 peculiar style, taste, and notion of each artist ; to reconcile which,' or bring them to 
 form one vast whole, was a novel, intricate, and hazardous task, which many persons 
 tried, but ineffectually. At length, Mr. E. T. Parris, possessing an accurate knowledge 
 of mechanics and perspective, and practical execution in painting, combined with great 
 enthusiasm and perseverance, accomplished the labour principally with his own hands ; 
 standing in a cradle or box, suspended from cross poles or shears, and lifted as 
 required, by ropes. 
 
 The Panorama was viewed from a balustraded gallery, with a projecting frame 
 
 * In 1769, there was constructed in the Champs Elyse'es, at Paris, a vast building called Le Colisee, 
 for fetes in honour of the marriage of the Dauphin, afterwards Louis XVI. Here were dances, hydrau- 
 lics, pyrotechnics, &c. ; the building did not resemble the Pantheon, as ours in the Regent's-park, but 
 the Colosseum at Rome. It contained a rotunda, saloons, and circular galleries, skirted with shops, 
 besides trellis-work apartments and four caffs. In the centre of Le Cirque was a vast basin of 
 water, with fountains ; beyond which fireworks were displayed. The whole edifice was completely 
 covered with green trellis-work ; the entire space occupied by the buildings, courts, and gardens, was 
 sixteen acres ; and the cost was two and a half millions of money. There were prize exhibitions of pic- 
 tures ; and Mr. Hornor projected similar displays at the Colosseum, but the idea was not taken up by 
 the British artists. In 1778, the Parisian building was closed, and two years afterwards was taken 
 down. It is mentioned by Dr. Johnson, in his Tour, in 1775.
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 beneath it, in exact imitation of the outer dome of St. Paul's Cathedral, the perspective 
 and light and shade of the campanile towers in the western front being admirably 
 managed. The spectator was recommended to take four distinct stations in the gallery, 
 and then inspect in succession the views towards the north, east, south, and west ; 
 altogether representing the Metropolis of 1821, the date of the sketches. 
 
 The North, comprises Newgate-market, the old College of Physicians, Christ's Hospital (before tha 
 rebuilding of the Great Hall), St. Bartholomew's Hospital, and Smithfield Market; and the New 
 General Post-Office, then building. These are the objects near the foreground: beyond them are 
 Clerkenwell, the Charterhouse, and the lines of Goswell-street, St. John-street, Pentonville, Islington, 
 and Hoxton. In the next, or third distance, are Primrose-hill, Chalk Farm, Hampstead, and a con- 
 tinued line of wooded hills to Highgate, where are the bold Archway and the line of the Great North 
 Koad from Islington; whilst Stamford-hill, Muswell-hill, part of Epping Forest, and portions of Essex, 
 Hertfordshire, and Middlesex bound the horizon. 
 
 The East displays a succession of objects all differing from the former view in effect, character, and 
 associations. Whilst the north exhibits the rustic scenery of the environs of London, the east pre- 
 sents us with the Thames, and its massive warehouses and spacious docks; the one a scene of rural 
 quiet, the other a focus of commercial activity. In the foreground is St. Paul's School-house; whilst 
 the lines of Cheapside, Cornhill, Leadenhall-street, and Whitechapel carry the eye through the very 
 heart of the City, and thence to Bow, Stratford, and a fine tract of woodlands, in Essex. On the ri^-lit 
 and left of this line are the towers and steeples of Bow Church, St. Mary Woolnoth ; St. Michael, Corn- 
 hill ; St. Ethelburga, Bishopsgate, and others of subordinate height ; the Bank, Mansion-house, Koyal 
 Exchange (since destroyed by fire), East India House, and several of the Companies' Halls. Another 
 line, nearly parallel, but a little to the east, extends through Watling-street (the old Roman road) to 
 Cannon-street, Tower-street, and the prison, palace, fortress, and museum the Tower. The course of 
 the Thames, with its vessels and wilderness of masts, the docks and warehouses on its banks : the palace- 
 hospital of Greenwich and the beautiful country beyond it, contrasted with the levels of the Essex bank 
 are all defined in this direction. 
 
 Southward, the eye traces the undulating line of the Surrey hills in the distance ; and in the fore- 
 part of the picture the Thames, with its countless craft, among which are civic barges and steamers, 
 characteristic of ancient and modern London. Here also are shown old London-bridge, and Southwark, 
 Blackfriars, Waterloo, Westminster, and Vauxhall Bridges, whilst the river-banks are crowded with 
 interesting structures, among which are the old Houses of Parliament. 
 
 The Western view presents a new and different series of objects. First, in effect, in beauty of exe- 
 cution and imposing character, are the two campanili, the pediment, and the roof of the western end, 
 of St. Paul's Cathedral. The painting here is masterly and magical ; it BO deceives the eye and the 
 imagination, that the spectator can scarcely believe these towers to be depicted on the same canvas and 
 the same surface as the whole line of objects from Ludgate Hill to St. James's-Park. This view to the 
 west embraces the long lines of Ludgate-hill, Fleet-street, and the Strand, Piccadilly, &c. ; Holbprn-hill 
 and Oxford-street, with the Inns of Court; Westminster; numerous churches and public buildings, 
 right and left ; and Hyde-park, Kensington-gardens, and a long stretch of flat country to Windsor. 
 Erief Account, by John Brittou, F.S.A., 1829. 
 
 A staircase leads to the upper gallery, whence the spectator again commanded the 
 whole picture in a sort of bird's-eye view. Another flight of stairs communicates 
 with the room containing the copper ball and fac-simile cross of St. Paul's. A few 
 more steps conduct to the outer gallery at the summit ; where, in fine weather, the 
 spectator might compare the colouring, perspective, and effects of nature with those 
 of art within. 
 
 The Panorama was first exhibited in the spring of 1829. It was almost repainted 
 by Mr. Parris in 1845 ; when also a Panorama of London by Night, essentially the 
 same as the day view, was exhibited in front of the latter, and had to be erected and 
 illuminated every evening : the moonlight effect upon the rippling river ; the floating, 
 fleecy clouds and twinkling stars ; the lights upon the bridges, in the shops, and in the 
 open markets, formed a rare triumph of artistic illusion. In May, 1848, a moonlight 
 Panorama of Paris, of the same dimensions as the night view of London, was painted 
 by Danson, and was very attractive in illustration of the localities of the recent 
 Eevolution. In 1850, both views gave way to a Panorama of the Lake of Thun, in 
 Switzerland, painted in tempera by Danson and Son ; and in 1851, the Panorama of 
 London was reproduced as a more appropriate sight for visitors during the International 
 Exhibition season. 
 
 The Picture, however, was but one of the many features of the Colosseum. The 
 basement of the Rotunda has a superb Ionic colonnade, as a sculpture-gallery, named 
 the Glyptotheca : the columns and entablature are richly gilt ; and the frieze, nearly 
 300 feet in circumference, is adorned with bas-reliefs from the Panthenaic friezes of 
 the Parthenon, exquisitely modelled by Henning ; the ribbed roof being filled with 
 embossed glass. 
 
 Southward and eastward of the Rotunda are large Conservatories, a Swiss chalet, 
 and mountain scenery interspersed with real water: these were executed by Mr. 
 Hornor, whose enthusiasm led him to project a tunnel beneath the Regent's-park-
 
 COLUMNS. 283 
 
 road, and to anticipate a grant from the opposite enclosure to be added to the 
 Colosseum grounds. But the ingenious projector failed : the property passed into 
 the hands of trustees ; after which it lost much of its status as a place of public 
 amusement j but on May 11, 1843, it was bought for 23,000 guineas by Mr. David 
 Montague, who altogether retrieved and elevated the artistic character of the 
 establishment. 
 
 The Colosseum, as altered, with the exception of the Panorama, was principally 
 executed in 1845, from the designs of the late Mr. W. Bradwell, formerly chief 
 machinist of Covent Garden Theatre. The eastern entrance, in Albany-street, was 
 then added, with an arched corridor in the style of the Vatican, and leading to the 
 Glyptotheca, the Arabesque Conservatories, and the Gothic Aviary, the exterior 
 promenade, with its model ruins of the Temple of Vesta and Arch of Titus, the Temple 
 of Theseus, and golden pinnacles and eastern domes, a chaos of classic relics of the 
 antique world. A romantic pass leads to the chalet, or Swiss Cottage, originally 
 designed by P. P. Robinson : the roof, walls, and projecting fireplace are fancifully 
 carved; and the bay-window looks upon a mass of rock-scenery, a mountain-torrent 
 and lake, a model picture of the sublime. In another direction lies a large model of 
 the Stalactite Cavern at Adelsberg, in Carniola ; constructed by Bradwell and Telbin. 
 
 At Christmas, 1848, was added a superb theatre, with a picturesque rustic armoury as 
 an ante-room. The spectatory, designed and erected by Bradwell, resembles the vesti- 
 bule of a regal mansion fitted up for the performance of a masque : it is decorated with 
 colossal Sienna columns, and copies of three of Raphael's cartoons in the Vatican (School 
 of Athens, and Constantine and the Pope), by Horner, of Rath bone-place ; the ceilings 
 are gorgeously painted with allegorical groups ; and upon the fronts of the boxes is a 
 Bacchanalian procession, in richly-gilt relief. Upon the stage passed the Cyclorama of 
 Lisbon, depicting in ten scenes the terrific spectacle of the great earthquake of 1755 
 the uplifting sea and o'ertopping city, and all the frightful devastation of flood and fire ; 
 accompanied by characteristic performances upon Bevington's Apollonicon. The scenes 
 are painted by Danson, in the manner of Loutherbourg's Eidophusicon, which not only 
 anticipated, but in part surpassed, our present dioramas. The entire exhibition has 
 long been closed. 
 
 In March, 1855, the Colosseum, with the Cyclorama, were put up to auction by the 
 Messrs. Winstanley. It was then stated that the Colosseum was erected at a cost of 
 23,000?. for Mr. Thomas Hornor, who held a lease of it direct from the Crown, at a 
 ground rent of 2622. 18s. for a period of ninety-nine years, sixty-nine of which were 
 unexpired on the 10th of October, 1854. He subsequently expended above 100,0002. 
 to carry out the objects for which it was intended, by decorating the interior, pur- 
 chasing pictures, &c. In August, 1836, the lease was sold to Messrs. Braham and 
 Yates. Mr. Braham laid out about 50,0002. on the building, which in a few years 
 afterwards became the property of Mr. Turner, who added the Cyclorama, which cost 
 20,0002., to the establishment, with many decorations, at several thousand pounds' 
 expense ; so that the entire edifice has cost above 200,0002. The sum of 20,0002. was 
 bid, but the property was not sold. 
 
 COLUMNS. 
 
 NELSON COLUMN (the), south side of Trafalgar-square, was erected between 
 1839 and 1852, by public subscription and the aid of the Government. It was 
 designed by W. Railton, and is of the exact proportion of a column of the Corinthian 
 temple of Mars Ultor at Rome : Mr. Railton choosing the Corinthian order from its 
 being the most lofty and elegant in its proportions, and having never been used in 
 England for this purpose ; whilst it is in keeping with the surrounding buildings, and 
 tends more than any other species of monument to bring the entire scene into general 
 harmony, without destroying the effect of any portion of it. The foundation rests upon 
 a 6-feet layer of concrete in a compact stratum of clay, about twelve feet below the 
 pavement ; upon which is the frustrum of a brick-work pyramid, 48 feet square at the 
 base, and 13 feet high, upon which the superstructure commences with the graduated 
 stylobate of the pedestal, the first step of which is 33 feet 4 inches wide. Prom this
 
 284 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 point to the foot of the statue, the work is of solid granite, in large blocks admirably 
 dressed ; and in the shaft they are so well connected as to give the fabric almost the 
 cohesion of a monolith. The granite was brought from Foggin Tor, on the coast of 
 Devon ; and was selected for its equable particles and intimate distribution of mica, 
 feldtspar, and quartz. The shaft (lower diameter 10 feet) is fluted throughout, the 
 base being richly ornamented the lower torus with a cable, the upper with oak-leaves. 
 The pedestal is raised upon a flight of steps; and at the angles are massive cippi, or 
 blocks, intended to receive four recumbent African lions. The capital is of bronze, 
 and was cast from old ordnance in the Arsenal foundry at Woolwich, from full-sized 
 models carefully prepared by C. H. Smith. " The foliage is connected to the bell of the 
 cap by three large belts of metal lying in grooves, and rendering it needless to fix pings 
 into the work, with the concomitant risk of damage from the galvanic action of metals." 
 (&. Godwin, jun., F.B.S.) One of the lower tiers of leaves weighs about 900 Ibs. 
 Upon a circular pedestal on the abacus is a colossal statue of Nelson, with a coiled cable 
 on his left; E. H. Baily, R.A., sculptor. The figure is of Cragleith stone, in three 
 massive blocks, presented by the Duke of Buccleuch; the largest block weighing 
 upwards of 30 tons. The statue measures 17 feet from its plinth to the top of the hat ; 
 it was raised on Nov. 3 and 4, 1813; and on Oct. 23 previous, fourteen persona 
 partook of a dinner on the abacus of the Column. 
 
 The scaffolding used in constructing this Column was a novelty of mechanical skill. Instead of the 
 usual forest of small round poles, there were five grand uprights or standards on the east and west sides, 
 in six stages or stories, marked by horizontal beams and curbs, at nearly equal intervals, the base being 
 greatly extended, and the sides strengthened by diagonal and raking braces. By means of a powerful 
 engine moving on a railway, and a travelling platform, blocks of stone from six to ten tons weight, were, 
 at a rate of progression scarcely more'perceptible than the motion of a clock-weight (being only thirty 
 feet in the hour), raised to a great elevation, and set down with less muscular exertion than would be 
 expended on a lamp-post ; one mason thus setting as much work in one day as was done in three days 
 by the old system, even without the aid of six labourers, who are now dispensed with. The timber used 
 in erecting this scaffold was 7700 cubic feet, and its cost was 24/01. for labour in erecting. 
 
 The pedestal has on its four sides the following bronze reliefs : 
 
 North (facing the National Gallery), Battle of the Nile: designed by W. F. Woodington. Nelson, 
 having received a severe wound in the head, was caught by Captain Berry in his arms, as he was 
 falling, and carried into the cockpit ; the surgeon is quitting a wounded sailor that he may instantly 
 attend the Admiral. "No," said Nelson; " I will take my turn with my brave fellows." Some of the 
 parts project 15 inches, and the figures are 8 feet high: the casting weighs 2 tons 15 cwt. 2 qrs.; and 
 the metal is three-eighths of an inch thick. 
 
 South (facing Whitehall), Death of Nelson at Trafalgar : designed by C. E. Carew. Nelson is being 1 
 carried from the quarter-deck to the cockpit by a marine and two seamen. " Well, Hardy," said Nelson 
 to his captain, " they have done for me at last." " I hope not," was the reply. "Yes; they have shot 
 me through the backbone." At the back of the centre group is the surgeon. To the left are three 
 sailors tightening some of the ship's cordage ; another kneels, holding a handspike and leaning on a 
 gun, arrested by the conversation between the dying hero and Captain Hardy, in the front, lying on 
 the deck, are an officer and marines, who have fallen to rise no more. Behind stand two marines and 
 a negro sailor. One of the former has detected the marksman by whose shot Nelson fell, and is point- 
 ing him out to his companion. The latter has raised his musket, and has evidently covered his mark ; 
 whilst the black, who stands just before the two marines, is grasping his firelock. The figures are of 
 life-size; the casting weighs about five tons. Beneath are Nelson's memorable words, " England ex- 
 pects every man will do his duty." 
 
 East (facing the Strand), Bombardment of Copenhagen : designed by the late Mr. Ternouth. Nelson 
 is sealing, on the end of a gun, his despatch, to send by the flag of truce ; a group of officers surround 
 him, and a sailor holds a caudle and lantern : in the foreground are wounded groups ; and in the 
 distance are a church and city (Copenhagen) in flames. 
 
 West (facing Pall Mall), Battle of St. Vincent : commenced by Watson and finished by Woodington. 
 Nelson, on board the San Josef, is receiving from the Spanish admirals their swords, whicli an old 
 Agamemnon man is putting under his arm ; in the foreground is a dying sailor clasping a broken flag-staff. 
 
 A monument to Nelson was first proposed in 1805 (the year of his death), when the 
 Committee of the Patriotic Fund raised 1330Z. Reduced 3 per Cents, which, with the ' 
 accumulated dividends, amounted in June, 1838, to 5545Z. 19*. Meanwhile, in 1816, 
 the monument was proposed in Parliament, as " a duty which the nation ought, per- 
 haps, to have discharged not less than thirty years ago." The subject, however, rested 
 until 1838, when a subscription was raised, Trafalgar-square chosen as the site, .and a 
 column recommended by the Duke of Wellington. In January, 1839, 118 drawings 
 and 41 models were submitted, and the first prize, 2501., awarded to Mr. Railton 
 for his column; in May following, a second series of designs (167) was exhibited, 
 but the Committee adhered to their former choice. In 1844, the subscriptions,* 
 20,483Z. 11*. 2d., had been expended ; and the Government undertook the cornple- 
 
 * To which Nicholas, Emperor of Russia, contributed BOOl.
 
 COLUMNS. 
 
 285 
 
 tion of the monument, estimated at 12,OOOZ. additional. The column itself cost 
 23.000Z. building ; the statue, capital, and reliefs, 50001. ; 20001. architect's commis- 
 sion ; four lions have been estimated at 30001. Trafalgar-square was much objected 
 to as the site : in the Parliamentary examination, eight architects and sculptors were 
 in favour of it, and four architects were against it. Chantrey considered Trafalgar- 
 square to be "the most favourable that could be found or imagined for any national 
 work of art ; its aspect is nearly south, and sufficiently open to give the object placed 
 on that identical spot all the advantage of light and shade that can be desired ; to this 
 may be added the advantage of a happy combination of unobtrusive buildings around : 
 but to conceive a national monument worthy of this magnificent site is no easy task." 
 Chantrey objected to a column as a monument, unless treated as a biographical volume, 
 with the acts of the hero sculptured on the shaft, as on the columns of Trajan and 
 Antoninus. Annexed are the comparative dimensions of the principal monumental 
 columns : 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 Height to 
 
 
 Date. 
 
 Climate. 
 
 Site. 
 
 Order. 
 
 the top of 
 
 Diameter. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Capital. 
 
 
 A.D. 
 
 
 
 
 Feet. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 118 
 
 Trajan . . 
 
 Rome . 
 
 Doric . 
 
 115 
 
 12 
 
 162 
 
 Antoninus . 
 
 Rome . 
 
 Doric . 
 
 123 
 
 13 
 
 1671 
 
 Monument . 
 
 London 
 
 Doric . 
 
 172 
 
 15 
 
 1806 
 
 Napoleon 
 
 Paris . 
 
 Doric . 
 
 115 
 
 12 
 
 1832 
 
 Duke of York 
 
 London 
 
 Tuscan 
 
 111 
 
 11 
 
 1839 
 
 Xelson . . 
 
 London 
 
 Corinthian 
 
 145-6 
 
 lO'lf 11-71 
 
 Nelson Column, 145 feet 6 inches ; statue and plinth, 17 feet ; = 162 feet 6 inches. 
 
 YOEK CoLrMN, Carlton-gardens, built 1830-33, in memory of the Duke of York 
 (d. 1827), Commander-in -Chief of the army, and forty -six years a soldier; whose 
 statue is placed on the summit. The building fund, about 25,0002., was raised 
 by subscription, to which each individual of the service contributed one day's pay. 
 The Column (Tuscan), designed by B. Wyatt, is of fine Aberdeenshire granite, the 
 lower pedestal grey, and the shaft of red Peterhead ; the surface fine-axed, or not 
 polished. The abacus of the capital is enclosed with iron railing, and in its centre is 
 the pedestal for the statue. Within the pedestal and shaft is a spiral staircase of 168 
 steps, which, with the newel, or central pillar, and outer casing, are cut from the solid 
 block. The masonry throughout, by Nowell, is remarkably good. The statue, of 
 bronze, by Sir Richard Westmacott, R.A., represents the Duke in the robes of the 
 Order of the Garter. The weight is 7 tons 800 Ibs., or 16,480 Ibs. ; it was raised 
 April 8, 1834, between the column and the scaffolding, seven hours labour, at a cost 
 of 400/. The column may be ascended from 12 to 4, from May to Sept. 24, 6d. each 
 person : the view from the gallery of the Surrey hills and western London is fine ; the 
 latter showed the magnificence of Regent-street, and the skill of the architect, Nash, 
 in the junction of the lines by the Quadrant. On May 14, 1850, Henri Joseph 
 Stephan, a French musician, committed suicide by throwing himself from the gallery, 
 which has since been entirely enclosed with iron caging. The height of the column is 
 123 feet 6 inches; of the statue, 13 feet 6 inches = 137 feet; or viewed from the 
 bottom of the steps, at the level of St. James's Park, 156 feet : upper diameter of 
 shaft, 10 feet If inches ; lower diameter, 11 feet 7^ inches. The foundation, laid iu 
 * concrete, is pyramidal, 53 feet square at the base. 
 
 The height of the balcony of the York Column is very nearly that of the under side of the great 
 tube of the Britannia Bridge, over the Menai Straits, above high water. The entire length of the 
 bridge is 1832 feet 8 inches ; considerably more than that of Waterloo-place, from the York Column to 
 the foot of the Quadrant. Proceeding! of the Society ofArtt, 1851. 
 
 Dr. Waagen condemns this monument as a bad imitation of Trajan's Column, very mean and poor 
 in appearance, with a naked shaft, and without an entasis : whereas the bas-reliefs on the shall of 
 Trajan's Pillar give it, at least, the impression of a lavish profusion of art. Besides, the statue on the 
 York Column, though as colossal as the size of the base will allow, appears little and puppet-like com- 
 pared with the column ; and the features and expression of the countenance seem wholly lost to the 
 spectator. 
 
 See also MONUMENT, THE.
 
 286 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 COMMON COUNCIL. 
 
 THE constitution of the Corporation of London presents a remote and illusory re- 
 semblance to the coustitution of the State. There are the Lord Mayor, the Court 
 of Aldermen, and the Court of Common Council. Strictly speaking, the Court of 
 Common Council includes the Chief Magistrate and the Aldermen; but in ordinary 
 language it is understood to mean the Commons of the City, being somewhat like the 
 House of Commons : the Court of Aldermen bearing some analogy to the House of 
 Lords : and the Lord Mayor to the Sovereign. Lord Brougham, 1843. 
 
 The two corporate assemblies can be traced back to a very distant period, and there 
 are records of disputes between the two Courts six centuries ago. In the reigns of 
 Edward I. and II., a body analogous to the Common Council was formed by the repre- 
 sentatives from the different Wards of the City. But the Common Council appears 
 to have been first constituted in its present form only in the reign of Eichard II., by a 
 civic ordinance ; whilst in an Act of Parliament of the previous reign (28 Edw. III. 
 c. 10), the Mayor, Sheriffs, and Aldermen are invested with the redress and correction 
 of errors, &c., in the City of London, for default of good government. 
 
 Altogether there are 26 Wards, but the custom of holding an election in each was not originally the 
 mode of representation, though it is said to have been customary for nearly five centuries. Before that 
 period the election of the Common Council rested with the trades, or guilds, and the whole body of 
 liverymen used to assemble in Guildhall yearly to send delegates there. It is said there are ancient 
 records in the Corporation Library which show that those meetings were commonly so turbulent, that 
 in 1386, early in the reign of Eichard II., the plan of voting by wards was tried as an experiment, and 
 has ever since obtained without interruption. Still the trades, to some extent, continued to be represented 
 as such in the Court of Common Council, as the names of many of the Wards yet prove, as in the cases of 
 Candlewick, Cprdwainer and Vintry Wards, it being a usage for divers trades and crafts to be carried on 
 in fixed localities ; but now, as for many ages, it is a settled rule for the Lord Mayor to issue a precept 
 directing the election of Councilmen in the various Wards on St. Thomas's Day, December 21, and the 
 ceremony of election takes place before the Alderman of each Ward, who invariably wears his robes of office 
 on the occasion ; and, if he has been chief magistrate, his gold chain and badge. Of all the several 26 
 members of the Court of Aldermen, the only one without a constituency, or with but a small one, if any 
 at all, sits for the Ward of Bridge, so called after London-bridge, of which it is chiefly, if not solely, 
 composed. In the time of old London-bridge, when there were many inhabited houses on that structure, 
 the Alderman of the Ward represented an actual community of citizens, though small in comparison ; 
 now it is not so, though the custom of its sending a delegate to the Court of Aldermen is maintained. 
 
 The City laws against foreigners appear to have been formerly very stringent. An order of Common 
 Council, 1605, enjoins a penalty of 51. per day on any foreigner or stranger, not free, keeping a retail 
 shop in the City or liberty ; and if any freeman employs a foreigner to work for him in the City or 
 liberty, he forfeits 51. per day. By stat. 21 Hen. VIII., a stranger, artificer in London, &c., shall not 
 keep above two stranger servants, but he may have as many English servants and apprentices as he can 
 get. It is an ancient custom of London, that if one stranger or foreigner buys any thing of another 
 stranger, it shall be forfeited to the mayor and commonalty of the City. Vide Jacob's City Libertiet, 1732. 
 
 The number of members of the Common Council have been, from time to time, altered as follows : 
 1273. 1st Edward I., 40 men elected from all the Wards the original number. 1317. 2nd Edward II., the 
 Commonalty elected from the following Wards : Vintry, Bread-street, Cripplegate, Farringdon, Alders- 
 gate, Queenhithe, and Coleman-street=72men. 1322. 16th Edward II., 2 men from each Ward=48. 
 1347. 20th Edward III., 8, 6, or 4 men elected, according to the size of the Ward : 133. 1351. 25th 
 Edward III., elected from the 13 Misteries=54. 1376. 50th Edward III., from 47 Misteries=156. 
 1383. 7th Eichard II., 4 persons from each Ward =96. 1533. 25th Henry VIII., Cornhill Ward to 
 return 6 instead of 4. 1549. Edward VI., total, 187 ; but there is nothing to show how the number 
 increased, except the 2 for Cornhill. 1639. 15th Charles I., 5 added to Farringdou Without. 1641. 
 17th Charles I., 1 added to Portsoken. 1645. 21st Charles I., 4 added to Coleman-street Ward. 1654. 
 6th Charles II., Cheap Ward to choose 12 members. 1656. 8th Charles II., 4 added to Tower Ward= 
 234. 1736. 10th George II., 2 added to Farringdon Within ; total, 236. 1826. 7th George IV., 4 added 
 to Cripplegate Without ; total, 240. 1840. 8th May. The number fixed at 206, the present number. 
 
 From 1660 to 1676, several attempts were made by the Aldermen to limit the 
 choice of the Wardmote to citizens of the higher class ; but no permanent regulation 
 was the result. In 1831, a Committee reported that persons convicted of defrauding 
 in weights or measures, or having compounded with their creditors, or of having been 
 bankrupt, without paying 20*. in the pound, were ineligible as Common Councilmen. 
 
 Each Common Councilman wears a gown of Mazarine-blue silk, trimmed with 
 badger's fur a costume, probably, of the reign of Edward VI. They formerly wore 
 black gowns ; the change is thus alluded to in the chorus to a political song of 1766 : 
 "Oh, London is the town of towns ! Oh, how improved a city ! 
 Since chang'd her Common Council's gowns from black to blue so pretty !" 
 
 They, however, discontinued wearing their gowns in Court in 1775 ; perhaps in 
 consequence of a Common Councilman being called " a Mazarine." Nor has he escaped 
 the severer whipping of the satirist :
 
 CONDUITS. 287 
 
 " The cit a Common-Councilman by place, 
 Ten thousand mighty nothings in his lace. 
 By situation, as by nature, great, 
 With wise precision parcels out the state ; 
 Proves and disproves, affirms and then denies, 
 Objects himself, and to himself replies ; 
 Wielding aloft the politician rod, 
 Makes Pitt by turns a devil and a god ; 
 Maintains, ev'n to the very teeth of pow'r, 
 The same thing right and wrong in half-an-hour. 
 Now all is well, now he suspects a plot, 
 And plainly proves whatever is is not : 
 Fearlully wise, he shakes his empty head, 
 And deals out empires as he deals out thread : 
 His useless scales are in a corner flung, 
 And Europe's balance hangs upon his tongue." Churchill. 
 
 The Court held their sittings in a Chamber on the north side of the Guildhall, where 
 the Lord Mayor presides in a chair of state ; and visitors are admitted below the bar, 
 at which petitions, &c., are presented in due legislative form. The entire Court were 
 entertained by George I. at a banquet at St. James's Palace in 1727. 
 
 CONDUITS. 
 
 OPRING water was formerly conveyed to public reservoirs in the City by leaden pipes 
 *J from various sources in the suburbs viz., from Tyburn in 1236, from Highbury 
 in 1438, from Hackney in 1535, from Hampstead in 1543, and from Hoxton in 1546. 
 For these useful works the citizens were indebted to the munificence of mayors, sheriffs, 
 and other individuals. Stow devotes a section of his Survey to " ancient and present 
 rivers, brooks, bowers, pools, wells, and conduits of fresh water, serving the City :" he 
 also gives a long list of benefactors to the Conduits, the principal of which were in 
 Aldgate, Leadenhall, Cornhill, West Cheape, Aldermanbury, Dowgate, London Wall, 
 Cripplegate, Paul's-gate, Old Fish-street, Oldbourne, &c. In a large Map and Draw- 
 ing* of London and Westminster, early in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, the several 
 Conduits occupy central positions in the roadways. 
 
 BAYSWATEE was noted for its Conduit-Heads ; and the association is preserved in 
 Conduit-street, Tyburnia, the town built between 1839 and 1849, in the rear of Hyde 
 Park Gardens. 
 
 CANONBUBY. The Priory of St. Bartholomew was supplied from Canonbury ; for a 
 water-course is specified in the grant made to Sir Richard Rich, Knight, at the Sup- 
 pression, as " the water from the Conduit-head of St. Bartholomew, within the manor 
 of Canonbury, as enjoyed by Prior Bolton and his predecessors." 
 
 CHEAPSIDE. The Great Conduit stood at the east end of Cheapside, at its junction 
 with the Poultry ; and, says Stow, " was the first sweete water that was conveyed by 
 pipes of lead under ground to this place in the citie from Paddington." Another Great 
 Conduit stood in West Cheape, at the west end of Cheapside, facing Foster-lane and 
 Old 'Change. 
 
 CONDUIT-MEAD. " New Bond-street was, in 1760, an open field, called Conduit- 
 mead, from one of the conduits which supplied this part of the town with water ; and 
 Conduit-street received its name for the same reason." (Pennant). Carew Mildmay, 
 who died between 1780 and 1785, told Pennant that he remembered killing a wood- 
 cock on the site of Conduit-street, when it was open country. 
 
 CORNIIIIL. The Conduit, " castellated in the middest" of Cornhill, opposite the 
 south entrance to the present Royal Exchange, was called the Tun, from its being like 
 a tun standing on one end. It was a prison-house until 1401, when " it was made a 
 cistern for sweet water, conveyed by pipes of lead from Tiborne, was from thenceforth 
 called the Conduit upon Cornhill." (Stoiv.) A well, which adjoined, was then planked 
 over, and a timber cage, pillory, and stocks, set upon it ; these were removed in 1546, 
 the well revived, and made a pump ; since renewed, with the following inscription : 
 " On this spot a well was first made, and a House of Correction built by Henry Wallis, 
 Mayor of London in 1285. The well was discovered, much enlarged, and this pump 
 
 * Dimensions, 6 feet 3 inches by 2 feet 6 inches, with References and Historical Notes, Published 
 by Taperell and Innes, 2, Winchester-building, Old Broad-street, 1850.
 
 288 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 erected in 1799, by the contributions of the Bank of England, East India Company, and 
 the neighbouring Fire Offices, together with the Bankers and Traders of the ward of 
 Cornhill." Bound the head of the pump are the devices of the Fire Offices. " The 
 Standard in Cornhill" was a sort of Conduit, set up in 1582, by Peter Morris, who, by 
 an " artificial forcer," conveyed Thames water in pipes of lead over the steeple of St. 
 Magnus' Church, and from thence to the north-west corner of London Wall, the highest 
 ground of all the City, where the waste of the main-pipe rising into the Standard at 
 every tide, ran by four mouths, and thus served the inhabitants, and cleansed the streets 
 towards Bishopsgate, Aldgate, London Bridge, and Stocks Market. This Conduit 
 appears only to have run from 1598 to 1603 : from its site have since been measured 
 distances, and hence " the Standard in Cornhill" on our old milestones. 
 
 DALSTON and ISLINGTON had their Conduit-heads ; and the Report of a View of them, 
 dated 1692, describes the entire course of this supply until it reaches the Conduit at 
 Aldgate. This Report mentions " the White Conduit," fed by sundry springs, in a 
 field at Islington, and resorted to by the Carthusian friars of the monastery upon the 
 site of which Sutton founded the Charterhouse, supplied also from the above conduit. 
 It likewise gave name to White Conduit House. (See AMUSEMENTS, Tea-gardens, 
 p. 17.) The small stone house built over the well or conduit in 1641 was taken down 
 in 1832. It was, however, survived by the Old Conduit at Dalston, the remains of 
 which, in 1849, served as a tool -house in the nursery -ground of Mr. Smith. The 
 Charter-house Conduit was rebuilt by the executors of Thomas Sutton ; it bore the 
 date 1641, and upon it were sculptured the arms and initials of Sutton ; no vestige 
 of it now remains. 
 
 FLEET- STEEET. Another famous Conduit stood at the south end of Shoe-lane, Fleet- 
 street, surmounted with automaton figures, chimes, &c. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S. A print by Godfrey, after a drawing by Hollar (probably temp. 
 Charles I.), shows a stone conduit in St. James's- square, on or near the spot now occu- 
 pied by Bacon's equestrian bronze statue of William III. : the whole of Pall Mall was 
 then clear of houses, from the village of Charing to St. James's Palace. The above 
 conduit is mentioned by Francis Bacon (Works, vol. ii.) in connexion with one of his 
 experiments. In 1720, a basin of water, with a fountain and pleasure-boat, had taken 
 the place of the conduit ; into this basin were thrown the keys of Newgate Prison 
 during the riots of 1780. 
 
 KENSINGTON. On the Palace-green was formerly a four- gabled Conduit, built 
 temp. Henry VIII. ; and a Water Tower, erected by Sir John Vanbrugh, temp. Queen 
 Anne ; both were very fine specimens of brickwork, and communicating by pipes with the 
 wells on the green, supplying the Palace with water, which was raised in the tower by 
 a horse and wheel. By forming the great sewer for Palace Gardens adjoining, all the 
 wells on the green, except one, were unexpectedly drained : the Conduit and tower 
 were taken down, and the Palace has since been supplied from Chelsea Water-works. 
 
 LAMB'S CONDUIT was founded by William Lamb, sometime a Gentleman of the 
 Chapel to Henry VIII., citizen and clothworker: "neere unto Holborn," says Stow, 
 " he founded a faire conduit and a standard, with a cocke at Holborn-bridge, to con- 
 veye thence the waste," in 1577. 
 
 The conduit is described by Hatton, in 1718, as "near the fields (now Lamb's Conduit-street], 
 affording plenty of water, clear as crystal, which is chiefly used for drinking. It belongs to St. Sepul- 
 chre's parish, the fountain-head being under a stone, marked S. S. P., in the vacant ground a little 
 south of Ormond-street, whence the water conies in a drain to this conduit; and it runs thence in lead 
 pipes (2000 yards long) to the conduit on Snow-hill, which has the figure of a Lamb upon it, denoting 
 that its water comes from Lamb's Conduit. 
 
 The sign of the Lamb public-house, at the north-east end of Lamb's Conduit-street, is 
 the effigy of a lamb cut in stone, believed to be one of the figures which stood upon 
 Lamb's Conduit, as a rebus on his name. When the Foundling Hospital was erected, 
 we learn from Hatton that the Conduit was taken down, and the water conveyed to 
 the east side of Red Lion-street, at the end (now Lamb's Conduit-street) ; an inscrip- 
 tion stating the waters to be preserved " by building an arch over the same ;" and in 
 1851, Mr. J. Wykeham Archer discovered, beneath a trap-door in the pavement of the 
 Lamb-yard, a short flight of steps, a brick vault, and the covered well ; as well as on
 
 CONVENTS. 289 
 
 the north wall of the next yard southward, this inscription cut in wood, over a recess 
 now bricked up : " Lamb's Conduit, the property of the City of London. This pump 
 is erected for the benefit of the publick." The water is perfectly clear, and is slightly 
 astringent ; and the Mansion House is said still to derive a supply from this source. 
 In the garden of the house, No. 30, East-street, Lamb's Conduit-street, are a pump and 
 spring ; and on the opposite wall a stone stating this to be " the head of the spring 
 Lamb's Conduit Water." 
 
 Tyburn furnished nine Conduits, and with Bayswater, was viewed periodically by 
 the Lord Mayor on horseback, accompanied by ladies in wagons. 
 
 Strype notes that on Sept. 18, 1562, "the Lord Mayor, Aldermen, and many worshipful persons, rode 
 to the Conduit-heads to see them, according to the old custom ; and then they went and hunted a hare 
 before dinner, and killed her ; and thence went to dinner at the Banqueting House at the head of the 
 Conduit, where a great number were handsomely entertained by their Chamberlain. After dinner they 
 went to hunt the fox. There was a great cry for a mile, and at length the hounds killed him at the end 
 of St. Giles's, with great hollowing and blowing of horns at his death ; and thence the Lord Mayor, with 
 all his company, rode through London to his place in Lombard-street." The Banqueting House was at 
 the end of the street now Stratford-place, Oxford-road; and when the mansion was taken down in 1737, 
 the cisterns beneath were arched over. 
 
 The establishment of the Waterworks at London Bridge, in 1512, and the subse- 
 quent introduction of the New River in 1618, having superseded the use of the Tyburn 
 water, the Corporation let the water of these Conduits on a lease for forty-three years, 
 for the sum of 700Z. per annum. 
 
 Many of the City Conduits were destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666 ; and others 
 were removed in 1728, it is stated, to compel the public to have the New River water 
 laid on to their houses. Upon great festal occasions, the Conduits flowed with wine 
 instead of water : at the procession of Anne Boleyn, June 1, 1533, the Great Cheap 
 Conduit ran with white and claret wine all the afternoon. Probably the last of these 
 prodigal events was in 1727, on the anniversary of the Coronation of George 1., when 
 Lamb's Conduit ran with wine. 
 
 Westminster Abbey has been, from a very distant period, supplied with spring- water 
 from a Conduit-head at Bayswater, communicating with a Gothic conduit, erected by 
 the Dean and Chapter (bearing their arms), at the lower end of the Serpentine in 
 Hyde Park. West of the Lodge at Hyde Park -corner, and facing the Knightsbridge- 
 road, is a square building, inclosing a tank filled from the above Conduit-head, for the 
 supply of Buckingham and St. James's Palaces ; the water is remarkably fine, and the 
 building bears on a tablet " IV. G. R., 1820," the date of its repair. The leaden 
 pipes pass through the Green Park, and the end of the ornamental water in St. James's 
 Park, at a spot denoted by a stone, and through Queen-square to the Abbey. 
 
 Westminster Palace had its Conduit. In the Close Rolls (Hen. III. 1244) the king 
 commands a payment to be made out of his treasury to Edward of Westminster, on 
 account of " our conduit ;" and by a singular precept of the same year is a grant to 
 Edward, that " from the aqueduct which the king had constructed to the Great Hall 
 at Westminster, he might have a pipe to his own court at Westminster, of the size of 
 a goose-quill." In a memorandum of works executed (Edw. II. 1307-1310), is the 
 following entry : 
 
 " The Conduit of water coming into the palace, and into the King's Mews, for the falcons, which in 
 various places was obstructed and injured, and the underground pipes stolen, was completely repaired, 
 and the water returned to its proper courses and issues, both at the palace and at the mews." 
 
 " A beautiful fountain, which fell in large cascades, and on jubilee days was made to pour forth 
 streams of choice wine, stood rather towards the west, and on the north side of the court. Permission 
 to make use of the surplus water which flowed from this conduit was granted, on Feb. 3 (25 Hen. VI.), 
 to the parish. Under the date 1524, the churchwardens for the time being note, ' Memtn. the King's 
 charter for the Condett at the Pales'-gate remayneth in the custody of the churchwardens." The fountain 
 was removed in the reign of King Charles II." Walcott's Westminster. Lastly, in the very curious 
 Harleian MS., numbered 433 (Rich. 111. 1484), we find mentioned, " the lytcll water conduct." 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 P ELIGIOUS Houses and Hospitals, for ages before the Reformation, occupied nearly 
 JLu two-thirds of the entire area of London. Independently of St. Paul's Cathedral 
 and Westminster Abbey, the following Friaries and Abbeys existed almost immediately 
 prior to the Reformation : 
 
 Friaries : Black Friars, between Lndgate and the Thames ; Grey FriarS, near old Newgate, now 
 Christ's Hospital ; Augustine Friars, now Austin Friars, near Broad-street : White Friars, near Salis- 
 
 U
 
 290 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 bury-square ; Crouched or Crossed Friars, St. Olave's, Hart-street, near Tower-hill : Carthusian Friars, 
 now the Charter House ; Cistercian Friars, or New Abbey, East Smithfield ; Brethren de Sacco, or 
 Sort Homines, Old Jewry. 
 
 Priories : St. John's of Jerusalem, Clerkenwell ; Holy Trinity, or Christ Church, on the site of 
 Duke's-place, and near Aldgate ; St. Bartholomew the Great, near Smithfield ; St. Mary Overie's, South- 
 wark; St. Saviour's, Bermondsey. 
 
 Gunneries : 'Benedictines, or Black Nuns, Clerkenwell ; St. Helen's, Bishopsgate-street ; St. Clare's, 
 Minories ; Holy-well, between Holy well-lane and Norton-folgate. 
 
 Colleges, $c. : St. Martin' s-le-Grand ; St. Thomas of Acres, Westcheap ; Whittington's College and 
 Hospital, Vintry Ward; St. Michael's College and Chapel, Crooked- lane; Jesus Commons, Dowgate. 
 
 Hoipitals (having resident Brotherhoods) : St. Giles's in the Fields, near St. Giles's Church ; St. 
 James's, now St. James's Palace : Our Lady of Eounceval, near Charing-cross : St. Mary, Savoy, Strand ; 
 Elsing Spital, now Sion College; Corpus Christi, in St. Lawrence Pountney; St. Passey, near Bevis 
 Marks; St. Mary Axe; Trinity, without Aldgate; St. Thomas, Mercers' Chapel; St. Bartholomew the 
 Less, near Smithfield: St. Giles's, and Corpus Christi, without Cripplegate; St. Mary of Bethlehem, on 
 the eastern side of Moorfields ; St. Mary Spital, without Bishopsgate ; St. Thomas, Southwark ; Lok 
 Spital, or Lazar, Kent-street, Southwark; St. Katherine's, below the Tower. 
 
 Fraternities : St. Nicholas, Bishopsgate-street ; St. Fabian and St. Sebastian, or the Holy Trinity, 
 Aldersgate-street ; St. Giles, Whitecross-street; the Holy Trinity, Leadenhall; St. Ursula-le-Strand ; 
 Hermitage, Nightingale-lane, East Smithfield; Corpus Christi, St. Mary Spital; the same at Mary Beth- 
 lehem, and St. Mary Poultry. 
 
 The majority of these establishments disappeared at the Reformation ; but a glance 
 at the Sutherland View of London in 1543, and at Tapperell and Jnnes's Map (early 
 in the reign of Elizabeth), shows us many of these important buildings entire, and 
 others lying distant in the fields. Almost the only remains now traceable are around 
 the Abbey Church at Westminster, where some of the monastic offices are tenanted as 
 the School ; of Grey Friars, the cloisters exist ; of the Augustine Friars, the church ; 
 of the Carthusian Friars, the wooden gate and a few other relics ; of St. John of 
 Jerusalem, the gateway ; of St. Bartholomew the Great, the church cloister and crypt ; 
 of St. Mary Overie's, the church-choir and lady-chapel ; and at Bermondsey, the great 
 gate-house remained nearly entire till 1807 ; of St. Helen's, Bishopsgate, the church 
 remains ; of St. Bartholomew's the Less, the church-tower ; and St. Katherine's 
 " by the Tower " disappeared in 1827. Such are the principal Monastic Remains in 
 the metropolis. 
 
 Since the relaxation of the penal laws, Roman Catholic Convents have been erected 
 in London and the suburbs. Of these, one of the earliest was the Convent for the 
 Order of the Sisters of Mercy, founded by subscription, at Dockhead, Bermondsey, 
 in 1838, and opened for the Sisterhood December 12, 1839 ; when Sister Mary, the 
 Lady Barbara Eyre, sister to Francis the eighth Earl of Newburgh, took the vows, 
 with five other ladies of fortune, and liberal benefactresses to the chapel and convent. 
 In addition to the services of their religion, the Sisters devote themselves to the 
 education of poor girls, the visitation and comfort of the sick and afflicted, and the 
 protection of distressed reputable females. 
 
 The reception of a postulant into the Sisterhood, or the "taking of the veil," is an impressive cere- 
 mony performed in the chapel of the convent, or in the church adjoining; when the whole sisterhood 
 walk in procession, dressed in the habit of their order, each bearing a lighted taper, and followed by the 
 postulants, in white dresses, and head-wreaths of white flowers and evergreens. The choir then chant 
 " Gloriosa virginum ;" the priest invokes the prayers of the Virgin in behalf of the postulants, to each 
 of whom he presents a lighted taper, " as a corporal emblem of inward light." The superioress and her 
 assistant then conduct the postulants to the celebrant, who inquires if they enter the order by their 
 own free will, andif it be "their firm intention to persevere in religion to the end of their lives." Theseques- 
 tions being answered satisfactorily, the postulants withdraw with the superioress, put off their secular dress, 
 and return wearing the sombre habit of the Order. The superioress then girds them with the cincture; 
 and the celebrant holds a white veil over the head of each, requesting her to accept it as " the emblem 
 of purity." They are subsequently habited with " the cloak ot the Church;" each of the novices sings : 
 " My heart hath uttered a good word; I speak my words to the King,"&c.; each novice embraces the 
 superioress and each member of the sisterhood, and they retire as they entered, hi procession. 
 
 CORNHILL, 
 
 A PRINCIPAL street of the City, extending from the western end of Leadenhall- 
 street, crossing westward to the Mansion House. It was named " of a corn- 
 market time out of mind there holden." (Stow.) Here was the " Tun" prison, built 
 in 1283, upon the spot now occupied by a pump ; also a castellated conduit, and its 
 water " Standard" (1528) near the junction of the street with Leadenhall-street. 
 Cornhill has been the site of the Merchants' Exchange for nearly three centuries. On 
 the west side, adjoining the Bank of England, was St. Christopher-le-Stocks Church, 
 with a lofty pinnacled tower, which escaped the Great Fire of 1666 : the church was
 
 COENHILL. 291 
 
 rebuilt by Wren, but taken down in 1781, and its site included within the Bank. 
 About the same time were erected Bank-buildings, designed by Sir Robert Taylor, wedge- 
 like in plan, in place of a block of houses built after the Great Fire ; the former were 
 removed in 1844 : the end house extended to the site of the equestrian statue of the Duke 
 of Wellington. In excavating for the new Royal Exchange, in 1841, was discovered a 
 gravel-pit, supposed by Mr. Tite, the architect, to have been sunk during the earliest 
 .Roman occupation of London ; and then to have been a pond, gradually filled with rubbish. 
 In it were found Roman work, stuccoed and painted ; fragments of elegant Samian ware ; 
 an amphora, and terra-cotta lamps, 17 feet below the surface : also pine- wood table-books 
 and metal styles, sandals and soldiers' shoes, a Roman strigil, coins of Vespasian and 
 Domitian, &c. ; and almost the very foot-marks of the Roman soldier. The locality is 
 now the most embellished area of the City, and the nucleus of new streets and sump- 
 tuous architecture. 
 
 Cornhill was formerly noted for its shops of " much stolen gear," mentioned by 
 Lydgate early in the fifteenth century, as well as for its taverns, where was " wine one 
 pint for a pennie, and bread to drink it was given free in every tavern." Here was the 
 famous Pope's-Head Tavern, whence Pope's- Head-alley. 
 
 Finch-lane, properly Fiuke-lane, is so called of the Finke family, the elder of whom 
 new-built the parish church of St. Bennet (Finke). In Finch-lane, in the year 1765, 
 James Watt obtained work with John Morgan, an instrument-maker. Here Watt 
 became proficient in making quadrants, parallel rulers, compasses, theodolites, &c., and 
 contrived to live upon eight shillings a week, exclusive of his lodging. Sir -chin-lane, 
 properly Birchover-lane, from its builder, was anciently tenanted by wealthy drapers. 
 Anderson states that, in the year 1372, in the reign of Edward III., at least twenty 
 houses in Birchin-lane, in the very heart of the City, came under the denomination of 
 cottages, and were so conveyed to St. Thomas's Hospital, in Southwark. The shops 
 also, at this time, appear to have been detached and separate tenements, or, at least, 
 unconnected with houses, as they are drawn to appear in Aggas's Map of London, 
 where you may know the shops from the dwelling-houses by the signs attached. In 
 Birchin-lane lived Mnjor Graunt, said to have written The Observations on the Sills of 
 Mortality, 1661-2. The houses in the lane were in our time small : twenty years ago 
 it contained 23 houses, now it has but 16 : what it has lost in number is made up 
 in altitude. The lease for 80 years, from 1862, of the premises of the London and 
 Middlesex Bank, "No. 21, Finch-lane, with a frontage of 18ft. 6in., was sold by auction, 
 in 1864, and realized 10,100., subject to a rental of 500Z per annum. 
 
 On the east side of Cornhill is Change-alley, a maze of thoroughfares. " With some- 
 thing like four or five entrances, two from Lombard-street, two from Cornhill, and one 
 rom Birchin-lane, there is great danger of losing your way either to the right or the 
 left : you may- possibly find that, instead of going as you intended through the Alley, 
 and reaching Cornhill, you have in reality only taken another turning which leads you 
 into Lombard-street, whence you started." (The City, p. 169.) In Change-alley 
 was Garraway's coffee-house, described at page 265. 
 
 No. 15, Cornhill, Birch's, the cook and confectioner's, is probably the oldest shop of its class in the 
 metropolis. This business was established in the reign of King George I., by a Mr. Horton, who was 
 succeeded by Mr. Lucas Birch, who, in his turn, was succeeded by his son, Mr. Samuel Birch, born hi 
 1757; he was many years a member of the Common Council, and Alderman of the Ward of Candlewick. 
 He was also Colonel of the City Militia, and served as Lord Mayor in 1815, the year of the battle of 
 Waterloo. In his Mayoralty, he laid the first stone of the London Institution; and when Chantrey's 
 marble statue of George III. was inaugurated in the Council Chamber, Guildhall, the inscription was 
 written by Lord Mayor Birch. He possessed considerable literary taste, and wrote poems and musical 
 dramas, of which The Adopted Child remained a stock piece to our time. The Alderman used annually 
 to send, as a present, a Twelfth-cake to the Mansion House. The upper portion of the house in Cornhill 
 has been rebuilt, but the ground-floor remains intact, a curious specimen of the decorated shop-front of 
 the last century; and here are preserved two door-plates, inscribed, "Birch, Successor to Mr. Horton," 
 which are 140 years old. Alderman Birch died in 1840, having been succeeded in the business in Corn- 
 hill, in 1836, by the present proprietors, Ring and Brymer. Dr. Kitohiner extols the soups of Birch, and 
 his skill has long been famed in civic banquets. Chambers's Book of Day i, vol. ii. p. 164. 
 
 At a corner house, between Cornhill and Lombard-street, Thomas Guy, the wealthy 
 stationer, commenced business. (See HOSPITALS.) This " lucky corner " was subse- 
 quently Bidding's Lottery-office. There were several other lottery-offices in Cornhill, 
 including that of George Carroll, knighted as Sheriff in 1837; Lord Mayor in 1846. 
 
 Don Thomas Isturitz was one day walking near the Royal Exchange during the drawing of the 
 lottery in 1815, and feeling an inclination to sport twenty pounds, went into the office of Martin & Co, 
 
 V 2
 
 292 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Cornhill, where, referring to his pocket-book, he counted the number of days that had elapsed from that 
 of his providential escape from Madrid (and the tender mercies prepared for him by the beloved Fer- 
 nando), he found them amount to 261, and then demanded to buy that ticket ; but it was nearly half an 
 hour before it could be obtained, and only after a strict search amongst the lottery-offices in the city. At 
 length, a half ticket of No. 261 was procured at two o'clock ; and at five it was drawn a prize of forty 
 thousand pounds, the only one ever exhibited to that amount in England. The lucky Don lay down that 
 night twenty thousand pounds richer than he had risen. 
 
 Cornhill has heen the scene of two calamitous fires one, March 25, 1748, com- 
 menced at a peruke-maker's, in Exchange-alley, and burnt, within twelve hours, from 
 90 to 100 houses (200.000/. loss), including the London Assurance Office, the Fleece 
 and Three Tuns Taverns, and Tom's and the Rainbow Coffee-houses, in Cornhill ; the 
 Swan Tavern, with Garraway's, Jonathan's, and the Jerusalem Coffee-houses, in Ex- 
 change-alley ; besides the George and Vulture Tavern, and other coffee-houses : many 
 lives were lost. Among the houses burnt was that in which was born the poet Gray, 
 whose father was an Exchange broker ; the house was rebuilt, and was, in 1774, occu- 
 pied by one Natzell, a perfumer ; and in 1824 it was still inhabited by a perfumer 
 No. 41, a few doors from Birchin-lane. 
 
 The second fire commenced also at a peruke-maker's, in Bishopsgate-street, adjoining 
 Leadenhall-street, November 7, 1765, when all the houses from Cornhill to St. Martin 
 Outwich Church were burnt ; and the church, parsonage house, Merchant Tailors' Hall, 
 and several houses in Threadneedle-street were much damaged. The White Lion 
 Tavern, purchased for 3000. on the preceding evening, and all the houses in White 
 Lion-court, were burnt, together with five houses in Cornhill and others in Leadenhall- 
 street, when several lives were lost. 
 
 COVENT GARDEN, 
 
 T YING between the north side of the Strand and Long-acre, has been a locality of 
 J-^ great interest and celebrity for six centuries past. In 1222 most of the present 
 parish of St. Paul, Covent-garden, was occupied by the garden of the Abbey at West- 
 minster; unde Convent, corrupted to Covent-garden, which name occurs in a deed 
 of 2 August, 9 Elizabeth. Strype also tells us that it " hath probably the name of 
 Covent-garden because it was the garden and fields to that large convent or monastery 
 where Exeter House formerly stood." Although this is the true orthography of the 
 word, we see it commonly, if not invariably, written Covent, as being taken from the 
 French convent, more immediately than from the Latin conventus; and in 1632 we 
 find Sir Syniond d'Ewes writing it " Coven or Common Garden." In 1627, only two 
 persons were rated to the poor of the parish of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, under the 
 head Covent-garden. The parish of St. Paul, Covent-garden, is completely encircled 
 by that of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields ; but the boundary of each, upon the site of 
 Bedford House and grounds, towards the lower end of Southampton -street, has been 
 contested since the eighteenth century. Although the Market dates from the reign 
 of Charles II., in 1726 and later, it was called Convent-garden ; and by the vulgar 
 " Common-garden" (Sir John Fielding, 1776). In digging for the foundations of the 
 new market, in 1829, a quantity of human bodies was exhumed on the north side of 
 the area, supposed to have been the Convent burial-ground. After the Dissolution, this 
 garden, and the lands belonging to it, were granted by Edward VI. to his uncle, the 
 Duke of Somerset, upon whose attainder they reverted to the Crown. In 1552, they 
 were granted by patent, with seven acres, called Long-acre, of the yearly value of 
 61. 6s. 8d., to John Earl of Bedford, who built a town residence, principally of wood, 
 upon the site of Southampton-street, where it remained till 1704 ; the garden extending 
 northward nearly to the site of the present market. Southampton-street was then 
 built, and named after Lady William Russell, daughter of the Earl of Southampton ; 
 and other streets were named from the Russell family as Russell, Bedford, Tavistock, 
 Chandos; King and Henrietta streets, from Charles I. and his queen; and James and 
 York streets, from the Duke of York, afterwards James II. 
 
 In 1634, Francis Earl of Bedford cleared the area ; in 1640, Inigo Jones built for 
 his lordship the church of St. Paul, on the west side (see CHTJKCHES, p. 195) ; and 
 lines of lofty houses upon arcades on the north and east sides, a near imitation of the 
 piazza at Livorno ; Tavistock-row being built, in 1704, upon the south. The area was
 
 COVENT GARDEN. 293 
 
 inclosed with railings, at 60 feet from the buildings ; and in the centre was a dial, 
 with a gilt ball, raised upon a column. One of Hollar's prints, temp. Charles II,, 
 shows the place as above, with uniform houses, one on each side of the church. In 
 1671, the Earl of Bedford obtained a patent for the Market, which, however, was for 
 a long time only held on the south side, against the garden-wall of Bedford House ; for 
 we read of " bonefires" and fire-works in the square in 1690 and 1691. 
 
 From its contiguity to the Cockpit and Drury-lane theatre, Coverit-garden, " amo- 
 rous and herbivorous," became surrounded with taverns. Here, in 1711, stood 
 " Punch's Theatre," which thinned the congregation in the church ; quacks used here 
 to harangue the mob, and give advice gratis. These adventitious notorieties did not 
 improve the morals of the locality 
 
 . " Where holy friars told their beads, 
 
 And nuns confess'd their evil deeds : 
 
 But, oh, sad change ! oh, shame to tell 
 
 How soon a prey to vice it fell ! 
 
 How? since its justest appellation 
 
 Is Grand Seraglio to the nation." Satire, 1756. 
 
 " The convent becomes a playhouse ; monks and nuns turn actors and actresses. The garden, formal 
 and quiet, where a salad was cut for a lady abbess, and flowers were gathered to adorn images, becomes 
 a market, noisy and full of life, distributing thousands of fruits and flowers to a vicious metropolis." 
 W. S. Landor. 
 
 Covent-garden was the first square inhabited by the great ; for immediately upon 
 the completion of the houses on the north and east sides, after Inigo Jones's design, 
 they were every one of them inhabited by persons of the first title and rank, as appears 
 by the parish-books of the rates at that time. Part of the cast side was destroyed by 
 fire, but not rebuilt in corresponding manner. 
 
 The chambers occupied by Richard Wilson, now the Tavistock breakfast-rooms, were 
 portions of the house successively inhabited by Sir Peter Lely, Sir Godfrey Kneller, 
 and Sir James Thornhill. Covent-garden, even so late as Pope's time, retained its 
 fashion, as may be seen in the Morning Advertiser, March 6th, 1730 : " The Lady 
 Wortley Montague, who has been greatly indisposed at her house in Covent-garden for 
 some time, is now perfectly recovered, and takes the benefit of the air in Hyde Park 
 every morning, by advice of her physicians." The parish of St. Paul was at that time 
 the only fashionable part of the town, and the residence of a great number of persons 
 of rank and title, and artists of the first eminence. A concourse of wits, literary 
 characters, and other men of genius, frequented the numerous coffee-houses, wine 
 and cider-cellars, jelly-shops, &c.,within the boundaries of Covent-garden; the list of whom 
 particularly includes the names of Butler, Addison, Sir Richard Steele, Otway, Dryden, 
 Pope, Warburton, Cibber, Fielding, Churchill, Bolingbroke, and Dr. Samuel Johnson; 
 Rich, Woodward, Booth, Wilkcs, Garrick, and Macklin ; Kitty Clive, Peg Woffington, 
 Mrs. Pritchard, the Duchess of Bolton, Lady Derby, Lady Thurlow, and the Duchess 
 of St. Albans ; Sir Peter Lely, Sir Godfrey Kneller, and Sir James Thornhill ; Vande- 
 velde, Zincke, Lambert, Hogarth, Hayman, Wilson, Dance, Meyer, and Samuel Foote. 
 
 The Garden became -famous when its opulent inhabitants exchanged their resi- 
 dences for the newly-built mansions in Hanover, Grosvenor, and Cavendish squares, 
 and Holies and the other streets adjacent. It was at that period that Mother Needham, 
 Mother Douglas (alias, according to Foote's Minor, Mother Cole), and Moll King, the 
 tavern-keepers and gamblers, took possession of the abdicated premises. Beneath St. 
 Paul's portico was " Tom King's Coffee-house." Upon the south side of the market- 
 sheds was the noted " Finish," originally the Queen's Head, kept by Mrs. Butler, open 
 all night the last of the Garden night taverns, and only cleared away in 1829. Shuter 
 was pot-boy here and elsewhere in the Garden, and, from carrying beer to the players 
 behind the scenes, joined them as an actor. 
 
 The north and east sides are principally occupied as hotels and taverns. At the Old 
 Hummums (in Arabic, " harnmam"), when a bagnio, died Parson Ford, who conspicu- 
 ously figures in Hogarth's Midnight Modern Conversation. There is a capital ghost- 
 story connected with his exit, told in Croker's edition of Boswell's Life of Dr. Johnson. 
 (See BEUFOBD COFFEE-HOUSE, p. 261.) 
 
 The scene of Dryden's Sir Martin Mar-all is laid in this once fashionable quarter of 
 the town; and the allusions to the square, the church, and the piazza are of constant
 
 294 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 occurrence in the dramas of the age of Charles II. and Queen Anne. Gay, in his- 
 Trivia, gives this picture of the place : 
 
 " Where Covent-garden's famous temple stands, 
 
 That boasts the work of Jones' immortal hands, 
 
 Columns with plain magnificence appear, 
 
 And graceful porches lead along the square. 
 
 Here oft my course I bend, when lo ! from far 
 
 I spy the furies of the foot-ball war : 
 
 The 'prentice quits his shop to join the crew 
 
 Increasing crowds the flying game pursue. 
 
 Oh ! whither shall I run? the throng draws nigh; 
 
 The ball now skims the street, now soars on high; 
 
 The dexterous glazier strong returns the bound, 
 
 And jingling sashes on the penthouse sound." 
 
 The Piazza was very fashionable when first erected, and much admired. However, 
 a century ago, it must have been " a sad place." Shenstone writes in 1774 : 
 
 " London is really dangerous at this time ; the pickpockets, formerly content with mere filching, 
 make no scruple to knock people down with bludgeons in Fleet-street, hi the Strand, and that at no 
 later hour than eight o'clock at night ; but in the Piazzas, Covent-garden, they come in large bodies, 
 armed with couteaus, and attack whole parties, so that the danger of coming out of the playhouse is of 
 gome weight in the opposite scale, when I am disposed to go to them oftener than I ought." 
 
 Otway has laid a scene in the Soldier's Fortune in Covent-garden Piazza; and Wycher- 
 ley, a scene in the Country Wife. Thomas Killigrew, the wit, lived in the north-west 
 and north-east angles; in the latter (corner of James-street), in 1676, dwelt "Viscountess 
 Musketry, the celebrated Princess of Babylon of De Grammont's Memoirs. The 
 famous George Kobins, of the Piazza, for fifty years, by his hammer, dispersed more 
 property than any other man of his time. Lord Byron used to say his order could not 
 go on long without George Robins to set their affairs right : he was beloved in 
 literary and theatrical circles. His auction-rooms were formerly the studio of Zoffany, 
 who painted here Foote, in the character of Major Sturgeon. Hogarth's Marriage-a- 
 la-Mode pictures were exhibited here gratis. One of the earliest records of artistic 
 Covent-garden, is that of Charles I. establishing at the house of Sir Francis Kynaston, 
 in "the Garden," an academy called "Museum Minervse," for the instruction of 
 gentlemen in arts and sciences, knowledge of medals, antiquities, painting, architecture, 
 and foreign languages. Mr. Cunningham's Handbook is pleasantly anecdotic of the 
 residence of many eminent persons resident in this locality. Till the present century, 
 the neighbouring streets were a fashionable quarter ; and Tavistock and Henrietta 
 streets, famed for perruquiers, were crowded with carriages at shopping hours. 
 
 In Russell-street, eastward, were Will's, BUTTON'S, and TOM'S COFFEE-HOUSES. 
 (See pp. 272, 262, 271). In James-street, northward, was formerly held a Bird-market 
 on Sunday mornings. In the house which occupied the site of Evans's Hotel, at the 
 south-west corner of the Piazza, lived Sir Harry Vane, the younger ; and next Sir 
 Kenelm Digby, of " Sympathetic Powder" fame. Aubrey says : 
 
 " Since the Restoration of Charles II., he (Sir Kenelm Digby) lived in the last faire house westward 
 in the north portico of Covent-garden, where my Lord Uenzil Holies lived since. He had a laboratory 
 there. I think he dyed in this house." 
 
 In the same house, from 1681 to 1689, lived Lord Crewe, Bishop of Durham ; and 
 it appears from the books of St. Paul's, Covent-garden, that almost all the foundlings 
 of the parish were laid at the door of the bishop's house. The exterior was much 
 altered for Russell, Earl of Orford, the English Admiral, who, in 1692, defeated the 
 French off Cape la Hogue ; and people are found who see a fancied resemblance 
 in the front of the house to the hull of a ship. Lord Orford's house was subsequently 
 occupied by Thomas Lord Archer; and by James West, the 'great collector of books, 
 prints, drawings, &c., the sale of whose collection in this house occupied the auctioneer 
 six weeks. After this sale, in the house was established the first family hotel in 
 London, by David Low. About 1790, Mrs. Hudson, the proprietor, advertised her 
 house, "with stabling, for one hundred noblemen and horses." In the garden was 
 formerly a small cottage, in which the Kembles, when in the zenith of their fame at 
 Covent Garden Theatre, occasionally took up their abode ; and here was born the 
 gifted Fanny Kemble, in the chamber whi^h now forms the gallery to the Music-room of 
 Evans's Hotel. Evans was succeeded by Mr. John Green, for whom was built the 
 magnificent room, designed by Finch Hall, and opened in 1855. Here is a very inte- 
 resting collection of portraits of eminent dramatists, actors, and actresses.
 
 CO VENT GARDEN. 295 
 
 In King-street lived the lady for whom mahogany was first used in England; and a 
 few of the houses in the street have doors of solid mahogany. 
 
 Next door, westward of the original Garrick Club-house, in King-street, lived Arne, 
 the upholsterer; his son, Dr. Arne, the composer, and his daughter, Mrs. Gibber, were 
 born in this house ; where had lodged the Indian Kings, commemorated in the Tatler 
 and Spectator. The house has long been tenanted by Mr. William Cribb, who was 
 the first to appreciate the genius of Mr. Thomas Sydney Cooper, R.A. 
 
 It was in Rose-street (Dec. 18th, 1679) that Dryden, returning to his house in 
 Long-acre, over against Rose-street, was barbarously assaulted and wounded by three 
 persons, hired by Wilmot, Earl of Rochester. There are many allusions to this Rose- 
 alley Ambuscade, as it is called, in our old State Poems. Butler, the author of 
 JLudibras, lived, in the latter part of his life, in Rose-street, " in a studious and 
 retired manner," and died there in 1680 : the house was taken down in 1863. Butler is 
 said to have been buried at the expense of Mr. William Longueville, " though he did 
 not die in debt." Some of his friends wished to have interred him in Westminster 
 Abbey with proper solemnity ; but not finding others willing to contribute to the 
 expense, his corpse was deposited privately, " in the churchyard of St. Paul's, Covent- 
 garden." In 1786 a marble monument was placed on the inside south wall of the 
 church, with this inscription : 
 
 " This little monumert was erected in the year 1796, by some of the parishioners of Covent-garden, 
 in memory of the celebrated Samuel Butler, who was buried in this church, A.D. 1680. 
 
 "A few plain men, to pomp and state unknown, 
 O'er a poor bard have raised this humble stone ; 
 Whose wants alone his genius could surpass 
 Victim of zeal ! the matchless Hudibras ! 
 What though fair freedom suffer'd in his page, 
 Reader, forgive the author for the age ! 
 How few, alas ! disdain to cringe and cant, 
 When 'tis the mode to play the sycophant. 
 But, oh! let all be taught from Butler's fate, 
 Who hope to make their fortunes by the great, 
 That wit and pride are always dangerous things, 
 And little faith is due to courts and kings." 
 
 In 1721, Alderman Barber erected to Butler a monument in Westminster Abbey, 
 upon its epitaph Samuel Wesley wrote these stinging lines : 
 
 "While Butler, needy wretch, was still alive, 
 No generous patron would a dinner give ; 
 See him, when starved to death, and turned to dust, 
 Presented with a monumental bust. 
 The poet's fate is here in emblem shown : 
 He ask'd for bread, and he received a stone." 
 
 It was soon after this proposed to erect a monument in Covent-garden Church, for 
 which Dennis, the critic, wrote an inscription, with these lines : 
 
 " He was a whole species of poet in one : 
 
 Admirable in a manner 
 In which no one else has been tolerable : 
 A manner which began and ended in him, 
 
 In which he knew no guide, 
 
 And has found no followers." 
 
 In TavistocTc-row, No. 4, lived Miss Reay, the mistress of Lord Sandwich : she was 
 shot in the Piazza, in 1779, by the Rev. W. Hackmau, in a fit of jealousy : 
 
 " A Sandwich favourite was his fair, 
 
 And her he dearly loved; 
 By whom six children had, we hear; 
 
 This story fatal proved. 
 A clergyman, wicked one ! 
 
 ]n Covent-garden shot her; 
 No time to cry upon her God, 
 
 It's hoped He's not forgot her." &rub-street Ballad. 
 
 In Southampton-street is a bar-gate ; the Duke of Bedford having power to erect 
 walls and gates at the end of every thoroughfare on his estate. Here, in 1711, 
 Bohea-tea was sold at 26*. per pound, at the sign of the Barber's Pole. At No. 27 
 lived David Garrick, before he removed to the Adelphi. No. 31, late Godfrey and 
 Cooke's, was the oldest chemist's and druggist's shop in London ; but was removed from, 
 here in 1863. Here phosphorus was first manufactured in England ; the above
 
 296 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 premises having been the house, shop, and laboratory of Ambrose Godfrey Hanckwitz, 
 who, immediately after the discovery of phosphorus by Brandt, the alchemist, under 
 the instructions of the celebrated Robert Boyle, succeeded in preparing an ounce of 
 solid phosphorus; such as he subsequently sold at 50*. and 60*. an ounce. His 
 laboratory was a fashionable resort in the afternoon on certain occasions, when he 
 performed popular experiments for the amusement of his friends. It opened into a 
 garden, which extended as far ast he Strand. Curious prints exist of the laboratory 
 in its former state ; also a portrait of Hanckwitz, engraved by Vertue (1718), which 
 he had distributed among his customers as a keepsake. Hanckwitz died in 1741. 
 His successors, Godfrey and Cooke, maintained the date 1680 on their premises in 
 Southampton-street, and over the entrance to the laboratory, in the rear. 
 
 In Maiden-lane, Andrew Marvell lodged in a second-floor while he sat in Parliament 
 for Hull, and refused a Treasury order for 1000., brought to him by Lord Danby 
 from the king. Voltaire lodged at the White Peruke. More in character with the 
 place was the Cyder Cellar, opened about 1730, and described in Adventures Under- 
 ground, 1750; and by Charles Lamb in the London Magazine. In the house, 
 No. 26, nearly opposite, lived William Turner, who dressed wigs, shaved beards, and, 
 in the days of queues, topknots, and hair-powder, waited on the gentlemen of the 
 Garden at their own houses. A door under the arched passage on the right led to the 
 shop, in the room above which was born, in 1775, his son, Joseph Mallord William Turner, 
 landscape-painter. The great painter's natal house has been taken down : here, and in 
 the above house, Turner painted 59 pictures, which he exhibited at the Royal Academy. 
 
 At the house at the south-east corner of Bedford-street, Clay sold his papier-mache. 
 Clay was a pupil of Baskerville, of Birmingham, and first applied papier-mache to tea- 
 trays in 1760, by which he realized a fortune of 80,000/. Some of the finest of his 
 trays were painted by early members of the Royal Academy, among whom was 
 Wheatley. " At the Riding-hood Shop, the corner of Chandos and Bedford-street," 
 Humphry Wanley, the antiquary, was lodging in 1718. 
 
 CRANE-COURT. 
 
 OF the four-and-thirty streets, lanes, courts, and alleys leading from Fleet-street, the 
 most notable is Crane-court, eastward of Fetter-lane ; though this court does not 
 lead anywhere, it being a cul-de-sac. It was originally named Two Crane-court. It 
 was rebuilt immediately after the Great Fire, and contains a few specimens of fine 
 brickwork. Strype describes Crane-court as " a very handsome open place, graced with 
 good buildings, well inhabited by persons of repute." Until about 1782 it was paved with 
 black and white marble. The large end house was built by Sir Christopher Wren, and 
 was inhabited by Dr. Edward Brown, an eminent physician, until 1710, when it was 
 purchased, with the " adjoyning little house," by the Royal Society ; the President, 
 Sir Isaac Newton, recommending it as being " in the middle of the town, and out of 
 noise." On the meeting-nights, a lamp was hung out over the entrance to the court 
 from Fleet-street. The Society met here until 1782, when they removed to Somerset 
 House, and sold that in Crane-court to the Scottish Hospital and Corporation, who now 
 occupy it. This Company originated in " the Scottish Box," in 1613 : the members 
 then numbered only 20, and met in Lamb's Conduit-street ; their Charter dates from 
 1665. The Hospital now distributes about 22001. a year, chiefly in 101. pensions to 
 old people ; and the princely bequest of 76,495^., by Mr. W. Kinloch, allow s 1800Z. 
 being given in pensions of 4Z. to disabled soldiers and sailors. The monthly meetings 
 of the Society are preceded by Divine service in the chapel, in the rear of the bouse. 
 The meeting-room has an enriched ceiling of finely-carved oak. The walls are hung 
 with portraits of the Duke of Lauderdale, by Lely; Mary Queen of Scots, by 
 Zucchero; the Earl of Bedford; the Duke of Queensberry; the second Duke of 
 Sutherland ; James, third Duke of Montrose ; the Scottish Regalia ; and a large 
 whole-length portrait of William IV., painted by Wilkie, and presented by him to the 
 Scottish Hospital, &c. 
 
 Crane-court had a few other notabilities. In the first house on the right (now 
 rebuilt) lived Dryden Leach, the printer, who, in 1763, was arrested on a general 
 warrant, upon suspicion of having printed Wilkes's North Briton, No. 45 : Leach was
 
 CROSBY HALL. 297 
 
 taken out of his bed in the night, his papers were seized, and even his journeymen and 
 servants were apprehended ; the only foundation for the arrest being a hearsay that 
 Wilkes had heen seen going into Leach's house. Wilkes had been sent to the Tower 
 for the No. 45 ; after much litigation he obtained a verdict of 4000Z., and Leach 
 300Z. damages from three of the king's messengers, who had executed the illegal 
 warrant. Crane-court has long been a sort of nursery for newspapers : here was the 
 office of the Commercial Chronicle ; the Traveller removed to No. 9 from Fleet-street, 
 and remained here until its junction with the Globe. In the basement of another house 
 were printed the early numbers of Punch ; or, the London Charivari ; and in No. 10 
 (Palmer and Clayton's), immediately opposite, was first printed the Illustrated London 
 News, projected and established by Herbert Ingram, in the spring of 1842. The Society 
 of Arts first met in apartments over a circulating library in Crane-court ; and here the 
 Society awarded its first prize (151.) to Cosway, then a boy of fifteen, and afterwards 
 a fashionable miniature-painter. The circulating library in the court was one of the 
 earliest established in the metropolis ; the first was Batho's, about 1740, at No. 132, 
 Strand ; in 1770 there were but four. 
 
 CROSS Y HALL, 
 
 IN Bishopsgate-street, and north of the entrance into Crosby-square, is a portion of 
 Crosby Place, built upon ground leased of the Prioress of St. Helen's in 1466, by 
 Sir John Crosby, alderman, one of the sheriffs in 1471, knighted by Edward IV. in the 
 same year, and deceased in 1475 : " so short a time enjoyed he that his large and 
 sumptuous building ; he was buried in St. Helen's, the parish church ; a fair monu- 
 ment to him and his lady was raised there." (Stow.) 
 
 The next possessor of Crosby Place was Richard Duke of Gloucester, afterwards 
 King Richard III.; and here Shakspeare has laid a portion of his drama of that name; 
 though " the historian is compelled to say, that neither at the death of Henry VI. in 
 1471, nor at the marriage of Richard with the Lady Anne in 1473, is it probable 
 that Richard was in possession of Crosby Place ;" but here he determined upon the 
 deposition, and perhaps the death, of the young King Edward V., and here plotted his 
 own elevation to the vacant throne. 
 
 The Rev. Joseph Hunter, in his New Illustrations of Shakspeare, says : " In the course of my 
 researches only one document has presented itself which is entirely unknown, containing a notice of 
 Shakspeare during: the course of his London life. It shows us, what has hitherto remained undis- 
 covered, in what part of London he had fixed his residence at the period of his life when he was pro- 
 ducing the choicest of his works. We have evidence of the most decisive nature, that on October 1, 
 in the fortieth year of Queen Elizabeth, which answers to the year 1598, Shakspeare was one of the 
 inhabitants of St. Helen, Bishopsgate, and consequently a near neighbour of Crosby Hall. In an assess- 
 ment-roll of that date, for levying the first of three entire subsidies which were granted to the Queen 
 in the thirty-ninth year of her reign, the name of William Shakspeare occurs in connexion with that 
 of Sir John Spencer, and other inhabitants of the parish of St. Helen's, with the sum 51. 13*. 4d., the 
 assessment, against the poet's name. This document gives us the names of his neighbours ; among 
 whom we find Sir John Spencer; Dr. Richard Taylor, Dr. Peter Turner, Dr. Edward Jordan, all well- 
 known physicians ; Dr. Cullimore, Robert Honeywood, and the heads of the wealthy families of Read 
 and Robinson." 
 
 Crosby Place was next purchased by Sir Bartholomew Read, who kept here his 
 mayoralty, 1501. Its next possessor was Sir John Best, Mayor in 1516 (the year of 
 Evil May-day), and by him it was sold to Sir Thomas More, in what year is uncertain ; 
 but it was probably soon after his return from his mission to Bruges, in 1514 and 
 1515 ; and as this journey forms the groundwork of the Utopia, there is reason to 
 infer this charming romance to have been written at Crosby Place, to which the 
 picture in the preface of Sir Thomas's domestic habits may apply. There is little or 
 no doubt that More wrote his History of Richard the Third at Crosby Place, however 
 it may be with the Utopia. Here, too, More probably received Henry VIII. j for 
 this was just the time he was in high favour with the king, who then kept his court at 
 Castle Baynard's, and St. Bride's. In 1523 More sold Crosby Place to his dearest 
 friend Antonio Bonvisi, a rich merchant of Lucca, who leased the mansion to William 
 Rastell, More'* nephew; and to William Roper, the husband of More's favourite 
 daughter Margaret. In the reign of Edward VI., Bonvisi, Rastell, and Roper were 
 driven abroad by religious persecution, and Crosby Place was forfeited, but restored on 
 the accession of Mary. The next proprietors were Jermyn Cioll, who married a cousin
 
 2P8 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of Sir Thomas Gresham ; and Alderman Bond, who added to the edifice a lofty turret, 
 though no traces of it are now to be found. 
 
 In 1594, Sir John Spencer purchased Crosby Place, and in it kept his mayoralty that 
 year. He greatly improved the Place, and " builded a most large warehouse near 
 thereunto." He was the " rich Spencer," worth nearly a million of money ; and here 
 he entertained Sully, when he came on a special embassy from Henry IV. of France to 
 James I. Sir John Spencer's daughter and sole heiress married William, the second 
 Lord Compton, afterwards Earl of Northampton, and ancestor of the present Marquis. 
 During Lord Compton's proprietorship, the celebrated Countess of Pembroke, " Sidney's 
 sister, Pembroke's mother," lived many years in Crosby Place. Spencer, Earl of 
 Northampton, son of the last-mentioned proprietor, resided here in 1638. Two years 
 previously, the property was leased to Sir John Langham, sheriff in 1642, during 
 whose occupation it was frequently used as a prison for Royalists. His son, Sir Stephen 
 Langham, succeeded him; and during his tenancy, Crosby Place was so injured by fire, 
 that it was never afterwards used as a dwelling. In 1672, the Upper Hall was con- 
 verted into a Presbyterian meeting-house by the Rev. T. Watson ; he was followed by 
 Stephen Charnock ; Dr. Grosvenor, a pupil of Benjamin Keach ; and Edmund Calamy, 
 jun. The congregation continued to meet here till 1769, when it was dispersed; 
 previously to which a farewell sermon was preached here by the Rev. Mr. Jones, the 
 predecessor of the Rev. Dr. Collyer, of Peckbam. 
 
 The Hall was then let as a packer's warehouse. In 1677, the present houses in 
 Crosby-square were built on the ruins of the old mansion. In 1831, the packer's 
 lease of the Hall expired ; when public attention was drawn to its restoration, as the 
 finest example in the metropolis of the domestic mansion of Perpendicular work. Its 
 long list of distinguished tenants, above all, its association with Richard III., greatly 
 popularized the proposed restoration ; and, on June 27, 1836, the first stone of the 
 new work was laid by Lord Mayor Copeland, alderman of Bishopsgate Ward ; when 
 the Hall was fitted up with banners, strewed with rushes, and an Elizabethan breakfast 
 served upon the long tables. 
 
 On July 12, 1838, a musical performance was given in the Hall, after service in St. 
 Helen's Church, in commemoration of Sir Thomas Gresham : the place is fraught with 
 musical memories, for under its shadow once lived Byrde, Wilbye, and Morley, the 
 celebrated madrigalists. 
 
 The restoration was completed in 1842 : repairs have been made, and much of the 
 original mansion has been built : the Hall, the Council-chamber, with the Throne- 
 room above, remain ; and the vaults are a fine specimen of early brickwork. The 
 entrance to Crosby-square is through a small gateway from Bishopsgate-street. The 
 Hall consists of one story only, lighted by lofty and elegant windows, and a beautiful 
 oriel window, reaching from the floor to the roof. The Council-chamber* was stripped 
 of many of its decorations in 1816 by the proprietor, who removed them to adorn a 
 dairy at his seat, Fawley Court, Bucks ; but the finely -coved ceiling became the pro- 
 perty of Mr. Yarnold, of Great St. Helen's, at the sale of whose Collection, in 1825, 
 this lot was purchased by Mr. Cottingham, the architect, who fitted it as the ceiling 
 of his Elizabethan Museum at No. 43, Waterloo-bridge-road : at the dispersion of 
 which, in 1851, the relic was again sold. The Throne-room has an oak-ribbed rounded 
 roof ; and among its windows, is one reaching the entire height of the apartment. 
 
 The Great Hall, the innermost sanctuary, is 54 ft. long, 27J broad, and 40 feet high. 
 It has a minstrels' gallery,, but not a dais. 
 
 The glory of the place is, however, the roof, which is an elaborate architectural study, and decidedly 
 one of the finest specimens of timber-work in existence. It differs from many other examples in being 
 an inner roof; it is of cork or chestnut, of low pointed arches, approaching to an ellipse. From the 
 main points of intersection hang pendants, which end in octagonal ornaments, pierced with small 
 niches, each pendant forming the centre of four arches ; so that, in whatever point it is viewed, the 
 design presents a series of arches of elegant construction, whilst the spandrels are pierced with perpen- 
 dicular trefoil-headed niches. The principal timbers are ornamented with small flowers, or knots of 
 foliage, in a hollow ; and the whole springs from octangular corbels of stone attached to the piers 
 between the windows. Here the superior taste of the architect is strikingly displayed in the method 
 by which he has avoided an horizontal import to his ceiling, by constructing arches of timber corre- 
 
 * In 1794, Mr. Capon painted for John Philip Kemble, at Xew Drury-lane Theatre, the Council 
 Chamber, for the play of Jane Shore ; a correct restoration of the original apartment, as far as existing- 
 documents would warrant.
 
 CRUTCHED FRIARS. 299 
 
 spending with the ornamental portions of the roof above the lateral windows, and thus completely 
 avoiding a horizontal line, which was as much the abomination of our ancient architects as it is the 
 favourite of our modern ones. These arches are surmounted by an elegant entablature, of a moulded 
 architrave, a frieze of pierced quatrefoils in square panels, and an embattled cornice ; each quatrefoil 
 contained a small flower, of which fifty-six originally existed on each side of the Hall, the designs being 
 dissimilar. 
 
 The oriel, forming an ornamented recess in the side of the Hall, has ever been re- 
 garded as one of its best features : it is vaulted with stone, beautifully groined, the 
 ribs springing from small pillars attached to the angles; while knots of foliage and 
 bosses are at the points of intersection. Among them is a ram trippant, the crest of 
 Sir John Crosby. Tliis and the other windows have been, for the most part, filled with 
 stained glass, decorated with the armorial bearings of the several personages famous in 
 the history of Crosby Place, as well as of persons of taste who have contributed to its 
 restoration. The lower aperture has been closed by the same piece of wood-work that 
 was formerly elevated above it. The floor is paved with stone in small squares arranged 
 diagonally. In the north wall is a fire-place, which is at least singular, if not unique, 
 in a Hall of this age. 
 
 Crosby Hall, in its restored state, has been let for musical performances and lectures ; 
 and it was, for some time, the meeting-place of a Literary Society. The west front of 
 the premises, next Bishopsgate-street, has been composed in the style of the half- 
 timbered houses of the Crosby period. Here is a statue of Sir John Crosby, by Nixon j 
 with his arms and crest. 
 
 CRUTCHED FRIARS. 
 
 rpHIS picturesque fragment of old London, which Hatton describes " as a very con- 
 -L siderable, though crooked street," lies between Jewry-street and Hart-street, the 
 oldest portion being a short distance towards Tower-hill, from Fenchurch-street. Here 
 remained till lately a group of houses, but little altered since Queen Elizabeth's days j 
 the quaint gables, the highly-pitched roofs, the peculiar arrangement of the water- 
 troughs, the projections over the shop windows little more than seven feet in height, 
 the thick window-frames and small squares of glass all denoted the considerable age 
 the structure. 
 
 The street derives its name from being on the site of the ancient monastery of 
 Crouched or Crossed Friars (Fratres SanctcB Crucis), founded in 1298, by Ralph Hosier 
 and William Sabernes, who became friars here. Originally they carried in their hands 
 an iron cross, which they afterwards exchanged for one of silver. They wore a cross, 
 made of red cloth, on their garment, which at first was grey, and in later times altered 
 to blue. One Adams was the first prior, and Edmund Streatham the last. Their 
 annual income seems to have been small. Henry VIII. granted their house to Sir 
 Thomas Wyat, the elder, who built a handsome mansion on part of the site. This 
 house afterwards became the residence of John Lord Lumley, a celebrated warrior in 
 the time of Henry VIII., who greatly distinguished himself at the battle of Flodden, 
 by his valour and the number of men he brought into the field. " John Lord 
 Lumley, grandson to the first," says Pennant, " was amongst the few of the nobility 
 of that time who had a taste for literature." He married his sister Barbary to Hum- 
 phrey Llwyd, of Denbigh, and by his assistance formed a considerable library, which 
 at present makes a valuable part of the British Museum. The refectory was converted 
 into the first glass-house ever established in England, which was burned down in 
 1575. On the site was subsequently erected a stupendous tea-warehouse for the East 
 India Company. 
 
 Near this place stood a Northumberland House, which was inhabited in the reign of 
 Henry VI. by two of the Earls of Northumberland. One lost his life at the battle 
 of St. Albans, and the other his son in that of Toulon. Being deserted by the Percies, 
 the gardens were converted into bowling-alleys, " and other parts," says Stow, " into 
 dicing-bouses." This was probably one of the first of those evil places of resort. 
 
 In the valley, now crossed by a viaduct of the Blackwall Railway, were the 
 Almshouses of the Drapers' Company, erected and endowed in 1521, by Sir John 
 Milborne. They were taken down in 1862; they are described under ALMS- 
 HOUSES, p. 8. 
 
 The neighbourhood has, however, a far more remote antiquity, for an inscribed stone
 
 T 
 
 300 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 found in the Tenter-ground, in Goodman's-fields, while making an excavation in a 
 garden at a depth of about seven feet below the surface, takes us back to the Roman 
 occupation of Britain. Several fragments of urns were found at the same time. The 
 inscription connects it with the Sixth Legion; and from it this portion of the 
 Roman army is presumed to have been stationed for a time in or near London. 
 
 In 1865, there was excavated in Jewry-street a portion of the western wall of old 
 London. Almost upon the very day that the above discovery was made of the western 
 wall, near Aldersgate- street was excavated a portion of the eastern. The wall runs 
 in a straight line from the Tower to Aldgate, by Trinity-square, where a portion has 
 been discovered, which, though not Roman, was supposed to rest on Roman founda- 
 tions. In 1841, the Blackwall Railway, much further north than this point, cut 
 through Roman remains of the great Wall, nearly opposite Milborne's Almshouses. 
 These remains are engraved in Knight's London, vol. i. p. 164, where the fragment is 
 described as " recently excavated behind the Minories." In August, 1864, was dis- 
 covered an extensive fragment of a Norman wall, upon undoubtedly Roman foundations ; 
 and partly behind the Minories, on the east side of the lower end of Jewry-street, which 
 had been cleared of a number of small houses, remains were found at various levels ; as, 
 masses of Roman stonework, with bondings of Roman bricks, or, as we should call 
 them, tiles; a superstructure of earlier date; and in the lowest depths horns of oxen 
 and other remains in abundance. East of the site is Vine-street, named from a vine- 
 yard anciently there, in the rear of the Minories. Some of the entire Roman bricks, 
 cleared of cement, &c., were fine specimens of the building materials of our conquerors. 
 (See GOODMAN'S FIELDS.) 
 
 CRYPTS. 
 
 HE Crypts, vaults, or undercrofts remaining in the metropolis, are interesting 
 specimens of its ecclesiastical and domestic architecture. 
 
 The Crypt or Lower Chapel of Old London Bridge belongs to the past : it was constructed in the 
 tenth or f;reat pier, and was entered both from the upper apartment and the street, as well as by a flight 
 of stone stairs winding round a pillar which led into it from outside the pier : whilst in front of this 
 latter entrance the sterling formed a piatform at low-water, which thus rendered it accessible from the 
 river. This Crypt was about 60 feet in length, 20 feet high, and had a groined roof, supported by stone 
 ribs springing from clustered columns ; at the intersections were bosses sculptured with cherubs, epis- 
 copal heads, and a crowned head (probably Richard Coeur-de-Lion), grouped with four masks; and 
 near the entrance was a piscina for holy water. Here was a rich series of windows looking on to the 
 water, and the floor was paved with black and white marble : herein was buried Peter of Colechurch, 
 the priest-architect of the bridge. The Chapel was taken down in 1700 : the Crypt had been many 
 years used as a paper warehouse ; and though the floor was always from 8 to 10 feet under the surface 
 at high-water mark, yet the masonry was so good that no water ever penetrated. In front of the 
 bridge-pier a square fish-pond was formed in the sterling-, into which the fish were carried by the tide, 
 and there detained by a wire grating placed over it ; and " an ancient servant of London Bridge, now 
 (1827) verging upon his hundredth summer, well remembers to have gone down through the Chapel to 
 fish in the pond." Thomson's Chronicles, p. 517. 
 
 ST. BARTHOLOMEW'S CRYPT, Smithfield, exists in good preservation under the 
 dining-hall or refectory of the priory, of which also there remain other appurtenances. 
 The crypt is of great length, has a double row of beautiful aisles, with Early-Pointed 
 arches, divided by Middlesex-passage, leading from Great to Little Bartholomew- close ; 
 a door at the extremity is traditionally said to have communicated by a subterranean 
 passage with Canonbury, at Islington. Beneath the " Coach and Horses" public- 
 house, probably once the hospitium, within the west gate of the monastery, is the 
 remains of another crypt. 
 
 BISHOPSGATE-STREET WITHIN, No. 66 (taken down in 1865), was built upon a 
 crypt, of ecclesiastical architecture. 
 
 Bow CHURCH CRYPT, Cheapside, consists of columns and simple Romanesque groin- 
 ings, said to be of the age of the Conqueror ; it is the crypt of the ancient Norman 
 church, but it was mistaken by Wren for Roman workmanship. It has long been used 
 as a dead-house, is ventilated, and the coffins are put in fair order. At Messrs. Grow- 
 coek's, in Bow Churchyard, is a small portion of another crypt or undercroft. It is 
 difficult to understand how Wren was led to the belief that the above remains were 
 Roman ; unless, as was pointed out by Mr. Gwilt, in an admirable description of the 
 crypt ( Vetusta Monumenta, vol. v. plates 61 to 65), Wren was deceived by the fact
 
 CRYPTS. 301 
 
 that Roman bricks are used in the construction of the arches ; or did he mean that 
 they were more Romano, or in the Roman manner ? 
 
 ST. ETHELEEDA'S CHAPEL CRYPT, Ely-place, originally a burial-place, is not 
 vaulted, but has for its roof the chapel-floor, supported by enormous chestnut posts and 
 girders. During the Interregnum, when Ely House and its offices were converted 
 into a prison and hospital, this crypt became a kind of military canteen ; it was sub- 
 sequently used as a public cellar to vend drink in ; and here were frequently revellinga 
 heard during divine service in the chapel above. 
 
 GABEAWAY'S COFFEE-HOUSE, 3, Change-alley, Cornhill, had a crypt of fourteenth 
 and sixteenth century architecture, was of ecclesiastical character, and had a piscina ; 
 it was used as the coffee-house wine-cellar, and extended under Change-alley. 
 
 GEEAED'S HALL CEYPT, Basing-lane, was the only remaining vestige of the mansion 
 of John Gisors, pepperer, Mayor of London in 1245 ; " a great house of old time, 
 builded upon arched vaults, and with arched gates of stone brought from Cane in 
 Normandy" (Stow) ; Gisors' Hall being corrupted to Gerard's Hall. The date of this 
 crypt was probably late in the thirteenth century. The groined roof was supported by 
 sixteen columns : the crypt, although generally resembling a subterranean ecclesiastical 
 edifice, was constructed solely for the stowage of merchandize, and was thus an example 
 of the warehouse of the wealthy London merchant of the thirteenth century. The 
 great house called the Vintrie stood upon similar vaults, which were used for the 
 stowage of French wines; it was likewise occupied, in 1314, by Sir John Gisors, who 
 was a vintner. Gerard's Hall Crypt, with the modern inn which had replaced the 
 hall, was removed in forming a new street in 1859, when some curious old merchant's 
 marks were found. 
 
 Here was preserved the tutelar effigies of " Gerard the gyant," a fair specimen of a London sign, 
 temp. Charles II. Here also was shown the staff used by Gerard in the wars, and a ladder to ascend to 
 the top of the staff; and in the neighbouring church of St. Mildred, Bread-street, hangs a huge tilting- 
 helmet, said to have been worn by the said gyant. The staif, Stow thinks, may rather have been used 
 as a May-pole, and to stand in the hall decked with evergreens at Christmas ; the ladder serving for 
 decking the pole and hall-roof.^<7. W. Archer. 
 
 GUILDHALL CEYPT is the finest and most extensive undercroft remaining in London, 
 and is the only portion of the ancient hall (erected in 1411) which escaped the Great 
 Fire. It extends the whole length beneath the Guildhall from east to west, divided 
 nearly equally by a wall, having an ancient Pointed door. The crypt is further divided 
 into aisles by clustered columns, from which spring the stone-ribbed groins of the vaulting, 
 composed partly of chalk and bricks ; the principal intersections being covered with 
 carved bosses of flowers, heads, and shields. The north and south aisles had formerly 
 mullioned windows, now walled up. At the eastern end is a fine Early-English arched 
 entrance, in fair preservation ; and in the south-eastern angle is an octangular recess, 
 which formerly was ceiled by an elegantly groined roof; height, 13 feet. The vault- 
 ing, with four-centred arches, is very striking, and is probably some of the earliest of 
 the sort, which seems peculiar to this country. Though called the Tudor arch, the 
 time of its introduction was Lancastrian. (See Weale's London, p. 159.) In 1851 
 the stone-work was rubbed down and cleaned, and the clustered shafts and capitals 
 were repaired ; and on the visit of Queen Victoria to Guildhall, July 9, 1851, a ban- 
 quet was served to her Majesty and suite in this crypt, which was characteristically 
 decorated for the occasion. Opposite the north entrance is a large antique bowl, of 
 Egyptian red granite, which was presented to the Corporation by Major Cookson in 
 1802, as a memorial of the British achievements in Egypt. 
 
 " GTTY FAWKES'S CELLAB" was a crypt-like apartment beneath the old House of 
 Lords, the ancient Parliament-chamber at Westminster, believed to have been rebuilt 
 by King Henry II. on the ancient foundations of Edward the Confessor's reign. " The 
 walls of this building were nearly seven feet in thickness, and the vaults below (' Guy 
 Fawkes's Cellar') were very massive. Piers of brickwork (possibly of Charles the 
 Second's time) had been raised to strengthen the ceiling and sustain the weight of the 
 Parliament-chamber floor, together with strong rafters of oak, supported by twelve 
 octagonal oak posts, on stone plinths. This building was taken down about the year
 
 302 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 1823, when it was ascertained that the vaults had been the ancient kitchen of the Old 
 Palace; and near the south end the original huttery -hatch was discovered, together 
 with an adjoining pantry or cupboard." (Britton and Bailey's Westminster Palace, 
 p. 421.) The conspirators obtained access to the vaults through a house in the south- 
 east corner of Old Palace-yard, which was at one time occupied as the Ordnance Office, 
 and afterwards as the entrance to the House of Lords. 
 
 After the Gunpowder Plot, Nov. 5, 1605, it became the custom to search and carefully examine all 
 the vaults and passages under the Houses of Parliament, previous to the Sovereign opening the Session. 
 This precautionary inspection, continued to our time, was performed by certain officers of Parliament, 
 headed by the Usher of the Black Rod, who went through the vaults, and examined the various nooks and 
 recesses that might, if conspirators were so inclined, again hold combustibles, with the intent, " suddenly 
 and with one blast, to blow up and tear in pieces " those assembled on the occasion in Parliament. 
 The search took place 011 the morning of the day of the Royal ceremonial. 
 
 HOSTELBY OF THE PBiOES OF LEWES CBYPT, the, was discovered in Carter-lane, 
 Southwark, in 1832. This vaulted chamber was supported by six demi-columns, attached 
 to the side walls ; the columns and arches of wrought stone, and the vaultings of chalk. 
 In 1834 was discovered another cryptal chamber, with a plain massive round pillar in 
 the centre, from which sprang elliptic-ribbed arches, forming a groined roof. This 
 vault is supposed to have been the cellar of "the Hostelry for Travellers, which had 
 the sign of the ' Walnut Tree.' " (Stow.) Both Crypts originally belonged to the 
 town-lodging of the Priors of Lewes ; the larger Crypt being under the great Hall, 
 which had been used as the grammar school-room of St. Olave's, founded by Queen 
 Elizabeth. These crypts were destroyed in making the approaches to the New 
 London Bridge. 
 
 ST. JOHN'S CRYPT, Clerkenwell, is semi-Norman and Early English, and part of 
 the magnificent Priory Church of St. John of Jerusalem ; the superstructure of the 
 present Church of St. John being mostly the patched-up remains of the choir. This 
 Crypt in modern times (1762) has been rendered notorious by the detection of 
 the imposture known as the Cock-lane Ghost. The most interesting remaining 
 portions of the Crypt comprise the central avenue and a small compartment on 
 each side of it by the entrance at the east end. The Crypt appears to have been 
 originally above ground, and not subterraneous : an entrance to it may be seen in 
 Hollar's view of the east end as it appeared in 1661 from St. John-street, with the 
 hospital gardens and boundary-wall. The central portion of the crypt consists of four 
 severeys or bays : two simple and plain, being semi-Norman, and two Early English, and 
 very perfect, the details and mouldings being worthy of careful examination. The 
 ribs of the Early-English bays spring from triple-clustered columns, in each angle of 
 the bays, with moulded capitals and bases ; the upper moulding horizontally fluted, 
 similar to some Grecian-Ionic bases. The central shafts of the clustered columns are 
 pointed, and the diagonal ribs have three mouldings : the central one is pointed and the 
 outer are rolls. This pointed bowtell occurs frequently in semi-Norman and Early- 
 English work, and is coeval with the introduction of the pointed arch. Suspended 
 from the keystone of each arch is an iron ring. On each side of the two western bays 
 of the central aisle is a deeply-recessed pointed widow : the doorways are trefoil-headed. 
 
 LAMBETH PALACE CETPT, or Under- chapel, is considered to be the oldest portion 
 of the Palace. It consists of a series of strongly-groined stone arches, supported cen- 
 trally by a short, massive column, and by brackets in the side walls. These vaults are 
 now converted into cellars ; they might, possibly, have been originally used for Divine . 
 worship, as there are two entrances to them from the cloisters. 
 
 " Lambeth Palace Chapel retains a Crypt, a doorway, and windows of great beauty, but the Chaprl 
 has otherwise been quite barbarised ; and the remainder of this archiepiscopal residence, though founded 
 as early as the reign of Richard Cceur-de-Lion (before which it was a residence of the Bishop of Rochester), 
 now forms only a confused medley of buildings, with no fragment older than the fifteenth century." 
 AVeale's London, p. 145. 
 
 LAMB'S CHAPEL CETPT, Monkwell-street, is a remarkably pure and finished speci- 
 men of the Norman style. The vaulted roof has been supported by nine short columns, 
 six of which remain, with very ornate capitals j and the interesting ribs of the groining 
 are decorated with zig-zag mouldings and a spiral ornament. The carved work is of 
 Caen stone. The chapel was originally " the Hermitage of St. James's" in the wall,
 
 CRYPTS. 303 
 
 a cell to the Abbey of Quorndon, in Leicestershire, and said to have been founded by 
 Henry III., but evidently upwards of a century earlier. The Chapel and its appur- 
 tenances were granted by Henry VIII. to William Lamb, who bequeathed and endowed 
 it at his death for the benefit of the Clothworkers' Company, of which be was a mem- 
 ber. (See LAMB'S COXDTTIT, p. 288.) 
 
 LEATHER-SELLERS' HALL CRYPT, at the east end of St. Helen's-place, Bishopsgate, 
 adjoins the church of St. Helen on the north side, and extends beneath the present 
 hall : it is boldly groined. In the wall which separated this Crypt from the church 
 were two ranges of small apertures, made in an oblique direction, so that the high altar 
 might be seen by those in the Crypt when mass was performing. The position of one set 
 of these openings (" The Nuns' Grating") is marked out within the present church by 
 a stone-canopied altar affixed to the wall. The Crypt has been engraved by J. T. Smith. 
 
 ST. MARTIN'S-LE-GRAND CETPT was laid open in clearing for the site of the new 
 General Fost-Office, in 1818, the area formerly occupied by the Church and Sanctuary 
 of St. Martin. There were then found two ranges of vaults, which had served as 
 cellars to the houses above ; one of these being the crypt of St. Martin's (taken down 
 in 154-7), and afterwards the cellar of a large wine-tavern, the " Queen's Head," This 
 was in the Pointed style of Edward III., and was most likely the work of William of 
 Wykeham. The second or westernmost range, which must have supported the nave, 
 was of earlier date, and was a square, vaulted chamber, divided by piers six feet 
 square : here were found a coin of Constantino, and a stone coffin containing a skeleton ; 
 and in digging somewhat lower down, Roman remains were met with in abundance. 
 In St. Martin's-le-Grand also, between Aldersgate and St. Ann's-lane end, was the large 
 tavern of the "Mourning Bush," whose vaulted cellars, as they remain from the Great 
 Fire of 1666, disclose the foundation-wall of Aldersgate, and a remarkably fine speci- 
 men of early brick arch -work. 
 
 ST. MARY ALDERMARY, Bow-lane. In 1835, upon the removal of some houses in 
 "Watling-street, at the east end of this church, a building, thought to be the Crypt of 
 the old church commenced by Sir Henry Keble in 1510, was brought to light. In 
 1851, in widening the thoroughfare by way of Cannon-street, just opposite St. 
 Swithin's Church and London Stone, an ancient vault or crypt, of considerable length, 
 was opened ; it had stone cross-springers, forming a Pointed arch, and was vaulted 
 with chalk. 
 
 MERCHANT TAILORS' HALL CRYPT was brought under notice during some repairs 
 in 1855, this being the crypt of the former Hall, destroyed by the Great Fire. The 
 kitchen, seen in the way to the Crypt, may be older than the time of the fire, probably 
 about the time of Henry VIII. On a conspicuous part of the wall is the excellent 
 motto " WASTE NOT, WANT NOT." There are some Pointed arches and windows, 
 and also two corbels, visible. The Crypt is at a considerable depth below the kitchen, 
 and has been used for some time past as a coal-cellar : the walls and 'filling in between 
 the groins are of chalk. The Company have preserved it. About seven feet from this 
 Crypt, and under the late open yard of the Hall, another old vault has been since 
 discovered : it is 7 feet wide, and quite full of garden-mould. The walls are of chalk- 
 rubble, and the voussoirs of Kentish rag. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL, ALDGATE. A subterranean passage is said to conduct from the 
 Tower to the ancient Chapel or Crypt of St. Michael at Aldgate, situated under the 
 house at the south-east corner of London Wall-street, hard by Aldgate pump. It has 
 some marks of the semi-Norman, or Transition style, but it is assigned to Prior 
 Norman, in 1108. The central clustered column is Norman ; the bosses remain 
 perfect, and contain roses and grotesque heads. A means of approach from the street 
 has existed ; and there are indications of two other passages, one said to have run to 
 Duke's-place, and the other to the Tower. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S CRYPT extends beneath the whole of the church, and, like the body of 
 the Cathedral, is divided into three avenues by massive pillars and arches j except the 
 portion beneath the area of the dome, it is well lighted and ventilated by windows
 
 30 i CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 opening into the churchyard. The north aisle is a place of sepulture for the parishioners 
 of St. Faith. (See CHURCHES, p. 113.) In the crypt of Old St. Paul's the stationers 
 of Paternoster-row had warehoused their stocks of books, which were destroyed in 
 the Great Fire. 
 
 ST. STEPHEN'S CBYPT, WESTMINSTER PALACE, also called " St. Mary's Chapel in 
 the Vaults," formed the basement of St. Stephen's Chapel, founded by King Stephen, 
 and rebuilt by Edward I. in 1292 : a roll of this date records the purchase of two 
 shiploads of chalk, besides burnt lime, ashes, and sand, for the foundation of the chapel, 
 thus proving it to have been raised on a concrete basis ; and how substantially is 
 proved by the Crypt remaining in excellent preservation, notwithstanding the super- 
 structure has been twice destroyed by fire in 1298 and 1834. Like other crypts, 
 this is of low proportions, but has no division by detached pillars ; the masses pro- 
 jecting inwards, and dividing window from window in short massive clusters, the 
 vault-ribs and all other members partaking of the same bold, thick character; whilst 
 the tracery of the windows is exquisitely beautiful. Strength, solidity, fine propor- 
 tions, and skilful execution, are the characteristics of this basement chapel" (Britton 
 and Brayley), which " is the last fragment in London that can be decidedly classed 
 in the first or progressive period of English architecture." (Weale's London?) This 
 Crypt was fitted up as the state dining-room of the Speaker of the House of Commons ; 
 it was much damaged in the great fire of 1834, but has been restored as a chapel for 
 the officers of the House of Commons; and during the works, on January 17, 1852, 
 the workmen discovered, beneath a window-seat, the embalmed body of an ecclesiastic, 
 without any coffin. The corpse lay with the feet towards the east (said to be an 
 unusual position for an ecclesiastic) ; it was wrapped in several folds of waxed cloth sewn 
 together with coarse twine ; its right hand, on which was probably the ring or 
 jewelled glove, was lying on the breast. Over the left arm was the pastoral staff* 
 a crook of oak, beautifully carved. On the feet were sandals, with leathern soles 
 sharply pointed. Upon removing the cere-cloth, the face proved to be in remarkable 
 preservation, with hair on the chin and upper lip. The remains are presumed to be 
 those of William Lyndwoode, Bishop of St. David's, who founded a chantry in St. 
 Stephen's Chapel, and died in 1446 ; and in the patent roll of 32 Henry VI. there is 
 a license to the bishop's executors for one or two chaplains to celebrate divine service 
 daily " for the soul of the aforesaid bishop, whose body lies buried in the said under- 
 chapel," &c. The relics were inspected by a deputation from the Society of Antiqua- 
 ries on Jan. 31, 1852 ; and a cast of the face having been taken for Her Majesty, the 
 remains were placed in an elm coffin, and buried in a grave in the north cloister of 
 Westminster Abbey ; the pastoral staff and sandals being sent to the British Museum. 
 
 TOWEB OP LONDON. The Crypt, or large range of vaults, beneath the White 
 Tower, is half underground, and now covered by modern brickwork. These vaults 
 were formerly occupied as prisons ; and among the inscriptions still remaining on a 
 wall of a subterranean cell is one cut by the unfortunate Bishop of Rochester, John 
 Fisher, who was beheaded for his opposition to the Reformation. 
 
 CUEIOSITT-SSOPS. 
 
 THE principal locality for dealers in Curiosities, including ancient furniture and 
 carvings, pictures, china and enamels, painted glass, metal-work, and church- 
 furniture, has long been in Wardour-street, Soho, and Oxford- street. Formerly it was 
 also noted for its book-stalls; but in the spreading taste for Curiosities within the 
 last quarter of a century, the book- stalls have mostly disappeared, and the Curiosity - 
 dealers here now number sixteen. Wardour-street is especially famous for old 
 furniture and carvings ; Hanway-street (formerly Hanway-yard, at the east end of 
 Oxford-street), being more exclusively celebrated for its china-dealers. There are also 
 good specimens of well-stocked Curiosity-shops towards the middle of the Strand. 
 These several shops are principally supplied from the Continent ; but it is a profitable 
 business to collect specimens from our provinces, where an Elizabethan bedstead has 
 been bought for five shillings, and sold for twice as many pounds in Wardour-street.
 
 CUSTOM-HOUSE (THE). 305 
 
 The marks on porcelain denote its age and manufacture ; but there is no such warrant 
 for genuine old furniture ; and rough work which has just left the carver's hands, and has 
 been pickled and charred, ante-dated, and even shattered, to imitate age, is often sold 
 for the ingenuity of the two preceding centuries. 
 
 The revival of the style of Louis XV. has done much to foster this false taste ; and our collectors, 
 "not content with ransacking every pawnbroker's shop in London and Paris for old buhl, old porce- 
 lain, and old plate, old tapestry and old frames, even set every manufacturer to work, and corrupt 
 the taste of every modern artist by the renovation of this wretched style." Hope's Hist. Architecture, 
 
 The dispersion of famed collections (as Strawberry Hill, in 1842 ; Mr. Beckford's, in 
 1845; Stowe, in 1849; and Bernal's in 1855;) is a benefit, direct and indirect, to 
 Curiosity-dealers. The taste for Medieval art in church-fittings and painted glass has 
 also greatly encouraged this trade, as well as the copying of olden works in new 
 materials. Certain auction-rooms are noted for the sale of Curiosities : as Christie 
 and Hanson's, King-street, St. James's, especially for pictures. Phillips's, New Bond- 
 street ; Foster, Pall-majl ; and Oxenhams', Oxford-street, are known for their sales of 
 articles of vertu, and collections, as well as " importation sales." Here the accumula- 
 tion of a lifetime is often distributed in a week or a day. (See CASTINGS IN WOOD, 
 pp. 78-81, and CHELSEA PORCELAIN, p. 94.) 
 
 The Fox public-house, in Wardour-street, was formerly kept by Sam House, " publican and repub- 
 lican," who commenced politician in 1763, and became conspicuous in the memorable Westminster 
 election-contest between Lord Lincoln and Mr. Fox, in 1780 : a picture, with Fox arm-in-arm with 
 House, was sold by Christie and Manson in 1845. In the window of Harrison, the pawnbroker, 95, 
 Wardour-street, the writer remembers to have seen the Ireland Shakspearean MSS. (" great and impu- 
 dent forgery," Dr. Parr) lying for sale upon a family Bible. With Harrison, who was a liberal man, 
 Sheridan was accustomed occasionally to deposit his valuables. 
 
 CUSTOM-HOUSE (THE), 
 
 T OWER THAMES-STREET, immediately east of Billingsgate-dock, was origi- 
 -U nally designed by David Laing : the foundations were laid in 1813, upon piles 
 driven into the old bed of the river, and extending eastward beyond the site of the 
 Custom-house, destroyed by fire Feb. 12, 1814, when the greater part of the trade 
 records were consumed. The northern elevation, fronting Thames-street, is pkin ; 
 but the south front towards the Thames has in the wings Ionic colonnades and a pro- 
 jecting centre, the attic of which was decorated with terra-cotta bas-relief figures of 
 the Arts and Sciences, Commerce and Industry ; and natives of the principal countries 
 of the globe, with emblems of their arts. The clock-dial, nine feet in diameter, was 
 supported by colossal figures of Industry and Plenty ; and the royal arms by Ocean 
 and Commerce. Unfortunately, the piling gave way; and in 1825 the re-centre was 
 taken down, the foundation relaid, and the Thames front erected as we now see it, by 
 Sir Robert Smirke. The expense was 180,00(W., which, added to the original expendi- 
 ture, 255,0002., made the total cost of the edifice nearly half a million, or two-thirds the 
 cost of St. Paul's Cathedral. The river facade is 488 feet in length, or nearly one 
 tenth of a mile. It is fronted by a noble esplanade, or quay ; but as the breadth of 
 this quay is not equal to the height of the Custom-house, its facade, which is of 
 Portland stone, is not seen to advantage from that point, but from London Bridge or 
 the middle of the river. 
 
 The interior contains, besides warehouses and cellars, about 170 apartments, 
 classified for contiguity and convenience of the several departments. In the Board- 
 room are portraits of George III. and George IV., the latter by Lawrence. The Long 
 Room, in the centre of the building, is probably the largest apartment of its kind in 
 Europe: its length is 190 feet, width 66 feet, and height between 30 and 40 feet; 
 but it is not so handsome as the " Long Room " taken down after the failure of the 
 foundation. The officers and clerks form three divisions : the inward department, with 
 its collectors, clerks of rates, clerks of ships' entries, computers of duties, receivers of 
 plantation duties, wine duties, &c. ; the outward department, with its cocket-writers, 
 &c. ; and the coast department. Here a Trinity-house officer sits for the collection of 
 lighthouse dues ; and here is a constant succession of ship-brokers and ship-owners, 
 and their clerks, and of skippers and wholesale merchants. Defoe relates Count 
 Tallard to have said, that nothing gave him so true and great an idea of the richness 
 and grandeur of England as seeing the multitude of payments made in a morning in 
 the Long Room ; since this was said, the Customs have increased tenfold. 
 
 X
 
 306 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 On the ground-floor is the Queen's Warehouse, with diagonal-ribbed roof. The 
 cellars in the basement form a groined crypt, and are fire-proof ; the walls are extraor- 
 dinarily thick ; and here are kept the wines and spirits seized by the officers of the 
 Custom-house. The condemned articles are disposed of quarterly by auctions or 
 " Custom-house Sales," at which the lots are not produced, but have been previously 
 viewed in the Queen's Warehouse and at the Docks. 
 
 The following is an average dally report of the principal articles passed through the Custom House, 
 and issued to the public for consumption ; and to arrive at a year's amount these figures must be multi- 
 plied in many instances 300 times : Anchovies, 1455 Ibs. ; arrow-root, 101 cwt. ; cattle, 172 ; cocoa and 
 coffee, 78,63-1 Ibs. ; corahs, 1042 pieces ; elephants' teeth, 395; gloves, 2237 pairs ; gum, 450 packages; 
 handkerchiefs, 791 pieces ; hemp, 587 bales ; hides, 780; honey, 17 cwt. ; horns, 1500 ; indigo, 274 chests ; 
 iron, 5760 bars ; isinglass, 6 cwt.; jute, 636 bales; leeches, 1801. value; lemon-pec), 20 pipes; litho- 
 graphic stones, 953; manufactures, 63522. value; marble, 12 blocks; molasses, 1176 cwt.; nutmegs, 
 414 Ibs. ; oil, 546 packages ; oil, scented, 810 Ibs. ; onions, 800 bushels ; pepper, 11,832 Ibs.; quicksilver, 
 40S9 bottles; rags, 67 bales; rice, 215 cwt.: sago, 70 cwt.; sheep, 65; silk, 382 bales; spelter, 638 
 cakes; spirits, 19,875 gallons; sugar, 11,151 cwt.; tallow, 327 cwt.; tea, 89,742 Ibs.; timber, 1900 
 loads; tobacco, 14,143 Ibs.; whale-fins, 279 bundles; wine, 10,765 gallons; wool, 354 bales. Ware- 
 housed in one day : anchovies, 250 barrels ; butter, 539 casks ; coffee, 2650 bags ; cork, 19 bales ; hams, 
 600; manufactures, 168 packages ; marble mortars, 50; mats, 1000; raisins, 750 drums; rice, 581 bags; 
 rum, 111 casks ; spirits, 554 cases or casks ; sugar, 13-15 packages; tallow, 191 packages; tobacco, 000 
 packages ; tin, 1075 slabs ; timber, 12,635 deals and pieces ; wine, 896 cases or casks. 
 
 The present is the fifth Custom -house built nearly upon the same site. The first 
 was erected by John Churchman, Sheriff of London in 1385. (Stoio.) The second \vas 
 built in the reign of Elizabeth, and appears in the 1543 View of London with several 
 high-pitched gables and a water-gate : it was burnt in the Great Fire of 166G. It 
 was rebuilt by Wren, at a cost of 10,OOOZ. ; and this third House was consumed by 
 fire in 1718, and was the only one of Wren's buildings that in his long life was destroyed. 
 Wren's Custom-house was replaced by Bipley, who introduced the " Long Room," and' 
 embellished the river front with Ionic columns, pediments, and a Tuscan colonnade : 
 this fourth House was burnt in 1814. 
 
 The taxes levied on imported and exported commodities having been repeatedly altered, to meet 
 the necessities of the State, or serve political purposes, their amount at different periods is not of 
 tself a correct test of the increase of trade. In 1613, the date of one of the earliest notices preserved, 
 the Customs duties collected in London amounted to 109,5722., being nearly thrice as much as was col- 
 lected in all the rest of the kingdom (England), the whole Customs duties then amounting to 143,0752. 
 There are now no heaps of money at the Custom-house such as excited Tallard's admiration. The 
 duties are paid into the Receiver-General's Office in the Custom-house, and almost invariably in paper, 
 so that only very small sums of metallic money pass in collecting the twenty-two millions. 
 
 The value of the Exports and Imports at the Port of London in 1700 was about 10,000,0002. ; in 1791 
 the amount increased to 31,000,0002. London is distinguished among the ports of the world by the 
 enormous quantity and value of its imports, rather than of its exports, yet the value of the exports 
 alone reached, in 1864, to above 36,000,0002. The gross Customs revenue of the United Kingdom irf 
 1864 was 22,498,2102., of which London contributed 11,491,4122. Thus, the London Customs Duties 
 are nearly double the amount levied at all the other ports of England put together, and more than 
 double the amount taken in all Scotland and Ireland. 
 
 DAGTTEEEEOTYPE (THE). 
 
 rFHE first experiment made in England with the Daguerreotype was exhibited by M. 
 J- St. Croix, on Friday, September 13, 1839, at No. 7, Piccadilly, nearly opposite 
 the southern Circus of Regent-street ; when the picture produced was a beautiful minia- 
 ture representation of the houses, pathway, sky, &c., resembling an exquisite mezzotint. 
 M. St. Croix subsequently removed to the Argyll Rooms, Regent -street, where his 
 experimental results became a scientific exhibition. One of the earliest operators was 
 Mr. Goddard. The discovery was patented by Mr. Miles Berry, who sold the first 
 licence to M. Claudet for 100Z. or 2002". a-year ; and in twelve months after disposed 
 of the patent to Dr. Beard, who, however, did not take a Daguerreotype portrait until 
 after Dr. Draper had sent from New York a portrait to the Editor of the Philosophical 
 Magazine, with a paper on the subject. 
 
 With reference to the conditions of a London atmosphere, as regards its influence 
 upon Daguerreotypic or Photographic processes, there are some very peculiar pheno- 
 mena ; for the following details of which we are indebted to Mr. Robert Hunt, F.R.S., 
 the author of many valuable researches in Photography. 
 
 The yellow haze which not unfrequcntly prevails, even when there is no actual fog over the town 
 itself, is fatal to all chemical change. This haze is, without doubt, an accumulation, at a considerable 
 elevation, of the carbonaceous matter from the coal-fires, &c. Although a day may appear moderately 
 clear, if the sun assume a red or orange colour, it will be almost impossible to obtain a good Daguerr^o- 
 type. Notwithstanding in some of the days of spring our photographers obtain very fine portraits
 
 DEAF AND DUMB ASYLUM. DIORAMA AND 008MOBAMA. 307 
 
 or views, it must be evident to all who examine an extensive series of Daguerreotypes, that those 
 which are obtained in Paris and New York are very much more intense than those which are gene- 
 rally procured in London. This is mainly dependent upon the different amounts and kinds of smoke 
 diffused through the atmospheres respectively of these cities. At the same time, there is no doubt 
 the peculiarly humid character of the English climate interferes with the free passage of those solar 
 rays which are active in producing photographic change. It was observed by Sir John Herschel, when 
 he resided at Slough, that a sudden change of wind to the east almost immediately checked his photo- 
 graphic experiments at that place, by bringing over it the yellow atmosphere of London : this is called 
 by the Berkshire farmers blight, from their imagining that smut and other diseases in grain are pro- 
 duced by it. 
 
 It is a curious circumstance, that the summer months, June, July, and August, notwithstanding the 
 increase of light, are not favourable to the Daguerreotype. This arises from the fact, now clearly de- 
 monstrable, that the luminous powers of the sunbeam are in antagonism to the chemical radiations, 
 and as the one increases, the other diminishes. This may be imitated by a pale yellow glass, which, 
 although it obstructs no light completely, cuts off the chemical rays, and entirely prevents any photo- 
 graphic change taking place. 
 
 DEAF AND DUMB ASYLUM. 
 
 THE first Asylum or School established in England for the Deaf and Dumb was 
 opened in 1792, in Fort-place, Bermondsey, under the auspices of the Rev. John 
 Townsend, of Jamaica-row Chapel ; and of the Rev. H. Cox Mason, then curate of 
 Bermondsey. The teacher was Joseph Watson, LL.D., who held the situation 
 upwards of thirty-seven years, and taught upwards of 1000 pupils, who were thus able 
 to read articulately, and to write and cipher. This tuition was commenced with six 
 pupils only. In 1807 the first stone of a new building was laid in the Old Kent-road, 
 whither the establishment was removed October 5, 1809 ; when the Society celebrated 
 the event by a public thanksgiving at the church of St. Mary Magdalen, Bermondsey, 
 the Rev. C. Crowther preaching the sermon. A memorial bust of the Rev. Mr. 
 Townsend is placed in the committee-room. The pupils, male and female, are such 
 children only as are deaf and dumb, not being deficient in intellect. Other children 
 are admitted on payment of 201. anually for board ; and private pupils are also received. 
 The term of each pupil's stay is five years : they are taught to read, write, draw, and 
 cipher ; to speak by signs, and in many instances to articulate so as to be clearly 
 understood. They are wholly clothed and maintained by the charity, are instructed 
 in working trades, and in some cases apprentice-fees are given. The Asylum is amply 
 supported by the wealthy ; and besides its annual receipts from subscriptions, donations, 
 and legacies, &c., it has a funded stock. The pupils are elected half-yearly, without 
 reference to locality, sect, or persuasion. The importance of this Asylum is attested 
 by the fact that in 1833, in 20 families of 159 children, 90 were deaf and dumb. 
 
 There is also at 26, Red-lion-square, Bloomsbury, an Institution for the Employment, 
 Relief, and Religious Instruction of the Adult Deaf and Dumb ; who are taught 
 shoemaking, tailoring, dressmaking, shoebinding, fancy-work, &c., the produce of their 
 labour being added to the funds of the Society. In the chapel the Scriptures are 
 expounded, and church services regularly held, at which the deaf and dumb are ready 
 and interested attendants. 
 
 DIORAMA AND COSMOEAMA. 
 
 THE Diorama, on the eastern side of Park-square, Regent's-park, was exhibited in 
 Paris long before it was brought to London, by its originators, MM. Bouton and 
 Daguerre; the latter, the inventor of the Daguerreotype, died 1851. The exhibition- 
 house, with the theatre in the rear, was designed by Morgan and Pugin : the spectatory 
 had a circular ceiling, with transparent medallion portraits; the whole was built in 
 four months, and cost 10,000?. 
 
 The Diorama consisted of two pictures, eighty feet in length and forty feet in height, 
 painted in solid and in transparency, arranged so as to exhibit changes of light and 
 shade, and a variety of natural phenomena ; the spectators being kept in comparative 
 darkness, while the picture received a concentrated light from a ground-glass roof. 
 The contrivance was partly optical, partly mechanical ; and consisted in placing the pic- 
 tures within the building so constructed, that the saloon containing the spectators 
 revolved at intervals, and brought in succession the two distinct scenes into the field of 
 view, without the necessity of the spectators removing from then? seats ; while the 
 scenery itself remained stationary, and the light was distributed by transparent and 
 
 z: 2
 
 ft 
 
 308 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 movable blinds some placed behind the picture, for intercepting and changing the 
 colour of the rays of light, which passed through the semi-transparent parts. Similar 
 blinds, above and in front of the picture were movable by cords, so as to distribute or 
 direct the rays of light. The revolving motion given to the saloon was an arc of about 
 73 ; and while the spectators were thus passing round, no person was permitted to go 
 in or out. The revolution of the saloon was effected by means of a sector, or portion 
 of a wheel, with teeth which worked in a series of wheels and pinions ; one man, by turn- 
 ing a winch, moved the whole. The space between the saloon and each of the two 
 pictures was occupied on either side by a partition, forming a kind of avenue, propor- 
 tioned in width to the size of the picture. Without such a precaution, the eye of the 
 spectator, being thirty or forty feet distant from the canvas, would, by anything 
 intervening, have been estranged from the object. 
 
 The combination of transparent, semi- transparent, and opaque colouring, still further 
 assisted by the power of varying both the effects and the degree of light and shade, 
 rendered the Diorama the most perfect scenic representation of nature ; and adapted 
 it peculiarly for moonlight subjects, or for showing such accidents in landscape as 
 sudden gleams of sunshine or lightning. It was also unrivalled for representing archi- 
 tecture, particularly interiors, as powerful relief might be obtained without that ex- 
 aggeration in the shadows which is almost inevitable in every other mode of painting. 
 The interior of Canterbury Cathedral, the first picture exhibited, in 1823, was a triumph 
 of this class ; and the companion picture, the Valley of Sarnen, equally admirable in 
 atmospheric effects. In one day (Easter Monday, 1824), the receipts exceeded 2001. 
 
 In viewing the Diorama, the spectator was placed, as it were, at the extremity of 
 the scene, and thus had a view across or through it. Hence the inventor of the term 
 compounded it of the Greek preposition dia, through, and orama, scene ; though, from 
 there being two paintings under the same roof in the building in the Regent's-park, it 
 is supposed the term was from dis, twice, and orama ; but if several paintings of the 
 same kind were exhibited, each would be a Diorama. (Slack.) 
 
 Although the Regent's-park Diorama was artistically successful, it was not commer- 
 cially so. In September, 1848, the building and ground in the rear, with the ma- 
 chinery and pictures, was sold for 6750Z. ; again, in June, 1849, for 48001. ; and the 
 property, with sixteen pictures, rolled on large cylinders, was next sold for 3000/. 
 The building has since been converted into a Chapel for the Baptist denomination at 
 the expense of Sir Morton Peto, Bart. 
 
 Dioramas have also been painted for our theatres by Stanfield and Roberts, the Grieves, and other 
 artists. Other Dioramic exhibitions have been opened in the metropolis. In 1828, one was exhibited 
 at the Queen's Bazaar, Oxford- street ; in 1829, the picture was "The Destruction of York-Minster by 
 Fire," during the exhibition of which, May 28, the scenery took fire, and the premises were entirely 
 burnt. In 1841, there was exhibited at the Bazaar, St. James's-street, a Diorama, of five large scenes, 
 of the second funeral of Napoleon; but, though most effectively painted by members of" The Board 
 of Arts for the Ceremony," and accompanied by funeral music by Auber, the spectacle excited little 
 interest. At Easter, 1849, was opened the Gallery of Illustration, in the large saloon of the late residence 
 of Mr. Nash, the architect, No. 14, Begent-street, a series of thirty-one Dioramic pictures of the Over- 
 land Mail Route from SouthaMfKn to Calcutta ; the general scenery painted by T. Grieve and W. 
 Telbin, human figures by John Absolon, and animals by J. F. Herring and H. Weir : in picturesqueness, 
 aerial effect, characteristic grouping, variety of incident, richness of colour, and atmosphere skilfully 
 varied with the several countries, this Diorama has, perhaps, scarcely been equalled : it was exhibited 
 between 1600 and 1700 times, and visited by upwards of 250,000 persons. 
 
 THE COSMORAMA, though named from the Greek (Kosmos, world ; and orama, 
 view, because of the great variety of views), is but an enlargement of the street peep- 
 show ; the difference not being in the construction of the apparatus, but in the quality 
 of the pictures exhibited. In the common shows, coarsely-coloured prints are suffi- 
 ciently good; in the Cosmorama a moderately good oil-painting is employed. The 
 pictures are placed beyond what appear like common windows, but of which the panes 
 are really large convex lenses, fitted to correct the errors of appearance which the 
 nearness of the pictures would else produce. The optical part of the exhibition is thus 
 complete ; but as the frame of the picture would be seen, and thus the illusion be 
 destroyed, it is necessary to place between the lens and the view a square wooden 
 frame, which, being painted black, prevents the rays of light passing beyond a certain 
 line, according to its distance from the eye : on looking through the lens, the picture 
 is seen as if through an opening, which adds very much to the effect. Upon the top
 
 DOCKS. 309 
 
 of the frame is a lamp, which illuminates the picture, while all extraneous light is care- 
 fully excluded by the lamp being in a box, open in front and top. 
 
 A Cosmorama was long shown at Nos. 207 and 209, Regent-street, where the most 
 effective scenes were views of cities and public buildings. Cosmoramas have also formed 
 part of other exhibitions. At the Lowther Bazaar, 35, Strand, the " Magic Cave" 
 (cosmoramic pictures) realized 1500/. per annum, at 6d. for each admission. 
 
 DOCKS. 
 
 f"PHE Docks of London are entirely the growth of the present century, and the result 
 J- of the vast increase in the commerce of the preceding 25 years, which was as great 
 as in the first 70 years of the century : a hundred years since, London had not one- 
 twentieth of its present trade. Hitherto, merchandize was kept afloat in barges, from 
 want of room to discharge it at the legal quays, when the plunder was frightful 
 lightermen, watermen, labourers, the crews of ships, the mates and officers, and the 
 revenue officers, combining in this nefarious system, which neither the police nor the 
 terrors of Execution Dock could repress. At length, in 1789, Mr. Perry, a shipbuilder, 
 constructed at Blackwall the Brunswick Dock, to contain 28 East Indiamen and 50 or 
 60 smaller ships; and in ten years after, the construction of public Docks was 
 commenced. 
 
 The district north and south of the Thames, from the Tower to Blackwall, is the 
 most remarkable portion of London. Here have been formed for the reception, dis- 
 charge, and loading of vessels, on the north, St. Katharine's Docks, the London Docks, 
 the West-India Docks, the East-India Docks, the Victoria Docks; and on the south 
 the Grand Surrey Docks and the Commercial Docks ; these comprise hundreds of acres 
 of water, surrounded by miles of walls, and sheltering thousands of ships ; here have 
 been spent, not simply thousands, but millions of pounds, and all this has been effected 
 in about half a century. Before there were any Docks, an East Indiaman of 800 tons 
 was not usually delivered of her cargo in less than a month, and then the goods had to 
 be taken in lighters from Blackwall nearly to London Bridge. For the delivery of a 
 ship of 350 tons, not 70 years ago, eight days were necessary in summer and fourteen 
 in winter : now, a ship of 500 tons may be discharged without any difficulty in two or 
 three days. The mass of shipping, the vastness of the many-storied warehouses, and 
 the heaps of merchandize from every region of the globe, justify the glory of London 
 as " the great emporium of nations," and " the metropolis of the most intelligent and 
 wealthy empire the sun ever shone upon, and of which the boast is, as of Spain of old, 
 that upon its dominions the sun never sets." 
 
 These several Docks have been constructed at the expense of Joint-stock Companies, 
 and have been moderately profitable to their projectors, but more advantageous to the 
 Port of London. 
 
 COMMERCIAL DOCKS, Rotherhithe, on the south bank of the Thames, are, upon the 
 authority of Stow, said to include the commencement of Canute's trench, cut early in 
 the llth century from thence to Battersea; and into which the river was diverted 
 when the first stone bridge across the Thames was built, temp. King John. The 
 present Commercial Docks, however, originated in the " Howland Great Wet Dock," 
 which existed in 1660, and extended about 10 acres in Queen Anne's time, larger than 
 the famous basin of Dunkirk. It was then engaged for the Greenland whale-fishery 
 vessels, next for the Baltic trade in timber, deals, tar, corn, &c. ; and in 1809 was 
 opened as the Commercial Docks. One of the timber ponds covers 7 acres, and will 
 float above 6000 boards. The Docks, seven in number, extend over 150 acres ; the 
 ponds will float 50,000 loads of timber, and the yards hold 4,000,000 deals. The cargo 
 of one timber ship would cover 32 acres, were the deals placed side by side. 
 
 EAST INDIA DOCKS, Blackwall, lie below the West India Docks, and immediately 
 adjoin the Blackwall Railway and Brunswick Wharf. These Docks, designed by Ralph 
 Walker, C.E., were originally constructed for the East India Company, and completed 
 in 1808. Since the opening of the trade to India, they have been the property of the 
 East and West India Company. Their water area is 30 acres, and their great depth 
 (24 feet) accommodates vessels of very large size ; they have a cast-iron wharf, 750 
 feet in length, in which are more than 900 tons of metal.
 
 310 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 GRAND SURREY DOCKS, on the south bank of the Thames : new works, in 1858, 
 cost upwards of 100,000/. 
 
 ST. KATHARINE'S DOCKS, just below the Tower, were planned by Telford, and con- 
 structed by Hardwick : in clearing the ground, the fine old church and other remains 
 of the Hospital of St. Katharine (founded 1148 by Matilda of Boulogne, wife of King 
 Stephen), with 1250 houses and tenements, inhabited by 11,300 persons, were pur- 
 chased and pulled down : the Hospital and Church were rebuilt in the Regent's-park. 
 (See CHURCHES, p. 166.) The Docks were commenced May 3, 1827, and upwards of 
 2500 men worked at them till their opening, Oct. 25, 1828 ; a labour of unexampled 
 rapidity. The excavated earth was carried by water to Millbank, and there used to fill 
 up the reservoirs of the Chelsea Water-works, upon which has been built a new town 
 south of Pimlico. The cost of St. Katharine's Docks was 1,700,000?. ; or at the 
 rate of 195,640/. per acre. The lofty walls constitute it a place of " special security," 
 and surround 23 acres, of which 11 acres are water, and will accommodate 120 ships, 
 besides barges and other craft. The lock from the Thames is crossed by a vast iron 
 swing-bridge 23 feet wide : it can be filled or emptied by a steam-engine of 200-horse 
 power, and 14 feet depth can be made by the gate-paddles in six minutes. This lock is 
 sunk so deep that ships of 700 tons burden may enter at any time of the tide ; and the 
 depth of water at spring-tides is 28 feet, or equal to that in any other dock of London : 
 the machinery of the gates, by Bramah, is very fine. At these Docks was first pro- 
 vided accommodation for landing and embarking passengers without using small 
 wherries. The frontage of the quays is paved with cast-iron. The warehouses, five 
 and six stories high, are supported on cast-iron columns, 3 feet 9 inches diameter ; they 
 have massive granite stairs, huge machinery over the wells or shafts, and powerful 
 cranes on the quays, so that goods can be taken out at once into the warehouses from 
 the ships, and in one-fifth of the time required in the earlier-constructed docks. A 
 ship of 250 tons burden can be discharged at St. Katharine's in twelve hours, and one 
 of 500 tons in two or three days. One of the cranes cost about 20001., is worked by 
 ten or twelve men, and will raise from 30 to 40 tons. The vaults below for wine and 
 spirits have crypt-like arches : " lights are distributed to the travellers who pre- 
 pare to visit these cellars, as if they were setting out to visit the catacombs of Naples 
 or Rome." (Baron Dupin.) From the vaultings hang vinous fungi, like dark woolly 
 clouds, light as gossamer, and a yard or more in length, a piece of which applied to 
 name will burn like tinder ; in the spirit-vaults the Davy safety -lamp is used. 
 
 LONDON DOCKS lie immediately below St. Katharine's Docks, and were opened in 
 1805 ; John Rennie, engineer. They comprise 90 acres : 35 acres of water, and 
 12,980 feet of quay and jetty frontage ; with three entrances from the Thames Her- 
 mitage, Wapping, and Shadwell, where the depth of water at spring-tides is 27 feet. 
 The western Dock comprises 20 acres, the eastern 7 acres, and the Wapping Basin 3 
 acres, besides a small dock exclusively for ships laden with tobacco. The two large 
 Docks afford water-room for 302 sail of vessels, exclusive of lighters ; warehouse-room 
 for 220,000 tons of goods ; and vault-room for 80,000 pipes of wine and spirits. The 
 superficial area of the vault-room is 890,545 feet ; of the warehouse-room, 1,402,115 
 feet. The enclosing walls cost 65,OOOZ. The capital of the Company is four millions 
 of money. Six weeks are allowed for unloading, beyond which period a farthing per 
 ton is charged for the first two weeks, and then a halfpenny per week per ton. In 
 1839 a magnificent jetty and sheds cost 60,OOOZ. ; and in the previous twelve years a 
 million of money had been expended in extensions and improvements. In 1858 two 
 new locks were constructed to admit the immense vessels now built : each has 28 feet 
 depth of water, and they are probably the most perfect works of their kind yet erected ; 
 engineers, Messrs. Rendell. 
 
 In these Docks are especially warehoused wine, wool, spices, tea, ivory, drugs, 
 tobacco, sugars, dye-stuffs, imported metals, and other articles. These, except the 
 wine, tea, spices, and ivory, may be inspected by an order from the Secretary j for the 
 wine a " tasting order" must be obtained from the owners. The shipping and people 
 at work may be seen without any order. Rummage sales are those by order of the 
 Dock Company, for payment of charges, pursuant to Act 9 Geo. IV., cap. 116, sec. 106. 
 
 . Of the Wine-vaults, one alone, formerly 7 acres, now extends under Gravel-lane,
 
 DOCKS. 
 
 311 
 
 and contains upwards of 12 acres : above is the mixing-house, the largest vat containing 
 23,250 gallons. The Wool-floors were considerably enlarged and glass-roofed in 1850 : 
 the Lnnual importation is 130,000 bales ; value, 2,600,0002. A vast Tea-warehouse 
 was completed in 1845; cost, 100,000^.; stowage for 120,000 chests of tea. To inspect 
 the Ivory-warehouse requires a special order : here lie heaps of elephant and rhi- 
 noceros tusks, the ivory weapons of sword-fish, &c. 
 
 The great Tobacco-warehouse, "the Queen's," is rented by Government for 
 H,000l. per annum : it is five acres in extent, and is covered by a skilfully iron-framed 
 rof, supported by slender columns: it will contain 24,000 hogsheads of tobacco, value 
 f,800,000. ; the huge casks are piled two in height, intersected by passages and 
 alleys, each several hundred feet long. There is another warehouse for finer tobacco; 
 and a cigar-floor, in which are frequently 1500 chests of cigars, value 150,OOOZ. 
 
 Near the north-east corner of the Queen's Warehouse, a guide-post, inscribed " To 
 the Kiln," directs you to " the Queen's Pipe," or chimney of the furnace ; on the door of 
 the latter and of the room are painted the crown-royal and V.R. In this kiln are burnt 
 all such goods as do not fetch the amount of their duties and the Customs' charges : tea. 
 having once set the chimney of the kiln on fire, is rarely burnt; and the wine and 
 spirits are emptied into the Docks. The huge mass of fire in the furnace is fed night 
 and day with condemned goods : on one occasion, 900 Austrian mutton-hams were 
 burnt ; on another, 45,000 pairs of French gloves ; and silks and satins, tobacco and 
 cigars, are here consumed in vast quantities : the ashes being sold by the ton as 
 manure, for killing insects, and to soap-boilers and chemical manufacturers. Nails 
 and other pieces of iron, sifted from the ashes, are prized for their toughness in 
 making gun-barrels ; gold and silver, the remains of plate, watches, and jewellery 
 thrown into the furnace, are also found in the ashes. 
 
 Lastly, in the London Docks in brisk times are employed nearly 3000 men : and this 
 is one of the few places in the metropolis where men can get employment without 
 either character or recommendation. At the Dock-gates, at half-past seven in the 
 morning, " may be seen congregated swarms of men, of all grades, looks, and kinds. 
 There are decayed and bankrupt master-butchers, master-bakers, publicans, grocers, 
 old soldiers, old sailors, Polish refugees, broken-down gentlemen, discharged lawyers' - 
 clerks, suspended government-clerks, almsmen, pensioners, servants, thieves indeed, 
 every one who wants a loaf and is willing to work for it." Henry Mayliew. 
 
 The two Companies of the St. Katharine's Docks and the London Docks are now 
 amalgamated, and have offices in Leadenhall-street, built in 1866. 
 
 MILLWALL CANAL AND GRAVING DOCKS, engineer, Wilson, extend across the Isle of 
 Dogs, from east to west, with a branch projecting at right angles from the centre. 
 
 VICTORIA LONDON DOCKS, the, in the Plaistow Marshes, Bidder, engineer, opened 
 1855, provide a much larger area of water, and will admit larger vessels, than the 
 other London Docks. The lock-gates, cranes, and capstans, are all worked by 
 hydraulic power. The first estimate of cost was a million of money. The basin 
 covers 90 acres, and contains more than a mile of quay and wharfage : contractors, 
 Peto, Betts, and Brassey. In the course of the works, various ancient British and 
 Roman coins were discovered, some Roman urns, a circular shield of tin, bones of 
 deer and some other animals. The ground, which was excavated, consisted of the 
 deposit of the Thames, which, like a huge lake or sea, formerly covered all the now 
 green marshes of Essex. The Victoria Docks, from the peculiarity of position, cost 
 less, it is said, than any hitherto formed. 
 
 
 
 Area of 
 
 
 Names of Docks. 
 
 Capital. 
 
 Water 
 Accom- 
 
 Cost 
 per acre. 
 
 
 
 modation. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Acres. 
 
 
 
 St Katharine's 
 
 2,152,800 
 
 11 
 
 195,640 
 
 London Docks 
 
 3,939,310 
 
 23 
 
 140,654 
 
 East and West India Docks including Canal and 
 
 
 
 
 Pond 
 
 2,003,000 
 
 112 
 
 17,834 
 
 Victoria Docks, estimate for Works and Land, to 
 
 
 
 
 
 430,000 
 
 00 
 
 5,000 
 
 
 

 
 312 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 WEST INDIA DOCKS, the, lie between Limehouse and Blackwall, and their long lines 
 of warehouses, and lofty wall, 5 feet thick, are well seen from the Blackwall Railway. 
 These Docks were designed by Ralph Walker, C.E., as " the Merchants' Place." in 
 1799, and were commenced 1800, when the Rt. Hon. William Pitt laid the first stone ; 
 they were opened 1802. Their extent is (including the canal, made to avoid the 
 bend of the river at the Isle of Dogs) 295 acres ; this canal is nearly three-quarters of 
 a mile long, with lock-gates, 45 feet wide, and is used as a dock for timber-ships. Tne 
 northern or Import Dock will hold 250 vessels of 300 tons each : when original!/ 
 opened, it took ten hours to fill, 24 feet deep, though the water was admitted at 800 
 gallons per second. The southern or Export Dock will hold 1 95 vessels. Here the ship is 
 seen to the greatest advantage, fresh -painted, standing-rigging up, colour-flying, &c. ; 
 whereas in the Import Dock, the vessels, though more picturesque, have their rigging 
 down and loose, the sides whitened by the sea, and contrasting with outward-bound 
 vessels. The warehouses will contain 180,000 tons of merchandize ; and there have 
 been at one time, on the quays and in the sheds, vaults, and warehouses, colonial 
 produce worth 20,000,OOOZ. sterling ; comprising 148,563 casks of sugar, 70,875 barrels 
 and 433,648 bags of coffee, 35,158 pipes of rum and Madeira, 14,000 logs of mahogany, 
 and 21,000 tons of logwood, &c. In the wood-sheds are enormous quantities of 
 mahogany, ebony, rosewood, &c., logs of which, four or five tons weight, are lifted with 
 locomotive cranes, by four or five men. For twenty years from their construction, 
 these Docks were compulsorily frequented by all West India ships trading to the 
 Port of London, when the maximum revenues amounted to 449, 421/., in 1813 ; since 
 the expiry of this privilege, and the depreciation of the West India trade, the 
 revenues have much declined. The Docks are now used by every kind of shipping, and 
 belong to the East and West India Dock Company. 
 
 DOCTORS' COMMONS, 
 
 A COLLEGE of Doctors of Civil Law, and for the study and practice of the Civil 
 Law, is situated in Great Knight-rider-street, south of St. Paul's Churchyard ; in 
 the south-west corner of which is an arched gateway, and within it the Lodge of 
 Porters to direct strangers to "the Commons." The civilians and canonists were 
 originally lodged in a house, subsequently the Queen's Head tavern, in Paternoster- 
 row ; whence they removed to a house purchased for them in Elizabeth's reign by 
 Dr. Harvey, Dean of the Arches ; here they " were living (for diet and lodging) in a 
 collegiate manner, and commoning together," whence the college was named Doctors' 
 Commons : and the doctors still dine together on every court-day. This house was 
 destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666 ; when the College removed to Exeter House, 
 Strand, till the rebuilding of the edifice in Great Knight-rider-street, in 1672, as we 
 now see it, with a side entrance on Benet's-hill, nearly opposite Heralds' College. 
 The buildings are of brick, and consist of two quadrangles, chiefly occupied by the 
 Doctors; a hall for the hearing of causes, &c. 
 
 In Doctors' Commons are the Court of Arches, named from having been formerly 
 kept in Bow Church, Cheapside, originally built upon arches (see CHTJECHES, p. 183), 
 and the supreme ecclesiastical court of the whole province ; the Probate Court, which 
 has supplanted the Prerogative Court ; the Consistory Court of the Bishop of London ; 
 and the High Court of Admiralty : all these courts hold, or held, their sittings in the 
 College Mall, the walls of which above the wainscot are covered with the richly- 
 emblazoned coats of arms of all the doctors for a century or two past. 
 
 The COURT of AECHES has jurisdiction over thirteen parishes or peculiars, which form 
 a deanery exempt from the Bishop of London, and attached to the Archbishop of 
 Canterbury : hence the judge is named Dean of the Arches. The business included, 
 in Chaucer's time, and down nearly to the present, cases 
 
 " Of defamation and avouterie, 
 Of church reves and of testaments, 
 Of contracts and lack of sacraments, 
 Of usury and simony also;" 
 
 beside those of sacrilege, blasphemy, apostacy from Christianity, adultery, partial or 
 entire divorce, &c. ; also, brawling and smiting in churches or vestries : but the
 
 DOCTORS' COMMONS. 313 
 
 majority of cases were matrimonial, and all these are now transferred to the Divorce 
 Court, and Wills to the Probate Court. 
 
 The DIVOECE COUBT, established by the 20th and 21st Victorias, cap. 85, 
 whether sitting in the City of London or Westminster, is now the only Court of 
 original jurisdiction for the trial of causes matrimonial, and for breaking the marriage 
 tie. There may be from this court an appeal to the House of Lords in decrees of 
 absolute divorce ; otherwise the House of Lords only hears questions of divorce, as 
 one of the members of the Legislature, which has to pass a special Act of Parliament 
 to effect a divorce. 
 
 In the PREROGATIVE COTJRT Wills (until the establishment of the COURT OF PROBATE 
 by the 20th and 21st Victoria;, cap. 77) were proved, and all administrations granted, 
 that were the prerogative of the Archbishop of Canterbury. 
 
 There are several Registries in Doctors' Commons, under the jurisdiction of the 
 Archbishop of Canterbury and the Bishops. Some of the very old documents connected 
 with them are deposited for security in St. Paul's Cathedral and Lambeth Palace. At 
 the Bishop of London's llegistry, and the Registry for the Commission of Surrey, 
 Wills (until the 20 and 21 Viet., cap. 77, the Probate Act) were proved for the respective 
 dioceses, and Marriage Licenses are granted. At the Vicar- General's Office and the 
 Faculty Office, Marriage Licenses are granted for any part of England. The Faculty 
 Office also grant Faculties to notaries public, and dispensations to the clergy ; and for- 
 merly granted privilege to eat flesh upon prohibited days. At the Vicar-General's 
 Office, records are kept of the confirmation and consecration of bishops. 
 
 Marriage Licenses, special and general, if to be solemnized according to the laws of the Established 
 Church, are procured upon personal application to a proctor by one of the parties : a residence of fifteen 
 days is necessary by either party in the parish or district where the marriage is to be performed. The 
 expense of an ordinary license is 21. 12s. 6d. ; but if either is a minor, 10. fid. further charge ; and the 
 party appearing swears he has obtained the consent of the proper person having authority in law to 
 give it : there is no necessity for either parents or minor to attend. A Special License for Marriage is 
 issued after a fiat or consent has been obtained irom the archbishop ; and is granted only to persons of 
 rank, judges, and Members of Parliament, the archbishop having ajight to exercise his own discretion. 
 The expense of a Special License is usually twenty-eight guineas. This gives privilege to marry at any 
 time or place, in private residence, or at any church or chapel situate in England ; but the ceremony 
 must be performed by a priest in holy orders, and of the Established Church. With the marriages of 
 Dissenters, including Roman Catholics, Jews, and Quakers, the Commons has nothing to do, their 
 licenses being obtainable of the Superintendent- Registrar. A Divorce when sought was carried through 
 one of the courts in the profession (according to the diocese), and was conducted by a proctor ; the evidence 
 of witnesses was taken privately before an examiner of the court, and neither the husband, wife, nor any 
 of the witnesses had to appear personally in court. This is now all altered in the DIVOECB COUBT. 
 
 The HIGH COURT OF ADMIRALTY consists of the Instance Court and the Prize Court. 
 The Instance Court has a criminal and civil jurisdiction: to the former belong piracy 
 and other indictable offences on the high seas, which are now tried at the Old Bailey ; 
 to the latter, suits arising from ships running foul of each other, disputes about sea- 
 men's wages, bottomry, and salvage. The Prize Court applies to naval captures in 
 war, proceeds of captured slave-vessels, &c. A silver oar is carried before the judge as 
 an emblem of his office. The business is very onerous, as in embargoes and the pro- 
 visional detention of vessels, when incautious decision might involve the country in 
 war ; the right of search is another weighty question. Lord Stowell, the judge, in one 
 year (1806) pronounced 2206 decrees. The Admiralty Registry is in Paul's Bakehouse- 
 court, Doctors' Commons, where are kept records of prizes adjudicated. The practi- 
 tioners in this Court are advocates (DD.C.L.) or counsel, and proctors or solicitors. 
 The judge and advocates wear in court, if of Oxford, scarlet robes and hoods lined with 
 taffety ; and if of Cambridge, white minever and round black velvet caps. The proctors 
 wear black robes and hoods lined with fur. 
 
 The College has a good library in civil law and history, bequeathed by an ancestor of 
 Sir John Gibson, judge of the Prerogative Court; and every bishop at his consecration 
 makes a present of books. 
 
 The PRINCIPAL REGISTRY of the COURT OF PROBATE is a most interesting esta- 
 blishment. Wills are always to be found here, and generally in a few minutes. They 
 are kept in a fire-proof " strong-room." The original Wills begin with the date 1483, 
 and the copies from 1383. The latter are on parchment, strongly bound, with brass 
 clasps, and fill the public-room and other apartments. The searches amount to an
 
 314 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 enormous number each year. Some entries of early wills, engrossed by the monks, are 
 beautifully illuminated, the colours remaining fresh to this day. 
 
 To obtain Perusal of a Will. Having obtained a shilling probate stamp, apply, on entering the 
 office at the first small box or recess on the right hand, where a clerk, on receiving the stamp, and the 
 surname of the maker of the Will required, directs the applicant to the Calendars, which are arranged 
 chronologically and alphabetically on the left-hand side of the room. A search must then be made 
 through these volumes for the entry of the Will ; which being found, a clerk at the further end of the 
 room, on being furnished with the exact title and date of the Will, ushers the inquirer into another 
 apartment, lit by a skylight, and furnished with a table and benches. Here two clerks are seated ; and 
 the actual Will being brought to the inquirer, he may inspect it at his leisure. He must not, however, 
 copy any thing from it, or make even a pencil memorandum ; and if he attempt to do so, he will be checked 
 by the clerks. 
 
 To obtain the Copy of a Will. Apply to the clerks in Ihe room, and they will state the expense per 
 folio. The order for a copy must be left at the box at the entrance of the office, where the time will be 
 named for the delivery of the copy within a few days, on payment of the cost. To insure correctness, 
 the copy is read out to the applicant in the office, and compared with the original will ; and the copy is 
 moreover duly attested by public authority. 
 
 If the applicant merely desires to see the copy of a Will, the clerk in the outer room, on being shown 
 the entry in the Calendar, will refer him by a written note to an attendant, who will at once bring the 
 copy to him ; the same rules against copying and making extracts prevail here also. 
 
 The principal Registry of Wills is open daily from 10 to 4. 
 
 Within the last five years, Wills, up to the year 1699, have been, on permission obtained 
 from the judge of the Court of Probate, allowed to be inspected or copied for literary 
 or historical purposes. Under this privilege, a volume of Wills has been published 
 by the Camden Society. 
 
 The Wills of celebrated persons are the Curiosities of the place. Here is the Will of 
 Shakspeare, on three folios of paper, each with his signature, and with this interlinea- 
 tion in his own handwriting : *' I give unto my wife my brown best bed, with the 
 furniture." Shakspeare's Will, which consists of three sheets of brief-paper, has been, 
 carefully cleaned, and each sheet has been placed in a polished oak frame, between 
 sheets of plate glass. The frames are made air-tight, and on the top of each is a brass 
 plate, engraved, " Shakspeare's Will, March 25, 1616," and each one is fastened with 
 a patent lock. Next is the Will of Milton, a nuncupative one, the great poet being 
 blind; but which was set aside by a decree of Sir Leoline Jenkins, the judge of the 
 Prerogative Court. The Will of Edmund Burke is here, leaving nearly every thing he 
 had in the world to his " entirely beloved, faithful, and affectionate wife." . The Will 
 of Napoleon I., deposited here, has been surrendered on the application of his nephew, 
 the Emperor Napoleon 1IL 
 
 D OMESDA Y-E OOK. 
 
 rjlHE Register of the lands of England, framed by order of William the Conqueror, 
 J- the earliest English record, and " not only the most ancient, but beyond dispute 
 the most noble monument of the whole of Britain" (Spelman), is preserved to this 
 day in its pristine freshness, fair and legible as when first written. It is comprised in 
 two volumes one a large folio, the other a quarto. The first is written on 382 double 
 pages of vellum, in one and the same hand, in a small but plain character, each page 
 having a double column. Some of the capital letters and principal passages are touched 
 with red ink, and others are crossed with lines of red ink. The second volume, in 
 quarto, is written in 450 pages of vellum, but in a single column, and in a large fair 
 character. At the end of the second volume is the following memorial, in capital 
 letters, of the time of its completion : " Anno Millesimo Octogesiino Sexto ab Incarna- 
 tione Domini, vigesimo vero regni Willielmi, facta est ista Descriptio, non solum per 
 bos tres Comitatus, sed etiam per alios." From internal evidence, the same year, 1086, 
 is assignable as the date of the first volume. 
 
 Although in early times Domesday, precious as it was always deemed, occasionally 
 travelled, like other records, to distant parts, till 1696 it was usually kept with the 
 King's Seal at Westminster, by the side of the Tally Court, in the Exchequer, under 
 three locks and keys ; in the charge of the auditors, the chamberlains, and deputy- 
 chamberlains, of the Exchequer. In 1696 it was deposited among other valuable 
 records in the Chapter House, where it long remained, and was kept " in the vaulted porch 
 never warmed by fire. From the first deposit of Domesday volume in the Treasury at 
 Winchester, in the reign of the Conqueror, it certainly never felt or saw a fire, yet 
 every page of the vellum is bright, sound, and perfect." (Sir F. Palgrave.) In making
 
 DRURY-LANE. 315 
 
 searches or transcript, you are not nllowed to touch the text, a rule which has been 
 kept from time immemorial, and to which the excellent condition of the record may be 
 partly ascribed. 
 
 It is a remarkable fact that Domesday- Book, which is usually so minute in regard to 
 our principal towns and cities, is deficient in respect to London. It only mentions a 
 vineyard in Holborn belonging to the Crown ; and ten acres of land near Bishopsgate, 
 belonging to the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's : yet certainly, observes Sir Henry 
 Ellis, in his Introduction to Domesday, no mutilation of the manuscript has taken 
 place; since the account of Middlesex is entire, and is exactly coincident with the 
 abridged copy of the Survey taken at the time, and now lodged in the office of the 
 King's Remembrancer in the Exchequer. Still, a distinct and independent survey of 
 the City itself might have been made at the time of the general Survey, although now 
 lost or destroyed, if not remaining among the unexplored archives of the Crown. 
 
 The parish of St. Giles's-in-the-Fields possesses a Book of Record, called Domesday- 
 Book, which is of vellum, and was made in 1624, by direction of the then Bishop of 
 London, as a perpetual parish record ; entitled " Treasure deposited in Heaven, or the 
 Book of God's House ; of things worthy to be remembered in this parish of St. Giles- 
 in-the-Fields, and in the first place of the church now lately restored, some account." 
 
 DRUEY-LANE, 
 
 IN Aggas's plans, of about 1570 and 1584, Drury-lane is represented at the north 
 end, as containing a cluster of farm and other houses, a cottage, and a blacksmith's 
 shop ; and the lane in continuity to Drury -place forms a separation from the fields by 
 embankments of earth, something like those of Maiden-lane, Battle-bridge. It was, in 
 fact, a country-road to Drury-place, the Strand, and its vicinity. A low public-house, 
 bearing the sign of the " Cock and Pye," two centuries ago, was almost the only house 
 in the eastern part of Drury-lane, except the mansion of the Druries. 
 
 The Lane extends from the north side of the Strand to Broad-street, Bloomsbury, 
 and was originally in the "Via de Aldwych," still preserved in Wych-street. At this 
 end was the mansion of the Druries, wherein Dr. Donne had apartments assigned him 
 by Sir Robert Drury; and here, in 1612, Mrs. Donne died of childbirth, at the same 
 day and hour that Dr. Donne, then at Paris, saw her in a vision pass twice before 
 him, " with her hair hanging about her shoulders, and a dead child in her arms." 
 William Lord Craven, the hero of Creutznach, became the next owner of Drury 
 House, which he rebuilt in four stories a large square pile of brick, afterwards called 
 raven House, where the Earl died in 1697. This mansion was taken down in 1803, 
 and the ground purchased by Philip Astley for the site of his Olympic Pavilio^n. In 
 its latter time, the Craven mansion was a public-house with the sign of " The Queen 
 of Bohemia" a reminiscence of its former occupancy by the daughter of James I., 
 through whom the family of Brunswick succeeded to the throne of England, and who is 
 suspected to have been secretly married to her heroic champion, Lord Craven. Craven- 
 buildings, erected in 1723, occupy a portion of the grounds of Craven House. 
 
 On the end wall of Craven-buildings was formerly a fresco portrait of Earl Craven in armour, with a 
 truncheon in his hand, and mounted on his white charger ; on each side was an earl's and a baron's 
 coronet, and the letters " W. C." This portrait was twice or thrice repainted in oil, the last time by 
 Edward Edwards, A.R.A. (Brayley's Londiniana, vol. iv. p. 301.) Hayman, the painter, once lived in. 
 Craven-buildings ; Mrs. Bracegirdle, the actress, had here a house, afterwards tenanted by the equally 
 celebrated Mrs. Pritchard; and in the back parlour of No. 17, Dr. Arne composed the music ofComus. 
 
 The Cock and Pye public-house (opposite Craven-buildings) above mentioned, still 
 remains, and is now a book -shop. Next door is one of the few panelled houses exist- 
 ing ; and the east side of Drury-court, facing the church of St. Mary-le-Straiid, is a 
 range of old houses, apparently contemporary with the Cock and Pye, or probably two 
 centuries and a half old. Wych-street, which runs at an obtuse angle with this pas- 
 sage, likewise contains some houses of considerable antiquity. Archer's Vestiges, part v. 
 
 In the Coal-yard, at the Holboru end of Drury-lane, was born Nell Gwynne j and in 
 Maypole-alley (now Drury-court) she lodged when Pepys saw her looking at the 
 dance around the Strand Maypole : 
 
 " 1 st May, 1667. To Westminster, in the way meeting many milkmaids with their garlands upon their 
 pails, dancing with a fiddler before them ; and saw pretty Nelly standing at her lodging-door, in Drury- 
 lane, in her smock-sleeves and bodice, looking upon one : she seemed a mighty pretty creature."
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Drury-lane was nobly tenanted till late in the seventeenth century ; but a paper by 
 Steele in the Tatler, No. 46, represents the lane in its decline ; and Gay's propitiatory 
 lines 
 
 " Oh, may thy virtue guard thee through the roads 
 Of Drury's mazy courts and dark abodes !" 
 
 are almost as applicable now as at the day they were written : Hogarth has made it 
 the locality of the " Harlot's Progress." Pitt-place (above Princes-street) was the site 
 of the Cock-pit, the first Drury-lane Theatre. (See THEATBES.) 
 
 EARTHQUAKES IN LONDON. 
 
 FROM Mr. Milne's elaborate Register of Earthquakes in Great Britain,* the most 
 complete record of its class, we select the majority of the following details of 
 shocks felt in the metropolis : 
 
 1692, September 8, London and Flanders. 
 
 1750, February 8, London and Westminster. Motion of ground from "W. to E. 
 Several chimneys thrown down and walls rent. A shepherd at Kensington heard the 
 noise rush past him, and instantly he saw the ground, a dry and solid spot, wave under 
 him like the face of the river ; the tall trees of the avenue where he was nodded their 
 tops very sensibly, and quivered. Pkilos. Trans, vol. xlvi. 
 
 1750, February 8, between 12 and 1 P.M., all over Westminster. " Stacks of heavy 
 chimneys were dislodged, and the Thames became greatly agitated. The barristers 
 were greatly alarmed, for they thought that Westminster Hall was falling down." 
 Walcott's Westminster, p. 22. 
 
 1750, March 8. Motion from E. to W. ; houses near the Thames were most shaken. 
 Near London there was a continued and confused lightning till within a minute or two 
 of the shock ; dogs howled, fish jumped three feet out of water; sound in air preceded 
 concussions; flashes of lightning and a ball of fire were seen just before explosion. 
 The President of the Royal Society (Martin Folkes) stated that he did not on this 
 occasion perceive that lifting motion which he was sensible of on 8th February, but 
 he felt very quick shakes or tremors horizontally. A boatman on the Thames felt his 
 boat receive a blow at the bottom, and the whole river seemed agitated. The Rev. Mr. 
 Pickering stated that he was lying awake in his bed, which stood N. and S. He first 
 " heard a sound like that of a blast of wind. I then perceived myself raised in my bed, 
 and the motion began on my right side, and inclined me towards the left." In the 
 Temple Gardens, the noise in the air was greater than the loudest report of cannon. 
 At the same instant, the buildings inclined over from the perpendicular several degrees. 
 The general impression was, that the whole city was violently pushed to S.E., and then 
 brouglijt back again. The sound preceded the concussions, resembling the discharge of 
 several cannon, or distant thunder in the air, and not a subterranean explosion. 
 Flashes of lightning were observed au hour (before ?) and a vast ball of fire. At 
 Kensington, the bailiff of Mr. Fox, at a quarter past five A.M., heard (when in the open 
 air) a noise much like thunder at a distance, which, coming from N.W., grew louder, 
 and gave a crack over his head, and then gradually died away. The sky was clear, 
 and he saw no fire or appearances of lightning. Immediately after the crack, the 
 ground shook, and it moved like a quagmire. The whole lasted a minute. Philo- 
 sophical Transactions, vol. xlvi. 
 
 " At half-past five A.M. the whole city of Westminster was alarmed by another shock more severe 
 than the former (Feb. 8), accompanied by a hollow rumbling noise; and numbers of people were 
 awakened in amazement and fear from their sleep. Great stones were thrown from the ' new spire ' of 
 Westminster Abbey, and fish jumped half a yard above the water; and in several steeples the bells were 
 struck by chime-hammers. An impostor pretended to foretel an earthquake on a particular day, which 
 would lay Westminster in ruins ; and when the appointed time arrived, the people ran out in crowds 
 into the country to escape such a terrible catastrophe. The churches could scarcely contain the throngs 
 of worshippers. The pulpits and public prints were employed in deprecating God's wrath and calling 1 
 a degenerate people to repentance. But, unhappily, it was a devotion as shortlived only as their fear." 
 Walcott's Westminster, p. 22. 
 
 Horace Walpole writes to Sir Horace Mann, March 11, 1750 : " In the night, between Wednesday 
 and Thursday last (exactly a month since the first shock), the earth had a shivering fit between one and 
 two; but so slight, that if no more had followed, 1 don't believe it would have been noticed. I had 
 been awake, and had scarce dozed again, when on a sudden I felt my bolster lift up my head ; I thought 
 somebody was getting from under my bed, but soon found it was a strong earthquake, that lasted near 
 
 * Notices of Earthquake Shocks felt in Great Britain. By David Milne, Esq., P.E.S.E., M.W.S. 
 F.G.S., &c. Communicated to Jameson't Journal, No. 61.
 
 EASTCJTEAP. 317 
 
 half a minute, with a violent vibration and great roaring. I rang my bell, my servant came in frightened 
 out of his senses : in an instant we heard all the windows in the neighbourhood flung up. I got np, 
 and found people running into the streets, but saw no mischief done; there has been some two old 
 houses flung down, several chimneys, and much china-ware. The bells rung in several houses. Admiral 
 Knowles, who had lived long in Jamaica, and felt seven there, says this was more violent than any of 
 them. Francesco prefers it to the dreadful one at Leghorn. * * * It has nowhere reached above 
 ten miles from London. The only visible effect it has had was on the Ridotto, at which, being the fol- 
 lowing night, there were but 400 people. A parson who came into White's the morning of earthquake 
 the first, and heard bets laid on whether it was an earthquake or the blowing up of powder-mills, 
 went away exceedingly scandalized, and said, ' I protest they are such an impious set of people, that I 
 believe if the last trumpet was to sound, they would bet puppet-show against Judgment."' 
 
 1756, February 8. About 8 A.M., a shock felt at Dover and London. 
 
 1761, February 8. A shock most sensibly felt along the banks of the Thames 
 from Greenwich near to Richmond. At Limehouse and Poplar, chimneys were thrown 
 down ; and in several parts of London, the furniture was shaken, and the pewter fell 
 to the ground : at Hampstead and Highgate, it was also very perceptible. 
 
 1761, March 8. A more violent shock, between five and six A.M., the air being 
 very warm, and the atmosphere clear and serene ; though, till within a few minutes 
 preceding, there had been strong but confused lightning in quick succession. The 
 violence of the motion caused many persons to start from their beds and flee to the 
 street, under the impression that their houses were falling. In St. James's Park, and 
 in the squares and open places about the West-end of the town, the tremulous vibration 
 of the earth was most distinguishable ; it seemed to move in a south and north 
 direction, with a quick return towards the centre, and was accompanied with a loud 
 noise as of rushing wind. 
 
 A crazy life-guardsman predicted a third earthquake within a month from the 
 above, and drove thousands of persons from the metropolis ; whilst another wight 
 advertised pills " good against earthquakes." 
 
 In 1842, an absurd report gained credence among the weak-minded, that London 
 would be destroyed by earthquake on the 17th of March, St. Patrick's Day. This 
 rumour was founded on certain doggerel prophecies : one pretended to be pronounced in 
 the year 1203, and contained in the Harleian Collection (British Museum), 800 b. folio 
 319 ; the other by Dr. Dee, the astrologer (1598, MS. in the British Museum). The 
 rhymes, with these "authorities," inserted in the newspapers, actually excited some alarm, 
 and a great number of timid persons left the metropolis before the 17th. Upon re- 
 ference to the British Museum, the " prophecies " were not, however, to be found ; and 
 their forger has confessed them to have been an experiment upon public credulity. 
 
 In 1863, Oct. 6, the centre and western parts of England were shaken j and in London 
 and the suburbs the shock was slightly felt. 
 
 EASTCHEAP. 
 
 THIS ancient thoroughfare originally extended from Tower-street westward to the 
 south end of Clement's-lane, where Cannon-street begins. It was the Eastern 
 Cheap or Market, as distinguished from West Cheap, now Cheapside ; and was crossed 
 by Fish-street-hill, the eastern portion being Little Eastcheap (now Eastcheap), and the 
 western Great Eastcheap : the latter, with St. Michael's Church, Crooked-lane, dis- 
 appeared in the formation of the new London Bridge approaches. 
 
 Mr. Kempe, F.S.A., considers Eastcheap to have been the principal or Praetorian 
 gate of the Roman garrison, leading into the Roman Forum ; and in 1831 there were 
 found here a Roman roadway, two wells, the architrave of a Roman Building, &c. ; in 
 Miles-lane, a' piece of the Roman wall, cinerary urns, coins of Claudius and Vespasian ; 
 and in Bush-lane, remains of the Prsetorium itself, in fragments of brick, with inscriptions 
 designating them as formed under the Prsetorsbip of Agricola. Gent. Mag. March, 1842. 
 
 Eastcheap was next the Saxon Market, celebrated from the tune of Fitzstephen to 
 the days of Lydgate for the provisions sold there : 
 
 " Then I hyed me into Est-Chcpe, 
 One cryes ribbes of befe and many a pye : 
 Pewter pottes they clattered on a heape." London Lyckpenny. 
 
 In Great Eastcheap was the Soar's Head Tavern, first mentioned temp. Richard II. ; 
 the scene of the revels of Falstaff and Henry V., when Prince of Wales, in 
 Shakspeare's Henry IV., Part 2. Stow relates a riot in " the cooks' dwellings " here 
 on St. John's Eve, 1410, by Princes John and Thomas, for unceremoniously quelling
 
 318 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 which the mayor, aldermen, and sheriffs were cited before Chief Justice Gascoigne, 
 but discharged honourably, the king reproving his own sons. The tavern was destroyed 
 in the Great Fire, but was rebuilt within two years, as attested by a boar's head 
 cut in stone, with the initials of the landlord, I. T., and the date 1668, above the first- 
 floor window. This sign-stone is now in the Guildhall library. The house stood 
 between Small-alley and St. Michael's-lane, and in the rear looked upon St. Michael's 
 churchyard, where was buried a. drawer, or waiter, at the tavern, d. 1720 : in the 
 church was interred John Rhodoway, " Vintner at the Bore's Head," 1623. 
 
 Maitland, in 1739, mentions the Boar's Head, with " This is the chief tavern in 
 London " under the sign. Goldsmith (Essays], Bos well (Life of Dr. Johnson), and 
 Washington Irving (Sketch-book), have idealized the house as the identical place 
 which Falstaff frequented, forgetting its destruction in the Great Fire. The site of 
 the Boar's Head is very nearly that of the statue of King William IV. 
 
 In 1834, Mr. Kempe, F.S.A., exhibited to the Society of Antiquaries a carved oak figure of Sir John 
 Falstaff, in the costume of the sixteenth century. It supported an ornamental bracket over one side 
 of the door of the Boar's Head, a figure of Prince Henry sustaining that on the other. The Falstaff 
 was the property of Mr. Thomas Shelton, brazier, Great Bastcheap, whose ancestors had lived in the 
 shop he then occupied ever since the Great Fire. He well remembered the last Grand Shakspearean. 
 Dinner-party at the Boar's Head, about 1784. A boar's bead with silver tusks, which had been sus- 
 pended in some room in the tavern, perhaps the Half- Moon or Pomegranate (see Henry IV., act ii. sc. 4), 
 at the Great Fire fell down with the ruins of the house, and was conveyed to Whitechapel Mount, 
 where, many years after, it was recovered and identified with its former locality. At a public-house, 
 No. 12, Miles-lane, was long preserved a tobacco-box with a painting of the original Boar's Head Tavern 
 on the lid. 
 
 HAST INDIA HOUSE, 
 
 OR the House of the East India Company, " the most celebrated commercial Associa- 
 tion of ancient or modern times, and which has extended its sway over the 
 whole of the Mogul Empire," was situated on the south side of Leadenhall-street, and 
 was taken down in 1862. 
 
 The tradition of the House is, that the Company, incorporated December 31, 1600, 
 first transacted their business in the great room of the Nag's Head Inn, opposite St. 
 Botolph's Church, Bishopsgate-street. The maps of London, soon after the Great Fire, 
 place the India House on a part of its late site in Leadenhall-street. Here originally 
 stood the mansion of Alderman Kerton, built in the reign of Edward VI., rebuilt on the 
 accession of Elizabeth, enlarged by its next purchaser, Sir William Craven, lord mayor 
 in 1610 : here was born the great Lord Craven, who in 1701 leased his house and a 
 tenement in Lime-street to the Company, at 100/. a-year. A scarce Dutch etching in 
 the British Museum shows this house to have been half-timbered, its lofty gable sur- 
 mounted with two dolphins and a figure of a mariner, or, as some say, of the first 
 Governor ; beneath are merchant-ships at sea, the Royal arms, and those of the Com- 
 pany. This grotesque structure was taken down in 1726, and upon its site was erected 
 "the old East India House," to which, in 1799 and 1800, was built a handsome stone 
 front, 200 feet long, by Jupp, and other enlargements by Cockerell, R.A., and 
 Wilkins, R.A. It had a hexastyle Ionic portico of six fluted columns, from the ancient 
 temple of Apollo Didymseus, and in the tympanum of the pediment were sculptured 
 by Bacon, jun., figures emblematic of the commerce of the East, shielded by George III. : 
 on the upper acroterium was a statue of Britannia ; and on the two lower, a figure of 
 Europe on a horse, and Asia on a camel. 
 
 The interior contained many fine statues and pictures. The new Sale-room approached 
 in interest the Rotunda of the Bank of England. The Court-room (Directors') was an 
 exact cube of 30 feet ; was richly gilt, and was hung with six pictures of the Cape, 
 St. Helena, and Tellicherry : and over the chimney was a large marble group of figures, 
 supported by caryatides. The general Court-room (Proprietors') had in niches statues 
 of Lord Clive, Warren Hastings, the Marquis Cornwallis, Sir Eyre Coote, General 
 Lawrance, Sir George Pococke, and the Marquis Wellesley. The Finance and Home 
 Committee-room had one wall entirely occupied by a picture of the grant of the 
 Dewanee to the Company in 1765, the foundation of the British power in India : here 
 also were portraits of Warren Hastings and the Marquis Cornwallis ; Mirza Abul 
 Hassan, the Persian envoy to London in 1809, &c. The Library contained, perhaps,
 
 EGYPTIAN- HALL, PICCADILLY. SIS 
 
 the most splendid assemblage of Oriental MSS. in Europe, many with illuminated draw- 
 ings; Tippoo Sultan's Eegister of Dreams (with interpretations), and his Koran; a 
 large collection of Chinese printed books ; and a MS. Sanscrit tract on the Astrolabe, 
 of which Chaucer's celebrated treatise is a literal translation, though the poet may have 
 translated it from an Arabic or a Latin version. 
 
 The auction sale of the materials of the India House occupied five days ; the most valuable of the 
 contents having been transferred to the temporary quarters of the Indian Government, in Victoria-street, 
 Westminster. There were 15,000 feet of York and Portland paving; 4000 feet run of Portland coping, 
 stone sills, stringing, cornice, and other stonework ; 2000 feet of sheet copper, 200 tons of lead on the 
 roofs, 2000 squares of flooring boards ; 1700 doors of all kinds, including some of solid mahogany ; and 
 an immense variety of other materials, covering an acre and a half of ground. The Museum, with 
 elegantly slender, moulded, and decorated columns, supporting the interior of an areaded quadrangle, 
 surmounted by an ornamental domed lantern, and paved in mosaic work, was a beautiful example of 
 Moorish and Indian architecture, erected about three years previously from the designs of Digby Wy att : 
 it cost several thousand pounds, and was sold for 791. 10. The site was subsequently sold for 155.000Z., 
 at the rate of something more than lOO.OOOZ. per acre; 10.000Z. per acre more than was given for the 
 site of Gresham House. Hereupon has been erected a vast collection of Chambers, principal front 300 
 feet long ; E. N. Clifton, architect : the structure is a very fine piece of Italian street architecture. 
 
 In clearing the site were found the remains of a Roman house, at a considerable 
 depth ; opposite the East India House portico, in 1803, was found the most magnificent 
 Soman tesselated pavement yet discovered in London. 
 
 It lay at only 9J feet below the street, but a third side had been cut away for a sewer ; it appeared 
 to have been the floor of a room more than twenty feet square. In the centre was Bacchus upon a tiger, 
 encircled with three borders (inflexions of serpents, cornucopia, and squares diagonally concave), and 
 drinking-cups and plants at the angles. Surrounding the whole was a square border of a bandeau of 
 oak, and lozenge figures and true-lovers' knots, and a five-feet outer margin of plain red tiles. The 
 pavement was broken in taking up, but the pieces are preserved in the library of the East India Com- 
 pany ; a fragment of an urn and a jaw-bone were found beneath one corner. "In this beautiful speci- 
 men of Roman mosaic," says Mr. Fisher, who published a coloured print of it, " the drawing, colouring, 
 and shadows are all effected by about twenty separate tints, composed of tessellas of different materials, 
 the major part of which are baked earths ; but the more brilliant colours of green and purple, which 
 form the drapery, are of glass. These tessellse are of different sizes and figures, adapted to the situations 
 they occupy in the design." 
 
 Mr. W. H. Black, F.S.A., accounts for various discoveries of tessellated pavement 
 and other remains in the neighbourhood of Leadenhall-street, by these places being 
 outside Walbrook, the eastern boundary of what Mr. Black regards as Roman London. 
 He contends that these remains, in all probability, belong to the villas of Roman 
 citizens, in what, until the time of Constantino, were the suburbs of the City. Proc. 
 Soc. Antiq., 1864. 
 
 The East India Company became an exclusively political institution; the Act 3 & 4 Will. IV., pro- 
 longing the charter till 1854, debarring the Company from the privilege of trading. Before this reduc- 
 tion, nearly 400 men were employed in the warehouses, and the number of clerks was above 400. The 
 fifteen warehouses often contained 50,000,000 Ibs. (above 22,000 tons) of tea : and 1,200,000 Ibs. have 
 been sold in one day. (In 1668, the Company ordered " one hundred pounds weight of good teye " to be 
 sent home on speculation !) The clerks' business was very heavy : from 1793 to 1813, the explanatory 
 matter from the Indian Government filled 9094 large folio volumes ; and from that year to 1829, 14,414 ; 
 and a military despatch has been accompanied with 199 papers, containing 13,511 pages. In 1826, the 
 patronage of each East India Director for the year was estimated at 20,0002. sterling. 
 
 The twenty-four Directors received 300Z. each, and 5001. for their " chairs," being a 
 charge on the Hindoos of 7700Z. per annum. Except a few satrapies, cadies, high- 
 priests, and teachers of hosts, the directors exercised the whole patronage of nomination 
 to Indian office, civil, military, and clerical. Hoole, the translator of Tasso ; Charles 
 Lamb, the author of Elia ; and James Mill, the historian of British India, were clerks 
 in the East India House. " My printed works," said Lamb, " were my recreations my 
 true works may be found on the shelves in Leadenhall-street, filling some hundred 
 folios." 
 
 The Company's Museum has been removed to Fife House, Whitehall. (See MU- 
 SEUMS, &c.) 
 
 EGYPTIAN HALL, PICCADILLY. 
 
 THIS edifice, and a smaller structure in Welbeck-street, are, in single features and 
 details, the only specimens of Egyptian architecture in London. The latter was, 
 as originally erected, the most correct in character, but has since been almost spoiled. 
 The Hall in Piccadilly conforms to the style in the columns and general outline, as 
 indicated by the inclined torus-moulding at the extremity of the front, the cornice, &c. ;
 
 320 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 though the composition itself is at variance with the principles of genuine Egyptian 
 architecture, the front being divided into two floors, with wide instead of narrow 
 windows to both. The details are mostly from the great temple of Tentyra, with the 
 scarabseus, winged mundus, hieroglyphics, &c. The architect's name, G. F. Robinson, 
 is inscribed upon the fafade. The entablature is supported by colossal figures of Isis 
 and Osiris, sculptured by L. Gahagan. The Hall cost 16,000/., and was built in 1812 
 for a museum of natural history collected by W. Bullock, F.L.S., during thirty years' 
 travel in Central America, which was exhibited here until 1819, when it was sold in 
 2248 lots.* 
 
 The Egyptian Hall contains lecture-rooms, a bazaar, and a large central room, " the 
 Waterloo Gallery." As the Hall has been a sort of Ark of Exhibitions, we enumerate 
 the Curiosities which have been shown here : 
 
 1816. The Judgment of Brutus, painted by Le Thiere, president of the Academy of St. Luke, at 
 Kome. Water-co lour Paintings of Minerals and Shells, by Chev. de Barde. Napoleon's Travelling, 
 Chariot, built for his Russian campaign, and adapted for a bed-room, dressing-room, pantry, kitchen, 
 &c. ; captured at Waterloo : seen at the Egyptian Hall by 800,000 persons ; transferred to the Tussaud 
 Exhibition, in Baker-street, Portman-square. 
 
 1819. Sale of Bullock's Museum: produce, 9974?. 13*.; cost, 30,0001. 
 
 1821. Fac-simile of the Tomb of Psammuthis, King of Thebes, discovered by Belzoni ; constructed 
 and painted from drawings and wax -impressions taken by him of all the original figures, hierogly- 
 phics, emblems, &c. ; the two principal chambers illuminated : first day, 1900 admissions, at 2s. (id. each. 
 
 1822. Laplanders and Reindeer : 1001. per day taken for six weeks. Pair of Wapeti, or Elks, from 
 the Upper Missouri ; and a pretended Mermaid, visited by 300 and 400 persons daily .t 
 
 1824. Mexican Museum, ancient and modern. Esquimaux Man and Woman. Hatching Chicken* 
 by Artificial Heat. 
 
 1825. Rath, or Surmese, Imperial State Carriage, captured by the British in 1824 : the coach and the 
 throne-seat, studded with 20,000 gems, are stated to have cost 12.500J. at Tavoy. Model of Switzerland. 
 
 1826. The Musical Sisters, four and six years old, harpist and pianist. Altar-piece, by Murillo. 
 The Pecilorama, views painted by Stanfield. 
 
 1827. The Tyrolese Minstrels, four males and one female. 
 
 1828. Pictures of Battles of the French Armies, painted by General Le Jenne. The Death of Vir- 
 ginia, painted by Le Thiere. Haydon's Picture of the Mock Election in the King's Bench, bought by 
 George IV. for 500 guineas, and sent from the Egyptian Hall to St. James's Palace. 
 
 1829. Troubadours (singers). The Siamese Twins, two youths of eighteen, natives of Siam, united 
 by a short band at the pit of the stomach " two perfect bodies, bound together by an inseparable link." 
 
 1330. Vox Bipartitus, or two voices in one. Sculpture, by Lough. Tableaux Vivans (ancient pic- 
 tures by living figures). Michael Boai, or the chin-chopper, a la Buckhorse. 
 
 1831. Model of the The'dtre Frangais, Paris. A Cobra di Capello, the first brought alive to 
 Europe. Two Orang-outangs and a Chimpanzee. A Double-sighted Boy, M'Kean, aged eight years. 
 Scrymepour's Picture of the First Sign in Egypt. Double-sighted Boy. The Egyptian Hall converted 
 into a Bazaar. 
 
 1832. Museum of Etruscan Antiquities. Royal Clarence Vase, of glass, made at Birmingham. 
 The Brothers Xpeller, singers, from Switzerland. Haydon's Pictures of Xenophon and the 10,000 ; and 
 his Mock Election, lent by George IV. for exhibition ; Death of Eucles, &c. 
 
 1835. Views of Paris, painted by M. Dupressoir. 
 
 1837. A Living Male Child, with four hands, four arms, four legs, four feet, and two bodies, born at 
 Staleybridge, Manchester. Masquerades. 
 
 1838. Le Brun's Picture of the Battle of Arbela, embossed on copper, by Szentpetery. Captain 
 Siborne's Model of the Battle of Waterloo, with 190,000 figures ; now in the Museum of the United 
 Service Institution. 
 
 1839. Skeleton of a Mammoth Oa. Pictorial Storm at Sea, introducing Grace Darling and the " For- 
 farshire Wreck." 
 
 1840. Aubusson Carpets. Vng-ka-puti (Gibbon monkey), from Sumatra. Bioplulax, or Life and 
 Property Protector. Haydon's large Picture of the General Anti-Slavery Contention. 
 
 1841. Catlin's North American Indian Gallery of 310 portraits of chiefs, and 200 views of villages, 
 religious ceremonies, dances, ball-plays, buifalo-hunts in all, 3000 full-length figures, with costumes 
 and other produce, from a wigwam to a rattle, filling a room 106 feet long. The Missouri Leviathan 
 Skeleton. The Great Pennard Cheese, presented to the Queen. 
 
 1843. Sir George Hayter's Great Picture of the First Reformed Parliament, figures half-life size. 
 Model of Venice. The Napoleon Museum. 
 
 1844. The American Dwarf, " Tom Thumb," whose exhibition often realized 1251. a day ; while, 
 in sickening contrast, in an adjoining room, the pictures of Haydon (to whom Wordsworth wrote 
 " High is our calling, friend ") were scarcely visited by a dozen persons in a week. The " Banishment 
 of Aristides," Haydon's last picture, was shown here, and its failure hastened the painter to his awful 
 end. Nine Ojibbeway Indians, from Lake Huron, in their native costumes, exhibiting their war-dances 
 and sports. German Dwarf s. 
 
 1845. The Eureka, a machine for composing hexameter Latin verses ; a practical illustration of the 
 law of evolution. Second Exhibition of Captain Siborne's Model of the Battle of Waterloo. 
 
 * Bullock's " Liverpool Museum" was opened at 22, Piccadilly, in 1805, in the room originally occu- 
 pied by Astley for his evening performance of horsemanship; his amphitheatre not being roofed until 
 1780, and therefore allowing only day exhibitions. 
 
 t In Manners and Customs of the Japanese, published in 1841, the above " Mermaid " (the head and 
 shoulders of a monkey neatly attached to a headless fish) is proved to have been manufactured in Japan 
 brought to Europe by an American adventurer, and valued at 1000J. A pretended Mermaid was also 
 exhibited in London in 1775 ; and in Broad-court, Covent-garden, in 1794.
 
 ELY-PLACE. 321 
 
 1846. Prof. Faker's Euphonia, or speaking automaton, enunciating sounds and words ; played by 
 keys. Mammoth Sorse. Polar Doff. Bosjesman Family. The Rock Harmonicon. Curiosities from 
 Australia. Professor Kit's Poses Plastiques. A Dwarf dressed in a bear-skin: the " What in it f 
 immediately detected. 
 
 1S47. Second Family of Soijesmen (Bushmen), from Southern Africa. Models of Ancient and 
 Modern Jerusalem, by Brunetti. Exhibition of Modern Paintings ; free to artists. 
 
 1S43. Pictures of Recent Political Events in Paris. The Mysterious Lady. Figure of a Russian 
 XaJy in veined marbles. Hanvard's Dioramic Picture of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers, 3000 miles, 
 stated to be painted on three miles of canvas (!) ; sketched before the painter was of age. 
 
 1850. Panorama of Fremont's Overland Route to California. Bonomi's Panorama of the Hile, 800 
 feet long : representing 1720 miles distance, closing with the Pyramids and Sphinx. 
 
 1852. March 15. Mr. Albert Smith first gave the narrative of his Ascent of Mont Blanc in 1851, ac- 
 companying the exhibition of cleverly- painted moving dioramic pictures of its perils and sublimities. 
 Mr. Smith continued to give, at the Egyptian Hall, his popular representations until within a few 
 days of his lamented death, May 23, 1860, the day before he attained the age of 44. 
 
 1860. A " Miraculous Cabinet," invented and produced by II. Xadolsky. This cabinet measures 
 only 5 feet high, 3 feet wide, and 18 inches deep : it contains 150 pieces of furniture, of the same size as 
 in ordinary use ; namely, a judge's-table, with ornaments, books, and 6 chairs ; 4 card-tables, 2 Chinese- 
 tables, a smoking-table, a lady's work-table, 2 Chinese toilet-tables, a chess-table, 4 work-boxes, 4 flower- 
 pots with flowers; a what-not, candelabrum, bed with hangings, and a swing-cot; toilet-table, 
 embroidery-frame, flower-table, 7 Chinese lamps, 2 Chinese candlesticks, 12 fancy boxes, 1 footstool, a 
 painter's easel, 4 music-stands, dining-table laid with 26 covers ; 4 dishes, 23 plates, 30 cups, salt-cellars, 
 &c.; a chandelier with 12 wax-lights ; 9 garden-chairs, 4 candlesticks; Chinese writing-desk, inkstand 
 and tapers, rulers, and bell ; tea-tray table, throne, throne-chair, 4 flower-tables ; and a large table inlaid 
 with shells, glass top, &c. When the various articles were taken out of the cabinet, and spread over 
 the apartment, the notion of putting them back again into the same cabinet seemed almost absurd. 
 
 The Hall was subsequently let for various performances and exhibitions ; including Mr. Arthur 
 Sketchley's Entertainment ; Colonel Stodare's Mystery and Magic ; Mrs. Fanny Kemble's Readings ; 
 Madame Lind-Goldschmidt's Concert ; the Exhibition of Chang, the Chinese Giant ; a Panorama of the 
 Holy Land; Exhibition of Mr. John Leech's Sketches; and the General Society of Painters in Water- 
 colours. Here, in the " Dudley Gallery," was deposited the valuable collection of Pictures belonging 
 to the Earl of Dudley, during the erection of his own Gallery at Dudley House, Park-lane. 
 
 ELY-PLACE. 
 
 ALL that remains of this celebrated palace, anciently Ely House, which stood on the 
 north side of Holborn-hill, and was the town mansion of the Bishops of Ely, is the 
 chapel of St. Ethelreda, already described at page 161. The site is otherwise occupied 
 by two rows of houses known as Ely-place, and a knot of tenements, streets, and alleys ; 
 but the locality is fraught with the various historic associations of five centuries. 
 Its first occupier, Bishop John de Kirkby, dying in 1290, bequeathed a messuage and 
 nine cottages on this spot to his successors in the see of Ely. William de Luda, the 
 next bishop, annexed some lands, added to the residence, and in 1297 devised them to 
 the sec, on condition that his successor should provide for the service of St. Ethelreda's 
 Chapel. John de Hotham, who died in 1336, planted a vineyard, kitchen-garden, 
 orchard, &c. Thomas de Arundel, preferred to the see in 1374, re-edified the episcopal 
 buildings and the Chapel ; and erected a large gate-house towards Holborn, the stone- 
 work of which remained in Stow's time. Ely House was in part let by the see to 
 noblemen. Here " old John of Gaunt, time-honoured Lancaster," died Feb. 13, 1399 ; 
 and Shakspeare has made it the scene of Lancaster's last interview with Richard II. 
 Following Hall and Holinshed, too, Shakspeare refers to this Place when Richard Duke 
 of Gloucester, at the Council in the Tower, thus addresses the Bishop : 
 
 " D. of Glou. My lord of Ely, when I was last in Holborn, 
 I saw good strawberries in your garden there ; 
 I do beseech you send for some of them. 
 IS. of Ely. Marry, and will, my lord, with all my heart." 
 
 Richard III., act iii. sc. 4. 
 
 At Ely House were kept divers feasts by the Serjeants-at-Law : at one, in 1495, 
 Henry VII. was present with his queen; and at another feast in 1531, on making 
 eleven new Serjeants, Henry VIII. and Queen Katharine were banquetted here with 
 sumptuousness wanting " little of a feast at a coronation ;" and open-house was kept 
 for five days. In 1576, at the mandatory request of Queen Elizabeth, Bishop Cox 
 leased to Sir Christopher Hatton for twenty-one years the greater portion of the 
 demesne, on payment at Midsummer-day of a red rose, ten loads of hay, and Wl. per 
 annum ; the Bishop reserving to himself and his successors the right of walking in the 
 gardens, and gathering twenby bushels of roses yearly. Hatton largely improved the 
 estate, and then petitioned the Queen to require the Bishop to make over the whole 
 property ; whereupon ensued the Bishop's remonstrance, and Elizabeth's undignified 
 threat to "unfrock" him: and in 1578, the entire property being conveyed to Hatton,
 
 322 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Elizabeth further retaliated by keeping the see of Ely vacant for eighteen years from 
 the death of Bishop Cox in 1591. 
 
 Aggas's map shows the vineyard, meadow, kitchen-garden, and orchard, of Ely Place 
 to have extended northward from Holborn-hill to the present Hatton-wall and Vine- 
 street ; and east and west, from Saffron-hill to nearly the present Leather-lane : but 
 except a cluster of houses (Ely Rents) on Holborn-hill, the surrounding ground was 
 entirely open and unbuilt on ; the names of Saffron-hill, Field-lane, and Lily, Turnmill, 
 and Vine streets, carry the mind's eye back to this suburban appropriation. The 
 Sutherland View, 15-13, also shows the gate-house, chapel, great banquetting-hall, &c. 
 Sir Christopher lived in great state in Hatton House, as Ely Place was now called; 
 but Elizabeth " which seldom gave loans, and never forgave due debts," pressed the 
 payment of some 40,OOOZ. arrears, which the Chancellor could not meet ; so it went to 
 his heart, and he died Nov. 20, 1591. He was succeeded by his nephew, whose widow, 
 the strange Lady Hatton, in 1598 was married to Sir Edward Coke, then Attorney- 
 general, but who could not gain admission to Hatton House : she died " at her house 
 in Holbourne," Jan. 3, 1646. The Bishops of Ely made several attempts to recover 
 the entire property ; but, during the imprisonment of Bishop Wren by the Long Par- 
 liament, most of the palatial buildings were taken down, and upon the garden were 
 built Hatton-garden, Great and Little Kirby-streets, Charles-street, Cross-street, and 
 Hatton-wall. During the Interrugnum, Hatton House and Offices were used as a 
 prison and hospital. In 1772 the estate was purchased by the Crown ; a town-house 
 was built for the Bishop, No. 27, Dover-street, Piccadilly ; and about 1773, the present 
 Ely-place was built, the chapel remaining on the west side. A fragment of the episcopal 
 residence is preserved in, and has given name to, Mitre-court, leading from Hattoii- 
 garden to Ely-place. Here, worked into the wall, as the sign of a public-house, is a 
 mitre, sculptured in stone, with the date 1546; which probably once decorated Ely 
 Palace, or the precinct gateway. 
 
 The stage-play of Christ's Passion was acted in the reign of James I. "at Elie 
 House in Holborn, when Gondomar (the Spanish ambassador), lay there on Good 
 Friday at night, at which there were thousands present " (Prynne's Histriomastix, 
 p. 117, note) ; this being the last performance of a Religious Mystery in England. At 
 Ely House, also, was arranged the the grand Masque given by the four Inns of Court to 
 Charles I. and Queen Henrietta Maria, at Whitehall, on Candlemas-day, 1634, at the 
 cost of 21,0001. ; when the masquers, horsemen, musicians, dancers, with the grand 
 committee including the great lawyers Whitelocke, Hyde (afterwards Lord Clarendon), 
 and Selden went in procession by torchlight from Ely House, down Chancery-lane, 
 along the Strand to Whitehall. 
 
 EXCHANGES. 
 
 JT1HE Royal Exchange, at the north-western extremity of Cornhill, is the third 
 -*- Exchange built nearly on the same site, for the meeting cf merchants and bankers. 
 The first " goodely Burse" was projected by Sir James Gresham, Lord Mayor in 1538, 
 who submitted to Thomas Cromwell, Lord Privy-Seal, a plan taken from the Burse at 
 Antwerp. This application failed; but the project was renewed twenty years later by 
 Thomas Gresham, the younger son of Sir James, born in London in 1519, apprenticed 
 to his uncle, Sir John Gresham, and admitted in 1543 to the Mercers' Company ; in 
 their Hall is a contemporary portrait of Sir Thomas Gresham, who was royal 
 agent at Antwerp to Henry VIII., Edward VI., and Elizabeth, and was knighted when 
 ambassador at the court of the Duchess of Parma. Like other bankers and merchants 
 of that day, Gresham had his shop in Lombard- street, as yet the only Exchange. The 
 house was on the site of No. 68, the banking-house of Martin, Stone, and Co. : over the 
 door was Gresham's crest,* a grasshopper, as a sign, which was seen by Pennant, but 
 disappeared by piecemeal. 
 
 * The letters of James Gresham, in the Paston Collection, are sealed with a grasshopper ; sufficient 
 refutation of a tradition accounting for the adoption of that heraldic symbol by Sir Thomas Gresham, 
 from a grasshopper having saved his life when he was a poor famished boy, by attracting a person to 
 the spot where he lay in a helpless condition ! Still, it were almost a pity to disturb the popular legend, 
 teaching, as it simply does, reliance upon God's providence.
 
 EXCHANGES, ROYAL. 323 
 
 On June G, 1566, the first stone of the Burse was laid in Cornhill, by Sir Thomas 
 Gresham and several aldermen, each of whom " laid a piece of gold, which the work- 
 men picked up." The City had previously purchased and taken down eighty houses, 
 and prepared the site ; the whole having been conveyed to Sir Thomas Gresham, who 
 " most frankly and lovingly" promised, that within a month after the Burse should be 
 finished, he would present it in equal moieties to the City and the Mercers' Company ; 
 as a pledge of which Gresham, before Alderman Rivers and other citizens, gave his 
 hand to Sir William Garrard, and drank a carouse to his kinsmen Thomas Howe. 
 "How rarely do ancient documents furnish us with such a picture of ancient manners!" 
 By November, 1567, the Burse was finished. ! As Flemish materials, Flemish work- 
 men, and a Flemish architect (Henryke) had been employed, so the design closely imi- 
 tated a Flemish building, the Great Burse of Antwerp. Two prints, date 1569, and 
 probably engraved by Gresham's order, show the exterior and interior : a quadrangle, 
 with an arcade ; a corridor, or pawn* of stalls above ; and in the high-pitched roof, 
 chambers with dormer-windows. On the east side of the Cornhill entrance was a lofty 
 bell-tower, from which, at twelve at noon and at six in the everting, was rung a bell, the 
 merchants' call to 'Change ; on the north side, a Corinthian column rose twice the 
 height of the building; and both tower and column surmounted by a grasshopper, also 
 placed at each corner of the quadrangle. The columns of the court were marble ; the 
 upper portion was laid out in a hundred shops, the lower in walks and rooms for 
 the merchants, with shops on the exterior. Thus there were the " Scotch Walk," 
 "Hambro'," and the "Irish," " East Country," "Swedish," "Norway," "American," 
 " .Jamaica," " Spanish," " Portugal," " French," " Greek," and " Dutch and Jewel- 
 lers' " walks. Long after the opening of the Burse, the shops remained " in a manner 
 empty;" when, upon a report that the Queen was about to visit it, Gresham prevailed 
 upon the shopkeepers in the upper pawn to furnish their shops with " wares and wax- 
 lights," on promise of " one year rent-free." The rent was then 40*. a shop, in two 
 years raised to four marks, and then to 4:1. 10s. a-year, all the shops being let. " Then 
 the milliners or haberdashers sold mouse-traps, bird-cages, shoeing-horns, Jews' 
 trumps, &c. ; armourers, that sold both old and new armour ; apothecaries, booksellers, 
 goldsmiths, and glass-sellers." (Howes.) All being prepared, on Jan. 23, 1570-1, 
 amidst the ringing of bells in every part of the City, " the Queen's Majesty, attended 
 with the nobility, came from her house in the Strand called Somerset House, and 
 entered the City by Temple Bar, through Fleet-street, Cheap, and so by the north side 
 of the Burse, through Threadneedle-street, to Sir Thomas Gresham's house in Bishops- 
 gate-street, where she dined. After dinner, her Majesty returning through Cornhill, 
 entered the Burse on the south side" (Stow) ; and having viewed the whole, especially 
 the pawne, which was richly furnished with the finest wares, the Queen caused the 
 Burse, by herald and trumpet, to be proclaimed " The Royal Exchange :" 
 
 " Proclaim through every high street of the city, 
 This place be no longer called a Bnrse ; 
 But since the building's stately, fair, and strange, 
 Be it for ever called the Royal Exchange." 
 Queen Elizabeth's Troubles, Part 2. A Play, by Thomas Hoywood, 1609. 
 
 Sir Thomas Gresham died suddenly, Nov. 21, 1579, in the evening, on his return 
 from the Exchange ; " being cut off by untymely death, having left a part of his royall 
 monument unperformed : that is, xxx. pictures (statues) of kings and queenes of this 
 land ; and to that purpose left thirty rooines (niches) to place them in." It was then 
 proposed that before any citizen should be elected alderman, he should be " enjoyned 
 to pay the charge of makyng and fynishing one of the forsaid kings or queenes theire 
 pictures, to be erected in the places aforesaid in the Exchange, not exceeding 100 
 nobles (661. 6s. 8d.) ; the pictures to be graven on wood, covered with lead, and then 
 gilded and paynted with oyle-cullors;" and the Court of Common Council subsequently 
 made the erection of one such statue a part of the fine for being freed from the office 
 
 * Corrupted from bahn, German for a path or walk. There is a curious tradition, not unsupported 
 by facts, that the framework of the Exchange was constructed upon Gresham's estate at Einxhall, near 
 Battisford, Suffolk, formerly rich in wood ; the remains of saw-pits are still discernible. The stone, 
 slates, iron, wainscot, and glass, were brought from Antwerp.
 
 324 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of Sheriff. The building was often in danger from feather-makers, and others that 
 kept shops in the upper pawne, using " pannes of fyer," which were therefore for- 
 bidden by an order of the Court of Aldermen. A print by Hollar, date 1644, shows the 
 merchants in full 'Change, with the picturesque costumes of the respective countries : 
 
 " The new-come traveller, 
 With his disguised coat and ringed ear, 
 Trampling the Bourse's marble twice a day." 
 
 The statues, from Edward the Confessor to Queen Elizabeth, were thus provided : and 
 subsequently James I., Charles I., and Charles II, The statue of Charles I. was re- 
 moved immediately after his execution, and on its pedestal was inscribed Exit tyran- 
 norum ultimus ; which was in turn removed, and replaced with a new statue, after the 
 Restoration. Here also, on May 28, 1661, the acts for establishing the Commonwealth 
 were burned by the hands of the common hangman. 
 
 Gresham's Exchange was almost entirely destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666 ; " when 
 the kings fell down upon their faces, and the greater part of the building after them, 
 the founder's statue only remaining." Pepys refers to " Sir Thomas Gresham in the 
 corner" as the only statue that was left standing. After the death of Sir Thomas 
 Gresham, the affairs of the Royal Exchange passed under the management of the 
 Gresham Committee, as the trustees appointed under his will, with certain members 
 nominated by the Corporation. Thus originated the Grand or Joint Committee, under 
 whose direction the Exchange was rebuilt after the Great Fire upon the old founda- 
 tions, by Edward Jerman, one of the City Surveyors, and not by Sir Christopher Wren, 
 as often stated; but Wren was consulted in the project of the rebuilding. Mr. Jupp, 
 of Carpenters' Hall, possesses two large and beautiful drawings of Jerman's design for 
 the building, executed in Indian ink upon vellum. Meanwhile, the merchants met 
 " in the gardens or walkes of Gresham College," being the site of the great court-yard 
 of the Excise Office ; on which a temporary Exchange was erected for a similar pur- 
 pose, after the burning of the second Exchange in 1838. 
 
 Among the payments for Jerman's buildings is one by the Committee to Sir John Denham, the poet, 
 " His Majestie's Surveyor-General of his Workes, for his trouble from time to time in coming down to 
 view the Exchange and streetes adjoining; as also in furthering theire addresses to his Majesty, and 
 giving them full warrants for Portland stone ;" the Committee therefore ordered provision to be made 
 " of six or eight dishes of meate att the Sun Tavern, on Wednesday next, to intertayne him withal at 
 his comeing downe, and to present him with thirty guinney-pieces of gold, as a toaken of theire 
 gratitude." 
 
 Among other entries, we find that Cains Gabriel Gibber was appointed carver ; the clock was to be 
 set up by Edward Stanton, under the direction of Dr. Hooke, having chimes with four bells, playing six 
 tunes ; William Wightman was to furnish a set of sound and tuneable bells, at 61. 5s. per cwt. ; four 
 balconies were to be made from the inner pawn into the quadrangle, at a charge of not more than 
 3001. ; and the signs to the shops in the pawns were not to be hung forth, but set over the frieze of 
 each shop. 
 
 The celebrated Sir Robert Viner, on March 22nd, 1668 (1669), proffered to give his Majesty's statue 
 on horseback, cut in white marble, to stand upon the Koyal Exchange : this offer was declined, because 
 of the "bignesse " of the statue, which Sir Robert Viner afterwards gave to be erected over the conduit 
 at Stocks'-market ; though the royal figure was an altered John Sobieski. 
 
 The King interested himself so far in the architectural appearance of the edifice as to desire that 
 portions might be built on all sides of the Exchange; and hence the difficulties which arose between the 
 Committee and the possessors of the property required ; and in especial with Van Swieten, or Sweetings, 
 as he is usually called. About seven hundred superficial feet were wanted of his ground at the east end 
 of the Exchange, and about one thousand four hundred feet more for a street or passage; for which he 
 declared that he expected to be paid according to the cheapest rate that any other ground should be 
 bought at. When, however, he appeared before the sub-committee, he demanded 1000?. for six hundred 
 and twenty-seven feet, which was thought so unreasonable that they laid it aside. 
 
 On Oct. 23rd, 1667, Charles II. fixed the first pillar on the west side of the north 
 entrance to the Exchange. " The King was entertained by the City and Company 
 with a chine of beef, grand dish of fowl, gammon of bacon, dried tongues, anchovies, 
 caviare, etc., and plenty of several sorts of wine. He gave 201. in gold to the work- 
 men. The interteynment was in a shedd built and adorned on purpose, upon the 
 Scotch walke." On the 31st, the Duke of York founded the corresponding pier; and 
 on Nov. 18th, Prince Rupert fixed the pillar on the east side of the south entrance; 
 both princes being similarly entertained. 
 
 This second Exchange was opened Sept. 28, 1669 ; its cost, 58,962?., being defrayed 
 in equal moieties by the City and the Mercers' Company. It was quadrangular in 
 plan, and had its arcades, pawn above, and statues in niches, like Gresham's Exchange ;
 
 EXCHANGES, ROYAL. 325 
 
 it had also a three-storied tower, with lantern and gilt grasshopper vane. The edifice 
 thus remained until the extensive repairs of 1820-26 (George Smith, architect), when 
 a stone tower, 128 feet high, was built on the south front, in place of the timber one : 
 these repairs cost 33,000/., including 60001. for stone staircases and floors. The Corn- 
 hill front had a lofty archway, with four Corinthian columns ; emblematic statues of 
 the four quarters of the globe ; statues of Charles I. and II. by Bushnell ; statue of 
 Gresham by E. Pierce ; four busts of Queen Elizabeth ; alto-relievos of Britannia, the 
 Arts and Sciences, &c., and of Queen Elizabeth and her heralds proclaiming the original 
 Exchange. The area within the quadrangle was paved with " Turkey stones ;" in the 
 centre was a statue of Charles II. by Gibbons ; in the arcade was a statue of Uresham 
 by Gibber; and of Sir John Barnard, placed there in his lifetime (temp. George II.). 
 The arcade and area were arranged, nominally, into distinct walks for the merchants. 
 
 " For half an hour he feeds : and when he's done, 
 In 's elbow-chair he takes a nap till one ; 
 From thence to 'Change he hurries in a heat 
 (Where knaves and fools in mighty numbers meet, 
 And kindly mix the bubble with the cheat) ; 
 There barters, buys and sells, receives and pays, 
 And turns the pence a hundred several ways. 
 In that great hive, where markets rise and fall, 
 And swarms of muckworms round its pillars crawl, 
 He, like the rest, as busy as a bee, 
 Remains among the henpeck'd herd till three." 
 
 Wealthy Shopkeeper, 1700. 
 
 The royal statues were, on the south side, Edward I., Edward III., Henry V., and 
 Henry VI. ; on the west, Edward IV., Edward V., Henry VII., and Henry VIII. ; on 
 the north, Edward VI., Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, James I., Charles I., Charles II., 
 and James II. ; on the east were William and Mary, in a double niche, George I., 
 George II., and George III. These figures were in armour and Roman costume, the 
 Queens in the dresses of their respective times ; most of them were originally gilt. 
 George III. was sculptured by Wilton, George I. and George II. by Rysbrack, and the 
 major part of the others by Caius Gabriel Gibber. 
 
 Originally, the offices in the upper floors were let as shops for rich and showy arti- 
 cles ; but they were forsaken in 1739 (Maitland), and the galleries were subsequently 
 occupied by the Royal Exchange Assurance Offices, Lloyd's Coffee-house, the Merchant 
 Seamen's Office, the Gresham Lecture-room, and the Lord Mayor's Court Office : the 
 latter a row of offices divided by glazed partitions, the name of the attorney being in- 
 scribed in large capitals upon a projecting board. The vaults beneath the Exchange 
 were let to different bankers ; and the East India Company, for the stowage of pepper. 
 Surrounding the exterior were shops, chiefly tenanted by lottery-office keepers, news- 
 paper-offices, watch and clock makers, notaries, stock -brokers, &c. The tower con- 
 tained a clock, with four dials, and chimes, and four wind-dials. 
 
 On Jan. 18th, 1838, this Exchange was entirely burnt : the fire commenced in 
 Lloyd's Rooms shortly after 10 P.M., and before three next morning the clock-tower 
 alone remained, the dials indicating the exact times at which the flames reached them : 
 north at Ih. 25m. ; south, 2h. 5m. : the last air, played by the chimes at 12, was, 
 " There's nae luck about the house."* The conflagration was seen twenty-four miles 
 round London ; the roar of the wind, and the rush and crackling of the flames, the 
 falling of huge timbers, and the crash of roof and walls, were a fearful spectacle. 
 
 At the sale of the salvage, the porter's large hand-bell, rung daily before closing the 'Change (with 
 the handle burnt), fetched 31. 3>. ; City Griffins, 301. and 351. the pair ; busts of Queen Elizabeth, 101. 15*. 
 and 181. the pair ; figures of Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, 110Z. ; the statue of Anne, \0l. 5. ; 
 George II., 91. 5.; George III. and Elizabeth, III. 15*. each ; Charles II., 92.; and the sixteen other 
 royal statues similar sums. The copper-gilt grasshopper vane was reserved. 
 
 Mr. Scott, the Chamberlain of London, states, that if, from the Great Fire in 1666, when the first 
 Royal Exchange was destroyed, down to 1839, when it was a second time destroyed by fire, a sum equiva- 
 lent to the fire-insurance rate of 2*. per cent, and 3s. duty had been annually raised and allowed to 
 accumulate, it would have been sufficient to defray forty-seven and a half times over the cost of 200,UOW. 
 for rebuilding the Exchange as it now exists. 
 
 After an interval of nearly four years, the rebuilding of the Exchange was com- 
 
 * The chimes played at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock on Sunday, the 104th Psalm ; Monday, " God save the 
 King ;" Tuesday, " Waterloo March ;" Wednesday, " There's nae luck about the house ;" Thursday, 
 " See the conquering hero comes;" Friday, "Life let us cherish;" Saturday, "Foot-Guards' March."
 
 326 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 menced from the designs of William Tite, F.R.S. ; the site being enlarged by the removal 
 of Bank-buildings, west of the old Exchange, and the buildings eastward, nearly to 
 Finch-lane. In excavating for the foundations was found a deep pit full of remains of 
 Roman London, specimens of which are preserved in the Museum at Guildhall. (See 
 COENHILL, p. 291.) Mr. Tite thinks it probable that " this pit had been sunk during 
 the earliest times of the Roman occupation of London, for the mere purpose of obtain- 
 ing the gravel, required perhaps for making a causeway or road across the banks of the 
 adjoining marshy stream of the Wall-Brook. When the excavation had served this 
 purpose, it remained for years (perhaps centuries), forming a dirty pond to receive the 
 refuse and rubbish of all the neighbourhood, and in this way it must have been gra- 
 dually filled up; at the time of building the Roman wall the accumulation was firm 
 enough again to receive a bed of gravel, slightly concreted, laid on the top of the mud, 
 so as to be covered up and become apparently solid ground. The builders of the Old 
 Exchange, however, found out its deficiency, and supported their work on piles, which 
 had evidently yielded." The foundation-stone of the new Exchange was laid by Prince 
 Albert, on Monday, Jan. 17th, 1842, in the mayoralty of Alderman Pirie ; the circum- 
 stances being recorded in a Latin and English inscription upon a zinc plate, placed in 
 the foundation-stone. The Exchange was completed within the short space of three 
 years, for somewhat less than the architect's estimate, 137,600. ; or, including the 
 sculpture, architect's commission, &c., 150,0002. 
 
 The new Exchange was formally opened by her Majesty, Oct. 28, 1844, when the Royal and Civic Pro- 
 
 The Royal Exchange, first opened for business Jan. 1, 1845, stands nearly due east 
 and west; extreme length, 308 feet; west width, 119 feet; east, 175 feet. The foun- 
 dation is concrete, in parts 18 feet thick ; and the walls and piers are tied together by 
 arches, the piers strengthened by beds of wrought-iron hooping. The foundation of 
 Gresham's Exchange, as just stated, was laid upon piles. The architecture is florid, and 
 even exuberant, characteristic of commercial opulence and civic state. The leading 
 idea of the plan is from the Pantheon at Rome : material, finest Portland stone. 
 
 The West front has a portico " very superior in dimensions to any in Great Britain, 
 and not inferior to any in the world." It is 96 feet wide and 74 high, and has eight 
 columns (the architect's Composite), 4 feet 2 inches in diameter and 41 feet high, with 
 two intercolumniations in actual projection, and the centre also deeply recessed; the 
 interior of the portico is strikingly magnificent, in the vastness of the columns, and the 
 beauty of the roof of three arches, enriched after a Roman palace. Flanking the cen- 
 tral doorway are two Venetian windows, with the architect's monogram, W. T., beneath. 
 
 On the frieze of the portico is inscribed : ANNO xni. ELIZABETHS B. COKDITVM. ANXO vni. VICTOBIA 
 E. BESTAVBATVM. Over the central doorway are the Royal arms, by Carew. The key-stone has the mer- 
 chant's mark of Gresham; and the key-stones of the side arches, the arms of the merchant adventurers 
 of his day, and the staple of Calais. North and south of the portico, and in the attic, are the City sword 
 and mace, with the date of Queen Elizabeth's reign and 1844; and in the lower panels, mantles bearing 
 the initials of Queen Elizabeth and Queen Victoria respectively : the imperial crown is 12 inches in relief, 
 and 7 feet high. The tympanum of the pediment of the portico is filled with sculpture, by Richard 
 Westmacott, R.A. ; consisting of 17 figures, carved in limestone, nearly all entire and detached. The 
 centre figure is Commerce, with her mural crown, 10 feet high, upon two dolphins and a shell ; she 
 holds the charter of the Exchange : on her right is a group of three British merchants, as lord mayor, 
 alderman, and common-councilman; a Hindoo and a Mahommedan, a Greek bearing a jar, and a 
 Turkish merchant : on the left are two British merchants and a Persian, a Chinese, a Levant sailor, a 
 negro, a British sailor, and a supercargo : the opposite angles are filled with anchors, jars, packages, 
 &c. Upon the pedestal of Commerce is this inscription : " THE EABTH is THE LOBD'S, AND THE 
 FULNESS THEBEOF." Psalm xxiv. 1. The ascent to the portico is by thirteen granite steps. 
 
 The East front has four composite columns, which support the tower, in the first 
 story of which is a statue of Sir Thomas Gresham, 14 feet 6 inches high, by Behnes; 
 above are the clock-faces ; arid next a circular story, with Composite columns and a
 
 EXCHANGES, EOYAL. 327 
 
 dome carved in leaves, surmounted by the original grasshopper vane, of copper gilt, 
 11 feet long ; height of tower and vane, 177 feet. Beneath the tower is the great 
 eastern entrance to an oblong open area, where are the entrances to Lloyd's Rooms 
 and the Merchants' Area. 
 
 The Clock was manufactured by Mr. Dent in 1843, and has since been pronounced by the Astro- 
 nomer Royal to be the best public clock in the world ; the pendulum, which weighs nearly 4 cwt., is 
 compensated, and the first stroke of the hour is true to a second. This clock has Mr. Airey's construc- 
 tion of the going- fuzee introduced, by which the winding is effected without stopping the motion. This 
 clock is a great improvement on that placed in this building in Sir Thomas Gresham's days, respecting 
 which it was reported, in 1624, that " the Exchange clocke was pr'sented for not being kept well, it 
 standing in one of the most eminent places in the Cittie, and being the worst kept of any clock in that 
 Cittie." 
 
 The Chimes consist of a set of fifteen bells, by Mears, cost 5001. ; the largest being also the hour- 
 bell of the clock. In the chime-work, by Dent, there are two hammers to several of the bells, so as to 
 play rapid passages ; and three and five hammers strike different bells simultaneously. All irregularity 
 of force is avoided by driving the chime-barrel through wheels and pinions ; there are no wheels be- 
 tween the weight that pulls and the hammer to be raised ; the lifts on the chime-barrel are all epicy- 
 eloidal curves ; and there are 6000 holes pierced upon the barrel for the lifts, so as to allow the tunes to 
 be varied : the present airs are, " God save the Queen," " The Roast Beef of Old England," " Rule 
 Britannia," and the 104th Psalm. The bells, in substance, form, dimensions, &c., are Irom the Bow- 
 bells patterns ; still, they are thought to be too large for the tower. 
 
 The South front has a line of pilasters, upon ground-floor rusticated arches ; the 
 three middle spaces deeply recessed, and having richly-embellished windows, a cornice, 
 balustrade and attic. Above the three centre arches are the Gresham, City, and 
 Mercers' Company arms, which are repeated on the east front entablature. 
 
 The North front has a projecting centre, and otherwise differs from the south : in 
 niches are statues of Sir Hugh Myddelton, by Joseph ; and Sir Richard Whittington, 
 by Carew. Over the centre arch is Gresham's motto, Fortun a my ; on the dexter, the 
 City motto, Due. dirige nos ; and on the sinister, the Mercers' Company, Honor Deo. 
 
 The principal or First floor has four suites of apartments : 1. Lloyd's, east and 
 north ; 2. Royal Exchange Assurance, west ; 3. London Assurance Corporation, south ; 
 4. Offices originally intended for Gresham College, south and west. 
 
 The Ground-floor externally, as in the two former Exchanges, is occupied by shops 
 and offices, each having a mezzanine and basement. 
 
 The Interior consists of the open Merchants' Area, resembling the cortile of an 
 Italian palace ; its form, as that of the building, is parallelogram, and the inner area 
 exactly a double square. The ground-floor is a Doric colonnade, and rusticated arches ; 
 the upper floor has Ionic columns, with arches and windows, and an enriched parapet, 
 pierced. The key-stones of the upper arches are sculptured with national arms, in the 
 order determined at the Congress of Vienna. At the north-east angle is a statue of 
 Elizabeth, by Watson ; at the south-east, Gibbons's marble statue of Charles II., for- 
 merly in the centre of the old Exchange, nearly upon the spot where is now a marble 
 statue of Queen Victoria, by Lough : the sovereigns in whose reigns the three 
 Exchanges were built. 
 
 The encaustic decorations of the Ambulatories having become obscured, the plaster-work was 
 removed in 1859-60, and replaced by fresco-painting, designed by Sang, executed by Beensen, of Munich. 
 Above the west and principal entrance, are placed the Gresham arms; those of Sir Thomas Gres- 
 ham, the founder of the institution, in combination with the arms of the Mercers' Company, to which 
 he belonged ; together with the City arms. On the panel of the ceiling immediately within this entrance 
 are the Royal arms. To the right are the national arms of Sweden and Norway ; and proceeding round 
 by the right, next are the following national and distinguished arms, emblazoned on the various panels 
 in the order : Prussia, the East Indies, Australia, Brazil, America, Portugal, Naples, Spain, Italy, 
 Greece, France, Austria, Holland ; followed by those of Brandenburg, Hamburg, and Lubeck, conjoined 
 with and succeeded by those of Hanover, Bavaria, Scotland, Ireland, Denmark, Schleswig-Holstein, 
 China, Turkey, and Russia. On the upper corners of the panels crests of various members of the 
 Gresham committee, under whose direction the building is maintained, have been placed ; their names 
 will be found recorded on a granite slab which occupies the south-west corner of the building. The 
 ceiling panels are interspersed with the Gresham, the Mercers', and the City arms, together with the 
 mottoes of the two latter, "Honor Deo "and " Domine dirigenos," in numerous designs and combina- 
 tions ; while above the statues of Elizabeth and Charles II. the Royal arms are again conspicuous. The 
 different Walks of the Merchants and their peculiar trades are in these new decorations much more 
 readily recognisable by the coats of arms of the respective countries, and each particular trade is repre- 
 sented according to the ancient custom resorted to by the frequenters of the Royal Exchange. The 
 temporary decorations had little or no reference to this important question, but now the coats of arms 
 form the chief ornaments of the large arched panels of the walls, the borders of which are filled with a 
 rich Raphaelesque margin upon a purple ground, intersected with emblematic medallions, the main or 
 central leading colour being an aerial and sunny yellow of the most cheerful hue.
 
 328 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 " Here are the same old- favoured spots, changed though they be in appearance ; and notwithstanding 
 we have lost the great Rothschild, Jeremiah Harman, Daniel Hardcastle (the Page No. 1 of the Times), 
 the younger Rothschilds occupy a pillar on the south side of the Exchange, much in the same place as 
 their father; and the Barings, the Bateses, the Salomons, the Doxats, the Durrants, the Crawshays, the 
 Curries, and the Wilsons, and other influential merchants, still come and go, as in olden days." (City, 
 2nd edit.) Many sea-captains and brokers still go on 'Change ; but the " Walks " are disregarded. The 
 hour of High 'Change is from past 3 to \ past 4 P.M., the two great days being Tuesday and Friday for 
 foreign exchanges. 
 
 Lloyd's Subscription Rooms are approached by a fine Italian staircase ; the stairs 
 are each a single block of Cragleith granite, 14 feet long. In the vestibule is a marble 
 statue of Prince Albert, by Lough ; a marble statue, by Gibson, R.A., of the late Mr. 
 Huskisson, presented by his widow ; a mural testimonial to the Times' exposure of a 
 fraudulent conspiracy in 1851 ; and a monument to John Lydekker, Esq., who be- 
 queathed 58,00(M. to the Seamen's Hospital Society : it has figures of disabled seamen, 
 and a scene from the Southern Whale Fishery. 
 
 Lloyd's is the rendezvous of the most eminent merchants, shipowners, underwriters, 
 insurance, stock, and exchange brokers, &c. Here is obtained the earliest news of the 
 arrival and sailing of vessels, losses at sea, captures, re-captures, engagements, and other 
 shipping intelligence; and the proprietors of ships and freights are insured by the 
 underwriters. 
 
 Lloyd's originated with a coffee-house keeper of that name, at the corner of Ab- 
 church-lane, Lombard-street : 
 
 " To Lloyd's Coffee-house, he never fails 
 'i'o read the letters and attend the sales." Wealthy ShopJceeper,l700. 
 
 In 1710, Steele dates from Lloyd's (Taller, No. 246) his Petition on Coffee-house 
 Orators and Newsvenders ; and Addison, in Spectator, April 23, 1711, speaks of the 
 auction pulpit at Lloyd's : but the auction business was transferred to Garrawny's 
 Coffee-house. Lloyd's was subsequently removed to Pope's Head-alley, and in 1774 to 
 the north-west corner of the Royal Exchange, where it remained until the fire in 
 1838 ; the subscribers then met at the South-Sea House, till they returned to their 
 present location in the new Exchange. The rooms are in the Venetian style, with 
 Roman enrichments. They are: 1. The Subscribers' or Underwriters', the Mer- 
 chants', and the Captains' Room. The Subscribers' Boom is 100 feet long by 48 feet 
 wide, and is opened at 10 o'clock and closed at 5 : annual subscription, four guineas; 
 if an underwriter or insurance-broker, he pays also an entrance-fee of twenty-five 
 guineas ; admissions and questions determined by ballot, each underwriter having his 
 own seat. At the entrance of the room are exhibited the Shipping Lists, received from 
 Lloyd's agents at home and abroad, and affording particulars of departures or arrivals 
 of vessels, wrecks, salvage, or sale of property saved, &c. To the right and left are 
 " Lloyd's Books," two enormous ledgers : right hand, ships " spoken with," or arrived 
 at their destined ports ; left hand, records of wrecks, fires, or severe collisions, written 
 in a fine Roman hand, in " double lines." To assist the underwriters in their calcula- 
 tions, at the end of the room is an Anemometer, which registers the state of the wind 
 day and night; attached is a rain-gauge. 
 
 On the roof of the Exchange is a sort of mast, at the top of which is a fan, like that of a windmill, 
 the object of which is to keep a plate of metal with its face presented to the wind. Attached to this 
 plate are springs, which, joined to a rod, descend into the Underwriters' Room upon a large sheet of 
 paper placed against the wall. To this end of the rod a lead-pencil is attached, which slowly traverses 
 the paper horizontally, by means of clock-work. When the wind blows very hard against the plate 
 outside, the spring, being pressed, pushes down the rod, and the pencil makes a long line down the 
 paper vertically, which denotes a high wind. At the bottom of the sheet, another pencil moves, guided 
 by a vane on the outside, which so directs its course horizontally that the direction of the wind is shown. 
 The sheet of paper is divided into squares, numbered with the hours of night and day ; and the clock- 
 work so moves the pencils, that they take exactly an hour to traverse each square : hence the strength 
 and direction of the wind at any hour of the twenty-four are easily seen. 
 
 The subscribers number about 1900 ; and, with the underwriters, represent the greater 
 part of the mercantile wealth of the country. (See City, 2nd edit, pp. 108 to 122.) 
 Above the Subscribers' Room is the Chart-room, where hangs an extensive collection 
 of maps and charts. 
 
 The Merchants' Room is superintended by a master, who can speak several lan- 
 guages : here are duplicate copies of the books in the underwriters' room, and files of 
 English and foreign newspapers.
 
 EXCHANGES. 329 
 
 The Captains' Boom is a kind of coffee-room, where merchants and ship-owners meet 
 captains, and sales of ships, &c. take place. 
 
 The members of Lloyd's have ever been distinguished by their loyalty and benevolent spirit. In 
 1802, they voted 2000?. to the Life-boat subscription. On July 20, 1803, at the invasion panic, they 
 commenced the Patriotic Fund with 20,000?. 3 per cent, consols; besides 70,312?. 7. individual subscrip- 
 tions, and 15,000?. additional donations. After the battle of the Nile, in 1798, they collected for the 
 widows and wounded seamen 32,423?. ; and after Lord Howe's victory, June 1, 1794, for similar pur- 
 poses, 21,281?. They have also contributed 5000?. to the London Hospital; 1000?. for the suffering 
 inhabitants of Russia in 1813 ; 1000?. for the relief of the militia in our North American colonies, 1813 ; 
 and 10,000?. for the Waterloo subscription, in 1815. The Committee vote medals and rewards to those 
 who distinguish themselves in saving life from shipwreck. 
 
 Lloyd's Register of British and Foreign Shipping, No. 2, White-lion-court, Corn- 
 hill, was originally established in 1760, and re-established in 1834, and gives the class 
 and standing of vessels, date of building and where built, materials, &c., ascertained by 
 careful surveys ; but is a distinct body from Lloyd's Subscription Rooms. 
 
 The entrance-gates in each front of the Exchange are fine specimens of iron-casting, 
 bronzed. The western or principal gates, cast by Grissell, are 22^ feet high, 11 feet 
 4 inches wide. The design is Elizabethan : on the flanks and around the semicircle, 
 are the shields of the twelve great City companies ; in the crown of the arch, Gresham's 
 arms, and beneath is his bust, upon a mural crown, backed by the civic mace and 
 sword ; on the panels are the arms of Elizabeth and Victoria. 
 
 The cost of enlarging the site, including improvements and widening of Cornhill, 
 Freeman's-court, Broad-street, and removal of the church of St. Benet Fink, the 
 French Protestant Church, Bank-buildings, SweetingValley, &c., was 223,578. Is. IQd. 
 City Chamberlain's Return, October 30, 1851. 
 
 " Sir Thomas Gresham left the Exchange during the life of his widow to her use ; and at her death, 
 he left his mansion in Threndneedle-street, since occupied by the Excise Office, for a college, to be called 
 Gresham College, as a London University, the funds for its support being provided by the rents of the 
 shops and pawns of the Exchange. By the Great Fire, this source of income was entirely cut off; and 
 not only so, but the two Corporations of the City of London and the Mercers' Company incurred a debt 
 of nearly 60,000?. in rebuilding the Exchange. They, notwithstanding, out of their own resources con- 
 tinued the College until the year 1745, when the debt amounted to 111,000?. In 1768, the College was 
 put an end to by an Act of Parliament, and the site let to the Commissioners of Excise. The Gresham 
 Professors were always continued, and gave their lectures in a room in the Exchange up to the fire of 
 1838. The Gresham Committee have, from their own funds, rebuilt Gresham College, in Gresham- 
 street, at an expense of upwards of 15,000?. : and the debt incurred by the two Corporations, in main- 
 taining the Exchange and rebuilding it twice, in maintaining the Gresham Professors, and some alms- 
 houses founded also by Sir Thomas Gresham, amounts now to considerably more than 200,000?." W. 
 Tite, F.E.S. 
 
 A large medal, by Wyon, R.A., bears on the obverse Lough's statue of the Queen in 
 profile ; on the reverse is a bust in high relief of Gresham, in the cap and starched 
 frill of his period. 
 
 COAL EXCHANGE. Three hundred years ago, when the use of coal instead of wood 
 had only just commenced in the metropolis, two or three ships were enough for the 
 supply. A charter of Edward II. shows Derbyshire coal to have been then used in 
 London, though a proclamation of Edward I. shows its introduction as a substitute for 
 wood to have been much opposed; and in the reign of Elizabeth, the burning of stone- 
 coal was prohibited during the sitting of Parliament, lest it should affect the health of 
 the members. An Exchange for the trade in the new fuel was early established. 
 
 The " Coal Exchange," up to 1807, was in the hands of private individuals ; in that 
 year it was purchased by the Coi-poration for 25,600/. In 1845, the coal-trade peti- 
 tioned for the enlargement and rebuilding of the Exchange. This was done by the 
 City architect, J. B. Bunning; and the new Exchange was opened with great Iclat, by 
 Prince Albert, accompanied by the Prince of Wales and the Princess Royal, Oct. 29,
 
 330 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 1849 ; when the Lord Mayor (Duke), himself a coal-merchant, received a patent of 
 baronetcy. The Exchange has two principal fronts of Portland stone, in the Italian 
 style, one in Lower Thames-street, and the other in St. Mary-at-Hill ; with an en- 
 trance at the corner by a semicircular portico, with Roman-Doric columns, and a tower 
 106 feet high, within which is the principal staircase. The public hall, or area for 
 the merchants, is a rotunda 60 feet in diameter, covered by a glazed dome, 74 feet 
 from the floor. This circular hall has three tiers of projecting galleries running round 
 it ; the stancheons, galleries, ribs of dome, &c. are iron, of which about 300 tons 
 are used. The floor of the rotunda is composed of 4000 pieces of inlaid woods, 
 in the form of a mariner's compass, within a border of Greek fret : in the centre 
 are the City shield, anchor, &c. ; the dagger-blade in the arms being a piece of a 
 mulberry-tree planted by Peter the Great, when he is stated to have worked as a ship- 
 wright in Deptford Dockyard. 
 
 The entrance vestibule is richly embellished with vases of fruit, arabesque foliage, 
 terminal figures, &c. In the rotunda, between the Raphaelesque scroll supports, are 
 panels painted with impersonations of the coal-bearing rivers of England : the Thames, 
 Mersey, Severn, Trent, Hurnber, Aire, Tyne, &c. : and above them, within flower- 
 borders, are figures of Wisdom, Fortitude, Vigilance, Temperance, Perseverance, 
 Watchfulness, Justice, and Faith. The arabesques in the first story are views of coal- 
 mines : Wallsend, Percy Pit-Main, Regent's Pit, &c. The second and third story 
 panels are painted with miners at work : and the twenty-four ovals at the springing of the 
 dome have upon a turquoise-blue ground figures of fossil plants found in coal-formations. 
 The minor ornamentation is flowers, shells, snakes, lizards, and other reptiles, and 
 nautical subjects. The whole is in polychrome, by Sang. The gallery-fronts and 
 other iron-work are cable pattern. The cost of the enlarged site, the building, and 
 approaches, was 91,167Z. lls. 8d. 
 
 In a basement on the east side of the Exchange are the remains of a Roman bath, 
 in excellent preservation, discovered in excavating the foundations of the new building ; 
 there is a convenient access to this interesting relic of Roman London. 
 
 COBN EXCHANGE (the), Mark-lane, was established in 1747, when the present 
 system of factorage commenced. It consists of an open Doric colonnade, within which 
 the factors have their stands; it resembles the atrium, or place of audience, in a 
 Pompeian house ; with its impluvium, the place in the centre in which the rain fell. 
 ( W. H. Leeds.) In 1827-8, adjoining was built a second Corn Exchange (G. Smith, 
 architect) : it has a central Grecian-Doric portico, surmounted by the imperial arms 
 and agricultural emblems ; the ends have corresponding pilasters. Here lightermen 
 and granary -keepers have stands, as well as corn-merchants, factors and millers ; the 
 ceed market is in another part of the building. 
 
 " This is the only metropolitan market for corn, grain, and seeds. The m&rket-days are Monday, 
 Wednesday, and Friday ; hours, ten to three. Wheat is paid for in bills at one month, and other corn 
 and grain in bills at two months. The Kentish ' hoymen,' distinguishable by their sailor's jackets, have 
 stands free of expense, and pay less for metage and dues than others ; and the Essex dealers enjoy some 
 privileges : in both cases said to be in consideration of the men of Kent and Essex having continued 
 to supply the City when it was ravaged by the Plague." Knight's London, vol. iii. p. 365. 
 
 KING'S EXCHANGE (the), " for the receipt of bullion to be coined," was in Old 
 Exchange, now Old 'Change, Cheapside. 
 
 " It was here that one of those ancient officers, known as the King's Exchanger, was placed ; whose 
 duty it was to attend to the supply of the Mints with bullion, to distribute the new coinage, and to 
 regulate the exchange of foreign coin. Of these officers there were anciently three : two in London, at 
 the Tower and Old Exchange, and one in the City of Canterbury. Subsequently, another was appointed 
 with an establishment in Lombard-street, the ancient rendezvous of the merchants ; and it appears not 
 improbable that Queen Elizabeth's intention was to have removed this functionary to what was pre- 
 eminently designated by her ' the Eoyal Exchange,' and hence the reason for the change of the name of 
 this edifice by Elizabeth." W. Tite, FJR.S. 
 
 No. 36, Old 'Change was formerly the " Three Morrice-Dancers " public-house, with 
 the three figures sculptured on a stone as the sign and an ornament, (temp. James I.) : 
 the house was taken down about 1801 : there is an etching of this very characteristic 
 sign-stone. 
 
 NEW EXCHANGE, en the south side of the Strand, was built by the Earl of Salisbury 
 on the site of the stables of Durham House, and was opened by James I. and his
 
 EXCHANGES. 331 
 
 queen, who named it " the Bursse of Britain." It was erected partly on the plan of the 
 Itoyal Exchange, with vaults beneath, over which was an open paved arcade; and above 
 were walks of shops occupied by perfamers and publishers, milliners and sempstresses : 
 
 " The sempstress speeds to 'Change with red-tipt nose." Gay's Trivia, b. ii. 1. 337. 
 When, at the Restoration, Covent Garden rose to be a fashionable quarter, the New 
 Exchange became very popular. It is a favourite scene with the dramatists of the 
 reign of Charles II., and was the great resort of the gallants of that day. At the 
 "Three Spanish Gipsies," in the New Exchange, lived Anne Clarges, married to 
 Thomas Ratford, who there sold wash-balls, powder, gloves, &c., and she taught girls 
 plain work. Anne became sempstress to Colonel Monk, and used to carry him linen : 
 " she was a woman," says Lord Clarendon, " of the lowest extraction, without either 
 wit or beauty;" but who contrived to captivate Monk, " old George," and was married 
 to him at St. George's Church, Southwark, in 1G52, it is believed while her first hus- 
 band was living. " She became the laughing-stock of the court, and gave general 
 disgust." (Pepys, iii. 75.) She died Duchess of Albemarle, leaving a son, Christopher, 
 who succeeded to the Dukedom ; he is said to have been " suckled by Honour Mills, 
 who sold apples, herbs, oysters, &c." At the Revolution, in 1688, there sat in the 
 New Exchange, as a sempstress, Francis Jennings, the reduced Duchess of Tyrconnel, 
 wife to Richard Talbot, lord-deputy of Ireland under James II. : she supported herself 
 for a few days (till she was known, and otherwise provided for) by the little trade of 
 this place : to avoid detection, she sat in a white mask and a white dress, and was 
 therefore known as " the white widow."* Another romantic story is told of the place. 
 In November, 1653, a quarrel having arisen in the public walk of the Exchange be- 
 tween M. Gerard (at that time engaged in a plot against Cromwell) and Don Panta- 
 leon Sa (brother to the Portuguese ambassador) ; the latter next day came to the Ex- 
 change, accompanied by assassins, who mistaking another person, then walking with 
 his sister and mistress, for M. Gerard, seized upon him, and stabbed him to death with 
 their poniards. For this crime Don Pantaleon was condemned to death ; and, by a 
 strange coincidence, he suffered on the same scaffold with M. Gerard, whose plot had 
 been discovered. 
 
 The Exchange latterly became famous for its exhibitions of waxwork, and for a 
 magnificent stock of English and foreign china kept for sale ; but by the intrigues, 
 assignations, and indecent licenses of the fops with the milliners, the place lost its 
 character, was little resorted to after the death of Queen Anne, and in 1737 was taken 
 down, and the site covered with houses ; the name is retained in Exchange-court. 
 
 In the Strand, exactly opposite Ivy Bridge (a short distance east of the New Exchange site), Thomas 
 Parr, the "olde olde man," had lodgings, when he came to London to be shewn as a curiosity to 
 Charles I. The authority for this fact is a Mr. Greening, who in the year 1814, being then about 90 
 years of age, mentioned it to the author, saying that he perfectly well remembered, when a boy, having- 
 been shown the house by his grandfather, then 88 years of age. The house, which stood at the com- 
 mencement of the present century, had been known for more than 50 years as the " Queen's Head" 
 public-house. Smith's Streets of London, edit. 1849, p. 145. 
 
 STOCK EXCHANGE, the heart of "the Bank for the whole world" (Rothschild), is 
 in Capel-court, Bartholomew-lane, facing the eastern front of the Bank of England. 
 The speculators in stock, who greatly increased with the National Debt, hitherto met 
 at Jonathan's Coffee-house, Change-alley; then at a room in Threadneedle-street, 
 admission 6d. ; and bargains in stocks were next made in the Bank rotunda. In 1801, 
 the present building was commenced by subscription (James Peacock, architect), in 
 Capel-court, the site of the offices and residence of Sir William Capel, lord mayor in 
 1504. The inscription placed beneath the foundation-stone states, "at this era the 
 public funded debt had accumulated in five successive reigns to 552,730,924Z. ;" adding 
 propitiatorily, " the inviolate faith of the British nation, and the principles of the con- 
 stitution, sanction and secure the property embarked in this undertaking. May the 
 blessing of that constitution be secured to the latest posterity !" The building was 
 opened March, 1802 ; and in 1822 the business in the foreign funds was removed here 
 from the Royal Exchange. 
 
 The Stock Exchange was considerably enlarged in 1854, at the expense of 20,OOOZ. 
 
 * This anecdote was ingeniously dramatised by Mr. Douglas Jerrold; and produced at Covent-garden 
 Theatre, in 1840, as " The White Milliner."
 
 332 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The fabric belongs to a private Company, consisting of 400 shareholders ; and the shares were 
 originally of 501. each, but are now of uncertain amount. The affairs of this Company are 
 conducted, under a deed of settlement, by nine "managers," elected for life by the shareholders. 
 The members or subscribers, however, entirely conduct their own affairs by a Committee of thirty of 
 their own body. There are three branches, or houses : the English, for stocks and Exchequer- 
 bills ; the Foreign, for stocks ; and the Kailway or Share-market, a market for mining shares 
 being added in 1850. Lists are daily published of the prices of stocks and shares, and twice 
 a week of bullion and foreign exchanges. The members give security to the Stock Exchange Com- 
 mittee, partly as a guarantee of their own individual respectability, and partly of their good faith. In 
 some cases they give sureties to the amount of 9001., and in others of 5001. or 6001. ; the smaller amount 
 being required of brokers who have for some time before been recognised clerks of members of the Stock 
 Exchange ; but in all cases, the time during which such security lasts is limited to two years. The 
 money received in the event of defalcation by a broker from his sureties goes solely to the members of 
 the Stock Exchange ; and the bonds given to the Stock Exchange are required for the protection of 
 that body only, and not for the public. Each member, as well as the Committee, has to meet the proba- 
 tion of re-election every Lady-day. A bankrupt ceases to be a member, and cannot be re-admitted 
 unless he pays 6s. 8d. in the pound beyond that collected from his debtors. The names of defaulters 
 are posted on the " black board," and they are termed " lame ducks ;" this rule was established in 1787, 
 when twenty-five " lame ducks waddled out of the Alley." To avoid a libel, the notice runs thus : " Any 
 person transacting business with A. B. is requested to communicate with C. D." Only members are 
 allowed to transact business at the Stock Exchange, as notified at each entrance; and strangers who 
 stray in are quickly hustled out : but a view of the Exchange can be obtained through the glass-doors 
 in the entrance from Hercules-court. The brokers usually deal with the jobbers ; and among the 
 Exchange cries are, " Borrow money ?"" What are Exchequer ?"" Five with me," "Ten with me," 
 making up a strange Babel. "A thousand pounds' consols at 96J-964." ("Take 'em at 96|," is the 
 vociferous reply of a buyer:) "Mexican at 27^-27; Portuguese fours at 32J-324 ; Spanish fives at 21; 
 Dutch two-and-a-halfs at 50^-50J :" and so on till the hour for closing strikes. Railway companies and 
 bankers often lend large sums, and bankers are sometimes borrowers, as are also the Bank of England 
 and were the East India Company. The fluctuations in the rate of interest enjoin " watching the turn of 
 the market ;" for, on the same day, money has been lent at 4 per cent, in the morning, and at 2 o'clock 
 could scarcely be borrowed at 10 per cent. 
 
 The Stock Exchange has had its vocabulary of terms for than a century traceable 
 to the early transactions in the stock of the East India Company. 
 
 A Bull is one who speculates for a rise ; whereas a Sear is he who speculates for a fall. The Bull 
 would, for instance, buy 100,0002. consols for the account, with the object of selling them again during 
 the intervening time at a higher price. The Bear, on the contrary, would sell the 100,000?. stoi-k (which, 
 however, he docs not possess) for the same time, with the view of buying in and balancing the trans- 
 action at a lower price than that at which he originally sold them. If consols fall, the Bull finds him- 
 self on the wrong side of the hedge ; and if they rise, the poor Bear is compelled to buy in his stock at 
 a sacrifice. The City, 2nd edit. 
 
 Certain of the legitimate dealers and brokers, originally formed themselves into a Stock 
 Exchange, on the principle of admitting only those who could give assurance of their respecta ility, 
 and of dismissing summarily any of their own body who should be guilty of irregularity. On the whole, 
 the scheme has worked greatly to the public advantage, and has rendered the London Money-market 
 the resort of all the world. Notwithstanding the transactions are so enormous, the amounts so 
 large, and the confidence reposed so unlimited, the instances of delinquency in the members are sur- 
 prisingly few. Nevertheless, the reminiscences of the "Alley," together with the equivocal conduct of 
 the " stags " who haunt its purlieus, still attach, though unjustly, to the Stock Exchange itself. The 
 benevolence and charity of the members are well known: in any sudden calamity, the Stock Exchange 
 men are always amongst the first to succour the afflicted. There is, moreover, a fund subscribed by 
 the members for their decayed associates, the invested capital of which, exclusive of annual contribu- 
 tions, amounts to upwards of 50.0CKM. The Builder. 
 
 The Stock Exchange has many startling episodes of fraud and panic, rise and ruin- 
 Speculation often produces permanent benefit to the public : to the fever of 1807 and 
 1808, London owes Vauxhall and Waterloo Bridges. Late in Napoleon's career the 
 funds varied 8 and 10 per cent, within an hour ; but the immediate effect of the battle 
 of Waterloo news on the funds was only 3 per cent. : the decrease of the public expen- 
 diture was two millions per month. At the panic of 1825, which more affected the 
 public funds than did the news of Napoleon's escape from Elba, the extrance to the 
 Stock Exchange became so choked up, that a fine of 5Z. was imposed upon each person 
 who stopped the way. Pigeon-expresses for the earliest intelligence were chiefly worked 
 from May to September ; the birds generally used were the Antwerp breed, strong on 
 the wing, and fully feathered : they are, however, superseded by the electric telegraph 
 and the cable. Exchequer-bills let in fraud the year after their creation. The last fraud 
 in Exchequer-bills was that committed by Beaumont Smith, chief clerk in the Audit 
 Office, and the victim of Rapallo, an Italian jobber. 
 
 Political hoaxes, from the reported death of Queen Anne to the fraud of 1814, in 
 which Lord Cochrane was implicated, chequer the Stock-Exchange chronicles ; and 
 victims flit about its gates from the Goldsmids, whose credit was whispered away by 
 envy, to the poor Miss Whitchead, whose wits were turned to melancholy by the 
 forgeries of her brother. The recollection of large loans raised here reminds one of
 
 EXCHANGE-ALLEY EXCISE OFFICE (THE) 333 
 
 the mighty power which reigns supreme on this very spot, once the most opulent part 
 of Roman London. 
 
 " The warlike power of every country depends on their Three-per-Cents. If Csesar were to re-appear 
 on earth, Wettenhall's List would be more important than his Commentaries ; Rothschild would open, 
 and shut the Temple of Janus ; Thomas Baring, or Bates, would probably command the Tenth Legion ; 
 and the soldiers would march to battle with loud cries of ' Scrip and Omnium reduced !' ' Consols and 
 Caesar !' " Rev. Sydney Smith. 
 
 The most remarkable man among the stockbrokers of our time was the late Mr. Francis Baily, F.K.S., 
 the astronomer, who retired from the Stock Exchange, in 1825. In 1839, in the garden of his house, 
 Tavistoek-place, Russell-square, was constructed a small observatory, wherein Mr. Baily repeated the 
 " Cavendish experiment," the Government having granted 5001. towards the expense of the apparatus, 
 &o. This is the building in which the earth was weighed, and its bulk and figure calculated ; the standard 
 ineasureof the British nation perpetuated, and the pendulum experiments rescued from their chief source 
 of inaccuracy. Mr. Baily died President of the Astronomical Society, in 1841. 
 
 The Stock Exchange, as rebuilt by Allason, architect, 1853, stands in the centre of 
 the block of buildings fronting Bartholomew-lane, Threadneedle-street, Old Broad- 
 street, and Throgmorton -street. The principal entrance is from Bartholomew-lane, 
 through Capel-court : there are also three entrances from Throgmorton-street and 
 one from Threadneedle-street. The area of the new house is about 75 squares, and it 
 would contain 1100 or 1200 members : there are, however, seldom more than half that 
 number present. The site is very irregular, and has enforced some peculiar construc- 
 tion in covering it, into which iron enters largely. For the cupola, laminated ribs are 
 used. The vault which covers the centre of the building, 39 feet in span, is of timber 
 and iron. The whole of this, together with the dome, &c., is covered with lead to the 
 extent of about 80 tons. The vitiated air is got rid of by an extracting- chamber on 
 the apex of the dome, heated by a sunburner with 500 jets : during the day the sun- 
 burner is concealed from view by a perforated sliding metal screen j but, when required, 
 sufficient illuminating power is to be obtained by withdrawing the screen, to light up 
 the house without further burners. The Builder. 
 
 EXCHANGE-ALLEY. 
 
 "pXCHANGE-ALLEY now 'Change-alley, between No. 24, Cornhill, and No. 70, 
 -*-^ Lombard-street, is described by Strype as " a place of a very considerable concourse 
 of merchants, seafaring men, and other traders, occasioned by the great coffee-houses that 
 stand there. Chiefly now brokers, and such as deal in the buying and selling of stocks, 
 frequent it." Thither Jews and Gentiles migrated in 1700 : for a century it was the 
 focus of all the monetary operations of England, and in great part of Europe ; and 
 even to this hour, the Stock Exchange bears the generic designation of " the Alley." 
 It was the great arena of the South-Sea Bubble of 1720. In a print called the 
 " Bubblers' Melody " are " stock -jobbing cards, or the humours of 'Change-alley." 
 
 " The headlong fool that wants to be a swopper 
 Of gold and silver coin for English copper, 
 May in 'Change-alley prove himself an ass, 
 And give rich metal for adulterate brass." 
 
 Nine of Hearts, in a Pack of Bubble Cards. 
 
 1706 was a South-Sea year in East India stock, when patriots were made or marred 
 by jobbing : " from the Alley to the House," said Walpole, " is like a path of ants." 
 
 " The centre of the jobbing is in the kingdom of Exchange-alley and its adjacencies. The limits are 
 easily surrounded in about a minute and a half, viz., stepping out of Jonathan's into the Alley, you turn 
 your face full south ; moving on a few paces, and then turning due east, you advance to Garraway's ; 
 from thence, going out at the other door, you go on still east into Birchin-lane ; and then halting a little 
 at the Sword-blade Bank, to do much mischief in fewest words, you immediately face to the north, 
 enter Cornhill, visit two or three petty provinces there in your way west ; and thus having boxed your 
 compass, and sailed round the whole stock-jobbing globe, you turn into Jonathan's again ; and so, as 
 most of the great follies of life oblige us to do, you end just where you began." The Anatomy of 
 Exchange-alley, 1719. 
 
 EXCISE OFFICE (THE), 
 
 OLD Broad-street (Dance, sen., architect), occupies the site of Gresham College, 
 which the Gresham trustees sold, in 1768, to the Crown for a perpetual rent of 
 5001. per annum ; when 18,000. was also paid out of the Gresham fund to the Com- 
 missioners towards pulling down the College, and building an Excise Office ! (Burgon.) 
 The business was removed in 1848 to the Inland Revenue Office, Somerset House. In
 
 334 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the court-yard of the Broad-street Excise Office a temporary Exchange was put up for 
 the merchants in 1838 ; and was used during the rebuilding of the Royal Exchange. 
 (See GBESHAM COLLEGE, p. 274.) 
 
 The Excise system was established by the Long Parliament, in 1643, to raise funds 
 for the war against the King ! The Commissioners first sat in Haberdashers' Hall, and 
 then at their office in Smithfield, which was taken down in 1647, the mob carrying off 
 the materials in triumph. In J 680, the office was at Cockaigne House, formerly the 
 mansion of Eliah, the brother of Dr. William Harvey, the illustrator of the Circulation 
 of the Blood. Thence the Excise Office was removed to Sir John Frederick's mansion, 
 Old Jewry ; and then to Old Broad-street. 
 
 EXETER HALL, 
 
 NO. 372, on the north side of the Strand, a large proprietary establishment, was 
 commenced in 1829 (Gandy Deering, architect), and was originally intended for 
 religious and charitable Societies, and their meetings. It has a narrow frontage in 
 the Strand, but the premises extend in the rear nearly from Burleigh-street to Exeter- 
 street. The Strand entrance is Grseco-Corinthian, and has two columns and pilasters, 
 and the word <t>IAAAE AEION (Loving Brothers) sculptured in the attic. A double 
 staircase leads to the Great Hall, beneath which are a smaller one, and passages leading 
 to the offices of several Societies. 
 
 The Great Hall, opened in 1831, is now used for the " May Meetings" of religious 
 societies, and for the Sacred Harmonic Society's and other concerts. This Hall has 
 been twice enlarged, is now 131 ft. 6 in. long, 76 ft. 9 in. wide, and 45 ft. high, and will 
 accommodate upwards of 3000 persons. At the east end is an organ and orchestra, the 
 property of the Sacred Harmonic Society ; at the west end is a large gallery, extending 
 partly along the sides ; and on the floor are seats rising in part amphitheatrically ; also 
 a platform for the speakers, and a large carved chair. In 1850, the area of the hall 
 was lengthened nearly forty feet ; the flat-panelled ceiling was also removed, and a 
 coved one inserted, without disturbing the slating in the roof; S. W. Daukes, archi- 
 tect. Nearly eighty tons of iron were introduced into the roof, which, with the new 
 ceiling, is one-third less weight than the original roof. 
 
 Thus the ceiling gained 15 feet in height at the ends, and 12 feet in the centre; and 
 the sound and ventilation are much improved. The Orchestra is on the acoustic prin- 
 ciple successfully adopted by Mr. Costa at the Philharmonic Society ; it is 76 feet wide, 
 11 feet more than the Birmingham Town- Hall orchestra. Every member can see the 
 conductor ; the organ-player sees his baton in a glass, among the phalanx of instrumental- 
 ists. The works of Handel, Haydn, and Mozart are here given with mighty effect ; and 
 Spohr and Mendelssohn have here conducted then? own productions. The Organ, 
 built by Walker in 1840, is 30 feet wide and 40 feet high : it has 2187 pipes ; the 
 longest are 20 feet from the base, diameter 15 inches, weight of each 4 cwt. j in gilding 
 one-half of each pipe 750 leaves of gold were used : there are three rows of keys and 
 two octaves of pedals. 
 
 From April to the end of May, various Societies hold their anniversary meetings at 
 Exeter Hall. The smaller hall holds about 1000 persons, and a third hall 250, Haydon 
 has painted the Meeting of Anti-Slavery Delegates in the Great Hall, June 12, 1840, 
 tinder the presidency of the venerable Thomas Clarkson, then in his 81st year. On 
 June 1, 1840, Prince Albert presided in the Great Hall at the first public meeting of 
 the Society for the Extinction of the Slave Trade, this being the Prince's first ap- 
 pearance at any public meeting in England. 
 
 Exeter Hall, with its various religious and benevolent aggregations, is one field with 
 many encampments of distinct tribes. " Wesleyan, Church, Baptist missionary socie- 
 ties, all maintain a certain degree of reserve towards each other, all are jealous of the 
 claims of rival sects, and yet all are attracted by a common sense of religious earnest- 
 ness. The independent and often mutually repelling bodies who congregate in Exeter 
 Hall are ne in spirit, with all their differences. Without a pervading organization, 
 they are a church." Spectator newspaper. 
 
 Mr. H ullah's system of popular Singing was formerly illustrated here, when 2000 
 pupils combined their voices in the performances.
 
 EXETER HOUSE AND 'CHANGE FETTER-LANE. 335 
 
 EXETER SOUSE AND EXETER 'CHANGE. 
 
 T7XETER 'CHANGE is now only kept in remembrance by a clock-dial, inscribed 
 -*-^ with its name in place of figures, upon the attic-front of the house No. 353, east- 
 ward of the 'Change site, on the north side of the Strand. Here was formerly the 
 parsonage-house of the parish of St. Martin, with a garden, and a close for the parson's 
 horse; till Sir Thomas Palmer (temp. Edward VI.) obtained it by composition, and 
 tegan to build here " a magnificent house of brick and timber" (Stow). But upon his 
 attainder for high treason (1 Queen Mary), the property reverted to the Crown, and so 
 remained until Queen Elizabeth presented it to Sir William Cecil, lord treasurer, and 
 the great Lord Burleigh (properly Burghley), who completed the mansion, with four 
 square turrets ; whence it was called Cecil House and Burleigh House, and afterwards 
 Exeter House, from the son of the great statesman Thomas Cecil, Earl of Exeter. The 
 mansion fronted the Strand, and extended from the garden-wall of Wimbledon House 
 (on the site of D'Oyley's warehouse) to a green lane, the site of the present Southamp- 
 ton-street, westward. Queen Elizabeth visited Lord Burleigh at Exeter House j and 
 here his obsequies were celebrated by a lying-in-state.* In the chapel attached, the 
 pious John Evelyn, on Christmas-day, 1657, was seized by the soldiers of the Common- 
 wealth for having observed " the superstitious time of the Nativity," and was tem- 
 porarily shut up in Exeter House. Here lived the first Earl of Shaftesbury, and here 
 was born his grandson, who wrote the Characteristics. After the Great Fire, the courts 
 of Doctors' Commons were held in Exeter House until 1672. 
 
 Exeter 'Change was built, as a sort of bazaar, by Dr. Barbon, the speculator in 
 houses, temp. William and Mary, when Exeter House was taken down j and probably 
 some of the old materials were used for the 'Change, including a pair of large Corinthian 
 columns at the eastern end. (See a View, by G. Cooke.) About the same time, Exeter- 
 street was erected. The 'Change extended from the house No. 352 to the site of the 
 present Burleigh-street : it projected into the Strand, the northern foot-thoroughfare of 
 which lay through the shops or stands of the lower floor, first occupied by sernpsters, 
 milliners, hosiers, &c. 
 
 The body of the poet Gay lay in state in an upper room of the 'Change ; here, too, 
 were upholsterers' shops, the offices of Law's Land Bank, auction-rooms, &c. Cutlery 
 then became the merchandise of the lower floor. 
 
 Thomas Clark, "the King of Exeter 'Change," took a stall here in 1765 with 1CKM. lent him by a 
 stranger. By parsimony and trade, he grew so rich that he once returned his income at 60001. a year; 
 and long before his death, in 1816, he had rented the whole ground-floor of the 'Change. He left 
 nearly half a million of money, and one of his daughters married Mr. Hamlet, the celebrated jeweller. 
 
 The upper rooms of Exeter 'Change were occupied as a menagerie successively by 
 Pidcock, Polito, and Cross ; admission to Pidcock's, in 1810, 2s. 6d. The roar of the 
 lions and tigers could be distinctly heard in the street, and often frightened horses in 
 the roadway. During Cross' tenancy, in 1826, Chunee, the stupendous elephant 
 shown here since 1809, in an oak den which cost 350Z., was shot, and his skin sold for 
 501. ; his skeleton, sold for 100Z., is now at the College of Surgeons. (See MUSEUMS.) 
 Cross' Menagerie was removed in 1828 to the Kings' Mews, Charing-cross j and Exeter 
 'Change was entirely taken down in 1829. 
 
 NEW EXETER CHANGE, an Arcade which led from Catherine-street to Wellington- 
 street, Strand, is described at page 20. 
 
 FETTER-LANE, 
 
 FLEET-STREET, eastward of St. Dunstan's Church, extending to Holborn-hill, "is 
 so called of fewters (or idle people) lying there, as in a way leading to gardens" 
 {Stow) before the street was built ; but when he wrote "it was built through on both 
 sides with many fair bouses." Here lived the leatherseller of the Revolution, " Praise 
 God Barebones," and his brother, " Damned Barebones," both in the same house. 
 
 * Burghley died at Theobalds, Aug. 4, 1598, where the body lay. Hentzer, however, states that when 
 he called to see Theobalds at Cheshunt, there was " nobody to shew the palace, as the family was hi town 
 attending the funeral of their lord."
 
 336 CUEIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Hobbes of Malmesbury liad a house in this street. In No. 16, over Fleur-de-lis-court, 
 Dryden is said to have lived ; but not by his biographers. His name does not appear 
 in the parish books ; but he may have been a lodger. " This period in Dryden's life 
 may have been about the time when he wrote prefaces and other pieces for Hering- 
 ham, the bookseller in the New Exchange, or soon after." J. W. Archer, whose im- 
 pression was that the authority consisted in a letter of Dryden's, dated from Fetter- 
 lane, and in Mr. Upcott's collection of autographs. At the right-hand corner of 
 Fleur-de-lis-court, the infamous Mrs. Brownrigg murdered her apprentices in 1767 ; 
 the cellar-grating, whence the poor child's cries issued, is on the side of the court : 
 
 " She whipped two female 'prentices to death, 
 
 And hid them in the coal-hole 
 
 For this act, 
 Did Brownrigg swing." Canning, Antijacolin. 
 
 On the Rolls estate, nearly opposite, was commenced a new Record Office, by Penne- 
 thorne, in 1851. No. 32, Fetter-lane is the entrance to the Moravian Chapel, which 
 was attacked and dismantled in the Sacheverel riots. (See DISSENTERS' CUAPELS, 
 p. 220.) The Fleet-street and Holborn ends of Fetter-lane were, for more than two 
 centuries, places of public execution. At the Holborn end, Nathaniel Tomkins was 
 executed, July 5, 1643, for his share in Waller's plot to surprise the City. At the 
 Fleet-street end Sarah Malcolm was executed, March 1733, for the murder of three 
 women. (See Mr. Serjeant Burke's Romance of the Forum, vol. i. pp. 224-38.) 
 Hogarth painted and engraved Sarah Malcolm : the print, for which the Duke of 
 Roxburghe gave 81. 5s., is the rarest of Hogarth's portraits : this impression is now 
 in Mr. Holbert Wilson's collection. 
 
 " Immediately after Sarah Malcolm underwent the extreme penalty of the law, a confession made by 
 her was published in a pamphlet form; the edition was exhausted at once, and as much as twenty 
 guineas is said to have been offered for an impression." Romance of the Forum, 2nd series, vol. i. p. 237. 
 
 " After her execution her corpse was carried to an undertaker's on Snow-hill, where multitudes of 
 people resorted, and gave money to see it ; among the rest, a gentleman in deep mourning kissed her, 
 and gave the attendants half-a-crown." Ireland, vol. ii. p. 320. Quoted in Mr. Holbert Wilson's Cata- 
 logue, privately printed. 
 
 Fetter-lane has still a few old houses : towards the Holborn end are some of the 
 oldest chambers of Barnard's Inn. Strange labyrinths of courts and alleys lie between 
 Chancery, Fetter, and Shoe lanes, which, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, intersected 
 gardens and straggling cottages. This district was the principal part of Saxon London, 
 and was nearly all burnt A.D. 982, when the City had " most buildings from Ludgate 
 towards Westminster, and little or none where the heart of the City now is ; except in 
 divers places was housing that stood without order." (Stow.) 
 
 The White Horse Inn, Fetter-lane (now a cheap lodging-house), was formerly the great Oxford 
 house : here Lord Eldon, when he left school and came to London, in 1776, met his brother, Lord 
 Stowell. " He took me," says Lord Eldon, " to see the play at Drury-lane. Love played Jobson in the 
 farce ; and Miss Pope played Nell. When we came out of the house it rained hard. There were then 
 few hackney-coaches, and we both got into one sedan-chair. Turning out of Fleet-street into Fetter- 
 lane, there was a sort of contest between our chairman and some persons who were coming up Fleet- 
 street, whether they should first pass Fleet-street, or we in our chair first get out of Fleet-street into 
 Fetter-lane. In the struggle, the sedan-chair was overset, with us in it." Lord Eldon's Anecdote-Book. 
 
 FIELD-LANE, 
 
 AN infamous rookery of " the dangerous classes," extended from the foot of Holborn- 
 hill, northward, parallel with the Fleet Ditch, but has been mostly taken down 
 since it was thus vividly painted in 1837 : 
 
 "Near to the spot on which Snow-hill and Holborn meet, there opens, upon the right hand as you 
 come out of the City, a narrow and dismal alley leading to Saffron-hill. In its filthy shops are exposed 
 for sale huge bunches of pocket-handkerchiefs of all sizes and patterns for here reside the traders who 
 purchase them from pickpockets. Hundreds of these handkerchiefs hang dangling from pegs outside 
 the windows, or flaunting from the door-posts ; and the shelves within are piled with them. Confined 
 as the limits of Field-lane are, it has its barber, its coffee-shop, its beer-shop, and its fried-fish ware- 
 house. It is a commercial colony of itself the emporium of petty larceny, visited, at early morning 
 and setting-in of dusk, by silent merchants, who traffic in dark back-parlours, and go as strangely as 
 they come. Here the clothesman, the shoe-vamper, and the rag-merchant, display their goods as sign- 
 boards to the petty thief; and stores of old iron and bones, and heaps of mildewy fragments ofwoollen- 
 stufl' and linen, rust and rot in the grimy cellars." Charles Diekens's Oliver Twwt, 1837. 
 
 From Field-lane, northward, runs Saffron-hill, named from the saffron which it once
 
 FIELD OF FORTY FOOTSTEPS FINSBURY. 337 
 
 bore ; next is Vine-street, the site of Ely-house vineyard. Strype (1720) describes this 
 locality as "of small account both as to buildings and inhabitants, and pestered with 
 small and ordinary alleys and courts, taken up by the meaner sort of people;" others 
 are " nasty and inconsiderable." 
 
 In 1844 was taken down part of Old Chick-lane, which debouched into Field-lane. 
 Here was a notorious thieves' lodging-house, formerly the Red-Lion Tavern : it had 
 various contrivances for concealment ; and the Fleet Ditch in the rear, across which the 
 pursued often escaped by a plank into the opposite knot of courts and alleys. 
 
 FIELD OF FORTY FOOTSTEPS. 
 
 THE fields behind Montague House, Bloomsbury, appear to have been originally 
 called Long Fields ; and afterwards (about Strype's time) Southampton Fields. On 
 St. John Baptist's Day, 1694, Aubrey saw at midnight twenty-three young women in 
 the pasture behind Montague House, looking for a coal, beneath the root of a plantain, 
 to put under their heads that night, and they should dream who would be their 
 husbands. The fields were the resort of depraved wretches, chiefly for fighting 
 pitched battles, especially on the Sabbath-day : such was the turbulent state of the 
 place up to 1800. 
 
 A legendary story of the period of the Duke of Monmouth's Rebellion relates a 
 mortal conflict here between two brothers, on account of a lady, who sat by : the 
 combatants fought so ferociously as to destroy each other ; after which their footsteps, 
 imprinted on the ground in the vengeful struggle, were said to remain, with the in- 
 dentations produced by their advancing and receding ; nor would any grass or vege- 
 tation ever grow over these forty footsteps. Miss Porter and her sister, upon this 
 fiction, founded their ingenious romance, Coming Out, or the Field of Forty Footsteps ; 
 but they entirely depart from the local tradition. At the Tottenham-street Theatre 
 was produced, many years since, an effective melodrama, by Messrs. Mayhew, 
 founded upon the same incident, entitled the Field of Forty Footsteps. 
 
 Southey records this strange story in his Commonplace Book (second series, p. 21). 
 After quoting a letter from a friend, recommending him to " take a view of those 
 wonderful marks of the Lord's hatred to duelling, called The Brothers' Steps," and 
 describing the locality, Southey thus narrates his own visit to the spot : " We sought 
 for near half an hour in vain. We could find no steps at all within a quarter of a 
 mile, no, nor half a mile, of Montague House. We were almost out of hope, when an 
 honest man, who was at work, directed us to the next ground, adjoining to a pond. 
 There we found what we sought, about three- quarters of a mile north of Montague 
 House, and 500 yards east of Tottenham-court-road. The steps are of the size of a 
 large human foot, about three inches deep, and lie nearly from north-east to south-west. 
 We counted only seventy-six ; but we were not exact in counting. The place where 
 one or both the brothers are supposed to have fallen is still bare of grass. The 
 labourer also showed us where (the tradition is) the wretched woman sat to see the 
 combat." Southey adds his full confidence in the tradition of the indestructibility of 
 the steps, even after ploughing up, and of the conclusions to be drawn from the 
 circumstance. Notes and Queries, No. 12. 
 
 Joseph Moser, in one of his Commonplace Books, gives this account of the foot- 
 steps, just previous to their being built over : " June 16, 1800. Went into the fields 
 at the back of Montague House, and there saw, for the last time, the forty footsteps ; 
 the building materials are there, ready to cover them from the sight of man. I counted 
 more than forty, but they might be the footprints of the workmen." Dobie's St. 
 Giles-in-the-Fields and St. George, Bloomsbury; and Dr. Rimbault, in Notes and 
 Queries, No. 14. 
 
 FINS BUST, 
 
 OR Fensbury, named from its fenny ground, is a manor of high antiquity, which 
 abuts in part upon the City, Cripplegate, and Moorgate boundaries, and was 
 anciently named Vynesbury. A great part of the manor is held by the Corporation 
 of London, by virtue of a lease dated 22nd May, 1315, from Robert de Baildok, pre- 
 
 z
 
 338 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 bendary of Haliwell and Finsbury, in St. Paul's Cathedral, at an annual rent of 20*. 
 The lease, which has been renewed from time to time, will expire in the year 1867. 
 The Corporation appoints the steward and other officers of the manorial courts ; but 
 the manor is not within the jurisdiction of the City. The Finsbury court leet and 
 baron are holden in October every year, before the senior Common Pleader, to whose 
 office the stewardship of the manor of Finsbury is incident. (Municipal Corporation 
 Report, pp. 3, 136 ; and Maitland's London, vol. ii. 1369.) Finsbury has been drained 
 and built over, and is now a populous parliamentary borough, including the ancient 
 district of Moorfields, to be described hereafter. 
 
 In early times, the chief magistrate of London was no more than a provost. Afterwards, the title of 
 Mayor that is, Major Chief was given to him ; but in all the olden chronicles and documents he is 
 simply called by that name, without the prefix of Lord. When the manor of Finsbury was annexed to 
 the City property, and the mere marsh was turned into a place of general recreation, he was, in virtue 
 of his office, Lord of the Manor of Finsbury. Hence, in process of time, the compound title of Lord 
 Mayor : Mayor, that is, of London, and Lord of the Manor of Finsbury. 
 
 Aggas's Plan, 1560, shows Finsbury as a rural suburb ; with " Finsburie Fyeld," with its four wind- 
 mills; its archers; drying-grounds, with women spreading clothes on the grass; the " dogge-house," &c. 
 "Moor-gate opens to the moor, or fen hence the district name Fin, or Fensbury, and that of the near- 
 to-hand Moor-lane. Fore-street appears before the City wall. The City-road is a footpath, near the 
 junction of which with Old-street, another footpath, stands Finsbury-court. Tenter-street still attests 
 the presence of the ' tenters,' whose frames in Aggas's Plan are sketched on the site which is now so styled ; 
 thus also do Ropemaker and Skinner-streets indicate old trades of suburban custom. Cherry-terrace, 
 Crabtree-row, Willow-walk and Wilderness, Windmill, Lamb, Pear, Rose, Primrose, Acorn, Ivy, Elder, 
 Blossom, Orchard, and Beech-streets, all in the neighbourhood, suggest odours and sights that have long 
 left the spot. Tabernacle, Chapel, Worship, Mark, Luke, John, Paul, Paradise, Quaker, Providence, and 
 Great PearJ-streets hint at later occupants." Athenceum, 1866. 
 
 In the reigns of Queen Elizabeth and James I. (says Cunningham), Finsbury was a 
 favourite walk with the citizens of London on a Sunday ; hence Hotspur's allusion to 
 Lady Percy : 
 
 " And giv'st such sarcenet security for thy oaths, 
 As if you never walk'st further than Finsbury." 
 
 Shakspeare, Pint Part of Henry IV. 
 
 The Prebend of Finsbury now (1866) has revenues of 7000Z. per annum ; they will 
 shortly be eight or nine times that amount. (See BUNHILL FIELDS, p. 76.) The 
 City's proportion of the net proceeds of the Finsbury Estate is, annually, 42,977. 
 
 FIRE OF LONDON (THE), 
 
 OR the GREAT FIEE of 1666, broke out about one o'clock on Sunday morning, Sep- 
 tember 2, and raged nearly four days and nights. It commenced at the house of 
 one Farryner, the " King's Baker," in Pudding-lane, near New Fish-street-hill, and 
 within ten houses of Lower Thames-street, into which it spread within a short time ; 
 nearly all the contiguous buildings being of lath and plaster, and the whole neigh- 
 bourhood mostly close passages and narrow lanes and alleys, of wooden pitched houses. 
 Driven by a strong east-north-east wind, the flames spread with great rapidity : how- 
 ever, it was proposed to the Lord Mayor (Sir Thomas Bludworth), who came before 
 three o'clock, to pull down some houses, to prevent their extending ; but he neglected 
 this advice, and before eight o'clock the fire had reached London Bridge. 
 
 The tremendous event is finely described by Evelyn in his Diary, wherein he tells us 
 that it made the atmosphere as light as day " for ten miles round about ; . . all the skie 
 was of a fiery aspect, like the top of a burning oven, the light seen above forty miles 
 round about. Above 10,000 houses all in one flame ; the noise and cracking and thunder 
 of the impetuous flames, y e shrieking of women and children, the hurry of people, the 
 fall of towers, houses, and churches, was like an hideous storme, and the air all about 
 so hot and inflam'd, that at last one was not able to approach it, so that they were forc'd 
 to stand still and let y e flames burn on, w ch they did for neere two miles in length, and 
 one; in bredth. The clouds of smoke were disinall, and reached upon computation neer 
 50 miles in length." 
 
 On the 5th, Evelyn writes : " In this calamitous condition, I return'd with a sad 
 heart to my house, blessing and adoring the mercy of God to me and mine, who, in the 
 midst of all this mine, was like Lot, in my little Zoar, safe and sound." 
 
 Pepys's account, in his Diary, is fully as minute as that of Evelyn, but is mingled 
 with various personal and official circumstances. Pepys was then clerk of the Acts
 
 FIRE OF LONDON (THE). 339 
 
 of the Navy : his house and office were in Seething-lane, Crutched Friars ; he was 
 called up at three in the morning, Sept. 2, by his maid Jane, and so rose and slipped 
 on his nightgown, and went to her window ; but thought the fire far enough off, and 
 so went to bed again, and to sleep. Next morning, Jane told him that she heard above 
 300 houses had been burnt down by the fire they saw, and that it was then burning 
 down all Fish-street, by London Bridge. " So," he writes, " I made myself ready 
 presently, and walked to the Tower, and there got up upon one of the high places, and 
 saw the houses at that end of the bridge all on fire, and an infinite great fire on this 
 and the other side of the bridge," &c. On Sept. 5, he notes : " about two in the morn- 
 ing my wife calls me up, and tells me of new cries of fire, it being come to Barking 
 Church, which is at the bottom of our Lane." The fire was, however, stopped, " as 
 well at Mark-lane end as ours ; it having only burnt the dyall of Barking Church, and 
 part of the porch, and there was quenched." 
 
 The limits of the Great Fire, according 1 to the London Gazette, Sept. 8, 1666, were : "at the Temple 
 Church, near Holborn Bridge, Pye Corner, Aldersgate, Cripplegate, near the lower end of Coleman- 
 street, at the end of Basinghall-street, by the Postern ; at the upper end of Bishopsgate-street and 
 Leadenhall-street, at the Standard in Cornhill, at the Church in Fenchurch-street, near Clothworkers* 
 Hall, in Minoing-lane, at the middle of Mark-lane, and at the Tower Dock." 
 
 " It is observed and is true, in the late Fire of London, that the Fire burned just as many parish 
 churches as there were hours from the beginning to the end of the Fire; and next, that there were just 
 as many churches left standing in the rest of the City that was not burned, being, I think, thirteen in 
 all of each; which is pretty to observe." Pcpys' Diary, Jan. 7, 1667-8. 
 
 The Fire consumed almost five- sixths of the whole City; and without the walls, it 
 cleared a space nearly as extensive as the one-sixth part left unburnt within. Public 
 edifices, churches, and dwelling-houses were alike consumed ; and it may be stated that 
 the flames extended their ravages over a space of ground equal to an oblong square of a 
 mile and a half in length, and half a mile in breadth. In one of the inscriptions on the 
 Monument, which was drawn up from the reports of the surveyors appointed after the 
 Fire, it is stated that " the ruins of the City were 436 acres (viz. 373 acres within 
 the walls, and 63 without them, but within the liberties) ; that of the six-and-twenty 
 wards, it utterly destroyed fifteen, and left eight others shattered and half burnt; 
 and that it consumed eighty-nine churches, four of the City gates, Guildhall, many 
 public structures, hospitals, schools, libraries, a great number of stately edifices, 13,200 
 dwelling-houses, and 460 streets. 
 
 Lord Clarendon says, that " the value or estimate of what that devouring Fire 
 consumed could never be computed in any degree." A curious pamphlet upon the 
 Burning of London, first published in 1667, however, estimates the loss at 7,335,0002. j 
 but it is believed to have been nearer ten millions sterling. 
 
 Whether the Great Fire were the effect of design or of accident, has been much 
 controverted. Lord Clarendon admits the public impression to have been, " that the 
 Fire was occasioned by conspiracy and combination;" and although he himself main- 
 tains the negative, his own account furnishes opposite testimony. " It could not be 
 conceived," he says, " how a house that was distant a mile from any part of the Fire 
 could suddenly be in a flame, without some particular malice ; and this case fell out 
 every night." One Robert Hubert, a French Papist, seized in Essex, confessed to have 
 begun the Fire ; and was hanged accordingly : he stated that he had been, " suborned 
 at Paris to this action ;" that there " were three more combined with him to do the 
 same thing," and that " he had set the first house on fire." Yet Lord Clarendon 
 strangely remarks, that " neither the judges, nor any present at the trial, did believe 
 him guilty, but that he was a poor distracted wretch weary of his life, and chose to 
 part with it in this way." This was not credited by Howell, then recorder of London. 
 " Tillotson believed the City was burnt on design." (Burnet.) 
 
 On the 26th of April, 1666, a plot was discovered for taking the Tower and firing the City, which 
 was to have been put in execution on the 3rd of September, a day regarded as peculiarly lucky to the 
 anti-royalist faction. It is worthy of remark that the "Great Fire of London" broke out on the 2nd 
 of September in that year, the very day before that appointed by the conspirators. 
 
 An extremely impressive narrative of the progress of the conflagration, and of the distress and con- 
 fusion it occasioned, has been given by the Rev. T . Vincent, a nonconformist divine, in his tract, God'* 
 Terrible Advice to the City by Plague and Fire, of which thirteen editions were published within 
 five years. 
 
 The stationers and booksellers lost their stocks, which they had deposited in St. 
 Paul's crypt : too eager to ascertain its condition, as the fire subsided, they caused an 
 
 z 2
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 aperture to be made in the smouldering pile, when a stream of wind rushed in and con- 
 sumed the whole : 
 
 "Heavens, what a pile ! whole ages perish'd there; 
 And one bright blaze turn'd learning into air." 
 
 Aubrey relates that on St. Andrew's Day (Nov. 30), 1666, as he was riding in a coach towards Gres- 
 ham College, at the corner of Holborn Bridge, a cellar of coals was opened by the labourers, and " there 
 were burning coals which burnt ever since the Great Fire ; but being pent so close from air, there was 
 very little waste." Nat. Hist. Witt*. 
 
 Westminster Hall was filled with the citizens' goods and merchandize ; and Pepys 
 oddly complains that he could not " find any place in Westminster to buy a shirt or 
 pair of gloves j Westminster Hall being full of people's goods." 
 
 A Court of Judicature was appointed by Parliament, to settle all differences arising 
 in respect to the destroyed premises : and the judges of this Court gave such satisfac- 
 tion, that their portraits were painted, at the expense of the citizens, for 601. a piece, 
 and are now in the Courts of Common Pleas and Queen's Bench, Guildhall. 
 
 Not more than six persons lost their lives in the Fire ; one of whom was a watch- 
 maker, living in Shoe- lane, behind the Globe Tavern, and who would not leave his 
 house, which sunk him with the ruins into the cellar, where his bones, with his keys, 
 were found. 
 
 (See Hollar's small view of London before and after the Fire j and an ingenious 
 picture-plan by F. Whishaw, C.E., showing the part of the City destroyed, and its 
 altered condition in 1839.) 
 
 Whilst the City was rebuilding, temporary edifices were raised, both for divine 
 worship and the general business. Gresham College, which had escaped the flames, 
 was converted into an Exchange and Guildhall ; and the Royal Society removed its 
 sittings to Arundel House. The affairs of the Custom-house were transacted in Mark- 
 lane ; of the Excise Office in Southampton-fields, near Bedford House j the General 
 Post-Office was removed to Brydges-street, Covent-garden ; Doctors' Commons to 
 Exeter House, Strand; and the King's Wardrobe was consigned from Puddle Wharf to 
 York-buildings. The inhabitants, for a time, were mostly lodged in small huts, built 
 in Finsbury and Moorfields, in- Smithfield, and on all the open spaces in the neigh- 
 bourhood of the metropolis. The whole calamity was bravely borne : Evelyn mentions 
 that the merchants complied with their foreign correspondence as if no disaster had 
 happened, and not one failure was heard of. Within two days after the conflagration, 
 both Wren and Evelyn had presented to the King plans for a new City : neither of 
 these was accepted ; but London was principally rebuilt within little more than four 
 years after its destruction. (See MONUMENT, the.) 
 
 MEMOEAELE FIRES. 
 
 Southwark burnt by William the Conqueror, 
 about twenty years before the Domesday Survey. 
 
 962. St. Paul's Minster burnt. 
 
 1036. All the houses and churches from the 
 west to the east gate burnt. (Baker's Chronicle.) 
 
 1087. The Winchester Chronicle makes entry of 
 the burning of the Church of St. Paul's and of 
 London. The Waverley Chronicle says that St. 
 Paul's, with many other churches, and the greater 
 and better part of the whole City, were then de- 
 stroyed by fire. 
 
 1093. The wooden houses and straw roofs of 
 the London citizens again in flames, and great 
 part of the City destroyed. 
 
 1102. "London was twice burnt,"aphrasewhich 
 shows how quickly the City could then be rebuilt, 
 and that the houses must have been made of very 
 combustible materials. 
 
 1104. London and Lincoln were burnt. 
 
 1113. The Tower of London partially destroyed 
 by fire. 
 
 1131. " Londonia tota combusta est " London 
 entirely burnt. 
 
 1135. The first year of Stephen. A great fire 
 broke out at the Bridge, and destroyed not only 
 all the wooden and thatched houses, but every 
 
 edifice, including St. Paul's, between the bridge 
 and St. Clement Danes. 
 
 1136. The houses burnt from near London- 
 stone eastward as far as Aldgate; and to the 
 shrine of St. Erkenwald, in St. Paul's Cathedral, 
 west. 
 
 1161. By the Winchester Chronicle, not only 
 London burnt, but Winchester, Canterbury, and 
 Exeter. 
 
 1212. July 10. Southwark, with the Chapel of 
 St. Thomas (on London Bridge) and the Priory of 
 St. Mary Overie, was consumed. The Wacerley 
 Chronicle says : " A great part of London in the 
 neighbourhood of the Bridge, with the Southwark 
 Priory, was burnt down." Three thousand bodies, 
 some half-burnt, were found in the river Thames : 
 besides those who perished altogether by fire. " It 
 broke out on the south side of the Bridge. Multi- 
 tudes of people rushed to the rescue of the inhabi- 
 tants of houses on the bridge, and while thus en- 
 gaged the fire broke out on the north side also, 
 and hemmed them in, making a holocaust of those 
 who were not killed by leaping into the Thames. 
 The fire spread north and south; from John's 
 reign to that of Charles the Second it was known 
 as the Great Fire, but that name is now only
 
 FIRE BRIGADES. 
 
 341 
 
 applied to the conflagration of 1666, which ex- 
 tended from the north-east gate to Holborn- 
 bridge, and from the Tower to the Temple Church, 
 leaving between four and five hundred acres 
 covered with ruins of many thousands of houses 
 to mark its devastation." Athenaum, 1866. 
 
 1512. Great part of the Palace of Westminster 
 "once again" burnt (4 Hen. VIII.), and not since 
 re-edified; only the Great Hall, with adjoining 
 offices, kept in good repair. 
 
 1531. Aug. 16. The Mews, Charing Cross, 
 burnt. 
 
 1613. June 29. The Globe Theatre, Bankside, 
 burnt. 
 
 1619. Jan. 12. The old Banqneting-house, 
 Whitehall Palace, burnt. 
 
 1621. Dec. 9. The Fortune Theatre burnt. 
 Dec. 20. Six Clerks' Office, Chancery-lane, burnt. 
 
 1691 April 10. At Whitehall Palace all the 
 buildings over the stone gallery to the water-side 
 burnt ; 150 houses, chiefly of the nobility, con- 
 sumed, and 20 blown up. 
 
 1697. Jan. 4. Whitehall Palace, except Inigo 
 Jones's Banqueting-house, burnt; all its pictures 
 destroyed, and 12 persons perished. 
 
 1632-33. Feb. 3. More than one-third of the 
 houses on London Bridge burnt; the Thames 
 almost frozen. 
 
 1666. The GREAT FIBE. (See preceding article.) 
 
 1671-2. The King's Theatre, Drury-lane, burnt. 
 
 1676. May 26. The Town-hall and part of 
 Southwark (600 houses) burnt. 
 
 1718. Custom-house (Wren's) burnt. 
 
 1726. Great fire at the South-end of London 
 Bridge; stopped by the Stone Gate. 
 
 1743. March 25. In Cornhill ward : 200 houses 
 burnt; commenced in 'Change-alley, and was the 
 largest since the Great Fire of 166(5. (See COEN- 
 HILL, p. 235.) 
 
 1758. April 11. The temporary wooden London 
 Bridge destroyed by fire, stopping all commuuica- 
 tion between the City and Southwark. This pro- 
 duced the Act of Parliament making any wilful 
 attempt to destroy the Bridge or its works to be 
 death without benefit o clergy. 
 
 1760. April 18. Fresh Wharf and part of St. 
 Magnus' Church, London Bridge, burnt. 
 
 1765. Nov. 7. The southern half of Bishops- 
 gate-street Within, including St. Martin Outwich 
 Church, destroyed by fire; the four corners of 
 Cornhill, Bishopsgate-street, Leadenhall-street, 
 and Gracechurch-street, were inflames at the same 
 time. 
 
 1789. June 17. Italian Opera-house (Van- 
 brugh's) burnt. 
 
 1794. June 18. At Limehouse Hole, many 
 houses burnt. July 22, 23. At Ratcliffe Cross ; 
 630 houses and an East India warehouse burnt : 
 loss, 1,000,000;. 
 
 1808. Sept. 20. Covent-garden Theatre burnt. 
 
 1809. Feb. 24. Drury-lane Theatre burnt. 
 
 1814. Feb. 12. The Custom-house and adjoin- 
 ing houses destroyed. Aug. 28. Oil and mustard 
 mills, Bankside, burnt; remains of Winchester 
 Palace discovered in the ruins. 
 
 1834. Oct. 16. Both Houses of Parliament de- 
 stroyed by a fire which was not extinguished 
 several days : libraries and state papers preserved. 
 In 1828, Sir John Soane, noticing the great quantity 
 of timber used in the House of Lords, propheti- 
 cally asked : " Should a fire happen, what would 
 become of the Painted Chamber, the House of 
 Commons, and Westminster Hall ? Where would 
 the progress of the fire be arrested?" The latter 
 was saved by the favourable direction of the wind ; 
 for had the flames and flakes of fire from the two 
 Houses been wafted towards the vast timber roof 
 of the Hall, it must have been inevitably destroyed. 
 Among the strange stories in support of the fire 
 being the work of political incendiaries, is the 
 statement of Mr. Cooper, an ironmonger, of Drury- 
 lane, that he heard at Dudley, in Worcestershire 
 (119 miles from London), a report of the confla- 
 gration about three hours after it broke out. 
 
 1838. Jan. 10. The Eoyal Exchange burnt 
 within five hours; with a great amount of pro- 
 perty, documents of corporations, &c. 
 
 1841. Oct. 30. Conflagration in the Tower; the 
 great storehouse, with 280,000 stand of arms, and 
 the Bowyer and Butler Towers, burnt. 
 
 1843. Aug. 17. Great fire at Topping's Wharf, 
 London Bridge : Watson's telegraph tower and 
 St. OJave's Church burnt. 
 
 1849. March 29. The Olympic Theatre and a 
 dozen other buildings burnt in three hours. Oct. 6. 
 Extensive fire at London-wall ; Carpenters' Hall 
 injured : loss, 100,000 J. 
 
 1850. March 29. St. Anne's Church, Limehouse, 
 destroyed. Sept. 19. Great fire in Mark-lane and 
 Seething-lane ; loss, 100,0002. In the ruins was 
 discovered a tablet, inscribed : " This was rebuilt 
 in 1792. The foundation, or 'base courts,' are the re- 
 mains of the original palace where the City standard 
 of weights and measures were formerly kept, and 
 designated, in Saxon phraseology, ' Assay Thing 
 Court,' the entrance to which was in, as is now 
 called, ' Seething-lane.' " 
 
 1861. June 22. Conflagration in Tooley-street, 
 London Bridge ; property destroyed half a million. 
 
 FIRE SEIGADE. 
 
 THE early precautions for the prevention of Fires in the metropolis were remarkable. 
 A householder, within the liberty of the City, who dared to cover his house with 
 thatch, was sure to see his dwelling razed to the ground by the authorities. From the 
 time of the Fire in Stephen's reign, it was forbidden to bakers to light their oven-fires 
 at night (brewers were under similar stringent regulations) with reeds or loose straw ; 
 nothing but wood was legal. Lead, tile, or stones, were alone permitted in Edward the 
 Third's time for roofing. 
 
 In the first year of Richard I., the Wardmotes ordered : " Item, that all persons 
 who dwell in great houses within the ward have a ladder or two ready and prepared 
 to succour their neighbours in case misadventure should occur from fire. Item, that 
 all persons who occupy such houses, have in summer-time, and especially between the 
 Feast of Pentecost and the Feast of St. Bartholomew (August 24th), before their doors 
 a barrel full of water for quenching such fire, if it be not a house which has a fountain 
 of its own. Item, that the reputable men of the ward, with the aldermen, provide a 
 strong crook of iron, with a wooden handle, together with two chains and two strong 
 cords, and that the bedel have a good horn and loudly sounding. Of persona wander-
 
 342 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ing by uiglit, it is forbidden that any person shall be so dareing as to be found 
 wandering about the streets of the City after the curfew rung out at St. Martin's-le- 
 Grand, St. Laurance, or at Berkyngchirch, upon pain of being arrested." 
 
 The earliest mechanical contrivance for the extinction of fires in London appears to 
 have been a syringe or squirt, numbers of which were kept by the parochial authorities. 
 In the vestry-room of St. Dionis, Back-church, Fenchurch-street, are preserved three 
 of these squirts : each is about 2 feet 3 inches long, and when used was attached by 
 straps to the body of a man : others were worked by three men, two holding the squirt 
 by the handles and nozzle, while a third worked the piston within it. Such was the 
 rudiment of our first fire-engine. 
 
 " Now streets grow throng'd, and busy as by day : 
 
 Some run for buckets to the hallow'd quire ; 
 Some cut the pipes, and some the engines play, 
 And some, more bold, mount ladders to the fire." 
 
 Dryden's Annus ~M.iraW.is (1666). 
 
 The " engines" were the syringes, which were greatly increased after the Great 
 Fire, but were shortly afterwards superseded by regular fire-engines. By order of 
 the Corporation of London, a Fire Police was established in 1668 ; the several parishes 
 were provided with leathern buckets, ladders, pickaxes, sledges, shovels, and hand- 
 squirts of brass ; which supply the companies, aldermen, and subsidy-men contributed ; 
 and among other provisions was the ringing of a bell. The fire-cocks, and the " F.P." 
 and " W.M." upon houses to denote the place of the fire-plug and water-main ; and the 
 rewards for bringing the parish-engines, date from stat. 6 Anne, cap. 31. 
 
 The Great Fire led to the establishment of Insurance Offices against losses by fire : 
 in 1681, the Court of Common Council attempted to establish one, but unsuccessfully ; 
 the earliest was the Phoenix, at the Rainbow Coffee-house, Fleet-street, in 1682 ; the 
 Friendly Society, 1684 (badge a sheath of arrows) ; and the Hand-in-Hand, established 
 in 1696 ; next was the Sun, projected by one Povey, about 1706, and by the present 
 Company in 1710 ; the Westminster Fire Office, 1717 ; each office keeping its firemen 
 in liveries, with silver badges ; and their fire-engines, which they from time to time 
 improved. In 1676 was patented an engine with leathern pipes, for quenching fire ; 
 and about 1720 two Germans had at Bethnal-green a manufactory of water-tight 
 seamless hose. Here is Gay's mock-heroic picture of a fire of this-period : 
 " Now with thick crowds th' enlighten' d pavement swarms, 
 
 The fireman sweats beneath his crooked arms ; 
 
 A leathern casque his vent'rous head defends, 
 
 Boldly he climbs where thickest smoke ascends. 
 
 Mov'd by the mother's streaming eyes and prayers, 
 
 The helpless infant through the "flame he bears, 
 
 With no less virtue than through hostile fire 
 
 The Dardan hero bore his aged sire. 
 
 See forceful engines spout their leveled streams, 
 
 To quench the blaze that runs along the beams ; 
 
 The grappling-hook plucks rafters from the walls, 
 
 And heaps on heaps the smoky ruin falls. 
 
 * * * * * e 
 
 Hark ! the drum thunders ! far, ye crowds, retire : 
 
 Behold ! the ready match is tipt with fire, 
 
 The nitrous store is laid, the smutty train 
 
 With running blaze awakes the barrell'd grain, 
 
 Flames sudden wrap the walls ; with sullen sound 
 
 The shatter'd pile sinks on the smoky ground." Trivia, b. iil. 
 
 In 1798 was formed the Fire-watch or Fire-guard of London ; the Insurance Offices 
 still keeping their separate engine establishments. In 1808, Sir F. M. Eden, then 
 chairman of the Globe Insurance Company, proposed to form a general fire-engine esta- 
 blishment, but the attempt failed. About 1825, the Sun, Union, and Royal 
 Exchange formed a brigade. In 1832, eight Insurance Companies formed an alliance for 
 assisting each other at fires ; hence the " London Fire-Engine Establishment," which 
 commenced operations in 1833. By the rules, London was divided into five districts : 
 in each were engine-stations : besides a floating-engine off Rotherhithe and Southwark 
 Bridge ; these required more than 100 men each for working, and threw up two tuns 
 of water per minute. A certain number of the men or " Fire Brigade," superintended 
 by Mr. Braidwood, were ready at all hours of the day and night, as were also the 
 engines, to depart at a minute's alarm, in case of fire. The Associations awarded gra-
 
 FIRE BRIGADE. 343 
 
 tuities to policemen who gave an alarm to the nearest engine-station ; and the 
 director or captain of each engine paid strangers or bystanders for aid : it required 
 from twenty to thirty men to work each engine ; and at a large fire, 500 strangers were 
 sometimes thus employed. Sometimes the engines were summoned by electric tele- 
 graph, and conveyed by railway to fires in the country. 
 
 The number of engines kept was 37; of the Fire Brigade, 96. The men wore a dark grey 
 uniform, trimmed with red, black leather waist-belts, hardened leathern helmets, reminding one of 
 the leathern casque and "the Dardan hero " of Gay's Trivia. The engines were provided with scaling 
 ladders ; a canvas sheet, with handles of rope round the edge, to form a fire-escape ; besides ropes, hose, 
 branch-pipes, suction-pipes, a flat rose, goose-neck, dam-board, boat-hook, saw, shovel, mattock, pole- 
 axe, screw-wrench, crow bar, portable cistern, two dog-tails, strips of sheep-skin, small cord, instruments 
 for opening the fire-plugs, and keys for turning the stop-cocks of the water-mams. 
 
 Another ingenious provision was a smoke-proof dress, consisting of a leathern jacket and head cover- 
 ing, fastened at the waist and wrist, so that the interior is smoke-proof: two glass windows served for 
 the eyes to look through, and a pipe attached to the girdle allowed fresh air to be pumped into the interior 
 of the jacket, to support the respiration of the wearer : thus equipped, the fireman could dare the densest 
 smoke. 
 
 Steam-power was first applied to work a fire-engine in 1830. (See AB<JYLL ROOMS, 
 p. 22.) There is also on the Thames a steam floating-engine, the machinery of which 
 either propels the vessel, or works the pumps, as required. Subsequently were intro- 
 duced the land steam fire-engines, by which is diminished damage by water, which is 
 driven by such force by steam that almost every drop does its full duty. 
 
 The Royal Society for the Protection of Life from Fire was first established in 
 1836 ; re-organized in 1843 ; for establishing Fire-escape Stations and Conductors ; 
 supported by voluntary subscriptions and parochial vestries. 
 
 As London grows and grows, the number of Fires recorded every year in the vast 
 agglomeration of brick and mortar increases also. Thus in 1863 the total was 1404, 
 being 101 more than in 1862. In the latter year, the Parliamentary Committee ap- 
 pointed to inquire into the existing arrangements for the Protection of Life and Pro- 
 perty against Fire in the Metropolis, reported that twenty years previously the number 
 of fires in London was about 450, and in 1862 the total number was 1183. According 
 to Sir Richard Mayne's estimate, the whole of the Metropolitan Police area and the 
 City of London together, extending over 700 square miles, may be considered as con- 
 taining rather above 3,000,000 of inhabitants, residing in about 475,000 houses, and 
 the rental for taxation about 14,800,000^. The magnitude of the interest at stake was 
 also shown by Mr. Xewmarch, who stated in his evidence that the total value of pro- 
 perty insurable against fire within six miles of Charing Cross was not less than 
 900,000,000^., and of this not more than about 300,000,000^ were insured. 
 
 A new force, under the management of the Board of Works, and with the title of the 
 Metropolitan Fire Brigade, embodying the whole of the present force and engines of 
 the London Fire Establishment, is doubly strengthened. The plan decided on is that of 
 Captain Shaw, who has been appointed its chief superintendent. The force consists of 
 chiefs and 350 officers and men, 4 steam floating-engines, 4 large land-steamers, 27 
 small land-steamers, and 37 large manual engines, with horses, drivers, &c. These are 
 distributed among 33 large and 56 small fire-stations, protecting an area of about 117 
 square miles. Compared with the previous Fire Brigade, the increase is 72 additional 
 stations, 219 extra firemen, 2 large floating and 2 large land-steamers, 21 small land- 
 steamers, and 61 manual engines. The cost of its maintenance is not to exceed 50,000. 
 per annum, partly contributed by a public rate of \d. in the ponnd, 10,000. contributed 
 by the various metropolitan fire-insurance companies, and 10,000. from the Govern- 
 ment. There are nearly 500 parish engines in the metropolis, but not more than 20 
 were considered to be sufficiently efficient to be accepted in the new force. 
 
 By the establishment of telegraphic communication between the central station in 
 Watling-street and the other principal stations, the necessary force of men and engines 
 can be despatched to the required spot in a much shorter time than formerly. There 
 are also telegraph lines to docks, railways, wharves, and warehouses. 
 
 By the aid of the telegraph the firemen at each station can now be informed of the locality of a fire 
 with much greater certainty than formerly. By means of fixed compasses at each observatory, "cross- 
 bearings are taken from distant points," and the results sent to the central station in Watling-street. 
 The exact locality is then ascertained by observing on a map the spot at which the lines converge. The 
 process is simply the reverse of that by which a ship's position is ascertained at sea," and can be easily 
 accomplished in the three minutes occupied in turning out an engine. ;Capt. Shaw's Report, 1864.) 
 The crowds at fires are now kept off by stretched wire-ropes.
 
 344 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 FLEET PRISON (THE), 
 
 A BOLISHED and removed in 1846, after nearly eight centuries' existence, was in- 
 -ft- disputably named from the creek or stream of the Fleet, upon the eastern bank of 
 which it was erected. This was once a busy river covered with ships and small craft ; 
 now it is a dark, hidden stream. 
 
 The prison was formerly held in conjunction with the manor of Leveland, in Kent, 
 and with " the king's houses at Westminster:" the whole being part of the ancient 
 possessions of the See of Canterbury, traceable in a grant from Archbishop Lanfranc, 
 soon after the accession of William the Conqueror. The wardenship or serjeancy of 
 the prison was anciently held by several eminent personages, who also had custody of 
 the king's palace at Westminster.* It was " a place," in the worst sense of the 
 phrase; for, so long ago as 1586, the persons to whom the Warden had underlet it 
 were guilty of cruelty and extortion crimes, however, characteristic of the Court of 
 Star Chamber, of which the Fleet was at this time the prison. Up to this period, its 
 history is little better than a sealed book ; the burning of the prison by the followers 
 of Wat Tyler seeming to have been the only noticeable event. 
 
 In the reigns of Edward VI. and Mary, the Fleet was tenanted by several victims of 
 religious bigotry. Bishop Hooper was twice committed to the Fleet, which he only 
 quitted (1555) for the stake and the fire at Gloucester; upon his way whither, he slept 
 at the Angel Inn, St. Clement's : in the Fleet, his bed was "a little pad of straw, with 
 a rotten covering ;" his " chamber was vile and stinking." 
 
 The Warden's fees in the reign of Elizabeth were : an Archbishop, Duke, or Duchess, 
 for his commitment-fee, and the first week's " dyett," 21Z. 10*. ; a lord, spiritual or 
 temporal, 101. 5s. lOd. ; a knight, 5Z. ; an esquire, 31. 6s. 8d. ; and even " a poor man 
 in the wards, that hath a part at the box, to pay for his fee, having no dyett, 7s. 4>d." 
 The Warden's charge for license to a prisoner " to go abroad" was 20d. per diem. 
 
 From the reign of Elizabeth to the sixteenth year of Charles 1. (1641), the Star- 
 Chamber Court was in full activity ; and several bishops and other persons of distinction 
 were imprisoned in the Fleet for their religious opinions. Thither, too, were consigned the 
 political victims of the Star Chamber : two of the most interesting cases of this period 
 being those of Prynne and Lilburne. Prynne was taken out of the prison, and, after 
 suffering pillory, branding, mutilation of the nose and loss of ears, was remanded to the 
 Fleet. Lilburne " Freeborn John" and his printer, were committed to the Fleet 
 for libel and sedition : the former was smartly whipped at the cart's tail, from the 
 prison to the pillory, placed between Westminster Hall and the Star Chamber ; and 
 subsequently double ironed in the prison wards. 
 
 Another tenant of the Fleet at this period was James Howel, the author of the 
 Familiar Letters, several of which are dated from the prison. By a letter " to the 
 Earl of B., from the Fleet," Nov. 20, 1643, Howel was arrested " one morning be- 
 times," by five men armed with " swords, pistols, and oils," and some days after com- 
 mitted to the Fleet ; " and," he adds, " as far as I see, I must lie at dead anchor in this 
 Fleet a long time unlesse some gentle gale blow thence to make me launch out." Then 
 we find him consoling himself with the reflection that the English people are in 
 effect but prisoners, as all other islanders are. Other letters, by Howel, date from the 
 Fleet, 1645-6-7. 
 
 After the abolition of the Star Chamber, in 1641, the Fleet became a prison for 
 debtors only, and for contempt of the Court of Chancery, Common Pleas, and Ex- 
 chequer. It appears to have been used for the confinement of debtors from the thir- 
 teenth century, at least, by a petition from John Frauncey, a debtor in the Fleet, 
 A.D. 1290. 
 
 The prison was burnt down in the Great Fire ; when the prisoners were removed to 
 Caroone or Caron House, in South Lambeth, until the Fleet was rebuilt on theoriginalsite. 
 
 Long after the Star Chamber was abolished, the Wardens continued their extor- 
 tionate fees, and loading debtors with iron : their cruelties were exposed in 1696. In 
 1727, after a parliamentary investigation, Bambridge and Huggins (Wardens) and some 
 
 To the Warden belonged the rents of the shops in Westminster Hall.
 
 FLEET PRISON. 345 
 
 of their servants were tried for different murders, yet all escaped by a verdict of not 
 guilty ! Hogarth has, however, made them immortal in their infamy, by his picture 
 of Bambridge under examination, whilst a prisoner is explaining how he has been 
 tortured. 
 
 One Dance, the son of the architect, was imprisoned in the Fleet as a debtor, and, 
 in a poem entitled the Humours of the Fleet, 1749, has described the inmates of " this 
 poor but merry place," its rackets, or wrestle, billiards, backgammon, and whist ; the 
 rough justice of drenching disturbers of the peace beneath the pump. Dance's book 
 has a frontispiece of the prison-yard : a new-comer treating the gaoler, cook, and 
 others, to drink ; racket-playing against the high brick-wall, with chevaux-de-frise 
 mountings, and a pump and a tree in one corner. Dance tells of a " wind-up to-day in 
 a prison," that watchmen repeated, Who goes out 1 from half-past nine till St. Paul's 
 clock struck ten, to give visitors notice to depart ; when the last stroke was given, they 
 cried, All told; the gates were locked, and nobody suffered to go out upon any 
 account. The reader will, doubtless, recollect Mr. Dickens's life-like pictures of the 
 fleet, in his Pickwick Papers. 
 
 In the Riots of 1780, the Fleet was destroyed by fire, and the prisoners liberated by 
 the rioters. Most of the papers and Prison records were lost ; though there remain 
 scattered books and documents of several centuries back. The Warden had been 
 directed by the Lord Mayor not to make any resistance to the mob, which, as an eye- 
 witness informed the writer of a short History of the Fleet published in 1845, might 
 have been easily dispersed by a few soldiers. The rioters were polite enough to send 
 notice to the prisoners of the period of their coming ; and, on being informed it would 
 be inconvenient on account of the lateness of the hour, postponed their visit to the 
 following day. 
 
 Immediately after " the Riots," the prison was rebuilt : it consisted chiefly of one 
 long brick pile parallel with Farringdon-street, and standing in an irregularly -shaped 
 area, so as to leave open spaces before and behind, connected by passages round each 
 other : this pile was called the Master's Side. The front in Farringdon-street had an 
 arched opening into a room, and was technically called " the grate," from its crossed 
 iron bars. Above was inscribed, " Pray remember the poor prisoners having no allow- 
 ance " a small box was placed at the window-sill, to receive the charity of passengers 
 in the street, while a prisoner within shouted in suppliant tone the above prayer. This 
 was a relic of the ancient prison, corresponding with the " begging at the grate" in some 
 old comedies; and "having a part at the box" already mentioned. Disorderly 
 prisoners were put in the stocks, or strong-room ; and those who attempted to escape were 
 confined in a tub at the prison-gate. There was likewise " the Running Box ;" that is, 
 a man running to and fro in the neighbouring streets, shaking a box, and begging the 
 passengers to put money into it, for the poor prisoners in the Fleet. In Tempest's Cries 
 of London, 1710, is a representation of the bearer of the Running Box, inscribed, 
 "Remember the poor prisoners." At his back is suspended, by leathern straps, a 
 covered basket for broken victuals ; he carries in one hand a staff, and in the other a 
 small round deep box, with an aperture in the lid for receiving alms in money. 
 
 Above the entrance to the prison was the figure 9 ; so that a delicate address given 
 by the prisoners was " No. 9, Fleet Market." 
 
 Alack ! what " strange bedfellows " did debt a phase of misery make men acquainted with in the 
 Fleet ! If a prisoner was unwilling to go to the Common Side (for which he paid nothing), he had the 
 choice of going down into " Bartholomew Fair," the lowest and sunken story, where he paid 1. 3d. for 
 the undisturbed use of a room ; or up to some of the better apartments, where he paid the same rent, 
 but was subject to chummage i.e., a fellow-prisoner put into his room, or "chummed upon him," but 
 who might be got rid of by a payment of 4s. 6d. per week, or more, according to the fulness of the 
 prison. The latter prisoner would then provide himself with a common lodging, by letting which 
 prisoners in the Fleet were known to have accumulated hundreds of pounds in the course of a few years. 
 The prison sometimes had 1000 inmates. 
 
 It was throughout a sad scene of recreant waste, vagabondism, and ruffian recklessness : it had a 
 skittle-shed ; and a racket-ground, where Cavanajrh was a noted fives-player. (See Hazlitt's life of him, 
 Examiner, Feb. 17, 1819.) Here you might hear the roar of the great town from without, in contrast 
 with the stagnant life within the prison-walls, above the chevaux-de-frise of which might be seen a 
 church-spire or two. 
 
 Happily, this pest of a prison, the Fleet, by Act of Parliament, 1842, was abolished, 
 and its few inmates were drafted to the Queen's Prison. The property, covering nearly
 
 346 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 an acre of ground, was purchased of the Government by the Corporation of London for 
 25,000^. The prison was taken down, and the materials sold, in 1816 ; comprising nearly 
 three millions of bricks, 50 tons of lead, 40,000 feet of paving, &c. The ground, after 
 lying almost useless for 17 years, was sold to the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway 
 Company for the erection of their Ludgate station. 
 
 The liberty of the Rules and the Day-Rules of the Fleet may be traced to the time of Richard II., 
 when prisoners were allowed to go at large by bail, or with a baston (tipstaff), for nights and days 
 together. This license was paid for at 8d. per day, and I2d. for his keep that shall be with him. These 
 were Day-rules. However, they were confirmed by a rule of Court during the reign of James I. The 
 Rules wherein prisoners were allowed to lodge were enlarged in 1824, so as to include the churches of 
 St. Bride's and St. Martin's, Ludgate; New Bridge-street. Blackfriars, to the Thames; Dorset-street and 
 Salisbury-square, and part of Fleet-street, Ludgate-hill and street, to the entrance of St. Paul's 
 Churchyard, the Old Bailey, and the lanes, courts, &e., in the vicinity of the above ; the 
 extreme circumference of the liberty about a mile and a half. Those requiring the rules had to 
 provide sureties for their forthcoming, and keeping within the boundaries, and to pay a percentage 
 on the amount of debts for which they were detained ; which also entitled them to the liberty of the 
 Day-rules, enabling them during term, or the sitting of the Courts at Westminster, to go abroad during 1 
 the day, to transact or arrange their affairs, &c. The Fleet and the Queen's Bench were the only prisons 
 in the kingdom to which these privileges had for centuries been attached. 
 
 Fleet Marriages, i.e. clandestine marriages, were performed in this prison pre- 
 viously to the year 1754 ; and though not legal and regular, they were tacitly recog- 
 nised as being valid and indissoluble. Many of these weddings were really performed 
 in the chapel of the prison ; though, as the practice extended, " the Fleet parsons" and 
 tavern-keepers in the neighbourhood fitted up a room in their lodgings or houses as a 
 chapel ; and most of the taverns near the Fleet kept their own registers. In 1702,. 
 the Bishop of London interfered to prevent this scandalous practice, but with little 
 effect ; and it was not until the Act of Parliament came into operation, March 25, 
 1754, that the custom was put an end to. On the day previously (March 24,) in one 
 register-book alone, were recorded 217 marriages, which were the last of the Fleet 
 weddings. In 1821, a collection of these register-books, weighing more than a ton 
 (recording Fleet marriages between 1686 and 1754), was purchased by Government, 
 and deposited in the Eegistry Office of the Bishop of London, Godliman- street, Doctors' 
 Commons. Many celebrated names figure in these registers ; and although they are 
 not now, as formerly, received in evidence on trials, they are not altogether useless as 
 matters of record, &c. For their history, their parsons, and registers, see Mr. J. Burn's 
 volume. 
 
 Pope commemorates the Fleet Prison as a " Haunt of the Muses." Lord Surrey, the poet, was twice 
 imprisoned here; as was Nash for writing the satirical play of the Isle of Dogs, Wycherley, the wit and 
 dramatist, lay in the Fleet seven years, ruined through his Countess' settlement being disputed. Sir 
 Richard Baker was one of the most unfortunate debtors confined here : he married in 1620, and soon 
 after got into pecuniary difficulties, and was thrown into the Fleet, where he spent the remaining years 
 of his life, writing his Chronicle and other works as a means of subsistence ; he died in 1644-5, in 
 extreme poverty, and was interred in old St. Bride's Church. Francis Sandford, author of the Genea- 
 logical History, died in the Fleet, in 1693. Passing to another class of committals Keys was sent here 
 for marrying the Lady Mary Grey, the sister of Lady Jane Grey ; Dr. Donne for marrying Sir George 
 More's daughter without her father's knowledge ; Sir Robert Killigrew, for speaking to Sir Thomas 
 Overbury, as he came from visiting Sir Walter Kaleigh ; the Countess of Dorset, for pressing into the 
 Privy Chamber, and importuning James I., " contrary to commandment ;" and Lucius Carey, Viscount 
 Falkland, for sending a challenge. Curll's Corinna (Mrs. Thomas) was a prisoner in the Fleet for some 
 time; Mrs. Cornelys died here in 1797; and Parson Ford, in 1731. Parson Keith, of May Fair, was here 
 in 1758; and Robert Lloyd, Churchill's friend, in 1764. Arthur Murphy, provoked by the satires of 
 Churchill and Lloyd, describes them as among the poor hacks 
 
 " On Ludgate-hill who bloody murders write, 
 Or pass in Fleet-street supperless the night." 
 
 Howel's Letters, already mentioned, have had a parallel in our time, in Richard Oastler's Fleet 
 Papers, " a weekly epistle on public matters," inscribed to Thomas Thornhill, Esq., of Fixby Hall, York- 
 shire, whose steward Oastler had been, and at whose suit he was imprisoned here ; he was liberated by 
 subscription, Feb. 12, 1844: and a bronze group, by Philip, has been erected at Bradford, in memory 
 of his advocacy of the Ten Hours' Factory Bill. Mr. Rowcroft also wrote a volume of Fleet Paper*. 
 
 FLEET RIVER AND FLEET DITCH. 
 
 T1HE small, rapid stream Fleet, which has given name to the Prison and Street, and 
 -* the portion of the City Wall ditch from Holborn to the Thames, has its origin in 
 a nursery-ground on the eastern ridge of Hampstead Hill. Here it becomes a sewer, 
 after which it issues from the side of a bank below Well Walk ; and then flows down a 
 small valley of gardens and orchards to near the reservoir of the Hampstead water-heads, 
 to feed which the springs of the Fleet were collected in 1589, and were afterwards leased
 
 FLEET EIVER AND FLEET DITCH. 
 
 out by the City of London. From Hampstead the Fleet may be traced to the upper 
 part of Kentish Town, after which it is diverted from its original course for the sewer- 
 age of Camden Town ; but its ancient channel may be traced at the back of the Castle 
 Tavern, Kentish Town, next in the King's-road, near St. Pancras Workhouse ; and 
 about 1825, the Fleet was conspicuous all along the Bagnigge-wells-road, but is now 
 covered over. Its further course is under the walls of the House of Correction, in 
 Cold-bath-fields, thence to the workhouse in Coppice-row, under Eyre-street (for- 
 merly Hockley-in-the-Hole), having here been formerly joined by " the Kiver of the 
 Wells," formed by Clerken, Skinners', and other wells ; and thus to the bottom of 
 Holborn. Here it received the waters of the Old Bourne, which rose near Middle-row, 
 and the channel of which forms the sewer of Holborn Hill to this day. Thence the 
 united streams flowed beneath what is now called Farringdon-street into the Thames. 
 
 Stow mentions "that a Parliament being holden at Carlisle in the year 1307, the 
 35 Edward I., Henry Lacy Earle of Lincolne complained, that whereas (in times past) 
 the course of water, running at London under Old-borne Bridge, and Fleet Bridge, into 
 the Thames, had beene of such bredth and depth that ten or twelve ships, Navies at 
 once, with Merchandises, were wont to come to the aforesaid bridge of Fleet, and some 
 of them unto Old-borne Bridge," &c. An anchor has been discovered as high as the 
 present Bagnigge-wells-road ; and even, it is said, the remains of a ship, in the bed of 
 this ancient river, near Camden Town. The upper supply of water being diverted, the 
 ditch became stagnant, and into it were thrown all sorts of offal, dogs and cats, and 
 measled hogs, which Ben Jonson has minutely described : it became also a kind of 
 cloaca maxima, impassable with boats ; in 1652 it was ordered to be cleansed, but the 
 nuisance was scarcely abated. 
 
 The Fleet was anciently crossed by four bridges within the boundary of the City : 
 the first of these, Holborn Bridge, was covered up in 1802, but the arch and part of 
 the parapet were discovered during the repair of the ditch, in 1841. 
 
 In the bed of the Fleet many Roman and Saxon coins have been discovered. In 1670 various Roman 
 utensils were found between Holborn and Fleet Bridge; besides Roman coins, including silver ring- 
 money. At Holborn Bridge were dug up two brazen lares, about four inches long, Bacchus and Ceres ; 
 also arrow-heads, scales, and seals, with the proprietors' names upon them in Saxon characters ; spur- 
 rowels, keys, and daggers ; medals, crosses, crucifixes, &o. 
 
 The second was Fleet-lane Bridge, near the Prison. Fleet Bridge, the third, con- 
 nected Fleet-street with Ludgate-hill : it was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666; 
 and in its place, another, the breadth of the street (Strype), was erected, ornamented 
 with pine-apples and the City arms; it was finally removed in 1765. The fourth 
 bridge crossed the Fleet opposite Bridewell, formerly the site of a tower, supposed to 
 have appertained to the Saxon kings of England. 
 
 After the Great Fire, the Fleet, or Town Ditch, between Holborn and the Thames, 
 was cleansed and deepened by the Corporation, so that barges ascended to Holborn 
 Bridge, as formerly : wharfs and landing places were constructed ; and Seacoal and 
 Newcastle lanes, and large inn-yards, remaining to this day, attest the barge traffic. 
 Seacoal-lane is mentioned under that name (Secol-lane,) as early as 1253; where, 
 doubtless, the coal was brought in barges up the Fleet river, and stored for domestic 
 purposes. This " New Canal," as it was called, cost 27,777^., but proved unprofitable : 
 it became choked with Thames mud, and again relapsed into a common sewer. Gay 
 sings of its " muddy current ; and Pope points 
 
 " To where Fleet-ditch, with disemboguing streams 
 Rolls the large tribute of dead dogs to Thames, 
 The king of dykes ! than whom no sluice of mud 
 With deeper sable blots the silver flood." The Dunciad, book ii. 
 
 Swift thus revels in its delicice, in his City Shower : 
 
 "Now from all parts the swelling kennels flow, 
 And bear their trophies with them as they go ; 
 Filth of all hues and odours seem to tell 
 What street they sail'd from by their sight and smell. 
 They, as each torrent drives its rapid force, 
 From Smithfield to St. 'Pulchre's shape their course, 
 And in huge confluence joined at Snowhill ridge, 
 Fall from the Conduit prone to Holborn Bridge ; 
 Sweepings from butchers' stalls, dung, guts, and blood, 
 Drown'd puppies, stinking sprats, all drench' d in mud, 
 Dead cats, and turnip-tops, come tumbling down the flood."
 
 348 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Fleet Ditch is engraved as the frontispiece to Warburton's Pope, vol. v. (The 
 Dunciad.) The ditch grew to be so pestilential a nuisance,* its slime smothering many 
 persons who fell into it, that the space between Holborn Bridge and Fleet-street was 
 arched over, and Stocks Market removed here, changed to Fleet Market, and opened 
 for the sale of meat, fish, and vegetables, Sept, 30, 1737 ; and upon the site of Stocks 
 Market was built the Mansion House. The remaining portion of the Fleet, the mouth 
 of which Pennant describes as " a muddy and genuine ditch," continued open until 
 1765, at the building of Blackfriars Bridge ; the foul stream was then arched over, 
 and entered the Thames on the west side of the bridge, to be conveyed some distance 
 into the river by a culvert ; the vaulting at this end is 12 feet high, and the channel 
 18 feet wide. (See SEWEES.) 
 
 Since 1841, Fleet Ditch, parallel with Field-lane, has been covered over ; but it might 
 be traced in the alleys at the back of Cow-cross, whence it continued open to Ray-street, 
 Clerkenwell ; while Brookhill and Turnmill streets kept in memory the brook which 
 ran here into the Fleet, and the mill belonging to the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, 
 which was turned by its waters. 
 
 In 1829 was completed a new market between the north end of Farringdon-street 
 and Shoe-lane ; whither, on Nov. 20, was removed Fleet Market, the premises of 
 which were then taken down. At the south end of Farringdon-street is a granite 
 obelisk, erected in 1839 to the memory of Alderman Waithman, who commenced busi- 
 ness as a linendraper close to this spot in 1785 ; was Lord Mayor in 1823-21, and was 
 returned six times to Parliament for the City of London. Opposite Waithman' s obelisk 
 ia a monument which bears the name of a much less worthy citizen, John Wilkes, 
 and the year of his mayoralty, 1775. 
 
 In 1855, the valley of the Fleet, from Coppice-row to Farringdon-street, was cleared 
 of many old and decaying dwellings, many of a date anterior to the Fire of London. 
 From Coppice-row a fine view of St. Paul's Cathedral was opened by the removal of 
 these buildings. 
 
 In making the excavation for the great sewer which now conveys from view the Fleet Ditch, at a 
 depth of about 13 feet below the surface in Ray-street, near the corner of Little Saffron-hill, the work- 
 men came upon the pavement of an old street, consisting of very large blocks of ragstone of irregular 
 shape. An examination of the paving-stones showed that the street had been well used : they are worn 
 quite smooth by the footsteps and traffic of a past generation. Below the old street was found another 
 phase of Old London. Thickly covered with slime were piles of oak, hard and black, which had seem- 
 ingly been portions of a mill-dam. A lew feet below were very old wooden water-pipes, nothing but the 
 rough trunks of trees. The course of time and the weight of matter above the old pavement had pressed 
 the gravel, clay, granite, portions of tiles, &c., into a hard and almost solid mass, and it was curious to 
 observe that near the old surface were great numbers of pins. Whither have the pins gone ? is a query 
 which has puzzled many. The now hard concrete, stuck with these useful articles, almost like a pin- 
 cushion, is a partial reply to the query. The 13 feet of newer deposit would seem to have accumulated 
 in two or three centuries : it is not unlikely that a portion of the rubbish from the City after the Great 
 Fire was shot here. The Builder. 
 
 FLEET-STREET, 
 
 TVTAMED from the river Fleet, and extending from the junction of Farringdon- 
 *- ' street and New Bridge-street, is one of the most ancient and celebrated thorough- 
 fares in London. For many centuries it has been noted for its exhibitions and proces- 
 sions ; its printers, stationers, and booksellers ; its early coffee-houses and taverns, and 
 banking-houses. It has leading from it thirty-four streets, lanes, and courts. 
 
 Fleet-street was noted for its signs: the counting of them, " from Temple Bar to the furthest con- 
 duit in Cheapside," &c., is quoted as a remarkable instance of Fuller's memory. (Life, &c., p. 76, ed. 
 1662.) The swinging of one of these broad signs, in a high wind, and the weight of iron on which it 
 acted, sometimes brought the wall down ; and one front-fall of this kind in Fleet-street-maimed several 
 persons, and killed'' two young ladies, a eobler, and the King's jeweller." The Doctor, by K. Southey. 
 one vol. edit. p. 237. 
 
 Before the Great Fire, and long after, Fleet-street was badly paved ; the houses, 
 mostly of timber, overhung in all imaginable positions ; and the shops were rude sheds 
 with a penthouse, beneath which the tradesmen unceasingly called " What d'ye lack, 
 gentles? What d'ye lack ?" It was then but a suburb. Temple-bar was originally 
 
 * Chamberlayne (1727), however, mentions it as "a mighty chargeable and beautiful work: the 
 curious stone bridges over it ; the many huge vaults on each side thereof, to treasure up Newcastle coals 
 lor the use of the poor."
 
 FLEET-STREET. 349 
 
 a wooden gatehouse across the road to divide the City from Westminster ; and often in 
 Fleet-street might be seen men playing at football. 
 
 The street was encumbered with posts, upon which the performances at the theatres were announced ; 
 hence posting-bills. Taylor, the water-poet, relates that Master Field, the player, riding up Fleet-street 
 at a great pace, a gentleman called him, and asked him what play was to be played that day ? He being 
 angry to be stayed on so frivolous a demand, answered that he might see what play was to be played on 
 every pott. " I cry your mercy," said the gentleman ; " I took you for a post, you rode so fast." 
 
 Fleet-street retains its celebrity for printing-offices in the adjoining lanes and courts, 
 greatly increased by the newspapers of the last half century. The Great Fire stopped 
 three houses eastward of St. Dunstan's, and within a few doors of the Inner Temple- 
 gate, nearly opposite. 
 
 No. 103 (now Sunday Times office) was formerly the shop of Alderman Waithman, 
 whither he removed from the south end of Fleet-market. At No. 106, the sign of the 
 Red Lion, Hardham's 37-snuff was first made and sold by John Hardham, olim 
 Garrick's " numberer." In 1824, Nov. 14, several old houses on the south side of the 
 street were destroyed by fire, besides that in which Milton had lodged, in St. Bride's 
 Churchyard. Subsequently was opened the present architectural avenue to St. Bride's 
 Church, designed by J. B. Papworth : cost, 10,000/. At the east corner, No. 86, was 
 . published by D. Bogue, in 1855, the first edition of the Curiosities of London, of which 
 3000 copies were sold. 
 
 In Bride-lane is the ancient St. Bride's Well, over which is a pump ; and here is 
 Cogers' Hall, a tavern, where the Cogers met from 1756. Curran made his first 
 oratorical effort among the Cogers; Daniel O'Connell was a member; as was also 
 Judge Keogh. 
 
 In Shoe-lane, leading to Holborn-hill, was a notorious cockpit in Pepys's time. At the 
 north end, from 1378 to 1647, was the town-house of the Bishop of Bangor; and a 
 part of the garden, with lime-trees and a rookery, existed in 1759 ; the mansion 
 was taken down in 1828. Shoe-lane is associated with four poets : in the burial- 
 ground of St. Andrew's Workhouse, now covered by Farringdon Market, was buried 
 Chatterton ; in St. Andrew's Churchyard lies Henry Neele; in Gunpowder-alley, in 
 1658, died in abject poverty, Richard Lovelace, the cavalier poet, " the most amiable 
 and beautiful person that eyes ever beheld ; "* in 1749, in a wretched lodging-house off 
 Shoe-lane, died Richard Boyce. In Gunpowder-alley, too, lived Evans, the astrologer, 
 the friend and instructor of Lilly, the " Sidrophel" of Hudibras. 
 
 Opposite Shoe-lane was the famous Fleet-street Conduit. (See p. 288.) At No. 134, 
 the Globe tavern, frequented by Goldsmith, and Macklin the actor, was held the Robin 
 Hood Club. Salisbury-court, nearly facing, was once the inn of the bishops of Salis- 
 bury; -then of the Sackvilles, and was called Sackville House and Dorset House ; whence 
 Dorset-street. After the Great Fire, Wren built for Davenant " the Duke's Theatre," 
 opened 1671, where Betterton played : it had a picturesque front to the Thames ; upon 
 its site are the City Gas-works. Salisbury or Dorset- court had also its play-house, 
 originally the granary of Salisbury House; it was pulled about by sectarian soldiers hi 
 16-19, rebuilt in 1660, but destroyed in the Great Fire. The court was a scene of the Mug- 
 house Riots of 1716, and here was a noted Mug-house. In Salisbury-court (now square) 
 Richardson wrote his Pamela, and printed his own novels ; his printing-office being at 
 the top of the court, now No. 76, Fleet-street : Goldsmith was once Richardson's 
 " reader ;" and here was printed Maitland's London, folio, 1739. Richardson was 
 visited here by Hogarth, Dr. Johnson, Dr. Young ; Seeker, Archbishop of Canterbury ; 
 and Mrs. Barbauld, when a playful child. Here was also the printing-office of Gillett, 
 twice destroyed, in 1805 and 1810, by fire : the premises were rebuilt ; and here, in 
 1814 were burnt 10,000 copies of the Memoir of the notorious Mary Anne Clarke, upon 
 condition of her debts being paid, and an annuity of 400Z. granted her : the burning 
 occupied three entire days. 
 
 Water-lane (now Whitefriars-streef) leads to Whitefriars, named from a convent of 
 white-robed Carmelites, and called Alsatia from 1608 to 1696 (see Scott's Fortunes of 
 Nigel) ; extending from Fleet-street to the Thames, and from the western side of 
 Water-lane to the Temple : it was a privileged sanctuary, abolished in 1697 : a notorious 
 
 * George Petty, haberdasher, in Fleet-street, carried twenty shillings to Lovelace every Monday 
 morning, from Sir Many, and Charles Cotton, Esq., for months, until the poet's death.
 
 350 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 retreat for cheating creditors, had its cant Lombard-street ; and had many a Cheatly, 
 Shamwell, Hackum, and Scapeall. (See Shadwell's Squire of Alsatia.) At the 
 Harrow, in Water-lane, lived Filby, Goldsmith's tailor. No. 64, Fleet-street, much 
 altered, is the Bolt-in-Tun Inn, mentioned in a grant to the White Friars in 1443, 
 as " Hospitium vocatum Le Boltenton ; " the sign is an arrow, or bolt, partly in a tun. 
 In Whitefriars-street, adjoining, is the Black Lion, a small inn-yard, with the exterior 
 wooden gallery in part remaining. 
 
 At the east corner of Peterborough-court was one of the earliest shops for the 
 Instantaneous Light apparatus, " Hertner's Eupyrion " (phosphorus and oxymuriate 
 matches, to be dipped in sulphuric acid and asbestos), the costly predecessor of the 
 Lucifer-match. Nearly opposite were the works of Jacob Perkins, the engineer of the 
 steam-gun, exhibited at the Adelaide Gallery, Strand ; and which the Duke of Wel- 
 lington truly foretold would never be advantageously employed in warfare. About 
 midway on the north side lived Thomas Hardy, the bootmaker, who was tried with 
 Home Tooke, in 1794, for treason ; he was also one of the three who commenced the 
 London Corresponding Society, and its secretary : he died in his 82nd year, and is 
 buried in Bunhill-fields, beneath a semi-political monument. 
 
 On the north side is Bolt-court, where, at No. 8, Dr. Johnson lived from 1776 till 
 his death in 1784 ; while here, Johnson unsuccessfully applied (in 1776) to the Earl 
 of Hertford, requesting apartments in Hampton Court Palace. Johnson's house was 
 subsequently Bensley's printing-office, and was burnt June 26, 1819. The Johnson's 
 Head tavern was not contemporary with the Doctor. (See Notes and Queries, No. 
 123.) At No. 4, Ferguson, the astronomer, died Nov. 1776. In the court, Cobbett 
 wrote, printed, and published his Political Register, and sold Indian corn. The 
 Register was subsequently published at No. 83, Fleet-street, where was exhibited a 
 large iron Gridiron, which Cobbett had made for his political sign. No. 3, Bolt-court, 
 was bequeathed to the Medical Society of London by Dr. Lettsom ; over the door is 
 an emblematic bas-relief. The Society removed, in 1851, to 33, George-street, 
 Hanover-square. 
 
 Wine-office-court : Goldsmith lodged here in 1761, when Johnson first visited him ; 
 Goldsmith then wrote for the Public Ledger newspaper, and began the Vicar of 
 Wakefield. Here is an old chop-house, the Cheshire Cheese, long noted for punch. 
 
 Johnson' 's-court : at No. 7, Samuel Johnson lived 1765 to 1776 ; the John Bull 
 newspaper was commenced here, at No. 11, in 1820, with Theodore Hook as editor. 
 Northward is Gough-square, where, at No. 17, Johnson compiled the greater portion 
 of his Dictionary, 1748 to 1758. 
 
 Serjeants' Inn, on the south side of Fleet-street, was formerly an inn of court ; the 
 handsome offices were designed by Adam. No. 13, Fleet-street, the Amicable Life 
 Assurance office, was rebuilt in 1839 ; the Society was first chartered by Queen Anne. 
 
 CEANE-COUET. (See p. 296.) 
 
 Red Lion-court : printing-offices of John Nichols (Gentleman's Magazine), burnt 
 Feb. 8, 1808; of Messrs. Valpy (Classics), where Punch was next printed; and of 
 Kichard Taylor, F.R.S. (Philosophical Magazine). 
 
 Hare-court (originally Ram-alley), opposite Fetter-lane, was noted for its public- 
 houses and cook-shops, often mentioned in 17th century plays : it was a sanctuary 
 until 1697. 
 
 No. 17, Fleet-street, is an interesting specimen of olden street-architecture ; above 
 the gateway to the Inner Temple, of plain Jacobean design, with a semicircular arch, 
 and the Pegasus in the spandrils. It was built in 1609, and was not as inscribed, 
 "Formerly the Palace of Henry VIII. and Cardinal Wolsey." 
 
 One of the Curiosities of Fleet-street was Mrs. Salmon's Moving Waxwork, originally established at 
 the Golden Salmon, St. Martin's, near Aldersgate (Harl. MS. 5931 : Brit. Mus.) : " it would have been 
 ridiculous for the ingenious Mrs. Salmon to have lived at the sign of the Trout." (The Spectator, No. 28. ) 
 Thence the Waxwork was removed to No. 189, Fleet-street, site of Messrs. Praed's banking-house. At 
 the death of Mrs. Salmon, aged 90, the collection was purchased by Mr. Clarke, a surgeon (father of Sir 
 Charles Mansfield Clarke, M.D.), as an investment for his wife. Mrs. Clarke continued the exhibition 
 as Mrs. Salmon's, at No. 189, until 1795, when it was removed to No. 17, nearly opposite, at the cast 
 corner of Inner Temple-lane ; and here shown, with a figure of Anne Siggs, on crutches, at the door, 
 until Mrs. Clarke's death in 1812. The collection, much reduced, was then sold for 501., and subsequently 
 shown at the west corner of Water-lane. Mrs. Salmon, with more probability, styled the above house 
 " once the Palace of Henry Prince of Wales, son of King James I. j" but this residence is not mentioned
 
 FLEET-STREET. 351 
 
 by his biographers : the first-floor front-room has, however, an enriched plaster ceiling, inscribed P. 
 (triple plume) H., which, with part of the carved wainscoting, denote the house to be of the time of 
 James I. Still, we do not find in the lives of Prince Henry any indication of this house as a royal 
 palace. It appears that the house, though never the residence of Prince Henry, was the office 
 in which the Council for the Management of the Duchy of Cornwall Estates held their eittingt, in his 
 time ; and hi the Calendar of State Papers, edited by Mrs. Green, we find entries dated from the Council- 
 Chamber, in Fleet-street. The interior of the house is in the style of Inigo Jones, whose first office waa 
 Surveyor of the Works to Henry, Prince of Wales, until the year 1613. 
 
 In Fleet-street are the oldest banking firms, except Stone, Martin & Co., Lom- 
 bard-street, who claim to be the successors of Sir Thomas Gresham. No. 1, Fleet- 
 street (formerly the Marygold) is the banking-house of Child and Co., who date from 
 soon after the Restoration; they occupy the rooms over Temple-bar for stowage of 
 their books of accounts. 
 
 This firm was founded in the reign of Charles I., when Francis Child, apprentice to William Wheeler, 
 a goldsmith, whose shop was on the site of the present banking-house, laid the foundation of his fortune 
 by marrying his master's daughter, by which he succeeded to the estate and business. Messrs. Child 
 have the accounts of Nell Gwynne; and among the records of the firm are the accounts of the 
 partner, Alderman Backwell, for the sale of Dunkirk to the French. The principal of the firm is the 
 Countess of Jersey, wife of George Child Villiers, Earl of Jersey, who assumed the name of Child upon 
 his Countess inheriting the estates of her maternal grandfather, Robert Child, Esq., of Osterley Park, 
 Middlesex. " In the catalogue of a sale of prints, &c., by Mr. Hodgson, 9th June, 1834, lot 270, is an 
 original sketch in oil by Hogarth, representing a memorable occurrence in the house of Child and Co., 
 when they were delivered by temporary munificence of the Duchess of Marlborough." 
 
 Next is Gosling's, No. 19, sign of Three Squirrels, in the iron-work of a window, 
 originally on a lozenge shield. 
 
 Gosling, as founder of the house, is thus mentioned in the account of Secret Service Monies of 
 Charles II. and James I. : "To Richard Bakenham, in full, for several parcells of gold and silver lace, 
 bought of William Gosling and partners, on 2nd May, 1674, by the Dutchess of Cleveland, for the wedding- 
 clothes of Lady Sussex and Lichfield, 640Z. 8s." 
 
 Messrs. Hoares', No. 37 (Golden Bottle), dates from 1680. 
 
 The Golden Bottle is said to represent the flask carried by the founder of the establishment, when 
 journeying to London, as the story-books say, to seek his fortune. Richard Hoare, Esq., the principal of 
 the firm, succeeded Sir F. Child as Alderman of the Ward of Farringdon Without ; was Sheriff in 1740-41, 
 in which year there were three Lord Mayors. Mr. Hoare has left a manuscript journal of his shrievalty, 
 illustrating various customs, privileges, and "treats" of the City, and concluding thus: " after being 
 regaled with sack and walnuts, I returned to my own house in my private capacity, to my great con- 
 solation and comfort." He was Lord Mayor hi 1746. 
 
 Fleet-street was long ago the abode of dentists and makers of artificial teeth. An 
 Almanac of 1709, advertises, " John Watts, operator, who applies wholly to the said 
 business, and lives in Racquet-court, Fleet-street." 
 
 Fleet-street has been the cradle of printing, almost from its first introduction : Wynkyn de Worde 
 (assistant of Caxton), at the Golden Sun, Swan, and Falcon, the latter in Falcon-court; the imprint to 
 the Demaundes Joyou* is as follows : 
 
 " Emprynted at London in Fletestre 
 
 te at the signe of the Swane by 
 
 me Wynkyu de Worde 
 
 In the yere of our 
 
 lorde A M 
 
 c c c c c 
 
 and xi 
 
 There, however, exists a book inscribed : " emprynted by me Richarde Pynson at the temple barre of 
 London 1493." To these may be added Rastell, " at the signe of the Starre;" of Richard Tottel, the 
 eminent law printer and publisher, " within Temple bar, at the signe of the Hande and Starre," now the 
 house and property of Messrs. Butterworth, who possess all the original leases of the same, including 
 Tottel's, in the reign of Henry VIII., to the present time. 
 
 The following were also contemporary printers in Fleet-street, viz.: Robert Copland, stationer, 
 printer, bookseller, author, and translator : his sign, in 1515, was the Rose Garland. John Butler lived 
 at the sign of St. John the Evangelist in 1529. Thomas Bertholit, King's printer, dwelt at the Lucretia 
 Bomana : he retired from business about 1641. John Bedel, stationer and printer, lived, in 1531, at the 
 sign of Our Lady of Pity. John Waylond, citizen and stationer, lived at the Blue Garland, 1541. Lawrence 
 Andrew, a native of Calais, was a printer at the Golden Press, by Fleet-bridge. Thomas Godfrey, the 
 printer of Chaucer's works, lived near the Temple-bar. 
 
 Here, too, we find the cradle of steam-printing : Bensley, of Bolt-court, being the first to aid the 
 labours of Konig, who had applied to German and other Continental printers unsuccessfully. Konig and 
 Bensley were joined by Woodfall and Taylor, printers; and out of their joint exertions grew cylindrical 
 printing, of which Mr. Walter, of the Times newspaper, was the first to avail himself, 28th of November, 
 1814; Bensley's inking apparatus was, however, superseded by Cowper's a very important advance. 
 Soon after the above date, we remember to have seen a large working cylinder-machine, which had been 
 invented by Winch, a printer's joiner, while he was confined in the King's Bench Prison for debt. 
 
 Two of the most disastrous fires in Fleet-street were those at the printing-office of S. Hamilton, in 
 Falcon-court, when printing materials, &c., were consumed to the value of 80,000i., February 21, 1803; 
 and at Bensley's, Bolt-court, June 1819, where the costly woodcuts and printed stock of Dalloway's elabo- 
 rate History of Sussex were destroyed. Abridged from Walk* and Talks about London.
 
 352 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The old Fleet-street taverns and coffee-houses are mostly up passages. Upon the site 
 of Child's-place was the Devil Tavern, sign St. Dunstan pulling the Devil's nose : here, 
 in the Apollo chamber, over the door, were inscribed the verses by Jonson, commencing, 
 
 " Welcome, all who lead or follow, 
 To the oracle of Apollo." 
 
 Here Ben Jonson and his sons used to make their liberal meetings ; the rules of Ben's 
 Club in gold letters over the chimney. (Tatler, No. 79.) These are preserved in the 
 premises, at the back of Child's bank, No. 1, with a terra-cotta bust of Apollo : the 
 contemporary landlord was Sim Wadlow, "the king of skinkers." (Jonson.) The 
 club-room, fitted with a music-gallery, was afterwards used for balls and entertain- 
 ments ; and the house continued to be the resort of the wits of the last century : " I 
 dined to-day" (Oct. 12, 1710) "with Dr. Garth and Mr. Addison, at the Devil Tavern, 
 near Temple-bar ; and Garth treated." (Swift's Journal to Stella.) Here Dr. Johnson 
 presided at a supper celebrating the publication of Mrs. Lennox's first book, when the 
 whole night was spent in festivity. The tavern was taken down in 1788 : opposite is 
 Apollo-court ; and next door east, is the Cock Tavern, with an old carved and gilt sign- 
 bird. (See TAVEBNS.) The Horn Tavern, now Anderton's Hotel, No. 164, was famous 
 in 1604. (See COFFEE-HOUSES : Dick's, Rainbow, and Peele's, pp. 264, 267, 268.) 
 
 No. 39 was " the Mitre, in Fleet-street," the tavern so often referred to in Boswell's 
 Life of Johnson : the Mitre, in Mitre-court, was of much later date. At the Mitre, 
 in Fleet-street, in 1640, Lilly met old Will Poole, the astrologer, then living in 
 Rani-alley. The Royal Society Club dined at the Mitre from 1743 to 1750; and the 
 Society of Antiquaries met here for some time : the house had its token. This was 
 Dr. Johnson's favourite supper-house, the parties including Goldsmith, Percy, Hawkes- 
 worth, and Boswell. Chamberlain Clark, who died in 1831, aged 92, was the last 
 surviving of Johnson's Mitre friends. It was a favourite house with Lord Stowell. 
 The premises became Macklin's Poets' Gallery in 1788 ; and lastly Saunders's Auction- 
 rooms : they were taken down to enlarge the site for Hoare's new Banking-house. 
 
 In the bay-windowed house, Nos. 184 and 185, lived Drayton, the poet. At No. 
 186, was commenced, Nov. 3, 1849, Notes and Queries. West of St. Dunstan's is the 
 Law Life Assurance Office, of Jacobean street-architecture, built by Shaw in 1834 : 
 next is the passage to Clifford's Inn. Chaucer, when a student of the Inner Temple, 
 was fined 2s. by the Society for beating a Franciscan friar in Fleet-street ; so states 
 Speght, the illustrator of the poet. Cowley was born near Chancery -lane ; his father 
 was an engrosser, not a grocer, as long stated. Isaac Walton lived two doors west of 
 Chancery -lane, whither, in 1632, he removed. (See CHANCEET-IANE, p. 82.) At No. 197 
 was Rackstrow's Anatomical Museum, and collection of natural and artificial curiosi- 
 ties, natural magic, &c., exhibited from 1736 to 1798. Sell-yard and Fetter-lane were 
 once noted for fishing-tackle shops. 
 
 Shire-lane (now Lower Serle's-place), hard by Temple-bar, named from its dividing 
 the City from the Shire, was once a place of note. Here was born Sir Charles Sedley, 
 the poet, and witty contemporary of Rochester ; here lived Elias Ashmole, by turns 
 astrologer, alchemist and antiquary, who called " father" one Backhouse, an adept, in 
 Fleet-street, over against St. Dunstan's Church. 
 
 In 1658, Ashmole left the astrologers and alchemists; in 1660, he was called to the bar in Middle 
 Temple Hall ; and on Jan. 26, 1679, by a fire in his chambers in the Middle Temple, he lost most of his 
 library, a cabinet of 9000 coins, besides, seals, charters, &c., and a curious collection of engraved 
 portraits. 
 
 At the upper end of Shire-lane lived Isaac Bickerstaff, the Tatler, who led the 
 deputation of " Twaddlers" down the lane, across Fleet-street, to Dick's Coffee-house. 
 At the Trumpet (afterwards the Duke's Head) public-house, in Shire-lane, the Tatler 
 met his club ; and in the lane lived Christopher Kat, at whose house originated the 
 Kit-Kat Club. (See pp. 250, 251.) 
 
 Fleet-street was the scene of the annual grand burning of the Pope (on November 17) in the 
 reign of Charles II. ; the torchlight procession beginning at Moorfields, and ending at Fleet-street, 
 where the effigy of the Pope was burnt, opposite Middle Temple-gate. These saturnalia were kept up 
 until after the expulsion of James II. ; when the anti-popish mummery was transferred to Nov. 5. 
 (See TEMPLE and TEMPLE HAS.) 
 
 Towards the west end of Fleet-street have been erected several buildings of highly
 
 FOG OF LONDON. 353 
 
 ornamental character; as at the junction of Chancery-lane and Fleet-street, handsome 
 Italian; the Crown Insurance Offices, Venetian, of marble, granite, and coloured 
 stone; No. 21, Italian, of the Palladian school; No. 29, of Portland stone, granite, 
 marble, &c. 
 
 Among the Fleet-street booksellers of our time, William Hone must be mentioned : 
 he commenced business at No. 55, about the year 1812 ; where he published a 
 pamphlet in vindication of the ill-fated Eliza Penning, who is now believed to have been 
 guiltless of the crime for which she suifered : the mystery has been thus cleared up by 
 one of Fenning's family attesting that a nephew of Mr. Turner, in Chancery-lane, 
 when upon his death-bed, in Chelmsford, disclosed that, " many years since, irritated 
 with his uncle and aunt, with whom he resided, for not supplying him with money, he 
 availed himself of the absence for a few minutes of the servant-maid from the kitchen, 
 stepped into it and deposited a quantity of powdered arsenic on some dough he found 
 mixed in a pan. Eliza Penning, he added, was wholly ignorant of these facts." 
 
 FOG OF LONDON. 
 
 rpHIS phenomenon is caused by the millions of blazing coal-fires in the metropolis 
 J- contributing a vast quantity of fuliginous matter, which, mingling with the 
 vapour, partly arising from imperfect drainage, produces that foggy darkness which 
 Londoners not inaptly term " awful." Sometimes it is of a bottle-green colour ; but 
 if the barometer rise, it will either totally disappear or change into a white mist. At 
 other times it is of pea-soup yellow ; in the midst of which the street gas-lights appear 
 like the pin-head lamps of old. The latter is the genuine November London Fog. 
 
 " First at the dawn of lingering day, 
 It rises of an ashy grey; 
 Then deepening with a sordid stain 
 Of yellow, like a lion's maue. 
 Vapour importunate and dense, 
 It wars at once with every sense. 
 The ears escape not. All around 
 Returns a dull, unwonted sound. 
 Loath to stand still, afraid to stir, 
 The chilled and puzzled passenger, 
 Oft blundering from the pavement, fails 
 To feel his way along the rails ; 
 Or at the crossings, in the roll 
 Of every carriage dreads the pole. 
 Scarce an eclipse with pall so dun 
 Blots from the face of heaven the sun. 
 But soon a thicker, darker cloak 
 Wraps all the town, behold, in smoke, 
 Which steam-compelling trade disgorges 
 From all her furnaces and forges 
 In pitchy clouds too dense to rise, 
 Descends rejected from the skies ; 
 Till struggling day, extinguished quite, 
 
 Oh, Chemistry, attractive maid, 
 
 Descend, in pity, to our aid : 
 
 Come with thy all-pervading gases, 
 
 Thy crucibles, retorts, and glasses, 
 
 Thy fearful energies and wonders, 
 
 Thy dazzling lights and mimic thunders ; 
 
 Let Carbon in thy train be seen, 
 
 Dark Azote and fair Oxygen, 
 
 And Wollaston and Davy guide 
 
 The car that bears them at thy side, 
 
 If any power can, any how, 
 
 Abate these nuisances, 'tis thou ; 
 
 And see to aid thee in the blow, 
 
 The bill of Michael Angelo, 
 
 O join (success a thing of course is) 
 
 Thy heavenly to his mortal forces ; 
 
 Make all chimneys chew the cud 
 
 Like hungry cows, as chimneys should ! 
 
 And since 'tis only smoke we draw 
 
 Within our lungs at common law, 
 
 Into their thirsty tubes be sent 
 
 Fresh air, by act of parliament." 
 
 Henry Luttrel. 
 
 At noon gives place to candle-light. 
 
 The Fog, too, sensibly affects the organs of respiration : hence a Scotch physician has 
 asked, " If a person require half a gallon of pure air per minute, how many gallons of 
 this foul atmosphere must be, as it were, filtered by his lungs in the course of a day ?" 
 
 Sometimes the Fog is caused by a very ordinary accident, a change of wind, thus 
 accounted for : the west wind carries the smoke of the town eastward in a long train, 
 extending twenty or thirty miles, as may be seen on a clear day from an eminence five 
 or six miles from the town, say, from Harrow-on-the-Hill. In this case, suppose the 
 wind to change suddenly to the east, the great body of smoke will be brought back in 
 an accumulated mass ; and as this repasses the town, augmented by the clouds of smoke 
 from every fire therein, it causes the murky darkness. 
 
 By accurate observation of the height of the Fog, relatively with the higher edifices, 
 whose elevation is known, it has been ascertained that the Fogs of London never rise 
 more than from 200 to 240 feet above the same level. Hence the air of the more 
 elevated environs of the metropolis is celebrated for its pure and invigorating qualities, 
 being placed above the fogs of the plain, and removed from smoky and contaminated 
 atmosphere. The height of the Norwood hills, for example is 390 feet above the sea- 
 level at low water ; and thus enjoys pre-eminent salubrity. 
 
 A A
 
 354 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 What is often called Fog, which darkens the metropolis hi winter, is, in reality, the smoke of millions 
 of coal-fires, which are much increased in very cold weather. To prevent this, a Correspondent of the 
 Times recommends this simple plan -.Before you throw on coals, pull all the fire to the front of the 
 grate towards the bars, fill up the cavity at the back with the cinders or ashes, which will be found under 
 the grate, and then throw on the coals. The gas evolved in the process of roasting the coals will then 
 be absorbed by the cinders will render them, in an increased degree, combustible. The smoke will 
 thus be burnt, and a fine glowing, smokeless fire will be the result. This rule should be enforced from 
 the kitchen upwards. 
 
 FOETIFICA TIONS. 
 
 TTHE defence of the City of London by the wall built by our later Eoman colonists 
 -L has been already described. (See CITY WALLS AND GATES, p. 233.) In later 
 times, the metropolis had again to be fortified. 
 
 During the Civil Wars, in 1642, the Parliament ordered that trenches and ramparts 
 should be made near the highways leading to the City, and in different parts about 
 London and Westminster. These Fortifications consisted of a strong earthen rampart, 
 flanked with bastions, redoubts, &c., surrounding the whole City and its liberties, in- 
 cluding Soutbwark. In Tyburn-road, in 1643, there were three forts erected viz., a 
 redoubt, with two flanks, near St. Giles's Pound ; a small fort at the east end of the 
 road ; and a large fort, with four half bulwarks, across the road opposite to Wardour- 
 street. from The Perfect Diurnal of this period, we gather that many thousands of 
 men, women, and servants assisted in the works ; as did also a great company of the 
 Common Council, and other chief men of the City; and the Trained Bands, with spades, 
 shovels, and pickaxes; likewise feltmakers, cappers, shoemakers, and porters, to the 
 number of many thousands, assisted in raising the defences. 
 
 Upon the site of Mount-street was the fort of " Oliver's Mount ;" and on the ground 
 now occupied by Hamilton-place at Hyde-park-corner was a large fort with four 
 bastions. 
 
 " From ladies down to oyster-wenches, 
 Labour'd like pioneers in trenches." 
 
 Butler's Hudibras, Part ii. canto 2. 
 
 The women, and even the ladies of rank and fortune, not only encouraged the men, but worked with 
 their own hands. Lady Middlesex, Lady Foster, Lady Anne Walker, and Mrs. Dunch, have been, 
 particularly celebrated for their activity. Dr. Nash's Notes. 
 
 There are in existence drawings of London Fortifications ascribed to Hollar, and 
 Captain John Eyre of Oliver Cromwell's own regiment, dated 1643 ; but they are not, 
 by competent judges, regarded as genuine. The latter have been etched. 
 
 The Parliamentary Fortifications of London are described in Maitland's History ; 
 & Plan of the City and Suburbs, 1642 and 1643, was engraved by George Vertue, 
 1738 ; and a small Plan of the same works appeared in the Gentleman's Magazine, a 
 few years afterwards. 
 
 During the last Civil War, a Fortification was erected at the Brill Farm, near Old 
 St. Pancras Church, where, 120 years later, Somers Town was built ; a view of it is 
 engraved. Notes and Queries, No. 230. 
 
 FOUNDLING- HOSPITAL (THE), 
 
 TN Guilford-street, was established by Royal Charter, granted in 1739 to Thomas 
 -L Coram (master of a trading vessel), " for the reception, maintenance, and education 
 of exposed and deserted young children," in a hospital erected " after the example of 
 France, Holland, and other Christian countries." This shows that Coram contemplated 
 the indiscriminate admission of all foundlings, as is the case in the above countries ; and 
 such was the practice up to the commencement of the present century. The Governors 
 first opened a house in Hatton-garden, on March 25, 1740-1 ; and any person bringing 
 a child, rang the bell at the inner door, and waited to hear if the infant was returned 
 from disease or at once received, no question whatever being asked as to whom the 
 child belonged, or whence it was brought ; and when the full number of children had 
 been taken in, a notice of " The House is full" was affixed over the door : often there 
 were 100 children offered, when only 20 could be admitted ; riots ensued, and thence- 
 forth the women balloted for admission by drawing balls out of a bag. 
 
 The present Hospital was built by Jacobson ; and the children, 600 in number, were 
 removed there in 1745, when the expenses of the establishment were more than five
 
 FOUNDLING HOSPITAL (THE). 
 
 times the amount of the income. The Governors afterwards applied to Parliament, who 
 voted them 10,OOOZ., and sanctioned the general admission of children, the establish- 
 ment of country hospitals, &c.* A basket was hung at the gate of the hospital in 
 London, in which the children were deposited, after ringing a bell to give notice to the 
 officers in attendance.-}- On June 2nd, 1756, the first day, 117 children were thus 
 received. In 1757 printed bills were posted in the streets apprising the public of their 
 privilege. The consequences were lamentable : prostitution was greatly increased by 
 this easy means of disposing of illegitimate offspring; and from the want of means of 
 rearing so many children, the greater number died : of 14,934 children received in three 
 years and ten months, 10,389 perished. At length, in 1760, this indiscriminate ad- 
 mission was discontinued by Act of Parliament, the legislature undertaking to support 
 all the children who had been already received at its suggestion. Still, so late as 
 1795 the practice of admitting children without inquiry, on payment of 100Z., had not 
 become extinct ; but it was abolished in 1801. 
 
 Hogarth, one of the earliest " Governors and Guardians," greatly assisted his friend 
 Captain Coram, whose full-length portrait he painted and presented to the Hospital, 
 with other pictures. These were shown to the public, and became very attractive; 
 and out of this success grew the first Exhibition of the Royal Academy, in the Adelphi, 
 in the year 1760. The painters often met at the Hospital ; the exhibition of their 
 pictures drew daily crowds of spectators, in their splendid equipages ; and a visit to 
 the Foundling became the most fashionable morning lounge of the reign of George II. 
 The grounds in front of the Hospital were a favourite promenade ; and brocaded 
 silks, gold-headed canes, and laced three-cornered (Egham, Staines, and Windsor) hats 
 formed a gay bevy in Lamb's-Conduit-fields. 
 
 The pictures represent the state of British art previously to the patronage of West 
 by George III. In the collection is Hogarth's March to Finchley, and Moses brought 
 to Pharaoh's Daughter ; Dr. Mead, by Allan Eamsay ; Handel, by Kneller ; Lord 
 Dartmouth, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; Views of the Foundling and St. George's Hos- 
 pitals, by Richard Wilson ; the Charter-House (Sutton's Hospital), by Gainsborough ; 
 Chelsea and Bethlem Hospitals, by Haytley ; Christ's Hospital, St. Thomas's and 
 Greenwich Hospitals, by Wale ; a bas-relief by Rysbrack ; a bust of Handel, by 
 Roubiliac ; and a presumed original portrait of Shakspeare. 
 
 The Chapel has an altar-piece (Christ presenting a little Child), painted by West. 
 At the suggestion of Handel, the musical service has been a source of great profit to 
 the Hospital funds. (See CHAPELS, p. 210.) Dr. Burney attempted to found an 
 " Academy of Music" on this basis, just as an Academy of Arts had been raised ; but 
 the project failed. Several blind children, who had been received into the Hospital 
 during the indiscriminate admission, were trained as a choir. Mr. Grenville, the 
 organist; Mr. Printer, Miss Thetford, and Jenny Freer, singers, were all blind 
 foundlings. 
 
 Coram is buried in the vaults. Here also rest several benefactors, including Lord 
 Chief-Justice Tenterden, whose bust is at the eastern entrance to the chapel : some 
 verses written by his Lordship are sung at the Festival of the Governors. Upon the 
 lodges are two characteristic bas-relief medallions, nicely executed. 
 
 From 1760, the Institution ceased to be a hospital for foundlings 
 
 " A race unknown, 
 
 At doors expos'd, whom matrons call their own." Dryden. 
 
 Unfortunately, the name has been retained : hence great misapprehension in the public mind as to the 
 present objects and purposes of the Charity. The present practice of admitting children requires that 
 they be illegitimate ; that the mother have borne a good character previous to her misfortune ; and 
 that she be poor and have no relations able or willing to maintain her child. There are other con- 
 ditions enforced by the Governors ; their benevolent object being, " to hide the shame of the mother, 
 as well as to preserve the life of the child," and dismiss her from the Hospital with the charge to 
 
 * Branch establishments were opened in the country ; and at one of them (Ackworth, in Yorkshire) 
 was made cloth, in suits of which several of the artist-patrons appeared at the Festival of 1761. 
 Another branch Hospital was atAylesbury : of this John Wilkes (M.P. for that borough) was appointed 
 Treasurer ; but when he left the kingdom hi 1764, his accounts were deficient-. 
 
 t An aged banker in the north of England, received into the Hospital, being desirous of ascertain- 
 ing his origin, all the information afforded by the books of the establishment was, that he was put into 
 the basket at the gate naked. 
 
 A A 2
 
 356 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 "sin no more." There are several eloquent defences of the objects of the Hospital. Sterne 
 preached a sermon for the Charity in 1761 ; and the Kev. Sydney Smith was one of the appointed 
 preachers. 
 
 There are at present 500 children supported by the Charity, from extreme infancy to the age of 
 fifteen ; the Governors have not the privilege of presenting children, after the manner of other esta- 
 blishments, the claim for admission depending upon the proven misery of the case. The general health 
 of the children within the walls of the Hospital is remarkably good ; indeed, the building occupies one 
 of the healthiest sites in London. At an apprenticeable age, the girls are put out to domestic service, 
 and the boys to trades. 
 
 The qualification of a Governor is a donation of 501. The revenue of the Hospital 
 is principally derived from the improved value of the Lamb's-Conduit estate (56 acres), 
 which the Governors purchased as a site for the Hospital, in 1741, for the sum of 
 5500., collected by benefactions and legacies ; when the Charity bought the whole 
 estate, not because they required it, but because the Earl of Salisbury, its owner, would 
 not sell any fractional part of it. As London increased, it approached this property ; 
 and the ground is now mostly covered with squares and streets of houses, the ground- 
 rents producing an annual income equal to the purchase-money ! The Governors have 
 likewise established a Benevolent Fund, for the relief of aged and destitute persons who 
 were inmates of the Hospital when infants. (See Memoranda of the Foundling Hos- 
 pital, by John Brownlow, Secretary, third edition, 1865.) A stone portrait -statue of 
 Coram, Calder Marshall, sculptor, is placed upon the central pier of the entrance-gates. 
 
 FOUNTAINS. 
 
 T ONDON had, until lately, in comparison with Continental cities, but few decorative 
 -L^ Fountains, of " the nature that sprinkleth or spouteth water." Early in the 
 last century, however, the Fountains were more numerous. Hatton (1708) mentions 
 in Privy Garden, at Somerset House, Middle Temple, Lincoln's Inn, and King's-square, 
 " the most publick ones." The court-yards and gardens of mansions had also their 
 fountains : Montague House was celebrated for them. The courts of the Companies' 
 Halls and City-merchants' houses boasted of their fountains, but few of which remain. 
 The private garden of Drapers' Hall had a basin, with a fountain and statue. 
 
 Old Somerset House had its geometrical water-garden and fountain. 
 
 Whitehall Lad its fountains ; and Queen Elizabeth had a cascade made to play in 
 her gardens, which, when touched by a distant spring, sprinkled all who approached it. 
 
 The King's (Soho) Square fountain had in the middle of the basin a stone statue of 
 Charles II. in armour, on a pedestal enriched with crowns and foliage ; on the four 
 sides of the base were as many figures, with inscriptions, of the Thames, Severn, Tyne, 
 and Humber rivers, spouting water. The statue of Charles remains, but the basin has 
 been filled up, and is now a flower-garden. 
 
 St. James's-square had in its centre, in 1720, a basin with a jet of water 15 feet 
 high ; the basin was filled from York-buildings, was 6 or 7 feet deep, and 150 feet in 
 diameter, and upon it was kept a pleasure-boat : the site is now occupied by an eques- 
 trian statue of William III. 
 
 The fountain was a popular ornament of our old tea-gardens : Bagnigge Wells had 
 a curious specimen half fountain, half grotto ; and the fountain lingered among the 
 cool delights of Vauxhall Gardens to the last. 
 
 Kensington Gardens had a lofty sculptured fountain in the basin opposite the palace ; 
 but here, and in the Parks, the jets-d'eau were, until lately, tasteless and unornamental. 
 
 In the middle of New-square, Lincoln's Inn, was a fluted Corinthian, column, and a 
 clock with three dials near its vertex ; and at each angle of the pedestal was a Cupid 
 blowing water through a short twisted shell. In the Benchers' Garden, Lincoln's Inn, 
 in the centre of a basin, was the figure of a mermaid rising out of reeds, with a lofty 
 jet of water. 
 
 The fountain in Fountain-court, Middle Temple, rises from a marble-bordered basin, 
 and in Hatton's time was kept " in so good order as always to force its stream to a 
 vast and almost incredible altitude. It is fenced with timber palisades, constituting a 
 quadrangle, wherein grow several lofty trees, and without are walks extending on every 
 side of the quadrangle, all paved with Purbeck, very pleasant and delightful." The 
 timber palisades have given way to iron railing ; the jet was half-inch, and threw the
 
 FOUNTAINS. ' 357 
 
 water 10 feet high, and the effect of its sound and sparkle through the trees was very 
 refreshing. Miss Landon has left a poem of pensive beauty, commencing thus : 
 
 " The fountain's low singing is heard on the wind, 
 Like a melody bringing sweet fancies to mind; 
 Some to grieve, some to gladden : around them they cast 
 The hopes of the morrow, the dreams of the past. 
 Away in the distance is heard the vast sound, 
 From the streets of the city that compass it round, 
 Like the echo of fountains or ocean's deep call : 
 Yet that fountain's low singing is heard over all." 
 
 A more decorated design has been substituted for the formal jet. 
 
 In the ornamental garden adjoining the Bank (of England) Parlour is a stone basin, 
 with a jet of water 20 feet high ; already described at p. 30. 
 
 The pair of fountains and basins in Trafalgar square are the largest works of the 
 kind in the metropolis. They were designed by Sir C. Barry, R.A., and executed in 
 Peterhead granite by M'Donald and Leslie, Aberdeen. Around each base are four 
 dolphins' heads and fins, supporting a large flat vase and a pedestal, with a smaller 
 vase, in the centre of which is the jet whence the water is thrown up ; while a flat 
 stream issues from each of the dolphins' mouths. The water is supplied from two 
 Artesian wells, one in Orange-street, 300 feet deep, and the other in front of the 
 National Gallery, 395 feet, connected at 170 feet depth by a tunnel to contain 70,000 
 gallons of water j the wells and tunnel at rest holding about 122,000 gallons. The 
 wells are worked, the jets of the fountains thrown, and the water otherwise supplied, 
 by a large Cornish pumping steam-engine, and a small inverted direct-action engine : 
 outlay 9000/. ; annual rent 500?. ; engineers, Easton and Amos, Southwark. The con- 
 tract for " spouting water" is thirteen hours per day in summer, and in winter seven 
 hours ; the height of the jets varies with the weather, from 25 to 40 feet from the 
 ground ; supply, 500 gallons per minute ; to the Treasury, Admiralty, Houses of Par- 
 liament, and other public offices, 100 gallons per minute. 
 
 Such were the original works. In 1862 was added to each of the semicircular bays 
 of the basins a group of jets, consisting of a centre and 16 surrounding it. Thus there 
 are 68 jets, throwing 300 gallons per minute, rising from the surface of the basins. 
 Within each is an octagon, from each angle of which a jet throws the water 20 feet 
 high into the upper basin of the central fountain. These 8 jets throw 200 gallons per 
 minute, and their curve is about 30 feet in length. Here are again two inferior 
 squares surrounding the central group, and from each of the angles a jet is thrown out- 
 wards, crossing those from the octagon, rising 20 feet, and curving about 17 feet : these 
 throw together 200 gallons per minute. There are also 8 feather jets, which throw up 
 200 gallons per minute, and form a display resembling the Prince of Wales's Feathers. 
 The whole may be played at once, in not less than 25 different continuations or 
 changes. It has been the fashion to abuse the designs of these fountains, without 
 making due allowance for the cause the insufficiency of the sum voted for their 
 erection, and desirable decorative character. 
 
 Hitherto, fountains had, in our time, been mostly ornamental, but they have of late 
 been adapted for Drinking purposes, to promote temperance and sanitary benefits. 
 
 The first Drinking-fountain set up in the metropolis was that at St. Sepulchre's, the 
 parish in which, nearly three centuries ago, Lamb, citizen and clothworker, and some- 
 time gentleman of the chamber to Henry VIII., " founded a faire conduit and a 
 standard, with a cocke, at Holborn-bridge, to convey thence the waste." The con- 
 duit itself was in the fields now Lamb's-Conduit-street. (See CONDUITS, p. 288.) 
 
 The Metropolitan Free Drinking-Fountains Association has set up in various quarters, 
 by means of a public subscription, fountains in localities where they are most required. 
 As many as 8000 persons have been known to drink at a single fountain in one day ; and 
 more than 30,000 have been estimated to drink daily in the summer at 140 fountains. 
 Many of the contributions to this good work of the Association exhibit great liberality on 
 the part of the donors, as well as an occasional tinge of eccentricity. Cattle- troughs 
 and dog-troughs have been added to the fountains. Benevolent individuals have con- 
 tributed to their own localities. Thus, we read of 601. from a lady in Brompton, and 
 1001. from a gentleman in Pimlico, for the two fountains just opened by the Society
 
 358 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 outside the Kensington Museum, and in the high road leading to Battersea Park. A 
 gentleman in Fifeshire offered to pay the cost of a fountain near the Kensington 
 Potteries, where, by the way, water was always wanted ; and a lady at St. John's- 
 wood sent to the Society a donation for the new cattle-trough just fixed in Finsbury- 
 square. One of the Reports of the Society states that a lady, who requested that 
 her name should be kept secret, sent 1000Z. to the treasurer; and that an Indian Prince 
 furnished a similar sum to he expended upon a fountain in Hyde Park. Mrs. Rosetta 
 Waddell, amongst other bequests, left 500Z. for the erection of a fountain in Warwick- 
 square, Newgate-street. Mr. Gurney, the founder of the Association, contributed 
 between 300?. and 400Z. yearly towards the objects which it had in view. The Associa- 
 tion requires 1000Z. a-year to keep one hundred fountains in repair. 
 
 Some of these drinking-fountains, erected at the cost of private individuals, are 
 admirable works of art, as well as acts of public spirit. Sir Morton Peto has erected 
 on Islington-green a statue of Sir Hugh Myddelton, with two fountains, and the New 
 Eiver Company supply the water gratis ; and the Company, in 1859, set up a fountain 
 against their own wall. In the above year, the Association announced seventy sites, 
 whereon they had erected fountains, or were under engagement to erect. 
 
 The Government have erected, very appropriately, drinking-fountains in the Parks. 
 The largest and most important is placed in the geometrical garden in Hyde Park, 
 learly opposite Grosvenor-gate. This is a simple and massive fountain, with a group 
 of a boy and dolphin, in Carrara marble, 6 feet high, sculptured by Alexander Munro. 
 It is placed on a block of red granite chiselled to represent a rock. The basin, of 
 polished Sicilian marble, is nine feet in diameter, and is believed to be the largest basin 
 of a single block of marble in England. This rests on a square plinth of Dove marble, 
 leading up to which are three circular steps in grey granite, the lowest step being 
 eighteen feet in diameter. The whole work is upwards of twelve feet in height. The 
 group represents a sturdy boy wrestling with a dolphin ; the water issuing in jets 
 from the nostrils of the dolphin. 
 
 On the south side of St. James's Park, near Storey's-gate, backed by trees, is 
 a group, sculptured by R. Jackson, of a boy seated, with a pitcher at his side, 
 and holding a scallop-shell as if to dip into the pitcher, and offer its contents to one 
 towards whom his head is slightly turned. On the front of the granite pedestal 
 is a relief of bulrushes and other water-plants, and from the mouth of a dolphin the 
 water trickles into a conch-shell. 
 
 In the Regent's Park, a drinking-fountain has been erected from the designs of 
 R. Westmacott, R.A. : it consists of a polished red granite column, on which is a female 
 figure in bronze ; the water flows from the bills of two bronze swans, at the base of the 
 column, into a large tazza of black enamelled slate. 
 
 The Ornamental Waterworks, in Kensington Gardens, contain two large fountains, 
 with some good sculpture, by John Thomas. 
 
 In Victoria Park, at the Hackney entrance, is a drinking-fountain, of unusual 
 dimensions and costliness, a present from Miss Burdett Coutts. It is a Gothic oc- 
 tagonal structure, crowned by a cupola, nearly 60 feet high j the shafts and bases are 
 of polished granite. Within are marble figures in niches, which pour water from 
 vases into basins beneath ; vases for flowers, and coloured marbles, complete the decora- 
 tion : cost, above 5000Z. ; designer, H. A. Darbishire. 
 
 Another large and important design is the Buxton Memorial Drinking Fountain, 
 at the corner of Great George-street and St. Margaret's Churchyard, Westminster. 
 The base is octagonal, having open arches on the eight sides, supported on clustered 
 shafts of polished Devonshire marble around a large central shaft, with four massive 
 granite basins. Surmounting the pinnacles at the angles of the octagon are eight 
 figures of bronze, representing different rulers of England : the Britons represented 
 by Caractacus, the Romans by Constantino, the Danes by Canute, the Saxons by 
 Alfred, the Normans by William the Conqueror, and so on, ending with Queen 
 Victoria. The following is the inscription : 
 
 " This fountain is intended as a memorial of those Members of Parliament who, with Mr. Wilber- 
 rarce, advocated the Abolition of the British Slave Trade, achieved in 1807; and of those Members of 
 Parliament who, with Sir T. Fowell Buxton, advocated the Emancipation of the Slaves throughout the
 
 FREEMASONS' LODGES. 359 
 
 British dominions, achieved in 1834. It was designed and built, by Charles Buxton, M.P., in 1865, the 
 year of the final extinction of the Slave Trade and of the Abolition of Slavery in the United States." 
 
 The upper portion is covered with plaques of iron, with raised patterns, giving 
 shadow, and enamelled coloured surfaces. Superintendent architect, S. Teulon ; stone- 
 work and sculpture, hy Earp ; cost, upwards of 12001., exclusive of the water supply, 
 undertaken by the Drinking-Fountains Association. 
 
 Another memorial monumental fountain has been erected in Guildhall-yard, by the 
 vtstry of the united parishes of St. Lawrence Jewry, and St. Mary Magdalene, Milk- 
 street, to the memory of the benefactors of these parishes. This memorial, designed in 
 the Pointed style of architecture which prevailed in Italy during the fourteenth cen- 
 tury, is 9 ft. square at the base, and 32 ft. in height. The materials are Portland 
 stone, and Bath stone, with polished granite shafts. On the east and west sides are 
 statues of the patron saints of the two parishes ; and on the other two sides are marble 
 slabs, on which are engraved the names of the benefactors. On the east side, facing 
 Guildhall-yard, is a bronze bas-relief of Moses striking the Rock, an admirable pro- 
 daction, which forms the drinking-fountain ; cost has been 6651. ; designed by John 
 Robinson, architect ; statues and bas-relief are by Joseph Durham, R.A., sculptor. 
 
 Fountains are useful ornaments of markets. At Billingsgate is a cast-iron fountain, 
 with a basin about 15 feet in diameter, and a stem of rushes whence the water rises : 
 and around the basin-lip lie twelve dolphins, which discharge water for the use of the 
 market-people. 
 
 FREEMASONS' LODGES. 
 
 /"^UR glance at Freemasonry in the metropolis dates from two centuries back (1666), 
 Vx when Sir Christopher Wren was nominated Deputy-Grand-Master under Earl 
 Rivers, and distinguished himself above all his predecessors in legislating for the body 
 at large, and in promoting the interests of the Lodges under his immediate care. He 
 was Master of the St. Paul's Lodge, which, during the rebuilding of the Cathedral 
 after the Great Fire, assembled at the Goose and Gridiron, in St. Paul's Churchyard, 
 and is now the Lodge of Antiquity, acting by immemorial prescription, and regularly 
 presided at its meetings for upwards of eighteen years. During his presidency, he pre- 
 sented the Lodge with three mahogany candlesticks, beautifully carved, and the trowel 
 and mallet which he used in laying the first stone of the Cathedral, June 21, 1675. 
 
 During the building of the City, Lodges were held by the fraternity in different 
 places, and several new ones constituted, which were attended by the leading architects 
 and best builders of the day, and amateur brethren of the mystic craft. In 1674 Earl 
 Rivers resigned his grand-mastership, and George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, was 
 elected to the dignified office. He left the care of the Grand Lodge and the brother- 
 hood to the Deputy-Grand-Master Wren and his Wardens. During the short reign 
 of James II., who tolerated no secret societies but the Jesuits, the Lodges were but 
 thinly attended ; but in 1685 Sir Christopher Wren was elected Grand-Master of the 
 Order, and nominated Gabriel Gibber, the sculptor, and Edward Strong, the master 
 mason of St. Paul's and other of the City churches, as Grand- Wardens, 
 
 Many of the oldest Lodges are in the neighbourhood of St. Paul's ; but the head- 
 quarters of Freemasonry is the Grand Hall in the rear of Freemasons' Tavern, 62, 
 Queen-street, Lincoln's-inn-fields : it was commenced May 1, 1775, from the designs 
 of Thomas Sandby, R.A., Professor of Architecture in the Royal Academy : 5000/. was 
 raised by a Tontine towards the cost ; and the Hall was opened and dedicated in solemn 
 form, May 23, 1776 ; Lord Petre, Grand-Master. " It is the first house built in this 
 country with the appropriate symbols of Masonry, and with the suitable apartments 
 for the holding of Lodges, the initiating, passing, raising, and exalting of brethren." 
 (Elmes.) Here are held the Grand and other Lodges, which hitherto assembled in the 
 Halls of the City Companies. 
 
 Freemasons' Hall, as originally decorated, is shown in a print of the annual proces- 
 sion of Freemasons' Orphans, by T. Stothard, R.A. It is a finely-proportioned room, 
 92 feet by 43 feet, and 60 feet high ; and will hold 1500 persons : it was re-decorated 
 in 1846 : the ceiling and coving are richly decorated ; above the principal entrance is
 
 360 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 a large gallery, with an organ ; and at the opposite end is a coved recess, flanked by a 
 pair of fluted Ionic columns, and Egyptian doorways ; the sides are decorated with 
 fluted Ionic pilasters ; and throughout the room in the frieze are masonic emblems, 
 gilt upon a transparent blue ground. In the intercolumniations are full-length royal 
 and other Masonic portraits, including that of the Duke of Sussex, as Grand-Master, by 
 Sir W. Beechey, R. A. In the end recess is a marble statue of the Duke of Sussex, exe- 
 cuted for the Grand Lodge, by E. H. Baily, R.A. The statue is seven feet six inches 
 high, and the pedestal six feet ; the Duke wears the robes of a Knight of the Garter, and 
 the Guelphic insignia j at his side is a small altar, sculptured with Masonic emblems. 
 
 Freemasons' Hall was, however, not reserved for the exclusive use of the Masons. In 
 1863, the erection of a great Masonic building was decided on; architect, F. P. 
 Cockerell, son of the late Professor Cockerell, R.A. 
 
 The front, which is 89 ft. in length, is built entirely of Portland stone. The sculp- 
 ture, including the four figures representing Wisdom, Fidelity, Charity, and Unity, 
 are executed by W. G. Nicholl. The section, comprising the greater part of the Masonic 
 building, was completed in May, 1866. The old hall is re-embellished in a corresponding 
 style. 
 
 St. Paul's, 604, and St. Peter's, Westminster, 605, were built by Freemasons. Gundulph, Bishop of 
 Eochester, who built Rochester Castle, and, it is said, the White Tower (of London), governed the Free- 
 masons. Peter of Coleehurch, architectof old London Bridge, was Grand-Master. Henry VII., in a lodge of 
 Master Masons, founded his Chapel at Westminster Abbey. Hampton Court Palace was built by Free- 
 masons, as appears from the accounts of the expenses of the fabric extant among the public records of 
 London. Sir Thomas Gresham, who planned the Royal Exchange, was Grand-Master: as was also 
 Inigo Jones, who built the Banqueting-House, Whitehall ; Ashburnham House, Westminster, &c. Sir 
 Christopher Wren, Grand-Master, founded St. Paul's with his Lodge of Masons, and the trowel and 
 the mallet used are preserved. Covent Garden Theatre was founded, 1808, by the Prince of Wales, 
 Grand-Master ; and the Grand Lodge. Sir Francis Palgrave, however, maintains that " the connexion 
 between the operative masons and a convivial society of good fellows who, in the reign of Queen Anne, 
 met at the ' Goose and Gridiron, in St. Paul his Church-yard 'appears to have been finally dissolved 
 about the beginning of the eighteenth century. From an inventory of the contents of the chest of the 
 Worshipful Company of Masons and Citizens of London, it appears not long since to have contained a 
 book wrote on parchment, or bound or stitched in parchment, containing 113 annals of the antiquity, 
 rise, and progress of the art and mystery of masonry. But this document is not now to be found. Sir 
 F. Palgrave, Edinburgh Seview, April, 1839. 
 
 There is in existence, and known to persons who take an interest in the History of Free- 
 masonry, a copperplate List of Freemasons' Lodges in London in the reign of Queen Anne, with a 
 representation of the Signs, and some Masonic Ceremony, in which are eleven figures of well-dressed 
 men, in the costume of the above period. There were then 129 Lodges, of which 86 were in London, 
 36 in English cities, and 7 abroad. 
 
 According to the books of the Grand Lodge of England, there are 63 Masonic Lodges in the City, 
 distributed as follows : Albion Tavern, Aldersgate-street, 7 ; London Tavern, Bishopsgate, 9 ; Radley's 
 Hotel, Bridge-street, 9; Anderton's Hotel, Fleet-street, 8: Ship and Turtle, Leadenhall-street, 8 ; 
 London Coffee House, Ludgate-hill, 5; Masons' Hall, Basinghall-street, 3; Masons' Rooms, Little 
 Bell-alley, Moorgate-street, 1 ; Cheshire Cheese, Crutched-friars, 1 ; Falcon Tavern, Fetter-lane, 1 ; and 
 Dick's Tavern, Fleet-street, 1. Formerly the most ancient lodge in the City, and which dates from 
 time immemorial, was the "Lodge of Antiquity" (No. 2), but having removed from the Goose and 
 Gridiron, St. Paul's Churchyard, to the Freemasons' Hall, Great Queen-street, the Royal Athelstan 
 (No. 19), became the most ancient City Lodge, while the most modern are the City of London (901,) 
 and Engineers (902). In the City there are also fourteen Lodges of Instruction. There are 333 
 Chapters of Royal Arch Masons, 12 of which are in the City. 
 
 " Three explanations, widely different, have been given of the origin and progress of Freemasonry. 
 Some see in Freemasonry a secret system deriving its teaching from Egyptian mysteries, preserved 
 through the night of history. Others see in it a secret body, exclusive in its formation, and passing 
 through the world irrespective of the politics and religion of all countries, but advocating brotherly 
 love and inculcating moral duties. There are others who, having regard to the principle of cause and 
 effect, see in it a speculative brotherhood, the legitimate and lineal descendants of the operative guilds 
 which flourished in the Middle and early ages. Whichever explanation or theory may be true, one thing 
 is indubitable namely, that the origin and duration of Freemasonry together furnish a most wonder- 
 ful fact in the history of mankind. It is universal in its scope and expansive and tolerant in its 
 tendency ; it rejects all partisan theories and condemns all sectarian animosities ; it forms a nucleus to 
 all the nations of the world, and aims at linking all mankind in enduring friendship by inculcating 
 moral responsibility and social duty, loyalty, peace, and good citizenship, and the relief of human sor- 
 row and affliction." Rev. A. F. Woodford, Grand Chaplain. 
 
 FROSTS, AND FROST-FAIRS ON TEH THAMES. 
 
 1281-2. " From this Christmas till the Purification of Our Lady, there was such a frost and snow, as 
 no man living could remember the like : wherethrough, five arches of London Bridge, and all Rochester 
 Bridge, were borne downe and carried away by the streame; and the like happened to many bridges in 
 England. And, not long after, men passed over the Thames, between Westminster and Lambeth, dry- 
 shod." Stoic, edited by Howes, 1631. 
 
 1410. " Thys yere was the grete frost and ise and the most sharpest winter that
 
 FE08TS, AND FROST-FAIRS ON THE THAMES. 361 
 
 ever man sawe, and it duryd fourteen wekes, so that men myght in dyvers places both 
 goo and ryde over the Temse." Chronicle of the Grey Friars of London. 
 
 1434-5. The Thames frozen from below London Bridge to Gravesend, from Dec. 25 
 to Feb. 10, when " the merchandise which came to the Thames mouth was carried to 
 London by land." Stow. 
 
 1506. " Such a sore snowe and a frost that men myght goo with carttes over the 
 Temse and horses, and it lastyd tylle Candlemas." Chronicle of the Grey Friars of 
 London. 
 
 1515. The Thames frozen, when carriages passed over the ice from Lambeth to 
 Westminster. 
 
 1564, Dec. 21. Stow and Holinshed state that on New-year's eve 
 
 "People went over and alongst the Thames on the ise from London Bridge to Westminster. Some 
 plaied at the foot ball as boldlie there, as if it had beene on the drie land ; diverse of the Court being 
 then at Westminster, shot dailie at prickes set upon the Thames ; and the people, both men and women, 
 went on the Thames in greater numbers than in anie street of the City of London. On the third daie 
 of January at night it began to thaw, and on the fifth there was no ise to be seene between London 
 Bridge and Lambeth, which sudden thaw caused great floods and high waters, that bare downe bridges 
 and houses and drowned manic people in England." 
 
 1608. Great frost described in Howes's continuation of Stow : 
 
 " The 8th of December began a hard frost, and continued until the 15th of the same, and then 
 thawed ; and the 22d of December it began againe to freeze violently, so as divers persons went halfe- 
 way over the Thames upon the ice ; and the 30th of December, at every ebbe, many people went quite 
 over the Thames in divers places, and so continued from that day until the 3d of January." From Jan. 
 10th to 15th, the ice became firm, and men, women, and children went boldly upon it ; some shot at 
 prickes, others bowled and danced, and many " set up booths and standing upon the ice as fruitsellers, 
 victuallers, that sold beere and wine, shoemakers, and a barber's tent :" the ice lasting until Feb. 2. 
 There is a very rare Tract, describing this frost, mentioned by Gough, in his British Topography, vol i. 
 p. 731, which has a woodcut representation of it, with London Bridge in the distance; it is entitled 
 " Cold Doings in London, except it be at the Lottery," &c., 4to, 1608. 
 
 1609. Great frost commenced in October, and lasted four months. The Thames 
 frozen, and heavy carriages driven over it. 
 
 1683-4. From the beginning of December until the 5th of February, frost "con- 
 gealed the river Thames to that degree, that another city, as it were, was erected 
 thereon ; where, by the great number of streets and shops, with their rich furniture, 
 it represented a great fair, with a variety of carriages, and diversions of all sorts ; and 
 near Whitehall, a whole ox was roasted on the ice." (Maitland.) Evelyn, who was 
 an eye-witness of the scene, thus describes it, Jan. 24, 1684 : 
 
 " The frost continuing more and more severe, the Thames before London was still planted with 
 boothes in formal streetes, all sorts of trades and shops furnished, and all full of commodities, even to a 
 printing presse, where the people and ladies tooke a fancy to have their names printed on the Thames ; 
 this humour tooke so universally, that 'twas estimated the printer gained 51. a day for printing a line 
 onely, at sixpence a name, besides what he got by ballads, &c. Coaches plied from Westminster to the 
 Temple, and from several other staires, to and fro, as in the streetes ; sheds, sliding with skeetes, and 
 bull-baiting, horse and coach races, puppet-plays and interludes, cookes, tipung, and other lewd places ; 
 so that it seemed to be a bacchanalian triumph, or carnival on the water." 
 
 King Charles II. visited these diversions, and even had his name printed on the ice, 
 with those of several other personages of the royal family. Mr. Upcott possessed a speci- 
 men a quarter of a sheet of coarse Dutch paper; within a type border, were the 
 names of 
 
 CHABLES, KING. 
 JAMES, DUKK. 
 KAIHERINE, QUEEW. 
 MAKY, DUTCHESS. 
 ANNE, I'HIKCESS. 
 GEORGE, PBINCB. 
 HANS IN KELDKB. 
 
 London : Printed by G. Croom, on the ICE, on 
 the River of Thames, January 31, 1684. 
 
 Feb. 6, the day after the break-up of this great frost, Charles II. died. 
 
 In some curious verses, entitled " Thamasis's Advice to the Painter, from her frigid 
 zone," &c., " printed by G. Croom, on the river of Thames," occurs :
 
 362 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 " To the Print-house go, 
 
 Where Men the Art of Printing soon do know ; 
 Where; for a Teaxter, you may have your Sam? 
 Printed, hereafter for to show the same : 
 And sure, in former Ages, ne'er was found 
 A Press to print, where men so oft were dround !" 
 
 The principal scene of this " Blanket-Fair" was opposite the Temple-stairs, as we see 
 in a pencil and Indian-ink eketch, supposed by Thomas Wyote, dated "Munday, 
 February the 4th, 1683-4 :" in front are various groups of figures, and a line of tents ; 
 " Temple-street" stretches across the Thames. This drawing, with some prints, &c., 
 illustrative of this frost, is in the Crowle Pennant. 
 
 1688-9. Great frost, Dec. 20 to Feb. 6 : pools frozen eighteen inches thick, and the 
 Thames' ice covered with streets of shops, bull-baiting, shows, and tricks ; hackney- 
 coaches plied in the ice-roads, and a coach and six horses was driven from Whitehall 
 almost to London-bridge ; yet in two days all the ice disappeared. 
 
 1709. The Thames again frozen over, and some persons crossed it on the ice : in the 
 Crowle Pennant is a coarse bill, within a woodcut border of rural subjects, containing, 
 'Mr. John Heaton, printed on the Thames at Westminster, Jan. the 7th, 1709." 
 
 1715. Severe frost, from the end of November until Feb. 9 following, when the 
 sports of 1683 were all renewed : in the Crowle Pennant is a copperplate view, with a 
 line of tents from Temple-stairs, and another marked " Thames-street ;" " Printed on 
 the Thames, 1715-16 ;" and above it, " Frost Fair on the River Thames." 
 
 1739-40. Dec. 25, another severe frost : the Thames floated with rocks and shoals 
 of ice; and when they fixed, represented a snowy field, everywhere rising in masses 
 and hills of ice and snow. Several artists made sketches ; tents and printing-presses 
 were set up, and a complete Frost Fair was again held upon the river, over which 
 multitudes walked, though some fell victims to their rashness. It was in this fair that 
 Doll, the noted pippin-woman, lost her life : 
 
 " Doll every day had walk'd these treacherous roads; 
 Her neck grew warp'd beneath autumnal loads 
 Of various fruit ; she now a basket bore ; 
 That head, alas ! shall basket bear no more. 
 Each booth she frequent past, in quest of gain. 
 And boys with pleasure heard her thrilling strain. 
 Ah, Doll ! all mortals must resign their breath, 
 And industry itself submit to death ! 
 The cracking crystal yields ; she sinks, she dies, 
 Her head, chopt off from her lost shoulders, flies ; 
 Pippins, she cried, but death her voice confounds, 
 And pip, pip, pip, along the ice resounds." Gay's Trivia, b. ii. 
 
 Another remarkable character, " Tiddy Doll," died in the same place and manner. 
 (J. T. Smith.) In the Crowle Pennant are several prints of this Frost and Ice Fair. 
 Some vintners in the Strand bought a large ox in Smithfield, to be roasted whole on 
 the ice ; and one Hodgeson, a butcher in St. James's Market, claimed the privilege of 
 felling or knocking down the beast as a right inherent in his family, his father having 
 knocked down the ox roasted on the river in the Great Frost, 1684; as himself did 
 that roasted in 1715, near Hungerford Stairs : Hodgeson to wear a laced cambric 
 apron, a silver-handled steel, and a hat and feathers. The breaking-up of this frost 
 was an odd scene ; the booths, shops, and huts being carried away by the swell of the 
 waters and the ice separating. 
 
 1768. A violent frost, Jan. 1-21, when the piles of London Bridge sterlings were 
 much damaged by the ice ; on Jan. 5, a French vessel was wrecked upon a sterling, 
 and two others were driven through the centre arch, losing their main-masts, and 
 carrying away the lamps from the parapet. 
 
 1789, Jan. 8. The Thames frozen over, several purl-booths erected, and many 
 thousands of persons crossed upon the ice from Tower-wharf to the opposite shore. The 
 frost had then lasted six weeks. No sooner had the Thames acquired a sufficient con- 
 sistency, than booths, turnabouts, &c., were erected ; the puppet-shows, wild-beasts, &c., 
 were transported from every adjacent village ; and the watermen broke in the ice close 
 to the shore, and erected bridges, with toll-bars, to make every passenger pay a half- 
 penny for getting to the ice. A large pig was roasted on one of the roads, and a young
 
 FULWOOD'S RENTS. 363 
 
 bear hunted on the ice near Rotherhithe ; and the printing-press was erected, as usual, 
 to commemorate the strange scene. Vast quantities of boiling water were every morn- 
 ing poured upon the bridge water-works, to set the wheels in motion, and twenty-five 
 horses were used daily to remove the ice from around them ; while at Blackfriars the 
 masses of ice were 18 feet thick. The sudden breaking-up of the ice, with the rush of 
 the people to the shores, at night, was a fearful scene. A vessel lying off Rotherhithe, 
 fastened by a cable and anchor to a beam of a public-house, in the night veered about 
 and pulled the house to the ground, killing five sleeping inmates. 
 
 1811, January. The Thames frozen over. 
 
 1813-14. Great frost, commenced Dec. 27, with a thick fog, followed by two days' 
 heavy fall of snow. During nearly four weeks' frost, the wind blew almost uninter- 
 ruptedly from the north and north-east, and the cold was intense. The river was 
 covered with vast heaps of floating ice, bearing piles of snow, which, Jan. 2629, were 
 floated down, filling the space between London and Blackfriars Bridges ; next day, 
 the frost recommenced, and lasted to Feb. 5, uniting the whole into a sheet of ice. 
 Jan. 30, persons walked over it ; and Feb. 1, the unemployed watermen commenced 
 their ice-toll, by which many of them received 61. per day. The Frost Fair now com- 
 menced : the street of tents, called the City-road, put forth its gay flags, inviting 
 signs, and music and dancing : a sheep was roasted whole before sixpenny spectators, 
 and the " Lapland mutton " sold at a shilling a slice ! Printing-presses were set up, 
 and among other records was printed the following : 
 
 Jrost Jatr. 
 
 Amidst the Arts which on the THAMES appear 
 To tell the wonders of this icy year 
 PBINTIITG claims prior place, which at one view 
 Erects a monument of THAT and You. 
 
 Printed on the River Thames, February 4, in the 54th year of the reign of King 
 George III. Anno Domini 1814. 
 
 One of the invitations ran thus : 
 
 " You that walk here, and do design to tell 
 Your children's children what this year befell, 
 Come buy this print, and then it will be seen 
 That such a year as this hath seldom been." 
 
 In the Fair were swings, book-stalls, dancing in a barge, suttling-booths, playing at 
 skittles, frying sausages, &c. The ice and snow, in upheaved masses, as a foreground 
 to St. Paul's and the City, had a striking effect ; and the scene, by moonlight, was 
 singularly picturesque. On Feb. 5, the ice cracked, and floated away with booths, 
 printing-presses, &c. j the last document printed being a jeu-de-mot " to Madame 
 Tabitha Thaw." Among the memorials is a duodecimo volume, pp. 124, now before 
 us : it is entitled, " Frostiana; or, a History of the River Thames in a frozen state, 
 with an Account of the late Severe Frost, &c. ; to which is added the Art of Skating. 
 London : Printed and published on the Ice on the River Thames, February 5, 1814, 
 by G. Davis ;" the title-page was worked upon a large ice-island between Blackfriars 
 and Westminster Bridges. In the Illustrated London News, No. 138, is an engraving 
 of the Frost Fair of 1814, from a sketch near London Bridge, by Luke Clennell. 
 
 FULWOOD'S EENTS, 
 
 "TTULGO, " Fuller's Rents," in Holborn, nearly opposite Chancery-lane, is a court, now 
 meanly inhabited ; but was of much better repute in the time of James I., when its 
 possessor, Christopher Fulwood, Esq., resided here. Strype describes it as running up 
 to Gray's Inn, " into which it has an entrance through the gate" (now closed) ; " a 
 place of good resort, and taken up by coffee-houses, ale-houses, and houses of enter- 
 tainment, by reason of its vicinity to Gray's Inn. On the east side is a handsome 
 open place, with a freestone pavement, and better built, and inhabited by private 
 housekeepers. At the upper end of this court is a passage into the Castle Tavern, a 
 house of considerable trade, as is the Golden Griffin Tavern, on the west side." Here
 
 364 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 was John's, one of the earliest coffee-houses ; and adjoining Gray's Inn gate, on the 
 west side, is a deep-coloured brick house, once Squire's Coffee-house, whence some of 
 the Spectators are dated : it has been handsome and roomy, with a wide staircase. 
 Within one door of Gray's Inn was Ned Ward's (London Spy) punch-house, much 
 frequented by the wits of his day. 
 
 For some time before 1699, until his death in 1731, Ward kept this house, which he 
 thus puffs in his London Spy ; being a vintner, we may rest assured that he would 
 have penned this in praise of no other but himself: 
 
 " To speak but the truth of my honest friend Ned, 
 The best of all vintners that ever God made ; 
 He's free of the beef, and as free of his bread, 
 And washes both down with his glass of rare red, 
 That tops all the town, and commands a good trade ; 
 Such wine as will cheer up the drooping King's head, 
 And brisk up the soul, though our body's half-dead ; 
 He scorns to draw bad, as he hopes to be paid ; 
 And now his name's up, he may e'en lie abed ; 
 For he'll get an estate there's no more to be said." 
 
 The Castle Tavern, mentioned by Strype, was many years kept by Thomas Winter 
 ("Tom Spring"), the pugilist, who died here, August 20, 1851. 
 
 About the centre of the east side of Fulwood's Rents is a curious gabled and 
 projecting house, temp James I. Mr. Archer has engraved a ground-floor room, 
 entirely panelled with oak; the mantelpiece is well carved in oak, with caryatides 
 and arched niches ; the ceiling beams are carved in panels ; and the entire room is 
 original, except the window. A larger room on the first floor contains another old 
 mantelpiece, very florid. The front of the house is said to be covered with ornament, 
 now concealed by plaster. ( Vestiges of Old London, part v.) 
 
 GARDENS. 
 
 TjlITZSTEPHEN records that in the time of Henry II. (1154-1189) the citizens of 
 J- London had large and beautiful gardens to their villas. The royal garden at 
 Westminster was noted for its profusion of roses and lilies in 1276 ; and there is extant 
 an order of Edward I. for pear-trees for his garden, and that at the Tower. 
 
 "Within the compass of one age, Somerset House and the buildings were called country-houses; 
 and the open places about them were employed in gardens for profit : and also many parts within the 
 City and liberties were occupied by working gardeners, and were sufficient to furnish the town with 
 garden-ware ; for then but a few herbs were used at the table in comparison to what are spent now." 
 Stow. 
 
 About two and a half centuries since, the citizens took their noon-tide and evening 
 walks in their gardens. Cornhill was then an open space, and the ground from thence 
 to Bishopsgate-street was occupied as gardens, as were also the Minories. Goodman's 
 Fields were an extensive inclosure ; and most of East Smithfield was an open space, 
 partly used for bleaching. Spitalfields were entirely open. From Houndsditch, a 
 street, but interspersed with gardens, extended nearly to Shoreditch Church, then 
 nearly the last building in that direction. Moorfields were used for drying linen; 
 cattle grazed and archers shot in Finsbury Fields, at the verge of which were three 
 windmills. Goswell-street was a lonely road ; and Islington Church stood in the dis- 
 tance, with a few houses and gardens near it. In Smithtield, horses were exercised, 
 and on the western side was a row of trees. Clerkenwell was mostly occupied by the 
 precincts of St. John's Priory, beyond which, on the Islington-road, were a few de- 
 tached houses, with gardens. From Cow Cross to Gray's Inn-lane, the ground was 
 either waste or in gardens ; and between Shoe-lane and Fetter-lane was much open 
 ground. At Drury-lane commenced the village of St. Giles : near the church were a 
 few houses surrounded with trees. Beyond the church all was open country, the main 
 roads being distinguished by avenues of trees. Leicester Fields and Soho were open 
 ground. Spring Garden was literally a garden, reaching to the site of the present 
 Admiralty. The dwellings in the lower part of Westminster were inns and poor cot- 
 tages, with small gardens. Whitehall-palace had its stately gardens, as had also the 
 several noble mansions on the south side of the Strand. Isaac Walton quotes from a 
 contemporary German poet :
 
 GARDENS. 365 
 
 " So many gardens, dressed with curious care, 
 That Thames with Eoyal Tiber may compare." 
 
 These gardens had their water-gates ; one of which, York-house-gate, remains, with 
 a terrace shaded hy lime-trees. 
 
 Leicester House, at the north-east corner of Leicester-square, had its spacious 
 gardens, now the site of Lisle-street, built in 1791. 
 
 Holborn (Old-bourne) was famed for its gardens : Ely -place had its kitchen and 
 flower gardens, vineyard and orchard, and the bishops were celebrated for raising choice 
 fruit. (See ELY PLACE, p. 321.) Gerarde was an apothecary, and, before the year 
 1597, had a large physic-garden near his house in Holborn, where he raised 1000 
 plants and trees ; a proof " that our ground could produce other fruits besides hips and 
 haws, acorns, and pignuts." Gerarde had another physic-garden, in Old-street : his 
 earliest publication was the Catalogue (in Latin) of his own garden in Holborn, printed 
 in 1596, 4to; reprinted in 4to, 1599. The first edition was dedicated to Lord 
 Burghley, whose garden Gerarde had superintended for twenty years : the second 
 edition was dedicated to Sir Walter Raleigh. A copy of the first edition (of extreme 
 rarity) is in the British Museum ; and it proved of great use to Mr. Alton in preparing 
 his Hortus Kewensis, by enabling him to ascertain the time when many old plants 
 were first cultivated. Gerarde dated the first edition of his Serial from Holborn. 
 "Wood calls him "the best herbalist of his time." Among the Lansdowne MSS. in the 
 British Museum, is a letter of Gerarde's own drawing-up, for Lord Burghley to re- 
 commend to the University of Cambridge the establishment of a physic-garden there, 
 to encourage the " facultie of simpling." Several London localities of Gerarde's sim- 
 pling may be gathered from his Serial. Thus, he says : " Of water violets I have 
 not found any such plenty in any one place as in the water ditches adjoining to Saint 
 George his fielde, near London." He describes Mile End, Whitechapel, as " the 
 common near London where penny -royal grows in great abundance." " The small 
 wild buglosse grows upon the drie ditch bank about Pickadilla ;" and he found " white 
 saxifrage, burr-reedes, &c.," in the ditch, right against the place of execution, St. 
 Thomas-a- Waterings, now the Old Kent-road. 
 
 Baldwin's Gardens, between Leather-lane and Gray's-inn-lane, were, according to a 
 stone upon a corner-house bearing the arms of Queen Elizabeth, named after Richard 
 Baldwin, one of the royal gardeners, who began building here in 1589. 
 
 Montague House, Bloomsbury, had its spacious gardens, " after the French manner " 
 and the gardens of the houses in Great Russell-street were noted for their fragrance. 
 Strype (1720) describes the north side as having gardens behind the houses, with the 
 prospect of pleasant fields up to Hampstead and Highgate, " inasmuch as this place is 
 esteemed the most healthful in London." 
 
 The garden of the Earl of Lincoln was highly kept, long before the mansion became 
 an Inn of Court. The Earl's bailiff's accounts (24 Edward I.) show it to have pro- 
 duced apples, pears, large nuts, and cherries sufficient for the Earl's table, and to yield 
 by sale in one year 135Z., modern currency. The vegetables grown were beans, onions, 
 garlick, leeks ; hemp was grown ; the cuttings of the vines much prized ; of pear-trees 
 there were several varieties ; the only flowers named are roses. (T. Sudson Turner.) 
 The " walk under the elms," celebrated by Ben Jonson, was a favourite resort of 
 Isaac BickerstafF. In 1 and 2 Philip and Mary, the walk under the trees in the 
 coney-garth* or cottrel-garden was made ; and in 15 Car. II. 1663, the said garden 
 was enlarged, and a terrace-walk made on the left side ; of which Pcpys says : " to 
 Lincoln's-Inn, to see the new garden which they are making, which will be very 
 pretty." The garden-wall in Chancery-lane is said to have been partly the labour of 
 Ben Jonson. 
 
 " Gray's Inn for walks, Lincoln's Inn for wall, 
 The Inner Temple for a garden, and the Middle for a wall." 
 
 Lincoln'! Inn. By W. H. Spilsbury, Librarian, 1850. 
 
 The Inns of Court always boasted of their gardens. The Middle Temple has its 
 gardens with an avenue of limes ; the Inner Temple, a more extensive garden and pro- 
 
 * The coney-garth was " well stocked with rabbits and game," and by various ordinances of the 
 Society, temp. Edw. IV., Henry VII., and Henry VIII., penalties were imposed on the students hunting 
 the rabbits with bows and arrows, or darts. 
 
 II
 
 
 366 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 menade. In " the Temple Garden," Shakspeare has laid the scene of the origin of the 
 red and white roses as the cognisances of the houses of York and Lancaster : Richard 
 Plantagenet plucks a white rose, and the Earl of Somerset a red one j an altercation 
 ensues, when the Earl of Warwick thus addresses Plantagenet : 
 
 " In signal of my love to thee, 
 Against proud Somerset and William Poole, 
 Will I upon thy party wear this rose : 
 And here I prophesy, this brawl to-day. 
 Grown to this faction, in the Temple Garden, 
 Shall send, between the red rose and the white, 
 A thousand souls to death and deadly night." 
 
 Fint Part of Henry VI. t act ii. sc. 4. 
 
 The red and white Provence rose no longer blossoms here ; but both the Temple 
 Gardens are well kept, and chrysanthemums here attain surprising perfection until 
 mid-winter : 
 
 " Still alone, 'mid the tumult, these gardens extend ; 
 The elm and the lime over flower-beds bend ; 
 ***** 
 
 The boat, and the barge, and the wave, have grown red ; 
 And the sunset has crimsoned the boughs over-head : 
 But the lamps are now shining, the colours are gone, 
 And the garden lies shadowy, silent and lone." L. E. L. 
 
 Both Lincoln and Gray's Inn had an uninterrupted view over fields and gardens to 
 Hampstead and Highgate, which had then scarcely lost the rich woodland scenery of 
 the ancient forest of Middlesex. Gray's Inn Gardens were laid out under the direction 
 of Francis Bacon, who wrote so practically upon gardening. 
 
 " In the 40 Eliz., at a pension of the bench, ' the summe of 71. 15. 4d. laid out for planting elm trees * 
 in these gardens, was allowed to Mr. Bacon (afterwards Lord Verulam and Lord Chancellor). On the 
 14th November, in the following year, there was an order made for a supply of more young elms ; and 
 it was ordered ' that a new rayle and quickset hedges ' should be set upon the upper long walk, at the 
 discretion of Mr. Bacon and Mr. Wilbraham ; the cost of which, as appeared by Bacon's account, 
 allowed 20th April, 42 Eliz., was 601. 6s. Sd. Mr. Bacon erected a summer-house on a small mount on 
 the terrace, in which, if we may be allowed the conjecture, it is probable he frequently mused upon 
 the subjects of those great works which have rendered his name immortal." Pearce's Inns of Court. 
 
 To this day here is a Catalpa tree, raised from one planted by Lord Bacon, slips of 
 which are much coveted. The walks were in high fashion in Charles II.'s time ; and 
 we read of Pepys and his wife, after church, walking " to Gray's Inne, to observe 
 fashions of the ladies, because of my wife's making some clothes." 
 
 The City Halls, and mansions of the civic aristocracy, usually had their gardens, 
 with terraces and lime-tree walks, fountains, and summer-houses, and decorative 
 grottoes. 
 
 Grocers' Hall had in 1427 its pleasant garden, to which the citizens were admitted on petition to the 
 Company : it contained alleys, hedge-rows, and a bowling-alley, but was reduced in 1802, as we now 
 see it. Drapers' Hall had its garden in 1551, when rents were paid for admission-keys, and it became a 
 fashionable promenade : it is now open to the public. Merchant Tailors' Hall had its garden, with 
 alleys and a terrace, a treasury and summer banqueting-room. Salters' Hall (Oxford-place) had its large 
 garden, into which the infamous Empson and Dudley (temp. Henry VII.), living in " two faire houses " in 
 the rear, "had a dore of intercourse;" and here "they met and consulted of matters at their pleasures" 
 (Stow) ; this being originally the garden of the Priors of Tortington. Ironmongers' Hall had also its 
 garden, for which we find charges for " cutting of the vines and roses, and knots of rosemary." 
 
 Sir Paul Pindar, contemporary with Sir Thomas Gresham, had his garden and park, 
 with an embellished lodge in the rear of his mansion, now a public-house in Bishops- 
 gate-street ; the grounds are covered with lanes, alleys, and blind courts, reaching to 
 Finsbury-square. Gresham-house had also its spacious walks and gardens. 
 
 Finsbury-circus has a fine garden, which was threatened with devastation by a 
 Railway Company, in 1862, when it was saved by the energy of the Directors, one of 
 whom, Mr. Alfred Smee, F.R.S., thus successfully advocated the preservation of this 
 lung of the City of London : 
 
 The centre constitutes a circle planted with exquisite taste with the choicest trees, and forms a tout 
 ensemble which might be admired in any part of the world. It challenges for beauty the garden of any 
 square in London, and it is the admiration and astonishment of foreigners as an affair of private enter- 
 prise, and not a creation of the State. 
 
 A return made by the gardener shows that it contains three trees 60 feet high, and 180 feet in 
 the circle of the head ; 20 trees between 45 and 55 feet high : 34 trees between 35 and 45 feet high; 
 60 trees between 25 and 35 feet high; and 107 trees between 15 and 30 feet high ; besides upwards of 
 700 fine shrubs, and several beautiful weeping trees, all of more than half a century of growth. The 
 effect of trees in the centre of towns cannot be too much appreciated. They carry up large quantities
 
 GARDENS. 367 
 
 of water into the over-dried atmosphere, and this little forest of trees must play an important and 
 beneficial part to the neighbourhood. 
 
 At the present time the City is too crowded, and contains by far too few open spaces and trees. There 
 are two trees in the Bank of England and one in Cheapside, two or three smaller ones in St. Paul's- 
 churchyard, but where are such trees as we possess in Finsbury Circus ? 
 
 Clerkenwell was, iu the present century, famous for its gardens. About the year 
 1830, the lined slope on the east side of Bagnigge-wells-road, had a pleasant rural aspect 
 from its number of " Myddelton Gardens," which belonged to private individuals resi- 
 dent in Clerkenwell, who, in their leisure hours, cultivated here flowers and vege- 
 tables. On these extensive garden-grounds streets and squares of houses have been 
 erected. Another famous group of Clerkeuwell gardens, formerly belonging to the Hos- 
 pital of St. John of Jerusalem, and adjoining Clerkenwell-green, were called Garden- 
 alleys; after the Dissolution, the Hospital- close, of three acres, was converted into gardens- 
 Milton had a poetic liking for " garden-houses," of which there were many in his 
 time : his house in Aldersgate-street opened into a garden j in 1651, he lived in Petty 
 France, now Westminster (York-street, No. 19), " a pretty gajden-house, opening into 
 the Park ;" a cotton-willow tree is said to have been planted here by the poet's hand. 
 Aaron Hill had a house in Petty France, with a garden reaching to St. James's Park, 
 and a grotto in it, described in his Letters at some length. 
 
 Sir John Hill's famous "physic-garden" was at Bayswater; here he cultivated 
 medicinal plants, and prepared essences, tinctures, &c. The site, after being long con- 
 verted into tea-gardens, is now covered with handsome houses. 
 
 Goring House, which occupied the site of Buckingham Palace, had a fountain-garde'iT, 
 westward of which was the cherry-garden and kitchen- gar den of Hugh Audley, Esq., 
 from whom Audley-street, Grosvenor-square, is named. Here, too, was a grove of 
 mulberry-trees, planted by King James I. ; afterwards " the Mulberry Garden." There 
 was another mulberry plantation at Chelsea, upon part of the grounds of Beaufort House. 
 
 Waller describes the wall in St. James's Park as 
 
 "All with a border of rich fruit-trees crown'd." 
 
 Brompton-park Nursery can be traced from 1681. Evelyn describes it as a large 
 and noble assembly of trees, evergreens, and shrubs, for planting the boscage, wilder- 
 ness, or grove ; with elms, limes, platans, Constantinople chestnuts, and black cherry- 
 trees : its " potagere, meloniere, culiniere" garden ; seeds, bulbs, roots, and slips, for 
 the flowering garden : occupying about 56 acres. In 1705, its plants, at \d. each, 
 were valued at 40,0001. ; and it had a wall half a mile long, covered with vines. London 
 and Wise were the proprietors in 1694 : they are praised by Addison in the Spectator 
 for their laying out of Kensington-gardens, where we also see Kent's ha-ha. The 
 " Brompton Stock" is a memorial of the celebrity of this district, which extended to 
 Chelsea ; but the gardens have mostly disappeared, and their ground is built upon : 
 the site of Trinity Church, Brompton, was, in 1828, a market-garden. Chelsea Hospital, 
 however, retains its terrace, little canals, shady lime-walks, and gigantic plane-trees a 
 curious specimen of the Dutch style, temp. William III. ; it has an octagon summer- 
 house, built by Sir John Vanbrugh. " The Old Men's Gardens" to the south-east, 
 including a part of the site of old Ranelagh, were added in 1826, when Lord John 
 Russell was Paymaster-General : here each pensioner had his garden, the dressing of 
 which afforded society and employment ; but these gardens have disappeared. 
 
 In a garden at Little Chelsea the white moss-rose was first discovered, and success- 
 fully cultivated. As the eighteenth century advanced, the Botanic Gardens at Chelsea, 
 and its curator, Philip Miller, came into notice. 
 
 Buckingham- Palace Gardens comprise about forty acres, of which nearly five are a 
 lake : upon a mount is a pavilion of Chinese design, the interior decorated in the Pom- 
 peian and Raphaelesque style, with paintings from Milton's Comus, and Scott's novels 
 and poems, by Eastlake, Maclise, Ross, &c. : the grounds are secluded by majestic 
 elms ; whilst the principal front of the palace commands the landscape-garden of St. 
 James's Park. The old palace of St. James's and Maryborough House, have their 
 gardens ; and in the same line were the grounds of Carlton House, with conservatories 
 and rookery, now occupied by lofty terraces of mansions ; but Buckingham House, and 
 the several Club-houses on the south side of Pall Mall, have their gardens. 
 
 Kensington Palace has its flower-garden of quaint design. In this direction lies
 
 363 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Holland House, with its stately cedars, oaks, and planes ; its flower-garden, with ever- 
 greens clipped into fantastic forms ; beds of Italian and old English character, fountains 
 and terraces befitting the architectural garden of this Elizabethan mansion : in the 
 " French Garden," in 1804, was first raised in England the Dahlia, from seeds sent by 
 Lord Holland from Spain. 
 
 Campden House, Kensington, had a sheltered garden, in which the wild olive once 
 flourished ; and here a caper-tree produced fruit yearly for a century. 
 
 Vauxhall, noticed by Evelyn in 1661, as "the New Spring Garden, a pretty- 
 contriv'd plantation," is mentioned otherwise than as a mere promenade : Monoconys, 
 about 1663, describes its squares " inclosed with hedges of gooseberries, within which 
 were roses, beans, and asparagus." 
 
 Hard by was Tradescant's garden at South Lambeth, well stored with rare and 
 curious plants collected in his travels : including roses from Rose Island, near Port St. 
 Nicholas. This garden existed in 1749, and is described in Philos. Trans, vol. xlvi. 
 Tradescant was " King's Gardener," temp. Charles T. ; and, with his son, assembled 
 at Lambeth the rarities which became the nucleus of the Ashmolean Museum. 
 
 In the Catalogue of their Garden, published by the second Tradescant, are Hollyhocks, Southern- 
 wood, Wormwood, the classical Acanthus, Prince's Feathers ; that " great Flouramour, or purple flowre 
 gentle ;" Anemones of all sorts; Dogsbane ; the "Arbor Judse, or Judas Tree, with red flowres ;" the 
 Birth worts of the south; numerous North- American plants; Meadow Saffrons from Constantinople ; 
 that "Fragraria Novae Anglise nondam descripta," the mother of our Keen's Seedlings, and Scarlet and 
 British Queen Strawberries ; the " Hippomarathrutn," or Rhubarb of the Monks ; Marvels of Peru ; 
 " Paralysis fatua, foolish Cowslip, or Jack-an-apes on Horseback," probably the green monster of the 
 common Oxlip; Pappas, or Virginian Potatoes; "Populus alba Virginiana Tradescanti," apparently 
 one of our Tacamahacs ; Musk Roses, Double Yellow Roses, and " Muscovie Roses ;" Fox Grapes, from 
 Virginia; White and Red Burlett Grapes, Currant Grape, Muscadells, " Frontinack or Musked Grape, 
 white and red; " and other rarities, filling more than 100 pages. Gardener's Chronicle, 1852. 
 
 Lambeth was formerly noted for its public gardens. Here was Cuper's garden, laid 
 out with walks and arbours by Boydell Cuper, gardener to Thomas Earl of Arundel, 
 who gave Cuper some of the mutilated Arundelian marbles (statues), which he set up 
 in his garden : it was suppressed in 1753 : the site is now crossed by Waterloo- 
 road. The site of St. John's Church, and Christ Church, Blackfriars-road, was 
 formerly occupied by gardens, through which lay the old Halfpenny Hatch footpath. 
 (See ST. GEORGE'S FIELDS, p. 376.) 
 
 Opposite the Asylum were the Apollo Gardens, opened about 1788 : the old orchestra 
 was removed to Sydney Gardens, Bath. In the present Southwark -bridge-road was 
 Finch's Grotto and Garden, established about 1760 : here Suett and Nan Cattley acted 
 and sang : the old Grotto house was burnt in 1795, but was rebuilt, and a stone inserted 
 with this inscription : 
 
 " Here Herbs did grow, 
 And Flowers sweet ; 
 But now 'tis call'd 
 St. George's-street." 
 
 Attached to some of the modern mansions in the town are pleasant landscape - 
 gardens : from the rear of Devonshire House is a rus-in-urbe seemingly extending to 
 Berkeley-square, by means of the sunken passage between the grounds of Lansdowne 
 and Devonshire Houses. 
 
 The gardens in the centres of the several Squares are oases highly kept. Mr. London 
 was one of the first to recommend the lighter trees, as the Oriental plane, the syca- 
 more, the almond, and others, which now add greatly to the beauty of the London Squares. 
 
 The Nursery and Market Gardens around London have yielded to railways and 
 the building of suburban towns. 
 
 The growth of London has pushed the Market Gardener gradually into the country; and now, in- 
 stead of sending up his produce by his own waggons, he trusts it to the railway, and is often thrown 
 into a market fever by a late delivery. To compensate him, however, for the altered state of the times, 
 he often sells his crops like a merchant upon 'Change, without the trouble of bringing more than a few 
 hand-samples in his pockets. He is nearly 70 years of age, but looks scarcely 50, and can remember 
 the time when there were 10,000 acres of ground within four miles of Charing-cross under cultiva- 
 tion for vegetables, besides about 3000 acres planted with fruit to supply the London consumption. 
 He has lived to see the Deptford and Bermondsey gardens curtailed ; the Hoxton and Hackney gardens 
 covered with houses; the Essex plantations pushed further off; and the Brompton and Kensington 
 nurseries the home of vegetables for centuries dug up and sown with International Exhibition 
 temples, and Italian gardens that will never grow a pea or send a single cauliflower to market. He 
 has lived to see Guernsey and Jersey, Cornwall, the Seilly Islands, Holland, Belgium, and Portugal, 
 with many other more distant places, competing with the remote outskirts of London bricks and mortar.
 
 GARDENS. 366 
 
 and has been staprgered by seeing the market supplied with choice early peas from such an unexpected 
 quarter as French Algeria. Curnhil 1 Magazine, 18ti6. 
 
 In the heart of London, some gardens are much frequented hy hirds. The garden 
 attached to the house of Mr. John Britton, at the south end of Burton-street, St. 
 Pancras, was much resorted to by the sparrow, rohin, tomtit, wren, crow, starling, and 
 whitethroat, the latter having bred here for several years. 
 
 In St. George's, Bloomsbury, and a few other parishes, are held Working Men's 
 Flower-shows of window-sill floriculture as fuchsias, geraniums, and other flowering 
 plants ; annuals are grown in pots by Sunday-school children, who thus rear dwarf 
 orange and lemon-trees, walnut-trees, and even date palms and locust-trees, from stones 
 and seeds. 
 
 Churchyards, no longer used for interments, are now laid out as gardens. Sc. 
 Botolph's, Bishopsgate, has its flower-beds enriched with terra-cotta tiles, instead of box 
 edging; Virginia stocks, scarlet and yellow nasturtiums, are favourite flowers; the 
 shrubs are mostly poplars and planes : a sum is yearly voted by the vestry to keep 
 up this garden. The south-eastern portion of the bur,5al-ground of St. Paul's Cathedral 
 has also been laid out in flower-beds, and planted with shrubs. 
 
 BOTANIC GARDENS. In Great Britain, the first Botanic Gardens were called Physic 
 Gardens, and were used principally as places for growing and studying medical plants. 
 The first English Botanic Garden of which we have any distinct account was at Syon 
 House, where it was under the superintendence of Dr. Turner, one of our earliest 
 English botanists. This was about the middle of the sixteenth century ; but a few 
 years later we find botany extensively cultivated in England ; and L'Obel, after whom 
 the genus Lobelia was named, was styled herbalist and botanist to James I. In the 
 next reign, as we have seen, Tradescant had his botanic garden at South Lambeth ; and 
 in the reign of Charles II., that at Chelsea was established. 
 
 BOTANIC GARDEN, OR " PHYSIC GARDEN," OF THE APOTHECARIES' COMPANY, upon 
 the Thames Bank at Chelsea, is maintained by the Company for the use of the medical 
 students of London. The ground was first laid out in 1673. Evelyn saw here, in 
 1685, a tulip-tree and a tea-shrub, and the first hot-house known in England ; " the 
 subterranean boat conveyed by a stove under the conservatory, all vaulted with brick," 
 so that " the doores and windowes" are open in the hardest frosts, excluding only the 
 snow. On Sir Hans Sloane purchasing the manor of Chelsea in 1721, he grafted the 
 freehold of the Garden to the Apothecaries' Company, on condition that the Professor 
 who gave the lectures to the medical students should deliver annually to the Royal 
 Society fifty new plants, well cured and specifically described, and of the growth of 
 the Garden, till the number should amount to 2000. This condition was complied 
 with, and a list of the new plants published yearly in the Philosophical Transactions, 
 for about fifty years, when, 2500 plants having been presented, the custom was dis- 
 continued. The garden is about three acres in extent: it contains a marble 
 statue of Sir Hans Sloane, by Rysbrack, set up in 1733; and it formerly had 
 two noble cedars, planted in 1683, when about three feet high : in 1766, they measured 
 more than twelve feet in circumference at two feet from the ground, and their branches 
 extended forty feet in diameter. One of these cedars is said to have been brought from 
 Lebanon for Sir Hans Sloane ; one was blown down in the year 1 854. The Apothecaries' 
 Company give annually a gold and silver medal to the best informed students in 
 botany who have attended this Garden ; and they still observe an old custom of 
 summer herbarizing, or simpling excursions to the country, when the members are 
 accompanied by apprentices or pupils. 
 
 BOTANIC SOCIETY (ROYAL), incorporated in 1839, have gardens occupying a portion 
 of the Inner Circle, Regent's Park, formerly Jenkins's Nursery. They consist of about 
 eighteen acres, but they have been laid out by Marnock with so much skill as to 
 appear of very much greater extent : they contain a winter garden ; besides a conser- 
 vatory, entirely of glass and iron, covering 15,000 square feet, which cost about 6000^., 
 and will accommodate 2000 visitors. The Society hold exhibitions, and distribute prize 
 medals. The Rock, Winter, and Landscape Gardens, with their lake and artificial 
 mound, are very picturesque, and of the natural school. There are, also, a Library $ ' 
 
 B B
 
 370 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and an useful Museum, illustrative of the varieties of structure in the parts of plants, 
 their products and uses. In several parts of the botanic ground are privet hedges, each 
 forming the segment of a circle, and curiously cut so as to make each look like a minia- 
 ture green wall. These hedges are for the purpose of sheltering some of the more 
 tender plants from the wind. Beyond the arrangement of plants according to the 
 Natural System, is a medical garden. Farther on is a collection of British plants 
 arranged according to the classes and orders of Linnams, as an example of the Linnamn 
 System. 
 
 HoBTicui/nrBAii SOCIETY'S GABDENS, The, at Chiswick, are thirty-three acres in 
 extent, and were commenced in 1821 : they comprise Orchard and Kitchen, Hot-house 
 and Tender and Hardy departments, the latter containing the arboretum and flower- 
 garden; besides a conservatory, 184 feet long, 25 feet high, and about 30 feet wide. 
 The arboretum contains the richest collection of trees and shrubs in Europe; the 
 orchard is the most perfect ever formed ; and the forcing-houses and hot-houses are 
 complete. The Society distributes plants, seeds, and cuttings, to Members, foreign 
 correspondents, and the British colonies. In 1861, the Horticultural Society decided 
 upon forming another Garden at South Kensington, where the Commissioners of the 
 Great Exhibition of 1851 let to the Society the upper part of the great centre square 
 of their estate, about twenty-two acres ; the Commissioners expending about 50,000/. 
 in building arcades in the new Gardens ; the Society expending an equal amount in 
 terraces, fountains, conservatories, and in laying out the grounds. The arcades were 
 designed by Sydney Smirke and Captain Fowke, and the Gardens were laid out by 
 Nesfielu. The great Conservatory, at the northern extremity of the Garden, is of glass 
 and iron, and is 263 feet long, and 75 feet 6 inches in height : the span of the arched 
 roof is 45 feet ; the columns are 15 feet apart ; there is an arcade, with flights of stairs, 
 leading to the gallery and to the top of the upper arcades in the Garden. The arcade 
 in the conservatory is formed with terra-cotta columns, and ornamented brick arches. 
 The works are thus jocosely described : " So the brave old trees which skirted the 
 paddock of Gore House were felled, little ramps were raised, and little slopes sliced 
 off, with a fiddling nicety of touch which would have delighted the imperial grandeur 
 of the Summer Palace ; and the tiny declivities thus manufactured were tortured into 
 curvilinear patterns, where sea-sand, chopped coal, and powdered bricks atoned for the 
 absence of flower or shrub." (Quarterly Review.) The area was inclosed with Mr. 
 Smirke's Renaissance arcades, in brick at the upper portion, and the terra-cotta imita- 
 tion of the Lateran cloister, produced by the Department round the southern half. 
 Among the more prominent ornamental objects in the Gardens are the cascade and its 
 stupendous basin, and Minton's superb Majolica Fountain. The Gardens are elaborately 
 described in The Book of the Royal Horticultural Society, 1862-1863. (See 
 MUSEUMS : South Kensington.) 
 
 KEW EOYAL BOTANICAL GABDENS are generally considered the richest in England, 
 though comparatively of recent formation. The Prince of Wales, son of George II., 
 and father of George III., lived at Kew House, which had extensive pleasure-grounds ; 
 and, after his death, his widow, the Princess Dowager, assisted by the Earl of Bute, 
 established the Botanic Garden. Several years afterwards Sir Joseph Banks bestowed 
 upon it the immense collection of plants and seeds he had obtained in his voyages ; and 
 other travellers following his example, the Gardens soon became filled with the rarest 
 and choicest plants. The new Palm-house is 362 feet 6 inches long ; the ribs and 
 columns are of wrought iron, and the roofs are glazed with sheet glass, slightly tinged 
 green ; the floor is of perforated cast-iron, under which are laid the pipes, &e., for 
 warming by hot water ; and the smoke is conveyed from the furnaces by a flue, 479 
 feet, to an ornamental shaft or tower, 60 feet in height. The cost of this magnificent 
 Palm-house has been upwards of 30,0001. The Gardens, under the judicious curator- 
 ship ot Sir W. J. Hooker, were greatly extended and improved. Among the rarities 
 here is a weeping willow, raised from that which overshadowed Napoleon's remains at 
 St. Helena;* the Egyptian papyrus; the bread-fruit-tree from the South Sea Islands; 
 
 * Willows from slips brought from Napoleon's trees at St. Helena were, in the year 1836, flourishing 
 in the garden of Captain Stevens, Beaomoat-Bquare, Mile End ; in the grounds of the late Sir Thomas
 
 GAS-LIGHTING. 371 
 
 the cocoa-nut, coffee, and cow trees ; the banana and cycas (sago) ; the gigantic 
 Tussack grass, &c. The Gardens are the richest in the world in New Holland plants. 
 The Herbarium receives large collections from important Government expeditions ; 
 applications for advice from persons proceeding to take charge of plantations of tea, 
 cinchona, cotton, coffee, &c. j and the redoubled activity of the colonies in the publica- 
 tion of their Floras, which, though paid for by the Colonial Government, can only be 
 prepared at Kew, or by persons in direct and constant correspondence with its Her- 
 baria and Museums. The Flora of the British possessions in India is proceeded with 
 upon the same plan as the colonial Floras. Very satisfactory has been the success of 
 the introduction of cinchona plantations in India, in the establishment of which Kew 
 has had so large a share. 
 
 GAS-LIGHTING. 
 
 H^HE Very Eev. Dr. Clayton, Dean of Kildare, having experimentally ascertained that 
 J- a permanently elastic and inflammable aeriform fluid is evolved from pit-coal ; 
 described the same in a letter to the Hon. Robert Boyle, who died in 1691 ; though the 
 discovery was not piiblished in the Philosophical Transactions till the year 1739. 
 Hughes, in his Treatise on Gas-works, 1853, says : "To the celebrated Dr. Watson, 
 Bishop of Llandaff, we are indebted for the first notice of the important fact, that coal 
 gas retains its inflammability after passing through water into which it was allowed to 
 ascend through curved tubes j" but there is evidence in the Miscellanea Curiosa, 
 1705-6-7, vol iii. p. 281, to show that Dr. Clayton also discovered that gas retains its 
 inflammability after passing through water. (See Notes and Queries, 2nd S., No. 38, 
 pp. 324-5.) 
 
 Although the Chinese have, for ages, employed natural Coal-Gas for lighting their 
 streets and houses, only within the present century has Gas superseded in London the 
 dim oil-lights and crystal-glass lamps of the preceding century. Dr. Johnson is said to 
 have had a prevision of this change ; when, one evening, from the window of his house 
 in Bolt-court, he observed the parish lamplighter ascend a ladder to light one of the 
 glimmering oil-lamps : he had scarcely descended the ladder halfway when the flame 
 expired ; quickly returning, he lifted the cover partially, and thrusting the end of his 
 torch beneath it, the flame was instantly communicated to the wick by the thick 
 vapour which issued from it. "Ah!" exclaimed the Doctor, "one of these days the 
 streets of London will be lighted by smoke .'" (Notes and Queries, No. 127.) 
 
 Coal-gas had been used for lighting by William Murdoch, in Cornwall, Birmingham, 
 and Manchester as early as 1792, when P. A. Winsor, a German, after several experi- 
 ments, lighted the old Lyceum Theatre in 1803-1804; he also established a New 
 Light and Heat Company, with 50,0001. for further experiments ; in 1807 he lighted 
 one side of Pall Mall, and on the King's birthday (June 4,) brilliantly illuminated the 
 wall between Pall Mall and St. James's Park ; and next exhibited Gas-light at the 
 Golden-lane Brewery, August 16, 1807. 
 
 In 1809 Winsor applied to Parliament for a charter, when the testimony of Accum, 
 the chemist, was bitterly ridiculed by the Committee. In 1810-12 was esta- 
 blished the Gas-Light and Coke Company, in Cannon-row, Westminster ; removed to 
 Peter-street, or Horseferry-road, then the site of a market-garden, poplars, and a tea- 
 garden. In 1814 Westminster Bridge was lighted with gas; and the old oil-lamps 
 were removed from St. Margaret's parish, and gas lanterns substituted ; and on Christmas- 
 day, 1814, commenced the general lighting of London with gas. Yet the scheme had 
 been so ridiculed, that Sir Humphry Davy, F.R.S., asked " if it were intended to take 
 the dome of St. Paul's for a gasometer." Dr. Arnott has truly said, with respect to the 
 mistakes about gas-lighting, that " such scientific men as Davy, Wollaston, and Watt, 
 at first gave an opinion that coal-gas could never be safely applied to the purposes of 
 street lighting." 
 
 " Winsor's patent Gas" first illumined (Jan. 28, 1807,) the Carlton House side of 
 
 turn 21ril<innicum. 
 
 B B 2
 
 372 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Pall Mall ; the second, Bishopsgate-street. The writer attended a lecture given by 
 the inventor ; the charge of admittance was three shillings, but, as the inventor was 
 about to apply to Parliament, members of both houses were admitted gratis. The 
 writer and a fellow -jester assumed the parts of senators at a short notice. " Members 
 of Parliament I" was their important ejaculation at the door of entrance. " What places, 
 gentlemen ? " " Old Sarum and Bridgewater." " Walk in, gentlemen." Luckily, the 
 real Simon Pares did not attend. This Pall Mall illumination was further noticed in 
 Horace in London ; 
 
 " And Winsor lights, with flame of gas, 
 Home to King's-place his mother." 
 
 In the Peace Rejoicings of 1814, the Chinese bridge and pagoda on the canal, in St. 
 James's Park, were lighted with gas. Mr. Jerdan, in his Autobiography, relates : 
 
 " My friend, David Pollock, who was about the earliest promoter of the introduction of gas from 
 the invention of Mr. Winsor the first successful experimentalist with it in his ,own dwelling and 
 for 30 years Governor of the Chartered Gas Light and Coke Company, was so concerned in the applica- 
 tion, that he hastened to London from the Circuit to be present at the lighting of the bridge and pagoda 
 with this new flame. Mortifying to relate, it will be remembered that the pagoda caught fire : the gas 
 was put out, happily without explosion, and every part thrown into smouldering darkness." 
 
 In 1814, a Committee of Members of the Royal Society was appointed to inquire 
 into the causes which led to an explosion of the Gas-works in Westminster, which had 
 only just been established. The Committee consisted of Sir Joseph Banks, Sir C. 
 Blagden, Col. Congreve, Mr. Lawson, Mr. Rennie, Dr. Wollaston, and Dr. Young 
 They met several times at the Gas-works, for the purpose of examining the apparatus, 
 and made a very elaborate Report. They were strongly of opinion that if gas- 
 lighting was to become prevalent, the Gas-works ought to be placed at a considerable 
 distance from all buildings, and that the reservoirs, or gasometers, should be small and 
 numerous ; and always separated from each other by mounds of earth, or strong party- 
 walls. (Weld's Hist. Royal Society, vol. ii. pp. 235-6.) 
 
 In 1822, St. James's Park was first lighted with gas; and the last. important locality 
 to adopt gas lighting was Grosvenor- square in 1842. 
 
 Theatres were first lighted in 1817-18; church clock-dials in 1827. The Hay- 
 market was the last of the London theatres into which gas was introduced, in conse- 
 quence of some absurd prejudice of the proprietor of that theatre, who bound the lessee 
 to adhere to the old-fashioned method of lighting with oil. The change took place 
 April 15, 1853. 
 
 Coal-gas is made from coal enclosed in red-hot cast-iron or clay cylinders, or retorts ; 
 when hydro-carbon gases are evolved, and coke left behind ; the gas being carried away 
 by wide tubes, is next cooled and washed with water, and then exposed to lime in close 
 purifiers. It is then stored in sheet-iron gas-holders, miscalled gasometers : some of 
 which hold 700,000 cubic feet of gas ; and the several London Companies have storage 
 for millions of cubic feet of gas. Thence it is driven by the weight of the gas-holders 
 through cast-iron mains or pipes under the streets, and from them by wrought-iron 
 service-pipes to the lamps and burners. 
 
 The London Gas Company's works, Vauxhall, are the most powerful and complete 
 in the world : from this point, their mains pass across Vauxhall-bridge to western 
 London; and by Westminster and Waterloo Bridges to Hampstead and Highgate, 
 seven miles distant, wheie they supply gas with the same precision and abundance as 
 at Vauxhall. 
 
 Gas made from oil and resin is too costly for street-lighting, but has been used for 
 large public establishments. Covent- garden Theatre was formerly lighted with oil- 
 gas, made on the premises ; and the London Institution, with resin-gas, first made by 
 Mr. Daniell. The lime-ball, Bude, Boccius, and electric lights have been exhibited 
 experimentally for street-lighting, but are too expensive. Upon the Patent Air-light 
 (from the vapour of hydro-carbon, mixed with atmospheric air), proposed in 1838, 
 upwards of 30,OOOZ. were expended unsuccessfully. 
 
 "What has the new light of all the preachers done for the morality and order of London, compared 
 to what had been effected by gas lighting ! Old Murdoch alone has suppressed more vice than the 
 Suppression Society; and has been a greater police-officer into the bargain thau old Colquhoun and 
 Sir Richard Birnie united. Westminster Review, 1829. 
 
 From a recent Parliamentary Ketum, it appears that in the year 18C5, the total revenue paid by the
 
 GATE-HOUSE GEOLOGY OF LONDON. 373 
 
 consumers and the public for gas in the metropolis, amounts to the large sum of 1,767,2611. 19s. 9<J. per 
 annum. This total increases every year with the growth of the metropolis and the increased consump- 
 tion of gas. 
 
 A public lamp has been kept up in a part of Billingsgate, where, upwards of 200 years ago, a citizen 
 fell at night and broke his leg, and afterwards bequeathed a sum of 4Z. a year for the maintenance 
 thereof a public light at night for all time. The money has been paid for two centuries; and, since the 
 introduction of gas, to a gas company, who have kept up the light. 
 
 An ordinary candle consumes as much air while burning 1 as a man in health while 
 breathing ; the same may be said with regard to gas, oil-lamps, &c., bearing a propor- 
 tion to the amount of light evolved. One hour after the gas of London is lighted, the 
 air is deoxydized as much as if 500,000 people had been added to its population. 
 During the combustion of oil, tallow, gas, c., water is produced. In cold weather we 
 see it condensed on the windows of ill-ventilated shops. By the burning of gas in 
 London during twenty-four hours, more water is produced than would supply a ship 
 laden with emigrants on a voyage from London to Adelaide. 
 
 GATE- HOUSE (THE), WESTMINSTER, 
 
 BUILT temp. Edward III. as the principal approach to the Monastery, stood at the 
 western entrance of Tothill-street, and consisted of two gates, the southern, leading 
 out of Great Dean's-yard, and a receptacle for felons. On the east side was the Bishop 
 of London's prison for clerks-convict ; the rooms over the other gate adjoining, but 
 towards the west, being a prison-house for state, ecclesiastical, and parliamentary 
 offenders, prisoners from the Court of Conscience, as well as for debtors and felons. 
 The latter were brought hither through Thieving-lane and Union-street, to prevent 
 escape by entering the liberties of Sanctuary. 
 
 Among the distinguished prisoners confined here were, Nicholas Vaux, for propagating 
 the Romish religion he died here of cold and hunger, 1571 ; Lady Purbeck, for 
 adultery, 1622 she escaped to France, disguised in a man's dress; John Selden, 
 1630 ; Sir Walter Kaleigh, his last prison-house, whence he was led to the block in 
 Old Palace-yard ; Lovelace, the Cavalier poet, who wrote here his loyal song, " To 
 Althaea, from prison ;" Sir Charles Lyttleton, whom Clarendon said was " worth his 
 weight in gold ;" in 1690, Pepys, the diarist, charged with being affected towards the 
 abdicated James II. ; Sir Jeffrey Hudson, the court-dwarf, suspected of joining the 
 Popish Plot, died here ; in 1701, five " men of Kent," for a " scandalous, insolent, and 
 seditious" petition to the House of Commons ; in 1716, Thomas Harley, for prevarica- 
 tion to the House of Commons; the nonjuring Jeremy Collier, 1692; and Richard 
 Savage, the poet, committed here for the murder of Mr. Sinclair in a tavern fray. The 
 debtors used to let down upon a pole an alms-box, to collect money from the passers in 
 the street. The Gate-house was taken down in 1777 ; except one arch, which remained 
 till 1836 in the wall of the house once inhabited by the Right Hon. Edmund Burke. 
 (See Walcott's Westminster, p. 273.) 
 
 GEOLOaY OF LONDON. 
 
 WE give the views of certain of our leading geologists. The area on which the 
 metropolis is situated, as well as the surrounding district to a distance varying 
 from a radius of ten to twenty or thirty miles, consists of the marine tertiary eocene 
 (dawn of recent) strata, which have been deposited in, and still occupy a depression or 
 excavation of the chalk called the London basin. Around this formation the chalk 
 forms a distinct boundary, on the south, west, and north rising up into chains of hills 
 or downs, averaging 400 feet in height above the level of the Thames ; but on the east 
 the range is broken, and the tertiary basin lies open to the sea, affording a passage for 
 the Thames and its tributary streams. (Mantell.) 
 
 The chalk, so prominent in the country around Gravesend, Croydon, and Epsom, 
 passes beneath London at a depth not exceeding 150 to 250 feet. It is covered, first, 
 by a series of beds of sand and mottled clays, 50 to 80 feet thick ; and these are again 
 overlaid by the London clay, from 100 to 400 feet thick : in the south-east corner of 
 the county it is only 44 feet thick ; while at White's Club-house, St. James's-street, it 
 is 235 feet. This clay is usually very tough and tenacious, with the exception of a por- 
 tion of its upper beds, which is mixed with sand. Mr. R. W. Mylne, F.G.S., in his
 
 374 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 *' Geological and Topographical Maps," 1852, was the first to point out the exact extent 
 of these higher beds, upon the nature of the surface on which the pleasant character of 
 the country of Highgate and Hampstead is dependent.* But the most remarkable 
 variety in the geological features a variety attended by a corresponding diversity of 
 scenery occurs in the district between Woolwich, Greenwich, Blackheath, and Lewis- 
 ham. We there find the outcrops of no less than five different groups of strata, com- 
 mencing with the chalk and ending with the London clay. Throughout a great part 
 of London, this clay is overlaid by drift gravel, varying from 5 to 20 feet in thickness. 
 The chalk basin, formed by the strata bending or dipping in the middle, contains pure 
 water ; into this formation the Artesian Wells of London are often carried down ; bub 
 it is a question as to the quantity. (See ARTESIAN WELLS, p. 23.) 
 
 The gravel is not confined to the low grounds, but caps the highest summits of the 
 districts e.g., Highgate on the north, and Shooter's Hill on the south, of the Thames. 
 To explain this distribution of the gravel by the operation of the actual rivers, we must 
 first suppose that an uniform plain originally existed from the summit of Highgate to 
 the Hertfordshire chalk downs, and from the top of Shooter's Hill to those of Kent, on 
 the surface of which the rivers once flowed; secondly, that these rivers have subse- 
 quently washed away all that immense mass of material which would be requisite thus 
 to re-construct the surface ; and thirdly, that after having worn down that surface into 
 nearly its present form, the rivers perpetually shifted their channels, so as to distribute 
 the gravel equally over the whole plain of London, yet remained long enough in each 
 channel to lodge there deposits of this gravel 20 or 30 feet thick. (Conybeare.) 
 
 Mr. Prcstwich, F.R.S., F.G.S., has, in three lectures, entitled The Ground beneath: 
 Us, most lucidly explained its geological phases and changes. Thus, immediately below 
 the vegetable soil, in many parts of the metropolis, we find a bed of ochreous-coloured 
 gravel, which is the great source of water-supply to all the historic pumps of the City 
 and of Westminster. The greater part of this gravel was brought from the hills of 
 Surrey and Sussex, which have sent us alike the flints, the sandstone and the chert, 
 which compose the bulk of it. A few pebbles formed of quartz, slate and other sub- 
 stances, have evidently been brought from the north-west, by forces acting in a direc- 
 tion diametrically opposite to those which wore down the chalk of Southern England, 
 and deposited its flints in the London basin. How the gravel came is explained by 
 these hypotheses : 1. A great body of water may have swept from the southward into 
 the valley of the Thames ; 2, a large river flowing through Sussex and Surrey may have 
 brought down fragments of the rocks over which it passed ; 3, marine currents may have 
 scattered the gravel over the surface of the country ; 4, ice may have brought its vast, 
 and, as yet, perhaps, imperfectly understood power to aid in the production of the 
 phenomena around us. To all these theories there are objections; but we may pro- 
 visionally accept them all, and allow that the force to which each would assign a too 
 exclusive pre-eminence may have done its part in heaping up that mighty gravel-bed 
 which is so important to the health of the " world-city on the banks of the Thames." 
 Mr. Prestwich has examined both the position of the gravel in the geological series, and 
 the organic remains which are found in various parts of it ; in which investigation he 
 has drawn largely upon Professor Owen's British Fossil Mammals and Birds. On the 
 whole, he concludes that the gravel was spread over Clapham-common before the land 
 in the neighbourhood of London had quite assumed its present configuration. 
 
 The London clay immediately underlies the gravel of the metropolis, at a depth 
 generally of from three to twelve feet; although, of course, it is really separated from 
 it by a vast interval of geological time, by part of the Eocene and by all the Miocene 
 and Pliocene periods. The London clay is very homogeneous in its mass, and where 
 fully developed it measures from 400 to 500 feet in thickness. In the middle of the 
 Thames Valley a great portion of it has been swept away, and at Clapham it is only 
 about 200 feet thick. After determining the position of the London clay in the geo- 
 
 * Mr. Mylne has issued a "Map of the Geology and Contours of London and its Environs," 1857, 
 which, to a scale of 3| inches to one mile, exhibits an area of 176 square miles extending from Kew- 
 bridge on the west to Plumstead Marshes on the east, distant sixteen miles; and from Hornsey on the 
 north, to the Crystal Palace on the south, distant eleven miles showing the variations of level by 
 contour lines, and the geological features of the surface of the ground in and around London, and giving 
 much other useful information.
 
 8T. GEOEGWS FIELDS. 375 
 
 logical scale, Mr. Prestwich examines the organic remains of the formation, from the 
 microscopic foraminifera up to pachyderms allied to the tapir of South America. The 
 plants of Sheppey are also noticed. The characteristic pyritized fruits and twigs of 
 the London clay may be found by tens of thousands upon the open beach at Sheerness. 
 
 Lower London Tertiaries are a much less homogeneous deposit than the mass of clay 
 which lies above it. It is divided into three sub-groups, the highest of which is known 
 as the " basement bed" of the London clay. This is a marine deposit, agreeing in 
 mineralogical character with the strata which lie beneath it, but closely connected with 
 the superincumbent mass by the character of its fossils. Next comes the " Woolwich 
 and Reading Series," a group of fresh water and estuary origin. Still lower we have 
 the " Thanet Sands," a small marine deposit. 
 
 The " Thanet Sands" are economically of great importance, as forming " underneath 
 London and the adjacent districts a large water-bearing stratum that which supplies 
 all the early and many of the later Artesian wells." A large layer of chalk flints of a 
 deep olive or bottle-green colour lies at the base of the " Thanet Sands," and separates 
 them from the upper surface of the chalk. Mr. Prestwich sets before us that wonderful 
 period, comparatively so near to us, when, during the period of the " London clay," 
 under a sun such as now shines on Ternate and Tidore, tall palms and gigantic lianes, 
 and stiff-leaved evergreens were haunted by great troops of monkeys and by huge 
 pachyderms. There are also some very interesting remarks which bear likewise upon 
 the phenomena of the coal period, as to the impossibility of accounting for the hot 
 climate of the Lower Eocene by a mere change in the relative position of land and 
 water. Paper in Saturday Review, 1858. 
 
 Amongst the contents of the London basin are balls of imperfect ironstone (septaria), of which 
 Parker's cement is made ; branches and stems of trees, penetrated by the teredo navali/t, are found here, 
 as is also a species of resin. A fossil tree and nautili were found in digging the Primrose-hill railway- 
 tunnel. Remains of turtles and crocodiles, and elephants' teeth and tusks, have been dug out of the 
 clay at Highgate and Islington. 
 
 Fossils are occasionally found on the rising slopes near Holloway, formed by the earth thrown up In 
 1812, when the Highgate tunnel was made. Fine specimens of echinut mariuus (sea urchin) have been 
 picked up hi a field contiguous to the archway, together with a fish resembling a sole ; another fish, 
 resembling a mackerel, in the brick-fields ; and a narrow stratum of dusty earth abounds with mussels, 
 pectines, and other fossil bivalves ; with large quantities of iron combined with sulphur, in the form 
 of pyrites. In a meadow behind Caen Wood is a spring highly impregnated with iron. 
 
 In 1813, Mr. Trimmer's brick-fields, at Brentford, yielded such a collection of sea-shells, sharks' 
 teeth, bones of the elephant, hippopotamus, ox, and deer, together with fresh-water shells, as to remind 
 one of the relics of a vast menagerie of animals from all quarters of the globe; and in 1840, in excavat- 
 ing 40 feet deep near Kew Bridge, were found several nautili, and smaller marine shells. For the 
 disappearance of the British mammoths, whose remains are found here, Sir R. I. Murchison accounts 
 by viewing England as the comparatively small island she was, when the ancient estuary of the Thames, 
 including the plains of Hyde Park, Chelsea, Hounslow, and Uxbridge, were under water, and the 
 country thus afforded but insufficient feeding-grounds for these stupendous quadrupeds. In the days of 
 the Mammoths, we had in England a hippopotamus larger than the species which now inhabits the Nile. 
 Of our British hippopotamus some remains were dug up by the workmen in preparing the foundations 
 of the New Junior United Service Club-house, in Regent-street. 
 
 Eocene is Sir Charles Lyell's term for the lowest group of the Tertiary system in which the dawu of 
 recent life appears ; and any one who wishes to realize what was the aspect presented by this country 
 during the Eocene period, need only go to Sheerness. If, leaving that place behind him, he walks down 
 the Thames, keeping close to the edge of the water, he will find whole bushels of pyritized pieces of 
 twigs and fruits. These fruits and twigs belong to plants nearly allied to the screw-pine and custard- 
 apple, and to various species of palms and spice-trees which now nourish in the Eastern Archipelago. 
 At the time they were washed down from some neighbouring land, not only crocodilian reptiles, but 
 sharks and innumerable turtles, inhabited a sea or estuary which now forms part of the London dis- 
 trict; and huge boa-coustrictors glided amongst the trees which fringed the adjoining shores. 
 
 ST. GEORGE'S FIELDS, 
 
 "DETWEEN Lambeth and the borough of Southwark, were anciently an important 
 D district, occupied by the Romans, attested by the large quantities of coins, bricks, 
 an urn full of bones, tessellated pavements, &c., found here ; the urn is preserved in the 
 Museum of the Royal Society. St. George's Fields were also crossed by the great 
 Roman road, Watling-street, presumed to have passed from Kent through Old Croydon, 
 or Woodcote (supposed to be the ancient Noviomagus), Streatham, and Newington, to 
 Stone-street in Southwark j and thence by a ferry over the Thames to Dowgate and 
 the Watling-street of our day. A branch of the Ermine-street, from Chichester in 
 Sussex, is also conjectured to have assumed the name of Stone-street on entering Surrey ;
 
 376 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and to have passed by Dorking, Woodcote, Streatham, Kennington, and Ncvvington, 
 across St. George's Fields, into Southwark. This Roman occupation is, however, disputed. 
 
 Maitland, who carefully examined this district, says, " It can hardly be supposed that the sagacious 
 Romans would have made choice of so noisome a place for a station as tet. George's-in-the- Fields must 
 have been ; for to me it is evident, that those fields must have been overflowed by every spring tide. 
 Notwithstanding the river being at present confined by artificial banks, I have frequently at spring- 
 tides seen the small current of water which issues from the river Thames through a common sewer at 
 the Falcon not only fill all the neighbouring ditches, but also at the upper end of Gravel-lane, overflow 
 its banks into St. George's Fields ; and considering that a twelfth part of the water of the river is 
 denied passage by the piers and sterlings of (old) London-bridge (it flowing at an ordinary spring-tide 
 upwards of 19 inches higher on the east than on the west side of the said bridge), I think that this is 
 a plain indication that before the Thames was confined by banks, St. George's-in-the-fields must have 
 been considerably under water every high tide, and that that part of the said fields, called Lambeth- 
 marsh was under water not an age ago." 
 
 St. George's Fields anciently included the whole space peninsulated by the bend of the river Thames, 
 commencing at Greenwich, and terminating at Nine Elms. This was, probably, originally a large 
 marshy bay, across which were several lines of transit at low water, leading from the rising grounds at 
 Norwood, Camberwell, and Dulwich, to fords at variAus places across the Thames. Ptolemy (second 
 century) mentions that the Romans had then settled south of the river, though the north bank was 
 their original station : subsequently, the tract called St. George's Fields having been partially drained, 
 and cuuitetcays (as at Newington) through the marshes constructed, forts and other buildings were 
 erected, and a southern suburb of London gradually arose. Brayley's Surrey, vol. v. p. 337. 
 
 Nearly to the present century, the Fields lay waste, and were the scene of brutalizing 
 sports, political meetings, and low places of entertainment. In their water-ditches 
 Gerarde found plenty of water-violets : and scores of gardens existed here to our time. 
 Here a riot was raised by the mobs who met to visit Wilkes in the King's Bench 
 Prison, in 1768 ; and here Lord George Gordon's rioters met, June 2, 1780 ; and on 
 the 7th, the 700 prisoners in the King's Bench were liberated, and the building set 
 on fire by the populace. Here were the Dog and Duck Wells, in 1695, which grew to 
 be a Sabbath-breaking tavern ; the premises were last tenanted as the School for the 
 Indigent Blind; the site is now included in Bethlem Hospital, and the sculptured 
 sign-stone preserved in the boundary-wall denotes the site of the tavern-entrance. 
 (See BETHLEM HOSPITAL, p. 51 ; BUND SCHOOL, p. 58 ; and ST. GEORGE'S ROMAN 
 CATHOLIC CHTTBCH, p. 238.) 
 
 ST. GILES'S, 
 
 /^RIGINALLY a village in the north-west suburbs of London, was named from an 
 Vy Hospital for lepers, dedicated to the Saint, built on the site of a small church or 
 oratory, and nearly upon the site of the present church, about 1117, by Matilda, queen 
 of Henry I. The gardens and precincts extended between High-street and Hog-lane 
 (now Crown-street), and the Pound,* west of Meux's brewery. In 1213, the village 
 was laid out in garden-plots, with cottages ; it had its ancient stone cross ; and about 
 1225 there was a blacksmith's shop at the north-west end of Drury-lane, which re- 
 mained long after the suppression of the Hospital,f or about 1600, when the " verie 
 pleasant village" was built over ; "on the High-street, Holborn," says Stow, "have 
 ye many faire houses builded, and lodgings for gentlemen, inns for travellers, and such 
 like, up almost, for it lacketh little, to St. Giles's-in-the-Fields." 
 
 Aggas's plan shows fields and gardens from St. Giles's Hospital wall to Chancery, 
 lane, eastward, with a few houses at the north end of Drury-lane, and opposite the pre- 
 sent Red Lion-street, Holborn. Thence to the north side of the Strand are two or 
 three houses in Covent-garden ; Drury House, at the bottom of Drury-lane ; and cattle 
 grazing on the site of Great Queen-street, Lincoln's-inn-fields. Early in the reign of 
 Queen Anne, the whole parish of St. Giles's, except the neighbourhood of Bedford- 
 square and the present Bloomsbury, was covered with houses. 
 
 The village of St. Giles's was noted for its early inns and houses of entertainment. Here was 
 Croche House (Le Croche Hose, or the Crossed Stockings, sign), which belonged to the Hospital cook, 
 anno 1300, and was opposite the north end of Monmouth-stteet. The Swan on the Hoop, in Holborn, 
 
 ' The exact site of St. Giles's Pound (whence miles on the Oxford road were measured), is an area 
 of 30 feet of the broad space where St. Giles's, High-street, Tottenham-court-road, and Oxford-street, 
 meet ; around it was a nestling-place of crime : 
 
 " At Newgate-steps Jack Chance was found, 
 
 And bred up near St. Giles's Pound." 
 t The celebrated Dr. Andrew Boorde rented for many years the Master's House, temp. Henry VIII.
 
 ST. GILES'S. 377 
 
 east of Drury-lane, is mentioned 34 Edward III.; and the White Hart, corner of Holborn and Drury- 
 lane, is shown in Aggas's plan, 1560, and was an inn till 1720. Not tar eastward was the Rose, named 
 in a deed, Edward III. ; with the Vine, a little east of Kingsgate-street, supposed to have been on the 
 site of the Vineyard in Holborn, named in Domesday Book. The Vine was taken down in 1817, and 
 the house built on its site was occupied by Probert, the accomplice of the murderer John Thurtell. 
 The Maidenhead inn, in Dyott-street, flourished early in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The Turnstile 
 Tavern, south-west corner of Great Turnstile, was bequeathed to the parish in 1610; and the Cock and 
 Pye was in the fields of that name. 
 
 About the year 1413, the gallows was removed from the Elms in Smithfield to the 
 north end of the garden-wall of St. Giles's Hospital ; and it is figured in an ancient 
 plan of the district. 
 
 1416. " Thys yere the xiiij day of December Sir John Oldecastell Knyghte was drawne from the 
 tower of London un to sent Gylles in the felde and there was hongyd (on a gallows new made) and 
 brent. Chronicle of the Grey Friars of London. 
 
 The gallows was again removed westward to Tyburn, when St. Giles's became a sorb 
 of half-way house for condemned criminals, who stopped at the Hospital, and afterwards 
 at an hostel built near its site, and were there presented with a large bowl of ale. This 
 gave a moral taint to St. Giles's, and made it a retreat for noisome and squalid outcasts. 
 The Puritans made stout efforts to reform its morals ; and, as the parish books attest, 
 " oppressed tipplers" were fined for drinking on the Lord's-day, and vintners for per- 
 mitting them ; fines were levied for swearing oaths, travelling and brewing on a fast- 
 day, &c. Again, St. Giles's was a refuge for the persecuted tipplers and ragamuffins of 
 London and Westminster in those days ; and its blackguardism was increased by harsh 
 treatment. It next became the abode of knots of disaffected foreigners, chiefly French- 
 men, of whom a club was held in Seven Dials. Smollett speaks, in 1740, of " two 
 tatterdemalions from the purlieus of St. Giles's, and between them both there was but 
 one shirt and a pair of breeches." Hogarth painted his moralities from St. Giles's : 
 his " Giii-lane" has for its background St. George's Church, Bloomsbury, date 1751 : 
 "when," says Hogarth, "these two prints ('Gin-lane' and 'Beer-street') were 
 designed and engraved, the dreadful consequences of gin-drinking appeared in every 
 house in Gin-lane ; every circumstance of its horrid effects is brought to view in ter- 
 rorem not a house in tolerable condition but the pawnbroker's and the gin-shop* the 
 coffin-maker's in the distance." Again, the scene of Hogarth's " Harlot's Progress" 
 is in Drnry-lane ; Tom Nero, in his " Four Stages of Cruelty," is a St. Giles's charity- 
 boy ; and in a night-cellar here the " Idle Apprentice" is taken up for murder. Here 
 were often scenes of bloody fray, riot, and chance-medley ; for in this wretched district 
 were grouped herds of men but little removed from savagery. The Round-house ^7 
 (Watch-house) of St. Giles's was probably one of the last that remained : it stood in 
 an angle of Kendrick-yard, and its back windows looked upon the burial-ground of St. 
 Giles's Church ; it was built in a cylindrical form, like a modern martello tower, though, 
 from bulging, it resembled an enormous cask set on its end : it was two stories high, 
 and had a flat roof, surmounted by a gilded vane, in the shape of a key. (See W. H. L 
 Ainsworth's Jack Sheppard.) 
 
 Seven Dials was built temp. Charles II. for wealthy tenants. Evelyn notes, 1694 : 
 " I went to see the building near St. Giles's, where Seven Dials make a star from a 
 Doric pillar placed in the middle of a circular area, said to be by Mr. Neale (the intro- 
 ducer of the late lotteries), in imitation of Venice, now set up here for himself twice, 
 and once for the state." 
 
 " Where famed St. Giles's ancient limits spread, 
 An in-rail'd column rears its lofty head ; 
 Here to seven streets seven dials count their day, 
 And from each other catch the circling ray : 
 Here oft the peasant, with inquiring face, 
 Bewilder'd trudges on from place to place ; 
 He dwells on every sign with stupid gaze, 
 Enters the narrow alley's doubtful maze, 
 Tries every winding court and street in vain, 
 And doubles o'er his weary steps again." GAT'S Trivia, book iL 
 
 The seven streets were Great and Little Earl, Great and Little White Lion, Great 
 
 * A Middlesex magistrate said, in 1817 : " In the early part of my life (I remember almost the time 
 which Hogarth has pictured) every house in St. Giles's, whatever else they sold, sold gin ; every chand- 
 ler's shop sold gin : the situation of the people was dreadful."
 
 378 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and Little St. Andrew's, and Queen ; though the dial-stone had but six faces, two of the 
 streets opening into one angle. The column and dials were removed in June, 1773, to 
 search for a treasure said to be concealed beneath the base : they were never replaced, 
 but in 1822 were purchased of a stone-mason, and the column was surmounted with a 
 ducal coronet, and set up on Weybridge Green as a memorial to the Duchess of 
 York, who died at Oatlands in 1820. The dial is now a stepping-stone at the adjoin- 
 ing Ship Inn. 
 
 "Everybody whose affairs lead him to be constantly running about London knows the dirty 
 
 labyrinth of Seven Dials ; indeed, we might rather say everybody does not know it, for it takes a long 
 
 apprenticeship in pavement-polishing to become acquainted with its bearings and intricacies. The 
 
 respective gin-shops at its corners arc the only guides. In other wildernesses of natural objects, instead 
 
 of bricks and mortar, the sun and stars would serve to indicate points of the compass, but in Seven 
 
 Dials the sun and the stars are seldom visible. A heavy tarpaulin of fog, and smoke, and reeking odours, 
 
 covers the entire district, shutting out the heavens by a murky medium, under which increases and 
 
 multiplies the most unlovely race of the mammoth metropolis. They never get a lung-full of good 
 
 V air. The only innocuous atmosphere they breathe is that which sometimes surges down over the roofs 
 
 |Q> J of the many-peopled houses from the adjacent brewery, and even that is artificial." Albert Smith. 
 
 Long Acre, the Seven Dials, and Soho, were Cock and Pie Fields, the resort of the idle 
 and dissolute, until, temp. William III., Mr. Neale built upon the ground. Great Wild- 
 street is named from the mansion here of the Welds, the Dorset Roman Catholic family ; 
 Bainbridge and Buckeridge streets, from their owners, men of wealth, temp. Charles II. ; 
 and Dyott-street (now George-street), from Sir Thomas Dyott, who died in the same 
 reign, devising the property, since Dyott and other streets, upon the condition that it 
 should be appropriated to the same style of building, and the same description of in- 
 habitants that so long kept possession of it. Out of these very streets was formed the 
 Bookery, removed for New Oxford-street. Here the Irish first colonized London, in the 
 reign of Queen Elizabeth ; hence St. Giles's has been called Little Dublin ; and iu 
 1637 cellars are first mentioned in the parish-books as places of residence.. 
 
 On Sept. 27, 1841, died, aged 70, in the house in which he was born, Mr. Robert Smith, 12, Great St. 
 Andrew-street, Seven Dials, a smith, possessed of 400,000 in funded, freehold, and leasehold property : 
 he built between 150 and 200 houses in the Hampstead-road. 
 
 Monmouth (now Dudley) street, said to be named after the unfortunate Duke (who 
 had a mansion on the site of Bateman's-buildings, Soho-square), was long noted for its sign- 
 board painters ; its dealers in amateur theatrical properties, singing-birds, old clothes, 
 and second-hand boots and shoes; but the "laced and embroidered coats in Mon- 
 mouth-street," mentioned by Lady Mary Wortley Montague, have become exchanged 
 for the sombre suits of our fashion. Here also were public-houses noted for fancy-dog 
 shows. Whole families and schools lived in the cellars. In 1797, many horse-shoes 
 nailed to the thresholds to hinder the power of witches, were seen in Monmouth-street ; 
 in 1813, Sir Henry Ellis counted seventeen horse-shoes ; in 1841 there were six ; in 
 1852, eleven. Jews preponderate in this street, Irish abounding most in the lanes 
 and courts. 
 
 The modern St. Giles's is bounded north by the brewery in Bainbridge-street; 
 south by the brewery in Castle-street ; and extends from Crown-street on the west 
 to Drury-lane on the east. The literature of St. Giles's has long fixed its abode 
 in the Seven Dials ; and in Great White Lion-street, Mrs. Pilkington exhibited in her 
 lodging window, " Letters written here." Printing-presses, booksellers, stationers, 
 and circulating-libraries abounded here ; Pitts and Catnach being the great ballad- 
 printers. (See BALLAD-SINGING, p. 10.) One of their authors confessed to Mr. 
 Henry Mayhew 
 
 " The little knowledge I have, I have picked up bit by bit, so that I hardly know how I have come 
 by it. I certainly knew my letters before I left home, and I have got the rest off the dead walls and out 
 of the ballads and papers 1 have been selling. I write most of the Newgate ballads now for the printers 
 in the Dials, and, indeed, anything that turns up. I get a shilling for a ' Copy of verses written by the 
 wretched culprit the night previous to his execution.' I wrote Courvoisier's sorrowful lamentation : I 
 called it ' A Woice from the Gaol.' 1 wrote a pathetic ballad on the respite of Annette Meyers. I did 
 the helegy, too, on Rush's execution : it was supposed, like the rest, to be written by the culprit himself, 
 and was particularly penitent. I didn't write that to order I knew they would want a copy of verses 
 from the culprit. The publisher read it over, and said, ' That's the thing for the street public.' 1 only 
 got a shilling for Rush. Indeed, they are all the same price, no matter how popular they may be. I 
 wrote the life of Manning in verse. Besides these, I have written the laii-eat of Calcraft the Hangman 
 on the decline of his trade, and many political songs." Morning Chronicle. 
 
 " The Bookery" was a triangular space bounded by Bainbridge, George, and High
 
 ST. GILES'S. 379 
 
 streets : it was one dense mass of houses, through which curved narrow tortuous lanes, 
 from which again diverged close courts one great mass, as if the houses had originally 
 been one block of stone, eaten by slugs into numberless small chambers and connecting 
 passages. The lanes were thronged with loiterers ; and stagnant gutters, and piles of 
 garbage and filth infested the air. In the windows, wisps of straw, old hats, and lumps 
 of bed -tick or brown paper, alternated with shivered panes of broken glass ; the walls 
 were the colour of bleached soot, and doors fell from their binges and worm-eaten 
 posts. Many of the windows announced, " Lodgings at 3d. a night," where the wild 
 wanderers from town to town held their nightly revels. With such scenes the public 
 were familiarized by Pierce Egan's Life in London (1820), upon our minor metropolitan V ' 
 stages, where they excited as much curiosity as a romance of savage life. The Rookery 
 has, however, almost entirely disappeared ; and in its place stands a block of " Model 
 Houses for Families," with perfect ventilation and drainage, and rents lower than the 
 average paid for the airless, dark, and fetid rooms of the old Rookery. Elsewhere, 
 lanes and alleys of squalid tenements have disappeared, and their site is now occupied by 
 the embellished lines of New Oxford-street. (See Rookeries of London, 1850.) 
 
 " The degraded condition of the Seven Mais (says a Report of 1848) is notorious vagrants, thieves, 
 sharpers, scavengers, basket-women, charwomen, army-seamstresses, and prostitutes, compose its mass : 
 infidels, Chartists, Socialists, and blasphemers exist there as in head-quarters. In addition to the street 
 traffic on the Sabbath, there are 150 shops then open in the streets. Lodging-houses of the lowest and 
 dirtiest description afford temporary shelter to the vagrant and the criminal. In the very heart of this 
 debased and debasing locality is situated a Ragged School ; its entrance-door in the extreme angle of 
 an irregular, three-cornered yard so uninviting that few respectable persons have courage to venture 
 through it." The flagrant evil cannot be more formidably met ; and the moral regeneration of the 
 district is thus rapidly progressing. 
 
 We rarely pass St. Giles's Church without reflecting upon the great changes which 
 have come over this locality within the last twenty years, by the sweeping away of the 
 greater part of that festering spot of criminal London, known as St. Giles's. And 
 when we look at the narrow gorge opposite the church, and remember that through it 
 formerly poured the rabble rout with the Tyburn cart, which halted hereabout, for the 
 condemned criminals to drink a bowl of ale, we say, with such a stream of pollution 
 how could St. Giles's be otherwise than a nestling-place of crime and wretchedness ? 
 It could once show its pound, its cage, its round-house and watch-house,Uts stocks, and (-7 
 its whipping- post, and at one time its gallows. We have parted with all these terrors ; 
 and built here churches and chapels, schools, and reformatory institutions of every class. 
 
 Dr. Buchanan, medical officer of Health for the St. Giles* district, tracing its history from the dedica- 
 tion of a leper hospital to St. Giles in the twelfth century, shows that the district has always presented 
 points of interest to the students of hygienic science. From the time of the earliest census an excess in 
 the mortality of St. Giles's has been steadily conspicuous. The reason of this excess is mainly to be 
 attributed to the extreme density of the population, which has from one cause and another been greater 
 here than elsewhere since the days of Elizabeth. It was in St. Giles's that the Great Plague of 1665 
 first broke out, and two-thirds of the poorer inhabitants were destroyed in the year. The district 
 declined from comparative opulence in the seventeenth century to the point of its lowest debasement, 
 delineated by Hogarth and Fielding ; thence again increasing in prosperity with the growth of Blooms- 
 bury. In spite, however, of this new association, the entire district has maintained its evil pre-eminence 
 on the death-registers down to the year 1857. In the most crowded localities the rate of mortality was 
 uniformly the highest. Measures have been adopted hi St. Giles's to remedy this fatal condition of 
 " overcrowding." Among the results which have already followed the use of sanitary measures are : 
 from mere drainage improvements, the deaths from fevers and other zymotic diseases, in Dudley-street, 
 had fallen in 1858 to exactly one-half the number in 1857. In the whole district there were, in one year, 
 lewer deaths than the average by 120, although the year was much less healthful than its predecessor 
 to the metropolis at large. The evils of overcrowding have been much abated by these clearances. 
 
 In the southern district of St. Giles's there were on the night before the Census of 1861 was taken, 21 
 houses, not one of which had less than ten families sleeping in it, without counting single men and women 
 at all. In a lodging-house in the same district of that parish 81 persons passed the night. 
 
 In 1831, there were, opposite each other, in George-street, St. Giles's, two barbers' shops, whose weekly 
 customers averaged 3000 ; and in one of the shops was a man who frequently on a Sunday mowed 500 
 chins, the majority being Irish labourers with beards of a week's growth. 
 
 The old map of St. Giles's and St. George's made in 1815, by Mr. Mawley, owing 
 to the great alterations in every direction since that time, having been rendered entirely 
 useless, has been re-drawn by Mr. George J. J. Mair, and handed over to the Vestry. 
 A plan of each property is shown, and at a glance is distinguished from the adjoining 
 properties by an arrangement of cross hatching ; a book of reference gives a further 
 description. The parishes contain 245 acres (38 of which are open ground in squares), 
 and 4701 dwelling- houses.
 
 380 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 GILTSPUR-STREET 
 
 WAS in Stovv's time also called Knight-riders'-street, " of the knights and others 
 riding that way into Smithfield." The portion beyond the Compter prison was 
 originally Pie-corner, " noted chiefly for cooks' shops and pigs drest there during Bar- 
 tholomew Fair." (Strype.) Here the Great Fire of London ended ; to commemorate 
 which, was erected against a public-house (The Fortune of War) in Pie-corner, a 
 carved wooden figure of a boy upon a bracket, his arms folded upon his breast, and the 
 following inscription written from under the chin downward : " This boy is in memory 
 put up for the late Fire of London, occasioned by the sin of gluttony, 1666." This is 
 no longer legible. The whole is engraved by J. T. Smith, and in Lester's Illustra- 
 tions, 1818. The houses that escaped the Fire on this spot were taken down in 1809. 
 On the west side of Giltspur-street is Cock-lane, the scene of " the Cock-lane ghost" 
 imposture in 1762 : " the house is still standing, and the back room, where ' scratching 
 Fanny' lay surrounded by princes and peers, is converted into a gas-meter manufactory." 
 (Notes and Queries, No. 16.) An account of the detection of the imposture was 
 printed by Dr. Johnson ; a pamphlet describing the whole affair was written by Gold- 
 smith, and is reprinted in Cunningham's edition of Goldsmith's Works. Churchill, in 
 his poem, The Ghost, satirized the hoax, and caricatured Johnson as a believer in it ; 
 which Boswell has disproved. 
 
 GOG AND MAGOG. 
 
 " fPHE two Giants in Guildhall" are supposed to have been originally made for 
 -L carrying about in pageants, a custom not peculiar to London ; for " the going of 
 the giants at Midsummer" occurs among the ancient customs of Chester, before 1599. 
 Puttenharn (1 589) speaks of " Midsummer pageants in London, where, to make the 
 people wonder, are set forth great and uglie gyants, marching as if they were alive," 
 &c. Again, "one of the gyants' stilts" that stalks before my Lord Mayor's Pageants 
 occurs in the old play of the Dutch Courtezan. (Marston's Works, 1633.) Bishop 
 Hall, in his Satires, compares an angry poet to 
 
 " The crab-tree porter of the Guildhall, 
 While he his frightful Beetle elevates." 
 
 In 1415, when Henry V. entered London by Southwark, a male and female giant 
 stood at the entrance of London Bridge; in 1432, here a "mighty giant" awaited 
 Henry VI.; in 1554, at the entry of Philip and Mary, "Corinseus and Gog-magog" 
 stood upon London Bridge ; and when Elizabeth passed through the City the day 
 before her coronation (Jan. 12, 1558), these two giants were placed at Temple Bar. 
 (F. W. Fairholt, F.S.A.) Jordan, in describing the Lord Mayor's Pageant for 1672, 
 notices as exceeding rarities " two extreme great giants, at least 15 feet high, that do 
 sit and are drawn by horses in two several chariots, talking and taking tobacco as they 
 ride along, to the great admiration and delight of all spectators." 
 
 Ned Ward describes the Guildhall giants in his London Spy, 1699; and among the 
 fireworks upon the Thames, at the coronation of James II. and his queen, April 24, 
 1685, " were placed the statues of the two giants of Guildhall." Bragg, in his Ob- 
 server, Dec. 25, 1706, tells us that when the colours taken at Ramilies were put up in 
 Guildhall, " the very giants stared with all the eyes they had, and smiled as well as 
 they could." (Malcolm.) 
 
 " Before the present giants inhabited Guildhall, there were two giants made only of wicker-work and 
 pasteboard, put together with great art and ingenuity ; and those two terrible giants had the honour 
 to grace my Lord Mayor's Show, being carried in great triumph in the time of the pageants ; and when 
 that eminent annual service was over, remounted their old stations in Guildhall till by reason of their 
 very great age, old Time, with the help of a number of City rats and mice, had eaten up all their entrails. 
 The dissolution of the two old weak and feeble giants gave birth to the two present substantial and 
 majestic giants ; who, by order, and at the City charge, were formed and fashioned," by Captain Kit-hard 
 
 lished within Guildhall, when shops were permitted there. This work also relates that " the fitst 
 honour which the two ancient wicker-work giants were promoted to in the City, was at the Restoration 
 of King Charles II., when, with great pomp and majesty, they graced a triumphal arch at the end of
 
 GOODMAN'S FIELDS-GREY FBIAES. 381 
 
 King-street, in Chnapside." This was before the Great Fire, which the City Giants escaped, till their 
 infirmities and the "City rats" rendered it necessary to supersede them ; and the City accounts in the 
 Chamberlain's Office contain a payment of 701. to Saunders, the carver, in 1707. 
 
 The " Gigantick History" supposes the Guildhall giants to represent Corina;us and 
 Gog-magog, in Geoftry of Monmouth's Chronicle, in Milton's Early History of Britain, 
 and thus in a broadsheet of 1G60 : 
 
 "And such stout Corirueus was, from whom 
 Cornwall's first honour, and her name doth come, 
 For though he showeth not so great nor tall, 
 In his dimensions set forth at Ouildhtill, 
 Know 'tis a poet, only a poet can define 
 A gyaut's posture in a gyant's line. 
 
 And thus attended by his direful dog, 
 The gyant was (God bless us) Gogmagog." 
 
 British Bibliogr. iv. p. 227. 
 
 "Each of these giants," says Archdeacon Nares (Glossary), "measures upwards of 
 14 feet in height ; the young one is believed to be Corinaeus and the old one Gog- 
 magog," whence " Gog and Magog." 
 
 The present costumes of the giants are in rococo taste, as follow : 
 
 GOG. Body-armour a la Romaine, with a red scarf across the shoulder : plumed helmet, with the 
 City Dragon lor a crest; a sword by his side, and in his hands a halbert, and a shield ensigned with a 
 spread eagle. 
 
 31 A GOG. Body-armour and scarf as Gog; sword at side, bow and arrows over his shoulder, and in 
 his hand a " morning-star ;" his hair long and flowing, and encircled with a " couronne d'honneur." 
 
 In 1815, the Giants were removed from the north side of the Hall, when Mr. Hone 
 examined them, and found them to be " made of wood, and hollow within ; and from 
 the method of joining and gluing the interior, are evidently of late construction ; but 
 they are too substantially built for the purpose of being either carried or drawn, or 
 any way exhibited in a pageant." (Hone, on Ancient Mysteries.) In 1837, the 
 dresses of the giants were renewed, thoir armour polished, &c. This year also, copies 
 of the giants, 14 feet high, were introduced in the Lord Mayor's show : each walked 
 by means of a man within side, who turned the giant's face, which was level with the 
 first-floor windows. 
 
 GOODMAN'S FIELDS 
 
 ARE described by Stow to have been, in his time, a farm belonging to the Abbey of 
 the Nuns of St. Clare, called the Minories ; " at the which farm (says Stow) I myself, 
 in my youth, have fetched many a halfpennyworth of milk, and never had less than three 
 ale pints for a halfpenny in the summer, nor less than one ale quart for a halfpenny in the 
 winter, always hot from the kine, as the same was milked and strained." One Trolop, 
 and afterwards Goodman were the farmers ; and next Goodman's son, who let out the 
 ground first for grazing of horses, and then for garden-plots, Strype (1720) describes 
 the Fields covered with Pescod or Prescot, Ayliffe, Leman, and Maunsell streets, the 
 initials of which names make the word palm ; these streets are mostly inhabited by 
 thriving Jews. Strype also mentions tenters for cloth-workers, and a roadway out of 
 Whitechapel into Well-close. In digging the foundations for houses about 1678, were 
 found a vast number of Roman funereal urns, some with ashes of bones in them, 
 denoting Goodman's Fields to have been originally a Roman burying-place. 
 
 Goodman's-stile, Goodman's-gardens, and Rosemary-lane, denote this rural district. 
 On the site of Leman-street was the New Wells Spa, now denoted by Well-yard. 
 (See THEATBES : Goodman's Fields.) 
 
 GREY FRIARS. 
 
 F1224, four of the Friars Minors, or Grey Friars, arrived in London from Italy, 
 and were first entertained in the house of the Friars Preachers, or Dominicans. 
 Afterwards, they hired a house in Cornhill, of John Travers, then sheriff, where they 
 made some small cells, and continued until the following summer ; when the devotion 
 of the citizens enabled the Friars to purchase the site of their future residence near 
 Newgate. Their first and principal benefactor was John Iwyn, citizen and mercer,
 
 382 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 who gave them some land and houses in the parish of St. Nicholas-in-the-Shambles, by 
 deed 9th Henry III. Upon this they erected their original building. The first chapel, 
 which became the choir of the church, was built at the cost of Sir William Joyner, 
 mayor of London in 1239 ; the nave was added by Sir Henry Waleys, mayor during 
 several years of the reign of Edward I. ; the chapter-house by Walter the potter, 
 citizen and alderman (sheriff in 1270 and 1273), who also presented all the brazen pots 
 for the kitchen, infirmary, &c. : the dormitory was erected by Sir Gregory de Rokes- 
 ley, mayor from 1275 to 1282 ; the refectory by Bartholomew de Castro, another 
 citizen ; the infirmary by Peter de Helyland ; and the studies by Bonde, king of the 
 heralds. The convent was principally supplied with water by William, called from his 
 trade the Taylor, and who served King Henry III. in that capacity.* 
 
 A more magnificent church was commenced in 1301, and completed 1327 : first, the 
 choir was rebuilt, chiefly at the cost of Margaret of France, the second wife of King 
 Edward I., who assigned it for her place of interment ; and the nave was added from 
 the benefactions of John of Brittany, Earl of Richmond, and his niece Mary, Countess 
 of Pembroke : it was 300 feet long, 89 feet wide, and 64 feet high ; all the columns 
 and the pavement were of marble. In 1421, was added the library, " furnished with 
 desks, settles, and wainscoting or ceiling," by Sir Richard Whittington, the celebrated 
 mayor in the reign of Henry V. 
 
 On St. George's Day, 1502, the Grey Friars relinquished the " London russet," which 
 they had for some time worn, and resumed the undyed white-grey, which had been 
 their original habit. On the feast of Saint Francis, July 16, 1508, the mayor and 
 aldermen were received with grand procession as founders, which custom continued 
 long after; but not until 1522 did the convent provide a feast for the corporation on 
 that anniversary. In 1524, King Henry and Cardinal Wolsey personally visited the 
 house. In 1528, in the case of a prisoner who had broken away from the sessions at 
 Newgate, the convent asserted its right of Sanctuary, a privilege that could scarcely 
 be often put in requisition, as the much-frequented Sanctuary of St. Martin-le-Grand 
 was in the immediate vicinity. The Franciscans seem to have passively acquiesced in 
 the course of events : for, November 12, 1539, their warden, and twenty-five of his 
 brethren, signed and sealed their deed of surrender to the king, being convinced " that 
 the perfeccion of Christian livyng dothe not consiste in doine ceremonyes, wering of a 
 grey coatte, disgeasing our selffes after straunge fassions, dokynges, nodyngs, and 
 bekynges, in gurding our sehTes wythe a gurdle full of knots, and other like papisticall 
 ceremonyes," &c. 
 
 After the surrender, the house of the Grey Friars was not given up to immediate 
 destruction ; but remained unoccupied in the king's hands, until 1544, when, with the 
 houses of the late Austin and Black Friars, it became a receptacle for the merchandize 
 captured at sea from the French ; every part of the Grey Friars Church being filled 
 with wine : it was not, however, dismantled ; for in 1546 the " partitions" or screens 
 remained; the altars, pictures, images, and pulpit; the monuments and grave-stones; 
 the candlesticks, organs, and desks. Subsequently, by the king's gift, the church of 
 the Grey Friars was to become the parish church of " Christ's Church within New- 
 gate ;" but the king dying in the same year and month, the altars, stalls, &c., were 
 removed, and the church reduced in length, the nave being rented to a schoolmaster 
 for 10s. per annum. All the tombs and grave-stones were sold for about 51. ; and 
 Weever states there to have been buried in the church four queens, f four duchesses, 
 four countesses, one duke, two earls, eight barons, and some thirty-five knights ; in all, 
 663 persons of quality : the catalogue of the monuments is preserved, and is a very 
 valuable genealogical record. 
 
 These details are abridged principally from Mr. Nichols's Preface to the Chronicle 
 
 * In the chapter of the Register, the main channel or pipe is traced under Newgate, through the 
 rivulet at Holboni Bridge, up Leather-lane (Liworne-lane), and so to the Conduit-heads in the fields. 
 
 t The Queens were the foundress of the church, Margaret, consort of Edward L; Isabella, consort 
 of Edward II. ; Joan, Queen of Scots, daughter of Edward 11.; and Isabella, Queen of Man. Besides 
 these, the^church had received the heart of a fifth Queen, Alianor, consort of Henry III.; and also the 
 heart of King Edward II., deposited under the breast of his queen's effigy. The catalogue is not, how- 
 ever, complete; for, during some excavafions on the site about 1834, were found two ancient inscribed 
 grave-stones not in the Register: they commemorate a monk of Ely, and a supposed Italian merchant, 
 and are preserved in the burial-ground of Christchurch.
 
 GRUB-STREET. 383 
 
 of the Grey Friars of London, printed for the Camden Society (1852), from the 
 register-book of the Fraternity. The history of the Grey Friars Convent next merges 
 into that of the establishment of Christ's Hospital, which Mr. Nichols refers to Henry's 
 grant of the Grey Friars' House to the City, aided by their subscriptions, and not to 
 Edward VI., who merely recognised the hospital which the citizens themselves had set 
 on foot. 
 
 "Moreover, Christ's Hospital was not founded as a school; its object was to rescue young children 
 from the streets, to shelter, feed, and clothe, and lastly, to educate them in short, to do exactly what 
 in later times has been done by each individual parish for the orphan and destitute offspring of the 
 poor." Nichols. 
 
 The great picture in the hall of Christ's Hospital is commonly referred to as contemporary evidence 
 of King Edward's share in the foundation. " Tljis pi ture is usually attributed to Holbein, but in error. 
 It is an amplification of Hol'oi-in's picture of the same subject which is at Bridewell Hospital. That 
 picture contain? only eleven figures, including the painter himself; the picture at Christ's Hospital has 
 ninery or more, and not only is it very inferior as a work of art, but obviously of posterior date in point 
 of costume." Mr. Nichols adds : ''the picture at Christ's Hospital is derived from Holbein's, so far as 
 the principal figures go : my own imprcssson is that it is of the period of James I. or Charles I." 
 
 Some of the buildings of the ancient convent, including the fratry and refectory, 
 were standing in the early part of the present century. The walls and windows of 
 Whittington's library were to be traced in a mutilated state on the north side of the 
 cloisters. Even now, the southern walk of the friars' cloisters remains, and its pointed 
 arches and buttresses may be seen from the exterior. The western walk of the clois- 
 ters was under the Great Hall, which was pulled down in 1827, as was Whittington's 
 library about the same time. The shield of Whittington, with a quatrefoil, was in- 
 serted in various parts of this building ; and a stone so carved has been preserved in 
 the museum of Mr. E. B. Price, F.S.A., and is etched at the end of Mr. Nichols's 
 Preface to the Chronicle. (See CHRIST'S HOSPITAL, pp. 95-101.) 
 
 GRUB-STREET, 
 
 /^IRIPPLEGATE, is now called Milton-street, "not after the great poet, as some 
 VJ persons have asserted, but from a respectable builder so called, who has taken the 
 whole street on a repairing lease." Such was the statement of Mr. Elrnes, in 1830, in 
 his Topographical Dictionary ; but it is contradicted by the editor of Notes and 
 Queries (2nd S. ix.), who asserts, upon the authority of " a gentleman who was present 
 at the meeting when the nomenclature was discussed, that it was named after the great 
 poet, from his having resided in the locality." Grnb-street was originally tenanted by 
 bowyers, fletchers, makers of bow-strings, and of everything relating to archery. It is 
 the last street shown in Aggas's map ; all beyond, as far as Bishopsgale-street Without, 
 being gardens, fields, or morass. After the Great Fire, the Goldsmiths' Company met 
 in Grub-street, temporarily, in the house of Sir Thomas Allen, grocer, and Lord Mayor in 
 1659. Here, before the discovery of printing, lived the text-writers, who wrote all 
 sorts of books then in use, namely, A. B. C. with the Paternoster, Ave, Crede, Grace, 
 &c., and retailed by stationers at the corner of streets. In Grub-street lived John 
 Foxe, the martyrologist. 
 
 " Many letters in the Harleian collection illustrate the influence of Foxe at this time. They are 
 addressed to him in Grub-street, and must, therefore, though no date appears on them, have been written 
 after 1572. A letter from Foxe to one of his neighbours, who had so built his house as to darken Foxe's 
 windows, is curious as a specimen of religious expostulation, for an injury which possibly he could not 
 afford to remedy by law." Mr. Canon Townsend's L'fe of John Foxe, edit. 1641, p. 194. 
 
 It appears, however, very doubtful when Foxe went to Grub-street, aud how long 
 he resided there. He did not write there his Book of Martyrs, published in 1563, 
 and the second edition in 1570. Here resided honest John Speed, the tailor and his- 
 torian, the father of twelve sons and six daughters; there, too, lived Master Richard 
 Smith, whose amusing Obituary has been edited by Sir Henry Ellis for the Camden 
 Society "A person," says Antony Wood, "infinitely curious in, and inquisitive after 
 books." From this renowned and philosophic spot, celebrated as the Lyceum of the 
 Academic Grove, issued many of the earliest of our English lyrics, and most of our 
 miniature histories, and the flying sheets and volatile pages dispersed by such charac- 
 ters as Shakspeare's Autolycus ; and the Gruhean sages first published Jack the Giant 
 Killer, Reynard the Fox, The Wise Men of Gotham, Tom Hickathrift, and a 
 hundred others.
 
 384 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Nor must we forget Henry Welby, Esq., "the Grub-street Hermit," who lived here 
 forty-four years, during which he was only seen by his maid-servant, who died Oct. 23, 
 1636 ; and Welby, in six days after, aged 84 : he owned a large estate in Lincolnshire, 
 but betook himself to this seclusion in misanthropic resentment of an attempt made 
 upon his life by a younger brother. In the old print of the Hermit, we see in tlie 
 distance boys flying kites in the fields adjoining his house. His diet was bread, water, 
 gruel, milk, and vegetables ; and now and then the yolk of an egg. He passed his 
 days in most exemplary charity and piety. There exists a rare quarto Tract, entitled 
 The Phoenix of these late Times, showing " the first occasion and reasons " of Welby's 
 seclusion, with Epitaphs and Elegies (the latter occupying several pages), by Shakerlcy 
 Marmion, John Taylor, the Water-poet; Thomas Heywoocl, Thomas Brewer, &c., 
 1637. It has a full length portrait, by W. Marshall, of Welby : the copy of this Tract 
 in Sir Mark Sykes's library, sold for 51. 5s. 
 
 In Grub-street, Dec. 9, 1695, one Stockden, a victualler, was murdered by fonr men, three of whom 
 were revealed in three successive dreams to the victualler's widow, and were tried, condemned, and 
 hanged; the narrative attested and published "by the Curate of Cripplegate !" 
 
 During the Commonwealth era a larger number than usual of seditious and libellous 
 pamphlets and papers were surreptitiously printed. The authors of these were, for 
 the most part, men whose indigent circumstances compelled them to live in the most 
 obscure part of the town. Grub-street, then abounding with mean old houses let f.ut 
 in lodgings, afforded a fitting retreat for persons of this description. The offensive 
 term Grub-street is thought to have been first applied to the writings of John Fox, 
 the martyrologist, who, as we have seen, lived in Grub-street. However, there are 
 various other conjectures, which it may be interesting to notice. The inquiry has been 
 cleverly annotated by Mr. Henry Campkin, F.S.A. 
 
 Possibly, from Grub-street being the booksellers' suburb of Aldersgate and Little 
 Britain it became the abode of small authors. In Gos well -street, to this day, several 
 old or second-hand booksellers keep shop. Arbuthnot speaks of " the meridian of 
 Grub-street ;" and Gay of " Grub-street lays." In the Tatler, No. 41, the authors 
 are mentioned as faithful historians of an exercise at arms of the Artillery Company. 
 In the Spectator, No. 184, "one of the most eminent pens in Grub-street is employed 
 in writing the dream of the miraculous sleeper," Nicholas Hart ; and the orators of 
 Grub-street dealt very much in plagues. (Spectator, 150.) There was also a Grub-street 
 Journal ; and Swift wrote a Grub-street Elegy on the pretended death of Partridge, 
 the almanack-maker, and Advice to the Grub-street Versifiers. The halfpenny news- 
 paper-stamp duty of 1712, however, occasioned " the fall of the leaf," and utter ruin 
 among Grub-street authors. 
 
 " Do you know that all Grub-street is dead and gone last week? No more ghosts or murders now 
 for love or money." Swift to Stella, July 9, 1712, et passim. 
 
 The Memoirs of the Grab-street Society were commenced Jan. 8, 1730 (the year before the Gentle- 
 man's Magazine), and were published weekly until the close of 1737. The avowed objects of the work 
 were to counteract the original Grubeans, who " made themselves most remarkably infamous for want 
 of integrity, by wilfully publishing what they knew to be false :" and to repress "the exorbitances of 
 Authors, Printers, Booksellers, and Publishers." The Society met once a week at the Peerasus, in Grub- 
 street; and the principals of the staff were Dr. John Martin and Dr. Richard Russel* (Bavin* and 
 Mascius), the latter being secretary until 1735. The work was then conducted by a committee, but was 
 dropped in 1737, after a struggle of six years, eleven months, and two weeks : it was revived as the 
 Literary Courier of Grub-street, of which only a few numbers were printed. 
 
 In these Memoirs, most of the personages of the Dunciad are unsparingly satirized, and the pro- 
 ductions of Kusden, Cibber, Concanen, Curll, Dennis, Henley, Ralph, Arnall, Theobald, Welstcd, &c., 
 are treated with (jreat severity. The Memoirs " meeting with encouragement," says Sir John Hawkins, 
 " Cave projected an improvement thereon in a pamphlet of his own;" and in the following year ap- 
 peared the Gentleman's Magazine. 
 
 Grub-street thus figures in the Dunciad : 
 
 " Not with less glory mighty Dulness crown'd, 
 Shall take through Grub-street her triumphant round." 
 
 " Pope's arrows are so shirp, and his slaughter so wholesale, that the reader's sympathies are often 
 enlisted on the side of the devoted inhabitants of Grub-street. He it was who brought the notion of a 
 vile Grub-street before the minds of the general public; he it was who created such associations as 
 author and rags author and dirt author and gin. The occupation of authorship became ignoble 
 through his graphic description of misery, and the literary profession was for a long time destroyed." 
 W. M. Thackeray. 
 
 * Dr. Kussel subsequently settled at BrightheTmstone, and wrote a Treatise on Sea-Water, advocat- 
 ing the practice of sea-bathing, which laid the foundation of the unexampled prosperity of Brighton.
 
 GRUB-STREET. 385 
 
 In his notes to the Dunciad, Bishop Warburton describes a libeller as " nothing but 
 a Grub-street critic run to seed." Dr. Johnson's friend, John Hoole,* received his 
 early instruction in Grub-street, from his uncle " the metaphysical tailor," who used to 
 draw squares and triangles on his shopboard. (Boswell's Johnson, vol. iv.) 
 
 Grub-street was formerly " much inhabited by writers of small histories, dictionaries, 
 and temporary poems : whence any mean production is called Grub-street." (Johnson's 
 Dictionary.') The Doctor himself " was but a Grub-street man, paid by the sheet, 
 when Goldsmith entered Grub-street, periodical writer and reviewer." (Forster's Life 
 of Goldsmith, p. 73.) 
 
 " Grub-street performances " had long been applied to " bad matter expressed in a 
 bad manner, false confused histories, low creeping poetry, and grovelling prose," 
 whether written in the Court or in the City, or elsewhere. Hence " a Grub-street 
 author " became a term of common reproach, and we remember it in frequent use ; this 
 however, has passed away with the change in the social position of men of letters, who 
 no longer resemble the literary hacks of the reign of George II. : but literature takes 
 rank with other learned professions ; and those authors who neglect it as a means of 
 subsistence are, in a twofold sense, foremost in their abuse of it. 
 
 However, Grub-street was not always tenanted exclusively by low pretenders to 
 learning ; for we read that James Whitelocke (Justice of the King's Bench), who was a 
 Merchant-tailors' boy, and won honour at Oxford, went through a course of Hebrew 
 with a professor of that ancient tongue, one Hopkinson, who lived in Grub-street 
 "an obscure and simple man for worldly affayres, but expert in all the left-hand tongs/' 
 " Great learned men," we are told, came to consult Hopkinson in these languages, and 
 " among them no less a person than Lancelot Andrews." (See notice of Whitelocke's 
 Liber famelicus, edited by Bruce ; Atheneeum, No. 1612.) 
 
 Grub-street, now Milton-street, is noted for its great number of alleys, courts, and 
 backways, and old inn-yards : in Hanover-court was a house, temp. Charles I., tradi- 
 tionally the residence of General Monk. Opposite Hanover-conrt is a large building, 
 once the City Chapel ; in 1831 opened as a theatre, but with poor success. It next 
 became the City Baths ; facing which, in odd contiguity, were the City Soap Works, 
 established in 1712; the premises were burnt down in August, 1855, but have been rebuilt. 
 
 In one of the columns of Town and Table Talk, with which Mr. Peter Cunningham, 
 in years past, used to regale the readers of the Illustrated London News, we find, 
 Jan. 27, 1855, the following piquant parallel of Grub-street with our day : 
 
 " This week has produced a remarkable proof that our Newgate Last Dying Words and Confession 
 Poetry has not improved, or altered, indeed, in any way, since the times of Dick Turpin and Governor 
 Wall. We have before us, while we write, the penny broadside which Grub-street has given us on the 
 execution of Barthe'le'my, on Monday last. We have the same artless way of telling a story, with the 
 same rough lines, and still rougher rhymes, common to the Catnach school of Old Bailey poetry. What 
 is still more remarkable, the very cuts are the identical blocks of bygone times. The view of the 
 dangling murderer, of St. Sepulchre's Church, and Newgate itself, is one that has done like duty 
 on many other hanging occasions. The female costume of the cut is that in vogue long before (to 
 use Mr. Thackeray's expression) Plancus was consul. Stranger still, the cut which represents the 
 murderer shooting Mr. Moore, is the actual ballad-block of Bellingham shooting Mr. Perceval in the 
 lobby of the House of Commons ! We may yet see it reproduced on an occasion of the same kind. The 
 identical wood-cut of Tarlton, the famous clown, who drew tears of delight from the eyes of Queen 
 Elizabeth, was in use in Grub-street between 1580 and 1820, or nearly two centuries and a half." 
 
 One of the most noted Grub-street traffickers was Curll, for whom the notorious Mrs. 
 Thomas (Corinna of the Dunciad) got up the absurd story of young Jeffreys and the 
 funeral of the poet Dryden, the groundlessness of which was fully exposed by Malone 
 some sixty years since ; and Sir Walter Scott alludes to it in Life of Dryden as " a 
 memorable romance." It formed one of Curll's " Grub-street pamphlets." 
 
 The first use of the term Grub street in its offensive sense, was made by Andrew 
 Marvell, in The Rehearsal Transposed : " He, honest man, was deep gone in Grub- 
 street and polemized divinity." " Oh, these are your Nonconformist tricks ; oh, you 
 have learnt this of the Puritans in Grub-street." " I am told that preparatory to 
 that, they had frequent meetings in the City ; I know not whether in Grub-street, 
 with the divines of the other party." Pope calls its versifiers " the Grub-street Choir." 
 
 * Father of the Rev. Samuel Hoole, who was born in a hackney-coach, which was conveying his 
 mother to Drury-lane Theatre to witness the performance of the tragedy of Timanthes, written by her 
 husband. Mr. Samuel Hoole prayed with Johnson in his last illness : he long kept as memorials the 
 chair in which the Doctor usually sat, and the desk upon which he mostly wrote his BambUr. Mr. Hoole 
 died in March, 1839. 
 

 
 386 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 GUILDHALL (THE). 
 
 AT the north end of King-street, Cheapside, is the "Town-hall" of the City of 
 London, where the principal Corporation business is transacted, and its magnificent 
 hospitality exercised. The first Alderman's Eery or Court-hall was a low and mean 
 building, in the street named therefrom, Aldermanbury, which occurs in a deed of the 
 year 1189 : " the Courts of Maior and Aldermen were held here until the new Guildhall 
 was built. I myself (says Stow) have seen the ruines of the old court-hall in Alder- 
 manbery-streete." The first entry which Mr. Horace Jones, the City architect, was 
 able to find, is in the year 1212, the 14th of John. It is in a roll of the Hustings 
 Court, which was held here. The edifice must have been a very large building, 
 from the number of persons stated to have been present. " This was, undoubtedly, 
 the original Guildhall spoken of by Fabyan, Grafton, and Stow : the old Berry Court, 
 or Hal continued, and the Courts of the Mair and Aldermen were continually holden 
 there. They had an entrance in Aldermanbury. This we will call the first Guildhall." 
 
 The second Guildhall, according to the Corporation records, was built in 1326, the 
 20th Edward II. Part of the crypt of this building exists, though much defaced by 
 fire ; it extends beneath half the present hall, and adjoins the present crypt, being divided 
 by a stout brick wall. We might reasonably infer from this evidence that the second 
 building was a part, or occupied a part, of the present site. In Aggas's map, 15GO, 
 there is a representation of the old entry from Aldermanbury. There was no entry 
 for carriages, or even an opening into Gresham -street, as now. 
 
 We now come to the present, or third Guildhall, " begun to be builded new," says 
 Fabyan, in the year 1411, the 12th of Henry IV., "by Thomas Knoles, then 
 Maior, and by his brethren the Aldermen ; and the same was made of a little cottage 
 and a large great house, as it now standeth." The cost was defrayed by benevolences, 
 fees, fines, and amercements for ten years. The Mayor's Court and Chambers were 
 added, and a stately entrance-porch, " beautified with images of stone." Divers alder- 
 men glazed the windows, as appeared by their arms painted on each. Among the 
 individual contributions was the making and glazing of " two louvers," for which Sir 
 W. Harryot, Mayor, gave 401. The hall was twenty years in building ; the kitchen 
 was built " by procurement" from the companies, of Sir John Shaw, goldsmith, Mayor, 
 knighted on Bosworth Field; the kitchen was first used for dressing Sir John's 
 mayoralty banquet, in 1501 ; and he " was the first that kept his feast there;" " since 
 which time the Mayor's feasts have been yearly kept there, which before time were 
 kept in the Taylors' Hall and the Grocers' Hall." "Nicholas Alwin, grocer, Mayor, 
 1499, deceased 1505, gave by his testament for a hanging of tapestrie to serve for the 
 principal daies in the Guildhall, seventy-three pounds 6*. 8d."- In 161415 was 
 erected a new Council Chamber, and Record-room over. Among the early enter- 
 tainments given in the Guildhall, was that of 1357, when John, King of France, 
 and Edward the Black Prince, were received and entertained most sumptuously by the 
 Mayor and citizens, May 24. Again, in 1419, King Henry V. was entertained by the 
 Corporation at the Guildhall, when, it is reported, the Mayor, Sir Richard Whittington, 
 burnt the bonds for money lent to King Henry, to the value of 60,OOOZ. Here, 1483, 
 June 24, the Duke of Buckingham attended with the Mayor and Sheriffs, by command 
 of Richard Duke of Gloster, and addressing a great multitude of Liverymen assembled 
 in the Common Hall, pointed out to them the bastardy of King Edward V., and 
 urged the superior claim of Richard Plantagenet, as depicted in Shakspeare's 
 Richard III., act iii. scene 5. 
 
 Qlo. Go after, after, Cousin Buckingham, 
 The Mayor towards Guild Hall hies him in all post; 
 There, at the modest vantage of the time, 
 Infer the bastardy of Edward's children : 
 Tell them, how Edward put to death a citizen, 
 Only for saying he would make his son 
 " Heir to the Crown." Meaiiing, indeed, his House, 
 Which, by the sign thereof, was termed so. 
 And again : 
 
 Suck. I go ; and towards three or four o'clock 
 Look for the news that the Guild Hall affords.
 
 GUILDHALL. 387 
 
 1S13. Here took place the trial and condemnation of Anne Askew for heresy, before Bishop Bonner ; 
 she was burnt at the stake, in Smithfield. 1547. Trial of the Earl of Surrey, and his conviction of high 
 treason. 1553, Nov. 13. Trial and condemnation of Lady Jane Grey and her husband. 1551, April 17. 
 Trial and acquittal of Sir Nicholas Throgmorton, for participation in Thomas Wyatt's rebellion against 
 Queen Mary. 1606, March 28. Trial and conviction of the Jesuit Garnet. (Gunpowder Plot.) 1642, 
 Jan. 5. Charles I. attended at a Common Council, and claimed their assistance in apprehending 
 Hampden and other patriots, who had taken shelter in the City to avoid arrest. During the Civil War 
 and the Commonwealth, the Guildhall was the arena of many a patriotic movement. In Pepys's Diary, 
 llth Feb. 1659-60, he records the reception of Gen. Monk at the Guildhall. After the abdication of 
 James II. the Lords Parliament assembled here, and declared for the Prince of Orange. 
 
 In the Great Fire the oak roof was entirely destroyed, and the principal front 
 much injured. "That night (Tuesday Sept. 4, 1666), the sight of Guildhall was a 
 fearfull spectacle, which stood the whole hody of it together in view for several hours 
 together, after the fire bad taken it, without flames (I suppose because the timber was 
 of such solid oake), in a bright shining coale, as if it had been a pallace of gold or a 
 great building of burnished brasse." The roof was an open timber one, springing 
 from the capitals of the clustered columns, which subsequently bore guideron shields with 
 the arms of the twelve Great Companies. After the Fire an additional story was raised 
 to the lofty pitch of the original roof, the ceiling covering this being flat and square 
 panelled : eight circular-headed windows on each side were added. These reparations 
 have been attributed to Sir Christopher Wren. Elmes acknowledges " the modern 
 roof and ceiling of Guildhall" to he Wren's, but "built over it in haste and for imme- 
 diate use, and evidently a temporary covering." (See Wren and his Times, p. 266.) 
 The present mongrel front of Guildhall was erected by Mr. George Dance, the City 
 architect, in 1789. 
 
 The chief approach to the Hall was by a two-storied porch, far in advance of the main 
 building. It had been much altered in the reign of Elizabeth or James I. It had, on 
 each side of the entrance, two ornamented niches, and two figures in other niches, with 
 figures in the upper story. These figures were taken down by Dance in 1789, and they 
 lay in a cellar until Alderman Boydell induced the Corporation, in 1794, to permit 
 them to pass into the hands of Thomas Banks, the eminent sculptor, who held them in 
 great estimation as works of art ; and after his death, in 1809, they were purchased by 
 Mr. Bankes, M.P. These figures have been placed in the screen at the east end of the 
 hall. The crypt beneath is the finest and most extensive now remaining in London. 
 Its height is 13 feet from the ground to the crown of the arches. In 1851 the stone- 
 work was rubbed down and cleaned, and the clustered shafts and capitals were re- 
 paired ; and, on the visit of her present Majesty to the City, July 9, 1851, a banquet 
 was served to the Queen and suite in this crypt, which was characteristically decorated 
 for the occasion. In the chambers and offices all sorts of styles and decorations of all 
 periods prevail poor Gothic and painted ceiling, and marble sculpture, and mean 
 wall-decoration ; and the floors are of various levels. The interior of the Great Hall, 
 in coarse imitation of the nave of Winchester Cathedral, was also poor and mean. For 
 more than 150 years did the citizens hear the reproach of having their noble hall dis- 
 figured by the incongruous upper story and flat roof. A pointed roof was modelled, 
 but was proceeded with no further. With increasing public taste the anomaly became 
 more and more condemned. The covering was dilapidated and unsightly, and its 
 removal was long pressed upon the Court of Common Council, chiefly by Mr. Deputy 
 Lott, F.S.A., as offensive to architectural and archaeological taste. At length, a 
 committee of the Court of Common Council, to whom the subject had been referred, 
 reported in favour of a series of extensive improvements, involving the entire recon- 
 struction, on a new plan, of most, if not all, the offices of the Corporation. First, 
 however, it was resolved to proceed with a new roof for the Great Hall ; and the 
 committee of the Corporation set about this great work, and determined upon an open 
 oaken roof, with a central louvre and a tapering metal spire. 
 
 The roof and other restorations were confided to Mr. Horace Jones, the City archi- 
 tect, with the assistance of Mr. Digby Wyatt, F.S.A., and Mr. Edward Roberts, F.S.A. 
 The new internal cornice of the roof was commenced, with some ceremony, on the 
 22nd day of June, 1864, when the members of the Improvement Committee, the 
 chaplain to the Lord Mayor, and the principal officers of the Corporation, assembled on 
 the roof, and laid the first stone. 
 
 C 2
 
 388 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The new roof and its general construction is as nearly as possible in accordance with 
 the period in which the Hall was originally built ; and with a drawing, still extant, of 
 the old roof as it existed before its destruction in the Great Fire ; a number of windows 
 by which the interior of the building was lighted from both sides, and which had been 
 closed for generations, have been reopened with excellent effect ; and, by the removal 
 of an unsightly coating of plaster and cement, all the characteristic outlines of the 
 internal architectural embellishments have been brought prominently out. One of the 
 southern windows has been filled with stained glass, designed by Mr. F. Halliday, and 
 executed by Layers and Barraud : the subjects refer to the granting of charter, coining 
 money, Wat Tyler, and a Royal tournament. The new roof is of oak, with rather a 
 high pitch : it is lighted by sixteen dormers, eight on each side, and from the centre 
 springs a louvre for the purposes of light and ventilation, as well as ornament, and it 
 will have a lofty spire. The following are the dimensions : The fair average width 
 of the Hall is 49 feet 6 inches. The cluster of shafts project about 2 feet on each side, 
 and their height to the springing of the arch ribs is 34 feet. The height from the present 
 pavement to the underside of the ridge is 89 feet. The total length is 152 feet, and 
 there are eight bays and seven principals. The length of the collar between the queen 
 post is 29 feet, and was cut out of timber about 2 feet 8 inches square. One pecu- 
 liarity of the construction of the roof is that there is a double lining, one of 2-inch oak 
 and another of l-5nch deal : on this latter the slates are laid. 
 
 In a History of London by Allen and Wright, is a note stating that a Col. Smith, 
 formerly Deputy-Governor of the Tower, had a painting, representing London after 
 the Great Fire, in which about one-third of the roof of Guildhall appeared standing, 
 showing a gable-roof; and that in Hollar's View of London, circa 1647, the roof 
 appears with two lanterns arising from it. 
 
 At each end of the Hall is a large Gothic window occupying the whole width, the 
 arches resting on short columns, and retaining perfect their rich tracery. The upper 
 compartments are filled with painted glass (restored and modern) of the royal arms, 
 and stars and jewels of the Garter, Bath, Thistle, and St. Patrick, in the east window ; 
 and the City arms, supporters, &c. in the west window. Beneath the eastern window, 
 under canopies, and at the back of the spot where the ancient Court of Hustings was 
 holden, are statues of Edward VI., Queen Elizabeth, and King Charles I. from the 
 Guildhall chapel. By an entry in the City records, the figure of Charles I. originally 
 occupied a place in the Royal Exchange. 
 
 In the angles at the opposite end of the hall, on lofty octagonal pedestals, are the 
 celebrated colossal figures of the giants Gog and Magog, sometimes called Gogmagog 
 and Corinseus. (See p. 380.) They were placed in their present position during the 
 alterations of 1815, having formerly stood on each side of the steps leading to the 
 upper rooms, these steps being where now is placed Beckford's monument, which then 
 stood against the great western window. 
 
 This old entrance was very picturesque : on each side of the steps was an octangular 
 turreted gallery, balustraded, for the hall-keeper ; each surrounded by iron-work palm- 
 trees, supporting a balcony and ornamented three-dial clock, and a resplendent gilt 
 sun underneath. The flanking giants, in their singular costume, gave the whole an 
 unique character. At the sides of the steps, under the .hall-keeper's offices, were two 
 dark cells, or cages, in which unruly apprentices were occasionally confined, by order 
 of the City Chamberlain : these were called Little Ease, for a boy could not stand up- 
 right in them. In 1706, Queen Anne made a present to the City, to be hung in the 
 hall, of 26 standards, 63 colours, and a kettledrum, a part of the spoil from the field of 
 Ramilies ; these have been long removed. There are several sculptured monuments 
 erected at the expense of the Corporation to Admiral Lord Nelson, by J. Smith, 1810, 
 inscription by Sheridan; Alderman Beckford, Lord Mayor in 1762 and 1769, by 
 Moore ; the Earl of Chatham, by Bacon, 1782, inscription by Burke ; the Right Hon. W. 
 Pitt, by Bubb, 1813, inscription by Canning. Upon Beckford's monument is the speech 
 which was long believed to have been addressed by him to George III. on his throne. 
 
 Gifford (Ben Jonson, vol. vi. p. 481) denies this ; and Isaac Reed asserts that "Beckford did not utter 
 one sjllaole of this speech. It was penned by Home Tooke, and by his art put on the records of the 
 City and on Beckford's statue, as he told me, Mr. Braithwaitc, Mr. Seyers, &c., at the Athenian Club."
 
 GUILDHALL. 389 
 
 The style of these monuments (which cost 3000 and 4000 guineas each) is ill adapted for a Tudor 
 hall, ami they rank low as works of art : for example, in that to Xelson, the only indication of irs obio.it 
 is a small medallion of the hero; in Beckford's. the decline of the City and Commerce is represented by 
 figures in a drooping state ! a literal allegory. 
 
 The memorial group of the great Duke of Wellington, by John Bell; central statue 
 of the hero, and two emblematic figures ; is in better taste. 
 
 The Guildhall will contain between 6000 and 7000 persons. Here have been hold 
 the Inauguration Dinners of the Lord Mayors since 1501. Charles I. was feasted 
 here, in 1641, with a political object, which failed. Charles II. was nine times enter- 
 tained here at dinner. 
 
 Charles II. dined with the citizens the year that Sir Robert Viner was mayor, who getting elated 
 with continually toasting the royal family, grew a little fond of his maje-ty. " The king understood 
 very well how to extricate himself in all kinds of difficulties, and, with an hint to the company to avoid 
 ceremony, stole oft', and made towards his coach, which stood ready for him in Guildhall -yard. But the 
 mayor liked his company so well, and was grown so intimate, that he pursued him hastily, and catching 
 him fast by the hand, cried out with a vehement oath and accent, ' Sir, you shall stay and take t'other 
 bottle !' The airy monarch looked kindly at him over his shoulder, and with a smile and graceful air 
 (for I saw him at the time, and do now) repeated this line of the old song : 
 
 ' lie that is drunk is as great as a king,' 
 and immediately returned back and complied with his landlord." Spectator. No. 462. 
 
 From 1660, with only three exceptions, our sovereign has dined at Guildhall on Lord 
 Mayor's Day, after his or her accession or coronation. The exceptions were James II., 
 who held the City Charter upon a writ of quo warranto at his accession ; George IV., 
 who was rendered unpopular by his quarrel with his Queen; and William IV., who 
 apprehended political tumult. But George IV. (when Regent) was entertained here, 
 June 18, 1814, with Alexander, Emperor of Russia, and Frederick- William III., King 
 of Prussia, when the banquet cost 25,OOOZ., and the value of the plate used was 
 200,OOOZ. : [on that day year was fought the Battle of Waterloo.] On July 9, 1814, 
 the Duke of Wellington was entertained at dinner in Guildhall. The banquet to 
 George III. cost 6898^., when 1200 guests dined in the Hall; that to Queen Victoria, 
 Nov. 9, 1837, cost 6870Z. ; and an evening entertainment to her Majesty, July 9, 1851, 
 to celebrate the Great Exhibition, cost 5120^. 14*. Qd., being 129Z. 5s. 3d. less than the 
 sum voted : invitations, 1452. Here, in 1831, were entertained the members of the 
 Legislature, and others who promoted and supported Parliamentary Reform ; in 1837, 
 her present Majesty the Queen, on her accession to the throne: in 1838, the foreign 
 Ambassadors and other distinguished personages, in celebration of her Majesty's coro- 
 nation ; in 1855, the Emperor and Empress of the French were feted here (the Lord 
 Mayor raised to the baronetcy as Sir Francis Graham Moon) ; in 1863, the Prince 
 and Princess of Wales, shortly after their marriage. 
 
 The Guildhall is magnificently decorated for royal entertainments, when the sovereign 
 is seated beneath a state canopy at the east end. The lighting of the vast Hall with 
 gas is by stars, mottoes, and devices of 6000 or 7000 jets in the large windows, filled 
 with planking and sheet-iron, to prevent accident by fire : a stupendous crystal star, and 
 a Prince of Wales's plume in spun glass, nine feet high, are superb insignia ; the archi- 
 tectural lines of the edifice were marked out with 5000 gas-jets ; and from the roof hung 
 two painted chandeliers, each 12 feet diameter ; the whole flood of gaslight exceeding 
 that of 45,000 wax-candles ; this being the former mode of lighting : the present is 
 by gas chandeliers, of appropriate design. 
 
 The Dinner on Lord Mayor's Day is a magnificent spectacle : the Lord Mayor and 
 his distinguished guests advance to the banquet by sound of trumpet ; and the superb 
 dresses and official costumes of the company, about 1200 in number, with the display of 
 costly plate, is very striking. The Hall is divided : at the upper, or hustings tables, the 
 courses are served hot ; at the lower tables the turtle only is hot. The baron of beef 
 is brought in procession from the kitchen into the Hall in the morning, and being placed 
 upon a pedestal, at night is cut up by " the City carver." The old Kitchen, wherein 
 the dinner was dressed, was a vast apartment ; the principal range was 16 feet long 
 and 7 feet high, and a baron of beef (3 cwt.) upon the gigantic spit was turned by 
 hand. There were 20 cooks, besides helpers ; 14 tons of coals were consumed. Some 40 
 turtles are slaughtered for 250 tureens of soup ; and the serving of the dinner requires 
 about 200 persons and 8000 plate- changes. Next morning the fragments of the Great 
 Feast are doled out to the poor.
 
 300 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The following, from Pepys's Diary, is the earliest account we have of the Lord 
 Mayor's Inauguration Dinner : 
 
 " 29th Oct. 1663. To Guildhall, and up and down to see the tables ; where under every salt there 
 was a bill of fare, and at the end of the table the persons proper for the table. Many were the tables, 
 but none in the Hall but the Mayor's and Lords of the Privy Council that had napkins or knives, which 
 was very strange. I sat at the Merchant Strangers' table, where ten good dishes to a messe, with plenty of 
 wine of all sorts ; but it was very unpleasing that we had no napkins nor change of trenchers, and drank 
 out of earthen pitchers and wooden dishes." 
 
 The Guildhall Inauguration Dinner, including wines, usually costs about 15001., 
 which is supposed to be paid out of the public money ; but the City contribute only 
 200Z., the remainder being paid half by the Lord Mayor and half by the two Sheriffs. 
 The procession costs about 3001., and the decoration of the hall 80QL, which is similarly 
 apportioned. 
 
 The Court of Hustings held in the Guildhall, was the Saxon Follanote : the word 
 Hustings in Saxon signifies the Souse of Ca-nses, a general Council or Court. The 
 Court is considered the highest Court of Judicature ; the presiding judges, the Lord 
 Mayor and Sheriffs. The proceedings are similar to the County Courts, with the 
 addition, anciently, of the enrolment of deeds and wills, &c. The following entries 
 are from the English Chronicle, and show the uses the Hall was put to in the holding 
 of this Court in past ages : 
 
 In 1441 Maister Roger and Master Thomas were tried in the Guildhalle of Londoun for tresons and 
 sorcery. On the 18th of November, in the same year, Maister Roger Bollyngbrooke was arreynied for 
 tresonn agens the Kyngis persone, and thereof, by XII men of Londoun, he was founde guilty. Lord 
 Say (Saye) was brought out of the Tour unto Guyldehalle to be tried, Saturday, July 4, 1450. 
 
 The following entries are from the Diary of Henry Machyn, Citizen and Merchant Taylor of London : 
 " In 1550-1, the xiijj day of Marche was rayned at the Yeld-halle a C (hundred) mareners for robyng 
 on the see, and the Captayne, belying a Skott, was cared to Nugate the same day, and certen cast (con- 
 demned). In 1552, the vij day of June, the Duke of Northumberland and dyvers of the Kynges Consell sat 
 at Ycld-hall to hear certain causys, and toke up my Lord Mayre and his brodurne for vetell, because he 
 lokycl not to it, and for sellyng of the same, and oder causys. In 1559, the furst day of December, was 
 raynyd at the Yeld-hall, Master Grymstou, Captayn." 
 
 The Entrance. The Hall is approached by a porch consisting of two divisions, formed 
 by an arch and columns crossing in the centre ; the wall on either side is subdivided into 
 smaller compartments, with tracery and quatrefoil turns. The groined roof, with 
 stone ribs springing from the sides, are intersected in the centre with sculptured bosses 
 with various devices of the arms and bearings of Edward the Confessor. 
 
 The Crypt, already described on page 301, has, at each intersection of the groins, a 
 boss, bearing shields with the arms of Edward the Confessor, the City arms, well- 
 sculptured roses, &c. 
 
 The Chapel. This ancient appendage to the Guildhall was founded by Peter Fan- 
 love, Adam Francis, and Henry Frowick, citizens, and dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen 
 and all Saints, and called London College, in 1299. In the records of the Corporation 
 of the date of 1326, there is an account of timber and lead granted for the building, 
 and in 1379, the surplus materials not used in the building of the Guildhall were given 
 for the same purpose. 
 
 1413. In Holinshed's Chronicle, vol. iii. p. 56, there is the following entry : " He (Richard Whit- 
 tington) also builded for the ease of the Maior of London, his brethren, and the worshipful citizens, on 
 the solemne days of their assemblie, a Chapell adjoining to the Guildhall, to the intent that before they 
 entered into any of their worldlie affaires, they should begin with prayer and invocation to God for hi 
 assistance." 
 
 In the mayoralty of John Welles, grocer, the Chapel was rebuilt, 1431. 
 
 From Machyn's Diary. "The vj day of May (1554) was a goodly evyngsong at Teldhall Colege, by 
 the Masters of the Clarkes and ther felowshyppe of Clarkes, with syngyng and playing, as youe have 
 hard. [The morrow after was a great Mass at the same place, by the same fraternity, when every Clerk 
 offered a halfpenny. The Mass was sung by divers of the Queen's Chapel and children.] The xxvij day 
 of May (1555) was the Clarkes Prossessyon from Yeldhall College, and a goodly Masse he hard (or has 
 been heard), and evere Clarke havying acrosse and garland, with C. (hundred) shewers borne, and the 
 whettes (waits) playing round Chepe, and so to Ledynhall (unto St. Albro Chyrche) (Ethelburga), and 
 there they putt off .their gayre (gear), and there was the blessyd Sacrament borne with torche light 
 abowt, and from thens unto Barbur-hall to dener. The tomb of Sir Thomas Kneesworth, late Mare of 
 London, repaired by John Bullok, xvij of June, 1562." 
 
 This Chapel was not so much injured by the Great Fire as to lose its architectural 
 features. It consisted of a main and side aisle ; the latter, to the north, not having had 
 any regular communication with the former. The west had a large window with tracery 
 entire, and beneath it a handsome pointed arch entrance, under a square architrave,, 
 having sculptured capitals with quatrefoils and shields with arms in the spandrels r
 
 GUILDHALL. 331 
 
 against the windows were three niches, large and heavy. They contained good figures 
 of King Edward VI. ; Queen Elizabeth, with a Phoenix under her ; and of Charles I., 
 treading upon a globe, sculptured by Stone; the spaces of wall on each side, and under 
 the window, were ornamented with panels. At the Dissolution of the religious houses 
 the Chapel was purchased by the Mayor and Commonalty, and used as the Court of 
 Requests. It was taken down in 1822 to make way for the present Courts of Law : 
 the window is preserved in the Chamberlain's office; there are remains of the crypt, 
 with the stairs leading to the Chapel. 
 
 North of the Hall is the Court of Exchequer, formerly the King's Bench Court. It 
 was built immediately after the Great Hall (temp. Henry VI.) for the Mayor's Court, 
 still held here. Some of the windows were glazed by the executors of Whittington, 
 and emblazoned with his arms : Stow describes among the glass, " the Mayor pictured 
 sitting in habite, party-coloured, and a hood on his head ; his sword before him, with 
 an hatte or cap of maintenance ; the common clearke and other officers bare-headed, 
 their hoodes on their shoulders." This Court had at the back of the judges' seats 
 paintings of Prudence, Justice, Religion and Fortitude. Here is a large picture by 
 Alaux of Paris, presented by Louis-Philippe, representing his reception of an address 
 from the City on his visit to England in 1844 ; Humphery, mayor, and many other 
 portraits. Here also are portraits of George III. and Queen Charlotte, by Ramsay ; 
 and William III. and Queen Mary, by Van der Voort. 
 
 The Common- Council Chamber contains, in a niche behind the Mayor's chair, a 
 marble statue of George III., by Chantrey, the inscription by Alderman Birch, in 
 whose mayoralty, 1815, the statue was erected. On the right is a whole-length portrait 
 of Queen Victoria, by Hayter; and left are half-lengths of Caroline, queen of 
 George IV., and her daughter the Princess Charlotte, both by Lonsdale. Here are the 
 following busts : Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort, J. Durham, sculptor ; Prince 
 of Wales, by Marshall Wood; H. B. Beaufoy, F.R.S., by Calder Marshall; Thomas 
 Clarkson, R. L. Jones, and Major-General Sir H. Havelock, by W. Behnes; T. H. 
 Hall, by J. Durham; Lord Nelson, by the Hon. Mrs. Darner; Granville Sharp, by 
 Chantrey; the Duke of Wellington, by Turnerelli. 
 
 North side: Portraits Chamberlain Clarke, by Lawrence; Aldermen Waithman and Wood, by 
 Patten; Nelson, by Beechey; Lord Denman, by Mrs. Pearson. Paintings Defence of Gibraltar and 
 burning of gun-boats, 1782, by Paton ; Rodney's Victory, 1782, by Dodd ; and Sir William Walworth 
 killing Wat Tyler, in Smithneld, by Northcote. East side : Siege of Gibraltar, by Copley, father of Lord 
 Lyndhurst : it covers the entire side, and was painted by the artist raised on a platform. South side : 
 Alderman Boydell, by Beechey ; Lord Heathfleld, by Reynolds ; Murder of Rizzio by Opie ; Lord Corn- 
 wallis, by Copley; Defence and Relief of Gibraltar, by Paton; Rodney breaking the French line, 1782, 
 by Dodd. 
 
 Here are also three pictures of municipal ceremonies and festivities : the Civic Oath administered to 
 Alderman Newnham, as Lord Mayor, on the Hustings in the Guildhall, Nov. 8, 1782, with 140 portraits; 
 the Lord Mayor's Show by Water boats by Paton, figures by Wheatley ; and the Royal Entertainment 
 in Guildhall, June 18, 1814, by Daniell, K.A. 
 
 The Court of Aldermen is profusely gilded, and painted with allegorical figures of 
 the City of London, Prudence, Justice, Temperance, and Fortitude, by Sir James 
 Thornhill, who was presented by the Corporation with a gold cup, value 225/. 7*. 
 
 The Chamberlain's Office is on the north-east : he is keeper of the City cash, 
 regalia, and trust-money; admits, on oath, persons to the freedom of London, and 
 registers and enrols all apprentices, adjudicates between them and their masters, and 
 lias power to commit either to Bridewell. The Chamberlain bears on state occasions 
 an ancient staff, surmounted with a jewelled crown : this sceptre is presented with the 
 City keys, mace, and sword, on the entry of the sovereign by Temple Bar ; and ia 
 formally surrendered on the yearly re-election of the Chamberlain, November 18. 
 There is neither record nor tradition of a defalcation in his office in upwards of 700 
 years. The Chamberlain's ancient seal is a royal .crown, lion passant, the City sword, 
 and two keys : legend, Sigillum Cameras JLondini.* In the office hangs the picture of 
 the Battle of Towton, painted by Alderman Boydell ; and here, where the City appren- 
 tices sign their indentures, suggestively hangs a fine set of Hogarth's prints of tha 
 
 * Wilkes was Chamberlain from 1779 until his death in 1797 : he was succeded by Alderman Richard 
 Clark, who, when sheriff', took Dr. Johnson to a judges' dinner at the Old Bailey ; the judges being Black- 
 stone and Eyre. Mr. Clark, when 15, was introduced to Johnson, whom he last met at the Essex Head 
 Club. Chamberlain Clark died in " Cowley's House," at Chertsey, in 1831, aged 92.
 
 392 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Industrious and Idle Apprentices. In the Chamberlain's Parlour are duplicate 
 copies of the freedoms and thanks voted to distinguished personages by the City ; they 
 are fine specimens of penmanship, mostly by Mr. Tomkins, whose portrait, by Rey- 
 nolds (and said to be his latest picture), hangs here. In the Waiting Room, among 
 the pictures are Reynolds's portrait of the great Lord Camden, and Opie's Murder of 
 James I. of Scotland. 
 
 A large folding screen, painted, it is said, by Copley, represents the Lord Mayor Heckford delivering? 
 the City sword to King George ILL at Temple Bar; interesting for its portraits and record of the cos- 
 tumes of the period ; presented by Alderman Salomons to tbe City in 1850. Here, too, is a large picture 
 of the battle of Agincourt, painted by Sir Robert Ker Porter, when 19 years of age, assisted by Mr. Mul- 
 ready, subsequently K.A., and presented to the City in 1808. 
 
 In the library, rich in books, tracts, and MSS. relating to the City, and first opened 
 in 1828, are portraits of several aldermen ; and a Museum of relics discovered at Old 
 London Bridge, the Royal Exchange, and elsewhere in the City. (See MUSEUMS.) 
 
 In the Courts of Common Pleas and Queen's Bench, built upon the site of Guildhall 
 Chapel, by Montague, in 1823, are portraits of the judges who justly adjudicated the 
 disputed properties of the citizens after the Great Fire. These and other pictures were for- 
 merly hung in the Guildhall-: in stormy political times they were occasionally injured ; for, 
 in the London Gazette of 1681, the Lord Mayor and Court of Aldermen advertised a 
 reward of 5001. for the discovery of the person who offered an indignity to the portrait 
 of the Duke of York (James II.) in the Guildhall, to show their deep resentment at 
 that " insolent and villanous act." 
 
 In the portraits of Sir Matthew Hale, and other judges of his time, hung up in the Courts at Guildhall, 
 they are represented with beards and skull-caps ; but these portraits are not much better painted than 
 the portraits of the Scottish Kings at Holyrood, and may not be entitled to rank higher as authorities. 
 The powdered wig gradually degenerated into an ordinary flaxen one; even that began to be left off 
 about 1825; and since the death of Mr. Justice Littledale, not a single judge is distinguishable in a 
 drawing-room from the ordinary mob of gentlemen, by his dress. Bishops are degenerating in the 
 same manner. 
 
 Two new Law Courts have been added to the Guildhall; and a portion of the 
 ancient crypt has been appropriated as a kitchen; the site of the old kitchen being 
 that of the north court. There being no external elevations to these new courts, the 
 roof is of thick glass in ironwork frames. 
 
 Guildhall and the offices and buildings connected therewith, the Mansion House, the 
 Sessions House, and other Corporation property are insured against fire in amounts not 
 exceeding in the whole the sum of 200.000Z. The several amounts expended upon the 
 Guildhall and the buildings connected therewith, from the year 1800 to 1865, 
 distinguishing the cost incurred in temporary buildings and erections upon special 
 public occasions, were as follow: 72,101^. 7*. 5d. expended on repairs and alterations; 
 32,928Z. 19s. lid. upon fittings upon Lord Mayor's-day ; 42,382^. 8*. 7rf. for special 
 entertainments ; and for law courts the sum of 25,911Z. 5s. 6d., making a total of 
 173,323^. 14s. 5d. expended upon the Guildhall during the above period. 
 
 HA CKNEY- CO A CHES. 
 
 C\ CACHES were first let for hire in London in 1625, and were hence called hackney- 
 \J coaches ; that they were named from being first employed in conveying the 
 citizens to their villas at Hackney, is a popular error, though supported by Maitland. 
 The term is said to be from the French haquenee, a slow-paced or ambling nag ; as, 
 "he had in his stable an JiacJcenay." (Chaucer s JRomaunt of the Hose.) But 
 Tiaquenee " does not include the idea of hiring. To hack is to offer a thing for common 
 sale or hire; and a coach (along with the horses) kept for hire is a hackney-coach." 
 (David Booth's Analytical Dictionary, p. 304.) Hackney-coaches were first kept at 
 inns, but soon got into the streets, as appears in Straffbrd's Letters, April, 1634 : 
 
 *t*i^. ^v mi*i. DuiiicLiuiea inert; IB twenty ui i nciu lugeuier, wmuii uispurse up miu uu\>ii , vuftt they 
 
 and others are to be had everywhere, as watermen are tu be had by the water-side." 
 
 A successful rival, however, soon appeared ; when Sir Saunders Duncombe, upon 
 petition to Charles I., stated the streets to be greatly encumbered with the coaches
 
 HALLS OF THE CITY COMPANIES. 393 
 
 and that in many parts beyond sea people were much carried in chairs that are covered, 
 whereby few coaches were used among them ; and the king granted Buncombe "the 
 sole privilege to use, let, or hire a number of the said covered chairs for fourteen years ;" 
 the fare being 1*. per mile. Yet the hackney-coaches had so increased in 1635, as to 
 be considered a nuisance by the Court, and to be limited by Star-chamber. In 1637, 
 however, Charles granted a special commission to his master of the horse to license 
 fifty hackney-coachmen in London and Westminster, each to keep twelve horses, for 
 about 200 coaches, which Sir William Davenant describes as " uneasily hung, and so 
 narrow that he took them for sedans on wheels." Their rates were fixed by Act 14 
 Charles II. In 1694 they were limited to 700. 
 
 Hackney-coaches were first excluded from Hyfle Park in 1695, when " several persons of quality 
 bavin? been affronted at the Ring by some of the persons that rode in hackney-coaches with masks, and 
 complaint thereof being made to the Lord Justices, an order is made that no hackney-coaches be per- 
 mitted to go into the said Park, and that none presume to appear there in masks." (Post-Boy, June 8, 
 1695.) And the exclusion continues to this day. 
 
 By coach was the usual mode of sight-seeing : " I took (Toiler, June 18, 1709) three 
 lads, who were under my guardianship, a-rambling in a hackney-coach, to shew them 
 the town ; as the lions, the tombs, Bedlam," &c. Gay's Trivia glances at this period : 
 
 " When on his box the nodding coachman snores, 
 And dreams of fancy' d fares." 
 
 In 1771 the number of coaches was fixed at 1000, and their fares were raised ; 
 again increased in 1799, and the office removed to Somerset House 1782 ; since 1833, 
 their number has not been limited. In 1814 hackney-chariots were introduced ; and 
 in 1820 cabriolets, or cabs. The double-seated hackney-coach was usually a cast-off 
 carriage, often to be seen covered with the emblazoned arms of its former noble owner ; 
 and the driver was notoriously " rude, exacting, and quarrelsome." Both coaches and 
 chariots were drawn by a pair of horses ; but the cab dispenses with one horse, and the 
 fare is thus reduced half. The cab (from Paris) was at first open and chaise-like, 
 with a pair of wheels, but very liable to accidents, which soon begat a host of " safety" 
 improvements. The cab, or sedan-like coach-body upon four wheels, often reminds one 
 of a seventeenth-century-coach, such as we see sculptured on Thynne's tomb in West- 
 minster Abbey. 
 
 HALLS OF THE CITY COMPANIES. 
 
 "UOREMOST in vastness and antiquity is the Guildhall of the City of London, just 
 A- described. The latter affords the best idea of the Companies' ancient halls, the 
 majority of which were destroyed in the Great Fire. They were the guild-halls, from 
 the gild-hallas of the Anglo-Saxons, wherein wares were exposed for sale, as in most 
 towns of the Middle Ages. 
 
 The ancient Hall mostly had an open timber roof ; whence the Fishmongers', and 
 probably other Companies, suspended the properties of their pageants. In the centre 
 of the roof was a louvre, or lantern ; at the sides were Gothic windows, filled with 
 painted glass ; and beneath hung gorgeous tapestry, which, in the Merchant-Tailors' 
 Hall, contained the history of their patron, St. John the Baptist. The floor was 
 strewed with rushes ; the tables were planks placed on tressels ; a reredos, or grand 
 screen, crossed the apartment, hiding the entrances to the buttery, larder, and kitchen ; 
 " the minstrailes" were in a gallery aloft : and there were temporary platforms and 
 stages for players. Other passages branched to the wine and ale cellars, and to 
 the chambers. Annexed to the buttery were the bakehouse and brewhouse; the 
 kitchen passage was guarded by a spiked hatch, and was well stored with " spittes, 
 rakkes, and rollars." There is also named in Brewers' Hall, temp. Henry VI. " the 
 tresaunce," or cloister between the great kitchen and the hall ; and an " almarie cup- 
 board," for the Company's alms (apparently broken provisions), in the great kitchen. 
 
 The Companies possessed halls from the date of their first charters, under Edward 
 III. The Merchant-tailors, however, had a hall at the back of the Red Lion, in 
 Basing-lane, long before they bought their Hall in Threadneedle-street, in 1331. The 
 Weavers, Bakers, Butchers, and other ancient guilds, must also have had halls in very 
 remote times : these, and other meeting-places, particularly of the Minor Companies, 
 were probably, at first, but mean buildings, as the original Guildhall in Aldermanbury ;
 
 394 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and before the founding of their halls, the Companies met at various great mansions in 
 the City, lent for the purpose. 
 
 In their Halls the Twelve Great Companies gave grand feasts to various monarchs, 
 who enrolled themselves as members. In the Interregnum they were the meeting- 
 places of the Government Commissioners ; by the Parliamentary commanders they 
 were converted into barracks ; by the puritanical clergy into preaching-places ; and by 
 successive Lord Mayors into temporary mansion-houses. In Elizabeth's and the 
 Stuarts' reigns, every Hall was obliged to have also a granary and an armoury ; and 
 the Company's almshouses adjoined the Hall, that the alms-folk might be ready to join 
 in processions and pageants. 
 
 The donations of plate to the Companies included drinking-cups, gallon-pots, basins 
 and ewers, large silver salvers, goblets and salts of " sylver, sylver-guylte, parcel-gylte, or 
 sylver-white :" and to the entry of the name and gift was usually attached an ejaculatory 
 prayer for the donor, as " Ih'u be mercyfull unto his soul ;" " God send him long life 
 and welfare," &c. 
 
 Liveries are not mentioned to have been worn by any of the Companies before temp. 
 Edward I. ; the hood, evidently copied from the monk's cowl, was an indispensable 
 appendage; and the Company's "trade conizances" were embroidered conspicuously on 
 the dress. 
 
 The Companies were, at first, half-ecclesiastical bodies. "This demi-religious character evidenced 
 itself in the mode of their foundation : in their choosing patron-saints and chaplains ; founding altars 
 to such saints in the churches they held the advowson of, and in various other ways. None of the trades 
 assembled to form fraternities, without ranging themselves under the banner of some saint ; and, if pos- 
 sible, they chose a saint who either bore a relation to their trade, or to some other analogous circum- 
 stance. The Fishmongers adopted St. Peter, and met at St. Peter's Church ; the Drapers chose the 
 Virgin Mary, mother of the ' Holy Lamb,' or fleece, as the emblem of that trade, and appropriately 
 assembled, in like manner at St. Mary Bethlem church, Bishopsgate; the Goldsmiths' patron was St. 
 Dunstan, reported to have been a brother artisan; the Merchant-Tailors, another branch of the draping 
 business, marked their connexion with It by selecting St. John Baptist, who was the harbinger of the 
 holy Lamb, so adopted by the Drapers; and which, as being anciently cloth-dealers, still constitutes the 
 crest of that Society. 
 
 " In other cases, the Companies denominated themselves fraternities of the particular saint in whose 
 church or chapel they assembled, and had their altar. Thus, the Grocers called themselves the fraternity 
 of St. Anthony, because they had their altar in St. Anthony's church; the Vintners, ' the fraternity of 
 St. Martin,' from the like connexion with St. Martin's Vintry church ; and the Skinners and the Sailers, 
 both societies of Corpus Christi, from meeting, the one at the altar of that name in St. Laurence Poultry 
 church ; and the other at Corpus Christi chapel, in All Saints, Bread-street." -(Herbert's Hint, of the 
 Twelve Oreat Livery Companies, vol. i. pp. 6t>6-7.) Nor until after the Eeformation could the fraterni- 
 ties be regarded as strictly secular. 
 
 In their processions to church the Companies were joined by the religious orders in 
 there rich costumes, bearing wax torches and singing, and frequently attended by the 
 Lord Mayor and great civic authorities in state. Funerals were as religiously observed 
 by them ; and to celebrate with becoming grandeur the obsequies of deceased members, 
 almost the whole of these fraternities kept a state-pall, or hearse-cloth, a few of which 
 are preserved to this day ; members of superior rank were followed to interment by the 
 Lord Mayor and civic authorities ; and it was customary to provide funeral dinners, with 
 sums left by the deceased, or sent after death by the relatives to their Halls : such sums, 
 temp. Elizabeth and James, were generally not less than 201. 
 
 "The great Sir Philip Sidney, who was publicly buried at St. Paul's Cathedral in 1587, was a brother 
 of the Grocers' Company, and was attended by that livery in all their formalities, who were preceded by 
 the Lord Mayor, aldermen, and sheriffs, ' rydinge in purple.' The number of the Grocers' livery amounted 
 to 120, and are represented in a print of the procession by De Brie." Nichols's Progresses of Queen 
 Elizabeth, ii. pp. 19-26. 
 
 At the funeral of Sir Thomas Lovell (of Shakspeare memory, at Holywell Nunnery, Shoreditch), 
 " the gentlemen of the inns of court (Sir Thomas built Lincoln's Inn fine gateway), with certeyn crafts 
 of Tendon," received the corpse at the convent gate, accompanied by the Mayor and aldermen, who, on 
 the uody being placed under the hearse, or canopy, encircled the rails, and repeated the De profundii. 
 Meanwhile, " there was a drynkynge in all the cloister, the nones, halls and parlors of the said place." 
 
 The Election Feasts in the Halls, temp. Henry IV., were partaken of by the first 
 nobility, and even princes, besides the City dignitaries ; when the luxuries included 
 the mighty "baron" or "ribbes of beef," "frumentie with venison," brawn, fat swan, 
 boar, conger, sea-hog;, and other delicacies stored above the salt ;* whilst "sotilties" of 
 
 * The salt, or salt-cellar, was a magnificent piece of plate, forming, in the Middle Ages, a division 
 between the upper and lower part of the table. Mr. Fosbroke believed one, in the Tower of London, 
 and of silver-gilt, to belong to the Mercers' Company. To be seated above the salt was a mark of 
 honour ; and our ancestors seem often to have placed persons below it in order to mortify them.
 
 HALLS OF THE CITY COMPANIES. 395 
 
 the Company's patron, trade, or saint, recalled the origin of the fraternity ; and there 
 were "voyds of spice-bread, ypocras, and comfits," to the renewed "noise" (music) of 
 the minstrels, or waits, or the higher merriment of the London clerks " playing 
 some holy play." 
 
 Thus, 5th September, 1419, 17 Henry V., we have the following Election-dinner of the Brewers' Com- 
 pany, the "Ordinaire de la Feste," in Norman-French. 
 
 First Course. Brawn with mustard; cabbages to the pottage; swan standard; capons roasted; great 
 custards. (For the " fat swan" and the cygnet, the citizens had their annual swan uppings.) 
 
 Second Course. Venison in broth, with white mottreids; cony standard; partridges with cocks 
 roasted ; leche lumbard, doucetts with little parneuse. 
 
 Third Course. Pears in syrop; great birds with little ones together; fritters, paynpuffs with a cold 
 bajted meat. 
 
 The cost of another Election Feast of the Brewers, A.D. 1425, was 38/. 4s. 2d., a very large sum, con- 
 sidering that money was then of five times its present value. Melted fat, or lard, was then used where 
 we now use butter, then a great dainty, as was also sugar, the place of which was supplied by honey. 
 Furmenty, thefurmentaria of Ducange, was wheat boiled in milk, such as is eaten to this day. Aroma- 
 tising" the Hall with the precious Indian wood, sanders, and Brazil wood, by fumigation, greatly 
 enlivened the table. Not only did widows, wives, and single women, who were members of the Company 
 join the feast ; but from the Grocers' ordinances of 1348, "bretherene" could introduce their wives or 
 companions, and damsels; indeed, a wife was not to be excused, unless " malade, on grouse danfant, et 
 pres sa deliverance." 
 
 The Election Ceremonies took place after the feast, when the newly-elected principals 
 were crowned " with garlondes on their hedes." Then followed the " loving cup," 
 as is still the custom ;* and next the minstrels and players ; the minstrels including 
 harpers, who played and sang in the intervals of the others sounding their cornets, 
 shalms, flutes, horns, and pipes. The dramas then in fashion often consisted of single 
 subjects ; and this taste continued till long after the establishment of the regular 
 theatres. In the Guildhall library is an original licence from the Master of the Revels, 
 in 1662, authorizing " George Bailey, musitioner, and eight servants, his company, to 
 play for one year a play called Noah's Flood;" these eight persons personating the 
 patriarch and his family. 
 
 The Companies' Barges also formed stately pageants. Thus, at the coronation of 
 the queen of Henry VII., she was attended " from Greenwich " by water, by " the 
 Maior, shrifes, and alderman of the citie, and divers and many worshipful commoners, 
 chosen out of every crafte, in their liverays, in barges freshly furnished with banners 
 and stremers of silk, rechely beaton with the armes and bagges of their craftes." In 
 the same reign, among " a great and goodly nombre of barges," either fastened up, or 
 "roweing and skym'ying in the riv' and Thamys," was, " first for the cittie of London, 
 the Mayer's barge, the sherevys' barge, aldermens dy r rs bargs ; and then the crafts of 
 the cytie, having their standards and stremers, w* ther conizances right weel dekkyd, 
 and replenyshid w l w r shipfull company of the citizens." 
 
 The earliest Triumph, Pageant, or " Biding," connected with the trades, occurred in 1293, on the 
 return of Edward I. from his victory over the Scots, when "every citizen, according to their severall 
 trades, made their several shew." They also joined in coronation processions, as that of Henry IV. in 
 1399, when Froissart states Cheapside to have had seven fountains running with red and white wine ; 
 the different Companies of London, led by their wardens, were clothed in their proper liveries, and bore 
 banners of their trades. Chaucer describes an idle City apprentice of his day : 
 
 " When there any ridings were in Chepe, 
 Out of the shoppe thider would he lepe ; 
 And till that he had all the sight ysein, 
 And danced wel, he would not come again." 
 
 From this sketch of the early Halls of the Companies, and their ancient state and 
 observances, we proceed to the City Halls of the present day, commencing with the 
 
 * " The Loving Cup" is a splendid feature of the Hall-feasts of the City and Inns of Court. The 
 Cup is of silver, or silver-gilt, and is filled with spiced wine, immemorially termed " sack." Imme- 
 diately after the dinner and grace, the Masters and Wardens drink to their visitors a hearty welcome; 
 the cup is then passed round the table, and each guest, after he has drunk, applies his napkin to the 
 mouth of the cup before he passes it to his neighbour. The more formal practice is for " the person 
 who pledges with the loving cup to stand up and bow to his neighbour, who, also standing, removes the 
 cover with his right hand, and holds it while the other drinks ; a custom said to have originated in the 
 precaution to keep the right, or ' dagger-hand,' employed, that the person who drinks may be assured 
 of no treachery, like that practised by Ellrida on the unsuspecting King Edward the Martyr, at Corfe 
 Castle, who was slain while drinking. This was why the loving cup possessed a cover " F. W, 
 Fail-halt, F.S.A.
 
 396 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 HALLS OF THE GREAT COMPANIES, 
 IN THEIE OEDEE OF PEECEDENCY. 
 
 1. MEBCEES' HALL. The Mercers is generally referred to as " the most ancient 
 of all the great leading companies." But several are of greater antiquity, although 
 the Mercers Company takes precedence of rank. 
 
 Charter Charter 
 
 Order of Precedence. granted. 
 
 No. 1. Mercers 1393 
 
 No. 2. Grocers 1345 
 
 No. 4. Fishmongers 1384 
 
 No. 5. Goldsmith: 
 
 Order of Precedence. granted. 
 
 No. 19. Bakers i:ii>7 
 
 No. 25. Saddlers 1280 
 
 No. 26. Carpenters 1319 
 
 No. 42. Weavers 1164 
 
 No. 83. Parish Clerks 1232 
 
 No. 6. Skinners"*] 1327 
 
 Mercers' Hall, Cheapside, between Ironmonger-lane and Old Jewry, occupies the 
 site of the ancient hospital of St. Thomas Aeon's, whereon the Mercers first settled in 
 London, hence called " the Mercery." On the site of the present entrance to the 
 Hall from Cheapside stood the house of Gilhert 'Becket, father of Becket, Archbishop 
 of Canterbury ; after whose murder his sister Agnes and her husband built 
 here a chapel and hospital, destroyed in the Great Fire. Soon after were built upon 
 the same site the present Hall and Chapel ; the front of the latter, by Wren, now 
 only remains : above the ornamented doorway are cherubim mantling the Virgin's 
 head, the cognisance of the Company ; the front has also figures of Faith, Hope, and 
 Charity ; the whole in stone kept in handsome repair.* The chapel is at the extremity 
 of the ante-chapel ; over which, upon Doric columns, is the hall, handsomely wains- 
 coted and carved : here are held the Gresham Committees. Among the paintings are 
 original portraits of Sir Thomas Gresham and Dean Colet ; and a fanciful portrait of 
 Whittington. Among the Mercers' Trust-estates are St. Paul's and Mercers' Schools. 
 
 Of the Mercers' Company there have been several kings, princes, and nobility ; and to 1708, ninety- 
 eight had been lord mayors, and one as early as 1214; Richard II., who granted the first charter in 
 1393, was a mercer ; as were also Whittington and the illustrious Gresham. Among the Company's 
 documents are a curious illustration of Whittington dying (ordinances of his college), and portraits of 
 the lirst three wardens. In 1513, the Mercers possessed Conduit Mead, now covered by New Bond- 
 street, which, had they retained, it would more than quadruple the value of all their present estates. 
 (Herbert.) Among their property is the north side of Long Acre (about 8 acres), and the adjacent 
 streets, including Mercer-street ; in 1650, " part of the possessions of Charles Stuart, late King of Eng- 
 land, for which the warden and company then paid to the Crown 13. 4d. per annum. There is scarcely 
 a single mercer in the Company at the present day." (Herbert.) Sir Baptist Hicks (founder of the 
 Campden family) was a great mercer in Cheapside, who supplied the Court when James I. and " his 
 bare Scotch nobility and gentry came in :" he built the first Hicks' s Hall, and was one of the first citizens 
 that after knighthood kept their shops. 
 
 The Mercers' Company lend money to livery-men, or freemen, without interest, upon approved 
 security. The Company also established the first insurance office for lives, in 1698. (Hatton.) The 
 Golden Lectureship is in their gift. William Caxtou, England's first printer, was a liveryman of this 
 Company. 
 
 The Mercers' Election-Cup, of early sixteenth-century work, is silver-gilt, decorated 
 with fretwork and female busts ; the feet, flasks ; and on the cover is the popular 
 legend of an unicorn yielding its horn to a maiden. The whole is enamelled with coats 
 of arms and these lines : 
 
 " To elect the master of the mercerie hither am I sent, 
 And by Sir Thomas Leigh for the same intent." 
 
 The Company also possess a silver-gilt Wagon and Tun, covered with arabesques and 
 enamels, of sixteenth-century work. The Hall was originally decorated with carvings ; 
 the main stem of deal, the fruit, flowers, &c., of lime, pear, and beech ; these becoming 
 worm-eaten, were, long since, removed from the panelling, and put aside, but they 
 have been restored by Mr. Henry Crace, who thus describes the process : 
 
 " The carving is of the same colour as when taken down. I merely washed it, and with a gimlet 
 bored a number of holes in the back, and into every projecting piece of fruit and leaves, on the face, and 
 placing the whole in along trough, 15 inches deep, 1 covered it with a solution prepared in the following 
 manner : 1 took 16 gallons of linseed oil, with 2 Ibs. of litharge, finely ground, 1 Ib. of camphor, and 
 2 Ibs. of red lead, which I boiled for six hours, keeping it stirred, that every ingredient might be per- 
 fectly incorporated. I then dissolved 6 Ibs. of beeswax in a gallon of spirits of turpentine, and mixed 
 the whole while warm, thoroughly together. 
 
 " In this solution the carving remained for twenty-four hours. When taken out, I kept the face 
 
 * In a shop in the porch of Mercers' Chapel, Guy (founder of Guy's Hospital) was apprenticed to a 
 bookseller in 1660; and the house, rebuilt after the Great Fire, was rented by Guy, then a master- 
 bookseller.
 
 HALL-GROCERS: 397 
 
 downwards, that the oil in the hole might soak down to the face of the carving, and on cutting some of 
 the wood nearly 9 inches deep, I found it had soaked through; for not any of the dust was blown out, 
 as I considered it a valuable medium to form a substance for the future support of the wood ; this has 
 been accomplished, and as the dust became saturated with the oil, it increased in bulk, and rendered the 
 carving perfectly solid." 
 
 2. GROCERS' HALI, Grocers' Hall-court, Poultry anciently, " Conningshop-lane," 
 i.e. cony-shop-lane, from the sign of three conies (rabbits), hanging over a poulterer's 
 stall at the lane end is the third edifice built for the Company, upon " voide grounds 
 sum tyme the Lord Fitzwalter's halle :" the first was completed in 1428, in a large 
 garden, and had an ancient turret, probably part of the Fitzwalter mansion, and one of 
 the oldest buildings within the City walls. This Hall was let " for dinners, funerals, 
 county feasts, and weddings;" in 1641, "the Grand Committee of Safety" removed it8 
 sittings from Guildhall here; Cromwell and Fairfax were feasted here by the Grocers; 
 and at the Restoration, Gen. Monk. In the Great Fire, the roof and woodwork of the, 
 Hall only were destroyed ; the old walls were then newly roofed, and in 1668-9, the 
 parlour and dining-room were rebuilt by Sir John Cutler, four times master of the 
 Company, who passed him " a strong vote of thanks," and his statue and picture, thus 
 proving Cutler to have been the reverse of the miser described by Pope, whose satire, 
 however, has reached far beyond the Grocers' gratitude. The old Hall, which had 
 " a Gothic front and bow-windows," was renovated, in 1681, by Sir John Moore, who 
 kept his mayoralty at Grocers' Hall, and paid the Company 2001. rent ; and it was let 
 for the same object till 1735. The Bank of England held their courts here from 1694 
 to 1734. The present Hall was built upon the ancient site between 1798 and 1802* 
 (T. Leverton, architect), and thoroughly repaired in 1827, when the statue of Sir John. 
 Cutler, weather-beaten in the garden, was renovated, and removed into the Hall; and 
 the garden-front was enriched with the arms of the Company on each side their crest, 
 and a loaded camel, emblematic of the ancient conveyance of the grocer's commodities. 
 The Hall is spacious, and has a music-gallery : here are Cutler's portrait, a fine picture; 
 portraits of Sir John Moore and Sir John Fleet : and on the staircase are the Com- 
 pany's arms, painted on glass by Willement. The Grocers munificently support various 
 free schools, almshouses, exhibitions, &c. ; and the gifts for loans to poor members 
 amount to 4670/. 
 
 The Grocers' Company, originally Pepperers, next united with the Apothecaries, was incorporated 
 by Edward III., in 1435, as " the Mystery of Grocers :" among other privileges, they possessed the 
 management of the Kings' Beam, at the Weighing-house. Charles II. and William III. were masters of 
 the Company; and among the eminent Grocers were the Duke of York, afterwards James II.; George 
 Monk, Duke of Albemarle; and Sir Philip Sidney, at whose funeral the Company rode in procession. In 
 the reign of Henry IV., twelve aldermen were of the Grocers' Company at the same time. The frater- 
 nity also boasts of the patriotic Sir John Philpot; John Churchman, who founded the Custom House; 
 Thomas Knoles, who began the Guildhall; Sir John Crosby, of Crosby House; Sir William Laxton, 
 founder of Oundle School ; and Laurence Shireff, of Rugby; besides the vilified Sir John Cutler. The 
 Company sold their plate in aid of the defence of the City in the Civil Wars, and were famed for their 
 loyal and costly pageants. In the Great Fire, they lost nearly all their property, except a few tenements 
 in Grub-street, when they assembled in the turret-house in their garden: their Hall was once seized for 
 debt, in part from loans made to the City ; but the Grocers, like the rest of the Companies, recovered 
 their position before the Revolution of 1688 ; and in the year after, William became sovereign master of 
 the Grocers. By a charter of Henry VI., confirmed by Charles I., the wardens of the Company, or their 
 deputies, could, like modern excisemen, enter druggists', apothecaries', and confectioners', as well as 
 grocers' shops, and impose fines, and even imprisonment, for deceits ; always seizing the spurious articles. 
 
 The statutes of the ancient Pepperers (mentioned temp. Henry II., and probably a guild long before) 
 exist among the City archives. The Grocers first existed as a sort of club. Twenty-two Pepperers in 
 Sopers-lane, Cheapside (now a part of Queen-street), on the 12th of June, 1345, after dinner, elected two 
 of their number wardens, and appointed a chaplain to celebrate divine offices for their souls. Every 
 member at the feast subscribed 1. to pay for it, and contributions were then made towards the 
 chaplain's salary. 
 
 The Grocers met in 1345 and 1346, at the town-mansion of the Abbot of Bury, in 
 St. Mary Axe, now Bevis Marks ; in 1347, " at the abbot's place of St. Edmund ;" in 
 1348, "at the house of one Fulgeman, called the Ryngdehall," near Garlickhythe ; 
 where, and at the hotel of the abbot of St. Cross, they continued till 1383, when they 
 took up their temporary residence in Bucklersbury, at the Cornets' Tower, used by 
 Edward III. as his exchange of money and exchequer. The hall is spacious, and has a 
 music gallery ; the feasts of the Company being noted for their orchestra. 
 
 * The garden was then nearly severed in half for enlarging Prince's-strect. For this latter slice, 
 which cost the Grocers 311. 17s. 8d. in 1433, the Company received from tlie Bank of England more than 
 20,0002. (Herbert.)
 
 398 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Mr. John Gough Nichols, in a communication to Notes and Queries, Second S., xi. 
 p. 352, notes Grocers' Hall being used for the Lord Mayor's Feast in 1682 : 
 
 " This was the first time, as far as I have seen, that the City feasters deserted Guildhall on Lord 
 Mayor's day. It appears to be attributable to the perturbed state of politics. It is remarkable that 
 Grocers' Hall should be. preferred to that of the Merchant-Taylors, although the Lord Mayor [Sir William 
 Pritchard] belonged to the latter Company, and the spaciousness of their hall is well known. The 
 choice of Grocers' Hall was probably directed by its convenient situation. It was used annually for the 
 feast from this time [1682] till 1695, with a few exceptions, when the King came or was expected. In 
 1695, and two following years, Skinners' Hall was employed. Then Guildhall till 1703 ; in which, and 
 the two following years, and perhaps more, Drapers' Hall was adopted." London Pageants, 8vo, 
 1831, p. 118. 
 
 " 1 have not means readily at hand to trace further the locality of the Lord Mayor's feast after 1705 ; 
 but at the period previously in question, in the reigns of Charles II., James II., and William, Grocers' 
 Hall was in fact the mansion-house, or residence of the Lord Mayor during his year of office. In Some 
 Account of the Grocers' Company, privately printed by John Benj. Heath, Esq., P.E.S. and S.A., it is 
 distinctly stated at p. 31 (second edition, 1854), that after the Hall had been repaired and considerably 
 enlarged, subsequently to the Great Fire, Sir John Moore, who had contributed the sum of 500?. 
 towards the cost, " was the first Chief Magistrate who [in 1681] kept his Mayoralty at Grocers' Hall 
 [but his feast at Guildhall], and he paid the Company a nett rent of 200Z. for the use of it. It continued 
 to be let for the same object for many years ; and in 1735, as the Company's circumstances had much 
 improved, it was ordered by the Court of Assistants that the hall should not, for the future, be let but 
 to a Lord Mayor attached to the Company." 
 
 " But the year 1735 is not the date of the cessation of the occupancy of Grocers' Hall as the 
 mansion-house; for it had been converted forty years before to a purpose which some will esteem still 
 important. On the 4th Oct. 1694, it was demised for eleven years to the Bank of England, then first 
 established ; and it continued to be so employed during forty years, until the Bank removed to Thread- 
 needle-street in 1734 : so that the resolution of the Court of the Grocers in 1735, above quoted from 
 Mr. Heath, was consequent upon the repairs of their hall which ensued after it was vacated by the 
 Bank of England, not by the Lord Mayors." 
 
 John Dunton, the famous bookseller, of the Poultry, dined at the Lord Mayor's 
 Feast at Grocers' Hall, in 1693, when his Lordship sent " a nolle spoon" to 
 each guest's wife. It is still usual, in some Companies, for a spoon and fork of 
 bone to accompany the service of dried fruit and confectionery provided for the same 
 purpose. 
 
 3. DEAPEES' HAIL is in Throgmorton-street, where the Company settled in 1541, in 
 a large mansion built temp. Henry VIII., " in the place of clde and small tenements, 
 by Thomas Cromwell, Mayster of the King's Jewel-house," and afterwards Earl of 
 Essex ; upon whose attainder, the property was purchased by the Drapers and made 
 their " Common Hall," till about the period of the Great Fire, which was here stopped 
 in its progress northward. 
 
 Stow relates that his father had a garden adjoining 1 Cromwell's, and close to his south pale a house, 
 which, by the Mayster's order, was removed upon rollers, so as to gain a strip of ground, as Cromwell 
 had taken from other neighbours. " No man," says Stow, " durst go to argue the matter, but each man 
 lost his land, and my father payed his whole rent, which was vjs. vijd. the yeare, for that halfe which 
 was left. Thus much of mine owne knowledge have I thought good to note, that the sodaine rising of 
 some men causeth them to forget themselves." 
 
 Cromwell's House is figured on Aggas's plan with four embattled turrets. The 
 garden, which is well kept up to this day, became celebrated in 1551, when the pleasant 
 country lay open in its rear nearly all the way to Hampstead and Highgate. (See 
 GARDENS, p. 366.) 
 
 Although the Fire of London stopped at Drapers' Hall, it was " all consumed to 
 ashes ;" but the Company's property was saved by removing it into the garden, and 
 " watching it ther for seaven days and nights." The Hall was rebuilt by Jarmau, but 
 nearly destroyed by fire in 1774, after which it was partly rebuilt (as we now see it) 
 by the brothers Adam. It consists of a quadrangle surrounded by an ambulatory of 
 arches and columns; the front in Throgmorton-street is highly enriched with stone- 
 work; the Drapers' arms over the gateway have for supporters lions instead of 
 leopards. On the noble stone staircase is a marble bust of King George IV. The Hall 
 ceiling is embellished with Phaeton and the signs of the zodiac ; the screen is curiously 
 carved, and above it is a fine portrait of Lord Nelson by Beechey : over the master's 
 chair is a half-length portrait on panel (in oil, and therefore not contemporary) of Fit/,- 
 Alwin, the first Mayor of London, whom the Drapers claim as of their Company, wherefls 
 Stow and other writers describe him of the Goldsmiths'. In the wainscoted gallery 
 are full-length portraits of the English sovereigns from William III. to George IV., 
 the last by Lawrence; with the celebrated whole-length of Mary Queen of Scots and 
 her son James I., ascribed to Zucchero, traditionally said to have been thrown over the
 
 HALL-DRAPERS'. 399 
 
 wall into the Drapers' garden during the Fire of London, and never afterwards owned : 
 it has been copied by Spiridione Roma, and engraved by Bartolozzi. 
 
 " There is another tradition of this picture : that Sir Anthony Babington, confidential Secretary to 
 Queen Mary, had her portrait, which he deposited for safety either at Merchant-Tailors' Hall or Drapers' 
 Hall, and that it had never come back to Sir Anthony or his family. It has been insinuated that Sir 
 "William Boreman, clerk to the Board of Green Cloth in the reign of Charles II., purloined this picture 
 from one of the royal palaces. Some have suggested that it is the portrait of Lady Dulcibella Boreman, 
 the wife of Sir William ; but the style and costume are much older." The Crypt, No. 4, 1827. 
 
 In the Court-room is a marble bas-relief of the Company receiving their charter. In 
 the ladies' chamber, balls are given. In the Livery-room, among other portraits, is a 
 three-quarter length of Sir Robert Clayton, by Kneller, 1680 ; and a small portrait of 
 Thomas Bagshaw (d. 1794), beadle to the Company forty years. The windows of this 
 room look into the private garden, where are a fountain and statue. 
 
 The Drapers' Company was founded in 1332, and incorporated in 1364 ; they possess seven original 
 charters, finely written, and claim to reckon more lord mayors than any other Company, Strype states 
 87 years'. Their grant of arms, in 1439, is the only document of its kind of so early a date ; the 
 Heralds' College possessing none of the arms of the London Livery Companies. The Drapers' grant is 
 kept at the British Museum, and contains illustrative historical notices of the Company ; and the books 
 continue its history for above two centuries. In the Wardens' accounts are apprentice-fees, called " Spoon 
 Silver ; " " potacions at our Lady Fair in Southwark," &c. In an entry of 1485, pippins are first men- 
 tioned; 1491, "the aldermen of the taylo's were treated with brede and wine at Drapers' halle:" 
 1494, "for cresset-Stan's and banners, and bread, ale, and candell, in keeping xy. days' watch after the 
 riot at the Steel-yard," 11. 9d. ; " for a barge two times to the Shene (Richmond), to speak wth the 
 King ;" 1496, the Drapers " riding to the king at Woodstock," accompanied by " Mr. Recorder, Mr. 
 Fabyan," and other eminent persons ; 1509, 114s. " for xij. torches for the beryall of King Henry the 
 Vllth, weighing ccxxl'w and 1 quart'; 1521, the Drapers took the lead in settling the contribution 
 required by the Government front the Great Companies towards furnishing ships of discovery under 
 the command of Sebastian Cabot. 
 
 The Company had " the Drapers' Ell" granted to them by Edward III., for measuring the cloth sold 
 
 The Dress or Livery of this Company varied more than that of any other, and the colours were 
 changed at almost every election until temp. James I., when a uniform livery was adopted ; their ob- 
 servances consisting of election ceremonies, funerals, obits, and pageantries at state and civic triumphs. 
 At their last public procession in 1751, their poor carried a pair of shoes and stockings, and a suit of 
 clothes, an annual legacy. 
 
 The Drapers had a Hall in St. Swithin's-lane, Cannon-street, whither they removed 
 from Cornhill. The St. Swithin's-lane Hall is first mentioned in 1405; when we find 
 entered " a hammer to knock upon the table," the great parlour, the " high table" of 
 the dining-hall (then strewed with rushes), the ladies' chamber, and the chekker cham- 
 ber, all which at feasts were Imng with tapestry ; the kitchen had three fire-places. 
 The ladies' chamber (an apartment which the Drapers still retain) was solely for the 
 sisters of the fraternity, and in which they occasionally had separate dinners, instead 
 of mixing with the company in the hall. The married ladies only, and those of the 
 highest class, were the guests, " the chekker chamber being for inaydens." A ladies' 
 feast in 1515 included brawn and mustard, capon boiled, swan roasted, pyke, venison 
 baked and roast, jellies, pastry, quails, sturgeon, salmon, and wafers and ipocras. 
 
 The Drapers thus early gave more splendid feasts than any other Company, their 
 guests usually being the dignified and conventual clergy ; including the abbot of Tower 
 Hill, the prior of St. Mary Overy, Christchurch, and St. Bartholomew ; the provincial 
 and the prior of " Freres Austyn's," the masters of St. Thomas Aeon's and St. Law- 
 rence Pulteney. The sisters formed part of the usual guests, as did also the wives of 
 members, whether enrolled amongst them or not : and visitors of high rank were per- 
 sonally waited on by the heads of the Company. Among the items of the Midsummer 
 Feast, 1514-15, is perhaps the earliest mention of players as companies : "To Johan 
 Slye and his company, for ij. plays on Monday and Tewsday," including " Robert 
 Williams, the Harp, and Henry Colet, the Lut, iiij*." Among the rules " for the syt- 
 tyng in y e halle" was, " No brother of the frat'nite to presume to sytte at any table in 
 the halle tyll the mayr and the states have wasshed and be sett at the hygh table, on 
 peyne of iij s . iiij d ." 
 
 The Drapers' Company have very large estates, and are trustees of numerous bene- 
 ficent bequests, besides Almshouses. There are many females free of the Company, 
 who invariably come on the list to participate in the charities. The Earls of Bath and
 
 400 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Essex, the Barons Wotton, and the Dukes of Chandos, derive their descent from mem- 
 bers of the Drapers' Company. 
 
 Drapers' Hall had long been the usual rendezvous on Lord Mayor's day, according 
 to the poetical programme of the show repeated in many of Jordan's Pageants: 
 
 "Selected Citizens i' th' morning all 
 At seven o'clock do meet at Drapers' Hall." 
 
 And in much earlier times the feast had been held there, until some new kitchens were 
 completed at Guildhall in 1501. 
 
 4. FISHMONGEHS' HALL, at the north-west foot of London Bridge, was rebuilt by 
 Roberts in 1830-3, and is the third of the Company's Halls nearly on this site, part of 
 which was then purchased at the rate of 630,000?. per acre. It is raised upon a lofty 
 basement cased with granite, and containing fireproof warehouses, which yield a large 
 rental. The river front has a balustraded terrace, and a Grecian-Ionic hexastyle and 
 pediment. The east or entrance front is enriched with pilasters and columns, and has 
 in the attic the arms of the Company, and two bas-reliefs of sea-horses. The entrance- 
 hall is separated from the great staircase by a screen of polished Aberdeen granite 
 columns ; and at the head of the stairs is a statue, carved in wood by E. Pierce, of Sir 
 William Walworth, a Fishmonger, who carries a dagger. 
 
 In his hand was formerly a dagger, said to be the identical weapon with which he stabbed Wat 
 Tyler, though in 1731 a publican of Islington pretended to possess the actual poniard. Beneath the 
 statue is the inscription : 
 
 " Brave Walworth, knight, lord-mayor, yt slew 
 
 Rebellious Tyler in his alarmes ; 
 The King, therefore, did give in liew 
 
 The dagger to the City armes. 
 In the 4th year of Richard II. anno Domini 1331." 
 
 A common but erroneous belief was thus propagated : for the dagger was in the City arms long 
 before the time of Sir William Walworth, and was intended to represent the sword of St. Paul, the 
 patron saint of the Corporation, 
 
 The reputed dagger of Walworth, which has lost its guard, is preserved by the Company : the 
 workmanship is of Walworth's period. The weapon now in the hand of the statue (which is somewhat 
 picturesque, and in our recollection was coloured en costume) is modern. 
 
 The Company has numbered about fifty lord mayors, among whom was Sir William 
 Walworth, who, in his second mayoralty, slew Wat Tyler, commemorated in a pageant 
 in 1740 by a personation of Walworth, dagger in hand, and the head of Wat Tyler 
 carried on a pole. Next among the lord mayors was Sir Stephen Foster, who rebuilt 
 Ludgate prison ; also, Sir Thomas Abney, the friend of Dr. Isaac Watts. Dogget, the 
 comedian, was a Fishmonger ; and his bequest of a coat and a silver badge is in the 
 direction of this Company, who have added four money -prizes. 
 
 Thomas Dogget, who wrote The Country Wake, a comedy, 1696, was born in Castle-street, Dublin. 
 He first appeared ou the Dublin stage ; and subsequently, with Robert Wilks and Colley Cibber, became 
 joint-manager of Drury-lane Theatre. He was a friend of Congreve, who wrote for him the characters 
 of Fondlewife in the Old Bachelor, and Ben in Love for Love. Dogget's style of acting was very origi- 
 nal, and he was an excellent dresser. He died in 1721, and being a staunch Whig, bequeathed a sum 
 of money to purchase a coat and silver badge, to be rowed for on the Thames on the 1st of August 
 annually, to commemorate the accession of the House of Hanover to the throne of Great Britain : 
 
 " Tom Dogget, the greatest sly drole in his parts, 
 In acting was certain a master of arts ; 
 A monument left no herald is fuller, 
 His praise is sung yearly by many a sculler ; 
 Ten thousand years hence, if the world lasts so long, 
 Tom Dogget will still be the theme of their song; 
 When old Noll, with great Lewis and Bourbon, are forgot, 
 And when numberless kings in oblivion shall rot." 
 
 Written on a window-pane at Lambeth, August 1, 1736. 
 The Garrick Club possess an original portrait of Dogget. (See p. 249.) 
 
 The Court dining and drawing rooms face the river, of which they have a fine view* 
 with the Kent and Surrey hills. The banqueting-hall is 73 feet by 38 feet, and 33 
 feet high, and has Sienna scagliola Corinthian pilasters, between which are suspended 
 the arms of the benefactors and past prime-wardens of the Company ; at one end of 
 the hall are the royal arms, and opposite, those of the Fishmongers, in stained glass : 
 on the front of the music-gallery are emblazoned the arms of the City and Twelve 
 Great Companies : this introduction of heraldic insignia in a Grecian hall, being novel 
 but very striking, and especially when lighted up by eight chandeliers. Among the
 
 . HALL FISHMONGERS. 401 
 
 C'uriosities, besides Sir W. Walworth's dagger, is his funeral-pall, of cloth-of-gold ; the 
 sides embroidered with the Saviour giving the Keys to St. Peter, and the Fishmongers' 
 Arms; and the ends with the Deity and ministering Angels: here, too, is a plan of the 
 show at Walworth's installation as mayor, probably the oldest representation of a lord 
 mayor's show extant. Here also are eight curious pictures of fish, by Spiridione Roma, 
 skilfully grouped and correctly coloured. Among the portraits are William III. and 
 Queen, by Murray ; George II. and Queen, by Shackleton ; the Duke of Kent and 
 Admiral Earl St. Vincent, by Beechey j and Queen Victoria, by Herbert Smith. Here 
 also is preserved the old flag presented to Earl St. Vincent by the crew of the Ville de 
 Paris, in which the shot-holes have been carefully darned over and repaired. In the 
 Court dining-room is a splendid silver chandelier, made in the year 1754, weight 
 1350 oz. 14 dwts. 
 
 The several apartments were re-decorated by Mr. Owen Jones, in 1865. 
 
 The presidential chair of the Prime Warden (the Fishmongers have not a Master) is a relic of Old 
 London Bridge, and commemorative of the new one; bridge piers form the angles, arches support the 
 seats, and across the back are carved the old and present London Bridges and other Thames bridges. 
 On a silver plate in the back is inscribed : " This chair was made by J. Ovenston, 72, Great Titchfield- 
 street, London, from a design given by the Rev. William Jolliffe, Curate of Colmer, in Hampshire ; 
 and it was made entirely from the wood and stone taken up from the foundation of Old London 
 Bridge, in July 1832, having remained there 656 years, being put down, in June 1176, by the builder, 
 Peter, a priest, who was Vicar of Colechurch ; and 'tis rather curious that a priest should begin the 
 bridge, and, after so long a period, that a parson should clear it entirely away." Upon the seat of the chair 
 is incised: " I am part of the first stone that was put down for the foundation of Old London Bridge, iu 
 June 1176, by a priest named Peter, who was Vicar of Colechurch, in London; and I remained there 
 undisturbed, safe on the same oakpilesthis chair is made from, till the Hev. William John Jolliffe, Curate 
 of Colmer, Hampshire, took me up in July, 1832, when clearing away the old bridge, after New London 
 Bridge was completed." 
 
 The Fishmongers were incorporated 500 years since, and they existed as a guild two centuries earlier. < 
 By letters patent 10th of July, 37 Edward III. (1364), the fraternity was incorporated anew, by the name 
 of the Mystery of the Fishmongers of London. They were among the earliest of the metropolitan ' 
 guilds, and were amerced in the reign of Henry II. The earliest Parliamentary enactment on our 
 statute-books relative to fish is that of 1 Edward I., who was glorified, on his return from his Scottish 
 victory, in 1298, with a most splendid pageant by the Fishmongers, in which figured gilt sturgeons and 
 silver salmon, and a thousand horsemen. In the year before their incorporation the Company had made 
 Edward III. a present of money towards carrying on his French wars, the sum being 4f)l., only one 
 pound less than the Mercers, the highest Company. In 1382, Parliament enacted that " no Fishmonger 
 should for the future be admitted Mayor of the City," which prohibition was, however, removed next 
 year. Before the union of the Salt and Stock Fishmongers, they had " six several Halls : in Thames-street, 
 twain ; in New Fish-street, twain ; and in Old Fish-street, twain." (Stow.) Next, the Fishmongers' Com- 
 pany was formed by the junction of the two Companies of Salt Fishmongers and Stock Fishmongers, and 
 was incorporated by Henry VIII., in 1536. 
 
 The first Hall of the joint Company in Thames-street, in Hollar's view, 1647, has a 
 dining-hall across the original quadrangle : the whole pile was of stone, embattled, and 
 reaching to the water's edge ; it had Tudor-shaped windows and square wing-towers, 
 and altogether resembled a castle. In the Great Fire, 
 
 " A key of fire ran all along the shore, 
 And frighten'd all the river with a blaze." Drydcn's Annug Mirabilis. 
 
 The Hall was entirely destroyed, but was rebuilt in 1674, not by Wren, as generally 
 stated, but by Jarman, as proved by the Company's books : this edifice had a stately 
 river-front, with an entrance from Thames-street, and was taken down in 1831, the 
 Company having sold a portion of the land to the City for the new London Bridge 
 approach. The cellars had been let as " Wine Shades," from the year 1697, the entrance 
 being from the quay : here " the citizens drank their genuine old port and sherry, 
 drawn from the casks, and viewed the bridge-shooters and boat-racers." The " Shades" 
 were subsequently removed to the house of Alderman Garratt, who, as Lord Mayor, laid 
 the first stone of the present London Bridge. 
 
 Among the Trust-estates and Charities of the Company is St. Peter's Hospital, origin- 
 ally erected at Newington, but taken down in 1851, and rebuilt on Wandsworth Common. 
 (<See AIMSHOTTSES, p. 8.) 
 
 The Stock Fishmongers, from the earliest times, adopted St. Michael's Church, Crooked- 
 lane (rebuilt and enlarged by their two eminent members, John Lovekyn and William 
 Walworth), as their general burial-place, to which they added "the Fishmongers' 
 Chapel." St. Michael's was destroyed in the Great Fire, was rebuilt by Wren, but 
 was taken down in 1831 for the new London Bridge approach. 
 
 The history of the Fishmongers abounds with curious details of their trade and 
 
 D 1)
 
 402 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 mystery ; and their regulations, even to the crying of fish, are very minute. The ancient 
 market can be traced. The Fishmongers' statutes have not entirely fallen into desue- 
 tude : they had power in early times " to enter and seize bad fish ;" and to this day two 
 inspectors are employed by the Company, and report to the Court the number of unwhole- 
 some fish destroyed. The Charter by which the Company is now governed was granted 
 in the reign of James I. The property of the Fishmongers has greatly increased in 
 value ; and the Charity Commissioners, at their latest visitation, bore testimony to the 
 excellent administration of the funds of the Company. Curious it is to look back at 
 the empty enactment of 500 years since, " that no Fishmonger be Lord Mayor of this 
 City," and contrast it with the records which show that more than fifty of the Company 
 have been Lord Mayors. Stow tells us of " these Fishmongers having been jolly 
 citizens, and six Mayors of their Company in the space of twenty-four years ;" and in 
 our time Aldermen Sir Matthew Wood and Mr. William Cubitt, Fishmongers, each 
 filled the civic chair twice, in successive years. 
 
 On Feb. 12, 1863, the Prince of Wales took the first step towards becoming a member 
 of the Corporation of the City of London, by taking up his freedom of the Company of 
 Fishmongers, of which his Royal Highness's father and grandfather were also freemen. 
 On July 10, 1864, the Company had been incorporated 500 years : the day was Sun- 
 day ; and, on Tuesday following, the event was celebrated by a festival at Fishmongers' 
 Hall, the Prime Warden, Mr. James Spicer, presiding, and prefacing the toast of the 
 evening with a precis of the history of the Company. 
 
 5. GOLDSMITHS' HAIL, Foster-lane, Cheapside, back of the General Post Office, 
 built by Philip Hardwick, K.A., 1832-35, is the most magnificent City Hall, and the 
 third erected for the Company on this site ; its cost being defrayed without trenching 
 on their funds for charitable purposes. The architecture is Italian, seventeenth and 
 eighteenth centuries ; the building is 180 feet in front and 100 feet in depth, com- 
 pletely insulated ; the basement is Haytor granite, and the superstructure fine Portland 
 stone. The west or principal fa9ade has six attached Corinthian columns, the whole 
 height of the front, supporting a rich Corinthian entablature and bold cornice of extra- 
 ordinary beauty, continued all round the building. The east, north, and south fronts 
 are decorated with pilasters, which also terminate the angles. The plinth is 6 feet 
 high, and some of the blocks in the column-shafts and entablature weigh from 10 to 
 12 tons each. The windows of the principal story have enriched and bold pediments, 
 supported by handsome trusses, and the centre windows have massive balustraded 
 balconies : the echinus moulding in this story is much admired. The intercolumnia- 
 tions of the centre above the first floor, in place of the continuation of the windows of 
 the second story, have the Company's arms, festal emblems, and naval and military 
 trophies, floridly sculptured. The entrance-door is a rich specimen of cast-work ; the 
 Hall roof is entirely covered with lead. 
 
 This noble Hall is disadvantageously placed, but its sumptuous architecture is best 
 appreciated when seen from the rear of the Post Office. The ulterior is correspondingly 
 superb : from the vestibule branches right and left a grand staircase, on the balustrade 
 of which are four marble statuettes of the Seasons by Nixon ; in the central niche is a 
 marble bust of William IV. by Chantrey j and above are portraits of George IV. by 
 Northcote ; and George III. and his Queen, by Ramsay. The ascent is to a gallery, 
 with screens of scagliola verde antique columns, between which are statues of Apollo 
 Belvidere and Diana and the hart j from the dome hangs a magnificent chandelier : the 
 effect of the whole is fascinating and scenic, particularly when viewed through the four 
 piles of columns. The banqueting-hall, 80 by 40 feet, and 35 feet high, has a range of 
 Corinthian columns along its sides, which are raised on pedestals and insulated. The five 
 lofty and arched windows are filled with armorial bearings ; and at the north end is a 
 spacious alcove for the display of plate, lighted from above. On the sides is a large 
 mirror, with busts of George III. and IV. by Chautrey. Between the columns are 
 lofty portraits of Queen Adelaide, by M. A. Shee; and William IV. and Queen 
 Victoria, by Hayter. The Court-room has an elaborate stucco ceiling ; and here, be- 
 neath glass, is preserved a Roman altar (sculptured with figures of Apollo and a dog, ^ 
 and a lyre), which was found in digging the foundations of the present Hall. In the 
 Court-room is Janssen's portrait of Sir Hugh Myddelton (a Goldsmith), who brought
 
 HALL GOLDSMITHS'. 403 
 
 the New River to London : the picture is in the style of Vandyck ; 'Sir Hugh wears a 
 black hahit, his hand rests upon a shell, and near him is inscribed " Fontes Fodinaj." 
 Next is a portrait (said by Holbein), of Sir Martin Bowes, Lord Mayor 1545,- intro- 
 ducing the cup he bequeathed to the Goldsmiths' Company : here also hangs a large 
 painting of St. Dunstan (patron of the Goldsmiths), in rich robe, and crozier in hand; 
 in the background the saint is taking the devil by the nose, and the heavenly host ap- 
 pears above : the marble chimney-piece of this room was brought from Canons, and its 
 two large terminal busts are attributed to Roubiliac. The drawing-room (crimson, 
 white, and gold), has immense mirrors, and a ceiling exquisitely wrought with flowers, 
 fruits, birds, quadrupeds, and scroll-work, relieved with gay coats of arms. The Court 
 dining-room has in the marble chimney-piece two boys holding a wreath, encircling the 
 head of Richard II., by whom the Goldsmiths' incorporation was confirmed. 
 
 In the Livery tea-room is a conversation-picture by Hudson (Reynolds's master), 
 containing portraits of six Lord Mayors, all Goldsmiths : Sir H. Marshall, 1745 ; W. 
 Benn, 1747; J. Blachford, 1750; R. Allsop, 1752; Edmund Ironside and Sir Thomas 
 Rawlinson, both in 1754, the former having died during his mayoralty. 
 
 The Goldsmiths' Company, anciently the " Gilda Aurifabrorum," was probably of 
 foreign origin, and was fined as Adulterine, by Henry II. in 1180 : incorporated in 
 1327, 1st of Edward III. ; the grant being confirmed' by Richard II., in 1392. The 
 Company have altogether fifteen charters. They purchased the site of their present 
 Hall, with tenements, in 1323 ; their second Hall was built by Sir Drew Barentyne, 
 Goldsmith, and Lord Mayor in 1398 : it was hung with Flemish tapestry, representing 
 the history of St. Dunstan, whose silver-gilt statue stood on the reredos, or screen : 
 Sir B. Rede, when mayor, gave in this hall a feast, with "a paled park, furnished with 
 fruitfull trees and beasts of venery." The Hall, from 1641 till the Restoration, was 
 the Exchequer of the Parliamentarians, wherein was stored up the money accumulated 
 by sequestrations, or forfeitures of the Royalists' estates, as we read in the news- 
 papers of that day. The Hall was nearly destroyed in the Great Fire, after which 
 it was repaired and partly rebuilt. This hall was taken down in 1829 : it was very 
 large, and the interior was sumptuously decorated. 
 
 Cheapside, Old 'Change, Foster-lane, St. Martin's-le-Grand, and the avenues near Goldsmiths' Hall,. 
 :re the oldest localities of the goldsmiths' trade ; there \ 
 denyng-lane, Westminster, Southwark, Bush-lane, Lombar 
 
 were the oldest localities of the goldsmiths' trade ; there were also Gutter-lane, Seynt Marten's, May- 
 denyng-lane, Westminster, Southwark, Bush-lane, Lombard-street, Silver-street, and other places. Tho 
 moneyers, or sherempniers (such as cut out the plates to be stamped), occupied the Old 'Change and 
 
 Sermon-lane. The shopkeepers, or sellers of plate, " sat in the High-street of Chepe." The Goldsmiths- 
 always strove to prevent foreign workmen from settling in London, the best artists being Italians, 
 from Cavalini, who made the shrine of Edward the Confessor, to Torregiano, the maker of the superb 
 brazen monument of Henry VII. ; and in the fourth year of Edward IV. a trial of skill between English 
 goldsmiths and foreign ones took place at the Pope's-Head Tavern, Cornhill (now Pope's-Head-alley),. 
 which was adjudged in favour of our workmen. Various entries show the Company to have been both 
 operative goldsmiths and at the same time bankers. 
 
 Among the mayors of the Goldsmiths' Company were, Gregory de Rokesley (six times mayor) ; 
 Nicholas de Faringdon, appointed mayor in 1308 by Edward II., "as long as it pleased him;" Sir 
 John Chace, M.P., and Bartholomew Rede; Sir Martin Bowes, who lent Henry VIII. 3001.: Sir 
 Robert Vyner ; Sir John Shorter ; Sir Francis Child, banker ; and Sir Charles Buncombe. 
 
 The Goldsmiths' Pageants were of old very costly ; they formerly maintained a 
 eplendid barge, and they possess a rich pall or hearse-cloth. St. Dunstan's image, of 
 silver-gilt, set with gems, once adorned their Hall; and they drank his memory 
 from " St. Dunstan's Cup." 
 
 The Company's plate is very magnificent, and comprises a chandelier of chased gold, 
 weighing 1000 ounces ; two superb old plates of gold, having on them the arms of 
 France quartered with those of England, but without those of Hanover ; the cup be- 
 queathed by Sir Martin Bowes, and out of which Queen Elizabeth is said to have drunk 
 at her coronation. At the Great Exhibition of 1851, the Company awarded WOOL to 
 the best artists in gold and silver plate ; and, as a further commemoration, resolved to- 
 add to their treasures 50001. worth of plate of British manufacture. 
 
 The Assay possessed by the Goldsmiths' Company compels every article of manufacture in gold or 
 silver to be marked with the " Hall mark " before it leaves the workman's hands, and authorizes the 
 Wardens io break whatever article is below standard. The Assay, anciently "the touch," with the 
 marking or stamping and proving of the coin at " the Trial of the Fix," were privileges conferred on 
 the Goldsmiths' Company before the statute 28th Edward I. ; and they had an assay-office more than 
 600 years ago. " The same Act orders all goldsmiths' work to be stamped with the leopard's head, 
 that animal, before the adoption of the lion, being the armorial cognisance of England." (Herbert.) 
 " The touch-wardens and assay-master have large steel puncheons and marks of different sizes." The 
 
 DPI
 
 4(H CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 manner of making tKe assay is thus : " The assay-master puts a small quantity of silver upon trial in 
 the fire ; and then taking it out again, he, with his exact scales, that will turn with the weight of the 
 hundredth part of a grain, computes and reports the goodness or badness of the gold and silver." 
 Touchstone for Goldsmiths' Waret. 
 
 The Hall mark shows where manufactured, as the leopard's head for London. Duty mark is the 
 head of the sovereign, showing the duty is paid. Date mark is a letter of the alphabet, which varies 
 every year : thus, the Goldsmiths's Company have used, from 1716 to 1755, Roman capital letters ; 
 1756 to 1775, small Roman letters; 1776 to 1795, Old English letters; 1796 to 1815, Eoman capital letters, 
 from A to U, omitting J ; 1816 to 1835, small Roman letters, a to u, omitting j ; from 1836, Old English 
 letters. There are two qualities of gold and silver ; the inferior is mostly in use : the quality marks 
 for silver are Britannia, or the head of the reigning monarch ; for gold, the lion passant, 22 or 18, 
 which denotes that fine gold is 24-carat, 18 only 75 per cent, gold ; sometimes rings are marked 22. 
 The Manufacturer's mark is the initials of the maker. 
 
 The Company are allowed 2i per cent., and the fees for stamping are paid in to the Inland Revenue 
 Office. At Goldsmiths' Hall, in the years 1850 to 1863 inclusive, there were assayed and marked 85 
 22-carat watch cases, 316,347 18-carat, 493 15-carat, 1550 12-carat, 448 9-carat, making a total of 318,923 
 cases, weighing 467,250 ounces, 6 dwts., 18 grains. The Goldsmiths' Company append a note to this 
 return, statingthat they have no knowledge ofthe value of the cases assayed, except of the intrinsic value 
 as indicated by the weight and quality ofthe gold given in the return. The silver watch cases assayed 
 at the same establishment in the fourteen years numbered 1,139,704, the total weight being 2,302,192 
 ounces, 19 dwts. In the year 1857, the largest number of cases were assayed out of the fourteen. The 
 precise number in that year was 106,860, this being more than 10,000 above any year in the period named. 
 In a subsequent year the number was only 77,608. A similar note with regard to value is appended to 
 the return of silver cases as to the gold. 
 
 6. SKINNERS' HAIL, Dowgate-hill, rebuilt after the Great Fire, was refronted by 
 Jupp about 1790 : in the pediment are the Company's arms, and the frieze is orna- 
 mented with festoons and leopards' heads. The drawing-room is lined with odorife- 
 rous cedar, carved and enriched, and has been restored by George Moore, F.R.S., who 
 has also rebuilt the dining-hall, in Italian style with an enriched ceiling, and an Ionic 
 gallery for minstrels. The pediment bears the Company's arms. The staircase still 
 displays some of the many ornaments in fashion after the Great Fire. On the walls 
 above the wainscot are panels for frescoes. Here is the portrait of Sir Andrew Judd, 
 Skinner, Lord Mayor 1551, and founder of the Tuubridge School, the affairs of 
 which are managed by the Company. 
 
 Among Judd's bequests was his " croft of pasture, called the Sandhills, on the backside of Holborn," 
 in the parish of St. Pancras, which probably let for a few pounds at the time ofthe testator's decease, 
 but is now covered with houses, the ground-rents of which amount to several hundreds a year. At 
 the expiration ofthe present leases in 1906, the rental of this estate alone will exceed 20,000i. a-year 
 a vast income for a public school." Britton's Tunbridge Wells, 1832. 
 
 The Company also possess much property, especially in Clerkenwell, where, near the 
 Clerks' Well, was Skinners' Well, around which the skinners of London acted Holy 
 plays ; one of which, in 1408, lasted eight days, and was " of matter from the Creation 
 of the World." 
 
 The Skinners were incorporated in the first year of Edward III., 1327, and became 
 a brotherhood in the reign of Richard II. Twenty-nine Lord Mayors have been chosen 
 from this Company. They have been honoured by the membership of six kings, five 
 queens, one prince, nine dukes, two earls, and a baron. The existing charter was 
 granted by James I. : few of the members are now furriers. 
 
 Gradually the use of furs by male persons ceased, except in the case of peers and 
 magistrates for their state robes, ermine for kings, and fur trimmings for liverymen. 
 The Skinners were proud of the antiquity of their guild, and in 1339 disputed with the 
 Fishmongers for precedence, and a skirmish ensued. The municipal authorities seized 
 some of the ringleaders; they were rescued, and the Mayor with his officers mal- 
 treated, when " these desperate fellows were apprehended, tried, and condemned at 
 Guildhall, and executed in Cheapside, the king granting an indemnification to the 
 Mayor." In 1395 they seem to have carried on their business operations in the parish of 
 St. Mary Axe. Strype says that " in his days they removed to Budge-row and Walworth." 
 Choosing officers of the Company was thus described to Mr. Herbert : " The principals 
 being assembled on the day of election, ten blue-coat boys, with the almsmen and 
 trumpeters, enter the hall. Three large silver cocks or fowls, so named, are then 
 brought in and delivered to the Master and Wardens. On unscrewing these pieces of 
 plate, they are found to form drinking-cups, filled with wine, and from which they 
 drink. Three caps of maintenance are then brought; the old Master tries on the 
 first, and finding it will not fit, gives it for trial to those next to him; failing to fit 
 any of them, it is then given to the intended new Master, and on its duly fitting, he is
 
 HALL MERCHANT-TAILORS'. 405 
 
 then announced with acclamations as the Master-elect. Like ceremonies are repeated 
 with the other caps on the Wardens." 
 
 At a dinner at Fishmongers' Hall, December 9, 1858, the toast of " the City Companies " was ac- 
 knowledged by Mr. Locke, M.P., Master of the Skinners' Company, in virtue of an old award by which 
 the Skinners' Company and the Company of Merchant Tailors took precedence of each other in alter- 
 nate years. Both these companies were established in the reign of Edward III., and for a long period 
 were'at deadly feud on the point of precedence, their processions never meeting in the streets of the 
 city without a fight. In the reign of Richard III. one of these conflicts was so violent that several 
 persons were killed on both sides ; in consequence of this event the point at issue was decided by the 
 Lord Mayor of the time, who made an award by which the two companies were given precedence of 
 each other alternately, and this old regulation is still observed ; according to it Mr. Locke spoke to 
 the toast, though the representative of the Merchant Tailors' Company was present. Mr. Locke also 
 stated that the Prime Warden of the Fishmongers'Company then presiding was lineal descendant of 
 the Lord Mayor Boddington, who so long ago made the peace-preserving decision. 
 
 7. MEECHANT-TAILOES' HALL, Threadneedle-street, was built by Jarman soon after 
 the Great Fire. The banqueting-room is the most spacious of the City Companies' Halls, 
 and has a stately screen and music-gallery. Upon the walls are shields emblazoned 
 with the Masters' arms, and whole-length portraits of King William and Queen Mary, 
 and other sovereigns. The Hall has, from au early period, been frequently lent to public 
 corporations : the " Sons of the Clergy" anniversary meeting is held here ; a splendid 
 banquet was given here in 1815 to the Duke of Wellington, when he was invested 
 with the freedom of the Company. Among the great political feasts held here was 
 the dinner to Sir Robert Peel, May 11, 1835, at which the Duke of Wellington and 
 many Conservative members of the House of Commons were present. 
 
 Among the pictures in the hall, court-room, &c., is a head of Henry VIII. by Paris Bordone ; head 
 of Charles I. ; three-quarter and full-length of Charles II.; full-lengths of James II. and Queen Anne; 
 George III. and his Queen, by Ramsay; the Duke of York, by Lawrence; Lord Chancellor Eldon, 
 by Briggs ; the Duke of Wellington, by Wilkie : Mr. Pitt, by Hoppner. Here too are portraits of Sir 
 Thomas White, Master of the Company 1561, founder of St'. John's College, Oxford ; portraits of other 
 lord mayors, Merchant-Tailors ; and a modern picture of Henry VII. presenting his Charter of Incor- 
 poration, attended by Archbishop Warham, Fox Bishop of Winchester, and Willoughby Lord Brooke. 
 
 The Merchant-Tailors, anciently " Taylors and Linen Armourers," arose from a guild dedicated to 
 St. John Baptist, originally incorporated by Edward IV. in 1466, but re-incorporated in 1503 by 
 Henry VII., one of its members. 
 
 Their first hall, in Threadneedle-street, was the mansion of E. Crepin, and was called the " New 
 Hal, or Taylers' Inne," to distinguish it from their old hall in Basing-lane. This Hall was rebuilt, was 
 hung with tapestry of St. John Baptist, and had on the screen a silver image of St. John in a tabernacle ; 
 the windows were painted with armorial bearings ; the floor strewed with rushes ; from the ceiling hung 1 
 silk flags and streamers : and on feast-days the tables on tressels were covered with the richest damask 
 linen and glittering plate. Among the other Hall buildings was the Treasury, in the garden, for plate, 
 money, securities, &c. : the King's Chamber, for the reception of the royal personages, who visited the 
 Merchant-Tailors oftener than any other Company ; and the Summer banqueting-room, in the garden. 
 The Company's armoury is first mentioned in 1600, when there were state-palls and eighteen banners, 
 besides pavises and pennons. After the Great Fire, from among the Hall ruins was collected the 
 Company's melted plate (200 Ibs. weight of metal), which they sold to begin a fund to rebuild. 
 
 One of the most splendid festivals in the old Hall was that given to James I. and 
 Prince Henry in 1607, when a child " delivered a short speech containing xviii. verses, 
 devised by Mr. Ben Johnson;" and "in the Ship which did hang aloft in the Hall were 
 three rare men and very skilful, who song to his Majesty." James dined in the King's 
 chamber, where Mr. John Bull, doctor of music, and a brother of the Company, played 
 a pair of organs all the dinner-time. Then his Majesty came down to the Great Hall, 
 where " the three rare men in the shippe" sang a song of farewell, which so pleased 
 the King, that he caused the same to be sung three times over. 
 
 The Company are possessed of, and are Trustees to, great estates for noble pur- 
 poses, besides the eminent School which bears their name. (See MERCHANT-TAILORS' 
 SCHOOL.) In 1664, the scholars acted in the old Hall Beaumont and Fletcher's comedy 
 of " Love's Pilgrimage." 
 
 In the list of the distinguished freemen of the Company are eleven sovereigns, about 
 as many princes of the blood-royal, thirteen dukes, two duchesses, nearly thirty arch- 
 bishops and bishops, fifteen abbots and priors, and a long list of the nobility. 
 
 One of the most eminent tailors (professionally so) was Sir Johu Hawkwood, 
 " Johannes Acutus," who " twined his needle into a sword, and his thimble into a 
 shield," and became " the first general of modern times ; the earliest master, however 
 imperfect, in the science of Turenne and Wellington." (Hallam's Middle Ages.) Sir 
 Ralph Black well, stated to have been a fellow-apprentice of Hawkwood, and, like him, 
 knighted for his valour by Edward III., was also a Merchant-Tailor ; as were Speed
 
 he poet, free of this Company, on his petition that he had, at much study and expense, translated 
 Virgil into English metre, with annotations, and likewise 2Esop's Fables, both which he had presented 
 
 406 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and Stow, the historians, both tailors by trade. Stow enjoyed an annuity from 
 the Company, who keep in repair his monument in the church of St. Andrew, Under- 
 shaft. (See CHUECHES, p. 150.) 
 
 In the Merchant-Tailors' records, we find this gratifying entry : " 1654, 13Z. 6s. 8d. given to Ogilby 
 
 the 
 
 gil into Engi 
 to them fairly bound." Herbert's Twelve Great Livery Companies, vol. ii. p. 406. 
 
 Edward I. granted a licence which recognised the Merchant-Tailors as a guild; 
 Edward III. granted their first charter, and testified his regard for the Company by 
 becoming the first of its Royal members. His grandson and successor, Richard II., 
 and all the sovereigns of the Houses of Lancaster and York (excepting Edward V.), 
 became honorary freemen of the Company. They also confirmed its charter and ex- 
 tended its privileges. Henry VII. re-incorporated the Company under its present 
 title, and presented the new charter to the Master and Wardens from the throne. He 
 afterwards conferred upon them the great honour of presiding as Master at a festival 
 held in their Hall. At a subsequent date James I. was entertained here by this 
 Company on his accession to the English throne ; and his Majesty's two sons, Henry 
 Prince of Wales and Charles Duke of York (afterwards King Charles I.), were en- 
 rolled as honorary members. King James II. and Prince George of Denmark were 
 also honorary members of this ancient fraternity. At a much more recent date, the 
 Dukes of York and Cambridge, the Duke of Wellington, Sir Robert Peel, the Duke 
 of Kent, and Prince Albert, were admitted to the honourable freedom of this Company ; 
 and 011 St. Barnabas Day, June 11, 1863, the Prince of Wales was enrolled a Merchant- 
 Tailor. The representatives of the old English houses of Stanley, Percy, and Cecil are 
 honorary members of this Company ; as are Sir John Lawrence and Sir George Pollock ; 
 while death only deprived the Company of the honour of such names as Dalhousie and 
 the brave and good Havelock being added to the roll. 
 
 8. HABEBDASHEBS' HAI&, No. 8, Gresham-street West, is built upon ground be- 
 queathed to the Company in the reign of Edward IV. by a worthy citizen and haber- 
 dasher, with houses and premises, in the whole about half an acre of ground, of which 
 there is a plan among the Company's documents ; it is now part of Gresham-street 
 West, nearly opposite Goldsmiths' Hall. The ancient Hall of the Haberdashers, with 
 many of the Company's records and property of much value, were destroyed in the 
 Great Fire. This must have been a structure of some magnitude, from the Parliament 
 Commissioners having held their meetings in it during the Interregnum. The 
 Hall was destroyed as above, except the strong-room, in which the ancient muni- 
 ments and plate of the Company were deposited ; these were saved intact on that 
 occasion, the intensity of the ordeal to which they were exposed being shown to this 
 day in the molten wax attached to the deeds, though they were inclosed in a place with 
 walls seven feet thick during the fire. In the year after the Fire, 1667, the rebuild- 
 ing of the Hall was commenced by Wren. Herbert says : " It has nothing to merit 
 description ; indeed, it much needs rebuilding." The hall was lofty and spacious, had 
 a screen and music- gallery, and several large glass chandeliers; it was let in winter 
 for City balls and assemblies. However, Wren's poor work was redeemed by a fine 
 foliaged ceiling, which was destroyed some years since. There were, besides the 
 banqueting-room, houses, and offices, and a chapel. In some Corporation improvements 
 a portion of the front premises of the Hall in Gresham- street was removed to widen 
 the thoroughfare. A new entrance was then constructed, with two richly-carved oak 
 staircases ; besides a kitchen, with gas and other cooking-stoves, ovens, &c. 
 
 In a great conflagration, September 19, 1864, in which nearly half a million's worth 
 of property was destroyed, Haberdashers' Hall was damaged to the extent of 10,00(W., 
 besides the loss of historical relics : it had just been restored at 4000. cost. Of the 
 banqueting-hall remained only the four walls, of fine proportions, being about 60 feet 
 long by 30 feet in width. It was ornamented with portraits by eminent painters, 01 
 benefactors of the Company, and the arms of other distinguished members of the 
 Guild were emblazoned on the windows. The Hall has been restored. Among the 
 pictures, which were saved, are portraits of George I., George II., and Queen Caroline, 
 Prince Frederick, when a youth (father of George III.), and Augusta, his consort ; also
 
 HALLS S ALTERS', IRONMONGERS'. 407 
 
 portraits of benefactors, including Robert Aske, who left the Company 30,0002. to build 
 and endow almsbouses at Hoxton ; and William Jones, merchant-adventurer, who also 
 bequeathed 18,OOOZ. for benevolent purposes. Here are a small statue of Henry VIII. ; 
 a painting of the Wise Men's Offering ; also a portrait of Sir George Whitmore, Lord 
 Mayor in 1631, who entertained Charles I. and his Queen in his noble mansion and gar- 
 dens of Baumes, or Balmes, Kingsland-road, Hoxton. The wrought-iron gates are fine. 
 
 The Company's Court books extend only to the reign of Charles I. ; but they possess a 
 small vellum book of ordinances, which has a good illumination of St. Katherine, the 
 Haberdashers' patron saint. 
 
 The Haberdashers, or Hurrers of old, date their ordinances from 1372, and were incorporated by 
 Henry VI. in 1447. They were also called Milliners, from dealing in merchandize from Milan. They 
 were originally a branch of the Mercers, and Lydprate places their stalls together in the Mercery at 
 Chepe. Here were also haberdashers of hats, as well as of small wares. In the reign of Edward VI. 
 there were only twelve milliners' shops in all London, but in 1580 the town became full of them; and, 
 this encouragement of foreign manufacture doubtless led to the sumptuary regulations anciently issued 
 to the Companies and City. 
 
 The location of the Company's Charities is denoted in Haberdashers' Place, Street, 
 and Walk, at Hoxton ; Haberdashers' Square, Cripplegate ; and Court, Snow-hill. 
 The original Hospital, built and endowed with Aske's princely bequest, was a truly 
 Palladian design, by Dr. Robert Hooke, the fellow student of Sir Christopher Wren. 
 The present Hospital, by Roper, has in the centre a Doric tetrastyle portico leading 
 to the Hall and Chapel. The lodging-rooms of the almsmen, at Hoxton, are on each 
 side of a quadrangle, in which is a statue of Aske, whose bequest also includes a 
 School, in Bunhill-row. The Charities amount to between 30001. and 4000Z. annually. 
 
 9. SALTEBS' HAIL, St. Swithin's-lane, Cannon-street, the fifth hall of the Salters' 
 Company, was rebuilt by Henry Carr, architect, 1823-27: it has a handsome Ionic 
 portico, surmounted by the Company's arms. The Great Hall has a music-gallery, and 
 is hung with banners from the ceiling. Over the doorways are busts of George IIL 
 and IV., the Duke of York, and Nelson, and Wellington. In the Election Hall are por- 
 traits of Charles I. ; Adrian Charpentier, painted by himself, 1760 ; and William IIL 
 on horseback. In the waiting-room is preserved the bill of a feast to fifty Salters in 1506 
 II. 13*. 2%d. Their old plate includes a massive silver punchbowl, more than two 
 hundred years old ; and several loving-cups, one of which has been in the possession of 
 the Company since the year before the Great Fire. 
 
 In the Company's books is a receipt " For to make a moost choyce Paaste of Gamys to be eten at ye 
 Feste of Chrystemasse " (17th Richard II. A.D. 1394). A pie so made by the Companys cook in 1836 
 was found excellent. It consisted of a pheasant, hare, and capon ; two partridges, two pigeons, and 
 two rabbits : all boned and put into paste in the shape of a bird, with the livers and hearts, two 
 mutton kidneys, forced-meats, and egg-balls, seasoning, spice, catsup, and pickled mushrooms, filled up 
 with gravy made from the various bones. 
 
 The Salters' (Dry Salters) Company was not regularly incorporated till 1558; a 
 Salter attended the Mayor as chief-butler at the coronation of Richard IIL, 1483, and 
 was represented at the coronation of George IV. The original of the Salters' only 
 printed pageant was sold in Bindley's sale, in 1818, for twenty guineas. 
 
 The Salters' first Hall was in Bread-street, next their kindred tradesmen the Fish- 
 mongers, in the Old Fish-market, Knight-rider-street. This Hall was rebuilt. The 
 Company's third Hall was the town inn or mansion of the Priors of Tortington, pur- 
 chased in 1641, and afterwards " Oxford-place," from John de Vere, 16th Earl of 
 Oxford. It adjoined the dwellings of the infamous Empson and Dudley, temp. 
 Henry VII., who met in the garden of Oxford-place, now Salters' Garden. The fourth 
 Hall succeeded the Great Fire, and had an arcade opening into the garden; adjoining 
 it was Salters'-Hall Meeting-house, rented of the Company, but taken down in 1821. 
 In the garden, the growth of shrubs and flowers is marvellous, amidst the bricks-and- 
 rnortar and smoke, in the centre of the City : here rhododendrons bloom the second 
 year ; ferns and ivy flourish ; the medlar and fig fruit well ; dahlias and geraniums 
 abound ; and bulfinches and sparrows congregate. 
 
 10. IRONMONGERS' HAIL, Fenchurch-street, nearly opposite Mark-lane, built by 
 T. Holden, in 1748, has a handsome stone front, of Italian architecture, with Ionic 
 pilasters, and a well-proportioned pediment, in which are sculptured the Company's 
 arms, &c. From the vestibule, divided by Tuscan columns, a large staircase leads to
 
 408 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the banqueting-hall ; the decorations of which are in Louis Quatorze taste, in Jack- 
 son's papier-mache and carton-pierre imitative oak, aided by old carving?, and thus 
 economically effective. The Company's pictures consist chiefly of portraits of benefac- 
 tors, including Mr. Thomas Betton, a Turkey merchant, who, in 1723-24, left 26,OOOZ., 
 half the interest of which was to be expended in ransoming British subjects, captives 
 in Barbary or Turkey. Here also is a fine portrait of Admiral Lord Viscount Hood, by 
 Gainsborough, presented by his lordship, in 1783, when he was admitted to the free- 
 dom of the Company, in testimony of his distinguished naval services. One of the 
 hall windows contains a very curious whole-length portrait, in painted glass, of Sir 
 Christopher Draper, date 1639. 
 
 The Ironmongers* were first incorporated by Edward IV. in 1464 : their first " House," built upon 
 the site of the present hall, had a gate-house, the refectory strewed with rushes, court-chamber hung 
 with tapestry; and an armoury containing, in 1556, 17 back and breast plates, 17 pair of splints, 12 
 gorgets, 12 swords, and 11 daggers ; to which were afterwards added corslets, skull-caps and red caps, 
 black bills, and morris pikes, white coats with red crosses, 14 sheaves of arrows, &e. At the raising of 
 the army of the Earl of Essex, in 1642, the Company lent, " to be returned or paied for," 10 russet 
 armours, 10 pikes, 10 swords with belts, 10 head-pieces, 10 musquets with bandelores and rests, and 10 
 murrions. In 1523, the Company lent Henry VIII. a large sum of money, by selling some of their plate 
 and pawning the rest; and Elizabeth compelled the Company to lend her money, which forced the 
 citizens to borrow of her at 7 per cent, on pledges of gold and silver plate, &c. 
 
 In the list of Masters and Wardens is John London, Esq., 1727, who gave name to 
 London-street, nearly opposite Ironmongers' Hall. Now Wardens are chosen at the 
 end of the Election dinner, when the wafers are brought in : 
 
 1671, Sept. 21. " I din'd in the city at the Fraternity Feast in Ironmongers' Hall, where the four 
 stewards chose their successors for the next yeare, with a solemn procession, garlands about their heads, 
 and music playing before them ; so coming up to the upper tables where the gentlemen sate, they drank 
 to the new stewards, and so we parted." Evelyn's Diary. 
 
 The Company's pageants were very costly and characteristic ; one having Vulcan 
 and his forge, with smiths at work ; and an " estridge" (ostrich), ridden by an Indian 
 boy, from the common belief that this bird could eat and digest iron ; the supporters of 
 the Company's arms are salamanders, supposed, like iron, to be unhurt by fire. A feast 
 item of 1719 is "for playing on the tongs, 10*.;" and a meat breakfast in 1542 is 
 charged "for the cook, turnspit, and woman, for dressing, viijd." Funeral feasts were 
 also celebrated in the Hail. 
 
 Among the Company's charities are the handsome almshouses in the Kingsland-road, 
 originally founded by the will of Sir Robert Geffery, Lord Mayor in 1686. 
 
 The Company possess the Richmond Cup, date 1460, and regarded as unique ; Mazer Bowl, about 
 six inches in diameter, the silver-gilt rim inscribed : " Ave Maria gratia plena, Dominus tecum, bene- 
 dicta tu in mulieribus : et benedictus fructus ventris tui ;" the Ironmongers' Arms : Pair of Hour-glass 
 Salt-cellars, early sixteenth century. Also the following : Grant of Arms by Lancaster, King of Arms, 
 to the Company, dated 24 Henry VI. ; Confirmation of Arms, by William Hervy, Clarencieux, to the 
 Ironmongers' Company, May 28, 1560: Charter of Incorporation to the Guild or Fraternity of Iron- 
 mongers, March 20, 3 Edward IV.; the Pall given to the Company by " John Gyva, late ironmonger of 
 London, and Elizabeth, his wyffe;" the Master's Garland, of velvet, and ornamented with the arms and 
 crest of the Company, engraved on silver; Grant from the Prior of Rochester to Matthew de la Wyke, 
 of the Manor of Norwood, in Middlesex, A.D. 1241. To this charter is appended the very beautiful 
 seal (in green wax) of the Church of Rochester; two Volumes of the manuscript collections for a his- 
 tory of the Ironmongers' Company, compiled by the present Master, John Nichols, Esq., F.S.A. 
 
 In the banqueting-hall is a marble statue of Alderman Beckford, by Moore ; for- 
 merly at Fontbill, and presented to the Company by the Alderman's son, the author 
 of Vathek, when residing at Bath. 
 
 11. VINTNERS' HALL, Upper Thames-street, near Southwark-bridge, was rebuilt 
 by Wren, after the Great Fire ; when were destroyed the first Hall, in a quadrant, 
 given by Sir John Stodie, vintner, and Lord Mayor in 1 357 (Stow) ; and the adjoining 
 almshouses devised to the Company by Guy Shuldham, in 1446. The present Hall 
 has been refronted, and is wainscoted and richly carved. In the Court-room are whole- 
 length portraits of Charles II., James II. and his queen, George Prince of Denmark ; 
 and a picture, attributed to Vandyck, of St. Martin (tutelar Saint of the Company) 
 dividing his cloak with the beggar. 
 
 * In Ironmonger-lane, Cheapside, the trade first congregated ; and many eminent ironmongers were 
 buried in the church of the adjacent parishes of St. Olave, Jewry, and St. Martin, Ironmonger-lane, 
 strype subsequently speaks of the removal of "the ironmongers of Ironmonger-lane" into Thames- 
 Street, where the iron-masters have extensive wharfs.
 
 HALL CLOTHWORKERS'. 409 
 
 The Vintners were incorporated as Wine-Tunners by Henry VI. in 1437; Edward III. having granted 
 them, in 1365, a charter for the exclusive importation of wines from Gascony : the freemen, or " free 
 vintners" of the Company have the privilege of retailing wine without a licence. Stow tells us the 
 Vintners were of old called " Marchants Vintners of Gascoyne," and " great Bourdeous merchants of Gas- 
 coyne and French wines." In the reign of Edward III. Gaseoyne wines were sold in London at 4d., 
 and Rhenish at 6d., the gallon. 
 
 The Vintry, which gives name to the Ward, was part of the north bank of the 
 Thames, where Vintners' Hall and Queen-street-place are now built; it was at the 
 south end of Three Cranes-lane, so called from the implements with which the mer- 
 chants " craned their wines out of lighters and other vessels," and landed them : it was 
 so magnificent a building, that Henry Picard, vintner and Mayor in 1356, entertained 
 therein the kings of England, Scotland, France, and Cyprus, in 1363. After the Great 
 Fire, the Vintners' Almshouses were rebuilt in the Mile-End-road. This Company, 
 as well as the Dyers, continues to keep swans on the Thames (see p. 415). 
 
 12. CLOTHWORKERS' HALL (which just escaped destruction by the Great Fire), on 
 the east side of Mincing-lane, Fenchurch-street, was an edifice of red brick, adorned with 
 fluted brick pilasters. The Hall was richly wainscoted, and had life-sized carved figures 
 of James I. and Charles I. In the windows were painted arms of benefactors, including 
 Samuel Pepys, Master of the Company in 1677, who presented them with a silver 
 election-cup and cover, embossed and parcel-gilt ; the foot inscribed " Samuel Pepys, 
 Adiniraliti AngliaB Secretes et Societ. : Pannif : Lond. Mr. (Master) An. 1677." 
 
 The Clothworkers were originally incorporated by Edward IV. in 1482 as Shermen (Shearers), and 
 were united with the Fullers in 1528 by Henry VIII., the conjoined fraternity being then named Cloth- 
 workers. James I. incorporated himself into the Clothworkers, "as men dealing with the principal 
 and noblest staple wares of all these islands, woollen cloths." Among their pageants was that of Sir 
 John Robinson, Lord Mayor 1662-63, reviving " the true English and manlike exercise of wrestling, 
 archery, sword, and dagger ;" when at his mayoralty feast in Clothworkers' Hall, he entertained the 
 Kins', Queen, and Queen-mother, the Duke and Duchess of York. In the Great Fire " strange," says 
 Pepys, " it is to see Clothworkers' Hall on fire these three days and nights in one body of flame, it 
 having the cellars full of oyle." The Gazette of Sept. 8, 1666, announces the Fire to have stopped near 
 Clothworkers' Hall. The list of the Company's Charities is remarkable for its number of anniversary 
 sermons and lectures, and for its bequests for blind persons. The Clothworkers' Almshouses (now at 
 Islington) were originally in Whitefriars, on part of a garden belonging to Margaret Countess of Kent, 
 held by her of the prior of that friary. 
 
 Howes relates that James I., being in the open Hall, inquired who was Master of the Company ; and 
 the Lord Mayor answering " Sir William Stone," to him the King said, " Wilt thou make me free of the 
 Clothworkers ?" " Yea," quoth the Master, " and think myself a happy man that I live to see this day." 
 Then the King said, "Stone, give me thy hand; and now 1 am a Clothworker." 
 
 Clothworkers' Hall has been rebuilt upon an enlarged plan, Samuel Angell, archi- 
 tect, and was completed in 1860. The fa9ade is of Portland stone, and the style florid 
 Italian, rich in ornamentation. The main building includes a grand hall, or banquet- 
 ing-room, and a staircase-hall, to both which there is nothing equal in eflect in other 
 City Halls. The Livery and Court drawing-rooms, on the first floor, are highly 
 enriched. The banqueting-room is thus described : 
 
 The Great Hall is 80 feet by 40 feet, length and breadth, and 40 feet high in the centre. An order of 
 Corinthian three-quarter columns, with polished red granite shafts, and the pedestals and podium of 
 coloured marbles and granite, surrounds the walls ; the intercolumns being filled in with windows on 
 one side, and arch-headed recesses, chiefly for mirrors, on the other, the archivolts springing from richly- 
 ornamented pilasters. Two recesses at the principal end of the hall contain statues of honoured 
 members of the Company ; and the centre recess behind the president's chair encloses a buffet to exhibit the 
 cup of Samuel Pepys, and other plate. At the opposite end of the hall, behind the columns, is a gallery 
 for musicians, appearing as three separate balconies, in the intercolumns, supported by ornamented 
 shafts, forming a framework to mirrors. The mirrors can be raised sufficiently to pass in what is 
 required from the serving-rooms. Above the entablature of the order is a series of lunettes filled with, 
 stained glass ; and the arches over these groin into a deep cove to the ceiling, which last is formed in 
 one deep panel, divided into coffers ornamented with rosettes. The whole of the upper part of the Hall 
 is profusely enriched. The spandrel spaces of the cove have alto-rilievos personifying the principal cities 
 of Great Britain and Ireland : on the soffits of the arches, over the lunettes in which the stained glass 
 displays the arms of the Twelve Companies, are the names in each case of a founder of the company in gilt 
 letters in an ornamented panel ; and the cove is separated from the cornice by a roll moulding enriched with, 
 fruit and flowers. The chandeliers hang from the points of the groining at the summit of the cove. The 
 decorative features of the upper part of the staircase are clustered Ionic pilasters and archivolts with 
 enriched mouldings, and the architraves and cornices of the doors, which open on to the landings. The 
 angles of the square plan, pendentives, or spandrels, joining the square with the octagon, are orna- 
 mented with shields and branches of foliage. The octagon dome, 27 feet in span, starts from a bold 
 cornice with trusses ; it is divided into variously-formed compartments by enriched bands, all the prin- 
 cipal compartments being glazed with ground glass, with a pattern in light blue thereon. At the top is 
 a small open lantern. The eflect of the dome, with the method of lighting, is novel and good. The 
 doors and jambs throughout the building are of polished wainscot. The architrave mouldings and 
 cornices are of painted wood, with enrichments in carton-pierre. Abridged from the Builder, 1859.
 
 410 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Among the charities of the Clothworkers are : the " St. Thomas's Eve gift," dis- 
 tributed to one hundred and fifty poor freemen and widows, who are yearly clothed by 
 the Company, and regaled with a Christmas dinner. On St. Stephen's Day, is dis- 
 tributed the gift of Kobert Hitchin, a former member of the Court, by which forty 
 poor men and women, twelve of the parish of St. Giles's, Cripplegate, and the rest 
 free of the Company, are clothed yearly. On St. Luke's Day, the Master and Wardens 
 of the Company, attended by twenty aged freemen, clothed at the expense of the 
 Company, agreeably to the will of Sir William Lamb, walk in procession to St. 
 Michael's church, where a sermon is preached suitable to the occasion. 
 
 HALLS OP THE MINOR CITY COMPANIES. 
 
 Of the sixty-nine Minor Companies, nearly half possess Halls. Each Company has its 
 position in the order of precedence, commencing with the Dyers' and ending with 
 the Carmen ; but here the arrangement is alphabetical. 
 
 APOTHECARIES' HALL, in Water-lane, Blackfriars, at the east end of Union-street, 
 Bridge-street, was built for the Company of Apothecaries, in 1670. Here are several 
 portraits, including James L, Charles I., William and Mary ; and a bust of Gideou 
 Delanne, who brought about the separation of the Company from the Grocers'. Ad- 
 joining the Hall are laboratories, warehouses, drug-mills, and a retail shop for the sale of 
 medicines to the public. Here are prepared medicines for the army and navy. 
 
 On June 4, 1842, Mr. H. Hennell, the principal chemical operator to the Apothe- 
 caries' Company, met a terrible death in the laboratory -yard, by the explosion of be- 
 tween five and six pounds of fulminating mercury, which he was manufacturing for the 
 East India Company. 
 
 The Apothecaries rank as the fifty -eighth in the list of City Companies. Their arms 
 are azure, Apollo in his glory, holding in his left hand a bow, and in his right an 
 arrow, bestriding the serpent Python ; supporters, two unicorns ; crest, a rhinoceros, 
 all or ; motto, Opiferque per orbem dicor. 
 
 ARMOURERS' AND BRAZIERS' HALL, Coleman-street, is a modern building, with a 
 Doric portico, on the site of the Armourers' old Hall of the Company, incorporated in 
 1422 by Henry VI., who also became a member. They formerly made coats of mail ; and 
 made and presented a gilt suit of armour to Charles I. when Prince of Wales. In the 
 banqueting-hall is Northcote's picture of the Entry of Richard II. and Solingbroke 
 into London, purchased by the Company from Boydell's Shakespeare Gallery in 1825. 
 The Hall is characteristically decorated with armour. 
 
 The Company possess ancient Grants, with curious seals, some dating 500 years back. Also MS. 
 Volume, containing the marks allowed to the workmen Armourers' freemen of the Company, dated 1619; 
 the Richmond Cup and Cover, gilt, about 1460, an invaluable example of early art ; the large Mazer 
 Bowl, given between 1460 and 1483, by Everard Frere (the first Master, after incorporation of the Com- 
 pany ; an Owl Pot of stone, with silver mountings, temp. 15th century; a parcel-gilt Pot, 1574 : a Salt 
 and Cover, with initials, 1604 a fine specimen of early plate ; three elegant Wine Cups ; a unique collec- 
 tion of ancient Spoons, ranging from 1580 to the middle of the 17th century. Here is likewise a 
 collection of six dozen Apostles' Spoons, dating from 1560 to 1630, showing the changes in fashion ; 
 also the Forbidden Gauntlet (of great rarity) and other Cups. 
 
 BAKERS' HALL, No. 16, Harp-lane, Great Tower-street, is on the site of the ancient 
 mansion of John Chicheley, Chamberlain of London, and nephew of Archbishop 
 Chicheley. Among the pictures in the wainscoted banqueting-hall is one of St. 
 Clement, patron of the Company, incorporated by Edward II. in 1307. The Hall was 
 last repaired by James Elmes, who wrote the Memoirs of Sir Christopher Wren. 
 
 BARBER-SURGEONS' HALL, Monkwell-street, has its semicircular end supported on a 
 bastion of the City Wall, and was built a few years after the Great Fire, which 
 destroyed the original Hall : the street entrance had a shell canopy, enriched with the 
 Company's arms, and festoons of fruits and flowers : this picturesque entrance has been 
 removed. The Theatre of Anatomy, built by Inigo Jones, in 1636, escaped the Great 
 Fire, through being detached. 
 
 " The room contained four degrees of cedar seats, one above another, in elliptical form, adorned
 
 HALL BARBER-SURGEONS'. 411 
 
 with figures of the seven Liberal Sciences, the twelve signs of the Zodiac, and a bust of King Charles I. 
 The roof was an elliptical cupola. This, as Walpole calls it, 'one of the best of Jones's works,' was 
 repaired in the reign of George I. by the Earl of Burlington, and was pulled down in the latter end of 
 the last century, and sold for the value of the materials. ' The designe of the Chirurgeous' Theatre," 
 an oval, dated 1636, is preserved in the portfolio of Jones's drawings at Worcester College, Oxford."-* 
 Life, by P. Cunningham ; printed for the Shakspeare Society. 
 
 The United Company of barbers and surgeons were first incorporated by Edward IV., in 1461-2; and 
 it would even seem that, of the two professions, that of barber was, at this period, considered the most 
 respectable ; at, least, if we may judge from their adopting, and petitioning to be distinguished by, 
 the style and title of the Mystery of Barbers. The barber-surgeons, through whose immediate in- 
 fluence the charter was obtained from the king, were Thomas Monestede, sheriff of London in 1436, 
 and chirurgeon to Kings Henry IV., V., and VI.; Jaques Fries, physician to Edward IV.; and 
 William Hobbs, "physician and chirurgeon for the same king's body." Jesse's London and it 
 Celebrities. 
 
 In 1512, an Act was passed to prevent any besides barbers practising surgery within 
 the City and seven miles round, excepting such as were examined by the Bishop of 
 London or Dean of St. Paul's, or their assistants. In 1540 they were united into one 
 corporate body ; but all persons practising shaving were forbidden to intermeddle with 
 surgery, except to draw teeth and let blood ; whence Barber-Surgeons. 
 
 The Rev. John Ward, vicar of Stratford-upon-Avon 1662 to 1681, relates that when 
 he came to London, he lodged at the Bell, in Aldersgate-street, " to be near Barber- 
 Chirurgeons' Hall," then the only place in the metropolis where anatomical lectures 
 were publicly delivered. 
 
 In the Court-room, which has an enriched ceiling, is Holbein's celebrated picture of King Henry 
 VIII. presenting the Charter to the Company. This painting is 10 feet 6 inches long and 7 feet high, 
 contains 18 figures, nearly life-size, and represents a room in the palace hung with tapestry. In the 
 centre, on a throne, sits the King, seemingly thrusting the Charter into the hands of Master Thomas 
 Vicay, who receives it kneeling; the King's costume and ornaments are as fine as miniature-painting. 
 Around him are the members of the Court kneeling: Sir John Chambre, in a cap and furred gown; 
 the famous Dr. Butts, whose conduct in the scene in the play of Henry VIII. of the degradation of 
 Cranmer, while waiting at the door of the council-chamber, is so well drawn by Shakspeare. All the 
 heads are finely executed ; the flowered and embroidered robes, gold chains, jewels, and rings of the 
 chirurgeons, their moustaches and beards, are most carefully painted. Seven of the figures are livery- 
 men of the Company. Every part of the picture is most elaborately and delicately finished ; the colour- 
 ing is chaste, and the care and style of the whole admirable. Pepys tried, after the Great Fire, to buy 
 this picture, " by the help of Mr. Pierce (a surgeon), for a little money. I did think," he adds, " to 
 give 2001. for it, it being said to be worth lOOOi. : but it is so spoiled that I have no mind to it, and is 
 not a pleasant though a good picture." Diary, 29th Aug. 1668. 
 
 Next is a whole-length of Sir Charles Scarborough, by Walker, chief physician to Charles II., 
 James II., and William III. : he is lecturing in the doctor's scarlet cap, hood, and gown ; on the left 
 is the demonstrating surgeon, Anthony Bligh, in the livery-gown, holding up the arm of a dead sub- 
 ject, which lies on a table partly covered with a sheet. Next are portraits of Dr. Arris and Dr. Thomas 
 Arris, and Dr. Nehemiah Grew. Here, too, is a curious portrait of Mr. Lisle, barber to Charles II. ; 
 and of John Paterson, clerk to the Company, and the projector of several improvements in the City of 
 London after the Great Fire. Abridgedfrom the Art-Union, 1839. 
 
 Holbein's picture was painted in the 32nd of Henry VIII., when were united the 
 Barbers and Surgeons, formerly separate companies, which they again became in 1745 ; 
 the Surgeons then removed to their Hall in the Old Bailey, and subsequently into 
 the Royal College in Lincoln's-inn-fields. (See COLLEGES, p. 279.) Holbein's picture 
 has been engraved by Baron, and the minutes of the Company have the following entry 
 concerning the print : 
 
 " 27th August, 1734. Copper plate of Holbein's picture ordered of Mr. Baron, for 
 150 guineas, 50 guineas on finishing the drawing, 50 guineas on delivery of the plate, 
 and 50 guineas on 100 prints." 
 
 As an evidence of the estimation in which the picture was held by contemporaries, 
 Mr. Pettigrew quotes a letter from King James to the Company which runs thus : 
 
 " JAMES E. Trusty and wellbeloved, we greet you well. Whereas we are informed of a table of 
 painting in your Hall, wherein is the picture of our predecessor of famous memory, King Henry VIII., 
 together with divers of your Company, which being very like him, and well done, we are desirous to have 
 copied : wherefore our pleasure is that you presently deliver it unto this bearer, our wellbeloved ser- 
 vant Sir Lionel Cranfield Knight, one of our masters of requests, whom we have commanded to receive 
 it of you, and to see it with all expedition copied, and redelivered safely ; and so we bid you farewell. 
 Given at our court at Newmarket the 13th day of January, 1617." 
 
 The original cartoons from which this picture was painted are in existence. The 
 portraits were taken on four portions of paper, which are now in the possession of the 
 Royal College of Surgeons, and have been put together and made to form a picture. 
 
 Among the Barber-Surgeons' Plate is : 1. A Silver-gilt Cup, given by Henry VIII. hi 1540 : it is 
 richly embossed with the rose, fleur-de-lys, and portcullis, and lions' masks, in the style of Holbein
 
 412 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 from the bowl hang bells, and inside are the Company's arms. 2. A Silver Cup, with Cover, given in 
 1678 by Charles II.; the stem and bowl an oak-tree, with four pendent acorns, and the lid the Royal 
 crown ; royal badges, the Company's arms, &c. 3. Two Chapluts, with perforated silver oak-foliage 
 borders, the Company's arms, &c.; besides a large chased silver Punch-bowl, presented by Queen 
 Anne ; several tankards, &c. 
 
 Pepys wrote of the Silver-gilt Cup, 1622-23 : " To Chyrurgeons* Hall, where we had a fine dinner 
 and good learned company, many doctors of physique, and we used with extraordinary great respect. 
 Among other observables, we drank the King's health out of a gilt cup given by Henry VIII. to this 
 Company, with bells hanging at it, which every man is to ring by shaking after he hath drank up the 
 whole cup." The Company sold this cup with other plate in the 17th century to build their hall, but, 
 as Mr. Pettigrew pointed out, it was purchased by Edward Arris (Master of the Company in 1651), and 
 presented by him again to the Company. 
 
 The Barber- Surgeons are exempt, as formerly, from serving as constables or on the 
 nightly watch, on juries, inquests, attaints, or recognisances. After the separation of 
 the two professions, the barbers continued to let blood (whence the pole) and draw 
 teeth until our time : the latest we remember of this class, and with pain, was one 
 Middleditch, in Great Suffolk-street, Southwark, in whose window were displayed heaps 
 of drawn teeth. 
 
 BLACKSMITHS' HAIL, Lambeth-hill, Doctors' Commons, is now let as a warehouse ; 
 the Company's business being transacted at Cutlers' Hall. 
 
 BREWERS' HALL, No. 19, Addle-street, Wood-street, Cheapside, is a modern edifice, 
 and contains among other pictures a portrait of Dame Alice Owen, who narrowly 
 escaped braining by an archer's stray arrow from Islington Fields, in gratitude for 
 which she founded a hospital. (See ALMSHOUSES, p. 8.) In the Hall windows is 
 some old painted glass. The Brewers were incorporated in 1438. The quarterage in 
 this Company is paid on the quantity of malt consumed by its members. In 1851, a 
 handsome schoolhouse was built for the Company, in Trinity-square, Tower-hill. 
 
 In 1422, Whittington laid an information before his successor in the Mayoralty, Bobert Childe, 
 against the Brewers' Company, for selling dear ale, when they were convicted in the penalty of 201.; 
 and the Masters were ordered to be kept in prison in the Chamberlain's custody, until they paid it. 
 
 Among the records of the Brewers' Company is one relative to the introduction of pewter pots as 
 measures for ale, and the " sealing" (or stamping) of them by the City magistrates. There is an entry 
 in one of them made on the authority of Bobert Chicheley, Mayor, in 1423, in the reign of Henry VI. : 
 " That retailers of ale should sell the same in their houses in pots of peutre, sealed and open ; and that 
 whoever carried ale to the purchaser should hold the pot in one hand and a cup in the other, and that 
 all who had pots unsealed should be fined. 
 
 BRICKLAYERS' HALL, behind No. 53, Leadenhall-street, is now let as a Synagogue 
 for Dutch Jews. The Tilers and Bricklayers were incorporated by Queen Elizabeth, 
 in 1568. There are preserved by the Company two chests full of papers, descriptive 
 of their craft. They appear to have been at various periods embroiled with the Car- 
 penters as to the respective merits of brick and timber buildings. 
 
 " In 1647, the Carpenters sent a remonstrance to the Court of Aldermen concerning the Bricklayers, 
 and in 1650 they conveyed ' their reasons that tymber buildings were more commodious for this eitie 
 than brick buildings were.' In the following year, on 18th of February, they spent 2i. 9d. at the Three 
 Tuns in Gratious-street, with the Masters and Wardens of the Bricklayers' Company, to settle some 
 of their differences. After the Great Fire, instead of further squabbling, the two Companies united 
 against " fforreyne " workmen being allowed to work in the City as masters : all who were not freemen 
 were " fforreyners." By an Act of the Common Council, in Nov. 1667, the Bricklayers' Company (as 
 well as others) were bound to elect yearly a certain number of men to be ready on all occasions of fire 
 to attend the Lord Mayor and Sheriffs for quenching the same. 
 
 " In the earliest minute-book, 1580, nearly all the members of the Court made their 'mark,' instead of 
 writing their name ; and these marks are not simply a cross or an initial, but are similar to those to be 
 seen on the face of stones in old buildings in England, France, Germany, and Belgium. One Order, 
 passed on St. Lawrence's day, 1591, decrees ' that noe man shall reveale words spoken in the house.' 
 In the charter and oaths, dated 1684, it is ordered that no person shall be a liveryman who holds not 
 communion with the Church of England, or who ' frequents conventicles or any other unlawful meet- 
 ings !' There is one deed addressed to Sir Nicholas Bacon and others, containing stipulations as to 
 the trade, which gives them the right of claiming a farthing per thousand on all bricks made within 
 a certain distance. In the reign of George I. (1723) power was given to the company to fine those who 
 made bricks or tiles of bad earth. In one of the chests there is the early French edition of Serlio, 
 1551, and a black-letter Bible and chain. Note, in Builder, No. 595. 
 
 BUTCHERS' HALL, Pudding-lane, Eastcheap, was rebuilt after a fire in 1829, which 
 destroyed the old Hall. The Butchers were fined by Henry II., in 1180, for setting 
 up an unlicensed guild; but they were not incorporated till 1605, by James I. 
 
 CARPENTERS' HALL, on the southern side of London Wall, is one of the few City
 
 HALL CARPENTERS'. 413 
 
 Halls which escaped the Great Fire, which surrounded it.* The Hall was originally 
 built in 1429 : the walls of old London faced it, and beyond were Moorfields, Finsbury, 
 and open ground. The exterior possesses no traces of antiquity. The Court-rooms 
 were built in 1664, and the principal staircase and entrance-hall by W. Jupp about 
 1780 : the latter is richly decorated with bas-reliefs of carpentry figures and imple- 
 ments ; with heads of Vitruvius, Palladio, Inigo Jones, and Wren, designed by Bacon ; 
 and the street archway has also a fine bust of Inigo Jones, by Bacon. 
 
 The Great Hall has a rich and beautiful ceiling, put up in 1716, the supporting 
 pillars springing irom the corbels of the old arched timber roof. On the western side, 
 surmounted by an embattled oak beam, is a series of four fresco paintings, which were 
 discovered in 1815 by a workman in repairing the Hall. The subjects are divided by 
 columns painted in distemper : the groundwork is laths, with a thick layer of brown 
 earth and clay held together with straw, and a layer of lime, upon which the paintings 
 are executed. 
 
 the Synagogue : Is not tis te carpenters son ac panng as a ac-eer nscrj on, more or 
 
 lessperfect. The figures are of the school of Holbein; the costumes are temp. Henry VIII, Abovethe 
 pictures in the spandrel of the arch, are painted the Company's arms, and " shreeves" and " Kobard" of an 
 inscription remain, intimating it to commemorate the benefit of some sheriffs. The southern wall has 
 Borne decorative Elizabethan work. The eastern window has carved oak mullions and Renaissance bases, 
 and has some armorial painted glass, date 1536. There are a few carved wooden panels, besides the series 
 of corbels, some of good workmanship. F. W. Fairholt, f.S.A. 
 
 The east window is painted with the Royal arms ; the City arms, 1586 ; and the names 
 of the Masters and Wardens of the Company, from 1627 to 1684. 
 
 After the Great Fire, the Hall was let to the Drapers', Goldsmiths', Felt-makerr, 
 and Weavers' Companies ; and next, the Lord Mayors, Sir W. Bolton, Sir W. Peeke, 
 Sir W. Turner, and Sir S. Sterling, rented the Hall during their mayoralties. 
 
 The books of the Company contain many entries connected with the impressment of 
 workmen for the service of the Crown. Amongst the latest instances is this : " 1668, 
 22nd July Spent with Sir John Deuham, the King's surveyor, and others, about the 
 twelve carpenters charged to be impressed for the King's work at Whitehall, 35*. 6d." 
 
 The Carpenters' Company's earliest charter is dated 1174; their common seal and 
 grant of arms 1466; but a guild of carpentry is noticed in 1421-2. The earliest 
 entry in the Company's books is dated 1438 : they contain many proofs of their power 
 over the trade. Among the pictures are portraits of William Portington, master car- 
 penter to the Crown temp. Elizabeth and James I. ; and John Scott, ordnance carpen- 
 ter and carriage-maker temp. Charles II. The company also possess four very curious 
 caps or crowns (the oldest 1561), still used by the Master and Wardens. Among their 
 plate are three silver-gilt hanaps (1611, 12, 28), which are borne in procession round 
 the Hall on Election-day. Cakes are presented to the members of the Court on 
 Twelfth Day, and ribbon-money to them on Lord Mayor's Day. (See An Historical 
 Account of the Company, by E. Basill Jupp, Clerk. 1849.) 
 
 The custom of crowning the new Master and Wardens still exists in the Company, 
 and the crowns or garlands used for the purpose are the same which were in their 
 possession nearly three centuries ago. It was customary at one time for the Company 
 to invite certain official personages to the entertainment on the election day. The 
 King's Carpenter was a constant guest on that occasion and on others. The King's 
 Surveyor also frequently honoured the Company with his presence, and in this capacity 
 the books show that Sir Christopher Wren received an invitation to dinner together 
 with his wife. 
 
 * Carpenters' Hall was also nearly destroyed in a great fire, Oct. 6, 1849, when the end walls and 
 windows were burned out, and the staircase and roof much damaged ; while the burning building was 
 only separated from Drapers' Hall by the garden and forecourt. 
 
 t Nash, the Elizabethan satirist, mentions the chips " which Christ in Carpenters' Hall is paynted 
 gathering up, as Joseph his father strewes, having a piece of timber, and Mary his mother sitts spin- 
 ning by."
 
 414 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Among the Curiositiei possessed by the Carpenters are : Grant of Arms to the Company, by William 
 Hawkeslowe, Clarencieux, dated Nov. 24, 6 Edward IV. Book of Ordinances, 16th century ; containing, 
 also, the marks or devices used by the various Masters and Wardens of the Company. The Crowns of 
 the Master and three Wardens (date 1561). The Master's cap is of crimson silk, embroidered with 
 gold and silver lace. On it are represented, in silver shields, the arms of the City of London (with 
 date 1561) and the Carpenters' Company, enamelled in proper colours ; the Merchants' mark, and 
 initials of John Tryll, Master in 1561, are also on the cap. The Crowns of the Three Wardens are 
 very similar to the Master's, and are of the same date. Three Wardens' Cups, of similar design ; 
 these cups show the change in covers to plate drinking vessels, being no longer essential as a means 
 for avoiding poison. The Masters' Cup (date 1611), is silver-gilt, and of elegant workmanship and 
 design. The Beadle's Staff, which is said to be the handsomest possessed by any of the City companies, 
 is of silver, and consists of a square pillar and four shields, with the Company's arms and motto ; it 
 is dated 1 725. Here also is a Possett or Candle Cup, supposed to have been used in the families of 
 the Company on interesting occasions. 
 
 COACHMAKEES' HALL, Noble-street, Foster-lane, was originally built for the 
 Scriveners' Company, who, falling into poverty, sold it to the Coachmakers, originally 
 incorporated by Charles II., in 1669, as the Coach and Coach-Harness Makers. The 
 Company hold Industrial Exhibitions to encourage the workmen in the almost endless 
 branches of the coach trade to exhibit the best specimens of manufacturing skill, the 
 best working drawings of the vehicles now most in vogue, and the best designs for 
 improving their general convenience and simplifying their mechanical contrivances. 
 
 Coachmakers' Hall was noted in the last century as the resort of " a kind of religious Robin Hood 
 Society, which met every Sunday evening for free debate." (Boswell's Johnson.) But the most 
 memorable meeting ever held hi the Hall was on May 27, 1780, when the whole body of the Protestant 
 Association, by formal resolution, undertook to attend in St. George's Fields, on June 2nd, to accom- 
 pany Lord George Gordon to the House of Commons on the delivery of the Protestant petition." The 
 association accordingly met; the result was "the Riots of 1780," and a week's defiance of all govern- 
 ment. The flowers of rhetoric, however, continued long to bloom in Coachmakers' Hall. John 
 Britton, in his early days (1798), joined a debating society held here. 
 
 COOPEES' HALL, Basinghall-street, was handsomely built, and had a large wains- 
 coted banqueting-room. The Coopers' Company was incorporated by Henry VII. in 
 1501 ; and Henry VIII. empowered them to search and gauge beer, ale, and soap 
 vessels in the City and two miles round, at a farthing for each cask. At Coopers' 
 Hall were formerly drawn State Lotteries; the drawing of the last Lottery, on 
 October 18, 1826, is described in Hone's JEvery-day Book, vol. ii. Coopers' Hall was 
 taken down in 1866 for the enlargement of the site for the Guildhall offices. 
 
 COEDWAINEES' HALL, Great Distaff-lane, Friday-street, is the third of the same 
 Company's halls on this site, and was built in 1788 by Sylvanus Hall : the stone front, 
 by Adam, has a sculptured medallion of a country girl spinning with a distaff, emble- 
 matic of the name of the lane, and of the thread of cordwainers or shoemakers ; in 
 the pediment are their arms. In the hall are portraits of King William and Queen 
 Mary ; and here is a sepulchral urn and tablet, by Nollekens, to John Came, a munifi- 
 cent benefactor to the Company. 
 
 The Cordwainers were originally incorporated by Henry IV. in 1410, as the "Cordwainers and Cob- 
 biers," the latter then signifying dealers in shoes and shoemakers. In the reign of Richard II., 
 " every cordwainer that shod any man or woman on the Sunday, to pay thirtie shillings." Among the 
 Company's plate is a piece for which Camden the antiquary left 161. Their charities include Game's 
 bequests for blind, deaf, and dumb persons, and .clergymeji's widows, 1000^. yearly ; and, in 1662, the 
 Bell Inn at Edmonton was bequeathed for poor freemen of the Company. 
 
 The Cordwainers possess some curious old plate, and a charter, in which the name of Shakspeare, 
 as a party interested, occurs. 
 
 CUEEIEES' HALL, London Wall, was originally built in 1670 : the banqneting-room 
 had a Corinthian wainscot screen, with carvings, and paintings of Plenty, Justice, and 
 Temperance. Here Calamy's son, in the reign of Charles I., preached every Sunday, 
 to a little flock of Dissenters. This Hall, which stood among goodly trees, was taken 
 down in 1820, and a smaller edifice erected upon part of the site, the remainder being 
 covered with private dwellings. The Curriers serve their wine after dinner in mag- 
 nums, upon carved vine-leaf stands ; and the toasts are preceded by a prolonged whistle 
 on a small instrument, not emitting more than one note. The Curriers combined as a 
 Guild so early as 1363. Sir Matthew Wood, twice Lord Mayor, was of this Company. 
 
 CTTTLEES' HALL is in Cloak-lane, Dowgate-hill. The Cutlers maintained a dispute 
 with the Goldsmiths before Parliament in 1405. They were originally forgers of 
 blades, or bladers, makers of hafts, and sheath-makers, united as cutlers by Henry IV. 
 in 1425. In the Hall is a portrait of Mrs. Craythorne, who, in 1568, bequeathed the
 
 HALLS DYERS', FOUNDERS', GIRDLERS', JOINERS'. 415 
 
 Belle Sauvage Inn, on Ludgate-hill, to tbe Cutlers, for charitable purposes. Here an 
 old house bears the Company's crest, sculptured in stone, and placed within a niche 
 an elephant bearing a castle on its back. Cutlers' Hall was taken down in 1854, and 
 rebuilt. 
 
 DYERS' HAH, College-street, Upper Thames-street, was built about 1776, and re- 
 built 1857. The Dyers were incorporated in 1472 j their ancient Hall, in Upper Thames- 
 street (upon the site of Dyers' Hall Wharf), was destroyed in the Great Fire. 
 
 The Dyers and Vintners are the only Companies who have the privilege of keeping Swans on the 
 Thames: to catch and take up which, " Swan- voyages," termed Suian-upping, are made in August, 
 when the cygnets are marked, and the marks on the old bird renewed. The marks are cut upon the 
 upper mandible, in the presence of the Royal Swanherd. Thus, the swan-mark of the Vintners' is two 
 nicks, probably intended for a demi-lozenge on each side, and V for a chevron reversed. Besides being 
 heraldic, that these swan-marks have the initial of the word " Vintner" and form also the Roman 
 numeral V, is supported by one of the regular stand-up toasts of the day being, " The Worshipful 
 Company of Vintners, with Five!" The swans are not so numerous as formerly; atone period the 
 Vintners alone possessed 500 birds; the male is called a Cob, the female a Plu. (A. J. Kempe, F.S.A..) 
 The swanherds wear swan-feathers in their caps, and the uppings are still held; they were formerly 
 made by the Companies in their state-barges, with much festivity. 
 
 EMBBOLDEEEBS' HAH, Gutter-lane, Cheapside. Company>incorporated in 1561. 
 
 FOUNDEBS' HALL, Founders'-court, Lothbury, is now a Dissenters' meeting-house, 
 Stow tells us that " Lothburne, Lathberrie, or Loadberrie, is possessed for the most 
 part by founders, that cast candlesticks, chafing-dishes, spice mortars, and such like 
 copper and laten works, and do afterwards turn them with the foot and not with the 
 wheel, to make them smooth and bright with turning and scrating (as some do term 
 it), making a loathsome noise to the by-passers, that have not been used to the like, 
 and therefore by them disdainfully called Loth-berie." The Company of Founders 
 was incorporated by letters patent of the 12th of King James I., A.D. 1614. " All 
 makers of brass weights are to have each weight marked by the Company's standard, 
 and such of these weights as are of avoirdupois weight to be sealed at the Guildhall of 
 this City, and those of troy weight at Goldsmiths' Hall." Chamberlain (1770) says, " Ifc 
 is not only used for transacting the business of the Company, but likewise let out to a 
 congregation of Scotch Kirk, of which denomination there is but one other in England." 
 Founders' Hall was, in 1792, nicknamed " the cauldron of sedition." Here Waithman 
 made his first political speech, and, with his fellow-orators, was routed by constables sent 
 by the Lord Mayor, Sir James Sanderson, to disperse the meeting. The Company's 
 motto is " God the only Founder." They possess a beautiful glass cup on a 
 silver-gilt stem, taken at the siege of Boulogne, in the reign of Henry VIII., and be- 
 queathed to the Company by Richard Wesley, Master in 1631. 
 
 GIBDLEBS' HALL, No. 39, Basinghall-street, was rebuilt after the Great Fire, on the 
 site of the Company's ancient Hall. The Girdlers' or Girdle-makers' Company was 
 incorporated by Henry VI. in 1449, confirmed by Elizabeth, in 1658, and then united 
 with the Pinners and Wire-drawers. The gridiron or ffirdle-iron in their arms is 
 thought to be a rebus on the Company's name. (See Thoins's Stow, p. 107.) The 
 Company possess a document, dated 1464, by which Edward IV. confirmed the privi- 
 leges granted to them by Eichard II. and Edward III., among which was the follow- 
 ing : In the girdles then worn, silver and copper were used in their fabrication and 
 embroidery, and power was given to the Company to seize all girdles found within the 
 City walls with spurious metals. At the annual Election, the Clerk of the Company 
 crowns the Master with a crown embroidered in gold on silk with the Girdlers' devices ; 
 and the Masters with three ancient caps; whereupon they pledge their subjects in a 
 loving cup of Rhenish wine a picturesque ancient ceremonial. 
 
 INNHOLDEES' HALL, College-street, Upper Thames-street, was rebuilt after the 
 Great Fire : the Company incorporated 1515. 
 
 JOIXEES' HALL, between Nos. 79 and 80, Upper Thames-street, has entrance gate- 
 way piers of good workmanship, with leaden statues of river gods on them. There is 
 also a handsome cornice, with neat window frames and pediment enriched ; while the 
 Company's crest (a demi-savage, life-size, wreathed about the head and waist with oak- 
 leaves) surmounts the entrance to the Hall. In 1771, the building was described as
 
 416 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 "remarkably curious, for a magnificent screen at the entering into the hall-room 
 Laving demi-savages, and a variety of other enrichments carved in the right wainscot. 
 The great parlour is wainscoted with cedar." It is recorded that, in 1827, "the 
 Joiners' Company have a capital painting over the chimney of their Court of Assistants' 
 parlour, of a former court of assistants, small whole-lengths." 
 
 LEATHEESELLEBS' HALL, St. Helen's-pl:ice. Bishopsgate-street, was rebuilt about 
 1815, upon the site of the Company's old Hall, a portion of the hall of St. Helen's 
 Priory, taken down in 1799; it was wainscoted, had a curiously -carved Elizabethan 
 screen, and an enriched ceiling with pendants. Beneath the present Hall is the priory 
 crypt. (See p. 303.) In the Hall yard is a pump sculptured by Caius Gabriel 
 Gibber in 1679, in payment to the Company of his livery fine of 251. : the design, a 
 mermaid pressing her breasts, is very characteristic. The crypt, kitchen, and pump, 
 are engraved by J. T. Smith. The Leathersellers were incorporated by Richard II. in 
 1442 ; and by a grant from Henry VII., the Wardens were empowered to inspect sheep, 
 lamb, and calf-leather throughout the kingdom. 
 
 MASONS' HALL is in Masons'-alley, between Basinghall-street and Coleman-street. 
 The Masons, with whom are united the Marblers, were incorporated about 1410 as " the 
 Free Masons," and received their arms in 1474; incorporated 1677., 
 
 PAINTEE-STAINEES' HALL, Little Trinity-lane, Upper Thames-street, occupies the 
 site of the old Hall, destroyed in the Great Fire. The Painters, otherwise Painter- 
 stainers' Company, had its origin in a fraternity of artists formed in the reign of 
 Edward III., and styled a company, though not then incorporated. They called them- 
 selves Pamter-stainers, from their chief employment, which, in the words of Pennant, 
 was " the staining or painting of glass, illuminating missals, or painting of portatif or 
 other altars, and now and then a portrait ; witness that of Richard II., and the por- 
 traits of the great John Talbot and his wife, preserved at Castle Ashby." In the year 
 1575, continues Pennant, "they found that plaisterers, and all sorts of unskilful 
 persons, intermeddled in their business, and brought their art into disrepute by the 
 badness and slightness of their work." They, therefore, determined "to keep their 
 mystery pure from all pretenders," and were incorporated by Queen Elizabeth in 1582, 
 but existed long before as a guild. Hatton describes them as Face-Painters, History- 
 Painters, Arms- Painters, and House-Painters, and of the panels of the wainscot and 
 ceiling of their Hall, as " imbellished with great variety of History and other Painture 
 exquisitely performed," &c. Stow, writing before the Great Fire, identifies them on 
 their present site of habitation, or in 1598, saying, " In Trinity-lane, on the west side 
 thereof, is the Painter-stainers' Hall, for so, of old time, were they called, but now that 
 workmanship of staining is departed out of use in England." 
 
 In Painters' Hall the Belief Commission of the Plague met, in the days of Charles II., recorded in 
 John Evelyn's Diary, under dates Nov. 16, 1664, aiid July 3, 1665 ; while on July 4, in the latter year, 
 he says he went to the Lord Chancellor " to desire ye use of ye Star Chamber for our Commissioners to 
 meete in, Painters' Hall not being so convenient." Evelyn's letter to Sir Thomas Clifford is dated 
 "Paynters' Hall, Lond., 16 June, 1665." 
 
 Among their minutes are orders to compel foreign painters resident in London to pay 
 fines for practising their art without being free of the Painter-stainers' Company. Inigo 
 Jones and Vandyck were asked together to their dinners, as appears by an entry in the 
 Company's books. (Life, by P. Cunningham : Shakspeare Society.) Camden, whose father 
 was a Painter-stainer in the Old Bailey, bequeathed the Company 161. to buy a silver cup, 
 to be inscribed : " Gul. Camdenus, Clarencieux, filius Sampsonis, Pictoris Londinensis, 
 dono dedit ; " which cup is used at every Election-feast on St. Luke's day. Verrio and 
 Sir Godfrey Kneller belonged to the Company, as did Sir James Thornhill, Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds ; and Charles Catton was master of the Painter-stainers' Company in 1784; he 
 was known for his heraldic painting, more especially for his emblazonment of the Lord 
 Mayor's state coach. 
 
 Amongst the Company's pictures are St. Luke writing his Gospel, by Van Somer; Reason governing 
 Strength, C. Catton, E. A. ; Landscape by Lambert, with figures by Hogarth ; Queen Anne (medallion), by 
 Feilot ; the Fire of London, by Waggoner ; Charles I., copied from Vandyke, by Stone ; Charles II. and his 
 Queen, by Huysman ; Queen Anne, by Dahl ; William III., by Kneller ; Camden, in his tabard, as Claren- 
 cieux. Architecture by Trivett, or Trevit, Master in 1713 ; and some works of Hondius, Baptist, Sebas- 
 tian Eicei, Smirke, E.A., Houseman, Hals, and others. There is a portrait of Camden in the Hail, from
 
 HALL PARISH CLERKS'. 417 
 
 which an enamel was copied by the late H. Bone, R.A., for his Elizabeth Gallery. A card of invitation 
 to " accompany the Society of Painters, at St. Luke's Feast, kept on Thursday, ye 24th November, 1637, 
 at 12 of the clock, in Paynter Stayners' Hall, where you shall be entertained by us," and signed " An- 
 thony Verrio, Nicholas Shepherd, Godfrey Kneller," and " Ed. Polehampton, Stewards," was designed 
 by Sir Godfrey Kneller; and of this an engraving is in the Hall. The Painters' Company gave the first 
 idea for a Koyal Academy, and in the present century they have set the laudable example of reviving the 
 " art and mystery," so long laid aside by the other City guilds. In I860, they gave the first of a series 
 of annual exhibitions of Works of Decorative Art, by bestowing prizes on skilful artisans. 
 
 The Charities of the Company are chiefly to the blind ; amongst them is Mr. John Stock's " Charity of 
 Poor Lame Painters, more or less incapacitated from illness arising from the injurious effects of Painters' 
 colours, who receive pensions of 101. per annum." The Company also assist diseased and paralysed 
 Painters in going to Bath to drink the waters. 
 
 PABISH-CLEBKS' HALL, No. 24, Silver-street, Wood-street, is the third hall of the 
 Company. In the seventeenth year of Henry III., A.D. 1233, the Parish Clerks 
 became an incorporated guild as " The Fraternity of St. Nicholas," and " so excelled 
 in church music, that ladies and men of quality on this account became members." 
 In 1391, the Parish Clerks performed miracle plays at Skinners' Well. Henry VI. 
 was the head of the Parish Clerks' patrons, as appears by a MS. vellum roll in their 
 possession, dating from 1410 to 1525. From this MS. there was one leaf missing, 
 which has fortunately been recovered : it contains about 400 names, and has an illumi- 
 nated initial ; date of first entry 1523. 
 
 The Camden Society have published the curious Diary of Henry MacJiin, who 
 appears to have been in that department of the trade of a Merchant-Tailor, which 
 we should now call an undertaker or furnisher of funerals. The banners, &c., which 
 he provided were probably painted by men who worked as his journeymen. 
 
 Under date 1555, there is a curious entry : " The xxvij. day of May was the Clarke's prossessyon from 
 Yerdhall College, and ther was a goodly masse be hard, evere clarke having a cope and a garlande 
 with C stremers borne and the whettes playinge rounde Chepe, and so to Ledynhall unto St. Albro' 
 (Ethelburga), churche, and ther they put off ther gayre, and ther was the blessyd sacrament, borne with 
 torchlight abowt, and from thens unto the Barbur Hall to dener." " In the Catholic times they were an 
 important society, and many ecclesiastics, and other persons of the first quality, both male and female, 
 were of the number of their members. They attended all great funerals, at which their office was im- 
 mediately to precede the hearse, with their surplices hanging on their arms, and singing solemn dirges 
 all the way till they came to the church door. Their fraternity had the sole direction of the music em- 
 ployed in public worship." Cromwell's Clerkenwell. 
 
 Previous to the year 1560, the Parish Clerks met in the Chapel at Guildhall, for 
 even-song, and on the next day to dinner at Carpenters' Hall ; but two years after 
 this, they met in their own Hall, receiving seven persons into their brotherhood, and 
 attending "a goodly play of the children of Westminster, with waits, regals, and 
 singing." The Parish Clerks commenced the " Bills of Mortality," in 1592 ; and in 
 January, 1611, James I. re-incorporated them, in consequence of their brotherhood 
 having been dissolved, and their hall and property seized. Besides this re-incorpora- 
 tion, they were, about 1625, licensed by the Star Chamber to keep a printing-press in 
 their hall, for the printing of the " Bills," which they were bound to make up each 
 week, consisting of the births and burials, with some account of the diseases, age, &c., 
 of the persons dying. During the Great Plague, these " Bills" were very important ; 
 they are still to be seen in the Guildhall Library, as well as others, dating from 1657 
 to 1758. The " Weekly Bill" has long ceased to be issued from Parish Clerks' Hall, 
 and in its place (since July 1, 1837), the " Table of Mortality in the Metropolis" 
 has been issued from the office of the Registrar-General, at Somerset House. The 
 first Hall was at the sign of the Angel, in Bishopsgate-street, with seven almshouses 
 for poor widows adjoining ; the second stood in Broad-lane, Vintry ; and the present 
 Hall was erected after the Great Fire. Their organ, purchased in 1737, is placed in 
 the Court-room. They have a few portraits of benefactors, among which appears that 
 of William Roper, son-in-law of the celebrated Sir Thomas More. The east window 
 is emblazoned with the arms of Charles II. j and here are two small portraits : David 
 performing on the harp ; and St. Cecilia at the organ, accompanied by angels. 
 
 E B
 
 418 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 There was formerly published a very useful sort of Clerical Guide to the Parishes 
 within the Bills of Mortality, " collected by the Company of Parish Clerks," whose 
 arms the volume bears. 
 
 PEWTEREBS' HAH, No. 17, Lime-street, contains a portrait of Sir William Small- 
 wood, Master of the Company in the second year of Henry VII., and who gave them 
 their Hall, &c. The Pewterers were incorporated in 1474 : they assay pewter- ware, 
 and use a mark, or touch, registered on a pewter-plate. The Hall was formerly let for 
 lectures; and here Macklin, the actor, commenced his "school of oratory and 
 criticism," lecturing in full-dress, but to be laughed at by Foote and other wits. 
 
 From the records of the Pewterers' Company (much older than the Brewers' record as dated), we 
 find that the name of that guild was spelt Peutr's Co., so that the authorized pots originated in Henry 
 VI.'s time were made of pewter metal. (See ante, p. 412.) Up to the present day, the name of the officer 
 appointed by the City Lands Committee to stamp the publicans' pots and brand the wooden measures 
 is " Sealer and Stamper in Weights and Measures." 
 
 PINMAKERS' HAH, Pinners' -court, Old Broad-street, is on the site of part of the 
 Priory of St. Augustine, or Austin Friars. The Hall has been, since the reign of 
 Charles II., let as a Dissenters' meeting-house, and is now so occupied. The Pinners' 
 Company as an unincorporated guild is mentioned in the year 1376. In the llth 
 Charles I., 1636, it was incorporated; motto, " Virginitas et Unitas Nostra Fraternitas." 
 Pinmakers' Hall, according to Chamberlain, was formerly situated in Addle-street, 
 Wood-street (now Plasterers' Hall), but after the dissolution of Austinfriars (Nov. 12, 
 1539), according to Pennant, part of the priory was converted into a Venetian 
 glass manufactory, with James Howel as steward. Afterwards this manufactory 
 became the property of the Pinmakers' Company, " who," says Herbert, " occupied 
 the Austinfriars Hall, afterwards called 'Pinners' Hall Meeting-house.'" In 1771, it 
 was " the only meeting-house in London where the audience were not Calvinists, the 
 Independents meeting on the Sunday morning, and the Anabaptists on the Sunday 
 afternoon." 
 
 By more than one authority the Pinmakers' Company have been said to be " defunct," but upon a 
 reference to the Corporation Commissioners' second Report, it will there be found stated, that though no 
 returns appear in the Chamberlain's books for forty years past, yet "it is supposed that one or two indi- 
 viduals belonging to the Company are yet living." 
 
 PLASTEBERS' HAIL, Addle-street, Wood-street, Cheapside, is now occupied as a 
 warehouse ; some of the rich ceilings remain. Malcolm has engraved a curious coat-of- 
 arms, which he saved from the east window. The Company was incorporated by 
 Henry VII. in 1501, motto, " Let brotherly love continue." Among the curiosities is 
 an inscribed silver bell, the gift of Captain Abraham Stanyan, Master, 1647-48 ; a 
 silver cup or vase, with two handles, the arms of the Company on the bowl, and dated 
 1706 ; and the head of an ancient beadle's staff. 
 
 A statute was passed in the first year of the reign of James I., 1603, c. 20, which enacted that no 
 Plasterer should exercise the " art" of a painter in the City or suburbs of London : but an apprentice 
 was exempt from the meaning of the Act. The penalty was 51., but a proviso allowed the Plasterer to 
 use whiting, blacking, and red ochre mixed with size, without oil.' This was a very important statute 
 indeed, for it at once cleared up the several disagreements existing in 1575, between the Plasterers and 
 the Painters, the latter retaining their privileges by becoming incorporated in 1581. 
 
 PLUMBERS' HALL, Great Bush-lane, Cannon-street, is a modern brick building : the 
 Company was incorporated by James I. in 1611. 
 
 PORTERS' HALL is on St. Marys-hill, Billingsgate. The Fellowship was incor- 
 porated in 1646, and consists of tackle and ticket porters ; with the City arms for 
 their armorial badge, and the Alderman of Billingsgate ward for their governor. They 
 claim the exclusive privilege, under the appointment and control of the Common 
 Council, of unloading all vessels that come to the port of London laden with corn, 
 malt, seeds, potatoes, fruit, salt, fish, &c., at a fixed rate of prices ; which, being high 
 in comparison with the rates in the Docks and at the various outports of the kingdom, 
 were greatly reduced in 1852, to meet the Free-trade exigencies. 
 
 The Ticket-porter of our times, " Toby Veck who waited for jobs outside the church-door, with wind, 
 and frost, and snow, and a good storm of hail, his red-letter days, and was called Trotty from his 
 pace, which meant speed if it didn't make it" is the best character in Charles Dickeiis's Christmas 
 etory, The Chimes.
 
 HALLS SADDLERS', SCRIVENERS'. 419 
 
 SADDLEES' HAIL, No. 143, Cheapside, has an elegant stone entrance front, built in 
 1865, in place of a brick and stone frontage, surmounted by a large coat of the Com- 
 pany's arms (azure, a chevron, between three saddles, or ; crest, a horse bridled and 
 saddled ; supporters, two horses bridled), with the motto, " Our Trust is in God." The 
 Hall was rebuilt in 1823 ; Hatton, in 1708, described the former Hall " adorned with 
 fretwork and wainscot." 
 
 " The Saddlers' Company claims to be the oldest civic guild, dating its descent from the Anglo-Saxon 
 times. In the reign of Richard Cceur de Lion, a convention was made between the Canons of St. Martin's- 
 le-Grand and the guild and fraternity of the Saddlers. According to ancient statutes existing between 
 their church and this fraternity, the Saddlers were brothers and partakers of all benefits arising by day or 
 by night in all masses, psalms, prayers, and vigils, performed in the said church. Two especial masses were 
 granted them weekly; one for the living, another lor the dead, aud freely and honourably the bells of the 
 church should toll, and a procession formed to convey the departed brother to his last resting-place on 
 earth. The Canons of St. Martin's were also to assist in the house of the Saddlers ; and the latter, 
 
 We have already seen that the Company conducted funerals 700 years ago : they 
 possess a rich pall of crimson velvet, the centre yellow silk. On one side is embroi- 
 dered, in raised gold work, " In te, Domine, speram" in old English characters ; on 
 the other side is worked, " Ne me confunde in <zternum." The head and foot of the 
 pall have the Company's arms, four kneeling angels surrounding the letters " I.H.S.," 
 encircled by a glory, and bordered by a broad gold fringe. 
 
 In the Hall is Frye's whole-length portrait of Frederiqk Prince of Wales (father of 
 George III.), who became Master of the Company from having accepted an invitation 
 to witness the Lord Mayor's Show from their stand. 
 
 Sir Richard Blackmore, schoolmaster, physician, and small poet, "the Cheapside Knight" and "the 
 City Bard," and the general butt of the wits of his day, probably wrote some poems recited at Saddlers' 
 Hall ; whence Sir Samuel Garth addressed these .lines : " To the merry Poetaster at Saddlers' Hall, in 
 Cheapside. 
 
 " Unwieldy Pedant, let thy awkward Muse 
 
 With Censures praise, with Flatteries abuse, 
 
 To lash, and not be felt, in Thee's an Art ; 
 
 Thou ne'er mad'st any but thy School-boys smart. 
 
 Then be advis'd, and scribble not agen ; 
 
 Thou'rt fashion'd for a Flail, and not a Pen. 
 
 If B I's immortal Wit thou would'st descry, 
 
 Pretend 'tis he that writ thy Poetry. 
 
 Thy feeble Satire ne'er can do him wrong; 
 
 Thy Poems and thy Patients live not long." 
 
 " To Sir K Bl , on the two Wooden Horses before Saddlers' Hall : 
 
 "'Twas kindly done of the good-natured Cits, 
 To place before thy door a brace of tits." Tom Sroicn. 
 
 Charles II., by charter, dated December 24th, in the thirty-sixth year of his reign, 
 granted several privileges; and this the Company consider their governing charter. 
 It is a very wealthy guild, and on August 30, 1859, was laid the first stone of 
 " Honnor's Home," for poor Freemen and widows, at Spring Grove, near Isleworth. 
 
 SCBIVESERS' HALL. The Scriveners are an ancient guild, evident from the fact 
 that, in 1483, they sent four members, in murry-coloured coats, to attend, with other 
 Companies, the entry of Richard III. into London. In 1485, they sent twenty men to 
 attend the marching watch of the City ; while on August 31, in the same year, they 
 sent four members (among other guilds) to welcome Henry VII. on his entering 
 London ; and in 1487, on his return from Kenil worth. 
 
 The Scriveners were anciently denominated " The Writers of the Court Letter of 
 the City of London," but in the reign of James I., 1616, they were incorporated. 
 Being at one period a very wealthy guild, they built themselves a fine Hall in Noble- 
 street, near St. Martin's-le-Grand ; but becoming in time much reduced, they were 
 compelled to sell the building to the Company of Coachmakers, in whose hands it now 
 remains. 
 
 Mr. Hyde Clarke has thrown much light on the connexion of Milton with the 
 Scriveners' Company. Their records tell us, that on Feb. 27, 1599, John Milton, son 
 of Richard Milton, of Stanston, co. Oxon, and late apprentice to James Colbron, citizen 
 and writer of the Court Letter of London (Scrivener), was admitted to the freedom of 
 
 E E 2
 
 420 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the Company. The grandfather and father of the poet are the two personages here 
 alluded to. The latter, who appears to have only served four years' apprenticeship, 
 instead of seven,* commenced business in 1599, and married about a twelvemonth after. 
 
 Sir Robert Clayton, Knight, Lord Mayor in the year 1680, was also a Scrivener. 
 He is often alluded to in the Diary of Evelyn, and appears to have been a wealthy and 
 worthy man, " there never having been any who, for ye stateliness of his palace, pro- 
 digious feasting, and magnificence exceeded him." 
 
 Of another Scrivener, John Ellis, who died Dec. 31, 1791, at the venerable age of 
 ninety-four, 
 
 Johnson once remarked to Boswcll, " It is wonderful, sir, what is to be found in London. The most 
 literary conversation that I ever enjoyed was at the table of Jack Ellis, a money-scrivener, behind the 
 Boyal Exchange, with whom I, at one period, used to dine generally once a week." Boswell adds, 
 ' There is a good engraved portrait of him by Pether, from a picture by Frye, which hangs in the hall of 
 the Scriveners' Company." 
 
 The business of a Scrivener was the making of leases, writings, assignments, and 
 money securities, by which he became, as it were, a banker and a conveyancer ; but the 
 designation money-scrivener having expired with the above Ellis, the business is now 
 transacted by attorneys and others. The Company, however, still retain the title. 
 
 STATIONEES' HALL, Stationers' Hall-court, Ludgate-hill, occupies the site of Bur- 
 gaveny House, whither the Stationers' Company removed in 1611 : it was destroyed in 
 the Great Fire;"]" after which the present Hall was erected; the eastern front was 
 cased with stone about the year 1800. 
 
 The Company of Stationers retain their original character intact, and is the only 
 London Company restricted to the members of its own craft ; or members of the 
 bookselling, stationery, printing, bookbinding, printselling, or engraving trades; while 
 it practises " the mystery or art " to which its ancient title nominally refers. 
 
 The Company existed as a fraternity long 1 previous to the introduction of Printing. Their 
 first Hall was in Milk-street. They were first incorporated May 4, 1657 (3rd and 4th Philip and 
 Mary): this charter was renewed by Elizabeth in 1588; amplified by Charles II. 1684; and con- 
 firmed by William and Mary, 1690, which is the existing charter of the Company. These charters 
 gave them inquisitorial privileges of search and seizure of obnoxious books ; printers were compelled to 
 serve their time to a member of the Company ; and every publication, from a Bible to a ballad, was 
 required to be "Entered at Stationers' Hall." The first entry on the books is 1558: "To William 
 Pekerynge, a ballad, called A Hyse and Wake, 4d." The Registers of the Stationers' Company are valu- 
 able authorities. Mr. Payne Collier has given many quotations from them in the two volumes which 
 he edited for the Shakspeare Society in 1848 and 1849 ; and has continued the extracts, with illustrations 
 and anecdotes (from 1687), in Notes and Queries, 2nd a., vol. xii.; 3rd a., vol. i. & ii., et seq. 
 
 The Company likewise had granted to them by James I., in 1603, the privilege 
 of the sole printing of Frymers, Psalters, and Psalms ; as well as " almanacks and 
 prognostications, and the Latin books used in the grammar-schools." Under the 
 Copyright Act, the proprietor of every published work is required to register his claim 
 for his own protection, in the books of the Stationers' Company, before any legal pro- 
 ceedings can take place ; the fee is 5*. To each apprentice bound at the Hall is given 
 a Bible, which excellent custom originated in the bequest of Thomas Parkhurst, Master 
 of the Company in 1683; he likewise left 371. to purchase annually Bibles with 
 Psalms, to be given to the poor. In corrupt times, the Company aided the Star- 
 chamber, and hence they became stigmatized as its "literary constables." Their 
 authority has been disputed ; for, in the last century, Thomas Carnan, the bookseller, 
 of St. Paul's Churchyard, contested with the Company the exclusive right to publish 
 almanacks : Lord North sided with the Stationers, but the eloquence of Erskine 
 strongly controverted their claim. 
 
 Their almanacks, to this day, maintain their superior accuracy and trustworthiness, 
 and adaptation to the requirements of the day. Thus, we have Francis Moore's 
 
 * In confirmation of this, an entry in the Scriveners' records tells us that James Colbron was ad- 
 mitted into the Company, April 1, 1595. The question remains whether Milton was a " turnover," from 
 some other Scrivener to Colbron. Mr. Clarke adds, that he discovered that the Scriveners "had no 
 especial custom or exemption of a shorter apprenticeship than seven years, and that Milton must have 
 served seven years with one master or another." He was born in 1578, and died in March, 1646-7. Sarah, 
 his wife, died April 3, 1637. The poet was born December 9, 1608. 
 
 t Hansard's Typographia contains a view of Burgaveny House as altered for the Hall of the Sta- 
 tioners, printed from the original block engraved for the Company.
 
 HALL STATIONERS'. 421 
 
 Almanack, with the fullest account of Eclipses and Astronomical Phenomena; the Lady's 
 and Gentleman's Diary, commenced in the last century, contains Papers and Questions 
 contributed by some of the first mathematicians of the day, as well as Enigmas and 
 Charades ; John Partridge's Almanack, which Swift thought to extinguish in 1709, is 
 still published ; as is the Sheet Almanack commenced by Vincent Wing, the astronomer, 
 who published for the Company, also, a book almanack : his portrait hangs in the 
 Hall. Among the more popular of the late additions to the Company's list are 
 almanacks for clergymen, parochial officers, and parish clerks; and a Gardener's 
 Almanack, the first of which class was published by John Evelyn, the diarist. 
 
 In the Hall, on Almanack-day, in November, are published the Almanacks printed 
 for the Company. The Stationers employed Lilly, Partridge, and Moore : Lilly's 
 hieroglyphics were stolen from old monkish manuscripts : Moore it is stated has stolen 
 them from him. The Company's astrological and other predictions in their almanacks 
 continued, though modified, to our times ; one year they experimentally omitted from 
 Moore's Almanack the column on the moon's influence on the parts of the human 
 body, when most of the copies were returned upon their hands. (Baily, on the Nau- 
 tical Almanac.) The invested capital of the Company is upwards of 40,OOOZ., divided 
 into shares ; but their only publications are almanacks and a Latin Gradus. 
 
 The Court-room has some fine carvings, attributed to Gibbons ; and at the extremity 
 is West's touching picture of King Alfred dividing a loaf with St. Cuthbert the 
 pilgrim, presented by Alderman Boydell, Master of the Company ; and of whom here 
 is a portrait as lord mayor, with allegorical absurdities, by Graham. In the Stock-room 
 and Hall are excellent portraits of Prior and Steele, presented by John Nichols ; of 
 Samuel Richardson, the novelist, and his wife, by Highmore (Richardson was Master 
 of the Company in 1754) ; of Vincent Wing ; of John Bunyan, presented by Mr. 
 Hobbs, the singer ; a half-length of Bishop Hoadley ; Robert Nelson, by Kneller ; 
 Andrew Strahan, and his father, William Strahan ; and a bust of William Bowyer, 
 " last of the learned printers," with a grateful inscription written by himself. The 
 Hall has also a large window filled with painted armorial glass. Here was held for 
 nearly twenty years, the Music Feast, on St. Cecilia's day, 22nd of November, for which 
 Dryden wrote his celebrated Ode, last performed here in 1703. 
 
 The Company's Charities consist chiefly of pensions ; and foremost among the bene- 
 factors are the respected names of Guy, Bowyer, Boydell, and Strahan. Over the 
 gate in Stationers' Hall-court are the arms, the Bible, the glory, and the dove, and the 
 motto, " Verbum Domini manet in sternum," bespeaking the holier labours of the Com- 
 panv ; and the notice-boards below, the benevolence of its wealthier members. 
 
 From early times, the Stationers' Company has been celebrated for its sumptuous 
 state, and its attendance upon the Lord Mayor's Shows., &c. ; "the comeliest per- 
 sonages of the Company" attended the lord mayor on horseback, in velvet coats, chains 
 of gold, and with staff torches, to escort Queen Elizabeth from Chelsea to Whitehall. 
 They kept, until within a few years, a superbly-gilt barge, in which, on the morning of 
 Lord Mayor's-day, they visited Lambeth Palace ; when the household of the Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury brought on board the barge hot spiced ale, buns and cakes, and 
 wine; the latter being served to the Stationers in small wooden "sack-cups," or bowls, 
 with two handles, which were provided by the beadle of the Company. This custom 
 is stated to have originated as follows : when Tenison possessed the See, a near relation 
 of his, who was Master of the Stationers' Company, thought it a compliment to call at 
 the Palace in his stately barge on the morning of Lord Mayor's-day, when the Arch- 
 bishop sent out a pint of wine for each liveryman, with bread and cheese and ale for 
 the watermen and attendants ; and this grew into a settled custom. Certain fees 
 amounting to 21. 12*. 6d. were paid to the Archbishop's servants on this occasion ; the 
 Bargemaster's bill was 20 guineas, the charge for music, 12Z., besides other expenses, 
 to enable the Company to " attend my lord mayor with fitting state." On the dis- 
 continuance of the aquatic civic pageant, the Stationers' Company sold their barge, 
 and the regale at Lambeth was thenceforth discontinued. The Company formerly sub- 
 mitted their several almanacks to the Archbishop of Canterbury, for his Grace's 
 approval ; this is no longer observed, but the Stationers continue to present annually 
 to the Archbishop an entire set of their almanacks.
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The Stationers' Company ^ have erected in Bolt-court, Fleet-street, a School-house, 
 at a cost of about 9000Z. The School is not. confined to the sons of liverymen and 
 freemen of the Company : it will accommodate upwards of 300 boys, and affords an 
 education similar to that of the City of London School. The speeches and awards of 
 prizes take place at Midsummer before the Master, Wardens, and Court of Assistants, 
 in the Stationers' Hall. The buildings were repaired and re-decorated in 1866-7 : the 
 Court-room is a noble and picturesque apartment. 
 
 The funeral feast of Thomas Sutton, of the Charter-house, was given May 28, 1612, in the former 
 Stationers' Hall ; the procession having started from Dr. Law's, in Paternoster-row. For this repast 
 were provided 32 neats' tongues, 40 stone of beef, 24 marrow-bones, 1 lamb, 46 capons, 32 geese, 4 
 pheasants, 12 pheasants' pullets, 12 godwits, 24 rabbits, 6 hearnshaws, 48 turkey-chickens, 48 roast 
 chickens, 18 house-pigeons, 72 field-pigeons, 36 quails, 48 ducklings, 160 eggs, 3 salmons, 4 congers, 10 
 turbots, 2 dories, 24 lobsters, 4 mullets, a firkin and keg of sturgeon, 3 barrels of pickled oysters, 6 
 gammons of bacon, 4 Westphalia gammons, 16 fried tongues, 16 chicken-pies, 16 pasties, 16 made 
 dishes of rice, 16 neats'-tongue pies, 16 custards, 16 dishes of bait, 16 mince-pies, 16 orange-pies, 16 
 forst back-meats, 16 gooseberry-tarts, 8 redeare-pies, 6 dishes of whitebait, and 6 grand salads. 
 Malcolm. 
 
 STOCKING- WEAVEHS' HALT,, Redcross-street, Cripplegate, long since taken down, was 
 noted for containing a curious picture, illustrative of the history of the stocking-loom. 
 
 In this old picture William Lee or Lea is pointing put his stocking-loom to a female knitter ; 
 beneath which is this inscription : " In the year 1589, the ingenious William Lee, Master of Arts of St. 
 John's College, Cambridge, devised this profitable art for stockings (but being despised, went to 
 Prance,) yet of iron to himself, but to us and others of gold : in memory of whom this is here painted." 
 By some the picture is thought to have suggested the story of- Lee's having invented the machine to 
 expedite knitting, and thus allow the girl, of whom he was enamoured, more time to listen to his love- 
 making; or the picture may be an illustration of the story. Aaron Hill gives the invention to a poor 
 student of Oxford, to supersede his wife's knitting for their family's support ; but Hill wrote this in 
 1715 upon hearsay; and Lee is named as the inventor in a petition of the Framework-knitters, or 
 Stocking-makers, to Cromwell for a charter, subsequently granted by Charles II. in 1663. Hill's ver- 
 sion lias, however, been adopted by Elmore ill his very clever picture of " the Invention of the 
 Stocking-loom," painted in 1847. 
 
 The painting of Lee and his wife, however, was parted with by the Company at a 
 period of pecuniary embarrassment. Mr. Bennet Woodcroft has collected some par- 
 ticulars of the disposal of the picture, in the hope that they may lead to its restoration. 
 In a list, dated 1687, of plate, paintings, &c. belonging to the Company, is an item : 
 " Mr. Lee's picture, by Balderston :" it is also described in Hatton's London, 1708. 
 From 1732, the Company's books show no more meetings at their Hall, or any further 
 entry of the picture. The Stocking Weavers subsequently let their Hall, and met at 
 various taverns. The head of the Court Summons, dated 1777, is engraved from Lee's 
 picture ; and from this plate is copied an engraving in the Gallery of Portraits of In- 
 ventors in the Great- Seal Patent Office. The picture is thought to have passed, about 
 1773, into the hands of an influential member of the Court of Framework Knitters, 
 who, from time to time, lent the Company money, as their books testify. 
 
 TALLOW-CHANDLEES' HALL, Dowgate-hill, is built in the style of Wren, with a 
 colonnade of Tuscan arches. The Company was incorporated by Edward IV. in 1460. 
 
 WATERMEN'S HALL, St. Mary-at-Hill, Billingsgate, was built in 1786. The Com- 
 pany's old Hall was in Cold-harbour, and faced the Thames. 
 
 The fares of the Thames Watermen and Wherrymen were regulated by Henry VIII. in 1514. Taylor 
 the Water-poet, temp. Elizabeth, states the Watermen between Windsor and Gravesend at 40,000. They 
 were made a Company by Philip and Mary in 1555, with eight overseers and rulers, " the most wise, 
 discreet, and best sort of watermen," selected by the Lord Mayor and Court of Aldermen. This 
 statute regulates the dimensions of the boats and wherries, then dangerously " shallow and tickle ;" 
 the Lord Mayor and Aldermen to limit the watermen's fares, to be confirmed by the Privy Council. 
 Strype was told by one of the Company that there were 40,000 watermen upon their rolls ; that they 
 could furnish 20,000 men for the fleet ; and 8000 men were then in the service. Taylor the Water-poet, 
 with his fellow-watermen, violently opposed the introduction of coaches astrade-spillers. The Company 
 condemned the buT'iing of Westminster and Blackfriars Bridges, for their injury to the ferries between 
 Vauxhall and the Temple, the profits of which were given to the poor, aged, decayed, and maimed 
 Watermen and their widows ; and in both cases the Company were compensated for their losses. The 
 substitution of steam-boats for wherrits has, however, been as fatal to the watermen as railways have 
 proved to stage-coachmen. The above statement of the number of Watermen is very questionable. 
 
 In 1633, Taylor, the Water-poet, sent in a petition to Lord Cottington, on behalf of 
 his Majesty's watermen. It is in rhyme : 
 
 ** Shows that your Lordship is so well inclined 
 To pay us, that our order you have signed, 
 For which we humbly thank you, though as yet, 
 We sue, and seek, and can no payment get.
 
 HALLS WAX-CHANDLERS', WEAVERS'. 423 
 
 We live in debt, we coin and credit lack, 
 
 And we do fear Sir Robert Pye is slack, 
 
 Or else unwilling ; therefore we implore 
 
 Your Lordship to remember him once more ; 
 And we shall pray unto the power supernal 
 To bless your Lordship, temporal and eternal. 
 
 WAX-CHANDLEES' HALL, No. 13, Gresham-street West, nearly opposite Haber- 
 dashers' Hall, was taken down in 1852, and has been rebuilt. The Wax- Chandlers' 
 Company was incorporated by Richard III. in 1483. The chandler of old set his mark 
 to the several articles which he made ; lent out wax-tapers for hire ; and in Roman 
 Catholic times wax was brought to the chandlers, to be made into " torches, torchettes, 
 prykettes or perchers, chaundelle or tapers for women ayenst Candehnas." 
 
 Among the Company's Curiosities are a Grant of Arms to the Company, temp. Richard III., a most 
 magnificent document, the Company's Charter of Incorporation, beautifully illuminated. The Wax- 
 chandlers also have several very interesting examples of the 17th century silver plate. The late Mr. 
 Gregory, of Wax-chandlers' Hall, left a very interesting collection of civic antiquities. 
 
 WEAVERS' HALL, Basinghall- street. The Weavers enjoy the privilege of being the 
 first to whom a charter was granted, of any of the City Guilds. That Guilds were 
 originated for the purposes of trade is borne out by the fact that the Weavers' Guild 
 is older than the charter of the City itself; and persons belonging to that Guild are 
 entitled to trade in the City, though they are not free of the City. The Company, 
 originally cloth and tapestry weavers, was first incorporated in the reign of Henry I., 
 and paid 16Z. a year to the Crown for their immunities. Their privileges were con- 
 firmed to them at Winchester by Henry II. in 1184, the charter being sealed by 
 Thomas a Becket, the celebrated Chancellor of that reign. The chief officers of the 
 Company retain the distinctive titles of Upper Bailiff and Renter Bailiff. The motto 
 is " Weave Truth with Trust." Hatton (1708) describes the Hall as greatly adorned 
 with hangings, fretwork, and a screen of the Ionic order. Their arms are curious : 
 
 Azure, on a chevron, argent, between three leopards' heads, having each a shuttle in his mouth, or, as 
 many roses, gules, seeded proper : crest, a Leopard's Head crowned with a ducal coronet, and a shuttle 
 as before ; supporters, two Weeverns, ermine, winged or, membered gules. 
 
 The old Hall, which had a decorative ceiling, and a staircase with carvings, was taken 
 down in 1856, and has been rebuilt in handsome style. 
 
 The existing Companies are so many trusteeships for "charitable purposes" and 
 "chartered festivals;" and their earliest object was the formation of a common stock 
 for the relief of poor or decayed members. Stow devotes some twenty-five folio pages 
 of his Survey to charities for this purpose, and which he characterizes as " the Honour 
 of Citizens and Worthiness of Men." These charities comprise pensions to decayed 
 members, almshouses, gifts of money to the poor ; funds for the support of hospitals, 
 schools, exhibitions at the universities ; prisoners in the City gaols; for lectures and ser- 
 mons, and donations to distressed clergymen ; loans to young beginners in business, &c. 
 
 Of the eighty-nine Companies, eight are practically extinct ; and a ninth, the Parish 
 Clerks, has no connexion with the municipality of London. The others are divided by 
 the Parliamentary Commissioners into three classes : 1. Companies still controlling 
 their trade, namely, the Goldsmiths and the Apothecaries : both these also belong to 
 Class 2. 2. Companies exercising the right of search, or making wares, &c., including 
 the Stationers', at whose Hall all copyright books must be " entered ;" the Gun-makers, 
 who prove all the guns made in the City; the Founders, who test and mark weights; 
 the Saddlers, who examine the workmanship of saddles; the Painters, who issue a 
 trade price-list of some authority ; and the Pewterers and Plumbers, who make assays. 
 3. Companies into which persons carrying on certain occupations in the City are com- 
 pelled to enter: such are the Apothecaries, Brewers, Pewterers, Builders, Barbers, 
 Bakers, Saddlers, Painter- stainers, Plumbers, Innholders, Founders,* Poulterers, Cooks, f 
 
 * The Fruiterers' Company have no Hall : they present the Lord Mayor yearly with fruit, formerly 
 twelve bushels of apples, and are entertained by his Lordship. 
 
 t The Cooks' Company have no Hall. By their Charter of Charles II. they claim to serve the sove- 
 reign on all civic occasions, as well as exemption from serving on juries. They also claim the right of 
 selling beer without a license ; but the Court of Excise have decided against this privilege by an Act 
 of Parliament which exempts only members of the Vintners' Company from the wine license. The 
 Cooks' Company are, however, exempted from serving OD juries in the City courts.
 
 42? CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Weavers, Scriveners, Farriers, Spectacle-makers, Clockmakers,* Silk-throwers, Dis- 
 tillers, Tobacco-pipe-inakers, and Carmen ; the last mentioned exclusively consisting of 
 persons belonging to the trade. Admission to the body of freemen is obtained by 
 birth, apprenticeship, purchase, or gift ; and thence into the livery by fees. 
 
 The Needlemakers' is the only City Company not incorporated by a crowned head, they having 
 received their Charter from Cromwell in 1656. They have no Hall, but these characteristic arms : vert, 
 three needles infess argent, each ducally crowned or : crest, a Moor's head, couped at the shoulders in 
 profile proper, wreathed about the temples argent, and in his ear a pearl (the crest originally was an 
 apple-tree and serpent); supporters, a man and woman (termed Adam and Eve), wreathed round the 
 waist with leaves, all proper, in the woman's dexter hand a needle argent ; motto, " they sewed fig- 
 leaves together and made themselves aprons." Stow tells us that needles were sold in Cheapside in 
 the reign of Queen Mary, and were then made by a Spanish negro, by a secret art ; they are also said 
 to have been made in London by a native of India, in 1545; and by one Elias Krause, a German, in 
 1566. Needles were first made, or rather finished, in Whitechapel, by one Mackenzie : hence the cry 
 of " Whitechapel needles, twenty-five for a penny." The trade then removed to the borders of War- 
 wickshire and Worcestershire; but Whitechapel labels are still used, and the fame of "Whitechapel 
 sharps" has reached the interior of Africa. 
 
 The arms of the several Companies (some very curious) are correctly given in Moule's 
 English Counties : Middlesex. Their records are ancient ; for the Great Companies' 
 title-deeds mostly extend to the thirteenth century. 
 
 HALLS, MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 AGBICTTLTTJEAL HAIL, Islington, was built in 1862, and opened with the Smithfield 
 Club Cattle Show, in December. The principal entrance is in Liverpool-road, beneath 
 a lofty arch, flanked by towers, with cupolas, 95 feet high. The capital was raised 
 by a Joint-Stock Company, Limited, composed of agriculturists, agricultural implement 
 makers, and cattle salesmen. The whole sum expended in the building, fittings, &c., 
 was 53,OOOZ. The first chairman of the Company was the late Mr. Jonas Webb, of 
 Babraham, the celebrated breeder of South-down sheep and short-horned cattle. The 
 ground-plan and cattle fittings were designed by Mr. John Giblett, the eminent cattle- 
 salesman, of the Metropolitan Market. The vice-chairman is Mr. Shuttleworth, the 
 agricultural implement maker, of Lincoln. The main hall is 384 feet in length, by 
 217 feet in breadth, and has galleries on the four sides, 30 feet wide. There is also a 
 minor hall, 100 feet square ; and an entrance-arcade 150 feet long from Islington 
 Green. The great hall has an iron arched roof, glazed, 130 feet span. Mr. F. Peck 
 was the architect. The first stone was laid by Lord Berners, as President of the Club. 
 
 The Hall was originally established by members of the Smithfield Club, after an 
 existence of more than sixty-two years. The Club has, since its first institution, had 
 at least five different places of exhibition. In 1799 and 1800, the Club exhibited in 
 Wootton's Livery Stables (Dolphin Yard), Smithfield ; in 1804, the Show was held in 
 Swan-yard; in 1805, the next selected spot was Dixon's Repository, in Barbican; the 
 display for 1808 took place in Sadler's-yard, Gos well -street ; and in 1839, the Club, 
 moving westward, gave its first exhibition in Baker-street. From Mr. Brandreth 
 Gibbs's History of the Origin and Progress of the Smithfield Club, we learn that, at 
 the first exhibition, the Club only received from the public 40. 3s. The receipts of 
 the first Baker-street Show were 300Z. 
 
 At the first Cattle-show in the Agricultural Hall, in five days, 134,669 persons paid one 
 shilling each for admission. Since that date, besides the annual Show of cattle, sheep, 
 pigs, and agricultural implements, there have been held here four Dog-shows, at one of 
 which 2000 dogs were entered : that held in 1863 brought 60,800 paying visitors. The 
 first Horse-show was held in 1864. The Hall Company have the credit of originating a 
 Show of this description under cover, with horses exhibited, saddled and harnessed, 
 in an arena sufficiently large to display their paces, and accommodations which have 
 never been excelled. A Horse-show is now held here every year in the week between 
 Epsom and Ascot Races, and attracts the most fashionable company in London. The 
 judges are invariably selected from noblemen and gentlemen ; as for instance, the Earls 
 of Chesterfield and Portsmouth, Lords Suffieldand Combermere. 
 
 Her ^^jetjr ^umimsBioners 01 \vorKs ana liuuain<rs against the order giv^. ^^ *~* 
 
 make the great Clock for the New Palace at Westminster, instead of submitting it, as originally 
 intended, to competition.
 
 HALLS, MISCELLANEOUS. 425 
 
 There are also at Christmas, Equestrian Performances, with chariot-races, &c., 
 reminding one of the sports of Old Rome. There have likewise been several Industrial 
 and Musical Exhibitions : the Metropolitan Working Men's Exhibition held here ten 
 weeks in the autumn of 1866, was visited by more than half a million persons. One 
 evening, when the Messiah oratorio was sung by the Tonic Sol-fa Association, upwards 
 of 23,000 persons paid twopence each for admission in little more than two hours. 
 The Company, up to January, 1865, when the Cattle-show was seriously affected by 
 the cattle plague, had paid four dividends, averaging eight pounds per cent. Mr. John 
 Clayden of Littlebury, Essex, is the present chairman. The Secretary and Manager of 
 the Hall is Mr. Samuel Sidney, a well-known writer on colonization, civil engineering, 
 and agriculture. 
 
 BAKEWELL HALL formerly stood in front of the Guildhall, over the ground now 
 occupied by the Law Courts, and extending almost to Basinghall-street. (See the Plan 
 of Bassishaw Ward, Strype's Stow, vol. i. ; also Maitland's History of London ; 
 edition 1760, vol. ii. ; Aggas's Plan of London, 1560. For a view of the first hall, 
 in the time of Henry VIII., see Newton's Plan of London.) Stow says it was 
 first called Basing's Hall, after its owners, the noble family of the Basings, who, in the 
 reign of King John, were appointed chief magistrates, and many served the office of 
 mayor and sheriff. Subsequently, this large building, in the reign of Edward III., was 
 inhabited by Thomas Bakewell. In the twentieth year of Richard II. the King, for 
 the sum of 50Z. which the mayor and commonalty had paid into the Hanaper, assigned 
 to them the Hall, gardens, &c., for the use of the Corporation ; and Bakewell Hall, 
 from that time, was chiefly employed as a weekly market-place for woollen cloths, 
 broad and narrow, brought from all parts of this realm to be sold there. The first 
 hall was taken down and rebuilt in the space of ten months, in 1558, at the charge, of 
 25001. 3001. was a legacy of Mr. Richard May, merchant-tailor ; but this building 
 did not escape the Great Fire ; it was again rebuilt in 1672. The Corporation gave to 
 Christ's Hospital the profit arising from the lodging and pitching of the cloth in the 
 several warehouses or halls for it was divided into several. This last building was 
 taken down to make room for the new Law Courts. Bakewell Hall, or Blakewell Hall, 
 as it was subsequently called up to the last century, was the great cloth-market of 
 London, and the neighbourhood is still noted for the warehouses of wholesale woollen- 
 drapers. W. H. Overall, Guildhall Libarian : City Press. 
 
 COMMERCIAL HALL, Mincing-lane, for the public sale of colonial produce, was built 
 in 1811, from the designs of Joseph Wood, F.S.A., author of Letters from an Archi- 
 tect ; it has some characteristic bas-reliefs, by J. G. Bubb. 
 
 FLAXMAN HALL, University College, Gower-street, is the central apartment beneath 
 the cupola, designed by Cockerell and Donaldson, for the receipt of Flaxman's models, 
 presented by his sister-in-law, Miss Maria Denman. The collection consists of about 
 140 casts in plaster from the original models, statues and groups of figures, and reliefs, 
 some retouched by the great sculptor. Immediately beneath the lantern is the group 
 of Michael and Satan ; and around and above are his monumental and other reliefs, 
 arranged in compartments. In the niche in the vestibule is the large group of 
 Hercules and Omphale ; in adjoining rooms are the Pastoral Apollo, the Shield of 
 Achilles, small models of Raphael and Michael Angelo, and other of Flaxman's works ; 
 and on the landing is a fine statue of the sculptor by M. L. Watson. 
 
 FLOHAL HALL, at the south-east corner of the Piazza, Covent Garden, was built in 
 1863, by taking down .a portion of Inigo Jones's Arcade; E. M. Barry, architect. It 
 is of iron and glass, and has a large dome. It is an adjunct to Coveut-garden opera- 
 house, and occasionally used for concerts, flower-shows, &c. 
 
 HALL OF COMMERCE, No. 52, Threadneedle-street, was designed and built in 1840-43 
 by Mr. Moxhay, formerly a biscuit-baker in the same street : it occupies the site of the 
 French Protestant Church, in clearing away which a fine Roman tesselated pavement 
 was discovered, and is now in the British Museum. 
 
 The Hall facade has a bas-relief 73 feet in length, with life-size figures, by M. L. Watson : the cen- 
 tral lijjure is Commerce, with outspread wings and hands, encouraging the Fine Arts ; the groups
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 symbolizing the intellectual and physical advantages of Commerce. Thus, sinister are Peace ; Industry, 
 agricultural and mechanical figures bringing fruits and produce, and others spinning; next is Naviga- 
 tion, guided by Astronomy and Geography; and Education and Civilization, with Liberty freeing the 
 Slave. Dexter is History ; next is a group of the Arts and Sciences ; Enterprise guided by Genius, 
 and awaiting their arrival is a group of aborigines. The sculptor died young, in 1847. 
 
 The building was opened as a mercantile club-house; right and left were two 
 superb halls, with Corinthian columns and pilasters, picturesque friezes, and elegantly 
 coved ceilings. In the larger hall, 130 feet long, 44 wide, and 50 feet high, March 1, 
 1851, was given the dinner to Mr. Macready on his retirement from the stage; 
 upwards of 500 guests. The Hall of Commerce, after Mr. Moxhay's death in 1849, 
 was sold for 44,000. ; the site alone is stated to have cost him 35,000. The building 
 was next altered for the Bank of London. 
 
 HICKS'S HAH, whence the miles on the Great North Road were formerly measured 
 (or, " from the spot where Hicks's Hall formerly stood"), merits record. In the wide 
 part of St. John- street, Clerkenwell, some two hundred yards from Smithfield, an 
 inscription on a public-house states that Hicks's Hall there formerly stood. It was 
 erected some two hundred and fifty years since the year in which the New River was 
 brought into London. It was built by and named after Sir Baptist Hicks, of Ken- 
 sington, one of the justices, who, "out of his worthy disposition," gave it to the 
 justices of the county for ever. It got out of repair, and much impeded the traffic. 
 Another Sessions- House was commenced building on Clerkenwell-green; this was finished 
 in 1782 (Rogers, architect) : it contains a carved chimney-piece, of Jacobean character, 
 with an inscription recording Hicks's gift, removed from the old Sessions- House. 
 Strype says the Hall cost about 900Z., or thereabouts; elsewhere, he states 6001. 
 Howes thus describes the building, and the naming of it : 
 
 Sir Baptist Hicks, Knight, one of the justices of the county, builded a very stately Session House 
 of brick and stone, with all offices thereunto belonging, at his own proper charge; and upon Wednes- 
 day, the 13th of January, this yere, 1612, by which time this house was fully finished, there assembled 
 twenty-six justices of the county, being the first day of their meeting in that place, when they were all 
 feasted by Sir Baptist Hicks; and then they all, with one consent, gave it a proper name, and called it 
 Hicks' Hall, after the name of the founder, who then freely gave the same house to them and their suc- 
 cessors for ever. Until this time, the Justices of Middlesex held their usual meeting in a common inn, 
 called the Castle (near Smithfield Bars). 
 
 Hicks's Hall had other celebrity besides its milestone distinction. It occurs in 
 Hudibras, part iii. canto 3 : 
 
 " An old dull sot, who told the clock, 
 For many years, at Bridewell Dock, 
 At Westminster and Hicks's Hall, 
 And hiccius-doctius played in all." 
 
 In Hicks's Hall, William Lord Russell, the patriot, was sentenced to death for high 
 treason, July 14, 1683 ; here, too, Count Koningsmarck was tried for the murder of 
 Mr. Thynne, and acquitted ; and in March, 1765, a bill of indictment was found at 
 the sessions here against Count de Guerchy, for the absurd charge of a conspiracy to 
 murder the Chevalier d'Eon. Hicks's Hall, we gather from a drawing in Mr. Holbert 
 Wilson's collection, scarcely reaches Howes's description : it was not large, had a bay- 
 window in the upper floor, and above it a gable. 
 
 HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY'S HAIL, Fenchurch-street, is a handsome edifice, with an 
 interesting collection of Curiosities from the countries to which the Company trade 
 by barter and otherwise, for rich furs, skins, &c., sold here in spring and autumn. 
 The Company was incorporated by Charles II. in 1670. Their hunting-ground extends 
 from Hudson's Bay to the Pacific, and from the United States' frontier to the Arctic 
 Sea. In the Hall is a vast pair of horns of the Moose Deer, weighing 56 Ibs. ; and in 
 another room, the picture of an Elk, the European Moose, killed in the presence of 
 Charles XI. of Sweden: it weighed 1229 Ibs. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S HALL and its appurtenances (originated by Mr. Willert Beale) are 
 situated between the Quadrant in Regent-street and Piccadilly, and Vine-street and 
 George-court. There is a frontage in Regent-street, and another in Piccadilly; the 
 latter is characteristically embellished with a sculptured figure of Music, supported by 
 two Cupids, in the tympanum over the upper windows ; and between the upper and 
 lower window is a frieze of children playing various musical instruments. The interior
 
 HALLS, MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 consists of a great hall and two smaller halls. The dimensions of the great hall are 
 139 feet hy 60, and 60 feet in height; and it will seat about 2500 persons. It has 
 a semicircular-headed ceiling, and a recessed orchestral gallery at one end, and an 
 alcove at the other end, containing a large organ hy Gray and Davidjon. The walls 
 and ceiling have heen decorated by Mr. Owen Jones. The ceiling is divided into 
 lozenge-shaped panels, by principal ribs that traverse the roof diagonally, and intersect 
 each other ; within these panels are others formed by lesser ribs. The semicircular- 
 headed windows are surrounded with flowing scroll ornaments, on a ground of orange- 
 chrome yellow ; and the windows have groups of figures in bold relief, holding scrolls, 
 on which are inscribed the names of Mozart, Handel, Beethoven, Haydn, Auber, 
 Meyerbeer, Spohr, Weber, Gluck, Purcell, Eossini, Cherubim, and other eminent com- 
 posers. The ceiling is rich in colour and gilding ; the smaller panels are Alhambran 
 gold on a red ground. The Hall is not lighted at night by a central chandelier, but 
 by gas stars of seven jets each, suspended from the ceiling. The figures in the various 
 designs were modelled by Monti ; the other enrichments, by De Sarchy, are of plaster 
 and canvas run into moulds. The floor of the Hall is of marqueterie. It was opened 
 with a musical performance for the benefit of the Middlesex Hospital on the 25th of 
 March, 1856. The Hall is not, however, appropriated exclusively to music. 
 
 Public Dinners are given in this Hall. The first took place June 2, 1858, Mr. Robert Stephenson, 
 M.P., presiding, when handsome plate and 2678Z. were presented to Mr. F. Pettit Smith, in testimony 
 of his bringing into general use the system of Screw Propulsion in ships. The subscribers to the 
 Testimonial were 138, chiefly eminent naval officers, engineers, ship-builders, ship-owners, and men of 
 science ; and the Festival intellectually commemorated " one of those bloodless triumphs of 'civilization, 
 of which this age and country have reason to be proud." 
 
 ST. MARTIN'S Music HALL, No. 89, Long Acre, was originally designed by E. 
 Westmacott, for Mr. Hullah's Singing Classes : the style Elizabethan, with iron arches 
 and panelled wood roof, of immense span ; the Hall was first opened Feb. 11, 1850. 
 It was partly destroyed by fire, but was restored and lengthened in 1853, and is now 
 121 feet 6 inches long ; an entrance-hall was then added. 
 
 UNION HALI, Union-street, Southwark, was built by subscription, upon the site of 
 the Greyhound inn, in 1781, for the use of the justices of the peace, before which they 
 sat at the Swan Inn. They attended at Union Hall daily till the passing of the Police 
 Act in 1793, when it was made one of the offices; the business was next removed to a 
 new office at Stones' End ; Union Hall was then let as warehouses ; it was destroyed by 
 fire Dec. 6, 1851. 
 
 WESLEYAN CENTENABY HALL and MISSION HOTJSE, Bishopsgate-street, faces 
 Threadneedle-street. The Centenary Hall was formerly the City of London Tavern. 
 The great Hall for Wesleyan meetings will hold 1200 persons. In the rear is the 
 Mission House, built in 1842 : here is the picture by Parker of the rescue of John 
 Wesley from the flames, when a boy. The arrangement of the warehouses, for books, 
 clothes, implements, and other outfittings of the missionaries, illustrates the extent of 
 the Society's transactions geographically : here Ashantee, there Tonga ; there Caffraria, 
 Gambia, &c. 
 
 An interesting Sale of Thank-offerings from the Friendly and Fejee Islands to the Wesleyan Mis- 
 sionary Society was held in their Hall, June 19 and 20, 1851 ; including temples, cloths, and mats : 
 spears and clubs, shells and bowls ; elephants' and whales' teeth ; costumes, idols, and musical instru- 
 ments ; all picturesquely grouped, and touching as a lesson of gratitude exemplary to the silken baron 
 of civilization. 
 
 WESTJIINSTER GUILDHALL, on the south side of the Sanctuary, near the Abbey, was 
 built in 1805, by Cockerell, upon the site of the market -house, erected by subscription 
 in 1568. The Guildhall is octagonal in plan, and has a Doric entrance-portico : here 
 are held the sessions. 
 
 TOWN HALLS and VESTBY HALLS have been erected within the last twenty years 
 in most of the large parishes of the metropolis and its environs : some are good specimens 
 of Gothic and classic architecture. 
 
 See also, BEIDEWELL, CHAETEB-HOTTSE, CHBIST'S HOSPITAL, CBOSBY HALI, 
 EGYPTIAN HALL, EXETEE HALL, FBEEMASONS' LODGES, GEESHAM HALL, LAMBETH 
 PALACE. Halls are likewise attached to the INNS of COURT and CHANCERY, which 
 see. Also, WESTMINSTER HALL.
 
 428 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 HAYMARKET (THE). 
 
 " A VERY spacious and public street, length 340 yards, where is a great market for 
 -*- hay and straw." (Hatton, 1708). Hay was sold here in the reign of Elizabeth; 
 and Aggas's plan has "the Haymarket," with hedgerows and a few straggling houses; 
 and washerwomen then dried their linen on the grass of the site of the present Opera- 
 house. A Token in the British Museum denotes one of the earliest vendors of sea-coal 
 to have lived here : " Nathaniel Robins, at the Sea-coal seller, 1666." (Reverse.) 
 " Hay Markett in Pickadilla, his halfpenny." Charles II. granted the right of holding 
 a cattle-market in the street twice a week, opened 1664; it was paved 1697, by fines 
 on the carts; 3d. for each load of hay, and 2d. for straw. The market for Hay was 
 removed by Act of Parliament, in 1830, to Cumberland Market, Regent's Park. 
 
 The acclivity of the Haymarket at 490 feet from -Piccadilly was, in 1812, 1 foot in 
 22 : this has been ingeniously overcome in building the front of Her Majesty's Theatre, 
 the divisions of which have been taken advantage of to lower the lines, whilst the great 
 length of the fagade has rendered the rise unnoticeable : it was designed by Novosielski, 
 but re-fronted by Nash and Repton, 1818. Nearly opposite is the Haymarket Theatre, 
 built by Nash, in 1821, with a fine Corinthian portico: the site of Potter's "Little 
 Theatre " is occupied by the Cafe de 1'Europe. 
 
 Opposite Her Majesty's Theatre is Suffolk -place, leading to SuffolTc-sireet, the site 
 of a mansion of the Earls of Suffolk. In Strype's time the houses were handsome : 
 Moll Davies lived here from 1667 to 1673, in a mansion richly furnished for her by 
 Charles II,, which Pepys thought "a most infinite shame:" she kept also "a mighty 
 pretty fine coach." Here lived Sir John Coventry, who, on his way home, when at the 
 corner of the street, had his nose cut to the bone, " for reflecting on the king," in 1669 ; 
 whence dates the Coventry Act against cutting and maiming. 
 
 Suffolk-street has some classic house-fronts : No. 2 has four characteristic oil-jars ; 
 No. 6, next the Society of British Artists' Gallery, is from Andrea Palladio's house at 
 Vicenza. The Gallery, No. 6^, has a Roman-Doric tetrastyle portico on three semi- 
 circular arches, by Nash : the suite of five rooms, planned by James Elmes, were lit by 
 large ceiling lanterns, inclined from the perpendicular, and diffusing even light. No. 
 19 is the stage-door of the Haymarket Theatre. 
 
 On the east side of the Haymarket is James-street, dated 1673; where was the 
 Tennis-court of Shavers' Hall (see TENNIS, p. 18), the last house in Faithorne's plan of 
 1658. Above is Panton-street, which, with Panton -square, Coventry-street, was 
 named from Colonel Panton, the ground-landlord : he was a noted and successful 
 gamester, of the time of the Restoration, and the last proprietor of Piccadilly Hall, which 
 stood at the corner of Great Windmill-street and Coventry-street : the Tennis-court 
 remained to our time in Great Windmill-street. 
 
 Colonel Panton, it is said, in one night won as many thousands as purchased him an 
 estate of above 15001. a year. After this good fortune he would never handle cards or 
 dice again ; but lived handsomely on his winnings to his dying day, which was in the 
 year 1681. He was in possession of land, the site of streets which bear his name, as 
 Panton-street and Panton-square, as early as the year 1664. Yet we remember to 
 have seen it stated that Panton-street was named from a particular kind of horse-shoe 
 called a panton; and from its contiguity to the Haymarket, this origin was long credited. 
 
 In 1772, .Puppets were exhibited in Panton-street, and were visited by Burke and Goldsmith. 
 " Burke praised the dexterity of one puppet in particular, who tossed a pike with military precision. 
 'Psha!' remarked Goldsmith, with some warmth, 'I can do it better myself." " (Forster's Goldsmith.) 
 Boswell relates that Goldsmith "went home with Mr. Burke to supper, and broke his shin by attempt- 
 ing to exhibit to the company how much better he could jump over a stick than the puppets." 
 
 On the west is Norris-street, leading to St. James's Market, once the great western 
 butchers' and poulterers' market, noted by Pepys in lt>t>t> as just built by my Lord 
 St. Albans : in a room over the market-house Richard Baxter used to preach. Here, 
 too, is Jermyn-street, named after Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans. 
 
 At the corner of Market-street, extending into Jermyn-street, lived Wheeler, the 
 linen-draper, and uncle of Hannah Lightfoot, "the fair Quakeress," who, while 
 serving in her uncle's shop, caught the eye of Prince George (afterwards King 
 George III.), in his walks and rides from Leicester House to St. James's Palace.
 
 HOLBORh. 429 
 
 Facing Piccadilly Hall, occupying the whole south side of the present Coventry- 
 street, between the Haymarket and Hedge-lane, stood the Gaming-house built by the 
 barber of the Earl of Pembroke, and hence called Shavers' Hall : it is described by 
 Garrard, in a letter to Lord Stratford in 1635 as " a new Spring Gardens erected in 
 the fields beyond the Mews." 
 
 From a survey of the premises, made in 1650, we gather that Shavers' Hall was strongly built of 
 brick, and covered with lead : its large " seller" was divided into six rooms : above these four rooms, 
 and the same in the first storey, to which was a balcony, with a prospect southward to the bowling- 
 alleys. In the second storey were six rooms; and over the same a walk, leaded, and enclosed with 
 rails, " very curiously carved and wrought," as was also the staircase, throughout the house. On the 
 west were large kitchens and coal-house, with lofts over, " as also one faire Tennis Court," of brick, 
 tiled, " well accommodated with all things fitting for the same ;" with upper rooms ; and at the entrance- 
 gate to the upper bowling-green, a parlour-lodge ; and a double flight of steps descending to the lower 
 bowling-alley ; there was still another bowling-alley, and an orchard-wall, planted with choice fruit- 
 trees; ''as also one pleasant hanqueting-house, and one other faire and pleasant Eoome, called the 
 Greene Roome, and one other Conduit-house, and 2 other Turrets adioininge to the walls." 
 
 HOLBORN, 
 
 A THOROUGHFARE of varying widths, extends froni the'riorth end of Farringdon- 
 strcet to Broad-street, Bloomsbury. It was anciently '(jailed Old-bourne, from 
 being built upon the side of a brook or bourne, which " br(k-e o\it of the ground about 
 the place where now the bars do stand, and ran down the wtible street till Old-bourne 
 Bridge, and into the River of the Wells, or Turnemill Brook.^ (Stow.) 1502. " The 
 deche from the Temse to Holborne-brygge new cast." (Grey Friars' Chronicle.) The 
 stream now runs the same course along the common sewer ; and he arch of- Holborn- 
 bridge was uncovered in 1811. Holborn was first paved in 1417, at the expense of 
 Henry V., when the highway " was so deep and miry that many perils and hazards 
 were thereby occasioned, as well to the king's carriages passing that way, as to those 
 of his subjects." (Rymer's Fcedera, vol. ix. p. 447.) By this road criminals were con- 
 veyed from Xewgate and the Tower to the gallows at St. Giles's and Tyburn; 
 whither a ride in the cart " up the Heavy Hill" implied going to be hung, in Ben 
 Jonson's time. 
 
 " As clever Tom Clinch, while the rabble was bawling, 
 Kode stately through Holborn to die of his calling, 
 He stopt at the George for a bottle of sack, 
 And promised to pay for it when he came back." Sieift, 1727. 
 
 'An old Counsellor in Holborn used every execution-day to turn out his clerks with this compli- 
 ment : Go, ye young rogues ; go to school and improve." Tom Brown. 
 
 To remedy the declivities of Holborn and Snow Hill, various plans have been proposed, 
 by viaducts crossing the valley of the Fleet, and otherwise. Alderman Skinner, who 
 built Skinner-street, proposed to construct a bridge from Snow-hill across the valley 
 to Holborn-hill ; and to lift the valley 17 feet forms part of Mr. Charles Pearson's 
 plan. The traffic is much larger than is generally believed : for example, of 9950 
 vehicles passing over Holborn-hill, 1013, or about one-tenth, go up and down from the 
 low levels ; and of 10,723 passing through Skinner-street and Snow-hill, 3219, or about 
 three-tenths, go up and down from the low levels. 
 
 The Corporation plan provides that the line of improvement from east to west shall 
 commence at or near the Old Bailey, and terminate at a point 55 feet beyond the 
 western side of Hatton-garden by a high-level roadway formed 80 feet wide, with an 
 almost imperceptible gradient. Farringdon-street is to be crossed by a bridge with 
 a minimum central headway of 21 feet. Two new streets are to be laid down, both 
 starting from Farringdoji-road, to afford communication for vehicles between the upper 
 and lower levels. 
 
 No. 94, Holbom-hill, opposite Shoe-lane, the well-known house of Messrs. Fearon, was established at 
 the beginning of the present century. The amount of the wines and spirits sold there was much 
 controverted in the Times newspaper, in 1829 : a Correspondent, December 14, stated that he had 
 " watched one shop in Holborn, and saw, on an average, six individuals enter per minute, being equal to 
 
 Sfifl in fln llmir " Af fhiq timp linnnra wprp nnncnmpH nnrm tho ni-omiapc VintfViio Vine l/inr Kaan r1io/*/%v_ 
 
 ' The flavour now of Fearon's, 
 That mingles in my dram, 
 Eeminds me you're in England, 
 And I'm in Rotterdam."
 
 430 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 And he concludes with 
 
 "The girl I love in England 
 I drink at Rotterdam." 
 
 The founder of the house was Mr. Henry Bradshaw Fearon, who visited America in 1818, and on 
 his return published " A Narrative of a Journey of Five Thousand Miles through the Eastern and 
 Western States." 
 
 On the north side is Ely-place, built upon part of the site of the palace of the 
 Bishops of Ely. (See ELY HOUSE, p. 321.) 
 
 In Holborn are Thavie's, Barnard's, Furnival's, Staple's, and Gray's Inns. (See IXNS 
 OF COUBT.) At the corner of Furnival's Inn, and in Queen-street, Cheapside, Mr. 
 Edward Kidder, the famous pastry-cook (who died April, 1739, aged 73 years), had two 
 schools, in which he taught nearly six thousand ladies the art of making pastry. 
 Kidder published his receipts, engraved on copper, in a thin 8vo, with his portrait 
 as a frontispiece. 
 
 At No. 39, Brooke-street, died Chatterton. Of the house, occupied by Mr. Jefford, 
 a plumber, Mr. Hotten, in his Adversaria, gives these very interesting reminiscences : 
 
 " We know, from the account of Sir Herbert Croft, that Chatterton occupied the garret a room look- 
 ing out into the street, as the only garret in this house does. I remember this room very well, as it was 
 twenty-six years ago, soon after which the occupier made some alterations in it. It must then have 
 been substantially in the same condition as in 1770 ; for the walls were old and dilapidated, and the 
 flooring decayed. It was a square and rather large room for an attic. It had two windows in it- 
 lattice- windows or casements built in a style which I think is called " Dormer." Outside ran the 
 gutter, with a low parapet-wall, over which you could look into the street below. The roof was very 
 low, so low, that I, who am not a tall man, could hardly stand upright in it with my hat on ; and it had 
 a very long slope extending from the middle of the room down to the windows. It is a curious fact, 
 that in the well-known picture (The Death of Chatterton, by Wallis) exhibited at Manchester, St. Paul's 
 is ; visible through the window : I say a singular fact, because, although this is strictly in accordance 
 with the truth, as now known, the story previously believed was, that the house was opposite, where no 
 room looking into the street could have commanded a view of St. Paul's. This, however, could only 
 have been a lucky accident of the painter's. About the period I have mentioned, the tenant divided the 
 garret into two with a partition, carried the roof up, making it horizontal, and made some other altera- 
 tions, which have gone far to destroy the identity of the room. It is a singular coincidence, seeing the 
 connexion between the names of Walpole and Chatterton, that my friend, Mrs. Jefford, the wife of the 
 now occupier, who has resided there more than twenty years, was for some years in the service of Horace 
 Walpole, afterwards Lord Orford. She is a very old lady, and remembers Lord Orford well, having 
 entered his family as a girl, and continued in it till he died, near the end of the last century." 
 
 Gerarde, the herbalist, had a large physic-garden in Holborn. Howel dates one of 
 his Familiar Letters, Holborn, 3 Jan. 1641, "to Sir Kenelm Digby, at his house in 
 Saint Martin's-lane." Sir Kenelm lived, before the Civil Wars, between King-street 
 and Southampton-street ; Milton in Holborn-row, in -a house opening into Lincoln' s- 
 inn-fields ; and Dr. Johnson, in 1748, at the Golden Anchor, Holborn-bars. These 
 were the City boundaries, now marked by two granite obelisks near Middle-row, at 
 the south-east corner of which Sir James Branscomb kept a lottery -office forty years : 
 he had been footman to the Earl of Gainsborough, and was knighted when sheriff of 
 London and Middlesex in 1806. 
 
 Next is Middle-roiv, which has, for two centuries, been considered an obstruction. 
 Howel, in his Perlustration of London, 1657, p. 344, observes : " Southward of 
 Gray's-inn-lane there is a row of small houses, which is a mighty hindrance to Holborn 
 in point of prospect, which, if they were taken down, there would be from Holborn 
 Conduit to St. Giles's-in-the-Fields one of the fairest rising streets in the world." 
 These obstructive buildings have been condemned for removal. The old row is shown 
 in Faithorne's Ichnographical Delineation of London in the .reign of Charles I., a fac- 
 simile of which, engraved on copper, has lately been executed. 
 
 Southampton-buildings, Holborn, denotes the site of the mansion of the Wriothesleys, 
 Earls of Southampton ; and Brooke-street that of the residence of Sir Fulke Greville, 
 Lord Brooke, the friend of Sir Philip Sidney. Gate-street, and Great, Little, and New 
 Turnstiles, lead into Lincoln's-Inn-fields ; between the north side of which and the 
 south side of Holborn is Whetstone's Park, a profligate resort of two centuries since, 
 commemorated in the plays of Dryden, Shadwell, and Wycherley. 
 
 Paul Whitehead was born in Castle-yard, Holborn, on 6th February, 1710, o.s., being St. Paul's-day, 
 from which circumstance he is said to have derived his Christian name, ludicrously unsuitable to his 
 character, and made more memorably ridiculous by his brother satirist Churchill's well-known 
 lines : 
 
 " May I (can worse disgrace o'er manhood fall P) 
 Be born a Whitehead, and inspired a Paul."
 
 HOLLAND HOUSE, KENSINGTON. 431 
 
 On the north side of High Holborn, between Nos. 110 and 77 (see boundary-marks 
 in the pavement), is the Holborn Charity 'Estate of St. Clement Danes parish, 
 which plot of ground and some old buildings were purchased in 1552, for 160/., when 
 Holborn was almost a country road from the City to the village of St. Giles. The pro- 
 perty now produces 40001. a year, expended in schools, almshouses, and other charities. 
 The almshouses were first built at the east end of St. Clement's Church, Strand ; next, 
 about 1790, at the back of Clement's Inn Hall j and in 1848-9 the Charity was removed 
 to forty almshouses built in Garratt-lane, Streatham : infant-schools were erected in Mil- 
 ford-lane, Strand, in 1852. Upon the Holborn Estate is Day and Martin's Blacking 
 Factory, No. 97, built at a cost of 12,OOOZ. : here Mr. Day amassed great wealth, and, 
 dying in 1836, left 100,000^. for the benefit of persons, like himself, deprived of sight. 
 
 In Endell-street (formerly Old Belton-street), High Holborn, leading to Long-acre, 
 on the east side, is the Early English Christ Church, erected in 1845 ; next is the 
 British Lying-in Hospital, a picturesque Elizabethan structure, built in 1849 ; and a 
 handsome Italianized edifice for Baths and Wash-houses, built in 1852, not far from 
 the site of " Queen Anne's Bath ;" whilst, nearly in a line with Endell-street, are 
 the Industrial Schools, opened in 1852 ; and in Bloomsbury-street, northward, side 
 by side, are three chapels in Early Pointed, Lombardic, and rococo styles : six of these 
 seven edifices of religion and philanthropy were erected within eight years. 
 
 Kingsgate-street, between 116 and 117 High Holborn, is named from the King's- 
 gate, this being the royal road to Newmarket; and Pepys records, 3 March, 1668-9, 
 the King and the Duke of York, and the Duke of Momnouth, leaving Whitehall at 
 three in the morning, in their coach, which was overset at the King's-gate : " it was 
 dark, and the torches did not, they say, light the coach as they should do." Here, in 
 1852, was an old public-house, sign the Red Gate. 
 
 In Holborn also are FIELD-LANE, ELY-PLACE, FETTEE-LANE, FULWOOD'S-EENTS, 
 CHANCERY-LANE, and DETJEY-LANE, which names see. From Farringdon-street to 
 Fetter-lane is " Holborn Hill ;" Fetter-lane to Brooke-street, " Holborn " and from 
 Brooke-street to Drury-lane, " High Holborn." 
 
 On the south side, nearly upon the site of Warwick House, is the Holborn Theatre, 
 built in 1866, and opened Oct. 6. 
 
 In the reign of Edward the Sixth, the authorities ordered the removal of all the King's revels and 
 masques from Warwick House, Holborn, to "the late dissolved house of Blackfriars, London." The 
 players who removed from Holborn to Blackfriars opened the latter theatre with scenery and machinery, 
 long before the period at which those adjuncts are said to have been introduced by Davenant. When 
 the Puritans closed the theatres, the ejected actors complained that they were not allowed to act at all, 
 while the drama of " Bel and the Dragon," performed by puppets, was creating an uproar at the foot 
 of Holborn-bridge. Athenceum, No. 2033. 
 
 On the north side was the old historic inn, the George and Blue Boar, upon the site 
 of which has been erected the Inns of Court Hotel. 
 
 HOLLAND HOUSE, KENSINGTON, 
 
 A LITTLE west of the town, and about two miles from the metropolis, is a pic- 
 ii- turesque Elizabethan pile, placed in a beautiful park about midway between the 
 Kensington and Uxbridge roads. This mansion, which is the manor-house of Abbots 
 Kensington, was built in 1607 for Sir Walter Cope, and descended to his son-in-law, 
 Henry Rich, first Earl of Holland ; whence it was named Holland House. The Earl 
 was twice made prisoner here by Charles I. in 1633, for his challenging Lord Weston ; 
 and by command of the Parliament, after his attempt to restore the king, for which 
 he was beheaded in 1649. Holland House was next occupied by Sir Thomas Fan-fax, 
 afterwards Lord, the Parliamentary General, as his head-quarters. 
 
 " The Lord-General (Fairfax) is removed from Queen-street to the late Earl of Holland's house at 
 Kensington, where he intends to reside." Perfect IHurnal, 9th to 16th July, 1649. 
 
 The mansion was, however, soon restored to the Countess of Holland. During the 
 Protectorate, " in Oliver's time," plays were privately performed here. In 1716 the 
 estate passed to Addison the Essayist, by his marriage with Charlotte, Countess 
 Dowager of Holland and Warwick ; and here Addison died June 17, 1719 : having
 
 432 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 addressed to the dissolute Earl of Warwick these solemn words : " I have sent for you 
 that you may see how a Christian can die !" he shortly after expired : 
 
 " There taught us how to live, and oh, too high 
 The price of knowledge ! taught us how to die." 
 
 The young Earl himself died in 1721. About the year 1762, the estate was sold to 
 Henry Fox, the first Baron Holland of that name, whose second son, Charles James 
 Fox, passed his early years at Holland House ; and here lived his nephew, the accom- 
 plished peer, at whose death, in 1840, the estate descended to his only son, the last- 
 Lord Holland, by whom the olden character of the mansion and its appurtenances 
 was studiously maintained : the latest restorations are by Barry, R.A. 
 
 Thorpe's drawings of Holland House are preserved in the Soanean Museum. Its 
 plan is that of half the letter H ; it first consisted of the centre and turrets only, to 
 which Henry Rich, Earl of Holland, added the wings, and their connecting arcades : 
 the materials are deep-red brick, with stone finishings ; but the exterior has lost many 
 of its original features. Eastward is a stone gateway, designed by Inigo Jones, and 
 carved by N. Stone ; the lodges and enriched metal gates in the Kensington-road were 
 added in 1838. The raised terrace, with an open parapet and vases of plants, was 
 added to the south front in 1848, when also the public footpath was diverted to the 
 east side of the Park. In the Hall is the model of Westmacott's statue of Fox, erected 
 in Bloomsbury-square. In the Journal-room (which contains a complete set of the 
 Journals of the Lords and Commons) is a large collection of preserved birds, reptiles, 
 insects, shells, minerals, &c. The Great Staircase and the Gilt Room are of the time 
 of James I. ; the former has massive balustrades, carved into arches, &c. The Gilt 
 Room is mostly by Francis Cleyn, who was much employed by James I. and 
 Charles I. : the ceiling " in grotesque," by Cleyn, fell down during the minority of the 
 third Lord Holland ; the wainscot panels have alternately gold fleurs-de-lis on blue, 
 within palm-branches ; and gold crosslets on red, encircled with laurel ; vrith the arms 
 of the Rich and Cope families, and the punning motto, Ditior est qui se? Who more 
 rich than he ? The entablature has a painted leaf enrichment, with gilt acorns be- 
 tween ; the compartments of the two fire-places are painted with female figures and 
 bas-reliefs from the antique fresco of the Aldobrandini Marriage, executed by Cleyn, 
 and not unworthy of Parmegiano : among the furniture are carved and gilt shell-back 
 chairs, also by Cleyn, and a table from the Charter-house hall. Here are marble busts 
 of George IV. when Regent; William IV.; Henry IV. of France; the Duke of 
 Sussex ; the Duke of Cumberland of Culloden, by Rysbrack ; the third Lord Holland ; 
 C. J. Fox, by Nollekens, a duplicate made for the Empress Catherine of Russia ; 
 Napoleon, by Milne; Ariosto, copied from his tomb; and Henry Fox, first Lord 
 Holland, often declared by Bartolozzi to be " one of the finest specimens of sculpture 
 since the days of Phidias or Praxiteles." In the bow recess are models of Henry 
 Earl of Pembroke and Thomas Winnington, Esq. (See Richardson's Architectural 
 Remains of the Eeigns of Elizabeth and James I.) 
 
 In the breakfast-room are family portraits by Lely, Kneller, Reynolds, Hoppner, 
 &c. ; and in the Great Drawing-room (40 feet by 18 feet) are some very fine pictures, 
 including a scene by Hogarth from Dryden's Indian JSmperor, acted by children, all 
 portraits ; a Sea-port, by Velasquez ; a Holy Family, on copper, by Murillo ; a Man 
 and Boy eating Fruit, by Velasquez ; Hope nourishing Love ; and half-lengths of 
 Garrick and Sterne, by Reynolds. The Library, or Long Gallery, 102 feet by 17 feet 
 4 inches, forms the eastern wing of the mansion : the collection exceeds 18,000, besides 
 MSS. and autographs, including three plays of Lope de Vega. In the other apartments 
 are valuable pictures, miniatures, drawings, sculptures ; with enriched cabinets, vases, 
 carvings in ivory, china, filagree-work, time-pieces, &c. In the Ante-room is the 
 famous collection of miniatures. Here, too, is Reynolds's celebrated picture of Lady 
 Susan Lennox leaning from a bay-window on the north side of Holland House, to 
 receive a dove from Lady Susan Strangways, near whom is Charles James Fox, 
 when a boy of fourteen. 
 
 This " brave old house" is charmingly placed upon high ground : 
 
 " Thou hill, whose brow the antique structures grace." 
 
 Tickell, On the Death of Addison
 
 HORSE-FERRY (THE). 433 
 
 the upper apartments are stated to be on a level with the stone gallery of St. Paul's 
 Cathedral. The southern park is enclosed with noble elms. Against the house grow 
 some curious old exotic plants. The gardens abound with architectural quaintness : 
 of parterres in Italian scrolls and devices, and box and dwarf oaks clipped into globes ; 
 flower beds in the forms of a fox (in allusion to the family name), and the old Eng- 
 lish 3| ; the effect of the flowers aided by coloured sand, and the outlines of box-edging. 
 In a parterre near the house, upon a granite column, is a bronze bust of Buonaparte, 
 by Canova, the pillar inscribed with a verse from Homer's Odyssey ; and in the north 
 garden-wall is an arbour with this distich by Vassall Lord Holland : 
 
 " Here ROGERS sat and here for ever dwell 
 With me those ' Pleasures' which he sang so well." YM. Hd. 
 
 Beneath are some lines added in 118 by Henry Luttrel. 
 
 In the French garden, in 1804, was first raised in England the Dahlia, from seeds 
 sent to Vassall Lord Holland from Spain. The grounds westward, with their stately 
 oaks and cedars, were laid out and planted in 1769 by the Hon. Charles Hamilton, of 
 Pains Hill, in Surrey. 
 
 month after she died of the small-pox." Aubrey's second story is that the third daughter of Lord 
 Holland, not long after her marriage with the first Earl of Breadalbane, " had some such warning of 
 approaching dissolution." 
 
 In a meadow west of Holland House was fought, March 7, 1804, a fatal duel 
 between the late Lord Camelford and Captain Best, R.N. : upon the spot where Lord 
 Camelford fell is an antique Roman altar, placed there and thus inscribed by Vassall 
 Lord Holland : " Hoc D!S MATS' . TOTO DISCOEDIAM DEPBECAMTTB." 
 
 The Highland and Scottish Societies' gatherings, with their characteristic sports and 
 pastimes, have been frequently held in Holland Park north, since 1849. 
 
 There is a traditional story that Addison, to escape from his termagant countess, 
 often walked from Holland House to the White Horse Inn, at the corner of " Lord 
 Holland's Lane" (no longer a thoroughfare), on the site of the present Holland Arms 
 Inn ; and there enjoyed " his favourite dish, a fillet of veal, his bottle, and perhaps a 
 friend." (Spence.) Before his marriage, Addison lived in Kensington-square. 
 
 Holland House is associated " with the courtly magnificence of Rich, with the loves of Ormond, the 
 councils of Cromwell, with the death of Addison." It has been for nearly two centuries and a half the 
 favourite resort of wits and beauties, of painters and poets, of scholars, philosophers, and statesmen. 
 In the lifetime of Vassall Lord Holland it was the meeting-place of " the Whig Party ;" and his liberal 
 hospitality made it " the resort not only of the most interesting persons composing English society, 
 literary, philosophical, and political, but also to all belonging to those classes who ever visited this 
 country from abroad." (Lord Brougham.) In this delightful circle, " every talent and every accomplish- 
 ment, every art and science, had its place. . . The last debate was discussed in one corner, and the 
 last comedy of Scribe in another; while Wilkie gazed with admiration on Reynolds's Baretti; while 
 Mackintosh turned over Thomas Aquinas to verify a quotation; while Talleyrand related his conversa- 
 tion with Barras at the Luxembourg, or his ride with Lannes over the fields of Austerlitz." (Murray's 
 Environs of London.) " Holland House " (says Macaulay) " can boast of a greater number of 
 inmates distinguished in political and literary history than any other private dwelling in England." 
 
 HORSE-FERRY (THE), 
 
 "DETWEEN Westminster and Lambeth, was the only Horse-ferry permitted on the 
 -D Thames at London, and was granted* by patent to the Archbishop of Canterbury ; 
 the ferry-boat station being near the palace-gate. Here were two inns for the recep- 
 tion of travellers, who arriving at night, did not choose to cross the water at such an 
 hour, or in case of bad weather, might prefer waiting for better. On opening West- 
 minster Bridge, 1750, the ferry ceased, and compensation was granted to the See. 
 (BBIDGES, p. 69.) 
 
 The rates were, for a man and horse, 2s. ; horse and chaise, Is. ; coach and two 
 horses, Is. 6d. ; coach and four horses, 2s. ; coach and six horses, 2s. Gd. ; cart loaded, 
 2*. 6d. ; cart or wagon, each 2s. 
 
 At the time of the Usurpation, a wooden house was built for a small guard posted here. M. da 
 Lauzun mentions the ferry in his account of the escape of the Queen of James II., Dec. 9, 1688 : Sir 
 Edward Hales being in attendance with a hackney-coach, " we drove from Whitehall to Westminster, 
 and arrived saftly at the place called the Horse-ferry, where I had engaged a boat to wait for me." 
 
 The same author adds: "The King, attended by Sir Edward Hales, who was waiting for him,
 
 434 . CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 descended the back stairs, and crossing Privy Gardens, as the Queen had done two nights before, pro- 
 ceeded to the Horse-ferry, and crossed the Thames in a little boat with a single pair of oars to Vauxhall. 
 He threw the Great Seal into the river by the way ; but it was afterwards recovered, in a net cast at 
 random, by some fishermen." 
 
 " Very early one morning, the Duke of Marlborough, with his hounds, desired to cross by the Terry ; 
 one Wharton, the waterman at hand, was subsequently rewarded by the Duke obtaining for him a 
 grant of the Ferry-house, the present owner of which is a descendant of Wharton." Walcott's West- 
 minster, 1848, p. 333. 
 
 HORSE-GUARDS (THE), 
 
 AT Whitehall, is named from a troop of Horse-Guards being constantly on duty 
 here : the buildings comprise the offices of the Secretary -at- War, the Commander- 
 in-Chief, the Adjutant-General, and Quartermaster-General. The Horse-Guards were 
 originally raised by Charles II., who had built foa them stables and barracks in the 
 Tilt-yard of Whitehall, which Pennant has engraved, with " the Banqueting-house, 
 one of the gates, the Treasury in its ancient state, and the top of the Cock-pit in the 
 back view." These stables and barracks were removed in 1751, and the present 
 Horse-Guards was built of stone from a design commenced by Vardy, and completed 
 by Kent, " broken into complex forms, much in the picturesque style of Vanbrugh." 
 (Weale's London.) It consists of a centre and two pavilion wings, with a turret and 
 clock ; the west front opening into St. James's Park, by a low and mean archway ; 
 the entree for carriages is only for royal and other privileged personages. In 
 the rear is the parade-ground, part of the ancient Tilt-yard, with a guard station for 
 infantry; and here inspections of the troops take place. In the vestibule of the 
 building is the boundary-line of the parishes of St. Martin's and St. Margaret's, West- 
 minster, denoted by inscriptions. In the Audience-room, facing the Park, the Military 
 Secretary and the Commander of the Forces hold their levees : here are portraits, by 
 Gainsborough, of George III. and his Consort; and a bust of Field Marshal the Duke of 
 York. Attached to the Quartermaster-General's office is a Board of Topography, with a 
 depot of maps, plans, and a library of military works. In the Guards' Mess-room is a 
 portrait of Aubrey de Vere, Earl of Oxford, in armour, commander of Charles II. 'a 
 " Kegiment of Horse," and after whom were named the " Oxford Blues," now the 
 Royal Horse-Guards Blue. 
 
 In two stone alcoves, flanking the gates, facing Whitehall, is stationed a guard of two mounted 
 cavalry soldiers from ten to four o'clock, relieved every two hours ; when the doors in the rear are 
 thrown open, and the two relieving guards enter ; whilst those relieved ride out in front, describe a 
 semicircle, meet, and ride side by side through the central gate, and so back to their stable. Orders 
 concerning all the the Guards in London are given out by the field officer on duty at the Horse-Guards. 
 The marching and countermarching of the Guards drawn from the cavalry barracks at Knightsbridge 
 and the Regent's Park, is a picturesque scene, as the troop passes through the Parks, on the march 
 line of Portland-place, Regent-street, and Waterloo-place: their stately cuirassed and helmeted 
 figures, and the splendour of their accoutrements, rendering them the most magnificent " Household 
 troops " in Europe. 
 
 The Horse-Guards' Clock has about the same popular reputation for correct time at 
 the west end of the town, that St. Paul's clock holds in the City. The Horse-Guards' 
 Clock was originally made by Thwaites, in 1756. The Clock was repaired, and im- 
 provements added by Vulliamy and Sons, 1815-16 : it has since measured time with 
 sufficient accuracy for any practical purpose not connected with astronomical observa- 
 tions; but much of its reputation may be conventional from the rigid punctuality with 
 which the slightest military movement is executed. The dials are each 7 feet 5 inches 
 diameter, and painted white, with black numerals and hands ; the Whitehall dial is 
 very effectively illuminated at night by a strong light thrown from a lamp, with a 
 reflector, placed on the projecting roof in front of the clock-tower. 
 
 On the night before the Funeral of the Duke of Wellington, Nov. 18, 1852, the remains were removed 
 from Chelsea Hospital to the Audience Room in the Horse-Guards. Upon the parade-ground was 
 erected a gigantic pavilion, beneath which was the car of state, upon which, next morning, was placed the 
 coffin. At the word of command, "Present a?ms!" every musket and sword were raised, the muffled 
 drums gave a long and heavy roll, minute-guns fired a funeral salute, the troops were ordered to 
 "Reverse arms !" and there, in the attitude of mourners, and in view of the body of the illustrious 
 deceased, the military awaited the signal to move off. The word of command was given; every band 
 played "the Dead March in Saul;" a tremendous roll of drums denoted that the Coldstreams were 
 in motion, and the procession moved on. The twelve horses attached to the funeral car drew it from 
 under the tent ; the colonels carrying the bannerols surrounded the car, and their gaily-painted flags, 
 the rich bronze of the car, the gilt bier, the trophies of modern arms, the canopy of silver tissue and 
 the crimson and gold of the coffin, the pall powdered with silver heraldic collars ; with such pomp 
 and statcliness, the mortal remains of Wellington left the scene consecrated by his labours no less than 
 by his victories.
 
 HOSPITALS. 435 
 
 HOSPITALS. 
 
 OF the Charitable Institutions of the Metropolis, one quarter consists of General 
 Hospitals, Medical Charities for special purposes, Dispensaries, and Societies for 
 the preservation of life and public morals, mostly supported by donations and annual 
 subscriptions. We can only describe a few of such of these establishments as have 
 remarkable histories. 
 
 Of the Five ancient Royal Hospitals of the City of London, three are Medical : two 
 of these have been described as follows: ST. BARTHOLOMEW'S, p. 36 ; BETHLEHEM:, 
 p. 66. The third, ST. THOMAS'S HOSPITAL, Southwark, was originally a house of 
 alms, founded by the Prior of Bermondseye, in 1213, adjoining the wall of that 
 monastery. After the Surrender in 1539, it was purchased by the City of London, 
 chartered, in 1551, as one of the five royal foundations, and opened in 1552. In 1569, 
 the funds were so low that a lease was pawned for 50?. Strange mutations have come 
 over this spot, which for six centuries and a half had been the site of a Hospital, or 
 nearly three centuries and a half before it was refounded and endowed by the pious 
 King Edward VI., who confirmed the gift only ten days before his death ; and it was 
 delivered over by charter (the 5th and 7th of Edward VI.) to the mayor, commonalty, 
 and citizens of London, and was named the London House of the Poor in Southwark, 
 to be situated in London or Southwark, for poor, sick, infirm, wayfaring people. Much 
 injury was done to the property belonging to the establishment by the fires which took 
 place in Southwark in 1676, 1681, and 1689, although the Hospital itself suffered no 
 damage on either occasion. The Fire of 1676 consumed five hundred houses in Southwark, 
 " yet," says Hatton, " as by the particular will of Heaven, was extinguished at this Hos- 
 pital." However, at the close of the seventeenth century the buildings had become so 
 much decayed that there was founded a subscription fund, to which Robert Clayton, 
 the President, contributed 600?. ; he also bequeathed to the sick poor 2300?. The 
 Hospital was enlarged in 1732 : the wards Frederick and Guy were named from their 
 founders, the latter of whom built a pair of large iron gates ; on the two piers were 
 statues of cripples. The Hospital was, in part, reconstructed in 1835, by Sir Robert 
 Smirke and Mr. Field. The site of the new north wing of the Hospital, at the south 
 end of London-bridge, was purchased of the City of London for the sum of 40,850?., 
 which was not considered an extravagant price, though at the rate of 54,885?. per acre. 
 The site of two houses adjoining the above spot was sold by the Hospital to the City 
 at the enormous rate of 69,935?. per acre ! The Hospital consisted of three courts, and 
 colonnades : in the first court was a bronze statue of Edward VI., by Scheemakers, set up 
 by Charles Joyce, Esq., in 1737. In the second court was the chapel for patients 
 service daily ; St. Thomas's church, described at p. 208 ; the hall, and kitchen ; and over 
 the Doric colonnade was the Court-room, with portraits of Edward VI., William III. 
 and Queen Mary, Sir Robert Clayton, and other of the Hospital presidents. In the 
 third court was the statue of Sir Robert Clajton, robed as Lord Mayor, erected in his 
 life-time by the Hospital governors. In a smaller court were the cutting- ward, 
 surgery, bathing-rooms, theatre, and dead-house. There were twenty wards for 
 patients, each superintended by a Sister. The Hospital, of four acres, and buildings 
 were on the east side of High-street, Southwark, and the site was sold to the Charing- 
 cross Railway Company ; the Governors claiming as compensation 750,000?. The 
 Railway Company offered them terms equivalent to 400,000?. j and, after a litiga- 
 tion which absorbed little less than 25,000?., 296,000?. were awarded by the arbi- 
 trator. The patients were then removed to a temporary hospital, late a Music-hall, 
 Surrey Zoological Gardens. It was next proposed to rebuild the Hospital in the 
 country ; but the choice of a site in the metropolis prevailed. It was contended that in 
 1631 the Lord Mayor counted 16,880 persons in Southwark, and that now Southwark 
 and the neighbouring parishes, all of which are obliged to avail themselves largely of 
 the aid of this Hospital, contain more than half a million persons, the great majority of 
 whom are poor hardworking people. The site was definitively settled in Stangate, 
 facing the Thames, immediately west of the southern end of Westminster Bridge. 
 The income of the Hospital has increased from 12,000?. to 35,000?. since the beginning 
 of the century. Among the expenditure for 1861 is 5942?. for provisions, 2634?. for 
 
 v r 2
 
 436 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 drugs, 9321. for wine and spirits, 353Z. for porter, 777. for washing, 31561. for salaries 
 to medical officers, 2257Z. for wages to sisters and nurses, 1511. for hospital dinners, 
 and 747. for insurance against fire. The in-patients of the year were 3948 in num- 
 ber, the out-patients 41,814. 
 
 In November, 1866, was decided in the Court of Queen's Bench, the case relating to the right of the 
 Corporation of London as to the election of presidents of the four great City Hospitals. The question 
 was whether it was necessary that the president should be an alderman who had arrived at the dignity 
 of Lord Mayor; or, at all events, an alderman. There were two candidates, of whom Mr. Cubitt (since 
 deceased), who had the majority of votes, having resigned his gown although he had "passed the 
 chair" was not an alderman ; and his opponent, Alderman Hose, was at the time Lord Mayor, so that 
 he was both alderman and " Grey cloake" the term used in the ordinances to denote those aldermen 
 who had passed the chair. Judgment was given for the defendants that is, for the Hospital. The 
 result of the decision is that the Governors of the great Hospitals have free choice in the election of 
 their Presidents. 
 
 CHAEING-CBOSS HOSPITAL, Agar-street, was commenced by Decimus Burton, as a 
 portion of the West- Strand Improvements, in 1831 ; when the first stone was laid, 
 Sept. 1 5, with Masonic solemnity, by the Duke of Sussex, Grand Master of the Free- 
 masons. The Charity, founded in 1818, comprises a Dispensary and Casualty Hospital, 
 being the eighth established iu the metropolis, the population of which had doubled 
 since the seventh Hospital was instituted. The architecture is Grecian, and the circular 
 termination of the plan well accords with the form of the site. Although upwards of 
 1000 in-patients and 1 7,000 out have been treated in one year, the annual average ex- 
 penditure of the establishment is stated at only 25061. 
 
 One day a gentleman called at the Charing-cross Hospital and inquired of the porter whether some 
 money he had just put into one of the collecting-boxes would be safe. Having been assured it would, 
 he immediately went away. The same day a friend of the institution, walking past the above-men- 
 tioned box, saw, or fancied that he saw, something in it. On applying his penknife carefully, he suc- 
 ceeded in extracting twenty-two lOZ.-notes. Having taken these into the Hospital and informed the 
 resident officers of the circumstance, the box was examined, and three more notes found, making a total 
 of 250Z. thus freely and anonymously contributed to the funds of this deserving charity. 
 
 CONSUMPTION HOSPITAL, Brompton, fronting the Fulham-road, was commenced in 
 1844, June 11, when Prince Albert laid the first stone ; the site was formerly a nursery 
 garden, and the genial, moist air of Brompton has long been recommended for con- 
 sumptive patients. The Hospital is in the Tudor style, of red brick, with stone finish- 
 ings; Francis, architect ; it was opened in 1846. In 1850 was attached an elegant 
 memorial chapel (see CHAPELS, p. 213) ; and in 1852 was added the western wing of 
 he Hospital, towards which Mdlle. Jenny Lind, when residing at Old Brompton, in 
 July, 1848, munificently presented 16062. 16*., the proceeds of a concert held by her 
 for its aid. This noble act is gracefully commemorated by Mdlle. Lind's bust being 
 placed upon the Hospital staircase : here also is a painted window, of characteristic 
 design, presented by a governor. The Hospital is ventilated by machinery, worked by 
 a steam-engine ; and is warmed by water heated by two large Arnott stoves. In the 
 kitchen, steam is used for boiling caldrons of beef-tea, mutton-broth, arrow-root, coflfee, 
 chocolate, &c. ; and the provisions are wound up a shaft to the respective wards. The 
 patients take exercise in the well-ventilated passages : and the wards are tempered by 
 warm fresh air, which enters at the floor, and escapes by valves in the ceiling. There 
 are a library for the in-patients, and the Rose Charity Fund for convalescents. The 
 deaths in this new Hospital have never exceeded one in every five in-patients, whereas 
 in the former Hospital they were one in four. 
 
 FRENCH PEOTESTANT HOSPITAL, Victoria Park, South Hackney, was built in 1866, 
 in the pure French domestic style of the early part of the sixteenth century, corre- 
 sponding to our Tudor ; K. L. Roumieu, architect. It is 200 feet long, and stands on 
 three acres of pleasure-ground j it has 60 inmates, and a chapel for 120 persons. The 
 hospice owes its origin to a bequest of M. Gastigny, who held an appointment under 
 William III., and dying in 1708, left 10001. towards founding a permanent home and 
 place of temporary relief for poor French Protestants and their descendants resident 
 in England. To this fund the wealthier French Protestants contributed liberally, and 
 premises were built in a bye-lane leading from Old-street, St. Luke's, to Islington, now 
 Bath-street, City-road. Here the hospital remained until the removal to Victoria Park. 
 The old buildings in Bath-street are now the City of London Middle-Class School. 
 
 ST. GEOBGE'S HOSPITAL, Hyde-Park Corner, originated with a party of dissentient
 
 HOSPITAL GUTS. 437 
 
 Governors of Westminster Hospital, who, in 1733, converted Lanesborough House, 
 Grosvenor-place, into an Infirmary. Pennant describes the old mansion as the country- 
 home of 
 
 "The sober Lanesborow dancing, in the gout:" 
 
 hence also the quaint distich inscribed on the house-front : 
 
 " It is my delight to be 
 Both in town and country." 
 
 The Hospital has been rebuilt; architect, Wilkins, E.A., 1831; the grand front, 
 facing the Green Park, is very elegant. William Hunter was a surgical pupil at St. 
 George's in 17-11, when he resided with the eminent Smellie, at that time an apothe- 
 cary in Pall Mall. William's brother, John Hunter, was appointed surgeon to St. 
 George's in 1768 ; and here, in 1793, he died of disease of the heart. 
 
 GUY'S HOSPITAL, Southwark, on the south side of St. Thomas's-street, was built by 
 Dance, the City architect, in 1722-4, at the sole expense of Thomas Guy, the book- 
 seller in Lombard-street, who by printing and selling Bibles made a fortune : this ha 
 greatly increased by purchasing seamen's tickets at a large discount, and afterwarda 
 investing them in the South-Sea Company. 
 
 Guy was the son of a lighterman at Horselydown, where he was born in 1844. He was apprenticed 
 to John Clarke, bookseller and binder, in a house in the porch of Mercers' Hall, Cheapside, in 1660. In 
 this house, rebuilt after the Great Fire, Guy commenced business for himself; and he subsequently re- 
 moved to the house between Curnhill and Lombard-street, subsequently known as "the Lucky Corner," 
 and Pidding's Lottery Office, nearly on the site of the Globe Insurance Company's offices. Guy had 
 agreed to marry his housekeeper, who, however, displeased him, and thenceforth he devoted his immense 
 fortune to works of charity. In 1707, he built and furnished three wards of St. Thomas's Hospital ; the 
 stately iron gate, with the large houses flanking it in High-street, Guy also built at the expense of 30001. 
 He was a liberal benefactor to the Stationers' Company; built and endowed almshouses and a library 
 at Tamworth, in Staffordshire, the place of his mother's birth, and which he represented in Parliament. 
 In his 76th year, he took of the president and governors of St. Thomas's Hospital a piece of ground 
 opposite the south side of their Hospital for 999 years, at a ground-rent of 301. a year ; thereon, in the 
 spring of 1722, Guy laid the first stone of a Hospital for the cure of sick and impotent persons ; and yie 
 building was roofed in before his death, Dec. 27, 1724. The expense of erecting and finishing the Hos- 
 pital was 18.792Z. 16., and the sum left to endow it was 219,499. 0. 4d. ; the largest sum ever left by an 
 individual for charitable purposes. His noble example was followed by Mr. Hunt of Petersham, 
 who, in 1829, bequeathed to the Hospital 196.115/., stipulating for the addition of accommodation for 
 100 patients. About 10.000Z. was also received from other benefactors. 
 
 " The annual income is now between 25,0001. and 30,OOOZ., arising chiefly from estates purchased with 
 the valuable bequests of Guy and Hunt, in the counties of Essex, Hereford, and Lincoln. The usual 
 number of governors is 60, who are self-elective. The office cannot be constituted by any contribution, 
 and there is no published list of benefactors." Low's Charities of London, 1850. 
 
 Guy's Hospital consists of a centre and two wings; behind is a quadrangle, and 
 beyond is a lunatic house for twenty -four insane patients, with a garden and airing- 
 ground for their recreation ; in 1839, one of these patients had been in the Hospital 
 fifty-three years. In the wings are the officers' apartments, a surgery, apothecary's 
 shop, laboratories, medical and operating theatres, and a room for the application of 
 electricity and galvanism. Here, too, are a museum, library, a very fine anatomical 
 collection, models in wax by Towne, &c. Westward is the Chapel ; and eastward, the 
 Court-room. Attached to the Hospital is a botanic garden for the students. In 1852 
 were added two handsome wings, heated by Sylvester, and ventilated by a shaft 200 
 feet high, with an open cupola, and a wind-vane which sends down the shaft fresh 
 air into the wards ; while two lower shafts carry off the effluvia. In the front court 
 is a metal statue of Guy, in his livery-gown, by Scheemakers ; the pedestal bears 
 representations in relief of Christ healing an impotent man ; the Good Samaritan ; 
 Guy's arms, and an inscription. In the centre of the front are two characteristic 
 statues by John Bacon, a native of Southwark. 
 
 In the Chapel is a fine marble statue of Guy, by Bacon, which cost 1000Z. : he stands 
 in his livery-gown, with one hand raising an emaciated figure from the ground, and 
 with the other pointing to a second sufferer, as he is borne on a bier into the Hospital, 
 at the back : on the pedestal are emblematic medallions and a glowing inscription, 
 asserting that Guy "rivalled the endowment of kings." Here is buried Sir Astley 
 Cooper, the distinguished surgeon, to whom there is a marble monument. In the 
 Court-room, over the president's chair, is a portrait by Dahl, a Danish painter, of Guy, 
 in the black gown and long flowing wig of his time : on the ceiling is painted hU 
 apotheosis.
 
 438 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 KING'S COLLEGE HOSPITAL, Carey-street, Lincoln's-inn-fields, was established in 
 1839 for tlie sick poor, for affording practical instruction to the medical students of 
 King's College, under their own professors. The building of a new Hospital, by sub- 
 scription, was commenced June 18, 1852, when the first stone was laid by the Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury : the wards are very spacious, light, and airy ; with ventilation 
 by opposite windows and open fire-places, without artificial aid ; and the arrangements for 
 teaching include an operating theatre and chapel, dispensary, laboratory, &c. 
 
 LOCK HOSPITAL, Harrow-road ; CHAPEL and ASYLUM, Westbourne-green : the 
 Hospital established 1746, for the treatment of the peculiar disease incident to profli- 
 gate women ; the Asylum founded 1787 by the Bible commentator, the Rev. Thomas 
 Scott, for the reclamation of the cured inmates to virtuous habits ; and the Chapel 
 in 1764, for the ministration to the unfortunate patients and inmates. The establish- 
 ment was originally formed in Grosvenor-place, where the Chapel, by its popular 
 preachers, became a source of income to the institution. This is the only Asylum ex- 
 isting in connexion with a hospital ; all penitentiaries are necessarily shut against the 
 sick and dying outcasts ; and for such there is no complete refuge save " the Lock 
 Hospital." (See Low's Charities, p. 99.) In 1842, the Institution was removed to 
 its present site; in 1849, the success of an autograph appeal by the Duke of 
 Cambridge provided for the admission of double the number of patients. 
 
 The Lock Hospital is so called from the Loke or Lock, in Kent-street, South wark, a spittal for 
 leprous persons of early date. The name has been referred to the old French loques, rags, from the 
 linen applied to sores; "hut otherwise, and with more probability, from the Saxon loq, shut, closed, in 
 reference to the necessary seclusion of the leper on account of the infectious nature of his disease." 
 (Archer's Vestiges, Part I.) We find Lock "an infirmary" in Bailey's Dictionary. Others trace the 
 Southwark Hospital to the stream, or open sewer, called " the Lock," which divided the parishes of St. 
 George and St. Mary, Newington, and is shown hi Rocque's large map of Surrey. The Hospital known 
 to have existed temp. Edward II., had a chapel dedicated to St. Leonard. (Tanner.) It came into the 
 possession of St. Bartholomew's Hospital, whence it received patients : falling into decay, it was let in 
 tenements, was taken down in 1809, and its site laid into the Dover-road ; a portion of the site was, 
 however, consecrated as the parish burial-ground more than a century since, and so continues. 
 
 There were other " Locks -." 2. Between Mile End and Stratford-Ie-Bow. 3. At Kingsland. between, 
 Shoreditch and Stoke Newington, the chapel of which, St. Bartholomew's, remained till 1840. (See 
 CHAPELS, p. 209.) A sun-dial on the premises formerly bore this inscription, significant of sin and 
 sorrow : 
 
 " Post voluptatem misericordia." 
 
 Prior to its alienation from the mother hospital, the house had a communication with the chapel so con- 
 trived that the patients might take part in the service without seeing or being seen by the rest of the 
 congregation: and there was a similar arrangement in the Lock-chapel in Grosvenor-place. 4. At 
 Knightsbridge, east of Albert-gate, was a lazar-house under the patronage of the Abbot and Convent 
 of Westminster : the Hospital chapel (Holy Trinity) remains: it was rebuilt in 1627, by a licence from 
 Dr. Laud, then Bishop of London, as a chapel of ease to St. Martin' s-in-the-Fields, within the precincts 
 of which it was situated ; but it was subsequently assigned to the parish of St. George, Hanover-square, 
 and now forms part of Kensington. Notes and Queries, No. 114. 
 
 The two largest Leper Hospitals were, however, St. James's, Westminster, founded before the Con- 
 quest (Slow), and made a royal palace by Henry VIII. ; the original gateway remains. Next was 
 St. Giles' s-in-the-Fields, founded about 1117. (See ST. GILES'S, p. 376.) 
 
 LONDON HOSPITAL, Whitechapel-road, originally "the London Infirmary," was 
 instituted 1740, in a large old mansion in Prescott-street, Goodman's Fields ; it was 
 incorporated in 1758, and the present Hospital built on " the Mount," Whitechapel- 
 road. The Charity was established for the poor sick, particularly manufacturers, sea- 
 men, watermen, coal-heavers, shipwrights, labourers on the river, and children. In 
 1791, a Samaritan Society, at the suggestion of Sir W. Blizard (the first established), 
 was appended to this Hospital, for the benefit of homeless convalescents, sending them 
 to the sea-side, &c. 
 
 A new west wing to the Hospital was founded, July 4, 1864, by the Prince of 
 Wales, when nearly 32,OOOZ. was subscribed, of which 3000Z. was given in one dona- 
 tion by Mr. T. Fowell Buxton ; Mr. J. Gurney Barclay, 30001. ; and the Hon. Jamsetjee 
 Jejeebhoy, 2000. One ward is set apart for the exclusive use of members of the 
 Hebrew persuasion, of whom large numbers reside in the neighbourhood. The Lon- 
 don Hospital has been in active operation more than one hundred and twenty years, 
 during which period it has afforded medical and surgical assistance to one million three 
 hundred thousand persons. 
 
 ST. LUKE'S HOSPITAL for Lunatics was first established 1751, in a house upon 
 Windmill-hill, on the north side of Moorfields, nearly opposite the present Worship-
 
 HOSPITALS-ST. LUKE'S, MARYLEBONE, MIDDLESEX. 439 
 
 street. In 1753, pupils were admitted to the Hospital ; and Dr. Battle, the original 
 physician, allowed medical men to observe his practice. This practice fell into disuse, 
 tut was revived in 1843, and an annual course of chemical lectures established, at 
 which pupils selected by the physicians of the different metropolitan hospitals are 
 allowed to attend gratuitously. In 1754, incurable patients were admitted on payment 
 to the Hospital on Windmill-hill. In 1782, was commenced the present St. Luke's, in 
 Old-street-road, when green fields could be seen in every direction ; the foundation- 
 stone was laid by the Duke of Montague, July 30 ; the cost, about 5.0,0002., was de- 
 frayed by subscription ; George Dance, jun., architect. 
 
 " There are few buildings in the metropolis, perhaps in Europe, that, considering the poverty of the 
 material, common English clamp-bricks, possess such harmony of proportion, with unity and appro- 
 priateness of style, as this building. It is as characteristic of its uses as that of Newgate, by the same 
 architect." Elmes. 
 
 The Hospital was incorporated 1838 ; the end infirmaries added in 1841 ; a chapel 
 in 1842, and open fire-places set in the galleries; when also coercion was abolished, 
 padded rooms were provided for violent patients, and an airing-ground set apart for 
 them ; wooden doors were substituted for iron gates, and unnecessary guards and bars 
 removed from the windows. In 1843 were added reading-rooms and a library for the 
 patients, with bagatelle and backgammon-boards, &c. By Act 9 and 10 Viet., c. 100, 
 the Commissioners of Lunacy were added to the Hospital direction. In 1848, Sir 
 Charles Knightley presented an organ to the chapel, and daily service was first per- 
 formed. The Hospital was next lit with gas ; the drainage, ventilation, and supply of 
 water improved, by subscription at the centenary festival, June 25, 1851. 
 
 On St. Luke's Day (October 18), a large number of the Hospital patients are enter- 
 tained with dancing and singing in the great hall in the centre of the Hospital, when 
 the officers, nurses, and attendants join the festival. Balls are also given fortnightly. 
 
 The mode of treatment at St. Luke's has undergone so complete a metamorphosis 
 within the last few years, by the institution of kindness for severity, and indulgence 
 for restrictions, that the maladies of the brain have been rendered as subservient to 
 medical science as the afflictions of the body. Modern experience shows that the old 
 terrors of the prison, brutal execrations and violence, and those even worse scenes which 
 were exhibited for a small money payment to the curious, in the madhouses of the 
 metropolis and elsewhere, were errors. The per-centage of recoveries was, from 1821 
 to 1830 47-| per cent. ; 1831 to 1840, 56 ditto ; 1841 to 1850, 60f ditto ; showing 
 the results of the improved treatment. But the largest per-centage of recoveries, with 
 one exception, was 69f , in 1851. 
 
 MABYLEBONE AND PADDINGTOX HOSPITAL, Cambridge-place, was commenced in 
 1845, when, June 28 (Coronation -day), the first stone was laid by Prince Albert ; the 
 site was originally a reservoir of the Grand Junction Water-works. The Hospital, 
 opened in 1850, is of red brick, similar to Chelsea Hospital : it is warmed and venti- 
 lated by the circulation of tempered atmospheric air, and the withdrawal of the foul 
 air from the wards ; there are shafts for conveying the food from the kitchen and medi- 
 cines from the laboratory, besides other novel mechanical applications. Hon. architect, 
 Mr. Hopper. The present foundation comprehends three-fourths of the whole plan. 
 
 MIDDLESEX HOSPITAL, Charles-street, facing Berners-street, was established 1745 : 
 the present building was commenced in 1755, then in Marylebone-fields ; and much 
 enlarged and improved in 1848 ; the baths, cooking apparatus, laboratory works, 
 ventilating shaft, and laundry, are supplied with steam-power. The Cancer-ward, a 
 special addition in this Hospital, was made in 1792, upon a plan by the benevolent 
 John Howard, at the sole expense of Mr. Whitbread, M.P., who endowed the ward 
 with 40002., that cancer-patients might, if necessary, remain here for life. 
 
 In the Council-room is a large vellum Benefaction-book, wherein are beautifully written the names of 
 the Benefactors to the Hospital, from its foundation. The binding is elaborately carved oak, by W. G. 
 Kogers ; and the clasps, corners, and bosses are rich ormolu. This sumptuous volume is protected by 
 an ornamental iron stand ; it is intended to supersede the large black benefaction-boards which cover 
 the hospital walls. 
 
 One day a lady, being permitted to visit the wards, went from bed to bed, and in the most quiet 
 and gracious manner presented halt'-a-sovereign to almost every one of the patients as a New Year's 
 gift, and as a thanks-ottering for her recovery from a dangerous illness. The number of patients so 
 relieved amounted to nearly 300.
 
 440 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 OPHTHALMIC (ophthalmos, Gr., the eye) HOSPITALS, were established in 1804; that 
 in Moorfields being the first. 
 
 It was founded in 1804; it has afforded relief to upwards of half a million persons suffering from 
 diseases of the eye. The number of attendances annually at this hospital is about 80,000. In one year 
 the new cases alone amounted to 17,000; among these above 350 persons afflicted with blindness from 
 cataract and other analogous affections were restored to light. The average attendance daily is from 
 300 to 400. An amount of relief is confidently stated to be thus obtained far greater than that 
 afforded by any similar establishment in Europe. The explanation may be found hi the dense popula- 
 tion by which it is surrounded, and the high reputation it has so long enjoyed, bringing patients from 
 India, America, Australia, and our remotest colonies. 
 
 The Royal Infirmary, Cork-street, was founded in 1804, by Sir Walter Waller 
 (originally Phipps, the celebrated oculist), submitting to their Majesties a plan suggested 
 by the sufferings he was then endeavouring to relieve among the soldiers and sailors 
 who had returned from the Egyptian Expedition. The late Duke of Wellington was 
 president of the Royal Westminster Ophthalmic Hospital, Chandos- street, Charing- 
 cross, where patients are admitted without letters. 
 
 ORTHOPAEDIC (orthos, Gr., straight, and paidos, of a child) HOSPITAL, ROYAL, 6, 
 Bloomsbury- square, established 1838 for the cure of club-foot and other contractions, 
 by dividing the tendons, &c., was founded by Dr. Little, who introduced the Stromey- 
 erian operation of subcutaneous tenotomy into the metropolis. The Hospital has been 
 removed to 315, Oxford-street. 
 
 QTTEEN CHARLOTTE'S LYING-IN HOSPITAL was originally established in 1752 in 
 St. George's-row, near Tyburn turnpike, whence it was removed to Bayswater in 1791 ; 
 and in 1810, to Lisson-green ; the Hospital was rebuilt in 1857. This excellent 
 charity has been patronized by Queen Charlotte, the Duke of Sussex, Queen Adelaide, 
 and every member of the Royal family. It affords an asylum for indigent females 
 during childbirth, as well as to out-patients, especially to the wives of soldiers or 
 sailors ; penitent patients are admitted once, but in no instance a second time. 
 
 ROYAL FREE HOSPITAL, Gray's-inn-road, affording free and instant relief to the 
 destitute sick, was originally founded 1828, in Greville-street, Hatton-garden : in 
 1832 700 cholera patients were admitted here, when other hospitals were closed against 
 them ; a demonstration of the free principle which led to the removal of the Hospital, 
 in 1843, to the present premises, formerly the barracks of the Light-Horse Volun- 
 teers. The establishment of this Hospital was prompted by its founder, Mr. Marsden, 
 a surgeon, having seen in the winter of 1827 a wretched young woman lying on the 
 steps of St. Andrew's Churchyard, Holborn-hill, after midnight, perishing through dis- 
 ease and famine : she was a stranger in London, without a friend, and died two days 
 afterwards unrecognised ! The " Sussex Ward" was built as a memorial of the Duke 
 of Sussex, of whom here is a portrait-statue in a niche in the front. 
 
 At the Hospital -gate, in Gray's-inn-road, is a subscription-box, wherein have been found the following 
 donations by stealth : Dec. 27, 1843, a bank-note for 100J., labelled " A Passer-by ;" June 14, 1844, 100J., 
 " Another Passer-by ;" Nov. 2, 1844, \00l., with " Winter is coming on Sis dat qui cito dat ;" Oct. 9, 
 1850, 501. ; June 21, 1851, 201. ; and frequently bank-notes of 10Z. and 51. 
 
 ROYAL MATERNITY CHARITY (Office, 17, Little Knightrider-street, Doctors' Com- 
 mons) provides advice and good nurses for delivering poor married women at their 
 own homes in Eastern London ; and the cases annually average nearly 3500. 
 
 This institution was originally founded as "the Lying-in Charity," in 1768. The Prince of Wales, 
 when but five years old, being nominated president, a donation of 5001. was made in his name ; thence- 
 forth he contributed annually Wl. George IV. became president in 1818; and from the time of his 
 Kcgcncy to his death, contributed to the Hospital fund ISQol. 
 
 SMALL-POX AND VACCINATION HOSPITAL, instituted 1746, for those attacked with 
 natural small-pox, and for preventing it by vaccination, was first opened at Battle 
 Bridge, St. Pancras, 1767 ; but this Hospital and site being required for the terminus 
 of the Great Northern Railway Company, the Hospital was rebuilt in a healthy and 
 picturesque situation at the foot of Highgate-hill, at a cost of 20,OOOZ., paid out of the 
 Railway Company's compensation. 
 
 UNIVERSITY COLLEGE HOSPITAL, Upper Gower-street, was founded 1833, under the 
 presidency of Lord Brougham, in connexion with University College, which the Hospital 
 bulkling faces : it is attended by the medical officers and students of the College. 
 
 WESTMINSTER HOSPITAL originated from an infirmary " for relieving the sick and
 
 HOTELS. 441 
 
 needy," and is the oldest subscription hospital in the metropolis. It was first 
 established in Petty France, next in Chapel-street, then in James-street ; and the pre- 
 sent noble Hospital was built in the Broad Sanctuary, opposite Westminster Abbey, 
 upon a piece of ground purchased of the Government for 6000Z., originally part of the 
 site of the ancient Sanctuary cruciform church, and subsequently of Westminster 
 Market. The Hospital foundation is six feet depth of concrete ; the design, by the 
 Inwoods, is Elizabethan, with windows temp. Henry VII. ; the central and end oriels, 
 and the embattled porch, are fine ; the whole frontage is 200 feet, and the windows 
 number two hundred and sixty; the roof, nearly half an acre, is an airing- walk for 
 the patients. The building is embattled throughout ; the materials are white Suffolk 
 bricks, with stone finishings; and among the enrichments are bosses of the West- 
 minster portcullis arms. 
 
 The Medical Students of the various Hospitals have long been noted for their irregularities ; and in 
 3851, Mr. Henry, a Bow-street magistrate, described them as " the most disorderly class with whom the 
 police and magistrates have to deal." To this unqualified stigma has however been opposed the assertion, 
 that " almost every idle dissolute young man, who in a fit of drunken folly is guilty of some crime, will, if 
 he wears a decent garb, arrogate to himself a respectability to which he has no right, by claiming the 
 title of a Medical Student." Mr. Albert Smith, himself a " Middlesex man," was the first to sketch the 
 Medical Student's life in London." (See Punch, vol. ii.) 
 
 DISPEXSABIES were first established in 1770, when the Royal Dispensary was 
 founded in Shaftesbury House, Aldersgate-street. There are now upwards of forty 
 Dispensaries in the metropolis. 
 
 "Medicine and every other relief under the calamity of bodily diseases, no less than the daily neces- 
 saries of life, are natural provisions which God has made for our present indigent state, and which He 
 has granted in common to the children of men, whether they be rich or poor : to the rich by inheritance 
 and acquisition ; and by their hands, to the disabled poor. Nor can there be any doubt that Public Dis-. 
 pensaries are the most effectual means of administering sick relief." Bishop Butler. 
 
 HOTELS. 
 
 THERE is no capital in Europe, always saving Constantinople, which, until recently, 
 was not better provided with good average comfortable upper and middle-class 
 Hotels, than London. A few private houses knocked somehow into one have been 
 thought a large and grand hotel, for it is only within the last few years that the 
 obvious necessity which existed for constructing a building specially for Hotel purposes has 
 been slowly recognised in this country. This new class of Hotels originated with the great 
 Railway Companies. 
 
 Thus, we have the EUSTON, adjoining the terminus of the North- Western Railway; 
 but this edifice is not remarkable for its architectural embellishment. 
 
 The GEEAT-WESTEBN HOTEL, adjoining the Great- Western Railway Terminus, at 
 Paddington, is of more ornate character ; it was designed in 1852, P. Hardwick, R.A., 
 architect, in the style of Louis XIV., or later; the curved-roof forms were then a 
 striking novelty ; four colossal termini, finely modelled, support the central balcony, 
 and over them are casts of the Warwick vase ; and in the pediment above is a group of 
 Britannia, surrounded by personations of the six parts of the world, and of their arts 
 and commerce. The exterior is of stucco ; and the ornaments and projections are in rich 
 and bold style, the figures by Thomas. The number of bed, dressing, and sitting- 
 rooms, about 150 ; the passages and staircases are fire-proof. The chief coffee-room, 
 and the saloon above it, are magnificent. 
 
 The GBEAT NOETHEBN, adjoining the terminus of the Great Northern Railway, 
 King's Cross, has, architecturally, little to claim notice. 
 
 THE PALACE HOTEL, Buckingham-gate, Murray, architect, is a standard model of 
 what the highest class of Family Hotel should be. Outside it is only a handsome 
 range of buildings ; inside it has costly and luxurious suites of rooms. The ventilation 
 is perfectly arranged, and, though there is a constant current of air through all the 
 building from basement to roof, the Hotel is always kept at a mild and equal tempera- 
 ture by hot-air pipes along each corridor, and leading into every apartment. Lifts 
 communicate with each floor, so as to render every story complete in itself, with its 
 service-room and heating apparatus, for serving dinners on the various landings. The 
 entire structure is as perfectly fire-proof as the use of stone and brick along all the 
 various stairways and corridors can make it.
 
 442 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 THE WESTMINSTER PALACE HOTEL, facing the Abbey, has one of the best situations 
 in London, and is a very good example of French Renaissance architecture. It 
 realizes the expectations even of the luxurious of the commercial classes. One-half of 
 the hotel is let to the India Board, else this building alone would contain three 
 hundred rooms. It has thirteen sitting-rooms, gentlemen's and ladies' coffee-rooms 
 (the latter an exceedingly fine apartment), several committee and dining-rooms, with 
 one hundred and thirty bedrooms, besides servants' apartments. 
 
 THE LONDON BRIDGE HOTEL, Curry, architect, exactly adjoins the terminus on the 
 side of the Brighton and South Coast Railway. As a building, it is inferior only to 
 the Grosvenor in sine and external appearance. It contains, in all, about two hundred 
 and fifty rooms. There is an exceedingly magnificent coffee-room, with a smaller one, 
 decorated in the same style, for the use of ladies only. There are spacious bed and 
 dressing-rooms, with suites of apartments for families ; reading, billiard, and smoking- 
 rooms. This is the only Hotel of the new class which has a billiard-room. Like the 
 other Hotels, the London Bridge is fire-proof, and is further provided with a powerful 
 water supply, and fire-mains, with hoses, on each floor. An air-shaft passing up the 
 building gives the most perfect ventilation to every floor, of which there are seven. 
 The exterior has a heavy cornice, and terminates in a Mansard roof. 
 
 THE GEOSYENOB HOTEL, Victoria Station, Pimlico, J. T. Knowles, architect, is of vast 
 extent 262 feet long, 75 deep, and 150 high to the top of the roof. The exterior is 
 elaborately decorated. The spandrels on the first floor are in Portland stone, and 
 represent her Majesty the Queen, the Prince Consort, Humboldt, Lord Palmerston, 
 Lord Derby, Lord John Russell, and others. At the side facades are representations 
 of the four quarters of the globe ; and colossal festoons of flowers are suspended be- 
 tween the ground-floor windows. The enriched string, the trusses, and the leafage, 
 are of Portland cement, coloured while " green," to match the stone ; the carving by 
 Dayman. On the ground-floor are a spacious hall, enriched with scagliola columns, 
 and reaching to the second-floor corridor ; dining, drawing, and sitting-rooms the 
 principal coffee-room, 69 feet by 36, and 18 in height ; a smoking-room, &c. The first 
 and second floors are chiefly suites of rooms for families ; the upper rooms are bed- 
 rooms, the top story for servants only. On the first floor is a wide gallery entirely 
 round the central hall. The whole building contains upwards of 300 rooms, many 
 superb suites, including suites for wedding-breakfasts. The smoking-room, with its 
 light, handsome columns', its groined arch roof, and ample windows, looks into the 
 Station. The principal staircase is one of the finest features in the building : after 
 the first floor the stairs diverge right and left ; 1500 feet of stone corridors traverse 
 the centre of the building on its various floors from end to end. There is one staircase 
 for servants in the northern end of the building ; the corresponding space in the 
 southern wing being occupied by a lift, the cage of which is 8 feet square. This is 
 worked by a very simple hydraulic apparatus, Easton and Amos, engineers, and passes 
 up a shaft along the various floors of the building from top to bottom ; it is equal to 
 raising ten persons at one time. There are bath-rooms in all the landings, with ser- 
 vices of hot and cold water and speaking-tubes to every floor. The cost of this splendid 
 building is stated at considerably more than 100,000. 
 
 THE LANGHAM HOTEL, Portland-place, Giles and Murray, architects, is a sumptuous 
 pile, and contains forty drawing and private sitting-rooms, and 300 bedrooms. THE 
 AGRICULTURAL HOTEL, Salisbury-square, Giles, architect, is of much less architectural 
 pretension. THE INNS OF COURT HOTEL, Lockwood and Mawson, architects, has an 
 Italian front, with polished granite and serpentine shafts, in Holborn ; the original 
 design includes a large central covered court, and a front in Lincoln's-inn-fields. 
 
 THE CHARING CROSS HOTEL AND RAILWAY STATION is in the Italian style, order 
 Corinthian, E. M. Barry, architect. The principal entrances have polished granite 
 columns, and carving above, and the chimney-stocks have red terra-cotta shafts. The 
 railway offices are in the basement. The suites of apartments are superb ; there are 
 250 bedrooms ; the building extends nearly as far down Villiers-street as along the 
 Strand. In the court-yard is a reproduction of the Eleanor Cross, at Charing Cross.
 
 HOUNDSDITCH. 443 
 
 THE CITY TEEMIXUS HOTEL, Cannon-street, is by the architect of the Charing Cross 
 Hotel. Both buildings have pavilions at the ends of the principal front, with high 
 truncated roofs, ornamented in zinc ; they have each a Mansard roof to the portion 
 between these wings, and chimneys having small columns at their ends ; in each case 
 there are enclosed porches to the wings, and a pent-roof for the whole length between ; 
 in each there are balconies with flower-vases on the pedestals, and with the supporting 
 cantilevers of the same character of profile. 
 
 The City Terminus Hotel has provision for public meetings and banquets, a noble 
 coffee-room, a great hall for public dinners and balls, and a large meeting-room ; and 
 it has a restaurant, as well as a chop-room and a luncheon-bar, besides the refresh- 
 ment-bar and the dining-room immediately attached to the station. Including the 
 ground-story, chiefly appropriated to the railway booking-offices, there are four ordinary 
 stories in the principal front of the building, above ground, and two stories in the 
 roof. In the Charing Cross Hotel there are five stories of ordinary windows, including 
 a mezzanine : whilst each pavilion has an additional story ; and there are two ranges 
 of dormers in the centre-portion of the front, and three ranges of dormers and lucarnes 
 in the pavilions. The frontage of the Cannon-street building is about 213 ft. in length : 
 that of the Charing Cross Hotel is 227 ft. the railing in the Strand being 11 ft. 
 longer. The Cannon-street front comprises eleven bays; the porches project 14 ft. 
 The height of the main portion of the building, comprising the four ordinary stories, 
 is 7G ft. 3 in., to the top of the cornice. Above this, to the highest part of 
 the main roof is about 23 ft., and to the highest part of the pavilion-roofs 
 32 ft. A tower at the south-east angle, containing a ventilating-shaft and the 
 kitchen-flue, rises higher j whilst the highest points of all are reached by the gilded 
 metal-work finials of the spire-cappings of the two turrets, which are grouped with 
 the pavilions in the principal front. Much of the space in the building being 
 devoted to rooms for dinners and meetings, there are few bedrooms in proportion to 
 the size of the structure, or as compared with the provision in the Charing Cross 
 Hotel. There appear to be eighty-four bed and dressing-rooms. Amongst the lead- 
 ing features of the Cannon-street exterior are the spire-capped turrets and the con- 
 tinuous balconies. The pilasters on the piers between the windows of the first-floor, 
 are enriched somewhat in the manner of the Renaissance. The pedestals of the crown- 
 ing balustrade have rusticated obelisk-formed terminals, of Elizabethan character, 
 in terra cotta ; each one having a small gilt ball at the top. The dormer windows have 
 two arch-beaded lights, with pilasters and trusses, carrying a pediment whose tympanum 
 is enriched. In the upper part of the pavilion-roofs there are lucarne-lights. The 
 roofs are ornamented at the angles, and at the edges round the flat top of each pavilion, 
 by very bold ornament in stamped zinc, executed, like that of the other Hotel, by 
 French workmen. Each turret terminates in a belvidere-story, open, above the cor- 
 nice ; and with a domical covering, ending in a spire. The front of the Hotel looking 
 into the station has three lofty and bold arches, having coffers in the soffits enriched 
 with rosettes. The Hotel building is stated to have cost about 100,000. 
 
 HOUNDSDITCH 
 
 T^ XTENDS from opposite St. Botolph's Church, Bishopsgate-street, to St. Botolph'g, 
 -t-J Aldgate. Beaumont and Fletcher call it Dogsditch. 
 
 " From Aldgate north-west to Bishopsgate lieth the ditch of the City called Houndsditch, for that 
 in old time, when the same lay open, much filth (conveyed from the City), especially dead dogs, were 
 there laid or cast." Stoic. 
 
 Into this filthy diteh, by command of King Canute, was thrown Edie, the Saxon, the murderer of his 
 master, Kdmnnd Ironside, after having been drawn by his heels from Baynard's Castle, and tormented 
 to death by burning torches. The ditch was subsequently enclosed with a mud wall, against which was 
 a" fair field," with cottages for poor bed-rid people, and where devout people walked (especially on Fri- 
 days) to relieve the bed-ridden, who lay on the ground-floor, at the window, with a clean linen cloth, and 
 a pair of beads, to show to charitable passengers that " there lay a bed-rid body, unable but to pray only." 
 
 Houndsditch was first paved 1503. Late in the reign of Henry VIII. a foundry 
 for casting brass ordnance was established here, which drove the poor bed-rid 
 people out of their cottages ; and upon their site were built houses and shops for 
 " brokers, joyners, braziers, and such as deal in old clothes, linen, and upholstery." 
 (Strype.) Braziers abound here to the present day. Here lived Tench, the joiner, to
 
 444 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 whom it was sworn on the trial of Hugh Peters, 1860, that his orders were given on 
 the scaffold to prepare the hlock for the beheading of Charles I. ; and in Rosemary - 
 lane lived Ralph Jones, the ragman, who assisted Brandon, the common hangman, in 
 the execution. Anthony Munday speaks indignantly of the unconscionable broking 
 usurers, a base kind of vermin, who had crept into Houndsditch ; which, with Long- 
 lane, were the Rag Fairs of two centuries since ; and Houndsditch is to this day the 
 centre of the Jews' quarter. 
 
 Houndsditch was also the general name of the different parts of the City ditch. In a 
 chartulary of St. Giles's Hospital, beginning of fifteenth century, Houndesdic and 
 Houndesdich are part of the ditch in the parish of St. Sepulchre. Howell's Londino- 
 polis shows, by the same name, parts of the fosse between Ludgate and Newgate; 
 and by Barbican. 
 
 HOUSES OF OLD LONDON. 
 
 \ NTERIOR to the reign of Stephen, Houses in London were built much as they 
 *- had been in the earlier Saxon times, almost wholly of wood, roofed with straw and 
 reeds : thus a carpenter is described as " making houses and bowls." Hence the 
 frequent fires ; and especially the great conflagration of 1097, which spread from 
 London Bridge to the church of St. Clement Danes, in the Strand. By an assize (1st 
 year of Richard I.) all houses in London were hereafter to be built of stone, with 
 party-walls of the same : but this mandate was rarely complied with ; and it was not 
 until the reign of Edward IV., when brick was made from the clay of Moorfields, that 
 it occasionally took the place of the timber which had hitherto been used for houses ; 
 reeds were then replaced by tiles and slates. In two centuries, to gain ground, many 
 stone houses were taken down, and others of timber built in their place ; and it is dis- 
 tinctly stated that London, to the period of the Great Fire 1666, was chiefly built of 
 chestnut, filled up with plaster. After the Great Fire, the houses were rebuilt with 
 brick ; but between 1618 and 1636 several fine brick houses were erected in Alders- 
 gate-street, Great Queen-street, Lincoln's-inn-fields, and Covent Garden. Still, the 
 general form of roof was the high-pitched gable, whole rows of which have disappeared 
 in our time, with several specimens of florid plaster and carved wood fronts. Very few 
 specimens, however, remain.* 
 
 Aldersgate-street has several house-fronts with remains of sixteenth and seventeenth 
 century carving and other ornaments. (See also p. 449.) 
 
 Aldgate High-street, No. 76, with central bay-windows, enriched brackets, and a 
 projecting penthouse-shop, has panels decorated with the Prince of Wales' feathers, the 
 fleur-de-lis of France, the Thistle of Scotland, portcullis of Westminster, &c. 
 
 Ashburnham House, Little Dean's-yard, and Cloisters, Westminster Abbey, was origi- 
 nally built by Inigo Jones, on chapter land, for the Ashburnham family ; it was purchased 
 by the Crown of John Earl of Ashburnham, in 1730. Here the Cotton Library of 
 MSS. was deposited. On October 23, 1731, a fire broke out here, when of the 948 
 volumes, 114 were lost or spoiled, and 98 much damaged. All that remains in the 
 western portion of the house, are an exquisitely proportioned drawing-room ; the 
 dining-room, once a state bed-room, with a graceful alcove ; and a staircase, one of the 
 finest of Inigo Jones's interior works. Sir John Soane had careful drawipgs made of 
 the house. In the cellars, it is said, were some remains of the conventual buildings ; 
 and a capital of the time of King Edward the Confessor, which was built into the 
 modern wall. 
 
 Bagnio, the, in Bath-street, Newgate-street, was built by Turkey merchants, and 
 first opened in 1679 (Aubrey), for sweating, rubbing, shaving, hot-bathing, and cup- 
 ping, after the Turkish model. The cupola-roof and walls neatly set with Dutch tiles, 
 described by Hatton in 1708, exist to this day : it is now a cold bath. 
 
 * The remains of Roman London consist chiefly of portions of the City wall, foundations of build- 
 Ings ; tesselated pavements, often of so much beauty as to denote a corresponding style in the super- 
 structure ; baths, sewers, bronzes, and various ornaments admirable as works of art. A Roman bath 
 nearly complete still exists in Strand-lane ; and a Roman hypocaust is preserved beneath the Coal Ex- 
 change (see p. 329). The remains of the eupentructuret of Roman London which have yet been dis- 
 covered, are, however, unimportant.
 
 HOUSES OF OLD LONDON. 445 
 
 Bangor House, Shoe-lane, south of St. Andrew's Church, is descrihed as the palace 
 of the Bishops of Bangor in a roll of 48 Edward III. Being deserted as an episcopal 
 residence, some mean dwellings were built upon the grounds ; yet a garden with lime- 
 trees, and a rookery, long remained. The last of the mansion, octangular and two- 
 storied, was removed in 1828; but is kept in memory by "Bangor House;" and by 
 Bangor-court, opposite which are some remains of " Oldborne Hall," in Stow's time 
 " letten out in divers tenements." 
 
 Baumes, or Balmes (from two Spanish merchants so named), stood west of the 
 Kingsland-road, Hoxton, and was taken down in 1852. It was built by the Balmeses, 
 about 1440 ; Sir George Whitmore resided here occasionally when lord mayor, 1631 ; 
 and on this spot Sir W. Acton, lord mayor, with the aldermen, &c., waited the arrival 
 of Charles I. on his return from Scotland, Nov. 25, 1641 ; when the royal coaches were 
 conducted, by a road formed for the occasion, through Balmes's grounds to Hoxton, 
 and thence to Moorgate, into the City, the road between Kingsland and Shoreditch 
 being then impassable by " the depth and foulness of it." Baumes-march was long a 
 favourite archery and artillery exercise ;* but the ground attached to the house is now 
 the site of De Beauvoir Town, named from the De Beauvoir family, its owners since 
 1696. A print of 1580 shows Baumes, with its gate-house, farmery, spacious gardens 
 and grounds, avenues of fruit-trees and stately elms ; and the Italianized brick mansion 
 with its two-storied roof, moated and approached by a drawbridge j the house and moat 
 were supplied from the ancient well in Canonbury Field. The interior of Balmes was 
 rich in carved ceilings, panelling and staircase, armorial glass and tapestry. 
 
 Brook's Menagerie (subsequently Herring's), an old wooden house at the western 
 corner of Brook-street, New-road, was standing when Tottenhall Fa'!r was in its glory ; 
 and almost the only house between St. Giles's Pound and Primrose-hill was Tottenhall, 
 a house of entertainment in 1645, on the site of which is the " Adam and Eve tavern." 
 
 Bulk Shops have only disappeared in our time. In 1846 was taken down an old 
 house south-west of Temple Bar, which is engraved in Archer's Vestiges, part i. A 
 view in 1795, in the Crowle Pennant, presents one tall gable to the street ; but the 
 pitch of the roof had been diminished by adding two imperfect side gables. The heavy 
 pents originally traversed over each of the three courses of windows ; it was a mere 
 timber frame filled up with lath and plaster, the beams being of deal with short oak 
 joints : it presented a capital example of the old London bulk-shop (sixteenth century), 
 with a heavy canopy projecting over the pathway, and turned up at the rim to carry 
 off the rain endwise. This shop had long been held by a succession of fishmongers, 
 among whom was the noted Crockford, who quitted it for " play" in St. James's (see 
 CLTJB-HOTTSES, pp. 246, 247). Crockford would not permit this house-front to be altered 
 in his lifetime. 
 
 Burnet's (Bishop) House, St. John's-square, Clerkenwell, is now let in tenements, 
 and has an arched thoroughfare to a court of houses built on the site of the garden. 
 In this house Burnet died 1715, and was buried in St. James's Church, when the 
 rabble threw dirt and stones at his funeral procession. The Bishop's house and tomb 
 are engraved from original drawings in the Mirror, 1837, No. 836. 
 
 Campden House, Kensington, originally approached from the town by an avenue of 
 elms, was built about 1612 by Sir Baptist Hicks, afterwards Viscount Campden, who 
 purchased the property of Sir Walter Cope ; or, traditionally, won it of him " at some 
 sort of game." The house was of red brick, with stone finishings, and had a centre 
 porch, bay-window once fitted with armorial glass, and flanking turrets with cupolas. 
 The great dining-room, in which Charles II. supped with Lord Campden, had a rich 
 armorial ceiling in stucco, floridly carved wainscot, and a tabernacle mantelpiece, with 
 Corinthian columns and caryatidal figures, finely sculptured. The State apartments on 
 the first floor included Queen Anne's bedchamber ; and the Globe room, originally a 
 chapel, and communicating with the garden terrace : the other rooms had richly stuc- 
 coed ceilings and marble mantelpieces. During the Protectorate, the Sequestration 
 
 The Eobin Hood public-house (now refronted) originally looked over Finsbury-fields, and was 
 
 JBVWUB U*WU JJUUli^-lluuac ^IIUVY 1 U1ILFU LCU/ UCUUUAUJ lUUtVCU UVC1 J: 1IIH UUlJ -I1U1U , tlUU W38 
 
 juented by the metropolitan archers ; the sign, Kobin Hood and Little John, in Lincoln-green, 
 formerly swung: from a tree before the door. A few dealers in archery implements, and preservers of 
 animals, have lingered in the City-road to our day the last relics of the chivalry of Hogsden, Finsbury, 
 and Moorfields.
 
 446 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Committee sat here. Queen Anne, when Princess of Denmark, resided five years at 
 Campden House, with her son the Duke of Gloucester, who kept a regiment of boy- 
 soldiers here, and had a puppet-theatre built. Lord Lechmere, the lawyer and staunch 
 Whig, lived here when he had his quarrel with Sir John Guise, ridiculed in Swift's 
 ballad of " Duke upon Duke :" 
 
 " Back in the dark, by Brompton Park, 
 
 He turn'd up thro' the Gore, 
 And slunk to Campden-house so high, 
 
 All in his coach and four. 
 The Duke in wrath called for his steeds, 
 
 And fiercely drove them on : 
 Lord ! Lord ! .how rattled then thy stones, 
 
 O kingly Kensington !" 
 
 Swift had lodged at Kensington, and well knew the locality. The gardens, in which 
 the wild olive and the caper-tree once flourished, had been much reduced ; but the 
 house retained its original front. In the spring of 1862, by a conflagration of remarkable 
 rapidity, Campden House was reduced to blackened and windowless walls : it has been 
 rebuilt in the same style. The historic interest of the place had ceased some sixty years 
 Tjefore. Among the relics are two dogs (supporters of the Campden arms), which for- 
 merly surmounted the gateway-piers, and are cleverly sculptured. Westward is Little 
 Campden Souse, built during the Princess Anne's residence at Campden House : it has 
 an outer arcaded gallery ; and was once occupied by the Right Hon. William Pitt. 
 
 Canonbury Place, Islington, was originally the country-house of the Priors of St. 
 Bartholomew. (See CANONBUBY TOWEB, p. 78.) 
 
 "Canonbury House internally is one of the richest specimens of the architecture of James I. in the 
 neighbourhood of London. The house, or rather the remains, form at the present time several large 
 dwelling-houses; including a portion of the old great chamber, with a rich ceiling, date 1599, a quaintly 
 carved oak fireplace, with statuettes of Mars and Venus draped, and a doorway with bust of an old 
 English gentleman and dame, the Eoinan mouldings and enriched frieze very fine; several other rooms 
 are sumptuously carved, and the parlour retains its original decoration." C.J. Richardson, F.S.A. 
 
 Carlisle Souse, Carlisle-street, Soho-square, formerly the mansion of the Dowager 
 Lady Carlisle, was built temp. James II. : it has a marble-floored hall and grand deco- 
 rated staircase; the rooms are large and lofty, and have enriched ceilings. The 
 mansion originally stood in the midst of a garden, a portion of which remains in the 
 rear ; the " cherry-garden" is built upon. The lower walls of Carlisle House are of 
 old English bond, of brilliant red brick ; the leadwork of the cistern is dated 1669, the 
 year of the creation of the Earldom of Carlisle. The mansion was long tenanted by 
 Angelo, the fencing-master ; also by W. Gibbs Rogers, the carver : and in the ball- 
 room the College of the Freemasons of the Church held their monthly meetings. 
 
 " Caxton's Souse," Westminster, and other old houses in the Almonry, are described 
 at p. 6. The identification of the old Printer's house is very doubtful. 
 
 Crosby Sail, Bishopsgate-street, the finest specimen of olden domestic architecture 
 in the metropolis, is described at p. 297. 
 
 Drury-lane has the Cock and Magpie, a low public-house of the seventeenth century, 
 with a panelled house next door, and a range of tenements in Drury-court of the 
 same date. These were then the only houses in the eastern part of Drury-lane, 
 except the mansion of the Drurys. Hither the youths and maidens who on May-day 
 danced round the May-pole in the Strand, were accustomed to resort for cakes and 
 ale : Pope has named it the scene of " the high heroic games devised by dulness to 
 gladden her sons." The old public-house is now otherwise occupied. 
 
 " Dyotfs Souse," Dyott-street, now George-street, St. Giles's, was the mansion of 
 Richard Dyott, Esq., a vestryman of St. Giles's parish temp. Charles II., and was in- 
 habited till our time by his descendant, Philip Dyott, Esq. 
 
 Elizabethan Houses. Among the earliest examples of the Elizabethan period was a 
 house in Grub-street, engraved in Smith's Antiquities, in which the mouldings, quatre- 
 foil, and other Gothic ornaments, were combined with the Italianized panels and 
 brackets of a later date. Malcolm in his Anecdotes, has engraved two Elizabethan 
 houses in Goswell-road, built about 1550, and standing in 1807; with bay-windows, 
 over-hanging upper story, and gable : next door, for contrast, is a house built about 
 1800, three floors of the former being scarcely equal to two of the latter.
 
 HOUSES OF OLD LONDON. 447 
 
 " The roofs (ceilings) of your houses are so low, that I presume your ancestors were very mannerly, 
 and stood bare to their wives, for I cannot discern how they could wear their high-crowned hats." Sir 
 William Havenant. 
 
 Fowler's House, Islington, fronts Cross-street : a ceiling bears the date 1595 : at the 
 extremity of the garden is a lodge, probably built as a summer-house by Sir Thomas 
 Fowler the younger, whose arms told the date 1655 are in the wall. Sir Thomas 
 Fowler the elder, who died 1624, was a juryman on Sir Walter Raleigh's trial. 
 
 Fulwood's Rents, Holborn, has a house temp. James I. (See p. 363.) 
 
 Gray's-Inn-lane, east side, north end, has three Elizabethan houses, originally one, 
 and probably a hostelry on the road to Theobalds : its three stories project over each 
 other upward, the top one being of weather-board plastered inside, and the roof 
 having four pointed gables : at the ends of the first and second stories are carved 
 brackets, one dated 1559. 
 
 Grub-street. In Svveedon's passage, Grub-street, was an ancient timber-built house, 
 traditionally the residence of Sir Richard Whittington, temp. Henry IV. ; and of Sir 
 Thomas Gresham, temp. Elizabeth. The massive timbers were oak and chestnut, the 
 ground-floor chimneys being of stone : it had a boldly projecting staircase, which, with 
 the house, was taken down in 1805, and three small houses were built upon its site, 
 one inscribed " Gresham House, once the residence of Sir Richard Whittington, Lord 
 Mayor 1406, rebuilt 1805." (See Smith's Ancient Topography.") 
 
 Holborn. In the volume of MS. drawings by John Thorpe, preserved in Sir John 
 Soane's Museum, is a sketch of a wooden house described as standing in Thorpe's time 
 at the " water end of Holborn." 
 
 " From the garden you ascend by five steps the enclosed terrace in front of the building; this has, 
 as Thorpe expresses it, a ' terrace overhead :' a small porch leads into the great hall. The kitchen is 
 on the right ; the larder is the small square room leading out of it. The small room in frout on the 
 same side as the kitchen, is the buttery, with cellar under, the small steps conducting down to it. 
 Above the hall is ' the great chamber,' the staircase leading to which opens into a gallery communicat- 
 ing to the rooms of the rest of the building. The square compartments at the back of the house, 
 represented in plan as staircase and larder, are carried up above the roof as turrets; a small prospect 
 tower is placed in front of the building." C. J. Richardson, F.S.A. 
 
 Holland House, Kensington, is described at pp. 431-433. 
 
 Hoxton. A few years since there stood in Hoxton Old Town the reputed " oldest 
 house in the metropolis," in taking down which was found a brick dated above 150 years 
 back ; but most of the bricks were of a much earlier period, being deep-red and highly 
 glazed : the door was beautifully carved with the oak and vine, &c. The Parliamen- 
 tary Survey, No. 78, as reported in Sir H. Ellis's History of Shoreditch, of which 
 Hoxton is one of the divisions, states that about this spot, during the Interregnum, a 
 house was in the possession of Charles Stuart, some time King of England, in 1653, 
 which was valued at 41. per annum. 
 
 Kennington Manor-house, a portion of the royal lodging built of brick upon part of 
 the site of the old palace near Kennington-cross, exists to this day. Its last royal 
 tenant was Charles I., when Prince of Wales, Kennington having been an occasional 
 residence of the Kings of England prior to the Conquest. The manor was annexed to 
 the Duchy of Cornwall, temp. Edward III., and was tenanted by the Black Prince. 
 John of Gaunt took refuge here in 1377 from the exasperated Londoners. Henry VII. 
 and Katherine of Arragon resided here ; and James I. settled the manor on Henry 
 Prince of Wales, his eldest son ; and upon his decease, 1612, on Prince Charles, after- 
 wards Charles I. The stables of the earlier palace, built of flint and stone, and known 
 as the Long Barn, remained till 1795 ; and fragments of flint, chalk, and rubble-stone 
 walls of the ancient palaces are traceable in houses in Park-place. 
 
 Kensington House, nearly opposite the palace-gates, was the residence of the Duchess 
 of Portsmouth, the French mistress of Charles II. Here Elphinstone, the friend of 
 Jortin, Franklin, and Johnson, kept a school from 1776 till 1788 : he is unsparingly 
 ridiculed in Smollett's Roderick Random. The mansion was next a Roman Catholic 
 boarding-house, where Mrs. Inchbald, the player and novelist, died in 1821. Colby 
 House, facing the Palace-road gates, was built about 1720, for Sir Thomas Colby : ifc 
 has a painted grand staircase with Herculaneuni ceiling, and a small chapel. Kensing- 
 ton National Schools, & stately pile of brickwork, west of the church, were built by Sir 
 John Vanbrugh, who " is singularly fortunate in this design, his lines presenting a re-
 
 448 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 strained degree of civil architecture, in the middle class of uprights" (John Carter). 
 Here are costumed figures of a charity boy and girl of the last century. 
 
 Hale Souse, Earl's-court, traditionally the residence of Oliver Cromwell, long re- 
 mained dilapidated and desolate ; but retained a few seventeenth-century decorations. 
 Near the West London Cemetery is Coleherne House, temp. Charles I., the property of 
 Sir William Lister ; next of Gen. Lambert, the first President of Cromwell's Council ; 
 and in 1820, of the widow of Major-Gen. Sir W. Ponsonby, who fell at Waterloo. 
 
 Lindsey Souse, Chelsea, west of the old church, was built by Bertie, Earl of Lindsey, 
 upon the site of the mansion of Sir Theodore Mayerne, physician to James I. and 
 Charles I. In 1751 Lindsey House was purchased by the United Brethren, or Moravians, 
 whose Bishop, Count Zinzendorf, died here in 1760 : in the rear of the house is a 
 burial-ground for the Brethren, with a small chapel; but their only place of worship 
 in London is the chapel in Fetter-lane (see p. 220). Lindsey House is now five 
 residences : the central one was tenanted by Sir I. K. Brunei and Son, and Bramah, 
 the engineers ; and next inhabited by John Martin, the epic painter, who in a summer- 
 house in the garden executed a fine fresco. 
 
 Lindsey Souse, on the centre of the west side of Lincoln's-inn-fields,. was built by 
 Inigo Jones for the above Bertie, Earl of Lindsey, and was for some time the residence 
 of the proud Duke of Somerset : it has a handsome stone faade, and had formerly 
 vases upon the open balustrade. At the south-west angle of Liucoln's-inn-fields is 
 Portsmouth Souse, built in Inigo Jones's rich style for the Earl of Portsmouth, but 
 now let in chambers. It gives name to Portsmouth- street, where is the Black-Jack 
 public-house, frequented by Joe Miller, and long known as " the Jump," from Jack 
 Sheppard's leaping from one of its first-floor windows, to escape his pursuers. 
 
 Little Moorfields, No. 23, was formerly the King's Arms public-house, with a plaster 
 front richly wrought with flowers, and a pair of large scrolls surmounted with the 
 Ionic volute. In London Wall was a house-front, temp. Charles I., enriched with 
 groups of foliage and figures, and engraved in Lester's Illustrations, 1818. 
 
 Long-lane, Smithfield, has a few houses remaining of Elizabethan date ; and Cloth 
 Fair has relics of this and a later period. 
 
 Marylebone Manor-house, attached to the Koyal Park, was built temp. Henry VIII., 
 and was a palace of Mary and Elizabeth. Here, about 1703, was established a school 
 of great repute ; the interior had a beautiful saloon and gallery, in which private con- 
 certs were given. The house, which stood at the top of High-street, nearly opposite 
 the old church, was taken down in 1791. South of the Manor-house site was Oxford 
 Souse, built especially for the Library and MSS. (Harleian) of the Earl of Oxford, now 
 in the British Museum. 
 
 Milborn's Almshouses, Crutched Friars, were built of brick and timber, in 1535, by 
 Sir John Milborn, lord mayor in 1521, for thirteen aged poor men and their wives, of 
 the Drapers' Company. Over the Tudor gateway was sculptured in stone the Assump- 
 tion, the Virgin supported by six angels. The Almshouses were taken down in 1862. 
 
 Newcastle Souse, at the north-west angle of Lincoln's-inn-fields, has beneath its 
 south wing an arcade over the southern footway of Great Queen-street. It was 
 originally Powis House, built for the Marquis of Powis, about 1686, by Captain Wil- 
 liam Winde, a scholar of Webbe, a pupil of Inigo Jones. It was bought by Holies, 
 Duke of Newcastle, and inherited by his nephew, who led the Pelham administration 
 under George II. 
 
 " Old City of London WorTchouse" Bishopsgate-street Without, the first workhouse 
 built in London, dates from 1680 : in the court-room is a portrait of Sir Robert Clay- 
 ton, the first governor. The house was originally partitioned into the steward's side, 
 for poor children ; and the keeper's side, for " rogues and vagabonds." 
 
 Post-office, Lombard-street, formerly the General Post-oflice, was originally built by 
 " the great banquer," Sir Robert Viner, on the site of a noted tavern destroyed in the 
 Great Fire. Here Sir Robert kept his mayoralty in 1675. Strype describes it as a 
 very large and curious dwelling, with a handsome paved court, and behind it " a yard 
 for stabling and coaches." 
 
 Queen-street, Lincoln' s-inn-fields, has on the south side some early brick houses, 
 built by Inigo Jones and his pupil Webbe ; those on the south being charged with the
 
 HOUSES OF OLD LONDON. 449 
 
 fleur-de-lis, in compliment to Queen Henrietta-Maria, daughter of Henry IV. of France, 
 after whom the street was named : it was said to have been designed for a square, and 
 built at the charge of the Jesuits on the site of the common path which anciently 
 separated Aldewych Close from the northern division of Aldewych, extending to 
 Holborn. The street was originally entered from the west by " the Devil's Gap," a 
 narrow passage ; altered 1765. 
 
 " In the last century Queen-street was the residence of many people of rank. Among others was 
 Comvay House, the residence of the noble family of that name ; Paulet House, belonging to the Marquis 
 of Winchester; and the house in which Lord Herbert of Cherbury finished his romantic career. The 
 fronts of certain houses, possibly of those of others of the nobility, are distinguished by brick pilasters 
 and rich capitals." Pennant. 
 
 Howel writes to Lord Herbert, 13th July, 1646 : " God send you joy of your new habitation, for I 
 understand your Lordship is removed from the JKn^'a-street to the Queen's." Familiar Letters. 
 
 Here lived Sir Thomas Fairfax, the Parliamentary general, when he took possession of 
 Holland House, Kensington. Also, Sir Godfrey Kneller; Hudson, Sir Joshua Rey- 
 nolds's master ; and Sir Robert Strange, the engraver. Lord Herbert's house is near 
 the east corner of Great Wild-street. Another of Howel's Familiar Letters is addressed 
 " To the R. H. the Earl Rivers, at his house in Queen-street." 
 
 " May 26th, 1671. The Earl of Bristol's House, in Queen-street, Lincoln's-inn-fields, was taken for 
 the Commissioners of Trade and Plantations, and furnished with rich hangings of the King's. It con- 
 sisted of seven rooms on a floor, with a long gallery, gardens, &c." Evelyn's Diary. 
 
 Schomberg Mouse, Pall Mall, Nos. 81 and 82, south side, was built about 1650, when 
 Pall Mall was planted with 140 elm-trees, " standing in a very regular and decent 
 manner on both sides of the walk ;" and the above house is described as " a fair mansion 
 enclosed with a garden." In 1660, at the Restoration, it was occupied by several Court . t 
 favourites ; and subsequently by Edward Griffin, Treasurer of the Chamber, and k J 
 ancestor of the present Lord Braybrooke. In 1670 Schomberg House and the ad- 
 joining mansions had gardens which extended to St. James's Park, and had earthen o 1& 
 mounds or terraces, from which was a view over the green walks to the Palace. 
 
 Next door, on the site of the present No. 79 (tenanted by the Society for the Propagation of the ' a yt*^ 
 Gospel in Foreign Parts), lived Nell Gwyn, after her removal from a house at the east end of the north ^ n 
 side of Pall Mall. Evelyn records a walk made March 2, 1671, in which he attended Charles II. through rC" 
 St. James's Park, where he both saw and heard "a familiar discourse between the King and Mrs. 
 Nellie, as they called an impudent comedian, she looking out of her garden on a terrace at the top of the 
 wall, and the King standing on the green walk under it." Part of the terrace or mound on which 
 Nelly stood may still be seen under the park wall of Marlborough House; and among Mr. Robert Cole's 
 Nell Gwyn papers, now dispersed (bills sent to Nelly for payment), there is a charge for this very 
 mound. (Cunningham's Story of Nell Gwyn, p. 119.) This scene has been admirably painted by 
 E. M. AYard, E.A. 
 
 Here lived the Duke of Schomberg, who was killed at the Battle of the Boyne, 1690, 
 and after whom the house is named. It was beautified for Frederick, third and last 
 Duke of Schomberg, for whom Peter Berchett painted the grand staircase with land- 
 scapes in lunettes. In 1699, the house had nigh been demolished by a mob of disbanded 
 soldiers ; and in the Gordon riots of 1780, attempts were made to sack and burn it. 
 William, Duke of Cumberland, the hero of Culloden, took the house in 1760. John 
 Astley, the painter and " the Beau," who lived here many years, partitioned the man- 
 sion into three, and placed the bas-relief of Painting above the middle doorway. Astley 
 also built on the roof a large painting-room, his " country-house," looking over the Park, 
 to which and some other apartments he had a private staircase. After Astley's death, 
 Cosway the portrait-painter tenanted the centre. Gainsborough occupied the west 
 wing from 1777 to 1788, when he died in a second-floor room : he sent for Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds, and was reconciled to him ; and then exclaiming, " We are all going to 
 heaven, and Vandyke is of the company," he immediately expired. Part of the house 
 was subsequently occupied by Robert Bowyer for his " Historic Gallery ;" and by 
 Dr. Graham, the empiric, for his " Celestial Bed" and other impostures, advertised by 
 two gigantic porters stationed at the entrance, in gold-laced cocked hats and liveries. 
 The house was a good specimen of the red-brick seventeenth- century mansion. It was 
 partly occupied by Payne and Foss, with their valuable stock of old books, until 1850. 
 The eastern wing of the old mansion has been taken down, and rebuilt in Italian style, 
 but incongruously, for the War Department. 
 
 Shafteslury House, originally Thanet House, on the east side of Aldersgate-street, 
 was built by Inigo Jones for the Tuftons, Earls of Thanet ; whence it passed into the
 
 450 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 family of Anthony Ashley Cooper, Earl of Shafteshury. In 1708 it returned to the 
 Thanet family ; in 1720, became an inn; in 1734, a tavern; 1750, a Lying-in-Hos- 
 pital : and in 1849, a Dispensary. The facade is of red brick, decorated with eight 
 pilasters, but painted stone colour. Nearly opposite was London Souse, originally 
 Peter House, of handsome brick : it was the town-mansion of the Bishop of London 
 after the Great Fire of 1666. 
 
 Southward retained in High-street some of its olden house-fronts, almost to the re- 
 building of London Bridge. Tn 1830 were removed two houses with enriched pilaster 
 decoration and armorial ensigns of the sixteenth century ; and the writer witnessed 
 about 1809, the demolition of a long range of wood and plaster and gable-fronted 
 houses on the west side of High-street. 
 
 " The Spanish Ambassador's Souse," eastward of Houndsditch, in Gravel-lane, was 
 taken down in 1844. This was one of the " garden-houses," which Stow describes as 
 built amidst " fair hedgerows of elm-trees, with bridges and easie stiles to pass over 
 into the pleasant fields." More than a century later Strype adds : " There was a house 
 on the west side, a good way in the lane, which, when I was a boy, was commonly 
 called The Spanish Ambassador's Souse, who, in'_King James's reign, dwelt here; and 
 he, I think, was the famous Count Gondomar." The house was built temp. James I., 
 in a courtyard, with a fine gateway, upon a flight of steps, approached by " Seven-Step 
 Alley :" it had three stories, with pilasters between the windows, the lower rooms were 
 oak-panelled, and had richly-carved fireplaces and stucco ceilings ; and on the first floor 
 was a large chamber, with an elaborately -traceried ceiling in Italian taste, charged with 
 Latin mottoes, and the arms of the founder, Kobert Shaw, and those of the Vintners' 
 Company, of which he was master : here, too, was a superb fireplace, of coloured 
 marbles and carved oak (see Archer's Vestiges, part v.). 
 
 Staple Inn, Solborn, has three overhanging stories, the upper one with four pointed 
 gables; the ground-floor has modern shop-fronts, but the central arched entrance to 
 the Inn has the original term pilasters of the Jacobean style. 
 
 Star Chamber and Exchequer -buildings, the, stood on the eastern side of New 
 Palace-yard ; and adjoining northward was an arched gateway (Henry III.), communi- 
 cating by stairs with the Thames. These buildings, bay-windowed and gabled, were 
 taken down between 1807 and 1836; the last remaining were the offices for trials of 
 the Pix, and printing Exchequer bills. In an apartment here the Court of Star 
 Chamber sat from temp. Elizabeth until its abolition, 1641 : over the doorway was the 
 date 1602, E. R. and an open rose on a star. It had a richly-carved Tudor-Gothic 
 oak ceiling, with moulded compartments, roses, pomegranates, portcullises, and fleurs- 
 de-lis ; and it had been guilt and coloured, though it had not a trace of gilt stars. The 
 mantelpiece was decorated with fluted columns, and the chimney-opening was a Tudor 
 arch. Drawings of the whole were made in 1836. Behind the Elizabethan panelling 
 were found three Tudor-arched doorways, and under the staircase a Gothic wood-hole 
 entrance, its spandrels ornamented with roses ; proving this to have been the original 
 Camera Stellata, newly fitted temp. Elizabeth. The panelling of the Chamber has been 
 removed to a room at Leasowe Castle, Shropshire, the seat of the Hon. Sir Edward 
 Cust ; here, too, is " the Dosel, a screen of ornamental woodwork, at the back of the 
 chair of state." Sir Bernard Burke's Visitation of Seats and Arms, vol. ii. p. 126, 1853. 
 
 St. Mary Axe. A four-storied Tudor house, opposite the church of St. Andrew's 
 Undershaft, was taken down in 1864 : it had three overhanging floors, the front was 
 entirely of wood and plaster, not unpicturesque ; and it had some finely-panelled oak 
 apartments. Nearly opposite this house was erected on May morning "the great 
 Shaft of Cornhill," as the street was then called. 
 
 The Strand retains a few old house-fronts : as west of the Adelphi Theatre ; and 
 immediately east of Strand-lane are three houses of the reign of Charles I., retaining a 
 few of their classic mouldings, cornices, and window pediments. 
 
 Tradescant's Souse, South Lambeth-road, a large brick edifice, nearly opposite 
 Spring-lane, was the residence of the Tradescants, father and son; and of Elias 
 Aslnnole, who " added a noble room to it, and adorned the chimney with his arms, 
 impaling those of Sir William Dugdale, whose daughter was his third wife." The 
 house, with ibs museum, was called " Tradescant's Ark." (See GABDENS, p. 368.)
 
 INNS OF OLD LONDON. 451 
 
 Waricick Souse, Cloth Fair, Smithfield, built temp. Elizabeth, was bought with the 
 Priory of St. Bartholomew, and the right to hold the Fair, by Sir Robert Rich, in 
 1544, and devolved to his descendants, the Earls of Warwick and Holland; whence 
 that " uproarious rabblement," called Lady Holland's Mob, which assembled on the 
 eve of St. Bartholomew in mock proclamation of the Fair. 
 
 Weather-boarded house-fronts, in part plastered, are of old date : there was, until 
 1853, a row of these wood tenements on the east side of Milford-lane, Strand ; and up 
 a passage in Bell-yard, Fleet-street, a little north-west of a house temp. Charles I., is 
 a square court entirely of weather-board and plaster, bespeaking the inflammable 
 nature of London before the Great Fire. 
 
 Winchester-street, Old Broad-street, the most curious specimen of ancient domestic 
 architecture to be found in the City, disappeared in 1865. It occupied the site of the 
 gardens of the Priory of St. Augustine. Part of the house which the Marquis of Win- 
 chester built here still remains. Pinners' Hall, an old building at the upper end of 
 Princes'-court, in Winchester-street, was also part of the Augustine Priory ; and was 
 converted into a glasshouse before it became the property of the Pinmakers' Company, 
 and, with its gabled house-fronts and ancient air, was rendered still more curious in 
 contrast with the magnificent edifices and the great railway works around it. Some 
 of the old shops, without fronts, in this street were very remarkable. During the 
 removal were dug up some remains which carry us far beyond the Priory occupancy- 
 as a piece of Samian ware and part of a well-wrought bone stylus ; and an iron knife, 
 or perhaps a Roman razor, almost exactly like that engraved in Mr. Roach Smith's 
 Catalogue, p. 72. 
 
 Several examples of Old London Houses are engraved and described in the Builder, 
 Nos. 486, 489, 494, and 515. 
 
 INNS OF OLD LONDON. 
 
 OF Olden Inns, up gateways, and consisting of rooms for refection below, and long 
 projecting balustraded galleries above, leading to the chambers time and change 
 have spared a few interesting specimens. 
 
 Angel, Islington (actually in St. James's, Clerkenwell), once a busy resort of travel- 
 lers on the Great North Road, is reputed to have been established upwards of 200 
 years : it was rebuilt in 1819. The old inn-yard was nearly quadrangular, with double 
 galleries, supported by plain columns, and pilasters carved with caryatid and other 
 figures. (See Pugin's Views in Islington and Pentonville, 1819.) A coloured drawing 
 of this old inn-yard is preserved here. The Peacock, another inn hard by, was of equal 
 if not greater antiquity. 
 
 Angel, St. Clement's, Strand, retained to the last its gables and portions of covered gal- 
 leries, with an old lattice-fronted attic passage. Data of three centuries since also attest its 
 antiquity : Bishop Hooper, the venerated martyr of the Reformation, upon his second 
 committal to the Fleet Prison in 1553, refusing to recant his opinions, was condemned 
 to be burnt, in January, 1555. It was expected that he would have accompanied 
 Rogers, a prebendary of St. Paul's, to the stake ; but Hooper was led back to his cell, 
 to be carried down to Gloucester, to suffer among his own people. Next morning 
 he was roused at four o'clock, and being committed to the care of six of Queen Mary's 
 Guard, they took him, before it was light, to the Angel Inn, St. Clement's, then 
 standing in the fields; and thence he was taken to Gloucester, and there burnt with 
 dreadful torments on the 9th of February. 
 
 In the Public Advertiser, March 28, 1769, is the following advertisement: 
 
 " To be sold, a Black Girl, the property of J. B , eleven years of age, who is extremely handy, 
 
 works at her needle tolerably, and speaks English perfectly well; is of an excellent temper and willing 
 disposition. Inquire of Mr. Owen, at the Angel lun, behind St. Clement's Church, in the Strand." 
 The Angel Inn has been taken down ; and upon its site is built the cul-de-sac of 
 Chambers called " Danes' Inn." 
 
 Ape, Philip-lane, London Wall : here were formerly two galleried inns, the Ape and 
 the Cock, of great antiquity : the sign of the former is preserved on the house No. 14. 
 
 Baptist's Head public-house, east side of St. John's-lane, Clerkenwell, just without 
 the Priory-gate, is a fragment of an Elizabethan mansion, and until its renovation had 
 an overhanging front grotesquely carved, and lit by large bay windows, with painted 
 
 & G 2
 
 452 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 glass : some of the interior scroll-panelling remains. This house was the residence of 
 Sir Thomas Forster, Knt., one of the judges of the Court of Common Pleas; he died 
 in 1612, and his arms, sculptured upon the chimney-piece of the present tap-room, 
 have been collated in Cromwell's Clerkenwell. The sign may have been chosen in 
 compliment to Sir Baptist Hicks ; and the public-house is said to have been frequented 
 by Samuel Johnson and Oliver Goldsmith in connexion with their transactions at 
 Cave's printing-office over St. John's Gate. 
 
 Sell, Great Carter-lane, Doctors' Commons : hence, Oct. 25, 1598, Richard Quiney 
 addressed to his " loveing good ffrend and countryman, Mr. Wm. Schackespere " (then 
 living in Southwark, near the Bear-garden), for a loan of thirty pounds; which letter 
 we have seen in the possession of Mr. R. Bell Wheler, at Stratford upon-Avon : it is 
 believed to be the only existing letter addressed to Shakspeare. The Sell inn has 
 disappeared, but has given name to Bell-yard. 
 
 Sell, Warwick-lane, Newgate-street : here Archbishop Leighton, the steady advocate 
 of peace and forbearance, died 1684 ; little of the old inn remains. 
 
 " He often used to say, that if he were to choose a place to die in, it should be an inn ; it lookin g like a 
 pilgrim's going home, to whom this world was all an inn, and who was weary of the noise and confusion 
 in it And he obtained what he desired." Burnet's Own Times. 
 
 Sell Savage, or Selle Sauvage, Ludgate-hill, is a specimen of the players' inn-yard 
 before our regular theatres were built. The landlord's token, issued between 1648 
 and 1672, bears an Indian woman holding a bow and arrow. The sign is thus traced: 
 
 " As for the Bell Savage, which is the sign of a savage man standing by a bell, I was formerly very 
 much puzzled upon the conceit of it, till I accidentally fell into the reading of an old romance translated 
 out of the French, which gives an account of a very beautiful woman who was found in a wilderness, 
 and is called in the French Ma Belle Sauvage,' and is everywhere translated by our countrymen the Bell 
 Savage." Spectator, No. 28. 
 
 The sign, however, was originally a bell hung within a hoop, as proved by a grant 
 temp. Henry VI., wherein John French gives to Joan French, widow, his mother, 
 " all that tenement or inn called Savage's Inn, otherwise called the Sell on the Hoop." 
 In the London Gazette, 1676, it is termed "an antient inn." Stow affirms it to have 
 been given to the Cutlers' Company by one Isabella Savage : but their records state by 
 Mrs. Craythorne. (See CUTLEBS' HAIL, p. 414.) Here Sir Thomas Wyat's rebellion 
 was stopped. 
 
 "And he (Wyet) himself came in at Te(mple Bar, and) soodown alle Flet-strete, and soo un-to the 
 Belle Savage. And then was his trayne (attacked at) the commandment of the erle of Pembroke, and 
 sartayne of hys men slayne. And whaa (he saw) that Ludgatte was shutt agayne hym, he departed 
 saynge, ' I have kepte towche,' and soo went (back) agayne; and by the Tempulle barre he was tan e, 
 and soo brought by waiter unto the (Tower) of London." Chronicle of the Grey Friars of London. 
 
 Fuller, in his Church History, states that after Wyat's adherents had forsaken him, he flung himself 
 on a bench opposite the Bell Savage, and began to repent the rashness of his enterprise, and lament his 
 folly. He was summoned by an herald to submit, which he agreed to do, but would yield only to a gen- 
 tleman ; and afterwards surrendered to Sir Maurice Berkeley. 
 
 In Bell Savage-yard lived Grinling Gibbons, " where he carved a pot of flowers 
 which shook surprisingly with the motion of the coaches that passed by." Walpole. 
 
 This was one of the inns at which Bankes exhibited his wonderful horse, Marocco, whose accomplish- 
 ment was dancing. One of his exploits was going up to the top of St. Paul's Church. The horse is 
 first mentioned about 1590. He was exhibited not only in England but abroad, where it became sus- 
 pected that the horse was a demon, and his exhibitor was a sorcerer; and both were burnt at Rome by 
 the Inquisition. There is an extremely rare tract, Maroccus Extaticus : or, BanTcet't Say Horse in a 
 Trance, 1595, a fine copy of which at Mr. Daniel's Canonbury sale, in 1864, fetched 8H. 
 
 The old inn has been taken down, and upon its site and that of the inn-yard have 
 been erected the extensive printing works of Cassell, Fetter, and Galpin. An old 
 house, bearing the crest of the Cutlers' Company, cut in stone, remains. 
 
 Slossoms, Lawrence-lane, Cbeapside, " corruptly Bosoms Inn, hath to sign ' St. 
 Laurence the Deacon,' in a border of blossoms or flowers," which, says the legend, 
 sprung up " on the spot of his cruel martyrdom." This was one of the inns hired for 
 the retinue of Charles V. on his visit to London in 1522, when " xx. beddes and a 
 stable for ix. horses " were ordered here. 
 
 Solt-in-Tun, Fleet-street, No. 64, in a grant to the White Friars in 1443, is termed 
 " Hospitium vocafcum Le Boltenton." In Whitefriars-street, No. 10 is the Slack Lion, 
 a small inn-yard with exterior wooden balustraded gallery, &c. Among the lands and 
 tenements in Sfc. Dunstan's occur the Sore's Hede, rented at 4:1. ; le Solte and Tonne, 
 41. ; and le Slake Swanne, <il. ; all in Fleet-street.
 
 INNS OF OLD LONDON. 
 
 'Bull, Bishopsgate, in its galleried yard, accommodated audiences for our early actors, 
 before the building of licensed theatres. Richard Tarlton frequently played here. 
 
 IBM and Mouth, St. Martin's-le-Grand, and the 'Bull and Gate, Holborn, had 
 probably the same origin, the Bullogne Gate, one of the Gates of Bullogne, designed, 
 perhaps, as a compliment to Henry VIII., who took that place in 1544. This G. A. 
 Steevens learned from the title-page of an old play. Tom Jones, it will be recollected, 
 alighted at the Bull and Gate, Holborn, when he first came to London. Strype tells 
 us that the Bull and Mouth was the great resort of those who bring bone-lace 
 for sale ; and the house was much frequented by the Quakers before the Great Fire. 
 This continued to be a great coach-office to all parts of England and Scotland, until the 
 railways rose up. About this time the house was rebuilt in handsome style by Mr. 
 Sherman : in the centre between the second-floor windows is a sculptured group of 
 great absurdity : a Bull, and beneath it, a gigantic open mouth ;* above is a bust of 
 Edward VI., the founder of Christ's Hospital, to which foundation the site belongs. 
 
 Clerkenwell. In St. John-street is the Cross Keys, where the carrier of Daiutree 
 lodged in 1637 ; Hatton mentions the Three Cups, near Hicks's Hall. . Here also are 
 the Golden Lion and the Windmill ; and in Woodbridge-street was the Red Bull 
 inn, the yard once the pit of the Red Bull Theatre. (See CLERKENWELL, p. 236.) 
 
 Coach and Horses, at the entrance to Bartholomew Close, is a portion of the ancient 
 priory, probably the hospitium, at the end of the north cloister : the first floor has an 
 arched roof and 16th-century cornice ; the tap-room has an Early-English window: and 
 the beer-cellar, a crypt, has a 12th-century clustered column. Of St. Bartholomew's, 
 also, exist the prior's house, and the hall, with an ancient timbered roof, now used as a 
 tobacco-manufactory. Close by is the monastery kitchen, from which a subterranean 
 passage, in our time, communicated with the church : it has two panelled rooms, one with 
 a vaulted roof and carved mantel-piece. (See Archer's Vestiges of Old London, part v.) 
 
 Cock, in Tothill-street, was probably the most ancient domestic edifice in West- 
 minster : it was built entirely of timber, and at the back was a long inn-yard, with 
 heavy timber sheds. The upper part of the house consisted of one story, in which 
 were several rooms on different levels, one of which remained in its original state, a 
 curious specimen of an early timbered room, being entirely of chestnut-wood. The 
 exterior was very picturesque, although plastered and painted. The. house was 
 entered by a descent of three steps : in the parlour was a massive oak carving of the 
 Adoration of the Magi, of Flemish work, well executed and painted to the life. 
 Another piece of carved work, more in the High German manner, an alto-relievo of 
 Abraham offering up Isaac, was preserved in an adjoining room. The Cock is said to 
 have been frequented by the builders of Henry VIl.'s Chapel; and there is a further 
 tradition that here was the pay-table of the workmen at the building of the Abbey, temp. 
 Henry III. In 1845, Mr. Archer found in the kitchen the old sign of the Royal 
 Arms, which, with the Flemish carving and ancient bedchamber, are engraved in the 
 Vestiges of Old London, part vi. From this house started the first Oxford coach ; and 
 a portrait of its original driver was shown here. The old house has some time disappeared. 
 
 Cross Keys, Gracechurch-street, was one of the old galleried inns at which Bankes 
 exhibited the extraordinary feats of his horse Marocco; the better class of spectators 
 being in the galleries. Richard Tarlton, the clown, kept a tavern here. He was 
 chosen scavenger, " and often the ward complained of his slacknesse in keeping the 
 streets cleane." The first stage-coach travelling between Clapham and Gracechurch- 
 street, once daily, was established in the year 1690, by John Day and John Bundy. 
 The Cross Keys, Wood-street, Cheapside, was taken down in 1865 : this sign, and that 
 in Gracechurch-street, taken down in 1866, were derived from adjoining churches 
 being dedicated to St. Peter, whose emblem is two keys crossed. 
 
 Elephant and Castle, Newington Butts, was a noted stage-coach house until the 
 railway times ; and was originally a low- built roadside inn, with outer gallery, a draw- 
 ing of which hangs in the present tavern. Adjoining was a large sectarian chapel, 
 inscribed in gigantic capitals "THE HOUSE OF GOD!" held by the dupes of Joanna 
 Southcott, whose dreams and visions were painted upon the walls. There is an odd 
 
 * This is referred by some to the story of Milo, who, after killing a bullock with a blow of his fist, 
 ate it up in a meal !
 
 454 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 notion that this Elephant and Castle sign was founded upon the finding of elephant 
 bones near the inn site ; but an elephant and castle is the crest of the Cutlers' Company. 
 Four Swans, Bishopsgate-street Without, is perhaps the most perfect old London 
 inn, its galleries being entire. Hobson, the noted Cambridge carrier, put up here. 
 
 " This memorable man stands drawn in fresco at an inn (which he used) in Bishopsgate-street, with 
 an hundred-pound bag under his arm, with this inscription upon the said bag : 
 
 ' The fruitful mother of a hundred more.' " Spectator, No. 609. 
 
 George and Slue Soar, Holborn, was associated with a great event in our history : 
 here is said to have been intercepted Charles I.'s letter, by which Ireton discovered 
 it to be the King's intention to destroy him and Cromwell, which discovery brought 
 about Charles's execution ; but the story is disbelieved. Nearly opposite the George 
 and Slue Soar was the Red Lion, the largest inn in Holborn ; and where the bodies 
 of Cromwell, Ireton, and Bradshawe were carried from Westminster Abbey, and next 
 day dragged on sledges to Tyburn a retributive coincidence worthy of note. In old 
 St. Giles's Church was " a red lyon painted in glasse, given by the inneholder of the 
 Eed Lyon." (Aubrey.) 
 
 George, Snowhill, is a relic of the time when this hill was the only highway from 
 Holborn-bridge eastward ; the house appears to have been an extensive inn for carriers 
 t a very early date, and 
 
 " St. George that swiug'd the dragon, 
 And sits on his horseback at mine hoste's door," 
 
 though much dilapidated, is a good specimen of a carved sign-stone. 
 
 Gerard's Sail, Basing-lane and Bread-street, Cheapside, replaced the ancient Hall of 
 the Gisors, the fine Norman crypt of which remained for a wine-cellar ; but, with the 
 superstructure, was removed in 1852, in forming New Cannon-street. 
 
 Giles's, St., was formerly noted for its large inns. (See ST. GILES'S, pp. 376-377.) 
 Green Man, on the site of the commencement of the present Osnaburg-street, was 
 originally the Farthing Pye-house, kept by Price, the noted rolling-pin and salt- 
 box player ; here were sold bits of mutton, put into a crust, and shaped like a pie, 
 for a farthing ! 
 
 Half-way Souse, Kensington-road, opposite the site of the building for the Great 
 Exhibition of 1851, and near the Prince of Wales's Gate, Hyde Park, was removed in 
 1846 at an expense of 3050?., in addition to the purchase of the fee. 
 
 Solborn Sill. The Hose has disappeared within our recollection : from this inn 
 Taylor the Water-poet started in the Southampton coach for the Isle of Wight, 19th 
 October, 1647, while Charles I. was there : 
 
 " We took one coach, two coachmen, and four horses, 
 And merrily from London made our courses, 
 We wheel'd the top of the heavy hill call'd Holborn, 
 (Up which hath been full many a sinful soul borne,) 
 And so along we jolted past St. Giles's, 
 Which place from Brentford six or seven miles is." 
 
 Taylor's Travel* from London to the Isle of Wiaht, 1647. 
 
 The Old Sell, Holborn, bears the arms of Fowler, of Islington, viz., azure, on a 
 chevron, argent, between three herons, as many crosses formee, gules. These arms also 
 occur on a building supposed to have been the lodge of Fowler's house in Islington. 
 
 .King's Arms, Leadenhall-street, No. 122 : in the reign of William III., Sir John 
 Fenwick and others met here to plan the restoration of James II. 
 
 Oxford Arms, situate at the end of a narrow street out of the west side of Warwick- 
 lane, and southward of Warwick-square and the old College of Physicians, has a red 
 brick pedimented facade of the period of Charles II. surmounting a gateway leading into 
 the inn-yard, which has on three of its sides two rows of wooden galleries, with 
 exterior staircases leading to the chambers on each floor, the fourth side being occupied 
 by stabling built against part of old London-wall. This house, known as the Oxford 
 Arms before the Great Fire, must have been then consumed, but was rebuilt on the 
 plan of the former inn. The Oxford Arms was not, as supposed, part of the Earl of 
 Warwick's house ; as it belongs, and has belonged of old time, to the Dean and Chapter 
 of St. Paul's. The houses of the Canons Residentiary of St. Paul's adjoin the Oxford 
 Arms on the south, and part of London Wall is still remaining in the court-yard of 
 those houses. There is a door from the old inn leading into one of the back yards of
 
 II 
 
 INNS OF OLD LONDON. 455 
 
 the residentiary houses, which is said to have been found useful during the Riots of 
 1780, for facilitating the escape of Roman Catholics, who then frequented the Oxford 
 Arms, from the fury of the mob, by enabling them to pass into the residentiary 
 houses ; for which reason, as is said, by a clause always inserted in the leases of the 
 inn, that door is forbidden to be closed up. (Communication to the Builder.) The 
 London Gazette, 1762-3, No. 762, has this advertisement : 
 
 " These are to give notice that Edward Bartlet, Oxford Carrier, hath removed his inn in London 
 from the Swan at Holborn Bridge to the Oxford Arms in Warwick Lane, where he did Inn before the 
 1'ire. His coaches and waggons going forth on their usual days, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. 
 He hath also a Hearse with all things convenient to carry a corps to any part of England." 
 
 At the Oxford Arms, in Warwick-lane, lived John Roberts, the bookseller, from 
 whose shop issued the majority of the squibs and libels on Pope. 
 
 Paul Pindar's Head, corner of Half-moon-alley, No. 160, Bishopsgate- street 
 Without, was the mansion of Sir Paul Pindar, the wealthy merchant, contemporary 
 with Sir Thomas Gresham. The house was built towards the end of the 16th century, 
 with a wood-framed front and caryatid brackets, the principal windows bayed, and 
 their lower fronts enriched with panels of carved work. In the first-floor front room 
 is a fine original ceiling in stucco, in which are the arms of Sir Paul Pindar. In the 
 rear of these premises, within a garden, was formerly a lodge, of corresponding date, 
 decorated with four medallions of figures in Italian taste. 
 
 Piccadilly Inns. At the east end were formerly the Black Bear and White Bear 
 (originally the Fleece), nearly opposite each other. The Black Bear was taken down 
 in 1820. The White Bear occurs in St. Martin's parish-books in 1685 : here Chatelain 
 and Sullivan, the engravers, died ; and Benjamin West, the painter, lodged the first 
 night after his arrival from America. Strype mentions the White Horse Cellar in 
 1720 ; and the booking office of the New White Horse Cellar is to this day in " the 
 cellar." The Three Kings stables' gateway, No. 75, had two Corinthian pilasters, 
 stated by D' Israeli to have belonged to Clarendon House : "the stable-yard at the back 
 presents the features of an old galleried inn-yard, and it is noted as the place from 
 which General Palmer started the first Bath mail coach." (J. W. Archer : Vestiges, 
 part vi.) The Hercules' Pillars (a sign which meant that no habitation was to be 
 found beyond it) stood a few yards west of Hamilton-place, and is mentioned as one 
 extremity of London by Wycherley, in 1676. Here Squire Western " placed his 
 horses" when he arrived in London with the fair Sophia (see Tom Jones) ; here " the 
 horses of many of the quality stood ;" and it became the scene of fashionable dinner- 
 parties of the officers of the army, often headed by the Marquis of Granby. The Hercules' 
 Pillars, and another roadside inn, the Triumphant Car, were standing about 1797, and 
 were mostly frequented by soldiers. Two other Piccadilly inns, the White Horse and 
 Half-moon, have given names to streets. 
 
 Pied Bull, Church-row, Islington, traditionally the residence of Sir Walter Raleigh, 
 and in the Elizabethan style, was taken down in 1826-7. The late front was modern; 
 but the parlour (the original dining-room) had an elaborately-carved chimney-piece, 
 with figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity j and a stuccoed ceiling, with personifications 
 of the Five Senses. In a window were painted the arms of Sir John Miller, who lived 
 there in 1634 ; and a bunch of green leaves above the shield was popularly regarded 
 as the tobacco-plant introduced by Raleigh. 
 
 Queen's Head, Lower-street, Islington, was a still more perfect Elizabethan house 
 than the above. The walls were strong timber framework, filled in with lath and 
 plaster; the three stories projected, and the windows were supported by carved 
 brackets ; the entrance porch being ornamented by caryatides and Ionic scrolls. The 
 interior had panelled wainscot, and stuccoed ceilings of rich design. The house has 
 been rebuilt, and portions of the old woodwork are preserved. 
 
 Pindar of Wakefield, Gray's-inn-road, was a roadside inn in Aubrey's time, 1685, 
 who mentions the yellow-flowered Neapolitan bank-cresses, the London rocket, grow- 
 ing there, as well as on the ruins of London, after the Great Fire. ' 
 
 Rose of Normandy, on the east side of High-street, Marylebone, built in the 17th 
 century, was the oldest house in the parish, and had the original exterior, staircase, and 
 balusters. In the rear was a bowling-green, enclosed with walls set with fruit-trees 
 and quickset hedges, " indented like town- walla."
 
 456 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Saracen's Head, Snow-hill (actually in Skinner-street), and of old " without New- 
 gate," was in Stow's time " a fair and large inn for the receipt of travellers." 
 
 Saracen's Head, Friday-street, Cheapside, adjoined St. Matthew's Church, and 
 No. 5, said to have heen the dwelling-house of Sir Christopher Wren. The inn con- 
 sisted of three floors with open galleried fronts, besides the ground-floor : it was taken 
 down in 1844 j and upon its site, extending nearly to Old Change, large Manchester 
 warehouses were erected. There was also a Saracen's Head, No. 5, Aldgate : it was 
 once a common London sign, which Selden thus illustrates : 
 
 " When our countrymen came home from fighting with the Saracens, and were beaten by them, they 
 pictured them with huge, big, terrible faces (as you still see the sign of the Saracen's head is), when in 
 truth they were like other men. But this they did to save their own credit." Table Talk. 
 
 SOTJTHWAEK INNS. Stow enumerates here " many fair inns for receipt of travellers, 
 by these signs : the Spurr, Christopher, Bull, Queene's Head, Tabard, George, Hart, 
 King's Head," &c. Of these the most ancient is the Tabard (now Talbot), No. 75, 
 High-street, opposite the Town-hall site. The tabard is a jacket or sleeveless coat, 
 worn in times past by noblemen, with their arms embroidered on it, but now only by 
 heralds, as their coat of arms in service. " This was the hostelry where Chaucer and the 
 other pilgrims met together, and with Henry Bailly, their hoste, accorded about the 
 manner of their journey to Canterbury." (Speght, 1598.) 
 " Befell that in that season, on a day 
 
 At Southwark at the Tabard as I lay, 
 
 Beadie to wander on my Pilgrimage 
 
 To Canterburie with devout courage, 
 
 At night was come into that hostelrie 
 
 Well nine-and-twenty in a companie 
 
 Of sundrie folke, by adventure yfall 
 
 In fellowship, and pilgrimes were they all, 
 
 That toward Canterburie wouden ride : 
 
 The chambers and the stables weren wide, 
 
 And well we weren eased at the best," &c. Chaucer. 
 
 The Register of Hyde Abbey, and the Escheat Rolls of King Edward I., show the 
 acquisition by the Abbey of Hyde of the Tabard and the Abbot's House, in South- 
 wark, by purchase from William de Lategareshall, in 1304. Henry Bailly, Chaucer's 
 host of the Tabard, is identified as one of the representatives of the borough of South- 
 wark in Parliament, in the 50th of Edward III. and 2nd of Richard II. ; and in the 
 4th of Richard II. " Henry Bayliff, ostyler, and Christian his wife, were assessed to 
 the subsidy (in Southwark) at 2s." After the Dissolution of the monasteries, the 
 Tabard and the Abbot's House were sold by King Henry VIII. to John Master and 
 Thomas Master ; and the particulars for the grant in the Augmentation Office afford 
 descriptions of the hostelry called the Tabard, parcel of the possessions of the monas- 
 tery of Hyde, and the Abbot's Place, with the jstable and garden belonging thereto. 
 The Tabard is mentioned to have been late in the occupation of one Robert Patty, but 
 the Abbot's Place, with the garden and stable, were reserved to the late Bishop Com- 
 mendator, John Saltcote, alias Capon, who had been last abbot of Hyde, and who 
 surrendered it to King Henry VIII. ; and after being made Bishop of Bangor, in com- 
 mendam with the Abbey of Hyde, subsequent to the Surrender of the abbey lie was pre- 
 ferred to the see of Salisbury, in 1539, which he retained till his death in 1557. Upon 
 the brestsummer beam of the gateway facing the street was formerly inscribed : "This is 
 the inne where Sir Jeffry Chaucer and the nine-and-twenty pilgrims lay in their jour- 
 ney to Canterbury, anno 1383." This was painted out in 1831 : this was originally 
 inscribed upon a beam across the road, whence swung the sign, removed in 1763, when 
 the inscription was transferred to the gateway. The sign was changed about 1676, 
 when, says Aubrey, " the ignorant landlord or tenant* instead of the ancient sign of the 
 Tabard, put up the Talbot, or dog !" The buildings of Chaucer's time have disap- 
 peared, but were standing in 1602 : the oldest remaining is of the age of Elizabeth ; 
 and the most interesting portion is a stone-coloured wooden gallery, in front of which is 
 a picture of the Canterbury Pilgrimage, said to have been painted by Blake : immediately 
 behind is the Pilgrims' Room of tradition, but only a portion of the ancient hall. 
 The gallery formerly extended throughout the inn buildings. The inn facing the street 
 was burnt in the Great Fire of Southward : " this house," says Aubrey, " remaining 
 before the fire of 1676, was an old timber house, probably coeval with Chaucer's time;"
 
 INNS OF OLD LONDON. 457 
 
 it is shown in the oldest view of the Tabard extant, in Urry's Chaucer, 1720, repro- 
 duced in The Mirror, vol. xxii. 1833. Mr. G. K. Corner, F.S.A., who has left us the 
 fullest and best account of the ancient Inns of Southwark (see Collections of the Surrey 
 Archaeological Society, vol. ii. part, ii.), was of opinion, from personal examination 
 of the premises (at some risk), that there was nothing in the existing remains of the 
 Tabard earlier than the Fire of 1676, after which was built the supposed "Pilgrims' 
 Hall," the fireplaces in which are of this date. [The date of the Canterbury Pil- 
 grimage is generally supposed to have been the year 1383. The MS., almost perfect, 
 well written, and richly illuminated, was exhibited to the British Association, in 1865, by 
 Archdeacon Moore, at Lichfield Cathedral.] Taylor the Water-poet mentions another 
 Tabard inn, " neere the Conduit," in Gracechurch-street. 
 
 The George is described by Stow as existing in his time ; and it is mentioned at an 
 earlier period, viz., in 1554, 35th Henry VIII., by the name of the St. George, as 
 being situate on the north side of the Tabard. In the seventeenth century, two 
 tokens were issued from TJie George, which are in the Beaufoy collection at Guild- 
 hall, and described in Mr. Burn's ably compiled Catalogue. The first is a token of 
 " Anthony Blake, Tapster, y e George in Southwarke " and on the reverse are three 
 tobacco-pipes ; above them, four beer-measures. The other token is inscribed, " James 
 Gunter 16 . ." ? St. George and Dragon, in field. Reverse, " In Southwarke :" in 
 the field, " I.A.G." Mr. Burn quotes some lines from the Musarum Delicia, 1656, 
 upon a surfeit by drinking bad sack at The George tavern in Southwark : 
 
 " Oh, would I might turne poet for an houre, 
 To satirize with a vindictive power 
 Against the drawer ! or I coul(^ desire 
 Old Jonson'shead had scalded m this fire : 
 How would he rage arid brine Apollo down 
 To scold with Bacchus, and depose the clown 
 For his ill-government, and so confute 
 Our poet-apes, that do so much impute 
 Unto the grape's inspirement !" 
 
 In the year 1670 The George was, in great part, burnt and demolished by fire ; and 
 it was totally burnt down in the Great Fire of Southwark, in 1676. The following is 
 from the Diary of the Rev. John Ward, written a few years later : 
 
 11CU1 atj. 1UBI gdlCb 11111, UCbnlAt LI 
 
 iary of the Rev. John Ward, p. 155. 
 
 The Fire was stopped by the substantial building of St. Thomas's Hospital, then 
 recently erected ; and, in commemoration of the event, there was a tablet placed on 
 the staircase, over the door of the hall or court-room, with an inscription. Although 
 the present building of The George Inn is not older than the end of the seventeenth 
 century, it seems to have been rebuilt, after the Fire, upon the old plan ; and it still 
 preserves the character of the ancient English inns, having open wooden galleries 
 leading to the chambers on each side of the inn-yard. 
 
 The White Hart, the head-quarters of Jack Cade and his rebel rout in 1450 (and a 
 dozen doors nearer London Bridge than the Tabard), has been demolished. The back 
 part of this inn was burnt in 1699, and the remainder was destroyed in the great Fire 
 in Southwark in 1676 ; it was rebuilt upon the plan of the older edifice, and is well 
 engraved from a drawing by Mr. Fairholt, in the Archa3ological Collections just quoted. 
 Shakspeare makes Cade say, " Hath my sword therefore broke through London gates, 
 that you should leave me at the White Hart in Southwark." At the Hart lodged 
 Jack Cade on his arrival in Southwark, July 1, 1450 ; " for," says Fabyan, " he might 
 not be suffered to enter the Citie." Again, of Cade's rebels, " at the Whyt Harte in 
 Southwarke one Hawaydine of Sent Martyns was beheddyd." (Chronicles of the Grey 
 Friars of London.) Hatton (1708) describes the White Hart as "the largest size 
 about London, except the Castle Tavern, in Fleet-street." Mr. Corner brought to- 
 gether some curious notices of this inn from the Paston Letters, vol. i. p. 61. The 
 White Hart of our time is well described in the Pickwick Papers, by Charles Dickens. 
 
 The other Southwark inns named by Stow remain, except the Christopher j but they
 
 458 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 have mostly lost their galleries and other olden features. The King's Head sign was 
 within our recollection a well-painted half-length of Henry VIII. The Catherine 
 Wheel remains ; but we miss the Dog and Bear, which sign, as well as Maypole-alley, 
 hard by, points to olden sport and pastime. 
 
 The White Lion, formerly a prison for the county of Surrey, as well as an inn, is 
 mentioned in records in the reign of King Henry VIII., having belonged to the Priory 
 of St. Mary Overey. It is also mentioned by Stow, and it continued to be the county 
 prison till 1695. The rabble apprentices of the year 1640, as Laud relates in his 
 Trou b les, released the whole of the prisoners in The White Lion. It has been supposed 
 that the White Lion was the same house that, before the building of New London 
 Bridge, was called Baxter's Chophouse, No, 19, High-street ; and in old deeds, The 
 Crown, or The Crown and Chequers, an old plaster-fronted house. The bouse which 
 stood in the court beside it, and was formerly called The Three Brushes, or " Holy Water 
 Sprinklers," was of the time of Elizabeth ; and some drawings exist of the interior, as 
 a panelled room, with an ornamental plaster ceiling, having in the centre the arms of 
 Queen Elizabeth, with E. R. in support of this opinion. This room is supposed to have 
 been the court or justice-room in which her Majesty's justices sat and held their sessions. 
 The house was pulled down about 1832, for making the new street to London Bridge. 
 
 Bear at the Bridge-foot was a noted house during the sixteenth and seventeenth 
 centuries, and it remained until the houses on the old bridge were pulled down, in or 
 about the year 1760. This house was situate in the parish of St. Olave, on the west side 
 of High-street, between Pepper-alley and the foot of London Bridge. It is mentioned in 
 a deed of conveyance (dated Dec. 12, 1554, in the first and second years of Philip and 
 Mary) ; and in the parish-books, of the same date, there is still earlier mention of this 
 house, for among the entries of the disbursements of Sir John Howard, in his steward's 
 accounts, are recorded : " March 6th, 1463-4. Item payd for the red wyn at the 
 Bere in Southewerke, iiid." And again, " March 14th (same year). Item payd at 
 dinner at the Bere in Southewerke, in Costys, iiis. iiirf. Item, that my mastyr lost at 
 shotynge, \xd." 
 
 Cornelius Cooke, mentioned in the parish accounts of St. Glare's as overseer of the land side as early 
 as 1630, became a soldier, and ultimately was made captain of the Trained Bands. He rose to the rank 
 of colonel in Cromwell's time, and was appointed one of the Commissioners for the sale of the king's 
 lands. After the Eestoration, he settled down as landlord of this inn. Gerrard, in a letter to Lord 
 Straflford, dated January, 1633, intimates that all back doors to taverns on the Thames were commanded 
 to be shut up, excepting only the Sear at tHe Bridge-foot, exempted by reason of the passage to Green- 
 wich. The " Cavaliers' Ballad" on the magnificent funeral honours rendered to Admiral Dean Ikilled 
 June 2, 1653) has the following allusion : 
 
 " From Greenwich towards the Sear at Bridge foot, 
 He was wafted with wind that had water to't ; 
 But I think they brought the devil to boot, 
 Which nobody can deny." 
 
 There is also another allusion in the following lines from a ballad " On banishing the Ladies out of 
 Town :" 
 
 " Farewell Bridge foot and Sear thereby, 
 
 And those bald pates that stand so high; 
 
 We wish it from our very souls 
 
 That other heads were on those poles, 
 
 Pepys, on the 24th February, 1666-7, mentions the mistress of the Sear drowning herself, and again 
 alludes to the inn on the 3rd of April following. 
 
 In, the year 1761 the Bear was pulled down, on the bridge being widened. In the 
 Public Advertiser, of Saturday, Dec. 26, 1761, is the following announcement : 
 " Thursday last, the workmen employed in pulling down the Bear tavern, at the foot 
 of London Bridge, found several pieces of gold and silver coin of Queen Elizabeth, and 
 other monies to a considerable extent." 
 
 Boar's Head. Southwark had its Boar's Head, as well as the City of London its 
 Boar's Head in East Cheap, immortalized by Shakspeare; and while the one is celebrated 
 as the resort of Jack Falstaff, the other was the property of another of Shakspere's 
 characters, who has often been erroneously confounded with lean Jack. Sir John Fastolf, 
 of Caistor, Norfolk, and of Southwark, where (in Stoney-lane) he had his town house, 
 was a man of military renown, having been in the French wars of Henry VI.,- and was 
 governor of Normandy : he was also a man of letters and learning, and the Boar's 
 Head formed part of the endowment of Magdalen College, Oxford, founded by his
 
 INNS OF OLD LONDON. 459 
 
 friend, William Waynflect, Bishop of Winchester, at whose instance Sir John Fastolf gave 
 large possessions in Southwark and elsewhere towards the foundation. In the Reliquice 
 Hearniance, edited by Dr. Bliss, is the following entry relative to this bequest : 
 
 1721. June 2. The reason why they cannot give so good an account of the benefaction of Sir John 
 Fastolf to Magd. Coll. is, because he gave it to the founder, and left it to his management, so that 
 'tis suppos'd 'twas swallow'd up in his own estate that he settled upon the college. However, the 
 college knows this, that the Soar's Head, in Southwark, which was then an inn, and still retains the 
 name, tho' divided into several tenements (which brings the college 1501. per annum), was part of 
 Sir John's gift. 
 
 The property above-mentioned was, for many years, leased to the father of the 
 author of the present work, and was by him principally sub-let to weekly tenants. The 
 premises were named " Boar's Head-court," and consisted of two rows of tenements, 
 vis-a-vis, and two houses at the east-end, with a gallery outside the first floors : the tene- 
 ments were fronted with strong weather-board, and the balusters of the staircases were 
 of great age. The Court entrance was between the houses Nos. 25 and 26, east side of 
 High-street, and that number of houses from old London Bridge ; and beneath the 
 whole extent of the Court was a finely-vaulted cellar, doubtless the wine-cellar of the 
 Soar's Head. The property was cleared away in making the approach to the new 
 bridge. (See Notes and Queries, 2nd s., No. 109.) In the Beaufoy Collection, at 
 Guildhall, is a token of the Soar's Head (a boar's head, lemon in mouth, 1649). 
 There were at St. Margaret's-hill, a Boar's Head-alley, and Boar's Head Livery Stables. 
 
 Spread Eagle, Gracechurch-street, was rebuilt after the Great Fire. Of this inn we 
 find Taylor, the Water-poet, in his Carrier's Cosmographie, 4to, 1637, mentioning " The 
 Tabard near the Conduit," and " the Spread Eagle," both in " Gracious-street." 
 The latter was taken down in 1865, but remained to the last nearly entire, with 
 its outer galleries to the two floors. The plot of ground which it occupied contained 
 in all 12,600 feet, 5600 feet of which were leasehold for a long term, and the rest 
 freehold. It was sold for 95,OOOZ. The ground is surrounded on three sides by 
 Leadenhall Market. There is a good view of the old inn in the Illustrated London 
 News, Dec. 23, 1865. 
 
 The Spread Eagle, besides being an early carriers' inn, became famous as a coaching-house; the 
 mails and principal stage-coaches for Kent and other southern counties arriving and departing from 
 here. It was long the property of John Chaplin, cousin of William Chaplin (Chaplin and Home), who 
 began life as a coachman at Rochester, served as Sheriff of London and Middlesex, and sat in Parlia- 
 ment for Salisbury. He died chairman of the London and South-Western Railway, and worth a 
 quarter of a million of money. He was occupier, at one period, of five inn-yards in London, possessed 
 2400 horses, and his receipts for booking parcels amounted to 80001. a year. 
 
 The Grasse-street of old was a memorable place. To this market for grass or herbs, in the reign of 
 Edward III., it was customary for every cart (not belonging to a citizen) laden with corn or malt going 
 there to be sold, to pay one] halfpenny; if laden with cheese, twopence. The cart of the franchise 
 of the Temple and St. Martin's-le-Grand paid a farthing; the cart of the Hospital of St. John of 
 Jerusalem paid nothing for their proper goods. In Aggas's plan is shown an open place upon which 
 White Hart-court was built after the Great Fire. Ben Jonson, in one of his masques, alludes to the 
 poulterer's wife in Grace's-street. Pepys calls the street " Gracious-street." Nov. 28, 1662, he records 
 
 j very near me upon all the people th ... 
 
 of the Plague), he was horrified "to see a person sick of the sores carried close by me by Ch-acechureh, 
 in a hackney-coach." He afterwards calls the street " Gracious-street ;" for he says, Nov. 25, 1668, " So 
 home, buying a barrel of oysters, at my old oysterwoman's in Gracious-street, but over the way to where 
 she kept her shop before (the Fire)." Sir John Fielding, in his Description of London and West- 
 minster, 1776, calls the street " Grasschurch-street, Cornhill." 
 
 Swan with Two Necks, Lad-lane, now Gresham-street, was long the head coach-inn 
 and booking-office for the North. The sign has been referred to a corruption of two 
 nicks, or the Vintners' Company's swan-marks on the bill ; but this popular notion is 
 discountenanced by Mr. Kempe, F.S.A. : are the two necks an heraldic monstrosity ? 
 
 "The carriers of Manchester doe lodge at the Two-Neck'd Swan in Lad-lane" (Taylor's Carrier't 
 Cosmographie, 1637), originally Lady's-lane. 
 
 Three Cups, Aldersgate- street, is.mentioned by Hatton ; with the same sign in St. 
 John-street, near Hicks's Hall; and in Bread-street, near the middle. Beaumont and 
 Fletcher have " the Three Cups in St. Giles's ;" and Winstanley mentions Richard 
 Head at the same sign in Holborn, making verses over a glass of Rhenish. 
 
 White Hart, Bishopsgate-street, taken down in 1829, bore on the front the date 
 1480 : it was three-storied, with overhanging upper floor, and occupied the site of " a
 
 460 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 faire inne for receipt of travellours, next unto the parish church of St. Buttolph," 
 thus described by Stow. 
 
 White Hart, Covent- garden, gave name to Hart-street, and is mentioned in 
 a lease to Sir William Cecil (Lord Burgfhley) of Sept. 7th, 1570. Weever has pre- 
 served this epitaph in the Savoy Church on an old vintner of the White Hart, who 
 died 1586: 
 
 "Here licth Humphrey Gosling, of London, vintner, 
 
 Of the Whyt Hart of this parish a neghbor, 
 
 Of vertuous behaviour, a very good archer, 
 
 And of honest mirth, a very good company keeper. 
 
 So well inclyned to poore and rich, 
 
 God send more Goslings to be sich." 
 
 WTiite Hart, corner of Welbeck-street, was long a detached public-house, where 
 travellers customarily stopped for refreshment, and to examine their fire-arms, before 
 crossing the fields to Lisson-green. The land westward of the bourn (whence the 
 parish, now Marylebone, was named) was a deep marshy valley : here was Fenning's 
 Folly, upon the top of which was built a fishmonger's ; the shop, level with the street, 
 having been the Folly upper story. 
 
 White Horse, Fetter- lane, was formerly the great Oxford house, as already mentioned 
 under FETTEE-LANE, p. 336. 
 
 Yorkshire Stingo, New-road, was celebrated for a century and a quarter, and 
 appears in a plan dated 1757 : here was held annually, on May 1, a Fair, until sup- 
 pressed as a nuisance. 
 
 INNS OF COURT AND CHANCERY. 
 
 THE hostels or abodes of the practisers and students of the law before the reign of 
 Edward II. were called Inns of Court, because their inhabitants belonged to the 
 King's Court, first noticed on the Placita Rolls, 10th Richard I. One of these, John- 
 son's Inn, is said to have been at Dowgate; another in Pewter's (Fetter) lane; and a 
 third in Paternoster-row. The Serjeants and Apprentices (of the Law) then each had 
 his pillar in St. Paul's Church, where he heard his client's case : 
 
 "A Serjeant of the law both ware and wise, 
 That often had yben at the Ferwyse." Chaucer's Canterbury Tales. 
 
 And in the reign of Charles I., upon the making of Serjeants, they went to St. Paul's 
 in their formalities, and chose their pillars. 
 
 Sir John Fortescue, Chief Justice to Henry VI., enumerates four Inns of Court 
 the Inner Temple, the Middle Temple, Lincoln's Inn, and Gray's Inn and ten Inns 
 of Chancery : the former frequented by the sons of nobility and wealthy gentry ; and 
 the latter by merchants and others, who had not the means of paying the greater ex- 
 penses (about 20 marks per annum) of the Inns of Court. The first were called 
 apprenticii nobiliores, the latter apprenticii only. On the working days they applied 
 themselves to the study of law ; on the holydays to holy Scripture. They also learned 
 singing and all kinds of harmony, dancing, and other noblemen's pastimes. The 
 only punishment for misdeeds was expulsion (as is the case now), which was greatly 
 dreaded. They were famous for their revels and other gaieties. 
 
 In 1635, the four Inns of Court gave a grand masque to Charles I. and Queen 
 Henrietta-Maria at Whitehall. 
 
 The Court of Star Chamber, however, took care of their morals by desiring the 
 principals of the Inns of Court and Chancery not to sufier the students to be out of 
 their houses after six o'clock at night, " without very great and necessary .causes, nor 
 to wear any kind of weapon " and the Court records prove the Star Chamber to have 
 committed to the Tower the Earl of Surrey, Sir Thomas Wyat, and young Pickering, 
 for breaking windows, and eating flesh in Lent. 
 
 In the reign of Philip and Mary it was ordained by all the four Inns of Court, "that none except 
 knights and benchers should wear in their doublets or hose any light colours, save scarlet and crimson ; 
 nor wear any upper velvet cap, or any scarf or wings in their gowns, white jerkins, buskins, or velvet 
 shoes, doulile cuffs in their shirts, feathers or ribbons in their caps ; and that none should wear their 
 study gowns in the City any farther than Fleet-bridge or Holborn-bridge ; nor, while in Commons, wear 
 Spanish cloak, sword and buckler, or rapier, or gowns and hats, or gowns girded with a dagger on the 
 bask." Dugdale's Originei Juridicialet.
 
 INNS OF COURT AND CHANCERY. 461 
 
 The students in the reign of Henry VI. were: 4 Inns of Court, each 200 = 800; 
 10 Inns of Chancery, each 100 = 1000; total, 1800. In 1850 there were in the four 
 Inns of Court upwards of 4000. 
 
 On Ascension-day, or Holy Thursday, when the custom of beating the bounds of most 
 of the City and other parishes takes place by the children of the parish schools, headed 
 by the clergy, parochial officers, and many inhabitants, the Temple and other Inns 
 of Court and extra-parochial places are shut up and guarded, to prevent the pro- 
 cessions passing through, which might possibly affect the privileges of the different 
 places. The two Temples and Gray's Inn are extra-parochial, i.e., pay no poor-rates 
 and maintain their own poor ; but Lincoln's Inn has not entirely that exemption. 
 
 The Inns of Court are interesting to others besides lawyers, for they are the last working institutions 
 in the nature of the old trade guilds. It is no longer necessary that a shoemaker should be approved by 
 the company of the craft before he can apply himself to making shoes for his customers, and a man may 
 keep an oyster-stall without being forced to serve an apprenticeship and be admitted to the Livery of 
 the great Whig Company ; but the lawyers' guilds guard the entrance to the law, and prescribe the rules 
 under which it shall be practised. There are obvious advantages in having some authority to govern 
 such a profession as the Bar, but it is sufficiently remarkable that voluntary societies of barristers them- 
 selves should have managed to engross and preserve it. Time journal. 
 
 THE TEMPLE lies between Fleet-street and the Thames, north and south; and 
 "Whitefriars and Essex-street, east and west ; divided by Middle Temple-lane into the 
 Inner and Middle Temple, each having its ball, library, and garden, quadrangles, 
 courts, &c. Originally there was also the Outer Temple, comprising Essex House and 
 gardens : a portion of the old Water-gate remains at the foot of Essex-street, 
 
 The ancient hostels existed until 1346 (20th Edward III.), when the Knights 
 Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem (to whom the forfeited estates of the rival 
 brotherhood of the Templars had been granted by the Pope) demised the magnificent 
 buildings, church, gardens, " and all the appurtenances that belonged to the Templars 
 in London," to certain students said to have removed thither from Thavies Inn, Hoi- 
 born, in which part of the town the Knights Templars themselves had resided before 
 the erection of their superb palaces on the Thames. In this New Temple, " out of the 
 City and the noise thereof, and in the suburbs," between the King's Court at West- 
 minster and the City of London, the studious lawyers lived in quiet, increasing ifi 
 number and importance ; so that, although the mob of Wat Tyler's rebellion plundered 
 the students, and destroyed almost all their books and records (" To the Inns of Court ! 
 down with them all !" Jack Cade), it became necessary to divide the Inn into two 
 separate bodies, the Hon. Societies of the Inner and Middle Temple ; having separate 
 halls, but using the same church, and holding their houses as tenants of the Knights 
 Hospitallers until the Dissolution by Henry VIII., and thenceforth of the Crown by 
 lease. In the sixth year of James I. the two Temples were granted by letters patent 
 to the then Chancellor of the Exchequer, the Eecorder of London, and others, the 
 bankers and treasurers of the Inner and Middle Temple, which, by virtue of this 
 grant, are held to this day by an incorporated society of the " students and practisers 
 of the laws of England." 
 
 THE INNEB TEMPLE is entered from Fleet-street by a gateway, built 5th James I., 
 beneath No, 17, Fleet-street, through Inner Temple-lane : at No. 1 lived Dr. Johnson 
 from 1760 to 1765. Upon the east side of the lane, the old chambers of Churchyard- 
 court have been taken down, and a noble stone-fronted structure erected in their 
 place; to this and the opposite new lines have been given the honoured names of 
 Johnson's and Goldsmith's Buildings. At the foot of the lane is the magnificent 
 western doorway of the church (described at pp. 205-207) ; and westward are the 
 cloisters, which were built by Wren after the fire of 1678, which fire Titus Gates 
 pretended to the Council was "a contrivance." Crown Office-row, facing the garden, 
 has also been rebuilt with a handsome stone fa9ade. In the former row was the 
 birthplace of Charles Lamb. 
 
 "Some gentlemen of the Inner Temple would not endeavour to preserve the goods which were in the 
 lodgings of absent persons, nor suffer others to do it, ' because,' they said, ' it was against the law to 
 break up any man's chamber !' " Lord Clarendon's Oim Life, p. 355. 
 
 Upon the broad terrace facing the garden are the Library (containing Bacon's 
 History of the Alienation Office, in MS.), and the Parliament Chamber in the Tudor
 
 462 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 style, completed by Smirke, R.A. in 1835 ; adjoining is the Hall, built upon the site of 
 a structure of the age of Edward III. Here are full-length portraits of Coke and 
 Littleton; and an emblematic Pegasus, by Sir James Thornhill. Here dinner is 
 served to the members of the Inn daily during term-time ; the masters of the bench 
 dining on the state or dais, and the barristers and students at long tables extending 
 down the hall to the carved screen at the western end. On grand days are present 
 the judges, who dine in succession with each of the four Inns of Court. 
 
 " At the Inner Temple, on certain grand occasions, it is customary to pass huge silver goblets (loving 
 cups) down the table, filled with a delicious composition, immemorially termed ' sack,' consisting of 
 sweetened and exquisitely flavoured white wine : the butler attends its progress to replenish it, and 
 each student is restricted to a tip. Yet it chanced not long since at the Temple, that, though the 
 number present fell short of seventy, thirty-six quarts of the liquid were consumed !" Quarterly 
 Beview, 1836, No. 110. 
 
 The gentlemen of the Inner Temple were of old famed for their plays, masques, 
 revels, and other sumptuous entertainments. Christmas, Halloween, Candlemas, and 
 Ascension-day, were anciently kept with great splendour in the Hall. In 1661 Charles 
 II. dined here, and was received with twenty violins, dinner being served by fifty 
 gentlemen of the society in their gowns. Next year, the Duke of York and Prince 
 Rupert were admitted members. For these feasts, the master of the revels arranged 
 the dancing and music; after the play, a barrister sang a song to the judges and 
 Serjeants ; and dancing was commenced by the judges and benchers round the sea-coal 
 fire. This dance is satirized in Buckingham's witty play of the Rehearsal ; and the 
 revels have been ridiculed by Dr. Donne in his Satires, and Prior in his Alma. Pope 
 in the Dunciad has : 
 
 " The judge to dance, his brother Serjeant calls." 
 
 Sir Christopher Hatton, with four other students of the Inner Temple, wrote the play of Tancred 
 and Gismwid, which, in 1568, was acted by that Society before the Queen. Sir Christopher wrote the 
 fourth act, signed " Composuit Chr. Hatton:" it was first printed in 1592, and there is a copy among the 
 Garrick Plays in the British Museum. 
 
 The last revel in any of the Inns of Court was that held Feb. 2, 1733, in the Inner Temple Hall, in 
 honour of Mr. Talbot, a bencher, having the Great Seal delivered to him. A large gallery built over the 
 screen was filled with ladies; and music in the little gallery at the upper end of the Hall played all 
 dinner-time. After dinner, began the play Love for Love, and the farce of The Devil to Pay, by actors 
 from the Haymarket. After the play, the Lord Chancellor, the Masters, Judges, and Benchers retired 
 into their Parliament Chamber ; in half an hour they returned to the Hall, and led by the Master of the 
 Eevels, formed a ring, and danced, or rather walked, round the fire-place, according to the old ceremony, 
 three times ; the ancient song, accompanied with music, being sung by one Tony Aston, dressed in a 
 bar-gown. This was followed by dancing, in which the ladies from the gallery joined ; then a collation 
 was served, and the company returned to dancing. The Prince of Wales was present. 
 
 Among the eminent members were Audley, Lord Chancellor to Henry VIII.; 
 Nicholas Hare (who built Hare-court), Master of the Kolls to Queen Mary ; Littleton 
 and Coke (in the reign of James I. the Temple was nicknamed "my Lord Coke's 
 shop ") ; Sir Christopher Hatton, Selden, Heneage Finch, Judge Jeffreys, and Sir 
 William Follett; and the poets Beaumont and Cowper. Speght's statement that 
 Chaucer studied here is much disputed. Among the Readers was " the judicious 
 Hooker," of whom, in 1851, a memorial bust was placed at the south-west angle of the 
 choir of the Temple Church. 
 
 " The view from the Temple Gardens, when, on the opposite side of the river, the 
 eye ranged over the green marshes and gradually rising ground to the Surrey hills, and 
 the rich oak and beech woods that clothed them, must have been beautiful." (Pearce's 
 Inns of Court.) The public are admitted to the Inner Temple Garden, about three acres, 
 on summer evenings from 6 to 9 : it is already described at p. 365. Towards its 
 south-eastern corner are the New Paper Buildings, of red brick and stone, erected 
 1848, by Sydney Smirke, A.R.A., with overhanging oriels and angle turrets, assimi- 
 lating to Continental examples of the Tudor style. 
 
 THE MIDDLE TEMPLE, west of the lane, is entered from Fleet- street by a red-brick 
 and stone-fronted gate-house, built by Wren, in 1684, " in the style of Inigo Jones, and 
 very far from inelegant " (Ralph). It occupies the site of the gate-house erected by 
 Sir Amias Paulet, as a fine imposed by Wolsey, whose prisoner he was ; and which he 
 garnished with cardinal's hats and arms to appease "his old unkind displeasure." 
 Abutting on the garden is Middle Temple Hall, built 1562-72, in the treasurership of 
 Plowden, the jurist. This Grand Hall is 100 feet long, 40 feet wide, and upwards of
 
 INNS OF COURT AND CHANCERY. 463 
 
 60 feet in height, and has a fine open timber roof, which omits the principal arched 
 rib, and multiplies the pendants and smaller curves ; it is very scientifically constructed, 
 and contains a vast quantity of timber. There is also a Renaissance carved screen and 
 music-gallery, dight with Elizabethan armour and weapons ; on the side windows are 
 emblazoned the arms of eminent members, as also on the great bay-windows, on the 
 dais or state ; " besides the Queen's and the 3 Lyons of England." 
 
 The fine collection of State pictures embraces the sovereigns from Charles I. to George I. inclusive. 
 The most striking of these is the noble equestrian portrait of Charles I. by Vandyck (one of the three 
 known to be by his hand), which has hung in the Middle Temple hall since 1684, when it was acquired 
 by the Society. Charles II.' B portrait is reputed to be the work of Sir Godfrey Kneller : it represents 
 the King in coronation robes, wearing the Garter ; it is a grandly studied work, though the flesh tints 
 have deepened ; the draperies are unrivalled, so finely are they cast and so brilliantly coloured. The 
 portrait of Queen Anne was painted from life for the Society. It appears from their records that on the 
 27th of November, 1702, the benchers directed the treasurer " to put up her Majesty's picture at the 
 west end of the hall over the bench, and to have it drawn by Mr. Dahl, unless the treasurer thinks fit to 
 make use of another hand." Dahl was a native of Sweden, and a rival of Kneller. But the treasurer of 
 the day selected a Scottish artist, Thomas Murray, for the work, who also painted the portrait of King 
 "William III. Cunningham says : " the portraits are chiefly copies, and not good." Around the Hall 
 are imitative bronze busts of the twelve Caesars; and on the dais, marble busts of Lords Eldon and 
 Stowell, by Behnes. 
 
 The oaken tables extend from end to end : " they cut their meat on wooden trenchers, 
 and drink out of green earthen pots." (Hatton, 1708.) Dugdale tells us that " until 
 the second year of Queen Elizabeth's reign, this Society did use to drink in cups of 
 aspe n-woo< l (such as are still in use in the King's Court), but then those were laid aside, 
 and green earthen pots introduced, which have ever since been continued." Speci- 
 mens of these green cups have been found in the Inner Temple, in Gray's Inn, and 
 Lincoln's Inn ; they hold half a pint, are tall, have a lip, and are surmised to have held 
 the portions assigned to each student, who was also supplied with a drinking-horn. 
 
 sum tus coece, nsea o eongng soey o e coos, was ve among a e o 
 of the house (see Herbert's Antiquities of the Inns of Court and Chancery). S. Blundell, Jf.S.A.. 
 
 In this noble Hall was performed Shakspeare's Twelfth Night, as recorded in the 
 table-book of John Manningham, a student of the Middle Temple : " Feb. 2, 1601(2). 
 At our feast we had a play called 'Twelfth Night, or What you will/" "It is yet 
 pleasant to know that there is one locality remaining where a play of Shakspeare was 
 listened to by his contemporaries, and that play Tivelfth Night." (Charles Knight : 
 Pictorial Edit. Shakspeare) The Middle Temple feasts were sumptuous : Evelyn 
 describes that of 1688 " so very extravagant and great, as the like had not been seen 
 at any time " he condemns the revels as " an old but riotous custom." Aubrey was 
 admitted 1646; here and at Trinity College, Oxford, he "enjoyed the greatest felicity" 
 of his life. Among his "Accidents" we find: " St. John's Night, 1673 : In danger of 
 being run through with a sword by a young templar, at Burges' chamber in the Middle 
 Temple." (Britton's Memoir of Aubrey, pp. 14, 19.) Elias Ashmole was called to 
 the bar at the Middle Temple, in 1660 : he had chambers in Middle Temple Lane. 
 
 The Reader at the Middle Temple appointed for the Lent Season, 1861 (Dr. Philli- 
 more), inaugurated his election to the office by reading, in the ancient hall of the Inn, 
 a paper on "Minority and Majority in England and Abroad." The Readers are 
 elected in rotation from the Benchers, and in the olden time their duty was to read 
 law twice in the year viz., in Hilary and Trinity Terms : but since the year 1680, 
 these public readings had been discontinued. 
 
 The New Library, built at the river end of Garden-court, and upon additional ground 
 purchased at the cost of 13,OOOZ., was commenced in August, 1858 ; H. R. Abraham, 
 architect. It is a beautiful edifice, in the collegiate style of the fifteenth century. 
 The lower portion is occupied by chambers ; the material is Bath stone. The Library, 
 which is a room of handsome proportions, 96 feet long, 42 wide, and 70 feet high, 
 occupies the upper portion, and is approached by a winding staircase in an octagonal 
 tower at the side. The roof, which reminds one of Westminster Hall, except that it
 
 464 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 is two-centred, is of American pitch-pine the first time this wood has been used for 
 the purpose iii England. The floor is of Portland stone, in panels, with Portland 
 cement in the centre compartments. There is a stained glass window at each end : the 
 oriel at the south is illuminated with the arms of the Royal Princes, from the time of 
 Richard Cceur de Lion down to the present Prince of Wales ; and the window at the 
 north represents the shields of all who have been Benchers during the time of its 
 erection. There are five windows at each side, which cast a dim studious light through 
 silvered glass. Over the door is fitly hung the portrait of the founder of the Library, 
 Robert Ashley. The Library was opened with due ceremony, October 30, 1861, by the 
 Prince of Wales, his Royal Highness having previously been enrolled a Member of the 
 Middle Temple, in form as follows : 
 
 The Master Treasurer moved, and the Lord Chancellor seconded, first, "that his Eoyal Highness 
 be admitted a member of the Middle Temple;" and next, "that his Royal Highness be called to the 
 degree of the outer Bar, and that the oath, on publication of the Call, be dispensed with." There being 
 no opposition, both motions were carried unanimously, and the Prince was invested with the Bar gown 
 and subscribed the Call-book. The next motion, also by the Treasurer, and seconded by the Lord 
 Chancellor, was " that his Royal Highness be invited to the Bench." This motion was also agreed to, 
 and the Prince assumed the Bencher's gown, and took his seat as a Master of the Bench, at the right 
 hand of the Treasurer. The new Master next moved "that the Parliament do adjourn, and proceed to 
 open the Library." 
 
 The event was commemorated by a sumptuous dejeuner and an evening fete to 
 nearly 1000 guests. The portrait of the Prince of Wales has been painted for the 
 Society ; and His Royal Highness's bust has been placed in the Library. 
 
 There formerly stood in a plot of ground which has since been purchased by the Society of the 
 Middle Temple, a Turkish (turban) tombstone, which was placed in the earth near a slab in the wall 
 which marked-the boundary of the Duchy of Lancaster. The stone is thought to have been abstracted 
 from some Turkish cemetery, brought to England, perhaps as ballast, and thus placed as a curiosity in 
 the little garden. A paper was written concerning this stone by W. H. Marley : it has disappeared. 
 Kotes and Querie, 3rd s. ix. 109. 
 
 Among the eminent members of the Middle Temple were Plowden, the jurist ; Sir 
 Walter Raleigh; Sir Thomas Overbury; John Ford, the dramatist; Sir Edward 
 Bramston, who had for his chamber-fellow Mr. Edward Hyde (afterwards Lord Chan- 
 cellor Clarendon) ; Bulstrode Wbitelocke ; Lord Keeper Guildford ; Lord Chancellor 
 Soiners ; Wycherley and Congreve ; Shadwell and Southerne ; Sit William Blackstone ; 
 Dunning, Lord Ashburton ; Lord Chancellor Eldon and Lord Stowell ; Edmund 
 Burke ; Richard Brinsley Sheridan ; and the poets Cowper and Moore. Oliver Gold- 
 smith had chambers in Brick-court, at the window of which he loved to sifr and watch 
 the rooks in Middle Temple Garden; Goldsmith died here on the 4th of April, 1774, in 
 his 46th year ; his rooms were at No. 2, second floor, over the chambers of Blackstone, 
 who was then finishing the fourth volume of his Commentaries. 
 
 Middle Temple Garden is well kept, and has an air of seclusion ; here is a caialpa 
 syringifolia, related to have been planted by Sir Matthew Hale. The Fountain in the 
 adjoining Court is described at pp. 356-7. 
 
 Sun-dials. There remain three dials, with mottoes : Temple-lane, "Pereuntet imputantur:" Essex- 
 court, "Vestigia nulla retrorsum ;" Brick-court, " Time and tide tarry for no man:" in Pump-court and 
 Garden-court are two dials without mottoes ; and in each Temple Garden is a pillar dial, dated 1770 ; 
 that in Middle Temple is elaborately gilt. Upon the old brick house at the east end of Inner Temple- 
 terrace, removed in 1828, was another dial, with this quaint inscription : " Begone about your business." 
 
 In Middle Temple-lane are some of the oldest chambers in the Temple, and within 
 the gate are shops. It was between the Temple Gate and the Bar that, in 1583, 
 Francis Bacon stood among his brother barristers to welcome Queen Elizabeth into the 
 City. And in one of the shops within the Gate lived Benj. Motte, the publisher of the 
 works of Pope and Swift ; his imprint being " at the Middle Temple Gate." 
 
 LINCOLN'S INN, on the west side of Chancery-lane, occupies the site of the palace of 
 Ralph Neville, Bishop of Chichester, and Lord High Chancellor to Henry III. ; and 
 of the ancient monastery of Black Friars in Holborn, granted to Henry de Lacy, Earl 
 of Lincoln, who built thereon his town-house or inn : soon after whose death, in 1312, 
 it became an Inn of Court, named from him Lincoln's Inn ; when also the greater part 
 of the estate of the see of Chichester was leased to students of the law. The Earl of 
 Lincoln's garden, with a pond or vivary for pike, is noticed at p. 365.
 
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 INNS OF COURT LINCOLN'S INN. 465 
 
 The precincts of Lincoln's Inn comprise the old buildings, about 500 feet frontage 
 in Chancery-lane, erected between the reigns of Henry VII. and James I. The Gate- 
 house, a fine specimen of Tudor brickwork, was built mostly at the expense of Sir 
 Thomas Lovell, " double reader" and treasurer of the Society. The entrance is an 
 obtusely-pointed arch, originally vaulted, between two four-storied square towers. The 
 bricks and tiles used in the Gatehouse and Hall were made from clay dug from a piece 
 of ground on the west side of the Inn, and called the Coneygarth, " well stocked with 
 rabbits and game." 
 
 Over the Gatehouse arch are painted and gilt the royal arms of King Henry VIII. within the garter 
 and crowned, having on the dexter side the arms of Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln; and on the sinister 
 side the arms and quarterings of Sir Thomas Lovell, K.G. ; beneath, on a riband, "3nnO Oottl. 
 1518. Lower down is a tablet denoting an early repair, inscribed : " Insignia haec refecta et decorata 
 Johanne Hawles Armig. Solicitat. General. Thesaurario 1695." The original doors of oak, put up 6 Eliz. 
 1564, still remain. In the court on the west is the ancient Hall (the oldest structure in the Inn), and the 
 old kitchen, now chambers ; on the north is the Chapel (described at p. 213) ; and in the centre are the 
 two Vice-Chancellors' Courts, built 1841. Spilsbury's Lincoln's Inn. 
 
 This and the three other courts of chambers were chiefly built temp. James I. At 
 No. 13, from 1645 to 1650, lived John Thurloe, Secretary of Oliver Cromwell. In 
 these chambers, it is said, was discussed early in 1649, by Cromwell and Thurloe, Sir 
 Richard Willis's plot for seizing Charles II. ; in the same room sat Thurloe's assistant, 
 young Morland, at his desk, apparently asleep, and whom Cromwell would have 
 dispatched with his sword, had not Thurloe assured him that Morland had sat up two 
 nights, and was certainly fast asleep : he, however, divulged the plot to the king, and 
 thus saved Charles's life. This narrative is given by Birch in his Life of Thurloe, 
 but rests upon questionable evidence. Here was discovered in the reign of William III. 
 a collection of papers, concealed in a false ceiling of the apartment : they form the 
 principal part of Dr. Birch's Thurloe State Papers. There is a tradition that Cromwell 
 had chambers in or near the Gatehouse, but his name is not in the registers of the 
 Society : his son Richard was admitted a student 23 Charles I. 
 
 Sun-dials. On two of the old gables are, 1. A southern dial, restored in 1840, which shows the hours 
 by its gnomon from 6 A.M. to 4 P.M., and is inscribed " Ex hoc momento pendet ssternitas." 2. A western 
 dial, restored in 1794, the Bight Hon. William Pitt, Treasurer, and again restored in 1848, from the 
 different situation of its plane, only shows the hours from noon till night : inscription, " Qua redit, 
 ncscitis horam." 
 
 The Old Hall, rebuilt 22 Henry VII., 1506, occupies the site of the original Hall, 
 and has a louvre on the roof, date 1552, and an embattled parapet ; opposite the 
 entrance, at the south end, is the old kitchen. The " goodly hall" is about 71 feet in 
 length and 32 in breadth ; height about equal to the breadth. It has on each side 
 three large three-light windows, with arched and cusped heads ; and a great oriel, 
 transomed, with arched head and cusps : at each end the room was lengthened ten feet 
 in 1819, when the open oak roof was removed, and the present incongruous coved 
 plaster ceiling substituted. At the lower end is a massive screen, erected in 1565, 
 grotesquely carved, and emblazoned with the full achievements of King Charles II., 
 James Duke of York, Prince Rupert, the Earl of Manchester, Lord Henry Howard, and 
 Lord Newport, date Feb. 29, 1671 : at the end of the Hall, in panels, are the arms of 
 distinguished members of the Society, including Lords Mansfield, Loughborough, Ellen- 
 borough, Brougham, &c. On the dais is the seat of the Lord Chancellor. The com- 
 mons of the Society were held here until the building of the New Hall. 
 
 Among the earliest distinguished members of Lincoln's Inn were, Sir John Fortescue, 
 temp. Henry VI.; Sir Thomas More, who removed here from New Inn;* Lambard and 
 Spelrnan, the antiquaries; the learned John Selden; Noy, Attorney-General to Charles I. ; 
 Lenthall, the Cromwellian Speaker ; and the great Lord Chancellor Egerton. 
 
 In this ancient Hall were held all the revels of the Society, their masques and Christmasings ; when 
 the benchers laid aside their dignity, and dancing was enjoined for the students, as conducive "to the 
 
 * " After a careful comparison of the facts and dates connected with both John Mores, the only rea- 
 sonable conclusion that can be formed seems to be that John More, first the butler, afterwards the 
 steward, and finally the reader, of Lincoln's Inn, was the Chancellor's grandfather ; and that John 
 More, junior, who was also at one time the butler there, was the Chancellor's father and afterwards the 
 Judge. Not only does this descent suit precisely the ' non celebri sed honestanatus' in Sir Thomas More's 
 epitaph, but it explains the silence of his biographers, and accounts for the Judge and the Chancellor 
 attending the readings of a society with which their family had been so closely connected." Edward 
 Foes, F.SA. : ArcJtaeologia, vol. xxxv. p. 33. 
 
 H H
 
 466 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 making of gentlemen more fit for their books at other times" (Dugdale's Originee) ; and by an order 7th, 
 of James I. " the under-barristers were, by decimation, put out of commons, for example's sake, because 
 they had not danced on the Candlemas-day preceding, when the judges were present." Of Christmas, 
 1661, Pepys writes : " The King (Charles 11.) visited Lincoln's Inn to see the revels there; there being, 
 according to an old custome, a prince and all his nobles, and other matters of sport and charge." Here 
 were present, Clarendon, Ormond, and Shaftesbury, at the revels of Hale ; Ley, and Denham the poet ; 
 and the gloomy Prynue standing, by. At these entertainments the Hall cupboard was set out with 
 the Society's olden plate, which includes silver basins and ewers, silver cups and covers, a silver college- 
 pot for festivals, and a large silver punch-bowl with two handles. 
 
 In 1671 Charles II. made a second visit, with his brother the Duke of York, Prince Eupert, and the 
 Duke of Mpnmouth, who were entertained in the Hall, and admitted members of the Society, and 
 entered their names in the admittance-book, which contains also the signatures of all members from the 
 reign of Elizabeth to the present time. Sir Matthew Hale entered here student in 1629 : he bequeathed 
 a large collection of MSS. to the Library. 
 
 Not many years ago it was the custom at Lincoln's Inn for one of the servants, attired in his usual 
 robes, to go to the threshold of the outer door about twelve or one o'clock, and exclaim three times, 
 " Venez manger I" when neither bread nor salt was upon the table. 
 
 New Square, southward of the ancient buildings, was completed in 1697, by Mr. 
 Henry Serle, a bencher of the Inn : in the centre was formerly a Corinthian column, 
 with a vertical sun-dial ; and at the base were four Triton jets d'eau : the area was 
 enclosed and planted in 1845. In the reign of Charles II. this was open ground, 
 known as Little Lincoln's Inn Fields, or Fickett's Fields : it is not part of the Inn. 
 
 The Stone Buildings, at the north-east extremity of the Inn, were designed by Sir 
 Robert Taylor, and completed by Hardwick, in 1845 : the architecture is beautiful 
 Corinthian. This is only part of a design, in 1780, for rebuilding the whole Inn. 
 
 ; " The working drawings were made by a young man of the name of Leech, then a clerk in Taylor's 
 office, who afterwards became a student of Lincoln's Inn, and died filling the high and lucrative office 
 in the law of Master of the Eolls. Leech's drawings are preserved in the library of Lincoln's Inn. 
 Cunningham's Handbook, p. 473. 
 
 The garden was enlarged, and the terrace-walk on the west was made, in 1663 : 
 
 "To Lincoln's Inn, to see the new garden which they are making, which will be very pretty, and 
 to the walk under the chapel by agreement." Pepys's Diary. 
 
 Into Lincoln's Inn walks Isaac Bickerstaff sometimes went instead of the tavern (Tatter, No. 13) ; 
 and a solitary walk in the garden of Lincoln's Inn was a favour indulged in by several of the benchers, 
 Isaac's intimate friends, and grown old with him in this neighbourhood (Tatler, No. 100). 
 
 The ruined gamester (Tatler, No. 13) in the morning borrows half-a-crown of the maid who cleans 
 his shoes, " and is now gaming in Lincoln's-inn Fields among the boys for farthings and oranges, until 
 he has made up three pieces ; and then he returns to White's, into the best company in town." 
 
 The Gardens were much curtailed by the building of the New Hall and Library; 
 when disappeared " the walks under the elms," celebrated by Ben Jonson. Among 
 the officers of the Society is a " Master of the Walks." (See GAEDENS, p. 365.) 
 And, in 1662, was revived the ancient custom of electing a Lord-Lieutenant, and Prince 
 of the Grange. 
 
 On the western side of the garden, almost on the site of the Coneygarth, are the 
 Neiv Hall and Library, a picturesque group, finely situated for architectural effect, in 
 the late Tudor style (temp. Henry VIII.), having a corresponding entrance-gate from 
 Lincoln's-inn-fields ; architect, Philip Hardwick, R. A. The foundation-stone was laid 
 April 20, 1843 : the hall is arranged north and south, and the library east and west j 
 the two buildings being connected by a vestibule, flanked by a drawing-room and 
 council-room. The materials are red bricks, intersected with black bricks in patterns, 
 and stone dressings. The south end has a lofty gable, inscribed, in dark bricks, "P. H." 
 (Philip Hardwick), and the date 1843 ; flanked on each side by a square tower, battle- 
 mented ; beneath are shields, charged with lions and milrines, the badges of the Society : 
 between the towers is the great window of the Hall, of seven lights, transomed, and the 
 four-central arch filled with beautiful tracery. On the apex of the gable, beneath a 
 canopied pinnacle, is a statue of Queen Victoria ; Thomas, sculptor. The side buttresses 
 are surmounted by octagonal pinnacles. The roof is leaded, and in its centre is an 
 elegant louvre, surrounded by slender pinnacles bearing vanes ; the capping has crockets 
 and gurgoyles, and is surmounted by a vane with direction-points in gilded metal- work - 
 the whole very tasteful. The entrance to the Hall is at the south-east tower, by a 
 double flight of steps to the porch, above which are the arms of the Inn. Above is the 
 clock, of novel and beautiful design, with an enriched pedimental canopy in metal- 
 work. 
 
 The central building, the entrance to the Library and Great Hall, has end oriels, 
 and an octagonal embattled crown or lantern, filled with painted glass, and reminding
 
 INNS OF COURT LINCOLN'S INN. 467 
 
 one of the octagon of Ely Cathedral. From the esplanade is the entrance by flights of 
 steps to a porch, the gable bearing the lion of the Earl of Lincoln holding a banner ; 
 and at the apex of the great gable of the library roof is a circular shaft, surmounted 
 by an heraldic animal supporting a staff and banner. The Library has large end 
 oriels, of beautiful design, and five bay-windows on the north side ; the lights being 
 separated by stone compartments, each boldly sculptured with heraldic achievements 
 of King Charles II., James Duke of York, E.G., Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, K.G. 
 (all visitors of the Society), and Albert Edward Prince of Wales. The buttresses 
 dividing the bays are terminated by pillars, surmounted by heraldic animals. At the 
 north-west angle of this front is an octagonal bell-turret. On the western front 
 towards Lincoln's-inn Fields, the clustered chimneys have a beautiful effect : they are 
 of moulded red brick, resembling those at Eton College and Hampton Court Palace. 
 The bosses, gurgoyles, and armorial, grotesque, and foliated ornaments throughout the 
 building are finely sculptured. 
 
 Entering by the southern tower, the corridor is arranged on the plan of the college 
 halls of the Universities, and has a buttery-hatch, and stairs leading to the vaulted 
 kitchen, 45 feet square and 25 feet high, with one of the largest fire-places in England ; 
 adjoining are cellars for one hundred pipes of wine. 
 
 From the corridor, through a carved oak screen, you enter the Hall : length, 120 
 feet ; width, 45 feet ; height to the apex of roof, 62 feet. In size it exceeds the halls 
 of the Middle Temple, Hampton Court Palace, and Christ-church, Oxford ; but is ex- 
 ceeded in length by the hall of Christ's Hospital, which is 187 feet. The upper part 
 of the screen serves as the front of the gallery, between the arches of which, upon 
 pedestals, in canopied niches, are costumed life-size figures of these eminent members of 
 the Society : Lord Chief- Justice Sir Matthew Hale ; Archbishop Tillotson, one of the 
 preachers of Lincoln's-inn; Lord Chief- Justice Mansfield; Lord Chancellor Hard- 
 wicke ; Bishop Warburton, one of the preachers ; and Sir William Grant, Master of 
 the Rolls. The sides of the Hall are panelled with oak, and the cornice is enriched 
 with gilding and colour. The five large stained-glass windows on either side contain, 
 in the upper lights, the arms, crests, and mottoes of distinguished members of the 
 Society, chronologically arranged, from 1450 to 1843 ; and the lower divisions are 
 diapered with the initials " L. I." and the milrine. Above the windows is a cornice 
 enriched with colour and gilding. 
 
 The roof is wholly of oak, and is divided into seven compartments by trusses, each 
 large arch springing from stone corbels, and having two carved pendants (as in Wolsey's 
 'Hall at Hampton Court), at the termination of an inner arch, that springs from 
 hammer-beams projecting from the walls. These pendants are illuminated blue and 
 red, and gilt, and they each carry a chandelier to correspond. Between the wall 
 trusses is' a rnachicolated cornice, panelled and coloured. 
 
 Here is a nobly-designed fresco by G. F. Watts " The Origin of Legislation." 
 This great work was the gift of Mr. Watts, the artist ; commenced in 1854, but soon 
 after discontinued through illness, and not renewed till 1857 finished Oct. 1859. 
 
 On April 25, I860, Mr. Watts was entertained in the Hall an honour before conferred on no painter 
 except Hogarth, who dined there in 1750 was presented by this Society with a silver-gilt cup, value 1501., 
 and purse of 5001. ; the testimonial being " not in the character of compensation, but as a testimony of 
 the friendly feeling of the Society for the man who had selected it as the recipient of so valued a gift, 
 and of its appreciation of his genius as an artist." 
 
 On the northern wall, above the dais panelling, is the picture of Paul before Felix, 
 painted in 1750 by Hogarth, and removed from a similar position in the Old Hall. 
 The composition is good ; but the conception of character commonplace. 
 
 By the will of Lord Wyndham, Baron of Finglass, and Lord High Chancellor of Ireland, the sum 
 of 2001. was bequeathed to the Society, to be expended in adorning the Chapel or Hall, as the benchers 
 should think fit. At the recommendation of Lord Mansfield, Hogarth was engaged to paint the pic- 
 ture, which was at first designed for the chapel. Spilsbury's Lincoln's Inn, p. 103. 
 
 At the opposite end of the Hall is a noble marble statue, by Westmacott, of Lord 
 Erskine, Chancellor in 1806. 
 
 On either side of the dais, in the oriel, is a sideboard for the upper or benchers' 
 table ; the other tables, ranged in gradation, two crosswise and five along the hall, are 
 for the barristers and students, who dine here every day during term : the average 
 
 H H 2
 
 468 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 number is 200 ; and of those who dine on one day or other during the term, " keeping 
 commons," is about 500. 
 
 The western oriel window contains, in the upper light, the armorial bearings of Ralph Neville, Bishop 
 of Chich ester : Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln: William de Haverhyll, Treasurer to King Henry III. , 
 Edward Sulyard, Esq., by whom the inheritance of the premises of Lincoln's Inn was transferred to the 
 Society in 1580 : whose arms are also here motto : " Longa professio est pacis jus." In the middle of 
 the window are the arms of King Charles II. within the garter, and surmounted by the crown, with the 
 supporters and motto ; also the arms of James Duke of York and of Prince Rupert. On the other side, 
 the quarrels of the whole windows are diapered, like the other windows of the hall, with the milrine 
 and L. I. The oriel window, on the eastern side, contains all the stained glass removed from the old 
 hall, consisting of the armorial insignia of noblemen, legal dignitaries, &c. All the heraldic decora- 
 tions, with the exception of the eastern oriel, are by Mr. Willement. Spilsbury's Lincoln's Inn, 
 pp. 104-5. 
 
 From the dais of the Hall large folding-doors open into the vestibule, east of which 
 is the Council-chamber ; and west, the Drawing-room : the stone chimney-pieces are 
 finely sculptured. In the Drawing-room are portraits of Justice Glanville, 1598 ; Sir 
 John Granville, Speaker of the House of Commons, 1640 ; Sir Matthew Hale, 1671, 
 by M. Wright (acquired by the Society, with his collection of MSS.) ; Sir Richard 
 Rainsford, Lord Chief-Justice K.B., 1676, by Gerard Soest ; Lord Chancellor Hard- 
 wicke, 1737, after Ramsay ; Lord Chancellor Bathurst, 1771, by Sir N. Dance ; Sir 
 John Skynner, Lord Chief Baron, 1771, by Gainsborough; Sir William Grant, Master 
 of the Rolls, by Harlow; Francis Hargreave, Treasurer in 1813, by Sir Joshua Rey- 
 nolds ; and Sir H. Haddington, Speaker of the House of Commons. 
 
 In the Council-room is a portrait of Sir John Franklin, of Mavourn, Beds, Knight, 
 a master in chancery thirty -three years ; ob. 1707. Here are also several copies from 
 the old masters ; and a Lady with a Guitar, by William Etty, R.A. The walls of both 
 Council and Drawing-rooms are also hung with a valuable collection of engraved por- 
 traits of legal dignitaries, eminent prelates, &c. 
 
 The Library, 80 feet long, 40 feet wide, and 44 feet high, has an open oak roof, of 
 much originality. The projecting book-cases form separate apartments for study, and 
 have an iron balcony running round them about midway, and another gallery over 
 them against each wall. Each of the oriel windows displays arms of the present 
 benchers ; as also the five northern windows, except the lower lights of the central one, 
 which are filled with the arms of Queen Victoria, of brilliant colour and broad 
 treatment. The glass of the windows consists of small circular panes, termed beryl 
 glazing, of remarkable brilliancy. 
 
 The Society's valuable collection of MSS., mostly bequeathed by Sir Matthew Hale, 
 are deposited in two rooms opening from the Library. The books and MSS. exceed 
 25,000 : the collection of law-books is the most complete in this country, and here are 
 many important works on history and antiquities. The Library, founded in 1497, is 
 older than any now existing in the metropolis ; and many of the volumes still retain 
 iron rings, by which they were secured by rods to the shelves. The early Year-books 
 are chiefly in their original oak binding ; and four of them belonged to William 
 Rastell, nephew of Sir Thomas More. Among the other rarities are, Le Mirror a 
 Justices, per Andrew Home, in a hand of the reign of James I. ; Placita of the whole 
 reign of Edward II. on vellum, written in the fourteenth century ; two volumes of 
 Statutes on vellum, Edward III. and Henry V. ; a MS. Year-book, Edward III.; the 
 fourth volume of Prynne's Records, bought for 335Z. by the Society at the Stowe sale, 
 in 1849 (it was published in the year of the Great Fire, when most of the copies were 
 burnt); several MSS. in the handwriting of Sir Matthew Hale, Archbishop Usher, 
 and the learned Selden ; a beautiful copy of the works of King Charles I., which had 
 belonged to King Charles II. ; Baron Maseres's copy of his Scriptores Logarithmici, 
 six vols. 4to; Charles Butler's fine copy of Tractatus Universi Juris, with index, 
 twenty-eight vols. folio, &c. (See Spilsbury's Lincoln's Inn, specially devoted to the 
 Library ; to which carefully-written work we are much indebted.) 
 
 The New Hall and Library were inaugurated October 30, 1845, by Queen Victoria 
 and Prince Albert, when Her Majesty held a levee in the Library, at which the 
 Treasurer of the Inn, J. A. F. Sirnpkinson, was knighted; the Prince became a 
 member of the Society, and with the Queen signed his name in the Admittance-book. 
 Her Majesty and Prince Albert then partook of an early banquet in the Great Hall ; 
 this being the first visit of a sovereign to the Inn for nearly two centuries.
 
 INNS OF COURT GRAY'S INN. 469 
 
 Lincoln's Inn is exempted from poor-rates as extra-parochial. The ground on which 
 the New Hall is built belonged, at the time of building, to the parish of St. Giles in 
 the Fields ; but was, by agreement, subsequently severed from that parish, and 
 annexed to the vill or township of Lincoln's Inn, the Society paying annually a com- 
 pensation to the parish for the rates. 
 
 The Old-buildings are continued to New-square, where may be noted some vine and 
 fig trees. There are some very old houses and shops near the Carey-street gate : some 
 shops are stuck up against the main building : these in former days had been book-stalls. 
 
 At Lincoln's Inn and at Gray's Inn the Curfew-bell is rung every night at nine 
 o'clock; though, in this respect, the societies do not stand alone, for curfew-ringing is a 
 practice still preserved in many towns scattered about England. 
 
 GKAT'S INN, on the north side of Holborn, and west of Gray's-Inn-lane, appears to 
 have been "a goodly house since Edward III.'s time." (Stow.) It was originally the 
 residence of the noble family of Grey of Wilton, who, in 1505, sold to Hugh Denny, 
 Esq., " the manor of Portpoole (one of the prebends belonging to St. Paul's Cathedral), 
 otherwise called Gray's Inn, four messuages, four gardens, the site of a windmill, eight 
 acres of land, ten shillings of free rent, and the advowson of the chantry of Portpoole." 
 The manor was next sold to the prior and convent of East Sheen, in Surrey, who 
 leased " the mansion of Portpoole" to " certain students of the law," at the annual 
 rent of 61. 13*. 4d. ; and after the Dissolution by Henry VIII. the benchers of Gray's 
 Inn were entered in the King's books as the fee-farm tenants of the Crown, at the same 
 rent as paid to the monks of Sheen. 
 
 The principal entrance to Gray's Inn is from Holborn, by a gateway erected 1592, 
 a good specimen of early brickwork, leading to South-square (formerly Holborn-court), 
 separated by the hall, chapel, and library from Gray's-inn-square. Westward is 
 Field-court, with a gate, now blocked up, to Fulwood's Rents (see p. 363) ; and 
 opposite is the lofty gate of the gardens ; Verulam-buildings east ; Raymond-buildings 
 west; the northern boundary-wall being in King's- road. The old name of Gray's-inn- 
 square was Corner-court, an evident relic of the Manor of Portpoole. 
 
 The Hall was completed in 1560. It has an open oak roof, divided into seven bays 
 by Gothic arched ribs, the spandrels and pendants richly carved ; in the centre is an 
 open louvre, pinnacled externally. The interior is wainscoted, and has an oaken screen, 
 decorated with Tuscan columns, caryatides, &c. The windows are richly emblazoned 
 with arms. The men of Gray's Inn had their masques and revels, and were " prac- 
 tisers" of gorgeous interludes and plenteous Christmasings : a comedy acted here 
 Christmas, 1527, written by John Roos, a student of the Inn, and afterwards serjeant- 
 at-law, so offended Wolsey, that its author was degraded and imprisoned. Adjoining 
 is the Chapel, probably on the site of the " chantry of Portpoole," wherein masses 
 were daily sung for the soul of John, the son of Reginald de Gray, for which lands 
 were granted to the prior and convent of St. Bartholomew, Smithfield : at their ex- 
 pense divine service was subsequently performed here on behalf of the Society ; and 
 after the Dissolution, the chaplain's salary was paid out of the Augmentation Court. 
 At the Reformation, the Popish utensils, with a pair of organs, were sold, but were 
 restored by Mary ; and by command of Henry VIII. was taken out a window, " wherein 
 the image of St. Thomas a- Becket was gloriously painted." Richard Sibbs, author of 
 TJie Bruised Reed, was one of the preachers. 
 
 I 29 Elizabeth, for the better relief of the poor in Gray's-inn-lane, alms were distributed thrice by 
 the week at Gray's Inn gate. 
 
 James I. signified by the judges that none but gentlemen of descent should be admitted of Gray's Inn. 
 The Headers had liberal allowances of wine and venison; vi*. viiirf. was paid for each mess; egas 
 and green sauce were the breakfast on Lenten-days ; and beer did not exceed 6s, per barrel. Caps 
 were compulsorily worn at dinner and supper ; and hats, boots, and spurs, and standing with the back 
 to the fire, in the hall, were forbidden under penalty. Dice and cards were only allowed at Christinas. 
 Lodging double was customary in the old inn ; and at a pension, 9 July, 21 Henry VIII., Sir Thomas 
 Ncvile accepted Mr. Attorney-General (Sir Christopher Hales) to be his bedfellow in his chamber here. 
 
 Gray's Inn has been noted for its exercises, called by Stow " Boltas Mootes, and putting of cases." 
 Bailey defines "Bolting (in Gray's Inn), a kind of exercise, or arguing cases among the students." (Diet., 
 3rd edit. 1737.) " Bolting is a term of art used in Gray's Inn, and applied to the bolting or arguing ot' 
 moot cases" (Cowell's Law Diet.) ; and he argues the bolting of cases to be analogous to the bouhing 
 or silting of meal through a bag. Judge Hale has " beats and bolts out the truth." Danby Pickering, 
 Esq., of Gray's Inn, was the last who voluntarily resumed these mootings. 
 
 The Garden (Gray's-inn-walks) was first planted about 1600, when Mr. Francis
 
 470 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Bacon, after Lord Verulam, was treasurer. (See GARDENS, p. 366.) Howell, in a letter 
 from Venice, June 5, 1621, speaks of Gray's-inn-walks as the pleasantest place about 
 London, with the choicest society ; and they were in high fashion as a promenade and 
 place of assignation in Charles II.'s time, when from Bacon's summer-house, on a 
 mount, there was a charming view towards Highgate and Hampstead. The Garden 
 was formerly open to the public, like those of the Inner Temple and Lincoln's Inn. 
 
 Hall the chronicler, and Gnscoigne the poet, studied at Gray's Inn : Gascoigne and 
 his fellow-student Kinwelmersh translated the Jocasta of Euripides, which was 
 acted in Gray's-inn-hall 1566. Bradshaw, president at the trial of Charles I., was a 
 bencher. Sir Thomas Holt was treasurer of Gray's Inn ; and his son, Lord Chief- 
 Justice Holt, was entered upon the Society's books before he was ten years old : he is 
 Verus the magistrate, in the Tatler, No. 14. 
 
 Lord Burghley entered at Gray's Inn in 1541, and made genealogy his special 
 study. Sir Nicholas Bacon kept his terms here, was called to the bar of the Society, 
 and was elected Treasurer 1552 ; and his son Francis, Lord Verulam, was admitted 
 here, and made an ancient in 1576 : here he sketched his great work the Organum, 
 though law was his principal study. In 1582, he was called to the Bar ; in 1586, 
 made a Bencher; in 1588, appointed Reader to the Inn; and in 1600, the Lent double 
 Reader : in the interval he wrote his Essays, dedicated " from my chamber at Graie's 
 Inn, this 30 of Januarie, 1597." In 1583, he stood among the barristers at Temple 
 Bar to welcome Queen Elizabeth into the City. Bacon had chambers in Gray's Inn 
 when Lord Chancellor ; and here he received the suitors' bribes, by which his name 
 became tarnished with infamy. After bis downfall and distress, when he had parted 
 with York House, he resided, during his visits to London, at his old chambers in 
 Gray's Inn ; whence, in 1626, on a severe day, he went in his coach to Highgate, took 
 cold in stuffing a fowl with snow as an anti-putrescent, became too ill to return to 
 Gray's Inn, and was carried to the Earl of Arundel's house at Highgate, where he died 
 within a week. Bacon is traditionally said to have lived in the large house facing 
 Gray's Inn garden-gates, where Fulke Greville, Lord Brooke, frequently sent him 
 home-brewed beer from his house in Holborn. Basil Montagu,* however, fixes Bacon's 
 chambers on the site of No. 1, Gray's-inn-square, first floor ; the house was burnt 
 Feb. 17, 1679, with 60 other chambers. (Historian's Guide, 3rd edit. 1688.) Lord 
 Campbell speculatively states that Bacon's chambers " remain in the same state as when 
 he occupied them, and are still visited by those who worship his memory." (Lives of 
 the Lord Chancellors, vol. ii. p. 274.) The association with Bacon is recorded in 
 " Verularn-buildings." 
 
 David Jones, the patriotic Welsh judge, temp. Charles I., was of Gray's Inn; 
 Romilly was also a member ; and Southey was entered here on leaving Oxford. The 
 students were formerly often refractory. Pepys writes in May, 1667 : " Great talk of 
 how the Barristers and Students of Gray's Inn rose in rebellion against the Benchers 
 the other day, who outlawed them, and a great deal to do ; now they are at peace again." 
 
 Within Gray's-inn-gate, next Gray's-inn-lane, lived Jacob Tonson, who published 
 here Dryden's Spanish Friar, 1681, said to be the first work published by the Tonsons : 
 Jacob was the second son of a barber- chirurgeon in Holborn. At Gray's-inn-gate, also, 
 lived Thomas Osborne, the bookseller, who gave 13,000. for the booJcs from the Har- 
 leian Library, for the binding of a portion of which Lord Oxford is stated by Dibdin 
 to have paid 18,OOOZ. 
 
 The Gray's Inn Journal, in the style of the Spectator, was started by Arthur 
 Murphy, in 1752, and continued weekly two years. Murphy studied the law, was 
 refused admission to the Societies of the Temple and of Gray's Inn because he had 
 been an actor as well as author, but was admitted of Lincoln's Inn. He was of a 
 high family. He died a Commissioner of Bankrupts, 1805. Clergymen are admitted 
 to Inns of Court and to the Bar, though they were not so until very lately. 
 
 In Gray's Inn lived Dr. Rawlinson (" Tom Folio" of the Tatler, No. 158), who 
 stuffed four chambers so full with books, that he slept in the passage. In Holborn- 
 
 * Mr. Montagu, who died in 1852, possessed a glass and silver-handled fork, with a shifting silver 
 spoon-bowl, which once belonged to Lord Verulam, whose crest, a boar, modelled in gold, surmounts 
 the fork-handle.
 
 INNS OF CHANCERY. 471 
 
 court (now South-square) were the chambers of Joseph Ritson, the literary antiquary 
 and rigid Pythagorean : the site is now occupied by the libraries, between the hall and 
 chapel, built by Wigg and Pownall in 1841 ; style, elegant Italian. 
 
 Admission to the Inns, and Call to the Bar. The four Inns of Court, viz. the two Temples, Lincoln's 
 Inn, and Gray's Inn, have exclusively (through their board of Benchers, usually their Queen's Counsel) 
 the power of conferring the degree of Barrister-at-Law, requisite for practising as an advocate or 
 counsel in the Superior Courts. Lincoln's Inn is generally preferred for students who contemplate the 
 Equity Bar ; it being the locality of Equity Counsel and Conveyancers, and of Equity Courts or Courts 
 of Chancery. If the student design to practise the common law, either immediately as an advocate at 
 "Westminster, the assizes, and sessions, or as a special pleader (a learned person who, having kept his 
 terms, is allowed to draw legal forms and pleadings, though not actually at the bar), his choice lies 
 usually between the Inner Temple, the Middle Temple, and Gray's Inn, though he may adopt Lincoln's 
 Inn. The Inner Temple, from its formerly insisting on a classical examination before admission, be- 
 came more exclusive than the Middle Temple or Gray's Inn. Gray's Inn has been numerously attended 
 by Irish students, and has produced some of the greatest luminaries at the Irish Bar, including Daniel 
 O'Connell. In the present day, Mr. Justice Lush, Serjeant Payne, Lord Romilly, M.B., and Mr. 
 Huddleston, Q.C., have been students of Gray's Inn, and the two latter are still among its benchers. 
 
 To procure admission to either of these Inns, the student must obtain the certificate of two bar- 
 risters, coupled in the Middle Temple with that of a bencher, to the effect that the applicant is a fit 
 person to be received into the Inn for the purpose of being called to the Bar. Once admitted, the 
 student has the useof the Library, and is entitled to a seat in the church or chapel of the Inn, and to have 
 his name set down for chambers. He is then required to keep commons, by dining in the hall for twelve 
 terms (four terms occur in each year); on commencing which, he must deposit with the treasurer 1001., 
 to be retained with interest until he is called; but resident members of the Universities are exempt from 
 this deposit. The student must also sign a bond with sureties for the payment of his commons and 
 term fees. In all the Inns no person can be called unless he is above twenty-one years of age and three 
 years' standing as a student. The call is made by the benchers in council ; after which the student be- 
 comes a barrister, and takes the usual oath at Westminster. A Council of Legal Education has, how- 
 ever, of late years been established by the four Inns of Court, to superintend the subject of the educa- 
 tion of students for the Bar ; and, by order of this council, law lectures are given by learned professors 
 at the four Inns, all of which any student of any of the Inns can attend. Examinations also take place, 
 and scholarships, certificates, and other marks of approbation are the rewards of the successful students. 
 Nevertheless persons may still be called to the Bar, regardless of the lectures and examinations ; but 
 in all cases keeping commons by dining in the hall is still absolutely necessary. 
 
 A Hall Dinner is a formal scene. At five or half-past five o'clock, the barristers, students, and other 
 members in their gowns, having assembled in the hall, the benchers enter in procession to the dais; 
 the steward strikes the table three times, grace is said by the treasurer or senior bencher present, and 
 the dinner commences : the benchers observe somewhat more style at their table than the other mem- 
 bers do at theirs : the general repast is a tureen of soup, a joint of meat, a tart, and cheese, to each 
 mess consisting of four persons ; each mess is also allowed a bottle of port-wine. The dinner over, the 
 benchers, after grace, retire to their own apartment. At the Inner Temple, on May 29, a gold cup of 
 " sack " is handed to each member, who drinks to the happy restoration of Charles II. At Gray's Inn 
 a similar custom prevails, but the toast is the memory of Queen Elizabeth. The Inner Temple Hall 
 waiters are called panniers, from the panarii who attended the Knights Templars. At both Temples 
 the form of the dinner resembles the repast of the military monks : the benchers on the dais represent- 
 ing the Knights ; the barristers, the Freres, or Brethren ; and the students, the Novices. The Middle 
 Temple still bears the arms of the Knights Templars, viz. the figure of the Holy Lamb. 
 
 The entrance expenses at the Inner Temple (the average of the costs at other Inns) are 4f)l. 11*. 5d., 
 of which 251. Is. 'id. is for the stamp ; on call, 821. 12., of which 521. 2s. 6d. is for the stamp : total 
 1231. 3s. The commons bill is about 121. annually, 
 
 Arms of Temple, Inner : Az. a pegasus salient, or. Temple, Middle : Arg. on a cross gu. a paschal 
 lamb or, carrying a banner of the first, charged with a cross of the second. Lincoln's Inn: Or, a lion 
 rampant purp. These were the arms of Lacy, Earl of Lincoln. Gray's Inn : Sa. a griffin segreant, or. 
 
 INNS OF CHANCERY. 
 
 THESE Inns were formerly the nurseries of our great lawyers ; but they are at pre- 
 sent attached only by name to the parent Inns of Court : the Inner Temple had 
 three, Clement's, Clifford's, and Lyon's Inns; the Middle Temple one, New Inn; 
 Lincoln's Inn one, Thavie's ; and Gray's Inn two, Barnard's and Staple Inns. 
 
 BABNABD'S INN, Holborn, anciently Mackworth's, from having belonged to Dr. 
 John Mackworth, Dean of Lincoln, temp. Henry VI., was next occupied by one Bar- 
 nard, when it was converted into an Inn of Chancery ; the arms of the house are those 
 of Mackworth, viz. party per pale, indented ermine and sables, a chevron, gules, fretted 
 or. The ancient Hall, maintained in the olden taste, is the smallest in the London 
 Inns : it is 36 feet long, 22 feet wide, and 30 feet high. 
 
 In Barnard's Inn, No. 2, second-floor chambers, lived the chemist, Mr. Peter Woulfe, F.K.S., 
 a believer in alchemy. (See ALCHEMISTS, p. 3.) 
 
 Westward, in Holborn, in DyerVbuildings (the site of some almshouses of the Dyers' 
 Company), lived William Roscoe when he published his edition of Pope's Works, with 
 notes and a life of the poet, 10 vols. 8vo, 1824.
 
 472 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 CLEMENT'S INN, Strand, is named from being near the church of St. Clement Danes, 
 and St. Clement's Well. It was a house for students of the law in the reign of 
 Edward IV. The Elizabethan iron gate, erected in 1852, bears the device of St. 
 Clement, an anchor without a stock, with a C couchant upon it; as also does the 
 Hall, built in 1715. In the small garden is a kneeling figure supporting a sun-dial; 
 it is painted black, and has hence been called a blackamoor. 
 
 Shakspeare has left us a picture from this Inn at his period : 
 
 " Shallow. I was once of Clement's Inn where I think they will talk of mad Shallow yet. 
 
 " Silence. You were called lusty Shallow then, cousin. 
 
 " Shallow. By the mass, I was called any thing ; and I would have done any thing indeed, and roundly 
 too. There was I and little John Doit of Staffordshire, and Black George Barnes of Staffordshire, and 
 Francis Pickbone and Will Squele, a Cotswold man ; you had not four such swinge-bucklers in all the 
 Inns of Court again." 
 
 Then Shallow tells of Sir John Falstaff breaking "Skogan's head at the court-gate, when he was 
 a crack not thus high ; and the very same day did I fight with one Sampson Stockfish, a fruiterer, be- 
 hind Gray's Inn." 
 
 " Shallow. Oh, Sir John, do you remember since we lay all night in the Windmill in St. George's 
 Fields? 
 
 " Falstqf. We have heard the chimes at midnight, Master Shallow. 
 
 " Shallow. I remember at Mile-End Green (when I lay at Clement's Inn), I was then " Sir Dagonett" 
 in Arthur's Show." 
 
 Then Falstaff says of Shallow : " I do remember him at Clement's Inn, like a man made after supper 
 of a cheese-paring." Henry IV. Part II. act iii. sc. 2. 
 
 Sir Edmund Sanders, Lord Chief-Justice of the Court of King's Bench from 1681 
 to 1683, was originally a poor boy, who used to beg scraps at Clement's Inn, where an 
 attorney's clerk taught him to earn some pence by hackney-writing. St. Clement's 
 Well, on the east of the Inn, and lower end of Clement's-lane, is mentioned by Fitz- 
 stephen : it is now covered, and has a pump placed in it. 
 
 CLIFFORD'S INN, behind St. Dunstan's Church, Fleet-street, is named from Robert 
 Clifford, to whom the property was granted by Edward II., and by his widow was 
 let to students of the law. The arms are those of Clifford, viz. cheeky, or and 
 azure, a fesse and bordure gules, bezante. Sir Edward Coke was admitted of this 
 Inn, 1571 ; and Selden, 1602. Harrison, the regicide, was an attorney's clerk here : 
 in the same office with him was John Bramston, cousin of Sir John Bramston, who 
 records: "When the warr begann, his fellow-clerke, Harrison, perswaded him to 
 take armes (this is that famous rogue Harrison, one of the King's judges), which he 
 did, that he might get to the King, which he soon did." Autobiography. 
 
 The Hall is modern Gothic, but has some old armorial glass. Here is an oaken case, 
 in which are the Society's rules written on vellum, with illuminated initials and the 
 arms of England, temp. Henry VIII. In this Hall Sir Matthew Hale and the judges 
 sat after the Great Fire of 1666, to adjudicate in disputes between landlords and 
 tenants, &c. The most authentic record of any settling of the Law Societies in the 
 reign of Edward III. is a demise, in the 18th year, from Lady Clifford apprentices de 
 Banco, " of that house near Fleet-street called Clifford's Inn." 
 
 A very peculiar dinner-custom is observed in the Hall, which is believed to be unique. The Society 
 consists of two distinct bodies "the Principal and Rules," and the junior members, or" Kentish Mess." 
 Each body has its own table : at the conclusion of the dinner, the chairman of the Kentish Mess, first 
 bowing to the Principal of the Inn, takes from the hands of the servitor four small rolls, or loaves of bread, 
 and, without saying a word, he dashes them three several times on the table; he then discharges them 
 to the other end of the table, from whence the bread is removed by a servant in attendance. Solemn 
 silence broken only by three impressive thumps upon the table prevails during this strange ceremony, 
 which takes the place of grace after meat in Clifford's Inn Hall; and concerning which, not even the 
 oldest member of the Society is able to give any explanation. Notes and Queries, 2nd S., No. 4. In 
 No. 7, ilr. Huckton, of Lichfield, says: "Cakes, sacred to Ceres, usually terminated the ancients' feasts; 
 and the rolls at Clifford's Inn may be thrown down as an offering to Ceres, legifera, as she first taught 
 mankind the use of laws" a remote probability. 
 
 In Clifford's Inn " lived Robert Pultock, author of Peter Wilkins, with its Flying 
 Women. Who he was is not known probably a barrister without practice ; but he 
 wrote an amiable and interesting book." Leigh Hunt. 
 
 Clifford's Inn has a terrace and raised garden, rearward of which is the new Record 
 Office, of late Gothic or Tudoresque style, somewhat of a German character, with 
 massive buttresses and Decorated windows. 
 
 FTJENIVAL'S INN, between Brook-street and Leather-lane, was originally the town 
 mansion of the Lords Furnival, and was an Inn of Chancery in the 9th of Henry IV. ; 
 was held under lease temp. Edward VI., and the inheritance in the then Lord Shrews-
 
 INNS OF CHANCERY. 473 
 
 bury was sold early in Elizabeth's reign to the Benchers of Lincoln's Inn, who leased 
 the property to the Society of Furnival's Inn. Sir Thomas More was Reader here for 
 three years. The original buildings were mostly taken down in Charles I.'s time, and 
 then re-edified with a lofty street-front of fine brickwork, decorated with pilasters. 
 The old Gothic Hall remained until 1818, when the entire Inn was taken down, and 
 rebuilt of brick by Peto in modern style, with stone columns and other accessories. In 
 the square is a statue of Peto. Thomas Fiddall, attorney of this Inn, in 1654 wrote a 
 Conveyancing Guide, published with his portrait. Furnival's Inn is let in chambers, 
 but is no longer an Inn of Court or Chancery. Part of its interior is occupied by a 
 well-appointed hotel. 
 
 "In the 32d of Henry VI., a tumult betwixt the gentlemen of innes of court and chancery and the 
 citizens of London happening in Fleet-street, in which some mischief was done, the principals of Clif- 
 foord's Inne, Furuivalle's Inne, and Barnard's Inne, were sent prisoners to Hartford Castle." Stow's 
 Annals. 
 
 LYON'S INK, Strand, between Holywell-street and Wych-street, was originally a 
 guest-inn or hostelry, held at the sign of the Lyon, and purchased by gentlemen, pro- 
 fessors and students in the law, in the reign of King Henry VIII., and converted 
 to an Inn of Chancery. Hatton describes the Inn, in 1708, as follows : 
 
 Lyon's Inn, an Inn of Chancery, situate on the Sh. side of Witch Str. It has been such an Inn 
 since Anno 1420, or sooner. It is governed by a Treasurer and 12 Ancients ; those of this House are 3 
 weeks in Michaelmas Term, other Terms 2 in Commons ; and pay 5s. for the Beading Weeks, for others 
 2s. 6d. Here are Mootings once in 4 terms, and they sell their chambers for 1 or 2 Lives. Their 
 Armorial Ensigns are Chequy Or and Azure, a Lyon Rampant Sable. They have a handsome Hall, 
 built in the year 1700. 
 
 Herbert, in his Antiquities of the Inns of Court and Chancery, the materials for 
 which he mostly derived from Dugdale's Origines Juridiciales, says : " It (Lyon's 
 Inn) is known to be a place of considerable antiquity from the old books of the 
 stewards' accounts, which contain entries made in the time of King Henry V. How 
 long before that period it was an Inn of Chancery is uncertain." Sir Edward Coke, 
 the year after his call to the Bar in 1579, was appointed Reader at Lyon's Inn, where 
 his learned lectures brought him crowds of clients ; this being the start of our great 
 constitutional lawyer. 
 
 The whole of the Inn was taken down in 1863 ; and a sketch of certain of its late 
 tenants will be found in Walks and Talks about London, 1865. In chambers at the 
 south-east corner of the Inn lived the gambler, William Weare, who was murdered by 
 John Thurtell and others, at Elstree, in Hertfordshire, as commemorated in a ballad 
 of the time, attributed to Theodore Hook : 
 
 " They cut his throat from ear to ear, 
 
 His brains they battered in : 
 His name was Mr. William Weare, 
 He dwelt in Lyon's Inn." 
 
 He left his chambers on the afternoon of October 24, 1823, for Elstree, whence he 
 never returned alive. Lyon's Inn Hall bore the date 1700, and a lion sculptured in its 
 pediments. The Inn formerly had its sun-dial, and a few trees. Here lived Philip 
 Absolon, who, in conjunction with E. W. Brayley, wrote a History of Westminster 
 Abbey. The place had long ceased to be exclusively tenanted by lawyers. 
 
 NEW INN, Wych-street, adjoins Clement's Inn : the Hall and other buildings are 
 modern. On the site, about 1485, was a guest inn, or hostelry, with the sign of the 
 Virgin Mary, and thence called Our Lady's Inn. It was purchased or hired by Sir 
 John Fineux, Chief Justice of the King's Bench, in the reign of Edward IV., at Gl. 
 per annum, for the law-students of St. George's Inn, in St. George's-lane, Little Old 
 Bailey ; here also the students of the Strand Inn nestled, after they were routed from 
 thence in the reign of Edward VI. by the Duke of Somerset. The armorial ensigns 
 of New Inn are, vert, a flower-pot argent. Sir Thomas More studied here in the 
 reign of Henry VII., before he entered himself of Lincoln's Inn ; and in after-life he 
 spoke of " New Inn fare, wherewith many an honest man is well contented." Against 
 the Hall is a large vertical sun-dial ; motto, " Time and tide tarry for no man." 
 
 SEEJEANTS' INN, CHANCESY-LANE. There were originally three Inns provided for 
 the reception of the Judges and such as had attained to the dignity of the coif viz.,
 
 474 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 first, Scroop's Inn or Serjeants' Place, opposite St. Andrew's Church, Holborn, now long 
 deserted by the Serjeants ; secondly, Serjeants' Inn, Fleet-street, which was held by lease 
 under the Dean and Chapter of York, and is now deserted as an inn for Serjeants ; and 
 thirdly, Serjeants' Inn, Chancery -lane, the only place that can with propriety be at present 
 called Serjeants' Inn. Scroop's Inn belonged to John Lord Scroop, and was afterwards 
 known as Scroop's-court. After his death it was let out to some Serjeants, who adopted it 
 as their place, whence it was called Serjeants' Inn in Holborn. After they disused it, 
 the site was used for tenements and gardens. The Serjeants about the beginning of 
 the reign of Henry VI., and not before, resorted to the Fleet-street Inn, which bad a 
 very fine chapel and hall and a stately court of tall brick buildings. It likewise 
 retained a steward, a master cook, a chief butler, with other attendants and servants, 
 and a porter. The old Inn in Holborn having been sold, and the Fleet-street Inn 
 having become dilapidated, the Serjeants were quite ready to entirely emigrate to Chan- 
 cery-lane, the third and chief Inn to which one need invite attention. It bore once 
 the name of " Faryndon Inn," and it was known as early as the 17 Richard II., when 
 the inheritance belonged (and has done since) to the Bishop of Ely and his suc- 
 cessors. In the " accompt" of the Bishop's bailiff 12 Henry IV., it was called " Faryn- 
 don Inne," and it was stated " that the serjeants-at-law had lodgings there." In 1416, 
 7 Henry V., the whole house was demised to the judges and others learned in the law. 
 The freehold, after having passed through various hands, came to be held for three 
 lives by Sir Anthony Ashley, Knight, under whom the judges and Serjeants continued 
 to rent it. Eventually the Serjeants negotiated with the Bishop of Ely for the purchase 
 of the fee simple of the property, and the same was ultimately vested in the Society by 
 an Act of Parliament, creating the Society of Serjeants' Inn, Chancery-lane, for the 
 purpose, a Corporation, upon the annual payment for ever of a fee farm rent to the 
 Bishop and his successors. The officers belonging to this Inn are similar to those in 
 Fleet-street namely, a steward, a master cook, a chief butler, and their servants, and a 
 porter. In 1837-8 the Inn was rebuilt (under the auspices of Serjeant Adams, the 
 then treasurer) by Sir Robert Smirke, R.A., except the old dining-hall of the Society, 
 which was then fitted up as a court for Exchequer equity sittings, but is now used as 
 the state dining-room of the Serjeants, including the common law judges, who are 
 always serjeants-at-law. The handsomest room is, however, the private dining-room, 
 which contains one of the finest collections of legal portraits in the kingdom, including 
 those of Sir Edward Coke, by Cornelius Jansen ; of Lord Mansfield, Lord King, Sir 
 Francis Buller, Chief Justice Tindal, Lords Eldon, Denman, and Lyndhurst, all by 
 painters of note. The windows (containing the armorial ensigns of judges and 
 Serjeants) are finely executed. The chambers where the judges of the common law sit 
 to hear summonses and other private matters are in this Inn. The arms of Serjeants' 
 Inn are, or, a stork ppr. 
 
 This Serjeants' Inn is the exclusive property of the serjeants-at-law, or Servientes ad 
 Legem, who are the highest degree in the common law. The serjeantcy-at-law, more- 
 over, is somewhat of a title or dignity as well as a degree, being created by the Queen's 
 writ. In his armorial ensigns, the serjeant bears a helmet open and front face, like 
 that of a knight, and not with the vizor down as an esquire's is. He, in a knightly 
 way, gives, on his appointment, gold rings to the Queen, the Lord Chancellor, and to 
 his own legal friends. The serjeants-at-law form a brotherhood to which the judges of 
 the Common Law Courts at Westminster must belong. For this reason, as being of 
 the same body, the judges of the Common Law Courts at Westminster invariably 
 address a serjeant as " Brother ;" and they never apply the term to any other counsel. 
 The serjeants are a body incorporated by Act of Parliament. The robes of the ser- 
 jeant vary in colour on particular days ; and peculiar to him is " the coif," or circular 
 black patch on the top of his wig. By that mark, peculiar to his order, the serjeant- 
 at-law may always be recognised in court. The serjeant, on joining Serjeants' 
 Inn, quits entirely the Inn of Court to which he, as a student and barrister, be- 
 longed. 
 
 At some of the Inns of Court, if the new-made serjeant leaves the Inn in term-time, 
 the following ceremony occurs : after giving a breakfast to the benchers of the Inn in their 
 council chamber, the new serjeant proceeds to the banqueting-hall, and is there presented
 
 ISLE OF DOGS. 475 
 
 by the treasurer with a silver pnrse containing ten guineas, as a retaining fee for any 
 occasion on which the Society may in future require his services. A bell is then rung 
 as a warning that he has ceased to be a member of the Inn.* 
 
 SERJEANTS' INK, FLEET-STREET. This other, but obsolete Inn, in Fleet-street, 
 already described, still bears the name of SERJEANTS' INN, and this is liable to 
 be mistaken for the now only real Serjeants' Inn, in Chancery-lane. The Fleet-street 
 Inn was destroyed in the Great Fire, was rebuilt in 1670, and again rebuilt, as we 
 now see it, with a handsome stone-fronted edifice, designed by Adam, the architect. 
 This Inn is now let in private chambers to any one who likes to rent them. 
 
 STAPLE INN, Holborn, nearly opposite Gray's-inn-lane, is traditionally named from 
 having been the inn or hostel of the Merchants of the (Wool) Staple, whither it was 
 removed from Westminster by Richard II. in 1378. It became an Inn of Chancery 
 temp. Henry V. ; and the inheritance of it was granted 20th Henry VIII. to the 
 Society of Gray's Inn. The Holborn front is of the time of James I., and one of the 
 oldest existing specimens of our metropolitan street-architecture. The Hall is of a later 
 date, has a clock-turret, and had originally an open timber roof : some of the armorial 
 window-glass is of date 1500 ; there are a few portraits, and at the upper end is the 
 wool-sack, the arms of the Inn ; and upon brackets are casts of the twelve Caesars. In 
 the garden adjoining was a luxuriant fig-tree which nearly covered the south side of 
 the Hall. Upon a terrace opposite are the offices of the Taxing Masters in Chancery, 
 completed in 1843, Wigg and Pownall, architects ; in the purest style of the reign of 
 James I., with frontispiece, arched entrances, and semicircular oriels, finely effective : 
 the open-work parapet of the terrace, and the lodge and gate leading to Southampton- 
 buildings, are very picturesque. 
 
 Dr. Johnson lived in Staple Inn in 1759 : in a note to Miss Porter, dated March 23, he informs her 
 that "he had on that day removed from Gough-square, where he had resided ten years, into chambers 
 at Staple Inn ;" here he wrote his Idler, seated in a three-legged chair, so scantily were his chambers 
 furnished. In 1760, Johnson removed to Gray's Inn. Isaac Reed lived at No. 11, Staple Inn. 
 
 STRAND INN, or CHESTER INN from its being near the Bishop of Chester's house, 
 was taken down temp. Edward VI., by the Duke of Somerset for building his palace ; 
 it occupied part of the site of the present Somerset House. Occleve, the pupil of 
 Chaucer, in the reign of Henry V., is said to have studied the law at " Chestre's 
 Inn." 
 
 STMOND'S INN, Chancery-lane, though named from a gentleman of the parish who 
 died in 1621, is stated to be the only portion retained by the Bishops of Chichester of 
 their property in Chancery -lane, where they formerly had a palace ; and here are 
 Bishop's-court and Chichester-rents. 
 
 THAVIE'S INN, between Nos. 56 and 57, Holborn-hill, was originally the dwelling of 
 John Thavie, of the Armourers' Company, who let the house temp. Edward III. to 
 apprentices to the law : it was subsequently purchased as an Inn of Chancery by the 
 benchers of Lincoln's Inn, by whom it was sold in 1771 ; destroyed by fire, and re- 
 built as a private court. In the adjoining church of St. Andrew is a monument to 
 John Thavie, who, in 1348, " left a considerable estate towards the support of this fabrick 
 for ever," from which property the parish now derive an annual income of 1300Z. 
 
 ISLE OF DOGS (THE), 
 
 APART of Poplar Marsh, lying within the bold curve of the Thames between 
 Blackwall and Limehouse, was originally a peninsula ; in a Map drawn in 1588 
 by Robert Adams, engraved in 1738, this name is applied to an islet in the Thames, 
 still in part existing, at the south-west corner of the peninsula, and from this spot the 
 name appears to have extended to the entire marsh. (Notes and Queries, No. 203.) 
 In 1799-1800, a canal was cut through the isthmus by the Corporation of London, to 
 
 * Nearly opposite Serjeants' Inn, Chancery-lane, were two houses, date 1611, taken down in 1853. 
 The richly-carved and picturesque house at the south-west corner, in Fleet-street (often engraved), was 
 taken down for widening the lane in 1799.
 
 476 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 save ships the long passage round the Isle ; but since sold to the West India Dock 
 Company, and now a timber-dock. Here Togodumnus, brother of Caractacus, is said 
 to have been killed in a battle with the Romans under Plautius, A.D. 46. Traditionally, 
 it was named from the hounds of Edward III. b-jing kept there, for contiguity to 
 Waltham and other royal forests in Essex. Again, Isle of Dogs is held to be cor- 
 rupted from Isle of Ducks, from the wildfowl u^on it. Here (says Lysons) stood the 
 chapel of St. Mary, mentioned in a will of the fifteenth century, " perhaps an hermitage 
 founded for saying masses for the souls of mariners." The remains of the chapel 
 existed to a very late date. Pepys speaks of it as " the unlucky Isle of Doggs." He 
 also speaks of a ferry in the Isle of Dogs, which is named as a horse-ferry by Norden 
 in the Speculum Britannia, 1592 (MS.). This ferry is still used. The ground is 
 very rich, and in Strype's time oxen fed here sold for 34. apiece : the grass was long 
 prized for distempered cattle. The island is a pleistocene drift or diluvial deposit, in 
 which has been found a subterranean forest of elm, oak, and fir trees, eight feet below 
 the grass, and lying from south-east to north-west; some of the elms were three feet four 
 inches in diameter, accompanied by human bones and recent shells, but no metals or 
 traces of civilization : the marsh is now enclosed by a pile and brick embankment. 
 Here Captain Brown, R.N"., established his works for the manufacture of iron suspen- 
 sion-bridges and iron cables : in 1813, he built here a suspension-bridge for foot- 
 passengers, weighing only 38 cwt., but carts and carriages passed safely over it ; the 
 span was 100 feet. Captain Brown also constructed the chain-pier at Brighton, in 
 1822-3. About this time the Isle of Dogs began to be thickly inhabited : here is 
 St. Edmund's Roman Catholic Chapel. The late Alderman Cubitt built here a large 
 number of houses, named Cubitt-town, and a Gothic church. The Isle is partly covered 
 i with stone-wharves, iron ship-building and chemical works, &c. Adjoining are the 
 dockyards of the Wigrams and Greens, formerly Perry's, mentioned by Pepys in 
 1660-G1 : the picturesque old masting-house is 120 feet high. Near the principal 
 entrance to the West India Docks is a bronze statue (by Westmacott) of Mr. Milligan, 
 by whom the Docks were begun and principally completed. (See MILLWAIL.) 
 
 The working men of the Isle of Dogs number some 15,000, engaged in the numerous 
 factories and shipyards ; for whose recreation has been formed a Free Library, to 
 provide them with amusement for evenings too often spent in dissipation. 
 
 ISLINGTON, 
 
 /CALLED also Iseldon, Yseldon, Eyseldon, Isendune, and Isondon, and of all the vil- 
 v lages near London alone bearing a British name, was originally two miles distant 
 north of the town, to which it is now united. Iseldon is conjectured to signify the 
 lower fort, or station ; and as there was undoubtedly a Roman camp at Highbury, this 
 name may have been given to the camp which a few years since was visible in the field 
 beside Barnsbury Park. Iseldon, in Domesday Book, possesses nearly 1000 acres of 
 arable land alone; and so well cleared was the property, that there only remained 
 "pannage for 60 hogs" (woodlands) adjoining Horusey. 
 
 The great benefactor of Islington was Richard de Cloudesley, who by will, dated 1517, among other 
 bequests to the parish, lett to poor men gowns with the names otjesu and Maria upon them ; also 40. 
 for repairing and amending the causeway between his house and Islington Church ; and a load of 
 straw to be laid upon his grave : but superstition would not let Cloudesley's " bodie rest until certain 
 exorcises, at dede of night," had quieted him, with " diuers diuine exorcises at torchlight." The name 
 of this benefactor is preserved in Cloudesley Square and Terrace. Algernon Percy, Earl of Northum- 
 berland, is said to have resided at Newington Green, where Henry Vill. was a frequent sisitor, pro- 
 bably on his hawking excursions ; and one of his proclamations, in 1516, coin man is that " the g* ics of 
 hare, partridge, pheasant, and heron, be preserved for his owne disport and pastime ; that is to saye, 
 from his palace of Westminster to St. Gyles in the Fields, and from thence to Islington, to our Lady of 
 the Oke, to Highgate, to Hornsey Parke, to Hamsted Heath," &c. 
 
 Islington retained a few of its Elizabethan houses to our time, and its rich dairies 
 are of like antiquity : in the entertainment given to Queen Elizabeth at Keuilworth 
 Castle, in 1575, the Squier Minstrel of Middlesex glorifies Islington with the motto, 
 " Lac caseus in/ans ;" and it is still noted for its cow-keepers. It was once as famous 
 for its cheese-cakes as Chelsea for its buns; and among its other notabilities were cus- 
 tards and stewed " pruans," its mineral spa, and its ducking-ponds Ball's Pond dating
 
 ISLINGTON. 477 
 
 from the time of Charles I. At the lower end of Islington, in 1611, were eight inns, 
 principally supported by summer visitors : 
 
 " Hogsdone, Islington, and Tothnam Court, 
 For cakes and creame had then no small resort." 
 
 Wither's Britain's Remembrancer, 1628. 
 
 Cowley, in his poem " Of Solitude," points to Islington of the seventeenth century, 
 in thus apostrophizing "the monster London" : 
 
 " Let but thy wicked men from out thee go, 
 
 And all the fools that crowd thee so, 
 Ev'n thou, who dost thy millions boast, 
 A village less than Islington will grow, 
 A solitude almost." 
 
 Lord Macaulay, in like vein, says, " Islington was (temp. Charles I.) almost a solitude, 
 and poets loved to contrast its silence and repose with the din and turmoil of the mon- 
 ster London." History of England, vol. i. pp. 349-350. 
 
 Islington parish includes Upper and Lower Holloway, three sides of Newington- 
 green, and part of Kingsland; the southern portion of the village being in the parish 
 of St. James, Clerkenwell. Besides St. Mary's, the mother-church, here are a large 
 church in Lower Holloway ; St. John's, Upper Holloway ; St. Paul's, Ball's Pond ; 
 and Trinity, Cloudesley -square all three designed by Barry, R.A., 1828-9, architect, 
 also of St. Peter's, in 1835 ; Christchurch, Highbury, designed by Allom, in 1849, has 
 a picturesque tower and spire, and interior of novel plan. There are also other district 
 churches ; St. John the Evangelist's (Roman Catholic), with lofty gable and flanking 
 towers ; besides numerous chapels for every shade of dissent : Claremont Chapel, built 
 in 1820, was named in memory of the lamented Princess Charlotte. 
 
 Canonbury, about half a mile north-east of the old church, was once the country- 
 house of the Prior of the Canons of St. Bartholomew : the tower is described at p. 78. 
 
 An old Islingtonian has favoured us with these details of the New River : Act of Parliament passed 
 1606 ; begun Feb. 20, 1608 ; the labourers received 2*. 6d. per day ; stopped at Enfield for want of 
 funds; completed in five years; opened with great ceremony at the Head, Sadler's Wells, Michaelmas 
 Day, 1613, before the Lord Mayor and Lord Mayor Elect, Sir Thomas Myddelton, brother of Sir Hugh ; 
 King James, and Sir Hugh Myddelton. 
 
 The New River enters Islington by Stoke Newington, and passing onward, beneath 
 Highbury, to the east of Islington, ingulfs itself under the road, in a subterraneous 
 channel of 300 yards ; again rises in Colebrook-row, and still coasting the southern 
 side of Islington, reaches its termination at the New River Head, Sadler's Wells. 
 From this vast circular basin the water is conveyed by sluices into large brick cisterns, 
 and hence by mains and riders to all parts of London. (See NEW RIYEE.) Upon the 
 Green, now planted and inclosed as a garden, is a portrait-statue in stone of Sir Hugh 
 Myddelton, with a drinking fountain, presented by Sir Morton Peto, Bart., M.P. 
 
 The centre of Islington is perforated by the Regent's Canal brick tunnel, com- 
 mencing westward of White Conduit House, and terminating below Colebrook-row. 
 This tunnel is 17 feet wide, 900 yards long, and 18 feet high, including 7 feet 6 inches 
 depth of water. 
 
 Highbury was originally a summer camp of the Romans, and adjoined the Er- 
 mine-street. The manor was given to the Priory of St. John of Jerusalem between 
 1271 and 1286, and was the Lord Prior's country residence, destroyed by Jack Straw 
 in 1371. The site is now occupied by Highbury House, where is a lofty observatory, 
 partly built by John Smeaton, F.R.S. 
 
 Among the more eminent inhabitants of Islington were John Bagford, the antiquary and book and 
 print collector ; William Collins, whilst under mental infirmity, was visited here by Dr. Johnson; 
 Alexander Cruden, compiler of the Concordance, died here in 1770; Oliver Goldsmith, and Ephraim 
 Chambers the cyclopaedist, lodged in Canonbury tower; Quick, the comedian, in Hornsey-row; John 
 Nichols, P.S.A., editor of the Gentleman's Magazine, lived in Highbury-place; where Richard Percival, 
 F.S.A., formed a matchless collection of drawings and prints of Islington; William Knight, F.8.A., of 
 Canonbury, a collection of angling-books and missals. William Upcott, F.S.A., the bibliographer and 
 autograph-collector, died here in 1845; and Charles Lamb retired from his clerkship hi the India House 
 to a cottage in Colebrook-row, in 1825 : " the New River (rather elderly by this time) runs (if a mode- 
 rate walking pace can be so termed) close to the foot of the house." (C. Lamb.) The house remains, but 
 has been much altered ; and the New River has been covered over. Hard by was " Starvation Farm," 
 where the owner, a foreign baron, kept his emaciated stock. 
 
 In July, 1864, was dispersed by auction the valuable Library of the late Mr. George Daniel, of 18, 
 Canonbury-square, together with his collection of Original Drawings and Engraved Portraits of Actors 
 and Actresses, Water-colour Drawings, Pottery and Porcelain, &c. The Library included the i'irst
 
 478 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Four Folios of Shakspeare's Works, the First Folio producing 682 guineas: the Quarto Plays com- 
 prised several first editions, 3001. each and upwards ; Sonnets, one of the only two perfect copies known, 
 with the same imprint, 215 guineas ; and a choice edition of the Poems ; also, a collection ot Black-letter 
 Ballads, 1559-1597, 7501. A great number of the Books were unique, or nearly so, and included Garlands, 
 Jests, Drolleries, and Songs : two Missals of high class; Autograph Letters, Drawings, and Engravings, 
 illustrative of the lives and times of Burns, Chatterton, Cowper, Goldsmith, Gray, Johnson, Kemble, 
 Pope, &c. The sale occupied ten. days. 
 
 Among the old inns and public -houses were near the church, the Pied Bull, 
 popularly a villa of Sir Walter Raleigh's ; in Lower-street, the Crown, apparently of 
 the reign of Henry VII., and the Queen's Head, a half-timbered Elizabethan house ; 
 near the Green, the Duke's Head, kept by Topham, " the Strong Man of Islington ;" 
 in Frog-lane, the Barley-mow, where George Morland painted; at the Old Parr's 
 Head, in Upper-street, Henderson the tragedian first acted; White Conduit House 
 has been twice rebuilt within our recollection; and Highbury Barn, though now a 
 showy tavern, nominally recals its rural origin; the Three Hats, near the turnpike, 
 was taken down in 1839 ; and the Angel was originally a galleried inn. Timber 
 gables and rudely-carved brackets are occasionally to be seen on Islington house-fronts 
 bearing old dates ; also here and there an old " house of entertainment," which, with 
 the little remaining of " the Green," reminds one of Islington milage. 
 
 Islington abounds with chalybeate springs, resembling the Tunbridge Wells water ; 
 one of which was rediscovered in 1683, in the garden of Sadler's music-house, subse- 
 quently Sadler's Wells Theatre; at the Sir Hugh Myddelton's Head tavern was 
 formerly a conversation-picture with twenty-eight portraits of the Sadler's Wells Club. 
 In Spa-Fields, about sixty years ago, was held " Gooseberry Fair," where the stalls of 
 Gooseberry-fool vied with the " threepenny tea-booths " and the beer at " my Lord 
 Cobham's Head." 
 
 The following amusing Curiosities of Islington Taverns are selected and abridged 
 from Pinks's History of ClerJcenwell, 1865 : 
 
 Less than half a century ago, the Old Bed Lion Tavern, in St. John-street-road, the existence of 
 which dates as far back as 1415, stood almost alone; it is shown in the centre distance of Hogarth's 
 print of Evening. Several eminent persons frequented this house : among others, Thomson, the author 
 of The Seasons ; Dr. Johnson, and Oliver Goldsmith. In a room here Thomas Paine wrote his infamous 
 book, The Bights of Man, which Burke and Bishop Watson demolished. The parlour is hung with 
 choice impressions of Hogarth's plates. The house has been almost rebuilt. 
 
 Opposite the Bed Lion, and surrounded by pens for holding cattle on their way to Smithfield, was 
 an old building called " Goose Farm ;" it was let in suites of rooms: here lived Cawse, the painter; 
 and in another suite, the mother and sister of Charles and Thomas Dibdin the mother, a short, squab 
 figure, came on among villagers and mobs at Sadler's Wells Theatre, but, failing to get engaged, she 
 died in Clerkenwell Poorhouse. Vincent de Cleve, nicknamed Polly de Cleve, for his prying qualities, 
 who was treasurer of Sadler's Wells for many years, occupied the second-floor rooms above the Dibdins. 
 " Goose Yard," on the west of the road, serves to determine the site of the old farmhouse. 
 
 The public-house facing the iron gates leading to the Sadler's Wells Theatre, with the sign of The 
 Clown, in honour of Grimaldi, who frequented the house, was, in his day, known as the King of 
 Prussia, prior to which its sign had been that of the Queen of Hungary. It is to this tavern, or rather 
 to an older one upon the same site, that Goldsmith alludes in his Essay on the Versatility of Popular 
 Favour. " An alehouse-keeper," says he, " near Islington, who had long lived at the sign of The 
 French King, upon the commencement of the late war with France, pulled down his own sign, and put 
 up that of the Queen of Hungary. Under the influence of her red face and golden sceptre, he con- 
 tinued to sell ale till she was no longer the favourite of his customers; he changed her, therefore, some 
 time ago for the King of Pruisia, which may probably be changed in turn for the man that shall be set 
 up for vulgar admiration." The oldest sign by which this house was distinguished was that of The 
 Turk's Head. 
 
 At The Golden Sail, near Sadler's Wells, was sold by auction, in 1732, "the valuable curiosities, 
 living creatures, &c., collected by the ingenious Mons. Boyle, of Islington," including " a most strange 
 living creature, bearing a near resemblance of the human shape; he can utter some few sentences and 
 give pertinent answers to many questions. Here is likewise an Oriental oyster-shell of a prodigious 
 weight and size ; it measures from one extreme part to the other above three feet two inches over. The 
 other curiosity is called the Philosopher's Stone, and is about the size of a pullet's egg, the colour of it 
 is blue, and more beautiful than that of the Ultramarine, which, together with being finely polished, is 
 a most delightful entertainment to the eye. This unparalleled curiosity was clandestinely stolen out of 
 the late Great Mogul's closet; this irreparable loss had so great an effect upon him, that in a few 
 months after he pined himself to death : there is a peculiar virtue in this precious stone, that princi- 
 pally relates to the Fair Sex, and will effectually signify, in the variation of its colour, by touching it, 
 whether any of them have lost their virginity." 
 
 At the Rising Sun, in the Islington-road," in Mist's Journal, Feb. 9, 1726, we read that for the ensu- 
 ing Shrove Tuesday " will be a fine hog barbygu'd i.e., roasted whole with spice, and basted with 
 Madeira wine, at the house where the ox was roasted whole at Christmas last." 
 
 In the Islington-road, too, near to Sadler's Wells, was Stokes's Amphitheatre, a low place, though 
 resorted to by the nobility and gentry. It was devoted to bull and bear baiting, dog-fighting, boxing, 
 and sword-fighting; and in these terrible encounters, with naked swords, not blunted, women engaged 
 each other to " a trial of skill :" they fought a la mode, in close-fitting jackets, short petticoats, Hoi-
 
 JAMES-STREET, WESTMINSTER. 479 
 
 land drawers, white thread stockings, and pumps ; the stakes were from 101. to 201. Here we read of a 
 day's diversion a mad bull, dressed up with fireworks, to be baited; cudgel-playing for a silver cup, 
 wrestling for a pair of leather breeches, &c. ; a noble, large, and savage incomparable Russian bear, 
 baited to death by dogs; a bull, Illuminated with fireworks, turned loose; eating farthing pies, and 
 drinking hali'-a-gallon of October beer in less than eight minutes, &c. 
 
 The increase of population in Islington has been enormous. By the census of 1851 
 it stood at 95,154 : by that of 1861 it is seen to be 156,000, showing an increase in 
 ten years of 60,846 persons. This is not entirely owing to the new buildings which 
 have been erected there, great as the number of them is : the decadence of some of the 
 streets must also be taken into account, many houses in which, formerly occupied by one 
 family in each, now contain several. To meet these requirements at Islington have 
 been erected, with a portion of the funds munificently presented by an American 
 merchant, Mr. Peabody, to trustees for the poor of London, four blocks of buildings, to 
 comprise in all 155 tenements, with ample accommodation for upwards of 650 persons. 
 The whole cost of these buildings, exclusive of the sum paid for the land, will amount, 
 when the accounts shall have been closed, to 31,6902. They are appropriately named 
 Peal o d y-square. 
 
 Solloivay was once famous for its cheese-cakes, which, within recollection, were 
 cried through London streets by men on horseback. Du Val's-lane was tradition- 
 ally the scene of the exploits of Du Val, the highwayman, executed at Tyburn Jan. 21, 
 1690, " to the great grief of the women." Within memory, the lane was so infested 
 with highwaymen, that few people would venture to peep into it, even at mid-day : in 
 1831 it was lighted with gas. (J, T. Smith.) At Lower Holloway, Mrs. Foster, 
 grand-daughter of Milton, kept a chandler's-shop for several years ; she died in poverty 
 at Islington, May 9, 1754, when the family of Milton became extinct. 
 
 Between Islington and Hoxton was built in 1786, a curious windmill for grinding 
 white-lead, worked by five flyers, at right angles to which projected a beam with 
 smaller shafts. In 1853 was built at the Rosemary Branch Gardens a Circus, to seat 
 five thousand persons. At Hoxton were the " Ivy Gardens" of Fairchild, who, dying 
 rich, left to the parish of St. Leonard, Shoreditch, 502. (increased to 1002. by the 
 parishioners), the interest to be devoted to a lecture on Whit-Tuesday in the parish- 
 church, " On the goodness of God as displayed in the Vegetable Creation." In Fairchild's 
 employ was William Bartlett, " a simpler," who died at the age of 102 years ; and his 
 son James, " a simpler," aged 80. 
 
 In the Lower-road was " the Islington Cattle Market," originated with a view to the 
 removal of the cattle-market from Smithfield, and established by Act of Parliament 
 in 1835 ; but it failed as a market, and has since been only used for the lairage of 
 cattle; it occupied fifteen acres of land, walled in. (See MABKETS.) 
 
 JAMES-STREET, WESTMINSTER, 
 
 FACING St. James's Park and Buckingham-gate, has been the abode of two dis- 
 tinguished literati. At No. 11 lived the poet Glover, whose song of " Hosier's 
 Ghost" roused the nation to a Spanish war, and will be read and remembered long 
 after his Leonidas is forgotten. At No. 6 died, December 31, 1826, William Gifford, 
 editor of the Quarterly Review from its commencement in 1809 to 1824 ; and working 
 editor of the Anti-Jacobin Review, writing the refutations and corrections of " the Lies," 
 " Mistakes," and " Corrections." Gifford also translated Juvenal, wrote the satires of 
 the Baviad and Mceviad; and edited Massinger, Ben Jonson, Ford, and Shirley. 
 
 On the west side of James-street stood Tart Hall, partly built in 1638, by N. Stone, 
 for Alathsea Countess of Arundel ; after whose death it became the property of her 
 second son William, the amiable Viscount Stafford, beheaded on Tower-hill, Dec. 29, 
 1680, upon " the perjured suborned evidence of the ever-infamous Oates, Dugdale, and 
 Tuberville." The gateway of Tart Hall was not opened after Lord Stafford had passed 
 under it for the last time. The second share of the Arundel Marbles was deposited 
 here, and produced at a sale in 1720, 88512. 19s. llfd. (Minutes, Soc. Antiquaries.) 
 Dr. Mead bought a bronze head of Homer for 1362. ; it is now in the British Museum, 
 catalogued as a head of Pindar. The Hall was taken down soon after the sale: 
 Wulpole told Pennant it was very large and venerable. According to Strype, it was
 
 480 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 part in the parish of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, and part in St. James's; on the garden- 
 wall, a boy was whipt annually to remember the parish bounds ; upon the site of the 
 wall was built Stafford-row : in one of the adjoining passages, Mrs. Abington, the 
 actress, had an incognito lodging, for card-parties. Sir Richard Phillips, in his Morning's 
 Walk from London to Kew, 1817, writes 
 
 At Pimlico the name of Stafford-row reminded me of the ancient distinction of Tart Hall, once the 
 rival in size and splendour of its more fortunate neighbour, Buckingham House, and long the deposi- 
 tory of the Arundelian Tablets and Statues. It faced the Park, on the present site of James-street ; its 
 garden-wall standing where Staflbrd-row is now built, and the extensive livery-stables being 1 once the 
 stables of its residents." 
 
 Dr. Rimbault believes Tart Hall was called so from its proximity to the Mulberry 
 Garden, which was famous for its tarts. It is so called in the inventory of " household 
 stuffs," &c., taken in 1641. (Sari MS., No. 6272) ; in Algernon Sydney's Letters to 
 Henry Savile ; in several documents in the State Paper Office, &c. (Notes and Queries, 
 2nd S. ; ix. p. 407.) 
 
 In the Harleian MS. we read of four pictures : 1. A Goundelowe. 2. A Mountcbanke. 3. A Brave. 
 4. " King Henry 7. his wife and children." " The Great Roome, or Hall," was situated " next to the 
 Banketing House." "My Lord's Room" was hanged with yellow and green taffetas. A closet had the 
 floor covered with a carpet of yellow leather. The roof of one of the rooms was decorated with a 
 " picture of the Fall of Phaeton." Mr. Arden's room was " hanged with Scotch plad." Among the 
 pictures named are Diana and Actseon, by Titian (now in the Bridgewater Gallery ?) ; Jacob's Travel- 
 ling, by Bassano (now at Hampton Court ?) ; A Martyrdom, by Tintoret ; The Nativity of Our Saviour, 
 by Honthorst. No statues are mentioned. The site is marked in Faithorne's Map of London, 1658. 
 Cunningham. 
 
 In James-street was the residence of Lord Milford, facing St. James's Park, and 
 first fitted up as the Stationery Office in 1820 : it was taken down on the removal of the 
 office to the new buildings in Prince's-street, Westminster. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S. 
 
 A LTHOUGH the Hospital dedicated to St. James is believed to have been founded 
 -* prior to the Norman Conquest, and was rebuilt as a palace in 1532, not two 
 centuries have elapsed since St. James's formed part of the parish of St. Martin's-in- 
 the-Fields, and occupied the furthest extremity of the western boundaries of West- 
 minster. " The Court of St. James's " dates from after the burning of Whitehall in 
 the reign of William IIL, when St. James's became the royal residence; the church 
 was consecrated in 1685, in honour of the reigning monarch, to St. James. 
 
 Hatton (1708) describes the parish as " all the houses and grounds comprehended 
 in a place heretofore called St. James's Fields, and the confines thereof, containing 
 about 3000 houses, and divided into seven wards." In the reign of Queen Anne it 
 had acquired the distinction of the Court quarter. 
 
 " The inhabitants of St. James's, notwithstanding they live under the same laws and speak the 
 same language, are a distinct people from those of Cheapside ; who are likewise removed from those of 
 the Temple on the one side, and those of Smithfield on the other, by several climates and degrees in 
 their way of thinking and conversing together." Addison, Spectator, No. 403, 1712. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S-STEEET, in 1670, was called " the Long Street," and is described by 
 Strype as beginning at the Palace of St. James's, and running up to the road against 
 Albemarle-buildings ; the best houses, at the upper end, having a terrace-walk before 
 them. Waller, the poet, lived on the west side from 1660 till 1687, when he died at 
 Beaconsfield ; Pope lodged " next door to y e Golden Ball, on y e second terras." 
 Gibbon, the historian, died Jan. 16, 1794, at No. 76, then Elmsley, the bookseller's, 
 who would not enter upon " the perilous adventure" of publishing the Decline and 
 Fall, by which the publishers have profited ten times the amount paid to the author 
 for his copyright. 
 
 Horace Walpole relates : " I was told a droll story of Gibbon the other day. One of those book- 
 sellers in Paternoster-row, who publish things in numbers, went to Gibbon's lodgings in St. James's- 
 strcet, sent up his name, and was admitted. ' Sir,' said he, ' I am now publishing a History of England, 
 done by several good hands ; I understand you have a knack at them there things, and should be glad 
 to give you every reasonable encouragement.' As soon as Gibbon had recovered the use of his legs and 
 tongue, which were petrified with surprise, he ran to the bell, and desired his servant to show this 
 encourager of learning downstairs." 
 
 Here was the Thatched House Tavern, originally a thatched house in St. James's
 
 ST. JAMES'S. 481 
 
 Fields. It was taken down in 1814 and 1863, having been for nearly two centuries 
 celebrated for its club meetings; and its large public room, wherein were hung the 
 Dilettanti pictures. Beneath the tavern front was a range of low-built shops, including 
 that of Rowland, or Rouland, the fashionable coiffeur of huile Macassar fame. 
 Through the tavern was a passage to the rear, where, in Catharine Wheel-alley, in 
 the last century, lived the widow Delany, some of whose fashionable friends then 
 resided in Dean-street, Soho. Upon part of the site has been built the Civil Service 
 Club-house, described at pp. 244, 245. Sheridan called St. James's-street the Campus 
 Martius of the beaux' cavalry. 
 
 Facing St. James's-street, upon the site of Albemarle-street, was Clarendon House, on the road 
 whither, on Dec. 6, 1670, between six and seven in the evening, the great Duke of Ormond was dragged 
 from his carriage by Blood and his accomplices, tied to one of them on horseback, and carried along 
 Piccadilly towards Tyburn, there to be hanged ; but the alarm being given at Clarendon House, the 
 servants followed and recovered his grace from a struggle in the mud with the man he was tied to, 
 and who, on regaining his horse, fired a pistol at the duke and escaped. Jn the Historian's Guide, 
 third edit. 1688, are stated to have been "six ruffians mounted and armed;" the duke's six footmen, 
 who usually walked beside his carriage, were absent when the attack was made. 
 
 BtTET (properly BEEEY) STEEET, on the east, is named from the ground-landlord 
 a half-pay officer temp. Charles I. : he died Nov. 1733, aged above 100 years. Swift 
 and Steele, Crabbe and Thomas Moore, occasionally lodged in Bury-street. Swift paid 
 for a first floor a dining-room and bed-chamber, eight shillings a week, " plaguy dear." 
 
 JEEMYN-STBEET, on the east side of St. James's-street, was named from Henry 
 Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans. Here, in 1665-81, lived the Duke of Marlborough, when 
 Colonel Churchill, at the west end, south side. Gray, the poet, lodged here, at the 
 east end. Sir Isaac Newton lived in this street before he removed to St. Martin's- 
 street, Leicester-square ; as did also William and John Hunter. East of St. James's 
 Church is the entrance-front of the Museum of Practical Geology, a lofty Italian 
 building by Pennethorne ; completed in 1850. (See MUSEUMS.) 
 
 In Jermyn-street, near St. James's Church, about 1713, lived Mrs. Howe and her husband, who was 
 absent from her seventeen years, as she supposed in Holland ; though, in fact, living disguised in a 
 mean lodging in Westminster. From Jermyn-street, Mrs. Howe removed to Brewer-street, Golden- 
 square ; Mr. Howe often visited at an opposite house, whence he saw his wife in her dining-room re- 
 ceiving company ; and for seven years he went every Sunday to St. James's Church, and there had a 
 view of his wife, but was not recognised by her. (See Dr. King's Anecdotes of his own time.) 
 
 KIXG-STBEET, leading to St. James's-square, has at the south-east corner the St. 
 James's Bazaar, described at p. 41. Here is the St. James's Theatre, designed by 
 Beazley for Braham the singer (it occupies the site of Nerot's Hotel, No. 19), which 
 cost Braham 80001. (See T HEATBES.) Nerot's was of the time of Charles II., and 
 had a carved staircase, and panels painted with the story of Apollo and Daphne. Next 
 are Willis's Rooms (see ALMACK'S, p. 4) ; and opposite are Christie and Manson's 
 (late Christie's) auction-rooms, celebrated for sales of pictures and articles of vertu. 
 (See an account of these sales in the Shilling Magazine, vol. i.) At No. 16, in 
 King-street, lodged Louis Napoleon, in a house which he pointed out to his Empress, 
 as he rode up St. James's-street, on their visit to Queen Victoria in 1855. There are 
 four streets in this neighbourhood named from King, Charles, and the Duke of York. 
 
 In King-street, St. James's, was born, May 4, 1740, Charlotte Smith, the poet and novelist ; and hero 
 she mostly resided with her father, Mr. N. Turner, from her twelfth to her fifteenth year, when she 
 married Mr. Richard Smith, a West India merchant, aged 21. 
 
 In St. James's-street (west side) Thomas Wirgman, goldsmith and silversmith, kept 
 shop, and after making a large fortune, squandered it as a regenerating philosopher a 
 Kantesian. He had tinted papers made especially for his books, one cf which, 400 pages, 
 cost him 2276L printing. He published a grammar of the five senses, and metaphysics 
 for children, and maintained that when his system was universally adopted in schools, 
 peace and harmony would be restored to the earth, and virtue would everywhere 
 replace crime. Sir Christopher Wren had a house in St. James's-street, where he 
 died, Feb. 25, 1723. Lord Byron lodged at No. 8, in 1811 ; Gillray, the caricaturist, 
 lodged at No. 24, Humphrey the printseller's, when, in 1815, he threw himself from 
 an upstairs window, and died in consequence. 
 
 Humphrey was the publisher of Gillray's caricatures, the copperplates of which were estimated, in 
 1815, to be worth 70001. After Humphrey's death his widow could raise only 1000Z. upon the plates; 
 subsequently, when offered by auction, they were bought in at 5COZ. ; and upon the widow's death, her 
 
 I I
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 executors, unable to dispose of the plates as engravings, sold them to Mr. H. G. Bohn, the publisher 
 as old copper, for as many pence as they were originally said to be worth pounds ; and sets are now to 
 be bought at one-fifth of the first cost. (See the Account, &c. by Wright and Evans, 1851.) 
 
 About 1708, Peyrault's, or Pero's " Bagnio," now Fenton's Hotel, was in high fashion. 
 At the south-west end was the St. James's Coffee-house (Whig), taken down in 1806: 
 it was the Foreign and Domestic News-house of the Tatter, and the " fountain head" 
 of the Spectator. Here, too, was the Tory house, Ozinda'sj and the Cocoa-tree, to 
 which belonged Gibbon and Lord Byron. 
 
 In St. James's-street are several Club-houses, already described (see pp. 241-260). 
 At White's is a pair of views by Canaletti : one, London Bridge, with the houses, from 
 Old Somerset House Gardens j and Westminster Bridge (just built), taken from the 
 water, off Cuper's Garden. 
 
 Next to Brooks's Club, in 1781, lived C. J. Fox. At No. 62 was Betty's fruit-shop, 
 famous in Horace Walpole's time. Mason has, in his Heroic Epistles 
 
 " And patriot Betty fix her fruit-shop here." 
 
 It was a famous place for gossip. Walpole says of a story much about, " I should 
 scruple repeating it, if Betty and the waiters at Arthur's did not talk of it publicly." 
 Again : " Would you know what officer's on guard in Betty's fruit-shop ?" 
 
 In Cleveland-row, extending from St. James's-street to the Stable-yard of the Palace, Theodore 
 Hook took a handsome house in 1827, which he furnished at the cost of 20001. or 30001. Then came 
 heavy embarrassments, in which he was assisted by the liberality of his publishers, Bentley and Col- 
 burn, and the sale of his share in the John Bull for 40001. While residing in Cleveland-row, Hook fell 
 in with the Rev. Mr. Barbara (Ingoldsby), who called one day. Haynes Bayly was then discussing a 
 devilled kidney. Hook introduced him, saying, " Barham Mr. Bayly there are several of the name : 
 this is not ' Old Bailey,' with whom you may one day become intimate, but the gentleman whom we call 
 'Butterfly Bayly' (in allusion to his song, 'I'd be a butterfly"'). "A misnomer, Hook," replied Bar- 
 ham ; " Mr. Bayly is not yet out of the Qrul." 
 
 ST. JAMES'S-PLACE, west side of St. James's-street, was built about 1694. Addison 
 lodged here in 1712. Here also lived Parnell, the poet; Mr. Secretary Craggs; 
 Bishop Kennett, the antiquary, who died here 1728 ; John Wilkes lived here in 1756 
 " in very elegant lodgings j" and Mrs. Robinson, the charming actress, lodged at 
 No. 13. Lady Hervey lived in a house built for her by Flitcroft, afterwards occupied by 
 the Earl of Moira (Marquis of Hastings). Spencer House, facing the Green Park, 
 was designed by Vardy ; the figures on the pediment are by M. H. Spong, a Dane. At 
 No. 25 lived Lord Guildford, who had his library lined with snake-wood from Ceylon, 
 of which island he was Governor : the next tenant was Sir Francis Burdett, who 
 expired here Jan. 23, 1844, of grief for the loss of his wife, who died thirteen days 
 previously. At No. 22, built by James Wyatt, R.A., lived, from 1808, until his death 
 in 1855, Samuel Rogers, the poet : here Sheridan, Lord Byron, Sir James Mackintosh, 
 " Conversation" Sharp, and Thomas Moore, were often guests. 
 
 Mr. Eogers' choice collection of pictures, sculpture, Etruscan vases, antique bronzes, and literary 
 
 reggio) ; large Landscape (Claude) ; Christ on the Mount of Olives (Raphael). Also, Christ disputing 
 with the Doctors (Mazzolina di Ferrara), and the Coronation of the Virgin (A. Caracci), from the Aldo- 
 brandini Palace ; Triumphal Procession (Rubens), after Andrea Mantegna; St. Joseph and the Infaut 
 Saviour (Murillo) ; Landscapes by Rubens and Domenichino, Gainsborough, and R.Wilson; Virgin 
 and Child (Raphael) ; Knight in Armour (Giorgione) ; Allegory, and Forest Scene, sunset (Rembrandt) ; 
 Virgin and Child, with six Saints (L. Caracci); a Mill, a small octagon (Claude); Head of Christ 
 erowncd with thorns (Guido) ; Virgin and Child (Van Eyck) ; two large compositions (N. Ppussin) ; 
 Sketch for Mary Magdalen anointing the feet of the Saviour (P. Veronese) ; Sketch for the Miracle of 
 St. Mark (Tintoretto) ; Study for the Apotheosis of Charles V. (Titian) ; Portrait of Himself (Rem- 
 brandt) ; Infant Don Balthazar on horseback (Velasquez) ; the Evils of War (Rubens) ; Virgin and 
 Child, a small miniature (Hemmelinck) ; three original Drawings (Raphael) ; black chalk Study 
 (Michael Angelo) ; Puck, the Strawberry Girl, the Sleeping Girl, Girl with Bird, Cupid and Psyche, and 
 the Painter's House at Richmond (Sir Joshua Reynolds); Napoleon upon a rock at St. Helena (Hay- 
 don) ; and twelve Elizabethan miniatures. The paintings were lighted by lamps with reflectors. Among 
 the sculptures were : Cupid pouting and Psyche couching, and Michael Angelo and Raphael, statuettes 
 by Flaxman. Here also were seven pictures by Stothard (including a copy of the Canterbury Pilgrims), 
 and a cabinet with his designs. Among the autographs was the original assignment of Dryden's Virgil 
 to Tonson, witnessed by Congreve. Milton's agreement with Symons for Paradise Lost, long possessed 
 by Mr. Rogers, was presented by him to the British Museum in 1852. 
 
 This collection was dispersed by auction, after the death of Mr. Rogers, 18th of
 
 JEWS IN LONDON. 483 
 
 December, 1855, in his 93rd year, at his house in St. James's-place, surrounded by the 
 works of art which his fine taste had brought about him. 
 
 (See also PALACES, ST. JAMES'S j and SQUAEES, ST. JAMES'S.) 
 
 JEWS IN LONDON. 
 
 7T1HE Jews were settled in England in the Saxon period, A.D, 750. In 1189, great 
 J- numbers were massacred on the coronation-day of Eichard I., when they lived in 
 the Jewries, extending along both sides of the present Gresham-street to Basinghall- 
 street, and Old Jewry on the east ; the first synagogue in the metropolis being at the 
 north-west corner of Old Jewry, which Stow describes as " a street so called of Jews 
 some time dwelling there and near adjoining." The only burial-place appointed them 
 in all England was the Jews' Garden, Redcross-street, Cripplegate ; until 1177, the 
 24th Henry II., when a special place was assigned to them in every quarter where 
 they dwelt. (Stow.) The site of the present Jewin-street, Aldersgate-street, anciently 
 " Leyrestowe," was granted them as a burial-place by Edward I. Capital punishment 
 was inflicted for comparatively small offences, and scarcely a day passed without an 
 execution in the Cheap. To some extent, this universal bloodthirstiness may explain, 
 if it does not extenuate, the cruelties practised on the unfortunate Jews. For the 
 king to take " a moiety of their moveables," whenever he wanted money, was bad 
 enough ; but on the doubtful charge of the wilful murder of a Christian child at Lincoln, 
 ninety-two Jews were apprehended, and eighteen of them " were on the same day 
 drawn, and after the hour of dinner, and towards the close of the day, hanged." In 
 the week before Palm Sunday, in the year 1263, the Jewry in London was wantonly 
 destroyed, and more than five hundred Jews " murdered by night in sections" none 
 escaping, seemingly, except those whom the mayor and the justiciars had sent to the 
 Tower before the massacre began. The ground for this outrage (according to Fabyan) 
 was, that a Jew had exacted more than legal interest from a Christian. Fifteen years 
 later no less than 293 Jews were " drawn and hanged for clipping the coin." In 1285, 
 more compendiously still, " all the Jews of England were taken and imprisoned, and 
 put to ransom on the morrow of St. Philip and James." Finally, a few years after- 
 wards " it was provided by the King and his Council, upon prayer of the Pope, that 
 all the Jews in England were sent into exile between the Gule of August and the 
 Feast of All Saints, under pain of decapitation, if after such feast any one of them 
 should be found in England." 
 
 The Jews made no effort to return to England till the protectorship of Oliver 
 Cromwell, when they proposed to pay 500,OOOZ. for certain privileges, including the 
 use of St. Paul's Cathedral as a synagogue ; but 800,OOOZ. was demanded, and the 
 negotiation was unsuccessful. They next applied to Charles II., then in exile at 
 Bruges, when the king proposed they should assist him with money, arms, or ammuni' 
 tion, to be repaid ; and Dean Tucker remarks, that the restoration of the Stuarts was 
 attended with the return of the Jews into Great Britain. The Jews themselves aver 
 that they received a private assent to their re-admission ; and Bishop Burnet assert? 
 that Cromwell brought a company of Jews over to England, and gave them leave to 
 build a synagogue. Dr. Tovey, however, in the Jewish registers, finds that, by their 
 own account, until the year 1663 the whole number of Jews in England did not exceed 
 twelve ; so that the date of their return must be referred to the reign of Charles II. 
 The first synagogue was built by Portuguese Jews, in King-street, Duke's-place, in 
 1656 ; and a school was founded by them in 1664, called " the Tree of Life." The 
 first German synagogue was built in Duke's-place in 1691, and occupied till 1790, 
 when the present edifice was erected. 
 
 The principal Jewish Cemeteries are two on the north side of the Mile-End-road 
 belonging to the Portuguese Jews, and a third to the German Jews. The old 
 Portuguese ground was first used 1657 : some of the tombs bear bas-reliefs from 
 Scripture ; as the story of Joseph and his brethren, Jacob wrestling with the angel, 
 &c. Near Queen's Elm, Fulham-road, is also "the bury ing-ground of the Westminster 
 Congregation of Jews," established 1816. 
 
 The Jewish quarter of the metropolis is bounded north by High-street, Spitalfields j 
 
 I I 2
 
 484 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 east ly Middlesex-street (Petticoat-lane); south by Leadenhall-street, Aldgate, and 
 Whitechapel ; and west by Bishopsgate-street. 
 
 The Clothes' Exchange of Cutler-street, Houndsditch, is popularly known as Rag 
 Fair; through which must pass, at one stage or another, half the second-hand habili- 
 ments of the empire. The trade in renovated clothes, too, is very great, so as to make 
 the epithet " worn-out" a popular error. Factitious arts make up the mighty 
 business of Rag Fair ; and Bevis Marks has long been the Oporto of London, noted 
 for its manufacture of " cheap port-wine." 
 
 Saturday in the Hebrew quarter is a day of devotion and rest : every shop is shut ; 
 and striking is the contrast between the almost conventual silence on that day of Bevis 
 Marks, Houndsditch, and St. Mary Axe, and the bustle of Whitechapel, Bishopsgate, 
 and Leadenhall. How the Christian Sabbath is kept is denoted by such a notice as 
 this : " Business will commence at this Exchange on Sunday morning at 10 o'clock. 
 By order of the managers, Moses Abrahams." Again, from 8 to 12 o'clock on Sunday 
 morning, Duke's-place is the great market for the supply of oranges to the itinerant 
 Jewish retailers. 
 
 The wealth of the leading Jews in London is very great, and their influence on the 
 money-market is overwhelming. Their shipping trade is very extensive. The largest 
 clothing-establishments are carried on by Jews. The trade in old silver goods, pictures, 
 old furniture, china, and curiosities, is chiefly carried on by Hebrew dealers. 
 
 Jews are admissible to all public offices and dignities, even to a scat in Parliament. 
 In 1828 baptized Jews were allowed to purchase the freedom of the City of London, a 
 privilege forbidden by the Court of Aldermen in 1785. Mr. David Salomons (1835) 
 and Sir Moses Montefiore (1837) served as Sheriffs of London, these being the 
 first Jews who filled that office ; and Sir Moses is the first Jew who received a 
 baronetcy in Britain. Mr. Salomons was elected Alderman for Cordwainers' Ward in 
 18-17, and is the first Jew who ever sat in the Court; he served as Lord Mayor in 
 1857-8. Alderman Sir Benjamin S. Phillips, Lord Mayor, 1865-6, received knighthood 
 for his very able discharge of his duties, and the dignity he imparted to the office. 
 
 The Jews take care of their own poor ; and their schools, hospitals, and asylums are 
 numerous. You may see many poor Jews, but never a Jewish beggar. In 1852, the 
 amount of offerings during the sacred festivals of the New Year, Day of Atonement, 
 &c., for the relief of the poor at the principal metropolitan Synagogues, were : Great 
 Synagogue, Duke's-place, 8001. ; Sephardim, ditto ; Bevis Marks, 500. ; New, ditto ; 
 Great St. Helen's, 6001. ; Hamburgh, ditto ; Fenchurch-street, 150Z. ; West London 
 ditto; Margaret-street, 70Z. total, 2120Z. The Western Synagogue, St. Alban's- 
 place, has abolished offerings, substituting in lieu thereof a charge on the seats. In 
 1852 there were distributed in Passover week to the poor of the Synagogues and the 
 itinerant poor, 55,000 pounds of Passover cakes, costing 9161. 13*. 4d. 
 
 The Rabbinical College, or Beth Hamedrash, Smith's-buildings, Leadenhall-street, 
 contains one of the most splendid Jewish libraries in Europe, and is open to the 
 public by tickets : here lectures are delivered gratuitously to the public, on Friday 
 evenings, by learned Jews. 
 
 The Jews' Free School, founded in 1817, is a good specimen of the zealous care with which the Jews 
 organize their institutions. This School originated in the general feeling then entertained of the 
 necessity of diffusing knowledge among the poor. Its founders adopted those parts of the various 
 systems of education then in general use which appeared to them best calculated to advance that object, 
 and the school has all along been conducted on a plan combining their advantages, mutual instruction 
 on the monitorial plan being fully recognised. Many children, they state, who would have wandered 
 idly about the streets, devoid alike of religion and knowledge, and who might easily have been ensnared 
 into courses of vice and infamy, have by means of this institution been instructed in their religious 
 duties and the elementary branches of knowledge, and been thus trained to become respectable and 
 useful members of society. The School, greatly enlarged, is now established in Bell-lane, Spitalfields, 
 and for nearly half a century has diffused the blessings of knowledge and morality among the poor 
 Jews of the metropolis, according to the design of its founders and supporters, though of late years 
 the system of education pursued in it has been somewhat modified and enlarged. The Revised Code 
 insists that every child presented shall satisfy the inspector in reading, writing, and arithmetic accord- 
 in? to a classification under six standards. In this department of the school the highest class was 
 examined in the highest standard, a degree of proficiency which had not been attained in the first year 
 of the operation of the Revised Code by any other school in the country : making a small allowance for 
 unavoidable absences, about 99 per cent, of those children presented passed successfully. 
 
 JEWS'-EOW, at Chelsea, has been made by Wilkie the background of his picture of
 
 8T. JOHN'S GATE, CLERKENWELL. 485 
 
 " the Chelsea Pensioners reading the Gazette of the Battle of Waterloo," now in the 
 Duke of Wellington's Gallery, at Apsley House. 
 
 " Jews'-row has a Teniers-like line of mean public-houses, lodging-houses, rag-shops, and huckster- 
 shops, on the right-hand, as you approach Chelsea College. It is the Pall Mall of the pensioners ; and 
 its projecting gables, breaks, and other picturesque attributes were admirably suited, in the artist's 
 opinion, for the localities of the picture." Mrs. A. T. Thomson. 
 
 ST. JOHN'S GATE, CLERKENWELL, 
 
 IS nearly all that remains of the magnificent monastery of the Knights of St. John 
 of Jerusalem, that chivalrous order which for seven centuries " was the sword and 
 buckler of Christendom in the Paynim war." The priory was founded in 1100, and 
 was almost of palatial extent. King John resided here in 1212 ; and our sovereigns 
 occasionally held councils here. Three acres of ground lying without the walls, between 
 the land of the Abbot of Westminster and of the Prior of St. John of Jerusalem, was 
 called No- man's Land. In November, 1326, Anthony d'Espagne, a wealthy merchant, 
 who collected a burdensome duty of 2s. a tun on wine, was dragged barefoot out of the 
 City, and beheaded by the populace on No-man's Land a fitting name for the site of 
 such an atrocity ! In 1382 the whole commandery was burnt by Wat Tyler's mob ; 
 and the grand prior was beheaded in the courtyard, the site of St. John's-square, at 
 the southern entrance of which stands the gateway. Late in the fifteenth century, the 
 rebuilding of the monastery was commenced by Prior Docwra, who, according to 
 Camdcn, " increased it to the size of a palace," and completed this entrance about 
 1501, " as appeareth by the inscription over the gatehouse yet remaining" (Stow). 
 
 In a Chapter held here 11 Jan. 1514, Sir T. Docwra prior, a lease was granted to Cardinal Wolsey 
 of the manor of Hampton, which the most eminent physicians of England and learned doctors from 
 Padua had selected as the healthiest spot within twenty miles of London for the site of a palace for 
 the cardinal. In this curious document (Cotton. MSS. British Museum) is a grant of four loads of 
 timber annually for piles for the Hampton Weir, to be cut "in and fro Seynt John's Woode, Midd." 
 This grant is printed in the Gentleman's Magazine, January, 1834. 
 
 Docwra was grand-prior from 1502 to 1520, and was the immediate predecessor of 
 the lust superior of the house, who died of grief on Ascension-day, 1540, when the 
 priory was suppressed. Five years subsequently, the site and precinct were granted to 
 John Lord Lisle, for his service as high-admiral ; the church becoming a kind of store- 
 house " for the king's toyles and tents for hunting, and for the warres." It was, 
 however, undermined and blown up with gunpowder, and the materials were employed 
 by the Lord Protector to King Edward VI. in building Somerset-place; the Gate would 
 probably have been destroyed, but from its serving to define the property. The Priory 
 was partly restored upon the accession of Mary, but again suppressed by Elizabeth. In 
 1604 the Gate was granted to Sir Roger Wilbraham for his life. Hollar's very scarce 
 etchings show the castellated hospital, with the old front, eastern side, towards St. John- 
 street, about 1640 ; also the western side, and Gatehouse. 
 
 At this time Clerkenwell was inhabited by people of condition. Forty years later 
 fashion had travelled westward ; and the Gate became the printing-office of Edward 
 Cave, who, in 1731, published here the first number of the Gentleman's Magazine, 
 which to this day bears the Gate for its vignette. Dr. Johnson was first engaged upon 
 the magazine here by Cave in 1737 : " his practice was to shut himself up in a room 
 assigned to him at St. John's Gate, to which he would not suffer any one to approach, 
 except the compositor or Cave's boy for matter, which, as fast as he composed, he 
 tumbled out at the door." (Hawkins.) At the Gate Johnson first met Richard 
 Savage ; and here in Cave's room, when visitors called, Johnson ate his plate of victuals 
 behind the screen, his dress being " so shabby that he durst not make his appearance." 
 One day, while thus concealed, Johnson heard Walter Harte, the poet and historian, 
 highly praise the Life of Savage. Garrick, when he first came to London, frequently 
 called upon Johnson at the Gate ; and at Cave's request, in the room over the great 
 arch, and with the assistance of a few journeyman-printers to read the other parts, 
 Garrick represented the principal character in Fielding's farce of the Mock Doctor. 
 Goldsmith was also a visitor here. When Cave grew rich, he had St. John's Gate 
 painted, instead of his arms, on his carriage, and engraved on his plate. After Cave's
 
 486 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 death in 1754, the premises became the " Jerusalem" public-house, and the " Jerusalem 
 Tavern." 
 
 The latter name was assumed from the Jerusalem Tavern, Eed Lion-street, in whose dank and cob- 
 webbed vaults John Britton served an apprenticeship to a wine-merchant ; and in reading at intervals 
 by candle-light, first evinced that love of literature which characterized his long life of industry and 
 integrity. He remembered Clerkenwell in 1787, with St. John's Priory-church and cloisters ; when 
 Spa-fields were pasturage for cows ; the old garden-mansions of the aristocracy remained in Clerken- 
 well-close; and Sadler's Wells, Islington Spa, Merlin's Cave, and Bagnigge Wells, were nightly crowded 
 with gay company. 
 
 In 1845, under the new Metropolitan Buildings' Act, a survey of St. John's Gate 
 was made, and a notice given to the then owner to repair it : and by the aid of " the 
 Freemasons of the Church," and Mr. W. P. Griffith, architect, the north and south 
 fronts were restored. 
 
 The gateway is a good specimen of groining of the fifteenth century, with moulded 
 ribs, and bosses ornamented with shields of the arms of the Priory, Prior Docwra, &c. 
 The south or principal front has a double projection ; has numerous small windows ; 
 and a principal window over the crown of the arch in each front, in the wide and 
 obtusely -pointed style. The south front bears the arms of France and England, and 
 the north or inner front those of the Priory and Docwra. In the west side of the 
 gateway is an ancient carved oak doorhead, discovered in 1813, when that part of the 
 building (afterwards a coal-shed) was converted into a watch-house for St. John's parish. 
 In the spandrels are the monastery arms, as also in a low door-case of the west tower 
 from the north side of the Gate ; these spandrels also bear a cock and a hawk, and a 
 hen and a lion. This was the entrance to Cave's printing-office. The east basement 
 is the tavern-bar, with a beautifully moulded ceiling. The stairs are Elizabethan. The 
 principal room over the arch has been despoiled of its window-inullions and groined 
 roof. The foundation-wall of the Gate is 10 feet 7 inches thick, and the upper walls 
 are nearly 4 feet, hard red brick, stone cased : the view from the top of the staircase- 
 turret is extensive. In excavating there have been discovered the original pavement, 
 3 feet below the Gate ; and the Priory walls, north, south, and west. Other repairs 
 were commenced in 1866. 
 
 St. John's Church, in St. John's-square, is built upon the chancel and side aisles of 
 the old Priory-church, and upon its crypt ; the capitals of the columns, ribbed mouldings, 
 lancet windows, are fine ; from the key-stone of each arch hangs an iron lamp-ring : 
 in 1849, the crypt was found by excavation to have extended much further westward. 
 The turret-clock belonged to old St. James's Church, as did also the silver head of the 
 beadle's staff (James II. 1685). Here, too, is a portable baptismal bowl, with a 
 scriptural inscription, and " Deo est sacris :" it was formerly used as the church font. 
 (See Ye History of ye Priory and Gate of St. John. By B. Foster. 1851.) 
 
 The Gate is minutely described in Chapter X. of Pinks's History of Clerkenwell, 
 pp. 241-257, with eleven engravings, wherein it is stated: "to Mr. W. P. Griffith, 
 F.S.A., the inhabitants of Clerkenwell are deeply indebted for saving from positive 
 defacement, if not from absolute removal, the Gate of the Priory of St. John." 
 
 KENNINGTON, 
 
 \ MANOR of Lambeth, is named from Saxon words signifying the place or town 
 -*- of the king. Here, at a Danish marriage, died Hardiknute, in 1041. Here 
 Harold, son of Earl Godwin, seized the Crown the day after the death of the Confessor, 
 and is said to have placed it on his own head. Here, in 1231, King Henry III. held 
 his court, and passed a solemn and stately Christmas ; and here, says Matthew Paris, 
 was held a Parliament in the succeeding year. Hither, says Stow, in 1376, 
 came the Duke of Lancaster, to escape the fury of the populace of London, on 
 Friday, February 20, the day following that on which Wickliffe had been brought 
 before the bishops at St. Paul's. Hither also came a deputation of the chiefest 
 citizens to Richard II., June 21, 1377, "before the old king was departed," "to 
 accept him for their true and lawfull king and gouernor." Kennington was the occa- 
 sional residence of Henry IV. and VI. Henry VII. was here shortly previous to his 
 coronation. Leland tells us that Katharine of Aragon was here for a few days ; after
 
 KENNINGTON. 487 
 
 which the palace probahly fell into decay : Camden, late in the reign of Elizabeth, 
 says, though erroneously, that " of this retreat of our ancient Kings, neither the name 
 nor the ruins are now to be found." The early celebrity of the manor of Kennington 
 as a " Royal property " is attested to this day in the names of Prince's-road and 
 Chester-place, which refer to the annexation of the manor to the Duchy of Cornwall, in 
 the reign of Edward III., who was here in 1339, from a document printed in the 
 Fcedera, tested by the Black Prince, then only ten years of age. James I. settled the 
 manor, with other estates, on his eldest son, Henry, Prince of Wales : and after his 
 decease, in 1612, on Prince Charles (afterwards Charles I.), and they have ever since 
 been held as part of the estate of the Prince of Wales, as Duke of Cornwall. Charles 
 was the last tenant of the palace, which was then taken down, and there was built on 
 the site a manor-house, described in 1656 as an old, low, timber building ; but of the 
 palace offices there remained the stable, a long building of flint and stone, used as a 
 barn: this was taken down in 1795. The palace, there is no doubt, stood within the 
 triangular plot of ground near Kennington Cross, now . bounded by Park-place, Devon- 
 shire-street, and Park-street ; thick fragments of walls of flint, chalk, and rubble stone 
 intermixed, may yet be seen in the cellars of some houses in Park-place. 
 
 Kennington Common (about twenty acres) was formerly noted for its cricket-matches, 
 pugilism, and itinerant preachers, and as the exercise-ground of volunteer regiments. 
 It was the common place of execution for Surrey, before the erection of the County 
 Gaol, Horsemonger-lane ; and on the site of St. Mark's Church, south of the Common, 
 some of the rebels of 1745, tried by special commission in Southwark, were hanged, 
 drawn, and quartered : among them was " Jemmy Dawson," the hero of Shenstone's 
 touching ballad : and of another ditty, set to music by Dr. Arne, and sung about the 
 streets. On the Common was a bridge, called Merton Bridge, which was formerly 
 repaired by the Canons of Merton Abbey, who had lands for that purpose. (Lysons.) 
 Here was a theatre ; for, Baker, in his Biographici, Dramatica, edit. 1732, vol. ii. 
 p. 239, says, " the satyrical, comical, allegorical farce," the Mock Doctor, published in 
 8vo, in 1739, was " acted to a crowded audience at Kennington Common, and many 
 other theatres, with the humour of the mob." Here George Whitefield preached to 
 audiences of ten, twenty, and thirty thousand persons, as we learn from his published 
 diary, which is now scarce : 
 
 " Sunday, April 29, 1731. At five in the evening went and preached at Kennington Common, about 
 two miles from London, where upwards of 20,000 people were supposed to be present. The wind being 
 for me, it carried the voice to the extremest part of the audience. All stood attentive and joined in the 
 Psalm and the Lord's Prayer so regularly, that I scarce ever preached with more quietness in any 
 church. Many were much affected. 
 
 " Sunday, May 6, 1731. At six in the evening went and preached at Kennington ; but such a sight 
 I never saw before. Some supposed there were above 30,000 or 40,000 people, and near four score coaches, 
 besides great numbers of horses; and there was such an awful silence amongst them, and the Word of 
 God came with such power, that all seemed pleasingly surprised. I continued my discourse for an hour 
 and a half. 
 
 " Friday, August 3, 1739. Having spent the day in completing my affairs (about to embark for 
 America), and taking leave of my dear friends, I preached in the evening to near 20,000 people at Ken- 
 nington Common. I chose to discourse on St. Paul's parting speech to the elders of Ephcsus, at which 
 the people were exceedingly affected, and almost prevented my making any application. Many tears 
 were shed when I talked of leaving them. I concluded with a suitable hymn, but could scarce get to 
 the coach for the people thronging me, to take me by the hand, and give me a parting blessing." 
 
 On Kennington Common was held, April 10, 1848, the great revolutionary meeting of 
 " Chartists," brought to a ridiculous issue by the unity and resolution of the metropolis, 
 backed by the judicious measures of the Government, and the masterly military pre- 
 cautions of the late Duke of Wellington. In 1852, the Common, with the site of the 
 Pound of the manor of Kennington, were granted by Act of Parliament, on behalf of 
 the Prince of Wales, as part of the Duchy of Cornwall estate, to be inclosed and laid 
 out as " pleasure-grounds for the recreation of the public ; but if it cease to be so main- 
 tained, it shall revert to the duchy." They comprise twelve acres, disposed in grass- 
 plots, and planted with shrubs and evergreens ; and at the main entrance have been 
 reconstructed the model cottages originally erected at the expense of Prince Albert for 
 the Great Exhibition of 1851 : the walls are built with hollow and glazed brick, and 
 the floors are brick and stucco; the whole being fireproof. At Kennington-green, in 
 1852, was built a large Vestry Hall, in semi-classic style, for the district of Lambeth. 
 In Kennington-lane is the School of the Friendly Society of Licensed Victuallers, built 
 1836 ; the first stone laid by Viscount Melbourne, in the name of King William IV.
 
 4SS CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 KENSINGTON, BROMPTON, AND KNIGHTSBRIDGE. 
 
 "IT" ENSTNGTON, a mile and a half west of Hyde Park-corner, contains the hamlets 
 -I-V of Brompton, Earl's-court, the Gravelpits, and part of Little Chelsea, now West 
 Brompton ; hut the royal palace, and ahout twenty other houses north of the road, are 
 in the parish of St. Margaret, Westminster. On the south side, the parish of Ken- 
 sington extends heyond the Gore, anciently Kyng's Gore, the principal houses hetween 
 which and Knightshridge are also in St. Margaret's. The old church (St. Mary 
 Abbot's) Bishop Blomfield used to designate the ugliest in his diocese. 
 
 The resolution to build this church was adopted by the vestry in 1696, and amonpr the con- 
 tributors were King William III. and Queen Mary, as well as the Princess Anne. The King 
 find Queen not only subscribed to the building fund, but presented the reading-desk and pulpit, 
 which have crowns carved upon them, with the initials AV. and M. R. A curtained pew was 
 in consequence set apart for the Royal family, and long continued to be occupied by residents 
 in Kensington Palace, among whom the Duke and Duchess of Kent and the late Duke of Cam- 
 bridge are still remembered. It was in this church that the Duchess of Kent returned thanks 
 after the birth of her present Majesty. In the parish books there are entries of the expenses incurred 
 for ringing the church bells on all public occasions since the Revolution. Mr. Wilberforce, who resided 
 at Kensington-gore, is still remembered sitting in the pew appropriated to the Holland-house family. 
 George Canning might often be seen seated in the Royal pew. Coke, of Norfolk, had a pew here, which 
 he regularly occupied. Nassau Senior, the political economist, resided at Hyde-park-gate, and \V. M. 
 Thackeray occupied a house which he had planned and built for himself in Palace-green, where he died 
 December, 1863. These eminent writers both attended the early service at half-past nine. When Lord 
 Macaulay came to reside at Holly-lodge, Campden-hill, he desired to have a list of the parochial chari- 
 ties and a seat in the parish church. Although confined to the house by asthma during the winter, he was 
 regular in his attendance during the summer ; he died at Holly Lodge, December 20, 1859. The church, 
 condemned as incapable of being long used for public worship, contains 114 monuments. (See p. 181.) 
 
 The extension of Kensington mostly dates from the enlargement of the royal palace ; 
 though the mineral spring which it once possessed may have contributed to the celebrity 
 of the place. Holland House is described at p. 431. Nearly opposite, in the Kensing- 
 ton-road, was the Adam and Eve public-house, where Sheridan, on his way to or from 
 Holland House, regularly stopped for a dram ; and there he ran up a long bill, which 
 Lord Holland had to pay. (Moore's Diary.) Kensington Palace Gardens lead from 
 the High-street of Kensington to the Bayswater-road, and contain several costly 
 mansions, including one of German Gothic design, built for the Earl of Harrington in 
 1852. On Campden Hill is the observatory of Sir James South, one of the founders 
 of the Royal Astronomical Society : among the working instruments are a 7-feet transit 
 instrument, a 4-feet transit circle, and one of the equatorials with which, between 
 1821 and 1823, Sir James South (at Blackman- street, Southwark) and Sir John 
 Herschel made a catalogue of 380 double stars. In Little Chelsea was born, in 1674, 
 Charles Boyle, fourth Earl of Orrery, patron of Graham, who constructed for the Earl 
 an orrery, which was named after his lordship. 
 
 In Orbell's-buildings, Kensington, lodged Sir Isaac Newton from January, 1725, until his death, 
 March 20, 1727, in his 85th year. His body, on March 28, lay in state in the Jerusalem Chamber, and 
 was thence buried in Westminster Abbey. 
 
 Leigh Hunt has written a remarkably pleasant account of Kensington, under the title 
 of The Old Court {suburb. Here are the old mansions, Kensington House and Colby 
 House, described at p. 447. Campden House is described at p. 445. 
 
 Here was the King's Arms Tavern, the last place in or about London where the old coffee-house style 
 of society was still preserved, and where members of the legislature and a high class of gentry were to be 
 met with in rooms open to " the town." It was patronized for many years by the family at Holland 
 ] louse, and Moore, in his Diary, alludes to it. It was much frequented by members of tli3 London 
 Clubs. Among them was " Vesey junior" (Lord Eldon's Law Reporter), who preserved his Iprensic 
 name to his eightieth year. Flaxman, the sculptor, was fond of retiring thither, and always dinod in 
 one of the small rooms looking over the gardens ; and it was there also that "the Doctor" (William 
 llaginn) was to be found in his best conversational mood. Press newspaper. 
 
 At Gore House, Kensington Gore, Mr. Wilberforce resided from 1808 to 1821. 
 He writes : " We are just one mile from the turnpike at Hyde Park Corner, having 
 about three acres of pleasure-ground around our house, or rather behind it; and several 
 old trees, walnut and mulberry, of thick foliage. I can sit and read under their shade 
 with as much admiration of the beauties of nature' as if 1 were 200 miles from the 
 great city." Thither came Clarkson, Zachary Macaulay, Komilly, and others, to
 
 KENSINGTON, BROMPTON, AND KNIGHTSBRIDGE. 489 
 
 comrmmn with Wilberforce on measures for the abolition of slavery. He often alludes 
 to liis " Kensington Gore breakfasts." He was much attached to the place, but its 
 costliness made him uneasy lest it should compel him to curtail his charities. The 
 Countess of Blessington resided at Gore House for the same period as Mr. Wilberforce 
 thirteen years. In her time the place retained much of its picturesqueness, of 
 which there is an interesting memorial a large view in the grounds, with portraits 
 of the Duke of Wellington, Lady Blessington, and other celebrities, including Count 
 D'Orsay, the painter of the picture. Lady Blessington's Curiosities were sold here in 
 18 19. The house was opened by Soyer as a restaurant (" Symposium ") during the 
 Exhibition of 1851. In the Temple Bar Magazine, Mr. Sala has described, in his 
 very clever manner, what he saw and thought, whilst for " many moons he slept, and 
 ate, and drank, and walked, and talked, in Gore House, surrounded by the very 
 strangest of company." In 1852, the Gore House estate, twenty-one and a half acres, 
 was purchased for 60,000?., and the Baron de Villars's estate, adjoining, forty-eight 
 seres, fronting the Brompton-road, was bought for 153.500J., by the Commissioners of 
 the Great Exhibition of 1851. 
 
 The yellow gravel of Hyde Park and Kensington, so often found covering the London clay, is, com- 
 paratively speaking, of very modern date, and consists of slightly rolled, and, for the most part, angular 
 fragments, in which portions of the white opaque coating of the original chalk-flint remain uncovered. 
 Sir Charlfg Lyell, F.6.S. 
 
 The eastern extremity of the Gore, now the site of Ennismore Gardens, is the 
 highest point of ground between Hyde Park-corner and Windsor Castle. (Faulkner's 
 Kensington.) Kingston, next Ennismore, and now Listowel, House, was the residence 
 of the Duchess of Kingston, " the notified Bet Cheatley, Duchess of Kuightsbridge," 
 who died here in 1788. Here in 1842 died the Marquis Wellesley ; in the corridor 
 is a large window, a garden-scene, painted by John Martin when he was a pupil of 
 Muss. At Old Brompton, upon the site of the Florida Tea Gardens, was Orford 
 Lodge, built for the Duchess of Gloucester, and subsequently tenanted by the Princess 
 Sophia of Gloucester, and the Right Hon. George Canning, who was here visited 
 by Queen Caroline. The house was afterwards called " Gloucester Lodge," and was 
 taken down in 1852. Here also was Hale or " Cromwell " House taken down in 
 1853. The large space of ground between the Kensington and Brompton roads in- 
 cluded the Brompton Park nursery j and here (in 1853) were remains of the wall of 
 Brompton Park. Brompton Hall, mostly modern, has a noble Elizabethan room, 
 wherein Lord Burghley is said to have received Queen Elizabeth. In the hamlet of 
 Earl's Court, about 1761, John Hunter, the eminent surgeon, built a house, in which 
 he lived for nearly thirty years. The house and grounds (where Baird was " surprised 
 to find so many living animals in one herd from the most opposite parts of the 
 habitable globe ") remain to this day. 
 
 SOUTH KENSINGTON is the district lying south of the main Kensington-road, the 
 nucleus being the Gore House estate above mentioned ; added to which were Gray's 
 Nursery Grounds, Park House, Grove House, and various market-gardens ; the grounds 
 of Cromwell House and other lands belonging to the Earl of Harrington and the Baron 
 de Villars, in all eighty-six acres, for 280,000^., at an average of 3250Z. an acre. Old 
 footpaths, &c., were stopped, and houses removed, and nearly two miles of new road- 
 way formed the chief lines surrounding the best part of the Estate namely, the 
 Cromwell-road, the Exhibition-road, and the Prince Albert-road, forming with the 
 main Kensington-road, four sides of a square. Thereon is now in progress of erection, 
 " the South Kensington Museum," to be described under MUSEUMS. About twelve 
 acres have been let on building leases, and are covered with lines of lofty and handsome 
 houses, the Commissioners nearly doubling their original capital by the above specula- 
 tion. They next let the upper part of the great centre square, about twenty-two 
 acres, to the Horticultural Society. (See GAKUENS, p. 370). Next was erected, south 
 of the Horticultural Society's Gardens, the buildings for the International Exhibition 
 of the year 1862. 
 
 The main building, designed hy Captain Fowke, B.E., occupied about sixteen acres of ground : it 
 measured about 1200 fee from east to west, by 560 feet from north to south. The whole of this ground 
 was covered by buildings of brick, iron, and glass ; and two long strips of ground, east and west, were
 
 490 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 roofed in by the temporary sheds, or annexh, in which were shown machinery, and large and heavy 
 objects, this additional area extending to seven acres. The interior space, covered by roofs of various 
 heights, was divided into nave, transepts, aisles, and open courts ; the latter were roofed with glass, but 
 the other parts had opaque roofs, and were lighted by clerestory windows. The south front, in Cromwell- 
 road, 1150 feet long, and 55 feet high, was of brick, had two projecting towers at each end, and a larger 
 centre tower, in which was the main entrance to the Picture Galleries, being about as long as the Gallery 
 of the Louvre, in Paris. In the east and west fronts rose a dome to a height of 260 feet. Under each 
 noble arched recess was the entrance to the Industrial Courts, and in each tympan was a great rose- 
 window. At the extreme north and south were two auxiliary Picture Galleries. The only portions of 
 the building which resembled the Crystal Palace of 1851, were the six courts north and south of the 
 nave; they had glass roofs on the ridge-and- valley plan, supported by square iron columns andwrought- 
 iron trellis-girders. Each dome was at the intersection of the nave and transepts, and was of glass, 
 with an outer and inner gallery. The interior was variously coloured, and relieved with gold, medal- 
 lions and inscriptions ; the decorations beneath the dome were grand, harmonious, and rich; and the 
 view beneath the nave, 800 feet in length, remarkably effective. The Exhibition, based upon that of 
 1851, embraced thirty-six classes, besides those of the Fine Arts. It was opened with befitting cere- 
 mony, May 1, 1862, by the Duke of Cambridge, by command of the Queen, whose absence through 
 the death of the great originator, Prince Albert greatly dimmed the state pageant. About 22,000 ex- 
 hibitors were here represented, of whom about 17,000 were subjects of Her Majesty, and 5000 of foreign 
 States. The absence of artistic treatment in the plan of the building, the general elevation, and the 
 exterior ornamental details, were very objectionable. Still, under many depressing influences, the 
 Exhibition proved numerically and practically a success ; the manufactures of the United Kingdom 
 showed not merely a gratifying advance upon those of 1851, but a still greater improvement as com- 
 pared with those of other countries; commercially 3 the exhibitors largely benefited by the sale of 
 works of industrial and fine art, home and foreign. A compact account of the International Exhibition, 
 1862, will be found in the extra volume of the Year-book of Facts, pp. 362. 
 
 In the construction of the building 4000 persons were employed ; the buildings were insured for 
 400,000^., at a cost of 33001. ; the prizes to exhibitors were declared July 11 ; the Exhibition was closed 
 Nov. 1 ; Great Exhibition Memorial to Prince Albert, inaugurated June 10', 1863. The buildings have since 
 been taken down, except the Picture Galleries, in which has been held the National Portrait Exhibition. 
 
 BEOMPTOK has long been frequented by invalids for its genial air. (See CON- 
 SUMPTION HOSPITAL, p. 43, and HOLY TEINITT CHURCH, p. 208.) At No. 7, 
 Amelia-place, died, in 1817, the Right Hon. J. P. Curran. In Brompton-square, at 
 No. 13, died Charles Incledon, the singer, 1826 ; and in the same year, at No. 22, 
 George Colman the younger. At the Grange, taken down in 1842, lived Braham, 
 the singer. At No. 45, Brompton-row, Count Rumford, the heat-philosopher ; Rev. W. 
 Beloe, the " Sexagenarian ;" and Sir Richard Phillips, when writing his Million of 
 Facts. At No. 14, Queen's-row, Arthur Murphy died in 1805, aged 77. The 
 National School-house attached to Brompton Church was built in 1841, in the Tudor 
 style, by George Godwin, F.R.S., architect. Brompton was once famous for its 
 taverns j southward, among " the Groves," were the Hoop and Toy, the Florida, and 
 other tea-gardens; at Old Brompton there remains the Swan, with its bowling-green. 
 In a retired and well-appointed house, eastward, Mademoiselle Jenny Lind resided, 
 during the zenith of her well-earned fame as a songstress. 
 
 KNIGHTSBRIDGE, or Kingsbridge, which is the more ancient name is doubtful. In 
 a charter of Edward the Confessor, the wood at Kyngesbyrig is referred to. In a 
 charter, not royal, namely one of Abbot Herbert, of Westminster, less than a century 
 thereafter, occurs the name of Knyghtsbrigg. In Domesday it formed part of three 
 manors Neyte, Hyde (whence the name of Hyde Park), and Eybury, now spelt 
 Ebury, which came by marriage to the Grosvenor family, and has been chosen as a 
 title by one of its members. There is a tradition as to " Knightsbridge," namely, 
 that two knights, on the way to Fulham, to be blessed by the Bishop of London, 
 quarrelled and fought at the Westbourn Bridge, and killed each other on the spot. A 
 commentator of Norden, the topographer, too, gives the following anecdote : " Kinges- 
 bridge, commonly called Stonebridge, near Hyde Park-corner, where I wish no true 
 man to walk too late without good guard, as did Sir H. Knyvett, knight, who valiantly 
 defended himself, there being assaulted, and slew the master-thief with his own 
 hands." Still, we have the fact that the place was called " Knyghtsbrigg " in a 
 formal charter (that of Abbot Herbert), long before the time to which either of these 
 traditions could apply. 
 
 The bridge whence the place partly derived its name was one thrown across the Westbourn, which, 
 rising at West-End in Hampstead, and giving its name to a district of Bayswater, flowed through the 
 (artificially widened) Serpentine to the Thames. Its course may yet be traced on any map of London 
 by_the irregularities it has caused in laying out Belgravia. Part of it was an open brook so lately as 
 1854, but it is now wholly covered in ; and is, we need not say, a common sewer, like the Oldbourne or 
 the Fleet. Pont-street, which opens Belgravia to Sloane-street, must derive its name from the fact 
 that it was at one time one of the few bridges over the Westbourne. This brook used formerly to over-
 
 KNIGHT SBEIDG13. 491 
 
 flow after heavy rains. One such flood is remembered in 1809, when for several days passengers had to 
 be rowed from Chelsea to Westminster by the Thames boatmen. 
 
 The Kniglitsbridge road was infested by footpads, so that even so late as 1799 a 
 party of light horse patrolled nightly from Hyde Park-corner to Kensington ; and it is 
 within the memory of some still alive that pedestrians walked to and from Kensington 
 in bands sufficient to ensure mutual protection, starting at known intervals, when a 
 bell was rung to announce the proper time. It was not even safe to sojourn at the 
 change-houses or inns which stood by the way, for these were the haunts of the high- 
 waymen. The water supply of the hamlet was anciently by means of springs and 
 wells, which were very numerous, pure, and valuable. Doubtless, the Westbourn was 
 also of great use to the inhabitants. In the beginning of the eighteenth century, a 
 conduit was formed within Hyde Park, by permission of the Crown, for the supply of 
 Park-side ; and in the fields on each side of Rotten-row there was a row of conduits, 
 the waters of which were received by one at the end of Park-side, known as St. James's 
 or the Receiving Conduit : these supplied the royal residences and the Abbey. A 
 spring in Hyde Park, in the time of James I., was allowed to supply the Lazar-house 
 (now Trinity Chapel, described at p. 216) by " a pipe of lead bringinge the sayde 
 springe of water to the sayde house." Builder. 
 
 West of St. George's Hospital, at No. 14, John Listen, the comedian, lived several years, and here 
 he died, March 22, 1846. Listen was born in Norris-street, Haymarket, in 1776, and was educated in 
 Archbishop Tenison's school : he first appeared on the stage, at the Haymarket Theatre, in 1805; and 
 retired at the Olympic Theatre in 1837 : he died worth 40,0002. 
 
 In 1842, opposite the Conduit in Hyde Park, was built the St. George's Gallery, 
 for the exhibition of Mr. Dunn's Chinese Collection; subsequently occupied by Mr. 
 Gordon Curnming's African Exhibition, and Bartlett and Beverley's Diorama of the 
 Holy Land. The Gallery was then taken down. 
 
 The original entrance was copied from a Chinese summer-house, inscribed " Ten thousand Chinese 
 things." This Collection, formed by Mr. Nathaniel Dunn, in twelve years, and first exhibited in Phila- 
 delphia, consisted of a vast assemblage from China of its idols, temples, pagodas, and bridges; arts and 
 sciences, manufactures and trades; parlours and drawing-rooms; clothes, finery, and ornaments; 
 weapons of war, vessels, dwellings, &c. Here were life-size groups of a temple of idols, a council of 
 mandarins, and Chinese priests, soldiers, men of letters, ladies of rank, tragedians, barbers, shoemakers, 
 blacksmiths, boat-women, servants, Ac., amidst set scenes and furnished dwellings. Here was a two- 
 storied house from Canton, besides shops from its streets ; here were persons of rank in sumptuous 
 costumes, artisans in their working-clothes, and altogether such a picture of Chinese social life as the 
 European world had never before seen. Part of the collection was subsequently .exhibited in 1851, in a 
 gay pavilion built for the occasion west of Albert Gate; the site of which is now occupied by a hand- 
 some five-storied mansion. 
 
 Westward is Albert-gate, Hyde Park, opened 1846 : the stags upon the piers were 
 formerly at the Ranger's Lodge, Green Park, and were modelled from a pair of prints 
 by Bartolozzi. The ground, with the site of the large and lofty houses east and west, 
 was purchased by the Crown from the Dean and Chapter of Westminster, when the 
 Cannon Brewery was removed : the house east was bought for 15,000. by Mr. Hudson, 
 then " the Railway King." It is now the residence of the French Embassy. 
 
 Knightsbridge Green is identified as the burial-pit of the victims of the plague in 
 the lazar-house and the hamlet generally. On the Green was erected, in 1864, the 
 New Tattersall's removed from " the Corner," for the increased accommodation and 
 comfort of the Jockey Club, its subscribers, and the general public. 
 
 The plot of ground upon which it stands is nearly two acres in extent. It is approached from the 
 east by Knightsbridge-green, and thefayade consists of two square wing-blooks, divided by a pedimented 
 gateway, carved, and two side entrances. The subscription-room is a saloon 60 ft. by 30 ft., with a 
 clear height of 26 ft. 6 in. : lighted by day by two large domes 18 ft. high, covered with lunettes. 
 A third dome is in the centre of the ceiling, in which an enormous sun-burner is placed by night. 
 These domes are bordered by a beautiful guilloche pattern, and enriched with coloured devices. The 
 walls are decorated in the same pattern. The spacious floor is paved, in a tasteful geometric pattern. 
 A raised dais, about 6 in. in height, surrounds this apartment. It is skirted and edged with marble. 
 Under each of the two extreme domes a large octagon slab of marble supports the desks used for re- 
 cording wagers or writing letters. At the south-west corner is an area of about 70 ft. by 40 ft. for open- 
 air betting, with a telegraph office. The grand or central entrance leads into the principal public yard, 
 appropriated to sales by auction. In the centre of this area is the old and familiar temple of the other 
 premises at Hyde Park-corner, covering the aqueduct with its fox and the bust of George IV. when in 
 early life ; and in the north-west corner, is the well-known pulpit of the auctioneer. The whole yard is 
 covered by a gigantic roof of Hartley's patent glass. 
 
 At Rutland Gate (on the site of a mansion of the Dukes of Rutland) is the house where John Sheep- 
 shanks, Ksq., formed his collection of 228 pictures (with two exceptions), by modern British artists: 
 including 6 works by A. Callcott, E.A. ; W. Collins, K.A., 7; John Constable, B.A.,5; C. W. Cope,
 
 492 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 E.A., 7; W. Etty, R.A., 2; Edwin Landseer, R.A., 9; C. Leslie, R.A., 9 ; \V. Mulready, R.A., ]5; \V. Red- 
 prave, R.A., 6; C. Stanfield, R.A., 3; J.M. W. Turner, R.A., 5; T. Uwins, R.A.,4; T. Webster, R.A., 5. 
 The collection was bequeathed by Mr. Sheepshanks to the National Gallery. 
 
 In High-road, between the Green and Rutland-gate, are the oldest houses in the 
 hamlet. Chatham House is dated 1688. Three doors beyond it is The Base and Crown 
 inn, formerly Oliver Cromivell, the front of which is emblazoned with the great Pro- 
 tector's arms. There is a tradition that his body-guard was once quartered here ; as well 
 as of its having sheltered Wyat, while his unfortunate Kentish followers rioted on the 
 adjacent green. At the corner of South-place is the Phoenix Floorcloth Manufactory, the 
 earliest established, founded by Nathan Smith, 1754 ; burnt down 1794 ; rebuilt 1824 : 
 at the north end is a clock, with a figure of Time, cut in stone. At Kent House 
 resided for a few years the Duke of Kent, who largely added to the original house. 
 Stratheden House was the town residence of Lord Campbell and Lady Stratheden : 
 Lord Campbell died here, June 23, 1861, aged eighty-one : the first volume of his Lives 
 of the Chancellors is dated from this house. 
 
 In High-row stood the noted Fox and Bull Tavern, of the time of Queen Elizabeth, 
 and noted for its gay company to our time. The house is referred to in the Tatler, 
 No. 259. Sir Joshua Eeynolds, Sir W. Wynn, the patron of Ryland, and George 
 Morland, were visitors here ; and Sir Joshua painted the sign, which hung till 1807, 
 when it was destroyed in a storm. The Elizabethan house was panelled and carved 
 and had enriched ceilings ; and its immense fire-dogs were not disused till 1799. In a 
 house westward lived Lady Anne Hamilton ; then Mr. Chalon and Mr. Davies, both 
 artists of repute ; and next Mr. White the naturalist, who had here a menagerie. Mr. 
 Woodburn, the connoisseur in ancient art, once lived here; and the staircases still bear 
 evidence of the artistic tenancy. 
 
 Ozias Humphry, R.A., resided many years at Knightsbridge ; he died at 13, High- 
 row, in 1810. At the west end of the row is the Horse Guards' Barracks, built in 
 1795, and capable of accommodating 600 men and 500 horses. Bensley, the actor, 
 who in early life had been in the army, was appointed barrack-master, which appoint- 
 ment he held till his death, in 1817. Hard by are the stables built for the Duke of 
 Wellington : Hardwick, architect. In Park-row resided, about 1828, Olive, the soi- 
 disant Princess of Cumberland, and next door, Sir Richard Phillips. (Abridged chiefly 
 from Davis's Memorials of Knightsbridge, 1859.) 
 
 Lowndes-square occupies the site of a famous place of amusement Spring Gardens, 
 so called after the still more celebrated Spring Gardens at Charing - cr oss : the 
 World's End, at Knightsbridge, mentioned by Pepys and Congreve, is supposed to 
 have been a synonym of this fashionable house of entertainment. The building itself 
 survived till 1826. There was another famous place of entertainment in the same 
 neighbourhood, called Jenny's Whim. Its site is now occupied by St. George's-row, 
 near the Chelsea Water-works; and the house, distinguishable by its red-brick and lat- 
 tice-work, was not removed until November, 1865. Angelo says it was established by 
 a firework -maker, in the reign of George I. ; here were a large breakfast-room, bowling- 
 green, alcoves, and arbours ; a fish-pond, a cock -pit, and duck-hunting pond ; a grotto, 
 and a decanter of Dorchester for sixpence ; a large garden with amusing spring 
 deceptions ; and a piece of water with large fish or mermaids. 
 
 Knightsbridge-grove, approached through a stately avenue of trees from the road, 
 was a sporting house, where the notorious Mrs. Comely us endeavoured to retrieve her 
 fortunes after her failure at Carlisle House ; but she again failed in 1785. Ten years 
 after, she reappeared at Knightsbridge as Mrs. Smith, a retailer of asses' -milk, in a 
 suite of breakfast-rooms but in vain. 
 
 The existence of Belgravia only dates from 1825. Before that, the district was a 
 marshy tract, bounded by mud-banks, and partly occupied by market- gardens. The 
 sites of Belgrave and Grosvenor Squares were nursery-grounds. Grosvenor Bridge, 
 where the King's-road crosses the Westbourne, was not built till the time of Charles II. ; 
 and it was long called Bloody Bridge, from the number of murderous robberies there 
 committed. It is curious that the whole of this district was built over, not gradually, 
 but in two distinct movements one from 1770 to 1780, and the other, after a pause 
 of nearly fifty years, beginning in 1825, and still in operation.
 
 KENSINGTON GARDENS. 493 
 
 KENSINGTON GARDENS. 
 
 THESE delightful gardens, which, in our time, included an area of above 350 acres, 
 did not, when purchased by William III., soon after his accession, exceed 26 acres, 
 which he added to Hyde Park. In 1691 they were described by the Rev. Dr. 
 Hamilton, to the Society of Antiquaries, as " not great, nor abounding with fine plants. 
 The orange, lemon, myrtle, and what other trees they had there in summer, were all 
 removed to London or Mr. Wise's greenhouse at Brompton Park, a little mile from 
 there." Queen Anne added 30 acres, and planted the design as we now have it. 
 Evelyn notes : " Sept. 2nd, 1701. I went to Kensington and saw the houses, plan- 
 tations, and gardens, the work of Mr. Wise, who was there to receive me." (Diary, 
 vol. ii. p. 75.) Bowack, in 1705, described the gardens as "beautified with all the 
 elegances of art (statues and fountains excepted). There is a noble collection of 
 foreign plants, and fine neat greens, which makes it pleasant all the year ; the whole, 
 with the house, not being above 26 acres. Her Majesty has pleased lately to plant 
 near 30 acres more towards the north, separated from the rest only by a stately green- 
 house, not yet finished." Thus, previous to 1705, Kensington Gardens did not extend 
 farther north than the conservatory; and the eastern boundary was nearly in the line 
 of the broad walk which crosses before the east front of the palace. The kitchen 
 gardens, which formerly extended northward towards the gravel-pits, and the 30 acres 
 north of the conservatory, added by Queen Anne to the pleasure-gardens, may have 
 been the 55 acres "detached and severed from the park, lying in the north-west 
 corner thereof," granted in the 16th of Charles II. to Hamilton, Ranger of the Park, 
 and Birch, Auditor of Excise ; the same to be walled and planted with " pippins and 
 red-streaks," on condition of their furnishing apples or cider for the King's use. At 
 the end of the avenue leading from the south front of the palace to the wall on the 
 Kensington-road, is a large and lofty architectural alcove, built by Queen Anne's 
 orders ; so that Kensington Palace, in her reign, seems to have stood in the midst of 
 fruit and pleasure gardens, between the Kensington and Uxbridge roads. Addison, in 
 the Spectator, No 477, dignifies Wise and London as the heroic poets of gardening, 
 and is enraptured with their treatment of the upper garden at Kensington, which was 
 at first nothing but a gravel-pit ; the hollow basin and its little plantations, and a 
 circular mount of trees, as if scooped out of the hollow, greatly delighting the essayist. 
 Tickell opens his elegant eclogue with the oft-quoted glance at the morning promenade 
 of his day; where 
 
 " The dames of Britain oft in crowds repair 
 
 To gravel walks and unpolluted air : 
 
 Here, while the town in damps and darkness lies, 
 
 They breathe in sunshine, and see azure skies ; 
 
 Each walks with robes of various dyes bespread, 
 
 Seems from afar a moving tulip-bed, 
 
 Where rich brocades and glossy damasks glow, 
 
 And chintz, the rival of the showery bow." 
 
 Queen Anne's Banqueting -house, north of the palace, completed in 1705, is a fine 
 specimen of brickwork: the south front has rusticated columns supporting a Doric 
 pediment, and the ends have semicircular recesses. The interior, decorated with 
 Corinthian columns, was fitted up as a drawing-room, music-room, and ball-room ; and 
 thither the Queen was conveyed in her chair from the western end of the palace. 
 Here were given full-dress fetes a la Watteau, with a profusion of "brocaded robes, 
 hoops, fiy-caps, and fans," songs by the court lyrist, &c. But when the Court left 
 Kensington, Queen Anne's building was converted into an orangery and greenhouse. 
 (See PALACES.) 
 
 Caroline, queen of George II., formed the Serpentine, dividing the Palace grounds 
 from the open Hyde Park by a sunken fosse and wall, thus adding 300 acres to the 
 gardens or private grounds; the ha ha, now extending from the Bayswater-road to the 
 powder magazine, remaining identically as it was then formed. With the soil dug 
 was raised a mount to the south-east, with a revolving prospect-house. The Gardens 
 were planted and laid out by Brldgeman, who banished verdant sculpture, but adhered 
 to straight walks and clipped hedge, varied with a wilderness and open groves.
 
 494 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 A plan of 1762 shows the formal Dutch style on the north of the palace. On the . 
 north-east, a fosse and low wall reaching from the Uxbridge-road to the Serpentine at 
 once shut in the Gardens, and conducted the eye along their central vista, over the 
 Serpentine (formed between 1730 and 1733), to its extremity ; and across the Park to 
 the east of Queen Anne's gardens, immediately in front of the palace, a reservoir was 
 formed into " the round pond ;" thence long vistas were carried through the wood that 
 encircled it, to the head of the Serpentine, to the fosse and Bridgeman's ha-ha wall, 
 affording a view of the Park ; and to the mount already mentioned, which, with its 
 evergreens and temple, has disappeared within recollection. Bridgeman, " Surveyor of 
 the Royal Gardens," died in 1738 ; and was succeeded by Samuel Milward and John 
 Kent. Kensington Gardens long maintained its rural character ; for, in a minute of 
 the Board of Green Cloth, 1798, we read of a pension granted to a widow, whose hus- 
 band was accidentally shot while the keepers were hunting foxes in Kensington 
 Gardens. 
 
 After King William took up his abode in the palace, a court end of the town 
 gathered round it. The large gardens laid out by Queen Caroline were opened to the 
 public on Saturdays, when the King and Court went to Richmond ; all visitors were 
 then required to appear in full-dress. When the Court ceased to reside at Kensington, 
 the Gardens were thrown open in the spring and summer ; and next open throughout 
 the year, as at present. On stated days in the London season, military bands per- 
 form. Here is a refreshment-room : " Gentlemen are requested not to smoke in the 
 vicinity of the music platform and refreshment room, as much complaint has been 
 made by visitors to the gardens in consequence of this practice. Office of Works, 
 August 20, 1855." 
 
 Of late years Kensington Gardens have been greatly improved by drainage, re-laying 
 out, and the removal of walls and substitution of open iron railing. Viewed from 
 near the palace, eastward are three avenues through dense masses of ancient trees. 
 Immediately in front of the palace is a quaintly-designed flower-garden, between 
 which and Kensington are some stately old elm-trees. The broad walk, 50 feet in 
 breadth, was once the fashionable promenade. On the southern margin of the Gar- 
 dens is a walk, bordered by the newer and rarer kind of shrubs, each labelled with its 
 Latin and English name, and its country. The most picturesque portion of the Gar- 
 dens, however, is at the entrance from near the bridge over the Serpentine, where is a 
 delightful walk east of the water, beneath some noble old Spanish chestnut-trees. The 
 elegant stone bridge across the west end of the Serpentine was designed by Sir John 
 Rennie in 1826, and cost 36,5002. A pair of magnificent Coalbrook-dale iron gates ')/ 
 (from the Great Exhibition of 1851) has been erected adjoining the southern lodge. /' 
 
 An unornamented gate has been opened in the Bayswater-road. In 1860, a ride 
 was formed in the Gardens, which had hitherto (except during the Exhibition year 
 1851) been kept from equestrian intrusion. In 1861 was formed another ride, adapted 
 only for summer, and entering Kensington Gardens from Hyde Park, through the 
 gateway in the south-western arch of the bridge; proceeding along the edge of the 
 Serpentine between a bank of rhododendrons and fine trees ; then through a broad 
 and shady avenue, and returning along an open space to the entrance-gate. 
 
 On this side of the Gardens are the Ornamental Water-works, completed in 1861. 
 They consist of a small Italian garden, with an engine-house, 48 feet high, Italian in 
 style, and an engine to pump the water in to large reservoirs, with a jet in the centre 
 of each ; the tower end separated from the Serpentine by a screen, with vases ; and in 
 the centre a large octagonal fountain ; the whole supplying the Serpentine. The 
 sculpture here is by John Thomas ; and the engineer of the water-works, Hawksley. 
 
 A large portion on the west side of the Gardens, including the extensive kitchen- 
 gardens (which date from 1738), pursuant to 5 Viet., c. 1., has been appropriated to a 
 fine public road from Kensington to Xotting-hill : here are several handsome man- 
 sions, the gardens of those on the west side extending to the old red-brick wall of the 
 Palace kitchen-gardens, which remains. By the formation of this road, Kensington 
 Palace Gardens, the royal gardens were reduced to 261 acres, their present extent. 
 Their effect is not exhilarating, but a relief to the in-dwellers of London.
 
 KENT-STREET, SOUTHWARK KENTISH TOWN. 495 
 
 KENT- STREET, SOUTHWARD, 
 
 ORIGINALLY " Kentish-street," is a wretched and profligate part of St. George's 
 parish. In 1633 it was described as " very long and ill-built, chiefly inhabited 
 by broom-men and mumpers ;" and for ages it has been noted for its turners' shops, 
 and broom and heath yards. Evelyn tells of one Burton, a broom-man, and his 
 wife, who sold kitchen-stuff in Kent-street, whom God so blessed that Burton became 
 a very rich and a very honest man, and Sheriff of Surrey. At the east end of Kent- 
 street, in 1847, was unearthed a pointed arched bridge of the 15th century, probably 
 erected by the monks of Bermondsey Abbey, lords of the manor. In Rocque's Map, 
 1750 (when the Kent-road was lined with hedge-rows), this arch, called Lock's-bridge, 
 from being near the Lock Hospital, carries the road over a stream which runs from 
 Newington-fields to Bermondsey. Yet, what long lines of conquest and devotion, of 
 turmoil and rebellion, of victory, gorgeous pageantry, and grim death, have poured 
 through this narrow inlet of old London! The Roman invader came along the 
 rich marshy ground now supporting Kent-street (says Bagford, in a letter to his 
 brother-antiquary, Hearne) j thousands of pious and weary pilgrims have passed along 
 this causeway to St. Thomas's of Canterbury; here the Black Prince rode with his 
 royal captive from Poictiers, and the victor of Agincourt was carried in kingly state to 
 his last earthly bourne. By this route Cade advanced with his 20,000 insurgents 
 from Blackheath to South wark j and the ill-fated Wyat marched to discomfiture and 
 death. To the formation of the Dover-road, in our tune, Kent-street continued 
 part of the great way from Dover and the Continent to the Metropolis, 
 
 Smollett, in his Travels, 1766, describes " the avenue to London by the way of Kent-street, which is 
 a most disgraceful entrance to such an opulent city. A foreigner, in passing through this beggarly 
 and ruinous suburb, conceives such an idea of misery and meanness, as all the wealth and magnificence 
 of London and Westminster are afterwards unable to destroy. A friend of mine, who brought a Parisian 
 from Dover in his own post-chaise, contrived to enter Southwark after it was dark, that his friend 
 might not perceive the nakedness of this quarter." 
 
 KENTISH TOWN, 
 
 A HAMLET of St. Pancras, and a prebendal manor of St. Paul's, was formerly 
 written Kaunteloe, and is the property of the Camden family. Here was the 
 Castle tavern, which had a Perpendicular stone chimney-piece ; the house was taken 
 down in 1849 : close to its southern wall was a sycamore planted by Lord Nelson, when 
 a boy, at the entrance to his uncle's cottage; the tree was spared. Opposite were 
 the old Assembly-rooms, taken down in 1852 : here was a table, with an inscription by 
 an invalid, who recovered his health by walking to this spot every morning to take 
 his breakfast in front of the house. Kentish Town Chapel, originally built by Wyatt 
 in 1784, has been enlarged and altered to the Early Decorated style : here is buried 
 Grignon, the engraver. (See p. 212.) In 1848, was built here a large Congregational 
 Nonconformist Chapel, in ecclesiastical style. In Gospel-terrace is the Roman Catholic 
 Chapel of St. Alexis, established 1847. In 1848 were erected the National Infant and 
 Sunday Schools, by Hakewill, upon the plan of the Committee of Privy Council on 
 Education ; the site is part of an estate bequeathed by the witty divine, Dr. South, to 
 Christ Church, Oxford. Near Highgate Rise is the Grove, where Charles Mathews 
 the elder made his -collection of paintings, prints, and other memorials of theatrical 
 history, now at the Garrick Club-house. Nearly opposite (at the corner of Swain's- 
 lane, leading to the Highgate and Kentish Town Cemetery see p. 82), was " a minia- 
 ture Wanstead House" (the design copied from Wanstead House, Essex), the villa of 
 Mr. Philip Hurd, of the Inner Temple, who collected here a costly library, including 
 the celebrated Breviarium Romanum, purchased by him, in 1827, from Mr. Dent's 
 library, for 378Z. : it consists of more than 500 leaves of vellum, illuminated by Flemish 
 painters in Spain, of the fifteenth century, with miniatures and borders of flowers, fruit, 
 and grotesque figures, upon a gold ground. (See Dibdin's Bibliographical Decameron, 
 vol. i. pp. 163-7.) The villa was taken down in 1851, and upon the site are built 
 handsome houses. From the rear of Mr. Kurd's house, some twenty-five years since,
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 not a bouse could be seen, so rural was this neighbourhood ; now little can be seen but 
 bricks and mortar. The river Fleet, which runs in the rear of the hamlet, has its 
 source from springs on the south side of the hill between Hampstead and Highgate. In 
 July, 1846, were sold 27 acres of building-ground in Gospel-Oak and Five-Acre Fields, 
 between Kentish Town and Hampstead, for nearly 400Z. an acre. Beneath the Gospel 
 Oak preached some of our earliest Reformers, and Whitefield the Methodist. 
 
 In the last century, the road between the metropolis and Kentish Town was beset with highwaymen. 
 In the Morning Chronicle and London Advertiser, Jan. 9, 1773, appears : " Thursday night some villains 
 robbed the Kentish Town stage, and stripped the passengers of their money, watches, and buckles. 
 In the hurry they spared the pockets of Mr. Corbyn, the druggist; but he, content to have neighbour's 
 fare, called out to one of the rogues, ' Stop, friend, you have forgot to take my money !' " Notes and 
 Queries, No. 62. 
 
 The original "Mother Bed Cap," Kentish Town, was a place of terror to travellers, and is believed 
 to have been the " Mother Damnable " of Kentish Town in early days ; at this house " Moll Cutpurse," 
 the highwayman of the time of Oliver Cromwell, dismounted and frequently lodged. Smith's Book for 
 a Bainy Day, p. 20. 
 
 Camden Town, begun 1791, built on the estate of the Marquis Camden ; and Somers 
 Town, begun 1786, on the estate of Earl Somers are also hamlets of Paucras parish, 
 and both are now united with London, and are portions of the metropolis. 
 
 Walpole writes, June 8, 1791 : " There will soon be one street from London to Brentford ; ay, and from 
 London to every village ten miles round ! Lord Camden has just let ground at Kentish Town for 
 building fourteen hundred houses nor do I wonder ; London is, I am certain, much fuller than ever 
 I saw it. I have twice this spring been going to stop my coach in Piccadilly, to inquire what was the 
 matter, thinking there was a mob not at all ; it was only passengers." , 
 
 KILBURN, 
 
 A HAMLET about two and a half miles north-west from London, at the south- 
 western extremity of the parish of Hampstead, is named from Cold-bourne, a 
 stream which rises near West End, and passes through Kilburn to Bayswater ; and 
 after supplying the Serpentine reservoir in Hyde Park, flows into the Thames at 
 Ranelagh. Kilburn has its station upon the London and North- Western Railway. In 
 the last century, the place was famed for its mineral spring (Kilburn Wells), which 
 rises about 12 feet below the surface, and is enclosed in a brick reservoir, the door-arch 
 of which bears on its keystone 1714. The water is more strongly impregnated with 
 carbonic acid gas than any other known spring in England. In 1837 was taken down 
 a cottage at Kilburn in which Oliver Goldsmith had resided. 
 
 Kilburn originated from Godwyn, a hermit, who, temp. Henry II, built a cell near the little rivulet 
 called Cuneburna, Keeleboume, Coldboume, and Kiiboivrne, on a site surrounded with wood. Between 
 1128 and 1134, Godwyn granted his hermitage and adjoining lands to the conventual church of St. Peter 
 at Westminster, who soon after assigned the property to Emma, Gunilda, and Cristina, maids-of-honour 
 to Maud (queen of Henry I.), herself a Benedictine nun; and hence the cell of the anchorite became a 
 nunnery; Godwyn being appointed its master or warden, and guardian of the maidens, for his life. 
 Certain estates were granted to the nuns in South wark and Knightsbridge (which manor still belongs 
 to Westminster), the latter property in the place called Gara, probably Kensington Gore. Provisions, 
 kitchen-fare, wine, mead, and beer were also assigned; and in return the vestals prayed for St. Edward 
 the Confessor, and the church at Westminster. 
 
 At the Dissolution, in 1536, the "Nonre of Kilbonme" was surrendered; when the inventory shows 
 the chamber furniture to have included " bedsteddes, standing bedd wt 4 postes, fetberbedds, matteres, 
 cov'lettes, wollen blankettes, bolsters, pillowes of downe, sheetes," &c. The name of the last prioress 
 was Anne Browne. Soon after the King assigned the priory estate, with other lands, to Weston, prior of 
 the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem, in exchange for Paris Garden in Surrey, &c. The church was 
 dedicated to St. Mary and St. John the Baptist ; the latter, in his camel-hair garment, is portrayed on 
 the priory seal. The Abbey Farm at Kilburn includes the site of the priory: the only view known of 
 the conventual buildings is an etching, date 1722. 
 
 Several relics, including pieces of pottery, a few coins, and a bronze vessel, all 
 mediaeval, were found on the Priory site in the autumn of 1852, and shown to the 
 Archaeological Institute. In the Graphic and Historical Illustrator, pp. 336-340, is 
 a good account of Kilburn Priory, mostly derived from Park's Hampstead. 
 
 LAMBETH, 
 
 ALSO called LambUth, Lambhyde, and Lambhei, is probably derived from lam, dirt, 
 and hyd or Jiythe, a haven ; or from lamb and Tiythe. It was anciently a village 
 of Surrey, but is now united with Southwark ; and is one of the metropolitan boroughs, 
 returning two members to Parliament under the lleibrin Act of 1832. The parish
 
 LAMBETH. 497 
 
 ranges along the south bank of the Thames from Vauxhall towards Southwark, and 
 extends to Norwood, Streatham, and Croydon; in Aubrey's time it included part of the 
 forest of oaks called Norwood, belonging to the see of Canterbury, wherein was the 
 Vicar's Oak (cut down in 1679), at which point four parishes meet. 
 
 In the earliest historical times, the greater part of modern Lambeth must have been 
 a swamp, overflowed by every tide, and forming a vast lake at high water. The Romans 
 have the credit of having embanked the Thames on the south side, and of having done 
 something towards draining the marsh. Roman remains have been discovered at St. 
 George's Fields and at Kennington ; and some antiquaries have thought that it was 
 among the Lambeth marshes that Plautius got entangled after his victory over the 
 Britons, and tliat he retired thence to the strong entrenchment still to be traced in the 
 picturesque upland of Keston, near Bromley. The great Roman road from the south 
 coast at Newhaven, through East Grinsted to London, entered Lambeth at Brixton 
 (Brixii lapidem), crossed Kennington Common to Newington, and there divided ; the 
 eastern branch going to Southwark, and the western across St. George's Fields toStangate, 
 where was a ferry. In 1016, Canute laid siege to London, and finding the east side of the 
 bridge impregnable, conveyed his ships through a channel (" Canute's Trench") dug in, 
 the marshes south of the Thames, so as to attack it from the west. Maitland, writing 
 in 1739, imagined that he had succeeded in tracing this canal from Rotherhithe to 
 Newington Butts, and thence to the river at Vauxhall. But two more probable and 
 far shorter courses have been indicated for this channel, neither of which would reach 
 Lambeth at all. Is it not possible, we ask, that the draining works executed by 
 the Romans left certain water-courses which might have been made available for the 
 purpose of this stratagem by the invading fleet ? A few years later, in 1041, Kenning- 
 ton the " King's Town" was the scene of the sudden death of Hardicanute. There 
 was a royal palace there, in which the nuptials of two scions of noble Danish families 
 were celebrated. The King expired (says the Saxon Chronicle) " with a tremendous 
 struggle" " as he stood drinking" not without suspicion of poison. A popular holiday 
 commemorated this event for many generations ; and we have records of " Hog's Tide" 
 or " Hock Tide" being kept as late as 1618. In Lambeth parish, the Churchwardens' 
 Accounts show entries, till 1566, of sums gathered at these festivals and applied to the 
 repairs of the church. Harold, in 1062, granted the manor of Lambehythe to Waltham 
 Abbey ; and in Domesday there are mentioned twelve villans, twenty-seven bordars, a 
 church, and nineteen burgesses in London, and wood for three hogs ; and the value of 
 the manor is stated at III. It passed, after sundry changes, to Bishop Gundulph, of 
 Rochester, who taxed it with an annual supply of 500 lampreys ; and his successor 
 demanded, in addition, a yearly salmon to be caught of course off the river boundary. 
 In 1197 the manor came by exchange into the hands of the Archbishops of Canterbury, 
 with whom it has remained ever since. King John gave leave for the establishment 
 within it of a weekly market and a Fair of fifteen days, on condition that it would not 
 be prejudicial to the City of London. This Fair was suppressed by Archbishop Herring in 
 1757. A strange attempt was made, at the close of the twelfth century, by Archbishop 
 Baldwin, to found somewhere in Lambeth a collegiate church of secular canons which 
 should humble the refractory monks of Canterbury by superseding them in their right 
 of election to the metropolitan see. The scheme was vehemently opposed, and fope 
 Celestine being prevailed upon to withdraw the sanction granted by his predecessor 
 Urban, the buildings were razed by the mob. After many intrigues, the design was 
 finally abandoned. We derive this precis of the early history of Lambeth from a 
 paper in the Saturday Review. 
 
 Lambeth mother-church (St. Mary's) adjoins the Palace, and is described at p. 185. 
 Beneath its walls, Mary, queen of James II., found shelter with her infant son, having 
 crossed the river by the horse-ferry from Westminster : here the Queen remained a 
 whole hour in the rain on the night of December 9, 1688, until a coach arrived from 
 the next inn, and conveyed her to Gravesend, whence she sailed for France. St. 
 Mary's Church was rebuilt in 1851-2, save the tower, in the same style as formerly, 
 except the open timber roof. Memorial and other windows are filled with stained 
 glass ; " the Pedlar and his Dog " has been replaced, and the tombs and monumental 
 brasses have been restored. The district churches have little that is noteworthy. 
 
 K K
 
 498 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The site of St. John's, Waterloo-road, was a swamp and horse-pond : the church (built 1823-4) has a 
 peal of eight bells, tenor 1900 Ibs. weight : in a vault is buried Robert William Elliston, the comedian 
 (d. 1831). The district commences at the middle of Westminster Bridge, whence an imaginary boun- 
 dary-line passes through the middle of the river Thames to Waterloo Bridge. 
 
 On the south side of Church-street was Norfolk House, the mansion of the Earl of 
 Norfolk temp. Edward I. : here resided the celebrated Earl of Surrey when under the 
 tuition of John Leland, the antiquary. The house has long been demolished, and its site 
 and grounds occupied by Norfolk-row and Hodges's distillery. The Dukes of Norfolk 
 also had in Lambeth, on the banks of the Thames, a garden, which was let to Boydell 
 Cuper, who opened it as Cuper's Gardens, and decorated it with some fragments of the 
 Arundelian marbles, given him by the Earl of Arundel, whose gardener he had been. 
 Other fragments of the sculptures were set up in a piece of ground adjoining, and 
 afterwards were buried with rubbish from the ruins of St. Paul's Cathedral, then re- 
 building by Wren ; but the sculptures were subsequently disinterred, and the site was 
 let to Messrs. Beaufoy for their Vinegar-works removed to South Lambeth on the 
 erection of Waterloo Bridge. 
 
 Carlisle Street, Lane, and Chapel, keep in memory Carlisle House, the palace 
 of the Bishops of Kochester from the thirteenth to the sixteenth century, when 
 Henry VIII. granted it to the see of Carlisle. Here, in 1531, Richard Roose or Rose, 
 a cook, poisoned seventeen persons ; for which he was attainted of treason and boiled to 
 death in Smithfield, by an ex post facto law passed for the purpose, but repealed in the 
 next reign. On the grounds of Carlisle House was subsequently built a pottery, 
 which existed temp. George II. The house then became a tavern, brothel, dancing- 
 school, and academy ; and was taken down in the year 1827. 
 
 Lambeth has long been celebrated for its places of public amusement. Vauxhall 
 Gardens are mentioned by Evelyn, in his Diary, July 2, 1661 : " I went to see the 
 New Spring Garden, at Lambeth, a pretty contrived plantation ;" and the place was 
 to the last licensed annually as " the Spring Garden, Vauxhall." It was finally closed 
 in 1859 ; and upon the site have been built the beautiful church of St. Peter ; a School 
 of Art, and streets of houses. Belvedere House and Gardens* adjoined Cuper's 
 Gardens in Queen Anne's reign ; and still further west were Cumberland Tea- Gardens 
 (named after the great Duke), which existed until 1813 ; their site is now crossed 
 by Vauxhall Bridge-road. The Dog and Duck dates from 1617, the year upon the 
 sign-stone in the garden-wall of Bethlem Hospital (see pp. 51-54) : here is preserved 
 a drawing of the old tavern and its grounds. The Hercules Inn and Gardens occu- 
 pied the site of the Asylum for Female Orphans, opened in 1758 j and opposite were 
 the Apollo Gardens and the Temple of Flora, Mount-row, opened 1788. A century 
 earlier there existed, in King William's reign, Lambeth Wells, in Three Coney Walk, 
 now Lambeth Walk ; it was reputed for its mineral waters, sold at a penny a quart, 
 " the same price paid by St. Thomas's Hospital." About 1750 a musical society was 
 held here, and lectures and experiments were given on natural philosophy by Erasmus 
 King, who had been coachman to Dr. Desaguliers. In Stangate are the Sower 
 Saloon, with its theatre and music-room ; and the Canterbury (Music) Hall. 
 
 Astley's Amphitheatre originated with Philip Astley, who in 1763 commenced 
 horsemanship in an open field near Glover's "Halfpenny Hatch" at Lambeth. 
 Thence Astley removed to the site of the present theatre, Westminster Bridge-road, 
 when his ground-landlord had a preserve or breed of pheasants near the spot : the 
 theatre was burnt in 1794, 1803, and 1841. The Victoria Theatre, formerly the 
 Coburg, opened in 1818, is built on ground held of the manor of Lambeth : the site 
 was a swampy open field ; and part of the stone materials of the old Savoy Palace, 
 Strand, then being cleared away, was used for the theatre foundation. The Royal 
 Circus, St. George's Fields, was built in 1781, by Dibdin and Hughes, to compete with 
 Astley ; the Circus was burnt in 1805, and rebuilt as the Surrey Theatre in 1806 ; 
 burnt in 1865, and rebuilt in the same year. 
 
 The Asylum for Female Orphans, just mentioned, was established chiefly through 
 Sir John Fielding, the police-magistrate, whose portrait, attributed to Hogarth, was 
 
 * Dr. Rawlinson, in his additions to Aubrey's Surrey (written in 1719), imagines Belvedere Gardens 
 to have been the site of a taw-mill erected in Cromwell's time, and which he protected by Act of 
 Parliament.
 
 LAMBETH. 499 
 
 preserved there ; with a head of George III. and his youngest son, the Duke of Cam- 
 bridge, who was long president of the institution : in the chapel is a tahlet to his memory* 
 The site cost the charity 16,000?.; premises rebuilt 1826; removed to Beddington in 186&, 
 
 In Oakley-street, at the Oakley Arms, November 16, 1802, Colonel Edward Marcus Despard and 
 thirty-two other persons were apprehended on a charge of high treason : and in February following, th 
 Colonel, with nine associates, were tried by a special commission at the Surrey Sessions House; and 
 being all found guilty, seven, including Despard, were executed, February 21, on the top of Horse- 
 monger-lane Gaol. 
 
 Lambeth was long noted as the residence of astrologers. At Tradescant's house, in 
 South Lambeth-road, lived Elias Ashmole, who won Aubrey over to astrology (se 
 pp. 309 and 396). Simon Forman's burial is entered in the Lambeth parish-register -, 
 he died on the day he had prognosticated. Lilly says, Forman wrote in a book left 
 behind him : " This I made the devil write with his own hand in Lambeth Fields, 
 1569, in June or July, as I now remember." Captain Bubb, contemporary with 
 Forman, dwelt in Lambeth Marsh, and " resolved horary questions astrologically," a 
 ladder which raised him to the pillory. At the north corner of O&lcot-alley lived 
 Francis Moore, astrologer, physician, and schoolmaster, and the original author of 
 " Moore's Almanack." Next to Tradescant's house lived the learned Dr. Ducarel, one 
 of the earliest Fellows of the Society of Antiquaries, and librarian at Lambeth Palace. 
 
 Lambeth Marsh, by Hollar's map, extended from near Stangate to Broadwall ; and 
 was bounded by the river on the north-west, and the ancient way or road called Lam- 
 beth Marsh on the south-east. The names of Narrow-wall and Broad-wall were 
 derived from the embankments subsequently made. 
 
 In cutting for the railway and lines of sewerage at the great terminus near York-road (a space in size 
 equal to Grosvenor-square), there was found a large deposit from the inundations of the Thames, con- 
 taining gravel-stones and dark wet clay, or pressed river-mud, imbedding fragments of twigs, bones, 
 pieces of Roman tile, &c. 
 
 Narrow-wall, Vine-street, and Cornwall-road are delineated in views of these 
 suburbs in Queen Elizabeth's reign : Vine-street is from eight to ten feet below the level 
 of the adjacent streets. In the Marsh stood, until 1823, an old house, called Bonner's 
 house, which was traditionally known as the residence of Bishop Bonner. Near the 
 Marsh resided Thomas Bushell, a man of scientific attainments, who was a friend of 
 Lord Chancellor Bacon. He obtained from Charles I. a grant to coin silver money 
 for the purposes of the king, when the use of his Mint at the Tower was denied to the 
 king. When Oliver Cromwell assumed the protectorate, Thomas Bushell hid himself in 
 this house, which it seems had a turret upon it. A large garret extended the length 
 of the premises ; in this the philosopher lay hid for upwards of a year. This apart- 
 ment he had hung with black ; at one end was a skeleton extended on a mattress : at 
 the other was a low bed, on which he slept ; and on the dismal hangings of the wall 
 were depicted several emblems of mortality. At the Restoration, Charles II. supported 
 Bushell in some of his speculations. He died in 1674, eighty years of age, and was 
 buried in the little cloisters of Westminster Abbey. 
 
 At South Lambeth, upon the site of Sir Noel Caron's mansion and deer-park, are 
 Seavfoy's Vinegar and Wine Works. Here were a vessel of sweet wine containing 
 59,109 gallons, and another of vinegar of 56,799 gallons ; the lesser of which exceeded 
 the famous Heidelberg tun by 40 barrels. Mr. Beaufoy, F.R.S., was an eminent 
 mathematician, and a munificent patron of education; his bust is placed in the 
 Council Chamber, Guildhall. In Lambeth Walk, close upon the South- Western Rail- 
 way, are the Lambeth Ragged Schools, founded in 1851 by Mr. Beaufoy, at the 
 expense of 10,OOOZ., and 4QOOZ. endowment, as a memorial of the benevolent Mrs. 
 Beaufoy, the wife of the founder. 
 
 On part of the site of Belvedere House and Gardens were established, in 1785, the 
 Lambeth Water-works, first taking their water from the borders of the Thames, then 
 from its centre, near Hungerford Bridge, by a cast-iron conduit-pipe 42 inches in 
 diameter ; whence, in 1852, the works were removed to Seething Wells, Ditton, 23 
 miles by the river-course from London Bridge. Thence the water is supplied to the 
 Company's reservoirs at Brixton, lOf miles, by steam pumping-engines, at the rate of 
 10,000,000 gallons daily ; from these reservoirs, 100 feet above the Thames, the water 
 flows by its own gravity through the mains; but at Norwood it is lifted by steam- 
 power 350 feet, or the height of St. Paul's Cathedral, above the supplying river. 
 
 K K 2
 
 500 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 In Belvedere-road is Goding's Ale Brewery, built in 1836 : the upper floor is an 
 immense tank for water, supplying the floor below, where the boiled liquor is cooled ; 
 it then descends into fermenting tuns in the story beneath, next to the floor for fining, 
 and lastly to the cellar or store-vats. 
 
 Plate-glass for mirrors and coach-windows was first made, in 1670, by Venetian 
 artists, with Rosetti at their head, under the patronage of the second Duke of Buck- 
 ingham, at Fox-hall (Vauxhall), with great success, " so as to excel the Venetians, or 
 any other nation, in blown plate-glass." But about 1780 the establishment was 
 broken up, and a descendant of Rosetti's left in extreme poverty. (Hist, of Lambeth, 
 1786.) The works stood on the site of Vauxhall-square. Some of the finest " Vaux- 
 hall plates " are to be seen in the Speaker's state-coach. The Falcon Glass-house, 
 Holland- street, Blackfriars-road, occupies the site of the tide-mill of the old manor of 
 Paris Garden, and has existed more than a century ; here is made about a fortieth part 
 of the flint-glass manufactured in England.* 
 
 Lambeth has long been famed for its stone-ware. The Vauxhall Pottery, esta- 
 blished two centuries since, by two Dutchmen, for the manufacture of old Delft ware, is 
 probably the origin of all our existing potteries. Two other Potteries at Lambeth 
 were commenced in 1730 and 1741. The potters procure the clay from Devon and 
 Dorset ; and the flint, already ground, from Staflbrdshire. Salt-glazed stoneware is 
 made in Lambeth of the yearly value of 100,0002., of which more than one-half is paid 
 for labour ; at Green's manufactory are made chemical vessels for holding from 300 
 to 400 gallons. 
 
 In ILunt's Chemical Works, High-street, are combined the crushing of bones and 
 the grinding of mustard, with the manufacture of colours, soap, and bone brushes ; and 
 stearine, glue, hartshorn, and phosphate of lime are obtained by steam-power from the 
 refuse of slaughtered cattle. Hawes's Soap and Candle Works, at the Old Royal 
 Barge House, have existed for 90 years. 
 
 iruiii uitt UUnBb vi Auraa, iiuiuvu juvui uat^u^ui int. wnan ;IL vaujuuui. me uii uemg cuuvertcu Uj 
 
 chemical processes into stearine, is freed from oleic acid by enormous pressure ; is liquefied by steam, 
 and then conveyed into the moulding machinery, by which 800 miles of wicks are continually being 
 
 Shot is made in the lofty towers immediately above and below Waterloo Bridge. 
 The height of the quadrangular tower is 150 feet: the upper floor is a room 
 wherein the alloy of arsenic and lead is melted by a furnace; the fluid metal is then 
 ladled into a kind of cullender, through the holes of which it falls like rain for about 
 130 feet into water at the lower floor of the building. An iron staircase leads from 
 the bottom to the top of the tower : on Jan. 5, 1826, the upper floor was destroyed by 
 fire, which happening at night, presented a magnificent effect. The circular shot- 
 tower, 100 feet high, is strikingly beautiful. Mr. Hosking, the architect, considers 
 this structure to rival the Monument : " They are both," he observes, " of cylindrical 
 form ; but the one is crowned by a square abacus, and the other by a bold cornice, 
 which follows its own outline (i.e. of the tower) : the greater simplicity and conse- 
 quent beauty of the latter is such as to strike the most unobservant." 
 
 Maudslay and Field's Marine Steam Engine Works, in the Westminster-road, were 
 commenced in 1810, and employ from 1300 to 1400 workmen, besides steam-power 
 for the heavy labour. Here are fashioned immense metal screws, like the double tail 
 of a whale ; parts of engines, several tons weight, are lifted by cranes, to be adjusted 
 and joined together ; immense cylinders are bored and polished, of such diameter that 
 a man might almost walk upright through them. Engines cut and shave hard iron, as 
 if it were soft as wax ; cutting instruments have a force of thirty tons ; steam -hammers 
 are of ten, twenty, and thirty cwt. ; thick metal plates are pierced by rolling mills and 
 machinery to be fastened with red-hot rivets. 
 
 * Mr. .Apsley Pellatt, the proprietor of the Falcon Works, elected M.P. for Southwark in 1852, 
 published Curiosities of Glass-making (1849) j the experiences of a lifetime unceasingly devoted to the 
 studj and practice of the art.
 
 LAMBETH PALACE. 501 
 
 In Duke-street, Stamford-street, are Clowes's Printing Works and Foundry, the 
 largest in the world, commenced by Augustus Applegath, tbe eminent engineer, and 
 greatly extended by bis successors, Messrs. Clowes. 
 
 Tbe " New Cut," from Westminster to Blackfriars-road, has become a street within 
 the recollection of the writer, who remembers low-lying-fields, with a large windmill, 
 east of the raised roadway. Pedlar's Acre (for the name see p. 185), a portion of 
 the Marsh, by old admeasurement contains 1 acre 17 poles, with a frontage on the 
 Thames. In 1504, by the churchwardens' accounts, it was an osier-bed, and in 1623, 
 Church Osiers; the name of Pedlar's Acre does not occur until 1690, probably from 
 its being the squatting-place of pedlars, as were the New Cut fields within memory. 
 
 In 1504-5, the annual rent of this estate was 2s. 8d. ; in 1506, 4. ; 1520, 6*. ; in 1556, 6. 8d. ; in 1564, 
 13*. 4d. ; in 1581, II. 6*. 8d. ; and in 1651, 4?., at about which sum it continued until the commencement 
 of the last century. After the draining of Lambeth Marsh, and the erection of Westminster and Black- 
 friars Bridges, Pedlar's Acre, in 1752, was held on a long 1 lease at a yearly rent of 100?. and 8001. fine. 
 In 1813, when it had been much built upon, it was let by auction for twenty-one years, in three lots, at 
 781. per annum, and 6000?. premium. The rents and proceeds are applied to parochial purposes, under 
 the Act 7 Geo. IV. cap. 46. 
 
 At Narrow Wall flourished for nearly 60 years Coade's Manufactory of burnt Artifi- 
 cial Stone (a revival of terra-cotta), invented by the elder Bacon, the sculptor ; and 
 first established by Mrs. Coade, from Lyme Regis, in 1769. Of this material are the 
 bas-relief in the pediment over the western portico at Greenwich Hospital, represent- 
 ing the Death of Nelson, designed by West, and executed by Bacon and Panzetta ; 
 and the rood-screen or loft at St. George's Chapel, Windsor. The manufacture (now 
 Austin and Seeley's) has been removed to the New-road. 
 
 Lambeth, a few years since a feverish marsh, has been greatly improved by 
 drainage: Maudslay's Foundry was raised on pillars from the swamp, where at 
 times a boat might have floated ; it is now, by drainage, firm and dry at all seasons. 
 Lett's Timber Wharf, from the time of Queen Elizabeth until the beginning of this 
 century, lay amidst ponds and marsh-streams, but is now dry and healthy. Here are 
 tbe timber- wharves of Messrs. Gabriel; Alderman Gabriel, Lord Mayor 1866-7. 
 
 Across this thickly-peopled district extends the South-Western Railway from its 
 terminus in the Waterloo-road to Nine Elms, 2 miles 50 yards, executed at a cost of 
 800,000/. ; and along the river-bank, anaconda-like, upon arches, trends the extension 
 of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, and the South Eastern Railway, from 
 London Bridge. 
 
 LAMEETR PALACE, 
 
 TAMBETH HOUSE of old, has been for six and a half centuries the mansion of 
 -" the Archbishops of Canterbury, who had resided at Lambeth seventy years pre- 
 viously; and in 1197 obtained the entire manor, by exchange with the Bishop of 
 Rochester for certain lands in Kent. Hence the present palace is the manor-house ; 
 and, with the gardens and grounds, forms an extra-parochial district. 
 
 The oldest part of Lambeth Palace is the Chapel, and a Crypt, supposed to be a 
 portion of the ancient manor-house, built by Archbishop Hubert Walter about 1190. 
 Archbishops Langton, Boniface, Arundel, Chicheley, Stafford, Morton, Warham, 
 Cranmer, Pole, Parker, and Bancroft, expended great sums on the palace, as have 
 succeeding archbishops. Cranmer's additions included " the Steward's Parlour," and 
 "a summer-house in the garden of exquisite workmanship;" both which have disap- 
 peared. In Wat Tyler's rebellion, " the commons from Essex" plundered the palace, 
 and beheaded the archbishop, Sudbury, on Tower Hill. In 1642, the Parliamentary 
 soldiers dismantled the Chapel, broke the painted windows, which it was alleged 
 Archbishop Laud had restored "by their like in the mass-book;" while Laud's 
 " books and goods were seized on, and even his very diary taken by force out of his 
 pocket." The palace was then used as a prison for the Royalists ; and after its sale 
 by the Parliament for 7073?"., the Chapel was converted into a dancing-room, and 
 the Great Hall demolished. The latter was rebuilt by Archbishop Juxon, at the 
 charge of 10,500/. The palace was attacked by the rioters of 1780, when it was 
 protected by a detachment of Guards, and subsequently by a militia regiment as a
 
 502 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 garrison for some weeks. Between 1828 and 1848 Archbishop Howley rebuilt the 
 habitable portion of the palace, and restored other parts, at a cost of 60,0002. The 
 garden-front is of Tudor character ; and with its bays and enriched windows, battle- 
 ments, gables, towers, and clustered chimney-shafts, is very picturesque. 
 
 The Gate-house, built by Archbishop Morton about 1490, consists of an embattled 
 centre and two immense square towers, of fine red brick with stone dressings, and a 
 spacious Tudor arched gateway and postern. The towers are ascended by spiral stone 
 staircases, leading to the Record-room containing many of the archives of the see of 
 Canterbury. Adjoining the archway is a small prison-room, with high and narrow 
 windows, and thick stone walls to which are fastened three strong iron rings ; and in 
 the wall are cuttings, including |(0|rn (Srafton, and a cross and other figures near it. 
 The walls and towers of the gate-house, and the ancient brick wall on the Thames 
 side, are chequered with crosses in glazed bricks. 
 
 At this gate the dole immemorially given to the poor by the Archbishops of Canterbury is constantly 
 distributed. It consists of fifteen quartern loaves, nine stone of beef, and five shillings worth of half- 
 pence, divided into three equal portions, and distributed every Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday, among 
 thirty poor parishioners of Lambeth ; the beef being made into broth and served in pitchers. 
 
 The Lollards' Tower, on the left of the outer court, is embattled, and chiefly of 
 dark-red brick, faced with stone on its outer sides. It was built (1434-5) by Arch- 
 bishop Chicheley, whose arms are sculptured on the outer wall on the Thames side; 
 beneath them is a Gothic niche, wherein formerly stood the image of St. Thomas & 
 Becket. In this tower is the Post-room, with a flat and panelled ceiling, carved with 
 angels and scrolls, and a head resembling that of Henry VIII. On the east side is an 
 entrance to the Chapel ; and through a small door you ascend by a steep spiral stair- 
 case to the Lollards' Prison (in an adjoining square tower on the north side), entering 
 by a narrow, low, pointed archway of stone, with an oaken inner and outer door, each 
 3f inches thick, closely studded with iron rivets and fastenings. This chamber is 
 nearly 15 feet in length, by 11 feet in width, and 8 feet high ; and has two narrow 
 windows, and a small fireplace and chimney. About breast-high are fixed in the walls 
 eight large iron rings ; and upon the oaken wainscoting are incisions of initials, names, 
 short sentences, crosses, cubes, &c., cut by the unhappy captives. It is no longer con- 
 
 (Incisions upon the wall of Lollards' Tower.) 
 
 sidered that they were exclusively Lollards, nor is there positive evidence that these 
 followers of Wicliffe were imprisoned here ; although the registers of the see of Can- 
 terbury record several proceedings against the sect, and Wicliffe himself is said to have 
 been examined in the Chapel at Lambeth. Archbishop Arundel was the fiercest per- 
 secutor of the Lollards, and his successor, Chicheley, built " the Lollards' Tower," pos- 
 sibly on the site of other prisons here, which the registers of the see prove the arch- 
 bishops to have possessed. To Lambeth House the Popish prelates, Tunstall and" 
 Thirlby, were committed by Queen Elizabeth : and here were confined the Earl of 
 Essex ; the Earls of Chesterfield and Derby ; Sir Thomas Armstrong, afterwards 
 executed for participation in the Duke of Monmouth's rebellion j Dr. Allestry, the 
 eminent divine ; and Richard Lovelace, the poet. In the three stories above the Post- 
 room are apartments for the archbishop's chaplains and librarian. 
 
 The Chapel, entered from the Post-room, is divided by an elaborately carved screen ; 
 but the arched roof is concealed by flat panelling, bearing the arms of Laud, Juxon, 
 and Cornwallis. At the east end are five long lancet-shaped lights, filled with 
 diapered modern glass j and at each side are three triplicated windows, resembling 
 those of the Temple Church. Here are the archbishop's stall, seats for the officers of 
 his household, and below for the male servants ; the females being seated in the outer 
 chapel, in a small gallery, where was formerly an organ. In front of the altar is 
 buried Archbishop Parker, beneath a marble slab, inscribed, " Corpus Matthsei archi-
 
 LAMBETK PALACE, 503 
 
 episcopi tandem hie qviescit."* The tomb, which Parker " erected while he was yet 
 alive," near the spot where he " used to pray," was demolished by Col. Scot in 1642, 
 and the Archbishop's corpse thrown into a dung-heap ; but it was recovered and re- 
 interred after the Restoration. Archbishop Bancroft has narrated these facts in an 
 epitaph of elegant Latin, inscribed on a tomb raised by him to Parker's memory. In 
 the Chapel have been consecrated upwards of 150 bishops : Dr. Howley's consecration 
 as Bishop of London (1813) was witnessed by Queen Charlotte, when seventy years of 
 age : as Archbishop of Canterbury he crowned three sovereigns. The Crypt beneath 
 the chapel has been already noticed at p. 302. 
 
 The Library ( Juxon's Hall) and the Great Dining-room (on the site of the Guard- 
 chamber) form the west side of the inner court. On the north are the new buildings 
 of the palace, by E. Blore ; the entrance is between two octagonal towers, 84 feet 
 high. In the Private Library is a portrait on board of Archbishop Warham, con- 
 secrated 1504 ; this was painted by Holbein, and presented by him to the Archbishop, 
 with a head of his friend Erasmus : the latter is missing. In the Ante-room is a 
 whole-length portrait of Charles I., copied from Vandyke ; and a picture on panel of 
 St. Ambrose, St. Jerome, St. Augustine, and St. Gregory, with the Holy Spirit. (See 
 a List of the Pictures, in Brayley's History of Surrey, vol. iii.) 
 
 The Guard-chamber is mentioned in 1424 as the " Camera Armigerorum," from the 
 arms being kept here for the defence of the palace ; but they were carried off in the 
 plunder of 1642, and were never replaced. In this chamber Archbishop Laud kept his 
 state, Sept. 19, 1633, the day of his consecration. The apartment is 58 feet long and 
 27 feet 6 inches wide ; it has a very elegant oak roof, with the lofty two-centred and 
 bold tracery of Early Perpendicular work ; it was long plastered over, but was restored 
 by Blore about 1832, when it was under-propped, and the walls were rebuilt. The 
 roof is panelled, and supported by bold arches springing from octangular corbels ; the 
 spandrels of the arches being filled by quatrefoils in circles, and trefoil mouldings. On 
 the gabled sides of the roof similarly enriched arches stretch between the great roof 
 arches ; on the walls also arches span from corbel to corbel, and support an embattled 
 frieze ; and the fireplace is turreted. 
 
 In this room, besides smaller portraits, is a series of half and three-quarter lengths of all the Arch- 
 bishops of Canterbury since 1633 : including Laud, by Vandyke ; Juxon (who attended Charles I. on the 
 scaffold), from an original at Longleat ; Herring, by Hogarth ; Seeker, by Reynolds ; Sutton, by Beechey ; 
 Howley, by Shee. These portraits show the gradual change in the clerical dress, in bands and wigs, 
 and the large ruff in place of the band : Tillotson's being the first wig, unpowdered, and not unlike the 
 natural hair. Here also are smaller heads of the earlier archbishops : Arundel, from a curious portrait 
 at Penshurst; Chicheley, Cranmer, and Grindal ; and Cardinal Pole, from an original in the Barberini 
 Palace at Rome. Pole maintained great hospitality at Lambeth : in the MS. Library is his patent (4 
 Philip and Mary) for retaining one hundred servants. The body of the Cardinal lay in great state at 
 Lambeth during forty days, prior to its interment at Canterbury. 
 
 In the hall are given annually, on " public days," a certain number of state entertainments, termed 
 "Lambeth Palace dinners," to the bishops and leading clergy. The Rev. Sydney Smith facetiously 
 asks : "Is it necessary that the Archbishop of Canterbury should give feasts to aristocratic London; 
 and that the domestics of the Prelacy should stand with swords and bag-wigs, round pig and turkey and 
 venison, to defend, as it were, the orthodox gastronomer from the fierce Unitarian, the fell Baptist, and 
 the famished children of Dissent ?" Second Letter on Church Reform. 
 
 In the Picture Gallery, built by Pole, among other paintings are: Archbishop Potter when six years 
 old (1680), holding a Greek Testament, which he is said then nearly to have read ; Martin Luther, from 
 Nuremburg ; Cardinal Pole (curious, on board, and probably a genuine likeness) ; Queen Catherine 
 Parr, original, on board; Luther and his Wife (?), attributed to Holbein, and copied on enamel by Bone ; 
 Henry Prince of Wales, eldest son of James I. (full-length, curious costume) ; Bishop Burnet, as Chan- 
 cellor of the Garter ; an old view of Canterbury Cathedral ; Archbishop Juxon, after his decease ; 
 Bishop Hoadly, painted by his second wife ; Archbishop Parker.t painted in 1572 by Richard Lyue, who 
 practised painting and engraving in the palace; Archbishop Tillotson, by Mrs. Beale. 
 
 The Great Hall is built of dark-red brick, with strong buttresses and stone finish- 
 ings. In the centre of the roof is a two-storied hexagonal lantern, surmounted by a 
 large vane, in which are the arms of the see of Canterbury, impaled with those of 
 Juxon (a cross between four negroes' heads), surmounted by the archiepiscopal mitre. 
 
 * In this Chapel Archbishop Parker was consecrated, Dec. 5, 1559, according to the "duly appointed 
 ordinal of the Church of England," as recorded in Parker's Register at Lambeth, and in the Library of 
 Corpus Christ! College at Cambridge; thus falsifying the absurd calumny promulgated by the Romanists, 
 of Archbishop Parker having been irregularly consecrated at the Nag's Head Tavern, at the east end of 
 Friday-street, Cheapside, by one bishop only. 
 
 t This portrait strongly resembles the small print of the Archbishop engraved by E. Berg (Remigius 
 Hogenberg), which Vertue considered to be the first portrait engraved in England.
 
 504 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The interior was converted into a library for the printed books belonging to the see, 
 between 1830 and 1834 ; when a new entrance-gateway to the inner court was built, 
 with a fireproof room over it, in which are kept the MSS. The library has a large 
 north-west bay-window of richly ornamented stained and painted glass ; in the top 
 division is a very large coat of the arms of the see and Archbishop Juxon; and 
 underneath are the arms of the see and Archbishop Howley, 1829. Around are smaller 
 coats of the arms of about twenty-four archbishops, each impaled with the arms of the 
 see. Here are also the arms of Philip II. King of Spain ; but the most curious piece of 
 painted glass is an ancient portrait of Archbishop Chicheley. 
 
 The roof is of oak, and a fine specimen of olden carpentry : it consists of eight main 
 ribs, with longitudinal braces, springing from corbel brackets, and enriched with 
 carved spandrels, pendants, enwreathed mitres, and the arms of Juxon and the see of 
 Canterbury several times repeated. Above the two fireplaces are painted the arms of 
 the see, impaling those of Bancroft, the founder of the library ; and of Seeker, a 
 liberal contributor. The books, over-estimated by Ducarcl at 25,000 volumes, are kept 
 in wall and projecting oak cases ; the earliest printed works being in the south-west 
 bay-window recess. Until Bancroft bequeathed his books in 1610, each archbishop 
 brought his own private collection. Bancroft's books remained at Lambeth till 1646, 
 two years after the execution of Laud, when being seized by the Parliament, the use of 
 them was granted to Dr. Wincocke. They were subsequently given to Sion College, 
 and many began to get into private hands ; when Selden suggested to the University 
 of Cambridge a right to them, and they were delivered, pursuant to an ordinance of 
 Parliament, dated Feb. 1647, into their possession. After the Restoration, and re- 
 peated demands by Juxon and Sheldon, the books were collected, including those in 
 private hands, and in the possession of John Thurloe and Hugh Peters. Evelyn writes 
 to Pepys, in 1 689, that the library was then " replenished with excellent books, but 
 that it ebbs and flows, like the Thames running by it, at every prelate's accession or 
 translation." The books left by Archbishops Bancroft, Abbot, Laud, Sheldon, and 
 Tenison, bear their arms. There is only one volume in the collection known to have be- 
 longed to Archbishop Parker, which is a volume of Calvin's writing : his arms are on the 
 outside, and within is written in red lead, " J. Parker," who was the archbishop's son. 
 
 The first complete Catalogue made of the printed books was drawn up by Bishop Gibson when 
 librarian. In 1718 it was fairly copied by Dr. Wilkins, in three volumes folio ; and it has been continued 
 by his successors to the present time. The library consists of rare and curious editions of the Scriptures, 
 commentaries of the early fathers, scarce controversial divinity, records of ecclesiastical affairs, English 
 history and topography ; many fine copies, splendidly embellished. 
 
 The early printed books (see the Rev. Dr. Maitland's two Catalogues) include, Caxton's Chronicles of 
 England and Description of Britain, both "fynsshed" in 1480, the finest copies extant; Lyndwode*s 
 Constitutiones Provinciales, printed by Wynkin de Worde in 1499 ; The Golden Legend, emprynted at 
 London in Fletestrete, in the Sygne of the George, by Richard Pynson, in 1507, and another edition of 
 the same work by Wynkin de Worde, in 1527 ; Gower's Confessio Amantis, a splendid copy by Caxton, 
 1483; Dives and Pauper, by Pynson, 1493; Chaucer's Works, folio, by John Reynes, in 1452, and Islip, 
 in 1598. Here, too, is a small folio, executed at Paris, on vellum, about 1500, intituled, La Dance 
 Macabre (the Dance of Death), printed with old Gothic types and beautifully illuminated. Here, also, 
 in volumes, is Bancroft's collection of black-letter tracts, pamphlets, and sermons ; remarkable for St. 
 Paul's Cross sermons, Mar-Prelate tracts, and the writings of the Brownists and other Elizabethan 
 separatists. Here, too, is a copy of Archbishop Parker's Antiquities printed, by Daycs in 1572 (only 
 two complete copies extant) : it contains the very rare portrait of Parker, taken just before his death, 
 by Berg. 
 
 Among the Manuscripts are, the ancient French version and exposition of the Apocalypse, with 
 miniature paintings, No. 75; the Latin copy of the Apocalypse, Xo. 209 (thirteenth century), with 78 
 brilliant illuminations; and No. 200, a copy of the treatise De Virginitate, in praise of celibacy, by 
 Aldhelm, Abbot of Malmesbury, eighth century. Among the sacred MSS. are Greek Testaments; 
 the Old Testament in Armenian; the whole Bible, Wicliffe's translation; and Latin Psalters, 
 beautifully written and illuminated. Here, too, are Scripture expositions of Bede; Anglo-Saxon ser- 
 mons (tenth century) and Saxon homilies (twelfth century). Among the Missals is a^very beautiful 
 Salisbury missal, folio, on vellum, emblazoned with Archbishop Chicheley's arms. The MSS. of Greek 
 and Latin classics are extremely valuable. Here are the Lambeth Registers, 40 vols. folio, on vellum; 
 containing homages, popes' bulls ; letters to and from popes, cardinals, kings, and princes; commissions 
 and proxies, marriages and divorces, &c. 1279 to 1747 (except 1644 to 1660) : the registers of the primates 
 subsequent to Potter, 1747, are kept at Doctors' Commons. Also two large folio volumes of papal bulls ; 
 ancient charters of the see, 13 vols. ; accurate transcripts of the parliamentary surveys of the property 
 of bishops, deans, and chapters, made during the Commonwealth, 21 vols. 
 
 The collection is stored with MSS. of En-dish history, civil and ecclesiastical, including chronicles 
 and collections of histories; and important documents, particularly of the relations of France and Eng- 
 land (temp. Hen. V. and VI.). Among the MSS. on Heraldry and Genealogy are many written or 
 corrected by Lord Burghley. Here are stores of old English poetry and romances : including Lydgate's 
 Works, andGawan Douglas's Translation of Virgil' s^neid; and the metrical legend of Lybeaus Disconus.
 
 LAW COURTS. 
 
 Among the Letters are those of Lord Verulam, published by Dr. Birch ; those of 
 his brother, Anthony Bacon, sixteen vols. ; the letters of the Earl of Shrewsbury, and 
 of other persons, temp. Henry VIII. to James I. But the most curious and beautifully 
 written of the miscellaneous MSS. (between 1200 and 1300 in number) is Lord Rivers's 
 translation from the French of "the Notable Wise Sayings of Philosophers," with 
 a very fine illumination of Earl Rivers presenting Caxton the printer to King 
 Edward IV., in presence of his queen and infant son, afterwards Edward V. (Lon- 
 diniana, vol. iii. p. 316.) 
 
 Here is an original copy of Aggas's Map of London, temp. Elizabeth ; and here are 
 laid up the service-books which have been used at the coronations of different sove- 
 reigns. The coronation-chairs claimed by the archbishops have descended to their 
 respective families. 
 
 Among the Curiosities is the habit of a priest, consisting of a stole, maniple, 
 chasuble, cord, two bands marked P., and the corporal ; also, a crucifix of base metal, 
 a string of beads, and a box of relics. Here is kept the shell of the tortoise, believed 
 to have lived in the palace-garden from the time of Laud (1633) to 1753, when ib 
 perished by the negligence of the gardener : the shell is 10 inches in length, and 6 
 inches in breadth. 
 
 The Gardens and grounds extend to eighteen acres. Here were formerly two fine 
 white Marseilles fig-trees, traditionally planted by Cardinal Pole against that part of 
 the palace which he founded : these trees were more than 50 feet in height and 40 in 
 breadth ; their circumferences 28 and 21 inches. They were removed during the late 
 rebuilding, but some cuttings from the trees are growing between the buttresses of 
 the Library. The Terrace is named Clarendon Walk, from having been the scene of 
 the conference between the great and wise Earl of Clarendon and the ill-fated Laud. 
 
 A superb feature in the archbishop's state was formerly a river barge, in which he 
 went to Parliament ; but this custom has been discontinued a century, or since Arch- 
 bishop Wake's primacy. The Stationers' Company's Barge, formerly called at Lam- 
 beth Palace on Lord Mayor's Day, to present copies of their Almanacks; the origin of 
 which custom is described under the account of the Stationers' Company, p. 421. 
 
 Lambeth House has at various times proved an asylum for learned foreigners who 
 have been compelled to flee from the intolerant spirit of their own countrymen. Here 
 the early reformers, Martyr and Bucer, found a safe retreat ; and the learned Antonio, 
 Archbishop of Spalatro, was entertained by Archbishop Abbot. The archbishops have 
 frequently been honoured by visits from their respective sovereigns. Henry VII., just 
 before his coronation, visited Archbishop Bourchier. Henry VIII. was a guest of 
 Warham, in 1513; and one evening in 1543 he crossed the Thames to Lambeth, 
 to acquaint Cranmer (whom he called into his barge) of the plot against him 
 instigated by Bishop Gardiner. Queen Mary is said to have refurnished Lambeth 
 House, at her own expense, for the reception of Cardinal Pole, whom she several 
 times visited here during his short primacy. Elizabeth often visited Archbishop 
 Parker; his successor, Grindal, was out of favour; but Whitgift, the next archbishop, 
 was visited fifteen times by Elizabeth, who occasionally stayed two or three days. 
 James also visited Whitgift. Mary, Queen of William III., had a conference here in 
 1694 with Archbishop Tillotsou, who received here Peter the Great, to witness the 
 ceremony of an ordination. 
 
 LAW COURTS. 
 
 FOR. nearly eight centuries, existing record proves Law Courts to have been held at 
 Westminster, within the palace of the sovereign : one of the earliest notices being in 
 the Annals of Waverley, 1069, when Elfric, Abbot of Peterborough, was tried before 
 the king in curia. But it was not until 1225 (9 Hen. III.) that the Law Courts, 
 hitherto held wherever the king was temporarily resident, were permanently fixed at 
 Westminster. Here the Courts were frequently held before the monarch in person ; 
 and the phrase of summons, " in banco reginoe," still is, " before the queen herself." 
 
 The old Law Courts in Westminster Hall were thus arranged. At the entry, on the right hand, 
 were settled the Common Pleas, for civil matters ; at the upper end, in the south-east corner, was the
 
 506 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 King's Bench, for pleas of the Crown ; and in the south-west angle sat the Lord Chancellor, the Master 
 of the Rolls, and eleven men learned in the civil law, called Masters of the Chancery, deriving its name 
 from the lattice-work, " cancelli," which separated this Court (in the last century shutting it out of 
 sight) from the lower part of the Hall. (The screen was removed before the coronation of King George 
 IV.) Near the King's Bench, going to the large chamber (White Hall) was the Court of Wards and 
 Liveries, instituted by Henry VIII. ; in this chamber, then called the Treasury, were kept valuable 
 state-papers. Adjoining, but inferior to the Chancery, was the Equity Court of Requests, or Conscience, 
 for trying suits made by way of petition to the sovereign ; and sometimes called the Poor Man's Court, 
 because he could there have right without paying money. It began its sittings in 1493, and was remodelled 
 in 1517 ; the Lord Privy Seal sitting as judge. Walcott's Westminster, p. 252, abridged. 
 
 The Old Court of Requests, just mentioned, was, at the Union, fitted up as the 
 King's Robing-room and the House of Lords; and after the great fire in 1834, this 
 Court was newly roofed, and fitted up as the House of Commons ; the old Painted 
 Chamber being similarly provided as the House of Lords. 
 
 Of certain of the present Courts we subjoin a few details of popular interest. 
 
 CENTRAL CRIMINAL COURT (the) forms part of the Sessions House, formerly " the 
 Justice Hall," divided by a broad yard from the prison of Newgate, in the Old Bailey. 
 The Court, established 1834, sits monthly; so that a prisoner has been apprehended one 
 day, committed by a magistrate on the second, and tried, convicted, and sentenced on the 
 third or fourth day. The judges are, the Lord Mayor (who opens the Court), the 
 Sheriffs, the Lord Chancellor (such is the order of the Act), the Judges, the Aldermen, 
 Recorder, Common Serjeant of London, judge of the Sheriffs' Court, or City Com- 
 missioner, and any others whom the Crown may appoint as assistants. Of these, the 
 Recorder and Common Serjeant are in reality the presiding judges ; a judge of the law 
 only assisting when unusual points of the law are involved, or when conviction affects 
 the life of the prisoner. Here are tried crimes of every kind, from treason to the 
 pettiest larceny, and even offences committed on the high seas. The jurisdiction com- 
 prises the whole of the metropolis as now defined; with the remainder of Middlesex; 
 the parishes of Richmond and Mortlake in Surrey ; and great part of Essex. 
 
 The Court-house, built in 1773, was destroyed in the Riots of 1780, but was rebuilt 
 and enlarged 1809, by the addition of the site of Surgeons' Hall. The Old Court is a 
 square hall, with a gallery for visitors ; below is a dock for the prisoners, with stairs 
 descending to the covered passage by which they are conveyed to and from Newgate ; 
 opposite is the bench, with the chief seat, above it a gilded sheathed sword upon the 
 crimson wall ; and a canopy overhead, surmounted with the royal arms. To the left of 
 the dock is the witness-box, and further left is the jury-box ; which arrangement 
 enables the jury to see, without turning, the faces of the witnesses and prisoners; 
 the witnesses to identify the prisoner ; and lastly, the judges on the bench, and the 
 counsel in the centre of the Court below; keeping jury, witnesses, and prisoners all at 
 once within nearly the same line of view. The Court formerly sat at 7 A.M. ; the 
 present hour is 10. Upon the front of the dock is placed rue, to prevent infection. 
 In 1750, when the jail-fever raged in Newgate, the efliuvia entering the Court, caused 
 the death of Baron Clarke, Sir Thomas Abney, the judge of the Common Pleas ; and 
 Pennant's " respected kinsman," Sir Samuel Pennant, Lord Mayor ; besides members 
 of the bar and of the jury, and other persons : this disease was also fatal to several 
 persons in 1772. In the New Court, adjoining, are tried the lighter offences. 
 
 In 1841, both courts were ventilated upon Dr. Reid's plan, from chambers beneath the floors, filled 
 with air filtered from an apartment outside the building ; the air being drawn into them by an enormous 
 discharge upon the highest part of the edifice, or propelled into them by a fanner. From the entire build- 
 ing the vitiated air is received in a large chamber in the roof of the Old Court, whence it is discharged 
 by a gigantic iron cowl, 15 feet in diameter, weighing two tons, and the point of the arrow of the 
 guiding-vane 150 Ibs. The subterranean air-tunnels pass through a portion of the old City wall. 
 
 Above the Old Court is a stately dining-room, wherein, during the Old Bailey 
 sittings, the dinners are given by the Sheriffs to the judges and aldermen, the Recorder, 
 Common Serjeant, City pleaders, and a few visitors. Marrow-puddings and rump- 
 steaks are invariably provided. Two dinners, exact duplicates, are served each day, at three 
 and five o'clock ; the judges relieve each other, but aldermen have eaten both dinners ; 
 and a chaplain, who invariably presided at the lower end of the table, thus ate two 
 dinners a day for ten years. Theodore Hook admirably describes a Judges' Dinner in 
 his Gilbert Gurney. In 1807-8, the dinners for three sessions, nineteen days, cost 
 Sheriff Phillips and his colleague Sol. per day=665. ; 145 dozen of wine, consumed
 
 LAW COURTS. 507 
 
 at the above dinners, 4501. : total 1115Z. The amount is now considerably greater, as 
 the sessions are held monthly. 
 
 " The Press Yard," between the Court-house and Newgate, recals the horrors of 
 the old criminal law, in the peine forte et dure (the strong and hard pain) : a torture 
 applied to persons refusing to plead, who were stripped and put in low dark chambers, 
 with as much weight of iron placed upon them as they could bear, and more, there to 
 lie until they were dead ; which barbarous custom of pressing to death continued 
 until the year 1734. 
 
 Memoralle Trials at the Old Bailey and Central Criminal Courts : Major Strangwayes, the assassin, 
 1657 ; Col. Turner and his family, for burglary in Lime-street, 1663 ; the Regicides, 1660 ; Green, Berry, 
 and Hill, for the murder of Sir Edmund Berry Godfrey, 1678 ; Count Koningsmark, and three others, for 
 the assassination of Mr. Thynne, 1681 ; William Lord Russell, William Hone, and two others, for high 
 treason, 1683 ; Rowland Walters and others, for the murder of Sir Charles Pym, bart., 168S ; Harrison, 
 for the murder of Dr. Clenche, 1692; Beau Fielding, for bigamy, 1706; Richard Thornhill, Esq., for 
 killing Sir Cholmeley Deering in a duel, 1711; the Marquis di Pa'leotti, for the murder of his servant 
 in Lisle-street, 1718; Major Oneby, for killing in a duel, 1718 and 1726; Jack Sheppard, the house- 
 breaker, 1724; Jonathan Wild, the thief-taker (who lived nearly opposite the Court-house), 1725;* 
 Catherine Hayes, murder of her husband, 1726; Richard Savage, the poet, for murder, 1727; the 
 infamous Col. Charteris, 1730; Sarah Malcolm, for murder, 1733; Elizabeth Canning, an inexplicable 
 mystery, 1753 ; Ann Brownriggr, for murder, 1767 ; Baretti, for stabbing, 1769 ; the two Perraus, for 
 forgery, 1776; the Rev. Dr. Dodd, for forgery, 1777; the Rev. Mr. Hackman, for shooting Miss Reay, 
 1779; Ryl nd, the engraver, for forgery, 1783; Barrington, the pickpocket, 1790; Renwick Williams, 
 for stabbing, 1790; Theodore Gardelle, for murder, 1790; Hadfleld, for shooting at George III., 1800; 
 Capt. Macnamara, for killing Col. Montgomery in a duel, 1803 ; Aslett, the Bank clerk (forgery on 
 the Bank, 320.000/.), 1803; old Patch, for murder, 1806; Holloway and Haggerty, for murder, 1807; 
 Governor Wall, for murder by flogging, 1812 ; Bellingham ; the assassin of Perceval, 1812 ; Eliza Fenning, 
 for poisoning, 1815; Cashman, the seaman, for riot on Snow-hill (where he was hanged), 1817; Richard 
 Carlile, for blasphemy, 1819 and 1831; Cato-street conspirators, 1820; Fauntleroy, for forgery, 1824; 
 St. John Long, the "counter-irritation" surgeon, for manslaughter, 1830 and 1831; Bishop and Williams, 
 for murder by " burking," 1831; Greenacre, for murder, 1837; E. Oxford, for shooting at the Queen, 
 1840; Courvoisier, for the murder of Lord William Russell, 1840; Blakesley, for murder in Eastcheap, 
 1841 ; Beaumont Smith, for forgery of Exchequer Bills, 1841 ; J. Francis, for attempt to shoot the 
 Queen, 1843; Mac Naughten, for assassination, 1834; Dalmas, for murder on Battersea Bridge, 1844; 
 Barber, Fletcher, &c., for Will-forgeries, 1844; Manning and his wife, for murder, 1849; Seven Pirates 
 convicted of murder on the high seas, within the jurisdiction of the Admiralty of England, 1863. 
 
 . CLEEKENWELL SESSION HOUSE (see p. 237). 
 COTTBT OF AECHES (see DOCTOES' COMMONS, p. 312). 
 
 COTJETS OF EQUITY (the) namely, those of the Lord Chancellor, the Master of the 
 Rolls, and the Vice-Chancellor of England sit at Westminster in term-time ; but in 
 the intervals the Lord Chancellor and Vice-Chancellor sit at Lincoln's Inn ; and the 
 Master of the Rolls at the Rolls House, in Chancery -lane : the two additional Vice- 
 Chancellors, appointed in 1841, also sit at Lincoln's Inn. The Lord High Chancellor 
 was originally a sort of confidential chaplain, or, before the Reformation, confessor to 
 the king, and keeper of the king's conscience. As chief secretary, he advised his 
 master in matters temporal; prepared royal mandates, grants, and charters ; and when 
 seals came in, affixed the same : hence the appointment to the office takes place by the 
 delivery of the Great Seal. His Court has exclusive cognisance of trusts, and the 
 suitors' property exceeds 40,000,0002. 
 
 COTTRT OF CHANCEEY. The present Law Courts, on the west side of the Great 
 Hall at Westminster, were built by Soane, 1820-25, upon the site of the old Exchequer 
 Chamber, &c. There is little to interest the visitor, except in the Lord Chancellor's 
 Court, where his lordship sits in state, with the mace and an embroidered bag before him ; 
 in this bag the seal is deposited when the Chancellor receives it from the Sovereign, 
 and when, upon his retirement from office, he delivers it into the royal hands : formerly, 
 the Great Seal was worn by the Chancellor on his left side. 
 
 The Great Seal itself is a silver pair of dies, which are closed to receive the melted 
 wax, poured, when an impression is to be taken, through an orifice left in the top. As 
 each impression is attached to a document by a ribbon or slip of parchment, its ends 
 are put into the seal before the wax is poured in; so that when the hard wax is taken 
 from the dies, the ribbon or parchment is affixed to it. The impression of the seal is 
 
 * Amonerstthe old manuscript documents in the Town Clerk's Office at Guildhall is a petition from 
 Jonathan Wild to the Court of Aldermen, dated 1724, praying to be free of the City, for apprehending 
 and convicting divers felons returned from transportation, since October 1720. In 1839, the skeleton of 
 Jonathan was in the possession of a surgeon at Windsor.
 
 508 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON 
 
 six inches in diameter, and three-quarters of an inch thick. On every accession to the 
 throne, a new seal is struck, and the old one is cut into four pieces and deposited in 
 the Tower of London. Formerly, the seal was broken " by the king's command," and 
 the fragments were given to the poor of religious houses. 
 
 The present Great Seal was executed by Benjamin Wyon, B.A., in 1839. Obverse : The Queen wear- 
 ing a flowing and sumptuous robe and regal diadem, bearing a sceptre, and riding a charger richly 
 caparisoned with plumes and trappings, while a page, bonnet in hand, gracefully restrains the steed. 
 The legend in the exergue, " Victoria l)ei Gratia Britanniarum Regina, Fidei Defensor," is engraved in 
 Gothic letters ; the interspaces of the words being filled with heraldic roses; a crown above, and a 
 trident-head and oak branches beneath. Mecerse : The Queen royally robed and crowned, holding the 
 sceptre and orb, and seated upon a throne beneath a Gothic canopy : on either side is a figure of Jus- 
 tice and Religion ; and beneath are the royal arms and crown ; the whole encircled by a border of oak 
 aud roses. 
 
 The Seal-bag is about twelve inches square, of crimson silk embroidered in gold, 
 with the royal arms on each side, fringed with gold bullion ; to the bag is attached a 
 stout silken cord, by which it is carried ; within is placed the Seal, in a leathern pouch, 
 enclosed in a silk purse. 
 
 The Chancellor's Mace is silver-gilt, and about five feet long. The staff and its 
 massive bands are deeply chased with the rose, shamrock, and thistle ; the upper por- 
 tion consists of a large and richly chased crown, surmounted with the orb and cross, 
 and encircled with crosses-patees and fleurs-de-lis ; and supported on a bold circlet, 
 ornamented in high relief with the emblems of the United Kingdom. The mace and 
 seal-bag are laid before the Chancellor when seated upon the woolsack as Speaker of 
 the House of Lords ; and they are placed upon the table in the Court of Chancery, 
 accompanied by a large nosegay of flowers, conjectured to be the representative of the 
 judge's bough or wand. 
 
 COURT OF EXCHEQUER (the) was formed by William I. in 1079, as a superior Court 
 of Record, in the place of a similar court in his Duchy of Normandy : it included the 
 Common Pleas until 16 John, 1215; it was remodelled into its present form by 
 Edward I. The name of Exchequer is from the parti-coloured carpet of a table before 
 the Barons, on which the sums of certain of the king's accounts were reckoned by 
 counters : the Chancellor of the Exchequer is the treasurer ; he presides only when the 
 Court sits as a Court of Equity. 
 
 The Great Boll of the Exchequer (" the Pipe Roll ") contains an account of the 
 Crown revenue from 5 Stephen to the present time. To this document nearly every 
 ancient pedigree is indebted; it has a perfect list of the Sheriffs of the different 
 counties, and almost every name in English history. 
 
 The Court of Exchequer regulates the election of Sheriffs. Thus, on the morrow of 
 St. Martin, November 12, a Privy Council is held in the Exchequer Court, to receive 
 the report of the Judges of the persons eligible in the several counties to serve as 
 Sheriff. On the bench sits the Chancellor of the Exchequer, in his figured silk gown, 
 trimmed with gold; next are Members of the Privy Council, the Lord Chancellor, and 
 Judges of the Queen's Bench and Common Pleas ; below sit the Judges and Chief 
 Baron of the Exchequer, and on the left the Remembrancer of the Court. At this 
 meeting the Judges report the names of three persons eligible for Sheriff in each 
 county, when excuses for exemption are pleaded. The list is again considered by the 
 Privy Council, and the names finally determined on the approval of Her Majesty in. 
 Counc'.l, which is done by the Sovereign pricking through the name approved on a long 
 sheet of paper called the Sheriffs' Roll. 
 
 The Sheriffs of London and Middlesex are, however, chosen by the Livery ; but are presented, on 
 the morrow of the Feast of St. Michael, in the Court of Exchequer, accompanied by the Lord Mayor 
 and aldermen, when the Recorder introduces the Sheriffs and details their family history, and the Cursi- 
 tor Baron signifies the sovereign's approval; the writs and appearances are read, recorded, and filed, and 
 the Sheriffs and senior under-sheriff take the oaths ; and the late Sheriffs present their accounts. For- 
 merly, the following ancient tenure ceremony was perfi irmed in the Court. The Crier of the court made 
 proclamation for one who did homage for the Sheriffs of London to "stand forth and do his duty:" 
 when the senior Alderman below the chair rose, the usher of the court handed him a bill-hook, and held 
 in both hands a small bundle of sticks, which the Alderman cut asunder, and then cut another bundle 
 with a hatchet. Similar proclamation was then made for the Sheriff of Middlesex, when the Alderman 
 counted six horse-shoes lying upon the table, and sixty-one hob-nails handed in a tray ; and the num- 
 bers were declared twice. The sticks were thin peeled twigs, tied in a bundle at each end with red 
 tape; the horse-shoes were of large size, and very old; the hob-nails were supplied fresh every year. 
 By the lirst ceremony the Alderman did suit and service for the tenants of a manor in Shropshire, the
 
 LAW COURTS. 509 
 
 chopping of sticks betokening the custom of the tenants supplying their lord with fuel. The counting 
 of the horse-shoes and nails was another suit and service of the owners of a forge in St. Clement 
 Danes, Strand, which formerly belonged to the City, but no longer exists. Sheriff Hoare, in his MS. 
 journal of his shrievalty, 1740-41, says, where the tenements and lands are situated " no one knows, 
 nor doth the City receive any rents or profits thereby." 
 
 This ancient ceremony is now observed before the Queen's Remembrancer, at his 
 office, where the City Solicitor, the Secondary of London, and one of the late Under- 
 Sheriffs, attend " to account as to rent services due to the Crown to be rendered on 
 behalf of the Corporation ;" when the City Solicitor cuts the fagot and counts the 
 horse-shoes and nails, and the Remembrancer says, " Good number," according to 
 custom. 
 
 On Nov. 9 the oath is administered in the Court of Exchequer to the [Lord Mayor elect; the late 
 Lord Mayor renders his accounts ; and the Recorder invites the barons to the inauguration-banquet at 
 Guildhall. 
 
 The Court of Exchequer has two seals: the Great Seal, used not more than ten or twelve times a 
 year, except on Seal Days, in passing the accounts in court. The other, a small Initial Seal, which 
 formerly contained the Chancellor's initials, but now bears the letters C. E., is affixed to writs, " is in, 
 daily use, and seldom idle during official hours." Notes, by F. 8. Thomas, Record Office. 
 
 The Receipt of Exchequer at Westminster, the most ancient revenue department of the State, with 
 all its antiquated machinery of tallies and checks, was not abolished until the year 1834; when a new 
 office for the payment of pensions and public moneys, and the receipt of revenue, was opened at the 
 Bank of England. By the statute of 23 Geo. III. cap. 82, however, indented check receipts were issued 
 from the Tally Court instead of tallies, which, as instruments of loan, declined with the growth of 
 Exchequer Bills. An Exchequer Tally, date 1810, is 22 inches long, and J of an inch extreme width: 
 notches are cut in its edge to denote the reckoning, and from the cross-line in the lower part has been 
 stripped off the counter-tally, cutting the date-line of the transaction written on the edge ; so that 
 identity consisted not only in the wood fitting, but in the halved date and notches corresponding, 
 like a 'halved bank-note. 
 
 " Prom his rug the skew'r he takes, 
 And on the stick ten equal notches makes ; 
 With just resentment flings it on the ground, 
 There, take my tally of ten thousand pound." Swift. 
 
 As one of the Exchequer apartments at Westminster was filled with the old tallies in 1834, it became 
 advisable to destroy them ; and an order was issued from the Board of Works to burn these ancient 
 relics, although persons curious in such matters would have purchased bundles of them for museums 
 and collections. The tallies were, accordingly, burnt in the principal stove of the House of Lords ; and 
 to the consequent overheating of the flues proceeding in every direction from the stove through the 
 wood-work of the House, on October 16, 1834, nearly the whole of both Houses of Parliament was con- 
 sumed by fire. 
 
 INSOLVENT DEBTOBS' COTTBT, Portugal-street, Lincoln's-Inn-fields, abolished 1861. 
 Mr. Dickens has thus vividly sketched its characteristics : 
 
 " A temple dedicated to the genius of seediness," and "the place of daily refuge of all the shabby- 
 genteel people in London. There are more suits of old clothes hi it at one time than will be offered for 
 sale in all Houndsditch in a twelvemonth ; and more unwashed skins and grisly beards than all the 
 pumps and shaving-shops between Tyburn and Whitechapel could render decent between sunrise and 
 sunset. There is not a messenger or process-server attached to the Court who wears a coat that was 
 made for him ; the very barristers' wigs are ill-powdered, and their curls lack crispness. But the 
 attorneys, who sit below the commissioners, are, after all, the greatest curiosities. The professional 
 establishment of the more opulent of these gentlemen consists of a blue bag and a boy. They have 
 no fixed offices, their legal business being transacted in the parlours of public-houses or the yards of 
 prisons, whither they repair in crowds, and canvas for customers after the manner of omnibus-cads. 
 They are of a greasy and mildewed appearance ; and if they can be said to have any vices, perhaps 
 drinking and cheating are most conspicuous among them." Pickwick Papers. 
 
 MAESHALSEA and PALACE COTJET was an appendage to the royal house at West- 
 minster: anciently it had exclusive jurisdiction in matters connected with the royal 
 household, and was presided over by the Earl Marshal. It next became a minor court 
 of record for actions for debt, &c., within Westminster and twelve miles round it, except 
 the City of London; its prison being in High-street, Southwark, until consolidated 
 with the Queen's Bench and Fleet in 1842. The Court, with the Knight-Marshal for 
 judge, existed until December 28, 1849, when it was formally adjourned for the last 
 time, and rose never to resume its sittings; the suits being transferred to the Common 
 Pleas and County Courts, and the records to the charge of the Master of the Rolls. 
 The Marshalsea Court sat in Southwark until 1801, and subsequently in Great Scotland- 
 yard, Whitehall ; but it was probably first held in the " Court of Requests," part of 
 the Norman Palace at Westminster. Littleton, the eminent lawyer, was appointed by 
 Henry VI. Steward or Judge of the Marshalsea Court. 
 
 There were formerly local courts in the metropolis outside the privileged boundary of the " City :" 
 the various Courts of Request, and the celebrated Palace Court, with a jurisdiction in some respects 
 resembling the Lord Mayor's Court, and like that Court, under its original constitution, having only a 
 limited number of privileged counsel and attorneys. The old Courts" of Bequest were swept away by
 
 510 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the County Courts' Acts. The Talace Court survived, and owed its subsequent downfall to the accident 
 of an energetic writer for the public press having been sued there, and in consequence brought about a 
 clamour for its abatement as a nuisance. Alexander Pulling. 
 
 LORD MAYOR'S COURT (the) has jurisdiction over all personal and mixed actions 
 within the City, and is held at Guildhall, nominally before the Lord Mayor and Alder- 
 men, but really before the Recorder. The office of the Court was formerly in a long 
 gallery at the west end of the Royal Exchange. The records of the Court were saved 
 from the great fire at the Exchange in 1838, and have been arranged in a strong fire- 
 proof closet in a record-room at Guildhall by the town-clerk ; with other records of the 
 reigns of Edward I., Edward III., Richard II., Henry IV., V., and VI. ; books of pre- 
 cedents, James I.j records from Elizabeth to George I. Francis Bancroft was an 
 officer of this Court, and despised for his mercenary conduct, which he atoned for by 
 bequeathing his ill-gotten wealth to build almshouses and a school. The Court was, 
 after 1838, held in Old Jewry ; and next removed to the Guildhall. 
 
 The Lord Mayor's Court is presided over by the Recorder, with an unlimited jurisdiction, both legal 
 and equitable, for cases which are within the City boundaries, and peculiar modes of procedure, in part 
 derived from the ancient customs of the City of London, and in part from recent Acts of Parliament, 
 and possessing the very peculiar power of proceeding by what is called/oreiyn attachment. 
 
 ROLLS COURT. In vacation the Master sits at the Rolls House, in the Liberty of 
 the Rolls, between Chancery rlane and Fetter-lane : it is exempt from the power of the 
 Sheriff of Middlesex, and of every other officer, except with leave of the Master. The 
 Court adjoins the Master's House and the Chapel, described at p. 215. The House, 
 designed by Colin Campbell, was built 1717, when Sir Joseph Jekyll was Master. A 
 great portion of the estate was formerly laid out in gardens, upon which has been built 
 the central portion of a new Record Office. Opposite the Rolls Chapel was Herflet 
 Inn, belonging to the priors of Nocton Park, and occupied by the Six Clerks in the 
 Court of Chancery, who subsequently removed to the west side of the north end of 
 Chancery-lane : they were abolished 1842. 
 
 When Sir William Grant was Master of the Eolls, the court sat in the evening from six to ten, and 
 Sir William dined after the court rose : his servant, when he went to bed, left two bottles of wine on 
 the table, which he always found empty hi the morning. Sir William lived on the ground-floor O f the 
 Eolls House, and when showing it to his successor in the Mastership, he said : " Here are two or three 
 good rooms; this is my dining-room; my library and bed-room are beyond; and I am told there are 
 some good rooms upstairs, but 1 was never there." 
 
 SHERIFF'S COURTS (the) are held by each of the Sheriffs of London, near Guildhall, 
 before a judge appointed by him. 
 
 STAR CHAMBER (the) was the ancient council-chamber of the palace at Westminster, 
 wherein the king sat in extraordinary causes. The last-existing Star-Chamber build- 
 ings are described at p. 450. 
 
 Our chief metropolitan tribunals are, at this day, held in the same place, and with 
 hardly better accommodation, than was accorded to them at the date of Magna Charta, 
 when the Common Pleas was permanently fixed at Westminster Hall. The demand 
 for a fitting Palace of Justice for the metropolis, which has been so long pressed on 
 the attention of the Legislature, is now about to be complied with ; the chosen site 
 being the district (7^ acres) bounded on the north by Horseshoe-court, Yeates- 
 court, Carey-street, and Lincoln's-inn ; on the south by the Strand, and the Temple ; 
 on the east by Bell-yard and Temple-bar; and on the west by New Inn and 
 Clement's Inn. The competitive designs for the New Law Courts were exhibited to 
 the public in a temporary building in Old-square, Lincoln's-inn, in February, 1867. 
 A paper, descriptive of the older occupation of the site, entitled, " Old Houses on the 
 site of the New Law Courts," by the author of Curiosities of London, with eight 
 engraved views, appeared in the Illustrated London News, December 15, 1866 : it is 
 a piece of London topography of considerable historic interest. 
 
 LEADENHALL STREET, 
 
 "EXTENDING from Cornhill to Aldgate, and the adjoining Market, are named 
 U from the manor-house of Leadenhall, which belonged to Sir Hugh Neville in 1309 ;
 
 LEICESTER SQUARE. 511 
 
 in 1419 Simon Eyre erected upon its site a granary, which he gave to the Corporation; and 
 adjoining he built a chapel in the Perpendicular style, for the market-people, Leadenhall 
 having then become a market. In this Hall were kept the artillery and other arms of 
 the City ; doles were distributed from here ; in Stow's boyhood, the common beams for 
 weighing wool, and the scales to weigh meal, were kept here ; and in the lofts above were 
 painted devices for pageants. Chamberlayne describes it, in 1726, as " a noble ancient 
 building, where are great markets for hides and leather, for flesh, poultry, and other 
 sorts of edibles." In 1730 the market-place was partly rebuilt ; and the leather-market 
 in 1814, when the Chapel and other ancient portions were removed. The " Green 
 Yard" was a portion of the garden of the Nevilles ; and the Chapel, in Ram-alley, was 
 inscribed " Dextra Domini exaltavit me." 
 
 Leadenhall was formerly the great meat-market. Don Pedro de Ronquillo, on visit- 
 ing it, said to Charles II., that he believed there to be more meat sold in that market 
 alone, than in all the kingdom of Spain in a year ; and " he was a very good judge." 
 
 Beneath No. 71, Leadenhall-street is the ancient chapel of St. Michael, Aldgate (see 
 CRYPTS, p. 303). No. 153 has an Early English crypt. Here, too, at " the Two 
 Fans," Peter Motteux, the translator of Rabelais and Don Quixote, kept an India 
 House for " China and Japan wares, fans, tea, muslins, pictures, arreck, and other 
 Indian goods ;" rich brocades, Dutch atlases, and other foreign silks, fine Flanders lace 
 and linens. (Spectator, Nos. 288 and 552, by Steele). Motteux wrote a poem upon 
 Tea: he was found dead (murdered) on his birthday, Feb. 19, 1717-18, in a house of 
 ill-fame in Star-court, Butcher-row, Temple Bar. 
 
 In Leadenhall-street are the churches of St. Andrew Undershaft (see p. 150) and 
 St. Catherine Cree (p. 156). On the wall of the latter is a large sun-dial j and at 
 the east end a curious gateway, built 1631. The churchyard was noted for perfor- 
 mances of miracle-plays, the earliest known of which relates to St. Catherine. (See also 
 EAST INDIA HOUSE, pp. 318, 319). 
 
 Nearly opposite the site of the East India House, now occupied by handsome stone- 
 fronted buildings, is St. Mary Axe, a street named from the church of St. Mary Axe, 
 which was " suppressed and letter) to be a warehouse" about the year 1565 j and the 
 church derived its particular designation from a holy relic it possessed : " an axe, oon 
 of the iij that the xjmd Virgins were behedyd w*." (Signed Sill, 5 Henry VIII.) 
 This church was united to St. Andrew Undershaft, in the above year. Nearly 
 opposite, in 1864, was taken down a four-storied Tudor house, with three over- 
 hanging floors, the front entirely of wood and plaster ; and some fine oak-panelled 
 interiors. 
 
 At No. 16, St. Mary Axe, lived Joseph Denison, the wealthy banker : here were 
 born his eldest daughter, afterwards Marchioness Conyngham ; and his son, William 
 Joseph Denison, M.P., who, dying in 1849, bequeathed two millions and a half of money,, 
 settled on his nephew, Lord Albert Denison, afterwards Baron Londesborough. 
 
 LEICESTER SQUASH, 
 
 "TTTITHIN memory, was called Leicester Fields, from the mansion at its north-east 
 ' V corner, built for Robert Sydney, Earl of Leicester, who died 1677. It was let to 
 Elizabeth Queen of Bohemia, daughter of James I. : she died here 1661. Colbert and 
 Prince Eugene resided here. But the fame of Leicester House chiefly rests upon 
 its having been bought by the Prince of Wales, afterwards George II,, when he had 
 quarrelled with his father and received the royal command to quit St. James's. When 
 George II. had a similar quarrel with his son Frederick, the Prince of Wales took up hi* 
 residence, as his father had done before him, at Leicester House, which Pennant happily 
 describes as " successively the pouting-place of Princes." Walpole tells us that 
 Frederick, Prince of Wales added to Leicester House the mansion westward Savile 
 House for his children ; a communication being made between the two houses, as Sir 
 John Fielding phrased it, in 1777, " for the more immediate intercourse of the royal 
 family." Hence, much of the celebrity of Leicester House became extended to Savile 
 House, wherein, probably, was performed Addison's play of Cato by the junior 
 branches of the Prince of Wales's household, Prince George playing Portius. The
 
 512 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Prince resided here until his accession to the throne as George III., when, in front of 
 the mansion, he was first hailed as King. The last Royal tenant of Leicester House 
 was the Duke of Gloucester, grandson of George II. The mansion was next let to Sir 
 Ashton Lever for his museum, which was removed in 1788. Leicester House was then 
 taken down : Savile House being left standing. It had, however, been proposed 
 to build here a theatre ; for, in the Ladies' Magazine, 1790, we read, "The site of the 
 new opera-house is settled : Leicester-square the mound occupied by Leicester House." 
 On the site of its gardens was built New Lisle-street, in 1791. Eastward was the door 
 which was unceremoniously cut through the wall of the garden of Home, the poulterer, 
 to make an outlet towards Newport Market for the convenience of the Prince of Wales's 
 domestics. How the poulterer resisted the encroachment, and triumphed over the 
 heir-apparent of the English crown, and the obnoxious door was removed, will be i % e- 
 membered, as well as its influence on the political aspirations of the poulterer's son, 
 John Home Tooke. Westward was built Leicester-street, where, in 1796, Charles 
 Dibdin, the song-writer, built his theatre, the " Sans Souci." 
 
 Savile House was sometimes called Aylesbury House, from the Earl of Aylesbury 
 residing here. It was let as a town-house for people of fashion : here the Earl of Car- 
 marthen entertained Peter the Great. It belonged to the Savile family, and here re- 
 sided Sir George Savile, M.P., in 1780, when, in the Riots, his house was stripped of its 
 valuable furniture, books, and paintings, which the rioters burnt in the Fields. The 
 Rev. W. Mason, in a letter to Walpole, 1778, speaks of the political wisdom of Sir 
 George Savile, "who chooses this very moment to indispose the whole body of Dissen- 
 ters towards him and his party by rising up the champion, of the Papists." Naturally, 
 this patron of toleration suffered, and in the Riots " the rails torn from Sir George's house 
 were the chief weapons and instruments of the mob." Their conduct was ferocious ; 
 for the accounts state Sir George's life to have been shortened by their threats. How- 
 ever, he must have been a strong partisan, for Wilberforce notes : " Sir George 
 Savile was chosen member for Yorkshire by the Whig grandees in the Marquis of 
 Rockingham's dining-room." The attack upon Savile House by the Rioters of 1780 is 
 referred to in a letter to Richard Shackletou from Edmund Burke, who then lived in 
 Charles-street, St. James's ; telling how he spent his nights with other volunteer 
 friends of rank in guarding Sir George Savile's house : " For four nights," he 
 says, " I kept watch at Lord Rockingham's, or Sir George Savile's, whose houses 
 were garrisoned by a strong body of soldiers, together with numbers of true friends 
 of rank." 
 
 At the commencement of the present century, Savile House was rebuilt by the 
 late Mr. Samuel Page, of Dulwich, an architect of some eminence at the time. 
 The famous Chancery suit of " Page v. Linwood and others," which lasted forty 
 years, related to this property. Lord Chancellor Cottenham, when Mr. Pepys, was 
 counsel for the plaintiff; and Mr. Sugden, now Lord St. Leonards, was counsel for 
 Miss Linwood. 
 
 Miss Linwood' 's Needlework was exhibited at Savile House from the commencement 
 of the present century until the year after her death in 1845, in her 90th year. She 
 worked her first picture when thirteen years old, and the last piece when seventy-eight 
 years. The designs were executed with fine crewels dyed expressly for her, on a thick 
 tammy, and were entirely drawn and embroidered by herself. In 1785, the pictures 
 were exhibited to the .Royal Family at Windsor ; next at the Pantheon, Oxford-street; 
 removed in 1798 to the Hanover-square Rooms; and then to Leicester-square. The 
 collection consisted of sixty-four pictures, including a portrait of Miss Linwood, at 19, 
 from a crayon painting by Russell ; her first piece, Head of St. Peter (Guido) ; Salvator 
 Mundi (Carlo Dolci), for which 3000 guineas had been refused (this picture was be- 
 queathed by Miss Linwood to her Majesty) ; Woodman in a Storm (Gainsborough) ; 
 Jephtha's Rash Vow (Opie). The pictures were sold by auction, by Christie and 
 Manson, at Savile House, April 23, 1846, when the Judgment upon Cain, which occu- 
 pied ten years working, brought 64/. 1*. ; the price of neither of the other pictures ex- 
 ceeding 40Z. The original Hubert and Arthur, by Northcote, sold for 381. 17s. The 
 entire sale did not realize 1000Z. 
 
 At Savile House the National Political Union held its Reform meetings; and here
 
 LEICESTER-SQUARE. 513 
 
 was exhibited, in 1849, an extensive moving Panorama of the Mississippi River, &c. 
 The place has since been a very Noah's Ark of exhibitions, of greater variety than deli- 
 cacy. The large building, Savile House, was destroyed by fire in less than two hours, 
 on the uight of February 28, 1865. 
 
 Leicester-square was built between 1630 and 1671. In 1677, rows of elm-trees 
 extended in the Fields nearly half the width of the present Square, which was enclosed 
 about 1738. In 1720, it was described as " ordinarily built and inhabited, except the 
 west side, towards the fields, where there is a very good house and curious garden 
 which fronts the fields." In the centre, upon a sculptured stone pedestal, is an equestrian 
 metal statue of George I., modelled by C. Buchard for the Duke of Chandos, and brought 
 from Canons in 1747, when it was purchased by the inhabitants of the Square : it was 
 "finely gilt," and within memory was regilt; but its history is much disputed.* 
 Over this statue was built a colossal Model of the Earth, which became one of the 
 most intellectual exhibitions of the metropolis. 
 
 The ground was leased, in 1851, for ten years, for 30001., to Mr. Wyld, the geographer, for whom was 
 erected here (H. R. Abraham, architect), a circular building 90 feet across, enclosing a Globe 60 feet 
 4 inches in diameter, and lighted by day from the centre of the dome (as at the Pantheon at Rome), and 
 by gas at night. The frame of the Globe consisted of horizontal ribs, battened to receive the plaster 
 modelling, thus to figure the earth's surface on the inside instead of the outside of a sphere, and to 
 show at one view the physical features of the world. The visitor passed into the interior of the Globe, 
 and by a winding staircase proceeded round it, viewing every part of the model at four feet distance from 
 the eye. The scale was ten miles to an inch horizontal, and one mile to an inch vertical, so as effectively 
 to exhibit the details of hill and valley, lake and river : the great oceans occupying nearly 150,000,000 
 square miles; and the old and new continents, and all the islands, only 60,000,000 square miles; the 
 gigantic model being made up of some thousand castings in plaster. The Circumpolar Regions were 
 similarly illustrated. At the termination of the lease the building and Globe were remoi el. 
 
 At No. 47, Leicester- square, west side, Sir Joshua Reynolds lived from 1761 till his 
 death in 1792. Here he built a gallery for his works, and set up a gay coach, upon the 
 panels of which he painted the Four Seasons. 
 
 Here were given those famous dinner-parties, the first great example in this country "of a cordial 
 intercourse between persons of distinguished pretensions of all kinds : poets, physicians, lawyers, deans, 
 historians, actors, temporal and spiritual peers, House of Commons men, men of science, men of letters, 
 painters, philosophers, and lovers of the arts, meeting on a ground of hearty ease, good humour, and 
 pleasantry, which exalt my respect for the memory of Reynolds. It was no prim fine table he set them 
 down to. Often was the dinner-board prepared for seven or eight required to accommodate itself to fifteen 
 or sixteen ; for often, on the very eve of dinner, would Sir Joshua tempt afternoon visitors with intima- 
 tion that Johnson, or Garrick, or Goldsmith, was to dine there." Forster's Life of Goldsmith, p. 253. 
 
 Sir Joshua painted in an octagonal room ; the sticks of his brushes were 18 inches 
 long ; he held his palettes by handle ; one of mahogany, 11 by 7 inches, is possessed 
 by Mr. Cribb, King-street, Covent-garden, whose father received it from Sir Joshua's 
 niece, the Marchioness of Thomond. Here, in 1790, the good-natured bachelor P.R.A. 
 painted for two schoolboys a flag bearing the Royal arms, which was borne at the next 
 breaking-up of King's Academy, Chapel-street, Soho. 
 
 Reynolds came to town in 1740, and, probably, lived during his apprenticeship of two years at 
 Hudson's house, now Nos. 55 and 56, Great Queen-street, Lincoln's-inn-fields ; on returning from Italy 
 he had rooms at 104, St. Martin's-lane, Thornhill's and Hayman's house, in front of the first studio of 
 Roubiliac ; the site of the latter is now occupied by a Friends' Meeting-house, but, intermediately, was 
 the subscription drawing-academy under Moser. From St. Maitin's-lane, in 1753, Reynolds removed to 
 a whole house, No. 5, Great Newport-street. In 1760 he removed, for the last time, to No. 47, Leicester- 
 square. On going to Great Newport-street, he raised his price for heads to twelve guineas, and, in a 
 few years, to fifteen guineas. In 1758 he had no fewer than 150 sitters, and worked prodigiously hard j 
 the number of sittings for each portrait varies from five to sixteen. In 1759 he got twenty guineas 
 for a head ; the following year twenty-five guineas ; soon after this he was earning 60001. a year. He 
 left his residuary legatee, the Marchioness of Thomond, nearly, one of the editors thinks, lOO.OOOZ. ; and 
 to others what was, probably, worth nearly 20.000Z. 
 
 The house was afterwards the Western Literary and Scientific Institution, when was 
 added a theatre, designed by George Godwin, F.R.S., for lectures. The premises are 
 now occupied by Puttick and Simpson, the book-auctioneers : the noble staircase 
 remains, and the wine-cellar is now used as a strong-room. 
 
 On the opposite side of the Square, in the house subsequently the northern wing of 
 the Sabloniere Hotel, lived William Hogarth from 1733 ; his name upon a brass-plate 
 on the door, and the sign of the Golden Head over it : this head, of pieces of 
 cork glued together, Smith (in his Life of NolleJcens) tells us was cut by Hogarth's 
 
 * This statue has also been described as that of the Duke of Cumberland, the hero of Culleden, 
 which may have arisen from the Duke's birth at Leicester House in 1721. The Earl of Aylesbury, one 
 of the trustees of the Canons estate, and who resided in Leicester-square, may have influenced the 
 statue being placed here. 
 
 L L
 
 514 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 own hand. In the European Magazine for 1801, it is stated that the apart- 
 ment which Hogarth had erected for painting was still in existence as the billiard- 
 room of the Sabloniere, for which its top lighting would peculiarly adapt it. 
 Hogarth usually took his evening walk within the enclosure of the square, in a scarlet 
 roquelaure and cocked hat. Hogarth published, by subscription, the Harlot's and Hake's 
 Progresses, and other prints : he died here suddenly, Oct. 25, 1764. Next door lived 
 John Hunter from 1783 : in the rear he built rooms for his anatomical collection, lectures, 
 dissection, Sunday-evening medical levees, &c. ; and from here, in 1793, Hunter was 
 buried in St.' Martin's Church. To No. 28, also east, was removed the National Repository 
 (on the plan of the Arts et Metiers at Paris) from the King's Mews, taken down in 1830 ; 
 and here was temporarily housed, in 1836, the Museum of the Zoological Society. 
 
 In the centre of the east side of the Square the Panopticon of Science and Art was 
 erected 1852-3, by a chartered company for a polytechnic exhibition : it has a pair 
 of minarets nearly 100 feet high, a domed roof, and other eastern features. The 
 interior had a hall 97 feet in diameter, lecture-theatres, laboratory, colossal machinery 
 for experiments ; an electrifying machine, plate eight feet diameter, &c. The building 
 is now the Alhambra Palace, a gigantic music hall. 
 
 Burford's Panorama, at the north-east angle of Leicester-square, was erected in 
 1783, by a number of patrons of the arts, who were repaid their capital by Robert 
 Barker, the inventor of the Panorama, succeeded by Henry Aston Barker, and John 
 and Robert Burford. The building is now a French Chapel. 
 
 In Leicester-place, Charles Dibdin, the song-writer, built in 1796 the Sans Souci 
 theatre for his musical entertainment : the premises, No. 2, now an hotel, occupy the 
 site of The Feathers public-house, frequented by " Athenian Stuart ;" Scott, the 
 marine painter ; Luke Sullivan, the miniature painter, who engraved Hogarth's March 
 to Finchley ; Capt. Grose and Mr. Hearne, the antiquaries ; Henderson, the actor ; 
 John Ireland, editor of Hogarth Moralised, &Q. 
 
 In Lisle-street is the Royal Society of Musicians, founded in 1738 for the benefit of 
 the families of indigent musicians : it originated in the two orphan sons of Kaitch, the 
 oboist, being seen driving milch-asses down the Haymarket. In Lisle-street lived 
 Henry Bone, R.A., the enamel-painter, who received for an enamel, 18 by 16 inches, 
 2200 guineas : he died 1834, aged 80, leaving a long series of Elizabethan portraits. 
 His collection of beautiful enamels was dispersed by auction, in March, 1856. 
 
 In Cranbourne-alley (named from the second title of the Marquis of Salisbury, the 
 ground-landlord), lived Ellis Gamble, silversmith, to whom Hogarth was apprenticed 
 to learn silver-plate engraving, and engraving on copper ; and from 1718 till 1724 he 
 earned his livelihood by engraving arms, crests, ciphers, shop-bills, &c. An impression 
 of Hogarth's allegorical shop-card, dated 1720, has been sold for 251. The fame of the 
 place had dwindled to a " Cranbourne-alley bonnet," ere. Cranbourne-street was built. 
 
 In St. Martin' s-street, next the chapel, is the last town residence of Sir Isaac Newton, 
 who removed here, in 1710, from Jermyn-street : upon thereof is a small observatory, 
 built by a subsequent tenant, a Frenchman, but long shown as Newton's. In a scarce 
 pamphlet, A List of the Royal Society, fyc., in 1718, we find : " Sir Isaac Newton, 
 St. Martin's-street, Leicester-fields." The house was subsequently tenanted by Dr. 
 Burney, when writing his History of Music : and his daughter, Fanny, wrote here her 
 novel of Evelina. Mr. Bewley, " the philosopher of Massingham," died here, during 
 a visit to Dr. Burney, who, in an anecdote related to Boswell (Life of Johnson), 
 erroneously states Newton to have died here : he died at Kensington (see p. 488). 
 
 Fanny Burney (Madame D'Arblay), writes from here in 1779 and 1780 (Diary and Letters, vol. i.); 
 and Mr. Thrale, writing to Miss Burney, styles the inmates of the house in St. Martin's-street, " dear 
 
 Newtonians." 
 
 In Green-street, at now No. 11, lived William Woollett, the landscape and historical 
 engraver, known by his masterly plates of Wilson's pictures and his battle-pieces : when 
 he had finished a plate, he used to fire a cannon on the roof of his house : his portrait, 
 by Stuart, hangs in the Vernon Collection. He died 1785, and is buried at Old St. 
 Pancras; his grave-stones were restored by the Graphic Society in 1846. 
 
 In Orange-court, Leicester-fields, lodged Opie, the painter ; and here was born 
 Dec. 10, 1745, Thomas Holcroft, his father, a shoemaker. 
 
 " Cradled in poverty, with no education save what he could pick up for himself, amid incessant 
 struggles for bare existence by turns a pedlar, a stable-boy, a shoemaker, and a strolling-player he
 
 LEVELS. 
 
 515 
 
 yet contrived to surmount the most untoward circumstances, and at last took his place among the most 
 distinguished writers of his age as a novelist, a dramatist, and a translator." Preface to Holcroft'i 
 Life, by William Hazlitt. 
 
 Leicester-square has long been the resort and habitat of foreigners ; and Maitland 
 (1739) describes the parish (St. Anne's) so greatly abounding with French, " that it is 
 an easy matter for a stranger to imagine himself in France." Of the Hotels in the 
 Square, the principal were Huntley's and Brunei's ; and La Sabloniere, named from the 
 famous Parisian cook. 
 
 LEVELS. 
 
 THE data for the following Levels, from actual surveys and private documents, 
 adopting the standard of Trinity High Water Mark at London Bridge, have 
 been communicated through the courtesy of Mr. Wyld, the geographer. 
 
 Feet, 
 
 Berkeley-square 67 
 
 British Museum 72 
 
 Brompton-square 12 
 
 Caledonian-road: Great Northern Railway 112 
 
 Camden Town : Brecknock Arms .... 150 
 Camden Town : London and North- Western 
 
 Railway Station 100 
 
 Clapham Common (S.W.) 93 
 
 Drury-lane, opposite Great Queen-street . 66 
 
 Farringdon-street 11 
 
 Gloucester-road, Kensington 18 
 
 Guildhall, King-street 37 
 
 Hampstead Heath 424 
 
 (84 feet higher than the cross of St. Paul's 
 
 Cathedral.) 
 
 Hampstead Vale (Waterworks) .... 207 
 (5 feet higher than the top of the Monu- 
 ment.) 
 
 Haverstock Hill : Orphan School .... 258 
 (28 feet higher than the steeple of St. 
 Bride's Church, Fleet-street.) 
 
 Highbury Barn 132 
 
 (12 feet higher than the towers of St. 
 Michael's Church, Cornhill, and St. 
 Dunstau's, Fleet-street.) 
 
 Highgate Archway (top) ....... 317 
 
 Tavern 179 
 
 Highgate Chapel (removed) 412 
 
 Holloway : New City Prison (surface) . . 112 
 Horusey Wood House and Tavern (site) . 147 
 Hyde-park : site of Great Exhibition Build- 
 ing 62 
 
 Islington : Angel Inn 99 
 
 Ball's Pond-road 59 
 
 Green 115 
 
 Mansion House 32 
 
 New Oxford-street, opposite Charlotte-st. 
 
 Bloomsbury 72 
 
 New River : Stoke Newington Reservoir . 87 
 
 New-road: Gower-street 76 
 
 Notting-hill (by St. John's Wood) ... 85 
 
 Notting-hill Reservoir 123 
 
 Nunhead Cemetery Hill 189 
 
 (14 feet higher than the spire of St. Giles's 
 
 Church.) 
 
 Park-lane, halfway 69 
 
 Feet. 
 
 Pentonville Prison (surface) 120 
 
 Resent' s-park : York and Albany .... 99 
 (The houses in Circus-road, St. John's 
 Wood, are level with the summit of 
 Primrose Hill.) 
 
 Serpentine (surface) 38 
 
 Shooter's-hill 412 
 
 Shoreditch Workhouse, Kingsland-road . 61 
 Smithfield: St. Bartholomew's Hospital . 45 
 
 Stamford-hill 97 
 
 Strand, average 20 
 
 Westbourne - terrace, Hyde-park - gardens, 
 (ground-floor) ; 70 feet above high-water 
 mark, and on a level with the attics of 
 Eaton and Belgrave-squares. 
 Westminster: the further we proceed from 
 the river, the lower the ground becomes, 
 thus: 
 
 Above 
 high-water 
 
 mark. 
 St. Margaret's-street, near Canning's 
 
 statue 52^ 
 
 Millbank-street 44$ 
 
 West-end of Tothill-street 9 
 
 Broad-way 9 
 
 New-way 6J 
 
 Old Pye-street 5t 
 
 Below 
 high-water. 
 
 New Tothill-street 3i 
 
 Road in front of Mr. Elliot's dwelling- 
 house Hi 
 
 Palmer's Village 12J 
 
 31r. Bardtcell, the Architect. 
 
 The architect of the New Prison was com- 
 pelled to raise the ground 7 feet ; the ground 
 has also been much raised around the New 
 Palace, over and above that which was made 
 when the Birdcage Walk was carried over the 
 site of Rosamond's Pond. 
 
 Again, the sill of a door in Park-street is 
 somewhat more than 8 feet higher than the sill 
 of a door in Tothill-street, Dartmouth-street 
 only intervening. 
 
 From the Report of the Commissioners for the Improvement of the Metropolis, 
 
 Ft. in. 
 
 Chatham-place (pavement at the top of 
 the Bridge Stairs) 16 8 
 
 Fleet-street (east end of), centre of road- 
 
 " 11 
 
 2 
 
 way ... 15 
 
 Opposite St. Bride's Church 21 
 
 Crown-court . . 27 6 
 
 Water-lane ... 30 7 
 
 St.Uunstan's-court 34 1 
 
 Fetter-lane ... 38 4 
 
 St.Dunstan'sChur. 38 6 
 
 Chancery-lane . . 36 6 
 
 At Temple Bar 35 3 
 
 The Strand. St. Clement's Church (east 
 
 end) 30 9 
 
 Opposite Arundel-street . . 34 8 
 
 The Strand. Opposite Norfolk-street . . 
 
 Surrey street . . 
 
 Somerset House . 
 
 Wellington-street . 
 
 Exeter-street 
 
 Southampton-st. . 
 
 Agar-street . . . 
 
 Hungerford Market 
 
 Morley'sHotel(west 
 
 angle) .... 
 
 Statue of Charles I 
 
 Whitehall. Opposite Craig's-court . . 
 Scotland-yard . . 
 
 Whitehall-place (west end) 
 
 Whitehall-place (east end) 
 
 ft l. 2 
 
 1843. 
 
 Ft. in. 
 
 36 7 
 
 37 2 
 39 * 
 37 3 
 36 
 
 35 
 
 7 
 1 
 
 35 
 28 11 
 
 19 9 
 
 13 
 
 6 2 
 
 4 5 
 
 4 8 
 
 5 10
 
 516 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The highest ground in London is about the middle of Panyer-alley, between New- 
 gate-street and Paternoster-row ; the spot being denoted by a boy sitting upon a 
 pannier, upon a pedestal, all of stone ; the latter inscribed, " WHEN YE HATE SOTGHT 
 
 THE ClTTY ROVND, YET STILL THIS IS THE HIGH*- GROYND. AVGVST THE 27, 1688." 
 
 The made ground and accumulated debris occurring in the City, and anciently 
 populated parts adjacent, varies from 8 to 18 feet in thickness; in Westminster, from 
 6 to 12 feet. 
 
 LIBRARIES. 
 
 " fpHE greatest city in the world is destitute of a public library," wrote Gibbon 
 -L towards the close of the last century; since which period much has been done 
 to afford the masses facilities for mental culture by an open public library from which 
 books may be taken out. 
 
 AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF ENGLAND (ROYAL), 12, Hanover-square ; library of the 
 Board of Agriculture, increased by purchases, &c. 
 
 ANTIQTJ ABIES, SOCIETY OP, Somerset House : valuable collections of red Broadsides 
 and Ballads; rare Prints, illustrating Ancient London; the Book of St. Albans, fol. 
 St. Albans, 1486, finest state. Among the MSS/ are,' 1. Cartulary of the Abbey of 
 Peterborough. 2. Original MS. of Weever's Funeral Monuments. 3. Indentures for 
 Coining Money in England and Ireland, from Edward I. to Elizabeth. 4. The 
 " Winton Domesday," on 33 leaves of vellum, and in the original stamped cuirbouilli 
 covers: this MS. (temp. Edward I.) contains an exact account of every tenement in 
 Winchester at that period. 5. Original Letters of Antiquaries and Literary men 
 (18th century). 6. Letters of Eminent Englishmen (17th century). Autograph of 
 John Bunyan, doubtful. The Society's Transactions, Arch&ologia, commenced 1710. 
 The library consists of nearly 10,000 volumes, and is richest in topography, its 
 collection of county histories, &c. 
 
 ARCH.EOLOGICAL SOCIETIES, the several, have libraries and museums. 
 ARTILLERY GEOTJND, or Military Yard, behind Leicester House. 
 
 Near Leicester-fields, upon the site of Gerrard-street, was a piece of .ground walled in by Prince 
 Henry, eldest son of James I., for the exercise of arms; where, were, an armoury, and a well-furnished 
 library of books relating to feats of arms, chivalry, military affairs, encamping, fortification, in all 
 languages, and kept by a learned librarian. It was called the Artillery Ground; and after the Restora- 
 tion of Charles II. it was bought by Lord Gerard, and let for building, about 1677. 
 
 ASIATIC SOCIETY (ROYAL), 5, New Burlington -street : scarce books and MSS., 
 including a collection of Sanscrit MSS., formed by Colonel Tod in Rajasthan. Here 
 is a Chinese Library, of which see the catalogue, by the Rev. S. Kidd, 1838. 
 
 ASTRONOMICAL SOCIETY (ROYAL), Somerset House: valuable collection of astro- 
 nomical works, including Peter Apian's Opus Ccesareum, printed at Ingolstadt in 1540; 
 and the library of the Mathematical Society, from Spitalfields. 
 
 BANK OF ENGLAND LIBRARY, instituted by the Directors for the use of the clerks, 
 was opened May, 1850 ; the Court having voted 5001. for the purchase of books. 
 
 BARBER-SURGEONS' HAIL, Monkwell-street : a curious collection of rare books on 
 olden Anatomy. 
 
 BEAUMONT INSTITUTION, Mile- end, built and endowed with 13,000?. by Mr. Barber 
 Beaumont, has a library of 4000 volumes, a music-hall, and museum of natural history. 
 
 BIBLE SOCIETY, BRITISH AND FOREIGN, 10 Earl-street, Blackfriars : collection of 
 versions of the Scriptures, in various languages or dialects. The bulk of this invaluable 
 biblical library consists of copies of the Scriptures, including, in addition to those in 
 which the Bible Society has been immediately concerned, rare copies of the first or 
 early editions of the Bible in various languages; and no national, collegiate, or private 
 biblical library can approach that of the Society. In addition to the printed Bibles, 
 there are also valuable copies of more or less of the Scriptures in manuscript, in about 
 fifty different languages, some of which have never yet appeared in print. A. consider- 
 able portion of this curious collection consists of lexicons, grammars, and other philo- 
 logic treatises, which refer to the business of translation. This library contains also a
 
 LIBRAEIES. 517 
 
 large assortment of commentaries, liturgies, catechisms, books of topography and travels, 
 and the reports of all the Bible Societies in the world. Next in attraction to the Bibles 
 in all languages, and the MSS. above referred to, is a collection of twelve folio volumes 
 in manuscript, containing the history of the translations in 94 languages, in which the 
 Society had been concerned down to 1829 j and similar materials are preserved for 
 continuing these historic records to the present time. Here also are early versions of 
 the Scriptures in such tongues as Welsh and Bohemian ; and invaluable Ethiopic and 
 Mexican manuscripts. Some of its rarest curiosities it owes to the liberality of Prince 
 Louis Lucien Bonaparte, who presented it with copies of the translations of the 
 versions of St. Matthew he has recently caused to be executed in Basque, and in the 
 lowland Scotch dialect. Of the former of these only twelve, of the latter only eighteen 
 copies have been printed. 
 
 BOTANICAL SOCIETY, 20, Bedford- street, Covent-garden, has a library of works on 
 botany for reference and circulation j besides British and general herbaria for the 
 exchange of specimens. 
 
 BRITISH MUSEUM. (See MUSEUMS.) 
 
 CHARTER-HOUSE, Aldersgate : a collection presented by booksellers and others for 
 the reading of the Brotherhood. In 1851 Queen Victoria presented the Quarterly 
 Revieiv, 86 vols. 
 
 CHELSEA HOSPITAL : History, Voyages, and Travels, and Military Memoirs, News- 
 papers, and Periodicals for the pensioners' reading. 
 
 CHRIST'S HOSPITAL, Newgate-street, " formerly the Grey Friars, hath a neat library 
 for the use of the masters and scholars ; besides a collection of mathematical instru- 
 ments, globes, ships, with all their rigging, for the instruction of the lads designed for 
 the sea." (H. Lemoine, 1790.) To the library of MSS., Whittington was a great 
 benefactor. The most considerable Franciscan collection of books seems to have been 
 at the London monastery, on the site of Christ's Hospital, Newgate-street, for which 
 the first stone of a new building was laid by Sir Richard Whittington, on the 21st of 
 October, 1421. After it was completed, 100 marks were expended on a transcript of 
 the Works of Nicholas de Lira, to be chained in the library. (Stow's Survey, by 
 Strype.) Whittington's Library was a handsome room, 129 feet long, and 31 feet 
 broad, wainscoted throughout, and fitted with shelves neatly carved, with desks and 
 settles : it formed the northern side of the quadrangle. 
 
 CHURCH MISSIONARY SOCIETY, Salisbury -square, Fleet-street: miscellaneous col- 
 lection, rich in voyages and travels. 
 
 CITY OF LONDON INSTITUTION, Aldersgate-street, commenced in 1825, contained 
 upwards of 7000 volumes for reference and circulation ; dispersed in 1852, when the 
 Institution was dissolved. 
 
 CIVIL ENGINEERS (INSTITUTION OF), 25, Great George-street, Westminster : up- 
 wards of 3000 volumes, and 1500 tracts, upon bridges, canals, railways, roads, docks, 
 navigation, ports, rivers, and water ; Transactions of Societies, Parliamentary Reports, 
 &c. Here are some volumes of MS. observations by Telford in his early engineering 
 career. This library has the advantage of a printed catalogue, admirably arranged by 
 C. Manby, Secretary to the Institution. 
 
 CLOCKMAKERS' COMPANY, London Tavern, Bishopsgate-street : a lending library of 
 valuable English, and foreign works on Horology and the allied sciences, with a printed 
 catalogue. 
 
 CLUB-HOUSES (The) have extensive general libraries. 
 
 COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS, Pall Mall East. (See p. 277.) In this collection are the 
 libraries of Selden and the Marquis of Dorchester ; and Sir Theodore Mayerne, physician 
 to James I. 
 
 COLLEGE OF SURGEONS, Lincoln's-inn-fields : library commenced by John Hunter's 
 donation of his published works on Anatomy and Surgery in 1786, the unique auto- 
 graph letter accompanying which is possessed by Mr. Stone, the present Librarian. 
 Sir Charles Blicke bequeathed his medical library, and 300Z. ; and the collection now
 
 518 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 numbers 30,000 volumes (cost 23,OOOZ.) ; mostly works on the history, science, and 
 practice of medicine and the collateral sciences: its collection of Transactions and 
 Journals is very perfect. 
 
 Among the Curioiitiet is " Approved Medicines and Cordiall Receipts," dated 1580 : it bears in 
 several places the signature and initials of Shakspeare ; but it was bought at the sale of forger Ireland's 
 effects. Among the early books are a Compendium Medicines nondum Medicis aed Cyrurgis utilissimum, 
 1510, by Gilbertus Anglicns, circ. 1230 : the works of John of Goddesden, or Johannes Anglicus, circ. 
 1320. Herbarium Oermanice, 1485, beautifully illuminated, and bound in oak, brass ornaments, dated 
 1548; a collection of engraved portraits of medical men, formerly possessed by Fauntleroy, the banker, 
 and presented by him to William Wadd, the facete surgeon. The library, designed by Barry, extends the 
 entire length of the College facade; above the bookcases are a gallery and portraits of Harvey, Chesel- 
 den, Nesbitt, Nourse, Blizard, Hunter, Pott, &c.; and adjoining is a room with a collection of Voyages 
 and Travels, works on Natural History and Science. Members of the College can introduce a visitor. 
 
 CORPORATION OF LONDON LIBRARY, Guildhall. It appears that in 1411 the 
 Guildhall College was furnished with a library founded by the executors of Richard 
 Whittington, and that to this was added a portion of the library of John Carpenter, 
 the Town Clerk of the City, and the founder of the City of London School. The will 
 of Carpenter says : " I direct, that if any good or rare books shall be found among 
 the residue of my goods which, by the discretion of Masters William Lichfleld and 
 Reginald Pocock, may seem necessary for the common library at Guildhall, for the 
 profit of the students there and those discoursing to the common people, then I will 
 and bequeath that those books be placed by my executors and chained in that library, 
 under such form that the visitors and students thereof may be the sooner admonished 
 to pray for my soul." It appears that in 1457 John Clipstone, priest and bedeman, 
 was appointed librarian. He was succeeded, in 1510, by Edmund Alison, also a priest ; 
 and at this date, according to Stow, the books constituted " a fayre and large librarie." 
 According to this chronicler, the whole of these books, four carts full, were borrowed 
 by Edward Duke of Somerset, the Lord Protector, with a promise of their speedy 
 return, which, however, never took place. The citizens, thus deprived of their library, 
 formed a new collection, of which but little is known, except that it was entirely 
 destroyed in the Fire of 1666. From that period it does not appear that any fresh 
 library was formed to the present one, founded in 1824, and which now numbers about 
 25,000 volumes. In 1828 was published A Catalogue of the books, to which have since 
 been made valuable additions. It is enriched with a choice collection of 950 original Royal 
 proclamations, published by King Charles I., the Parliament, the Protector, Charles II., 
 James II., and William III.; also 400 volumes of Hebrew and Rabbinical literature, 
 presented by Mr. Philip Salamons. The present Catalogue contains a valuable Index: 
 of names, ably compiled by the librarian, Mr. W. H. Overall. 
 
 The Library is rich in works relating to the Cities of London and Westminster, and 
 the Borough of Southwark ; rare tracts preceding, accompanying, and following the 
 Commonwealth ; and several volumes of original proclamations, temp. 1638 to 1698. 
 Here are Domesday Survey and the Monasticon ; in history, Ven. Bede, Matthew 
 Paris, Decent, Scriptores, and other old English chroniclers ; in foreign history, 
 Kscmpfer, Pontoppidan, Wormius, Duhalde, D'Herbelot, Mezeray, &c. ; Hakluyt's 
 Voyages, first edit, black letter, and Evans's very brilliant edit. 5 vols. 4to ; Lysons's 
 Environs of London, with drawings, prints, and armorial bearings, 13 thick volumes, 
 perhaps the most elaborately illustrated work extant. Among the recent additions are : 
 the great French work on Egypt, 14 vols. atlas folio, and 9 vols. folio letterpress ; 
 II Vaticano, by Erasmus Pistolesi, 8 vols. folio ; M'Kenney's History of the Indian 
 Tribes of North America (superb coloured engravings), 3 vols. folio. Portfolios of 
 Maps, Views, and Plans of London, of various dates from Aggas to Stanford. The 
 library of the Dutch Church, Austinfriars, has been deposited here with the MSS. 
 and letters of the early Reformers and men of science. 
 
 Hook Rarities: Nuremberg Chronicle, 1493, with MS. Notes, sixteenth century, and Lists of Bailiffs, 
 Mayors, and Sheriffs of London, 1st Rich. I. to 4 Hen. VIII., with marginal notes of events : woodcuts, 
 mostly coloured. Complaint of Roderick Mars, sometime a Gray Fryare (Geneva), said by Kennet to 
 have been written by Henry Brincklow, a London merchant. Bonner's Profitable and Necessary Doc- 
 trine, bl. 1. 1555. Declaration of Bonner's Article, bl. 1. 1561. A Boke made by John Fryth, Prysoner 
 in the Tower of London, bl. 1. 1546. The Actes of English Votary es, by John Bale, bl. 1 . 1546. The Castel 
 ofHelth (by Sir Jo. Elyot, bl. 1. 1541. The Sumynge of Paule's Church, &c. (written against Popery, 
 by Pilkington, Bishop of Durham), bl. 1. 1591. Legenda Sanctorum, fol. bl. 1. n. d. Codex Sinaiticus* 
 presented by the Emperor of Russia. A collection of early printed Plays and Pageants.
 
 LIBRARIES. 519 
 
 Among the autographic Curiosities is the Charter granted by William the Con- 
 queror to the City of London in 1067. It is beautifully written in Saxon characters, 
 in about four lines, upon a slip of parchment six inches long and one broad. 
 
 Also, in a glass-case, is the signature of Shakspeare, purchased in 1843, by the Cor- 
 poration of London for 1451. : it is affixed to a deed of bargain and sale of " all that 
 messuage or tente with the app'tennes lyeing and being in the blackfryers in London, 
 neare the Wardrobe," by Henry Walker to William Shakspeare, dated March 10, 
 1612-13, and has the seals attached, and the names of the attesting witnesses on the 
 back. The house is described as " abutting upon a streete leading down to Pudle 
 wharffe" (now St. Andrew's Hill), and was in Ireland-yard, named after the tenant, 
 William Ireland, about the time of the above sale : it was bequeathed by Shakspeare in 
 his will to his daughter, Susannah Hall. Here, too, is the sign-stone of the Soar's 
 Head Tavern. The Museum attached to the Library is particularly rich in antiqui- 
 ties discovered in the City of London during numerous excavations. 
 
 COTTOXIAN LIBRABY (The), now in the British Museum, was collected by Sir Robert 
 Bruce Cotton, the learned antiquary, who greatly profited by the dissolution of monas- 
 teries half a century before, by which the records, charters, and instruments were 
 thrown into private hands. Sir Robert Cotton was the friend of Camden, and greatly 
 assisted him in his Britannia. The library was kept at Cotton House, at the west end 
 of Westminster Hall, and was greatly increased by Sir Robert's son and grandson ; in 
 1700 it was purchased by Act of Parliament, and in 1706 Cotton House was sold to 
 the Crown for 4500Z. ; bat the mansion falling into decay, in 1712 the library was re- 
 moved to Essex House, Strand ; and thence, in 1730, to Ashburnham House, West- 
 minster. Here, October 23, 1731, a destructive fire broke out, by which 111 MSS. were 
 lost, burnt, or entirely defaced, and 99 rendered imperfect. What remained were re- 
 moved into the new dormitory of Westminster School. In 1738 was bequeathed to the 
 collection Major Arthur Edwards's library of 2000 printed volumes ; and in 1757 the 
 whole were transferred to the British Museum. The Cottonian collection originally 
 contained 958 volumes of original Charters, Royal Letters, Foreign State Correspon- 
 dence, Ancient Registers : it was kept in cases, upon which were the heads of the twelve 
 Caesars; and the MSS. are distinguished by the press-marks of the Csesars. Humphrey 
 Wanley published a catalogue of the Cottonian Library, which is minutely noticed by 
 Chamberlayne, Magnee Britannia Notitia, 1726. Above the bookcases were portraits 
 of the three Cottons, Judge Doddridge, Spelman, Camden, Dugdale, Lambard, Speed, 
 &c. An extended catalogue was printed in 1802. 
 
 Besides MSS., the Cottonian collection contained Saxon and old English coins, and Roman and 
 English antiquities, all now in the British Museum. Sir Robert Cotton aided Speed in his History of 
 England, and Knolles in his Turkish History. Sir Walter Raleigh, Selden, and Bacon drew materials 
 from the Cottouian Library ; and, in our time, Lingard's and Sharon Turner's Histories of England, and 
 numerous other works, have proved its treasures unexhausted. DANIEL'S, G., LIBHAKY, Canonbury 
 (See MUSEUMS.) 
 
 DEPARTMENT OP PBACTICAL AET, South Kensington : a collection of works of 
 reference for Manufactures and Ornamental Art, originally formed for the Schools of 
 Design. About 1500 volumes on architecture, sculpture, painted glass, general antiqui- 
 ties, and decoration ; prints and drawings, including Raphael's Arabesques, coloured ; 
 original Sketches of the Cathedral of Messina, and the Church of St. Ambrose, Milan ; 
 and many elementary and practical works on art and ornamental design. 
 
 DOCTOES' COMMONS (College of Advocates). (See p. 313.) 
 DULWICH COLLEGE LIBEAEY. (See p. 274.) 
 
 DUTCH CHTTECH, Austin Friars : for the use of foreign Protestants and their clergy : 
 containing MSS. and Letters of Calvin, Peter Martyr, and others, foreign Reformers : 
 the Ten Commandments, believed to be in the handwriting of Rubens. This collection 
 of books and MSS. was made by Maria Dubois, a pious lady, and was placed at the 
 west end of the church, over the screen, in an apartment inscribed thus : " Ecclesia? 
 Londino-Belgia? Bibliotheca, extructa sumptibus Maria? Dubois, 1659." Additions to 
 the collection were made from time to time by the Dutch Ambassadors, the Dutch East 
 India Company, and the wealthy members of the congregation. Its autographic trea- 
 sures include a very interesting collection of letters of the early ecclesiastical Re-
 
 520 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 formers among others, of Erasmus, Calvin, and Beza, Bucer, Peter Martyr ; Grindal, 
 Archbishop of Canterbury ; Vizet ; John & Lasco, the first Minister of the Dutch 
 Church in London ; Bullinger, and of John Fox, the martyrologist ; likewise letters of 
 the principal founders of the Dutch Republic, including the Prince of Orange, after- 
 wards William I. ; Sir Philip de Marinix, Count d'Albegonde, the Admiral of the 
 Dutch fleet. One collection also contains 272 original letters to Abraham Ortelius, 
 geographer to Philip II. of Spain, from the chief learned and scientific men of the age. 
 Here likewise are portrait-etchings of Albert Durer, by himself; Olertius Christopher 
 Plantin, printer of the polyglot Hible ; of Cardinal Ximenes, Gerard Mercator, William 
 Camden, Dr. John Dee, the great Lord Burghley ; the Earls of Leicester, Sussex, and 
 Lincoln ; several of the English Bishops of those times, and of the Lord Mayors of 
 London ; also the Ten Commandments, believed to be in the handwriting of Rubens. 
 The library principally consists of early theological works in Latin, German, Dutch, and 
 English ; good editions of the classics ; illuminated Bibles ; Blaeuw's View of the 
 different Continental States, in 1649, and the Embassy to China, 1670 in all about 
 2000 volumes, and with the old fittings complete. In the conflagration at the Dutch 
 Church, in 1862, this fine library was fortunately saved ; and upon the restoration of 
 the church, the Library was added to that of the Corporation at Guildhall. 
 
 EAST INDIA COMPANY'S LIBRARY: printed books and tracts relating to the history 
 and geography of the Eastern hemisphere ; the history, commerce, and administration of 
 the East India Company, printed in Europe or India ; books, drawings, and prints of the 
 people, scenery, and antiquities of Asiatic countries ; MSS. on palm-leaves in Sanscrit, 
 Burmese, and other languages of the Archipelago, and Sanscrit MSS. in 3000 bound 
 volumes ; Chinese printed works ; Tibetan Cyclopaedia, in 300 large oblong volumes, 
 printed with wooden blocks ; Arabic and Persian MSS. ; miniature copies of the Koran ; 
 another Koran, in old Cufic characters, written out by the Khalif Othman (d. A.D. 655), 
 and other volumes of the library of Tippoo Sultan ; his autograph " Register of Dreams," 
 &c. Open to students recommended. When the East India House was taken down, 
 the Library and Museum were removed to Fife House, Whitehall. (See MUSEUMS.) 
 
 ELLESMERE LIBRARY, Bridgewater House, Green Park, contains many hundred 
 manuscript plays, by all the dramatists who have written for the stage from the year 
 1737 to the year 1824. These are the copies which were from time to time sent 
 officially to the Licenser of Dramatic Compositions : and in many instances they bear 
 his marks and remarks for regulating the performance, and contain passages omitted 
 not only in the representation but in the editions afterwards printed from the acting 
 copies. The whole collection illustrates the history of our stage during nearly a cen- 
 tury since it proves at once with respect to revived dramas, who was or was not the 
 author of the additions and alterations a matter of doubt even within our own memory. 
 
 GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY (ROYAL), 3, Waterloo-place, Pall Mall : upwards of 4000 
 volumes, mostly geographical; 150 Atlases; more than 1000 pamphlets; 10,000 maps 
 and charts : available as a circulating library by the Fellows. 
 
 GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY'S LIBRARY, Somerset House, contains several rare and curious 
 treatises, &c., chiefly of the seventeenth century, and relating to the cosmogonical and 
 hypothetical notions about the earth and its structure, the origin and nature of minerals 
 and fossils, natural history, early chemistry, &c. 
 
 GRESHAM COLLEGE, Basinghall-street, has a small library of modern books for the 
 use of the lecturers. The College does not appear to have originally possessed a 
 library, but to have used that of the Royal Society, the removal of which to Crane- 
 court in 1710 proved a great disadvantage to the Gresham Professors. (Ward's Lives, 
 p. 175.) (See GRESHAM COLLEGE, p. 274.) The books subsequently possessed by the 
 College were burnt in the Royal Exchange, Jan. 10, 1838. 
 
 HALLS OF THE CITY COMPANIES (The), often contain collections of early treatises 
 upon their arts and mysteries. 
 
 HAELEIAN LIBRARY and MSS. (See MUSEUMS : British). 
 HEBREW LIBRARY, Duke's-place, Aldgate.
 
 LIBRARIES. 521 
 
 The Jews, in Bevis Marks, had a valuable library in their Synagogue, relating to their ceremonials 
 and Talmudical worship ; but some narrow minds among them conceiving that if they should get into 
 the hands of Christians, they would be disgraced by shameful translations, agreed among themselves to 
 cause them to be burnt ; for which purpose they employed some of their scribes, or tephilim writers, to 
 examine into the correctness of the copies; and receiving a report agreeable to their wishes, they had 
 them conveyed to Mile End, where they were all destroyed in a kiln ; for it is contrary to their maxim 
 ever to make waste paper of the sacred language. H. Lemoine: Gentleman's Magazine, July, 1790. 
 
 HERALDS' COLLEGE (College of Arms), see p. 275. Here is a curious collection of 
 works on Heraldry, Arms, Ceremonies, Coronations, Marriages, Funerals, Christenings, 
 and Visitations ; an ancient Nennius on vellum, and Robert of Gloucester's Chronicle. 
 
 HOETICTTLTITEAL SOCIETY, South Kensington : the largest collection of horticultural 
 works in the kingdom, and an assemblage of drawings of fruits and ornamental plants. 
 
 HOSPITALS, the several, possess medical libraries. 
 
 INCOEPOEATED LAW SOCIETY, Chancery -lane : the law and literature connected 
 with the profession; Votes, Reports, Acts, Journals, and other proceedings of Parlia- 
 ment ; County and Local Histories : topographical, genealogical, and antiquarian 
 works, &c. 
 
 INNS OP COUET. The INNER and MIDDLE TEMPLE each possesses a good library, 
 with valuable MSS. The INNER TEMPLE MSS., principally collected by William 
 Petyt, Esq., Keeper of the Tower Records, were presented by his trustees in 1707 : 
 they exceed 400 MSS., parliamentary statutes and common law, ecclesiastical records, 
 year-books, Hoveden, Higden, and other English historians, letters, and papers, with 
 signs-manual of kings and queens of England. MIDDLE TEMPLE LIBRARY, the 
 new building for which is described at p. 463, dates from 1641, when its founder, 
 Robert Ashley, a collateral ancestor of the Earl of Shaftesbury, left his whole 
 library, together with a large sum of money, to the Inn where he had received 
 his legal education. His example was followed by other distinguished Templars 
 of the time, and thus the Library was first established. The Irish Lord* Chief 
 Justice Pepys was a large benefactor to it. Ashmolo, Bartholomew Shower, and 
 William Petyt were among its most liberal supporters. Lord Stowell also left a 
 handsome legacy to it, which was expended chiefly on the purchase of books on 
 civil, canon, and international law. During the latter part of the last century many 
 volumes, in some way or other, disappeared from the shelves altogether, among them 
 some of the most scarce and valuable tracts, and 30 folio volumes of Votes of Parlia- 
 ment. In civil, canon, and international law books, and in the English, Scotch, Irish, 
 and American reports it is said to be very strong, and there is also a large collection 
 of books on divinity and ecclesiastical history. There is likewise an ample collection 
 of proclamations and other official documents relating to the times of the Civil War. 
 LINCOLN'S INN Library is described at p. 468 ; also in Spilsbury's Lincoln's Inn and 
 its Library ; GRAY'S INN, law and history p. 469. Most of the INNS OP CHANCERY 
 have also libraries. 
 
 KING'S COLLEGE, Somerset House, has large medical and general libraries ; including 
 the Marsden Library, 3000 volumes on Philosophy and Oriental Literature, presented 
 in 1835 by William Marsden, F.R.S. The Medical Library contains about 2000 volumes. 
 
 LAMBETH PALACE LIBRARY. (See p. 501.) 
 
 LINNEAN SOCIETY, Burlington House : the Library and Herbarium of Linnaeus, 
 purchased by Sir James Smith for 1000Z. In the Society's house, 32, Soho-square, Sir 
 Joseph Banks collected his valuable library of works on Natural History, now in the 
 Banksian department of the British Museum : the catalogue fills five octavo volumes, 
 and is very rare. 
 
 LITERARY FUND (ROYAL), 4, Adelphi-terrace : this is a collection of books, 
 mostly modern, and presents. Here is also the MS. of Thorlaksson's Icelandic 
 version of Paradise Lost, sent to the Institution by himself, through the Danish 
 Government. Here is the dagger with which Colonel Blood stabbed Edwards, keeper 
 of the Regalia in the Tower of London, when Blood attempted to carry off the crown ; 
 also a dagger taken from Parrot, Blood's accomplice. Both weapons are of French 
 manufacture, and very curious : they were beoueathed to the Institution by Mr. Thomas
 
 522 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Newton, who believing himself to be the last descendant of Sir Isaac Newton, left his 
 entire estate to the Literary Fund. 
 
 LONDON INSTITUTION, Finsbury-circus, commenced in 1806 with part of the library 
 of the first Marquis of Lansdowne, contains about 30,000 volumes : rich in English 
 Antiquities and Topography; scarce collection of Foreign Laws; several thousand 
 Tracts ; Bibliography, including rare editions from the early presses of Germany, Italy, 
 and France ; and fine specimens of the printing of the celebrated Antoine Verard, the 
 Wechels, the Stephani, Claude Morel, Christopher Plantin, Johann Froben, Guarinus, 
 Hieronymus Commelin, Henricus Petrus, the Aldi, the Sessae, Gabriel Giolito, and the 
 Giunti ; with some from the English printers, Julian Notary, Peter Treveris, Richard 
 Grafton, Thomas Marshe, John Cawood, &c. Professor Person, William Upcott, and 
 Richard Thomson, author of the Chronicles of London Bridge, 1827, were successively 
 librarians. This collection is valued at 40,OOOZ. 
 
 LONDON LIBRARY, 12, St. James's-square (the house tenanted by Lord Amherst 
 when Commander-in-chief), was established in May, 1841, at 57, Pall Mall, and removed 
 to St. James's-square in 1844. It is upon the subscription and lending plan, and the 
 collection admirable. 
 
 MATHEMATICAL SOCIETY, Crispin- street, Spitalfields, established in 1717, had a 
 library, of which a catalogue was published in 1821 ; but the books and archives were 
 removed to Somerset House in 1845, when the Mathematical Society merged into the 
 Royal Astronomical Society. (See p. 516.) 
 
 MECHANICS' INSTITUTE, Southampton-buildings, Holborn, founded by the philan- 
 thropic Dr. Birkbeck in 1823 ; who also, in 1825, advanced a large sum for building 
 the fine theatre of the Institution. The library has 6000 vols. 
 
 MEDICAL AND CHIRURGICAL SOCIETY, 53, Berners-street, Oxford-street : about 
 20,000 volumes on Medicine, Surgery, &c. 
 
 MEDICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, 32A, George-street, Hanover-square, has a collection 
 of books, including the library bequeathed by Dr. Lettsom, with a house in Bolt-court, 
 Fleet-street. (See p. 350.) 
 
 MERCHANT-TAYLORS' SCHOOL LIBRARY, Suffolk-lane, Cannon-street, contains a fair 
 collection of Hebrew and other Oriental works of reference ; some good copies of the 
 Fathers ; nearly all the standard classical and other Lexicons ; and the best writers in 
 English Theology. The Merchant-Taylors' Company devote thirty guineas per annum 
 to the increase and keeping up of this library ; and frequent presents have been made 
 to it by Members of the Court. 
 
 MICROSCOPICAL SOCIETY, 21, Regent-street : a library of standard works on the 
 Microscope; the perfection of which valuable instrument is the object of the 
 Institution. 
 
 MUSEUM OP PRACTICAL GEOLOGY, Jermyn-street, St. James's : rare edition of the 
 works of Aldrovandus ; collection of alchemical treatises and histories ; Kircher's 
 works ; olden Topography, Voyages and Travels ; collection of Surveys, &c. 
 
 NEW COLLEGE, St. John's Wood (see p. 277), possesses a library of 20,000 volumes, 
 including the theological collections from Coward, Homerton, and Highbury Colleges ; 
 and is otherwise rich in works for the Congregational denomination. 
 
 PARLIAMENT (HOUSES OF) possess large and valuable libraries. 
 
 PATENT SEAL OFFICE LIBRARY. This free scientific library consists of more than 
 25,000 volumes, well selected, and of a class character, and there is a conveniently- 
 arranged catalogue. In days of old the inventive faculty of man was taxed and made 
 profit of to Chancellors and Chaff-waxers. The records of patents were lodged in the 
 Rolls Chapel and other places, and the expense of inquiry was great ; the specifications 
 of patents were not printed, and the cost of obtaining even a specification amounted to 
 sums which varied from twelve guineas up to 500Z. ; the legal expenses of an old patent 
 amounted to 350Z. and upwards. Now, all the specifications of patents have been 
 printed, and they can be had at the rate of from 2d. to lOd. each copy. Of the patents
 
 LIBRARIES. 523 
 
 under the old patent law, the most ancient is the following : " A.D. 1617. No. 1. 
 Engraving and printing maps, plans, &c. ; Eathhurne & Surges' patent." This is the 
 first patent which has been printed. No. 2 patent is by Nicholas Hilliard, for draw- 
 ing, engraving, and printing portraits of the royal family. No. 3 is for constructing 
 locks, sluices, bridges, cranes, and obtaining or applying water-power. No. 4 (1617) 
 Protecting arms and armour from rust. No. 5 Manufacture of swords and rapier 
 blades, &c. No. 6 Patent to David Ramsey and Thomas Wildgoose. Ramsey seems 
 to have been one of the pages of the bedchamber. This invention is described as 
 follows : 
 
 " Newe, aptc, or comodius formes or kinde of engines or instruments, and other profitable invencions, 
 wayes, and means for the good of our commonwealth, as well to plough grounde without horse or oxen, 
 and enrich and make better and more fertile, as well barren bent, salt, and sea sand, as hi land and 
 upper land grounde within our kingdoms of England and Ireland, and our domynon of Wales ; as also 
 to rayae waters from ante lovie place to high places, for well watering of cittyes, towns, noblemen's and 
 gentlemen's houses, and other places now much wanting water, with, lesse charges than ever hath been 
 heretofore, and to make boats for the carriage of burthens and passengers run upon the voter, at iwift in 
 calm, and more safe in storms, than boats full-sayled in great wayes." 
 
 The inventions for the cure of smoke are numerous, and of several dates, notwith- 
 standing many of her Majesty's subjects are as smoke-dried as formerly. Mops, egg- 
 boilers, self-adjusting gloves, frying-pans, and other such manufactures have been 
 patented. There are also beverages and such like made patent; one of these is called 
 " A new beverage Gibson's Pinerium ; or, Aerated Sarsaparilla." 
 
 From 1617 to 1852, when the change in the law took place, we find, in this 
 library, the record of 14,359 patents : of these the payment for extension to fourteen 
 years only seems to apply to 7529. Since the new law has made patents more easy of 
 obtainment, the specifications were more numerous than those which in the Chaff- 
 wax days were recorded during more than two centuries. On an average about 
 3000 petitions for provisional protection are presented in each year : only 1950 
 inventions reach the patented state ; and but 550 patents pay the stamp duty re- 
 quired at the expiration of each year : probably not more than 100 of these 550 
 patents will pay the additional stamp duty required at the end of the seventh year. 
 Among the printed records, we see the dawnings of steam-power, the electric tele- 
 graph, and gas-lighting. In 1652, 262 patents were taken out for fire-arms. One 
 Puckle puts his specification in rhyme, and says : 
 
 " Defending King George, your country and laws, 
 In defending yourself and country's cause, 
 For bridges, trenches, lines and passes, 
 Ships, boats, houses, and other places." 
 
 ST. PAUL'S CATHEDEAL Library, in the gallery over the southern aisle, was col- 
 lected by Bishop Compton : 7000 volumes, with MSS. relating to Old St. Paul's. 
 (See p. 111.) 
 
 ST. PAUL'S SCHOOL, St. Paul's Churchyard, formerly contained the library of Dean 
 Colet, the founder ; but the books were destroyed in the Great Fire, with Mr. Crom- 
 lehome, the upper Master's curious stock, the best private collection then about 
 London : he was a great lover of his books, and the loss of them hastened the loss of 
 his life. They have been supplied by lexicons, dictionaries, and grammars, in Hebrew, 
 Chaldee, Greek, and Latin, for the use of the upper scholars. Here is the reputed 
 copy of Vegetius de re Milita/ri, which Maryborough used when a pupil at the school. 
 The original statutes of this school were accidentally picked up at a bookseller's by the 
 late Mr. Hamper, of Birmingham, and by him presented to the British Museum. 
 
 PHAEMACEUTICAL SOCIETY (The), 17, Bloomsbury-square, has a library, museum, 
 and laboratory. 
 
 ROTAL ACADEMY OF AETS, Trafalgar-square : all the best works on art ; besides 
 prints, including a valuable collection of engravings from the Italian School, from the 
 earliest period, collected by George Cumberland. The former library room, at 
 Somerset-house, has a ceiling painted by Angelica Kauffinann, Sir Joshua Reynolds, 
 and other Academicians. The office of Librarian is usually given to an Academician : 
 Wilson, Fuseli, and Stothard were librarians.
 
 524 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ROYAL ACADEMY OF Music, 4, Tenterden-street, Hanover-square, has a library of 
 music, practical, for the use of the students. Here is preserved the original deed, 
 dated 1719, signed by several noblemen, subscribers to a Royal Academy of Music, 
 from which was formed the first Italian Opera in England. 
 
 ROYAL INSTITUTE OF AECHITECTS, Conduit-street, Hanover-square : about 2000 
 volumes on Architecture and its attendant sciences; including the Prussian Government's 
 educational works ; that by Lepsius on Egypt ; and large and expensive books of curiosity 
 and reference, such as Piranesi and Canina. The MSS. and original Drawings comprise 
 Stuart's commencement of a Dictionary of Architecture ; Weennick's Lives of Flemish 
 Architects ; and about 2000 drawings of antiquities, modern edifices, and designs by 
 English, French, Italian, and German architects of the seventeenth, eighteenth, and 
 nineteenth centuries. 
 
 ROYAL INSTITUTION, Albemarle-street : about 27,000 volumes, including the 
 curious library of Astle, the antiquary ; topographical, antiquarian, classical, and 
 scientific works ; parliamentary history, &c. 
 
 ROYAL LIBRARY (The) St. James's Palace, was originally founded by Edward VI., 
 who appointed Bartholomew Trahuon, keeper, with a salary of 20Z. : the first books 
 mostly collected by Leland, at the Dissolution; and here were deposited his "Collec- 
 tions," presented by him to King Edward, but subsequently dispersed. James I. 
 ref'ounded the library, and added the collection of the learned Isaac Casaubon. The 
 entire collection was presented to the British Museum, in 1757, by George II.; and 
 to the gift was annexed the privilege, which the Royal Library had acquired in the 
 reign of Queen Anne, of being supplied with a copy of every new publication entered 
 at Stationers' Hall. In St. James's Palace was also the Queen's Library, built by Kent, 
 for Caroline, consort of George II., in the Stable-yard: here were two fine marble 
 busts of George II. and Queen Caroline, by Rysbraeck, both now in Windsor Castle. 
 
 ROYAL SOCIETY, Burlington House : the Library, in the upper floor, is extremely rich 
 in the best editions of scientific treatises, besides rare and valuable theological historical 
 works, which are lent to Fellows of the Society. The catalogue of books, MSS., and 
 letters, 1841, fills two volumes 8vo. ("The collection is very poor in some depart- 
 ments." A. De Morgan.) The Society also possess upwards of 5000 maps, charts, 
 engravings, drawings, &c. The library of Arundel House, presented to the Royal 
 Society by Mr. Henry Howard, 1666-7, forms the nucleus of the present collection, 
 each book being inscribed Ex dono Henrici Howard, Norfoldensis : " it consists of 
 3287 printed books, chiefly first editions, soon after the invention of printing; and 
 Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Turkish, and other rare MSS., 544 volumes." (Maitland.) In 
 1830, the Arundel MSS. (excepting the Hebrew and Oriental) were sold to the British 
 Museum for 3559Z., which was expended in purchasing scientific works for the Royal 
 Society's Library, now exceeding 42,000 volumes. 
 
 Here are Chaucer's Canterburie Tales, fol. 1480 (Caxton) ; Copernicus's History of Astronomy, first 
 edition ; original M S. of the Principia, written by Sir Isaac Newton ; and documents in the Commercium 
 Epistolicum (inventicjn of Fluxions) ; MS. of Aubrey's Natural History of Wiltshire. 
 
 ROYAL SOCIETY OF LITERATURE, 4, St. Martin's-place, Trafalgar-square : a valuable 
 library, greatly enriched by the lexicographical and antiquarian works presented by the 
 Rev. H. J. Todd, editor and enlarger of Johnson's Dictionary ; also papers by the 
 most eminent writers on history, philology, poetry, philosophy, and the arts. The 
 Society's House was built by the leading members upon Crown land granted in 1826 
 by George IV., who contributed 1100 guineas a year. 
 
 It is true that George IV. was committed to this large annual subscription by a misconception of Dr. 
 Burgess, Bishop of Salisbury; the king intending a donation of 1000 guineas, and an annual subscrip- 
 tion of 100 guineas : his Majesty not only cheerfully acquiesced, but amused himself with the incident. 
 
 RUSSELL INSTITUTION, Great Coram-street. This Institution was founded in the 
 year 1808, and amongst its earliest members were Sir Samuel Romilly, Francis Horner, 
 Mason Good, Henry Hallam, and Lord Abinger. The number of volumes exceeds 
 16,000. Here is Haydon's grand heroic picture of " Xenophon and the Ten Thousand."
 
 LIBRARIES. 525 
 
 It was disposed of by lottery for 800 guineas, in 1836, when it was won by John, Duke 
 of Bedford, and presented by him to the Institution. 
 
 SIGN COLLEGE LIBEAEY, London Wall (see p. 279), though founded for the clergy 
 of the City and suburbs of London, is now accessible daily upon the same conditions as 
 the British Museum Library. The Sion collection was increased by the bequest of the 
 library of Dr. William Harris : here are many curious black-letter theological works 
 and scarce tracts of the Puritan times. 
 
 SIB JOHN SOAKE'S MUSEUM : Architecture and the Fine Arts generally, by English, 
 Italian, French, German, and Russian artists and literati; original Drawings and MSS. 
 by Thorpe, Jones, Vanbrugh, Wren, and Chambers; Pennant's London, illustrated 
 with 2000 drawings, prints, &c. (Fauntleroy's); Tasso's MS. Gerusalemme Liber ata; 
 first, second, third, and fourth folio editions of Shakspeare, from J. P. Kemble's library. 
 (See MUSEUMS : Sir John Soane's.) 
 
 SOCIETIES, LITEEAEY AND SCIENTIFIC, in Islington, Marylebone, Soutbwark, and 
 Westminster, contain modern libraries. 
 
 SOCIETY OF AETS, John-street, Adelphi, has a collection of technical works, which 
 is very far from complete, but was intended to contain copies of all special treatises on 
 the arts and manufactures. The most interesting and important part of the library is 
 the MS. correspondence and journal-books. Amongst the rejected communications and 
 condemned inventions are many since the subjects of patents ; and these volumes are 
 the most remarkable registers in the country of the inventions of the last century. 
 The books are lent to the members. 
 
 STATISTICAL SOCIETY, 12, St. James's-square : a large collection of Statistical 
 Returns, imperfectly catalogued. 
 
 TENISON'S LIBEAEY, in Castle-street, St. Martin's-lane, immediately behind the 
 National Gallery, was built by Sir Christopher Wren. It is "a noble structure, 
 extremely well contrived for the placing of the books and lights, and furnished 
 with the best modern books in most faculties : the best of its kind in England." 
 (H. Lemoine, 1790.) The Library, about 4000 volumes, was formed by the Archbishop 
 during the reigns of Kings Charles II., James II., William III., and Queen Anne, and 
 was established by Tenison in 1685, then Rector of St. Martin's parish. It contained 
 all the rare books formerly belonging to Father Le Courayer, canon and chief librarian of 
 St. Genevieve, and author of the celebrated Dissertation on the Validity of the Ordi- 
 nations and tJie Succession of the Bishops of the Church of England. Some years 
 before his death the Canon gave all his rare and valuable books to Archbishop Tenison's 
 Library. The entire collection was dispersed by auction by order of the Charity Com- 
 missioners, in June, 1864, when some of the MSS. were disposed of as follows : 
 
 The Original Note-Book of Francis Bacon, entirely in his autograph and unpublished, full of curious 
 and interesting details illustrative of the personal history of this great reformer of philosophy, 69^. The 
 Holy Bible, translated by Wickliffe, a manuscript of the fourteenth century, upon vellum, comprising 
 a portion of the Old Testament Scriptures, 1501. Venantii Honorii Clementiani Fortunati, Presbyter! 
 Italic!, Versarium et Prosaicae Expositiones Orationis Dominicae et Symboli, a fine manuscript, Saec. X. 
 or XI., 781. Higden's Polychronicon, translated into English by John de Trevisa, being the version 
 used by Caxton, a noble manuscript, wanting a few leaves. It is preceded by two treatises, one 
 entitled, Dialogut inter Militem et Clericum, and the other, The Defence, before the Pope at Some, by 
 Bichard Fitz- Ralph, Archbishop of Armagh, which latter has not been printed, 189Z. Historical Mis- 
 cellanies, containing three pages in the autograph of Francis Bacon, 301. 10. A charming volume, 
 entitled, All the King's Short Poesia that are not Printed, with numerous alterations in the handwritings 
 of King James the First and Prince Charles (afterwards Charles the First), 631. St. Heating's Three 
 Shafts of Death, composed in the year 1631, and History of Ireland, in the Irish character, 201. A 
 chronicle, called Flares Historiarum, by that eminent English historian Matthew of Westminster, a 
 manuscript of the fourteenth century, 631. Missale secundum Usum Sarum, a fine manuscript of the 
 fifteenth century, with musical notes, 701. Prudentii Liber de Pugnd Vitiorum et Virtutum, cum Olossis, 
 a wonderful manuscript of the tenth century, with eighty illustrations of a highly spirited character, 
 executed in outline, and exhibiting great artistic skill in the powerful treatment of the various subjects, 
 2731. Psalterium, cum Precibus, a most beautiful manuscript of the thirteenth century, by an English 
 artist, with many thousand capital letters, various figures, devices and grotesque subjects, executed in 
 gold and colours in the richest manner, 200Z. A curious collection of Theological Treatises in English, 
 one of them being a discourse against miracle plays, the most singular relic of the kind known to exist, 
 and said to be the only mediaeval English treatise on such plays yet discovered, 351. Divers Treatises in 
 English, by Dr. Wickliffe, 371. 10*. 
 
 The Grammar-school, including the Library -rooms, with St. Martin's Workhouse,
 
 526 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 have been purchased of the parish of St. Martin's for 86,OOOZ. ; the site being required 
 for the enlargement of the National Gallery. 
 
 TOWER OP LONDON. At the commencement of the last century, according to 
 Bagford and Oldys, the Kecords in the Wakefield Tower were very curious, and were 
 then " modeled and digested, and reposited in cases." In the White Tower were a 
 vast number of records relating to monasteries, &c., several letters of kings, princes, 
 dukes, &c., from several parts of the world, as Tartary, Barbary, Spain, France, Italy, 
 &c., to our kings in England. (See RECOBDS, PUBLIC.) 
 
 UNITED SERVICE INSTITUTION, Middle Scotland-yard, Whitehall: an admirable 
 library of reference (10,000 volumes), especially valuable in its practical utility to 
 soldiers ; pamphlets on the services ; engineering papers : rich in old Italian military 
 literature; a French plan of fortification in MS., corrected in the handwriting of 
 Vauban. 
 
 UNIVERSITY COII/EGE, Gower-street : about 43,000 volumes, and 8000 pamphlets, 
 general, legal, and medical ; including the Chinese library, 10,000 volumes, left by Dr. 
 Morrison ; the Ricardo library (political economy), left by David Ricardo ; and a large 
 collection bequeathed by Dr. Holmes of Manchester. The marble statue of Locke in 
 the principal library, is by Sir Richard Westmacott, R.A. (See p. 280.) 
 
 WESTMINSTER ABBEY : (Chapter House). The Chapter House was once the monks' 
 *' parlour," or " parleying" place, but made a public library by Lord Keeper Williams, 
 whilst Dean of Westminster. The books were burnt in 1664, and but one MS. saved 
 out of 320 : they are catalogued in the Harleian MSS. Chamberlayne (1726) de- 
 scribes " a fair publick library, free for all strangers in term time :" about 11,000 
 volumes. Among the treasures here are collections of music and classics and early 
 Bibles; an early vellum book, printed at Oxford, 1482 ; ceremonials of consecrations ; 
 an Editio Princeps of Plato; St. Ambrose on vellum; the Pupilla Oculi, and 
 Litlington's Missal, 1362. 
 
 Domesday Book, Rymer's Fcedera, and other ancient records, kept here, have 
 been transferred to the Rolls Office, Chancery-lane. The Chapter House formerly con- 
 tained the most valuable muniments, of which, in 1807, an inventory was made ; three 
 copies only were taken ; one, with coloured drawings of the building, is in the British 
 Museum. Addit. MS. 8977. The Parliament Rolls were, at the above date, in an old 
 stone tower, in the Old Palace Yard, Westminster ; and the Papers of State from the 
 beginning of Henry VIII. were kept in Holbein's Cockpit Gate. 
 
 In the room called the Museum, at Westminster School, is a collection of books 
 given by Dr. Busby for the use of the scholars. 
 
 Wn/LiAMS's LIBEAET, "the Dissenters' Library," Redcross-street, Cripplegate: 
 20,000 volumes, collected by the Rev. Dr. Daniel Williams, the Nonconformist, and Dr. 
 Bates; and bequeathed by the former, with provisions for a building; opened 1729. 
 This library has been increased by gifts, and by a small income from estates left by Dr. 
 Williams : it is rich in controversial divinity, is open to the public by a trustee's order, 
 and books are allowed to be taken out. Here are some manuscripts of the early 
 history of the Reformation. Dr. Williams purchased most of the books of the heirs of 
 one Baker, of Highgate : by negligence many of the MSS. were burnt, including the 
 pompous and rare book of the Rules and Ceremonies of the Coronation of the Kings of 
 England. (H. Lemoine, 1790.) Also, The Salisbury Liturgy, finely illuminated ; The 
 Hours of the Virgin, Paris, 1498 ; Illuminated Bible ; miniature copy of the Head of 
 Christ, from a painting in the Vatican ; the glass baptismal basin of Queen Elizabeth. 
 Here was a very interesting collection of portraits of Dissenting Ministers. 
 
 Before the system of the registration of births, marriages, and deaths had been 
 established at Somerset House, three denominations of Protestant dissenters, forming a 
 congregation within twelve miles of London, established a registry of births here, which 
 was continued from 1742 to 1837, when these records were placed in the care of the 
 Registrar-General. In these books are entered nearly 50,000 births, attested by 
 witnesses. The library buildings were taken down in 1864, for the extension of the 
 Metropolitan Railway ; and the collection has been removed to Lincoln's-inn-fields.
 
 LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS. 527 
 
 ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY, 11, Hanover-square : Transactions of learned societies, and 
 scientific zoological works of modern date. 
 
 CIECULATING LIBEAEIES date from 1740, when one Wright, at No. 132, Strand, 
 established the first. Dr. Franklin writes in 1725, lodging in Little Britain : " Cir- 
 culating libraries were not then in use." Among Wright's earliest rivals were the 
 Nobles, in Holborn and St. Martin's-court ; Samuel Bathoe, Strand; and Thomas 
 Lowndes, Fleet-street. Another early Circulating Library was in Crane-court, Fleet- 
 street, where the Society of Arts met in 1754 and 1755. In 1770 there were but four 
 Circulating Libraries in the metropolis. 
 
 FEEE LIBEAEIES : the first established in Marylebone, 1853. 
 
 MTTDIE'S SELECT LIBEAET, New Oxford-street, has about 120,000 volumes actually 
 in circulation, in addition to a reserve of nearly a million volumes. Rather more than 
 half of these are works of History, Biography, Religion, Philosophy, and Travels ; the 
 rest being works of Fiction, chiefly of the higher and standard class. The Library 
 was formed into a Company, in 1864, under Mr. Mudie's superintendence, and with 
 increasing success ; number of subscribers, nearly 20,000. The books are kept in a large 
 and handsome Hall, decorated with Ionic columns ; light iron galleries give access to 
 the upper shelves, and an iron staircase descends to vaults, filled with solid stacks of 
 books ; and light trucks circulate laden with books. More than 1000 exchanges are 
 usually effected in one day. Of the more popular works thousands of copies are 
 provided : of Livingstone's Travels in Africa, 3250 copies were in circulation at one 
 time ; of Essays and Revieivs, 2000 copies j and of the Quarterly Review, in which 
 the Essays were answered, 1000 copies ; M'Clintock's Voyage in Search of Franklin, 
 3000 volumes ; of some novels, 3000. The books are distributed throughout the three 
 Kingdoms to private individuals, country book-clubs, and literary societies. The sys- 
 tem was commenced by Mr. Mudie in 1842, with the object of providing a supply of 
 works of a higher class than were usually to be found in circulating libraries. This 
 is altogether a liberal enterprise, the benefits of which have been rightly appreciated 
 by the reading public. 
 
 LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS. 
 
 THIS fine square west of Lincoln's Inn dates from 1618, when "the grounds were 
 much planted round with dwellings and lodgings of noblemen and gentlemen of 
 quality, but at the same time were deformed by cottages and mean buildings en- 
 croachments on the fields, and nuisances to the neighbourhood." To reform these 
 grievances, a commission was appointed by the Crown " to plant and reduce to unifor- 
 mity Lincoln's Inn Fields, as it shall be drawn by way of map or ground-plot by Inigo 
 Jones." A view, painted in oil, of Inigo's plan is preserved at Wilton House : it is 
 taken from the south, and the principal feature is Lindsey House, on the centre of the 
 west side (see p. 448). It still remains, but has lost the handsome vases which 
 originally surmounted the open balustrade at the top. (Life of Inigo Jones, by Peter 
 Cunningham. Shakspeare Society, 1848.) 
 
 The proportions of the square were long stated to be those of the Great Pyramid of 
 Egypt ; which, says Walpole, " would have been admired in those ages when the keep 
 of Kenilworth Castle was erected in the form of a horse-fetter, and the Escurial in the 
 shape of St. Lawrence's gridiron." But the fact is otherwise ; the base of the Great 
 Pyramid measures 764 feet on each side, whereas Lincoln's-inn-fields, although 821 
 feet on one side, is only 625 feet 6 inches on the other, and the area of the Pyramid 
 is greater by many thousand square feet. (Colonel Howard Vyse, On the Pyramids.) 
 The west side only was completed by Inigo Jones. 
 
 Lincoln's Inn Fields have been used as a place of execution. Here, September 20 
 and 21, 1586, Babington and his accomplices were "hanged, bowelled, and quartered, 
 on a stage or scaffold of timber strongly made for that purpose, even in the place where 
 they used to meet and to conferre of their traitorous purposes." And here in the 
 middle of the square, July 21, 1683, was beheaded the patriotic William Lord 
 Russell.
 
 523 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Burnet thus describes the sad scene : " Tillotson and I went with him in the coach to the place of 
 execution. Some of the crowd that filled the streets wept, while others insulted. He was singing 
 psalms a great part of the way, and said he hoped to sing better soon. As he observed the great crowd 
 of people all the way, he said to us, ' I hope I shall quickly see a much better assembly.' When he 
 came to the scaffold, he walked about it four or five times. Then he turned to the sheriffs and delivered 
 his paper. ... He prayed by himself, then Tillotson prayed with him. After that he prayed again by 
 himself, and then undressed himself, and laid his head on the block without the least change of coun- 
 tenance, and it was cut off at two strokes." 
 
 The Fields were long the resort of troops of idle and vicious vagrants : such were 
 " Lincoln's-inn-fields Mumpers;" and "Scarecrow, the beggar in Lincoln's-inn-fields, 
 who disabled himself in his right leg, and asks alms all day, to get himself a warm 
 supper and a trull at night." (Spectator, No. 6.) Boys gambled for farthings and 
 oranges ; and a favourite game here was " the Wheel of Fortune," played with a move- 
 able hand pointing to a circle of figures, such as we remember in Moorfields, the 
 prizes being gingerbread-nuts the size of farthings. Gay, in his Trivia, cautions the 
 pedestrian : 
 
 " Where Lincoln Inn's wide space is rail'd around, 
 
 Cross not with vent'rous step ; there oft is found 
 
 The lurking thief, who, while the daylight shone, 
 
 Made the walls echo with his begging tone : 
 
 That wretch, which late compassion moved, shall wound 
 
 Thy bleeding head, and fell thee to the ground." 
 
 Lincoln's-inn-fields Hufflerg were wretches who assumed the characters of maimed soldiers, and 
 begged from the claims of Naseby, Edgehill, Newbury, and Marston Moor; their prey was people of 
 fashion, whose coaches they attacked, and if refused relief, they told their owners, "'Tis a sad thing 
 that an old crippled cavalier should be suffered to beg for a maintenance, and a young cavalier, that 
 never heard the whistle of a bullet, should ride in his coach." 
 
 The Fields were inclosed with iron railing after 1735, in consequence of Sir Joseph 
 Jekyll, then Master of the Rolls, being ridden over; "before which time the 
 Square was a receptacle for rude fellows to air horses, and many robberies were 
 committed in it." (Gentleman's Magazine, August, 1773.) But Ireland states that 
 Jekyll was attacked and thrown down by the mob, in consequence of his aid in the 
 passing of the Act of Parliament to raise the price of gin. In the Fields was often 
 set up, until its final abolition, the Pillory, handy for the rabble of Clare Market. At 
 the north-west angle of the inclosure is a picturesque Gothic drinking fountain. On 
 the north side are Sir John Soane's Museum and the Inns of Court Hotel ; south, the 
 College of Surgeons (see p. 279); east, Lincoln's-inn New Hall (see p. 466); west, 
 through Inigo Jones's archway, in Duke-street, is the Sardinian Roman Catholic Chapel 
 (see p. 232) ; opposite which, over an Italian warehouse, lodged Dr. Franklin, wheii a 
 compositor in Watts's printing office. 
 
 At No. 12, Duke-street, in 1845, was completed by Mr. Smith, a magnificent Silver Fountain, of 
 extraordinary magnitude and exquisite workmanship, as a present from the East India Company to 
 Mohammed AH, Pasha of Egypt. This fountain is upwards of ten feet in height, and contains 10,000 
 ounces (7J cwt.) of silver. It consists of a massive and enriched pedestal, whence springs a shaft, sup- 
 porting a tier of three basins ; and at each angle of the pedestal are a large vase of flowers, and groups 
 of fruit at the base. The likeness of beast, bird, or fish is scrupulously avoided throughout the orna- 
 ments, in deference to Mahomedan scruples. The style of ornament is that of Louis Quatorze; and the 
 base bears an inscription in English, Turkish, Arabic, and Latin. This fountain cost 7000Z. ; it occu- 
 pied more than seven months in the actual manufacture; and is, we believe, the largest silver work ever 
 executed in England. 
 
 Great and Little Turnstile are named from the turning stiles which, two centuries 
 since, stood at their ends next Lincoln's-inn-fields, to prevent the straying of cattle 
 therefrom ; and Gate-street, north-west, has a similar origin. Sir Edwin Sandys's 
 curious Europce Speculum, 4to, 1637, was " sold by George Hutton, at the Turning 
 Stile in Holborne." The English translation of Bishop Peter Camus's Admirable 
 Events, 4to, 1639, was also " sold in Holborne, in Turnstile Lane." In 1685 was 
 built New Turnstile. 
 
 Turnstile-alley, leading to Holborn, was first designed as a change for selling Welsh 
 friezes, flannels, &c. Here Cartwright, the bookseller, kept shop : he was an excellent 
 player, and bequeathed his plays and pictures to Dulwich College. 
 
 On the north side of the Fields is Whetstone's Park, a row of tenements named 
 after William Whetstone, a vestryman of the parish of St. Giles's-in-the-Fields in the 
 time of Charles I. and the Protectorate. It was long a place of ill repute, and was 
 attacked by the London apprentices in 1682. Since 1708, however, it has chiefly 
 consisted of stables. (Hatton's London, p. 88.)
 
 LITERARY FUND (THE ROYAL). 529 
 
 " And makes a brothel of a palace, 
 Where harlots ply, as many tell us, 
 Like brimstones in a Whetstone alehouse." Sutler. 
 
 The vile place and its loose characters also occur in the plays of Shadwell and 
 Dryden, and in Ned Ward's London Spy. 
 
 The concentration of the Law Courts in Lincoln's Inn Fields was once proposed ; and in 1841 Mr. 
 Barry designed a large building, of Grecian character, containing a Great Hall (nearly equal to the area 
 of Westminster Hall), surrounded by 12 courts; the whole occupying one-third of the area within the 
 rails, to be belted with plantations. Funds were wanting, and the blocking up of the open space was 
 objected to : persons had considered this area as their " country walk," and that " they had been in tin 
 country when they had been round Lincoln's Inn Fields." (Evidence before Parliament.) 
 
 LITERARY FUND (THE ROYAL), 
 
 A DMINISTERS assistance to authors of published works of approved literary 
 -*- merit, and to authors of important contributions to periodical literature who may 
 be in distressed circumstances; such assistance being extended, at the death of an 
 author, to his widow and children. Of this institution it has been well said : 
 
 "With equal promptitude and delicacy, its committee are ever ready to administer to the necessi- 
 ties of the unfortunate scholar, who can satisfy them that his misery is not the just punishment of 
 immoral habits. Some of the brightest names in contemporary literature have been beholden to the 
 bounty of this Institution, and in numerous instances its interference has shielded friendless merit from 
 utter ruin." Quarterly Review. 
 
 The Society was established by subscription, in 1790, by Mr. David Williams, who 
 has detailed its objects in a work entitled The Claims of Literature. It was first pro- 
 posed by Williams in 1773, to a club which met at the Prince of Wales 's Tavern, 
 Conduit- street, Hanover-square; Dr. Franklin presided, but discouraged Williams by 
 observing, " the event will require so much time, perseverance, and patience, that the 
 anvil may wear out the hammer." The first anniversary dinner was held in 1793 : in 
 1794 an ode was recited ; and this practice was continued until 1830. Among the 
 writers of these odes were Captain Morris, Mr. Fitzgerald, Mr. Disraeli, Mr. George 
 Dyer, Mr. Boscawen, the Rev. Henry Kett, the Rev. Dr. Charles Symmons, the Rev. 
 George Crabbe, the Rev. Thomas Maurice, Mr. Henry Neele, and Mr. Allan Cunning- 
 ham. The first patron of the Fund, the Prince Regent, contributed 5455Z. ; the 
 Dukes of Kent, Sussex, York, and Cambridge presided at its dinners; Prince Albert 
 presided in 184-2, and the Prince of Wales in 1864. In the Society's armorial bear- 
 ings are the imperial crown and the Prince of Wales's plume. The first house of the 
 Fund was 36, Gerard-street, Soho, where Williams died in 1816 : he was buried in 
 St. Anne's Church, and his gravestone bears, " DAVID WILLIAMS, ESQ., AGED SEVENTY- 
 EIGHT TEAKS, FOUNDER OF THE LITERARY FUND." Yet Canning, in political spite, 
 once classed Williams amongst " creeping creatures, venomous and low !" The Fund 
 wasincorporated 1818: the average annual number of authors relieved during the 
 last ten years has been 52, classified under the heads of History and Biography; 
 Science and Art ; Periodical Literature ; Topography and Travels ; Classical Literature 
 and Education ; Poetry ; Essays and Tales ; Drama ; Law ; Medicine ; and Miscel- 
 laneous. The average amount of the annual grants during the last ten years has been 
 1577J. The Reserve Fund at the end of 1866 was 26,0001. The stock of the pro- 
 perty bequeathed to the Fund by Mr. Thomas Newton, who believed himself to be the 
 last descendant of Sir Isaac Newton, amounts to 8167Z. 15s. Wd. ; and the Newton 
 estate at Whitechapel produces at present 2031. a year in rents. The present Cham- 
 bers of the Fund are at No. 4, Adelphi-terrace, described at page 1. (See also 
 LlBEARIES, p. 521.) 
 
 LITTLE BRITAIN, 
 
 \ NCIENTLY Bretagne or Britain-street, west of Aldersgate-street, is named from 
 JLJL the Duke of Bretagne, who had here his magnificent town-mansion. 
 
 Little Britain was as remarkable for its booksellers through the reigns of Charles I. 
 and II., James II., and William and Mary, as Paternoster-row is at present. This 
 location of booksellers may have been influenced by John Day, the eminent printer, 
 living over Aldersgate; and from Grub-street being the abode of authors. (See GRUB- 
 BTEEET, pp. 383-385.) " Bartholomew-close printers" are also mentioned by Dryden. 
 
 M M
 
 530 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Roger North, in his Life of the Hon. and Rev. Dr. John North, speaking of the booksellers in the 
 reign of Charles II., says : " Little Britain was a plentiful and perpetual emporium of learned authors, 
 and men went thither as to a market. This drew to the place a mighty trade, the rather because the 
 shops were spacious and the learned gladly resorted to them, where they seldom failed to meet with 
 agreeable conversation ; and the booksellers themselves were knowing and conversible men, with whom, 
 for the sake of bookish knowledge, the greatest wits were pleased to converse ; and we may judge the 
 time as well spent there as (in latter days) either in tavern or coffee-house. But now this emporium 
 has vanished, and the trade contracted into the hands of two or three persons." 
 
 Kobert Scott appears to have been a principal dealer in Little Britain. A news- 
 paper of 1644 states 460 pamphlets to have been published here in four years. 
 Richard Chiswell, of Little Britain, buried in St. Botolph's Church, Aldersgate, in 
 1711, is described as " the metropolitan bookseller of England." At the Dolphin, in 
 Little Britain, lived Samuel Buckley, publisher of the Spectator, commenced March 1, 
 1711. In 1725, Benjamin Franklin, when working at Palmer's printing-office in 
 Bartholomew-close, lodged in Little Britain, next door to Wilcox the bookseller, who 
 lent Franklin books " for a reasonable retribution." 
 
 Milton, after he had left Jewin-street, lodged for a time in Little Britain with Millington, the book- 
 auctioneer, who was accustomed to lead his venerable inmate by the hand when he walked in the 
 street, as mentioned by Richardson, on the testimony of the acquaintance of Milton. (Symmons's Life 
 of Milton, 2nd edition, p. 501.) Richardson also relates, that, in Little Britain, the Earl of Dorset, when 
 heating about for books to his taste, "met with Paradise Lost, and was so struck with some of its 
 passages that he bought it, the bookseller begging him to speak in its favour if he liked it, for that they 
 (the copies in his shop, not the impression, as Malone states) lay on his hands as waste-paper. The 
 Earl read the poem, and sent it to Dryden, who returned it with the memorable opinion : ' This man cuts 
 us all out, and the ancients too.* " 
 
 " The race of booksellers in Little Britain is now almost extinct ; honest Ballard, 
 well known for his curious divinity catalogues, being their only genuine representative " 
 {Gentleman's Magazine, No. 1, 1731). He died Jan. 2, 1796, aged 88, in the house 
 wherein he was born. 
 
 Duke-street, formerly Duck-lane, leading into Smithfield, was once celebrated for 
 refuse book -shops : 
 
 "And so may'st thou, perchance, pass up and down, 
 And please awhile th' admiring court and town, 
 Who after all shall in Duck-lane shops be thrown." 
 
 Oldham's Satires, circa 1680. 
 
 Washington Irving describes the locality as " a cluster of narrow streets and courts 
 of very venerable and debilitated houses, several ready to tumble down, the fronts of 
 which are magnificently enriched with old oaken carvings of hideous faces, unknown birds, 
 beasts, and fishes, and fruits and flowers, which it would perplex a naturalist to 
 classify " (Sketch-book). Most of this grotesque ornamentation has, however, long 
 disappeared. 
 
 LOMBARD STREET, 
 
 " A CERTAIN street of the greatest credit in Europe," (Addison,) is proved by 
 -*- Stow to have borne that name before the reign of Edward II. ; and is so called 
 of the Longobards, the first of whom were the Caursini family, a rich race of bankers 
 who settled here, and their countrymen soon grouped around them. They were also 
 the goldsmiths, who took pledges in plate, jewels, &c. ; and the badge of the Lom- 
 bards (the three golden pills of the Medici family) has descended as the sign of the 
 pawnbrokers.* The black-letter ballad in the Pepys collection makes the husband of 
 Jane Shore a goldsmith here : 
 
 " In Lombard-street I once did dwelle, 
 As London yet can witnesse welle ; 
 Where many gallants did beholde 
 My beauty in a shop of golde. 
 * * * * 
 
 I penance did in Lombard-streete 
 In shameful manner in a sheete." 
 
 In the parish of St. Edmund, in Lombard-street, was the hostel of Isabella, Queen 
 of Edward the Second, whom, with the Prince of Wales, the Queen entertained here, 
 October 26, 1357. The rent of her house, which belonged to the prioress of St. Helen's, 
 was twenty -five shillings and twopence half-yearly. Arch&ologia, vol. xxxv. 
 pp. 453-469. 
 
 * The sign is also traceable to the three pieces of gold, which are the emblem of the charitable 
 St. Nicholas. (See Mrs. Jameson's Sacred and Legendary . 
 
 ary Art.)
 
 LOMBARD STREET. 531 
 
 Here the merchants assembled twice daily in all weathers. In 1537, Sir Richard 
 Gresham proposed to Cromwell (then Lord Privy Seal) " to make a goodely Bursse in 
 Lombert-strette, for marchannts to repayer unto." Hence originated the Exchange 
 built by Sir Richard's son, Sir Thomas Gresham, who was then living in Lombard- 
 street, described by Hentzner as the handsomest street in London. 
 
 Here, like other bankers, Gresham kept a shop on the site of the banking-house 
 (No. 68) of Martin, Stone, and Martins, who in Pennant's time possessed the large gilt 
 grasshopper (Gresham's crest) which was placed over his door as a sign. It existed 
 entire until 1795, when the present house was built, and the sign disappeared. 
 
 Hentzner, in 1593, saw in Lombard-street " all sorts of gold and silver vessels exposed to sale, as well 
 as ancient and modern coins, in such quantities as must surprise a man the first time he sees and con- 
 siders them." At Gresham's death, much of his wealth consisted of gold chains. Lombard-street has 
 retained its character as well as its name for at least five centuries and a half; and within the last thirty 
 years several gold and silver lacemen lived there. Burgon's Life and Times of Sir Thomas Chresham, 
 vol. i. p. 281 : 1839. 
 
 The Pope's merchants also chaffered here for their wafer-cakes and "pardons. Sir 
 Simon Eye built here a large tavern, The Cardinal's Sat ; and Pope's Head Alley, 
 leading from 7x>rnbard- street to Cornhill, is named from The Pope's Head Tavern, which 
 existed in 1464 : it had a finely painted room in Pepys's time. The Alley was once 
 famous for its print-sellers, for toys, turnery, and cutlery ; and stalls of fine fruit. 
 
 It was long believed that the poet Pope was born in Plough-court, Lombard-street, May 22, 1688, 
 "at the house which is now Mr. Morgan's, an apothecary" (Spence's Anecdotes); a name long since for- 
 gotten, although J. T. Smith took much pains to discover it. It was added that Pope's father was a 
 Iinendraper. But, in 1857, it was ascertained from a London Directory, in the Manchester Free Library, 
 1677, that Alexander Pope, the poet's father, was then living in Broad-street, and was a merchant, not 
 a Iinendraper. Mr. Hotten, of Piccadilly, was the first to discover the above, as well as a broadside, 
 which shows that the poet's family were living in Broad-street three years later than the appearance of 
 the 2>irectory. At what date Pope's father retired is not clearly ascertained, but all accounts agree that 
 Pope was born in 1688, in the City of London. Looking to the facts, therefore, that the father appears 
 tc have been firmly established in Broad-street as a merchant, and that the tradition of Plough-court, 
 Lombard-street, is extremely vague, may we not assume it as most probable that Pope was born in 
 Broad-street, in the parish of St. Bennet Fink? In the Athenaeum, May 30, 1857, we find: 
 " 1679, 12 August, Buried, Magdalen, the wife of Alexander Pope. Here, then, we have for the first 
 time evidence that the elder Pope resided in Broad-street in 1677-79, and there died and was buried in 
 1679, Magdalen, wife of Alexander Pope the elder. There can be no doubt that this Magdalen Pope was 
 the wife of the poet's father, and the mother of Magdalen Eackett, who, on the evidence of the poet 
 himself, was the daughter of Pope's father by a first wife ; and thus the question of relationship between 
 Mrs. Rackett and Pope will be decided after a century of discussion, and against the recorded judgment 
 of his biographers." 
 
 In Abchurch-lane, named from the parish of St. Mary Abchurch, or Upchurch, as 
 Stow says he had seen it written, lived Mr. John Moore, author of the celebrated 
 worm-powder : 
 
 " learned friend of Abchurch-lane, 
 
 Who sett'st our entrails free ! 
 Vain is thy art, thy powder vain, 
 Since worms shall eat e'en thee." Pope. 
 
 Lombard-street had also its booksellers. The imprint to Howel's Familiar Letters, 
 5th edition, is: "London, printed for Thomas Guy, at the Corner-shop of Little 
 Lombard-street and Cornhill, near Wool-church, Market, 1 678." And 1696, Sept. 17, 
 Lloyd's News was first " printed for Edward Lloyd (Coffee-man) in Lombard-street." 
 Towards Birchin (anciently Birchover's) lane stood the house of William de la Pole, 
 created in France, by Edward III., Knight Banneret; he was King's Merchant, and 
 from him sprang a numerous race of nobility. 
 
 In George-yard was the George hostel, the London lodging of Earl Ferrers, whose 
 brother in 1175, was slain here in the night, and thrown into the dirty street, which 
 foul deed led to the setting of the night watches. 
 
 Lombard-street highway passes over the site of Roman houses, and has been the field of three great 
 finds of Roman remains, in 1730, 1774, and 1785-6; the latter, in its stratum of wood ashes, supposed 
 to indicate the burning of London by Boadicea. Ten feet below the street-level was found a wall of the 
 smaller-sized Roman bricks, pierced by flues or chimneys ; likewise tile and brick pavements ; in Birchin- 
 lane, a tesselated pavement of elegant design, heaps of Roman coins, glass bottles, keys, and beads ; 
 vessels and fragments of earthenware ; and a large vessel of red Samian ware, richly embellished, and 
 reminding us that " Rome did not want its Wedgwood." The causeway, which Wren considered the 
 northern boundary of the Roman station, was then also discovered in Birchin-lane. 
 
 By the London Directory, 1677, above quoted, of the forty-four names or firms of 
 
 H M 2
 
 532 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 " goldsmiths who kept running cashes " in London " twenty-seven were (then) located 
 hi Lombard street." Sir Martin Bowes, the wealthy goldsmith, lived upon the site of 
 No. 67, now Glyn's banking-house, which Sir Martin bequeathed to the Goldsmiths' 
 Company, of which he was a distinguished member. 
 
 The banking-house of Messrs. Barclay and Co., No. 54, on the north side of Lombard- 
 street, originally extended backwards to George-court, and is supposed to have been 
 derived from the gift of Richard Mervayle to the Vintners' Company in 1437, who 
 leased the premises for seventy years, from Michaelmas, 1778, at the yearly rent of 
 751. (Herbert's History of the Twelve Great Livery Companies, vol. ii. p. 629.) 
 The staff of Barclay's firm originally consisted of three clerks ; and we are told that, 
 on the third clerk coming to the office for the first time, he was thus dressed : 
 
 He wore a long 1 , flapped coat, with large pockets. The sleeves had long cuffs, with three large 
 buttons, something 1 like the coats worn by the Greenwich pensioners of the present day ; an embroidered 
 waistcoat, reaching nearly down to his knees, with an enormous bouquet in the button-hole : a cocked 
 hat ; powdered hair, with pigtail and bagwig ; and gold-headed cane, similar to those of the present day 
 carried by footmen of ladies of rank. See Seminiscences, by Morris Charles Jones. Privately printed. 
 Welshpool, 1864. 
 
 The banking-house was rebuilt in 1864, P. C. Hardwick, architect : it has four 
 storeys, reaching 60 feet in height, and 85 feet in width. Lombard-street as the centre 
 of "the banking world." has realized large sums for building sites, of which the 
 following are remarkable quotations : 
 
 The banking premises of Heywood, Kennard, and Co., in Lombard-street, were purchased by the 
 Mercantile and Exchange Bank for 20,0001. ; the directors of which let the first floor of the house to the 
 Asiatic Banking Corporation for 1000Z. a year. The amalgamation of the London Bank of Scotland 
 with the Mercantile and Exchange Bank, having: made it necessary to value the premises in Lombard- 
 street, the Directors of the Bank of Scotland paid 10,OOOZ. to the shareholders in the Mercantile and 
 Exchange Bank, as their proportion of the increased value of the premises, which are now estimated as 
 worth 40,0001. ! The value was thus doubled within the year. 
 
 Again, a piece of ground at the corner of Lombard-street, formerly the site of Messrs. Spooncr and 
 Co.'s banking-house, was let to the Agra and Masterman's Bank for ninety-nine years, at 6600/. a year. 
 Owing to a change in the arrangements of that bank, it was next sold to the City Offices Company at a 
 premium of 70.000Z., and a building is now to be erected upon it, at a cost of upwards of 70.000J., the 
 gross rental of which is estimated at 22,0001., the London and County Bank paying 12,OOOZ. for the 
 ground floor and basement. 
 
 One of the best edifices in Lombard-street is the bank of Robarts, Lubbock, and Co. 
 The basement is suited to the idea of a bank ; it makes no use of columns, but is the 
 most decorated feature of the design ; P. C. Hardwick, architect. Here is one of Sir 
 Robert Taylor's best works, the Pelican Fire Office, with its elegant Doric and rusticated 
 basement, carrying the emblematic group designed by Lady Diana Beauclerk, executed 
 by Coade, at Lambeth, but now coated with paint. In the London and County Bank, 
 the whole of the Portland stone used was that of old Westminster Bridge. 
 
 The General Post- Office was removed to Lombard-street early in the last century 
 (see p. 394), and the Chief Office to St. Martin's le-Grand in 1829. 
 
 Here are the churches of Allhallows (see p. 146); St. Edmund (p. 161); and St. 
 Mary Woolnoth (p. 188.) 
 
 LONDON INSTITUTION, THE, 
 
 FINSBURY CIRCUS, was established by a proprietary, 1805, "for the advancement 
 of literature and the diffusion of useful knowledge :" upon its first committee were 
 Mr. Angerstein and Mr. Richard Sharp (" Conversation Sharp "). The Institution was 
 temporarily located at 8, Old Jewry (the fine brick mansion of Sir Robert Clayton, 
 temp. Charles II.), and opened with a library of 10,000 volumes ; incorporated in 1807 : 
 the sun in splendour, a terrestrial globe, open book, and air-pump, among the armorial 
 ensigns of the common seal, characterizing the objects of the Institution. In 1812 it 
 was removed to King's Arms-yard, Coleman-street ; and thence, in 1819, to the pre- 
 sent mansion, built on the north side of Moorfields ; it is a very characteristic design 
 . (Brooks, architect ; the father of Mr. Shirley Brooks, the popular litterateur) ; the first 
 stone laid November 4, 1815, by the Lord Mayor, Birch : the fagade is of Portland 
 stone, and has a Corinthian portico, modified from the temple of Vesta at Tivoli ; cost 
 of the building, 31,124^. The library is 97 by 42 feet, and 28 in height, and has a 
 gallery throughout the collection of books is " one of the most useful and accessible in
 
 LONDON STONE. 533 
 
 Britain " (see LIBRARIES, p. 522). In the rear of the mansion is the Lecture-room, 
 or Theatre, for 700 auditors; and adjoining are the Apparatus-room and Laboratory; 
 the latter designed by W. H. Pepys, F.R.S., and engraved in Parkes's Chemical 
 Catechism, 13th edition, 1834. The apparatus in pneumatics, hydrostatics, electricity 
 and magnetism, is very perfect ; but the great battery of 2000 double plates, and an- 
 other with a pair of plates 200 feet square, with which Sir Humphry Davy experi- 
 mented, have long been destroyed. 
 
 LONDON STONE, 
 
 /CANNON STREET, is a fragment of the milliarium (mile-stone) of the Romans, 
 V-J " a pillar set up by them in the centre of the forum of Agricola's station, the 
 gnoma or umbilicus castri Londinensis." (A. J. Kempe, F.S.A.) Stow describes it 
 on the south side of the street, near the channel of Walbrook, " pitched upright, a 
 great stone, called London Stone, fixed in the ground very deep, fastened with bars of 
 iron, and so strongly set, that if carts do run against it through negligence, the wheels 
 be broken, and the stone itself be unshaken." There is evidence to the belief that it 
 was placed here a thousand years ago ; and Camden considers it to have been the great 
 central mile-stone, from which the British high-roads radiated, and the distances on 
 them were reckoned, similar to that in the Forum at Rome.* 
 
 The traditional history of the stone is as follows : It was the altar of the Temple 
 of Diana, on which the old British kings took their oaths on their accession, laying 
 their hands on it. Until they had done so, they were only kings presumptive. The 
 tradition of the usage survived as late, at least, as Jack Cade's time ; for it is not be- 
 fore he rushes forth and strikes the stone, that he thinks himself entitled to exclaim 
 
 "Now is Mortimer lord of this city !" 
 
 Tradition also declares that the stone was brought from Troy by Brutus, and laid by 
 his own hand as the altar-stone of the Diana Temple, the foundation-stone of London, 
 and its palladium 
 
 " Tra maen Prydain 
 
 Tra lied Llyndain " 
 (" So long as the stone of Brutus is safe, so long will London flourish,") 
 
 which infers also, it is to be supposed, that if it disappears, London will wane. It has 
 been, from the earliest ages, jealously guarded and imbedded, perhaps from a super- 
 stitious belief in the identity of the fate of London with its palladium. Notes and 
 Queries, 3rd S., No. 1. 
 
 London Stone is referred to as a local mark of immemorial antiquity in Saxon 
 charters. Stow found it mentioned as a landmark in a list of rents belonging to 
 Christ's Church, in Canterbury, at the end of " a fair-written gospel-book," given to 
 that foundation by the West-Saxon King Athelstane, who reigned from 925 to 941. 
 Of later time we read, that in the year 1135, the 1st of King Stephen, a fire, which began 
 in the house of one Ailward, near unto London Stone, consumed all east to Aldgate. 
 Henry Fitz-Alwyn, " the draper of London Stone," was the first Mayor of London, 
 1189. Lydgate, about 1430, sings : 
 
 " Then I went forth by London Stone 
 Throughout all Canwick Street." London Lackpenny. 
 
 Holinshed mentions the striking of the Stone in describing the insurrection of 
 Jack Cade ; and Shakspeare has introduced this dramatic incident in the Second Part 
 of Henry VI. act iv. sc. 6. In Pasquill and Marforius, 1589, we read : " Set up this 
 bill at London Stone. Let it be doone solemnly, with drom and trumpet ; and looke 
 you advance my cullour on the top of the steeple right over against it." Also, " if it 
 please them these dark winter nights, to sticke uppe their papers uppon London 
 Stone." Here it is presumed to have been customary to affix official papers. Dryden 
 (The Cock and the Fox,) has : 
 
 " Jack Straw at London Stone with all his rout 
 Struck not the city with so loud a shout." 
 
 * A likestone, of the time of Hadrian (2nd century), was found on the side of the Roman Foss-way 
 near Leicester, in 1771 ; and is preserved in the Museum of the Leicester Literary and Philosophical 
 Society.
 
 534 CUEIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Watling-street, of which Cannon-street is a continuation, is supposed to Lave been 
 the principal street of Roman London ; but it may have been a British road before the 
 arrival of the Romans, to which earlier period Strype refers London Stone. After the 
 Great Fire of 1666, the ground in Cannon-street was much disturbed, and the " large 
 foundations " of London Stone led Wren to consider this to have been some more con- 
 siderable monument than even the Roman milliarium ; for adjoining " were discovered 
 some tessellated pavements, and other extensive remains of Roman workmanship and 
 buildings. Probably this might in some degree have imitated the Milliarium Aureum 
 at Constantinople, which was not in the form of a pillar, as at Rome, but an eminent 
 building," containing many statues. The Stone, before the Great Fire, was " much 
 worn away, and as it were but a stump remaining." (Strype.) It was then cased 
 over by Wren with a new stone, handsomely wrought and cut hollow, something like 
 a Roman altar or pedestal, admitting the ancient fragment, " now not much larger 
 than a bomb-shell," to be seen through a large aperture near the top. The Stone, in 
 its old position on the south side of the street, being complained of as a nuisance, was 
 removed to the north side in 1742, close to the kerb : here again it proved an obstruc- 
 tion ; and in 1798, when St. Swithin's church was about to be repaired, the venerable 
 Stone was by some of the parishioners doomed to destruction ; but Mr. Thomas Maiden, 
 of Sherborne-lane, printer,, prevailed on the parish-officers to have it placed against 
 the south wall of the church, where it now remains. 
 
 In Cannon-street is the spacious City Terminus of the South-Eastern Railway. 
 
 Luther's Table-Talk, English translation, was first "printed by William Du Gard, 
 dwelling in Suffolk-lane, near London-stone, 1652." 
 
 LONDON WALL, 
 
 MOORFIELDS, is a street named from its north side occupying the site of that portion 
 of the City Wall which divided the City Liberty from the Manor of Finsbury, and 
 against which was built Bethlem Hospital, taken down 1817-8 ; when also the Wall 
 was removed : " found uncommonly thick, and the bricks double the size of those now 
 used; the centre filled in with large loose stones, &c." (Hughson's Walks, 1817.) 
 The level of the street has been in parts raised two feet within the last 40 years. Over 
 Helmet Court entrance is a helmet, boldly sculptured in stone. Here is Sion College, 
 described at page 214. 
 
 The Wall, believed to be the work of the later Roman period, when London was 
 often exposed to hostile attacks, extended from the Tower, through the Minories to 
 Aldgate, Houndsditch, Bishopsgate, along London Wall to Fore-street, through 
 Cripplegate and Castle-street to Aldersgate, and so through Christ's Hospital by New- 
 gate and Ludgate towards the Thames. (See CITY WALL AND GATES, pp. 233-236.) 
 
 In October, 1866, excavations at London-wall led to the discovery of a large 
 quantity of bones of horses, oxen, and deer, the horns in high preservation ; also 
 goat-horns, attached to portions of skulls ; spear-handles, decayed, and tipped with 
 horn. Till old Bethlem Hospital was taken down (181718), the greatest part of the 
 ancient wall of London, partly Roman, was to be seen here; and the Hospital itself 
 was built partly upon the City ditch, filled with rubbish, so that it was requisite to 
 shore up and underpin the walls. 
 
 LON& ACRE, 
 
 THE main street between Covent Garden and St. Giles's, and extending from 
 Drury-lane west to St. Martin's-lane, was (temp. Henry VIII.) an open field, 
 called the Elms, from a line of those trees growing upon it, as shown in Aggas's plan. 
 It was next called Seven Acres ; and temp. Charles I., when it was first laid out, it 
 was changed to Long Acre, from the length of the slip of ground first made a path- 
 way. In Phoenix-alley, now Hanover-court, on the south, John Taylor, the water- 
 poet, and a contemporary of Shakspeare, kept an ale-house, first with the sign of 
 The Mourning Crown, for which, at the Commonwealth, he substituted his own head, 
 with this motto :
 
 LONG ACRE. 535 
 
 " There's many a head stands for a sign ; 
 Then, gentle reader, why not mine ?" 
 
 Taylor, as a Thames waterman, stoutly assailed coaches, among the builders of which 
 he died, in Phoenix-alley, in 1653. 
 
 It is related of Prior, the poet, that after spending the evening with Oxford, 
 Bolingbroke, Pope, and Swift, he would go and smoke a pipe, and drink a bottle of 
 ale with a common soldier and his wife in Long Acre, before he went to bed. This 
 woman (also said to have been a cobbler's and an alehouse-keeper's wife) was the 
 beautiful Chloe of Prior's poems : " he used to bury himself for whole days and nights 
 together with this poor mean creature " (Pope). 
 
 The Journey through England, 1722, describes "the Mug-house Club, in Long Acre, where, every 
 Wednesday and Saturday, a mixture of gentlemen, lawyers, and tradesmen, meet in a great room, 
 and are seldom under a hundred. They have a grave old gentleman, in his own grey hairs, now within 
 a few months of ninety years old, who is their president, and sits in an arm'd chair some steps higher 
 than the rest of the company, to keep the whole room in order. A harp plays all the time at the lower 
 end of the room, and every now and then one or other of the company rises and entertains the rest with 
 a song, and (by the by) some are good masters. Here is nothing drunk but ale, and every gentleman 
 hath his separate mug, which he chalks on the table where he sits as it is brought in : and every one 
 retires as he pleases, as from a coffee-house. The room is always so diverted with songs, and drinking 
 from one table to another to one another's healths, that there is no room for politicks, or anything that 
 can sour conversation. One must be there by seven to get room, and after ten the company are for the 
 most part gone." 
 
 Long Acre was at first inhabited by persons of note, and some of the houses are 
 handsomely built ; but coachmakers, and the subordinate trades of coach-trimmers, 
 colourmen, and varnish-makers, have probably lived in Long Acre since the general 
 introduction of coaches, circ. 1630. John Locke (in his Diary, 1679), recommends 
 " Mr. Cox, of Long Acre, for all sorts of dioptrical glasses." A few old signs, in- 
 cluding the goldbeater's gilded arm and hammer, remained to our time, upon the 
 house-fronts ; but the coachmakers have of late years followed fashion westward. The 
 chapel on the north side of Long Acre was the private property of the Rev. John 
 Warner, D.D., an eloquent preacher (d. 1800). In conjunction with Dr. Lettsom and 
 Mr. Nichols, Dr. Warner originated the erection of the statue of John Howard in St. 
 Paul's Cathedral. Among the nostrums of Long Acre were Dr. Gardner's Worm- 
 destroying Medicines, &c. : also, Burchell's Anodyne Necklaces, strongly recommended 
 for teeth-cutting, by Dr. Turner, the inventor; and by Dr. Chamberlain, who is said 
 to have possessed the secret. 
 
 The removal of part of a labyrinth of alleys at the west end of King-street, Covent- 
 garden, has been followed by the partial demolition of Rose-street, a dirty thoroughfare 
 into Long Acre, with a curious literary history. Mr. Cunningham thus carefully narrates : 
 
 " It was in this street (Dec. 18th, 1679) that Dryden, returning to his house in Long Acre, over against 
 Eose-street, was barbarously assaulted and wounded by three persons, hired for the purpose, as is now 
 known, by Wilmot, Earl of Rochester. Fifty pounds were offered by the King for the discovery of the 
 offenders, and a pardon in addition if a principal or accessory would come forward. But Rochester's 
 ' Black Will with a cudgel" (the name he gives his bully) was bribed to silence, it is thought, by a better 
 reward. Rochester took offence at a passage in Lord Mulgrave's Essay on Satire; an essay in which 
 his lordship received assistance from Dryden. There are many allusions to this Rose-alley Ambuscade, 
 as it is called, in our old State poems. So famous, indeed, was the assault, that Mulgrave's poem was 
 commonly called the Rose-alley Satire." 
 
 Samuel Butler, author of Hudibras, lived the latter part of his life in Rose-street, 
 " in a studious, retired manner," and died there in 1680 : he is said to have been 
 buried at the expense of Mr. Longueville, though he did not die in debt. The house 
 in which he died was not taken down until the street disappeared. In the same 
 street, Edmund Curll was living when he published Mr. Pope's Literary Corre- 
 spondence. At the corner of Rose-street, in King-street, lived Mr. Setchel, the book- 
 seller, whose daughter painted that very clever and popular picture, " The Momentous 
 Question." Mr. Setchel and his father had kept shop here for seventy years. 
 
 Endell-street, on the north side, leads to Holborn (see p. 431). St. Martin's Sail 
 was built in 1849, between Charles and Hanover streets (see p. 427) ; and in Castle- 
 street, in 1850, the St. Martin's Northern Schools, Wyld, architect. The style is 
 Byzantine, with two tiers of pointed arches ; the top story being a covered play- 
 ground, 100 feet long, opening to the front by a colonnade, a novel contrivance for 
 keeping the children from the evil ways of the street.
 
 536 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 LOUD MAYOR'S STATE. 
 
 THE salary and allowances paid to the Lord Mayor from the City funds during his 
 year of office, with sums from other sources, amount to about 7900/. He resides 
 in the Mansion House, which is sumptuously furnished, and provided with plate and 
 jewelled ornaments said to be worth from 20,OOOZ. to 30,000. : his household consists of 
 twenty gentlemen, including the Sword-bearer, the Common Hunt, the Common Crier, 
 and the Water-bailiff, all of whom have the title of esquires. He has a splendid retinue 
 of servants, and keeps three tables ; he is provided with a gorgeous state- coach, but 
 not with horses; and he finds the dress-carriage and horses for the Lady Mayoress. 
 (See STATE COACHES.) He is expected to give a certain number of state banquets 
 during the year, in addition to bearing half of the expense of the inauguration- dinner at 
 Guildhall on the 9th of November. The Lord Mayor's dinners are provided by con- 
 tract, but the wines are supplied from the Mansion-House cellars. The mayoralty ex- 
 penses, unless " cool was his kitchen," generally exceed by 40001. the City allowance. 
 The state liveries usually cost 5001. 
 
 The Fool was formerly one of the Lord Mayor's household ; and he was bound by 
 his office to leap, clothes and all, into a large bowl of custard, at the Lord Mayor's 
 inauguration dinner : 
 
 " He may, perchance, in tail of a Sheriff's dinner, 
 Skip with a rime o' the table, from new nothing 1 , 
 And take his almain leap into a custard, 
 Shall make my Lady Mayoress and her sisters 
 Laugh all their hoods over their shoulders." Sen Jonson. 
 
 Custard was a " food much used in City feasts." (Johnson's Dictionary.) 
 
 "Now may'rs and shrieves all hush'd and satiate lay; 
 Yet eat, in dreams, the custard of the day." Pope. 
 
 Costume and Jewels. On ordinary state occasions the Lord Mayor wears a 
 massive black silk robe richly embroidered, and his collar and jewel. In the courts 
 and civic meetings he has a violet silk robe, furred, and barred with black velvet ; and 
 on the bench at the Mansion House, and in the Central Criminal Court, he wears a 
 scarlet robe, furred, and bordered with black velvet. In conducting the Sovereign 
 through the City, the Lord Mayor wears a rich crimson velvet robe, and a court 
 suit, with point lace ; the velvet hood of old has been superseded by a three-cornered 
 dress hat, trimmed with black ostrich -feathers. At state banquets, the Lord Mayor 
 wears an " entertaining robe, richly embroidered with gold:" a new robe, in 1867, cost 
 160 guineas. 
 
 The wear of robes of various colours upon certain days was fixed by a regulation in 1562, and, with 
 the customs and orders for meeting, was printed in a tract by John Day, now very scarce. But the 
 present authority for the customs is a pamphlet printed by direction of the Common Council in 1789. 
 
 The Collar is of pure gold, composed of a series of links, each formed of a letter S ; a 
 united York and Lancaster, or Henry VII. rose; and a massive knolt. The ends of 
 the chain are joined by the portcullis, from the points of which, suspended by a ring 
 of diamonds, hangs the Jewel. The entire Collar contains 28 SS, 14 roses, and 13 
 knolts, and measures 64 inches. The Jewel contains in the centre the City arms, cut 
 in cameo, of a delicate blue, on an olive ground. Surrounding this, a garter, of bright 
 blue, edged with white and gold, bearing the City motto, " Domine dirige nos," in gold 
 letters. The whole is encircled with a costly border of gold SS, alternating with rosettes 
 of diamonds, set in silver. The Jewel is suspended from the collar by a portcullis ; 
 but when worn without the Collar, is suspended by a broad blue ribbon. The investi- 
 ture is by a massive gold chain ; and when the Mayor is re-elected, by two chains. 
 
 Mace and, Swords. The Mace is silver-gilt, is 5 feet 3 inches in length, and bears 
 on the lower part W. R.; it is surmounted with a regal crown and the imperial arms, 
 and has the handle and staff richly chased. The " Pearl Sword," presented by Queen 
 Elizabeth upon opening the Royal Exchange, has a crimson velvet sheath thickly set 
 with pearls ; and the handle, of gold, is richly chased in devices of Justice and Mercy. 
 There are a Sunday sword for church ; a common sword for the Sessions ; and a black^ 
 sword for the 30th of January ; and Sept. 2nd, the anniversary of the Great Fire of 1666.' v 
 
 Seals. The Corporate Seal is circular. Obverse: St. Paul, bearing a sword, and a flag ensigned with
 
 LORD MAYOR'S STATE. 537 
 
 three lions passant-gardant, standing in a city, over the gate of which is a key; legend, SIGIUVM : 
 BABONVM : LONDONIAEVM. Reverie: the City Arms, with mantlings, &c.; legend, LON DONI : 
 DBFEifDE : TVOS : DEVS OPTIME : CIVES. The second Seal, made 4 Kiohard II., bears the effigies of 
 SS. Peter and Paul, canopied. Beneath are the present arms of the City : a cross with a dagger in the 
 dexter quarter, supported by two lions. It appears to have been surmounted with a low-pointed arch. 
 The centre compartment is flanked with two canopied niches ; in each a demi-figure, a serjeant-at-arms, 
 bearing a mace, and wearing a triangular cap. The pedestals of the canopies sustain kneeling figures 
 paying adoration to the Virgin Mary, whose effigy (much effaced) appears in the centre niche at the top 
 of the seal. Legend, SIQILLVM OFFICII : MAJOBATVS : CIVITATIS : LONDIN i : very indistinct 
 from wear. 
 
 The Mayor has been chief butler to the Sovereign at coronation feasts since the reign 
 of Richard III., receiving for his fee a gold cup and cover.* 
 
 The most memorable name in the civic annals is that of Sir Richard Whittington, 
 four times Mayor, 1397, 1398, 1406, 1419. 
 
 Whittington was the son of Sir William Whittington, Knight, and his early destitution rests but upon 
 the nursery tale. His prosperity is referred to the coal-carrying Cat of Newcastle ; but a scarce print, 
 by Elstrake, of Whittington in his mayoralty robes, has a cat beside the figure, showing the version of 
 the nursery tale to have beep then popular : in the early impressions of this plate a skull appears in place 
 of the cat, which has rendered the original print a rarity of great price among collectors. Whittington's 
 wealth rebuilt Newgate, and St. Michael's Church, Paternoster Royal; built part of St. Bartholomew's 
 Hospital, and the library of Christ's Hospital, and added to the Guildhall. He also bequeathed his house 
 at " College-hill" for a college and almshouse, which have been taken down, and the institution removed 
 to a handsome collegiate building near Highgate Archway, not far from the stone marking the spot 
 whereon tradition states Whittington to have rested when a poor boy and listened to the bells of Bow ; 
 the original stone (removed in 1821) is said to have been set up by desire of Whittington, to assist horse- 
 men to mount at the foot of the bill. Whittington was buried in St. Michael's Church, beneath a costly 
 marble tomb; but his remains were twice disturbed before the church was destroyed by fire, and now 
 there is no olden memorial of Whittington to be traced; his statue has been placed in the Royal Exchange. 
 Whittington was of the Mercers' Company, " flos mercatornm :" his will at Mercers' Hall bears a curious 
 illumination of Whittington on his death-bed, his three executors, a priest, &c. Whittington is also said 
 to have lived in Sweedon's-passage, Grub-street; and in a court in Hart-street, Mark-lane, was formerly 
 a building termed in old leases " Whittington's Palace." 
 
 Sir Geoffry Bullen, Lord Mayor in 1453, was grandfather to Thomas Earl of Wilt- 
 shire, father to Anne Bullen, and grandfather to Queen Elizabeth; the highest genea- 
 logical honour the City can boast of. 
 
 "The ennobled families of Cornwallis, Capel, Coventry, Legge, Cowper, Thynne, Ward, Craven, 
 Marsham, Pulteney, Hill, Holies, Osborne, Cavendish, Bennet, and others, have sprung either directly or 
 collaterally from those who have been either Mayors, Sheriffs, or Aldermen of London ; and a very large 
 portion of the peerage of the United Kingdom is related either by descent or intermarriage, to the citizens 
 of the metropolis." Thoma Moule. 
 
 In 1858 the services of the Watermen in the Lord Mayor's State Barge being no 
 longer required, the sum of 51. each, equivalent to one's year's emolument, was paid, 
 on the badge, cap, and clothing being delivered up. 
 
 In 1865 an old custom was revived at the Mansion House, which had fallen into 
 disuse since 1857, that of an oflicer of the Corporation, wearing an official robe and 
 carrying a staff of office, escorting the Lord Mayor daily from the Mansion House to 
 the Court, and announcing him on his taking his seat on the bench. The staff used in 
 the ceremony is a very ancient symbol of dignity, and is scarcely less part of the in- 
 signia of the Corporation than the sword and mace. It is about seven feet high, and 
 is surmounted with a massive representation of the City arms in silver-gilt, and the 
 official robe of the usher is in keeping. 
 
 The table plate is very valuable. Formerly it was always customary for a Lord 
 Mayor to contribute 1001. towards keeping up the Corporation plate, but this has 
 not been observed for about the last 30 years. 
 
 The total expenses of the Banquet and Procession on Lord Mayor's-day, 1865, amounted to 
 3102/. lls. ^d. Of this, one-half was paid by the Lord Mayor (Mr. Alderman Phillips) and the other 
 half by the two Sheriff's (Mr. Alderman Gibbons and Mr. J. Figgins). The contract for the dinner and 
 wine amounted to 16391. 14*. lOd. The decorations cost 7361. 8s. 4d., including 301. 12s. for loan of deco- 
 rations, flags, armour, &c., from War and Store Office; 4,11. for repairing and arranging flags; 401. for 
 hire of looking-glasses ; 601. for hire of flowering plants and shrubs; 251. for hire of awning; 1051. for 
 gas-fitting; 1001. for gas; 2131. for upholstery; and 331. for plumbing and painting. The procession 
 cost 2761. 8s. 10d., and included 10U. 7s. for five bands of music ; 321. 11*. for banners and banner- 
 bearers ; 301. 17*. for rosettes and scarfs ; 641. 3s. lOd. for refreshment of troops and police ; 71. 10*. for 
 gravelling the streets ; and 401. for decorating Ludgate^hill and Fleet-street. The music in Guildhall cost 
 501. 19*.; the printing and stationery, 1431. 13s. 9d. The general expenses are put down at 2551. 6s. 7d^ 
 
 * There is current a piece of City gossip, of a Silver Cradle being customarily presented at the 
 accouchement of a Lady Mayoress; but in 1735 and 1813, such an event was merely signalized by a con- 
 gratulatory vote of the Court of Common Council.
 
 538 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and include some of the most curious items, such as men on the roof, 4Z. 4s. ; men bringing up provisions 
 for distribution to the poor, II. Is.; bell-ringers at ten churches, 201.; Hatley, drummer, Royal London 
 Militia, donation in consideration of an accident to him in the procession, 51. ; wands and decorations for 
 Committee, 701. 7s. 6d.; gold pens and pencil-cases, for Chairman and Secretary, 91. 15s.; seal for the 
 Chairman, 61. 14s. ; gloves, 101. 18s. ; toilet articles for ladies' rooms, 291. lie. ; padlocks, 51., &c. &c. 
 Total, 31021. 11*. 4d. 
 
 The bill of the feast of the Mayor of Norwich, in the time of Queen Elizabeth, when he entertained 
 the Queen and her court, was Total charge, 11. 12. dd. Three of the items were Eight stone of beef 
 at 8d. per stone, and a sirloin, 5. 3d. ; a hind-quarter of veal, lOd. ; bushel of flour, 6d. ; two gallons of 
 white wine and canary, 2s. 
 
 LUD&ATE, LUDGATE SILL AND STREET. 
 
 T UDGATE, one of the principal gates of the City, was situated at the western ex- 
 J-^ tremity of Bowyer's-row, now Ludgate-hill, between the London Coffee-house and 
 St. Martin's Church. Geoffrey of Monmouth states the gate to have been built by the 
 British King Lud, 66 B.C. : hence its traditional name ; but more probably from the 
 Flood, or Flud, which ran into Fleet-river. We find no further mention of it until 
 1215, when it was fortified or rebuilt by the barons leagued against King John, and 
 who employed as materials the remains of the stone houses of opulent Jews, which had 
 been destroyed, as proved by a stone discovered in 1586, inscribed in Hebrew, " This 
 is the ward of Rabbi Moses, the son of the honourable Rabbi Isaac." In 1260 the 
 gate was again repaired, and ornamented on the east side with statues of Lud and his 
 two sons ; and subsequently the statue of Queen Elizabeth was placed in the west front. 
 Ludgate was much injured in the Great Fire of 1666, and is shown in Greffier's picture, 
 engraved by Birch. The gate is described by Charnberlayne (1726) as a prison " only 
 for debtors who are freemen of London." In the Spectator, No. 82, is " a voice bawl- 
 ing for charity at the grate ;" just as in our time the prisoners of the Fleet loudly 
 called upon those who passed the grate, " Pray remember the poor debtors," as 
 the board above stated, " having no allowance." Pennant describes Ludgate, within 
 his memory, " a wretched prison for debtors." It was taken down, 1760-62, when 
 the statue of Elizabeth was placed at the east end of St. Dunstan's Church, Fleet-street, 
 and the other statues were disposed of as described at p. 235. By a plan preserved 
 in St. Martin's vestry-room, the great arch and postern of Ludgate was 37 ft. 6 in. 
 wide in front, and 39 ft. deep. Ludgate was made a free prison in 1378 (1st Richard 
 II.) ; but its privileges were soon violated, and it became a place of great oppression. 
 Rowley's comedy of A Woman never vext, or the Widow of Cornhill, is founded upon 
 the tradition of the handsome Stephen Foster, Lord Mayor in 1454, begging at the 
 grate of Ludgate, and attracting the sympathy of a rich widow, who paid the debt for 
 which he was confined, and afterwards married him : 
 
 " Mrs. 8. Foster. But why remove the prisoners from Ludgate ? 
 
 Stephen Foster. To take the prison down and build it new, 
 With leads to walk on, chambers large and fair; 
 For when myself lay there, the noxious air 
 Choked up my spirits. None but captives, wife, 
 Can know what captives feel." Act v. sc. 1. 
 
 Between 1454 and 1463 the prison was much enlarged, and a chapel built by Dame 
 Agnes Foster and the executors of Stephen her husband, as thus recorded on a copper- 
 plate upon the walls : 
 
 "Deout soules that passe this way, 
 
 for Stephen Foster, late Maior, heartily pray, 
 And Dame Agnes, his spouse, to God consecrate, 
 
 that of pitie this house made of Londoners in Ludgate, 
 So that for lodging and water prisoners here nought pay, 
 as their keepers shall all answere at dreadful doomes day." 
 
 At the rebuilding of Ludgate in 1566, "the verse being unhappily turned inward to the wall," Stow 
 tells us he had the like " graven outward in prose, declaring him (Foster) to be a fishmonger, because 
 some upon a light occasion (as a maiden's head in a glass window) had fabled him to be a mercer, and 
 to have begged there at Ludgate," &c. 
 
 A quarto tract, Prison Thoughts, by Thomas Browning, a prisoner in Ludgate, 
 " where poore citizens are confined and starved amidst copies of their freedom," was 
 published in that prison by the author in 1682, and is supposed to have suggested Dr. 
 Dodd's Prison Thoughts.
 
 MAGDALEN HOSPITAL. 539 
 
 Ludgate-hill formerly extended from Fleet-street to St. Martin's Church (see p. 
 180) j and Ludgate-street from thence to St. Paul's. On the hill, opposite the gate, 
 stopped the rehellion of Sir Thomas Wyat ; and below is the Sell Savage Inn, 
 described at p. 452. Near this spot lived the famous cobbler whom Steele mentions 
 as a curious instance of pride ; he had a wooden figure of a beau of the time, who 
 stood before him in a bending posture, humbly presenting him with his awl, or bristle, 
 or whatever else his employer chose to put in his hand, after the manner of an obse- 
 quious servant. Ludgate-street and hill were famous for mercers in Stow's time. At 
 the north-east corner (St. Paul's Churchyard), No. 65, lived John Newbery, for whom 
 Goldsmith wrote Goody Ttuo-shoes, a pamphlet on the Cock-lane Ghost, a History 
 of England, and edited the Public Ledger newspaper. To Newbery succeeded John 
 Harris, and next Grant and Griffith, now Griffith and Farran, worthy successors of 
 Newbery. At " the Dunciad," in Ludgate-street, Dr. Griffiths published the Monthly 
 'Review, No. 1, May 1749. 
 
 On the north is Ave-Maria-lane, leading to Amen-corner and Paternoster-row ; and 
 Stationers' Hall-court, leading to the hall of the Stationers' Company (see pp. 
 420-422.) On the south is Creed-lane, with another ecclesiastical name. 
 
 In 1792 was discovered a barbican, or watch-tower, between Ludgate and the Fleet-ditch, forming 
 part of the extension of the City wall in 1276 ; a fine fragment of which exists in St. Martin's-court 
 opposite the Old Bailey. In a bastion of the wall, in 1800, was found a sepulchral monument, in the 
 rear of Xo. 24, the London Coffee-house, where it is now preserved : it is dedicated to Claudina Martina, 
 by her husband Anencletus, a provincial Roman soldier. Here are also a fragment of a statue of Hercules, 
 and a female head. 
 
 At No. 32, north side, was the picturesque old shop-front of Rundell and Bridge, 
 goldsmiths and diamond-jewellers to the Crown, with the sign of the Golden Salmon. 
 Here was executed Flaxman's Shield of Achilles, in silver-gilt : and here was fitted up 
 the imperial Crown for the coronation of George IV. in 1821 ; and a silver wine-cooler 
 which occupied two years in chasing. Mrs. Rundell wrote The Art of Cookery (Domestic 
 Cookery), for which she ultimately received 2000 guineas. At No. 45, William Hone 
 published his political satires, with woodcuts by Crulkshank ; and his Every-day Book, 
 Ancient Mysteries, fyc. In the house No. 7, opposite Hone's, was published another suc- 
 cessful venture, the Percy Anecdotes, contemporary with the Every-day Book. 
 
 The lower portion of Ludgate-hill is crossed by the London, Chatham, and Dover 
 Railway viaduct, which has been much objected to ; yet the inhabitants gave evidence 
 in its favour ; and the design is identical with that exhibited by the Company, in 1860, 
 before Parliament. The objections are too numerous to detail here : one is, inter- 
 ference with one of the finest architectural views in the metropolis. Coleridge, many 
 
 years since, remarked : " A Mr. H , a friend of Fox's, who always put himself 
 
 forward to interpret the great orator's sentiments, and almost took the words out of 
 his mouth, put him in mind of the steeple of St. Martin, on Ludgate-hill, which is 
 constantly getting in the way when you wish to see the dome of St. Paul's." How- 
 ever, Coleridge's remark is here mal-apropos ; for St. Martin's Church spire improves 
 the view of St. Paul's. It is true that the level of the bridge is low, but it has unques- 
 tionably spoiled the view, and its small elevation above the street (18 feet) traffic is an 
 objection of another class. The street of Ludgate-hill is here only 42 feet wide ; 
 but, as the Corporation intend, at some future time, to enlarge the thoroughfare, the 
 span is 18 feet wider than the street, or 60 feet. The bridge is composed of five 
 girders of wrought iron, screened from sight by ornamental iron- work, and relieved 
 with decorative brackets, bronze armorial medallions, and handsome gas-lanterns 
 and standards. It carries four lines of rails. Through Ludgate-hill there have passed, 
 in twelve hours, 8752 vehicles, 13,025 horses, and 105,352 persons. The entire line 
 from Bridge-street to St. Paul's is now 
 
 s 
 
 MAGDALEN HOSPITAL, 
 
 T. GEORGE'S FIELDS, for the relief and reformation of unfortunate women andpeni- 
 tent prostitutes, was projected by Robert Dingley, Jonas Hanway, and a few others,
 
 540 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 in 1758 j* and opened at a house in Prescot-street, Goodman's-fields, when eight un- 
 Lappy objects were admitted ; and from thence to Feb. 26, 1761, there were received 
 into "Magdalen-house" 281: of a hundred inmates, not a seventh were 15 
 years old. 
 
 Among the names of the earliest benefactors occurs that of Omychund, the black merchant of Cal- 
 cutta. He bequeathed between this and the Foundling Hospital 37,500 current rupees, to be equally 
 divided. Unfortunately, however, " a portion only of this munificent legacy could be extracted from the 
 grasp of Hurzorimal, his executor, notwithstanding the zealous interference of the Governor-general 
 (Warren Hastings) and other eminent functionaries." Srownlow. 
 
 Another early promoter was the Rev. William Dodd, " the unfortunate," who, in 
 1759, preached a sermon for the benefit of the charity j and again in 1760, before 
 Prince Edward, Duke of York : both sermons are eloquent compositions, were printed, 
 and large editions sold.'f The Magdalens wore a grey uniform dress, high in the neck, 
 long black mittens, mob-cap, and a broad black chip hat. In the list of contributors 
 we find " A Lady unknown, a Lottery. Ticket, No. 34987, in the Lottery 1758, a 
 Prize of 5001. ;" Lord Chesterfield, 211. per annum ; " Will's Coffee-house, Lincoln's 
 Inn, 16Z. 16*. ;" the " Charity Boxes," in one year, received 458Z. 10*. ; and the 
 women's needlework produced 282Z. 11*. Bd. : there being about 100 in the house. 
 
 Among their employments was making their own clothes, spinning the thread and making the cloth ; 
 to knit their stockings : to make bone-lace, black lace, artificial flowers, children's toys, winding silk, 
 embroidery, millinery, making women's and children's shoes, mantuas, stays, coats, cauls for wigs, 
 weaving hair for perukes, making leathern and silken gloves and garters, drawing patterns, making 
 soldiers'' clothes and seamen's slops, making carpets after the Turkey manner, &c. 
 
 In 1769, the charity was incorporated and the institution declared extra-parochial : 
 the present Hospital was commenced, 6| acres of St. George's common fields having 
 been purchased by the governors. Attached to the Hospital is a chapel, rendered 
 attractive by the singing of the Magdalens, screened from the congregation ; and the 
 donations at the chapel doors are very productive to the Hospital funds : formerly, the 
 admission on Sunday evenings was by ticket. Queen Charlotte patronized this charity 
 56 years. Queen Victoria became patroness in 1841. 
 
 Fit objects for the Magdalen charity are admitted without any recommendation, on their own appli- 
 cation and petition, on the first Thursday in every month. More than 8000 have been received since the 
 Hospital was established ; more than two-thirds have been permanently reclaimed, and many have 
 married and become respectable members of society : all who have behaved well are discharged with 
 some provision for their future maintenance. 
 
 MANSION HOUSE, TEH, 
 
 OF the Lord Mayor, and his residence during his year of office, occupies the site of 
 Stocks'-market, nearly facing the area of the Royal Exchange. The foundation 
 of the Mansion-house was laid in 1739 by Lord Mayor Perry ; but the building was 
 not finished until 1753, in the mayoralty of Sir Crisp Gascoigne, the first Lord Mayor 
 who resided in it. The architect was the elder Mr. Dance ; the style is that of 
 Palladio; and the building, which is entirely insulated, is of Portland-stone, and re- 
 sembles a massive Italian palace. The principal front has a very fine Corinthian 
 portico, with six fluted columns, supporting a pediment, in the tympanum of which is 
 a group of allegorical sculpture by Sir Robert Taylor. In the centre is a female im- 
 personation of the City of London, trampling on her enemies ; on her right is the 
 Roman lictor, and a boy bearing the cap of liberty ; and beyond them is Neptune and 
 nautical insignia. To the left of the centre is another female attended by two boys, 
 and bearing an olive-branch and cornucopia; the extreme angles being filled with casks, 
 bales, and other emblems of commerce. On each side a flight of steps, balustraded, 
 ascends to the entrance beneath the portico ; and in the rusticated basement is the en- 
 trance to the offices. On the west side is a Roman-Doric porch. A long narrow attic, 
 called the Mare's (Mayor's) Nest, has been removed from the roof. 
 
 The interior of the block of buildings was an open court of elaborate character, 
 
 * A plan of the kind was suggested in the Gentleman's Magazine for April 1751 ; and the Rambler, 
 No. 107. 
 
 t AcRount of the Magdalen Charity; with the above Sermons, Advice to the Magdalens, Prayers, 
 Eules, &c. Printed in 1761.
 
 MANSIONS. 541 
 
 similar to that part of an Italian palace ; but the central area is now filled with the 
 saloon, which is of wood. This grand banquet-room was designed by the Earl of 
 Burlington, and is called the Egyptian Hall, from its accordance with the Egyptian 
 Hall described by Vitruvius. It has two side screens of lofty columns, supporting a 
 vaulted roof, and lit by a large western window ; it can dine 400 guests, and here the 
 Lord Mayor gives his State-banquets. In the side walls are sixteen niches, filled with 
 sculptured groups or figures. (See STATUES.) 
 
 There are other dining-rooms ; as the Venetian Parlour, Wilkes's Parlour, &c. The 
 drawing-rooms and ball-room are superbly decorated ; above the latter is the Justice- 
 room (constructed in 1849), where the Lord Mayor sits daily. In a contiguous apart 
 ment was the State Bed. There are a few gallery portraits and other pictures. The 
 kitchen is a large hall, provided with ranges, each of them large enough to roast an 
 entire ox. The vessels for boiling meat and vegetables are not pots but tanks. The 
 stewing range is a long broad iron pavement laid down over a series of furnaces ; the 
 spits are huge cages formed of iron bars, and turned by machinery. 
 
 At one time the Household of the Lord Mayor was about twenty-four in number, who held their 
 offices by purchase, and with a power of alienation. At the head of them were the four esquires of the 
 Lord Mayor, of whom the Swordbearer was the senior; and among the rank and file were the Lord 
 Mayor's Clerk, the Common Crier, the Common Hunt, three Serjeant Carvers, three Serjeants of the 
 Chamber, the Serjeant of the Channel, the two Marshals, the Attorneys of the Mayor's Court (four in 
 number), the Water Bailiff, and several more. When on duty they had all the right to dine at the 
 Swordbearer's table, and as the services of many of them were in daily requisition, a dinner was provided 
 daily throughout the year at the cost of the Chief Magistrate for the time being. About the year 1822 
 the household dinners were limited, by a resolution of the Court of Common Council, to thirteen in the 
 year, on so many civic state occasions; and in still more modern times the number has been gradually 
 curtailed, until the entertainment given annually on Plough Monday is the only one that survives. On 
 the abolition of the daily table many of the household compounded for the lost privilege by the receipt 
 of 100Z. a year each, for the rest of their lives, upon the basis of 7*. 6d. a day ; and the official income of 
 the Lord Mayor was diminished by 1QOQI. a year in consideration of his being relieved from the obliga- 
 tion of providing it. All the members of the household now hold their offices by election, and no longer 
 by purchase. 
 
 MANSIONS. 
 
 APSLEY HOUSE (Duke of Wellington), Hyde-park-corner, Piccadilly, and happily 
 called by a foreigner " No. 1, London," was built about 1785-6, by the Adams, 
 for Charles Bathurst Baron Apsley, Earl Bathurst and Lord Chancellor, who died in 
 1794. Here resided the Marquis Wellesley, elder brother of the great Duke of 1 
 Wellington, who purchased the house in 1820. It was then a plain brick mansion, but 
 was cased with Bath-stone in 1828, by B. Wyatt, who designed the tetrastyle Corinthian ' ' 
 portico and pediment upon a rusticated entrance arcade ; built a gallery and suite of 
 rooms on the west or Hyde-park side, and enlarged the garden by a strip of ground 
 from the Park. These additions and repairs are stated to have cost 130,OOOZ. 
 
 The bullet-proof iron Venetian blinds (the first of the kind) were put up by the late Duke of Wel- 
 lington, after his windows had been broken by the Reform Bill mobs ; and these blinds were not removed 
 during the Duke's life-time. " They shall stay where they are," was his remark, " as a monument of 
 the gullibility of a mob, and the worthlessness of that sort of popularity for which they who give it can 
 assign no good reason. 1 don't blame the men that broke my windows ; they only did what they were 
 instigated to do by others who ought to have known better. But if any one be disposed to grow giddy 
 with popular applause, I think that a glance towards these iron shutters will soon sober him." The 
 blinds have long been removed. 
 
 The court-yard is enclosed by richly bronzed metal gates (in which the Grecian honey- 
 suckle is finely cast) ; and the stone piers have curious chapiters. The hall-door and 
 knocker belong to the original house. In the waiting-room is Steell's bust of " the 
 Duke j" Castlereagh, by Chantrey ; Pitt, by Nollekens ; and a reduced copy of Ranch's 
 statue of Blucher; busts of Mr. Perceval, Colonel Gurwood, Mr. Ponsonby, &c. At 
 the foot of the grand staircase is Canova's colossal marble statue of Napoleon, holding 
 a bronze figure of Victory in his right hand : it is Canova's noblest and most antique- 
 looking workj it is 11 feet high, and, except the left arm, was cut from one block of 
 marble. 
 
 The pictures in the first Drawing-room include the Card-players, by Caravaggio, fine 
 in expression, and marvellous in colour, light, and shade ; the great Duke of Marlborough 
 on horseback (from White Knights), probably by Vandermeulen; "Chelsea Pensioner 
 reading the Gazette of the Battle of Waterloo," a commission to Wilkie from the
 
 542 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON 
 
 Duke, for which he paid 1200 guineas in bank notes ; and the companion-picture, 
 " Greenwich Pensioners," by Burnet, and bought from him by the Duke for 500 
 guineas; Van Amburg in the Den with Lions and Tigers, painted by Sir E. Landseer, R.A., 
 after the instructions of the Duke, who with the Bible in his hand, pointed out the 
 passage (Gen. i. 26) in which dominion is given to Adam over the earth and 
 animals : " he caused the text to be inscribed on the frame as an authority which con- 
 ferred on him a privilege of power, and gave to himself ' the great commission ' which 
 he carried out on the fields of battle and chase." (Quarterly Review, No. clxxxiv.) 
 Next are large copies by Bonnemaison, after the four celebrated pictures by Raphael 
 at Madrid ; the Melton Hunt, by Grant, R. A. ; Napoleon studying the map of Europe, a 
 small full-length ; Mr. Pitt, by Hoppner ; the Highland Whisky-still, by Landseer, R.A. ; 
 and portraits of Marshal Soult, Lord Beresford, Lord Lynedoch, and Lord Anglesey, by 
 Sir Thomas Lawrence ; Lord Nelson, by Sir William Beechey ; Sir George Murray, 
 Sir Thomas Picton ; and Sarah, the first Lady Lyndhurst, by Wilkie : the canvas was 
 pierced by a stone during a Reform Bill riot, but it has been cleverly repaired. Here 
 are portraits of the Emperor Nicholas, of the Wellesley family, and, by Winterhalter, of 
 the Duke's godson, Prince Arthur. Here also are George IV. and William IV. (whole- 
 lengths), by Sir D. Wilkie. There are at least six portraits of Napoleon j and full- 
 lengths of the Emperor Alexander ; and Kings of Prussia, France, and the Netherlands. 
 Still, there is no faithful or worthy representation of the Duke in the collection ; nor 
 of statesmen of his -generation not even Peel. There is but one battle-scene 
 Waterloo, taken from Napoleon's head-quarters by Sir W. Allan ; of this picture the 
 Duke observed, " Good, very good not too much smoke." 
 
 Among the furniture are two magnificent Roman mosaic tables ; a splendid pair of 
 Sevres vases, the gift of Louis XVIII. ; a malachite vase, from Alexander Emperor of 
 Russia ; a service of Sevres china, from Louis XVIII., &c. 
 
 In the Picture-gallery, in the western wing, the Waterloo Banquet was held annually 
 on June 18, until 1852. Over the fireplace hangs a copy of the " Windsor " Charles I. 
 on horseback. Here is the gem of the collection, " Christ on the Mount of Olives," 
 by Correggio, on panel, the most celebrated specimen of the master in this country : the 
 light proceeds from the Saviour. This picture was captured in Spain, in the carriage 
 of Joseph Bonaparte, and restored by the captor to Ferdinand VII., but was presented 
 to the Duke by that Sovereign. Next in excellence are the examples of Velasquez, 
 chiefly portraits, and "the Water-seller;" a Female holding a wreath, by Titian; 
 specimens of Claude, Teniers, and Jan Steen ; the Signing of the Peace of Westphalia, by 
 Terburg, from the Talleyrand collection. Here is also a repetition of the Madonna della 
 Sedia of Raphael, by Giulio Romano; and a marble bust of Pauline Bonaparte, by Canova. 
 In the centre are two majestic candelabra of Russian porphyry, 12 feet high, pre- 
 sented by Alexander Emperor of Russia; and two fine vases of Swedish porphyry, 
 from the King of Sweden. The Gallery and the Waterloo Banquet are well seen in 
 Salter's large picture, engraved by Greatbatch ; and the Duke receiving his Guests has 
 been painted by J. P. Knight, R.A. 
 
 In the China-room, on the ground-floor, are a magnificent Dresden dessert-service, presented by the 
 King of Saxony, painted with the Duke's victories in India, the Peninsula, and at Waterloo; other ser- 
 vices of china presented by the Emperor of Austria, the King of Prussia, and Louis XVIII. : the silver 
 plateau, 30 feet long and 30 feet wide, and lighted by 106 wax tapers, the gift of the King of Portugal; 
 three silver-gilt candelabra (a foot-soldier, life-size), presented by the Corporation of London : the 
 superb Waterloo Vase, from the City merchants and bankers; and the Wellington Shield, designed by 
 T. Stothard, R.A., and in general treatment resembling Flaxman's Shield of Achilles. It is silver-gilt, 
 circular, about 3 ft. 8 in. diameter. In the centre is the Duke of Wellington on horseback, the head of 
 his charger forming the boss of the shield: around him are his illustrious officers; above is Fame 
 crowning the Duke with a wreath of laurel : and at his feet are prostrate figures of Anarchy, Discord, 
 and Tyranny. The wonder of this central group is the management of the horses within the circle (of 
 oak-branches), the evolutions of the chargers emanating from the centre, in itself a most original con- 
 ception. The border of the shield is in ten compartments, each bearing a bas-relief of the principal 
 events in the Duke's military life, to the Peace of 1814, and are as follows : Assaye, Vimiera, the Douro, 
 Torres Vedras, Badajoz, Salamanca, Vittpria, the Pyrenees, Toulouse, and the Duke receiving his coronet 
 from the Prince Regent. Stothard's designs are large drawings in sepia: he made his own models for 
 the chaser, etched the designs the same size as the originals, and received his own demands, 150 guineas. 
 The columns, by Smirke, stand one on each side of the shield, about 4 ft. 3 in. high, surmounted with 
 figures of Fame and Victory : each column consists of a palm-tree, with a capital of leaves ; around the 
 base are emblematic figures, and military trophies and weapons at the angles. The cost of this superb 
 national gift, completed in 1822, was 70001.
 
 MANSIONS. 543 
 
 In the China-room, also, are bronze busts, of great spirit and finish, of Henri 
 Quatre, the Prince of Conde, Louis XIV., Marshal Turenne, and the Marquis 
 Wellesley. Beyond is the Secretary's-room, the Great Duke's private room, and lastly |( 
 his bed-room, which, early in 1853, the public were permitted to inspect, precisely ar- 
 ranged as they were last used by his Grace, in September, 1852: the library he con- 
 sulted, the books he kept beside him for reference, the mass of papers, maps, and 
 documents, even to the latest magazine, were undisturbed. The Duke's room was 
 lined with bookcases and despatch -boxes, and had a red morocco reading-chair, a second 
 chair, a desk to stand and write at ; a circular-topped writing-table ; two engravings 
 of the Duke, one when young, the other (by Count D'Orsay) when old ; a small 
 drawing of the Countess of Jersey, by Cosway, between medallions of the present 
 Duchess of Wellington and Jenny Lind. In the Secretary's-room was a rough un- 
 painted box, which accompanied the Duke through all his wars; in which be stowed 
 away his private documents, and whereon he wrote many of his despatches, and traced 
 the orders for military manoeuvres. 
 
 A short passage to the east leads to "the Duke's bed-room," which is narrow, 
 shapeless, and ill-lighted; the bedstead small, provided with only a mattress and 
 bolster, and scantily curtained with green silk ; the only ornaments of the room being 
 an unfinished sketch of the present Duchess of Wellington, two cheap prints of 
 military men, and a small portrait in oil. Yet here slept the Great Duke, whose 
 " eightieth year was by." In the grounds and shrubbery he took daily walking exer- 
 cise ; where, with the garden-engine, he was wont to enjoy exertion.* Lastly, " in 
 fine afternoons, the sun casts the shadow of the Duke's equestrian statue full upon 
 Apsley House, and the sombre image may be seen gliding spirit-like over the front." 
 (Quarterly Review, No. clxxxiv.) The house and pictures can only be seen by special 
 permission. A Catalogue raisonnee is published by Mitchell, Old Bond-street. 
 
 Part of the site of Apsley House was a piece of ground given by George II. to an old soldier, Allen, 
 whom the king recognised as having served in the battle of Dettingen. Upon this spot Allen built a 
 small tenement, in place of the apple-stall kept by his wife; and on the erection of Apsley House, in 
 1784, the ground was sold for a considerable sum by Allen's successors to Apsley, Lord Bathurst. The 
 apple-stall is shown in a print dated 1766. 
 
 AHGYLL HOUSE, Argyll-street, centre of the east side, was a plain mansion, with a 
 front court-yard, and was formerly the residence of the Duke of Argyll, by whom it 
 was sold, about 1820, to the Earl of Aberdeen : here " the Aberdeen Ministry " was 
 formed in 1852. 
 
 Soon after the succession of the present Earl to the title, in 1864, his lordship had part of the 
 premises fitted up as an industrial school for about sixty boys ; there were a class-room, in which the 
 boys were instructed ; a dining or mess room; work rooms, in which useful trades, such as shoemaking, 
 tailoring, &c., were taught; and a lecture-room, hi which lectures were given to the poor of the neigh- 
 bourhood. The coach-house, in Marlborousfh-mews, was changed into baths and lavatories, and accom- 
 modation for some of the boys to sleep on the premises. The whole were carried out on a similar 
 principle to the schools of Dr. Guthrie in Edinburgh. The boys were also clothed and fed by the noble 
 earl ; the most destitute in the neighbourhood were admitted. 
 
 The mansion was sold July 5, 1862, for 18.500Z., and was taken down : it com- 
 prised a paved hall, 30 feet by 21 feet ; a great drawing-room, 27 feet by 21 feet; a 
 banqueting-room, 43 feet by 31 feet ; a library, 24 feet by 19 feet, &c., all fitted with 
 statuary, &c. The rooms were stately, but sombre. On August 24th was sold here 
 the late Earl's valuable parliamentary and miscellaneous library, together with Eng- 
 lish and foreign works in connexion with architecture and the fine arts; a col- 
 lection of manuscripts in Arabic, Persian, Turkish, Greek, and Latin, on vellum, and 
 illuminated in gold and colours. The site is now occupied by a new Bazaar.. \u 
 
 BAKING, Mr. T., No. 41, Upper Grosvenor-street, has a fine collection of pictures ; 
 Dutch and Flemish, from the cabinet of the Baron Verstolk, at the Hague; Italian, 
 formerly Sir Thomas Baring's ; English pictures, mostly from the exhibitions of the 
 Eoyal Academy. Among the Spanish pictures are four specimens by Murillo, in- 
 cluding the Madonna on the Crescent. Here, also, is St. Jerome in his Studv, an 
 authentic picture by J. Van Eyck ; with works of N. and G. Poussin, Parmegiano, 
 
 * Jan. 2, 1820. General Bonaparte was "amusing himself with the pipe of the fire-engine, spouting 
 water on the trees and flowers in his favourite garden." Journal of Capt. Nicholls: Captivity of Na- 
 poleon at St. Helena ; Sir Hudson Lowe's Letters and Journals, 1853.
 
 544 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 L. Caracci, C. Dolci, Salvator Rosa, Morales, &c. The collection can be seen only 
 through introduction of Mr. Baring's friends. 
 
 BATH HOUSE (Lord Ashburton), No. 82, Piccadilly, built by the first Lord Ash- 
 burton upon the site of the old mansion of Sir William Pulteney, Bart. The entrance 
 is from Bolton-street : the hall occupies the centre of the' mansion to the roof, of em- 
 bossed glass ; and the principal apartments open into its gallery, which has a richly- 
 gilt balustrade. This hall has a parqueted oak floor, and the walls are painted with 
 Pompeian subjects : here are antique busts and modern statues j including Tlior- 
 waldsen's Hebe, and Mercury as the Slayer of Argus. The principal apartments 
 command a view over the Green Park and St. James's Park, with Buckingham Palace ; 
 Piccadilly being masked by the terrace- wall : the floors are oak, and doors mahogany. 
 
 The Ashburton collection is pre-eminent for its Dutch and Flemish pictures, from the cabinet of 
 Talleyrand. Here are : Portraits of Jansen, and the writing-master Lieven van Coppenhol, by Rem- 
 brandt : Moses before the Burning Bush, Domeniehino ; Alehouse, and Playing at Nine Pins, Jan 
 Steen; La Ferine au Colombier, Wouvermans; Rape of the Sabines, and Reconciliation of Romans and 
 Sabines, small, but cost 1000Z.; St. Thomas of Villaneuva dividing his Cloak with Beggar-boys, and tho 
 Virgin attended by Angels, Murillo ; Water-mill, Karl du Jardin ; fine specimens of Cuyp, Wouvermans, 
 Teniers, Ostade, and Paul Potter; Hay-harvest, A. Vandervelde; Lobster-catchers, and Le Fagot, N. 
 Berghem; the Infant Christ asleep in the arms of the Virgin, an Angel lifting the Quilt, Leonardo da 
 Vinci (belonged to the Prior of the Escurial) : St. Peter, St. Margaret, St. Mary Magdalene, and Andrew 
 of Padua, Correggio ; Daughter of Herodias with the head of St. John, Titian ; Christ on the Mount of 
 Olives, P.Veronese; Stag-hunt, Velasquez; Wolf-hunt, Rubens; Virgin and Child, and Charles I. and 
 Henrietta-Maria (full-lengths), Vandyke; Hermit Praying, G. Douw; Boy blowing Bubbles, Netscher; 
 Street in Utrecht (sunshine), De Hooghe ; Head of Ariadne, Sir Joshua Reynolds ; Head, Holbein ; works 
 of Wynants, Ruysdael, Hobbema, &c. 
 
 In the dining-room of Bath House were wont to meet Thomas Moore, J. W. Croker, 
 Sydney Smith, and J. G. Lockhart; Dr. Coplestone, Bishop of Llandaff; Rogers, 
 Hallam, Chantrey, Wilkie, and Theodore Hook. 
 
 BEDFOBD, DUKE OF, No. 6, Belgrave-square : the mansion contains a small but very 
 choice collection of Dutch pictures, &c. 
 
 Here are : Herodias with the Head of John the Baptist, by Giorgione ; study of Two Dogs, by Titian ; 
 Twelfth Night, by Jan Steen ; Interior, by Bassen and Polernberg ; the Nativity, by A. Werf ; Travellers 
 by I. Ostade ; Landscape, by Ruysdael ; Moses treading on Pharaoh's Crown, by N. Poussin ; Gulliver 
 amongst the Houyhnhnms, by Gilpin; Four Cuyps, small but excellent; Dutch Courtship, by A. 
 Brouwer ; Little Girl, by Rembrandt ; the Pont Nenf at Paris, by P. Wouvermans ; Pair of Landscapes, 
 by Salvator Rosa ; the Death of Hippolytus, study by Rubens ; River View, by Van der Capella ; Sabine 
 Mountain City, by G. Poussin ; the Tribute Money, by Sir G. Hayter; Village Fete, by Teniers (por- 
 traits) ; Going out Hawking, and Landscape and Cattle, by Paul Potter ; Landscape, by A. and S. 
 Both ; Heads in grisaille, by Vandyke ; Dead Christ, by Guercino ; Sunset, Claude. 
 
 BEKNAL, RALPH, Esq., No. 93, Eaton-square. Here Mr. Bernal assembled his rare 
 collection of Works of Art, including ancient Jewellery, Armour and Arms, Seals and 
 Rings, Medals, Bronzes, Carvings, Clocks and Watches, Enamels, Pottery and Porce- 
 lain, Glass, Pictures, Plate and Furniture, the sale of which by auction at the house 
 occupied 32 days, and realized 61.964J. 11*. 3d. The books and prints, seven days, 
 6587/. 2s. 6d. Thirty-nine days, 68,5512. 13s. Qd. 
 
 BRIDGEWATER HOUSE (Earl of Ellesmere), on the east side of the Green Park, adjoins 
 Spencer House, and has its south or entrance front in Cleveland-row, named from that 
 " beautiful fury," Barbara Duchess of Cleveland, to whom Charles II. presented Berk- 
 shire House, which formerly stood here. The new mansion, designed by Sir Charles 
 Barry, R. A., is almost a square : south front 142 feet 6 inches ; west 122 feet. The 
 elevations and details are mostly from palaces of Rome and Venice ; the chimney -shafts 
 form architectural features ; the main cornice is richly carved with flowers, and the 
 second-floor string-course, a folded ribbon, is very picturesque. The fenestration is 
 very characteristic : the principal windows have arched pediments, each filled with 
 arabesque foliage, and a shield with the monogram of E E entwined, dos-a-dos; in the 
 panel beneath is the Bridgewater motto " Sic donee j" the first-floor window-dressings 
 have elegant festoons of fruit and foliage; and the balustrade is surmounted with 
 sculpture. The entrance-porch on the south is inscribed, " Restauratum 1849 j" and 
 the keystone of the arched doorway bears a lion rampant, the crest of the Earl of 
 Ellesmere. The picture-gallery, on the north side, is the height of the two floors, 110 
 feet long, and has a separate entrance for the public : it is lighted by glazed panels in 
 the coved ceiling, at night, from burners outside.
 
 MANSIONS. 
 
 private collection in England : from the time of Raphael, the series is unequalled ; and in the Caracci 
 school it is without rival. Among the 305 pictures are 4 by Raphael, 5 Titian, 7 A. Caracci, 5 L. 
 
 BUCKINGHAM HOUSE, Pall Mall, built by Soane, R.A., for the Duke of Buckingham, 
 has been purchased by the Government for the office of the Minister-at-War, thus placing ^ 
 the War-office very near to the Ordnance-office. H*\ 
 
 BUBLINGTON HOUSE, No. 49, Piccadilly, was originally built for Richard Boyle, 
 second Earl of Burlington, by Sir John Denham, Surveyor of the Works to Charles II. 
 Horace Walpole has given currency to the story that Lord Burlington, " when asked 
 why he built his house so far out of town, replied, because he was determined to have 
 no building beyond him." A similar anecdote, however, is told of Peterborough House, 
 jMilbank ; Northumberland House ; and of other houses on the verge of the spreading 
 town; and it could not have been said with truth of Burlington House, because 
 Clarendon House and Berkeley House were being built to the west of it at the very 
 same time. The three houses just named are thus mentioned by Pepys : 
 
 20th Feb. 1661-5. Next that (Lord Clarendon's) is my Lord Barkeley beginning another on one 
 side, and Sir J. Denham on the other. 
 
 28th Sept. 1668. Thence to my Lord Burlington's house, the first time I ever was there, it being 
 the house built by Sir John Denham, next to Clarendon-house. 
 
 The site was previously occupied by a farmstead. The house built by Denham was 
 plain and well-proportioned, without any architectural display. A print by Kipp shows 
 this house in the year 1700, with its quaint gardens, and beyond them the country, 
 now covered by Regent-street and Portland-place ; the court-yard is enclosed by a wall 
 of moderate height, in front of which are planted large trees ; and the carriage entrance 
 is through two plain piers. Lord Burlington, the architect, added a new Portland 
 stone front to the mansion ; and a grand colonnade, borrowed from a palace by Palladio, 
 at Vicenza. In the centre of the wall was built, in place of Denham's plain gateway, 
 an archway of triumphal design ; and there are two semicircular side entrances. Horace 
 Walpole was in Italy when these embellishments were completed, and he thus tells 
 their impression upon him after his return : " As we have few samples of architecture 
 more antique and imposing than that colonnade, I cannot help mentioning the effect it 
 had upon myself. I had not only never seen it, but had never heard of it, at least 
 with any attention, when soon after my return from Italy, I was invited to a ball at 
 Burlington-house. As I passed under the gate by night, it could not strike me. At 
 daybreak, looking out of the window to see the sun rise, I was surprised with the 
 vision of the colonnade that fronted me. It seemed one of those edifices in fairy tales 
 that are raised by genii in a night-time." 
 
 The Doric colonnade and gateway are attributed to Colin Campbell, an architect of 
 some skill, employed by Lord Burlington, who, when the designs were made, was but 
 twenty-three years of age : still they were claimed for his Lordship, though he is not 
 known to have urged his own right. Later in life he designed many architectural 
 works which render the eulogy of Pope iti his fourth " Moral Essay " the Epistle on 
 the Use of Riches which he had addressed to the Earl of Burlington, by no means 
 exaggerated : 
 
 " You, too, proceed ! make falling arts your care ; 
 
 Erect new wonders, and the old repair ; 
 
 Jones and Palladio to themselves restore, 
 
 And be whate'er Vitruvius was before."
 
 546 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 In Burlington House the Earl delighted to assemble the leading artists and men of 
 taste of his time ; poets and philosophers the learned, the witty, and the wise. Kent, 
 the architect and landscape-gardener, had apartments in the mansion, where he re- 
 mained until his death, in 1748. Here Handel resided with the Earl for three years ; 
 and here Pope, Arbuthnot, and Gay, often met. The latter poet, in his Trivia, after 
 lamenting the disappearance of the famed structures and stately piles in the Strand, 
 thus refers to the Piccadilly mansion : 
 
 " Yet Burlington's fair palace still remains: 
 Beauty within, without proportion reigns. 
 Beneath his eye declining art revives, 
 The wall with animated pictures lives ; 
 Here Handel strikes the string the melting strain 
 Transports the soul, and thrills through every vein ; 
 There oft I enter (but with cleaner shoes), 
 For Burlington's beloved by every Muse." 
 
 Sir William Chambers has described the mansion as one of the finest pieces of archi- 
 tecture in Europe, " behind an old brick wall in Piccadilly." 
 
 " The interior," says Pennant, " built on the models of Palladio, and adapted more 
 to the climate of Lombardy, and to the banks of the Adige or the Brenta, than to the 
 Thames, is gloomy and destitute of gaiety and cheerfulness." Lord Burlington con- 
 verted " Ten- Acres Field," at the back of his gardens, into a little town, bounded by 
 Bond-street and Swallow-street ; and in 1719 he sold a piece of ground in Boyle-street 
 for a school-house, which he designed for the trustees. 
 
 Lord Burlington died in 1753, when the title became extinct, and Burlington House 
 passed to the Duke of Devonshire. Several alterations were made in the interior by 
 Ware. The Duke of Portland, Prime Minister to George III., died in this mansion 
 in 1809, a few days after he had resigned the seals of office. In the western wing 
 were temporarily deposited the Elgin Marbles, before they were removed to the British 
 Museum. In 1814, White's Club gave here to the Allied Sovereigns, then in England, 
 a grand ball, which cost 9849. 
 
 The lease expired in 1809, and there was some talk of taking the mansion down, 
 when a renewal was obtained by Lord George Cavendish (afterwards Earl of Burling- 
 ton), son of William, fourth Duke of Devonshire, and grandson of the architect. 
 Lord George Cavendish repaired all those portions of the edifice erected by Lord 
 Burlington ; and by raising the Venetian windows of the south front, completed the 
 Earl's design for this facade. Lord George Cavendish converted the riding-house and 
 stables on the east side of the court-yard into a dwelling, as an appendage to the 
 mansion, and built other stables behind the screen-wall. His Lordship also restored the 
 terrace and terrace-steps in the garden; and converted a narrow slip of ground on the 
 west side of the house and garden into the " Burlington Arcade," built by Ware, in 
 1819 : from the rental of which the Cavendish family are said to have derived but 
 4000J. a year, although the actual produce (from sub-leases) is stated to amount to 8640Z. 
 On the east side of the gardens is the high range of buildings called " The Albany ;" 
 but all its windows are shut out from view of the gardens. 
 
 The state apartments of Burlington House are on the first floor. Proceeding east- 
 ward from the great staircase, they form a suite of six rooms, richly ornamented and 
 
 | gilt. The ceiling of the saloon was painted by Sir James Thornhill. The great stair- 
 
 : case was painted for the Earl of Burlington by Marco Rico and his uncle Sebastian ; 
 the same artists painted the ceilings of the state dining-room, and the south-east ante- 
 
 c room to the great drawing-room. Altogether, Burlington House merited much of the 
 praise applied to it in 1826 that it was " the only town residence really fit for a 
 
 ' British nobleman ;" but since that period some costly additions have been made to the 
 mansions of the metropolis. The edifice and grounds are said to occupy about eight 
 acres. The south front of the house is 130 feet in extent, and the height is 48 feet. 
 A ground-plan is given in Britton's Public Buildings of London. 
 
 The entrance archway may be said to have considerable pretensions to grandeur. It 
 has a lofty pediment, flanked by the supporters of the Burlington arms, and supported 
 by four rusticated columns, coupled. It is commemorated by Hogarth in a caricatura 
 print (1731), inscribed " The Man of Taste," containing a view of Burlington Gate :
 
 MANSIONS. 547 
 
 on the summit is Kent (served by Lord Burlington as a labourer), flourishing his 
 palette and pencils over Michael Angelo and Raphael : lower down is Pope white- 
 washing the front, and bespattering the Duke of Chandos in the street. Ralph refers 
 to the front as " the most expensive wall in England : the height wonderfully pro- 
 portioned to the length, and the decorations both simple and magnificent : the grand 
 entrance is elegant and beautiful : and, by covering the house entirely from the eye, 
 gives pleasure and surprise, at the opening of the whole front with the area before it 
 at once." Any passenger who has seen the mansion through the great gateway from 
 the footpath may appreciate the above effect. 
 
 Burlington House, with its gardens, was purchased by Government, in 1854, for 
 140,OOOZ. The extent of the grounds is about 3^ acres. The building is now occet- 
 pied by the Royal Society, the Senate of the University of London, the Geographical 
 Society, the Linnean Society, and the Chemical Society. No income is derived from 
 the property ; the annual outgoings and cost of maintaining it average 470Z. 
 
 On the north side of the gardens -was commenced in 1866, a building for the Uni- 
 versity of London, with an entrance from the street we call Burlington Gardens. 
 
 CAMBRIDGE HOUSE, 94, Piccadilly the site once occupied by an inn has been 
 known by the names of Egremont, Cholmondeley, and Cambridge House, from the 
 names of its various tenants. Here died July 8th, 1850, Adolphus, Duke of Cam- 
 bridge, youngest son of George III., born 1774. During the Cambridge occupation, 
 Her Majesty was leaving the house, when she was assaulted by the last of the imbeciles 
 who hoped to become celebrated by such a guilty proceeding. 
 
 One of its early noble tenants used to take his chop and spend his evening at " the Glo'ster Coffee 
 House," when his lady had a rout. " He didn't care for such things," he said, " and liked to be quiet." 
 The third Earl Cholmondeley acquired Houghton by marrying Sir Robert Walpole's only legitimate 
 daughter. The son of the first Marquis Cholmondeley (Lord Malpas) embraced the Roman Catholic 
 firith, was converted from his conversion by the mother of the lady whom he afterwards married, and 
 subsequently Jeft the Established Church for the Wesleyan connexion. Athenaeum. 
 
 After the death of the Duke of Cambridge, this mansion was the town residence of 
 Viscount Palmerston ; from hence his Lordship was buried in Westminster Abbey, 
 October 27, 1865. Cambridge House is now the Naval and Military Club House. 
 
 CHESTERFIELD HOUSE (the Earl of Chesterfield), South Audley-street, was built by 
 Ware, 1749, for Philip, fourth Earl, who describes the boudoir as " the gayest and 
 most cheerful room in England," and the library "the finest room in London;" and 
 they remain xmsurpassed. The columns of the screen facing the court-yard, and the 
 superb marble staircase (each step a single block twenty feet long), are from Canons 
 (Duke of Chandos's) ; and the gilt hall-lantern, for eighteen candles, from Houghton 
 (Sir Robert Walpole's). In the library, above the bookcases, are portraits cf eminent 
 authors contemporary with the fourth Earl of Chesterfield, who wrote here his cele- 
 brated Letters to his Son. Under the cornice of the room, extending all round in 
 capitals twelve inches high, are these lines from Horace : 
 
 NUNC'VETBEUM'lIBBIS'inTNC'SOMIfO'EriirEBTIBtfS'HOBIS. 
 DUCBEB'SOLICIT^'JUCUIfDA'OBLlVIA'VII3B. 
 
 Throughout the room are busts of ancient orators, besides vases and bronzes and 
 modern statuettes. The windows look upon the finest private garden in London, and 
 in the lofty trees are a few rooks. 
 
 In that very pleasant table-book, Soft and Guest, by Mr. Kirwan, we are reminded that the great 
 Lord Chesterfield was the first nobleman who made the most strenuous efforts to introduce French 
 cookery. He engaged as his cook La Chapelle, a descendant of the famous cook of Louis XIV. La 
 CUapefle published, in 1733, a treatise on Cookery, in three volumes, which is now rarely met with. 
 Iiike Alexis Soyer's books, La Chapelle's Modern Cook was printed for the author : it was sold by Nicho- 
 las Provost, a Frenchman, over against Southampton-street, in the Strand. About this period Chester- 
 field was Lord Steward of the Household to George II. His dinners and suppers were deemed perfec- 
 tion ; and these entertainments were among the few items in which his expenditure was liberal. Lord 
 Chesterfield lived till 1773 ; and, says Mr. Kirwan, " I more than once heard the late Earl of Essex say, 
 more than thirty years ago, at Brooks's Club, that he remembered, as a boy of fourteen or fifteen, seeing 
 the Earl seated "on a rustic seat outside the courtyard of his house in May Fair. Chesterfield House was, 
 ninety-one years ago, at the very extremity of London, and all beyond it was an expanse of green 
 fields." 
 
 HOUSE, on the east side of Stable-yard, St. James's Palace, was built for 
 
 jr jr 2
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the Duke of Clarence, afterwards King William IV. : it has a handsome portico in two 
 stories, the lower Doric, and the upper Corinthian. Here resided the Duchess of" Kent. 
 The mansion is now the town residence of Prince Alfred. 
 
 DE GEET, EAKL, No. 4, St. James's-square, possesses a choice gallery of pictures, 
 including portraits, mostly whole-lengths, by Vandyke ; " Titian's Daughter " holding 
 a casket ; a pair of landscapes by Claude ; a fine picture by Salvator Rosa ; and a few 
 examples of the Dutch school. 
 
 DEVONSHIRE HOUSE (Duke of Devonshire), Piccadilly, occupies the site of Berkeley 
 House, formerly " Hay Hill Farm :" it was built by William Kent for the third 
 Duke of Devonshire, at the cost o^ 20,OOOZ., including 1000Z. for the design. It was 
 also called Stratton House. 
 
 Berkeley House was built about 1665 for John, Lord Berkeley and Stratton, and is stated by Evelyn 
 to have cost " neere 30,0001. :" it was remarkable for its great number of chimneys, noble state-rooms, 
 cedar staircase, the walls painted by Laguerre, and gardens " incomparable by reason of the inequalities 
 
 Duke of Devonshire purchased the mansion in 1697; and March 31, he entertained King William III. 
 at dinner there. The duke died here in 1701 : it was destroyed, October 16, 1733, by fire, through the 
 boiling over of a glue-pot while the workmen were at breakfast ; the house was entirely consumed, but 
 the library, pictures, medals, and other curiosities were saved. 
 
 " Lord Pembroke (Shakspeare" Lord Pembroke), Donne, Waller, Denham, and Dryden read their 
 verses here. Devonshire House, towards the close of the last century, was famous as the head-quarters 
 of Whig politics, and for the fascinations of its beautiful Duchess, whose verses on William Tell pro- 
 duced a burst of admiration from Coleridge : 
 
 ' Oh, lady, nurs'd in point) and pleasure, 
 Where learnt you that heroic measure ?' 
 
 She learnt it from her race (the Spencers); from their family tutor, Sir William Jones; and from her 
 own cordial nature." Leigh Hunt. 
 
 Devonshire House has an unpretending exterior, with an ill-matched portico : the 
 old entrance, by a double flight of steps, was removed in 1840 ; and in the rear of the 
 house has been erected a state staircase, with white scagliola walls, marble stair, gilt- 
 brass balustrades, and glass hand-rail. The whole interior was re-decorated for William 
 Spencer, sixth Duke of Devonshire, except a small room, blue and silver, designed by 
 the celebrated Duchess. The Grand Saloon, originally the vestibule, is superbly deco- 
 rated and painted in the rich style of Le Brun, and hung with Lyons brocade-silk ; 
 portraits over the doors, &c. The Ball-room, white and gold, is hung with French silk 
 brocatelle, blue and gold, and a few magnificent pictures. In this superb room took 
 place the first amateur performance of Sir Edward Bulwer Lytton's comedy of Not so 
 Sad as we Seem, for the benefit of the Guild of Literature and Art, before Her Majesty 
 and Prince Albert, May 16, 1851. The grounds of Devonshire House are a fine 
 specimen of town landscape-gardening. Upon the gate-piers in Piccadilly are gar- 
 landed vases, gracefully sculptured. Among the pictures are Dohson's portrait of Sir 
 Thomas Browne ; Lord Burlington, the architect, by . Kneller ; and Lord Richard 
 Cavendish, by Reynolds. In a glass-case are " the Devonshire Gems,'' 564 cut stones 
 and medals. Here is the renowned Libra di Verita, in which Claude Lorraine made 
 drawings of all the pictures he ever executed : they number about 200, and on the 
 back of each is Claude's monogram, the place for which the picture was painted, usually 
 the person ordering it, and the year, the " Claudio fecit" never wanting. By reference to 
 this volume, the authenticity of reputed Claudes may be tested ; hence it is called " the 
 Book of Truth ;" it is well known by Earlom's engravings. Upon the back of the first 
 drawing is inscribed, in Claude's own handwriting. 
 
 " Audi 10 dagosto 1677. Ce livre Aupartien a moy que je faiot durant iria vie. Claudio Gillee, dit le 
 Loraine. A Roma ce 23 Aos. 1680." 
 
 Among the bibliographical rarities are "the Kemble Plays," and other old English 
 plays, the richest collection in the world, annotated by the Duke of Devonshire ; also, a 
 large collection of playbills ; early editions of Shakspeare ; designs, by Inigo Jones, for 
 buildings, sketches from pictures, costumes for characters in masques, scenery, &c. Tho 
 exquisite taste and knowledge displayed by the late Duke of Devonshire in collecting 
 these valuable treasures in art and literature have been respected by the present Duke 
 in preserving so valuable a collection intact.
 
 MANSIONS. 
 
 DORCHESTER HOUSE (Mr. R. S. Holford), Park-lane, built by Lewis Vulliamy, 
 1851-3 : a parallelogram, nearly as large as Bridgewater House, faced with Portland- 
 stone ; the principal cornice and frieze richly carved by C. H. Smith ; the chief pro- 
 jecting stones are each 8 feet 4 inches square j the external walls are 3 feet 10 inches 
 thick. The grand staircase is of marble. The mansion occupies the site of old Dor- 
 chester House, in which died the Marquis of Hertford, 1842. 
 
 fry + " Holford's fine collection of pictures was temporarily placed in 
 
 *h jf y & ' Lawrence's), in Russell-square. The collection includes portraits 
 
 f 4^ ApjjM iellini, S. del Piombo, Titian, and Tintoretto ; two of the famous 
 
 Rounrl Hnnc t J\G *^ .ieo), from the Giustiniani Palace; among the Dutch pictures is a 
 
 lOUSe. jQMt^* ima; here are exquisite small pictures by Murillo, Greuze, and 
 
 IVCr House, \Vhi1ehan *he offjpp'vermans, Paul Potter, C.du Jardin, W.Vandervelde;Giorgione, 
 
 ily and Saints, by Andrea del Sarto; Holy Family and St. John, 
 beCretaiy, Which JS' Claude; Rubens' masterly sketches of his Entry of Henry IV. 
 
 now having the domed roof of its f the Virgin (Antwerp)> ihe coUection ma y be seen b ? recom - 
 ble circular entrance-hall re- 
 
 :cism of Lord C North"s ( J vl'' and was builfc by Payne for Sir Matthew Feather - 
 
 S Windness so ^ ^ Viscount Melbourne, who sold it to the Duke of 
 
 told 'that the P ' t picturesque Ionic portico and the domed circular hall ; 
 
 S \va S havin c t idence of the Prince of Wales, being distinguished for its 
 
 rs erected at CarTton Ho id wittidsm thus told ^ Southey mEspriella't Letters. 
 
 the Duke of York had added this 3 Lord North after he had tecome blind ' in the latter 
 
 d hall to York House where Theu the Duke of York> Jt sbould seem> has bcen sent 
 
 he professed concern that one ince f Wales is put ^ the pillory " 
 
 was put in the round house ' e j)> Park-lane, contains a fine collection of 130 pictures, 
 the other in the pillory. schools to their source. 
 
 MolKt/M ii iphael's earliest works, and the Last Judgment, by Fiesole, both 
 
 figures of Saints, by Raphael, in tempera ; the Virgin and Child, 
 
 scph, by Francia; Sta. Caterina, by Lo Spagna; two figures of 
 
 Sequently ex- Perugino ; Virgin and Child, enthroned, by A. Dasisi ; alter-piece 
 
 Uses With the first Lord del Vaga; altar-piece, Adorationof the Shepherds, by B.Peruzzi; 
 
 OUrne (father Of Oueen Vif ^ tne Ma odalen, by Carlo Dolce ; four Illuminations by Andrea 
 
 **" >y L. Caracci; a seated Cardinal, by Guercino ; curious specimens 
 erj, WJttO had a mansion lli; two Colossal Heads, by Correggio, and a reputed replica of his 
 
 IS, and "iork House was for v>re also several pieces of antique SculptHro; and a seated Venus, 
 
 r years known as Melbourne ^ k Slave> by Hiram Powers - 
 
 'i Cambridge), Piccadilly, corner of Park -lane, was pre- 
 '6 the brilliant and attractive 3re were deposited the Elgin Marbles. Lord Byron 
 
 f the first Lord held her gay i" a stone-shop," and 
 JS. and received her distin- [nerai mart 
 
 Cd admirers. Her SOn'S Wife ' J blocks of art." Englih Bard* and Scotch Reviewers. 
 
 ray ward Lady Caroline Lamb] '< to Burlington House, and to the British Museum in 
 
 :re, and Lord Byron was a archased by the late Duke of Gloucester, on his mar- 
 
 int visitor. Both these ladies In the state drawing-room is a needlework carpet, 
 
 ucester upon her birth-day, by 8-1 ladies of the aristo- 
 
 sequently the Second Lord Mel- mipartment. The Duchess died here April 30, 1857, 
 ie parted With the house to Lord liew, the Duke of Cambridge, the unexpired lease of 
 . better known as the Whig poll 
 
 . Welbore Ellis, and its name rw L t \ TT r- t i 
 
 of Westminster), Upper Grosvenor-street, has a majr- 
 >nwe more changed, to Dover i *. -,-i^f ^ i ji . 
 
 ! screen, Roman-Doric : it is 110 feet long, and has two 
 
 iculptured with the Grosvenor arms, and panels of the 
 
 *^6irr seasons aboVU Hie 1 root-entrances ; between the columns are massive candelabra, 
 which, with the metal gates, are composed of demi- figures, rich foliage, fruit and flowers, 
 and armorial designs. The whole screen is picturesque and elegant, and was completed 
 in 1842 by T. Cundy, the architect of the western wing of the mansion (the Picture- 
 gallery) in Park-lane : the latter consists of a Corinthian colonnade, with six statues 
 and an attic, after the manner of Trajan's Forum at Rome ; on the acroteria are 
 vases and a balustrade, and between the columns are rich festoons of fruit and flowers ;
 
 >fo. House. 
 
 ssing by Lord Derby's new house 
 ford Place I noticed yesterday that the 
 , white- hoarding which has entirely 
 ned it from view during the past six or 
 , months is down at last. They say the 
 i will be renamed, and will be known in 
 future as Derby House. * This does not 
 ,er miifih ' R-WMe" ame of the builder 
 
 OF LONDON. 
 
 I., including 
 
 iord Berkeley 
 or its great m 
 gardens " incc 
 fes on the ten 
 tier leaving W 
 at 7501., stol 
 ; and March 
 as destroyed, 
 it breakfast; 
 ' r ere saved. 
 , Donne, Wi 
 if the last cen 
 lutiful Duche 
 
 V>mt> and pie 
 ft heroic mea 
 ieir family tu 
 
 .er IILUCII, as ''iiit? ua.ii? vi * 
 
 be kept green in Stratford Place itself. 
 Jae Edward Stratford, the second Earl of 
 orough, who built this fine house in 1775, 
 who with others was responsible for 
 building of ^ cZ de sac of 
 
 h it forma thelle An nation. The Duke 
 it. Albanfi**^rlfce Estdrhazy, and many 
 distingun^df persona have lived in 
 _ice thatVdate. The last 
 wnhLMnrd Colebrooke. So sop a 
 
 builders took chargejfi the 
 jbegan to destroy its olft^Aa\aiic 
 'it is a Wy^ig Iwuse. tl is now 
 T than ifc ^sXlyklljF-obably be 
 ly for occupation \ef\re ^ e season is in 
 swing. There onoeVroqd a pillar in Strat- 
 l Place commemorating the nava^ victories 
 Ireat Britain, but its foundations gave f exterior, w 
 y inappropriately in the year of Trafalgar, b removed 
 re are still two fascinating little watch- th white sc 
 n's boxes on either side of the entrance in whole interi 
 
 brd-etreet. ** s 1 } 
 
 . u.m ^uii^n, originally 
 
 ^noed and painted in the rich style of Le Brun, and 
 portraits over the doors, &c. The Ball-room, white an? 
 brocatelle, blue and gold, and a few magnificent pictui 
 place the first amateur performance of Sir Edward Bu 
 Sad as we Seem, for the benefit of the Guild of Literate 
 and Prince Albert, May 16, 1851. The grounds of 
 specimen of town landscape-gardening. Upon the gs 
 landed vases, gracefully sculptured. Among the pictur 
 Thomas Browne; Lord Burlington, the architect, b 
 Cavendish, by Reynolds. In a glass-case are " the De 
 and medals. Here is the renowned Libra di Verita, i 
 drawings of all the pictures he ever executed : they 
 back of each is Claude's monogram, the place for which 
 the person ordering it, and the year, the " Claudio fecit" 
 this volume, the authenticity of reputed Claudes may b 
 Book of Truth;" it is well known by Earlom's engravin 
 drawing is inscribed, in Claude's own handwriting. 
 
 " Audi 10 dagosto 1677. Ce livre Anpartien a moy que je faict 
 Loraine. A Roma ce 23 Aos. 1680." 
 
 "illiam IV. : it has a handsome portico in two ' 
 fcnthian. Here resided the Duchess of Kent. 
 I 'rince Alfred. 
 
 are, possesses a choice gallery of pictures, 
 y Vandyke ; " Titian's Daughter " holding 
 i fine picture by Salvator Rosa ; and a few 
 
 jre), Piccadil 
 was built 1 
 
 "HUMILIATED" BRIE 
 
 All sorts of people are trying 
 heir views incorporated in tl 
 Prayer-book. Among them 
 League of the Church W 
 which, if it succeeds in its*< 
 will make drastic alterations 
 Marriage Service. 
 
 The President is Miss A. 
 Royden. Briefly, the League 
 to a bridegroom undertaking 
 dow" his wife with all his ' 
 goods, n bride's promise to * 
 her husband, and the cerem 
 " giving away " the bride. 
 " Untrue " Words. 
 
 A determined attempt to 
 recognition of these " reforms 
 be made when the proposals 
 revision of the Prayer-book * 
 cussed in the National Assei 
 July. 
 
 Why these alterations i 
 manded was explained to a 
 reporter to-day by the Seen 
 the League, Miss E. M Chanc 
 
 The marriage service in its 
 form, she said, "compels bo 
 and bridegroom to take wor 
 their lips which are not true.' 
 
 " It is appalling that at on 
 most solemn moments of he 
 woman should be obliged to 
 vow which she has no intei 
 keeping " 
 
 " Obeying" Quite Mode 
 
 There was no v^w of ol 
 until the fourteenth centurj 
 
 Among the bibliographical rarities are "the Kemble -n a i^ HHBHH . K iiM^^ H 
 plays, the richest collection in the world, annotated by the Duke of Devonshire ; also, a 
 large collection of playbills ; early editions of Shakspeare ; designs, by Inigo Jones, for 
 buildings, sketches from pictures, costumes for characters in masques, scenery, &c. The 
 exquisite taste and knowledge displayed by the late Duke of Devonshire in collecting 
 these valuable treasures in art and literature have been respected by the present Duke 
 in preserving so valuable a collection intact.
 
 MANSIONS. 549 
 
 DORCHESTER HOUSE (Mr. R. S. Holford), Park-lane, built by Lewis Vulliamy, 
 1851-3 : a parallelogram, nearly as large as Bridgewater House, faced with Portland- 
 stone ; the principal cornice and frieze richly carved by C. H. Smith ; the chief pro- 
 jecting stones are each 8 feet 4 inches square ; the external walls are 3 feet 10 inches 
 thick. The grand staircase is of marble. The mansion occupies the site of old Dor- 
 chester House, in which died the Marquis of Hertford, 1842. 
 
 "While this mansion was building, Mr. Hertford's fine collection of pictures was temporarily placed in 
 the house No. 65 (formerly Sir Thomas Lawrence's), in Russell-square. The collection includes portraits 
 by Velasquez, Vandyke, Dosso Dossi, Bellini, S. del Piombo, Titian, and Tintoretto ; two of the famous 
 Caracci series (by Agostino and Ludovico), from the Giustiniani Palace; among the Dutch pictures is a 
 long view of Ltort, and a large Hobbema; here are exquisite small pictures by Murillo, Greuze, and 
 others; and fine works by Teniers, Wouvermans, Paul Potter, C. du Jardin, W. Vandervelde; Giorgione, 
 Bonifazio, Fra Bartolomeo ; Holy Family and Saints, by Andrea del Sarto; Holy Family and St. John, 
 by Gaudenzio di Ferrara; Evening, by Claude; Rubens' masterly sketches of his Entry of Henry IV. 
 (Luxembourg) ; and the Assumption of the Virgin (Antwerp). The collection may be seen by recom- 
 mendation of known artists or amateurs. 
 
 DOVER HOUSE (Lady Clifden), Whitehall, opposite the Banqueting House, has a 
 very tasteful and classical fa9ade, and was built by Payne for Sir Matthew Feather- 
 stonhaugh. It was subsequently sold to Viscount Melbourne, who sold it to the Duke of 
 York, for whom Holland added a picturesque Ionic portico and the domed circular hall j 
 which, and Carlton House, the residence of the Prince of Wales, being distinguished for its 
 screen of columns, gave rise to a witticism thus told by Southey in Espriella's Letters. 
 The buildings being described to Lord North after he had become blind, in the latter 
 part of his life, he remarked, " Then the Duke of York, it should seem, has been sent 
 to the Round House, and the Prince of Wales is put in the pillory." 
 
 DUDLEY HOUSE (Earl of Dudley), Park-lane, contains a fine collection of 130 pictures, 
 tracing the Italian and Flemish schools to their source. 
 
 Here are the Crucifixion, one of Raphael's earliest works, and the Last Judgment, by Fiesole, both 
 from Cardinal Fesch's Gallery ; small figures of Saints, by Raphael, in tempera; the Virgin and Child, 
 and the Virgin, Infant Christ, and Joseph, by Franeia; Sta. Caterina, by Lo Spagna; two figures of 
 Saints, in pen-and-ink and tempera, by Perugino ; Virgin and Child, enthroned, by A. Dasisi ; altar-piece 
 of Saints and Infant Christ, by Pierino del Vaga; altar-piece, Adoration of the Shepherds, by B. Peruzzi ; 
 the Death of Abel, by Guido; Head of the Magdalen, by Carlo Dolce; four Illuminations by Andrea 
 Mantegna; Christ bearing his Cross, by L. Caracci; a seated Cardinal, by Guercino ; curious specimens 
 of the Venetian School, by Carlo Crivelli ; two Colossal Heads, by Correggio, and a reputed replica of his 
 Magdalen ; the three Marys, and Dead Christ, by Albert Durer; Celebration of the Mass, by Van Eyck; 
 St. Peter, by Spa^noletto ; the Burgomaster, by Rembrandt (half-length), frou the Stowe Collection ; 
 the Mocking of Christ, by Teniers ; Landscape, by Gaspar Poussin ; Venetian l> -ew, very fine, by Cana- 
 letti; Shipwreck, by Vernet, &c. Here are also several pieces of antique Sculpture; and a seated Venus, 
 by Canova; and a duplicate of the Greek Slave, by Hiram Powers. 
 
 GLOUCESTER HOUSE (Duke of Cambridge), Piccadilly, corner of Park -lane, was pre- 
 vio'usly the Earl of Elgin's. Here were deposited the Elgin Marbles. Lord Byron 
 sarcastically called Elgin House " a stone-shop," and 
 
 " General mart 
 For all the mutilated blocks of art." English Bardt and Scotch Reviewers. 
 
 The Marbles were next removed to Burlington House, and to the British Museum in 
 1816. Gloucester House was purchased by the late Duke of Gloucester, on his mar- 
 riage with the Princess Mary. In the state drawing-room is a needlework carpet, 
 presented to the Duchess of Gloucester upon her birth-day, by 84 ladies of the aristo- 
 cracy, each having worked a compartment. The Duchess died here April 30, 1857, 
 having bequeathed to her nephew, the Duke of Cambridge, the unexpired lease of 
 Gloucester House. 
 
 GROSVENOE HOUSE (Marquis of Westminster), Upper Grosvenor-street, has a mag- 
 nificent open stone colonnade or screen, Roman-Doric : it is 110 feet long, and has two 
 carriage-ways, with pediments sculptured with the Grosvenor arms, and panels of the 
 four Seasons above the foot-entrances; between the columns are massive candelabra, 
 which, with the metal gates, are composed of demi- figures, rich foliage, fruit and flowers, 
 and armorial designs. The whole screen is picturesque and elegant, and was completed 
 in 1842 by T. Cundy, the architect of the western wing of the mansion (the Picture- 
 gallery) in Park-lane : the latter consists of a Corinthian colonnade, with six statues 
 and an attic, after the manner of Trajan's Forum at Rome ; on the acroteria are 
 vases and a balustrade, and between the column's are rich festoons of fruit and flowers;
 
 550 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the whole is grand and architectural. Here is the celebrated " Grosvenor Gallery," 
 commenced by Richard, first Earl Grosvenor, by the purchase of Mr. Agar's pictures 
 for 30,000 guineas ; increased by his son, and grandson, the present noble owner, to 
 200 paintings, including : 
 
 Eaphael, 5; Murillo, 3; Velasquez, 2; Titian, 3; Paul Veronese, 3 ; Guido, 5; Salvator Rosa, 4; 
 Claude, 10; N. and G. Poussin, 7; Rembrandt,?; Rubens, 11; Vandyke, 2; Hobbema, 2; Cuyp, 4; 
 Snyders, 2; Terriers, 3; West, 5; Hogarth, 3; Gainsborough, 3 ; with specimens of Lebrun, Paul Potter, 
 Gerard Douw, Van Hujsum, Vandervelde, Wouvermans, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and Wilson ; Perugino^ 
 Bellini, Giulio Romano, and Sasso Ferrato : Correggio, Parmegiano, L. da Vinci, &c. 
 
 Among the most celebrated are the four colossal pictures by Rubens, painted in Spain in 1629, the 
 Israelites gathering Manna, Abraham and Melchisedek, the Four Evangelists, and the Fathers of tha 
 Church, from the convent of Loeches, near Madrid, purchased for 10,0001. ; Cattle and Landscape, by 
 Paul Potter, a miracle of art: Gentleman holding a Hawk, and Lady with Fan, by Rembrandt, two of 
 the finest portraits ever painted ; Mrs. Siddons as the Tragic Muse, Sir Joshua Reynolds's masterpiece, 
 cost 17601. In the ante-room ia a very large painting, by Canaletti, of a grand Bull-fight in St. Mark's 
 Place, Venice, in 1740, with many thousand figures. 
 
 Among the rarities is a triptych panel-picture by Memmelinck, 15th century: the central compart- 
 ment contains our Saviour, the Virgin Mary, and St. John the Evangelist; the volets, St. John the 
 Baptist, and Mary, the sister of Martha and Lazarus, with the pot of ointment : of most elaborate exe- 
 cution; bought by the Marquis of Westminster in 1845. 
 
 No private gallery in this country exceeds the Grosvenor Gallery in point of variety. The number 
 of pictures in the Bridgewater collection is more than double, the series more complete, and some of 
 them exceed any here in value and variety ; but the fascination of the Claudes, the imposing splendour 
 of the Rubenses, and the interest attached to a number of the English pictures ('Mrs. Siddons,' 'tha 
 Blue Boy,' and ' General Wolfe,' for instance), long contributed to render the Grosvenor Gallery quite aa 
 popular as a resort for the mere amateur, and not less attractive and improving to the student and 
 enthusiast. Mrs. Jameson's Private Gatteriet of Art. 
 
 Among the sculpture is Susanna, life-size, by Pozzi ; Cupid and Psyche, by Sir R. 
 Westmacott, R.A. ; a Faun (antique) ; and busts of Mercury, Apollo, Homer, Paris 
 and Helen, Charles I. and Cromwell, &c. The vases are fine ; and the superb plate 
 includes antique salvers, and a profusion of race-cups, won by the Marquis of Westmin- 
 ster's celebrated stud. The pictures are to be seen only, on a specific day, by admis- 
 sions obtainable by personal acquaintances of, or introduction to, the Marquis of 
 Westminster. 
 
 HARCOUET HOUSE (Duke of Portland), on the west side of Cavendish-square, origi- 
 nally built for Benson, Lord Bingley, and altered from Archer's design, is described by 
 Ralph, in 1734, as '' one of the most singular pieces of architecture about town ; rather 
 like a convent than the residence of a man of quality," resembling a copy of some of 
 Poussin's landscape ornaments : and so it remains to this day. It was originally called 
 Bingley House. The handsome offices in the rear were designed by Ware. 
 
 HERTFORD HOUSE (Marquis of Hertford), No. 105, Piccadilly, was formerly the 
 Pulteney Hotel, where Alexander, Emperor of Russia, and his sister the Duchess of 
 Oldenburg, sojourned in 1814, and where the Duchess of Oldenburg (the Emperor 
 Alexander's sister) introduced Prince Leopold to the Princess Charlotte. The original 
 facade, rich Italian, was by Novosielski, with a Grecian- Doric porch added by Sir 
 Robert Smirke. The mansion was designed for the Earl of Barrymore, but was un- 
 finished at his death ; was first let as an hotel, and then to the late Marquis of Hertford. 
 It was taken down and rebuilt mostly with the same Portland stone, in 1851, when the 
 house was heightened from 57 to 71 feet. The drawing-rooms have a vista of 114 feefc, 
 and the picture-gallery 50 feet, but the mansion remained some years untenanted after 
 its rebuilding. 
 
 The Hertford collection contains chef-d'amvres from the gallery of the King of Holland : Water-mill. 
 Hobbema; Holy Family, Rubens (cost 2478J.) ; Alchemist, Teniers; la Vierge de Fade, A. del Sarto; 
 Vandyke, by himself; Oxen in a Meadow, Paul Potter; several pictures by Cuyp; the Annunciation, by 
 Murillo; Landscape with Herdsman, Claude; his own Portrait, by Rembrandt; Christ giving the Keys 
 to St. Peter, Rubens : and, from the Stowe collection, the Sibyl, by Domenichino ; and the Unmerciful 
 Servant, by Rembrandt (sold for 2300Z.) The Marquis also possesses a fine collection of china, and costly 
 objects of art and vertu. 
 
 HOLDEBNESSE HOUSE (Marquis of Londonderry), No. 16 Park-lane, contains a 
 magnificent Sculpture-gallery, wherein are several works by Cariova and other great 
 sculptors ; Theseus and the Minotaur, from the Fries Gallery at Florence ; the Kneel- 
 ing Cupid, &c. ; full-length portraits of British and Foreign Monarchs of the present 
 century, by Sir Thomas Lawrence ; life-size model of Thomas's Statue of Lord Castle- 
 reagh, the celebrated minister, placed in Westminster Abbey ; and presented to tha
 
 'ANSIONS. 
 
 Nm-MB;-:a 
 
 3FFJV. 
 
 e of Chequers : 
 fifth Birthday. 
 
 VESDAY, NCW-MSER j;, 
 
 An 
 
 tpden House. 
 
 eye is no domestic M-ii'iiv 
 
 Bti 60 ';t-nit,,.:t-L 
 
 tiy d> . ii.>m<-, 
 
 reen-htreot, y/Ji-.-.-r iLe Di>:-h<' 
 er!a:;:l is giving her party '- 
 ; "to mod the Prime Mini-- 
 
 eavM ago that the 
 1 <'/' Sutherland acquired this 
 listing property from the )>ukc 
 tercorn. 
 
 'self, I \vould far ^;ih<:r In < 
 i : i Stafford House- -or Lancaster 
 >e, as it is t'ii.Ued to-day. Jr. is 
 ;y, bif; abJing, and imob- 
 
 Katser's Bust, 
 
 hat I best recall of JIamjj'jcn. 
 ie in recent years i the e<> 
 
 oi' (he rx-Kaiber -v,-ilh a PIT 
 tonc'li ail over it--Yrhif.'h wan pre- 
 3d by WiJhelm to the Duke oi* 
 corn on the ovf-asiori of his ; 
 ieriin officially to aimouu-'-e ihe 
 h ox Queen Victoria. 
 
 . ance ha. 1 ! 
 
 icre .ue; -r by. it would i/e 
 
 _ to k)iO\v vrfiere it is no-.;. 
 
 st, Hu'^pdcii HviUBf ih one 
 
 :,l r/ti::'.-jm mansions v.liOHC 
 
 r'ds seem to liare. been lost. 
 
 i to have a definite 3'o!nu-n- 
 
 vt ith th o Ham pden J'am i iy . O T 
 
 it will have been all Scoi;-!i, \vhat- 
 
 L the Hamilton-;, tlie 
 
 reva--and Mr. Bonar 
 
 . to-moiro\v. 
 
 |s XVIII., and a valuable diamond-hilted sword; 
 trophies, captured by the soldier-Marquis in the 
 
 tst corner of Down-street, Piccadilly, was built 
 under the joint superintendence of M. Dusillion, 
 >n. The fronts are Caen stone, and have panels 
 
 . 2en the windows ; the arrangement of which is 
 ie total height from the street-level to the balus- 
 ed vases) is 62 feet. The entrance-porch in 
 pal window -pediments are sculptured the armo- 
 h the initial H in the very handsome iron railing, 
 iroughout show very careful and elegant draw- 
 ih artists, is beautifully executed. The grand 
 
 . :' the building ; the upper hall is paved with 
 11s are plaster-of- Paris polished, scagliola panels, 
 of, are of cast-iron girders and tile arches. The 
 e principal doors are of oak, carved with the 
 ay-pieces are of pierre-de-tonnerre, panelled with 
 1 metal, with caryatid figures. The stables (for 
 the rear of the mansion. W. Cubitt and Co.> 
 doors, ceilings, stone carvings, mahogany case- 
 30,000?. There are few pictures here, the col- 
 pdene, in Surrey. Among the antiques is Sir 
 made at Naples. The mansion may be seen by 
 ! owner. 
 
 d mansion in Duchess-street, Portland-place, in the deco- 
 taiiui, exemplified the classic principles illustrated in his 
 rnal Decorations, 1805. Thus the suite of apartments 
 naments from scrolls of papyrus and mummy-cases ; the 
 bluish-green, reliered by masses of black and gold. The 
 The Star Room : emblems of Night below : and above, 
 laxruan ; furniture, wreathed figures of the Hours. The 
 >ery; the mantel-piece an Egyptian portico; Egyptian, 
 Icture Gallery : Ionic columns, entablature, and pediment 
 of Apollo, classic tables, pedestals, &c. In four separate 
 :luding two copies of the Barberini or Portland Vase ; the 
 '.e New Gallery, for 100 pictures of the Flemish school, 
 at Grecian design. Mr. Hope died at Duchess-street in 
 e and munificence as the early patron of Chantrey, Flax- 
 
 msdowne), which, with its garden, occupies the 
 mmenced by Robert Adam for the Marquis of 
 d Shelburne, created Marquis of Lansdowne in 
 KM., but the mansion cost Lord Bute 25,OOOZ. 
 
 5session of the secret of the authorship of Junius's Letters, 
 p died in the following week. The " Letters" are believed 
 Lord Shelburne, Colonel Barr^, and Dunning, Lord Ash- 
 ne picture by Sir Joshua Reynolds, in 1784-5, have been 
 >. Possibly, therefore, Junius's Letters were written in 
 ter established, that oxygen was discovered here, Aug. 1, 
 '.helburne. 
 
 collection of sculpture, including about fifty 
 
 ilievi : it was commenced by Gavin Hamilton, 
 
 s Villa. At the foot of the staircase is a noble 
 
 the great dining-room are nine antique statues 
 
 dius, Trajan, and Cicero; also the Sleeping 
 
 he front drawing-room his Venus quitting the 
 
 lin, of a Child holding an alms-dish. In the 
 
 ( . end are life-size statues of Hercules, Marcus 
 
 Juno, an Amazon, Juno standing, Hercules 
 
 H: e two Egyptian black marble statues, found at 
 
 , the busts, reliefs, &c.
 
 550 
 
 CURIOSITIES OF _ NoYEMnKI , 22 im 
 
 the whole is grand and architectural. Here is 
 commenced by Richard, first Earl Grosvenor, h 
 for 30,000 guineas ; increased by his son, and 
 200 paintings, including : 
 
 Raphael, 5; Murillo, 3; Velasquez, 2; Titian, 3; P 
 Claude, 10; N. and G. Poussin, 7; Rembrandt, 7; Rub 
 Snyders, 2; Teniers, 3; West, 5; Hogarth, 3; Gainsborot 
 Gerard Douw, Van Hujsum, Vandervelde, Wouvermans, I 
 Bellini, Giulio Romano, and Sasso Ferrato : Correggio, P 
 
 Among the most celebrated are the four colossal pict 
 Israelites gathering Manna, Abraham and Melchisedek, 
 Church, from the convent of Loeches, near Madrid, pa 
 Paul Potter, a miracle of art : Gentleman holding a Hav 
 the finest portraits ever painted ; Mrs. Siddons as the TJ 
 cost 1760Z. In the ante-room is a very large painting, bj 
 Place, Venice, in 1740, with many thousand figures. 
 
 Among the rarities is a triptych panel-picture by Mi 
 ment contains our Saviour, the Virgin Mary, and St. ! 
 Baptist, and Mary, the sister of Martha and Lazarus, wit 
 cution ; bought by the Marquis of Westminster in 1845. 
 
 No private gallery in this country exceeds the Grosve 
 of pictures in the Bridgewater collection is more than d 
 them exceed any here in value and variety ; but the I'ascir. 
 of the Rubenses, and the interest attached to a number i 
 Blue Boy,' and ' General Wolfe,' for instance), long contri 
 popular as a resort for the mere amateur, and not less i 
 enthusiast. Mrs. Jameson's Private Galleries of Art. 
 
 AMERICA 
 WET 
 
 START OF 
 
 VIGOROUS 
 OF PROJ 
 
 FIRST MAN 
 
 AC 
 
 Nev 
 
 That 
 
 From Oar 
 
 .Vine ii- /a a public -opinion 
 
 Among the sculpture is Susanna, life-size, I 
 Westmacott, R.A. ; a Faun (antique) ; and bus!' 
 and Helen, Charles I. and Cromwell, &c. The 
 includes antique salvers, and a profusion of race- 6 
 
 ster's celebrated stud. The pictures are to be present form was clearly 
 sions obtainable by personal acquaintances of, the results of the recent elections, 
 Westminster. " \yet " -candidates having been 
 
 HAECOTJET HOTJSE (Duke of Portland), on tl torious in all parts of the coun' 
 nally built for Benson, Lord Bingley, and altei -while even Representative Vokto 
 Ralph, in 1734, as "one of the most singular p aut ; , )r o j t }, e Prohibition Lav/, i 
 like a convent than the residence of a man of Defeated 
 Poussin's landscape ornaments : and so it remai 
 Bingley House. The handsome offices in the r Independent Candidates. 
 
 HERTFORD HOUSE (Marquis of Hertford), Although there is little ho, 
 Pulteney Hotel, where Alexander, Emperor of Act being modified during tl ' 
 Oldenburg, sojourned in 1814, and where the ee ssion of Congress, the Katio 
 Alexander's sister) introduced Prince Leopold t . 
 
 f A i T4. v T, -NT i i HI Association Against the Prohibit 
 
 fasade, rich Itahan, was by Novosielski, with _ 
 
 Robert Smirke. The mansion was designed fo * 
 
 finished at his death; was first let as an hotel, a campaign that majorities in l\ 
 
 It was taken down and rebuilt mostly with the its repeal will be elected in 1924, V 1 
 
 house was heightened from 57 to 71 feet. The the Presidential Election takes pb>. 
 
 and the picture-gallery 50 feet, but the mansio Jf the Q i d part i eg ^o not n 
 
 its rebuilding. 
 
 The Hertford collection contains chef-d'ceuvret from 
 Hobbema; Holy Family, Rubens (cost 2478J.) ; Alchei 
 Vandyke, by himself; Oxen in a Meadow, Paul Potter ; 
 Murillo; Landscape with Herdsman, Claude; his own 
 to St. Peter, Rubens : and, from the Stowe collection, t 
 Servant, by Rembrandt (sold for 23001.) The Marquis i 
 objects of art and vertu. 
 
 HOIDEHNESSE HoiTSE (Marquis of Lond( 
 magnificent Sculpture-gallery, wherein are s 
 sculptors ; Theseus and the Minotaur, from tl 
 ing Cupid, &c. ; full-length portraits of Briti 
 century, by Sir Thomas Lawrence; life-size n 
 
 , - 
 
 reagh, the celebrated minister, placed in West.*" 
 
 " ' 
 
 issue, the association wili 
 .pendent candidates in Un- 
 pledged to modify the law. 
 
 Tax to Find Bonuses. 
 
 \A. tax on wine and beer, it 
 pointed out, would enable the Govei 
 ment to raise funds for a sohlie 
 bonus. This argument, widely 
 plyyed in the recent election, gain 
 
 of 
 
 thousands of men w! 
 Avmv during the worl
 
 MANSIONS. 
 
 same-, a colossal Sevres Vase, by Louis XVIII., and a valuable diamond-hilted sword; 
 besides cuirasses, helmets, and other trophies, captured by the soldier-Marquis in the 
 Peninsular War. 
 
 HOPE HOUSE (Mrs. Hope), south-east corner of Down-street, Piccadilly, was built 
 in 1849, for the late H. T. Hope, Esq., under the joint superintendence of M. Dusillion, 
 a French artist, and Professor Donaldson. The fronts are Caen stone, and have panels 
 of decorative marbles in the piers between the windows ; the arrangement of which is 
 novel, especially in the attic-story. The total height from the street-level to the balus- 
 trade (surmounted with superbly-carved vases) is 62 feet. The entrance-porch in 
 Down-street is very rich ; in the principal window-pediments are sculptured the armo- 
 rial bearings of Mr. Hope, repeated with the initial H in the very handsome iron railing, 
 cast by Andre in Paris. The details throughout show very careful and elegant draw- 
 ing ; and the carving, wholly by French artists, is beautifully executed. The grand 
 staircase and hall occupy the centre of the building ; the upper hall is paved with 
 coloured marbles in patterns. The walls are plaster-of- Paris polished, scagliola panels, 
 and marble plinths ; the floors, fire-proof, are of cast-iron girders and tile arches. The 
 ceilings are panelled and enriched ; the principal doors are of oak, carved with the 
 initial H in shields ; some of the chimney-pieces are of pierre-de-tonnerre, panelled with 
 French marbles ; others are of bronzed metal, with caryatid figures. The stables (for 
 12 horses) and coach-houses are in the rear of the mansion. W. Cubitt and Co., 
 builders ; ornamental work (wainscot doors, ceilings, stone carvings, mahogany case- 
 ments) by French artists ; cost about 30,000?. There are few pictures here, the col- 
 lections having been removed to Deepdene, in Surrey. Among the antiques is Sir 
 William Hamilton's second collection, made at Naples. The mansion may be seen by 
 cards obtainable by introduction to the owner. 
 
 The collection was formed at the celebrated mansion in Duchess-street, Portland-place, in the deco- 
 ration of which Mr. Hope, the author of Anastasius, exemplified the classic principles illustrated in his 
 larjfe work on Household Furniture and Internal Decorations, 1805. Thus the suite of apartments 
 included the Egyptian or 'Black Room, with ornaments from scrolls of papyrus and mummy-cases ; the 
 furniture and ornaments were pale yellow and bluish-green, relieved by masses of black and gold. The 
 Slue or Indian Room, in costly Oriental style. The Star Room : emblems of Night below : and above, 
 Aurora visiting Cephalus on Mount Ida, by Flaxman; furniture, wreathed figures of the Hours. The 
 Closet or Boudoir, hung with tent-like drapery; the mantel-piece an Egyptian portico; Egyptian, 
 Hindoo, and Chinese idols and curiosities. Picture Gallery: Ionic columns, entablature, and pediment 
 from the Temple of Erectheus at Athens; car of Apollo, classic tables, pedestals, &c. In four separate 
 apartments were arranged 200 Greek vases, including two copies of the Barberini or Portland Vase ; the 
 furniture partly from Pompeian models. The New Gallery, for 100 pictures of the Flemish school, 
 antique bronzes and vases ; furniture of elegant Grecian design. Mr. Hope died at Duchess-street in 
 1831 : he will ever be remembered for his taste and munificence as the early patron of Chantrey, Flax- 
 man, Canova, and Thorwaldsen. 
 
 LANSDOWNE HOUSE (Marquis of Lansdowne), which, with its garden, occupies the 
 south side of Berkeley-square, was commenced by Robert Adam for the Marquis of 
 Bute, but was sold unfinished to Lord Shelburne, created Marquis of Lansdowne in 
 1784. The purchase-money was 22,OOOZ., but the mansion cost Lord Bute 25,OOOZ. 
 
 The reception-room contains a fine collection of sculpture, including about fifty 
 statues, as many busts, besides bassi relievi : it was commenced by Gavin Hamilton, 
 who first excavated the site of Adrian's Villa. At the foot of the staircase is a noble 
 statue of Diana launching an arrow ; in the great dining-room are nine antique statues 
 in niches, including Germanicus, Claudius, Trajan, and Cicero j also the Sleeping 
 Nymph, the last work of Canova ; in the front drawing-room his Venus quitting the 
 Bath ; and a statue by Rauch, of Berlin, of a Child holding an alms-dish. In the 
 gallery, 100 feet in length, at the east end are life-size statues of Hercules, Marcus 
 Aurelius, Mercury, Diornede, Theseus, Juno, an Amazon, Juno standing, Hercules 
 when a youth, Jason, &c. ; and here are two Egyptian black marble statues, found ab 
 Tivoli. On the sides of the gallery are the busts, reliefs, &c.
 
 552 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The collection of pictures, formed by Henry, third Marquis of Lansdowne, since 1809, is famed for 
 its portraits, including Rembrandt holding a palette, by himself; a Lady (1642), Rembrandt; Velasquez, 
 by himself; Pope Innocent X., Velasquez ; A. del Sarto, by himself; a Gentleman, by Titian; Count 
 Frederigo Bozzola, by Seb. del Piombo; Queen Henrietta-Maria, by Vandyke; Sansovino, the Venetian 
 architect, by Giorgione ; a Cardinal and Andrea Doria, by Tintoretto; a Burgomaster and Lady in a Ruff, 
 by Rembrandt ; Charles V. in his cradle, by Velasquez ; Kitty Fisher and Laurence Sterne, by Sir Joshua 
 Keynolds; Alexander Pope, by Jervas; Dr. Franklin, by Gainsborough; Sir Humphry Davy, by Linnell; 
 Francis Homer, byRaeburn; the Marquis of Lansdowne, by Sir Thomas Lawrence; Ladies Ilchester, 
 Mary Cole, and Elizabeth Feilding, by Reynolds ; Peg Wpfflngton, by Hogarth ; Flaxman the sculptor, 
 by John Jackson; Sir Robert Walpole and his first Wife, Catherine Shorter, by Eckhart, (elaborate 
 black and gold frame by Gibbons), from the blue bedchamber of Strawberry Hill. Also, here are twelve 
 pictures by Sir Joshua Reynolds, including the Strawberry Girl and the Sleeping Girl. 
 
 Lansdowne House was long the political meeting-place of the great Whig party : 
 the first Cabinet Council of Lord Grey's administration was held in this house ; and 
 here, at the same meeting, it was resolved that Brougham should be Lord Chancellor. 
 Lord Lansdowne, the acknowledged head of the party, died at his seat, Bowood, Jan. 31, 
 1863 : he was distinguished by his friendship for artists and men of letters. 
 
 LYNDHTJRST (LOBD), Nos. 25 and 26, George-street, Hanover-square, was the resi- 
 dence of John Singleton Copley, E.A., and was for more than three-quarters of a 
 century the dwelling-house of his son, Lord Lyndhurst, who retired from the Chancellor- 
 ship in 1846. His Lordship died in the house No. 25, Oct. 12, 1863, aged 91. Here 
 were most of fhe important works of his father, including 
 
 Portrait of Admiral Viscount Duncan; Sketch of the Princesses Mary, Sophia, and Amelia; Samuel 
 and Eli ; portrait of Lord Mansfield; the Boy with a Squirrel, painted in 1760; the celebrated original 
 picture, exhibited anonymously at the Royal Academy, and which was the cause of Mr. Copley's coming 
 to England in 1 764 ; he went to Home in the same year. Portraits of John Singleton Copley, R.A ., with 
 his wile caressing the infant (the future Lord Lyndhurst), and his three other infant children. Portrait 
 of Archbishop Laud in his robes; and portrait of Lady Middleton in a black dress lined with pink satin, 
 pearl necklace and earrings, holding flowers, by Vandyke ; Death of Major Peirson, the celebrated chef- 
 d'ceuvre of the artist, engraved by Heath painted originally for Alderman Boydell, and afterwards 
 repurchased by Mr. Copley. 
 
 Lord Lyndhurst's pictures realized 5147/. ; the two freehold houses, sold for 1 8,0001., 
 have been taken down, and a club-house is built upon the site. 
 
 MANCHESTER HOTTSE, Manchester-square, was commenced for the Duke of Man- 
 chester in 1776, but was not completed until 1788. At the Duke's death the house 
 became the residence of the Spanish Ambassador, who built the Roman Catholic chapel 
 in Spanish-place. Manchester House was next the town mansion of the Marquis of 
 Hertford, a bon-vivant companion of the Prince Regent. The French Embassy was 
 next located here ; with Talleyrand, Guizot, and Sebastiani, successive representatives. 
 
 HOUSE, Pall Mall, was built by Wren, in 1709-10, for the great 
 Duke of Marlborough, upon part of the site of the pheasantry of St. James's Palace, 
 and of the garden of Mr. Secretary Boyle, the latter taken out of St. James's Park. 
 The ground was leased by Queen Anne to Sarah Duchess of Marlborough, who states 
 the Duke to have paid for the building between 40,OOOZ. and 50,OOOZ., " though many 
 people have been made to believe otherwise." The house is a fine specimen of rod 
 brickwork, Wren being employed as architect, to mortify Vanbrugh. The great Duke 
 died here in 1722. The Duchess loved to talk of " neighbour George," the King, at 
 St. James's Palace ; and here, Jan. 1, 1741, she received the Lord Mayor and Sheriffs, 
 to thank her for a present of venison : " she received \i$," says Sheriff Hoare, " in her 
 usual manner, sitting up in her bed ; . . . . and after an hour's conversation upon 
 indifferent matters, we retired." The Duchess intended to have improved the entrance 
 to the court-yard : an archway was opened in the wall, but was blocked up ; for her 
 Grace was frustrated by Sir Robert Walpole, who, to annoy her, bought the requisite 
 houses in Pall Mall. The court-yard is dull, but the front towards St. James's Park 
 has a cheerful aspect, and a garden. In 1817, Marlborough House was purchased by 
 the Crown for the Princess Charlotte and Prince Leopold ; it was the Prince's town- 
 house for several years : and after the death of William IV. the residence of the 
 Dowager- Queen Adelaide, whose personal effects were disposed of here, at the price 
 affixed to each article. In 1850, the mansion was settled upon the Prince of Wales, 
 on his attaining his eighteenth year. In the meantime, the Vernon collection of 
 pictures, nnd others of the English school, were removed to the lower apartments of 
 Marlborough House : and the upper rooms were granted to the Department of Practical 
 Art, for a library, museum of manufactures, the ornamental casts of the School of
 
 MANSIONS. 553 
 
 Design, a lecture-room, &c. Here was designed, in 1852, the Duke of Wellington's 
 Funeral Car, which was subsequently exhibited to the public in a temporary building 
 in the court-yard, 1853 : it is now in the Crypt of St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 Ja 
 
 bu 
 
 Ja , , , -.. ., 
 
 although the Crown of England possesses materials for an Historical Collection which would be infinitely 
 superior to that of Versailles. 
 
 Marlborough House has been enlarged and re-embellished to adapt it for the town 
 residence of the Prince and Princess of Wales. 
 
 An entrance-hall has been added to the north front of the house; the old entrance-hall has been con- 
 verted into a noble saloon about 40 ft. in length by 30 ft. in width, two stories in height. On the ceiling and 
 upper part of the walls, on three of the sides, are large oil paintings of the great victories of Marlborough, 
 the battles of Hochstet and Blenheim, and the taking of Marshal Tallard prisoner ; upon the ceiling are 
 allegories of the Arts and Sciences. These paintings, the work of Laguerre, had been hidden for many 
 years beneath successive layers of whitewash and colour, and were boarded and canvassed over. They 
 have been restored, and in several of them may be recognised the originals of some old engravings of 
 the battles of Ramillies and Blenheim, in which Marlborough on horseback, leading on the troops, is a 
 very prominent figure. On the lower part of the hall is hung tapestry, apparently of the date of Louis 
 Quatorze, the subjects represented being the adventures of Sancho Panza and Don Quixote. In the 
 centre of the principal side is magnificent Gobelins tapestry, the " Destruction of the Mamelukes." The 
 sofas and settees are covered with tapestry of the date of Louis Quatorze; and the furniture includes a 
 magnificent ebony and gold cabinet, and ebony and ormolu terms for busts. The library is on the west 
 side of the mansion. In the furnishing and decoration of the State apartmentsof Marlborough House, 
 English art and English manufactures have been duly patronized : Spitalfields and Manchester have 
 supplied the silk and damask, and Wilton the Axmiuster carpets, while the furniture has been made 
 entirely in London workshops. 
 
 One of the rooms on the lirst floor of Marlborough House has been converted into a characteristic 
 representation of a Turkish mandar' ah or reception-room. The room is hung round with souvenirs of 
 the Prince's travels : one of the most interesting articles is a fragment of Egyptian hieroglyphic. Here", 
 also, are amber mouthpieces, embroidered tobacco-bags, a coat of chain armour and a helmet, daggers, 
 swords, &c., artistically arranged ; also, specimens of Eastern dress waist scarfs, abbas, keffiehs ; and 
 in the centre, over the deewan, is another group of Eastern weapons daggers and swords of rare temper, 
 armour and helmets. 
 
 The new stables have the form of a block with two wings. In the centre of the 
 block is the Royal entrance, leading into the garden skirting the Mall of St. James's 
 Park. On either side of the Royal entrance are two coach-houses : the quadrangle in 
 front, together with the Royul entrance, is covered by an enormous skylight, supported 
 by light iron columns ; while the quadrangle itself is lighted with gas, provided with 
 clock, manure-pits, water-tanks, and trapped drains. The stables include forty-five 
 stalls and twelve loose boxes. 
 
 MONTAGUE HOUSE, Bloomsbury. (See MUSEUM, BRITISH.) 
 
 MONTAGUE HOUSE (Duke of Buccleuch), Whitehall, was built for Ralph, third 
 Lord Montague, created in 1689 Duke of Montague and Viscount Monthermer. It 
 had a spacious marble floored and pillared hall; and a large collection of full-length 
 portraits of the Montagues and their connexions, by Vandyke, Lely, and Reynolds ; 
 sketches en grisaille by Vandyke ; a fine assemblage of English Miniatures ; and 
 View of Whitehall, by Canaletti. The furniture was in the old French style, richly 
 carved and gilt ; and cabinets in buhl or ebony ; tables of marble, mosaic, or inlaid 
 wood ; hangings of dark velvet, damask, or satin. In the dining-room and library 
 were portraits of the British school; a few Grainsboroughs and Wilsons in the boudoir; 
 and both drawing-rooms were hung with fine old tapestry, representing hunting 
 scenes in the forest of Fontainebleau. The mansion was screened from the street by 
 trees and a garden ; and between it and the Thames was a terraced garden, with 
 venerable trees, fountains, and statues, and an open pavilion commanding a fine view 
 of the river. 
 
 Montague House was one of the mansions built after the Court had abandoned Whitehall, when 
 various noble families obtained leases of parts of the Privy Gardens. The Dukes of Richmond for a 
 hundred years occupied here a stately mansion surrounded with pleasure-grounds, on part of which is 
 built Richmond-terrace. Pembroke House was erected under like circumstances ; between which and 
 the site of Richmond House stood the mansion inherited from the Montague family by the Duke of 
 Buccleuch. 
 
 The lease of the site of old Montague House was renewed by the Government, 
 thus securing to the Duke of Buccleuch an acre and a quarter of land, with a river
 
 554 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 frontage for ninety -nine years, from 1856. The old mansion was then taken down, 
 and a new house erected in the French style, with lofty Mansard roofs. All the 
 old materials were ground down and made into a sort of concrete to form the founda- 
 tion of the new building, and every possible precaution taken to make the new 
 mansion water-tight in its lower floors. The new house is substantially fire-proof. 
 Iron has been substituted for wood in all the most important parts of the construction, 
 and every possible precaution has been taken to prevent fire spreading beyond the 
 apartment in which it should arise. In front of the Crown property on the bank of 
 the river, the operation of the Thames Embankment Bill will reclaim no less than five 
 acres and a half of land which would have been admirably adapted for the erection of 
 public offices, had not the lease of Montague House been renewed. These circum- 
 stances led to much discussion j but the mansion was completed for the Duke of 
 Buccleucb, and is now His Grace's town residence. 
 
 MONTAGUE HOTJSE, the elegant detached mansion at the north-west angle of 
 Portman-square, was built for the celebrated Mrs. Elizabeth Montague, who resided 
 here many years ; and who annually, on the 1st of May, on the front lawn, regaled 
 the chimney-sweepers of the metropolis, " so that they might enjoy one happy day in 
 the year."* The house is now the residence of Lord Rokeby. 
 
 Horace Walpole tells us that in February, 1782, he " dined at Mrs. Montague's new palace, and was 
 much surprised. Instead of vagaries, it is a noble, simple edifice." " When I came home," he adds, " I 
 recollected that although I thought it so magnificent a house, there was not a morsel ot gilding. It is 
 grand, not tawdry, nor larded and embroidered and pomponned with shreds and remnants, and clin- 
 quant like all the harlequinades of Adam, which never let the eye repose for a moment." 
 
 NOBPOLK HOUSE (Duke of Norfolk), No. 21, St. Jarnes's-square, occupies the site 
 Of the residence of Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans (temp. Charles II.) ; the first tenant 
 of the Norfolk favaily being the seventh Duke, who died here 1701. The old mansion 
 extended to the site of Waterloo-place eastward. In old Norfolk House George III. 
 was born, May 24, 1738 (0. S.) ; and Edward Augustus 'Duke of York, March 24, 
 1739 : the room remains, with a ceiling painted by Sir James Thornhill ; the state- 
 bed is preserved at Worksop. The present Norfolk House was commenced by Bret- 
 tingbam, in 1742, for Thomas Duke of Norfolk, and completed for his brother Edward 
 in 1762 : the portico was added in 1842. The rooms are gorgeously carved and gilt in 
 the Queen Anne style, and contain a collection of pictures of the Italian, Spanish, and 
 Flemish schools ; and conspicuous among the plate displayed at state-banquets, are the 
 coronation-cups received in various reigns by the Dukes of Norfolk as hereditary Earls 
 Marshal : here Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were sumptuously entertained, 
 June 19, 1849. 
 
 In the old mansion are deposited the records of the Howard, Fitzalan, and Mowbray families. 
 Among the pictures is a portrait of the first Duke of Norfolk, by Holbein ; shield presented to the chi- 
 valrous soldier-poet, Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, at a tournament in 1537; portraits of the family 
 of Thomas Earl of Arundel , who collected the " Marbles ;" portrait of his wife, by Rubens. 
 
 Here expired, Dec. 16, 1815, Charles, eleventh Duke of Norfolk : a few hours before he died, by his 
 desire, a servant was sent to a bookseller's in Pall Mall to procure Drelincourt's Book of Conaolationt 
 against the Fear of Death, wliich was read to the penitent Duke hi his last moments. 
 
 NOBMANTON, LOBE, No. 3, Seamore-place, May Fair: here are some important 
 pictures by Holbein ; Holy Family, by Parmegiano ; and works of the English school. 
 
 NOETHFMBEBLAND HOUSE (Duke of Northumberland), Strand, occupies the site of 
 the Hospital of St. Mary Kounceval, founded temp. Henry III. ; its large conventual 
 chapel reaching to the Thames in the Sutherland View of London, 1543. The present 
 mansion was built, about 1605, for Henry Howard, Earl of Northampton, son of the 
 poet, Lord Surrey. The architects were Bernard Jansen and Gerard Christmas ; and 
 it was then called Northampton Souse. The Earl of Northampton died here in 1614, 
 having bequeathed the mansion to his nephew, Thomas Howard, Earl of Suffolk, when 
 the name was changed to Suffolk Souse : a drawing by Hollar shows it to have been 
 quadrangular in plan, with a lofty dome-crowned tower at each angle, in the Dutch 
 style. It originally had three sides, the fourth remaining open to the gardens and the 
 Thames j when the quadrangle was completed by the addition of the state-rooms, 
 
 There was a fourth Montague House viz. the mansion built by Viscount Montague, or his son, upon 
 part of the site of the priory of St. Mary Overey, in Southwark close, 15i5 ; the precinct being named 
 Montague Close.
 
 MANSIONS. 555 
 
 attributed, but erroneously, to Inigo Jones. After the marriage of Elizabeth, daughter 
 of Theophilus, second Earl of Suffolk, with Algernon Percy, tenth Earl of Northumber- 
 land, in 1642, the mansion was called Northumberland Souse. In 1660 General 
 Monk was invited to this house by Earl Algernon ; and here, with other leading men 
 of the nation, he proposed and planned the restoration of Charles II. On the death 
 of Joscelyne Percy, the son of Algernon, in 1670, without male issue, his only daughter, 
 Elizabeth, became heiress of the Percy estates. She married, in 1682, Charles Sey- 
 mour, " the proud Duke of Somerset," who resided at Northumberland House in great 
 state. On the death of the Duke in 1748, he was succeeded by his eldest son, Alger- 
 non Earl of Hertford, and seventh Duke of Somerset, created Earl of Northumberland 
 in 1749, with remainder, failing issue male, to his son-in-law, Sir Hugh Smithson, who 
 assumed the name and arms of Percy, and was created Duke of Northumberland in 
 ] 766 : he was the grandfather of the fourth Duke, and the immediate predecessor of 
 his cousin, the Earl of Beverley, the late Duke. Of the old mansion, little more 
 than the central stone gateway, facing the Strand, remains ; this being part of the 
 original work of Gerard Christmas, and, with its characteristic sculpture, a curious 
 example of the Jacobean style. It is surmounted by a lion passant, the crest of the 
 Percys, cast in lead : it is inscribed with the family motto, " Esperance en Dieu." 
 Along the fa9ade was a border of capital letters, in place of the present ugly parapet : 
 One of these letters (S) fell down at the funeral of Anne of Denmark, 1619, and killed 
 a spectator. The date 1749 denotes a year of repairs, and the initials A. S. P. N., 
 Algernon Somerset, Princeps Northumbria?. In 1766, great part of the northern 
 front was rebuilt; as also after the fire in 1780, which consumed most of the upper 
 rooms. The court-yard is of plain Italian character ; and the living apartments are 
 the southern or garden side of the quadrangle. The boast of the interior is the double 
 state-staircase, with marble steps ; rich ormolu balustrade, chandelier, and lamps ; and 
 carved marble podium. The principal drawing-room has medallions by Angelica 
 Kauffmann, and a Raphaelesque ceiling. Beyond is a small room hung with tapestry, 
 designed by Zuccarelli, and worked in Soho-square, in 1758. The state-gallery, or 
 ball-room, is 106 feet long, and 27 wide ; it is gorgeously gilt with groups in relief, of 
 eagles, boys, and foliage, and is decorated in compartments with paintings after the 
 Roman school ; the chimney-pieces are supported by Phrygian captives in marble : this 
 noble room will accommodate 800 guests. Upon the walls are admirable copies, original 
 size, of the School of Athens, of Raphael, by Mengs ; the Presentation, and Marriage 
 of Cupid and Psyche, both also after Raphael, by Pompeio Battoni ; and copies of A. 
 Caracci's Bacchus and Ariadne, by Constansi; and Guide's Aurora, by Masaccio. 
 Here are two cabinets of marbles and gems, once the property of Louis XIV., and 
 valued at 1000Z. each. In the centre is a Sevres china vase, nine feet high, exquisitely 
 painted with Diana and her Nymphs disarming Cupid : this was presented by Charles X. 
 to Hugh, second Duke of Northumberland, when Ambassador to France, 
 
 The most important original picture in ttie Northumberland collection (principally at Alnwick 
 Castle), is the portrait-group of the " Cornaro Family" (Evelyn called it " ye Venetian Senators "), by 
 Titian, which was bought by Algernon Earl of Northumberland, temp. Charles I. from Vandyke, for 1000 
 guineas. Among the other pictures are San Sebastian, bound on the ground, and two angels in the air, 
 by Guercino, with figures life-size ; a small " Adoration of the Shepherds," by G. Bassano ; " a pretty 
 Girl with a Candle, before which she holds her hands, by G. Schalcken, of remarkable clearness, and 
 good impasto" (Waagen) ; Alnwick Castle, and Westminster Bridge, building and completed, by Cana- 
 letti ; a curious portrait of Edward VI., with a long inscription, by Mabuse ; a Fox-hunt and Deer-hunt 
 by F. Snyders ; Christ crowned with Thorns, by Caravaggio ; portrait of Napoleon when First Consul, 
 by Phillips (a fine likeness) ; several family portraits, including Percy Earl of Northumberland, one of 
 Vandyke's finest portraits. Also, carvings in ivory, after pictures by Teuiers and others ; and sump- 
 tuous" ormolu articles. The mansion can only be seen by special permission. 
 
 In the Strand front, west of the central gateway, by an ingenious contrivance, a portion of the wall 
 is opened for the egress of carriages upon state occasions. 
 
 Hugh, third duke, who died at Alnwick Castle, was interred from Northumberland House, with 
 great state, in Westminster Abbey, Feb. 22, 1847 ; the funeral pageant reaching from Charing Cross to 
 the western door of the Abbey : and his successor, Algernon, 4th Duke, who also died at Alnwick Castle, 
 was interred from Northumberland House, with like state, Feb. 25, 1865. 
 
 OVEHSTONE, LOBD, No. 22, Norfolk-street, Park-lane : a valuable collection of 
 Italian, Flemish, and Dutch masters, the latter including examples from the cabinet of 
 Baron Verstolk, at the Hague. 
 
 PEEL, SIB ROBEBT, BAET., M.P., No. 4, Privy Gardens, Whitehall : the mansion
 
 556 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 contains a portion of the choice collection of pictures formed by the late Sir Robert 
 Peel ; including Rubeus's celebrated Chapeau de Faille, for which Sir Robert gave 
 3500 guineas : also, 3 by Cuyp ; 4 Coast-scenes, by Collins ; the Poulterer's Shop, by 
 G. Douw ; 4 by Hobbema ; 2 by Isaac Ostade j Landscape and Cattle, by Paul Potter, 
 1654; 2 by Ruysdael; 7 by D. Teniers; Genoese Senator and his Wife, by Vandyke; 
 4 by A. Vandervelde; 7 by W. Vandervelde; 6 by Wouvermans; 2 by Wynants. 
 The Portraits, by Reynolds and Lawrence, have been removed to Drayton Manor. In 
 the dining-room of the above mansion Sir Robert. Peel was placed immediately after his 
 fatal accident ; and in this room he expired, July 2, 1850. Between the doors hangs 
 Wilkie's fine picture of John Knox preaching. 
 
 ROTHSCHILD'S, BAEON, Mansion, 147, Piccadilly, occupies a site of 67ft. frontage 
 by 90ft. in depth, and is built on a bed of concrete extending over the whole 
 surface of the basement story. The front walls are of Portland stone. The principal 
 staircase is of marble : its centre flight, opposite the entrance-hall door, is 8ft. wide. 
 The main landing, as well as the stairs, is of marble, and connects the two ante-rooms, 
 which are divided from the staircase by marble screens of columns and arches. These 
 ante-rooms communicate with the first-floor reception-rooms, one of which occupies the 
 whole of the Piccadilly front. 
 
 RUTLAND HOUSE, No. 16, Arlington-street, Piccadilly : here, January 5th, 1827, 
 died the Duke of York, second son of George III. 
 
 SIBTHOEP, COLONEL, 46, Eaton-square. Here was assembled the rare and costly 
 collection of articles of vertu : Oriental curiosities, ancient ornamental silver, carvings 
 in ivory and wood, bronzes, Oriental and Limoges enamel, Raphael and Palissy ware ; 
 ornamental glass, German, Bohemian, and Venetian ; Dresden, Sevres, old Worcester, 
 and Chelsea porcelain, silver, silver- gilt, and plated articles. 
 
 SPENCEE HOUSE (Earl Spencer), St. James's-place, was built by Vardy, a pupil of 
 Kent, for the first Earl Spencer, father of the collector of the Sibliotheca Spenceriana. 
 The mansion fronts the Green Park, and has a pediment, upon which are three graceful 
 figures by Spong, a Danish sculptor. 
 
 STAFFORD HOUSE (Duke of Sutherland), on the west side of Stable-yard, St. James's 
 Palace, occupies part of the site of the Queen's Library, built by Kent for Caroline, 
 consort of George II. : in Pennant's time it was a lumber-room. The Stafford mansion 
 was commenced in 1825, by B. Wyatt, for the Duke of York, second son of George III. 
 In 1827, it was proposed to appropriate part of the mansion to the use of the Royal 
 Society ; the offer was accepted subject to future arrangements, but was not taken 
 advantage of, on account of the increased expenditure which the change would have 
 involved; whilst the apartments were unsuitable for the purposes of the Society. 
 The Duke of York died before the building was completed. The Crown lease was 
 then sold to the first Duke of Sutherland, for 72,0002., subject to an annual ground- 
 rent of 758Z. The mansion is entirely of hewn stone ; the north front in Stable-yard 
 has a Corinthian portico of eight columns, beneath which is the entrance. The garden- 
 fence is curiously made of slate. 
 
 The interior was planned by Barry, by whom were added the second and third 
 stories, the latter concealed by a balustrade. The grandest feature is the hall, or 
 tribune, and state-staircase, opening through all the stories, and lighted by a lantern 
 filled with engraved glass, and supported by eighteen palm-trees ; the ceiling contains 
 Guercino's celebrated apotheosis of St. Grisogno ; and beside the fireplace are Murillo's 
 Prodigal Son's Return, and Abraham and the Angels, from the Soult Gallery. The 
 walls are imitative Giallo antico, divided by white marble Corinthian columns and 
 pilasters ; and in compartments are copies, by Lorenzi, of Paul Veronese's colossal pic- 
 tures. The whole interior strikingly reminded Dr. Waageu of many of the palaces of 
 Genoa : it is a square of 80 feet, rising in the centre to 120, the roof richly painted 
 and gilt, the floor a sea of red and white marble ; and when lighted by scores of can- 
 delabra, the effect is truly gorgeous. On the first landing is a marble statue of a Sibyl, 
 by Ronaldi. Thence two flights of stairs diverge upwards to a corridor, decorated with
 
 MARKETS. 557 
 
 marble columns and balustrades, round three sides of tbe hall ; the fourth being the 
 gallery, 120 feet lonpr, with a fretted gold roof, and lighted by Roman candelabra in 
 gilt-bronze; the walls are hung with paintings of the Italian, Flemish, Spanish, and 
 modern English schools. 
 
 Among the pictures in ths gallery are, Vandyke's portrait of Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel; 
 Morone's portrait of a Jesuit (Titian's Schoolmaster) ; Correggio's Mule-driver, reputed to have been 
 painted for a tavern-sign ; Christ before Pilate, Honthorst's finest work, from the Lucca collection ; 
 Christ at Emmaus, by Paul Veronese; Christ bearing his Cross, by Raphael; Don Francis Borgia 
 entering the Jesuits' College, several life-size figures, by Velasquez; and three works of Zurbaran, from 
 the Soult collection ; Lord Strafford on his way to the Scaffold receiving Laud's blessing, by Delarochej 
 and Winterhalter's portrait of the Duchess Dowager of Sutherland. 
 
 The other three sides consist of eight state-rooms : three towards the Green Park are 
 drawing-rooms hung with Gobelins tapestry, designed by Delaroche. Northward is the 
 great dining-room, 70 feet by 30 feet, where is a statue of Ganymede, by Thorwaldsen ; 
 and on the third side are two saloons hung with a long series of paintings of the old 
 Italian schools above the bookshelves. 
 
 In the dining-room, on the ground-floor, are assembled all the portraits of the Orleans 
 Gallery ; the royal and historical personages during the reign of Louis XIV., the Orleans 
 regency, the reign of Louis XV., and the happy part of the life of Louis XVI. and Marie 
 Antoinette. The adjoining rooms are dedicated solely to modern British art ; including 
 ckef-d'aeuvres of Reynolds, Lawrence, Opie, Wilkie, Turner, Landseer, Callcott, &c. j 
 busts by Chantrey, and elegant groups by Westmacott, senior and junior ; and in her 
 Grace's drawing-room the chimney-piece supports are statues of her two lovely daughters, 
 exquisitely sculptured by the younger Westmacott. Other marble chimney-pieces are 
 adorned with small bronzes and elegant vessels, after the antique ; busts, and bas-relief. 
 
 Among the pictures on the ground-floor are, Winterhalter's Scene from the Decameron ; a Eiver 
 Scene, by J. Van Goyen, his finest work ; St. Justina and St. Eufina, half-lengths, by Murillo, very fine ; 
 the Marriage of St. Catherine, by Rubens; Festival before the Flood (17 figures), by W. Etty, R.A. ; 
 Scene from the Spectator, by T. Stothard, R.A. ; the Breakfast Table, by Wilkie, R.A. ; Cassandra 
 foretelling Hector's Death, by B. R. Haydon ; the Passage of the Red Sea by the Israelites, by F. Danby, 
 A. R.A. ; the Assuaging of the Waters, by John Martin ; Death of the Virgin, by Albert Durer ; Head of a 
 Young Man, by Parmegiano : Lady Gower (now Duchess Dowager of Sutherland) and her Daughter (now 
 Duchess of Argyle), by Sir Thomas Lawrence; the Day after the Battle of Chevy Chase, by E. Bird, 
 R.A. Also a drawing, by Prince Albert, of his son, the Prince of Wales; and a life-size bronze statue 
 of the Marquis of Stafford, by Feucheres. Among the historic memorials is a bronze cast taken from 
 the face of Napoleon, after death. 
 
 The collection of pictures can only be seen by special invitation or permission of the 
 family. 
 
 TOMLINE'S (Mr. G.), No. 1, Carlton House-terrace, contains a few first-class pictures ; 
 including the Pool of Bethesda, or Christ healing the Paralytic, by Murillo, purchased 
 by Mr. Tomline from the Soult collection for 7500Z. Here also is the picture of Christ 
 and the Woman of Samaria, by Annibal Caracci; and the identical portrait of 
 Charles V., to paint which Titian journeyed to Bologna. 
 
 UXBBIDGE HOUSE (Marquis of Anglesey), Burlington Gardens, built by Joseph 
 Bonomi, in 1792, occupies the site of Queensbury House (Leoni, architect, 1726), where 
 died the poet Gay, December 4, 1732. 
 
 S-tC A 
 
 MARKETS. 
 
 "OEW of the Market-buildings of the metropolis are of tasteful design, such as w 
 J- accustomed to admire in the ancient and modern market-places of the Conti 
 
 we are 
 
 modern market-places of the Continent. 
 The early history and location of the London Markets, are, however, curious. 
 
 " Shall the large mutton smoke upon your boards ? 
 Such Newgate's copious market best affords. 
 Wouldst thou wish mighty beei augment thy meal ? 
 See". Leadenhall ; St. James's sends thee veal ; 
 Thames-street gives cheeses Covent Garden fruits ; 
 Moorfields old books, and Monmouth-street old suits." 
 
 Gay's Trivia, book ii. 
 
 BILLINGSGATE is described at pp. 54 and 55. It was once a landing-place for 
 other merchandise than fish : " 1550. There came a sheppe ot egges and shurtes and 
 smockes out of France to Byllyngesgatte." (Grey Friars' Chron.)
 
 558 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 BOROUGH MARKET, Southwark, for provisions, occupies the site of a mansion of the 
 see of Rochester ; and the ground is held of the Bishop by the parish of St. Saviour, at 
 an annual rent of 141. 13s. Qd. 
 
 CLARE MARKET, at the south-west angle of Lincoln's-inn-fields, for butcher's-meat, 
 fish, and vegetables, was built by William Holies, Baron Houghton and Earl of Clare, 
 in Clement's-inn-fields, about the year 1660, and was first called New Market. 
 
 The City and Lord Clare had a long lawsuit concerning this estate : the City yielded; "and from the 
 success of this noble lord, they have got several charters for the erecting of several other markets since 
 the year 1660 : as that of St. James, by the Earl of St. Albans ; Bloomsbury, by the Earl of South- 
 ampton; Brook Market, by the Lord Brook; Hungerford Market; Newport Market; besides the Hay- 
 market, New Charing Cross, and that at Petty France at Westminster, with their Mayfair in the fields 
 behind Piccadilly." Earl. US. 5900. 
 
 Here was a chapel for the use of the butchers, whither Orator Henley removed 
 from Newport Market, and preached in a tub covered with velvet and goldj the altar 
 being inscribed " The Primitive Eucharist." Henley, " preacher at once, and zany of 
 the age," lectured " at the Oratory " upon theology, " skits of the fashions," " the 
 beau monde from before Noah's flood," and "bobs at the times;" but straying into 
 sedition, he was cited before the Privy Council, who dismissed him as an impudent 
 fellow. He lectured here for nearly 20 years; the admission was 1*., and he had 
 medals struck as tickets. In Gibbon's-court, Clare Market, was a theatre, where 
 Killigrew's company performed some time. " Nov. 20, 1660. Mr. Sbepley and I to 
 the new playhouse near Lincoln's-inn-fields (which was formerly Gibbon's Tennis- 
 court) where the play of ' Beggar's Bush ' was newly begun : . . it is the finest play- 
 house, I believe, that ever was in England." (Pepys.) Its remains were long used 
 as a carpenter's shop, slaughter-houses, &c. Clare Market lying between the two great 
 theatres, its butchers were the arbiters of the galleries, the leaders of theatrical rows, 
 the musicians at actresses' marriages, the chief mourners at players' funerals. In and 
 around the Market were the signs of the Sun ; Bull and Butcher, afterwards Spiller's 
 Head ; The Grange; The Bull's Head, where met the " Shepherd and his Flock 
 Club," and where Dr. Radclifie was carousing when he received the news of the loss of 
 his 5000Z. venture. Hogarth, when an apprentice, was here an early boon companion of 
 Joe Miller. Next is the Black Jack, in Portsmouth-street, the haunt of Joe Miller, 
 the comedian, and where he uttered his time-honoured "jests ;" the house remains, but 
 the sign has disappeared. Miller died in 1738, and was buried in St. Clement's upper 
 ground, in Portugal-street, where his grave-stone was inscribed with the following 
 epitaph, written by Stephen Duck : " Here lie the remains of honest Joe Miller, who 
 was a tender husband, a sincere friend, a facetious companion, and an excellent come- 
 dian. He departed this life, the 15th day of August, 1738, aged 54 years. 
 
 " If humour, wit, and honesty could save 
 The humourous, witty, honest, from the grave, 
 This grave had not so soon its tenant found, 
 With honesty, and wit, and humour crown'd. 
 Or could esteem and love preserve our health, 
 And guard us longer from the stroke of Death, 
 The stroke of Death on him had later fell, 
 Whom all mankind esteem'd and loved so well." 
 
 The" stone was restored by the parish grave-digger at the close of the last century ; 
 and in 1816 a new stone was set up by Mr. Jarvis Buck, churchwarden, who added 
 " S. Duck" to the epitaph. At the Black Jack (also called the Jump), a club known 
 as "the Honourable Society of J ackers" met until 1816. (See"Jo: Miller, a biography," 
 by W. H. Wills, prefixed to The Family Jo: Miller, 1848.) 
 
 Clare Market, which had long been one of the poorest and most squalid neighbourhoods in the me- 
 tropolis, has of late years been greatly improved by the establishment of a Mission, with a chapel in the 
 centre ; also, an orphan refuge, a needlewoman's home, a working man's club, soup-kitchen, Bible-class, 
 &c., to all which the recipients themselves contribute. 
 
 COLOMBIA MARKET, Bethnal Green (Darbishire, architect), has been built at the cost 
 of Miss Burdett Coutts, for providing good supplies, with great attention to cleanliness 
 and sanitary regulation; the shops surrounding the market to be let for various trades. 
 The design is old English, and the plan quadrangular, of fine brick and stone, and 
 terra-cotta ; in a lofty central tower is the machinery for the water supply. Altogether 
 this is the most picturesque market-place in the metropoh's.
 
 MARKETS. 559 
 
 COEN MARKET, Mark-lane. (See COEN EXCHANGE, p. 329.) 
 
 COVENT- GARDEN MAEKET was established towards the end of Charles II 'a reign 
 (see p. 293), on the site of the garden of the Convent at Westminster ; and in 
 Chamberlayne's Notitia, 1726, it is printed Convent Garden. Strype describes it, in 
 1698, as held for fruits, herbs, roots, and flowers, " beneath a small grotto of trees," on 
 Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, the present market-days. In 1704, when Tavi- 
 stock-row was built, the market-people were compelled to assemble in the square, and 
 here their stalls increased to dwellings. 
 
 Stecle (Tatler, No. 454, Aug. 11, 1712), in his boat-voyage from Richmond, "soon fell in with a fleet 
 of gardeners, bound for the several market-ports of London. . . . It was very easy to observe by their 
 sailing, and the countenances of the ruddy virgins who were supercargoes, the part of the town to which 
 they were bound. There was an air in the purveyors for Covent Garden, who frequently converse with 
 morning rakes, very unlike the seeming sobriety of those bound for Stocks Market. . . . I landed, 
 with ten sail of apricot boats, at Strand Bridge, after having put in at Nine Elms and taken in melons, 
 consigned by Mr. Cuffe, of that place, to Sarah Sewell and Co., at their stall in Covent Garden." 
 
 Still the market was a strange assemblage of shed and penthouse, rude stall, and 
 crazy tenement, coffee-house and gin-shop, intersected by narrow and ill-lit footways, 
 until the site was cleared for a new market in 1829. The present market-buildings 
 were designed by Fowler, and are perfectly fitted for their various uses ; evince con- 
 siderable architectural skill, and are so characteristic of the purpose for which the 
 market has been erected, that it cannot be mistaken for anything else but what it is ; 
 unless the inscription, " JOHN DUKE OF BEDFORD, erected MDCCCXXX.," over the east 
 end, lead posterity to regard this as a patriotic act ; whereas the Bedford family derive 
 a large rental from the market, stated at 5000?. per annum. The area is 3 acres. The 
 rent of some of the shops is from 4001. to 5001. per annum. 
 
 The plan consists of a quadrangle, with two exterior colonnades on the north and 
 south sides, in front of shops; and in the central building an avenue open to the 
 roof, with shops on each side for forced articles, the choice fruits, vegetables, &c. At 
 the east end is a quadruple colonnade, with a terrace over, and two large conserva- 
 tories, a roofed fountain of Devonshire marble, and an emblematical group of figures 
 on the pediment of a screen between the conservatories. At the west end is a colon- 
 nade, and below is the iron-roofed Flower Market. There are store-cellars almost 
 throughout the area ; and water is supplied from an Artesian well sunk beneath the 
 central path, 280 feet deep, and affording 1600 gallons per hour, distributed throughout 
 the market by a steam-engine. 
 
 The supplies of fruit and vegetables sent to this market, in variety, excellence, and 
 quantity, surpass those of all other countries. There is more certainty of being able 
 to purchase a pine-apple here, every day in the year, than in Jamaica and Calcutta, 
 where pines are indigenous. Forced asparagus, potatoes, sea-kale, rhubarb-stalks, 
 mushrooms, French beans, and early cucumbers, are to be had in January and 
 February ; in March, forced cherries, strawberries, and spring spinach ; in April, grapes, 
 peaches, and melons, with early peas ; in May, all forced articles in abundance. The 
 supply of forced flowers, of greenhouse plants, and in summer of hardy flowers and 
 shrubs, is equally varied and abundant ; and of curious herbs for domestic medicines, 
 distilleries, &c., upwards of 500 species may be procured at the shop of one herbalist. 
 
 From distant counties are sent up the products of acres of turnip-tops, cabbages, and peas ; while 
 hundreds of acres in Cornwall and Devon grow early potatoes, broccoli, peas, &c., which reach London 
 by railway. Green peas have been sold here at Christmas at 21. the quart, and asparagus and rhubarb 
 at 15*. the bundle. Peaches are sold at 60*. a dozen, and cherries at 40*. a pound. 
 
 The foreign green-fruit trade of Covent Garden is very extensive in pine-apples, 
 melons, cherries, apples and pears. The cheap West India pine-apple trade dates from 
 1844, when pines were first cried in the streets " a penny a slice." 
 
 FAREINGDON MAEKET, between the west end of Shoe-lane and Farringdon-street, 
 covers l acres of ground, and was built by William Montague, the City architect ; it 
 was opened in 1829, on the removal of Fleet Market. It is well placed for drainage, 
 parallel with Holborn-hill ; the site and buildings (including a clock-tower of Italian 
 design) cost about 250,000^. ; but the Market is little frequented. 
 
 HUNGEBFOED MABKET, West Strand, occupied the site of a market-place built in 
 1680 by Sir Edward Hungerford, from his town-house and grounds, extending to the
 
 560 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Thames. In 1685, Sir Stephen Fox and Sir Christopher Wren were proprietors of 
 the market-estate ; in the centre was a lofty hall, with a bust of one of the Hunger- 
 fords, and an inscription stating the market-place to have been erected " utilitati 
 publiccB ;" but Strype, in 1720, describes it as " baulk'd at first," and turned to little 
 account. The old hall and a colonnade remained until 1830, when premises adapted 
 from a Roman market, were commenced for a company by Fowler, architect of Covent 
 Garden Market. The lower quadrangle was the fish-market, and the upper for vege- 
 tables, fruit, meat, &c. The market was publicly opened July 2, 1833 ; but proved 
 alike unprofitable with the original Hungerford scheme. The market-place has been 
 removed for the Charing Cross Railway Terminus and Hotel. 
 
 LEADENHALL MARKET, Gracechurch-street, is the great poultry and game market, 
 where 4,000,000 birds, &c., have been sold in one year. Tn 1533 the beef sold here 
 was not to exceed a halfpenny a pound, and mutton a halfpenny half-farthing. 
 
 In severe winters here are large supplies of wild ducks, principally from Holland ; woodcocks, &c. ; 
 snipes from Ireland ; pigeons from Prance; rabbits from Ostend; blackcocks from Scotland. " Some- 
 times, after a grand battue, there is a glut of hares and pheasants in Leadenhall Market." (Macculloch.) 
 The returns for poultry, game, and rabbits in one year equal half a million of money. A few years since 
 Ostend rabbits were hardly saleable in London; now, from 60 to 100 tons are imported weekly by 
 steamers, and 1000 persons are employed in this rabbit trade. On Christmas Eve here are displayed 
 100,000 geese and turkeys, including importations from France, Belgium, Holland, and Ireland. Here, 
 also, is a market for live animals, fancy dogs and rabbits, cage-birds, &c. 
 
 METROPOLITAN CATTLE MARKET, the, erected to supply the place of Smithfield, 
 where the last market was held June 11, 1855, occupies 75 acres of ground. The 
 Market-place is an irregular quadrangle, with a lofty clock-tower in the centre, and 
 four taverns at the four corners ; the open area being set off into divisions for the 
 different kinds of live stock. No less than 400,000. have been expended upon the 
 land and buildings. In the parts of the market appropriated for the reception of the 
 different cattle, each central rail is decorated with characteristic casts of heads of oxen, 
 sheep, pigs, &c. : these were designed and modelled by Bell, the sculptor. The open 
 space of the market will accommodate at one time about 7000 cattle and 42,000 sheep, 
 with a proportionate number of calves and pigs. The calf and pig-markets are covered, 
 the roofs being supported by iron columns, which act at the same time as water-drains. 
 In the centre of the whole area is a twelve-sided structure, called " Bank Buildings," 
 surmounted by an elegant campanile, or bell-tower. The twelve sides give entrance to 
 twelve sets of offices occupied by bankers, salesmen, railway companies, and electric 
 telegraph companies. 
 
 In one year, 1862, the returns have been 304,741 bullocks, 1,498,500 sheep, 27,951 
 calves, and 29,470 pigs. The great Christmas sale in the closing year of old Smithfield 
 ranged from 6000 to 7000 bullocks, and between 20,000 and 25,000 sheep. On 
 December 15, 1862, the bullocks were 8340, being a greater number than ever before 
 known at any metropolitan market. The market-days for cattle, sheep, and pigs are 
 Mondays and Thursdays j there is a miscellaneous market for horses, asses, and goats 
 on Fridays. 
 
 NEWGATE MAEKET, between Paternoster-row and Newgate-street, was formerly 
 kept in the latter street, and was a market for meal. " 1548. This yere before 
 Alhalloutyd was sett up the howse for the markyt folke in Newgate Market for to 
 waye melle in." {Grey Friars' Chron.) It is now the great Meat Market. Upon 
 the site of the old College of Physicians, Warwick -lane, is held another meat market. 
 
 Butcher-Hall-lane (now King Edward-street), Newgate-street, was originally named from the great 
 number of butchers living here ; and there is extant a petition to Parliament, dated 1380, praying that 
 they might be restrained from throwing the blood and entrails of slaughtered animals into the river 
 Fleet, and that they might be compelled to " kill" at " Knyghtsbrigg," or elsewhere out of London ; and 
 this seems to have been done for several reigns. 
 
 The City poulterers were strictly prohibited from standing for sale at the Carfeux of Leadenhall, a 
 
 Elace with " four faces," which was expressly reserved for foreigners ; and were compelled, under pain of 
 jrfeiture, to stand towards the west of the church of St. Michael, on Coruhill. Similar regulations 
 were in force at Newgate Market, the object being to prevent " denizens" from meddling with the 
 foreigners in sale or purchase. Foreigners were prohibited from carrying their poultry to the houses of 
 denizen poulterers, or lodging in their houses, and were liable to forfeiture and imprisonment if they 
 did not go direct to the market. Any poulterer who sold above the price fixed by the regulations was 
 liable to penalties ; and any person who bought above the price was liable to forfeit what he so bought, 
 and to be further punished by the local authorities.
 
 MABK-LANE. 561 
 
 NEWPORT MARKET, Soho, named from the town-house of the Earl of Newport in 
 the neighbourhood, is a meat-market, with its butchers, slaughtermen, and drovers. 
 Here Orator Henley held his mock preaching. The father of John Home Tooke was 
 a poulterer in Newport market, as he told his schoolfellows, " a Turkey merchant." 
 
 OXFORD MARKET, north of Oxford-street, was built for Edward, Earl of Oxford, in 
 1731. Barry, the painter, who lived in Castle-street, describes it ironically as "the 
 most classic London market that of Oxford." 
 
 , or West Smithfield (so called to distinguish it from East Smithfield, 
 east of Tower-hill), was the only " live " market, and the oldest in the metropolis. 
 The name signifies a smooth plain ; " smith " being corrupted from the Saxon emeth, 
 smooth. Fitzstephen calls it " a certain plain field (planus campus), both in reality 
 and name, situated without one of the City gates, even in the very suburbs :" horses 
 and cattle were sold here in 1150, horse-racing was common, and the horse-market was 
 to our day called " Smithfield races." The original extent of Smithfield was about 
 three acres ; the market-place was paved, drained, and railed in, 1685 ; subsequently 
 enlarged to 4^ acres, and since 1834 to 6 acres. Yet this enlargement proved dis- 
 proportionate to the requirements : in 1731 there were only 8304 head of cattle sold in 
 Smithfield ; in 1846, 210,757 head of cattle, and 1,518,510 sheep. The old City laws 
 for its regulation were called the " Statutes of Smithfield." Here might be shown 
 4000 beasts and about 30,000 sheep, the latter in 1509 pens : and there were 50 pens 
 for pigs. Altogether Smithfield was the largest live market in the world, and its sales 
 amounted to 7,000,OOOZ. annually. It is thus sketched by Charles Dickens : 
 
 " It was market morning. The ground was covered nearly ankle-deep with filth and mire ; and a thick 
 steam perpetually rising from the reeking bodies of the cattle, and mingling with the fog, which seemed 
 to rest upon the chimney-tops, hung heavily above. All the pens in the centre of the large area, and as 
 many temporary ones as could be crowded into the vacant space, were filled with sheep ; and tied up to 
 posts by the gutter-side were long lines of beasts and oxen three or four deep. Countrymen, 
 butchers, drovers, hawkers, boys, thieves, idlers, and vagabonds of every low grade, were mingled toge- 
 ther in a dense mass : the whistling of drovers, the barking of dogs, the bellowing and plunging of 
 beasts, the bleating of sheep, and grunting and squeaking of pigs ; the criea of hawkers, the shouts, 
 oaths, and quarrelling on all sides, the ringing of bells, and the roar of voices that issued from every 
 public-house; the crowding, pushing, driving, beating, whooping, and yelling: the hideous and discor- 
 dant din that resounded from every corner of the market ; and the unwashed, unshaven, squalid, and 
 dirty figures constantly running to and fro, and bursting in and out of the throng, rendered it a stunning 
 and bewildering scene which quite confused the seuses." Oliver Twist. 
 
 The market, with its attendant nuisances of knackers' yards, tainted-sausage makers, 
 slaughter-houses, tripe-dressers, cat's-meat boilers, catgut-spinners, bone-houses, and 
 other noxious trades, in the very heart of London, was, however, in 1852, condemned 
 by law to be removed into Copenhagen Fields, Islington. 
 
 The posts and rails of the old cattle pens were turned into printing materials, refflet 
 chiefly. Upon the site of Smithfield and additional ground, is to be erected a Meat 
 and Poultry Market, of elegant design. 
 
 STOCKS MARKET, for fish and flesh, was established in 1282, on the site of the 
 present Mansion House, and was named from a pah* of stocks placed there for punish- 
 ing offenders. In the reign of Edward II. it was decreed one of the City Flesh and 
 Fish Markets. After the Great Fire it became a fine market for fruit, roots, and 
 herbs, " surpassing all the other fruit-markets in London " (Strype) : " where is such 
 a garden in Europe as the Stocks Market ?" (Shadwell, 1689). At the north end 
 was the Conduit ; and the equestrian statue of John Sobieski, set up by Sir Robert 
 Viner, with a new head, as Charles II. The market was removed for the Mansion 
 House site in 1779. A few dealers in costly fruit kept shops hard by until our time. 
 
 MARK-LANE, 
 
 "DETWEEN Fenchurch-street and Great Tower-street, is now the site of our great 
 J-) Metropolitan Corn Market, which originated as follows. There exists a token 
 " Joseph Taylor, in Blanch Appleton-court, at the end of Marke-lane," referring us to a 
 spot which now, amid modern alterations and improvements, is somewhat difficult to 
 trace. There is no mention of it in the list of streets, courts, &c., in the city of London, 
 published in 1722 ; nor is it in Maitland's list or plans (edit. 1756), although it is men- 
 tioned in the text (p. 778) as being " a large open square place with a passage for carts, 
 
 O
 
 562 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 and corruptly called Blind Chapel-court/' It appears from Stow that the north-east- 
 corner of Mark-lane (now occupied by the premises of Sharp and Son, tea-dealers), was, 
 as far back as 13 Edward I., the site of a manor-house called Blanch Appleton ; and 
 that a lane at the back of it was granted by the king to be enclosed and shut up. 
 Attached to the manor was the privilege of holding a market, or nr.art, but of which, 
 Stow observes, " nothing remaineth for memory but the name of Mart-lane, and that 
 corruptly termed Marke-lane." In the reign of Richard II. the manor was possessed 
 by Sir Thomas Roos. Stow further informs us, that in 3 Edward IV., " all basket- 
 makers, wyer-drawers, and other forrainers, were permitted to have shops in this mannour 
 of Blanch Appleton, and not elsewhere in this citie, or suburbs thereof." In a commu- 
 nication to the Society of Antiquaries from Mr. T. Lott, relating to the arrangements 
 made by the city of London for the funeral procession of the body of Elizabeth, Queen 
 of Henry VII., some curious particulars are given concerning this place, together with 
 the amount in which the city assessed its inhabitants towards the expense of the pro- 
 cession, &c. Mr. Lott states that this district, which appears to have been a sort of 
 sanctuary for non-freemen, is to this day called in the City Chamberlain's books the 
 " Blanch Appleton lands." Milton's friend, Cyriac Skinner, was a merchant in this 
 lane ; and here Dr. Isaac Watts was minister of a Dissenters' meeting house. 
 
 MARTIN'S (ST.), LANE, 
 
 TT'XTENDING northward from Charing Cross and the east side of Trafalgar-square, 
 -" to the junction of Long Acre with Cranbourn-street, appears in Aggas's plan 
 (early in Elizabeth's reign) as a green lane, with only a few houses beyond St. Martin's 
 Church, abutting into Covent Garden, which extended into Drury-lane. St. Martin's- 
 lane was mostly built about 1613, and was first named " West Church-lane." A 
 few of the houses are spacious and have noble staircases, those on the west side being 
 the largest ; some exteriors oil the east side are good specimens of brickwork. Among 
 the early tenants was Sir Theodore Mayerne, physician to James I. ; Daniel Mytens, 
 the painter ; Sir John Suckling, the poet. Sir Hugh Platt, the most ingenious hus- 
 bandman of his age, had a garden in St. Martin's-lane in 1606. Howeil sends a 
 maiden copy of his poem " to Sir Kenelm Digby, at his house in St. Martin's-lane," 
 in 1641. (Familiar Letters^ 5th edit. 1678, p. 393.) Here also lived the great Earl 
 of Shaftesbury ; Dr. Tenison, when vicar of St. Martin's ; and Ambrose Philips, the 
 Whig poet. Here too dwelt, nearly opposite May's-buildings, Sir Joshua Reynolds, 
 when he first came to London ; Sir James Thornhill, who, at the back of his house, 
 established an artists' school, from which arose the Royal Academy ; Roubiliac, who 
 commenced practice in St. Peter's-court, a favourite haunt of artists ; Fuseli, at No. 
 100 (first floor and staircase good). Old Slaughter's Coffee-house was once the great 
 evening resort of artists, and Hogarth was a constant visitor. At No. 101 was built 
 and exhibited the Apollonicon. No. 112 was the picture premises of Mr. Samuel 
 Woodburn, the eminent English dealer in art, who died in 1853, leaving a valuable 
 collection of the Italian, German, and Flemish old masters : among the English pictures 
 was Hogarth's Midnight Modern Conversation, painted for Rich, of Covent Garden 
 Theatre. No. 31 has a classically decorated exterior, in the style of Inigo Jones, and 
 is engraved in Hakewell's Architecture of the Seventeenth Century, 1853. The first 
 floor has an enriched ceiling. 
 
 A labyrinth of courts and alleys about St. Martin's church was removed in 1829 
 including the Bermudas, Caribbee or Cribbe Islands ; and Porridge Island, noted for 
 its cook-shops. Another knot, on the west side of St. Martin's-lane, was cleared away 
 for Trafalgar-square, including Duke's-court. Hereabout Sir Christopher Wren, in 
 conjunction with his friend, John Evelyn, in 1685, arranged the building of Archbishop 
 Tenison's Library. 
 
 MARTIN'S (ST.) LE GRAND. 
 
 A COLLEGE founded by Withred King of Kent, in 700, and rebuilt and endowed 
 about 1056 by the Saxon brothers Ingelric and Girard, was dedicated to St. 
 Martin, to which was added le Grand, from its privileges, granted by monarchs who
 
 HARYLEBONE. 563 
 
 occasionally resided here. The church and collegiate buildings covered the insulated 
 ground now occupied by the General Post-Office ; and the Sutherland View, 1543, shows 
 the lofty spire and tower, wherein curfew was rung. Among the deans was William 
 of Wykeham, who rebuilt the church : the advowsons were given by Henry VI. to 
 the Abbots of Westminster. St. Martin's-le-Grand was a noted sanctuary ; and after 
 the demolition of the College, the site was built upon and occupied by non -freemen, 
 to avoid the City jurisdiction. French, Germans, Dutch, and Scotch abounded here ; 
 their trades being shoemakers, tailors, makers of buttons and button-moulds, gold- 
 smiths, &c. ; and here are said to have first settled in England silk-throwsters. Among 
 its counterfeit finery was the copper " St. Martin's-lace." Each trade had its quarter j 
 hence Mould-maker's-row, removed in our time ; and Shoemaker's-row, now the west 
 side of St. Martin's-le-Grand; while Dean's, Bell, and Angel alleys denote the old 
 ecclesiastical locality. In 1828, when the site was cleared for the Post-Office, a crypt 
 by William of Wykeham was destroyed. (See CRYPTS, page 303.) Lower down 
 were found remains of the lloman times : coins, beads, glass, and pottery ; amphorae, 
 Samian ware, funeral urns, lachrymatories, &c. : denoting this to have been an im- 
 portant site of Roman London. (See Kempe's St. Martin' s-le- Grand.) 
 
 Among the distinguished residents of Aldersgate-street, in a line with St. Martin's-le-Grand, was 
 Mr., afterwards Sir William, Watson ; at whose house, in 1748, were exhibited the effects of the Leyden 
 phials, then newly invented ; and here the Duke of Cumberland, recently returned from Scotland, took 
 the shock with the point of the sword with which he had fought the battle of Cullodeu. The Gold- 
 headed Cane, p. 115. 
 
 In St. Martin's-le-Grand was the laborer's Inn, of the time of Edward II.; and the Crown Tavern, 
 at the end of Duck-lane, which, in 1709, had a noble room painted with classical subjects. Between 
 Aldersgate and St. Anne's-lane end, was the Mourning Buh, the owner having painted black his carved 
 sign (a bush), after the beheading of Charles I. ; its vaulted cellars, with regular courses of Roman 
 brick, form the foundation of the present New Port-office Coffee Houie. Adjoining these massive re- 
 mains runs a portion of the City wall. 
 
 A MANOR of the hundred of Ossulton, in Middlesex, and the largest parish of 
 London (more than twice the extent of the City, and population greater), was, at 
 the commencement of the last century^a, small village about a mile N.W. from the 
 nearest part of the metropolis. It was originally called Tyburn, or Tybourne, from 
 its being on the bourne, or brook, which runs from Hampstead into the Thames ; and 
 its church being dedicated to St. Mary, the parish was named St. Mary-at-the-bourne, 
 Mary-le-bone, or Marybone. In a record of Henry VIII. it is called Tyborne, alias 
 Maryborne, alias Marybourne (Lysons). It extends northward to Primrose Hill, west 
 to Kilburn turnpike, and south to Oxford-street, inclusive : it is 8y miles in circum- 
 ference, and contains about 1700 acres of land ; of which, till about 1760, two-thirds 
 were chiefly pasture-fields. 
 
 The Manor of Tybourn, valued at 52 shillings in Domesday book, and in King 
 Edward's time at 100 shillings, was exchanged by the then lord, in 1544, with Henry 
 VIII. for certain church lands; it was leased by Queen Elizabeth, in 1583 and 1595, 
 at the yearly rent of 161. Us. 8d. ; in 1611 it was sold by James I. (excepting the 
 parK) for 829Z. 3s. 4<Z. ; in 1710 it was sold for 17,500Z., the rental being then 9001. 
 per annum; and about 1813 the manor passed from the second Duke of Portland to 
 the Crown, by an exchange of land valued at 40,OOOZ. The manor-house, a large 
 gabled building, not unpicturesque, was taken down in 1791. 
 
 Marylebone Park was a hunting-ground in the reign of Queen Elizabeth : in 1600 
 the ambassadors from Russia and their retinue rode through the City to hunt in 
 Marylebone Park ; and here Sir Charles Blount (afterwards Earl of Devonshire), one 
 of the challengers in the Field of Cloth-of-Gold, had a tilt with the Earl of Essex, and 
 wounded him. The park, reserved by James I., was assigned by Charles I. as a 
 security for debt ; but was sold by Cromwell for 13,215Z. 6*. 8d., including deer, and 
 timber, except that marked for the navy. At the Restoration the park was re-assigned, 
 till the debt was discharged. The site had been previously disparked, and was never 
 afterwards stocked ; but was let on leases, upon the expiry of which the ground was 
 relaid out, by Nash, and named Regent's Park. 
 
 O 2
 
 564 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Bowling-greens were also among the celebrities of Marylebone ; where, says the 
 grave John Locke (Diary, 1679), a curious stranger " may see several persons of quality 
 bowling, two or three times a week, all the summer." The bowling-green of the 
 Hose Tavern and gaming-house in High-street is referred to in Lady Mary Wortley 
 Montague's memorable line (see p. 8) ; and it is one of the scenes of Capt. Macheath's 
 debaucheries, in Gray's Beggars' Opera. This and an adjoining bowling-green were 
 incorporated in Marylebone Gardens, open gratis to all classes ; but the company be- 
 coming more select, one shilling entrance-money was charged, an equivalent being 
 allowed in viands. Here were given balls and concerts ; Handel's music was played, 
 under Dr. Arne's direction, followed by fireworks, and in 1772, a model picture of 
 Mount Etna in eruption. Burlettas after Shakspeare were recited in the theatre 
 here in 1774; and in 1776 was exhibited a representation of the Boulevards at Paris, 
 Egyptian Pyramids, &c. : the gardens were suppressed in 1777-8, and the site built 
 upon. 
 
 A deed of assignment made by Thomas Lowe, the singer, conveying his property in Marylebone 
 Gardens, to trustees, for the benefit of his creditors, in 1769, was in the possession of the late Mr. Samp- 
 son Hodgkinson, who was familiar with the parochial history of Marylebone. From this deed we learn 
 that the premises of Rysbraeck, the statuary, were formerly part of the Great (Marylebone) Garden. 
 (See Smith's St. Marylelone, 1833.) 
 
 The orchestra of the Gardens stood upon the site of No. 17, Devonshire-place, nearly 
 opposite the old church described at page 183. 
 
 Chattcrton wrote a burletta, entitled The Revenge, to be performed at Marylebone Gardens ; and that 
 fortunate collector, Mr. Upcott, then librarian of the London Institution, found upon the counter of a 
 cheesemonger's shop in the City, the above drama, in the handwriting of Chatterton, with his receipt 
 given to Henslow, the proprietor of the Gardens, for the copy-money paid for the piece. It was pub- 
 lished by Tom King, the bookseller and book-auctioneer; but its authenticity was doubted. 
 
 Prize-fighting was a pastime of this period, and Marylebone a place at which " to 
 learn valour " (Beggars' Opera). Here was the boarded house of Figg, " the Atlas 
 of the S \vord," whose portrait is in the second plate of Hogarth's Rake's Progress. 
 Near Figg's was Broughton's Amphitheatre, often crowded with amateurs of high 
 rank. In the Evening Post, March 16, 1715 we find : " On Wednesday last, four 
 gentlemen were robbed and stripped in the fields between London and Mary-le-bon." 
 
 Between 1718 and 1729 was built the north side of Tyburn-road, now Oxford-street; 
 and the squares and streets northward were then commenced : still, much of the 
 ground between the new buildings and the village of Marylebone was pasture-fields ; 
 and Maitland, in his History of London, 1739, states there to have been then only 
 577 houses in the parish, and 35 persons who kept coaches. In 1795 there were 6200 
 houses ; in 1861, houses 16,370. 
 
 In 1841 the Vestry of St. Marylebone accepted tenders from certain contractors to the amount of 
 415(M. for permission to cart away the ashes (breeze) from the several houses in this vast parish. 
 
 Marylebone is a parliamentary borough, containing the three parishes of St. Maryle- 
 bone, Paddington, and St. Pancras. (See CHURCHES, St. Marylebone, p. 183.) In 
 the Parish Register is the following entry : " Georgiana Augusta Frederica Elliott, 
 daughter of H.R.H. George, Prince of Wales, and Grace Elliott; born 30 March, and 
 baptized 30 July, 1782." 
 
 MAY FAIE, 
 
 fPHE district north of Piccadilly, and between Park-lane and Berkeley-square, was 
 -1- originally Brookfield ; but received its present name from a fair being held there 
 by grant of James II., after the suppression of St. James's Fair, to commence on 
 May 1, and continue fifteen days ; where multitudes of the booths were " not for trade 
 and merchandize, but for rnusick, showes, drinking, gaming, raffling, lotteries, stage- 
 plays, and drolls." It was frequented "by all the nobility in town;" but was sup- 
 pressed in 1708, when the downfall of May Fair quite sunk the price of Pinkethman's 
 tame elephant, and sent his ingenious company of strollers to Greenwich. (See 
 Tatler, Nos. 4 and 20). The Fair was, however, revived ; and John Carter describes 
 its "booths for jugglers; prize-fighters, both at cudgels and back-sword; boxing- 
 snatches, and wild beasts. The sports not under cover were mountebanks, fire-eaters, 
 ass-racing, sausage-tables, dice ditto, up-and-downs, merry-go-rounds, bull-baiting,
 
 MEWS, ROYAL. 565 
 
 grinning for a hat, running for a shift, hasty-pudding-eaters, eel-divers," &c. The site 
 of the Fair is now occupied by Hertford-street, Curzon-street, Shepherd's Market, 
 &c. ; but the old wooden public-house, The Dog and Duck, with its willow-shaded 
 pond for duck -hunting, is remembered : at fair-time, the second story of the market- 
 house was let for the playhouse. The Fair was not finally abolished until late in the 
 reign of George III. In Curzon-street was " the Rev. Alexander Keith's Chapel," 
 with an entrance like a country church-porch, where marriages at a minute's notice 
 were almost as notorious as at the Fleet 6000 in one year. Keith's charge was one 
 guinea, with a licence on a five-shilling stamp and certificate. The chapel was much 
 frequented during May Fair : here the Duke of Kingston was married to Miss Chud- 
 leigh ; the Baroness Clinton to the Hon. Mr. Shirley ; and James, fourth Duke of 
 Hamilton, in 1752, to the youngest of the two beautiful Miss Gunnings, with a bed- 
 curtain ring, half an hour after midnight. The registers of the May-Fair marriages, 
 in three folio volumes, closely and clearly written, are kept with the parish-books of 
 St. George's, Hanover-square. A minute description of the above district, entitled, 
 "The Fair of May Fair," will be found in Walks and Talks about London; and in 
 London Society, No. 24, with an engraving of the Fair one hundred years ago, from 
 an original drawing. 
 
 MEWS, ROYAL. 
 
 UPON the site of the National Gallery, on the north side of Charing Cross, when 
 falconry was a royal pastime, were kept the King's hawks, in a building called 
 the Mews. In 1319 (13 Edward II.) John De la Becke had the custody of the King's 
 Mews (" de mutis apud Charryng juxta Westmonasterium"). In the reign of 
 Richard II., Sir Simon Burley was Keeper of the King's Falcons; and Chaucer was 
 Clerk of the King's Works, and of the Mews at Charing. In 1534, the royal stables 
 at Lomsbery (since Bloomsbury) were burnt ; after which the hawks were removed 
 from Charing Cross, and the premises rebuilt for the stabling of the King's horses, in 
 the reigns of Edward VI. and Queen Mary ; the building retaining the name of 
 Meios, and public stables assuming the same. Here Colonel Joyce was imprisoned by 
 order of Oliver Cromwell ; beipg carried away by musqueteers and put into the Dutch 
 prison, and removed thence to another chamber in the Mews. It was a gamblers' re- 
 sort : Gay, ill his Trivia, says of " careful observers" : 
 
 " Untempted, they contemn the juggler's feats, 
 Pass by the Meuse, nor try the thimble's cheats." 
 
 In 1732 the fa9<ide was rebuilt from the design of Kent, with three stone cnpolas. 
 Mac Owen Swiney was made Keeper of the Mews ; he had been manager of Drury 
 Lane and the Queen's Theatres, and died in 1754, leaving his fortune to Peg Wot- 
 fington. At the Mews were kept the royal stud, the gilt state-coach, and the other 
 royal carriages, until their removal to the new Mews at Pimlico, in 1824. The build- 
 ing at Charing Cross was occupied, in 1828, as the exhibition-rooms of the National 
 Repository, and by Cross' Menagerie from Exeter Change j and here was temporarily 
 housed a portion of the Public Records. The premises were taken down in 1830, for 
 the site of the National Gallery. The last of the original Mews was occupied as a 
 barrack : it was built of red Tudor brick, with buttresses, and crenellated ; stone 
 window-cases and dressings. 
 
 At the Mews-gate lived for more than forty years "honest Tom Payne" (d. 1799), the bookseller; 
 whose little shop, in the shape of an L, was the first named a literary coffee-house, from its knot of 
 literary frequenters. 
 
 THE QUEEN'S MEWS, at the rear of Buckingham Palace, Queen's-row, Pirnlico, 
 was built in 1824, and consists of two quadrangles, entered by a Doric archway beneath 
 a clock-tower. Visitors are admitted by a ticket from the Master of the Horse. In 
 the first quadrangle are the coach-houses, and in the second the horses. Here are 
 usually forty carriages, besides Her Majesty's state-coach : the dress-carriages are fine 
 specimens of coach-building. The horses include road-teams, saddle-horses, and hacks ; 
 and the dun and black Hanoverian state-horses (generally from twelve to fourteen 
 of each) for the state-coach ; and here are usually kept the foreign horses presented to 
 the sovereign. In the harness-room is the red morocco state-harness for eight horses,
 
 566 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 with massive silver-gilt furniture, the harness for each horse weighing 1 cwt. ; besides 
 the purple morocco state-harness made when George IV. was Regent. 
 
 The Mews Clock has stone dials (6 feet 10 inches in diameter), with the figures sunk (as in the Egyp- 
 tian monuments), and a sunk centre for the hour-hand to traverse, so as to bring the minute-hand close 
 to the figures, and thus avoid nearly all error from parallax an improvement by Vulliamy. 
 
 The Hiding-Some belonged to Buckingham House: here, in 1771, were publicly exhibited the 
 Queen's elephants, from one of which Lindley Murray, the grammarian, had a narrow escape. 
 
 ROYAL MEWS, Prince's-street, Westminster, was huilt hy Decimus Burton, for stables 
 to the House of Commons, upon a space formerly occupied hy a nursery of 200 trees, 
 planted upon the site of the markets and narrow streets on the north side of West- 
 minster Abbey, and removed between 1804 and 1808. Here was kept the Speaker's 
 State Coach (See STATE COACHES). In 1854, the Mews was taken down, and upon 
 its foundations was built the present Stationery Office, by Pennethorne ; the old office, 
 Lord Milford's house, being taken down, and the site added to Birdcage Walk, in 1855. 
 
 MINORIES, THE, 
 
 T EADING from Aldgate High-street to Tower-hill, is named from the " Sorores 
 J-J Minores," " Minoresses," or nuns of the order of St. Clare, founded 1293, whose 
 convent stood in this street : upon its site on the east side, is built the church of the 
 Holy Trinity. The parish was formerly the convent close, and is without the walls of 
 London, although in the Liberty of the Tower of London ; therefore its inhabitants 
 have no vote in the Common Council. In Haydon-square is a spring of pure water, 
 which was the convent fountain; and here lived Sir Isaac Newton when warden and 
 master- worker of the Mint : the house was taken down in 1852. On May 24, 1853, 
 during excavations on the west side of Haydon-square, was found a stone sarcophagus 
 of the late Roman period, sculptured with a basket of fruit, a medallic bust, and foliage, 
 and containing a leaden coffin with the remains of a child : the sarcophagus is now 
 in the British Museum. In the Minories neighbourhood have been found sculptured 
 sepulchral stones and urns, and a third brass coin of Valens. In the churchyard are 
 deposited some bones taken from the field of Culloden in 1745 ; and in the church ia 
 preserved a head, though from what body is unknown. 
 
 The parish of Holy Trinity is minutely described in the ArcTiceologia, in 1803, by 
 the Rev. Dr. Fly, F.S.A., 63 years incumbent of the parish ; and the account was re- 
 printed in 1851 (with additions), by the Rev. T. Hill, incumbent. After the dissolu- 
 tion of the convent, there were built here " storehouses for armour and habiliments of 
 war, with divers workhouses serving to the same purpose " (Stow) : 
 ** The Mulcibers who in the Minories sweat." Congreve. 
 
 The street has been noted for its gunsmiths to our time : and in 1816 their shops 
 were plundered by the Spa Fields rioters on their way to " summon the Tower !" 
 From the Minories station the Blackwall Railway crosses the street by an unsightly 
 enclosed viaduct. 
 
 MINT, THE ROYAL, 
 
 T ONDON, has been the chief seat of the Mint from the remotest period. Some of 
 --^ the Roman emperors are presumed to have coined money here ; but " the silver 
 penny of Alfred," says Ruding, "is the first authentic coin yet discovered which can 
 with certainty be appropriated to the London Mint." The Mint in the Tower dates 
 from the erection of that fortress ; and it has been worked in almost every reign from 
 the Conquest to our own times. The Mint buildings " houses, mills, and engines " 
 used for coining were between the outer and inner ward or ballium, thence named 
 Mint-street. 
 
 The Roman Mint of London has been ably illustrated in a paper read hy Mr. De Salis to the Archaeo- 
 logical Institute, "on the coins issued from A.D. 287 to A.B. 330." He commenced with a description 
 of the early coins of Carausius, which are of inferior workmanship and without mint-marks. These 
 were succeeded during the later part of his reign and that of Allectus, by coins of better fabric, bearing 1 
 the mint-marks of London and Camulodunum, copper only being found of the latter. The coins of 
 Carausius and Allectus were struck between 287 and 296, and all the remaining coins with the mint- 
 marks t, LN, or LON belong to the reign of Constantine. After the restoration in 296, we have, instead 
 of the copper denarius issued by the two usurpers, a larger coin called the follit, which gradually de- 
 creases in size from, say a penny, to a farthing. No gold was issued in London during this period, but 
 there are billon coins with the exergual mark, pur, of Constantine and his sons. Having described the
 
 MINT, THE ROYAL. 567 
 
 coins in issue from 296 to 333, Mr. De Sails remarked that the suppression of the Mint of London was 
 one of the many administrative changes which attended the transfer to the east of the imperial residence. 
 It had become an establishment of little importance, not having coined anything but copper and billon 
 since the downfall of Allectus. A temporary revival of this Mint took place under Magnus Maximus, 
 who rebelled in Britain in 383. There are very rare gold solid! with the mint-mark AVGOB, which are 
 much more likely to belong to Londinium Augusta than to Augusta Trevirorum, of which we have 
 similar coins of the same usurper, marked TBOB and SMTH. No coins with the mint-mark AVGOB have 
 been found of the successors of Magnus Maximus, and it is probable that the Mint of London, which he 
 was obliged to revive after his successful rebellion, was again closed wheu he found himself in posses- 
 sion of the Western Empire after the overthrow of Gratian. 
 
 In the 35th Henry III. the Mint warden's salary was 2s. a day. The constitution of 
 superior officers established in the reign of Edward II., continued with few alterations 
 until 1815. In 1287, 600 Jews were confined within the Tower at one time for 
 clipping and adulterating the coin of the realm. In 1546, one William Foxley, a 
 pot-maker for the Mint, fell asleep in the Tower, and could not be waked for four- 
 teen days and fifteen nights. Some of the Mint officers are buried in the church of 
 St. Peter in the Tower, the chaplain and rector of which, by grant of Edward III., 
 received 10*. from the clerk of the Mint, 13*. 4d. from the master of the Mint, and 
 Id. per week from the wages of each workman and teller of coins. 
 
 Lully, the alchemist, worked " in the chamber of St. Katherine " in the Tower, 
 and was believed to supply the Mint with gold; and Edward* III., Henry VI., and 
 Edward IV. had faith in being able by alchemy to furnish the Mint with cheap gold 
 and silver. In the reign of Edward III., the masters of the Mint were empowered 
 by letters patent to take goldsmiths, smiths, and others, for the works of the Mint in 
 the Tower; and to imprison any rebellious within the said Tower, until the King 
 should determine their punishment ; and this power was not discontinued in the reign 
 of Elizabeth. Before the Reformation, ecclesiastics were sometimes comptrollers : 
 " Should we," says Latimer, " have ministers of the Church to be comptrollers of the 
 Mint ?....! would fain know who comptrolleth the devil at home at his parish, 
 while he comptrolleth the Mint ?" (Sermon, 1548.) During the re-casting of the 
 corrupt coin in the reign of Elizabeth, the queen publicly coined at the Tower several 
 pieces with her own hand, and distributed them among her suite. 
 
 In 1695, Mr., afterwards Sir Isaac Newton, was appointed warden of the Mint ; and 
 in 1699 he was promoted to the mastership, which post he held till his death : his 
 mathematical and chemical knowledge was of great service in this office ; he wrote an 
 official Report on the coinage, and drew up a table of assays of foreign coins. Newton 
 lived some time in Haydon-square, Minories. In 1851 were sold several Mint Curiosi- 
 ties, once possessed by Stanesby Alchorne, king's assay-master : including the standard 
 troy pound, determined by the Mint officers in 1758 ; also Crocker's Register-book of 
 Drawings for Medals, certified by officers of the Mint, and containing thirty autographs 
 cf Sir Isaac Newton, purchased by the British Museum. 
 
 The old Royal Mint disused after the year 1810 occupied but a very small space 
 within the walls of the Tower of London, and was situated at the north-east corner of 
 the fortress. " The whole of the mechanical appliances which were of the rudest 
 character and apparatus for executing the coinage of the realm filled but one room, 
 and that not a particularly large one. The melting department was ridiculously small, 
 and the crucibles used therein were easily moved by hand-power, even when charged 
 with metal. The rolling-mills, of comparatively miniature size, were driven by four 
 horses, ever going their ' weary rounds/ The cutting-out presses, of the most primi- 
 tive kind, and some of which are retained in the new Royal Mint as curiosities, were 
 worked by means of levers and by hand. An implement of a peculiar description 
 called from its shape a ' cow,' was used for raising the protecting edges on the coins, 
 whilst the stamping-presses were put in motion by the muscular strength of gangs of 
 brawny labourers. In the year 1810 the New Mint superseded the Tower Money 
 Factory, and to-day an area of ground as large as that covered by the entire Tower 
 of London itself within its moat boundary is occupied by the workshops, coining- 
 rooms, and offices of the British Mint." Abridged from the Mechanics' Magazine. 
 
 The establishment formerly consisted of a master and worker, deputy-master, comptroller, king's 
 assay master, king's clerk, and superintendent of machinery and dies ; the master assayer, probationer 
 assayer, weigher and teller, surveyor of meltings, surveyor of money-pressers, chief and second engraver, 
 medallist, &c. ; besides the company of moneyers, who had coined the public money from a very early
 
 568 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 period, with exclusive corporate rights. The office of Warden was abolished in 1S17. A new constitu- 
 tion was introduced in 1815, and was changed in 1851 : it is now vested in the master and his deputy, 
 subject to the Treasury. The mastership was formerly a political office : it was last so filled by Richard 
 Lalor Shell; in 1851 was appointed a Master and Worker, Sir John F. W. Herschel, Bart., the astro- 
 nomer, a worthy successor to the office once filled by the illustrious Newton. The operative branch of 
 the Mint consists of the assayer, the melter, and refiner. The moneyers have been abolished, and Go- 
 vernment now coins for the public on its own account ; the Master being the executive head of the 
 establishment. The present Master is Professor Graham, F.E.S., the eminent chemist. 
 
 The present Mint, upon Little Tower-hill, is a handsome stone structure of mixed 
 Grecian and Koman architecture, commenced by Mr. Johnson, and completed by Sir 
 Robert Smirke, between 1806 and 1811 : the cost, including the machinery, was a 
 quarter of a million of money. It was formerly supplied with water through a tunnel 
 from the Tower ditch ; and it was one of the earliest public offices lighted with gas. 
 Upon the site was "sometime a monastery, called New Abbey, founded by King 
 Edward III. in 1359." (Stow.) After the Suppression, was built here the Victualling 
 Office, subsequently tobacco-warehouses. 
 
 At the Mint is executed the coinage of the three kingdoms, and of many of our 
 colonies ; and such is the completeness of the steam machinery by Boulton and Watt, 
 Maudslay and Co., and John and George Rennie, that fifty thousand pounds worth of 
 gold received one morning in bullion may be returned the next in coin, strangely con- 
 trasting with the old method of striking every piece by hand, and carrying on the 
 whole process in a single room. The present stupendous machinery is unequalled in 
 the mint of any other country. The furnaces have long been supplied with smoke- 
 consuming apparatus. The gold and silver being alloyed, are cast into small bars, are 
 passed through powerful rollers, and by the draw-bench brought to the exact thickness 
 required. The circular disks or blanks are then punched out of the sheets of metal 
 by other machines ; and are then separately weighed, sounded, have the protecting rim 
 raised, and are blanched and annealed. The blanks are then taken to the coining-room, 
 and placed in the screw-presses, each of which by the same stroke stamps on both sides, 
 and mills at the edge, thus making a perfect coin : each press will coin between four 
 and five thousand pieces per hour, and feeds itself with the blanks. For the dies a 
 matrix is cut by the Mint engraver in soft steel, which, being hardened, furnishes many 
 dies. In the coining-room are eight presses, which, by the force of a blow of 40 tons 
 weight, impress the face of the Queen, the reverse of the coin, and, at the same time, 
 mill the edge of the coin in the way previously described. From each press, the per- 
 fect sovereigns are thrown off at the rate of sixty-four per minute. At this rate, sup- 
 posing that all the presses could be kept working, a stream of 30,720 sovereigns would 
 run out in an hour. The newly-coined money is now ready for the Trial of the Fix, when 
 one of each coin is placed in a pix or casket, sealed with three seals, and secured with 
 three locks; and the coins are then compared with the trial -plates at Westminster by a 
 jury from the Goldsmiths' Company, the Lord Chancellor, or the Chancellor of the 
 Exchequer, presiding. The early matrices, and the collection of corns and medals, at 
 the Mint, are among its Curiosities. 
 
 The following are the best Mint engravers from the reign of Charles I. to the present time : Briot, 
 Simon, Rawlins, Roettier (3), Croker or Crocker, Tanner, Dassier, Yeo, Natter, Pingo (2), Pistrucci, and 
 the Wyons (3). 
 
 Applications to view the Mint must be made in writing to the Master or Deputy-master; the party 
 of visitors not to exceed six, for whom the applicant is responsible; the order available only for the day 
 specified, and not transferable. 
 
 MINT (THE), SOUTHWARD, 
 
 A LARGE section of the parish of St. George the Martyr, and so called from " a 
 mint of coinage" having been kept here by Henry VIII. It was originally 
 named Suffolk Manor j and opposite St. George's church, upon the site of the premises 
 of Messrs. Pigeon, the distillers, was Suffolk Place, the magnificent mansion of Charles 
 Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, brother-in-law of Henry VIII. This house the Duke gave 
 to the King in exchange for a palace of the Bishop of Norwich in the parish of St. 
 Martiii's-in-the-Fields : it was then called Southwark Place and Duke's Place. In 
 the Sutherland View of London, 1543, it is shown as " ye Mint." 
 
 In the fourth year of Edward VI. (1550) Sir Edward Peckham, Knight was appointed high-treasurer
 
 HINT (THE), SOUTHWARK. 569 
 
 and Sir John Yorke under-treasurer, of this Mint; and in 1551 were issued crowns, half-crowns, 
 shillings, and sixpences, with the mint-mark Y for Sir John Yorke. 
 
 In 1549 Edward VI. came from Hampton Court to visit the Mint, when it was 
 spoken of as " the capital messuage, gardens, and park in Southwark." Southwark 
 had also its Saxon and Norman Mint, A.D. 978 to 1135; and coins of Ethelred II., 
 Canute, Harold, Edward the Confessor, William I. and II., Henry I. and Stephen, 
 with the Southwark mint-mark, are known to collectors. The old Saxon spelling of 
 Southwark was ZVDLUUEKE, Suthgwere ; and on Saxon coins we find it abbreviated 
 ZVD, ZVDL, ZVDLE, ZVDLEUX With the reign of Stephen ceased the power of 
 coining money, granted by the Tower Mint to smaller mints near London, as South- 
 wark, Stepney, &c. The precise site of the original Mint in Southwaik is unknown ; but 
 it was, probably, within the ancient town of Southwark (now the Gnildable Manor) 
 which extended only from St. Mary Overie's Dock, by St. Saviour's Church, to Hay's- 
 lane, and southward to the back of the modern Town Hall. It is conjectured that 
 the Saxon Mint may have been attached to the original Town Hall, nearly opposite 
 the church of St. Olave ,- or, the Southwark Mint may have been under the direction 
 of the early Bishops of Winchester, at or near their manor of the Clink, and who may 
 have been moneyers here, as well as at the Winchester Mint. Of Henry, Bishop of 
 Winton, and the illegitimate brother of King Stephen, there exists a silver penny 
 (the only specimen known), which was bought at the Pembroke sale for 201. 10s., and 
 is now in the British Museum. We cannot suppose the original Southwark Mint to 
 have occupied the site of the Mint in St. George's parish, which was not within 
 the ancient town, and was not " the King's Manoi" until after Henry VIII. had ob- 
 tained it from Cranmer, Archbishop of Canterbury. 
 
 Queen Mary gave the Mint property to Nicholas Heath, Archbishop of York, in 
 recompense for York House, Whitehall, which had been taken from Cardinal Wolsey 
 by Henry VIII. Archbishop Heath sold the Mint in 1557, when a great number of 
 mean dwellings were erected upon the estate; but the mansion was not entirely taken 
 down, or it must have been rebuilt, before 1637, when Aldeiman Bromfield, Lord 
 Mayor of London, resided at Suffolk Place, which he possessed until 1650. 
 
 The Mint is described by Strype as consisting of several streets and alleys ; the 
 chief entrance being from opposite St. George's church by Mint-street, " running into 
 Lombart-street, thence into Suffolk-street, and so into George-street ;" .each entrance 
 having its gate. It became early an asylum for debtors, coiners, a-jd vagabonds ; and 
 of the " ti-aitors, felons, fugitives, outlaws, condemned persons, convict persons, felons 
 defamed, those put in exigent of outlawry, felons of themselves, and such as refuse the 
 law of the land," who in the time of Edward VI. herded in St. George's parish. The 
 Mint at length became such a pes<t, that statutes 8 & 9 William III., and 9 & 11 
 Geo. I., ordered the abolition of its privileges. One of these statutes (9 Geo. I., 
 1723) relieved all those debtors under 501. who had taken sanctuary in the Mint from 
 their creditors : and the Weekly Journal of Saturday, July 20, 1723, thus describes 
 their exodus : 
 
 "On Tuesday last, some thousands of the Winters went out of the land of bondage, alias the Mint, 
 to bs cleared at the quarter session-? at Guildford, accord: jg to the late Act of Parliament. The road 
 was covered with them, insomuch that they looked like one of tte Jewish tribes going out of Egypt ; 
 the cavalcade consisting of caravans, .carts, and wagons, besides numbers on horses, asses, and on foot. 
 The drawer of the Two Fighting-cocks was seen to lead an ass loaded with geneva, to support the spirits 
 of the ladies upon the journey. 'Tis said that several heathen bailiffs lay in ambuscade in ditches upon 
 the road, to surr.rii-e some of them, if possible, on their march, if they should straggle from the main 
 body ; but they proceeded with so much order and discipline, that they did not lose a man upon this 
 expedition." 
 
 The Mint was the retreat of poor poets : 
 
 " Then from the Mint walks forth the man of rhyme." Pope. 
 
 And one of the offences with which Pope reproached his needy antagonists was their 
 " habitation in the Mint." " Poor Nahum Tate" (once poet laureate) died in the 
 Mint in 1716, where he had sought shelter from his rapacious creditors. The place is 
 a scene of Gay's Beggars' Opera; and "Mat of the Mint" figures in Macheath's 
 gang. It was also one of the haunts of Jack Sheppard; and Jonathan Wild kept 
 his horses at the Duke's Head in Red-Cross-street, within the precincts of the Mint. 
 Illicit marriages were also performed here, as in the Fleet Prison, May Fair Chapel, &c.
 
 570 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Officers of justice sent here to serve processes were commonly pumped upon 
 almost to suffocation, and even thrown into "the Black Ditch" of mud and filth. 
 Here is said to have occurred the first case of Asiatic cholera in London in 1832. 
 Much of the district still consists of streets and alleys, of wretched tenements in- 
 habited by an indigent and profligate population; also "lodgings for travellers j" 
 but very few of the old houses remain. 
 
 MONUMENT, THE, 
 
 ON the east side of Fish-street-hill, occupies part of the site of St. Margaret's Church, 
 destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. It was erected by Sir Christopher Wren, 
 between 1671 and 1677 (pursuant to 19 Charles II. c. 3, s. 29), to commemorate the 
 Great Fire and rebuilding of the City : the expense was about 14,500., defrayed out 
 of the Orphans' Fund. The Monument is of the Italo-Vitruvian-Doric order, and is 
 of Portland stone, of which it contains 21,126 solid feet. It consists of a pedestal 
 about 21 feet square, with a plinth 27 feet, and a fluted shaft 15 feet at the base ; on 
 the abacus is a balcony encompassing a moulded cylinder, which supports a flaming 
 vase of gilt bronze, indicative of its commemoration of the Great Fire ; though some 
 repudiating Roman Catholics assert this termination to be intended for the civic cap of 
 maintenance ! Defoe quaintly describes the Monument as " built in the form of a 
 candle," the top making " handsome gilt flame like that of a candle." Its entire 
 height is 202 feet, stated in one of the inscriptions to be equal to its distance eastward 
 from the house where the fire broke out, at the king's baker's, in Pudding-lane. 
 
 On the front of the house, on the east side of Pudding-lane, was a stone with this inscription : 
 "Here, by the permission of Heaven, Hell broke loose upon this Protestant City, from the malicious 
 Hearts of barbarous Papists by the Hand of their agent Hubert, who confessed, and on the Ruins of 
 this Place declared the Fact, for which he was hanged, viz. That here begun that dreadful Fire which 
 is described and perpetuated on and by the Neighbouring Pillar. Erected Anno 1681, in the Mayoralty 
 of Sir Patience Ward, Kt." Hatton, 1708. 
 
 The Monument is loftier than the pillars of Trajan and Antoninus at Rome, or that of 
 Theodosius at Constantinople ; and it is not only the loftiest, but also the finest isolated 
 column in the world. Within is a staircase of 345 black marble steps, opening to the 
 balcony, whence the view of the metropolis, especially of its Port, is very interesting. 
 It was at first used by the members of the Royal Society for astronomical purposes, 
 but was abandoned on account of its vibration being too great for the nicety required 
 in their observations. Hence the report that the Monument is unsafe, which has been 
 revived in our time ; " but," says Elmes, " its scientific construction may bid defiance 
 to the attacks of all but earthquakes for centuries to come." Wren proposed a more 
 characteristic pillar, with flames blazing from the loopholes of the shaft, and figured in 
 brass-work gilt ; a phoenix was on the top rising from her ashes, in brass-gilt likewise. 
 This, however, was rejected; and Wren then designed a statue of Charles II., 15 feet 
 high j* but the king preferred a large ball of metal, gilt ; and the present vase of flames, 
 42 feet high, was adopted: when last triple regilt, it cost 120. On June 15th, 1825, 
 the Monument was illuminated with portable gas, in commemoration of the laying of 
 the first stone of London Bridge : a lamp was placed at each of the loopholes of the 
 column, to give the idea of its being wreathed with flame ; whilst two other series were 
 placed on the edges of the gallery, to which the public were admitted during the evening. 
 The west face or front of the pedestal is rudely sculptured by Caius Gabriel Gibber, in 
 alto and bas-relief: Charles II., be-wigged and he-Romanised, is attended by Liberty, 
 Genius, and Science ; in the background are labourers at work and newly-built houses : 
 and at the King's feet is Envy peering from an arched cell, and blowing flames to re- 
 kindle the mischief. The scaffolding, ladders, and hodmen are more admired for their 
 fidelity than the monarch and his architect. The north and south sides bear Latin 
 
 * A large print of the Monument represents the statue of Charles so placed, for comparative effect, 
 beside a sectional view of the apex, as constructed. Wren's autograph report on the designs for the 
 summit was added to the MSS. in the British Museum in 1852. A model, scale % inch to the foot, of the 
 scaffolding used in building the Monument, is preserved. It formerly belonged to Sir William Cham- 
 bers, and was presented by Heathcote Kussell, C.E., to the late Sir Isambard Brunei, who left it to his 
 son, Mr. I. K. Brunei : the ladders were cf the rude construction of Wren's time, two uprights, with 
 nailoil treads or rounds on the face.
 
 MOOBFIELDS. 571 
 
 inscriptions by Dr. Thomas Gale, afterwards Dean of York ; that on the north record- 
 ing the desolation of the city ; the south its restoration and improvement, and the means 
 employed ; while the east is inscribed with the years in which it was begun and finished, 
 and the names of the Lord Mayors during its erection. Around the base of the 
 pedestal was also the following inscription, beginning at the west : 
 
 (W.) " THIS PILLAR WAS SET VP IN PERPETVAL REMEMBRANCE OF THAT MOST DREADFUL 
 BURNING OF THIS PROTESTANT CS.) CITY, BEGUN AND CARRYED ON BY YE TREACHERY AND 
 MALICE OF YE POPISH FACTIO, IN YE BEGINNING OF SEPTEM IN YE YEAR OF (E ) OUR LORD 
 1666, IN ORDER TO YE CARRYING ON THEIR HORRID PLOTT FOR EXTIRPATING (N.) THE PRO- 
 TESTANT RELIGION AND OLD ENGLISH LIBERTY, AND THE INTRODUCING POPERY AND 
 SLAVERY." 
 
 And the north inscription concluded with : 
 
 " SED FUROR PAPISTICUS QVI TAMDIU PATRAVIT NONDUM RESTINGVITVR." 
 
 These offensive legends are not mentioned by Wren, but were added in 1681, by order 
 of the Court of Aldermen, amid the horror of the Papists spread by the Titus Gates 
 plot. They were obliterated in the reign of James II., but recut deeper still in the 
 reign of William III., and excited Pope's indignant couplet : 
 
 " Where London's column, pointing at the skies, 
 Like a tall bully, lifts the head and lies." 
 
 The legends were ultimately erased (by an Act of Common Council) Jan. 26, 1831. 
 On the cap of the pedestal, at the angles, are four dragons, the supporters of the City 
 arms : these cost 20(W., and were the work of Edward Pierce, jun. Six persons have 
 committed suicide by throwing themselves from the Monument gallery : 1. John 
 Cradock, a baker, July 7, 1788; 2. Lyon Levi, a Jew diamond-merchant, Jan. 18, 
 1810 ; 3. same year, Leander, a baker ; 4. Margaret Moyes, daughter of a baker in 
 Hemming's-row, Sept. 11, 1839 ; 5. Hawes, a boy, Oct. 18, 1839 ; 6. Jane Cooper, a 
 servant-girl, Aug. 19, 1842. To prevent similar deaths, the gallery has been encaged 
 with iron-work, as we now see it. William Green, a weaver, is erroneously recorded 
 as a suicide, June 25, 1750; for, on reaching over the railing, to look at a live eagle 
 kept there in a wooden cage, he accidentally lost his balance, and fell over against the 
 top of the pedestal, thence into the street, and was dashed to pieces. The fall is 
 exactly 175 feet. In 1732, a sailor slid down a rope from the gallery to the Three- 
 Tuns Tavern, Gracechurch-street ; as did also, next day, a waterman's boy. In the 
 Times newspaper of August 22, 1827, there appeared the following burlesque 
 advertisement : 
 
 " Incredible as it may appear, a person will attend at the Monument, and will, for the sum of 25001., 
 undertake to JUMP clear off the said Monument, and in coming down will drink some beer and eat a 
 cake, act some trades, shorten and make sail, and bring ship safe to anchor. As soon as the sum 
 stated is collected, the performance will take place ; and if not performed, the money subscribed to be 
 returned to the subscribers." 
 
 Admittance to the gallery of the Monument from 9 till dusk ; charge reduced, in 
 1851, from 6d. to 3d. each person. In the reign of George I. the charge was 2d. The 
 office of Keeper of the Monument is in the gift of the Corporation of London. 
 
 MOORFIELDS 
 
 IS first mentioned by Fitzstephen (temp. Henry II.) as " the great fen or moor which 
 watereth the walls of the City on the north side," and stretched " from the wall 
 betwixt Bishopsgate and Cripplegate to Fensbury and to Holywell" (Stoiv). When 
 the Moor was frozen, Fitzstephen tells us the young Londoners, by placing the leg-bones 
 of animals under their feet, and tying them round their ankles, by aid of an iron-shod 
 pole, pushed themselves with great velocity along the ice ; and one of these bone-skates, 
 found in digging Moorfields, was in the Museum of Mr. C. Roach Smith, F.S.A., 5, 
 Liverpool-street. In the reign of Edward II., Moorfields was let for four marks a year ; 
 in 1415, the Mayor made a breach in the wall, and built the Moorgate postern. Bricks 
 are stated to have been made here, before any other part of London, in the 17th 
 Edward IV., for repairing the City wall between Aldgate and Aldersgate; when 
 " Moorfields was searched for clay, and bricks were made and burnt there." Facing 
 the wall was a black ditch ; hence " the melancholy of Moorditch." (Shakspeare, Henry
 
 572 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 IV. Part 2.) In 1497, the gardens in Moorfields were made plain; the Moor was 
 drained in 1527, and laid out in walks and planted in 1606. 
 
 Moorfields and Finsbury were the great places for recreative walks ; while all beyond 
 was open ground, stretching right and left to the nearest villages. Moorfields, in the 
 ancient maps, is covered with linen ; and in Thomas Deloney's Crown Garland of 
 Golden Hoses, may be seen the ballad history of " the two ladies of Finsbury that gave 
 Moorfields to the City, for the maidens of London to dry clothes in," and where he says : 
 
 " Now are made most pleasant walks 
 That great contentment yield :" 
 
 while Finsbury fields was the great school of archery, from the time when every man 
 was enjoined by law to " draw a good bow and shoot a good shot," until the entire 
 decay of the science. 
 
 There is a curious tract on Moorfields, published by Henry Gosson, in 1607, entitled 
 " The Pleasant Walks of Moorfields : being the gift of two sisters, now beautified to 
 the continuing fame of this worthy city," and is the work of Richard Johnson, author 
 of " Look on me, London." The laying out and planting the fields are here minutely 
 described. This tract has been reprinted by Mr. Payne Collier. 
 
 Evelyn, recording the Great Fire, says the houseless people took refuge about Moor- 
 fields, under tents and miserable huts and hovels ; and Pepys found Moorfields full of 
 people, and " poor wretches carrying their goods there ;" next year the fields were built 
 upon and paved. On the south side was erected Bethlehem Hospital in 1675-6 (see 
 pp. 51-54), which-has disappeared in our time, with the long line of furniture-dealers' 
 shops from the north side. 
 
 " Through fam'd Moorfields extends a spacious seat, 
 Where mortals of exalted wit retreat ; 
 Where, wrapp'd in contemplation and in straw, 
 The wiser few from the mad world withdraw." 
 
 Gay to Mr. Thomas Snow, Goldsmith, near Temple Bar. 
 
 Under Bethlehem wall, in 1753-4, Elizabeth Canning, by her own testimony, was 
 seized, robbed, and gagged; thence dragged to Mother Wells' s at Enfield Wash, and 
 there nearly starved to death ; but the whole story was a hoax. 
 
 The Moor reached from London Wall to Hoxton ; and a thousand cartloads of human 
 bones brought from St. Paul's charnel-house in 1549, and soon after covered with 
 street-dirt, became so elevated, that three windmills were built upon it. (Aggas's 
 plan shows three windmills on the site of Finsbury-square : hence Windmill-hill, now 
 street.) The ground on the south side being also much raised, it was named Upper 
 Moorfields. On the north of the fields stood the Dogge-house, where the Lord Mayor's 
 hounds were kept by the Common Hunt : hence " Dog-house Bar," City -road. East- 
 ward the Moor was bounded by the ancient hospital and priory of Bethlehem, separated 
 by a deep ditch, now covered by Blom field- street. The lower part of the fields was 
 paled into four squares, each planted with elm-trees, round a grass-plat, and intersected 
 by broad gravel-walks ; a favourite promenade in evenings and fine weather, and called 
 " the City Mall ;" where beaux wore their hats diagonally over their left or right eye, 
 hence called " the Moorfields cock." Here was the Foundry at which, previous to the 
 year 1706, the brass ordnance for the British Government was cast. Near the Foundry 
 Whitefield built his Tabernacle (see p. 223). It was roofed with pan-tiles. 
 
 Moorfields was, till near Pennant's time, the haunt of low gamblers, the great 
 gymnasium of our capital, the resort of wrestlers, boxers, arid football players. Here 
 mountebanks erected their stages, and dispensed infallible medicines to the gaping gulls. 
 Here, too, field-preachers set up their itinerant pulpits, beneath the shade of the trees; 
 and here the pious, well-meaning Whitefield preached so winningly, as to gain from a 
 neighbouring charlatan the greater number of his admirers. 
 
 Moorgate was erected opposite the site of Albion Chapel, at the south-west angle of 
 the fields, and was rebuilt in 1672 ; the central gateway higher than usual, for the 
 City Trained Bands to march through it with their pikes erected. The fields are now 
 cove-red by Finsbury-square and Circus, and adjoining streets : the name survives in 
 " Little Moorfields," and it has been revived in Moorgate-street. Until comparatively 
 modern times, Moorfields was an open space, uniting with the Artillery-ground (see 
 p. 21) and Bunhill-fields (see p. 75).
 
 MUSEUM, THE BRITISH. 573 
 
 In Finsbury-place was " the Temple of the Muses," built by James Lackington, the celebrated book- 
 seller, who came to London in 1773 with only half-a-crown in his pocket. In 1792 he cleared 50001. by 
 
 the Nineteenth Century. Lackington's " Temple." which was a vast building, was destroyed by fire in 
 1811. 
 
 Moorfields has a sort of ideal association with the notorious " Calves'-Head Club." 
 
 In a blind alley about Moorfields met the Calves'-Head Club, where an axe hung up in the Club- 
 room, and was reverenced as a principal symbol in this diabolical sacrament. Their great feast of 
 Calves' heads was held the 30th of January (the anniversary of the martyrdom of King Charles I.), the 
 Club being erected " by an impudent set of people, in derision of the day, and defiance of monarchy." 
 Their bill of fare was a large dish of calves' heads, dressed several ways ; a large pike, with a small one 
 in his mouth, as an emblem of tyranny; and a large cod's head, to represent the person of the King 
 (Charles I.) singly, as by the calves' heads before they had done him together with all them that suffered 
 in his cause ; and a boar's head, with an apple in its mouth, to represent the king by this as bestial, as 
 by the others they had done foolish and tyrannical. After the repast the EiTcon Sasililce was burnt, 
 anthems were sung, and the oath was sworn upon Milton's Defensio Populi Anglicani. The company 
 consisted of Independents and Anabaptists ; Jerry White, formerly chaplain to Oliver Cromwell, said 
 grace; and the table-cloth being removed, the Anniversary Anthem, as they impiously called it, was 
 sunsr, and a calf's skull filled with wine or other liquor, and then a brimmer went about to the pious 
 memory of those worthy patriots that had killed the tyrant, &c. (See the Secret History of the Caloei'* 
 Head Club, 6th edit. 1706.) 
 
 But the whole affair of the Calves'-Head Club was a hoax, kept alive by the pre- 
 tended Secret History. An accidental riot, following a debauch on one 30th of January, 
 has been distributed between two successive years, owing to a misapprehension of the 
 mode of reckoning prevalent in the early part of the last century ; and there is no more 
 reason for believing in the existence of a Calves'-Head Club in 1734-5 than there is for 
 believing that it exists in 1867. (See Club Life of London, vol. i. pp. 25-34. 18G6.) 
 
 Coleman-street, named from its builder, was originally part of the " Lower Walks of 
 Moorfields :" it gives name to the Ward. In a house in this street were received and 
 harboured the Five Members accused of treason by Charles I. At the Star tavern, in 
 Coleman-street, Oliver Cromwell and several of his party occasionally met, as given in 
 evidence on the trial of Hugh Peters. In a conventicle in Swan-alley, Venner, a wine- 
 cooper and Millenarian, preached to the soldiers of King Jesus : an insurrection followed, 
 and Venner was hanged and quartered in Coleman-street, Jan. 19, 1660-61. The 
 Cambridge carrier put up at the Bell, in Coleman-street, 1637 ; and in Great Bell Yard, 
 Bloomfield, author of the Farmer's Boy, worked as a shoemaker. Justice Clement, in 
 Ben Jonson's Every Man in his Humour, lived in Coleman-street ; and Cowley wrote 
 a comedy called Cutter of Colaman-street, 1721. 
 
 MUSEUM, THE BRITISH, 
 
 GREAT Russell-street, Bloomsbury, occupies the site of Montague House, built for 
 Ralph Montague, first Baron Montague, of Boughton, by Robert Hooke, the cele- 
 brated mathematician and horologist. Evelyn describes it, in 1679, as " Mr. Montague's 
 new palace neere Bloomsberry, built somewhat after the French pavilion way," with 
 ceilings painted by Verrio. On Jan. 19, 1686, it was burnt to the ground, through the 
 carelessness of a servant "airing some goods by the fire;" the house being at the time 
 let by Lord Montague to the Earl of Devonshire. Lady Rachel Russell, in one of her 
 letters, describes the sparks and flames covering Southampton House and filling the 
 court. The loss is stated at 40,000., besides 6000?. in plate; and Lord Devonshire's 
 pictures, hangings, and furniture. The mansion was rebuilt upon the foundations and 
 burnt walls of the former one, the architect being Peter Puget. La Fosse painted the 
 ceilings, Rousseau the landscapes and architecture, and Jean Baptiste Monnoyer the 
 flowers. Lord Montague, who in 1705 was created Marquis of Monthermer and Duke 
 of Montague, died here in 1709 ; his son resided here until his mansion was completed 
 at Whitehall. Montague House was built on the plan of a first-class French hotel, of 
 red brick, with stone dressings, lofty domed centre, and pavilion-like wings. In front 
 was a spacious court, inclosed with a high wall, within which was an Ionic colonnade, 
 the principal entrance being in the centre, by the " Montague Great Gate," beneath a 
 picturesque octangular lantern, with clock and cupola ; and at each extremity of the 
 wall was a square lantern. The old mansion was removed between 1845 and 1852,
 
 574 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 when portions of the painted walls and ceilings, La Fosse's deities, and Baptiste's 
 flowers, were preserved, and sold with the materials. 
 
 Montague House and gardens occupied seven acres. In the latter, in 1780, were encamped the 
 troops stationed to quell the Gordon Riots ; and a print of the period shows the gardens in the rear of 
 the mansion, laid out in grass terraces, flower-borders, grass-plots, and gravel-walks, where the gay 
 world resorted on a summer's evening : the back being open to the fields, extending west to Lisson- 
 green and Paddington ; north to Primrose Hill, Chalk Farm, Hampstead, and Highgate ; and east to 
 Battlebridge, Islington, St. Pancras, &c. On the side of the garden next Bedford-square was a fine 
 grove of elm-trees ; and the gardens of Bedford House, in Bloomsbury-square, reached to those of the 
 British Museum, before that house was taken down, and Russell-square and the adjacent streets were 
 built on its site. (See FIELD ov FOETY FOOTSTEPS, page 337.) 
 
 The British Museum has been the growth of a century, between the first purchase 
 for the collection in 1753, and the near completion of the new buildings in 1853. The 
 Museum originated in a suggestion in the will of Sir Hans Sloane (d. 1753), offering 
 his collection to parliament for 20,0002., it having cost him 50,0002. The oifer was 
 accepted; and by an Act (26th George II.) were purchased all Sir Hans Sloane's 
 " library of books, drawings, manuscripts, prints, medals, seals, cameos and intaglios, 
 precious stones, agates, jaspers, vessels of agate and jasper, crystals, mathematical 
 instruments, pictures," &c. By the same Act was bought, for 10,0002., the Harleian 
 Library of MSS. (about 7600 volumes of rolls, charters, &c.) ; to which were added the 
 Cottonian Library of MSS., and the library of Major Arthur Edwards. (See LIBRARIES, 
 page 519.) By the same Act also was raised by lottery 100,0002., out of which the 
 Sloane and Harleian collections were paid for ; 10,2502. to Lord Halifax for Montague 
 House, and 12,8732. for its repairs ; a fund being set apart for the payment of taxes 
 and salaries of officers. Trustees were elected from persons of rank, station, and literary 
 attainments; and the institution was named the BRITISH MFSETJM. There had also 
 been offered Buckingham House, with the gardens and field, for 30,0002. ; and at one 
 time it was proposed to deposit the Museum in Old Palace-yard, in the place designed 
 by Kent for new Houses of Parliament. To Montague House were removed the 
 Harleian collection of MSS. in 1755; other collections in 1756; and the Museum was 
 opened to the public January 15, 1759. At first the Museum was divided into three 
 departments, viz. Printed Books, Manuscripts, and Natural History ; the increase of 
 collections soon rendered it necessary to provide additional accommodation for them, 
 Montague House proving insufficient. The present by George III. of Egyptian 
 Antiquities, and the purchase of the Hamilton and Townley Antiquities, made it more 
 imperative to create an additional department that of Antiquities and Art to which 
 were united the Prints and Drawings, as well as the Medals and Coins previously 
 attached to the Library of Printed Books and Manuscripts. Next, in 1816, was 
 provided temporary shelter fat the Elgin Marbles, this being the last addition to 
 Montague House. 
 
 When, in 1823, the Library collected by George III. was presented to the nation 
 by George IV., it became necessary to erect a building to receive it. It was then 
 decided to have "an entirely new edifice to contain the whole of the Museum collections, 
 including the ^recently acquired Library. Sir Robert Smirke, R.A., the architect, 
 accordingly prepared plans. The eastern side of the present structure was completed in 
 1828, and the Royal Library was then deposited in it. The northern, southern, and 
 western sides of the building were subsequently erected, Montague House being re- 
 moved piecemeal as the new buildings progressed, so that the Museum was not closed 
 for the rebuilding. Mr. Sydney Smirke, in 1846, succeeded his brother, Sir Robert, 
 as architect to the Museum. The plan consists of a courtyard, flanked east and west 
 with the official apartments. The main buildings form a quadrangle, upon the ground 
 of the gardens of Montague House. The architecture throughmit the exterior is 
 Grecian- Ionic. The southern fa?ade consists of the great entrance portico, eight 
 columns in width, and two intercolumniations in projection ; on either side is an ad- 
 vancing wing : entire front 370 feet, surrounded by a colonnade of 44 columns, 5 feet at 
 their lower diameter, and 45 feet high ; height of colonnade from the pavement 64 
 feet. At the foot of the portico are 12 stone steps, 120 feet in width, terminating 
 with pedestals for colossal groups of sculpture. " Since the days of Trajan or Hadrian, 
 no such stones have been used as those recently employed at the British Museum, where 
 800 stones, from 5 to 9 tons weight, form the front. Even St. Paul's contains no ap-
 
 MUSEUM, THE BRITISH. 575 
 
 proach to these magnitudes." (Prof. Coctcerell's Lectures, 1850.) The tympanum of 
 the pediment is enriched with a group allegorical of the " Progress of Civilization," 
 and thus described by the sculptor, Sir Richard Westmacott, E.A. : 
 
 rude ^ . __ o 
 
 ship 
 
 ^ r Ai U I'h e . have made considerable progress. Descending towards the eastern angle of the pediment 
 is Mathematics, in allusion to Science being now pursued on known sound principles. The Drama, 
 oetry, and Music balance the group of the Fine Arts on the western side, the whole composition ter- 
 minating with Natural History, in which such subjects or specimens only are represented as could be 
 de most effective in sculpture." The crocodile is emblematic of the cruelty of man in savage life the 
 tortoise of his slow progress to civilization. The figure of Astronomy is 12 feet high, and weighs between 
 7 and 8 tons. The several figures are executed in Portland-stone, and the decorative accessories are gilt. 
 
 The ornamental gates and railing inclosing the courtyard were commenced in model 
 by Lovati, who died before he had made much progress ; they were completed by Mr. 
 Thomas and Messrs. Collmann and Davis. The railing spears painted dark copper, 
 with the heads gilt, and with an ornamented band is raised upon a granite curb. In 
 the centre of the railing is a grand set of carriage-gates and foot-entrances, strengthened 
 by fluted columns with composite capitals, richly gilt, surmounted by vases. The frieze 
 is wholly of hammered iron : the remainder of the iron-work is cast from metal moulds, 
 and was chiefly piece-moulded, in order to obtain relief. The carriage-gates are moved 
 by a windlass, both sides opening simultaneously. Each half of these gates weighs up- 
 wards of five tons. The height of the iron-work is 9 feet to the top rail : the length 
 of the whole palisade is about 800 feet. The metal- work was contracted for by Walker, 
 of York, and cost nearly 8000?. Upon the granite gate-piers are to be placed sitting- 
 statues of Bacon and Newton, and upon the two end piers Milton and Shakspeare. 
 The buildings have altogether cost upwards of 800,OOOZ. 
 
 As you stand beneath the portico, the effect is truly majestic, and you are impressed 
 with the feeling that this is a noble institution of a great country. The principal en- 
 trance is by a carved oak door, 9 feet 6 inches in width, and 24- feet in height. The 
 hall is Grecian-Doric. The ceiling, trabeated and deeply coffered, is enriched with 
 Greek frets and other ornaments in various colours, painted in encaustic. Here are 
 three marble statues : the Hon. Mrs. Darner, holding a small figure of the Genius of 
 the Thames ; Shakspeare, by Eoubiliac ; and Sir Joseph Banks, Bart., by Chantrey. 
 The statue of Shakspeare was bequeathed by Garrick to the Museum after the death of 
 his widow ; the statue of Sir Joseph Banks was presented by his personal friends. Be- 
 tween these statues is the doorway to the Grenville Library. East of the hall is 
 the Manuscripts Department; west, the principal staircase (with carved vases of 
 Huddlestone stone), and a gallery which forms the approach to the Collection of 
 Antiquities. 
 
 To inspect the several collections in the order in which they are described in the" official Guide, the 
 visitor will ascend to the upper floor by the principal staircase, and enter the exhibition rooms of the 
 Zoological Department. These-rooms form part of the southern, the whole of the eastern, and part of 
 the northern sides of the upper floor. The Minerals and Fossils which are next described, are contained 
 in the remaining part of the northern side. The Botanical exhibition is displayed in two rooms in the 
 southern front of the building, which are entered by a doorway on the eastern side of the Central Saloon 
 in the Zoological Department. Following still the order of the Guide, the visitor will descend the prin- 
 cipal stairs to the hall, and enter the Department of Antiquities by the doorway near the south-western 
 angle. The Antiquities occupy the whole of the western parts of the ground floor, several rooms con- 
 nected therewith on the basement, and the western side of the upper floor. On the lower floor, the eastern 
 portion of the south front, and part of the east wing, is the Library of Manuscripts. The remainder of 
 the east side, and the whole of the northern side of the quadrangle, are occupied by the Printed Books. 
 
 The entrance to the Grenville room is on the eastern side of the hall, under the clock. In this room 
 is deposited the splendid library bequeathed to the nation in 1847 by the Right Hon. Thomas Grenville, 
 a marble bust of whom, by Comolli, stands in a recess on the southern side. Here, as well as in the Koyal 
 library, are exhibited various printed books, selected to show the progress of the art of printing, with 
 specimens of ornamental and curious binding. From the Grenville library the visitor proceeds to the 
 Manuscript Saloon, where selections of manuscripts, charters, autographs, and seals are arranged for 
 inspection. The visitor next enters the Eoyal library, and here, besides the printed books already 
 mentioned, are exhibited some interesting and valuable specimens from the department of prints and 
 drawings. 
 
 THE ZOOLOGICAL COLLECTIONS. Specimens from the existing classes of Animals 
 are contained in three Galleries ; and are arranged in two series. The Beasts, Birds,
 
 576 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Eeptiles, and Fishes are exhibited in the Wall Cases. The hard parts of the Radiated, 
 Molluscous, and Annulose Animals, (as Shells, Corals, Sea Eggs, Starfish, Crustacea,) 
 and Insects, and the Eggs of Birds, are arranged in a series in the Table-Cases of the 
 several Rooms. 
 
 The General Collection of Mammals, or Beasts which suckle their young, is arranged 
 in three Rooms, the Hoofed Beasts (Ungulatd) being contained in the Central Saloon 
 and Southern Zoological gallery, and the Beasts with claws ( Unguiculuta) in the Mam- 
 malia Saloon. 
 
 Central Saloon. In the Cases the specimens of the Antelopes, Goats, and Sheep ; 
 and the Bats, or Cheiroptera. Some of the larger Mammalia are placed on the floor, 
 such as the Giraffes, and the Morse or Walrus. Also, the full-grown male Gorilla, of 
 the female, and of a young male, from the Gaboon, Equatorial Africa ; horns of Oxen. 
 
 Southern Zoological Gallery. In Cases, the continuation of the collection of the 
 Hoofed Quadrupeds, as the Oxen, Elands, Deer, Camels, Llamas, Horses, and the va- 
 rious species of Swine. Here also are placed the species of Armadillo, Manis, and Sloth. 
 On the Wall Cases are the horns of Antelopes, and on the floor are arranged the dif- 
 ferent Rhinoceros, Indian Elephant ; a very young African Elephant, remarkable for 
 the large size of its ears ; specimens of the young, half-grown, and adult Hippopotamus, 
 and the wild Oxen from India and Java. Here is the aurochs, or shaggy-maned 
 Lithuanian Bison, presented by Nicholas, Emperor of Russia, and said to be the finest 
 specimen of stuffing in the Museum. Above the bison of the prairies is the ornitho- 
 rhyncus, with a bird-like bill, the water-mole of Australia. 
 
 Mammalia Saloon. In the Cases are the specimens of Handed, Rapacious, Glirine, 
 and Pouched Beasts ; over the Cases are the different kinds of Seals, Manatees, and 
 Porpoises ; and arranged in Table Cases are the general collections of Corals. 
 
 Eastern Zoological Gallery, 300 feet long and 50 feet wide. The general collection 
 of Birds; the collection of Shells of Molluscous animals, and a series of horns of Deer 
 and Rhinoceros. Here is a Reeves's Chinese pheasant (tail-feathers 5 feet 6 inches 
 long) ; and next the ostriches are a Dutch painting of the extinct dodo, a foot of the 
 bird supposed to be more than two and a half centuries old, and a cast of the head ; 
 also, a specimen of the rare apteryx, or wingless bird of New Zealand. 
 
 Above the Wall Cases are 116 portraits of sovereigns, statesmen, heroes, travellers, and men of science, 
 a few from the Slpanean and Cottonian collections : including two portraits of Oliver Cromwell (one 
 a copy from an original possessed by a great-grandson of Cromwell; the other an original presented by 
 Cromwell himself to Nath. Eich, a colonel in the parliamentary army, and bequeathed to the Museum, 
 in 1784, by Sir Robert Eich, Bart.) ; three portraits of Mary Queen of Scots, Bichard II., Edward 111., 
 Henry V., Edward VI., Queen Elizabeth, James I., Charles I. and II., &c. ; three portraits of Sir Hans 
 Sloane ; Peter I. of Russia, Stanislaus Augustus I. of Poland, Charles XII. of Sweden, and Louis XIV. of 
 France ; Lord Bacon ; the poets Pope and Prior ; Dr. John Bay, the first great English naturalist ; 
 Gesrge Buchanan, 1581, on panel; Sir Francis Drake and Captain Dampier; Martin Luther, 1546, on 
 panel ; Gutenberg, the inventor of printing ; Bichard Baxter, the Nonconformist ; Vesalius, by Sir 
 Antonio More ; Mary Davis, 1688, " setatis 74," with a horn-like wen on her head; Sir Bobert Cotton, 
 Dr. Birch, Humphrey Wanley, Sir H. Spelman, and Sir W. Dugdale ; Camden, on panel ; Thomas Britton, 
 the musical small-coal-man ; Andrew Marvell, said to be the only portrait extant of him ; &c. This is, 
 probably, the largest collection of portraits in the kingdom: many are ill-painted, others very curious, 
 and some unique; the majority of them had long lain in the lumber-lofts of the old Museum, when they 
 were hung up, chiefly at the suggestion of the late Mr. William Smith, of Lisle-street. A very interesting 
 catalogue raisonnee of these pictures appeared in the Times, Nov. 27 and Dec. 8, 1838. 
 
 Northern Zoological Gallery five rooms : 1. Nests of Birds and Insects ; larger Rep- 
 tiles ; rarest small Quadrupeds ; the Aye-aye of Madagascar ; 3. British Zoological Col- 
 lection the Vertebrated Animals ; the larger species, such as the Whales, Sharks, Tunny, 
 &c., are suspended on the Walls, or placed on the Cases ; the eggs of the Birds ; a series of 
 British Annulose Animals j the stuffed exotic Reptiles and Batrachia; the hard parts of 
 the Radiated Animals, including the Sea-Eggs, Sea-Stars, and Encrinites; 4. The stuffed 
 collection of exotic bony Fish; select specimens of Annulose Animals; Insects Beetles, 
 Praying Mantis, Walking Stick, and Leaf Insects, White Ants, Wasps and Bees, 
 Butterflies, Spiders, Crustacea; 5. The exotic Cartilaginous Fish, such as the voracious 
 Sharks ; the Rays ; the Torpedo or Numb-fish ; Sturgeons ; the saws of various Saw-fish, 
 and larger Sponges. 
 
 North Gallery. Fossil Remains in six rooms, partly in Zoological order and partly
 
 MUSEUM, THE BRITISH. 
 
 577 
 
 REFERENCE. 
 
 . Portico. 2. Entrance hall, 
 
 s . Principal staircase. 
 
 4. Grenville library. 
 
 5. Manuscript saloon. 6. Royal library. 
 7. Lobby & JT.E. staircase to upper floor. 
 
 IS 17 19 25 
 
 REFERENCE. 
 a. Principal staircase. 
 
 ZOOLOGICAL COLLECTIONS. 
 Central saloon. 
 Southern Zoological gallery. 
 Mammalia saloon- 
 Eastern Zoological gallery. 
 Lnrties' cloak room. 
 N.E. staircase to around floor. 
 Northn. Zoological gallery. 1 st room 
 
 > ., 2nd 
 
 MINERALS AND FOSSILS. 
 11. Room I. 
 
 II. 
 IU- I North Gallery. 
 
 17. 18. BOTANICAL ROOMS. 
 
 DEPARTMENT OP ANTIQUITIES. 
 10. N.W. staircase & Egypt, anteroom 
 .0. First Egypt, room. 21. Second do 
 :2. First vase room. 23. Second do 
 J4. Bronze room. 
 f5. British and Mediaeval room. 
 it). Ethnographical room. 
 
 1'P
 
 578 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 in Geological sequence. 1. Plants. 2. Fishes, arranged chiefly after Agassiz. 3. 
 Reptilian Remains : Frog, Tortoise, and Crocodile ; the Iguanodon and Megalosaums ; 
 gigantic Salamander, mistaken for a human skeleton; remains of Iguanodon, 70 
 feet long, from Tilgate Forest, Sussex ; of the Hylseosaurus, or Wealden lizard ; and the 
 Plesiosaurus ; the E-pyornis, extinct wingless bird from Madagascar, remains referred 
 "by Professor Owen to distinct genera, some of which are still living in New Zealand, 
 whilst others are, most probably, extinct. Amongst the living species may be noticed 
 the Notornis Manteili, a very large species of the Rail family. The Dinornis, wing- 
 less, and gigantic, from 10 to 11 feet in height, Ijicynodon from South Africa, with two 
 large descending tusks ; enormous Tortoise from India. 4. Reptilian Remains; birds 
 .and Marsupials. 5. Mammalian Remains : corals, mollusca, nummulites, stone lilies, 
 sea urchins, worms, insects, Crustacea, trilobites, fossil shells. 6. Edentata and 
 Pachydermata : skeleton of the Megatherium; Elephant, and Mastodon; cast of the 
 skeleton of the Megatherium Americanurn, found in Buenos Ayres; fossil human 
 skeleton from Guadaloupe, &c. In Saurian Fossils the Museum is eminently rich ; as 
 well as in gigantic osseous remains ; and impressions of vegetables, fruit, and fish. 
 
 Mineral Collection, mostly on Berzelius's system, in four rooms : mass of Meteoric 
 Iron (14001bs.) from Buenos Ayres ; native Silver from Konsberg ; trunk of a tree con- 
 verted into semi-opal ; large mass of Websterite from Newhaven ; Tortoise sculptured 
 in Nephrite, or Jade, from the banks of the Jumna ; Esquimaux knife and harpoon, of 
 meteoric iron ; a large collection of Meteoric Stones chronologically arranged. Here, 
 also, are Diamonds of various forms, and models of celebrated diamonds. The collection 
 is superior to any in Europe, and includes a splendid cabinet of minerals from the Harz 
 Mountains. 
 
 THE BOTANICAL OB BANKSIAN DEPARTMENT contains the Herbaria of Sir Hans 
 Sloane (336 vcl imes bound in 262) ; the Herbaria of Plukenet and Petiver ; collections 
 from those of Merret, Cunningham, Hermann, Robart, Bernard de Jussieu, Tournefort, 
 Scheuchzer, Kamel, Vaillant, Ksempfer, Catesby, Houston, and Boerhaave ; the Plants 
 presented to the Royal Society by the Company of Apothecaries from 1722 to 1796, as 
 rent paid by the Company for the Botanic Garden at Chelsea. Also the Herbarium 
 of the Baron de Moll ; the Herbarium of Sir Joseph Banks, mostly in cabinets, nearly 
 30,000 species, including Sir Joseph's collections upon his voyage with Captain Cook, 
 and the Plants collected in subsequent voyages of discovery ; Loureiro's Plants from 
 Cochin China ; an extensive series presented by the East India Company ; Egyptian 
 Plants, presented by Wilkinson, &c. The Flowers and Fruits preserved in spirits, and 
 the dried Seeds and Fruits, are fine ; as are also the various specimens of Woods. 
 
 DEPARTMENTS OP ANTIQUITIES. The collections are divided into two series. The 
 first, consisting of Sculpture, including Inscription and Architectural remains, occupies the 
 Ground Floor of the South-western and Western portions of the building ; and to this 
 division have been added some rooms in the basement Assyria and other countries. 
 The second series, placed in a suite of rooms on the Upper Floor, comprehends all the 
 smaller remains, of whatever nation or period, such as Vases and Terra-cottas, Bronzes, 
 Coins, and Medals, and articles of personal or domestic use. To the latter division are 
 attached the Ethnographical specimens. The four principal series of Sculptures are the 
 Roman, including the mixed class termed Grseco-Roman, the Hellenic, the Assyrian, and 
 the Egyptian at right angles to the Roman. To the left of the Hall, on entering the 
 building, is the Roman Gallery. On the South side are miscellaneous Roman anti- 
 quities discovered in this country, belonging to British Antiquities. On the opposite 
 side is the series of Roman Iconographical or portrait Sculptures, whether statues or busts. 
 
 In 1864 were added nine statues from the Farnese Palace at Rome, purchased from the ex-king of 
 Naples, for 4000?. These statues are : 1. A Mercury, nearly identical in pose and scale with the cele- 
 brated statue in the Belvedere of the Vatican. 2. An equestrian statue of a Roman Emperor of heroic 
 size. The head is that of a Caligula, but doubts have been entertained whether it belongs to the body : 
 this group is in very fine condition, and especially interesting, as being one of the very few equestrian, 
 statues which have been preserved to us from antiquity. 3. The celebrated and unique copy of the 
 Diadumenos of Polycletus. This figure, engraved in K. O. Miiller's Denkmaler d. a. Kunit, taf. xxxi. 
 No. 136, represents a Greek athlete binding a diadem round his head, whence the name Diadumenos : 
 used as a canon of proportions in the ancient schools, and which, at a later period, sold for the enormous 
 sum of 100 talents, equal to 25.000Z. 4. An Apollo playing on the lyre, in the same attitude as the 
 beautiful statue from Cyrene, in the British Museum, but naked. 6. An heroic figure, possibly a King 
 of the Macedonian period in the character of a Deity. 7. A Satyr holding up a basket in which is an
 
 3U8SUJ, THE BRITISH. 579 
 
 Amorino. The two remaining statues are a group of Mercury and Hers^. An interesting notice of 
 these statues, from the pen of Professor Gerhard, of Berlin, is to be found in Bunsen's great work on 
 the Topography of Rome. 
 
 Also, a bronze lamp found on the site of Julian's palace, probably of a date prior to the Christian era. 
 and considered to be Greek a most beautiful work. 
 
 British and Anglo-Roman Remains Tessellated pavements, Roman altars, sarco- 
 phagi, Roman pigs of lead; tessellated pavements from the Bank of England and 
 Threadneedle-street and other parts ; Roman mill fragments from Trinity House-square, 
 and a sarcophagus from Haydon-square. 
 
 In 1864, were added 2000 objects, connected with the first or early appearance of 
 man on this earth, as flint implements, or weapons found in the drift, a section of a 
 Danish Kjokkenmodding, relics from caves of the South of France, implements of bone, 
 engraving and sculpture on hone and horn, remains of the Stone Period, bronze im- 
 plements, celts and arrow-heads, bronze figures of animals, Roman remains all ex- 
 tremely interesting to the antiquary and geologist, &c. Also, the Collection of Remains 
 found in the cavern at Abbeville, with specimens of the cave bones and stones, illus- 
 trating the Antiquity of Man. 
 
 Greco-Roman Rooms. Statues and bas-reliefs by Greek artists, or from Greek 
 originals; busts of mythological, poetical, and historical personages; statues and busts 
 of Roman emperors ; architectural and decorative sculptures and bas-reliefs ; sepulchral 
 monuments, Etruscan, Greek, and Roman; Roman altars; pavement from Carthage; 
 bas-relief of Jupiter and Leda ; the group of Mithra ; the Rondini Faun ; torso of 
 Venus, from Richmond House ; bas-relief of the Apotheosis of Homer, cost 10001. ; 
 Persepolitan marbles, presented by Sir Gore Ouseley and the Earl of Aberdeen ; a Venus 
 of the Capitol ; and other high-class marbles from the collections of Sir W. Hamilton, 
 R. Payne Knight, and Edmund Burke ; including, from the latter, the copy of the 
 Cupid of Praxiteles, presented by the painter Barry to Burke. Here also are a sarco- 
 phagus from Sidon, sculptured with combats of Greeks, Amazons, and Centaurs ; and a 
 magnificent marble tazza 4 feet 3^ inches high, and 3 feet 7 inches diameter. 
 
 The Townley Collection of bas-reliefs, vases, statues, and groups, heads and busts, 
 includes 83 terra- cottas : the famed Discobolus, or Quoit-thrower, in marble, from the 
 bronze of the sculptor Myron ; Venus, or Dione, the finest Greek statue seen by Canova 
 in England; Venus Victrix, of the highest style of art; busts of Pallas, Hercules, 
 Minerva, and Homer ; bust of " Clytie rising from a sunflower ;" and busts of Greek 
 poets and philosophers. The Bacchus is finest so beautiful, self-possessed, and severe ; 
 Bacchus, the mighty conqueror of India not a drunken boy but the power, not the 
 victim of wine. 
 
 These stores of Greek and Roman art were collected by Mr. Charles Townley, chiefly at Borne, be- 
 tween 1765 and 1772 ; and were arranged by him at No. 7, Park-street, Westminster, with accompani- 
 ments so classically correct, that the house resembled the interior of a Eoman villa. The dining-room 
 had walls of scagliola porphyry ; and here were placed the largest and most valuable statues, lighted by 
 lamps almost to animation. Mr. Townley died in 1805 ; and his collection of marbles and terra-cottas 
 was purchased by the British Museum for 20,OOOZ., and first exhibited in a gallery built for their recep- 
 tion in 1808. Mr. Townley's bronzes, coins, gems, drawings, &c., chiefly illustrating the sculptures, 
 were subsequently purchased by the Museum for 82001. A bust of Mr. Townley, by Nollekens, is placed 
 near the entrance to the Central Saloon. Subsequent acquisitions have been made by the bequest of the 
 collection of E. Payne Knight, Esq., in 1824, and by various individual purchases and donations. 
 
 Lycian Gallery. Reliefs, tombs, and sarcophagi discovered and brought to England 
 by Sir Charles Fellows, principally from the ruins of Xanthus, S. W. Asia Minor ; 
 dating from the earliest Greek period to that of the Byzantine empire, and earlier than 
 the Parthenon. Model of the Harpy Tomb, with its actual white marble reliefs, pre- 
 sumed to represesent the daughters of Pandarus carried off by Harpies : the tomb itself 
 was a square shaft, 80 tons weight. Model of an Ionic peristyle building, with 14 
 columns and statues ; the friezes representing the conquest of Lycia by the Persians, 
 and the siege of Xanthus. Tomb of Paiafa : roof resembling an inverted boat, and an 
 early Gothic arch ; the sides sculptured with combats of warriors on horseback and 
 foot ; a chariot, sphinxes, &c. Casts from the sculptured Rock-tomb at Myra, with 
 bilingual (Greek and Lycian) inscription. 
 
 Elgin Rooms. The Elgin marbles, brought from the Parthenon at Athens by the 
 Earl of Elgin : some are the work of Phidias himself. (See in this room two models of 
 the Parthenon, each 12 feet long, made by R. C. Lucas, described in Remarks on the 
 
 P P 2
 
 580 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Parthenon by R. C. Lucas, Sculptor ; Salisbury, 1844 : 1. The temple after the bom- 
 bardment in 1687 ; 2. The Parthenon restored.) The Metopes from the Frieze (15 
 originals and 1 cast), representing the battle of the Centaurs and Lapitbaj, in alto- 
 relievo: for the original the English Government agent bid 1000Z. at the sale of the collec- 
 tion of the Count de Choiseul Gouffier ; but he was outbid by the Director of the French 
 Museum, where the metope now is. The Panathenaic Frieze, 524 feet in length, is 
 probably the largest piece of sculpture ever attempted in Greece : its men, women, and 
 children, in all costumes and attitudes ; horsemen, charioteers ; oxen and other victims 
 for sacrifice ; images of the gods ; sacred flagons, baskets, &c., have an astonishing 
 air of reality. Of the 110 horses, no two are in the same attitude : " they appear," 
 says Flaxman, " to live and move, to roll their eyes, to gallop, to prance, and curvet ; 
 the veins of their faces and legs seem distended with circulation." Here are about 326 
 feet of the Frieze, 76 feet casts, and about 250 feet of the genuine marble which 
 Phidias put up. 
 
 " The British Museum," says Professor Welcker, " possesses in the works of Phidias a treasure with 
 which nothing can be compared in the whole range of ancient art." Flaxman said that these sculptures 
 were " as perfect representations of nature as it is possible to put into the compass of the marble in 
 which they are executed and nature, too, in its most beautiful form." Chantrey spoke enthusiastically 
 of " the exquisite judgment with which the artists of these sculptures had modified the style of working 
 the marble, according to the kind and degree of light which would fall on them when in their places." 
 Lawrence said that, " after looking at the finest sculptures in Italy, he found the Elgin marbles superior 
 to any of them." Canova said, in reply to an application made to him lespecting their repair or restora- 
 tion, that " it would be sacrilege in him or any man, to presume to touch them with a chisel." 
 
 Pedimental sculptures, placed upon raised stages : East, the birth of Minerva, Hype- 
 rion, and heads of two of his horses : Theseus, ideal beauty of the first order, the finest 
 figure in the collection, of which more drawings have been made than all the other 
 Athenian marbles put together : " the back of the Theseus is the finest thing in the 
 world." Head of a horse from the chariot of Night, valued at 2501., the finest possible 
 workmanship. West pediment : Contest between Athena and Poseidon for the naming 
 of Athens ; the recumbent statue of the river god Ilissus, pronounced by Canova and 
 Visconti equal to the Theseus : torso, supposed of Cecrops, grand in outline : fragment 
 of the head and statue of Minerva. Also, a capital and part of a shaft of a Doric 
 column of the Parthenon, piece of the ceiling, and Ionic shaft, from the Temple of 
 Erechtheus at Athens, imperfect statue of a youth, piece of a frieze from the tomb of 
 Agamemnon, exceedingly ancient : circular altars from Delos, bronze sepulchral urn, 
 very richly wrought : casts from the Temple of Theseus, the best preserved of all the 
 ancient Athenian monuments ; the Wingless Victory and the Choragic monument of 
 Lysicrates ; from the Choragic monument of Thrasyllus, a colossal statue of Bacchus, 
 inferior only to the Phidian sculptures ; Eros (Cupid), discovered by Lord Elgin within 
 the Acropolis (headless), has in the limbs the grace and elegance of the age of Praxi- 
 teles ; the Sigean inscription, most ancient Grecian, in the BoustropTiedon style : i.e. 
 the lines read as an ox passes from one furrow to another. 
 
 To Haydon must be conceded the genius of instantly appreciating the beauty of the Elgin Marbles ; 
 yet they were utterly neglected until Canova, on seeing them, declared, " Sans doute, la veritS est telle, 
 les accidents de la chair et les formes sont si vraies et si belles, que ces statues produiront un grand 
 changement dans les arts. Us renverseront le systerae mathematique des autres antiques." Haydon 
 soon roused the public interest in the sculptures, and they were purchased by Parliament for 35,0001. 
 " You have saved the marbles," Lawrence said to Haydon, " but it will ruin you." Haydon's Autobio- 
 graphy, 1853. 
 
 Tuesdays and Thursdays in every week, and the whole month of September in every year (when day- 
 light is usually the steadiest and strongest), are exclusively devoted to artists and students in the Elgin 
 and Townley Galleries. 
 
 Hellenic Room. The Marbles have been brought from Greece and its colonies, 
 exclusive of Athens and Attica. Bas-reliefs of the battle of the Centaurs and Lapitha?, 
 and the combat of the Greeks and Amazons, from among the ruins of the Temple of 
 Apollo Epicurius, near Phigaleia ; built by Ictinus, contemporary with Phidias, and 
 architect of the Parthenon (Patisanias). Their historical value, representing the art 
 of the Praxitelian period, is scarcely less than that of the Parthenon marbles. In two 
 model pediments from the eastern and western ends of the Temple of Jupiter Par- 
 hnllenius, in the Island of .3Dgina, are, west, 10 original statues, representing Greeks 
 and Trojans contesting for the body of Patroclus ; east, 5 figures, expedition of Hercu- 
 les and Telamon against Troy, these statues being the only illustration extant of the
 
 MUSEUM, THE BRITISH. 581 
 
 armour of the heroic ages. In this saloon, also, are the Canning Marbles, or Bodroum 
 Sculptures, from Bodrourn, in Asia Minor, the site of Halicarnassus ; 11 bas-reliefs 
 (combat of Amazons and Greek warriors), formerly part of the celebrated Mausoleum 
 erected in honour of Mausolus, King of Caria, by his wife Artemisia, B.C. 353 : it was 
 one of the Seven Wonders of the World. These, and other sculptures from Bodroum, 
 were presented by the Sultan to Sir Stratford Canning (whence their name), and by 
 him to the British Museum. 
 
 Assyrian Galleries. Assyrian Sculptures, collected by Layard : fragments of the 
 disinterred Assyrian palaces of Nimroud (Nineveh) and Kouyunjik ; cuneiform (arrow- 
 headed) and other writing ; gypsum or alabaster bas-reliefs that lined the interior walls ; 
 detached sculptures ; ivories and other ornaments ; winged lions, weighing 15 tons each ; 
 winged bulls, each 14 feet high ; sculptured slabs of battle-pieces and sieges, combats, 
 treaties, and triumphs, lion and bull hunts, armies crossing rivers ; winged and eagle- 
 headed human figures ; religious ceremonies, sculptured obelisks, incription on a bull, 
 connecting the Assyrian dynasty of Sennacherib with Hezekiah of the Bible ; fragments 
 of a temple built by Sardanapalus, and a basalt Assyrian statue, closely resembling the 
 Egyptian style ; costumes, field-sports, and domestic life of 2000 years since. Here 
 also are a few stones with cuneiform inscriptions, excavated by Mr. Rich from the pre- 
 sumed site of Nineveh, near Mosul, but previous to Mr. Layard's researches, " a case 
 scarcely three feet square enclosed all that remained not only of the great city of 
 Nineveh, but of Babylon itself \" (See Layard's Nineveh and its Remains, Monu- 
 ments, iSfc.) To these has been added a further collection from the same region, exca- 
 vated in 1853-55, by Mr. Hormuzd Rassam and Mr. W. K. Loftus, under the direc- 
 tion of Sir H. C. Ra'wlinson, K.C.B. 
 
 Egyptian Galleries. The monuments in this collection constitute on the whole the 
 most widely extended series in the range of Antiquity, ascending to at least 2000 years 
 before the Christian a?ra, and closing with the Mohammadan invasion of Egypt, A.D. 
 640. The Sculptures (from Thebes, Karnac, Luxor, and Memphis, and 800 in number) 
 are placed in chronological order, from north to south : in the vestibule, early period ; 
 northern gallery, 18th dynasty; central saloon, monuments of Rameses II.,- and in 
 the southern gallery, those posterior to that monarch, descending to the latest times 
 of the Roman empire. The Egyptian, Assyrian, and Greek Antiquities are thus ex- 
 hibited in three parallel lines ; a fourth, or transverse line, along the southern extremity 
 of the others, being appropriated to Roman remains. Among the sculptures from 
 Egypt are, the celebrated head of Memnon, from Thebes, of first-class Egyptian art. 
 The head and arm of a king, a statue originally 26 feet high. Amenoph III. seated 
 on his throne the great Memnon in miniature. Two colossal red granite lions, couchant, 
 from Upper Nubia ; fine specimens of Early Egyptian art in animal forms. Breccia 
 sarcophagus, supposed tomb of Alexander the Great, carved with 21,700 characters. 
 The Rosetta Stone, black basalt, the most valuable existing relic of Egyptian history, 
 inscribed in hieroglyphics, the ancient spoken language of Egypt, and in Greek, with 
 the services of Ptolemy V. Epiphanes : the deciphering of which has afforded a key to 
 Champollion, Wilkinson, &c. The Tablet of Abydos, giving a chronological succession 
 of the monarchy. Sepulchral tablets and fragments of tombs ; Egyptian frescoes, painted 
 perhaps 3000 years ago, yet fresh in colour. Arragonite vases from the fourth dynasty. 
 Plaster casts taken in Egypt, and coloured after the originals. Here is a statue 
 of the son of Rameses the Second, about four feet high. He bears a standard on each 
 side ; it is of most beautiful workmanship, placed near the head of Memnon. It is in a 
 very good state of preservation, and is a beautiful specimen of Egyptian Art. It is 
 curious as a lithological specimen, the breccia being formed of the consolidated sand of 
 the desert, inclosing jasper, chert, and other siliceous pebbles. 
 
 Egyptian Booms (two), upstairs, contain divinities, and royal personages, and sacred 
 animals; sepulchral remains; and miscellaneous objects, specially illustrative of the 
 domestic manners of the Egyptians ; mostly from the collections of Salt, Sams, and 
 Wilkinson. Here are mummies and mummy-cases, wooden figures from tombs, bronze 
 offerings, and porcelain figures ; painted, gilt, stone, bronze, silver, and porcelain deities ; 
 figures of the jackal, hippopotamus, baboon, lion, cat, ram, &c. ; a coffin and body from
 
 582 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the third Pyramid; model of an Egyptian house, granary, and yard; furniture, as 
 tables, stools, chairs, and head-rests, couches and pillows, keys, locks, hinges, bolts, and 
 handles; from the toilet, the black wig and box, caps, aprons, tunics, sandals, shoes, 
 combs, pins, studs, and cases for eye-lid paint ; vases and lamps, bowls and cups, agri- 
 cultural implements, warlike weapons, writing and painting implements, working tools, 
 and weaving looms, toys, and musical instruments. A stand, with a cooked duck and 
 bread-cakes, from a tomb ; sepulchral tablets, scarabrei, and amulets ; rings, necklaces, 
 and bracelets, and mummy ornaments. Above the Wall-cases are casts of battle-scenes, 
 triumphs, and court ceremonies, coloured after the originals, from temples in Nubia. 
 
 The Temple Collection, of antiquities, bequeathed to the British Museum in 1856 
 by the Hon. Sir William Temple, K.C.B. The majority of the specimens belong to 
 that large region of Lower Italy which, prior to the Roman dominion, was extensively 
 colonized and highly cultivated by the Greeks, and thence received the name of Magna 
 Grsecia. They comprehend, therefore, specimens of the arts of three different races- 
 the Etruscans, Greeks, and Romans. 
 
 Vase Rooms (two) contain Etruscan and Gra3co-Italian vases, painted from the 
 myths or popular poetry of the day : classified into Early Italian, Black Etruscan, and 
 Red Etruscan ware; varnished ware, mostly early ; Italian vases, of Archaic Greek 
 style ; vases of Transition style, finest Greek, and the Basilicata and latest period. 
 (Vaux's Handbook.) Here are the ancient fictile vases purchased of Sir William 
 Hamilton in 1772, and then the largest collection known. 
 
 The Hamilton Vase, on being examined in 1839 by M. Gerhard, was found to bear the name of each 
 personage depicted on it ; from which it appears that the myth, or story, is totally distinct from that 
 assigned to it by M. D'Hancarville, in his schedules of the Vases of the Hamilton collection; thus over- 
 turning his theory, and reading a strange lesson to virtuosi and antiquaries. 
 
 Here also are Greek and Roman terra-cottas, of various epochs and styles. Above the 
 Wall-cases are painted fac-similes, by Campanari, of entertainments from Etruscan tombs. 
 
 The JKarberini or Portland Vase, the property of the Duke of Portland, has been 
 deposited in the Museum since 1810. 
 
 The Portland Vase was found about 1560, in a sarcophagus in a sepulchre under the Monte del Grano, 
 2 - miles from Rome. It was deposited in the palace of the Barberini family until 1770, when it was 
 purchased by Byres, the antiquary ; and sold by him to Sir William Hamilton, of whom it was bought, 
 for 1800 guineas, by the Duchess of Portland, at the sale of whose property it was bought in by the 
 family for 1029Z. The vase is 9f inches high and 7i inches in diameter, and has two handles. It is of 
 glass: yet Breval considered it calcedony; Bartoli, sardonyx; Count Tetzi, amethyst; and De la 
 Chausse, agate. It is ornamented with white opaque figures upon a dark-blue semi-transparent ground ; 
 the whole having been originally covered with white enamel, out of which the figures have been cut, 
 like a cameo. The glass foot is distinct, and is thought to have been cemented on after bones or ashes 
 had been placed in the vase. The seven figures, each 5 inches high, are said by some to illustrate tho 
 fable of Thaddeus and Theseus ; by Bertoli, Proserpine and Pluto ; by Winckelmann, the nuptials of 
 Thetis and Peleus ; Darwin, an allegory of Life and Immortality ; others, Orpheus and Eurydice ; Fos- 
 broke, a marriage, death, and second marriage ; Tetzi, the birth of Alexander Severus, whose cinerary 
 urn the vase is thought to be; while Mr. Windus, F.S.A.,in a work published 1845, considers the scene 
 as a love-sick lady consulting Galen. The vase was engraved by Cipriani and Bartplozzi hi 1786 : copies 
 of it were executed by Wedgwood, and sold at 50 guineas each, the model for which cost 500 guineas : 
 there is a copy in the British and Medieval Boom. 
 
 The Portland Vase was exhibited in a small room of the old Museum buildings until 
 February 7, 1845, when it was wantonly dashed to pieces with a stone by one William 
 Lloyd ; but the pieces being gathered up, the Vase has been restored by Mr. Doubleday 
 so beautifully, that a blemish can scarcely be detected. The Vase is now kept in the 
 Medal Room. A drawing of the fractured pieces is preserved. 
 
 Bronze Room. Figures of divinities, furniture, mirrors, tripods, candelabra, lamps 
 and vases, armour, personal ornaments, &c. ; including copper-bronze lions, bronze 
 remains of a throne, fragments of glass vessels and of armour, discovered by Layard 
 in Assyria. A large collection of bronze objects from Greece Proper, from Rome and 
 of the Roman period : and from the sepulchres of ancient Etruria, and the excavations 
 at Pompeii and Herculaneum. These include fragments of statues; spear-heads, 
 daggers, helmets, and Roman eagles ; steelyards, amphorae, and tripods ; candelabra, 
 vases, votive figures, and statuettes ; mirrors and their cases ; the exquisite 798 bronzes 
 bequeathed by R. Payne Knight; and the celebrated bronzes of Siris, from the south of 
 Italy. Miscellaneous Greek and Roman objects, including astragali of crystal, cornelian, 
 and ivory; dice, anciently loaded ; tickets for the games; hair-pins and ivory busts ; 
 ancient glass vases and paterso ; fragments of cornelian, onyx, and jasper cups, and a
 
 MUSEUM, THE BRITISH. 583 
 
 crystal vessel holding gold ; animals in bronze ; styli for writing ; keys, plates, enamel- 
 work ; Etruscan and Roman fibulae and finger-rings. Above the Wall-cases are fac- 
 simile paintings of Games, from tombs at Vida. 
 
 British and Mediceval Room, containing antiquities found in Great Britain and 
 Ireland, and extending from the earliest period to the Norman Conquest ; also, Mediaeval 
 objects, English and foreign; including 
 
 Celts ; stone knives, arrow-heads, and hammers : models of Celtic cromlechs, or sepulchres; paint- 
 ings of Plas Newydd and Stonehenge; bronze celts, swords, daggers, spear-heads, helmet, and buckler; 
 half-baked pottery from British barrows; fragments of Roman buildings; Kimmeridge coal-money; a 
 Coway stake from the Thames ; Roman service of plate; Roman glass; Saxon brooches. Mediaval: 
 personal ornaments and weapons ; ivory chessmen and draughtsmen ; paintings from St. Stephen's 
 Chapel, Westminster; Dr. Dee's crystal ball and wax cakes ; and (from Strawberry Hill) the Show-stone 
 (carmel coal) into which Dee " used to call his spirits." Here also are tenure and state swords ; Limoges 
 enamels ; Venetian glass ; Alhambra tiles ; Bow porcelain ; Wedgwood copy of the Portland Vase, and 
 two superb Chelsea porcelain vases, valued at 300 guineas, presented by Wedgwood. 
 
 The Early Christian Collection contains a number of pieces of glass vases with orna- 
 ments in gold leaf, all discovered in the Catacombs of Home. The subjects on these 
 are chiefly from the life of our Lord, or antitypes from the Old Testament, such as 
 Jonah, Moses striking the rock. There are also figures of St. Peter and St. Paul, and 
 other saints connected with the Early Roman Church. Here is the famous Blacas 
 Collection of gems and coins, Greek and Roman bronzes, mural painting from Pompeii 
 and Herculaneum, sepulchral inscriptions and manuscripts, Greek vases, silver toilet 
 service of a Roman bride, &c., purchased in 1866, for 48,0001. 
 
 The Mediceval Collection contains Sculpture and Carving, chiefly in ivory ; Paintings, 
 Metal-work, Matrices of Seals, Enamels, English Pottery, Venetian and German glass, 
 Italian Majolica, German Stoneware, &c. 
 
 The Ethnographical Boom contains objects illustrating the religion, arts, and in- 
 dustry of various countries ; including the model of a moveable Indian temple ; a Chinese 
 bell, captured from a Buddhist temple near Ningpo in 1844 ; a model of Nelson's ship, 
 the Victory, and a piece of its actual timber with a 401b. shot in it from the battle of 
 Trafalgar ; a plaster cast of the Shield of Achilles, modelled by Flaxman from the 17th 
 book of Homer's Iliad ; a colossal gilt figure of the Burmese idol Gaudama ; Chinese 
 figures of deities, beggars, mandarins, and trinkets; Hindoo deities, measures, vessels, 
 and arms ; Chinese and Japanese matchlocks, bows and arrows, shoes, mirrors, screens, 
 and musical instruments ; richly-decorated cloth from Central Africa : a Foulah cloak 
 from Sierra Leone ; an Ashantee loom, umbrellas, tobacco-pipes, fly-flappers, and sandals j 
 terra-cotta Mexican figures (mostly from Bullock's Museum) ; Aztec vases, idols, and 
 armaments ; Peruvian mummies and silver images ; musical instruments, weapons, tools, 
 ornaments, and costumes, from Guiana, the Marquesas and Sandwich Islands, Tahiti 
 and the Friendly Isles, New Zealand and Australia, Borneo, New Guinea, the Pelew 
 Islands, Siam, &c. ; and a tortoise-shell bonnet from the Navigators' Islands. 
 
 The Medal Room contains a collection of Coins and Medals superior to that of 
 Vienna and Florence, if not Paris. The nucleus of the British Museum collection was 
 Sir Hans Sloane's coins, worth 7000Z. as bullion, to which were added Sir Robert Cot- 
 ton's coins; 6000 medals from the Hamilton collection; the Cracherode coins and 
 medals, valued at 6000/. ; coins from the Conquest to George III. (Roberts's), pur- 
 chased for 4000 guineas ; a series of Papal medals, and a collection of Greek coins ; 
 the Townley Greek and Roman coins ; a vast collection of foreign coins, presented by 
 Miss Banks ; Payne Knight's Greek coins ; Rich's early Arabian, Parthian, and Sas- 
 sanian coins ; medals and coins attached to the library of George III. ; Marsden's- 
 Oriental coins ; Burnes's Bactrian coins ; and contributions and purchases of finds of 
 Anglo-Saxon, Anglo-Gallic, and early English coins. The collection is arranged in, 
 1. Ancient coins Greek in Geographical order, and Roman chronologically. 2. Modern 
 coins Anglo-Saxon, English, Anglo-Gallic, Scotch, and Irish, and the coins of foreign 
 nations, arranged according to countries : the Anglo-Saxon and English series is 
 complete from Ethelbert I. The great collection, with medals, 7700 specimens, 
 formerly in the Bank of England. Of Queen Anne's farthings here are seven varieties, 
 one only of which circulated, the others being pattern- pieces. 3. Medals, including an 
 almost perfect series of British medals, besides the Papal and Napoleonic medals. Here 
 is kept a gold snuff-box set with diamonds, and a miniature portrait of Napoleon, who/
 
 5S4 CURIOSITIES OF L02H)ON. 
 
 presented it to the Hon. Mrs. Darner, by whom it was bequeathed to the Museum, 
 on condition that the portrait should never be copied. Also a gold snuff-box with a 
 cameo lid, presented by Pope Pius VI. to Napo>:on, and by him bequeathed to Lady 
 Holland, with a card in Xapoleon's handwriting. Here are the engraved gems, antique 
 paste and glass, and gold trinkets, including the breastplate of a British chieftain. 
 
 " The coins are a noble collection : here, as in the other departments of the Museum, the solid value 
 of the collection consists in the equal and complete manner in which it covers the whole area of the 
 subject-matter ; and in this respect it stands the highest among collections." Times, 1863. 
 
 LIBRARIES. The Royal Library and general collection of Printed Books occupy the 
 east and north sides of the ground-floor and the internal quadrangle. The King's Li- 
 brary is deposited in a magnificent hall 300 feet long and 65 feet wide in the centre, 
 where are four Corinthian columns of polished Peterhead granite 25 feet high, with 
 Derbyshire alabaster capitals : the door-cases are marble, and the doors oak inlaid with 
 bronze. This library, the finest and most complete ever formed by a single individual, 
 is exceedingly rich in early editions of the classics, books from Caxton's press, history 
 of the States of Europe in their respective languages, in Transactions of Academies, 
 and grand geographical collections, 80,000 volumes, exclusive of pamphlets : among 
 the Jesuits' books, purchased in 1768, was the Florence Homer of 1488. Here is one 
 of the most extensive and interesting collections of maps in Europe. The entire col- 
 lection cost 130,000?.; catalogue, 5 vols. folio. 
 
 An interesting Department is that devoted to Books inscribed with Autographs. The rarest of all 
 these is a copy of Florio's Montaigne's Essaye, printed in 1603, and bearing the autograph of William 
 Shakspeare. Here, too, is the autograph of Ben Jonson, in a presentation copy to John Florio of the 
 first edition of his Volpone, printed in 1607. In other books we find the autographs of Bacon, Michael 
 Angelo, Calvin, Martin Luther, Philip Melancthon, Milton, Sir Isaac Newton, Sir Walter Scott, Voltaire, 
 &c. In this department are also some curious Proclamations. There is one issued in 1714, offering 
 100,0002. for the apprehension of the Pretender, Prince James, should he attempt to land in England. 
 Another is a Proclamation of Prince Charles Edward, styling himself Prince of Wales, and offering 
 30,0001. fur the apprehension of George II., who is therein coolly styled the Elector of Hanover, dated 
 August 22nd, 1745. 
 
 The Grenville Library, 20,240 volumes, cost 54,000?., was bequeathed to the Mu- 
 seum by the Right Hon. Thomas Grenville, whose bust is placed here. Among its 
 rarities are a Mazarine Latin Bible on vellum, the earliest printed Bible, and the 
 earliest printed book known (supposed Gutenberg and Fust, Mentz, 1455) ; also the 
 first Psalter, the first book with a date, and earliest printed in colours. 
 
 The General Library ranks with the public libraries of Vienna and Berlin, and is 
 inferior only to those of Munich and Paris. Among the rarities is Coverdale's Bible, 
 1535, the first complete edition of the Scriptures in English ; The Game and Playe 
 of the Chesse, the first book printed in English, from Caxton's press, 1474 ; the first 
 edition of Chaucer's Tales of Canterburye, only two perfect copies known, &c. ; 
 pamphlets and periodicals of the Civil Wars of Charles I. ; the musical libraries of Sir 
 John Hawkins and Dr. Burney ; Garrick's old Plays;* Tracts of the Revolutionary 
 History of France. The Library is very rich in early folios and quartos of Shakspeare : 
 there are the folios of 1623, 1632, 1664, and 1695. The quartos comprise the unique 
 Venus and Adonis of 1602 ; the rare second edition of the same poem of 1594 ; the 
 Tlomeo and, Juliet of 1597 ; and many others of fabulous value. Books of Divinity 
 are bound in blue, History in red, Poetry in yellow, and Biography in olive-coloured, 
 leather. The catalogues of the several collections are in themselves a library. The 
 catalogue, 7 vols. 1813-5-19, has been expanded, by interleaving and manuscript entries, 
 into 67 folio volumes. About 2000?. is expended ammally in adding old and foreign 
 works to the library ; and, under the Copyright Act, 5 and 6 Vic. cap. 48, a copy of 
 every book, pamphlet, sheet of letterpress, sheet of music, chart, or plan, published 
 within her Majesty's dominions, must be delivered to the British Museum. 
 
 " The printed book Library is rich in early and rare editions. It boasts that it can challenge the best 
 library of any nation in the world to show a series of the books of any foreign nation that can compare 
 
 * The collection of Shakspeare's Plays are for the most part from the collection of David Garrick; and 
 it is not generally known that he obtained these precious pamphlets for such they are in form from 
 the trustees of the Dulwich Gallery, who, as recorded in the Gentleman's Magazine of that period, 
 exchanged Alleyne's collection of stage plays for what they thought, in true churchwarden's phrase, 
 something more useful viz., some encyclopaedias of the period, and a collection of voyages and travels, 
 then modern. This fact gives a threefold value to the British Museum collection, as, besides Shakspare's 
 plays, the collection exchanged comprised several acting copies of older dramatists belonging to Alleyne 
 himself, and used by him hi performance.
 
 MUSEUM, THE BRITISH. 585 
 
 with those on the shelves in London. Out of Russia, Hungary, Germany, and France, respectively, there 
 are no such Russian, Magyar, German, or French libraries as those of the British Museum." Timei 
 1863. 
 
 The Newspapers are the largest collection in England. It was commenced by Sir 
 Hans Sloane ; and to it, in 1813, was added Dr. Barney's collection, purchased for 
 1000Z. ; since which the Commissioners of Stamps have transferred to the Museum 
 copies of all the stamped newspapers. The oldest in the collection is a Venetian Ga- 
 zette of the year 1570. Dr. Birch's Historical Collections, No. 4106, contain The 
 English Mercuric of July 23, 1588, long believed "the earliest English Newspaper," 
 now proved to be a forgery. In Dr. Burney's library is Neices out of Holland, 
 May 16, 1619, the earliest newspaper printed in England ; and The Neivs of the 
 P'resent Week, May 23, 1622, the first weekly newspaper in England. 
 
 The Heading Room, in the internal quadrangle of the Museum, occupies an area of 
 48,000 superficial feet. It originated with Mr. Panizzi, who suggested building a flat, 
 lo\v, circular Reading-room in the quadrangle ; the architect of the Trustees, Mr. 
 Sydney Smirke, approved of Mr. Panizzi's suggestion, but proposed a dome and glazed 
 vaulting, to give more air to the readers and a more architectural character to the 
 interior. This grew, on maturer consideration, into the much larger dome as erected 
 from Mr. Smirke's drawings, and under his direction as architect. It occupied three 
 years in construction, and cost about 150,OOOZ. 
 
 The Reading-room is circular. The entire building does not occupy the whole quad- 
 rangle, there being a clear interval of from 27 to 30 feet all round, to give light and 
 air to the surrounding buildings, and as a guard against possible destruction by fire 
 from the outer parts of the Museum. The dome of this reading-room is 140 feet in 
 diameter, its height being 106 feet. In this dimension of diameter it is only in- 
 ferior to the Pantheon of Rome by 2 feet ; St. Peter's being only 139 ; Sta. Maria, 
 in Florence, 139 ; the tomb of Mahomet, Bejapore, 135 ; St. Paul's, 112 ; St. Sophia, 
 Constantinople, 107, and the Church at Darmstadt, 105. The new reading-room 
 contains 1,250,000 cubic feet of space ; its " suburbs," or surrounding libraries, 
 750,000. The building is constructed principally of iron, with brick arches be- 
 tween the main ribs, supported by 20 iron piers, having a sectional area of 10 super- 
 ficial feet to each, including the brick casing, or 200 feet in all. This saving of space 
 by the use of iron is remarkable, the piers of support on which our dome rests only 
 thus occupying 200 feet, whereas the piers of the Pantheon of Rome fill 7477 feet 
 of area, and those of the tomb of Mahomet 5593. Upwards of 2000 tons of iron 
 were employed in the construction. The roof is formed into two separate spherical 
 and concentric air-chambers, extending over the whole surface; one between the 
 external covering and brick vaulting, the object being the equalization of tempera- 
 ture during extremes of heat and cold out-of-doors ; the other chamber, between 
 the brick vaulting and the internal visible surface, being intended to carry off the 
 vitiated air from the reading-room. This ventilation is effected through apertures 
 in the soffites of the windows, and at the top of the dome j the bad air passing 
 through outlets around the lantern. 
 
 The Reading-Room is world famous, and does not need description or praise, though the ingenious 
 fire-proof library that surrounds it may be less known, and is, in fact, part of the vast improvement 
 created by Mr. Panizzi when his Reading-Room was raised. That Reading- Room, with its light and 
 cheerful dome, is the type of the modern and the comfortable, not to say social, as the venerable chamber 
 of the Bodleian is of the older, more severe, and more secluded form of public study. The new library 
 is the most ingenious application of glass and iron to the purposes of economizing 1 space and providing 
 effective accommodation for and sufficient light to an enormous number of books that was ever invented. 
 The space between the dome of the reading-room and the walls of the Museum quadrangle is occupied 
 by a series of parallel wrought-iron bookcases, with passages between them, and a few square courts left 
 in places. The floors of the passages are formed of iron gratings, and each passage and the adjacent 
 bookcases are lit from the roof. This vertical light penetrates to the base of the building, through the 
 successive galleries or passages, that in some places are in tiers one over the other up to three or four 
 stories. This most ingenious library is calculated to hold from 800,000 to 1,000,000 volumes, and by its 
 method of construction solves the problem of future extension for the library, even at its present rapid 
 growth of 20,000 volumes in the year. Calculated to hold the books that may be added for the next forty 
 years, this new library thus shows how another million of books may after that be accommodated on a 
 space of about three-quarters of an acre. Times, 1863. There are twenty-five miles of book-shelves. 
 
 The Reading-Koom is open everyday, except on Sundays, on Ash Wednesdays, Good Fridays, Christ- 
 mas-day, and on any Fast or Thanksgiving days ordered by authority; except also between the 1st and 
 7th of il ay, the 1st and 7th of September, and the 1st and 7th of January, inclusive. The hours are from 
 9 till 7 during May, June, July, and August (except on Saturdays, at 5), and from 9 till 4 during the rest
 
 586 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of the year. To obtain admission, persons are to send their applications in writing:, specifying their 
 Christian and surnames, rank or profession, and places of abode, to the principal Librarian ; or, in his 
 absence, to the Secretary ; or, in his absence, to the senior under-librarian ; who will either immediately 
 admit such persons, or lay their applications before the next meeting of the Trustees. Every person 
 applying is to produce a recommendation satisfactory to a Trustee or an officer of the establishment. 
 Applications defective in this respect will not be attended to. Permission will in general be granted for 
 six months, and at the expiration of this term fresh application is to be made for a renewal. The tickets 
 given to readers are not transferable, and no person can be admitted without a ticket. Persons under 
 18 years of age are not admissible. 
 
 The persons whose recommendations are accepted are Peers of the realm, Members of Parliament, 
 Judges, Queen's Counsel, Masters in Chancery or any of the great law-officers of the Crown, any one of 
 the 48 Trustees of the British Museum, the Lord Mayor and Aldermen of London, rectors of parishes in 
 the metropolis, principals or heads of colleges, eminent physicians and surgeons, and Eoyal Academicians, 
 or any gentleman in superior post to an ordinary clerk in any of the public offices. 
 
 Nichols's Handbook for Headers, published in 1866, details the regulations and arrangements affect- 
 ing the use of the room, and describes the plans and scopes of the various catalogues of the printed books 
 and manuscripts in the National Library. 
 
 MANTJSCBIPTS. The Manuscript Library is the largest, and both in respect to the 
 intrinsic value of the documents it contains, and to the order in which they are ar- 
 ranged and kept, is inferior to none in the world : the Cottonian Collection is espe- 
 cially rich in historical documents from the Saxons to James I. j registries of English 
 monasteries ; the charters of the Saxon Edgar and King Henry I. to Hyde Abbey, 
 near Winchester, written in golden letters ; and " the Durham Book," a copy of the 
 Gospels in Latin, written about 800, splendidly illuminated in the style of the Anglo- 
 Saxons by the monks of Lindisfarne, and believed once to have belonged to the Vene- 
 rable Bede. The collection is rich also in royal and other original letters. The 
 Harleian Collection abounds in geographical and heraldic MSS.; in visitations of 
 counties, and English topography ; legal and parliamentary proceedings ; abbey 
 registers ; MSS. of the classics, including one of the earliest known of the Odyssey of 
 Homer ; in missals, antipbonaries, and other service-books of the Romish Church ; and 
 in old English poetry. Also two very early copies of the Latin Gospels, written in 
 golden letters ; splendidly illuminated MSS. j an extensive mass of Correspondence ; 
 nearly 300 Bibles and biblical books, in the Chaldaic, Hebrew, Greek, Arabic, and 
 Latin, in Manuscript j nearly 200 volumes of the writings of the Fathers of the 
 Church ; and works on the arts and sciences. Here is the oldest specimen of a Miracle- 
 Play in English, of the earlier part of the reign of Edward III. The Sloanean Col- 
 lection consists chiefly of MSS. on natural history, voyages, travels, and the arts, and 
 also on medicine. It comprises the chief of Ksempfer's MSS., with the voluminous 
 medical collection of Sir Theodore Mayerne, and the annals of his practice at the Court 
 of England from 1611 to 1649 ; also scientific and medical Correspondence, and his- 
 torical MSS. ; the drawings of animals are beautifully rich and accurate : two volumes 
 on vellum, by Madame Merian, contain the insects of Surinam. The Royal MSS. 
 contain the collection by our kings, from Richard II. to George II. ; including the 
 Codex Alexandrinus, in 4 quarto volumes of fine vellum, written, probably, between 
 A.D. 300 and A.D. 500, and presumed to be the most ancient MS. of the Greek Bible 
 now extant in uncial character : it was a present from Cyril, patriarch of Constanti- 
 nople to King Charles I. Other MSS. came into the royal possession at the dis- 
 solution of the monasteries. Old scholastic divinity abounds in the collection ; and 
 many of the volumes are superbly illuminated in a succession of periods to the 16th 
 century. Here also are several of the domestic music-books of Henry VIII. ; and the 
 Easilicon Dor on of James I. in his own handwriting. The Lansdowne Collection, 
 purchased in 1807 for 4925Z., consists of the Burghley and Csesar papers ; the MSS. of 
 Bishop Kennet ; numerous valuable historical documents ; and about 200 Chinese 
 drawings. Here are Hardyng's Chronicle, presented by the chronicler to King Henry 
 VI. ; a copy of the very rare French version of the Bible, upon vellum, translated by 
 Raoul de Prede for Charles V. of France ; also five volumes of Saxon homilies, tran- 
 scribed by Mr. Elstob and his sister ; and a fac-simile of the Vatican Virgil, made by 
 Bartoli in 1642. The Hargreave MSS., added in 1813, contain, besides early Law 
 Reports, an abridgment of equity practice, in 45 volumes, by Sir Thomas Sewell, 
 Master of the Rolls. The Burney MSS., collected by the Rev. Charles Burney, and 
 purchased in 1818, consist chiefly of the Greek and Latin classics, including the 
 Townley Homer, a MS. of the Iliad similar to that of the Odyssey in the Harleian
 
 MUSEUM, THE BRITISH. 587 
 
 collection (cost 600 guineas) ; also two early MSS. of Greek rhetoricians ; a volume of 
 the mathematical tracts of Pappas; and a magnificent Greek MS. of Ptolemy's Geo- 
 graphy, enriched with maps of the 15th century. The Oriental MSS. include the 
 valuable collection made by Mr. Rich while Consul at Bagdad, and comprising several 
 Syriac copies of the Scriptures ; also Arabic and Peruvian MSS. of great value, be- 
 queathed by Mr. J. F. Hull in 1827. Here also are MSS. of French History and 
 Literature, bequeathed by the Earl of Bridgewater in 1829. The Hotvard-Arundel 
 MSS., acquired from the Royal Society in 1831, more than 500 volumes in every branch 
 of learning. In illuminated works, the Collection in the British Museum is not sur- 
 passed, in the art of almost every age from the 4th, or certainly the 8th century to the 
 16th. Even the collection of Paris, or the Vatican itself, is not superior to that in our 
 Museum, which is the most comprehensive in existence. The Oriental manuscripts are 
 of inestimable value. 
 
 The Ancient Bolls and Charters of the Museum, many thousands in number, partly 
 from the Cottonian, Harleian, and Sloanean collections, illustrative of English history, 
 monastic and other property, are separately catalogued. 
 
 Magna Charta, if not the original, a copy made when King John's seal was affixed 
 to it, was acquired by the British Museum with the Cottonian Library. It was nearly 
 destroyed in the fire at Westminster in 1731 ; the parchment is much shrivelled and 
 mutilated, and the seal is reduced to an almost shapeless mass of wax. The MS. was 
 carefully lined and mounted ; and in 1733 an excellent fac-simile of it was published 
 by John Pine, surrounded by inaccurate representations of the armorial eqsigns of the 
 25 barons appointed as securities for the due performance of Magna Charta. An im- 
 pression of this fac-simile, printed on vellum, with the arms carved and gilded, is placed 
 opposite the Cottonian original of the Great Charter, which is now secured under glass. 
 It is about 2 feet square, is written in Latin, and is quite illegible. It is traditionally 
 stated to have been bought for fourpence, by Sir Robert Cotton, of a tailor, who was 
 about to cut up the parchment into measures ! But this anecdote, if true, may refer 
 to another copy of the Charter preserved at the British Museum, in a portfolio of royal 
 and ecclesiastical instruments, marked Augustus II. art. 106 ; the original Charter 
 is believed to have been presented to Sir Robert Cotton by Sir Edward Bering, Lieut.- 
 Governor of Dover Castle ; and to be that referred to in a letter dated May 10, 1630, 
 extant in the Museum Library, in the volume of Correspondence, Julius C. III. fol. 191. 
 
 The Commissioners on the Public Becords regarded the original of Magna Charta preserved at 
 Lincoln to be of superior authority to either of those in the British Museum, on account of several 
 words and sentences being inserted in the body of that Charter, which in the latter are added at the 
 foot, with reference-marks to the four places where they were to be added. These notes, however, pos- 
 sibly may prove that one of the Museum Charters was really the first written, to which those important 
 additions were made immediately previous to the sealing on Runnemede, and therefore the actual 
 original whence the more perfect transcripts were taken. Richard Thomson, Author of An Historical 
 Essay on the Magna Charta of King John, fyc. 1829. 
 
 In the Museum, also, is the original Bull, in Latin, of Pope Innocent III. receiving 
 the kingdoms of England and Ireland under his protection, and granting them in fee 
 to King John and his successors, dated 1214, and reciting King John's charter of 
 fealty to the Church of Rome, dated 1213. Also, the original Bull, in Latin, of Pope 
 Leo X. conferring the title of Defender of the Faith upon Henry VIII. 
 
 The Donation Manuscripts include Madox's collection for his History of the Ex- 
 chequer ; Rymer's materials for his Faedera, used and unused ; the historical and bio- 
 graphical MSS. of Dr. Birch ; the Decisions of the Judges upon the Claims after the 
 Great Fire of London in 1666 ; also Sir William Musgrave's Obituary ; Cole's collec- 
 tion for a history of Cambridge and Cambridgeshire, and an Athence Cantabrigienses : 
 besides many Coptic and other ancient MSS. taken from the French in Egypt ; 
 Ducarel's abstract of the Archiepiscopal Registers at Lambeth Palace ; and a long 
 series of Calendars of the original rolls from the 1st of Henry VIII. to the 2nd of 
 James I. Also Linacre's translation of Galen's Methodus Medendi, on spotless 
 vellum ; the presentation copies of Henry VIII. and Cardinal Wolsey : the former 
 illuminated with the royal arms, the latter with the Cardinal's hat. 
 
 Here are the Bible written by Alcuin for Charlemagne, large folio, 449 leaves of 
 vellum, said to have occupied 20 years -in transcribing, and illuminated. Psalters of 
 Henry VI. and Henry VIII. ; and Prayer-books of Lady Jane Grey and Queen Eliza-
 
 588 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 beth. The Breviary of Isabella of Castile, 1496-97 ; a profusely adorned specimen of 
 Flemish and Spanish art. The Bedford Missal, a Book of Hours, written and sump- 
 tuously illuminated in France for the Regent, John Duke of Bedford, and his Duchess, 
 Anne of Burgundy, between 1423 and 1430. MS. of Valerius Maximus, splendidly 
 illuminated. Original Letters of all the great Reformers; the English Kings; and 
 Poets and Philosophers. The MS. of " paper-sparing " Pope's Homer, written on the 
 backs and covers of letters. Three original assignments : Milton's Paradise Lost to 
 Simmons ; Dryden's Virgil to Tonson ; and Goldsmith's History of Eminent Persons 
 to Dodsley. Selections from the Rupert and Fairfax correspondence, 1640-49, includ- 
 ing letters of Charles I., Charles II., Fairfax, and Hyde (Lord Clarendon). The original 
 marriage-contract of Charles I. when Prince of Wales. The pocket-book taken from the 
 Duke of Monmouth after the battle of Sedgmoor, certified in the handwriting of James II. 
 Papyri. In the Egyptian Room is a framed specimen of this style of writing; and 
 among the MSS. is a Greek papyrus, probably of B.C. 135, containing the translation 
 of a deed of sale ; and a book of sheets of papyrus sewn together, brought from Egypt, 
 and bearing a copy in Greek of part of the Psalms of David. Several Egyptian papyri, 
 written in the hieroglyphical, hieratical, enchorial, or demotic character, framed and 
 glazed, are arranged in the staircase leading to the Print-Room. 
 
 THE PRINT-ROOM has only been an independent department since 1837. In 1836 
 was purchased from the Messrs. Smith, the Dutch and Flemish portions of Mr. Sheep- 
 shanks' collection for 5000?. Valuable additions have since been made, and the Print- 
 Room now contains the most perfect collection known of the works of the Engravers of 
 the early Italian, German, Dutch, and Flemish Schools. Among the Curiosities are, 
 in the Early Italian School, an engraved silver plate (a Roman Catholic Pax), by 
 Maso Finiguerra, 3| inches high by 2| inches wide, sold in 1824 for 300 guineas. An 
 impression in sulphur, a similar subject, the first step in the discovery in this branch 
 of printing, cost 250 guineas. Another similar subject, printed on paper, probably the 
 earliest exemplar known, cost 300 guineas. Specimens of this description are much 
 more numerous in the British Museum than in all other collections combined. Early 
 German School : works of F. Van Bocholt (1466), Martin Schoengauer, Israel van 
 Meeken, Albert Durer (a beautiful series, including some unfinished plates), Lucas van 
 Leyden, &c. Dutch and, Flemish Schools : works of Rembrandt, worth probably from 
 15,000?. to 20,OOOZ. ; the large portrait of the Dutch writing-master Coppenal is 
 valued at 500 guineas. French School : an admirable series of etchings by the hand 
 of Claude. English School : works of Sir Robert Strange and Woollett; prints after 
 the pictures of Sir Joshua Reynolds, West, and Sir Thomas Lawrence ; 4000 prints 
 after Stothard. 
 
 The Print- Room also contains an excellent representative series illustrative of Mez- 
 zotint Engraving : specimens by the inventor, Count Siegen, and by its earliest prac- 
 tisers, Prince Rupert, the Canon Fnrstemberg, &c., are remarkably fine and numerous. 
 Also, an extensive series of British Portraits and British Topography. Some thousand 
 drawings and prints collected and bequeathed by Mr. Crowle, cost upwards of 7000?., 
 including some of Turner's earliest drawings. Original Drawings by Raphael, Albert 
 Durer, Holbein, Rubens, Rembrandt, Vandyke ; and some beautiful designs by Claude, 
 a portion of his Liber Veritatis. Here are the finest specimens in the world of Ostade 
 and Backhuysen ; cost 200 guineas each. In an adjoining room is a small selection of 
 the most capital drawings, framed and glazed. In the Print-Room, also, is a carving 
 in hone-stone (Birth of John the Baptist) by Albert Durer, dated 1510, a wonderful 
 cutting in high relief, which cost 500 guineas; also, a beautifully chased silver Cup, 
 attributed to Benvenuto Cellini. The whole contents of the Print-Room are worth 
 considerably more than 100,OOOZ. They can only be seen by very few persons at a 
 time, and by particular permission. 
 
 The first Keeper of the Prints was Mr. Alexander, so well known for his Views and Costumes of 
 China. He was succeeded by Mr. J. T. Smith, the topographer, and author of the amusing Life and 
 Times of Nollekens. Mr. Young Ottley, the eminent collector, and author of the Early History of En- 
 graving, was his successor ; and he was followed by Mr. Henry Jozi, to whose energy a large amount 
 of the present prosperity of this department is due. On his decease in 1845, the post was given to Mr. 
 Carpenter, F.S.A., Keeper, to whose attainments and kindness all visitors to the Print-Boom will bear 
 ample testimony. Mr. Carpenter died in 1865. The present keeper is Mr. G. Eeid.
 
 MUSEUMS. 589 
 
 Here are a few small portraits viz., Geoffrey Chaucer, 1400, a small whole-length 
 on panel ; a limning of Frederic III. of Saxony, by L. Cranach, Moliere, Corneille, 
 an unknown head by Dobson, all on panel ; with the portrait of a Pope or Cardinal. 
 
 The public are admitted to the collections of Zoology, Minerals, and Antiquities on Monday, Wed- 
 nesday, Friday (and Saturday from 12 to 5 during May, June, and July), and the whole of Christmas, 
 Easter, and Whitsun weeks; November, December, January, and February, 10 to 4; September, 
 October, March, April, 10 to 5 ; May, June, July, and August, 10 to 6 ; closed the first week in January, 
 May, and September ; and on Christmas Day, Good Friday, and Ash Wednesday ; and on any special 
 Fast or Thanksgiving Days. The Visitors' Book is in the Hall. 
 
 A list of Descriptive Catalogues, &c., published by the British Museum is appended to the Synopsis; 
 with a list of the prices of casts and photographs from ancient marbles, bronzes, &c. in the Museum. 
 
 A list of objects added to the several collections in each year is printed hi the Parliamentary Eeturn, 
 usually in April or May. 
 
 Beneath the portico of the Museum have been set up casts from portions of the 
 famous Lion, which was erected on the sepulchre of the Boeotians who fell in the Battle 
 of Cha?ronea, B.C. 338 : a mound was raised, and a gigantic lion set up on its 
 summit : the mound was excavated, and the fragments found are in almost the finest 
 style of Greek art. This lion is placed close by that Lion of Cnidus, which is thought 
 to be of earlier date. 
 
 Principal Librarian and Secretary, Mr. J. Winter Jones, who succeeded Mr. Panizz 
 in 1866. Superintendent of Natural History, Professor Richard Owen. 
 
 MUSEUMS. 
 
 A DELAIDE GALLERY OF PRACTICAL SCIENCE (THE), Adelaide-street, Strand, was 
 *- built by Jacob Perkins, the engineer, and opened by a Society in 1832, for the 
 exhibition of Models of Inventions, works of Art, and specimens of Novel Manufacture. 
 Here, in a canal, 70 feet long, and containing 6000 gallons of water, were shown 
 steamboat models, with clock-work machinery ; experimental steam-paddles ; lighthouse 
 models, &c. Next were exhibited the combustion of the hardest steel ; the compression 
 of water; a mouse in a diving-bell; steam sugar-mill and gas-cooking apparatus; a 
 model of the Liverpool and Manchester Railway; electro-magnets; a mechanical 
 trumpet ; a magic bust ; models, from the Temples of Egypt to the Thames Tunnel ; 
 looms at work; mummy-cloth 2000 years old; and Carey's Oxy-hydrogen Microscope, 
 shown on a disc 17 feet diameter ; automatic ship and sea, &c. 
 
 Here Perkins's Steam-Gun was exhibited, propelling balls with four times greater force than that of 
 gunpowder, the steam being raised to from 300 to 600 Ibs. to the square inch ; and the balls, on reaching 
 the cast-iron target, fired at a distance of 100 feet, were reduced to the substance of tin-foil. It was 
 possible to propel 420 balls in a minute, or 25,200 balls in an hour; and the gun was promised to mow 
 down a regiment in less than ten minutes ! The Duke of Wellington predicted its failure in warfare. 
 
 A living Electrical Eel (Gymnotus) was brought here from South America in 1838 ; its length was 
 40 inches, and it resembled in appearance dark puce and blown plush. Professor Faraday obtained 
 from it a most intense electric spark ; and by one shock not only was the needle of a galvanometer de- 
 flected, but chemical action and magnetic induction were obtained. The eel died March 14, 1842. In 
 1776, a living Gymnotus was exhibited in London, 5s. each visitor. 
 
 ANATOMICAL MUSEUMS, mostly from the Continent, are often exhibited in London; 
 and Anatomical Collections are attached to the Hospitals. 
 
 ANTIQU ABIES, SOCIETY'S, MUSEUM, Somerset House, contains Egyptian, Greek, and 
 Etruscan antiquities ; Roman antiquities, mostly found in Britain ; British and Anglo- 
 Roman remains ; hair of Edward IV., and fragment of his queen's (Elizabeth) coffin ; 
 dagger, &c., found near the site of Sir W. Walworth's residence ; stone-shot from the 
 Tower moat; brass-gilt spur from Towton battle-field; reputed sword of Cromwell; 
 Bohemian astronomical clock, 1525 ; presumed Caxton woodcut-block ; matrices of me- 
 diaeval seals ; decorative tiles found in London ; coins, medals, and provincial tokens ; 
 Worcester Clothiers' Company's pall, and human skin from the doors of Worcester 
 Cathedral ; West Indian antiquities and curiosities ; geological specimens (elephant's 
 fossil teeth from Pall Mall) ; Porter's map of London (Charles I.). A synopsis of the 
 contents of the Museum is presented to the Fellows of the Society. 
 
 Among the old pictures are a " Greek paynting on wood ;" folding Picture of Preaching at Paul's 
 Cross, and Procession of James I., 1616 ; the Fire of London, from near the Temple ; 26 ancient pictures 
 (Kerrick's). Portraits of Philip the Good of Burgundy, Henry V. of England, Henry VI., Edward VI., 
 Margaret of York, Richard III., Henry VII. (four portraits), Mary of Austria, Ferdinand the Catholic, 
 Louis XII., Francis I., Queen Mary, William Powlett, Marquis of Winchester (see Catalogue, by G.
 
 590 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Scharf). Drawings of ancient mural paintings in St. Stephen's Chapel, Westminster (see Catalogue, 
 by A. Way, F.S.A.) ; portraits of distinguished Antiquaries; the very curious prescriptions ordered for 
 Charles II. on his deathbed, signed by 16 doctors (tifedicorum Chorus), the names, according to court 
 etiquette, being written at full length; and not, as ordinarily indicated, by initials only. Among " the 
 Milton Papers" preserved here is the signature of John Bunyan to a memorial to Cromwell and the 
 Council of the Army, dated 1653. 
 
 ANTIQUITIES, LONDON. This extensive collection of Roman and Mediaeval relics, 
 was formed by Mr. Charles Roach Smith, at 5, Liverpool-street, City. It consists 
 chiefly of objects illustrative of the domestic and social life and customs of the inhabi- 
 tants of London in the time of the Romans and during the Middle Ages. In the first 
 of these divisions are a bronze shield and weapons from the Thames ; remarkably fine 
 bronze statuettes of Apollo and Mercury; a bronze hand of colossal size; a pair of 
 forceps elaborately decorated with busts of gods and goddesses, and with heads of 
 animals ; an extensive series of fictile vessels, among which are embossed red bowls and 
 vases of great beauty and rarity ; wall-paintings from houses, and tiles for conducting 
 the heated air to the apartments ; flat glass, such as the Romans, or their predecessors, 
 used for windows ; also other Roman glass. Some of the tiles used in the buildings are 
 stamped PR. BEIT. ION., and are remarkable as presenting, perhaps, the earliest example 
 extant of an abbreviation of the word Londinium, now London. The leather sandals are 
 rare and curious specimens of Roman costume. Steel styli for writing, personal orna- 
 ments, and many examples of coloured and ornamented glass, are also worthy of 
 reference ; while the coins, chiefly from the Thames, include rare types. Of the later 
 antiquities, the Saxon knives, swords, and spears present some uncommon examples. 
 There is also a rival to the celebrated Alfred Jewel in the Asmnolean Museum at 
 Oxford, in an ouche, or brooch, of gold filigree work, set with pearls and enclosing a 
 portrait of a regal personage, or possibly a saint, exquisitely worked in opaque, coloured, 
 vitreous pastes. This valuable relic, and some Norman bowls in bronze, preserved in 
 this collection, have been engraved in the Archaeologia. Bone skates curiously illustrate 
 Fitzstephen's account of an old City pastime, as practised on the ice on the site of 
 Moorfields ; and the cuir bouilli, or stamped leather, shows how artistically this useful 
 material was worked in the Middle Ages. The shoes of the time of Edward III. and 
 Richard II. are elegant in their ornamentation ; and one is covered with mottoes in 
 Latin and in Norman French, and with designs of groups of figures. The Pilgrims' 
 Signs, in lead, form an almost unique series, illustrative of an old religious observance ; 
 and there are some fine early leaden Tokens of London tradesmen. A few of the 
 objects have been engraved in the Collectanea Antiqua; and an illustrated Catalogue 
 of the whole has been printed, for subscribers. The Collection is now in the British 
 Museum. 
 
 AECH^OIOGICAI ASSOCIATION AND INSTITUTE. Neither of these Societies possesses 
 a Museum of noteworthy specimens. The Institute has presented its principal articles 
 to the British Museum, for the room of British Antiquities. Each Society, however, 
 usually assembles a Museum in the city or town wherein is held its annual meeting. 
 
 At the Rooms of the Archaeological Institute, 26, Suffolk-street, in 1853, was exhibited the Fejeveray 
 Museum, illustrative of the history of Art, and consisting of Egyptian remains, purely artistic ; Etruscan 
 remains, principally in bronze; engraved gems; Egyptian, Assyrian, Babylonian, ancient Persian, 
 Etruscan, Greek, and Roman remains. The collection comprises also a noble set of Majolica ware, twenty- 
 five pieces in number, two painted by Giorgio, two others by Santi, and several after designs by 
 P. Francia ; a very curious case of niello-work, one piece of which belonged to Luigi Sforza, Duke of 
 Milan; many curious terra-cottas ; some striking Byzantine objects; artistic antiquities illustrative of 
 art in Hindostan, China, Persia, &c. &c.j a mass of Celtic objects; and a rare assemblage of Hun- 
 garian, Transylvanian, and Sclavic coins. 
 
 The "British Archaeological Association, 32, Sackville-street, Piccadilly, was estab- 
 lished in 1843 ; and in the same year The Archaeological Institute of Great "Britain and 
 Ireland, 1, Burlington Gardens. Each Society publishes its journal quarterly. The 
 Surrey Archaeological Society, 8, Danes Inn, Strand, was established in 1853 ; and 
 The London and Middlesex Archaeological Society in 1856, 22, Hart-street, Blooms- 
 bury. The objects of these several societies are cognate j each paying special attention 
 to the locality specified in the title. 
 
 ARCHITECTS, BRITISH, ROYAL INSTITUTE MUSEUM, No. 9, Conduit-street, con- 
 tains a series of busts and portraits of architects ; an original statuette in terra-cotta
 
 MUSEUMS. 591 
 
 of Inigo Jones, by Rysbraeck ; medals, &c., of Schadow and Perrier ; examples of Con- 
 tinental marbles ; two flutes of the Parthenon ; " growing stone" from Hieropolis j 
 auriferous quartz from California ; building-stones, including 117 specimens whence was 
 chosen the stone for the New Palace at Westminster ; casts of ornaments from ancient 
 and mediaeval buildings ; models of public buildings, roofs, and scaffoldings ; apparatus 
 for painting the dome of St. Paul's Cathedral, &c. 
 
 ARCHITECTURAL MTJSETJM (THE), South Kensington, originated by Mr. G. G. Scott, 
 F.S.A., was opened in 1853, as an exhibition and study for workmen sketching and 
 modelling, in connexion with a School of Art for Architectural Workmen. The leading 
 objects of this Museum are plaster casts of foliage, figures, &c. ; casts or impressions of 
 ancient seals or gems; tracings of stained glass, wall decorations, ornamental pave- 
 ments, &c. ; rubbings of brasses and incised stones ; specimens or casts of ancient metal- 
 work and pottery ; photographs, or other faithful drawings ; architectural books, prints, 
 &c. Here are casts from effigies in our Cathedrals, Westminster Abbey, and a beauti- 
 ful selection from the Chapter House ; panels from the Baptistery gates at Florence ; 
 figures and details from the French Cathedrals, casts from Venice, &c. The Museum 
 is supported by architects, builders, and sculptors; and small subscriptions from 
 students, carvers, and other artist-workmen. 
 
 ARMOURIES : 1 . At the Hall of the Armourers and Braziers' Company, Coleman-street, 
 where is Northcote's well-known picture of the Entry into London of Richard II. and 
 Bolingbroke ; 2. Artillery Company's Museum (see p. 25). 
 
 ASIATIC SOCIETY (ROYAL), 5, New Burlington-street. This Museum contains 
 oriental coins and medals, marbles and inscriptions; armour and weapons, including 
 Malay and Ceylonese spears, and an entire suit of Persian armour; Ceylonese jingals, 
 and Hindoo statues. The public are admitted on Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday, 
 by Members' tickets. 
 
 AUTOGRAPHS. The collections in the metropolis are too numerous for us to detail. 
 The late Mr. Robert Cole, F.S.A., assembled nearly 200 volumes of MSS. and Original 
 Letters, including Queen Caroline's : Her Letters to Lady Anne Hamilton; the draft 
 of the Queen's Letter to George IV., claiming the right to be crowned with him : the 
 Narrative of her sojourn on the Continent, from her leaving England to her return as 
 Queen, the whole autograph, continued by Lady Anne Hamilton to the Queen's death 
 in 1821. Also, a mass of Letters and Poetry inscribed to the Queen; and many of 
 the original Addresses presented at Brandenburgh House, with drafts of the replies, 
 in Dr. Robert Fellowes's handwriting. Several hundred Letters from " the Princess 
 Olive of Cumberland." Nell Gwyn : Treasury order for payment of Annuity to Nell ; 
 her signature E. G. to receipts ; her power of attorney to Fraser, signed E. G., and 
 witnessed by Thomas Otway, the poet. Nell's apothecary's bill, and many accounts 
 for silks and satins, hay and corn, ale, spirits, &c., supplied to her. Lewis Paul : his 
 papers and Cotton-manufacture Patents, granted many years before Arkwright's, 
 proving that Paul was the original inventor of Cotton-spinning Machinery. Regalia 
 of Charles II. : Papers relating to those made for his coronation. Flora Macdonald : 
 her only known letter. Nelson : the introduction letter ; the gunner's expense-book 
 at the battle of St. Vincent, signed by Nelson. The original Jubilee Address of the 
 Royal Academy to George III., signed by all the Members. Also, Letters, &c. of 
 James Watt and John Rennie, James Barry, &c. This collection has been dispersed 
 by auction.* 
 
 BOTANICAL SOCIETY, 20, Bedford-street, Covent Garden, has an extensive herba- 
 rium, open to members and other botanists, to facilitate the exchange of British and 
 foreign specimens in forming herbaria. 
 
 BHOOKES'S MUSEUM, Blenheim-street, in the rear of 13, Great Marlborough-street 
 (subsequently Colburn, the publisher's), was a fine anatomical collection of more than 
 6000 preparations, models, and casts, made by Joshua Brookes, F.R.S., during thirty 
 
 * Among the Dealers in Autographs is Waller, Fleet-street.
 
 592 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 years. The greater part was sold in 1828. Brookes was for more than forty years 
 a distinguished teacher of anatomy, and had 7000 pupils ; yet he died in comparative 
 poverty, and in despondency at the dispersion of his Museum. 
 
 BULLOCK'S MUSEUM. (See EGYPTIAN HALL, p. 320.) 
 
 CIVIL ENGINEEES, INSTITUTION OF (THE), 25, Great George- street, Westminster, 
 formerly possessed a Museum of models and specimens, which, on the extension of the 
 library and theatre, were distributed among other scientific societies. At the 
 annual Conversazione of the President of the Institution is assembled a large collection 
 of working models of new machinery, works of art, and specimens of manufacture. 
 In the theatre are portraits of Thomas Telford, and of succeeding Presidents of the 
 Institution. (See LIBEAEIES, p. 517.) 
 
 The Institution of Civil Engineers first met at the Sing's Head Tavern, Poultry, Jan. 2, 1818 ; and 
 was incorporated 1828. Telford bequeathed to the Society a large portion of his library, professional 
 papers, and drawings ; and a considerable sum of money, the interest to be expended in annual pre- 
 miums. Mr. Charles Manby, P.R.S., Hon. Secretary. 
 
 COLLEGE OP PHYSICIANS' (ROYAL) MUSEUM, Pall Mall East, contains the very 
 curious preparations which Harvey either made at Padua, or procured from that cele- 
 brated school of medicine. They consist of six tables or boards, upon which are 
 spread the different nerves and blood-vessels, carefully dissected out of the body : in 
 one of them are the semilunar valves of the aorta, which, placed at the origin of the 
 arteries, must, together with the valves of the veins, have furnished Harvey with the 
 most conclusive arguments in support of his novel doctrines of the Circulation of the 
 Blood. Of the Lectures which he read to the College in 1616, the original MSS. are 
 preserved in the British Museum. The above preparations were presented to the 
 College, in 1823, by the late Earl of Winchilsea, the direct descendant of Lord 
 Chancellor Nottingham, who married Harvey's niece, and possessed his property. 
 Here also is Dr. Matthew Baillie's entire collection of anatomical preparations, mostly 
 put up by his own hands, and from which his great work on anatomy is illustrated. 
 Like Harvey, Baillie gave this collection in his lifetime (1819). The preparations were 
 restored in 1851, by Mr. G. E. Blenkins, whom the College presented with a silver ink- 
 stand and a purse of fifty guineas. "Here also is a gold-headed cane, which had been 
 successively carried by Drs. Radclifie, Mead, Askew, Pitcairn, and Baillie, whose arms 
 are engraved on the head : presented by Mrs. Baillie. Among the MSS. is Bustorum 
 aliquot Beliquice, Baldwin Harvey's account of his contemporaries, and the amount of 
 their fees ; and in the library are Harvey's MS. notes and criticisms upon Aristophanes. 
 Admission by a Physician's order. 
 
 COLLEGE OP SUBGEONS' (ROYAL) MUSEUM, Lincoln's Inn Fields, was commenced 
 with the collection of John Hunter, of specimens in natural history, comparative 
 anatomy, physiology, and pathology, purchased by the Corporation of Surgeons, and 
 first opened in 1813 ; greatly enlarged in 1836, and again in 1853. The total number 
 of specimens is 23,000, of which 10,000 belonged to Hunter's original Museum, the 
 remainder having since been added. There are elaborate catalogues of the whole : ar- 
 ranged in " the Physiological Department, or Normal Structures;" and " the Patho- 
 logical Department, or Abnormal Structures." Besides the anatomical preparations 
 are the following Curiosities : fossil shell of a gigantic extinct armadillo ; fossil skele- 
 ton of the mylodon, a large extinct sloth from Buenos Ayres ; skeleton of a hippo- 
 potamus ; bones of the pelvis, tail, and left hind-leg of the mighty megatherium ; 
 skeleton (8 ft. high) of Charles O'Brien, the Irish giant, who died in 1783, aged 
 twenty-two ; skeleton (20 in. high) of Caroline Cracbami, the Sicilian dwarf, who died 
 in 1824, aged ten years ; plaster casts of hand of Patrick Cotter, another Irish giant, 
 8 ft. 7 in. high ; and hand of M. Louis, a French giant, 7 ft. 4 in. high ; glove of 
 O'Brien ; plaster casts of bones of the extinct bird, the dinornis giganteus of New 
 Zealand, which must have stood 10 ft. high ; skeleton of the gigantic extinct deer, ex- 
 humed from beneath a peat-bog near Limerick (span of antlers, 8 ft. ; length of antler, 
 7 ft. 3 in. ; height of skull, 7 ft. 6 in.) ; great penguin from the southernmost point 
 touched by Sir James Ross; skeleton of the giraffe; skeleton of the Indian elephant
 
 MUSEUMS. 593 
 
 Chunee, purchased for 900 guineas, in 1810, to appear in processions on Covent Garden 
 Theatre stage, and subsequently sold to Mr. Cross at Exeter Change, where it was 
 shot in 1826, during an annual paroxysm, aggravated by inflammation of one of the 
 tusks, but not killed until it had received more than 100 bullets (see Hone's Every- 
 day Book, vol. i.) : the skeleton was sold for 100 guineas : the head is 13 ft. from the 
 ground; the bones weighed 876 Ibs., the skin 17 cwt. Plaster cast of a young 
 negro, and a bust of John Hunter, by Flaxinan ; skeleton of a man who died from 
 water on the brain, skull 48 in. in circumference ; skulls of a double-headed child, 
 born in Bengal, who lived to be four years old, when it was killed by the bite of a 
 cobra di capello : the skulls are united by their crowns, the upper head being in- 
 verted ; it had four eyes, which moved in different directions at the same time, and 
 the superior eyelids never thoroughly closed, even when the child was asleep. Skeleton, 
 whose joints are anchylosed, or rendered immovable, by unnatural splints of bone 
 growing out in all directions. " The shaft case :" the chest of a man impaled by the 
 shaft of a chaise, the first tug-hook also penetrating the chest, and wounding the left 
 lung ; the patient recovered, and survived the injury eleven years : the preparation of 
 the chest is side by side with the shaft. Iron pivot of a try -sail, which, in the London 
 Docks, Feb. 26, 1831, was driven through the body of John Taylor, a seaman, and 
 passed obliquely through the heart and left lung, pinning him to the deck ; the try- 
 sail mast 39 ft. long, and 600 Ibs. weight : Taylor was carried to the London Hospital, 
 where he recovered in five months, so as to walk from the hospital to the College and 
 back again, and he ultimately returned to his duties as a seaman. Wax cast of the 
 baud uniting the bodies of the Siamese twins. Among the mummies is the first wife 
 of the noted Martin van Butchell ; and a female who died of consumption in 1775, the 
 vessels and viscera injected with camphor and turpentine. Also a sitting mummy, 
 supposed of a Peruvian nobleman, who immolated himself with his wife and child 
 some centuries ago. Since 1835, Professor Owen, F.R.S., has been Conservator of 
 the Museum, and the catalogues have been prepared by him. Here are : 
 
 Twelve wax models of the anatomy of the Cramp-fish ( Torpedo galvanii), presented by Professor Owen. 
 
 Fossil Bones of the Dinornis, or extinct gigantic wingless Bird of New Zealand (tibia 3 feet in length) . 
 
 Coloured casts of the Eggs of the gigantic extinct Bird of Madagascar (Epyornis), supposed the 
 original Roe of Arabian romance. One egg contains the matter of 12 ostrich-eggs, 140 hen's-eggs, and 
 10,000 humming-bird's eggs. 
 
 Skeleton of the Skulls of the great Chimpanzee (Troglodytes gorilla). This animal is upwards of 
 6 feet high, of prodigious muscular strength, and much dreaded by the Negroes of the West coast of 
 Tropical Africa. 
 
 A series of prepared Skulls of different classes of Animals, illustrative of Professor Owen's "Arche- 
 type of the Vertebrate Skeleton." 
 
 Skeleton of male Boschman (diminutive Hottentot) ; and plaster casts of the male and female, 
 from life. 
 
 Here, too, are some preparations similar to those of Harvey in the College of 
 Physicians ; they originally belonged to the Museum of the Royal Society, kept at 
 Gresham College, and were the gift of John Evelyn, who bought them at Padua, 
 where he saw them taken out of the body of a man, and very curiously spread 
 upon four large tables : they were the work of Fabritius Bartoletus, then Veslin- 
 gius's assistant. The Council of the College of Surgeons has presented to all the 
 recognised provincial hospitals possessing libraries sets of the valuable illustrated 
 catalogues of the Museum, of the collective value of 690Z. The metropolitan Hospitals, 
 and many learned and scientific societies both at home and abroad, had previously 
 experienced a similar act of collegiate liberality. 
 
 The Museum is open to Fellows and Members of the College, and to visitors introduced by them, 
 or by written orders (not transferable), on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, from twelve 
 to four o'clock; on Fridays it is open only for the purposes of study. The arrangements for the ad- 
 mission of learned and scientific foreigners, state-officers, church and law dignitaries, and members of 
 scientific bodies, are liberal and judicious. 
 
 COEPORATION MUSETTM, Guildhall, contains the relics of Roman London discovered 
 in excavating for the foundation of the Royal Exchange, arranged by Mr. Tite, 
 F.R.S. : 1. Pottery and glass: moulded articles, bricks and tiles; jars, urns, vases, 
 amphora ; terra-cotta lamps ; Samian ware ; potters' marks j glass. 2. Writing 
 materials: tablets, and styles in iron, brass, bone, and wood. 3. Miscellaneous : do- 
 mestic articles ; artificers' tools ; leather manufactures. 4. Coins, of copper, yellow- 
 brass, silver, and silver-plated brass, of Augustus, Tiberius, Claudius, Nero, Vespasian, 
 
 Q Q
 
 594 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Domitian, &c. ; Henry IV. of England, Elizabeth, &c. ; foreign, Flemish, German, 
 Prussian, Danish, Dutch. 5. Horns, shells, bones, and vegetable remains. 6. An- 
 tiquities and articles of later date. The Catalogue, printed for the Corporation in 
 1846, is scarce. Here, also, is the City charter (William I.) : the Shakspeare deed of 
 sale,* &c. (See LIBEAEIES, pp. 518, 519.) 
 
 Here is a Cabinet of the London Traders', Tavern, and Coffeehouse Tokens current 
 in the 17th century, presented to the Corporation Library by Henry Benjamin 
 Hanbury Beaufby, citizen and distiller. They consist of Tokens of iron, lead, tin, brass, 
 copper, and leather, and 9 Royal (Copper) Farthing Tokens ; in all 1174. The Leaden 
 Tokens were issued anterior to 1649, and the others from 1649 till 1672, by traders of 
 the City, as small change and advertisement ; each Token generally bearing the name, 
 residence, and sign of the house ; the index of them being a record of the olden topo- 
 graphy and history of London, and a Key to streets and localities long lost. Here is 
 the Token struck by Farr, of the Rainbow Coffee-house, Fleet-street, which escaped the 
 Great Fire of 1666 ; and the Tokens of the Turk's Head, in Change-alley ; and the 
 Soar's Head Tavern, Eastcheap. A Descriptive Catalogue of these Tokens, with 
 historical notes, ably edited by Jacob Henry Burn, was printed for the Corporation 
 in 1853 ; and enlarged and reprinted in 1855. 
 
 COTTINGHAM MUSEUM, 43, Waterloo-road, Lambeth, collected by the late S. N. 
 Cottingham, F.S.A., architect, contained about 31,000 specimens of Domestic and 
 Ecclesiastical Architecture, Sculpture, and Furniture ; a complete series of studies 
 from the Norman period to the close of the reign of Elizabeth. Here was an Eliza- 
 bethan ante-room and parlour, with a pair of enamelled fire-dogs, once Sir Thomas 
 More's ; a ceiling from Bishop Bonner's Palace, Lambeth ; busts of Elizabeth, Mary 
 Queen of Scots, Raleigh, and Burghley ; ebony table from Norwich ; Queen Anne 
 Boleyn's sofa, from the Tower ; a gallery and a ceiling from the council-chamber of 
 Crosby Place, temp. Richard II. (see p. 298); perforated Spanish brass lantern- 
 chandelier, temp. Henry VII. ; Spanish pattern lantern, date 1600 ; fireplace from the 
 Star-chamber 1 , Westminster ; figures of saints and bishops, and busts of English 
 monarchs ; Flemish oak screen (1490), carved with the history of our Lord, and 
 figures in niches, richly painted and gilt ; a reliquary, sixteenth century, painted and 
 carved ; cabinet with ceiling (Henry VII.), and Decorated window painted with 
 Henry VII. and his queen ; models and casts of tombs of the children of Edward III., 
 William of Windsor, and Blanche de la Tour ; a gallery with ceiling, Henry VI. ; oak 
 panelling from the palace of Layer Marney, Essex ; fac-simile of doorway, Rochester 
 Cathedral ; altar and altar-piece, with canopied figures ; ancient stall-seats (thirteenth 
 century) ; throne, and figures ; grand figures of the Virgin, Mary Magdalen, &c. ; 
 splendid fac-sirniles of lofty tombs, with recumbent effigies ; seven rooms filled with 
 models and casts j branches, with prickets for candles, temp. Henry V.; supposed 
 canopy of Chaucer's tomb ; marble keystone mask from Pompeii ; cast from the Strat- 
 ford bust of Shakspeare; fragments from Hever castle, St. Katherine's-at-the-Tower, 
 the palace and abbey at Westminster, &c. ; processional cross from Glastonbury Abbey, 
 &c. The collection, sold by auction in 2205 lots, Nov. 1851, produced but 20091. 13*. 6d^ 
 being depreciated at least fifty per cent, by this dispersion. The collection is well 
 described in an illustrated Catalogue, by Henry Shaw, F.S.A. 
 
 Cox's MUSEUM, Spring Gardens, formed by James Cox, jeweller, consisted 
 of several magnificent pieces of mechanism and jewelled ornaments : the tickets were 
 a quarter-guinea each : the collection was disposed of by lottery, by Act of Parlia- 
 
 * The most important fact of the town property of Shakspeare is that first pointed out by Mr. 
 Halliwell in his 8vo Life of the Poet viz. that the house purchased by him of Henry Walker, in March 
 1612-13, and the counterpart of the conveyance of which is preserved in the Guildhall Library, with. 
 
 most probably, destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666; but the house stands on its proper spot; and until 
 within these fe\y years, it had been tenanted by the Eobinson family, to whom Shakspeare leased it. 
 Close behind this house, in Great Carter-lane, stood the Old Sell Inn, mentioned in a letter addressed 
 to Shakspeare (see p. 452) ; and the poet was probably often in this house, the site of which was 
 noted, after the destruction of the original building, by a richly-sculptured bell, dated 1687, and sub- 
 sequently affixed to the front of a house in Great Carter-lane, on the north side.
 
 MUSEUMS. 595 
 
 ment, in 1774 j the schedule contains a descriptive inventory. Walpole mentions 
 " the immortal lines on Cox's Museum ;" and Sheridan, in the Rivals, " the bull in 
 Cox's Museum." At its dispersion, some articles were added to Weeks's Museum 
 (See p. 606.) 
 
 CUMINGIAN MUSEUM, 80, Gower-street, Bedford-square, collected by Mr. Hugh 
 Cuming, contains upwards of 124,000 species and varieties, including 68,000 specimens- 
 of Shells ; besides Genera in spirits, with the animals carefully preserved ; from Pata- 
 gonia, Chili, Peru, Columbia, Central America, the Gallapagos Islands, Sumatra, the 
 Malayan Peninsula, Java, the Philippines, and the South Pacific Islands. 
 
 In the luxuriant forests, on the arid plains, the mountain-sides, the sheltered bays and rocky shores 
 of these countries, and by exploring the floor of the ocean, species of Mollusca, hitherto imperfectly 
 known, were found in abundance, and numerous forms were discovered entirely new to science ; entitling 
 Mr. Cuming to rank with Sloane, Hunter, and Montague. The collection has been sold to the British 
 Museum. 
 
 DANIEL, GEOEGE, MUSEUM AND LIBBAEY OF, Canonbury-square, dispersed by 
 auction in July, 1864, the sale occupying ten days. 
 
 Among the gems was a collection of 70 black-letter ballads, 1559--1597, which brought 7501. Mun- 
 day's Banquet of Daintie Conceits, 1588, the only known copy, 2501, Joe Miller's Jests, 1st edition, ex- 
 tremely rare. On the Shakspeare day, a copy of Shakspeare' s Sonnets, one of only two perfect copies 
 known with the same imprint, which cost Narcissus Luttrell one shilling, was knocked down for 
 215 guineas ! Separate plays of Shakspeare, original editions, produced more than 300 guineas each : 
 the " first folio," bought for Miss Burdett Coutts at 682 guineas. Among the Tokens was that of tho 
 Soar's Head, said to be unique; and the Mermaid Tavern, rare. There were many original drawings, 
 engraved portraits, and curious examples of art and virtu. Among the portraits were Betterton, 
 Uullock, and Barton Booth ; the very rare mezzotint of George Harris as Cardinal Wolsey ; Miss Norsa, 
 painted and engraved by Bernard Lens, exceedingly rare ; and Shuter, as he spoke Joe Haynes's epilogue, 
 mounted on an ass. Among the oil-paintings were an old portrait of Shakspeare, bought at the sale of 
 Mr. Symes's effects, at old Canonbury Tower, and a whole length of Napoleon I., taken from life by 
 Barlow while on board the Bellerophon. Among the memorials was an octagonal casket, with conical 
 lid, surmounted by the bust of Shakspeare, carved by Sharp from the famed mulberry-tree, with vine- 
 
 John Pritt Harley, at the sale of whose effects, in 1858, it was purchased by Mr. Daniel. A crucifix in 
 hard wood, exquisitely carved, it was said, by Cellini, and the plinth by Gibbons, brought thirty guineas ; 
 and the double cup, in silver, from the Strawberry Hill Collection, was sold for 601. 
 
 ENTOMOLOGICAL SOCIETY'S MUSEUM, 12, Bedford-row, Holborn: a collection of 
 insects, commenced with Mr. Kirby's specimens, from which the first of monographs 
 ever published was formed. (Kirby and Spence's Introduction.) Here is also a library 
 of reference on Entomology. 
 
 GEOLOGY, PRACTICAL, MUSEUM OP, Nos. 28 to 32, Jermyn-street, originated in a 
 suggestion by Sir H. De la Beche, C.B., in 1835, for the collection of geological and 
 mineralogical specimens during the progress of the Geological Survey of tho United 
 Kingdom. The collections were first exhibited in a house in Craig's-court, Charing 
 Cross ; but becoming too extensive for this accommodation, the present handsome 
 edifice was erected, with entrance in Jermyn-street, and frontage in Piccadilly : Penne- 
 thorne, architect ; style, Italian palaazo. 
 
 In the lower hall is a collection of British building and ornamental stones sand- 
 stones, oolites, limestones, granites, and porphyries, in six-inch cubes. The entrance is 
 lined with Derbyshire alabaster ; and the hall has pilasters of granite from Scotland, 
 serpentine from Ireland, and limestones from Devonshire, Derbyshire, &c. On one side is 
 an elaborate screen, with Cornish serpentine pilasters and cornice; and Irish serpentine 
 panels, framed with Derbyshire productions. Here is a large copy of an Etruscan 
 vase cut in Aberdeen granite ; and on the floors are a very fine tessellated pavement of 
 Cornish clay, and examples of encaustic tiles ; pedestals of British marbles support 
 vases and statuettes of artificial stone, cement, &c. 
 
 The principal floor has an apartment 95 feet by 55 feet, with an iron roof, glazed 
 with rough plate-glass. Around run two light galleries. Here are specimens of iron, 
 copper, tin, lead, manganese, antimony, cobalt, &c., of the United Kingdom and the 
 colonies ; also a good collection of similar ores from the most important metalliferous 
 countries of the world. The processes of raising these from the mines are illustrated 
 by an extensive series of models, with the modes of dressing the ores for the market, and 
 the final production of the metal ; mining tools, safety-lamps, &c. ; including models 
 of Taylor's Cornish pumping-engine, the water-pressure engine, the turbine and other
 
 596 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 wheels, and a beautiful set of valves. The models of mines can be dissected, and the 
 mode of working shown ; with the machines for lowering and raising the miners, 
 models of stamping and crushing engines, and iron-smelting by the hot and cold blast. 
 Here, also, are tools of the Cornish, German, Russian, and Mexican miners. 
 
 The history of the metals may also be read in a collection of bronzes and brasses, and 
 gold and silver ornaments ; examples of metal casting and steel manufacture are shown ; 
 as are also metal statuettes, electrotype deposits, and illustrations of electro-plating and 
 gilding, and photographic processes. Here is also a large and valuable collection of 
 ancient glass, in beads, bottles, jugs, &c., historically arranged: the old Venetian glass 
 is exceedingly curious. The processes of enamelling are illustrated; and here are 
 specimens of fine Limoges, modern works, and Chinese enamels. Next is a collection 
 of Roman pottery. The China clays, China stone, and other raw materials of earthen- 
 ware and porcelain, are shown ; and here is a complete series of the wares of the 
 Staffordshire potteries; also, specimens of those of Derby, Worcester, Swansea, Chelsea, 
 Bow, and other districts, in comparison with the earthenware of the ancients, the 
 ceramic manufactures of Italy, Germany, France, and the Orientals. 
 
 In the galleries round the large room is a very complete collection of British fossils, 
 arranged in the order of their occurrence and labelled, so that a collector may compare 
 and identify any specimen he may find. 
 
 Attached to the Museum is the Mining Records Office, in which are collected plans 
 and sections of existing and abandoned mines. Here also are a Library, and a Lecture- 
 theatre with 580 sittings. Lastly are well-fitted Laboratories, communicating by a 
 hydraulic lift with a fire-proof room in the basement-story, containing an assay -furnace. 
 The collections arc open to the public gratuitously on the first three days of the week ; 
 and on the other three days to the students of the Royal School of Mines, &c. 
 
 GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY'S MUSEUM, Somerset House, is rich in the original types of 
 fossils described in the Geological Transactions. The collection contains a series of 
 British fossils and rocks, arranged stratigraphically ; likewise, an assemblage of selected 
 minerals, and a foreign collection geographically arranged. The Society possesses also 
 a fine library of works upon geological science. 
 
 GEOLOGICAL: MB. J. S. BOWEBBANK'S Collection, 3, Highbury-grove, Islington, 
 consisting more especially of British fossils stratigraphically arranged ; and particularly 
 rich in the crag, London clay, and chalk formations ; the whole occupying 400 drawers. 
 Also the most extensive collection of British and foreign Sponges in Europe, consisting 
 of many hundred species from Australia, Africa, the West Indies, &c. 
 
 GUIANA EXHIBITION, 209, Regent-street (Cosmorama), was a Museum of objects 
 illustrative of the ethnography and natural history of British Guiana, collected by Mr. 
 (afterwards Sir) H. Robert Schomburgk, and exhibited in 1840. The saloon was fitted 
 up as a Guianese hut ; and here were three living natives, part of Schomburgk's boat's 
 crew, in their picturesque costumes. Besides collections of mammalia, birds, reptiles, 
 fishes, mollusca, and insects, specimens in osteology, geology, &c., here was a painting 
 of the Victoria Regia lily ; Guianese furniture, clothing, and other manufactures ; 
 poisoned arrows and blowpipe ; a native hammock and bark shirt ; the boa, puma, and 
 ant-eater ; splendid rock manakins and humming-birds, &c. The three natives, wearing 
 only waistcloths, and jaguar-skin cloaks, and teeth necklaces, and feather-caps, and 
 their skins painted and tattooed, exhibited their blowpipe shooting and dances, which 
 were very attractive. 
 
 At the Cosmorama was revived, in 1839, the "Invisible Girl" of some thirty years previously, the 
 invention of M. Charles, and detailed by Sir David Brewster in his Natural Magic. The poet Moore 
 inscribed, with exquisite fancy, " Lines to the Invisible Girl." The invention " consisted of an appa- 
 ratus with trumpets, communicating by a pipe beneath the floor of the room to an apartment in which 
 sat a lady, who, through a small hole in the partition, saw what was going on in the exhibition-room, 
 and answered through the tube accordingly; the sound losing so much of its force in its passage, as to 
 appear like the voice of a girl." 
 
 HOSPITALS, the principal, possess Anatomical Museums. 
 
 HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY'S HOUSE, Fenchurch- street, possessed many years since a 
 Museum of stuffed Birds, and other objects of natural history from Rupert's Land ; the
 
 MUSEUMS. 597 
 
 greater portion of which has been presented to the British Museum and the Zoological 
 Society. 
 
 HUNTER'S (WILLIAM) MUSEUM was collected at his large house on the east side of 
 Great Windmill-street, Haymarket. Hunter employed many years in the anatomical 
 preparations and in the dissections; besides making additions by purchase from the 
 museums of Sandys, Falconer, Blackall, and others. Here was a sumptuous library 
 of Greek and Latin classics ; and a very rare cabinet of ancient medals, besides coins, 
 purchased at 20,0001. expense. Minerals, shells, and other specimens of natural history 
 were gradually added to this Museum, which hence became one of the Curiosities of 
 Europe. The cost of the whole exceeded 70,000. ; it was bequeathed by Hunter to 
 the University of Glasgow, with 8000Z. to support and augment the whole. 
 
 INDIA MUSEUM V Fife House, Whitehall-yard, formerly the residence of the Earl 
 of Liverpool. This collection was re-arranged in 1858, and Las been removed from 
 the East India House, as above. In the old Museum, so long one of the sights of 
 London, trophies of war were the most conspicuous objects, and the specimens of 
 natural history and rare literary treasures were secondary attractions compared with 
 the silver elephant-howdah and the tiger-organ of Tippoo Sahib. The new collection 
 contains some monumental and artistic records of the progress of British empire in the 
 East, but its principal object is to illustrate the productive resources of India, and to 
 give information about the life and manners, the arts and industry, of its inhabitants. 
 
 Here are models and groups of figures representing the varieties of race, caste, dress, occupation, 
 worship, and everything belonging to the public or the domestic life of the people of India: specimens 
 of their agricultural implements, manufacturing tools, and rude machinery; of their conveyances by 
 land and water, of their household furniture and their musical instruments. There is a model of a 
 Sepoy encampment, the huts with their bamboo framework supporting the walls of Durmah matting, 
 topped by a heavy roof of straw thatch ; a model, also, of a kutcherrie, or law-court. In the industrial 
 portion are shown Calcutta and Madras leather; specimens of paper made from jute fibre and plantain 
 leaf; matwork; metal work, as bangles, rings, bracelets, brooches, tassel knots for dresses, hookah 
 mouthpieces ; Trichinopoly filigree work ; from the Bengal presidency a superb necklace of gold set 
 with pearls and emeralds ; a gold bracelet thickly set with pearls and diamonds ; a necklace of emeralds, 
 pearls, and rubies; a bracelet of three rows of large diamonds, about 90 in number; and a number of 
 curiously formed gold and silver spice boxes. Portrait of Kunjeet Singh, sitting at his Durbar : round 
 his neck is a string of 280 pearls, said to be the largest and most valuable in the world ; (now hi the 
 possession of her Majesty). His head-dress is a perfect mass of rubies and emeralds, while on his arms 
 is a cluster of armlets of jewels, one a noble emerald. Here are enormous silver chains of great weight 
 and such strength as to carry the heavy arms and accoutrements of the hill tribes of Thibet, with native 
 charm rings and rough-looking bracelets. Also, turquoises of the largest size and purest water, uncut 
 and unpolished, found amid the mountains of Thibet. Specimens of carved woodwork, the inlaid work 
 of wood, metal, and ivory, and the lackered work of Lahore, Bareilly, and Scinde ; metal works and 
 brass wares from Madras, Travancore, Darjheeling, Delhi, and Benares. The formidable knives of 
 the Ghoorkas, the long matchlocks of the men of Oude, the shields and spears of the Santals, the keen- 
 edged swords of the Rajpoots, and the camel guns of the old Mahrattas. Here, too, is actually a re- 
 volver musket at least 60 years old, which at once disposes of the claims of both Colt and Adams to 
 originality even of construction. This revolver, we believe, was taken by Sir David Baird at the storm- 
 ing of Seringapatam. Among the costumes are dresses embroidered with beetles, &c. Here are marble 
 statues of Wellington, Clive, and Hastings; pictures; models of Indian craft; antelopes, stags, leopards, 
 and other large stuffed animals. A fine collection of the Elliot marbles, from the ruins of Amrawutti. 
 The Museum is open Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 10 to 4, free. 
 
 KING'S COLLEGE MUSEUM, Strand, consists of the collection formed at the Kew 
 Observatory by King George III., and of a cabinet of natural history specimens from 
 Kew Palace ; presented to the College in 1843, and known as " George the Third's 
 Museum." Here are the celebrated " Boyle models," and " forty-one brass plates, 
 engraved with astronomical, astrological, and mathematical delineations;" a large 
 orrery, date 1733 ; an armillary sphere, 1731 ; apparatus made for Desaguliers' lectures ; 
 a rude model of Watt's steam-engine ; Attwood's large arch of polished brass voussoirs, 
 &c. There have been added Wheatstone's speaking-machine ; a model, fifteen feet 
 long, of the celebrated Schaffhausen timber bridge ; a bust of Queen Victoria, by 
 Weekes ; and a statuette of George III., by Turuerelli. The collection also includes 
 small philosophical apparatus, entomological specimens, fossils, minerals, &c. Here 
 also is a portion of Mr. Babbage's Calculating Machine, which has succeeded in printing 
 mathematical and astronomical tables. At the College is likewise an Anatomical 
 Museum, a Cabinet of Natural History ; and a Chemical Theatre, with a Daniell constant 
 battery of great power. 
 
 The College possesses a beautifully-illuminated MS. containing the Statutes of the Order of the 
 Garter; a drawing of the House of Lords, temp. Edward I.: and the Statutes in more elegant Latin.
 
 598 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 corrected in the handwriting of King Edward VI., superbly emblazoned with arms, &c. The Museum 
 can be seen by the Curator's order. 
 
 LEVEBIAN MUSEUM : (See LEICESTEB-SQUAKE, p. 512.) 
 
 LINNEAN SOCIETY, 32, Soho-square (the bouse of Sir Joseph Banks, and bequeathed 
 by him to the Society), formerly contained in its Museum the herbarium of Linnaeus, 
 purchased, with the library, by Sir J. E. Smith, for 1000Z. The herbarium was kept in 
 three small cases, and was a curious botanical antiquity, of great value in ascertaining 
 with certainty the synonyms of the writings of Linnaeus. The museum is very rich 
 in the botanical department, containing the herbaria of Linnaeus, Smith, Pulteney, 
 Woodward, Winch, &c. ; besides a valuable herbarium presented by the East 
 India Company in 1833. The entomological collections are extensive ; the zoology is 
 rich in Australian marsupials, birds, and reptiles ; and the shells are fine. Here also 
 was a collection of paintings, including a portrait of Linnaeus, fA)m the original by 
 Koslin at Stockholm, described as the most striking likeness ever executed. This copy 
 "was painted for Archbishop Von Troil, by whom it was presented to Sir Joseph Banks. 
 In this house Sir Joseph Banks gave public breakfasts on Thursdays, and conver- 
 sazioni on Sunday evenings, to the Fellows of the Koyal Society, during his long pre- 
 sidency. He left an annuity of 200Z., his library, and botanical collections, for life, to 
 his librarian, M r. Robert Brown, F.R.S., afterwards to come to the British Museum ; but 
 by arrangement the library and collections were at once transferred to the Museum. 
 
 MANUFACTURES ANB OBIT AMENTAI AET MUSEUM, Marlborough House, Pall Mall 
 was opened temporarily in 1852, with purchases from the Great Exhibition, with 
 5000?. voted by Parliament : including gorgeous scarfs and shawls from Cashmere and 
 Lahore ; the French shawl of Duche aine et C ie , the most perfect specimen of shawl- 
 \veaving ever produced ; glittering swords, yataghans, and pistols from Tunis and Con- 
 stantinople ; the famous " La Gloire " vase from the Sevres manufacture ; Marcel 
 Freres' hunting-knife of St. Hubert; Changarnier's sword, from the workshop ot 
 Froment Meurice ; Vecte's splendid shield ; a facsimile of the celebrated Cellini cup ; 
 and other art-illustrations of the highest order. To these were added purchases ; and 
 the articles were grouped into six classes : woven fabrics, metal works, pottery, 
 furniture, and miscellanies. The metal-work department consisted also of the rich and 
 splendid manufacture of the East, with a few rude specimens illustrative of the innate 
 taste of their workmen ; the silver and bronze materials of France, cups of English 
 and brooches of Irish manufacture, and Elkington's electrotypes. The division of 
 pottery was enriched by the Queen's Sevres collection, and by valuable works from 
 Baring, Minton, Copeland, Webb, and Farrar : the royal collection, though of forty- 
 two pieces only, being worth 12,000. The casts of ornamental art were re- 
 moved here from Somerset House; and the collection included ancient Greek and 
 Roman, mediaeval or Romanesque, Saracenic or Gothic, Renaissance, figures, busts, 
 masks, animals, &c. ; the Renaissance (A.D. 1400 to 1600) arranged chronologically. 
 
 There was a collection of 3489 specimens of enrichment, British and foreign examples, for the 
 guidance as to style of the carvers employed in the New Houses of Parliament ; and another collection 
 of 3283 casts, from models prepared for stone and wood carvings, deposited in the Government Works at 
 Thames Bank, and at the New Houses of Parliament. These examples cost 70002., and are intended to 
 lorm part of a National Museum of Medieval Art. First Beport Dep. Practical Art, 1853. 
 
 The Car for the Funeral of the Duke of Wellington, in 1852, modelled by 
 Pupils of the Department, was subsequently exhibited here. The collection was re- 
 moved to South Kensington, upon Marlborough House being prepared for the recep- 
 tion of the Prince and Princess of Wales j the Car being removed to St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 MEAD'S (Ds.) MUSEUM was in the garden of No. 49, Great Ormond-street, where 
 was also a library of 10,000 volumes. The collection included prints and drawings, 
 coins and medals ; marble statues of Greek philosophers and Roman emperors ; bronzes, 
 gems, intaglios, Etruscan vases, &c. ; marble busts of Shakspeare, Milton, and Pope, 
 by Scheemakers ; statues of Hygeia and Antinous ; a celebrated bronze head of 
 Homer; and an iron cabinet (once Queen Elizabeth's) full of coins, among which was a 
 medal with Oliver Cromwell's head in profile, legend, " the Lord of Hosts, the word at 
 Dunbar, Sept. 1650 ;" on the reverse, the parliament sitting. After Dr. Mead's death, 
 in 1754, the sale of his library, pictures, statues, &c. realized between 15,0002. and 16,000/.
 
 MUSEUMS. 599 
 
 Mead, when not engaged at home, generally spent his evenings at Batson's coffee- 
 house, Cornhill ; and in the forenoons, apothecaries came to him at Tom's, Covent 
 Garden, with written or verbal reports of cases, for which he prescribed without seeing 
 the patient, and took half-guinea fees. Dr. Mead's gay conversazioni, in Ormond- 
 street, were the first meetings of the kind. 
 
 MISSIONAKT MUSEUM, THE, 8, Bloomfield-street, Finsbury, contributed chiefly by 
 the missionaries of the London Missionary Society, and travellers generally, is remark- 
 able for its great number of idols and objects of superstitious regard, costumes, do- 
 mestic utensils, implements of war, music, &c. from islands in the Pacific Ocean, China, 
 and ultra-Ganges ; India, including the three Presidencies ; Africa and Madagascar j 
 North and South America ; " especially the idols given up by their former worshippers, 
 from a full conviction of the folly and sin of idolatry." Here also is an assemblage of 
 natural history specimens, principally Polynesian : its Tahitian collection rivals Capt. 
 Cook's, in the British Museum. 
 
 Some of the idols are 12 feet high. Among the rarities are 18 model pictures of Japanese costumes 
 obtained at great risk ; and six coloured etchings by a Chinese artist, the Progress of the Opium-smoker, 
 a counterpart to Hogarth's "Rake's Progress." Admission by Director's or officer's tickets. 
 
 NATIONAL REPOSITORY, THE, was formed in 1828, in the upper gallery of the south- 
 west side of the King's Mews, Charing Cross ; and 35 adjoining rooms were reserved 
 for the reception of products from the chief manufacturing towns. Here were silk- 
 looms to work at certain hours, English Mechlin lace, crystallo-ceramic ornamental 
 glass ; models of steam-engines, steam-boat paddles, suspension-bridges, and public 
 buildings ; new kaleidoscopes, rain-gauges, musical glasses, Indian corn-mills, life- 
 buoys, &c. The exhibition proved unattractive, notwithstanding the King (George IV.) 
 and his Ministers took much interest in the project. The collection was removed 
 to a house on the east side of Leicester-square, and there merged into the " Museum 
 of National Manufactures and the Mechanical Arts." It was soon dispersed; but, 
 doubtless, suggested the Polytechnic Exhibitions at the Adelaide Gallery, and in 
 Regent-street and elsewhere. 
 
 NAVAL MUSEUM (" The Model Room"), Somerset House. Here were models of the 
 science and trade of ship-building, with sections of interior and exterior construction, 
 from the Great Harry and the Sovereign of the Seas 4 to our own time. In the 
 central room was a large model of the Victoria, 110 guns, laid down in 1839 ; and 
 above hangs a model of the Victory, built 1735, and lost in 1744, with an admiral and 
 its entire crew. Here also were models of the Bueentaur ; a Chinese Junk ; a Bur- 
 mese War-boat; the Queen, 110 guns; and the Agamemnon steam-screw war- 
 ship, 91 guns. This collection was removed to the Naval Court of the South Kensing- 
 ton Museum, in 1864. 
 
 PHARMACEUTICAL SOCIETY, THE,l7,Bloomsbury-square, incorporated 1842, possesses 
 the most extensive and complete Museum of the kind in existence ; comprising rare 
 specimens of the animal, vegetable, and mineral kingdoms ; and substances and pro- 
 ducts used in Medicine and Pharmacy. Also, groups and series of authenticated 
 specimens, valuable for identifying, comparing, and tracing, the origin and natural 
 history of products. Here is the valuable Museum of the late Dr. Pereira, including 
 collections of Cinchona barks by eminent foreign naturalists. The collection may be 
 seen daily, except Saturdays, by Member's order, or on application to the curator. 
 
 RACKSTBOW'S MUSEUM, at No. 197, was a Fleet-street sight of the last century. 
 Rackstrow was a statuary, and had Sir Isaac Newton's Head for a sign : his museum 
 consisted of natural and artificial curiosities and anatomical figures ; and " the circula- 
 tion of the blood, shown by a red liquor conveyed through glass tubes, made in imita- 
 tion of the principal veins and arteries of the human body ; the heart and its auricles, 
 and likewise the lungs, are put in their proper motions." Rackstrow died at his house 
 in Fleet-street, in 1772 ; and in seven years after, the collection was dispersed by 
 auction. One of the prodigies of the collection was the skeleton of a whale, more than 
 10 feet long. Donovan, the naturalist, subsequently exhibited here his London Museum, 
 which was soon after dispersed.
 
 600 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ROYAL SOCIETY'S MUSEUM, Burlington House, was commenced in 1665, with " the 
 collecting of a repository, the setting up a chemical laboratory, a mechanical operatory, 
 an astronomical observatory, and an optick chamber :" next year Evelyn presented " the 
 table of veins, arteries, and nerves, which he had made out of the natural human 
 bodies, in Italy." Sir R. Moray presented "the stories taken out of Lord Balcarras's 
 heart, in a silver box ;" and " a bottle full of stag's tears." Hooke gave " a petrified 
 fish, the skin of an antelope which died in St. James's Park, a petrified foetus," and 
 other rarities. In 1681, when Dr. Grew published his curious catalogue, the Museum 
 contained several thousand specimens of zoological subjects and foreign curiosities ; 
 among the eighty-three contributors are Prince Rupert, the Duke of Norfolk, Boyle, 
 Evelyn, Hooke, Pepys, &c. (Weld's History of the Royal Society, vol. ii. p. 278.) 
 Ned Ward (London Spy, part iii.) satirically describes this Museum of Wiseacres' Hall, 
 or Gresham College. The account of its rarities in Hatton's London, 1708, fills 20 
 pages ; and it is curious to observe how much it must have propagated error. Thua 
 we find among Dr. Grew's rarities : 
 
 " The Quills of a Porcupine, which, on certain occasions, the creature can shoot at the pursuing enemy 
 and erect at pleasure. 
 
 " The Flying Squirrel, which, for a good nut-tree, will pass a river on the hark of a tree, erecting his 
 tail for a sail. 
 
 " The Leg-bone of an Elephant, brought out of Syria for the thigh-bone of a giant. In winter, when 
 it begins to rain, elephants are mad, and so continue from April to September, chained to some tree, and 
 then become tame again. 
 
 " Tortoises, when tunied on their backs, will sometimes fetch deep sighs, and shed abundance of tears. 
 
 " A Humming-bird and Nest, said to weigh but 12 grains; his feathers are set in gold, and sell at a 
 great rate. 
 
 " A Bone, said to be taken out of a Mermaid's head. 
 
 " The Largest Whale, liker an island than an animal. 
 
 " The White Shark, which sometimes swallows men whole. 
 
 " A Siphalter, said with its sucker to fasten on a ship, and stop it under sail. 
 
 " A Stag-beetle, whose horns worn in a ring are good against the cramp. 
 
 "A Mountain Cabbage : one reported 300 feet high." 
 
 Of the Society's pictures there is a good catalogue by Mr. Weld, Assistant Secretary, 
 who has also, from the Charter-book, collected into a volume fac-similes of 300 of the 
 Fellows (from the period of the institution of the Royal Society to the present tune), 
 an illustrious set of autographs. 
 
 Relics of Sir Isaac Newton. An autograph note from the Mint Office ; one of the 
 solar dials made by Newton, when a boy ; his richly-chased gold watch, with a medal- 
 lion of Newton, and inscribed : " Mrs. Catherine Conduitt to Sir Isaac Newton. Jan. 4, 
 1708." " The first reflecting telescope, invented by Sir Isaac Newton, and made with 
 his own hands," 1761 ; the mask of his face, from the cast taken after death, which 
 belonged to Roubiliac ; a small lock of Newton's silver-white hair : and three portraits 
 of him in oil, painted by Jervas, Marchand, and Vanderbank. Here likewise is the 
 original model of the Safety-lamp, made by Sir Humphry Davy's own hands in 1815. 
 
 SAI/TEBO'S (DON) MUSEUM was first established at a coffee-house, afterwards the Swan 
 Tavern, in Cheyne-walk, Chelsea, in 1695, by one Salter, a barber, who assembled there 
 a collection of Curiosities : they remained in the coffee-room till August, 1799, when 
 they were dispersed by public auction ; previous to which printed Catalogues were 
 sold, with the names of the principal benefactors to the collection. In Dr. Franklin's 
 Life we read : " Some gentlemen from the country went by water to see the College, 
 and Don Saltero's Curiosities," at Chelsea. The collection is also noticed at p. 90. 
 
 SAULL'S MUSEUM, 15, Aldersgate-street, was a private collection, which the proprietor 
 liberally allowed to be inspected. The Antiquities, principally excavated in the metro- 
 polis, consisted of early British vases, Roman lamps and urns, amphora?, and dishes, tiles, 
 bricks, and pavements, and fragments of Samian ware ; also, a few Egyptian antiquities \ 
 and a cabinet of Greek, Roman, and early British coins. The Geological Department 
 contained the collection of the late Mr. Sowerby, with additions by Mr. Saull ; together 
 exceeding 20,000 specimens, arranged according to the probable order of the earth's 
 structure. Every article bore a descriptive label ; and the localization of the antiquities, 
 some of which were dug up almost on the spot, rendered these relics so many medals of 
 our metropolitan civilization. Mr. Saull, F.G.S., died in 1855, when the collection was 
 distributed to the British Museum and other institutions.
 
 MUSEUMS. 601 
 
 SLOANE MUSEUM, THE, collected by Sir Hans Sloane, at Chelsea, consisted of 
 natural and artificial Curiosities, which cost Sir Hans 50,0001. : after his death in 1753, 
 they were sold to Parliament for 20,000?., and formed the nucleus of the British 
 Museum. The collection consisted of a library of 50,000 volumes; MSS. upon natural 
 history, voyages and travels, and the arts, especially medicine; 23,000 medals and 
 coins ; anatomical preparations ; natural history specimens ; and an herbarium of 336 
 volumes. The Catalogue of the collection extended to 38 vols. folio, and 8 vols. 4to. 
 (See BBITISH MUSEUM, p. 574.) 
 
 SOANE MUSEUM, THE, 13, Lincoln's Inn Fields (north side), was founded and endowed 
 by Sir John Soane, the architect, with 30,OOOZ. 3 per cents, and a house in Lincoln's 
 Inn Fields, to support the Museum. At Soane's death, in 1837, the Trustees appointed 
 by Parliament took charge of the " Museum, Library, Books, Prints, Manuscripts, 
 Drawings, Maps, Models, Plans, and Works of Art, and the House and offices ;" 
 providing for the free admission of amateurs and students in painting, sculpture, and 
 architecture ; and general visitors. 
 
 The Museum is open to general visitors on any Wednesday, Thursday, or Friday in April, May, and 
 June ; and likewise on the Wednesdays in February, March, July, and August. 
 
 Admission is obtained by cards, to be applied for either to a Trustee, by letter to the Curator, or per- 
 sonally at the Museum. 
 
 Access to the books, drawings, MSS., or permission to copy pictures or other works of art, is granted 
 on special application to the Trustees or the very obliging Curator, Mr. Joseph Bonomi, who resides at 
 the Aluseum. 
 
 A general description of the Collection, abridged from that printed by Sir John Soane in 1835, may 
 be had at the Museum. The larger work (only 150 copies printed) is interspersed with poetical illustra- 
 tions by Mrs. Hofland. 
 
 The house, built by Mr. Soane in 1792, was in 1812 faced with a stone screen, in which 
 are introduced Gothic corbels, 12th century ; and terra-cotta canephorae, copied from 
 the caryatides of the Temple of Pandrosus at Athens. The entrance-hall is decorated 
 with medallion reliefs after the antique. The dining-room and library ceiling are 
 painted by H. Howard, K.A. Here are a large collection of drawings of buildings by 
 Sir John Soane ;* plaster models of ancient Greek and Roman edifices, restored ; a cork 
 model of Pompeii ; fictile vases, alabaster urns, and antique bronzes ; windows filled 
 with old stained glass ; busts of Homer, Shakspeare, Ben Jonson, Camden, and Inigo 
 Jones ; Greek and Etruscan vases, and Wedgwood's imitations ; Sir Joshua Reynolds' 
 Snake in the Grass, purchased for 510 guineas by Soane, at the Marchioness of 
 Thomond's sale ; and a portrait of Soane, almost the last picture painted by Lawrence, 
 1829. Here also is a walnut-tree and marble table, formerly Sir Robert Walpole's : 
 on this table is exhibited the celebrated Julio Clovis' MS. The Little Study contains 
 marble fragments of Greek and Roman sculpture, antique bronzes, and some natural 
 Curiosities. In the Monk's Yard are Gothic fragments of the ancient palace at West- 
 minster, picturesquely arranged to resemble a ruined cloister. In the Corridor are 
 casts from Westminster Hall ; and Banks's model of a Sleeping Girl, at Ashbourne ; 
 also two engravings, the Laughing Audience, and the Chorus, by Hogarth; and a 
 drawing by Canaletti. The Monk's Parlour has its walls covered with fragments and 
 casts of mediaeval buildings. The Monument Court contains architectural groups of 
 various nations. The Picture-room has moveable planes, which serve as double walls, 
 on each side of which are hung the pictures : here are Hogarth's Rake's Progress, 
 eight paintings, purchased for 570 guineas ; and Hogarth's Election, four paintings, for 
 1650 guineas ; also, three pictures by Canaletti, one, the Grand Canal of Venice, his 
 chef-d'oeuvre ; Van Tromp's Barges entering the Texel, by J. M. W. Turner, R.A. ; 
 the Study of a Head, from one of Raphael's Cartoons, a relic saved from the wreck 
 of the lost Cartoon, which remained in the possession of the family of the weaver 
 who originally worked the Cartoons in tapestry ; also copies of two other heads from 
 the same, by Flaxman ; pictures by Watteau, Fuseli, Bird, Westall, Turner, Callcott, 
 Hilton, &c. The fifteen Indian-ink Drawings of Psestum, by Piranesi, are very fine. 
 
 * Sir John Soane, the son of a Berkshire bricklayer, designed a greater number of public edifices 
 than any contemporary; from the Bank of England in the City, to Chelsea Hospital at the western 
 extremity; from Walworth in the southern to the Regent's Park in the north-western suburbs. His 
 last work (1833), the State Paper Office, in St. James's Park, was very unlike any other of his designs. 
 He died at his house in Lincoln's Inn Fields, Jan. 20, 1837.
 
 602 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Upon tables are displayed several illuminated MSS., a MS. Tasso, the first three 
 editions of Shakspeare, sketch-books of Sir Joshua Reynolds, and other curious works. 
 
 In the Catacombs are ancient marble cinerary urns and vases. In the Sepulchral Cham- 
 ber is the Sarcophagus discovered in 1817, by Belzoni, in a royal tomb near Gournou, 
 Thebes. It was bought by Sir John Soane of Mr. Salt, the traveller, in 1824, for the 
 sum of 20001. When first discovered, this Sarcophagus was considered by Dr. Young to 
 be the tomb of Psamnis ; and the hieroglyphics in the cartouche to indicate Osiezi- 
 menephtha, the father of Ramos II. ', although Sir Gardner Wilkinson considers it was 
 not that monarch's sarcophagus, but his cenotaph. Mr. Bonomi has illustrated to the 
 Syro-Egyptian Society Belzoni's very animated description of this Sarcophagus by a 
 section and plan of the catacomb, which is excavated to a depth of one hundred yards 
 into the solid rock. The sarcophagus is completely covered with hieroglyphics and 
 659 figures (each 2 inches high), all of which were originally filled in with a blue 
 paste. The subjects on both sides are of a religious character, while that on the floor 
 of the sarcophagus is personal. Two subjects of particular interest are pointed out, 
 one as representing the ancient Cosmical philosophy, and the other as exhibiting in a 
 very perfect manner the doctrine of the Metempsychosis. Mr. Bonomi also considers 
 that the sarcophagus reveals two remarkable features which have not been seen in 
 any other example : the first in the existence of two holes at each end of the lid, for 
 the admission of ropes to ensure the gradual adjustment of the cover into its proper 
 place ; and the next the evidence of a means of preserving the edges of the sarco- 
 phagus from fracture during the process of lowering, and affording the means of her- 
 metically closing it. It is formed of a large mass of arragonite, or alabaster : it is 
 9 feet 4 inches long, and 2 feet 8 inches deep. The seventeen fragments which formed 
 part of the cover have been put together : and 19 plates of the whole have been 
 carefully drawn by Mr. Bonomi, and described by Mr. S. Sharpe. 
 
 In the Crypt are several cork models of ancient tombs and sepulchral chambers 
 discovered in Sicily, the walls decorated with painting and sculpture; and in the 
 centre the remains of the deceased, amidst vases and other funereal accompaniments. 
 
 In various apartments are a plaster cast of the Apollo Belvedere, taken by Lord 
 Burlington about 1718 ; a marble bust of Sir John Soane, presented by the sculptor, 
 Chantrey ; a richly-mounted pistol, taken by Peter the Great from the Turkish Bey at 
 Azof, 1696, presented by Alexander Emperor of Russia to the Emperor Napoleon 
 at Tilsit in 1807, and given by him to a French officer at St. Helena ; also, a portrait 
 of Napoleon in his 28th year, by a Venetian artist ; and a miniature of Napoleon, 
 painted at Elba, in 1814, by Tsabey ; statuettes of Michael Angelo and Raphael, cast 
 from the model, by Flaxman, in Mr. Rogers's collection j marble bust of Sir William 
 Chambers; bust of R. B. Sheridan, by Garrard; carved and gilt ivory table and 
 chairs, formerly Tippoo Saib's ; the watch, measuring-rods, and compasses used by Sir 
 Christopher Wren ; a large collection of ancient gems and intaglios ; and a set of the 
 Napoleon Medals, once the Empress Josephine's. (See LIBEAEIES, p. 525.) 
 
 The Sculpture, Marbles, Casts, and Models, contain 40 specimens of Flaxman, including a plaster 
 cast of his " Shield of Achilles ;" 10 works of Banks ; and specimens of Michael Angelo, John de Bologna, 
 Donatello, Rysbraeck, Westmacott, Chantrey, Gibson, Daily, Rossi, &c. 
 
 The Architectural department includes drawings, models of buildings, and details. Among the 
 drawings are those of all Sir John Soane's works, and others by Piranesi, Zucchi, Bibiena, Campanella, 
 Thornhill, Chambers, Kent, and Smirke; and a volume of drawings by Thorpe, the Elizabethan archi- 
 tect. There are busts of Palladio, Wren, Chambers, Dance, &c. 
 
 The nine Etruscan Vases exhibit the variety of shapes to be found in much larger collections : one 
 (the Englefield) is of extreme rarity ; and the Cawdor vase is of extraordinary size and elegantly enriched. 
 Among the Roman antiquities are real specimens and casts from the temple of Jupiter Stator at Rome, 
 and of the Sibyl or Vesta at Tivoli, &c. 
 
 The Antiquities and Curiosities are as useful to artists and pattern-drawers as the new rooms in the 
 Louvre at Paris. The entire collection cost Sir John Soane upwards of 50,0001. 
 
 The Museum is not merely interesting as a sight or show-house, but of great service for artistic 
 study in architecture, sculpture, painting, and house decoration. The number of visitors in a year are 
 from 2000 to 3000 persons. The removal of the contents of the Museum has been proposed, to extend 
 
 its beneficial eifects; but it is urged, and we think with success, that the donor intended the Collection 
 
 should never be removed from its present location, as he fitted up the house for its reception in the most 
 
 -'aborate and peculiar manner. (See "A Morning in Sir John Hoane's Museum," in Walks and Talks 
 
 'tout London; and a paper, with four large engravings in the Illustrated London News, May, 1864). 
 
 SOCIETY OF ABTS, 18, John-street, Adelphi (the house built by the brothers Adam, in
 
 MUSEUMS. 603 
 
 1772-74), has Barry's celebrated pictures upon the walls of the Council-room, and a 
 few portraits, &c. ; to be seen gratis, between 10 and 4 daily, except Wednesday and 
 Sunday. The collection is constantly receiving interesting additions. 
 
 The Model Repository, 42 feet by 35 feet, on the ground-floor, contains one of the 
 most extensive collections of models in Europe. 
 
 Here are " hands for the one-handed, and other instruments for those who have lost both ; clothes of 
 all sorts of materials from all countries ; medals of Charles l.'s reign, and the last new stc ve of Victoria's; 
 fire-escape ladders to run down from windows and scaffolds, rising telescope fashion out of a box, to 
 mount roofs; beehives and turnip-slicers, ploughs and instruments to restrain vicious bulls, pans to pre- 
 serve butter in hot countries, safety-lamps; models of massive cranes and of little tips for umbrellas; 
 lite-buoys and maroon-locks; diving-bells and expanding keys; safety-coaches and traps; clocks, and 
 tail-pieces for violoncellos ; instruments to draw spirits and to draw teeth ; samples of tea, sugar, cin- 
 namon, and nutmegs, in different stages of growth; models of Tuscan pavement; beds for invalids; 
 methods to teach the blind how to write" (Knight's London) ; also, the first piece of gutta percha seen 
 in Europe, and presented to the Society 1813. 
 
 In the Ante-room, upstairs, are Nollekens's medallion of Jephtha's Vow, Barry's 
 picture of Eve tempting Adam, &c. The large pictures in the Council-room were 
 presented gratuitously by Barry, between 1777 and 1783, and were commenced when 
 he had but sixteen shillings in his pocket ! They are 1. Orpheus Civilizing the In- 
 habitants of Thrace. 2. A Grecian Harvest-home. 3. Crowning the Victors at 
 Olympia. 4. Commerce, or the Triumph of the Thames. 5. The Distribution of 
 Premiums in the Society of Arts. 6. Elysium, or the State of Final Retribution. 
 Barry has published etchings of these pictures, and has minutely described the subjects 
 in his published Works, vol. ii. p. 323, edit. 1809. They were exhibited, and pro- 
 duced Barry 500Z., to which the Society added 200Z. The Victors at Olympia is the 
 finest work of the series : Canova declared the sight of it to be worth a voyage to 
 England. In the Distribution picture are introduced portraits of Shipley, Arthur 
 Young, the Prince of Wales, Mrs. Montagu, Sir George Savile, Bishop Hurd, Soame 
 Jenyns, the two beautiful Duchesses of Rutland and Devonshire, the Duke of Rich- 
 mond, Lord Folkestone, William Lock, Edmund Burke, and Dr. Johnson. The 
 Retribution contains great and good men of all ages and times. Each of the latter 
 pictures is 42 feet long. Barry died in 1806, and his remains lay in state in the 
 room which the grandeur of his genius had so magnificently adorned. In the 
 ante-room is a portrait of Barry ; and in the large room are portraits of Lord 
 Folkestone, by Gainsborough : Lord Romney, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; a marble 
 statue of Dr. Ward, by Carlini ; busts of Dr. Franklin and Barry ; and casts of Venus, 
 Mars, and Narcissus, by John Bacon. 
 
 The Society have held in the Great Room annual Exhibitions of Decorative Manu- 
 factures, and ancient and Mediaeval Art ; and the collected works of Mulready, Etty, 
 and other artists of note. But the benefits which the country has derived from the 
 Society of Arts culminate in their initiative services in the origin and organization of 
 the Great Exhibitions of 1851 and 1862, under the wisdom-tempered zeal of the Royal 
 President of the Society, Prince Albert, the beneficial effects of whose sagacity, fore- 
 sight, and integrity in contributing to the true glory of the nation become, year by 
 year, the more fully appreciated. 
 
 SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM commenced with the erection in 1856 of an iron 
 structure under the superintendence of Sir W. Cubitt (which, from its engineering 
 unsightliness, got the sobriquet of " the Boilers"), and when completed was given by 
 the Commissioners of the Exhibition of 1851, into the possession of the Science and 
 Art Department. Since that date a permanent brick and iron structure, with terra- 
 cotta decorations, has been erected. The building was planned, and its construction 
 superintended up to the year 1865, by Captain Fowke, R.E. Its decorations, external 
 and internal, were designed by Mr. Godfrey Sykes, originally a student of the Sheffield 
 School of Art. The site is of irregular form, bounded on three sides by straight lines, 
 and with three slightly acute angles, the narrowed portion being towards the north or 
 rear. The two longer boundaries abut on the Cromwell and Exhibition Roads ; the 
 former measuring about 740 feet, the latter about 600 feet ; the principal front and the 
 entrances towards the south that is, Cromwell-road. It would occupy more space 
 than is at our disposal to describe the plan of the several Museum buildings, to be erected 
 from time to time, as the requisite funds are voted bv Parliament. The central portion
 
 604 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 is Italian in general effect. The most novel characteristics are due to the employment 
 of coloured materials namely, for the construction, bright red bricks, in two tints j 
 and for the ornament, terra-cottas of deep red, and a pale, but not harshly white, hue ; 
 tile tesserae in chocolate and warm grey for mosaics, inserted in panels on the front, 
 and for a large one in the pediment ; and majolica with white ground, relieved with 
 yellow and blue, for the soffits of the arches of the columnar recess in front, for the 
 arcades, &c. The great central columns are modelled with figures testifying the three 
 divisions of Man's Life, Childhood, Manhood, and Old Age, alternating with a bough 
 modelled from nature, and laid over fluting. The figures are mediaeval in character, 
 in the style of Michael Angelo and Raphael. The subject for the tile-mosaic of the 
 pediment is an allegorical representation of the Queen opening the great Exhibition of 
 1851. The columns above described stand before the new Lecture Theatre, a handsome 
 hall, calculated to seat about 600 persons. 
 
 The contents of the South Kensington Museum may be classified as follows : 
 
 1. The Art Collections, which now number 12,530 objects, illustrative of the history, principles, and 
 processes of decorative art in sculpture, carvings in wood and ivory, decorative furniture, metal work, 
 goldsmiths' work, jewellery and lapidaries' work, engraved gems, niello work, arms, armour, pottery, 
 glass, enamels, ancient lac work, textile fabrics, miniatures, &c. &c. An important feature in these col- 
 lections is the reproduction by means of casting, and electrotypy, of rare and costly works of art in 
 other countries, with which the Department of Science and Art is desirous of eft'ecting exchanges of 
 such reproductions. Another feature is the permanent Loan Exhibition of valuable objects of art be- 
 longing to private owners. The Museum also contains a large and valuable number of modern English 
 paintings mainly presented by the late Mr. Sheepshanks, and water-colour drawings, principally 
 bequeathed by Mr. Ellison, as well as the Cartoons of Raphael lent by her Majesty ; and it affords 
 temporary accommodation for the exhibition of many paintings of the British School which belong 
 to the National Gallery. 
 
 2. The Art Library, containing about 15,000 volumes relating to art, and a great number of original 
 drawings, illuminations, and engravings. 
 
 3. The Educational Museum and Library, containing many educational works in various European 
 languages, and scientific apparatus and diagrams, chiefly lent by the inventors and publishers. 
 
 4. The Museum of Construction and Building Materials, containing examples of materials and ap- 
 paratus of use in building, draining, and decorating houses; and many architectural models. 
 
 5. The Museum of Animal Products and Food Collection, principally formed by the transference by 
 English and Foreign commissions of collections exhibited in the International Exhibitions of London 
 in 1851 and 1862, and of Paris in 1855. 
 
 6. The Naval Models, belonging to the Admiralty, supplemented by loans from private builders and 
 owners. The Admiralty Collection shows the various changes "in the construction of meu-of-war from 
 1416 down to the present time. 
 
 The following are the terms on which the Museum is open to the public : 
 
 The Museum is open daily, Sundays excepted, free, on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Saturdays, from 
 10 A.M. till 10 P.M. The Students' days are Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, when the public are 
 admitted on payment of 6d. each person, from 10 A.M. till 4 P.M. Tickets of admission to the Museum, 
 including the Art-library and Educational Reading-room, are issued. 
 
 Here, also, is the Museum of Patents, mainly founded by Mr. Benet Woodcroft, and 
 greatly extended by the zeal of the present curator, F. Petit Smith. The collection 
 includes " patriarchal models," from the parent engine of Steam Navigation to the 
 model of the engine of the Great Eastern ; historical locomotives, and machines of 
 endless ingenuity ; with a collection of portraits of inventors, scientific library, &c. 
 (See PATENT SEAX OFFICE LIBBABY, p. 522.) 
 
 The authorities at the South Kensington have considerably encouraged mosaic decoration. Their 
 first proposition was to decorate with mosaics the facade of the picture-galleries of the 1862 Exhibition, 
 building. Subsequently they caused a number of mosaics of divers kinds to be inserted in various 
 parts of the new and permanent buildings of the South Kensington Museum. The most important of 
 these is the series of figures which are inserted in compartments of the wall-arcade of the south court 
 of the Museum. Of these the most important are Apelles, Mr. Poynter; Cimabue, Mr. F. Leighton, 
 A.R.A.; the Raphael, Godfrey Sykes; the Giorgione, Mr. Prinsep. 
 
 The Sheepshanks' valuable collection of Pictures by modern British artists is fully equal, and is in 
 some respects superior, to the Vernon Collection. The works of Leslie, R.A., and Mulready, R.A., can 
 nowhere be studied to greater advantage. Observe : Highland Drovers, The Shepherd's Chief Mourner, 
 Jack in Office, the Breakfast, all by E. Landseer, R.A. ; Duncan Gray and the Broken Jar, by Sir D. 
 Wilkie ; Choosing the Wedding Gown, The Ball, Giving a Bite, First Love, all by W. Mulready, R.A. ; 
 Scene from the Merry Wives of Windsor, Uncle Toby and Widow Wadman, both by C. R. Leslie, R.A. 
 Paintings in oil, 233 specimens ; Drawings and Sketches, 103 specimens. 
 
 On May 20, 1867, here was laid with great State, by Queen Victoria, the first stone 
 of " the Royal Albert Hall of Arts and Sciences," a vast elliptical building, of red 
 brick, with terra-cotta decorations, estimated to cost 200,000^. 
 
 TRADESCANTS' MnsEtrir, at South Lambeth (see p. 185), contained not only 
 stuffed animals and dried plants, but also minerals ; implements of war and domestic 
 use, of various nations ; and a collection of coins and medals. In the Catalogue en-
 
 MUSEUMS. 005 
 
 titled Museum Tradescaniium, 1656, we find, " Two feathers of the phoenix tayle ;" 
 " a natural dragon ;" and a stuffed specimen of the Dodo, helieved to have been ex- 
 hibited alive in London in 1638 ; its head and foot are preserved in the Ashmolean 
 Museum at Oxford, of which the Tradescants' collection formed the nucleus. 
 
 TEINITY HOUSE MUSEUM, Tower Hill, contains various models of lighthouses, 
 floating-lights, life-boats, and a noble model of the " Royal William," 150 years old. 
 Among the naval Curiosities is the flag taken by Sir Francis Drake, in 1588, from the 
 Spaniards; pen-and-ink plans of sea-fights, temp. Charles II.; Chinese map; pair of 
 colossal globes, &c. ; besides a large picture, by Gainsborough, of the Elder Trinity 
 Brethren, and numerous portraits and busts. To be seen by Secretary's order. 
 
 UNITED SERVICE INSTITUTION MUSEUM, Whitehall-yard, contains an Armoury, 
 Chinese cabinet and model gallery, antiquities, and an ethnological collection ; a lecture- 
 theatre and library. This institution, which was founded in 1830, under the patronage 
 of King William IV. and the Duke of Wellington, has the support of most of the 
 officers of rank in both services, and has received from her Majesty a Royal charter of 
 incorporation. 
 
 The visitor first passes through rooms containing the arms and armour of the Esquimaux, 
 New Zealander, inhabitants of the Polynesian Islands, Australia, and of Africa, and then enters 
 the European armoury. Round this room are displayed firearms from the time of Henry VIII. 
 to Victoria; in the windows are cases containing swords of heroes, amongst them the sword of 
 Cromwell which he carried at the siege of Drogheda ; a small sword of Nelson ; and dirks and 
 yataghans from the Greek Islands. In a spacious room are arranged a series of models of steam- 
 engines from the first appliance of steam to the screw-engines of the present time; here also are models 
 of tents by Major Rhodes and Mr. Turner. The next room contains a collection of the arms, accoutre- 
 ments, clothing, and field equipment of a soldier of the Line and rifleman of our own and of the Prussian, 
 Austrian, Belgian, and Sardinian armies, with the addition in the case of Sardinia of those of a cavalry 
 and artillery soldier. These have been presented to the institution by the respective Governments. The 
 grand staircase is guarded, as it were, by two men-at-arms of the time of Charles I. On the walls are 
 pikes, spears, helmets, and long two-handed swords, and on either side shirts of ringed mail of the time 
 of the Crusaders; a genuine English longbow of the time of Henry VIII.; and arrows taken out of the 
 citadel of Aleppo, supposed to be of the time of the Crusaders. The Asiatic Armoury has its walls 
 covered with spears, sabres, shields, matchlocks, and o*her descriptions of arms and armour from Borneo, 
 Java, and Ceylon, to the Punjaub and Afghanistan. In this room are also to be seen the dress worn by 
 Tippoo Sahib at the capture of Seringapatam, and the pistols taken from his body after his fall. Next 
 is the Enfield Rifle Room, where is exhibited the Enfieid rifle in all stages of manufacture, from speci- 
 mens of the raw material to the finished rifle. In the naval departments are models of vessels, from the 
 most perfect model of a line-of-battle ship, put together in a bottle by one of the French prisoners of 
 war in Norman Cross Prison, to a large one of the Cornwallls, 74, built in Bombay ; and from the heavy, 
 cumbrous build of the Dutch man-of-war of 1650 to the beautiful lines of the modern frigate ; also, models 
 of guns and anchors, Cuningham's plan for reefing topsails from the deck, Clifford's boat-lowering 
 apparatus, life-boats, and gun-rafts. Next are curiosities : from Drake's walking-stick to Cook's punch- 
 bowl and chronometer ; models of foreign craft, from the Maltese galley to the Malay-proa and the birch- 
 bark canoe of the Indian. Here, also, is the table made from the wood of the Victory when under 
 repair, on which are the relics of the various expeditions in search of Sir J. Franklin. Also, an 
 Australian Boomerang ; the stone upon which Capt. Cook fell dead at Owhyee ; war implements from all 
 parts of the world ; a piece of the deck of the Victory, from the spot on which Nelson fell ; Napoleon 
 Bonaparte's fusil, razor and shaving-brush, and fragment of his coffin ; articles found on the field of 
 Waterloo ; relics of the "Royal George, sunk 1782, and the "Mary Hose, 1545 ; chronological series of fire- 
 arms (James II. to William IV.) ; skeleton of the horse Marengo, rode by Napoleon at Waterloo ; Chinese 
 trophies and chain-shot; Polar bear and wolf shot by Sir George Back; wooden Chinese cage for human 
 prisoner ; first uniform worn in the British navy; hat of Lord Nelson; Chinese magic mirror ; models 
 of ships of all nations; fortification models; great model of Linz and its camp ; and pictures of battles. 
 Also, Capt. Siborne's Model of the Battle of Waterloo; scale, 9 feet to a mile, area 440 square feet; 
 showing the entire field, and the British, French, and Prussian armies, by 190,000 metal figures ; with 
 the villages, houses, farmyards, and clumps of trees : cost Captain Siborne 40001. ; purchased for the 
 Institution by subscription. Here, also, are Colonel Hamilton's model of the South of the Crimea ; 
 models of the different systems of fortification, with relics commemorative of the Peninsular, Waterloo, 
 and the Crimean campaigns. The Library contains between 11,000 and 12,000 volumes of works on naval 
 and military history, biography, improvements in arms, and general science. The topographical depart- 
 ment contains the naval charts, and maps, and plans, supplied by the Admiralty and War Departments ; 
 here on maps are marked out, by pins and coloured cards, warlike operations or peaceful movements 
 over the world. The reading-room is well supplied with the military periodicals of the day. During the 
 season lectures on subjects of passing interest, or bearing on the naval or military services, are delivered. 
 The United Service Institution is supported by entrance-fees, II. ; annual subscription, 10. The 
 public are admitted daily, free, by members' orders. 
 
 UNIVEESITY COLLEGE, Gower-street. The Anatomical Museum, based upon the 
 collection of Sir Charles Bell, consists of 4066 specimens in catalogue, and large addi- 
 tions. Also, the models in wax by Tuson, including the celebrated case of Ichthyosis 
 cornea ; 700 coloured drawings by Sir R. Carswell, and 200 by Armstrong ; the heart 
 and throat of Ramo Samee (the sword-swallowing Indian juggler), ob. 24 July, 1849 j 
 a Skull from the Wreck of the Royal George , bones and a Skull from ancient Greek
 
 606 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 graves; a Head from the Catacombs in Paris ; an Elephant's Heart ; reputed fragments 
 of bones of the Good Duke Humphrey and Kobert Bruce ; and a cast from Hervey 
 Leach (Hervio Nano), ob. March, 1847. Here, also, is the skeleton of Jeremy Bentham, 
 dressed in the clothes which he usually wore, and with a wax face modelled by Dr. 
 Talrych : also a portion of skin from the body of the first person obtained under the 
 New Anatomical Act (Lady Barrington). A Museum of Comparative Anatomy, and a 
 fine Materia Medica collection. The Natural Philosophy Models are good. In the 
 Drawing School are three marble figures in relief of the Hindoo Trinity, Brahma, 
 Vishnu, and Siva, dug up from the ruins of a city in a forest 50 miles east of Baroda. 
 In the School, also, is a collection of Casts, including the Apollo made in Rome for 
 Flaxman, the Laocoon, &c. 
 
 WATERLOO MUSEUM, Pall Mall, was a collection of portraits, battle-scenes, costumes, 
 and trophies, cuirasses, helmets, sabres, and fire-arms, from the field of Waterloo, 
 exhibited 1815. 
 
 WEEKS'S MUSEUM:, 3, Tichborne-street, established about 1810, was famed for its 
 mechanical Curiosities. The grand room, by Wyatt, had a ceiling painted by Rebecca 
 and Singleton. Here were two temples, 7 feet high, supported by 16 elephants, and 
 embellished with 1700 pieces of jewellery. Among the automata were the tarantula 
 spider and bird of paradise. Weeks's Museum has long been dispersed; after his 
 death, March 23, 1864, were sold many of the large mechanical pieces originally exhi- 
 bited at his museum, comprising the large swan of chased silver ; also^temples, birdcages, 
 clocks, and automaton figures, several with musical movements ; also a great variety of 
 clocks and candelabra, miniatures, musical birdboxes, watches, &c. The chased silver 
 swan was in the Great Paris Exhibition of 1867. Weeks's Gallery was subsequently 
 the show-rooms of the Rockingham Works, where, in 1837, was exhibited a splendid 
 porcelain dessert-service, made for William IV. : 200 pieces, painted with 760 subjects, 
 occupied 5 years, and cost 3000Z. In 1851 the place was refitted by Robin, the conjuror. 
 
 ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY'S MUSEUM, THE, was originally commenced in Bruton-street, 
 then removed to No. 26, Leicester-square ; and is now contained in a building erected 
 for it in the Society's Garden, Regent's Park, about 1843. This Museum was pro- 
 jected upon an extensive scale : during the earlier years of its formation, it was, 
 scientifically, the great collection of this country ; but it soon became eclipsed by the 
 rapid accumulation with which Dr. Gray enriched the galleries of the British Museum ; 
 and as the national collection gradually assumed the important place which it now 
 occupies among the great public institutions of Europe, the Council of the Zoological 
 Society withdrew from the competition, and concentrated their efforts towards their 
 Vivarium. Their Museum is arranged to convey an idea of the Generic Forms of the 
 Vertebrate Division of the Animal Kingdom. By this method, most of the essential 
 differences of form are well illustrated in a reduced number of specimens, so as to im- 
 press a casual observer with the distinctive features of each family, Among the animals 
 preserved are many of the rarest and most curious known to exist, and selected from, 
 the original collection, commenced with the gifts of Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, the 
 first President of the Zoological Society : and Mr. N. A. Vigors, its first Secretary. 
 
 PRIVATE COLLECTIONS. The following have been mostly dispersed ; or when they 
 exist can only be seen by private introduction to the proprietors. 
 
 Auldjo, Mr. John, Noel House, Kensington : an extensive assemblage of Antique 
 and Mediaeval Articles of Vertu; including a portion of a Greek glass vase, of similar 
 execution to the Portland Vase :' it is ornamented with foliage and birds, and was 
 found at Pompeii in 1833. This collection has been dispersed. 
 
 Givilt, Mr. George, 8, Union-street, Southward ; and Gwilt, Mr. Joseph, 20, 
 Abingdon-street, Westminster: Collections of Architectural Antiquities; the former 
 especially rich in Southwark relics (some Roman), old London Bridge, &c. 
 
 Londeslorough, the late Lord, 8, Carlton House-terrace, formed a collection of 
 Antiquities ranging from the earliest English period. Saxon remains, urns, arms, and 
 articles of personal decoration, principally excavated by his lordship from tumuli in 
 Kent. Also Irish gold antiques, valuable and curious j and mediaeval gold and silver
 
 MUSIC HALLS. 
 
 607 
 
 work in jewels, cups, &c., and a very fine collection of Anglo-Saxon relics, principally 
 ornaments, from the Isle of Wight. Arms and armour, artistically wrought and richly 
 decorated (but chiefly preserved at Grinistone, in Yorkshire). Lady Londesborough 
 also collected a series of many hundred antique rings, ranging from the early Egyptian 
 times to the seventeenth century. These collections were shown at conversazioni 
 given by Lord and Lady Londesborough during the London season. There is a 
 privately printed Catalogue, by Mr. T. Crofton Croker, F.S.A. 
 
 Magniao, Mr. H., 87, Jermyn-street, St. James's: a collection chiefly remark- 
 able for its fine Ecclesiastical Works crosiers, reliquaries, pyxes, &c. Also fine ex- 
 amples of Ancient Carved Furniture, and other specimens of mediaeval art. 
 
 Marryat, Mr. Joseph, author of a History of Pottery, until 1866 possessed a large 
 collection of Ceramic Works, particularly Flemish and German, but exhibiting gene- 
 rally the varied forms and peculiarities of the entire manufacture : formerly at Rich- 
 mond-terrace, Whitehall ; removed to the Ynescedwyn Iron-works, Swansea. 
 
 Morgan, Mr. Octamus, F.S.A., 9, Pall Mall, possesses a very valuable series of 
 Ancient Clocks and Watches ; particularly remarkable for its historic illustration of the 
 gradual improvement in Watches, from the earliest period to that of Quare and 
 Tompion. 
 
 Rothschild, the 'Baron Lionel de, 148, Piccadilly, has a costly collection of 
 Mediaeval Art. Also Antique Pottery, including a candlestick formed of white clay, 
 rare Henry II. ware (French), which cost the Baron 2201. : not more than 27 articles 
 of this ware are known to exist. 
 
 Sainsbury, Mr., 13, Upper Jlanelagh-street, Pimlico : Historical MSS. and 
 Autographs, 1473 to 1848 ; enamels, miniatures, medals, and coins ; books, drawings, 
 and prints; Shakspeare relics (including the Garrick cup); Napoleon Collection 
 exhibited at the " Napoleon Museum," at the Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly. This 
 collection has been dispersed. 
 
 Slade, Mr. Felix, Walcot-place, Lambeth, possesses a collection of Pottery and 
 Glass of the Middle Ages : the latter unmatched in examples of Venetian workmanship. 
 
 Windus, the late Mr. T., Stamford Hill, collected, in a building of style 1550, 
 carvings in ivory, mother-of-pearl, and wood ; crystals, antique gems, and rings ; 
 mosaics, cameos, medals, and coins ; Grecian pottery ; drawings by Rubens, Rembrandt, 
 and Vandyke j fac-simile of the sarcophagus in which the Portland Vase was found. 
 
 MUSIC HALLS. 
 
 rFHE following list of these places of entertainment, licensed by the Magistrates under 
 -L the Act of George II. for " music and dancing," together with the cost of building 
 and fittings, and the number of persons accommodated, is thus given in a statement 
 laid before Parliament : 
 
 Cost of No. of 
 
 Cost of No. of 
 
 Buildings Persons Ac- 
 
 Buildings Persons Ac- 
 
 and commodated 
 
 and commodated 
 
 Fittings. Daily. 
 
 Fittings. Daily. 
 
 Crystal Palace 
 
 
 1,000,000 
 
 100,000 
 
 Lord Raglan, Theobald's-rd. 12,000 ... 1,500 
 
 Agricultural-hall 
 
 
 50,000 
 
 20,000 
 
 Middlesex, Drury-lane 
 
 12,000 ... 1,200 
 
 St. James's-hall 
 
 
 60,000 
 
 6,000 
 
 London Pavilion, Tich 
 
 
 St. Martin's-hall . 
 
 
 50,000 
 
 4,000 
 
 borne-street 
 
 12,000 .. 
 
 2,000 
 
 Exeter-hall 
 
 
 50,000 
 
 6,000 
 
 South London, London-n 
 
 8,000 .. 
 
 1,200 
 
 Gallery of Illustra 
 
 ion 
 
 5,000 
 
 500 
 
 Marylebone 
 
 8,000 .. 
 
 800 
 
 Egyptian-hall 
 
 
 6,000 
 
 500 
 
 Oriental, Poplar 
 
 7,000 .. 
 
 800 
 
 Polygraphic-hall 
 
 
 6,000 
 
 500 
 
 Borough 
 
 6,000 .. 
 
 1,000 
 
 Polytechnic 
 
 
 20,000 
 
 1,000 
 
 Bedford, Camden-town . 
 
 6,000 .. 
 
 800 
 
 Alhambra, Leicester-sq. 
 
 60,000 
 
 5,000 
 
 Deacon's, Clerkenwell 
 
 5,000 .. 
 
 800 
 
 Oxford, Oxford-street 
 
 40,000 
 
 2,000 
 
 Trevor, Knightsbridge 
 
 6,000 .. 
 
 800 
 
 Strand, Strand ... 
 
 30,000 
 
 1,500 
 
 Sun, Knightsbridge 
 
 5,000 .. 
 
 800 
 
 Canterbury-hall, Lambe 
 
 25,000 
 
 1,500 
 
 Lansdowne, Islington 
 
 4,000 .. 
 
 600 
 
 Metropolitan, Edgware-r 
 
 25,000 
 
 2,000 
 
 Rodney, Whitechapel 
 
 3,000 .. 
 
 600 
 
 Eegent, Westminster 
 
 25,000 
 
 1,500 
 
 Apollo, Bethnal-green 
 
 3,000 .. 
 
 600 
 
 Wilton's, Wellclose-sq. 
 
 20,000 
 
 1,500 
 
 Westminster, Pimlico 
 
 3,000 .. 
 
 800 
 
 Evans's, Covent-garden 
 
 20,000 
 
 1,000 
 
 Nag's Head, Lambeth 
 
 2,000 .. 
 
 600 
 
 Weston's, Holborn 
 
 20,000 
 
 1,600 
 
 Woodman, Hoxton 
 
 2,000 .. 
 
 600 
 
 Philharmonic, Islington 
 
 20,000 
 
 1,500 
 
 Eastern Alhambra ... 
 
 2,000 .. 
 
 1,000 
 
 Highbury Barn, Highbu 
 Cambridge Shorcditch 
 
 y 20,000 
 16,000 
 
 2,000 
 2000 
 
 Swallow-street 
 
 2,000 .. 
 
 500 
 
 Winchester, Southwark 
 
 ! 15,000 
 
 aiooo 
 
 Totals, 41 places ... 1,667,000 ... 179,300
 
 608 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 From this list a number of small tavern-concert rooms are excluded. It should be 
 further diminished by the removal of the " Gallery of Illustration," which has been 
 licensed by the Chamberlain for theatrical entertainments. The first of these places 
 opened was CANTEBBUEY HALL, Lambeth, with its expensive decorations, its large 
 marble reliefs by Geefs; and its handsome Picture Gallery, and really good col- 
 lection of modern paintings. The new enterprise proved very successful, and there 
 sprang up in different quarters of the metropolis, Music-halls, the great majority of 
 which were successful speculations, and they are now more numerous than the regular 
 theatres. The second Music Hall was WESTON'S, High Holborn, of splendid, if not 
 tasteful ornamentation. 
 
 THE OXPOED, Oxford-street, is decorated in the Italian style, and is 94 feet in 
 length, 44 feet in width, between Corinthian columns which support the roof, with a pro- 
 menade beyond on each side. The ceiling is coved on to the walls, and springs from the 
 top of an ornamental entablature. The columns are arranged in pairs. A large glass 
 chandelier here has a very pretty effect from below, a tree of light. The hall is 
 lighted with star burners. 
 
 THE ALHAMBEA PALACE, Leicester-square, formerly the Panopticon, according to 
 a statement laid before Parliament, represents a capital of 100,0001., and employs 320 
 persons of both sexes, paying wages at the rate of nearly 4501. per week. It has 
 increased the wages of ballet-girls at least 20 per cent. It receives on an average 
 3000 visitors every night, at an average admission price of 1*. per head ; and the 
 expenditure of each person in drink, eatables, and cigars, averages about ^d. The 
 working classes, for whom an upper gallery capable of holding 1000 persons is pro- 
 vided, attend in large numbers. The item in the statement relative to the consump- 
 tion of refreshments shows that the money expended by the visitors on eating and 
 drinking amounts to little more than half the money received for admission. 
 
 PHILHAEMONIC HALL, Islington, is an Italian Eenaissance saloon, of large size, with 
 a classic entrance, Ionic distyle in antis. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S HALL is described at p. 426 ; and ST. MAETIN'S HALL at p. 427. 
 
 ETANS'S, Covent Garden, is mentioned at p. 294. This noble room, designed by 
 Finch Hill, was built in 1855, upon the garden in the rear of Evans's Hotel. It is in 
 a bold, handsome style, with a coved ceiling, richly ornamented. It is divided by 
 fluted columns into nave and aisles, and embellished with figures of Poetry, the Drama, 
 Music, &c. ; and it is brilliantly lighted by gas in ten richly-cut lustres. Here are sung 
 glees, madrigals, and other fine old melodies ; besides pieces from foreign operas, and 
 songs and ballads by living composers. 
 
 STEAND Music HALL, Strand, in the main building covers what was the site of 
 new Exeter Change, and the area and promenade is stated to contain about 6000 square 
 feet. The roof is of wrought iron and zinc, and here is the large lighting chamber, 
 with its 350 ventilating tubes, conducted into enormous shafts, to convey the vitiated 
 air out of the building. The gas-light from several thousand burners passes through 
 the coloured glass of the roof or ceiling, supported by cast-iron columns, with wrought- 
 copper foliated capitals. The Strand front (Keeling, architect), is partly of stone, five 
 stories, elaborately sculptured by Tolmie, with capitals, marble shafts, and medallion 
 heads of composers (Handel, Mozart, Rossini, Bishop, Mendelssohn, &c.), and metal 
 work. The porch has scarcely an inch of surface that is not carved : yet, notwith- 
 standing its sculptured heads, the building does not speak its purpose. Continental 
 Gothic is the basis of this eclectic design. 
 
 AGEICTTLTTTEAL HALL, Islington, is described at p. 424. Its exhibitions and 
 performances are miscellaneous. In 1865, the profits of the Horse show exceeded those 
 of 1865 by more than 1000Z., and those of the Cattle show by more than 9001. The 
 Metropolitan and Provincial Working Men's Exhibition in 1865 was visited by nearly 
 half a million persons, and produced to the Company a net rent of nearly a thousand 
 pounds. 
 
 HIGHBTTBY BASS', Islington, has one of the few remaining old assembly-rooms of 
 the last century ; and in addition, a very elegant theatre for dramatic performances.
 
 NEW RIVER. 609 
 
 GRECIAN, City -road, has a large and elegant Hall for dancing, and out-door orchestra, 
 and platform, in addition to a commodious Theatre. 
 
 HANOVER SQUABE ROOMS, on the east side of Hanover-square, were built for con- 
 certs and balls, by Sir John Gallini, formerly one of the managers of the Italian Opera 
 in this country. They have lately been re-decorated in elegant style. 
 
 The ceiling of the large room (the only decorations of which previously to these alterations were the 
 old pictures by Cipriani) has been ornamented with enrichments in composition and " carton, pierre;" 
 a trellis pattern being placed in the bands across the ceiling, and a laurel in the longitudinal bands, 
 with a crest ornament on the ceiling round each panel. The fluted pilasters on the walls have been re- 
 tained ; but the cornice over them has been deepened about 7 in., and has been enriched by the addition 
 of mouldings, and with festoons of fruit and flowers to the frieze all round. The old Royal box has been 
 re-constructed in wood and " carton pierre," surmounted by an arched top, having a lozenge with the 
 Eoyal cipher supported by the figures of two boys, the top being supported by two pilasters and the 
 figures of two female Caryatides, terminating in scroll-work, with fruit and flowers running down the 
 panels of the pilasters. The Iront of the orchestra has been ornamented with musical trophies and 
 festoons of fruit and flowers, with medallions placed over the two doorways at the sides. The panels 
 over the looking-glasses are each filled with a medallion, painted in bas-relief, of some of the most cele- 
 brated composers Bach, Beethoven, Handel, Haydn, Weber, Rossini, Purcell, and others, with their 
 names, and the century in which they flourished. In the two wide panels in the orchestra are painted 
 medallions of CaHcott and Bishop. The plinth round the room under the pilasters is decorated in imita- 
 tion of various coloured marbles. The Royal box is finished in white, tuff, and gold, with paintings re- 
 presenting Peace and Plenty, and the four Seasons, and crimson and gold damask hangings. The old 
 method of lighting by means of sunlights has been dispensed with, and a novel mode of lighting has 
 been introduced by suspendins from the ceiling, along each side, hemispheres of silvered glass, with the 
 flat sides upwards, having twelve jets to each, radiating to the centre, in a star-like form underneath. 
 Abridged, from the Builder. 
 
 STTBKEY Mtrsic HALL, Walwortb, was erected in 1856, upon the site of the Surrey 
 Zoological Gardens, Horace Jones, architect. The hall was oblong, with semi-octa- 
 gonal ends, and three tiers of galleries round three sides, the orchestra occupying one 
 end. There were four octagonal staircases, one at each corner ; and on the side 
 next the lake were two external galleries. The hall had an arched roof, and externally 
 cappings, partaking of the Chinese pagoda and the Turkish minaret. The vast 
 apartment was 153 feet long, 68 wide, and 77 high in the centre, and would hold 
 12,000 persons besides 1000 in the orchestra ; it was 20 feet longer and 30 feet wider 
 than Exeter Hall, and cost about 18,2002. Its acoustic properties were perfect. It 
 was opened in July, 1856. On October 19th, following, during a religious service here, 
 by the Rev. C. H. Spurgeon, eight persons were killed; and thirty seriously injured, 
 in consequence of a false alarm of fire raised in the hall. Its success as a musical 
 speculation was short-lived ; and the premises were subsequently let for the temporary 
 St. Thomas's Hospital, removed here from Southwark. (See p. 435.) 
 
 NEW RIVER, 
 
 A FINE artificial stream, yielding almost half the water-supply of London, or nearly 
 the whole of the City, and a large portion of the metropolis northward of the 
 Thames. The New River rises from Chadwell Springs, and springs at Amwell, between 
 Hertford and Ware, 21 miles from London, and is fed by the river Lea and wells sunk 
 in the chalk. One of these ancient springs the old Amwell spring oozed away 
 silently about 1830 into the bed of the Lea. The Chadwell spring, that mysterious, 
 circular, chalky pool in the Hertfordshire valley, which has been the drinking 
 fountain for centuries of countless thirsty millions, no longer gives forth drink with 
 its accustomed liberality. 
 
 The New River was projected by Hugh Myddelton, a native of Denbigh, and 
 " citizen and goldsmith/' 5 who proposed to the City to bring to London a supply of water 
 at his own cost. His ofier was accepted ; and April 20, 1608, was commenced the 
 work, with very imperfect mechanical resources. Myddelton embarked the whole of 
 his fortune in the undertaking; the original number of shares was only 36; the 
 labourers received balf-a-crown a day. The works were stopped at Eufield for want 
 of funds ; Myddelton applied to the citizens for aid, which they refused ; he then solicited 
 James I., who, on May 2, 1612, stood by his side and shared his venture. Prom 
 the Calendar of State Papers it appears that the total payments out of the Treasury 
 on account of the N6w River works amount to 8609/. 14*. 6d. The King obtained 
 thereby 36 shares for the Crown, of each of which the value is now about 17,000/., 
 and all of which the necessities of Charles I. compelled him to alienate for a fee-farm 
 
 B B
 
 610 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 rent of 500Z. a year ! The assertions that half-a-million was spent in the construction 
 of the New River, that Myddelton made it out of the profits of a Welsh silver mine, 
 that he died in poverty, &c., are without foundation. The river was constructed for 
 about 17,000., and Myddelton himself lived long enough to derive a large profit from 
 its financial prosperity. King James, by the way, tumbled into it ; and when he was 
 pulled out " there came much water out of his mouth and body ;" and much choler 
 thereupon when he afterwards encountered Myddelton, and complained of his omitting 
 to put up a fence. Sir Hugh was obliged to part with his 36 shares, when they were 
 divided among various persons ; these are called " adventurers' " shares. The 72 parts 
 into which the property is now divided are still counted as 36 " adventurers' " and 36 
 " King's " shares, and the Royal annuity is still paid out of the profits apportioned to the 
 latter. It is a curious fact that Sir Hugh precluded James from taking any part in 
 the management of the company, although he allowed a person to be present at the 
 meetings, to prevent injustice to his Royal principal. This preclusion still extends 
 to the holders of the Royal shares. The works were now resumed ; and on the 29th 
 Sept. 1613, five years and five months from the commencement of the undertaking, 
 nd the day on which Sir Thomas Myddelton, Hugh's brother, was elected Lord Mayor, 
 the water was let into the basin at Clerkenwell (which had been previously a ducking- 
 pond " an open, idoll pool ") with great ceremony, before the Lord Mayor, aldermen, 
 and principal citizens : a troop of labourers " wearing green Monmouth caps, and 
 carrying spades, shovels, and pickaxes," marched after drums round the cistern ; and 
 one man delivered forty-eight lines in verse, ending with : 
 
 " Now for the fruits, then. Flow forth, precious spring, 
 So long and dearly sought for, and now bring 
 Comfort to all that love thee ; loudly sing, 
 And with thy crystal murmurs struck together, 
 Bid all thy true well-wishers welcome hither." 
 
 " When the floodgates flew open, the stream ran gallantly into the cisterne, drummes 
 and trumpets sounding in triumphall manner, and a brave peal of chambers (guns) 
 gave full issue to the intended entertainment." There is an engraving by George 
 Bickham of this animated ceremony. It shows the water flowing into a round 
 reservoir, around which are grouped various persons, conspicuous among whom 
 is the Lord Mayor, upon a white horse. On his left is Sir Hugh Myddelton, 
 on the right is his brother, between Sir Thomas and Sir Henry Montague, the 
 Recorder. Bishop Parker speaks of "the greate distruction of cheese-cakes at the 
 opening of the New River;" Islington having long been celebrated for its cakes and 
 cream. 
 
 Then came the difficulty of distributing the water "by pipes of stone and lead." In 
 Hughson's London, vol. vi. p. 358, is the copy of a lease granted in 1616 by Hugh 
 Myddelton to a citizen and his wife "of a pipe or quill of half-inch bore, for the service 
 of their yarde and kitchene by means of two swan-necked cockes," for 26s. 8d. yearly. 
 And we read of the governor of Christ's Hospital, in 1631, paying for " New River 
 water 4-1" the year. And in 14th Report of Commissioners of Charities, up to 1825 : 
 Stafford's Ahnshouses in Gray's-inn-lane, for 10 persons, in 1651, stood upon half an 
 acre taken out of Liquorpond-field ; 30s. per annum paid to the New River Company 
 for water taken there. Such as lived at a distance from the main were supplied by the 
 water-carriers, who carried the water in wooden pails slung from a yoke across their 
 shoulders, and cried, "Any New River water here?" In Tempest's Cryes of London, 
 1711, is engraved one of these old water-bearers. Hone, in 1827, said the cry was 
 scarcely extinct; and we recollect water thus cried at Hampstead, about 1851. 
 
 Myddelton was created a baronet in 1 622. The proprietors were incorporated in 
 1619 as the New River Company, Sir Hugh being appointed the first governor, and 
 this being the first water company; although Ben Jonson, in 1598, says, "We have 
 water-companies now, instead of water-carriers." (Every Man in his Jfumovr.) 
 The Charter makes it a penal offence to cast into the river earth, rubbish, soil, 
 gravel, stones, dogs, cats, cattle, carrion, &c. ; prohibits, " under penalty of the 
 King's displeasure," persons from washing clothes, wool, &c., in it, and from conveying 
 thereto any sink, sewer, ditch, &c. ; and forbids the planting of sallows, willows, or
 
 NEW RIVER. 611 
 
 elms within five yards of it. In the Calendar of State Papers of this period are many 
 entries of grants of rents and profits, and places of emolument; but when, in 1665, 
 the King recommended Simon, son of Sir Hugh Myddelton, as clerk of the Company, 
 this appointment was refused. No dividend was made by the Company till 1633, 
 when III. 9s. Id. was divided upon each share. The second dividend amounted to 
 only 31. 4s. 2d. 
 
 Sir Hugh died December 10, 1631, and was buried in the churchyard of St. 
 Matthew, Friday-street, London. He died, holding shares in the Company, and 
 others in mines in Wales. He bequeathed to the Goldsmiths' Company one New 
 River Share, which formerly produced 3141. per annum, but does not now reach 200/. ; 
 the produce is distributed half-yearly among the poor of the Company, especially to 
 men of Myddelton's name or kindred. There is a fine portrait of Sir Hugh, by 
 Janssen, at Goldsmiths' Hall. 
 
 Lady Myddelton, the mother of the last Baronet, " received a pension of 2QI. per 
 annum from the Goldsmiths' Company, which, after her death, was continued to her 
 son Hugh, though he possessed other property : he was a person of dissipated habits, 
 and with him the baronetcy became extinct. In July, 1808, the Corporation of London 
 ordered an annuity of 501. to be paid to a male descendant of the Myddelton family, 
 then in great distress. Another lineal descendant, Jabez Myddelton, received a pension 
 of 52Z. per annum from, the Corporation until his death, 27th March, 1828 ; and in 
 July of that year, Mrs. Jane Myddelton Bowyer had 301. a year allowed her. This 
 annuity was reduced to 7*. a week in September, when Mrs. Plummer, another of the 
 family (since dead) was permitted to receive the same weekly stipend. The Cor- 
 poration have since passed a resolution to the effect that they will grant no more re- 
 lief to Myddelton's family." Pinks's History of Clerkenwell, p. 468. 
 
 The River, in its devious course from the fountain-head at Chadwell, meanders 
 through the towns and villages of Hoddesden, Cheshunt, Enfield, Hornsey, Stoke 
 Newington, and Islington; enters the parish of Clerkenwell at the bridge under 
 the Goswell-road, and flowing through Owen's-row, submerges beneath St. John-street- 
 road ; thence it proceeds between Myddelton-place and Sadler's Wells, and passing 
 beneath a third bridge, enters the Company's grounds, where its waters are received 
 into the great reservoir called its Head. By the formation, since the year 1852, of 
 more direct channels at Warmley, Theobalds, Forty Hill, Enfield, Southgate, Wood 
 Green, and Hornsey, the river has been shortened by about ten miles. The river, 
 between the Thatched House, Islington, and Colebrook-row, has, from the first, passed 
 through an underground arch or tunnel. The stream between Bird's-buildings and the 
 Head was covered by iron pipes in the year 1861. The Company obtained two Acts 
 of Parliament 1852, 15 & 16 Viet., cap. cix. ; and 1854, 17 Viet., cap. Ixxii. to 
 empower them to shorten the river, to filter the water, to cover their filtered water 
 reservoirs, and otherwise to improve and greatly enlarge their Works, at a cost of 
 nearly a million sterling. About where the New River enters Islington parish, it was 
 formerly conducted over the valley by an enormous wooden trough, 462 feet in length, 
 and 17 feet high, lined with lead, and supported on brick piers, and it then went by 
 the name of " the Boarded River ;" but in 1776, a passage for the stream was made 
 in a bank of earth nearly along the old track. There was a similarly boarded aque- 
 duct constructed at Bush-hill, Edmonton, in 1608. Myddelton's house here gave, 
 perhaps, the first occasion to the project ; and the great addition this stream made to 
 the pleasures of Theobalds, encouraged James I., who resided there, to have the design 
 completed, as it ran through his park and gardens. As a specimen of early engineer- 
 ing, this great work has an interesting and instructive history. 
 
 The New River Head is a vast circular basin enclosed by a brick wall, whence the 
 water is conveyed by sluices into large brick cisterns, and thence by mains and riders, 
 named according to the districts which they supply. Here is the Company's house, 
 originally built in 1613 : the board-room, over one of the cisterns, is wainscoted, and 
 has a fine specimen of Gibbons's carving; on the ceiling are a portrait of William III., 
 and the arms of Myddelton and Green. 
 
 North of the New River Head, the stream was formerly let into a tank or reservoir 
 under the stage of Sadler's Wells Theatre, which was drawn up by machinery for
 
 612 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 " real water" scenes, the water being sufficiently deep for men to swim in. Formerly, 
 in the fields behind the British Museum, the New River pipes were propped up six or 
 eight feet, so that persons walked under them to gather water- cresses. 
 
 The entire works have cost upwards of a million and a half of money. The main source 
 of supply is now the River Lea. The water has only been filtered since 1852 : the filter- 
 ing-beds, gravel and Harwich sand, have cost upwards of 35,000?. The water having 
 reached the Works at Islington, is there filtered, and delivered into a tunnel 800 feet 
 long, and 8ft. by 6ft. 6in. diameter, whence it is passed by steam-engines of 300 horse 
 power, into the service reservoir and distributing mains : the channels at Islington, 
 by Mylne, contain two millions and a half of bricks. The east service reservoir at 
 Pentonville, built in hydraulic lime, contains 4 millions of bricks, of which nearly 
 40,000 were laid in one day ; and the covering of this reservoir cost 21,OOOZ. The 
 Stoke Newington Works comprise five filter-beds, each exceeding one acre, fed from a 
 reservoir, which covers nearly 40 acres; and the engine-house contains six steam- 
 engines 1000 horses which convey the water to service reservoirs, near Highgate, 
 each of which will contain 7-^ million gallons of filtered water. Notwithstanding 
 this is the oldest metropolitan water supply, it is still called New River. The 
 Company have removed their old aqueducts and reservoirs in different parts of the 
 metropolis, and have built on the sites they occupied. The well-known canal which 
 used to supply the real water to Sadler's Wells Theatre has been drained dry, and 
 filled in, and large iron water-pipes have been placed in its bed. The reservoir in 
 Coppice-row has also been removed. The name of Myddelton is honoured in Clerkenwell 
 and Islington : street and square and hall bear his name, as well as Chadwell and 
 Am well ; and of Mylne, the engineer of the Company. Upon Islington-green is a 
 portrait statue of Sir Hugh Myddelton, presented by Sir Morton Peto, Bart., M.P. ; 
 it is the work of John Thomas, and is of Sicilian marble, 8 feet 6 inches high, the 
 figure being in the costume of the period. It is on a pedestal sculptured with dolphins 
 and nautilus- shells, fountains, festoons of shells, water-flowers, &c. ; the group in the 
 centre of a basin for water, with a bold ornamental curb, in the Italian style. 
 
 The marketable value of the Company's shares has varied considerably at different periods. In 1727, 
 a King's share was valued at 5000 guineas ; in 1766, the clear annual value of a King's share was 1547. ; 
 in August, 1770, a similar share, said to yield 2407. per annum, was advertised for sale, and fetched 
 70007. ; in 1805, one was sold at the Senegal Coffee House for 44007. ; at Garraway's, in 1813, an adven- 
 turer's share produced 80007., and in 1814, 74507. ; in August, 1822, a moiety of one of the same shares 
 sold lor 47257. In 1838, an original share sold for 18,000 guineas ; in 1837, two quarter shares were sold 
 at the rate of 18,9007. per share ; and in the beginning of 1839, two whole shares were sold, one for 
 17,0007., the other for 17,5007. On Jan. 28, 1852, three-sevenths of a quarter of a King's share sold for 
 It007., the dividend on this portion producing 907. per annum. The value of a share at the present time 
 is about 20,0007. Sir Henry Ncvill, Knt., who was one of the original adventurers with Myddelton, 
 mentioned among the grantees of the Company's Charter, June 21, 1619, and who died in 1629, pos- 
 sessed two parts in thirty-six parts of the Water-course and New River running from Chadwell and 
 Amwell, then valued at!37.0.4d. per annum. The annual rental of the Company in 1851 was 135,7947., 
 and it is now 204,7507. About 112,000 houses are now supplied with water by the New River. The 
 daily supply is 25 millions of gallons. The Company have nearly 600 miles of pipes, &c., valued at 
 about 600,0007. 
 
 NEW-ROAD. 
 
 THE New-road was formed by Act of Parliament of the 29th of Geo. II., in the 
 year 1V56, but not without much petty opposition thereto from the landholders 
 whose property lay in the line of the proposed new route to the west-end. Horace 
 Walpole notices, in one of his letters, the objection of the Duke of Bedford to it on 
 account of the " dust it would make in the rear of Bedford-house ;" and adds, that " the 
 duke is too short-sighted to see the prospect." A complaint was made by one of the 
 Duke's tenants^ who held from him a large cow-farm in the intended route, at a rental 
 of 3/. an acre, " that the dust and the number of people must entirely spoil her fields, 
 and make them no better than common-laud j she intreats his Grace to prevent such 
 an evil, as it would be impossible for her to hold his estate without a large abatement 
 of rent." 
 
 On such frivolous opposition the Public Advertiser, of Feb. 20, 1756, remarks that 
 " all objections to new roads, which arise merely from partial and separate interests, 
 that happen in this respect to be opposite to the interests of the public, should have no
 
 NEW-ROAD. 613 
 
 weight." The journalist then proceeds to notice the advantages to the public in general 
 of the proposed thoroughfare. " How much the communication with almost every 
 part of the metropolis will be facilitated. Drovers from the west will pass from the 
 extremity of the city to the centre in one continued straight line. Persons that have 
 business in other parts may reach them by cross-roads communicating witli the main 
 line ; and persons of fashion, who live in the great squares and buildings about Oxford- 
 road, may come into the city without being jolted three miles over the stones, or 
 perhaps detained three hours by a stop in a narrow street. It must also be remem- 
 bered that those who shall find it necessary to pass through the streets will pass much 
 more commodiously, as the number of carriages will be lessened and the pavement 
 preserved." 
 
 In the preamble of the Act of 29th Geo. II., it is stated, " that in times of threatened 
 invasion, the New Road will form a complete line of circumvallation, and his Majesty's 
 forces may easily and expeditiously march their way into Essex to defend our coasts, 
 without passing through the cities of London and Westminster." 
 
 When this great trunk-line of road was in course of construction, the progress made 
 upon it was from time to time noticed in the public journals. Thus, under date May 8, 
 1756, we are apprised of its early commencement by being informed that on the 
 Wednesday following, the trustees would meet, and that on the next day the men were 
 to work upon it. At this period the expense of making the road was computed at 
 8000?. After the lapse of a few months, during the interval of which the road-makers 
 must have worked industriously, the following appeared in print on the 13th of 
 September, 1756 : " It is with pleasure we assure the public that great numbers of 
 coaches, carriages, and horsemen daily pass over the New-road, from Islington to Battle- 
 bridge." Five days later, September 17th, we are informed that the banks and fences 
 of the land between Paddington and Islington were levelled, and the New Road across 
 the fields opened to the public. In the December of 1756, the expensiveness of the 
 road was adverted to, and 100,000 cart-loads of gravel estimated to be required for its 
 completion. 
 
 Within half a century, Bedford House was levelled to the ground, and the fields 
 beyond it are now covered with houses, enlarging by many thousands the income of the 
 Bedford family, with a reversionary interest in a city of itself. The New-road is the great 
 omnibus route from Paddington to the City ; whereas in 1798 only one coach ran from 
 Paddington to the Bank, and the proprietor was nearly ruined by the speculation ! 
 Shillibeer, the first omnibus-proprietor, fared no better in 1829. 
 
 The pleasant aspect of this grand thoroughfare during several months of the year, 
 which the trees and the gardens in front of most of the houses contribute chiefly to 
 impart, is owing to a clause in the original Act for making the road, prohibiting the 
 erection of any building within 50 feet of it ; whilst at the same time it empowers the 
 authorities of parishes through which the road passes to pull down any such erection, 
 and levy the expenses on the offender's goods and chattels. The lapse of a century, 
 however, seems to have materially modified this penal enactment, for numerous are the 
 instances in which the 50-feet plot is built upon. 
 
 The' New-road is now variously named as follows : Between the Angel at Islington 
 and King's-cross, the Pentonville-road ; from King's-cross to Osnaburgh- street, 
 Huston-road ; and from Osnaburgh-street to Edgware-road, the Marylebone-road. 
 J. T. Smith has left this reminiscence of the New-road : 
 
 Wilson was fond of playing at skittles, and frequented the Green "Man public-house in the New-road, 
 at the end of Norton-street, originally known as " The Farthing Pye House ;" where bits of mutton 
 were put into <t crust shaped like a pie, and actually sold for a farthing. This house was kept in my 
 boyish days bv a vary facetious man named Price, of whom there is a mezzotinto portrait. He was an 
 excellent salt-box player, and frequently accompanied the famous Abel when playing on the violoncello. 
 \Vilkes was a frequenter of this house, to procure votes for Middlesex, as it was resorted to by many 
 opulent freeholders. 
 
 In 1856, Harley House, in the New-road, was the residence of the ex-Royal Family 
 of Oude, with their retinue, 110 persons. Here were the young Prince, the heir-ap- 
 parent, and his uncle, brother to the deposed King ; and the Queen Mother, with her 
 female attendants, some thirty in number.
 
 614 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 NEWGATE- STREET, 
 
 NAMED from the City-gate at its east end, has on the south side the end of New- 
 gate Prison, and extends eastward to Cheapside, with lanes and courts on the south 
 leading to Paternoster-row. On the north side is the front of the great hall of Christ's 
 Hospital, built upon the site of Grey Friars' monastery; the principal gates have cha- 
 racteristic casts and sculpture. Nearly' opposite is Warwick-lane, with a bas-relief of 
 Guy Earl of Warwick, dated 1668. In the Lane was the old College of Physicians, 
 taken down in 1866. Here are the old inns, the Sell and Oxford Arms. Next is 
 Ivy-lane, " so called of ivy growing on the walls of the Prebend-house." (Stoiv.) 
 Dr. Johnson, in 1748, with Hawkesworth and Hawkins, formed a Club for literary 
 discussion. Here also have lived publishers for two centuries. 
 
 " I was at Kayston's shop, in lyie Lane, Febr. the 8, 1661. Hee printed the Marquis of Winchester's 
 conference with the King; hee printed most of the Royalists' Works, as Hamonds', Taylor's pieces, and 
 others." Diary qfthe Rev. John Ward. 
 
 On the north side, up a passage, is Christ Church, described at p. 157. Next is 
 King Edward-street, so named in 1843 ; formerly Blowbladder-street, Butcher-hall- 
 lane, Chick-lane, and Stinking-lane. Above Bull-head-court, is a stone bas-relief of 
 William Evans, 7 feet 6 inches high, porter to Charles I. j and Jeffrey Hudson, the 
 King's Dwarf, 3 feet 9 inches high. Bath-street, first Pincock or Pentecost-lane, and 
 next Bagnio-court, was named from there being here the first bagnio in town, after the 
 Turkish manner. (See BATHS, p. 38.) 
 
 In Newgate-street, nearly opposite, is Panyer-alley, where is the sculptured stone 
 described at p. 516 : it is stated by Stow to have been a sign. In Ben Jonson's 
 Bartholomew Fair we read of the stinking tripe of Panyer-alley. In Queen's Head- 
 passage is a Queen Anne tavern, now Dolly's Chop-house : Gainsborough is said to- 
 have painted Dolly. The Passage is named from the Queen's Head Tavern, which 
 occupied the site of the premises of Alderman Sir B. S. Phillips, Lord Mayor, 1865-6. 
 
 NEWINGTON, OR NEWINGTON BUTTS, 
 
 A LARGE parish in Surrey, adjoining St. George, Southwark, north and east; 
 Camberwell, south ; and Lambeth, west. In Domesday Book (llth century), the 
 only inhabited part of this parish was Walworth, where, according to the Norman 
 survey, was a church, upon the rebuilding of which on a new site it probably became 
 " surrounded with houses, which obtained the name of Neweton, as it is called in the 
 most ancient records ; it was afterwards spelt Newenton and Newington." (Lysons's 
 Environs, vol. i. p. 389.) Here were butts for archery practice : the earliest record of 
 Newington Butts is in the register of Archbishop Pole at Lambeth, date 1558. In the 
 reign of Henry VIII. (1546), three men were condemned as Anabaptists, and " brent 
 in the highway beyond Southwark, towards Newenton." (Stow's Chronicle, p. 864.) 
 The only manor in the parish is Walworth, given by King Edmund Ironside to Hitard, 
 his jester, who, in the reign of Edward the Confessor, gave the vill of Walworth to 
 the monks of Christ Church at Canterbury. They received from Edward II. a grant 
 of free-warren here; and in the reign of Edward III. and Richard II., and subse- 
 quently, the manor is said to have been held by persons of a family named from this 
 place : thus, Margaret de Walworth, lady of the manor in 1396, was the widow of the 
 famous Sir William Walworth ; and at Walworth is a modern sign of his killing Wat 
 Tyler in Smithfield. In the museum of the Society of Antiquaries is a dngger which 
 was found on the supposed site of Sir William's house at Walworth. (See FISH- 
 MONGERS' HALL, p. 401.) Sir George Walworth died seized of the manor in 1474. 
 In the valuation of Church property, 26 Henry VIII., it is rated at 37/. 8*. In the 
 reign of Henry III., the queen's goldsmith held of the king, in capite, one acre of 
 land in Neweton, by the service of rendering one gallon of honey. The old church 
 (St. Mary's) is described at p. 187. There are district churches and various sectarian 
 chapels. South of Newington Causeway (the first road across the swampy fields) is 
 Horsemonger-lane, opposite which was formerly a hay-market. In the lane are the 
 County Gaol and Surrey Sessions-house, built upon the site of a market-garden, three 
 and a half acres, by George Gwilt, 1798-9. At Walworth, upon a demesne once
 
 NEWSPAPERS. CIS 
 
 attached to the manor-house, were the Surrey Zoological Gardens, whither Cross re- 
 moved his menagerie from the King's Mews in 1831 ; and where, in 1856, was 
 built a large Music Hall, described at p. 609, subsequently occupied as St. Thomas's 
 Hospital. In Wai worth -road is a handsome Vestry-hall, Lombardic in style, red brick, 
 with dressings of Portland stone, and shafts of polished red granite. 
 
 Maitland notes: west of the Fishmongers' Almshouses (see p. 8) "is a moorish ground, with a 
 small watercourse denominated the river Tygris, which is part of Cnut's trench ; the outflux of which is 
 on the east side of Rotherhithe parish, where the Great Wet Dock is situate." In 1823, when the road 
 between the almshouses and Newington Church was dug up for a new sewer, some piles and posts were 
 discovered, with rings for mooring barges; also a pot of coins of Charles II. and William III. A 
 parishioner named Farns, who died, aged 109 years, early in the present century, remembered when 
 boats came up this " river " as far as the church at Newington. (Brayley's Surrey, vol. iii. p. 405.) The 
 old Elephant and Cattle is noticed at p. 453. 
 
 NEWINGTON, OR STOKE NEWINGTON, 
 
 IN Domesday, Newtone, and Stoke Neweton as early as 1391, is named from the 
 Saxon stoc, wood, it having been part of the ancient forest of Middlesex ; and in 
 1649 here were upwards of 77 acres of woodland in demesne. It is separated from 
 Hackney and Ossulston by the great road, anciently the Ermen-street. Tradesmen's 
 tokens were issued from here in the 17th century : one exists with " Laurence Short. 
 Adam and Eve" (in the field between Islington church and the City-road) ; and 
 another, " John Ball, at the Boarded House, neere Newington Greene," who kept a 
 low house for bull-baiting, duck-hunting, &c. at Ball's Pond, long since filled up, but it 
 gives name to a little hamlet. At Stoke Newington Daniel Defoe (whence Defoe- 
 roacT) and Thomas Day (Sandford and Mertori) were educated; John Howard 
 the philanthropist lodged here, and married his landlady ; Hannah Snell, the 
 soldier, lived in Church-street; here died Mrs. Barbauld, in 1825, in her 82nd 
 year. The mansion of Sir Thomas Abney, where Dr. Watts resided with his pious 
 friend, existed until 1841, when the fine grounds were converted into the Abney Park 
 Cemetery. Mrs. Abney, the daughter of Sir Thomas, ordered by her will that this 
 estate should be sold, and the produce distributed in charitable donations, which was 
 accordingly done : it amounted to many thousand pounds. 
 
 Newington Green, in the parishes of Stoke Newington and Islington, had, within the 
 present centuiy, several ancient houses, one of which, on the south side, was tra- 
 ditionally a palace of Henry VIII. ; and a path leading from the Green to Ball's Pond 
 turnpike has been, time out of mind, called King Henry's Walk : the house was, how- 
 ever, evidently built in the reign of James I. At the north-west corner of the Oreon 
 was " Bishop's Place," where Henry Algernon, Earl Percy, is said to have written 
 his memorable letter disclaiming matrimonial contract with Queen Anne Boleyn, dated 
 "at Newington Greene," the 13th of May, 28th Henry VIII. Thomas Sutton, 
 founder of the Charterhouse, was once an occupant of the Manor House ; one of its 
 ancient hostelries, the Three Crowns, was the place of refreshment for James VI. of 
 Scotland when he was met on Stamford-hill by the Lord Mayor, on his way from Holy- 
 rood to London ; and the Earls of Bath and Oxford had mansions here. Here lived 
 several of the ejected ministers, towards the close of the 17th century : Colonel Popham 
 and Charles Fleetwood, two of Cromwell's best men ; and many of the heroes of the 
 Eevolution of 1688 found shelter here. Adjoining Bishop's Place was a porch-house, 
 wherein was born, in 1762, Samuel Eogers, the poet. 
 
 Stoke Newington is one of the few rural villages in the immediate environs. 
 Though, as the crow flies, but three miles from the General Post Office, it is still rich in 
 parks, and gardens, and old trees. Here is a cedar which dates from the first intro- 
 duction of this noble tree into England ; mulberry, oak, walnut, and elm trees abound ; 
 gardens where horticulture is practised according to the latest lights j and here was 
 established the first Chrysanthemum Society. 
 
 NEWSPAPERS. 
 
 THE earliest printed London newspapers are preserved in the British Museum, and 
 described at p. 585. The News of the Present Week, edited by Nathaniel Butler, 
 was ridiculed in Ben Jonson's Staple of News, 1625; and a few months after, in Fletcher's
 
 616 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Fair Maid of the Inn : it was sold " at the Exchange, and in Pope's-bead Pallace." 
 In 1G96 there were nine newspapers published in London, all weekly. In 1709 the 
 newspapers had increased to eighteen : in this year appeared the Daily Courant, the 
 first morning paper ; and to the reign of Queen Anne the first publication of " regular 
 newspapers " must be referred. In 1724 there were three daily, six weekly, seven 
 three times a week, three halfpenny posts, and the London Gazette twice a week; in 
 1792, thirteen daily, and 20 semi-weekly and weekly papers. 
 
 The English Chronicle, or Whitehall Evening Post, was started 1747 ;* the 
 Public Ledger WRS commenced Jan. 12, 1760, by Newbery, the bookseller, and in it 
 appeared Goldsmith's Citizen of the World; the St. James's Chronicle, 1761 ; and the 
 Morning Chronicle, 1769. 
 
 The Morning Chronicle was conducted by William Woodfall till 1789, when he was suc- 
 ceeded by James Perry, who introduced the present system of reporting the debates in 
 Parliament. Mr. (Serjeant) Spankie was long editor of the Chronicle; Lord Campbell com- 
 menced on it his London career, and was its theatrical critic in 1810. Coleridge and 
 Campbell were contributors. Sheridan names the Chronicle in his Critic : Canning in 
 a poem ; Byron addressed to it a familiar letter : Hazlitt was its theatrical critic ; 
 and here first appeared Sketches by Boz (Charles Dickens). After Perry's death 
 (1821), the Chronicle was purchased for 42,0002. by Mr. Clement, who, in 1834, sold 
 it to Sir John Easthope, Bart., who was connected with it until 1847. The Chronicle 
 was discontinued March 20, 1862. Until 1822, it was printed at 143, Strand: and in the 
 same office was subsequently printed, by John Limbird, the Mirror, the first of the 
 cheap illustrated periodicals. 
 
 The Morning Post, established in 1772, circulated in 1795 only 350 a-day. Coleridge, in 
 his Table-Talk, states that he raised the sale in one year tc 7000 ; in 1803 it was 4500: 
 
 " Coleridge, long before his flighty pen 
 Let to the Morning Post its aristocracy." Byron's Don Juan. 
 
 Sir James Mackintosh and Charles Lamb were also contributors; and Mackworth 
 Praed, the poet, was some time editor. 
 
 The Morning Herald was commenced November 1, 1780, by Mr. Bate, afterwards 
 Sir Henry Bate Dudley, who seceded from the Morning Post. 
 
 The Times was commenced by John Walter, in Printing-house-square, Blackfriars, 
 previously the site of the King's Printing-House.f The first number, January 1, 
 1788 (that in the British Museum has no stamp), was a continuation of the Daily 
 Universal Register, No. 939, which, with the Times, was " printed logographically," 
 i. e. with stereotyped words and metal letters. In 1803, the late John Walter, son 
 of the above, became joint-proprietor and exclusive manager of the Times, whence by 
 priority of its intelligence, it has risen to be the " leading journal of Europe." The 
 Times of November 29, 1814, was the first newspaper printed by steam, from two 
 machines made by Koenig, which produced 1800 per hour, until 1827, when they were 
 superseded by Applegath and Cowper's four-cyHndered machine, yielding 5000 im- 
 pressions per hour; and in 1848 was erected Applegath's vertical machine, 
 producing 8000 copies in an hour. Mr. Walter died in Printing-house-square in 1847, 
 bequeathing a large personal estate, and having erected and endowed a handsome 
 church at Bearwood, Berks. He devised his interest in the Times to his son, John 
 Walter, M.P. for Nottingham, the present proprietor ; the journal being thus still in the 
 hands of the family of its founder, and in this respect standing alone amongst the 
 morning papers. (Hunt's Fourth Estate, vol. ii. p. 153.) Amongst the many valuable 
 services rendered by the Times to the commercial world, was the detection and ex- 
 posure of the Bogle conspiracy in 1841 ; in indemnification of which, 2625/. the Times 
 Testimonial was subscribed by the London merchants and bankers, but was declined ; 
 and the amount was invested in scholarships at Christ's Hospital and the City of 
 London School, where and in the Royal Exchange are -commemorative tablets, as also 
 upon the fagade of the Times Office. 
 
 The Times Printing Machinery may be inspected by previously obtaining cards, at 
 
 * There had previously been a London ChronicU, which was regularly read by George III., whose 
 copy of it may be seen in the British Museum. Hunt's Fourth Estate, vol. ii. p. 99. 
 
 t Beneath the Times Office is a fragment of the Roman wall, upon which is a Norman or Early Eng- 
 lish reparation ; and upon that are the remains of a passage and window, which probably belonged to 
 the Blackfriars monastery. National Miscellany, October, 1853.
 
 NEWSPAPERS. 617 
 
 31 A.JI., when the second edition of the paper is heing printed. We can only describe 
 generally this great improvement in newspaper printing a machine in which the type 
 is placed on the surface of a cylinder of large dimensions, which revolves on a vertical 
 axis, with a continuous rotary motion. The cylinder is a drum of cast iron ; the form, 
 or pages of type, are made segments of its surface, just as a tower of brick might be 
 faced with stone. Eight printing cylinders are arranged round the drum, and eight 
 sheets are printed in every revolution. The type only covers a small portion of the 
 circumference of the drum, and in the interval there is a large inking jbable, fixed like 
 the type on its circular face. This table communicates the ink to eight upright inking 
 rollers, placed between the several printing cylinders the rollers, in their turn, com- 
 municating the ink to the type. So far the arrangement is perfectly simple, the 
 machine being, in fact, composed of the parts in ordinary use, only made circular and 
 placed in a vertical instead of a horizontal position. The great problem of the inventor 
 was the right mode of " feeding," or supplying the sheets of paper to their printing 
 cylinders in their new position or changing the sheet of paper (the Times newspaper) 
 in less than four seconds, from a horizontal to a vertical position and back again ; and 
 through still more changes of direction; which is done by passing through endless 
 tapes and vertical rollers in rapid motion, which convey it round the printing cylinders, 
 each of which always touches the type at the same corresponding point, the surfaces 
 moving with a great velocity. The Times machines are also well described in Weale's 
 XowcZow, p. 76. 
 
 "No description," says Hansard (Ency. Brit., 8th edit.), " can give any adequate 
 idea of the scene presented by one of these machines in full work, the maze of wheels 
 and rollers, the intricate lines of swift-moving tapes, the flight of sheets, and the din of 
 machinery. The central drum moves at the rate of six feet per second, or one revolu- 
 tion in three seconds ; the impression cylinder makes five revolutions in the same time. 
 The layer-on delivers two sheets every five seconds, consequently fifteen sheets are 
 printed in that brief space. The Times employs two of these eight-cylinder machines, 
 each of which averages 12,000 impressions per hour ; and one nine-cylinder, which 
 prints 16,000." Also, Hoe's American machine, with ten horizontal cylinders, for 
 working 20,000 impressions in an hour. 
 
 The Times has nearly quadrupled its circulation since 1838. Its daily number in 
 1853 was between 42 and 43,000. The Paper and Supplement, 72 columns, is made 
 up of more than a million of pieces of type. In 1846, the profit on each paper was 
 stated to be three-eighths of a penny, out of which were to be defrayed all the expenses 
 of the journal, except paper and stamp. The annual amount of stamp duty was 60,000/. 
 Among the largest issues of the Times were, Oct. 29, 1844 (opening of the New Royal 
 Exchange), 50,000. Jan. 28, 1846, (Sir R. Peel's speech on the Corn Laws and the 
 Tariff), 52,000, when the usual number was between 27 and 28,000. March 1, 1848 
 (French Revolution), 48,000. April 11, 1848 (Chartist Meeting), 46,000. May 2, 1851 
 (opening of the Great Exhibition), 55,000. Sept. 15 and 16, 1852 (Death of the Duke 
 of Wellington), 2 days, each 53,000. Nov. 19, 1852 (Funeral of the Duke), 70,000. 
 The advertisements during June 1853 averaged 1500 each day ; and in one day in 
 June there were 2250 inserted ! then the greatest number that had ever appeared in 
 one paper. It has been stated, that in printing one of the above large issues were 
 used 7 tons of paper ; surface printed, 30 acres ; weight of type, 7 tons. 
 
 Among the literary collaborateurs of the Times, the names of Barnes, Sterling, and 
 Twiss are prominent. Mr. Justice Talfourd and Baron Alderson were once upon its 
 staff; as were also Mr. Gilbert a. Beckett, and Mr. Thackeray. The editorship was 
 offered to Southey, with a salary of 2000/. per annum, but was declined ; and a similar 
 offer was made to the poet Moore, with a like result. 
 
 The Morning Advertiser was established in 1795, as the organ of the interests and 
 charities of Licensed Victuallers. 
 
 The Daily News dates from 1846. 
 
 The Star, the first daily evening newspaper, established in 1788 by Peter Stuart, 
 was long conducted by Dr. Tilloch, editor of the Philosophical Magazine. 
 
 Johnson's Sunday Monitor, the first newspaper published on the Sabbath, appeared 
 in 1778. The oldest weekly newspaper is the Observer, established 1792. Bell's 
 Weekly Messenger dates from 1796.
 
 618 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The Illustrated London News, projected by Herbert Ingram, and commenced by 
 him May 14, 1842, enjoys the largest sale of the high-priced weekly papers. lu 1852 
 there were sold 230,000, double number (Funeral of the Duke of Wellington). The 
 issues have since far exceeded this number as at Christmas, double sheet. The sale 
 throughout the Crimean war approached 200,000 each week. 
 
 The City Press is entitled to commendable mention here for its special attention to 
 London antiquities, as well as its weekly chronicle of current events. 
 
 After the remission of the stamp duty, the number of daily newspapers considerably 
 increased, so that there are now published in the metropolis 25 daily papers. 
 
 On Monday, March 9, 1863 (Marriage of the Prince of Wales and the Princess Alexandra of Den- 
 mark), the circulation of the Timer was 135,000; of these three papers, at one penny, Daily Telegraph, 
 230,000; Morning Star and Standard between 80,000 and 100,000 each. The day of the Wedding was 
 Tuesday, the 10th, and on Wednesday, the llth, the circulation was sustained and increased. The- 
 Illustrated London News' orders were for 315,000, but only 200,000 could be executed. The value of the 
 Times' edition amounts to 16871. 10*. : the Daily Telegraph to 953J. 6*. 3d. ; the Illustrated London 
 Newn, at 10&, to 83331. 6. 9d. The daily circulation of the Daily Telegraph in 1866 was 133,704. 
 
 OLD BAILEY, 
 
 THE street extending from Ludgate-hill to Newgate -street ; "outside of Ludgate, 
 parallel with the walls as far as Newgate." Hence the name from the ballium, 
 or outer space, near Ludgate,* its relative position in regard to the ancient wall of the 
 City ; the remains of which might be traced in some massive stone-work in Seacoal- 
 lane, at the bottom of Breakneck-steps, west of the Old Bailey ; and opposite its 
 entrance from Ludgate-hill, in St. Martin's-court. (See p. 539.) Maitland, how- 
 ever, refers Old ISailey to Bail-hill ; an eminence whereon was situated the bail, or 
 bailiff's house, wherein he held a court for the trial of malefactors : and the place of 
 security where the Sheriff keeps the prisoners during the session is still named the 
 Bail-dock. Stow states the Chamberlain of London to have kept his court here in 
 the reign of Edward III. In Pennant's time, here stood Sydney House (then occupied 
 by a coachmaker), the mansion of the Sydneys till they removed to Leicester-fields 
 (see p. 511). The Old Bailey Sessions-house is described at pp. 506-507. 
 
 " By a sort of second-sight, the Surgeons' Theatre was built near this court of conviction and New- 
 gate, the concluding stage of the lives forfeited to the justice of their country, several years before the 
 fatal tree was removed from Tyburn to its present site. It is a handsome building, ornamented with 
 Ionic pilasters, and with a double flight of steps to the first floor. Beneath is a door for the admission, 
 of the bodies of murderers and other felons, who, noxious in their lives, make a sort of reparation to 
 their fellow-creatures by becoming useful after death." Pennant. 
 
 After the execution of Lord Ferrers, at Tyburn, in 1760, the body was conveyed 
 in his own landau and six to Surgeons' Hall, to undergo the remainder of the sentence. 
 A large incision having been made from the neck to the bottom of the breast, and 
 another across the throat, the lower part of the belly was laid open, and the bowels 
 were taken away. The body was afterwards publicly exposed to view in a first-floor 
 room ; and a print of the time shows the corpse " as it lay in the Surgeons' Hall." 
 Here sat the Court of Examiners, by whom Oliver Goldsmith was rejected 21st De- 
 cember, 1758 ; and in the books of the College of Surgeons, amidst a long list of can- 
 didates who passed, occur : " James Bernard, mate to an hospital. Oliver Goldsmith, 
 found not qualified for ditto." "A rumour of this rejection long existed; and on a 
 hint from Maton, the king's physician, Mr. Pryor succeeded in discovering it." 
 (Forster's Life and Adventures of Oliver Goldsmith, p. 140.) Surgeons' Hall was 
 taken down in 1809, and upon its site was built the New Sessions-house j whence 
 the prison of Newgate extends on the east side of the street, widened at the north end 
 by the removal of the houses of the Little Old Bailey. Here the place of execution was 
 changed from Tyburn in 1783, and the first culprit executed Dec. 9. The gallows was 
 built with three cross-beams, for as many rows of sufferers; and between February and 
 December, 1785, ninety-six persons suffered by " the new drop," substituted for the cart. 
 About 1786, here was the last execution followed by burning the body ; when a woman 
 was hung upon a low gibbet, and life being extinct, fagots were heaped around her and 
 over her head, fire was set to the pile, and the corpse burnt to ashes. On one occasion 
 the old mode of execution was renewed : a triangular gallows was set up in the road 
 opposite Green Arbour-court, and the cart was drawn from under the criminals' feet. 
 
 * The church of St. Peter in the Bailey, at Oxford, derives its appellation from having formerly 
 stood within the outer ballium of Oxford Castle.
 
 OLD JEWRY. 
 
 Memorable Executions in the Old Bailey. Mrs. Phepoe, murderess, Dec. 11, 1797. Governor Wall, 
 murder, Jan. 23, 1802. Holloway and Haggerty, murder, Feb. 22, 1807 (30 spectators trodden to death). 
 Bellingham, assassin of Mr. Perceval, May 18, 1812. Eliza Fenning, poisoning, July 26, 1815. Arthur 
 Thistlewood and lour others (C.ito-street gang:), murder and treason, May 1, 1820 (their bodies were 
 decapitated by a surgeon on the scaffold). Fauntleroy, the banker, forgery. Nov. 30, 1824. Joseph 
 Hunton (Quaker), forgery, Dec. 8, 1828. Bishop and William's, murder (burkers), Dec. 5, 1831. John 
 Pegsworth, murder, March 7, 1837. James Greenacre, murder, May 2, 1837. Courvoisier, murder of 
 Lord William Russell, July 6, 1840. Francis Miiller, murder in a railway carriage, 1864. Seven pirates 
 for murder on the high seas, Feb. 23, 1864. 
 
 It was formerly the usage to execute the criminal near the scene of his guilt. Those who were punished 
 capitally for the Riots of 1780 suffered in those parts of the town in which their crimes were committed ; 
 and in 1790 two incendiaries were hanged in Aldersgate-street, at the eastern end of Long-lane, opposite 
 the site of th<; house they had set fire to. Since that period there have been few executions in London, 
 except in front of Newgate. The last deviation from the regular course was in the case of the sailor 
 Cashman, who was hung, in 1817, in Skinner-street, opposite the shop of Mr. Beckwith, the gunsmith, 
 which he had plundered. 
 
 In Green Arbbur-court, No. 12, at the corner of Breakneck-steps, in Seacoal-lane. 
 leading from Farringdon-street, lodged Oliver Goldsmith from 1758 to 1760, when he 
 wrote for the Monthly Revieiu ; and the editor, Griffiths, became security for the suit of 
 clothes in which Goldsmith offered himself for examination at Surgeons' Hall. In this 
 miserable lodging he was writing his Polite Learning Enquiry, when Dr. Percy called 
 upon him, and the fellow-lodger's poor ragged girl came to borrow " a chamberpotful 
 of coals." The house was taken down thirty years since. 
 
 Peter Bales, the celebrated penman, in Queen Elizabeth's reign, kept a writing- 
 school, in 1590, at the upper end of the Old Bailey, and published here his Writing 
 Schoolmaster : in a writing trial he won a golden pen, value 201. ; and the " arms of 
 caligraphy, viz. azure, a pen or, were given to Bales as a prize." (Sir George Buck.) 
 Prynne's Histriomastix was printed " for Michael Sparke, and sold at the Blue Bible, 
 in Little Old Bayly, 1633." 
 
 William Camden, " the nourrice of antiquitie," was born in the Old Bailey, where 
 his father was a paiuter-stainer. In Ship-court, on the west side, was born William 
 Hogarth, the painter; and at the corner of Ship-court, No. 67, three doors from 
 Ludgate-hill, William Hone kept a little shop, where he published his noted Parodies 
 in 1817, for which he was three times tried and acquitted. Next door, at No. 68, 
 lived the infamous Jonathan Wild. 
 
 OLD JEWRY, 
 
 A STREET leading from the Poultry to Cateaton-street ; and "so called of Jews- 
 some time dwelling there and near adjoining" (Stow), first brought here by William 
 Duke of Normandy. They had here, at the north-west corner, a synagogue, suppressed 
 in 1291 ; it was next the church of the Friars of the Sack : here Robert Large kept his 
 mayoralty in 1439 ; Hugh Clopton in 1492; and in Stew's time it was the Windmill 
 Tavern, mentioned in Ben Jonson's Every Man in his Humour : its site is denoted by 
 Windmill- court. " In the reign of Henry VI., at the north end was one of the king's 
 palaces" (Ration) ; in the reign of Richard III. it was called the Prince's Wardrobe ; 
 and in 1548, Edward VI., it was sold to Sir Anthony Cope. On the west side, 
 about 40 yards from Cheapsidf, was built, in 1670 the Mercers' Chapel Grammar School, 
 removed in 1787, when Old Jewry was widened. 
 
 In a courtyard here vas the stately mansion built by Sir Robert Clayton for keeping- 
 his shrievalty in 1671-2. It was nobly placed upon a stone balustraded terrace, in a 
 courtyard, and was of fine red brick, richly ornamented. John Evelyn, who was a guest 
 at a great feast here, describes, in his Diary, Sept. 26, 1672, the mansion as " built 
 indeede for a greate magistrate at excessive cost. The cedar dining-room is painted 
 with the history of the Gyants' War, incomparably done by Mr. Streeter ; but the 
 figures are too near the eye." Mr. Bray, the editor of the Diary, adds (1818), " these 
 paintings have long since been removed to the seat of the Clayton family, at Marden 
 Park, near Godstone, in Surrey;" in the possession of the present baronet. In 1679-80 
 Charles II. and the Duke of York supped at the mansion in the Old Jewry, with Sir 
 Robert Clayton, then Lord Mayor. The balconies of the houses in the streets were 
 illuminated with flambeaux ; and the King and the Duke had a passage made for them 
 by the Trained Bands upon the guard from Cheapside. Sir Robert represented the
 
 620 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 metropolis nearly thirty years in Parliament, and was Father of the City at his decease. 
 His son was created a baronet in 1731-2. Sir James Thornhill painted the staircase of 
 the Old Jewry mansion with the story of Hercules and Omphale, besides a copy of the 
 " Rape of Deianira," after Guido. The house had several tenants before it was occupied 
 by Samuel Sharp, the celebrated surgeon. In 1806 it was opened as the temporary 
 home of the London Institution, with a library of 10,000 volumes. Here, in the rooms 
 he occupied as librarian of the Institution, died Professor Porson, on the night of 
 Sunday, Sept. 25, 1808, " with a deep groan, exactly as the clock struck twelve." Dr. 
 Adam Clarke has left a most interesting account of his visits to Porson here. The 
 Institution removed from the house in 1810, and it was next occupied as the Museum 
 of the London Missionary Society, and subsequently divided into offices. The Lord 
 Mayor's Court was latterly held here. The mansion was taken down in the autumn 
 of 1863. Although it had been built scarcely two centuries, this mansion was a very 
 handsome specimen of the palace of a merchant-prince, carrying us back to the sump- 
 tuous civic life of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, when our rich citizens lived 
 in splendour upon the sites whereon they had accumulated their well-earned wealth. 
 
 In Ben Jonson's Every 3fan. in his Humour, Master Stephen dwells at Hogsden, the dwellers of 
 which have a long suburb to pass before they reach London. " I am sent for this morning by a friend 
 in the Old Jewry to come to him : it is but crossing over the fields to Moorgate." In the Old Jewry 
 dwelt Cob the waterman, by the wall at the bottom of Coleman-street, "at the sign of the Water Tan- 
 kard, hard by the Green Lattice." C. Knight's London, vol. i. p. 368. 
 
 OLD STREET, 
 
 OR Eald-street, is part of a Roman military way, which anciently led from the eastern 
 to the western parts of the kingdom. Old-street extends from opposite the 
 north-eastern corner of Charter-house garden to St. Luke's Church (see p. 176) ; whence 
 to Shoreditch Church (see p. 173) the continuation is Old-street-road, where are St.. 
 Luke's (see p. 438) and the London Lying-in Hospitals. St. Leonard's, Shoreditch, 
 was anciently a village upon the Eald-street, at some distance north of London ; Hox- 
 ton, or Hocheston, was originally a small village, and had a market ; and the manor of 
 Finsbury, in the reign of Henry VIII., consisted chiefly of fields, orchards, and gar- 
 dens. Old-street was also famous for its nursery-grounds ; and here were several alms- 
 houses, mostly built when this suburb was open, healthful ground. Pest-house-lane 
 (now Bath-street) was named from a pest-house established here during the Great Plague 
 of 1665, and removed in 1737. In Brick-lane is one of the three earliest stations es- 
 tablished by the first Gas Light Company in the metropolis, incorporated in 1812. 
 
 Picthatch, a profligate resort, named in the plays of Shakspeare, Ben Jonson, and 
 Middleton, was supposed to have been in Turnmill-street, Clerkenwell, until Mr. Cun- 
 ningham identified Picthatch with " Pickaxe-yard," in Old-street, near the Charter- 
 house. (See Handbook, 2nd edit. p. 400.) 
 
 At the cornsr of Old-street-road, in ths City-road, are Vinegar-works, formerly the property of Mr. 
 James Calvert, who won the first 20,0001. prize ever drawn in an English lottery, and in a subsequent 
 lottery gained 50001.; yet he died in extreme poverty, Feb. 26, 1799. 
 
 OMNIBUS, THE, 
 
 A HACKNEY carriage for 12 or more passengers inside, is stated to have been tried 
 -* about the year 1800, with four horses and six wheels, but unsuccessfully. We re- 
 member a long-bodied East Grinstead coach in 1808 ; and a like conveyance between 
 Hemel Hempstead, Herts, and the metropolis. The Greenwich stages were mostly of 
 this build; and a character in the farce of Too Late for Dinner, produced in 1820, 
 talks of " the great green Greenwich coach," the omnibus of that period. Still, its 
 invention is claimed for M. Baudry, of Nantes. It has been extended to all parts 
 of the world : even in the sandy environs of Cairo you are whisked to your hotel in an 
 Oriental omnibus. 
 
 Mr. Shillibeer, in his evidence before the Board of Health, states that on July 4, 
 1829, he started the first pair of omnibuses in the metropolis from the Bank to the 
 Yorkshire Stingo, New-road; copied from Paris, where M. Lafitte, the banker, had
 
 OXFORD STREET. 621 
 
 previously established omnibuses in 1819. Each of Shiliibeer's vehicles carried 22 
 passengers inside, but only the driver outside ; and each omnibus was drawn by three 
 horses abreast ; the fare was 1*. for the whole journey, and fid. for half the distance ; 
 and for some time the passengers were provided with periodicals to read on the journey. 
 Shiliibeer's first " conductors " were the two sons of British naval officers, who were 
 succeeded by young men in velvet liveries. The first omnibuses were called 
 " Shillibeers," and the name is common to this day in New York. Omnibuses 
 ruined the elder branch of the Bourbons in 1830 : the accidental upset of an 
 omnibus suggested the first idea of a barricade and thus changed the whole science 
 of revolutions. Nevertheless, a barricade of vehicles was one of the strategies em- 
 ployed three centuries before, in England. There are numerous private speculators in 
 omnibuses, who, no doubt, convey a large amount of passengers ; but the London 
 General Omnibus Company alone earns from 10,OOOZ. to 15.000Z. a week, and must 
 employ several thousand servants. In Exhibition weeks, the receipts have reached 
 17,000 (HACKNEY-COACHES AND CABS, see pp. 392-393.) 
 
 OXFORD-STREET, 
 
 /^\RIGINALLY Tylurn-road, and next Oxford-road (the highway to Oxford), ex- 
 \J tends from the site of the village pound of St. Giles's (where High-street and 
 Tottenham -court-road meet), westward to Hyde Park Corner, 1^ mile in length, con- 
 taining upwards of 400 houses. Hatton, in 1708, described it " between St. Giles's 
 Pound east, and the lane leading to the gallows west." It follows the ancient military 
 road (Via Trinovantica, Stukeley), which crossed the Watling-street at Hyde Park 
 Corner, and was continued thence to Old-street (Eald-street), north of London. During 
 the Civil War, in 1643, a redoubt was erected near St. Giles's Pound, and a large fort 
 with half bulwarks across the road opposite Wardour-street. In a map of 1707, on the 
 south side, King-street, Golden-square, is perfect to Oxford-road, between which and 
 Berwick-street are fields ; hence to St. Giles's is covered with buildings, but westward 
 not a house is seen ; the north side contains a few scattered buildings, but no semblance 
 of streets west of Tottenham-court-road. A plan of 1708 shows, at the south end of 
 Mill-hill Field, the Lord Mayor's Banqueting-house, at the north-east corner of the 
 bridge across Tyburn brook, over which is built the west side of Stratford-place. In 
 the above plan is also shown the Adam and Eve, a detached roadside public-house in 
 the " Dung-field," near the present Adam-and-Eve-court, almost opposite Poland- 
 street ; and in an adjoining field is represented the boarded house of Figg, the prize- 
 fighter. " The row of houses on the north side of Tyburn-road was completed in 1729, 
 and it was then called Oxford-street" (Lysons's Environs) ; a stone upon a house on the 
 north side is inscribed, " Rathbone-place, Oxford-street, 1718 :" it was built by Captain 
 Eathbone. In this year were commenced Hanover-square, and " round about, so many 
 other edifices, that a whole magnificent city seems to be risen out of the ground. On 
 the opposite side of the way, towards Marylebone, is marked out a square, and many 
 streets to form avenues to it." ( Weekly Medley, 1718.) Vere-street Chapel and Oxford 
 Market were built about 1724 ; five years later were begun most of the streets leading 
 to Cavendish-square. 
 
 A map of 1742 shows the little church of St. Marylebone, in the fields, with two ziezag ways leading 1 
 to it : one near Vere-street, then the western limit of the new buildings ; and the. second from Totten- 
 ham-court-road. Rows of houses, with their backs to the fields, extend from St. Giles's Pound to 
 Oxford Market ; but Tottenham-court-road has only one cluster on the west side, and the spring-water 
 house. Thus, Oxford-street, from Oxford Market to Vere-street, south and west, Marylebone-street, 
 north, and the site of Great Titchfield-street east, form the limit of the new buildings : the zigzag way 
 from Vere-street (now Marylebone-lane) leading from the high-road to the village. 
 
 Pennant (born in 1726) remembered Oxford-street " a deep hollow road, and full of 
 sloughs ; with here and there a ragged house, the lurking-place of cut-throats :" inso- 
 much that he " never was taken that way by night," in a hackney-coach, to his ancle's 
 in George-street, but he " went in dread the whole way." 
 
 Yet this main arterial thoroughfare was called Ozford-street in the reign of 
 Charles II., as attested in the following passage from the Statute of 1678, enacting the 
 boundaries of the parish of St. Anne, then just taken out of St. Martin's :
 
 622 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The houses beginning at the sign of the Crooked Billet, near St. Giles's Pound, and bounded by the 
 way leading from the said sign to the end of Cock-lane near Long-acre, with the south side of the lane 
 and all the ground called the Military-ground, and all the houses and ground leading thence to Cran- 
 bourne-street and Little Leicester-street, allot Bear-street, including Leicester-house and garden, as it 
 is abutting upon Leicester-square, with all the houses on the west side of the square from Leicester- 
 garden wall to the Sun Tavern, &c., including the wall abutting on the highway leading from Piccadilly 
 to the west side of the Military-ground, and abutting on the highway leading to the field called Kemp's- 
 field, including all the fields to the sign of the Slue Anchor, being the corner house at the south end of 
 the east side of Soho-street, abutting upon Kemp' s-fields, with all the easi side of Soho-street to the 
 sign of the Red Cow, being the corner house at the north end of Soho-street, abutting upon the King's 
 highway, or Great-road (that is, what is now called Oxford-street), with all the house? and grounds 
 abutting on and upon the said road leading from the sigu of the Red Cote to the Crooked Biliet ; and 
 all the houses, &c., included in these boundaries were erected into the new parish of St. Anne. 
 
 Cumberland-place, begun about 1774, was named from the hero of Culloden, of 
 whom there is a portrait-sign at a public-house in Great Cumberland-street. No. 58, 
 Cuniberland-street has an elegant portico of terra-cotta, designed by A. IT. Morant, 
 for Lord Strangford. At the western extremity of Oxford-street, in the first house in 
 Edgware-road, immediately opposite to Tyburn turnpike, lived for many years the 
 Corsican General Paoli, who was godfather to the Emperor Napoleon. (Notes and 
 Queries.) Stratford-place was built 1787-90, upon the site of Conduit-Mead. At 
 the north end is Aldborough House (erected for Edward Stratford, Earl of Aldborough), 
 with a handsomeTomc^tone front and a Doric colonnade. Here, until 1805, stood a 
 naval trophied Corinthian column with a statue of George III., set up in 1797 by 
 Lieut.-Gen. Strode. No. 315, Oxford-street is the faQade of the Laboratories of the 
 COLLEGE OF CHEMISTET (see p. 273). The view through the gate of Hanover- 
 square, the massive church and the lofty and handsome houses, presents a very fine 
 >' architectural coup-d'oeil. 
 
 Portland-place was built by the architects Adam, about 1778 : it is 126 feet wide, 
 and in 1817 was terminated at the north end by an open railing looking over the 
 fields towards the New-road; when "the ample width of the foot-pavement, the purity 
 of the air, and the prospect of the rich and elevated villages of Hampstead and High- 
 gate, rendered Portland-place a most agreeable summer promenade." (Hughson's 
 London.) At No. 43, lived Sir Felix Booth, Bart., from whom Sir John Ross named 
 Boothia Felix ; Lord Chief-Justice Dcnman at No. 38. In Park-crescent long resided 
 the Count de Survilliers (Joseph Bonaparte); and in the garden, facing Portland- 
 place, is a well-modelled bronze statue (height 7 feet 2 inches), by Gahagan, of the 
 Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria. 
 
 The Crystal Palace in Hyde Park was nearly the length of Portland-place. "I walked out one 
 evening," says Sir Charles Fox, "and there setting out the 1848 feet upon the pavement, found it the 
 same length within a few yards; and then considered that the Great Exhibition Building would be 
 three times the width of that fine street, and the nave as high as the houses on either side." 
 
 Newman-street and Berners-sireet, built between 1750 and 1770, were from the 
 first inhabited by artists of celebrity. In the former lived Banks and Bacon, the 
 sculptors ; and West and Stothard, the painters : in the latter, Sir William Chambers, 
 the architect ; and Fuseli and Opie, the painters. Facing is the Middlesex Hospital, 
 described at p. 439. The Pantheon, on the south side of Oxford-street, was origi- 
 nally built by James Wyatt, in 1768-71 ; was burnt down in 1792, but was rebuilt ; 
 taken down in 1812, and again reconstructed. (See PANTHEON.) Nearly opposite is 
 the Princess's Theatre, No. 73, formerly the Queen's Bazaar, opened in 1840. (See 
 THEATRES.) Wardour-street, built 1686, and named from Lord Arundel of Wardour, 
 is noted for its curiosity-shops. (See CASTING, pp. 78-81.) Hamcay-street bears a 
 stone dated 1721, and was originally a zigzag lane to Tottenham-court-road : it was 
 called Hanway-yard to our time, and is noted for its china-dealers and curiosity- 
 shops, as it was in the reign of hoops, high-heeled shoes, and stiff brocade. No. 
 54, corner of Berners-street, has a Renaissance or Elizabethan shop-front and 
 mezzanine floor ; a picturesque composition of pedestals, consoles, and semi-caryatid 
 figures. No. 76 has a Byzantine faade. No. 86 has a front of studied design. At 
 No. 15 was exhibited, in 1830-32, a large painted window of the Tournament of the 
 Field of Cloth-of-Gold, by Wilmshurst ; destroyed by fire in 1832. At the east end of 
 Oxford-street, in 1838, were laid experimental specimens of the various roadway Wood 
 Pavements. 
 
 Kollckens, the sculptor, one day, in a walk with J. T. Smith, stopped at the corner of Kathbone-
 
 *e. For once his hero s a liln 
 aired in outline by the intrusion of 
 ^ But only a little For the 
 ^t P^H t'he book holds the reader 
 Created from first to last. And 
 
 ''table portraits he hi drawn 
 
 VGTON. 
 
 NEW NOVELS. 
 
 Ovington's Bank." By Stanley 
 
 (London: John Murray.) 7s. 6d.' 
 
 623 
 
 there be a better introchc- 
 to modern English 'history ** 
 
 bae depicted 
 
 rloo, the Reform Bill, the y ree 
 c-ri S16 an d now the railway 
 f JLach ^ f *> 
 
 of them i,s a 
 e of fcroad-scale action 
 
 tt-6 
 
 master- 
 brilliant 
 <>;_ mass movements, 
 
 r^^^-^tT, 
 
 ny o^ their significance. "Oviu- 
 ' ^is certainly_not the least 
 
 iis mother often took him to the top of that street 
 which then stood on the site of the chapel in Char- 
 Vy person at a hatch belonging to the miller, for 
 Id me (continues Smith), that his mother took him 
 veen Oxford-road and Grosvenor-square, the north 
 he brewhouse between Rathbone-place and the end 
 rteen large and fine walnut-trees standing on the 
 vulgarly called Hanover-yard, afterwards Hanway- 
 n, beyond the Star Brewery. Nollekens and hit 
 
 several houses of lofty and ornamental design 
 which reminded one of Oxford-road. Here 
 d by the Princess Charlotte and her husband, 
 
 houses from 441 to 552, and occupying part 
 ras opened in 1847 : the house-fronts are of 
 jouis XIV. character, including a glass-roofed 
 
 \INGTON, -*. 
 
 .nd tun, the town of the Fadings (Kemble's 
 last century, a pleasant little rural village, 
 , upon the Harrow-road. Paddington is not 
 ^charters professedly granting lands here by 
 discredited as forgeries. The district would 
 ,, after the Norman Conquest, from the vast 
 ,he cattle of the villagers, and the fruits of 
 lain between the two Roman roads (now 
 dnd the West bourn, or brook, the ancient 
 aent (31 Hen. II.), Richard and William of 
 t'to the Abbot and Convent of Westminster ; 
 _;ury, the whole of the temporalities of Pad- 
 
 mm ^^ l mm ^^ finals, valued at SI. 16s. 4d.), were devoted to 
 
 charity. Tanner speaks of Paddington as a parish, temp. Richard II. ; and by the 
 Valor Ecclesiasticus of Henry VIII., the rectory yielded, like the manor, a separate 
 revenue to the Abbey. Upon the dissolution of the Bishopric of Westminster, the 
 manor and rectory were given by Edward VI. to Ridley, Bishop of London, and his 
 successors for ever ; they were then let at 41/. 6s. 8d., besides 20s. for the farm of 
 " Paddington Wood," 30 acres. 
 
 The population of Paddington, by the Subsidy Roll of Henry VIII. scarcely exceeded 
 100; in Charles II.'s reign it was about 300; in 1811, the population was 4609 ; from 
 1831 to 1841, it increased 1000 per annum ; from 1841 to 1851, above 2000 annually ; 
 and in 1861, it had 75,807. Thus, from the forest village has risen a large town, 
 and one of the three parishes forming the Parliamentary borough of Marylebone. 
 
 "A city of palaces has sprung up within twenty years. A road of iron, with steeds of steam, brings 
 into the centre of this city, and takes from it in one year, a greater number of living beings than could 
 be found in all England a few years ago ; while the whole of London can be traversed in half the time 
 it took to reach Holborn Bars at the beginning of this century, when the road was in the hands of Mr. 
 Miles, his pair-horse coach, and his redoubtable Boy,"* long the only appointed agents of communica- 
 tion between Paddington and the City. The fares were 2s. and 3s. ; the journey took more than three 
 hours ; and to beguile the time at resting places, " Miles' s Boy " told tales and played upon the fiddle. 
 A portion of Paddington is called Tyburnia; but the distinction has not been so readily adopted as in 
 the case of Belgravia. 
 
 In the middle of the last century, nearly the whole of Paddington had become 
 grazing-land, upwards of 1100 acres ; and the occupiers of the Bishop's Estate kept 
 here hundreds of cows. At the beginning of the last century, next to the rurality of 
 Paddington, the gallows and the gibbet were its principal attractions. About 1790 
 were built nearly 100 small wooden cottages, tenanted by a colony of 600 journeyman 
 artificers ; but these dwellings have given way to Connaught-terrace. 
 
 tories. 
 
 Paddington, Past and Present, by William Kobins, 18S3 ; an able contribution to our local his-
 
 Derby House Activity. 
 
 * Politics can bring II'- 
 
 CUEIOSITIES \ Passing that state 
 
 stefiti spoi**- *- i 
 
 de sac, Stratford-pi* tay. 
 
 foot, Viijrh stOOU fit 
 
 is abutting upon Leicester-square, with all the houses -, 
 
 garden wall to the Sun Tavern, &c., including the wal; HiVCl 
 
 to the i west side of the Military-ground, and abutting c ford-Street end calll 
 
 field, including all the fields to the sign of the Blue Ai, 
 
 the east side of Soho-street, abutting upou Kemp' s-fiel6 come in a 
 
 . Lilt: iiuunvB, CCL.J muiuucu. in tiicoo uuuiiuaiica rvciu CAI ( ___ 
 
 Cumberland-place, begun about 1774, was^ terf 
 whom there is a portrait-sign at a public-housel' evidence 
 Cumberland-street has an elegant portico of land a lot of gener 
 for Lord Strangford. At the western extremit .-transacted there. 
 
 //. the north end is Aldborough House (erected for ford House, f 
 
 
 
 , - 
 
 itll Stratford-place, 
 v A tli ft second Earl of Al< 
 
 naval trophied Corinthian column with a staj ,, tf - rd the second 
 Lieut.-Gen. Strode. No. 315, Oxford-street \\ " desisna by Robe 
 
 COLLEGE OF CHEMISTRY (see p. 273). Thel borougn, an 
 square, the massive church and the lofty and 1 Adam. 
 ..architectural coup-d'oeil. \ Prince Esterha-zy, a 
 
 Portland-place was built by the architects t'nRnished persons have . 
 
 Tin to 1^10 it was occupied 1 
 s^ncc ^ P x<7*v A* * 
 
 Lord' Colebrooke. Lcrd Derby 1 
 enlarged it considerably-big 
 and spoiled to some 
 
 and in 1817 was terminated at the north enc 
 fields towards the New-road ; when " the ampl 
 of the air, and the prospect of the rich and elev 
 gate, rendered Portland-place a most agreeal 
 London.) At No. 43, lived Sir Felix Booth, B 
 Boothia Felix ; Lord Chief-Justice Denman at 
 the Count de Survilliers (Joseph Bonaparte); 
 place, is a well-modelled bronze statue (height' 
 Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria. 
 
 Adamio character. 
 7'letnr2nncTies)7by Gahagan, of the 
 
 The Crystal Palace in Hyde Park was nearly the length of Portland-place. "I walked out one 
 evening," says Sir Charles Fox, " and there setting out the 1848 feet upon the pavement, found it the 
 same length within a few yards ; and then considered that the Great Exhibition Building would be 
 three times the width of that fine street, and the nave as high as the houses on either side." 
 
 Newman-street and Berners-slreet, built between 1750 and 1770, were from the 
 first inhabited by artists of celebrity. In the former lived Banks and Bacon, the 
 sculptors ; and West and Stothard, the painters : in the latter, Sir William Chambers, 
 the architect ; and Fuseli and Opie, the painters. Facing is the Middlesex Hospital, 
 described at p. 439. The Pantheon, on the south side of Oxford-street, was origi- 
 nally built by James Wyatt, in 1768-71 ; was burnt down in 1792, but was rebuilt ; 
 taken down in 1812, and again reconstructed. (See PANTHEON.) Nearly opposite is 
 the Princess's Theatre, No. 73, formerly the Queen's Bazaar, opened in 1840. (See 
 THEATRES.) Wardour- street, built 1686, and named from Lord Arundel of Wardour, 
 is noted for its curiosity-shops. (See CASTING, pp. 78-81.) Hamcay-street bears a 
 stone dated 1721, and was originally a zigzag lane to Tottenham- court-road : it was 
 called Hanway-yard to our time, and is noted for its china-dealers and curiosity- 
 shops, as it was in the reign of hoops, high-heeled shoes, and stiff brocade. No. 
 54, corner of Berners-street, has a Renaissance or Elizabethan shop-front and 
 mezzanine floor ; a picturesque composition of pedestals, consoles, and semi-caryatid 
 figures. No. 76 has a Byzantine faade. No. 86 has a front of studied design. At 
 No. 15 was exhibited, in 1830-32, a large painted window of the Tournament of the 
 Field of Cloth-of-Gold, by Wilmshurst ; destroyed by fire in 1832. At the east end of 
 Oxford-street, in 1838, were laid experimental specimens of the various roadway Wood 
 Pavements. 
 
 Kollckens, the sculptor, one day, in a walk with J. T. Smith, stopped at the corner of Eathbone-
 
 PADDINGTON. 623 
 
 place, and observed that when he was a little boy, his mother often took him to the top of that street 
 to walk by the side of a loner pond, near a windmill, which then stood on the site of the chapel in Char- 
 lotte-street ; and that a halfpenny was paid by every person at a hatch belonging to the miller, for 
 the privilege of walking in his grounds. He also told me (continues Smith), that his mother took him 
 through another halfpenny hatch in the fields, between Oxford-road and Grosvenor-square, the north 
 side of which was then building. When we got to the brewhouse between Rathbone-place and the end 
 of Tottenham-court-road, he said he recollected thirteen large and fine walnut-trees standing on the 
 north side of the highway, between what was then vulsarly called Hanover-yard, afterwards Hanway- 
 yard, and now Hanway-street, and the Cattle inn, beyond the Star Brewery. Nolle/tens and hi* 
 limes, i. 37. 
 
 Towards the west end of Oxford-street several houses of lofty and ornamental design 
 have replaced the incongruous dwellings which reminded one of Oxford-road. Here 
 was Camelford House, sometime inhabited by the Princess Charlotte and her husband, 
 Prince Leopold. 
 
 NEW OXFOBD-STHEET, extending the houses from 441 to 552, and occupying part 
 of the site of St. Giles's " Rookery," was opened in 1847 : the house-fronts are of 
 Ionic, Corinthian, domestic Tudor, and Louis XIV. character, including a glass-roofed 
 Arcade of shops. 
 
 PADDINGTON, 
 
 NAMED from the Saxon Pcedingas and tun, the town of the Pzodings (Kemble's 
 Saxons in England}, was, in the last century, a pleasant little rural village, 
 scarcely a mile north of Tyburn turnpike, upon the Harrow-road. Paddington is not 
 mentioned in Domesday Book ; and the charters professedly granting lands here by 
 Edgar to the monks of Westminster are discredited as forgeries. The district would 
 rather appear to have been cleared, soon after the Norman Conquest, from the vast 
 forest of Middlesex (with pasture for the cattle of the villagers, and the fruits of 
 the wood for their hogs), and to have lain between the two Eoman roads (now 
 the Edgware and Uxbridge roads) and the West bourn, or brook, the ancient 
 Tybourn. In the first authentic document (31 Hen. II.), Richard and William of 
 Paddington transfer their " tenement " to the Abbot and Convent of Westminster ; 
 and from the close of the thirteenth century, the whole of the temporalities of Pad- 
 dington (rent of land, and young of animals, valued at SI. 16s. 4d.), were devoted to 
 charity. Tanner speaks of Paddington as a parish, temp. Richard II. ; and by the 
 Valor Ecclesiasticus of Henry VIII., the rectory yielded, like the manor, a separate 
 revenue to the Abbey. Upon the dissolution of the Bishopric of Westminster, the 
 manor and rectory were given by Edward VI. to Ridley, Bishop of London, and Lis 
 successors for ever ; they were then let at 411. 6s. Sd., besides 20s. for the farm of 
 " Paddington Wood," 30 acres. 
 
 The population of Paddington, by the Subsidy Roll of Henry VIII. scarcely exceeded 
 1 00 ; in Charles II.'s reign it was about 300 ; in 1811, the population was 4609 ; from 
 1831 to 1841, it increased 1000 per annum ; from 1841 to 1851, above 2000 annually ; 
 and in 1861, it had 75,807. Thus, from the forest village has risen a large town, 
 and one of the three parishes forming the Parliamentary borough of Marylebone. 
 
 " A city of palaces has sprung up within twenty years. A road of iron, with steeds of steam, brings 
 into the centre of this city, and takes from it in one year, a greater number of living beings than could 
 be found in all England a few years ago ; while the whole or London can be traversed in half the time 
 it took to reach Holborn Bars at the beginning of this century, when the road was in the hands of Mr. 
 Miles, his pair-horse coach, and his redoubtable Boy,"* long the only appointed agents of communica- 
 tion between Paddington and the City. The fares were 2s. and 3s. ; the journey took more than three 
 hours; and to beguile the_ time at resting places, " Miles' s Boy" told tales and played upon the fiddle. 
 A portion of Paddington is called Tyburnia; but the distinction has not been so readily adopted as in 
 the case of Belgravia. 
 
 In the middle of the last century, nearly the whole of Paddington had become 
 grazing-land, upwards of 1100 acres ; and the occupiers of the Bishop's Estate kept 
 here hundreds of cows. At the beginning of the last century, next to the rurality of 
 Paddington, the gallows and the gibbet were its principal attractions. About 1790 
 were built nearly 100 small wooden cottages, tenanted by a colony of 600 journeyman 
 artificers j but these dwellings have given way to Connaught-terrace. 
 
 * Paddington, Past and Present, by William Robing, 1853 ; an able contribution to our local his- 
 tories.
 
 624 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Paddington consists chiefly of two hills, Maida-hill and Craven-hill ; the north- 
 eastern slope of Notting-hill ; and a valley through which runs the Tybourn, a favou- 
 rite resort of anglers early in the present century, but now a covered sewer. From 
 this brook, the newly -built district, mostly of palatial mansions, is named Ti/burnia. 
 
 Paddington Green, now inclosed and iron-bound, was the green of the villagers, 
 shown in all its rural beauty in prints of 1750 and 1783. Upon a portion of it were 
 built the Almshouses, in 1714; their neat little flower-gardens have disappeared. South 
 of the green is the new Vestry -hall. At Dudley Grove was modelled and cast, by 
 Matthew Cotes Wyatt, the colossal bronze statue of the Duke of Wellington, now 
 upon the Green Park Arch : it is thirty feet high, and was conveyed from the foundry, 
 upon a car, drawn by 29 horses, Sept. 29, 1846, to Hyde Park Corner. 
 
 Westbourne Green has been cut up by the Great Western Railway; and West- 
 bourne-place, built by Ware, with the materials of old Chesterfield House, May Fair, 
 has disappeared. Close by is the terminus of the Great Western Railway, with a 
 magnificent Hotel, designed in the Louis Quatorze taste, by P. Hardwick, R.A. : the 
 allegorical sculpture of the pediment is by Thomas : the rooms exceed 130. 
 
 At Craven Hill was the Pest-house Field, exchanged for the ground in Carnaby- 
 street, given by Lord Craven as a burial-place, if London should ever be again visited 
 by the Plague : but the field is now the site of a handsome square of houses named 
 Craven Gardens. Bayswater is a hamlet of Paddington. Knotting, or Notting Sill 
 seems but to have -been a corruption of Nutting ; the wood on and around the hill of 
 that name having for centuries been appropriately so named. Kensell, or Kensale, is 
 "the Green-lane" and Kingsfelde Green in a Harleian MS. of Mary's reign. (See 
 p. 81 .) Maida Hill and Maida Vale were named from the famous battle of Maida, 
 in Calabria, fought between the French and British, in 1806. 
 
 The Grand Junction Waterworks were established in 1812; and on Camden-hill is a 
 storing reservoir containing 6,000,000 gallons. At Paddington the basin of the Grand, 
 Junction Canal joins the Regent's Canal, which passes under Maida-hill by a tunnel 
 370 yards long. On the hanks of the canal, the immense heaps of dust and ashes, 
 once towering above the house-tops, are said to have been worth fabulous thousands. 
 
 " The Bishop's Estate" (Bishop's-road, Blomfield-terrace, &c.) produces 30.000/. a 
 year to the Bishop of London and the lay lessees. Among the parochial Charities, 
 the anniversary festival of an Abbot of Westminster is thought to explain " the Bread 
 and Cheese Lands ;" and until 1838, in accordance with a bequest, bread and cheese 
 were thrown from the steeple of St. Mary's Church, to be scrambled for in the church- 
 yard. (See LOCK HOSPITAL, p. 438; ST. MAEY'S, p. 439.) 
 
 Oxfurd and Cambridge Squares and Terraces will long keep in grateful memory the 
 munificence of the Lady Margaret, Countess of Richmond, to the Universities of Oxford 
 and Cambridge. 
 
 Paddington possessed a church before the district was assigned to the monks of West- 
 minster, in 1222. An "old and ruinous church" was taken down about 1678, and was 
 thought, from its painted window, to have been dedicated to St. Katharine. Next, St. 
 James's Church was built by the Sheldons, temp. Charles I. : here Hogarth was married 
 to Sir James Thornhill's daughter, in 1729. This church was taken down, and St. 
 Mary's built upon the Green, 1788-91, " finely embosomed in venerable elms :" near 
 it were the village stocks, and in the churchyard were an ancient yew-tree and a 
 double-leaved elder. Here is the tombstone of John Hubbard, who died in 1665, " aged 
 111 years." Near the grave of Mrs. Siddons lies Haydon, the ill-fated painter, who 
 devoted " forty-two years to the improvement of the taste of the English people in high 
 art :" he lived many years at 1, Burwood-place, Edgware-road ; and here, June 22, 
 1846, with his own hand, he terminated the fitful fever of his existence. St. Mary's 
 Church is described at p. 187. Next was built Bayswater Chapel, by Mr. Orme, the 
 printseller, in 1818 ; Connaught Chapel, in 1826, now St. John's ; and at the western 
 extremity of the Grand Junction-road, St. James's, which in 1845 became the parish 
 church. In 1844-6 was built Holy Trinity Church, Bishop's-road (see p. 208) : cost 
 18.458Z., towards which the Rev. Mr. Miles gave 4000J. In 1847 was erected, in 
 Cambridge-place, All Saints Church, upon a portion of the site of the old Grand 
 Junction Waterworks' reservoir, at the end of Star-street. St. John's, in Southwick-
 
 PAINTED CHAMBER, THE. 625 
 
 crescent, has a fine stained window. The erection of Dissenters' places of worship was 
 long restricted in Paddington by the Bishops of London ; but there are several chapels, 
 including one for the Canal boatmen, constructed out of a stable and coach-house. At 
 the western extremity of the parish is a large Roman Catholic church. 
 
 Padd ; .ngton has long- been noted for its old public-houses. The White Lion, Edgware-road, dates 
 152i, the year when hops were first imported. At the Red Lion, near the Harrow-road, tradition says, 
 Shakspeare acted ; and another Red Lion, formerly near the Harrow-road bridge over the bourn, is de- 
 scribed in an inquisition of Edward VI. In this road is also an ancient Pack-horse ; and the Wheat- 
 theaf, Edgware-road, was a favourite resort of Ben Jonson. (See Robins's Paddington.) 
 
 Paddington and Marylebone appear to have been favoured by religious enthusiasts. 
 At Xo. 26, Manchester-street, died, in 1814, the notorious Joanna Southcott, after having 
 imposed upon six medical men with the absurd story of her being about to give birth 
 to the young " Shiloh." Richard Brothers, the self-styled "Nephew of God," lodged 
 at No. 58, Paddington-street, and died in Upper Baker-street, in 1824. Spence, the 
 disciple of Emanuel Swedenborg, lived in Great Marylebone-street : he was known as 
 " Dr. Spence," when he was the only surgeon in the milage of Marylebone. Paddington, 
 with all its antique fame, does not make us forget two odd things that have been said 
 of the district : 
 
 " Pitt is to Aldington, 
 As London is to Paddington." Canning. 
 
 And Lord Byron remarks : " Here would be nothing to make the Canal of Venice more 
 poetical than that of Paddington, were it not for its artificial adjuncts." 
 
 PAINTED CHAMBER, THE, 
 
 T) EPRESENTED to have been the bed-chamber and death-place of Edward the Con- 
 J-u fessor, in the old Palace at Westminster, existed in its foundation-walls until the 
 Great Fire in 1834. It was also called St. Edward's Chamber; and assumed its second 
 name after it had been painted by order of Henry III. In the ceremonial of the mar- 
 riage of Richard Duke of York, in 1477, the Painted Chamber is called St. Edward's 
 Chamber ; and Sir Edward Coke, in his Fourth Institute, states that the causes of 
 Parliament were in ancient time shown in La Chambre Depeint, or St. Edward's 
 Chamber. This interesting historical apartment had two floors, one tessellated, and 
 the other boarded : it was 80 feet 6 in. in length, 26 feet wide, and its height from 
 the upper floor was 31 feet. The ceiling, temp. Henry III., was dight with gilded and 
 painted tracery, including small wainscot paterae, variously ornamented. It was hung 
 with tapestries, chiefly representing the Siege of Troy, probably put up temp. Charles 
 II. Sandford, in his Coronation of James II., mentions these tapestries as " Five 
 pieces of the Siege of Troy, and one piece of Gardens and Fountains." In 1800, these 
 hangings and the wainscoting were removed,* when the walls and window-jambs were 
 found covered with paintings of the battles of Maccabees ; the Seven Brethren ; St. 
 John, habited as a pilgrim, presenting a ring to King Edward the Confessor ; the 
 canonization of King Edward, with seraphim, &c. ; and black-letter Scripture texts. 
 The paintings are noticed in the MS. Itinerary of Simon Simeon and Hugo the Illu- 
 minator (Franciscan friars), in 1322 ; who name " that well-known chamber, on whose 
 walls all the histories of the wars of the whole Bible are painted beyond description :" 
 and an Exchequer Roll, 20 Edw. I. anno 1292, headed, "p'ma op'ac'o picture," or first 
 work of Painting, contains an account of the disbursements of Master Walter, the 
 painter, for the emendation of the pictures in the King's Great Chamber, as the 
 Painted Chamber was then called.f Specimens of these paintings are given by J. T. 
 Smith in his Antiquities of Westminster ; and in the Vetusta Monumenta, vol. vi. ; and 
 in 1835, drawings of the pictures were exhibited to the Society of Antiquaries. 
 
 In the Painted Chamber, Parliaments were opened, before the Lords sat in the 
 Court of Requests. Here Conferences of both Houses were held ; here sat in private 
 
 * About the year 1920, the tapestry was sold to Mr. Charles Yamold, of Great St. Helen's, for 10Z. 
 
 t There are also entries in the Close Rolls, 12 Hen. HI. (1228), for painting the Great Exchequer 
 Chamber; and 1236, for the King's Great Chamber ; proving that oil-painting was practised in England 
 nearly two centuries before its presumed discovery by John van Eyck, in 1410. 
 
 a a
 
 626 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the High Court of Justice for bringing Charles I. to trial ; and here the death-warrant 
 of the unhappy King was signed by the Regicides. The body of Lord Chatham lay in 
 State here. After the Fire of 1834, the walls of the Chamber were roofed, and the in- 
 terior was fitted up as a temporary House of Lords. The building was taken down 
 in 1852, when the brick and stone work of the north side, and the ends of the 
 Chamber, including several Gothic stone window-cases, were sold for 50Z. 
 
 PAINTED GLASS. 
 npHE finest specimens will be described under WINDOWS, PAINTED. 
 
 PALACES, SOYAL. 
 
 THE three royal metropolitan palaces are, Buckingham Palace, the residence of the 
 Sovereign and the Court ; St. James's Palace, used exclusively for State purposes ; 
 and Kensington Palace, the birthplace of Her Majesty, 1819 ; and where she held her 
 First Council, 1837. 
 
 Hatton (in 1708) says : " Of Courts of our Kings and Queens there were heretofore many in London 
 and Westminster : as the Tower of London, where some believe Julius Ca?sar lodged, and William the 
 Conqueror; in the Old Jewry, where Henry VI.; Saynard's Castle, where Henry VII.; Erideicell, 
 where King John and Henry VIII. ; Tower Moyal, where Richard II. and King Stephen ; Wardrobe, 
 in Great Carter-lane, where Richard III. ; also at Somerset House, kept by Queen Elizabeth ; and at 
 Westminster, near the Hall, where Edward the Confessor and several other kings kept their Courts. 
 But of later times, the place for the Court, when in town, was mostly Whitehall j a very pleasant and 
 commodious situation, looking into St. James's Park, the canal, &c. west, and the noble river of Thames 
 east : Privy Gardens, with fountains, statues, &c., and an open prospect to the statue at Charing Cross, 
 north. This palace being, in January, 1697, demolished by fire, except the Banqueting House (built by 
 Inigo Jones, temp. James I.), there has since been no reception for the Court in town but St. James's 
 Palace, which is pleasantly situated by the Park ; and Whitehall will doubtless be rebuilt in a short 
 time, being designed one of the most famous palaces in Christendom. 
 
 " Her Majesty has also these noble palaces for the Court to reside in at pleasure : Kensington House 
 (so near, that it may be said to be in town), Campden House, Windsor Castle, Hampton Court, Win- 
 chester House; all which palaces, for pleasant situation, nobleness of building, delightful gardens and 
 walks, externally ; and for commodious, magnificent rooms, rich furniture, and curious painting, inter- 
 nally, cannot be matched in number aad quality by any one prince on earth." 
 
 BtiCEiNaHAM PALACE, the town residence of the Sovereign, on the west side of St. 
 James's Park, was built by Nash and Blore, between 1825 and 1837, upon the site of 
 Buckingham House, of which the ground-floor alone remains. The northern side of 
 the site was a portion of the Mulberry-garden, planted by James I. in 1609, which in 
 the next two reigns became a public garden. Evelyn describes it in 1654 as " y e only 
 place of refreshment about y e towne for persons of y e best quality to be exceedingly 
 cheated at ;" and Pepys refers to it as " a silly place," but with " a wilderness some- 
 what pretty." It is a favourite locality in the gay comedies of Charles II.'s reign. 
 
 Dryden frequented the Mulberry Gardens ; and according to a contemporary, the poet ate tarts there 
 with Mrs. Anire Reeve, hit mistress. The company sat in arbours, and were regaled with cheesecakes, 
 t-yllabubs, and sweetened wine , wine-and-water at dinner, and a dish of tea afterwards. Sometimes the 
 ladies wore masks. " The country ladys, for the first mouth, take up their places in the Mulberry Gar- 
 dens as early as a citizen's wife at anew.play." Sir C. Sedley's Mulberry Garden, 1668. 
 " A princely palace on that space does rise 
 Where Sedley's noble muse found mulberries." Dr. King. 
 
 Upon the above part of the garden site was built Goring House, let to the Earl of 
 Arlington in 1666, and thence named Arlington House : in this year the Earl brought 
 from Holland, for 60*., the first pound of tea received in England ; so that, in all 
 probability, the first cup of tea made in England was drunk upon the site of Bucking- 
 ham Palace. There is a rare print of Arlington House, by Sutton Nichols, and a copy 
 by John Seago. In 1698 the property was sold to Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, 
 for whom the house was rebuilt in 1703, in the heavy Dutch style, of red brick, with 
 stone finishings. Some vignettes of the mansion, then Buckingham House, are en- 
 graved at the heads of chapters, and in illuminated capitals, of the second volume of 
 the collected poems of Buckingham, " the Muses' friend, himself a Muse." On the four 
 sides he inscribed, in gold, four pedantic mottoes : " Sic siti laetantur Lares ;" " Rus in 
 urbe ;" " Spectator fastidiosus sibi molestus ;" and " Lente inccepit, cito perfecit." The 
 house was surmounted with lead figures of Mercury, Secrecy, Equity, Liberty, Truth, 
 and Apollo ; arid the Four Seasons. Defoe describes it as " one of the great beauties 
 of London, both by reason of its situation and its building :" its fine garden, noble
 
 PALACE, BUCKINGHAM. 627 
 
 terrace (with prospect of open country), a little park with a pretty canal ; and the 
 basin of water, and Neptune and Tritons' fountain in the front court. The Duke of 
 Buckingham, in a letter to the Duke of Shrewsbury, minutely describes the mansion : 
 its hall painted in the school of Raphael ; its parlour by Rieci ; its staircase with the 
 story of Dido ; its ceiling with gods and goddesses ; and its grand saloon by Gentileschi. 
 The flat leaded roof was balustraded for a promenade ; and here was a cistern holding 
 50 tons of water, driven up by an engine from the Thames. 
 
 To his third wife, a natural daughter of James II. by Catherine Sedley, the Duke was tenderly 
 attached, and studied her convenience in planning 1 Buckingham House : " the highest story of the pri- 
 vate apartments," he tells us, " is fitted for the women and children, with the floors so contrived as to 
 prevent all noise over my wife's head during the mysteries of Lucina." 
 
 Buckingham House was purchased by George III. for 21,000. in 1762, shortly 
 after the birth of the Prince of Wales at St. James's Palace : their Majesties soon 
 removed here, and all their succeeding children were born here. In 1775 the property 
 was settled on Queen Charlotte (in exchange for Somerset House), and thenceforth 
 Buckingham House was called " the Queen's House." Here the King collected his 
 magnificent library, now in the British Museum (see p. 584). Dr. Johnson, by per- 
 mission of the librarian, frequently consulted books ; and here he held his memorable 
 conversation with George III. 
 
 " It is curious that the royal collector (George III.) and his venerable librarian (Mr. Barnard) should 
 have survived almost sixty years after commencing 1 the formation of this, the most complete private 
 library in Europe, steadily appropriating 20001. per annum to this object, and adhering with scrupulous 
 attention to the instructions of Dr. Johnson, contained in the admirable letter printed by order of the 
 House of Commons." Quarterly Review, June, 1826. 
 
 In 1766 the Cartoons of Raphael were removed here, to an octagonal apartment 
 at the south-east angle : thence they were transferred to Windsor Castle in 1788. The 
 Saloon was superbly fitted as the Throne-room, and here Queeu Charlotte held her 
 public drawing-rooms; in the Crimson, Blue Velvet, and other rooms, was a fine 
 collection of pictures. Thus the mansion remained until 1825, externally " dull, 
 dowdy, and decent ; nothing more than a large, substantial, and respectable-looking 
 red brick house." 
 
 The Palace, as reconstructed by Nash, consisted of three sides of a square, Roman- 
 Corinthian, raised upon a Doric basement, with pediments at the ends ; the fourth 
 side, enclosed by iron palisades, with a central entrance arch of white marble, adapted 
 from that of Constantino at Rome. Mr. Nash was succeeded by Mr. Blore, who 
 raised the building a story ; and the palace was opened for public inspection in 1831; 
 when appeared, in Fraser's Magazine, an architectural description of the Palace, 
 written by Allan Cunningham. William IV. and Queen Adelaide did not remove 
 here ; but on July 13, 1837, Queen Victoria took up her residence here. In 1846- 
 the erection of the east side was commenced ; and in 1851 the Marble Arch was re- 
 moved to the north-east corner of Hyde Park. There have since been added a spacious 
 Ball-room, &c., on the south side of the Palace. 
 
 The East Front of Buckingham Palace is German, of the last century : its extent 
 is 360 feet, height 77 feet ; extreme height of centre 90 feet ; frontage 70 feet in 
 advance of the former wings. The four central gate-piers are capped by an heraldic 
 lion and unicorn, and dolphins ; and the state entrances have golden grilles of rich 
 design. The wings are surmounted by statues of Morning, Noon (Apollo), and 
 Night ; the Hours, and the Seasons ; and upon turrets flanking the central shield 
 (bearing "V. R. 1847") are colossal figures of Britannia and St. George; besides 
 groups of trophies, festoons of flowers, &c. The Royal Standard is hoisted on the west 
 front when her Majesty is resident at the Palace. The inner front has a central 
 double portico; the tympanum is filled with sculpture, and the pediment crowned 
 with statues of Neptune, Commerce, and Navigation in the centre. Around the 
 entire building is a scroll frieze of the rose, shamrock, and thistle. The Garden or 
 Western Front, architecturally the principal one, has five Corinthian towers, and a 
 balustraded terrace; the upper portion having statues, trophies, and bas-reliefs, by 
 Flaxman and other sculptors. The materials are Portland-stone and cement. 
 
 The Marble Hall and Sculpture Gallery have mosaic bordered floors, and ranges 
 of Carrara columns with mosaic gold bases and capitals. The sculptures consist 
 
 332
 
 628 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 chiefly of busts of the Royal Family and eminent statesmen. Beyond the Sculpture 
 Gallery is the Library. The Grand Staircase is marble, with ormolu acanthus 
 balustrades : the ceiling has frescoes by Townsend, of Morning, Evening, Noon, and 
 Night, on a gold ground ; besides wreaths of flowers, imitative marbles, &c., in the 
 Italian manner. The brief pageant of the Queen leaving the Palace to proceed in 
 state to open Parliament may be witnessed by Tickets of admission to the Hall, 
 issued by the Lord Great Chamberlain. Upon such occasions, the Yeomen of the 
 Guard, Yeomen Porters, and other official persons, in their rich costumes, while the 
 Sovereign proceeds to the State-carriage, present a magnificent scene. The Vesti- 
 bule is richly decorated with vermilion and gold : here are a marble statue of the 
 Queen, by Gibson, R.A. ; and of Prince Albert, by Wyatt ; also bas-reliefs of Peace 
 and War, by John Thomas. The looking-glass and ormolu doors cost 300 guineas a-pair, 
 and each mosaic gold capital and base 30 guineas. 
 
 The principal State Apartments are : the Green Drawing-room, in the centre of the 
 east front, and opening upon the upper portico : for state balls, Tippoo Sahib's Tent is 
 added to this room, upon the portico, and is lighted by a gorgeous " Indian sun,'"' 
 8 feet in diameter. Next is the Throne Boom, which is 64 feet in length : the walls 
 are hung with crimson satin ; and the coved ceiling is emblazoned with arms, and 
 gilded in the boldest Italian style of the fifteenth century. Beneath is a white 
 marble frieze, sculptured by Baily, with the Wars of the Roses, Stothard's last 
 great design.* On the north side of the apartment is an alcove, with crimson 
 velvet hangings, gilding, and emblazonry, and a fascia of massive gilt wreaths 
 and figures. In this recess is placed the Royal throne, or chair of state ; 
 seated in which, surrounded by her Ministers, great officers of State, and the 
 Court, her Majesty receives addresses. In this room also are held Privy Councils. 
 The Picture Gallery, in the centre of the palace, is about 180 feet in length by 26 feet 
 in breadth, and has a semi-Gothic roof, with a triple row of ground-glass lights, 
 bearing the stars of all the orders of knighthood in Europe ; but Von Raumer con- 
 siders the light false and insufficient, and broken by the architectural decorations. 
 Occasionally, this gallery has been used as a ball-room, and for state banquets. 
 
 The door-cases have colossal caryatidal figures, and are gorgeously gilt ; and the 
 marble chimney-pieces are sculptured with medallion portraits of great painters. 
 
 The collection of pictures formed by George IV. is pre-eminently rich in Dutch and Flemish art. 
 The chief exceptions are Reynolds's Death of Dido, his Cymon and Iphigenia, and Sir Joshua's portrait 
 in spectacles ; the Penny Wedding, and Blind Man's Buff, by Wilkie ; a Landscape by Gainsborough, 
 and a few recent English works ; and 4 pictures by Watteau. In the collection are an Altar-piece by 
 Albert Durer; 7 pictures by Rembrandt, including the Shipbuilder and his Wife, for which George IV., 
 when Prince of Wales, gave 6000 guineas ; Rubens, 7 ; Marriage of St. Catherine, and 4 others, by Van- 
 dyke; Vandervelde, 7; younger Vandervelde, 4; G. Dow, 8; Paul Potter, 4; A. Ostade, 9; younger 
 Teniers, 14 ; Vandermeulen, 13 ; Wouvermans, 9 ; Cuyp, 9. 
 
 In the State Rooms are royal portraits, by Kneller, Lely, A. Ramsay, N. Dance, Copley, Gainsborough, 
 Wright, Lawrence, Wilkie, Winterhalter, &c. 
 
 In the Western Front is the Grand (central) Saloon, north of which is the Yellow 
 Draiving-room, communicating with the Private Apartments of her Majesty, which 
 extend along the north front of the palace. The Grand Saloon has a semicircular 
 bay, and scagliola lapis-lazuli columns with mosaic gold capitals, supporting a rich 
 architrave, and bas-relief of children with emblems of music ; the domed ceilings are 
 richly gilt with roses, shamrocks, and thistles, acanthus-leaves, and the royal arms 
 in the spandrels. The large apartment, formerly the State Ball-room, north of the 
 Grand Saloon, has scagliola porphyry Corinthian columns, with gilded capitals, carrying 
 an entablature and coved ceiling, elaborately gilt : here are Winterhalter's portraits of 
 the Queen and Prince Albert ; and Vandyke's Charles I. and Henrietta- Maria. South 
 of the Ball-room is the State Dining-room, which has an elegantly wrought ceiling, 
 and circular panels bearing the regal crown and the monogram V. R. ; the whole in 
 stone tint : here are Lawrence's whole length of George IV. in his coronation robes, 
 and other royal portraits. 
 
 The South Wing, added since 1850, contains the kitchen and other domestic offices, 
 
 * The venerable Stothard was between seventy and eisrhty years old when he designed this frieze; 
 yet it possesses all the vigour and imagination which had distinguished his best days. The drawings 
 were sold at Christie's, on the decease oi the painter; Mr. Samuel Rogers became the purchaser.
 
 PALACE, BUCKINGHAM. 629 
 
 on the two lower stories; and above them, a Ball-room, 139 feet long; Supper-room, 76 
 feet ; and Promenade-gallery, 109 feet j the wing harmonizing with the Palace, as 
 built for George IV. The Ball-room was designed to be used for State-balls, State 
 concerts, and, on special occasions, as a State reception-room and banqueting room. 
 The ceiling is divided by broad and deep bands into twenty-one square compartments, 
 resting on a bold and highly-enriched cove, which runs round the whole room. The 
 enrichments are all executed in plaster, carefully modelled and highly finished. The 
 walls on each side of the room are divided into thirteen compartments. Fourteen of 
 the twenty-six are windows, the others being filled in with paintings, representing the 
 twelve hours, copied from the small originals by Raphael, existing in Rome. The 
 silk hangings of the walls were woven in Lyons, from a design made to suit the room. 
 
 The lighting of the room is peculiar, and very effective. In each compartment of the ceiling there 
 is a large sunlight gas-burner (21 in all), each enclosed in a chandelier or lustre of richly-cut glass, 
 executed by Osier, and forming a brilliant pendant in the centre of each compartment. A great portion 
 of the light is, however, obtained, and a most brilliant effect is produced, by the novel method of illumi- 
 nating the fourteen windows, which in most rooms are left either as dark blots, or are concealed by 
 draperies. Next the room these windows are glazed with deeply-cut glass stars of large size, surrounded 
 by borders similarly cut, and lighted by gas-burners, arranged between the outer and inner sashes in 
 such manner as to bring out the full brilliancy of the cut-glass in all its detail. Great attention has 
 been paid to the ventilation of the room. There are also ten magnificent candelabra of gilt bronze, 
 each holding 43 wax caudles, and standing upon the raised platform. 
 
 At the west end a kind of throne or recess has been formed for the Queen, with Corinthian columns 
 carrying an entablature and a bold detached archivolt, on which rests a medallion, containing the pro- 
 files of her Majesty and the Prince Consort, supported by emblematic figures of History and Fame; 
 these, and all other sculptures, around the doors, above the large mirrors placed opposite the doors, and 
 throughout the whole suite of apartments, were executed by Mr. Theed. The recess formed at the east 
 end, above the attendants' rooms, is appropriated to the organ and the orchestra; the latter, for 70 per- 
 formers, can be enlarged for 120. 
 
 The merit of the architectural sculptures is their nationality. The friezes and re- 
 liefs of scenes in British history are mostly by Baily, R.A. : those of Alfred expelling 
 the Danes, and delivering the Laws, on the garden-front, and the Progress of Naviga- 
 tion, on the main front, are fine compositions ; as are also Stothard's Wars of the 
 Roses, in the Throne-room ; and the eastern frieze of the rose, shamrock, and thistle. 
 But the marble chimney-pieces and door-cases, sculptured with caryatides, fruit and 
 flowers, and architectural ornament, often present a strange mixture of fragments of 
 Egypt, Greece, Etruria, Rome, and the Middle Ages, in the same apartment. 
 
 In the garden were formerly two Ionic Conservatories ; the southernmost of which 
 is now the Palace Chapel, consecrated by the Archbishop of Canterbury, March 25, 
 1813. The aisles are formed by rows of Composite cast-iron columns; and at the west 
 end, facing the altar, is the Queen's closet, supported upon Ionic columns from the 
 screen of Carlton House. In the garden is the western boundary-stone of the parish of 
 St. Martin's-in-the- Fields, where, on Holy Thursday is performed the ceremony of 
 " striking the stone." 
 
 The Pleasure-grounds comprise about 40 acres, including the lake of 5 acres ; at the 
 verge of which, upon a lofty artificial mound, is a picturesque pavilion, or garden-house, 
 with a minaret roof. In the centre is an octagonal room, with figures of Midnight and 
 Dawn; and 8 lunettes, painted in fresco, from Milton's Comus, by Eastlake, Maclise, 
 Landseer, Dyce, Stanfield, Uwins, Leslie, and Ross; besides relief arabesques, medallions, 
 figures and groups, from Milton's poems. On the right is a room decorated in the 
 Pompeian style, copied from existing remains. The apartment on the left is embel- 
 lished in the romantic style, from the novels and poems of Sir Walter Scott. (See 
 Gruner's Illustrations, described by Mrs. Jameson.) 
 
 Buckingham Palace has been the scene of two superb Costume Balls in 1842 
 and 1845 : the first in the style of the reign of Edward III. ; and the fete in 1845 in 
 the taste of George II.'s reign. 
 
 The Royal Mews is described at p. 565. The Riding-house has been covered 
 with cement ornamentation ; in the pediment is a large equestrian group, sculptured 
 by Theed, and upon the walls have been placed several large circular vases ; the bank 
 has here been raised and planted with trees, to screen the palace-garden. 
 
 Immediately under the Palace passes " The King's Scholars' Pond Sewer," the main drain of one of 
 the principal divisions of the Westminster connexion of sewers, occupying the whole channel of a 
 rivulet formerly known as Tye Brook, having its source at Hampstead, and draining an area of 20CO
 
 30 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 acres, 1500 of whi'ch are covered with houses. A large portion of the sewer arches was reconstructed, 
 under densely-populated neighbourhoods, without any suspicion on the part of the inhabitants of what 
 was going on a few feet below the foundations of their houses. In its present complete state, this is, 
 perhaps, one of the most remarkable and extensive pieces of sewerage ever executed in this or any 
 other country. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S PAIACE, Westminster, on the north side of St. James's Park, and at 
 the western end of Pall Mall, occupies the site of a hospital, founded by some pious 
 citizens prior to the Norman Conquest, for fourteen leprous females, to whom eight 
 brethren were added to perform divine service. The good work was dedicated to St. 
 James, and was endowed by the citizens with lands ; and in 1290, Edward I. granted 
 to the foundation the privilege of an annual Fair, to be held on the eve of St. James 
 and six following days. The house was rebuilt by Berkynge, abbot of Westminster, 
 in Henry III.'s reign; and in 1450 its perpetual custody was granted by Henry VI. 
 to Eton College. In 1532, Henry VIII. obtained the hospital in exchange for Chat- 
 tisham and other lands in Suffolk : he then dismissed the inmates, pensioned the sister- 
 hood ; and having pulled down the ancient structure, he " purchased all the meadows 
 about St. James's, and there made a faire mansion and a parke for his greater com- 
 moditie and pleasure" (Holinshed) : the Sutherland View of 1543 shows the palace far 
 away in the fields. " The Manor House," as it was then called, is believed to have 
 been planned by Holbein, and built under the direction of Cromwell, Earl of Essex. 
 Henry's gatehouse and turrets face St. James's-street : the original hospital, to judge 
 from certain remains of stone mullions, labels, and other masonry, found in 1838, on 
 taking down some parts of the Chapel Royal, was of the Norman period. It was 
 occasionally occupied by Henry as a semi-rural residence, down to the period when 
 Wolsey surrendered Whitehall to the Crown. Edward and Elizabeth rarely resided at 
 St. James's : but Mary made it the place of her gloomy retirement during the absence 
 of her husband, Philip of Spain : here she expired. The Manor House, with all its 
 appurtenances, except the park and the stables or the mews, were granted by James I. 
 to his son Henry in 1610; at whose death, in 1612, they reverted to the Crown. 
 Charles I. enlarged the palace, and most of his children (including Charles II.) were 
 born in it : here he deposited the gallery of antique statues principally collected for 
 him by Sir Kenelm Digby. In this reign was fitted up the chapel of the hospital, 
 on the west side, as the Chapel Soyal, described at pp. 140-1. Here Charles I. attended 
 divine service on the morning of his execution ; " from hence the king walked through 
 the Park, guarded with a regiment of foot and partisans, to Whitehall." (Whitelock's 
 Memorials, p. 374.) The Queen's Chapel, now the German Chapel, was built for 
 Catherine of Braganza, in the friary of the conventual establishment founded here by 
 her Majesty, under the direction of Cardinal Howard. 
 
 The Queen first heard mass there on Sunday, September 21, 1662, when Lady Castlemaine, though 
 a Protestant, and the King's avowed mistress, attended her as one of her maids of honour. Pepys 
 describes " the fine altar ornaments, the fryers in their habits, and the priests with their fine crosses, 
 and many other fine things." Diary, vol. i. p. 312. 
 
 At " St. James's House" Monk resided while planning the Restoration. In the old 
 bed-chamber, now the ante-chamber to the levee-room, was born James (the old Pre- 
 tender), the son of James II. by Mary of Modena : the bed stood close to the back 
 stairs, and favoured the scandal of the child being conveyed in a warming-pan to the 
 Queen's bed. In this reign Verrio, the painter, was keeper of the palace- gar dens. 
 During the Civil Wars, St. James's became the prison-house, for nearly three years, 
 of the Duke of York and Duke of Gloucester, and the Princess Elizabeth : on April 20, 
 1648, the Duke of York escaped from the palace-garden into the Park, through the 
 Spring Garden, to a hackney-coach in waiting for him ; and, in female disguise, he 
 reached a Dutch vessel below Gravesend. After the Restoration, the Duke occupied 
 St. James's ; and one of its rooms was hung with portraits of the Court Beauties, by 
 Sir Peter Lely. Here the Duke slept the night before his coronation as James II., and 
 next morning proceeded to Whitehall. 
 
 On December 18, 1688, William Prince of Orange came to St. James's, where, three 
 days afterwards, the peers assembled, and the household and other officers of the 
 abdicated sovereign laid down their badges. Evelyn says : " All the world goes to see 
 the Prince at St. James's, where there is a greate court. There I saw him : he is
 
 PALACE, ST. JAMES'S. 631 
 
 very stately, serious, and reserved." (Diary, vol. i. p. 680.) King William occasionally 
 held councils here : hut it was not until after the burning of Whitehall, in 1697, that 
 this Palace became used for state ceremonies, whence dates the Court of St. James's. 
 William and Mary, however, resided chiefly at Kensington ; and St. James's was next 
 fitted up for George Prince of Denmark, and the Princess Anne, who, on her accession 
 to the throne, considerably enlarged the edifice. George I. lived here like a private 
 gentleman : in 1727 he gave a banquet here to the entire Court of Common Council. 
 The fourth plate of Hogarth's " Rake's Progress" shows St. James's Palace gateway 
 in 1735, with the quaint carriages and chairs arriving on the birthday of Caroline, 
 George II.'s consort : her Majesty died at St. James's in 1737. The wing facing 
 Cleveland-row was built for Frederick Prince of Wales, on his marriage in 1736. 
 The State Rooms were enlarged on the accession flf George III., whose marriage was 
 celebrated here September 6, 1761. George IV. was born here August 12, 1762; 
 and shortly afterwards the Queen's bed was removed to the Great Drawing-room, and 
 company were admitted to see the infant prince on drawing-room days. The court 
 was held here during the reign of George III., though his domestic residence was at 
 Buckingham House. St. James's was refitted on the marriage of the Prince of Wales, 
 April 8, 1795, in the Chapel Royal. On January 21, 1809, the east wing of the 
 palace, including their majesties' private apartments and those of the Duke of Cam- 
 bridge, was destroyed by fire, and has not been rebuilt. In 1814 the State Apartments 
 were fitted up for the Emperor of Russia and the King of Prussia, when also Marshal 
 Bluchcr was an inmate of the palace. In 1822 a magnificent banqueting-hall was 
 added to the state-rooms. In January, 1827, the remains of the Duke of York lay 
 in state in the palace. William IV. and Queen Adelaide resided here ; but since the 
 accession of her present Majesty, St. James's has only been used for courts, levees and 
 drawing-rooms, and occasionally for State-balls. 
 
 The lofty brick gatehouse bears upon its roof the bell of the Great Clock, dated 
 A.D. 1731, and inscribed with the name of Clay, clockmaker to George II. It strikes 
 the hours and quarters upon three bells, requires to be wound every day, and originally 
 had only one hand. A print of the court-yard, with the meeting of Mary de Medicis 
 and her daughter Henrietta-Maria, in 1638, shows a dial which must have belonged 
 to a previous clock. The present clock was under the care of the Vulliamys, the Royal 
 clockmakers, from 1743, until the death of B. L. VuUiamy. 
 
 number of very small pieces, curiously dovetailed together 
 
 The gatehouse enters the quadrangle, named the Colour Court, from the colours of 
 the military guard of honour being placed here : in this court one of the three regiments 
 of Foot Guards is relieved alternately every morning at eleven o'clock, when the keys 
 of the garrison are delivered and the regimental standard exchanged, during the per- 
 formance of the bands of music. Westward is the Ambassadors' Court, where are the 
 apartments of certain branches of the Royal Family ; and beyond it the Stable- Yard, 
 anciently the stable-yard of the palace, and where was the Queen's Library, upon the 
 site of Stafford House. Here is Clarence House, described at p. 547. On the east 
 side is the Lord Chamberlain's office, where permission may be obtained to view the 
 palace. Eastward of the gatehouse is the Office of the Board of Green Cloth ; and 
 still further, the office of the Lord Steward of Her Majesty's Household. Beyond are 
 the gates leading to the quadrangle, known of old as " the Chair Court." The State 
 Apartments, in the south front of the palace, front the garden and St. James's Park. 
 The Sovereign enters by the garden gate ; and it was here, on the 2nd of August, 1796, 
 that Margaret Nicholson attempted to assassinate George III. as he was alighting 
 from his carriage. The State Apartments are reached by the Great Staircase, the 
 Entree Gallery, the Guard Chamber (its walls covered with weapons in fanciful 
 devices), and a similar apartment. Here are stationed the Yeomen of the Queen's 
 Guard; and the honours of the Guard-Chamber are paid to distinguished personages
 
 632 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 on levee and drawing-room days. George III. held Drawing-rooms much more fre- 
 quently than they are held at present. To quote the Court Guide of 1792, " the 
 King's Levee days are Wednesday and Friday, and likewise Monday during the sitting 
 of Parliament ; his Drawing-room days every Sunday and Thursday." 
 
 Teamen of the Guard were first instituted in 1485, by Henry VII., upon the model of a somewhat 
 similar band retained by Louis XI. of France. They were at first archers; but on the death of 
 William III. all took the partisan, as now carried. The dress has continued almost unaltered since 
 the reign of Charles II. 
 
 The Corps of Gentlemen-at-Arms (changed from Pensioners by William IV.) was instituted by 
 Henry VIII., disbanded during the Civil Wars, but reconstructed at the Restoration, and at the Revo- 
 lution of 1688. In 1745, when George II. raised his standard on Finchley Common, these " Gentlemen" 
 were ordered to provide themselves with horses and equipment to attend his Majesty to the field. 
 Their present uniform is scarlet and gold : and the corps carry on parade small battle-axes covered 
 with crimson velvet. On April 10, 1848, on the apprehension of a Chartist outbreak, St. James's Palace 
 was garrisoned and guarded by these ancient bodies. 
 
 Beyond the Guard-Chamber is the Tapestry Boom, hung with gorgeous tapestry 
 made for Charles II., and representing the amours of Venus and Mars. The stone 
 Tudor arch of the fireplace is sculptured with the letters H. A. (Henry and Anne 
 Boleyn), united by a true-lover's knot, surmounted by a regal crown ; also the lily of 
 France, the portcullis of Westminster, and the rose of Lancaster. Here the sovereigns 
 of the House of Brunswick, on the death of their predecessors, are received by the 
 Privy Council, and from the capacious bay window proclaimed and presented to the 
 people assembled in the outer court, where are the sergeants-at-arms and band of 
 household trumpeters. The proclamation of her present Majesty, on June 21, 1837, 
 was a touching spectacle. Next the Tapestry-Room is Queen Anne's Room, the first 
 of the four great state apartments. In this room the remains of Frederick Duke of 
 York lay in State in January 1827. This apartment opens to the Ante-Draiving- 
 Room, leading by three doors into the Presence Chamber or Throne Room, beyond 
 which is the Queen's Closet. The throne, at the upper end of the Presence Chamber, 
 is large and stately, and emblazoned with arms : the window-draperies here and in 
 the Queen's Closet are of splendid tissu-de-verre. The entire suite is gorgeously gilt, 
 hung with crimson Spitalfields damasks, brocades, and velvets, embroidered with gold ; 
 and the Wilton carpets bear the royal arms. 
 
 The public are admitted to the corridor by tickets to see the company vipon Draw- 
 ing-room days ; and upon certain occasions, when bulletins of the health of the sove- 
 reign are issued, they are shown to the public as they pass through the state-rooms. 
 
 Pictures in the State Apartments. Large paintings of the Siege of Tournay, and the Siege of Lisle 
 by the Duke of Marlborough. Portraits of Charles II., George I., George II., and Queen Anne; 
 George III., the Prince of Wales, and the Duke of York, by Sir Joshua Reynolds; George IV. and the 
 Duke of York, by Sir Thomas Lawrence. Count La Lippe, and the Marquis of Granby, by Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds. Beauties of the Court of Charles II., copied from Hampton Court. Lord Nelson, Earl St. 
 Vincent, and Lord Rodney, by Hoppner. The Battles of Vittoria and Waterloo, by G. Jones, R.A. In 
 the Entree Gallery are whole-length portraits of Henry VIII., reputed by Holbein; Queen Mary; 
 Queen Elizabeth, by Zucchero ; James I., Charles I., after Vandyke ; Charles II., James II., and William 
 and Mary. 
 
 The curious pictures which were here in Pennant's time have been removed : including a Child, 
 three years six months old, in the robes of a Knight of the Garter, the second son of James I.; also 
 Geoffrey Hudson, the Dwarf; and Mabuse's Adam and Eve, painted with navels. 
 
 Here George IV. formed a fine collection of pictures, to which was added, in 1828, Haydon's " Mock 
 Election," which the King purchased of the painter for 500 guineas. 
 
 KENSINGTON PALACE, about two miles west of the metropolis, is named from the 
 adjoining town, although it is situated in the parish of St. Margaret, Westminster : 
 
 " High o'er the neighbouring lands, 
 "Midst greens and sweets, a regal fabric stands." TicTcell. 
 
 The original mansion was purchased (with the grounds, six acres) by King William 
 III., in 1691, of Daniel Finch, second Earl of Nottingham. Evelyn notes : 
 
 "Feb. 25, 1690-1. I went to Kensington, which King William had bought of Lord Nottingham 
 and altered, but was yet a patched-up building ; but with the gardens, however, it is a very neat villa." 
 jtfemoirs, vol. ii. 
 
 In the following November the house was nearly destroyed by fire, and the king 
 narrowly escaped being burned in his bed. The premises had been possessed by the 
 Finch family about half a century ; and after Sir Heneage Finch's advancement to the 
 peerage, the mansion was called " Nottingham House." William III. employed Wren 
 and Hawksmoor, who built the King's Gallery and the south front ; the eastern front
 
 PALACE, KENSINGTON. 633 
 
 was added by George I., from the designs of Kent ; the north wing is part of old 
 Nottingham House. The entire palace is of crimson brick, with stone finishings; and 
 consists of the Clock Court, Prince's Court, and Princess' Court. King William aeld 
 councils in this palace ; its decoration was the favourite amusement of Queen Mary ; 
 and it was next fitted up as the residence of Queen Anne and Prince George of Den- 
 mark : for her luxurious Majesty was built the Banqueting-House, described at page 
 493. The principal additions made by Kent, for George I., were the Cupola Room 
 and the Great Staircase ; the latter painted with groups of portraits from the Court, 
 Yeomen of the Guard, pages, a Quaker, two Turks in the suite of George I., and Peter 
 the Wild Boy. George II. and Queen Caroline passed most of their time here ; and 
 during the King's absence on the Continent, the Queen held at Kensington a court 
 every Sunday. In this palace died Queen Mary and King William ; Queen Anne and 
 the Prince Consort ; and George II. 
 
 The Great Staircase, of black and white marble, and graceful ironwork (the walls 
 painted by Kent with mythological subjects in chiaroscuro, and architectural and 
 sculptural decoration), leads to the suite of twelve State Apartments, some of which 
 are hung with tapestry and have painted ceilings. The Presence Chamber has a 
 chimney-piece richly sculptured by Gibbons with flowers, fruits, and heads ; the ceiling 
 is diapered red, blue, and gold upon a white field, copied by Kent from Herculaneum ; 
 the pier-glass is wreathed with flowers by Jean Baptiste Monnoyer. The King's 
 Gallery, in the south front, has an elaborately painted allegorical ceiling; and a cir- 
 cular fresco of a Madonna, after Raphael. The Cube Room is forty feet in height, 
 and contains gilded statues and busts ; and a marble bas-relief of a Roman marriage, 
 by Rysbraeck. The King's Great Drawing-room was hung with the then new paper, 
 in imitation of the old velvet flock. The Queen's Gallery in the rear of the eastern 
 front, continued northwards, has above the doorway the monogram of William and 
 Mary ; and the pediment is enriched with fruits and flowers in high relief and wholly 
 detached, probably carved by Gibbons. The Green Closet was the private closet of 
 William III., and contained his writing-table and escritoire ; and the Patchwork Closet 
 had its walls and chairs covered with tapestry worked by Queen Mary. 
 
 During the reign of George III. the palace was forsaken by the sovereign ; towards 
 its close, a suite of rooms was fitted up for the Princess of Wales, and her aged mother 
 the Duchess of Brunswick. The lower south-eastern apartments beneath the King's 
 Gallery were occupied by the late Duke of Kent : here, May 24, 1819, was born 
 Queen Victoria ; christened here on June 24th following ; and on June 20, 1837, her 
 Majesty held here her first Council, which has been admirably painted by Wilkie. 
 
 At Kensington Palace the Princess Victoria received the intelligence of the death of William IV., as 
 described in the Diaries of a Lady of Quality : " June, 1837. On the 20th, at 2 A.M., the scene closed, 
 and in a very short time, the Archbishop of Canterbury and Lord Conyngham, the Chamberlain, set out 
 to announce the event to their young Sovereign. They reached Kensington Palace at about five; they 
 knocked, they rang, they thumped lor a considerable time before they could rouse the porter at the 
 gates ; they were again kept waiting in the courtyard, then turned into one of the lower rooms, where 
 they seemed forgotten by everybody. They rang the bell, desired that the attendant of the Princess 
 Victoria might be sent to inform H.R.H. that they requested an audience on business of importance. 
 After another delay, and another ringing to inquire the cause, the attendant was summoned, who stated 
 that the Princess was in such a sweet sleep she could not venture to disturb her. Then they said, ' We 
 are come to the Queen on business of State, and even her sleep must give way to that.' It did : and to 
 prove that she did not keep them waiting, in a few minutes she came into the room in a loose white 
 nightgown and shawl, her nightcap thrown off, and her hair falling upon her shoulders her feet in 
 slippers, tears in her eyes, but perfectly collected and dignified. 
 
 " The first act of the reign was of course the summoning of the Council, and most of the summonses 
 were not received till after the early hour fixed for its meeting. The Queen was, upon the opening of 
 the doors, found sitting at the head of the table. She received first the homage of the Duke of Cum- 
 berland, who, I suppose, was not King of Hanover when he knelt to her ; the Duke of Sussex rose to 
 perform the same ceremony, but the Queen, with admirable grace, stood up, and, preventing him from 
 kneeling, kissed him on the forehead. The crowd was so great, the arrangements were so ill-made, 
 that my brothers told me the scene of swearing allegiance to their young Sovereign was more like that 
 of the bidding at an auction than anything else." fSir David Wilkie has painted the scene but with a 
 difference.] 
 
 The south wing of the older part of the palace was occupied by the late Duke of 
 Sussex, who died here April 21, 1843. 
 
 Here the Duke of Sussex, during 25 years, collected the celebrated Bibliotheca Sussexiana, number- 
 ing nearly 50,000 printed books and MSS., purchased volume by volume, at the sacrifice of many 
 an object of princely luxury and indulgence. The collection included nearly 300 Theological MSS. of 
 the tenth, twelfth, thirteenth, fourteenth, and fifteenth centuries ; besides about 500 early printed books
 
 34 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 relating to the Holy Scriptures. Among the rarities were 48 Hebrew MSS., some rolled ; a richly 
 illuminated Hebrew and Chaldaic Pentateuch, thirteenth century ; a Greek New Testament, thirteenth, 
 century, illuminated ; 16 copies of the Vulgate, on vellum, two with 100 miniatures in gold and colours ; 
 a splendidly illuminated Psalter, tenth century ; missals, breviaries, hours, offices, &c. ; La Bible 
 Moralises (fifteenth century); Historia del Vecchio Testamento, with 519 miniatures of the school of 
 Giotto ; several copies of the Koran, including that found by the conquerors of Seringapatam in the 
 library of Tippoo Sultan, with his spectacles between the leaves, as if the perusal of it had been one of 
 the latest acts of Tippoo's life; Armenian copy of the Gospels, thirteenth century; MSS. in the Pali, 
 Burman, Cingalese, &c. In the printed books were all the celebrated Polyglots, in fine condition ; 74 
 editions of the Hebrew Bible ; 17 Hebrew-Samaritan and Hebrew Pentateuchs (Bomberg editions), and 
 the Great Rabbinical Bible, magnificent specimens of Hebrew printing ; Greek Bibles, of precious 
 value; Latin Bibles, 200 editions; Bibles in other languages, 1200 editions. In the Divinity classes 
 were, the first Armenian, the first Irish, the first Sclavonic, the first German, and the first Reformed 
 editions of Luther; the first English Bible, by Coverdale; the first Greek Bible, or Cranmer's, &c. ; 
 besides Classics, Lexicography, Chronicles, Law, and Parliamentary Histories, of immense extent. The 
 theological collection filled aw apartment 100 feet in length; and here, seated in a curtained chair, the 
 Duke passed the life of a toil-worn student. In these rooms His Royal Highness gave his conversa- 
 eioni as President of the Royal Society. 
 
 In Kensington Palace was formerly deposited the greater part of the royal collection 
 of paintings, commenced by Henry VIII. ; and removed here by William III., as ap- 
 pears from a catalogue taken in 1700, and now in the British Museum. The collection 
 was much augmented by Queen Caroline, but after the death of George II., several of" 
 the finest pictures were removed to Windsor and elsewhere. In 1818, however, here 
 were more than 600 pictures, which were catalogued by B. West, P.R.A. Few now 
 remain : but in the southern apartments is a collection of Byzantine, early Italian, 
 German, and Flemish paintings, formerly the property of Prince Louis D'Ottingen 
 Wallerstein, and purchased by the late Prince Consort. The majority of these 102 
 pictures are curious specimens of sacred art, triptychs, altar-pieces, and other works 
 of primitive design and elaborate antiquity. 
 
 The Green, westward of the Palace, and called in ancient records " the Moor," was 
 the military parade when the Court resided here, and the royal standard was hoisted 
 daily. Here are barracks for foot-soldiers, who mount guard at the Palace. North- 
 ward of the Palace were the kitchen-gardens, about 20 acres, now Queen's-road, with 
 two lines of elegant villas. (See KENSINGTON GAEDENS,* pp. 493, 494). 
 
 CAEITON HOUSE occupied that portion of Waterloo-place which is south of Pall 
 Mall. It was originally built for Lord Carlton, in 1709 : bequeathed by him to his 
 nephew, Lord Burl *gton, the architect, and purchased, in 1732, by Frederick Prince of 
 Wales, father of Gwrge III. : here the Princess of Wales died in 1772. The house 
 was of red brick. The name of the original architect, in the time of Queen Anne, is 
 not known, but the celebrated landscape gardener-architect Kent laid out the grounds 
 when the property was in Lord Burlington's hands, between 1725 and 1732. These 
 gardens extended along the south side of Pall-mall, and are said to have been in imita- 
 tion of Pope's garden at Twickenham, with numerous bowers, grottoes, and terminal 
 busts. Mr. Cunningham speaks of an engraving of them by Woollett. When the 
 property was assigned in 1783 as the residence of the Prince of Wales afterwards 
 George IV. great alterations were made in Carlton House, under Holland, the 
 Prince's architect. 
 
 Horace Walpole writes, Sept. 17, 1785 : " We went to see the Prince's new palace in Pall Mall, and 
 were charmed. It will be the most perfect in Europe. There is an august simplicity that astonished 
 me. You cannot call it magnificent ; it is the taste and propriety that strike. Every ornament is at a 
 proper distance, and not one too large, but all delicate and new, with more freedom and variety than 
 Greek ornaments [designed by Gobert] . . . and there are three most spacious apartments, all looking 
 on the lovely garden, a terreno, a state apartment, and an attic. The portico, vestibule, hall, and stair- 
 case will be superb, and, to my taste, full of perspectives : the jewel of all is a small music-room, that 
 opens into a green recess, and winding walk of the gardens. In all the fairy tales you have been, you 
 never was in so pretty a scene, Madam [Countess of Ossory.) I forgot to tell you how admirably all the 
 carving, stucco, and ornaments, are executed ; but whence the money is to come, I conceive not ; all the 
 tin mines in Cornwall could not pay a quarter. How sick one shall be after this chaste palace of Mr. 
 Adam's gingerbread and sippets of embroidery !" Letters; Cunningham's edit. vol. ix. p. 13. 
 
 The main front of the house had a central portico, was hexastyle, and of the Corin- 
 thian order. The hall was square on the plan, and on each side was an opening, or a 
 recess, with a segmental coffered arch, enclosing two Ionic columns and entablature, the 
 last supporting vases and chimera. A landing of the staircase was octagonal in plan, 
 
 * " The gravel of Kensington is of European repute. At the gardens of Versailles, and Caserta, 
 dear Naples, the walks have been supplied from the Kensington gravel-pits." Quarterly Review, No. 
 cxxxix. p. 237.
 
 PALL MALL. 635 
 
 with well-hole and lantern-light ; and the angles of the ceiling there, were formed hy 
 fan-shaped springers. One of the dining-rooms was circular, with columns and re- 
 cesses, somewhat after the arrangement of those features in the Pantheon at Rome. 
 At the opposite sides of this room were large mirrors. The general decoration of the 
 house was of pseudo-classical character. Trophies were freely introduced ; and panels, 
 even those of doors, were enriched with lyres, wreaths, and festoons. One common 
 introduction was that of terminal figures. Generally, the ceilings were painted to 
 represent the sky and clouds. In the furniture gilding was used to a great extent. In 
 many of the rooms, the furniture was entirely gilt, with crimson or crimson and black 
 cushions. The ^nost important point for notice as to the interior of Carlton House, is 
 the absence of the Louis Quinze style. The Carlton House chair and table are re- 
 membered. Among the rooms were the Crimson Drawing-room ; the Blue Velvet- 
 room ; the Golden Drawing-room, or Corinthian-room : the Gothic Dining-room. The 
 conservatory, said to be in " imitation of a cathedral, or Henry VII.'s chapel," but 
 equally suggestive of Roslyn Chapel : the ribs of the fan-tracery were filled in with 
 stained glass. 
 
 Here was a remarkably fine collection of arms and costumes, including two swords 
 of Charles I. ; swords of Columbus and Marlborough, and a couteau-de-cltasse used by 
 Charles XII. of Sweden, which relics are now in the North Corridor at Windsor 
 Castle. Carlton House was sumptuously furnished for the Prince's ill-starred marriage 
 in 1795 : here, Jan. 7, 1796, was born the Princess, baptized Feb. 11, Charlotte-Augusta ; 
 and on May 2, 1816, married here to Leopold, subsequently King of the Belgians. 
 The ceremonial of conferring the Regency was enacted at Carlton House with great 
 pomp, Feb. 5, 1811, and on June 19 following, the Prince Regent gave here a superb 
 supper to 2000 guests ; a stream with gold and silver fish flowing through a marble 
 canal down the centre table. 
 
 Upon the screen of Ionic columns fronting Pall Mall, Bonorni wrote the following epigram : 
 " Care colonne, che fatti qua ? 
 
 Non sapiamo, in verita : " 
 Thus anglicized by Prince Hoare: 
 
 " Dear little columns, all in a row, 
 
 What do you do there? 
 Indeed we don't know." 
 
 Sheridan's allusion to these columns was not much more complimentary. About the time that the 
 Duke of York took possession of Melbourne House, now Dover House, near the Horse-Guards, of which 
 the most remarkable feature is the cupola in front, some discussions were raised in Parliament about 
 the debts of the Duke and his royal brother at Carlton House. The virtuous indignation of the Oppo- 
 sition was tremendous : and some of their remarks having been reported to Sheridan when he entered 
 the House of Commons, " I wonder," said he, " what amount of punishment would satisfy some people ! 
 Has not the one got into the Roundhouse, and the other into the Pillory ?" This is another version 
 of the anecdote related at page 549. 
 
 In 1827, Carlton House was removed : the columns of the portico (adapted from the 
 Temple of Jupiter Stator at Rome) being subsequently used in the portico of the 
 National Gallery, and the ornamental interior details (as marble mantel-pieces, friezes, 
 columns, &c.) transferred to Buckingham Palace. The colonnade pillars are employed in 
 one of the orangeries in Kew Gardens. Thus disappeared Carlton House. Upon the site of 
 the gardens have been built the York Column and Carlton House-terrace: the balustrades 
 of the latter originally extended between the two ranges of houses ; but were removed 
 to form the present entrance into St. James's Park, by command of William IV., very 
 soon after his accession. Upon the site of the courtyard and part of Carlton House 
 are the United Service and Athenaeum Clubhouses, and the intervening area facing 
 Waterloo-place. The Riding-house and Stables had a semicircular conch-headed recess, 
 intersected by an entablature ; the Doric columns supporting the latter, being without 
 bases, and fluted, but Roman in character. 
 
 PALL MALL. 
 
 " A FINE spacious street between the Haymarket N.E., and St. James's-street S.W." 
 -LA. (Ration, 1708), and one-third of a mile in length, is named from the French 
 game of paille-maille having been played there. The space between St. James's 
 House and Charing Cross, about 1560, appears to have been fields, with three or four 
 houses at the east end of the present Pall Mall, and opposite a small church, the name
 
 636 OUM08HTE8 OF LONDON. 
 
 of which Pennant could not discover. Down this road came Sir Thomas Wyat, " on 
 foot, hard by the Court-gate of St. James's, with four or five auncients, his men 
 inarching in good way," and thus proceeded to Charing Cross and Whitehall. 
 
 At the east end of Pall Mall, in the reign of Henry VI., stood a group of monastic buildings called 
 "the Rookery," belonging to the monks of Westminster : here resided Erasmus, by favour of Henry VIII. 
 and the interest of Anne Boleyn. When these buildings were demolished at the Reformation, tradition, 
 relates there was found a secret smithy, which had been erected by order of Henry VI. for the practice 
 of alchemy. The premises were subsequently used as an inn, and upon the site was built the first 
 Carltoii House. 
 
 " The Mall," in St. James's-park, not many years since, was commqnly regarded as 
 the place where the game of " Paille-maille " was first played in England, and whence 
 the Park-avenue was said to have taken its name. Strutt calls it " the game of Mall," 
 and thus favours the ahove notion ; but, in Hatton's " spacious street" we have preserved 
 the entire name of the game. Charles II. caused the Mall in the Park to be made for 
 playing the game, which was a fashionable amusement in his reign ; but it was intro- 
 duced into England much earlier, and was not played in the Park until the original alley 
 had grown into a street, and taken the name of the game itself. Blount, in his Glosso- 
 graphy, edit. 1670, says, " this game was heretofore used in the long alley near St. James's, 
 and vulgarly called Pall Mall." The name, however, occurs much earlier ; for King 
 James I., in his JBasilicon Doron, recommends "Palle Malle" as a field-game for the 
 use of his eldest son, Prince Henry ; proving the Mall in the present street to have 
 existed as early as the reign of the above King. In a crown survey, referred to by 
 Mr. Cunningham, we find "Pell Mell Close," partly planted with apple-trees (Appletree- 
 yard, St. James's-square, still exists) : and in the above document are also named 140 
 elm-trees, standing on both sides of Pall Mall walk ; Faithorne's plan, 1658, shows 
 a row of trees on the north side ; and the name of Pall Mall, as a street, occurs in the 
 rate-books of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields under the year 1656. The name is derived 
 from Pallet, a ball ; and Maglia, a mallet ; the implements with which the game was 
 played. In 1854 were found in the roof of the house of Mr. B. L. Vulliamy, No. 68, 
 Pall Mall, a box containing four pairs of the niailes, or mallets, and one ball, such as 
 were formerly used for playing the game upon the site of the above house. Each 
 maile is 4 feet in length, and is made of lance-wood ; the head is slightly curved, and 
 measures outwardly 5^- inches, the inner curve being 4^ inches, the diameter of the 
 maile-ends is Z\ inches, each shod with a thin iron hoop : the handle, which is very 
 elastic, is bound with white leather to the breadth of two hands, and terminated with 
 a collar of jagged leather. The ball, is of box wood, 2^ inches in diameter. A pair 
 of mailes and a ball are now in the British Museum. Mr. Vulliamy was born in the 
 above house, and died here in January, 1854, aged 74 years ; and here his family lived 
 before him for 130 years, thus carrying us beyond the date of Pepys seeing Faille 
 Maille first played. The Vulliamys were clockmakers to the Sovereign in five reigns. 
 B. L. Vulliamy, the scientific horologist, who died as above, bequeathed his large and 
 very valuable collection of works on Horology to the Institution of Civil Engineers. 
 At the house of his very old friend, Mr. Vulliamy, died Professor Rigaud, the astro- 
 comer, March 16, 1839. 
 
 In the reign of Charles II. Pall Mall was occasionally called Catharine-street. 
 Faithorne's Plan, 1658, shows a row of trees on the north side. Pepys mentions, in 
 1660, an old tavern, " Wood's at the Pell Mell." In 1662 was fought here the duel 
 between Mr. Jermyn and Capt. Thomas Howard, the latter wearing mail under his 
 dress. The London Gazette of 1685 has an advertisement address, " the Sugar-loaf in 
 the Pall Mall." Dr. Sydenham died here, in 1689, at his house next The Golden 
 Pestle and Mortar; which sign remained to our day, on the north side of the street. 
 Another olden sign, The Golden Ball, lasted to our time; but The Golden Door and 
 The Barter's Pole disappeared. Of Sydenham's residence here, Cunningham relates 
 an anecdote told by Mr. Fox to Mr. Rogers that Sydenham was sitting at his window, 
 looking on the Mall, with his pipe in his mouth, and a silver tankard before him, when 
 a fellow made a snatch at the tankard and ran off with it. Nor was he overtaken 
 (said Fox) before he got among the bushes in Bond-street, where they lost him. 
 
 At the corner of St. Alban's-street lived Gilray, the caricaturist, when assistant to
 
 PALL MALL. 637 
 
 Holland, the printseller. In a house opposite Market-lane, the " Royal Academy of 
 Art" met, from the time of their obtaining the patronage of George III. until their 
 removal to Somerset House, in 1771. 
 
 Among the coffee-houses of Pall Mall was the Smyrna, of the days of the Tatler and. 
 Spectator ; where subscriptions were taken in by Thomson for publishing his Seasons, 
 &c. At the Star and Garter Tavern, at a meeting of the Nottinghamshire Club, 
 Jan. 26, 1765, arose the dispute between Lord Byron and his relation and neighbour 
 Mr, Chaworth, as to which had the most game on his estates : they fought with swords 
 across the dining-table, by the light of one tallow candle, when Mr. Chaworth was run 
 through the body, anddied next day. Lord Byron was tried before his peers in Westminster 
 Hall, and found guilty of manslaughter ; but claiming the benefit of the statute of 
 Edward VI., he was discharged on payment of his fees. In the same house (the Star 
 and Garter), Winsor made his gas-lighting experiments ; he lighted the street wall in 
 1807. (See GAS-LIGHTING, p. 371.) In the old Star and Garter house was exhibited, 
 in 1815, the Waterloo Museum of portraits, battle-scenes, and arms. At the Queen's 
 Arms Tavern, Lord Mohun supped with his second on the two nights preceding his fatal 
 duel with the Duke of Hamilton, in Hyde Park. At the King's Arms met the Liberty 
 or Rump-steak Club of Peers, in opposition to Sir Robert Walpole. Almaclcs 
 Gaming Club was on the site of No. 50, and is described at page 240. 
 
 Nearly opposite the south-west corner of the Opera-house, " Thomas Thynne, Esq., 
 on Sunday (Feb. 12, 1681), was barbarously shot with a muskatoon in his coach, and 
 died next day." The instigator was Count Konigsmarck, in hopes of gaining Lady 
 Elizabeth Ogle, the rich heiress, to whom Thynne was either married or contracted. 
 Three of Thynne's ruffians were tried at the Old Bailey, found guilty, and hanged at 
 the spot whereon the murder was committed. Borosky, " who did the murther," was 
 hung in chains beyond Mile End Town : the Count was tried as an accessory, but was 
 acquitted. The assassination is sculptured upon Thynne's monument in Westminster 
 Abbey. Pall Mall had early its notable sights and amusements. In 1701 were shown 
 here models of William the Third's Palaces at Loo and Hundstaerdike, " brought over 
 by outlandish men," with Curiosities disposed of " on public raffling-days." In 1733, 
 " a holland smock, a cap, checked stockings, and laced shoes," were run for by four 
 women in the afternoon, in Pall Mall ; and one of its residents, the High Constable of 
 Westminster, gave a prize laced hat to be run for by five men, which created so much 
 riot and mischief that the magistrates " issued precepts to prevent future runs to the 
 very man most active in promoting them." Here lodged George Psalmanazer, when 
 he passed for an islander of Formosa, and invented a language which baffled the 
 philologists of Europe. Here lived Joseph Clark, the posture-master, celebrated for per- 
 sonating deformities : now deceiving, by feigned dislocated vertebrae, the great surgeon, 
 Moulins ; then perplexing a tailor's measure with counterfeit humps and high shoulders. 
 At the Chinese Gallery was exhibited, in 1825, " the Living Skeleton" (Anatomie 
 Vivante), Claude Ambroise Seurat, a native of Troyes, in Champagne, 28 years old. 
 His health was good, but his skin resembled parchment, and his ribs could be counted, 
 and handled like pieces of cane : he was shown nude, except about the loins ; the arm, 
 from the shoulder to the elbow, was like an ivory German flute ; the legs were straight, 
 and the feet well formed. (See Hone's Every-day Book.) At No. 59, Salter spent 
 five years in painting his great picture of the Waterloo Banquet at Apsley House, 
 engraved for Alderman Moon. At No. 121, Campanari exhibited his Etruscan and 
 Greek Antiquities, in rooms fitted up as the Chambers of Tombs. In apartments at 
 No. 120, Captain Marryat wrote his Poor Jack. 
 
 Nell Gwyn lived in 1670, "on the east end, north side;" and from 1671 to her 
 death, in 1687, in a house on the south side, with a garden towards the Park; and 
 it was upon a mount in this garden that " the impudent comedian " stood, to hold 
 her familiar discourse with Charles II., who stood " on y e green walk " under the 
 wall. The scene, as described by Evelyn, has been cleverly painted by Mr. E. M. 
 Ward, R.A. The site of Nell's house is now occupied by No. 79, Society for the 
 Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts. 
 
 " Nelly at first had only a lease of the -house, which as soon as she discovered, she returned the con- 
 veyance to the King, with a remark characteristic of her wit, and of the monarch to whom it was ad-
 
 638 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 dressed. The King enjoyed the joke, and perhaps admitted its truth ; so the house in Pall Mall was 
 conveyed free to Nell and her representatives for ever. The truth of the story is confirmed by the 
 fact, that the house which occupies the site of the one in which she lived, now No. 79, is the only free- 
 hold on the south or Park side of Pall Mall." (Cunning-ham's Nell Otcyn, p. 115.) Mr. Cunningham 
 adds : " No entry of the grant is to be found in the Land Revenue Record Office." 
 
 A relic of Nell Gwyn, her looking-glass, is preserved in the Visitors' Dining-room of the Army and 
 Navy Club-house, in" Pall Mall. The glass was bought with Lord De Mauley's house, which was 
 taken down for the Club-house site. 
 
 Eastward of Nell Gwyn's lived Sir William Temple, and the Hon. Robert Boyle, and 
 Bubb Dodington; and on the south side, Doctor Barrow, and Lady Southesk, the 
 celebrated Countess of De Grammont's Memoirs. In Marlborough House lived the 
 great Duke of Marborough (see p. 552) ; and in a house in front of the mansion 
 Sir Robert Walpole. Of Schomberg House, Nos. 81 and 82, built for the great Duke 
 of Schomberg, the centre and the west wing remain. (See p. 449.) 
 
 Dr. Graham's " Goddess of Health," who figured here, was a lady named Prescott. 
 Mr. Cosway, R.A., the next tenant of Schomberg House, was the fashionable miniature- 
 painter of his day; and here his accomplished wife, Maria Cosway (also a painter), gave 
 her musical parties, the Prince of "Wales being a frequent visitor. Mrs. Cosway made 
 a pilgrimage to Loretto, which she had vowed to do if blessed with a living child. 
 (Notes and Queries, No. 147.) At Schomberg House was first concocted the dramatic 
 scheme of " The Beggars' Opera." 
 
 In the Mall, in 1689, resided " the Lady Griffin, who was seized for having treason- 
 able letters put into false bottoms of two large brandy-bottles, in the first year of his 
 majesty's reign." De Foe characterizes Pall Mall, in 1703, as " the ordinary residence 
 of all strangers, because of its vicinity to the Queen's palace, the Park, the Parliament- 
 house, the theatres, and the chocolate and coffee houses, where the best company fre- 
 quent." Gay thus celebrates the modish street in his time : 
 
 " hear me to the paths of fair Pall Mall ! 
 Safe are thy pavements, grateful is thy smell ! 
 At distance rolls the gilded coach, 
 Nor sturdy carmen on thy walks encroach ; 
 No lets would bar thy ways were chairs deny'd, 
 The soft supports of laziness and pride; 
 Shops breathe perfumes, through sashes ribbons glow, 
 The mutual arms of ladies and the beau." Trieia, book ii. 
 
 Strype describes Pall Mall as " a fine long street," with garden-houses on the 
 south side, many with raised mounts, and prospects of the King's garden and St. 
 James's Park. In gay bachelor's chambers in Pall Mall lived Beau Fielding, Steele's 
 " Orlando the Fair ;" here he was married to a supposed lady of fortune, brought to 
 him in a mourning-coach and widow's weeds, which led to his trial for bigamy. Field- 
 ing's namesake places Nightingale and Tom Jones in Pall Mall, when they leave the 
 lodgings of Mrs. Miller in Bond-street. Lffititia Pilkington, for a short time, kept 
 here a pamphlet and print shop. At the sign of " Tully's Head," Robert Dodsley, 
 formerly a footman, with the profits of a volume of his poems and a comedy (published 
 through the kindness of Pope), opened a shop in 1735 ; and here he published his 
 Annual Register, Economy of Human Life, and Sterne's Tristram Shandy. Dodsley 
 retired in 1759 ; but his brother James, his partner, continued the business until his 
 death in 1797 ; he is buried in St. James's Church, Piccadilly. " Tully's Head " was 
 the resort of Pope, Chesterfield, Lyttleton, Shenstone, Johnson, and Glover ; Horace 
 Walpole, the Wartons, and Edmund Burke. Walpole writes of 1786, a period when 
 robberies in capitals appear to have been a sort of fashion " on Jan. 7, half an hour 
 after eight, the mail from France was robbed in fall Mall yes, in the great thorough- 
 fare of London, and within call of the guard at the palace. The chaise had stopped, 
 the harness was cut, and the portmanteau was taken out of the chaise itself. What 
 think you of banditti in the heart of such a capital ?" 
 
 At No. 90 died, in 1849, Mr. W. J. Denison, in his 80th year, bequeathing 2| mil- 
 lions sterling : he sat in Parliament 31 years for Surrey. No. 91, Buckingham House, 
 was built by Soane for the Marquis of Buckingham, 1790-4. At No. 100 lived Mr. 
 Angerstein, whose pictures were bought for the nation, and were shown here before 
 their removal to the National Gallery ; and at No. 50 died Mr. Robert Vernon, who
 
 CHANGES. i( 
 
 OF THE FLIGHT OF A 
 
 w of the English School, which were for a short 
 
 *>\S b. /fc* 
 
 __ I 7 ^ ell as the ShaJcspeare Gallery, for his pictures 
 
 * ^x* West, Reynolds, Northcote, and others, and 
 
 (By 3 Correspondent.) X 'eing engraved. In 1806 the gallery was pur- 
 
 l gentlemen, by whom was established here the 
 are important alterations going on in ? the works of Living Artists in the spring, and 
 ught Place, by Marble Arch, just now. ; exhibited West's large picture (9 ft. by 14 ft.) 
 eat house with the Tuscan portico, which l g > bought by the British Institution for 3000 
 ivn as No. 13, and which as at the bottom Gallery. Upon the house-front is a large bas- 
 cul-de sac entered fi'om the Edgware- J and Pa i ntin ?> for which Alderman Boydell 
 
 is, together with its neighbour. No. 14, 
 entirely gutted, with the idea that it shall 
 
 ned into elaborate flats. The backs of i i_u. * ru 1^1 * v i i A i_ * 
 
 ly built for Edward Duke of York, brother of 
 
 :wo houses are in Stanhope Place, where 
 entrance will be made. They have been 
 a very long time. At No. 13 the Duke 
 thumberland once lived. The house at 
 arble Arch end of this row of stately 
 ns has foi? some time been the head office 
 ill-known firm of aerated water manufac- 
 It looks rather like a beginning of 
 1 at both extremities. 
 
 and in the hall is Banks's colossal Mourning 
 :oic beauty. No. 53 is the House of the New 
 
 ascription Club-house, called the Albion Hotel; 
 iion in Pall Mall, which had its " houses for 
 t-yard of the War Office is the bronze statue of 
 te for War : sculptor, Foley, R.A. ; erected by 
 ?ee STATUES.) After the removal of Carlton 
 ent splendid club-houses in Pall Mall was com- 
 nd the Athenaeum. (See CLUB HOUSES, pp. 241 
 Warwick House, whence the Princess Charlotte, 
 the house of her mother, as vividly described 
 
 , , <, Review. In Warwick-street is a public-house 
 irs of London JiaAe always found a . ,, , ttxM^g^n 
 
 r fascination in Connaught Place, partly, " 1>ecalli "g the sedans of Pal1 Mal1 : 
 s, because of its age and the great size s arrogance can quell, 
 
 ... ,* - - '- "^ coonoa AT Pall Mnll 
 
 houses, with their 
 
 and quaint old iron- work andrisitsofthedame." Gay's Trivia, book UL 
 But there is more than t*iis. for; ng the great sewer of Pall Mall, the fossil teeth 
 scene of that they are pres erved in the Museum of the Society 
 escapade of the lovable Princess Char- 
 when she fled from Warwick House and 
 
 ath of the Prince Regent to the house of side of Cockspur-street, contains the University 
 
 jther, the Princess of Wales, who then the College of Physicians, described at p. 277. 
 
 n Connaught Place, separated from the, n statue of George III. (see STATUES). At 
 
 the flight caused e exhibited, in 1831, the exquisite water-colour 
 
 The Princess )r Loc i ge ' s Portraits of Illustrious Personages, 
 
 Vandyke, Mark Gerard, Zucchero, Jansen, Retel, 
 
 ck House, a small buildmc; standing in ; , ' ,, , r . , r ,. ' , , ^. ,, 
 byard of its own at the endof Warwick- J'' Ant More, Mytens, Kneller Reynold^ Dahl, 
 Mng out of Cockspur-street. It was de P^ntoxa, Mirevelt, and P. Oliver. No. 5 i 
 I only by a low wall from the gardens ' lters m Water-colours. At No. 1, Dorset-place, 
 Iton House, and has long since disap- ionist and dramatic lecturer, who late in life left 
 The Princess, determined not to leave ts of literature. He was worthily characterized 
 0, had just definitely broken off her and honest; perhaps the only acting democrat 
 iinent with the hereditary Prince of -street and Charing Cross was formerly Hedge- 
 
 ys of Charles I. a lane through the fields, and 
 ; 14, n in Suffolk-street, on January 30, 1735, sprung 
 
 5 infuriated Regent suddenly appeared the Calves > Head Club , see p- 573 x 
 the Bishop of Salisbury, at Warwick 
 arid announced to his daughter that all . 
 
 temlants would be turned out that .eve:!- ' OXFORD- STREET, 
 
 id be replaced by strangers. The imme- ie left from St. Giles's, was originally built by 
 
 result was that the Princess slapped a enades, and was opened January 27, 1772, when 
 
 , on her head, ran into the street, hailed pre sent. It contained fourteen rooms, exclusive 
 
 .'hanng Cross, and drove e colonnades, ornamented with Grecian reliefs ; 
 
 r were statues of the heathen deities, Britannia, 
 
 ld le. Walpole described it as "the new winter 
 and hours of persuasions, entreaties, ,, JT* , .,, ... , . . , , 
 
 sfusals, until, at two in the morning, the all antlco > and Wlth ceilin 8 and P anels P amted 
 i. ^kicking and bouncing" (according
 
 luiisKuu^u <ia <l plLJUillll Contrast LO I 
 
 ow tones of the faces and r;i 
 The characterisation ij 
 
 h P. 60 ? 16 
 
 expression as though the 
 fortably conscious of sitting for tl 
 
 dressed. The King enjoyed the joke, and perhaps admitted itt ra jt, 
 
 conveyed free to Nell and her representatives for ever. The ", 
 
 fact, that the house which occupies the site of the one in which" 1 
 
 hold on the south or Park side of Pall Mall." (Cunningham's John, V 
 
 adds : " No entry of the grant is to be found in the Land Reveni n com m on . But th is very 
 A relic of Nell Gwvn, her looking-glass, is preserved in the 
 
 Navy Club-house, in" Pall Mall. The glass was bought with m 
 
 taken down for the Club-house site. 
 
 up of his pictures. For sheer beauty 
 Eastward of Nell Gwyn's lived Sir William Temple, nothing in this exhibition can come t 
 
 Bubb Dodington; and on the south side, Doctor I" George and Albert " >(No. 40 )". 
 
 celebrated Countess of De Grammont's Memoirs. "Aryes " (No. 15) and "Betsy Aryes " 
 
 great Duke of Marborough (see p. 552); and in recall Frans Hals in freshness and 
 -1 / Sir Robert Walpole. Of Schomberg House, Nos. 81 e:x P re 
 
 of Schomberg, the centre and the west wing remain. 
 [ * Dr. Graham's " Goddess of Health," who figured 
 
 Mr. Cosway, R.A., the next tenant of Schomberg Hou T STER G A LLI 
 
 painter of his day ; and here his accomplished wife, 3 
 
 her musical parties, the Prince of Wales being a fre 
 
 a pilgrimage to Loretto, which she had vowed to 
 (Notes and Queries, No. 147.) At Schomberg Hou 
 
 Mr. Oliver Hall and Mr. Ambrose 
 
 are strange stable-companions at the ] 
 
 scheme of "The Beggars' Opera." Galleries. Fortunately each of them t 
 
 In the Mall, in 1689, resided " the Lady Griffin, " away in his own stall, with a divid 
 able letters put into false bottoms of two large brar between them, so that there is no dai 
 majesty's reign." De Foe characterizes Pall Mall, in clash. Mr. Hall's landscapes should 
 of all strangers, because of its vicinity to the Queen's before Mr. McEvoy's portrait studie< 
 house, the theatres, and the chocolate and coffee boi coloup _ and th " flhould bc exa 
 quent." Gay thus celebrates the modish street in hi one by one> for>j ag a complete group 
 
 -O bear me to the paths of fair Pall depressingly monotonous that the 
 Safe are thy pavements, grateful is ? el 
 
 At distance rolls the gilded coach, nspectkm which they so fully deervi 
 Nor sturdy carmen on thy walks enc, ne w ho has had occasion to'protec 
 No lets would bar thy ways were ch 
 The soft supports of laziness and pr a 
 
 Shops breathe perfumes, through samoked glass spectacles must have exn 
 The mutual arms of ladies and the how, at . t h e first moment', all colour 
 
 o. , M T> n TIT 11 i lave Sone out, of tlie landscape un+'l 
 
 Strype describes Pall Mall as a fine long stre ? . eks accustomed to th 
 
 south side many with raised mounts and pro S pec iegins to d : sti jsh th ^ ed 
 
 James's Park. In gay bachelor's chambers m Pall Chough they are modified 
 
 "Orlando the Fair;" here he was married to a sup^trength. Mr. Hall sees the 
 
 him in a mourning-coach and widow's weeds, which smoked glass, and to the first sla 
 
 ing's namesake places Nightingale and Tom Jones :ures yield nothing but the 
 
 lodgings of Mrs. Miller in Bond-street. La3titia Ibrowns. After a while the greei 
 
 here a pamphlet and print shop. At the sign of *nd other notes disclose them 
 
 formerly a footman, with the profits of a volume of their exquzsiteness and delicate t 
 
 through the kindness of Pope), opened a shop in* 1 ^ ^ ne picture ce.ases to be clingy -or i 
 
 Annual Register, Economy of Human Life, and StA?' 
 
 retired in 1759 ; but his brother James, his partner 5 ?! 
 
 death in 1797; he is buried in St. James's Church ,J"* 
 
 the resort of Pope, Chesterfield, Lyttleton, Shenst<| 
 
 Walpole, the Wartons, and Edmund Burke. Walp^J 
 
 robberies in capitals appear to have been a sort of n< 
 
 after eight, the mail from France teas rolled in Pal^ 
 
 fare of London, and within call of the guard at tht O o ron 
 
 the harness was cut, and the portmanteau was takejSS of ib? 
 
 think you of banditti in the heart of such a capital Ping sureness of H^,,^,. 
 
 At No. 90 died, in 1849, Mr. W. J. Denison, in Ithen Mr. Hall carrie th 
 lions sterling: he sat in Parliament 31 years for Suinto the skv and g ; ves h 
 was built by Soane for the Marquis of Buckingham an ce of solid rocks. 
 A ngerstein, whose pictures were bought for the nil The first thing that strikes o 
 their removal to the National Gallery; and at No. McEvov '> water-colours 
 
 room is that artist's incredible faoilHv 
 lower of saving all that * eLnt K
 
 PANTHEON, OXFORD-STREET. 
 
 bequeathed to the country his pictures of the English School, which were for a short 
 time exhibited here. 
 
 No. 50 was built by Alderman Boydell as the Shakspeare Gallery, for his pictures 
 illustrative of Shakspeare, painted by West, Reynolds, Northcote, and others, and 
 which were dispersed by lottery after being engraved. In 1806 the gallery was pur- 
 chased by a committee of noblemen and gentlemen, by whom was established here the 
 British Institution, for the exhibition of the works of Living Artists in the spring, and 
 Old Masters in the autumn. Here was exhibited West's large picture (9 ft. by 14 ft.) - 
 of Christ healing the Sick in the Temple ; bought by the British Institution for 3000 , 
 guineas, and presented to the National Gallery. Upon the house-front is a large bas- 
 relief of Shakspeare attended by Poetry and Painting, for which Alderman Boydell 
 paid Banks, the sculptor, 500 guineas ; and in the hall is Banks's colossal Mourning 
 Achilles, a noble work of pathos and heroic beauty. No. 53 is the House of the New 
 Society of Painters in Water-colours. 
 
 ( i No. 86, the War Office, was originally built for Edward Duke of York, brother of 
 M George III., and was subsequently a Subscription Club-house, called the Albion Hotel; 
 this being the first modern club-mansion in Pall Mall, which had its " houses for 
 clubbing" in Pepys's time. In the court-yard of the War Office is the bronze statue of 
 Lord Herbert of Lea, Secretary of State for War : sculptor, Foley, R.A. ; erected by 
 public subscription, June 1, 1,867. (See STATUES.) After the removal of Carlton 
 House, in 1827, the erection of the present splendid club-houses in Pall Mall was com- 
 menced with the Senior United Service and the Athenaeum. (See CLUB HOUSES, pp. 241 
 and 258.) Near Warwick-street stood Warwick House, whence the Princess Charlotte, 
 in 1814, escaped in a hackney-coach to the house of her mother, as vividly described 
 by Lord Brougham in the Edinburgh Review. In Warwick-street is a public-house 
 with the old sign of The Two Chairmen, recalling the sedans of Pall Mall : 
 
 " Who the footman's arrogance can quell, 
 Whose flambeau gilds the sashes of Pall Mall, 
 When in long rank a train of torches flame, 
 To light the midnight visits of the dame.'^Gay's Trivia, book iii. 
 
 Here, in 1731, were found, in digging the great sewer of Pall Mall, the fossil teeth 
 of an elephant, 28 feet underground : they are preserved in the Museum of the Society 
 of Antiquaries, Somerset House. 
 
 PALL MALL EAST, on the north side of Cockspur-street, contains the University 
 Club-house, described at p. 259 ; and the College of Physicians, described at p. 277. 
 Here also is M. C. Wyatt's equestrian statue of George III. (see STATUES). At 
 No. 4 (Harding, Lepard, and Co.) were exhibited, in 1831, the exquisite water-colour 
 copies made by Hilton and Derby for Lodge's Portraits of Illustrious Personages, 
 from pictures by Titian, Holbein, Vandyke, Mark Gerard, Zucchero, Jansen, Retel,. 
 Walker, Van Somer, Honthorst, Lely, Ant. More, Mytens, Kneller, Reynolds, Dahl, 
 Jarvis, "Riley, Rubens, Fleck, Juan de Pantoxa, Mirevelt, and P. Oliver. No. 5 is- 
 the Gallery of the Society of Painters in Water-colours. At No. 1, Dorset-place, 
 lived John Thelwall, the classic elocutionist and dramatic lecturer, who late in life left 
 political agitation for the calm pursuits of literature. He was worthily characterized 
 by Coleridge as " intrepid, eloquent, and honest ; perhaps the only acting democrat 
 that is honest." Between Whitcomb-street and Charing Cross was formerly Hedge- 
 lane, 300 yards in length ; in the days of Charles I. a lane through the fields, and 
 bordered with hedges. At a low tavern in Suffolk-street, on January 30, 1735, sprung 
 the drunken frolic, out of which arose " the Calves' Head Club" (see p. 573). 
 
 PANTHEON, OXFORD- STREET, 
 
 ABOUT one-third of a mile on the left from St. Giles's, was originally built by 
 James Wyatt for musical promenades, and was opened January 27, 1772, when 
 2000 persons of rank and fashion were present. It contained fourteen rooms, exclusive 
 of the rotunda : the latter had double colonnades, ornamented with Grecian reliefs ; 
 and in niches at the base of the dome were statues of the heathen deities, Britannia, 
 and George III. and Queen Charlotte. Walpole described it as " the new winter 
 Ranelagh," with pillars of artificial giallo antico, and with ceilings and panels painted
 
 640 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 from Raphael's loggias in the Vatican. In the first winter here were assemblies with- 
 out music or dancing ; and the building was exhibited at 5s. each person ! In 1783, 
 Delpini, the clown, got up a masquerade here, to celebrate the Prince of Wales's attain- 
 ing his majority ; tickets three guineas each. Next year Garrick was present at a 
 masquerade here as King of the Gipsies. Gibbon was also a frequenter of its gay 
 bachelors' masque fetes. In 1784, also, the " Commemoration of Handel" was per- 
 formed here, when the King, Queen, and Royal Family were present. The Pantheou 
 was next converted into a theatre for the Italian Opera company in 1791, the or- 
 chestra including Giardini, La Motte, Cramer, Fischer, Crosdil, and Cervetto. 
 
 The Pantheon was burnt down January 14, 1792 : Turner painted the conflagra- 
 tion, which he exhibited at the Royal Academy two years after he became an exhibitor. 
 The loss by the fire was stated at 80,00(M. The Pantheon was rebuilt in 1795, 
 | Wyatt's entrance-front in Oxford-street and in Poland-street being retained. It was 
 then let as a theatre, and for exhibitions, lectures, and music. The theatre was re- 
 constructed in 1812, when Miss Stephens (subsequently Countess of Essex), first ap- 
 peared in London here as a concert-singer ; and first appeared on the stage, at Covent 
 Garden Theatre, in 1813. In 1814 a patent was sought from Parliament to open the 
 Pantheon with the regular drama ; but the application failed. In 1832 the property 
 was sold for 16,OOOZ. : the premises are freehold, except the Oxford-street front, which 
 is leasehold. In 1835 the premises were remodelled by Sydney Smirke, A.R.A., and 
 opened as a Bazaar. (See p. 41.) The building was, in 1867, closed, to be converted 
 into a Wine Dep&t. Spa Fields Chapel, in Clerkenwell, was originally built in 
 imitation of the West-end Pantheon. 
 
 PANCRAS, ST., 
 
 /^\RIGINALLY a solitary village "in the fields," north of London, and one mile from 
 *J Holborn Bars, is the most extensive parish in Middlesex, being 18 miles in circum- 
 ference. It is a prebendal manor, and was included in the land granted by Ethelbert 
 to St. Paul's Cathedral about 603 ; it was a parish before the Conquest, and is called 
 St. Pancras in Domesday. The history of its church, which Norden thought " not to 
 yield in antiquitie to Paules in London," is narrated at pp. 193-4. The prebendary of 
 St. Pancras was anciently confessor to the Bishop of London : in the list are Lancelot 
 Andrewes, Bishop of Winchester ; Dr. Sherlock, and Archdeacon Paley. Lysons sup- 
 poses it to have included the prebendal manor of Kentish Town, or Cantelows,* which 
 now constitutes a stall in St. Paul's Cathedral. The church has about 70 acres of 
 land attached to it, which were demised in 1641 at 101. reserved rent ; and being 
 subsequently leased to Mr. William Agar, are now the site of Agar Town. In Domes- 
 day, Walter, a canon of St. Paul's, holds one hide at Pancras, which is supposed to 
 form the freehold estate of Lord Sotners, on which Somers Town is built. 
 
 St. Pancras' parish contained, in 1251, only 40 houses; in 1503 the church stood 
 " all alone," and in 1745 only 3 houses had been built near it. In 1766 the population 
 was not 600 ; in 1801, 36,000 ; 
 
 Houses. Inhabitants. 
 
 1821 9,405 71,838 
 
 1841 15,658 129,969 
 
 1851 18,584 166,596 
 
 1861 21,928 198,882 
 
 A return shows that the single parish of St. Pancras was assessed in 1862, to the pro- 
 perty tax under Schedule A, the schedule for the annual value of land (including the 
 houses built upon it, the railways, &c.), at 3,798,521. This is the most populous pa- 
 rish in the metropolis : it includes one-third of the hamlet of Highgate, with the ham- 
 lets of Kentish-town, Battle-bridge, Camden Town, Somers Town, to the foot of 
 Gray's-Inn-lane : also part of a house in Queen-square " (Lysons), all Tottenham- 
 court-road, and the rtreets west of Cleveland-street and Rathbone-place. 
 
 Stukeley affirmed tLe site of the old church to have been occupied by a Roman 
 encampment (Caesar's), of which he has published a plan (Itinerarium Curiosum, 1758) ; 
 and the neighbouring Brill of Somers Town Stukeley traces to a contraction of Bury 
 
 * Anciently Kentesstoune, where William Bruges, Garter King-at-arms in the reign of Henry V., had 
 a country-house, at which he entertained the Emperor Sigismund.
 
 PARIS GARDEN. 641 
 
 or Burgh Hill, a Saxon name for a fortified place on an elevated site ; following Camden 
 in his illustration of the village of Brill in Buckinghamshire. 
 
 At Battle-bridge, in 1842, was discovered a Roman inscription attesting the great 
 battle between the Britons under Boadicea, and the Romans under Suetonius Paulinus, 
 to have been fought on this spot. 
 
 The inscription bears distinctly the letters LEO. xx. (the twentieth legion), one of the four which 
 came into Britain in the reign of Claudius ; and the vexillation of which was in the army of Suetonius 
 Paulinus, when he made that victorious stand in a fortified pass, with a forest hi his rear, against the 
 insurgent Britons. The position is described by Tacitus. On the high ground above Battle-bridge are 
 vestiges of Roman works ; and the tract of land to the north was formerly a forest. The veracity of the 
 following passage of the historian is therefore fully confirmed . "Deligitque locum artis faucibus, et a 
 tergo silva clausum ; satis cognito, nihil hostium nisi in fronte, et apertam planitiem ease sine metu 
 insidiarum." He further tells us, that the force of Suetonius was composed of " quartadecima legio, 
 cum VPxillariis vicesimanis, et e proximis auxiliares." ( Tacit. Annul, lib. xiv.) So that, almost to the 
 letter, the place of this memorable engagement seems, by the discovery of the above inscription to be 
 ascertained. 
 
 In Ben Jonson's play, the Tale of a Tub, the characters move about in the fields 
 near Pancridge (St. Pancras) ; Totten-court is a mansion in the fields ; a robbery is pre- 
 tended to be committed " in the ways over the country " between Kentish Town and 
 Hampstead Heath; and a warrant is granted by a " Marribone" justice. 
 
 St. Pancras had formerly its mineral springs, which were much resorted to. 
 Near the old churchyard, in the yard of a house, is the once celebrated St. Pancras' 
 Well, slightly cathartic. St. Chad's Well, in Gray's-Inn-road, has a similar property ; 
 and the Hampstead Wells and Walks were given in 1698 to trustees for the benefit of 
 the poor. The Hampstead Water was formerly sold in flasks in London. 
 
 In St. Pancras are the Termini of the two largest Railways in England : the North- 
 Western, Euston-square ; and the Great Northern at King's Cross, 45 acres. The name of 
 King's Cross dates from the accession of George IV., when the streets were commenced 
 building on the ground known as Battle-bridge, then in ill repute, and subsequently 
 changed to the royal designation. In a house in Montgomery's nursery-gardens, the 
 site of the north side of Euston-square, lived Dr. Wolcot (Peter Pindar), the satirist. 
 
 The vicarage was valued at 281. in 1650 ; it is rated in the King's books at 91. ; and 
 at this time is stated at 1700Z. St. Pancras Churches, Old and New, are described at 
 pp. 193-194. Under the belfry of the old church was interred privately, in a grave 
 14 feet deep, the body of Earl Ferrers, executed at Tyburn in 1760. 
 
 The Cemetery for St. Pancras, 87 acres (being the first extra-mural burial-ground 
 for the metropolis, by Act 15 and 16 Victoria, cap. 85), was commenced in 1853, on 
 " Horse-shoe Farm," in the Finchley-road, about 4J miles from St. Pancras Work- 
 house, and 2 miles from the extreme northern boundary of the parish. St. Pancras 
 Workhouse often contains upwards of 1200 persons, equal to the population of a large 
 village. The excellent Female Charity School in the Hampstead-road dates from 1776. 
 
 In the northern part of the parish, between Kentish Town and Haverstock Hill, is Gospel Oak Field, 
 traditionally said to be the spot where the Gospel was first preached in this kingdom ; the site is inclosed 
 by a wooden railing containing the boundary stone of St. Pancras and the adjoining parish of St. John's, 
 Hampstead. When Wickliffe attended the citation at St. Paul's Cathedral, he is said to have frequently 
 preached under this tree; at the Reformation, from under its branches were promulgated the doc- 
 trines of Protestantism; and here Whitefield preached nearly three centuries later. Some thirty years 
 after, the tree died ; and when a young tree was planted in its place, it as often was killed. However, 
 the site was marked; and within memory, it was the practice, when beating the bounds of the parish, to 
 regale the children, when the Vicar of the parish attended, and offered up prayer. There are seven 
 churches of St. Pancras in England, another in France, another in Giessen in Hesse Darmstadt ; another, 
 indeed many, in Italy, one celebrated church in Rome itself. See The Life and Times of St. Pancrat. 
 By Edward White. 2nd edit. 1856. 
 
 Although the Midland Railway has cut through Gospel Oak Field, here are edifices 
 in keeping with the ancient religious associations of the place. Here is St. Martin's, 
 a carefully finished specimen of the Third Pointed, or Perpendicular style ; St. Andrew's, 
 in the First Pointed, and somewhat Byzantine ; a Congregational Chapel, of some archi- 
 tectural character ; and a large Roman Catholic Convent. Here, too, is the Birkbeck 
 School, built in place of the School removed for the Railway. 
 
 PARIS GARDEN, 
 
 A PORTION of the manor of that name on the Bankside, and so called from Robert de 
 -! Paris, who had a house and grounds there, in the reign of Richard II., and " who,
 
 642 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 by proclamation ordained that the butchers of London should buy that garden for re- 
 ceipt of the garbage and entrails of beasts ; to the end the City might not be annoyed 
 thereby." Blount's Glossographia, edit. 1681. 
 
 This manor was given to the monastery of Bermondsey in 1113, and Robert de 
 Paris must have been a lessee under the Abbot of Bermondsey. In 1537, the manor 
 was conveyed to Henry VIII. j and Queen Elizabeth, in the twentieth year of her 
 reign, granted the manor in exchange, to Henry Carey, Lord Hunsdon. It was sub- 
 sequently held by Thomas Cure, saddler to the Queen, and founder of the Aknshouses 
 in Southwark which bear his name ; and lastly by Richard Taverner and William 
 Angell, citizens. The moated manor-house was called Holland's Leaguer, from 
 Shakerly Marmion's satirical tract on this house and its inmates, entitled " Holland's 
 Leaguer, or a Discourse on the life and actions of Donna Brittannia Hollandia, the 
 Arch-mistress of the wicked Women of Utopia " (4to, 1632). It had succeeded the 
 stews of Bankside as a public brothel, and in the reigns of James I. and Charles I. 
 was a fashionable resort. A rude wood-cut of the house, with a draw-bridge crossing 
 the moat, is prefixed to the tract. The site of the house and garden is partly occupied 
 by the present Holland street, and Pellatt's Glass-house occupies part of the site of 
 the Falcon theatre, and is named therefrom. In 1670, the manor of Paris Garden was 
 constituted the parish of Christchurch, and a church built thereon, rebuilt 1738. In 
 1867, the Metropolitan Board of Works took a portion of the manor, for which they 
 paid 500?. Paris Garden had its theatre, to be described under THEATEES. 
 
 " There is, or used to be, a ditch or dyke running across Great Surrey-street, Blaekfriars-road, but for 
 some few years past it has been covered or built upon. All buildings thereon are subject to a ground- 
 rent, payable to the Steward of the Manor of ' Old Paris Garden,' and collected half-yearly." Notei and 
 Queries, No. 265, 1854. 
 
 PARKS. 
 
 THE Parks have been well denominated by an amiable statesman ( Windham), " the 
 lungs of London ;" for they are essential to the healthful respiration of its inha- 
 bitants. There are fourteen Royal Parks and Pleasure-grounds in or about London ; the 
 parks being those of Battersea, Bushy, Greenwich, Hampton Court, Kennington, 
 Kensington, Regent's, Richmond, St. James's, Green, Hyde, and Victoria; and the 
 pleasure-grounds of Hampton Court and Kew. The grounds of the Hospital and 
 Military Asylum at Chelsea, with Holyrood Park and Longford River, are also included 
 under the above heading, the total estimate of charges connected with which amounts, 
 for the financial year 1867-8, to 125,326?. Of this sum, 5095?. are paid to the 
 Ranger's departments of Greenwich, Richmond, St. James's, Green, and Hyde Parks ; 
 the grounds of the Hospital and Military Asylum at Chelsea costing 17047. The 
 income derived from the Royal Parks is about 5000?. per annum, and is paid to the 
 Consolidated Fund. 
 
 ALBEET, or FINSBTJEY PABK, equidistant from Regent and Victoria Parks, is to 
 commence at Highbury Crescent, passing along the right side of Holloway and Hornsey 
 roads to the Seven Sisters'-road, and including all the space of fields to the west of 
 Newington Green ; afterwards inclining towards the New River, which it is proposed to 
 cross north of the Horse-shoe, excluding the Junction Railway, and extending to the 
 bottom of Highbury Grove, completing the enclosure of 300 acres. 
 
 BATTEESEA PAEK consisted, prior to its formation, of small Lammas Lands, in lieu of 
 which a Lammas Hall has been erected in Battersea. In 1846, its conversion into a 
 park was decided by Act of Parliament. Before it was fit even to walk upon it was 
 necessary to raise the entire surface. Fortunately, about this time the London Docks 
 (Victoria) Extension were commenced. It was requisite to excavate and remove 
 thence to a distance immense quantities of earth, which were gladly received at 
 Battersea-fields ; and from this and other sources not less than 1,000,000 cubic yards 
 of earth have been deposited on this site. This occupied several years, and the actual 
 formation of the park could not be commenced till 1856 : the drives, walks, and orna- 
 mental lake were then laid out and formed; the planting began in 1857. Large 
 quantities of earth were deposited and formed into undulating mounds and banks, and
 
 PARKS. 643 
 
 several acres were thus reclaimed along the banks of the river. These deposits of earth 
 were well adapted to the growth of trees and shrubs, which consist of the choicest kinds 
 of both, and this park contains one of the richest collections in or near London. About 
 200 acres are here appropriated to ornamental and recreative purposes viz., grass 
 surface, 100 acres; water, 20; and shrubberies, plantations, drives, and walks, 80. 
 About 34 acres have been prepared for cricket, in match-grounds and practice-ground 
 for schools, and for organized clubs. Other large open spaces are used for the drill 
 and exercises of the troops stationed at Chelsea New Barracks, as also of various 
 Volunteer corps, and the district Police. Portions are set apart for trap-ball, rounders, 
 and other games; and when the cricket season terminates football is commenced. 
 The lake is an artificial one, and is fed partly from the river Thames and partly by a 
 steam-engine, fixed for the purpose of supplying the park with water for the lodges, 
 drinking fountains, roads, flower-beds, &c. The depth of the water is too shallow for 
 bathing, being only 2^ feet deep. The lake, however, is extensively used for boating. 
 The peninsula, comprising an area of 5J acres, is laid out in the English landscape 
 style, combining a series of mounds with gentle slopes, between which are pic- 
 turesque vistas. Nearly at its centre there is a reservoir, which is excavated below 
 the level of the neighbouring springs. The water from this self-supplied source is as 
 clear as crystal ; it is pumped into an elevated tank which holds 20,000 gallons, from 
 which arc laid service pipes for the supply of the park. A horse-ride has been formed 
 about 40ft. wide; and the South-eastern portion of the park is appropriated as a 
 gymnasium and playground. 
 
 Here is the Sub-Tropical Garden, nearly 4 acres in extent. Here is a bed of caladium esculentum, 
 from the West Indies, with big leaves not to be matched in England. Australian tree ferns throw out 
 their graceful leaves as luxuriantly as though they were still under glass. The India-rubber plant is 
 growing in great profusion. So is the Banana and the curious Indian shot plant. Further on we come 
 to the variegated Croton, and the beautiful scarlet foliage of the Dragon's-blood tree from South America. 
 Here is a tropical plant, the Canna limbata, which bravely contends with the rigours of an English winter. 
 Among many others are the large-leaved tobacco plant; a new variety of the sugar-cane from Japan; 
 the coral tree, with its beautiful and suggestive flower; the Dracseua nutans, drooping, combined with 
 upright leaves; a Southern emblem, the Palmetto palm ; the Date palm; the Rice-paper plant of China; 
 the Papyrus plant of Egypt, and the veritable Bulrush of the Nile. In another part of the park is a 
 rosary, the soil of which is well suited to the production of the queen of the English garden. 
 
 CHELSEA HOSPITAL GROUNDS, on the northern bank of the Thames, have been relaid 
 out -. the surface has been raised on the south 4^ feet, and elsewhere from 10 to 24 feet, 
 in which work, some 100,000 cubic yards of stuffhave been deposited; an avenue of old 
 pollard lime-trees, planted some 150 years ago in the centre of the grounds, has been 
 removed by powerful machines, four or five tons of earth being taken with each tree ; and 
 the whole of the trees have been formed into two avenues, and the grounds planted with 
 flowering shrubs. A portion of the grounds occupying the site on which Ranelagh House 
 formerly stood is devoted to the private use of the inmates of the Hospital, and has been 
 re-formed and laid out. Here allotments are set apart for the pensioners, consisting of a 
 square rod each ; and they are so successfully cultivated by some of these men, that aa 
 much as 101. or 111. has been realized on one allotment. This is done chiefly by the 
 cultivation of the musk plant, of which two and three crops are obtained in a season, 
 and for which there is an easy sale to hawkers. 
 
 GREEN PARK, THE, 60 acres in extent, adjoins St. James's Park on the north, and 
 extends westward to Hyde Park Corner, the line of communication being by the fine 
 road Constitution Hill. It was formerly called Little St. James's Park, and was reduced 
 in 1767, by George III., to add to the gardens of Buckingham House. At the Peace 
 Commemoration, in 1814, here was erected a vast Temple of Concord, with allegorical 
 paintings and illuminations and fireworks. In 1840-41 the entire Park was drained, 
 and the surface relaid and planted; and the Deputy-Ranger's Lodge, towards the 
 north-west corner, was then taken down. At the north-east corner was formerly the 
 Chelsea Waterworks Reservoir, reconstructed in 1829, 44 feet above Trinity high- 
 water mark of the Thames, and containing 1,500,000 gallons. The Reservoir has 
 been filled up. This high ground commands fine views of the Norwood and Wimbledon 
 hills, !'iul of the roof of the Crystal Palace at Sydenham. 
 
 On the east side of the Park is a line of noble mansions, including Stafford House, 
 
 T T 2
 
 644 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Bridgewater House; and Spencer House, with its finial statues, commended by Sir 
 William Chambers. The gardens of the several houses are leased of the Crown. 
 
 Dr. King relates, that Charles II. having taken two or three turns one morning in St. James's Park, 
 attended only by the Duke of Leeds and Lord Cromarty, walked up Constitution Hill ; and as the king 
 was crossing the road into Hyde Park, met the Duke of York in his coach, returning from hunting. The 
 duke alighted to pay his respects to the king, and expressed his surprise to meet his majesty with such 
 a small attendance, adding that he thought the king exposed himself to some danger. " No kind of 
 danger, James ; for I am sure no man hi England will take away my life to make you king," was 
 Charles's reply. 
 
 In Constitution-hill-road, near the Palace, three diabolical attempts have been made 
 to shoot Queen Victoria : by a lunatic, named Oxford, June 10, 1840 ; by Francis, 
 another lunatic, May 30, 1842; and by an idiot, named Hamilton, May 19, 1849. On 
 June 29, 1850, at the upper end of the road, Sir Robert Peel was thrown from his 
 horse ; he died at his house in Whitehall Gardens, on July 2. 
 
 The Arch at the entrance of the road from Hyde Park Corner is a poor adaptation, 
 from the Arch of Titus at Rome, and was originally designed as an entrance to Buckingham 
 Palace Gardens. It bears the colossal equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington. 
 
 The Green Park has been greatly improved, from almost a bare field to a resort of 
 some picturesqueness and variety. A new horse-ride has been made, from Buckingham 
 Palace to Stable-yard Gate, St. James's. 
 
 HYDE PARK extends from Piccadilly westward to Kensington Gardens, and lies 
 between the great western and Bayswater roads. It is the site of the ancient manor 
 of Hyde, which belonged to the monastery of St. Peter, Westminster, until it was con- 
 veyed to Henry VIII. in 1536, soon after which a keeper of the park is mentioned. 
 In 1550 the French Ambassador hunted here; and in 1578 the Duke Casimir shot a 
 doe from amongst 300 other deer in Hyde Park. In 1652 the Park was sold by order 
 of Parliament, for 17,000.; the deer being valued, in addition, at 765Z. 6s. 2d. 
 The park then contained 620 acres, and extended eastward to Park-lane, and on the 
 west almost to the front of Kensington Palace : it is described in the indenture of sale 
 as "that impaled ground called Hyde Park;" but, with the exception of Tyburn 
 meadow, the enclosure for the deer, the old lodge at Hyde Park Corner, and the 
 Banqueting House, the park was left in a state of nature ; and De Grammont describes it 
 as a barn-field in the time of Charles II. Ben Jonson mentions its great spring show 
 of coaches; Brome names its races, horse and foot; and in Shu-ley's play of Hyde 
 Park, 1637, is the scene of a race in the park between an Irish and English footman. 
 After the sale by Parliament, tolls were levied. 
 
 " llth April, 1653. I went to take the aire in Hide Park, when every coach was made to pay a 
 shilling, and every horse sixpence, by the sordid fellow (Anthony Deane, of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, 
 Esq.) who had purchas'd it of the State, as they were call'd." Evelyn. 
 
 The park does not appear to have been thrown open to the public until the time of 
 Charles I., and then not indiscriminately. 
 
 In the Character of England, 1659, it is described as " a field near the town, which they call Hyde 
 Park ; the place not unpleasant, and which they use as our course ; but with nothing of that order, 
 equipage, and splendour; being such an assembly of wretched jades and hackney-coaches, as, next a 
 regiment of carrmen, there is nothing approaches the resemblance. This parke was, it seems, used by 
 the late king and nobility for the freshness of the air and the goodly prospect; but it is that which now 
 (besides all other exercises) they pay for here in England, though to be free in all the world besides; 
 every coach and horse which enters buying his mouthful and permission of the publicane who has pur- 
 chased it, for which the entrance is guarded with porters and long staves." 
 
 At the Restoration, Mr. Hamilton was appoined Ranger of the park, which he let 
 in farms until 1670, when it was enclosed with a wall, and re-stocked with deer. 
 Refreshments were thus early sold; for 25th April, 1669, Pepys carried his pretty 
 wife to the lodge, and there in their coach ate a cheesecake, and drank a tankard of 
 milk. De Grammont describes the promenade as " the rendezvous of fashion and 
 beauty. Every one, therefore, who had either sparkling eyes or a splendid equipage, 
 constantly repaired thither; and the king (Charles II.) seemed pleased with the place." 
 Maying was a favourite custom here : May 1, 1661, Evelyn " went to Hyde Park to 
 take the air; where was his Majesty and an innumerable appearance of gallants and 
 rich coaches, being now the time of universal festivity and joy." Even in the Puritan 
 times, May (1654) " was more observed by people going a-maying than for divers yeara 
 past ; and, indeed, much sin committed by wicked meetings, with fiddlers, drunkenness,
 
 PARKS. 645 
 
 ribaldry, and the like. Great resort came to Hyde Park, many hundreds of coaches, 
 and gallants in attire : hut most shameful powdered-hair men, and painted and 
 spotted women." A few days after, the Lord Protector and many of his Privy 
 Council witnessed in Hyde Park "a howling of a great hall by fifty Cornish 
 gentlemen of one side, and fifty of the other ; one party playing in red caps, and the 
 other in white. The ball they played withal was silver, and designed for that party 
 which did win the goal." Evelyn, in May, 1658, " went to see a coach-race in Hyde 
 Park ;" and Pepys, August, 1660, " To Hyde Park by coach, and saw a fine foot-race 
 three times round the park." Here a strange accident happened to Cromwell in 1654: 
 
 "The Duke of Hplsfein made him (Cromwell) a present of a set of gay Friesland coach-horses; with 
 which, taking the air in the park, attended only with his secretary, Thurloe, and a guard of Janizaries, 
 he would needs take the place of the coachman, and not content with their ordinary pace, he lashed 
 them very furiously. But they, unaccustomed to such a rough driver, ran away in a rage, and stopped 
 not till they had thrown him out of the box, with which fall his pistol fired in his pocket, though with- 
 out any hurt to himself; by which he might have been instructed how dangerous it was to meddle with 
 those things wherein he had no experience." Ludlow. 
 
 Cromwell was partial to Hyde Park here Syndercombe and Cecill lay wait to 
 assassinate him, when " the hinges of Hyde Park gate were filed off, in order to their 
 escape." The Ring was, from all time previous to the Restoration till far in the reigns 
 of the Georges, the fashionable haunt. It was situated to the north of the present 
 Serpentine, and part of the Ranger's grounds cover its sitej some of the old trees 
 remain, with a few of the oaks traditionally said to have been planted by Charles II. 
 Near the ring was the lodge called the " Grave Prince Maurice's Head," and in later 
 times the " Cake house ;" a slight stream ran before it ; and the house, approached by 
 planks, presented a very picturesque appearance : it is engraved in the Gentleman's 
 Magazine for 1801. 
 
 Reviews have, for nearly two centuries, been favourite spectacles in Hyde Park. At 
 the Restoration, during a splendid show, the Lord Mayor received notice that " Colonel 
 John Lambert was carried by the park a prisoner into Whitehall." 
 
 Pepys "did stand" at another review in 1664, when Charles II. was present, while "the horse and 
 foot march by and discharge their guns, to show a French marquisse (for whom this muster was caused) 
 the goodnesse of our firemen ; which, indeed, was very good, though not without a slip now and then ; 
 and one broadside close to our coach as we had going out of the parke, even to the nearenesse to be ready 
 to burn our hairs. Yet methought all these gay men are not the soldierg that must do the king's business, 
 it being such as these that lost the old king all he had, and were beat by the most ordinary fellows that 
 could be" 
 
 The Militia review by George II. in 1759, the Volunteers by George III., and the 
 encampment of the troops after Lord George Gordon's Riots in 1780, also belong to 
 the military shows of Hyde Park. Here George III. inspected the Volunteers on his 
 birth-day, June 4th, for several years : in 1800 the troops numbered 15,000. In August, 
 1814, were held in this park the Regent's Fete and Fair, when a mimic sea-fight was 
 exhibited on the Serpentine, and fireworks from the wall of Kensington Gardens ; and 
 here have been held in the present century three " Coronation Fairs," and firework 
 displays. Of sterner quality was the rendezvous of the Commonwealth troops in the 
 park during the Civil War. Essex and Lambert encamped their forces here ; and 
 Cromwell reviewed his terrible Ironsides. In 1643 the citizens threw up the line of 
 fortification drawn round the City and suburbs, drawn by order of Parliament ; and one 
 of its strongest works, " Oliver's Mount," faced Mount-street, in Park-lane. (See FOB- 
 TIFICATIONS, p. 354.) Here was the celebrated " Mount" Coffee-house. 
 
 Hyde Park continued with little alteration, till, in 1705, nearly 30 acres were 
 added to Kensington Gardens, by Queen Anne ; and nearly 300 acres by Caroline, 
 Queen of George II. (see KENSINGTON GAEDENS, p. 493), by whose order also, in 
 1730-3, was formed the Serpentine River. The Park has also been reduced by grants 
 of land, between Hyde Park Corner and Park-lane, for building ; and according to a 
 survey taken in 1790, its extent was 394 acres 2 roods 38 poles. In 1766, John 
 Gwynne, the architect, proposed to build in Hyde Park a royal palace for George III. ; 
 and in 1825, a Member of Parliament published a magnificent design for a palace 
 near Stanhope Gate. 
 
 Permission to " vend victuals " in Hyde Park was granted by George II. to a pilot 
 who saved him from wreck in one of his voyages from visiting his Hanoverian domi- 
 nions; and it is stated that the pilot's descendants to this day exercise the privilege.
 
 646 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 At the same time the King gave his deliverer a silver-gilt ring, which bears the arms 
 of Poland impaled with those of Lithuania, surmounted by a regal crown. This ring 
 was exhibited to the British Archaeological Association, Feb. 9, 1853. 
 
 The Conduits of Hyde Park are described at p. 289. Upon the east side, 70 feet 
 above Trinity high-water mark of the Thames, was the Chelsea Waterworks Reservoir, 
 which contained about 1,500,000 gallons : the iron railing and dwarf wall were added 
 to prevent suicides, which were formerly frequent here. The reservoir has been 
 emptied, and the site laid out as a sunk garden, with much taste ; here is a classic 
 drinking fountain ; A. Munro, sculptor. Upon the east side was Walnut-tree Walk, 
 shaded by two rows of noble walnut-trees, extended to a large circle ; these trees 
 were cut down about 1800, and the wood was used by Government for the stocks of 
 soldiers' muskets. 
 
 The colossal statue near the south-east corner of the park, cast by Sir R. Westma- 
 cott, R.A., from twelve 24-pounders, weighing upwards of 30 tons, is about 18 feet 
 high, and occupies a granite pedestal, bearing this inscription : " To Arthur Duke of 
 Wellington, and his brave companions in arms, this statue of Achilles, cast from 
 cannon taken in the battles of Salamanca, Vittoria, Toulouse, and Waterloo, is in- 
 scribed by their country women." On the base is inscribed: " Placed on this spot on 
 the 18th day of June, 1S22, by command of his Majesty George IV." The figure is 
 copied from one of the antique statues on the Monte Cavallo at Rome, and is most 
 improperly called Achilles ! it has never received its sword ! The cost of this monument, 
 10,0001., was subscribed by ladies. 
 
 Gates. The principal entrance is at Hyde Park Corner, through a triple-arched 
 and colonnaded screen, designed by Decimus Burton : eastward is Apsley House, nearly 
 upon the site of which stood the old lodge of the park. In Park-lane is Stanhope- 
 gate, opened about 1750; and Grosvenor-gate, in 1724, by subscription of the neigh- 
 bouring inhabitants. Cumberland-gate, at the west end of Oxford-street, was opened 
 about 1744-5, at the expense of the inhabitants of Cumberland-place and the neigh- 
 bourhood : it was a mean brick arch, with side entrances : here took place a disgraceful 
 contest between the people and the soldiery at the funeral of Queen Caroline, August 
 15, 1821, when two persons were killed by shots from the Horse-guards on duty. In 
 1822, the unsightly brick and wooden gate was removed ; and handsome iron gates 
 were substituted, at the cost of nearly 20001., by Mr. Henry Philip Hope, of Norfolk- 
 street, Park-lane. In 1851 these gates were removed for the marble arch from Buck- 
 ingham Palace, and placed on each side of it ; the cost of removing the arch and re- 
 building it being 4340Z. (See ABCHES, p. 21.) In the Bayswater-road is Victoria- 
 gate : nearly opposite is the handsome terrace, Hyde-Park-gardens. Upon the south 
 side of the park are the Kensington-gate ; the Prince of Wales's-gate, near the site of 
 the Half-way House ; and Albert-gate, Knightsbridge. 
 
 Rotten Row, on the south side of the park, extends about 1^ mile from the lodge 
 at Hyde Park Corner to the Kensington-gate : it is for saddle-horses, who can gallop 
 over its fine loose gravel without danger from falling ; and it is crowded with eques- 
 trians between 5 and 7 P.M., during the high London season. The name Rotten is 
 traced to rotteran, to muster ; which military origin may refer to the park during the 
 Civil War ; but the derivation is disputed. Between Rotten-row and the Queen's 
 Drive was erected the Building for the Great Exhibition of 1851 : 
 "But yesterday a naked sod, 
 
 The dandies sneered from Rotten-row, 
 And sauntered o'er it to and fro, 
 
 And see 'tis done ! 
 As though 'twere by a wizard's rod, 
 A blazing arch ot lucid glass 
 Leaps like a fountain from the grass, 
 
 To meet the sun ! 
 A quiet green but few days since, 
 With cattle browsing in the shade, 
 And lo ! long lines of bright arcade 
 
 In order raised; 
 A palace as for fairy Prince, 
 A rare pavilion, such as mail 
 Saw never since mankind began, 
 And built and glazed !" 
 
 May-day Ode, by W. M. Thackeray: Times, May 1, 1851.
 
 PARKS. 647 
 
 The Crystal Palace, as the building was appropriately so named, we believe, by 
 Douglas Jerrold, its roof and sides being of glass, was designed by Mr. (subsequently 
 Sir Joseph) Paxton j and was constructed by Mr. (subsequently Sir Charles) Fox, and 
 Mr. Henderson. The ground was broken July 30, 1850 ; the first column was placed 
 Sept. 26 j and the building was opened May 1, 1851. 
 
 It was a vast expansion of a conservatory design, built at Chatsworth by Mr. Paxton, for the flower- 
 ing of the Victoria Lily. The Crystal Palace was cruciform in plan, with a transept, nave, and side 
 aisles ; consisting of a framework of wrought and cast-iron, firmly braced together, and based upon a 
 foundation of concrete. It was built without a stogie scaifold-pole, a pair of shears and the Derrick crane 
 being the only machinery used to hoisting the materials. In the plan, every measurement was a mul- 
 tiple of 8. Thus the columns were all 24 feet high, and 24 feet apart ; and the centre aisle or nave was 
 72 feet, or 9 times 8. Again, one single area, bounded by 4 columns and their crowning girders, was the 
 type of the whole building, which was a simple aggregation of so many cubes, in extreme length 1851 
 feet, corresponding with the year of the Exhibition; width 408 feet ; with an additional projection on the 
 north side, 936 feet long by 48 wide. The great avenues ran east and west ; very near the centre crossed 
 the transept, 72 feet high, and 108 wide. Its roof was semicircular, designed by Mr. (subsequently Sir 
 Charles) Barry, so as to preserve three fine old elms. The other roofs, designed by Mr. Paxton, were flat. 
 
 The entire area of the building was 772,784 square feet, or about 19 acres, nearly seven times as much as 
 St. Paul's Cathedral. " The Alhambra and the Tuileries would not have filled up the eastern and western 
 nave; the National Gallery would have stood beneath the transept; the palace of Versailles (the largest 
 in the world) would have extended but a little way beyond the transept; and a dozen metropolitan 
 churches would have stood erect under its roof of glass." (Athenaeum, No. 1227.) The ground area was 
 divided into a central nave, four side aisles, and several courts and avenues; and a gallery ran through- 
 out the building. There were about 3000 columns, nearly 3500 girders, and altogether about 4000 tons 
 of iron built into the structure. The iron skeleton progressed with the framing and glazing, requiring 200 
 miles of wooden sash-bars, and 20 miles of Paxton gutters for the roof, which required 17 acres of glass ; 
 besides which, there were 1500 vertical glazed sashes. Flooring 1,000,000 square feet ; total wood-work, 
 600,000 cubic feet. The hollow cast-iron columns conveyed the rain-fall from the roof. The effective 
 ventilation was by louvre-boards. 
 
 The decoration of the interior, devised by Owen Jones, consisted of the application of the primitive 
 colours, red, blue, and yellow, upon narrow surfaces : it was charmingly artistic, and was rapidly exe- 
 cuted by 500 painters. During the months of December and January, upwards of 2000 workmen were 
 employed throughout the building. 
 
 The vast Palace was filled with the World's Industry: in the western portion were the productions 
 of the United Kingdom, India, and the Colonies ; and the eastern, those of Foreign Countries. The 
 value of the whole (except the Koh-i-noor diamond) was 1,781,9292. 11*. 4d. 
 
 The opening of the Exhibition, on May 1, 1851, was proclaimed by Queen Victoria, accompanied by 
 Prince Albert, the Prince of Wales, and the Princess Royal. Between May 1 and Oct. 11 the number of 
 visits paid was 6,063,986 ; mean daily average 43,536. On three successive days there entered 107,815, 
 109,915, 109,760 persons, who paid respectively 5175Z., 523U., and 52831. There were counted iu the 
 Palace 93,000 persons at one time. Cost of the building, 176.030Z. 13. 8d. Oct. 15, Jury Awards and 
 closing ceremonial. The whole building was removed before the close of 1852; and, on Nov. 7, 1853, it 
 was proposed to place upon the site a memorial of the Exhibition, to include a statue of Prince Albert, 
 the originator of this display of the Industry of all Nations. 
 
 This splendid National Memorial is now (1867) being erected in Hyde Park, as 
 nearly as may be, at the intersecting point of central lines of the two Great Inter- 
 national Exhibitions (Hyde Park and South Kensington), originated by the Prince 
 Consort. 
 
 The design by Gilbert Scott, R.A., though in some sense a " Memorial Cross," 
 differs widely in type from the form usually described by that term. It is, in fact, a 
 vast canopy or shrine, overshadowing a colossal statue of the personage to be comme- 
 morated, and itself throughout enriched with artistic illustrations of or allusions to 
 the arts and sciences fostered by the Prince, and the virtues which adorned his cha- 
 racter. The canopy or shrine which forms the main feature of the Memorial is raised 
 upon a platform approached on all sides by a vast double flight of steps, and stands 
 upon a basement or podium rising from this elevated platform to a level of about 12 
 feet. Upon the angles of this podium stand the four great clusters of granite shafts 
 that support the canopy, which is itself arched on each side from these massive pillars, 
 each face being terminated by a gable, and each angle by a lofty pinnacle ; while over 
 all rises &fleche or enriched spire of metal work, surmounted by a gemmed and floriated 
 cross. Beneath the canopy, and raised upon a pedestal, will be placed the quasi- 
 enthroned statue of the Prince Consort. 
 
 The idea of the architect in his design of the canopy, was this : The first concep- 
 tion was a shrine. The exquisite metal and jewelled shrines of the 12th and 13th 
 centuries are nearly always ideal models of larger structures, but of structures of 
 which the original type never existed. Their pillars were of gold or silver-gilt, en- 
 riched with wreaths of exquisite pattern-work in many-coloured enamel. Their arches, 
 gables, and other architectural features were either chased in beautiful foliage cut in, 
 gold or silver, or enriched with alternate plaques of enamel pattern work and of filigree
 
 648 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 studded with gems. Their roofs were covered with patterns of repousse work or 
 enamel, and enriched with sculptured medallions; the crestings of roofs and gables 
 were grilled with exquisite open foliage in gold or silver, while every part was replete with 
 sculpture, enamel paintings, and jewellery. The architect's aim, then, was to reproduce 
 in some degree at full size the ideal structure which these wonderful old jewellers 
 represented in model. This idea could not, of course, be literally carried out ; but it 
 has determined the leading characteristics of the monument, and at least so far as the 
 metal-work is concerned, is being faithfully acted on, while in the more massive parts 
 of the structure it cannot be carried further than to give its tone to the decorations. 
 
 Hyde Park being for the most part high and dry, is perhaps the most airy and 
 healthy spot in London. The north-west or deer-park, verging upon Kensington 
 Gardens, is even of a rural character : the trees are picturesque, and deer are occa- 
 sionally here. The Serpentine has upon its margin some lofty elms : but from other 
 positions of the park many fine old timber-trees have disappeared, and the famous 
 Ring of Charles II.'s days can be but imperfectly traced. The drives and walks 
 have been greatly extended and improved : for the brick wall has been substituted iron 
 railing ; and the opening of three gates (Victoria, Albert, and Prince of Wales), and 
 the Queen's Drive south of the Serpentine, denominate the improvements in tho 
 present reign. From this high ground the artistic eye enjoys the sylvan scenery of 
 the park ; the old trees fringing the Serpentine, and its water gleaming through their 
 branches : backed by the rich woods of Kensington Gardens ; and the bold beauty of 
 the Surrey hills. 
 
 Among the floral improvements in Hyde Park is the promenade along the 
 east side, from Apsley House to the Marble Arch, where the beds of massed flowers 
 are beautifully effective ; and they are continued from the gates by Apsley House 
 down to the Serpentine. Plantations of ornamental trees are extended along the 
 south side, in pleasure grounds tastefully planted with shrubs and flowers. Finally, 
 horse-rides have been made to extend from Victoria Gate to the Magazine Barracks. 
 
 Flowers are now grown in Hyde Park, with great success. The first attempt was made by Sir 
 Benjamin Hall, in 1856, when Chief Commissioner of Works ; but Mr. Cowper, in 1860, made a regular 
 garden of the space between Stanhope-gate and the Marble Arch, where the massing of colours is very 
 successful ; between the Marble Arch and Kensington Gardens, the flowers are in patches among the 
 trees. The flower-beds were so successful hi Hyde Park that they were adopted by the side of Rotten- 
 row, and in other parks. Pipes are laid under ground for the water-mains, and" the Parisian plan of 
 hose is adopted for watering the flowers and the grass borders. 
 
 The Serpentine (so called in distinction from the previous straight canals) is a 
 pool of water covering fifty acres, formed from natural springs, and originally fed at 
 the Bayswater extremity by a stream from West-End, near Hampstead, and the over- 
 plus of certain reservoirs, one of which occupied the site of Trinity Church. In 1834 
 the stream, or rather sewer, at Bayswater was cut off, and the deficiency was made up 
 from the Chelsea Waterworks. At the eastern end the Serpentine imperfectly sup- 
 plies an artificial cascade, formed in 1817 ; and descending into the " leg of mutton" 
 pond, the stream leaves Hyde Park at Albert Gate, divides the parish of Chelsea from 
 that of St. George's, Hanover-square, and falls into the Thames at Chelsea. The Ser- 
 pentine supplies the Knightsbridge Barracks and the Horse-guards, the lake in 
 Buckingham Palace Gardens, and the ornamental water in St. James's Park. The 
 depth in Hyde Park varies from 1 to 40 feet, of which Sir John Rennie found, in 
 1849, in the deepest parts, from 10 to 15 feet of inky, putrid mud " a laboratory of 
 epidemic miasma." The Serpentine is deepest near the bridge : the whole sheet was 
 deepened, at a cost of from 10,OOOZ. to 20,0002. Here 200,000 persons, on an average, 
 bathe annually, sometimes 12,000 on a Sunday morning; and in severe winters the 
 ice is the greatest metropolitan skating-field. In 1847, pleasure-boats for hire were 
 introduced upon the Serpentine : the boat-houses are picturesque. 
 
 On the north margin The Royal Humane Society, in 1794, built their principal 
 receiving-house, upon ground presented by George II I. In 1834 the house was re- 
 built, from the design of J. B. Bunning ; the first stone being laid by the late Duke of 
 Wellington : over the Ionic entrance is sculptured the obverse of the Society's medal, 
 a boy striving to rekindle an almost extinct torch by blowing it ; legend, Lateal 
 scintillvla forsan " Perchance a spark may be concealed." In the rear are kept
 
 PARKS. 649 
 
 boats, ladders, ropes and poles, wicker-boats, life-preserving apparatus, &c. The Royal 
 Humane Society was founded in 1774, by Drs. Goldsmith, Heberden, Towers, Lettsom, 
 Hawes, and Cogan. Its receiving-houses in the parks cost 30001. a year. In odd 
 contiguity to the Society's House in Hyde Park is the Government Magazine, con- 
 taining stores of ammunition and gunpowder. 
 
 Duels fought in Hyde Park. Temp. Henry VIII., the Duke of B. and Lord B., "near the first tree 
 behind the Lodge;" both killed. 1712. The Duke of Hamilton and Lord Mohun ; both killed. 
 1763. Wilkes and Mr. S. Martin, the hero of Churchill's Duellist. 1770. Baddeley, the comedian, and 
 George Garrick. 1773. Mr. Whately and Mr. Temple. 1780. The Earl of Shelbtirne and Col. Fullarton. 
 1780. Kev. Mr. Bate and Mr. R., both of the Morning Post 1782. Rev. Mr. Allen and Mr. Dulany. 
 1783. Lieut.-Col. Thomas and Col. Gordon, the former killed. 1787. Sir John Macpherson and Major 
 Browne. 1792. Messrs. Frizell and Clarke, law-students, the former killed. 1796. Mr. Carpenter and 
 Mr. Pride (Americans), the former killed. 1797. Col. King and Col. Fitzgerald, the latter killed. 
 Lieut. W. and Capt. I, the latter killed. 1822. The Duke of Bedford and the Duke of Buckingham. 
 
 Near the site of the Humane Society's Receiving-house formerly stood a cottage, 
 presented by George III. to Mrs. Sims, in consideration of her having lost six sons in 
 war ; the last fell with Abercrombie at Alexandria, March 21, 1801. This cottage has 
 been painted by Nasmyth, and engraved in the Art Journal, No. 59, N.S. 
 
 The Law, with regard to the Parks, according to the opinion of the law-advisers of 
 the Crown, November, 1856, is in effect that 
 
 There is a right to close the gates and -exclude the public ; or, the gates being open, to exclude per- 
 sons ; but that, persons who have once entered cannot be turned out without notice that the license is 
 withdrawn. No force, therefore, can be brought to bear against bodies or masses, which might contain 
 many who have not had notice. They also say that it would not be practicable to remove any number 
 individually and prevent them from returning, and remark on the probability of disorder if even an 
 individual were turned out. The effect is that the Government have nothing but the common law of 
 trespass to rely upon with its incidents, which are most important. In July, 1866, the above-mentioned 
 opinion was submitted to Sir W. Bpvill and Sir Hugh Cairns, who were particularly requested to say 
 whether there was any legal authority to disperse by force any meeting for political purposes in the Park. 
 Their answer was that there is no such authority for any practical purpose. They state that when per- 
 sons have once entered the Park they can only be ejected after notice served on or brought home to 
 each individually. If the assembly remain peaceable the police can do nothing but hand out man after 
 man. In no case can they legally clear the Park by a charge, and it is most important that this should 
 be known. The Commissioners of Works, spending public money, represent the public. The Bangers 
 more properly represent the Crown. All these things are important when we are thrown back upon the 
 technical law of trespass. 
 
 On July 23, 1866, a political meeting in Hyde Park having been forbidden by the 
 Home Secretary of State, and the gates being closed, under the direction of Sir 
 Richard Mayne, Chief Commissioner of Police, the railings were torn down, and the 
 mob entered, and committed wanton damage to the flower-beds and shrubberies. The 
 cost of the erection of new iron railings and foot-gates round Hyde Park, in the main 
 rendered necessary by the above riot, is stated at upwards of 10,000/. 
 
 KENNINGTON PARK, formerly Kennington Common, which is described at p. 487, 
 was completed 1852-3. Tn laying out this little park, of 34 acres, an amalgamation 
 of the plan geometrical and the English styles has been adopted. It is furnished with 
 a gymnasium and a playground, which, in that populous neighbourhood, are in constant 
 nse. There is likewise a handsome drinking-fountain, presented by Mr. Felix Slade, 
 of Lambeth, and designed by Mr. Driver. It is constructed of polished granite, sur- 
 mounted by a bronze casting, which represents Hagar and Ishmael at the well. There 
 are two large grass enclosures in the centre of these grounds, in which a very good 
 plan, and one worthy of adoption elsewhere, is pursued to preserve the turf from utter 
 destruction. Different portions 1 of the Park are closed and opened alternately to the 
 public. Were it not for this precaution, there would not be a living blade of grass to 
 be seen by the end of July ; every vestige of turf would be trampled to death. The 
 Park is surrounded by a wrought-iron fence, backed by a privet-hedge. The area thus 
 encircled is only about twelve acres ; and around the lodge which will be recognised 
 as the model lodging-house of the Exhibition of 1851 there is an effective arrange- 
 ment of common garden flowers in sunk panels of turf. Most of the flowers are raised 
 on the spot. 
 
 POPLAR RECREATION GROUNDS, situated between the High-street and East India 
 Dock-road have been completed, by the Metropolitan Board of Works, and were 
 opened in May, 1867. The grounds occupy about five acres in extent, and adjoin the 
 churchyard of St. Matthias, which occupies nearly the same area. The site was
 
 650 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 purchased at a cost of 12,000?., towards which the Metropolitan Board of Works con- 
 tributed 6000/., and 1500Z. has been realized by the sale of old materials. The re- 
 mainder is borrowed, and 20 years allowed for its repayment. 
 
 PEIMEOSE HILL PAKE, about 50 acres at the foot of Primrose Hill, is enclosed and 
 laid out for cricket, and planted with trees and shrubs, by the Commissioners of Woods 
 and Forests. On the south side of the hill is a fine open-air gymnasium, which is 
 more frequented than any other in London. 
 
 REGENT'S PAKE, of 403 acres, lies between the south foot of Primrose Hill and the 
 New-road, and includes " Marylebone Farm and Fields." The relaying out of the estate 
 was proposed in 1793, and a large premium offered for the best design ; but it was not 
 until 1812 that any plan was adopted the plan of John Nash, architect, who built most 
 of the fine terraces by which it is surrounded, and proposed to connect this new part of 
 the town with Carlton House and St. James's : this has been effected in Regent-street, 
 which, with the Park, is named from their having been projected and laid out during 
 the Regency of George IV. The Park is nearly circular in plan, and is comprised 
 within a ride, or drive of about two miles. The south side is parallel to the Marylebone- 
 road ; the east side extends northward to Gloucester-gate ; the west side to Hanover- 
 gate; and the northern curve nearly corresponds with the sweep of the Regent's 
 Canal, at the north-western side of which are Macclesfield-bridge and gate. In the 
 south-west portion of the Park is a sheet of water, in outline resembling the three 
 legs on an Isle-of-Man halfpenny : it is crossed by wire suspension-bridges, and has 
 some picturesque islets, large weeping-willows, shrubs, &c. There are 18 or 20 acres 
 of water on which boats are to be had for hire, and where angling from the banks is 
 permitted at all times while the gates are open. Near the southernmost point is the 
 rustic, cottage of the Toxopholite Society. In the southern half of the Park are two 
 circles : the Inner Circle, formerly Jenkins's nursery-ground, was reserved by Nash as 
 the site for a palace for George IV. : it is now the garden of the Botanic Society (see 
 p. 369). On the eastern slope, at the north end of the Park, is the garden of the 
 Zoological Society. On the east side, a little south of Gloucester-gate, are the enclosed 
 villa and grounds of the Master of St. Katharine's Hospital ; the church and domestic 
 buildings are opposite. (See pp. 166-7.) Among the detached villas in the Park are the 
 Holme, in the centre, built by William Burton, architect; St. John's Lodge (Sir Francis 
 Henry Goldsmid's), adjoining the Inner Circle ; St. Dunstan's Villa, and Holford House, 
 on the Outer Road ; and near Hanover-gate is Hanover Lodge, formerly the Earl of 
 Dundonald's. The portico of St. Dunstan's Villa is adapted from the Temple of the 
 Winds at Athens : the roof is Venetian ; and in a recess near the entrance are the two 
 gigantic wooden figures, with clubs and bells, from old St. Dunstan's Church, Fleet- 
 street (see p. 160) : they were purchased by the late Marquis of Hertford for 200Z. 
 At the south-east corner of the Park is the Diorama building, converted into a Baptist 
 chapel in 1854 ; beyond is the Colosseum, described at pp. 280-3. On the south, east, 
 and north-west sides of the Park are highly-embellished terraces of houses, in which 
 the Doric and Ionic, the Corinthian, and even the Tuscan, orders have been employed 
 with ornate effect, aided by architectural sculpture. In the Inner Circle, adjoining 
 South Villa, is the Observatory, erected in 1837 by Mr. George Bishop, F.R.S., 
 P.R.A.S. It consists of a circular equatorial room, with a dome roof; and an arm 
 containing the altitude and azimuth instrument, micrometers, &c. 
 
 The Avenue, an area of four acres, at the south end of the Broad Walk, has heen laid out in flower 
 gardens. Here the flowers are grouped in ribands, arranged with an artist's eye to colour, the gra- 
 dations of silver-white, orange, purple, and scarlet seem designed to produce a prismatic effect. 
 Instead of being mixed with other colours, the yellow calceolaria is massed here and there. The shrubs 
 and foliage plants grow in great luxuriance. Nearly all the former are flowering shrubs. The spe- 
 cimens of yucca recurva and the standard hollies green, golden, and silver, on straight stems are 
 especially noticeable. The point d'appui of the garden is a large tazza filled with flowers, and supported 
 by four griffins. This is placed in the centre of a large curbed bed, and thirty smaller tazzas and vases 
 are grouped in different parts of the garden. There are fine beds of foliage plants, such as the castor- 
 oil plant, the Ferdinandia eminens, Cannae, and Centaurea. The flowering shrubs are enclosed by a 
 hornbeam hedge, trained as a trellis. A few Lombardy poplars, with their silvery flickers, break the 
 monotony, and add greatly to the apparent extent of the narrow strip of ground. In the summer the 
 flowers and shrubs, flanked by the horse-chestnuts in full blossom and the fine elms, make a glorious 
 show. Here is a not unpicturesque red-brick gardener's cottage ; and there have been added two 
 fountains one near Gloucester-gate, and the other in the middle of the Broad Walk, the space round 
 the latter beautifully laid out with exotics. Abridged from the Times.
 
 PARKS. 651 
 
 Unlike the other parks, this contains within its boundaries several handsome private 
 residences, surrounded by picturesque pleasure grounds. Each of the two elder parks 
 is completely surrounded by houses, so that in one case we have 1000, and in another 
 nearly 500 acres of trees, grass, and flowers in the interior of our immense metropolis* 
 just as are the squares in other cities and towns. 
 
 SOTJTHWARK PAHS. The Metropolitan Board, after eight years' deliberation, pur- 
 chased the land for this new Park, at about 9111. per acre. The site consists of 65 
 acres of land in the parish of Rotherhithe, bounded by Jamaica Level, Union-road, the 
 Rothcrhithe New-road, and the South-Eastern Railway. Of the 65 acres, only 45 
 are devoted to the purposes of the Park : the remainder being appropriated to 
 building plots, and a road to encircle the Park. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S PAEK is in plan an irregular triangle, in form resembling a boy's 
 kite, eighty-three acres in extent. It was originally a swampy field attached to 
 St. James's Hospital : the ground was drained and enclosed by Henry VIII., who 
 thus made it the pleasure-ground both of the Hospital which he had converted into 
 St. James's Palace and of Whitehall, whose tilt-yard, cockpit, tennis-court, and bowling- 
 green were on the eastern verge of the Park ; but during the reigns of Elizabeth and 
 the first two Stuarts it was little more than a nursery for deer, and an appendage to 
 the tilt-yard. A procession of 15,000 citizens, " besides wifflers and other awayters," 
 on May 8, 1539, passed " rounde about the Parke of St. James." In the reign of 
 Charles I. a sort of royal menagerie took the place of the deer with which the 
 "inward park" was stocked in the days of Henry and Elizabeth. Charles, as he 
 walked through the Park to Whitehall on the fatal January 30, 1648-9, is said to 
 have pointed to a tree which had been planted by his brother, Prince Henry, near 
 Spring Gardens. Here Cromwell, as he walked with Whitelock, asked him, " What if a 
 man should take upon him to be king ?" to which the memorialist replied : " I think 
 that remedy would be worse than the disease." Evelyn, in his Sylva, mentions the 
 branchy walk of elms in the Park, " intermingling their reverend tresses." 
 
 Charles II. added thirty-six acres to the Park, extended the wall towards Pall 
 Mall, had it planted by Le N6tre, and, it is believed, by Dr. Morison, formerly 
 employed by the Duke of Orleans. The original account for " workes and services" is 
 signed by Charles himself. Pepys and Evelyn record the progress of the works : 
 
 " 16 Sept. 1660. To the Park, where I saw how far they had proceeded in the Pell Mell, and in 
 making a river through the Park." " 11 Oct. 1660. To walk in St. James's Park, where we observed 
 the several engines at work to draw up water." " 4 Aug. 1661. Walked into St. James's Park, and 
 there found great and very noble alterations." " 27 July, 1662. I to walke in the Parke, which is now 
 every day more and more pleasant by the new works upon it." " 1 Dec. 1662. Over the Parke, wher 
 I first in my life, it being a great frost, did see people sliding with their skeates, which is a very pretty 
 art." " 15 Dec. 1662. To the Duke (of York), and followed him into the Parke, where, though the ice 
 was broken and dangerous, yet he would go slide upon his scates, which I did not like ; but he slides 
 very well." " 11 Aug. 1664. This day, for a wager, before the king, my lords of Castlehaven and Arran, 
 a son of my Lord of Ormond's, they two alone did run down and kill a stout buck in St. James's Park," 
 Pepys. " 19 Feb. 1666-7. In the afternoon I saw a wrestling match for 1000Z. in St. James's Park, 
 before his Maty, a world of lords, and other spectators, 'twixt the Western and Northern men. Mr. 
 Secretary Moriee and Le Gerard being the judges. The Western men won. Many greate sums were 
 betted." Evelyn. 
 
 The courtly Waller commemorates the Park, "as lately improved by his Majesty," 
 1661. Faithorne's plan, taken soon after the Restoration, shows the north half of 
 the parade occupied by a square enclosure, surrounded by twenty -one trees, with one 
 tree in the centre ; and in the lower part of the parade broad running water, with a 
 bridge of two arches in the middle. Later views show the Park with long rows of 
 young elm and lime trees, fenced with palings, and occasionally relieved by some fine 
 picturesque old trees. 
 
 The Mall, on the north side, a vista half a mile in length, wlas named from the 
 game of " pale maille" played here : it was a smooth hollow walk planted on each. 
 side, and having an iron hoop suspended from the arm of a high pole, through which, 
 ring the ball was struck by a maille, or mallet. (See a drawing, temp. Charles IL, 
 engraved in Smith's Antiquities of Westminster, and a plate in Carter's Westminster^ 
 Here Charles and his courtiers often played : the earth was mixed with powdered 
 cockle-shells to make it bind j " which, however," says Pepys, " in dry weather turns 
 to dust, and deads the ball." (See the account of the game, at p. 636.)
 
 652 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 "2 April, 1661. To St. James's Park, where I saw the Duke of York playing at pall-mall, the first 
 time that I ever saw the sport." Pepys. 
 
 Gibber tells us tbat here he had often seen Charles playing with his dogs and 
 feeding his ducks, which made the common people adore him. 
 
 The Bird-cage Walk, on the south side of the Park, nearly in the same line as 
 the road which still retains the name, had in Charles II.'s time the cages of an 
 aviary disposed among the trees which bordered it. The keeper of the Volary, or 
 Aviary, was Edward Storey, from whom or his house is named Storey's Gate. The 
 carriage-road between this and Buckingham Gate was, until 1828, only open to the 
 Royal Family, and the Hereditary Grand Falconer, the Duke of St. Albans. 
 
 In the " inward park" was made a formal Canal, 2800 feet in length and 100 
 feet broad, running from the Parade to Buckingham House. On .the south of this 
 canal, near its east end, was the Decoy, a triangular nexus of smaller canals, where 
 water-fowl were kept. Within the channels of the Decoy was Duck Island, of 
 which Sir John Flock and St. Evremond were, in succession, appointed governors 
 (with a salary) by Charles II. ; and Queen Caroline is said to have given the sinecure 
 to the thresher-poet, Stephen Duck : " the island itself," says Pennant, " is lost in the 
 late improvements." 
 
 The Park, as well as the Palace, sheltered persons from arrest ; for, in 1632, John 
 Perkins, a constable, was imprisoned for serving the Lord Chief-Justice's warrant upon 
 John Beard in St. James's Park. To draw a sword in the Park was also a very serious 
 offence. Congreve, in his Old Bachelor, makes Bluffe say, " My blood rises at that 
 fellow. I can't stay where he is ; and / must not draw in the Park" Traitorous 
 expressions, when uttered in St. James's Park, were punished more severely. Francis 
 Heat was whipped, in 1717, from Charing Cross to the upper end of the Haymarket, 
 fined ten groats, and ordered a month's imprisonment, for saying aloud in St. James's 
 Park, " God save King James III., and send him a long and properous reign !" and, in 
 1718, a soldier was whipped in the Park for drinking a health to the Duke of Ormond 
 and Dr. Sacheverell, and for saying " he hoped soon to wear his right master's cloth." 
 The Duke of Wharton, too, was seized by the guard in St. James's Park for singing 
 the Jacobite air, " The king shall have his own again." See Cunningham's Handbook, 
 p. 260 ; where are printed, from the Letter-book of the Lord Steward's Office, two 
 letters, dated 1677, sent with two lunatics to Bethlehem : Deborah Lyddal, for offering 
 to throw a stone at the queen ; and Richard Harris, for throwing an orange at the 
 king, in St. James's Park. 
 
 Evelyn thus records the introduction of skating: "Dec. 1,1662. Having seeue 
 the strange and wonderful dexterity of the sliders on the new canal in St. James's 
 Park, performed before their Majesties by divers gentlemen and others, with scheets 
 after the manner of the Hollanders, with what swiftness as they pass, how suddainly 
 they stop in full career upon the ice, I went home." Some of the cavaliers had, pro- 
 bably, acquired the art when seeking to while away a Dutch winter ; and but for the 
 temporary overthrow of the monarchy, we should not thus early have had skating in 
 England. The Park soon became a resort for all classes, since, in 1683, the Duke of 
 York records, Dec. 4 (a very hard frost), " This morning the boys began to slide upon 
 the canal in the Park." 
 
 Evelyn, in 1664, went to " the Physique Garden in St. James's," where he first saw 
 " orange-trees and other fine trees." He enumerates in the menagerie, " an ornocra- 
 tylus, or pelican ; a fowle between a storke and a swan ; a melancholy water-fowl, 
 brought from Astracan by the Russian ambassador ; a milk-white raven ; two Baiearian 
 cranes," one of which had a wooden leg " made by a soulder :" there were also " dcere 
 of severall countries^ white, spotted like leopards ; antelopes, an elk, red deer, roebucks, 
 staggs, Guinea goates, Arabian sheepe, &c." There were " withy -potts, or nests, for 
 the wild fowle to lay their eggs in, a little above y e surface of y e water." 
 
 "25 Feb. 1664. This night I walk'd into St. James his Parke, where I saw many strange creatures, as 
 divers sorts of outlandish deer, Gniny sheep, a white raven, a great parrot, a storke. . . . Here are 
 very stately walkes set with lime trees on both sides, and a fine pallmall." Journal of Mr. E. Browne, 
 ion of Sir Thomas Browne. 
 
 Evelyn, on March 2, 1671, attended Charles through St. James's Park, where he 
 saw and heard " a familiar discourse between the King and Mrs. Nelly, as they called 
 an impudent comedian ; she looking out of her garden on a terrace at the top, and the
 
 PARKS. 653 
 
 King standing on the green walk under it." " Of the mount, or raised terrace, on 
 which Nelly stood, a portion may still be seen under the park-wall of Marlborough 
 House." (Cunningham's Nell Gwyn, p. 118.) In the royal garden where Charles 
 stood, and which was then the northern boundary of the Park, we find Master Pepys, 
 in his Diary, stealing apples like a schoolboy. Pepys also portrays a court cavalcade 
 in the Park, all flaunting with feathers, in which Charles appears between the Countess 
 of Castlemaine and the Queen, and Mrs. Stewart. 
 
 Succeeding kings allowed the people the privilege of walking in the Mall ; and the 
 passage from Spring Gardens was opened in 1699 by permission of King William. 
 Queen Caroline, however, talked of shutting up the Park, and converting it into a 
 noble garden for St. James's Palace : she asked Walpole what it might probably cost ; 
 who replied, " Only three crowns" Dean Swift, who often walked here with the 
 poets Prior and Kowe, writes of skating as a novelty to Stella, in 1711 : "Delicious 
 walking weather," says he ; " and the Canal and Rosamond's Pond full of rabble 
 sliding, and with skaitts, if you know what it is." The gloomy Rosamond's Pond, of 
 oblong shape, and overhung by the trees of the Long Avenue, is mentioned in a grant 
 of Henry VIII. It occurs as a place of assignation in the comedies of Otway, Con- 
 greve, Farquhar, Southern, and Colley Gibber ; and Pope calls it " Rosamonda's Lake." 
 Its name is referred to the frequency of love-suicides committed here. The pond was 
 filled up in 1.770, when the gate into Petty France was opened for bringing in the soil 
 to fill up the pond and the upper part of the canal. Hogarth painted a large view and 
 a cabinet view of Rosamond's Pond : for the latter he received but 1 Z. 7*., the receipt in 
 the handwriting of Mrs. Hogarth. In a house belonging to the Crown, at the south- 
 east corner of Rosamond's Pond, was born George Colman the Younger, who describes 
 the snow-white tents of the Guards, who were encamped in the Park during the Riots 
 of 1780. The Wellington Barracks, built near the site of Rosamond's Pond, were 
 first occupied by troops on March 1, 1814 ; the Military Chapel was opened May 1, 1838. 
 
 The trees have been thinned by various means. Dryden records, by a violent wind, 
 February 7, 1698-9 : " The great trees in St. James's Park are many of them torn up 
 from the roots, as they were before Oliver Cromwell's death, and the late Queen's." 
 The uniformity of Bird-cage Walk has been spoiled by the new road. Samouelle, in his 
 Compendium of Entomology, figures a destructive moth " found in July, in St. James's 
 Park, against trees." 
 
 St. James's Park was a favourite resort of Goldsmith, and is thus characterized by 
 him: 
 
 "If a man be splenetic, he may every day meet companions on the seats in St. James's Park, with 
 whose groans he may mix his own, and pathetically talk of the weather." (Essays.) The strolling 
 player takes a walk in St. James's Park, "about the hour at which company leave it to go to dinner. 
 There were but few in the walks; and those who stayed, seemed by their looks rather more willing to 
 forget that they had an appetite, than gain one." (Essays.) And dinnerless, Jack Spindle mends his 
 appetite by a walk in the Park. 
 
 After the death of Charles II., St. James's Park ceased to be the favourite haunt of 
 the Sovereign, but it continued to be the promenade of the people ; and here, in the 
 summer, till early in the present century, gay company walked for one or two hours 
 after dinner ; but the evening dinner robbed the Park of this charm, and the Mall 
 became principally a thoroughfare for busy passengers. 
 
 " My spirits sunk, and a tear started into my eyes, as I brought to mind those crowds of beauty, rank, 
 and fashion, which, till within these few years, used to be displayed in the centre Mall of this Park on 
 Sunday evenings during the spring and summer. How often in my youth had I been a delighted spec- 
 tator of the enchanted and enchanting assemblage ! Here used to promenade, for one or two hours 
 after dinner, the whole British world of gaiety, beauty, and splendour. Here could be seen in one 
 moving mass, extending the whole length of the Mall, 5000 of the most lovely women in this country of 
 female beauty, all splendidly attired, and accompanied by as many well-dressed men. What a change, 
 I exclaimed, has a few years wrought in these once happy and cheerful personages. How many of those 
 who on this very spot then delighted my eyes, are now mouldering in the silent grave !" Sir Kichard 
 Phillips's Morning's Walk from London to Slew, 1817. 
 
 For the Peace Commemoration Fete, on August 1, 1814, the Mall and Bird-cage 
 Walk were lighted with Chinese lanterns ; a Chinese bridge and seven-storied pagoda 
 were erected across the canal : they were illuminated with lamps, and fireworks were 
 discharged from them, which set fire to the pagoda, and burnt its three upper stories, 
 when two persons lost their lives. Canova, when asked what struck him most forcibly 
 during his visit to England, is said to have replied, " that the trumpery Chinese bridge
 
 654 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 in St. James's Park should be the production of the government, whilst that of Water- 
 loo was the work of a private company." Quarterly Review. 
 
 The State-Paper Office, further south, occupying part of the site of the house of 
 Lord Chancellor Jeffreys, was built by Sir John Soane in 1833 : it was his latest work, 
 and resembled an Italian palazzo : it was taken down for the site of the new FOREIGN 
 AND INDIA OFFICES. At No. 17, Duke-street, died in 1849, aged 81, Sir Marc Isam- 
 bard Brunei, the engineer of the Thames Tunnel. 
 
 Upon the south side of the Park, too, is Milton's garden-house, in Petty France. 
 Hazlitt lived in this house in 1813, when Haydon was one of a christening-party of 
 " Charles Lamb and his poor sister, and all sorts of odd clever people, in a large room, 
 wainscoted and ancient, where Milton had meditated." (Haydon's Autobiography, 
 vol. i. p. 211.) In the garden-wall is a doorway, now blocked up, but which once 
 opened into the Park, and was probably that used by Milton in passing from his house 
 to Whitehall. In Queen-square-place, and looking upon the garden-ground of Milton's 
 house, was the house of Jeremy Bentham, who died here in 1832. 
 
 The hints for supplanting the forest-trees which skirt the Park, by flowering shrubs, 
 and dressing the ground in a gayer style, so as to convert even the gloomy alleys of 
 St. James's Park into a lively and agreeable promenade, were first published in " A 
 Letter to the Kt. Hon. Sir Charles Long," &c., 1825. 
 
 In 1827 was commenced the relaying out of the inner Park. The straight canal was 
 altered and extended to a winding lake, with islands of evergreens : at the west end was 
 a fountain. The borders of the principal walk are planted with evergreens, which are 
 scientifically labelled ; some of the fine old elms remain. The glimpses of grand archi- 
 tectural objects from this Park are very striking, and include the towers of Westminster 
 Abbey and the new Houses of Parliament ; the extensive front of Buckingham Palace ; 
 the York Column, rising from between terraces of mansions ; and the Horse-Guards, 
 terminating the picturesque vista of the lake ; although the ornamental effect is spoiled 
 by an ugly engineering bridge. Upon the eastern island is the Swiss cottage of the 
 Ornithological Society, built in 1841 with a grant of 3001. from the Lords of the Trea- 
 sury : the design is by J. B. Watson, and contains a council-room, keeper's apartments, 
 steam-hatching apparatus ; contiguous are feeding-places and decoys ; and the aquatic 
 fowl breed on the island, making their own nests among the shrubs and grasses. In 
 1849 an experimental crop of Forty-day Maize (from the Pyrenees) was successfully 
 grown and ripened in this Park. For the privilege of farming the chairs, 251. is paid 
 annually to the office of Woods and Forests. 
 
 The fine old trees of the grounds of Carlton House formerly overhung the road by 
 the park-wall, now the site of the Paestum-Doric substructure of Carlton-house-terrace ; 
 the opening in which to the York Column was formed by command of William IV., as 
 had been the Spring Garden gate by William III. Milk Fair, leftward of this gate, 
 commemorated by Tom Brown, in 1700, has disappeared. The vista of the Mall, 
 which consists of elms, limes, and planes, is terminated by the grand front of Buck- 
 ingham Palace. 
 
 On the Parade is the immense mortar cast at Seville by order of Napoleon, employed 
 by Marshal Soult at the siege of Cadiz in 1812, and abandoned by the French army in 
 their retreat from Salamanca : it was presented by the Spanish Cortes to the Prince 
 Regent. The gun-metal bed and carriage were cast at Woolwich in 1814, and consist 
 of a crouching dragon, with upraised wings and scorpion-tail, involving the trunnions ; 
 it is allegorical of the monster Geryon, destroyed by Hercules. The mortar itself is 8 
 feet long, 12 inches diameter in bore, and has thrown shells 3^ miles : it weighs 
 about 5 tons. On the pedestal are inscriptions in Latin and English. When Soult was 
 in England, in 1838, he good-humouredly recognised his lost gun. Here was also for- 
 merly a small piece of artillery which had been taken from Bonaparte at Waterloo. 
 
 Upon the Parade was marshalled the State Funeral Procession of the great Duke of 
 Wellington, November 18, 1852. The body was removed from Chelsea Hospital on 
 the previous midnight, and deposited in the Audience-Chamber at the Horse-Guards. 
 Beneath a tent upon the Parade-ground was stationed the Funeral Car, whereon the 
 coffin being placed, and the command given, tho cortege, in slow and solemn splendour, 
 moved down the Mall past Buckingham Palace, whence the procession was seen by 
 Her Majesty and the Royal Family.
 
 PARLIAMENT HOUSES. 655 
 
 VICTOBIA PAKE, Bethnal-green, equal to the entire area of Kensington Gardens, 
 originated as follows : In the 4th and 5th years of Her present Majesty's reign, an 
 Act was passed to enable the Commissioners of Woods and Forests to complete the sale 
 of York House, and to purchase with the proceeds a Royal Park. The Duke of Suther- 
 land paid 72,OOOZ. for the remainder of the lease of York House, and this money was 
 applied to the purchase of about 290 acres of land, situated in the parishes of St. John, 
 Hackney ; St. Matthew, Bethnal-green ; and St. Mary, Stratford-le-Bow, county of 
 Middlesex. Nearly one-third of the acreage mentioned is taken for building ground; 
 the rest is Victoria Park. Its site had been previously market-gardens and brickfields. 
 The ornamental lake is made over the rough brickfield, near to which stood Bishop 
 Bonner's famous hall. The Park is bounded on the north side by Hackney ; on the 
 south by Sir G. Duckett's Canal, running nearly east and west ; and on the west by the 
 Eegent's Canal. It is divided into two portions the Ornamental or West Park, and 
 the East Park. In the former there is an ornamental lake about ten acres of surface, 
 with three islands. Here boats are hired out ; and there are waterfowl of various 
 kinds. On the south-west side of the lake there is a fine avenue of elm trees, with a 
 carriage-drive and shady walks ,- and an arcade, furnished with seats. On the north- 
 west end of the lake is a walk called " The Vale," which is planted with choice trees, 
 shrubs, and flowers. Close adjacent are the greenhouses and pits for raising and 
 wintering the plants. In this portion of the Park there are several separate flower- 
 gardens, riband borders 300 yards long, and mixed flower-beds. The East Park is used 
 for games, and contains two bathing lakes, which are well supplied with water. These 
 are much frequented ; as many as 7000 persons often bathe here in one morning. The 
 extent of these two lakes is about six acres. At the extreme end of the Park is the 
 cricket-ground, of 35 or 40 acres. Here 60 or 80 wickets are often pitched on 
 Saturdays. About one-third of the way through the Park is the superb Victoria 
 Drinking-fountain, presented by Miss Burdett Coutts, described at page 358 ; and, to 
 add to the means afforded for public exercise and recreation, there is a gymnasium, as 
 there are also swings and merry-go-rounds. The Park has often 30,000 visitors in a 
 single day. Wednesday afternoon is the children's day. In the neighbourhood has 
 been swept away a wretched village of hovels, once known as Botany Bay, from so 
 many of its inhabitants being sent to the real place. Formerly this Park was on 
 Sundays the great resort of controversialists, especially such as believe in all manner of 
 unbelief, and who attracted here congregations of different persuasions ; but the preach- 
 ing of so many of them being language of the most blasphemous description, in 1856, 
 all preaching here was forbidden by authority. 
 
 In fine weather, when the band plays, over 100,000 persons are frequently collected in this Park. 
 The people are orderly, most of them being of the humbler classes, and their appreciation of the flowers 
 is quite as keen as that of frequenters of the West-end parks. Some of the Spitalfields weavers have a 
 great fondness for flowers, and contrive somehow or other in the most unlikely places to rear very 
 choice varieties. In small, wretched-looking yards, where little air and only the mid-day sun can. 
 penetrate, you may see patches of garden, evidently tended with uncommon care, and yielding to their 
 cultivators a fair reward in fragrance and in blossom. Some of the weavers even manage by bits of 
 broken glass and a framework which just holds together, to put up something which does duty as a 
 greenhouse ; and in this triumph of patience and ingenuity they spend much of their leisure, happy 
 when they can make up a birthday bouquet for some friend or relation. The flowers in the neighbouring 1 
 park, with their novel grouping and striking contrasts of colour, are, of course, a continual fund of 
 pleasure to these poor artisans, and gladden many a moment when perhaps work is not too plentiful 
 and home thoughts are not very happy. In Victoria Park the plants and flowers are labelled in letters 
 which he who walks may read, without need of getting over fence or bordering. A smaller lake than 
 that hi which the boating and the bathing go on is devoted to yacht-sailing. This amusement seems 
 almost confined to East London ; and here on a summer evening, when a cap-full of wind is to be had, 
 you may see the lake whitened by forty or fifty toy boats and yachts, of all rigs and sizes, while here and 
 there a miniature-steamboat is pufBng and panting. There is even a yacht-club whose members com- 
 pete with their toy-yachts for silver cups and other prizes. The expense of keeping up a yacht here is 
 not considerable, and the whole squadron may be laid up until wanted in a boathouse provided for the 
 purpose. But the matches and trials of these tiny craft are a special attraction of the Park, and draw 
 together every evening hundreds of people. Ample space is available for cricket ; and in the two gym- 
 nasia candidates for swinging, jumping, and climbing appear to be never wanting. Times, September, 
 1864. 
 
 PARLIAMENT HOUSES, THE, 
 
 STYLED also " New Westminster Palace," occupy the site of the Royal Palace of 
 the monarchs of England, from Edward the Confessor to Queen Elizabeth.
 
 656 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Westminster Palace is first named in a charter of Edward the Confessor, " made" 
 eoon after 1052 : here the Confessor died, Jan. 14, 1066. On the Easter succeeding, 
 King Harold came here from York. William the Norman held councils here; and in 
 1069 Alfric, Abbot of Peterborough, was tried before the king in curia at West- 
 minster, this being one of the first records of the holding of a law-court on this 
 spot. William Eufus added the Great Sail, wherein he held his court in 1099 ; as 
 did also Henry I. Stephen founded the palace chapel, which was dedicated to St. 
 Stephen. In the reign of Henry II., Fitzstephen records : " on the west, and on the 
 bank of the river, the Royal Palace exalts its head, and stretches wide, an incom- 
 parable structure, furnished with bastions and a breastwork, at the distance of two 
 miles from the City." The Close Rolls, in the Tower of London, contain many 
 curious entries concerning the palace in the time of John and Henry III. : here, 
 in a great council, Henry confirined the Magna Charta and the Charta de Foresta : in 
 his reign, also, the gibbet was removed from the palace. In 1238 the whole palace 
 was flooded by the Thames, and boats were afloat in the Great Hall. There are 
 numerous records in this reign of painting and decorating the palace, storing its 
 cellars with wine, &c. (See PAINTED CHAMBEE, p. 625.) Of the repairs of the 
 mews, the new buttery and kitchen, and the rebuilding and painting of St. Stephen's 
 Chapel, in the reign of Edward I., there are minute accounts. In 1298 the palace 
 was nearly destroyed by fire, but was restored by Edward II. St. Stephen's Chapel 
 was completed by Edward III. The poet Chaucer was clerk of the palace works in 
 the reign of Richard II., who rebuilt Westminster Hall nearly as we now see it. In 
 1512 a great part of the palace was "once again burnt, since which time it has not 
 been re-edified : only the Great Hall, with the offices near adjoining, are kept in good 
 repairs ; and it serveth, as before it did, for feasts at coronations, arraignments of 
 great persons charged with treasons, keeping of the courts of justice, &c.j but the 
 princes have been lodged in other palaces about the City, as at Baynard's Castle, at 
 Bridewell, and Whitehall (sometimes called York Place), and sometimes at St. James's." 
 (Strype's Stow's London, vol. ii. p. 628, edit. 1755.) Some buildings were added by 
 Henry VIII., who is supposed to have built the Star Chamber ; a portion of which, 
 however, bore the date 1602. Parliaments were held in Westminster Hall temp. 
 Henry III., and thenceforth in the Painted Chamber and White Chamber. After the 
 Suppression, the Commons sat in St. Stephen's Chapel, until its destruction by fire 
 Oct. 16, 1834, with the House of Lords, and the surrounding Parliamentary buildings. 
 The scene of the conflagration was painted by J. M. W. Turner, R.A. 
 
 The demesne of the Old Palace was bounded on the east by the river Thames ; on 
 the north by the Wool staple, now Bridge- street ; on the west by the precincts of St. 
 Margaret's Church and Westminster Abbey, behind Abingdon-street ; and on the 
 south by the line of the present College-street, where formerly ran a stream, called 
 the Great Ditch (now a sewer), outside the palace garden-wall. 
 
 Among the more ancient buildings which existed to our time, was the Painted 
 Chamber. Next was the Old House of Lords (the old Parliament Chamber), rebuilt 
 by Henry II. on the foundations of Edward the Confessor's reign ; the walls were 
 nearly seven feet thick, and the vaults (Guy Fawkes' cellar) had been the kitchen of 
 the Old Palace : this building was taken down about 1823, prior to the erection of 
 the Royal Gallery and Entrance, by Soane, R.A. Southward was the Prince's Chamber 
 (then also demolished), with foundations of Edward the Confessor's time, and a super- 
 structure with lancet-windows, temp. Henry III. : the walls were painted in oil with 
 scriptural figures, and hung with tapestry representing the birth of Queen Elizabeth. 
 Next was the Old Court of Requests, supposed to have been the Great Hall of the 
 Confessor's palace : this was, until 1834, the House of Lords, and was hung with 
 tapestry representing the defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588 : it was destroyed in 
 the Great Fire, after which the interior was refitted for the House of Commons. 
 
 The Armada Tapestry was woven by Spiering, from the designs of Henry Cornelius Vroom, at 
 Haarlem, for Lord Howard of Effingham, Lord High Admiral of the English fleet which engaged the 
 Armada. It was sold by him to James I., and consisted originally of ten compartments, with borders 
 containing portraits of the officers of the English fleet. These hangings were engraved by Pine in 1739. 
 
 St. Stephen's Chapel had its beautiful architecture and sumptuous decoration hidden
 
 PARLIAMENT HOUSES. 
 
 657 
 
 NORTH. 
 
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 cc 
 
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 658 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 until the enlargement of the interior in 1800, when its painting, gilding, and sculp- 
 ture, its traceried and brilliant windows, were discovered. Among the mural paintings 
 were the histories of Jonah, Daniel, Jeremiah, Job, Tobit, Judith, Susannah, and of 
 Bel and the Dragon ; the Ascension of Christ, and the Miracles and Martyrdom of 
 the Apostles ; and in the windows were the stories of Adam and Eve, and of Noah and 
 his family, of Abraham, Joseph, and the Israelites ; and of the Life of the Saviour, 
 from his baptism to his crucifixion and death. Among the decorations were figures of 
 angels and armed knights, Edward III. and his family, and heraldic shields. The 
 jewels, vestments, and furniture of the chapel were very superb. The Cloisters were 
 first built in 1356, south of the chapel, on the spot subsequently called Cotton Garden.* 
 The Crypt, or under-chapel of St. Stephen is described at p. 304. 
 
 On the south side, probably, was the small chapel of St. Mary de la Pewe, or Our 
 Lady of the Pew ; wherein Richard II. offered to the Virgin, previously to meeting 
 the insurgents under Wat Tyler in Smithfield, in 1381. Westminster Hall will be 
 described hereafter. Upon its western side were built the Law Courts, by Soane, 
 K.A., upon the site of the old Exchequer Court, &c. On the east side of New Palace- 
 yard was an arch, temp. Henry III., leading to the Thames ; and the old Exchequer 
 buildings and the Star Chamber, described at p. 450. On the northern side of New 
 Palace-yard, directly fronting the entrance-porch of the Great Hall, on a spot sub- 
 sequently hidden by the houses on the terrace, stood the famous Clock-tower, built and 
 furnished with a clock, temp. Edward I., with a fine of 800 marks levied on Chief- 
 Justice Sir Ralph de Hingham for altering a record : the keepers of this clock-tower 
 were appointed by the Sovereign, and were paid 6d. a day at the Exchequer. The 
 tower was taken down about 1707 ; and its bell, " Great Tom of Westminster," was 
 subsequently re-cast (with additional metal) for the great bell of St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 Hatton describes the House of Commons, altered by Sir Christopher Wren, in 1706, 
 as " a commodious building, accommodated with several ranks of seats, covered with 
 green cloth (baize ?), and matted under foot, for 513 gentlemen. On three sides of 
 this house are beautiful wainscot galleries, sustained by cantaleevers, enriched with 
 fruit and other carved curiosities." 
 
 Of the House of Lords, in 1778, we have a portion in Copley's fine picture of the 
 fall of the great Earl of Chatham. Of the several Gates to the old palace, the only 
 one of which we have any record is that begun by Richard III. in 1484, at the east 
 end of Union-street, and taken down in 1706 ; and a century later, in a fragment of 
 this gate built into a partition-wall, was found a capital, sculptured with William Rufus 
 granting a charter to Gislebertus, Abbot of Westminster : this capital was sold by Mr. 
 Capon to Sir Gregory Page Turner, Bart., for 100 guineas. A plan of the old palace, 
 measured 1793-1823, is engraved in Vetusta Monumenta, vol. v.j in J. T. Smith's 
 Antiquities of Westminster; and in Brayley and Britton's Westminster Palace, 1836, 
 admirably illustrated, from drawings by R. W. Billings. 
 
 For rebuilding, in 1836 was selected from 97 sets the design of Charles Barry, R.A. 
 The coffer-dam for the river-front was commenced 1837; the river-wall 1839; 
 and, on April 27, 1840, was laid the first stone, at the north end of the Speaker's 
 house. The exterior material is fine magnesian limestone, from Anston, in Yorkshire ; 
 and Caen stone for the interior ; the river-terrace is of Aberdeen granite ; the whole 
 building stands on a bed of concrete 12 feet thick. The vast pile covers about eight 
 acres, and has four principal fronts, the eastern or river being 940 feet in length. 
 The plan contains 11 open quadrangles or courts, which, besides 500 apartments 
 and 18 official residences, flank the royal state-apartments, the Houses of Lords 
 and Commons, and the great Central Hall. The interior walls are fine brick; the 
 bearers of the floors are cast-iron, with brick arches turned from girder to girder; 
 the entire roofs are of wrought-iron covered with cast-iron plates galvanized ; so that 
 timber has not been used hi the carcases of the entire building ; and the principle of 
 making the Palace as nearly fire-proof as possible in the roofs has been thoroughly 
 carried out. 
 
 * s ' r Robert Cotton had a house and garden abutting against the Painted Chamber; and it was 
 there that his collection of MSS., now in the British Museum, was originally stored. In Cotton House 
 in 1820, were lodged the Italian witnesses against Queen Caroline on her Trial.
 
 PARLIAMENT HOUSES. 659 
 
 The New Palace is the largest public edifice which has been erected for several 
 centuries in England ; and in the arrangement of its apartments for the transaction 
 of public business, in its lighting, ventilation, fire-proof construction, supply of water, 
 &c., it is the most perfect building in Europe. The style is Tudor (Henry VIII.), 
 with picturesque portions of the town-halls of the Low Countries, and three grand 
 features : a Clock Tower at the northern extremity, resembling that of the Town- 
 house at Brussels; a great Central Hall, with an open stone lantern and spire; 
 and the Royal or Victoria Tower, at the south-west angle. 
 
 In 1841 was issued the Fine Arts Commission for rebuilding the Houses of Parliament ; and in 1848 
 the Commission to superintend the completion of the New Palace. Certain portions of the external 
 stonework having decayed, a Commission was issued to investigate the cause; competing chemical 
 processes were adopted as remedies by hardening or indurating the stone, which had been injudiciously 
 selected : time can only decide the merits of these processes. For details, see Year-Hook of Facts. 1861 
 and 1862. 
 
 The vast edifice covers at least twice the site of the old Palace of Westminster, 
 about half the new ground occupied being taken from the Thames. The East or 
 Eiver Front has at the ends projecting wings, each 120 feet in length, with towers 
 of beautiful design, leaving between them a terrace 700 feet long, and 33 feet wide. 
 The entire length is 940 feet. The wing-towers have crested roofs, and open-work 
 pinnacles, which, with those of the bays, carry gilded vanes. Between the principal 
 and one-pair floors is a rich band of sculpture, composed of the royal arms of England 
 in each reign, from William I. to Queen Victoria. The band below the principal floor 
 is inscribed with the date of each Sovereign's accession and decease ; and the panels 
 on each side of the coat-of-arms have sceptres and labels, with badges and inscriptions. 
 In the parapet of each bay is a niched figure of an angel bearing a shield. The 
 carved panels of the six oriel windows have the arms of Queen Victoria, to indicate 
 that the building was erected in her reign. The wing -towers, with their octagonal 
 stone pinnacles and perforated iron ornaments at their angles and crests, remind 
 one of the picturesque roofs of the chateaux and belfry-towers of the Low Countries. 
 
 The North Front has bays and buttresses similar to those of the River Front; the 
 bands are sculptured with the quarterings of the kings of England between the 
 Heptarchy and the Conquest, inscriptions and dates of accession, &c. ; while the 
 niches between the windows in each bay contain effigies of the Sovereigns whose arms 
 are below. This front terminates at the west with the Clock Tower and turreted 
 lantern spire. The height of this tower is 316 feet from high-water mark (Trinity 
 standard) to the top of the sceptre on its roof. The clock has the largest dials in the 
 world that is, where the clock is an integral portion of the design ; the only krger 
 one being that of Mechlin, the dial of which is of open metal-work, applied over, but 
 unconnected with the architecture. The roof is fully ornamented and finished with 
 gilding and colour to an extent not elsewhere to be seen in this country. For this 
 tower two great hour-bells were provided ; both of which were broken, as described at 
 p. 44. The weight of gold-leaf used in decorating the clock-tower up to June 30, 
 1857, was about 95 ounces; cost of gold-leaf 890/. 6s. 3d.; wages of artificers, 
 2291. lls. 3d. ; completion of the work, about 400?. The gold is pure, and treble 
 the thickness of ordinary gold-leaf. 
 
 The Clock was made by Mr. Dent, junior, from the designs of Mr. B. Denison, about 1855. The four 
 dials are 22 feet in diameter, and are considered to be the largest in the world, with a minute-hand, 
 which, on account of its great length, velocity, weight, friction, and the action of the wind upon it, 
 requires at least twenty times more force to drive it than the hour-hand. This clock goes for 8 days. 
 The great wheel of the going part is 27 inches in diameter; the pendulum is 15 feet long, and weighs 
 680 pounds ; and the scape-wheel, which is driven by the musical-box spring, weighs about half an 
 ounce. All the wheels, except the scape-wheel, are of cast-iron. The barrel is 23 inches in diameter, 
 but only 14 inches long, as it does not require a rope above a quarter of an inch thick. The second 
 wheel is 12 inches in diameter. The great wheels have all 180 teeth, the second wheel of the hour 
 striking part has 105, and a pinion of fifteen. The great wheels in the chiming part of the clock are 
 38i inches in diameter. The clock is said to be at least eight times as large as a full-sized cathedral 
 clock. It occupies its keepers two hours a week in winding it up. It goes with a rate of under one second 
 a week, in spite of any atmospheric changes. (Curiosities of Clocks and Watches, p. 205.) It reports 
 its own time to Greenwich by electrical connexion, and the clockmaker who takes care of it receives 
 Greenwich time by electricity, and sets the clock right whenever its error becomes sensible, which 
 seldom has to be done more than once a month. It may be relied on within less than one second a 
 week, which is seven times greater accuracy than was required in the original conditions. The entire 
 machinery of the clock occupies a space 16 feet long, by 5 feet in width, and its weight is over four tons. 
 An arrangement is also made which will admit of the wheels being taken out of the frame singly witb.- 
 
 U U 2
 
 660 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 out disturbing the others, and the clock is fitted with the patent gravity escapement of Mr. Dent. The 
 barrel is so constructed as that the hands will keep going while the clock is being wound up. The lines 
 of the clock are of patent wire rope, arid the pallets of the escapement are jewelled with sapphires, and 
 not with agate, as is usually the case. The minute-hand is 16 feet long, and, notwithstanding that it is 
 made of copper and beaten out as thin as is consistent with its length and strength, it still weighs 2 cwt. 
 The hour hand is nine feet long, and is fastened with the minute-hand to the centre of the dial by a 
 huge gilt rose (part of the arms of Westminster), which is about the size of a small dining-table. All 
 the interstices between the figures and work on the clock face are glazed in with enamelled glass, so as 
 to present the appearance of a white dial in the day and allow it to be illuminated during the night. 
 Each dial is lit with 60 gas jets, which are turned on and off by a peculiar adaptation of the clock-work. 
 The light in the dial thus wanes as day dawns and increases with the fading twilight. The cost of the 
 gas for this is 5001. per annum. The clock, altogether, cost more than 22,0001. 
 
 The South Front resembles the north, has similar decorations chronologically arranged, 
 and terminates westward with the Victoria Tower. 
 
 Saxon Zings and Queens at the South Front, commencing at the wing tower, and proceeding from 
 base to summit in each bay: Agatha, Harold II., Editha, Edward III., Hardicanute, Harold, Emma, 
 Canute, Elgiva, Edmund, Emma, Ethelred, Edward II., Elfleda, Edgar, Edwin, Edred, Elgina, Edmund, 
 Athelstan, Elfleda, Edward I., Elwitha, Alfred, Ethelred, Ethelbert, Ethelbald, Judith, Egbert, Ethel- 
 wolf; two kings of Mercia, Northumberland, East Anglia, Wessex, Essex, Kent, and Sussex; the whole 
 sculptured in stone by John Thomas. 
 
 The Victoria Tower is the largest and highest square tower in the world, being 75 
 feet square, and 336 feet high to the top of the pinnacle, and over 400 feet to the top 
 of the flag-staff. The foundation is of solid concrete, 9 feet 6 inches deep, with solid 
 brickwork over that, the whole inclosed and strengthened by piling. The building 
 was commenced April 2, 1842, and grew at the rate of 23 feet per year until completed; 
 it presses upon the foundation with a weight little short of 30,000 tons. The walls 
 are 12 feet thick up to the base of the first tier of windows, and thence 6 feet. The 
 storied windows are 44 feet high by 32 feet wide, and 5 feet deep. The figures, 
 which look so small and infantine in the niches on the sides, are colossal masses, nearly 
 10 feet high, and weighing many tons. The supporters of the coats of arms of our 
 kings are as large as horses ; and a well staircase of iron winds up in apparently endless 
 spirals, till the circling balustrade is merged together in the long perspective, termi- 
 nating at a dim bluish spot no bigger than your hand, which marks the outlet on to 
 the tower-roof. A person standing on the ground under the centre of the tower can 
 see up at a glance, as through a telescope, from the bottom to the top. The tower 
 is fireproof, and was intended to be used as a grand repository for the State papers, 
 records, and muniments of the nation; and for this purpose it is divided into eleven 
 stories, each of which, with the exception of the basement story and the first floor 
 immediately over it, contains sixteen fireproof rooms. The roof, though made as light 
 as is consistent with its safety from the wind, nevertheless weighs upwards of 400 
 tons. That little pierced parapet, which from the street looks scarce sufficient to 
 prevent a man from falling over, is actually sixteen feet high. The lions and crowns 
 on its battlemented top are more than six feet high, while even the gilt tops to the 
 four turrets, which from the ground are hardly distinguishable, are wrought-iron 
 crowns 5 feet 2 inches in diameter, and weighing one ton each. The roof, sixteen feet 
 above the parapet, is surrounded with a gilt railing six feet high, the four corners are 
 guarded by four stone lions twenty feet high ; and from the base of the corners spring four 
 cast-iron flying arched buttresses, formed in the centre in a kind of crown about thirty 
 feet above the roof. Here is the colossal flagstaff, of rolled sheet iron bolted together, 
 110 feet long, 3 feet in diameter at the base, and weighing between sixteen and 
 eighteen tons. The flag, 60 feet long by 45 feet broad, required upwards of 400 yards 
 of bunting to make it ; it has to be hauled up by machinery. The little turrets at 
 the corners reach ninety feet above the roof. They are divided into two stories, the 
 first or lower being about sixty feet above the roof; and here a low balcony, with stone 
 work breast-high, allows the visitor to come right out upon the outside of the turret and 
 walk around it. The view almost repays the effort made to reach it. All London 
 lies beneath you, looking like a diminished and smoky model of itself, in which some- 
 how the streets seem broader and more empty, and the houses lower and more regular, 
 than they ever appear to those on terra firma. On a clear day not only all London 
 can be seen from the summit of these pinnacles, but even all its suburbs, from Hounslow 
 to Shooter's-hill on one side, and from Harrow to the red bleak -looking downs beyond 
 Addington on the other. The portal is of sufficient capacity to admit the Royal State
 
 PARLIAMENT HOUSES. 661 
 
 coach to be driven to the foot of the staircase within the tower. Colossal statues of 
 the Lion of England, bearing the National Standard, flank the portal ; while carving, 
 rich and emblematical, adorns the walls and groined roof of the interior. High 
 above a rich quatrefoil band, differing in design, and containing heraldic badges, 
 foliage, and initials, comes the first tier of windows, with their rich tracery and lofty 
 two-centred arches. Above these windows are strange devices in the way of shields 
 and supporters, which here and there show the three lions passant guardant, supported 
 by such animals as are unknown to modern English heraldry. Nevertheless, these 
 are the Royal arms of England's former kings. Within the porch and over the arch- 
 way on the east side are niches, containing statues of the Guardian Saints of the United 
 Kingdom St. George of England, St. Andrew of Scotland, and St. Patrick of Ireland ; 
 while the similar archway on the north side, which forms the access to the Royal stair- 
 case has niches of accordant design, one containing a large statue of her Majesty Queen 
 Victoria in the centre, while those on either side contain allegorical figures of Justice 
 and Mercy. Recurring to the exterior of the Tower, immediately over the above great 
 entrance, as well as on the south side, is a row of rich niches, the centre one higher 
 than the rest, and containing a statue of the Queen ; while the others are occupied by 
 her Majesty's father and mother, the late Duke and Duchess of Kent, and other mem- 
 bers of the Royal Family. (Abridged chiefly from The Times journal.) 
 
 The West Front, towards New Palace-yard, is composed of bays divided by bold 
 buttresses, terminating in rich pinnacles. This land-front will hereafter embrace 
 the area of the present Law Courts. The niches of the buttresses will contain statues 
 of eminent commoners. The portion of this front complete, is that opposite Henry the 
 Seventh's Chapel, called St. Margaret's Porch ; and the gable of Westminster Hall. 
 which has been advanced southward, the great window being replaced, thus forms St. 
 Stephen's Porch, with much of the varied and piquant character of the Town-hall of 
 Louvain. The turrets contain statuettes of Edward III. and Queen Philippa, St. George 
 and St. Andrew, Henry VII. and Elizabeth of York, St. Patrick and St. Stephen. In 
 the gable are statuettes of Edward the Confessor and William Rufus, William IV. and 
 Queen Victoria ; and this fagade is richly sculptured with the Royal arms, the separate 
 insignia of England, Ireland, and Scotland, badges, &c. The whole composition should 
 be seen from Poet's Corner, and it combines well with Henry the Seventh's Chapel. 
 
 Between the Victoria Tower and St. Stephen's Porch is a range of buildings four 
 stories in height, with a central clock-tower 120 feet high. Besides the great towers 
 already named, oriels and turrets add effect to the sky-line of the building, whether 
 viewed from the exterior or from the courts. 
 
 The whole front from St. Stephen's Porch to Victoria Tower is appropriated for offices 
 of the House of Peers, including peers' private entrance and staircase, committee-rooms, 
 waiting-rooms, and the numerous other apartments required. It also includes a large 
 room to be called the Peers' Robing- Room, which is to be decorated in fresco by Mr. 
 Herbert, R.A. This is lighted from the top, and fitted up in oak, as is the case with 
 the other apartments. The frescoes will be eight in number, of large size, the 
 subjects Scriptural. 
 
 " The Palace of Westminster stands alone and matchless in Europe among the 
 architectural monuments of this busy age. From the border of the Thames, from 
 St. James's Park or Waterloo-place, from Piccadilly, or the bridge across the Ser- 
 pentine, the spectacle of that large square tower, of the central needle, and far away 
 of the more fantastic Bejfroi all grouping at every step in some different combi- 
 nation stamp the whole building as the massive conception of a master mind." 
 (Saturday Review!) 
 
 One of the Public Entrances to the Houses of Parliament is by St. Stephen's Stair- 
 case, ascending from St. Margaret's Porch : the bosses, panels, and decorative work of 
 the ceiling and the supporting arches are very elaborate ; the walls will be embellished 
 with frescoes. Westminster Hall forms the grand vestibule of approach from the 
 north. About midway, on the east side of the Hall, is the Members' Entrance to the 
 House of Commons, through the restored Cloisters of St. Stephen's : the fan-tracery 
 of the roof, and a small projecting chapel or oratory, are very beautiful. A cloister 
 built by Henry VIII. has been restored, as a relic of English mediaeval art. An upper
 
 662 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 cloister has been added, by which is a staircase to the House of Commons. Returning 
 to Westminster Hall, at the south end is a flight of steps to St. Stephen's Porch, 
 65 feet in height : the great central window is 48 feet high and 25 feet wide, and is 
 filled with stained glass, by Hardman, charged with the insignia of the Sovereigns of 
 England. On the right is the entrance from St. Stephen's Staircase, and on the left 
 is a superb doorway leading into St. Stephens' s Hall, 95 feet long by 30 feet wide, 
 and 56 feet high, reared upon the ancient Crypt of St. Stephen's, which has been 
 restored for use as the Palace Chapel. From the floor of St. Stephen's Hall there 
 is no one step throughout the whole extent, all is of one level. Next is 
 
 The Central Hall, an octagon 70 feet square, with the largest span of stone Gothic 
 roof, of similar form, in Europe : the height from the floor to the key-stone is 75 feet, 
 and the bosses measure 4 feet in diameter. The eight sides contain alternately great 
 doorways and windows, the latter to be filled with stained glass; and the niches 
 between the arches contain portrait and costume statues of the English Sovereigns and 
 their Queens, sculptured in Caen stone by John Thomas. Among the most striking 
 are William I. ; Henry I. ; Richard I. and his Queen ; King John ; Eleanor Queen of 
 Edward I. ; Edward III. and his Queen Philippa ; Henry V. and his Queen Katherine ; 
 Richard III. ; Henry VII. and his Queen Elizabeth. The encaustic-tile pavement is 
 very fine. Thence a corridor leads north to the Commons' Lobby and House of 
 Commons, and south to the Peers' Lobby and House of Peers. The archway west 
 communicates with St. Stephen's Hall : and the east leads to the Lower Waiting Hall ; 
 the Conference Hall, in the River Front ; and the Upper Waiting Hall, embellished 
 with frescoes, including the Patience of Griselda (from Chaucer), by Cope ; Disinheritance 
 of Cordelia by King Lear (from Shakspeare), by Herbert, R.A. ; the Temptation of 
 Adam and Eve (from Milton), by Horsley ; and St. Cecilia (from Dryden), by Tenniel. 
 
 The Electric Telegraph Office (opened April 1, 1853) is in the Central Hall; 
 whence wires are laid to the Company's Office and the metropolitan stations. The 
 north gable of Westminster Hall and the adjoining Law Courts, Sir Charles Barry* 
 proposed to make accord with this beautiful front ; New Palace Yard being inclosed 
 by parliamentary buildings, thus making it, by means of an important gateway looking 
 towards Whitehall, the entrance courtyard of the new Palace, as it was originally of 
 the old Palace of the time of Richard ll.f 
 
 THE ROYAL ENTRANCE is by the Victoria Tower, already described. At the summit 
 of the Royal Staircase is the Norman Porch, named from its statues of kings of the 
 Norman line, and frescoes of scenes from Anglo-Norman history ; its beautifully groined 
 roof and clustered columns, rich bosses and ribs, are of the same period. To the right 
 is the Queen's Robing-room, painted by Dyce, R.A., with frescoes allegorical of chivalry 
 fostering generous and religious feelings. Here are two frescoes in large panels, by 
 Maclise, R.A. : the Meeting of Wellington and Blucher after Waterloo j the Death of 
 Nelson one side only is completed ; Mr. Dyce died February 14, 1864. Next is the 
 Victoria or Royal Gallery, 110 feet in length by 45 feet in width, and 45 feet high j 
 to be decorated with frescoes from English history, an armorial band beneath the 
 stained-glass windows, and a panelled and superbly enriched ceiling. To this gallery 
 the public are admitted, by tickets (to be obtained of the Lord Great Chamberlain), to 
 view the procession of her Majesty to open and prorogue Parliament. 
 
 The Prince's Chamber, a kind of ante-room to the House of Lords, has the entrance- 
 
 * A very beautiful memorial tablet to perpetuate the memory of the late Sir Charles Barry has been 
 erected in the nave of Westminster Abbey, over the spot where the distinguished architect of the Houses 
 of Parliament lies buried ; and nearly adjoining the grave of the late Mr. Eobert Stephenson, to whom, 
 it will be remembered, a monumental brass, representing a full-length figure of the eminent engineer, 
 was inscribed a few years since. The memorial, which has been placed in the Abbey by the family of 
 the late Sir C. Barry, consists of a large cross let into a massive slab of black marble about 12 feet in 
 length by 5 feet in width, and the inscription on the cross is as follows : " Sacred to the memory of the 
 late Sir C. Barry, R.A., F.R.S., architect of the New Palace at Westminster and other buildings, who 
 died on the 12th of May, 1860, aged 64 years, and lies buried beneath this brass." The following text 
 is also inscribed round the outside of the marble slab : " Whatsoever ye do, do it heartily, as to the 
 Lord and not unto men, for ye serve the Lord Christ." Colossians iii. 23, 24. 
 
 t " The new Palace Yard being anciently enclosed by a wall, there were four gates therein, the only 
 one at present remaining is that on the east side leading to Westminster Stairs the three others which 
 were demolished were that on the north which led to Woolstaple, that on the west called Highgate, a 
 very beautiful and stately edifice, situate at the east end of Union-street : it was taken down in the year 
 1706, as was also the third at the north end of St. Margaret's-lane, anno 1731." Maitland 1739.
 
 PARLIAMENT HOUSES. 663 
 
 doorway richly decorated with the national arms, armorial roses and qnatrefoils ; and 
 opposite, on the north side, in a corresponding arch, is the statue of Queen Victoria, 
 with figures of Justice and Mercy, and bas-reliefs, by Gibson, R.A. Upon the walls 
 are twelve bas-reliefs, by Theed, carved in oak, of memorable events in Tudor history ; 
 and over these panels, are twenty -eight portraits of the same period, painted on a gold 
 ground. The frieze is enriched with oak-leaves and acorns, and armorial shields and 
 labels ; the windows are painted with the rose, thistle, and shamrock, and regal crowns ; 
 and the armorial ceiling and Tudor fire-places are dight with colour, gilding, and 
 sculpture. From the Prince's chamber we enter 
 
 THE HOUSE OF LOEDS, extremely rich in gilding, polychromy, wrought metal, and 
 carved work. Its dimensions are, length in the clear, 91 feet, breadth 45 feet, and 
 height 45 feet, so that it is a double cube. The walls are 3 feet 1 inch thick. East 
 and west are twelve lofty windows, six on either side, filled with painted-glass whole- 
 length portraits of the kings and queens, consort and regnant, of the United Kingdom : 
 six containing figures of the royal line of England before the union of the crowns ; 
 three, of the royal line of Scotland from Bruce to James VI.; and three, of the 
 Sovereigns of Great Britain from the reign of Charles I. The style of colouring in 
 these windows is that of 1450-1500. 
 
 At each end of the House are three archways, within which are these wall-frescoes : 
 
 Over the Throne : Edward III. conferring the Order of the Garter on the Black Prince; C. W. Cope, 
 R.A. The Baptism of St. Ethelbert; W. Dyee, R.A. Prince Henry acknowledging the authority of 
 Judge Gascoigne ; C. W. Cope, R.A. 
 
 Over the Strangers' Gallery: The Spirit of Justice; D. Maclise, R.A. The Spirit of Religion; J. C. 
 Horsley. The Spirit of Chivalry; D. Maclise, R.A. 
 
 Between the windows, archways, and in the corners, are canopied niches, with pedestals 
 supported by angels bearing shields charged with the arms of the eighteen barons who 
 obtained Magna Charta from King John, and whose bronze effigies occupy the niches. 
 Above these niches are segments of arches, which, as trusses, support the main arches 
 of the ceiling, and are elaborately pierced and carved. 
 
 The ceiling is flat, and divided into compartments containing lozenges charged with 
 devices and symbols : the royal monogram, the monograms of the Prince of Wales and 
 Prince Consort ; the cognisances of the white hart of Richard II. ; the sun of the 
 House of York ; the crown in a bush, Henry VII. ; the falcon, dragon, and greyhound ; 
 the lion passant of England, the lion rampant of Scotland, and the harp of Ireland ; 
 sceptres, orbs, and crowns; the scales of Justice; mitres and crosiers, and swords of 
 mercy ; coronets, and the triple plume of the Prince of Wales. Among the devices 
 are the rose of England and the pomegranate of Castile; the portcullis of Beaufort, 
 the lily of France, and the lion of England ; and the armorial shields of the Saxon 
 Heptarchy. The massive beams appear like solid gold : they are inscribed on the sides 
 with religious and loyal mottoes. 
 
 Beneath the windows, the walls are covered with oak panelling and carved busts of 
 the Sovereigns of England ; and above is the inscription " God save the Queen," in 
 Tudor characters. Thence springs a coving, in the southern division emblazoned with 
 the arms of lord chancellors and their Sovereigns, and northward with the bishops' 
 arms. This coving supports a gallery with wrought-metal railing, richly-carved panel- 
 ling, and pillars which support a brattishing. 
 
 The centre of the southern end of the House is occupied by the Throne, on either 
 side of which is a doorway leading to the Prince's Chamber. At the northern end of 
 the House, over the principal doorway, is the Strangers' Gallery, behind the Reporters' 
 Gallery, upon the front of which are painted the badges of the sovereigns of England ; 
 and over the archways are painted on shields the coat-armour of the Saxon, Norman, 
 Plantagenet, Tudor, Stuart, and Hanoverian Houses: the arms of the archiepiscopal 
 seesj and some of the bishoprics ; and in front of the gallery is a clock with an exqui- 
 sitely carved case and dial enamelled in colours. On the right of the Bar is the seat of 
 the Usher of the Black Rod. The Peers' seats (accommodating 235) are ranged 
 longitudinally from north to south. At the south end is the clerks' table ; and beyond 
 it are the woolsacks, covered with crimson cloth. At the north end is The Bar, a 
 dwarf screen, at which appear the Members of the House of Commons, and at which
 
 664 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 counsel plead. At the four angles of the area is a superb brass candelabrum, by 
 Hardman, 17 feet high, and weighing 11^ cwt. 
 
 THE ROYAL THRONE, at the south end, is elevated on steps (the centre three, and 
 the sides two), which are covered with a carpet of bright scarlet, powdered with white 
 roses and lions, and fringed with gold-colour. The canopy to the throne is in three 
 compartments : the central one, much loftier than the others, for her Majesty ; that on 
 the right hand for the Prince of Wales, and that on the left for the Prince Consort. 
 The back of the central compartment is panelled with lions passant, carved and gilded, 
 on a red ground ; and above are the royal arms of England, elaborately emblazoned, 
 surmounted by the royal monogram and " Dieu et mon droit," in perforated letters ; 
 and a brattishing of Greek crosses and fleur-de-lis crests. Above are the crests of 
 England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales, richly carved ; the ceiling bears the monogram 
 V. K. within an exquisite border, and the flat surfaces painted with stars. The span- 
 drels of the canopy, and the octagonal pillars with coronal capitals, are exquisitely 
 carved. In front of the canopy, above a brattishing of perforated Tudor flowers, are 
 five traceried ogee arches : in the central one is the figure of St. George and the 
 Dragon ; and in the two sides are knights of the Garter and Bath, the Thistle and St. 
 Patrick. The angle-buttresses of this canopy have coronal pendants ; on the fronts 
 and sides are animals, on the summits open-worked royal crowns. On the sides like- 
 wise are shields of the arms of England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales, beautifully 
 carved, painted, and gilded ; and upon pedestals are sitting figures of winged angels 
 holding shields enamelled with the arms of England. The side compartments of the 
 canopy have, the one the heraldic symbols of the Prince of Wales, and the other those 
 of Prince Albert, blended with the architectural features : they have covings, gilded, 
 and pedestals supporting a lion and unicorn holding shields of arms ; the angle-but- 
 tresses have coronal pendants, and the shafts are surmounted by crowns. On either 
 hand is a dwarf wing with pedestal, on which are seated the royal supporters, the lion 
 and unicorn, holding standards enamelled with the arms of England. 
 
 The Queen's Chair of State, or Throne, in general outline resembles " the coronation 
 chair :" the legs rest upon four lions couchant ; the base has quatrefoil panels, with 
 crowns and V. K.; sprays of roses, shamrocks, and thistles; and a broad bar of roses 
 and leaves : in the panels beneath the arms of the chair are lions passant and treillage ; 
 upon the back pinnacles are a lion and unicorn, seated, holding scrolls and flanking the 
 gable, within which is a circle of exquisitely quatre-foiled ornament, inclosing the 
 monogram V. R. ; the exterior ridge is carved with roses, and the apex surmounted 
 with a richly decorated crown. The back of the chair is bordered with large egg- 
 shaped pieces of crystal, within which are the royal arms of England, embroidered on 
 velvet. The Footstool has carved sides, and a crimson velvet top, gorgeously embroi- 
 dered with roses in a border of fleurs-de-lis. 
 
 The State Chairs for the Prince of Wales and Prince Consort are curule-shaped, 
 have circular-headed backs, embroidered on velvet with the ostrich triple-plume and 
 the shield of arms. The throne and footstool, and the two princes' chairs, are gilded 
 throughout. 
 
 The House of Peers was first occupied by their lordships April 15, 1847. 
 
 The Peers' Lobby is 38 feet square and 33 feet high, and has on either side a lofty 
 arch, above which are painted, within arches, the arms of the Saxon, Norman, Plan- 
 tagenet, Tudor, Stuart, and Hanoverian royal lines, each surmounted by a royal crown. 
 The north doorway opens into the House of Commons Corridor, the south doorway 
 opens into the House of Lords : the arch is boldly sculptured with Tudor roses, royally 
 crowned ; the inner arch is enriched with gilded oak-leaves. The space over is filled 
 with the royal arms, roses, thistles, and shamrocks, coloured and gilded. The gates 
 are of massive brass, by Hardman, and of richly floriated design, the frames studded 
 with Norman roses. These gates weigh l tons, are 11 feet high, and 6 feet wide; 
 and are of a material not used in England for such a purpose for nearly 400 years. 
 The side-wall compartments of the Lobby are filled with ogee arches ; and the upper 
 stories are windows, painted by Hardman, and Ballantyne, and Allan, with the arms of 
 the early families of the aristocracy of England. The roof is painted with roses,
 
 PARLIAMENT HOUSES. 665 
 
 thistles, and shamrocks, in squares, on a blue ground, and relieved with gilding. The 
 pavement is encaustic tiles, by Minton ; alleys of black marble, including " Dieu et 
 mon droit" in tiles, V. R., the lions of England, &c. ; and in the centre is a Tudor rose 
 of Derbyshire marble, bordered with engraved brass. At each corner of the lobby is a 
 magnificent gas-standard, about 12 feet high. 
 
 The Peers' Libraries are a magnificent suite of rooms ; above the oak book-shelves 
 is a frieze, with panels of the arms of the Chief Justices of England. The Peers' 
 Holing -room it is proposed to decorate with frescoes illustrating Human Justice and 
 its development in Law and Judgment, by Herbert, R.A. The one executed is in 
 water-glass; the subject, Moses bringing down the Second Tables of the Law, oc- 
 cupied the painter three years : size 22 feet by 10 feet 6 inches ; figures life-size. 
 
 Returning to the Peers' Lobby, the archway on the north side gives access to the 
 Peers' Corridor, corresponding with the Commons' Corridor immediately opposite in 
 the Central Hall, the walls of which are panelled for frescoes, some of which have 
 been completed. The decorations of the Corridors leading from the Central Hall, 
 to the Houses of Lords and Commons, are as follows : 
 
 The Peer*' Corridor. C. W. Cope, E.A., The Burial of Charles I. ; The Parting of Lord and Lady 
 Russell ; Expulsion of the Fellows of a College at Oxford for refusing 1 to sign the Covenant ; The Em- 
 barkation of the Pilgrim Fathers for New England ; The Defence of Basing House; The setting out of 
 the Train Bands from London to relieve Gloucester; Charles I. erecting his standard at Nottingham. 
 
 The Commons' Corridor. E. M. Ward, E.A., Alice Lisle assisting the Fugitives to Escape after the 
 Battle of Sedgmoor; Jane Lane assisting Charles II. to Escape after the Battle of Worcester; The 
 Last Sleep of Argyle; The Execution of Montrose; The Landing of Charles II. at Dover. 
 
 The Central Sail has been already described. Leaving this through an arched 
 doorway on the west side, we enter St. Stephen's Sail, which occupies the site 
 of the old St. Stephen's Chapel. The Hall has a beautiful stone vaulting, the 
 bosses of which have subjects from the life of St. Stephen ; its windows are filled with 
 appropriate glass, and on pedestals are marble statues of Selden, Foley, R.A. j 
 Hampden, Foley, R.A. j Lord Falkland, Bell ; Lord Clarendon, Marshall, R.A. ; Lord 
 Somers, Marshall, R.A. ; Sir Robert Walpole, Bell ; Lord Chatham, M'Dowell, R.A. ; 
 Lord Mansfield, Baily, R.A. ; Burke, Theed; Fox, Baily, R.A.j Pitt, M'Dowell, R.A ; 
 Grantham, Carew. A small staircase at one end leads to St. Stephen's Crypt, de- 
 scribed at p. 304. In the niches of the doorway to St. Stephen's Hall are twelve 
 statues of early Kings and Queens. We leave the Hall for St. Stephen's Porch, 
 whence a fine view is obtained of Westminster Hall, which it was proposed by Sir 
 Charles Barry to make an antechamber to the House of Legislature. By a beautiful 
 new doorway on the east side we enter the Cloisters of St. Stephen's, which have been 
 restored and enlarged. From the upper Cloister by the Lobby we enter 
 
 THE HOUSE OF COMMONS, 75 feet long, 45 feet wide, and 41 feet high ; the size 
 being as small as possible for speaking and hearing without effort during the average 
 attendance of Members, about 300. The twelve side windows are painted with the 
 arms of boroughs, by Hardman ; and at each end is a stone screen filled with brass 
 tracery. The ceiling has the sides and ends inclined, and the centre flat : it is divided 
 by massive ribs into compartments, which are filled with ground-glass tinted with the 
 rose, portcullis, and floriated circles; behind were originally placed the gas-lights, 
 with Faraday's patent ventilation, cutting off connexion between the gas and the air 
 of the apartment, the vitiated air being conveyed away by tubes into a chamber above 
 the ceiling. The artificial light is now supplied from the chamber above the ceilings, 
 in which about 1000 feet of gas are consumed per hour in the evening sittings ; none 
 of the products of combustion escape into the House. The floor of the House is of 
 perforated cast iron, covered with matting, through which hot and cold air are admitted. 
 
 The Ventilation at present adopted in the two Houses is that of exhaustion, the air being put in 
 motion by means of heat applied by coke-fires in great upcast shafts, the two chief being in the Victoria 
 Tower and the Clock Tower. Under as well as above ground are hundreds of air-courses ; some for 
 supplying cold air, others for warm air, others for carrying off vitiated air. There are in this great 
 palace steam-pipes, of which the aggregate length is about 15 miles, and 1200 stop-cocks and valves 
 connected with these pipes. Taking the House that sits longest, we learn from Dr. Percy's able Report, 
 that the air for the House of Commons is admitted from the Star Court and the Commons Court ; it is 
 strained through gauze, and then warmed when necessary by Gurney's batteries ; after which it ascends 
 through the floor of the House. Dr. Percy tells us that, although a great number of minor details are
 
 666 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 defective and need completion, yet all appliances for effective ventilation exist; experiments have 
 demonstrated that the supply of fresh air passing through the Houses under varying conditions has 
 generally exceeded the proportion declared by the highest authorities to be amply sufficient. Satisfactory 
 as this may be, Dr. Percy reminds us that too much fresh air cannot be supplied, provided its tempera- 
 ture and its state as to moisture be suitable, and no draught be perceptible a condition which should 
 be regarded as a fundamental principle in every so-called system of ventilation. While in some instances 
 the complaints made may be well founded, it is pretty certain that in other instances they resulted from 
 the special bodily conditions of the individuals making them ; as the state of the stomach as to the 
 quantity of food which it contains, the amount of alcoholic liquor circulating through the system, the 
 muscular exertion which the body may have recently undergone, as well as the condition of mental 
 exertion or excitement, will greatly modify our impressions as to the agreeableness of the temperature 
 and the perfection of the ventilation. 
 
 It is impossible to burn the House down : you might set fire to and destroy the furni- 
 ture and fittings ; but the flooring, walls, and roof would remain intact. The walls 
 are panelled with oak two-thirds up, carved with the linen-pattern, armorial shields, 
 pendants, foliated mouldings, and brattishings. Upon three sides are galleries for 
 Members and Strangers ; the Reporters' Gallery being at the north end, over the 
 Speaker's Chair, a sort of canopied throne elaborately carved with the royal arms, &c. 
 Behind the brass tracery above the Reporters' Gallery is a gallery for ladies. At the 
 northern end of the House is The Bar, temporarily formed by sliding rods of brass ; 
 and here is the special seat of the Serjeant-at-arms. The Ministerial seats are on the 
 front bench to the right of the Speaker, the leaders of the Opposition occupying the 
 front bench opposite. Below the Speaker's Chair is the Clerks' Table, whereon, during 
 the business of the House, is placed the Speaker's Mace ; not, as generally supposed, 
 " the fool's bauble" which Cromwell ordered to be taken away, but the mace made at 
 the Restoration. Along both sides of the House are the Division Lobbies, " Ayes" 
 west, and " Noes" east; these being oak -panelled corridors, with stained-glass windows: 
 the chandeliers are of chased brass. 
 
 The Commons first assembled in their new House February 3, 1852 ; eight days 
 after which (February 11), Mr. Barry received knighthood. 
 
 The Commons Lobby is a rich apartment 45 feet square, and has on each side an 
 archway ; carved open screens inscribed " Domine salvam fac Reginam ;" and windows 
 painted with the arms of parliamentary boroughs : the brass gas-standards, by Hard- 
 man, are elaborately chased. The doorways lead to the Library, the Post-office, 
 Vote-paper Office, Central Hall, &c. The Libraries are fitted with dark oak. The 
 Refreshment Rooms for the Peers and Commons are similarly arranged, and respec- 
 tively are divided by a carved oak screen. 
 
 The public are admitted to view both Houses of Parliament, and all the public 
 portion of the New Palace of Westminster, every Saturday between 10 and 4 o'clock, 
 during the session, by tickets ; which are obtainable on Saturdays, between 11 and 4 
 o'clock, at the Office of the Lord Great Chamberlain, in the Royal Court. 
 
 Admission to hear the Debates : Lords A Peer's order ; Commons Any Mem- 
 ber's, or the Speaker's, order. The House of Lords is open to the public, without 
 ticket, during the hearing of Appeals. 
 
 The Speaker's House occupies part of the two pavilions, forming the end of the 
 river front of the Palace, next Westminster Bridge, and is approached by archways 
 from Palace-yard. It comprises from sixty to seventy rooms, and is finished 
 throughout in the style of the structure generally. The staircase, with its carvings, 
 tile-paving, and brass-work, is exceedingly effective and elegant, and everywhere there 
 is a large amount of painted and gilded decoration. Cloisters, approached from the 
 House, surround a court about 20 feet square : the window openings in the cloisters 
 are filled with stained glass, containing the arms of all the Speakers, with the date of 
 election. The principal floor includes the State dining-room ; the drawing-room, 
 37 feet 3 inches by 28 feet 9 inches ; morning-room, 34 feet 6 inches by 23 feet 9 inches; 
 and a smaller dining-room, 34 feet by 24 feet 6 inches. The State dining-room is 
 45 feet by 23 feet 6 inches. Frames are set in the walls to receive a collection of portraits 
 of past Speakers. The rooms are lighted at night by wax-candles in corona? ; to light 
 the four rooms requires 400 wax-candles. 
 
 A Descriptive Handbook for the Pictures in the Houses of Parliament, by T. J. 
 Gullick, Painter (published by authority), will at once satisfy the requirements of 
 artists and the general public : the accounts of the Pictures are written with care
 
 PATERNOSTER-ROW. 667 
 
 and discrimination. And a Guide to the Palace is printed by permission of the Lord 
 Great Chamberlain, and published by Warrington and Co. 
 
 PA TERNOSTER-RO W t 
 
 "DETWEEN the north side of St. Paul's Churchyard, and the south of Newgate- 
 D street, is one of a knot of monastic localities ; and is named from the turners of 
 rosaries, or Pater Nosters (tenth beads), dwelling there, with stationers or text-writers, 
 who wrote and sold ABC, with the Pater Noster, Ave, Creed, Graces, &c., in the reign 
 of Henry IV. Hatton describes it 1708 " between Cheapside Conduit east, and Amen- 
 corner west; and the name, as also those of Ave-Maria-lane (at its west end), Creed-lane 
 (in Ludgate- street, opposite), and Amen-corner, given by reason of the religious houses 
 formerly of Black and Gray Friars, between which these streets are situated." Pater- 
 noster-row was next " taken up " by mercers, silkmen, and lacetnen : we read of Pepys, 
 in 1660 buying here " moyre for a morning waistcoat ;" and the street was ofttimes 
 blocked up with the coaches of the nobility and gentry. But few names of publishers 
 are met with as carrying on business in Paternoster-row before the Great Fire : one of 
 these is " R. Harford, in Queen's-head-alley, Paternoster-row, 1642," and another, 
 "Christopher Meredith, Crane-alley, Paternoster-row." After the Great Fire, the 
 mercers mostly migrated westward, as to Holy well -street and Covent Garden ; but 
 in a periodical of 1707 we read of " the sempstresses of Paternoster-row :" and Strype, 
 in 1720, enumerates among its inhabitants tire-women, mercers, and silkmen. Here 
 lived Alderman Thomas, the mercer, whose shop bore the motto of Sir William Turner, 
 " Keep your shop, and your shop will keep you." (Spectator, No. 509.) Strype also 
 mentions " at the upper end, some stationers and large warehouses for booksellers ;" 
 but we find, as early as 1564, that Henry Denham, bookseller, lived at the Star, in 
 Paternoster-row, with the motto, Os homini sublime dedit. In the reign of Queen 
 Anne the booksellers removed here from Little Britain ; and, from about 1774, the 
 trade became changed to publishing books in " Paternoster-row numbers." Among 
 their publishers were Harrison, Cook, and the Hoggs ; to the latter succeeded their 
 shopman, Thomas Kelly, Alderman of Farringdon Within, and Lord Mayor, 1836-7. 
 
 Here was the printing-office of Henry Sampson Woodfall, the printer of the Public 
 Advertiser, wherein originally appeared Junius's Letters. 
 
 At " the Bible and Crown " (the sign boldly carved in wood, coloured and gilt, in the 
 string-course above the window), lived the Rivingtons, the High-Church publishers, from 
 1710 to 1853: here they continued the Annual Register, originally Dodsley's, with Edmund 
 Burke as a contributor; and here, in 1791, the Rivingtons commenced the British Critic : 
 but " the old shop," where Horsley and Tomline, Warburton and Hurd, used to meet, 
 was, in 1854, altered to a " shawl emporium." At No. 47 lived Robert Baldwin, pub- 
 lisher of the London Magazine, commenced 1732. The premises are now the publishing- 
 house of Messrs. William and Robert Chambers, of Edinburgh : the former Lord 
 Provost, 1866. Here the Robinsons established themselves 1763, the head of the firm 
 being " King of the Booksellers :" here they published the Annual Register, with a 
 .sale of 7000 copies each volume; and the unsatisfactory Biographical Dictionary, by 
 Alexander Chalmers. At No. 39 have lived nearly a century and a half the Long- 
 mans ; the imprint of Thomas Longman, with Thomas and John Osborne, at the sign of 
 " the Ship and Black Swan," is dated 1725 ; and the same year we find a book of 
 Whiston's bearing the same names, although an edition of Rowe's Dramatic Works, 
 2 vols., 1725, is stated to be the earliest book with Longman's imprint. Here was 
 commenced the original Cyclopaedia, by Ephraim Chambers, upon which was based the 
 New Cyclopcedia of Dr. Rees. For several years the firm gave here dinners and soirees 
 to authors and artists ; and they have acquired world-wide repute as the publishers of 
 the works of Scott, Mackintosh, Southey, Sydney Smith, Moore, and Macaulay. 
 Messrs. Longman's own sale of books has amounted to five millions of volumes in the 
 year. They possess some portraits of eminent literary persons. 
 
 The premises were rebuilt in handsome Renaissance style in 1863 ; the design in- 
 cluding the rebuilding of the adjoining house of Messrs. Blackwood and Sons, of Edin-
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 burgh, at the extreme north-west corner. The fafade is executed in Portland stone. The 
 character of the carving, especially of the lower stories, is somewhat symbolical natural 
 foliage. On the key-stone of the central arch is represented Literature supported by 
 the Arts, Sciences, and Education. In the spandrels of the same are the " Ship" and 
 the " Swan," being half-size copies of two medallions, saved from the old buildings, 
 and which had been trade signs or parts of these premises since the Great Fire. 
 
 No. 33, Hamilton, Adams, and Co., has been rebuilt in handsome style ; also No. 
 23, Kent and Co. No. 56, the Depot of the Keligious Tract Society, was erected 
 in 1844, at a cost of 12.000Z. : the handsome stone frontage, of 120 feet, is in the 
 Italian style. The Society commenced operations, in 1799, with a small handbill ; its 
 annual distribution of books and tracts in 1853 was nearly 26 millions, and its gross 
 income 9497Z. ; in 1866, circulation 46,000,000. The Society issues five illustrated 
 periodicals, including the Leisure Sour and the Sunday at Some. 
 
 No. 50, long the Chapter Coffee-house, described at pp. 263-4, was closed as a coffee- 
 house, in December, 1853 ; having been for a century and more the resort of authors, 
 booksellers, and politicians : the bouse is referred to in the correspondence of Chatterton. 
 
 " A contemporary anecdote exhibits Goldsmith paymaster, at the Chapter Coffee-house, for Churchill's 
 friend, Charles Lloyd, who, in his careless way, without a shilling to pay for the entertainment, had 
 invited him to sup with some Meads of Grub-street." Forster's Life of G-oldsmith, p. 232. 
 
 Between Paternoster-row and Newgate-street is Newgate Market : here, in 1709 
 (Tatler, No. 44), was exhibited the Groaning Board : 
 
 "At the sign of the Woolsack, in Newgate Market, is to be seen a strange and wonderful elm-board ; 
 wbkhbeing touched with a hot iron, doth express itself as if it were a man dying with groans, &c. It 
 been presented to the king and his nobles, and hath given great satisfaction." Advertisement. 
 
 Panyer-alley, conjectured to have been named from its having been the standing of 
 bakers with their paniers, when bread was only sold in markets, and not in shops or 
 houses, is described at pp. 416 and 614. 
 
 At " the sign of the Castle," in Paternoster-row, Tarlton, Queen Elizabeth's favourite 
 stage-clown, kept an ordinary, stated to have been on the site of Dolly's chop-house. 
 " The Castle," of which a token exists, was destroyed in the Great Fire, but was re- 
 built ; and here " the Castle Society of Music " performed. The premises were sub- 
 sequently the Oxford Bible Warehouse, destroyed by fire in 1822, and rebuilt. 
 
 Warwick-lane and Ivy-lane are noticed at p. 614. 
 
 There are likewise a Paternoster-row and Little Paternoster-row in Spitalfields, 
 where was formerly the Priory of St. Mary Spittle. 
 
 PUNTONriLLE, 
 
 A DISTRICT of St. James's parish, was originally a field of the Clerkenwell 
 Nunnery. It was in part the estate of Henry Peiiton, Esq. ; and when the New- 
 road was formed through it, White Conduit House, and the house attached to Dobney's 
 Bowling-green, were almost the only buildings here. One of the earliest was Hermes 
 House (in Hermes-street), built by Dr. de Valangin (a pupil of Boerhaave), who lived 
 to see Penton's mile or town rising around him. Here lived the noted William Hunt- 
 ington, S.S., when he married the widow of Sir James Sanderson, Bart., ex-Lord 
 Mayor. Upon the north side of the New-road (Pentonville-hill) is St. James's 
 Chapel, built 1788 : it has a clever altar-picture of Christ raising the damsel Tabitha. 
 Below the Chapel is the London Female' Penitentiary, established 1807. In Regent- 
 terrace died the popular sporting writer, Pierce Egan, in 1849, at the full age of 77 : 
 and in Penton-place lived Grimaldi, " Old Joe," born in Stanhope-street, Clare-market, 
 in 1778, the year preceding that in which Garrick died. 
 
 Gerard, in his Serial, edit. 1633, describes certain kinds of orchis growing in dry 
 pastures and heaths, and upon chalky hills, and " plentifully in sundry places, as in the 
 field by Islington, near London, where there is a bowling-green, under a few old 
 shrubby oaks." The spot alluded to seems to have been Winchester-place, now the 
 Pentonville-road. Thomas Cooke, the notorious miser, lived here.
 
 PICCADILLY. 669 
 
 PICCADILLY, 
 
 A LEADING street, 110 yards less than a mile in length, extends, in a line with 
 iA. Coventry-street, from the north end of the Haymarket westward to Hyde Park 
 Corner. The name is derived from the ruffs, called " pickadils " or " peccadilloes," 
 worn by the gallants of James I. and Charles I. ; and the stiffened points of which re- 
 sembled spear-heads, or picardills, a diminutive of pica, spear, Spanish and Italian. 
 Blount, in his GlossograpUa (1656), interprets it as the round hem about the edge or 
 skirt of a garment, and a stiff collar or band for the neck and shoulders ; whence the 
 wooden peccadilloes (the pillory) in Hudibras. Hence the first house built in the road 
 may have been named " from its being the utmost or skirt house of the suburbs that 
 way ;" and may not the name have originated from the pillory having been often set 
 up in this suburb or open ground ? Mr. Peter Cunningham took considerable pains to 
 unravel this question. Pennant traces the name to Piccadillas, turnovers or cakes, 
 which may have been sold in the suburban fields. Others say it took name from this : 
 " that one Higgins, a tailor, who built it, got most of his estate by piccadillas." But 
 the name occurs many years earlier than the mention of the first house, or Piccadilly 
 House : thus Gerard, in his Herbal (1596), states that " the small wild bu-glosse 
 growes upon the drie ditch-bankes about Pickadilla." The road is referred to, in 
 Stow's narrative of Sir Thomas Wyat's rebellion in 1554, as " the highway on the hill 
 over gainst St. James's ;" and in Aggas's Map (1560) it is lettered, " The Waye to 
 Eedinge." The upper part of the Haymarket, and the fields adjoining north and 
 west, were the Pickadilly of the Restoration. Evelyn quotes the Commissioners' 
 orders, July 13, 1662, to pave " the Haymarket about Pigudello;" and tradesmen's 
 tokens of this date bear " Pickadilla " and " Pickadilly." 
 
 Piccadilly Hall appears to have been built by one Robert Baker, " in the fields 
 behind the Mews," leased to him by St. Martin's parish, and sold by his widow to 
 Colonel Panton, who built Panton-square, and Panton- street. Lord Clarendon, in his 
 History of the Rebellion, speaks of " Mr. Hyde going to a house called Piccadilly for 
 entertainment and gaming :" this house, with its gravel walks and bowling-greens, ex- 
 tended from the corner of Windmill-street and the site of Panton-square, as shown in 
 Porter and Faithorne's Map, 1658. Mr. Cunningham found (see Handbook, 2nd edit. 
 p. 396), in the parish accounts of St. Martin's, Robte Backer, of Pickadilley Halle ;" 
 and the receipts for Lammas money paid for the premises as late as 1670. Sir John 
 Suckling, the poet, was one of the frequenters ; and Aubrey remembered Suckling's 
 " sisters coming to the Peccadillo bowling-green, crying, for the feare he should lose all 
 their portions." The house was taken down about 1685 : a tennis-court in the rear 
 remained to our time, upon the site of the Argyll Rooms, Great Windmill-street. The 
 Society of Antiquaries possess a printed proclamation (temp. Charles II. 1671) against 
 the increase of buildings in Windmill-fields and the fields adjoining Soho; and in the 
 Plan of 1658, Great Windmill-street consists of straggling houses, and a windmill in a 
 field on the west side. The spacious house upon the east side was built for Dr. William 
 Hunter in 1770 : it had an amphitheatre and a magnificent museum (see p. 597). He 
 died here March 30, 1783. At the north-east end of the Haymarket stood the 
 gaming-house built by the barber of the Earl of Pembroke, and hence called Shaver's 
 Hall : it is described by Gerard, in a letter to Lord Strafford in 1635, as " a new 
 Spring Gardens, erected in the fields beyond the Mews :" its tennis-court remained in 
 James-street, until 1867, when it was altered for another occupation. 
 
 From Piccadilly being applied to the Hall and the buildings in the fields north 
 and west of the Haymarket (in " Dogs-fields, Windmill-fields, and the fields adjoining 
 Soho"), early maps show the name to have been extended to the line of street to 
 Swallow-street, where begins Portugal-street, named after Catherine of Braganza, 
 queen of Charles II. : in an Act 3 James II. is named " the mansion-bouse of the Earl 
 of Burlington, fronting Portugal-street ;" but that it was considered a subordinate 
 street, is shown by Wren having made the principal front of St. James's Church face 
 Jermyn-street, with its handsome Ionic door. The name of Piccadilly, however, be- 
 came gradually extended to the whole line. Hatton, 1708, describes Piccadilly as
 
 670 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 between Coventry-street and the end of the Haymarket, and Portugal-street. Until 
 1721 the road was mostly unpaved, and coaches were often overturned in the hollow. 
 The line from Devonshire House westward was, until the year 1740, chiefly occupied 
 by the figure-yards of statuaries, where also " numberless wretched figures were 
 manufactured in lead for gardens."* About this time an adjoining field was bought by 
 a brewer for his empty butts at 301., and sold in 1764 for 2oOOl. (Malcolm.) In 1757 
 a tract of ground was leased to James Hamilton, Esq., who built thereon Hamilton- 
 place. 
 
 Hamilton-place is called after James Hamilton, Esq., Banger of Hyde Park in the reign of 
 Charles II., and the elder Hamilton of De Grammont's Memoirs. No. 1, in 1813, was inhabited by 
 Lady Catherine Tylney Long : 
 
 " Long may Long Tylney Wellesley Long Pole live." 
 
 In 1818, this house passed to Lord Chancellor Eldon. No. 4, in 1814, passed to the great Duke of 
 Wellington, whose London house it was when the Battle of Waterloo was won by this fine genius for 
 war. In this house, the bibliopole, Mr. Grenville, collected the fine Library bequeathed by him to the 
 British Museum. (See page 584) No. 5 was bought by Mr. Joseph Denison, M.P., for 10,000 guineas, and 
 presented to his sister, Marchioness of Conyngham, who assembled here a fine collection of china; she 
 died in 1861, aged 92. At No. 7, Mr. John Philip Miles, of Leigh Court, made his collection of pictures of 
 the Italian school. This same No. 7 was afterwards inhabited by the late Mr. H. A. J. Munro, of Novar, 
 and the rooms refitted with another fine collection of pictures. Here were to be seen the celebrated 
 " Madonna del Candelabri," of Raffaelle, some noble landscapes by Turner, and a View of Venice, by 
 Bonington. No one house that I can call to mind, has held two private collections of pictures equally 
 famous as were once to be seen at No. 7. Peter Cunningham; Builder, March 4, 1865. 
 
 Westward was The Hercules Pillars, which, with other noted Piccadilly inns, is 
 described at p. 455. In one of these petty taverns at Hyde Park Corner, Sir Richard 
 Steele and the poet Savage dined together, after having written a pamphlet, which 
 Savage sold for two guineas, to enable them to pay the reckoning. Among the strag- 
 gling houses here was the school kept by a Roman Catholic convert named Deane, 
 where Pope spent nearly two years of his boyhood; and got up a play out of Homer, 
 the part of Ajax being performed by the gardener. 
 
 "Towards Hide Park" was Winstanley's mathematical water-theatre, mentioned 
 in the Tatler, No. 74 (Sept. 29, 1709) : it had a windmill at the top ; and the quantity 
 of water used in the exhibition was from 200 to 300 tuns, " with which curious effects 
 produced by hydraulic pressure were exhibited in the evening." Evelyn speaks of 
 Winstanley, who built the first Eddystone Lighthouse; and of another mechanical 
 genius, Sir Samuel Morland, who writes from his " hut near Hyde Park Gate." 
 
 NOBTH SIDE. Apsley House, east of Hyde Park Gate, is described at pp. 541-543. 
 No. 142, Lord Willoughby de Eresby's mansion, was sold in 1866 for 25,250^., crown 
 lease, forty years ; in the same year its works of art realized upwards of 9000?. 
 At No. 145, the Marquis of Northampton, as President of the Royal Society, gave his 
 conversazioni. No. 147, the Baron Lionel de Rothschild's (see p. 547), is partly built 
 upon the site of the mansion of William Beckford, the author of Vathek. At 
 Nos. 138 and 139, Piccadilly, lived the Duke of Queensbury, " Old Q.," the voluptuous 
 millionaire, who died at the age of eighty-six. At No. 138, in 1865, was dispersed 
 the valuable collection formed by the late Earl of Cadogan of plate ; Sevres, Chelsea, 
 Dresden, and other porcelain; antiquities, and objects of art and virtu, many of 
 historic interest ; the old silver plate brought from one to three guineas per oz. 
 
 No. 137, Gloucester House, is described at p. 549. Next is Park Lane, formerly 
 Tyburn-lane. Twenty years since, or thereabout, the Duke of Wellington was 
 walking up the narrow roadway of Park-lane, when, opposite Gloucester House, a 
 carter came along with a country wagon and team of horses : he called to the Duke, 
 who, being very deaf, did not hear the man, who had very nearly, with his wain, 
 thrown down and driven over the hero of a hundred fights. Opposite, in the Green 
 Park, was the Deputy-Ranger's Lodge, built by Robert Adam, 1768, taken down, 
 1841 ; the pair of graceful stags upon the gate-piers, placed there by Lord William 
 Gordon, when Deputy -Ranger, was removed to the piers of Albert Gate, Hyde Park. 
 
 * East of Hertford House, " near the Queen's Mead House, in Hyde-park-road," was the leaden 
 figure-yard established by John Van Nost, who came to England with King William III. _ A favourite 
 garden-figure was an African kneeling with a snn-dial on liis head, such as we see to this day in the 
 garden of Clement's Inn, and commonly said to have been brought from Italy by Lord Clare !
 
 PICCADILLY. 671 
 
 At the corner of Down-street (leading to MAY FAIE, see p. 564), is the mansion of 
 Mrs. Hope, described at p. 551 ; and further east, No. 106, COVENTRY HOTTSE 
 (see p. 246), closed as a club, March, 1854; No. 105, HERTFORD HOUSE, p. 550; 
 No. 94, CAMBRIDGE HOUSE, p. 547; No. 82, BATH HOUSE, p. 544; DEVONSHIRE 
 HOUSE, p. 548.* 
 
 Mr. Hope died at his mansion, in Piccadilly. He was the eldest son of the wealthy capitalist of 
 Amsterdam (the author of Anastasiui), by Miss Beresford, youngest daughter of Lord Decies, Archbishop 
 of Tuam, who married secondly the late Marshal Viscount Beresford. He was consequently brother of 
 Mr. Adrian Hope, of the banking firm at Amsterdam, and of Mr. Alexander Beresford Hope. He sat in 
 Parliament for East Looe and Gloucester, and was a Conservative in politics. His only child married, 
 in 1861, the Earl of Lincoln, now Duke of Newcastle. Mr. Hope was one of the earliest promoters 
 of the London and Westminster Joint-Stock Bank; and the first Chairman of the Great Eastern Steam- 
 ship Company. 
 
 Half -moon-street was built in 1730, and was named from the Half-moon Ale-house 
 at the corner. Clarges-street was built 1717-18, and named from Sir Walter Clarges. 
 At the south-west corner is the mansion of the Duke of Grafton, designed by Sir 
 Kobert Taylor : here is the magnificent Louvre portrait of Charles I. on his horse, by 
 Vandyke. At No. 12, Clarges-street, lived for eight years Edmund Kean, the tragedian, 
 who kept in the house a tame puma. Next door, at No. 11, lived Lady Hamilton at 
 the time of Lord Nelson's death.f Bolton-street was in 1708 "the most westerly 
 street in London, between the road to Knightsbridge south, and the fields north" 
 (Hatton). Here lived the Earl of Peterborough, who, in his autobiography (for- 
 tunately never printed), confesses having committed three capital crimes before he was 
 twenty years of age. 
 
 No. 80, Piccadilly, was the house from which Sir Francis Burdett was taken into 
 custody, April 6, 1810, by the Serjeant-at-Arms, after a resistance of four days: 
 
 " The lady she sate and she played on her lute, 
 
 And she sung, ' Will you come to the bower?' 
 The serjeant-at-arms had stood hitherto mute, 
 And now he advanced, like an impudent brute, 
 
 And said, ' Will you come to the Tower ?' " 
 
 In the riot which ensued, the Life Guards charged the mob, whence they got the flash 
 sobriquet " Piccadilly Butchers." 
 
 Stratton-street was named from the Stratton line of the Berkeleys, on whose estate 
 it was built. No. 1 was the mansion of Mrs. Coutts, the widow of the rich banker, 
 and afterwards Duchess of St. Albans, " who brought back the dukedom to the point 
 from which it set out the stage " (Leigh Hunt). By her grace the mansion was 
 bequeathed, with the greater portion of her immense wealth, to Miss Angela Burdetfc 
 Coutts, youngest daughter of Sir Francis Burdett, Bart. 
 
 Berkeley-street, built in 1642, and then the extremity of Piccadilly, was named from 
 Berkeley House, on the site of Devonshire House. Dover-street was built about 1688, 
 upon the estate of Henry Jermyn, Lord Dover, who resided on the east side ; as did 
 John Evelyn, who had been " oftentimes so cheerful, and sometimes so sad, with 
 Chancellor Hyde " on that very ground. On the west side lived Dr. John Arbuthnot, 
 physician to Queen Anne, " Martinus Scriblerus," and the friend of Pope, Swift, Gay, 
 and Prior. No. 37, sculptured with a mitre, is the town-house of the Bishop of Ely. 
 At No? 38 lived Lord King, who wrote a life of his profound kinsman, John Locke ; 
 published 1829. Albemarle-street was built by Sir Thomas Bond, of Peckham, oil 
 part of the site of Clarendon House. In 1708 it was " a street of excellent new 
 buildings, inhabited by persons of quality, between the fields and Portugal-street." 
 
 "The earliest date now to be found upon the site of Clarendon House is cut in stone, and let into 
 the south wall of a public-house, the sign of The Duke of Albemarle in Dover-street, thus : ' This is 
 
 * The ticket of admission to the performances of the Guild of Literature and Art (first given at 
 Devonshire House, 1851), was designed by E. M. Ward, A.B.A. On the left is Eichard Wilson, the 
 painter, with a picture under his arm, entering a pawnbroker's shop. On the right is Daniel Defoe 
 coming out of Edmund Curll's shop, with the manuscript of Robinson Crusoe in his hand : his wife is 
 inquiring as to his success in selling the manuscript, and her little girl is standing in front. In the 
 centre foreground are grouped a palette, brushes, and books ; and at the top is a kneeling child smelling 
 a rose, and another pouring water into a rose-bud. 
 
 t In 1853 were added to the MSS. in the British Museum 63 autograph letters of Lord Nelson, 
 addressed to Lady Hamilton, from 1798 to 1805 ; including the last letter Nelson ever wrote, found in 
 his cabin, after the battle of Trafalgar, October 21st, 1805.
 
 672 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Stafford-street, 1686.' In a plan of London etched by Hollar, in 1686, it is evident that the centre of 
 Clarendon House must have occupied the whole of the site of Stafford-street." Smith's Streets. 
 
 Clarendon House was commenced by Lord Chancellor Clarendon in 1664, " encou- 
 raged thereto by the royal grant of land, by the opportunity of purchasing the stones 
 which had been designed for the repairs of St. Paul's, and by that passion for building 
 to which he was naturally too much inclined." (Evelyn.) About the same time, 
 Lord Berkeley began to build Berkeley House on the west j and Sir John Denham, 
 Burlington House on the east. During the war and the plague year, Clarendon 
 employed about 300 workmen, which raised a great outcry against him : " some called 
 it ' Dunkirk House,' intimating that it was built by his share of the price of Dunkirk : 
 others called it ' Holland House,' because he was believed to be no friend to the war ; 
 so it was given out that he had the money from the Dutch. It was visible that in a 
 time of public calamity he was building a very noble palace." (Surnet.) Pepys 
 records that some rude people, in 1667, "had been at my Lord Chancellor's, where 
 they cut down the trees before bis house and broke his windows ; and a gibbet either 
 set up before or painted upon his gate, and these words .writ : ' Three sights to be 
 seen Dunkirk, Tangier, and a barren queen.' " He was lampooned also in one of the 
 State Poems, entitled " Clarendon's House-warming." The day before his lordship's 
 flight, Evelyn " found him in his garden at his new-built palace, sitting in his gowt 
 wheele-chayre, and seeing the gates setting up towards the north and the fields. He 
 looked and spake very disconsolately. Next morning I heard he was gone." Evelyn, 
 dining at Clarendon House with the Lord Chancellor's eldest son, Lord Cornbury, 
 after his father's flight, describes the mansion as " now bravely furnished, especially 
 with the pictures of most of our English and modern wits, poets, philosophers, famous 
 and learned Englishmen ;" most of these pictures have been brought from Cornbury, 
 a seat of the Earls of Clarendon, Oxon, to the Grove, Watford, Herts. 
 
 Clarendon House was subsequently let to the great Duke of Ormond. After Lord 
 Clarendon's death in exile, it was sold, in 1675, for 26,OOOZ. to the young Duke of 
 Albemarle, who soon parted with it to Sir Thomas Bond, by whom the mansion was 
 taken down, and Bond-street and Albemarle-buildings (now street) and Stafford-street 
 were built upon the site. A map in the Crowle Pennant shows the entrance-gate to 
 the court-yard to have been in Piccadilly, directly opposite St. James's-street ; and the 
 grounds to have extended to the site of Bruton-street. Two Corinthian pilasters, 
 long preserved, at the Three Kings' Inn gateway, No. 75, in Piccadilly, are believed to 
 have belonged to Clarendon House ; the name is preserved in the Clarendon Hotel, 
 built upon a portion of the gardens between Albemarle and Bond-streets. 
 
 " All the waste ground at the upper end of Albemarle and Dover-streets is purchased by the Duke 
 of Grafton and the Earl of Grantham, for gardening ; and the road there leading to May Fair is ordered 
 to be turned." The British Journal, March 30, 1723. (This purchase is commemorated in Qraftou- 
 street.) 
 
 In Albemarle-street, at an apothecary's, lodged Dr. Berkeley when he was made 
 Dean of Derry. Richard Glover, the merchant-poet, who wrote " Leonidas " and 
 "Admiral Hosier's Ghost," died here in 1785. On the east side is the Royal 
 Institution ; the columnar fa9ade by L..Vulliamy, 1838, adapted from the remains of 
 Mars Ultor and Jupiter Stator, and the Pantheon at Rome. No. 23 is the ALFRED 
 CLUB-HOUSE (see p. 240). At No. 50, since 1812, have lived John Murray, father 
 and son, publishers ; the former, " the friend and publisher of Lord Byron," died 
 1843. Opposite is Grillion's Hotel, where Louis XVIII. sojourned in 1814 : here and 
 at the Clarendon were held the Roxburghe Club Dinners. 
 
 Bond-street was commenced in 1686 by Sir Thomas Bond, Bart., Comptroller of 
 the Household to Queen Henrietta-Maria. " Bond-street loungers, who pass from 
 2 till 5 o'clock," are mentioned in the Weekly Journal, June 1, 1717. At No. 41, 
 "at the Silk-Bag Shop," died, March 18, 1768, Laurence Sterne, broken-hearted, 
 neglected, and in debt : some of the most touching scenes in Tom Jones are laid at 
 Mr. Allworthy's lodgings in Bond-street. Here lodged James Boswell when he gave a 
 dinner to Johnson, Goldsmith, Reynolds, and Garrick. No. 27 was the library of Ebers, 
 who in seven years lost 44,080?. by the Italian Opera-house, Haymarket. No. 10 has 
 a large billiard-room, painted 1850 in encaustic by E. F. Lambert, with panels bordered 
 with arabesques; the principal subjects being Bacchus and Ariadne, Hebe, "Willie
 
 PICCADILLY. 
 
 673 
 
 brew'd a peck o' maut," " Let me the cannikin clink," and the " Wassail bowl." The 
 tasteful house-front, No. 21, was designed by the Inwoods, architects of St. Pancras' 
 Church, Euston-road. 
 
 In 1766, the mansion, now the Clarendon Hotel, was let by the Duke of Grafton to Mr. Pitt (Earl of 
 Chatham), for his town house. M. Grillion, proprietor of the Clarendon Hotel, was once rather unex- 
 
 : j ticulous correspondent remmua 
 .t there is no such institution in 
 i as " The Albany." Mr. G. S. 
 
 in his " Ghosts of Piccadilly," 
 >wn clearly the curious status of 
 amous building. " Not ' The 
 "; the definite article, though 
 universal, was not used by the 
 t tenants of the chtonbers, and it 
 3S a writer whfe jkossips about 
 o respect their llnlw>m." 
 
 Mr. Straet is dn quite accurate, 
 ?he Alblpy jtjs \y no means as 
 in these days, 
 
 venerable lady any displeasure; but the ex-Queen would not hear of his being put to any inconvenience. 
 The delicacy and courtesy of M. Grillion were taxed, but stood the test. The Clarendon has more issues 
 than one, and the worthy host contrived that the two illustrious personages should never find them- 
 selves on the same staircase. Athenoium, No. 2001. 
 
 Burlington Gardens, originally " Ten- Acres Fields," extended from Bond-street to 
 UXBEIDGE HOUSE, noticed at p. 557 : here died, April 29, 
 Anglesey, K.G., aged 86. In Cork-street the 
 Marshal Wade a house with a beautiful front, ill- 
 i by Rubens, but in vain : Lord Chesterfield said 
 ild not live in it, but intended to take the house 
 \e). At the south-east corner of Grafton-street 
 rt, who published so many pretty picture-books 
 d-street was the Clifford-street Club (see p. 245). 
 an open field called Conduit-mead (now street), 
 which were found in 1867, in excavating large 
 Jos. 34 and 35, New Bond-street : these cellars 
 re, and will contain upwards of half a million 
 elson lodged in 1797. At No. 21 was exhibited, 
 y Haydon for Sir Robert Peel, and upon which 
 let. 
 
 wi^ be*-fClmd tnat f the modern 3 t, are the BURLINGTON AECADE (see p. 20), and 
 s ofVhambers ther^ate quite as . 52, adjoining, are the Albany Chambers, let in 
 liar rh this result JJiKiirere the ~ &> designed by Sir William Chambers, was sold 
 of whom Mr. Stre\t writes. Inci- . s t Viscount Melbourne, who exchanged it with 
 ly, we may ftakry Jjia^k the ante- Dover, House, Whitehall. In 1804 the mansion 
 s further ^hmVlelbouri||fe House. \ } an d first let in chambers, named Albany from 
 were origVnailyYthrejlouses on The ceih'ngs of the mansion were painted for 
 f e, one of which^vjjjplcupied by e y, and Rebecca. In chambers here have lived 
 )liopbile, Lord Sulfrland, whose i s> Lord Byron, Lord Lytton, Lord Macaulay, 
 id library wen>r|pience to Blen- s ;t e were originally the houses of the Earl of 
 
 Stephen Fox, brother of Charles, dy Stanhope, with large gardens, 
 ihere too, sold it to the first Lord e t j n London without a turning : at the corner 
 urne, and by Melbourne it was ^^ died Sir William Petty, the earliest writer 
 
 England, and ancestor of the Lansdowne family : 
 
 a letterTroin Sir WillianTPetty to Pepys is dated Piccadilly, September, 1687. The 
 Dilettanti Club met at The Prince, in this street, in 1783. 
 
 Swallow -street is named from " Swallow Close," part of the crown lands granted to 
 Lord Chancellor Clarendon : here was the oldest Scottish Presbyterian church in the 
 metropolis, and rebuilt (see p. 222). a Swallow-street originally extended northward to 
 Tyburn-road, from the centre of the present Regent-street. ST. JAMES'S HALL is 
 described at pp. 426-427. Ayr or Air-street was in 1659 the most westerly street. 
 
 SOUTH SIDE. Hyde Park Corner turnpike-gate was removed in 1825. The long 
 dead wall of the Park (now open railing) was hung with ballads; here robberies after 
 dark were frequent. 
 
 Arlington-street, "a very graceful and pleasant street" (Hatton, 1708), was built 
 upon the property of Henry Bennet, Earl of Arlington, about 1689: hence, also, 
 Sennet-street. In Arlington-street lived the Duchess of Cleveland, after the death of 
 Charles II.; Lady Mary Wortley Montague, before her marriage; William Pulteney, 
 Earl of Bath, on the west side, next door to Sir Robert Walpole, where was born 
 Horace Walpole, who wrote in 1768, "From my earliest memory, Arlington-street 
 has been the ministerial street ;" in 1750 he records a highwayman attacking a post- 
 chaise in Piccadilly, at 11 o'clock on a Sunday night, and escaping. Upon the site 
 
 X X 
 
 Hi
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 "- J'JTe return of the It? 
 ^he 
 previous stafeinej 
 
 Stafford-street, 1686.' In a plan of London etched by Hollar, in 1686, it is evident that the centre of 
 Clarendon House must have occupied the whole of the site of Stafford-street." Smith's Streete. 
 
 Clarendon Souse was commenced by Lord Chancellor Clarendon in 1664, "encou- 
 raged thereto by the royal grant of land, by the opportunity of purchasing the stones 
 which had been designed for the repairs of St. Paul's, and by that passion for building 
 to which he was naturally too much inclined." (Evelyn.) About the same time, 
 Lord Berkeley began to build Berkeley House on the west ; and Sir John Denham, 
 Burlington House on the east. During the war and the plague year, Clarendon 
 employed about 300 workmen, which raised a great outcry against him : " some called 
 it ' Dunkirk House,' intimating that it was built by his share of the price of Dunkirk : 
 others called it ' Holland House,' because he was believed to be no friend to the war ; 
 so it was given out that he had the money from the Dutch. It was visible that in a 
 time of public calamity he was building a very noble palace"- J'JTe return of the 
 records that some rude people, in 1667, " had been at my Loi 
 they cut down the trees before his house and broke his windows 
 set up before or painted upon his gate, and these words writ 
 seen Dunkirk, Tangier, and a barren queen.' " He was lampc 
 
 State Poems, entitled " Clarendon's House-wanning." The da ^ of a] Gold and BulHor 
 flight, Evelyn "found him in his garden at his new-built pal 0ffi " 
 wheele-chayre, and seeing the gates setting up towards the noi in Bank of \ 
 
 looked and spake very disconsolately. Next morning I heard 1 ' d Da rlehas' 
 
 dining at Clarendon House with the Lord Chancellor's eldes Notes or the* ft" 
 after his father's flight, describes the mansion as "now brave ^ Is of Exchange 
 with the pictures of most of our English and modern wits, poe Discmiu'f 
 and learned Englishmen;" most of these pictures have been 1 . Bills 
 
 a seat of the Earls of Clarendon, Oxon, to the Grove, Watford, ft^T 6 -' 
 
 ' nvestttii 
 
 Clarendon House was subsequently let to the great Duke of Other Assets " 
 
 Clarendon's death in exile, it was sold, in 1675, for 26,0002. j^ al 
 
 Albemarle, who soon parted with it to Sir Thomas Bond, by ^ O tes in p : ..... i'T* 
 
 taken down, and Bond-street and Albemarle-'buildings (now st: State Deposits 
 
 were built upon the site. A map in the Crowle Pennant sho other T ' ^ivr* 
 
 the court-yard to have been in Piccadilly, directly opposite St. Clearing Hott^e J? "t 
 
 grounds to have extended to the site of Bruton-street. T fa* j^ 3 ^* 1 
 
 long preserved, at the Three Kings' Inn gateway, No. 75, in P 
 
 have belonged to Clarendon House ; the name is preserved 
 
 built upon a portion of the gardens between Albemarle and Be OIL, 
 
 " All the waste ground at the upper end of Albemarle and Dover-stre , , . _ 
 of Grafton and the Earl of Grantham, for gardening; and the road there 1 rrn T - \ 
 to be turned." The British Journal, March 30, 1723. (This purchase ,, j , 
 street.) APEX (TRTYH 
 
 In Albemarle-street, at an apothecary's, lodged Dr. BerlH*le oil f-,r ^^nfiP ;,Ta 
 Dean of Derry. Richard Glover, the merchant-poet, who wrote " Leonidas " and 
 "Admiral Hosier's Ghost," died here in 1785. On the east side is the Royal 
 Institution ; the columnar fa9ade by L. , Vulliamy, 1838, adapted from the remains of 
 Mars Ultor and Jupiter Stator, and the Pantheon at Rome. No. 23 is the ALFBED 
 CITTB-HOUSE (see p. 240). At No. 50, since 1812, have lived John Murray, father 
 and son, publishers; the former, "the friend and publisher of Lord Byron," died 
 1843. Opposite is Grillion's Hotel, where Louis XVIII. sojourned in 1814 : here and 
 at the Clarendon were held the Roxburghe Club Dinners. 
 
 Bond-street was commenced in 1686 by Sir Thomas Bond, Bart., Comptroller of 
 the Household to Queen Henrietta-Maria. " Bond-street loungers, who pass from 
 2 till 5 o'clock," are mentioned in the Weekly Journal, June 1, 1717. At No. 41, 
 "at the Silk-Bag Shop," died, March 18, 1768, Laurence Sterne, broken-hearted, 
 neglected, and in debt : some of the most touching scenes in Tom Jones are laid at 
 Mr. Allworthy's lodgings in Bond-street. Here lodged James Boswell when he gave a 
 dinner to Johnson, Goldsmith, Reynolds, and Garrick. No. 27 was the library of Ebers, 
 who in seven years lost 44,080Z. by the Italian Opera-house, Haymarket. No. 10 has 
 a large billiard-room, painted 1850 in encaustic by E. F. Lambert, with panels bordered 
 with arabesques; the principal subjects being Bacchus and Ariadne, Hebe, "Willie
 
 PICCADILLY. 673 
 
 brew'cl a peck o' maut," " Let me the cannikin clink," and the " Wassail bowl." The 
 tasteful house-front, No. 21, was designed by the Inwoods, architects of St. Pancras' 
 Church, Euston-road. 
 
 In 1766, the mansion, now the Clarendon Hotel, was let by the Duke of Grafton to Mr. Pitt (Earl of 
 Chatham), for his town house. M. Grillion, proprietor of the Clarendon Hotel, was once rather unex- 
 pectedly honoured by the visit of two guests, the French ex-Queen Amelie and Prince Napoleon Jerome. 
 To each the n^sence of the other was made known, but the ex -Queen acknowledged the right of the 
 
 P* 5 to oe in the hotel. The Prince, like a gentleman, offered to withdraw if his presence gave the 
 
 venerable lady any displeasure; but the ex-Queen would not hear of his being put to any inconvenience. 
 The delicacy and courtesy of M. Grillion were taxed, but stood the test. The Clarendon has more issues 
 than one, and the worthy host contrived that the two illustrious personages should never find them- 
 selves on the same staircase. Athenceum, Xo. 2001. 
 
 Burlington Gardens, originally " Ten- Acres Fields," extended from Bond-street to 
 Swallow-street : here is UXBKIDGE HOUSE, noticed at p. 557 : here died, April 29, 
 1854, Field-Marshal the Marquis of Anglesey, K.G., aged 86. In Cork-street the 
 Earl of Burlington designed for Field-Marshal Wade a house with a beautiful front, ill- 
 contrived inside to suit a large cartoon by Rubens, but in vain : Lord Chesterfield said 
 that " to be sure he (the Marshal) could not live in it, but intended to take the house 
 over against it, to look at it" (Walpole). At the south-east corner of Grafton-street 
 was the book-shop of Benjamin Tabart, who published so many pretty picture-books 
 for children. At the corner of Clifford-street was the Clifford-street Club (see p. 245). 
 
 New Bond-street site was in 1700 an open field called Conduit-mead (now street), 
 from the Conduit there, remains of which were found in 1867, in excavating large 
 wine-cellars for Mr. Basil Woodd, at Nos. 34 and 35, New Bond-street : these cellars 
 cover more than one-third of an acre, and will contain upwards of half a million 
 bottles of wine. At No. 141, Lord Nelson lodged in 1797. At No. 21 was exhibited, 
 " Napoleon at St. Helena," painted by Haydon for Sir Robert Peel, and upon which 
 Wordsworth wrote his memorable sonnet. 
 
 In Piccadilly, east of Old Bond-street, are the BUELINGTON ARCADE (see p. 20), and 
 BURLINGTON HOUSE (see p. 545). No. 52, adjoining, are the Albany Chambers, let in lit 
 suites to single gentlemen. The centre, designed by Sir William Chambers, was sold ' 
 in 1770, by Lord Holland, to the first Viscount Melbourne, who exchanged it with 
 the Duke of York for Melbourne, now Dover, House, Whitehall. In 1804 the mansion 
 in Piccadilly was altered and enlarged, and first let in chambers, named Albany from 
 the second title of the Duke of York. The ceilings of the mansion were painted for 
 Lord Melbourne by Cipriani, Wheatley, and Rebecca. In chambers here have lived 
 George Canning, M. G. (Monk) Lewis, Lord Byron, Lord Lytton, Lord Macaulay, 
 and Lord John Manners. Upon the site were originally the houses of the Earl of 
 Sunderland, Sir John Clarges, and Lady Stanhope, with large gardens. 
 
 Sackville-street is the longest street in London without a turning : at the corner 
 house, east, opposite St. James's Church, died Sir William Petty, the earliest writer 
 on the science of political economy in England, and ancestor of the Lansdowne family : 
 a letter from Sir William Petty to Pepys is dated Piccadilly, September, 1687. The 
 Dilettanti Club met at The Prince, in this street, in 1783. 
 
 Swalloiv-street is named from " Swallow Close," part of the crown lands granted to 
 Lord Chancellor Clarendon : here was the oldest Scottish Presbyterian church in the 
 metropolis, and rebuilt (see p. 222). 3 Swallow-street originally extended northward to 
 Tyburn-road, from the centre of the present Regent-street. ST. JAMES'S HAM, is 
 described at pp. 426-427. Ayr or Air-street was in 1659 the most westerly street. 
 
 SOUTH SIDE. Hyde Park Corner turnpike-gate was removed in 1825. The long 
 dead wall of the Park (now open railing) was hung with ballads ; here robberies after 
 dark were frequent. 
 
 Arlington-street, " a very graceful and pleasant street " (Hatton, 1708), was built 
 upon the property of Henry Bennet, Earl of Arlington, about 1689 : hence, also, 
 Sennet-street. In Arlington-street lived the Duchess of Cleveland, after the death of 
 Charles II.; Lady Mary Wortley Montague, before her marriage; William Pulteney, 
 Earl of Bath, on the west side, next door to Sir Robert Walpole, where was born 
 Horace Walpole, who wrote in 1768, " From my earliest memory, Arlington-street 
 lias been the ministerial street ;" in 1750 he records a highwayman attacking a post- 
 chaise in Piccadilly, at 11 o'clock on a Sunday night, and escaping. Upon the site 
 
 X X
 
 674 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of Walpole's house Kent built No. 17, for Pelham the Minister, the house now the 
 Earl of Yarborough's. Lord Nelson lodged in this street in 1800-1, when Lady 
 Nelson separated from him. At No. 16 (the Duke of Rutland's), the Duke of York, 
 second son of George III., lay sick, from August 26, 1826, to his death, Jan. 5, 1827, 
 as touchingly narrated by Sir Herbert Taylor. No. 26, BEAUFORT HOUSE, was in 
 1854 sold to the Duke of Hamilton. The houses on the west side of the street com- 
 'mand a charming view of the Green Park. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S-STREET, Bury -street, Jermyn-street, King-street, and St. James' s-place, 
 are described at pp. 480-483. 
 
 No. 160, Piccadilly, is the entrance to the Wellington Dining -House (formerly Crock- 
 ford's Club). The EGYPTIAN HALL is described at p. 319. 
 
 At No. 169, Wright, the publisher of the Anti-Jacobin, kept shop, which was the 
 resort of the friends of the Ministry, as Debrett's was of the Opposition. In a first- 
 floor met the editors of the Anti-Jacobin, including Canning, Frere, and Pitt ; with 
 Gifford as working editor, and Upcott (Wright's assistant) as amanuensis. (See Notes 
 and Queries ; and Poetry of the Anti-Jacobin, new edition, 1854.) In Wright's shop, 
 Peter Pindar (Wolcot) was castigated by Gifford. No. 177 was the shop of Wijliam 
 Pickering, the eminent publisher, whose title-pages bear the Aldine anchor: his 
 valuable stock of old books, rare works on angling, modern copyrights and reprints, 
 was dispersed in 1854. No. 182 (Fortnum and Mason's) is designed from a mansion 
 at Padua, renovated and altered. The MUSEUM OF PRACTICAL GEOLOGY is described 
 at p. 595. In the Inventory of Rich's Theatrical Properties (Tatler, July 16, 1709) 
 is " Aurungzebe's scymitar, made by Will. Brown in Piccadilly." Regent Circus (see 
 REGENT- STREET). 
 
 No. 201, Piccadilly, is the St. James's Gallery of Art, where is exhibited a most remarkable collec- 
 tion of pictures principally in Water-Colours, painted by E. Facon Watson, from nature; mostly scenes 
 of rural life, one hundred in number : they unite solidity with brilliancy of colour, and are distinguished 
 by the most elaborate care and delicacy of manipulation ; the foliage, flowers, and grasses (especially 
 the ferns), are of microscopic accuracy, and the atmosphere of remarkable transparency and charac- 
 teristic beauty. Many of them are executed in a new style in the practice of the art, which is the artist's 
 secret." They were painted in the leisure of a life-time, and are unquestionably exquisite works of art. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S CHURCH is described at p. 169 : in 1867 the interior was renovated and 
 altered according to Wren's original intention : it has two large sunlights in the ceiling. 
 
 Nollekens, the sculptor, when a boy, with Scheemakers, the sculptor, in Vine-street, " had an idle 
 propensity for bell-tolling, and in that art, for which many allowed him to have a superior talent, he 
 would frequently indulge by running down George-court to St. James's Church, to know how funerals 
 went on. Whenever his master missed him, and the dead-bell was tolling, he knew perfectly well what 
 Joey was at." Smith's Life of Nolleken*. 
 
 PICTURE GALLERIES (PUBLIC). 
 
 TVTATIONAL GALLERY (The), on the north side of Trafalgar-square, was built 
 -L ' between 1832 and 1838, from the design of Professor Wilkins, R.A., and was 
 his latest work. Its length is 461 feet, and the greatest width 56 feet ; and it is 
 built partly with the materials of the King's Mews, the site of which it occupies. The 
 best feature is the centre, the Corinthian columns of which are from the portico of 
 Carlton House, and are adapted from the Temple of Jupiter Stator at Rome.* This 
 portico has interior columns, the only example in the metropolis ; and the view com- 
 mands the broad vista of Parliament-street and Whitehall, and the picturesque towers 
 of the Palace at Westminster. But the Gallery central dome is ill-proportioned and 
 puny ; and the corresponding cupolas upon the wings are poor imitations of Vanbrugh's 
 embellishment of private mansions. Through the eastern wing is a thoroughfare to 
 Duke's-court, claimed by the inhabitants as a right of way long enjoyed by them 
 through the King's Mews. The vestibule is divided, by screens of scagliola columns 
 (with scenic effect), into two halls ; and from each is a staircase leading to the upper 
 floors, each a suite of five rooms. The eastern wing is appropriated to the ROYAL 
 ACADEMY OF ARTS, which see. The western wing is occupied by the national col- 
 lection of pictures. The ground-floor is mostly official apartments, but was originally 
 intended as a depository for public records. 
 
 In the hall are S. Joseph's marble statue of Sir David Wilkie, R.A., with his palette 
 
 * A complete set of casts from these fine specimens of ancient art exists in the Museum of Mr. Joseph 
 Gwilt, F.S.A., Abingdon-street, Westminster.
 
 PICTURE GALLERIES (PUBLIC). 675 
 
 inserted beneath glass in the pedestal ; a fine alto-relievo, in marble, by T. Banks, R.A., 
 of Thetis and her Nymphs rising from the Sea to condole with Achilles on the loss of 
 Patroclus ; a bronze bust of the Emperor Napoleon; and a marble bust of William 
 Mulready, R.A., by H. Weekes, R.A. 
 
 The National Gallery was founded in 1824, by the purchase of Mr. Angerstein's 
 collection of pictures for 57,000?. : it is said, upon the suggestion of George IV. ; but 
 it originated equally in Sir George Beaumont's offer, in 1823, to the Trustees of the 
 British Museum, to present his collection to the public. The Angerstein pictures (38) 
 were first exhibited in the house of Mr. Angerstein, 100, Pall Mall, May 10, 1824; 
 whither Sir George Beaumont's 16 pictures were transferred in 1826. In 1831, 
 35 pictures were bequeathed by the Rev. W. Holwell Carr ; in 1836, 6 pictures were 
 presented by William IV. ; 17 bequeathed in 1837 by Lieut.-Col. Ollney ; 15 be- 
 queathed in 1838 by Lord Farnborough ; 14 bequeathed in 1846 by R. Simmons : 
 and the Gallery has since been increased, by donations, bequests, and comparatively 
 few Government purchases, to about 495 pictures ; independently of the Vernon and 
 Turner collections. 
 
 The current expenses connected with the National Gallery amount to an annual 
 sum of 15,894?., of which the Director receives 1000?., and the Keeper and Secretary 
 750?. The establishment at Trafalgar-square costs 1523?., of which 327?. is given to 
 curators, and 786?. to police. A sum of 621?. is spent at South Kensington, 2000?. is 
 allowed for travelling expenses, agency, &c., and 10,000?. for the purchase of pictures. 
 
 The first Catalogue of the National Gallery, by "W. Young Ottley, has long been out of print : the 
 fullest extant is by B. N. Wornum. Among the more notable pictures are two Groups of Saints and the 
 Baptism of Christ, (eleven pictures,) by Taddeo Gaddi, painted in tempera, bright colour upon a gold 
 background ; curious specimens of middle-age art. 
 
 Italian School: The Virgin and Child, with Saints and a Dead Christ (lunette) from an altar-piece, 
 by Francesco Francia, early Bolognese School. Virgin and Child, with St. John, by P. Perugino ; divinely 
 holy in character and expression. The Raising of Lazarus, by Sebastian del Piombo : the figure of 
 Lazarus by Michael Angelo. St. Catherine of Alexandria, the Vision of a Knight, portrait of Pope 
 Julius II., and fragment of a Cartoon of the Murder. of the Innocents, by Raphael ; and the Madonna, 
 Infant Christ, and John, (Garvagh Raphael, 90001.) Three of Correggio's greatest works: Mercury in- 
 structing Cupid in the presence of Venus ; the Ecce Homo ; and the Holy Family (La Vierge au Panier) : 
 the three pictures cost 14,400. A Holy Family, Noli me tangere, and Bacchus and Ariadne, by Titian. 
 Susannah and the Elders, by Ludovico Caracci. Eight works of Annibale Caracci : Silenus gathering 
 Grapes ; Pan (or Silenus) teaching Apollo to play on the Reed ; and Christ appearing to St. Peter. Nine 
 works of Guido, including Susannah and the Elders; Andromeda and the " Ecce Homo." Ten works of 
 Claude (Landscapes and Seaports), including the Chigi and Bouillon Claudes, the latter the Embarkation 
 of the Queen of Sheba. A nne Landscape (Mercury and the Woodman) by Salvator Rosa. Gaston de 
 Foix, by Giorgione. The Madonna and Child enthroned, with Saints John and Christopher, with the 
 Doge Giovanni Mocenigo, in adoration, by Vittore Carpaccio. St. Rock with the Angel, by Paolo 
 Moraudo. Venetian Senator, by Francesco Bonsignori. The Madonna, Infant Christ, and St. Anne, by 
 Libri. Madonna in Prayer, and Madonna and Child, by Sasso Ferrato. Christ and his Disciples going 
 to Emraaus, by Melone. Milanese Nobleman, by Solarip. " Ecce Homo," by La Spagna. 
 
 Spanish School : Philip IV. of Spain hunting the Wild Boar, Portrait of Philip, the Nativity, (in the 
 Manger,) and the Dead Warrior, by Velasquez. The Holy Family, St. John with the Lamb, and the 
 Spanish Peasant-boy, by Murillo. 
 
 Flemish School : Portraits of a Flemish Gentleman and Lady, in a bedchamber ; under the mirror ia 
 written "Johannes de Eyck fait hie, 1434." Nine works of Rubens: including the Sabine Women; 
 Peace and War, presented to Charles I. by Rubens, in 1630 ; the Brazen Serpent ; St. Bavon, harmonious 
 and picturesque ; Rubens's own Chateau ; the Judgment of Paris, from the Orleans Collection ; and the 
 Apotheosis of James I., sketched for the Whitehall ceiling. Vandyke's magnificent St. Ambrosius and 
 the Emperor Theodosius ; and the same painter's " Gevartius," or Vander Geest, a portrait scarcely 
 equalled hi the world, but by some attributed to Rubens. The Woman taken in Adultery, one of 
 Rembrandt's finest early works; Christ taken down from the Cross; Christ blessing little Children; 
 his Adoration of the Shepherds; a Woman Bathing; and three of his marvellous portraits. A sunny 
 Landscape, with cattle and figures, by Cuyp. The Misers, or Money-changers, by David Teniers. 
 
 French School: Eight works of Nicholas Ponssin, including two Bacchanalian Festivals, and the 
 Plague of Ashdod, very fine. Also, six works of Gaspar Poussin, including his masterpiece, a Landscape 
 with Abraham and Isaac ; and his fine classical picture of Dido and jEneas in a Storm. 
 
 Englinh School : Sun rising in a Mist, and Dido building Carthage, by J. M. W. Turner. Mr. Lewis, 
 the comedian, " Gentleman Lewis," by M. A. Shee, bequeathed by the son of Mr. Lewis, with 10,0001. in 
 money, the proceeds, about 3001. a year, to be laid out in the improvement of the Fine Art*. 
 
 THE TTIENER PICTUBES are arranged chronologically, and comprehend three 
 distinct styles, mostly corresponding with Turner's three visits to Italy in 1819, 1829, and 
 1840. The first period reaches to his 27th year, when he was forming a style, by 
 studying his English predecessors, Wilson, Loutherbourg, and Gainsborough ; his 
 earliest oil-pictures resemble those of Wilson in style. In the second period, 1802 to 
 1830, Turner is seen at first as a follower of Claude and Gaspar Poussin, and then 
 striking out a style of landscape-painting, entirely original, and wholly unrivalled for 
 brilliancy of colouring and effect ; the majority of his greatest works belong to that 
 
 X X 2
 
 676 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 period, from his Calais Pier, 1803, to the Ulysses deriding Polyphemus, 1829. In his 
 third period, dated from 1830, during the last twenty years of his life, everything else 
 was sacrificed to the splendour of light and colour ; yet some of Turner's finest works 
 belong to this period as his Childe Harold's Pilgrimage, 1832, and the Temeraire, 
 1839. The Turner pictures, as arranged by Mr. Wornum, have been hung in the west 
 room of the National Gallery. 
 
 ROYAL ACADEMY OF AETS (THE) occupies the east wing of the National Gallery, 
 already described. The Academy originated in a Society of Artists in Peter's-court, 
 St. Martin's-lane.* With its apparatus Hogarth established the Society of Incorpo- 
 rated Artists, who held their first Exhibition at the house of the Society of Arts, in 
 the Adelphi, April 21, 1760 ; next in Spring Gardens. In 1768 certain artists seceded 
 from the Society, were constituted a " Royal Academy," removed to Pall Mall, and 
 elected Reynolds president (at the first Exhibition, in 1769, there were 136 pictures, 
 and only three sold) ; and George III. granted them, in 1771, apartments in Old 
 Somerset House. 
 
 The Foundation consists of 40 Royal Academicians ; 20 Associates, from whom the 
 members are chosen to fill up vacancies; and six Associate Engravers. The Academi- 
 cians elect from among themselves annually the President ; they also appoint a Secre- 
 tary and Keeper. The Council of eight members elect among the body Professors of 
 Painting, Sculpture, and Architecture ; and appoint a Professor of Anatomy, who must 
 be a surgeon. Dr. Johnson. was first President of Ancient Literature; and Dr. Gold- 
 smith, Professor in Ancient History, was succeeded by Edward Gibbon. Lectures are 
 delivered to the students and exhibiting artists, free of expense : and prize medals are 
 awarded biennially and annually. Students are also sent to Rome at the expense of 
 the Academy. The members are under the superintendence and control of the Queen, 
 who confirms and signs all appointments. 
 
 Among the Foundation Members of the Academy were Sir Joshua Eeyuolds (President) Sir William 
 Chambers, the architect of Somerset House ; Gainsborough and Wilson, the eminent landscape-painters; 
 Benjamin AVest (the second President); Joseph Wilton, the sculptor; F. Bartolozzi, the engraver; 
 Charles Catton, Master of the Painter-Stainers' Company; and Angelica Kauffmann and Mary Hoser. 
 (See Zoflany's Picture of the Royal Academicians, 1773.) 
 
 Upon the rebuilding of Somerset House, apartments in the western wing were given 
 to the Academicians ; and the first Exhibition here was opened May, 1780. 
 
 The Library ceiling was painted by Sir Joshua Reynolds and Cipriani : the centre, by Reynolds, 
 
 represents " the Theory of Painting," a majestic female, holding compasses and a label inscribed, 
 " Theory is the knowledge of what is truly nature." The four compartments, by Cipriani, were per- 
 sonifications of Nature, History, Allegory, and Fable. The Council-room was painted by West : centre, 
 the Graces unveiling Nature, surrounded by figures of the Four Elements ; oval pictures of Invention, 
 Composition, Design, and Colouring, by Angelica Kauffinann; medallions of Apelles, Phidias, Apollodprus, 
 and Archimedes; and a circle of chiaroscuro medallions of Palladio, Bernini, Michael Angelo, Fiammingo, 
 Baffaelle, Domenichino, Titian, and Rubens, painted by Rebecca. 
 
 Horace Walpole writes to Mason : " You know, I suppose, that the Royal Academy at Somerset 
 House is opened. It is quite a Roman palace, and finished in perfect taste, as well as boundless expense. 
 
 Gainsborough has five landscapes there, of which one especially is worthy of any collection and 
 
 of any painter that ever existed." Walpole's copy of "the Exhibition Catalogue" for 1780 exhibits 
 against the landscapes by Gainsborough MS. expressions of " charming," " very spirited," " as admirable 
 as the great masters." 
 
 In 1838 the Academy removed to the National Gallery. They possess a library of 
 prints, and books on art (see p. 464), which is open to students. Here are also several 
 pictures by old masters. The School for Drawing from the Antique is held in the 
 Sculpture-room ; the School for Painting in the West-room ; and the School for Draw- 
 ing from the Life-model is held in the interior of the dome of the edifice. In the Hall 
 of Casts (mostly presented by George IV., and procured through the intervention of 
 Canova) are a beautiful group of Niobe and her Daughters ; the graceful Mercury of 
 the Vatican ; Fauns with their Cymbals ; the Egyptian Jupiter, and the Olympian ; 
 Apollo and the Muses ; the Laocoon ; the Fighting and Dying Warrior ; a mutilated 
 remnant of a statue of Theseus, &c. Upon the ceiling of the Council-room are the 
 paintings, by Sir Joshua Reynolds and other Academicians, transferred from the Library 
 and Council-room at Somerset House. 
 
 * This Society (according to Edwards) was formed from a " Life School," or Living Model Academy, 
 which was established in the house of Peter Hyde, a painter, in Greyhouud-court, between Milfbrd-lane 
 and Arundel-street, Strand, under the direction of Mr. Moser, afterwards the first Keeper of the Royal 
 Academy. The School removed to Peter's-court about 1739. The houses in Greyhound-court were 
 taken down between 1851 and 1854.
 
 PICTURE GALLERIES (PUBLIC). 677 
 
 The Diploma Pictures and Sculptures (each member presenting a work of art upon 
 his election) are placed in the Council-room, and include Sir Joshua Reynolds' full- 
 length portrait of George III. ; Fuseli's " Thor battering the Serpent of Midgard in 
 the boat of Hymer the Giant;" a Rustic Girl, by Lawrence ; the Tribute- Money, by 
 Copley ; Charity, by Stothard ; Jael and Sisera, by Northcote ; the Falling Giant, by- 
 Banks ; and Apollo and Marpessa, and a cast of the Shield of Achilles, by Flaxman ; 
 Christ blessing little Children, by West ; Boys digging for a Rat, by Wilkie ; Opie's 
 Infancy and Age; portrait of Gainsborough, by himself; Sir William Chambers, by 
 Reynolds; and Sir Joshua in his doctor's robes, by himself. Cupid and Psyche, by 
 Nollekens ; bust of Flaxman, by Baily ; West, by Chantrey, &c. 
 
 There are, also, a celebrated copy, size of the original, of the Last Supper, by 
 Leonardo da Vinci, rnade by his pupil, Marco d'Oggione ; copies of the Descent from 
 the Cross, and the two Volets, by Rubens, made by Guy Head ; and copies of the 
 Cartoons of Raffaelle, by Thornhill, the size of the originals, Also, small copies in 
 oil of the frescoes by Raffaelle in the Vatican ; two fine Cartoons (the Holy Family 
 and St. Anna, and Leda) by L. da Vinci ; bas-relief in marble of the Holy Family, by 
 Michael Angelo, presented by Sir George Beaumont, &c. Among the memorials pre- 
 served by the Academy are two palettes of Reynolds and Hogarth. The Diploma 
 Pictures, &c., may be seen by application in writing to the Keeper of the Gallery. 
 
 The Exhibition is opened annually on the first Monday in May ; admission Is., cata- 
 logue 1*. : it closes the last week in July ; but there is an after-exhibition. All works 
 sent for exhibition are submitted to the Council, whose decision is final. The receipts 
 at the door have reached, in one season, 11,600Z. 
 
 The qualifications for becoming a Student of the Royal Academy are, an approved drawing or mode 
 by the applicant, and testimony of his moral character ; and next, an approved drawing or model of an 
 antique figure in the Academy, accompanied by outline drawings of an anatomical figure and skeleton, 
 not less than two feet high, with list, references, &c. A similar rule applies to Architectural Students. 
 
 The Annual Dinner is given by the Academicians on Saturday previous to the open- 
 ing of the Exhibition, in the West Room, where hangs the massive chandelier presented 
 to the Academy by George IV. 
 
 In less than a ninety-nine years "crown and public" tenure of existence [1769-1866] The "Royal 
 Academy of Arts" in London has had ./ire presidents: 1. Sir Joshua Reynolds ; 2. Benjamin West, 
 who declined knighthood ; 3. Sir Thomas Lawrence ; 4. Sir Martin Archer Shee ; 5. Sir Charles Lock 
 Eastlake. 
 
 Total sums received from the Annual Exhibition, from 1769 to 1859 (inclusive), less the expenses 
 attending the same, 267,5832. 15. 5d., sums received by dividends on stock, &c., 91.567L 8. 9d., sums 
 received from his Majesty's Privy Purse, from 1769 to 1780, 51161. 2s., Turner bequest, 20,0001., sums 
 expended by the Royal Academy, from the commencement of the institution, in the gratuitous instruc- 
 tion of the students, general management, &c., 218.469Z. 6*., paid in pensions to distressed and super- 
 annuated members and their widows, from 1802 to 1859, 28,739/. Os. 7d., donations to distressed and 
 superannuated artists and their families, from 1769 to 1859, 32,7721. &. lOd. The balance in favour of 
 the Academy in 1867 was 104.499Z. 19. 8d. 
 
 A new Gallery for the Academy is in course of erection in the rear of Burlington 
 House, Piccadilly, which is to form the frontage of the Academy. 
 
 THE SHEEPSHANKS' PICTURES, were, in 1857, by a deed of gift presented to the nation 
 by Mr. Sheepshanks of Rutland-gate, and are deposited in a building erected for the 
 purpose at South Kensington. 
 
 It comprises 233 oil paintings, cabinet size, ranging over a period of fifty years, and embracing very 
 choice examples of many of the most eminent painters of the time. The collection is incidentally noticed 
 at page 604. A complete list appeared in the Athenceum, No. 1530. It is especially rich in the works of 
 Mulrcady, Leslie, Landseer, Wilkie, Stothard, and Webster. Of Mulready there are 34 examples 
 the earliest painted in 1806, the latest in 1848 : among them is the famous Choosing the Wedding Gown. 
 By Leslie there are 24 paintings, the best illustrations from Shakspeare, Moliere, and Sterne. By 
 Landseer there are 16 paintings, besides drawings and sketches ; the largest picture is the Drover's 
 Departure scene in the Grampians ; also the Old Shepherd's Chief Mourner. The five pictures by 
 Turner include, the vessel in distress off Yarmouth ; and Venice. The only fine picture by Wilkie is 
 The Refusal Duncan Gray. The six by Webster are all good examples. Stothard's 10 pictures include 
 several of his Shakspeare pieces. Further, here are 9 examples by Collins ; 6 by Constable ; as many by 
 Redgrave; 3 each by Stanfield, Roberts, Lee, and Danby; 2 each by Etty, Eastlake, and Creswick; 9 by 
 Callcott .; 11 by Cooke ; 9 by Cope : 4 by Uwius, &c. ; besides drawings by Turner, Proat, &c. 
 
 THE VEENON COLLECTION OF THE ENGLISH SCHOOL, 162 pictures, temporarily ex- 
 hibited at South Kensington, was presented to the nation in 1847, by Mr. Robert Vernon, 
 who died at his house, No. 50, Pall Mall, May 22, 1849, in the 75th year of his age. 
 
 Among the pictures are: Sir Joshua Reynolds the Age of Innocence (very fine), cost Mr. Vernon 
 1450 guineas. Gainsborough Landscape : Sunset (fine). Richard Wilson four small pictures (fine). 
 Sir A. W. Callcott Littlehampton Pier (fine). Wilkie The Newsmongers (fine); The Bagpiper (fine).
 
 678 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Collins, B.A. Happy as a King. J. M. W. Turner, R.A. William III. landing at Torbay; Composition 
 Landscape (fine) ; Two Views in Venice (fine). Clarkson Stanfleld, R.A. The Entrance to the Zuyder 
 Zee (fine). David Roberts, R. A. Interior of St. Paul's at Antwerp (fine). Sir Edwin Landseer, R.A. 
 Peace and War (Peace very fine) ; Highland Piper and Dogs ; Spaniels of King Charles's breed ; the 
 Dying Stag; High Life and Low Life Dogs. W. Mulready, R.A. The Last In; the Ford. T. Webster 
 R.A. The Dame School (fine). D. Maclise, R.A. Play Scene in Hamlet. E. M. Ward, R.A. South 
 Sea Bubble ; Disgrace of Clarendon. 
 
 Both the above collections are open on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Saturdays, free ; and 
 on Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays (students' days) on payment of 6d. each. 
 
 THE NATIONAL POETEAIT GALLERY, 29, Great George-street, Westminster, was 
 established in 1856, with a Government grant for 20001., when the Earl of Ellesmere 
 presented the famous Chandos Shakspeare, which he had purchased at the Stowe sale 
 in 1848, for 355 guineas ; the Gallery has since been supported by an annual grant of 
 20001. for purchases, and by donations of portraits of unquestionable importance, 
 subject to the approbation of the trustees, without partisan or sectarian exclusiveness. 
 Admission free on Wednesdays and Saturdays. 
 
 THE NATIONAL POETEAIT EXHIBITION of Pictures, obtained by loan, originated by 
 the Earl of Derby, was held in the new building at the South Kensington Museum, in 
 the year 1866-7 ; the historic periods 'of the paintings extending from the twelfth 
 century to 1688; and in 1867, from 1688 to 1800. 
 
 Dniwicn GALLEET, founded by Sir Francis Bourgeois, R.A., who left to the College 
 354 pictures, 10,OOOZ. to erect and keep in repair a building, and 20001. to provide for 
 the care of the pictures : built by the suggestion of John Philip Kemble, the actor, 
 at Alleyn's College, Dulwich. (See p. 274.) The Murillos and Cuyps (19) are 
 especially fine. Teniers, 21 in all. Mrs. Sheridan and Mrs. Tickell, by Gainsborough, 
 full-lengths, very fine. Mrs. Siddons, and his own portrait, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, 
 are indifferent duplicates. This is the only Collection free to the public which affords 
 an opportunity for studying the Dutch masters. Open each week free, except Thursday 
 and Friday, charge 6d. 
 
 Among the private Picture Galleries of London are several to which access can be 
 obtained by accredited application, by letter, to the proprietor. Such are the collec- 
 tion in Devonshire House (see p. 548), rich in Italian pictures, and more particularly 
 of the Venetian school ; Sir Robert Peel's, of which Waagen speaks so highly as " a 
 series of faultless pearls of the Flemish and Dutch schools ;" the Bridgewater, formerly 
 the Stafford Gallery (p. 545), to which a great work in four folio volumes has been 
 specially dedicated, and which holds the first rank among English collections, being rich 
 in all schools pre-eminently so in the highest, and containing above 300 pictures ; the 
 collection in Stafford House (p. 557), belonging to the Duke of Sutherland; Lord 
 Ashburton's (p. 544) ; the Duke of Wellington's (p. 542) ; Mrs. Hope's (p. 551) ; and 
 the Marquis of Westminster's, better known as the Grosvenor Gallery (p. 550), one of 
 the wealthiest in the country in the works of Rembrandt, and the Dutch and Flemish 
 painters, and containing many and valuable works in all the other chief schools. 
 
 PIML1CO, 
 
 l NAME of gardens of public entertainment, often mentioned by our early dramatists, 
 J\_ and in this respect resembling " Spring Garden." In a rare tract, Newes from 
 Hogsdon, 1598 : " Have at thee, then, my merrie boys, and hey for old Ben Pimlico's 
 nut-browne !" and the place, in or near Hoxton, was afterwards named from him. Ben 
 Jonson has, 
 
 "A second Hogsden, 
 In days of Pimlico and eye-bright." The Alchemist. 
 
 "Pimlico path" is a gay resort of his Bartholomew Fair; and Meercraft in The Demi 
 is an Ass, says : 
 
 " I'll have thee, Captain Gilthead, and march up 
 
 And take in Pimlico, and kill the bush 
 
 At every tavern." 
 
 In 1609 was printed a tract entitled Pimlico, or Prince Red Cap, 'tis a Mad World at 
 Hogsden. The name is still preserved in " Pimlico Walk," from opposite St. John's 
 church to High-street, Hoxton, a " near cut " to the Britannia Theatre. Sir Lionel
 
 PLAGUE, THE GREAT. 
 
 Rash, in Greene's Tu Quoque, sends his daughter "as far as Pimlico for a draught of 
 Derby ale, that it may bring colour into her cheeks." Massinger mentions, 
 
 " Eating 1 pudding-pies on a Sunday, 
 At Pimlico or Islington." City Madam. 
 
 Auhrey, in his Surrey, speaks of " a Pimlico Garden on Bankside." 
 
 PIMLICO, the district between Knightsbridge and the Thames, and St. James's Park 
 and Chelsea, was noted for its public gardens : as the Mulberry Garden, now part of the 
 site of Buckingham Palace; the Dwarf Tavern and Gardens, afterwards Spring Gardens, 
 between Ebury-street and Belgrave-terrace ; the Star and Garter, at the end of Five- 
 Fields-row, famous for its equestrianism, fireworks, and dancing ; and the Orange, upon 
 the site of St. Barnabas' church. Here, too, were Ranelagh and New Ranelagh. But 
 the largest garden in Pimlico was Jenny's Whim, to the left of the road over Ebnry 
 (late the Wooden) Bridge, formerly Jenny's Whim Bridge. The site is now covered 
 by St. George's-row. The tavern was opened temp. George I. for fireworks, and in its 
 grounds were a pond for duck-hunting, garden-plots, alcoves, and grotesque figures : 
 it was a summer resort of the upper classes; and a tract of 1755 is entitled "Jenny's 
 Whim, or a sure Guide to the Nobility and Gentry," &c. In later years it was fre- 
 quented by crowds from bull-baiting in the adjoining fields. Among the old signs were 
 the Sag o' Nails, Arabella-row, from Ben Jonson's " Bacchanals ;" the Compasses, of 
 Cromwell's time (near Grosvenor-row) ; and the Chin Tavern and Tea-gardens, Queen's- 
 row, with its arbours, and costume figures, the last to disappear. Pimlico is still noted 
 for its ale-breweries. 
 
 Upon the verge of St. James's Park were Tart Hall, and Arlington, subsequently 
 Buckingham, House, architect, Captain Wynde or Wynne, a native of Bergen-op-Zoom. 
 
 So late as 1763, Buckingham House enjoyed an uninterrupted prospect south and west to the river, 
 there being only a few scattered cottages, and the Stag Brewery, between it and the Thames. 
 W. Sardwell. 
 
 Pimlico contains the Belgrave district, including Belgrave, Eaton, and Chester 
 Squares, and the Grosvenor-road ; beyond which the Eccleston sub-district of new 
 squares, terraces, and streets, extends to the Thames. Here are two churches in the 
 Early Decorated style : Holy Trinity, close to Vauxhall Bridge j and St. Gabriel's, 
 Warwick-square, with a spire 160 feet high. 
 
 Ebury Street and Square are named from Ebury Farm, 430 acres (lammas land), 
 leased by Queen Elizabeth at 211. per annum. 
 
 In Lower Belgrave-place, corner of Eccleston-street, Sir Francis Chantrey, R.A., 
 lived 27 years, and executed his finest busts, statues, and monuments : he died here 
 Nov. 25, 1841. Next door but one, at No. 27, lived Allan Cunningham, the poet, and 
 foreman to Chantrey. 
 
 In Stafford-row died, in 1796, Eichard Yates, the celebrated comedian, and teacher of acting, aged 89. 
 He was found dead through disappointment of a dinner of eels, which he ordered of his housekeeper, 
 but which she failed to provide. 
 
 At Pimlico, facing the south wing of Buckingham Palace, is the office of the Duchy 
 of Cornwall, formerly at Somerset House. The site was purchased by the public from 
 the land revenues, at 4300Z., and the building cost about 10,0002. The fronts are 
 mostly formed in cement, painted stone-colour. Here are managed the affairs of the 
 Duchy of Cornwall, from the revenues of which is derived more than half the income 
 of the Prince of Wales. 
 
 Pimlico is also the name of a place near Clitheroe, in Lancashire ; Lord Orrery (in 
 his Letters) mentions " Pimlicoe, Dublin ;" and " Pemlico " is the name of a bird of 
 Barbadoes, " which presageth storms." Notes and Queries, Nos. 29, 31, and 125. 
 
 PLAGUE, THE GREAT. 
 
 T ONDON has frequently suffered from the ravages of pestilence ; and thousands and 
 J-J tens of thousands of the inhabitants have been swept by its virulence into one 
 common grave. But at no period of its history was the mortality so devastating as in 
 the year 1665, the " last great visitation," as it is emphatically entitled by Defoe in 
 his Journal of the Plague Year. This work was originally published in l722 : now, 
 as Defoe was only two years of age when the Great Pestilence occurred, his Journal
 
 680 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 was long considered as much a work of imagination as his Robinson Crusoe ; but there 
 is abundant evidence of his having compiled the Journal from contemporary sources ; 
 as the Collection of all the Bills of Mortality for 1665, published as London's Dread- 
 ful Visitation ; the Loimologia of Dr. Hodges ; and God's Terrible Voice in the City, 
 by the Rev. Thomas Vincent, 1667 ; and many of the events which De Foe records 
 derive collateral support from the respective Diaries of Pepys, Evelyn, and Lord Claren- 
 don works which were not published until very long after Defoe's decease, and the 
 manuscripts of which he could never have perused. Defoe is believed to have been 
 familiar with the manuscript Account of the Great Plague by William Boghurst, a 
 medical practitioner, formerly in the Sloane Collection, and now preserved in the British 
 Museum : it is a thin quarto manuscript of 170 pages, from which only a few extracts 
 have been published. Boghurst was an apothecary in St. Giles's-in-the-Fields ; and he 
 states that he was the only person who had then (1666) written on the late Plague 
 from experience and observation. Rapin and Hume have recorded the event in little 
 more than a single sentence; but Dr. Lingard has grouped the details of De Foe's 
 Journal into a terrific picture, which has been compared to the celebrated delineation 
 of the Plague of Athens by Thucydides. 
 
 "No one can take up the book (Defoe's) without believing that it is the saddler of Whitechapel who 
 is telling his own story ; that he was an eye-witness to all he relates : that he actually saw the blazing 
 star which portended the calamity ; that he witnessed the grass growing in the streets, read the inscrip- 
 tions upon the doors of the infected houses; heard the bellman crying, 'Bring out your dead!' saw the 
 dead-carts conveying people to their graves, and was present at the digging of the pits in which they 
 were deposited." Wilson's Life and Times qf Defoe. 
 
 The Great Plague was imported, in December, 1664, by goods from Holland, where, 
 in Amsterdam alone, 20,000 persons had been carried off by the same infection within 
 a short time. The infected goods were opened at a house in St. Giles's parish, near 
 the upper end of Drury-lane, wherein died four persons ; and the parish books record 
 of this period the appointment of searchers, shutting up of infected houses, and contri- 
 butions by assessment and subscription. A Frenchman, who lived near the infected 
 house in Drury-lane, removed into Bear-binder-lane (leading to St. Swithin's-lane), 
 where he died, and thus spread the distemper in the City. Between December and 
 the ensuing April the deaths without the walls of the City greatly increased, and in 
 May every street in St. Giles's was infected. In July, in August, and September the 
 deaths ranged from 1000 to 7000 per week ; and 4000 are stated to have died in one 
 fatal night ! In the latter month fires were burnt in the streets three nights and days, 
 " to purge and purify the air." 
 
 " St. James's Park was quite locked up ; " and, July 22 : "I by coach home, not meeting with but two 
 coaches and but two carts, from White Hall to my own house, that 1 could observe ; and the streets 
 mighty thin of people." Pepys. 
 
 "June 7th. The hottest day that ever I felt in my life. This day, much against my will, I did in 
 Drury-lane see two or three houses marked with a red cross upon the doors, and ' Lord have mercy upon 
 us !' writ there." Pepys. 
 
 " Sept. 7. I went all along the City and suburbs, from Kent-street to St. James's, a dismal pas- 
 sage, and dangerous, to see so many coffins exposed in the streets, now thin of people ; the shops shut 
 up, and all in mournful silence, as not knowing whose turn it might be next." Evelyn. 
 
 " Within the walls, 
 
 The most frequented once and noisy parts 
 Of town, now midnight silence reigns e'en there : 
 A midnight silence at the noon of day ! 
 And grass, untrodden, springs beneath the feet." Dryden. 
 
 The Court removed from Whitehall to Hampton Court, and thence to Salisbury and 
 Oxford; and the Londoners, leaving their city, carried the infection into the country; 
 so that it spread, towards the end of this and the following year, over a great part 
 of England. The Plague gradually abated in the metropolis ; but it was not until 
 Nov. 20, 1666, that public thanksgivings were offered up to God for assuaging the 
 pestilence in London, Westminster, and within the bills of mortality. There were reported 
 dead of the Plague in 1664-5, 68,596; probably less by one-third than the actual number. 
 Among the Plague medicines were Pill Rufus and Venice treacle. Another antidote was 
 sack. Tobacco was used as a prophylactic ; and amulets were worn against infection. 
 Among many touching episodes of the Plague, is that of a blind Highland bagpiper, 
 who, having fallen asleep upon the steps of St. Andrew's Church, Holborn-hill, was 
 conveyed away in the dead-cart ; and but for the howling of his faithful dog, which 
 waked him from his trance, he would have been buried as a corpse. Of the piper and
 
 POLICE. 681 
 
 Lis dog a group was sculptured by Caius Gabriel Cibber : it was long after purchased 
 by John the great Duke of Argyll, subsequently to whose death it for many years 
 occupied a site in a garden in the front of No. 178, Tottenham-court-road, whence it 
 disappeared about 1825. (See London Magazine, April, 1820.) 
 
 Another episode is that of a grocer in Wood-street, Cheapside, who shut himself up 
 with his family, with a store of provisions, his only communication being by a wicket 
 made in the door, and a rope and pulley to draw up or let anything down into the 
 street ; and thus they escaped infection. 
 
 In the Intelligencer, for the year 1665, No. 51, appeared the following advertise- 
 ment : 
 
 " This is to notify that the master of the Cock and Bottle, commonly called the 
 Cock Alehouse, at Temple Bar, hath dismissed his servants and shut up his house for 
 this long vacation, intending (God willing) to return at Michaelmas next ; so that all 
 persons whatsoever who have any accompts with the said master, or farthings belonging 
 to the said house, are desired to repair thither before the 8th of this instant July, and 
 they shall receive satisfaction." One of these farthings is still preserved at the Cock 
 Tavern. 
 
 Forty years before, Evelyn records 1625 as " the year in which the pestilence was 
 so epidemical, that there dy'd in London 5000 a week." 
 
 In another great Plague year, 1603, there died 30,561 : 
 
 " London now smokes with vapors that arise 
 
 From his foule sweat, himselfe he so bestirres : 
 ' Cast out your dead !' the carcase-carrier cries, 
 Which he by heapes in groundlesse graves interres. 
 
 * * * * 
 
 " The London lanes (thereby themselves to save) 
 
 Did vomit out their undigested dead, 
 Who by cart-loads are carried to the grave : 
 For all these lanes with folke were overfed. 
 
 * * * 
 
 " Time never knew, since he bcgunne his houres 
 
 (For aught we reade), a plague so long remaine 
 In any citie as this plague of ours ; 
 For now six yeares in London it hath laine." 
 
 The Triumph of Death, by John Davies, 1609. 
 
 It will be recollected, from the several accounts of the Plague in London, that a 
 cross was affixed by the authorities to the door of the house where there was infection. 
 In the Guildhall Library, not long since, among some broadsides, was found one of 
 these " Plague Crosses." It was the ordinary size of a broadside, and bore a cross 
 extending to the edges of the paper, on which were printed the words, " Lord have 
 mercy upon us." In the four quarters formed by the limbs of the cross were printed 
 directions for managing the patient, regulations for visits, medicines, food, and water. 
 This " Cross" unfortunately, is not now to be found. 
 
 POLICE. 
 
 THE original Police of the metropolis (which until the commencement of the lost 
 century, comprised only the " City and liberties," with Westminster) consisted of 
 the aldermen, deputy-aldermen, common-councilmen, ward-clerk, ward-bedell, inquest- 
 men or leet jury, and constables of the several wards, who were formerly themselves 
 the night-watchmen by rotation, of Englishmen, for no stranger was allowed to 
 discharge so responsible an office: the ward, with its precincts, being no other than the 
 highest development of the Anglo-Saxon hundred with its tithings. We find this 
 form of Police to have existed from the earliest settlement of the valley of the Thames 
 by a northern nation ; and to have continued in use, as the type and model for the rest 
 of the realm, until the institution of the present Police. 
 
 The few officers of the central Police in the City, the upper-marshal, the under- 
 marshal, and the marshalmen, under whom was organized, at a very modern date, 
 a subordinate force of sixty-eight men, were in like manner the type of the Bow-street 
 and other police attached to the several magistrates' offices established in the outlying 
 portions of the metropolis so recently as the close of the last century.
 
 682 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 In the metropolitan parishes without the City, the watch was chiefly under local 
 acts ; the establishment in each consisting of a beadle, constables, and generally head- 
 boroughs, street-keepers, and watchmen, as in the several wards of the City, but 
 working to a result much worse : the petty constables being served by deputies, in 
 many instances characters of the worst and lowest description ; having no salary, but 
 living by extortion, and countenancing all species of vice. 
 
 To abolish such a system, Sir Robert Peel's Metropolitan Police Act of the 10th of 
 George IV. c. 44, was passed, superseding the Bow-street foot-patrol, and the whole 
 of the parochial police and watch outside the City, by one force both for day and night 
 duty ; in the sole appointment, order, and superintendence of two Commissioners, 
 acting under the responsibility of the Secretary of State for the Home Department.* 
 
 The Metropolitan Police force consisted at the beginning of 1867, of 7548 men 
 namely, 27 superintendents, 221 inspectors, 818 sergeants, and 6482 constables, 
 a small increase over the return of the previous year. The highest salary of a constable 
 was 782., the lowest 492. 8s., exclusive of clothing and coals. The cost of the police for 
 the year 1866, including the dockyard police and all incidental expenses, such as for 
 refreshments supplied to destitute prisoners and medical aid for poor persons in cases of 
 accident in the public throughfares, amounted to 621,8192. The Metropolitan Police- 
 rate of 1866 produced 383,1332.; the Treasury contributed 117,5192., besides large 
 special payments for the dockyard police and services at military stations and public 
 offices. Private individuals or companies paid 62042., and the theatres 2582. for the 
 services of the police. The cost of the police courts in 1866 amounted to 49,5352. ; 
 it falls upon the public purse. There is one chief magistrate receiving 15002. a year, 
 and 22 magistrates with 12002. The fees and penalties levied at the police-courts of 
 these magistrates, and of other justices within the district, amounted to 15,1862. ; these 
 fees and penalties are paid over to the Exchequer. 
 
 The first chief magistrate (and, indeed, the first stipendiary magistrate, in the sense of being paid by 
 stipend only, to the exclusion of fees) was Sir J. Fielding, the half-brother of Henry Fielding, the 
 novelist. The following is a list of the chief magistrates from the institution of the office to the present 
 day: Sir John Fielding, Sir W. Addington, Sir Richard Ford, Mr. Read, Sir Nathaniel Conant, Sir 
 Robert Baker, Sir Richard Birnie, Sir Frederic A. Roe, Mr. Hall, Sir Thomas Henry. Sir Robert Baker 
 resigned his office in 1821, in consequence of a complaint that had been made of his conduct in. 
 allowing the funeral procession of Queen Caroline to be diverted from the appointed course. Sir 
 Frederic A. Roe, who was knighted in 1832, received a baronetcy in 1836, upon succeeding to the 
 estates of his uncle, Mr. Adair Bx>e. Sir Richard Birnie was the only chief magistrate who had not been 
 a junior magistrate. 
 
 The great living machine keeps guard over our metropolis, with its millions of 
 rateable property, and watches at night, in order that its resident population may 
 sleep in safety; although six thousand professional thieves are constantly on the 
 watch for opportunities to plunder. During the night the Police never cease pa- 
 trolling the whole time they are on duty, being forbidden even to sit down. The 
 Police District is mapped out into divisions, the divisions into subdivisions, the sub- 
 divisions into sections, and the sections into beats, all being numbered, and the limits- 
 carefully defined. To every beat certain constables are specifically assigned ; and they 
 are provided with little maps called beat-cards. So thoroughly has this arrangement 
 been carried into effect, that every street, road, lane, alley, and court within the me- 
 tropolitan district that is, the whole of the metropolis is visited constantly day and 
 night by some of the police. Within a circle of six miles from St. Paul's, the beats 
 are ordinarily traversed in periods varying from 70 to 25 minutes; and there are 
 points which, in fact, are never free from inspection. Nor must it be supposed that 
 this system places the wealthier localities at a disadvantage ; for it is an axiom in 
 police, that you guard St. James's by watching St Giles's. 
 
 " Intelligence is conveyed from one constable to the other till it reaches the station- 
 house ; thence, by an admirable arrangement of routes and messengers, it passes to 
 the Central Office at Whitehall, thence along radiating lines to each division, and from 
 the divisional station-house to every constable in the district. In a case of emergency, 
 
 * The late Vincent George Dowling claimed to be the originator of the plan on which this new police 
 system was organized: even the names of the officers inspector, sergeant, &c. were published in Hell't 
 Life in London (of which newspaper Dowling was editor) nearly two years before the system was pro- 
 posed by Sir Robert Peel. Mr. T. Duffus Hardy contributed, from documents in the Record Office, im- 
 portant information to Sir Robert Peel on the ancient police arrangements of London.
 
 POPULATION. 683 
 
 the Commissioiier could communicate intelligence to every man in the force, and 
 collect the whole of the men in one place, in two hours. The power of rapid con- 
 centration has worked so effectually, that since the establishment of the Metropolitan 
 Police, it has never been found necessary to call the military into actual operation 
 in aid of the civil force. Nor can clearer proof be given of perfect discipline, than 
 the fact that 5000 men in the prime and vigour of life, with moderate wages, 
 2*. 5d. to 3*. per day, exposed in an unusual degree to the worst temptations of 
 London, and discharging, for the most part during the night, a very laborious duty, 
 always irksome and often dangerous, are kept in complete control without any ex- 
 traordinary coercive power." Edinburgh Review. 
 
 The Corporation have their own Police ; the ordering of the force being vested in 
 the Commissioner, subject to the approbation of the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, or 
 any three of them j and also of the Secretary of State for the Home Department. 
 In addition to a Commissioner, chief superintendent, surgeon, receiver, and four 
 clerks, the force consists of 1 superintendent, 14 inspectors, 14 station-sergeants, 12 
 detective-sergeants, 56 sergeants, and 590 constables. The entire annual cost is about 
 65,000. The clothing, helmets, stocks, and armlets cost, for the year, 2951Z. Os. 2d. j 
 lanterns and oil, 3101. The estimated income for the year is 67,16U. 9*. 2d. ; de- 
 rived from the following sources : Produce of 8d. in the pound on the assessable 
 rental of the City (1,518,332Z.), after deducting 6 per cent, for poundage and defi- 
 ciencies, 47,575. ; proportion of expenses from City's cash, 15,175. 16s. 6d. ; estimated 
 fines and penalties, 550Z. ; payment out of Bridge-house estate for watching London 
 and Blackfriars Bridges, 6681. 4*. ; rents from constables, 10781. 4?. ; payment for 
 men on private service at the Bank, Post-office, Blackwall Railway, City of London 
 Union, Inland Revenue-office, Times-office, Guildhall justice-room, as assistant-gaoler, 
 omnibus time-keepers, Messrs. Gooch and Cousens, Messrs. Pawson and Co., and 
 Messrs. Kcarns, Major, and Field, 21141. 4*. 8d. These accounts show an estimated 
 surplus of receipts over expenditure amounting to 2597/. 10*. 8d. 
 
 The Horse Patrol was added in 1836 ; and the Thames Police, with the West- 
 minster Constabulary and the Police-office Agency, in 1838, when the old detective 
 force was superseded. 
 
 Before the establishment of the Thames Police, by Mr. E. Colquhoun, the annual loss by robberies 
 alone upon the river was half a million sterling ; the depredators being termed river-pirates, light and 
 heavy horsemen, mud-larks, cope-men, scuffle-hunters. They were frequently known to weigh a ship's 
 anchor, hoist it with the cable into a boat, and when discovered, to hail the captain, tell him of his loss, 
 and row away. They also cut craft and lighters adrift, ran them ashore, and cleared them. Many of 
 the light-horsemen cleared five guineas a night ; and an apprentice to a game-waterman often kept his 
 country-house and saddle-horse. In 1797, the first year of the Police, the saving to the West India 
 merchants alone was computed at 100,0002. ; and 2200 culprits were convicted of misdemeanours on the 
 river during the same period. 
 
 POPULATION. 
 
 rPAPERELL and Innes's Map of London and Westminster in the early part of the reign 
 J- of Queen Elizabeth (1560), based upon Vertue's Map, 1737, shows on the east the 
 Tower, standing separated from London, and Finsbury and Spitalfields with their 
 trees and hedge-rows; while on the west of Temple Bar, the villages of Charing, 
 St. Giles's, and other scattered hamlets are aggregated, and Westminster is a distinct 
 city. The intervening north bank of the river Thames, or the Strand, has a line of 
 seats and gardens of the nobility. At the date of this map London contained about 
 145,000 inhabitants. In the narrative of the visit of the Duke de Nayera to the 
 Court of Henry VIII. in 1543, London is described as one of the largest cities in 
 Christendom, " its extent being near a league." " There were 150,000 houses in 
 London before the Fire. About 15,000 or 16,000 die yearly in London when no 
 plague, which is thrice more than in Amsterdam. The excise in London comes to 
 about 12,000. a year. London stands on 460 acres of ground. Lost in books 150,000?. 
 at the Fire of London. London Bridge is 800 feet long, 60 feet high, and 30 broad ; 
 it hath a drawbridge in the middle, and 20 feet between each arch." Diary of the 
 Eev. John Ward, 1648 to 1673. 
 
 Sir William Petty, in his Political Arithmetic, printed in 1683, after much study of
 
 684 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 statistical returns and bills of mortality, demonstrates that the growth of the 
 metropolis must stop of its own accord before the year of grace 1800; at which 
 period the population would, by his computation, have arrived at exactly 5,359,000. 
 Nay more, were it not for this halt, he shows that the increase would double in forty 
 years, with a slightly accelerating increment, as he gives the amount of human beings 
 in the city for 1840 at 10,718,880 ! The identical year 1800, the commencement of a 
 truly important century, found London still enlarging : brick-fields and scaffolding 
 were invading all its outskirts ; but the inhabitants, who had increased in a reasonably 
 rapid ratio, numbered only 830,000. 
 
 " There are no accurate accounts of the population of London previously to the Census of 1801. The 
 population of the City was estimated by Graunt, in his famous Treatise on Bills of Mortality, at 384,000 
 in 1661 ; and adding one-fifth to this for the population of Westminster, Lambeth, Stepney, and other 
 outlying parishes, he estimated the entire population at about 460,000. (Observations, &;?., 5th ed. 
 pp. 82, 105.) In 1696 the population of the City and the out-parishes was carefully estimated, by the 
 celebrated Gregory King, at 527,560 ; and considering the great additions that had been made to the 
 metropolis between the Restoration and the Revolution, this increase does not seem to be greater than 
 we should have been led to infer from Graunt's estimate. The p pulation advanced slowly during the 
 first half of the last century; indeed, it fell off between 1740 and 1750. In his tract on the population of 
 England, published in 1782, Dr. Price estimated the population of London in 1777 at only 5i3,420 (p. 5). 
 But there can be no doubt that this estimate, like that which he gave of the population of the kingdom, 
 was very decidedly under the mark; and the probability seems to be, that in 1777 London had from 
 640,000 to 650,000 inhabitants." Macculloch's Geographical Dictionary. 
 
 A return made in 1867 from the metropolitan police-office states that within a 
 radius of six miles from Charing-cross there are 2637 miles of streets. Since 1849 
 the number of houses has increased by upwards of 60,000, and the length of streets by 
 nearly 900 miles. 
 
 The Registrar- General, in his Report for 1866, says : London is growing greater 
 every day, and within its present bounds, extending over 122 square miles of territory, 
 the population amounted last year by computation to 3,037,991 souls. In its midst is 
 the ancient City, inhabited at night by about 100,000 people ; while around it, as 
 far as a radius of 15 miles stretches from Chariug-cross, an ever-thickening ring of 
 people extend within the area which the metropolitan police watches over, making the 
 whole number on an area of 687 square miles around St. Paul's and Westminster 
 Abbey 3,521,267 souls. 
 
 The "London" of the Registrar-General, which is identical with the Poor Law 
 Union London, and is the London of the Census, stretching from Hampstead to 
 Norwood, and from Hammersmith to Woolwich, is returned as comprising 194 
 parishes, 77,997 statute acres, and 2,803,989 people, with property assessed for the 
 county- rate at more than 12,000,000^. Of its area 2778 acres are covered with 
 water, being part of the river Thames. Of its population in 1861, 2,030,814 were in 
 the county of Middlesex, 579,748 in the county of Surrey, and 193,427 in the county 
 of Kent. Since the Census of 1851 the Middlesex portion of the population, nearly 
 three-fourths of the whole, had increased 16 per cent., the Surrey portion 20 per 
 cent., and the small portion in Kent (not much larger than Sheffield) no less than 
 44 per cent. ; the entire population increased 18'7 per cent., or 441,753 a number 
 which would people all Liverpool or Manchester. This is more than a fifth of the 
 increase in all England and Wales, though the metropolis, even in 1861, did not 
 contain quite a seventh of the population. In the ten years, 1851-60, 528,306 persons 
 were married in the metropolis, 864,563 children were born there, and 610,473 persons 
 died there. Among its varieties it has eight parishes, none of which has 100 in- 
 habitants ; and it has six parishes, each of which has above 100,000. At the census it 
 had 5625 in-patients in its hospitals, and 10,658 inmates of its orphan asylums, and 
 other principal charitable institutions. It has more than its share of women ; in 1851 
 there were 113'47 females to every 100 males, and in 1861 there was one female more 
 (114-40) to every 100 males ; but the births within the metropolis in the ten years, 
 1851-60, produced only 96-18 females to every 100 males; such are the changes 
 wrought by death and emigration. The returns state that at the date of the census, 
 in districts at the west-end containing 284,000 persons, 6120 residents were out of 
 town, and 2460 visitors were temporarily staying there; it was not the London 
 season, and it was but a week after Easter-day. 
 
 The revised Census returns show that on the 8th of April, 1861, the number of
 
 PORT OF LONDON. 685 
 
 houses inhabited by the population of England and Wales was 3,739,505. There was, 
 therefore, one house to every 5'36 persons, or 536 persons to 100 houses. In 1851 
 there were 547 persons to 100 houses, so that notwithstanding increased numbers 
 there is rather more house-room than there was. In the metropolis, however, taken 
 as a whole, these returns show that the crowding is rather greater than less than it 
 was ; in 1851 there were 772 persons to 100 houses, in 1861 780 persons. Mr. Scott, 
 the City Chamberlain, shows by curious statistics, that, taking the area of the metro- 
 polis at sixteen miles from Charing Cross which is the Metropolitan Police district- 
 the population of London, in 1801, ranged at equal distances, would stand each man 
 twenty-one yards from his neighbour. In 1851 each person would have stood fourteen 
 yards apart. In 1866, there would have been only nine yards between each person : 
 and in fifty years hence, supposing the population to go on increasing at its present rate, 
 to keep within the sixteen miles area, there will only be standing-room for each person. 
 A Census of the City shows the night population of the City and liberties numbered 
 113,387 : the mercantile and commercial population engaged in the City daily amounted 
 to 170,133; the total day population residing in the City to 283,520; and the number 
 of persons resorting to the City daily in sixteen hours, not included in the above, being 
 customers, clients, and others, to 509,611. The persons frequenting the City daily in 
 twelve hours, from 6 A.M. to 6 P.M., were 549,613 ; in sixteen hours, from 5 A.M. to 
 9 P.M., they were 679,744; and in twenty-four hours they were 728,986. 
 
 Taken as a whole, the more crowded part of London contained 1,150,000 persons in 
 1851, and about the same number were found there in 1861 ; but it is something to 
 have thrown into the suburbs the increase of the ten years in the whole metropolis 
 440,000, almost precisely the population of Liverpool. 
 
 The present population of London is supposed to represent the number of inhabitants 
 living in England and Wales four centuries and a half ago, in the reign of Edward III. 
 
 A late return shows the number of passengers and vehicles passing over London Bridge in twenty- 
 four hours. The total number of passengers in carriages and on foot amounted, in the twenty-four 
 hours, to 167,910, or at the average rate of about 6996 per hour, night and day. The largest number 
 passed between ten and eleven in the morning, and eight and nine in the evening, averaging at those 
 hours 224 per minute. Between three and four in the morning is the quietest time in the streets of 
 London, and then as many as 111 persons passed over the bridge in an hour. If we take the above 
 167,910 as an average of the number of passengers who cross London Bridge during the working days, 
 and only half that number on the Sundays, the number will amount in the year to fifty-six millions. 
 This is nearly as many as twice the population of the United Kingdom. At times, during the throng 
 of business, there are 2000 persons on London Bridge. During the twenty-four hours the number of car- 
 riages amounted to 20,498, or an average of about 854 an hour. The greatest number of carriages in any 
 hour was between ten and eleven o'clock in the forenoon, when 1764 carriages passed over the bridge. 
 
 POET OF LONDON. 
 
 OIR JOHN HERSCHEL felicitously observes : " It is a fact not a little interesting 
 O to Englishmen, and, combined with our insular situation in the great highway of 
 nations, the Atlantic, not a little explanatory of our commercial eminence, that London 
 occupies nearly the centre of the terrestrial hemisphere." (Treatise on Astronomy). 
 On the other hand it is held that the great distance of London from the mouth of the 
 river, and also from the coal country and the centre of manufacturing districts, are 
 serious drawbacks, in spite of which London has become the immense port she un- 
 doubtedly is. 
 
 Tacitus describes London, in the year 61, as not dignified with the name of a colony, 
 but very celebrated for the number of its merchants and commerce. In 211 it was 
 styled " a great and wealthy city ;" and in 359 there were engaged 800 vessels in the 
 import and export of corn to and from Londinum alone. 
 
 An edict of King Ethelred (A.D. 978) refers to the fact that " the Emperor's men, 
 or Easterlings, come with their ships to Billingsgate." The Easterlings were the 
 merchants of the Steelyard, and paid a duty to the port. William the Norman fortified 
 London ; but in the charter which he granted to the inhabitants, he made no mention 
 of commerce. Henry I. and other sovereigns, however, granted them privileges ; and 
 Fitz-Stephen, in his Life of St. Thomas a BecJcet, thus describes the merchandize of 
 London :
 
 686 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 "Arabia's gold, Sahara's spice and incense, 
 Seythia's keen weapons, and the oil of palms 
 From Babylon's deep soil ; Nile's precious gems ; 
 China's bright, shining silks; and Gallic wines; 
 Norway's warm peltry, and the Russian sables ; 
 All here abound." 
 
 Edward I. expelled the Jews, but offered some special advantages to other foreign 
 traders. Edward III. founded three of the great guilds which at one time held the 
 commerce of London in their hands the Goldsmiths, the Merchant Taylors, and the 
 Skinners ; being the oldest of the now existing companies, with the single exception of 
 the Fishmongers, which was founded in the reign of Edward I. Before the close of 
 Edward IIL's reign the Grocers, Salters, Drapers, and Vintners were founded. The 
 Mercers belong to the reign of Richard II. ; the Haberdashers to that of Henry VI. ; 
 and the Ironmongers and Clothworkers to that of Edward IV. 
 
 Under an Act of Charles II., the Port of London is held to extend as far as the 
 North Foreland. It, however, practically extends 6^ miles below London Bridge, to 
 .Bugsby's Hole, beyond Blackwall. The actual Port reaches to Linaehouse, and consists 
 of the Upper Pool, the first bend or reach of the river, from London Bridge to near the 
 Thames Tunnel and Execution Dock ; and the Lower Pool, thence to Cuckold's Point. 
 In the latter space colliers mostly lie in tiers ; a fair way of 300 feet being left for 
 shipping and steamers passing up and down. The depth of the river insures London 
 considerable advantage as a shipping port. Even at ebb-tide there are 12 or 13 feet 
 of water in the fair way of the river above Greenwich ; the mean range of the tide at 
 London Bridge is about 17 feet ; of the highest spring-tides about 22 feet. To 
 Woolwich the river is navigable for ships of any burden ; to Blackwall for those of 
 1400 tons ; and to St. Katherine's Docks for vessels of 800 tons. 
 
 The several DOCKS are described at pp. 309-312 ; the CUSTOM HOTTSE at p. 305 ; 
 and BILLINGSGATE at p. 54. 
 
 " In one day (Sept. 17, 1849) there arrived in the Port 121 ships, navigated by 1337 seamen, with a 
 registered tonnage of 29,699 tons : 106 British, 15 foreign : 52 cargoes from our colonies, 69 from foreign 
 states from the inhabitants of the whole circuit of the globe. The day's cargoes included 32,280 
 packages of sugar, from the West Indies, Brazil, the East Indies, Penang, Manilla, and Rotterdam ; 
 317 oxen and calves, and 2734 sheep, principally from Belgium and Holland ; 3967 quarters of wheat, 
 13,314 quarters of oats from Archangel or the Baltic ; potatoes from Rotterdam ; 1200 packages of onions, 
 from Oporto ; 16,000 chests of tea, from China ; 7400 packages of cofiee, from Ceylon, Brazil, and India ; 
 632 bags.of cocoa from Grenada ; 1460 bags of rice from India, and 350 bags of tapioca from Brazil ; bacon, 
 and pork from Hamburg, and 8000 packages of butter and 50,000 cheeses from Holland ; 767 packages 
 of eggs (900,000) ; of wool, 4458 bales, from the Cape and Australia; 15,000 hides, 100,000 horns, and 
 3600 packages of tallow, from South America and India ; hoofs of animals, 13 tons, from Port Philip, 
 and 140 elephants' teeth from the Cape ; 1250 tons of granite from Guernsey, copper ore from Adelaide, 
 and cork from Spain ; 40,000 mats from Archangel, aud 400 tons of brimstone from Sicily ; cod-liver oil, 
 and 3800 sealskins, from Newfoundland; 110 bales of bark from Arica, and 1100 casks of oil from the 
 Mediterranean; lard, oil-cake, and turpentine, from America; hemp from Russia, and potash from 
 Canada; 246 bales of rags, from Italy; staves for casks, timber for our houses, deals for packing-cases ; 
 rosewood, 876 pieces ; teak for ships, logwood for dye, lignum vita? for ships' blocks, and ebony for 
 cabinets ; cotton from Bombay, zinc from Stettin, 1000 bundles of whisks from Trieste, yeast from 
 Rotterdam, and apples from Belgium ; of silk, 900 bales from China, finer sorts from Piedmont and 
 Tuscany, and 200 packages from China, Germany, and France : Cashmere shawls from Bombay; wine, 
 1800 packages, from France and Portugal ; rum from the East and West Indies, and scheidam from 
 Holland; nutmegs and cloves from Penang, cinnamon from Ceylon, 840 packages of pepper from 
 Bombay, and 1790 of ginger from Calcutta ; 100 barrels of anchovies from Leghorn, a cargo of pine- 
 apples from Nassau, and 50 fine live turtles ; 64 blocks of marble from Leghorn ; tobacco from America ; 
 219 packages of treasure Spanish dollars, Sycee silver from China, rupees from Hindostan, and English 
 sovereigns." A. Day's Easiness in the Port of London, by T. Howell, Esq. 
 
 " Again, in one day's consumption, we find corahs, or silk handkerchiefs, from India ; whale-fins and 
 sperm-oil from our deep-sea fisheries ; from India shell-lac, indigo, and lac-dye ; saltpetre for gunpowder, 
 and hemp and jute for cordage ; quicksilver from the mines in Spain ; isinglass and bristles from Russia ; 
 Iceland moss, honey, and leeches from Hamburg; manna from Palermo, camphor from Calcutta, mac- 
 carom from Naples, sugar-candy from Holland, and lemon-oil from Messina; 81,0001bs. of currants from 
 the Ionian Islands. 5760 bars of iron from Sweden, and bees'-wax from the coast of Africa ; tea, sugar, 
 coflee, pepper, tobacco, spirits, and wine; watches, clocks, gloves, and glass-ware; needlework, ladies' 
 shoes, bonnets, and feathers ; toys, lace, and slate-pencils; zaffery and stavesacre from Hamburg; and 
 inkle from France." Ibid. 
 
 The river is protected by an admirable system of Police, established in 1798, and 
 merged into the Metropolitan Police in 1839. Execution Dock, at Wapping, the 
 name of one of the outlets of the river, preserves the memory of many a tale of murder 
 and piracy on the high seas ; for here used to be executed all pirates and sailors found 
 guilty of any of the greater crimes committed on ship-board. Opposite Blackwall we 
 remember to have seen the gibbets, on which the bodies were left to decay. The loss
 
 PORTUGAL-STREET. 687 
 
 of life upon the Thames, by collision of vessels and other accidents, is of frightful 
 amount; 500 persons being annually drowned in the river, and one-third of the number 
 in the Pool. 
 
 PORTUGAL-STREET, 
 
 IN the rear of the south side of Lincoln's-Inn-fields (formerly Portugal-row) has been 
 the site of three theatres, upon the north side of the street. The first theatre 
 (named the Duke's Theatre, from the Duke of York, its great patron ; and the Opera, 
 from its musical performances), was originally a tennis-court ; it was altered for Sir 
 William Davenant, and opened in 1662 with his operatic Siege of Rhodes, when 
 regular scenery was first introduced upon our stage. In the same year was produced 
 here Cowley's Cutter of Coleman-street. Here Pepys saw, March 1st, 1662, Romeo 
 and Juliet, "the first time it was ever acted;" and May 28, " Hamlett done, 
 giving us fresh reason never to think enough of Betterton." " Nov. 5. To the Duke's 
 Louse to see Macbeth, a pretty good play, but admirably acted." Pepys describes 
 " a mighty company of citizens, ordinary prentices, and mean people in the pit ;" 
 where he first saw Nell Gwyn, April 3, 1665, during the performance of Lord Orrery's 
 MustapJia, when the king and my Lady Castlemaine were there; Pepys sat in the 
 pit next to " pretty witty Nell " and Rebecca Marshall, of the King's house. Etherege's 
 Love in a Tub was so attractive here, that 1000Z. was received in one month, then a 
 great sum. Here female characters were first sustained by women ; for which purpose 
 Davenant engaged Elizabeth Davenport, the first Roxalana in the Siege of Rhodes ; 
 Mary Saunderson, famous as Queen Katherine and Juliet, and afterwards the wife of 
 Betterton; Mary or Moll Davis,* excellent in singing and dancing, afterwards the 
 mistress of Charles II. ; Mrs. Long, the mistress of the Duke of Richmond, celebrated 
 in mule characters ; Mrs. Norris, mother of Jubilee Dicky ; Mrs. Johnson, noted as a 
 dancer, and as Carolina in Shadwell's comedy of Epsom Wells. The famous 
 Mrs. Barry was brought out here after Davenaut's death. 
 
 Among the actors at the Duke's were Thomas Betterton, the rival of Burbage and Garrick, and the 
 last survivor of the old school of actors : Joseph Harris, famous for acting Romeo, Wolsey, and Sir 
 Andrew Aguecheek ; William Smith, a barrister of Gray's Inn, celebrated as Zanga in Lord Orrery's 
 Muitapha; Samuel Sandford, called by King Charles II. the best representative of a villain in the 
 world; James Nokes, famous for his bawling fops ; and Cave Underbill, clever as Cutter in Cowley's 
 comedy, and as the grave-digger in Hamlet. Abridged from Cunningham's Story of Nell Gwyn. 
 
 From 1665 (the Plague) until after the Great Fire, the theatre was closed. Davenant 
 usually resided here. 
 
 " April 9th, 1668. I up and down to the Duke of York's playhouse, there to see, which I did, Sir W. 
 Davenant's corpse carried out towards Westminster, there to be buried. Here were many coaches and 
 six horses, and many hacknies, that made it look, methought, as if it were the buriaJl of a poor poet." 
 Pepys. 
 
 In 1671-2, in Lord Orrery's pky of Senry V., at the Duke's Theatre, the actors 
 Harris, Betterton, and Smith wore the coronation suits of King Charles, the Duke of 
 York, and Lord Oxford. This year the company removed to Dorset Gardens ; and 
 the King's company, burnt out from Drury-lane, played at the Duke's Theatre till 
 1673-4, when they left it, and it again became a tennis-court. It was refitted and re- 
 opened in 1695, with (first time) Congreve's comedy of Love for Love. This second 
 theatre was taken down, and a new house built for Christopher Rich, and opened by 
 John Rich, in 1714, with Farquhar's comedy of the Recruiting Officer ; when also 
 Rich introduced the first pantomime, Rich himself playing harlequin. Here Quin 
 played his best parts ; and from a fracas in which he was embroiled, originated the 
 sergeant's guard at the Theatres Royal. The first English opera was performed here 
 in 1717-18 ; here was originally used the stage motto, Veluti in speculum ; and here 
 in 1727-8 the Beggar's Opera was produced, and played sixty -two nights the first 
 season, making " Gay rich and Rich gay." In 1732, Rich having built a theatre in 
 Covent Garden, removed there ; and the Portugal-street house was by turns let for 
 
 * In the part of Celania, in the "Rivals, altered by Davenant from Beaumont and Fletcher's Two 
 Noble Kinsmen, Moll Davis sang " My lodging is on the cold ground" " so charmingly, that not long 
 after it raised her from her bed on the cold ground to a bed royal." Downes's Boscius Anglicanut, 
 p. 24, ed. 1703.
 
 688 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Italian operas, oratorios, for balls, concerts, and exhibitions ; to Giffard, of Goodman's- 
 fields, in 1756; next as a barrack and auction-room ; and Spode and Copeland's China 
 Repository, until 1848, when the premises were sold to the College of Surgeons, 
 August 28, and were taken down for enlarging their museum. Of the theatre little 
 remained, save the outer walls, built upon an arched cellar : there was a large Queen 
 Anne staircase, a saloon upon the first floor ; and the attic, lighted by windows in the 
 roof, had been probably the scene-painting loft. Upon this site the College of Surgeons 
 completed in 1854 a third Hall for their Museum, by aid of a Parliamentary grant of 
 15,000?. 
 
 In Carey-street, nearly opposite, was a public-house and stable-yard, described in 
 Sir William Davenant's Playhouse to te Let as " our house inn, the Grange." It was 
 taken down in 1853 for the site of KING'S COLLEGE HOSPITAL, see p. 438. At the 
 north-east corner of Portugal-street was one of its olden resorts, Will's Coffee-house. 
 Portugal-street was the last locality in London where stocks lingered; those of 
 St. Clement Danes' parish being removed from here about 1820 : they faced the 
 burial-ground, where lay Joe Miller. Portugal-street acquired a sort of cant notoriety 
 from the Court for the Relief of Insolvent Debtors being here. (See p. 509.) 
 
 ZOST-OFFICE. 
 
 THE General Post-office has had five locations since the Postmaster to Charles I. 
 fixed his receiving-house in Sherborne-lane, in 1635, whence dates " the settling 
 of the letter-office of England and Scotland." The office was next removed to Cloak-lane, 
 Dovvgate ; and then to the Black Swan, Bishopsgate-street. After the Great Fire, the 
 office was shifted to the Black Pillars, in Brydges-street, Covent-garden ; thence, early 
 in the last century, to the mansion of Sir Robert Viner (close to Sherborne-lane) , in 
 Lombard-street (see pp. 394, 592) ; and the chief office to St. Martin's-le-Grand in 1829. 
 The General Post-office occupies the site of the College of St. Martin's-le-Grand, at 
 the junction with Newgate-street. It was designed by Sir R. Smirke, R.A., and was 
 built between 1825 and 1829 : it is insulated, and is externally of Portland stone ; 
 400 feet long, 130 wide, and 64 high. It stands in the three parishes of St. Anne and 
 St. Agnes, St. Leonard, and St. Michael-le-quern ; and 131 houses and nearly 1000 
 inhabitants were displaced to make room for this single edifice. Several Roman 
 remains were found during the progress of the work). The St. Martin's-le- 
 Grand fafade has three Ionic porticoes : one at each end, tetrastyle, of four fluted 
 columns ; and one in the centre, hexastyle, of six columns (from the temple of Minerva 
 Polias, at Athens) : it is surmounted by a pediment, in the tympanum of which are 
 sculptured the imperial arms of the United Kingdom j and on the frieze is inscribed, 
 " GEOEGIO QTTABTO EEGE, MDCCCXXix." Beneath are entrances to the Grand Public 
 Hall, 80 feet long by about 60 wide, divided by Ionic columns into a centre and two 
 aisles j and in the vaulted basement are the warm-air apparatus and gasometers. 
 North of the Hall are the offices for newspapers, inland letters, and foreign letters ; 
 south are the offices of the London local post ; the communication being by a tunnel 
 and railway under the Hall floor. In the middle story north are the offices for dead, 
 mis-sent, and returned letters ; south, secretary's offices, board-rooms, &c. The clock, 
 over the principal entrance, was made by Vulliamy ; the bob of the pendulum weighs 
 448 Ibs., the object being to counteract the effect of wind on the hands of the dial. In 
 the eastern front, facing Foster-lane, the letter-bags are received. The mechanical 
 contrivances for the despatch of the business of the office display great ingenuity ; steam- 
 power is variously employed : two endless chains, worked by a steam-engine, carry, in 
 rapid succession, a series of shelves, each holding four or five men and their letter-bags, 
 which are thus raised to various parts of the building. 
 
 King James II. has the credit of having established something like an organized foreign post : when 
 a man could more speedily receive a reply to a letter sent to Madrid than he could to one despatched to 
 Ireland or Scotland. The home post was in the hands of carriers, and also of pedestrian wayfarers : 
 and the former even could not convey a note to the North, and bring an answerback, under two months 
 at the very earliest. Witherings, one of the chief postmasters of Charles I.'s days, reformed this abuse. 
 He established a running-post, as it was called, between England and Scotland, the riders pushing 
 forward night and day; and it was hoped, if the thing was not actually accomplished at the time, that 
 the writer of a letter from London to Edinburgh would receive a reply within a week! When this
 
 POST-OFFICE. 689 
 
 running, or rather riding, post was established, very sanguine was Witherings. " If the post," he said, 
 " be punctually paid, the news will come sooner than thought." He considered that news which passed 
 from Edinburgh to London in three days and nights, by relays of horses, whose swinging trot never 
 ceased, was outstripping thought. Athenceum. 
 
 The arrangements for the Foreign Mails in the present day show, in a forcible man. 
 ner, the wonderful extent of British commerce and relationships. Here are depart- 
 ments for Austria, Baden, Bavaria, France, Norway, Denmark, and the most northern 
 latitudes ; the Brazils, Chili, the Equator, Spain, Sardinia, Switzerland, United States 
 of America, North America, the various districts of India, Australia, &c. Here arrange- 
 ments are made for the overland Indian and other mails. The letters, newspapers, and 
 books are secured in cases of sheet-iron, which, when full, are carefully soldered up and 
 inclosed in wooden chests, which are branded with crosses of red or black, and marked 
 with the name of the district, city, &c., at which its arrival is awaited. Each of the 
 boxes referred to weighs, when filled with letters and papers, about 86 Ibs., and the 
 ordinary Australian mail, exclusive of the portion sent overland, generally consists of 
 480 boxes of books and newspapers, and 100 boxes of letters in all 580 boxes. These 
 would weigh altogether 49,880 Ibs., equal to nearly twenty-two tons and a half. 
 
 The Mails were originally conveyed on horseback and in light carts, until 1784, 
 when mail-coaches were substituted by Mr. Palmer. The first mail-coach left the 
 Three Kings yard, Piccadilly, for Bristol, Aug. 24th, 1784. The speed of the mails 
 was at once increased from three and a half to more than six miles an hour, and sub- 
 sequently still greater acceleration was effected. About the year 1818, Mr. Macadam's 
 improved system of road-making began to be of great survice to the Post-office, by 
 enabling the mails to be much accelerated. Their speed was gradually increased to 
 ten miles an hour, and even more ; until, in the case of the Devonport mail, the journey 
 of 216 miles, including stoppages, was punctually performed in twenty-one hours and 
 fourteen minutes. In 1830, upon the opening of the line between Liverpool and 
 Manchester, the mails were for the first time conveyed by railway. In 1835 Lieu- 
 tenant "Waghorn commenced transmission to India, by the direct route through the 
 Mediterranean and over the Isthmus of Suez, a line of communication subsequently 
 extended to China and Australia. In 1859 the distance over which mails were con- 
 veyed by mail-coaches, railways, foot-messengers, and steam-packets was about 133,000 
 miles per day, this being about 3000 miles more than in the year ending 1857. In 
 the year 1859 the whole distance traversed by the various mails was thirty-seven 
 millions, five hundred and forty -five thousand miles! The annual procession of the 
 mail-coaches on the birthday of George III. (June 4) was once a metropolitan sight 
 which the king loved to see from the windows of Buckingham House. The letters are 
 now conveyed to the railways in omnibuses, nine of which are sometimes filled by one 
 n'ght's mail at one railway. In 1839 was invented the travelling post-office, in which 
 clerks sort the letters during the railway journey, and the guard ties in and exchanges 
 the letter-bags, without stopping the train. Four miles an hour was the common rate 
 of the first mail-carts ; a railway mail-train now averages twenty -four miles an hour ; 
 while, between certain stations on certain lines, a speed of fifty miles an hour is attained. 
 By the Pneumatic Despatch the mail-bags are blown through the tube in iron cars in 
 about one minute, the usual time occupied by the mail carts being about ten minutes. 
 Persons have been conveyed through the tube, and returned by vacuum, without having 
 experienced the slightest discomfort. 
 
 The Rates of Postage varied according to distance until December 5th, 1839, when 
 the uniform rate of 4d. was tried ; and January 10th, 1840, was commenced the uniform 
 rate of Id. per letter of half an ounce weight, &c. The Government received 2000 
 plans for a new system, and adopted that of Mr. Kowland Hill ; but not until the 
 change had been some years agitated by a Post Magazine established for the purpose. 
 Among the opponents of the uniform penny stamp was the Secretary of the Post-office, 
 who maintained that the revenue would not recover itself for half a century, and 
 that the poor would not write. Lord Lichfield pointed to the absurdity of supposing 
 that letters, the conveyance of which cost on an average twopence-halfpenny each, 
 could ever be carried for a penny and leave a profit on the transaction ! The uniform 
 rate was pronounced by Colonel Maberly to be " impracticable j" and as to pre-payment, 
 he was sure the public would object to it, however low the rate might be ! And a Scotch 
 
 T T
 
 690 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 journalist ridiculed the idea of persons having to stick pieces of paper upon their letters ! 
 The stamped postage-covers came into use May 6, 1840 ;* but the idea of a prepaid 
 envelope is as old as the time of Louis XIV. A pictorial envelope was designed by W. 
 Mulready, R.A., but little used. A fancied value is attached to this envelope ; for we 
 have seen advertised in the Times : " The Mulready Postage Envelope For sale, an 
 Indian-proof impression. One of six, from the original block engraved by John Thomp- 
 son in the year 1840, price 20 guineas." The postage label-stamps were first used iu 
 1841 ; perforated, 1854. 
 
 Number of Letters. The greatest number of letters, under the old system, ever 
 known to pass through the General Post-office in one day, was received there on July 
 15, 1839, viz. 90,000 ; the amount of postage being 4050Z., a sum greater by 530J. 
 than any hitherto collected in one day. In the third week of February the number of 
 letters is usually highest. The ordinary daily average is 400,000 letters ; on 19th 
 August, 1853, it reached 630,000. The number of letters which pass through the 
 Post-office in a year is nearly 400,000,000. In 1864, 679,084,822 letters passed through 
 the post, being an increase of 37,000,000 over the previous year ; and in the same 
 period the number of book -packets and newspapers which were transmitted rose to 
 over 50,000,000, or 7,000,000 more than in 1863. 
 
 " It is estimated that there lies, from time to time, in the Dead-Letter Office, undergoing the process 
 of finding owners, some 11,0002. annually, in cash alone. In July, 1847, for instance only a two months' 
 accumulation the post-haste of 4658 letters, all containing property, was arrested by the bad super- 
 scriptions of the writers. They were consigned after a searching inquest upon each by that efficient 
 coroner, the " blind clerk" to the post-office Morgue. There were bank-notes of the value of 10102., 
 and money-orders for 4072. 12. But most of these ill-directed letters contained coin in small sums, 
 amounting to 3101. 9s. 5d. On the 17th of July, 1847, there were lying in the Dead-Letter Office bills of 
 exchange for the immense sum of 40,4102. 5. 7d." (Dickens's Hovxehold Words, No. 1.) The value of 
 property contained in missing letters, during twelve months, is about 200,0004. 
 
 There are employed in the General Post-office, including the London District letter- 
 carriers, but exclusive of the receivers, 2500 persons, in different offices : Secretary's, 
 Accountant's, Receiver's, Dead-Letter, Money- Order, Inland, and London District 
 Offices. For more than half a century there were only two secretaries to the Post- 
 office, Sir Francis Freeling and Colonel Maberly. Sir Francis was brought up in the 
 Post-office, had performed the humblest as well as the highest duties of the department, 
 and was a protege of Mr. Palmer, the great Post-office reformer. He was succeeded 
 by Lieut.-Col. Maberly, M.P., who retired in 1854, when Mr. Rowland Hill, the origi- 
 nator of the penny-post, was appointed secretary ; his services were rewarded in 1846 
 by a public testimonial of 13,3602". ; Knighthood and grant. It is singular that all postal 
 reformers have been unacquainted with the department which they have revolutionized. 
 
 The net Revenue of the Post Office to the end of the year 1865 was 1,482,5222. The number of effec- 
 tive persons employed was 25,082; of pensioners, 1274; salaries, wages, allowances, &c., 1,295,1532.; 
 postage stamps, 22,0642. ; stationery, 32,3962. ; buildings, repairs, &c., 75,3311. ; conveyance by coaches, 
 carts, &c., 140,5172. ; by railways, 528,2202. ; of mails by private ships and by packets, &c., 796,3972. ; over 
 the isthmuses of Suez and Panama, with salaries of Admiralty agents, &c., 28,7862. ; and for mail-bags 
 and boxes, tolls, &c., 22,2202. ; a total for conveyance of 1,516,4422. 
 
 THE PENNY POST was originally projected by Robert Murray, a milliner, of the 
 Company of Clothworkers j and William Dockwra, a sub-searcher in the Customs. It 
 was commenced as a foot-post, in 1680, with four deliveries a day. These projectors, 
 however, quarrelled : Murray set up his office at Hall's Coffee-house, in Wood-street ; 
 
 * But a Stockholm paper, The Fryskitten, says, that so far hack as 1823, a Swedish officer, Lieutenant 
 Trekenber, petitioned the Chamber of Nobles to propose to the Government to issue stamped paper 
 specially destined to serve for envelopes for prepaid letters ; hut the proposition, though warmly sup- 
 ported as likely to be convenient to the public and the post-office, was rejected by a large majority. 
 For ten years England alone made use of the postage stamp. France adopted it on the 1st of January, 
 1849 ; the Tour and Taxis Office introduced it into Germany hi the year 1850 ; and it is now hi use in 
 69 countries in Europe, 9 in Africa, 5 hi Asia, 36 hi America, and 10 hi Oceania. About 60 postage 
 stamps may be counted in the United States alone. Van Diemen's Land possesses its own; also Hayti, 
 Natal, Honolulu, and Liberia. A very curious little book gives an account, in the form of a catalogue, 
 of the postage stamps of all nations. Of these there are more than 1200 varieties. Not only have the 
 colonies of this and other countries, as the Bahamas and Iceland, their separate stamps, but in America 
 
 stamps as 
 The New 
 
 _ _ ame 
 
 colony a stamp was prepared having on it the effigy of Mr. 6'Counell, the local postmaster-general, 
 but this appears not to have been issued.
 
 POULTRY. 691 
 
 and Dockwra, at the Penny Post-house in Lime-street, formerly the mansion of Sir 
 Robert Abdy. But this was considered an infringement on the right of the Duke of 
 York, on whom the Post-office revenue had been settled ; and in a suit to try the 
 question, a verdict was given against Dockwra. He was compensated by a pension, 
 and appointed Comptroller of the Penny Post, but was dismissed in 1698. The first 
 office was in Cornhill, near the 'Change : parcels were received. In 1708, one Povey 
 set up the " Halfpenny Carriage" private post, which was soon suppressed by the Post- 
 office authorities. They continued to convey parcels down to 1765, when the weight 
 was limited to four ounces. The postage was paid in advance down to 1794. In 1801 
 the Penny Post became a Twopenny Post ; and the postage was advanced to three- 
 pence beyond the limits of London, Southwark, and Westminster ; but in 1840 they 
 were consolidated with the Penny General Post. 
 
 The Money -Order Office, a distinct branch of the Post-office, is a handsome new 
 edifice on the west side of St. Martin's-le-Grand. Money-orders are issued by millions 
 during the year, in numbers and amount, and have considerably added by commission 
 to the Post-office revenue. 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 fPHE street extending from the east end of Cheapside to Mansion-house-street was 
 -L anciently occupied by the poulterers' stalls of Stocks Market, who in Stow's 
 time had "but lately departed from thence into other streets" (Gracechurch-street 
 and Newgate-market). In Scalding-alley (now St. Mildred's-court) was a large house 
 where the poulterers scalded their poultry for sale. It was also called Coneyhope, or 
 Conning-shop, or Cony-shop, lane, from the sign of three conies (rabbits) hanging 
 over a poulterer's stall at the lane end. Here was built the chapel of St. Mildred, 
 called in old records, Ecclesia Mildreda super Walbrooke, vel in Pulletria ; una cum 
 capella beatce Maria de Conyhop eidem annexa : the site is now occupied by the 
 church of St. Mildred in the Poultry, described at p. 192. 
 
 On the same side, between Nos. 31 and 32, was the oultry Compter, a Sheriff's 
 prison, taken down in 1817, and Poulfry Chapel built upon the site. To the Compter 
 were sent persons committed by the Lord Mayor; and to the prisoners was given the 
 broken victuals from the Mansion-house tables. " Doctor Lamb," the conjuror, died 
 in this prison, Jan. 13, 1628, after being chased and pelted by the mob across Moor- 
 fields ; for which outrage the City was fined 6000Z. Here died six Separatists who had 
 been committed by Bishop Bonner for hearing the Scriptures read in their own houses. 
 John Dunton, the bookseller, in 1688, on the day the Prince of Orange entered 
 London, transferred himself and his sign of the Slack Haven opposite the Poultry 
 Compter, where he prospered for ten years. The prison was, in 1806, in a ruinous 
 condition ; but the court was cheerful, " having water continually running :" it was 
 the only prison in England that had a ward exclusively for Jews ; there were " the 
 Bell," and two other rooms, "very strong, studded with nails," for felons. The 
 debtors were allowed to walk upon the leads with the gaoler. 
 
 Hatton (1708) calls the Poultry " a broad street of very tall buildings." At No. 22 
 lived the booksellers Dilly, famed for their hospitality to literary men: here Dr. 
 Johnson first met Wilkes; and Boswell, Cumberland, Knox, and Isaac Reed often 
 met. Dilly was the first publisher of Boswell's Life of Johnson ; the firm was also 
 noted for the works of Doddridge, Watts, Lardner, &c. At No. 31 lived Vernor and 
 Hood, the publishers of Bloomfield's poems ; and the Beauties of England and Wales, 
 an unequal and unsatisfactory work. Hood was the father of Thomas Hood, the wit 
 and humorist, who was born in the Poultry in 1798 : " there was a dash of ink in 
 my blood (writes Tom) ; my father wrote two novels, and my brother was decidedly of 
 a literary turn." 
 
 No. 25, Poultry, was the old King's Head Tavern, where Charles II. stopped, on 
 the day of his restoration, to salute the landlady. It was, to the last, noticed for its 
 " lively turtle." In the Beaufoy Collection, in the Corporation Library, are Tokens of 
 the Base Tavern, in the Poultry, mentioned by Ned Ward (London Spy, 1709) as 
 
 y Y 2
 
 692 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 famous for its wine ; the Three Cranes, destroyed in the Great Fire, hut rehuilt ; and 
 the Exchange Tavern, 1671, with, on the ohverse, a view of the Royal Exchange 
 quadrangle. At the Three Cranes met "the Mendicants' Convivial Club," sub- 
 sequently removed to Dyot-street, St. Giles's. 
 
 PRIMEOSE-HILL 
 
 WAS named from the primroses that formerly grew here in great plenty, when it 
 was comparatively an untrodden hillock, in the fields between Tottenham Court 
 and Hampstead. It has also been called Green Berry-Hill, from the names of three 
 persons executed for the murder of Sir Edmund Berry Godfrey, whose body was found 
 here, Oct. 17, 1678. On the south side of the hill, during a summer drought, may be 
 traced a green line, which was once a ditch, extending from east to the ground west- 
 ward now occupied by the New-Eiver Reservoir. In that ditch, near the site of the 
 Waterworks steam-engine chimney-shaft, was found Godfrey's body, as thus described 
 in a letter written in 1681 : 
 
 "As to the place, it was in a ditch on the south side of Primrose Hill, surrounded with divers closes, 
 fenced in with high mounds and ditches ; no roads near, only some deep, dirty'lanes, made only for the 
 conveniency of driving cows in and out of the ground ; and those very lanes not coming near five hun- 
 dred yards of the place, and impossible for any man on horseback with a dead corpse before him at 
 midnight to approach, unless gaps were made in the mounds, as the constable and his assistants found 
 by experience when they came on horseback thither." 
 
 At the trial, before the Lord Chief- Justice Scroggs, Feb. 10, 1679, the infamous wit- 
 nesses, Gates, Prance, and Bedloe, declared that the unfortunate magistrate, Godfrey, 
 " was waylaid and inveigled into the Palace (Somerset House), under the pretence of 
 keeping the peace between two servants who were fighting in the yard; that he was 
 there strangled, his neck broke, and his own sword run through bis body ; that he was 
 kept four days before they ventured to remove him ; at length his corpse was first 
 carried in a sedan-chair to Soho, and then on a horse to Primrose Hill," as represented 
 on one of the several medals struck as memorials of the mysterious murder. The body 
 was carried to " the White House," then the farm-house of the estate of Chalcott's, 
 abbreviated to Chalc's, and then corrupted to Chalk Farm, which was long a tavern 
 noted for duels fought here. The summit of the hill is 206 feet above the Trinity 
 high-water mark of the Thames. (See PBIHBOSE-HILL PARK, p. 650.) 
 
 Primrose Hill is a portion of the land bequeathed by " sundry devout men of London" 
 to St. James's Hospital, but granted by Henry VI. to Eton College, surrendered to 
 Henry VIII., but again returned to the College, who, a few years since, transferred it 
 to the Government in exchange for a piece of crown-land near Windsor; which was 
 done principally through the exertions of Mr. Hume, M.P., and an Association of per- 
 sons formed for securing the ground to the public. In the ridge adjoining is the Prim- 
 rose Hill Tunnel of the London and North- Western Railway ; its extent is 3493 feet, 
 or more than five-eighths of a mile : in tunnelling near the base of the hill, fossil 
 nautili were discovered. 
 
 The View from Primrose Sill comprises not only London, with its masses of houses and hundreds 
 of spires, but also the once rural retreats of Hampstead and Highgate, now almost become portions of 
 the great town itself. Opposite is St. John's Wood, and in the rear of St. John's Wood the graceful 
 spire of Harrow-on-the-Hill; nearer the spectator are the close streets of Portland Town, and the 
 elegant domain of Regent's Park. The eye, after resting upon St. Paul's as the nucleus of the vast 
 city, glances over Islington and Holloway to the undulating hills of Kent and Surrey j and upon a clear 
 day may be descried the bright roofs of the Crystal Palace at Sydenham. 
 
 PRISONS. 
 
 FTPWARDS of 30,000 criminals and other persons (exclusive of debtors) are stated to 
 U pass through the metropolitan gaols, houses of correction, bridewells, and peni- 
 tentiaries, every year. The number of prisons is smaller than half a century since ; 
 but the prisons themselves are of much larger extent. In 1796 there were eighteen 
 prisons in London, which in 1854 had been reduced one-third. About the year 1849 
 Mr. Dixon wrote in the Daily News an account of the chief prisons, which was re- 
 printed in 1850 ; and Mr. Henry Mayhew's work on the Criminal Prisons, 1855, was
 
 PRISONS. 693 
 
 completed in 1863. Mr. Dixon tells us that, " All the great London gaols are pro- 
 vided with stands of arms, by which men could be armed in a few minutes ; beside s 
 signal-rockets, whicli would instantly convey intelligence to the Horse Guards, and to 
 the barracks in St. James's and Hyde Parks, of any attack ; so that 2000 or 3000 
 men could be concentrated at any prison in half an hour." 
 
 BOBOUGH COMPTEB, Mill-lane, Tooley-street (solely for debtors from the Borough 
 of Southwark), was originally part of the church of St. Margaret, at St. Margaret's 
 Hill, where the prison site is denoted by Counter (Compter) street. 
 
 BRIDEWELL, Bridge-street, Blackfriars, the prison taken down in 1862, is described 
 at pp. 62-65. 
 
 BEIXTON COUNTY HOUSE OF COEBECTION, Surrey, was built in 1820, for prisoners 
 sentenced to hard-labour. The plan of the prison is octagonal, with a chapel in the 
 centre. The prisoners are separated into classes; here have been imprisoned at one 
 time 340. The treadmill, adapted from an old contrivance, by Cubitt, an engineer, 
 of Lowestoft, was first set up at Brixton Prison in 1817; from its severity of applica- 
 tion it became very unpopular, and " Brixton" became a low cant word. 
 
 CITY PRISON, Camden-road, Holloway, is built upon land originally purchased by 
 the Corporation for a cemetery, during the raging of the cholera in 1832. The extent 
 is 10 acres within the boundary-wall, 18 feet high. The prison, designed by Bunning, 
 is built in the castellated style, has fortified gateways, and is embattled throughout the 
 six radiating wings; the number of cells is 436; the building is fire-proof; the venti- 
 lation is by a shaft 146 feet high ; the water-supply from an Artesian well, 319 feet 
 deep. The prisoners are variously employed ; and the discipline is neither entire sepa- 
 ration nor association, but the middle course. The prison was first opened Oct. 6, 
 1852. Cost, about 100,OOOJ. 
 
 CLEEKENWELL BRIDEWELL. There were formerly two gaols in Clerkenwell, adjoining 
 each other ; the oldest was the New Prison, or Bridewell, built by the Justices in 1615, 
 upon the site of " the Cage," for the punishment and employment of rogues and vaga- 
 bonds of Middlesex. On Shrove Tuesday, 1617, the turbulent London 'prentices " had 
 a cast at the New Bridewell." Between 1622 and 1626, many popish priests were 
 imprisoned here, among whom was Collington, whose release was granted at the in- 
 stance of Count Gondornar. A friend of the wife of Pepys was imprisoned here in 1661 ; 
 and the Diary tells us that he went, December 11, with his "wife by coach to Clerk- 
 enwell to see Mrs. Margaret Penny, who is at school there," undergoing correction, of 
 course. On Shrove Tuesday, 1668, a mob of the London 'prentices again assailed the 
 New Prison, and released a number of their riotous associates imprisoned there. In 
 1679 the greatest part of the prison was burnt down, suspected to be the wicked 
 work of a papist prisoner. About 1630, Taylor, the water poet, noticed the prison as _ 
 
 " A .jayle for hereticks, 
 For Brownists, Fanailists, and Schismaticks." 
 
 In 1651 several enthusiasts were committed here for blasphemy. In 1669, Richard 
 Baxter, the Nonconformist, was confined here for preaching in his own house at Acton. 
 The honest jailor allowed him to walk in the garden at Clerkenwell, and while here he 
 published the second part of his Directions to the Converted. Here, 1775, was com- 
 mitted the first person convicted of dog-stealing. This bridewell was taken down 
 about 1804. (See NEW PEISON, p. 699.) 
 
 CLINK, THE, Bankside, was named from being the prison of the " Clink Liberty," 
 in Southwark, belonging to the Bishops of Winchester ; and was used in old time " for 
 such as would brabble, frey, or break the peace on the said bank, or in the brothel- 
 houses." (Stow.) About 1745, the old prison, at the corner of Maid-lane, was 
 abandoned, and a dwelling on the Bankside appropriated in its stead ; this was burnt 
 in the riots of 1780, and no other prison has since been established for the liberty. 
 
 The palace of the Bishops of Winchester, at Bankside, was made a prison during 
 the Civil Wars : Sir Kenelm Digby, while confined here as a Royalist, wrote his refu- 
 tation of Browne's Religio Medici. 
 
 COLDBATH FIELDS PRISON, OB HOUSE OF CORRECTION, is for criminals sentenced
 
 694 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 to short terms of imprisonment, and is supported out of the county (Middlesex) rates. 
 The prisoners are compelled to labour as a punishment and towards their support. 
 The prison is named from the Coldbath well, the site of which is now occupied by the 
 treadwheel. The original House of Correction was built in the reign of James I., 
 the City authorities giving 5001. towards it, for keeping their poor employed. The 
 present gaol was erected by the county, in 1794, on the eastern slope of the Fleet, 
 on Gardner's Farm, or Field, the ground being considerably raised ; architect, Charles 
 Middleton ; cost, 65,656?., providing for only 232 prisoners, in separate cells, upon the 
 plan of John Howard. It was opened in 1794, but soon got into disrepute ; " men, 
 women, and boys were indiscriminately herded together in this chief county prison, 
 without employment or wholesome control ; while smoking, gaming, singing, and every 
 species of brutalizing conversation, tended to the unlimited advancement of crime and 
 pollution." (Chesterton's Revelations of Prison Life). The dungeons were composed 
 of bricks and stones, without fire or any furniture but straw, and no other barrier 
 against the weather but iron grates. The Minister Pitt, in the year 1799, visited 
 the prison, and found the prisoners without fire or candles, denied all society, 
 exposed to the cold and rain, allowed to breathe the air out of their cells only for an hour, 
 &c. ; Pitt ironically supposing that those who managed the prison " kindly subjected 
 the prisoners to so much pain in this world, that less punishment might be inflicted on 
 them in the next." Coleridge and Southey, in the Devil's Walk, sung : 
 
 "As he pass'd through Coldbath Fields he looked 
 
 At a solitary cell, 
 And he was well pleased, for it gave him a hint 
 
 For improving his prisons in hell ; 
 He saw a turnkey tie a thief s hands, 
 
 With a cordial tug and a jerk; 
 ' Nimbly,' quoth he, ' a man's fingers can move 
 
 When his heart is in his work.' " 
 
 Much scandalous mismanagement continued so late as 1829. Captain Chesterton, in his Evidence 
 before the Magistrates, stated that " on becoming Governor of the House of Correction he found it usual 
 to fleece the prisoners of every farthing they possessed or could procure from their friends all the officers 
 having paid for their posts, and being eager to indemnify themselves. If a prisoner had no money he 
 was kicked and buffeted in the most merciless manner. The visit of a magistrate was always known 
 and prepared for beforehand. Every cell was a depot for contraband articles, especially for wine and 
 spirits. The prisoners slept three in a cell." 
 
 The mixed system means silence by day and sleep at night in separate cells. The mark system means 
 substitution of a labour sentence for time sentences; instead of a sentence to fourteen years' imprison- 
 ment, the culprit would be sentenced to perform a certain quantity of labour, represented by marks 
 instead of money; the criminal to be liberated when the prescribed task was accomplished, whether he 
 occupied one year or twenty about it. Here 272 persons were employed to superintend 682 prisoners; 
 yet even this large staff were found insufficient to prevent all intercourse among the. criminals. The 
 necessity for punishment perpetually arose. There were no less than 6794 punishments inflicted for 
 talking in a single year. 
 
 The governor Aris, formerly a baker in Clerkenwell, was denounced as " a reputed 
 tyrant and torturer j" and in 1800, a riot took place in the prison, which the Clerken- 
 well volunteers suppressed. Volunteers from the adjacent parishes then watched the 
 prison, and the Clerkenwell cavalry paraded round the outer gates for several nights 
 to keep the mob off. Aris was dismissed from his office, and he died in poverty. In 
 1830, several persons were confined here for selling unstamped newspapers, when an, 
 attack being meditated to liberate the " political martyrs," the prison was put in a 
 state of defence : " we received," says the late governor, Colonel Chesterton, " in addi- 
 tion to what we already possessed, from the Tower, 25 carbines, 2000 rounds of ball- 
 cartridge, and 1500 hand-grenades;" scaling ladders were manufactured, and the 
 governor's house was fortified, but no attack was made. In 1834 the silent system 
 was introduced, and 914 prisoners were suddenly apprised that " all intercommunica- 
 tion by word, gesture, or sign was prohibited." The treadwheel had been previously 
 introduced, 12,000 feet of ascent being the amount of the daily " hard labour" sentence, 
 which being injurious to health, was limited to 1200 feet. The picking of oakum or 
 coir is enforced here, the silent associated system is continued, and the prison " has 
 the thorough aspect of an old English jaiL" 
 
 _The prison uniform is coarse woollen blue cloth for misdemeanants, and dark grey for felons : each 
 prisoner is known only by the number on his back ; and a star upon the arm denotes good conduct. 
 The workshop is an interesting scene ; but the oakum-picking-room, with its felon faces, is a painful 
 sight : and the treadwheel, employing 320 prisoners at a time, is another repulsive feature. Carpenters,
 
 PRISONS. 695 
 
 tinmen, blacksmiths, and other handicraftsmen work here; and in the ground is the upper part of a 
 vessel, with masts and rigging, for teaching boys the sea-service ; there are also schools and reforma- 
 tory visits. (See Dixou's London Prisons, 1850.) 
 
 Large additions have been made to this prison. In 1830, a vagrants' ward for 150 
 was added, then a female ward for 300 ; the gaol has proper accommodation for 
 upwards of 1500 prisoners, males only. There were formerly six distinct treadwheels, 
 there is now treadwheel labour for 1 60 prisoners : the mill grinds wheat, and from the 
 flour which it yields (about 30 cwt. daily) bread for the three county prisons is made. 
 In 1862, there were here upwards of 1700 felons, misdemeanants, and vagrants, and 
 sometimes are 700 or 800 in excess of the number of cells. The annual ordinary 
 charge per prisoner has been estimated at 211. 19s. 4d. Money received in the year 
 for products of the prisoners' labour, 1901 1. 3s. 5d. ; prisoners' earnings in work for 
 the county, 4300Z. 18s. Sd. viz., shoemaking, bricklaying, and other repairs, tailoring, 
 washing, needlework, and painting. There are two chapels and two chaplains, two 
 schoolmasters, and abundance of books of religious and secular instruction. The prison 
 is well described in Pinks's History of Clerkenwell, 1865. 
 
 In 1820 the Cato-street conspirators were lodged here before being sent to the Tower. John Hunt 
 was imprisoned here for a libel on George IV. " I sometimes," says Mr. Bedding, " beguiled an hour 
 with him at chess. He had a lofty and comfortable, though small apartment, at the top of the prison, 
 where the air was excellent. Towusend, one of the Bow-street officers, was governor of the prison, and 
 an excellent governor he made. John Hunt had the privilege of walking for a couple of hours daily in 
 the governor's garden, for which he alone was indebted to the governor himself." Cyrus Bedding's 
 Recollections. 
 
 In 1863, the prison was enlarged by the addition of 326 cells on the separate system, 
 heated, lighted, and ventilated, and each furnished with a bed or hammock ; previously, 
 about 250 slept every night on the floor of a work-room. The wall circuit has also 
 been extended, so as to inclose the piece of vacant ground facing the governor's house, 
 and this has been rebuilt, as well as the lofty prison gateway, with the three sabres 
 and the conventional fetters, a pair of gigantic knockers, &c. The warders wear blue 
 uniforms instead of the gaolers' habit as of old. 
 
 FLEET PBISON is described at pp. 344-346. 
 
 GILTSPTJE-STEEET CoMPTEE, or the City House of Correction, was built by George 
 Dance, in 1791, to supersede the wretched prison in Wood-street, whence the prisoners 
 were removed in 1791 : it was then only used for debtors, but subsequently for remands 
 and committals for trial, and minor offenders. The rear of the prison abutted on 
 Christ's Hospital, and its towers are visible from the yard : the happy shouts of the 
 boys at play were heard by the prisoners, and the balls often fell within the prison- 
 yards, as if to remind the fallen inmates how much innocence they had outlived ! In 
 1808 Sheriff Phillips described Giltspur-street, with its corner, entitled "Ludgate" 
 (for citizen debtors, clergymen, proctors, and attorneys), and the whole prison, as 
 greatly overcrowded by the removal to it of the Poultry Compter debtors. The soli- 
 tary confinement was in front of the building, where, however, the prisoners could see 
 the busy street, and the crowds to witness executions in front of Newgate. About 6000 
 prisoners were annually committed to Giltspur-street ; but it was one of the worst 
 managed and least secure of the metropolitan prisons, and the escapes from it were the 
 most frequent. As a proof of the lenity of its management, it is related that, on the 
 death of Mr. Teague, the humane governor of Giltspur-street Compter, in 1841, nearly 
 every prisoner wore a black crape hat-band ! The prison was closed in 1854, when 
 the keeper had a retiring allowance of 300Z. a year : it has since been taken down. 
 
 HOESEMONGEE-LANE GAOL, on the south side of Newington Causeway, was built 
 upon the plan of John Howard, in 1791-9 (George Gwilt, architect), upon the site of 
 a market-garden. It is a common gaol for the county of Surrey, under the Sheriff, 
 Court of Quarter Sessions, and Magistrates, and is for debtors and criminals. Three 
 sides of the prison quadrangle are for the confinement of felons, and one side for debtors, 
 the latter arranged in classes. Among several small benefactions to the debtors is a 
 donation made to the old White Lion Prison in Southwark (mentioned by Stow), by 
 Mrs. Margaret Symcott, or Eleanor Gwynne, of 65 penny-loaves, every eight weeks, 
 issuing from the Chamberlain's office. (Manning and Bray's Surrey, vol. Hi. App.
 
 696 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 See INNS, page 458). The employments are knitting, netting, oakum-picking, lime- 
 washing, and cleansing the gaol : it will contain about 400 prisoners. 
 
 Upon the roof of the north lodge were executed, on Feb. 21, 1803, Colonel Edward 
 Marcus Despard and six associates, who had been tried and found guilty, by a special 
 commission, of high treason ; Richard Patch for murder, April 8, 1806 ; and Nov. 13, 
 1849, the Mannings, husband and wife, for murder. Leigh Hunt was imprisoned here 
 for a libel on the Prince Eegent, in 1813; and here he was first introduced to Lord 
 Byron. (See Leigh Hunt's Autobiography, vol. ii.) In June, 1849, three burglars 
 escaped from their cells in this prison by means of a key which they made from a 
 pewter pot ; but they were recaptured in scaling the 20-feet wall. 
 
 LTTDGATE PBISON is described at page 538, where the romantic story of Sir Stephen 
 Forster is narrated. This ancient City gate was made a prison in 1373, for poor debtors 
 who were free of the City, who, however, had to pay lodgings, chamber-rent, and for 
 water, since Forster's provisions were neglected. When the gate was taken down, the 
 prisoners were removed to the London Workhouse, in Bishopsgate-street. 
 
 This prison had some curious regulations. To preserve order the master, keeper, and prisoners 
 chose from among themselves a reader of divine service ; an upper steward, called the master of the 
 box; an under steward, and seven assistants by turns daily; a running assistant, two churchwardens, 
 a scavenger, a chamberlain, a running post; and the criers or beggars at the gate (such as we remem- 
 ber at the Fleet), who were generally six in number. The reader, besides attending to prayers, had to 
 ring the bell twice a day, and for a quarter of an hour before nine at night, to warn strangers to 
 depart the prison : besides his salary and fees, he had a dish of meat out of the Lord Mayor's basket. 
 The master of the box, with the under steward, assistants, and churchwardens were elected monthly by 
 the prisoners; and the election of other officers was conducted in the most orderly manner. The offi- 
 ciating assistant could commit a prisoner to the stocks, or shackles, for abusing any person, and he had 
 to see the cellar cleared out at ten o'clock ; he had also to set up candles, look after the dock, &c. The 
 churchwardens had to call to prayers, after the bell had done ringing. The scavenger had to keep the 
 prison clean, to fetter offenders, and put them in the stocks. The chamberlain took care of all the 
 prison bedding and linen, and appointed lodgings for new comers, and gave notice to strangers to leave 
 at ten o'clock. The running post had to fetch in a basket the broken meat from the Lord Mayor's 
 table, provisions from the clerk of the market, from private families, and the charities given in the 
 streets. Two of the criers begged daily at the gates ; he at Ludgate-street was allowed'a fourth of what 
 was given, and he on the Blackfriars' side one-half. Notwithstanding this complex machinery corrup- 
 tion crept in : the keeper and turnkey of the prison claimed fees without either right or reason. The 
 prisoners had to pay 8d. a month for clean sheets, and not above two were to lie in a bed ; for a couch, 
 Id. a week ; for chamber-room, &c., Id. a week for lamps and candles. A freeman of the City, on being 
 arrested for debt, could insist upon being carried to the Ludgate Prison ; bailiffs' fees, 4s. or 5*., due 
 2d. If new comers could not pay the demands, the clothes of the poor prisoner were privately taken, 
 from him, and not returned until the money was paid. He was, however, allowed to go abroad, on. 
 giving good security to return at night, for the charge of a keeper's fee, 1*. 6d.; head turnkey, 2s. 6d. 
 Often the discharge fees came to more than the debt. Hungry, and at times almost naked, the poor 
 prisoners lay in these unsanitary dens until death. There was a gift to this prison, called Nell G Wynne's 
 dole, distributed to prisoners every ninth week. Some of the old statues from Ludgate remain, but 
 railway trains now rattle over the prison site. 
 
 As early as 1218, Ludgate was a common gaol for felons taken in London City; and 
 so lately as 1457, Newgate, and not the Tower, was the prison for the nobility and 
 great officers of State. In 1252, one John Offrem, committed to this prison for having 
 killed a prior, escaped, which so displeased King Henry III. with the City, that the 
 sheriffs were sent to the Tower, and there remained a month. In 1431, in consequence 
 of a false complaint made by the keeper of Newgate, eighteen freemen were taken to 
 the compters, and chained as if they had been felons. 
 
 MAESHALSEA PRISON, "so called as pertaining to the Marshalles of England" 
 (Stow), stood in High-street, Southwark. Here were confined persons guilty of 
 piracies and other offences on the high seas. (See page 509). In 1377 it was broken 
 into by a mob of sailors, who murdered a gentleman confined in it for killing one of 
 their comrades, but had been pardoned. During the rebellion of Wat Tyler, in 1381, 
 the marshal of this prison, and the governor of the King's Bench, Sir John Imwortb, 
 was seized and beheaded. 
 
 ' " To the Marshalsea Bishop Bonner was sent, on losing his see of London for adherence to Rome. 
 A man meeting him cried, ' Good morrow, bishop quondam ;' to which Bonner replied, ' Farewell, knave 
 semper.' He lived ten years in the Marshalsea, and died there Sept. 5, 1569; he was buried at mid- 
 
 ' 
 
 ower. rsoper rooe, e poe, was conne n e arsasea or eng concerne n e 
 wedding of Dr. Uonne. George Wither was committed here for writing the satire, Abuses Stript and 
 Whipt; but he procured his release by his Satire to the King." Dixon, London Prisons, abridged. 
 Garrick played for the benefit of the prisoners, at Drury-lane, "being the first application of this
 
 PRISONS. 697 
 
 kind," the Provoked Wife, Sir John Brute, Garrick; Lady Fanciful, Mrs. Clive; Lady Brute, Mrs. 
 Pritchard. Farce of Duke and No Duke, Trappolin, Mr. Woodward. Tickets to be had at the Marshal- 
 sea Prison, Southwark. 
 
 The Marshalsea escaped the riots of 1780. The old prison, which contained about 
 sixty rooms and a chapel, occupied the site of the house, No. 119, High-street ; it was 
 then removed to other premises nearer St. George's Church ; and these were taken 
 down in 1842, when the prisoners were drafted to the Queen's Bench. (See MAB- 
 SHALSEA and PALACE COURT, page 509.) 
 
 MILLBANK PRISON, Westminster, near the foot of Vauxhall Bridge, is the largest 
 penal establishment in England. The site was purchased, in 1799, of the Marquis of 
 Salisbury, for 12,000.; but the building was not commenced until 1812, when a con- 
 tract was entered into by the Government with Jeremy Bentham ; and the edifice is a 
 modification of his " Panopticon, or Inspection House." It was next changed into a 
 regular Government prison for criminals, adult and juvenile, and became the general 
 depot for transports waiting' to be drafted to other prisons, or placed on shipboard for 
 dockyard labour ; and here are sent the most reckless and hardened criminals from all 
 parts of the country. The soil of the site is a deep peat, and the buildings are laid on 
 a solid and expensive concrete ; but the situation is low and unhealthy. The prison 
 cost half a million of money, or about 500/. for each cell ! The only entrance is in the 
 Thames front. The ground-plan consists of six pentagonal buildings, radiating from 
 a circle, wherein is the governor's house ; and each line terminates in a tower in the 
 outer octagonal wall, which incloses about 16 acres; 7 covered with buildings, in- 
 cluding 12 chapels and airing-yards, and 9 laid out as gardens. The corridors are 
 upwards of 3 miles long ; there are about 1550 cells ; and from 4000 to 5000 persons 
 pass through the prison yearly. There are 40 staircases, making in all 3 miles distance. 
 In 1843 the name of the Penitentiary was changed, by Act of Parliament, to the 
 Millbank Prison. From the general resemblance of its conical-roofed towers to those 
 of the Bastile du Temple at Paris, as well as from the severity of its system, the Peni- 
 tentiary has been stigmatized as " the English Bastile." 
 
 " The dark cells, 20 steps below the ground-floor, are small, ill-ventilated, and doubly barred ; and no 
 glimpse of day ever enters this fearful place, where the offender is locked up for three days, fed upon 
 bread and water, and has only a board to sleep on." Dixon, 1850. 
 
 NEWGATE, on the east side of the Old Bailey, is now used as a gaol of detention for 
 persons about to be tried at the adjacent Central Criminal Court ; here are also con- 
 fined prisoners convicted of assaults or offences on the high seas, and those who are 
 under sentence of death. Until 1815, when Whitecross-street prison was built, New- 
 gate was used for debtors as well as felons : hence its " Debtors' Door." 
 
 Sheriff Hoare, 1740-1, tells us how the names of the prisoners in each gaol were read over to him 
 and his colleague; the keepers acknowledged them, one by one, to be in their custody; and then ten- 
 dered the keys, which were delivered back to them again; and after haying executed the indentures, the 
 Sheriffs partook of sack and walnuts, provided by the keepers of the prison, at a tavern adjoining Guild- 
 hall. Formerly the Sheriffs attended the Lord Mayor, on Easter-eve, " through the streets, to collect 
 charity for the prisoners in the City prisons." 
 
 Old Newgate prison was over and about the City gate " so called, as built after the 
 four principal gates were reckoned old." It was merely a tower or appendage to the 
 gate, which stretched across the west end of Newgate-street; still, from the time of 
 King John to that of Charles II., it was sufficient prison-room for the City and county. 
 It was originally " Chamberlain Gate," and was rebuilt by the executors of Sir Richard 
 Whittington, whose statue, with the traditional cat, was placed in a niche upon the 
 wall. Here were also statues of Concord, Mercy, Justice and Truth, Peace and 
 Plenty, &c. 
 
 " In the Beaufoy Collection, at Guildhall, is a Newgate Prison Token, No. 715. Obv. Belonging to 
 
 ye cellor on the masters side at 1669. Rev. Newgate View of Newgate and the Debtors' Prison. 
 
 This token was struck as a monetary medium among the prisoners, and is of the utmost rarity and 
 interest, from the delineation of the prison it affords." Burn's Descriptive Catalogue, p. 138. 
 
 Newgate was restored by Wren in 1672, after the Great Fire ; but it was burnt to 
 the ground in the riots of 1780, when the rioters stole the keys, which were found 
 some time after in the basin of water in St. James's-square. Dr. Johnson and Dr. 
 Scott (Lord Stowell) saw Newgate in ruins, " with the fire yet glowing :" the iron bars 
 were eaten through, and the stones vitrified by the intense heat.
 
 698 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 On the top of Old Newgate, as shown in prints, was a windmill, an early attempt at ventilation. 
 " For," says Chamberlain, in 1770, " a contagious disease, called the gaol distemper, has frequently 
 destroyed great numbers of prisoners, and even carried its contagion into courts of justice, when trials 
 were held. To prevent as much as possible these dreadful effects, a ventilator has been placed on the 
 top of Newgate, to expel the foul air, and make way for the admission of such as is fresh; and during 
 the time that the sessions are held herbs are also strewed in the court of justice, and in the passages 
 leading thereto, to prevent infection," which practice is continued to this day. 
 
 Memorable Imprisonments. Newgate was used as a state-prison long before the Tower. Bobert 
 Baldock, chancellor to Edward III., died here. Here were imprisoned John Bradford, of Manchester, 
 the friend of Ridley; the intrepid John Rough; John Field and Thomas Wilcpx, in 1572, for writing 
 the celebrated Admonition to Parliament for the Reformation of Church Discipline ; and here, in prison, 
 they maintained the Whitgift controversy. Dr. Leighton (ten years), for writing his Appeal to Par- 
 liament. George Wither, the poet, for writing the Vox Vulgi. George Sackville, poet, rake, and Earl 
 of Dorset, occupied a cell in Newgate. In 1672, Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, was confined here 
 six months, for street-preaching ; Titus Gates and Dangerfield were sent here, and Dangerfield died in 
 the prison. At the Revolution, Bishops Ellis and Leyburn were confined here, and were visited by 
 Burnet. Defoe was committed to Newgate for writing his Shortest Way with Dissenters ; and here he 
 wrote An Ode to the Pillory, and commenced his Review. Major Bernard!, suspected of plotting with 
 Rookwood against King William, died in Newgate, after seven years' confinement. Richard Akcrman, 
 Boswell's friend, was gaoler. (Abridged from Dixon on the London Prisons) Dr. Dodd, while impri- 
 soned here, finished a comedy (Sir Roger de Coverley) : and after conviction, wrote his Prison Thoughts. 
 Jack Sheppard escaped from "the Castle in Newgate;" and from "the Middle Stone Room," after his 
 being retaken in Drury-lane. His portrait was painted in the prison by Sir James Thornhill. The 
 Seggar's Opera was first called A Newgate Pastoral. The trials are reported in the Newgate Calendar ; 
 and in the Annals of Newgate, by the Rev. Mr. Vilette, Ordinary, 
 
 The present " prison of Newgate" was designed, in 1770, by George Dance, R.A., 
 and is one of his finest works : the architecture bespeaks the purposes of the structure, 
 and its solidity and security at once impress the spectator. The first stone was laid, 
 23rd May, 1770, by Lord Mayor Beckford, this being his last public act. John 
 Howard objected to the plan, but was overruled. While yet unfinished, in 1780, 
 Newgate was attacked by Lord George Gordon's rioters, who broke open the doors of 
 the tenanted portion, and set 300 prisoners at large ; they then set fire to the building, 
 which was reduced to a shell : it was repaired and completed in 1782. The plan con- 
 sists of a centre (the keeper's house) ; two lodges, stamped with gloomy grandeur and 
 severity ; and two wings of yards right and left, but not suited for the classification or 
 reformation of the prisoners. The faqades are 297 feet and 115 feet long, and are 
 externally a good specimen of prison architecture. The outer walls are three feet 
 thick. Early in the present century nearly 800 prisoners were confined here at one 
 time, when a contagious fever raged. In 1808, Sheriff Phillips states, the women in 
 Newgate usually numbered from 100 to 130 ; and each had only 18 inches breadth 
 of sleeping-room, packed like slaves in the hold of a slave-ship ! In this shrievalty, the 
 cells were first ordered to be whitewashed twice a year. Mrs. Fry describes the women 
 as " swearing, gaming, fighting, singing, dancing, drinking, and dressing up in men's 
 clothes;" and in 1838, gambling, card-playing, and draughts were common among the 
 male prisoners. The chapel has galleries for the male and female prisoners : below, 
 and in the centre of the floor, is placed a chair for the condemned culprit ; but the 
 public are no longer admitted to hear the " condemned sermons" on Sundays before 
 executions : the criminal's coffin was also placed at his feet during the service ! For- 
 merly sixty persons have been seen on one Sunday in " the condemned pew," the wood- 
 work of which was cut with the name of many a hardened wretch. Here the Rev. 
 W. Dodd, D.D., preached his own funeral sermon from Acts xv. 23, on Friday, June 6, 
 1777, before he was hanged for forgery. The custom practised for many years in 
 Newgate of having a small portion of scripture read daily and explained, for the pri- 
 soners to meditate upon, was always attended with good results, but since the prisoners 
 have been kept separately the influence of it has been far greater. 
 
 In the lower room, on the south side of the prison, died Lord George Gordon, of 
 the gaol distemper, after several years' imprisonment, for libelling the Queen of France. 
 The culprit in the furthest cell on the ground-floor is within a yard of the busy 
 passers-by in the street. In the hall is a collection of ropes ; also casts taken from the 
 beads of the principal criminals who have been executed in the front of the prison. 
 
 The kitchen was formerly the hall in which debtors were received : it opens by " the 
 Debtors' Door," through which criminals pass to the scaffold in the street, a passage 
 being made through the kitchen by black curtains. The place of execution was changed 
 to this spot in December, 1783, at the suggestion of John Howard .
 
 PRISONS. 699 
 
 Within the walls is a cemetery, where, since 1820, have been buried the bodies of executed criminals : 
 the first deposited there were Thistlewood and the other Cato-street conspirators. The bodies are 
 buried, without service, at eight in the evening of the day of their execution, and at each grave is a tali 
 stone with the rudely-inscribed name. 
 
 The Press-yard, between Newgate and the Old Bailey Courts, is described at page 
 556. It was formerly customary for the Lord Mayor and Sheriffs, when proceeding 
 to proclaim Bartholomew Fair, on Sept. 2, to stop at Newgate, and drink " a cool 
 tankard" to the health of the Governor of Newgate ; but this practice was discontinued 
 in the second mayoralty of Alderman Matthew Wood in 1821. Two watchmen are 
 stationed on the roof of the prison during the night. 
 
 One of the last persons confined in Newgate for a political offence was Mr. Hobhouse (now Lord 
 Broughton), for publishing his pamphlet, The Trifling Mistake; when Lord Byron's prediction, that 
 Hobhouse " having foamed himself into a reformer, would subside into Newgate," literally came to 
 pass: and great was the enthusiasm of the people in the street at seeing Mr. Hobhouse's hat above the 
 prison parapet, as he walked upon the roof for exercise ! 
 
 The cost of maintaining the prisoners in Newgate is 372. a head annually. The old 
 associated system is pursued here ; the silent system at Millbank, in Coldbath-fields, 
 and Tothill-fields ; and the separate system at Pentonville, Millbank, and the House of 
 Detention ; yet Newgate has the advantage, as seven out of eight of its prisoners never 
 return to it. Nevertheless, says an official authority : 
 
 " Newgate prison is a complete quarry of stone, without any order or possibility of order in it. There 
 are a vast number of rooms in it, over which there is no inspection whatever ; and nothing as a prison 
 can remedy it. It has a most imposing exterior, which is perhaps its greatest use as a deterrer from 
 crime, and the worst possible interior." Captain WUliami, Prison! Inspector. 
 
 The interior of the prison has been reconstructed upon the cellular system, similar to that of the 
 City Prison, Holloway. The front portion of Newgate was completed in 1858. In the middle is a large 
 central corridor that occupies the entire length of the structure. On each side of it are four galleries, 
 which communicate with the cells of the prisoners There are no fireplaces in the cells, but warming 
 and ventilation is provided for by the admission of fresh air from an altitude of 40 feet, conveyed down- 
 wards, and which, passing through a tunnel under the building, comes in contact with a series of pipes 
 heated by steam. This heated air then passes through flues that have an area of 60 inches, and are 
 inserted in the middle of the walls, one flue passing to each cell, on the opposite side of which is a large 
 chamber common to all, by which the air is conveyed to a ventilating shall, that is highly rarified by 
 coils of steam-pipes that generate the circulation. For the purposes of warming and ventilation, two 
 steam boilers have been provided, each 18 feet long by 5 feet 6 inches diameter. The basement of the 
 structure contains the reception and punishment cells, bath-rooms, boiler-house, and stores. The 
 building is so isolated all round that if a prisoner, in his attempt to escape, even gained the roof, he 
 could not possibly escape without running the risk of losing his life. The greatest improvements that 
 appear to have been effected by the system adopted in the new building, are separating the pri- 
 soners, affording adequate accommodation for the officers in charge of the inmates, and the provision of 
 airiug-yards to admit of external exercise. 
 
 NEW PBISON was erected towards the close of the seventeenth century, south of 
 Clerkenwell Bridewell, intended " as an ease for Newgate," for such as were charged 
 with misdemeanours. Jack Sheppard was committed here, with Edgeworth Bess, on a 
 charge of felony, when they marvellously escaped. In 1774-5, the New Prison was 
 rebuilt : on the rusticated stone gate was sculptured a large head expressive of criminal 
 despair and anguish, chains with handcuffs, fetters, &c. In Howard's time, 1776, there 
 were 83 felons confined here, with the county allowance of a penny-loaf a day, and each 
 new comer had to pay 1*. 4d. for " garnish." Near the outer gate was a trap, whence 
 the prisoners were supplied with liquors at a wicket made for the purpose in the wall. 
 In the Riots of 1780, the rioters with pickaxes broke open the gates and let the pri- 
 soners out. In 1812, the prisoners here were not even provided with straw, but slept 
 in their rugs on the boarded floor, and the county allowance was but one pound of 
 bread a day. In 1818, this prison was almost entirely rebuilt on a more extensive 
 plan, and cost upwards of 35,0002. to provide for 240 prisoners in separate cells. In 
 1845 the prison was taken down, and upon its site was built the House of Deten- 
 tion for the reception of prisoners before trial, the accused only : the first built upon 
 that plan, modified from the separate system at Pentonville ; there are 286 cells. 
 Here are shown Jack Sheppard's fetters, double the usual weight ; and the boundary- 
 wall of New Prison remains. 
 
 PENTOITVILLE PRISON, in the road from the foot of Pentonville-hill to Holloway, and 
 over against Barnsbury, was commenced April 10, 1840, during the administration of 
 Lord John Russell, and completed in 1842, at a cost of nearly 100,0002., upon the plan 
 of Lieut.-Col. Jebb, R.E. The area within the lofty walls is 6 J acres, besides a cur-
 
 700 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 tain-wall, with massive posterns in front, where is a frowning entrance-gateway, its 
 arched head filled with portcullis-work, and not altogether unpicturesque ; from 
 the main huilding rises a lofty Italian clock-tower. From the inspection or central hall 
 radiate five wings or galleries, on the sides of four of which are the cells, in three 
 stories. 
 
 Each cell is 13J feet long by 7$ feet broad, and 9 feet high : it has an iron water-closet, pail, and wash- 
 basin supplied with water; a three-legged stool, table, and shaded gas-burner, and a slung hammock, 
 with mattress and blankets ; in the door is an eyelet hole, that the officer may inspect from outside j 
 and the meals are conveyed through a spring trap-door. 
 
 The heating is from stoves in the basement ; and the ventilation is by an immense 
 shaft from the roof of each wing. The chapel is fitted up with separate stalls or 
 sittings for the prisoners, of whom the officers have the entire surveillance. The organ 
 is by Gray. The exercising-yards, between and in front of the wings, are radiated, 
 so that an officer may watch the prisoners, each in a walled yard. The discipline is 
 the separate system and the silent system modified ; and here were formerly sent con- 
 victs for probation, prior to transportation to the penal colonies, the plan being an 
 adaptation from the Philadelphian system. Each cell cost 180Z. ; victualling and 
 management nearly 36/. a head; and the prisoners' labour is unproductive. The 
 building was first named " the Model Prison," as the plan was proposed for the several 
 gaols in the kingdom ; but, from its partial success, the name has been changed to the 
 Pentonville Prison, although it is in the parish of Islington. The prison has been a 
 costly experiment, and was planned so as to be easily altered in case of failure. A set of 
 views of the Model Prison appeared in the Illustrated London News, 1843. 
 
 POULTRY COMPTEE is described at page 628. 
 
 QUEEN'S PBISON, Southwark, formerly the King's Bench and Queen's Bench, was 
 situated here in the reign of Richard II., when the Kentish Rebels, under Wat Tyler, 
 " brake down the houses of the Marshalsey and King's Bench, in Southwarke." 
 (Stotv.) To this prison the Prince of Wales, afterwards Henry V., was committed by 
 Chief Justice Gascoigne, for endeavouring to rescue a convicted prisoner, one of his 
 personal attendants (Stow's Chronicle) ; and the room in which he was confined was 
 known as the Prince of Wales's Chamber down to the time of Oldys. In 1579 the 
 prisoners daily dined and supped in a little low parlour adjoining the street. In this 
 year, through " the sickness of the house," the prisoners petitioned the Queen's Privy 
 Council for the enlargement of the prison and the erection of a chapel. During the 
 Commonwealth it was called the Upper Bench Prison. Rushworth, author of the 
 Historical Collections, was confined here for six years; and Baxter, the Nonconformist, 
 was imprisoned here eighteen months, under a sentence passed by the infamous 
 Judge Jeffreys. The original King's Bench was built on the east side of the High- 
 street, on the site of Layton's-buildings, adjoining the Marshalsea and White Lion 
 prisons. Defoe describes the prison-house " not near so good as the Fleet." The 
 present prison is situated at the lower end of the Borough-road : Wilkes was one of 
 the early prisoners here. 
 
 After his return to Parliament for Middlesex, in 1763, Wilkes was arrested on a writ of capias 
 utlegatum, when he was rescued by the mob as the officers were conveying him to the King's Bench 
 Prison, to which he afterwards went privately. He was still under confinement upon the meeting of 
 Parliament, when a mob assembled before the prison to convey him in triumph to the House of Com- 
 mons. A riot ensued the military fired, and killed and wounded several rioters. Judgment was then 
 pronounced on Wilkes for two libels, and he was heavily fined, and sentenced to imprisonment for the 
 two terms often and twelve months ; during which upwards of 20,0001. was raised for the payment of 
 his fines and debts, and presents of all kinds were heaped upon him plate, jewels, wine, furniture, and 
 embroidered purses of gold ! 
 
 The huilding was set on fire, and the prisoners were liberated, by the mob in the 
 Riots of 1780. (See ST. GEORGE'S FIELDS, p. 376). By the Act 5 Victoria, c. 22, the 
 Queen's Bench, Fleet, and Marshalsea were consolidated as the Queen's Prison, for 
 debtors, prisoners committed for libel, assault, courts-martial, &c., under the control 
 of the Home Secretary of State. The dietary and other expenses, 15001, a year, were 
 paid by the English and Welsh counties. 
 
 " On the propriety of styling the especial Eoyal Court of Judicature at which the sovereign 
 anciently presided in person the Court of Queen'e Bench, some hesitation may arise, determinate, 
 however, by former practice. Does the Saxon derivation of Queen extend further in strict meaning 
 than a royal consort ; and is not the Queen regnant de facto King, as exercising the kingly office ?" 
 A. J. K., Gentleman's Magazine, June, 1839
 
 PRISONS. 701 
 
 " All that is squalid and miserable might now be summed up in the one word Poet. That word 
 denoted a creature dressed like a scare-crow, familiar with compters and spon^ing-houses, and per- 
 fectly qualified to decide on the comparative merits of the Common Side in the King's Bench Prison, 
 and of Mount Scoundrel in the Fleet." Edinburgh Review, No. 107 ; Macaulay on Croker's Be/swell. 
 
 The prison is inclosed by a wall 35 feet high, surmounted by chevaux-de-frise ; it 
 contains 224 rooms and a chapel. The wall is well adapted for rackets, once much 
 played here. Defoe said, " to a man who had money, the Bench was only the name 
 of a prison ;" but the classification of the prisoners abated its licence and riotous living. 
 
 In 1820 was published a humorous volume in verse, entitled Sketches of St. George's 
 Fields. By Giorgione di Castelchiuso. The author portrays the characters and inci- 
 dents of the King's Bench at the above period in some 170 pages ; and in his Preface 
 humorously describes the Bench as " a certain spring of great repute," and compares 
 temporary imprisonment here to drinking the waters (? of oblivion). " I was only," 
 he says, " required to drink for some time at the very spring of a certain fountain 
 in St. George's-fields, over which a pump is placed, and by which a vast casino is built, 
 capable of containing many hundreds of patients, and surrounded by a lofty wall. 
 These waters are in infinitely greater repute than those of Aix, of Pyrmont, or 
 Bareges; and I have in one morning met with inhabitants of remotely-distant 
 countries gathered together before this famous spring." " It was during the time in 
 which I partook of the salubrious potations of that spring, which, for I know not what 
 reason, is called Number Sixteen " the number of the staircase in the prison. 
 
 Remarkable persons confined in the King's Bench. Robert Recorde, physician, 
 " the first useful English writer," his family Welsh, and he himself a Fellow of All 
 Souls' College, Oxford, in 1531, died in 1558, in the King's Bench, where he was 
 confined for debt : some have said he was physician to Edward VI. and Mary. 
 
 Sir William Reresby, Bart., son and heir of the celebrated author, Le Neve states, 
 in his MSS. preserved in the Heralds' College, became a tapster in the King's Bench 
 Prison, and was tried and imprisoned for cheating in 1711. He was addicted to the 
 fights of game-cocks, and the fine estate of Dennaby is said to have been staked and 
 lost by Sir William on a single main. (Burke's Anecdotes of the Aristocracy, 2nd S.) 
 
 The original prison was in that part of the Borough where was held Southward 
 Fair ; for we read of Joe Miller mourning his departed master, Dogget, at the Angel 
 Tavern, which then stood next door to the King's Bench; and among the Burney play- 
 bills for the year 1722, is this newspaper cutting : " Miller is not with Pinkethman, 
 but by himself ! At the Angel Tavern, next door to the King's Bench, who acts a new 
 droll called the Faithful Couple ; or, the Royal Shepherdess." ( W. H. Wills) 
 
 Chatterton was here in 1770 : he writes : " A gentleman, who knows me at the 
 Chapter as an author, would have introduced me as a companion to the young Duke of 
 Northumberland, in his intended general tour. But alas ! I spoke no language but 
 my own. King's Bench for the present, May 14, 1770." (Dix, p. 267.) 
 
 Colonel Hanger, the youngest son of Gabriel, first Lord Coleraine, was by turns a 
 successful gamester, a prisoner in the King's Bench, a gallant soldier in King George's 
 army, fighting against the Americans, and a favourite guest at the Prince of Wales's 
 table, at Carlton House. 
 
 The amiable Valentine Morris, when Governor of the Isle of St. Vincent, and the 
 colony fell into the hands of the French, was refused reimbursement by the British 
 Government : thus sinned against, he was thrown into the King's Bench Prison by his 
 creditors, on his return to England ; and during the space of seven years, endured all 
 the hardships of extreme poverty. Thus reduced, bis wife, who was niece to Lord 
 Peterborough, and who sold her clothes to purchase bread for her husband, became 
 insane. Morris was at length released, after long years of suffering. 
 
 George Morland, the painter, was long in the Bench and the Rules, and usually 
 spent his evenings at a tavern in the latter ; there it was that he astounded an old 
 gentleman by telling him he knew what would hang him, and then produced a rope. 
 
 Jethro Tull, " the father or the drill and horse-hoeing husbandry," died in the 
 Bench Prison, where he had been thrown by some merciless creditor. 
 
 Lord Cochrane was imprisoned here in 1815, for his Stock Exchange affair; he 
 escaped, and went immediately to the House of Commons, whence the Marshal of the 
 King's Bench conducted him back to prison.
 
 702 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Henry Constantine Jennings, of Shiplake, Oxon, descended from the Nevils, and who 
 reckoned the celebrated Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, among his progenitors, is 
 supposed to have died in the King's Bench, about 1818 ; his inveterate love of the fine 
 arts was, no doubt, the cause of it. In 1815 he was living in Lindsey-row, Chelsea; 
 and in or about the same time he preferred a claim to an abeyant peerage. 
 
 About the year 1820, one Winch, a printer's joiner, while confined here for debt, 
 constructed the working model of a printing machine, which resembled a mangle. 
 
 In 1821, Messrs. Weaver, Arrowsmith, and Shackell, proprietors of the John Bull 
 newspaper, were heavily fined, and imprisoned here nine months, for a libel upon the 
 memory of Lady Caroline Wrottesley. 
 
 William Hone, while writing his Every-day Book, was arrested by a creditor, and 
 thrown into the King's Bench. Here he remained for about three years, during which 
 time he finished his Every-day Book, in two volumes ; and began and finished his 
 Table-book and Year-book, two volumes. These three works will probably preserve the 
 name of the compiler after everything else that he did shall be forgotten. 
 
 Dr. Mackay, who had lost 40,OOOZ. which he had amassed in Mexico by a long life 
 of labour on the Stock Exchange, was found by Haydon in the King's Bench in 
 1827, planning steam -coaches, and to set off for Mexico as soon as he was free. 
 
 A friend finding a poor author in the Queen's Bench for the third time, and in good 
 spirits, said, " Why, you must like it." So of Haydon to what humorous account 
 he turned his difficulties. In 1834 he notes : " Directly after the Duke's (Wellington) 
 letter came with its enclosed cheque, an execution was put in for the taxes. I made 
 the man sit for Cassandra's hand, and put on a Persian bracelet. When the broker 
 came for his money, he burst out a laughing. There was the fellow, an old soldier, 
 pointing in the attitude of Cassandra upright and steady, as if on guard. Lazarus's 
 head was painted just after an arrest : Eucles finished from a man in possession ; the 
 beautiful face in Xenophon in the afternoon, after a morning spent in begging mercy 
 of lawyers ; and now Cassandra's head was finished in agony not to be described, and 
 her hand completed from a broker's man." Haydon painted his " Mock Election " and 
 " Chairing Members " from a burlesque election in the prison when he was confined 
 there; and thence he petitioned Government, and trumpeted his own distresses. 
 The best account of the King's Bench of our time will be found in Haydon's Auto- 
 liography ; and its motley life is the staple of three volumes of Scenes and Stories of 
 a Clergyman in Debt, written by F. W. N. Bayley. 
 
 In September, 1860, Sir Francis Desanges, who had been Sheriff of London and 
 Middlesex in 1818, and also Sheriff of Oxfordshire, expired in the Queen's Prison, of 
 which he had been an inmate upwards of four years, at the suit of a solicitor ; he was 
 V5 years old, and had long bitterly complained of his imprisonment. 
 
 The Mules (privileges for prisoners to live within three miles round the Prison, and 
 to go out on " day rules ") are said to have been first granted in time of plague. For 
 these Rules large sums were paid to the Marshal, who, in 1813, received 2823/1. from 
 the rules and " liberty tickets," and 872Z. from the sale of beer ! These malversations 
 were, however, abolished. KitSmart, the translator of Horace, died within theRules; here 
 Smollett wrote his Sir Launcelot Greaves. Smollett has minutely described the King's 
 Bench Prison in his Roderick Random, as quarters which Hatchway and Tom Pipes 
 coveted earnestly. Shadwell, in his comedy of Epsom Wells, 1676, says the Rules 
 extend to the East Indies ; which Lord Ellenborough quoted when he was applied to 
 to extend the Rules. 
 
 Public Advertiser, Oct. 4, 1764: " A gentleman, a prisoner in the Eules of the King's Bench, a branch 
 of the family of the Hydes, Earls of Clarendon and Rochester, has a most remarkable coffin by him, 
 against his interment. It was made out of a fine solid oak which grew on his estate in Kent, and 
 hollowed out with a chisel. The said gentleman often lies down and sleeps in his coffin, with the 
 greatest composure and serenity." Oct. 6 it was added: the coffin" weighs 600 Ibs., and was not long 
 since filled with punch, when it held 41 gallons 2 quarts \\ pint." 
 
 John Palmer, the actor, was living within the Rules of the King's Bench when he 
 was committed to the Surrey Gaol under the " Rogue and Vagrant Act," for illegal 
 performances at the Royal Circus, in 1789. Palmer's engagement at this theatre (of 
 which he was acting-manager, at a weekly salary of 201.) led to the abridgment by
 
 PRISONS. 703 
 
 Lord Chief Justice Kenyon, of the general privileges which debtors had possessed in 
 Surrey, by excluding public-houses and places of amusement from the Rules. 
 
 William Combe was confined here when he received Ilowlandson's drawings, upon 
 which Combe wrote Dr. Syntax. He lived a reckless life, by turns in the King's 
 Bench Prison and the Rules, the limits of which do not appear to have been to him 
 much punishment. Horace Smith, who knew Combe, refers to the strange adventures 
 and the freaks of fortune of which he had been a participator and a victim : " a ready 
 writer of all-work for the booksellers, he passed all the latter portion of his time 
 within the Rules, to which suburban retreat the present writer was occasionally invited, 
 and never left without admiring his various acquirements, and the philosophical 
 equanimity with which he endured his reverses." We remember him in the Rules, in 
 St. George's-place, where we learnt that he had written a memoir of his chequered life. 
 Campbell, in his Life of Mrs. Siddons, states that Combe lived nearly 20 years in the 
 King's Bench, which is not correct. 
 
 Theodore Hook, in April, 1824, was removed from a spunging house in Shire-lane, 
 to the Rules (Temple-place), where he worked hard, in addition to the editorship of 
 the John Bull, in founding his most profitable fame. 
 
 The Zing's Bench Gazette, and other papers published from time to time, have portrayed the 
 recreant life of the prisoners. When Abbot Lord Tenterden was the Lord Chief Justice, the King's 
 Bench was nicknamed "Abbot's Priory," and " Tenterden Priory." A Bolter is one who, having the 
 privilege of a day rule, runs off and leaves his bondsmen, or the marshal, to pay his debt; or who 
 decamps from the Rules. The Brace Tavern was originally kept by two brothers named Partridge, from 
 whence it obtained its punning name, they being a brace of partridges. The delicate address of the 
 Bench was 65, Belvedere-place ; as that of the Fleet Prison was No. 9, Fleet-market. 
 
 Latterly, the Prison was governed by Orders appointed by one of the Secretaries of 
 State ; the Rules were abolished, and the prisoners classified, which changes broke up 
 the licentious life of the place. It is now used as a military prison. 
 
 About the year 1843, the case of a Mr. Miller, who had been imprisoned 47 years for a debt which it is 
 doubtful if he ever owed, and who still remained in custody in the Queen's Bench, excited great sym- 
 pathy. A subscription was made to place in a position above penury this poor man, who had reached 
 nig 77th year, and who, without some such assistance, would, by the operation of the new Bank- 
 ruptcy Act, have been thrown penniless on the world. 
 
 Lord Chancellor Westbury, in submitting to the House of Lords a Bill for shutting 
 up this prison, June 28, 1862, gave the following precis of its history : 
 
 " The prison, of which the present building was the representative, originated in very early times ; it 
 was probably coeval with the Court of Queen's Bench itself. At a very early period there were three 
 principal prisons in London the Queen's Bench Prison, the Fleet Prison, and the Marshalsea. The 
 Queen's Prison was appropriated to prisoners committed by the Court of Queen's Bench, the 
 Court of Exchequer, and Court of Common Pleas. The Fleet prison received prisoners from the 
 Court of Chancery ; and the Marshalsea from the Lord Steward's Court, the Palace Court, and the 
 Admiralty. The first fruits of the measure passed in 1842 for the abolition of arrest for debt on mesne 
 process was to enable Parliament to reduce the three prisons to one, the Queen's Prison being substituted 
 for the Marshalsea and the Fleet. The present Queen's Bench Prison was formed hi 1759 ; it had 
 accommodation for 300 prisoners, and occupied an area of ground between two and three acres in extent. 
 He understood that the value of this space of ground was between 200,0002. and 300,0002. The sum 
 hitherto voted by Parliament for maintaining this prison was between 30002. and 40002. a year, which 
 would be saved to the country, with the exception of the allowances and continuous payments to which 
 
 an Act of this kind would necessarily give rise Their lordships would, therefore, see that the 
 
 necessity for continuing the Queen's Bench had entirely ceased. The object of the present Bill was 
 to transfer the few prisoners therein confined to Whitecross-street Prison, where there was admirable 
 accommodation for a much greater number of persons than in all human probability would ever 
 be confined there for debt. Their lordships were probably aware that even the present number 
 of persons hi the Queen's Bench would not have been so large but for the practice which had 
 been introduced he could hardly tell why under which any debtor in any prison throughout the 
 country might be removed by writ of habeas to the Queen's Bench. Prisoners often availed themselves 
 of this privilege, because in the Queen's Bench they had amusements such as playing at ball and other 
 games, by which time was whiled away." 
 
 At an early clearance by Mr. Hazlitt, one of the Registrars in Bankruptcy, there came before 
 Mm the ease of Mr. Whittington, who very reluctantly presented himself. In the course of his 
 examination he stated that he was not in custody for debt, but for costs in an action which 
 he had brought against Mr. Roupell, M.P., for trespass on some lands. He alleged that the costs 
 were really costs in the cause, and that besides, as the proceedings were still pending, his incarceration 
 was wholly illegal. He stated that he had no debts, and that his assets amounted to over 1,000,0002. 
 in value ; that they consisted for the most part of lands in England, America, Australia, and the Falk- 
 land Islands. In the Falkland Islands he said he was possessed of 100 square miles of territory, and 
 he had spent 43,0002. in endeavouring to establish a colony there. He held also mortgages of property 
 of various kinds to the amount of 20,0002. He was adjudged a bankrupt, with instant discharge, a 
 course against which he protested. 
 
 SAVOY PEISON, the west end of the ancient Palace of the Savoy, on the south side
 
 704 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of the Strand, was used as a military prison for deserters, impressed men, convict 
 soldiers, and offenders from the Guards ; at one period their allowance was only four- 
 pence a day. The gateway bore the arms of Henry VII., and the badges of the rose, 
 fleur-de-lis, and portcullis. The premises were taken down in 1819, to form the 
 approach to Waterloo Bridge, after which deserters were imprisoned on board a vessel 
 moored off Somerset House ; but the Savoy may be said to have been first used as a 
 prison when John King of France was confined here after the battle of Poictiers, in 1356. 
 
 TOTHILL- FIELDS' BBIDEWELL was first built, in 1618, as a House of Correction. 
 
 "Over the gate is this inscription : 'Here is several sorts of work for the poor of this parish of St. 
 Margaret's, Westminster; as also correction according to law for such as will beg and live idly in this 
 City of Westminster. Anno 1655.'" Hatton, 
 
 In the reign of Queen Anne it was converted into a gaol for criminals. " Howard 
 describes it as being remarkably well managed in his day ; and holds up its enlightened 
 and careful keeper, one George Smith, as a model to other governors." (Dixon's Lon- 
 don Prisons.) Here Colonel Despard, the traitor, was imprisoned in 1803. 
 
 Upon a site adjoining was commenced, in 1830, the erection of a new prison, from 
 the design of Robert Abraham : it was first occupied in June, 1834, when the old 
 Bridewell was deserted and taken down, and the stone bearing the above inscription 
 was built into the present garden-wall. The new prison, seen from Victoria-street, 
 resembles a substantial fortress: the entrance-porch, on the Vauxhall side, is forme i 
 of massive granite blocks, iron gates, portcullis, &c. It is built on the panopticon pbn, 
 and contains a gaol for untried male prisoners, a house of correction for male convicts, 
 and a prison for women ; 8 wards, 2 schools, and 8 airing-yards ; 42 day-rooms and 
 348 sleeping-apartments ; besides 120 dark cells in the basement, all ranged round a 
 well-kept garden j while in front is the governor's house, over which is built the cbapel ; 
 these forming the keep-like mass which is seen from Pimlico and Piccadilly, and is one 
 of the finest specimens of brickwork in the metropolis. The prison will hold upwards 
 of 800 prisoners : the only labour is oakum-picking and the treadwheel. 
 
 TOWEE, THE, used as a state-prison from about 1457 to our own time, is described 
 with the general history of that palace, prison, arsenal, and fortress. 
 
 WESTMINSTER GATEHOUSE, used as a prison for State, ecclesiastical, and parlia- 
 mentary offenders, as well as for debtors and felons, is described at page 373. 
 
 WHITECEOSS-STEEET PEISON, in the street of that name, Cripplegate, is entirely a 
 Debtors' Prison : the first stone was laid by Alderman Matthew Wood, in July, 1813. 
 
 The prisoners were classified as Sheriffs' prisoners, Queen's Bench prisoners, prisoners 
 committed from the Bankruptcy Court and the County Courts. The prison is built to 
 accommodate 365 prisoners. Those who are able to sustain themselves are allowed to 
 do so, and are kept distinct from those who cannot do so : the latter class are called 
 dietary prisoners, and have the following diet : one and a half pound of bread daily, 
 cocoa twice a day, three ounces of meat (without bone) daily, half-pound of potatoes four 
 days a week, and so upon the other two days. The twenty-five dormitories have the 
 beds separated by corrugated iron partitions. In the yard adjoining the female wards 
 are two strong rooms or refractory cells, for turbulent prisoners. The doors of the 
 building are massive, and loaded with iron. The cost for the year ending September 
 29th, 1862, amounted to no less a sum than 4663?. 13s. 8d., and that for the main- 
 tenance of an average number of about seventy prisoners. Here are no private apart- 
 ments, but a modern instance of the wise saw, " Misery acquaints a man with strange 
 bedfellows." Opposite the Debtors' Door, in Whitecross-street, is the City Green- 
 yard, established in 1771 : here is kept the Lord Mayor's State-Coach. 
 
 WOOD-STEEET (Cheapside) COMPTEE was first established in 1555, when the pri- 
 soners were removed here from Bread-street Compter. The first Wood-street Compter 
 was burnt down in the Great Fire, but was rebuilt : its hall was hung with the story of 
 the Prodigal Son ; the prisoners were removed from here to Giltspur-street in 1791. 
 
 QUEENHITHE, 
 
 UPPER Thames-street, was originally the TiitTie (wharf or landing-place) of Edred 
 the Saxon, and thence called Edred's-hithe; but falling into the hands of King
 
 RAILWAY TERMINI. 705 
 
 Stephen, it was given by him to Will, de Ypre, who gave it to the Convent of the 
 Holy Trinity within Aldgate : however, it came again to the Crown, and it is said to 
 have been given by King John to his mother, Eleanor, queen of Henry II. ; whence it 
 was called Ripa RegiruB, the queen's bank, or queen's hithe, it being a portion of her 
 majesty's dowry. It is described by Stow as " the very chief and principal Watergate 
 of this city," " equal with, and of old time far exceeding, Belinsgate." In the reign 
 of Henry III., ships and boats laden with corn and fish for sale were compelled to pass 
 beyond London Bridge, " to the Queen's-hithe only," a drawbridge being pulled up to 
 admit the passage of large vessels. In 1463, the market at Queen-hithe was " hindered 
 by reason of the slackness of drawing up London Bridge." Stow enumerates the cus- 
 toms and dues exacted from the ships and boats, and specifies " salt, wheat, rye, or other 
 corn, from beyond the seas; or other grains, garlic, onions, herrings, sprats, eels, whit- 
 ing, plaice, cod, mackerel, &c. :" but corn was the principal trade, whence the quay 
 was sometimes called Cornhithe. Stow describes here a corn-mill placed between two 
 barges or lighters, which " ground corn, as water-mills in other places, to the wonder 
 of many that had not seen the like." The charge of Queenbithe was subsequently 
 delivered to the sheriffs ; but Fabyan states, that in his time it was not worth above 
 twenty marks a year. Its trade in fish must, however, have been considerable when 
 Old Fish-street northward was the great fish-market of London, before Billingsgate, in 
 1699, became " a free and open market." Beaumont and Fletcher speak of " a Queen- 
 hithe cold ;" and the locality is often mentioned by our old dramatists. It is now 
 frequented by West-country barges laden with corn and flour ; the adjoining ware- 
 houses, with high-pitched gables, were built long since for stowage of corn ; and the 
 opposite church of St. Michael, with its vane in the form of a ship, the hull of which 
 will contain a bushel of grain, is emblematic of the olden traffic in corn at the Hithe. 
 
 Tom Hill was originally a drysalter at Queenhithe ; and here he assembled a fine 
 library, described by Southey as one of the most copious collections of English poetry 
 in existence : it was valued at 60001., when, through a ruinous speculation in indigo, 
 Hill retired upon the remains of his property to the Adelphi. (Seep. 1.) Hill was 
 the patron of the almost friendless poets, Bloomfield and Kirke White. 
 
 At Queenhithe, No. 17, lived Alderman Venables, lord mayor 1826-7; at Nos. 
 20-21, Alderman Hooper, lord mayor 1847-8 ; and at No. 23, Alderman Rose, lord 
 mayor 1863-4. 
 
 Queenhithe gives name to the ward, wherein were seven churches in Stow's time. 
 Westward is Broken Wharf, " so called of being broken and fallen down into the 
 Thames." Here was the mansion of the Bigods and Mowbrays, Earls and Dukes of 
 Norfolk; sold in 1540 to Sir Richard Gresham, father of Sir Thomas Gresham. 
 Within the gate of this house was built, in 1594-5, an engine, by Bevis Bulmer, for 
 supplying the middle and west of the City with Thames water. 
 
 In 1809 or 1810 was found in the bed of the river, opposite Queenhithe, a massive 
 silver seal, with a motto denoting it to have been the official seal of the port of London, 
 temp. Edward I. It is engraved with Laing's Plan of the Custom House. 
 
 RAILWAY TERMINI. 
 
 T OXDON is girdled with Railways, and has an inner and outer circle ; but few of the 
 " Termini present grand or noticeable features. The Slackwall line has a terminus 
 of elegant design, by W. Tite, F.R.S., at Brunswick Wharf. The Great Northern 
 Terminus, King's Cross, occupies 45 acres of land. For the site of the Passenger 
 Station, the Small-pox Hospital and Fever Hospital were cleared away. The front 
 towards St. Pancras-road has two main arches, each 71 feet span, separated by a clock- 
 tower 120 feet high ; the clock has dials nine feet in diameter, and the principal bell 
 weighs 29 cwt. The Great Western Terminus, at Paddington, has few artistic 
 features ; the handsome Hotel adjoining is described at p. 441. The North- Western 
 Terminus, at Euston-square, has a propylceum, or architectural gateway, pure Grecian 
 Doric : its length exceeds 300 feet ; its cost was 35,OOOZ. ; and it contains 80,000 cubic 
 feet of Bramley Fall stone. The columns are higher than those of any other building 
 in London, and measxire 44 feet 2 inches, and 8 feet 6 inches diameter at the base, or 
 
 z z
 
 706 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 only 3 feet 1 inch less than that of the York column. The height, to the summit of 
 the acroterium, is 72 feet j a winding staircase in one angle leads to an apartment 
 within the roof, used as the Company's printing-office ; the rich bronze gates are by 
 Bramah. 
 
 This propylseum is unprecedented in our modern Greek architecture, and " exhibits itself to most 
 advantage when viewed obliquely, so as to show its line of roof and depth, especially as the cornice is of 
 unusually bold and new design, being not only ornamented with projecting lion-heads, but crowned by 
 a series of deep antefixse ; while, when beheld from a greater distance, the large stone slabs are also 
 seen that cover the roof." Companion to the Almanack, 1839. 
 
 The paved platforms within the gateway contain nearly 16,000 superficial feet of 
 Yorkshire stone, some of the stones 70 to 80 square feet each ; and each shaft of the 
 granite Doric colonnade is a single stone. The Great Hall, designed by P. C. Hard- 
 wick, has the ceiling panelled, deeply recessed, and enriched, and is connected with the 
 walls by large ornamented consoles. The walls are splashed as granite ; and the Ionic 
 columns are painted like red granite, with white caps and bases. The sculpture, by 
 John Thomas, are a group, Britannia supported by Science and Industry ; and beneath 
 the ceiling, 8 panels, in alto-relievo, symbolic figures of London, Birmingham, Man- 
 chester, Chester, Northampton, Carlisle, Lancaster, and Liverpool. The hall is warmed 
 by some miles of hot-water pipes, on Perkins's system. Here was placed, April 10, 
 1854, Baily's colossal marble statue of George Stephenson, the originator of the rail- 
 way system : this statue was purchased by the subscriptions of 3150 working-men, at 
 2s. ; and 178 private friends, at 14. each.* The South-Eastern station, London Bridge, 
 is cf great extent, and provides for the Greenwich Railway, opened December 14, 1836, 
 the first completed line from the metropolis. The large Hotel is described at p. 442. 
 The South-Western, Waterloo- road, is noticed at p. 501. The Charing Cross line from 
 London Bridge, through Southwark, has a station at Cannon-street, terminus at 
 Charing Cross, and two stupendous bridges across the Thames. The Hotels are 
 described at pp. 442-443. The Metropolitan, beneath the crowded streets of 
 London, .Fowler, engineer-in-chief, extends from Paddington to Finsbury, 4^ miles; 
 the difficulties of construction through a labyrinth of sewers, gas and water mains, 
 churches to be avoided, and houses left secure proved an herculean labour ; but 
 one of the greatest difficulties was to construct an engine of great power and speed, 
 capable of consuming its own smoke, and to give off no steam. This Mr. Fowler sur- 
 mounted by inventing an engine which, in the open air, works like a common locomo- 
 tive, but when in the tunnel, consumes its own smoke, or rather makes no smoke, and 
 by condensing its own steam, gives off not a particle of vapour. It is proposed, by 
 extensions at either end of the underground line, and by a new line, to be called the 
 " Metropolitan District Railway," to complete what will form pretty nearly an inner 
 circle, and will also throw out branches to connect itself with the suburban systems 
 north and south of the Thames ; so that when the entire scheme is in working order 
 we shall have something like a combination of two circles the inner and the outer as 
 a thorough railway system for the metropolis. Of the progress of the works a specimen is 
 afforded in 2000 men, 200 horses, and 58 engines many months working j and whole 
 terraces, streets, and squares in south-west London being tunnelled under almost without 
 the knowledge of the inhabitants. The London, Chatham, and Dover extension line 
 has a massive bridge at Blackfriars, and Byzantine terminus at Ludgate. The North- 
 London line has few noticeable works. 
 
 The Pneumatic Railway, Rammell, engineer, is an extension of the Atmospheric 
 principle : it had already been tested in a Despatch tube, through which parcels wsre 
 propelled on ledges or rails, in cars, on the signal being given, by the exhaustion and 
 pressure of the air in the tube by a high-pressure engine ; this motive power, in the 
 Pneumatic Railway, being applied to passengers in an enlarged tube. The propulsion 
 is likened to the action of a pea-shooter, the train to the pea, which is driven along in 
 one direction by a blast of air, and drawn back again in the opposite direction by the 
 exhaustion of the air in front of it j the motion being modified by mechanical arrange- 
 ments. The air is exhausted from near one end of the tube by means of an apparatus, 
 
 * More than 2000 parcels per day are booked at the North- Western Eailway Station. In Christmas 
 week, 5000 barrels of oysters have been sent off within twenty-four hours, each barrel containing 10O 
 oysters =half a million. Lardner's Railway Economy, p. 130.
 
 EANELAGH. 707 
 
 from which the air is discharged by centrifugal force. The contrivance may be com- 
 pared to an ordinary exhausting fan. The rails are cast iu the bottom of the tubes ; a 
 few strips of vulcanized India-rubber screwed round the fore-end of the carriage consti- 
 tute the piston, leaving three-eighths of an inch clear between the exterior of the 
 piston and interior of the tube; there is no friction, and the leakage of air does 
 not interfere with the speed of transit. The Whitehall and Waterloo Pneumatic 
 Railway will extend from the station in Scotland-yard, carried in brickwork beneath the 
 tunnel of the Underground District Railway, and then under the Low Level Sewer to 
 the northern abutment, from which iron tubes of sixteen feet diameter are to be laid 
 on the clay beneath the Thames. 
 
 We shall not be expected to detail the various lines now in course of construction, or 
 projected, in and around the metropolis ; to attempt this might lead us to record the 
 construction of works never to be executed, and anticipations never to be realized. The 
 number of metropolitan lines and branches proposed in 1865 was 148, and the extent of 
 the whole in miles about 370. " A New Map of Metropolitan Railways" is, from time 
 to time, published by Stanford, Charing Cross. 
 
 Sir Joseph Paxton proposed a magnificent railway extension, for the better communication between 
 different parts of the metropolis, so as to avoid all underground work. For this purpose he designed 
 an immense boulevard, or girdle railway, to run in an extended crystal palace of about 11$ miles ; to be 
 built of iron, and roofed with glass, 72 feet broad and 180 feet high. On either side were to be erected 
 houses and shops, with an ordinary roadway between them ; at the rear of these there were to be two 
 lines of railway, equal to eight sets of rails. The railways were to be constructed on the top of a raised 
 corridor, at the average height of 26 feet, so as to enable the line to pass over, without obstruction, the 
 present streets and thoroughfares ; and the premises under to be used as shops or tenements, were to 
 have double walls, with a current of air passing between them, which it was said would prevent annoy- 
 ance from the vibration and noise of the railway. The girdle was to commence at the Royal Exchange, 
 to cross Cheapside opposite the Old Jewry ; then to cross the river by a bridge of sufficient dimensions 
 to have houses built upon it, at Queenhithe; the road then to pass through the Borough, and next a 
 portion of Lambeth to the South- Western Railway ; from which a loop was to be constructed, to pass 
 over a bridge to be built near Hungerford, to terminate at the Regent-circus. The main line to cross 
 the South- Western Railway, carried direct over a bridge at Westminster, and thence, by Victoria- 
 street, through Belgravia, Brompton, Gore House, Kensington Gardens, Netting Hill, to the Great 
 Western station at Paddington. The line then to be carried on the north side to the London and North- 
 Western and the Great Northern Railways ; and then through Islington to the starting-point at the 
 Royal Exchange. The railways were to be worked on the atmospheric principle. The total cost was 
 set down at about 34,000,OOOZ., to be provided by a Government guarantee, at 4 per cent. Among the 
 receipts, the houses upon the three bridges, it was computed, would let each at 6001. a year; and this, 
 with other revenues, it was estimated, would leave a profit of nearly 400,OOW. The drawings of this 
 great project were beautifully executed; but the scheme was altogether too gigantic and costly for 
 execution. 
 
 EANELAGH, 
 
 A PUBLIC garden, opened in 1742, on the site of the gardens of Ranelagh House, 
 eastward of Chelsea Hospital, was originally projected by Lacy, the patentee of 
 Drury-laue Theatre, as a sort of winter Vauxhall. The Rotunda, 185 feet in diameter, 
 had a Doric portico, an arcade, and gallery outside. There was also a Venetian 
 pavilion in the centre of a lake, upon which the company were rowed in boats ; and a 
 print of 1751 shows the grounds planted with trees and allees verts. The several 
 buildings were designed by Capon, the eminent scene-painter. The interior was fitted 
 with boxes for refreshments, and in each was a painting : in the centre was an ingenious 
 heating apparatus, concealed by arches, porticoes, and niches, paintings, &c. ; and sup- 
 porting the ceiling, which was decorated with celestial figures, festoons of flowers, and 
 arabesques, and lighted by circles of chandeliers. The Rotunda was opened with a 
 public breakfast, April 5, 1742. Walpole describes the high fashion of Ranelagh : 
 "The prince, princess, duke, much nobility, and much mob besides, were there." 
 " My Lord Chesterfield is so fond of it, that he says he has ordered all his letters to be 
 directed thither." The admission was one shilling ; but the ridottos, with supper and 
 music, were one guinea. Concerts were also given here : Dr. Arne composed the music, 
 Tenducci and Mara sang ; and here were first publicly performed the compositions of the 
 Catch Club. Fireworks and a mimic Etna were next introduced ; and lastly, masque- 
 rades, described in Fielding's Amelia, and satirized in the Connoisseur, No. 66, May 1, 
 1755 ; wherein the Sunday-evening's tea-drinkings at Ranelagh being laid aside, it is 
 proposed to exhibit the story of the Fall of Man in a masquerade ! Dr. Johnson said 
 there was more of Ranelagh than of the Pantheon; or rather, indeed, the whole 
 
 z z 2
 
 708 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Rotunda appeared at once, and it was better lighted : " the coup d'ceil was the finest 
 thing he had ever seen." Boswell's Life of Johnson, vols. ii. and iii. 
 
 But the promenade of the Rotunda to the music of the orchestra and organ soon 
 declined : " There's your famous Eauelagh, that you make such a fuss about ; why 
 what a dull place is that !" (Miss Bnrney's JSvelina.) In 1802, the Installation Ball 
 of the Knights of the Bath was given here ; and the Picnic Society gave here a break- 
 fast to 2000 persons, when Garnerin ascended in his balloon. Of the Peace Fete which 
 took place here in 1803, and for which allegorical scenes were painted by Capon, 
 Bloomfield sings in homely rhyme : 
 
 " A thousand feet rustled on mats, 
 
 A carpet that once had been green ; 
 Men bow'd with their outlandish hats, 
 
 With corners so fearfully keen. 
 Fair maids, who at home, in their haste, 
 
 Had left all clothing else but a train, 
 Swept the floor clean, as slowly they paced, 
 And then walk'd round and swept it again." 
 
 Ranelagh was now deserted, and in 1804 the buildings were taken down. In 1813, the 
 foundation-walls of the Rotunda, the arches of some cellars, and the site of the 
 orchestra, could be traced : part of the ground was next included in " the Old Men's 
 Gardens" of Chelsea Hospital ; and the name is attached to the Sewers District, and 
 to a long street leading from Pimlico to the site of Ranelagh. 
 
 Ranelagh House was built about 1691, by Jones, first Earl of Ranelagh and third 
 Viscount, who was a great favourite of Charles II. The ground was granted to the 
 Earl by William III. ; and the mansion is shown in a view of the Thames-bank painted 
 by Canaletti in 1752. 
 
 In 1854, a large house built upon part of the site of Ranelagh, with some of its materials, and another 
 mansion, Clarence House, were cleared away, to form the new road from Sloane-street to the Suspension- 
 bridge and Battersea Park. 
 
 RECORDS, PUBLIC. 
 
 " rilHE Records of this country have no equal in the civilized world, in antiquity, 
 -L continuity, variety, extent, or amplitude of facts and details.* From Domesday 
 they contain the whole materials for the history of this country, civil, religious, political, 
 social, moral, or material, from the Norman Conquest to the present day. (Of the 
 decisions of the Law Courts a series is extant from the beginning of the reign of 
 Richard I.) With the Public Records are now united the State Papers and Government 
 Archives, and by their aid may be written the real history of the Courts of Common 
 Law and Equity ; the statistics of the kingdom in revenue, expenditure, population, 
 trade, commerce, or agriculture, can from the above sources be accurately investigated. 
 The Admiralty documents are important to naval history ; and others afford untouched 
 mines of information relating to the private history of families." Sir Francis Palgrave, 
 Deputy-keeper of the Records, 
 
 They include the official Records of the Courts of Common Law, of Parliament, of 
 Chancery, of the Admiralty, the Audit Office, the Registrar-General's Office, the Com- 
 missariat, the Treasury Books, the Customs' Books, the Privy Signet Office, the Welsh 
 and County Palatinate Courts, &c. These were deposited in more than sixty places, 
 until the passing of the Public Records Act, 1 & 2 Victoria, cap. 94, the great object 
 of which was the consolidation of all the Records in one depository ; which has been 
 attained by the erection of a building on the Rolls Estate, between Fetter-lane and 
 Chancery-lane. The architect is Mr. Pennethorne ; and the plan is to provide suf- 
 ficient space not merely for all the Records now in the custody of the Master of the 
 Rolls, but for all such as may be expected to accrue for fifty years to come. The 
 building consists of a north front and two wings ; the three portions to contain 228 
 rooms, 200 of which would receive nearly half a million cubic feet of Records. The front 
 faces the north : the style is late Gothic, or Tudoresque, somewhat of German character ; 
 the outer walls are supported by massive buttresses, between which are the windows, 
 which are Decorated. The materials are Kentish rag-stone, with dressings of Anstone- 
 
 * William Lambarde, the eminent lawyer and antiquary, was, in 1597, appointed Keeper of the Rolls 
 and House of Rolls, in Chancery-lane ; and in 1600, Keeper of the Records in the Tower.
 
 RECORDS, PUBLIC. 709 
 
 stone. The floors are formed with wrought-iron girders and flat brick arches, laid on 
 the top with white Suffolk tiles. The sashes and door-frames are of metal, the doors 
 of slate, the roof iron. The hall, entered from the south side of the building, has a 
 panelled ceiling, formed in zinc and emblazoned. Two windows are provided for each 
 room, which is fifteen feet high, divided by a gallery or iron floor : hence the windows 
 are unusually lofty, to light both floors, and to throw the light twenty-five feet down 
 the passages between the Records ; accordingly the front is a mass of window. As in the 
 same architect's Museum of Practical Geology, in Piccadilly, there is no entrance in the 
 principal faqade. Upon the front tower is a statue of Queen Victoria ; Durham, sculptor. 
 In the first consignment of documents to the New Repository were, among the papers 
 of the Solicitor to the Treasury, the Solicitor's proceedings against Bishop Atterbury 
 and others; with an important mass of papers respecting the rebellion of 1745-6; and 
 " very numerous documents relating to prosecutions brought by the Crown against 
 authors or publishers of pamphlets or newspapers." The charge and superintendence 
 of the Public Records is vested in the Master of the Rolls, to whose custody the accu- 
 mulating Records above twenty years old are delivered. Searches may be made at any 
 of the departments of the Record Office by payment of the fees, and extracts taken ; 
 but the Deputy-keeper is authorized to grant any literary inquirer permission to search 
 and make notes, extracts, or copies, in pencil, without payment of fees, on the Deputy- 
 keeper being satisfied that the application is for a 'bond fide literary purpose. To show 
 the value of this privilege to literary inquirers, it may be stated that in 1852 one ap- 
 plicant consulted nearly 7000 documents, principally at the Rolls Chapel, for compiling 
 the history of a single township. 
 
 To Lord Epmilly, Master of the Rolls, the nation is specially indebted for the able and efficient 
 manner in which has been carried out the recommendations of the Eecord Commission and the Par- 
 liamentary Committees of 1800 and 1836. In the latter Report the object first specified is, " to provide 
 for the better arrangement and preservation of the Records of the Kingdom." This is more fully 
 expressed in the executory clause of every Commission, which enjoins the Commissioners "to metho- 
 dize, regulate, and digest the records, rolls, instruments, books and papers in any of our public offices 
 and repositories, and to cause such of the said records, rolls, instruments, books and papers, as are 
 decayed and in danger of being destroyed, to be bound and secured." The next object is, with a view to 
 providing for " their more convenient use, to make Calendars and Indexes of any of the said records, 
 rolls, instruments, books and papers." Sir John Romilly at once directed that the Calendars of the 
 diplomatic documents, then preserved in the Record Office in the Tower of London, which had been 
 some time in hand, should be prepared for publication. He gave directions for printing the Calendars 
 of documents in the Queen's Remembrancer's Office and Augmentation Office, upon which officers had 
 also been engaged for fifteen years. This was the true beginning of his task. It was not until the 
 incorporation of the State Paper Department with the Public Record Office, in the year 1854, that the 
 Master of the Rolls was enabled to accomplish his design. He applied to the Lords of Her Majesty's 
 Treasury for assistance. He proposed that a certain number of competent persons, unconnected with 
 the office, should be employed to co-operate with the officers of the establishment in the compilation of 
 Calendars of the Diplomatic Papers, commencing with the reign of Henry VIII., the period at which 
 the modern history of Europe may be said to commence ; and to leave the portion anterior to that reign 
 in the Record Repository to be calendared by the officers of the establishment, whenever they could be 
 spared from the performance of the current business of the office. 
 
 The proposition was readily approved by the Lords Commissioners of the Treasury, and a number of 
 persons, including one lady, were appointed to the work. Every calendar which comes out has its own 
 interest, its own revelations. Every department of history and biography is enriched from day to day 
 by new discoveries. The life of this nation is being re-written for us, not at third hand, from the 
 guesses of those who knew little and invented much, but from the original vouchers of all true history. 
 These Calendars give us not only a new history of England, but the best history of England that has 
 ever been written. (Athenaeum.) In graceful recognition of these eminent services, a marble bust of the 
 Master of the Rolls has been placed by subscription in the Record Office. 
 
 The several Records have been removed from the Branch Offices to the Repository. 
 The Chapter House has been entirely cleared of the remaining portion of its contents. 
 The Records brought from it have been incorporated in the Repository with the Com- 
 mon Law and other Records to which they respectively belong. In consequence of the 
 proposed destruction of the State Paper Office to make room for the erection of 
 new Government Offices, it was found necessary to remove the Records from the State 
 Paper Branch Office into the Repository. Here, also, have been removed the Home 
 Office Papers ; and the Records of the Colonial Office have been united with the other 
 Colonial Documents already to be found in the Repository, which contained about 
 4000 volumes of Colonial Papers ; together with the Foreign Papers to the end of the 
 reign of George II. Consequently, the whole of the Home, Foreign and Colonial Papers, 
 and all other Records, Printed Books, Maps, &c., have been removed to the Repository; 
 with the exception of the Foreign Correspondence commencing with the reign of
 
 710 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 George TIL, and Ratifications of Treaties, intended to be removed to two houses in 
 Whitehall-yard. In the Record Office are some very fine examples of bookbinding ; 
 there are also several curiously wrought cases for rolls and books, and coffers, in which 
 they have been kept for centuries. Amongst the most remarkable of these is an ancient 
 iron chest, which is called of Anglo-Norman date. The strength and massiveness of 
 this piece of smithwork is remarkable : it seems as solid as a sarcophagus. In this 
 coffer, in the Chapter-house of Westminster Abbey, the famous Domesday Book of 
 William was for many centuries kept with the greatest care. 
 
 In 1860 her Majesty's Government, with the concurrence of the Master of the Rolls 
 (Lord Romilly), determined to apply the art of photozincography to the production of 
 a facsimile of the whole of the Domesday Survey, under the superintendence of Colonel 
 Sir Henry James, R.E., Director of the Ordnance Survey at Southampton, who had 
 devoted himself to the improvement of that scientific process, completed in 1863. 
 
 The Reports of the Deputy Keeper are annually made and laid before Parliament. 
 They usually include, in addition to the statement of proceedings in the Public Record 
 Office, appendices containing inventories and calendars of records made during each 
 year to which they relate, and refer to documents interesting and useful to the public 
 generally. They have been found especially valuable in assisting persons engaged in 
 genealogical, topographical, and antiquarian pursuits, and are of great practical use to 
 Government departments having papers deposited in the Public Record Office. 
 
 The Victoria Tower of the Houses of Parliament was originally intended to be used as a Record 
 repository ; but the only means of access to this tower is by a narrow winding staircase of 170 iron, 
 steps up to the first floor ; and to the eighth floor (sixty-four rooms in all) there are 266 steps, which, 
 added to the 170 from the ground to the first landing, make a total of 436 steps. There are no fire- 
 places. 
 
 EUGENT STREET, 
 
 TN length 1730 yards (30 yards less than a mile), was designed by John Nash, in 
 J- 1813, and named from his patron the Prince Regent ; although in 1766 Gwynne had 
 proposed a great street to lead nearly in the same line. It commences at Waterloo- 
 place, opposite the site of Carlton House, and proceeds northward, crossing Piccadilly, 
 by a Circus, to the County Fire-Office, designed by Abraham, with a rustic arcade, like 
 that at Somerset House. The roadway is probably the finest specimen of macadamization 
 in the metropolis. On the East side are the Junior United Service Club (see p. 254) j 
 Gallery of Illustration (p. 308) ; the Parthenon Club (p. 254). On the West are St. 
 Philip's Chapel (p. 215) ; and Club Chambers (p. 245). 
 
 At No. 5, Waterloo-place, in the collection of Thomas Walesby, in 1854, was George IV. and the Duke 
 of Wellington on the field of Waterloo, painted by B. R. Haydon ; Gore House, Kensington, with por- 
 traits of the Duke of Wellington, Lady Blessington, Count D'Orsay (the painter of the picture), &c.; 
 also, Sir Joshua Reynolds' sitters' chair, after his decease in the possession of Sir Thomas Lawrence 
 and Sir M. A. Shee". 
 
 From the County Fire-OfHce, the street trends north-west by a Quadrant, so as to 
 avoid a commonplace elbow : it exhibits Nash's genius in overcoming difficulties, for 
 by no other contrivance could this sweep of the street have been made so ornamental ; 
 its geometrical fitness can only be fully appreciated in the view from the balcony of the 
 York Column. The Quadrant had originally two Doric Colonnades, projecting the ex- 
 tent of the tbot-pavevnent; the columns of cast-iron, from the Carron Foundry, each 16 
 feet 2 inches high, exclusive of the granite plinth, supported a balustraded roof. This 
 was a most scenic piece of street architecture ; the continuous rows of columns swept 
 in charming perspective, and the effect was very picturesque. The colonnades were 
 removed in November, 1848, and a balcony was added to the principal floor. The 
 property has been much improved by this change ; but the tasteful public unwillingly 
 parted with this grand street ornamentation, which reminded them of a classic city of 
 antiquity. The 270 columns were sold at 7. 5s. and 11. 10s. each. 
 
 No. 45, the junction of Regent Circus with the Quadrant, has a superb shop-front, designed, in 
 1839, by F. Hering, in the Revival style ; with fluted Ionic columns, Italianized arches, enriched pedi- 
 ment-heads, spandrels, escocheons, cognisances, and panels ; the ornaments being of composition laid 
 upon wood. Each plate of glass in the windows, 140 inches by 82 inches, cost 160J. ; the plate-glass in 
 the facade and ulterior 10CXM. ; and the entire execution nearly 40002.
 
 ROMAN LONDON. 711 
 
 From the Quadrant the vista is very fine : the blocks or groups of houses, &c. are 
 by Nash, Soane, Cockerell, Repton, Abraham, Decimus Burton, &c. 
 
 Hast Archbishop Tenisoris Chapel, between Nos. 172 and 174, is described at 
 p. 215. Foubert's Place, between Nos. 206 and 208, is named from Monsieur or 
 Major Faubert, who, in 1681, established here a riding-academy, on premises formerly 
 the mansion of the Countess of Bristol. Evelyn, in his Diary, mentions that Faubert's 
 project was recommended by the Council of the Royal Society. 
 
 " ISth Dec. 1631. I went with Lord Cornwallia to see the young gallants do their exercise, M. 
 Faubert having newly railed in a menage, and fitted it for the academy. Here were the Duke of Nor- 
 folk and Northumberland, Lord Newburgh, and a nephew of (Duras) Earle of Faversham. The exer- 
 cises were : 1. Running at the ring ; 2. Flinging a javelin at a Moor's head ; 3. Discharging a pistol 
 at a mark; and lastly, taking up a gauntlet with the point of a sword; all these perform'd in full 
 Bpeede." 
 
 When Swallow-street was removed, the riding-school premises, then livery-stables, were 
 taken down, except one house. The Argyll Booms, built for musical entertainments, 
 at the corner of Little Argyll-street, were destroyed by fire in 1830. (See p. 22.) 
 
 West Nos. 207 and 209, the Cosmorama (see p. 308). Hanover Chapel, built 
 1823, by Cockerell (see p. 211). The line crosses Oxford-street by Regent Circus, and 
 extends thence to the tower and spire of All Souls' Church (see p. 147). The street 
 then sweeps past the Langham Hotel (see p. 442), built upon the site of the gardens and 
 houses of Sir James Langham, and part of the site of Foley House, which was bought 
 by Nash, with the grounds, for 70,0001. : hence the crookedness of Regent-street. 
 
 No. 309, Regent-street, the Polytechnic Institution, erected by Thompson in 1838, 
 and enlarged in 1848, contains a Hall of Manufactures, with machines worked by 
 steam-power, and several other apartments filled with models, &c.; Cosmorarnic Rooms; 
 and Theatres for lectures and optical exhibitions. The Diving-Sell, long the paramount 
 attraction, is of cast-iron, and weighs 3 tons ; 5 feet in height, and 4 feet 8 inches 
 in diameter at the mouth. The Bell is about one-third open at the bottom, has a seat 
 all round for the divers, and is lit by 12 openings of thick plate-glass. It is suspended 
 by a massive chain to a large swing-crane, with a powerful crab ; the chain having 
 compensation weights, and working into a well beneath. The air is supplied from two 
 powerful air-pumps, of 8-inch cylinder, conveyed by the leather hose to any depth : the 
 divers being seated in the Bell, it is moved over the water, and directly let down within 
 two feet of the bottom of the tank, and then drawn up ; the whole occupying only 
 two minutes and a half. Each person paid a fee for the descent, which produced 
 1000/. in one year. The cost of the Bell was about 400Z. 
 
 In the rear of the premises, at No. 5, Cavendish-square, then the St. George's Chess 
 Club, was played, 27th May, 1851, the Chess Tournament, by the first general meeting 
 of players from different parts of the world ; among whom were, Szen, Horwitz, 
 Kieseritzky, Ldwenthal, Staunton, and Anderssen. See the Games, with notes, by H. 
 Staunton. 
 
 ROMAN LONDON. 
 
 A LTHOUGH Londinium was in the power of Rome for more than 400 years, or 
 -x nearly one-fourth of its existence in history, the aspect of Roman London is but 
 matter of conjecture ; and tessellated pavements, incised stones, and sepulchral urns, 
 found upon its site, are but fragmentary evidences that wherever the Roman conquers 
 he inhabits. London was, however, previously a settlement of some importance, and of 
 British origin, as we read in Llyn-dun, the hill-fortress on the lake ; or Llong-dinas, 
 the city of ships, from its maritime character ; whence the Roman designation Lon- 
 dinium. It is not mentioned by Caesar, though he entered the Thames; nor was it 
 occupied as a Roman station so early as Colchester and Verulam. The Romans are 
 supposed to have possessed themselves of London in the reign of Claudius, about 105 
 years after Caesar's invasion. Londinium is first mentioned by Tacitus (Ann. xix. 33) 
 as not then dignified with the name of a colonia, but still as a place much frequented 
 by merchants, and as a great depot of merchandize. It was subsequently made a 
 colonia under the name of Augusta (Amm. Marcell. xxvii. 8). 
 
 Londinium, as we know, was a place of commercial activity before the Roman Conquest.
 
 712 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 It was the principal mart of exchange between Britain and the Continent, and received 
 for the corn, the cattle, the minerals, the slaves, and the dogs of native production, 
 every article of southern luxury for which a market was to be found among our rude 
 ancestors. The site of London was, no doubt, peculiarly advantageous for commerce. 
 It was the only great maritime port on a tidal river known to the Romans ; and while 
 it was supplied by a very fertile tract of country behind it, its position on a gentle 
 declivity, with dense forests in the rear, and a broad expanse of swamp before it, ren- 
 dered it from the first a place of considerable strength. London probably remained 
 British, or rather Cosmopolitan; while such places as Colchester, Chester, and Caerleon, 
 the stations of legions and seats of government, became merely bastard Italian. 
 
 Ptolemy the geographer, who lived in the reigns of Trajan, Hadrian, and Antoninus 
 Pius, places Londinium in the region of the Cantii, and some recent discoveries have 
 proved that the Roman city or its suburbs did actually extend over what is now known 
 as Southwark. The Itinerary of Antoninus shows that a large proportion of the British 
 routes are regulated and arranged with reference to Londinium, either as a starting- 
 point or a terminus. This city is made the central or chief station to which the main 
 military roads converge : a map of Roman Britain based on this Itinerary strikingly 
 resembles one of modern England ; so close is the analogy by which we may assign a 
 metropolitan importance to Roman London. When in the reign of Diocletian and 
 Maximian it was sacked by the Franks, it is termed by Eumenius the orator, oppidum 
 Londiniense ; and under the dominion of Carausius and Allectus it became a place of 
 mintage. " P. LON." (Pecunia Londiniensis) appears on coins of Constantino, Helena, 
 Fausta, Crispus, Constantino the Younger, and Constantius the Younger ; and in the 
 Notitia Londinium takes a place among the capitals of the provinces under the title of 
 Augusta, as the seat of the Treasury of Britain, controlled by a special officer, PrcB- 
 positus thesaurorum Augustensium in Britannia. " Vetus oppidum" says Amrnianus 
 Marcellinus, who wrote about A.D. 380, " quod Augustam posteritas appellavit." 
 
 The site of Roman London has been densely built on and inhabited, without inter- 
 ruption, from the first century of our era to the present time. It has been buried 
 beneath the foundations of the modern city, or rather beneath the ruins of a city several 
 times destroyed and as often rebuilt ; and it is only at rare intervals that the excavators 
 of drains and other subterranean works strike down upon the venerable remains of the 
 earliest occupation. The Romans found the place a narrow strip of firm ground lying 
 between the great fen (Moorfields) almost parallel to the river. At right angles to 
 both ran the Walbrook, and on the east the Langbourne ; habitations ranged closely 
 from Finsbury to Dowgate, whence to the Tower site, villas studded the bank of the 
 Thames. The finding of sepulchral remains outside these natural boundaries proves the 
 Romans to have there had their burial-grounds, as it was their custom always to inter 
 their dead without their cities. That Southwark, on the opposite bank of the Thames, 
 was also a Roman settlement, is proved by relics of the reign of Nero ; outside which 
 are likewise evidences of Roman interment. 
 
 " Roman London thus enlarged itself from the Thames towards Moorfields, and the line of wall east 
 and south. The sepulchral deposits confirm its growth ; others, at more remote distances, indicate 
 subsequent enlargements ; while interments discovered at Holborn, Finsbury, Whitechapel, and the 
 extensive burial-places in Spitalfields and Goodman's-fields, denote that those localities were fixed on 
 when Londininm, in process of time, had spread over the extensive space inclosed by the wall." 
 C. Roach Smith, F.S.A. 
 
 After the Great Fire, the excavations brought to light much of the antiquarian 
 wealth of " the Roman stratum" of tessellated pavements, foundations of buildings, and 
 sculptural remains ; coins, urns, pottery, and utensils, tools, and ornaments. Whenever 
 excavations are made within the limits of the City of London, the workmen come to 
 the floors of Roman houses at a depth of from 12 to 18 or 20 feet under the present 
 level. (T. Wright, F.S.A.: The Celt, the Roman, and the Saxon, p. 123.) These floors 
 are often covered with fragments of the broken fresco-paintings of the walls, of which 
 Mr. Roach Smith has a large variety of patterns, such as foliage, animals, arabesque, 
 &c. ; and pieces of window-glass have often been found among these remains. T. 
 Wright, F.S.A., Archceological Album. 
 
 London was inwalled A.D. 306. (See CITY WALL AND GATES, pp. 233-246.)
 
 ROMAN LONDON. 713 
 
 The following are the principal localities in which remains of Roman London have 
 been, from time to time, discovered : 
 
 Aldgate, 1753. Stone and brick tower of the Roman wall, discovered by Maitland, 
 south of Aldgate ; the bricks sound, as newly laid. 
 
 Barbican. A roman specula, or watch-tower (the Castrum Exploratum of Stukeley's 
 Itinerary), stood without London, near the north-west angle of the walls, and was 
 called in the Saxon times the Burglikenning or Barbican, which gave name to the 
 present steet leading from Aldersgate-street to Whitecross-street. (Brayley's JLon- 
 diniana, vol. i. p. 40.) See, also, BABBICAN, p. 32. 
 
 Bevis Maries. A fine statue of a youth found, and rescued from the employes of the 
 Commissioners of Sewers by Mr. Roach Smith. 
 
 Billingsgate, 1774. In the parish of St. Mary-at-Hill were found human bones, 
 fragments of Roman bricks, and coins of Domitian of the middle brass ; and, in 1824, 
 urns and pavements were discovered near St. Dunstan's church, north of Billingsgate. 
 In 1848, portions of an apartment and a hypocaust were laid open in digging the foun- 
 dation of the new Coal Exchange, nearly opposite Billingsgate. The apartment is 
 paved with common red tesserae ; the outer wall, 3 feet thick, is built of tile-like bricks 
 and Kentish rag-stone, the mortar containing pounded brick, an unfailing evidence of 
 Roman work. The hypocaust, or hollow floor for receiving heated air when wood was 
 burnt in the furnace, and thus to warm the apartment above (probably a bath), agrees 
 to half an inch in the dimensions with those given by Vitruvius in his instructions for 
 the hypocaustum. The bottom is formed of concrete ; and piers support the covering 
 tiles, also covered with concrete. Pipes were also found, which, opening into the 
 hypocaust, were inserted in the walls, and conducted the warm air throughout the 
 building. The whole has been preserved. 1859. In excavating for a house on the 
 east side of the Coal Exchange, an additional portion of the Roman building, including 
 part of a hypocaust, was thrown open. It was found at a depth of about 11 feet from the 
 present surface. The hypocaust is nearly square, with a semicircle added towards the 
 east : the covering has been broken down, and exposes the piers fonned of square tiles 
 as in other cases : some of these are also broken down. Bones of various descriptions, 
 Roman tiles and portions of flues, fragments of pottery and glass, portions of tessera} 
 about an inch square, and pieces of vessels of mediaeval date, were discovered. To the 
 west of the hypocaust, against the Coal Exchange, is an ancient wall, built upon a 
 foundation of Roman materials : in one part formed of stones of large size : this may 
 have been a portion of the old wall of the Thames. (See BILLINGSGATE, p. 54.) 
 
 Bishopsgate, 1707. A tessellated pavement, urns with ashes and burnt bones, a blue 
 glass lachrymatory, and remains of the Roman wall, found at the west end of Camomile- 
 street, Bishopsgate, by Dr. Woodward. In rebuilding Bishopsgate Church iq 1725, 
 several urns, paterae, and other remains were discovered, with a vault arched with 
 equilateral Roman bricks, and Dr. Stukeley saw there, in 1726, a Roman grave, con- 
 structed with large tiles, which kept the earth from the body. In 1836 a pavement of 
 red, white, and grey tesserse, in a guilloche pattern, was discovered under a house at 
 the south-west angle of Crosby-square, Bishopsgate; supposed very early Anglo-Roman. 
 (ArcJteeoloffia, vol. xxvii. p. 397.) Maitland describes a similar pavement found on the 
 north side of Little St. Helen's gateway in 1712 ; the site of St. Helen's Priory was 
 probably occupied by an extensive Roman building ; and remains of floors prove Crosby 
 Hall to be on the site of a magnificent Roman edifice. 
 
 Blackfriars. A fragment of the old wall, and parts of the monastic buildings erected 
 upon it, are still preserved below the offices of the Times newspaper. One part of this 
 interesting relic is evidently much older than the other, and the most ancient was found 
 to be so hard, as to set at defiance the tools of the workmen. During alterations, seve- 
 ral encaustic tiles, the finials of the fleur-de-lis shape, a Roman tile, and in the neigh- 
 bourhood of the printing-office, several melting-pots and pieces of glass, mostly in a 
 half-manufactured state, were found : they are carefully preserved at the Times office. 
 (See BLACKFRIAKS, p. 56.) 
 
 Broad-street, Old, 1854. On taking down the Excise Office, at about 15 feet lower 
 than the foundations of Gresham House (on the site of which the Excise Office was 
 built), was found a pavement, 28 feet square.
 
 714 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 It is a geometrical pattern of broad blue lines, forming intersections of octagon and lozenge com- 
 partments. The octagon figures are bordered with a cable pattern, shaded with grey, and interlaced 
 with a square border, shaded with red and yellow. In the centres, within a ring, are expanded flowers, 
 shaded in red, yellow, and grey ; the double row of leaves radiating from a figure called a true love- 
 knot, alternately with a figure something like the tiger-lily. Between the octagon figures are square 
 compartments bearing various devices : in the centre of the pavement is Ariadne, or a Bacchante, 
 reclining on the back of a panther; but only the fore-paws, one of the hind-paws, and the tail remain. 
 Over the head of the figure floats a light drapery, forming an arch. Another square contains a two- 
 handled vase. In the demi-octagons, at the sides of the pattern, are lunettes : one contains a fan orna- 
 ment; another, a bowl crowned with flowers. The lozenge intersections are variously embellished 
 with leaves, shells, truelove-knots, chequers, and an ornament shaped like a dice-box. At the corners 
 of the pattern are truelove-knots. Surrounding this pattern is a broad cable-like border, broad bands 
 of blue and white alternately ; then a floral scroll ; and beyond this an edge of demi-lozenges, in alter- 
 nate blue and white. An outer border, composed of plain red tesserae, surrounds the whole. The 
 ground of the pavement is white, and the other colours are a scale of full red, yellow, and a bluish grey. 
 This pavement is of late workmanship. Various Roman and mediaeval articles were turned up in the 
 same excavation : among these are a silver denarius of Hadrian, several copper coins of Constantine, 
 and a small copper coin bearing on the reverse the figures of Romulus and Remus suckled by the tra- 
 ditionary wolf; several Roman and mediaeval tiles and fragments of pottery; a small glass of a fine 
 blue colour, and coins and tradesmen's tokens. 
 
 Cannon-street, 1852. Tessellated pavement, fragments of Samian ware, earthen 
 urns and lamp, and other Roman vessels, found from 12 to 20 feet deep, near Basin'g- 
 lane, New Cannon-street, upon the supposed site of Tower Eoyal. 1850. Among 
 the ruins of a Roman edifice, at 11 feet deep, was found in Nicholas-lane, near Cannon- 
 street, a large slab, inscribed, " NVM PEOV BBITA" (Numini Czesaris Provincia 
 Britannia). 
 
 There was every reason to believe the residue was at hand, but neither the contractor 
 nor the civic authorities would countenance a search. With some little difficulty the 
 stone, apparently the dedicatory inscription of a temple, almost unique of its class in 
 this country, was received into the Guildhall, and deposited at the foot of the staircase 
 leading into the library ; but it has since disappeared. 
 
 Cheapside, 1595. A vault and pavement found at the depth of 17 feet, at the 
 north-west corner of Bread-street ; and near it a tree cut into steps, on the supposed 
 edge of a brook that had run towards Walbrook. In 1671 Sir Christopher Wren, in 
 digging for the foundation of the church of St. Mary-le-Bow, at 18 feet deep, reached 
 a Roman causeway, of bricks and rubble firmly cemented, which, it is supposed, formed, 
 at the time it was constructed, the northern boundary of the colony ; and upon this was 
 laid the foundation of the church-tower. Wren mistook the crypt of the ancient 
 Norman church for Roman, from a number of Roman bricks being used in the arches. 
 (See Godwin's Churches of London, 1839.) 
 
 CrutcTied Friars, 1842. A group of the Dece Matres discovered in excavating a 
 sewer in Hart-street, Crutched Friars, at a considerable depth, among the ruins of Roman 
 buildings; these sculptured remains are in the Guildhall Library. 
 
 Dowgate. The discovery of a large building and tessellated pavement here has 
 suggested that Dowgate was the palace of the Roman prefect, and the basilica or court 
 of justice. 
 
 Finsbury. Opposite the Circus, at 19 feet deep, has been discovered a well-turned 
 Roman arch, at the entrance of which, on the Finsbury side, were iron bars, apparently 
 to restrain sedge and weeds from choking the water-passage. 
 
 Foster-lane, 1830. In excavating for the New Goldsmith's Hall, was found, 15 feet 
 below the level of the street, in a stratum of clay, a stone altar of Diana, 23 inches 
 high, sculptured hi front with a figure closely resembling the Diana Venatrix of the 
 Louvre. The sides each contain the type of a tree ; on the back are the remains of an 
 inscription, below which are a tripod, a sacrificial vessel, and a hare. The finding of 
 this altar supports the inference that the ground was the site of the Temple of Diana, 
 referred by some antiquaries to the spot where St. Paul's now stands. The altar is 
 preserved in Goldsmith's Hall. (See Archceologia, vol. xxix. p. 145.) 
 
 Grey Friars, 1836. A fluted pillar, supposed Roman, found in the fragment of a 
 wall of the Grey Friars' Monastery : it is almost the only specimen of the kind 
 noticed. 
 
 Houndsditch, .1845. The torso of a white marble statue of a slinger, discovered 17 
 feet deep, in Petticoat-lane.
 
 ROMAN LONDON. 715 
 
 Islington. In the fields, about midway between White Conduit House and Copen- 
 hagen House, near Islington, were, until built over, considerable remains of Keedmont 
 (or Redmont) Field ; a camp said to have been occupied by Suetonius Paulinus, A.D. 61, 
 whose contest with Boadicea at Battle-bridge has been confirmed by a Roman inscrip- 
 tion discovered in 1842. Highbury, the summer camp of the Romans, is noticed at 
 p. 420. In 1825, arrow heads and figured pavement were found at Reedmont. 
 (Hone's Every-day Book, vol. ii. p. 1566.) 
 
 King-William-street, Lothbury, and Princes-street, 1834, 1835, 1836. Various 
 remains found in forming the new thoroughfare across the heart of the City, from 
 London Bridge to the line of the old wall at Moorgate. Evidences of Roman habita- 
 tions, at the depth of 14 and 20 feet, on either side of the line of King William -street. 
 Near St. Clement's Church, pavement, earthenware lamps, Samian ware, and coins. 
 Along the line of Princes-street, brass scales, fibula?, styli, needles in brass and bone, 
 coins, a sharpening steel, several knives, and vessels of Sainian ware. In Lothbury, at 
 10 or 12 feet deep, chisels, crowbars, hammers, &c. ; a leathern sandal, red and black 
 pottery, &c. ; a coin of Antoninus Pius, with Britannia on the reverse. Prom Lothbury 
 to London Wall, brass coins of Claudius, Vespasian, and Trajan j spatulse, styli, needles, 
 a gold ring, brass tweezers, a hair-pin, and pottery. Near the Swan's Nest in Coleman- 
 street, a pit of earthen vessels, a coin of Ailectus (296), a boat-hook, and a bucket- 
 handle. At Honey-lane, under some Saxon remains, a few Roman coins. In Bread- 
 street, richly figured Samian vases, circular earthen cooking-pans ; and wall designs, 
 fresh in colour, and resembling those of modern paper-hangings. (C. R. Smith, F.S.A. 
 Archaologia, vol. xxvii.) At the corner of St. Swithin's-lane have been found several 
 skeletons, fragments of pottery ; and coins, in second-brass, of Antonia, Claudius, Nero, 
 and Vespasian. 
 
 Leadenhall-street, 1576. A pavement found at the Leadenhall-street end of Lime- 
 street, at 12 feet deep ; and between Billiter-lane and Lime-street, a stone wall and 
 arched gate, which Stow supposes to have belonged to a Roman house destroyed by fire 
 in the reign of Stephen. 1803. A magnificent pavement discovered in front of the 
 India House, Leadeuhall-street, described at p. 319. 1863. A pavement found near 
 the site of the portico of the India House in Leadenhall-street. It forms a square oi 
 about five feet, set in a floor of common red tesserae. The pattern is ingenious. Under 
 the pavement were found broken portions of plaster, with red, black, and grey stripes, 
 rery perfect as to colour. 
 
 Lombard-street, 1786. At about 13 feet deep were found brick ruins, upon three 
 inches thick of wood ashes, beneath which was Roman pavement, common and tessellated 
 (Sir John Henniker ; Archceologia, vol. viii.). Also, near Sherborne-lane, at 12 feet 
 deep, a pavement running across Lombard-street, between which and the Post-office, but 
 along the north side, ran a wall 10 feet below the street-level, built of " the smaller- 
 sized Roman bricks," and pierced by perpendicular flues, the chimneys of a mansion. 
 Other fragments of walls and pavements were found; and in Birchin-lane was un- 
 covered a tessellated pavement of elegant design ; with great quantities of Roman corns, 
 fragments of pottery and glass bottles, keys and beads, a large vessel of figured Samian 
 ware, &c. (See LOMBABD-STBEET, p. 531.) 
 
 London Stone, Cannon-street, is described at pp. 533-534. 
 
 Lothbury, 1805. Tessellated pavement : now in the British Museum. 
 
 Ludgate. Upon the site of the present church of St. Martin, Wren found a small 
 sepulchral stone monument to Vivianus Marcianus, a soldier of the second legion, erected 
 by his wife, and sculptured with his effigies and a dedicatory inscription : this monu- 
 ment is now among the Arundel Marbles at Oxford. 1792. Barbican or watch-tower 
 of the City Wall discovered between Ludgate and the Fleet-ditch. 1800. Sepulchral 
 monument found in the rear of the London Coffee-house, Ludgate-hill (see p. 539.) 
 This relic has been removed to the Corporation Museum, Guildhall. 
 
 Moorjields. An inscribed stone, in memory of Grata, the daughter of Dagobitus, 
 has been discovered at London Wall. Mr. Roach Smith is of opinion that the London 
 of the Britons was situated in Moorfields ; and on this aboriginal establishment the 
 Romans afterwards enlarged. In 1818 a large portion of the wall on both sides of 
 Moorgate was demolished.
 
 716 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Pavements discovered in Bush-lane, Cannon-street, in 1666 ; near St. Andrew's Church, 
 Holborn, in 1681 ; at Crutched Friars in 1787 ; behind the Old Navy Pay-Office in 
 Broad-street; in Northumberland- alley, Fenchurch-street ; and in Long- lane, Smith- 
 field, about the commencement of the present century; near the church of St. 
 Dunstan's-in-the-East, in 1824; in East Cheap in 1831 ; at St. Clement's Church, and 
 in Lothbury, opposite Founders'-court, in 1834 ; in Crosby-square in 1836 ; behind 
 Winchester House, Bankside, in 1850 ; and in various places on both sides of High- 
 street, Southwark, between 1818 and 1831. (G. L. Craik, in Knight's London, vol. i.) 
 Some stamped tiles bear the earliest abbreviation of the name of Londinium : they read 
 PBR LON and P-B-LON, supposed Probatum Londinii proved of the proper quality 
 at London; or Prima (cohors) ERitonum LONdiww, the first (cohort) of the Britons 
 at London. (C. R. Smith, F.S.A.) Or, Mr. Wright interprets P. PR. BR. upon 
 another tile, as Proprietor Britannia Londinii, the Propraetor of Britain at Londinium ; 
 showing that Roman London was the seat of the government of the province. See a 
 list of potter's stamps on pottery found in different metropolitan localities in the Anti- 
 quarian and Architectural Year-book for 1844. 
 
 Royal Exchange, 1841. In excavating for the foundations was opened an ancient 
 gravel-pit, filled with various Roman relics, described at p. 326 ; many of which are 
 preserved in the Corporation Museum. Remains of buildings covered the whole site of 
 the present Exchange, denoting this to have been one of the most magnificent portions 
 of Roman London. 
 
 Shadwell, 1615. Two coffins (stone and lead), with bones, lachrymatories, and two 
 ivory sceptres, found in Sun Tavern Fields. 
 
 Southwark. Discoveries of tessellated pavements on and about the site of St. Saviour's 
 Church, and other remains of buildings, pottery, lamps, glass vessels, &c., throughout 
 the line of High-street, denote this to have been within Roman London ; and a burial- 
 ground of the period has been discovered on the site of that now attached to the Dis- 
 senters' Chapel, Deverill-street, New Kent-road. 
 
 Spitalflelds. Urns, with ashes and burnt human bones, coins (Claudius, Nero, Ves- 
 pasian, and Antoninus Pius), lachrymatories, lamps, and Samian ware, found in the 
 Lottesworth or Spitalfield. 
 
 Strand. " The Old Roman Spring Bath" in Strand-lane, between Nos. 162 and 
 163, is of accredited antiquity. The bath itself is Roman : the walls being layers of 
 brick and thin layers of stucco ; and the pavement of similar brick covered with stucco, 
 and resting upon a mass of stucco and rubble : the bricks are 9^ inches long, 4^ inches 
 broad, and 1|- inches thick, and resemble the bricks in the City Wall. The property 
 can be traced to the Danvers (or D'Anvers) family, of Swithland Hall, Leicestershire, 
 whose mansion stood upon the spot. 
 
 St. George' 's-in-the-East, 1715. Many sepulchral remains found in digging the 
 foundations of St. George's Church, near Goodman's Fields ; and in 1787, fragments of 
 urns and lachrymatories, and an inscribed Roman stone, were dug up in the Tenter- 
 ground. 
 
 St. Martin' s-lane, 1772. In digging the foundations of the new church of St. Martin- 
 in-the-Fields, were found, at 14 feet deep, a Roman brick arch ; and " buffalo-heads," 
 according to Gibbs, the architect. In Sir Hans Sloane's Museum was a glass vase con- 
 taining ashes, which was found in a stone coffin upon the site of St. Martin's portico. 
 
 St. Martin' s-le- Grand, 1819. Roman vaultings, discovered in digging for the foun- 
 dations of the General Post-office. 
 
 St. Pancras, 1758. " Caesar's Camp," near St. Pancras Church, discovered by Dr. 
 Stukeley (see p. 641). 
 
 St. Paul's Churchyard. In 1675, Wren, in excavating for the foundations of the 
 present St. Paul's Cathedral, discovered many Saxon and British graves ; and 18 feet 
 or more deep, Roman urns intermixed, 
 
 " belonging to the colony, when the Romans and Britons lived and died together. The more remark- 
 able Roman urns, lamps, and lachrymatories, fragments of sacrificing vessels, &c. were found deep in 
 the ground, about a claypit (under the north-east angle of the present choir) which had been dug by 
 the Koman potters, 'in a stratum of close and hard pot-earth, that extends beneath the whole site^of 
 St. Paul's ;' here ' the urns, broken vessels, and pottery-ware' were met with in great abundance." 
 Wren's Parentalia.
 
 ROHAN LONDON. 717 
 
 Wren "rummaged" the ground, but failed to discover any traces of the Roman Temple 
 of Diana or Apollo reputed to have heen built here. Dr. Woodward, however, possessed 
 sacrificing vessels, bearing representations of Diana, said to have been dug up at St. Paul's ; 
 besides a brass figure of Diana, found between the Deanery and Blackfriars and believed 
 Roman.* As Londinium was the great centre of the commerce of Britain it might be ex- 
 Dected that it would supply specimens of the pottery of antiquity: accordingly nowliere in 
 
 --"*- "* "-" kinds been discovered. John Conyers, 
 
 ought to 
 I pottery 
 ed glazed 
 rs' stamps 
 
 ames, and 
 e Thames, 
 penates of 
 ii.) Brass 
 > ' .ar on the 
 ly bridge : 
 
 h the old 
 deep : they 
 ; of Roman 
 j of Roman 
 c. Various 
 stone coffin 
 fc stood here 
 
 >f Ordnance, 
 buildings; a 
 .onorius and 
 the Romans 
 
 hern portion 
 hed remains ; 
 Also, inscrip- 
 by his heir; 
 an of greater 
 
 i the surface, 
 
 the middle of 
 
 ed pavement. 
 
 e," from some 
 
 gments of the 
 
 Steelyard, in- 
 
 , together with 
 
 rived from the 
 
 iteen centuries. 
 
 fine hypocaust; 
 
 mo. M. i^; "all. &c- 
 
 WalbrooTc, T77 a; cga?sraaTH ^** M r-n--^ M^_ %> fer fr m Dow- 
 
 gate through Walbrook. **% 
 
 WTiitechapel, 1776. Monumental stone to a soldier of the 24th legion, found in a 
 burial-ground at the lower end of Whitechapel-lane. 
 
 * In excavating, in 1853, for Cook's colossal warehouse (built in 90 days), on the south side of St. 
 Paul's Churchyard, there was found at twenty feet deep a Danish gravestone, inscribed in Runic KIN A 
 caused this stone to be laid over, or in memory of, TUKI. The date of this relic is about A.D. 1000; 
 and it is said to be the only Runic monument known to have been discovered in London. Proc. Soyal 
 Society of Northern Antiquaries.
 
 716 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Pavements discovered in Bush-lane, Cannon-street, in 1666 ; near St. Andrew's Church, 
 
 Holborn, in 1681 ; at Crutched Friars in 1787 ; behind the Old Navy Pay-Office in 
 
 Broad-street; in Northumberland- alley, Fenchurch-street ; and in Long- lane, Smith- 
 field, about the commencement of the present century; near the church of St. 
 
 Dunstan's-in-the-East, in 1824; in East Cheap in 1831 ; at St. Clement's Church, and 
 
 in Lothbury, opposite Founders'-court, in 1834; in Crosby-square in 1836: behind 
 
 Winchester w -^ '" 
 
 street, Soi 
 
 Some stan 
 
 PBRLO 
 
 at London 
 
 at Londor 
 
 another til 
 
 showing tl 
 
 list of pott 
 
 quarian ai 
 Royal 1 
 
 gravel-pit, 
 
 preserved i 
 
 the presem 
 
 of Roman ". 
 Shadwel 
 
 ivory scept: 
 Southwa 
 
 Church, an 
 
 the line of 1 . 
 
 ground of t 
 
 senters' Ch; 
 Spitalfle 
 
 pasian, and 
 
 Lotteswortl 
 Strand. 
 
 163, is of ac 
 
 brick and tl 
 
 and resting 
 
 broad, and '. 
 
 can be trace 
 
 whose mans 
 St. Geon 
 
 foundations 
 
 urns and lac 
 
 ground. 
 
 S t. Marti. 
 in-the-Fields 
 according to 
 taining ashei 
 St. Marti 
 dations of th 
 
 St. Pancr . , ..* v~ *j +->. 
 
 Stukeley (sei, r . j**.^. 
 
 St. Paul's Churchyard. In 1675, Wren, in excavating for the foundations of the 
 present St. Paul's Cathedral, discovered many Saxon and British graves ; and 18 feet 
 or more deep, Roman urns intermixed, 
 
 " belonging to the colony, when the Romans and Britons lived and died together. The more remark- 
 able Roman urns, lamps, and lachrymatories, fragments of sacrificing vessels, &c. were found deep in 
 the ground, about a claypit (under the north-east angle of the present choir) which had been dusr by 
 the Roman potters, 'in a stratum of close and hard pot-earth, that extends beneath the whole rite of 
 St. Paul's ;' here ' the urns, broken vessels, and pottery-ware' were met with in great abundance." 
 Wren's Parentalia.
 
 ROMAN LONDON. 717 
 
 Wren " rummaged" the ground, but failed to discover any traces of the Roman Temple 
 of Diana or Apollo reputed to have been built here. Dr. Woodward, however, possessed 
 sacrificing vessels, bearing representations of Diana, said to have been dug up at St. Paul's ; 
 besides a brass figure of Diana, found between the Deanery and Blackfriars and believed 
 Roman.* As Londinium was the great centre of the commerce of Britain it might be ex- 
 pected that it would supply specimens of the pottery of antiquity: accordingly noiohere in 
 England has such an immense quantity of various kinds been discovered. John Conyers, 
 the antiquary, in 1677, observed the remains of Roman kilns, which were brought to 
 light in digging the foundations of St. Paul's. Specimens of the ornamented pottery 
 made in the Castor district have been also found here, and nowhere has the red glazed 
 pottery known as "Samian" Ware, been found more plentifully; the potters' stamps 
 present upwards of 300 varieties. 
 
 Thames River. A silver Harpocrates found in 1825 in the bed of the Thames, and 
 now in the British Museum. 1837. Bronzes found in ballast-heaving in the Thames, 
 near London Bridge, including Mercury, Apollo, and Atys ; probably the penates of 
 some opulent Roman family. (C. Roach Smith, F.S.A., Arch&ologia, vol. xxvii.) Brass 
 pins of various lengths, stated to have been found on the paper, in a cellar on the 
 northern bank of the Thames in excavating for the South-Eastern Railway bridge : 
 they have solid globose heads. 
 
 Threadneedle-street, 1840-1841. Tessellated pavements found beneath the old 
 French Protestant Church in Threadneedle-street, at about 12 or 14 feet deep : they 
 are preserved in the British Museum. In 1854 was found a large deposit of Roman 
 debris, in excavating the site of the church of St. Bennet Fink ; consisting of Roman 
 tiles, flue-tiles, fragments of black, pale, and red Samian pottery ; glass, &c. Various 
 fragments of Roman vases found, together with the lid of an Early-English stone coffin 
 and part of the tracery of a Gothic window, probably part of the church that stood here 
 before the Great Fire. 
 
 Tower, 1777. In digging the foundations of a new office for the Board of Ordnance, 
 within the Tower, at a great depth, were discovered remains of ancient buildings ; a 
 silver ingot impressed " Ex OFFIC. HONOKII," and three gold coins of Honorius and 
 Arcadius ; a small glass crown, and an inscribed stone ; thus indicating that the Romans 
 had a fortress upon the Tower site. 
 
 Tower Hill, 1852. Fragments of a Roman building found at the northern portion 
 of the City Wall, including the supposed volute of a capital, and other enriched remains ; 
 besides a Roman sarcophagus nearly entire : now in the British Museum. Also, inscrip- 
 tion in memory of Alfidius Pornpus, set up in compliance with his will by his heir ; 
 another at the same time, in the same place, commemorating some person of greater 
 distinction. 
 
 Upper Thames-street, 1839. Opposite Vintners' Hall, at 10 feet from the surface, 
 were found remains of the Wall parallel with the Thames ; and about the middle of 
 Queen-street, 19 feet from the surface, was unearthed a fine tessellated pavement. 
 1865. At the corner of Suffolk -lane, on part of " the Manor of the Rose," from some 
 15 or 16 feet deep, a large quantity of Roman foundation-tiles and fragments of the 
 embankment- wall for the river. 1866. Several articles from the old Steelyard, in- 
 cluding bone pins, styli, spatulse, and other Roman antiquities in bronze, together with 
 some iron keys. The bronze objects were of a brilliant golden hue, derived from the 
 damp soil in which they had been buried for, probably, not less than eighteen centuries. 
 
 Lower Thames-street. Bricks and coins, urns and pavements ; a very fine hypocaust; 
 and a portion of a Roman building and another hypocaust, remains of wall, &c. 
 
 WalbrooTc, 1774. Wood-ashes found, 22 feet deep, in making a sewer from Dow- 
 gate through Walbrook. 
 
 Whitechapel, 1776. Monumental stone to a soldier of the 24th legion, found in a 
 burial-ground at the lower end of Whitechapel-lane. 
 
 * In excavating, in 1853, for Cook's colossal warehouse (built in 90 days), on the south side of St. 
 Paul's Churchyard, there was found at twenty feet deep a Danish gravestone, inscribed in Runic KIN A 
 caused this stone to be laid over, or in memory of, TUKI. The date of this relic is about A.D. 1000; 
 and it is said to be the only Runic monument known to have been discovered in London. Proc. Royal 
 Society of Northern Antiquaries.
 
 718 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 In Mr. Charles Eoach Smith's Museum of London Antiquities, described at p. 590, are 528 Roman 
 items, collected in the metropolis during street-improvements, sewerage, and the deepening of the bed 
 of the Thames. These objects include Roman sculpture, bronzes, pottery, terra-cotta lamps, red glazed 
 pottery, potters' stamps, glass ; tiles, pavements, and wall-paintings; personal ornaments, sandals in 
 leather, utensils and implements, and coins. The Museum contains the same number of Anglo-Saxon, 
 and Norman, and Mediaeval remains. (See the Catalogue, with illustrations by F. W. Fairholt, F.S.A., 
 printed for the Subscribers only, 1854.) 
 
 The list of Eoman coins found in London and enumerated in the above catalogue 
 amounts to upwards of 2000 ; yet this list contains those only which, for about the 
 last 30 years, have passed under the eye of Mr. Roach Smith, chiefly from the bed of 
 the Thames. 
 
 " A much larger number within that period of time must have been found. Six hundred, or more, 
 picked up from gravel dredged from the Thames, and strewed along the bank of the Surrey Canal, were 
 collected by the late Mr. R. Pimm, of Deptford. It is well to record this fact, because the gravel taken 
 from the bed of the Thames below London-bridge has been extensively used for repairing the banks of 
 the river at Barnes and other places, and this gravel contained large quantities of coins, the finding of 
 which in some future day may puzzle and deceive persons ignorant of their history. A hoard of denarii 
 of the Higher Empire was found in the City, which, the corporation having declined purchasing, was 
 bought by Mr. Mark Boyd. Vast quantities are said to have been found in removing the piers of old 
 London-bridge and in excavating the approaches to the new bridge. Of these, and of those exhumed 
 in the City in former times, scarcely a record has been preserved. The list here presented will not give 
 more than an imperfect notion of the number actually brought to light, but it will serve to convey a 
 faint idea of the incalculable quantity which must have been met with, both in modern times and in 
 past ages." C. Eoach Smith, F.8.A. 
 
 * 
 ROTSERHITHE, 
 
 A MANOR and parish between Deptford and Bermondsey, on the Surrey bank of 
 * the Thames, was anciently called Setherhith, probably from the Saxon redhra, a 
 mariner, and hyth, a haven i.e. the sailor's harbour. (Brayley's Surrey.} It is vul- 
 garly Bedrijf. At the time of Domesday, it was included in the royal manor of 
 Bermondsey ; but it was not surrendered until the reign of Charles I. A fleet was 
 fitted out at Rotherhithe in the reign of Edward III., by order of the Black Prince 
 and John of Gaunt. Lambarde states that Henry IV. lodged in an " old stone house 
 here whiles he was cured of a leprosie ;" and two of Henry's charters are dated here, 
 July, 1412. The mother-church of St. Mary is described at p. 187 : Gataker, the 
 erudite Latin critic, was rector from 1611 to 1654 ; he was imprisoned in the Fleet by 
 Laud, and is buried here. In the churchyard lies Prince Le Boo. The registers, com- 
 mencing 1556, contain many entries of ages from 90 to 99 years, and one of 120 years. 
 Admiral Sir Charles Wager possessed the manor between 1740 and 1750. The brave 
 Admiral Sir John Leake was born here June, 1656 ; but Admiral Benbow, stated by 
 Manning and Bray to have been born at Rotherhithe, was a native of Coton-hill, 
 Shrewsbury. (See Gent. Mag. Dec. 1809.) George Lillo, the dramatist, who wrote 
 the plays of George Sarnwell, Arden of Fever sham, and Fatal Curiosity, was a jeweller 
 living at Rotherhithe in 1735. 
 
 Swift's Captain Gulliver, he tells us, was long an inhabitant of Botherhithe. There is such a 
 reality given to this person by Swift that one seaman is said to have sworn that he knew Captain 
 Gulliver very well, but he lived at Wapping, not at Rotherhithe. Lord Scarborough fell in company 
 with a master of a ship who told him he was very well acquainted with Gulliver, but that the printer 
 had mistaken ; that he lived in Wapping, not in Rotherhithe. " It is as true as if Mr. Gulliver had 
 spoken it," was a sort of proverb among his neighbours at Redriff. Rogers, the poet, remarked in the 
 churchyard at Banbury several inscriptions to persons named Gulliver, and on his return home, looking 
 into Gulliver's Travel*, Mr. Rogers found to his surprise that the said inscriptions are mentioned there 
 as a confirmation of Mr. Gulliver's statement, that "his family came from Oxfordshire;" so completely 
 is the joke kept up. 
 
 " In five long years I took no second spouse ; 
 What Redriff wife so long hath kept her vows?" 
 
 Gay's Epistle Mary Gulliver to the Captain. 
 
 A fire, June 1, 1765, destroyed here 206 houses, and property worth 100,0002. In 
 1804, a tunnel from Rotherhithe, beneath the Thames, to Limehouse, was commenced 
 by Vasey and Trevethick, but failed. The " Thames Tunnel," by Brunei, commences 
 at a short distance east of St. Mary's Church. The Commercial Docks at Rotherhithe 
 are described at p. 309. 
 
 Gerard mentions the Water Gladiole as growing " by the famous river Thamesis, not far from a 
 peece of ground called the Divel's neckerchiefe neere Redriffe by London," The Devil's Neckerchief
 
 EOYAL SOCIETY. 
 
 was a zigzag piece of swampy ground, which became perverted to Neekinger, as the vulgar phrase MucTc- 
 inger is applied to a pocket-handkerchief. The ground is now " the Neckinger-road," with Neekinger 
 Mills, &c. : it is in the parish of Bermondsey, not far from the boundary of Kotherhithe. It has been 
 called " the devil's neck in danger," from the dangerous course of the road between two ditches, as 
 shown iu Sayer's Map of London, 1768, in which the name is spelled " Neckincher." In Phillips's Ber- 
 mondsey, 1841, it is stated that the Neekinger Ditch is an ancient water-course, and was formerly navi- 
 gable to Bermondsey Abbey. See Notes and Queries, 2nd s. Nos. 71 and 73. 
 
 EOYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS. See PICTUBE GALLERIES, p. 676. 
 EOYAL EXCHANGE. See EXCHANOES, pp. 322-329. 
 
 EOYAL INSTITUTION, THE, 
 
 NO. 21, Albemarle-street, Piccadilly, was founded in 1799, " for diffusing the know- 
 ledge, and facilitating the general introduction, of useful mechanical inventions and 
 improvements ; and for teaching, by courses of philosophical lectures and experiments, 
 the application of science to the common purposes of life :" hence the motto of the 
 Institution, Illustrans commoda vitce. It was incorporated in 1800. The Institution 
 has been worthily designated as " the workshop of the Royal Society ;" for within its 
 laboratory Sir Humphry Davy made those brilliant discoveries which were published 
 through the medium of the Transactions of the Royal Society ; and the example of 
 Davy has been followed by Faraday. Sir Joseph Banks, Count Rumford, and Mr. 
 Cavendish were among the founders of the Royal Institution. In the basement was an 
 experimental kitchen, with Rumford stoves, roasters, and boilers ; apparatus for heating 
 water by steam, &c. ; a workshop for coppersmiths and braziers. Above are a labora- 
 tory, lecture-theatre, museum, library (see p. 464), and model repository. Here 
 Davy gave his first lecture, April 25, 1801 ; and in 1807 discovered by galvanism the 
 composition of the fixed alkalis, and their metallic bases, potassium and sodium : his 
 great voltaic battery consisted of 2000 double plates of copper and zinc, of 4 inches 
 square, the whole surface being 128,000 square inches. Davy was succeeded by Brande ; 
 and Faraday was, in 1833, chosen for a second chair of Chemistry, the Fullerian, 
 founded by John Fuller, Esq., whose bequests have amounted to 10,0002. The mine- 
 ralogical collection in the museum was commenced by Davy. 
 
 The history of chemical science dates one of its principal epochs from the foundation of the labora- 
 tory of the Boyal Institution. Here the researches of Davy and Faraday extended over nearly half a 
 century: including the laws of electro-chemical decomposition, the decomposition of the fixed alkalis, 
 the establishment of the nature of chlorine, the philosophy of flame, the condensibility of many 
 gases, the science of magneto-electricity, the twofold magnetism of matter, and the magnetism of gases. 
 Here Coleridge gave his celebrated Lectures on Poetry. Among the MSS. in the Library are fifty-six 
 volumes of Letters, &c., respecting the American War ; Papers of Lord Stanhope ; and the Laboratory 
 Note-Books of Sir Humphry Davy. 
 
 The Institution building, originally five houses, received its present architectural 
 front, by L. Vulliamy, in 1839. 
 
 The institution owes much to the talent of Faraday, who, in the words of the Honorary Secre- 
 tary, " has worked long and much for the love of the Institution, and little for its money. For forty 
 years, from 1813 to 1853, his fixed income from the Institution was not more than 20<M. per annum. In 
 1853, Professor Tyndall was elected to lecture on Natural Philosophy for 2001. per annum. In 1859, he 
 received 3001. per annum." Mr. Brande succeeded Sir Humphry Davy as Professor of Chemistry, and 
 was from 1820 associated with Mr. Faraday ; he died in 1866, at the age of 81. 
 
 EOYAL SOCIETY. 
 
 THIS is the oldest Society of its kind in Europe, except the Lyncean Academy at 
 Rome, of which Galileo was a member. The Royal Society originated in London, 
 about 1645, in the weekly meetings of " divers worthy persons inquisitive into natural 
 philosophy, and other parts of human learning; and particularly the new philosophy, or 
 experimental philosophy ;" these meetings being first suggested by Theodore Haak, a 
 German of the Palatinate, then resident in the metropolis. This is supposed to be the 
 club which Mr. Boyle, in 1646, designated " the Invisible or Philosophical Society." 
 They met at Dr. Goddard's lodgings in Wood-street ; at the Bull's Head Tavern, Cheap-
 
 720 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 side; and at Gresham College. About 1648-9, some of the members, including Dr. 
 (afterwards Bishop) Wilkins, removed to Oxford, and were joined by Seth Smith, 
 Ralph Bathurst, Sir William Petty, and the Hon. Robert Boyle, who met at Petty 's 
 lodgings in an apothecary's house, " because of the convenience of inspecting drugs." 
 The members in London continued also to meet, until, in 1658, they were ejected from 
 Gresham College, which was required for barracks. Evelyn, Cowley, and Sir William 
 Petty proposed separate plans for a " philosophical college :" Sprat says that Cowley's 
 proposition accelerated the foundation of the Royal Society, in praise of which he sub- 
 sequently wrote an ode. At the Restoration, in 1660, the meetings were revived ; and 
 April 22, 1662, the Society was incorporated by royal charter, by Charles II. This 
 charter is on four sheets of vellum, and has on the first sheet ornamental initials and 
 flowers, and a finely executed portrait of Charles in Indian inkj appended is the 
 Great Seal in green wax. The Charter empowers the President to wear his hat while 
 in the chair, and the fellows addressed the President bareheaded till he made a sign for 
 them to put on their hats ; customs now obsolete. Next year the King granted a 
 second charter, which is of greater importance than the first ; and his Majesty presented 
 the Society with the silver-gilt mace. 
 
 The Mace is about 4 feet in length, and weighs 190 oz. avoirdupois : its stem is chased with the 
 thistle, and has an urn-shaped head, surmounted by a crowii, ball, and cross. Upon the head are 
 embossed figures of a rose, harp, thistle, and fleur-de-lis, and the initials C.R. four times repeated. 
 Under the crown are chased the royal arms; and at the other extremity of the stem are two shields, 
 one bearing the Society's arms, the other a Latin inscription denoting the mace to have been presented 
 to the Society by Charles II. in 1663. It was long believed by numberless visitors to be the " bauble" 
 mace turned out of the House of Commons by Cromwell when he dissolved the Long Parliament; but 
 Mr. Weld, the assistant-secretary and librarian, in a communication to the Society, April 30, 1846, 
 proved this to be a popular error, by showing the warrant for making this mace and delivering it to 
 Lord Brouncker, the first President of the Society. Again, the " bauble" was altogether different in 
 form from the Society's mace, and was nearly destitute of ornament, and without the crown and cross, 
 as described in Whitelock's Memorials, and represented accordingly in West's picture of the Dissolu- 
 tion of the Long Parliament. 
 
 From this session, 1663, date the Philosophical Transactions, wherein the proceed- 
 ings and discoveries of the Society are registered. This year the Society exercised their 
 privilege of claiming the bodies of criminals executed at Tyburn, which were to be 
 dissected in Gresham College. In 1664, the king signed himself in the charter-book 
 as the founder ; and his brother, the Duke of York, signed as a fellow. In 1667 
 Chelsea College was granted to the Society, for their meetings, laboratory, repository, 
 and library ; but the building was too dilapidated, " the annoyance of Prince Rupert's 
 glass-house" adjoined it, and the property was purchased back for the king's use for 
 13001. The Society then resumed their meetings in Gresham College, until they were 
 dispersed by the Great Plague and Fire, after which they met in Arundel House in the 
 Strand. The Fellows now (1667) numbered 200, and their subscription 1*. per week ; 
 from the payment of which Newton, who joined the Society in 1674, was excused, on 
 account of his narrow finances. 
 
 In 1674 the Society returned to Gresham College. They were fiercely attacked : a 
 Warwick physician accused them of attempting to undermine the Universities, to bring 
 in popery and absurd novelties ; but a severer satire was The Elephant in the Moon, 
 by Butler. Among their early practices was the fellows gathering May-dew, and ex- 
 perimenting with the divining-rod; and the Hon. Robert Boyle believed in the efficacy 
 of the touch of Greatrakes the Stroker for the evil. In 1686 Newton presented his 
 Prindpia to the Society, whose clerk, Halley, the astronomer, printed the work. The 
 MS., entirely in Newton's hand, is preserved in the library. 
 
 In 1703 Sir Isaac Newton was elected president. In 1710 the society purchased the 
 house of Dr. Brown, at the top of Crane-court, Fleet-street, " being in the middle of 
 the town and out of noise." This house was built by Wren, after the Great Fire 
 of 1666, upon the site of the mansion of Dr. Nicholas Barbon. This new purchase was 
 considered unfortunate for the society. The house required several hundred pounds' 
 repairs ; the rooms were small and inconvenient compared with those of Gresham Col- 
 lege ; and the removal led to the separation of the Society from the College Professors, 
 after being associated for nearly fifty years. The house in Crane-court fronted a 
 garden, where was a fishpond. There is a small hall on the ground floor, and a passage 
 from the staircase into the garden, fronting which are the meeting-room, 25^ feet by
 
 SAVOY (THE). 721 
 
 16 feet, and a smaller room. In the former apartment, the Society met from 1710 till 
 1782. It is intact, and is very interesting as the room in which Newton sat in the 
 presidential chair, which is preserved. The Library and Museum were removed here : 
 the latter numbered several thousand specimens, the list of which fills twenty pages of 
 Hatton's London, 1708. The house formerly included the present No. 8, in which was 
 kept the Society's library, in cedar-wood cases. In 1782 the Society removed to 
 Somerset House, and sold the Crane-court house to the Scottish Hospital. 
 
 The Royal Society then transferred most of their older curiosities to the British 
 Museum. For their meeting-room they had a noble apartment in the east wing of 
 Somerset House ; it has an enriched ceiling by Sir William Chambers, and here were 
 given the conversazioni of the Presidents, Sir Joseph Banks, Dr. Wollaston, Sir 
 Humphry Davy, Mr. Davies Gilbert, the Earl of Eosse, and Lord Wrottesley. The 
 Duke of Sussex received the Fellows at Kensington Palace; and the Marquis of 
 Northampton at his mansion on the Terrace, Piccadilly. In 1857 the Society removed 
 to Burlington House, which had recently been purchased by the Government, their 
 meeting-room at Somerset House being then given to the Society of Antiquaries, who 
 had hitherto occupied the adjoining rooms. 
 
 In " Burlington's fair palace" a large apartment in the western wing of the man- 
 sion is fitted up as the Royal Society's meeting-room. In the elegant suite of rooms, 
 with ceilings painted by Kicci, is the library ; and in these apartments the President 
 holds his annual conversazioni, at which novelties in science and art are shown. 
 
 The meeting-room at Burlington House is hung round with the Society's pictures, 
 of which Mr. Weld has prepared an interesting catalogue raisonnee, privately printed : 
 they include three portraits of Newton, by Jervas, Marchand, and Vanderbank ; Vis- 
 count Brouncker (first president), by Lely ; Sir Humphry Davy, by Lawrence ; Davies 
 Gilbert and the Marquis of Northampton, by Phillips ; Sir John Pringle, by Reynolds ; 
 Sir Hans Sloane, Lord Somers, Sir J. Williamson, and Sir Christopher Wren, by 
 Kneller ; Dr. Wollaston, by Jackson ; the Duke of Sussex, by Phillips, &c. The 
 Society also possess marble busts of Charles II. and George III., by Nollekens ; Sir 
 Joseph Banks, by Chantrey ; John Dollond, by Garland ; Davies Gilbert, by Westma- 
 cott; Sir Isaac Newton, by Roubiliac ; Laplace; Mrs. Somerville, by Chantrey ; James 
 Watt, after Chantrey ; and Cuvier, in bronze. The Museum is described at page 600. 
 
 Here also are the Exchequer standard yard set off upon the Society's yard : it is of 
 brass, and is of great value since the destruction of the parliamentary standard ; the 
 Society's standard barometer ; also the water-barometer, made by Professor Daniell, 
 whose last official service was the refilling of this instrument, in 1844. 
 
 The Royal Society distribute four gold medals annually the Rurnford, two Royal 
 (value 50 guineas each), and the Copley ; and from the donation-fund men of science 
 are assisted in special researches. 
 
 The Charter-look is bound in crimson velvet, with pold clasps and corners, and inscription-plates 
 1. The Shield of the Society ; 2. Crest : an eagle or, holding a shield with the arms of England. The 
 leaves are fine vellum, and bear, superbly blazoned, the arms of England and the Society ; next, the 
 third charter and statutes (60 pages). Autographs (1st page) : ornamented scroll-border and Royal 
 shield, above the signatures, " CHARLES E., Founder" (written Jan. 9th, 1664-5) ; " JAMBS, Fellow ;" 
 and " GEOEGE RUPERT, Fellow." In the next page are the autographs of various foreign ambassadors ; 
 and the third and succeeding pages contain the signatures of the fellows beneath the obligation which 
 holds each leaf: Clarendon, Boyle, Wallis, Wren, Hooke, Evelyn, Pepys, Norfolk, Flamsteed, and New- 
 ton, are here (the name beneath that of Newton is nearly obliterated by the sad habit of touching). 
 Seventy-one pages are occupied by the autographs of the fellows (including those on the foreign list). 
 Here are the autographs of the successive kings and queens of England, and many sovereigns of foreign 
 countries who have visited England. Queen Victoria has signed her name as patron of the Society; and 
 on the same richly illuminated page are the signatures of Prince Albert and the kings of Prussia and 
 Saxony. Weld's History of the Royal Society, vol. i. p. 177 (abridged). 
 
 See, also, CBANE-COTJBT, p. 296; ROYAL SOCIETY CLUB, p. 256. 
 
 SAVOY (THE). 
 
 ON the spot, south side of the Strand, and which still bears the name of Savoy, but 
 is now mostly occupied by Wellington-street and Lancaster-place, was anciently a 
 noble palace, magnificently rebuilt by Henry, first Duke of Lancaster. Here was con- 
 fined John King of France, taken prisoner by Edward the Black Prince, at Poictiers, 
 
 3 A
 
 722 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 in 1356 ; " and thyder came to se hym the kyng and the quene often tymes, and made 
 hym gret feest and cheere :" he was released in 1360 ; but returning to captivity, died 
 in the Savoy, " his antient prison," in 1364. The demesnes descended to John of 
 Gaunt : here the poet Chaucer was his frequent guest ; some of his poems were written 
 in the Savoy; and Chaucer's Dream allegorises his own marriage with Philippa, a 
 lady of the duchess' household. But Gaunt, a staunch Wickliffite, had his palace attacked 
 by the Londoners in 1377. In 1381 it was burnt by Wat Tyler's rebels : the costly 
 plate and furniture were destroyed or thrown into the Thames, and the great hall and 
 several houses were blown up. Shakspeare lays a scene of his Richard II. in a room 
 of the Savoy, which, however, was then in rains. Thus it lay until 1505, when was 
 commenced building the Hospital of St. John the Baptist, the history of which, and its 
 celebrated Chapel Eoyal, is narrated at pp. 142-144. Here Charles II. established 
 "the French Church in the Savoy;"* and here were churches for the Dutch, High 
 Germans, and Lutherans; the German- Lutheran church has been rebuilt. (SAVOY 
 PRISON, see p. 703.) 
 
 SCHOOLS, PUS LIC. 
 
 THE great Schools of London are as follow : CHARTERHOUSE, described at pp. 86-88; 
 CHRIST'S HOSPITAL (Blue-coat School), described at pp. 95-101. The CITY 
 OF LONDON SCHOOL occupies the site of Honey-lane Market, in the rear of the 
 houses facing Bow Church, and was designed by J. B. Bunning ; the first stone laid 
 by Lord Brougham, Oct. 21, 1835. The style is Elizabethan, with earlier and more 
 enriched principal windows and entrance ; the latter, a rich arched doorway, sur- 
 mounted by a lofty gable pediment, and above, an open gallery of five trefoiled pointed 
 arches on lofty pillars, flanked by buttress-turrets 76^ feet high, is novel and 
 picturesque. The cost of the edifice, about 12,000/., was defrayed by the Corporation 
 of London, who gave the site, which produced a yearly rental of 300Z. The school, 
 for 400 scholars, is partly supported with 900Z. a-year derived from certain lands and 
 tenements bequeathed by John Carpenter, Town-Clerk and " Secretary" of London in 
 the reign of Henry VI. ; and who several times represented the City in Parliament, 
 and was " executor of the will of Richard Whityngton." Carpenter's bequest, 
 originally but 19Z. 10*. per annum, was " for the finding and bringing up of four 
 poor men's children with meat, drink, apparel, learning at the schools, in the univer- 
 sities, &c., until they be preferred, and then others in their places for ever." (Stotv.) 
 The bequest was thus appropriated in 1633, when the boys wore " coats of London 
 russet," with buttons; and they were accustomed from time to time to show their 
 copy-books to the Chamberlain, in proof of the application of the Charity. In 1827 it 
 was extended to the education of four boys, sons of freemen, and nominated by the 
 Lord Mayor, at the Tonbridge Grammar School ; each boy, on quitting, received 100Z., 
 thus increasing the annual expense to about 420Z. In the lapse of nearly four 
 centuries, the value of Carpenter's estates had augmented from 19Z. 10s. to 900Z., or 
 nearly five-and-forty fold, when the school was re-established as above. The form of 
 admission must be signed by a member of the Corporation of London ; the general 
 course of instruction includes the English, French, German, Latin, and Greek 
 languages. The school is mainly indebted to Mr. Alderman Hale (Lord Mayor 1864-5), 
 for its re-establishment and great extension. 
 
 * The first five churches in London appropriated to the Protestants of France were the old Temple 
 in Threadneedle-street, and those of the Savoy, Marylebone, and Castle-street ; and a church in Spital- 
 fields, added upon the application of the consistory to James II. To these were successively added 
 twenty-six others, mostly founded during the reigns of William III., Queen Anne, and George I. : That 
 of Leicester-fields, founded in 1688, of which Saurin was minister; that of Spring-gardens, whose first 
 pastor was Francis Flahaut; that of Glasshouse-square, formed in 1688; Swallow-street, Piccadilly, 
 1692 ; Berwick-street, 1689 ; Charenton, in Newport-market, 1701 ; West-street, Seven Dials, which the 
 refugees called the Pyramid, or the Tremblade; the Carre, Westminster, 1689; the Tabernacle, 1696; 
 Hungerford. 1689, which subsisted until 1832 ; the Temple of Soho, or the Patent, erected in 1689 ; 
 Kyder's-courc, 1700; Martin's-lane, City, 1686; St. James's, 1701; the Artillery, Bishopsgate, 1691; 
 Hoxton, 1748 ; St. John, Shoreditch, 1687; the Patent, in Spitalfields, or the New Patent, 1689; Cris- 
 pin-street, 1693; Peart-street, 1697; Bell-lane, Spitalfields, 1718; Swanfields, 1721; Wheeler-street, 
 Spitalfields, 1703; Petticoat-lane, Spitalfields, 1694; Wapping, 1711; Blackfriars, 1716. Several of 
 these churches ultimately adopted the Anglican ritual. Weiss' Hist. French Protestant Refugees, 
 1854.
 
 SCHOOLS, PUBLIC. 723 
 
 There are eight free foundation scholarships available as exhibitions to the Universities, in addition 
 to the following: the Times' scholarship (see CHEIST'S HOSPITAL, p. 99), three Beaufpy scholarships, the 
 Salomons scholarship, and the Travers' scholarship, and the Tegg scholarship (" Sheriff 's Fine"), varying 1 
 from 357. to 501. a year each; and there are other valuable prizes determinable by examination at 
 Midsummer. 
 
 Upon the great staircase of the school is a statue, by Nixon, of John Carpenter, 
 in the costume of his period ; he bears in his left hand his Liber Albus, a collection of 
 the City laws, customs, and privileges, compiled in 1419, and still preserved in the 
 Corporation archives; translated 1861. The statue is placed upon a pedestal inscribed 
 with a compendious history of the founder, and his many benevolent acts.* . 
 
 MERCERS' SCHOOL, College-hill, Dowgate, was founded and endowed by the 
 Mercers' Company, for seventy scholars of any age or place. It is mentioned as early 
 as 1447, and was then kept at the Hospital of St. Thomas of Aeon ; but was removed 
 to St. Mary Colechurch, next the Mercers' Chapel. After the Great Fire of 1666, 
 the school-house was rebuilt on the west side of the Old Jewry. In 1787 it was 
 removed to 13, Budge-row ; in 1804, to 20, Red Lion-court, Watling-street ; and from 
 thence, in 1808, to premises on College-hill. The present school, designed by George 
 Smith, is an elegant stone structure (adjoining St. Michael's Church), on the site of 
 Whittington's Almshouses, removed to Highgate to make room for it. The education, 
 classical and general, is free ; the boys being selected in turn by the Master and three 
 Wardens of the Mercers' Company. Among the early scholars were Dr. Colet, Sir 
 Thomas Gresham, and Bishop Wren. 
 
 MERCHANT TAYLORS' SCHOOL, Suffolk-lane, Cannon-street, was founded in 1561 by 
 the Merchant Taylors' Company, principally by the gift of 500Z., and other sub- 
 scriptions by members of the Court of Assistants, among whom was Sir Thomas White, 
 sometime Master of the Company, and who had recently founded St. John's College, 
 Oxford. With these funds was purchased part of " the Manor of the Rose," a palace 
 originally built by Sir John Poultney, Knt., five times Lord Mayor of London, in the 
 reign of Edward III. ; the estate successively belonged to the De la Pole or Suffolk 
 family (whence Suffolk-lane), and the Staffords, Dukes of Buckingham : 
 
 "The Duke being at the Rose, within the parish 
 Saint Lawrence Poultney." Shakapeare, Henry VIII, act i. sc. 2. 
 
 Hence, also, " Duck's-Foot-lane" (the Duke's foot-lane, or private way from the 
 garden to the Thames), which is hard by. These ancient premises were destroyed in 
 the Great Fire of 1666, and the present building was erected on the same site, in 
 1675, by Wren : it is a large brick edifice, with pilasters ; the upper school-room, and 
 library adjoining, supported by stone pillars, forming a cloister ; there are also other 
 rooms, and the head master's residence. The boys are admitted at any age, on the 
 nomination of the forty members of the Court of the Company in rotation ; and the 
 scholars may remain until the Monday after St. John the Baptist's Day preceding 
 their nineteenth birth. Hebrew, Greek, and Latin have been taught since the 
 foundation of the school ; mathematics, writing, and arithmetic were added in 1829, 
 and French and modern history in 1846. The boys are entitled to thirty-seven out of 
 the fifty fellowships at St. John's College, Oxford, and several other exhibitions at both 
 the Universities; the election to which takes place annually on St. Barnabas' Day, 
 June 11, when the school prizes are also distributed: there is another speech-day, 
 " Doctors' Day," in December. Plays were formerly performed by the Merchant 
 Taylors' boys, who, in 1664, acted Beaumont and Fletcher's Love's Pilgrimage in the 
 Company's Hall, but under order that this " should bee noe precident for the future." 
 
 Amongst the eminent scholars educated at Merchant Taylors' were, Bishops Andrewes, Dove, and 
 Tomson, three of the translators of the Bible ; Archbishop Juxon, who attended Charles I. to the scaf- 
 fold ; Bishop Hopkins (of Londonderry) ; Archbishops Sir William Dawes, Gilbert, and Boulter ; Bishop 
 Van Mildert, and eleven other prelates ; Titus Gates, who contrived the " Popish Plot ;" James 
 
 * At the expense of John Carpenter was "artificially and richly painted" the Dance of Death upon 
 the north cloister of St. Paul's, and thence called the " Dance at Paul's." It consisted of a long train 
 of all orders of mankind ; each figure having for a partner the spectral Death leading the sepulchral 
 dance, and shaking the last sands from his hour-glass : intended as a moral memorial of the Plague and 
 Famine of 1 138. Among Carpenter's property is a lease of premises in Cornhill, granted by the City, for 
 eighty years, at the annual service of a red rose for the first thirty years, and a yearly rent of 20. for 
 the remainder of the term. 
 
 3 A2
 
 ...CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Whitelock, Justice of the King's Bench ; Bulstrode Whitelock, who wrote his Memorials ; Shirley, 
 the dramatic poet, contemporary with Massinger; Charles Wheatley, the ritualist; Neal, the historian 
 of the Puritans ; Edmund Calamy, and his grandson Edmund, the Nonconformists the former died in 
 1666, from seeing London in ashes after the Great Fire; the great Lord Clive; Dr. Vicesimus Knox, one 
 of the " British Essayists;" Dr. William Lowth, the learned classic and theologian; Nicholas Amhurst^ 
 associated with Bolingbroke and Pulteney in the Craftsman; Charles Mathews, the elder, come. lian; 
 Licut.-Col. Denham, the explorer of central Africa; and J. L. Adolphus. the barrister, who wrote a 
 History of the Reign of George III. Also, Sir John Dodson, Queen's Advocate ; Sir Henry Ellis, and 
 Samuel Birch, of the British Museum; John Gough Nichols, F.S.A. ; Albert Smith, litterateur. 
 
 ST. OLAVE'S AND ST. JOHN'S FBEE GBAMMAE- SCHOOL (originally St. Olave's) was 
 founded by the inhabitants in ^1561 ; and endowed, among other property, with the 
 " Horseydowne" field, at the yearly rent of a red rose, which is paid by the Church- 
 wardens and Overseers previously to the annual commemoration sermon on Nov. 17, 
 by presenting to each of the School Governors a nosegay of fiowcrs with a rose in it. 
 The School originated in the bequest of a wealthy brewer named Leeke, who in 1561 
 left 81. a-year for a free school in St. Savyor's, which bequest, however, was to go to 
 St. Olave's, if within two years of his death a school should be built and established 
 there. St. Olave's contrived to secure the legacy ; and in 1 567 the school was made 
 free, and incorporated by Queen Elizabeth ; charter extended by Charles II., 1674. 
 
 In 1579, Horseydowne (now Horselydown;, was passed over by the parish to the use 
 of the School. It was originally a large grazing field, down, or pasture, for horses and 
 cattle, containing about sixteen acres ; but having long since been covered with houses 
 erected on building leases, which have fallen in, the yearly income of the School from 
 this source is upwards of 2000L The old school, in Churchyard-alley, was taken down 
 about 1830, for making the approaches to the new London Bridge, when a piece of 
 ground in Duke-street was granted by the City of London as a site for a new school ; 
 but this ground was exchanged with the London and Greenwich Railway Company for 
 a site in Bermondsey-street, where the school was rebuilt, and opened Nov. 17, 1835. 
 It was in the latest Tudor or Elizabethan style, of red brick, with an octangular 
 embattled tower, lantern-roofed ; James Field, architect. In 1849, this new building 
 being required for the enlargement of the terminus of the London, Brighton, and 
 South-Coast Railway Company, they paid a considerable sum of money for it, the 
 Governors undertaking to find another site for the school, and rebuild the same ; the 
 tuition being in the meantime carried on in a temporary building in Maze Pond. 
 
 The School is free to " children and younglings," rich or poor, inhabitants of St. Olave's and St. 
 John's parishes, admitted by presentation from the Governors. The Classical School consists of about 
 220 boys ; and the branch or English School, in Magdalen-street, and built in 1824, contains about 260 
 boys. The Governors also award annually four exhibitions at Oxford or Cambridge University, besides 
 apprentice-fees for poor scholars, and funds for other benevolent purposes. Commemoration- day, 
 Nov. 17 (accession of Elizabeth). 
 
 " The seal of the corporation, dated 1576, and distinguished by a rose displayed, the ancient cog- 
 nizance of Southwark, represents the master sitting in a high-backed chair at his desk, on which is a 
 book, and the rod is conspicuously displayed, to the terror of five scholars standing before him." G. B. 
 Corner, F. S. A. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S SCHOOL, east end of St. Paul's Churchyard, was founded in 151 2, by Dr. 
 John Colet, son of Sir Henry Colet, mercer, and lord mayor in 1486 and 1495 ; and it 
 is " hard to say whether he left better lands for the maintenance of his school, or wiser 
 laws for the government thereof" (Fuller). The school is for 153 boys of " every 
 nation, country, and class j" the 153 alluding to the number of fishes taken by St. 
 Peter (John xxi. 2). The education is entirely classical ; the presentations to the 
 school are in the gift of the Master of the Mercers' Company ; and scholars are 
 admitted at fifteen, but eligible at any age. The original school-house was built 
 1508-12 : this was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, but was rebuilt by Wren ; this 
 second school was taken down in 1824, and the present school built of stone from the 
 designs of George Smith : it has a handsome central portico upon a rusticated base, 
 projecting over the street pavement. The original endowment, and for several years 
 the only endowment of the school, was 551. 14?. lO^d., the value of estates in Bucking- 
 hamshire, which now produce 18581. 16s. lO^d. a-year ; and with other property make 
 the present income of the school upwards of 50001. Lilly, the eminent grammarian, 
 the friend of Erasmus and Sir Thomas More, was the first schoolmaster of St. Paul's, 
 and " Lilly's Grammar" is used to this day in the school : the English rudiments were 
 written by Colet, the preface to the first edition by Cardinal Wolsey j the Latin syntax
 
 SCHOOLS, PUBLIC. 725 
 
 chiefly by Erasmus, and the remainder by Lilly. Colet directed that the children should 
 not use tallow but wax candles in the school ; 4d. entrance-money for each was to be given 
 to the poor scholar who swept the school; and the masters were to have livery-gowns 
 " delivered in clothe." The present teachers consist of a high-master, salary 6181. per 
 annum, with spacious house j sur-master, 307/. ; under-master, or ancient chaplain, 
 2271. ; assistant-master, 257Z. : the last master only having no house. The scholars' 
 only expense is for books and wax tapers. There are several very valuable exhibitions, 
 decided at the Apposition, held in the first three days of the fourth week after Easter, 
 when a commemorative oration is delivered by the senior boy, and prizes are presented 
 from the governors. In the time of the founder, the " Apposition dinner''' was " an 
 assembly and a litell dinner, ordayned by the surveyor, not exceedynge the pryce of four 
 nobles." 
 
 In the list of eminent Paulines are Sir Anthony Denny and Sir William Paget, privy councillors 
 to Henry VIII.; John Leland, the antiquary; John Milton, our great epic poet ; Samuel Pepys, the 
 diarist; John Strype, the ecclesiastical historian; Dr. Calamy, the High Churchman; the great Duke 
 of Marlborough: R. W. Ellistou, the comedian: Sir C. Mansfield Clarke, Bart.; Lord Chancellor 
 Truro, &c. 
 
 On Apposition Day, June 4, 1851, were announced these three additional prizes : 1. " The Chancellor's 
 Prize," by Lord Truro, 1000Z. ; the interest to be applied in awarding a gold medal, value ten guineas, 
 and a purse of twenty guineas, or books to that amount, each yearly Apposition, to the author of the 
 best English Essay. 2. " The Milton Prize," by Sir C. M. Clarke, Bart., for English Verses on a sacred 
 subject, annually. 3. "The Thurston Memorial," an annual prize for a copy of Latin Lyrics, given by 
 the parent of a student named Thurston, recently deceased ; the High Master to apply a portion of the 
 endowment to keeping up the youth's gravestone in the Highgate Cemetery. 
 
 ST. SAVIOUB'S GRAMMAB-SCHOOL, Sumner-street, Southwark-Bridge-road, was re- 
 built 1830-9, nearly adjoining St. Peter's Church. The school was founded by 
 parishioners in 1562, and chartered by Queen Elizabeth ; the original endowment being 
 4OL a-year. The scheme, approved by the Court of Chancery in 1850, provides six 
 governors to manage the school property ; the instruction to comprise religion, classical 
 learning, English composition, grammar, arithmetic, history, geography, mathematics, 
 &c., subject to the approval of the Bishop of Winchester ; the head master to be a Master 
 of Arts, and to be appointed in conformity with the statutes of 1614. Small prizes are 
 adjudged yearly, and there are two University exhibitions. Among the olden rules for 
 the choice of a master are the following : 
 
 The master to be " a man of a wise, sociable, loving disposition, not hasty or furious, or of any ill 
 example ; he shall be wise and of good experience, to discern the nature of every several child ; to work 
 upon the disposition for the greatest advantage, benefit, and comfort of the child ; to learn with the 
 love of his book." It was necessary then, as now, to add, " if such an one may be got." The corpora- 
 tion seal represents a pedagogue seated in a chair, with a group of thickly-trussed pupils before him ; 
 date, 1573. 
 
 The original school-house, on the south side of St. Saviour's churchyard, was burned in 
 1676, but was immediately rebuilt : it had a richly-carved doorway-head. This build- 
 ing was taken down after the erection of the new school in Sumner-street. Among the 
 donations is 500Z. by Dr. W. Heberden, the celebrated physician, who is said to have 
 been partly educated in the school. 
 
 WESTMINSTER SCHOOL (St. Peter's College), Dean's-yard, was originally founded 
 by Henry VIII., on the remodelling of the Abbey establishment ; but inadequately 
 supported until 1560, when Elizabeth restored its revenues, and the foundation of an 
 Upper and Lower Master, and 40 scholars, and gave the present statutes. The 
 College consists of a Dean, 12 Prebendaries, 12 Almsmen, and the above 40 
 " Queen's Scholars," with a Master and Usher j maintained, since the Restoration, by 
 the common revenues of St. Peter's Collegiate Church (the Abbey), at 12,0001. a year. 
 These scholars wear a cap and gown ; and there are four " Bishop's boys," educated 
 free, who wear a purple gown, and have 601. annually amongst them. Besides this 
 foundation, a great number of sons of the nobility and gentry are educated here. Of 
 the Queen's Scholars, an examination takes place on the first Tuesday after Rogation 
 Sunday, when four are elected to Trinity College, Cambridge, and four to Christ 
 Church, Oxford ; scholarships about 601. a year. The scholars from the 4th, 5th, and 
 Shell Forms " stand out" in Latin, Greek, and grammatical questionings, to fill up the 
 vacancies on the Wednesday before Ascension Day; when the " Captain of the Election" 
 is chaired round Dean's-yard. There are other funds available to needy scholars.
 
 726 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Any boy may enter at Westminster School ; the entire annual charges (including board and lodging) 
 are from 76 to 83 guineas ; or if he board and lodge at home, 25 guineas. Prom the boarders are elected 
 the Queen's Scholars, who, after four years' residence, have the chance of obtaining good scholarships; 
 they are charged about 401. a year. 
 
 The entrance to the school-court, Little Dean's-yard, is under a lo\v groined gate- 
 way : the school-porch is said to have been designed by Inigo Jones ; and adjoining is 
 the paved racket-court. The venerable School was once the dormitory of the monks : 
 it is 96 feet long and 34 feet in breadth, and has a massive open chestnut roof; at one 
 end is the Head Master's table, and four tiers of forms are ranged along the east and 
 western walls.* The Upper and Lower Schools are divided by a bar, which formerly 
 bore a curtain : over this bar on Shrove Tuesday, at 11 o'clock, the College cook, 
 attended by a verger, having made his obeisance to the Masters, proceeds to toss a 
 pancake into the upper school, once a warning to proceed to dinner in the Hall. 
 Upon the walls are inscribed many great names ; in the library is preserved part of the 
 form on which Dryden once sat, and on which his autograph is cut. 
 
 In the Census Alumnorum, or list of foundation scholars, are Bishops Overall and Ravis, translators 
 of the Bible ; Hakluyt, collector of Voyages ; Gunter, inventor of the Scale ; " Master George Herbert ;" 
 the poets Cowley and Dryden; South; Locke; Bishops Atterbury, Sprat, and Pearce; Prior and 
 Stepney, poets and statesmen; Rowe and " Sweet Vinny Bourne," the poets; Churchill, the satirist; 
 Warren Hastings; Colman the Elder; Everard Home, surgeon; Dr. Drury, of Harrow School, &c. 
 
 Among the other eminent persons educated here were Lord Burghley ; Ben Jonson ; Nat Lee ; Sir 
 Christopher Wren; Jasper Mayne, the poet; Barton Booth, the actor, Blackmore, Browne, Dyer, Ham- 
 mond, Aaron Hill, Cowper, and Southey, the poets ; Home Tooke ; Gibbon, the historian ; Cumberland, 
 the dramatist; Colman the Younger; Sir Francis Burdett; Harcourt, Archbishop of York; the third 
 Marquis of Lansdowne ; Lord John Russell ; the Marquis of Anglesey ; Sir John Cam Hobhouse (Lord 
 Broughton), &c. 
 
 Among the eminent Masters are Camdcn, " the Pausanias of England," who had Ben Jonson for a 
 scholar; and Dr. Busby, who had Dryden, and who, out of the bench of Bishops, taught sixteen. 
 Between the years 1810 and 1856 only seven officers of the British army (royalty excepted) rose to the rank 
 of Field Marshal. Of these seven, five were brought up at Westminster, one at Eton, and one at a private 
 school. The five Westminster boys were Thomas Grosvenor, Henry Paget, John Byng, Stapleton 
 Cotton, and Fitzroy Somerset; the Etonian was Arthur Wellesley; and the seventh, Henry Hardinge. 
 
 The College Hall, originally the Abbot's refectory, was built by Abbot Litlington, 
 temp. Edward III. : its dimensions are 47 feet by 27^ feet in width ; the floor is paved 
 with chequered Turkish marble ; at the south end is a musicians' gallery, now used as 
 a pantry, and behind are butteries and hatches ; upon the north side, upon a dais, is 
 the high table ; those below, of chestnut- wood, are said to have been formed out of the 
 wreck of the Armada; and the roof-timbers spring from carved corbels, with angels 
 bearing shields of the Confessor's and Abbot's arms. A small louvre rises above the 
 central hearth, upon which, in winter, a charcoal fire used to burn until 1850. The 
 Library is a modern Italian room, and contains memorials of the attachment of " West- 
 minsters." The old dormitory, built in 1380, was the granary of the monastery ; and 
 was replaced by the present dormitory in 1722, from the designs of the Earl of Bur- 
 lington : it is 161 feet long by 25 feet broad, and its walls are inscribed with names. 
 Here Latin plays are represented upon the second Thursday in December, and the 
 Monday before and after that day ; those acted of late years were the And/ria, Phor- 
 mio, Eunuchus, and Adelphi, of Terence, with Latin prologue and epilogue.f Warton 
 mentions, " this liberal exercise is yet preserved, and in the spirit of true classical 
 purity, at the College of Westminster." The scenery was designed by Garrick ; the 
 modern dresses formerly used were exchanged for Greek costume in 1839. Boating is 
 a favourite recreation of the Westminsters, who have often contested the championship 
 of the Thames with Eton. On May 4, 1837, the Westminsters won a match at Eton. 
 
 There exists to this day, at Chiswick, the house which was purchased as a retiring-place for the 
 Master and scholars of Westminster : it was for many years well known as " The Chiswick Press," 
 having been long occupied by Mr. Whittingham, and previously by his uncle, who there executed 
 many works of remarkable typographical beauty. The present tenant is bound, as were Messrs. Whit- 
 
 * The basement story beneath the school serves as an undercroft, has semicircular groined Saxon 
 arches, considered to be of the time of Edward the Confessor, whose steward, Hugolin, was buried 
 here. Here is deposited the standard money, which, when there is a new Master of the Mint, is taken 
 out to be carried to the Exchequer, for a Trial of the Pix. The outer doors have seven locks, each lock 
 a different key, and each key a different possessor ; so that the seven holders assemble on the above 
 occasion. The last trial of the Pix was in 1851, on the admission of Sir John F. W. Herschel, Bart., to 
 the Mastership of the Mint, which office was held by Sir Isaac Newton from 1699 until 1728. 
 
 t These performances superseded the old Mysteries and Moralities in the reign of Queen Mary, 
 when, the boy-actors were chiefly the acolytes who served at mass.
 
 SEWAGE OR DRAINAGE. 727 
 
 tingham, to vacate it at a day's notice in the event of its being required for the " Sick scholars of 
 Westminster." A large field at the back of the house, known as " The Home Field," is held upon the 
 same condition. 
 
 (See The Great Schools of England, by Howard Staunton, 1865.) 
 
 SEWAGE OR DRAINAGE. 
 
 A SEWER is, according to Lord Coke, a place where water issues ; or as is said 
 vulgarly, "suer," whence the word suera or sewer. Callis derives it from the 
 Saxon sce-ivceer, that is a sea fence, a protection against sea-tides j but this derivation 
 is ill-founded. The subject is too large for treatment here ; but we may note that 
 the Institution of Civil Engineers recognise the Commissioners of Sewers as first iii- 
 stituted in the reign of Henry VI., when they acted iu every part of the country, 
 having jurisdiction on the borders of tidal rivers. Their duties were to repair sea or 
 river banks, and to keep the main drains and outfalls of level districts in repair, and 
 keep them clear for the passage of water. 
 
 The first general measure was the " Bill of Sewers," in 1531 ; superseded, in 
 1848, by the "Metropolitan Commission of Sewers," whose jurisdiction extended 12 
 miles round St. Paul's, and for whom a new block plan of the metropolis was prepared 
 by the Ordnance Oifice. By this map, the sewerage amounted to upwards of 7 millions 
 of cubic feet on the north side of the Thames, and nearly 2\ millions on the south side. 
 The great receptacle was the Thames ; and of the new system, from 1848 to 1854, 
 there were constructed 80 miles of brick sewers, and 346 miles of pipe-drainage. The 
 oldest and largest sewer is the Fleet Sewer, which drains, or drained, by collateral 
 sewers, an area six or seven times the size of the City of London. (See p. 348.) 
 
 The new Main Drainage, by Mr. Bazalgette, engineer, has been executed by the 
 Metropolitan Board of Works. As much as possible of the sewage is removed by 
 gravitation ; and for this purpose there are three lines of sewers at each side of the 
 Thames, termed respectively High, Middle, and Low Level. The two former dis- 
 charge by gravitation ; but pumping is required for the third; and for this purpose 
 double-acting rotative beam engines, with plunger and ram-pumps, have been adopted. 
 
 The intercepting plan, as its name implies, consists in cutting three great main drains on both sides 
 of the river, and which, instead of running due north and south like the former system, run from west 
 to east. These great main lines intercept and cut off all the existing lines of drains from the river, 
 carry their contents away down below Barking Creek and Erith Marshes, where they are poured into 
 gigantic reservoirs, and afterwards, when deodorized, turned into the river at high tide, and swept away 
 by the ebb almost to sea. Thus, the sewage is not only turned out free from smell, but turned out into 
 a body of water nearly thirty times as great as that into which it used to be poured, and becomes lost 
 in the volume of water which rolls down between the marshes on each side of the river to far below 
 Gravesend. The maximum quantity of sewage to be lifted by the engines at Crossness Point will ordi- 
 narily be about 10,000 cubic feet per minute : but during the night that quantity will be considerably 
 reduced, while, on the other hand, it will be nearly double on occasions of heavy rainfall. These 
 works were publicly opened by the Prince of Wales April 4, 1867. The Sigh Level, on the 
 north side, is about eight miles in length, and runs from Hampstead to Bow, being at its rise 
 4 ft. 6 in. in diameter, and thence increasing in circumference as the waters ot the sewers it inter- 
 cepts require a wider course, to 5 feet, 6 feet, 7 feet, 10 feet 8 inches, 11 feet 6 inches; and at its termi- 
 nation, near.Lea Biver, to 12 ft. 6 in. in diameter. Its minimum fall is 2 feet in the mile; its maximum 
 at the beginning, nearly 60 feet in the mile. It is laid at the depth of from 20 feet to 26 feet below the 
 ground, and drains an area of fourteen square miles. The Middle Level, as being lower in the valley 
 on the slope of which London is built, is laid at a greater depth, varying from 30 feet to 36 feet, and 
 even more, below the surface. This extends from Kensal Green to Bow. The Low Level will extend 
 from Cremorne to Abbey Mills, on the marshes near Stratford, and one portion of it will pass through 
 the Thames Embankment. At Bow, the Low Level waters of the sewer will be raised by engines at a 
 pumping station to the junction of the High and Middle Level ducts, thence descending by their own 
 gravity through these tunnels to the main reservoir and final outfall at Barking. On the south side of 
 the Thames the three great sewer arteries are constructed on similar plans the High Level from Dul- 
 wich to Deptford; the Middle from Clapham to Deptford; and the Low Level from Putney to Deptford. 
 At this point is a pumping station, which raises the water from the low to the high level, whence it 
 flows away through a 10 feet tunnel to Crossness Point. One part of this tunnel, passing under 
 Woolwich, is a mile and a half in length, without a break, and driven at a depth of 80 feet from the 
 surface. At the outfall another pumping station lifts the water to the reservoir. The southern reservoir 
 is only five acres in extent ; that on the north is fourteen. In the reservoir takes place the deodorisation. 
 The two culverts which carry the sewage to the east and west pumping stations are as large almost as 
 railway tunnels, Before the entrance to the pumps are massive iron strainers, which keep out all 
 the coarse refuse brought down the sewer, and which is afterwards dredged up by the filth hoist into 
 the filth chamber, winch is flushed into the river at low water. 
 
 There are now about 1 300 miles of sewers in London, and 82 miles of main inter- 
 cepting sewers. Three hundred and eighteen millions of bricks and 880,000 cubic
 
 728 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 yards of concrete have been consumed, and three and a half million cubic yards of 
 earth have been excavated in the execution of these main drainage works. The total 
 pumping power employed is 2380 nominal horse-power ; and if at full work night 
 and day 44,000 tons of coal per annum would be consumed. The sewage, north 
 of the Thames, at present (1867) amounts to 10,000,000 cubic feet a day, and on 
 the south side to 4,000,000 cubic feet per day ; but provision is made for an antici- 
 pated increase up to 11J millions on the north side, and 5f millions on the south side, 
 in addition to 28| million cubic feet of rainfall per diem on the north side, and 17|- 
 million cubic feet per diem on the south side, or a total of 63 million cubic feet per 
 diem, which is equal to a lake of 482 acres, 3 feet deep, or fifteen times as large as 
 the Serpentine in Hyde Park. The cost of these stupendous works had, in 1867, only 
 amounted to little more than 4,000,0002. 
 
 SHERIFFS. 
 
 THAT London had its Sheriffs, or " Bailiffs," as they were originally styled (or 
 Shire Reve, scygerefa, from the Saxon reafan, " to levy, to seize") prior to the 
 Norman Conquest, is attested by William the Conqueror's second charter being 
 addressed to William the Bishop and Sweyn the Sheriff. The union of the sheriffwick 
 of London and Middlesex took place in the reign of Henry I., of whom the citizens 
 purchased the power of electing the sheriff of Middlesex, " to farm for 300/. :"* the 
 mayor and citizens now hold the office in fee, and appoint two sheriffs for London, 
 which by charters is both a city and a county, though they make but one sheriff jointly 
 for the county of Middlesex. The third charter of King John and the first charter of 
 Henry TIL minutely describe the sheriff's office and duties. Any citizen is eligible, 
 unless he swear himself not worth 15,000?. ; and no alderman can be chosen lord mayor 
 unless he has served as sheriff. A list of citizens is nominated on Midsummer-day, 
 when two are elected by the Livery in Common Hall. Much of the pomp and circum- 
 stance of past times incident to the ceremony are still maintained, and there is a good 
 deal about it that is sentimental and picturesque. The floor of the platform, as of old, 
 is still strewn over with cut flowers and green herbs, mint and thyme prevailing, and 
 each high City functionary, from the chief magistrate downwards, carries a bouquet of 
 flowers ; the persons chosen are obliged to serve, under a penalty of 400Z. and 20 marks; 
 and the fines paid within the present century have exceeded 70,OOOZ. In 1734 there 
 were fined 35 persons, and 11 excused. The fine is 413Z. 6s. 8d., with an additional 
 2001. if the lesser fine is not paid within a certain time. In 1806 the fines amounted 
 to 10,306Z. 13s. 4d., and to 9466Z. 13s. 4d. in the year 1815. But the election is 
 sometimes contested, as in 1830, when there were six candidates. The sheriffs-elect 
 were formerly presented for approbation to the Cursitor Baron of Exchequer, as the 
 representative of the Sovereign : that being found most inconvenient, a short Act of 
 Parliament was passed to do away with the ceremony of presentation, but reserving 
 all the other ancient ceremonies, appointing the Barons, or their chief officer, the 
 Queen's Remembrancer, to see the ceremony performed, on the morrow of St. Michael, 
 as described at pp. 508-509. The numerous trusts of the sheriffs are mostly performed 
 by the under-sheriffs, but the State-duties by the sheriffs themselves. They receive 
 from the City about 1000Z. during their year of office ; but the State and hospitality 
 they are expected to maintain usually cost each sheriff upwards of 2000 guineas : for 
 State-chariot, horses, and State-liveries ; the inauguration dinner. The mayor's ban- 
 quet, at Guildhall, on the 9th of each November, throws on the lord mayor and corpo- 
 ration but one-third of its cost; the remaining two-thirds devolve on the unhappy 
 sheriffs, although but eight of their private friends can be invited to the feast. The cost 
 of this is generally 8001. to each of the sheriffs, being 200^. for each of their guests : 
 the Old Bailey dinners (see p. 506) ; besides meat at the City prisons, which the sheriffs 
 
 * This fee-farm rent has Ipng since been given away by the Crown, is now private property, and is 
 paid half-yearly by the sheriff. In the charters granted to the City of London by Henry II., Eichard I., 
 and in the first charter of King John, no mention whatever is made of the sheriftwick. There are 
 many City ordinances for the office of sheriff, disobedience to which is in some cases marked by dis- 
 missal. A History of the Sheriffdom was published in 1723.
 
 SHOREDITCH. 729 
 
 superintend. The sheriffs are always sworn in on the eve of Michaelmas-day, upon 
 which the Livery-men meet at Guildhall to elect the Lord Mayor for the ensuing year, 
 and their first duty is to take part in that ceremony. The first Jew sheriff was Mr. 
 David (now Alderman) Salomons, 1835 ; and the first Roman Catholic sheriff was Mr. 
 Richard Swift, M.P., 1851 : the latter was attended in State by a Romish priest as his 
 chaplain. A factious sheriff (Slingsby Bethel) is thus commemorated, as Shimei, by 
 Dryden : 
 
 " No Eechabite more shunn'd the fumes of wine ; 
 
 Chaste were his cellars, and his shrieval board 
 
 The grossness of a City feast abhorr*d ; 
 
 His cooks, with long disuse, their trade forgot 
 
 Cool was his kitchen, though his brains were hot." 
 
 Absalom and Achitophel. 
 
 One of the oldest shrievalty customs was that of the Lord Mayor drinking to persons 
 for nomination to the office : it was revived in 1682, at the request of Charles II., 
 with a factious object ; when Sheriffs Shute and Pilkington were committed by the 
 King to the Tower, upon a false charge of riot. In 1685, Alderman and Sheriff Cor- 
 nish, being implicated in the Rye-house Plot, was hanged, drawn, and quartered at 
 the end of King-street, Cheapside, fronting his own house. 
 
 Sheriff Hoare has left a journal of his shrievalty, in 1740-41, in his own handwriting : 
 describing his investiture in his scarlet gown, the gold chain taken off the former 
 sheriff and put on him ; the delivery of the prisoners and prison-keys, and the keeper's 
 treat of sack and walnuts, Sept. 28th ; how the sheriffs, April 6tb, entertained the 
 Exchequer officers with 52 calves'-heads, dressed in different manners ; how, Sept. 2nd 
 (anniversary of the Fire of London), the sheriffs went to St. Paul's, in their " black 
 gowns, and no chains, and heard a sermon j" how, Sept. 8th, they went with the lord 
 mayor to proclaim Southwark Pair ; the Christ's Hospital treat of sweet cakes and 
 burnt toine, on St. Matthew's day (Sept. 21st) ; and sack and walnuts on Sept. 28th, 
 when the sheriff returned home, to his " great consolation and comfort." In the per- 
 mission granted to sheriffs to keep condemned prisoners in the Sheriffs' own houses, as 
 well as in the gaols, is thought to be traceable the origin of the " Sponging-house." 
 
 The Sheriffs' Fund was established by Sir Richard Phillips, sheriff 1807-8, who, in his Letter to the 
 Livery of London, tells us that, after a few visits to Newgate, he discovered so many well-founded 
 claims of a pecuniary nature on his charity, that it became impossible to meet a tenth part of them. 
 A Sheriff's Fund was therefore publicly announced, and the design was generally applauded, if not 
 generally aided ; though the Sheriff collected, in the course of the year, about 5001., and assisted and 
 relieved many thousands of distressed individuals and their families, a trifling balance was handed over 
 to his successors in the Shrievalty. The Sheriffs' Fund, in 1867, amounted to nearly 13,00<M. 
 
 In 1840, Sheriffs Evans and Wheelton were imprisoned by the House of Commons 
 at Westminster, for an alleged breach of privilege. 
 
 SSOREDITCH, 
 
 A N ancient manor and parish, extending from Norton Folgate to Old-street, and from 
 -*- part of Finsbury to Bethnal-green. It was originally a village on the Roman 
 military highway, called by the Saxons Eald (i.e., Old) Street. Stow declares it to have 
 been called Soersditch more than 400 years before his time : and Weever states it to 
 have been named from Sir John de Soerdich, lord of the manor temp. Edward III.,* 
 and who was with that king in his wars with France. The legend of its being called after 
 Jane Shore dying in a ditch in its neighbourhood, is a popular error, traceable to a 
 black-letter ballad in the Pepys Collection, entitled, The Woful Lamentation of Jane 
 Shore, a Goldsmith's Wife in London, some time King Edward IV. his Concubine 
 
 " I could not get one bit of bread, 
 Whereby my hunger might be fed; 
 Nor drink, but such as channels yield, 
 Or stinking ditches in the field. 
 Thus, weary of my life at lengthe, 
 I yielded up my vital strength 
 
 * The same family of Soerdich, or Shordich, it is believed, possessed the manor of Ickenham, 
 near Uxbridge, and resided at Ickenham Hall, from the reign of Edward III. to our own time. The 
 last of this family, Paul Ricaut Shordiche, civil engineer, grandson of Michael Shordiche, of Ickenham 
 Manor, died at Antigua, July 13, 1865.
 
 730 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Within a ditch of loathsome scent, 
 Where carrion dogs did much frequent : 
 The which now, since my dying daye, 
 Is Shoreditch call'd, as writers saye." 
 
 But this ballad is not older than the middle of the 17th century ; and no mention is 
 made of Jane so dying in a ballad by Th. Churchyard, dated 1587. Dr. Percy erro- 
 neously refers Shoreditch to " its being a common sewer, vulgarly shore, or drain." 
 It is sometimes called Sorditch, which is the most correct, according to the above 
 explanation. An archer of this parish, named Barlo, was styled " Duke of Shoreditch " 
 by Henry VIII., for having outshot his competitors in a shooting match at Windsor ; 
 and the Captain of the Company of Archers of London was long after styled " Duke 
 of Shoreditch." In the Beaufoy Collection are four Shoreditch tokens, one with figures 
 of Edward IV. and his mistress ; and the sign of Jane Shore is extant at a public- 
 house in the High-street. 
 
 Shoreditch is the scene of another apocryphal tragedy ; the old ballad laying here 
 the locus in quo of George Barnwell's dissipation, where lived Mrs. Millwood, who led 
 him astray : 
 
 " George Barnwell, then quoth she, 
 
 Do thou to Shoreditch come, 
 And ask for Mrs. Millwood's house, 
 Next door unto the Gun." 
 
 Now, Shoreditch was formerly notorious for the easy character of its women ; and to 
 die in Shoreditch was not a mere metaphorical term for dying in a sewer. (Cunning- 
 ham). See the story in Romance of London, vol. i. pp. 314 324. James Smith 
 wrote the ballad of " George Barnwell travestie ;" and Thackeray a famous caricature 
 romance, entitled " George de Barnwell." 
 
 Holywell Lane and Mount (" heightening of the ground for garden-plots," Stow), 
 and Holywell Row, in Shoreditch, are named from a holy well there ; and a house of 
 Benedictine nuns of that name, founded by a Bishop of London, and rebuilt, with the 
 Church of St. John and the chapel, by Sir Thomas Lovel, of Lincoln's Inn, Treasurer 
 of the Household to King Henry VII., K.G., &c. 
 
 Sir Thomas Lovel was buried there June 8, 1525, "in a tombe of whyte marbell, on the southe syde 
 of the quyre of the saide churche." (Book of the College of Arms.) At his funeral there were present 
 the Bishop of London, Lord St. John, Sir Eichard Wyngfield, and many others, nobles and gentlemen. 
 The Abbot of Waltham, the Prior of St. Mary Spital, four orders of friars, the Mayor and all the alder- 
 men of London, gentlemen of the Inns of Court, the Lord Steward, and all the clerks of London attended. 
 Part of the Chapel remains under the floor of the Old T&ng John, and the stone doorway into the porter's 
 lodge of the Priory still exists. (Notes and Queries, No. 179.) Shoreditch Cross is believed to have 
 stood on the west side of Kingsland-road, and to have been demolished in 1642. 
 
 St. Leonard's Church, at the north end of Shoreditch, is described at p. 173. Near 
 the altar is a tablet to the memory of a descendant of the royal house of Hungary ; 
 and in the crypt is the noble altar-tomb of a descendant of the great John Corvinus 
 Huniades, whose son was elected King of Hungary. In the belfry are recorded several 
 feats of bell-ringing, including 16 March, 1777, when the " College Youths" performed 
 11,000 changes in eight hours, adding that their names would be handed down to 
 posterity, "insaturated with glory." In the churchyard is buried Gardner, the 
 worm destroying doctor of Long Acre ; his tombstone inscribed, " Dr. John 
 Gardner's (intended) last and best bed-room." In 1811, a writ of arrest was served 
 by a sheriff's officer upon a dead body, as it was being conveyed to this churchyard j 
 which occasioned Lord Ellenborougb to declare the process altogether illegal. In St. 
 Leonard's Church is some painted glass from one of the Priory windows. " Neare 
 thereunto are builded two publique houses for the acting and shewe of comedies, 
 tragedies, and histories, for recreation. Thereof one is called the Courtain, the other 
 the Theatre, both standing on the south-west toward the field." (Stow, 1st edit, 
 p. 349.) Hence the Curtain Theatre, built in Holy well-lane, and Curtain-road; 
 in the latter, at the Slue Last public-house, porter is traditionally said to have been 
 first sold, about 1730. 
 
 A Public Hall has been built for St. Leonard's, facing Old-street, of Corinthian and 
 Doric architecture j in the basement are the parochial offices ; and on the first-floor 
 the Great Hall, to hold 1800 persons. In 1854 were erected almshouses in Brunswick- 
 fitreet, Hackney-road, for twenty aged women of the parish; the architecture is
 
 8MITHFIELD. 731 
 
 Jacobean. The Great Eastern Railway crosses the main street, and near the station 
 is the first of the buildings erected by the trustees to whom the disposal of Mr. Pea- 
 body's munificent gift to the City of London was referred. Hard by is Colombia 
 Market, erected at the expense of Miss Burdett Coutts (see p. 558). Philanthropy 
 has long been at work here, but much remains to be done. 
 
 The people of St. Philip's, Shoreditch, are types of a class which is no small one the quiet poor, the 
 people who struggle earnestly to obtain subsistence out of the workhouse, who abstain from beggary, 
 and who are not brought under our notice by their crimes. This district of Bethnal-green seems to 
 consist almost wholly of such persons. A small space of ground is there covered with about fourteen 
 thousand of them, weavers, costermongers, and others, each family lodged in a single room. The mass 
 ol this population subsist upon earnings that average little more than threepence a-day, for the main- 
 tenance of each body, great and small, with shelter, food, and cjothing. They are not squalid or 
 vicious, they will work their hearts away for the most miserable hire, they work and help each other, 
 they work and grieve and die. In this one district of St. Philip's, Shoreditch, which is but a little 
 island in the world of sorrow, there is work for thousands of warm-hearted people, who with scanty aid 
 may do great service. Examiner, abridged. 
 
 SKINNER- STREET AND SNOW-HILL. 
 
 OKINNER-STREET, extending from Newgate-street to Holborn-hill, was built 
 ^ about 1802, to avoid the circuit of Snow-hill, also called Snor, Snore, and Sorr- 
 Lillj the projector of the improvement was Alderman Skinner. Here was a large 
 seven-storied house, burnt down in 1813, estimated loss 25,QOO. At No. 41, William 
 Godwin, author of Caleb Williams kept a bookseller's shop, and published his juvenile 
 works under the name of Edward Baldwin : over his shop-door is an artificial stone 
 relief of J2sop narrating his tables to children. Opposite No. 58, in 1817, was hung 
 Cashman the sailor, who had joined a mob in plundering the gunsmith's shop at the 
 above house. 
 
 In a shop-window on Snow-hill, Vandyke saw the picture by Dobson, which led him 
 to seek out the painter in a garret, and recommend him to Charles I. At the sign of 
 the Star, on Snow-hill, at the house of his friend Mr. Strudwick, a grocer, died 
 12th August, 1688, John Bunyan, author of the Pilgrim's Progress, and was buried 
 in that friend's vault in Bunhill-fields burial-ground. At No. 37, King-street, Snow- 
 iiill, was formerly the Ladies' Charity . School, which was established in 1702, and 
 remained in the parish 145 years. Mrs. Thrale and Dr. Johnson were subscribers to 
 this school ; and Johnson drew from it his story of Betty Broom, in The Idler. In 
 the school minutes, 1763, the ladies of the committee censured the schoolmistress for 
 listening to the story of the Cock -lane Ghost, and " desired her to keep her belief in 
 the article to herself." The School-house is No. 30, John-street, Bedford-row. Great 
 part of Skinner-street has been taken down in clearances for the Holborn- valley 
 and the Metropolitan Railway works. 
 
 SMITSFIELD, 
 
 A NCIENTLY just outside the City wall, was the great public walk of the citizens, 
 -tl- their race-course, and live market (see p. 561 ; vulgo, Smiffel). It was a 
 great field for quintain-matches, and was called " Ruffians' Hall," for its frays and 
 common fighting with sword and buckler, superseded by the deadly fight of rapier and 
 dagger. Ben Jonson, in his Bartholomew Fair, speaks of " the sword and buckler 
 age in Smithfield " having but recently passed away ; and in the Two Angry Women 
 of Abingdon, 1599, complaint is made that "the sword and buckler fight begins to 
 grow out of use." The town-green had its clump of trees, " the Elms," which was 
 the place of public execution until the middle of the 13th century, when it was 
 removed to Tyburn. At the Elms suffered William Fitzosbert (Longbeard) ; here 
 " Mortimer was executed, and let hang two days and two nights, to be seen of the 
 people " and here perished the patriot Wallace, on St. Bartholomew's even, 1305 
 the place of blood being in Cow-lane, close to the end of St. John's-court. At Smith- 
 field, on Saturday, June 15th, 1381, Richard II. met Wat Tyler and his " shoeless 
 ribalds," the King towards the east, near St. Bartholomew's Priory, and the Commons 
 towards the west; when Tyler, seizing the hoy -king's horse, was stabbed by Walworth,
 
 732 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 mayor of London ; and a few days after, Jack Straw, the second rebel in command, 
 was hanged at the Elms. But Smithfield has its sunnier epoch of jousts, tournaments, 
 and feats of arms. Here Edward III. commemorated the brilliant realities of Cressy 
 and Poictiers ; and here the doting monarch feasted Alice Pierce (" the lady of the 
 sun") with seven days' chivalric sports. Richard II. held "a great justing" here in 
 1390, when was " given first the badge of the White Hart, with golden chains and 
 crowns ;" and here, in 1396, the king celebrated his marriage by three days' tourna- 
 ment. In 1393 " certain lords of Scotland came into England, to get worship by 
 force of arms in Smithfield" (Froissarf). This was likewise the scene of ordeal com- 
 bats, when the place of battle was strewed with rushes : here was fought the whimsical 
 combat of Horner and Peter, as told by Holinshed, and dramatized by Shakspeare 
 (King Henry VI., Part II.) 
 
 The reality is thus recorded in the Grey Friars' Chronicle, Hen. VI. : " xxv A 0- Thys yere was a 
 fyghtynpe in Smythfelde betwene ane armerar of fletstret and his servant, for worddes agenst the kynge, 
 whereof hys servant asseld hym; and the servant slew the master in the felde." 
 
 In the play of Henry VI. is the king's sentence : 
 
 " The witch in Smithfield shall be burn'd to ashes." 
 
 The martyrology of Smithfield forms a still more terrible page of its history. Here 
 were burnt the martyrs, from John Rogers, " the protomartyr of the Marian persecu- 
 tion," in 1555, to Bartholomew Leggatt, in 1611, the last martyr who suffered at the 
 stake in England. Of the 277 persons burnt for heresy in the reign of Mary, the 
 great majority suffered in Smithfield : a large gas-light (in the middle of the pens) 
 denoted the reputed spot ; but the discovery in 1849 of some blackened stones, ashes, 
 and charred human bones, at 3 feet from the surface, opposite the gateway of St. 
 Bartholomew's Church, induces the belief that here was the great Tiearth of the bigot 
 fires. Charred human bones and ashes were also discovered, at 5 feet from the surface, 
 at the west end of Long-lane, in July, 1854. In Smithfield, likewise, poisoners were 
 " boiled to death" by statute, in the reign of Henry VIII. 
 
 " xiij A 0> Thys yere was a man soddyne in a cautherne (boiled in a cauldron) in Smythfelde, and 
 lett up and downe dyvers tymes tyll he was dede, for because he wold a poyssynd dyvers persons." 
 
 "xxij A ' This yere was a coke boylyd in a cauderne in Smythfeld, for he wolde a powsynd the 
 bishoppe of Rochester, Fycher, with dyvers of hys servanttes ; and he was lockyd in a chayre, and pullyd 
 up and downe with a grybbyt, at dyvers tymes, till he was dede." 
 
 xxxiij A ' The x day of March was a mayde boyllyd in Smythfelde, for poysyng of dyvers persons." 
 Chronicle of the Orey Friars of London, edited by J. Gough Nichols, F.S.A. Printed for the Camden 
 Society, 1852. 
 
 From this Chronicle we learn that the gallows was " set up at sent Bartylmewys gate." 
 The entries of burnings for " errysee " are also very numerous. Burning for other 
 crimes was, however, continued : Evelyn records, " 1652, May 10. Passing by Smith- 
 field, I saw a miserable creature burning who had murdered her husband." 
 
 In Stow's time, the encroachments by " divers fair inns, and other buildings," had 
 left but a small portion of Smithfield for the old uses. After the Great Fire, the 
 houseless people were sheltered here in huts. Over against Pie-corner is Cock-lane : 
 Goldsmith's pamphlet respecting the Cock-lane ghost was first included in his collected 
 Works edited by Peter Cunningham, F.S.A., 1854. This ancient locality has been 
 much disturbed by the removal of the old market, and by railway encroachments. 
 
 BARTHOLOMEW FAIE, held in Smithfield from the reign of Henry I. to our own 
 time, is described at p. 32-36. The Fair was finally abolished in 1853, The 
 Churches of St. Bartholomew and St. Bartholomew-the-Less are noticed at pp. 152, 153. 
 
 SMITHFIELD, EAST, 
 
 "BETWEEN Little Tower-hill and Ratcliff-highway, was, according to Stow, before 
 L) the reign of King Stephen, made a vineyard by the Constables of the Tower, 
 being forcibly taken by them from the Priory of the Holy Trinity, within Aldgate. 
 Here Edward III. founded New Abbey, in 1359, called the White Order, and named 
 Eastminster. Spenser the poet is said to have been born in East Smithfield ; and here, 
 24th July, 1629, Charles I. killed a stag, which he had hunted from Wanstead, in 
 Essex. (Stoiv.) A plan of East Smithfield in Elizabeth's reign shows the site of an 
 ancient stone cross, and the stocks and cage.
 
 SOCIETY OF ARTS. 733 
 
 SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES. 
 
 THE early history of this Society, from 1707, when the few members first met, 
 " upon pain of forfeiture of sixpence," is noted at page 530 : the plan was drawn 
 up by Humphrey Wanley ; and the minutes date from Jan. 1, 1718, when the 
 members brought to the weekly meetings, coins, medals, seals, intaglios, cameos, 
 manuscripts, records, rolls, genealogies, pictures, drawings, &c. The first president 
 was Martin Folkes, 1751. The Society occupy apartments in Somerset House, formerly 
 the Royal Society's. The president is Earl Stanhope, the accomplished historian. 
 Terms of admission reduced in 1853 from eight to five guineas entrance fee ; and from 
 four to two guineas annual subscription. The strict form of admission is by the 
 president or presiding officer placing upon his head a cocked-hat ; in one hand he holds 
 the Society's iron gilt mace, and with the other hand he welcomes the new Fellow, 
 saying : " By the authority and in the name of the Society of Antiquaries of London, I 
 admit you a Fellow thereof." To the names of the members are usually appended 
 F.S.A. The Obligation Book contains the signatures of the leading antiquaries, 
 Fellows of the Society. The Society possess a LIBRARY, noticed at page 516 ; and a 
 MUSEUM, see page 590. A synopsis of the contents of the Museum is presented to the 
 Fellows. The old paintings and memorials in the Meeting-room are curious. 
 
 The Society's Transactions (Archaologia), published annually, date from 1770. Among their other 
 publications are Vetuxta Monumenta, vol. vi., illustrating the Baieux tapestry; Fplkes's Tables of 
 English Silver and Gold Coins ; Wardrobe-book of Edward I. ; Ordinances and Regulations of the Royal 
 Households, from Edward III. to William and Mary ; Roy's Military Antiquities of the Romans in 
 Britain ; Account of the Collegiate Chapel of St. Stephen, at Westminster ; Accounts of the Cathedrals 
 of Exeter, Durham, and Gloucester, and of Bath and St. Alban's Abbey Churches ; Csedmon's Metrical 
 Paraphrase of the Holy Scriptures in Anglo-Saxon. The Society have also published large historical 
 prints of the Field of the Cloth-of-Gold, 1520; Francis I.'s attempt to invade England, 1545; the Pro- 
 cession of King Edward VI. from the Tower to Westminster; Aggas's Plan of London, &c. 
 
 SOCIETY OF AETS. 
 
 " riRHE Society for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce," 
 J- originated with William Shipley, a drawing-master, and brother to the Dean of 
 St. Asaph. With the concurrence of Jacob Viscount Folkestone, Robert Lord Romney, 
 and Dr. Maddox, Bishop of Worcester, the Society first met, March 29, 1754, at 
 Rawthmell's Coffee-house, Henrietta-street, Covent-garden : Shipley acting as Secretary; 
 and the plan of the Society being drawn up by William Baker, the microscopist. 
 Oliver Goldsmith took great interest in the early proceedings of the Society, in a 
 magazine published by Newbery ; and the Doctor was a candidate for the secretary- 
 ship. Much attention was then bestowed upon " the polite arts :" among the first 
 objects was the offer of premiums for drawings by girls and boys under 16 years of 
 age. The Society next met, 1754-5, in apartments over a circulating-library in Crane- 
 court, Fleet-street ; next in Craig's-court, Charing-cross ; at the corner of Castle- 
 court, Strand; in 1759 they removed to a house (afterwards Dibdin's Sans Souci) 
 opposite Beaufort-buildings ; and next to their new house in John-street, Adelphi, in 
 1774. Presidents: Viscount Folkestone, 1755-1761; Lord Rodney, 1761-1793; 
 the Duke of Norfolk, 1793-1815 ; the Duke of Sussex, 1815-1843 ; Prince Albert, 
 1843-1861 ; and the present President, the Prince of Wales. 
 
 Early Awards of the Society. The first prize to Richard Cosway, then 15. In 1758, Bacon, the 
 sculptor, for a small figure of Peace ; and he gained 9 other high prizes ; 1761, Nollekens, for an alto- 
 relievo of Jephtha's Vow, and in 1771 for a more important piece of sculpture; in 1768, Flaxman, and 
 in 1771 the Society's Gold Medal. Lawrence, when 13, received a silver-gilt palette and 5 guineas for 
 his crayon-drawing of the Transfiguration. In 1807, to Sir William Boss, then 12, a siver-gilt palette 
 for a drawing of Wat Tyler ; in 1810, a similar reward to Sir Edwin Landseer for an etching ; and to 
 B. Wyon, in 1818, the Gold Medal for a medal die. Among the other recipients of prizes may be named 
 Allan Cunningham, Mulready, and Millais. 
 
 The first public Exhibition of the works of British Artists was held at the Society's 
 house in the Strand, in 1760 : hence originated the Royal Academy, who, in 1776, with 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds at their head, refusing to paint the Society's Great Council-room 
 at the Adelphi, next year Barry, who had signed the refusal with the rest, volunteered
 
 734 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 to decorate the room without any remuneration at all : the pictures are described at 
 page 603 : the room is 47 feet in length, 42 feet in breadth, and 40 in height. Among 
 the prime objects of the Society were the application of Art to the improvement 
 of Design in Manufactures, now developed in " Art Manufactures ;" the improvement of 
 Agriculture and Horticulture ; and in 1783 a reward was offered for a reaping-machine. 
 The Society has distributed more than 100,000?. in premiums and bounties. The 
 growth of forest-trees was one of its early objects of encouragement ; and among the 
 recipients of its Gold Medal (designed by Flaxman) were the Dukes of Bedford and 
 Beaufort, the Earls of Winterton, Upper Ossory, and Mansfield; and Dr. Watson, 
 Bishop of Llandaff. Then came Agriculture, Chemistry, Manufactures, and Mechanics, 
 including tapestry and the imitation of Turkey carpets, Marseilles and India quilting, 
 spinning and lace-making, improved paper, catgut for musical instruments ; straw bon- 
 nets and artificial flowers. Among the Society's colonial objects were the manufacture 
 of potash and pearlash, the culture of the vine, the growth of silk-worms, indigo, and 
 vegetable oils. Very many rewards have been given by the Society to poor Bethnal- 
 green and Spitalfields weavers for useful inventions in their manufacture. 
 
 The Society's LIBEAET is described at page 525 ; and its MUSEUM of Models, and 
 the Pictures and Sculpture, at pp. 603. Dr. Johnson says of Barry's paintings, " There 
 is a grasp of mind there which you will find nowhere else." The Society held the first 
 regular Exhibition of Useful Inventions in 1761, when a Mr. Bailey explained the seve- 
 ral articles to the visitors. The Premiums are annually presented in the Great Room, 
 where have been held Exhibitions of Decorative Art unequalled in this country. The 
 Society chiefly prepared the public mind for the Great Exhibition of 1851 ; and here 
 Mr. Paxton first developed his plan of its stupendous building, Nov. 13, 1850. Annual 
 Subscription to the Society, two guineas. Among the Special Prizes is the bequest of 
 Dr. Svviney of 100 guineas, in a Silver Cup of the same value, to be given every fifth' 
 year for the best treatise on Jurisprudence ; the Cup, designed by D. Maclise, R.A., is 
 surmounted by figures of Justice, Vengeance, and Mercy ; in the centre is a niello of a 
 hall of justice; and at the base are four kneeling slaves. The Centenary of the Society 
 of Arts was celebrated July, 1854, by a banquet in the Crystal Palace, Sydenham. 
 
 For many years the office of Secretary was filled by Arthur Aikin, eldest son of Dr. Aikin, the friend 
 of John Howard, and brother of Lucy Aikin ; and who published a Manual of Mineralogy, Arts and 
 Manufactures, and a Chemical Dictionary. He died in 1854, aged 80. Among the Society's Vice- 
 Presidents was Thomas Hope, author of some tasteful works on costume, furniture, and decoration; 
 and whose house in Duchess-street was a model of artistic design (described at page 551) : here was a 
 piece of carved furniture, which, many years after it was executed, was specially noticed by Sir Francis 
 Chantrey : on being asked the reason, he replied, " That was my first work." 
 
 SOHO, 
 
 A DISTRICT north-east of Piccadily, extending to Oxford-street. Mr. Cunningham has 
 -* found the name " Soho" in the rate-books of St. Martin's as early as the year 1632 ; 
 thus invalidating the tradition by Pegge and Pennant, that Soho* being the watchword 
 at the battle of Sedgemoor, in 1685, it was given to King-square, in memory of the Duke 
 of Monmouth, whose mansion was upon the south side. The boundaries of Soho are 
 Oxford-street, north j Crown-street, east ; King-street, south ; and Wardour-street and 
 Princes-street, west. Soho-square and the adjoining fields passed by royal grants to 
 the Earl of St. Albans, the Duke and Duchess of Monmouth, and the Earl of Portland; 
 and the streets are named from this appropriation, or from their builders. The houses 
 in Soho-square and the streets adjoining are remarkably well built, and were tenanted 
 by nobility and gentry until our time. Carlisle Souse and Street, named from 
 having been the residence of the Earls of Carlisle, are described at p. 446 : here lived Bach 
 and Abel, the musical composers. Greek-street and Church-street are named from the 
 Greek Church in Crown-street. In Greek-street the elder Wedgwood had warerooms 
 before he removed to St. James's ; and Mr. (after Sir Thomas) Lawrence, R.A., was 
 living here in 1806. In Wardour-street (Old Soho) French Protestants were early 
 
 * "Soho is the same as '.pray stop'" (Booth's Analytical Diet.): hence it may have been applied, in 
 the above instance, to the extension of building in this direction, more especially as it was prohibited 
 by a proclamation in 1671.
 
 SOMERSET ROUSE, OLD. 735 
 
 settlers, and probably brought the trade in foreign art. Berwick-street is described by 
 Hatton (1708) as " a kind of row ; the fronts of the houses resting on columns, make a 
 small piazza." In Dean-street lived Sir James Thornhill, at No. 75, which has the 
 staircase-walls of his painting; and at No. 33 died young, in 1819, Harlowe, the 
 painter of the Trial of Queen Katharine. Gerard-street is named from Gerard, Earl 
 of Macclesfield, the owner of the site, formerly " the Military Garden" of Henry Prince 
 of Wales, eldest son of James I. (see p. 458) ; and Princes-street is built upon part of 
 the ground : here, in 1718, lived HaUey the astronomer. The landlord's title is also 
 preserved in Macclesjield-street. In Gerard House lived the profligate Lord Mohun. 
 At No. 43, Gerard- street, John Dry den resided with his wife, Lady Elizabeth Howard : 
 his study was the front parlour ; Dryden died here in 1700. In Gerard-street lived 
 Edmund Burke at the time of Warren Hastings' trial; and here at the Turk's Head, 
 (removed from Greek-street, where met the Loyal Association of 1745), Johnson, Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds, and Burke founded the Literary Club in 1764 (see p. 251). Here a 
 Society of Artists met in 1753 ; and another Society, including West, Wilson, Wilton, 
 Chambers, Sandby, &c., who, from the Turk's Head, petitioned George III. to patronize 
 a Royal Academy of Art. In Gerard-street was formerly the chief receiving-house of 
 the Twopenny Post. Compton-street was built in the reign of Charles II., by Sir 
 Francis Compton; and New Compton-street was first named Stiddolph-street, after 
 Sir Richard Stiddolph, the owner of the land. Dr. Rimbault, in Notes and Queries, 
 No. 15. (See SQTTABES : Soho.) 
 
 The Lion Brewery, in Spho, was formerly the property of the uncle of Sir Richard Phillips, who was 
 brought up in this establishment, to which he was heir. This prospective fortune did not, however, 
 overcome his distaste for the business of a brewer ; and a passion for literature, particularly mathe- 
 matics and natural philosophy, led him, at the age of 17, to detach himself from his family connexions, 
 and seek his own chance of life. 
 
 SOMERSET HOUSE, OLD, 
 
 OR, SOMERSET- PLACE, on the north side of the Strand, was commenced building 
 about 1547, by the Protector Somerset, maternal uncle of Edward VI. To 
 obtain space and materials, he demolished Strand or Chester's Inn, and the episcopal 
 houses of Lichfield, Coventry, Worcester, and Llandaff, besides the church and tower 
 of St. John of Jerusalem ; for the stone, also, he pulled down the great north 
 cloister of St. Paul's; St. Mary's Church too was taken down, and the site became 
 part of the garden. The Duke's cofferer's account shows the building, in 1551, to have 
 cost 10,0912. (present money, 50.000Z.). The architect was John of Padua, contempo- 
 rary with Holbein ; and there is a plan of the house among Thorpe's drawings in the 
 Soane Museum ; it was the first building of Italian architecture erected in England. 
 Stow describes it in 1603, as " a large and beautiful house, but yet unfinished." The 
 Protector did not inhabit the palace; for he was imprisoned in the Tower in 1549, and 
 beheaded in 1552. Somerset Place then devolved to the Crown, and was assigned by 
 Edward VI. to his sister the Princess Elizabeth. 
 
 " Feb. 1566-7, Cornelius de la Noyne, an alchymist, wrought in Somerset House, and abused many 
 in promising to convert any metall into gold." Lord urghley's Notes. 
 
 In 1570, Queen Elizabeth went to the Royal Exchange, " from her house at the 
 Strand, called Somerset House j" it also occurs as " Somerset Place, beyond Strand 
 Bridge." The Queen lent the mansion to her kinsman, Lord Hunsdon, whose guest 
 she occasionally became. At her death, the palace was settled as a jointure-house of 
 the queen-consort ; and passed to Anne of Denmark, queen of James I., by whose 
 command it was called Denmark House. Inigo Jones erected here " new buildings and 
 enlargements." Here the remains of Anne and James I. lay in State. For Henrietta 
 Maria, queen of Charles I., Inigo Jones built a chapel, with a rustic arcade and Corin- 
 thian columns, facing the Thames ; and here the Queen established a convent of 
 Capuchin friars ; in the passage leading from east to west, under the quadrangle of 
 the present Somerset House, are five tombstones of the Queen's attendants. 
 
 From a manuscript inventory in the library of Mr. Gough, " the chappel goods at Somerset House" 
 were numerous and costly. Of the goods aud furniture appraised in 1649, the arras hangings and 
 tapestry were of great value; the state-beds, pavilions, canopies, cloths-of-state, carpets, mantles, table- 
 linen, &c., were very rich : one of the beds of embroidered French satin was valued at 10CXM. Among
 
 736 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the pictures were the Madonna by Raphael, valued at 2000?. ; a Sleeping Venus by Correggio, at 
 WOOL ; and many by Titian, And. del Sarto, Julio Romano, Guido, Correggio, Giorgione, Vandyke, &c. 
 Of the tenements " belonging unto Somerset House" (20 inns), the Red Lion, nearly opposite, in 
 the Strand, is the only remaining one among the signs in the list : the sculptured sign-stone is built 
 into the house No. 342, Strand. 
 
 Inigo Jones died here in 1652. During the Protectorate, the altar and chapel were 
 ordered to be burnt ; and in 1659 the palace was about to be sold for 10,OOOZ. ; but 
 after the Restoration, the Queen-mother Henrietta returned to Somerset House, which 
 she repaired; hence she is made to exclaim, in Cowley's courtly verse: 
 
 " Before my gate a street's broad channel goes, 
 Which still with waves of crowding people flows ; 
 And every day there passes by my side, 
 Up to its western reach, the London tide, 
 The spring-tides of the terra. My front looks down 
 On all the pride and business of the town." 
 
 Waller's adulatory incense rises still higher : 
 
 " But what new mine this work supplies ? 
 Can such a pile from ruin rise ? 
 This like the first creation shows, 
 As if at your command it rose." 
 
 Upon her Majesty's New Buildings at Somerset House. 
 
 Here was introduced into England the inlaying of floors with coloured woods. 
 Pepys gossips of " the Queen-mother's court at Somerset House, above our own Queen's ; 
 mass in the chapel; the garden; and the new buildings, mighty magnificent and 
 costly," " stately and nobly furnished ;" and " the great stone stairs in the garden, 
 with the brave echo." The Queen-mother died abroad in 1669. In 1669-70 the 
 remains of Monk, Duke of Albemarle, " lay for many weeks in royal state" at Somerset 
 House ; and thence he was buried with every honour short of regality. Thither the 
 remains of Oliver Cromwell were removed from Whitehall in 1658, and were laid in 
 State in the great hall of Somerset House, " and represented in effigy, standing on a 
 bed of crimson velvet ;" he was buried from thence with great pomp and pageantry, 
 which provoked the people to throw dirt, in the night, on his escutcheon that was 
 placed over the great gate of Somerset Place ; his pompous funeral cost 28,0001. On 
 the death of Charles II., in 1685, the palace became the sole residence of the Queen 
 Dowager, Catherine of Braganza ; and in 1678 three of her household were charged 
 with the murder of Sir Edmund Berry Godfrey, by decoying him into Somerset House, 
 and there strangling him. (See PKIMKOSE HILL, p. 692.) The Queen had here a small 
 establishment of Capuchins, who inhabited " the New Friary," as did the Capuchins 
 in Henrietta Maria's time, " the Old Friary ;" both are shown in a plan 1706. 
 
 Strype describes the palace about 1720 ; its front with stone pillars, its spacious 
 square court, great hall or guard-room, large staircase and rooms of State, larger courts, 
 and " most pleasant garden ;" the water-gate with figures of Thames and Isis ; and the 
 water-garden, with fountain and statues. Early in the last century, court masquerades 
 were given here : Addison, in the Freeholder, mentions one in l7l6 ; and in 1763 a 
 splendid fete was given here by Government to the Venetian Ambassador. In 1771, 
 the Royal Academy had apartments in the palace, granted by George III. In 1775, 
 Parliament settled upon Queen Charlotte Buckingham House, in which she then resided, 
 in lieu of Old Somerset House, which was given up to be demolished, for the erection upon 
 the site of certain public offices ; the produce of the sale of Ely House being applied 
 towards the expenses. The chapel, which had been opened for the Protestant service, 
 by order of Queen Anne, in 1711, was not closed until 1777. The venerable court-way 
 from the Strand, and the dark and winding steps which led down to the garden 
 beneath the shade of ancient and lofty trees, were the last lingering features of 
 Somerset Place, and were characteristic of the gloomy lives and fortunes of its royal 
 and noble inmates. " The best view of the ancient house is preserved in the Dulwich 
 Gallery." Charles Reed, F.8.A. 
 
 SOMERSET HOUSE 
 
 rVCCUPIES the site of the old palace, an area of 800 feet by 500, or a few feet less 
 *J than the ai ea of Russell-square. It is the finest work of Sir William Chambers:
 
 SOMERSET HOUSE. 737 
 
 the first stone was laid in 1776 ; and the Strand front, 7 stories high, was nearly \ 
 completed in 1780.* It consists of a rustic arcade basement of 9 arches, supporting * 
 Corinthian columns, and an attic in the centre, with a balustrade at each extremity ; 
 the whole in Portland stone. The key-stones of the arches are colossal masks of 
 Ocean, and the eight great rivers of England, the Thames, Humber, Mersey, Medway, 
 Dee, Tweed, Tyne, and Severn sculptured by Carlini and Wilton. In the frieze of 
 the three middle windows are medallions of George III., his queen, and the Prince of 
 Wales. In the attic are statues of Justice, Truth, Valour, and Temperance; the 
 summit being surmounted by the British Arms, supported by Fame and the Genius of 
 England. The vaultings of the vestibule are enriched with sculptures from the 
 antique, and are supported by two ranges of coupled Doric columns. On the east side 
 are the entrances to the apartments of the Royal Society, the Society of Antiquaries, 
 the Royal Astronomical Society, and the Geological Society ; and on the west were 
 those of the Royal Academy, subsequently of the School of Design, next of the Uni- 
 versity of London Board. Over the central doorway, east, is a bust of Newton ; 
 west, of Michael Angelo ; by Wilton, R. A. 
 
 Facing the vestibule is a massive bronze group of George III. leaning upon a 
 rudder, backed by the prow of a Roman (!) vessel, and a couchant lion; and at the 
 monarch's feet is a figure of the Thames, with an urn and cornucopia : the work of 
 John Bacon, R.A. ; cost 20001. 
 
 The inner side of the Strand front has in the attic statues of the four quarters of 
 the globe ; and over the centre are the British Arms, supported by marine deities 
 holding a festoon of netting filled with fish, &c. Ornaments of antique altars and 
 sphinxes screen the chimneys ; and on the key-stones are sculptured masks of tutelar 
 deities. 
 
 The east, west, and south sides of the edifice are Government Offices, which occupy, 
 besides the superstructure, two stories below the general level of the quadrangle, the 
 passages to which are skilfully contrived. The centre of the south side is enriched 
 with Corinthian columns and pilasters, and a pediment with a bas-relief of the arms 
 of the navy of Great Britain, a sea-nymph, sea-horses, and tritons ; trophies, vases, &c. 
 
 The Thames front, 800 feet in length, is in the Venetian style, and is enriched with 
 columns, pilasters, pediments, &c. : at each extremity is an archway opening to 
 Somerset-place on the west, and King's College on the east ; the latter built by Sir 
 Robert Smirke, in 1829, in accordance with Chambers's design. In each end a portico 
 stands on the summit of a semicircular arch, the bases of two out of its four columns 
 resting on the hollow part, giving an air of insecurity intolerable in architecture. 
 
 The Terrace is 50 feet in width, and raised 50 feet above the bed of the river, upon 
 a massive rustic arcade, which has a central water-gate surmounted with a colossal 
 mask of the river Thames. The side arches are flanked by rustic columns, and sur- 
 mounted by stone couchant lions, between 8 and 9 feet in length. The terrace is 
 skirted with a balustrade ; and here again is a colossal figure of the Thames. The 
 walk was formerly opened to the public on Sundays : the prospect includes the river, 
 with its magnificent bridges and picturesque craft ; the city, with its domes, towers, 
 and spires j the forest of masts ; and the Surrey hills on the south : recalling Cowley's 
 
 lines: 
 
 " My other fair and most majestick face 
 (Who can the fair to more advantage place ?) 
 For ever gazes on itself below, 
 In the best mirrour that the world cau show ; 
 And here behold, in a long bending row, 
 How two joynt cities make one glorious bow ; 
 The midst, the noblest place, possessed by me; 
 Beat to be seen by all, and all o'ersee. 
 Which way soe'er I turn my joyful eye, 
 Here the great Court, there the rich Town I spy. 
 On either side dwells safety and delight ; 
 Wealth on the left, and Power on the right." 
 
 In the quadrangle are the Admiralty Offices, where are the Model Room ; the 
 Audit Office, the Legacy Duty Office, and Inland Revenue Office (Stamps, Taxes, and 
 
 * Upon a brick in the wall of the western terrace, or Somerset-place, is cut R.* S. 1780. 
 
 3 B
 
 738 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Excise). The mechanical stamping is executed in the basement : the presses for 
 stamping postage envelopes, by Edwin Hill, are the perfection of automatic machinery. 
 In Somerset-place, west, is the office of the Tithe Commission and of the Registrar- 
 General : to the latter are transmitted registers of a million births, deaths, and mar- 
 riages in a year. 
 
 Over the entrance to the Stamps and Taxes Office, on the south side, is a watch-face, popularly 
 believed to be the watch of a bricklayer, and placed there as a memorial of his life having been saved in 
 his fall, when the wall was building, by his watch-chain catching in some portion of the scaffold. Such 
 is the traditional story ; but the watch-face was really put up some forty years since as a meridian- 
 mark for a transit instrument in a window of the Royal Society's ante-room, in the inner face of the 
 north front. 
 
 Mr. Cunningham, in his Handbook of London, relates the following interesting circumstance, which 
 he was told by an old clerk on the establishment of the Audit Office, at Somerset House : " When 1 
 first came to this building," he said, " I was in the habit of seeing, for many mornings, a thin, spare 
 naval officer, with only one arm, enter the vestibule at a smart step, and make direct for the Admiralty 
 over the rough, round stones of the quadrangle, instead of taking what others generally took, and 
 continue to take, the smooth pavement of the sides. His thin, frail figure shook at every step, and I 
 often wondered why he chose so rough a footway ; but I ceased to wonder when I heard that the thin, 
 frail officer was no other than Lord Nelson, who always took," continued my informant, " the nearest 
 way to the place he wanted to go to." 
 
 Telford, the engineer, when he came to London in 1782, got employed on the 
 quadrangle, then erecting by Sir William Chambers. 
 
 Somerset House is almost the only public building which distinguishes the reign of 
 <5eorge III. : it cost half a million of money by the extant accounts. The style is 
 Italian, " refined to a degree scarcely excelled by Palladio himself." (Elmes.) The 
 exterior is the perfection of masonry. The Ionic, Composite, and Corinthian capitals 
 throughout the building were copied from models executed at Rome, by Chambers, 
 from antique originals : the sculptors employed in the decorations were Carlini, Wilton, 
 Ceracci, Nollekens, Bacon, Banks, and Flaxman. 
 
 The west wing, left incomplete by Sir W. Chambers, was resumed in 1852 (for the 
 Inland Revenue Office), Pennethorne architect : this wing, 300 feet in length, will face 
 Wellington-street ; its south end was completed in 1853 : the details are copied from 
 the main building ; but the ornamental sculpture is very inferior. The central mass 
 is composed of a pediment, the tympanum of which is filled with the Royal arms, 
 \ surrounded with foliage, and the national emblems of the rose, thistle, and shamrock 
 I in high relief. On the apex of the pediment is a sitting statue of Britannia, 7 feet in 
 \ height and 4 feet in width at the base ; at the extreme ends are sea-horses. On the 
 \ lower range of the facade, standing on pedestals, there are colossal statues, 7 feet 
 \ 6 inches high, emblematic of Glasgow, Edinburgh, London, Manchester, Dublin, and 
 vBelf ast ; and over the principal entrance a group, the centre of which contains a 
 medallion of Queen Victoria, surrounded by a wreath of laurel, and supported by re- 
 cumbent female figures of Fame and History. Somerset House covers 12 acres. 
 
 SOUTH-SEA HOUSE, THE, 
 
 fFHREADNEEDLE-STREET and Old Broad-street, was the office of the South-Sea 
 J- Company, originated by Harley, Earl of Oxford, and Sir John Blunt (" much 
 injured Blunt"), in 1711, for the discharge of nearly ten millions of public debt ; for 
 which they were granted, in 1720, the monopoly of the trade to the South Seas and 
 the mines of Spanish America. In April, 1720, the Company's stock rose to 3191. per 
 cent. ; and early in June it had risen to 890Z. per cent. The Directors then opened 
 fresh books for a subscription of 4,000,OOOZ. at 1000Z. per cent. Before the expiration 
 of the month, the subscription was at 2001. per cent premium, and the stock at nearly 
 1100Z. Newton, on being asked as to the continuance of the rising of the South-Sea 
 Stock, answered, that " he could not calculate on the madness of the people." Prior 
 writes : " I am tired of politics, and lost in the South Sea. The roaring of the waves 
 and the madness of the people were justly put together." A journal of Aug. 5 says : 
 " Our South-Sea equipage increases every day ; the City ladies buy South-Sea jewels, 
 hire South-Sea coaches, and buy South-Sea estates." With the connivance of the 
 Government, the scheme reached this climax, when the frauds of the Directors tran- 
 spired : within three months the stock fell to 861. per cent, and " the South Sea- 
 Bubble" burst. (See EXCHANGE ALLEY, p. 333.)
 
 SOUTHWARK 739 
 
 The South-Sea scheme was lampooned by Swift, and satirized by Pope : 
 
 " Statesmen and patriots plied alike the stocks, 
 Peeress and butler shared alike the box ; 
 And judges jobbed, and bishops bit the town, 
 And mighty dukes packed cards for half-a-crown : 
 Britain was sunk in lucre's sordid charms." 
 
 Among the victims was the poor maniac, "Tom of Ten Thousand" (Eustace Bndgell), who lost his 
 whole fortune and his reason. The Duke of Chandos lost 300,0002. Gay, the poet, possessed 20,0002. 
 South-Sea Stock, which he neglected to sell, and thus lost profit and principal. (See Mackay's Popular 
 Delusions.) 
 
 The Company has long ceased to be a trading body : and in 1853-4 the South-Sea 
 Stock, to the amount of ten millions, was converted or paid off. The original office 
 (formerly the Excise Office) was in Old Broad-street, and was known as " the Old 
 South-Sea House." The new building in Threadneedle-street had a Doric portico, and 
 incloses a quadrangle, with a Tuscan colonnade and a fountain : but it had latterly 
 " few or no traces of goers-in or comers-out a desolation something like Balclutha's." 
 (C. Lamb.) The great hall for sales and the dining-room were hung with portraits of 
 governors and sub-governors, huge charts, &c. Underneath are vaulted cellars, wherein 
 were once deposited dollars and pieces of eight. The premises, sold for 53,0002., are 
 now let in suites of chambers. 
 
 SOUTHWARK. 
 
 OF the etymology of this ancient suburb, Mr. Ralph Lindsay, F.S.A., has collected 
 ninety-seven authorities, commencing with Suftpepke, during the Saxon Hep- 
 tarchy : but there is abundant proof that it was an extensive station and cemetery of 
 the Romans during an early period of their dominion in Britain, attested by the fictile 
 vases and pavements (portions of Roman houses) found in Southwark. 
 
 In November, 1866, there were found in digging the foundation of a warehouse, between Southwark- 
 square and Winchester-street, in a space of about 100 feet by 40 feet, sixteen pits, each disclosing 
 Boman pottery above piles and puddled clay ; and when this was removed, shells, pebbles, and refuse, 
 such as is always seen along the water's-edge, although the spot in question is now full 300 yards from 
 the Thames shore. The piles were of oak and beech, with pointed bases, and masses of Kentish rag, 
 which Mr. Syer Cuming thinks these groups of piles once supported as lake dwellings, similar to those 
 formerly in Finsbury and Moorfields; each group with a kitchen-midden; latest food relics, oyster- 
 shells, may indicate the presence of Romans in the neighbourhood; and near the piles was found a 
 pavement of red tessellae, broken fictilia, piece of a Samian bowl, &c., the remains, probably, of a 
 Boman villa. The evidence of the age of the piles is questionable; but these discoveries, made north 
 and south of the Thames, manifest how appropriate and descriptive was the British name of our ancient 
 metropolis, Lyn Din, the lake-town. Proa. British Arckceological Association. 
 
 It was embanked, contemporaneously with the three great Roman roads shown to 
 have terminated in St. George's Fields, and to have communicated with the City by a 
 trajectus, or ferry, over the Thames to Dowgate, from Stoney -street, Bankside ; and 
 another to the Tower, or Arx Palatina, from Stoney-lane, Tooley-street. To its 
 fortification may be traced the Saxon name, Sudwerche, the south work of London. 
 It is called Surder-virke in a Danish account of a battle fought here by King Olaf in 
 1008 ; and Suth-ioeorce in the narrative of Earl Godwin's attack in 1052, when here 
 was a wooden bridge. Southwark was burnt by William the Conqueror. In Domes- 
 day-book the Bishop of Baieux hath here one monastery (Bermondsey), and one haven 
 (St. Saviour's dock). On coins of William I. we find Svethewer, or Svet herb ; on 
 pennies of William II., Svthevk, Svthewi, and Svthewr ; and about 1086, the annual 
 revenue derived from it was only 1.61. In 1327, upon the complaint that Southwark 
 was the refuge of felons and thieves, Edward III. sold the vill or town to the citizens 
 of London, the king still being lord of the manor, and appointing the bailiff. 
 Edward IV. granted the citizens an annual Fair ; by charter of Edward VI., the full 
 control of Southwark was vested in the citizens ; and by Act of Common Council, 
 1550, was constituted a ward of the City, by the name of Bridge Without, the 
 first alderman of which was Sir John Ayliffe, 1551. Southwark has sent members to 
 parliament since temp. Edward I. It was formerly famous for its artists in glass, 
 who, temp. Henry VIII., glazed the windows of King's College Chapel, Cambridge. 
 
 On July I, 1450, Jack Cade arrived in Southwark; and on Feb. 3, 1554, Sir 
 Thomas Wyat and the " Kentyshemen" appeared herej both, probably, in St. George's 
 Fields. 
 
 3 B 2
 
 740 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 " At this time was Wyat entered into Kent-street, and so by Sainct George's Church into South- 
 warke. Himselfe and part of his companye cam in goode array down Barmesey-strete." The Chronicle 
 of Queen Jane, Queen Mary, &c. 
 
 In 1642, Southwark was defended by a fort with four half bulwarks, at the Dog 
 and Duck, St. George's Fields ; a large fort with four bulwarks, near the end of 
 Blackman-street ; and a redoubt with four flanks, near the Lock Hospital, Kent- 
 street. The ancient town, however, was but a small portion of what we know as the 
 Borough, and was the Guildable Manor, extending from St. Mary Overy's Dock west- 
 ward to Hay's-lane ; Tooley-street, eastward; south as far as the Town-hall, thence to 
 Counter-street and St. Mary Overy's Dock. The other portions viz., the King's 
 Manor and the Great Liberty Manor, were not part of the Borough until they were 
 purchased by the Corporation of London from King Edward VI. ; the Corporation 
 being the Lords. 
 
 Southwark was first called the Borough in the eighteenth century ; it occupies an 
 area nearly equal to that of the City of London itself. The principal street, from the 
 south end of Old London Bridge to St. Margaret's Hill, was formerly called Long South- 
 ward (Howell's Jjondinopolis), afterwards High-street, but is now Wellington-street ; 
 thence St. Margaret's Hill; and next High-street, Blac&man-street, and Newington 
 Causeway. The old High-street had many picturesque gabled houses in the present 
 century, thelast of which were removed for the approach to New London Bridge (see p. 450). 
 On the east side remain several old inns (see p. 456) ; one of the taverns on the west side 
 was the Tumble-down-Dick, in our time painted as a drunken toper, but originally a 
 caricature of the downfall of Richard Cromwell, " the new Protector." Nearly opposite 
 the east end of St. Saviour's Church and tower, and the Lady-chapel, was built in 
 1854 a clock-tower, resembling a market-cross, of Gothic design, with a canopied 
 niche for a statue of the great Duke of Wellington. Adjoining the Railway Station, 
 was St. Oiave's School, taken down in 1849 (see p. 726). Here also was St. Thomas's 
 Hospital, described at p. 435. Tooley-street (eastward of London Bridge) is corrupted 
 from St. Oiave's, or St. Olaff's, street. Here, were the Bridge House and Yard, for 
 the stowage of materials for the repairs of London Bridge ; besides corn granaries, 
 public ovens, and a public brew-house ; the site is now Cotton's Wharf and Hay's 
 Wharf. The site of the Borough Compter, a prison, in Mill-lane, was formerly occupied 
 by the Inn of the Abbot of Battle, its mill, &c. 
 
 Southwark possessed two Mints for coinage, described at pages 508 and 509 : the 
 ancient mint is thought to have stood upon the site of the house of the Prior of Lewes, 
 in Carter-lane, nearly opposite St. Oiave's Church, in Tooley-street. (See CETPTS, 
 p. 302.) Here too was " the Abbot's Inn of St. Augustine" (deed 1280), afterwards 
 belonging to the St. Leger family : and thence called Sellinger (i.e. St. Leger's), now 
 Chamberlain's, Wharf. Next was the Bridge-house ; and then, eastward, the Inn of 
 the Abbot of Battle ; and Battle-bridge, over a water-course pertaining to the Abbey. 
 The Manor of the Maze, Sir John Burcettor's, temp. Henry VI., is kept in memory 
 by Maze-lane and Maze-pond ; and upon the site of " St. Thomas's Tents" the Pro- 
 testant refugees of the Palatinate in Germany " pitched their tents" in the reign of 
 Queen Anne. The Maze was built upon in Aubrey's time, 17th century. 
 
 Horselydown extends from Tooley-street to Dockhead : it was temp. Elizabeth, a 
 grazing-field (Horseydowne.) Here was rebuilt, upon a handsome scale, St. Oiave's 
 Grammar-school for 600 boys (see p. 726.) 
 
 " This street, Horselydown, (as I was told by a sober counsellor-at-law, and who said he had it from 
 an old record,) was so called, for that the water, formerly overflowing it, was so effectually drawn off, 
 that the place became a plain green field, where horses and other cattle used to pasture and lye down, 
 before the street was built." Satton, 1708. 
 
 On May 11, 1854, Mr. G. E. Corner, F.S.A., communicated to the Society of Antiquaries Notices of a 
 Drawing in the Society's possession, being a copy of a picture at Hatfield House, representing a fete on 
 Horselydown ; and of a plan of Horselydown in 1541, belonging to the governors of St. Oiave's and St. 
 John's Grammar-School. The picture shows a view of the Tower of London in the distance. The fore- 
 ground is occupied by holiday groups ; cooks are preparing a large repast at a kitchen ; and in the mid- 
 distance are the stocks with a solitary tenant. Underneath a tree are two figures, supposed to represent 
 Ben Jonson and Shakspeare, who are not unlikely to have been present at ttusjete. To Mr. Corner we 
 are indebted for many valuable illustrations of the antiquities of Southwark. 
 
 The Priory of St. Mary Overie, and Church of St. Saviour, are described at
 
 SOUTHWARK 
 
 pp. 199-202 : in the Cotton Collection is a book which formerly belonged to a Prior. 
 The church was approached from High-street by " Chain Gate" (the Priory gates). 
 
 The restoration of the tower and choir, and the Lady Chapel, by George Gwilt, F.S.A., attest Mr. 
 Gwilt's scrupulous accuracy in following the mouldings and detail of the former design, and the care 
 and attention which he has bestowed on the restoration of those parts which had been entirely lost : 
 of this the gables are instances. A beautiful drawing of the choir, by the architect's eldest son, George 
 Gwilt, hangs in the vestry : for which this young and promising architect was presented with 100 guineas. 
 
 Suffolk House, which is prominent in the foreground of Wyngrerde's view, was 
 sumptuously built, almost directly over against St. George's Church, by Charles Brandon 
 (Duke of Suffolk) early in the reign of Henry VIII. ; but coming into the king's 
 hands, it became Southwark Place, and a Mint of Coinage, as described in p. 569. 
 After the death of King Henry VIII., Southwark Place became neglected. Edward 
 VI. occasionally visited it, and feasted here the Lord Mayor and Sheriffs. Queen 
 Mary granted Southwark Place to Nicholas Heath, Archbishop of York, as a recom- 
 pense for York House at Westminster. The Archbishop disliking the situation of 
 Suffolk Place, sold the buildings, and the estate. The purchasers had most of the 
 buildings taken down, sold the materials, and a number of small houses were erected 
 on the site. That part of the building left standing was purchased by Alderman 
 Broomfield, Lord Mayor, whose son marrying the daughter of Thomas Lant, Esq., 
 the estate devolved to the Lant family. Thus, Suffolk -street, Lant-street, the 
 Mint, and other places in Southwark obtained their names from the owners or occu- 
 piers of Suffolk-place, and its extensive park. " Brandonne's Place, in Southwerke," 
 is mentioned in Sir John Howard's Expenses under the year 1465. One of the last 
 of the barbers who let blood, and drew teeth, was Middleditch, of Great Suffolk-street, 
 Southwark, in whose shop-window were displayed heaps of drawn teeth, and at his 
 door the barber's pole. 
 
 Southwark is a Shakspearean locality. The site of the Globe Theatre is believed 
 to be included in that of Barclay and Perkins's Brewery. All vestiges of times as 
 old as Shakspeare and the playhouses there seem to have vanished, except a house 
 which some think may be part of the the original Falcon Tavern. This is situated 
 not far from Pellatt's Falcon Glass-works. The register of the burials in St. Mary Overie's, 
 1607, has " Edmund Shakspeare, the Poet's brother, player, in the church." Gerard 
 Johnson, the sculptor of Shakspeare's bust on his tomb, in the church, at Stratford-on- 
 Avon, lived in St. Thomas Apostle's parish, not far from the Globe, and he must often 
 have seen Shakspeare, as Dugdale assures us. In the Vestry-room of St. Saviour's 
 church long hung a presumed portrait of Shakspeare, which is now in the collection of 
 pictures at the Foundling Hospital. 
 
 Montague-close, adjoining St. Saviour's Church, was the cloister of the monastery ; 
 and, after the Dissolution, appertained to the mansion built by Sir Anthony Browne 
 (Viscount Montague), who obtained a grant of the site of the Priory of St. Mary Overie, 
 and the messuages, wharfs, shops, &c. ; and in St. Mary Overy's Dock was situated the 
 Priory mill. 
 
 Bankside, " the Bank" (Thames-bank in Domesday -book), extends from near St. 
 Saviour's Church to Blackfriars-bridge. Here were two " Beare-gardens, places wherein 
 were kept beares, bulls, and other beasts, to be bayted; as also mastives, in several 
 kenles, nourished to bayt them" (Stow). Here Edward Alleyn, the founder of Dulwich 
 College, kept the Bear-garden, temp. Elizabeth and James I.; but "His Majesty's 
 Bear-garden" was removed to Hockley-in-the-Hole, Clerkenwell, in 1686-7. Here 
 also were the Globe, the Rose, the Hope, and the Swan Theatres (see THEATEES). 
 The Stew-houses were put down by sound of trumpet, by Henry VIII. Before the 
 Restoration the theatres had disappeared, and Bankside became the abode of dyers, for 
 " the conveniency of the water." Here are Rose Alley and Globe Alley, from the old 
 theatres. Pike Garden is named in a parliamentary survey of 1649 as " late parcel 
 of the possessions of Charles Stuart, late king of England j" and in another survey, 
 made in 1652, occurs " the late king's barge-house on the Bankside." (See also p. 31.) 
 
 Winchester House, or Palace, founded about 1107, by Bishop Walter Giffard, with 
 its court, offices, and water-stairs, occupied great part of the " Bank ;" and had, on the
 
 742 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 south, gardens, statues, fountains, and a spacious park : hence Park-street. The de- 
 caying palace was let as warehouses and wharfs ; and the venerable remains of its great 
 hall, with a grand circular gable-window, of rare tracery, were laid open by a fire in 
 August, 1814. The Vinegar-works of Messrs. Pott are upon a part of the park site, and 
 are held of the see of Winchester. Adjoining was Rochester Souse, the residence of 
 the Bishops of Rochester : it stood on the north side of the Borough Market-place, part 
 of which was Rochester-yard ; and Rochester-street still exists. This estate, anciently 
 called Grimes Croft, was granted by William, second Earl of Warren, to the monks of 
 Rochester, by placing his knife upon the altar of St. Andrew. Rochester House was 
 taken down in the year 1604. 
 
 Deadman's-place, west of the Market, is said to be corrupted from Desmond-place, 
 where dwelt the Earl of Desmond : here are the College founded by Thomas Cure, 
 saddler to Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth ; almshouses built by Edward Alleyn, 1616, 
 and other almshouses. 
 
 Southwark Tokens. In the Beaufoy Collection, at Guildhall, are "the Bore's Head," 1649 (between 
 Nos. 25 and 26, High-street) : it was leased to the family of the author of the present volume, and was 
 sublet in tenements, as " Boar's-Head-court," taken down in 1830. Next also is a "Dogg and Dvcke" 
 token, 1651 (St. George's Fields) ; "the Greene Man," 1651 (which remains in Blackman-street) ; "ye 
 Bull Head Taverne," 1667, mentioned by Edward Alleyn, founder of Dulwich College, as one of his 
 resorts ; " Duke of Suffolk's Head," 1669 ; and the " Swan with Two Necks." 
 
 Southwark and the adjacent districts are noted for their manufactures : as rope- 
 walks and tan-pits at Bermondsey ; barge and boat-builders, sawyers and timber- 
 merchants, at Rotherhithe; also, hat making, brewing, vinegar-yards, and distilleries, 
 glass-houses, potteries, and soap and candle works. 
 
 The High-street is crossed nearly opposite St. Saviour's church by an ugly railway 
 bridge, and the line trends thence, anaconda-like, along the south bank of the Thames, 
 which it crosses by three bridges. In the railway works were demolished some Eliza- 
 bethan houses in Stoney-street, close to the palaces of the Bishops of Rochester and 
 Winchester, between the bear-gardens of Bankside and the Clink Prison, chiefly occu- 
 pied by the licensed keepers of houses of infamous resort, from the twelfth till the six- 
 teenth century, when that nuisance was at length suppressed by law. Almost parallel 
 extends Southward-street, flanked with groups of lofty warehouses, banking-houses, 
 Hop Exchange, &c. ; eastward, the street is continued into Bermondsey and Rother- 
 hithe, and is a noble improvement. A subway* is formed in the centre of the road, 
 and is thus described : 
 
 This subway is an arched passage, 12ft. wide and nearly 7ft. high, from which are side passages 
 leading to cellars built beneath the footwalks. In the subway the gas, water-mains, and telegraph- 
 wires are laid, the side passages conveying the two former necessaries direct into the cellars, and 
 thence into the houses themselves. The object of this new work is, of course, to do away with the nuisances 
 caused by the stoppage of thoroughfares to repair a gas or water main. This subway is wide and high 
 enough to allow of any repairs of this kind being carried on. The drams from the houses are formed of 
 strong stoneware pipes, passing at a rather steep incline beneath the subway into the main sewer, which 
 is placed below the floor of the passage in the centre, but not so deep but that it can instantly be opened 
 for repairs or removal of stoppages. Every part of the subway is ventilated in the most perfect manner. 
 
 The Southwark arms are, Arg., a rose displayed. The Bridge-house mark is usually, 
 but erroneously, used to designate Southwark, because the manors form part of the 
 Bridge-house estates. That mark is, Azure, an annulet ensigned with a cross patee, or, 
 interlaced with a saltire conjoined in base, of the second. The City jurisdiction, ac- 
 cording to the inscription upon the boundary-stone at the western extremity of Beth- 
 lehem Hospital wall, and other parts of the liberties, extends northward to the Thames, 
 and eastward to St. Thomas-a- Watering in the Kent-road ; comprehending the parishes 
 of St. George, St. Saviour (exclusive of the Clink Liberty), St. Thomas, St. Olave, and 
 St. John. Southwark occupies an area of 590 acres ; the City of London 600 acres. 
 
 At No. 6, Blackman-street, Sir Jame. j South (eldest son of a dispensing chemist in 
 the High-street) made several valuable astronomical observations. (See KENSINGTOK, 
 p. 488.) At No. 104, High-street, sign of the Golden Key (of which a Token exists), 
 lived Mr. Elliotson, chemist and druggist, father of John Elliotson, M.D., F.R.S. 
 
 The historic Inns of Southwark are described at p. 456. 
 
 * Subways, or passages beneath the streets of the metropolis, were advocated in 1828, by Mr. 
 Williams, of Birchin-lane, in a bulky octavo volume. In 1859, this great improvement was commenced 
 by the Board of Works under the new street leading from Cranbourn-street to Covent-garden.
 
 SPITALFIELDS. 743 
 
 SOUTHWARK FAIR, 
 
 A NCIENTLY called "Our Lady Faire in Southwark," was granted by Edward VI., 
 -*- in 1550, when the sum of 647Z. 2s. Id. was paid by the Corporation of London for 
 the two manors and divers lands and tenements. The Fair, held on September 7th, 
 8th, and 9th, was opened by the Lord Mayor and Sheriffs riding to St. Magnus' Church 
 after dinner, at two o'clock in the afternoon : the former vested with his collar of SS., 
 without his hood ; and all dressed in their scarlet gowns, lined, without their cloaks. 
 They were attended by the Sword-bearer, wearing his embroidered cap, and carrying 
 " the pearl sword " and at the church were met by the aldermen, all of whom, after 
 evening prayer, rode over the bridge in procession, passed through the Fair, and con- 
 tinued either to St. George's Church, Newington Bridge, or to the stones pointing out 
 the City liberties at St. Thomas-a- Watering. They then returned over the bridge, or 
 to the Bridge House, where a banquet was provided, when the aldermen took leave of 
 the Lord Mayor j and all parties being returned home, the bridge-masters gave a supper 
 to the Lord Mayor's officers. Sheriff Hoare thus describes the ceremony in 1741 : On 
 the 8th of September the Sheriffs waited on the Lord Mayor in procession, " the City 
 music going before, to proclaim SouthivarJc Fair, as it is commonly called ; although- 
 the ceremony is no more than our going in our coaches through the Borough, and 
 turning round by St. George's Church, back again to the Bridge House ; and this is to 
 signify the licence to begin the Fair." " On this day the Sword-bearer wears a fine 
 embroidered cap, said to have been worked and presented to the City by a monastery." 
 Evelyn and Pepys describe the Fair. Jacob Hall was one of its famous rope-dancers ; 
 and early in the last century, Crawley's puppet-show of the Creation, " with the addi- 
 tion of Noah's Flood," Squire and Sir John Spendall; Dancing Dogs, and "the Ball of 
 Little Dogs," danced before Queen Anne ; were Southwark Fair sights. Hogarth, La 
 his plate of the Fair, shows Figg the prize-fighter, and Cadman the rope-flyer. In 
 1743 the Fair continued fourteen days, and extended to the Mint : an attempt was 
 then made to put down the shows, but the Fair was not finally suppressed until 1763 : 
 the booth-keepers used to collect money here for Marshalsea prisoners. 
 
 SPITALFIELDS 
 
 TNCLUDES large portions of Bethnal-green, Shoreditch, Whitechapel, and Mile-end 
 J- New-town. Part of the site was anciently Lolesworth, a cemetery of Roman Lon- 
 don, in breaking up which, "for clay to make brick," about 1576, were found several 
 urns full of ashes and burnt bones, and copper coins of Claudius, Vespasian, Nero, Anto- 
 uinus Pius, Trajan, &c. j also fragments of Roman Pottery and glass. (See Stow, p. 64.} 
 At the same time were found some stone coffins (British or Saxon), which are preserved 
 in the vaults of Christchurch. 
 
 Spitalfields is named from its having been the site and property of the Priory and 
 Hospital of St. Mary Spittle without Bishopsgate, founded in 1197, by Walter Brune, 
 citizen of London, and Rosia his wife, for Augustine canons; at the Dissolution in 
 1534 it had 130 beds for the receipt of the poor of charity. Bagford, in Leland's Col- 
 lectanea, mentions the priory, then standing, strongly built of timber, with a turret at 
 one angle : its ruins were discovered early in the last century north of Spital-square. 
 In one of the houses built here lived the celebrated Lord Bolingbroke. At the north- 
 east corner of Spital-square was placed the Pulpit-cross, whence were preached, in the 
 open air, the Spital Sermons* (see p. 157) : the pulpit was destroyed in the Civil Wars. 
 In the Map executed in the reign of Elizabeth, the Spittle fields are at the north-east 
 extremity of London, with only a few houses on the site of the Spital. The map of a 
 century later shows a square field bounded with houses, with the old Artillery Ground 
 on the west, which was let by the last prior to the Artillery Company, and is now 
 the site of Artillery-street. " A Faire in Spittlefields" is described in a scarce pamphlet 
 
 * Hatton relates of a Spital-sermon : " In 1632, three brothers, named Wineope, were called from 
 remote places, and preached on the three sermon-days, agreeing so nicely in their subject, that the 
 second continued what the first began, and the third brought it to a conclusion."
 
 744 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 in the British Museum, whereat William Lilly announces his astrological wares for 
 sale ; and Nicholas Culpepper, the herbalist, says : 
 
 " Bid money, tho' but little ; 
 For night comes on, and we must leave the Spittle." 
 
 Culpepper occupied a house then in the fields, and subsequently a public-house at the 
 corner of Red-Lion-court. Hard by the priory site is Paternoster-row, where, and not 
 in Paternoster -row, St. Paul's (see p. 668), some antiquaries maintain, Tarlton, the 
 player at the Curtain Theatre, "kept an ordinary in these pleasant fields." 
 
 An Order in Council, 5th March, 1669, states, the inhabitants of the pleasant locality of Spitalflelds 
 petitioned the Council to restrain certain persons from digging earth, and making and burning bricks 
 In these fields, which would not only render them " very noisome," but " prejudice the cloathes which 
 are usually dryed in two large grounds adjoyning, and the rich stuffs of divers colours which are made 
 in the same place, by altering and changing their colours," &c. 
 
 Bethnal-green and Spitalfields were grassy open spaces in the last century ; but 
 Spital- square, at the south-east corner, has been the heart of the silk district since "the 
 poor Protestant strangers, Walloons and French," driven from France by the revocation 
 of the Edict of Nantes, settled here, and thus founded the silk-manufacture in England; 
 introducing the weaving of lustrings, alamodes, brocades, satins, paduasoys, ducapes, 
 and black velvets : in 1713 it was stated that silks, gold and silver stuffs, and ribbons, 
 were made here as good as those of French fabric ; and that black silk for hoods and 
 scarfs was made annually worth 300,000. Tapestries and hangings of the interiors of 
 English houses were manufactured in Spitalfields, even before the settlement of the 
 French refugees in that district. In the Queen's Bedchamber at Windsor Castle was 
 a bed of state, of rich flowered velvet, made at Spitalfields in the reign of Queen Anne. 
 About this time, bedchambers were hung with tapestry made in Spitalfields, where an 
 artist, named Boyston, excelled in tapestries of harvest-fields and other ruralities. After 
 the discontinuance of the use of tapestry, the skill of the weavers was confined mainly to 
 the manufacture of silks and velvets. During the reigns of Anne, George I. and II., 
 the Spitalfields weavers greatly increased : in 1832, 50,000 persons were entirely 
 dependent on the silk-manufacture ; and the looms varied from 14,000 to 17,000. Of 
 these, great numbers are often unemployed ; and the distribution of funds raised for 
 their relief has attracted to Spitalfields a large number of poor persons, and thus 
 pauperized the district. The earnings of weavers in 1854 did not exceed 10s. per 
 week, working from 14 to 16 hours a day : the weaving is either the richest or the 
 thinnest and poorest. In 1867, the Rev. Isaac Taylor, Incumbent of St. Matthias', in 
 a terrible and touching picture of the condition of his parish, stated : 
 
 " The great difficulty which confronts us is the dead level of excessive poverty. A skilful workman, 
 making costly velvets or rich silks, and labouring from 12 to 16 hours a day, will only earn, on an average, 
 about 12. a week. There are many who do not earn above 7. or 8*. ; and the labour required to gain 
 these miserable wages is great and excessive. To make a single inch of velvet, the shuttle has to be thrown 
 180 times, 180 times the treadles have to be worked, 60 times the wire has to be inserted, 60 times to 
 be withdrawn, 60 times the knife has to be guided along the whole breadth of the work, and 60 times 
 the pressure of the chest has to be exerted on a heavy beam, which is used to compress the work. 600 
 distinct operations are thus required to make one single inch of velvet, the average payment for making 
 which is Id. The women, whose strength does not enable them to move so heavy a beam with the 
 chest, are employed in making velveteens, chenilles, silk and cotton trimmings, and bead trimmings. 
 They earn about one-third the wages of the men. For fancy braid the payment is one halfpenny a yard. 
 Even at these starvation wages work is very scarce ; the men are often for weeks together out of employ, 
 or, as it is termed by a wretched mockery, ' at play.' Yet these poor people, with all the burden of their 
 poverty, are wonderfully uncomplaining and self-reliant." 
 
 The weavers are principally English, and of English origin ; but the manufacturers 
 or masters are of French extraction ; and the Guillebauds, the Desormeaux, the Chabots, 
 the Turqnands, the Mercerons, and the Chauvets, trace their connexion with the 
 refugees of 1685. Many translated their names into English, by which the old 
 families may still be known : thus, the Lemaitres called themselves Masters ; the 
 Leroys, King; the Tonneliers, Cooper; the Lejeunes, Young; the Leblancs, White; 
 the Lenoirs, Black ; the Loiseaus, Bird. Many of the weavers still cherish proud 
 traditions of their ancestry ; though now, perhaps, only clad in rags, they bear the old 
 historic names of France names of distinguished generals and statesmen; names 
 such as Vendome, Ney, Racine, De Foe, La Fontaine, Dupin, Bois, Le Beau, Auvache, 
 Fontaiueau, and Montier.
 
 SPRING GARDENS. 745 
 
 The weavers' houses, built in narrow streets, have wide latticed windows in the 
 tipper stories, which light the work-room. Upon the roofs are bird-traps and other 
 bird-catching contrivances ; for the weavers supply London with singing-birds, as 
 linnets, woodlarks, goldfinches, greenfinches, and chaffinches ; and many, in October and 
 March, get their livelihood by systematic bird- catching ; matches of singing or "jerk- 
 ing " call-birds are determined by the burning of an inch of candle. 
 
 Spitalfields weavers have extremely small heads, 65, 6^, and 6f inches being the 
 prevailing widths ; and the same fact is observable in Coventry ; the medium size of 
 the male head in England is 7 inches. The weavers' practice of singing at their looms 
 was doubtless brought with them from the Continent, as was the custom of woollen- 
 weavers. 
 
 " I would I were a weaver, I could sing all manner of songs." Falsfaff, in Henry IV. Part I. act ii. 
 " He got his cold with sitting up late, and singing catches with clothworkers." Cubbard, in Ben 
 Jonson's Silent Woman, act iii. sc. 4. 
 
 Spitalfields was a hamlet of Stepney until 1729, when it was made a district parish, 
 and Christchurch was consecrated (see p. 157). Among the parochial charities is "cat 
 and dog money," an eccentric bequest to be paid on the death of certain pet cats and 
 dogs : a sickening bequest in such a locality of poverty and starvation. 
 
 The Sisters of Charity have been working in these districts since the winter of 
 1854 ; they visit an extent of several miles of habitations of the poor, tending, washing 
 them, and nursing them, and supplying them with warm food, clothes, and other things 
 necessary to sickness ; and these ministering angels nurse the sick, who cannot be re- 
 moved to hospitals, in their own houses. 
 
 In Crispin-street is the Government School of Design, where are awarded prizes for 
 designs for fabrics, drawing and painting from nature, crayon-drawing, &c. Spitalfields 
 Market is mentioned by Hatton, in 1708, as fine for " flesh, fowl, and roots." In the 
 district are VICTORIA PAEK (see p. 655), and the City Consumption Hospital. 
 
 In Crispin-street, until 1845, the Mathematical Society occupied large apartments, for their philo- 
 sophical instruments and library of 3000 volumes. The Society, which also cultivated electricity, was 
 established in 1717, and met at the Monmouth't Head in Monmouth-street, until 1725, when they 
 removed to the White Horse Tavern, in Wheeler-street ; from thence, in 1735, to Sen Jonspn's Head, in 
 Pelham-street ; and next to Crispin-street. The members were chiefly tradesmen and artisans; among 
 those of higher rank were Canton, Dollond, Thomas Simpson, and Crossley. The Society lent their 
 instruments (air-pumps, reflecting telescopes, reflecting microscopes, electrical machines, surveying 
 instruments, &c.), with books for the use of them, on the borrowers giving a note of hand for the value 
 thereof. The number of members was not to exceed the square of seven, except such as were abroad or 
 in the country ; but this was increased to the squares of eight and nine. The members met on Saturday 
 evenings : each present was to employ himself in some mathematical exercise, or forfeit one penny ; and 
 if he refused to answer a question asked by another in mathematics, he was to forfeit twopence. The 
 Society long cherished a taste for exact science ; but in 1845, when on the point of dissolution, the few 
 remaining members made over their books, records, and memorials to the Royal Astronomical Society, 
 of which these members were elected fellows. Abridged from Weld's History of the Royal Society, 
 vol. i. pp. 467-8. At Bethnal-green, in 1648, Sir Balthazar Gerbier established " The Academy for 
 Foreign Languages, and all Noble Sciences and Exercises." 
 
 SPUING GAEDEN, 
 
 /^VRIGINALLY an appurtenance to the palace of Whitehall, and situate on the 
 vx north-western verge of St. James's Park, is named from its water-spring or 
 fountain, set playing by the spectator treading upon its hidden machinery an eccen- 
 tricity of the Elizabethan garden. Spring Garden, by a patent which is extant, in 
 1630 was made a bowling-green by command of Charles I. " There was kept in it an 
 ordinary of six shillings a meal (when the King's proclamation allows but two else- 
 where) ; continual bibbing and drinking wine all day under the trees ; two or three 
 quarrels every week. It was grown scandalous and insufferable : besides, my Lord 
 Digby being reprehended for striking in the King's garden, he said he took it for a 
 common bowling-place, where all paid money for their coming in." (Mr. Garrard to 
 Lord Strafford.) 
 
 In 1634 Spring Garden was put down by the King's command, and ordered to be 
 hereafter no common bowling-place. This led to the opening of " a New Spring Gar- 
 den" (Shaver's Hall), by a gentleman-barber, a servant of the lord chamberlain's. 
 The old garden was, however, re-opened ; for 13th June, 1649, says Evelyn, " I treated
 
 746 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 divers ladies of my relations in Spring Gardens :" but 10th May, 1654, he records that 
 Cromwell and his partisans had shut up and seized on Spring Gardens, " w ch till now 
 had been y e usual rendezvous for the ladys and gallants at this season." 
 
 Spring Garden was, however, once more re-opened ; for, in A Character of England, 
 1659, it is described as 
 
 " The inclosnre not disagreeable, for the solemnness of the grove, the warbling of the birds, and as it 
 
 opens into the spacious walks at St. James's It is usual to find some of the young company 
 
 here till midnight; and the thickets of the garden seem to be contrived to all advantages of gallantry, 
 after they have refreshed with the collation, which is here seldom omitted, at a certain cabaret in the 
 middle of this paradise, where the forbidden fruits are certain trifling tarts, neat's tongues, salacious 
 meats, and bad Rhenish." 
 
 " The New Spring Garden"* at Lambeth (afterwards Vauxhall) was flourishing in 
 1661-3 ; when the ground at Charing Cross was built upon, as " Inner Spring Garden" 
 and " Outer Spring Garden." Buckingham-court is named from the Duke of Buck- 
 ingham, one of the rakish frequenters of Spring Garden ; and upon the site of Drum- 
 mond's banking-house was " Locket's Ordinary, a house of entertainment much 
 frequented by gentry," and a relic of the Spring Garden gaiety : 
 
 " For Locket's stands where gardens once did spring." 
 
 Dr. King's Art of Cookery, 1709. 
 
 In Outer Spring Garden lived, 1661, Sir Philip Warwick, author of the Memoirs 
 which bear his name : " Warwick-street, adjoining, was, I believe, named after him." 
 (Cunningham.) Here, too, lived Philip, Earl of Chesterfield, 1667-1670. Prince 
 Rupert resided here from 1674 to his death : 
 
 " 1682, Nov. 29. Died of a fever and pleurisy, at his house in the Spring Garden, Rupert, Prince 
 Palatine of the Rhine, &c., in the 63rd year of his age." Sietorian't Guide, 3rd edit. 1688. 
 
 Sir Edward Hungerford lived here in 1631, after he had parted with his estate for 
 the site of Hungerford Market. 
 
 Milton, when first appointed Latin secretary, lodged at one Thomson's, at Charing 
 Cross, opening into the Spring Garden. Here the witty and beautiful dramatist, Mrs. 
 Centlivre, died, December 1, 1723, at the house of her third husband, Joseph Centlivre, 
 " Yeoman of the Mouth" (head cook) to Queen Anne. Colley Gibber lived " near the 
 Bull-head Tavern, in Old Spring Garden," from 1711 to 1714. George Canning, in 
 1800, resided at No. 13, right-hand corner at Cockspur-street. 
 
 Spring Garden was formerly noted for its sights : the Incorporated Society of 
 Artists exhibited here ; here, in 1806, at Wigley's Rooms, were shown Serres's Pano- 
 rama of Boulogne ; foreign cities and sea-pieces j also Maillardet's automatic figures, 
 including a harpsichord-player, a rope-dancer, and a singing-bird. Here also was 
 exhibited Marshall's Peristrephic Panorama of the Battle of Waterloo, which the 
 spectators viewed turning round. 
 
 Berkeley House, on the right as you enter by the Spring-garden-gate, St. James's 
 Park, the mansion of the Berkeley family, was taken down in 1862, and upon its 
 site has been erected the chief office of the Metropolitan Board of Works, of poor but 
 pretentious design. 
 
 SQUARES. 
 
 rFHE garden-spaces or planted Squares are the most recreative features of our 
 J- metropolis ; in comparison with which the piazze, plazas, and places of continental 
 cities are wayworn and dusty areas, with none of the refreshing beauty of a garden or 
 green field : 
 
 "Fountains and trees our wearied pride do please, 
 Even in the midst of gilded palaces; 
 And in our towns the prospect gives delight, 
 Which opens round the country to our sight." 
 
 Sprat, quoted in Wren's Parentalia. 
 
 Yet the majority of the London Squares are the growth of the last century ; and few 
 
 * Named from the Garden at Charing Cross, as we do not trace any "water-spring" at Vauxhall. Sir 
 John Hawkins says : " Sir Samuel Morland having planted the large garden with stately trees, and 
 laid it out in shady walks, it obtained the name of Spring Gardens. There was likewise a 'New Spring 
 Garden* at Pimlico, the name having been applied to a public garden generally."
 
 SQUARES. 747 
 
 of the western Squares existed before 1 770 ; their sites being then mostly sheep-walks, 
 paddocks, and kitchen-gardens. It was at first attempted to name squares " quad- 
 rates :" in 1732 Maitland wrote, " the stately quadrate denominated King-square, but 
 vulgarly Spho-square ;" and the phrase is retained in Maitland's edition of 1756. 
 
 BEDFORD SQUARE, which appears in Harwood's Map, 1799, was formerly " St. 
 Giles's ruins." The centre house on the east side used to be the official residence of 
 the Lord Chancellor. Lord Loughborough lived there, and at the time of the Corn- 
 law Riots it was occupied by Lord Eldon. The mob made an attack on the house at 
 night, when Lord and Lady Eldon escaped over the back wall into the British Museum 
 Gardens, and took refuge in the guard-house. Here it was that the Prince of Wales 
 called upon the Chancellor, and got from him, as he lay in bed with gout, a vacant 
 Mastership in Chancery for the Prince's friend, Jekyll. The keystone over the en- 
 trance doorway of some of the houses displays a very fine made head. (Builder f 
 No. 651.) Some of the houses were designed by Sir William Chambers. 
 
 BELGRAVE, CHESTER, and EATON SQUARES, named from their ground-landlord, the 
 Marquis of Westminster, are noticed at p. 37 : the centres of the first and third 
 were nursery-grounds. At No. 19, Chester-square died, in 1852, Dr. Mantell, F.R.S., 
 the eminent geologist. 
 
 BERKELEY SQUARE, built 1698, is named from Berkeley House, which occupied the 
 site of Devonshire House. On the south side of this square is Lansdowne House (see 
 p. 551) : the beehive upon the gate-piers is one of the family crests. At No. 11 died 
 Horace Walpole in 1797. No. 44, built by Kent, has a noble staircase and saloon. 
 At No. 45 Lord Clive destroyed himself in 1774. A few link-extinguishers remain 
 flanking doorways : the trees in the centre are old and picturesque : here was formerly 
 an equestrian statue of George III. 
 
 BLOOMSBURT, first named SOUTHAMPTON, SQUARE, from Southampton House upon 
 its north side, was built by the Earl of Southampton, whose daughter, Lady Rachel 
 Russell, dates her Letters from here. Evelyn, in 1665, notes it as " a noble square or 
 piazza, a little towne," with " good aire." The site formerly constituted the manor of 
 Lomesbury, in which, according to Hughson, the kings of England anciently had their 
 stables until removed to the Mews, near Charing-cross. Coming into the hands of 
 the Russell family, by marriage with the Earl of Southampton, it was called first 
 Southampton-square, and then Bloomsbury-square. Bedford House has been ascribed 
 to Inigo Jones, but it would seem erroneously. It was built a few years after his 
 death. Thornhill's copies of RafFaelle's Cartoons were in one of the wings of this 
 house. It was sold by auction in the year 1800, and immediately pulled down. Pope 
 alludes to this once fashionable quarter of the town : 
 
 " In Palace-yard, at nine, you'll find me there, 
 At ten, for certain, sir, in Bloomsbury-square." 
 
 The Grand Duke Cosmo was taken to see Bloomsbury as one of the wonders of 
 England. Baxter, the Nonconformist divine, lived here when he was persecuted by 
 Judge Jeffreys. The Earls of Chesterfield had a mansion here. Sir Hans Sloane 
 lived on the south side ; and here Dr. Franklin came to see Sloane's Curiosities, " for 
 which," says Franklin, " he paid me handsomely." Dr. Radcliffe lived here when he 
 gave 520Z. to the poor Nonjuring clergy. Lord Mansfield's house was at the north- 
 east corner, when it was burnt to the walls by the rioters of 1780 ; and his books, 
 papers, and furniture made into a bonfire in the square. Lord and Lady Mansfield 
 escaped by a back door from the mob. On the north side is a bronze sitting statue of 
 Charles James Fox, by Westmacott. Ralph describes this side as " one of the finest 
 situations in Europe for a palace," with gardens and view of the country. Dr. Aken- 
 side, and the elder Mr. Disraeli, resided in this square. The latter compiled the 
 Curiosities of Literature in No. 6, which house was built in 1766, by Isaac Ware, the 
 editor of Palladia, originally a chimney-sweep, and whose skin, it is said, was so 
 engrained with soot, that he bore till his dying day the marks of his early calling. 
 
 BRIDGEWATER SQUARE, Barbican, was once the site of the mansion and gardens, 
 of the Earl of Bridgewater. " The middle is neatly enclosed with palisado pales 
 and set round with trees, which renders the place very delightful." Strype.
 
 74S CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 BRUNSWICK and MECKLENBURGH SQUARES, with the Foundling Hospital and 
 grounds between them, form an airy group ; northward is TOREINGTON SQUARE : 
 No. 55, residence of Sir Harris Nicolas, the genealogist. 
 
 BRYANSTON and MONTAGUE SQUARES were built on Ward's Field, and the site 
 of Apple Village, by David Porter, who was once chimney-sweeper to the village of 
 Marylebone. At St. Mary's Church, Bryanston-square, June 7, 1838, Miss Landon 
 (L. E. L.) was privately married, by her brother, to George Maclean, governor of Cape 
 Coast Castle. The Rev. Dr. Dibdhi was Rector (see p. 198). 
 
 CAVENDISH SQUARE (between two and three acres), named from the Lady Hen- 
 rietta Cavendish Holies, the wife of Harley, Earl of Oxford, was planned on the 
 north side of Tyburn-road in 1715, when the locality was infested by footpads, who 
 often robbed and stripped persons in the fields between London and Marylebone. Mar- 
 garet-street Chapel about seventy years since was an isolated building in Marylebone- 
 fields : a shady " Lover's Walk" passed close by the chapel to Manchester-square ; 
 another walk led through the fields to Paddington. The Square was laid out about 
 1717; the whole of the north side being taken by "the Grand Duke" of Chandos, 
 who proposed to build here a palatial residence, and to purchase all the property be- 
 tween Cavendish-square and his palace of Canons at Edgeware, so that he might 
 ride from town to the country through his own estate. In the British Museum is a 
 view of the mansion, designed by John Price : the wings only were built ; one being 
 the large mansion at the corner of Harley-street, which was occupied by the Princess 
 Amelia, aunt to George III. ; also by the Earl of Hopetoun, and the Hopes of 
 Amsterdam ; next by George Watson Taylor, Esq., who assembled here a very valu- 
 able collection of paintings. The other wing of the Duke's plan is the corresponding 
 mansion at the corner of Chandos-street. The centre is principally occupied by two 
 splendid mansions, with Corinthian columns, designed by James of Greenwich. At 
 this period Harcourt House on the west side was the only other house here : " it pre- 
 sents, with its high court-walls and porte-cochere, more the appearance of a Parisian 
 mansion than any other house in London." (S. Angell.) The ground was first sold 
 at 2s. 6d. per foot. In the centre of the Square is an equestrian metal statue of 
 William Duke of Cumberland ; and on the south side a colossal standing bronze statue 
 of Lord George Bentinck, third son of the Duke of Portland. Southward is Holies- 
 street, where, at No. 24, Lord Byron was born. Mr. Coke, in 1833, told Haydon, the 
 painter, that he remembered a fox killed in Cavendish-square, and that where Berke- 
 ley-square now stands was an excellent place for snipes. 
 
 CHARTERHOUSE SQUARE is described by Hatton (1708) as "a pleasant place of 
 good (and many new) buildings, the whole in the form of a pentagon." Here was 
 Rutland House, in which the Venetian ambassadors lodged. Baxter the Nonconformist 
 died in this square in 1691. It has been partly taken down. On the north side is 
 the CHARTERHOUSE, see pp. 85-88. 
 
 COVENT GARDEN, see pp. 292-296. 
 
 DEVONSHIRE SQUARE, Bishopsgate Without, " a pretty though very small square 
 inhabited by gentry and other merchants" (Hatton, 1708), was named from the Earls 
 of Devonshire having lived there in a mansion previously possessed by the Earl of 
 Oxford : " the Queen's majesty Elizabeth hath lodged there" (Stow.) The mansion 
 was built in the midst of gardens and bowling-alleys, by Jasper Fisher, one of the six 
 Clerks in Chancery, who thereby outrunning his income, the house was mockingly 
 called " Fisher's Folly." It next became a conventicle ; hence " Fisher's Folly con- 
 gregation" (Hudibras.) Here Murray and Dockwra set up the Penny Post in 1680. 
 Murray also introduced the Club of Commerce (one of a trade) ; and at Devonshire 
 House he opened a Bank of Credit, where money-bills were advanced upon goods de- 
 posited. 
 
 EUSTON SQUARE, St. Pancras, is named from the ground-landlords, the Dukes of 
 Grafton and Earls of Euston. Upon the site of the north side of the square, then a 
 nursery-garden, Dr. Wolcot, the political satirist (Peter Pindar), ended his misspent 
 life in blindness.
 
 SQUARES. 749 
 
 FINSBURY SQUARE was built in 1789, by George Dance, R.A., on the north side of 
 Moorfields. At the north-east corner lived the estimable Dr. Birkbeck, the founder of 
 Mechanics' Institutions : he died here December 1, 1841, the eighteenth anniversary of 
 the establishment of the first Mechanics' Institution in London. 
 
 FITZHOY SQUARE is named from Charles Fitzroy, second Duke of Grafton : the 
 E. and S. sides were commenced by W. and J. Adam in 1790. On the south side 
 lived Sir W. C. Ross, R.A., the celebrated miniature-painter; and at No. 7, Sir 
 Charles L. Eastlake, President of the Royal Academy. 
 
 GOLDEN SQUARE, Westminster, " not exactly in anybody's way, to or from any- 
 where," was " so called from the first builder, a very new and pleasant square" 
 (Hatton, 1708) ; contemporary evidence, more reasonable than Pennant's hearsay 
 anecdote that the name was Gelding, altered from the sign of a neighbouring inn. 
 One of its earliest inhabitants was Lord Bolingbroke, when secretary-at-war, 1704-8. 
 In the centre of the square is a statue of George II., formerly at Canons, near Edge- 
 ware. Golden-square is a locality of Smollett's Humphrey Clinker, and of Dickens's 
 Nicholas NicJcleby. 
 
 HAYDON SQUARE, Minories, is named from Alderman Haydon, the ground-landlord. 
 Close by were found, in 1852, sculptured gravestones and urns ; and in 1853 a sarco- 
 phagus ; all of Roman work. In Haydon-square lived Sir Isaac Newton when Master 
 of the Mint : the house was taken down about 1852. Here is Allsopp's Burton Ale 
 Dep6t, occupying 20,000 square feet ; cargoes of ale are sent here from Burton, by 
 railway (140 miles), in an afternoon ; and the platforms and wagons are lowered by 
 hydraulic cranes into the vast cellars. Here also is the spring of pure water, which 
 formerly supplied the priory of the Holy Trinity upon this spot. 
 
 GORDON SQUARE, New-road, has at the south-west angle the Catholic Apostolic 
 Church : cathedral-like Early English exterior, and Decorated interior, with a trifo- 
 riurn in the aisle-roof; the ceilings are highly enriched, and some of the windows are 
 filled with stained glass ; the northern doorway and porch, and the southern wheel- 
 window, equal old examples ; and gothic houses, with projections and gables, pointed- 
 headed windows, and traceried balconies, group around the church : .architects, Bran- 
 don and Ritchie. " Near the spot occupied by Gordon-square, a circular enclosure was 
 constructed, about the year 1803, for the exhibition of the " first locomotive," the pro- 
 duction of Trevithick. Its performance was then so satisfactory that a bet was offered 
 by the proprietors to match the engine to run a greater number of miles in twenty- 
 four hours than any horse that could be produced, but there were no takers. Com- 
 municated to The Builder. 
 
 GOUGH SQUARE, between Fetter-lane and Shoe-lane, contains the house, No. 17, 
 wherein Dr. Johnson compiled most of his Dictionary ; his amanuenses working in 
 the garrets. 
 
 GROSTENOR SQUARE, six acres, is named from Sir Richard Grosvenor, who died in 
 1732. The houses, some of rubbed bricks with stone finishings, are spacious. The 
 centre landscape-garden was laid out by Kent, and the stone pedestal in the centre 
 once bore an equestrian statue of George L; the line of fortification during the Civil 
 War ran across the space now the square. It is a place of high fashion ; and Dr. 
 Johnson once desired to be " Grosvenor of that ilk." Here lived Lord North and 
 John Wilkes ; and at No. 39 (the Earl of Harrowby's) his Majesty's Ministers were 
 to have dined on the evening the Cato-street conspirators had planned to assassinate 
 them, and to bring away the heads of Lords Liverpool and Castlereagh in two bags ! 
 
 HANOVER SQUARE, built about 1718, was named in honour of George I., when it 
 was proposed to change the place of execution from Tyburn elsewhere, lest the proces- 
 sion of malefactors might annoy the inhabitants of the new square. Here lived Field- 
 Marshal Lord Cobham, the owner of princely Stowe. Admiral Lord Rodney died here 
 in 1792. On the east side are the Hanover Square Rooms ; the great room is 90 feet 
 by 35 feet, and will hold 800 persons ; the ceiling was painted by Cipriani. No. 11 is 
 the Zoological Society; No. 12, the Royal Agricultural Society; and on the west 
 side is the Oriental Club (see p. 196). In Tenterden-street is the Royal Academy of
 
 750 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Music, founded in 1823, incorporated 1830. Upon the south side of Hanover- square 
 is a colossal bronze statue of William Pitt, by Chantrey. 
 
 " This square, in connexion with George-street, has always struck me as one of the most scenic 
 architectural displays that London presents : the street expanding towards the square, the unique and 
 elegant style of the surrounding mansions, the judicious mixture of red brick and stone, Chantrey's 
 statue, and the successful ecclesiastical work of James (St. George's), altogether produce the most 
 agreeable effect." S. Angell. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S SQUARE, between Pall Mall and Jermyn-street, is built on part of St. 
 James's Fields. Godfrey's print, from a drawing by Hollar, has a stone conduit near 
 the centre of the present square. Mr. Cunningham found several of its tenants rated in 
 *f the parish-books of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields in 1676 ; and among them, on the west 
 ' side, Madame Churchill, mistress of the Duke of York ; and Madame Davis (Moll Davis), 
 mistress of Charles II. On the north side was Romney House, where, in 1695 and 
 1697, King William III. visited the Earl of Romney, to witness fireworks in the 
 square; and in the latter year the Dutch Ambassador made before his house a 
 bonfire of 140 pitch-barrels, and wine was " kept continually running among the 
 common people." On the north side also was Ormond House, the mansion of the 
 great Duke of Ormond ; the duchess died here in 1684 ; in 1698 the house was let to 
 Count Tallard, the French Ambassador, for 600Z. per annum, then a large rent. In the 
 rear of the present houses is Ormond-yard, now a mews. Appletree-yard, opposite, 
 keeps in memory the apple-orchards of St. James's Fields. Hatton describes St. 
 James's-square, in 1708, '" very pleasant, large, and beautiful ; all very fine spacious 
 buildings (except that side towards Pall Mall), mostly inhabited by the prime quality." 
 Sutton Nicholls's print, 1720, shows a fountain in the centre of the square, with a basin, 
 " filled by contract, in 1727, with water from York-buildings." (Malcolm.) A 
 pedestal for an equestrian statue of William III. was erected in the centre of the 
 square in 1732 ; but the statue, cast in brass by the younger Bacon, was not set up 
 until 1808, the bequest in 1724 for the cost having been forgotten, until the money 
 was found in the list of unclaimed dividends. The Earl of Radnor had on the north 
 side a mansion, painted by Vanson, over doors and chimney-pieces ; the staircase by 
 Laguerre; and the apartments hung with pictures by Edema, Wyck, Roestraten, 
 Danckers, old Griffier, young Vandervelde, and Sybricht. At No. 7, lived Josiah Wedg- 
 wood, and here his stock of classic pottery was dispersed by auction. No. 2 is Lord 
 Falmouth's : the street-posts are cannon captured by his ancestor, Admiral Boscawen, 
 off Cape Finisterre. No. 4, Earl de Grey (see p. 548) ; the late Earl received here the 
 Royal Institute of British Architects. No. 6, Marquis of Bristol. No. 11, Right Hon. 
 William Windham; Lord Chief Justice Ellenborough in 1814; John Duke of Rox- 
 burghe; now the Wyndham Club (see p. 261). No. 12, London Library (see p. 522); 
 here lived Lord Amherst when Commander-in-Chief. No. 13, Lief/field House, was 
 built by Athenian Stuart for Lord Anson; from the balcony, on June 20, 181 5, the Prince 
 Regent displayed the trophies just received from Waterloo to the delighted populace. 
 No. 15 (Sir Philip Francis's) was lent by Lady Francis to Queen Caroline, in 1820, who 
 delighted to show herself at the drawing-room windows, and proceeded from thence 
 daily, in State, to her trial in the House of Lords ; at this time No. 16 was Lord 
 Castlereagh's. No. 17, the Duke of Cleveland's : here is Lely's fine whole-length 
 portrait of the Duchess of Cleveland. No. 19, the Bishop of Winchester. No. 21, 
 Norfolk House (see p. 554), occupies the site of the mansion of Henry Jermyn, Earl 
 of St. Alhans, who died here in 1683. No. 22 is London House, rebuilt in 1820 for 
 the Bishops of London. Upon the lower or Pall Mall side lived the father of H. R. 
 Morland, and grandfather of George Morland, all three painters. 
 
 LEICESTER SQUARE (see pp. 511-515.) 
 LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS (see pp. 527-529). 
 
 LOAVNDES SQUARE, Belgravia, was built 1837-1839, and named from the ground- 
 landlord, W. Selhy Lowndes, Esq. The seven houses at the south end, by Lewis 
 Cubitt, resemble an Italian palace, with embellished chimney-shafts, Tuscan cornice, 
 and Venetian balconies. The site of the square was once a coppice, which supplied the 
 Abbot and Convent of Westminster with wood for fuel.
 
 SQUARES. 751 
 
 MANCHESTER SQUARE was begun in 1776, by the building of Manchester House 
 upon the north side (see p. 552). At the north-west corner of the square is Man- 
 chester-street, where died, in 1814, the impostor, Joanna Southcott, after imposing 
 upon six medical men with the story of her being enceinte with the young " Shiloh." 
 
 MYDDELTON SQUARE, Islington, near the New River Head, is named from its origi- 
 nator, Sir Hugh Myddelton, the early engineer. 
 
 PORTMAN SQUARE, upon the estate of W. H. Portman, Esq., and once the property 
 of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, was begun about 1764, but not completed until 
 1784 ; it is 500 feet by 400. The centre is laid out as a shrubbery wilderness ; and 
 here is a moveable kiosk, constructed for the Turkish Ambassador about 1808, when he 
 resided at No. 18 ; his Excellency customarily took the air and smoked here, surrounded 
 by a party of his retinue. At the north-west angle is Montague' House (see p. 554) : 
 here were the feather-hangings sung by Cowper ; here Miss Burney was welcomed, and 
 Dr. Johnson grew tame. No. 15 (Duke of Leeds) : the architectural embellishments 
 of the staircase and principal rooms of this noble mansion, the rich mahogany doors, 
 sculptured marble chimney-pieces, and the cornices and ceilings, are all in the fine taste 
 of Robert Adam, who built the Adelphi-terrace. 
 
 PRINCE'S SQUARE. " As St. Giles's parish contains the largest square (Lincoln's 
 Inn Fields), so it also may boast of the smallest, which is situated near it namely, 
 Prince's Square, containing only one house " (Dobie), between Little Queen-street and 
 Gate-street ; a stone tablet is inscribed, " Prince's-square, 1736." 
 
 PRINCE'S SQUARE, Ratcliffe Highway. Here is the Swedish Church, in which is 
 interred Emanuel Swedenborg; in the vestry-room are a few portraits, including 
 that of Dr. Serenius, Bishop of Stregnas. About the year 1816 the cranium of 
 Swedenborg was taken from the coffin by a Swedish captain, but was replaced after 
 his death. 
 
 QUEEN SQUARE, Bloomsbury, built in the reign of Queen Anne, has a railed garden 
 for the north side. Jonathan Richardson, the painter, died here in 1745. At the 
 north-west corner Dr. John Campbell, editor of the Biographia Britannica, gave his 
 Sunday-evening conversation-parties, at which Dr. Johnson used to meet " shoals of 
 Scotchmen." On the south-west side is the church of St. George-the-Martyr, of which 
 Dr. Stukeley was rector (see p. 163) ; he lived in the square. 
 
 QUEEN SQUARE, Westminster, contains a statue of Queen Anne, mentioned in 
 1708. Here was born in 1684, Admiral Vernon, the hero of Portobello ; here lived the 
 Rev. C. M. Cracherode, who bequeathed his books, medals, and drawings to the British 
 Museum. In this square died, in 1784, Dr. Thomas Francklin, the erudite Greek 
 scholar. (QUEEN SQUARE CHAPEL, see p. 214). In 1832 died, aged 85, Jeremy 
 Bentham, in Queen-square-place, where he had resided for nearly half a century. 
 
 RED LION SQUARE, " a pleasant square of good buildings, between High Holborn 
 south, and the fields north" (Hatton, 1708), was named from the Red Lion Inn. In 1733, 
 Lord Chief Justice Raymond lived here ; Sharon Turner, the historian, lived many years 
 at No. 13 ; the benevolent Jonas Hanway, the traveller, lived and died (1786) here, in a 
 house, the principal rooms of which he had decorated with paintings and emblematical 
 devices, " in a style peculiar to himself :" Hanway was honoured with a public funeral. 
 Sir John Prestwick, in his Sepublica, tells us " Cromwell's remains were privately 
 interred in a small paddock near Holborn, on the spot where the obelisk in Red Lion- 
 square lately stood." Prestwick does not give his authority for this statement ; it 
 may be a blunder, caused by the bodies of Cromwell, Ireton, and Bradshaw being 
 carried from Westminster Abbey to the Med Lion Inn, Holborn, and the next day 
 dragged on sledges to Tyburn. (Wood's Athen. Oxon. art. " Ireton.") No. 13 is the 
 Mendicity Society. The author of A Tour through Great Britain notes : " This 
 present year, 1737, an Act was passed for beautifying Red Lyon-square, which had 
 run much to decay, and no doubt but Leicester-fields and Golden-square will soon follow 
 these good examples." 
 
 RUSSELL SQUARE, north of Bedford-square, occupies part of Southampton Fields
 
 752 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 (1720), subsequently Long Fields. Its dimensions are 665 feet 6 inches north side, 
 665 feet 3 incites south ; 672 feet 7 inches west ; and 667 feet 1 inch east 2665'! 
 feet square, or about 140 feet less than Lincoln's Inn Fields. In 1800 Long Fields 
 lay waste and useless, with nursery grounds northward ; the Toxopholite Society's 
 ground north-west; and Bedford House, with its lawn and magnificent lime-trees, 
 south. At the north-east end of Upper Montague-street was " the Field of Forty 
 Footsteps " (see p. 337). The east side of the square was the house and gardens of 
 the dissolute Lord Baltimore ; the mansion is now divided. 
 
 Bedford House stood across the present Woburn-place. At that time Bolton House, which occupied 
 the north extremity of the single line of houses forming Southampton-row, was the extreme of London 
 in that direction, for there was no building in the then clear open " Long-fields" between Bolton House 
 and the Southampton Arms Tea-garden at Camden-town, to which there was a footpath crossing the 
 New-road, leaving the Soot, immortalized by Dickens in Sarnaby Rudge at some distance on the 
 right. The view northward from Queen-square was then quite uninterrupted. Builder. 
 
 Here, in No. 21, Sir Samuel Romilly died by his own hand. Lord Chief Justice Tenter- 
 den died in No. 28. Baltimore House, at the corner of Guilford-street, was long the 
 residence of Wedderburn, Lord Chancellor Loughborough. Mr. Justice Talfourd was 
 resident at No. 67. Sir Thomas Lawrence lived for a quarter of a century in No. 65. 
 In the Gentleman's Magazine, the Rev. John Mitford notes : "We shall never forget 
 the Cossacks, mounted on their small white horses, with their long spears grounded, 
 standing sentinels at the door of this great painter, whilst he was taking the portrait of 
 their general, Platoff " (1818). On the north side is the picturesque bronze sitting 
 statue of Francis, Duke of Bedford, by Westrnacott. 
 
 SALISBURY SQTJABE (see FLEET-STKEET, p. 349) ; at the north-west corner was the 
 printing-office of Richardson, the novelist. 
 
 SOHO SQXTABE, originally King's-square, was begun in the reign of Charles II. j the 
 south side consisting of Monmouth House, built by Wren for the Duke of Monmouth, 
 and after his death purchased by Lord Bateman j in 1717 it was an auction room j part 
 of the site is now occupied by Bateman's-buildings. 
 
 J. T. Smith, in NolleTcens and his Times, describes the pulling down of Monmouth Souse, which he 
 witnessed : the gate entrance was of massive ironwork, supported by stone piers, surmounted by the 
 crest of the Duke of Monmouth ; and within the gates was a courtyard for carriages. The hall was 
 ascended by steps. There were eight rooms on the ground-floor : the principal one was a dining-room 
 towards the south, the carved and gilt panels of which had contained whole-length pictures. At corners 
 of the ornamented ceiling, which was of plaster, and over the chimney-piece, the Duke of Monmouth's 
 arms were displayed. The staircase was of oak, the steps very low, and the landing-places were tessel- 
 lated with woods of light and dark colours. Upon ornamented brackets were busts of Seneca, Cara- 
 calla, Trajan, Adrian, &c. The principal room on the first-floor was lined with blue satin, superbly 
 decorated with pheasants and other birds iu gold. The chimney-piece was richly ornamented with 
 fruit and foliage : iu the centre, within a wreath of oak-leaves, was a circular recess for a bust. The 
 beads of the panels of the brown window-shutters, which were very lofty, were gilt ; and the piers 
 between the windows had been filled with looking-glasses. The paved yard was surrounded by a red 
 brick wall, with heavy stone copings, 26 feet in height. 
 
 Shadwell, in his plays (1661), mentions " Soho-square ;" Maitland, 1739, " King's- 
 square," then a sort of Court quarter : Evelyn wintered " at Soho, in the great square," 
 in 1690. Bishop Burnet, the historian, lived here before he removed to Clerkenwell; his 
 Curiosities included the supposed " original Magua Charta," with part of the Great Seal 
 remaining. The shipwrecked remains of Sir Cloudesly Shovel lay in state in 1707. At the 
 corner of Greek-street, No. 1, was the mansion of Alderman Beckford, now the House of 
 Charity (see p. 211) ; and thither came the partisan City procession, who prevailed 
 upon Beckford to serve his second mayoralty, in commemoration of which he feasted the 
 poor of St. Anne's, Soho. At the corner of Sutton-street was Carlisle House, where 
 Mrs. Cornelys gave her concerts, balls, and masquerades ; the present Roman Catholic 
 chapel in Sutton-street having been Mrs. Cornelys's banquetting-room (connected with 
 the house by " the Chinese bridge "), and the gateway was the entrance for sedan- 
 chairs. In 1772 the " furniture, decorations, china, &c.," of Carlisle House were sold 
 by auction ; but it was re-opened in 1774 ; Mrs. Cornelys returned here iu 1776 ; and 
 it was next an exhibition-place of " monstrosities," a " School of Eloquence," and an 
 " Infant School of Genius;" it was closed in 1797, and taken down in 1803 or 1804; 
 some of its curious paintings were preserved ; and an account of Mrs. Cornelys's enter- 
 tainments has been privately printed by Mr. T. Mackinlay. (Dr. Eimbault ; Notes and 
 Queries, No. 28.) No. 20, " D'Almaine's," with a banqueting-room ceiling, said to have
 
 SQUARES. 753 
 
 been painted by Angelica Kauffniann, was built for Earl Tilney by Colin Campbell, 
 architect of Wanstead House. No. 32 was Sir Joseph Banks's, P.R.S., next the house 
 of the Liunean Society (see p. 598), exempted from the poor-rate in 1854 on account 
 of its being used for the purposes of science. (Court of Queen's Bench Rep. May 30.) 
 At a house in Soho-square, Richard Payne Knight, the classic antiquary (died 1824), 
 assembled his collection of ancient bronzes, and Greek coins, value 50,000/., which he 
 bequeathed to the British Museum. At the corner of Bateman's-buildings, left, lived 
 George Colman the elder ; and right, Samuel Beazley, the dramatist, and architect of 
 the Lyceum and St. James's theatres. The Soho Bazaar (north-west corner) is 
 described at p. 35. In the centre of the square is a pedestrian statue of Charles II. 
 (See FOITXTAIXS, p. 356.) In Frith-street, on the south side of the square, died of 
 cholera, in 1830, William Hazlitt, the eloquent essayist : he was buried in St. Anne's 
 churchyard, where is " a stone raised by one whose heart is with him in his grave." 
 Frith-street is named " from Mr. Fryth, a great (and once rich) builder" (Hatton) ; 
 Maitlaiid calls it " Thrift-street." 
 
 TAVISTOCK SQTJABE, Euston-road, is named from the ground-landlord, the Duke of 
 Bedford, and Marquis of Tavistock. 
 
 Southward is Taviitock-place. At Xo. 31 lived Mary Ann Clarke, mistress of the Duke of York ; at 
 No. 32, Francis Douce, the illustrator of Shakspeare, and subsequently, in the same house John Gait 
 when editor of the Courier; at No. 19, Sir Harris Nicolas, K.C.M.G., the peerage antiquary; and at 
 No. 10, John Britton, before he removed to No. 17, Burton-street. In Tavistock-place, at No. 37, 
 Francis Baily, F.R.S., President of the Royal Astronomical Society, lived from 1825 to 1840. The 
 house stands isolated in a garden, so as to be free from any material tremor from passing carriages. A 
 small observatory was constructed in the upper part ; and herein Mr. Baily contrived a pair of scales 
 that enabled him approximately to weigh the earth. The house and room are engraved and described 
 in Things not generally Known, 1856. " The building in which the earth was weighed, and its bulk 
 and figure calculated, the standard measure of the British nation perpetuated, and the Pendulum ex- 
 periments rescued from their chief source of inaccuracy, can never cease to be an object of interest to 
 astronomers of future generations." Sir John Herschel, Sart. 
 
 TRAFALGAR SQTJAEE, Charing Cross, formed by the removal of the lower end of St. 
 Martin's-lane, a knot of courts and alleys, the Golden Cross inn,* and low buildings 
 adjoining, was planned by Barry, and is named from the last victory of Nelson, to whom 
 a column is erected on the south side (see p. 283) : the four colossal bronze lions at the 
 base of the pedestal, modelled by Sir E. Landseer, R.A., were added in 1867. The 
 whole square is paved with granite, has two large tanks with fountains (see p. 357), and 
 has on the north side a terrace, which imparts elevation to the National Gallery facade. 
 At the north-east and north-west angles are granite pedestals ; the former occupied 
 by Chantrey's bronze equestrian statue of George IV., intended for the top of the 
 marble arch at Buckingham Palace. The granite capstan posts in the area are charac- 
 teristic ; but the square has been condemned as " an artificial stone-quarry." The 
 massive lanterns at the angles were originally designed by Barry for Bude-lights. 
 
 In 1831, upon the ground cleared for Trafalgar-square, was exhibited in a pavilion 
 the entire skeleton of a Greenland Whale, taken off the coast of Belgium in 1827 ; 
 total length, 95 feet; breadth, 18 feet; width of tail, 22^ feet; length of head, 22 
 feet ; height of cranium, 4j feet ; length of fins, 12| feet ; weight of animal, 249 tons, 
 or 480,0001b. ; weight of skeleton, 35 tons, or 70,0001b. ; oil extracted, 4000 gallons. 
 The skeleton was raised upon iron supports, and visitors ascended within the ribs 
 by a flight of steps. It had been previously exhibited at Paris, where Cuvier and 
 others estimated the age of this whale at from 900 to 1000 years. (See Mirror, 
 August 13, 1831.) 
 
 VINCENT SQTTABE, Westminster, a portion of Tothill Fields, is named after Dr. 
 Vincent, then Dean of Westminster. Here is the church of St. Mary the Virgin, con- 
 secrated 1837 : style, Early Pointed, with lancet windows ; architect, E. Blore. 
 
 WELLCLOSE SQUARE was originally called Marine-square, from its being a favourite 
 residence of naval officers. " It is very near a geometrical square, whose area is about 
 2f acres ; it is situated between Knockfergus north and Ratcliff Highway south." 
 (Hatton, 1708.) Here is the Danish (now Sailors') Church. In Well-street, ad- 
 
 * April 23, 1613, it was ordered by Parliament that the sign of the Golden Cross, at Charing-cross 
 be taken down, as superstitious and idolatrous ! 
 
 3 c
 
 754 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 joining, was the Royalty Theatre, burnt down April 11, 1826 ; upon the site was built 
 the Brunswick Theatre ; it was performed in only three nights, and fell to the ground 
 Feb. 28, 1828 ; within six months of which was built upon the same site the Sailors' 
 Home. 
 
 WOBTJEN SQTTAEE, St. Pancras, named from a seat of the Duke of Bedford, has in 
 the centre a Pointed church, by L. Vulliamy, built in 1834: the spire is 150 feet high. 
 
 STATE COACHES. 
 
 THE " glistering coach" (Shakspeare) dates from the reign of Queen Elizabeth, who, 
 April 2, 1571, at the meeting of Parliament, rode for the first time in a coach, 
 drawn by two palfreys, covered with crimson velvet housings, richly embroidered : but 
 this was the only carriage in the procession ; the Lord Keeper, and the Lords spiritual 
 and temporal, all attending on horseback. In 1588 the Queen went from Somerset 
 Place to St. Paul's Cross, to return thanks after the destruction of the Spanish Armada, 
 in a coach presented to her by Henry Earl of Arundel, and called by Stow " a chariot- 
 throne." In a print in the Crowle Pennant, in the British Museum, representing 
 Queen Henrietta-Maria doing penance beneath the gallows at Tyburn, Charles I. is 
 seated in a large and ornamented coach ; but this print is apocryphal. 
 
 The Coach of Queen Anne had its panels painted by Sir James Thornhill ; and a 
 friend of J. T. Smith possessed a portion of a panel. This coach was used by George I. 
 and II., and by George III. when he first opened Parliament, and also at his marriage; 
 after which it was broken up, and the State Carriage now used by the sovereign was 
 built. 
 
 THE QUEEN'S STATE COACH, sometimes called the " Coronation Coach," was de- 
 signed by Sir William Chambers, R.A., who recommended Joseph Wilton, R.A., and 
 the sculptor Pigalle, to conduct the building of the carriage. The model was executed 
 from Chambers's design by Laurence Anderson Holme, a Dane. 
 
 Wilton was appointed state-coach carver to the King, and erected workshops opposite Marylebone- 
 flelds, on the south side of what was afterwards named Queen Anne-street East, now called Foley-place, 
 and occupying the large house now remaining at the south-east corner of Portland-street, adjoining. 
 Here Geo. III.'s state-coach was built ; the small model of which [in wax, by Capitsoldi and Voyers, the 
 panels painted in water-colours by Cipriani], I, when a boy, was carried to see by Mr. Nollekens and my 
 father, it being then preserved in a back shop, where it remained for many years. J. T. Smith's 
 Nollekens and his Times, ii. 172. 
 
 The carriage is composed of four tritons, who support the body by cables : the two 
 placed on the front bear the driver on their shoulders, and are sounding shells ; and 
 those on the back part carry the imperial fasces, topped with tridents. The driver's 
 footboard is a large scallop-shell, supported by marine plants. The pole resembles a 
 bundle of lances ; and the wheels are in imitation of those of ancient triumphal chariots. 
 The body of the coach is composed of eight palm-trees, which, branching out at the 
 top, sustain the roof : at each angle are trophies of British victories. On the centre of 
 the roof stand boy-genii of England, Scotland, and Ireland, supporting the imperial 
 crown, and holding the sceptre, the sword of state, and ensigns of knighthood ; from 
 their bodies festoons of laurel fall thence to the four corners of the roof. The intervals- 
 between the palm-trees, which form the body of the coach, are filled in the tipper part 
 with plate-glass, and the panels below with paintings as follow : 
 
 Front Panel. Britannia on a throne, holding a staff of liberty, attended by Religion, Justice, 
 Wisdom, Valour, Fortitude, Commerce, Plenty, and Victory, presenting her with a garland of laurel j 
 background, St. Paul's and the Thames. 
 
 Right Door. Industry and Ingenuity giving a cornucopia to the Genius of England. Side Panels. 
 History recording the reports of Fame, and Peace burning the implements of War. 
 
 Sack Panel. Neptune and Amphitrite in a car drawn by sea-horses, attended by the Winds, Givers, 
 Tritons, Naiads, &c., bringing the tribute of the world to Britain. 
 
 Upper Part of Sack Panel. The lioyal Arms, ornamented with the order of St. George, the Golden 
 Fleece, the rose, shamrock, and thistle entwined. 
 
 Left Door. Mars, Minerva, and Mercury supporting the imperial crown. Side Panels. The Arts- 
 and Sciences protected. 
 
 The body is lined with scarlet embossed velvet, superbly laced and embroidered with 
 the star, encircled by the collar of the order of the Garter, and surmounted by the 
 imperial crown, pendant the George and Dragon ; in the corners, the rose, shamrock,
 
 STATE COACHES. 755 
 
 and thistle entwined. The badges of St. Michael, St. George, the Guelph and Bath, 
 St. Andrew, and St. Patrick are also among the embroidery. The hammercloth is of 
 scarlet velvet, with gold badges, ropes, and tassels. The length of the carriage and 
 body is 24 feet ; width, 8 feet 3 inches ; height, 12 feet; length of pole, 12 feet 4 
 inches ; weight, 4 tons. The carving was mostly executed by Nicholas Collett, a little 
 man, whom Waldron the actor (originally a carver in wood) delighted to call " a 
 Garrick of a carver." The panels were painted by Cipriani, who received for the same 
 8QOI. The chasing was executed by Coit, the coachwork by Butler, the embroidery 
 by Barrett, the gilding (triple throughout) by Rujolas, the varnishing by Ansel, and the 
 harness by Ringstead. The whole cost was as follows : 
 
 Coachmaker (including Wheelwright and Smith) . . 1637 15 
 
 Carver 2500 
 
 Gilder 935 14 
 
 Painter 315 
 
 Laceman 737 10 7 
 
 Chaser 665 4 6 
 
 Harnessmaker 385 15 
 
 Mercer 202 5 10J 
 
 Beltmaker 99 6 6 
 
 Milliner 31 3 4 
 
 Saddler 10 16 6 
 
 Woollendraper 436 
 
 Covermaker 396 
 
 7528 4 34 
 
 The bill was 8000Z. ; but being taxed, was reduced as above, the odd pence arising 
 from the ribbon-weaver's bill. The superb hammercloth, of scarlet silk Genoa velvet, 
 with gold badges, fringes, ropes, and tassels, was renewed in 1838. The Royal State 
 Coach was first used Nov. 16, 1762. Walpole writes to Sir Horace Mann : 
 
 "There is come forth a new state-coach, which has cost 8000Z. It is a beautiful object, though 
 crowded with improprieties. Its supports are Tritons, not very well adapted to land carriage ; and 
 formed of palm-trees, which are as little aquatic as Tritons are terrestrial. The crowd to see it, on the 
 opening of the Parliament, was greater than at the coronation, and much more mischief done." 
 
 The Coach was kept in a shed at the King's Mews, Charing Cross ; upon the taking 
 down of which, it was removed to the Royal Mews, Pimlico, where also is kept the 
 State Harness for the eight horses by which the carriage is drawn when used by the 
 sovereign. The Coach and Harness may be inspected upon application. The new 
 hammercloth in the reign of William IV. cost 5001. (See MEWS, ROYAL, p. 565.) 
 
 THE LOED MAYOR'S STATE COACH is kept at the City Green-yard, Whitecross- 
 street, Cripplegate, opposite the Debtors' Door : the coach may be here inspected. It 
 was built in 1757, by a subscription of 601. from each of the junior aldermen, or such 
 as had not passed the civic chair. Subsequently, each alderman, when sworn into office, 
 contributed 601. towards keeping the coach in repair ; for which purpose also each 
 Lord Mayor gave 1001. In a few years, the whole expense fell upon the Lord Mayor, 
 and in one year it exceeded 300?. The coach was then transferred to the Corporation, 
 and it has since been kept in repair by the Committee of General Purposes. Twenty 
 years after its construction, the repairs in one year cost 335Z. ; and the average of seven 
 years' repairs in the present century was 115Z. The design of the coach is more mag- 
 nificent than graceful : the carriage consists of a pair of grotesque marine figures, who 
 support the seat of the driver, with a large scallop-shell as a foot-board ; at the hind- 
 standard are two children bearing the City arms, beneath which is a large pelican ; 
 the perch is double, and terminates in dolphins' heads; and the four wheels are richly 
 carved and gilt, and resemble those of ancient triumphal chariots. The body is nofc 
 hung upon springs, but upon four thick red leather straps, fastened with large gilt- 
 brass buckles of spirited design, each bearing the City arms. The roof was originally 
 ornamented with eight gilt vases ; in the centre is a leafy crown, bearing the City 
 arms, and from which small gilt flowers trail over the remainder of the roof, painted 
 red : originally, a group of four boys supporting baskets of fruits and flowers occupied 
 the centre. The upper intervals of the body, save at the back, are filled with plate- 
 glass ; and the several lower panels are painted as follow : 
 
 Front Panel. faith supporting a deerenit figure beside a flaming altar ; Hope pointing to St. 
 Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 3 c 2
 
 756 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Back. Charity; a wrecked sailor, with a ship in the offing, and two females casting money and 
 fruits into his lap. 
 
 Upper Sack. The City, attended by Neptune ; Commerce introducing the Arab with his horse, and 
 other traders with the camel, elephant, &c. 
 
 Kight Door. Fame, with her wreath, presenting a Lord Mayor to the City, who bears the sword and 
 sceptre, the mace, &c., at her feet. In the very small panel beueath are fruit and flowers. Side Panel*. 
 Beauty with her mirror ; female with bridled horse, &c. 
 
 Left Door. The City seated, and Britannia pointing with her spear to a shield inscribed with " Henri 
 Fitz-Alwin, 1189" (the first Mayor). In the very small panels beneath are the scales of justice and 
 sword of mercy, grouped. Side Panels. Justice with her scales and sword; Prudence, &c. 
 
 The original heraldic paintings were executed by Catton. one of the foundation mem- 
 bers of the Royal Academy. In shields at the lower angles of each door, and of the 
 back and front panels, are emblazoned the arms of the Lord Mayor for the time being. 
 The framework is richly carved and gilt : over each door is a scallop-shell ; and at the 
 lower angles of the body are dwarf figures emblematic of the four quarters of the globe. 
 The smaller enrichments about the panels, as shells, fruits, and flowers, are admirably 
 carved and grouped : over the upper back panel is an exquisite bit a serpent and dove. 
 The perch and wheels are painted red, picked out with gold ; and massive gilt bosses 
 cover the wheel-boxes : the wheels were renewed in 1828. The coach is lined with 
 crimson corded silk and lace; and in the centre is a seat for the mace and sword 
 bearers. The hammercloth is crimson cloth, but the original one was of gold lace. 
 
 This coach was repaired, new-lined, and regilt in 1812, at an expense of 6001., when 
 also a new seat-cloth was furnished for 90Z. ; and in 1821 the re-lining cost 2061. In 
 1812, Messrs. Houlditch agreed to keep the coach in fair wear-and-tear for ten years, 
 at 48. per annum. The total weight of the coach is 3 tons 16 cwt. : it is drawn by 
 six horses, for whom a superb state harness was made in 1833, that for each horse 
 weighing 1061b. 
 
 It is not positively known by whom this coach was carved, nor by whom the panels 
 were painted. Cipriani is stated by some to be the painter ; but others assert that 
 after the present Royal State Coach was built in 1762, the old Royal State Coach was 
 purchased by the City of London, and the panels re-painted by Dance : such is the 
 statement of Smith, in Nollekens and his Times ; but in the Report of the Municipal 
 Corporation Commissioners, the City Coach is stated to have been built in 1757. The 
 Lord Mayor rode in state upon horseback until 1712, when a state carriage, drawn by 
 iour horses, was first used. In 1741 the horses were increased to six. This State 
 Coach is represented in Hogarth's print of the Industrious Apprentice, date 1747 ; it 
 is somewhat plain, but has ornamental vases upon the roof. In 1762, Lord Mayor 
 Beckford purchased the very fine set of Flanders mares of M. Boreel, Ambassador of the 
 States General to the Court of St. James's ; and they were used in Beckford's Mayoral- 
 ties. Every time the City State Coach is used, it costs the Lord Mayor 201. : Alderman 
 Samuel Wilson used the coach twelve times in his Mayoralty, 1839-40. (See LORD 
 MAYOE'S STATE, pp. 536^538.) 
 
 "Our Lord Mayor and his golden coach, and his gold-covered footmen and coachman, and his golden 
 chain, and his chaplain, and his great sword of state, please the people, and particularly the women and 
 girls, and when they are pleased the men and boys are pleased ; and many a young fellow has been more 
 industrious and attentive from his hope of one day riding in that golden coach." Collett. 
 
 THE SPEAKER'S STATE COACH is traditionally said to have been Oliver Cromwell's ; 
 but it is more probably of the time of William III. It is elaborately carved and 
 heavily gilt. Figures of naval and military prowess, Plenty, &c., support the body j 
 the box is held by two larger figures of Plenty ; the hammercloth is of crimson velvet, 
 trimmed with silver fringe ; and the footboard is borne by two lions, and surmounted 
 with a large grotesque mask. The hind-standard is richly carved with figures and 
 devices of antique and modern design. The framework of the panels is finely carved ; 
 and the roof has a pierced parapet or gallery. The upper, side, and front panels are 
 filled with splendid Vauxhall plates of glass. The lower panels are painted with 
 emblematic subjects : the door-panel has a seated figure of Britannia, to whom female 
 figures are bringing fruits, the horn of plenty, &c. The opposite door has also a seated 
 figure, and another presenting the Bill of Rights, with Liberty, Fame, and Justice. 
 Beneath each door and panel are sculptured maces, surmounted with a cap, emblematic 
 of the Speaker's authority. In the four side panels are emblematic figures of 
 Literature, Architecture, Science, and Plenty. The back panel has a better composi-
 
 STATUES. 757 
 
 tion of Britannia, wearing a mural crown ; St. Paul's Cathedral, shipping, &c., in the 
 distance. The front panel also bears several allegorical figures. In the lower part of 
 the pictures in the principal panels are emblazoned the Speaker's arms, and in the side- 
 panel pictures his crest. The coach is lined and trimmed with dark crimson velvet ; 
 it has two seats, and a centre one : on the latter sit the Speaker's Mace-bearer and 
 Sword-bearer j and his Chaplain and Train-bearer sit facing the Speaker. This coach 
 is used by the Speaker on opening Parliament, presenting addresses to the sovereign, 
 attending levees, &c., when it is drawn by a pair of horses in state harness. The coach 
 is kept at the Speaker's stables, Millbank. 
 
 T 
 
 STATUES. 
 HE following are the principal out-door Statues in the Metropolis : 
 
 Statues. Sites. Sculptors. 
 
 " ACHILLES" ...... Hyde Park Westmacott. 
 
 This group is strangely miscalled "Achilles;" it being copied from one of the statues on Monte 
 Cavallo, at Rome, which are called Castor and Pollux by the Italian antiquaries Venuti and Vasi, and by 
 Flaxman named Bellerophon. The inscription bronze letters have been stolen ! 
 
 ALBEBT, PHINCB Lloyd's, Royal Exchange . . . Lough. 
 
 ALFBKD, KING Trinity-square, Newington. 
 
 ANNE, QUEEN OF JAMKS I. . Temple Bar Bushnell. 
 
 ANNE, QUEEN Queen-square, Bloomsbury. 
 
 ANNE, QUEEN Queen-square, Westminster. 
 
 ANNE, QUEEN St. Paul's Churchyard . . . . F. Bird. 
 
 ASKE, ROBERT Hospital, Hoxton. 
 
 BEDFORD, DUKE o* . . . . Bedford-square Westmacott. 
 
 BBNTINCK, LORD GEORGE . . Cavendish-square Campbell. 
 
 CANNING, GEORGE .... New Palace-yard Westmacott. 
 
 CA.BTWRIGHT, MAJOR . . . Burton-crescent Clarke. 
 
 CHARLES I Charing Cross Le Soeur. 
 
 "This noble equestrian statue," says Walpole, "in which the commanding grace of the figure and 
 the exquisite form of the horse are striking to the most unpractised eye, was cast in 1633, on a spot of 
 ground near the church in Covent Garden ; and not being erected before the commencement of the Civil 
 War, it was sold by the Parliament to John Rivet, a brazier, living at the Dial, near Holborn Conduit, 
 with strict orders to break it in pieces. But the man produced some fragments of old brass, and con- 
 cealed the statue and horse underground till the Restoration." M. d'Archenholz relates " that he cast a 
 vast number of handles of knives and forks in brass, which he sold as made of the broken statue. They 
 were bought with eagerness by the Royalists, from affection to their monarch by the rebels as a mark 
 of triumph over their murdered sovereign." Walpole adds that " they had been made at the expense of 
 the family of Howard-Arundel ;" but Mr. Cunningham refers to a memorandum in the State- Paper Office, 
 from which he concludes this statue to have been ordered by the Lord Treasurer Weston, afterwards 
 Earl of Portland, of Hubert Le Sceur, " for the casting of a horse in brasse, bigger than a great horse by 
 a foot; and the figure of his Majesty King Charles proportionable, full six foot;" to be set up in the 
 Lord Treasurer's gardens at Roehampton, in Surrey (see Hand-Book of London, 2nd edit. p. 106). At the 
 Restoration,* an order of replevin was issued by the House of Lords, upon the information of the Earl 
 of Portland (son of the Lord Treasurer), for the recovery of the statue from Rivet; but it was not setup 
 until 1674, when Waller wrote his courtly lines " On the Statue 'of King Charles I. at Charing Cross." 
 There is an idle story that Le Sceur, having finished the statue, defied any one to point out a defect in 
 the work; when, on a person denoting the absence of the girth, the sculptor, in a fit of indignation, 
 destroyed himself. The assertion of the horse not having a girth is quoted by Malcolm from The 
 Medley for August, 1719 ; but there is a girth, which passes over a very strong rein on the right. In 
 1810, the sword, buckles, and straps fell from the statue ; and about the coronation of Queen Victoria in 
 1838, when seats were erected round the group, the sword (a rapier of Charles's period), was stolen. 
 The George pendent from the ribbon has also been taken away, as denoted by the vacant hole in the 
 metal where the George should hang. 
 
 The stone pedestal, sculptured with the royal arms, trophies, &c., was long admired as the work of 
 Gibbons; but a written account proves it to be by Joshua Marshall, Mascer Mason to the Crown. On 
 the 29th of May (Restoration Day) this statue was formerly decorated with boughs of oak. In the spring 
 of 1853 a cast of the statue and pedestal was taken by Brucciani, for the Crystal Palace at Sydenham : 
 for the moulds and casts, 37 tons of plaster and 15 tons of iron were used. The folio wing measurements 
 were also then taken : Pedestal, 13ft. Sin. high; 9 ft. 11 in. long ; 5 ft. 7 in. wide. Statue: height from 
 foot to top of horse's head, 7 ft. 8 in. ; plinth to top of figure, 9 ft. 2 j in. ; plinth to neck of horse, 6 ft. 5 
 plinth to top of hind-quarters, 5 ft. 10 in. ; length from head to tail, 7 ft. 9 in. ; circumference of horse 
 from back of saddle-cloth, 8ft. 2 in.; round chest and hind-quarters, 16ft. The metal casting around 
 the left fore-foot of the horse bears HVBEH(T) LE SVEVR (FE)CIT 1633. 
 
 " Although taken soon after Charles's accession, and at a time when sorrow could hardly have been 
 put upon him, yet the character of melancholy is deeply impressed on the countenance. The horse is 
 superb : the action is that which is taught in the menage, the motion of the legs showing the spirit of 
 the animal ; yet the action is not that of progressing, it is a movement that would not communicate 
 motion to the body, but leaves the rider perfectly undisturbed; the bridle falls almost loose upon the 
 
 * In this year a statue of the King was restored in the City : " May 7, 1660. Charles the First his 
 Statue set up again in Guildhall-yard." -Jlintor. Guide, 1688.
 
 758 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 neck; nor does the well-taught steed disturb the reverie of thought expressed in the countenance of its 
 master." Times, Sept. 1, 1838. 
 
 Statues. Sites. Sculptors. 
 
 CHARLES I Temple Bar Bushnell. 
 
 CHARLES II Temple Bar Bushnell. 
 
 CHARLES II. . . , . . . . Soho-square. 
 
 CHARLES II Chelsea Hospital Gibbons. 
 
 CLAYTON, SIB ROBERT . . .St. Thomas's Hospital. 
 
 CORAM, CAPT Foundling Hospital Calder Marshall. 
 
 The worthy founder of this institution appears in the same style of dress that he wore in life the 
 flowing wig, the long waistcoat, and broad-tailed open coat : in one hand he holds the charter of the 
 hospital. The countenance is most animated and expressive, as if talking to Hogarth, or some others 
 who worked with him in establishing this foundation. No one will say that the costume of this statue 
 is un picturesque as treated; and the circumstance ought to encourage us at the present day boldly to 
 delineate our great men in the form in which they appeared on the stage of life. 
 
 CROSBY, SIB JOHN .... Crosby Hall (front) Nixon. 
 
 CUMBERLAND, DUKE o . . Cavendish-square Chew. 
 
 ELIZABETH, QUEEN . . . .St. Dunstan's, Fleet-street. 
 
 EDWABD VI Christ's Hospital. 
 
 EDWARD VI St. Bartholomew's Hospital. 
 
 EDWARD VI .St. Thomas's Hospital .... Scheemakers. 
 
 ELDOIT, EARL OF . . . . . School, Wandsworth-road. 
 
 C. J. Fox Bloomsbury- square Westmacott. 
 
 FRANKLIN, SIB JOHIT . . . Waterloo-place Noble. 
 
 The statue, 8ft. 4 in. high, bronze; pedestal, polished granite. The likeness has been pronounced 
 by Lady Franklin and others who knew her husband best, to be characteristic and excellent. The 
 moment selected for representation in the statue is when Franklin was addressing his officers and crew, 
 and telling them that the North-west Passage had at last been discovered. 
 
 The bas-relief on the front of the pedestal represents the funeral of Franklin, at which Captain 
 Crpzier reads the burial service. He is surrounded by the other sorrowing officers and crew of the two 
 ships, the Erebus and Terror. It is well known that not one of the whole number of these brave fellows 
 ever returned. Their names, with) the name of Franklin himself, are recorded on bronze panels at 
 the side of the memorial. In the panel at the back of the tribute there is an embossed bronze chart 
 of the Arctic regions, showing the position of the two ships and their crews at the time of the death of 
 Franklin. The pedestal is further adorned with bronze cable cornice moulding at the plinth, enriched 
 with oak-leaves and acorns. 
 
 GEORGE I St. George's Church, Bloomsbury. 
 
 GEOHGB II Golden-square. 
 
 GEORGE II Leicester-square Buchard. 
 
 For the strange history of this statue, see LEICESTER-SQUARE, pp. 611-515. 
 
 GEORGE III. (equestrian) . . Berkeley-square Beaupre'. 
 
 The statue executed in lead under the direction of Wilton, B.A. 
 
 GEORGE III Somerset House Bacon. 
 
 GEORGE III Cockspur-street Wyatt. 
 
 GEORGE IV. Trafalgar-square Chantrey. 
 
 In modelling the horse standing still on all four legs, Chantrey has given the sanction of his name to 
 a bold and judicious innovation on the old custom of representing horses ia statues either curveting or 
 ambling. The horse was modelled for the statue of Sir Thomas Munro. 
 
 GUABDS MEMOBIAL .... Waterloo-place Bell. 
 
 A granite pedestal: three guardsmen, bronze; figure of Honour distributing coronals, bronze; 
 pyramid of cannon; inscription : " To. the memory of 2162 officers and men of the Brigade of Guards 
 who fell during the war in Russia, 1854, 1855, 1856." 
 
 GUY, THOMAS . ..... Guy's Hospital Scheemakers. 
 
 HANDEL, G. F Sacred Harmonic Society . . . Roubiliac. 
 
 HENRY VIII St. Bartholomew's Hospital. 
 
 HEBBERT, LOBD War Office, Pall Mall .... Foley. 
 
 A bronze statue 9 ft. in height, on a carved granite pedestal, the lower grey and the upper portion a 
 beautiful specimen of red granite. Let into the granite on three of its sides are three bag reliefs, also 
 in bronze, illustrative of subjects to which Lord Herbert chiefly devoted his attention whilst filling the 
 office of Secretary of State for War. On the face of the pedestal, beneath the words " Sidney Herbert " 
 cut deeply into the granite, are the armorial bearings of the family in bronze (with the old French 
 motto, " Ung je servirai"), and on the sides are the dates of his birth and death viz., "Bornl6tb 
 Sept., 1810," on the east side, and on the west, " Died August 2, 1861." On the southern side is a 
 bronze tablet, inscribed, " Erected by public subscription, 1867." The tablet in front of the statue or 
 northern side, facing Pall-mall, represents an incident in the " Herbert Hospital," Woolwich, Miss 
 Nightingale instructing nurses in their duties of tending wounded and sick soldiers very good. On 
 the east side is a bos relief, representing the volunteer movement, in which a battalion of volunteers 
 are seen marching ; whilst that on the west side exhibits the process of casting and testing the first 
 Armstrong gun at Woolwich, which event occurred during the administration of Lord Herbert hi the 
 post of War Minister. 
 
 HAVELOCK, SIB HENRY . . Trafalgar-square Behnes. 
 
 Statue bronze : inscription upon pedestal : "To Major-General Sir Henry Havelock, K.C.B., and his 
 brave companions during the campaign in India. ' Soldiers, Your labours, your privations, your 
 sufferings, and your valour will not be forgotten by a grateful country ! H. Havelock.' " The in- 
 scription on the back of the pedestal is as follows: "The force commanded by Havelock consisted of 
 the Staflj cavalry, Volunteers, 12th and 13th Irregulars, 3rd Oude Irregulars: Royal Artillery 3rd
 
 STATUES, 759 
 
 Company, 8th Battalion ; Bengal Artillery 2nd Company, 3rd Battalion ; 1st Company, 5th Battalion ; 
 6th Company, 9th Battalion ; Bengal Engineers; Infantry 5th Fusiliers, 81th Regiment, Gith Regi- 
 ment, 90th Light Infantry, 78th Highlanders, 1st Madras Fusiliers, Ferozepore Regiment of Sikhs. 
 Behnes, sculpsit." 
 
 Statuea. Site*. Sculptor*. 
 
 HUNTER, JOHN College of Surgeons Weekes. 
 
 HUSKISSOX, WILLIAM . . . Lloyd's, Royal Exchange . . . Lough. 
 
 JAMES I Temple I5ar Bushnell. 
 
 jAMbs II Whitehall Gardens Gibbons. 
 
 The doubt which long prevailed respecting the artist of this statue has been cleared up by the 
 following passage in the Autobiography of Sir John Sramtston, printed by the Camden Society. "On 
 New Year's day, 1686, a statue in brass was to be seen (placed the day before) in the yard at Whitehall, 
 made by Gibbons, at the charge of Toby Rustick, of the present king, James II." Thus Walpole had a 
 correct impression of the truth when he wrote, " 1 am the rather inclined to attribute the statue at 
 Whitehall to Gibbons, because I know of no other artist of that time capable of it." The likeness is 
 extremely fine, as is the easy attitude of the figure. Many verses were made on this statue at the time 
 of its erection. The figure looking towards the river, which was then open, was said to prosnosticate 
 the king's flight ; this, however, is not more probable than that he is pointing to the spot where his 
 father was executed, which has long been proved a vulgar error. At the accession of William III., the 
 statue was not removed. 
 
 JENNEB, DB Kensington Gardens .... Calder Marshall. 
 
 KENT, UUKB OP ..... Portland-place Gahagan. 
 
 MILLING*, v, ROBEBT . . . West India Docks. 
 
 MOOBE, Siu JOHN .... Christ's Hospital. 
 
 MYDDELTON, SIE HUSH . . Islington-green ...... Thomas. 
 
 The figure of the knight is 8 ft. 6 in. in height. It is carved in white Sicilian marble, and represents 
 Sir Hugh clothed in the costume of the latter portion of the 16th century, with badge and chain, 
 holding in his left hand a scroll containing the plan of his great and useful work, labelled with the 
 words "New River." The statue is placed upon a pedestal of gray Devonshire granite, on the front face 
 of which is carved the following inscription: "Sir Hugh Myddelton, born 1555, died 1631." The base 
 beneath the pedestal is of Portland stone, and on the right and left of the pedestal are two figures of 
 boys partly draped, with hair entwined with bulrushes, and seated on pitchers, from which latter the 
 water pours into the basins. The figures and basins are of carved Sicilian marble. The statue itself, 
 was given by Sir S. M. Peto, and the rest provided for by subscription, the New River Company having 
 given 501. towards the cost. The whole is 21 feet high, the principal statue 8 feet. 
 
 NELSON, LOED ... . Trafalgar-square Baily. 
 
 Baily's statue of Nelson has been likened to a Greenwich pensioner. The four bronze lions, by Sir 
 Edwin Landseer, were added to the base of the pedestal in 1867. Only one lion was modelled. A slight 
 variation in treatment enabled the artist to adapt this one design to his four pedestals. The completed 
 statue is not much above the size of a large full-grown lion, as we know the king of beasts in confine- 
 ment. The action is the simplest, but grandest ; one natural to the animal and right royal ; he is 
 couchant, with his massive arms extended straight before him ; his huge head, calm in the conscious- 
 ness of might, erect, and watchful, but with no anger nor defiance, except that which is inseparable 
 from such strength. The modelling of the head will at once strike every one who sees this noble 
 ill-sign. Into this Sir Edwin has thrown all his unequalled power as a master of animal physiognomy, 
 and his rapid pencil never rendered the subtle curvatures of bony and muscular surface, the delicacies 
 of light and shadow, and the secrets of expression with more consummate skill on the canvas than they 
 are here given by modelling tool and hand together in the clay. The difficulties of the mane and the 
 shaggy fringe which extends along the fore part of the animal have been managed with great judgment. 
 They are treated in broad and simple masses. (Times.) Even this memorial was not commenced 
 until three-and-thirty years had elapsed from the day on which were borne in mournful pomp, past this 
 very spot, all that was mortal of him 
 
 "Whose sacred splendour, and whose deathless name, 
 Shall grace and guard his country's naval fame." 
 
 NAPIBB, SIR C. J Trafalgar-square Adams. 
 
 PEEL, SIE ROBEBT .... Cheapside Behnes. 
 
 PITT, WILLIAM Hanover-square Chantrey. 
 
 KICHABD CCEUE DE LION . . Old Palace-yard ilaroc-hetti. 
 
 Midway between the Peers' entrance to the Houses of Parliament and the end of Westminster 
 Hall, and in a line with the centre of the great window in the Hall. It is placed on a pedestal 
 of granite about 8 feet 6 inches high; in which two panels are occupied by bronze relievi. The 
 group is picturesque ; but the hind-quarters of the horse and the fatiguing attitude of the man un- 
 successful that the king appears to be sitting on his horse quietly, just as a groom does when without 
 a saddle ; whereas, as the attitude is supposed to be a momentary one, the figure should, with uplifted 
 arm, have been raised in the stirrups. This would have given life to the figure, and would have con- 
 nected it, as it were, better with the horse. No man on a prancing charger would be lifting up hi* 
 sword in a supposed dignified position with his feet dangling carelessly in the stirrups. Yet this work 
 has been authoritatively pronounced by the Edinburgh Review as " by far the noblest equestrian statue 
 in England !" The pedestal is insignificant. 
 
 SHAKSPEABE, WILLIAM . . Drury-lane Theatre portico . . Scheemakers. 
 
 Executed in lead by Cheere, " the leaden figure-man at Hyde-park Corner." It was presente4 to the 
 .theatre by Mr. Whitbread, M.P. 
 
 SLOANE, SIB HANS .... Chelsea Rysbraeck. 
 
 VICTOBIA, QUEEN .... Koyal Exchange Lough. 
 
 VICTOBIA, QUEEN .... Xew Record Office Durham. 
 
 WATTS, Da. ISAAC .... Abney Park Cemetery .... Baily.
 
 760 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Statues. Sites. Sculptors. 
 
 WELLINGTON, DUKS OF . . Green Park Arch Wyatts. 
 
 This stupendous statue was modelled by Matthew Cotes Wyatt, and his son James Wyatt, at Dudley- 
 grove House, Harrow-road ; it was commenced in 1840, and occupied three years, and took more than 
 100 tons of plaster. It represents the Duke of Wellington upon his horse " Copenhagen," at the field 
 of Waterloo : the Duke sat for the portrait, and the head and likeness are fine. The group is cast in 
 about eight pieces, which are fastened with screws and fused together, 30 men being often employed at 
 one time upon the bronze. It was conveyed upon an immense car, drawn by 40 horses, to the Green 
 Park Arch, Sept. 28, 1846 ; it was raised by crabs. The entire group weighs 40 tons : is nearly 30 feet 
 high; and within half of the horse eight persons have dined. The girth of the horse is 22ft. Sin. ; 
 nose to tail 26 feet ; length of head 5 feet ; length of each ear 2 ft. 4 in. The erection of this group, 
 which cost about 30,0001., originated from the close contest for the execution of the Wellington statue 
 in the City; and the execution of both statues emanated from a suggestion of Mr. T. B. Simpson, of 
 the Court of Common Council, Lime-street Ward. 
 
 WELLINGTON, DTTKE OT . . Woolwich Milnes. 
 
 WELLINGTON, DUKE OE . . Royal Exchange Chantrey. 
 
 WESIMINBTBBS, OLD . . . Westminster Broadway . . . Scott. 
 
 This monument before the west end of Westminster Abbey, to the " old Westminsters" who perished 
 in the Crimean war is effective and picturesque. 
 
 WILLIAM III St. James's-square Bacon, jun. 
 
 WILLIAM IV King William-street .... Nixon. 
 
 The several Statues in the East India House, Guildhall, British Museum, Parliament Houses, St. 
 Paul's Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, Royal Exchange, and other public buildings, are described under 
 their respective names. 
 
 At Newgate Prison, in exterior niches, are meritorious statues.of Concord and Liberty, Mercy and 
 Truth, Peace and Plenty, from the Old Gate. 
 
 YOBK, DUKE OF York Column Westmacott. 
 
 STOCK EXCHANGE, fully described at pp. 331-333. 
 
 STRAND (THE) 
 
 TjlXTENDS from Charing Cross to Temple Bar (1369 yards, or of a mile 49 yards), 
 J-J and was " probably so called as. being at the brink of the Thames, before the space 
 now built on was gained by raising the ground" (Hatton), which is in some places 
 20 feet deep. In early ages this was the great thoroughfare between the Court and 
 City, and the Inns of Court and Westminster. The site of St. Clement's Danes is 
 recognised in tradition as "the Danes' churchyard," the burial-place of the son of 
 Canute the Great, Harold Harefoot. Here, close by the Thames, and outside the City 
 walls, dwelt together as fellow-countrymen the Danish merchants and mariners; and 
 their church, like that at Aarhuus in Jutland, and Trondjeun in Norway, was dedicated 
 to St. Clement, the seaman's patron-saint. (J. J. A. Worsaae, for. F.S.A.) Another 
 early building was the Hermitage of St. Catherine at Charing, and adjoining or oppo- 
 site, the Hospital of St. Mary Kounceval (temp. Henry III.) ; also, the palace of the 
 Savoy, and the first church of St. Mary, were built before the 14th century. A peti- 
 tion to Edward II. (1315) describes the footway interrupted by thickets and bushes; 
 and in 1383 tolls were granted for paving the Strand from the Savoy to Temple Bar. 
 The south side was occupied by the mansions of the nobility and prelates, with gardens, 
 terraces, and water-stairs down to the Thames ; but the spaces between the mansions 
 showed the river : whilst on the north side were the gardens of the Convent of West- 
 minster, bounded by lanes and open ground ; the village of St. Giles, and the church 
 of St. Martin in the fields; and Charing Cross, without a house near it. One of 
 Canaletto's pictures shows Charing Cross, Northumberland House, and the Strand, 
 with the signs in front of the houses. Van der Wyngrerde's View, 1543, shows 
 straggling lines of houses from the bar (now Temple Bar) to the Savoy, and beyond it 
 on the south side ; but the north is open to Convent Garden ; and in the roadway are 
 St. Clement's and St. Mary's churches, and the Maypole, near upon the site of the 
 Strand Cross, where "the justices itinerants sate without London" (Stow). Of the 
 Thames-bank palaces are shown Somerset-place, the Savoy, and Durham House. At 
 this time the Strand was crossed by three water-courses running from the north to the 
 Thames, over which were bridges ; the sites of two are denoted by Ivy-bridge-lane 
 and Strand-bridge-lane ; and the remains of a third bridge were unearthed in 1802, a
 
 A STRAND MEMORY. 
 
 .ST RELIC OF THE PRE-ALDWYCHill^ _ !?I 
 
 fehe Ivy-bridge stream formed the boundary 
 r**\ / V er ' au(i the Wt } r of Westminster. 
 
 (By a Correspondent.) nd House is described at page 554. Next 
 
 Mien, some twenty years ago, the London 1 " "ie official residence of the Secretary of 
 
 anty Council effected their great demolition ^' "I ^VT ^iv f^" 
 
 .enants Lodgings:" here Nelson lodged. 
 Cmgsway and Aldwych rne . lane .. he e> B with his mother and 
 
 t a few buildings standvhen he went to a private school in St. 
 
 >osestrife and coltsfoot, in a semi-nster School, under Camden, then junior 
 
 ondition. There was Matcham's Hotel, r. Benjamin Franklin, in 1771. At No. 27 
 
 -oscenium of a theatre (the Olympic, I authors of the Rejected Addresses. At 
 
 section of New Inn, and so on. All Mathevvs, the comedian : his father was a 
 
 ith a solitary excep- Dr. Adam Clarke, Rowland Hill, and other 
 
 Inis was the stark, untidy -looking struc- 
 
 r years has stood on the Strand Hote i f described at pp. 442-3. The early 
 M-f/? Church, 559 4 60: ifc was pa P r ? of the Hungerford 
 upper floors have been 'hidden behind advef- i f i f -i 
 ment hoardings. The ground-floor shop has' 8 and C Stly failure> 
 11 used as a fountain-pen depot. It stands lbout 100 yards cast of the site of Charing-cross, the 
 
 lay on land which is to be used in the 8et-'o nction '^ y S dw ^- I J-5 inT '-* Jl ^2_21!^ r 
 
 * tr : Pennant, m the British Museum; a second drawing 
 
 .Building western exten- of the Society of Antiquaries. The height to the top 
 
 llns week it is coming down, and with it surmounted is about 70 feet; the materials Portland 
 
 vanish the very last of a " quarter " which sculptor, Thomas Earp. In the upper story are eight 
 
 - n ig her as queen, with royal insignia, and the other 
 
 P London, breathing the the feet of the statues are eight figures of kneeling 
 3 seventeenth and early eighteenth P are copied from those existing on the crosses of 
 .uries. Its passing seems worth recalling 
 
 his building was once, I believe, part of the 
 :h and Horses Inn, in the Strand. When 
 London County Council clearance began it 
 une necessary to find temporary quarters for 
 rt's Wine House, which to-day is settled 
 n in the east corner of what 'is known as 
 coni House, but was built as the new 
 sty Restaurant. Short's had originally 
 ipied premises a few yards west of where 
 ' are to-day. At the time of the clearance 
 
 tilG 
 
 , at last, to disappear, 
 
 consist of three varieties. The first displays three 
 ms of England by King Henry II. in 1154, and which 
 n Victoria. The second is that of Ponthieu, which 
 ->\j consists of three bendlets within a bordure. The 
 , arranged quarterly; and the representation of the 
 stile are a castle, triple towered; and those of Leon 
 & accords with the arrangement at Northampton, 
 tracery in the lowest stage of the monument is com- 
 mting alternately the castle of Castile and the lion 
 have a similar design. The carving generally of the 
 agrees with the best remains of English thirteenth- 
 effectively engraved in the Illustrated London News, 
 
 ,e of York House, originally the inn of the 
 exchange for Suffolk House, Southwark, by 
 ary, the name was changed to York House, 
 to disappear, t Seal: here lived Sir Nicholas Bacon; and 
 the front with a aham fa, 22nd January, 1560-1. At York House he 
 noered facade, and the nlacp <?uitr>H ita i x i 4: u i. 
 
 enough ' ri -- - al was ta ^ en * TOm him : when 
 
 been allowed o reman sndg so long 
 
 9, in its ruinous condition. S 
 
 j _ x >reath, if so please God and the king." He 
 
 did not, however, return to York House after his release from the Tower, being 
 forbidden to come within the verge of the court. The house was next lent to Villiers, 
 Duke of Buckingham, who, in 1624, obtained the estate by grant from James I. The 
 mansion was then taken down, and a temporary house built for State receptions, and 
 sumptuously fitted with " huge panes of glass " (mirrors), of the manufacture of which 
 in England Buckingham was an early patron. Near the middle of a long embattled 
 wall, fronting the Thames, he caused to be erected, in 1626, a rustic Water-gate. 
 After the Duke's death, in 1628, York House was leased to the Earl of Northumberland. 
 Here was a fine collection of pictures, among which is supposed to have been the lost 
 portrait of Prince Charles, by Velasquez. Here also was the collection of sculptures 
 which belonged to Rubens ; and in the garden was John de Bologna's Cain and Abel. 
 The " superstitious pictures " were sold by order of Parliament in 1645 ; and the 
 house was given by Cromwell to General Fairfax, by the marriage of whose daughter 
 and heiress with George, second Duke of Buckingham, it was reconveyed to the 
 Villiers family. ,The Duke resided here subsequent to the Restoration : but La 1672
 
 760 
 
 CURIOSITIES 
 
 Statues. 
 WELLINGTON, DUKE OF 
 
 Sit' 
 . Green P 
 
 This stupendous statue was modelled by Mattheiv 
 grove House, Harrow-road ; it was commenced in la 
 100 tons of plaster. It represents the Duke of Wei 
 of Waterloo : the Duke sat for the portrait, and tha 
 about eight pieces, which are fastened with screws aij 
 one time upon the bronze. It was conveyed upon aq 
 Park Arch, Sept. 28, 1846 ; it was raised by crabs, 
 high ; and within half of the horse eight persons 
 nose to tail 26 feet; length of head 5 feet; length 
 which cost about 30,0001., originated from the close i 
 in the City; and the execution of both statues ema 
 the Court of Common Council, Lime-street Ward. 
 
 WELLINGTON, DTTKB OF 
 WELLINGTON, DUKE OB 
 WESTMINSTBBS, OLD 
 
 . WoolwicB 
 
 . Eoyal 
 . WestminS 
 
 This monument before the west end of WestminstS 
 in the Crimean war is effective and picturesque. 
 
 WILLIAM III St. James; 
 
 WILLIAM IV. ...... King Wil$ 
 
 The several Statues in the East India House, Guig 
 Paul's Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, Eoyal Kxchan| 
 their respective names. 
 
 At Newgate Prison, in exterior niches, are meritcS 
 Truth, Peace and Plenty, from the Old Gate. 
 
 YOBK, DUKE OF . . . . . York Col 
 
 STOCK EXCHANGE, fullj 
 
 /HE most exc< 
 opportunities e^ 
 is provided by 
 during the lasl 
 
 policy of this Hous 
 
 all Summer merchandise ra 
 to the Autumn. In many 
 down to figures which an 
 
 REMARKABLE 
 AVAILABLE I 
 
 DICKINS & JONES Sale las 
 which time greater bargains 
 her that even at Sale time i 
 JONES in absolute comfort j 
 always delightfully cool, 
 ground floor, and DICKINS 
 knowledged to be one of the 1 
 
 COME EARL1 
 
 Early buying is essential to obta 
 personal inspection and comparison 
 
 only 
 WHY 
 
 in this toay can 
 NOT PAY 
 
 .... STEANl 
 
 T1XTENDS from Charing Cross to Templi 
 JLJ and was " probably so called as being i ' 
 now built on was gained by raising the g 
 20 feet deep. In early ages this was the 
 City, and the Inns of Court and Westmins 
 recognised in tradition as "the Danes' ch 
 Canute the Great, Harold Harefoot. Here, 
 walls, dwelt together as fellow-countrymen i 
 their church, like that at Aarhuus in Jutlan 
 to St. Clement, the seaman's patron-saint, 
 early building was the Hermitage of St. Cat] 
 site, the Hospital of St. Mary Rounceval (ft 
 Savoy, and the first church of St. Mary, we. 
 tion to Edward II. (1315) describes the foci 
 and in 1383 tolls were granted for paving thl 
 The south side was occupied by the mansions of the nobility and prelates, with gardens 
 terraces, and water-stairs down to the Thames ; but the spaces between the mansions 
 showed the river : whilst on the north side were the gardens of the Convent of West- 
 minster, bounded by lanes and open ground ; the village of St. Giles, and the church 
 of St. Martin in the fields; and Charing Cross, without a house near it. One of 
 Canaletto's pictures shows Charing Cross, Northumberland House, and the Strand, 
 with the signs in front of the houses. Van der Wyngrerde's View, 1543, shows 
 straggling lines of houses from the bar (now Temple Bar) to the Savoy, and beyond it 
 on the south side ; but the north is open to Convent Garden ; and in the roadway are 
 St. Clement's and St. Mary's churches, and the Maypole, near upon the site of the 
 Strand Cross, where " the justices itinerants sate without London " (Stow). Of the 
 Thames-bank palaces are shown Somerset-place, the Savoy, and Durham House. At 
 this time the Strand was crossed by three water-courses running from the north to the 
 Thames, over which were bridges ; the sites of two are denoted by Ivy-bridge-lane 
 and Strand-bridge-lane j and the remains of a third bridge were unearthed in 1802, a 
 
 the excef. 
 AN E 
 
 ILLUSTRATED BELOW 
 
 103 K. An Inexpensive and 
 practical WOOL CARDIGAN 
 
 in Lace stitch and with a broa 1 
 rib. Colours: White, Black, 
 Saxc, 
 
 Grey, 
 
 T...1. 
 
 Tabac, 
 
 J 
 
 ve and ^ Jt 
 
 DIGAN I 
 
 a broa 1 I 
 Black, I 
 Natural, I 
 
 Biscuit. I . L .. I II
 
 STRAND. 761 
 
 little eastward of St. Clement's church. The Ivy-bridge stream formed the boundary 
 between the Liberty and Duchy of Lancaster, and the City of Westminster. 
 
 STBAND : SOUTH SIDE. Northumberland House is described at page 554. Next 
 door, upon the site of No. 1, Strand, was the official residence of the Secretary of 
 State, where Sir Harry Vane the elder lived, in the reign of Charles 1. Northumber- 
 land-court was once known as " Lieutenants' Lodgings :" here Nelson lodged. 
 Northumberland-street, formerly Hartshorne-lane : here, with his mother and step- 
 father, a bricklayer, lived Ben Jonson when he went to " a private school in St. 
 Martin's Church ;" and next to Westminster School, under Camden, then junior 
 master. Craven-street : at No. 7 lived Dr. Benjamin Franklin, in 1771. At No. 27 
 died, in 1839, James Smith, one of the authors of the Rejected Addresses. At 
 No. 18, Strand, was born, 1776, Charles Mathews, the comedian : his father was a 
 bookseller ; and his shop was the resort of Dr. Adam Clarke, Rowland Hill, and other 
 Dissenting ministers. 
 
 Charing Cross Railway Terminus and Hotel, described at pp. 442-3. The early 
 history of this spot is glanced at in pp. 559-560 : it was part of the Hungerford 
 estate : it was long a site of sorry speculations and costly failure. 
 
 The beautiful Gothic cross in the court-yard is about 100 yards east of the site of Charing-cross, the 
 Eleanor memorial, of which the new cross is a reproduction, by Edward M. Barry, A.B.A., from scanty 
 authorities, namely, a rough drawing in the Crowle Pennant, in the British Museum ; a second drawing 
 in the Bodleian Library ; and a third in the library of the Society of Antiquaries. The height to the top 
 of the gilt copper cross by which the memorial is surmounted is about 70 feet; the materials Portland 
 stone, red Mansfield stone, and Aberdeen granite ; sculptor, Thomas Earp. In the upper story are eight 
 crowned statues of Queen Eleanor, four representing her as queen, with royal insignia, and the other 
 four with the attributes of a Christian woman. At the feet of the statues are eight figures of kneeling 
 angels in prayer. The shields in the lower stage are copied from those existing on the crosses of 
 Waltham and Northampton, and on the tomb, and consist of three varieties. The first displays three 
 lions passant gardant, first assumed as the Royal arms of England by King Henry II. in 1154, and which 
 still forms part of the Epyal arms as borne by Queen Victoria. The second is that of Ponthieu, which 
 Queen Eleanor bore in right of her mother, and simply consists of three bendlets within a bordure. The 
 third shield represents the arms of Castile and Leon, arranged quarterly; and the representation of the 
 earliest known quartering of arms. The arms of Castile are a castle, triple towered ; and those of Leon 
 represents a lion rampant. The order of the shields accords with the arrangement at Northampton, 
 Waltham, and Westminster. The diaper above the tracery in the lowest stage of the monument is com- 
 posed of octagonal panels, richly undercut, representing alternately the castle of Castile and the lion 
 rampant of Leon: the pillow and couch of the effigy have a similar design. The carving generally of the 
 crockets, capitals, canopies, diapers, gargoyles, &c., agrees with the best remains of English thirteenth- 
 century art. The cost has not exceeded 18001. It is effectively engraved in the Illustrated London News, 
 Dec. 9, 1865. 
 
 No. 31, Strand, occupies part of the site of York House, originally the inn of the 
 Bishop of Norwich ; and being obtained in exchange for Suffolk House, Southwark, by 
 Heath, Archbishop of York, temp. Queen Mary, the name was changed to York House. 
 It was let to the Lord Keepers of the Great Seal : here lived Sir Nicholas Bacon ; and 
 here was born his son, Lord Chancellor Bacon, 22nd January, 1560-1. At York House he 
 kept his 60th birthday. Here the Great Seal was taken from him : when importuned 
 by the Duke of Lennox to part with the mansion. Bacon replied, " For this you will 
 pardon me : York House is the House where my father died, and where I first 
 breathed ; and there will I yield my last breath, if so please God and the king." He 
 did not, however, return to York House after his release from the Tower, being 
 forbidden to come within the verge of the court. The house was next lent to Villiers, 
 Duke of Buckingham, who, in 1624, obtained the estate by grant from James I. The 
 mansion was then taken down, and a temporary house built for State receptions, and 
 sumptuously fitted with " huge panes of glass " (mirrors), of the manufacture of which 
 in England Buckingham was an early patron. Near the middle of a long embattled 
 wall, fronting the Thames, he caused to be erected, in 1626, a rustic Water-gate. 
 After the Duke's death, in 1628, York House was leased to the Earl of Northumberland. 
 Here was a fine collection of pictures, among which is supposed to have been the lost 
 portrait of Prince Charles, by Velasquez. Here also was the collection of sculptures 
 which belonged to Rubens ; and in the garden was John de Bologna's Cain and Abel. 
 The " superstitious pictures " were sold by order of Parliament in 1645 ; and the 
 house was given by Cromwell to General Fairfax, by the marriage of whose daughter 
 and heiress with George, second Duke of Buckingham, it was reconveyed to the 
 Villiers family. /The Duke resided here subsequent to the Restoration : but in 1672
 
 762 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 sold the estate for 30.000Z., when the mansion was pulled down, and upon the grounds 
 and gardens were erected houses named from the last possessor of the mansion : 
 George-street (now York-buildings), Timers-street, Duke-street, Of-alley, Sucking- 
 ham-street. The whole estate was also called York-buildings. 
 
 The York Buildings Waterworks Company, for supplying the West-end of London 
 with water, was one of the bubbles of 1720. For this purpose, however, a veritable 
 steam-engine was constructed, which is thus described in the Foreigner's Guide to 
 London, 1720 : 
 
 " Here you see a high wooden tower and a water-engine of a new invention, that draws out of the 
 Thames above three tons of water in one minute, by means of the steam arising from water boiling in a 
 great copper, a continual fire being kept to that purpose ; the steam being compressed and condensed, 
 moves, by its evaporation, and strikes a counterpoise, which counterpoise striking another, at last moves 
 a great beam, which, by its motion of going up and down, draws the water from the river, which mounts 
 through great iron pipes to the height of the tower, discharging itself there into a deep leaden cistern ; 
 and thence falling through other large iron pipes, fills them that are laid along the streets, and so con- 
 tinuing to run through wooden pipes as far as Mar-bone fields, falls there into a large pond or reservoir, 
 from whence the new buildings near Hanover-square and many thousand houses, are supplied with 
 water. This machine is certainly a great curiosity ; and though it be not so large as that of Marly in 
 France, yet, considering its smallness in comparison with that, and the little charge it was built and is 
 kept with, and the quantity of water it draws, its use and benefit is much beyond that." 
 
 The Company ceased to work this " fire-engine " in 1731 ; but it was shown for several 
 years as a curiosity. In All Alive and Merry, or the London Daily Post, April 18, 
 1741, it is stated that the charge of working the machine, " and some other reasons 
 concurring, made its proprietors, the York Buildings Company, lay aside the design ; 
 and no doubt but the inhabitants in this neighbourhood are very glad of it ; for its 
 working, which was by sea-coal, was attended with so much smoke, that it not only 
 must pollute the air thereabouts, but spoil the furniture." The failure is the subject of 
 an amusing jew d'esprit, entitled " The York Buildings Dragons," reprinted in 
 Wright's England under the Souse of Hanover, vol. i. Appendix. Many of the 
 wooden water-pipes have been taken up in excavations in Brook-street, Grosvenor- 
 square, and in other places along the line. In Buckingham -street, in 1818, were 
 "the Sea-water Baths," which were supplied by a vessel with water from below 
 Southend. See James's View on the Thames, in the Hampton Court Picture Gallery. 
 Evelyn notes : " 17th Nov. 1683. I tooke a house in Villiers-streete, York-buildings, for the winter, 
 having many important concerns to dispatch, and for the education of my daughters." Diary. 
 
 Buckingham-street : at the last house on the west side (since rebuilt) lived Samuel 
 Pepys from 1684 to 1700 ; and No. 15, on the east side opposite, was hired for Peter the 
 Great in 1698 : the house has some noble rooms facing the river : here the Institution 
 -of Civil Engineers once met. At No. 14, in the top chambers, lived William Etty, 
 E..A., the painter, from 1826 to 1849. At the south end of Buckingham-street remains 
 the Water-gate built for York House, which stood a short distance westward. 
 
 The Gate is of Portland-stone : on the northern or street side are three arches, flanked with pilasters, 
 supporting an entablature and four balls; above the keystones of the arches are shields, those at the 
 sides sculptured with anchors, and that in, the centre with the arms of Villiers impaling those of the 
 family of Manners. Upon the frieze is the Villiers motto : FIDEI COTICULA CRTJX (the Cross is the 
 Touchstone of Faith). The southern or river front has a large archway, opening upon steps to the 
 water; on each side is an aperture, divided by a small column, and partly closed by balustrades. Four 
 rusticated columns support an entablature, ornamented with scallops, and crowned with an arched 
 pediment, and two couchant lions holding shields, on which are sculptured anchors. In the pediment, 
 within a scroll, are the arms of Villiers, viz., on a cross, five escallops, encircled by a garter, and sur- 
 mounted by a ducal coronet; at the sides are pendent festoons. This Gate has been ascribed to Inigo 
 Jones ; but in the library of the Soane Museum, in an " Account Book of Workes done by Nicholas 
 Stone, sen., Master-mason to King James I. and King Charles," the ninth article in the list is, " The 
 Water-gate at Yorke House hee deesined and built, and ye right hand Lion hee did fronting ye Thames. 
 Mr. Kearne, a Jarman, his brother by marrying his sister, did ye Shce Lion." 
 
 The Gate is approached by an inclosed terrace-walk, planted with lime-trees. 
 
 The Adelphi, east of York-buildings, is described at page 1. John-street occupies the 
 site of Durham House, which extended from the river to the Strand. It was built by 
 Thomas Hatfield, Bishop of Durham, 1345-1381, and continued to be inhabited by the 
 see until Bishop Tunstall exchanged the house for Coldharborough, in Thames-street. 
 Durham Place was used as a mint by the Seymours. Edward VI. granted the place 
 to his sister Elizabeth. It next became the residence of Dudley, Earl of Northumber- 
 land; and here was celebrated his son's marriage with Lady Jane Grey, who, on 
 assuming the crown, was lodged in Durham Place, and thence escorted to the Tower. 
 The estate was restored by Queen Mary to Bishop Tunstall ; but Elizabeth, on her
 
 Ir.Kimmel has published a clever book on Perfumery, in which he mentions, besides Lillie, "one Perry, 
 :ding also in the Strand, at the corner of Burleigh-street. He was, however, reduced to ' blow his 
 
 STRAND. 763 
 
 accession, claimed Durham Place as one of the royal palaces, and granted it to Sir 
 Walter Raleigh, who possessed it for twenty years, but surrendered it in 1603 to the 
 then Bishop of Durham. Auhrey well remembered Raleigh's " study, which was on a 
 little turret that looked into and over the Thames, and had the prospect, which is as 
 pleasant, perhaps, as any in the world." The stables fronting the Strand were next 
 taken down, and upon the ground was built the New Exchange (see pp. 330-331), 
 demolished in 1737 : the site is now occupied by the houses Nos. 54 to 64 inclusive, 
 the banking-house of Coutts and Co. being the centre : the name survives in Durham- 
 street. At Coutts's (No. 59), formerly in St. Martin's-lane, the sovereign and the royal 
 family have banked (kept cash), commencing with Queen Anne : the series of accounts 
 is preserved entire. 
 
 Seavfort-buildings occupy the site of a mansion named from its successive owners, 
 Carlisle House (Bishops of Carlisle) ; Bedford and Russell House (Earls of Bedford) ; 
 Worcester House, from its next occupant, the Marquis of Worcester, who wrote the 
 Century of Inventions ; and from the Marquis's eldest son, created Duke of Beaufort, 
 jBeavfort House. Lord Clarendon lived here while his house was building at the top 
 of St. James's-street ; and here, in 1660, was married Anne Hyde, the Chancellor's 
 daughter, to the Duke of York, according to the Protestant rites. The mansion was 
 taken down, and a smaller house built ; which being burnt down, with some others, in 
 1695, upon the ground were erected the present Beaufort-buildings. In a house on the 
 site was born Aaron Hill, the dramatist, 1685. At the east corner, upon the site of 
 No. 96, Strand, lived Charles Lillie, who sold snuffs, perfumes, &c. ; and took in letters 
 for the Toiler, Spectator, &c., directed to him at the desire of Steele. 
 
 Mr 
 
 residii _ 
 
 own trumpet;' and in a paper called the Weekly Packet, bearing the date of 28th December, 1718, he 
 vaunts, besides his perfumes, an oil drawn from mustard-seed, which, at the moderate price of 6d. per 
 ounce, is warranted to cure all diseases under the sun." 
 
 Nos. 101 and 102, Strand, Ries's Divan, a large decorated room for cigars, chess, 
 and coffee, occupies the site of the Fountain Tavern, noted for its political club, and 
 described by Strype ; of a drawing academy, at which Conway and Wheatley were 
 pupils; and of the lecture-room of John Thelwall, the political elocutionist. At 
 No. 101, lived Rudolph Ackermann, the printseller, who introduced lithography and 
 " the Annuals " from Germany : here he illuminated his gallery with Cannel coal, 
 when gas-lighting was a novelty. 
 
 Adam-street presents a handsome specimen of the embellished street-architecture 
 introduced by the Brothers Adam. 
 
 Salisbury-street and Cecil-street are built upon the site of Salisbury House, erected in 
 1602 by Sir Robert Cecil, Lord High Treasurer to James I., and created Earl of Salis- 
 bury in 1605. His successor divided the mansion into Great Salisbury House and 
 Little Salisbury House : part of the latter was taken down, and upon the site was 
 erected Salisbury-street, rebuilt as we now see it by Paine the architect ; another 
 portion was converted into the Middle Exchange, with shops and stalls, and a flight of 
 steps to the river ; the latter was taken down in 1696, with Great Salisbury House, 
 and upon their site was erected Cecil-street. In Little Salisbury House lived the third 
 Earl of Devonshire, the pupil and patron of Hobbes, who, when standing at the gate 
 a few days after Restoration- day, was kindly recognised by Charles II. as he was 
 passing in his coach through the Strand. In Cecil-street, and at the Globe in Salis- 
 bury-street, lived Partridge, cobbler, astrologer, and almanack-maker, whom Swift 
 humorously killed in 1708, though he actually lived till 1715 ; but Partridge's Alma- 
 nack (Merlinus Liberatus) continued to be published ; and in 1723 advertised " Dr. 
 Partridge's night-drops, night-pills, &c., sold as before, by his widow, at the Blue Ball 
 in Salisbury-street." Opposite Southampton-street lived the Vaillants, foreign book- 
 sellers, from 1686 until late in the last century. Fountain-court is named from the 
 above tavern ; at No. 3 in this court died, August 27, 1827, Blake, the epic painter, 
 whose love of religion supported him through a life of uniibrm poverty, and cheered 
 his death-bed. 
 
 Savoy-steps and Savoy-street, see SAVOY, pp. 142-144, 722.
 
 764 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 At No. 132, Strand (site of Wellington-street) was established in 1740 the first 
 circulating library in London, by Wright, who had for his rivals Samuel Bathoe and 
 John Bell. Upon the site of No. 141 lived Jacob Tonson, the bookseller, " at Shak- 
 speare's head, over against Catherine-street, in the Strand." The house was successively 
 occupied by the publishers, Andrew Millar, Alderman Thomas Cadell, and Cadell and 
 Davies : Millar, being a Scotchman, adopted the sign of Buchanan's Head, a painting 
 of which continued in one of the window-panes to our day. No. 142 occupies the 
 site of the Turk's Head Coffee-house, which Dr. Johnson encouraged ; "for the 
 mistress of it is a good civil woman, and has no^ much business." No. 143 (now 
 Southgate's Fine Arts Auction gallery), site of the first office of the Morning Chronicle 
 (see NEWSPAPERS, p. 616). At No. 147 was published the Sphinx ; and Jan. 2, 1828, 
 No. 1 of the Athenceum, edited by James Silk Buckingham, the traveller in the East. 
 
 At No. 149, long known to the collectors of shells, minerals and fossils, John Mawe kept shop : here 
 have been sold shells at 51., 101., and 201. each, now to be bought for a few shillings. Mr. Mawe published 
 his Travels in the Diamond District of Brazil, 1812; A Treatise on Diamonds; and several elementary 
 works on Mineralogy, Conchology, &c. His widow was succeeded by James Tennant, F.G.S., Professor 
 of Mineralogy and Geology in King's College, London. 
 
 SOMEESET HOUSE (see pp. 735, 6). KING'S COLLEGE GATEWAY (see p. 276). No. 
 162, Strand, Somerset Hotel : at the bar letters were left fur the author of Junius. 
 No. 165, Inglis's Warehouse for Scots Pills until 1865 : " Dr. Anderson's pills, sold 
 by J. Inglis, now living at the Golden Unicorn, over against the Maypole in the 
 Strand." Advertisement, 1699. 
 
 Strand-lane, leading to the Roman Bath (see pp. 37 and 716), is the site of Strand 
 Bridge, " and under is a lane or way down to the landing-place on the bank of the 
 Thames " (Stow). Eastward were Chester's Inn, Strand Inn, and the Inn of the 
 Bishop of Llandaff. 
 
 No. 169, Strand Theatre, previously Barker's Panorama (see THEATEES). 
 
 Arundel House, eastward, originally the town-house of the Bishops of Bath, was 
 wrested from them in the reign of Edward VI. by Lord Thomas Seymour, High 
 Admiral. After his execution, the house, with messuages, tenements, and lands adjoin- 
 ing, was purchased by Henry Fitz-Alan, Earl of Arundel, according to Strype, for 
 411. 6s. 8d.; t -hence it was called Arundel Palace. Here died, 25 Feb., 1603, the 
 Countess of Nottingham, after her interview with Queen Elizabeth to implore forgive- 
 ness for having withheld from her Essex's ring. Here Thomas Earl of Arundel began 
 to assemble the celebrated Arundelian Marbles : the statues and busts in the gallery of 
 the mansion ; the inscribed marbles inserted in the garden-walls ; and the statues placed 
 in the garden : altogether, 37 statues, 128 busts, and 250 inscribed marbles ; besides 
 sarcophagi, altars, and fragments, and the inestimable gems. The sculpture and 
 picture galleries are seen in the backgrounds of Van Somer's portraits of the Earl and 
 his Countess. 
 
 To the Earl's " liberal charges and magnificence this angle of the world oweth the first sight of 
 Greek and Roman statues, with whose admired presence he began to honour the gardens and galleries 
 of Arundel House, and hath ever since continued to transplant old Greece into England." Compleat 
 Gentleman. 
 
 " March 1, 1664. I went to Arundel House, where I saw a great number of old Roman and Grecian 
 
 statues, many as big again as the life, and divers Greek inscriptions upon stones in the gardens 
 
 March a. I went to Mr. Foxe's chamber in Arundel House, where I saw a great many pretty pictures 
 and things cast in brasse, some limnings, divers pretious stones, and one diamond valued at eleven 
 hundred pound." Journal of Mr. E. Browne: MS. Sloan. 1906. 
 
 To Arundel House the Earl brought Hollar, who here engraved some of his finest 
 plates. Thomas Parr (" Old Parr ") was conveyed here from Shropshire by the Earl, 
 to be shown to Charles I. : becoming domesticated in the family of the Earl of Arundel, 
 his mode of living was changed ; he fed high, drank wine, and died Nov. 14, 1635, 
 after he had outlived nine sovereigns, and during the reign of the tenth, at the age of 
 152 years and nine months : his body, by the king's command, was dissected by Harvey, 
 who attributed Parr's death to peripneumony, brought on by the impurity of a London 
 atmosphere and sudden change in diet. Philosophical Transactions, 1669. 
 
 The evidence of Parr's extreme age is not, however, documentary ; and the birth dates back to a 
 period before Parish Registers were instituted by Cromwell. Census Report, 1851. 
 
 Arundel House and Marbles were given back at the Eestoration, in 1660, to the
 
 STRAND. 765 
 
 grandson of the earl, Mr. Henry Howard, who, at the recommendation of Selden and 
 Evelyn, gave the inscribed marbles to the University of Oxford ; and the library to 
 the lloyal Society, who met at Arundel House 9 Jan., 1666-7. Evelyn records " how 
 exceedingly the corrosive air of London impaired" the marbles. The mansion was 
 taken down, 1678 ; and upon its site were erected Arundel, Surrey, Howard, and 
 Norfolk streets. Hollar's print* shows the courtyard of Arundel House, with the 
 great hall, and gabled buildings with dormer windows, but mostly low and mean. 
 Sully was lodged here at the accession of James I. Surrey-street : here, on the east 
 side, in a large garden-house fronting the Thames, lived the Hon. Charles Howard, the 
 eminent chemist, who discovered the sugar-refining process in vacua. In Surrey-street 
 died William Congreve, the dramatist, Jan. 19, 1728-9. 
 
 Norfolk-street : here, in a house near the water-side, lodged Peter the Great in 
 1698, and was visited by King William ; and thence he went in a hackney-coach to 
 dine with his majesty at Kensington Palace. At the south-west corner lived William 
 Penn, the quaker; and subsequently, in the same house, Dr. Birch, the historian of 
 the Royal Society. At No. 8, Samuel Ireland, originally a Spitalfields silk-merchant, 
 whose son, William Henry Ireland, then eighteen, forged the Shakspeare Papers in 
 1795 : here Dr. I'arr and Dr. Warton fell upon thair knees and kissed the Mss., 
 " great and impudent forgery," as Parr subsequently called it. In Norfolk-street also 
 lived Mountfort, the player ; and in Howard-street lodged Mrs. Bracegirdle, the fasci- 
 nating actress, out of an attempt to carry off whom arose a bloody duel between 
 Mountfort and Lord Mohun, when the former was killed. 
 
 Between Arundel and Norfolk streets, in 1698, lived Sir Thomas Lyttleton, 
 Speaker of the House of Commons ; and next door, the father of Bishop Burnet ; and 
 the house within memory was Bur net's, the bookseller, a collateral descendant of the 
 bishop. 
 
 Arundel-street, " a pleasant and considerable street " (Ration, 170S) : 
 
 " Behold that narrow street which steep descends, 
 Wjiose building to the shining shore extends ; 
 Here Arundel's fara'd structure rear'd its frame, 
 The street alone retains an empty name : 
 Where Titian's glowing paint the canvas warm'd, 
 And Raphael's fair design the judgment charm'd, 
 Now hangs the bellman's song, and pasted here, 
 The coloured prints of Overton appear ; 
 Where statues breath" d, the work of Phidias' hands, 
 A wooden pump or lonely watch-house stands." Gay's Trivia, 
 
 On the east side was the Crown and Anchor Tavern, now the WHITTINGTOW CLUB 
 (see p. 260) ; the sign was, probably, in part taken from the anchor of St. Clement's, 
 opposite. Strype mentions it as " a large and curious house." Here was instituted 
 the Academy of Ancient Music, in 1710. The great room was 84 ft. by 35 ft. 6 in. : 
 here, on Fox's- birthday, in 1798, took place a banquet to 2000 guests. Dr. Johnson 
 and Boswell occasionally supped bore ; and the Royal Society dinners were held here. 
 The very handsome Italian-fronted houses at the east and west corners of Arundel- 
 street were designed by H. R. Abraham. 
 
 No. 191 , Strand, was the shop of William Godwin, bookseller, and author of Caleb 
 Williams, the Life of Chaucer, &c. : he removed here from Snow-hill. 
 
 Milford-lane is named from a ford over the Thames at the extremity, and a wind- 
 mill in the Strand, near the site of St. Mary's Church, and shown in a print temp. 
 James I. (See Chron. London Bridge, p. 395) : there is also a token of " the Wind- 
 mill, withovt Temple Bar." Sir Richard Baker, the chronicler, lived in Milford-lane, 
 1632-9. (Cunningham's Handbook, p. 337.) The picturesque tenements on the east 
 side, Strand end of the lane, principally of wood, with bay-windows, are described in a 
 deed, date 1694 : they were taken down in 1852, and the site is now occupied by 
 " Milford House," the office of The Illustrated London News. The site of the 
 Infants' Schools lower down in the lane was that of the old Rectory -house. 
 
 * Hollar's View of London from the roof of Arundel House is very rare : an impression at Sir Mark 
 Masterman Sykes's sale, in 1824, sold for 111. In a Household Hook of Lord William Howard (Belted 
 Will) are " his expenses whilst living at Arundel House; and amongst them a payment to Mr. ' Shak- 
 speare," the parish scavenger." Athenceum, No. 1403.
 
 766 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 In Milford-lanc is. the Printing-office of H. D. Woodfall, whose grandfather, in Paternoster-row, first 
 printed Junins'i Letters. The business was first established about the year 1720, in Grocers' Hall-court 
 and in Angel-court, Skinner-street, George Woodfall printed his edition ofJuniits's Letters, 3 vols. 8vo., 
 the first book printed there. The latter office was taken down in 1866. 
 
 Essex-street and Devereux-couri, formerly the Outer Temple, are named from Robert 
 Devereux, Earl of Essex, Queen Elizabeth's last favourite. The ground was leased by 
 the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem to the Bishops of Exeter, who built here a town- 
 house, in which they lived till the Reformation, when it passed to William Lord Paget; 
 next to Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, son of the poetic Earl of Surrey; to Dudley, 
 Earl of Leicester ; and then to his step-son, the Earl of Essex : hence it was successively 
 called Exeter House, Paget House, Norfolk House, Leicester House, and Essex House. 
 But the chief memory of the place is associated with Essex and his abortive project 
 for the overthrow of Elizabeth's government : he fortified the house, but was hemmed 
 in on all sides, artillery being planted against the mansion, and a gun mounted upon the 
 tower of St. Clement's, when Essex and his followers surrendered. Here was born and 
 married his luckless son, whose infamous countess was implicated in the poisoning of Sir 
 Thomas Overbury. Pepys describes Essex House as " large but ugly :" it was tenanted 
 by persons of rank till after the Restoration, when it was subdivided and let. The 
 Cottonian Library was kept here from 1712 to 1730, in the portion of the house upon 
 the site of the present Essex-street Chapel (see p. 220). At the Essex Head Tavern, 
 now No. 40, Dr. Johnson established, the year before he died, a club called " Sam's," 
 from the landlord, Samuel Greaves, who had been servant to Mr. Thrale. In this 
 street also was held the Robin Hood Society, a debating club, the scene of Burke's 
 earliest eloquence ; Goldsmith was also a member. 
 
 At the bottom of the street is the archway of the water-gate of Essex House. In a view of the 
 Thames, showing the Frost Fair, in the reign of Charles II., the King, Queen, and others of the court, 
 are seen coming down the Temple Garden stairs, to witness the sports on the ice ; and in part of the 
 background is the archway, and beyond the archway are the gables and other parts of Essex House. A 
 garden, with terraces, is between the arch and the river. 
 
 No. 213, Strand, was George's Coffee-house (see p. 264). Devereux-court : here was 
 the Grecian Coffee-house (see p. 264). No. 217, Strand, was the house of Snow, the 
 wealthy goldsmith : 
 
 "Disdain not, Snow, my humble verse to hear; 
 Stick thy black pen awhile behind thy ear. 
 ****** 
 thou, whose penetrative wisdom found 
 The South-sea rocks and shelves, where thousands drown'd 1 
 When credit sunk, and commerce gasping lay, 
 Thou stood'st, nor sent one bill unpaid away. 
 When not a guinea chiuk'd on Martin's boards, 
 And Atwell's self was Urain'd of all his hoards, 
 Thou stood'st (an Indian king in size and hue): 
 Thy unexhausted shop was our Peru." Gay. 
 
 The firm, originally Snow and Walton, was one of the oldest banking-houses 
 in London, second only to Child and Co., who date from 1640. At the period of the 
 Commonwealth, Snow and Co. carried on the business of pawnbrokers, under the sign 
 of the " Golden Anchor." The firm possessed a book, dated 1672, showing that the mode 
 of keeping accounts was then in decimals. The banking-firm, subsequently Strahan 
 (Sir John Dean), Paul, and Bates suspended payment in 1855. 
 
 Palsgrave-place was the site of Palsgrave Head Tavern, set up in compliment to the 
 Palsgrave Frederic, afterwards King of Bohemia, affianced to the Princess Elizabeth in 
 the old banqueting-house at Whitehall, Dec. 27, 1612. Hard by was Heycock's Or- 
 dinary, much frequented by Parliament-men and gallants. 
 
 TEMPLE BAR will be described hereafter. The west side, until numbered with the 
 Strand, was called on tokens, " Without Temple Barr." 
 
 STRAND : NORTH SIDE. No. 238 was the last of the " Bulk shops," and was kept 
 by Crockford, the fishmonger; removed in 1846 (see a sketch of him, at p. 247). 
 
 Ship-yard was the site of the Ship Inn, mentioned in a grant to Sir Christopher 
 Hatton in 1551. There is a token of the tavern, date 1649 ; and it was standing in 
 1756. John Reynolds, a cook, issued a token (a fox stealing a goose) in Ship-yard in 
 1666. An old house, engraved in Wilkinson's Londina Illustrata, is stated to have
 
 STRAND. 767 
 
 teen the residence of Elias Ashmole, the antiquary. Faithorne published his Art of 
 Graving and Etching "at his shop next to y e signe of the Drake, without Temple barr, 
 1662." In the Strand, besides the Ship, were the Swan, the Crown, the Robin Hood, 
 the White Hart, the Bear and Harrow, the Holy Lamb, and the Angel. Sir John 
 Denham, the poet, when a student at Lincoln's Inn, in 1635, in a drunken frolic, with 
 a pot of ink and a plasterer's brush, blotted out all the signs between Temple Bar and 
 Charing Cross, which cost Denham and his comrades " some monies." J. H. Bum, 
 
 From opposite Ship-yard extended an obtuse-angled triangle of buildings, the eastern 
 line formed by the vestry-room and almshouses of St. Clement's, and the sides by shops; 
 the whole called Butcher-row, from a flesh market granted here 21 Edward I., at first 
 shambles, but subsequently houses of wood and plaster; one of these, a five-storied, 
 house, temp. James ]., was inhabited by Count Beaumont, the French court ambassador: 
 here the Duke de Sully was lodged for one night in 1603, until " the palace of Arundel" 
 could be prepared for him. Beaumont's house-front bore roses and crowns and fleurs-de- 
 lis, and the date 1581. From a Bear and Harrow orgy, Nat Lee, the dramatic poet, 
 was returning to Duke-street, when he fell, " overtaken with wine," in Clare-market, 
 and died. Here also was Clifton's eatinghouse, a dining-place of Dr. Johnson. But- 
 cher-row was removed in 1802, when were built the opposite crescent-like houses, named 
 Picket-street from the projector of the improvement, Alderman Picket. During the 
 sewers' works, eastward of the church, at several feet depth, was discovered an ancient 
 stone bridge of one arch. The almshouses were removed in 1790 ; here is a well 190 
 feet deep. 
 
 In a house in Butcher-row, east of Clement's Inn, by the confession of Winter, he, with Catesby, 
 Wright, and Guy Fawkes, met, and there administered the oath of secresy to the conspirators, and after- 
 wards received the sacrament hi the next room. The Qunpowder Treason, reprinted 1679. 
 
 The Foregate led to CLEMENT'S INN and Clement' s-lane, where lived Sir John Trevor, 
 cousin to Lord Chancellor Jeffreys, and twice Speaker of the House of Commons. Bos- 
 well-court occupied the site of a mansion of a Mr. Boswell ; here lived Lady Raleigh, 
 the widow of Sir Walter; Lord Chief Justice Lyttleton, and Sir Richard and Lady 
 Fanshawe. In New-court was the Independents' chapel of Burgess, Bradbury, and 
 Whiter. The houses from Temple Bar to beyond Clement's Inn were taken down in 
 1867 for the site of the New Law Courts (see p. 510). 
 
 St. Clement's Vestry-hall, Picket-street, contains the altar-piece (St. Cecilia) painted 
 by Kent for St. Clement's Church, whence it was removed, in 1725, by order of Bishop 
 Gibson, on the supposition that the picture contained portraits of the Pretender's wife 
 and children : it was first removed to the Crown and Anchor tavern, and next to the 
 old vestry room (see ST. CLEMENT'S DANES, p. 158.) 
 
 Wych-street, leading to Drury-lane (see p. 315) : the south side retains some pic- 
 turesque house-fronts. Opposite is NEW INN (p. 473). 
 
 Holywell-street is named from one of the holy springs which Fitzstephen described 
 as " sweete, wholesome, and cleere ; and much frequented by schollars and youth of 
 the citie in summer evenings, when they walk forth to take the aire." The " holy well" 
 is stated to be that under the Old Dog tavern, No. 24. Here was the old entrance to 
 Lyon's Inn. Holywell-street was, in Strype's time, inhabited by " divers salesmen and 
 piece-brokers," who have nearly deserted it : two of their signs long remained ; the Indian 
 queen, said to have been painted by Catton, R.A. ; and a boldly-carved and gilt crescent 
 moon. The street is now tenanted by dealers in old clothes, keepers of book-stalls, and 
 publishers and vendors of cheap and low books : a few lofty gabled and bayed house- 
 fronts remain. Newcastle-street (formerly Magpye-alley) was named from the ground- 
 landlord, John Holies, Duke of Newcastle. No. 313 Strand, was formerly the One 
 Bell livery -stables. The Toiler, March 9, 1710, announced a stage-coach " twice a 
 week from the One Bell in the Strand to Dorchester, the proper time for writing pas- 
 torals now drawing near." 
 
 No. 317, corner of-Drury-court, is thought to be the locality of " the Forge in St. 
 Clement's Danes," referred to in the account of the Shrievalty Tenure custom, at 
 pp. 508-509 ; namely, the site of the forge of a farrier, the father of Nan Clarges, 
 afterwards Duchess of Albernarle. Aubrey (Life of Monk, 1680), says : " The shop ia 
 still of that trade ; the corner-shop, the first turning on ye right hand as you come out
 
 768 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of the Strand into Drury-lame : the house is now built of brick." To this Mr. Bray- 
 ley, in his Londiniana, 1829, adds a conjectural MS. note : " the house alluded to is, 
 probably, that at the right hand corner of Little Drury-lane, now a butcher's, and 
 whitened over." Curiously enough, the house in the court, next the corner house, 
 No. 317, has been for very many years that of a whitesmith, with its forge. 
 
 "Where Drury-lane descends into the Strand" 
 
 "the Maypole in the Strand," was raised by the farrier to commemorate his daughter's 
 good fortune. 
 
 The Maypole set up at the Restoration was conveyed to this spot, April 14, 1661, with great ceremony, 
 a streamer flourishing before it, and drums and trumpets, and the acclamations of the people. This 
 Maypole, 134 feet high, was in two pieces, which being joined together and hopped with iron, the crown 
 and vane, and the king's arms, richly gilded, were placed on the head of it; and a large top, like a 
 balcony, about the middle of it. It was raised by twelve seamen, " by cables, pullies, and other tacklins, 
 with six great anchors ;" and " in four hours' space it was advanced upright, as near hand as they could 
 guess where the former one stood ; but far more glorious, bigger, and higher than ever any one that 
 stood before it." It was, however, broken by a high wind about 1672; and the remaining portion, beiug 
 grown old and decayed, was taken down in 1713. 
 
 Several traders' and tavern tokens bear on the reverse this Maypole, with a small 
 building at the foot. Where St. Mary's Church now is, was the first stand for hackney- 
 coaches, erected in 1634 ; after the church was built, the stand was removed a short 
 distance westward, and lasted until March, 1853. 
 
 No. 332, Morning Chronicle Office, was formerly the White Swan tavern. Here, 
 in a lodging, to be near his patron, the Earl of Clarendon, in Somerset House, lived 
 Dr. William King, who wrote the Art of CooTcery, a poem, &c. He was the friend of 
 Swift. King was luxurious and improvident, and died in poverty in 1712, in the 
 above house. There is a token of the White Swan in the Beaufoy collection, and the 
 sign post, with its swinging sign-board, with a decorated iron frame, is shown in 
 June's ludicrous, but scarce, print of the Lady's Disaster, 1746. At No. 340, Strand, 
 July 15, 1845, died John Augustine Wade, the popular lyric poet and musical composer. 
 
 Catherine-street: on the west was New Exeter 'Change, designed by Sydney 
 Smirke, with house-fronts temp. James I. (see p. 20) ; now the site of the STKAND 
 Music HALL (see p. 608). Brydges-street, Drury-lane Theatre. No. 346 Strand, 
 Doily's Warehouse, rebuilt in fanciful Italian style, by Beazley, in 1838, occupies the 
 site of Wimbledon House, built by Sir Edward Cecil, and burnt down in 1628. Dry- 
 den names " Doily petticoats;" Steele had " a Doily suit" (Guardian, No. 102); and 
 Gay a " Doily habit" (Trivia, book i.) ; and Doily introduced the small wine-glass 
 napkin which still bears his name. 
 
 Wellington-street North : on the west side is the Lyceum Theatre, rebuilt by 
 Beazley. In Exeter-street, at a staymaker's, was the first London lodging of Dr. 
 Johnson (1737), where he lived upon 4^d. per day. When Dr. Johnson first came to 
 London with his pupil Garrick, they borrowed five pounds, on their joint note, of Mr. 
 Wilcocks, the bookseller, Strand.* " Near the Savoy in the Strand," east of Exeter 
 'Change, was the Canary House, probably also Gary House, noted for its sack " with 
 abricot flavour" (Dryden's Wild Gallant, 1669); and Pepys mentions "Gary House, 
 a house of entertainment." At No. 352 Strand was born, Jan. 29, 1798, Henry Neele, 
 the poet, the son of the able map and heraldic engraver. At No. 355, John Lirn- 
 bird commenced publishing the Mirror, No. 1, Nov. 2, 1822. Westward was EXETEB 
 'CHANGE, described at p. 335. 
 
 " On the demolition of the building in 1830, the writer saw, cut in the stone architrave above the 
 window at the east end, 'ExEiEB CHANGE. 1670,' a date much earlier in its adaptation than is generally 
 supposed." J. 3. Burn. 
 
 In one of the offices abutting on the 'Change was published the Literary Gazette, 
 No. 1, Jan. 25, 1817. Exeter-street and Surleigh-street are named from their being 
 
 * The following were Dr. Johnson's places of residence in and near London : 1. Exeter-street, off 
 Catherine-street, Strand (1737). 2. Greenwich (1737). 3. Woodstock-street, near Hanover-square 
 (1737). 4. Castle-street, Cavendish-square, No. 6 (1738). 5. Strand. 6. Boswell-court. 7. Strand again. 
 8. Bow-street. 9. Holborn. 10. Fetter- lane. 11. Holborn again (at the Golden Anchor, Holbora Bars, 
 1748). 12. Gough-square, No. 17'(1748). 13. Staple Inn (1758). 14. Gray's Inn. 15. Inner-Temple- 
 lane, No. 1 (1760). 16. Johnson's-conrt, Fleet-street, No. 7 (1765). 17. Bolt-court, Fleet-street, No. 8 
 (1776). See Boswell's Life.
 
 TATTERS ALL' 8. 769 
 
 parts of the site of Burleigh and Exeter House. No. 372, Strand, EXETEB HALL, 
 is described at p. 334. 
 
 Southampton-street was named in compliment to Lady Rachel, daughter of Thomas 
 Wriothesley, Earl of Southampton, and wife of William Lord Russell. Near the foot 
 of the street stood Bedford House, the town mansion of the Earl of Bedford : it was 
 principally built of wood, and remained till 1704 ; the garden extended northward, its 
 wall bounding Covent Garden Market. In Southampton-street is a bar-gate j the 
 Duke of Bedford having power to erect walls and gates at the end of every thorough- 
 fare on his estate. Bedford-street occupies part of the site. Between these streets, 
 east and west, is Maiden-lane, where, in a second floor, lodged Andrew Marvell, M.P. 
 for Hull, when he refused a treasury-order for 1000Z. brought to him by Lord Danby 
 from the King. At a perruquier's, with the sign of the White Peruke, lodged Voltaire 
 during part of his three years' residence in England. Some of his correspondence with 
 Swift is dated from this house. 
 
 At No. 26, Maiden-lane, corner of Hand-court, was born, in 1773, J. M. W. Turner, E.A., the land- 
 scape-painter. His father was a hair-dresser ; and the painter, when a boy, coloured prints lor John E. 
 Smith, of Maiden-lane, a mezzotinto engraver. Turner removed to apartments in Hand-court, in 
 the Lane, and during his residence here he exhibited at the Royal Academy fifty-nine pictures. 
 
 Opposite was the Cyder Cellar, opened about 1730 : a curious tract, Adventures 
 Underground, 1750, contains strange notices of this " midnight concert-room" (Notes 
 and Queries, No. 28) : it was a haunt of Professor Person's. At No. 367, Strand, lived 
 Deville, the lamp-manufacturer, and student of phrenology : when young he was 
 employed by Nollekens, the sculptor, to make for him casts from moulds ; which shows 
 the phrenologist to have early developed his abilities in this direction. At No. 485, 
 the Queen's Head public-house, lodged Thomas Parr, when he was brought to Lon- 
 don to be shown to Charles I. ; as stated to J. T. Smith, in 1814, by a person then 
 aged 90, to whom the house was pointed out by his grandfather, then 88. 
 
 Xo. 411, Strand, the Adelphi Theatre, Beazley architect (see THEATEES). No. 429, 
 built for the Westminster Fire and Life Insurance Office, by Cockerell, R.A., had a 
 facade of great originality : the figures (aquarit) over the principal windows beauti- 
 fully characteristic. No. 430, West Strand commences : King' William-street denotes 
 the reign in which the improvements were made (see CHASING- CBOSS HOSPITAL, 
 p. 436). No. 437, LOWTHEB ABCADE (see p. 20). 
 
 No. 448, Electric Telegraph Office. Upon the roof is the 'Electric Time Signal 
 Sail, completed in June, 1852, when the following were its details : 
 
 The signal consists of a zinc ball, 6 feet in diameter, supported by a rod, which passes down the 
 centre of the column, and carries at its base a piston, which, in its descent, plunges into a cast-iron air- 
 cylinder; the escape of the air being regulated so as at pleasure to check the momentum of the ball, 
 and prevent concussion. The raising of the ball half-mast high takes place daily at 10 minutes to 1 ; at 
 6 minutes to 1 it is raised to its full height; and at 1 precisely, and simultaneously with the fall of the 
 ball at Greenwich, it is liberated by the galvanic current sent from the Observatory through a wire laid 
 for that purpose. The same galvanic current which liberates the ball in the Strand, moves a needle 
 upon the transit-clock at the Observatory : the time occupied by the transmission being about l-3000th 
 part of a second ; and by the unloosing of the machinery which supports the ball, less than one-fifth 
 pirt of a second. The true moment of 1 o'clock is, therefore, indicated by the first appearance of the 
 line of light between the dark cross over the ball and the body of the ball itself. In the event of acci- 
 dental failure at 1 o'clock, the ball is raised half-mast high, and dropped at 2 o'clock. When fully raised 
 the ball is 129 feet above the level of the Thames, and falls 10 feet. 
 
 No. 452, the Golden Cross Sotel : the old coaching inn stood further west. " I 
 often," says Lamb, "shed tears in the motley Strand, for fulness of joy at so much 
 life." (Letters, vol. i.) 
 
 TATTEESALL'S, 
 
 THE celebrated sporting rendezvous and auction mart for horses, known as the 
 " Corner" (i.e., at Hyde Park Corner), in the rear of St. George's Hospital, and 
 approached from Grosvenor-place, was established by Richard Tattersall, in 1766, who 
 leased the ground, then an open place between Piccadilly and the hamlet of Knights- 
 bridge, from Earl Grosvenor. Tattersall, who had been stud-groom to the second and 
 last Duke of Kingston, in 1779, founded his fortune by purchasing from Lord Boling- 
 broke, then in difficulties, the celebrated stud-horse, Highflyer. Tattersall had pre- 
 viously sold off the Duke of Kingston's stud; and an injunction was applied for 
 
 3 D
 
 770 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 December 14, 1774, to restrain payment of the money to the Duchess, then under 
 indictment. Tattersall is alluded to in the Belle's Stratagem, first performed 1782 : 
 " Flutter : Oh, yes ! I stopped at Tattersall's as I came by, and there I found Lord 
 James Jessamy, Sir William Wilding," &c. The Prince of Wales was a constant 
 patron of Tattersall's, where was a bust of his Eoyal Highness in his eighteenth year. 
 Here the Jockey Club erected their club-house, elaborately decorated by Italian artists : 
 the Duke of Queensbury (" Old Q.") and Selwyn were members of the club. Richard 
 Tattersall, of whom two portraits exist, died January 20, 1795, aged 72 ; he was suc- 
 ceeded in his business by his only son Edmund, who carried it on until his death, Jan. 
 23, 1810 : his son, Edmund, who founded the foreign trade, then succeeded ; who, 
 dying Dec. 11, 1851, the business came to its present proprietor. In 1852, Tattersall's 
 annual average of horses brought to the hammer was estimated at 45,000. ; there 
 were 97 stalls and 13 loose boxes, or standing for 110. In the counting-house hung 
 the regulations, dated 1780. The owner of a Derby winner some few years back had 
 to receive about 70,OOOZ. from the Ring, and on the settling-day it was in the hands of 
 his bankers, with the exception of very few hundreds. On show and sale days the 
 display of horses was often very fine. The " Book-making" before the Derby or St. 
 Leger was crowded with peers and plebeians, butchers and brokers, betting-list 
 keepers, insurers, guardsmen and prize-fighters, Manchester manufacturers, Yorkshire 
 farmers, sham captains, ci-devant gentlemen, &c. In " the Room," which was regu- 
 lated by the Jockey Club, was a cartoon of the race-horse " Eclipse." We have seen a 
 clever painting, by Alken, of the horse-auction at Tattersall's. The lease of the old 
 premises expired in 1865 ; fine fruit had been grown in the gardens, whence were sup- 
 plied, for many years, the grapes and pines for the Waterloo Banquet, at Apsley House. 
 In 1864, Tattersall's was removed to newly-erected premises between the junction 
 of the Brompton and Knightsbridge roads, which is much nearer to the great quarter 
 of fashion and wealth than Hyde Park-corner was at the beginning of the present 
 century. The New Tattersall's is described at p. 491. 
 
 Tattersall's is the greatest mart for horses in the world. Sales take place here every Monday through- 
 out the year, and in the height of the season on Thursday also. As many as 150 lots have been offered 
 in one day ; the average number 100. The proprietors, the Messrs. Tattersall's, also sell annually the 
 produce of the Eoyal Breeding Establishment at Hampton Court Paddocks, and other thoroughbred 
 produce ; also studs of race-horses at York, Doncaster, and Newmarket during the racing season ; and to 
 them are usually entrusted the sale of packs of hounds. The highest price ever paid for a horse at 
 Messrs. Tattersall's of late years was 3100 gs. for Orlando ; and the highest price for a pack of hounds, 
 the property of G. Osbaldeston, Esq., 3000 gs. 
 
 TELEGEAPHS, ELECTRIC. 
 
 rjlHE Electro-telegrapmc system in London has been carried out by the Electric 
 J- Telegraph Company, at their Central Oifice in Lothbury, which has thus become 
 the metropolis of stations. Here the whole system was first clearly exhibited ; the 
 Company having purchased all Cooke and Wheatstone's patents, and adopted their 
 peculiar features, the suspended conducting -wire and the Double Needle Telegraph ; 
 and, in certain cases, Mr. Bain's chemical Printing Telegraph. The Office is in 
 Founders' -court, on the north side of the Bank of England ; where anciently dwelt 
 founders " that cast candlesticks, chafing-dishes, spice-mortars," &c., and " turned 
 them bright with the feet, making a loathsome noise, whence the name of lioth-lerie, 
 or court " (Stow) ; all which is strikingly contrasted with the wonder-working silence 
 of the Electric Telegraph operations. 
 
 The entrance to the office is bold and picturesque : above the doorway is a balcony ; 
 and between two enriched Ionic pilasters, carrying an arched pediment, is the large 
 transparent dial of an electric clock. You first enter a hall 42 by 32 feet, entirely 
 lighted from the coved roof of plate-glass in panels. At the east and west ends is a 
 screen of two stories ; both communicating with the apartments in which are the 
 electric-telegraph machines, and the two ends are connected by side- galleries, there 
 being thus two railed stories or galleries throughout the hall ; at each end, below, are 
 counters, where clerks, who receive the messages, enter them, and pass them to 
 another set of clerks, who transmit them to those employed at the machines above by 
 lifts or small trays, working by cords in square tubes, a lift and bell to each desk.
 
 TELEGRAPHS, ELECTRIC. 771 
 
 Behind the counter is the " translating office," where all messages are transferred into 
 the abbreviated code arranged by the Company. Such messages as descriptions of 
 persons suspected of dishonesty are not translated, but sent in full : only the lists of 
 prices in corn, share, and other markets are so abbreviated. 
 
 Several wires are laid to each terminus, lest any of them become defective, when the 
 connexion can be carried on by other wires, as the expense of taking up the pavement 
 would be enormous for so slight a cause. The wires are of copper, and are covered 
 with gutta-percha, India-rubber, or some resinous substances, which, being non-con- 
 ductors, prevent the escape of the electricity. The wires from the several railway 
 termini are brought through iron pipes laid down under the pavement of the streets ; 
 and meeting in Founders'-court, are continued through the south wall of the basement 
 of the station, and descending into the " test-box," are fastened there to pegs fitted 
 into the back of the box. At the bottom run a corresponding number of " house- 
 wires," and these go to the machines in the galleries. Connexion is maintained 
 between the line and house-wires by small wires running perpendicularly from one to 
 the other. All the wires are numbered at the desks to correspond from batteries to 
 machines, and from machines to the test-box, that the electric circle may thus be. 
 complete. In the galleries the wires are carried along the ceilings from the respective 
 machines to the battery-chambers and the test-box ; the battery-wires running east 
 and west, and the house-wires to test-box north and south. Several long and narrow 
 chambers are devoted to the batteries, which are so numbered and arranged in 
 reference to the wires, that any defect can be immediately rectified. Each railway 
 has a division to itself, and thus all risk of confusion is avoided. The communications 
 are spelt through letter by letter, and each word is verified by the receiver to the 
 sender as the message proceeds. 
 
 In 1851, the Admiralty Semaphores were removed, and the Electric Telegraph sub- 
 stituted for them. By this means, despatches can be sent off and received by night or 
 day, and in any kind of weather ; whereas, the Semaphores could only work by day, 
 and that in fine weather : this was a great inconvenience to Government, especially 
 the naval department, which had only one line, from the Admiralty, Whitehall, to 
 Portsmouth ; whilst now, orders can be transmitted in a moment to the Royal 
 arsenals. In 1851, the Needle Telegraph of Wheatstone was carried round the Great 
 Exhibition Building in Hyde Park, and thence to the Police Station, Great Scotland- 
 yard, Whitehall. And in 1852, the exact Greenwich time was first conveyed by the 
 Electric Telegraph to various parts of England. 
 
 Besides the private message department, there is a general intelligence office, in which the news 
 published in the morning journals is condensed and transmitted to the Exchanges of Liverpool, Bristol, 
 Manchester, Glasgow, and other chief provincial centres of business. During the day the London and 
 other news is collected, condensed, and transmitted to the offices of upwards of 400 provincial papers, 
 which thus receive, during the night before their publication, the most recent intelligence of every sort 
 received by telegraph from all parts of Europe, besides the current news of the United Kingdom to the 
 latest moment. 
 
 There are also curious special arrangements : thus, a wire is exclusively appropriated to communica- 
 tions between the Octagon Hall of the Houses of Parliament and the telegraphic station in St. James's- 
 etreet, the centre of the West-end clubs. This is a call-wire for Members. The Company employ 
 reporters during the sitting of Parliament to make an abstract of the business of the two Houses as it 
 proceeds; this is forwarded, at very short intervals, to the office in St. James's-street, where it is get 
 up and printed ; and this flying-sheet is sent to the principal clubs and to the Royal Italian Opera. The 
 Government wires go from Somerset House to the Admiralty, and thence, in one direction, to Ports- 
 mouth and Plymouth by the South Western and Great Western Railways ; and in the other to the naval 
 establishments at Deptford, Woolwich, Chatham, Sheerness, and to the Cinque Ports of Deal and Dover. 
 They are worked by a staff provided by the telegraph companies, and the more important messages are 
 usually sent in cipher, the meaning of which is unknown even to the telegraphic clerks employed in 
 transmitting it. In addition to the wires already spoken of, street branches run from Buckingham 
 Palace to Scotland-yard (the head police-office), to the station at Charing Cross, and thence to the City; 
 whilst the Post-office, Lloyd's, Capel-court, and the Corn Exchange communicate directly with the 
 central offices. Abridged from Lardner's Electric Telegraph, by Bright, 1867. 
 
 " The Nerves of London" is Wheatstone's system of wires which may be seen stretching 
 across the sky-line of great thoroughfares, and visibly triangulating the town in every 
 direction ; and along which, by a simplified apparatus, messages are sent at the rate of 
 100 letters a minute. The system of fine copper is hung on the iron wires, strained 
 from poles from the house-tops. At intervals carefully selected, the area of London is 
 divided by a system of triangulation, the posts that form the meeting-points of three 
 series of cables becoming the points at. which all these wires have to be distributed. 
 
 3 D 2
 
 772 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 TEMPLE, INNER AND MIDDLE. (See pp. 461-464.) 
 
 TEMPLE BAR, 
 
 "DETWEEN the east end of the Strand and the west end of Fleet-street, divides the 
 L' City of London from the liberty of Westminster; or rather, "it opens not 
 immediately into the City itself (which terminated at Ludgate), but into the liberty 
 or freedom thereof" (Hatton, 1708). The original division from the county (hence 
 Shire-lane) was by posts and rails, a chain, and a bar (as at Holborn, Smithfield, and 
 Whitechapel bars) placed across the street, and named from its immediate vicinity to 
 the Temple. The bar gave place to " a house of timber " raised across the street, 
 with a narrow gateway underneath, and an entrance on the south side under the house 
 above. At the coronation of Queen Mary, " the Temple-barre was newly painted and 
 hanged" (Stoic). This was taken down after the Great Fire, and it is shown in 
 Hollar's seven-sheet Map of London j and in the Bird's-eye View, about 1601. After 
 the Great Fire, Charles II. insisted upon the citizens taking down the Bar, when 
 they, pleading their " weak state and inability," on account of the great expense of 
 rebuilding public edifices consumed in the Great Fire, the King promised to assist them 
 with funds ; the Corporation undertook the work ; the old Bar was accordingly taken 
 down, and the present Bar erected by Sir Christopher Wren, of Portland-stone, but 
 the royal promise was not performed. The Bar basement is rusticated ; it has a large 
 flattened arch in the centre for the carriage-way, and a smaller semicircular arch on 
 each side for foot-passengers. Each facade has four Corinthian pilasters, an entablature, 
 and arched pediment. On the west, in two niches, are statues of Charles I. and 
 Charles II. in Koman costume ; and over the keystone of the centre arch were the 
 royal arms : on the east, in similar niches, are statues of James I. and his queen, 
 Anne of Denmark (often described as Elizabeth) ; and over the keystone were the City 
 arms. Inscription : 
 
 " Erected in the year 1670, Sir Samuel Starling Mayor ; continued in the year 1671, Sir Richard Ford 
 Lord Mayor ; and finished in the year 1672, Sir George Waterman Lord Mayor." 
 
 The upper portion has two bold cartouches, or scrolls, as supporters ; but the fruit 
 and flowers sculptured in the pediment, and the supporters of the royal arms, which 
 were placed over the extremities of the posterns (now widened), have disappeared ; 
 the inscription is scarcely legible ; and the stone-work of the whole is weather-worn : 
 in 1852 the Common Council refused to spend 1500Z. to restore the bar as Wren left 
 it. The statues are by John Bushnell, who died in 1701 ; that of Charles I. has lost 
 the baton. A scarce print shows the bar, and the adjoining gabled houses at the com- 
 mencement of the 18th century. In the centre of each fa9ade is a semicircular- 
 headed window, lighting an apartment now held of the City, at the annual rent of 
 50Z., by Messrs. Child, the bankers, as a depository for their account-books. Above 
 the centre of the pediment, upon iron spikes, were formerly placed the heads and limbs 
 of persons executed for treason. The first of these revolting displays was one of the 
 quarters of Sir Thomas Armstrong, implicated in the Rye-House Plot ; and next the 
 quarters of Sir William Perkins and Sir John Friend, and Perkins's head, who had 
 conspired to assassinate William III. 
 
 "April 10, 1696. A dismal sight, which many pitied. I think there never was such a Temple Bar 
 till now, except in the time of King Charles II., viz. Sir Thomas Armstrong." Evelyn's Diary. 
 
 After the Rebellions of 1715 and 1745, the heads of some of the victims were placed 
 upon the Bar ; and in 1723, the head of Counsellor Layer, who had conspired for the 
 restoration of the Pretender ; Layer's head remained here for 30 years, till blown 
 down in a gale of wind, when it was picked up in the street by an attorney. But the 
 heads last set up here were those of Townley and Fletcher, the rebels, in 1746. Walpole 
 writes, August 16, 1746 : " I have been this morning at the Tower, and passed under 
 the new heads at Temple Bar, where people make a trade of letting spying-glasses at a 
 halfpenny a look ;" and in 1825, a person, aged 87, remembered the above heads being 
 seen with a telescope from Leicester Fields, the ground between which and Temple Bar 
 was then thinly built over. (J. T. Smith.) In 1766 a man was detected discharging
 
 THAMES EMBANKMENT. 773 
 
 musket-balls, from a steel cross-bow, at these two heads ; which, however, remained 
 there until March 31, 1772, when one of the heads fell down ; and shortly after, the 
 remaining one was swept down by the wind.* The Bar *vas painted by Hooker in 
 1772. The last of the iron poles, or spikes, was not removed from the Bar until the 
 commencement of the present century. Mr. Rogers, the banker-poet, who died 
 December 18, 1855, remembered "one of the heads of the rebels upon a pole at 
 Temple Bar, a black, shapeless lump. Another pole was bare, the head having dropped." 
 The old gates of Temple Bar remain : they are of oak, panelled, and are surmounted 
 by a rudely carved festoon of fruit and flowers. These gates were originally shut at 
 night, and guarded by watchmen ; and in our time they have been closed in cases of 
 upprehended tumult. Upon the visit of the Sovereign to the City, and upon the procla- 
 mation of a new Sovereign, or of Peace, it was formerly customary to keep the gates 
 closed, until admission was formally demanded; the gates were then opened; and upon 
 the Royal visit, the Lord Mayor surrendered the City sword to the Sovereign, who 
 re-delivered it to his Lordship. 
 
 At Temple liar the above ceremony was observed when Queen Elizabeth proceeded to St. Paul's to 
 return thanks for the defeat of the Spanish Armada; when Fairfax and Cromwell and the Parliament 
 went in state to dine with the City ; when Queen Anne went to St. Paul's to return thanks for the Duke 
 of JIarlborough's victories; when Queen Victoria dined at Guildhall iu the year of her accession, 1837; 
 and when her Majesty went to open the New Eoyal Exchange in 1844; but on the Queen's visit in 1851, 
 the ceremony at Temple Bar was entirely dispensed with. The custom at the Proclamation of Peace, or 
 the Accession of the Sovereign, had been for a herald, attended by trumpeters, to knock with his baton 
 at the closed gate, when the City Marshal inquired " Who comes there ?" and the herald having replied, 
 was admitted, and conducted to the Lord Mayor, who directed that the whole of the cavalcade should be 
 admitted ; and the proclamation was read opposite Chancery-lane. Such was the observance upon the 
 accession of George IV., William IV., and Queen Victoria. In 1844 the ceremony consisted merely of 
 closing the gates just before the royal procission reached the Bar, and re-opening them upou the 
 announcement of the Queen's arrival. 
 
 At the funeral of the Duke of Wellington, November 18, 1852, Temple Bar was 
 entirely covered with draperies of black cloth and velvet, and cloth -of-gold ; decorated 
 with the armorial bearings and orders of the Duke in proper colours ; silvered cor- 
 nices, fringe, urns, and a circle of flambeaux upon the pediment ; the whole presenting 
 an impressive effect of solemn triumph and gloomy grandeur. The Bar was appro- 
 priately decorated and illuminated at the marriage of the Prince of Wales and the 
 Princess Alexandra of Denmark, March, 1863. 
 
 THAMES EMBANKMENT. 
 
 TO the Romans we are indebted for the first embankment of the Thames; and, 
 according to Tacitus, they pressed the Britons into the work. The maintenance 
 and repair of these embankments have been traced to the reign of Edward I. ; but the 
 encroachments of wharfs and other buildings have materially contracted the water-way 
 immediately through the centre of the metropolis ; so that the only relic of the old line 
 is to be seen adjoining Waterloo Bridge. For example : the distance of the river front 
 from Westminster Hall, in an old plan, is 100 feet ; it is now 300 feet. Several plans 
 were proposed for the embankment of the Thames ; some including railways, arcades, 
 terraces, promenades, &c. The portions already embanked are the terraces of the Custom 
 House, Somerset House, the Adelphi, the New Houses of Parliament, Thames Bank ; 
 although, more than a century and a half since, Wren designed " a commodious quay 
 on the whole bank of the river, from Blackfriars to the Tower." A showy architectural 
 plan was published by Colonel Trench; and in 1845, John Martin, the painter, 
 designed a railway along both sides of the Thames, with an open walk from Hunger- 
 ford to the Tower, and from Vauxhall to Deptford. The next portion was the embank- 
 ment above Vauxhall Bridge, to be continued to Battersea Bridge. 
 
 The Embankment, J. W. Bazalgette, engineer, is now in course of construction by 
 the Metropolitan Board of Works, on the north side. 
 
 The foundations are laid upon a connected line of iron caissons and concrete, upon which is built the 
 brick granite-faced embankment-wall ; behind which, and underneath the roadway, it is proposed to con- 
 
 * See Temple Bar, the City Grolgotha, by a Member of the Middle Temple, sm. 4to, 1853, for a narra- 
 tive of these occurrences, in illustration of the revolting effects of capital punishments and public 
 executions.
 
 774 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 struct the subways and sewers, an arrangement which will add much to the stability of the embankment- 
 wall. The total length of the embankment is about 7000ft., but it is completely divided by the bridges 
 into three sections : the first section from Westminster to Hunsrerford bridge, the second from Hunger- 
 ford bridge to Waterloo, and the third from Waterloo to Blackfriars bridge. 
 
 At Westminster-bridge the roadway, which rises at an inclination of 1 in 80 to the level of the bridge, 
 is set back some 30 or 40 feet from the face of the embankment-wall, and the intervening space reserved 
 as a promenade and steamboat-pier, having access from the bridge by a wide and imposing flight of steps 
 opposite the Houses of Parliament. Between Westminster and Hungerford bridges will be landing-stairs 
 for smaller craft, and here it is proposed to introduce the beautiful water-gate now situate at the end of 
 Buckingham-street. On either side of Hungerford and Waterloo bridges, will be steam-boat landing-places, 
 massive granite piers with moulded pedestals rising about 30 ft. above the roadway, to be enriched with 
 bas-reliefs and surmounted by groups of statuary. Half way between Hungerford and Waterloo bridges, 
 will be a flight of landing steps 60 ft. wide, projecting into the river, and flanked at each end with massive 
 piers, rising to the level of a few feet above the roadway, and to be surmounted with colossal figures 
 of river deities, or other appropriate groups. The central feature will be an approach for foot-passengers 
 from the high level roadway to the river by a second flight of steps, descending to the level of the lower 
 or embankment roadway. On either side of this approach a line of shops is to be erected on the land side 
 of the embankment roadway, the backs of which would form a retaining wall to the ornamental crescent 
 and promenade above them. Between Waterloo and Blackfriars bridges, and in front of Arundel-street, 
 a steamboat pier will be constructed, in lieu of the present Essex-street pier, designed upon the same 
 principle as those adjoining the bridges. The embankment-wall itself is to be enriched with mouldings 
 of a simple character down to the level of high-water mark, the continuous line of moulding being broken 
 by the introduction, at intervals, of massive blocks of granite to carry ornamental lamps, and by occa- 
 sional recesses for promenade seats. 
 
 The section between Temple Gardens and Blackfriars bridge will be constructed on arches, so as to 
 admit of the passage under it to docks between the roadway and the shore of barges and lighters; 
 besides a subway for gas and water pipes and electric telegraphs. The embankment will pass by an easy 
 curve to the level of Bridge-street, Blackfriars, where the line of roadway will be continued by the new 
 street to the Mansion House. 
 
 The Embankment on the south side, between Westminster bridge and Vauxhall, was commenced in 
 1865 ; the foreshore of the first section being the site of the new St. Thomas's Hospital ; the new em- 
 bankment here redeeming six acres from the Thames. There will also be a new road, 60 feet wide, in 
 the rear of the Hospital, continuing Stangate to Lambeth Palace. 
 
 THAMES EIVER, TKE. 
 
 npIIE metropolis, extending about 15 miles along the Thames, although occupying 
 -- little more than one-thirtieth of its entire course, renders it the most important 
 commercial river in the world. The name is inferred to be of British origin : Caesar 
 writes it Tamesis, evidently Tames or Thames with a Latin termination. The river 
 rises in the south-eastern slopes of the Coteswold Hills ; for a short distance it divides 
 Gloucestershire from Wiltshire; next Berkshire from Oxfordshire, and then from. 
 Buckinghamshire ; it then divides Surrey and Middlesex, separating the cities of West- 
 minster and London from Lambeth, Southwark, Bermondsey, and Rotherhithe ; thence 
 to its mouth, it divides Kent and Essex, and falls into the sea at the Nore, about 110 
 miles nearly due east from the source, and about twice that distance measured along 
 the windings of the river. From having no sand-bar at its mouth, it is navigable for 
 sea-vessels to London Bridge, about 45 miles from the Nore, or nearly one-fourth of its 
 entire length ! In its course through the metropolis, it varies from 800 to 1500 feet 
 in breadth ; gradually expanding, as it approaches the Nore, to seven miles broad. 
 
 Drayton describes, as renowned for " ships and swans, Queen Thames." Cowley 
 thus refers to Old London Bridge impeding the prospect : 
 
 "Stopp'd by the houses of that wondrous street, 
 Which rides o'er the broad river like a fleet." 
 
 "London with Westminster, by reason of the turning of the river, much resembles the shape (includ- 
 ing Southwark) of a great tchale : Westminster being the under jaw ; St. James's Park the mouth ; the 
 Pall Mall, &c., northward, the upper jaw: Cock and Pye Fields, or the meeting of the seven streets, the 
 eye; the rest of the City and Southwark to East Smithfield, the body; and thence eastward to Lime- 
 house, the tail : and 'tis, probably, in as great a proportion the largest of towns, as that is of fUb.es." 
 Hatton, 1708. 
 
 The very bold reach made by the Thames adds greatly to the effect of the prospect ; and by this 
 means, before the addition of the present front of Buckingham Palace, the Sovereign, when seated upon 
 her throne, commanded a view of the dome of St. Paul's, and the spires and towers of the City churches. 
 
 TTie Tide ascends about 15 miles above London Bridge to Teddington (Tide-end- 
 town) : here an immense volume of fresh water, derived from the arc of the drainage 
 of the Thames (calculated at 800,000,000 gallons a day, or about 16 square miles, 90 
 feet deep), flows over Teddington Lock, and mixes with the water below. Even at 
 ebb-tide there are 12 or 13 feet of water in the fair way of the river above Greenwich ; 
 the mean range of the tides at London Bridge is about 17 feet ; of the highest spring-
 
 THAMES RI7EE. 775 
 
 tides about 22 feet. Up to Woolwich the river is navigable for ships of any burden ; 
 to Blackwall for those of 1400 tons. 
 
 Thames Sports and Pageants. Fitzstephen chronicles the water tournament and 
 quintain. Richard II. was rowed in his tapestried barge, probably the first royal 
 barge upon the Thames : and here the king, seeing the poet Gower, called him on 
 board, and commanded him " to make a book after his best," which was the origin of 
 the Confessio Amantis. In the 15th and 16th centuries, and onward to very recent 
 days, each palace on the north bank of the Thames had its water-gate, and its retinue 
 of barge and wherries. The Thames was the royal road from Westminster and White- 
 hall to the Tower, and from thence to Greenwich. State prisoners were conveyed by the 
 Thames to the Traitors' Gate at the Tower, and the Star-Chamber victims to a similar 
 gate at the Fleet. The landing-places on the Thames appear to have been even less 
 changed than the thoroughfare itself; for in the account of the penance of Eleanor 
 Cobham, Duchess of Gloucester, in 1440, we find named Temple-bridge (stairs), the 
 Old Swan, and Queenhithe ; and in early maps of London, are Broken Wharf, Paul's 
 Wharf, Essex Stairs, and Whitehall Stairs ; all which exist by the same names to the 
 present day. Cardinal Wolsey, when he delivered up York Place, " took his barge at 
 his privy stairs, and so went by water to Putney," on his way to Esher. Sir Thomas 
 More kept his great barge at Chelsea, which he gave to Sir Thomas Audley, his suc- 
 cessor in the chancellorship, with whom he placed his eight watermen. In the Aqua 
 Triumphalis, in 1662, the City welcomed Charles II. from Hampton Court to White- 
 hall, the barges of the Twelve Companies being carried as far as Chelsea ; and mostly 
 all ended with a pageant. James II., 1688, embarked at Whitehall : " I saw him take 
 barge," says Evelyn ; " a sad sight." The last primate who kept his state barge at 
 Lambeth was Archbishop Wake, who died 1737. Early in the 17th century, Howel 
 numbered among the river glories, "forests of masts which are perpetually upon her; 
 the variety of smaller wooden bottoms playing up and down " and Stow computes 
 that there were in his time 2000. In 1630, the river had its own laureat, John 
 Taylor "the Water-poet/' who thus sings : 
 
 " But, noble Thames, whilst I can hold a pen, 
 I will divulge thy glory unto men ; 
 Thou, in the morning, when my coin is scant, 
 Before the evening doth supply my want." 
 
 Taylor knew Ben Jonson ; and the Water-poet " probably had the good fortune to 
 ferry Shakspeare from Whitehall to Paris Garden." (C. Knight.) 
 
 The Folly on the Thames was a floating " musical summer-house" usually moored 
 between Somerset-stairs and the Savoy ; the Queen of William III. once visited it. 
 
 The existing sports on the Thames consist of rowing, boat-racing, and yachting, or 
 sailing, throughout the summer and autumn; by clubs, numbering several members 
 of the Universities of Oxford, Cambridge, and London ; the scholars of Westminster, 
 St. Paul's, and other academic foundations. The match for Dogget's coat and silver 
 badge is rowed for every 1st of August under the direction of the Fishmongers' Com- 
 pany, of which Dogget was a member, as described at page 400. 
 
 The Thames Watermen formerly had their cant dialect, of which Ned Ward and 
 Tom Brown give specimens ; and the " Thames ribaldry" (Spectator) has lasted to our 
 time, in which watermen's disputes have been settled by Joe Hatch, " the Thames 
 Chancellor." Strype was told by a member of the Watermen's Company, that there 
 were in his day, about 110 years ago, 40,000 watermen on the rolls of the Company, 
 and that upon occasion they could furnish 28,000 men for the fleet, and that there 
 were then 8000 in service ; but these numbers are questionable. 
 
 State Barges. The first water pageant of the City of London dates from 1454, 
 when John Norman, the Mayor, was rowed to Westminster in his barge ; but the Com- 
 panies had their barges for water processions half a century before this; and the 
 Grocers' accounts, temp. Henry VI., mention the hiring of barges to attend the 
 Sheriffs' show by water. Hall chronicles the Mayor and citizens accompanying Anne 
 Boleyn at her coronation, in 1533, from Greenwich to the Tower, in their barges. 
 The barge was retained in the Lord Mayor's state until our time, and included the 
 Water-bailiff, one of his lordship's esquires, with a salary of 500?. a year, a shallop and
 
 776 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 eight men ; and in the suite were a barge-master, and thirty -two City watermen. The 
 Lord Mayor's barge was richly carved and gilt, and cost in 1807, 2579Z. A few of the 
 City companies maintained their state-barges " to attend my Lord Mayor :" as the 
 Fishmongers, Vintners, and Dyers, Stationers, Skinners, and Watermen. The Gold- 
 smiths' Company sold their barge in 1850, and have not replaced it. A capacious 
 barge, built in 1816, named the "Maria Wood" (from the then Lord Mayor's 
 eldest daughter), cost 50001. The Queen long maintained her river state ; and one of the 
 royal barges, built more than a century and a quarter since, is a curious craft : the 
 rowers wore scarlet state-liveries. The Lords of the Admiralty had likewise their state 
 barge ; and in the Museum of the Society of Antiquaries is one of their old massive 
 silver badges. This river-state has, however, been abolished ; and excursions are now 
 made in steamers. The Dyers' and Vintners' Companies still keep swans on the river. 
 
 State Funerals by the Thames are rare : the remains of Anne of Bohemia, and 
 Henry VII., who died at Richmond, were conveyed with great pomp by the river to 
 Westminster ; and the body of Queen Elizabeth was " brought by water to Whitehall." 
 The remains of Lord Nelson, after lying in state in the Painted Hall of Greenwich 
 Hospital, were conveyed by the Thames* to the Admiralty, Jan. 8, 1806, and next day 
 were deposited in St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 THE POET OF LONDON is described at pp. 685-687. 
 
 THE BRIDGES across the Thames at the metropolis are described at pp. 65-75. 
 
 The two churches immediately below London bridge attest the occupation of London by the Danes 
 and Northmen : St. Olave's South wark, originally dedicated to the Norwegian king, Olaf the Saint ; and 
 St. Magnus the Martyr, from St. Magnus, a Norwegian jarl, killed in the 12th century in Orkney, where 
 the cathedral in Kirkwall is also dedicated to him. 
 
 THE DOCKS (which have cost more than 8,000,000. in the present century) are 
 described at pp. 309-312. 
 
 The earliest Water-supply was derived from the Thames, by direct carriage, or from 
 the bournes or streams which flowed through the town, but are now covered sewers. 
 The water was laid from these springs in leaden pipes, as early as the reign of Henry III., 
 to CONDUITS in various parts of the town (see pp. 287-289), whence it was conveyed 
 in buckets and carts : from Tyburn in 1236 ; from Highbury in 1438 ; from Hackney 
 in 1535 ; from Hampstead in 1543 j and from Hoxton in 1546. Lilly, the astrologer, 
 when a youth, went to the Thames, accompanied at times by City apprentices, to carry 
 water in buckets from the river, for domestic purposes. In 1535, water was brought 
 from six fountains in the town of Tylurn, this being the first instance on record of 
 water being conveyed to the city by means of pipes. In 1581, Peter Morice threw 
 a jet of the Thames over old St. Magnus' steeple, before which " no such thing was 
 known in England as this raising of water." Next year were formed London Bridge 
 Waterworks, described at p. 67. In 1613 was opened the NEW RIVER (see pp. 609-612), 
 when commenced the modern systems of supply, now executed by eight Companies. 
 
 Fish. Fitzstephen describes the Thames, at London, as " a fishful river " and its 
 fishermen were accustomed to present their tithe of salmon at the high altar of St. 
 Peter, and claim on that occasion the right to sit at the Prior of Westminster's own 
 table. At this period the river, even below the site of the present London Bridge, 
 abounded with fish. In 1376-77, a law was passed in parliament for the saving of 
 salmon and other fry of fish ; and in 1381-=-82, " swannes" that came through the bridge, 
 or beneath the bridge, were the fees of the Constable of the Tower. Howel says : 
 " When the idler was tired of bowls, he had nothing to do but to step down to Queen- 
 hithe or the Temple," and have an afternoon of angling. " Go to the river : what a 
 pleasure it is to go thereon in the summer time, in boat or barge, or to go a-floundering 
 among the fishermen !" In the regulations, too, of the " Committee of Free Fisher- 
 men" is a provision that fishermen were not to come nearer London than the Old Swan, 
 on the north bank of the river, and St. Mary Overies, on the south. Pennant describes 
 the catch of lamprey of the greatest importance, immense quantities being exchanged 
 with the Dutch fishermen for other descriptions of fish. Formerly Blackfriars and 
 Westminster bridges were anglers' stations ; but the fish disappeared from the Thames 
 At London. Blackwall is, however, still famed for its whitebait (see pp. 57-58), and 
 fish are taken in the docks below London Bridge. 
 
 * The Author of this volume, born August 17, 1801, has a distinct recollection of having seen thig 
 Funeral Procession upon the Thames from a back window of a house at the south foot of London Bridge.
 
 THANES-STREET. 777 
 
 1749, June 7. Two of the greatest draughts of salmon were caught in the Thames, below Richmond, 
 that have been known for some years ; one net having thirty fine large salmon in it, and the other 
 twenty-two, which lowered the price of fresh salmon at Billingsgate from 1. to 6d. per Ib. Gentle- 
 man's Jfagazine. 
 
 Strange fish have strayed here. In 1391, a dolphin, " ten feet in length," played 
 himself in the Thames at London to the bridge. Evelyn tells of a whale, fifty-eight 
 feet in length, killed between Deptford and Greenwich in 1658 ; and nearer the mouth 
 of the river (at Grays) a whale of the above length was taken in 1809, and another in 
 1849. " In 1783, a two-toothed cachalot, 21 ft. long, was taken above London Bridge." 
 Pennant. 
 
 The Steam Navigation of the Thames exceeds that of any other river in the world. 
 The first steam-boat left the Thames, for Eichmond, in 1814 ; the next for Gravesend, 
 in 1815 ; and in the same year for Margate. The Gravesend steamers soon superseded 
 the sailing-boats with decks, which, in 1737, had displaced the tilt-boats mentioned temp. 
 Richard II. The Margate steamers, in like manner, superseded the sailing "hoy." 
 The steam traffic attained vast numbers. In the year 1861, 3,207,558 passengers 
 landed and embarked at Old Shades-pier on board the penny boats of the London and 
 Westminster Steamboat Company. This number has, however, been considerably 
 reduced by railway competition. 
 
 Water. In 1858, the water had become very impure by the sewer-water emptying 
 itself into the Thames, and the sulphate of lime in it causing an insufferable stench, 
 the chloride of sodium denoting its origin among the human habitations on the 
 banks of the river j added to which were the organic matters. Man pours into the 
 Thames the refuse of a hundred towns and villages, besides the washings of manured 
 lands, before it gets to Teddington Lock. The water, already impure, is taken at the 
 rate of 100,000,000 of gallons a day, and after washing London and its inhabitants, 
 inside and out, is again returned to the Thames, bearing with it the vegetable and 
 animal refuse of dwelling-houses, mews, cow and slaughter-houses, and all sorts of 
 manufactories in which organic matters are used. (Dr. Lankester). In the following 
 year, 1859, the cleansing of the Thames by disinfectants was commenced ; and during 
 the season there were employed about 4281 tons of chalk-lime, 478 tons of chloride of 
 lime, and 56 tons of carbolic acid, at a cost of 17,733. 
 
 Notwithstanding the many early measures to purify the Thames, we read in the 
 London chronicles of frequent and terrible ravages by the Plague, Sweating Sick- 
 ness, and other disorders. The Thames was then a pure and pleasant stream : still the 
 Plague raged, and carried off thousands, and that at a time when the population of 
 London was probably under 300,000 persons not many more than the population of 
 St. Pancras at present. This shows that the purity of the Thames alone did not 
 prevent the pestilence. 
 
 The Conservancy of tlie Thames by the Corporation of London dates from 1st 
 Edward IV. ; the Mayor acting as bailiff over the waters (in preserving its fisheries 
 and channels), and as meter of marketable commodities fruit, garden-stuff, salt, and 
 oysters, corn and coal from Staines to Yantlett Creek (80 miles). The Admiralty 
 also claimed a certain jurisdiction ; and the Corporation of the Trinity House had 
 authority to remove shoals, to regulate lastage and ballastage, to provide lighthouses 
 and beacons, to license pilots, mariners, &c. The powers of the Corporation were 
 neither large nor well defined, and the result not being satisfactory, a Board of Con- 
 servancy was, in 1857, created by Act of Parliament, consisting of 12 members, of whom 
 the City nominated six in addition to the Lord Mayor, who was ex officio chairman ; and 
 the Admiralty, Board of Trade, and Trinity House nominated the other five members. 
 This Board has greatly improved the river, and done much to develope its capabilities. 
 
 FROSTS AND FROST FAIRS oy THE THAMES, see pp. 360-363. 
 
 THE ISLE OF DOGS, the horse-shoe curve between Limehouse and Blackwall, is 
 described at p. 475. 
 
 THAMES- STREET, 
 
 IN Stow's time called StocTcfishmonger's Sow, extends from Puddle Dock, Blackfriars, 
 to the Tower. The line abounds with archffiological interest. 
 
 UPPER THAMES-STREET. Puddle Dock was the wharf of one Puddle, and next
 
 778 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Puddle Water, from horses watered there. Ben Jonson calls it " our Abydos." Shad- 
 well, in his comedy of Epsom Wells, 1676, has " the Countess of Puddle Dock," and 
 Hogarth, in 1732, met " the Duke of Puddle Dock," at the Dark-house, Billingsgate. 
 Upon the site of old Puddle Dock is built the City Flour Mill, by far the largest 
 flour-mill in the world, and a gigantic example of mechanical skill. It is constructed 
 entirely upon piles, and occupies rather more than an acre, or 250 feet long by 60 feet 
 wide. The mill consists of eight stories ; two steam-engines, of the consecutive power 
 of 300 horses, drive 60 pairs of enormous mill-stones, and work the Archimedean 
 screws and buckets, by which the flour is conducted through the different processes. 
 This mill has stowage for 40,000 quarters of grain ; can prepare 4000 quarters per 
 week, and requires only one-sixth of the number of hands which were employed by 
 he old system. 
 
 Castle Baynard Wharf denotes the site of Baynard's Castle, described at p. 40. 
 Nearly opposite is Adel or Addle Hill, where stood the palace of the Anglo-Saxon 
 kings, erected by Athelstan. Boss-court is so called (says Stow) from a spring- water 
 loss, or mouth, put up by the executors of Sir Richard Whittington. Prom Lambeth- 
 kill to Queenhithe have been excavated portions of the river-wall mentioned by Fitz- 
 stephen. QUEENHITHE, see p. 704. Garlick-Tiill was of old the garlick hithe. 
 
 Doiogate, or Downegate, was named from its steep descent to the river; or from 
 its being the Dowr or Water gate to Watling-street (Maitland) ; near the church of 
 St. Mary Bothaw (destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt), was the mansion of 
 Sir Francis Drake. Here is the City Terminus of the South-Eastern Eailway, de- 
 scribed under WATLING STEEET. 
 
 The Steelyard is named from its having been the place where the King's steel- 
 yard, or beam, was set Tip for weighing goods imported into London (T. Hudson 
 Turner). See a good account of the Steelyard, with historic details, by T. C. Noble, 
 in the Builder, September 5, 1863. 
 
 Coldharbour-lane denotes the site of Coldharbo-ar, a magnificent mansion, 13 
 Edward II. (Rymer's Fcedera). It was next the property of Sir John Poultney; 
 in 1397, John Holland, Duke of Exeter, entertained here Richard II.; Henry V. 
 possessed it when Prince of Wales ; Richard III., in 1485, granted it to the College 
 of Heralds ; Henry VIII. exchanged it for Durham House, Strand : it is shown in 
 ruins, in Holland's View of London after the Great Fire. The etymology of Cold- 
 harbour is a queestio vexata. Sir John Poultney received for his mansion, yearly, a 
 rose at midsummer, whence, or from the wars of York and Lancaster, the estate was 
 named " the Manor of the Rose." Upon Laurence Pountney-hill are two elaborately 
 carved doorways ; and some of the houses have stone-groined vaults. Upon Laurence 
 Pountney-hill lived Dr. William Harvey, with his brothers Daniel and Eliab, mer- 
 chants; here Harvey made his researches on the circulation of the blood. 
 
 In Suffolk-lane is MEBCHANT TAYLOBS' SCHOOL (see p. 725). 
 
 Old Swan Stairs was a Thames landing-place in the 15th century. Here were the 
 Old Wine Shades, established in 1697, beneath the terrace of the former Fish- 
 mongers' Hall; the present Shades is the house built for Lord Mayor Garratt, who 
 laid the first stone of London Bridge in 1825. 
 
 At Old Swan House, facing the river, three successive heads of the mercantile 
 concern served the offices of Sheriff and Lord Mayor ; and it is stated that no such 
 succession in the list of magistrates is to be found in the City. Here traded Mr. Richard 
 Thornton, who died June 20, 1865, leaving more than two millions and three quarters 
 of money, which he disposed of as follows : 
 
 To his nephew, Mr. Thomas Thornton, the testator left all his freehold, copyhold, and leasehold 
 property for his absolute use. To his sister, 100,0002.; to his nephew, Mr. William Thornton West, 
 300,0002. ; to two of his clerks, 20,0002. each ; to his nurse, for her faithful services and attention to him 
 in his illness, 10002. ; to each of his other domestic servants, 5002. ; to the Leathersellers' Company, 
 60002. ; to Christ's Hospital, 50002. ; and 10,0002. to Hetherington's Charity for the Blind. To 24 other 
 charities in London, 20002. each; to the schools at Merton, 10,0002.; and to the poor of Merton, 10002. 
 To the schools at Burton and Thornton, 10,0002. ; and to the poor of Merton, 5002. To Mr. K. N. Lee, 
 one of the executors, the munificent legacy of 400,0002., on condition of his obtaining a licence within 
 twelve months to take and use the surname of "Thornton." To the wife of another executor, a life 
 interest is devised in the sum of 300,0002. To the Misses Margaret and Eliza Lee, of Ventnor, Isle of 
 Wight, there is a life interest in the sum of 200,0002. There are also liberal bequests to others of the 
 testator's nephews, nieces, and other persons.
 
 THAMES TUNNEL. 
 
 At the upper end of Martin' s-lane, Cannon-street East, lias been built a Rectory- 
 Louse, with a handsome campanile, 110 feet high. 
 
 Some idea of the ancient commercial wealth of England mny be gathered from a glance at the rapid 
 increase of trade from about the middle of the 14th century. Thus, in 1363, Picard, who had been mayor 
 some years before, entertained Edward III. and the Black Prince, the Kings of France, Scotland, and 
 Cyprus, at his own house in the Vintry (Upper Thames-street), and presented them with handsome gifts. 
 Philpot, an eminent citizen in the reign of Richard II., when the trade of England was greatly annoyed 
 by privateers, hired 1000 armed men and despatched them to sea, where they took 15 Spanish vessels 
 with their prizes : Philpot-lane, in Lower Thames-street, is " so called of Sir John Philpot (one of this 
 family), " that dwelt there, and was owner thereof." Stow. 
 
 The south side of Upper Thames-street is mostly occupied by wharfs, once the site of river-side 
 palaces. In the lanes, upon the north side, are several merchants' mansions, "which, if not exactly 
 equal to the palaces of stately Venice, might at least vie with many of the hotels of old Paris. Some of 
 these, though the great majority have been broken up into chambers and counting-houses, still remain 
 intact." _B. If Israeli. 
 
 Upper Thames-street retains some old signs: as, a bas-relief of a Gardener with a spade, 1670; the 
 Doublet (upon iron, once gilt), at Crawshay's iron-wharf, No. 36 (originally the "Sir John Anvill" of 
 the Spectator, No. 299). Upon Lambeth-hill, over Crane-court, is a crane carved in stone. 
 
 Thames-street has long been noted for its cheese-factors' warehouses : " Thames- 
 street gives cheeses." (Gay's Trivial) 
 
 LOWER THAMES-STREET : Fish-street Hill ; THE MONUMENT (see pp. 570-571) 
 Here was the entrance to Crooked-lane, noted for its old fishing-tackle shops, handy 
 for the anglers at London Bridge. At Pudding-lane (from butchers scalding hog's 
 puddings there) commenced the GEEAT FIRE (see pp. 338-340). 
 
 Next is BILLINGSGATE (p. 54). COAL EXCHANGE (p. 329). 
 
 In Water-lane was the Old Trinity House, built by Wren ; and at the lower end 
 of the lane was the finely-carved door-headway of the Ship Tavern. THE CUSTOM 
 HOUSE is described at pp. 305-306. 
 
 At the east end of the street, in Stow's time, were the remains of a stone mansion, 
 said to have been the lodging of the Princes of Wales ; hence this part of the street 
 was called Petty Wales. It was also called Galley Quay, from the galleys formerly 
 lading and landing there. Tradesmen's tokens in the seventeenth century were struck 
 here, and were hence called, vulgo, " Galley-quay halfpence." 
 
 A 
 
 THAMES TUNNEL, 
 
 BRICK arched double roadway, under the Thames, between Wapping and 
 Rotherhithe, is one of the grandest achievements of engineering skill. 
 
 In 1799 an attempt was made to construct an archway under the Thames, from Gravesend to Tilbury 
 by Ralph Dodd, engineer; and in 1804 the "Thames Archway Company" commenced a similar work 
 from Rotherhithe to Limehouse, under the direction of Vasey and Trevethick, two Cornish miners; 
 and the horizontal excavation had reached 1040 feet, when the ground broke in, under the pressure of 
 high tides, and the work was abandoned ; 54 engineers declaring it to be impracticable to make a tunnel 
 under the Thames of any useful size for commercial progression. 
 
 The Thames Tunnel was planned by M. I. Brunei, in 1823 : among the earliest sub- 
 scribers to the scheme were the late Duke of Wellington and Dr. Wollaston ; and in 
 1824 the " Thames Tunnel Company " was formed to execute the work. A brickwork 
 cylinder, 50 feet in diameter, 42 feet high, and 3 feet thick, was first commenced by 
 Mr. Brunei at 150 feet from the Rotherhithe side of the river; and on March 2,1825, 
 a stone with a brass inscription-plate was laid in the brickwork. Upon this cylinder, 
 computed to weigh 1000 tons, was set a powerful steam-engine, by which the earth 
 was raised, and the water was drained from within it ; the shaft was then sunk into 
 the ground en masse, and completed to the depth of 65 feet ; and at the depth of 
 63 feet the horizontal roadway was commenced, with an excavation larger than the 
 interior of the old House of Commons. The plan of operation had been suggested to 
 Brunei, in 1814, by the bore of the sea-worm, Teredo navalis, in the keel of a ship; 
 showing how, when the perforation was made by the worm, the sides were secured, 
 and rendered impervious to water, by the insect lining the passage with a calcareous 
 secretion. With the auger-formed head of the worm in view, Brunei employed a 
 cast-iron " Shield," containing 36 frames or cells, in each of which was a miner who 
 cut down the earth ; and a bricklayer simultaneously built up from the back of the 
 cell the brick arch, which was pressed forward by strong screws. Thus were com- 
 pleted, from Jan. I, 1826, to April 27, 1827, 540 feet of the Tunnel. On May 18 thfr
 
 780 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 river burst into the works ; but tbe opening was soon filled up with bags of clay, the 
 water pumped out of the Tunnel, and the work resumed. At the length of 600 feet, 
 the river again broke in ; six men were drowned ; and the rush of the water carried 
 Mr. Brunei, jun., up the shaft. The Tunnel was again emptied; but the work was 
 now discontinued, for want of funds, for seven years. 
 
 Scores of plans were next proposed for its completion, and above 5000Z. were raised 
 by public subscription. By aid of a loan sanctioned by Parliament (mainly through 
 the influence of the Duke of Wellington), the work was resumed, and a new shield 
 constructed, March, 1836, in which year were completed 117 feet; in 1837, only 
 29 feet; in 1838, 80 feet; in 1839, 194 feet; in 1840 (two months), 76 feet; and by 
 November, 1841, the remaining 60 feet, reaching to the shaft which had been sunk at 
 Wapping. On March 24, 1843, Brunei was knighted by Queen Victoria ; on August 12 
 he passed through the Tunnel from shore to shore ; and March 25, 1843, it was opened 
 as a public thoroughfare, lighted with gas, to passengers, day and night, at one penny 
 toll; in each passage a carriage-road and footway. The opening was celebrated 
 annually by a Fair held in the Tunnel. 
 
 The Tunnel cost about 454,OOOZ. ; to complete the carriage-descents would require 
 180,000^. ; total, 634,000?. The dangers of the work were many : sometimes portions 
 of the shield broke with the noise of a cannon-shot ; then alarming cries told of some 
 irruption of earth or water ; but the excavators were much more inconvenienced by 
 fire than water ; gas explosions frequently wrapping the place in a sheet of flame, 
 strangely mingling with the water, and rendering the workmen insensible. Yet, with 
 all these perils, but seven lives were lost in making the Thames Tunnel; whereas 
 nearly forty men were killed during the building of New London Bridge. In 1833 
 Mr. Brunei submitted to William IV., at St. James's Palace, " An Exposition of the 
 Facts and Circumstances relating to the Tunnel;" and Brunei has left a minute 
 record of his great work : it is well described and illustrated in Weale's Quarterly 
 Papers on Engineering. A Visitor's Book is kept at the Tunnel, wherein are the 
 signatures of the many illustrious persons who have inspected the works. It was 
 visited by Queen Victoria, July 26, 1843. In 1838 the number of visitors was 23,000 ; 
 in 1839, 34,000. A fine medal was struck at the completion of the work : obv. head 
 of Brunei ; rev. interior and longitudinal section of the Tunnel. 
 
 Width of the Tunnel, 35 feet; height, 20 feet; each archway and footpath, clear width, about 14 
 feet; thickness of earth between the crown of the Tunnel and the bed of the river, about 15 feet. At 
 full tide, the foot of the Tunnel is 75 feet below the surface of the water. 
 
 The Tunnel has been paralleled, as an engineering triumph, by Stephenson's Tubular 
 Eailway-bridge. 
 
 THEATRES. 
 
 \ DELPHI THEATRE, No. 411, Strand, was commenced in 1802 by John Scott, a 
 *- colourman, and opened Nov. 27, 1806, as the Sans Pareil, with musical enter- 
 tainments, and next year with dramas. In 1820-1 Scott sold the theatre to Rodwell 
 and Jones, who named it the Adelphi ; in 1825 it was sold to Terry and Yates ; and 
 after Terry's secession, Yates was joined by Charles Mathews the elder, who gave here 
 his later " At Homes." The compo front of the theatre was designed by Beazley, 
 in 1840. Yates was succeeded by Webster, with Madame Celeste as directress. One 
 of its chief attractions was the comic humour of John Reeve. The theatre was rebuilt 
 in 1858 upon an enlarged plan, by Wyafct (from the Opera Comique in Paris) for Mr. 
 Webster ; style, Italian ; decoration, French Renaissance ; illuminated by a sunlight. 
 
 ASTLEY'S AMPHITHEATRE, Bridge-road, Lambeth, is the fourth theatre erected upon 
 this site. The first was one of the 19 theatres built by Philip Astley, and was opened 
 in 1773, burnt in 1794; rebuilt 1795, burnt 1803; rebuilt 1804, burnt June 8, 1841, 
 within two hours, from the house being principally constructed with old ship-timber. 
 It was rebuilt, and opened April 17, 1843, and has since been enlarged. The theatre 
 was built for equestrianism ; and the stud of trained horses usually numbered from 
 50 to 60. It has since been cleverly remodelled by Mr. Boucicault, for performances 
 of the regular drama.
 
 THEATRES. 781 
 
 Philip Astley, originally a cavalry soldier, commenced horsemanship in 1763, in an open field at 
 Lambeth : he built his first theatre partly with 601., the produce of an unowned diamond ring which he 
 found on Westminster Bridge. Andrew Ducrow, subsequently proprietor of the Amphitheatre, was born at 
 the "Nag's Head," Borough, in 1793, when his father, Peter Ducrow, a native of Bruges, was "the Flemish 
 Hercules" at Astley's. The fire in 1841 arose from ignited wadding, such as caused the destruction of 
 the old Globe Theatre in 1613, and Coveut Garden Theatre in 1808. Andrew Ducrow died Jan. 26, 1842, 
 of mental derangement and paralysis, produced by the catastrophe of the burning of his theatre and 
 several favourite horses. 
 
 BANKSIDE THEATBES. The earliest was the Circus built for bull-baiting and bear- 
 baiting, about 1520, in Paris Garden. In this theatre, plays were also performed 
 temp. James I., when Henslowe and Alleyn were lessees. Nash, in his Strange 
 Neives, 1590, mentions the performance of puppets there ; and Dekker asserts that 
 Ben Jonson had acted there (Satiromastix). Aggas's Map, drawn about 1560, shows 
 two cirri lower down on " the Bank ;" but still lower were the Globe, the Hope, and 
 the Rose. The Globe was built by agreement, dated Dec. 22, 1593, for Richard 
 Burbage, the famous actor. In 1603 James I. granted a licence to Shakspeare and 
 others to act " at their now usuall house, called the Globe." It was of wood, hexa- 
 gonal in exterior form, and was occupied by Shakspeare as a summer theatre. At 
 Dulwich College, in a paper, occurs " Mr. Shaksper," in a list of " Inhabitants of 
 Sowtherk, Jully, 1596 " he was assessed in the liberty of the Clink in 1609, though 
 his occupation as an actor at the Globe did not continue after 1604:* his brother, 
 Edmond Shakspeare, was buried in St. Saviour's church, 1607. The Globe was de- 
 stroyed by fire June 29, 1613, when Ben Jonson was present ; it was rebuilt in 1614, but 
 is not mentioned after 1648 : it was built on the site of Globe-alley, which led from 
 Maid-lane to " the Bank," and is now included in the premises of Barclay and Perkins's 
 Brewery (see the Map in Strype's Stow, 1720). The Hope, used both for bear-baiting 
 and as a playhouse, was situated near the Rose : in 1614 Ben Jonson's Bartholomew 
 Fair was first acted here ; later it was used for prize-fighting, and in 1632 again for 
 bear-baiting. The Hose, probably the oldest theatre upon Bankside, except Paris 
 Garden (Collier), was built long before 1597: it was held for some years by Philip 
 Henslowe, afterwards Alleyn's partner j it occupied the site of Rose-alley, west of 
 Globe-alley (see Strype's Map). The Swan was in repute anterior to 1598. Both the 
 Rose and Swan, after 1620, were only occupied occasionally by gladiators and fencers ; 
 and about 1648 all theatres were suppressed. (See the Antwerp View of London.) 
 
 BLACKFEIAES THEATKE was built in 1575, upon part of the site of the monastery 
 of Blackfriars, between Apothecaries' Hall and Printing-house-square, and upon Play- 
 house-yard. The first proprietors were James Burbage and his fellows, who, with 
 other players, had been ejected from the City by an act of Common Council : it was a 
 winter theatre, arranged like an inn-yard (the earliest theatre), but with a roof over 
 it. Shakspeare was a sharer in the Blackfriars playhouse in 1589 ; it was rebuilt in 
 1596 ; and was leased by Edward Alleyn in 1618 (see his Diary, at Dulwich College). 
 It was taken down in 1655 (Collier's Life of ShaJcspeare), and dwelling-houses were 
 built upon the ground (see BLACKFBIAES, p. 56.) 
 
 BRITANNIA THEATEE, High-street, Hoxton, was commenced building soon after the 
 destruction by fire, of the Rosemary Branch Equestrian Theatre, Islington Fields, 
 July 27, 1853y when seven horses and eleven dogs were burnt. The Britannia (Finch 
 and Paraire, architects), is provided with promenades and refreshment saloons. The 
 auditory is very spacious, and elegantly decorated. The pit is nearly 80 feet wide and 
 60 feet deep. The stage is 76 feet wide by 50 feet deep ; opening at proscenium 
 34 feet wide by 37 feet high. The house is effectively ventilated by openings left 
 in ornamental portions of the ceiling, in immediate communication with the internal 
 area of the roof, and thence with the open air, by means of louvres extending from 
 one extremity of the building to the other. The provisions against tire are well 
 planned, and the extent of the theatre is considerable. 
 
 BETJNSWICK THEATEE was built upon the site of the Royalty Theatre, within 
 seven months, by Stedman Whitwell, C.E. The fagade resembled that of San Carlos 
 
 * The Globe Theatre stood upon a spot of ground now occupied by four houses contiguous to the 
 present Globe-alley, Maid-lane. (Mirror, March 31, 1832). We remember a large tavern, the Globe, in 
 . Chaingate, destroyed by tire about 1812. Pennant was told that the door of the Globe Theatre was very 
 lately (1790) standing. See Knight's Stratford Shakspeare, vol. i. 1854.
 
 782 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 at Naples. It was opened Feb. 25, 1828 ; but within three nights, on Feb. 28, during 
 a day rehearsal, the whole theatre fell to the ground, and killed ten persons, among 
 whom was a proprietor, D. S. Maurice, the tasteful printer, of Fenchurch-street. 
 The catastrophe was caused by the unsafe iron roof and the great weights attached 
 to it : the fall of the theatre was well described at the time by one of the company. 
 
 CITY OF LONDON THEATEE, 36, Norton Folgate, was built 1837, for Mrs. Honey, 
 the pretty actress, and first called the Norton Folgate-street Theatre. 
 
 CITY THEATEE, Milton-street (Grub-street), was opened about 1830, with operatic 
 performances. " A new theatre has here arisen, where boards have been graced with a 
 Tree and an Ayton ; and within these few months, its boxes have been graced with 
 the presence of my Lords Brougham and Grey." (Mirror, Nov. 19, 1831.) The 
 theatrical concern did not succeed, and the premises next became a chapel. 
 
 COCKPIT or PHOENIX THEATEE (from its sign), Drury-lane, occupied the site of 
 Cockpit-alley, now Pitt-place, opposite the Castle Tavern, St. Giles's-in-the-Fields. It 
 was altered from a cockpit, and when a theatre it was twice nearly destroyed by the 
 London apprentices; and was pulled down in 1649 by soldiers, instigated by sectarian 
 bigots. At the Restoration, Rhodes, a bookseller, rebuilt the theatre, but soon vacated 
 it ; and Sir W. Davenant, with Betterton and Kynaston in his company, performed 
 here till 1662, when they removed to Portugal-row (see p. 687). At the Cockpit was 
 performed the first play in print, The Wedding, by Shirley, printed in 1629, and ex- 
 pressly said to have been acted at Drury-lane. 
 
 COTENT GARDEN THEATEE, Bow-street, is the third theatre built here. The first 
 theatre was built upon part of the Convent site, by Shepherd, architect of Goodman's 
 Fields Theatre. Covent Garden was opened Dec. 7, 1732, by Rich, the celebrated 
 harlequin ; and Hogarth's caricature of " Rich's Glory, on his Triumphant Entry into 
 Covent Garden," refers to his removal here : it shows one entrance, a magnificent Ionic 
 archway, at the end of the eastern arcade of the Piazza. Here the Beefsteak Society 
 was formed in 1735, by Rich, and Lambert the scene-painter. In 1746 Garrick played 
 here for the season. In 1803 John Kemble became a proprietor and stage-manager. 
 On Sept. 20, 1808, the theatre was burned to the ground, and twenty persons killed 
 in the ruins. It was rebuilt by R. Smirke, R.A. The first stone was laid by the 
 Prince of Wales, Dec. 31, 1808; and the theatre was opened Sept. 18, 1809, when 
 the " new prices " caused the O. P. (old prices) riot of seventy-seven nights, since 
 which " a London audience has been found more captious than they previously had 
 been" (C. Dibdin). In 1817 John Kemble here took leave of the public; and in 
 1840 retired his brother, Charles Kemble. The theatre was subsequently leased to 
 Mr. C. Mathews and Madame Vestris, and Mr. Macready. In 1843-45 it was let to 
 the Anti-Corn-Law League, who held a bazaar here in 1845 (see p. 42). In 1847 
 the auditory was entirely reconstructed, at a cost of 40,0002., by Albano, and opened 
 as an Italian Opera House April 6. The exterior retained Smirke's Grecian-Doric por- 
 tico, copied from the Templs of Minerva at Athens ; statues of Tragedy and Comedy ; 
 and two panels of bas-relief figures, by Flaxman. 
 
 The northern panel has figures of .SSschylus, Aristophanes, and Mseander; Thalia, Polyhymnia, 
 Euterpe, and Clio j Minerva and Bacchus; Melpomene, two Furies, and Apollo. In the southern panel 
 are figures of Shakspeare summoning Caliban, Ferdinand, Miranda, Prospero, and Ariel ; Hecate and 
 Lady Macbeth. Also Milton, with Urania and Samson Agonistes, an incident from Comus, &c. 
 
 This theatre was destroyed by fire, March 5, 1856, at the close of a masked ball. 
 The ruins lay uncleared for nearly fifteen months. The facade was saved, and 
 Flaxman's statues and bas-reliefs were adapted in the design for a new theatre, by 
 E. M. Barry, which was opened as an Italian Opera House, in 1858. It is externally 
 nearly 100 feet high by 120 feet broad, and 240 feet long, has a grand Corinthian 
 portico, facing Bow-street, about one-fifth larger than the late theatre, and the same 
 size as the celebrated La Scala of Milan, hitherto the largest theatre in the world. 
 The interior decorations are white and gold, and pale azure. Adjoining the theatre is 
 the Floral Hall, of " Crystal Palace" design. (See ROYAL ITALIAN OPERA, p. 789.) 
 
 First Appearances. Inclcdon, the singer, 1790; Charles Kemble, 1794; Mrs. Glover, 1797; G. F. 
 Cooke (Richard III.), Oct. 31, 1800; Miss Stephens (Countess of Essex), 1812; Miss O'Neill (Lady 
 ISeecher), 1814; Macready, 1816; W. Farren, 1818; Fanny Kemble, 1829 ; Adelaide Kemble, 1841. Here 
 Edmund Kuan last acted, 1833.
 
 THEATRES. 783 
 
 CURTAIL THEATEE (THE), Holywell, is mentioned in 1577. Stow, speaking of the 
 priory of St. John Baptist, says : " Near thereunto are builded two publique houses 
 for the acting and sliowe of comedies, tragedies, and histories for recreation; whereof 
 the one is called The Courtein, the other The Theatre, both standing on the south- 
 west side, towards the field " (Stow, 1st edit. 1599). Both theatres are mentioned in 
 North brook's Treatise against Diceing, Dancing, Vain Plays or Interludes, 1577 ; by 
 Stubbes in his Anatomic of Abuses, 1583 ; in a black-letter ballad, in the Pepysian 
 collection, occurs " the Curtain at Holywell ;" and in an epigram by Heath, 1610. 
 Sir H. Herbert's office-book shows that in 1622 the Curtain was occupied by the 
 servants of Prince Charles. Aubrey (1678) describes it as "a kind of nursery or 
 obscure playhouse, called the Greene Curtain, situate in the suburbs towards Shore- 
 ditch." After it was abandoned as a playhouse, prize-fighters exhibited here. Sir 
 Henry Ellis (Hist. Shoreditch, 1798) quotes from the parish books several entries of 
 the marriage, burial, &c., of players. Maitland (Hist. London, 1772) mentions some 
 remains of the Curtain standing at or near his time. It is said to have occupied the 
 site of the curtain close of the priory, and is conjectured to have been named from its 
 being the first theatre to adopt that necessary appendage of the stage, the curtain. 
 The name survives in Curtain-road. 
 
 DETTRY-LANE THEATEE, between Drury-lane and Brydges-street, forms the east 
 side of Little Russell-street. The first theatre here was built precisely upon this site 
 for Thomas Killigrew, and opened April 8, 1663; the company being called "the 
 King's Servants," as Davenant's were " the Duke's Servants," both under patents 
 granted by Charles II. in 1660. Drury-lane, " the King's Theatre," had the chief 
 entrance in Little Russell-street. Pepys's Diary records many of his visits to " the 
 King's House," and other London theatres, from 1660-1670. " The King's House " 
 was burnt down Jan. 1671-72. It was rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren, and opened 
 March 26, 1674, with a prologue and epilogue by Dryden. Mr. Collier has printed in 
 the Shakspeare Society's Papers, vol. iv. p. 147, an indenture showing Dryden to 
 have been joined with Killigrew, Hart, Mohun, and others, in the speculation of this 
 " new playhouse." In 1682 the King's and Duke's companies played here together. 
 Rich, Steele, Dogget, Wilks, Gibber, and Booth were successively patentees; and 
 Garrick in 1747, when he opened the theatre, Sept. 15, with the well-known prologue 
 written by Dr. Johnson, and commenced the revival of Shakspeare's plays. On 
 June 10, 1776, Garrick here took leave of the stage. Sheridan then became part- 
 proprietor; and, in 1788, John Kemble manager. In 1791 the old theatre was taken 
 down, rebuilt by Holland, and the new theatre opened March 12, 1794. 
 
 It was called by Mrs. Siddons " The Wilderness." The opening for the curtain was 43 feet wide and 
 38 feet high, or nearly seven times the height of the performers. There were seats for 3600 persons ; but 
 upwards of 5000 persons are known to have been squeezed into this theatre. 
 
 It was burnt down Feb. 24, 1809. The present house, built by B. Wyatt, from 
 the plan of the great Bordeaux theatre, was opened Oct. 12, 1812, with a prologue by 
 Lord Byron. In 1818 the theatre was let, at 10,200. per annum, to Elliston, for 
 whom Beazley reduced the auditory, added the Doric portico in Brydges-street, and 
 the cast-iron colonnade in Little Russell-street in 1831. In the hall is a cast of 
 Scheemakers's statue of Shakspeare, and a statue of Edmund Kean by S. Joseph. The 
 staircases and rotunda are magnificent, and the interior circular roof of the auditory is 
 geometrically fine. 
 
 First Appearances. Nell Gwynne, at "the King's House," 1666 ; Barton Booth, 1701 ; Mrs. Siddons, 
 1775; John P. Kemble, 1783; Harriet Mellon (Duchess of St. Albans), 1795; Edmund Kean, 1814. Here 
 Macready took leave of the stage, Feb. 26, 1851. 
 
 The first Drury-lane Theatre was sometimes called Covent Garden Theatre; and the late Mr. 
 Richardson, the Coffee-house keeper, possessed a ticket inscribed, "For the Music at the Playhouse in 
 Covent Garden, Tuesday, March 6, 1704." /. T. Smith. 
 
 DOESET-GARDENS THEATEE was built at the extremity of Salisbury-court, Fleet- 
 street, and had a handsome front and flight of stairs to the Thames. It was opened in 
 1671, under the management of Lady Davenant. Dryden, in his prologue to Marriage 
 a-la-Mode, 1672, leaves contemptuously to the citizens " the gay shows and gaudy 
 scenes" of Dorset-gardens. Here Shadwell's operatic version of Shakspeare's Tempest 
 was produced with great splendour in 1673. After 1697 the theatre was let to 
 wrestlers and fencers, but was taken down about 1720, and the site is now occupied by
 
 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the City Gas-works. The theatre was designed by Wren, and the sculpture by 
 Gibbons', included figures of Comedy and Tragedy surmounting the balustrade. 
 
 DUKE'S THEATRE, "the Opera," Lincoln's-inn-fields. (See PoRTtrGAi-STEEET,p.6S7.) 
 Here, May 10, 1735, Macklin killed his brother-actor Hallam, by accident, in a quarrel. 
 
 EFFINGHAM THEATRE (modern), in the rear of the Earl of Ejfingham Tavern, 235, 
 Whitechapel-road, was, in part, taken down in 1867, and rebuilt to hold 4000 persons. 
 
 FORTUNE THEATRE named from its sign, 
 
 " The picture of Dame Fortune 
 Before the Fortune playhouse" (Heywood) 
 
 was built for Philip Henslowe and William Alleyn, in 1599-1600, on the east side of 
 Golding-lane, without Cripplegate. It cost 1320Z., and was opened May, 1601. It 
 was a square timber and lath-and-plaster building, and was burnt Dec. 9, 1621 
 (Alleyn's Diary) ; but was rebuilt on a circular plan, of brick, and tiled. The interior 
 was burnt in 1649 Prynne says by accident, but it was fired by sectarians. In the 
 Mercurius Politicks, Feb. 14-21, 1661, the building, with the ground belonging, were 
 advertised " to be lett to be built upon ;" and it is described as standing between 
 " Whitecross-street and Golen-lane," the avenue now Playhouse-yard. 
 
 GARRICK THEATRE, Leman-street, Goodman's Fields, was built in 1830, and named 
 from its proximity to the scene of Garrick's early fame. The theatre was burnt down 
 November 4, 1846, when it belonged to Messrs. Conquest and Gomersall, the latter 
 remembered for his impersonation of Napoleon Bonaparte. The theatre has been rebuilt. 
 
 GIBBON'S-COFRT THEATRE, Clare Market. (See p. 558.) 
 
 GOODMAN'S FIELDS THEATRE was first opened as a silk-throwster's shop, in 1729, 
 by Thomas Odell, and was rebuilt by Henry Giffard ; both of whom were, however, 
 compelled to close the theatre by the puritanical clamour raised against it. Giff ; ird 
 returned to Goodman's Fields in 1737 ; and here, Oct. 19, 1741, David Garrick first 
 appeared in London as Kichard III. He drew an audience of the nobility and gentry, 
 whose carriages filled the whole space from Temple Bar to Whitechapcl. Gray, in a 
 letter to Chute, writing respecting these performances, says, " Did I tell you about 
 Mr. Garrick, that the town are horn mad after ? There are a dozen dukes of a night 
 in Goodman's Fields sometimes." The theatre was taken down about 1746. Garrick's 
 first appearance here arose from the proprietor being also manager of the Ipswich 
 company, in which Garrick first appeared on the stage. 
 
 GRECIAN THEATRE, adjoining the garden of the Eagle Tavern, City-road, was 
 built by Thomas Rouse for regular dramatic entertainments. The establishment has 
 been enlarged and improved by Mr. Conquest, the present proprietor : it has a spacious 
 ball-room, elegantly decorated, open without extra charge ; and the garden is illumi- 
 nated in the Vauxhall taste, with the advantages of gas-lighting, open-air orchestra, 
 lights among the shrubs, &c. 
 
 HAY.MARKET THEATRE, the " Little Theatre," was originally built by one Potter, 
 and opened Dec. 29, 1720, by "the French comedians:" it was first called "the New- 
 French Theatre." In 1723 it was occupied by English actors ; 1726, Italian operas, 
 rope-dancing, and tumblers, by subscription ; in 1727 the Beggar's Opera was pro- 
 duced here ; 1731, gladiators and backswordsmen ; 1732, English opera upon the 
 Italian model ; 1734-5, Fielding opened the theatre with " the Great Mogul's Com- 
 pany of Comedians," for whom he wrote his Pasquin, the satire of which upon the 
 Walpole administration gave rise to the Licensing Act (10th of Geo. II. cap. 28). In 
 1738 a French company reopened the theatre, but were driven from the stage the first 
 night. In 1741, English operas were played here ; 1744, Samuel Foote first appeared 
 here as Othello; 1747, Foote became manager, and continued so for thirty years, 
 commencing with his own Entertainments. Jan. 16, 1748-9, the Bottle Conjuror 
 hoax and riot. 1762, the Haymarket was established as a regular summer theatre. 
 1777, it became a Theatre Royal, when Foote sold his interest to George Colmau for 
 a life annuity of WOOL, and Foote died in the following October. In the green-room 
 is a gilt clock, which belonged to Foote. Colman died in 1795, and was succeeded by 
 his son, George Colman the younger, licenser of plays. Feb. 3, 1794, sixteen persons
 
 THEATRES. 785 
 
 V 
 
 were trodden to death, or suffocated, in attempting to gain admission on a royal visit. 
 The " Little Theatre " was taken down in 1820 ; the present theatre was built, at a 
 few feet distant, with a lofty Corinthian portico, by Nash, and opened July 14j 1821 : 
 here was produced Paul Pry, with Listen, in 1825. In 1853, Mr. B. WeBster "con- 
 cluded here a lesseeship of 16 years ; the theatre was then let to Mr. Buckstone, who 
 has rendered the Haymarket famous for its excellent performance of the legitimate 
 drama ; and this while one of our great national theatres was devoted to Italian opera. 
 
 Pint Appearances. Henderson, Bannister, Mathews, Elliston, Listen, and Young; Miss Fenton 
 (Duchess of Boltou), Miss Farren (Countess of Derby) ; Edmund Kean, in "little business," 1806; Miss 
 Patou (Lady W. Lennox). Here Macready gave his final performances. 
 
 HOLBORN AMPHITHEATRE occupies the site of the Metropolitan Horse Bazaar, 
 opposite the Inns of Court Hotel. Its length is 130 feet, width 68 feet from box to 
 box. The private boxes form a semicircle in front of the house, a row of stalls, called 
 the "Grand Balcony," being ranged immediately before them on the same tier. 
 Above them is a gallery called the Amphitheatre. The performances are chiefly 
 equestrian, and the ring is surrounded by pit-stalls. 
 
 HOLBOEN THEATRE, built 1866, nearly upon the site of Warwick House. (See p. 431.) 
 
 ST. JAMES'S THEATRE, King-street, St. James's, was designed by Beazley, for John 
 Braham, the singer, and cost 50,000^., independently of the site, which cost 8000?. 
 The fa9ade is Roman, of the Middle Ages ; and the interior, by Grace, originally re- 
 sembled the theatre of the Palace of Versailles. The St. James's Theatre was opened 
 in 1835 ; and next year was produced here an operatic burletta written by Charles 
 Dickens, the music by John Hullah. Here French plays are occasionally performed. 
 
 LYCEUM THEATRE, Wellington-street, Strand, was originally built by James 
 Payne, architect, in 1765, as an academy (or lyceuni) for a society of artists ; of whom, 
 on the re-establishment of the Royal Academy, Garrick ' bought the lease of the pre- 
 mises, to prevent their becoming a theatre. They were next purchased by Mr. Ling- 
 ham, a breeches maker, in the Strand, and opened about 1790 for musical perform- 
 ances j in 1794 or 1795 Lingham leased the adjoining ground to Dr. Arnold, who built 
 here a theatre, the licence for which was suppressed, and it was let for music, dancing, 
 and horsemanship, exhibition of paintings, &c. : a foreigner gained a large fortune by 
 showing here the first phantasmagoria seen in England; and here, in 1803-4, Winsor 
 exhibited his experimental gas-lighting. In 1809, the theatre was enlarged by Mr. S. 
 A. Arnold, and opened as the English Opera-house : it was rebuilt, in 1816, by 
 Beazley ; was destroyed by fire, Feb. 16, 1830 ; and again rebuilt by Beazley somewhat 
 further west, the site of the former theatre being included in Wellington-street, then 
 formed from the Strand northward. The new theatre cost 35,0001. ; it has an 
 elegant Corinthian portico : it was opened with English opera, July 14, 1834 ; and 
 was re-decorated in rich Italian taste, for Madame Vestris, in 1847. Here were given 
 the best performances of the Keeleys; and the admirable Shakesperean and melo- 
 dramatic impersonations of Mr. Charles Fechter. 
 
 MARIONETTE THEATRE, Adelaide-street, Strand, was originally the Adelaide Gallery, 
 and was altered for the clever performances of Marionettes, or puppets, in 1852. 
 
 MARYLEBONE THEATRE, Church-street, Paddington, was built and opened in 1842, 
 as " a penny theatre :" it was enlarged in 1854, to hold 1200 persons. 
 
 MILTON-STREET THEATRE, see GRUB-STREET, p. 782. 
 
 NEWINGTON BUTTS : here was a theatre built before the Globe at Bankside : it is 
 mentioned in the Diary of Philip Henslowe, which shows that from June, 1594, the 
 performances were jointly by the Lord Admiral's men and the Lord Chamberlain's 
 men : here were acted Titus Andronicus, Hamlet, and the Taming of a Shrew. 
 
 NURSERY (the), in Golding-lane, was built by a patent of Charles II. as a school for 
 the education of children for the stage : 
 
 "Near these a Nursery erects its head, 
 Where queens are formed, and future heroes bred, 
 Where unfledged actors learn to laugh and cry, 
 Where infant punks their tender voices try, 
 And little Maximins the gods defy." Dryden's Mac FlecJcnoe. 
 
 3 B
 
 786 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Bayes, in the Rehearsal, speaks of " the service of the Nursery ;" and Pepys first went 
 there 24th Feh. 1667-8. The house, with the royal arms and a figure of Charity, in 
 plaster, on the front, existed to our time, and has heen erroneously described as the 
 Fortune Theatre. There was a similar Nursery in Hatton-garden, at which Joe 
 Haynes, the dancer, performed. 
 
 OLYMPIC THEATEE, Wych-street, was originally erected by Philip Astley, upon 
 the site of old Craven House, and was opened with horsemanship, Sept. 18, 1806; it 
 was principally built with the timbers oi'Z/a Ville de Paris, the ship in which William IV. 
 served as midshipman; these materials were given to Astley, with a chandelier, by 
 George III. The theatre was leased in 1813 to Elliston, who removed thence to 
 Drury-lane ; and subsequently to Madame Vestris, before she became lessee of Covent- 
 garden ; both which changes were ruinous. The Olympic Theatre was destroyed by 
 fire, within an hour, March 29, 1849 : it was rebuilt the same year, and opened 
 Dec. 26. Here William Farren was sometime lessee. 
 
 First and last at the Olympic Theatre have appeared Elliston and Mrs. Edwin ; Oxberry and Power; 
 Keeley and Fitzwilliam ; Charles Kean and Ellen Tree ; Madame Vestris, Mrs. Nesbitt (Lady Boothby), 
 Mrs. Keeley, and William Farren ; Charles Mathews first appeared here ; and Miss Foote (Countess of 
 Harrington), Mrs. Orger, and Listen, last played here. In Craven-buildings, adjoining the theatre, 
 have resided "three favourite actresses, from the time of Dryden to our own Mrs. Bracegirdle, Mrs. 
 Pritchard, and Madame Vestris." 
 
 PANTHEON THEATEE, Oxford-street (see p. 639). 
 
 PAVILION THEATEE, Whitechapel, one of the largest theatres in the metropolis, 
 covers nearly an acre of ground : it is nearly 60 feet high, yet has but two tiers of 
 boxes and one gallery ; depth and width, nearly 50 feet each ; decorations, dead-white, 
 gold, and crimson. 
 
 PEINCESS'S THEATEE, Oxford- street, originally built as the Queen's Bazaar (see 
 p. 41), was designed by Nelson, and opened Sept. 30, 1841, with promenade concerts. 
 It cost 47,OOOZ. j but the unique character of its Renaissance decoration, by Grace, has 
 been spoiled : originally it consisted entirely of four tiers of boxes. This theatre, under the 
 management of Mr. Charles Kean, became famous for his reproduction of Shakspeare's 
 historic plays, excellently acted, with scenic accessories hitherto unprecedented. 
 For these efforts to improve the tone, and elevate the character of our stage, Mr. Charles 
 Kean was, in 1862, presented with a costly service of plate, by public subscription. 
 
 QUEEN'S THEATEE (now the PEINCE OF WALES'S) Tottenham-street, Tottenham- 
 court-road, was originally Francis Pasquali's Concert-room, enlarged for the Concerts 
 of Ancient Music by Novosielski, who built here a superb box for George III. and 
 Queen Charlotte (Dr. Rimbault, Notes and Queries, No. 10). In 1802 Colonel 
 Greville fitted it up for the performances of the " Pic-nic Society," a body of distin- 
 guished amateurs, whose celebrity rendered them objects of alarm to the professional 
 actors of the day, and exposed them to the attacks of the caricaturist Gilray. In 1808 
 it was an equestrian establishment under the management of Saunders. Two years 
 afterwards it was opened as a theatre, but Mr. Paul, the first manager, proved unsuc- 
 cessful. About 1821, it passed into the hands of Mr. Brunton, whose daughter, after- 
 wards so justly celebrated as Mrs. Yates, was one of its chief attractions. In the first 
 bill issued by Mr. Paul, the first theatrical lessee, it is simply called the " New Theatre, 
 King's Ancient Concert Rooms, Tottenham-street." Afterwards it became the Regency, 
 the Theatre of Variety, and the West London ; and on the accession of William IV. 
 was designated the Queen's, in compliment to Queen Adelaide. An attempt to render 
 the theatre a sort of English opera-house was made in 1831 by Mr. Macfarren (father 
 of the popular composer), and in 1833 it acquired a temporary brilliancy under the 
 new name of the Fitzroy. Here the burlesques, chiefly written by Mr. Gilbert a 
 Beckett, gained considerable fame in their day ; and still more celebrated were Mr. H. 
 Mayhew's Wandering Minstrel, and his local drama of the Field of Forty Footsteps. 
 Here French plays were first performed after the Peace of 1815. Frederick Lemaitre 
 appeared ; Mademoiselle George played in Voltaire's tragedy Merope ; and M. Laporte, 
 afterwards manager of Covent-garden and Her Majesty's Theatres, was a principal 
 comedian. In 1835 it was reopened by Mrs. Nesbitt, who formed a really powerful 
 company, comprising the most noted comic performers of the time, and revived the 
 name of the " Queen's." It received its present designation under the management
 
 THEATRES. 787 
 
 of Miss Marie Wilton. Here Young, the tragedian, first appeared on the stage, in 
 1807, at a private performance. 
 
 QUEEN'S THEATEE, formerly St. Martin's Hall, Long Acre, opened 1867. 
 
 KEB BULL THEATRE (the), upon the site of Red Bull-yard, St. John-street, Clerken- 
 well, was originally an inn-yard, but rebuilt about 1633 : here the King's Company, 
 tinder Killigrew, acted until Drury-lane was ready for them. During the Interregnum, 
 "Drolls" were performed here, and afterwards published by Kirkman, one of the 
 players, with a frontispiece of the interior of the theatre. (See CLEBKENWELL, p. 236.) 
 There is a well-compiled account of the Red Bull Theatre in Pinks's History of 
 Clerkenwell, pp. 190-196. 
 
 Sir William Davenant, to whom Charles I. granted a patent in 1639, continued recreation and music, 
 after the manner of the ancients, at Rutland House, Bridgewater-square, and subsequently at the Cock- 
 pit, till the Restoration, when the few players who had not fallen in the wars or died of poverty assembled 
 under Davenant at the Red Bull : the actors' clothes were " very poore, and the actors but common 
 fellows." Pepys, 1661. 
 
 ROYALTY THEATEE, Well-street, Wellclose-square (named from Goodman's Field 
 Wells, 1735), was built by subscription, and opened in 1787, when John Brahain first 
 appeared on the stage, as Cupid, and John Palmer was manager ; Lee Lewis, Bates, 
 Holland, and Mrs. Gibbs, were also of the company. It was purchased about 1820 by 
 Mr. Peter Moore, M.P. ; was burnt down April 11, 1826 ; and upon the site was 
 erected the Brunswick Theatre, noticed at p. 781. 
 
 SADLER'S WELLS, the oldest theatre in London, is on the S.W. side of Islington, 
 and named in part from a mineral spring, which was superstitiously dispensed by the 
 monks of the Priory of St. John of Jerusalem, probably from the time of Henry I. 
 or Stephen. In the reign of Charles II., one Sadler built here a music-house, and in 
 1683 re-discovered in the garden the well of " excellent steel waters," which in 1684 
 was visited and drunk by hundreds of persons every morning. Evelyn, on June 11, 
 1686, went to " the New Spa Well, near Myddelton's receptacle of water at the New 
 River." The entertainments were rope-dancing, tumbling, and gluttonous feats. The 
 well, ceasing to attract, was covered over ; and in 1764 the old music-house (engraved 
 in the Mirror, No. 971) was taken down, and the present theatre built by Rosoman. 
 King (of Drury-lane) was long a partner and stage-manager j and Charles Dibdin and 
 his sons, Thomas and Charles, were proprietors. Grimaldi, father, son, and grandson, 
 were famous clowns at this theatre ; and Belzoni was a posture-master here before he 
 travelled to the East. In 1804 the New River water was introduced in a tank under 
 the stage, where also is a mineral well ; but the old well is between the stage-door and 
 the New River. Wine was sold and drunk on the premises until 1807 : under the old 
 regulation, " for an additional sixpence, every spectator was allowed a pint of either 
 port, Lisbon, mountain, or punch." But the more honourable distinction of Sadler's 
 Wells Theatre is its admirable representations of Elizabethan plays, under the manage- 
 ment of Mr. Phelps, who has been efficiently succeeded by Miss Marriott. 
 
 SALISBURY-COURT THEATEE (see p. 349). 
 
 SANS SOTJCI THEATEE, Strand, was built by Dibdin, the song-writer, in the rear of 
 his music-shop, and opened Feb. 16, 1793. Dibdin planned, painted, and decorated 
 this theatre ; wrote the recitations and songs, composed the music, and sang and ac- 
 companied them on an organized pianoforte of his own invention. He built another 
 Sans Souci theatre in Leicester-place. 
 
 SOHO THEATEE, now the NEW ROYALTY, was built for Frances Kelly, in 1840, as a 
 school for acting, in the rear of No. 73, Dean-street. It will hold 600 persons. 
 
 STANKAED THEATEE, Shoreditch, occupies the site of the former theatre, burnt 
 Oct. 28, 1866, and is larger than any one in London, excepting the Italian Opera- 
 house, Covent Garden. The main building is 149 feet long and 90 wide. The ex- 
 treme height of the auditorium part is 84 feet, and that of the stage 94 feet, to 
 give room for drawing up the scenery, which will not any of it be used from the 
 sides. The stage from the footlights to the back is 61 feet, and the widest part of the 
 horseshoe is 56 feet. All the passages and staircases are of stone, with iron rails. 
 The outlets are numerous, and the auditorium is lighted by five sun burners above a 
 ground-glass ceiling painted in oil. 
 
 3 E 2
 
 788 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 STRAND THEATBE,No.l69, Strand, originally Barker's Panorama, was altered in 1831 
 for Rayner, the low comedian, and Mrs. Waylett, the singer. Here were produced 
 Douglas Jerrold's early plays. The theatre has since become famous for its burlesques. 
 
 SURREY THEATBE, St. George's-fields, was first built by Charles Hughes and 
 Charles Dibdin, the song-writer, and was opened Nov. 4, 1782, as the Royal Circus, 
 for equestrianism. John Palmer was acting manager in 1790, when he was living 
 within the Rules of the King's Bench .(See p. 702.) The theatre was destroyed by 
 fire Aug. 12, 1805, but was rebuilt in 1806 by Cabanel, in Black friars-road. Among 
 its lessees were Elliston and Thomas Dibdin. Here Buckstone first appeared. This 
 theatre was destroyed by fire, Jan. 30, 1865, but was rebuilt upon an enlarged plan, 
 and opened within eleven months. 
 
 " THE THEATRE" was built, in 1576, on the site of the Priory of St. John Baptist, 
 at Holy well, Shoreditch j and is conjectured by Malone to have been " the first build- 
 ing erected in or near the metropolis purposely for scenic exhibitions :" it is noticed 
 in John Stockwood's sermon at Paul's Cross, in 1578, as "the gorgeous playing- 
 place erected in the fields." It was a wooden building; and in the Star-Chamber 
 records is proof that, in 1598, " the Theatre" was taken down, and the wood removed 
 to Bankside for rebuilding or enlarging the Globe Theatre. 
 
 VICTORIA THEATRE, New Cut, Lambeth, was originally named "the Cobourg," 
 from the first stone having been laid by proxy for Prince Leopold of Saxe-Cobourg, 
 Oct. 15, 1817 : it has in its foundation part of the stone of the old Savoy Palace. 
 The theatre was designed by Cabanel, a carpenter from Liege, who also constructed 
 the stage of old Drury-lane Theatre, and invented a roof known by his name. 
 The Cobourg Theatre was first opened May 13, 1818 : for its repertoire, Clarkson 
 Stanfield, subsequently R.A., painted scenery ; and here was constructed a looking-glass 
 curtain, of large plates of glass, enclosed in a gilt frame. The house was leased to 
 Egerton and Abbott in 1833, when the name was changed to " Victoria," and the 
 Princess (her present Majesty) visited the theatre. 
 
 WHITEFRIARS THEATRE (the) was originally the hall of Whitefriars monastery, 
 outside the garden-wall of Dorset House. From a survey in Mr. Collier's possession, 
 we learn that the theatre was fitted up in 1586 ; it was taken down in 1613. Howes, 
 in his continuation of Stoiv, describes, " the erection of a new fair playhouse near the 
 Whitefriars," 1629 : this was " the Private House in Salisburie-court." 
 
 OPERA HOUSES, ITALIAN. HER MAJESTY'S THEATRE. The first theatre for the 
 performance of Italian operas in England was built by subscription, by Sir John Van- 
 brugh, at the south-west corner of the Haymarket, and was opened April 9, 1705 : 
 but operas were not performed here wholly in Italian until 1710, when Almahide was 
 produced ; and next year Handel's Sinaldo, in Italian, and by Italian singers. On 
 June 17, 1789, the theatre was burnt down ; and upon the same site, enlarged, 
 April 3, 1790, was laid the first stone of the present Opera House, designed by Novo- 
 sielski, who introduced the horse-shoe form of auditory, from the Italian theatres. In 
 1820 the exterior was altered by Nash and Repton in the Roman-Doric style, as we 
 now see it, fronted with arcade and colonnade : each of the iron columns is a single 
 casting. The Haymarket front bears a basso-relievo, by Bubb, of lithargolite, or arti- 
 ficial stone, illustrating the progress of Music ; Apollo and the Muses occupying the 
 centre. The interior, at the time of its erection, was larger than that of La Scala at 
 Milan, or the Theatre Italien at Paris. The audience and stage ground are held on 
 two distinct leases. The whole theatre is lined with thin wood in very long pieces, as 
 the best conductor of sound. It was entirely re-decorated in the Raphaelesque and 
 Roman style in 1846. Hora.ce Walpole's box was No. 3, on the grand tier. There 
 are 177 boxes, the freehold of some of which has been sold for 7000 and 8000 guineas : 
 the season-rent is 300 guineas ; a small box, fourth tier, has been let for one night at 
 12 guineas. When Mr. Lumley purchased the theatre in 1844, he realized 90,000. 
 by selling boxes in perpetuity. The house will accommodate about 3000 persons. The 
 drop-scene was painted by Stanfield, R.A. The decorations, after ancient masters, are 
 extremely beautiful. Here is a model of the theatre, 10 feet high. Part of the 
 scenery is deposited at " the Barn," James-street, Haymarket. 
 
 The Italian Opera House in the Haymarket has ever been a costly speculation. In 1720 George I.
 
 TOKENS. 
 
 789 
 
 headed a subscription of 50,0001. for its support. Ebers lost 44,0802. (tee his Seven Tears of the King's 
 Theatre, 1829). For two seasons he paid 15,0001. rent per annum. One season's expenses : Opera, 
 863R?. ; ballet, 10,678?.; orchestra, 326U.; scone-painting and wardrobes (50,000 dresses), 53721. ; lighting, 
 12314. ; salaries, 25781.; servants, 4031. ; military guard at the doors, 150/. ; fittings of the king's box, in 
 1821, 3001.; nightly expenses from 7001. to 10001. The largest receipts were in the seasons when Jenny 
 Lind sang. Her Majesty's is stated to be the only theatre which has no lease. It claims the exclusive 
 right to produce foreign operas, from a deed made in 1792, covenanting that " the patents of Drury Lane 
 and Covent Garden shall never be exercised for the purpose of Italian operas." See an able account of 
 Her Majesty's Theatre, by Shirley Brooks, Morning Chronicle, March 20, 1851. Mr. Lumley's greatest 
 seasons were those in which Mile. Jenny Lind gave her matchless performances in opera. 
 
 EOYAL ITALIAN OPEBA, Covent Garden Theatre, was opened April 6, 1847, with 
 Semiramide (Grisi), and M. Costa as musical director. The originator of this second 
 Italian Opera House was Mr. C. L. Griineisen, with Mr. T. F. Beale as director. In 
 the seasons of 1848 and 1849 were expended 60,0001. ; and the salaries of Alboni, 
 Viardot, Grisi, and Mario, were between 4000/. and 5000Z. each. (See p. 782.) 
 
 The Act 6th and 7th of Victoria, cap. 68 (1843), which is the most important of all, authorizes the 
 Lord Chamberlain to license houses for stage-plays in London, Westminster, Brighton, and New 
 Windsor, and wherever the precincts of the Court may for a time be; also authorizes justices of the 
 peace to license houses beyond the Lord Chamberlain's jurisdiction : also authorizes the Lord Chamber- 
 lain to license stage-plays throughout Great Britain. This Act was looked upon at the time as a most 
 liberal measure. It abolished the privileges of the patents, and allowed the Lord Chamberlain to license 
 within certain districts as many theatres as he pleased, all endowed with equal rights, thus depriving 
 the expression "minor theatre" of its distinctive signification. 
 
 The number of London Theatres licensed by the Lord Chamberlain for the per- 
 formance of any kind of drama whatever in 1866 was 23. Of these we give a list, 
 together with the number of persons which each will contain, extracted from one of 
 the statements laid before Parliament : 
 
 Her Majesty's 2200 
 
 Drury-lane 2500 
 
 Covent-garden 2500 
 
 Haymarket 1500 
 
 Princess's 2000 
 
 St. James's 1000 
 
 Adelphi 1800 
 
 Lyceum ...... 1700 
 
 Marylebone 1200 
 
 Olympic 1000 
 
 Strand 700 
 
 Astley's 2200 
 
 Victoria ... . . 2000 
 
 Surrey 2000 
 
 Pavilion 2300 
 
 Grecian 2'JOO 
 
 Britannia ..... 2400 
 City of London .... 1400 
 Standard ..... 2000 
 
 Garrick 1100 
 
 New Royalty 600 
 
 Queen's 900 
 
 Sadler's Wells .... 1300 
 
 23 theatres, containing . 38,300 
 
 Besides 3 theatres since opened, and the Standard and Effingham rebuilt. 
 
 THEEADNEEDLE-STREET, 
 
 OR Three- Needle-street (Stow), originally extended from Bishopsgate-street to Stocks 
 Market, but now terminates at the Bank of England. The name is from three 
 needles, the charge on the shield of the Needlemakers' Company's arms; but Pennant 
 traces the final cause to the Hall of the Merchant-Taylors, Taylors, and Linen-armourers 
 in this street. Hatton refers it to "such a sign." (See MEBCHANT-TAILOBS' HALL, 
 SOUTH-SEA HOUSE, and HALL OP COMMERCE.) Upon part of the site of the latter 
 lived Sir William Sidney, one of the heroes of Flodden Field ; and his son, Sir Henry 
 Sidney, in whose arms died Edward VI. Sir Henry then retired to Penshurst, where 
 was born, in 1554, his son, the famed Sir Philip Sidney. Upon the site of the present 
 chief entrance to the Bank of England, in Threadneedle-street, stood the Crown Tavern, 
 " behind the 'Change :" it was much frequented by Fellows of the Eoyal Society, when 
 they met at Greshani College, hard by. The Crown, was burnt in the Great Fire, but 
 was rebuilt j and a century since, at this tavern, " it was nob unusual to draw a butt 
 of mountain, containing 120 gallons, in gills, in a morning." (Sir John Hawkins.) At 
 No. 20 lived Alderman (now Sir Francis Graham) Moon, F.S.A., the eminent print- 
 publisher : he was Lord-Mayor in 1854-5, when he received his patent of baronetcy. 
 
 TOKENS. 
 
 IN the reign of Elizabeth (1558), the great want of halfpence and farthings led to 
 private Tokens, or farthings, of lead, tin, latten, and leather, being struck for ale- 
 house-keepers, chandlers, grocers, vintners, and other traders; the figure and devices 
 being emblematical of the various trades, victuallers especially adopting their signs. 
 They were made without any form or fashion ; and some of them (as the leaden tokens 
 of Elizabeth's reign) are now of extreme rarity. Every one issuing this useful specie
 
 790 ' CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 was compelled to take it again when offered; and this practice continued until 1672, 
 when Charles II. struck halfpence and farthings. Within the present century, however, 
 many tokens obtained general circulation in London, by which means tradesmen adver- 
 tised their business : such tokens also recorded great events, portraits of public men, 
 views of places and of entertainments, which might otherwise have been lost. They 
 mostly disappeared on Watt's new copper coinage of George III. The great national 
 collection of tokens in the British Museum is the finest we possess. Mr. Roach Smith's 
 collection, now in the British Museum, contains about 500 mediaeval leaden tokens, 
 and many tradesmen's tokens in brass, from about 1648 to 1674. (See Catalogue, 
 1854.) The Beaufoy Cabinet, presented to the Corporation Library, consists exclu- 
 sively of London traders', tavern, and coffee-house Tokens current in the 17th century, 
 1174 in number : they are well described and annotated in a Catalogue by Jacob 
 Henry Burn, printed for the Corporation, 1853 ; and reprinted 1855. See also the 
 work on Tradesmen's Tokens current in London, 1648 to 1672, by J. Y. Akerman, 
 F.S.A., 4to, 1849. 
 
 ToJcenhouse-yard, on the north side of Lothbury, is named from the Mint-house, 
 or office for the issue and change of these farthings or tokens : it was built in the 
 reign of Charles I., and occupied the site of the house and garden of the Earl of 
 Arundel ; and from its proximity to the brassfounders of Lothbury, they are thought 
 to have minted the Tokens. 
 
 TOTTENHAM- CO URT-ROAD, 
 
 FROM Oxford-street to the Hampstead-road, was the old way from the village of St. 
 Giles's to the prebendal manor of Totham, Toten, or Totten Hall (named in 
 Domesday), and temp. Henry III. the mansion of William de Totenhall. It stood at the 
 north-west extremity of the present road, and is mentioned as a house of entertainment 
 in the parish-books of St. Giles's, in 1645, when Mrs. Stacye's maid and two others 
 were fined " for drinking at Tottenhall Court, on the Sabbath daie, xij<2. a-piece." It 
 was then altered to the Adam and Eve public-house, which, with the King's Head and 
 Tottenham Court turnpike, is shown in Hogarth's " March to Finchley," at the Found- 
 ling Hospital. At the Adam and Eve were a music-room and tea-gardens; here 
 Lunardi ascended in his balloon, May 16, 1785. A portion of the old court-house 
 remained to our time ; the gardens were built upon between 1806 and 1810, and the 
 public-house has been rebuilt. J. T. Smith, in his Book for a Rainy Day, remembers, in 
 1773, Capper's Farm, behind the north-west end of Russell-street, noted for its garden- 
 houses in Strype's time. From Capper's Farm were straggling houses, but Totten- 
 ham-Court-road was then " unbuilt upon." The first house (No. 1) in Oxford-street 
 bore on its front, cut in stone, " Oxford-street, 1725." The Slue Posts, corner of 
 Hanway-street, was once kept by Sturges, the famous draught-player, author of a 
 Treatise on Draughts. The site of Gresse-street (named from Gresse, the painter) 
 was then gardens, recommended by physicians for the salubrity of the air. Stephen- 
 street was then built : George Morland the painter, lived here, at No. 14, in 1780. 
 Whitefield's chapel was built in 1754, upon the site of " the Little Sea" pond ; and a 
 turnstile opened into Crab-tree Fields, which then extended to the Adam and Eve. 
 
 "Totten-Court, a mansion in the fields," is a scene in Ben Jonson's Tale of a Tub . and the scene of 
 Thomas Nash's Tottenham-Court, a pleasant comedy (1639), is laid in "Marrowbone Park." 
 
 TOWER HILL 
 
 IS described by Hatton (1708) as " a spacious place extending round the west and 
 rorth parts of the Tower, where are many good new buildings, mostly inhabited 
 by gentry and merchants. Upon this hill such persons as are committed to the Tower 
 and found guilty of high treason are commonly executed. And Stow says " the scaffolds 
 were built at the charge of the City, but in the reign of Edward IV. the same was 
 erected at the charge of the King's officers ; and that many controversies have been 
 between the City and Lieutenant of the Tower touching their liberties." A century 
 nrevious the spot was noted for its salubrity : 
 
 " The Tower Hill, 
 Of all the places London can afford, 
 Hath sweetest ayre." Haughton's Englishmen for my Honey, 1616, 4to.
 
 TOWER OF LONDON. 791 
 
 The " bounds " of the Tower Liberties are perambulated triennially, when, after 
 service in the church of St. Peter, a procession is formed upon the parade : including 
 a headsman, bearing the axe of execution ; a painter to mark the bounds ; yeomen 
 warders, with halbards ; the Deputy Lieutenant and other officers of the Tower, &c. : 
 the boundary-stations are painted with a red " broad arrow " upon a white 
 ground, while the chaplain of St. Peter's repeats, " Cursed be he who removeth his 
 neighbour's landmark." Another old custom of lighting a bonfire on Tower Hill on 
 Nov. 5th was suppressed in 1854. 
 
 Lady Raleigh lived on Tower Hill after she had been forbidden to lodge with her 
 husband in the Tower. William Penn was born April 14th, 1644, in a court on the 
 east side of Tower Hill. At the Bull public-house died, April 14th, 1685, Otway the 
 poet, it is said of hunger. " In a by cutler's shop of Tower Hill," says Sir Henry 
 Wotton, " Felton bought a tenpenny knife (so cheap was the instrument of this great 
 attempt)," with which he assassinated the Duke of Buckingham. 
 
 Postern-row, with a few posts set across the footpath (opposite about the middle 
 of the Tower moat), denotes the site of the Postern-gate, at the south-eastern termi- 
 nation of the City Wall. Here is the rendezvous for enlisting sailors and soldiers, 
 which formerly had its press-gangs. The shops display odd admixtures of marine 
 stores, pea-jackets and straw-hats, " rope, hour-glasses, Gunter's scales, and dog- 
 biscuits." 
 
 The Place of Execution, on Great Tower Hill, is shown in the old plan of the Tower 
 at p. 793; the space eastward is Little Tower Hill. 
 
 Notable Persons Executed on Tower Hill.Jrme 22, 1535, Bishop Fisher. July 6, 1535, Sir Thomas 
 More. July 28, 1540, Cromwell, Earl of Esses. Jan. 21, 1547, Earl of Surrey, the poet. March 20, 1549, 
 Thomas Lord Seymour of Sudeley, the Lord Admiral, by order of his brother, the Protector Somerset, 
 who was beheaded Jan. 22, 1552. Feb. 12, 1553-4, Lord Guildford Dudley, husband of Lady 
 Jane Grey. April 11, 1554, Sir Thomas Wyat. May 12, 1641, Earl of Strafford. Jan. 10, 1644-5, 
 Archbishop Laud. Dec. 29, 1680, William Viscount Stafford, " insisting on his innocence to the very 
 last." Dec. 7, 1683, Algernon Sidney. July 15, 1685, the Duke of Monmouth. Feb. 24, 1716, Earl of 
 Derwentwater and Lord Kenmuir. Aug. 18, 1746, Lords Kilmarnock and Balmerino. Dec. 8, 1748, 
 Mr. Radcliffe, who had been, with his brother Lord Derwentwater, convicted of treason in the Rebellion 
 of 1715, when Derwentwater was executed ; but Radcliffe escaped, and was identified by the barber who, 
 31 years before, had shaved him in the Tower. Chamberlain Clark, who died in 1831, aged 92 years, 
 well remembered (his father then residing in the Minories) seeing the glittering of the executioner's 
 axe in the sun as it fell upon Mr. Radcliffe's neck. April 9, 1747, Simon Lord Lovat, the last beheading 
 in England, and the last execution upon Tower Hill, when a scaffolding built near Barking-alley fefl 
 with nearly 1000 persons on it, and 12 were killed. 
 
 On the west side of Tower Hill is Great Tower-street : No. 48, on the south side, is 
 the Czar's Head, built upon the site of the former tavern, where Peter the Great (Czar 
 of Muscovy) and his companions, after their day's work, used to meet, to smoke pipes 
 and drink beer and brandy. In Little Tower-street, No. 12, was Watts's Academy, 
 where Thomson was tutor when he wrote his Summer. 
 
 At the south-west corner of the Hill is Tower DocTc, where Sir Walter Raleigh, 
 disguised, embarked in a boat for Tilbury ; but being betrayed, he was arrested on the 
 Thames, and committed to the Tower. 
 
 TOWER OF LONDON, THE, 
 
 " rPHE citadel to defend or command the City" (Stow), stands on the north bank of 
 J- the Thames, about a mile below London Bridge, and in the oldest part of the 
 metropolis; "between the south-east end of the City Wall and the river, though the 
 west part is supposed within the City,* but with some uncertainty ; and in what 
 county the whole stands is not easy discovered." (Hatton, 1708.) It comprises 
 within the walls an area of 12 acres 5 roods. Tradition has assigned its origin to 
 Julius Caesar, and our early poets have adopted this antiquity : 
 
 " Prince Edward. I do not like the Tower of any place. 
 Did Julius Caesar build that place, my lord ? 
 
 Buckingham. He did, my gracious lord, begin that place, 
 Which since succeeding ages have re-edified. 
 
 Prince Edward. Is it upon record, or else reported 
 
 * " It was proved in the case of Sir Thomas Overbury, upon a question as to whether his murder 
 was committed within the boundaries of the City or in the county of Middlesex, that the City Wall 
 traversed the buildings contained within the Tower; and his apartment being on the west of it, the 
 criminals came accordingly under the jurisdiction of the City." Archer's Vestiges, part iii.
 
 792 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Successively from age to age, he built it ? 
 Buckingham. Upon record, my gracious lord." 
 
 Shakspeare's Richard III., act iii. sc. 1. 
 
 This, however, is unsupported by records ; but that the Romans had a fortress here in 
 a subsequent age is probable, from the discovery of Roman remains upon the site ; 
 and a Roman wall is still visible near the ditch. The Saxon Chronicle leads to the 
 belief of there having been a Saxon fortress upon the spot. 
 
 The oldest portion of the present fortress is the Keep, or White Tower, so named 
 from its having been originally whitewashed, as appears from a Latin document of the 
 year 1241. This tower was built about 1078, for William the Conqueror, by Gundulph, 
 bishop of Rochester, who also erected Rochester Castle ; and the two fortresses have 
 points of resemblance. William Rufus greatly added to the Tower. At the close of 
 his reign was sent here the first prisoner, Ralph Flambard, or Firebrand, who con- 
 trived to escape by a window which is shown. Henry I. strengthened the fortress ; 
 and Stephen, in 1140, kept his court here. 
 
 Fitzstephen describes it as "the Tower Palatine, very large and very strong, whose court anl walls 
 rise up from a deep foundation. The mortar is tempered with the blood of beasts. On the west are 
 two castles, well fenced." 
 
 About 1190, the Regent Bishop Longchanip surrounded the fortress with an em- 
 battled stone wall and " a broade and deepe ditch :" for breaking down part of the 
 City wall he was deposed, and besieged in the Tower, but surrendered after one night. 
 King John held his court here. Henry III. strengthened the White Tower, and 
 founded the Lion Tower and other western bulwarks ; and in this reign the palace- 
 fortress was alternately held by the king and the insurgent barons. Edward I. en- 
 larged the moat, and on the west made the last additions of military importance prior 
 to the invention of cannon. Edward II. reared here against his subjects ; and here 
 was born his eldest daughter, Joan of the Tower. Edward III. imprisoned here many 
 illustrious persons, including David king of Scotland, and John king of France with 
 Philip bis son.* During the insurrection of Wat Tyler, King Richard II. took refuge 
 here, with his court and nobles, 600 persons : Richard was deposed whilst imprisoned 
 here, in 1399. Edward IV. kept a magnificent court here. In 1460 Lord Scales was 
 besieged here by the Yorkists, and was taken and slain in endeavouring to escape by 
 water. Henry VI., twice imprisoned in the fortress, died here in 1471 ; but the tra- 
 dition that George Duke of Clarence was drowned here in 1478, in a butt of malmsey- 
 wine, is of little worth. The beheading of Lord Hastings, in 1483, by order of the 
 Protector Gloucester (on a log of timber in front of the Chapel) ; the seizure of the 
 crown by Richard ; and the supposed murder of his nephews, Edward V. and the Duke 
 of York, are the next events in the annals of the fortress. Henry VII. frequently 
 resided in the Tower, where also his queen sought refuge from " the society of her 
 sullen and cold-hearted husband :" the king held a splendid tournament here in 1501 ; 
 his queen died here in 1503. Henry VIII. often held his court in this fortress : here, 
 in great pomp, Henry received all his wives previous to their espousals ; here were be- 
 headed his queens Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard. About this time (1548) oc- 
 curred a great fire in the Tower : 
 
 "jj A (Edw. VI.) Item the xxij day of November was in the nyghte a grete fyer in the tower of 
 London, and a gret pesse burnyd, by menes of a Frencheman that sette a barrelle of gonnepoder a fyere, 
 and soo was burnyd hymselfe, and no more persons, but moch hurte besyde." Chron. Grey Friars of 
 London. 
 
 Edward VI. kept his court in the Tower prior to his coronation : here his uncle, the 
 Protector Somerset, was twice imprisoned before his decapitation on Tower Hill, in 
 1552. Lady Jane Grey entered the fortress as queen of England, but in three weeks 
 became here a captive with her youthful husband : both were beheaded. Queen Mary, 
 at her court in the Tower, first showed her Romish resolves : her sister, the Princess 
 Elizabeth, was imprisoned here on suspicion of favouring Sir Thomas Wyat's design ; 
 she was compelled to enter at the Traitors' Gate, when she exclaimed, " Here landeth 
 as true a subject, being a prisoner, as ever landed at these stairs ; and before Thee, O 
 God, I speak it." Queen Elizabeth did not keep her court in the Tower, but at no 
 period was the state prison more " constantly thronged with delinquents." James I. 
 
 i No oerson was allowed temp. Edward III. to bathe in the Tower, or ia the Thames neai the 
 Tower; under penalty o death.
 
 TOWER OF LONDON. 
 
 793 
 
 resided here, and delighted in combats of the wild beasts kept here. In Charles I.'s 
 reign many leading partisans were imprisoned here j and under the government of 
 Oliver Cromwell, and in the reigns of Charles II. and James II., the Tower was 
 filled with prisoners, the victims of state policy, intrigue, tyranny, or crime. The 
 Courts of Justice, the King's Bench and Common Pleas were held here ; the former in 
 the Lesser Hall, beneath the east turret of the White Tower ; the latter in the Great 
 Hall, by the river. Almost from the Conquest, our sovereigns, at their coronations, 
 went in great state and procession from the Tower, through the City, to Westminster; 
 the last observance being at the coronation of Charles II. All the domestic apart- 
 ments of the ancient palace within the Tower were taken down during the reigns of 
 James II. and William and Mary. In 1792 the garrison was increased. 
 
 V 
 
 A. White Tower. B. Wardrobe Tower. C. St. John's Chapel, in the White Tower. D. Cold 
 Harbour. B. Bloody Tower. F. St. Thomas's Tower. G. Traitor's Gate. H. Well Tower. I. Cradle 
 Tower. K. Hall Tower. L. Lantern Tower. M. Salt Tower. N. Tower above the Iron Gate. 
 O. Tower leading to the Iron Gate. P. Broad Arrow Tower. Q. Constable Tower. E. Martin 
 Tower. S. Brick Tower. T. Bowyer's Tower. U. Flint Tower. \. Bell Tower. W. Devilin Tower 
 X. Beauchamp Tower. Y. Bayard Tower. Z. Middle Tower. 
 
 1. Posts of the Scaffold. 2. Cage. 3. Barkin Church. 4. The Bulwark Gate. B. Lyon Tower. 
 6. Lyons Gate. 7. St. Peter's Church. 8. Postern Gate. 9. The Stone Kitchen. 10. Lieutenant's 
 Lodgings. 11. Jewel House. 12. Hall decayed. 13. Queen's Gallery. 14. Private Gardens. 15. Iron 
 Gate. 16. Thames-street. 17. Queen's Lodgings.
 
 794 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 " Several hundred men were employed in repairing the fortifications, opening the embrasures, and 
 mounting cannon ; and on the western side of the fortress a strong barrier was formed with old casks 
 filled with earth and rubble ; the gates were closed at an early hour, and no one but the military allowed 
 to go on the ramparts." Bayley. 
 
 The Tower Palace occupied the south-eastern portion of the inner ward, as shown 
 (p. 793) in the plan of the fortress in the reign of Elizabeth, within a century from 
 which period much of its ancient character was obliterated by small buildings between 
 its towers and courts. Northward of the White Tower was built, temp. James II. and 
 William III., the Grand Storehouse for the Royal Train of Artillery, and the Small 
 Armoury for 150,000 stand of arms : this building, 345 feet in length, was destroyed 
 by fire October 30, 1841 ;* since which the Tower has been " remodelled," many 
 small dwelling-houses have been cleared away, and several towers and defences have 
 been rebuilt. The houses of Petty Wales and the outworks have been removed, with 
 the Menagerie buildings at the entrance from the west. 
 
 The Lion Tower was built by Henry III., who commenced assembling here a 
 menagerie with three leopards sent to him by the Emperor Frederic II., " in token of 
 his regal shield of arms, wherein those leopards were pictured." Here, in 1255, the 
 Sheriffs built a house " for the King's elephant," brought from France, and the first 
 seen in England. Our early sovereigns had also a mews in the Tower : 
 
 "Merry Margaret, as Midsomer flowre, 
 Gentyll as i'aucon and hawke of the Towre." Skelton. 
 
 To the Lion Tower was built a semicircular enclosure, where lions and bears were 
 baited with dogs, in which James I. and his court much delighted. A lion was named 
 after the reigning king ; and it was popularly believed that " when the king dies, the 
 lion of that name dies after him" (see also Addison's Freeholder, No. 47). " Washing 
 the Lions on the first of April" was another popular hoax. The menagerie greatly 
 declined until 1822, when it revived under the management of Mr. Cops ; the last of 
 the animals were, however, transferred to the Zoological Society's Gardens, in the 
 Eegent's Park, in 1834 : but the buildings were not entirely removed until 1853 ; the 
 Refreshment-room and ticket-office occupy part of the site of the Lion Tower. See 
 The Tower Menagerie, with woodcut portraits drawn by Harvey. 
 
 The Tower Moat or Ditch was drained in 1843, filled up, and turfed, for the exercise 
 of the garrison : occasionally sheep feed here. The banks are clothed with thriving 
 evergreens ; and en the north-east is a pleasant shrubbery-garden, f 
 
 " In draining the moat were found several stone shot, which had probably been projected against the 
 fortress during the siege of 1460, when Lord Scales held the Tower for the king, and the Yorkists can- 
 nonaded him from a battery on the Southwark side of the river." Hewitt's Tower and its Armouries. 
 
 The land entrance to the fortress is by the Middle Tower, and a stone bridge, 
 anciently a drawbridge, crossing the Moat, at the south-west angle, to the Byword 
 Tower : these towers were strongly fortified, and provided each with a double portcullis. 
 On the right, a small drawbridge crosses the Moat, and leads to the wharf fronting the 
 Thames. Here is St. Thomas's Tower : Ings, the Cato-street conspirator, was the 
 last person confined in this Tower. Beneath it is Traitors' Gate, with a cut which 
 until lately connected the ditch with the river : by this entrance state prisoners were 
 formerly brought into the Tower ; and through it 
 
 " Went Sidney, Russell, Ealeigh, Cranmer, More." Rogers. 
 
 "When it was found necessary, from any cause, to carry a prisoner through the streets, the Sheriffs 
 received him from the king's lieutenants at the entrance to the City, gave a receipt for him, and took 
 another on delivering him up at the gates of the Tower. The receipt of the Governor for the body of 
 the Duke of Monmouth his living body is still extant." Dixon's Prisons of London, 1850. 
 
 Traitors' Gate is now a modernized sham. Eastward is the basement-story of the 
 Cradle Tower, in good condition ; the Well Tower is used as a warder's residence. 
 
 * There were 94,500 stands of arms, of which 4000 were saved : loss by the fire, about 250,000?. 
 Among the objects destroyed and lost were a cannon of wood, and the state swords of Justice and Mercy 
 carried before the Pretender when he was proclaimed in Scotland in 1715. 
 
 t In 1830 the Tower Ditch was filled with water, and cleansed, by order of the Duke of Wellington, 
 as Constable ; which measure was gravely described at the time as putting the fortress into a state of 
 security against the Reform Bill agitation 1
 
 TOWER OF LONDON. 795 
 
 The front wall is embattled, and mounted with cannon ; and on the wharf were for- 
 merly fired the " Tower Guns." Hatton describes them, in 1708, as " 62 guns, lying 
 in a range, fast in the ground, always ready to be discharged on any occasion of vic- 
 tories, coronations, festivals, days of thanksgiving, triumphs, &c." The guns are now 
 fired from a new " Saluting Battery," facing Tower-hill. 
 
 Between the outer and inner wards extends a narrow street, in part formerly occu- 
 pied by the buildings of the Mint, removed to Tower Hill in 1810. The towers of 
 the inner ward are commencing from the south-east, the Sell Tower, containing the 
 alarm-bell of the garrison ; it is said to have been the prison-lodging of Fisher, Bishop 
 of Rochester, and subsequently of the Princess Elizabeth : " at this point, in former 
 times, were other gates, to prevent an enemy getting possession of the lines, and to 
 guard the approaches to the inner ballium." Hewitt. 
 
 Between the Sell Toioer and the Beauchamp Tower was formerly a passage by the 
 leads, used as a promenade for prisoners, of whom the walls bear memorials ; among 
 them is " Respice finem, W. D." Next, northward, is the Beauchamp or Cobham 
 Tower, a curious specimen of the military architecture of the 12th and 13th centuries. 
 
 This tower is named from Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, being confined here in 1397, and 
 the Cobhams in 155 i. It was restored by Anthony Salvin in 1851; when lithographed copies of theln- 
 scriptions, Memorials, and Devices cut on the walls of the rooms and cells, were published by W. E. Dick. 
 
 It is much to be regretted that these records in stone have been removed from 
 their original places into the large room. 
 
 Upon the wall is a rebus of Dr. Abel, chaplain to Catherine of Aragon ; a bell in- 
 scribed TA, and Thomas above. Couplets, maxims, allegories, and spiritual truths 
 are sometimes added : of these we can only select a few : 
 
 " Thomas Willyngar, goldsmithe. My hart is yours tel dethe." By the side is a figure of a bleeding 
 *' hart," and another of " dethe ;" and " T. W." and " P. A." 
 
 " Thomas Rose, 
 Within this Tower strong 
 Kept close 
 By those to whom he did no wrong. May 8th, 1666." 
 
 The figure of a man, praying, underneath " Ro. Bainbridge" (1587-8). 
 
 "Thomas Bawdewin, 1584, Jvly. As vertve maketh life, so sin cawseth death." 
 " Walter Paslew, dated 1569 & 1570. My hope is in Christ." Devices of the Peverels ; and crucifix 
 And bleeding heart. " J. C. 1538." " Learne to feare God." " Eeprens . le . sage . et . il . te armera. 
 'lake wisdom, and he shall arm you." 
 
 Over the fireplace is inscribed : 
 
 " Quanto plus afflictionis pro Christo in hoc saeculo, 
 
 Tanto plus gloriae cum Christo in futnro. 
 
 Arundell, June 22, 1587." 
 " Gloria et honore eum coronasti Domine : 
 
 In memoria aeterna erit Justus. Atuch ....." 
 
 One of the most elaborate devices is that of John Dvdle, Earl of Warwick, tried 
 and condemned in 1553 for endeavouring to deprive Mary of the crown ; but being 
 reprieved, he died in his prison-room, where he had wrought upon the wall his family's 
 cognizance, the lion, and bear and ragged staff, underneath which is his name ; the 
 whole surrounded by oak-sprigs, roses, geraniums, honeysuckles, emblematic of the 
 Christian names of his four brothers, as appears from this inscription : 
 
 " Yow that these beasts do wel behold and se, 
 May deme with ease wherefore here made they bo 
 Withe borders eke wherein (there may be found) 
 4 brothers' names, who list to serche the grovnd." 
 
 The names of the four brothers were Ambrose, Robert, Guildford, and Henry : thus, 
 A, acorn ; R, rose ; G, geranium ; H, honeysuckle : others think the rose indicates 
 Ambrose, and the oak Robert (robur). In another part is carved an oak-tree bearing 
 acorns, signed R.D. j the work of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. 
 
 " I h s 1571, die 10 Aprilis. Wise men ought circumspectly to see what they do, to examine before 
 they speake, to prove before they take in hand, to beware whose company they use, and above all things, 
 to whom they truste. Charles Bailly." Another of Bailly's apophthegms is : " The most vnhapy man. 
 in the world is he that is not pacient in adversities; for men are not killed with the adversities they 
 .have, but with ye impacience which they Bvfier."
 
 796 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 " O . Lord . whic . art . of . heavn . King . Grannt . gras . and . lyfe . everlastig . to . Miagh . thy . 
 servant . in . prison . alon . with * * * * Thomas Miagh." Again : 
 
 "Thomas Miagh, whiche lieth here alon, 
 That fayne wovld from hens be gon, 
 By tortyre straunge mi troth was 
 tryed, yet of my libertie denied. 1581, Thomas Myagh." 
 
 (A prisoner for treason, tortured with Skeffington's irons and the rack.) 
 
 " Hit is the poynt of a wyse man to try and then trvste, for hapy is he whome fyudeth one that is 
 ivst. T. C." Again : " T. C. I leve in hope and 1 gave credit to mi frinde in time did stande me moste 
 in hande, so wovlde I never do againe, excepte I hade him sver in bande, and to al men wiche I so vnles, 
 ye svssteine the leke lose as I do. Vnhappie is that mane whose actes doth procvre the miseri of this 
 hovs in prison to indvre. 1576, Thomas Clarke." 
 
 In the State Prison Room occurs twice the name of " JANE" (Lady Jane Grey), 
 probably inscribed by one of the Dudleys, who were all imprisoned here in 1553, and 
 one of whom, Gnildford, was the lady's husband : this is the only memorial preserved 
 of Lady Jane in the Tower. Wallace, the Scottish hero, is erroneously named among 
 the prisoners here ; for Wallace was not confined in any part of the Tower, as proved 
 in a paper by Mr. W. Sydney Gibson, F.S.A., Notes and Queries, No. 213, p. 509. 
 
 The memorial of Thomas Salmon, 1622, now let into the wall of the middle room, 
 was formerly in the upper prison-lodging : 
 
 A shield surrounded by a circle ; above the circle the name "T. Salmon ;" a crest formed of three 
 salmons, and the date 1622; underneath the circle the motto Nee temere, nee timore "Neither rashly 
 nor with fear." Also a star containing the abbreviation of Christ, in Greek, surrounded by the sentence, 
 Sic vine vt vivas "So live that thou mayest live." In the opposite corner are the words, Et morire ne 
 morierin "And die that thou mayest die not." Surrounding a representation of Death's head, above 
 the device, is the enumeration of Salmon's confinement : "Close prisoner 8 moneths, 32 wekes, 224 dayes, 
 6376 houres." 
 
 On the ground-floor is incised : 
 
 "The man whom this house can not mend, 
 Hath evill becom, and worse will end." 
 
 " Round this (Beauchamp) chamber a secret passage has recently been discovered in the masonry, in 
 which spies were, no doubt, set to listen, and report the conversation or soliloquies of prisoners, when, 
 they, poor souls, believed themselves alone. The men who live in the Tower have christened this pas- 
 sage the Whispering Gallery." Dixou's Prisons, 1850, p. 70. 
 
 Raleigh was thrice imprisoned in the Tower ; in 1592 (eight weeks), for winning 
 the heart of Elizabeth Throgmorton, one of Elizabeth's maids of honour ; " not only a 
 moral sin, but in those days a heinous political offence." In 1604 he was again com- 
 mitted to the Tower, and in the frenzy of despair attempted to stab himself to the 
 heart ; he remained here a captive nearly thirteen years, part of the time with Lady 
 Raleigh : here, 1605, was born Carew, their second son. Sir Walter's prison-lodging 
 is thought to have been the second and third stories of the Beauchamp Tower j here 
 he devoted much time to chemistry and pharmaceutical preparations. " He has con- 
 verted," says Sir William Wade, Lieutenant of the Tower, " a little hen-house in the 
 garden into a still-house, and here he doth spend his time all the day in distilla- 
 tions ; ... he doth show himself upon the wall in his garden to the view of the 
 people :" here Raleigh prepared his " rare cordial,"* wrote his political discourses, 
 and commenced his famous History of the World. He was at length liberated, 
 but again committed to the Tower, about two months before his execution at 
 Westminster. 
 
 Ealeigh's constant study was in the pages of that Divine book, by which, as he told the clergyman 
 who rebuked him for his seeming lightness, on the eve of his beheadal, he had prepared himself to 
 look fearlessly on- death. His last hours were each an episode, and his acts and words have been 
 carefully recorded. On the morning of his execution, his keeper brought a cup of sack to him, and 
 inquired how he was pleased with it? " As well as he who drank of St. Giles's bowl as he rode to 
 Tyburne," answered the knight, and said, " it was a good drink, if a man might but tarry by it." 
 " Prithee, never fear, Beeston," cried he to his old friend Sir Hugh, who was repulsed from the scaffold 
 by the sheriff, "I shall have a place !" A bald man, from extreme age, pressed forward "to see him," 
 he said, "and pray God for him." Raleigh took a richly-embroidered cap from his own head, and 
 placing it on that of the old man, said, " Take this, good friend, to remember me, for you have more 
 need of it than 1." " Farewell, my lords," was his cheerful parting to a courtly group, who affectionately 
 took their sad leave of him, " I hare a long journey before me, and I must e'en say good-bye." "Now 
 1 am going to God," said that heroic spirit, as he trod the scaffold ; and, gently touching the axe, added, 
 ,' This is a sharp medicine, but it will cure all diseases." The very headsman shrank from beheading 
 
 * Raleigh's " Rare Cordial," with other ingredients introduced by Sir Kcnelm Digby and Sir A. 
 Frazer, is the Confectio aromatica of the present London Pharmacopoeia.
 
 TOWER OF LONDON. 797 
 
 one so illustrious and brave, until the unquailing soldier addressed him, " What dost thou fear ? Strike, 
 man !" In another moment, the mighty soul had fled from its mangled tenement. 
 
 Raleigh's shifting imprisonments must have been very irksome. Thus, in 1603, 
 
 "In the course of a few months Raleigh was first confined in his own house, then conveyed to the 
 Tower, next sent to Winchester Gaol, returned from thence to the Tower, imprisoned for between two 
 and three months in the Fleet, and again removed to the Tower, where he remained until released 
 thirteen years afterwards, to undertake his new expedition to Guiana." (Mr. J. Payne Collier; 
 Archasologia, vol. xxxv. p. 218.) Mr. Collier possesses a copy of that rare tract, " A Good Speed to 
 Virginia," 4to. 1609, with the autograph on the title-page, " Vv~. Ealegh, Turr. Loud. ;" showing that 
 at the time this tract was published, and read by Baleigh, he recorded himself as a prisoner in the 
 Tower of London. 
 
 We learn from the Memorials of the Tower, by Lord De Ros, the Lieutenant- 
 Governor, that the late Prince Consort interested himself to preserve the remains of the 
 original building, and caused it to be declared that " no edifice within the Tower walls 
 should be built, altered, or restored until the plans and elevations should have been 
 submitted for the Queen's personal approval." 
 
 North of the Beauchamp Tower is the Devereux Tower, which has been rebuilt 
 Tinder the direction of the Ordnance. The original tower, with walls 11 feet thick, 
 was the prison-lodging of Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex ; in the lower chambers 
 were passages leading to the adjoining CHAPEL OF ST. PETER, described at p. 198. 
 
 Eastward are the Flint, Bowyer, and Brick Towers, which have also been rebuilt 
 by the Ordnance. In the Eowyer Tower resided the Master and Provider of the 
 King's Bows ; and in a work-room over this tower originated the fire which destroyed 
 the Grand Storehouse in 1841 : the basement, strongly groined and vaulted, has been 
 restored. Beneath the floor is a still more dreary vault, with a trap-door opening 
 upon a flight of steps. The Brick Tower, the reputed prison-house of Lady Jane 
 Grey, had its modernized superstructure destroyed in the fire of 1841 ; but the original 
 basement and a dungeon beneath remained. 
 
 The Martin Tower, at the north-east angle, was formerly a prison-lodging, and next 
 the Jewel Tower. Anne Boleyn was imprisoned here : on the walls is a coat-of-arms 
 and " Boullen :" she slept in the little upper room. Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, 
 and Lord Southampton (Shakspeare's friend), were also prisoners in the Martin Tower ; 
 and here were confined, by James II., Archbishop Sancroft and the six bishops. The 
 Keeper of the Regalia resides here. Thence, southward, is the Constable Tower, rebuilt 
 by the Ordnance. Next is the Broad, Arrow Tower, in its original condition : Lady 
 Jane Grey was a prisoner here : the Latin couplet which Fox states Jane scratched 
 with a pin upon the walls of her chamber, can nowhere be found. The Salt(petre) 
 Tower is called " Julius Csesar Tower " in a survey temp. Henry VIII., and is sup- 
 posed to be actually of the reign of William Rufus. It is circular, and has a vaulted 
 dungeon : in the first-story chamber, among the devices and inscriptions cut in the 
 wall, is a sphere with the signs of the zodiac, and 
 
 "Hew : Draper : of: Bristow : made : thys : spheer : the : 30 : daye : of: Maye : anno 1561." 
 
 Draper was a wealthy tavern-keeper at Bristol, and was committed here "as suspect 
 of a conjuror or sorcerer," practising against "Sir William St. Lowe and my ladie;" 
 but he affirmed that " longe since he soe misliked his science, that he burned all his 
 books." A view of the Salt Tower, taken in 1846, is etched in Archer's Vestiges, 
 part iii. : it has been restored by Salvin. 
 
 Next the Salt Tower, westward, was the Lantern Tower, removed for the Ordnance 
 Office, greatly heightened in 1854, Further west is the Record Tower, also called 
 Wakefield, from the imprisonment of the Yorkists here after the battle of Wakefield, 
 1460 : this was also anciently the Sail Tower, from its proximity to the great hall of 
 the palace : the basement is Norman, probably of the reign of William Rufus ; the 
 walls are 13 feet thick. The upper chamber has been a Record-room since the reign 
 of Henry VIII. : here are the cartce antiques and chancery rolls, chronologically ranged 
 in presses. Opposite the chamber in which Henry VI. is supposed to have been 
 murdered, is the Record-keeper's room, where hang some of the Keepers' portraits : 
 William Lanibarde, the topographer ; the learned Selden ; the Puritan, William 
 Prynne ; and William Petyt, Samuel Lysons, and Henry Petrie, were distinguished 
 Record-keepers. The Octagon is " Edward the Confessor's Room."
 
 798 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Adjoining the Record Tower, westward, is the Bloody Tower: here, in a dark 
 windowless room, in which one of the portcullises was worked, George Duke of 
 Clarence is said to have been drowned in malmsey ; in the adjoining chamber, the two 
 princes are said to have been " smothered " whence the name of Bloody Tower. This 
 has been much disputed; but in a tract temp. James I. we read that the above 
 " turret our elders termed the Bloody Tower ; for the bloodshed, as they say, of those 
 infant princes of Edward IV., whom Richard III., of cursed memory (I shudder to 
 mention it), savagely killed, two together at one time." In the latter chamber was 
 imprisoned Colonel Hutchinson, whose wife, daughter of Sir Allen Apsley, Lieutenant 
 of the Tower, where she was born, related the above traditions. This portion was? 
 formerly called the Garden Tower ; it was built temp. Edward III., and is the only 
 ancient place of security, as a state prison, in the Tower : it is entered through a small 
 door in the inner balliuin; it consists of a day -room and a bed-room, and the leads on 
 which the prisoner was sometimes allowed to breathe the air. The last person who 
 occupied these apartments was Arthur Thistlewood, the Cato-street conspirator. 
 Westward are the Lieutenant's Lodgings (the Lieutenant's residence), chiefly timber- 
 built, temp. Henry VIII. ; in 1610 was added a chamber having a prospect to all the 
 three gates of the Tower, and enabling the lieutenant to call and look to the warders. 
 In the " Council Chamber " the Commissioners examined Guy Fawkes and his accom- 
 plices, as commemorated in a Latin and Hebrew inscription upon a parti-coloured 
 marble monument ; and elsewhere in the building there was discovered, about 1845, 
 " an inscription carved on an old mantelpiece relating to the Countess of Lenox, 
 grandmother of James I., 'commytede prysner to thys Logynge for the Marige of her 
 Sonne my Lord Henry Darnle and the Queen of Scotlande.' " (Hewitt's Tower, &c.) 
 Here a bust of James I. was set up, in 1608, by Sir William Wade, then Lieutenant; 
 the walls are painted with representations of men inflicting and suffering torture ; and 
 the room is reputed to be haunted ! The last person confined in the lodgings here 
 was Sir Francis Burdett, committed 1810, for writing in Cobbett's Weekly Register. 
 
 " Besides the ' prison lodgings,' there were other still more terrible chambers in the Tower ; chambers 
 especially constructed with a view to the torture of their inmates. One of these was called ' Little Ease ;' 
 a cell so small in its dimensions, that it was impossible for the prisoner to stand erect or to lie down 
 except in a cramped position (Holinshed, vol. iii. p. 825). Another was named 'The Pit.' Others are 
 said to have been full of vermin, especially rats, which at high water were driven up in shoals from the 
 Thames. The Devil's Tower probably took its name from some contrivance of this kind." Hewitt. 
 
 " An inscription recently found in an adjoining room tells us a State secret, that Margaret Douglas, 
 Countess of Lennox, mother of unhappy Darnley, was confined in these lodgings by Elizabeth, on sus- 
 picion of being concerned in the marriage of her son with Mary Queen of Scots. Margaret lived in 
 London for many years." Mr. Hepworth Dixon's Paper read to the Archaeological Institute, 1866. 
 
 The Place of Execution within the Tower on the Green was reserved for putting to 
 death privately ; and the precise spot, nearly opposite the door of St. Peter's Chapel, is 
 denoted by a large oval of dark flints : hereon perished Anne Boleyn and Catherine 
 Howard, Margaret Countess of Salisbury, and Lady Jane Grey. 
 
 The Bloody Tower gateway, built temp. Edward III. (opposite Traitors'" Gate), is 
 the main entrance to the Inner Ward : it has massive gates and portcullis, complete, 
 at the southern endj but those at the north end have been removed. 
 
 " The gates are genuine, and the portcullis is said to be the only one remaining in England fit for 
 use. The archway forms a noble specimen of the Doric order of Gothic. For a prison entrance we know- 
 of no more perfect model." Weale's London, p. 160. 
 
 Westward of the White Tower, between the Chapel and Lieutenant's Lodgings, was 
 the " Tower Green," now the parade-ground of the garrison. Northward, upon the 
 site of the Grand Storehouse,* are the W.aterloo Barracks (to receive 1000 men), in 
 the " modern castellated style," its only ancient features being battlements and machi- 
 colations : the first stone was laid June 14, 1845, by the Duke of Wellington, of whom 
 here was a pedestrian stone statue, by Milnes; upon a pedestal, now removed to 
 Woolwich Arsenal. 
 
 North-east of the White Tower is another "modern castellated" range of buildings 
 for the officers of the garrison. South-eastward are the unsightly piles of the 
 Ordnance Office and Store-houses. 
 
 * The large pediment of the Storehouse, filled with bold sculptures of the royal arms, guns, and 
 military trophies, was preserved, and has been set up opposite the Martin Tower.
 
 TOWER OF LONDON. 799 
 
 THE WHITE TOWEK, citadel, or keep (for many years of itself "the Tower of 
 London," the other buildings having been added as outworks), was begun by Bishop 
 Gundulph, in 1078, on the site of a work said to have been destroyed by floods. The 
 external dimensions of the White Tower are 176 feet north and south by 96 feet east 
 and west, with an eastern semicircular projection, the apsis of the chapel. The eleva- 
 tion is 92 feet ; it is embattled ; and its angles are finished with turrets, the vanes of 
 which are surmounted with the royal crown. The north and south-western turrets 
 are square, with a slight projection ; the south-eastern turret is built upon the summit 
 of the wall ; and that at the north-eastern angle is an irregular circle, and was pierced 
 to receive four clock-dials in 1854. This tower was called the Observatory, and was 
 employed by the " Astronomical Observator, John Flamsteed," who had " an hundred 
 poundes yearly payd him out of this office (of Ordnance) :" it contains a staircase 
 which communicates with each of the floors, from the vaults to the roof, which is 
 covered with lead, and was once a promenade for the prisoners. Traces of a large 
 archway on the north side indicate the original grand entrance, shown in the oldest 
 views ; the present entrances, north and south, are modern. The external walls are 
 from 10 to 12 feet thick, and the internal walls 7 feet ; of these there are only two, 
 which divide each floor into three apartments. The White Tower was first considerably 
 repaired about the middle of the 13th century; next, with Caen stone, in 1532; 
 "it was almost new erected in 1637 and 1638, being built of boulder and square stone" 
 (Hatton) ; and windows and other ancient features were obliterated in the reign ot 
 William III. On the eastern side is a wing occupied for Ordnance books and papers. 
 Here, circ. 1708, were " 3000 barrels of gunpowder at a time, with vast quantities of 
 match ; also swords and gin for mounting great guns ; and on the east side is a place 
 where the powder is proved before the surveyor and other officers." 
 
 On the first floor is Queen Elizabeth's Armoury, with a vaulted roof: on the north 
 side a door opens to a cell, 10 feet by 8, in the thickness of the wall ; this is said to 
 have been the prison-lodging of Sir Walter Ealeigh; near the cell entrance are 
 inscribed Rudstone, Fane, and Culpeper, all implicated in Sir Thomas Wyafs 
 rebellion. 
 
 " He that indvreth to the ende shal be savid 
 M : 10 E. livdston. Dar. Kent. Ano. 1553." 
 
 " Be faithfvl vnto the deth and I wil give thee a crowne of Life, 
 
 T Pane 1554." 
 " T Cvlpeper of Ailsford, Kent." 
 
 On the second floor, reaching to the roof, is the Chapel of St. John the Evangelist, the 
 most perfect specimen of Norman architecture in the metropolis ; it has an apsis, and 
 a gallery supported by 12 massive round columns, united by semicircular arches : here 
 our early sovereigns knelt before the King of kings. Three stained-glass windows 
 were added to this chapel by Henry III. : it was long used as a record depository. 
 In the third floor is the Council Chamber, a state apartment, with a massive timber 
 roof: here the Protector Gloucester ordered Lord Hastings to be led to instant execu- 
 tion in front of St. Peter's Chapel ; and commanded the arrest of the Archbishop of 
 York, the Bishop of Ely, and Lord Stanley. King John of France was lodged in the 
 White Tower in 1357. The vaults underneath were occupied as prisons : among then? 
 inscriptions is one carved by Fisher, Bishop of Eochester. Throughout the building 
 there is no trace of a fireplace or of a well. The Council Chamber and Banqueting 
 Hall are now filled with rifles ready for use. Hitherto, they had been used as store- 
 rooms, and the present alteration was made at the suggestion and from the designs of 
 the late Prince Consort. They now form two splendid armouries, the Council Chamber 
 containing 20,000 and the Banqueting Hall 31,000 Enfield and short rifles, ready at 
 any time for immediate use. The passages, walls, ceilings, beams, &c., are richly 
 ornamented with swords, bayonets, lances, pistols, and various other weapons, some of 
 them now obsolete. 
 
 A paper drawn up by a yeoman-warder, in 1641, shows the White Tower to have then been the Office 
 of Ordnance ; the Martin Tower was assigned to the Porter of the Mint ; the By ward and Water-gate 
 Towers to the warders; and eleven other towers were "prison-lodgings." 
 
 Mr. Hepworth Dixon's paper, elsewhere quoted, is a very attractive precis of the
 
 800 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 history of the Tower, narrated with poetic verve, and archaeological identification. Of 
 Charles of Orleans, the brave soldier and poet-prince, who was captured at Agincourt, 
 and remained prisoner in the Tower five-and-twenty years, Mr. Dixon tells us, there is 
 in the MS. department of the British Museum a copy of the prince's French poems, 
 nohly illuminated. " One of the drawings in this MS. is of peculiar interest : in the 
 first place, as heing the oldest view of the Tower extant ; in the second place, in fixing 
 the exact chamber in the White Tower in which the poet was confined, and displaying 
 dramatically the life which he led. First we see the prince at his desk, composing his 
 poems, with his gentlemen in attendance, and his guards on duty. Next we observe 
 him on a window-sill looking outwards into space. Then we have him at the foot of 
 the White Tower, embracing the messenger who brings him the ransom. Again, we 
 see him mounting his horse. Then we have him and his friendly messenger riding 
 away from the Tower. Lastly, he is seated in a barge, which lusty rowers are pulling 
 down the stream, for the boat which is to carry him to France." Mr. Dixon's paper 
 is printed in the Athenceum, No. 2021. 
 
 Imprisonments. Upwards of 1000 prisoners have been confined in the chambers 
 and cells of the Tower at one time. Among the celebrated persons imprisoned here, 
 besides those already named, were : A.D. 1100. Kalph Flambard, the militant Bishop 
 of Durham. 1296. Balliol, King of Scotland, and Scottish chieftains. 1307. Lady 
 Badlesmere, for refusing the queen of Edward II. lodging in her castle of Leeds, Kent. 
 1347. Charles of Blois, and the twelve citizens of Calais with the governor. 1386. 
 Geoffrey Chaucer, said to have here written his Testament of Love. (Chaucer was 
 appointed clerk of the works, July 13, 1389, 13th Eichard II.) 1415. The Duke of 
 Orleans, father of Louis XII., composed here a volume of English poems, which contains 
 the earliest view of the Tower. 1534. John Fisher, Bishop of Rochester ; and Sir 
 Thomas More. 1540. Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex. 1547. The Duke of Norfolk 
 and his son, the poet Earl of Surrey. 
 
 " xxxviij A (Hen. VIII.) Thys yere the xijth day of December the dewke of Nbrffoke and the yerle 
 of Sorre" hys sonne ware comyttyd unto the tower of London, and the dewke went be watter from the 
 lorde chaunselers place in Holborne that was sometyme the byshoppe of Ely's, and soo downe un to the 
 watter syde, and so be watter un to the tower; and hys sonne the yerle of Sorre" went thorrow the cytte 
 of London, makynge grete lamentacion. * * Item the 13. day of Januarij was the yerle of Sorrey browte 
 from the tower of London un to the yelde hallo of London, and there he was from ix. unto yt was v. at 
 nyght, and there had hys judgement to be heddyd ; and soo the xix. day of the same month it was done 
 at the Towre hylle." Chron. Grey Friars of London. 
 
 1553. Cranmer, Latimer, and Ridley. Latimer was also a prisoner here from 1541 to 
 1547. 1554. Sir Thomas Wyat. 1562. The Earl of Southampton, the friend of 
 Shakspeare. 1606.' Guy Fawkes and his fellow-conspirators. 1622. Lord Chancellor 
 Bacon, " a broken reed ;" Sir Edward Coke, a close prisoner. 1613. Sir Thomas 
 Overbury, supposed to have been poisoned by his gaoler. 1616. The Countess of 
 Somerset,* for Overbury's murder. 1626. " Mr. Moor was sent to the Tower for 
 speaking (in Parliament) out of season ; and Sir William Widdrington and Sir Herbert 
 Price for bringing in candles against the desire of the House." (Dwarris, on Statutes, 
 p. 83.) 1628. Felton, the assassin of the Duke of Buckingham ; Sir John Elliot, 
 second imprisonment ; John Selden. 1641. Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford ; 
 Archbishop Laud, and Bishop Hall. 1648. The pious Jeremy Taylor. 1651. Sir 
 William Davenant, whose life was saved by Milton and Whitelock. 1656. Lucy 
 Barlow, mother of the Duke of Monmouth : she was liberated by Oliver Cromwell. 
 1661. Harrington, who wrote the Oceana. 1679. Viscount Stafford, beheaded 1680. 
 1679. Samuel Pepys, the diarist, suspected of connexion with the Popish Plot ; liberated 
 on bail for 30,0002. 1681. The Earl of Shaftesbury. 1683. William Lord Russell 
 and Algernon Sidney. 1685. James Duke of Monmouth. 1688 (the Revolution). 
 The infamous Lord Jeffreys ; William Penn, for street preaching ; the Seven Bishops. 
 1692. The great Duke of Marlborough. 1712. Sir Robert Walpole, for receiving 
 bribes. 1715. Harley, Earl of Oxford; the Earls of Derwentwater and Nithsdale. 
 1717. William Shippen, " downright Shippen" (Pope). 1722. Bishop Atterbury and 
 the Earl of Orrery. 1746. Lords Kilmarnock, Balmerino, and Lovat. 1760. Earl 
 
 * The Countess of Somerset's "only child, born in the Tower during her imprisonment, and named 
 Anne, after the name of the Queen, in the hopes thereby of propitiating her majesty, was afterwards 
 married to the Duke of Bedford, and was the mother of William Lord Kussell." Amos.
 
 TOWER OF LONDON. 801 
 
 Ferrers, hanged for murder. 1762. Jolm Wilkes ; no charge specified. 1780. Lord 
 George Gordon (Riots). 1794. John Home Tooke, Hardy, Thelwall, Holcroft, and 
 others. 1810. Sir Francis Burdett. 1820. Cato-street conspirators. 
 
 The Constable of the Tower was formerly styled the Constable of London, the 
 Constable of the Sea, and the Constable of the Honour of the Tower; which post was 
 conferred by William I. upon Geoffry de Mandeville, in reward of his services at the 
 battle of Hastings. The Constable, besides his salary, privileges, and perquisites, 
 temp. Edward II. received a custom of 2d. from each person going and returning by 
 the Thames, on a pilgrimage to St. James's shrine. In the reign of Richard II. the 
 Constable received yearly IOOL, with fees from his prisoners, according to their rank, 
 " for the suit of his irons :" of every duke committed, 20Z. : and for irons, earl, 20 
 marks ; baron, 101. ; knight, 100 shillings. The Constable's salary is now a little 
 under 950Z., with an official residence. The great Duke of Wellington was Constable 
 from 1820 to his death in 1852, and was succeeded by Viscount Combermere, at whose 
 death Sir John Fox Burgoyne received the appointment. On taking possession, the 
 new Constable is by the Lord Chamberlain presented with the keys of the fortress, in 
 the name and on behalf of Her Majesty the Queen; the Yeomen Warders, following 
 an ancient custom on such occasions, respond " Amen" in chorus, the troops give a 
 Royal salute and present arms, and the band plays the National Anthem. The Con- 
 stable is then formally presented to the officers of the garrison, and conducted over 
 the armoury. The Lieutenant of the Tower is next in rank to the Constable ; but the 
 duties of both offices are performed by the Deputy -Lieutenant and the Tower Major. 
 Colonel Gurwood, editor of the Duke of Wellington's Despatches, was long Deputy- 
 Lieutenant. The Gentleman Gaoler had the custody and locking-up of the state 
 prisoners. The Teomen Warders, of whom there were forty-five, originally kept 
 watch over the prisoners: in the reign of Edward VI., the Duke of Somerset, in re- 
 turn for the attention and respect they paid him whilst in confinement, procured them, 
 after his liberation, " to be sworne extraordinary of the guard, and to weare the same 
 livery they doe." The old uniform is now only worn on State occasions. The new 
 dress was made in 1858. The old cut is retained, the alterations being in the colour 
 of the cloth and the trimmings. The tunic or frock is of dark blue cloth, with a 
 crown in red cloth on the breast, and V.R. underneath; two bands of red cloth 
 round the sleeves, the same as the skirt. A cloak is supplied for inclement weather. 
 The Yeomen at present number forty-eight: they are old and deserving non-com- 
 missioned officers. 
 
 Locking-up the Tower is an ancient, curious, and stately ceremony. A few minutes 
 before the clock strikes the hour of eleven on Tuesdays and Fridays, twelve the 
 Head Warder (Yeoman Porter), clothed in a long red cloak, bearing a huge bunch of 
 keys, and attended by a brother warder carrying a lantern, appears in front of the 
 main guard-house, and loudly calls out, " Escort keys !" The sergeant of the guard, 
 with five or six men, then turns out and follows him to the " Spur," or outer gate ; 
 each sentry challenging as they pass his post, " Who goes there ?" " Keys." The 
 gates being carefully locked and barred, the procession returns, the sentries exacting the 
 same explanation, and receiving the same answer as before. Arrived once more in 
 front of the main guard-house, the sentry there gives a loud stamp with his foot, and 
 asks, " Who goes there ?" " Keys." " Whose keys ?" " Queen Victoria's keys." 
 " Advance Queen Victoria's keys, and all's well." The Yeoman Porter then exclaims, 
 " God bless Queen Victoria !" The main guard respond, " Amen." The officer on 
 duty gives the word, " Present arms !" the firelocks rattle ; the officer kisses the hilt 
 of his sword ; the escort fall in among their companions ; and the Yeoman Porter 
 marches across the parade alone to deposit the keys in the Lieutenant's Lodgings. 
 The ceremony over, not only is all egress and ingress totally precluded, but even within 
 the walls no one can stir without being furnished with the countersign. 
 
 The Tower has a separate coroner ; and the public have access to the fortress 
 only by sufferance. When Horwood made his Survey of London, 1799, he was 
 denied admission to the Tower; and the refusal is thus recorded upon the map: 
 " The Tower : the internal parts not distinguished, being refused permission to take 
 the survey." 
 
 3
 
 802 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The Tower is extra-parochial ; and in 1851 the population was 882, and the military 
 in barracks 606. 
 
 THE ARMOURIES. The fortress has been the depository of the national arms and 
 accoutrements from the earliest ages of our monarchy ; and writs of various dates 
 enumerate warlike stores contained in or issued from the Tower by " the Keeper of 
 the Arms." In an inventory temp. Edward VI. are mentioned many of the articles 
 in the present collection ; and Hentzner describes the Armouries in the reign of Eliza- 
 beth as one of the sights of London. 
 
 The Horse Armoury, 150 feet long, is on the south side of the White Tower, and 
 was built in 1826, when it was arranged by Sir Samuel Meyrick. In the centre is a 
 line of twenty-two equestrian figures, in the armour of various reigns from Edward I. 
 to James II. Over each figure is a crimson banner bearing the name and time of the 
 king or knight represented by the efBgy below j but only a few of the armours have 
 been actually worn by the persons to whom they are assigned. Around the room are 
 ranged other figures in armour, interspersed with military trophies and emblems ; be- 
 sides other mounted figures ; arms of different ages ; helmets, cuirasses, shields, &c. ; 
 and on the ceiling are displayed obsolete arms and accoutrements in fanciful devices. 
 The equestrian figures are of the time of 
 
 Edward I. (1272). Suit of a hauberk, with sleeves and chaussees, and a hood with camail; square- 
 topped shield; prick-spurs; surcoat andbaudric, modern. 
 
 Henry VI. (1450). Back and breast plates of flexible armour ; chain-mail sleeves and skirt ; fluted 
 gauntlets ; helmet a la Cade, with a frontlet and surmounting crest ; the horse housing emblazoned 
 with the arms of France and England; fluted chauffron. 
 
 Edward IV. (1465). Tournament suit, with tilting lance; war-saddle, somewhat later; horse 
 housings, black, powdered with the king's badges the wttite rose and sun; a spiked chauffron on 
 horse's nead. 
 
 Knight, temp. Richard III. (1483-1485). Eibbed German armour; tilting apparel and original tilting 
 lance : this suit was worn at the Eglinton Tournament by the Marquis of Waterford. 
 
 Knight, temp. Henry VII. (1485-1509). Fluted (German) suit ; burgonet helmet. Suit of fluted 
 armour of the same reign; ancient sword, battle-axe, and war-saddle; horse armour fluted, and only 
 wanting the flanchards. 
 
 Henry VIII. (1520). Damasked armour actually worn by this king. Two suits of the same reign, 
 worn by Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, and Edward Clinton, Earl of Lincoln. In a recess is " one of 
 the most curiout suite of armour in the world," of German workmanship, once gilt, and made to comme- 
 morate the marriage of Henry VIII. and Katherine of Arragon: it is most elaborately engraved with 
 the rose and pomegranate^ portcullis, fleurs-de-lis, and red dragon; "H. K.," united by a true-lover's- 
 knot ; saintly legends, mottoes, &c. 
 
 Edward VI. (1552). Russet armour, covered with beautiful filagree-work ; burgonet helmet; horse 
 armour complete, embossed with the combined badges of Burgundy and Granada. 
 
 Francis Hastings, Earl of Huntingdon (1555). Eichly gilt suit, with indented slashes; weight of 
 body armour exceeds 100 Ibs. 
 
 Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester (1560). Tilting suit actually worn by Leicester, temp. Elizabeth : 
 it bears the initials " K. D.," and the earl's cognizance of the bear and ragged staff: this suit " was kept 
 in the tilt-yard, where it was exhibited on particular days" (Meyrick). 
 
 Sir Henry Lea (1570). Suit of plate. 
 
 Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex (1581). Suit of armour, richly engraved and gilt ; burgonet helmet. 
 This armour was worn by the King's Champion at the coronation of George II. 
 
 James I. (1605). Plain suit of tilting armour. Of the same period are the suits of cap-a-pie armour 
 assigned to Sir Horace Vere, and Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel. 
 
 Henry Prince of Wales (1612). Richly-gilt suit made for the prince; engraved with battles, 
 sieges, &c. 
 
 George Villien, Duke of Buckingham (1618). Full suit of plate. 
 
 Charles Prince of Wales (1620). Suit made for the prince when about twelve years old. 
 
 Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford (1635). Armour continued only to the knees. 
 
 Charles I. (1640). Magnificent suit presented to Charles, when Prince of Wales, by the Armourers' 
 Company of the City of London: it is richly gilt and arabesqned; face is carved by Gibbons. This suit 
 was laid on the coflin of the great Duke of Marlborough, in his funeral procession. 
 
 James II. (1685). Cuirass over a velvet coat; casque and pierced visor: the head was carved by 
 Gibbons, as a portrait of Charles II. 
 
 Here also are : a swordsman (Henry VII.). A man-at-arms and foot-soldier 
 Henry VIII.). " Armour cap-a-pe, rough from the hammer, said to be King Henry ye 
 8ths." Suits belonging to the Princes Henry and Charles, sons of James I. Cavaliers 
 and pikemen (temp. Charles I.). A fragment of " penny plate armour." Magnifi- 
 cent suit of Italian armour, engraved and gilt. Cuirasses from Waterloo. Ancient 
 suits of chain-mail. Halbards,* shields, and helmets. "The Norman Crusader," 
 really an Asiatic suit of mixed chain and plate. Very curious helmets. Pieces of a 
 
 * The halbard remained in use among our troops till within 60 years, and may strll be seen as an 
 official weapon in our courts of justice. The warders of the Tower are still armed with the partisan it 
 is still carried by the watchmen in Denmark.
 
 TOWER OF LONDON. 803 
 
 puffed and engraved suit of armour (temp. Henry VIII.), extremely rare. Ancient 
 German bone saddle, with Teutonic inscription. The " Anticke Headpiece with rames 
 Homes and speckakels on it of Will Somers," jester to Henry VIII. Specimens of 
 hand firearms. Ancient warder's horn, of carved ivory. Chinese military dresses 
 from Chusan. Helmet, helt, straight sword, and scimitars of Tippoo Saib. Concave 
 rondelle with spiked boss, such as is seen in the picture of "Henry the Eighth's Em- 
 barcation at Dover," at Hampton Court. 
 
 Part of a horse armour of cuir louilli, extremely rare and curious. On the columns 
 are groups of arms now in use among continental powers ; arms employed in England 
 from the time of James II. to the present reign ; and projects for the improvement 
 of war implements. 
 
 Here are celts ; ancient British axes, swords, and spears, of bronze (one axe found 
 near Hastings, supposed temp. Harold) ; a British battle-axe found in the Thames in 
 1829 ; Roman spear-head ; Saxon daggers and battle-axes. 
 
 At the top of the stairs are two rudely-carved wood figures, " Gin" and " Beer," 
 from over the buttery of the old palace at Greenwich. A very curious Indian suit of 
 armour, sent to Charles II. by the Great Mogul. Ten small cannon, presented by the 
 brass-founders of London to Charles II. when a boy. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth's Armoury, cased with wood in the Norman style, is entered at the 
 eastern side of the White Tower : the windows are filled with stained glass, in part 
 ancient. Here is an equestrian figure of Elizabeth, in a fac simile of the robe worn 
 by her on going to St. Paul's to return thanks. The weapons collected here were 
 brought originally from " The Spanish Weapon House," and were long called " The 
 Spanish Armoury," misinterpreted as the spoils of the Spanish Armada. These 
 weapons were mostly used temp. Henry VIII. and Elizabeth. The collection of spears 
 is interesting. Here is the Morning-star, or Holy-water (blood) Sprinkle, a spiked 
 ball on a pole, used by infantry from the Conquest till temp. Henry VIII. The walls 
 are hung with early shields. Two bows of yew, from the wreck of the Mary Ease, 
 1545 ; early kite shield ; two cross-hilted swords, temp. Crusaders, authentic and rare. 
 Thumb-screws, or thumbikins ; the " Iron Coller of Torment, taken from y Spanyard 
 in y* yeare 1588 ;" the iron Cravat, " Scavenger's or Skeffi ngton's Daughter." Ancient 
 Cresset, with spear-head. Mace-cannon, carried at the saddle-bow. Long-pikes and 
 boar-spears, in the Tower temp. Edward VI. Large pavoise, or archer's shield. " Great 
 Holly-water Sprincle, with three gonnes in the top." Spontoon of the guard of 
 Henry VIII. Guisarrnes and glaives, partisans, lances, pikes, and halbards. On the 
 floor is the heading-axe with which the Earl of Essex was executed, temp. Elizabeth. 
 Heading-block on which Lords Balmerino, Kilmarnock, and Lovat were decapitated 
 on Tower-hill, in 1746. The money received for admission to the Armouries is ex- 
 pended in adding to the collection ; thus, in 1853, a beautiful suit of Greek armour, 
 found in a tomb at Cuma?, was purchased for 2001. : it is shown in the Horse 
 Armoury. 
 
 Among the Curiosities mentioned by Hatton, 1708, is the sword which Lord 
 Kingsale took from a French guard, for which he and his posterity have the favour of 
 being covered in the king's presence. On the stairs is part of the keel of the Royal 
 George, sunk in 1782. 
 
 In the Ante-room added to Queen Elizabeth's Armoury, fitted up in 1581, from the 
 plan of Mr. Stacey, Ordnance Storekeeper, are a group of cannon from Waterloo, two 
 kettle-drums from Blenheim ; and specimens, ancient and modern, of every description 
 of weapon now in the Tower. Here are also the sword and sash of Field Marshal the 
 Duke of York ; and General Wolfe's cloak, on which he died before Quebec. In the 
 centre of the room is a beautifully ornamented bronze gun. Here are two large brass 
 guns taken at Quebec by General Wolfe, a stand of cross-bows, and four figures in 
 armour. In the western compartment are chiefly oriental arms and armotrr : suit of 
 chain-mail (reputed Bajazet, 1401) ; Asiatic iron boot ; Saracenic and Indian armour ; 
 memorials from Tippoo Saib's armour ; collection of Chinese armour ; brass gun taken 
 from the Chinese in 1842, inscribed, " RICHABD : PHILIPS : MADE : THIS : PECE : 
 AN : DNI : 1601 ;" arms from Kaffraria ; hempen armour from the South Seas ; New 
 Zealand implements, and chiefs robe ; rich Indian and Moorish arms and accoutre- 
 
 3 F 2
 
 804 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 ments, from the Great Exhibition of 1851 : and a cabinet of oriental armour, 
 weapons, horse-furniture, &c., presented by the Hon. East India Company. Here 
 is the large anchor taken at Camperdown by Admiral Duncan. In 1854 were added 
 2000 stands of arms from Bomarsund, the first spoils of the Russian war. 
 
 Outside the White Tower, on the south-east, are : an ancient gun for stone shot ; two 
 brass guns, temp. Henry VII. and Henry VIII. ; French, Spanish, and Chinese guns ; 
 guns from the wreck of the Royal George ; and several mortars, including one of 18 
 inches, used at the siege of Namur by William III. 
 
 Mr. Hewitt's work, already mentioned, is by far the most accurate and illustrative 
 Guide-book to the Tower Armouries. 
 
 THE REGALIA, OB CKOWN JEWELS, have been exhibited to the public for a fee 
 since the Eestoration of Charles II. They had been previously kept sometimes in the 
 Tower, in the Treasury of the Temple or other religious house, and in the Treasury at 
 Westminster. The Royal Jewels were several times pledged to provide for the exi- 
 gencies of our monarchs : by Henry III., Edward III., Henry V., Henry VI. ; and 
 Richard II. offered them to the merchants of London as a guarantee for a loan. The 
 office of Keeper of the Regalia, conferred by the king's letters patent, became in the 
 reigns of the Tudors a post of great emolument and dignity, and " the Master of the 
 Jewel-house" took rank as the first Knight Bachelor of England : the office was some- 
 time held by Cromwell, afterwards Earl of Essex. During the civil war under Charles I. 
 the Regalia were sold and destroyed.* On the Restoration of Charles II. new Regalia 
 were made, for which was paid to the king's goldsmith, Sir Robert Vyner, 21,978Z. 9*. lid. 
 (Treasury Order, 20th June, 1662.) The emoluments of the Master of the Jewel- 
 house were now so reduced, that Sir Gilbert Talbot obtained permission to show the 
 Regalia to strangers for a fee j which proved so profitable, that Sir Gilbert, upon the 
 death of his servant who showed the jewels, was offered 500 gold broad-pieces for the 
 place. In this reign, May 9, 1671, Colonel Blood made his daring attempt to carry 
 off " the crown, globe, and sceptre." The Regalia were then kept in a strong vaulted 
 chamber of the Martin Tower, and were shown behind strong iron bars : through 
 these, in 1815, a woman forced her hands and tore the royal crown to pieces. The 
 Regalia were next shown at one view by the light of six argand lamps, with powerful 
 reflectors. 
 
 In 1842, a new Jewel-house was built in the late Tudor style, south of the Martin 
 Tower : where the Regalia are shown upon a pyramidal stand, enclosed within plate- 
 glass ; and over the whole is an open iron frame, or cage, of Tudor design, surmounted 
 by a regal crown of iron. 
 
 The Regalia are : St. Edward's Crown, or the ancient Imperial Crown, made 
 temp. Charles II., to replace that said to have been worn by Edward the Confessor : 
 and with which the Sovereign is crowned at the altar. This is the crown which Blood 
 stole : the arches, flowers, and fillets are covered with large multi-coloured jewels j and 
 the purple velvet cap is faced with ermine. 
 
 Prof. Tennant, F.G.S., thus describes her Majesty's State Crown : 
 
 " The Imperial State Crown of Her Majesty Queen Victoria was made by Messrs. Bundell and Bridge 
 in the year 1838, with jewels taken from old Crowns, and others furnished by command of her Majesty. 
 It consists of diamonds, pearls, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, set in silver and gold ; it has a crimson 
 velvet cap, with ermine border, and is lined with white silk. Its gross weight is 39 oz. 6 dwts. Troy. 
 The lower part of the band, above the ermine border, consists of a row of one hundred and twenty-nine 
 pearls, and the upper part of the band a row of one hundred and twelve pearls, between which, in front 
 of the Crown, is a large sapphire (partly drilled), purchased for the Crown by His Majesty King George 
 the Fourth. At the back is a sapphire of smaller size, and six other sapphires (three on each side), 
 between which are eight emeralds. Above and below the seven sapphires are fourteen diamonds, and 
 around the eight emeralds one hundred and twenty-eight diamonds. Between the emeralds and 
 sapphires are sixteen trefoil ornaments, containing one hundred and sixty diamonds. Above the band 
 are eight sapphires surmounted by eight diamonds, between which are eight festoons consisting of one 
 hundred and forty-eight diamonds. In the front of the Crown, and in the centre of a diamond Maltese 
 cross, is the famous ruby said to have been given to Edward Prince of Wales, son of Edward III., 
 called the Black Prince, by Don Pedro, King of Castile, after the battle of Najera, near Vittoria, A.D. 
 1367. This ruby was worn in the helmet of Henry V. at the battle of Agincourt, A.D. 1415. It is pierced 
 quite through after the Eastern custom, the upper part of the piercing being filled up by a small ruby. 
 Around this ruby, to form the cross, are seventy-five brilliant diamonds. Three other Maltese crosses, 
 forming the two sides and back of the Crown, have emerald centres, and contain respectively one 
 
 The State Crown of Charles I., found in the upper Jewel-house, contained 71bs. 7oz. of gold: in 
 one of thejleurs-ie-lit was " a picture of the Virgin Mary."
 
 TOWER OF LONDON. 805 
 
 hundred and thirty-two, one hundred and twenty-four, and one hundred and thirty brilliant diamonds. 
 Between the four Maltese crosses are four ornaments in the form of the French fleur-de-lis, with four 
 rubies in the centres, and surrounded by rose diamonds, containing respectively eighty-five, eighty-six, 
 eighty-six, and eighty-seven rose diamonds. From the Maltese crosses issue four imperial arches com- 
 posed of oak leaves and acorns ; the leaves containing seven hundred and twenty-eight rose, table, and 
 brilliant diamonds; thirty-two pearls forming the acorns, set in cups containing fifty-four rose diamonds 
 and one table diamond. The total number of diamonds in the arches and acorns is one hundred and 
 eight brilliant, one hundred and sixteen table, and five hundred and fifty-nine rose diamonds. From 
 the upper part of the arches are suspended four large pendant pear-shaped pearls, with rose diamond 
 caps, containing twelve rose diamonds, and stems containing twenty-four very small rose diamonds. 
 Above the arch stands the mound, containing in the lower hemisphere three hundred and four brilliants, 
 and in the upper two hundred and forty-four brilliants ; the zone and arc being composed of thirty-three 
 rose diamonds. The cross on the summit has a rose-cut sapphire in the centre, surrounded by four 
 large brilliants, and one hundred and eight smaller brilliants. Summary of Jewels comprised in the 
 Crown: 1 large ruby irregularly polished ; 1 large broad-spread sapphire; 16 sapphires; 11 emeralds; 
 4 rubies; 1363 brilliant diamonds; 1273 rose diamonds; 147 table diamonds; 4 drop-shaped pearls; 
 273 pearls." 
 
 There are correct woodcuts of the crown, by S. Williams, in Britton's Dictionary of 
 Architecture, and Sharp's Peerage. Haydon, in his Autobiography (1830), vol. ii. 
 p. 236, has this odd entry as to the crown of George IV. : 
 
 " The Crown at the Coronation was not bought, but borrowed. Eundell's price was 70,0007. ; and 
 Lord Liverpool told the King he could not sanction such an expenditure. Eundell charged 70001. for 
 the loan; and as some time elapsed before it was decided whether the crown should be bought or not, 
 Eundell charged 30001. or 40001. more for the interval." 
 
 The Prince of Wales's Crown, of pure gold, plain, without jewels : it is placed upon 
 a velvet cushion, in the House of Lords, before the seat of the Heir Apparent, when 
 Her Majesty opens or prorogues Parliament ; for which occasions it is conveyed with 
 the imperial crown of the sovereign from the Tower, by the Keeper of the Jewel-office, 
 attended by warders, in a coach. The Queen Consort's Crown, of gold, set with 
 diamonds, pearls, and other jewels; made for the queen of William III. The Queen's 
 Diadem, or Circlet of Gold, made for the coronation of Maria d'Este, consort of 
 James II., at the cost of 111,OOOZ. (Sandford) : it is set with diamonds, and sur- 
 mounted with a string of pearls. St. Edward's Staff, of beaten gold, 4 feet 7 inches 
 in length ; surmounted by an orb and cross, and shod with a steel spike ; the orb is 
 said to contain a fragment of the true Cross. The staff weighs 9 Ibs. The Royal 
 Sceptre, or Sceptre with the Cross, of gold : the pommel is set with rubies, emeralds, 
 and diamonds ; the fleurs-de-lis have been replaced by the rose, shamrock, and thistle, 
 in gold ; and the cross is covered with jewels, and has a large centre table-diamond. 
 The Rod of Equity, or Sceptre with the Dove, of gold, 3 feet 7 inches long, is set 
 with diamonds, &c., and is surmounted with an orb, banded with rare diamonds, sup- 
 porting a Jerusalem cross, on which is a gold dove with expanded wings. The Queen's 
 Sceptre and Cross, ornamented with large diamonds; made for the coronation of 
 Mary, Queen of William III. The Queen's Ivory Sceptre, made for Maria d'Este, 
 mounted in gold, and bearing a golden cross, and a dove of white onyx : it is some- 
 times miscalled Queen Anne Boleyn's. An ancient Sceptre, found behind the wains- 
 coting of the old Jewel-office in 1814 : it is set with jewels, and is supposed to have 
 belonged to Mary, Queen of William III. The Orb, of gold, 6 inches in diameter ; 
 the bands are set with precious stones and roses of diamonds, and edged with pearls ; 
 a very large amethyst supports the gold cross, set with diamonds, &c. The Queen's 
 Orb, resembling the former, but of smaller dimensions. The Sword of Mercy, or 
 Curtana, of steel, but pointless ; ornamented with gold. The Swords of Justice, 
 Ecclesiastical and Temporal. The Armillce, or Coronation Bracelets, of gold, chased 
 with the rose, fleur-de-lis, and harp, and edged with pearls. The Royal Spurs, of 
 curiously wrought gold : they are used at the coronation of king or queen. The 
 Ampulla, of pure gold, in the form of an eagle; is used at coronations for the holy oil, 
 which is poured from the beak into the Gold Anointing Spoon, supposed to be the 
 only relic of the ancient Regalia; its date is about the 12th century. The Ampulla is 
 said to have been brought from Sens Abbey, in France, by Thomas & Becket. The 
 Gold Saltcellar of State, set with jewels, and chased with grotesque figures, is in the 
 form of a round castle, and has been miscalled " a Model of the White Tower :" it has 
 a central turret, and four at the angles, the tops of which are removed for the salt ; 
 around the base are curious figures. It was presented to the crown by the City of 
 Exeter, and was last used at the coronation banquet of George IV. The Baptismal
 
 806 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Font, silver-gilt, elaborately chased, and formerly used at the christening of the Royal 
 Family, hut superseded by a new font of picturesque design. A large Silver Wine 
 Fountain, presented by the Corporation of Plymouth to Charles II.; 12 Golden, 
 Saltcellars, chased ; two massive gold " Coronation Tankards ;" the Banqueting Dish, 
 Gold Spoons, and other Coronation Plate. Also, a Service of Sacramental Plate, one 
 dish bearing a fine alto relievo of the Last Supper ; used at Coronations, and in the 
 chapel of St. Peter in the Tower. 
 
 Admission daily (Sundays excepted), to the Armouries, Gd. each person ; and to see 
 the Regalia, 6d. each ; in parties of twelve, conducted by a warder, every half-hour, 
 from 12 to 4 o'clock inclusive. 
 
 TOWER EOYAL, 
 
 A SHORT street or lane between St. Antholin's Church, Watling-street, and the 
 south end of St. Thomas Apostle, was removed in 1853-4, in forming New 
 Cannon-street West. It occupied the site of a building stated by Stow to have 
 anciently belonged to the kings of England, as early as Stephen ; but it was sub- 
 sequently discastled, and held as a tenement by one Simon of Beauvais, surgeon to 
 Edward I. Mr. Hudson Turner states it to be invariably called in early records 
 la Seal, la Riole, or la Ryle or Ryole, but not a tower; and he could not find it 
 occupied by royalty until Edward III., in 1331, granted it to his queen Philippa as a 
 depository for her wardrobe ; by whom la Real was externally repaired, if not rebuilt. 
 In 1370, Edward bestowed it upon the canons of St. Stephen's, Westminster ; but it 
 reverted to the Crown, and was called "the Queen's Wardrobe" in the reign of 
 Richard II. It was a place of strength ; and the king's mother fled here for shelter 
 when Wat Tyler had seized the Tower of London. Leon III., King of Armenia, when 
 driven from his kingdom by the Turks, was lodged and entertained in Tower Royal by 
 Richard II., in 1386. It was granted by Richard III. to the first Duke of Norfolk of 
 the Howard family, as entered in that king's ledger-book. In Stow's time, Tower 
 Royal had become stabling for the king's horses, and was let in tenements : the whola 
 was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. In removing the modem houses upon the 
 site, in 1852, were found the remains of a Roman villa: the earth was interspersed 
 with horns, bones, teeth of goats and oxen ; tusks of boars ; fragments of flanged tiles, 
 scored flue-tiles, amphorae, mortaria, urns, glass vessels, and Samian pottery. Some of 
 these relics are engraved in the Illustrated London News f No. 554. 
 
 TREASURY AND OTHER GOVERNMENT OFFICES. 
 
 ON the west side of Whitehall are the Government Offices : the ADMIRALTY (see 
 p. 2) ; HORSE GUARDS (p. 434). In 1724, 600 planks of mahogany were brought 
 from Jamaica for the inner doors and tables of the Admiralty ; and, judging by the way 
 in which the wood is mentioned in the public papers, it was evidently far from well 
 known. 
 
 THE TREASURY occupies a portion of the site of Whitehall Palace. To make way for 
 the north wing, the last portion of old York House was taken down in 1846 : it had 
 been refronted, but the Tudor doorway was ancient. The principal Treasury building, 
 however, faces the parade-ground, St. James's Park : it was built by Kent, in 1733, 
 and consists of three stories, Tuscan, Doric, and Ionic. The Whitehall front consists of 
 the Treasury, Board of Trade, and Privy Council Offices; designed by Barry, R.A., 
 in 1846-8, partly in place of Sir John Soane's fa$ade (the centre and south wing), 
 decorated with three-quarter columns from those of the Campo Vaccino at Rome. 
 Soane's exterior, exposed to the criticism of every passenger, was much censured ; 
 " whilst the interior, in which the skill and taste of the architect are most manifest, and 
 particularly the Council Chamber, is but little seen, and known only to a few persons." 
 (Sritton.) Barry's design consists of a long series of attached Corinthian columns on 
 rusticated piers, and carrying a highly-enriched entablature and frieze ; the attics have 
 carved drops of fruit and flowers, and the balustrade carries urn-shaped vases : the-
 
 TREASURY AND OTHER GOVERNMENT OFFICES. 807 
 
 whole facade is 296 feet long. The Council Office occupies the site of the old Tennis- 
 court of the Palace. See the print (temp. Charles II.) in Pennant's London, 5th edit. 
 At the Cockpit died General Monk, Duke of Albemarle, 4th Jan. 1670; and in the 
 same month his duchess, Nan Clarges. Queen Anne, when Princess of Denmark, fled 
 down the back stairs, in 1688, to join her father's enemies, Lord Dorset and Bishop 
 Compton riding on each side of the hackney-coach as an escort. Hatton, in 1708, de- 
 scribes the Treasury Office kept at the Cockpit, " where the Lord High Treasurer sits 
 to receive petitions, and give orders, warrants, &c." Here, March 8, 1711, Guiscard 
 attempted to stab with a penknife Harley, Earl of Oxford, but was struck down by 
 the swords of Lord Paulet and Mr. St. John. The Cockpit itself occupied nearly the 
 site of the present Board of Trade Office, and it existed early in the present century : 
 the King's speech was read " at the Cockpit" on the day before it was delivered at 
 the opening of the Session of Parliament; and the discontinuance of this practice 
 was much complained of by the Opposition. The term " Given at the Cockpit at 
 Westminster" was in use within the writer's recollection. The Lord High Treasurer 
 formerly carried a staff of office (see the portrait of the great Lord Burghley) ; and 
 he sat in a needlework chair, which is preserved at the Office of the Comptroller of the 
 Exchequer, Whitehall-yard. " The sovereign occasionally presided at the Board of 
 Treasury until the accession of George III. ; and the royal throne still remains at the 
 head of the table." (Notes by F. S. Thomas, Record Office.) The Board of Treasury 
 has long ceased to manage the revenue. An interesting series of Treasury Minutes, 
 from 1667 to 1834, is appended to the " Seventh Report of the Deputy-Keeper of the 
 Public Records." 
 
 Some curious relics of the ancient Royal Treasury at Westminster are preserved. Among these are 
 a skippet, or turned box, of the time of Edward III., and a smaller hamper, or hanaper of twyggys, of 
 the succeeding reign. Both were used for the preservation of title-deeds of the Crown. The skippets 
 were packed away in an outside chest, or forcer, a cist, or coffer, of all which specimens have been 
 found in the Pyx Chamber, at Westminster ; the storehouse of the Royal Treasury, from the period 
 when the reigning Sovereign occupied the palace close at hand. The forcer is nearly round, made of 
 stout leather, bound with small bars of iron ; the cist is also iron-bound. The Royal plate and jewels 
 were usually deposited in the former. In the reign of Edward I. the Treasury was plundered of these 
 valuables, in addition to 100,0001., upwards of 2,000,OOOZ. of our present money. 
 
 Next is Downing-street, " between King-street E. and no thorow fair West." (Hatton). 
 It was named from Sir George Downing, Bart., a political " sider with all times and 
 changes," who, after serving Cromwell, became Secretary to the Treasury under 
 Charles II., 1667. At the Revolution, the property, then belonging to Lee, Lord 
 Lichfield, was forfeited to the Crown. The largest house was, temp. George I., the 
 office of the Hanoverian minister, Baron Bothmar, at whose death the mansion was 
 given by the King to Sir Robert Walpole, who, in 1735, would only accept it for his 
 office of First Lord of the Treasury, to which post he got it annexed for ever." (JILdes 
 Walpoliance.) It has accordingly since been the official residence of successive prime 
 ministers : here Lady Hester Stanhope received Mr. Pitt's guests : but the rooms are 
 ill adapted for State assemblies. The adjoining house was purchased within the 
 present century, for the Foreign Office, Colonial Office, and Office of the Chancellor of 
 the Exchequer. To this cul-de-sac a street of smaller houses was added : the south side 
 was taken down in 1828 : at the corner next King-street was the noted Cat and 
 Bagpipes, used as a chop-house in early life by George Rose, subsequently Secretary 
 of the Treasury, and the originator of Savings-banks. See " The Last Days of 
 Downing-street," in Walks and Talks about London, 1865. 
 
 In one of the above mansions, in 1763, died Aubrey de Vere, last Earl of Oxford. In the street 
 lived, in 1723, John Boyle, Karl of Orrery, the friend of Swift, and contributor to The World and 
 Connoisseur. Here resided Boswell, the biographer of Johnson; and Lord Sheffield, the friend of 
 Gibbon, the historian. In the Colonial Office, No. 14 in the street, in a small waiting-room on the 
 right hand as you entered, the Duke of Wellington then Sir Arthur Wellesley and Lord Nelson, 
 both waiting to see the Secretary of State, met the only time in their lives. The Duke knew Nelson 
 from his pictures; Lord Nelson did not know the Duke, but was so struck with his conversation, that 
 he stept out of the room to inquire who he was. Mr. Cunningham relates this meeting, which has 
 been painted and engraved. 
 
 The new Government Offices, commenced in 1863, are in course of erection, 
 and are to include the Foreign Office, the India Office, the Colonial Office, and the 
 Navy Office ; the whole to form a large quadrangle, fronting St. James' -park, and 
 Parliament-street. The architecture will be of Italianized character; the various
 
 803 
 
 fronts will display a large amount of characteristic sculpture. The India Office was so 
 far completed as to have been the site of a magnificent fete given to the Sultan of 
 Turkey, in the summer of 1867. 
 
 TRINITY SOUSE, 
 
 T1RINITY-SQUARE, on the north side of Tower Hill, was built by Samuel Wyatt, 
 -L 1793-5, for the ancient guild founded by Sir Thomas Spert, commander of the 
 great ship Harry Grace de Dieu, and Comptroller of the Navy to King Henry VIII., 
 and incorporated 1515. It was then a guild or fraternity of mariners of England for 
 the encouragement of the science of Navigation ; and was first empowered to build 
 lighthouses and erect beacons by an Act passed in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. 
 Before the charter of Henry VIII. the society was of a purely monastic character, and 
 had been established for kindred but comparatively limited purposes. The office of 
 the Master of the Corpoi'ation at various times has been held by princes and statesmen. 
 From 1816, when Lord Liverpool occupied the office of Master, it was held in suc- 
 cession by the Marquis Camden, the Duke of Clarence, afterwards William IV. ; 
 Marquis Camden again, the Duke of Wellington, the Prince Consort, and Viscount 
 Palmerston; the present Master, the Duke of Edinburgh a period of half a century. 
 The Corporation has in charge the lighthouses and sea-marks, and the licensing of 
 pilots, tonnage, ballastage, beaconage, &c., producing about 300,OOOZ. a year; the net 
 revenue, about one-fourth, is principally expended in maintaining poor disabled seamen 
 and their widows and orphans, by pensions, in the Corporation hospitals at Deptfbrd- 
 Strond ; which the Master, Deputy-Master, and Brethren visit in their state-yacht, in 
 grand procession, on Trinity Monday. A state banquet has been given annually since 
 the Restoration, when there is a fine display of the ancient plate, some more than 250 
 years old. The Trinity House is of the Ionic order; upon its principal front are 
 sculptured the arms of the Corporation, medallions of George III. and Queen 
 Charlotte; \genii with nautical instruments; the four principal lighthouses on the 
 coast, &c. The interior has busts of Vincent, Nelson, Howe, and Duncan ; W. Pitt 
 and Capt. J. Cotton, by Chantrey; George III., by Turnerelli, &c. The Court-room 
 is decorated with impersonations of the Thames, Medvvay, Severn, and Humber ; and 
 among the pictures is a large painting, 20 feet long, by Gainsborough, of the Elder 
 Brethren of the Trinity House. In the Board-room are portraits of James I. and II., 
 Elizabeth, Anne of Denmark, Earl Craven, Sir Francis Drake, Sir J. Leake, and 
 General Monk ; King William IV., the Prince Consort, and the Duke of Wellington, 
 three of the past Masters ; and George III., Queen Charlotte, and Queen Adelaide. 
 The Museum is noticed at p. 605. The arms of the Corporation are, a cross between 
 four ships under sail. 
 
 The present is the third House built for the Corporation : the first was destroyed in 
 the Great Fire of 1666. Pepys records : " Sept. 4, 1 after supper walked in the dark 
 down to Tower-street, and there saw it all on fire ; at the Trinity House on that side, 
 and the Dolphin Tavern on this side." The second House was erected in Water-lane 
 in 1671, and is described by Hatton as " a stately building of brick and stone, and 
 adorned with ten oustos." 
 
 TYBURN AND "TYBURN TREE." 
 
 was anciently a manor and village west of London, on the Tylourn or 
 -I- brook, subsequently the WestJowrw, the western boundary of the district, now 
 incorporated in the parish of Paddington. This stream (within memory a favourite 
 resort of anglers) is shown descending from the high ground about Hampstead in the 
 maps by Saxton, 1579; Speede, 1610; Seller, 1733; in Morden's and Seales's, and in 
 Rocque's surveys. Upon its bank was the place of execution for criminals convicted 
 in London and Middlesex as early as 1196, when William Fitzosbert, or Longbeard, 
 was executed at Tyburn, as we learn from Roger de Wendover. In 1330, Roger de 
 Mortimer was " drawn and hanged" at " the Elms," described by Holinshed as " now
 
 TYBURN AND " TYBURN TREE." 809 
 
 Tiborne ;" and Elms-lane, Bayswater, is pointed out to this day where the fatal elm 
 grew, and the gentle Tiborne ran : 
 
 " Then fatal carts through Holborn seldom went, 
 And Tyburn with few pilgrims was content." Oldham's Satire, 1682. 
 
 Elms-lane is the first opening on the right hand after getting into the Uxbridge-road from the 
 Grand-Junction-road, opposite the head of the Serpentine ; the Serpentine itself being formed in the 
 bed of the ancient stream, first called Tybourn, then Westbourn, then Ranelagh Sewer; while the 
 stream which crossed Oxford-street, west of Stratford-place, first bore the name of Eyebourn, then 
 Tybourn, then King's Scholars' Poiid. Eobins's Paddington, 1853, p. 8. 
 
 The gallows, " Tyburn-tree," was a triangle upon three legs, and is so described 
 in the 16th and 17th centuries. If Mr. Robins's location of the gibbet be correct, it 
 was subsequently changed ; for in the lease of the house No. 49, Connaught-square 
 (granted by the Bishop of London), the gallows is stated to have stood upon that spot. 
 
 In 1811, Dr. Lewis, of Half Moon-street, Piccadiljy, was about to erect some houses in Connaught- 
 place (Nos. 6 to 12, 1 think), and during the excavation for foundations a quantity of human bones was 
 lound, with parts of wearing apparel attached thereto. A good many of the bones, say a cart-load, 
 were taken away by order of Dr. Lewis, and buried in a pit dug for the purpose in Connaught-mews. 
 Communication, by Mr. Charles Lane, to the Times, May 16, 1860. 
 
 Smith (Hist. St. Mary-le-Bone) states the gallows to have been for many years a 
 standing fixture on a small eminence at the corner of the Edgware-road, near the turn- 
 pike, on the identical spot where a tool-house was subsequently erected by the Uxbridge- 
 road Trust. Beneath this place lie the bones of Bradshaw, Ireton, and other regicides, 
 which were taken from their graves after the Restoration, and are stated to have been 
 buried under the gallows. 
 
 On May 7, 1860, in the course of some excavation connected with the repair of a pipe in the road- 
 way, close to the foot pavement along the garden of Arklow House, the residence of Mr. A. J. B. 
 Beresford Hope, at the extreme south-west angle of the Edsreware-road, the workmen came upou 
 numerous human bones, obviously the remains of the unhappy persons buried under the gallows. Com- 
 municated by Mr. Hope to the Times, May 9, 1860. 
 
 The gallows subsequently consisted of two uprights and a cross-beam, erected on the 
 morning of execution across the roadway, opposite the house at the corner of 
 Upper Bryanston-street and the Edgware-road, wherein the gibbet was deposited 
 after being used ; and this house had curious iron balconies to the windows of the 
 first and second floors, where the sheriffs attended the executions. After the place 
 of execution was changed to Newgate in 1783, the gallows was bought by a carpenter, 
 and made into stands for beer-butts in the cellars of the Carpenters' Arms public-house, 
 hard by. Formerly, when a person prosecuted for any offence, and the prisoner was 
 executed at Tyburn, the prosecutor was presented with a ticket which exempted him 
 from serving either on juries or any parochial business ; by virtue of the Act 10 and 11 
 Will. III. This Act was repealed by 58 Geo. III. Mr. George Phillips, of Charlotte- 
 street, Bloomsbury, was the last individual who received the Tyburn ticket, for a 
 burglary committed by two housebreakers on his premises. In the autumn of 1856, 
 however, Mr. Pratt, armourer, of Bond-street, claimed and obtained exemption from 
 serving on an Old Bailey jury by reason of his possession of a Tyburn ticket ; the 
 judge probably not remembering the Act which repealed the privileges of the holders 
 of Tyburn tickets. 
 
 Around the gibbet (" the fatal retreat for the unfortunate brave") were erected 
 open galleries like a race-course stand, wherein seats were let to spectators at 
 executions : the key of one of them was kept by Mammy Douglas, " the Tyburn pew- 
 opener." In 1758, when Dr. Henesey was to have been executed for treason, the 
 prices of seats rose to 2*. and 2s. 6d. ; but the doctor being " most provokingly re- 
 prieved," a riot ensued, and most of the seats were destroyed. The criminals were 
 conveyed thither from Newgate : 
 
 "thief and parson in a Tyburn cart." Prologue by Dryden, 16S2. 
 
 The oldest existing representation of the Tyburn gallows is in a German print in 
 the Crowle Pennant, in the British Museum ; wherein Henrietta-Maria, queen of 
 Charles I., is kneeling in penance beneath the triple tree : it is moonlight ; the 
 confessor is seated in the royal coach, drawn by six horses ; and at the coach-door is a 
 servant bearing a torch. The "pore queene," it is stated, walked afoot (some say
 
 810 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 barefoot) from St. James's to Tyburn, to do homage to the saintship of some recently 
 executed papists : but this is denied by the Marshal de Bassompierre ; the above print 
 is of later date than 1628, the year of the reputed pilgrimage, and its authenticity is 
 disbelieved. 
 
 Memorable Execution! at Tyburn. 1330 (4th Edw. III.), Roger de Mortimer, for treason ; 1388 
 (12th Richard II.), Judge Tresilian and Sir N. Brembre, treason; 1499 (14th Hen. VII.), Perkin 
 Warheck was executed here for plotting his escape from the Tower; 1534 (24th Hen. VIII.), the Holy 
 Maid of Kent and her confederates; 1535, the last Prior of the Carthusian Monastery (Charter House) ; 
 1595, Robert Southwell, Elizabethan sacred poet ; 1615, Mrs. Turner, hanged in a yellow-starched ruff, for 
 the poisoning of Sir Thomas Overbury ; 1628, John Felton, assassin of Villiers, Duke of Buckingham ; 
 1660-1 (Jan. 30), the first anniversary of the execution of Charles I. after the Restoration : the dis- 
 interred bodies of Oliver Cromwell, Ireton, and Bradshaw hung in their shrouds and cerecloths at each 
 angle of Tyburn gallows till sunset, when they were taken down and beheaded, and the bodies buried 
 under the gallows, the heads being set on Westminster Hall ; 1660-62, five persons who had signed the 
 death-warrant of Charles I.; 1684, Sir Thomas Armstrong (Rye House Plot); 1705, John Smith, a 
 burglar, having hung above a quarter of an hour, when a reprieve arrived, he was cut down, and being 
 let blood, came to himself (Ration, 1708). 1724, Jack Sheppard, housebreaker ; 1725, Jonathan Wild, 
 thief and thief-taker; 1726, Catherine Hayes, for the murder of her husband : she was burnt alive, for 
 the indignant mob would not suffer the hangman to strangle her, as usual, before the fire was kindled. 
 1760, Earl Ferrers, for the murder of his steward : he rode from the Tower, wearing his wedding-clothes, 
 in his landau drawn by six horses ; he was indulged with a silken rope, and " the drop" was first used 
 instead of the cart; the executioners fought for the rope, and the mob tore the black cloth from the 
 scaffold as relics ; the landau stood in a coach-house at Acton until it fell to pieces ; and the bill for the 
 silken rope has been preserved. 1767, Mrs. Brownrigg, for murder ; 1774, John Rann (Sixteen-Stringed 
 Jack), highwayman; 1775, the two Perreaus, for forgery; 1777, Rev. Dr. Dodd, forgery; 1779, Rev. 
 James Hackman, assassination of Miss Reay : he was taken from Newgate in a mourning-coach ; 1783, 
 Ryland, the engraver, for forgery; 1783, John Austin, the last person executed at Tyburn. 
 
 The road between St. Giles's Pound and Tyburn gallows was first called Tyburn- 
 road, now Oxford-street ; the lane leading from which to Piccadilly was called 
 Tyburn-lane, now Park-lane. The original turnpike-gate stood close to St. Giles's 
 Pound ; then at Tyburn, removed in 1825 ; then at Winchester-row j next at Pine- 
 apple-place ; and next at Kilburn. Strange have been the mutations in which the 
 rural Tybourn " welled forth away" through pleasant fields to the Town, there 
 became linked with the crimes of centuries, and lost in a murky sewer ; but left its 
 name to Tyburnia, the newly-built city of palaces north-west of Hyde Park. (See 
 PADDINGTON,' p. 563.) 
 
 In 1785, William Capon made a sketch of Tyburn gallows ; and at the foot of a 
 drawing made by him from this sketch, in 1818, are the following notes : 
 
 " View looking across Hyde Park, taken from a one-pair-of-stairs window at the last house at the 
 end of Upper Seymour-street, Edgware-road, facing where Tyburn formerly was. The eastern end 
 of Connaught-place is now built on the very plot of ground, then occupied by a cow-lair, and dust 
 and cinder heaps. The shadow on the right of the Edgware-road is produced by one of the three 
 galleries which were then standing, from which people used to see criminals executed. They were 
 standing in 1785, at which time the original sketch was made from which the picture is done." 
 
 A portion of Tyburn gate exists : 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF LONDON, THE, 
 
 OOMERSET HOUSE, was instituted Nov. 28, 1836, for " rendering academical 
 O honours accessible, without distinction, to every class and every denomination." 
 The University consists of a chancellor, vice-chancellor, and senate ; and graduates. It 
 is solely an examining body, and confers degrees on the graduates of University 
 College and King's College, London; and the colleges not belonging to the other 
 universities ; besides all the medical schools in the empire, and most of the colleges of 
 the Roman Catholics, Baptists, Independents, and Wesleyans. The degrees are con- 
 ferred, and the honours bestowed, in public ; and the senate first met for this purpose 
 on May 1, 1850, in the large hall of King's College, Somerset House ; the Earl of 
 Burlington, Chancellor of the University, presiding. A new edifice was, in 1867, 
 commenced building for the University in the rear of Burlington House.
 
 VAUXHALL GAEDENS. 811 
 
 VAUXHALL GAEDENS, 
 
 FOR nearly two centuries a place of public amusement, was named from its site in the 
 manor of " La Sale Fankes," mentioned in the charter of Isabella de Fortibus, 
 Countess of Auinale and Devon, and Lady of the Isle of Wight, dated in 1293, by 
 which she sold her possessions to King Edward I. In the Testa de Nevill we read, 
 under Surrey : " Baldwin, son and heir of the Earl of the Isle, is in the custody of 
 Fulke de Breaute ; he should be in the ward of the lord the king ; also his lands in 
 the hundred of Brixton, and they are worth 181. per annum." Fulke de Breaute, the 
 celebrated mercenary follower of King John, married Margaret, Earl Baldwin's- 
 mother, and thus obtained the wardship of her son. He appears to have built a hall, 
 or mansion-house, in the manor of South Lambeth, during his tenure of it ; and from 
 this time it was called indifferently Faukeshall, or South Lambeth, and is so termed 
 in the tenth year of Edward 1. The capital messuage, with its garden, named 
 " Faukeshall," was valued in the twentieth of the same reign at 2s. yearly. We have 
 therefore satisfactory evidence that Vauxhall owes its origin and name to an obscure 
 Norman adventurer, who became suddenly rich during the turbulent reign of John, 
 and was ignominiously driven from the country in the minority of Henry III. 
 (Archceological Journal, vol. iv.) The land on which Fulke erected his hall now 
 belongs to Canterbury Cathedral. The manor of Fulkeshall fell, by attainder, to the 
 Crown. It was successively held by the Despencers and the Darnories ; but the latter 
 exchanged it with Edward III. for an estate in Suffolk ; and the manor was conferred 
 on Edward the Black Prince, who piously left it to the Church of Canterbury ; and 
 the bequest was spared by Henry VIII. to the Dean and Chapter. 
 
 The old manor-house had its name of Faukeshall changed to Copped, or Copt, Hall. Here Lady 
 Arabella Stuart was held captive, under the guardianship of Sir Thomas Barry. The tradition that it 
 ever belonged to Guido or Guy Fawkes only rests upon the coincidence of names. The estate in the 
 manors of Lambeth and Kennington belonged to a family named Faucke, or Vaux, in the reigns of 
 Elizabeth and James I.; and, in 1615, Jane Vaux, widow, held property of that description here, and 
 the mansion-house connected with it. Mr. Nichols, in his History of Lambeth Parish, mistakenly 
 affirms that Guy Vaux had a mansion here, and that it was named from him Vauxhall : he then con- 
 jectures that Jane Vaux was the relict of the infamous Guy, who was executed the 31st of January, 
 1606; but, as Mr. Bray, who was a lawyer as well as the county historian, remarks, Guy Vaux could not 
 have been the owner of the copyhold belonging to Jane Vaux in 1616 ; for if she had been his widow, it 
 would have been forfeited as the estate of a traitor. Besides, his father's name was Fawkes, and had 
 long spent his estate; and Jane was the widow of a much better man John Vaux, an honest vintner of 
 London, who bequeathed property for the erection of seven almshouses in this parish. Nevertheless, 
 the house in which the conspirators stored their powder and other combustibles, during the digging of 
 the mine, was certainly at Lambeth, and near the river-side ; but that house did not belong to any one 
 of them, it being merely hired for the purpose in the summer of 1604. Neither history nor tradition 
 has recorded the exact site of the conspirators' storehouse ; but we have the following evidence of its 
 destruction by fire. In an anniversary sermon, preached at Lambeth Church by Dr. Featley, on 
 November 5, 1635, is this passage : " You have heard the miracles of God's providence in the discovery 
 of this powder-plot : behold now the mirrour of His justice. The first contriver of the fire-workes first 
 feeleth the flame ; his powder-sin upbraids him, and fleeth in his face." It is added, in a note : " This 
 last yeare, the House where Catesby plotted this treason in Lambeth was casually burnt downe to the 
 ground by powder." Featley's Clavia Mystica, p. 824 ; 1636. 
 
 Vauxhall Gardens were first laid out about 1661. Evelyn records : " 2 July, 1661, 
 I went to see the New Spring Gardens* at Lambeth, a pretty contrived plantation ;" 
 and Balthasar Monconys, early in the reign of Charles II., describes the gardens well 
 frequented in 1663. 
 
 Sir Samuel Morland "built a fine room at Vaux-hatt anno 1667, the inside all of looking-glass, and 
 fountains very pleasant to behold, which is much visited by strangers ; it stands in the middle of the 
 Garden." (Mr. Bray thought this room to have been erected by Morland for the entertainment of 
 Charles II. when he visited this place with his ladies.) " Without the New Spring Garden is the 
 remainder of a kind of horn-work, belonging to the lines of communication made about 1643-4." 
 (Aubrey's Surrey, vol. i. pp. 12, 13.) 
 
 1 S6 
 9M4 
 
 Morlaud's room is believed to have stood where the orchestra was after- 
 wards built ; and in 1794 a leaden pump was removed bearing Sir Samuel's 
 mark as annexed : 
 
 A large mound of earth, said to have been thrown up for defence, remained to our 
 time near the firework-shed. North of the Gardens is believed to have stood a Roman 
 
 * To distinguish it from Spring Garden, Charing Cross.
 
 812 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 fort or camp ; and Roman pottery has been found here. Canute's Trench has been 
 traced through the Gardens to its influx into the Thames (MaitlancT). 
 
 In a plan dated 1681 the place is named Spring Garden, and " marked as planted 
 with trees and laid out in walks." Pepys's Diary has entries in 1665-8 of his visits 
 to Fox-hall and the Spring Garden ; and of " the humours of the citizens, pulling off 
 cherries, and God knows what ;" " to hear the nightingale and the birds, and here 
 fiddlers, and there a harp, and here a Jew's trump ; and here laughing, and there fine 
 people walking, is mighty diverting." Pepys also tells of " supper in an arbour," 
 ladies walking " with their masks on," &c. ; and 
 
 "July 27, 1668. So over the water, with my wife and Deb, and Mercer, to Spring Garden, and there 
 eat and walked; and observed how rude some of the young gallants of the town are become, to go into 
 people's arbours where there are not men, and almost force the women, which troubled me to see the 
 confidence of the vice of the age ; and so we away by water with much pleasure home." 
 
 Tom Brown, a dozen years later, speaks of the close walks and little wildernesses, 
 which " are so intricate that the most experienced mothers have often lost themselves 
 in looking for their daughters." 
 
 Wycherley refers to a cheesecake and a syllabub at New Spring Garden. And in 
 the Spectator, No. 383 (May 20, 1712), Addison describes his going with Sir Roger 
 de Coverley on the water from the Temple Stairs to Spring Garden, " which is 
 exquisitely pleasant at this time of year :" a mask tapped Sir Roger upon the shoulder 
 and invited him to drink a bottle of mead with her. The usual supper of that period 
 was " a glass of Burton ale, and a slice of hung beef." Cheesecakes and syllabubs 
 were the earlier fare in Wycherley's day ; and punch and ham were not yet heard of. 
 
 In 1728, Spring Gardens were leased by Elizabeth Masters, for 30 years, to 
 Jonathan Tyers, of Denbies, Surrey, at the yearly rent of 250. Tyers's lease 
 enumerates the Dark Room, Ham Room, Milk-house, Pantry-room ; and among the 
 arbours, covered and paved with tiles, are the names of Checker, King's Head, 
 Dragon, Oak, Royal Arbour, York, Queen's Head, Royal George, Ship, Globe, Phoenix, 
 Swan, Eagle, and the Barge. The hatch at the Water-gate was of Tyers's time. 
 
 The Gafdens were opened by Tyers, Jnne 7, 1732, with a Ridotto al fresco. 
 Frederick, Prince of Wales, was present, and the company wore masks, dominoes, and 
 lawyers' gowns. The admission was one guinea: 400 persons were present; and there 
 were 100 Foot-Guards posted round the Gardens to keep order. The admission-ticket 
 was designed by the younger Laguerre. 
 
 The author of A Touch at the Times, or a Trip to Vauxhall, 1737, sings 
 
 " Sail'd triumphant on the liquid way, 
 To hear the fiddlers of Spring Garden play." 
 
 Tyers set up an organ in the orchestra ; and in the Garden, in 1738, a fine statue 
 of Handel, as Orpheus playing a lyre, by Roubiliac, his first work in England.* 
 Here was also a statue of Milton, by Roubiliac, cast in lead, and painted stone-colour. 
 The season of 1739 was for three months, and the admission only by silver tickets, at 
 25s. each, to admit two persons. These silver tickets were struck after designs by 
 Hogarth : the obverse bore the number, name of the holder, and date ; and the 
 reverse a figure of Euterpe, Erato, or Thalia. 
 
 Hogarth, who was then lodging in Lambeth-terrace, f suggested to Tyers the em- 
 bellishment of the Gardens with paintings ; in acknowledgment of which Tyers pre- 
 sented Hogarth with a Gold Ticket of perpetual admission : it bears on its obverse, 
 " Hogarth," and beneath it, " In perpetuam beneficii memoriam ;" on the reverse are 
 two figures surrounded with the motto, " Virtus voluptas felices una." This ticket 
 (for the admission of six persons or " one coach") was last used in the season of 1836 ; 
 it was purchased for 201. by Mr. Frederick Gye. Hogarth designed for the pavilions 
 in the Gardens the Four Parts of the Day, which Hayman copied; besides other 
 pictures. In 1745, Tyers added vocal to his instrumental music, and Dr. Arne com- 
 posed ballads, duets, &c. ; Mrs. Arne, Lowe, Beard, and the elder Reinhold, were 
 singers. 
 
 * This statue was sold, in 1854. to the Sacred Harmonic Society for 200Z., and is now in their com- 
 mittee-room at Exeter Hall, Strand. 
 
 t The house which Hogarth occupied is still shown ; and a vine is pointed out which he planted. 
 Allan Cunningham, Lives of British Painters, #c., 1829.
 
 VATTXHALL GARDENS. 813 
 
 Horace Walpole, in June, 1750, went with a large party to the Gardens ; and their 
 visit is admirably described in one of Walpole's Letters. 
 
 Fielding, in his Amelia, 1751, describes the Vauxhall of that date: "the coaches 
 being come to the water-side, they all alighted, and getting into one boat, proceeded to 
 Vauxhall. The extreme beauty and elegance of the place is well known to almost 
 every one of my readers ; and happy is it for me that it is so, since to give an adequate 
 idea of it would exceed my power of description." 
 
 In England's Gazetteer, 1751, the entertainments are described as "the sweet song 
 of numbers of nightingales, in concert with the best band of musick in England. 
 Here are fine pavilions, shady groves, and most delightful walks illuminated with 
 above 1000 lamps." 
 
 In 1751, the walks are described as illuminated with above 1000 lamps ; but the 
 print of this date shows glass vase-shaped lamps on posts, and suspended in the 
 music-house, though in no great profusion. The walks are wide and open; the 
 straggling groups of company are in happy ease : the ladies in their hoops, sacques, 
 and caps, as they appeared in their own drawing-rooms; and the gentlemen in their 
 grotesque bats, and wearing swords and bags. 
 
 "At Vauxhall the artificial ruins are repaired : the cascade is made to spout with several additional 
 streams of block-tin ; and they have touched up all the pictures which were damaged last season by the 
 fingering of those curious connoisseurs who could not be satisfied without feeling whether the figures 
 were alive." Connoisseur, May 15, 1755. 
 
 Then follows the story of a parsimonious old citizen going there with his wife and 
 daughters, and grumbling at the dearness of the provisions and the wafer-like 
 thinness of the slices of ham. At every mouthful the old fellow exclaims : " There 
 goes twopence ! there goes threepence ! there goes a groat !" Then there is the old 
 joke of the wafery slices of ham, and the expert carver who undertook to cover the 
 Gardens eleven acres with slices from one ham ! 
 
 It is curious to find Sir John Fielding commending the Garden of 1757 for " its 
 elegant eatables and drinkables, in which particular Vauxhall differs widely from the 
 prudent and abstemious Ranelagh, where one is confined to tea and coffee." 
 
 In 1752, Tyers purchased a moiety of the estate for 3800/. ; and a few years after- 
 wards, as Lysons informs us from the records in the Duchy of Cornwall Office, " he 
 bought the remainder," probably at the expiration of his original lease, in 1758. 
 
 Goldsmith thus describes the Vauxhall of about 1760 : 
 
 " The lights everywhere glimmering through scarcely moving trees ; the full-bodied concert bursting 
 on the stillness of night ; the natural concert of the birds in the more retired part of the grove, vieing 
 with that which was formed by art ; the company gaily dressed, looking satisfied ; and the tables spread 
 with various delicacies, all conspired to fill my imagination with the visionary happiness of the Arabian 
 lawgiver, and lifted me into an ecstasy of admiration. ' Head of Confucius,' cried I to my friend, ' this 
 is fine! This unites rural beauty with courtly magnificence.'" (Citizen of the World, Letter Ixxi.) 
 " The last gay picture in Goldsmith's life is of himself and Sir Joshua (Reynolds) at Vauxhall. And not 
 the least memorable figures in that sauntering crowd, though it numbered princes and ambassadors 
 then; and on its tide and torrent of fashion floated all the beauty of the time : and through its lighted 
 avenues of trees glided cabinet ministers and their daughters, royal dukes and their wives, agreeable 
 Young ladies and gentlemen of eighty-two,' and all the red-heeled macaronies, were those of the 
 President and the Ancient History Professor of the Royal Academy." Forster's Goldsmith, p. 676. 
 
 Miss Burney also lays scenes of her Evelina and Cecilia in Vauxhall Gardens. 
 Tyers subsequently bought the property : he died in 1767 : " so great was the delight 
 he took in this place, that, possessing his faculties to the last, he caused himself to be 
 carried into the Gardens a few hours before his death, to take a last look at them." 
 They were called Spring Garden until 1785 ; and the licence, every season, was to 
 the last obtained for " Spring Garden, Vauxhall." The property remained with 
 Tyers's family until it was sold in 1822, for 28,OOOZ., to Bish, Gye, and Hughes (the 
 London Wine Company), who retained it till 1840. Their most profitable season was 
 in 1823 ; 133,279 visitors, 29,590. receipts : the greatest number of persons in one 
 night was Aug. 2, 1833, the second night of the revival of the shilling admission, when 
 20,137 persons paid for admission. In 1827, Charles Farley, of Covent-garden 
 Theatre, produced in the gardens a representation of the Battle of Waterloo, with set- 
 scenes of La Belle Alliance and the wood and chateau of Hougomont; also horse 
 and foot soldiers, artillery, ammunition-waggons, &c. In July, 1841, the estate (about 
 eleven acres), with its buildings, timber, covered walks, &c., was offered for sale by
 
 814 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 auction, but bought in at 20,200. The Gardens were open from 1732 to 1840 
 without intermission ; in the latter year they were closed, but were re-opened in 1841. 
 At the close of this season there was a sale of moveable property, when twenty-four 
 pictures by Hogarth and Hayman produced small sums ; they had mostly been upon 
 the premises since 1742 ; the canvas was nailed to boards, and much obscured by dirt. 
 
 Among these pictures were: By Hogarth: Drunken Man, 41. 4s.; a Woman pulling out an Old 
 Man's Grey Hairs, 31. 3s.; Jobson and Nell in the Devil to Pay, 41. 4s.; the Happy Family, 31. 15s.; 
 Children at Play, 4Z. 11s. 6d. By Hayman : Children Birds'-nesting, 51. 10s.; Minstrels, 31.-, the Enraged 
 Husband, 42. 4s.; the Bridal Day, 61. 6s. ; Blindman's Buff, 31. Si. Prince Henry and Falstaff, 71.; Scene 
 from the Rake's Progress, SI. 15s.; Merry-making, II. 12s.; the Jealous Husband, 4Z. ; Card-party, 6i.; 
 Children's Party, 4Z. los.; Battledore and Shuttlecock, II. 10.; the Doctor, 41. 14*. 6d.; Cherry-bob, 
 21. 15s.; the Storming of Seringapatam, 81. 10s.; Neptune and Britannia, 81. 15. Four busts of 
 Simpson, the celebrated Master of the Ceremonies, were sold for 10.; and a bust of his royal shipmate, 
 William IV., 19s. 
 
 The Gardens were finally closed July 25, 1859 ; and in the following month were 
 sold the theatre, orchestra, dancing-platform, firework-gallery, fountains, statues, 
 vases, paintings, &c., which brought small sums. The most attractive lot was the 
 Gothic orchestra, built by a carpenter named Maidman, and which, in 1738, had re- 
 placed Tyers's music-house. This Gothic orchestra produced 991. 
 
 The price of admission to the Gardens was Is. until 1792, except on particular 
 nights, as on the celebration of the fiftieth anniversary, when it was 10s. 6d. After 
 1792 the admission was raised to 2s., including tea and coffee ; in 1809 to 3s. Qd. ; in 
 1850 reduced to Is. ; and since various. At the Vittoria Fete, July 1814 (admission 
 one guinea), 1350 visitors dined in the rotunda, the Duke of York presiding ; there 
 were also present the Dukes of Clarence, Kent, Sussex, and Gloucester j the Princess 
 of Wales, and the Duchess of York. The fireworks were by Colonel Congreve. 
 
 The Gardens are well described in the Ambulator, 12th edition, 1820 ; where the paintings in the 
 supper-pavilions, by Hogarth and Hayman, are enumerated. Very little alteration was made in the 
 arrangement of the walks or the position of the buildings since they were originally laid out or 
 constructed by the elder Tyers, as may be seen by comparing the different views of the Gardens. 
 One of the earliest representations, dated 1737, shows the seats and supper tables in the quadrangle 
 surrounding the orchestra, together with a perspective of the Long Walk, and an Herculean statue at 
 its extremity. 
 
 The general plan of the Gardens was a quadrangular grove, with the orchestra near its centre, 
 surrounded by broad covered walks, from the roofing of which were suspended, by wires, illumination. 
 " bucket-lamps :" the earlier lamps resembled the street-lamps of the last century. At the head of the 
 quadrangle was the Prince's Pavilion, originally built for the accommodation of Frederick Prince of 
 Wales. To the right and left of the grove were semicircular sweeps of supper-boxes. The rotunda, 
 seventy feet in diameter, had part of its area enclosed as a ride for equestrian performances. At some 
 distance northward of the quadrangle was the theatre, where for many years were exhibited a mechanical 
 cascade, water-mill, and moving figures ; but latterly this theatre had been used for ballets and dramatic 
 pieces. The number of lamps upon extra gala-nights exceeded 20,000. The fireworks were discharged 
 irom a lofty tower, at the end of a long walk; whence Madame Saqui descended along a rope several 
 hundred feet in length in a shower of fire, or 11 Diavolo Antonio swung by one foot on the slack-rope, 
 playing a silver trumpet as he swung. 
 
 "See ! the large, silent, pale blue-light 
 Flares, to lead all to where the bright, 
 
 Loud rockets rush on high, 
 Like a long comet roping through 
 The night, then melting into blue, 
 
 And starring the dark sky ; 
 And Catherine-wheels, and crowns, and names 
 Of great men, whizzing in blue flames ; 
 
 Lights, like the smiles of hope; 
 And radiant, fiery palaces, 
 Showing the tops of all the trees ; 
 
 And Blackmore on the rope." 
 
 London Magazine, 1824. 
 
 Balloons were celebrated exhibitions of late. The first ascent was made from the 
 Gardens in 1802. Green made several ascents from here, the most memorable of 
 which was his voyage from Vauxhall to Weilburg, in the Duchy of Nassau, in 1836, 
 in the stupendous balloon constructed in the Gardens, at the cost of 21001. ; height, 
 80 feet ; circumference, 157 feet. This balloon was subsequently sold to Green for 5001. 
 
 Music. Among the Vauxhall composers were Arne, Boyce, Carter, Mountain, 
 Signor Storace, and Hook (organist upwards of 40 years, father of Theodore Hook, 
 and uncle of Dr. Hook, Dean of Chichester). Male singers : Beard, Lowe, Webb, 
 Dignum, Vernon, Incledon, Braham, Pyne, Sinclair, Tinney, Bx>binson, Bedford, and 
 Sharp. Females: Miss Brent, Mrs. Wrighten, Mrs. Weischel (mother of Mrs.
 
 WALBROOK WAPPING. 815 
 
 Billington), Mrs. Mountain, Signora Storace, Mrs. Crouch, Mrs. Bland, Miss Tryrer 
 (afterwards Mrs. Listen), Mis.s Graddon, Miss Love, Miss Tunstall, &c. Italian operas 
 were performed here in 1829. The band were the last to wear the semicircular or 
 cocked hat. 
 
 Fireivorks were first occasionally exhibited at Vauxhall in 1798. The late Mr. John 
 Fillinham, of Walworth, possessed a large collection of Vauxhall bills of entertainment, 
 engravings, and other interesting records of the Gardens. 
 
 The site was cleared, and a church, dedicated to St. Peter, was built upon a portion 
 of the ground ; this church being memorable as the first example in London, in the 
 present revival, of a church vaulted throughout. Here, too, have been erected a School 
 of Art ; and roads, called Auckland-street, Burnett-street, Brunei-street, Leopold- 
 street, Gye-street, and Italian-walk." See Walks and Talks about London, 1865. 
 
 WALBROOE, 
 
 A NARROW street named from the stream or brook which, rising on the north of 
 -A- Moorfields, entered the City through the watts, between Bishopsgate and Moor- 
 gate, and proceeded nearly along the line of the new street of that name ; thence, 
 according to Stow, across Lothbury, beneath the kitchen of Grocers' Hall and St. 
 Mildred's Church, through Bucklersbury, past the sign of the " Old Barge" (from 
 Thames barges being rowed up there) ; and thence through the present Walbrook- 
 street, under which it still runs as a sewer, and discharges itself, by a part of Elbow- 
 lane, down Greenwich -lane, into the Thames at Dowgate. The Walbrook was crossed 
 by a bridge connecting Budge-row and Cannon-street, and several other bridges, but 
 was vaulted over with brick, and its banks built upon, long since : so that in Stew's 
 time the course of Walbrook was " hidden under ground, and thereby hardly known." 
 The brook was navigable not merely to Bucklersbury but as far as Coleman-street, 
 where a Roman boat-hook has been found ; and with it was found a coin of Alectus, 
 who ruled in Britain towards the close of the third century. In forming Prince's- 
 street, the workmen came upon the course of the brook, which the Romans had em- 
 banked with wooden piles ; and the bed was thickly strewn with coins, brass scales, 
 styli, knives, tools, pottery, &c. In Walbrook was one of the three taverns in London 
 licensed to sell sweet wines in the reign of Edward III. Walbrook gives name to the 
 ward : at its north-east corner is St. Stephen's Church, described at p. 204. Lower 
 down, upon the brook, at Dowgate-hill, was the church of Allhallows the Less, destroyed 
 in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt ; but its burial-ground, with a solitary altar-tomb, 
 remains. Nearly opposite London Stone, in June, 1852, was unearthed part of the 
 cloister of the church of St. Mary Bothaw, which stood near Walbrook bank at Dow- 
 gate, and was named Boat-haw from being near a yard where boat-building was car- 
 ried on : in the church was interred Fitzalwin, first Mayor of London. The writer of 
 a quarto History of London, 1805, states that, in 1803, he saw the Wallbrook " still 
 trickling among the foundations of the new buildings at the Bank." 
 
 WAPPING, 
 
 A HAMLET of Stepney, is now a long street extending from Lower East Smith- 
 field, on the north bank of the Thames, to New Crane. It was commenced 
 building in 1571, to secure the manor from the encroachments of the river, which made 
 the whole site a great wash j the Commissioners of Sewers rightly thinking that " the 
 tenants would not fail being attentive to their lives and property." Stow calls it 
 " Wapping in the Wose," or Wash. 
 
 Here was Execution Dock, "the usual place for hanging of pirates and sea-rovers, at the low-water 
 mark, and there to remain till three tides had overflowed them ; but since the gallows being after 
 removed farther off, a continual street or filthy strait passage, with alleys of small tenements or cottages 
 built, inhabited by sailors' victuallers, along by the river of Thames almost to Radcliffe, a good mile 
 from the Tower." Stow. 
 
 Pennant notes : " Execution Dock still remains at Wapping, and is in use as often 
 as a melancholy occasion requires. The criminals are to this day executed on a tem- 
 porary gallows placed at low-water mark ; but the custom of leaving the body to be 
 overflowed by the sea tides has long been omitted." London, 5th edit.
 
 816 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 In 1703 a destructive fire took place at Execution Dock, by which the sufferers, 
 mostly seamen, sea-artificers, and poor seamen's widows, lost 13,040Z. And in 1794, 
 a great fire occurred at Wapping, burning 630 houses, and an East India warehouse 
 containing 35,000 bags of saltpetre the loss was 1,000,0002. 
 
 To Wapping, in 1688, Lord Chancellor Jeffreys fled in the disguise of a coal-porter, 
 and was captured in the Red Cow ale-house, in Anchor and Hope-alley, near King 
 Edward's Stairs. He was identified by a scrivener he had formerly insulted, lolling out 
 of window in all the confidence of misplaced security. (Cunningham.) But at Leather- 
 head, where Jeffreys had a mansion, it is traditionally asserted that he was betrayed 
 by the butler who accompanied him in his flight, for the sake of the reward. 
 
 Joseph Ames, F.R.S., author of the Typographical Antiquities, and Secretary to 
 the Society of Antiquaries, was a ship-chandler at Wapping, where he died in 1758: 
 " he was a person of vast application and industry in collecting old printed hooks, 
 prints, and other curiosities, both natural and artificial." (Cole.) John Day, with 
 whom originated "Fairlop Fair," in Hainault Forest, was a block and a pump 
 maker at Wapping. Here the first Fuchsia brought to England from the West 
 Indies, being seen by Mr. Lee, the nurseryman, became, in the next flowering season, 
 the parent of 300 fuchsia-plants, which Lee sold at one guinea each. 
 
 Wapping is noted, as in Stow's time, for its nautical signs, its ship and boat builders, 
 rope-makers, biscuit-bakers and provision-dealers ; mast, oar, and block makers ; ship- 
 chandlers and sail-makers : and the name Wapping was probably derived from the 
 ship's rope called a wapp ; or from wapin-schaw, a periodical exhibition of arms, which 
 may formerly have been held upon this open ground. In the list of subscribers to 
 Wren's Parentalia, 1750, is " The Mathematical Society of Wapping " and nautical 
 instrument makers are said to have abounded here. 
 
 Among the thirty-six taverns and public-houses in Wapping High-street and Wapping Wall, we find 
 the signs of the Ship and Pilot, Ship and Star, Ship and Punch-bowl, Union Flag and Punch-bowl, the 
 Gun, Norlh American Sailor, Golden Anchor, Anchor and Hope, the Ship, Town of Bamsgate, Queen's 
 Landing, Ship and Whale, the Three Mariners, and the Prospect of Whitby. 
 
 Between Nos. 288 and 304 are " Wapping Old Stairs," in Wapping-street, on the 
 western side of the church ; but the wood-built wharf and house fronts towards the 
 river are fast disappearing. 
 
 Strype relates that " on Friday, the 24th of July, 1629, King Charles having 
 hunted a stag or hart from Wanstead, in Essex, killed him in Nightingale-lane, in the 
 
 hamlet of Wapping, in a garden belonging to one , who had some damage among 
 
 his herbs, by reason of the multitude of people there assembled suddenly." 
 
 The village of Radcliffe, to which Wapping joins, is of some antiquity. From hence 
 the gallant Sir Hugh Willoughby, on May the 20th, 1553, took his departure on his 
 fatal voyage for discovering the north-east passage to China. He sailed with great 
 pomp by Greenwich, where the Court then lay. Mutual honours were paid on both 
 sides. The council and courtiers appeared at the windows, the people covered the 
 shores. The young King alone lost the noble and novel sight ; for he then lay on his 
 death-bed ; so that the principal object of the parade was disappointed. Haleluyt t 
 i. 239. Pennant's London, 5th edit. 
 
 WA TLIN&-STREET, 
 
 /COMMENCING at the north-east corner of St. PauPs-churchyard, and formerly 
 VJ extending through Budge-row and Cannon-street, is considered to have been the 
 principal street of Roman London, and " one of the four grand Roman ways in Bri- 
 tain ;"* as well as a British road before the arrival of the Romans : " with the Britons 
 it was a forest-lane or trackway ; with the Romans it became a stratum, street, or 
 
 * The Watling-street Thistle (Eryngium campestre) is named from this ancient road being its only 
 known habitat in England. Baker's Northamptonshire Glossary, ii. 386. Watling-street, part of 
 which remains, is one of the narrowest and most inconvenient streets in the metropolis : 
 
 "Who would of Watling-street the dangers share, 
 When the broad pavement of Cheapside is near?" 
 
 Gay's Trivia.
 
 WATLING-STREET. 817 
 
 raised road, constructed according to their well-known manner." (A. J. Kempe, 
 ArckcBoloyia, xxvi. 467.) This is corroborated by the discovery of British remains on 
 the line, in Cannon-street. The Romans made it part of their grand route from the 
 point of their invasion, through a portion of Kent and the north-eastern corner of 
 Surrey, and thence from Stoney -street over the Thames to Dowgate, north of the river, 
 by tlie present Watling-street, to Aldersgate ; where, quitting the City, it ran along 
 Goswell-street to the west of Islington, through Hagbush-lane (the road in part 
 remains), to Verulamium, or St. Albans. Dr. Stukeley, however, maintains that the 
 old Watling-street did not enter London, but, in its course from Verulam, crossed the 
 Oxford-road at Tyburn, and thence ran over part of Hyde Park, and by May Fair 
 through St. James's Park, to the Wool-staple at Westminster, and crossed the 
 Thames by Stanegate-ferry, through St. George's Fields, and south of the Lock Hospital, 
 Kent-street, to Deptford and Blackheath. Stukeley adds : " as London increased, 
 passengers went through the City by Cannon-street, Watling-street, and Holborn, this 
 being a vicinal branch of Watling-street." Wren, however, considers it to have been 
 the centre or Praetorian way of the old Roman station ; the principal gate being at 
 Eastcheap. In 1853, in excavating Budge-row, there was discovered a fragment of 
 Roman wall. 
 
 In a folio Map of Middlesex, by Bowen, 1709, a Roman road appears from the corner of the 
 Tottenham-court-road, whevo the Hampstead-road and the Euston-road now meet, running through 
 what must now be the Regent's Park, until it reaches Edgware, and thence to Brockley Hills, called 
 SulloniacBE, an ancient city in Antonine's Itinerary. In this Map, or ill another with the same route, 
 Watling-street is printed upon the highway that leads to Tyburn Turnpike, in a manner to show the 
 whole of that distance is meant. The Roman road from Tottenham Court, after making its appearance 
 in a variety of other maps, up to a certain date, about 1780, is nowhere to be found since in any of the 
 Middlesex Maps. It is, however, certain that the part of Watling-street crossing Oxford-street at 
 Tyburn, must have led to Edgware. 
 
 " Watling-street crossed the Walbrook by a bridge at the junction of Cannon-street and Budge-row, 
 and then branching off at London Stone, in Cannon-street, ran along the Langbourne to Aldgate ; whilst 
 a smaller road ran from the ferry at Dowgate towards Cripplegate, one of the three City gates during 
 the Roman rule. Enough of remains of houses have been found in Budge-row and Watling-street to 
 show that the rudiments of a street, in continuation of the line from Aldgate, existed on the west side 
 of the brcok." National Migcetlany, No. 6. 
 
 This street, says Lcland, was formerly called AtTieling (or Noble) street, from being 
 near the Old Change, where the Mint formerly was; and afterwards, corruptly, 
 Watheling and Wailing street : but from this Stow dissents. By another, Watling ' 
 is traced to the ancient British words, gwaith, work, and lea, legion, whence gwaith- 
 lea i.e., legion work (Gent. Mag. 1796). Dr. Jamieson states it to have been "called 
 by the Romans Via Laciea (Milky Way), from its fancied resemblance to a broad 
 street, or causeway, being as it were paved with stars." Moxon, in his Tutor to 
 Astronomy, 1670, describing the Milky Way, observes : " some, in a sporting manner, 
 call it Watling-street ; but why they call it so I cannot tell, except it be in regard to 
 the narrowness it seemeth to have," which narrowness is now contrasted with the fine 
 broud thoroughfare of Cannon-street West. We must make room for a few more 
 etymons of this much disputed word : 
 
 " The two words Watling Street are compounded of three English roots, which are identical with the 
 Anglo-Saxon roots icaetliiig-straet. No etymology hitherto advanced approximates so near, or is so sig- 
 nificant or appropriate as this. We have to bear in mind that long before embankment and drainage 
 were attended to in this couatry, the meadows (ings) were flooded after rain; and the mode of passing 
 along the streets (the straight or direct ways), where such impediment occurred, was by wattles or 
 hurdles, called by the French facines, and which are now used for the same purpose in military opera- 
 tions. With so clear an etymological deduction, we can dispense with Hoveden's strata quamfilii regie 
 Wethlae ttraverunt (Annales, 342), with Camden's Vitellianus, in British Guetalin, and even with 
 Thierry's Gficydd-elin-sarn, Road of the Gaels or Irish ( Norman Conquest, i. 165), which are the only 
 other etymologies deserving attention. It is to be noted that Anglo-Saxon names were given to works 
 already ancient, when such names were imposed." T. J. Buckton, Notes and Queries, 2nd S., vii. 
 
 The following is considered a good derivation: the name a Saxon corruption of the Cymric 
 Gwydelinsarn (the way of the Gael), so called because it led to the country of the Gwyddyl Ireland. 
 It is much more probable that it was the work of that people during its dominancy in South Britain ; 
 just as were the houses whose ruins, two centuries ago, were called by the Welsh the houses of the Gael. 
 (Thierry's Norman Conquest, vol. i. p. 2, note. Notes and Queries, 2nd S., No. 40.) It is also suggested 
 to have been called by corruption only Vitellin, or Watling-street, from the name of Vitellianus. 
 
 Mr. T. Reveley, of Kendal, suggests that the Romans probably employed brushwood in forming the 
 foundations of their roads,* and may have wattled it to give it greater consistency ; and that the name 
 had been given to the several roads so called by the Anglo-Saxons from the wattling, the remains of 
 which they had found. It would thus be synonymous with the name Wicker-street, which occurs in the 
 tenth Antonine Itinerary. Proc. Soc. Antiq., vol. iv. p. 256. 
 
 * Fagots are, to this day, used in making our roads. 
 
 3 G
 
 818 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Watling-street has been, since Stow's time, inhabited by " wealthy drapers, retailers 
 of woollen cloths, both broad and narrow, of all sorts." Hatton describes it as " much 
 inhabited by wholesale grocers, tobacconists, and other great dealers." Several of the 
 new buildings in Cannon-street are mansion-like warehouses. At the. east end are 
 immense warehouses of the Manchester and silk trades j the German bronze and Bohe- 
 mian glass trades ; the pin and needle trade j and about the centre the paper trade. 
 Near St. Swithin's-laue, are the wholesale tea and grocery and spice trades. Here, too, 
 are leading houses of the shipping-trade, and Colonial Banks and Assurance Companies. 
 Messrs. Lawrence and Sons (Alderman W. Lawrence, Lord Mayor, 1863-4) are the 
 builders of several of these noble piles, and are the ground-landlords. Here is the 
 City station of the South-Eastern Railway. 
 
 The water-front towers of the Station have gilded metal finials, with weather-vanes and arms. The 
 edifice, with its vast arch, its spacious platforms, its ten lines of rails, its broad carriage-way, and, at 
 the end, the handsome inner front of the hotel, and the flank erections, is probably the finest station in 
 London. The elaborate apparatus of the Cannon-street signal-box stretches across nearly the entire 
 width of the roadway, and has above the roof 24 semaphore arms, and 16 lamps showing red, green, 
 and white lights. The switches which work the points and signals are adjusted in a metal frame in one 
 straight line, and are an admirable and elaborate piece of mechanism. The levers, 67 in number, are 
 coloured yellow, white, black, blue, and red, and numbered progressively by circular brass plates on their 
 fronts. The yellow levers work the distance signals, and are nine in number; the white, of which there 
 are three, are indicators, and relate to the station ; the black levers, of which there are 30, work the points, 
 which appear very complicated, there being as many as 12 pairs of rails passing under the signal box. 
 The blue levers work the semaphore arms for trains outward; and the red levers, 16 in number, signal 
 the train inwards. 
 
 LONDON STONE, the famous Roman relic of Watling-street, is described at pp. 533-534. 
 WAX- WORK SHO WS. 
 
 THE oldest Exhibition of Wax-work in England of which we have any record was 
 that at Westminster Abbey, called " the Play of the Dead Volks," and " the 
 Ragged Regiment," shown by the keeper of the tombs. From a passage in a rhyming 
 account of the tombs in Westminster Abbey, in the Mysteries of Love and Eloquence, 
 1658, it would appear that at that time the following were the waxen figures exhibited 
 in the presses : 
 
 " Henry the Seventh, and his fair Queen, 
 
 Edward the First, and his Queen ; 
 Henry the Fifth here stands upright, 
 And his fair Queen was this Queen. 
 
 " The noble prince, Prince Henry, 
 
 King James's eldest son ; 
 Sing James, Queen Anne, Queen Elizabeth, 
 
 And so this chapel's done." 
 
 In Peacham's Worth of a Penny, 1667, we read : " For a penny you may hear a 
 most eloquent oration upon our English kings and queens, if, keeping your hands off, 
 you will seriously listen to David Owen, who keeps the monuments in Westminster." 
 
 Of the wax-work (which is mentioned at p. 128) we find the following account in a 
 description of the Abbey, " its monuments and curiosities," " printed for J. Kewbery, 
 at the Bible and Sun, in St. Paul's Churchyard, 1754 :" 
 
 " Over this chapel (Islip, otherwise St. Erasmus) is a chantry in which are two large wainscot presses 
 full of the effigies of princes and others of high quality, buried in this Abbey. These effigies resembled 
 the deceased as near as possible, and were wont to be exposed at the funerals of our princes and other 
 great personages in open chariots, with their proper ensigns of royalty or honour appended. Those 
 that are here laid up are in a sad mangled condition; some stripped, and others in tattered robes, but 
 all maimed or broken. The most ancient are the least injured, by which it would seem as if the costli- 
 ness of their clothes had occasioned this ravage; for the robes of Edward VI., which were once of 
 crimson velvet, but now appear like leather, are left entire ; but those of Q. Elizabeth and K. James 
 the First are entirely stript, as are all the rest, of every thing of value. In two handsome wainscot 
 presses are the effigies of K. William and Q. Mary, and Q. Anne, in good condition, and greatly admired 
 by every eye that beholds them." The figure of Cromwell is not here mentioned ; but in the account 
 of his lying-in-state, the effigies is described as made to the life, in wax, apparelled in velvet, gold lace, 
 and ermine. This figure was laid upon the bed-of-state, and carried upon the hearse in the funeral 
 procession ; both were then deposited in Westminster Abbey : but at the ^Restoration, the hearse was 
 broken in pieces, and the effigies was destroyed after hanging from a window at Whitehall. 
 
 Under date of 1761, Horace Walpole complains that " the Chapter of Westminster 
 sell their church over and over again : the ancient monuments tumble npon one's head 
 through their neglect, as one of them did, and killed a man, at Lady Elizabeth Percy's 
 funeral j and they erect new waxen dolls of Queen Elizabeth, &c., to draw visits and 
 money from the mob."
 
 WAX-WORK SHOWS. 819 
 
 In the Picture of London, 1806, the collection is described as " a variety of figures 
 in wax, in cases with glass doors, which are shown as curious to the stranger ;" their 
 exhibition was continued until 1839. 
 
 Nollekens, the sculptor, used to describe the collection as " the wooden figures, with 
 wax masks, all in silk tatters, that the Westminster hoys called ' the Ragged liegiment ;' 
 and carried before the corpse formerly ; kept in narrow closets between the wax figures 
 of Queen Elizabeth and Lord Chatham in his robes; in Bishop Islip's Chapel, where 
 you have seen the stained glass of a boy slipping down a tree, a slip of a tree, and the 
 eye slipping out of its socket." 
 
 NEW EXCHANGE, Strand, was also noted for its Wax-work shows. 
 
 Mus. SALMON'S WAX-WOKE, in Fleet-street, is described at p. 350. The minor 
 Exhibitions of wax-work are too numerous to mention ; but we may instance a collec- 
 tion of figures shown at the Queen's Bazaar, Oxford-street, in 1830; and Dubourg's 
 Mechanical Exhibition, in Windmill-street, Haymarket; as admirable specimens of 
 foreign ingenuity in wax-modelling. To these may be added the lifelike and spirited 
 figures of costumed natives of Mexico, and American Indians, modelled in wax with 
 surprising minuteness and artistic feeling ooth in the position and grouping, varied 
 expression, and anatomical development ; tnese figures, at the Great Exhibition of 
 1851, gained for their artist, N. Montanari, a prize medal. 
 
 MADAME TUSSATID AND SON'S Collection, Baker-street, Portman-square, is stated to 
 be the oldest exhibition in Europe. It was commenced on the Boulevard du Temple 
 at Paris in 1780, and was first shown in London, at the Lyceum, Strand, in 1802. It 
 now consists of upwards of 300 figures in wax, in the costume of their time, and several 
 in the dresses which they actually wore ; besides a large collection of paintings and 
 sculpture, arranged in superb saloons. 
 
 Madame Tussaud was bom at Berne, in Switzerland, in 1760. When a child she was taught to 
 model figures in wax, by her uncle M. Curtius, at whose house she often dined with Voltaire, Rousseau, 
 Dr. Franklin, Mirabeau, and La Fayette, of whose heads she took casts. She taught drawing and 
 modelling to the Princess Elizabeth, and many of the French noblesse, just before the Revolution of 
 1789. She also modelled in wax Robespierre, Marat, and Danton ; and often took models of heads 
 severed on the scaffold. Thus she commenced her collection of royalists, revolutionists, generals, 
 authors and men of science, and distinguished ladies ; with which she came to London in 1802. She 
 has left her Memoirs and Reminiscences, published in 1838 ; a very curious narrative of the old French 
 Revolution, and its leading characters en costume. Madame Tussaud died in London, 15 April, 1850, 
 aged 90 ; her mother lived to the same age, her grandmother to 104, and her great-grandmother to 111. 
 
 The Tussaud Collection not only contains fine specimens of modelling in wax, but a 
 curious assemblage of costume and personal decoration, memorials of celebrated 
 characte/s, historical groups, &c. Among the most noteworthy are the costumed 
 recumbent effigies of the Duke of Wellington; a group of Henry VIII. and his six 
 queens ; Edward VI. and Henry VII. ; Queen Victoria and Prince Albert ; the Prince 
 and Princess of Wales ; the Prince and Princess of Hesse ; and the rest of the Eoyal 
 Family ; Alexander Emperor of Russia, taken from life, in England, in 1814 ; Napoleon 
 Bonaparte, from life, in 1815 ; Louis XVI., his queen and children, modelled from, 
 life, in 1790, and exhibited at La Petite Trianon ; Lord Nelson, the cast taken from 
 his face ; the beautiful Madame 1'Amaranthe ; Madame Tussaud, taken by herself, 
 William Cobbett, very like; Madame Grisi as Lucrezia Borgia; Richard III., from 
 the portrait at Arundel Castle ; Voltaire (taken from life a few mouths before his 
 death), and a Coquette of the same period, both admirably characteristic ; Loushkin, 
 the Russian giant, 8 feet 5 inches high ; Jenny Lind, very like ; Sir Walter Scott, 
 modelled by Madame Tussaud, in Edinburgh, in 1828 ; the Empress Eugenie and the 
 Prince Imperial of France ; Maximilian, Emperor of Mexico ; Garibaldi, Counb Cavour, 
 Poerio, Antonelli, and Count Bismarck ; Presidents Lincoln and Johnson (United 
 States) ; Queen Victoria (recently added). The sovereigns of the world, heroes and 
 statesmen, are well-timed additions. 
 
 Hall of Kings. Kings and Queens of England, since the Conquest, thirty-six in 
 number ; the costumes and ornaments worn at the various periods, copied from historical 
 authorities, by Mr. Francis Tussaud and assistants. This series has proved an especially 
 attractive addition. The celebrities of the reigns are added ; as Wicklifie, Wykeham, 
 Chaucer, Caxton, Shakspeare, &c. The ceiling of the Hall of Kings is painted by Sir 
 
 3 a 2
 
 820 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 James Thornhill. Here are portraits of Queen Victoria (Hayter); Prince Albert 
 (Patten); George IV. (Lawrence); William IV. (Simpson); George III. and Queen 
 Charlotte (Reynolds) ; George II. (Hudson) ; Louis XIV. (Parosel). Also a group of 
 figures of Queen Victoria (the throne from Carlton Palace) ; the Queen Dowager, the 
 Dukes of Sussex and Cambridge, and the Princess Augusta, in Coronation robes ; 
 George III. taken from life in 1809 ; William IV. as Lord High Admiral. 
 
 In the richly-gilt chamber adjoining is George IV. in his Coronation Robe, which, 
 with two other robes, contain 567 feet of velvet and embroidery, and cost 18,OOOZ. : 
 the chair is the homage-chair, used at the Coronation; and the crown and sceptre, orb, 
 orders, &c., are copies from the actual regalia. Here is a large picture of the Birth of 
 Venus, by Boucher; and of the Marriage of George IV., with many portraits. 
 
 Napoleon Relics. The camp-bedstead on which Napoleon died ; the counterpane 
 stained with his blood. Cloak worn at Marengo. Three eagles taken at Waterloo. 
 Cradle of the King of Rome. Bronze posthumous cast of Napoleon, and hat worn by 
 him. Whole-length portrait of the Emperor, from Fontainebleau ; Marie Louise and 
 Josephine, and other portraits of the Bonaparte family. Bust of Napoleon, by Canova. 
 Isabey's portrait table of the Marshals. Napoleon's three carriages : two from 
 Waterloo, and a landau from St. Helena. His gnrden chair and drawing-room chair. 
 " The flag of Elba." Napoleon's sword, diamond, tooth-brush, and table-knife; dessert 
 knife, fork, and spoons ; coffee-cup ; a piece of willow-tree from St. Helena ; shoe-socks 
 and handkerchiefs, shirt, &c. Model figure of Napoleon in the clothes he wore at 
 Longwood; and porcelain dessert-service used by him. Napoleon's hair and tooth, &c. 
 
 Miscellaneous Relics. Nelson's Order of the Bath, and coat worn at the Nile. 
 Snuff-box of James II. Shirt worn by Henry IV. of France when stabbed by 
 Ravaillac (from Cardinal Mazarin's collection). Coat and waistcoat of the Duke of 
 'Wellington, given to Haydon, the painter. Model of Longwood, St. Helena. 
 
 The Chamber of Horrors contains portrait figures of the murderers Rush and the 
 Mannings, Good and Greenacre, Courvoisier and Gould, Burke and Hare ; Dumollard 
 and his wife, believed to have murdered seventeen or eighteen persons ; Nana Sahib j 
 George Townley. Pierri, Pianori, and Orsini, who attempted to assassinate the Emperor 
 of the French. William Palmer and Catherine Wilson, the poisoners. Oxford and 
 Francis, who shot at Queen Victoria. Franz Miiller, murderer ; Fieschi and the 
 infernal-machine ; Marat, taken immediately after his assassination ; heads of French 
 Revolutionists ; the knife and lunette used in decapitating 22,000 persons in the first 
 French Revolution, purchased from M. Sanson, the grandson of the original executioner, 
 now residing in Paris. Also a model of the guillotine, &c. ; this being a class of models 
 in which Madame Tussaud excelled in her youth. Admission to the general collec- 
 tion, Is. ; Chamber of Horrors, 6d. Music, instrumental, in the evening. 
 
 THE OEIENTAI AND TURKISH MUSEUM, Knightsbridge, opened 1854, contained 
 models from Eastern life, with costumes, arms, and implements; set scenes of Turkish 
 baths, coffee- shops and bazaars, a wedding, repasts, and councils; the palace, the 
 harem, and the divan ; street scenes, &c. ; the figures were modelled in wax, by James 
 Boggi, with wonderful variety of expression and character. 
 
 WESTMINSTER. 
 
 rFHE general title of the western portion of the metropolis, but properly applying 
 J- only to the City of Westminster, or " the parish of St. Margaret, including the 
 ecclesiastical district of St. John the Evangelist ; the other parishes constituting the 
 Liberties of Westminster." (Rev. M. E. C. Walcott.) It is named from the found- 
 ing of St. Peter's Minster on Thorney Island in the seventh century, which was called 
 West Minster to distinguish it from St. Paul's, the church of the East Saxons : thus 
 the town grew up around the monastery from which it took its name. The island site, 
 " formed by the rude channel worn by the river tides," in a charter of King Offa, 
 A.D. 785, is called " Torneia in loco terribili, quod dicitur set. Westmunster." King 
 Edgar's charter describes Westminster to extend from Fleet Ditch, next the City of 
 London, to the Military Way, now the Horseferry-road ; and from Ty bourn and
 
 WESTMINSTER. ?21 
 
 Holbourne to the Thames. Subsequently, the boundary of the City of London was 
 extended from Fleet Ditch to Temple Bar. 
 
 Thorney Island, 470 yards long and 370 yards broad, was insulated by a small 
 stream, called in modern times Long Ditch, which has been traced from the Thames at 
 Manchester-buildings, across King-street by Gardener's-lane, by Prince's-street (where 
 it is the common sewer), to Tothill-street, and thence to the Thames at the end of 
 Abingdon-street. 
 
 " This island comprised the precinct of the Abbey and Palace,' which were further defended by lofty 
 stone walls : those on the east and south of the College gardens being the last remains of such defences 
 of a later date. They were pierced with four gateways : the first in King-street; the second near New 
 Palace-yard, the foundations of which were seen in December A.D. 1838, in excavating for a sewer ; the 
 third opening into Tothill-street; and the fourth near the mill in College-street. The precinct was 
 entered by two bridges : one crossed the water of Long Ditch, at the east end of Gardener's-lane, 
 having been built by Queen Matilda, the consort of King Henry I., for foot passen?ers ; the other still 
 exists at the east end of College-street, underneath the pavement, it connected Millbank with Dirty- 
 lane." Walcott's Westminster, p. 3. 
 
 Westminster, like Chelsea, Lambeth, and all the ow-lying western districts of London, stands upon 
 gravels and sands of a depth of 25 to 30 feet, with a breadth of from two to two and a-half miles, over- 
 lying a thick stratum of London clay. In the Westminster gravels mammalian remains are frequently 
 found. From the sandy beds abutting against the abrupt line of London clay in excavations for sewers 
 in St. James's-square, and for the foundations of the Junior United (service Club, Charles-street, Hay- 
 market, tusks, teeth, and bones of the elephant, hippopotamus, rhinoceros, ox, &c., were obtained, 
 specimens of some of which are preserved carefully at the above-named club. B. W. Mylne, F.G.S. 
 
 In Domesday-Book, Westminster is designated a village, with about 50 holders of 
 land, and " pannage for a hundred hogs," probably in part of the forest of Middlesex, 
 on the north-west ; so that the Liberty of Westminster thus early extended northward 
 to Tyburn : the whole of the Abbey and Palace precinct, south of Pall Mall, was called 
 by the Normans, " Thorney Island and tout le champ." In Domesday, also, occurs " the 
 vineyard lately made by Baynard," a nobleman that came in with William the Con- 
 queror. Westward, the parish of St. Margaret's extends to Chelsea, and includes 
 Kensington Palace. In 1174, Fitzstephen describes the Royal Palace as about two 
 miles westward of the City of London, with an intervening suburb of gardens and 
 orchards. Around the Old Palace the courtiers and nobility fixed their town residences. 
 The establishment of the Woolstaple at Westminster made it the early resort of 
 merchants ; the Law Courts were fixed here, and thenceforth Parliaments were more 
 frequently held ; and in the reign of Henry VIII., Westminster obtained the title of 
 City, from its having been for a short time the residence and see of a bishop. St. 
 Martin's-in-the- Fields became a parish 1353-61. 
 
 Early in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, about 1560, a plan shows Westminster united 
 to London by a double line of buildings, extending from the palace of Whitehall (built 
 by Henry III.), by Charing Cross and along the Strand. Around Westminster Abbey 
 and Hall, the buildings formed a town of several streets; and at the close of Charles 
 II. 's reign they had extended westward along the south side of St. James's Park; and 
 southward along Millbank to the Horseferry opposite Lambeth Palace. In the reign 
 of Elizabeth, Westminster was the abode of great numbers of felons, masterless men, 
 and cutpurses j and in the next reign, " almost every fourth house was an alehouse, 
 harbering all sorts of lewd and badde people." To the church of St. Margaret 
 (originally built by Edward the Confessor) was added, in 1728, St. John's near Mill- 
 bank ; and in 1747 was completed Westminster Bridge. The old streets were so 
 narrow, that " opposite neighbours might shake hands out of the windows ;" and a 
 knot of wretched lanes and alleys were called " the desert of Westminster." Among 
 the old Westminster signs, mentioned in the parish-books, are The Rose (the Tudor 
 badge) ; The Lamb and the Saracen's Head (Crusades) ; and The White Hart (Richard 
 II.), to this day the sign of Elliot's Brewery at Pimlico. Westminster is governed 
 by a High-Steward and a High-Bailiff. The first High-Stevrard was the great Lord 
 Burghley. The City has returned two members to Parliament since 1 Edward VI. 
 
 Abingdon-street has been built in pkce of Dirty-lane. Almonry, the (see p. 6), 
 has disappeared. St. Anne's-lane, named from the Chapel of the Mother of Our 
 Lady, was part of the orchard and fruit-gardens of the Abbey. Henry Purcell and 
 Dr. Heather, the famous musicians, lived here. Artillery -place was the ground for 
 the men of Westminster's shooting at " the butts ;" and early in the last century it 
 was " made use of by those who delight in military exercises."
 
 822 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Barton-street was built by Barton Booth, the celebrated actor ; and Cowley-street 
 is named from Cowley, in Middlesex, where Booth resided. Broadway, west of 
 Tothill-street, was granted as a hay-market by James I. and Charles II. Here were 
 " the White Horse and Black Horse Inns ; there being none in the parish of St. 
 Margaret at Westminster for stage-coaches, waggons, or carriers." (Survey, circ. 
 1700.) In one of the Broadway courts lodged Turpin, the highwayman ; and from 
 his mare, Black Bess, a tavern took its sign. In the Broadway lived Sir John Hill, 
 the empiric, of physic-garden fame. (See CHRISTCHTJECH, Broadway, p. 156.) 
 
 Canon-row formerly extended from the Woolstaple northward to the south wall of 
 the orchard of Whitehall. It is named from the dean and canons of St. Stephen's Chapel 
 lodging there. 
 
 "'Twas the old way when the King of England had his house, there were canons to sing service in 
 his chapel ; so at Westminster is St. Stephen's Chapel (where the House of Commons sits) from which 
 canons the street called Canon-row has its name, because they lived there." Selden's Table-talk. 
 
 It has been vulgarly called Channel-row, and in our time Cannon-row. Upon the site 
 of the canon's houses were built several mansions, the gardens of which reached to the 
 Thames : for one of these the Comptroller of the Household of Edward VI. paid only 
 30.?. annually. Here Anne Duchess of Somerset, sister-in-law to Queen Katherine 
 Parr, built a stately house, wherein Anne Clifford, Countess of Dorset, Was born in 
 1590 : upon this site is Dorset-court. In 1618, William Earl of Derby built here a 
 mansion, which was surrendered to Parliament temp. Charles I. ; and here died, in 
 1643, John Pym, their patriotic leader : the house was temporarily, in the reign of 
 Charles II., the Admiralty Office ; it occupied the site of Derby-court. In Canon-row 
 lived Lady Wheler, to whom Charles I., two days before his execution, sent, by his 
 attendant Herbert, a token-ring : the lady handed him a cabinet, with which he returned 
 to the King, who opened it on the morning of his execution j it contained diamonds and 
 jewels, most part broken Georges and garters: "You see," said he, "all the wealth 
 now in my power to give my children." Here is the Office of the Board of Control 
 for the Affairs of India, originally built for the Ordnance Office, by William Atkin- 
 son : " the Ionic portico of this chaste and fine building is one of the best proportioned 
 and best applied in the metropolis" (Elmes). Manchester-buildings occupy the site of 
 a mansion of the Montagues, Earls of Manchester. Charles-street : at No. 19 lived 
 Ignatius Sancho, a negro, who had been butler to the Duke of Montague, and gave his 
 last shilling to see Garrick play Richard III. Here Garrick and Sterne visited him ; 
 and Mortimer, the painter, often consulted him. 
 
 Dean's-yard, south-west of the Abbey, has a green, or playground, for the West- 
 minster Scholars, whereon have played, in "careless childhood," Ben Jonson, George 
 Herbert, Cowley, Dryden, Nat. Lee, Howe, Prior, Churchill, Dyer, Cowper, and 
 Southey; Hakluyt, the voyager; Sir Christopher Wren, Locke, South, Atterbury, 
 Warren Hastings, and Gibbon. In Dean's-yard lived Sir Symonds d'Evves, the anti- 
 quary, who delighted in bell-ringing. Bishop Wilcocks, whom Pope Clement VIII. 
 <?alled " the blessed heretic," was born in Dean's-yard in 1673 ; in the cloisters, in 
 1708, died the excellent Bishop Beveridgej Carte, the Jacobite historian, lived in 
 Dean's-yard, where Mrs. Porter, Gibbon's aunt, built and occupied a boarding-house. 
 In Little Dean's-yard is ASHBURNHAM HOUSE, described at p. 444. Downing, 
 street is described at p. 807. Duke-street, "a spacious and pleasant street between St. 
 James's Park N., and Long Ditch S., mostly (especially the W. side) inhabited by 
 persons of quality " (Hatton, 1708). In a house facing Charles-street lived the poet 
 Prior. Bishop Stillingfleet, author of Origines Britannica, died here 1699 ; Archbishop 
 Hutton, 1758 ; and Dr. Arnold, the musical composer, 1802. DUKE-STEEET CHAPEL is 
 described at p. 210.* At the corner of the south end of Delahay-street and Great 
 George-street lived Lady Augusta Murray, " Duchess of Sussex." 
 
 * The chapel was a portion of the magnificent house built for Lord Chancellor Jeffreys, upon a plot 
 of ground which he obtained by grant from Charles II., on the east side of St. James's I'ark. "As 
 
 oguage. The general character and despotic power of Jeffreys pre- 
 vented the architect from taking any legal steps in the business, till Jeffreys' power began to wane
 
 WESTMINSTER. 823 
 
 Fludyer '-street, between King-street and St. James's Park, was named from Sir 
 Samuel Fludyer, Bart., the ground-landlord, who, when lord-mayor in 1761, enter- 
 tained George III. and Queen Charlotte at Guildhall. Fludyer-street occupied the 
 site of Axe-yard, from the Axe brewhouse, named in a document 23 Hen. VIII. Pepys 
 had a house here. Fludyer-street has been taken down for the site of the new Govern- 
 ment offices. 
 
 Gardener' s-lane extends from Duke-street to King-street : here died, in 1677, Wen- 
 ceslaus Holhir, the celebrated engraver, aged 70, at the moment when he had an execu- 
 tion in his house ; he desired of the sheriff's officers " only the liberty of dying in his bed, 
 and that he might not be removed to any other prison but his grave " (Oldys). He 
 was buried in the New Chapel yard, near the place of his death ; and no monument 
 was erected to his memory. Hollar engraved 2400 prints, and worked for the book- 
 sellers at 4rf. per hour ; yet his finest prints bring rare prices. The GATEHOUSE is 
 described at p. 373. Great George-street, named from the House of Hanover, was 
 completed in 1750 : the site was an arm of the Thames, when the tide flowed up from 
 Bridge-street to the canal in St. James's Park. Here was Storey's Gate, named froin 
 Edward Storey, who constructed the decoys in St. James's Park for Charles II., and 
 who lived upon the site : this gate was taken down in 1854. At No. 15, Great 
 George-street, died Lord Chancellor Thurlow, 1806. At No. 25 (then Sir Edward 
 Knatchbull's) the body of Lord Byron lay in state two days, before it was removed, 
 July 12, 1824, for interment at Hucknall, Notts. No. 25, Great George-street, 
 has a handsome architectural front, and is now the Institution of Civil Engineers 
 (see LIBRARIES, p. 517 ; and MUSEUMS, p. 592). At No. 24 the Eeform Club was 
 commenced ; and here subsequently lived Alderman Sir Matthew Wood, Bart., M.P. 
 At the corner of the street, facing St. Margaret's Churchyard, is the magnificent 
 Buxton Memorial Drinking Fountain, described at p. 358. 
 
 Jforseferry (the) is described at p. 433. 
 
 James-street is described at p. 479. It was partly taken down in 1854 for the 
 Pimlico improvements, and the offices of the Duchy of Cornwall. 
 
 In 1763 there were but few houses in James-street, and none behind it; nor any filthy courts 
 betwen Petty France and the Park ; nor any buildings in Palmer's Village, or in Tothill-ficlds, or on 
 the Artillery-ground, or to the south of Market-street. Sardwell. 
 
 King-street was the principal street of Westminster temp. Henry VIII., with 
 Cockpit-gate at the north end, and High-gate south. Here the poet Spenser died 
 " for lake of bread," in an obscure lodging, Jan. 16, 1599 ; here also died Sir Thomas 
 Knevett, who seized Guy Fawkes. Cromwell lived here when member of Parliament, 
 north of Blue Boar's Head-yard. Dr. Sydenham lived upon the site of Ram's Mews. 
 Near the south end, on the west side, was Thieven- (Thieves) lane* the passage for 
 thieves to the Gatehouse prison, so that they might not escape into the Sanctuary. 
 The roadway was so bad, that faggots were thrown into the ruts to facilitate the passage 
 of the state-coach when the Sovereign went to Parliament. Here, at the Bell Tavern, 
 met the October (Queen Anne) Club. Here lodged the poet Carew, who wrote the 
 masque of Coelum Britannicum for Charles I. Through King-street, Elizabeth and 
 James and Charles I. proceeded to the Houses of Parliament in their state-coaches ; 
 and the republicans of Cromwell's days on foot and horseback. After the burning of 
 Whitehall Palace, a broader road was made by Parliament-street. Cromwell, when he 
 went to Ireland in 1649, took horse at his house in King-street. 
 
 Cromwell lived on the west side of the street, in a house, the precise situation of which is thus pre- 
 served in a communication to Cunningham's Handbook of London, 1850 : 
 
 upon the first flight of King James. He then made his way into Jeffreys' study, saw him, and pressed 
 for his money in very urgent terms. Jeffreys appeared all humble and much confused, made many 
 apologies for not settling the matter before, said he had many weighty affairs pressing on his mind at 
 that time ; but if he would call the Tuesday following it should be finally settled. The architect went 
 away after this promise: but between that and Tuesday, Jeffreys, in endeavouring to make his escape 
 from England, was found out, reviled, and much bruised by the populace." European Magazine, 1795, 
 p. 213. Part of the then "magnificent house" is No. 23, Duke-street, with passage and steps leading 
 to the chapel and park. There, after the terrible judge's sudden fall, as Macaulay tells us, the exultant 
 rabble congregated, and read on the door, with shouts of laughter, the bills which announced the sale 
 of his property. 
 
 * Thieven or Thieving-lane was also called Bow-street, from its bowed line 5 and Bow-street, Covcnt 
 Garden, to this day the terror of thieves.
 
 824 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 " Shortly before the great Trial, in 1838, between the parish of St. Margaret and the inhabitants of 
 Privy-gardens, a very rigid examination of the old parochial rate-books took place; and in one of them 
 Lieutenant-General Oliver Cromwell was found rated for a house in King-street, which was ascertained, 
 with as nrach certainty as the extensive alterations in the vicinity would admit, to be one of two very 
 ancient tenements lying between the north side of the gateway entrance to Blue Boar's Head-yard and 
 the wall of Rams'-mews ; and there was strong ground for believing that the two ancient tenements 
 had originally been one. These tenements, as well as the Slue Soar's Head public-house, situated on 
 the south side of the gateway, and a portion of the stable-yard behind, for a distance of about two or 
 three hundred feet from King-street, are the property of one of the colleges at Oxford. The public- 
 house (Blue Boar's Head), as rebuilt about 1750, is now (1850) standing." George H. Malone. 
 
 In the Cole MSS. in the British Museum is a copy of a letter of Cromwell to his wife from Dunbar, 
 Sept. 4, 1650, addressed to her in this street. 
 
 At the north end of King-street was built, by Henry VIII., the Westminster or King's 
 Gate, of stone, as a communication, by a passage over it, of Whitehall Palace with the 
 Park : it was of Tudor design, with four round-capped turrets : each front was 
 enriched with Ionic pilasters and an entablature, roses, the portcullis, and the royal 
 arms, and glazed biscuit-ware busts. In this Gatehouse lived the Earl of Rochester 
 and Herr von Auls : it was taken down in 1723. 
 
 ' Millbank-street, in 1745 called the High-street at Millbank, was named from the 
 Abbey water-mill, built by Nicholas Litlington, at the end of the present College- 
 street, and turned by the stream which flowed by the Infirmary garden-wall eastward 
 into the Thames (Walcotf). Upon the site of the mill was built Peterborough House, 
 by the first Earl of Peterborough, in the reign of Charles I., and shown in Hollar's Map 
 of London, 1708. Stow describes the mansion with a large front court, and fine gardens 
 behind ; " but its situation was bleak in winter, and not over-healthful." The house 
 was purchased by the Grosvenor family, and rebuilt : it was taken down in 1809. In the 
 middle of Millbank lived Mr. Vidler, the Government contractor : hence the mail-coach 
 procession started annually on the king's birthday. The Penitentiary, at Millbank, is 
 described at p. 697. In New-way, adjoining, was a chapel where Eomaine preached. 
 
 Palace-yard, New, is named from William Rufus's intended new palace, of which the 
 hall only was built ; here was a beautiful Conduit, removed temp. Charles II. Opposite 
 Westminster Hall gate, temp. Edward I., Lord Chief-Justice Hengham built a large 
 stone clock-tower, taken down 1698. In this yard King Edward I. appealed to the 
 loyalty of his people, from a platform erected against the front ol Westminster Hall, in 
 1297; here Perkin Warbeck was set in the stocks, in 1498; Stubbs, the Puritan 
 attorney, and his servant, had their hands cut off in New Palace-yard, in 1580, for a 
 libel against Queen Elizabeth ; and William Parry was here hung and quartered for 
 high treason, in 1578 ; here Lord Sanquhar was hanged for murder, 1612 ; Archbishop 
 Leighton's father was pilloried and publicly whipped for libel, 1630 ; William Prynne 
 was pilloried here, and his Histrio-Mastix burned, 1634 ; here the Duke of Hamilton, 
 the Earl of Holland, and Lord Capel, were put to death for treason, in 1649 ; Titus 
 Gates was pilloried here in 1685 ; and John Williams, in 1765, for publishing No. 45 
 of Wilkes's North Briton. Here was the 'lurk's Head, Miles's Coffee-house, where 
 the noted Rota Club met, whose republican opinions Harrington has glorified in his 
 Oceana. The Tudor buildings of the old Palace were principally taken down in 1793 ; 
 but a range, including the Star Chamber, on the eastern side of the court, were not 
 removed until 1836 : they are described at p. 450. At his official residence, east of 
 Westminster Hall porch, died William Godwin, the novelist, April 7, 1836, aged 81. 
 Palace-yard, Old, south-west of the Houses of Parliament, had on the west the old 
 Lady Chapel of the Abbey, and abutting upon, it the White Sose Tavern, and the 
 house of Chaucer, in which he died (the site is now occupied by the mausoleum of 
 Henry VII.) ; and in a house between the churchyard and the Old Palace died Ben 
 Jonson ; so that two cf England's greatest poets died almost upon the same spot. At 
 the south-east corner of Old Palace-yard stood the house through which the conspirators 
 in the Gunpowder Plot carried their barrels into the vault ; and in the Yard, Guy 
 Fawkes, Winter, Rookwood, and Keyes, suffered death in 1606. Here, 29th Oct. 1618, 
 Sir Walter Raleigh was executed at eight in the morning of Lord Mayor's Day, " so that 
 the pageants and fine shewes might draw away the people from beholding the tragedie 
 of one of the gallantest worthies that ever England bred." In the Pepysian Collection 
 at Cambridge is a Ballad with the following title : " Sir Walter Rauleigh his Lamenta- 
 tion, who was beheaded in the Old Pallace of Westminster the 29 of October 1618. 
 To the tune of Welladay." 
 
 >
 
 WESTMINSTER. 825 
 
 Palmer's Tillage, west of the Almonry, was a low-lying district (12J inches below 
 high-water mark), consisting of straggling cottages around the twelve almshouses built 
 in 1566 by the Rev. Edward Palmer, B.D., with a chapel and school attached. Forty 
 years since, here was an old wayside inn (the Prince of Orange), rows of cottages 
 with gardens, and the village-green, upon which the Maypole was annually set up : this 
 rurality has now disappeared, and with it from maps and plans the name of " Palmer's 
 Village." Park-street, built circ. 1708, northward from Carteret-street, making it 
 like a T, contains the house of Mr. Charles Townley, who, in 1772, assembled here his 
 first collection of marbles, terra-cottas, bronzes, &c., commenced in 1768 at Rome. 
 (See BRITISH MUSEUM, p. 579.) Mr. Townley died here 3rd January, 1805. The 
 house and collections are well described by J. T. Smith, in Nollekens and his Times, 
 vol. 5. pp. 261-266. " The late Royal Cockpit, which afforded Hogarth an excellent 
 scene for his humour, remained a next-door noisy nuisance to Mr. Townley for many 
 years." Petty France (Petit France, Hatton, 1708), and now York-street, from 
 Frederick Duke of York, son of George II., having temporarily resided here, extends 
 from Tothill-street to James-street. In Petty France was Milton's pleasant garden- 
 house, described at p. 654. Prince' s-street was formerly Long Ditch : here was an 
 ancient conduit, the site of which is now marked by a pump ; at the bottom of the 
 well is a black marble image of St. Peter, and some marble steps. The southern 
 extremity of this street was called Broken Cross : here, about the middle of last 
 century, was the most ancient house in Westminster. Upon the east side of the street 
 was built Her Majesty's New Stationery Office, in neat Italian style, in 1854, upon 
 the site of the Westminster Mews. In Prince' s-court, at the south end of the street, 
 lived the notorious politician, John Wilkes, in 1788. 
 
 Queen-square is described at p. 751. In Queen-street was born, in 1642, James 
 Tyrrell (a grandson of Archbishop Ussher) ; he wrote a History of England, 3 vols. 
 folio, valuable for its exact references to the ancient chronicles. 
 
 Rochester-row is named from the Bishops of Rochester, who were also Deans of 
 Westminster. Here are Emery Hill's Almshouses; and opposite are the Church of St. 
 Stephen, and Schools, built and endowed by the munificence of Miss Angela Burdett 
 Coutts. (See p. 203.) 
 
 Sanctuary (the) of Westminster Abbey is described as the space by St. Margaret's 
 churchyard, between the old Gatehouse S.W., and King-street N.E. The right of 
 sanctuary i.e., protection to criminals and debtors from arrest was retained by West- 
 minster after the Dissolution in 1540; and "sanctuary men" were allowed to use a 
 whittle only at their meals, and compelled to wear a badge. The privilege of sanctuary 
 caused the houses within the precinct to let for high rents ; but it was totally abolished 
 by James I. in 1623 : it is called by Fabyan, " the Seyntwary before the Abbey." 
 Here were two cruciform churches, built one above the other, the lower a double cross ; 
 the upper, the Rev. Mr. Walcott thinks, for the debtors and inhabitants of the Broad 
 and the Little Sanctuaries; the lower for criminals. "They could not leave the 
 precinct without the Dean's licence, or between sunset and sunrise." In Little 
 Sanctuary was the Three Tuns Tavern, built upon part of the church vaults, which 
 served as the inn-cellar. The tower of the church, rebuilt by Edward II., contained 
 three bells, the ringing of which " sowered all the drinke in the town." The church 
 was demolished in 1750. Fifty years later was removed from Broad Sanctuary the 
 old market-house, built in 1568 ; and .upon the site was erected, in 1805, the present 
 Guildhall, with a Doric vestibule, S. P. Cockerell architect. Here also are the Office 
 and Central Schools of the National Society ; the Westminster Hospital, built 1833. 
 The Sanctuary churches are dt scribed by Dr. Stukeley, who remembered their standing 
 (ArchcBologia, \. p. 39). There were other sanctuaries in London ; but the Westminster 
 site alone retains its ancient name. 
 
 Here Judge Tresilian (temp. Richard II.) fled, but was dragged to Tyburn and hanged. In 1441, 
 Eleanor Cobham, Duchess of Gloucester, accused of witchcraft and treason, was denied refuge. In 
 1460, Lord Scales, as he was seeking sanctuary here, was murdered on the Thames. Elizabeth 
 Woodville, queen of Edward IV., and her family, escaped from the Tower, and registered themselves 
 " sanctuary women ;" and here, " in great penury, i jrsaken of all friends," she gave birth to Edward V. 
 More describes her sitting " alow on the rushes," in her grief. The Register of the Sanctuary, Gough 
 states, was bought out of Sir Henry Spelman's Collection, by Wanley, the antiquary, for Lord Wey- 
 mouth, and is preserved in the library at Longleat.
 
 826 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The vacant ground was let, in 1821, to speculators in seats to view the coronation- 
 procession of George IV., upon a raised platform, from Westminster Abbey to West- 
 minster Hall. In 1854 was built, adjoining the west end of the Abbey, a block of 
 houses in the Medieval style, G. G. Scott, R.A., architect ; the centre opening being the 
 entrance to Dean's-yard. Here is the same architect's picturesque Memorial to 
 the " Old Westminsters" who perished in the Crimean War. 
 
 Tothill Fields, between Pimlico and the Thames, anciently the manor of Tothill, 
 belonged to John Maunsel, chancellor, who, in 1256, entertained here Henry III. and 
 his court, at a vast feast in tents and pavilions. The Normans called this district tout 
 le champ, which is thought to have been clipped into tout le, and then corrupted into 
 toutle and Tot-hill. (Bardwell.) It occurs, however, in an ancient lease as Toot-hill 
 or Beacon Field,* which Mr. Hudson Turner suggested to Mr. Cunningham as the 
 probable origin. The Rev. Mr. Walcott restricts it within the Sanctuary of the Abbey. 
 At the Tothill were decided wagers of battle and appeals by combat, Necromancy, 
 sorcery, and witchcraft were punished here j and " royal solemnities and goodly jousts 
 were held here." In Culpepper's time the fields were famous for parsley. In 1642 
 a battery and breastwork were here erected. Here were built the " Five Houses," or 
 " Seven Chimneys," as pest-houses for victims to the Plague ; and in 1665 the dead 
 were buried " in the open Tuttle Fields." The Fields are described as of great use, 
 pleasure, and recreation to the king's scholars and neighbours; and in 1672 the parish 
 made here a new Maze, which was " much frequented in summer time in fair after- 
 noons." (Aubrey.) In Queen Anne's reign, here was William Well's bear-garden, 
 npon the site of Vincent-square. St. Edward's fair was removed from St. Margaret's 
 churchyard to Tothill Fields, 34 Hen. III., who granted the Abbot of Westminster 
 " leave to keepe a markette in the Tuthill every Munday, and a faire every yeare for 
 three days ;" and Edward III. granted a fair of thirty-one days. Both fairs were sup- 
 pressed by James I. Here, in 1651, the Trained Bauds were drawn out ; and in the 
 same year, Heath's Chronicle records the Scotch prisoners " driven like a herd of swine 
 through Westminster to Tuthill Fields, and there sold to several merchants, and sent 
 to the Barbadoes." One of " the Civil War Tracts of Lancashire," printed by the 
 Chetham Society, states there were " 4000 Scots, Highlands, or Redshanks," many 
 with their wives and bairns, of whom 1200 were buried in Tuttle Fields. The fields next 
 became a noted duel-ground : here, in 1711, Sir Cholmeley Dering, M.P., was killed 
 by the first shot of Mr. Richard Thornhill, who was tried for murder and acquitted, 
 but found guilty of manslaughter, and was burnt in the hand. Here also was an 
 ancient Bridewell (see p. 704). 
 
 Tothill-street, extending from Broad Sanctuary to York-street, has lost most of its 
 picturesque old houses. In Tothill-street lived the Bishop of Chester, 1488 ; William 
 Lord Grey of Wilton, " the greatest soldier of the nobility," died 1563 ; Sir George 
 Carew, at Caron House, 1612 j and Lincoln House was the Office of the Revels, 1664. 
 Southerne, the dramatic poet, lived ten years at No. 56, then as now, an oilman's : it 
 bears the date 1671. Betterton, the actor, was born in this street. In the reign of 
 Elizabeth, the houses on the north side had gardens extending to the Park ; and those 
 on the south to Orchard-street, once the or chard- gar den of the Abbey. Here, in 1789, 
 died, aged 97, Thomas Amory, who wrote the Memoirs of John Buncle. Of the 
 Fleece public-house, No. 70, a token exists, date 1666. The old Cock public-house, 
 taken down in 1853, is described at p. 453. Tttfton-street was built by Sir Richard 
 Tufton (d. 1631) : here was a cock -pit, which existed long after that in St. James's 
 Park was deserted. 
 
 Victoria-street, commenced by the Westminster Improvement Commission in 1845, 
 extends across the sites of the Almonry, Orchard-street, Duck-lane, New Pye-street, 
 and part of Old Pye-street (named from Sir Robert Pye, who resided here), to Strutton- 
 ground, named from Stourton-house, the mansion of the Lords Dacre of the South. 
 Thence the new street crosses Artillery-place, through Palmer's Village, on the north 
 side of Westminster Bridewell, past Elliot's Brewery, to Shaftesbury-terrace, Pimlico. 
 Victoria-street is above 1000 yards, or nearly five furlongs in length, and 80 feet wide : 
 
 * Others refer it to Toote Hill, shown iu Eocque's map (1746), just at a bend in the Horseferry-road, 
 but uow lost iu the adjacent made ground
 
 WESTMINSTER HALL. 827 
 
 the houses are 82 feet in height ; Henry Ashton architect. The ornamentation of the 
 house-fronts, worked in cement, is extremely artistic : the interiors are mostly arranged 
 in flats, as in Edinburgh and Paris.' In the line of street are the three churches of 
 St. Mark, the Holy Trinity, and Christchurch ; and at the north-west rear is St. 
 Andrew's Church, in the Geometrical style ; the nave aisles showing five gables on each 
 side, filled with large and lofty windows; architect, G. G. Scott, R.A. 
 
 Vine-street denotes the site of a vineyard, probably that of the Abbey. In the 
 overseer's book, 1565, is rated " the vyne-garden " and " my 11," next to Bowling-alley ; 
 the vine-garden called " because, perhaps, vines anciently were there nourished, and 
 wine made." (Stow,) In Edward VI.'s time it was inclosed with buildings. ^Bowling- 
 street and alley denote the site of the green where the members of the convent played 
 at bowls. Opposite Bowling-alley is a house where the notorious Colonel Blood died, 
 Aug. 24, 1680 : upon the house-front was a shield with a coat of arms. ( Walcott.) 
 
 Wood-street, described in 1720 as " very narrow, being old boarded hovels ready to 
 fall," has disappeared. Here lived John Carter, the diligent antiquary. At 13, North- 
 street, lived Elliston, the comedian, who dearly loved his art : " wherever Elliston walked, 
 sat, or stood still, there was the theatre.''^ Lamb. 
 
 Woolstaple (the) was, in 1353, appointed for weighing all the wool brought to 
 London. The Long Staple (upon the site of Bridge-street) consisted of a strong round 
 tower and a water-gate, which was destroyed to make room for the western abutment 
 of Westminster Bridge, in 1741. Here was St. Stephen's Hospital, founded by Henry 
 VIII. in 1548, and removed in 1745, when eight almshouses were rebuilt in St. Anne's- 
 lane, inscribed " Woolstaple Pensioners, 1741." In 1628, in the overseers' books of 
 St. Margaret's, is rated in the Woolstaple, " Orlando Gibbons, ijd." 
 
 WESTMINSTER ABBEY. In 1867, a Parliamentary return showed that the Dean and Chapter of 
 Westminster devote to the maintenance of the fabric of the Abbey one-fifteenth part of the whole 
 divisible income of the capitular body, together with the fees received for monuments placed in the 
 Abbey, and the profits derived from the sale of timber on the capitular estates. In the last six years 
 the funds thus devoted to the fabric averaged 3412J. a year. In the same six years the money taken at 
 the Abbey for the admission of persons to view the Royal tombs and private chapels averaged 12921. 
 a year. This has been applied first in payments to the High Constable and to the guides who show the 
 tombs and chapels, and there has been an average annual surplus of T251. a year, which has been 
 applied to ornamental improvements of the Abbey. The charge for viewing the tombs and chapels is 
 6rf. for each person. The transepts and the great nave of the Abbey are open free to the public 
 all day. 
 
 WESTMINSTEB ABBEY is described at pp. 117-140. 
 
 WESTMINSTER HALL 
 
 WAS originally added to the ancient Palace at Westminster by William Kufus, who 
 held his first court herein, 1099. In 1394-9 Richard II. had its walls heightened 
 two feet, the windows altered, and a new timber roof constructed, from the design of 
 Henry de Yeveley, who was master-mason to three successive kings, and to Westmin- 
 ster Abbey. During the repairs of 1835 the work of the two kings (William IT. and 
 Richard II.) was distinguishable, including a Norman arcade connecting the clerestory 
 windows. The exterior is of modern design, except the north porch and window, 
 which, with the internal stone-work (except the south end), is one of our earliest speci- 
 mens of the Perpendicular style, and is thought to have been the work of William of 
 Wykeham. The original walls (chiefly rubble and grout-work) were then cased 1 foot 
 V inches thick with stone, flying buttresses were erected as abutments on the east and 
 west sides, and the embattled flanking towers and porch of the north front added : the 
 towers were restored 1819-22. The roof was originally covered with lead ; for which, 
 on account of its immense weight, slates were substituted. The lantern, of cast-iron, is 
 an exact copy of the original one erected near the end of the 14th century : it is glazed. 
 The interior dimensions of Westminster Hall are 239 feet by 68, and 42 feet high. 
 The immense timber- framed roof is one of the finest existing examples of scientific con- 
 struction in carpentry; its only bearing being at the extremities of the great ribs, 
 which abut against the side walls, and rest upon twenty-six sculptured stone corbels. 
 At half this height the timber arches spring from the stone string-course, sculptured 
 with the white hart couchant under a tree, and other devices of Richard II. ; so that
 
 828 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 the upper half of the height of the edifice is entirely of timber (oak), unrivalled for its 
 accurately moulded detail. 
 
 A record in St. Michan's Church, verified by Hanmer's Chronicle, in the library of Trinity College, 
 I)ublin, states that the roof over Westminster Hall was constructed with timber procured from the 
 site of this church; and clumps of trees have been found during recent excavations. The record 
 states : " The faire greene or commune, now called Ostomontowne-greene, was all wood, and hee that 
 diggeth at this day to any depth shall linde the grounde full of great rootes. From thence, anno 1098, 
 King William Rufus, by license of Murchard, had that frame which made up the roofes of Westminster 
 Hall, where no English spider webbeth or breedeth to this day." Proc. Royal Institute Irish Architects. 
 Loudon, however, states the roof to be of British oak, guercus sessiflora, which is so deficient in grain 
 as not to be distinguishable, at first sight, from chestnut. 
 
 The hammer-beams are sculptured with angels hearing shields of the arms of Richard II. 
 or Edward the Confessor, which show the excellence that sculpture in wood had 
 attained in England so early as the fourteenth century. From the roof were formerly 
 hung " guidons, colours and standards, ensigns and trophies of victory ;" in Hatton's 
 time (1708), 138 colours and 34 standards, from the battles of Naseby and Worcester, 
 Preston and Dunbar, and Blenheim : Hatton describes fourteen, with their mottoes 
 Englished. The roof was thoroughly repaired in 1820-21, when forty loads of oak, 
 from old ships broken up in Portsmouth Dockyard, were used in renewing decayed 
 parts, and completing the portion at the north end, where it had been left unfinished j 
 the roof was also greatly strengthened by tension-rods added to the principals in 1851. 
 Abutting on the southern end was the Galilee, finished by Edward III., and adapted 
 by Richard II. with a flight of steps to the approach from the Great Hall to the Chapel 
 of St. Stephen and the principal chambers of the Palace. Above the side line of windows 
 are dormers (added in 1820-21), which improve the chiaroscuro ; and above are aper- 
 tures, opened in 1843, to aid the effect of an Exhibition of Cartoons. The Hall now 
 forms the vestibule to the new Houses of Parliament; which Sir Charles Barry 
 effected by removing the large window from the south end to form an archway to St. 
 Stephen's Porch, wherein he fixed the Hall window, with an additional transom and 
 row of lights. (See St . Stephen's Porch, p. 662.) 
 
 The statues by John Thomas, flanking the archway in the Hall, are : 
 
 Sir Charles Barry contemplated raising the roof fourteen feet, closing the doors of 
 the Law Courts, and decorating the walls with frescoes, &c. The heraldic decorations 
 of the corbels and string-course are described by Mr. Willement in the Collectanea 
 Topogr. et Gen. vol. iii. p. 55 ; and the architectural discoveries in 1835 are detailed 
 by Mr. Sydney Smirke in Archceologia, vols. xxvi. and xxvii. 
 
 The floor of the Hall, from its low level, was occasionally flooded by the Thames. 
 Holinshed mentions two floods in the reign of Henry III., in 1237, when he says boats 
 might have been rowed up and down ; and in 1242, when no one could get into the 
 Hall except they were set on horseback. He records another, 1555, when the Hall 
 was flooded " unto the stairfoot, going to the Chancerie and King's Bench, so that 
 when the Lord Maior of London should come to present the Sheriffs to the Barons 
 of the Exchequer, all Westminster Hall was full of water." Also, in 1579, when the 
 water rose so high in the Hall " that, after the fall thereof, some fishes were found 
 there to remain." Stow. These visitations were repeated in the last century, in 
 1735 and 1791, and to some extent even so lately as 1841. 
 
 The kings held their courts, or, as it was called, " wore their crowns," at the time 
 of the Conquest, and long after, but not in Westminster Hall until the reign of 
 Henry II. By a clause in Magna Charta, 15th June, 1215, it was declared that 
 " Common Pleas shall not follow the Court, but shall be held in some certain place/' 
 doubtless Westminster Hall; and when the Aula Regia was abolished, the present 
 arrangement of the Courts of Chancery, King's Bench, and Exchequer, as well as the 
 Common Pleas, was established, with separate Judges appointed to preside over each 
 Court. (Foss.)
 
 WESTMINSTER HALL. 829 
 
 " In the reign of Charles I., the King's Servants, by his Majestie's special order, went to West- 
 minster Hall in Term-time, to invite gentlemen to eat of the King's Acates or Viands ; and in Parlia- 
 meut-time, to invite the Parliament men thereunto." Delaune's Anglice Metropolis, 1690. 
 
 " The Hall itself was also occasionally used as a high court of criminal justice for the 
 solemn trials before the peers of great delinquents, impeached by the House of Com- 
 mons. One of the earliest, of which there is a particular account, is that against 
 Michael de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk, Chief Justice Tresilian, and others, in the reign of 
 Richard II., which king himself was deposed by the Parliament in this same Hall. In 
 subsequent times these trials often took place before commissioners appointed from 
 among the peers, assisted by some of the judges and other commoners. Sir Thomas 
 More and Bishop Fisher were tried in this manner ; but it is doubtful whether the 
 Great Hall was used on these occasions, or only the Court of King's Bench. Queen 
 Anne Boleyn's trial took place in the hall on a ' scaffold ' there erected. There is a 
 print of Westminster Hall as it was prepared for the trial of the Earl of Strafford in 
 1640, in which the Queen is portrayed as looking out of her cupboard upon a scene 
 in which her royal consort was a few years after to appear as a condemned prisoner." 
 W. Foss ; Paper read to the Archceological Institute, 1866. 
 
 Memorable Trials in Westminster Hall. 1305, Sir William Wallace condemned for treason (in 
 Rufus's Hall); 1417, Sir John Oldcastle the Wickliffite; 1522, Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, for 
 treason ; 1535, Sir Thomas More arraigned here ; 1551, the Protector Somerset brought to trial, with 
 " bills, halberts, and pole-axes attending him," the clamour of the people " heard to the Long Acre 
 beyond Charing Crosse;" 1554, Sir Thomas Wyat; 1557, Lord Stourton, for murder; 1600, Kobert 
 Devereux, Earl of Essex; 1606, Guy Fawkes and his fellow-conspirators; 1616, the profligate Earl and 
 Countess of Somerset, for the murder of Sir Thomas Overbury; 1640 (18 days' trial), Wentworth, Earl 
 of Straftbrd, before Charles I. and his queen; 1649, King Charles I. (in 1661, the Act for the King's 
 Trial was burned by the common hangman in the Hall while the court was sitting) ; 1688, the Seven 
 Bishops; 1710, Dr. Sacheverell; 1716, Viscount Kenmure and the Earl of Derwentwater ; 1746-47, the 
 rebel Lords Kilmarnock, Balmerino, and Lovat; 1760, Earl Ferrers, for murder; 1776, the Duchess of 
 Kingston, for bigamy ; 1788 to 1795, Warren Hastings's seven years' trial ; 1806, Lord Melville. 
 
 Parliaments assembled in this Hall as early as 1248 (33 Henry III.) and 1265 
 (49 Henry III.), the latter being the first representation of the people in its present 
 form. 
 
 By a curious conjunction, one and the same person in the early reigns held the two 
 offices of Warden of the Palace of Westminster and Warden of the Fleet Prison. Two 
 records, of the 12th and 24th Edward III., show that there were then stalls for mer- 
 chandize in, and stables under, Westminster Hall ; and that the holder of those offices 
 was allowed to take for his profit 8d. per annum for each stall and stable, and 4rf. for 
 each stall only. By a " rental " of 38 Henry VI., the rents of shops varied from 2s. 
 to 3s. 4d. a term ; and the " goers in the Halle," as they were called, were charged 
 from 4.d. to I2d. for the same period. The shops or stalls (resembling those in Exeter 
 Change) are shown in the picture by Gravelot, painted in the reign of George II. 
 
 " Ranged along the left side, as you enter, are shops of booksellers, mathematical instrument makers, 
 haberdashers, and sempstresses. At the further end of the Hall are the two Courts of King's Bench 
 on the left, and of the Chancery on the right, divided by a flight of steps which led to the entrances of 
 both. In the print these Courts are inclosed to a certain height, but not covered, so that the noise in 
 the Hall, and the flirtations of the barristers and attorneys with the sempstresses, must have occa- 
 sionally disturbed the arguments of the counsel, and disarranged the gravity of the Judges. On the 
 right side is the same array of shops, except where it is interrupted by the Court of Common Pleas, 
 which projects into the Hall, and is similarly inclosed and uncovered. On both sides of the Hall, above 
 the shops and the Court of Common Pleas, was a continuous display of banners, which at the date of 
 the picture were probably those taken at the battle of Blenheim, and the other victories of Maryborough. 
 The Court of Common Pleas was subsequently removed to the outside of the Hall, and the inclosure of 
 the two other Courts was completed and carried up to the roof, and thus divided from the exterior 
 noise and racket. Counters and stalls for books (at one time sold by poor scholars of Westminster 
 between school-hours), as well as other merchandize, were to be seen here in term-time, and during 
 the session of Parliament, even in the beginning of the reign of George III. The Courts of Chancery 
 and King's Bench are removed, with the other courts, to more convenient sites on the western exterior 
 of the Hall, with entrances into it. Thus, the edifice is now little more than a magnificent vestibule to 
 them and to the two Houses of Parliament, and a place of congregation for lawyers and their clients 
 when attending the Courts during term time." Mr. Foss, ut tupra. 
 
 Archbishop Laud, in his Diary, records that on Sunday, February 20, 1630-1, the 
 Hall was found on fire, " by the burning of the little shops or stalls kept therein. It 
 was soon extinguished, and the damage quickly repaired." In the Great Fire of 1834, 
 by which the Parliament Houses were destroyed, the noble hall was saved by the 
 favourable direction of the wind. At the Great Fire of 1666, the Hall was filled with 
 " the people's goods," for safety.
 
 830 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 After great part of the Palace was burnt in 1512, only the Great Hall was kept in 
 repair ; " and it serveth, as before it did, for feasts of coronations, arraignments of 
 great persons charged with treasons, keeping of the courts of justice, &c." (Stow.) 
 Hither came 411 of the rioters of Evil May-day, 1517, each with a halter about his 
 neck, crying to the king upon his throne for mercy ; when " the general pardon being 
 pronounced, all the prisoners showted at once, and cast their halters towards the roof 
 of the Hall." (Stow.) 
 
 Here Cromwell was inaugurated Lord Protector, 26th June, 1657, upon an elevated 
 platform at the south end of the Hall, in the ancient coronation-chair, " under a prince- 
 like canopy of state," with the Bible, sword, and sceptre of the Commonwealth before 
 him : the Protector entering the Hall, with the Lord Mayor bearing the City sword 
 before him. On May 8th, 1660, King Charles II. was proclaimed at " Westminster 
 Hall Gate." Upon the south gable were set up the heads of Cromwell, Ireton, and 
 Bradshaw : Cromwell's head remained 20 years. 
 
 " Abutting on the west side of Westminster Hall, and in part beneath it, were " certain places 
 designated Hell, Purgatory, and Paradise, names that seem to indicate that they were appropriated, as 
 two of them certainly were, to the confinement of delinquents, according to the varied degrees of 
 
 gnnishment for their respective offences. We see from the illuminations of the Courts lately published 
 i the 39th volume of the Archasologia, which are attributed to the reign of Henry VI., that at the bars 
 of the three Courts of King's Bench, Common Pleas, and Exchequer, certain prisoners are represented, 
 and their place of incarceration might probably be in one or the other of these cells. Some have 
 thought that these extraordinary names were suggested by the titles of the three parts of Dante's 
 Dimna Commedi-a ; but at least one of the names occurs in the reign of Henry III., before Dante 
 was born. In the original accounts of the expenses in that reign, occurs : ' Door of Hell, in the 
 Exchequer.' This is followed by another, to which the former probably applies : ' House called Holle 
 under the Exchequer.' A third place named in the list may perhaps be the same which afterwards 
 went by the name of Paradise or Heaven : ' Le Godeshouse, in the receipt of the Exchequer.' What- 
 ever were the uses to which these places were originally applied, the custody of them was made a 
 source of emolument, and was granted to the ' squires of the king's body,' and other favourites." 
 Paper by Mr. Foss, ut ante, abridged. 
 
 Hell, Purgatory, and Paradise, and another building called " Heaven," were subse- 
 quently converted from cells of confinement into taverns, which were much frequented 
 by lawyers' clerks. In Ben Jonson's Alchemist, Dapper is forbidden to " break his 
 fast in Heaven and Hell." 
 
 " False Heaven at the end o' th' Hall." Hudibras. 
 
 Pepys records dining at Heaven, and spending the evening in one of these taverns with 
 Lock and Purcell, and hearing Lock's new canon, Domine salvum fac Jlegem. " The 
 prison-keys of Purgatory, attached to a leather girdle, are still preserved." (Walcott's 
 Westminster, p. 221.) Here were kept the " ducking-stools," with which the bur- 
 gesses of Westminster (by statute 27 Elizabeth) were empowered to punish common 
 scolds, &c. Heaven and Purgatory were taken down about 1741, and Hell about 
 1793. 
 
 For the preparation of the Coronation banquets, the courts, when within the Hall, 
 were removed, and the shops and stalls boarded over. A petition of the shopkeepers 
 in the reign of George I. prays that, as their shops are boarded up for the ceremony of 
 the Coronation, the leads and the outsides of the windows of the west side of the Hall 
 may be granted for their use and advantage. Strype describes, at the upper end of 
 the Hall, a long marble stone, 12 feet in length and three feet in breadth; also a 
 marble chair, where the Kings of England formerly sat at their Coronation dinners, 
 and at other solemn times the Lord Chancellor ; but not to be seen, being built over by 
 the two Courts of Chancery and King's Bench. 
 
 Edward I. held here his Coronation feast, for which the Hall was whitewashed. 
 
 At the Coronation feast of Richard II. (July 16, 1377), Sir John Dymock, as 
 successor of the Marmions, and in right of his wife, Margaret de Ludlow, claiming the 
 privilege by his tenure of the manor of Scrivelsby, in Lincolnshire, having chosen the 
 best charger save one in the king's stables, arid the best suit of armour save one in the 
 royal armoury, rode in, armed to the teeth, and challenged, as the king's champion, all 
 opposers of the young monarch's title to the crown; this picturesque ceremony was 
 last performed at the coronation of George IV. 
 
 Haydon, the historical painter, describes the Coronation Festival 'of George IV. (Autobiography, 
 vol. ii.), which he witnessed from the Chamberlain's box : " The Hall doors were opened, and the
 
 WHITECHAPEL. 831 
 
 flower-girls entered, strewing flowers. The distant trumpets and shouts of the people, the slow march, 
 and at last the appearance of the King, crowned and under a golden canopy, and the universal burst of 
 
 the assembly at seeing him, affected everybody After the banquet was over came the most 
 
 imposing scene of all, the championship. Wellington, in his coronet, walked down the. Hall, cheered 
 by the officers of the Guards. He shortly returned, mounted, with Lords Anglesea and Howard. They 
 rode gracefully to the foot of the throne, and then backed out. The Hall doors opened again ; and 
 outside, in twiliaht, a man in dark-shadowed armour appeared against the shining sky. "" He then 
 moved, passed into darkness under the arch, and suddenly Wellington, Howard, and the champion 
 stood in full view, with doors closed behind them. This was certainly the finest sight of the day. 
 The herald then read the challenge : the glove was thrown down. They all then proceeded to the 
 throne." 
 
 The coronation of George IV., in the Abbey, is described at p. 133 ; and the cere- 
 mony and the banquet in the admirable letter by Sir Walter Scott. The bill of fare of 
 the banquet in the Hall is printed in Mr. Kirwan's very interesting Host and 
 Guest, and is as follows : 
 
 Hot Dishes. 160 tureens of soup ; 80 of turtle; 40 of rice; 40 of vermicelli; 80 dishes of turbot; 
 40oftrout; 40 of salmon; 80 dishes of venison; 40 of roast beef; 3 barons of beef; 40 dishes of mutton 
 and veal; 160 dishes of vegetables ; 4SO sauce boats; 240 lobsters; 120 of butter; 120 of mint. Cold 
 Dishes. 80 of braised ham ; 80 of savoury pies ; 80 of geese, d la daube, two in each dish ; 80 of 
 savoury cakes; 80 of braised beef; 80 of braised capons, two in each dish; 1190 side dishes ; 320 of 
 mounted pastry ; 400 of jellies and creams ; tO of lobsters ; 80 of cray-fish ; 161 of roast fowls ; 80 of 
 house lamb. 
 
 Total Quantitifi.Heef, 7442 Ibs.; veal, 7133 Ibs.; mutton, 2474 Ibs.; house lamb, 20 quarters; 
 legs of ditto, 20 ; lamb, 5 saddles ; grass lamb, 65 quarters ; lamb sweetbreads, 160 ; cow-heels, 389 ; 
 calves' feet, 400; suet, 250 Ibs. ; geese, 160; pullet? and capons, 720; chickens, 1010; fowls for stock, 
 620; bacon, 1730 Ibs. ; lard, 550 Ibs. ; butter, 912 U*. ; eggs, 8400. 
 
 The Wines. Champagne, 100 doz. ; Burgundy, 20 doz. ; claret, more than 200 doz. ; hock, 50 doz. ; 
 Moselle, 60 doz. ; Madeira, 50 doz. ; sherry and port, about 350 doz. ; iced punch, 100 gallons. 
 
 Dessert. The glut of fruit was unprecedented : a gentleman of Lambeth cut 60 ripe pine-apples on 
 the occasion ; and many hundreds of pines, remarkable for size and flavour, were sent from all parts of 
 the country; one from Lord Cawdor's weighed 10 Ibs., and formed part of the royal dessert. The 
 expenses of the above Banquet and the Coronation together amounted to more than 268,0002. The 
 Coronation (crowning only no banquet) of William IV. did not cost 50,000?. 
 
 Besides the Coronation Banquets, we have record of many others from the earliest time. On New- 
 Year's Day, 1236, King Henry the Third feasted 6000 poor men, women, and children. In 1241 the 
 same King sumptuously entertained there the Pope's Legate and his nobility ; and again in 1243 he 
 celebrated there the nuptials of his brother, Richard, Earl of Cornwall, with a banquet, at which it ia 
 said there were no less than 30,000 dishes, though where room was found for them it is difficult to 
 imagine. When the repairs of the Hall were completed in 1399, King Eichard the Second is recorded 
 to have plentifully entertained 10,000 in it : it is cautiously noted, " in other rooms of the palace ;" 
 for it is clear that the guests would not otherwise have had elbow-room. Fabyan relates in his 
 Chronicle that Henry the Seventh, in the ninth year of his reign, kept a royal feast there ; and the same 
 King used the Hall for certain entertainments under the name of " disguisyngs," which were exhibited 
 to the people at Christmas ; and we have the following proof that they were provided or assisted by 
 the Government. An entry occurs in the Issue Roll of a payment of 28t. 3s. 5f <2. (a large sum in those 
 days) to Richard Doland, " for providing certain spectacles or theatres, commonly called scaffolds," 
 for these performances. 
 
 Westminster Hall is called the Great Sail, to distinguish it from the Little or 
 Lesser Hall, the House of Commons after the fire of 1834. The Great Hall is erro- 
 neously stated to be the widest in Europe without any intermediate support, for 
 there are two roofs in Italy which surpass it. The next largest ancient apartment in 
 England is the dormitory attached to the great monastery of Durham. 
 
 In the hall have been found, in a crevice of the masonry of the old walls, the leather 
 sheath of a knife, stamped with fleurs-de-lis and with lions passant, together with a 
 quantity of bones, &c., remnants of the royal feasts held in the hall, and which had 
 probably, together with the sheath, been dragged into the holes and crevices by rats 
 and mice. 
 
 WHITECHAPEL, 
 
 " A VERY extraordinary spacious street, between Whitechapel Bars (to which the 
 El- freedom reaches) W., and the road to Mile-end E." (Hatton, 1708). It was, 
 until the construction of the Eastern Counties Railway, the great Essex road : hence 
 its numerous inns, some with old gallericd yards. Upon the south side, west end, 
 among the butchers' shops, is No. 76, a picturesque house-front, bearing the Prince of 
 Wales's feathers and H. S. (Henry Stuart), the arms of Westminster, the fleur-de-lis 
 of France, and the thistle of Scotland. On the north side was a prison for debtors, in 
 the manor of Stepney, under the sum of 51., of which there is in the Beaufoy Collec- 
 tion a Token, 1656 ; also a Whitechapel pawnbroker's Token, thought to be unique 
 Defoe lived here in safety during the Great Plague year j and he describes the richer sort
 
 832 CUEIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 of people thronging out of town from the City by this road, with their families and ser- 
 vants. Whitechapel has been sanitarily improved by the furnaces of the factories con- 
 suming their own smoke. In Wentworth-street are the Model Baths and Wash-houses, 
 established 1845. St. Mary's Church, Whitechapel, is described at p. 146, Here 
 was the offensive altar-piece, painted by W. Fellowes, in which Judas the traitor 
 greatly resembled Dean Kennet (see the print in the Society of Antiquaries' Library) : 
 the picture, now in St. Albans Abbey-church, is attributed to Sir James Thornhill. 
 In Colchester-street, Leman-street, in 1854, was burnt the house No. 1, built 16S7, 
 and noted as the rendezvous of Claude Duval, the highwayman. Near the lower end 
 of Whitechapel-lane was a Eoman cemetery, in which was found, in 1776, a monu- 
 mental stone inscribed to a soldier of the 24th legion. In 1854, there was living in 
 the Whitechapel-road a corn-dealer aged 107, active in business as a man of 60. At 
 No. 267, Whitechapel-road, is the Bell-foundry of Chas. and Geo. Hears, where have 
 been cast many thousands of single bells : they have often 30 tons of molten metal in 
 their furnaces. Here were cast, in 1835, " the New Great Tom of Lincoln," 5 tons 
 8 cwt.; the Great Bell of Montreal, 13 tons 10 cwt.; Great Peter of York, 11 tons; 
 the bells of the New Royal Exchange, &c. And here was re-cast the Great Bell for 
 Westminster clock, " St. Stephen," described at p. 44. 
 
 WHITEFRIAES, 
 
 THE streets, lanes, and alleys between Water-lane (now Whitefriars-street) and the 
 Temple, and Fleet-street and the Thames ; formerly the site of the house and 
 gardens of a convent of Carmelites, or White Friars, founded by Sir Richard Gray in 
 1241, upon ground given by King Edward I. The church was rebuilt by Hugh 
 Courtenay, Earl of Devon, about 1350 ; and Robert Marshall, Bishop of Hereford, 
 about 1420, added the steeple, as shown in the Sutherland View of London, 1543. 
 Stow gives a long list of benefactors and nobles buried in the church. At the Refor- 
 mation, the chapter-house was given by Henry VIII. to his physician, Dr. Butts. In 
 the next reign, the church, with its stately tombs, was demolished ; and in its place 
 were " many fair houses built, lodgings for noblemen and others" (Stow). Here lived 
 Sir John Cheke, Tutor and Secretary of State to Edward VI. The hall or refectory 
 of the dissolved monastery was used as the Whitefriars Theatre. The precinct had 
 long possessed the privileges of Sanctuary, which were confirmed by charter of James I. 
 in 1608 ; hence it became the asylum of characterless debtors, cheats, and gamblers, 
 here protected from arrest : it acquired the cant name of " Alsatia," and is the scene 
 of Shadwell's Squire of Alsatia, the characters of which " dare not stir out of White- 
 fryers :" one of its cant-named portions, Lombard-street (its " lewd women" were 
 complained of by the Friars in the reign of E'ward III.), exists to this day ; as does 
 Lombard-street in the Southwark Mint. Poets and players were attracted to White- 
 friars by the contiguous theatre in Dorset Gardens: dancing-masters and fencing- 
 masters flocked here ; and here, in the reign of James I., Turner the fencing -master 
 was assassinated by two ruffians hired by Lord Sanquhar, whose eye Turner had put out 
 during a fencing lesson several years before, but he had been forgiven the accident. 
 The two assassins were hanged opposite Whitefriars gates in Fleet-street ; and Lord 
 Sanquhar was hanged in Old Palace-yard. In the Friary-house, Selden lived with 
 Elizabeth, Countess-dowager of Kent, who bequeathed him the mansion : he died here, 
 Nov. 30, 1654, and was buried in the Temple Church. The finest edition of Selden's 
 works, by Wilkins, 3 vols. folio, was printed in Whitefriars by William Bowyer, father 
 and son ; their printing-office was the George Tavern, Dogwell-court, a scene in Shad- 
 well's Squire of Alsatia; in this house, William Bowyer, jun., was born in 1699. 
 The premises are now the printing-office of Bradbury, Evans, and Co., who main- 
 tain the excellence of their predecessors. Few other traces of old Whitefriars remain. 
 Hanging-Sword-Alley, east of Water-lane, is named from " a house called the Hang- 
 ing Sword," mentioned by Stow. In Temple-lane are the Whitefriars Glass-works, 
 established circ. 1700. 
 
 The White Friars spared no cost to procure books for their monastery : no book was 
 to be sold, but they had their emissaries provided with money to buy it.
 
 WHITEHALL. 833 
 
 WHITEHALL, 
 
 H! HAT part of "Westminster which extends from near Charing Cross to Canon-row, 
 -L and from the Thames to St. James's Park, was the site of the royal Palace of 
 Whitehall from 1530 to 1697. It was formerly called York-place, from having been 
 the town residence of the Archbishops of York : one of whom, Walter de Grey, 
 purchased it in 1248 from the Convent of Black Friars of Holborn, to which it had 
 been bequeathed by Hubert de Burgh, the Justiciary of England, and famous minister 
 of Henry III., who had bought the inheritance from the monks of Westminster for 
 140 marks of silver. The property was conveyed by Walter de Grey to his successors 
 in the see of York. Cardinal Wolsey was the last Archbishop of York by whom the 
 palace was inhabited: he built extensively, and "lived a long season" here, in 
 sumptuous state : 
 
 " Where fruitful Thames salutes the learned shore 
 
 Was this grave prelate and the muses plac'd, 
 And by those waves he builded had before 
 
 A royal house with learned muses grac'd, 
 
 But by his death imperfect and defac'd." 
 
 Storer's Metrical History of Wohey, 1599. 
 
 Upon the fall of Wolsey, in 1529, York Place was taken from him by Henry VIII., 
 and the broken-hearted prelate left in his barge on the Thames for Esher. The name 
 of the palace was then changed to White Hall,* possibly from some new buildings 
 having been constructed of white stone, at a time when bricks and timber were 
 generally used, 
 
 " You must no more call it York Place that is past : 
 For since the Cardinal fell, that title's lost; 
 'Tis now the King's, and call'd White Hall." 
 
 Shakspeare's King Henry VIII., act iv. sc. 1. 
 
 Here Henry and Anne Boleyn were married in a garret of the palace, says Lingard ; 
 Stow says, in a closet. Henry built a noble stone gallery, from which, in 1539, he 
 reviewed 15,000 armed citizens : from this gallery also the court and nobility witnessed 
 the jousts and tournaments in the Tilt-yard, now the parade-ground of the Horse 
 Guards. The King " most sumptuously and curiously builded many beautiful, costly, 
 and pleasant lodgings, buildings, and mansions;" and added a tennis-court, bowling- 
 alleys, and a cock-pit, " for his pastime and solace." 
 
 Whitehall was seven years in building; and in 1536 (the old palace of Edward the 
 Confessor having been in utter ruin and decay since the fire in 1512), it was enacted 
 by Parliament that all the ground, mansion and buildings, the park, and the entire 
 space between Charing Cross and the Sanctuary at Westminster, from the Thames on 
 the east side to the park-wall westward, should be cleared and called the King's Palace 
 of Westminster. Here Henry VIII. assembled many pictures, which afterwards 
 became the nucleus of the splendid collection of Charles I. Henry made munificent 
 proposals to Raphael and Titian, and the former painted for him a " St. George." The 
 King also took into his service Hans Holbein, and gave him apartments at Whitehall, 
 with a pension, besides paying him for his pictures. Holbein built, opposite the 
 entrance to the Tilt-yard, a magnificent Gate-house, of small squared stones and flint 
 boulder, glazed and tessellated : on each front were four terra-cotta busts, naturally 
 coloured, and gilt. This gate was removed in 1750, when it was begged by William 
 Duke of Cumberland, son of George II., with the intention of rebuilding it in the 
 Great Park at Windsor ; the stones were numbered for this purpose, which was never 
 fulfilled. Three of the busts, Henry VII. and VIII. and Bishop Fisher, are now at 
 Hatfield Priory, Essex. The Gate-house was used as a State-paper Office many years 
 before its removal, and was known as the Cockpit Gate. At Whitehall, on December 
 30, 1546, Henry signed his will, and on January 28 expired. Edward VI. held a 
 Parliament at Whitehall : 
 
 1553. "And this y ere the furst day of (March was the) parlament, and kepte wythin the kyngcs 
 pallys at Westmyster, Whythalle." Chron. Grey Friar Land. 
 
 * The " White Hall " was a name not unfrequently given by our ancestors to the festive halls of 
 their habitations : there was a White Hall at Kenilworth ; and the Hall formerly the House of Lords 
 was the White Hall of the royal Palace of Westminster, and is so called by Stow. 
 
 3 H
 
 834 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Bisbop Latimer preached before the Court in the Privy Garden, the King sitting at 
 one of the palace windows. Queen Mary went from Whitehall by water to her coro- 
 nation at Westminster, Elizabeth bearing the crown before her. Whitehall palace 
 was attacked by Sir Thomas Wyat's rebels, who "shotte divers arrowes into the 
 courte, the gate beying open ;" and looking out over the gate, the Queen pardoned the 
 Kent men, with halters about their necks. From the palace the Princess Elizabeth 
 was taken captive to the Tower on Palm Sunday, 1554. At Whitehall, November 13, 
 1555, dkd Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester and Lord Chancellor of England, at mid- 
 night, exclaiming : " I have sinned, I have not wept with Peter." Hentzner describes, 
 in 1598, Elizabeth's library of Greek, Latin, Italian, and French books; a little one, 
 in her own handwriting, addressed to her father ; and a book of prayers written by 
 Elizabeth in five languages, with her ow n miniature and that of her suitor, the Due 
 d'Anjou. In her 67th year, " she appoints a Frenchman to doe feates upon a rope in 
 the conduit court. To-morrow she hath commanded the hear, the bull, and the ape 
 to be bayted in the tilt-yard. Upon Wednesday she will have solemn dawncing." 
 (Botvland White.) Elizabeth revived the pageants and joustings at Whitehall ; and 
 here she built " the Fortress or Castell of perfect Beautie," a large wooden banquet- 
 ing-house on the north-west side of the palace. In 1561 Sackville and Norton's 
 tragedy of Ferrex and Porrex was acted here by gentlemen of the Inner Temple. 
 In the great gallery, Elizabeth received the Speaker and Commons House, when they 
 came " to move her grace to marriage." On March 24, 1603, " then deceased," from 
 Richmond, " the Queen was brought by water to Whitehall." 
 
 In the Orchard of Whitehall the Lords in Council met; and in the Garden, 
 James I. knighted 300 or 400 judges, Serjeants, doctors-at-law, &c. Here the Lord 
 Monteagle imparted to the Earl of Salisbury the warning letter of the Gunpowder 
 Plot; Guy Fawkes was examined in the King's bedchamber, and carried hence to the 
 Tower. In 1617, when James visited Scotland, Lord Keeper Bacon resided at White- 
 hall. James I., in 1608, had "the old, rotten, slight-builded Banqueting House" 
 removed, and next year rebuilt ; but it was destroyed by fire in 1619. In this reign 
 were produced many " most glorious masques" by Inigo Jones and Ben Jonson ; aud 
 Inigo designed a new palace, the drawings for which are preserved in Worcester Col- 
 lege, Oxford. 
 
 In magnitude, Inigo Jones's plan would have exceeded that of the palace of Diocletian, and would 
 have covered nearly 24 acres. It was to have consisted of seven courts, to have extended 874 feet 
 fronting the Thames, and the same length along the foot of St. James's Park : presenting one front 
 to Charing Cross, of 1200 feet long; and another, the principal, of similar dimensions towards West- 
 minster Abbey. (See Fourdrinier's large print.) A more distinct idea may be formed of this extent 
 by comparing it with that of other palaces : thus, Hampton Court covers 8 or 9 acres, St. James's 4, 
 Buckingham 2i acres. 
 
 Of Jones's magnificent design, only the Banqueting-house was completed. Charles I. 
 commissioned Rubens to paint the ceiling, and by his agency obtained the Cartoons of 
 Raphael. In the Cabinet- room of the palace, built also by Inigo Jones, fronting west- 
 ward to Privy Garden, Charles assembled pictures of almost incalculable value ; the 
 royal collection containing 460 paintings, including 28 by Titian, 11 by Correggio, 16 
 by Julio Romano, 9 by Raphael, 4 by Guide, and 7 by Pannegiano. Upon the Civil 
 War breaking out, Whitehall was seized by the Parliament, who, in 1645, had " the 
 boarded masque-house" pulled down, sold great part of the paintings and statues, and 
 burnt the " superstitious pictures." Here, Jan. 30, 1649, in the Cabinet-room Charles 
 last prayed ; in the Horn-chamber he was delivered to the officers, and thence led out 
 to execution upon a scaffold in front of the Banqueting-house. 
 
 The King was taken on the first morning of his trial, Jan. 20, 1649, in a sedan-chair, from Whitehall 
 to Cotton House, where he slept pending his trial in Westminster Hall ; after whi< h the king returned 
 to Whitehall ; but on the night before his execution he slept at St. James's. On Jan. 30 he was " most 
 barbarously murthered at his own door, about two o'clock in the afternoon." (Histor. Guide, 3d imp., 
 1688.) Lord Leicester and Dugdale state that Charles was beheaded at Whitehall gate. The scaffold 
 was erected in front of the Banqueting-house, in the street now Whitehall; and Herbert states that the 
 king was led out by " a passage broken through the wall," on to the scaffold ; but Ludlow states that 
 it was out of a window, according to Vertue, of a small building north of the Banqueting-house, whence 
 the king stepped upon the scafiold. A picture of the sad scene, painted by Weesop, in the manner of 
 Vandyke, shows the platform, extending only in length, before two of the windows, to the commence- 
 ment of the third casement. Weesop visited England from Holland in 1641, and quitted England in 
 1650, saying " he would never reside in a country where they cut off their king's head, and were not
 
 WHITEHALL. 835 
 
 ashamed of the action." (See painful inquiries upon the identity of the place of execution, in 
 Notes and Queries, 3rd s. iii. 213, 292 ; iv. 195. 
 
 Cromwell, by vote of Parliament in 1650, had " the use of the lodging called the 
 Cockpit, of the Spring Garden, and St. James's House, and the command of St. James's 
 Park," for some time before he assumed the supreme power. To Whitehall, in 1653, 
 April 20th, he returned with the keys in his pocket, after dissolving the Long Parlia- 
 ment, which he subsequently explained to the Little or Barebones Parliament assembled 
 in the Council-chamber of Whitehall. Here the Parliament desired Cromwell to 
 " magnify himself with the title of King ;" here Milton was Cromwell's Latin Secre- 
 tary, Andrew Marvell his frequent guest, with Waller his friend and kinsman, and 
 sometimes the youthful Dryden. Cromwell repurchased the Cartoons and many other 
 pictures, and in 1656 Evelyn found the palace " very glorious and well-furnished." 
 Here Cromwell expired, Sept. 3, 1658, " the double day of victory and death." 
 Richard Cromwell resided here. Charles II., at the Restoration, came in grand pro- 
 cession of seven hours from the City to Whitehall. To the Lords Commissioners of the 
 Treasury Charles assigned the Cockpit ; and in this locality their chambers have ever 
 since remained. Charles collected by proclamation the plate, hangings, and paintings, 
 which had been pillaged from the palace : he also built a stone gallery to flank Privy 
 Garden, and below it suites of apartments for his " Beauties." Evelyn describes the 
 Duchess of Portsmouth's apartment, " twice or thrice pulled down and rebuilt to satisfy 
 her prodigal and expensive pleasures ;" its French tapestry, " Japan cabinets, screens, 
 pendule clocks, great vases of wrought plate, table- stands, chimney-furniture, sconces, 
 branches, brasenas, &c., all of massive silver, and out of number." Evelyn also sketches 
 a Sunday evening in the palace : 
 
 " The king sitting and toying with his concubines, Portsmouth, Cleveland, and Mazarin, &c. ; a 
 French boy singing love-songs in those glorious galleries ; whilst about twenty of the great courtiers 
 and other dissolute persons were at Basset round a large table, a bank of at least 2000/. in gold before 
 them. Six days after all was in the dust." 
 
 In Vertue's plan are shown the buttery, bakehouse, wood and coal yards, charcoal- 
 house, spicery, cider-house ; and, beneath the Banqueting-house, the king's privy cellar. 
 Owing to its low level, Whitehall was liable to floods from the Thames. Pepys, in 
 1663, records a high tide having drowned the whole palace ; and Charles II., when he 
 received the Lords and Commons in the Banqueting-hall at the Restoration, desires 
 them to mend the ways, so that his wife " may not find Whitehall under water." 
 
 At Whitehall Charles collected about 1000 volumes, dedicated or presented to him : 
 including an illuminated Breviary given by Henry VII. to his daughter, Margaret 
 Queen of Scots, with his autograph ; a curious MS. in high Dutch on the Great Elixir ; 
 a French MS. 300 years old, with paintings of plants in miniature ; and a journal, &c. 
 in the handwriting of Edward VI. Charles II. died at Whitehall, Feb. 6, 1685; and 
 his successor was immediately proclaimed at the palace-gate. James II. resided here : 
 he washed the feet of the poor with his own hands on Maundy Thursday in the Chapel 
 Royal : here he admitted Penn, the Quaker, to his private closet ; find he rebuilt the 
 chapel for Romish worship, with marble statues by Gibbons, and a fresco by Verrio. 
 The King also erected upon the Banqueting-house a large weathercock, that he might 
 calculate by the wind the probable arrival of the Dutch fleet. (See Canaletti's view.) 
 On Dec. 18, 1688, James left Whitehall in the state-barge, never to return. In 1691 
 a destructive fire reduced the palace to " nothing but walls and ruins :" 150 houses 
 were burned down, and twenty blown up with gunpowder. In 1697 a fire broke out 
 in the laundry ; all the pictures in the palace were destroyed, and twelve persons 
 perished. The remaining portions of the site of Whitehall were given away by the 
 Crown. Charles Duke of Richmond had a mansion on the south-east side of Privy 
 Garden : it was rebuilt from a plan by the Earl of Burlington, and was burnt down in 
 1791 ; its site is now occupied by Richmond-terrace. 
 
 His Grace was a liberal patron of the fine arts, and in 1758 ordered a room to be opened at his 
 house in Whitehall, containing a large collection of original plaster casts, from the best antique busts 
 and statues at Rome and Florence, to which all artists, and youths above twelve years of age, had 
 ready access : he also bestowed two medals annually on those who executed the two best models. 
 
 In Privy Garden was also built Pembroke House ; and subsequently, Gucydir House, 
 now the Office of the Poor-Law Board. 
 
 3 H 2
 
 836 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 Gardens and Dials, Whitehall gardens were laid out in terraces and parterres, and 
 ornamented with marble and bronze statues, a few of which are now at Hampton 
 Court and Windsor. In Privy Garden was a dial set up by Edward Gunter, professor 
 of astronomy at Gresham College (and of which he published a description), by 
 command of James I., in 1624. A large stone pedestal bore four dials at the four corners, 
 and "the great horizontal concave" in the centre; besides east, west, north, and 
 south dials at the sides. In the reign of Charles II. this dial was defaced by an intoxi- 
 cated nobleman of the Court : 
 
 " This place for a dial was too unsecure, 
 
 Since a guard and a garden could not defend ; 
 For so near to the Court they will never endure 
 
 Any witness to show how their time they misspend." Marvell. 
 
 In the court-yard facing the Banqueting-house was another curious dial, set up in 
 1669 by order of Charles II. It was invented by one Francis Hall, alias Lyne, a 
 Jesuit, and professor of mathematics at Liege. This dial consisted of five stages rising 
 in a pyramidal form, and bearing several vertical and reclining dials, globes cut into 
 planes, and glass bowls ; showing " besides the houres of all kinds," " many things also 
 belonging to geography, astrology, and astronomy, by the sun's shadow made visible to 
 the eye." Among the pictures were portraits of the King, the two Queens, the Duke 
 of York, and Prince Rupert. Father Lyne published a description of this dial, which 
 consisted of seventy -three parts : it is illustrated with seventeen plates. (The details 
 are condensed in No. 400 of the Mirror.) About 1710, William Allingham, a mathe- 
 matician in Canon-row, asked 5001. to repair this dial : it was last seen by Vertue at 
 Buckingham House. 
 
 Remains of ancient Whitehall have been from time to time discovered. In 1831, 
 Mr. Sydney Smirke, F.S.A., in the basement of " Cromwell House," Whitehall-yard, 
 found a stone-built and groined Tudor apartment undoubtedly a relic of Wolsey's 
 palace, and corresponding with the wine-cellar in Vertue's plan, which is remarkably 
 larger than the chapel. Mr. Smirke also found a Tudor arched doorway, with 
 remains of the arms of Wolsey and the see of York in the spandrels; a portion of the 
 river-wall and circular bastions ; and two stone mullioned Tudor windows, at the back of 
 the Almonry-office, corresponding with the back wall of the apartments of " the Yeomen 
 of the Wood-yard," in Vertue's plan. In 1847 were removed the last remains of York 
 House, a Tudor embattled doorway, which had been built into a later fa9ade of the 
 Treasury. (Arch&ologia, vol. xxv.) 
 
 Among the relics, comparatively but little known, is a range of chambers, with groined roofings of 
 stone, at the Eolls Offices in Whitehall-gardens, which, probably, are a portion of the ancient palace of 
 Whitehall. Part of the external wall of these remains is still visible opposite the statue of James II. 
 H. Mogford, F.S.A. 
 
 Upon the site of the small-beer cellar (engraved in No. 4 of Hollar's prints of 
 Whitehall) is the house of the Earl of Fife. Here were some fine Gobelins tapestry ; 
 a marble picture of Mary Stuart, with her infant ; and in Pennant's time here was a 
 head of Charles I. when Prince of Wales, said to have been painted at Madrid by 
 Velasquez, in 1625.* The mansion was sold, in 1809, for 12,OOOZ. to the Earl of 
 Liverpool, who possessed it until his death in 1828. In an adjoining wall is the Tudor 
 arched entrance to the palace water-stairs. In Privy Garden was the celebrated 
 Museum formed by the Duchess of Portland : here Pennant was shown a rich pearl 
 surmounted with a crown, which was taken out of the ear of Charles I. after his head 
 was struck off: here also was the Barberini or Portland Vase, purchased by the Duchess 
 of Sir William Hamilton for 1800 guineas. The museum was sold by auction, in lots, 
 April 24, 1786, when the vase was bought by the Duke of Portland for 1029 guineas, 
 and deposited by his grace in the British Museum in 1810. 
 
 In Whitehall Yard is the UNITED SEETICE INSTITUTION MUSEUM, described at 
 page 545. No. 3 is the Office of the Comptroller General of the Exchequer, where is 
 held "the Trial of the Pyx." 
 
 _ig which he- 
 the Earl of 
 Picture, &o.
 
 'he Whitehall Gunner. 
 
 Oh.wvant persons in 
 avo ben puz/.led by the quaint 
 ind vane which has lately sur- 
 lounted the flagstaff of the Royal 
 failed Service Institution. It is an 
 importation from Ireland, and re- 
 >resents a field gun being fired by a 
 unner of the Royal Artillery in the 
 iniform of 1800. 
 
 For 120 years it swung ovei the 
 oof of the Dublin Ship-street Bar- 
 acks, and, with the passing of the 
 ld order of things, was presented to 
 ,ho Institution by the G.O. Com- 
 nanding-in-Chief in Ireland. 
 
 In its present position it will keep 
 Company wilh the vane on the ad- 
 joining historic Banqueting House, 
 which was so anxiously watched 
 by James II. to &ee how stood the 
 wind for the Prince of Orange's ex- 
 pedition. 
 
 AND STAINED GLASS. 
 
 837 
 
 crni, and takes place every five, six, or seven years, at 
 t of trial of the Masters and Officers of the Mint, to 
 
 is pure and standard gold and silver, fair weights, 
 t goldsmiths being sworn, the Master of the Mint 
 inires six men to carry it, contains several thousand 
 'llings, sixpenny, and threepenny pieces the results 
 
 soon as the chest is full the trial must take place. 
 t containing " the pyx," that is, a plate of gold and 
 i pyx is always kept in the ancient chapel at West- 
 [loi of the Exchequer, and Treasury, each possessing 
 't. After the usual formalities, the Lord Chancellor 
 le from the gold and the other from the silver, and 
 hs, by whom the assay is to be made. After this the 
 'ed up, while the jury and the chief clerk, with the 
 tere the coins from the Mint pix box are assayed by 
 lie actual process are well described in the limit, 
 
 tailed by the old name, Privy Garden) is 
 e SIR ROBERT PEEL'S (see p. 555). No. 7 
 Harrington's) : in 1854, it was fitted up for 
 
 d, named from its having been the site of 
 otland, when they came to the Parliament 
 has been objected that Scotland has always 
 of possession under the Edwards excepted. 
 the Palace to have been built by Kenneth 
 iven him by King Edgar, for his making 
 the kingdom of Scotland : but this account 
 
 " The Scottish Kings appear to have been anciently regarded as members of the English Parlia- 
 ment; and there are instances, among the Tower records, of the issuing of writs to summon their 
 attendance. In Pinkerton's Iconographia Scotica is engraved Edward I. sitting in Parliament, with 
 Alexander, King of Scots, on his right, and Llewellyn, Prince of Wales, on his left hand : this is stated 
 to have been taken from a copy of an ancient limning, formerly in the English College of Arms. When 
 the Scottish Sovereigns, in later times, attended to do homage for their fiefs of Cumberland and West- 
 moreland, they usually lodged in their palace, in Scotland-yard." NOTB : in Brayley's Londiniana, 
 ii. 277-8. 
 
 Scotland-yard is now the head-quarters of the Metropolitan Police. See pp. 681 683. 
 
 Here are Palace-row, and a large Conduit-house. Milton, when Latin Secretary to 
 Cromwell, had apartments in Scotland-yard, where died the poet's infant son. The 
 Crown Surveyor had his official residence in Scotland-yard ; and here lived Inigo Jones, 
 Sir John Denham, and Sir Christopher Wren, who successively filled the above office. 
 
 Near his house in Scotland-yard, Inigo Jones, uniting with Nicholas Stone, the sculptor, buried his 
 money in a private place. " The Parliament published an order encouraging servants to inform of 
 such concealments; and as four of the workmen were privy to the deposit, Jones and his friend 
 removed it privately, and with their own hands buried it in Lambeth Marsh." Life by Cunningham. 
 
 Here Sir John Vanbrugh built himself a house out of the ruins of Whitehall Palace : 
 Swift has ridiculed the house of "brother Van" for its resemblance to a goose-pie : 
 Vanbrugh died here in 1726. 
 
 WINDOWS OF PAINTED AND STAINED GLASS. 
 
 THE more noteworthy specimens in the Metropolis are incidentally noticed in 
 describing the edifices which contain them. The following are recent additions : - 
 St. Paul's Cathedral. One of a series of windows is that presented by Mr. 
 Thomas Brown, late of the house of Longman and Co. the subjects depicted being 
 from the Life of St. Paul. The cartoons were designed by Schnorr, and Professor 
 Strahuber is the artist, who was asked by Schnorr himself to carry his designs into 
 effect. Inspector von Aiumiller was requested in like manner to take in hand the 
 architectural accessories. The window is divided into two parts. The upper and 
 principal part represents the " Vision " seen by the Apostle, and in the lower portion 
 Ananias is seen coming to St. Paul when blind. To the right and left, the donor and 
 his wife are represented in a kneeling posture, and beneath are their coats of arms and 
 other decorations. The composition and the architectural portion chiefly from 
 motifs by the English architect, Penrose, who superintends the works of restoration- 
 arc excellent.
 
 iitv. 
 My stal 
 
 836 CURIOSITIES ? uld 
 hon e Company fo. 
 
 Gardens and Dials. Whitehall gardens ij 
 ornamented with marble and bronze statu^ 
 Court and Windsor. In Privy Garden was 
 of astronomy at Gresham College (and oi 1 * 
 command of James I., in 1624. A large stone* 6 ^ 
 and "the great horizontal concave" in tlfl 
 south dials at the sides. In the reign of ChaW 
 cated nobleman of the Court : 
 
 " This place for a dial was too uns, 1 ^ 1 
 
 Since a guard and a garden co'jSineoS p ! v 
 For so near to the Court they wS? 
 Any witness to show how thei 
 
 In the court-yard facing the Banqueting-; ,, rharo ., 
 
 1669 by order of Charles II. It was inve^ 
 Jesuit, and professor of mathematics at Liege A n his reply. 
 in a pyramidal form, and bearing several ve'fl Hull, L< 
 planes, and glass bowls ; showing " besides t! " I CMiuiot trace all IT 
 belonging to geography, astrology, and astrtflephone pf'.ymem,-, but, 
 the eye." Among the pictures were portrahe pf'yi >),.(.' <*. as iO fo- 
 of York, and Prince Rupert. Father Lynor a private wire to r<>- 
 consisted of seventy-three parts : it is Ulustre paid th o National Te 
 are condensed in No. 400 of the Mirror.) T any - 15 f Or both. at a 
 matician in Canon-row, asked 500Z. to repai ar j v ca ]'s as; AVJ liSwJ 
 Buckingham House. oinisipal charge wa i 
 
 Remains of ancient Whitehall have been irom time to Time? u*,^~. A^if*" 
 
 Mr. Sydney Smirke, F.S.A., in the basement of " Cromwell House," Whitehall-yard, 
 found a stone-built and groined Tudor apartment undoubtedly a relic of Wolsey's 
 palace, and corresponding with the wine-cellar in Vertue's plan, which is remarkably 
 lai'ger than the chapel. Mr. Smirke also found a Tudor arched doorway, with 
 remains of the arms of Wolsey and the see of York in the spandrels; a portion of the 
 river-wall and circular bastions; and two stone mullioned Tudor windows, at the back of 
 the Almonry-office, corresponding with the back wall of the apartments of " the Yeomen, 
 of the Wood-yard," in Vertue's plan. In 1847 were removed the last remains of York 
 House, a Tudor embattled doorway, which had been built into a later fa9ade of the 
 Treasury. (Arch&ologia, vol. xxv.) 
 
 Among the relics, comparatively but little known, is a range of chambers, with groined roofings of 
 stone, at the Rolls Offices in Whitehall-gardens, which, probably, are a portion of the ancient palace of 
 Whitehall. Part of the external wall of these remains is still visible opposite the statue of James II. 
 H. Mogford, F.S.A. 
 
 Upon the site of the small-beer cellar (engraved in No. 4 of Hollar's prints of 
 Whitehall) is the house of the Earl of Fife. Here were some fine Gobelins tapestry ; 
 a marble picture of Mary Stuart, with her infant ; and in Pennant's time here was a 
 head of Charles I. when Prince of Wales, said to have been painted at Madrid by 
 Velasquez, in 1625.* The mansion was sold, in 1809, for 12,0002. to the Earl of 
 Liverpool, who possessed it until his death in 1828. In an adjoining wall is the Tudor 
 arched entrance to the palace water-stairs. In Privy Garden was the celebrated 
 Museum formed by the Duchess of Portland : here Pennant was shown a rich pearl 
 surmounted with a crown, which was taken out of the ear of Charles I. after his head 
 was struck off: here also was the Barberini or Portland Vase, purchased by the Duchess 
 of Sir William Hamilton for 1800 guineas. The museum was sold by auction, in lots, 
 April 24, 1786, when the vase was bought by the Duke of Portland for 1029 guineas, 
 and deposited by his grace in the British Museum in 1810. 
 
 In Whitehall Yard is the UNITED SERVICE INSTITUTION MUSEUM, described at 
 page 545. No. 3 is the Office of the Comptroller General of the Exchequer, where is 
 held "the Trial of the Pyx."
 
 WINDOWS OF PAINTED AND STAINED GLASS. 837 
 
 The ceremony of the Pyx is a very ancient custom, and takes place every five, six, or seven years, at 
 the above offices, or in Old Palace-yard. It is a sort of trial of the Masters and Officers of the Mint, to 
 ascertain if the coinage which they have issued is pure and standard gold and silver, fair weights, 
 and proper quantities of alloy. A jury of eminent goldsmiths being sworn, the Master of the Mint 
 produces the great pyx box. The chest, which requires six men to carry it, contains several thousand 
 sovereigns and some silver principally florins, shillings, sixpenny, and threepenny pieces the results 
 of the accumulation since the previous trial. As soon as the chest is full the trial must take place. 
 The chief clerk of the Exchequer produces the box containing "the pyx," that is, a plate of gold and 
 one of silver, made in the time of George III. The pyx is always kept in the ancient chapel at West- 
 minster; the Controller of the Exchequer, Chancellor of the Exchequer, and Treasury, each possessing 
 a separate key of the box in which the pix is kept. After the usual formalities, the Lord Chancellor 
 cuts off two strips of metal from the pix plates, one from the gold and the other from the silver, and 
 hands them to the foreman of the jury of goldsmiths, by whom the assay is to be made. After this the 
 pix is taken back to the Chapter-house and locked up, while the jury and the chief clerk, with the 
 standard weights, proceed to Goldsmiths' Hall, where the coins from the Mint pix box are assayed by 
 the acid test and weight. The ceremony and the actual process are well described in the Timtg, 
 Jan. 20, 1866. 
 
 In Whitehall Gardens (till our time called by the old name, Privy Garden) is 
 MONTAGUE HOUSE (see p. 553) ; No. 4 is SIB ROBERT PEEL'S (see p. 555). No. 7 
 is Pembroke House (formerly the Earl of Harrington's) : in 1854, it was fitted up for 
 the War Minister. 
 
 WHITEHALL commences at Scotland-yard, named from its having been the site of 
 the palace " for receipt of the Kings of Scotland, when they came to the Parliament 
 of England :" to this statement by Stow, it has been objected that Scotland has always 
 been an independent nation a short period of possession under the Edwards excepted. 
 Strype, quoting a pamphlet of 1548, states the Palace to have been built by Kenneth 
 III., King of Scotland, in 959, on ground given him by King Edgar, for his making 
 thither an annual journey to do homage for the kingdom of Scotland : but this account 
 is less credited than Stow's. 
 
 "The Scottish Kings appear to have been anciently regarded as members of the English Parlia- 
 ment; and there are instances, among the Tower records, of the issuing of writs to summon their 
 attendance. In Pinkerton's Iconoyraphia Scotica is engraved Edward I. sitting in Parliament, with 
 Alexander, King of Scots, on his right, and Llewellyn, Prince of Wales, on his left hand : this is stated 
 to have been taken from a copy of an ancient limning, formerly in the English College of Arms. When 
 the Scottish Sovereigns, in later times, attended to do homage for their fiefs of Cumberland and West- 
 moreland, they usually lodged in their palace, in Scotland-yard." NOTE : in Brayley's Londiniana, 
 ii. 277-8. 
 
 Scotland-yard is now the head-quarters of the Metropolitan Police. See pp. 681 683. 
 
 Here are Palace-row, and a large Conduit-house. Milton, when Latin Secretary to 
 Cromwell, had apartments in Scotland-yard, where died the poet's infant son. The 
 Crown Surveyor had his official residence in Scotland-yard ; and here lived Inigo Jones, 
 Sir John Denham, and Sir Christopher Wren, who successively filled the above office. 
 
 Near his house in Scotland-yard, Inigo Jones, uniting with Nicholas Stone, the sculptor, buried his 
 money in a private place. " The Parliament published an order encouraging servants to inform of 
 such concealments; and as four of the workmen were privy to the deposit, Jones and his friend 
 removed it privately, and with their own hands buried it in Lambeth Marsh." Life by Cunningham. 
 
 Here Sir John Vanbrugh built himself a house out of the ruins of Whitehall Palace : 
 Swift has ridiculed the house of " brother Van" for its resemblance to a goose-pie : 
 Vanbrugh died here in 1726. 
 
 WINDOWS OF PAINTED AND STAINED GLASS. 
 
 rpHE more noteworthy specimens in the Metropolis are incidentally noticed in 
 JL describing the edifices which contain them. The following are recent additions : 
 St. Paul's Cathedral. One of a series of windows is that presented by Mr. 
 Thomas Brown, late of the house of Longman and Co. the subjects depicted being 
 from the Life of St. Paul. The cartoons were designed by Schnorr, and Professor 
 Strahuber is the artist, who was asked by Schnorr himself to carry his designs into 
 effect. Inspector von Aiumiller was requested in like manner to take in hand the 
 architectural accessories. The window is divided into two parts. The upper and 
 principal part represents the " Vision " seen by the Apostle, and in the lower portion 
 Ananias is seen coming to St. Paul when blind. To the right and left, the donor and 
 his wife are represented in a kneeling posture, and beneath are their coats of arms and 
 other decorations. The composition and the architectural portion chiefly from 
 motifs by the English architect, Penrose, who superintends the works of restoration- 
 arc excellent.
 
 888 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 The Guildhall. Amongst the enrichments of the Hall are several windows, one of 
 whith, presented by Mr, Cornelius Lea Wilson, is of fine historical design, by Gibbs. 
 It is in four compartments, the subjects being the presentation of the four prin- 
 cipal charters of the City ; the figures are richly coloured and jewelled on diapered 
 backgrounds, and are surmounted by canopies on a rich ruby ground; the arms of the 
 City and those of the donor are introduced in the tracery lights. The first subject is 
 William the Conqueror holding in his hand the first charter granted to the City. The 
 second subject is Henry I. presenting the charter granting to the City to hold Middle- 
 sex with London, and the right of hunting in the forests. The third subject is 
 Richard I. granting the charter to the City of the conservancy of the river Thames, in 
 order that the fishery might be nurtured and preserved, and the navigation encouraged 
 and protected. The fourth and last subject is Edward VI. presenting the charter of the 
 four Royal Hospitals. 
 
 A large specimen of Glass-painting was exhibited at No. 15, Oxford-street, in 1830. 
 
 The subject was the Tournament of the Field of Cloth-of-Gold, between Henry VIII. and Francis I., 
 at Arch-es ; the last tourney, June 25, 1520 : painted by Thomas Wilmshurst (the horses by Woodward), 
 from a sketch by R. T. Bone. This window was 432 square feet, or 18 by 24 feet; and consisted of 350 
 pieces, fitted into metal astragals, falling with the shadows, so that the whole picture appeared an 
 entire sheet ot glass ; it was exhibited in a first-floor room, decorated in the taste of the time of 
 Henry VIII. The picture was composed from the details of Hall's Chronicle, and contained upwards 
 of 100 lite-sized figures (40 portraits, mostly after Holbein) : including the two Queens, Wolsey, Anne 
 Boleyne, and the Countess of Chateaubriant ; Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk ; Queen Mary, Dowager 
 of France ; the ill-fated Duke of Buckingham, &c. The gorgeous assemblage of costume, gold and 
 jewels, waving plumes, glittering arms, velvet, ermine, and cloth-of-gold, with heraldic emblazonry, 
 picturesquely managed. The work cost the artist 30001. On the night of Jan. 31, 1832, the house was 
 destroyed in an accidental fire, and with it the picture; not even a sketch or study was saved, and the 
 property was wholly uninsured. 
 
 ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY'S GARDENS, 
 
 TTPON the north-west side of the Regent's Park, consist of a triangular garden south of 
 *-* the outer road, and a northern garden upon the banks of the Regent's Canal : they 
 are connected by a tunnel beneath the road, and their extent is about 17 acres. The 
 soil being originally the London clay very near the surface, was cold and damp, and, 
 for a time, caused great mortality among the animals of the Menagerie ; but the whole 
 has been thoroughly drained and tastefully planted. 
 
 The Zoological Society was instituted in 1826, "for the general advancement of 
 zoological science." It had been proposed 
 
 . " The great objects should be, the introduction of new varieties, breeds, and races of animals, for 
 the purpose of domestication or for stocking our farm-yards, woods, pleasure-grounds, and wastes ; 
 with the establishment of a general zoological collection, consisting of prepared specimens in the 
 different classes and orders, so as to aftbid a correct view of the Animal Kingdom at large, in as com- 
 plete a series as may be practicable; and at the same time point out the analogies between the animals 
 already domesticated, and those which are similar in character, upon which the first experiments may 
 be made. * * * * Should the Society flourish and succeed, it will not only be useful in common 
 life, but would likewise promote the best and most extensive objects of the Scientific History of 
 Animated Nature, and offer a collection of living animals such as never yet existed in ancient or modern 
 times." Prospectus, privately circulated, 1824. 
 
 Among the founders of the Society were Sir Stamford Raffles, Sir Humphry Davy, 
 Earl Darnley, Sir Everard Home, Mr. Davies Gilbert, Dr. Horsfield, the Rev. W 
 Kirby, Mr. Sharpe Macleay, and Mr. N. A. Vigors ; and into the new Society merged 
 the Zoological Club. At the same time was commenced the formation of a Museum, 
 at No. 33, Bruton-street, with the magnificent collection of Sir S. Raffles. A plot of 
 ground in the Regent's Park was granted to the Society by the government, and laid 
 out by Decimus Burton, who also built the first houses and inclosures for the animals. 
 Sir Francis Chantrey took great interest in the Society, and the embellishment of the 
 Gardens. In 1827, the lake in the Park, with its islands and water-fowl, and a site 
 for breeding and rearing, were likewise granted to the Society. The Gardens were 
 first opened to the public in 1828, by members' orders, and one shilling each person ; 
 and during seven months there were upwards of 30,000 visitors : there were then 
 in the Menagerie 430 animals ; and the year's expenses were 10,0002. 
 
 Among the earliest tenants of the Menagerie were a pair of emus from New 
 Holland; two Arctic bears and a Russian bear; a herd of kangaroos; Cuban mastiffs 
 and Thibet watch-dogs; two llamas from Peru; a splendid collection of eagles, falcons,
 
 ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY'S GARDENS, 839 
 
 and owls ; a pair of beavers ; cranes, spoonbills, and storks ; zebras and Indian cows ; 
 Esquimaux dogs ; armadilloes ; and a collection of monkeys. To tbe collection have 
 since been added an immense number of species of Mammalia and Birds, lists of which 
 are appended to the several annual Reports. To these was added, in 1849, a collection 
 of Reptiles ; and in 1853, a collection of Fish, Mollusca, Zoophytes, and other Aquatic 
 Animals. Among the royal donors to the collection are the Emperor of Russia, the 
 late Queen of Portugal, the Viceroy of Egypt, and Queen Victoria. In 1830, the 
 menagerie collected by George IV. at Saudpit-gate, Windsor, was removed to the 
 Society's Gardens ; and 1834 the last of the Tower Menagerie was received here. It 
 is now the finest public Vivarium in Europe. 
 
 The following are some of the more remarkable animals which the Society have 
 possessed, or are now in the Menagerie : 
 
 Antelopes, the great family of, finely represented. The beautiful Elands were bequeathed by the 
 late Earl of Derby, and have bred freely since their arrival in 1851. The Leucoryx is the first or her 
 race born out of Africa. Ant-eater, Giant, brought to England from Brazil in 1853, and was exhibited 
 in Broad-street, St. Giles's, until purchased by the Zoological Society for 2001. (See the admirable 
 paper by Professor Owen.) Apteryx, or Kiwi bird, from New Zealand; the first living specimen 
 brought to England of this rare bird. The Fish-house, built of iron and glass, in 1853, consisting of 
 a series of glass tanks, in which fish spawn, zoophytes produce young, and alga; luxuriate; Crustacea 
 and mollusca live successfully, and ascidian polypes are illustrated, together with sea anemones, jelly- 
 fishes and star-fishes, rare shell-fishes, &c. : a new world of animal life is here seen as in the depths of 
 the ocean, with masses of rock, sand, gravel, corallines, sea-weed, and sea-water; the animals are in a 
 state of natural restlessness, now quiescent, now eating and being eaten. Aurochs, or European 
 Bisons : a pair presented by the Emperor of Russia, in 1847, from the forest of Bialowitzca : the male 
 died in 1848, the female in 1849, from pleuro-pneumonia. Sears : the collection is one of the largest 
 ever made. Elephants : including an Indian elephant calf and its mother. In 1847 died here the 
 great Indian elephant Jack, having been in the gardens sixteen years. Adjoining the stable is a tank 
 of water, of a depth nearly equal to the height of a full-grown elephant. In 1851 the Society possessed 
 a herd of four Elephants, besides a hippopotamus, a rhinoceros, and both species of tapir ; being the 
 largest collection of pachydermata ever exhibited in Europe. Giraffes : four received in 1836 cost the 
 Society upwards of 2300/., including 1000Z. for steamboat passage : the female produced six male fawns 
 here between 1840 and 1851. Hippopotamus, a young male (the first living specimen seen in England), 
 received from Egypt in May, 1850, when ten months old, seven feet long, and six and a half feet in 
 girth; also a female hippopotamus, received 1854. Humming-birds: Mr. Gould's matchless collection 
 of 2000 examples was exhibited here in 1851 and J852. Iguanas, two from Cuba and Carthagena, 
 closely resembling, in everything but size, the fossil Iguanodon. The Lions nu.nber generally from 
 eii,'ht to ten, including a pair of cubs born in the gardens in 1853. Orang-utan and Chimpanzee : the 
 
 ?urchas3-money of the latter sometimes exceeds 3001. The orang " Darby," brought from Borneo in 
 851, is the finest yet seen in Europe, very intelligent, and docile as a child. Parrot-houses, the, some- 
 times contain from sixty to seventy species. Rapacious Birds : so extensive a series of eagles and 
 vultures has never yet been seen at one view. The Reptile-house was fitted up in 1849 ; the creatures 
 are placed in large plate-glass cases : here are pythons and a rattle-snake, with a young one born 
 here; here is also a case of the tree-frogs of Europe: a yellow snake from Jamaica has produced 
 eight young in the gardens. Cobra de Capello, from India : in 1852, a keeper in the gardens was 
 killed by the bite of this serpent. A large Boa in 1850 swallowed a blanket, and disgorged it in 
 thirty-three days. A one-horned Rhinoceros, of continental India, was obtained in 1834, when it was 
 about four years old, and weighed 26 cwt.; it died in 1850: it was replaced by a female, about five 
 years old. Satin Bower-Birds, foam. Sydney : a pair have built here a bower, or breeding-place. Tapir 
 of the Old World, from Mount Ophir ; the nearest existing form to the Paleotherium. Tigers : a pair 
 of magnificent specimens, presented by the Guicowar of Baroda in 1851 ; a pair of clouded tigers, 1854. 
 The Wapiti Deer breeds every year in the Menagerie. 
 
 The animals in the Gardens, although reduced in number, are more valuable and 
 interesting than when their number was higher. The missions of the Society's head- 
 keeper, to collect rare animals for the Menagerie, have been very profitable. The 
 additional houses, from time to time, are very expensive : the new monkey-house, 
 fittings, and works cost 4842Z. ; and in 1864, the sum of 6604Z. was laid out in 
 permanent additions to the establishment. In 1863, the income amounted to 
 20,284. 12*. l~id. a sum unexampled, except in the two Exhibition years ; but the 
 income of 1864 reached 21,7l3Z. 13s. lOcZ. The visitors of all classes to the Gardens 
 during the year 1864 were 507,169 a number falling little, if at all, short of that of 
 the visitors to the British Museum, which is open to the public gratuitously. The 
 yearly income of the Society may now be reckoned, under ordinary circumstances, to 
 reach the amount of 20,0002.; and the ordinary expenses of the present large 
 establishment, 17,0002. The greater part of the above large sum is produced by the 
 shillings and sixpences taken at the gates of the Society's Gardens for the admission of 
 visitors. In 1864, upwards of 12,7002. accrued to the Society's revenues in this way, 
 and the corresponding amount in each year generally exceeds 10,0002. Visitors on 
 Mondays and holidays, who pay only sixpence a head, contribute by far the larger pro-
 
 840 CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. 
 
 portion of this sum their numbers being much more than double those of the visitors 
 on the other days of the week who pay one shilling each. 
 
 The number of Fellows and Annual Subscribers at the close of 1866 was 2459. Income, 24.379Z. 
 Visitors, 527,349. Animals in the Menagerie, 2013; Quadrupeds, 535; Birds, 1305; .Reptiles, 173. 
 Expenditure, 22,418Z.; cost and keep of Animals, 1409. Menagerie expenses, 1058J. Provisions, 
 3837J. New Buildings and Works, 3983Z. 
 
 The Society's Museum, which is in the South Garden, is described at p. 606. An 
 excellent Guide to the Gardens is published. 
 
 ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, SUREST, 
 
 WERE established in 1831, by Mr. Edward Cross, upon the demesne which had 
 been attached to the manor-house at Walworth. Thither Cross removed his 
 menagerie from the King's Mews, where it had been transferred from Exeter Change. 
 The Gardens were laid out by Henry Phillips, author of Sylva Florifera ; when a glazed 
 circular building, 100 feet in diameter, was built for the cages of the carnivorous animals 
 (lions, tigers, leopards, &c.) ; and other houses for mammalia, birds, &c. Here, in 
 1834, was first exhibited a young Indian one-horned rhinoceros, for which Cross paid 
 8001. ; it was the only specimen brought to England for twenty years : in 1836 were 
 added three giraffes, one fifteen feet high. To the zoological attraction was added a 
 large picture-model, upon the borders of the lake, three acres in extent : the first 
 picture, Mount Vesuvius (with the natural lake for the Bay of Naples), was produced 
 in 1837, when fireworks were also first introduced, for the volcanic eruption ; in 1839, 
 Iceland and its volcanoes; 1841, the City of Rome; 1843, Temple of Ellora; 1844, 
 London and the Great Fire of 1666 ; 1845, Edinburgh ; 1846, Vesuvius, reproduced ; 
 1848, Rome, reproduced; 1849, Storming of Badajoz. These picture-models, mostly 
 painted by Danson, were of great extent ; that of Rome occupying five acres, and a 
 painted surface of 260,000 square feet. They probably originated in the Ranelagh 
 spectacles of the last century ; for in 1792 was exhibited there Mount Etna, 80 feet 
 high, with the flowing lava, and altogether a triumph of machinery and pyrotechnics. 
 Balloon-ascents, flower-shows, and other sights, with out-door concerts, were added to 
 the attractions of these Gardens. In 1856, the property was sold, the Menagerie 
 removed, and there was built upon the site the Surrey Music Hall, described at p. 609. 
 
 THE CRYSTAL PALACE, SYDENHAM. 
 
 \ LTHOUGH this stupendous structure is not, like its prototype, the 1851 Greab 
 *- Exhibition building in Hyde Park, placed within the limits of the town, the 
 " Curiosities of London" would scarcely be complete without some notice of the contents 
 of the Crystal Palace at Sydenham. It occupies the summit of a hill between the 
 Brighton Railway and the Dulwich Wood, the fall from its site to the railway being 
 200 feet ; the main floor of the Palace being on a level with the cross at the top of 
 St. Paul's Cathedral. In its construction the materials of the 1851 Exhibition building 
 have been employed; but it is larger than its predecessor by 1628 feet, and by nearly 
 one-half in cubic contents. It is almost entirely of iron and glass, covers nearly 16 acres 
 of ground; and its height from the garden-front to the top of the louvres is 208 feet, or 
 6 feet higher than the Monument. The nave is covered with an arched roof, raising it 
 44 feet higher than the nave in Hyde Park ; and the centre and two end transepts 
 have similar roofs. From there Windsor Castle may be seen on the one side, 
 Knockholt beeches (near Seven Oaks) on the other. Nearly 10,000 tons of iron 
 have been used in the main building and wings ; and the superficial quantity of glass 
 is 25 acres. 
 
 The Nave is entered at the south end, through an ornamental screen of niches filled 
 with statues of kings and queens by John Thomas. In the area, statues are pic- 
 turesquely grouped with stupendous pines, palms, and other tropical plants of luxuriant 
 beauty, backed by the brilliant fa9ades of the various Industrial and Fine Arts Courts. 
 East and west are groups illustrating the ethnology, zoology, and botany of the Old 
 and New Worlds ; and at each end is a spacious basin, for a fountain to throw up water 
 from 70 to 200 feet. In the Courts, and dispersed throughout the building, are the
 
 THE CRYSTAL PALACE, SYDENHAM. 841 
 
 works of French and Italian, German and English, Roman and Greek sculptors ; and 
 models of celebrated ancient and modern edifices. Throughout the whole Palace are 
 galleries devoted to the exhibition of pictures, sculpture, and other objects of fine art 
 and industry. The most beautiful works are the Courts representing the architecture 
 and sculpture of each nation : Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Pompeian, Alhambra, Assyrian, 
 Byzantine, and Romanesque ; German, English, French, and Italian mediaeval ; Renais- 
 sance, Elizabethan, Italian, &c. 
 
 The great Orchestra in the centre Transept, erected for the Handel Festivals, is 
 capable of containing four thousand performers. The Handel Festivals are held trien- 
 nially. The four festivals held in 1857, 1859, 1862, and 1865, were attended by 
 254,234 persons, the receipts being upwards of 100,OOOZ. The large Organ crowning 
 the great Orchestra was built expressly for these festivals by Messrs. Gray and 
 Davison. In width this enormous Orchestra is double the diameter of the dome of 
 St. Paul's. 
 
 Up to this time a period of between thirteen and fourteen years the Palace has 
 been visited by upwards of twenty-one millions of visitors. On holiday and great fete 
 days it is no uncommon occurrence to find from 40,000 to 60,000 persons attending. 
 On one occasion (a Forester's fete) 83,721 visitors passed the stiles in one day. 
 
 The income of the Company annually varies from 120,OOOZ. to 140,OOOZ. per annum. 
 Of this large sum about 20,0001. arises from season tickets, a nearly similar amount 
 from royalties on refreshments, and about 15,000. from exhibitors' rental. 
 
 Descending across the terraces, decorated with marble vases filled with flowers and 
 figures emblematical of all nations, to the Italian and English Landscape-Garden and 
 the Park, we find Science and Philosophy teaching their sublime truths in a geological 
 illustration of the Wealden formation, " so well known in Kent, Surrey, and Sussex, 
 and formerly the great metropolis of the Dinosaurian orders, or the largest of gigantic 
 lizards :" the various strata are here represented ; and here Mr. Waterhouse Hawkins, 
 under the guiding eye of Professor Owen, has built up gigantic animals of a former 
 world, and in some instances restored them from fossil remains. 
 
 The series of fountains are a great attraction and are unrivalled in extent. The two 
 largest jets throw water 240 feet in height, being in volume and extent equal to the 
 great steeple of Bow Church, Cheapside.* The Palace, Park, Gardens, and Fountains, 
 &c., were designed and laid out by the late Sir Joseph Paxton, M.P. 
 
 The Palace is approached by a branch from the Brighton Railway, and also by a 
 high level railway connected with the London, Chatham and Dover Railway main 
 stations, Victoria and Ludgate. By the latter, the entire system of the Metropolitan 
 (Underground) Railway communicates with the Palace. Similar communication also 
 exists by Kensington with the North London Railway. On the completion of the East 
 London (Tunnel) Railway, the Palace will be in direct communication with all the 
 great railways entering London, and excursions may be run from all parts of the 
 country thereto. The building was opened by her Majesty, June 10, 1854. It has 
 cost nearly a million and a half of money; and in grandeur of purpose is a marvel of 
 enlightened enterprise. 
 
 The oontents of the Palace are all that its magic-suggestive name promises. For picturesque effects 
 we have fountains and fishpools, flowers and plants ; tor art-teaching purposes we have statues and 
 paintings, with nooks of Spain, Pompeii, Nineveh, and Egypt ; for examples of industrial arts, manu- 
 factures from all the civilized nations. In this building we can again take art from its cradle in Assyria 
 or Egypt, and trace, after its long sojourn on the banks of the Nile, its progress through Greece and 
 Eome, and during the Middle Ages, to the Renaissance. No need to draw upon the imagination. Here 
 are casts and faithful representations of the most important objects that modern research has discovered. 
 The English artisan, with little time for study, and less hope of travel, is, by this means, made 
 acquainted with the works of races whose names were unknown to his forefathers, and familiar with 
 antediluvian monsters, whose pre-Adamite existence was but faintly shadowed out in the griffins and 
 dragons of romance.' 
 
 * A portion of the north end of the Palace was destroyed by fire caused by the explosion of gas in the 
 flues heating the 50 miles of hot-water pipes within the Palace, on Sunday, December 30, 1866 : a 
 considerable portion of the damaged part has, however, already been reconstructed.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 A DELPHI : 
 * Adams, architects, 1 
 
 Banks, Sir Edward, 2 
 
 Becket, the bookseller, 2 
 
 Blamire, George, death of, 2 
 
 Embankment of Thames, 1 
 
 Garrick's House and Public 
 Funeral, 1 
 
 Hill, Thomas : Curiosities, 2 
 
 Knox, Vicesimus, 2 
 
 Literary Fund chambers, 2 
 
 Sandwich Islands, King and 
 Queen of, 2 
 
 Terrace and View, 1 
 ADMIRALTY OFFICE: 
 
 Clarence, Duke of, Lord 
 High Admiral, 3 
 
 Nelson's Funeral, 3 
 
 Ripley, architect, 2 
 
 Screen, by Adam, 2 
 
 Semaphore, and the Electric 
 Telegraph, 3 
 
 Wallingfbrd House, 2 
 ALCHEMISTS : 
 
 Brande's account, 3 
 
 Hermetic Mystery, sup- 
 pressed work, 4 
 
 Last true believer in, 3 
 
 "Woulfe, P., Barnard's Inn, b 
 ALDERMEN : 
 
 Barber, printer, 5 
 
 Birch, Boydell.and Wilkes, 5 
 
 Butler's Character of, 5 
 
 Court at Guildhall, 6 
 
 Election of, 5 
 
 Farringdon Ward, 5 
 
 Norton's Commentaries, 5 
 
 Read, Richard, foot soldier, 5 
 
 Saxon origin, 4 
 
 Wallace, William.gaoler of,5 
 
 Wards or Guilds, 5 
 ALMACK'S : 
 
 Decline of, 4 
 
 First opened, 4 
 
 NoTel and Key, 4 
 
 Williams, Gilly, describes, 4 
 ALMONRY, KOYAL : 
 
 Almoner, Q. Adelaide's, 7 
 
 Coronation Alms, 7 
 
 High Almoner, 7 
 
 Maundy Thursday distri- 
 bution, 7 
 
 Whitehall Chapel, 7 
 
 ALMONRY : 
 
 Ancient house, 6 
 
 Caxton's Printing-press, 6 
 
 Great and Little Almonry, 6 
 
 Harrington, James, 6 
 
 Westminster Abbey, 6 
 ALMSBOUSES : 
 
 Alleyn's, 8 
 
 Architecture of, 9 
 
 Bancroft's, 8 
 
 Clock and Watchmakers', 9 
 
 Cure's, 8 
 
 Dramatic College, 9 
 
 Drapers', 8 
 
 East India, 9 
 
 Emmanuel Hospital, 8 
 
 Fishmongers', 8 
 
 French Protestant, 9 
 
 Goldsmiths', 9 
 
 Haberdashers', 9 
 
 King William's, 9 
 
 London, 9 
 
 London Companies', 7 
 
 Marylebone, 9 
 
 Morden College, 9 
 
 Norfolk, 9 
 
 Owen's, 8 
 
 Palmer's, 9 
 
 Baiters', 8 
 
 Societies, various, 9 
 
 Surrey Chapel, 9 
 
 Trinity, 8 
 
 Van Dun's, 8 
 
 Westminster, 7, 8 
 
 Whittington's, 8 
 AMUSEMENTS : 
 
 Archery, 10 
 
 Ballad -singing, 10 
 
 Bear and Bull-baiting, 11 
 
 Bowls, 11 
 
 Card-playing, 10 
 
 Cock-fighting, 12 
 
 Cricket, 12 
 
 Duck-hunting, 13 
 
 Equestrianism, 13 
 
 Fairs, 13 
 
 Fireworks, 14 
 
 Football, 14 
 
 Hunting and Poaching, 14 
 
 Masquerades, 14 
 
 Mayings and May-games, 15 
 
 Parks, Sports and Pastimes 
 in, 15 
 
 AMUSEMENTS continued. 
 
 Punch's Street Show, 16 
 
 Prison Bars, or Base, 16 
 
 Puppet shows, 16 
 
 Racket and Tennis, 17 
 
 Salt-box Music, 17 
 
 Skittles, 17 
 
 Tea-gardens, 17 
 
 Thames Sports, 19 
 
 Theatres, 19 
 APOLLONICON : 
 
 Construction and Perfor- 
 mances, 19 
 ARCADES : 
 
 Burlington, Covent Garden, 
 Exeter 'Change, Lowther, 
 20 
 ARCHES : 
 
 Buckingham Palace, Green 
 Park, and Hyde Park, 21 
 ARGYLL ROOMS : 
 
 Braithwaite's Steam Fire 
 Engine; Chabert, "Fire 
 King ;" and Velluti, 22 
 ART UNION OF LONDON: 
 
 Pictures in demand, 22 
 
 Prizes drawn, 22 
 ARTESIAN WELLS: 
 
 Breweries', various, 23 
 
 Buckland, Dr., on, 23 
 
 Covent Garden, 23 
 
 Hampstead-road, 23 
 
 Origin of, 23 
 
 Prestwick on, 24 
 
 Supply of, 23 
 
 Tottenham, 23 
 
 Various, 23 
 ARTILLERY COMPANY: 
 
 Archers of Finsbury, 24 
 
 Armorial Ensigns, 26 
 
 Armoury House, 25 
 
 Captaiu-General, and Colo- 
 nels, 25 
 
 Musters and Marchings, 25 
 
 Trained Band, 24, 25 
 
 BALLOON ASCENTS : 
 Cox well's Ascents, 27 
 Glaisher's Scientific As- 
 cents, 27 
 
 Green's Ascents, 26 
 London, from a balloon, 27 
 Memorable, 26, 27
 
 INDEX. 
 
 843 
 
 BALLOON ASCENTS contd. 
 
 BATHS contin ueil. 
 
 BETHLEM continued. 
 
 Montgolfier, 26 
 
 Hummums.or Warm Baths, 
 
 Gibber's Raving and Melan- 
 
 Nassau, Great, 27 
 
 Covent Garden, 39 
 
 choly Madness, 51, 52 
 
 Parachutes, 26 
 
 Peerless Pool, 37 
 
 Criminal Lunatics, 53 
 
 Smith, Albert, ascent of, 27 
 
 Queen AnneV, 39 
 
 Curable Patients, 53 
 
 BANK OF ENGLAND: 
 
 Queen Elizabeth's, 39 
 
 History of the word, 51 
 
 Area of, 27 
 
 Roman, 37 
 
 Horrors of old Bethlem, 52 
 
 Bank-note Machinery, 29 
 
 Turkish, 39 
 
 House of Occupation, 52 
 
 Building and Architects, 28 
 
 BAZAARS : 
 
 Improved Management, 52 
 
 Bullion Office, 28 
 
 Anti-Corn-Law League, 42 
 
 Old Bethlem described, 51 
 
 Clock, 29 
 
 Baker-street, 41 
 
 Origin of the name, 51 
 
 Coins and Curiosities, 30 
 
 Corinthian, 543 
 
 Rebuilt on St. George's 
 
 Forgeries, 30 
 
 Cosmorama, 42 
 
 Fields, 52 
 
 Garden Court and Fountain, 
 
 St. James's, 41 
 
 Second Bethlem, 51 
 
 30 
 
 Lowther, 41 
 
 Tom o' Bedlam, 52 
 
 Grocers' Hall and Mercers' 
 
 Pantechnicon, 41 
 
 BETHNAL G KEEN : 
 
 Hall, 28 
 
 Pantheon, 41 
 
 Blind Beggar, 50 
 
 Newland, Abraham, 30 
 
 Portland, 42 
 
 Bishop Bonner's Palace, 50 
 
 Notes and amounts, 31 
 
 Principle of the Bazaar, 40 
 
 Habits of the people, 50 
 
 Panics and Runs, 21) 
 
 Soho, 40 
 
 BILLINGSGATE : 
 
 Rifles, Company of, 31 
 
 Western Exchange, 41 
 
 Billingsgate discourse, 54 
 
 Weighing Office, 29 
 
 BATNARD'S CASTLE: 
 
 Fish consumed inLondon.55 
 
 BANKSIDE : 
 
 Bainiardus, founder, 40 
 
 Fishfag and Origin of the 
 
 Bear and Bull-baiting, 31 
 
 Baynard's Watering and 
 
 name, 54 
 
 Stews and Theatres, 31 
 
 Bayswater, 40 
 
 Fish-trade, 55 
 
 BARBICAN : 
 
 Humphrey and Richard, 
 
 Market Rebuilt, 55 
 
 Ancient Watch-tower, 32 
 
 Dukes of Gloucester, 40 
 
 BLACKFRIARS : 
 
 Milton's House, 32 
 
 BEGGARS : 
 
 Bedstead, curious ancient, 57 
 
 Origin of Barbican, 32 
 
 Frauds, 42 
 
 Bible translators, 57 
 
 BARTHOLOMEW FAIR : 
 
 Mendicity Society, 42 
 
 Charles V. lodged, 55 
 
 Ben Jonson, Dogget, and 
 
 Sky Farmers, 42 
 
 Henry VIII. and Katherine 
 
 Pepys, 33 
 
 BELGRAVIA : 
 
 of Arragon, 56 
 
 Celebrities, 33, 34 
 
 Belgrave-square built, 43 
 
 Hunsdon House and " Fatal 
 
 City Rights, 33 
 
 Five Fields, 43 
 
 Vespers," 56 
 
 Cloth Fair, 33 
 
 Cubitt.Thomas, sketch of, 43 
 
 Monastery, 55, 56 
 
 Discontinuance of, 36 
 
 BELLS AND CHIMES : 
 
 Mylne, the architect, 57 
 
 Fielding, Shuter, and Wood- 
 
 Bride's, S., 47 
 
 Painters resident, 06 
 
 ward, 35 
 
 Charterhouse, 44 
 
 Parliaments held, 55 
 
 Hentzner at, 33 
 
 Christchurch, 47 
 
 Phillips, Sir Richard, 57 
 
 Hone's account of the Fair 
 
 Clochard, Westminster, 44 
 
 Playhouse, 56 
 
 of 1825, 36 
 
 College and Cumberland 
 
 Shakspeare's house, 56 
 
 Lady Holland's Mob, 35 
 
 Youths, 45 
 
 Railway Station, 57 
 
 Kensington, Lord, 33 
 
 Curfew, or Couvre-feu, 43 
 
 Vandyck resided, 56 
 
 Morley's Memoirs, 33 
 
 Historical bells, 46 
 
 BLACKWALL : 
 
 Origin of the Fair, 32 
 
 S. Leonard's, 47 
 
 Cabinet Fish Dinner, 58 
 
 Pie Poudre Court, S2 
 
 London Scholars, 46 
 
 Chinese junk exhibited, 58 
 
 Priory Fair, 32 
 
 S. Martin's, 47 
 
 Iron Ship-building, 58 
 
 Proclamations and Cool 
 
 S. Mary-le-Bow, 46 
 
 Whitebait fishing, 57 
 
 Tankard, 35 
 
 S. Michael's, 43 
 
 BLIND SCHOOL: 
 
 Punchinello and Puppet 
 
 Rector tolling in, 46 
 
 Day's Charity for Blind, 59 
 
 shows, 34 
 
 Royal Exchange chimes, 48 
 
 Origin of, 58 
 
 Rahere, or Rayer, 32 
 
 S. Paul's Cathedral, 45 
 
 Tudor School-house built, 53 
 
 BARTHOLOMEW'S, S. HOSPITAL: 
 
 S. Saviour's, 48 
 
 Work by the Blind, 58 
 
 Corporation Management, 
 
 S. Sepulchre's, 48 
 
 BREWERIES : 
 
 36, 37 
 
 S. Stephen's, 48 
 
 Barclay & Perkins's, GO 
 
 Henry VIII. founded, 37 
 
 Societies of Ringers, 45 
 
 Globe Theatre site, 60 
 
 Hogarth's Painted Stair- 
 
 Westminster Palace Bells, 44 
 
 Johnson, Dr., and Thrale.GO 
 
 case, 36 
 
 BERMONDSEY : 
 
 Meux & Co., 61 
 
 Origin of the Hospital, 36 
 
 Beormund's Eye, or Island, 
 
 Lion Brewery, 61 
 
 Rebuilt, 36 
 
 49 
 
 Porter, origin of, 59 
 
 Samaritan Fund and View- 
 
 Leather Market, 50 
 
 Reid & Co., 61 
 
 day, 37 
 
 Monastery, founded, 49 
 
 Signs of Breweries, 62 
 
 BATHS, OLDEN : 
 
 Prize altar Picture, 49 
 
 Thrale's Brewery, 60 
 
 Agnes-le-Clair, 37 
 
 Roman Catholic Convent, 49 
 
 Truman, Hanbury,& Co., 61 
 
 Bagnio, Newgate street, 38 
 
 Skin Market, 50 
 
 Water for Brewing, 59, 60 
 
 Baths and Wash-houses, 39 
 
 Spa, old, 50 
 
 Whiibread's Brewery, 59 
 
 Cold Bath, Clerkenwell, 37 
 
 BETHLEM OR BETHLEHEM 
 
 BRIDEWELL HOSPITAL : 
 
 Duke's, or Bagnio, 38 
 
 HOSPITAL : 
 
 Bridewell Boys, 63 
 
 Floating, 39 
 
 Arms of the Hospital, 54 
 
 Burial-place, 64
 
 844 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 BRIDEWELL continued. 
 
 BRIDGES continued. 
 
 CHANCERY-LANE continued. 
 
 Chamberlain's, City, juris- 
 
 Westminster Bridge : 
 
 Southampton House and 
 
 diction, 61 
 
 Labelye, engineer, 70 
 
 Lord W. Russell, 8 3 
 
 Charter picture, not by Hol- 
 
 Lambeth Palace Ferry, 69 
 
 Walton, Isaak, his shop, 82 
 
 bein, 64 
 
 New Bridge, by Page, 71 
 
 CHARING CROSS: 
 
 City Apprentices, refrac- 
 
 Wordsworth's Sonnet, 70 
 
 Bermudas, the, 85 
 
 tory, committed, 63 
 
 BUCKLERSBCRY, 75 
 
 Canaletti's View, 84 
 
 Congregational Church, first. 
 
 Barge-yard andWalbrook,75 
 
 Cherringe village, 83 
 
 established, 64 
 
 Conduit, Great, 75 
 
 Downfatte of Charing Cross, 
 
 "Flock of Slaughter)" in 
 
 Herb-market, and Simplers, 
 
 84 
 
 Bridewell, 64 
 
 75 
 
 Eleanor Cross, the, 83 
 
 Flogging loose persons, 63 
 
 BDNHILL FIELDS : 
 
 Golden Cross Inn, 84 
 
 Hogarth's Harlot's Pro- 
 
 Bunyan and Defoe buried 
 
 Hermitage and Hospital, 84 
 
 gress, 63 
 
 here, 77 
 
 Statue of Charles I.. 84 
 
 Hospital rebuilt, 62 
 
 Curll's Register of inter- 
 
 Payne, the bookbinder, 85 
 
 House of Occupation, 63 
 
 ments, 75 
 
 Proclamations, 84 
 
 Lob's Pound, 63 
 
 Inscriptions, curious, 76 
 
 Taverns, 84 
 
 Norman Palace, 62 
 
 Leased to theCorporation,75 
 
 CHARTERHOUSE : 
 
 Pictures, 64 
 
 Origin of the name, 75 
 
 Burnet, Dr. Thomas, 87 
 
 Presented to the City by 
 
 Persons of note buried here, 
 
 Carthusians, eminent, 87 
 
 Edward VI., 62 
 
 76, 77 
 
 Chapel and Monuments, 86 
 
 BRIDGES : 
 
 Plague burials, 76 
 
 Cbarterhomse grounds and 
 
 Length, breadth, and cost, 71 
 
 Tindal's Lease, 76 
 
 buildings, 86 
 
 Blackfriars Bridge : 
 
 
 Charterhouse Monastery, 85 
 
 Foundation-stone, 72 
 
 PANONBURY TOWER ; 
 
 Elizabethan Chamber, 86 
 
 Mylne, architect, 71 
 
 VJ Canons of S. Bartholo- 
 
 Fags at Charterhouse, 88 
 
 New Bridge, by Cubitt, 72 
 
 mew, 78 
 
 Hall, the Great, 86 
 
 Suicides from, 73 
 
 Chambers and Goldsmith, 78 
 
 Havelock, General, 87 
 
 Chelsea Suspension, by Page, 
 
 Spencer, Sir John, 78 
 
 Hospital of King James, 85 
 
 74 
 
 CARVINGS IN WOOD : 
 
 Manny, Sir Walter, 85 
 
 Hammersmith Suspension, 74 
 
 Canonbury House, 79 
 
 Poor Brethren, 87 
 
 Hungerford Suspension, built 
 
 Chapel of Henry VII., 79 
 
 Portraits, 87 
 
 by I. K. Brunei, 74 
 
 Cheapside, No. 108, 80 
 
 Prior, the last, 85 
 
 Lambeth Suspension, 75 
 
 Cradle for Prince Arthur, 80 
 
 School-rooms, 87 
 
 London Bridge : 
 
 Crosby Hall, and S. Helen's, 
 
 Button's estates, 86 
 
 Budgell and Temple sui- 
 
 Bishopsgate, 79 
 
 Button's tomb, 85 
 
 cides, 67 
 
 Gibbons's carving, 79 
 
 CHEAPSIDE : 
 
 Cost of, 69 
 
 Gog and Magog, Guildhall, 
 
 Barclay's house, 88 
 
 Described by Sir John 
 
 80 
 
 " Beauty of London," 88 
 
 Rennie, 69 
 
 Halls of the City Com- 
 
 Chepe, or Market, 88 
 
 Fires, Insurrections, and 
 
 panies, 79 
 
 Cross, Standard, and Con- 
 
 Sieges, 66 
 
 S. Mary-at-Hill Church, 80 
 
 duit, 89 
 
 First Stone bridge, 65 
 
 S. Michael's Church, Corn- 
 
 Joustings and Watches, 88 
 
 Heads on the gate-houses, 
 
 hill, 80 
 
 Mercers'& Saddlers'Halls,89 
 
 67 
 
 Ormond-st, Queen-sq., 80 
 
 Nag's Head Tavern, 89 
 
 Houses on, 66 
 
 Pulpit of St. Paul's, 79 
 
 Wren, house designed by, 89 
 
 Iron from old piles, 69 
 
 State Coaches, 80 
 
 CHELSEA : 
 
 Norden's View, 66 
 
 Temple Church and West- 
 
 Beaufort and Lindsey Old 
 
 London, first, 65 
 
 minster Abbey, 80 
 
 Mansions, 90 
 
 Opened by William IV., 68 
 
 Westminster Hall roof, 78 
 
 Blacklands and White- 
 
 Osborne and the Leeds 
 
 Westminster New Palace, 80 
 
 lands, 90 
 
 family, 68 
 
 Wood carvings, 79 
 
 Cheyne, Lord, 90 
 
 Peter of Colechurch, 65, 69 
 
 CEMETERIES : 
 
 Churches, St. Luke's, 90 
 
 Railway Bridges, 72, 73, 74 
 
 Abney Park, 82 
 
 Cremorne House, 91 
 
 Rebuilt by Ronnie, 68 
 
 Churchyards planted, 32 
 
 Five Fields, 91 
 
 Trades, old, 67 
 
 Evelyn proposed, 81 
 
 Highwaymen at, 91 
 
 Traffic, 69, 74 
 
 Highgate, 82 
 
 Little Chelsea, 91 
 
 "Waterworks, 67 
 
 Jews' Burial-grounds, 82 
 
 Manor, 89 
 
 South wark Bridge : 
 
 Kensal Green, 81 
 
 Mazarin, Duchess of, 90 
 
 Built of Iron, by John 
 
 Norwood, 82 
 
 More, Sir Thomas, mansion 
 
 Rennie, 73 
 
 Nunhead, 82 
 
 of, 90 
 
 Opened, 74 
 
 Victoria Park, 82 
 
 Origin of Name, 89 
 
 Vauxhall ; 
 
 West London, 82 
 
 Saltero's Museum, and 
 
 Built of Iron, by Walker, 72 
 
 CHANCERY-LANE : 
 
 Coffeehouse, 90 
 
 Waterloo Bridge : 
 
 Chichester, Bishop's Palace, 
 
 Signs, curious, 91 
 
 Built by John Rennie, 73 
 
 82 
 
 Sloane, Sir Hans, 90 
 
 Great cost of, 73 
 
 Lincoln's Inn gateway, 83 
 
 Turner, the painter, death 
 
 Opened, 73 
 
 Name, 82 
 
 of, 91 
 
 Suicides from, 73 
 
 Serjeants' Inn, 82 
 
 Waterworks, 91
 
 INDEX. 
 
 845 
 
 CHELSEA BUNS : ! CHAPELS continued. 
 
 CHAPELS continued. 
 
 Bun-house, Old, 91 
 
 Moravian, Fetter-lane, 220 
 
 Magdalen Hospital, Black- 
 
 Curiosities of, 92 
 
 Kational Scotch Church, 
 
 friars-road, 213 
 
 George II. and III., and 
 
 Covent Garden, 221 
 
 Margaret-street, 213 
 
 their Queens, 91 
 
 Old Gravel-pit,Hackney,221 
 
 S. Slark's, North Audley- 
 
 Swift and Stella, 91 
 
 Oxendon, Haymarket, 221 
 
 street, 214 
 
 CHELSEA PORCELAIN : 
 
 Presbyterian, Hackney, 224 
 
 S. Mark's, Fulham-rd., 214 
 
 Bow porcelain, 94 
 
 Presbyterian, Newington- 
 
 Percy, Charlotte-street, 214 
 
 Dr. Johnson's experiments, 
 
 green, 221 
 
 S. Peter's, Queen-sq., 214 
 
 94 
 
 Providence, Marylebone, 221 
 
 S. Peter's, Vere-street, 214 
 
 Manufactory, 94 
 
 Providence, Gray's-inn-lane, 
 
 S. Philip's, Regent-st, 215 
 
 Rare specimens, 94 
 
 221 
 
 Portland, Great Portland- 
 
 CHESS CLUBS : 
 
 Regent's-square, Gray's-inn- 
 
 street, 215 
 
 Philidor, 95 
 
 road, 222 
 
 Quebec, Quebec-street, 215 
 
 St. George's, London, Di- 
 
 Scotch Church, Swallow- 
 
 Ragged Church, 215 
 
 vans, Parsloe's, Salopian, 
 
 street. 222 
 
 Rolls, Chancery-lane, 215 
 
 Slaughter's, 95 
 
 South-place, Finsbury, 222 
 
 Tenison's, Regent-st., 215 
 
 CHRIST'S HOSPITAL : 
 
 Spa-fields, 222 
 
 Trinity, Conduit-street, 216 
 
 Abuses, alleged, 100 
 
 Stepney Meeting, 223 
 
 Trinity, Knightsbridge, 216 
 
 Bequests, early, 96 
 
 Surrey, 223 
 
 York-st., St. James's, 216 
 
 Blue-coat girl, 97 
 
 Swedenborg Church, Ar- 
 
 CHURCHES, FOREIGN PRO- 
 
 "Blue Coat School," 96 
 
 gyle-square, 223 
 
 TESTANT : 
 
 Blues, eminent, 99 
 
 Tabernacle, Metropolitan, 
 
 Dutch, Austin Friars, 216 
 
 Charity to the Blind, 101 
 
 223 
 
 French, 217 
 
 Cloisters of Hospital, 100 
 
 Tabernacle, 3Ioorfields, 223 
 
 Savoy, 217 
 
 Drawing-room presenta- 
 
 Trinity Independents, Pop- 
 
 Swiss, 217 
 
 tions, 99 
 
 lar, 224 
 
 ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCHES 
 
 Edward VI., grant from, 96 
 
 United Presbyterian, 224 
 
 AND CHAPELS: 
 
 Exhibitions for Scholar- 
 
 Unity Church, Islington, 224 
 
 Ambassadors' Chapels, 229 
 
 ships, 99 
 
 Weigh-house, Fish-street- 
 
 Bavarian, Warwick-st., 229 
 
 Foundation of, 95 
 
 hill, 224 
 
 S. George's, S. George's 
 
 Girls' School, Hertford, 101 
 
 Wesley an, City-road, 224 
 
 Fields, 230 
 
 Grants from Henry VIII.,95 
 
 Wesleyan,Kentish-town,225 
 
 Immaculate Conception, 
 
 Grey Friars' monastery, 96 
 
 Wesleyan, Great Queen- 
 
 Farm-street, 230 
 
 Hall, Great, 97 
 
 street, 225 
 
 Italian, Hatton-wall, 231 
 
 Hertford establishment, 101 
 
 Wesleyan, Liverpool-rd., 225 
 
 S. John of Jerusalem, Great 
 
 Hospital, originally, 96 
 
 Whitefield's Tabernacle.Tot- 
 
 Ormond-street, 230 
 
 Hospital rebuilt, 97 
 
 tenham-court-rd., 225,790 
 
 S. John, Evangelist, Isling- 
 
 Income, 100 
 
 Zoar (Bunyan's) Southwark, 
 
 ton, 231 
 
 Library, 100 
 
 226 
 
 S. Mary's, Moorflelds, 231 
 
 Livery or Dress, 96 
 
 CHAPELS, EPISCOPAL : 
 
 S. Monica's, Hoxton, 232 
 
 Mathematical School, 97 
 
 Asylum for Female Or- 
 
 Oratory, Brompton, 232 
 
 Orations, 98 
 
 phans, 209 
 
 Onr Lady's, S. John's-wood, 
 
 Penmanship, 99 
 
 S. Bartholomew's, Kings- 
 
 232 
 
 Pictures, 98 
 
 land, 209 
 
 S. Patrick's, Sutton-st., 232 
 
 Presentations, and Gover- 
 
 Bedfordbury, 209 
 
 Sardinian, Lincoln's - Inn 
 
 nors, 101 
 
 Bentinck, Chapel-street, 
 
 Fields, 232 
 
 President, election of, 101 
 
 New-road, 210 
 
 * Spanish, Spanish-pi., 233 
 
 Reports, 100, 101 
 
 Charlotte (Dodd's), Pimlico, 
 
 CHURCHES OF LONDON : 
 
 Ridley, Bishop, 96 
 
 210 
 
 Bishop of London's Fund, 
 
 Spital Sermons, 99 
 
 Duke-st., Westminster, 210 
 
 103 
 
 Suppings in Public, 98 
 
 Foundling Hospital, Gail- 
 
 Churches destroyed in the 
 
 Writing School, 97 
 
 ford-street, 210 
 
 Great Fire, and not re- 
 
 CHAPELS, DISSENTERS : 
 
 Gray's-Inn, 211 
 
 built, 102 
 
 Albion, Moorgate, 219 
 
 Grosvenor, South Audley- 
 
 City Churches, great num- 
 
 Baptist, Little Wild-st, 219 
 
 street, 211 
 
 ber of, 103 
 
 Baptist, Bloomsbury-st., 219 
 
 Hanover, Regent-street, 211 
 
 Metropolis Churches Fund, 
 
 Baptist, Notting Dale, 219 
 
 House of Charity, Soho, 211 
 
 103 
 
 Caledonian, Hatton Garden, 
 
 S.James's, Hampstead-road, 
 
 Middle Ages, 102 
 
 219 
 
 212 
 
 Queen Anne Churches, 102 
 
 Canonbury, Islington, 220 
 
 S. James's, Pentonville, 212 
 
 Saxon, 101 
 
 Catholic and Apostolic, Gor- 
 
 S. John's, Bedford-row, 212 
 
 Wren's churches, 102 
 
 don-square, 220 
 
 Kentish-town, 212 
 
 S. Paul's, Old : 
 
 Congregational, Kentish 
 
 King's College, 212 
 
 Bankes's Horse, 106 
 
 Town, 220 
 
 S. John's Wood, 212 
 
 Cloisters, Dance of Death, 
 
 Essex-street, Strand, 220 
 
 Lamb, Monkwell-st., 212 
 
 104 
 
 Highbury, 220 
 
 Leadenhall, 203 
 
 Conversion of S. Paul, An- 
 
 Independent,Kingsland,220 
 
 Lincoln's Inn, 213 
 
 niversary, 104 
 
 Jewin-st., Aldersgate, 220 
 
 S. Luke's, Fulham-road, 213 
 
 Dimensions of cathedral, 104
 
 846 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 CHURCHES continued. 
 
 CHURCHES continued. 
 
 CHURCHES continued. 
 
 Duke Humphrey'sTomb,10C> 
 
 Centenary, Eighth, Celebra- 
 
 Tombs, celebrated, 138 
 
 St. Faith's and Gregory's 
 
 tion of, 140 
 
 Waxwork Exhibition, 128, 
 
 Churches, 104 
 
 Chapels : Abbot Isiip's, 128 ; 
 
 818 
 
 First and Second Churches, 
 
 S. Benedict's, 124 ; S. 
 
 Chapel Royal, St. James's : 
 
 S. Paul's, 104 
 
 Blaise's, 123 ; S. Ed- 
 
 Children of the Chapel 
 
 Great Fire of 1666, 107 
 
 mund's, 124 ; Edward the 
 
 Royal, 141 
 
 Miracles, Penances, and 
 
 Confessor's, 127 ; S. Eras- 
 
 Choral service, 140 
 
 Shrines, 105 
 
 mus's, 127; Henry VII. 's, 
 
 Holbein's ceiling, 140 
 
 Monuments, 105, 106, 115 
 
 125; S. John Baptist's, 
 
 Spur Money, 141 
 
 Paul's or Powly's Cross, 105 
 
 128; S. Nicholas's, 125; 
 
 Chapel Royal, Savoy : 
 
 Paul's Jacks, 106 
 
 S. Paul's, 127 
 
 Altar-screen, 144 
 
 Paul's Walk, 106 
 
 Chapter-house, Cloisters, 
 
 Architecture, 143 
 
 Portico, by Inigo Jones, 107 
 
 North Transept, South 
 
 Christmas-day customs, 144 
 
 Ruins cleared, 107 
 
 Side, Western Front, 121 
 
 Fires and Restorations, 144 
 
 Spire burnt, 104 
 
 Chapter-house described,126 
 
 Grant of Henry III., 14-2 
 
 S. Paul's : 
 
 Choir, Monuments, and 
 
 Persons of note buried, 143 
 
 Admission money, 116 
 
 Pavements, 131, 132 
 
 Prison of the Savoy, 144 
 
 Ball and Cross, 115 
 
 Choir refitted, 132 
 
 Royal Closet, 142 
 
 Chapter-house, 116 
 
 Choir Screen, 134 
 
 Royal Printing-press, 143 
 
 Clock and Great Bell, 112 
 
 Cloisters, Monuments, 137 
 
 Rubens's ceiling, 142 
 
 Crypt, 113 
 
 Coronations in the Abbey 
 
 Savoy Marriages, 143 
 
 Dimensions of cathedral,117 
 
 Church, 133 
 
 Schools at the Savoy, 142 
 
 Dome, Thornhill's Pictures, 
 
 Coronation of Georgel V. 133 
 
 Chapel Royal, Whitehall : 
 
 114 
 
 Coronation of Queen Vic- 
 
 Boyle Lectures, 142 
 
 Exterior, 109 
 
 toria, 133 
 
 Hospital, 142 
 
 Fabric Fund, 117 
 
 Coronation Chairs, 130 
 
 Maundy distribution, 142 
 
 Festivals, 116 
 
 Domesday Book, 137 
 
 Not consecrated, 141 
 
 First etone .laid by Charles 
 
 Edward the Confessor, 118 
 
 Churches : 
 
 II., 108 
 
 Elizabeth, Queen, reor- 
 
 S. Alban's, Baldwin's Gar- 
 
 Galleries, Outer, 115 
 
 ganizes, 120 
 
 dens, 144 
 
 Grave of Wren, 113 
 
 Exterior Views, 120 
 
 S. Alban's, Wood-street, 
 
 Ground-plan, 109 
 
 Fees for Monuments, 123 
 
 Cheapside, 145 
 
 Gwilt, Joseph, on, 110 
 
 Foundation, 117, 118 
 
 Allhallows Barking, Great 
 
 Heights, 110 
 
 Gravestones in South Tran- 
 
 Tower-street, 145 
 
 Homer's Sketches from, 115 
 
 sept, 123 
 
 Allhallows, Bread-st.,146 
 
 Model-room, 111 
 
 Ground-plan, 121, 124 
 
 Allhallows, Great and Less, 
 
 Monuments, 112 
 
 Henry III. rebuilds, 118 
 
 Upper Thames-street, 146 
 
 Nelson's Tomb, 113 
 
 Interior described, 121 
 
 Allhallows, Honey-lane,146 
 
 Order against Swearing,109 
 
 Jerusalem Chamber, 135 
 
 Allhallows, Lombard -St., 146 
 
 Organs, 112 
 
 Library of the Dean and 
 
 Allhallows Staining, Mark- 
 
 Painted Windows, 117 
 
 Chapter, 136 
 
 lane, 146 
 
 Painters' Corner, 113 
 
 Litlington's buildings, 119 
 
 Allhallows - in - the - Wall, 
 
 Picton's remains, 114 
 
 Litlington Tower, 137 
 
 Broad-street Ward, 147 
 
 Plot against Queen Anne, 
 
 Metal work and Brasses, 139 
 
 All Saints, Bishopsgate, 147 
 
 109 
 
 Models, various, 137 
 
 All Saints, Knightsbridge, 
 
 Position of Old and New 
 
 Musical Festivals, 138 
 
 147 
 
 Cathedrals, 108 
 
 Nave and its monuments, 
 
 All Saints, Lambeth, 147 
 
 Re-decoration, 117 
 
 134, 135 
 
 All Souls, Langham-pl., 147 
 
 Secured from Lightning.llO 
 
 Nave rebuilt, 119 
 
 All Saints, Margaret-st.,147 
 
 State Processions, 116 
 
 North Transept, Monuments 
 
 All Saints, Poplar-lane, 149 
 
 Views, 116, 117 
 
 in, 130, 131 
 
 S. Alphage, London Wall, 
 
 Wellington's Funeral and 
 
 Organs described, 138 
 
 149 
 
 Tomb, 114 
 
 Painted and Stained Glass, 
 
 S. Andrew's, Kingsland- 
 
 Wellington's Funeral Car, 
 
 138 
 
 road, 149 
 
 exhibition of, 114 
 
 St. Peter, dedication to, 119 
 
 S.Andrew's Holborn, 149 
 
 Whispering Gallery ex- 
 
 Poets' Corner, Tombs in, 
 
 S. Andrew's Undershaft, 
 
 plained, 111, 112 
 
 122, 123 
 
 Leadenhall-street,' 150 ; 
 
 Wightwick on the architec- 
 
 Pulpit, new, 135 
 
 Stow, sketch of, 150 
 
 ture, 111 
 
 Remains, most ancient, 120 
 
 S. Andrew by the Ward- 
 
 Wren's Design, and Model, 
 
 Sanctuary, 119 
 
 robe, Castle Baynard, 150 
 
 107 
 
 Sebert's Church, 117 
 
 S. Andrew's, Wells-st., 150 
 
 Westminster Abbey : 
 
 Shrine of Edward the Con- 
 
 S. Anne's, Blackfriars, 150 
 
 Admeasurements, 139 
 
 fessor, 129, 130 
 
 S. Anne's, Limehouse, 130 
 
 Altar-painting, curious 
 
 Shrine of Henry V., 129 
 
 S. Anne's, Soho, 151 
 
 early, 124 
 
 Spur-money, 126 
 
 S. Anthony 's,Budge-row, 151 
 
 Ambulatory, 125 
 
 Stanley, Dean, on West- 
 
 S. Augustine's, Watling- 
 
 Ancient Remains described, 
 
 minster Abbey, 139, 140 
 
 street, 151 
 
 120 
 
 Tablets to Queen Mary, 126 
 
 S. Barnabas, Pimlico, 151
 
 INDEX. 
 
 847 
 
 CHURCHES continued. 
 
 CHURCHES continued. 
 
 CHURCHBS continued. 
 
 S. Barnabas, Edgware-rd., 
 
 S. Gregory by S. Paul's, 165 
 
 S. Mary Abbots, Kensing- 
 
 152 
 
 S. Helen's, Bishopsgate, 165 
 
 ton, 181 
 
 S. Bartholomew by the Ex- 
 
 S. Katharine's, Regent's- 
 
 S. Mary Abchurch, Ab- 
 
 change, 152 
 
 park, 166 
 
 church-lane, 182 
 
 S. Bartholomew the Great, 
 
 S. James's, Aldgate, 167 
 
 S. Mary Aldermary, Bow- 
 
 152 
 
 S. James's, ClerkeHwell, 168 
 
 lane, 182 
 
 S. Bartholomew the Less, 
 
 S. James's, Garlick Hithe, 
 
 S. Mary's, Battersea, 182 
 
 153 
 
 168 
 
 S. Mary-le-Bone, High-st., 
 
 S. Benet,Gracechurch-street, 
 
 S. James the Less, West- 
 
 183 
 
 153 
 
 minster, 168 
 
 S.Marylebone,New-road,193 
 
 S. Bennet Fink, 154 
 
 S. James's, Piccadilly, 169 
 
 S. Mary-le-Bow, Cheapside, 
 
 S. Bennet, Paul's- wharf, 154 
 
 S. James's, Shoreditch, 171 
 
 183 
 
 S. Bennet Sherehog, 154 
 
 S.James's, Bermondsey,171 
 
 S. Mary's, Islington, 184 
 
 S. Botolph's, Aldgate, 154 
 
 S. John's, Hackney, 171 
 
 S. Mary's, Lambeth, 185 
 
 S. Botolph's, Bishopsgate, 
 
 S. John's, Bethnal Green,171 
 
 S. Mary-at-Hill, Eastcheap, 
 
 154 
 
 S.John's.Clerkenwell: Cock- 
 
 185 
 
 Bow church, see S. Mary- 
 
 lane Ghost, 171 
 
 S. Mary Magdalene, Ber- 
 
 le-Bow 
 
 S. John the Evangelist, 
 
 mondsey, 186 
 
 S. Bride's, Fleet-street, 155 
 
 Charlotte-street, Fitzroy- 
 
 S. Mary Magdalen, Mun- 
 
 British and Foreign Sailors', 
 
 square, 171 
 
 ster-square, 186 
 
 Wellclose-square, 156 
 
 S. John the Evangelist, 
 
 S. Mary Magdalen, Old Fish- 
 
 Camden Church, Camber- 
 
 Horselydown, 171 
 
 street, 186 
 
 well, 156 
 
 S. John the Evangelist, 
 
 S. Mary Matfelon, White- 
 
 S. Catherine Cree, Leaden- 
 
 Westminster, 171 
 
 chapel, 186 
 
 hall-street, 156 
 
 S. John the Evangelist, 
 
 S. Mary's, Newington-butts, 
 
 S. Chad.Haggerston, 156 
 
 Waterloo-road, 172 
 
 187 
 
 Christ Church, Westminster, 
 
 S. John of Jerusalem, South 
 
 S. Mary's, Paddington, 187 
 
 156 
 
 Hackney, 172 
 
 S.Mary's, Rotherhithe, 187 
 
 Christ Church, Clapham, 157 
 
 S. John's, Notting-hill, 172 
 
 S. Mary Somerset, Queen- 
 
 Christ Church, Piccadilly, 
 
 S. John's, Oxford-square, 
 
 bithe, 187 
 
 157 
 
 Paddingtoa, 172 
 
 S. Mary's, Stoke Newington, 
 
 Christ Church, Highbury, 
 
 S. Jude's, Gray's-inn-road, 
 
 187 
 
 157 
 
 173 
 
 S. Mary-le-Strand, 188 
 
 Christ Church, Newgate- 
 
 S. Lawrence Jewry, King- 
 
 S. Mary's, Wynd ham-pi., 188 
 
 street, 157: Spital Ser- 
 
 street, Cheapside, 173 
 
 S. Mary Woolnoth, Lom- 
 
 mons, 157 
 
 S. Leonard's, Eastcheap, 173 
 
 bard-street, 188 
 
 Christ Church, Poplar, 157 
 
 S. Leonard's, Shoreditch, 
 
 S. Matthew's, Bethnal- 
 
 Christ Church, Spitalfields, 
 
 173 
 
 green, 189 
 
 157 
 
 S. Luke's,Edgware-road,174 
 
 S. Matthew's, City-road, 189 
 
 S.Clement's, Eastcheap, 158 
 
 S. Luke's (Old), Chelsea, 174 
 
 S. Matthias's, Stoke New- 
 
 S. Clement's Danes, 158 
 
 S.Luke's (New), Chelsea,175 
 
 ington, 189 
 
 S. Clement's, Islington, 159 
 
 S. Luke's, Old-street-road, 
 
 S. Matthew's, Brixton, 189 
 
 S. Clement 's.Barnsbury, 15 9 
 
 176 
 
 8. Michael and All Angels, 
 
 S. Dionis Backchurch, 159 
 
 S. Magnus the Martyr, 
 
 Finsbury, 190 
 
 S. Dunstan's-in-the-East, 
 
 London Bridge, 176 
 
 S. Michael Bassishaw, Ba- 
 
 Tower-street, 159 
 
 S. Margaret's, Lothbury,176 
 
 singhall-street, 190 
 
 S. Dunstan's-in-the-West, 
 
 S. Margaret Pattens, Fen- 
 
 S. Michael's, Pimlico, 190 
 
 Fleet-street, 159 
 
 church-street, 176 
 
 S. Michael's, Cornhill, 190 
 
 8. Dunstan's, Stepney, 161 
 
 S. Margaret's, Westminster : 
 
 S. Michael's, Crooked-lane, 
 
 S. Edmund's, (King and 
 
 Overseer's Box and 
 
 191 
 
 Martyr), Lombard-st-, 161 
 
 Painted Window, 177 
 
 S.MichaelPaternosterRoyal, 
 
 S. Ethelburga's,Bishopsgate- 
 
 179 
 
 Upper Thames-st., 191 
 
 street, 161 
 
 S. Mark's, Kennington Com- 
 
 S. Michael's, Queenhithe,! 92 
 
 S. Ethelreda's, Ely-pi., 161 
 
 mon, 179 
 
 S. Michael's, Wood-st., 192 
 
 S. George's, Kensington, 162 
 
 S. Mark's, Old-street-road, 
 
 S. Mildred's, Bread-st., 192 
 
 S. George's,Hanover-square, 
 
 179 
 
 S. Mildred's, Poultry, 192 
 
 162 
 
 S. Mark's, Victoria Docks, 
 
 S. Nicholas Cole Abbey, 
 
 S. George's in the East, 
 
 179 
 
 Fish-street-hill, 192 
 
 Ratcliff Highway, Raine's 
 
 S. Martin's -in -the -Fields, 
 
 S. Olave's, Hart-street, 192 
 
 Marriage Charity, 162 
 
 Strand, 179 
 
 S. Olave's, Jewry, 193 
 
 S. George's, Queen-sq.,162 
 
 S. Martin's, Gospel Oak 
 
 S. Olave's, Tooley-st., 193 
 
 S. George the Martyr, 
 
 Fields, 180 
 
 S.Pancras-in-the-Fields,193 
 
 Queen-sq., 163 
 
 S. Martin's, Ironmonger- 
 
 S. Paucras, Eustou-road, 194 
 
 S. George the Martyr, 
 
 lane, 180 
 
 S.Paul's.St.John's-wood.lOS 
 
 Southwark, 163 
 
 S. Martin Orgar, Eastcheap, 
 
 S. Paul's, Camden New 
 
 S. Giles's, Camberwell, 163 
 
 181 
 
 Town, 195 
 
 S. Giles's, Cripplegate, 163 
 
 S. Martin's Outwich, Bi- 
 
 S.Paul's,Covent Garden,195 
 
 S. Giles's-in-the-fields, 164 
 
 shopsgate-street, 181 
 
 S. Paul's, Herne-hill, 186
 
 843 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 CHURCHES continued. 
 
 CLERKENWELL continued. 
 
 CLUBS continued. 
 
 S. Paul's, Lorrimore-square, 
 
 S. John's Gate, 236 
 
 Mulberries, 252 
 
 Walworth, 196 
 
 Newcastle, Duke of, 236 
 
 Museum, 252 
 
 S. Paul's, for seamen, 196 
 
 Oldcastle, Sir John, 238 
 
 National, 252 
 
 S. Paul's, Shadwell. 196 
 
 Pinks's History of Clerken- 
 
 Naval, Royal, 252 
 
 S. Paul's,Knightsbridge, 197 
 
 well, 238 
 
 Naval and Military, 253 
 
 S. Peter's, Belsize-park, 19 
 
 Priory Church, 236 
 
 Noviomagians, 253 
 
 S. Peter's, Cornhill, 197 
 
 Red Bull Theatre, 236 
 
 October, 253 
 
 S. Peter's, Pimlico, 197 
 
 Watch andClockmakiug,238 
 
 Oriental, 253 
 
 S. Peter's, Saffron-hill, 197 
 
 CLIMATE OF LONDON: 
 
 Oxford and Cambridge, 253 
 
 S. Peter's, Bankside, 197 
 
 Change of Air, 239 
 
 PallMall, Club-houses in,254 
 
 S. Peter-le-Poor, Old Broad 
 
 Howard on, 238 
 
 Parthenon, 254 
 
 street, 197 
 
 Smoke, 239 
 
 Phoenix, 254 
 
 S. Peter's, Vauxhall, 197 
 
 Temperature, 238 
 
 Portland, 254 
 
 S. Peter ad Vincula, Tower 
 
 Winds, effect of, 239 
 
 Prince of Wales's, 254 
 
 198 
 
 CLUBS AND CLUB-HOUSES : 
 
 Reform, 254 
 
 S. Peter's, Walworth-rd., 198 
 
 Alfred, 240 
 
 Reform, Junior, 255 
 
 S. Peter's, Great Windmill- 
 
 Almack's, 240 
 
 Robin Hood, 255 
 
 street, 199 
 
 Alpine, 240 
 
 Rota, or Coffee Club, 255 
 
 S. Saviour's, Clapham Com- 
 
 Apollo, 240 
 
 Roxburghe, 255 
 
 mon, 199 
 
 Army and Navy, 241 
 
 Royal Society Club, 256 
 
 S. Saviour's, Hoxton, 199 
 
 Arts, 241 
 
 Royal Thames Yacht, 256 
 
 S. Saviour's, South wark, 199 
 
 Arthur's, 241 
 
 Scriblerus, 256 
 
 S. Sepulchre's, Skinner-st. 
 
 Athenaeum, 241 
 
 Smithfleld, 256 
 
 S. Simon's, Chelsea, 203 
 
 Athenaeum, Junior, 242 
 
 Thatched House, 257 
 
 S.Stephen's,Coleman-st.,2 3 
 
 Beef-steak Club, 243 
 
 Tom's Coffee-house, 257 
 
 S. Stephen the -Martyr, 
 
 Beef-steak Society, 243 
 
 Travellers', 257 
 
 Portland-town, 203 
 
 Blue-stocking Club, 243 
 
 Treason, 258 
 
 S. Stephen the Martyr, 
 
 Boodle's, 242 
 
 Union, 258 
 
 Westminster, 203 
 
 British and Foreign Insti- 
 
 United Service, 258 
 
 S. Stephen's, Spitalflelds, 204 
 
 tute, 244 
 
 United Service, Junior, 258 
 
 S. Stephen's, Walbrook,204 
 
 Brooks 's, 242 
 
 University, 259 
 
 S. Swithin's, London Stone, 
 
 Brothers' Club, 244 
 
 Universities Union, 259 
 
 205 
 
 Carl ton, 244 
 
 Urban, 259 
 
 Temple Church, 205 
 
 Carlton, Junior, 250 
 
 Volunteer Service, 259 
 
 S. Thomas the Apostle, 207 
 
 Cavendish, 244 
 
 Watier's, 259 
 
 S. Thomas,Charterhouse,208 
 
 City, 244 
 
 Wednesday, 259, 260 
 
 S. Thomas's, Southwark, 208 
 
 City, New, 244 
 
 Westminster, 260 
 
 Trinity, Albany-street, 208 
 
 Civil Service, 244 
 
 Whist Club, 260 
 
 Trinity, Brompton, 208 
 
 Civil, 245 
 
 White's, 260 
 
 Trinity,Gray's Inn-road,208 
 
 Clifford-street, 245 
 
 Whittington, 261 
 
 Trinity, Haverstock-hill,208 
 
 Club Chambers, 245 
 
 Windham, 261 
 
 Trinity, Holy, Minories, 208 
 
 Clubs, origin of, 239 
 
 COFFEE-HOUSES : 
 
 Trinity, Paddington, 208 
 
 Cocoa-tree, 245 
 
 Baker's, 261 
 
 Trinity ,VauxhallBridge,208 
 
 Conservative, 246 
 
 Baltic, 261 
 
 S. Vedast's, Foster-lane, 209 
 
 County, 246 
 
 Bedford, 261 
 
 Towers and Spires, 209 
 
 Coventry House, 246 
 
 British, 262 
 
 CITY WALLS AND GATES : 
 
 Crockford's (Crockford's ca- 
 
 Button's, (Lion's Head), 262 
 
 Aldgate, Alderpgate, Bi- 
 
 reer, note), 246 
 
 Chapter, 263 
 
 shopsgate, Cripplegate, 
 
 Dilettanti Society, 247 
 
 Child's, 264 
 
 Ludgate, Newgate, 233 
 
 EastIndiaUnitedService,247 
 
 Clifford-street, 264 
 
 City and Liberties, 235 
 
 Eccentric, 248 
 
 Cocoa-tree, 264 
 
 Cripplegate Bastion, 234 
 
 Eccentrics, the, 248 
 
 Coffee first drank in London, 
 
 Gates, position of, 234, 235 
 
 Erechtheium, 248 
 
 261 
 
 London, derivation, 233,235 
 
 Essex Head, 248 
 
 Coffee-shops, 2.73 
 
 London destroyed by the 
 
 Farmers', 248 
 
 Dick's, 264 
 
 Great Fire, 236 
 
 Fielding, 249 
 
 Garra way's, 265 
 
 Ludgate Statues, 235 
 
 Four-in-hand, 249 
 
 George's, 264 
 
 Norman Wall, 234 
 
 Garrick, (Pictures), 249 
 
 Gray's, junior, 265 
 
 Roman Wall, 233, 234, 235 
 
 Gresham, 250 *' 
 
 Grecian, 264 . 
 
 CLERKENWELL : 
 
 Grillion's, 250 
 
 S. James's, 265 
 
 Bagnigge Wells, 237 
 
 Guards, 250 
 
 Jamaica, 266 
 
 Britton, the Musical Small- 
 
 Independents, 250 
 
 Jerusalem, 266 
 
 coal Man, 236 
 
 Ivy-lane, 250 
 
 Jonathan's, 266 
 
 Clerks' Well, 236, 237 
 
 King of Clubs, 250 
 
 Langbourn, 266 
 
 Cobham-row and Cold Bath- 
 
 Kit-Kat (Pictures), 250 
 
 Lloyd's, 266 
 
 , square, 238 
 
 Law Institution, 251 
 
 London, 267 
 
 Hicks's Hall, 237 
 
 Literary Club, 251 
 
 Man's, 267 
 
 Hockley-in-the-Hole, 237 
 
 Mermaid, 252 
 
 Miles's, 267
 
 INDEX. 
 
 849 
 
 COFFEE-HOUSES continued. 
 
 COMMON COUNCIL continued. 
 
 CROSBY HALL : 
 
 Munday's, 267 
 
 Origin of, 286 
 
 Architecture of, 298 
 
 Nando's, 267 
 
 Wards, 286 
 
 Crosby, Sir John, 297 
 
 New England, 2G7 
 
 CONDUITS: 
 
 Mayoralties kept here, 297 
 
 Peele's, 2C7 
 
 Bayswater, 287 
 
 More, Sir Thomas, 297 
 
 Percy, 268 
 
 Canonbury, 287 
 
 Musical memories, 298 
 
 Piazza, 268 
 
 Cheapside, 287 
 
 Presby terianMeeting-house, 
 
 Rainbow, 268 
 
 Conduit-mead, 287 
 
 298 
 
 Saltero's, at Chelsea, 268 
 
 Cornhill, 287 
 
 Restoration in 1842, 298 
 
 Sam's, 268 
 
 Dalston and Islington, 288 
 
 Richard, Duke of Glouces- 
 
 Serle's, 270 
 
 Fleet-street, 288 
 
 ter, 297 
 
 Slaughter's, 270 
 
 S. James's, 288 
 
 Roof of the Hall, 298, 299 
 
 Smyrna, 270 
 
 King's-mews, 289 
 
 Shakspeare in S. Helen's, 
 
 Somerset, 270 
 
 Kensington, 288 
 
 297 
 
 Squire's, 270 
 
 Lamb's, 288 
 
 Spencer, Sir John, 298 
 
 Tom's, 271 
 
 Stow's account of, 287 
 
 Statue of Sir J. Crosby, 299 
 
 Tom King's. 271 
 
 Tyburn, 288 
 
 CRUTCHED FRIARS: 
 
 Turk's Head, 271 
 
 Westminster Abbey, 289 
 
 Crouched or Crossed, 299 
 
 Will's, 272 
 
 Westminster Palace, 289 
 
 Drapers' Almshouses, 299 
 
 Will's, Serle-street, 273 
 
 CONVENTS : 
 
 Jewry-st., old Wall in, 300 
 
 COLLEGES : 
 
 Colleges, Fraternities, Friar- 
 
 Northumberland House, 299 
 
 S. Barnabas, 273 
 
 ies, Hospitals, Nunneries, 
 
 Roman occupation, 299 
 
 Church of England Train- 
 
 Priories, 289, 290 
 
 CRYPTS : 
 
 ing, 273 
 
 Revivals, 290 
 
 S. Bartholomew's, 300 
 
 Church Missionary, 273 
 
 Sisters of Mercy, Bermond- 
 
 Bishopsgate Within, 300 
 
 Chemistry, 273 
 
 sey, 290 
 
 Bow Church, 300 
 
 Dulwich, 274 
 
 Taking of the Veil, 290 
 
 S. Ethelreda's, 301 
 
 Gresham, 274 
 
 CORNHILL : 
 
 Garraway's, 301 
 
 Heralds', 275 
 
 Birchin & Finch-lanes, 291 
 
 Gerard's Hall, 301 
 
 King's College and Schools, 
 
 Birch, the cook and con- 
 
 Guildhall, 301 
 
 276 
 
 fectioner, 291 
 
 " Guy Fawkes's Cellar," 301 
 
 S. Mark's, 277 * 
 
 Change-alley and Garra- 
 
 Hostelry of the Priors of 
 
 New College, 277 
 
 way's, 291 
 
 Lewes, 302 
 
 Physicians, 277 
 
 Church of S. Christopher-le- 
 
 S. John's, Clerkenwell, 302 
 
 Preceptors, 279 
 
 Stocks, 290 
 
 Lambeth Palace, 302 
 
 Queen's, 279 
 
 Guy /he stationer, 292 
 
 Lamb's Chapel, 302 
 
 Sion, 279 
 
 Lottery prize, 291 
 
 Leathersellers' Hall, 303 
 
 Surgeons, 279 
 
 Roman remains, .291 
 
 London Bridge, old, 300 
 
 University, 280 
 
 Royal Exchange, 291 
 
 S. Martin's-le-Grand, 303 
 
 Wesleyan Normal, 280 
 
 Standard and Tun, 290 
 
 S. Mary Aldermary, 303 
 
 COLOSSEUM : 
 
 Taverns, early, 291 
 
 Merchant Tailors' Hall, 303 
 
 Classic Ruins, 283 
 
 COVENT GARDEN : 
 
 S. Michael's, 303 
 
 Conservatories and Swiss 
 
 Butler, epitaphs on, 295 
 
 S. Paul's, 303 
 
 Chalets, 282 
 
 Clay's Papier Mdche, 29.6 
 
 S. Stephen's, Westminster 
 
 Construction, 280 
 
 Convent burial-ground and 
 
 Palace, 304 
 
 Cost of, 283 
 
 garden, 292 
 
 Tower of London, 804 
 
 Hornor, planned by, 280 
 
 Dryden cudgelled, 295 
 
 CURIOSITY SHOPS : 
 
 Le Colisee, at Paris, 281 
 
 Evans's Hotel, 294 
 
 Carvings, China and Ena- 
 
 London by Night, 282 
 
 Garrick Club, 295 
 
 mels, Church Furniture, 
 
 Panorama of London, 
 
 Hollar's view, 293 
 
 Painted Glass, and Metal 
 
 painted, 281 
 
 Hotels and Taverns, 293 
 
 Works, 294 
 
 Parris, Mr., 281, 282 
 
 King-st. and Rose-st., 295 
 
 Hanway-street and War- 
 
 Sketches from S. Paul's, 281 
 
 Maiden-lane, Marvell, Tur- 
 
 dour-street, 304 
 
 Theatre and Cyclorama, 283 
 
 ner, and Voltaire, 296 
 
 Ireland's Shakspeare For- 
 
 View described, 282 
 
 Market first held, 293 
 
 geries, 305 
 
 COLUMNS : 
 
 S. Paul's church, 292 
 
 Sam House and Fox, 305 
 
 Columns, principal dimen- 
 
 Phosphorus first made, 295 
 
 CUSTOM-HOUSE : 
 
 sions of, 285 
 
 Piazza, Inigo Jones's, 293 
 
 Construction of, 305 
 
 Nelson ; bas reliefs, con- 
 
 Residents of note, 293 
 
 Daily report, 306 
 
 struction, scaffolding, and 
 
 Southampton-street, 295 
 
 Exports and Imports, 306 
 
 statue, 283, 284 
 
 Tavistock-row and Miss 
 
 Fifth Custom-house, 306 
 
 Trafalgar-square, 285 
 
 Reay, 295 
 
 Great cost of, 305 
 
 York Column, Carlton-gar- 
 
 CRANE-COURT : 
 
 Interior described, 305 
 
 dens, 285 
 
 Circulating Libraries, 297 
 
 Queen's Warehouse, 306 
 
 COMMON COUNCIL : 
 
 Leach, the printer of Wilkes' 
 
 
 Churchill's satire, 287 
 
 North Briton, 296 
 
 TVAGUERREOTYPE 
 
 Contume, 288 
 
 Nursery for Newspapers, 297 
 
 jJ First experiments in Eng- 
 
 Court at Guildhall, 287 
 
 Royal Society and Scottish 
 
 land, 306 
 
 Numbers of, 286 
 
 Hospital, 296 
 
 London Atmosphere, 306 
 
 3 I
 
 850 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 DEAF AND DUMB ASYLUM: 
 
 ELY- PLACE continued. 
 
 EXCHANGES continued. 
 
 Employment, 307 
 
 Ely, Bishop's House, Dover- 
 
 gister, 329 ; Lloyd's 
 
 First established, 307 
 
 street, 322 
 
 Subscription Rooms, 
 
 DIORAMA AND COSMORAMA : 
 
 Gardens and Vine-yard, 322 
 
 328 ; Medal, commemo- 
 
 Baptist Chapel, 308 
 
 Hatton Garden, 322 
 
 rative, 329 ; North and 
 
 Cosmorama described, 308 
 
 John of Gaunt died, 321 
 
 South fronts, 327; No- 
 
 Diorama described, 307 
 
 Masque, Inns of Court, 322 
 
 table Persons,32S ; Por- 
 
 Dioramas, various, 308 
 
 Religious Mystery, 322 
 
 tico, Great West, 326 ; 
 
 DOCKS : 
 
 Serjeants' Feasts, 321 
 
 Political Hoaxes, 332 ; 
 
 Commercial, 309 
 
 Sir Christopher Hatton, 321 
 
 Queen Victoria opens 
 
 East India, 309 
 
 Strawberries grown, 321 
 
 the third Exchange, 
 
 Grand Surrey, S10 
 
 EXCHANGES : 
 
 326 ; Roman Remains 
 
 S. Katharine's, 310 
 
 Coal Exchange : Coal Supply 
 
 on the site, 326 ; Site, 
 
 London, 310, 311 : Queen's 
 
 of London, 329 ; Interior 
 
 331 ; Statue of Queen 
 
 Tobacco Warehouse and 
 
 described, 330 ; Rebuilt, 
 
 Victoria, 329 ; Statues, 
 
 Pipe, 311 
 
 329 ; Polychrome devices, 
 
 Royal, 325 ; System, 
 
 Millvvall, 311 
 
 330 ; Roman remains, 330 
 
 332 ; Times' Testimo- 
 
 Victoria, 311 
 
 Corn Exchanges, Mark-lane, 
 
 nial, 328 ; Vocabulary, 
 
 West India, 312 
 
 330 
 
 332 
 
 DOCTORS' COMMONS : 
 
 King's Exchange, 330 
 
 Stock Exchange, 331 
 
 Admiralty Court, 313 
 
 Old 'Change, 330 
 
 EXCHANGE-ALLEY : 
 
 Court of Arches, 312 
 
 New Exchange, Strand, 331 ; 
 
 Alley in 1700, 333 
 
 Divorce Court, 313 
 
 Don Pantaleon Sa, 331 ; 
 
 Bubble Cards, 333 
 
 Origin of the Commons, 312 
 
 Monk, Duke of Albem arle, 
 
 South-Sea Bubble, 333 
 
 Prerogative Court : Wills 
 
 and Anne Clarges, 331 ; 
 
 EXCISE OFFICE : 
 
 and Marriages, 313 
 
 White Milliner, 331 
 
 Site of Gresham College, 333 
 
 Registries of the Court of 
 
 EXCHANGE, ROYAL : 
 
 Removal of, 333 
 
 Probate: CelebratedWills, 
 
 First Exchange, 322, 323: 
 
 System of Excise, 334 
 
 Perusal and Copy of Wills, 
 
 Burse in Cornhill, 323 ; 
 
 EXETER HALL : 
 
 314, 315 
 
 Gresham family, 322, 
 
 May Meetings, 334 
 
 DOMESDAY-BOOK : 
 
 323 ; Gresham's Shop in 
 
 Orchestra, 334 
 
 Described, 314 
 
 Lombard-street, 322 ; 
 
 SacredHarmonicSociety,334 
 
 S. Giles's Domesday, 315 
 
 Great Fire destroys 
 
 EXETER HOUSE and EXETER 
 
 London, not in, 315 
 
 the first Exchange,324 ; 
 
 'CHANGE : 
 
 Where kept, 315 
 
 Hollar's print, 1644, 
 
 Burleigh House, 335 
 
 DRUEY-LANE : 
 
 324 ; Pawn, origin of, 
 
 Chapel, 335 
 
 Coal-yard and Nell Gwynne, 
 
 323 ; Pictures and Sta- 
 
 The 'Change, 335 
 
 316 
 
 tues, 323 ; Queen Eliza- 
 
 " King of Exeter 'Change," 
 
 Cock and Pye, 315 
 
 beth opened the first 
 
 335 
 
 Cockpit, 316 
 
 Exchange, 323. 
 
 Menagerie, Pidcock, Polito, 
 
 Craven House and Drury 
 
 Second Exchange: 
 
 and Cross, 335 
 
 House, 315 
 
 Burning of the Exchange, 
 
 New Exeter 'Change, 335 
 
 Sixteenth Century, 315 
 
 1838, 325 ; Charles II. 
 
 
 Theatres, 316 
 
 founds and opens the 
 
 BETTER-LANE : 
 
 
 second Exchange, 324 ; 
 
 -*- Brothers Barebones, 335 
 
 EARTHQUAKES IN 
 
 Chimes, 325 ; Gibber's 
 
 Brownrigg, Mrs., 336 
 
 -U LONDON: 1692, 1750, 
 
 sculpture, 3 2 4, 325 ; In- 
 
 Dry den and Hobbes, 336 
 
 17D6, 17Ci, 1842 (hoax), 
 
 scription and Decora- 
 
 Malcolm, Sarah, the mur- 
 
 18C3, 316,317 
 
 tions, 326; Insurance 
 
 * deress, 336 
 
 EASTCIIEAP : 
 
 calculations, 825 ; Inte- 
 
 Record Office, New, 336 
 
 Antiquity of, 317 
 
 rior Merchant's Area, 
 
 White Horse Inn, 336 
 
 Boar's Head Tavern, 317, 
 
 327;Jerman'sExchan'ge, 
 
 FIELD-LANE : 
 
 318 
 
 324 ; LordMayor'sCourt 
 
 Described by Dickens, 336 
 
 Saxon Market, 317 
 
 Office, 325 ; Salvage 
 
 Old Chick-lane and Thieves' 
 
 EAST INDIA HOUSE: 
 
 Sale, 325 ; Statue of 
 
 lodging-house, 337 
 
 East India Company, 819 
 
 Gresham, 326 
 
 FIELD OF FORTY FOOT- 
 
 First House, 318 
 
 Third Exchange : 
 
 STEPS : 
 
 Museum, 319 
 
 Ambulatories, 327 ; Ane- 
 
 Brothers' Duel, 837 
 
 Pictures and Statues, 318 
 
 mometer and Rain- 
 
 S. John Baptist's Day, 337 
 
 Rebuilt, 318 
 
 gauge, 328 ; Architec- 
 
 Legendary Story of the 
 
 Roman Remains, 319 
 
 tural objects, fine, 329 ; 
 
 Forty Footsteps, 337 
 
 Sale of Materials, 319 
 
 Baily, Francis, F.R.S., 
 
 Porter, Misses, romance, 337 
 
 Tesselated Pavement, 319 
 
 333 ; Chart-room, 328 ; 
 
 Southey's account of, 337 
 
 EGYPTIAN HALL: 
 
 Clock and Chimes, 326 ; 
 
 FlNSBUHY : 
 
 Bullock's Museum, 320 
 
 Cost of Rebuilding, by 
 
 Antiquity of, 337 
 
 Exhibitions, from 1816 to 
 
 W.Tite, F.R.S, 329; 
 
 Bunhill Fields, 338 
 
 present time, 320, 321 
 
 East Front, 326; En- 
 
 Finsbury, by Aggas, 338 
 
 ELY-PLACE : 
 
 larged, 331, 333 ; Epi- 
 
 Lord Mayor, title of, 338 
 
 Bishops of Ely, 321 
 
 sodes, 332 ; Lloyd's Re- 
 
 Prebend of Finsbury, 338
 
 INDEX. 
 
 851 
 
 FIRE BRIGADE : 
 
 FLEET-STREET continued. 
 
 FRIENDS' OR QUAKERS' MEET- 
 
 Curfew rung out, 341 
 
 Devil Tavern, 352 
 
 ING-HOUSES, 226 
 
 Fire Engines, 343 
 
 DucHy of Corn wall office, 351 
 
 Starchamber prison, 344 
 
 Fire Police, 1668,Insurance, 
 
 Fenning, Eliza, case of, 352 
 
 Wardenship, or Serjeancy, 
 
 Office, 342 
 
 Gosling's banking - house 
 
 344 
 
 Fire in Stephen's reign, 
 
 351 
 
 FROSTS AND FROST FAIRS 
 
 341 
 
 Hardham's 37-Snuff, 349 
 
 ON THE THAMES : 
 
 Fire Watch or Guard, 342 
 
 Hare-court, 350 
 
 Blanket Fairs, 361 363 
 
 Metropolitan Fire Brigade, 
 
 Hoare's banking-house, 351 
 
 Charles II. 's reign, 361 
 
 343 
 
 Hone, W., publisher, 352 
 
 Frostiana, 363 
 
 Squirts or Syringes, 342 
 
 Johnson, Dr., in Bolt-court 
 
 Great Frosts, 361 : Years, 
 
 Steam Fire-Engines, 343 
 
 350 
 
 1281, 1410, 1434, 1506, 
 
 Telegraphiccommunication, 
 
 Mitre Tavern, 352 
 
 1515, 1564, 160S, 1609, 
 
 S43 
 
 Posts, 349 
 
 1683, 1688, 1709, 1715, 
 
 Wardmote's orders, 341 
 
 Printing-offices, old, 351 
 
 1739, 1768, 1789, 1811, 
 
 FIRE OF LONDON : 
 
 Richardson's Printing-office, 
 
 1813-14. 
 
 Evelyn and Pepys describe, 
 
 349 
 
 FULWOOD'S RENTS : 
 
 338, 339 
 
 Salisbury-court and Ser- 
 
 Former state, 363 
 
 Hollar's View, before and 
 
 jeant's Inn, 350 ; Duke's 
 
 Gray's-Inn Walks, 364 
 
 after, 340 
 
 Theatre, 349 
 
 Taverns, 363, 364 
 
 Limits, 339 
 
 Salmon's Waxwork, 350 
 
 Ward,Ned,Punch-house,364 
 
 Loss estimated, 339 
 
 Shire-lane, 352 
 
 
 Origin of, 339 
 
 Shop Signs, noted, 348 
 
 GARDENS : 
 
 Pudding-lane, 338 
 
 Steam-printing.cradle of,351 
 
 U Apollo, 368 
 
 FIHES, MEMORABLE, 340, 341 
 
 Waithman, Alderman, 348, 
 
 Apothecaries' Company, 369 
 
 FLEET PRISON : 
 
 349 
 
 Baldwin's, 365 
 
 Bambridge and Huggins, 
 
 Wine-office-court, 350 
 
 Bays water, 367 
 
 344 
 
 FOG OF LONDON : 
 
 Birds of London, 369 
 
 Dance's Humours of the 
 
 Lines by Luttrel, 353 
 
 Botanic Gardens, 369 
 
 Fleet, 345 
 
 November Fog, 353 
 
 Botanic Society's, 3C9 
 
 Fleet Marriages, 346 
 
 FORTIFICATIONS : 
 
 Brompton-park, 361 
 
 Hooper, Bishop, 344 
 
 Brill, Oliver's Mount, Par- 
 
 Buckingham Palace, 367 
 
 Howel, Lilburne, and 
 
 liamentary, Tyburn, and 
 
 Campden House, 368 
 
 Prynne, 344 
 
 Wardour-street, 354 
 
 Churchyards planted, 369 
 
 Notable Persons imprisoned 
 
 FOUNDLING HOSPITAL : 
 
 City Hall, 366 
 
 here, 346 
 
 Chapel and Choir, 353 
 
 Clerkenwell, 367 
 
 Riots of 1780, 346 
 
 Charter to Coram, 354 
 
 Finsbury-circus, 366 
 
 Rules and Day Rules, 346 
 
 Children, 356 
 
 Fitzstephen's time, 364 
 
 Receiving Box, 345 
 
 Guilford-street, 354 
 
 Flower-shows, 369 
 
 FLEET RIVER AND FLEET 
 
 Hatton-garden, 354 
 
 Gerarde's Herbal, 365 
 
 DITCH : 
 
 Hogarth's Pictures, 355 
 
 Gray's-Inn, 366 
 
 Bridges across, 347 
 
 Pictures, Exhbition of, 355 
 
 Holborn, 365 
 
 Course of the Fleet, 347 
 
 Statue of Coram, 356 
 
 Horticultural Society's, 370- 
 
 Coal Vaults, 348 
 
 Tenterden, Lord, 355 
 
 Inns of Court, 365 
 
 Ditch deepened, 347 
 
 FOUNTAINS : 
 
 Kensington Palace, 367 
 
 Dunciad and City Shmcer, 
 
 Bagnigge Wells, 356 
 
 Kew, Royal, 370 
 
 347 
 
 Bank of England, 30 
 
 Lambeth, 368 
 
 Fleet Market, 348 
 
 Billingsgate, 359 
 
 Leicester House, 365 
 
 Sewer, Great, 348 
 
 Brixtou, 358 
 
 Lincoln, Earl of, 365 
 
 Ships in Fleet-river, 347 
 
 Free Drinking, 356 
 
 Market-gardening, 368 
 
 FLEET-STREET : 
 
 Guildhall, 359 
 
 Milton's, 367 
 
 Alsatia, 349 
 
 Kensington, 356 
 
 Montague House, 365 
 
 Banking-houses, old, 351 
 
 Lincoln's-lnn, 356 
 
 Napoleon's Willow, 370 
 
 Bolt-court, 350 
 
 Myddelton, 358 
 
 Open places, 364 
 
 Bolt-in-Tun, 350 
 
 Parks, 358 
 
 Pindar, Sir Paul, 366 
 
 Bride, Shoe, and Water 
 
 8. James's-square, 357 
 
 Squares, 368 
 
 lanes, 349 
 
 Soho, 356 
 
 Temple, Inner and Middle, 
 
 Burning of the Pope, 352 
 
 Somerset House, 356 
 
 366 
 
 Chatterton and Lovelace, 
 
 Temple, 356 
 
 Tradescant's, 368 
 
 349 
 
 Trafalgar-square, 357 
 
 Vauxhall, 368 
 
 Chaucer and Cowley, 3-52 
 
 FREEMASONS' LODGES : 
 
 GAS-LIGHTING : 
 
 Child's banking-house, 351 
 
 Buildings by Freemasons, 
 
 Chinese, 371 
 
 Cobbett in Bolt-court, 353 
 
 360 
 
 Coal Gas, 372 
 
 Cock Tavern, 352 
 
 Freemasons' Hall, 359 
 
 Early Experiments, 371 
 
 Coffee-houses and Taverns, 
 
 Masonic Hall, New, 360 
 
 Gas consumption, 373 
 
 352 
 
 Lodges, 360 
 
 Johnson, Dr., on, 371 
 
 Cogers' Hall, 349 
 
 Old Lodges, 359 
 
 Lights, various, 372 
 
 Crane-court, 296 
 
 Secrecy of, 360 
 
 London Gas Company, 372 
 
 Dentists, old, 351 
 
 Wren, Sir Christopher, 359 
 
 Murdoch and Winsor, 371 
 
 3 12
 
 INDEX. 
 
 GAS-LIGHTING continued. 
 
 GREY FRIARS continued. 
 
 HALLS continued. 
 
 Pall Mall, 3 72 
 
 Sanctuary, 382 
 
 Liveries, 394 
 
 St. James's Park, 372 
 
 Whittington's Library, 382 
 
 Loving Cup, 395 
 
 Theatres, 372 
 
 GRUB-STREET : 
 
 Louvre, or lantern, 393 
 
 Westminster, 371 
 
 City Chapel, 384 
 
 Offices, 383 
 
 GATE-HOUSE, WESTMINSTER, 
 
 Dunciad and Grub-st., 364 
 
 Paintings, Tapestry, and 
 
 373: 
 
 Foxe, the martyrologist, 383 
 
 Painted Window.-, 393 
 
 Prisoners, distinguished, 373 
 
 Grub-street authors, 384 
 
 Plate, Corporation, 394 
 
 GEOLOGY OF LONDON : 
 
 Grub-street Journal and 
 
 Salt, above and below, 394 
 
 Eocene, 375 
 
 Society, 384 
 
 Triumphs, or Pageants, 395 
 
 Fossils, 375 
 
 Hoole, Samuel, and Dr. 
 
 HALLS OF THE COMPANIES, 
 
 London Basin, 375 
 
 Johnson, 385 
 
 TWELVE GREAT: 
 
 London Clay, 374 
 
 Milton-street, 383 
 
 Clothworkers' : Banqueting- 
 
 Lyell,Mantell,Mylne,Owen, 
 
 Monk, General, 384 
 
 room described r 409 ; Gifts 
 
 Prestwich, 373,374 
 
 Pope and Grub-street, 384 
 
 distributed, 410 ; James I. 
 
 Thanet sands, 375 
 
 Soap works, Old City, 384 
 
 aclothworker,409 ; Pepys's 
 
 S. GEORGE'S FIELDS : 
 
 Speed, John, 383 
 
 Cup, 409; Rebuilt 1860, 
 
 Brayley's account, 376 
 
 Text-writers, 383 
 
 409 ; Staircase Hall, 409 
 
 Maitland's account, 376 
 
 Welby, the Hermit, 284 
 
 Drapers': Cromwell's House, 
 
 Roman roads, 375 
 
 GUILDHALL : 
 
 398 ; Feasts, 399; Garden, 
 
 Kiots, Gordon & Wilkes, 377 
 
 Aldermen's Court, 391 
 
 39S, 399; Great Fire, 398; 
 
 S. GILES'S : 
 
 Chamberlain's Office, 391 
 
 Livery, 399; Lord Mayor's 
 
 Ballad-singing, 378 
 
 Chapel, ancient, 390 
 
 day, 400; Portraits, 398, 
 
 Dyott- street, 378 
 
 Charles II. 's visits, 389 
 
 399 ; Swithin's-lane Hall, 
 
 Gallows, 377 
 
 Council Chamber, 391 
 
 399 
 
 Health of, 379 
 
 Courts of Common Pleas and 
 
 Fishmongers': Charter,402; 
 
 Hogarth's Pictures, 377 
 
 King's Bench, 392 
 
 Chandelier, Silver, 401 ; 
 
 Horse-shoes, luck of, 378 
 
 Court of Exchequer, 391 
 
 Curiosities, 401; Dining- 
 
 Hospital for Lepers, 376 
 
 Crypt, 300 
 
 hall, 400 ; Dogget, the 
 
 Inns, large old, 376 ' 
 
 First, Second, and Third, 386 
 
 actor, Coat and Badge, 
 
 Irish in, 378 
 
 Gas-lighting, 389 
 
 400; Fishmongers incor- 
 
 Lodging-houses, 379 
 
 Gog and Magog, 388 
 
 porated, 401 ; Great Fire, 
 
 Maps of, 379 
 
 Great Fire, 387 
 
 401; Lord Mayors, 400; 
 
 Monmouth-street, 378 
 
 Hustings' Court, 390 
 
 S. Peter's Hospital, 401 ; 
 
 Pound, 376 
 
 Interior, 387 
 
 Pictures, 401 ; Presiden- 
 
 Rookery, 378, 379 
 
 Library, 393 
 
 tial Chair, 401 ; Stock- 
 
 Round-house, 377 
 
 Lord Mayor's Dinner, 389 
 
 fishmongers, 401 ; Third 
 
 Seven Dials, 377, 379 
 
 Kitchen built, 386 
 
 Hall, 400 ; Trust Estates 
 
 Smith, Albert, describes, 378 
 
 Monuments, 388, 389 
 
 and Charities, 401 ; Wai- 
 
 Tyburn cart, 379 
 
 Pepys at dinner, 390 
 
 worth, Sir W.,400 ; Wales, 
 
 Village, 376 
 
 Porch and Statues, 387 
 
 Prince of, admitted, 402 ; 
 
 GlLTSPUH-STREET : 
 
 Portraits and other Pictures, 
 
 Wat Tyler slain, 400; 
 
 Cock-lane Ghost, 380 
 
 392 
 
 Wine Shades, Old, 401 
 
 Great Fire & Pie-corner, 380 
 
 Roof, New, 387 
 
 Goldsmiths' : Architecture, 
 
 GOG AND MAGOG : 
 
 Sovereigns feasted, 389 
 
 402 ; Assay, the, 401 4 ; 
 
 Corinaeus and Gog-magog, 
 
 Trials, memorable, 387 
 
 Banqueting-hall, 402 ; 
 
 380, 381 
 
 Whittington and Henry V., 
 
 Bowes, Sir Martin, 403 ; 
 
 Costumes, 381 
 
 386 
 
 Busts and Portraits, 402 ; 
 
 Gigantick History, 381 
 
 Windows, painted, 388 
 
 Hall-mark, 404 ; Interior 
 
 Hone's account, 381 
 
 
 described, 402 ; Lord 
 
 Midsummer Pageants, 380 
 
 HACKNEY-COACHES : 
 
 Mayors, 403 ; Myddelton, 
 
 Restoration, 380 
 
 Bailey and Duncombe, 392 
 
 Sir Hugh, 402; Pageants, 
 
 GOODMAN'S FIELDS : 
 
 Cabs, 393 
 
 403; Plate, 403 ; Third 
 
 Abbey Farm, 381 
 
 Davenant's description, 393 
 
 Hall, 402 
 
 Jews, 381 
 
 Origin of Name, 393 
 
 Grocers' : Bank of England, 
 
 Roman Remains, 381 
 
 Sight-seeing, 393 
 
 397; Cutler, Sir John, 
 
 Rosemary-lane, 381 
 
 Stand, the first, 392 
 
 397; Garden, 397; Lord 
 
 GREEK CHURCHES: 
 
 HALLS OF THE Cm COM- 
 
 Mayor's Feasts, 398 ; Pep- 
 
 London Wall, 227 
 
 PANIES : 
 
 perers, 397 ; Spoon cus- 
 
 Russian Embassy, 227 
 
 Barges, 395 
 
 tom, 398; Third Hall, 397 
 
 GREY FRIARS: 
 
 Charters, 393 
 
 Haberdashers' : Charities, 
 
 Convent, 382 
 
 Companies' Arms, 424 
 
 407; Fire in 1864, 406; 
 
 Chapel and Church, 382 
 
 Companies' Charities, 423 
 
 Great Fire, 406 ; Hurrers, 
 
 Christ's Hospital, 382 
 
 Companies'Trusteeships,42 3 
 
 407; Portraits, 406, 407 
 
 Foundresses and means, 382 
 
 Election Feasts and Garr 
 
 Ironmongers' : Almshouses, 
 
 Friars Minors, 381 
 
 lands, 394, 395 
 
 408 ; Charities, 408 ; Fra- 
 
 London Russet, 382 
 
 Funerals, 394 
 
 ternity Feast, 408 ; In- 
 
 Monuments, 382 
 
 Gild-hallas of the Saxons, 
 
 terior Fittings, 408 ; Os- 
 
 Procession, 382 
 
 393 
 
 trich in Pageant, 408;
 
 INDEX. 
 
 S5S 
 
 1 
 
 
 HALLS continued. 
 
 HALLS continued. 
 
 HALLS con tinned. 
 
 Pictures, 408; Statue of 
 
 and Carpenters embroiled, 
 
 le-Grand, Funeral Palls, 
 
 Beckford, 408 
 
 412 ; Curious Customs, 
 
 Sir Richard Blackmore, 
 
 Mercers' : Aeon, Sir Thomas, 
 
 412 
 
 Honnor's Home, 419 
 
 Hospital, 396 ; Becket, 
 
 Butchers', 412 
 
 Scriveners' : Marching 
 
 Gilbert, House of, 396 ; 
 
 Carpenters' : Court-rooms, 
 
 Watch, the ; Milton and 
 
 Carvings, 396; Caxton, 
 
 413; Crowns and Gar- 
 
 Scriveners' Company ; 
 
 the printer, 396 ; Chapel, 
 
 land?, 413 ; Frescoes dis- 
 
 Clayton, Sir Robert; Jack 
 
 396 ; Election Cup, 396 ; 
 
 covered in the Great Hall, 
 
 Ellis, the last money scri- 
 
 Golden Lectureship, 396; 
 
 413; Pictures, 413; Plate 
 
 vener, 420 
 
 Hicks and Hicks's Hall, 
 
 and curiosities, 414 
 
 Stationers' : Almanacks, the 
 
 396 ; Pictures, 396 
 
 Clockmakers' Company, 424 
 
 420; Almanack-day, 421; 
 
 Merchant Tailors' : Ban- 
 
 Coachmakers' Hall : Indus- 
 
 Burgaveny House, 420; 
 
 queting-room screen and 
 
 trial Exhibitions; Politi- 
 
 Carvings, by Gibbons, 
 
 music gallery, 405 ; Bull, 
 
 cal Meetings, 414 
 
 421 ; Charities, 421 ; Copy- 
 
 Dr. John, 405 ; Freemen, 
 
 Cooks' Company, 423 
 
 right Act, 420 ; Lord 
 
 Distinguished, 405, 406; 
 
 Coopers' Hall: State Lot- 
 
 Mayor's Show, 421 ; 
 
 Hawkwood, Sir John,405 ; 
 
 teries drawn, 414 
 
 Moore's Almanack, 421 ; 
 
 James I., visit of, 405 ; 
 
 Cordwainers' : Charities, 
 
 Parkhurst's Bibles, 420 ; 
 
 Henry VII., Master, 406 ; 
 
 Portraits, and Plate, 414 
 
 Portraits, 421 ; Registers 
 
 Ogilby's Virgil, 406 ; 
 
 Curriers' : Carvings and 
 
 of the Company, 420; 
 
 Pictures, 405 ; Political 
 
 Paintings; Guild, 1363; 
 
 School-house, 421 ; Sta- 
 
 Feasts, 405 ; Speed and 
 
 convivial customs, 414 
 
 tioners' Barge, 421 ; But- 
 
 Stow, 406 
 
 Cutlers': Belle Sauvage-inn 
 
 ton's Funeral, 422 
 
 Sailers' : Busts and Pic- 
 
 bequest, 414 ; Company's 
 
 Stocking-weavers' : Lee and 
 
 tures, 407 ; Four Halls, 
 
 crest, 415 
 
 the Stocking-loom Pic- 
 
 407; Game Pie (1394), 
 
 Dyers' : Swans on the 
 
 ture, 422 
 
 407 ; Meeting-house, 407 ; 
 
 Thames, and Swan-up- 
 
 Tallow-chandlers', 422 
 
 Plate and Loving Cups, 
 
 pings, 415 
 
 Watermen's : Fares regu- 
 
 407; Printed Pageant, 
 
 Embroiderers', 415 
 
 lated, 4J2; Petition in 
 
 407 
 
 Founders' : Glass Cup, temp. 
 
 rhyme, 422 ; Taylor, the 
 
 Skinners': ClerkenwellPlays, 
 
 Henry VIII., 415 
 
 "Water-poet, 422 
 
 404 -, Election of Officers, 
 
 Fruiterers' Company, 423 
 
 Wax-chandlers' : Charter, 
 
 404 ; Judd, Sir Andrew, 
 
 Girdlers' Hall : Election 
 
 illuminated, 423 
 
 404 ; King's and Queens 
 
 Ceremonies with caps and 
 
 Weavers': First Charter of 
 
 members, 404 ; Lord 
 
 crowns, 415 
 
 the City Guilds, 423 
 
 Mayors, 404 ; Precedence 
 
 Innholders' Hall, 415 
 
 HALLS, MISCELLANEOUS : 
 
 question, 405 ; Skinners' 
 
 Joiners' : Carvings, Pic- 
 
 Agricultural : Exhibitions, 
 
 Guild, 404; Tunbridge 
 
 tures, Cedar Parlour, 415 
 
 Miscellaneous,425; Smith- 
 
 Schools, 404 
 
 Leathersellers" : Enriched 
 
 field Club Cattle Show, 
 
 Vintners' : Picard, Mayor, 
 
 ceiling, screen, and sculp- 
 
 424 
 
 entertained four Kings, 
 
 tured pump, 416 
 
 Bake well, 425 
 
 409 ; Pictures, 408 ; Swans 
 
 Masons', 416 
 
 Commercial, 425 
 
 on the Thames, 409; Three 
 
 Needlemakers' Company, 
 
 Flaxman Hall and Sculp- 
 
 Cranes, 409 ; Vintry, the, 
 
 424 
 
 tures, 425 
 
 409 
 
 Painter Stainers' Hall : Cha- 
 
 Floral, Covent Garden, 424 
 
 HALLS OF THE MINOR CITY 
 
 rities, 417; Fraternity of 
 
 Hall of Commerce : Bas- 
 
 COMPANIES : 
 
 Artists ; Camden Cup ; 
 
 relief, by Watson, 426 
 
 Apothecaries' : Portraits, 
 
 Catton, Master, 416 ; Pic- 
 
 Hicks's Hall: Sir Baptist 
 
 410 ; Fulminating Explo- 
 
 tures, 417 
 
 Hicks, 426 ; Hiulibras, 
 
 sion, 410 
 
 Parish Clerks' : Miracle 
 
 426 ; Trials, 426 
 
 Armourers' and Braziers' : 
 
 Plays; Diary of Henry 
 
 Hudson's Bay Company's, 
 
 Armour, Northcote's Pic- 
 
 Machin; Bills of Mor- 
 
 426 
 
 ture, and Plate, 410 
 
 tality, Portraits, and Pri- 
 
 S. James's : characteristic 
 
 Bakers': Pictures, 410 
 
 vileges, 417 
 
 decoration, 427 ; public 
 
 Barber-Surgeons' : Barbers 
 
 Pewterers': Master's Por- 
 
 dinners, 427 
 
 and Surgeons, 411 ; Car- 
 
 trait, Pewter Pots ; Foote 
 
 S. Martin's, 427 
 
 toons, 411 ; Carved ca- 
 
 and Macklin, 418 
 
 Town Halls and Vestry 
 
 nopy, 410 ; Cup, Loving, 
 
 Pinmakers' : Pinners' Com- 
 
 Halls, 427 
 
 412; Holbein's Charter- 
 
 pany; Pinners' Hall Meet- 
 
 Union Hall, Southwark, 
 
 picture, 411 ; Plate, 411 ; 
 
 ing-house, 418 
 
 427 
 
 Portraits, 411 ; Theatre 
 
 Plasterers' : Curious Silver 
 
 Wesleyan Centenary Hall: 
 
 by Inigo Jones, 410 
 
 Bell and Cup, and Privi- 
 
 Wesley's Picture ; Thank- 
 
 Blacksmiths', 412 
 
 leges, 418 
 
 offerings, 427 
 
 Brewers' : Almshouses,' 
 
 Plumbers', 418 
 
 Westminster Guildhall, 427 
 
 Owen's ; Fine for selling 
 
 Porters' : Tackle and Ticket 
 
 HAYMARKET : 
 
 Old Ale ; Pewter pots, 
 
 Porters, 418 
 
 Baxter, Richard, 428 
 
 41-2 
 
 Saddlers': Oldest civicGuild; 
 
 Cattle-market, 1664, 428 
 
 Bricklayers' : Bricklayers 
 
 new front; Saint Martin's- 
 
 Coventry Act, 428
 
 354 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 HAYMARKET continued. 
 
 HOSPITALS continued. 
 
 HOUSES OF OLD LONDON 
 
 Hay sold here, temp. Eliza- 
 
 Lock, 438 
 
 continued. 
 
 beth, 428 
 
 London, 439 
 
 Long-lane, 484 
 
 Haymarket Theatre, 428 
 
 S. Luke's, 439 
 
 Marylebone, 448 
 
 Her Majesty's Theatre, 428 
 
 Marylebone and Padding- 
 
 Milborn's, 448 
 
 Panton, Col., 428 
 
 ton, 439 
 
 Newcastle, 448 
 
 Piccadilly Hall, 429 
 
 Middlesex, 439 
 
 Old City Workhouse, 448 
 
 Shaver's Hall, 428, 429 
 
 Ophthalmic, 440 
 
 Post-office, Lombard-st., 448 
 
 Tennis-court, 428 
 
 Orthopaedic, 440 
 
 Queen-st., L.-I.-Fieldf, 448 
 
 HOLBOHN : 
 
 Presidents of the City Hos- 
 
 Schomberg, 449 
 
 Chatterton, lodging of, 430 
 
 pitals, choice of, 436 
 
 Shaftesbury, 449 
 
 Ely-place, 430 
 
 Queen Charlotte's, 440 
 
 Southwark, 460 
 
 Fearon, Messrs., 429 
 
 Royal Free, 440 
 
 Spanish Ambassadors', 430 
 
 First paved, 429 
 
 Royal Maternity, 440 
 
 Staple Inn, 450 
 
 Gerarde's Garden, 430 
 
 S. Thomas's, Soutluvark,435 
 
 Star Chamber, 450 
 
 Holborn Charity, 431 
 
 Small-pox and Vaccination, 
 
 S. Mary Axe, 450 
 
 Holborn Valley, raising, 
 
 440 
 
 Strand, 450 
 
 429 
 
 University College, 440 
 
 Tradescant's, 450 
 
 Holborn Theatre, 431 
 
 Westminster, 440 
 
 Warwick, 451 
 
 Inns of Court, 431 
 
 HOTELS : 
 
 Weather-boarded, 451 
 
 Kidder, pastry-cook, 431 
 
 Agricultural, 442 
 
 Winchester-street, 451 
 
 Middle-row, 430 
 
 Charing Cross, 442 
 
 
 Old-bourne bridge, 429 
 
 City Terminus, 443 
 
 INNS OF COURT AND 
 
 Skinner-street, 429 
 
 Euston, 441 
 
 CHANCERY: 
 
 Southampton House, 430 
 
 Great Northern, 441 
 
 Admission to the Inns, 471 
 
 " Up the Heavy Hill," 429 
 
 Great Western, 441 
 
 Arms, 471 
 
 Warwick House, 431 
 
 Grosvenor, 442 
 
 Apprentices and Serjeants, 
 
 Whitehead, Paul, 431 
 
 Inns of Court, 442 
 
 460 
 
 HOLLAND HOUSE, KEN- 
 
 Langham, 442 
 
 Ascension-day custom, 461 
 
 SINGTON : 
 
 London Bridge, 442 
 
 Calls to the Bar, 471 
 
 Addison, death of, 431 
 
 Palace, 441 
 
 Costume of Inns of Court,460 
 
 Busts and Pictures, 432 
 
 Westminster Palace, 442 
 
 Expenses, 471 
 
 Celebrities of, 433 
 
 HOUNDSDITCH : 
 
 Hall dinner, 471 
 
 Cope, Sir Walter, 431 
 
 Dogsditch, 443 
 
 Inns of Court and Trade 
 
 Duel, fatal, 433 
 
 Foundry, 443 
 
 Guilds, 461 
 
 Fairfax, Sir T., 431 
 
 Jews' Quarter, 444 
 
 Star Chamber Court, 460 
 
 Gardens, 432 
 
 Rag- Fair, 444 
 
 Students, temp. lien. VI., 
 
 Gilt-room, 432 
 
 Tench, the joiner, 443 
 
 461 
 
 Holland, Baron, 432 
 
 HOUSES OF OLD LONDON : 
 
 Barnard's Inn, 471 
 
 Holland, first Earl of, 431 
 
 Aldersgate-street, 444 
 
 Clement's Inn : 
 
 Library, 432 
 
 Aldgate, 444 
 
 Falstaff and Shallow, 472 
 
 Park, 433 
 
 Ashburnham, 444 
 
 S. Clement's Well, 472 
 
 Thorpe, architect, 432 
 
 Bagnio, 444 
 
 Sun-dial, 472 
 
 Warwick, Earl of, 432 
 
 Bangor, 444 
 
 Clifford's Inn, 472 
 
 HOBSEFERRY: 
 
 Baumes, 445 
 
 Members, eminent, 472 
 
 Flight of James II. and his 
 
 Brick, stone, and wood, 445 
 
 Dinner custom, curious, 
 
 Queen, 433 
 
 Brook's Menagerie, 445 
 
 472 
 
 Westminster and Lambeth, 
 
 Bulk shops, 445 
 
 Gray's Inn : 
 
 Ferry between, 433 
 
 Burnet's, Bishop, 445 
 
 Armorial windows, 469 
 
 HORSE GUARDS : 
 
 Campden House, 445 
 
 Bacon, Francis, 470 
 
 Clock, 434 
 
 Canonbury, 446 
 
 Bacon, Sir Nicholas, 470 
 
 Mounted Guards, 434 
 
 Carlisle, 446 
 
 Bolting, 469 
 
 Origin of Horse Guards, 434 
 
 Caxton's, 446 
 
 Chapel, 469 
 
 Parade ground, 434 
 
 Coleherne, 448 
 
 Christmasings, Masques, 
 
 Tilt-yard, Whitehall, 431 
 
 Crosby Hall, 297 
 
 and Revels, 469 
 
 Vardy,Kent,andVanbrugh, 
 
 Drury-lane, 446 
 
 Gardens, 366, 470 
 
 architects, 434 
 
 Dyott's, 446 
 
 Grey of Wilton and Fort- 
 
 HOSPITALS : 
 
 Elizabethan, 447 
 
 poole, 469 
 
 S. Bartholomew's, 36 
 
 Fowler's, 447 
 
 Hall built, 469 
 
 Bethlehem, 56 
 
 Fulwood's Rents, 447 
 
 Libraries, 471 
 
 Charing Cross, 437 
 
 Grub-street, 447 
 
 Members, eminent, 470 
 
 Consumption, 436 
 
 Hale, 448 
 
 Montagu, Basil, 470 
 
 Dispensaries, 441 
 
 Holland, 431 
 
 Osborn and Tonson, book- 
 
 French Protestant, 436 
 
 Hoxton, 447 
 
 sellers, 470 
 
 S. George's, 437 
 
 Kensington, 447 
 
 Lincoln's Inn : 
 
 Guy's: statues and portrait 
 
 Kennington, 447 
 
 Books and MSS., 468 
 
 of, 437 
 
 Lindsey, Chelsea, 448 
 
 Chapel, 213 
 
 King's College, 438 
 
 Lindsey, L.-Inn-Fields, 448 
 
 Christmasings, masques, 
 
 Lesser, 438 
 
 Little Moorflelds, 448 
 
 and revels, 465
 
 INDEX. 
 
 855 
 
 INNS OF COURT AND CHAN- 
 
 INNS OF COURT AND CHAN- 
 
 INNS OF COURT AND CHAN- 
 
 CERY continued. 
 
 CERY continued. 
 
 CERY continued. 
 
 Curfew-bell, 469 
 
 Fountain, 356, 464 
 
 White Hart, Welbeck-st.460 
 
 Erskine, Lord, statue, 467 
 
 Gatehouse, 462 
 
 White Horse, Fetter- lane, 
 
 Fresco, by Watts, 467 
 
 Garden, 464 
 
 236, 460 
 
 Gardens, 365, 466 
 
 Hall, 462 
 
 Yorkshire Stingo, 460 
 
 Gatehouse, 465 
 
 Last Revel, 462 
 
 ISLE OF DOGS : 
 
 Hall, New, 466 
 
 Library, New, 463 
 
 Cubitt Town, 477 
 
 Hall, Old, 465 
 
 Members, eminent, 4G4 
 
 Dockyards, 476 
 
 Hall roof, 467 
 
 Pictures and Busts, 463 
 
 Dogs, tradition of, 476 
 
 Hogarth's Paul before 
 
 Prince of Wales enrolled, 
 
 Iron Suspension Bridges 
 
 Felix, 467 
 
 464 
 
 and Cables, 476 
 
 Kitchen and cellars, 467 
 
 Reader, 463 
 
 Name, 476 
 
 Library, New, 466, 467 
 
 Sun-dials, 464 
 
 Peninsula originally, 475 
 
 Members, eminent, 465 
 
 Turkish Tombstone, 464 
 
 ISLINGTON : 
 
 More, Sir Thomas, family 
 
 INNS OF OLD LONDON: 
 
 Angel Inn, 478 
 
 Of, 465 
 
 Angel, Islington, 451 
 
 Canonbury, 477 
 
 New-square, 456 
 
 Angel, S. Clement's, 451 
 
 Cattle Market, 479 
 
 Oriel window, painted,468 
 
 Ape, London Wall, 451 
 
 Cloudesley, Richard de, 476 
 
 Origin, 464 
 
 Baptist's Head, 451 
 
 Dairies, 477 
 
 Portraits, 468 
 
 Bell, Carter-lane, 452 
 
 Daniel, George, 477 
 
 Screen, armorial, 465 
 
 Bell, Warwick-lane, 452 
 
 Elizabethan houses, 476 
 
 Screen, Hall, andcostumed 
 
 Belle Sauvage, 443 
 
 Highbury, 477 
 
 figures, 467 
 
 Black Bear and White 
 
 Holloway, 479 
 
 Stone-buildings, 466 
 
 Bear, 456 
 
 Inns, 477 
 
 Sun-dials, 465 
 
 Blossoms, 451 
 
 Iseldon, a British name, 476 
 
 Thurloe State Papers, 4G5 
 
 Bolt-in-Tun, 452 
 
 Ivy Gardens, Hoxton, 479 
 
 Visits, royal, 466 
 
 Bull, Bishopsgate, 453 
 
 New River, 477 
 
 Lyon's Inn : 
 
 Clerkenwell, 453 
 
 Peabody Bequest, 479 
 
 Coke, Reader, 473 
 
 Coach and Horses, 453 
 
 Persons, eminent, 477 
 
 Weare and Thurtell, 473 
 
 Cock, Tothill-street, 453 
 
 Population, 479 
 
 New Inn and Sir Thomas 
 
 Cross Keys, 453 
 
 Regent's Canal, 477 
 
 More, 473 
 
 Elephant and Castle, 453 
 
 Sadler's Wells, 478 
 
 Sun-dial, large, 473 
 
 Four Swans, 454 
 
 Smeaton's Observatory, 47 
 
 Serjeants' Inn : 
 
 George aud Blue Boar, 454 
 
 Spa Fields, 478 
 
 Armorial windows, 474 
 
 George, Snow-hill, 454 
 
 Taverns, old, 478 
 
 Hall, 475 
 
 Gerard's Hall, 454 
 
 
 Portraits, fine, 474 
 
 Giles's, S. 454 
 
 S JAMES'S : 
 
 Serjeantcy, the, 474 
 
 Green Man, 454 
 
 Berry-street, Swift's Lodg- 
 
 History, of, 474 
 
 Holboin Hill, 454 
 
 ings, 481 
 
 Staple Inn : 
 
 King's Arms, 454 
 
 Court of S. James's, 480 
 
 Hall and Portraits, 475 
 
 Old Bell, 454 
 
 S. James's Fields, 480 
 
 Jacobean architecture,475 
 
 Oxford Arms, 454 
 
 S. James's-street : Bagnio, 
 
 Johnson, Dr., and Reed, 
 
 Paul Pindar, 454 
 
 Byron, Lord, 481, 482; 
 
 Isaac, 475 
 
 Piccadilly Inns, 454 
 
 Betty's Fruit-shop, 482; 
 
 Strand, or Chester Inn, 475 
 
 Pied Bull, 455 
 
 Civil Service Club, 481 ; 
 
 Symond's Inn, 475 
 
 Pindar of Wakefield, 455 
 
 Club-houses, 482 ; Claren- 
 
 Thavie's Inn, 475 
 
 Queen's Head, 455 
 
 don House, 481 ; Elms- 
 
 Temple, Inner, 461 
 
 Rose of Normandy, 455 
 
 ley's, 480 ; Gibbon, Pope, 
 
 Gardens, view from, 462 
 
 Rose, Holborn Hill, 456 
 
 and Waller, 480 ; Gillray, 
 
 Hall Dinner, 462 
 
 Saracen's Head, Snow-hill 
 
 caricaturist, 481; Hook, 
 
 Hall and Pictures, 462 
 
 and Friday-street, 456 
 
 Theodore, Cleveland-row, 
 
 Hatton, Sir C. 462 
 
 Spread Eagle, 459 
 
 482; Thatched House, 480; 
 
 Johnson and Goldsmith, 
 
 Swan with Two Necks, 459 
 
 Wirgman, Kantesian, 481; 
 
 461 
 
 /Three Cups, 459 
 
 Wren, SirChristopher,481 
 
 Knights Hospitallers, 461 
 
 White Hart, Bishop?gate,459 
 
 S. James's-place : Eminent 
 
 Lamb, Charles, 461 
 
 White Hart, Covent Garden, 
 
 residents, 482 ; Rogers's 
 
 Masques and plays, 462 
 
 460 
 
 Pictures, Sculptures, &c., 
 
 Pastimes and Revels, 460 
 
 Half-way House, 454 
 
 483, Spencer House, 482 
 
 Pillars at S. Paul's, 460 
 
 Southwark Inns: 
 
 Jermyn-st. : eminent resi- 
 
 Library, 461 
 
 Bear at Bridgefoot, 458 
 
 dents, 481 ; Howe, Mrs.; 
 
 Members, eminent, 462 
 
 Boar's Head, 458 
 
 Museum of Practical 
 
 Parliament chamber, 462 
 
 Catherine Wheel, 458 
 
 Geology, 481 
 
 Wat Tyler's Rebellion, 
 
 Dog and Bear, 458 
 
 JAMES-STREET, WESTMINSTER: 
 
 461 
 
 / George, 457 
 
 Arundel Marbles, 479 
 
 Temple, Middle : 
 
 / King's Head, 458 
 
 Glover and Gifford, 479 
 
 Ashmole and Aubrey, 463 
 
 Tabard, 456 
 
 Pictures at Tart Hall, 480 
 
 Calves' Heads, 463 
 
 White Hart, 457 
 
 Stationery Office, 480 
 
 Feasts, 4G3 
 
 1 
 
 White Lion, 458 
 
 Tart Hall, 479, 480 
 
 1L v, r/l 'i
 
 856 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 JEWS' SYNAGOGUES; 
 
 KENTISH-TOWN : 
 
 LAMBETH PALACE contil. 
 
 Bevis Marks, 2-J8 
 
 Camden-town, 496 
 
 Gardens and Grounds, 505 
 
 Duke's-place, 228 
 
 Cemetery, 82, 495 
 
 Gate-house, 502 
 
 New, Great S. Helen'?, 228 
 
 Chapel, 495 
 
 Guard-chamber, 503 
 
 New, U. Bryanston-st., 229 
 
 Fleet River, 496 
 
 Hall, Great, 504 
 
 "West London, Margaret- 
 
 Gospel Oak, 496 
 
 Howley's repairs, 504 
 
 street, 229 
 
 Somers-town, 496 
 
 Letters, collection of, 505 
 
 JEWS IN LONDON : 
 
 Sycamore planted by Nel- 
 
 Libraries, 503 
 
 Cemeteries, 483 
 
 son, 495 
 
 Lollards' Prison and Tower, 
 
 Clothes Exchange, 483 
 
 KlLBURN: 
 
 502 
 
 Corporation, 484 
 
 Goldsmith's Cottage, 496 ( Pictures, 503 
 
 Jewries, 483 
 
 Priory, 496 
 
 Royal Guests, 505 
 
 Jews' Free School, 484 
 
 Wells, 496 
 
 Stationers' Company and 
 
 Jews'-row, 484 
 
 KNIGHTSBRIDGE : 
 
 Archbishop's Barge, 505 
 
 Jewry destroyed, 483 
 
 Albert-gate, 491 
 
 Wat Tyler's Rebellion, 501 
 
 Massacre, 483 
 
 Belgravia, 492 
 
 LAW COURTS : 
 
 Old Jewry, 483 
 
 Brompton : 
 
 Arches, 312 
 
 Return from exile, 4 83 
 
 Chinese Collection, 491 
 
 Central Criminal Court, 506 
 
 Saturday, Hebrew, 484 
 
 Fox and Bull Tavern, 492 
 
 Chancery, 507 ; Great Seal, 
 
 Saxon period, 483 
 
 Inns and Taverns, 491 
 
 508 ; and Bag, 507 
 
 Synagogues, 484 
 
 Jenny's Whim, 492 
 
 Clerkenwell Sessions' House, 
 
 Wealth of, 485 
 
 Lowndes-square, 492 
 
 237 
 
 S. JOHN'S GATE : 
 
 Tattersall's, New, 491 
 
 Doctors' Commons, 312 
 
 Architecture, 486 
 
 Westbournc Bridge, 490 
 
 Equity, 507 
 
 Cave, Garrick, and Johnson, 
 
 Brompton, Persons of note 
 
 Exchequer, 509 ; 
 
 485 
 
 residing at, 490 
 
 Seal, 509 
 
 Docwra, Grand Prior, 485 
 
 
 Sheriffs' Presentation, 508 
 
 Hollar's prints, 485 
 
 T AMBETH ; 
 
 Sheriffs' Roll, 508 
 
 Jerusalem Tavern, 486 
 
 -" Antiquity, 496 
 
 Tallies, 509 
 
 S. John's Church, 486 
 
 Arundel Marbles, 499 
 
 Insolvent Debtors' Court, 
 
 Knights of S. John, 485 
 
 Asylum, 498 
 
 509 
 
 No Man's Land, 485 
 
 Bushell, Thomas, 499 
 
 Lord Mayor's Court, 510 
 
 Restored, 486 
 
 Canute's Trench, 497 
 
 Marshalsea and Palace 
 
 
 Carlisle House, 498 
 
 Court, 509 
 
 
 Chemical Works and Pot- 
 
 Old Bailey; 
 
 KENNINGTON : 
 
 tery, 500 
 
 Press-yard, 507 
 
 Early history, 486 
 
 Clowes's Printing Works, 
 
 Sheriff's Dinner, 506 
 
 Duchy of Cornwall Estate, 
 
 581 
 
 Trial?, 507 ' 
 
 487 
 
 Coade's Artificial Stone, 501 
 
 Palace of Justice, New, 510 
 
 Kennington Common, 487 
 
 Cuper's Gardens, 499 
 
 Rolls Court, 510 
 
 Licensed Victuallers' School, 
 
 Despard, Colonel, 499 
 
 Sheriffs' Court, 510 
 
 486 
 
 Fair, ancient, 497 
 
 Star Chamber, 450 510 
 
 Manor of Lambeth, 487 
 
 Gardens, Public, 498 
 
 Westminster Hall, old 
 
 Place of execution, 487 
 
 Hock Tide, 497 
 
 Courts in, 505 
 
 Royal Palace, 486, 487 
 
 S. John's Church, 498 
 
 LEADENHALL-STREET : 
 
 Whitefield preaching, 487 
 
 Lambeth Marsh, 499 
 
 Corporation Granary, 511 
 
 KENSINGTON : 
 
 Lampreys and Salmon, 497 
 
 Crypt of S. Michael's, 511 
 
 Campden Hill and Campden 
 
 S. Mary's Church, 185, 497 
 
 Denison family, 511 
 
 House, 486 
 
 Maudsley's Works, 500 
 
 Hall for Arms, 511 
 
 Colby and Kensington 
 
 Moore's Almanack, 499 
 
 Market, 511 
 
 Houses, 447 
 
 New Cut and Pedlar's Acre, 
 
 Motteux, Peter, 511 
 
 Gore House, 488 
 
 501 
 
 S. Mary Axe, 511 
 
 Horticultural Society, 489 
 
 Norfolk House, 499 
 
 LEICESTER-SQUARE : 
 
 International Exhibition 
 
 Pedlar and his Dog, 497 
 
 Aylesbury House, 512 
 
 and Building, 489 
 
 Plate Glass, 500 
 
 Burford's Panorama, 514 
 
 King's Arms Tavern, 488 
 
 Price's Candle Company, 500 
 
 Cranbourne-alley, 514 
 
 Mansions, 489 
 
 Roman Remains and Road, 
 
 Green- street : Woollett the 
 
 S. Mary's Church, 488 
 
 497 
 
 engraver, 514 
 
 Newton, Sir Isaac, 488 
 
 Shot Towers, 500 
 
 Hogarth, William, lived. 513 
 
 Palace Gardens, 488 
 
 Theatres, 498 j Hotels and Foreigners, 515 
 
 South, Sir James, Observa- 
 
 "Vauxhall Gardens, 498 Hunter, John, lived, 514 
 
 tory, 488 
 
 Waterworks, 499 Leicester-fields, 511 
 
 Soyer's Symposium, 489 
 
 LAMBETH PALACE : 1 Lisle-street, 514 
 
 Wilberforce, William, 488 
 
 Books and MSS., 504 
 
 Leicester House, 511 
 
 KENT-STREET : 
 
 Chapel and Crypt, 501, 502 
 
 Leicester-place, 514 
 
 Bridge, ancient, 495 
 
 Cranmer's additions, 501 
 
 Linwood, Miss, her Needle- 
 
 Broorn-meu and Mumpers, 
 
 Curiosities, 505 
 
 work, 512 
 
 495 
 
 Fig-trees, Cardinal Pole's, 
 
 S. Martin-street: Newton's 
 
 Cade and Wyat, 495 
 
 505 
 
 House, 514
 
 INDEX. 
 
 857 
 
 LEICESTER-SQUARE contd. 
 
 LIBRARIES continued. 
 
 LOMBARD-STREET continued' 
 
 Orange-court : Opie and 
 
 Merchant-Tailors' School, 
 
 Birchin-lane, 531 
 
 Holcroft, 514 
 
 520 
 
 Booksellers, 531 
 
 Reynolds, Sir Joshua, lived, 
 
 Microscopical Society, 522 
 
 Burse proposed, 531 
 
 513 
 
 Mudie's Select, 527 
 
 Churches in, 532 
 
 Eiots of 1780, 512 
 
 Museum of Practical Geo- 
 
 George-yard, 531 
 
 Savile House, 512 
 
 logy, 522 
 
 Goldsmiths, 532 
 
 Statue of George I., 513 
 
 New College, 277, 522 
 
 Gresham's shop, 531 
 
 Wyld's Earth Model, 513 
 
 Parliament Houses, 665, 666 
 
 Isabella, queen of Edward 
 
 LEVELS : 
 
 Patent Seal Office, 522 
 
 II., house of, 530 
 
 Various, 515 
 
 S.Paul's Cathedral, 111,523 
 
 Pope, Alexander, birth- 
 
 Highest ground and mid- 
 
 S. Paul's Schools, 523 
 
 place of, 531 
 
 dle ground, 516 
 
 Pharmaceutical Society, 523 
 
 Pope's merchants, 531 
 
 LIBRARIES : 
 
 Royal Academy of Arts, 523 
 
 Post-office, General, 532 
 
 Agricultural Society, 516 
 
 Royal Academy of Music, 
 
 Roman remains, 531 
 
 Antiquaries' Society, 516 
 
 524 
 
 Shore, the goldsmith, 530 
 
 Archaeological Society, 516 
 
 Royal Institute of Archi- 
 
 LONDON INSTITUTION; 
 
 Artillery Ground, 516 
 
 tects, 524 
 
 Established, 532 
 
 Asiatic Society, 516 
 
 Royal Institution, 524 
 
 Laboratory, Lecture-room, 
 
 Astronomical Society, 516* 
 
 Royal Library, S. James's 
 
 and Library, 533 
 
 Bank of England, 516 
 
 Palace, 524 
 
 LONDON WALL CITY : 
 
 Barber-Surgeons' Hall, 516 
 
 Royal Society, 524 
 
 Wall and Bethlem Hospital, 
 
 Beaumont Institution, 516 
 
 Royal Society of Literature, 
 
 534 
 
 Bible Society, 516 
 
 524 
 
 LONG ACRE : 
 
 Botanical Society, 517 
 
 Russell Institution, 524 
 
 Butler and Curll, in Rose- 
 
 British Museum, 584 
 
 Sion College, 279, 525 
 
 street, 535 
 
 Charter-house, 517 
 
 Soane's, Sir John, 525 
 
 Coachmakers, 535 
 
 Chelsea Hospital, 517 
 
 Societies, Literary and 
 
 Elms and Seven Acres, 534 
 
 Christ's Hospital, 517 
 
 Scientific, 525 
 
 Endell-street, and S. Mar- 
 
 Church Missionary, 517 
 
 Society of Arts, 525 
 
 tin's Schools, 535 
 
 Circulating, 527 
 
 Statistical Society, 525 
 
 Mug-house Club, 535 
 
 City of London Institution, 
 
 Tenison's, Archbishop, 525 
 
 Nostrums, sale of, 535 
 
 517 
 
 Tower of London, 526 
 
 Prior's Chloe, 535 
 
 Civil Engineers' Institution, 
 
 United Service Institution, 
 
 Rose-street and Dryden 
 
 517 
 
 Whitehall, 526 
 
 cudgelled, 535 
 
 Clockmakers' Company, 517 
 
 University College, 526 
 
 Taylor, the Water-poet, 534 
 
 Club-houses, 517 
 
 Williams's Library, 526 
 
 LORD MAYOR'S STATE : 
 
 College of Physicians, 277 
 
 Zoological Society. 527 
 
 Banquets, Inauguration,537 
 
 College of Surgeons, 517 
 
 LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS: 
 
 Bullen, Sir Geoffrey, 537 
 
 Corporation of London, 
 
 Duke-street : Silver Foun- 
 
 Custard at Feasts, 5U6 
 
 518 
 
 tain, magnificent, 528 
 
 Collar, 536 
 
 Cottonian, 518 
 
 Extent of, 527 
 
 Costume and Jewels, 536 
 
 Department of Practical 
 
 Inclosed, 528 
 
 Fool, 536 
 
 Art, 518 
 
 Law Courts, New, 529 
 
 Household, 537 
 
 Doctors' Commons, 313 
 
 Lindsey House, 527 
 
 Jewels, 536 
 
 Dulwich College, 274 
 
 Mumpers and Rufflers, 528 
 
 Lord Mayor's Day expenses, 
 
 Dutch Church, 519 
 
 Place of Execution and Pil- 
 
 537 
 
 East India Company, 520 
 
 lory, 527, 528 
 
 Mace and Sword, 536 
 
 Ellesmere, 520 
 
 Russell, William Lord, 527 
 
 Pearl Sword, 537 
 
 Free Libraries, 527 
 
 Turnstile, Great and Little, 
 
 Plate, 537 
 
 Geographical Society, 520 
 
 528 
 
 Salary, 536 
 
 Heralds' College, 275 
 
 Whetstone's Park, 528 
 
 Seals, 536 
 
 Horticultural Society, 521 
 
 LITERARY FUND : 
 
 Silver Cradle, 537 
 
 Hospitals, 521 
 
 Grants, 529 
 
 State Banquets, 536 
 
 Incorporated Law Society, 
 
 First Dinner, 529 
 
 Staff, 536 
 
 521 
 
 House, Adelphi Terrace, 1 
 
 Watermen, 537 
 
 Inns of Court and Chancery, 
 
 Instituted, 529 
 
 Whittington, 537 
 
 521 
 
 Odes, authors of, 529 
 
 LUDGATE, LUDGATE HlLL, 
 
 King's College, 521 
 
 LITTLE BRITAIN : 
 
 AND STREET : 
 
 Lambeth Palace, 501 
 
 Booksellers, 529, 530 
 
 Barbican, or Watch Tower, 
 
 Linnaean Society, 521 
 
 Bretagne, Duke of, 529 
 
 539 
 
 Literary Fund, 521 
 
 Duke-street, 530 
 
 Belle Sauvage Inn. 539 
 
 London Institution, 522 
 
 Milton lodged, 530 
 
 Elizabeth, Queen, Statue of, 
 
 London Library, 522 
 
 Spectator published, 530 
 
 from the Gate, 538 
 
 Mathematical Society, 522 
 
 LOMBARD-STREET : 
 
 Foster, Sir Stephen, 538 
 
 Mechanics' Institute, 522 
 
 Abchurch-lane, 531 
 
 Lud-gate, 538 
 
 Medical and Chirurgical 
 
 Badge of the Lombards, 530 
 
 Newberry, bookseller, 539 
 
 Society, 522 
 
 Banking-houses, 532 
 
 S. Paul's and S. Martin's 
 
 Medical Society, 350, 520 
 
 Barclay'sbanking-house,532 j Churches, 539
 
 858 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 LUDGATE, LUDGATE HILL, 
 
 MANSIONS continued. 
 
 MANSIONS continued. 
 
 AND STREET continued. 
 
 De Grey, Earl : 
 
 Pictures and Carvings, 
 
 Prison of Ludgate, 538 
 
 Pictures, 548 
 
 555 
 
 Prison Thouffhts, 538 
 
 Devonshire House : 
 
 Overstone, Lord: Pictures, 
 
 Railway viaduct, 539 
 
 Amateur performance,548 
 
 555 
 
 Rundell and Bridge's shop, 
 
 Berkeley House, 548 
 
 Peel, Sir Robert : Pictures, 
 
 539 
 
 Bibliographical rarities, 
 
 555 
 
 Wyat, Sir T., rebellion, 539 
 
 548 
 
 Rothschild, Baron, 556 
 
 
 Libra di Verita, 548 
 
 Rutland House, 556 
 
 MAGDALEN HOSPITAL : 
 
 Pictures, 548 
 
 Sibthorp, Colonel: 
 
 Benefactors, 540 
 
 Redecorated, 548 
 
 Collection of Plate, Porce- 
 
 Dodd, Dr., chaplain, 540 
 
 Dorchester House : 
 
 lain, Glass, &c., 556 
 
 Household, 541 
 
 Pictures, 549 
 
 Spencer House, 556 
 
 Magdalens, their dress and 
 
 Dover House : 
 
 Stafford House Built for 
 
 work, 540 
 
 .Lord Melbourne; Duke of 
 
 the Duke of York : 
 
 MANSION HOUSE : 
 
 York, 549 
 
 Pictures and Sculpture, 
 
 Architecture, 540 
 
 Dudley House : 
 
 556, 557 
 
 Egyptian Hall, 541 
 
 Pictures, 549 
 
 Tomliae, Mr. G. : Pictures, 
 
 Kitchen, 541 
 
 Gloucester House: 
 
 557 
 
 Venetian and Wilkes's Par- 
 
 Elgin Marbles, $49 
 
 Uxbridge House : The poet 
 
 lours, 541 
 
 Tapestry Carpet, 549 
 
 Gay, 557 
 
 Tables, 541 
 
 Grosvenor House : 
 
 MARKETS : - 
 
 MANSIONS : 
 Apsley House, 541 
 
 Picture G allery ,and 
 Screen, 549 " 
 
 Billingsgate, 55, 557 
 Borough, 559 
 
 Bed-room and private- 
 
 Grosvenor Gallery of Pic- 
 
 Clare, 559 
 
 room, 543 
 
 tures and Sculpture, 550 
 
 Colombia, 558 
 
 Bullet-proof blinds, 541 
 
 Harcourt House, 650 
 
 Corn, Mark-lane, 329 
 
 China and Plate, 542 
 
 Hertford House : 
 
 Covent Garden, 553 
 
 Pictures and Sculpture, 
 
 Pictures, china, &c., 550 
 
 Farringdon, 559 
 
 541, 542 
 
 Holdernease House : 
 
 Hungerford, 559 
 
 Site, 543 
 
 Pictures, Sculpture, 550 
 
 Leadenhall, 560 
 
 Wellington Shield, 542 
 
 Hope House : 
 
 Metropolitan Cattle, 560 
 
 Argyll House : 
 
 Antiques and Pictures, 
 
 Newgate Market, 560 
 
 Aberdeen Ministry, 543 
 Industrial School, 543 
 Bath House: 
 
 Duchess-street Collection, 
 551 
 Lansdowne House : 
 
 Newport, 561 j 
 Oxford Market, 561 r '|ft~v6*O 
 Smithfield, 561 
 
 Pictures, Sculpture, 544 
 Bedford, Duke of, Pictures, 
 
 Pictures and Sculpture, 
 551, 552 
 
 Stocks Market, 561 V L^( < 
 MARK-LANE : 
 
 544 
 
 Lyndhurst Lord : 
 
 Blanch Appleton Manor- 
 
 Bernal, Ralph, Esq., Works 
 
 Pictures by Copley, 552 
 
 house, 562 
 
 of Art, Books, and Prints, 
 
 Manchester House,' 552 
 
 MARTIN'S (S.) LANE : 
 
 544 
 
 Marlborough House : 
 
 Notable Tenants, 562 
 
 Bridgewater House : 
 
 Architect, Wren, 552 
 
 Porridge Island, 562 
 
 Pictures, 545 
 
 Duke and Duchess of 
 
 MARTIN'S (S.) LE GRAND : 
 
 Buckingham House, Pall 
 
 Marlborough, 552 
 
 College and Sanctuary, 562, 
 
 Mall : Ministers of War, 
 
 Hall and Paintings, 553 
 
 563 
 
 545 
 
 Princess Charlotte and 
 
 Crypt, 303 
 
 Burlington House : 
 
 Prince Leopold, 552 
 
 Inns, Taverns, Trades, 563 
 
 Burlington, Lord, his ad- 
 
 Prince and Princess of 
 
 Roman remains, 563 
 
 ditions, 545 
 
 Wales, 553 
 
 MARYLEBONE : 
 
 Cavendish Family, 546 
 
 Re-embellished, 553 
 
 Bowling-greens, 564 
 
 Gay, on, 546 
 
 Stables, new, 553 
 
 Extent and Manor, 563 
 
 Hogarth's caricature, 546 
 
 Montague House, Blooms- 
 
 Gardens, 564 
 
 Pope's Eulogy, 545 
 
 bury, 573, 574 
 
 Park and Regent's Park,563 
 
 University of London, 54 7 
 
 Montague House, Whitehall, 
 
 Prize-fighting, 564 
 
 Walpole, Horace, on, 545 
 
 553 
 
 Tyburn-road, 564 
 
 Cambridge House : 
 
 Rebuilt, 554 
 
 MAY FAIR; 
 
 Duke of Cambridge and 
 
 Montague House, Portman- 
 
 S. James's Fair, 564 
 
 Lord Palmerston, 547 
 
 square, 554 
 
 Keith's Chapel, 565 
 
 Naval and Military Club- 
 
 Montague House, South- 
 
 Marriages, 565 
 
 house, 547 
 
 war k, 554 
 
 MEWS, ROYAL : 
 
 Chesterfield House : 
 
 Norfolk House : 
 
 Charing, 565 
 
 Lord Chesterfield and 
 
 Pictures and Coronation 
 
 Original Mews, 565 
 
 French Cookery, 547 
 
 Plate, 554 
 
 Queen's Mews, Pimlico, 565 
 
 Portraits, Busts, and 
 
 Norman ton, Lord : 
 
 Royal Mews, Pinner-st., 566 
 
 Bronzes, 547 
 
 Pictures, 554 
 
 State Coach, 565, 566 
 
 Clarence house, 547 
 
 Northumberland House, 
 
 MlNORIES : 
 
 Clarendon House, Picca- 
 
 Northampton House, 
 
 Gunsmiths, 566 
 
 dilly, 672 
 
 and Suffolk House, 555 
 
 Haydon-square, 566
 
 INDEX. 
 
 859 
 
 MINORIES continued. 
 
 MUSEUM, BRITISH continues 
 
 MUSEUMS continued. 
 
 Holy Trinity, 566 
 
 General Library, 584 
 
 Civil Engineers' Institu- 
 
 Nuns of S. Clare, 5GG 
 
 Greville Library, 58* 
 
 tion, 592 
 
 MINT, ROYAL : 
 
 Newspapers, 585 
 
 College of Physicians, 593 
 
 Curiosities, 567 
 
 Mammalia Saloon, 576 
 
 College of Surgeons, 592 
 
 Lully, the Alchemist, 5G7 
 
 Manuscripts ; 
 
 Corporation, 593 
 
 Machinery, steam, 568 
 
 Ancient Rolls and Char- 
 
 Cox's Museum, 594 
 
 Mint, Tower, 566 
 
 ters, 587 
 
 Cumingian Museum, 595 
 
 Old and New Mints, 567, 568 
 
 Magna Charta, 587 
 
 Daniel, George, Canon- 
 
 Pix, 568 
 
 Pope's Bulls, 587 
 
 bury, 595 
 
 Roman Mint, 566 
 
 Donation MSS., 587 
 
 Entomological Sosiety, 
 
 MIST, SOUTHWARK : 
 
 Medal Room, 583 
 
 595 
 
 Asylum for Debtors, 569 
 
 Mediaeval Collection, 583 
 
 Geology, Practical, 595 
 
 Marriages, illicit, 569 
 
 Mineral Collections, 578 
 
 Geological Society, 596 
 
 Minters, exodus of, 569 
 
 Montngue Great Gate, 
 
 Geological (Bowerbank's), 
 
 Poets in the Mint, 569 
 
 573 
 
 596 
 
 Saxon and Norman Mints, 
 
 Montague House, 573 
 
 Guiana Collection, 596 
 
 569 
 
 North Gallery (Fossils), 
 
 Hospitals : Anatomical 
 
 Suffolk Manor, 568 
 
 576-578 
 
 Museums, 596 
 
 MONUMENT, THE : 
 
 Northern Zoological Gal- 
 
 Hudson's Bay Company's, 
 
 Cibber's sculpture, 570 
 
 lery, 576 
 
 596 
 
 Described, 570 
 
 Origin of the Museum, 574 
 
 Hunter's (W.) Museum, 
 
 Legends, 571 
 
 Papyri, 588 
 
 597 
 
 Model, 570 
 
 Portraits in Eastern Zoo- 
 
 India Museum, 597 
 
 Pope's couplet, 571 
 
 logical Gallery, 576 
 
 King's College, 597 
 
 Royal Society's observa- 
 
 Print-room : 
 
 Leverian Museum, 512 
 
 tions, 570 
 
 Drawings and Engrav- 
 
 Manufactures and Orra- 
 
 Suicides from, 571 
 
 ings, 588 
 
 mental Art, 598 
 
 MOORFIELDS : 
 
 Keepers of the Prints, 588 
 
 Meade's Dr., 598 
 
 Archery, 572 
 
 Portraits, 589 
 
 Missionary, 599 
 
 Bethlem Hospital, 572 
 
 Admission and Cata- 
 
 Naval Museum, 599 
 
 Bone Skate?, 571 
 
 logues, 589 
 
 National Repository, 599 
 
 Calves' Head Club, 573 
 
 Reading-room : 
 
 Pharmaceutical Society, 
 
 Canning, Elizabeth, 572 
 
 Construction and dimen- 
 
 599 
 
 Coleman-street, 572 
 
 sions, 585 ; admission 
 
 Private Collections, 606 
 
 Common Hunt, 572 
 
 to, 587 
 
 Rackstrow's Museum, 599 
 
 Evelyn and Pepys, 572 
 
 Sculpture, by Westmacott, 
 
 Royal Society, 600 
 
 Lackington's, 573 
 
 575 
 
 Saltero, Don, 600 
 
 Moor-gate, 572 
 
 Sloane and Harleian Col- 
 
 Saull's Collection, 600 
 
 MUSEUM, BRITISH : 
 
 lections, 574 
 
 Sloane Museum, 601 
 
 Antiquities Department, 578 
 
 Smirke, Sir R., 574 
 
 Soane Museum, 601 
 
 Assyrian Galleries, 581 
 
 Southern Zoological Gal- 
 
 Society of Arts, 603 
 
 Bibles and Psalters, 587 
 
 lery, 576 
 
 South Kensington Ma- 
 
 Botanical or Bankeian De- 
 
 Statues of Shakspeare, 
 
 seum, 603 
 
 partment, 578 
 
 Banks, and Mrs. Darner, 
 
 Tradescant's, 604 
 
 British and Anglo-Roman 
 
 575 
 
 Trinity House, 605 
 
 Remains, 579 
 
 Stones, immense, 574 
 
 United Service Institu- 
 
 British and Mediaeval Room, 
 
 Syrian Gallery, 579 
 
 tion, 605 
 
 583 
 
 Temple Collection, 582 
 
 University College, 605 
 
 Bronze Room, 582 
 
 Townley Collection, 579 
 
 Waterloo Museum, 606 
 
 Central Saloon, 576 
 
 Vase-rooms : Hamilton and 
 
 Weeks's Museum, 606 
 
 Cost of Museum buildings, 
 
 Portland Vases, 582 
 
 Zoological Society's, 606 
 
 575 
 
 Zoological Collections, 575, 
 
 Music HAija : 
 
 Early Christian Collection, 
 
 576 
 
 Alhambra, 608 
 
 583 
 
 MUSEUMS : 
 
 Canterbury, 608 
 
 Eastern Zoological Gallery, 
 
 Adelaide Gallery, 589 
 
 Evans's, 608 
 
 576 
 
 Anatomical Museums, 589 
 
 Grecian, 609 
 
 Egyptian Gallery and 
 
 Antiquaries, Society of 
 
 Hanover-square, 609 
 
 Rooms, 581 
 
 (Pictures), 589 
 
 Highbury Barn, 608 
 
 Elgin Rooms, 579 
 
 Antiquities of London,590 
 
 James's, S., 608 
 
 Ethnographical Rooms, 583 
 
 Archaeological Association 
 
 Oxford, 608 
 
 Exhibition Rooms, plans of, 
 
 and Institute, 590 
 
 Philharmonic, 608 
 
 577 
 
 Architects' Institute, 590 
 
 Surrey Music Hall, 609 
 
 Gates and Railing, 575 
 
 Architectural, 591 
 
 
 Greco-Roman Rooms, 579 
 
 Armouries, 591 
 
 "VTEWINGTON BUTTS: 
 
 Hellenic Rooms, 580 
 
 Autographs, 591 
 
 * * Butts for Archery, 614 
 
 Libraries : 
 
 Botanical Society, 591 
 
 Cnut's Trench, 615 
 
 . Royal Library : Books 
 
 Brookes'd Museum, 591 
 
 Origin of, 614 
 
 with Autographs, 584 
 
 Bullock's Museum, 320 
 
 Walworth, Sir W., 614
 
 860 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 NEWI:NGTON, STOKE : 
 
 OMNIBUS, THE continued. 
 
 PALACES, ROYAL continued. 
 
 Abney Park, 615 
 
 First established, Gi>0 
 
 Sculptures, 629 
 
 Bishop's Place, 615 
 
 Greenwich stages, 620 
 
 State Apartments, 628 
 
 King Henry's Walk, CIS 
 
 Shillibeer, 620, 621 
 
 Stothard, T., R.A., 628 
 
 Newington-green, 615 
 
 OXFORD-STREET : 
 
 Throne-room, 628 
 
 Notable Persons, 615 
 
 S. Anne's parish, 621 
 
 Carlton House : 
 
 Kural village, 615 
 
 Camelford House, 623 
 
 Arms and Costumes, 635 
 
 NEW RIVER : 
 
 Han way-street, 622 
 
 Carlton-house-terrace,635 
 
 Chadwell and Amwell 
 
 Marylebone old church, 621 
 
 Carlton, Lord, 634 
 
 Springs, 609 
 
 Newman-street and Berners- 
 
 Conservatory, 635 
 
 Myddelton, Sir Hugh, 609 
 
 street, 623 
 
 Epigrams, 635 
 
 James I. and Charles I., 619 
 
 New Oxford-street, 623 
 
 Furniture, 635 
 
 Pipes, 610 
 
 Nollekens's Recollections 
 
 Gardens, by Kent, 634 
 
 Myddelton family, 611 
 
 622, 623 
 
 Holland's alterations, 634 
 
 New River Shares, 612 
 
 Pantheon, 622, 639, 640 
 
 Interior described, 635 
 
 River course, 611 
 
 Pennant's Recollections, 621 
 
 Kensington Gravel, 634 
 
 New River Head, 611 
 
 Portland-place, notable resi- 
 
 Marriages, royal, 635 
 
 Sadler's Wells Theatre, 612 
 
 dents, 622 
 
 Portico, 634 
 
 Statue of Sir Hugh Myddel- 
 
 Statue : Duke of Kent, 602 
 
 Regent's supper to 2000 
 
 ton, 612 
 
 Stratford-place, 622 
 
 guests, 635 
 
 NEW ROAD : 
 
 Tyburn-brook, 620 
 
 Sheridan's bon mot, 635 
 
 Euston, Marylebone, and 
 
 Tyburn andOxford-road,621 
 
 Taken down, 635 
 
 Pentonville Roads, 613 
 
 Wardour-street, 622 
 
 Wales, Princess of, died, 
 
 Formation, 613 
 
 
 634 
 
 Harley-house, 613 
 
 PADDINGTON : 
 
 Walpole, Horace, de- 
 
 Opposition to, 612 
 
 * Bishop's Estate, 624 
 
 scribes, 634 
 
 NEWGATE -STREET : 
 
 Churches, 624 
 
 S. James's Palace : 
 
 Bas-relief, 614 
 
 Craven Hill, 624 
 
 Ambassadors' Court, 631 
 
 Bath-street, 614 
 
 Dudley Grove and Welling- 
 
 Board of Green cloth, 031 
 
 King Edward-street, 614 
 
 ton Statue, 624 
 
 Chapel Royal, 140 
 
 Pannyer-alley, 614 
 
 Forest of Middlesex, 623 
 
 Colour Court, 631 
 
 Warwick-lane, 614 
 
 Maida Hill, 624 
 
 Court of S. James's, 631 
 
 NEWSPAPERS : 
 
 Padding-ton Green, 624 
 
 Drawing-rooms and Le- 
 
 British Museum collection, 
 
 Paddington, Past and Pre- 
 
 vees, 632 
 
 585 
 
 sent, 623 
 
 Friary, 630 
 
 Dates of early Newspapers, 
 
 Population, 623 
 
 Gate-tower and Great 
 
 616,617 
 
 Public Houses, old, 625 
 
 Clock, 631 
 
 Illustrated London News, 618 
 
 Saxon name, 623 
 
 Gen tlemen-at- Arms, 632 
 
 Morning Chronicle, 616 
 
 Tyburnia, 623, 624 
 
 George IV. bom, 631 
 
 Morning Herald, 616 
 
 Westbourne Green, 624 
 
 German Chapel, 630 
 
 Morning Post, 616 
 
 PAINTED CHAMBER: 
 
 Guard-chamber, 631 
 
 News of the Present Week,615 
 
 Conferences and Courts, 625 
 
 Hospital, ancient, 630 
 
 Times, 616: Printing ma- 
 
 Edward the Confessor, 625 
 
 Manor-house, 630 
 
 chinery, 616, 617 
 
 Paintings and tapestry, 625 
 
 Monk, General, 630 
 
 Weekly newspapers, 617 
 
 PALACES, ROYAL : 
 
 Norman Remains, 630 
 
 
 Buckingham Palace: 
 
 Pictures, collection of,632 
 
 OLD BAILEY: 
 
 Arlington House, 626 
 
 Tapestry-room, 632 
 
 Bales, the penman ; Camden 
 
 Ball-room, 629 
 
 Throne-room and Queen's 
 
 born, 619 
 
 Buckingham House, 626 
 
 Closet, 632 
 
 Execution, first, 618 
 
 Blore, architect, 627 
 
 Verrio, the Painter, 630 
 
 Executions, Memorable, 619 
 
 Cartoons of Raphael, 637 
 
 William, Prince of Orange, 
 
 Green Arbour- court, 619 
 
 Chapel, 629. 
 
 630 
 
 Hogarth born, 618, 619 
 
 Costume Balls, 629 
 
 William IV. and the Great 
 
 Skinner-st. Execution, 619 
 
 East Front, 627 
 
 Clock, 631 
 
 Surgeons' Theatre, 618 
 
 George III. Library, 627 
 
 Yeomen of the Guard, 632 
 
 Sydney House, 618 
 
 Green Drawing-room, 628 
 
 Kensington Palace : 
 
 OLD JEWRY : 
 
 Grand Staircase, 628 
 
 Accession of Queen Vic- 
 
 Clayton, Sir Robert, 619 
 
 Marble Arch, 627 
 
 toria, 633 
 
 Jews and Synagogue, 619 
 
 Marble Hall and Sculp- 
 
 Anne, Queen, and Prince 
 
 London Institution, 620 
 
 ture Gallery, 627 
 
 George, 633 
 
 Lord Mayor's Court, 620 
 
 Mulberry Garden, 626 
 
 Banqueting House, 493 
 
 Person, Prof. 620 
 
 Nash, architect, 627 
 
 Cube-room, 633 
 
 OLD-STREET : 
 
 Paintings, 627 
 
 First Council of Queen 
 
 Picthatch, 620 
 
 Pavilion in Garden, 629 
 
 Victoria, 633 
 
 S. Leonard's, Shoreditcb.,620 
 
 Picture Gallery, 628 
 
 George II., death of, 633 
 
 Roman Road, C20 
 
 Pictures, collection of, 628 
 
 Great Staircase, 633 
 
 Vinegar Works, 620 
 
 Pleasure Grounds, 629 
 
 Kent, Duke and Duchess 
 
 OMNIBUS, THE : 
 
 Queen's House, 627 
 
 Of, 633 
 
 Barricade, 6B1 
 
 Royal Mews, 565 
 
 King's Gallery, 633
 
 INDEX. 
 
 861 
 
 PALACES, ROYAL continued. 
 
 PANTHEON continued. 
 
 PARKS continued. 
 
 Library of the Duke of 
 
 Rebuilt, 640 
 
 Let in Farms, 644 
 
 Sussex, 634 
 
 Theatre, 640 
 
 Manor of Hyde, 644 
 
 Nottingham, Finch, Earl 
 
 Winter Ranelagh, 639 
 
 Memorial to the Prince 
 
 of, 632 
 
 Wyatt, James, architect, 639 
 
 Consort, 647 
 
 Paintings, 634 
 
 PANCRAS, S. : 
 
 Ring and Review, 645 
 
 Palace Green, 634 
 
 Agar Town, 640 
 
 Riot in I860, 649 
 
 Presence Chamber, 633 
 
 Battle Bridge and Roman 
 
 Rotten Row, 646 
 
 Queen's Gallery, 633 
 
 inscription, 641 
 
 Royal Humane Society's 
 
 Queen Victoria born, 633 
 
 Brill of Somers Town, 640 
 
 House, 648 
 
 Sussex, Duke of, 633 
 
 Cantelows or Kentish Town, 
 
 Serpentine, the, 648 
 
 William III. purchases the 
 
 640 
 
 Statue of Achilles, 646 
 
 Mansion, 632 
 
 Cemetery, 641 
 
 Vending victuals, 645 
 
 Wren, Hawskmoor, and 
 
 Church, ancient, 640 
 
 S. James's Park : 
 
 Kent, architects, 632, 
 
 Churches, various, 641 
 
 After-dinner Promenade, 
 
 633 
 
 Domesday, 640 
 
 653 
 
 PALL-MALL; 
 
 Extent, 640 
 
 Birdcage Walk, 652 
 
 Angerstein and Vernon, 630 
 
 Gospel Oak Field, 641 
 
 Canal Decoy, and Duck 
 
 Banks's sculpture, 639 
 
 Hampstead Wells and 
 
 Island, 652 
 
 British Institution, 639 
 
 Walk, 641 
 
 Charles I., Cromwell, and 
 
 Charles Il.and Paille-Maille, 
 
 Houses and Population, 640 
 
 Whitdock, 651 
 
 636 
 
 King's Cross, 641 
 
 Charles II. additions, 651 
 
 Club-houses, 639 
 
 Mineral Springs, 641 
 
 Charles II, and Nell 
 
 Coffee-houses and taverns, 
 
 Railway Termini, 641 
 
 Gwynne, 652, 653 
 
 637 
 
 PARIS GARDEN : 
 
 Evelyn, Pepys, and 
 
 De Foe and Gay describe.GSS 
 
 Cure's Almshouses, 642 
 
 Waller, 651 
 
 Denison, W. J., M.P., 638 
 
 Falcon Theatre, 642 
 
 Goldsmith in Park, 653 
 
 Dodsley, the bookseller, 638 
 
 Holland's Leaguer, 642 
 
 Horse Guards Parade,654 
 
 Duel of Lord Byron aud Mr, 
 
 Origin of, 641 
 
 Mall and the game of 
 
 Chaworth, 637 
 
 PARKS : 
 
 Paille MaiHe, 636, 651 
 
 Fossils discovered, 639 
 
 Number, cost, income, 642 
 
 Milk Fair, 654 
 
 Gas lighting, 371 
 
 Albert Finsbury Park, 642 
 
 Milton's garden-house, 654 
 
 Gillray, caricaturist, 636 
 
 Battersea Park : 
 
 Nursery for Deer, 651 
 
 Giaham, Dr., his Goddess of 
 
 Earth from the London 
 
 Ornithological Society's 
 
 Health, 638 
 
 Docks, 642 
 
 House, 654 
 
 James I. and Palle-Malle, 
 
 Lake, 643 
 
 Peace Commemoration, 
 
 636 
 
 Lammas Lands, 642 
 
 1814, 653 
 
 Living Skeleton, 637 
 
 Laying out, 643 
 
 Privileges, Skating, Phy- 
 
 Lodge's Portraits, 639 
 
 Sub-Tropical Garden, 643 
 
 sic Garden, and Me- 
 
 Mail robbed in, 638 
 
 Chelsea Hospital Grounds : 
 
 nagerie, 652 
 
 Marlborough House, 552 
 
 Pensioners' allotments, 
 
 Rosamond's Pond, 653 
 
 Nell Gwynne, lived, 637 
 
 643 
 
 Soult's Mortar, 654 
 
 Paille-maille, game of, 635 
 
 Green Park : 
 
 Wellington Barracks, 653 
 
 Pell Mel 1 Close, 636 
 
 Constitution Hill, 643 
 
 State Paper Office, 654 
 
 Pall-mall East : 
 
 Arch at Hyde-park Cor- 
 
 Kennington Park : 
 
 Calres' Head Club, 639 
 
 ner, 644 
 
 Flower-gardens, Lodge, 
 
 Hedge-lane, 639 
 
 Lunatic attempts to assa- 
 
 649 
 
 " Rookery," the, 636 
 
 sinate the Queen, 644 
 
 Poplar Recreation Grounds, 
 
 Koyal Academy, 635 
 
 Mansions, Gardens, 643 
 
 649 
 
 Schomberg House,449,638 
 
 Peace Commemoration, 
 
 Primrose Hill Park : 
 
 Sedans and Chairmen, 639 
 
 643 
 
 Gymnasium, 650 
 
 Shakspeare Gallery, 639 
 
 Peel, Sir R., death of, 644 
 
 Regent's Park: 
 
 Sights and Amusements, 
 
 Hyde Park : 
 
 Botanic Society's Garden, 
 
 637 
 
 Cheesecakes and milk, 644 
 
 369, 650 
 
 Sydenham, D., 636 
 
 Coaches and gallants, 645 
 
 Colosseum, 280-283 
 
 Thelwall, John, 639 
 
 Commonwealth troops, 
 
 S. Dunstan's Villa and 
 
 Thynne, murder of, 637 
 
 645 
 
 clock-flgures, 650 
 
 "Tully's Head," 636 
 
 Conduits and Fountains, 
 
 Flower-gardens, 650 
 
 Vulliamys, royal clock- 
 
 646 
 
 Marylebone Farm and 
 
 makers, 636 
 
 Cromwell driving, 645 
 
 Fields, 650 
 
 War-office, Statue of Lord 
 
 Crystal Palace, 647 
 
 Observatory, 650 
 
 Herbert, 639 
 
 Deer, races, and tolls, 644 
 
 Plan, 650 
 
 Warwick House and Prin- 
 
 Drives and flowers, 648 
 
 Sheet of Water, 650 
 
 cess Charlotte, 639 
 
 Duels fought in Hyde- 
 
 Toxopholite Society, 650 
 
 Wyat, Sir Thomas, 636 
 
 park, 649 
 
 Villas and Grounds, 651 
 
 PANTHEON : 
 
 Fairs and Fireworks, 645 
 
 Zoological Society's Gar 
 
 Bazaar, 41, 640 
 
 Gates and Arches, 646 
 
 den and Menagerie, 650 
 
 Fire, destructive, 640 
 
 GreatExhibition 1851,646 
 
 Southwark Park, 651 
 
 Masquerade, 640 
 
 Law of the Parks, 649 
 
 Victoria Park :
 
 862 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PARKS continued. 
 
 PARLIAMENT HOUSES contd 
 
 PICCADILLY continued. 
 
 Drinking Fountain, G55 
 
 North Front, 659 
 
 Albemarle-street and Cla- 
 
 Flower-beds, 655 
 
 Old Court of Requests, 656 
 
 rendon House, 671 
 
 Ornamental Lake, 655 
 
 Painted Chamber, 656 
 
 Apsley House, 541-543 
 
 Pleasures of the People 
 
 Paintings in St. Stephen 
 
 Arlington and Bennet- 
 
 655 
 
 Chapel, 658 
 
 streets, 673 
 
 Purchase of Ground, 655 
 
 Prince's Chamber, 656, 662 
 
 Beckford, William, lived, 
 
 PARLIAMENT HOUSES : 
 
 Queen's Robing-room, 662 
 
 670 
 
 Admission of the Public, 66 
 
 River- Wall, 658 
 
 Berkeley-street and Dover- 
 
 Armada Tapestry, 656 
 
 Rufus's Great Hall, 656 
 
 street, 671 
 
 Barry's design, 658 
 
 Sculpture, Victoria Tower 
 
 Bolton, Clarges, and Half- 
 
 Central Clock-tower, 661 
 
 661 
 
 moon streets, 671 
 
 Central Hall : 
 
 South Front Saxo 
 
 Bond-street, 672 
 
 Statues of Kings an 
 
 Kings and Queens, 660 
 
 Burdett, Sir Francis, 671 
 
 Queens, 662 
 
 Speaker's House, 666 
 
 Burlington-gardens, 673 
 
 Clock, the Great, 659 
 
 Star-chamber, 656 
 
 Cadogan, Earl ; collection of 
 
 Clock Tower Dials, 658,65 
 
 Statues in S. Stephen' 
 
 Plate and Porcelain, 670 
 
 Cloisters and Crypt, 658 
 
 Hall, 665 
 
 Clarendon Hotel, 672, 673 
 
 Commons' House, 665 
 
 S. Stephen's Chapel, 656 
 
 Clarendon House described; 
 
 Bar, the, 666 
 
 S. Stephen's Cloisters, 665 
 
 pictures, 672 
 
 Commons' entrance, 661 
 
 S.Stephen's Hall, 662, 665 
 
 Cork-street, 673 
 
 Commons' Libraries 
 
 S. Stephen's Porch, 661, 665 
 
 Devonshire House Ticket, 
 
 Lobby, and Refresh 
 
 S. Stephen's Staircase, 661 
 
 by E. M. Ward, 671 
 
 ment Rooms, 666 
 
 Ventilation of the two 
 
 Gloucester House, 549 
 
 Commons, by Wren, 658 
 
 Houses, 665 
 
 Hamilton-place, 670 
 
 Division Lobbies, 666 
 
 Victoria or Royal Gallery 
 
 Hercules' Pillars, 670 
 
 Painted Windows, 665 
 
 662 
 
 Hope House, 551 
 
 Speaker's Chair and Mace 
 
 Victoria Tower, View from 
 
 Hyde Park comer Turnpike- 
 
 666 
 
 660 
 
 Gate, 673 
 
 Cotton House, 658 
 
 West Front Statuettes,66l 
 
 S. James's Church altered, 
 
 East, or River Front, 659 
 
 Westminster Palace first 
 
 674 
 
 Edward the Confessor, 656 
 
 named, 656 
 
 S. James's Gallery of Art, 
 
 Electric Telegraph-office 
 
 PATERNOSTER-ROW : 
 
 674 
 
 662 
 
 Amen-corner, Ave Maria, 
 
 Nollekensat ScheemakersV, 
 
 Gates of the Old Palace 
 
 and Creed lanes, 667 
 
 Vine-street, 674 
 
 658, 662 
 
 Baldwin and Chambers, 6 67 
 
 Origin of Piccadilly, 6G9 
 
 General View, 661 
 
 Castle and Dolly's chop- 
 
 Ormond, Great Duke of, 672 
 
 Gibson's Statue of Queen 
 
 house, 668 
 
 Park-lane and Duke of 
 
 Victoria, 663 
 
 Chapter Coffee-house, 263, 
 
 Wellington, 670 
 
 Gold-leaf decoration, 659 
 
 668 
 
 Peter Pindar and GifIbrd,G74 
 
 Great Fire in 1834, 656 
 
 Cyclopcedias of Chambers 
 
 Peterborough, Earl of, 671 
 
 Ground-plan of the 
 
 and Rees, 667 
 
 Piccadilly Hall,and Shaver's 
 
 Houses, 657 
 
 Hamilton and Co., 668 
 
 Hall, 669 
 
 Law Courts, by Soane, 658 
 
 Longman's house, history of, 
 
 Pickering, publisher, 674 
 
 Lords, House of, 663 
 
 667 ; rebuilt, 667 
 
 Pope at school, 670 
 
 Bar, 663 
 
 Mercers and Lacemen, 667 
 
 Portugal-street, 669 
 
 Busts andlnscriptions,663 
 
 Newgate Market groaning- 
 
 Queensbury, Duke of, 670 
 
 Candelabra, large, 664 
 
 board, 668 
 
 Ranger's Lodge, Green 
 
 Decoration of Peers and 
 
 Origin of name, 667 
 
 Park, 670 
 
 Commons' Corridor, 665 
 
 Panyer-alley, 668 
 
 Royal Institution, 672 
 
 Frescoes and Painted 
 
 Publishers, early, 667 
 
 Stratton-street, the Duchess 
 
 Windows,.663 
 
 Religious Tract Society's 
 
 of S. Alban's, and Miss 
 
 Heraldic Ceiling, 663 
 
 Depot, 668 
 
 Burdett Coutts, 671 
 
 Old House of Lords, 656 
 
 Rivington's, Bible and 
 
 Swallow-street, 673 
 
 Peers' Libraries and Rob- 
 
 Crown, 667 
 
 Tennis courts, 669 
 
 ing-room, 664 
 
 Robinson's said Annual Re- 
 
 Van Nost's leaden Figures, 
 
 Peers' Lobby, 664 
 
 gister, 667 
 
 670 
 
 Peers' Robing-room, 661 
 
 Tarlton's Ordinary, 668 
 
 Uxbridge House, 673 
 
 Prince of Wales and 
 
 Warwick and Ivy-lanes,614, 
 
 Willoughby de Eresby, 
 
 Prince Consort's Chairs, 
 
 668 
 
 Lord, 670 
 
 664 
 
 Woodfall and Junius's Let- 
 
 Windmill-street, 669 
 
 Queen's Chair of State,664 
 
 ters, 667 
 
 Winstanley and Sir S. Mor- 
 
 Reporters' and Strangers' 
 
 PENTONVILLE: 
 
 land, 670 
 
 Galleries, 663 
 
 Gerard's Herbal, 668 
 
 Wright and Debrett, 674 
 
 Royal Throne, 664 
 
 Huntington the Preacher, 
 
 Wyat's Rebellion, 669 
 
 Memorial to Sir Charles 
 
 668 
 
 ICTURE GALLERIES : 
 
 Barry, 662 
 
 Penton's ville, 668 
 
 Dulwich Gallery, 678 
 
 New Palace, 659 
 
 'ICCADILLY : 
 
 National Gallery : 
 
 Norman Porch, 662 
 
 Albany, 673 
 
 Corinthian portico, 674
 
 INDEX. 
 
 863 
 
 PICTURE GALLERIES contd. 
 
 POPULATION : 
 
 PRIMROSE HILL : 
 
 Catalogue, 675 
 
 Census of 18011861, 684 
 
 Chalk Farm, 692 
 
 Origin of, 675 
 
 City Chamberlain's Statis- 
 
 Murder of Sir Edmund 
 
 Schools, English, Flemish, 
 
 tics, 685 
 
 Berry Godfrey, 692 
 
 French, Italian, and 
 
 City, Night and Day, 684 
 
 Primrose-hill Park, 650 
 
 Spanish, 675 
 
 Increase in the Suburbs, 685 
 
 View from Primrose-hill, 692 
 
 Sculpture in Hall, 674 
 
 Petty, Sir W., his prediction, 
 
 PRISONS : 
 
 Turner Pictures, three 
 
 684 
 
 Borough Compter, 698 
 
 styles, 675 
 
 Reign of Elizabeth, and be- 
 
 Bridewell, 62 65 
 
 Year's expenses, 675 
 
 fore the Fire, 683 
 
 Brixton House of Correction 
 
 Sheepshanks Pictures, 677 
 
 Registrar-General's Report 
 
 Treadmill, 693 
 
 National Portrait Exhibi- 
 
 in 1866, 684 
 
 City Prison, Holloway, 693 
 
 tion, 678 
 
 Return in 1867, 684 
 
 Clerkenwell Bridewell, 693 
 
 National Portrait Gallery, 
 
 Traffic of London, 685 
 
 Clink, Bankside, 693 
 
 678 
 
 Various estimates, 684 
 
 Cold-bath Fields Prison,693 
 
 Picture Collections, private, 
 
 PORT OF LONDON : 
 
 Committals in one year, 
 
 679 
 
 Billingsgate, 54 
 
 692 
 
 Royal Academy : 
 
 Custom House, 305 
 
 Fleet Prison, 344-346 
 
 Annual Dinner, 677 
 
 Day's Business, 686 
 
 Giltspur-street Compter.695 
 
 Diploma Pictures and 
 
 Docks, 309312 
 
 Horsemonger-lane Gaol,695 
 
 Sculptures, 676 
 
 Easterlings, the, 685 
 
 Ludgate Prison, 538, 696 
 
 Drawing- Schools, Hall of 
 
 Execution Dock, 686 
 
 Marshalsea Prison, 696 
 
 Casts, Library, 676 
 
 Extent' of Port, 686 
 
 Millbank Prison, 697 
 
 Exhibition proceeds, 677 
 
 Fitzstephen's account, 685 
 
 Newgate, 697 
 
 Foundation Members, 676 
 
 Geographical position, 685 
 
 Cemetery, 699 
 
 Memorials and Pictures, 
 
 Jews and Guilds, 686 
 
 Condemned Sermons, 698 
 
 677 
 
 Loss of Life in the Pool, 686 
 
 Cool Tankard and Bartho- 
 
 Origin of, 676 
 
 Tacitus's account, 685 
 
 lomew Fair, 699 
 
 Somerset House, 676 
 
 PORTUGAL-STREET : 
 
 Debtors' Door, 697 
 
 Students admitted, 677 
 
 College of Surgeons, 688 
 
 Hobhouse, Mr., and Lord 
 
 Vernon Collections, 677 
 
 Duke's Theatre, 687 
 
 Byron, 699 
 
 PLAGUE, THE GREAT, 679 : 
 
 Grange, Carey-street, 688 
 
 Imprisonments, Memor- 
 
 Cock Alehouse Token, 681 
 
 Joe Miller's grave, 688 
 
 able, 698 
 
 Defoe's Journal, 680 
 
 Stocks, last in London, 688 
 
 Interior reconstructed,699 
 
 Grocer in Wood-street, 681 
 
 Tennis-court, 687 
 
 Lord George Gordon, 698 
 
 Importation of, 680 
 
 Will's Coffee-house, 688 
 
 Press-yard, 556 
 
 Peps and Evelyn, accounts 
 
 POST-OFFICE : 
 
 Riots of 1780,697 
 
 by, 680 
 
 Chief Office, S. Martin's-le- 
 
 Statues in exterior, 697 
 
 Piper and his Dog, 680 
 
 Grand, 688 
 
 New Prison, Clerkenwell, 
 
 Plague of 1603, 681 
 
 Dead Letter Office, 690 
 
 699 
 
 "Plague Cross," 681 
 
 Five locations, 688 
 
 Pentonville Prison, 699 
 
 Ravages of, 680 
 
 Foreign Mails, 689 
 
 Poultry Compter, 628 
 
 Remedies, 680 
 
 Foreign posts, old, 688 
 
 Queen's Prison : 
 
 PlMLICO : 
 
 Freeling, Sir Francis, 690 
 
 Cochrane, Lord, Hay don 
 
 Belgravia, 679 
 
 Great Clock, 688 
 
 and Hone, 701, 702 
 
 Chantrey, the sculptor, 679 
 
 Hill, Rowland, 690 
 
 Combe (Dr. Syntax) and 
 
 Duchy of Cornwall office, 
 
 Letters, number of, 690 
 
 Palmer, the actor, 702, 
 
 679 
 
 Mail-coaches and Railways, 
 
 703 
 
 Ebury-street, 679 
 
 689 
 
 Imprisonment for Debt, 
 
 Pimlico ale, 678 
 
 Mech anical con tri van ces, 6 8 8 
 
 703 
 
 Pimlico, Chelsea, and its 
 
 Money Order Office, 691 
 
 King's Bench, 700 
 
 taverns, 679 
 
 Penny and Twopenny post, 
 
 King's Bench Gazette, 708 
 
 Pimlico Garden, Bankside, 
 
 690, 691 
 
 Original Prison, 700 
 
 678 
 
 Post Magazine, 689 
 
 Poet in prison, 701 
 
 Pimlico Walk, Hoxton, 678 
 
 Postage envelope, by Mul- 
 
 Prince of Wales and 
 
 POLICE : 
 
 ready, 690 
 
 Justice Gascoigne, 700 
 
 Central Police, City, 681 
 
 Postage-rates, 689 
 
 Prison closed, 703 
 
 City Police, 683 
 
 Postage Stamps of all na- 
 
 Queen's Bench, 700 
 
 Dowling, Vincent, 681 
 
 tions, 690 
 
 Remarkable Persons con- 
 
 Force, Salaries, and Rate, 
 
 Revenue, 690 
 
 fined here, 701 
 
 682 
 
 POULTRY : 
 
 Riots of 1780, 700 
 
 Horse Patrol, 680 
 
 Coneyhope-lane, 691 
 
 Rules of the Bench, 702 
 
 Metropolitan Police Act, 681 
 
 Dilly and Hood, publishers, 
 
 SketcJies of St. George's 
 
 Original Police, 681 
 
 691 
 
 Fields, 701 
 
 Peel, Sir Robert, 682 
 
 Dunton, the bookseller, 691 
 
 Wat Tyler's attack, 700 
 
 Police Magistrates, 682 
 
 Lamb, Dr., the conjuror, 691 
 
 Westbury, Lord Chan- 
 
 Robberies on Thames, 683 
 
 S. Mildred's Church, 691 
 
 cellor, precis by, 703 
 
 System, 682, 683 
 
 Poultry Compter, 691 
 
 Wilkes imprisoned, 700 
 
 Thames Police, &c., 683 
 
 Taverns and Tokens, 691 
 
 Savoy Prison, 703
 
 8G4 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PRISONS continued. 
 
 REGENT STREET continued. 
 
 ROMAN LONDON : 
 
 Tothill Fields Bridewell: 
 
 County Fire Office, 710 
 
 Aldgate, 713 
 
 Colonel Despard, 704 
 
 Faubert's Riding Academy 
 
 Augusta, 711 
 
 Tower, the, 704 
 
 711 
 
 Bevis Marks, 713 
 
 Westminster Gatehouse, 37; 
 
 Foley House, 711 . 
 
 Billingsgate : hypocaust, 713 
 
 "Whitecross-street Prison,704 
 
 Gallery of Illustration, 308 
 
 Bishopsgate, 713 
 
 Wood-street Compter, 704 
 
 Junior United Service Club 
 
 Blackfriars, 713 
 
 
 254 
 
 Broad-street, 713 
 
 AUEENHITHE: 
 
 Langham Hotel, 711 
 
 Fine Pavement, 714 
 
 W Broken Wharf, 705 
 
 Macadamized Road, 710 
 
 Cannon-street, 714 
 
 Cornhithe, 705 
 
 Nash's Quadrant and Co- 
 
 Cheapside, 714 
 
 Hill, Thomas, drysalter, 705 
 
 lonnades, 710 
 
 Crutched Friars, 714 
 
 Lord Mayors, 705 
 
 Parthenon Club, 254 
 
 Dowgate, 714 
 
 JRipa Regince, 705 
 
 Polytechnic Institution, 711 
 
 Foster-lane : altar, 714 
 
 Saxon kithe, 705 
 
 Diving-bell, 711 
 
 Grey Friar?, 714 
 
 S. Michael's church vane,705 
 
 S. Philip's Chapel, 215 
 
 Houndsditch, 714 
 
 EAILWAY TERMINI : 
 
 Shop-fronts embellished, 710 
 
 S. George's-in-the-East, 714 
 
 'Blackwall, 705 
 
 Tenison's Chapel, 215 
 
 Islington, 715 
 
 Charing Cross, 706 
 
 ROTHERHITHE : 
 
 King William and Prince's- 
 
 Great Northern, 705 
 
 Fire, great, 718 
 
 streets, 715 
 
 Great Western, 705 
 
 Henry IV. lodged at, 718 
 
 Leadenhall-street : magnifi- 
 
 Hotels, 442, 443 
 
 Leake and Benbow, 718 
 
 cent pavement, 319 
 
 London, Dover, and Chat- 
 
 Lilly, dramatist, 718 
 
 Lombard- street, 531, 715 
 
 ham, 706 
 
 St. Mary's Church, Neckin- 
 
 Londinium, 711 
 
 Metropolitan, 706 
 
 ger, 187 
 
 Lyn-dun,orLlong-dinas, 711 
 
 North London, 706 
 
 Origin of, 718 
 
 London Stone, 533, 534 
 
 North Western, 705; Archi- 
 
 Prince Le Boo, 718 
 
 Lothbury, 715 
 
 tectural gateway, 705 ; 
 
 Redriffe, 718 
 
 Lower Thames-street, 717 
 
 Great Hall and Sculp- 
 
 Saxon origin, 718 
 
 Ludgate : sepulchral monu- 
 
 ture, 706 
 
 Swift's Captain Gulliver, 718 
 
 ment, 539, 715 
 
 Paxton, Sir Joseph, his 
 
 Thames Tunnel, 718, 779 
 
 S. Martin's-lane, 716 
 
 girdle railway, 707 
 
 ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS,719 
 
 S. Martin's-le-Grand, 716 
 
 Pneumatic, 706 
 
 ROYAL EXCHANGE, 719 
 
 Moorfields, 715 
 
 South Eastern, 706 
 
 ROYAL INSTITUTION : 
 
 Pavements, various, 716 
 
 South Western, 706 
 
 Banks, Cavendish, and Rum- 
 
 S. Pancras, 641, 716 
 
 Underground, 706 
 
 ford, 719 
 
 S. Paul's-churchyard, 716 
 
 
 Brande's Chemical Re- 
 
 Conyers and Wren, 716 
 
 "DANELAGH : 
 
 searches, 719 
 
 Roman coins, 718 
 
 ** Arne, Dr., musical com- 
 
 Davy's Discoveries, 719 
 
 Roman houses, 712 
 
 poser, 707 
 
 Faraday's Researches, 719 
 
 Roman stratum, 712 
 
 Buildings taken down, 708 
 
 Laboratory, 719 
 
 Royal Exchange, 326, 716 
 
 Bloomfield's visit, 708 
 
 Library, 464 
 
 Runic stone, 717 
 
 Capon, the scene-painter 707 
 
 Voltaic Battery, great, 719 
 
 Shad well, 716 
 
 Johnson, Dr., 707 
 
 Workshop of the Royal So- 
 
 Site of Roman London, 712 
 
 Ranelagh House, 707, 708 
 
 ciety, 719 
 
 Smith, Mr. Roach, his Mu- 
 
 Rotunda and Pavilion, 707 
 
 ROYAL SOCIETY : 
 
 seum, 718 
 
 Walpole's account, 707 
 
 Arundel House, 720 
 
 Southwark, 716 
 
 RECORDS, PUBLIC : 
 
 Burlington House, 720 
 
 Strand: Roman Bath, 716 
 
 Domesday Book, 710 
 
 Charter-book, 720, 721 
 
 Thames, River, 716 
 
 Lambarde, Keeper of the 
 
 Conversazioni and Presi- 
 
 Threadneedle-street, 717 
 
 Rolls, 708 
 
 dents, 720 
 
 Tower of London, 717 
 
 New Record Repository, 708 
 
 Cowley, Evelyn, & Petty, 720 
 
 Tower-hill, 717 
 
 Statue of Queen Victoria,709 
 
 Crane-courthouse, 296, 720 
 
 Upper Thames-street, 717 
 
 Palgrave, Sir F., on, 708 
 
 Invisible or Philosophical 
 
 Wall, 233236 
 
 Photo-zincographic fac-si- 
 
 Society, 719 
 
 Walbrook, 717 
 
 mile, 710 
 
 Medals, 720 
 
 Whitechapel, 717 
 
 Record Office, 706 ; Curiosi- 
 
 Museum, 600 
 
 
 ties, 710 
 
 Newton, Sir Isaac, relics of, 
 
 C AVOY, The : 
 
 Rolls Chapel, 709 
 
 720, 721 
 
 ^ Chapel Royal, 142 
 
 Romilly, Lord, Master of the 
 
 Origin of, 719 
 
 Churches : Dutch, French, 
 
 Rolls, his bust, 701 
 
 Oxford meetings, 729 
 
 High German, and Lu- 
 
 Searches, 709 
 
 Philosophical Transactions, 
 
 theran, 722 
 
 Victoria Tower, 710 
 
 720 
 
 John of Gaunt and Chaucer, 
 
 REGENT STREET : 
 
 Portraits, 720 
 
 721 
 
 All Souls Church, 347 
 
 Royal Charter, 720 
 
 John, King of France, 721 
 
 Argyll Rooms, 22 
 
 Royal Society Club, 256 
 
 Lancaster's palace, 721 
 
 Chess Tournament, 711 
 
 Wearing the Hat, 720 
 
 Wat Tyler, burnt by, 722 
 
 Club Chambers, 245 
 
 Wood-street and Gresham 
 
 French Protestant Churches 
 
 Cosmorama, 308 
 
 College, 720 
 
 (note), 722
 
 INDEX. 
 
 865 
 
 SCHOOLS, PUBLIC : 
 
 SIIOREDITCH continued. 
 
 SOMERSET HOUSE continued. 
 
 Charterhouse, 86 
 
 Roman village, 729 
 
 Chapel goods, 735 
 
 Christ's Hospital, 95 
 
 Soersditch, ancient family 
 
 Cowley and Waller, 736 
 
 City of London, 722 
 
 729 
 
 Gardens in 1720, 736 
 
 Corporation, Carpenter, 722 ; 
 
 SKINNER-STREET AND SNOW- 
 
 Godfrey, Sir Edmund Berry, 
 
 Tonbridge, 722 ; Dance 
 
 HILL : 
 
 murdered, 736 
 
 of Death, 723 ; Statue 
 
 Alderman Skinner, 731 
 
 John of Padua, architect, 
 
 of Carpenter, 723 
 
 Bunyan, John, 731 
 
 735 
 
 Mercers', 723 
 
 Cashman, the Sailor, 731 
 
 Masquerades, Court, 736 
 
 Eminent Scholars, 723 
 
 Churches, 152, 731 
 
 Protector Somerset, 735 
 
 Merchant Taylors, 723 
 
 Cock-lane Ghost, 732 
 
 Queen Henrietta Maria, 735 
 
 Eminent Scholars, 723 
 
 Holborn Valley, 731 
 
 Royal Academy, 736 
 
 Fellowships and Plays,723 
 
 Ladies' Charity-school, 731 
 
 State funerals of Monk and 
 
 S, Olave's and S. John's : 
 
 SMITHFIELD : 
 
 Cromwell, 736 
 
 Seal, Sites, History, 724 
 
 Bartholomew Fair, 32, 731 
 
 SOMERSET HOUSE : 
 
 S. Paul's School : 
 
 Elms, executions at, 732 
 
 Architecture and Sculpture, 
 
 Eminent Paulines,724,725 
 
 Jack Straw, 732 
 
 737 
 
 S. Saviour's, 725 
 
 Jousts and Tournaments,732 
 
 Bronze Group, by Bacon, 
 
 Westminster : 
 
 Martyrs and Burnings, 732 
 
 737 
 
 Chiswick House, at, 726 
 
 Ordeal Combats, 732 
 
 Chambers, Sir William, ar- 
 
 Census Alumnorum, 726 
 
 Poisoners, 732 
 
 chitect of, 736 
 
 Dormitory, 726 
 
 Public Walk, Race-course, 
 
 Government Offices, 737 
 
 Elizabeth, Queen, 725 
 
 and Live Market, 731 
 
 King's College, 737 
 
 Foundation, 725 
 
 Quintain, Sword, and Buck- 
 
 Nelson, Lord, anecdote of, 
 
 Hall, 726 
 
 ler, 731 
 
 738 
 
 Masters and Scholars, 
 
 Richard II., Walworth, and 
 
 Quadrangle, offices in, 737 
 
 eminent, 726 
 
 Wat Tyler, 731 
 
 Sculptors and Architects, 
 
 Pancake custom, 276 
 
 SMITHFIELD, EAST : 
 
 738 
 
 S. Peter's College, 723 
 
 Cage, Stocks, Sec., 732 
 
 Site and extent, 736 
 
 Plays, Latin, 726 
 
 Charles I. hunting, 732 
 
 Strand front, 737 
 
 Saxon remains, 726 
 
 Vineyard, 732 
 
 Terrace, 737 
 
 Trial of the Pix (note), 726 
 
 SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES : 
 
 Thames front, Cowley 's lines 
 
 SEWAGE OR DRAINAGE ; 
 
 Admission ceremony, 733 
 
 on, 737 
 
 Constructive details, 727 
 
 Folkes, Martin, first Presi- 
 
 Watch -face story, 738 
 
 First Commissioners of 
 
 dent, 733 
 
 West Wing, 738 
 
 Sewers, 727 
 
 Obligation Book, 733 
 
 SOUTH-SEA HOUSE : 
 
 Fleet Sewers, 348, 727 
 
 Paintings, Memorials, and 
 
 South-Sea Bubble, 738 
 
 High and Middle Levels, 727 
 
 Publications, 733 
 
 South-Sea Company, 738 
 
 Intercepting Plan, 727 
 
 Wanley, Humphrey, 733 
 
 South-Sea Stock, 739 
 
 Main Drainage, new, 727 
 
 SOCIETY OF ARTS : 
 
 Swift and Pope, satires of, 
 
 SHERIFFS : 
 
 Art-Manufactures, 734 
 
 739 
 
 Costumes, 729 
 
 Awards, early, 733 
 
 Tom of Ten Thousand, 739 
 
 Drinking to Sheriffs, 729 
 
 Barry's Paintings, 733 
 
 SOUTH WARE : 
 
 Fund and Fines, 728, 729 
 
 First Exhibition, 733 
 
 Alleyn, Edward, 741 
 
 Hebrew Sheriff-, 729 
 
 First Meeting, 733 
 
 Alleyn's Almshouses, 742 
 
 Hoare, Sheriff, his Journal, 
 
 Goldsmith, Oliver, 733 
 
 Artists in glass, 739 
 
 729 
 
 Hope, Thomas, and Chan- 
 
 Bankside, its bear-gardens, 
 
 Income and cost, 728 
 
 trey, the sculptor, 734 
 
 stews, and theatres, 741 
 
 London and Middlesex, 728 
 
 Library, 525 
 
 Blackman-street, 742 
 
 Michaelmas-day, 729 
 
 Museum, 603 
 
 Borough, the, 740 
 
 Letter, Sheriff Phillips's, 297 
 
 Origin of, 733 
 
 Bridge House and Yard, 
 
 Origin of the Office, 728 
 
 Premiums and Bounties, 734 
 
 740 ^v^ 
 
 Presentation of, 728 
 
 Presidents, 733 
 
 Burnt by William I., 739 
 
 Slingsby Bethel, 729 
 
 Swiney Bequest, 734 
 
 Deadman's-place, 742 
 
 State, Shrievalty, 728 
 
 SOHO: 
 
 Elizabethan houses, 742 
 
 SIIOREDITCII : 
 
 Berwick-street, 735 
 
 Etymologies, 97 in number, 
 
 Almshomes and Halls, 730 
 
 Carlisle House and street, 
 
 739 
 
 Barnwel!, George, and Mill- 
 
 734 
 
 Fair, 739 
 
 wood, 730 
 
 Compton-street, 736 
 
 Falcon Tavern, 741 
 
 Churchyard's ballad, 730 
 
 Dean-street, 735 
 
 Ferry and Fortification, 73 S 
 
 College Youths, 730 
 
 Gerard-street, 735 
 
 Fort and Bulwarks, 740 
 
 'Curtain Theatre and Road, 
 
 Greek and Church streets, 
 
 Globe Theatre, site of, 741 
 
 730 
 
 735 
 
 Horselydown, 740 
 
 Holy well-In, and Mount, 730 
 
 Lion Brewery, 734 
 
 Inns and Taverns, 456, 740 
 
 Legend of Jane Shore, 729 
 
 Macclesfleld-street, 735 
 
 Jack Cade and Wyat, 739, 
 
 S. Leonard's Church, 720 Origin of Soho, 734 
 
 740 
 
 Lovel, Sir Thomas, 730 
 
 SOMERSET HOUSE, OLD : 
 
 Long Southwark, 740 
 
 Nunnery, 730 
 
 Chapel, by Inigo Jones, and 
 
 Manors, 740 
 
 Quiet Poor, 731 
 
 Capuchin Convent, 735 
 
 S. Margaret's Hill, 740 
 
 3 E
 
 866 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 SOUTHWARK continued. 
 
 SQUARES continued. 
 
 STATE COACHES: 
 
 8. Mary Overie and S. Sa- 
 
 Belgrave,Chester and Eaton, 
 
 Catton, painter, 756 
 
 vioui-'s Church, 199 202, 
 
 737 
 
 Chambers, Sir W., 754 
 
 740, 741 
 
 Berkeley : 
 
 Charles I.'s, 754 
 
 Mints for Coinage, 740 
 
 Lansdownellouse; Horace 
 
 Cipriani, painter, 755 
 
 Montague-close and House, 
 
 Walpole died, 747 
 
 Coronation coach, 754 
 
 > 741 
 
 Bloomsbury : 
 
 Cost of the Queen's Coach, 
 
 Picture of Horselydown, at 
 
 Bedford House ; Lord 
 
 755 
 
 Hatfield House, 740 
 
 Mansfield's; Statue of 
 
 Dance, pa r nter, 756 
 
 Rochester House and Park, 
 
 C. J. Fox, 747 
 
 Hogarth's City Coach, 756 
 
 742 
 
 Bridgewater, 747 
 
 Lord Mayor's, cost of, 765 ; 
 
 ; Roman remains, 739 
 
 Brunswick, Mecklenburgh, 
 
 painting, 755 
 
 1 Rose-alley and Globe-alley, 
 
 and Torrington, 748 
 
 Queen Anne's, 754 
 
 741 
 
 Cavendish : 
 
 Queen Elizabeth's, 754 
 
 Shakspeare bust, sculptor of, 
 
 Grand Duke of Chandos ; 
 
 Speaker's, 766 ; carvings and 
 
 741 
 
 Harcourt House; Bronze 
 
 paintings, 756 
 
 Shakspeare, Edmund, bu- 
 
 Statues, 748 
 
 State Harness, 754 
 
 | ried, 741 
 
 Charterhouse, 748 
 
 Thornhill, Sir James, 
 
 Southwark Arms, 742 
 
 Covent Garden, 292, 296 
 
 painter, 754 
 
 Subway in Souihwark, 742 
 
 Devonshire, 748 
 
 Wilton, carver, 754 
 
 Suffolk House and Eran- 
 
 Euston, 748 
 
 STATUES : 
 
 donne's-place, 741 
 
 Finsbury, 749 
 
 See Lists with sites and 
 
 Tokens, Southwark, 742 
 
 Fitzroy, 749 
 
 names of sculptors at pp. 757 
 
 Winchester Palace, 742 
 
 Golden, 749 
 
 760. The following are the 
 
 SOCTHWARK FAIR; 
 
 Gordon : 
 
 more remarkable : 
 
 Evelyn and Pepys, 743 
 
 First locomotive, 749 
 
 Achilles, Hyde Park, 757 
 
 Grant by Edward VI., 743 
 
 Gough : 
 
 Charles I., Charing Gross: 
 
 Proclaimed by the Lord 
 
 Dr. Johnson's house, 749 
 
 Walpole's account; d'Ar- 
 
 Mayor, 743 
 
 Grosvenor, 749 
 
 chenholz ; P. Cunning- 
 
 Sheriff Hoare's account, 743 
 
 Hanover : 
 
 ham -, portions stolen ; 
 
 Sights and Shows, 743 
 
 Statue of Pitt, 750 
 
 pedestal by Marshall, 
 
 SPITALFIKLDS : 
 
 Haydon, 749 
 
 artistic merit of, 757 
 
 Betlmal Green, 743, 744 
 
 S. James's : 
 
 Corara, Capt., by Calder 
 
 Boiingbroke, Lord, 745 
 
 Notable residents, 750 
 
 Marshall, 758 
 
 Christchurch, 157 
 
 Leicester, 511 515 
 
 Franklin, Sir John, by 
 
 Crispin-street Mathematical 
 
 Lincoln's-inn-fields,627-529 
 
 Noble : 
 
 Society, 745 
 
 Lowndes, 750 
 
 Bas-reliefs; likeness, 758 
 
 Culpepper, the herbalist, 744 
 
 Manchester, 751 
 
 George IV., by Chantrey, 
 
 Edict of Nantes, 744 
 
 Myddelton, 751 
 
 758 
 
 Fair in Spitalfields, 744 
 
 Portman : 
 
 Herbert, Lord, by Foley : 
 
 Lolesworth, a Roman ceme- 
 
 Montague House, 751 
 
 Bas-reliefs on ped est al, 7 5 8 
 
 tery, 743 
 
 Prince's (two), 751 
 
 Havelock, Sir Henry, by 
 
 Pauperism of the weavers, 
 
 Quadrates or Squares, 747 
 
 Behnes : 
 
 744 
 
 Queen, Bloomsbury, 751 
 
 Inscriptions, 759 
 
 Priory and Hospital of St. 
 
 Queen, Westminster, 751 
 
 James II., by Gibbons : 
 
 Mary Spittle, 743 
 
 Red Lion : 
 
 Error respecting, 759 
 
 Pulpit Cross and Spittle 
 
 Cromwell's remains, 751 
 
 Myddelton, Sir Hugh, by 
 
 Sermons, 743 
 
 Russell : 
 
 Thomas : 
 
 Silks and velvets, 744 
 
 Bedford House and statue, 
 
 Costume of the period ; 
 
 Sisters of Charity, 745 
 
 752 
 
 drinking fountains, 
 
 / Stone Coffins found, 743 
 
 Salisbury, 752 
 
 759 
 
 Weavers' houses, 745 
 
 Soho: 
 
 Nelson, Lord, by Baily : 
 
 Weavers and Masters, 744 
 
 Monmouth House ; Mrs. 
 
 Bronze lions at base of 
 
 SPRING GARDEN : 
 
 Cornelys", Sir Joseph 
 
 pedestal, by Landseer, 
 
 Berkeley House, 746 
 
 Banks, Alderman Beck- 
 
 759 
 
 Bo A ling Green, Fountain, 
 
 ford ; Statue and Foun- 
 
 Richard Coeur de Lion, by 
 
 and Ordinary, 745 
 
 tain, 752 
 
 Marochetti, 759 
 
 Centlivre, Mrs., 746 
 
 Tavistock : 
 
 Wellington, Duke of, by 
 
 Milton resided, 746 
 
 Francis Baily; weighing 
 
 M. C. and J. Wyatt : 
 
 New Spring Gardens, 745, 
 
 the Earth, 753 
 
 Origin and cost ; raising. 
 
 746 
 
 Tavistock-place, 753 
 
 760 
 
 Outer Spring Garden, and 
 
 Trafalgar: 
 
 STRAND : 
 
 Sir P. Warwick, 746 
 
 Nelson column ; Statues 
 
 Ackermann, the printseller; 
 
 , Rupert, Prince, death of, 746 
 
 of George IV., Napier, 
 
 Fountain Tavern, and 
 
 Wiglpy's Rooms, 746 
 
 and Havelock; Green- 
 
 Ries's Divan, 763 
 
 SQUARES : 
 
 land Whale, 753 
 
 Adelphi, 1 : 
 
 Bedford, 747 
 
 Vincent, 753 
 
 Durham-place; Sir Walter 
 
 Lords Loughborough and 
 
 Wellclose, 753 
 
 Raleigh ; Coutts's Bank, 
 
 Eldon. 747 
 
 Woburn, 754 
 
 763
 
 INDEX. 
 
 867 
 
 STRAND- co ntinned. 
 
 STRAND continued. STRAND continued-. 
 
 AdelpM Theatre, 769 
 
 Foregate and Clement's- 
 
 Thames' bank Mansions, 760 
 
 Anderson's -Scots Pills, 
 
 lane: 
 
 Tonson, Millar, and Cadell, 
 
 764 
 
 Sir John Trevor, 767 
 
 booksellers, 764 
 
 Arundel House : 
 
 Fountain-court : 
 
 Turk'sHeadCoffee-house,764 
 
 Marbles, Statues, and pic- 
 
 Blake, the painter, 763 
 
 View in 1543, 760 
 
 ture galleries; Old Parr; 
 
 George's and Grecian Coffee- 
 
 Wellington-street, N : 
 
 Hollar's views, 764, 765 
 
 houses, 264 
 
 Lyceum Theatre, 768 
 
 Arundel-street : 
 
 Golden Cross Hotel, 769 
 
 White Swan Tavern : 
 
 Gay's Trivia; Crown and 
 
 Gothic Cross, by E. 51. 
 
 Dr. King's Art oj Cookery , 
 
 Anchor Tavern and 
 
 Barry, A.R.A., 761 
 
 Token, 768 
 
 WhittingtonClub; Aca- 
 
 Hackney-coach Stand, first, 
 
 Wych-street : 
 
 demy of Ancient Music, 
 
 andS. Mary's Church, 768 
 
 New Inn, 473 
 
 765 
 
 Hermitage and Hospital at 
 
 York Buildings : 
 
 Beaufort-buildings : 
 
 Charing, 760 
 
 Sea-water Baths, Water- 
 
 Carlisle, Bedford, Wor- 
 
 Holy well-street and " holy 
 
 works, and Fire-engine, 
 
 cester, and Beaufort 
 
 spring ;" old houses and 
 
 762 
 
 House,763; Hill.Aaron, 
 
 Signs ; Lyon's Inn, 767 
 
 York House and Sir Nicholas 
 
 born ; Lillie, Perry, and 
 
 Hungerford, 761 
 
 Bacon and Lord Chancel- 
 
 Rimmel, perfumers, 763 
 
 King's College Gateway, 276 
 
 lor Bacon, 761 ; pictures 
 
 Ben Jonson ; Nelson, 761 
 
 Lowther Arcade, 20 
 
 and sculptures ; Villiers, 
 
 Boswell court and its cele- 
 
 Maiden-lane : 
 
 Duke of Buckingham ; 
 
 brities, 767 
 
 Marvell, Swift, and Vol- 
 
 Water-gate, 761, 762 
 
 Bucking-ham-street : 
 
 taire ; Turner, the 
 
 
 Pepys and Peter the Great; 
 
 painter, born ; Cyder 
 
 TATTERSALL'S : 
 
 Etty, the painter, 762 
 
 Cellar and Porson, 769 
 
 -*- Derby winners, 770 
 
 Butcher-row: 
 
 Mawe and Tennant, minera- 
 
 Established, 1766, 769 
 
 Count Beaumont ; Gun- 
 
 logists, 764 
 
 Horses and Hounds, 770 
 
 powder Plot ; Nat Lee ; 
 
 Maypole in the Strand, 768 
 
 Horses sold, 770 
 
 Alderman Pickett, 767 
 
 Milford-lane: 
 
 Jockey Club, 770 
 
 Canaletti's view, 760 
 
 Ford and Windmill ; 
 
 New, 491 
 
 Canary House, 768 
 
 Baker, the chronicler; 
 
 Prince of Wales, 770 
 
 Catherine-street : 
 
 Woodfalls, printers, 766 
 
 Tattersall, Richard, 769 
 
 New Exeter Change, and 
 
 New Court Chapel, 767 
 
 TELEGRAPHS, ELECTRIC : 
 
 Strand Music Hall, 768 
 
 Norfolk-street : 
 
 Admiralty Semaphores, 771 
 
 Cecil-street : 
 
 Mountfort and Lord Mo- 
 
 Call-wire, Houses of Parlia- 
 
 Great Salisbury House, 
 
 bun ; Penn and Peter 
 
 ment, 771 
 
 763 
 
 the Great ; Ireland's 
 
 Central Office, Lothbury,770 
 
 Charing Cross Hospital, 436 
 
 Shakspeare Forgeries ; 
 
 Cook and Wheatstone's Pa- 
 
 Circulating Library, the first, 
 
 Parr and Warton, 76 
 
 tents, 770 
 
 764 
 
 Northumberland House, 554 
 
 Exchange Newa, 771 
 
 S. Clement's Danes, 760 
 
 One Bell Stables and Dor- 
 
 Greenwich Time, 771 
 
 S. Clement's Vestry Hall, 
 
 chester coach, 767 
 
 Founders' Court, 770 
 
 and Kent's picture, 767 
 
 Open fields, north, 760 
 
 " Nerves of London," 771 
 
 Craven-street : 
 
 Palsgrave-place : 
 
 Special Telegraphy, 771 
 
 Dr. Franklin and James 
 
 Heycock's Ordinary, 76 
 
 Terminus Wires, 771 
 
 Smith, 761 
 
 Queen's Head public-house 
 
 TEMPLE, INNER AND MID- 
 
 Crockford's Bulk-shop, 766 
 
 and Old Parr, 769 
 
 DLE, 461464 
 
 Deville, the phrenologist, 
 
 Salisbury-street: 
 
 TEMPLE BAB: 
 
 and Nollekens, 76'j 
 
 Salisbury House ; Hobbes, 
 
 CeremonyonRoyal Visits, 773 
 
 Doily's Warehouse and 
 
 Partridge, and Swift, 763 
 
 Gates, 773 
 
 Wimbledon House, 768 
 
 Savoy-steps ; Savoy-street, 
 
 Heads and Limbs of Traitors, 
 
 Drury-court : 
 
 142, 722 
 
 on, 772 
 
 Shrievalty Tenurecustom, 
 
 Ship-yard : 
 
 Layer's Head, 772 
 
 and Clarges, the farrier, 
 
 Ashmole and Faithorne; 
 
 Marriage, Royal, 773 
 
 508, 768 
 
 Tokens, 766 
 
 Original Bar, 772 
 
 ElectricTime Signal Ball,769 
 
 Snow, the banker, lines by 
 
 Statues Charles I. and II., 
 
 Essex-street and Devereux- 
 
 Gay, 766 
 
 James I. and Queen, 772 
 
 court and Outer Temple ; 
 
 Somerset House, 735 
 
 Temple Bar, the City Gol- 
 
 Exeter, Paget, Norfolk, 
 
 Somerset-place, Savoy, and 
 
 gotlia, 772 
 
 Leicester, and Essex 
 
 Durham House, 760 
 
 Wellington, Duke of, his 
 
 House, Water-gate ; Essex 
 
 Southampton-street : 
 
 Funeral, 773 
 
 Head Tavern, 766 
 
 Bedford House and bar- 
 
 Wren's Bar, 772 
 
 Exeter Change, 335, 768 
 
 gate, 769 
 
 THAMES EMBANKMENT: 
 
 Exeter Hall, 334 
 
 Strand-lane, 764 
 
 Bazalgette's plan, 773 
 
 Exeter-street : 
 
 Strand Tavern : 
 
 Construction and details,774 
 
 Dr. Johnson ; his resi- 
 
 Denham's frolic, 767 
 
 Metropolitan Board of 
 
 dences, 768 
 
 Strand Theatre and Bar- 
 
 Works, 773 
 
 First paved, 760 
 
 ker's Panorama, 764 
 
 Pieraand Landing steps,? 7 1
 
 868 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 THAMES EMBANKMENT cont 
 Plans by Wren, Trench, and 
 
 Martin, 773 
 
 Roman and British, 773 
 Sections (three), 774 
 Sewer and Subways, 774 
 Temple Gardens and Black- 
 
 i'riars Bridge, 774 
 Westminster Bridge and 
 
 Vauxhall, 774 
 THAMES RIVER : 
 Archbishops' barges, 775 
 Admiralty and Trinity 
 
 House, 777 
 
 Angling- at Queenhithe, 776 
 Barge of Richard II., 775 
 Bridges. 65 75 
 Companies' Barges, 775 
 Conservancy, 777 
 Course and Name, 774 
 Docks, 303 312 
 Dogget's Coat and Badge, 
 
 400, 775 
 
 Dolphins and Whales, 777 
 Fishermen and Old Swan, 
 
 776 
 
 Folly on the Thames, 775 
 Frosts and Frost Fairs, 360 
 
 363 
 
 Gower, the poet, 775 
 Isle of Dogs, 475 
 Lampreys, immense catch 
 
 of, 776 
 
 Landing-places, old, 775 
 Like a Whale, 774 
 " Maria Wood " barge, 776 
 Mayor as Bailiff, 777 
 More, Sir T., his barge, 775 
 Nelson's Funeral, 776 
 Old London Bridge, 774 
 Port of London, 685687 
 Rowing, boat-racing, and 
 
 yachting, 775 
 Salmon, great draughts of, 
 
 777 
 
 Salmon tithe, 776 
 Sports and Pageants, 775 
 State Barges, 775 
 State Funerals, 776 
 Steam Navigation, 777 
 Swans kept, 776 
 Taylor, the Water-poet, 775 
 Thames jet, by Morice, 776 
 Thames watermen, 775 
 . Tide, 774 
 
 Water impure, and disin- 
 fectants, 777 
 Water Supply, 776 
 Waterworks.LondonBridge, 
 
 67 
 
 Whitebait, 57, 58 
 Wolsey's barge, 775 
 THAMES-STREET, LOWER : 
 Billingsgate, 54 
 Coal Exchange, 329 
 Custom House, 305, 306 
 Fish-street-hill and Monu- 
 ment, 779 
 Galley-quay, 779 
 
 THAMES STREET continued. 
 
 Petty Wales, 779 
 
 Pudding-lane and the Great 
 
 Fire, 779 
 THAMES STREET, UPPER : 
 
 Athelstan's palace, 778 
 
 Boss, Whittington's, 778 
 
 Castle Baynard Wharf, 778 
 
 City Flour Mill, 778 
 
 Coldharbour and Sir John 
 Poultney, 778 
 
 Dowgate ; Sir Francis 
 Drake's mansion, 778 
 
 Harvey, Dr. William, 778 
 
 Merchant Taylors' School, 
 725 
 
 Old Signs, 779 
 
 Old Swan House ; Richard 
 Thornton, the millionaire, 
 778 
 
 Old Swan Stairs, 778 
 
 Old Wine Shades, 778 
 
 Puddle Dock, 777 
 
 Picard in the Vintry, 779 
 
 Queenhithe, 704 
 
 Rectory House, Martin's- 
 lane, 779 
 
 Steelyard, 778 
 THAMES TDNNEL ; 
 
 Brunei's plan, 779 
 
 Completion Brunei 
 knighted, 780 
 
 Cost, Dimensions, and Me- 
 dal, 780 
 
 Cylinder and Shield, 779 
 
 Early Attempts, 779 
 
 Irruptions of the river, 779 
 
 Progress of, 779 
 
 Subscriptions and Loan, 
 780 
 
 Thames Tunnel fair, 780 
 THEATRES : 
 
 Adelphi, 780 
 
 Astley's Amphitheatre : 
 Astley 's nineteen theatres, 
 780 ; Ducrow, 781 
 
 Bankside Theatres : 
 
 Globe licensed to Shak- 
 speare, 781 ; burnt and 
 rebuilt ; site, 781 
 Hope and Rose, 781 
 Paris Garden Circus, 781 
 Rose and Globe alleys,? 81 
 Swan, 781 
 
 Blackfriars : 
 
 Burbage, Shakspeare, and 
 Alleyn, 781 
 
 Britannia, and the Rose- 
 mary Branch, 781 
 
 Brunswick and Royalty, 781 
 
 City of London, 782 
 
 City, Milton-street, 782 
 
 Cockpit or Phoenix, 782 
 
 Covent Garden (three 
 theatres), 782 
 
 Curtain Theatre, Holywell, 
 783 
 
 Drury-lane (three theatres), 
 783 
 
 T HE ATRES continued. 
 
 Dorset Gardens, Lady Da- 
 
 venant's, 784 
 Duke's Theatre, 687, 784 
 Efflnghara Theatre, 784 
 Fortune Henslowe and 
 
 Alleyn's, 784 
 Garrick, Goodman's Fields, 
 
 784 
 
 Gibbon's Court, 558 
 Goodman's Fields, 784 
 Grecian, City-road, 784 
 Haymarket Theatre : 
 
 "Little Theatre ;" rebuilt 
 by Nash ; Beggar's 
 Opera, Fielding, Foote, 
 and the Colmans ; 
 Webster and Buck- 
 stone, 784, 785 
 Holborn Amphitheatre, 785 
 Holborn Theatre, 785 
 S. James's Theatre, 785 
 Lyceum and English Opera- 
 house, 785 
 Marionette, 785 
 Marylebone, 785 
 Newington Butts, 785 
 Nursery in Golding lane and 
 
 Hatton Garden, 786 
 Olympic Theatre : 
 
 Astley, Elliston, and Ves- 
 
 tris, 7.86 
 Opera Houses, Italian : 
 
 Her Majesty's, 788 
 
 Royal Italian, 789 
 Theatres, London licensed, 
 
 789 
 
 Pantheon, 639 
 Pavilion, 786 
 Princess', Charles Kean, 
 
 786 
 Queen's (Prince of Wales), 
 
 786 
 
 Queen's, Long Acre, 787 
 Red Bull, Clerkenwell, 787 
 Royalty, 787 
 Sadler's Wells, 787 
 Salisbury Court, 787 
 Sans Souci (two), 787 
 Standard, 787 
 Strand Theatre, 788 
 " The Theatre," 788 
 Victoria (Coburg), 788 
 Whitefriars, 788 
 THREADNEEDLE-STREET : 
 Crown Tavern, 789 
 Hall of Commerce, 789 
 Merchant Taylors' Hall, 789 
 Moon, Alderman, 789 
 Name, 789 
 Sidney, Sir W., 789 
 South Sea House, 738 
 TOKENS : 
 
 British Museum, 790 
 Charles II., reign, 790 
 Elizabethan, 789 
 London Traders' and Trades 
 
 mens' Token, 790 
 Tokenhouse-yard, 790
 
 INDEX. 
 
 869 
 
 TOTTENHAM-COURT-ROAD : 
 
 TOWEH OF LONDON con- 
 
 THF.ASURY AND OTHER GO- 
 
 Adam and Eve, 790 
 
 tinued. 
 
 VERNMENT OFFICES con- 
 
 Capper's Farm, 790 
 
 " Little Ease" torture cham- 
 
 tinued. 
 
 Mansion of William de 
 
 ber, 798 
 
 India Office, Colonial Office, 
 
 Totenhall, 790 
 
 Locking up the Tower, 800 
 
 and Navy Office, New, 807 
 
 Old Court-house, 790 
 
 Martin Tower: 
 
 Treasury Offices : 
 
 Whitefield's Chapel, 790 
 
 Anne Boleyn's prison- 
 
 Htirley, Earl of Oxford, 
 
 TOWER HILL: 
 
 lodging, 797 
 
 assassinated, 807 
 
 Czar's Head, and Peter the 
 
 Moat or Diteh, 794 
 
 Tennis-court, 607 
 
 Great, 791 
 
 Ordnance Office and Store- 
 
 Treasury relics, 807 
 
 Execution, place of: 
 
 houses, 798 
 
 Treasury throne, 807 
 
 Notable Persons executed, 
 
 Place of execution, Tower- 
 
 Wellesley, Sir Arthur, and 
 
 791 
 
 green, 798 
 
 Lord Nelson, 807 
 
 Felton, the assassin, 791 
 
 Portcullis, genuine, 798 
 
 Whitehall front, 806 
 
 Postern-row, 791 
 
 Prisoners' Fees, 800 
 
 York House, 806 
 
 Raleigh, Lady, 791 
 
 Queen Elizabeth's Armoury, 
 
 TRINITY HOUSE: 
 
 Scaffolds for executions, 790 
 
 799 
 
 Bustb and Paintings, 808 
 
 Tower Liberties' perambu- 
 
 Raleigh's imprisonments : 
 
 Great Fire of 1666, 808 
 
 lation, 791 
 
 History of the World; 
 
 Human remains found, 809 
 
 Tower Dock, 791 
 
 still-house ; execution of 
 
 Guild of Mariners, 808 
 
 TOWER OF LONDON : 
 
 Raleigh, 796, 797 
 
 Lighthouses, Sea-marks, Pi- 
 
 Area within the Walls, 791 
 
 Receipts given for Prisoners, 
 
 lots, &c., 808 
 
 Admission to view, 806 
 
 794 
 
 Master of Corporation, 808 
 
 Ante-room : 
 
 Record Tower, 797 
 
 Museum, 805 
 
 Curiosities, ancient gems, 
 
 Regalia or Crown Jewels : 
 
 State Banquet, annual, 808 
 
 &c., 803, 804 
 
 Baptismal Font, 806 
 
 Trinity Monday procession, 
 
 Armouries : 
 
 Jewel-house, New, 804 
 
 808 
 
 Hor-e Armoury, 802 
 
 Prince of Wales's Crown, 
 
 TYBURN AND " TYBURN 
 
 Queen Elizabeth's, 802 
 
 805 
 
 TREE," 809 
 
 Beauchamp or Cobham 
 
 Queen Consort's Crown, 
 
 Elms, the, and first execu- 
 
 Tower, and its memorials, 
 
 805 
 
 tion, 808 
 
 795, 796 
 
 Queen's State Crown, 804 
 
 Executions, Memorable, at 
 
 Bloody Tower: 
 
 Queen's Diadem, 805 
 
 Tyburn, 810 
 
 The two Prince?, 798 
 
 Regalia, New, 804 
 
 Queen Henrietta Maria, 809 
 
 Broad Arrow Tower : 
 
 Salt-cellar, gold, 805 
 
 Sites of the gallows, 809 
 
 Lady Jane Grey, 797 
 
 Roman and Saxon fortresses, 
 
 Tybourn and Westbourn, 
 
 Chapel of S. John, 799 
 
 792 
 
 808 
 
 Chapel of S. Peter, 198 
 
 Salt Tower : 
 
 Tyburn Ticket, 809 
 
 Charles of Orleans : 
 
 Draper of Bristol, 797 
 
 Tyburn Turnpike, sketched 
 
 Oldest view of the Tower, 
 
 Saluting Battery and 
 
 by Capon, 810 
 
 800 
 
 "Tower Guns," 795 
 
 
 Constable of the Tower: 
 
 Scales, Lord, besieged, 792 
 
 TTNrVERSITY OF LON- 
 
 Lieutenant, Deputy Lieu- 
 
 Sceptres, Swords, and Brace- 
 
 DON: 
 
 tenant, and Tower 
 
 lets, 805 
 
 Burlington Gardens and 
 
 Major, 800 
 
 Sovereigns, their additions, 
 
 Somerset House, 810 
 
 Coronation Plate, &c., 806 
 
 coutts, and imprison- 
 
 
 Coronation processions, 793 
 
 ments, 792, 793 
 
 YAUXHALL GARDENS: 
 
 Council-chamber, and Ban- 
 
 State Prison Room : 
 
 Arne, Dr., musical com- 
 
 queting-room, 799 
 
 Lady Jane Grey, 796 
 
 poser, 812 
 
 Courts of Justice held here, 
 
 Tower Palatine, 792 
 
 Artificial Ruins, 813 
 
 793 
 
 Towers, various, 794 
 
 Balloon Ascents, 814 
 
 Devereux Tower rebuilt, 
 
 Traditional Origin, 791 
 
 Battle of Waterloo Fete, 813 
 
 797 
 
 Traitors' Gate, 794 
 
 Bish, Gye, and Hughes, 813 
 
 Domestic apartments taken 
 
 View in 1563, 793 
 
 Cheesecakes and Syllabubs, 
 
 down, 793, 794 
 
 Waterloo Barracks, 798 
 
 812 
 
 Flint, Bowyer and Brick 
 
 White Tower, and its his- 
 
 Church and School, 815 
 
 Tower, 797 
 
 tory, 799 
 
 Copped or Copt Hall, 811 
 
 Fortifications repaired, 794 
 
 Yeoman Warders, 800 
 
 Conspirators' Vault, 811 
 
 Grand Storehouse for Arms, 
 
 TOWER ROYAL: 
 
 Evelyn and Pepys, 811,812 
 
 794 
 
 Queen's Wardrobe, 806 
 
 Fielding, Sir John, 813 
 
 Great Fire in 1548, 792 
 
 Roman Remains, 806 
 
 Finally closed, 814 
 
 Grey, Lady Jane, and Prin- 
 
 TREASURY AND OTHER GO- 
 
 Fireworks, 814, 815 
 
 cess Elizabeth, 792 
 
 VERNMENT OFFICES: 
 
 Fulke de Breaute* and 
 
 Henry VIII. and his wives, 
 
 Admiralty, 2 
 
 Faukeshall, 811 
 
 792 
 
 Cockpit, the, 807 
 
 Gold Ticket, 812 
 
 Imprisonments, 800 
 
 Downing-street : 
 
 Goldsmith's Vauxhall, 813 
 
 Keep, or White Tower, 792 
 
 Notable residents, 807 
 
 Guy Fawkes' Tradition, 811 
 
 Lion Tower and Menagerie, 
 
 Foreign Office, New, 807 
 
 Hogarth's paintings, 812 
 
 794 
 
 Horse Guards, 434 
 
 La Sale Faukes, 811
 
 870 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 VAUXHALL GARDENS con- 
 
 WAX-WORK Snows contind. 
 
 VESTMINSTER continued. 
 
 tinued. 
 
 PlayoftheDeadVolks>,818 
 
 Queen-square, 751 
 
 Morland, Sir Samuel, 811 
 
 Ragged Regiment, 818 
 
 Rochester-row, 825 
 
 Music composed for, 814 
 
 Nollekens on, 819 
 
 S. Anne's-lane, 818 
 
 New Spring Gardens laid 
 
 Walpole describes, 818 
 
 S. Margaret's Church, 821 
 
 out, 811 
 
 WESTMINSTER : 
 
 Sanctuary, Broad and 
 
 Orchestra, Gothic, 814 
 
 Abingdon-street, 818 
 
 Little : 
 
 Plan of the Gardens, 814 
 
 Almonry, 818 
 
 Churches ; National So- 
 
 Rvlotto alfresco, 812 
 
 Artillery-place, 821 
 
 ciety's Schools ; Seekers 
 
 Roman fort and pottery, 812 
 
 Barton and Cowley-streets, 
 
 of Sanctuary ; West- 
 
 Sale of Pictures by Hogarth 
 
 822 
 
 minsterHonpital ; West- 
 
 and Hayruan, 814 
 
 Broadway, Christchurch,! 56 
 
 minsters (Old) Memo- 
 
 Saqui on the Rope, 814 
 
 Canon-row : 
 
 rial, 825, 826 
 
 Singers, early, 812 
 
 Notable residents ; Lady 
 
 Thorney Island, 820, 821 
 
 Statues of Handel and 
 
 Wheler and Charles I., 
 
 Tothill Fields : 
 
 Milton, by Roubiliac, 812 
 
 822 
 
 Origin of Name ; Wagers 
 
 Tom Brown and Wycherley, 
 
 Charles-street : 
 
 of Battle ; " Seven 
 
 812 
 
 Ignatius Sancho, 822 
 
 Chimneys ;" S. Ed- 
 
 Tyers's lease, 812 
 
 Dean's-yard : 
 
 ward's Fair ; Bear-gar- 
 
 View in 1751, 813 
 
 Ashburnham House, 444 
 
 den ; Bridewell; Duels ; 
 
 Walpole and Fielding, 813 
 
 Westminster echolars,822 
 
 Scotch Prisoners, 826 
 
 
 Domesday Book, 821 
 
 Tot hill-street : 
 
 V ALB ROOK: 
 
 Duke-street : 
 
 Amory, Betterton, and 
 
 Bothaw, or Boat-haw, 
 
 Jeffreys, Lord, his man- 
 
 Southerne; Cock public- 
 
 815 
 
 sion ; chapel ; notable 
 
 house ; Orchard-street, 
 
 Course of the stream, 815 
 
 resident?, 822 
 
 826 
 
 " Old Barge," 815 
 
 Edgar's Charter, 820 
 
 Tufton-street, 826 
 
 Roman remains, 815 
 
 Elizabethan, 821 
 
 Victoria-street : 
 
 S. Stephen's Church, 204 
 
 Fitzstephen's, 821 
 
 Commenced 1845, 826 
 
 WAPPING : 
 
 Fludyer-street : 
 
 Churches, 826, 827 
 
 Ames and Day, 816 
 
 Axe-yard andPepys, 823 
 
 Vine-street : 
 
 Execution Dock, 815 
 
 Gardener's-lane : 
 
 Vineyard and Bowling- 
 
 Great Fires, 816 
 
 Hollar, the engraver, 823 
 
 green; Colonel Blood, 
 
 Jeffreys, Lord Chancellor, 
 
 Geological note, 821 
 
 827 
 
 detected, 816 
 
 Great George-street : 
 
 Westminster Abbey : 
 
 Origin of Wapping, 816 
 
 Storey's Gate ; Reform 
 
 Dean and Chapter, 827 
 
 Radcliffe, Sir Hugh VVil- 
 
 Club ; Sir Matthew 
 
 Wood-street : 
 
 loughby, 816 
 
 Wood, 823 
 
 Carter, the antiquary ; 
 
 Stag-hunt. 816 
 
 Heraldic Signs, 821 
 
 North-street ; Elliston, 
 
 Taverns, old, 816 
 
 Horseferry, 433 
 
 comedian, 827 
 
 WATLING-STREET : 
 
 James-street, 479, 823 
 
 Woolstaple : 
 
 British road and remains 
 
 King-street : 
 
 Long Staple and S. 
 
 816, 817 
 
 Cromwell's house ; nota- 
 
 Stephen's IIospital,82 1, 
 
 Course of, 817 
 
 ble residents ; Spenser 
 
 822 
 
 Etymons of the name, 817 
 
 died, 823, 824 
 
 WESTMINSTER HALI, : 
 
 London Stone, 533, 534 
 
 Manchester-buildings, 822 
 
 Bill of Fare, George IV.'s 
 
 Roman Grand Way, 816 
 
 Millbank-street : 
 
 coronation, 831 
 
 South-Eastern Railway Sta 
 
 Peterborough House, 824 
 
 Colours and Standards, 828 
 
 tion, 818 
 
 Penitentiary, 697 
 
 Coronation Feasts : 
 
 Stukeley and Wren, 817 
 
 Origin of name, 820 
 
 Edward I., Richard II., 
 
 Watling-street Thistle, 816 
 
 Palace-yard, Old and New 
 
 George IV., 830, 831 
 
 WAX-WORK SHOWS : 
 
 Clock-tower ; Conduit 
 
 Cromwell inaugurated ; 
 
 Collections, various, 819 
 
 Executions, Pillory 
 
 head set up, 830 
 
 Salmon, Mrs., 350 
 
 Stocks, and Whippings 
 
 Fire in 1630, 829 
 
 Tussaud Collection : 
 
 Starchamber buildings 
 
 Floods of the Thames, 828 
 
 Madame Tussaud, sketcl 
 
 Chaucer and Ben Jon 
 
 Galilee, 828 
 
 of, 819 
 
 son ; Gunpowder-plot 
 
 Great Fire of 1834, 829 
 
 Chamber of Horrors, 820 
 
 Raleigh's execution 
 
 Great and Little Halls, 
 
 George IV.'s Coronation 
 
 White Rose Taveru,82< 
 
 831 
 
 Rubes, 810 
 
 Palmer's Village : 
 
 Hell, Purgatory, Paradise, 
 
 Hall of Kings, 819 
 
 Maypole, 825 
 
 and Heaven, 830 
 
 Modelling in wax, ccs 
 
 Park-street : 
 
 Interior dimensions, 827 
 
 tume, &c., 819 
 
 TownleyCollection ; Cock 
 
 Kings held their courts, 828 
 
 Napoleon Relics, 820 
 
 pit, 825 
 
 King's Championship, 830 
 
 Relics, Miscellaneous, 82 
 
 Petty France : 
 
 Norman remains, 827 
 
 Royal and noble cele 
 
 Milton's House, 825 
 
 Oak, British, Roof, 828 
 
 brilies, 819 
 
 Prince's-street : 
 
 Parliaments assembled, 829 
 
 Westminster Abbey : 
 
 Broken Cross ; Stationer; 
 
 Richard II. heightened, 
 
 Show in 1754, 818 
 
 Office, 825 
 
 827
 
 INDEX. 
 
 871 
 
 WESTMINSTER HALL contd. 
 
 WHITEHALL continued. 
 
 WHITEHALL continued. 
 
 Rioters of Evil May-day, 830 
 
 Elizabeth's recreations, 834 
 
 Vertue's plan, 835 
 
 Koof carvings, 827 
 
 Exchequer : 
 
 United Service Institution 
 
 Roof and Lantern, 827 
 
 Trial of the Pyx, 836, 837 
 
 Museum, 836 
 
 Rufus's Hall, 827 
 
 Execution of Charles I., 834 
 
 Whitehall Gardens, 837 
 
 Shops in the Hall, 829 
 
 Extent, 833, 837 
 
 Whitehall, name, 833 
 
 S- Stephen's Porch and 
 
 Gardens and Dials : 
 
 Wolsey's Statue, 833 
 
 Statues, 662, 828 
 
 Gunter and Hall's, 836 
 
 Wyat's rebels, 834 
 
 Trials, Memorable, 829 
 
 Great Fire, 835 
 
 WINDOWS, PAINTED AND 
 
 William of Wykeham, 827 
 
 Gunpowder Plot, 834 
 
 STAINED: St. Paul's; Guild- 
 
 WHITECHAPEIi : 
 
 Henry VIII. and Anne 
 
 hall; Oxford-street, 837 
 
 Claude Duval and Defoe ; 
 
 Boleyn married, 833 
 
 
 Inns and galleried yards ; 
 
 Holbein's Gate, 833 
 
 TORK HOUSE, last of, 836 
 
 S. Mary's Church ; Mears's 
 
 James II., Statue of, 836 
 
 York-place, 833 
 
 Bell-foundry ; Prison ; 
 
 James II. at Whitehall, 835 
 
 
 Tokens, 831, 832 
 
 Jones, Inigo, Palace de- 
 
 7OOLOGICAL SOCIETY'S 
 
 WHITEFRIAIIS : 
 
 signed by, 834 
 
 U GARDENS : 
 
 Carmelite Convent ; Chap- 
 
 Jones, Inigo, and Stone, 
 
 Admission of Members,839 
 
 ter-house and Church ; 
 
 sculptor, 837 
 
 Animals, more remark- 
 
 Hanging - sword - alley ; 
 
 Mary, Queen, coronation,834 
 
 able, 838 
 
 Lombard-street ; San- 
 
 Museum, Whitehall-yard: 
 
 Founders, 838 
 
 quhar. Lord ; Selden in 
 
 Portland vase, 836 
 
 Menagerie in Regent's 
 
 Friary-house ; Theatre ; 
 
 Orchard of Whitehall, 834 
 
 Park, 838 
 
 832 
 
 Palace, Confessor's, rebuilt, 
 
 Museum opened, 838 
 
 WHITEHALL : 
 
 833 
 
 Society instituted, 837 
 
 Banqueting-house rebuilt, 
 
 Palace-row: 
 
 Visitors, 839 
 
 834 
 
 Kotable residents, 837 
 
 Zoological Club, 839 
 
 Bowling-alley, Cockpit, and 
 
 Pictures, 833 
 
 Zoological Gardens, Surrey : 
 
 Tennis-court, 833 
 
 Privy Garden, 836 
 
 Cross' Menagerie, 839 
 
 Canaletti's view, 835 
 
 Remains of ancient White- 
 
 Gardens laid out, 839 
 
 Chapel Royal, 835 
 
 hall, 836 
 
 Pictures and Models, and 
 
 Charles I., pictures, 834 
 
 Richmond and Pembroke 
 
 Fireworks, 839 
 
 Charles II. .additions by, 835 
 
 House, 835 
 
 Surrey Music Hall, 839 
 
 Cromwell at Whitehall, 835 
 
 Scotland-yard : 
 
 St. Thomas's Hospital, 
 
 Edward VI. 's Parliament, 83 3 
 
 Metropolitan Police, 837 
 
 temporary, 839 
 
 THE END.
 
 LONDON ! 
 
 SAVILL, EDWABD9 AND CO., PBINTEBS, CHANDOS STBEKT, 
 COVENT GARDEN.
 
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