Ex Libris 
 C. K. OGDEN 
 
 // 
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES 
 
 THE LIBKAKY
 
 TWENTY YEARS 
 
 OF 
 
 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL
 
 7" 

 
 TWENTY YEARS 
 
 OF 
 
 CONTINENTAL WORK 
 AND TRAVEL 
 
 BY 
 
 THE RIGHT REV. BISHOP WILKINSON, D.D. 
 
 OF NORTHERN AND CENTRAL EUROPE 
 
 WITH A PREFACE BY 
 THE RIGHT HON. SIR EDMUND MONSON, Bart. 
 
 G.C.B., G.C.M.G., ETC. 
 LATE H.B.M. AMBASSADOR AT VIENNA, PARIS, ETC. 
 
 IVITH FRONTISPIECE 
 
 LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. 
 
 39 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON 
 
 NEW YORK AND BOMBAY 
 
 1906 
 
 All riifhts resei-'td
 
 
 TO 
 
 THE CHAPLAINS 
 OF NORTH AND CENTRAL EUROPE 
 
 WHO BY THEIR LOYALTY AND READY CO-OPERATION 
 
 HAVE ENABLED ME 
 
 UNDER GOD 
 
 TO DO THE WORK HEREIN RECORDED 
 
 AND TO THE MANY KIND AND HOSPITABLE FRIENDS 
 
 WHO HAVE WELCOMED AND CARED FOR ME 
 
 ON MY LONG AND LONELY JOURNEYS 
 
 I DEDICATE THIS RECORD 
 
 OF MY TWENTY YEARS' WORK AMONGST THEM 

 
 PREFACE 
 
 BY THE RIGHT HON. SIR EDMUND MONSON, Bart. 
 
 G.C.B., G.C.M.G., ETC. 
 
 IT has not been without considerable misgiving as to my compe- 
 tence to deal adequately with the task that I have ventured to 
 comply with the request of my old friend and diocesan that I should 
 write a few words of preface to his reminiscences. In doing so I 
 must at once confess that I should look upon it as an impertinence to 
 comment upon his recital of experiences, — in a measure unique, and 
 consequently possessing a peculiar interest of their own, — without 
 having had the opportunity of a previous perusal. I am, however, 
 very grateful to the Bishop for giving me an opportunity of making a 
 few remarks upon the general question of the British chaplaincies 
 abroad, and of the necessity of their being subjected to episcopal 
 supervision ; for though many of my late colleagues in the diplomatic 
 service have had equally good occasion to appreciate the devotion of 
 the chaplains to their duties, and the enlightened zeal and energy of 
 their diocesan, and would be able to express that appreciation in a 
 more intelligent and attractive form than I fear lies in my own 
 power, there is no one who has a heartier interest than I have in 
 the welfare of the clergy officially resident on the Continent, in the 
 success of their labours, and in the advantages derived by the various 
 British communities from their assiduous performance of the very 
 responsible functions which their exceptional situation involves ; and 
 further, there is no one who recognizes more sincerely the fact that 
 they are unanimous in their sentiments of admiration and thankful- 
 ness for the wise and judicious and sympathetic superintendence of 
 their Bishop. 
 
 There are perhaps not many now living who can recollect, as I can.
 
 viii PREFACE 
 
 the deficiency of all facilities for the observance of religious worship 
 according to the rites and ceremonies of our Anglican Church which 
 prevailed in the greater part of the Continent sixty years ago. Living 
 for some time abroad with my parents in the early forties ; travelling 
 in many countries, a juvenile member of a large family party always 
 accompanied by a clerical tutor, it was of very common occurrence 
 that on the Sunday halts in the large towns in which English 
 travellers or English residents — generally few in number — were to be 
 found, the opportunity of attending divine service held by an 
 English clergyman was eagerly welcomed ; and every effort used to 
 be made by my parents to make known that such an opportunity 
 would be offered at their hotel. 
 
 At a large number of such places, where the celebration of divine 
 service was then an infrequent event, there are now resident chap- 
 lains, and very often EngHsh churches or chapels ; in some, which 
 have become the favourite resorts of our countrymen, there are more 
 than one church or chapel, and very large congregations. Not a year 
 passes but their number is increased ; and in many cases the build- 
 ings thus erected are edifices of architectural beauty, and the services 
 celebrated therein are dignified by most of the adjuncts, musical and 
 other, associated in our minds with the worship of God in our own 
 country. These edifices represent, in nearly every case, the outcome 
 of efforts, of sacrifices, of persistent energy in the face of discouraging 
 circumstances, which are, alas ! far too little understood or valued by 
 the travelling public. The burden has often been terribly heavy 
 upon the fixed residents ; not to speak of the chaplain himself, whose 
 scanty remuneration is rarely a living wage ; upon which inadequate 
 provision he generally has to draw partly for the maintenance of the 
 fabric itself, and partly for the charities as unavoidable in his position 
 as they would be to a parson at home. The majority of our travellers 
 abroad, those who visit the Continent for amusement, or for deliver- 
 ance from the rigours of the English climate, are ex necessitate ret, 
 people of ample means. But it is not from their pockets that a 
 consul, a chaplain, or even a diplomatic representative dare expect 
 much pecuniary aid towards the support of a British charitable fund, 
 a British school, or the salary of a British clergyman. The con- 
 sciences of many are appeased, and applications for aid are answered
 
 PREFACE ix 
 
 by the argument that they do their duty at home in their own 
 country ; and they recognize no similar obligation on their well-filled 
 purses which enable them to take their pleasure abroad. The stories 
 of bad money ; of coins of infinitesimal current value ; of coins not 
 current at all ; found in the offertory bags, are unfortunately as true 
 as they are common ; and they derive an additional element of sad- 
 ness from the undoubted fact that they contrast, unfavourably for 
 our reputation, with the consistent and never-failing generosity of 
 x\mericans in dealing with analogous circumstances. 
 
 I have referred to the responsibiUty of the office of a chaplain 
 abroad. It is in general a heavy one, not only in regard to local 
 demands on his time, his attention, and his pocket, but also in 
 regard to the correspondence and trouble caused by applications 
 from persons at home requiring information on the most varied 
 topics; such, for instance, as the advantages and disadvantages of the 
 place as a residence ; its educational facilities ; its climatic character- 
 istics. Or it may be that a perfectly unknown correspondent makes 
 inquiries of a more personal character : as to individuals — relatives 
 or friends — of whom no precise news can be obtained, or for whom 
 the chaplain's interest, protection, or intervention is claimed in 
 places where no diplomatic or consular official resides. Services 
 rendered by the chaplain in such cases remain unremunerated, and 
 frequently put him to no little trouble and expense. But my 
 experience leads me to believe that they are in all cases very cheer- 
 fully rendered, without any reference being made to the trouble, 
 expense, or inconvenience involved. 
 
 And, beyond the satisfaction of the chaplain at the consciousness 
 of duty punctually performed, and of unremunerated aid and advice 
 ungrudgingly given, what reward awaits him for years of unremitting 
 labour and almost uninterrupted exile from his own country ? Rare 
 is it indeed that in his later years he can see any prospect of obtain- 
 ing a cure of souls at home in the event of health or family circum- 
 stances making a return to England an object to him. Poorly paid, 
 he can lay by Httle or nothing for his old age ; without influence or 
 interest he must be content to live his life in a foreign land. But in 
 spite of these drawbacks there are to be found among our chaplains 
 abroad all the single-mindedness, the zeal, the unselfishness, the
 
 X PREFACE 
 
 devotedness that we are accustomed to identify with the example of 
 the parish priest. 
 
 It may be said that I have coloured the picture too highly, and 
 exaggerated the merits of the type. But I do not pretend to portray 
 that type as superior to all human defects. On the contrary, the 
 weaknesses, the errors, the prejudices, inherent in frail nature, are as 
 much there as everywhere else; and their existence leads me to 
 touch upon the one topic which many a reader of this preface — if I 
 may flatter myself that such there will be — may consider as more 
 germane to the Bishop's reminiscences than the excursus upon which 
 I have ventured in the preceding remarks. I need hardly say that I 
 refer to the personality of the author. 
 
 If any one asks me the raison d'etre for a bishop of the Anglican 
 Church with such an episcopal sphere as Northern and Central 
 Europe — vast in its extent, but sketchy and shadowy in its outline — 
 with a jurisdiction apparently unsubstantial, and in a great degree 
 dependent upon the personality of the Bishop, I have no difficulty in 
 replying that my experience satisfies me that the cessation of the 
 system as at present organized would be an irreparable calamity. 
 Many may look upon his position as purely ornamental ; more may 
 recognize the necessity of his existence for the performance of 
 ordinary episcopal rites, confirmation of the young, consecration or 
 dedication of buildings for the celebration of divine worship ; it is 
 reserved, perhaps, for the few to understand and appreciate the value 
 of his supervision of the clergy of his diocese both in their indi- 
 vidual and in their collective capacity. And amongst the few none 
 more completely and gratefully than the chaplains themselves. I 
 doubt if it be possible to find a body of men, of limited number, pro- 
 fessing the same faith, actuated unquestionably by the same motives, 
 inspired by the same principles, who nevertheless exemplify more 
 thoroughly the truth of the old maxim Quot hojnines, tot sententicB. 
 And is it surprising that such should be the case ? I think not, when 
 their circumstances are fairly considered. Dwellers in a foreign land; 
 isolated in most cases from colleagues with whom it would be advan- 
 tageous to be in close touch ; insensibly but unavoidably influenced 
 by local surroundings, by the habits of life, the methods of thought, 
 the prejudices, nay, even the example of the mass of the people with
 
 PREFACE xi 
 
 whom they necessarily come somewhat in contact ; themselves men 
 of an education generally far superior to that of the majority of the 
 community of their fellow-countrymen, of whom they are in most 
 cases the leaders, titular or actual ; it seems only natural that this 
 quasi isolation should induce habits of thought, of study, and of 
 reflection, which, unchecked by frequent free communication with 
 men of congenial, even of differing methods of dogma and reasoning, 
 must tend to build up idiosyncrasies of character and of mental action 
 liable, when occasion does bring them into association with their col- 
 leagues, to provoke mutual misunderstanding, unless such misunder- 
 standing can be composed and conciliated by the intervention, 
 advice, and authority of an officially recognized arbiter. 
 
 Irrespective of the regular pastoral visits paid to each chaplain in- 
 dividually, it is at the annual meeting in conference of the Anglican 
 chaplains abroad that the bishop is called upon to exercise the most 
 important of his functions as president and moderator of his assem- 
 bled clergy. Efficiently to carry out this duty, the presiding authority 
 must be endowed with a knowledge and experience which command 
 respect, while at the same time he must display a largeness of view ; 
 a genuine sympathy with men of divergent opinions ; a power of 
 tactful management ; and an exceptionally patient temper ; without 
 which such meetings could hardly escape the danger of developing 
 acrimonious polemics. To the ordinary acquirements of a highly 
 placed ecclesiastic he must add the conciliatory methods of a trained 
 diplomatist as well as the patent equity of an unimpeachable 
 arbitrator. Speaking as I do from personal knowledge of the pro- 
 ceedings of these conferences held in several of the foreign capitals 
 at which I have been the accredited representative of my Sovereign, 
 I have no hesitation in saying that the work accomplished by the 
 author of the following pages has been in every direction successful, 
 and one for which every British subject interested in the welfare of 
 his countrymen abroad may well feel grateful to the guiding hand 
 which has raised up and placed in an authoritative position a 
 personage possessing in a marked degree the indispensable qualifica- 
 tions demanded by his office. 
 
 For myself, as one who for so many years has enjoyed the privi- 
 lege of his friendship, as well as for many colleagues on behalf of
 
 xii PREFACE 
 
 whom I am sure that I can speak with unfaltering confidence in the 
 same sense, I look back upon the long period during which Bishop 
 Wilkinson has carried out his mission amongst us with heartfelt 
 gratitude towards one who has never spared himself in the discharge 
 of his ministrations, but has continued, at much cost to his health 
 and to his pocket, to labour (for that word is the only one to describe 
 the nature of his efforts) in the task imposed upon him. 
 
 In his journeyings over his vast diocese he has been brought into 
 contact with the high and mighty as well as with the humble and 
 meek. I venture to assert that wherever he has been, whether it be 
 in the court or the cottage, at the table of a Sovereign, or at that of 
 a poorly paid chaplain, he has equally shown the attractiveness of his 
 individuality and the single-mindedness of his life and views. I trust 
 he will pardon me for saying thus much. I should have done violence 
 to my sense of fairness had I said less. 
 
 Of the nature of his personal relations with each individual member 
 of the body of chaplains ; of the value of his advice and sympathy in 
 their troubles and difficulties ; of the solace and encouragement 
 afforded by his visits to the scene of each man's labours; it is not for 
 me to speak. I can guess the truth ; but that truth remains the 
 secret treasure of each grateful beneficiary. 
 
 EDMUND MONSON 
 
 Saint Andrew's Day, 1 905
 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 DURING the twenty years that I have travelled and worked up 
 and down North and Central Europe amongst the British 
 colonies, factories, and communities scattered broadcast over an area 
 eight times the size of Great Britain, I have visited many interesting 
 places, taken part in many notable functions and scenes, and been 
 thrown with many remarkable, and indeed historical, persons. These 
 places, scenes, and personages I have woven into the journals of my 
 work, written not for publication but for reference, and jotted down 
 in many strange corners and circumstances as time and pressure have 
 made possible. They have been written up de die in diem, in all 
 sorts of odd places : on steamers, in railway trains, on railway plat- 
 forms, at all hours of the day ; and in cabins, waiting-rooms, and 
 sleeping-cars at all hours of the night. I have done this not only 
 to preserve that freshness of impression which is so essential to 
 journalism, but to ensure accuracy of recount and detail. Though of 
 necessity frequently revisiting the centres of my work, I have always 
 found some new interest to record, and have tried never to repeat my 
 experiences. 
 
 My many continental and English friends have urged me strongly 
 from time to time, during these twenty years, to publish my journals, 
 but I have hitherto declined to do so. I do not like even quasi 
 autobiography, and in going against my own feelings, and giving way 
 to the oft-repeated wishes of my friends, I would have it understood 
 that I do so because I think that the manuscripts before me, copied 
 out and arranged by an old friend — Mrs. White, of Charmouth — may 
 prove not only in some measure interesting, but in some measure 
 also profitable. As a record of what a Bishop in charge of his 
 fellow-countrymen living and travelling abroad has to do in these
 
 xiv INTRODUCTION 
 
 days in order to meet their spiritual needs when scattered over an 
 area coterminous with North and Central Europe, they may en- 
 courage other workers in other fields. 
 
 It must be remembered that these scattered Anglo-Saxons — for my 
 episcopal charge includes many hundreds of thousands of resident 
 and travelling Americans — are to be found more or less everywhere 
 throughout the eight hundred thousand square miles of the so-called 
 North and Central Europe Anglican Bishopric, which stretches over 
 the ten countries of Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Holland, Belgium 
 France, Switzerland, Germany, Austria, and Russia. 
 
 Before I was twenty-two years old I had travelled in all those ten 
 countries except Norway, then scarcely known as a region of travel ; 
 indeed, I knew Europe pretty well from Petersburg to Stockholm in 
 the north, to Southern Italy and Gibraltar in the south ; and east and 
 west, from Calais to Moscow ; before I took Holy Orders. 
 
 I have in the last twenty years retraced as a Bishop the early steps 
 of a wide-wandering, and I am afraid in some sense a wild-wandering, 
 boy ; for when a schoolboy of seventeen I travelled alone through 
 France, Belgium, Switzerland, and Germany; and before I was twenty- 
 two I went alone into Italy with the intention of joining Garibaldi's 
 contingent of young Englishmen, who in i860 fought for Italian 
 liberty. Since then I have worked and travelled in South Africa 
 from Capetown through Natal, Zululand and Amazwasiland to the 
 northern goldfields and districts of the Transvaal and Amatongaland. 
 
 Much might be written of those middle twenty years, but I must 
 confine myself to the last twenty of a roving, though I trust a useful, 
 and certainly not an uneventful, life. 
 
 Bradford Court, near Taunton 
 January, 1906
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 First visit to the Continent upon chaplaincy work— Work in Paris— Effects 
 of the "Commune" at Neuilly and Paris generally — The wounded of the 
 Franco -German War in the salons at Versailles — Compicgne as the 
 imperial family left it — Belgium . . . Pages 1-4 
 
 CHAPTER n 
 
 Prince Napoleon's arrest in Paris — Dr. Evans's account of the escape of the 
 Empress Eugenie — New frontier at Deutsch-Avricourt — Strasburg Cathe- 
 dral damaged by the war — Freiburg in Baden — Audience of Prince Louis 
 of Hesse in Darmstadt — Prince Louis and Princesses attend confirmation 
 — Princess Alice's mausoleum — Dresden — Berlin: first audience with 
 Crown Princess — Confirmation in Mon Bijou Palace Chapel — Sir Savile 
 Lumley's reception at Brussels — Confirmation in Holland . . . 5-1 1 
 
 CHAPTER HI 
 
 Chantilly — Louis Philippe's coachman — Confirmation of stable-lads and 
 jockeys — Audience with Empress Augusta of Germany at Baden — English 
 girl travels from Warsaw to Stuttgart to obtain her confirmation — Growing 
 need of continental bishopric . . . . .12-15 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 Libramont — After Sedan — The fallen Emperor — Triers — Ems — The Kaiser's 
 Stein — " 13 Jiili, 1S70; 9 Uhr, lomin; morgen" — Denkmal on the Nieder- 
 wald — Night spent by a lady on Mont Blanc — Rapid increase of chap- 
 laincies in Switzerland . .... 16-23 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 First journey as bishop for Northern and Central Europe — New English 
 church in Berlin — American thanksgiving dinner — Confirmation at St. 
 George's Church — Crown Princess present — Audience with Crown Prince 
 and Princess — " The more English churches you build in Germany the 
 better I shall like it " — Requested to confirm one thousand Old Catholics 
 in Vienna — Incidents at the Tuileries after Sedan — Touching stories of the 
 Franco-German War — Princess Salm-Salm and the Emperor Maximilian 24-30
 
 xvi CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 
 History of the English church at Rotterdam— Visit to Crown Princess of 
 Germany in Berlin— A bow from Bismarck— The Russian frontier ; its 
 guard-houses from the Baltic to the Black Sea—" Est-ce que vous avez 
 des depcches, monsieur?" — "A sadder and a hungrier man" — Gatchina, 
 the Windsor of Russia— The frozen Neva— Peter the Great's cottage — 
 The ice hills— Conspiracy against the life of Alexander II — Interesting 
 confirmation candidates at Petersburg — Great service at the Isaac 
 Cathedral — Prince Kantekuzin — The murdered Czar — "Bishop of 
 Northern and Central Europe, and Central and Eastern Asia!" — The 
 ice-crushers on the Dwina at Riga . . . Pages 31-48 
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 Brussels — First conference of chaplains — The iguanodon — Loss of the 
 episcopal hat — Brittany and its quaintnesses — Henry II and his scourging- 
 pillar at Avranches ..... 49-55 
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 
 Palace at Coblenz — Interview with Prince Louis of Hesse at Darmstadt — 
 Visit to Prince Alexander of Bulgaria at Jugenheim Palace — Confirmation 
 in Palace chapel at Darmstadt : Grand Duke and Princess Irene present — 
 Bishop Hertzog and the Old Catholics — Visit to Dr. Dollinger at Munich 
 and to Professor Friedrich — Consecration of Embassy chapel in Vienna — 
 St. Stephen's Cathedral — The Western Gate of the East — The Danube — 
 A " langsam " journey ... . . 56-68 
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 Copenhagen — Consecration of St. Alban's Church — Luncheon on board the 
 Osborne — A banquet at Fredensborg — The King and Queen of Denmark, 
 Emperor and Empress of Russia, King and Queen of Greece, Prince 
 and Princess of Wales "At Home" — An historical autumn gathering — 
 Goteborg and the Gdteborg licensing system — The Venice of the North — 
 Hamburg ...... 69-85 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 Berlin mourns the Crown Prince's illness— The old Kaiser waves his last 
 farewell to his beloved soldiers— High and dry on the banks of the Maes 
 —The North Sea fishing fleet leaving Dunkirk — " Je ne le comprend pas, 
 mais c'est tres gentil "—Lord Lytton at the Paris Embassy— Sir Richard 
 Wallace — St. George's English church at Paris— A rough crossing- 
 Charlemagne's tomb at Aachen — Consecration of church at Cassel — 
 "The English Bishop knows more about the history of our country than 
 we do "—The beautiful prison of the Emperor Napoleon— Third annual 
 conference of chaplains at Montreux— Pere Hyacinthe— A Sunday in 
 Nature's temple ...... 86-93
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 The Baltic provinces of Russia — " Heaven protects the Czar : how can we 
 compass his destruction ? " — Napoleon's retreat from Moscow — Audience 
 with the Emperor William II — " Now what will you say of our Kaiser 
 in England ? " — Yesterday a living, to-day a dead Kaiser — Visit to the 
 Emperor Frederick's tomb at Potsdam — Frederick the Great's elm tree — 
 A silent prayer by the Emperor Frederick's tomb — " Lerne zu leiden, 
 ohne zu Klagen " — Baron Munchausen's castle . . , 94-104 
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 
 The Landes and its stilt-walkers — Arcachon and its pine forests — Biarritz 
 and St. Jean de Luz — Pau and the Pyrenees — Tours — Consecration of 
 St. George's Church, Paris — Interview with Sir Richard Wallace . 105-113 
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 
 Darmstadt and the Grand Duke — Last audience with the Empress Augusta 
 at Baden — Last hours in the Tuileries — Snowed up in June at Zermatt — 
 Pastoral staff stolen — Visit to Empress Frederick at Homburg Castle — 
 Memorial service at her request for the Emperor Frederick — Confirmation 
 of Jewish converts at Amsterdam — The Palace of Charlottenburg — 
 American thanksgiving service at Dresden — Audience with the Grand 
 Duke of Saxe-Weimar — Proposed new church at Weimar — Schiller and 
 Goethe houses— Continental bishopric . . . . 1 14-123 
 
 CHAPTER XIV 
 
 The Polish frontier at Alexandrowo — Three hundred thousand of Russia's 
 picked troops — Warsaw — Leave from Government necessary to hold 
 confirmation — Warsaw, Minsk, Smolensk, and Brest-Litewski, a quadri- 
 lateral of immense resistance— Borodino — Moscow — New English church 
 — The Kremlin— New cathedral of St, Saviour— Visit to the Lamsdorfs' 
 palace at Kuskove — Hillocks, tons, and acres of mushrooms — Two 
 Ash-Wednesdays within twelve days— Trytyakoff's picture gallery— The 
 cottage of the last Council on the Borodino road — The Romanoff (or 
 Boyar) house— The Kremlin : its palaces and their endless ramifications 
 — Moscow of the present day much as it was in 1743 — Mrs. Stratton, 
 the old English nurse at the Winter Palace, Petersburg— The Anitch- 
 koff Palace — "I never passed these charmed gates heioie"— Codex 
 Sinaittcus— Fortress of Schlusselburg on Lake Ladoga— The Crimea 
 and Livadia ....•• I24-I47 
 
 CHAPTER XV 
 
 The old Flemish woman's verdict, "Siebenzig jahre"— An interview with 
 the Grand Duchess of Baden— Climb up the St. Gothard— The Furca and 
 Grimsel Passes in deep snow— Fourth Conference at Paris— A terrible 
 story — A stormy passage to Brittany . . . • 148-154 
 
 d
 
 xviii CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER XVI 
 
 Copenhagen — Thorwaldsen's Museum — Museum of Northern Antiquities — 
 Confirmation at Stockholm under severe difficulties — Consecration at 
 Christiania of the first Anglican church built in Norway — The Viking 
 ship — A Norwegian stave church with old farm and village buildings — 
 The boat that saved Nansen's life — A Norwegian millionaire — Stavenger 
 Cathedral — The Hardanger fiord — Bergen — Sad-hearted emigrants IS5~'^7 
 
 CHAPTER XVII 
 A severe winter in Western Europe — Fifth annual Conference at Wiesbaden 
 — Presentation of new pastoral staff — Dinner at the Grand Ducal Palace, 
 Darmstadt — Confirmation of consumptive patients at Davos — An old 
 bilingual Bury St. Edmunds woman — Consecration of English church 
 at Dieppe — Cession of Heligoland; its ancient titles to land — "The 
 pleasantest people in Europe" . . . . 168-174 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII 
 Lourdes and its legend — Argeles — Sixth annual Conference at Pau — The 
 Beersheba of the North Europe chaplaincies — Hertford Hospital in Paris 
 — Meran and the Austrian Tyrol— Entry of Bourbaki's army into Switzer- 
 land — Consecration of English church at Havre — The Zuyder Zee and 
 its dead cities — Radbolt refuses baptism, "If I am to be separated from 
 them by becoming a Christian, I will remain a heathen " — Island of 
 Marken — Curious story of a stork's matrimonial difficulties — Hunner- 
 betten — The golden oriole — Visit to Sir Horace Rumbold at the Hague 
 Embassy ...... 175-1^6 
 
 CHAPTER XIX 
 The unbeliever's grave at Hanover — The Czar at Fredensborg— The organ- 
 blower taken for a nihilist — The Moreau monument — Patience of a 
 Russian railway official — " I have slept in this carriage for a month" — 
 Unusual winter and snowfall in Petersburg — The last of the Emperor 
 Nicholas's sons — Reindeer and camp upon the Neva — A two days' review 
 by the Czar Alexander III — The frozen fish-market at Petersburg — The 
 frozen mammoth from Siberia — State service at the Isaac Cathedral — 
 Riga — Ice eleven and a half feet thick at Libau — A bit of the Arctic 
 regions — Hummocks of ice twenty feet high — Twenty-five steamers 
 frozen in ...... 187-198 
 
 CHAPTER XX 
 
 Seventh Conference at Geneva — Lord and Lady DutTerin at the Paris Em- 
 bassy — Their world-wide treasures — Up Jutland to Friedrichshaven — A 
 dismal, wind-swept promontory — Six hours of the Cattegat's ill-humour — 
 A cod a yard long for 7^d. — Uddevalle — Winter rushes down from the 
 north — "Nothing more now till next June" — The cataracts of Troll- 
 hatten — Stockholm — The Bishop of Gottland attends the English church 
 — Visit to Shepsta, where the King when Prince of Wales shot his 
 Swedish elks — Gripsholm Castle on the Malar Lake — A Viking's grave — 
 Lund Cathedral — Visit to the British Legation at Copenhagen — The 
 Princess of Wales attends the harvest thanksgiving service at St. Alban's, 
 Copenhagen ...... 199-210
 
 CONTENTS xix 
 
 CHAPTER XXI 
 
 Brussels — The Wiertz and national collection of pictures — Biarritz — 
 Peninsular War memorial in English church — Drive through an historic 
 district of the campaign — The Baronne de Gez, a noble victim of the 
 French Revolution — Consecration of St. Andrew's Church at Pau — Two 
 hundred miles of the snowy Pyrenees — Brief flight into Brittany — The 
 cholera at Hamburg — Eighth annual Conference at Dresden — New church 
 at Weimar through the interest of the Grand Duke — " Herzliche Segens- 
 wunsche flir die confirmation " — Professor Godet, the commentator 21 1-218 
 
 CHAPTER XXII 
 
 Visit to the Duke and Duchess of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha (Duke and Duchess 
 of Edinburgh) — The Duke gives the Schlosschen for the English church — 
 State banquet at the castle, Gotha — Climbing the Gothard from the 
 Italian side — Purchase and adaptation of church at Zurich — The last 
 senior officer of the Balaclava charge — Bishop Mackenzie's grave at the 
 Ruo mouth — The greatest humbug in Europe — A thrice-told tale : the 
 battlefield of Waterloo — Stettin — Ninth annual Conference at Boulogne — 
 Consecration of St. John's Church — The Roman camp on the Saalburg 219-233 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII 
 
 The little rivulet in the sandy waste — Warsaw sullen, resentful, and dismal 
 as ever — Cossacks from afar, dirty, wayworn — Polish stories of Russian 
 oppression — The Beresina — The grave of Napoleon's retreating troops — 
 Preparations for coronation in Moscow — The Russian loan to China, and 
 where the money went — Dean Stanley's description of Moscow — " O 
 good, kind sirs, of your dearness, do give this wretched little boy one 
 small kopek " — Tragic end to a Russian dinner party in the days of Peter 
 the Great — Visit to the great Peresilni (exiling) prison at Moscow — 
 Eighty-five women who had murdered their husbands — Prisoners' chains, 
 how they are fastened — The Bishop's thanks for the Governor's kindness 
 — A week of ecclesiastical functions at Petersburg in company with 
 Russian archbishops and bishops — A visit to the Archbishop of Petersburg 
 — Presentation of an ikon — A silent prayer at Alexander Nevski's tomb — 
 Visit to M. Pobiedonostzeff — "Voila, la peste de civilisation" — Father 
 John of Cronstadt — Extraordinary scenes in connexion with him — eh 
 iroXXa Irt] SicrTrora — Father John's book, Afy Life in Christ — Confirma- 
 tion of 130 candidates— Dean of St. Isaac present — Great service at St. 
 Isaac's Cathedral commemorating the freeing of the serfs in i86i — 
 Father John of Cronstadt presents portrait of himself— A brave young 
 Anglo-Saxon — Remarkable demonstration at the Baltic railway station 
 at Petersburg— Another demonstration at Riga— The Anglican Bishop 
 blesses the opening of a new factory— Bear's-paw soup — Visit to Sir 
 Frank and Lady Lascelles at Berlin — Audience with the Empress 
 Frederick — Mozart's violin . .... 234-263
 
 XX CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV 
 
 Lord Dufferin's last state banquet at Paris — One who knows the world and 
 everything in it — The Astronomer Royal of the Cape — Consecration of 
 the Church of SS. George and Boniface, Freiburg — Tenth Conference at 
 Vienna — Visit to Sir Edmund Monson at the Embassy — Millennium 
 celebration at Buda-Pesth — An indescribable pageant — The busy Danube 
 — Professor Herzl, the Zionist — Salzburg and the Konigsee — Christiania — 
 Nansen's return from the North Pole — Ibsen — Bishop of Christiania 
 invites to his ordination — The architectural region of Norway — Tele- 
 marken, the Dalen Canal, Kirkebo — Norwegian stabburs — Fredericksborg 
 slot — A gem of architecture — Blok's pictures — Visit to Sir Charles and 
 Lady Scott at the Legation, Copenhagen — Bernstorf — Princess of Wales 
 at the English church in Copenhagen — Visit to the Osborne Pages 264-277 
 
 CHAPTER XXV 
 
 Victoria Home for Aged English Women in Paris — " Oh ! sir, it was not 
 the Prussians, it was the P>ench that did it" — " Lammermoor," Lady 
 Emily Peel's home at Geneva — Consecration at Meran of the first Anglican 
 church built in the Tyrol — A run down the Rhone through Languedoc to 
 Carcassonne — A uniquely wonderful walled town — Lourdes the shrine of 
 imposition — Princess Frederica of Hanover at Biarritz — Bayonne and its 
 cathedral — " These English are a strange people " — A passage to Brittany 
 in hurricane, storm, and tempest .... 278-285 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI 
 The Hague and the Spanish Inquisition — "Alleen op de Wereld" — 
 Characteristic English boy — Eleventh annual Conference at Berlin — 
 Visit to Sir Frank Lascelles at the Embassy — Prince Radolin, German 
 Ambassador to Russia — "All right ! I'll take it out this way!" — The 
 new railway station at Dresden — Napoleon's Stein at Leipzig — " Hier 
 weilte Napoleon am i8th October, 1813, die Kampfe der Voelkers 
 schlacht beobachend" — The penultimate ride to Paris — Am "schritt" — 
 Baron Tauchnitz — An afternoon with the Duke and Duchess of Coburg 
 at Rosenau, the birthplace of the Prince Consort — Luther's bedroom and 
 sitting-room in the Coburg Festung — "Through the streets in which I 
 had blacked boots I passed as Governor" — " Kommt der Teufel am 
 Englische ufer, denn wird ihn im Teich gestiirzt " — Visit to the Grand 
 Duchess of Baden at the Schloss Baden — Stone-laying of new church at 
 DUsseldorf ...... 286-302 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII 
 
 Ghent — Abbey of Bavon, built when we in England were yet pagans, St. 
 Augustine not having yet landed at Ebbsfleet — A buried village in the 
 sand dunes of North France — The monument at Ambleteuse to com- 
 memorate the intended invasion of England — Chateau Montataire and 
 Henry IV — Twelfth annual Conference at Lausanne — Colossal statue of 
 the Kaiser William I at Coblenz — Darmstadt — Prince Albert of Schleswig- 
 Holstein — Alterations in Princess Alice's mausoleum — Stone-laying of 
 Chateau D'Oex church — An historical chalet . . . 303-312
 
 CONTENTS xxi 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII 
 
 A sleepy morning on the Dutch coast — The quiet Danish language, the mild 
 Danes, the little custom-house, and half a dozen people to be examined — 
 Visit to Sir Edmund and Lady Fane at the British Legation at Copen- 
 hagen — Harvest service at St. Alban's — Visit to the Imperial yacht 
 Pole Star — Call at Bernstorf Castle — Visit to Sir Francis and Lady 
 Pakenham at the Legation, Stockholm — The " Skanza," a remarkaljle 
 collection — Germany's war monuments — "Den tapferen Sohnnen der 
 Vaterland" ..... Pages 313-321 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX 
 
 Bordeaux— Miles of claret — A friendly German whistles "Soldiers of the 
 Queen" — The German Emperor, our ever faithful and valued friend, 
 salutes the British flag — Visit to Sir Frank Lascelles at the British 
 Embassy, Berlin — The silent Russian frontier, the gate to the Far East — 
 Trans-Siberian and trans-Caspian railway works at Riga — Effect of 
 Cossack whips in a Russian riot — Service in the Russian cathedral at 
 Riga — Posting the guard on the Russian frontier of two thousand miles — 
 At Geok Tepe with Skobeleff — Visit to Sir Edmund and Lady Monson 
 at the Embassy for Paris Conference — The Borghese rooms at the 
 Embassy — The Paris Exhibition of 19CX) — Completion of Mr. Street's 
 church at Lausanne — The Territet-Montreux-Clarens-Vevey world — A 
 run into Brittany — Effect of " Vive la France " upon drowning German 
 — " I knew the Colonel would soon put things to rights ! " — Confirmation 
 at Davos in 48° of frost — An eye-witness of the assassination of the 
 Empress of Austria at Geneva — The Empress Frederick's last illness — 
 Kind invitation to visit her at Kronberg — Fifteenth annual Conference at 
 Antwerp — The proposed new English church . . . 322-336 
 
 CHAPTER XXX 
 
 Start for Russia — Count Biilow speaks of our soldiers as " wissen zu sterben " 
 — Sixteenth annual Conference at Petersburg — Lenten music in Russian 
 churches — "Pierced by a supreme note of pain" — Visit to the new 
 cathedral being built upon the spot where Alexander II was assassinated : 
 an ecclesiastical wonder of the world — Audience with the Empress of 
 Russia at the Winter Palace — Bariatinsky's opinion of Port Arthur — 
 Moscow riots — Nine hundred university students locked up — An English 
 relic of Napoleon's invasion of Russia — Start of the trans-Siberian train 
 upon its six thousand miles to the Pacific — Exchanging calls upon a long 
 journey in a Russian railway train — The oil of the engine freezes — 
 Crossing of twelve historical rivers on one episcopal visitation — Zygmund 
 Moczarska gets himself imprisoned in the fortress of Warsaw — Count 
 Apponyi shows the new Houses of Parliament at Buda-Pesth — Professor 
 Vambery, the Central Asian traveller — His opinion upon Russia: "She 
 has swallowed a large portion of the world, but she cannot digest it" — 
 Buss und Bet Tag," first and foremost — England's good friend the 
 Hungarian Premier, Count Szel— A miracle of terrible hixurj-— Visit to
 
 xii CONTENTS 
 
 Sir Francis and Lady Plunkett at Vienna— Chapel in the Embassy much 
 improved — Sir Moses Montefiore's travelling coach — Via Prague through 
 the Saxon Switzerland to Dresden — Visit to Lord and Lady Gough at 
 the Legation, Dresden — " England without a murmur breaks her gigantic 
 money-box" — "Let our finances perish rather than our prestige" — A 
 superb spectacle of constancy — Leipzig a city of many interests — Weimar 
 — "Gott war mit uns"— Confirmation of English boys of Heidelberg 
 colleges — Dedication of English church at Aixda-Chapelle— And conse- 
 cration of Christ Church, Brussels — Visit to Sedan, Bazeilles— Donchery 
 — "La niaison de la derniere cartouche" — The weaver's cottage — " Le 
 veritable escalier par lequel I'Empereur et M. Bismarck firent I'ascente " 
 — Visit to Sir Edmund and Lady Monson at the Paris Embassy — Conse- 
 cration of church at Chateau d'Oex . . . Pages 337-362 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI 
 
 Scandinavia — The Santi route from Stavanger to Odde— Confirmation ir 
 the much-improved church at Christiania — A joint of bear for dinner — 
 The first landing of Queen Alexandra in Denmark after her coronation — 
 Queen Alexandra greets her English subjects — The Danish Kiel comparec 
 with the German Kiel of 1902 — The Schleswig " Broads" — Grand Duke 
 of Oldenburg's Schlciss at Eutin — Lubeck and its glorious antiquities — 
 Hans Memling's gems — Sunday service for the English at Schwerin — 
 Fredericksruhe and Prince Bismarck — Boer generals at Utrecht — Kriiger's 
 house at Hilversum ..... 363-3?? 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII 
 
 Bay of Biscay chaplaincies — Nantes — Place Mareuil and Bluebeard — The 
 Roman amphitheatre, the sights of Bordeaux — A run across the Bidassoa 
 to Font Arabia in Spain — Mealless, wayworn, and sore distressed — On 
 the track of the German army from Saarbriick to Metz — Seventeenth 
 annual Conference at Baden — Interview with the Grand Duke and 
 Duchess — Dedication of English church at Sierre — American gathering 
 at Zurich on Independence Day — Innsbruck, Maximilian's tomb — The 
 Empress Josephine's Hotel at Aix-la-Chapelle — A typical German 
 secondary school ...... 378-387 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII 
 
 Sir Henry and Lady Howard's reception at the Hague to meet Prince 
 Henry of the Netherlands — Berlin — Conversations with Sir Frank 
 Lascelles — A visit to the British Legation at Dresden — Last visit to the 
 Monsons at the Paris Embassy — Seventeen years of hospitality and kind- 
 ness — Eighteenth annual Conference at Zurich — Visit to Sir Constantine 
 Phipps at the British Legation at Brussels — Dedication of windows in the 
 English church at Homburg .... 388-392
 
 CONTENTS x^iii 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV 
 
 Dantzig, K6nigsberg-A night in the lock-up at Wirballen on the Russian 
 frontier— News from the war in the Far East— Battle of Mukden-A 
 dismal journey in a derelict train to Libau-Experiences of an English 
 boy in Russia-Departure of Russian fleets from Libau-Bilderlingshof 
 and the frozen Baltic-A visit to Maxim Gorky-His experience in the 
 fortress of SS. Peter and Paul- His share in "Red Sunday''— His 
 opinion of the war -His literary work-His respect for and love of 
 England— Pobiedonostzeff— Riga in revolt— Cossacks quartered in the 
 factories-Attempt on life of Maximovitch-Rebellion spreading over 
 Lithuania and Courland-St. Petersburg- Its attitude during the war 
 and the revolution-The place where Plehve was assassinated-Journey 
 to Warsaw— A Russian view of India and possible invasion— Warsaw a 
 hornet's nest— Attempt on life of Chief of Police— Lodz, Marki, etc.— 
 Poland and its condition— A Polish funeral— Departure from Warsaw— 
 The frontier station of Alexandrowo- How it was guarded— A for- 
 midable adieu to the land of Cossacks and bombs-A Swedish country 
 house . . r> 
 
 Pages 393-424 
 
 INDEX . 
 
 • 425-437
 
 ■ TWENTY YEARS 
 
 OF 
 
 CONTINENTAL WORK 
 AND TRAVEL 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 First visit to the Continent upon chaplaincy work — Work in Paris — Effects of the 
 "Commune" at Neuilly and Paris generally — The wounded of the Franco- 
 German War in the salons at Versailles — Compiegne as the imperial family 
 left it — Belgium. 
 
 MY first visit to the Continent, preceding the twenty years of 
 work and travel which followed, was at the request of Bishop 
 Jackson, of London. It was by no means an eventful one, but as I 
 think it well to touch upon each, expanding upon the more interest- 
 ing of my journeys, I will not altogether omit this, though it lay over 
 near and familiar ground. 
 
 I left England on 13 April, 1882. Confirming at Boulogne en 
 route, I reached Paris, and on Sunday preached in the Embassy 
 Church on behalf of that continental bishopric, which four years 
 later Bishop Temple asked me to take. Lord Lyons and his diplo- 
 matic staff were present, as was also the Duke of Connaught, who 
 was staying at the Embassy. In the afternoon I confirmed seventy 
 candidates, dining in the evening with Professor Yeatman at Neuilly. 
 This property formerly belonged to the Orleans family, was con- 
 fiscated at the fall of the monarchy in 1848, and the family recently 
 indemnified in part, but far below its value. Professor Yeatman's 
 house was taken as the headquarters of the Commune in 187 1, 
 and as such drew upon it the fire of the batteries at Versailles. 
 No less than forty unexploded bombs were picked up in the 
 B
 
 2 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1882 
 
 garden and premises after the siege of Paris. One only struck 
 the house and carried away the corner. A specimen was brought 
 up out of the cellar for me to see. These details do not say much 
 for the material or the aim of the Communists. The house was 
 beautifully furnished and the cellar well stocked when Professor 
 Yeatman shut it up and retired to England upon the outbreak of 
 the war. Upon his return he found that the head of the Commune 
 and his staff had gutted the cellar, but in no way injured the 
 furniture. When the Versailles troops entered Paris they broke down 
 the wall at the back of the house and rushed upon it. The leader 
 of the Commune fled out in front, and was shot under a tree which 
 was pointed out to me. These incidents were fresh in the minds of 
 the Parisians then, for they were comparatively recent, and Paris 
 bore many terrible traces of the war, the scars of which are scarcely 
 visible now to the visitor. They are therefore of interest, when so 
 few of these traces are left except the burnt palace of St. Cloud. I 
 went out to Versailles, where I confirmed in our little church, and 
 afterwards went over the Palace with Admiral Englefield and his 
 wife, who have resided at Versailles for many years. They were 
 there during the German occupation, and visited daily the wounded 
 German officers who were laid with hundreds of their fellow- 
 countrymen in the halls and salons of the chateau. Admiral 
 Englefield told me that he had seen double rows of wounded lying 
 on each side of the various state rooms through which we passed, 
 and that the beautiful parqueterie floors reeked with blood. The 
 wounded had nothing to look upon but the endless battle pieces of 
 Horace Vernet and other artists, and used to say it was a terrible 
 subject to be obliged to look at, and one of which they had seen 
 too much in stern reality. 
 
 In the chapel the place was pointed out where the Emperor and 
 the Crown Prince of Germany used to sit at the services. Beneath 
 that chapel which carries upon its front " A toutes les gloires de 
 France," instead of " To the glory of God," there, outside, under 
 those very words, stood the Emperor William I during the siege of 
 Paris, when its starving inhabitants were eating cats and rats, and 
 placing the crown of Charlemagne upon his head, proclaimed the 
 German Empire. "Them that honour me I will honour ; and those 
 that despise me I will lightly esteem." We wandered through the 
 gardens ; St. Cloud is still a ruin. It was burnt because the light 
 upon the windows drew the fire from Fort Valerien. The English
 
 i882] COMPIEGNE AND BRUSSELS 3 
 
 chaplain of Paris assisted in getting the State documents out of the 
 burning palace. 
 
 Upon returning to Paris I walked through the Place de la 
 Concorde and down to the ruined Tuileries. I remembered them 
 as a boy, so bright and beautiful, as also St. Cloud, in all the glory of 
 the second empire, now a charred black skeleton from which the 
 desolate window openings look out weirdly as from empty sockets. 
 The column in the Place Vendome was restored, and the new 
 Hotel de Ville rapidly progressing. 
 
 From Paris I went to Compiegne, where I confirmed in the 
 beautiful little church built by the Dowager Lady Barrington. It is 
 situated in one of the many fine avenues which abound in this right 
 royal forest. 
 
 On passing the bridge over the Oise the tower was pointed out to 
 me upon the river bank in which Joan of Arc was taken. The 
 chateau at Compiegne was built, as was also Versailles, by Louis XIV. 
 The keepers of the chateau, now a national museum, are Im- 
 perialists, and it was not difficult to discern that they were. The 
 rooms were much as the Emperor and Empress left them at the 
 outbreak of the Franco-German War. His bedroom and hers (next 
 to the Prince Imperial's), with the bath, jugs, and basins just as 
 when in use. Upon a circular inlaid marble table in the Prince 
 Imperial's room a date was scratched by the boy when last at 
 Compiegne, 18 December, 1868. He was never there after that, 
 though his parents were. The room is pointed out which the 
 German Emperor used when, as King of Prussia, he visited the 
 French Emperor; but, added the old attendant, "when he came 
 this last time he would have nothing to do with fine rooms : he had 
 his little iron camp-bed put in here," and he opened the door of 
 a small dressing-room and pointed into it. This was the Emperor 
 Napoleon's favourite hunting chateau, and here it was that he gave the 
 famous autumn hunting parties, and entertained so many crowned 
 heads and illustrious personages. It was here that he consulted 
 with Count Cavour upon French poUcy in Italy, and pledged him- 
 self to the Italian nation. The view from the terrace of the main 
 avenue, which stretches away up and down the grassy hills for miles, 
 is very fine. The forests of Compiegne and Chantilly join, and are 
 very extensive. 
 
 From Paris I went to Brussels, and confirmed the Brussels, 
 Bruges, and Ghent candidates in the Church of the Resurrection,
 
 4 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1882 
 
 and met Sir Savile Lumley, of the British Legation, afterwards at 
 lunch. The new " Palais de Justice " was then nearly finished : 
 a wonderful and magnificent building in Grecian style, of black 
 Belgian marble, upon a fine situ dominating all Brussels, well 
 called the architectural wonder of the century. 
 
 From Brussels I travelled to Antwerp, where I confirmed in a 
 dreary building called a church. I am thankful to be able to record 
 that we are erecting a building in Antwerp worthy of our Church 
 and nation, which is to cost ^10,000. I spent the day with Consul- 
 General Grattan, a pleasant and cultivated companion, who knows 
 much of art, and with whom I enjoyed much artistic conversation 
 over the Antwerp pictures. I visited with him the ancient house 
 now used as a museum. Here is shown Plantin's printing apparatus, 
 one of the first ever made. Here also are many instruments of 
 Spanish torture, etc. 
 
 I left Antwerp via Flushing for Queenborough, arriving back in 
 England on 21 April.
 
 CHAPTER II 
 
 Prince Napoleon's arrest in Paris— Dr. Evans's account of the escape of the 
 Empress Eugenie— New frontier at Deutsch-Avricourt— Strasburg Cathedral 
 damaged by the war— Freiburg in Baden— Audience of Prince Louis of Hesse 
 in Darmstadt — Prince Louis and Princesses attend confirmation — Princess 
 Alice's mausoleum— Dresden— Berlin : first audience with Crown Princess- 
 Confirmation in Mon Bijou Palace Chapel — Sir Savile Lumley's reception at 
 Brussels — Confirmation in Holland. 
 
 BISHOP JACKSON, of London, asked me again in March, 
 1883, to take continental confirmations for him in Paris, 
 Dresden, Berlin, etc., and I left England for that purpose on 
 30 March of that year. 
 
 I stayed upon this occasion at a house in the Avenue d'Antin, in 
 Paris, within a few doors of Prince Napoleon's house, in which his 
 arrest had recently taken place. All was done so quietly that few 
 of the inhabitants in the neighbouring houses knew what was being 
 done. He was conveyed to the conciergerie. 
 
 After a large confirmation in the Embassy Church I met at 
 luncheon Mr. Evans, brother of Dr. Evans, who effected the escape 
 of the Empress Eugenie from Paris after Sedan. He told me how 
 his brother had compassed it. The Empress, being advised to quit 
 the Tuileries in consequence of the popular feeling against the 
 Emperor and herself, did so by a side entrance. In passing 
 through the crowd a small boy recognized her, and cried, " Voila 
 rimperatrice ! " She escaped, however, into the crowd amidst 
 cries of " a la guillotine." Taking a voiture, she drove some dis- 
 tance towards Dr. Evans's house, who had been in the habit of 
 doing confidential work for the Court. Changing voitures in order 
 to break the continuity of the journey, she reached the house deeply 
 veiled. Upon appearing in Dr. Evans's presence, the Empress lifted 
 her veil, and discovering herself told her story. Dr. Evans bade 
 her rest at his house while he prepared the way to take her out at 
 one of the western barriers en route to the coast. Having several
 
 6 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1883 
 
 patients outside Paris, and being well known by the gendarmes who 
 kept the barriers, he drove out by one of them, leaning from the 
 carriage window as he passed, and telling the officials the latest 
 news of what was passing in the city. He added that he would 
 make further visits to patients in that direction during the afternoon 
 and evening, and would bring with him each time the latest 
 bulletins of the progress of the Revolution. 
 
 During the afternoon two of the best horses in his stables were 
 harnessed to a close carriage in which the Empress, attended by a 
 lady and Dr. Evans, was driven towards the barrier. Upon nearing 
 it. Dr. Evans bade Her Majesty lean back as far as possible while he 
 stood up, and filling the window with his body threw out papers, 
 and called out the latest news to the gendarmerie. 
 
 Dr. Evans having previously instructed his coachman to lash the 
 horses into a gallop upon reaching the barrier under colour of 
 the urgency of a professional visit, they were soon beyond all fear of 
 recognition and on their way to the coast. The horses were driven 
 till they could go no further, and then the Empress, disguised as a 
 Normandy peasant in a country cart, completed her journey, and 
 reached Dieppe. Here she found Sir John Burgoyne's yacht, and 
 was taken on board, unknown, it is said, till the voyage to England 
 had commenced. 
 
 Upon this occasion I preached in the Embassy Church for the 
 restoration fund, Lord Lyons and the Corps Diplomatique being 
 present. In the afternoon I confirmed at Versailles, and took the 
 night express to Strasburg. At Deutsch-Avricourt, the new frontier, 
 we left the French and entered the German train, no through 
 carriages running then between the two countries ; things were still 
 too strained. 
 
 Deutsch-Avricourt is quite a new township, which has sprung up 
 on the frontier of Alsace since the war. It stands on a great open 
 plain, a wide champaign country stretching towards France proper. 
 A small rivulet forms the boundary — Bismarck's scientific frontier, 
 backed by the forests and rough passes of the Vosges. 
 
 The cathedral of Strasburg was a good deal damaged during the 
 siege. I ascended to the hut upon the unfinished tower and looked 
 at the results of shot and shell. Much of the fine, delicate work 
 had been renewed, the whole upper portion of the structure showing 
 signs of the German guns. The interior bore no marks of the 
 siege. The mechanical clock, visited by all tourists, was not
 
 1883] AUDIENCE OF PRINCE LOUIS OK HESSE 7 
 
 touched. One shell burst into the nave roof over the organ and 
 twisted up the pipes like corkscrews. The city has increased under 
 German industry ; many large warehouses, buildings, and dwelling- 
 houses have grown out into the suburbs. The storks seemed to 
 have diminished in numbers, but it was still early for them. 
 
 From Strasburg I went to Freiburg, in Schwartzwald, always 
 beautiful in itself, as are also its environs, whichever way is taken, 
 the wildest and most solitary depths of both Vosges and Black 
 Forest hills being reached easily in the day. The cathedral — a 
 highly ornate instance of pure Gothic — the Archbishop's Palace, 
 and the Rathhaus are the main features of the Dom Platz. The 
 open-work stone spire is unique. Major Roberts, who had an 
 establishment here for army pupils, was at that date the best guide 
 to the building, and with him I had the advantage of seeing all 
 from west to east. The porch is a history and study in itself. 
 Upon the buttresses at the west end are rude figures and characters 
 denoting the various weights and measures current in the Black 
 Forest district. Placed as they are in such a prominent part of the 
 market-place, they must have rendered great service to the country 
 people. They are supposed to be very old, many of them being 
 records of weights and measures now obsolete. A reredos stands 
 over a small altar, from which Mr. Baring-Gould evidently copied 
 that which he gave to the parish church at Staverton, in 1 )evonshire. 
 The organ was given by Sir John Sutton. 
 
 After confirming at Heidelberg I passed on to Darmstadt. Here 
 Prince Louis of Hesse had arranged for an audience with me upon 
 the subject of the continental bishopric. I went to tl>e New Palace 
 in the morning. It was a fete day, being Princess Victoria's birth- 
 day. The band was playing in the garden below. I was ushered 
 through several handsome rooms by the Hofmarschal, into one 
 which looked very English, showing the English hand and arrange- 
 ment of the late Princess Alice. I was told afterwards that it was 
 her room. After a short time the Prince, a man of middle age, 
 short, stout, and light-haired, came in ; he was not in uniform, which 
 for a German was remarkable. He received me most kindly, and 
 we sat and talked for some time upon the subject of the continental 
 bishopric. I asked him to give me a letter recommending the 
 scheme. This he promised to do. He said he could not head the 
 Darmstadt subscription list, adding, with a smile, "I must not be 
 too English, you know." He talked of the late chaplain, Moore,
 
 8 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1883 
 
 my college friend, who had recently died. The Prince said he was 
 very busy that day, but would be present at the confirmation in the 
 afternoon, if he possibly could. He spoke of his motherless 
 children, and I told him that I had seven to bring up without 
 any help. He passed his hand across his forehead, and exclaimed, 
 " Ach, Gott ! " holding it there, and covering his face for a few 
 moments as if contemplating his own loss in mine. I confirmed in 
 the chapel of the old Palace, from one of the windows of which the 
 little Prince fell and was killed. The chapel is, after its style, quite 
 a fine building, and was fairly well filled. Prince Louis and two of 
 the Princesses were present, occupying the royal gallery at the west 
 end, which is not his custom, and which much pleased the English. 
 Most of the candidates were young fellows from Colonels Wilkinson 
 and Shaw's army institution. 
 
 After the service I drove out to Princess Alice's mausoleum. 
 It is approached by a very simple rural entrance, through a white 
 gate into an enclosure. A homely drive of about a quarter of a 
 mile brings you to a fir wood, in the midst of which stands the 
 mausoleum. It is a Greek building in three portions, connected 
 by columned wings. That to the left contains the beautiful recum- 
 bent figure of the Princess by Boehm. She holds at her side the 
 little child from whom she caught diphtheria. The likeness to the 
 Princess, and through her to her mother, the Queen, is very striking. 
 The domed roof is well decorated and gilded, as are the walls. 
 
 In the central portion of the mausoleum stands the coffin of the 
 Princess, covered with wreaths, that placed by Queen Victoria when 
 last at Darmstadt being very conspicuous. It is placed upon the 
 floor, as deposited on the day of the funeral, and wrapped at the 
 Princess's own wish in the Union Jack. The Queen is giving a 
 sarcophagus, in which it will finally rest. Darmstadt is not an 
 interesting place, though the neighbouring hills of the Landstrasse 
 are very pretty. From the mausoleum a beautiful view is obtained. 
 
 I was present in the evening at a meeting on behalf of the 
 bishopric, which was well attended. 
 
 On my way to Dresden I made a short stay at Frankfort and re- 
 freshed my memory with the quaint parts of the old city. The 
 Ghetto, or Jews' quarter, has disappeared to make way for modern 
 streets. My way to Dresden lay through the somewhat desolate 
 but deeply interesting Thuringerwald, with all its associations of 
 our Boniface and his missionaries, who brought Christianity from
 
 i883] AUDIENCE WITH THE CROWN PRINCESS 9 
 
 Devonshire to the wild tribes inhabiting these vast wastes, rolling 
 hills, and forests. Martyred by Frisians, he lies buried at Fulda, 
 on the banks of the river of that name. Passing Erfurt, Gotha, 
 Weimar, and Leipzig, Dresden was reached after a long day's 
 travelling from Darmstadt. Here I preached and confirmed in the 
 beautiful church built by Mrs. Goschen to the memory of her 
 husband, who was a Saxon. It is well designed, well built, and 
 well appointed, the best representation of the Anglican church I had 
 yet seen on the Continent. On the Sunday afternoon I walked 
 with Mr. Gilderdale, our excellent chaplain, up to the Moreau 
 monument above the city, from which a fine view is obtained of 
 Dresden, with the Elbe flowing through it, and away to the Saxon 
 Switzerland, still touched by the winter's snow. Upon the occasion 
 of this first visit to Dresden I began a long series of study in the 
 picture galleries. The wealth of art far surpassed all that I had con- 
 ceived. Every school is not only represented, but represented fre- 
 quently withgems of the highest order — Claudes, Ruysdaels,Holbeins, 
 Raphaels, Murillos, Canalettos, Rembrandts — a list of artists far too 
 long to enumerate, a study for weeks had one the time to devote to 
 it. At a reception I met many English and Americans, amongst 
 them Count Bernstorff's son, whose father represented Germany at 
 our Court. Attended a meeting afterwards for the continental 
 bishopric. 
 
 I left Dresden for Berlin on 9 April, and on the loth went to the 
 Crown Prince's palace for an audience with the Crown Princess, 
 who wished to see me upon the subject of the proposed continental 
 bishopric. I was received at the bottom of the great staircase by 
 Count Seckendorf, who was upon the Crown Prince's staff in the 
 Franco-German War, and whom Dr. Russell, The Times correspond- 
 ent, described as " a good specimen of a young German nobleman," 
 and so he was. He conducted me upstairs till we arrived at a pair of 
 folding doors. These admitted us to a large salon, down which the 
 Crown Princess advanced, greeted me most cordially, and imme- 
 diately began speaking of my mission to Germany and Berlin. She 
 was short, and her profile almost identical with that of her mother. 
 She had not given audience to any one for several days, having 
 suffered much from neuralgia. It was most kind of her, therefore, 
 to see me. She told me that the Emperor had given a site for an 
 English church, and I said I hoped that when built the Berlin 
 church would be as good as that at Dresden. " I am sure," she
 
 lo CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1883 
 
 said, with some empressement, " I hope so ; we need something 
 better than we have." The Crown Princess is a warm adherent of 
 our Church, and attends the Enghsh service every Sunday evening. 
 Her Imperial Highness, in speaking of the bishopric, said that we 
 must not speak of it in Germany in connexion with Heligoland ; 
 that that title must not be given to the see. She spoke much of 
 England, and after about a quarter of an hour I made a movement 
 to take my leave, but she interrupted my intention, and seemed 
 anxious to continue our conversation about the old country. Think- 
 ing I had trespassed long enough upon her time, I moved several 
 times towards the door, but each time she continued the conversa- 
 tion, and at last said, "Now you must see the children." She 
 called an attendant, and ordered them to be sent for, but they were 
 out, and I missed the pleasure. 
 
 A fairly large congregation at the confirmation in the Mon Bijou 
 Palace chapel, considering the smallness of the English community, 
 which I was told did not number 150. The colony of English 
 and Americans has, however, much increased since those days. 
 The Crown Princess would have been present, but she told me that 
 she had a State engagement, which could not possibly be cancelled. 
 
 At lunch I met Marenski, the Berlin missionary from Botsabelo, 
 in the Transvaal, whom I visited when in South Africa. He told 
 me that he had been driven out by the Boers after the retrocession 
 of that country, and was unable to return because of his loyalty to 
 the English Government during our rule. The Boers told him that 
 should any rising take place amongst the natives in his district they 
 would hold him responsible for it with his life. Pretoria, he said, 
 was ruined as a place of commerce by Gladstone's action, and that 
 the country was in a most wretched condition. Turning to me he 
 added, bitterly, " And we have to thank England for all this." I 
 replied that he must not call Mr. Gladstone and his Government 
 " England." 
 
 As I was leaving Berlin for Brussels, a telegram was put into my 
 hands from the chaplain of Weimar, stating that the Grand Duke of 
 Saxe-Weimar (the Empress Augusta's brother) wished to see me 
 upon English Church matters. He was very friendly to us, and 
 desired to have an English church built at Weimar. It was im- 
 possible for me to return then, for I was advertised to be in 
 Brussels for confirmation on the 1 2th of that month. I communi- 
 cated this to the Grand Duke a few days later, and was sorry to
 
 '883] SIR SAVILE LUMLEY ii 
 
 find that he had waited in all the afternoon, hoping to sec me. 1 
 wrote at once regretting this, and offering to make a special journey 
 to Weimar later on, to which he replied that I must not think of 
 doing so. 
 
 From Berlin I travelled through the night by Cologne to Brussels, 
 where I confirmed and held a meeting upon the bishopric question. 
 The Holland candidates were asked to come to Brussels for this 
 confirmation, but objected on the plea of distance, and I did not 
 blame them. This was a strong argument in favour of a bishopric. 
 To bring a party of boys and girls from one kingdom to another, 
 a long day's journey by rail, two nights at an hotel, and a long 
 return journey on the third day, who could reasonably expect it of 
 them ? I wrote at once and promised to visit Holland specially for 
 the purpose. 
 
 Sir Savile Lumley, of the British Legation in Brussels, had 
 written to Berlin asking me to attend a reception, preceded by a 
 dinner-party, on the occasion of my visit. All was exceedingly well 
 done upon a large and most hospitable scale. Sir Savile is a most 
 cultivated man. He paints in oils extremely well. Several large 
 pictures by himself of Russian subjects, painted when attached to 
 the Embassy at Petersburg, hang in one of the drawing-rooms. I 
 had much conversation with him about the bishopric, and found 
 him most anxious to help in Church matters. He sustained the 
 honour and dignity of our Court and country exceedingly well at 
 Brussels, and was much missed when he left for Rome. 
 
 I was to have had an interview with the King of the Belgians 
 about the bishopric, but at the last moment came a letter to say 
 that he was ill in bed, and could see no one for some days. I was 
 sorry to miss this audience, as the king is much interested in Africa, 
 and is always glad to see and talk with one who knows that 
 country. 
 
 From Brussels I went to Bruges and confirmed, holding there 
 also a meeting about the bishopric. A large reception of Bruges 
 English closed, as usual, the day. From Bruges, which is too well 
 known to describe, I crossed to England via Ostend. 
 
 I crossed again on 17 April to Holland, according to promise, 
 and confirmed at the Hague, Amsterdam, and Rotterdam, holding 
 a bishopric meeting at the latter place.
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 Chantilly— Louis Philippe's coachman— Confirmation of stable-lads and jockeys 
 — Audience with Empress Augusta of Germany at Baden— English girl 
 travels from Warsaw to Stuttgart to obtain her confirmation— Growing need 
 of continental bishopric. 
 
 MY third, fourth, and fifth journeys were so short, and contain 
 so little of interest, that I put them together for what they 
 may be worth. 
 
 I crossed to Boulogne 26 May, 1883, by night-boat, arriving 
 3 a.m. A little sleep, and then up for day's work. The church 
 (Holy Trinity) in which I confirmed and preached was built as 
 a church of the Capuchins and consecrated by Claude Dormy, 
 twenty-second Bishop of Boulogne, in 1620. The next day I spoke 
 at a well-attended bishopric meeting, and went on in the afternoon 
 to Chantilly. I walked to the Due d'Aumale's beautiful chateau 
 across the racecourse, and saw the great carp under the bridge 
 which the French netted out at the approach of the Germans, and 
 concealed in a pond in the forest lest they should be eaten. The 
 Due d'Aumale had abandoned his chateau for political reasons, and 
 gone to live upon his Sicilian property. The Comte de Paris and 
 Due D'Orleans had houses on the estate. As I sat with the 
 chaplain at the entrance to the forest, the Due d'Aumale's chief of 
 the stables passed us with his son. The former was a man of some 
 sixty-five years. He was a boy when his old master, Louis Philippe, 
 fled from Paris, and accompanied him, his father being then in the 
 position which he has since occupied as head of the stables. The 
 office had been in the family for several generations, and seemed 
 likely to remain there. All the English community here is in one 
 way or other connected with the racing-stables, perhaps a thousand 
 in all, with their families, trainers, stablemen, boys, and jockeys. 
 With Paris within an hour, and the high rate of wages, the young 
 fellows here are very difficult to control. The confirmation con- 
 sisted mostly of these stable-lads. The church here is well
 
 1883] THE EMPRESS AUGUSTA 13 
 
 constructed and church-like, built through the efforts of Lord 
 Cowley, who hired the Duke's chateau when Ambassador at Paris. 
 From Chantilly I went to Calais and confirmed, crossing afterwards 
 to England. 
 
 On 23 June of this year I crossed to Dieppe for confirmation 
 work there, preaching on the following Sunday in All Saints', tlie 
 church Lord Salisbury and his family attend when at Chalet Cecil. 
 Lord Salisbury was not at Dieppe, but Lady Maud and Lord Hugh 
 were staying at one of the hotels. I went on the Monday to call, 
 and spent some time with them. In the afternoon I attended a 
 meeting on behalf of the bishopric. Lord Salisbury wrote after- 
 wards, promising conditionally ;^5oo. On the Tuesday I left 
 Dieppe, crossing to Newhaven with Lord Hugh and Lady Maud— 
 now Lady Selborne— who was on her way to her marriage with 
 Lord Wolmer. 
 
 On 18 October of this year I visited Baden-Baden. The Ger- 
 manic monument, opposite Bingen, had just been unveiled by the 
 German Emperor in the presence of all the German Princes at 
 a great national gathering, which closed the German autumn 
 manoeuvres. It was a great historical event, which I was sorry to 
 miss. I have fully described this Denkmal in another part of these 
 records. The following Sunday I preached at Baden for the 
 continental bishopric, the Empress Augusta of Germany being 
 present. After service a letter was handed to me from the Countess 
 of Brandenberg to say that the Empress had been much interested 
 in what I had said, and wished to see me on the Tuesday following. 
 She could not say Monday, because the Emperor was leaving on 
 that day for Berlin, and was to take leave of the Grand Duchy of 
 Baden ofificials, I replied that I was leaving for Stuttgart on that 
 day for a confirmation already fixed. A reply came that the Empress 
 would arrange an audience for Monday evening. I visited our 
 Queen's pretty little house which was left to her by her half-sister. 
 Princess Hohenlohe, and where from time to time she stayed. 
 During the revolution of 1848 the Queen was very kind to her, 
 and in token of gratitude she left her this house and garden. It is 
 prettily situated, and very retired. The Queen's favourite walk, 
 trellised and covered with roses, commands a fine view of the 
 Rhine on towards Strasburg. 
 
 About 6.30 p.m. on Monday, 22 October, I went to the audience, 
 and was introduced into the presence of the Empress by the
 
 14 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1883 
 
 Hofmarschal. Her Majesty was sitting in a wheel-chair dressed for 
 dinner, at the end of a small but pretty room, full of flowers, palms, 
 and ferns. She received me most kindly, and began to talk of the 
 bishopric scheme, expressing herself as much interested in it. " I 
 consider myself of your Church," she said, " being first drawn to it 
 by Queen Adelaide, my dear friend. We used to attend the English 
 church together at Hanover when staying at Herrenhausen. I 
 always felt that the Church of so good a woman might well be my 
 Church also." She spoke with sorrow of the freethinking {frcisinnig) 
 rationalism of the German Church. Then of our Queen and her 
 family, " our good Queen," as she called her, that she never came 
 to see her, while she was not able to go to England, though often 
 asked to do so. We then talked of the Franco-German War. I 
 said that the first European news I received in Africa was that the 
 French Emperor was a prisoner. She spoke with terrible earnest- 
 ness of it as " that dreadful war," and hoped she might never see its 
 like again. I spoke of my visit to BerUn, and of my interview with 
 the Crown Princess in April. She said she had heard of it, and 
 wished I had come to see her also. We then talked of the church 
 at Weimar. I said that her brother the Grand Duke had telegraphed 
 to me when I was leaving Berlin asking me to see him upon the 
 subject of an English church at Weimar. She replied that she should 
 soon see her brother, and would tell him what I had said, and that she 
 knew he would be glad to see me whenever I could go there. Having 
 stayed about twenty minutes I moved to go, saying that I must not 
 tire Her Majesty. I thought the Empress looking very aged and 
 feeble, and it was evidently a great effort to her, for she talked very 
 slowly, and in a very low soft voice. The evening was close, and 
 she seemed to feel the heat. Later in the evening came a letter 
 from one of the Grand Duchess of Baden's ladies asking me if 
 I could see her the next morning; but as I was leaving early I 
 could not do so. After the audience I attended and spoke at a 
 bishopric meeting in the kursaal. From Baden I went to Stuttgart, 
 and confirmed in our very pretty, well-built, and well-arranged 
 church. Among the candidates was a very interesting case — a girl 
 who had come with her mother the previous winter from Warsaw to 
 Stuttgart, in very severe weather, hearing that there was to be a 
 confirmation there. They waited at Stuttgart about three weeks, 
 were disappointed, no bishop coming for the purpose, and returned 
 to Warsaw. Hearing that I was coming this autumn, they left
 
 5 
 
 ^8831 RETURN TO ENGLAND 
 
 Warsaw again, and travelling to Stuttgart, were present upon this 
 occasion. The daughter would not rest satisfied until she had been 
 confirmed. This is further evidence of the need of a continental 
 bishop. This Warsaw family has been well known to me since 
 The members of it whom I have confirmed have, with their good 
 mother, grown into my many continental friends. From Stuttgart 
 I returned to England.
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 Libramont— After Sedan— The fallen Emperor — Triers— Ems— The Kaiser's 
 Stein—" 13 Jiili, 1870; 9 Uhr, 10 min ; morgen " — Denkmal on the Nieder- 
 wald— Night spent by a lady on Mont Blanc— Rapid increase of chaplaincies 
 in Switzerland. 
 
 IN June and July, 1886, Bishop Titcomb being too ill to travel, 
 I did his work for him along the Rhine and in Switzerland, 
 travelling by way of Brussels and Luxemburg. This route passes 
 the wa;yside station of Libramont, the highest point of the Chemin 
 de fer de I'Etat Beige. Few travellers as they sweep past this 
 station, to and from Ostend and Basle, know its interesting history. 
 I never pass it without recalling that interest. It was the objective 
 of Dr. Russell's — the Times correspondent — remarkable ride so 
 graphically described by him in his Last Great War. He left 
 Sedan on 3 September, 1870, with his account of the battle of the 
 previous days, in order to take train at Libramont for Ostend and 
 London, no way then existing to England via Boulogne or Calais. 
 All is recounted to the Ufe. The ride through the victorious 
 German lines, past the masses and miles of festering bodies, infecting 
 the air that hot September, and frightening his horse. How he 
 evaded the challenging of sentinels, how he pressed on mile after 
 mile up and down the broken forest of the Ardennes to gain the 
 Belgian frontier, then on through Bouillon, and past the Hotel de 
 la Poste — the shelter of the fallen Emperor after the battle — in 
 order to reach Libramont in time to catch the 4 p.m. express to 
 Brussels. How he never would have reached it in time had not the 
 train been late owing to the war, being delayed by the crowds of 
 wounded picked up from station to station. His joy in seeing in 
 the distance the telegraph posts announcing the line at hand. How 
 the little roadside station was gorged with military— French soldiers, 
 who had laid down their arms, having fled to Belgian territory. How 
 every tongue was absorbed in the one great topic, the capitulation of 
 McMahon's army, numbering 86,000 men and officers, besides 14,000 
 
 16
 
 i886] TRIERS ,7 
 
 wounded, 550 guns, and 10,000 horses, to the King of Prussia, and 
 above all — news almost incredible— the capture of the Emperor 
 Napoleon. How he was told by hurrying, downcast Frenchmen of 
 the Emperor, under a German guard, having been hastily brought 
 along that same road by which he had come from Sedan to be 
 entrained at Libramont on his way to Wilhelmshohe, broken down, 
 unkempt, his moustaches no longer pointed and stiff, but limp and 
 downcast as himself. What a fall, what a scene, what a story to tell 
 next morning to London, to England, to the world through the 
 dispatches he was carrying ! 
 
 Truly Libramont is a station worth taking stock of by the 
 traveller. From here it is but a short run to Luxemburg. The 
 state of Luxemburg has local self-government under the King of 
 Holland, who is reigning Grand Duke, and forms part of the 
 German ZoUverein. These relations to Holland and Germany date 
 from 1866, when the fortifications were dismantled, and as a military 
 position it ceased to be a menace to either Belgium, France, or 
 Germany. 
 
 At Igel, near Trier, is a Roman pillar some seventy feet high, an 
 outpost of the wealth of Roman remains in that most interesting 
 city. Trier is not visited and studied as it deserves ; the multitude 
 of Swiss-going English and Americans either leave it to the east as 
 they rush from Brussels to Basle, or to the west as they plunge up 
 and down the Rhine by rail or boat. The cathedral is unique. It 
 was a Roman basilica, much of the Roman brickwork remaining. 
 The apsidal tribune at the west end seems left in nearly its original 
 condition ; the choir is later. Much of the north wall has been re- 
 built or refaced. All is much mixed outside. Coming out of the 
 cathedral, a German boy of some fourteen years ofTered his services 
 as a guide, and knew manifold more of the history of Treves and 
 its antiquities than a Bury St. Edmund's man of twice his age would 
 know of the shrine of King Edmund the Martyr and its surround- 
 ings, if he knew anything about such things at all. Close to the 
 cathedral is St. Laurence's Church, Early English, cruciform, and 
 well worth a visit on account of its interior. Then to the Roman 
 basilica, now used as a Lutheran church, a wonderful study again 
 of Roman brickwork, of which it is entirely built. The Roman 
 Kaiser's palace is a mere fragment of a fine Roman domestic structure. 
 The interior of the amphitheatre is much overgrown with shrubs and 
 bushes. The beast dens still plain and open in front, though 
 c
 
 i8 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1886 
 
 blocked with earth inside. The approaches to the arena and 
 galleries are still very perfect. It is not so large as that at Verona, 
 and seemed to me about the size of that at Pozzuoli, near Naples. 
 The baths by the Mosel are very extensive, the communications for 
 conveying hot air between the furnaces and the hypocausts unusually 
 large. This may be because most Roman baths are supplied with 
 hot spring water. Here there are no hot springs, the water supply 
 being conveyed from the Mosel. Adjoining the baths are remains 
 of a large Roman palace. The foundations of the alcoves in the walls 
 are supposed to have carried niches for statues, and may explain the 
 similar semicircular stonework at Brading, Isle of Wight, which was 
 taken for a semicircular footbath. Large portions of these baths 
 and Roman buildings are still unexplored, and being built over, as 
 at Bath, are likely to remain so. The piers of the Mosel bridge, 
 hard by, are Roman, and composed of very large stones. The last, 
 but by no means least, object of interest is the Roman Porta Nigra. 
 This is a grandly gigantic gateway, built of very large uncemented 
 stones, fastened with iron clamps. There is nothing like it else- 
 where, not even at Rome. Four stories high, with originally a tower 
 at either end, only one now remaining perfect. A most savage old 
 gateway this, which one can look upon by the hour with veneration, 
 and almost with awe. What scenes this grim old Porta Nigra must 
 have witnessed in the history of Gallia Belgica ; what wars and 
 commotions ; what marchings and counter-marchings ; what throbs 
 and throes of nations, ancient and modern; what comings and 
 goings of generations of men ; what upheavals and turning-points of 
 history ; what triumphs and defeats ; the last when Germany sent 
 her thousands and tens of thousands through this same Porta Nigra 
 to Metz, Sedan, and Paris, followed in the contrary direction by 
 thousands and tens of thousands of French prisoners and wounded 
 to the land of their exile. And the old Porta Nigra looks down 
 blackly and silently still, and will look on all other such scenes till 
 time shall be no more. 
 
 As I turned from looking at Porta Nigra, a detachment of hussars 
 passed. How well these Germans march, how strong, how regular, 
 how Teutonic ! What account could we give of them in England ? 
 Many were mere lads, but such straight, honest, good faces. What 
 a nation of soldiers it is ! Every man, young and old, and middle- 
 aged, carries himself as a soldier, for he either has been, or is, or 
 must one day be a soldier. Would it were so in this England of
 
 i886] THE KAISER'S STEIN ic, 
 
 ours! The army, its system and discipline, has made Germany 
 what it is, and would make England what she ought to be also, if we 
 did not ride our hobby, which we call " the liberty of the subject," 
 to death. The divisions or army corps of the Germati Army are 
 thus numbered. They begin upon the Russian frontier and count 
 westwards. The Rhine has three army corps. The regiment is 
 first named, and then the division of the army corps to which it 
 belongs. 
 
 From Trier I went to Ems, where we have a fairly good little 
 church. What most interested me at this water-drinking place was 
 the stone marking the spot where the old Kaiser Wilhelm gave his 
 decisive answer to, and then turned his back upon, the French 
 Ambassador Benedetti on 13 July, 1870. The stone is a foot square 
 or thereabouts. It stands at the end of a gravel walk ; the inscrip- 
 tion upon it is brief, but very significant, recording merely the date 
 and hour of the conversation, which resulted in the most awful war 
 Europe has ever witnessed: "13 Juli, 1870; 9 Uhr, 10 min : 
 morgen." That is all — the rest is left to the history of Modern 
 Europe. In about six weeks from that date the Emperor Napoleon 
 was a prisoner, his army broken, Paris in revolution, and the Empress 
 a fugitive in England. Was ever such a story ? 
 
 I took the opportunity of visiting and looking more closely at the 
 National War Monument opposite Bingen, to which reference was 
 made in the last chapter. It stands crowning the Niederwald, above 
 Riidesheim. In front of the stone base is a large bronze relief of 
 the German crowned heads and generals engaged in the war, the old 
 Kaiser William in the centre. On each side of this great bronze 
 relief stands a figure upon the corner of the stone basement. On 
 the left hand " War " blowing a trumpet, and on the right " Victory " 
 holding a palm. Beneath the four stanzas of " Die Wacht am 
 Rhein " stand the words : " Lieb Vaterland magst ruhe sein Fest 
 steht und treu die Wacht, die Wacht am Rhein ! " Long may the 
 words hold good ! 
 
 On the sides of the stone plinth which carries the bronze relief 
 are two very touching smaller bronzes in high relief, carrying life- 
 sized figures. One represents the departure for the war: wives, 
 children, and sweethearts wishing good-bye ; the other, the return 
 from war. They exhibit a strikingly beautiful contrast between the 
 grief of parting and the joy of meeting again, the perils and the 
 dangers past. The figure of the German mother giving her boy his
 
 20 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1886 
 
 sword and buckling it upon his waist is most pathetic ; the joyous- 
 ness of the children rushing out of the cottage and clinging round 
 the knees of fathers and brothers upon their return is equally so. 
 It is the affectionate, good home-life of these Germans that makes 
 them such a great, brave, and strong people. It tells its own tale of 
 unity, purity, and love in the family life, bringing down heaven's 
 blessing upon family, people, and country. Above all, stands an 
 enormous figure of Germania upon a lofty stone pediment, around 
 the sides of which are inscribed the various battles from Saarbriick 
 to Paris. A truly grand national Denkmal, overlooking the Rhine 
 for miles and miles, and away to the early battlefields of Alsace and 
 Lorraine, the countries wrested from France by Germany. Here it 
 stands to-day, where the statue of Drusus once stood, overlooking 
 the very spot on the grand old river where all the invasions of Gaul, 
 or rather to and from Gaul, have taken place. Below lie the Roman 
 remains at Riidesheim, still standing to mark Roman power and 
 invasion, now dominated by this splendid monument to modern 
 victories, memorializing a more terrible struggle than old Rome ever 
 dreamt of in her most warlike days, overlooking that borderland 
 lying down by Maintz and Worms, swept and reswept for hundreds of 
 years by border warfare. 
 
 At Wiesbaden I confirmed in the church, for which Mr. Christopher 
 Benson, the Archbishop's brother, had done so much to improve and 
 beautify. The Duke of Nassau's palace at Biebrich shows marks of 
 the war of 1866, when Nassau resisted annexation to Prussia. 
 Going on to Heidelberg, where we have a college for English boys — 
 since that date broken into two colleges, Neuenheim and Heidelberg 
 — I confirmed ; the musical part of the service being sung by a 
 choir of German boys, who are well conducted and sing very credit- 
 ably. In the evening I met at the chaplain's house Countess 
 Jennisen, who lives in Carinthia, and speaks of it as a very beautiful 
 country, the people still most primitive, refusing to take money from 
 travellers for accommodation and food, and where living is still very 
 cheap. 
 
 From Heidelberg I crossed the Rhine to Basle, passing Weissen- 
 burg and the district in which the Franco -German War began. 
 Monuments are seen right and left of the line in all directions, 
 marking the burial places of French and Germans. Arriving at 
 Berne, I did what ordinary tourists rarely do. All down the old 
 arcaded street are burgher hotels at intervals, the former guild-
 
 i886] FROM BERNE TO LAUSANNE 21 
 
 houses of the city. The rooms are quaint, the ceilings and cornices 
 decorated with coats -of- arms and other insignia, reached by old 
 stone stairways. These hotels have large and curious signs over 
 their entrances : the Moor, the lion, the eagle, etc. I put up at 
 one of these, a charming old house kept by most civil people — 
 cool, clean, and simple, but, better than all, free entirely of English 
 and American tourists. 
 
 Tuesday is the day to see Berne. It is then that the country 
 people flock to market with their endless procession of dog-drawn 
 carts, bringing every conceivable country product and manufacture. 
 The bears in the pit at the end of the street are said to be the 
 barometer of Berne. When they climb their pole mountaineers 
 may climb the mountains, when they stay below it is better for 
 Alpine climbers to do the same. The Old Catholic church in 
 Berne is a fine modern building of plainly decorated style. It was 
 built by the Roman Catholics, but given by the Government to 
 the Old Catholics. This has made the Romans very bitter, and 
 not without reason. Our Legation used to attend the English 
 service here, the church being lent to us by Bishop Hertzog. But 
 so strong a feeling existed on the part of the Roman Legations that 
 the British Minister withdrew with his staff, and for the past year 
 had been without any place in which to hold service. An English 
 church is now (1906) in course of construction through the efforts 
 of Sir Cunningham Greene. In the Old Catholic church holy-water 
 stoups are placed at the entrance ; stations of the cross hang upon 
 the walls ; a red light burns before the pyx ; figures in stone of 
 SS. Peter and Paul stand on either side of the altar ; and a figure 
 of the Good Shepherd in stone over the pulpit. 
 
 From Berne I travelled to Lausanne. The chaplain, Mr. Singer, 
 and his wife were great Alpine climbers. He and Mrs. Singer 
 walked over Mont Blanc from the Italian side. Unable to leave 
 the huts on that side at 2 a.m. in consequence of fog, they did not 
 gain the summit till 6 p.m. Upon reaching the Grand Plateau, in 
 coming down, a snowstorm came on, and with it darkness, being early 
 in September. Their lights were seen from Chamonix, and it was 
 well for them that they were, for their position now became exceed- 
 ingly perilous, no alternative remaining but to pass the night upon 
 the mountain. It was an awful night of snowstorm and intense 
 cold. The guides behaved admirably ; one was a married man ; 
 Mr. Singer told him that he had made provision for his family
 
 22 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [iS86 
 
 before starting should anything happen to him. The guide repudi- 
 ated indignantly all thought of himself when he and Madame were 
 in such peril. As night came on they never expected to get down 
 alive. One guide lay down : Madame was to lie upon him and then 
 be covered up with all the wraps they had. " I shall die," he said, 
 " and you," turning to Mr. Singer, " will die also, but Madame will 
 be saved." This Mr. Singer would not allow. They eventually 
 determined not to lie down at all, but to beat one another all night 
 in order to keep awake. Mr. Singer still carried the marks of the 
 guide's boots upon his legs. At 6 a.m. the snowstorm abated, and 
 they got down to the Grands Mulcts, where the old woman of the 
 Alpine Club hut got them some breakfast. Fifteen guides had 
 started at 5 a.m. from Chamonix carrying sacks, in which to bring 
 down their dead bodies, it being thought impossible that they 
 should have survived such a night. The party reached Chamonix 
 about midday, having been tied with ropes for twenty-nine hours. 
 The rope was so stiffly frozen that it could only be thawed at the 
 kitchen fire, and Mr. Singer did not lose the icicles off his beard 
 till nearing Chamonix. His right hand was frost-bitten and still 
 bore traces of the effects. It was a wonderful escape. No man 
 had ever passed the night upon Mont Blanc before, much less a 
 woman. 
 
 At Lausanne I confirmed in the beautiful church built by Mr. 
 Street, the altar furniture of which was given by the King, when 
 Prince of Wales, who studied here when young. In the vestry 
 afterwards an encouraging incident occurred, by no means the only 
 one of the kind in my continental work. A young fellow whom 
 I had confirmed at Bruges asked me for a few words of advice. 
 He is reading here for the army, and told me he had been a regular 
 communicant since his confirmation. With the many temptations 
 of continental life, this was a great satisfaction to me. At Vevey, 
 further up the lake, I confirmed in another of Mr. Street's churches. 
 On Sunday, 27 June, I preached at Geneva, confirming in the after- 
 noon. In the evening I preached again. A young Mr. Ripley was 
 present, whom I knew. He listened most attentively to what proved 
 to be his last sermon, on the text, " It is appointed unto men once 
 to die, but after that the judgment." He was drowned next morn- 
 ing while bathing in the lake. 
 
 I went to see an excellent circular panorama, partly artistic, 
 partly realistic, of the entry of Bourbaki's army of the East into
 
 i886] METZ 23 
 
 Switzerland. A most graphic and terrible representation. Pursued 
 by the Germans, 84,000 men laid down their arms at Verricres, the 
 frontier, and crossed into Switzerland. This was in January, 1871, 
 a terrible winter, Bourbaki's troops were driven to every extremity, 
 starving and naked, frost-bitten and in despair. The Swiss received 
 and cared for them most kindly. 
 
 From Geneva I went to Thun, Interlachen, and Grindelwald, at 
 each of which places we have season chaplaincies; in fact, all 
 Switzerland is studded — mountains, lake-sides, and valleys — with 
 what I call my " button mushroom churches," for they spring up 
 all over that country, and sometimes almost in a night ! On my 
 way I ascended the Schynige Platte, from which a fine view of the 
 Oberland is obtained. A farmer's son at Grindelwald told me that 
 corn and apple trees will grow now in that district, whereas in his 
 father's day, when the glaciers came much further down into the 
 valley, neither could be cultivated. His father, who died this 
 spring at the age of seventy-six, told him that this would take place 
 again when the glaciers come down, as they are sure to do, in 
 course of time. Sleeping at the Manlichen, then a rough hut far 
 above the Wengern Alp Hotel, a grand panorama of the Jungfrau 
 and the Oberland giants was obtained. The whole range, from the 
 Titlis to Diablerets, lay in view. When in that neighbourhood I 
 saw several rare birds, ring-ousels, snow-buntings, and, much to my 
 delight, several Cornish choughs. 
 
 On my way back from Switzerland I slept at Metz. All around 
 were traces of the siege, especially on the heights to the left of the 
 Thionville (Diedenhofen) road, along which Bazaine endeavoured to 
 escape several times from the fortress. The grand old cathedral is 
 a splendid pile of highest decorated style. The side tower and 
 spire most graceful and beautifully proportioned. The south transept 
 window lofty and of exquisite proportion. A grand apse, supported 
 by flying buttresses, at each end. A new porch at north-west side 
 highly filled with richly sculptured figures. It was market-day, 
 and the streets and market-place were packed with carts of vege- 
 tables, flowers, and fruit, notably strawberries, thousands of baskets 
 — of red and white fruit — in wagon-loads. 
 
 From Metz I travelled direct to Antwerp, and crossed to 
 England.
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 First journey as bishop for Northern and Central Europe— New English church in 
 Berlin — American thanksgiving dinner — Confirmation at St. George's 
 Church — Crown Princess present — Audience with Crown Prince and 
 Princess — "The more English churches you build in Germany the better 
 I shall like it" — Requested to confirm one thousand old Catholics in Vienna — 
 Incidents at the Tuileries after Sedan — Touching stories of the Franco- 
 German War — Princess Salm-Salm and the Emperor Maximilian. 
 
 T TPON the death of Bishop Titcomb in 1886, Bishop Temple, 
 LJ of London, asked me to take the continental work, and I left 
 England as Anglican bishop of Northern and Central Europe on 
 22 November of that year for the North German chaplaincies. My 
 first halt for work was Hanover, where I found a telegram from the 
 Consul-General for America at Berlin inviting me to attend the 
 American annual thanksgiving dinner to be held on the 25th. At 
 Hanover we have an interesting church, one of the oldest buildings 
 in Hanover, dating back to the twelfth century. The exterior is not 
 striking, the interior very bright, newly frescoed and decorated. An 
 old reredos of painted wood panelling, representing Bible scenes, 
 surmounted by a large old crucifix, gives the east end a dignified 
 appearance. This formed part of the church fittings when used by 
 the Lutherans. Here I confirmed, leaving Hanover afterwards for 
 Berlin by a special train, that by which I should have travelled 
 having met with an accident. Upon arrival at Friedrichstrasse 
 station a telegram was handed to me from Sir Edward Malet, the 
 English Ambassador, stating that the Crown Princess desired to 
 see me. 
 
 The new English church at Berlin, erected since my visit in 
 1883, was built to commemorate the Crown Princess's silver wed- 
 ding. It stands in the Mon Bijou Palace gardens, and is an 
 exceedingly handsome specimen of Gothic architecture, with a 
 slender spire rising from the midst of the roof. It is constructed 
 of red Finland split granite, and covered with English slate. It 
 
 24
 
 1886] THE CROWN PRINCESS 25 
 
 has three entrances, one at the west end for the general congrega- 
 tion, another at the centre of the north wall which serves as a 
 private entrance for the Crown Princess and family to the royal 
 pews, and another at the north-east leading to the vestry. The 
 church has one aisle ; it would have been better had another been 
 added, for the building is not too large for the congregation. The 
 oak and ironwork throughout are very good. The font is the gift of 
 the Duchess of Bedford, Lady Ermyntrude Malet's mother. The 
 altar cloths are very rich, the work of the Crown Princess, Princess 
 Louise, and Princess Christian. The altar furniture is the gift 
 of the Empress Augusta. Round the walls, beneath the roof, run 
 texts chosen by the Crown Princess as follows : " Glory to God in 
 the highest, on earth peace, goodwill towards men." " Let the 
 wicked forsake his way, and the unrighteous man his thoughts, and 
 let him return unto the Lord, and He will have mercy upon him, 
 and to our God, and He will abundantly pardon." " The mercy of 
 the Lord is everlasting upon them that fear Him, and His righteous- 
 ness unto children's children." "The peace of God, which passeth 
 all understanding, keep your hearts and minds through Christ 
 Jesus." " Come unto Me, all ye that labour and are heavy laden, 
 and I will give you rest." And the last, significant of the exile from 
 her beloved England, " Here we have no continuing city, but we 
 seek one to come." Close to the royal pews, which are recessed in 
 a small transept, is a little sculpture in marble, given to the Crown 
 Princess by a Koln sculptor, a friend of her father, the Prince 
 Consort. The upper part represents the infant Saviour upon His 
 mother's knee, feeding birds which alight upon the ground, and 
 beneath are the words, in Latin, " Behold the fowls of the air, 
 which sow not, neither do they reap, nor gather into barns, and yet 
 your Heavenly Father feedeth them." 
 
 The Crown Princess sent the State architect, Herr Raschdorf, to 
 England for two months to study English church architecture 
 before drawing the plans. It is a truly royal chapel, of which our 
 community in Berlin may well be proud. It is dedicated to 
 St. George. Upon this occasion a large gathering assembled at the 
 chaplain's house to meet me. Sir Edward Malet, our Ambassador, 
 and some of the Crown Princess's household being present. Imme- 
 diately after this reception I drove to the Imperial Hotel, where a 
 large party of some two hundred Americans sat down to dinner, 
 which lasted, accompanied by a band and endless speeches, no less
 
 26 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [iS86 
 
 than four hours! I had to speak upon "Success to the American 
 thanksgiving day," and spoke warmly, as I felt, about our many 
 bonds of union, both in Church and State, with America. I 
 referred finally to the grievous policy which alienated and divided 
 us into two nations, expressing an earnest hope that we should take 
 warning by the error, and not repeat it in our colonial empire 
 of to-day. The Americans were evidently greatly delighted with 
 what I said, several leaving their seats at the far end of the room, 
 coming up to the cross-table at which I was sitting, by the chair- 
 man's side, and shaking hands with me over their thanks. We had, 
 of course, the indispensable turkey and cranberries, which is never 
 omitted upon this occasion. The festival is a thanksgiving to God 
 for the prosperity of the nation from its foundation by the Pilgrim 
 Fathers, and dating from their day. In America it is a domestic 
 feast, kept by each family as piously as the Feast of the Passover 
 was observed as an annual thanksgiving for deliverance from 
 Egyptian bondage. Here abroad it assumes a national aspect as 
 on this day. Gneist, professor of jurisprudence, of world-wide 
 repute, sat by me, and made a speech in English. 
 
 On Friday, 26 November, I confirmed in St. George's Church. 
 The Crown Princess and Princess Victoria were present. The 
 Princess's voice was very distinct, the royal seat being not far from 
 the chancel steps, where my chair was placed. One of the candi- 
 dates was a great-niece of John Wesley. I had some conversation 
 with her afterwards in the vestry. Two gentlemen from Griinberg, 
 in Silesia, called to see me upon the needs of the English in the 
 factory of that place, numbering about 150. They were by no 
 means all Church people. One of the gentlemen told me he was 
 not, " but," he added, "we have had a meeting, and have agreed to 
 sink our differences and seek a minister of the Church of England." 
 This is frequently the case on the Continent, where dissenters are 
 freer than in England to act as they please. I then went to the 
 palace for an audience with the Crown Prince and Princess. I was 
 shown into a prettily-furnished drawing-room, in which hung a large 
 picture of a Franco-German battlefield. The Crown Prince was 
 in uniform. He and the Princess received me most kindly. We 
 talked much of the new church, which I told them was the best 
 English church upon the Continent, from east to west, a thoroughly 
 good, honest piece of work, a right royal chapel. The Crown 
 Princess asked me if the church at the Hague was not better, to
 
 ■ 886] CROWN PRINCESS AND ENGLISH CHURCH 27 
 
 which I gave a decided " No." " It is surrounded by such beautiful 
 trees," said the Crown Prince ; " they wanted to take them down for 
 the building of the church, but I begged for them." I then spoke 
 of our wish to build a church at Koln. " For my part," said the 
 Crown Prince, putting both his hands upon his breast in German 
 fashion to express heartiness of intention, "the more English 
 churches you build in Germany the better I shall like it. This Berlin 
 church has been the wish of twenty-five years of my life." I spoke 
 of the beautiful altar cloths. The Crown Princess said that she 
 had made the red one, her sister Princess Christian the green, and 
 that Her Majesty's consul gave the white one, which had been on 
 the altar that day. I also spoke of the monument near the royal seats. 
 She said it was the work of a very dear friend of her father, for 
 whom he had a great regard. She asked if I thought it appropriate. 
 I said very much so. I then mentioned their visit to the little 
 watering-place in Italy of which I had read, and their kindness to 
 the poor fisher-folk, which had pleased the inhabitants so much. 
 The Crown Prince said it was a charming little place, quiet and out 
 of the way, no visitors, and where they were all to themselves. The 
 Crown Prince had an engagement, and had to leave, the Crown 
 Princess begging me to stay, as she had several matters to talk over. 
 First about Holy Communion. At the confirmation I had advised 
 the candidates to attend early service, and with reference evidently 
 to what I had urged she said it was very difficult for her to attend 
 early service. She wished she could attend the English church 
 more frequently, but was obliged to go to the German church. She 
 spoke of her wish for a full choral service, and choir-boys too. " 1 
 love to see those dear English boys in surplices when I go to 
 England, but how can I manage it here ? " I told her of the 
 Heidelberg church choir of German boys, in which she seemed 
 interested. We also discussed the proposed institution for English 
 and American governesses in Berlin, which Her Royal Highness 
 was anxious to found. They wanted jQ^ooo ; how could it be 
 raised ? I said that if Her Royal Highness would write her wishes 
 to me I would endeavour to get London churches to help, and I 
 would preach on behalf of the work. Talking of my London work, 
 she told me how much she would like to visit the poor of Berlin, 
 but could not do so — that in London she could walk from 
 Buckingham Palace anywhere, but not at Berlin. After discussing 
 several other matters, the Princess rose to go, and after some last
 
 28 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL 
 
 words said suddenly that she wished I would stay over Sunday. I 
 replied that I was due in I>resden on Sunday, and oould irat possibly 
 do s(x Reminding her of something H^ Royal Hi^uness had 
 promised to do» she took out her podxt-handkerduef and, taping a 
 knot in it, said, "Now I shall not fiotget" And so we parted. 
 Tbe Cxown Prince was ab^kdy beginning to speak scHneirfiat 
 huskily, the beginning of that long and tonible fiutore of q>eecfa 
 that ended in caiKer and death. 
 
 In the erenxng oi this day I dined at the British Embassy, 
 meeting the American Ambassador, Mr. Phe^ and his dang^tor, 
 together with the members of the En^ish diqtlomatic corps. Sir 
 Edward SfeJet was a most del^htfol host, fhU of cahhraited, in- 
 tdOi^ent coQTCXsation. His experience in the dqikMuatic senrice 
 was extenshre. He had serred at Constantinople, Athensi, Egypt, 
 Brasseis, Flars, "^560110, and now Berlin. He showed me many 
 {ttcteires oi the coontries and places in wfaidi he has senred. Upon 
 thb occasion I made the acquaintance of Mr. Arthm- Leiveson- 
 Gower^ one of the secretaries of L^atkm, whcmi I was to know 
 apJn at several diplomatic prants oi my epbcc^nl ^ihere of addon. 
 He had serred at Riot, c^ which place and its magnificent scenery 
 his accranpiidied wife had made a nomber of good water-coloar 
 drawii^s. He odledted when at CcnstantirKqile a large nomber <^ 
 cnrkms Bi^id>-made rfiiming dodcs from the bazaars, made 
 e^tedal^ for the TVnks — some bai^ two hnndred years old. Tbe 
 enamelled miniatare timepieces of all shapes and sties have carious 
 figmes upon their &ces, some of idiidi pass across the dials at tdie 
 hoars and half-hours. He has also many cmions silver (Hnaments 
 brong^ into Constairtinople for sale by the Bw^arian exiles daring 
 the war. 
 
 A Mr. Binns from Rommelsixirg came t: see ~e ::...\ oyF& the 
 possibility of a chaplain iur Scbdnwieie: R-= :. elsborg, and 
 Hopperg^urten, die two ibnner mano&c: , :?ntaining 
 
 Ki^feh workmen^ the latter a radi^ ce: . : :-jineis, 
 
 staWemen, and jockey boys. Mr. Earee. e a 
 
 most incredible stny of Jewish avarice. A :e!. 
 
 ofiering to be baptiaed for j^ioo. Fifty :- i- - 
 balance when die transactioo was omc : . i .: 
 world hear of sodiapieceof Juxdas Is. : . -^ 
 
 From Berlin I went to Dresden, wh r : z-i and confirmed 
 
 in our beantifid dburdi, Mr. Gflderi . e ; x e er.:
 
 i«86) THE TUILERIES AFTER SEDAN 29 
 
 and aoomnplisbed chaplain. Profesor Hechler, Eiafaassy rK« plai« 
 of Vienna, came up to Dresden, bearing a ktter firom the old 
 Catfaotics in Austria, requesting me to viat Menna and ooofinn 
 ooe thousand of their body. I replied thai if they obtained the 
 sanction of the Austrian Gorenmient throi^ the English Am- 
 bassador, I would make a ^>edal yaaraef to Vieima for the purpose, 
 but not odiennse. I inclined to hf^Mng the old Catholics in their 
 legitimate locus standi to secure episcopal supenriaoo of their ovn, 
 and the fimctkxis of a native bishop rather than to action basing 
 itself upon what the Romans have done in Kngfand Refbnnation 
 from vithin was the [xinciple of our own amende wa\-s in die 
 sixteenth century. 
 
 FrcMU Dresden I went to Leipzig, where I confirmed in the new 
 church, a not very satisfactory building in German Lutheran style. 
 Thence I travelled throng the night to Baden-Baden to settle a 
 di^mte in that chaplaincy. Here I made the acquaintance of Mr. 
 ^Caynard, an ex-navy rhapbin. He was tutor to the Prince 
 Imperial of France, and tc4d me several very interesting inddents of 
 his life when at the French Court. He saw much of the Franco- 
 German battlefields. He told me that the PriiKe Imperial was an 
 excellent boy, but, of course, liable to be spcxit by those around 
 him. Mr. Maynard was very strict with him in his work ; he had 
 not been with him long befiore he had to find £ault with his lessons, 
 which were not wdl pr^iared. The Prince made excuse that he was 
 much distrarfed by parties and q^gpmeots. Mr. ^faynaid told 
 him that he must not make excuses, that excuses wa^e not honesL 
 The boy came, and throwing his arms round his neck, asked his for- 
 giveness. The Emperor heard of this, and thanked Mr. Maynard 
 for his plain speaking. When the news of Sedan and the Emperor's 
 capture became known in Paris, the scene, he said, was very terrible. 
 The tiding arrived late in the evening, and were not generally 
 kiM>wn that night at all He knew and dreaded the consequences. 
 Opening his window early next morning, and seeing it was a fine 
 day, he knew that the worst might be expected; that the streets 
 would soon be a scene (^ revc^ution and anardiy, whereas a wet day 
 would have kept the populace within doors. He made his way fitjm 
 his house to the Tuileries, but could hear nothing ol the Empress. 
 When Mr. Maynard found her she was in the greatest alarm. 
 " Oh ! " she exclaimed, " had I but known you were looking for me, 
 how thankful I should have been for your help." It was too late to
 
 30 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL I1886 
 
 take any measures except for the flight of the Empress, which has 
 been already described in a former chapter. The rabble were howl- 
 ing like wild beasts round the palace, pulling down the railings on 
 the clock front, by which they got into the archway. The Empress 
 retreated, like poor Marie Antoinette at Versailles, from room to room 
 until she reached the Louvre, escaping by the side which lies towards 
 St. Germain I'Auxerrois. Connected with the Franco-German War, 
 he told me some touching incidents. Hospitals were established at 
 Heidelberg for wounded Germans and French prisoners. An old 
 Frenchwoman living in Normandy, hearing that her son was wounded 
 and in hospital there, made her way through France on foot that 
 bitter winter amidst many hardships and dangers. On her arrival 
 she requested to see the cure. He could not see her just then — he 
 was going to bury a French prisoner. The old woman asked to be 
 allowed to attend the funeral of her dead countryman, which was 
 permitted. It was observed that she was much moved during the 
 service, into which she seemed to enter with all her heart. Before 
 returning to the hospital the cure said to the warder, " Now, then, 
 let us go to this poor woman's son." " What number ? " he inquired. 
 It was given. " Monsieur le Cur^" he said, " you forget you have 
 just buried him." The grief of the poor old woman was terrible. 
 She returned to the grave, and knelt there weeping bitterly that she 
 had come too late. Many of the French prisoners when dying in the 
 German hospitals asked, as their end approached, to have their faces 
 turned towards France. The Emperor in his captivity at Wilhelms- 
 h5he showed much sympathy with the wounded and imprisoned 
 soldiers. Upon one occasion he sent Mr. Maynard 1000 marks for 
 those at Heidelberg with this message : " Avec mille amities." 
 
 From Baden I visited Bonn, confirming in the University church, 
 which was lent to us for the English service. The Princess Salm-Salm 
 lives in Bonn. She shared the Emperor Maximilian's imprisonment 
 in Mexico, and stood at his side when he was shot. She pleaded 
 very earnestly for his life, and for that of her husband. The latter's 
 was granted, but not Maximilian's. She was made much of upon her 
 return to Germany, the Emperor William taking much notice of her. 
 
 From Bonn I visited Koln, dining with the American Consul, and 
 consulting about the building of a church, which came to nothing. 
 Koln is not a place of English residence ; many tourists pass through, 
 but they do not stay. From Koln I returned to England via 
 Rotterdam and Harwich.
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 
 History of the English church at Rotterdam— Visit to Crown Princess of 
 Germany in Berlin— A bow from Bismarck— The Russian frontier ; its guard- 
 houses from the Baltic to the Black Sea— "Est-ce que vous avez des depcches, 
 monsieur ?"—" A sadder and a hungrier man "— Gatchina, the Windsor 
 of Russia — The frozen Neva — Peter the Great's cottage — The ice hills 
 —Conspiracy against the life of Alexander II— Interesting confirmation 
 candidates at Petersburg— Great service at the Isaac Cathedral— Prince 
 Kantekuzin — The murdered Czar — "Bishop of Northern and Central 
 Europe, and Central and Eastern Asia ! "—The ice-crushers on the Dwina 
 at Riga. 
 
 ON 7 March, 1887, I was bound for Russia, and took some of 
 the North German work upon my way. I halted at Rotter- 
 dam, and inspected more closely our church in that town than I 
 had time to do upon my former visit in 1883. It was built chiefly 
 through the exertions of the great Duke of Marlborough for the 
 EngHsh soldiers quartered here during the wars of the eighteenth 
 century, and must have cost a large sum of money. It is severely 
 ugly, Hanoverian of the most secular order, a mere parallelogram, 
 but by no means niggardly constructed. It is vaulted with an 
 extraordinary amount of timber above the false ceiling, and stands 
 at the head of the Hareng Vley Canal. One side has sunk, owing, 
 it is supposed, to the large stores of cannon-shot which were piled 
 in it; and since all Rotterdam is built on piles, the lurch is ex- 
 plained. About thirty to sixty feet of soft, peaty matter exists 
 below both Rotterdam and Amsterdam, and I suppose below all 
 Holland ; under this gravel is struck, and upon that stratum a 
 foundation is secure. Builders in Holland no longer drive piles 
 through this peat into the gravel, since they are sure in time to rot, 
 and bring the building down. The new system is to dig out the 
 peat and fill with concrete upon the gravel, which forms an in- 
 destructible foundation. The church has its history. It was not 
 only a shot-store, but served as a granary, during which period the 
 fine organ in the west gallery was covered up, lest it should be 
 
 31
 
 32 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 injured. The picture gallery at Rotterdam is but small. A few 
 pictures are worth a visit. Van Trigt's "Death of Erasmus," and 
 Ary Scheffer's pair of paintings, the father disinheriting his son, and 
 its companion, the son's dead body, killed in war, are perhaps the 
 best in the modern gallery. In the old gallery are some good 
 Gelders, Piet Glaeszs, Piet Neefs, Rembrandts, etc. 
 
 Upon reaching Berlin I received an intimation that the Crown 
 Princess, hearing I was passing through to Russia, wished to see 
 me. Upon arriving at the palace I was shown into a room hung 
 with tapestries and furnished with quaint old German furniture. 
 After a short while the Crown Princess entered hurriedly, saying in 
 her eager, impulsive way, "A thousand apologies for keeping you 
 waiting. I hear your time in Berlin is very short," she added, " but 
 I wanted to see you." There were several things about the chap- 
 laincy she wanted to talk over, the proposed chaplaincy for the 
 Schonwieder and Rummelsburg people, which she would gladly 
 help, but that she had so many calls. I said I thought we could 
 get on so far as stipend was concerned, but I would see. Then 
 about the chaplaincy of Berlin. If the chaplain left, could I get 
 the right man for the place, as foreigners judged of our church 
 mainly by the chaplain. Also about Koln, she hoped to be able 
 to do as I wished, and to lay the first stone of a proposed English 
 church, but she must ask the Crown Prince. Perhaps when he 
 went to Ems, or when she went to England for the Jubilee in June, 
 she might be able to manage it. We then further discussed some 
 matters relating to the chaplaincy, and the audience, which was 
 somewhat short, owing to being pressed for time, ended. On my 
 way from the palace I waited awhile to watch the members going 
 into the German Parliament. A crowd was round the entrance. I 
 asked who was expected — Bismarck. Presently a brougham drove 
 up. I stepped into the street, and stood close to the carriage as it 
 turned into the archway. Fortunately Bismarck sat on the near 
 side. He saw, doubtless, that I was English, and probably recog- 
 nized the bishop's dress, for he most courteously leaned forward to 
 the window and, with a very gracious smile on his grim old face, 
 made a deep military salute as I took off my hat and bowed to the 
 great German Chancellor. 
 
 I left Berlin by the courier Zug on 10 March at 11 p.m. The 
 country through which we were passing when day broke was like 
 that around Thetford, in Norfolk — miles upon miles of Scotch fir
 
 i887] THE RUSSIAN FRONTIER 3-, 
 
 and birch, and without a habitation. Before reaching Konigsberg I 
 saw in the far distance an inlet of the Baltic, the waters of which 
 I had not seen since 1859. Not a green blade was on the land- 
 scape, all being frosted down to the sandy earth, dykes and streams 
 being still ice-bound ; not a bird of any kind save grey crows, which 
 abound. 
 
 I reached Eydkuhnen 4 p.m., the German and Russian flagstaffs 
 and sentry-boxes marking the boundary between the two great 
 empires on either side of the frontier, which is formed here by 
 a quite insignificant stream. These sentry-boxes extend from the 
 Baltic to the Black Sea, within rifle-shot of one another, and it 
 is very difficult to evade the sentries except upon dark or foggy 
 nights. It was twenty-eight years since I had been in Russia, then 
 little more than a boy. From Eydkuhnen, which is the last 
 German station, to Wirballen, the first on Russian soil, is only a very 
 few yards, but those yards make all the difference. I had scarcely 
 put my foot upon the platform at Wirballen when a Russian in 
 uniform — one of several walking up and down guarding the train 
 on both sides to prevent any one alighting on the wrong side — 
 stepped up to me, and with a courteous military salute asked for my 
 passport. It was in my luggage, and I was passing on, intending to 
 give it up in the hall where luggage is searched, when he res[)ect- 
 fully but firmly demanded it there and then, and there and then on 
 the snowy platform I had to unpack and deliver. In the great hall 
 most searching examinations were going on all round, but my bags 
 were passed graciously and easily, a fine-looking official, of some 
 six-feet-four, in a huge fur coat, motioning to the white-aproned, 
 sheep-skinned, top-booted porters not to unfasten them. It did not 
 seem to occur to him that I might have any contraband goods, for 
 he did not ask about cigars and such things, but looking fixedly at 
 me, he said, "Est-ce que vous avez des depeches, monsieur?" 
 " None," I replied. Our names were called out, our passports 
 returned, and then to get something to eat. The buffets are well 
 supplied in Russia, though few and far between. A snowstorm was 
 swirling around the huge station, so we entered the Russian Empire 
 under seasonable conditions. It seemed likely to be a cold, snowy 
 night as I got into a corner of the Russian train. 
 
 The railway gauge in Russia is wider than obtains in Western 
 Europe for security in time of war : there are, consequently, no 
 through carriages. Even the Czar in crossing the frontier has to 
 
 D
 
 34 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 turn out. There were no rapid expresses in Russia at that date, 
 and comforts were Hmited. Wilna station was illuminated, being 
 the Czar's birthday. My eyes opened in the early dawn of the 
 third day out of Berlin — having passed two nights in the train — 
 upon a snow-covered world. I could now understand the old 
 stoker's fire. As the night advanced the cold had become so 
 intense that notwithstanding all his efforts I could not sleep. The 
 doors are double and the windows double, and yet thickly coated 
 with frost. In Germany we all turned out at the stopping stations 
 to take a turn on the platform ; now nobody turned out. The 
 Russians wrap themselves from head to foot in their beautiful furs, 
 and lie along upon the seats like hairy chrysalises waiting for the 
 spring. The country is dreary in the extreme, verst after verst ever 
 the same interminable birch and fir forest. Rarely a dwelling, and 
 these but a group of miserable log huts. If anybody wonders why 
 the east wind which comes to us in England at this season of the 
 year is so bitterly cold, let him come here and feel it in its own 
 home, and he will wonder no longer. 
 
 Upon leaving Wilna the route to Petersburg runs about north- 
 north-west. In those days it took three nights and three days from 
 Berlin to Petersburg. On the third morning I fell asleep from sheer 
 weariness of the way at the very hour we were due at Pskov, a 
 large place on Lake Peipus, and a buffet. I had been looking 
 forward much to a good breakfast at 11 a.m. I woke up suddenly 
 to find the train at a standstill, the carriage empty of all my fellow- 
 travellers, save one old lady who never moved, but had everything 
 brought to her. I rushed out, tumbled upon two officials, addressed 
 them in German to no effect, in French and English with no better 
 results. Shaking their heads they laconically replied, "Russisch." As 
 all notices are in Russian, I was puzzled to find the buffet. At last 
 I opened a door which looked likely, and there spread out upon 
 long tables was a sumptuous table d'hote breakfast. I had but 
 caught sight of it when the second bell sounded, and up and off 
 the whole company rushed, they well filled, having been some 
 twenty minutes at work, while I had to beat a retreat, a sadder 
 and a hungrier man. I returned to my captain's biscuit and my last 
 orange. I had eaten nothing of the Russian since I crossed his 
 border the day before. In those days restaurant cars were unknown. 
 
 Pskov has a fine church, a large coloured dome, white walls and 
 towers. Except in the neighbourhood of Hanover, from which the
 
 18873 GATCHINA THE WINSDOR OF RUSSIA 35 
 
 Hartz Mountains can be seen, I had not seen a hill since 1 left 
 England. Acres and acres of firewood were lying all along the line. 
 The children in the miserable log-hut villages were actually silling 
 outside in the bitter cold and snow with bare feet. I wondered they 
 were not frost-bitten. 
 
 Gatchina is the Windsor of Petersburg; here were seen again 
 good houses and villas, signs of wealth and civilization. Scores 
 of sledges were standing in the station yard, all packed closely 
 together, and looking like a horse market, for the sledges being 
 low are hidden by the multitude of horses, which stand with bows 
 over their necks, and powdered with the falling snow. Horse-tails 
 are used by the guards and attendants of the train to brush the 
 snow off the steps and balconies of the railway carriages, (iatchina 
 possesses a fine church, a central tower and dome with four towers 
 and domelettes, one at each angle. Ikons, large and small, are 
 placed on the platforms of the stations, with here and there small 
 roofed tabernacles with glass fronts and offering-boxes. The park 
 at Gatchina is very extensive, the birch trees the largest I have ever 
 seen. Peasants were cutting large oblong blocks of ice out of 
 lakes and driving them away in sledges. All the way from Gat- 
 china to Petersburg long low turf-huts are erected for detach- 
 ments of soldiers, who since the late Emperor's assassination had 
 been posted at intervals to guard the line, and keep the crossing 
 with fixed bayonets. In England when the sun goes down on a 
 frosty night it has the appearance of a great red copper shield, 
 owing to our dense atmosphere. Here it goes down to the very 
 last blazing and flashing as bright as midday, making all the snowy 
 plain look as if on fire. At last the great city loomed up in the 
 distance, over the snowy expanse, and we rolled into the Baltic 
 railway station at 6.20 p.m. The treasurer of the Russia com- 
 pany, with the two chaplains of Petersburg and Cronstadt, were 
 awaiting me on the platform. They had come provided with ample 
 furs sent by the company, in which I was duly enveloped, and 
 conducted to a sledge drawn by black horses, in which we dashed 
 along the broad streets, past objects and buildings already familiar 
 to me, though not seen for nearly thirty years. The multitude of 
 sledges of all sorts, shapes, and sizes through which the coachman 
 steered us was bewildering, like a gondola making its way along a 
 crowded Venetian canal, the pace only being appallingly different. 
 The whole effect must be seen to be appreciated : it cannot be
 
 36 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 adequately described. The brilliantly clear air makes everything 
 look as though under electric light, like fairyland, a city of palaces, 
 brilliant in glittering ice and snow. We drove to the Russia com- 
 pany's premises upon the English quay by the Neva, where I was 
 most hospitably received during my visitation of the chaplaincy. 
 After dinner I was glad to take advantage of the evening Lent 
 service to return thanks for a safe and well-ended journey. The 
 church, which is large, beautifully fitted, appointed, and served, 
 forms part of the company's premises, and shows the careful and 
 skilful hand of Sir Arthur Blomfield. The view from the windows 
 of the company's buildings is most striking. Immediately below, 
 lies^ not flows, the Neva, bound in an iron grip of ice and covered 
 with snow, multitudes of sledges and pedestrians crossing and 
 recrossing; the steamers and ships frozen in till the spring sets 
 them free. 
 
 The day after my arrival I called upon Sir R. Morier, our Ambas- 
 sador, an affable and pleasant man, with whom I sat and talked for 
 some time. He told me that I was fortunate in seeing Petersburg 
 in such brilliantly bright though severe weather. At a luncheon 
 party afterwards one of the two Russian menservants was a lad in 
 a very picturesque dress — a red tunic, confined round the waist by 
 a belt, and large leather boots coming above his knees with red 
 tops. The house stands on the same quay as the Winter Palace. 
 Two thousand dvorniks were found living up in the roof when it was 
 turned out after the late Emperor's assassination. Cows were also 
 kept up there during his reign, by which the Imperial Family was 
 supplied with milk ! 
 
 In the afternoon I drove to Peter the Great's little house, to which 
 he was in the habit of retiring when in a quiet mood, and which, it 
 is said, he built himself. It is situated upon one of the islands of 
 the Neva. This little house is visited by thousands of pilgrims. 
 While I was there a religious service was being held in it, and it 
 was crowded. Then to the fortress within which is the cathedral of 
 SS. Peter and Paul. It was to this cathedral that the very next day 
 after my visit the Emperor and Empress, with their children, went 
 to attend a Requiem Mass upon the anniversary of the late Czar's 
 murder, in going to which he so nearly went the same way. The 
 conspiracy was mercifully discovered just in time, as I will presently 
 relate. This cathedral contains the tombs of the Czars from Peter 
 the Great and his wife Catherine down to the late Emperor. They
 
 i887] THE ICE HILLS 37 
 
 are almost exactly the same in shape, marble altar tombs, covered 
 with wreaths, hundreds of candles burning around, and thickly set 
 — as a conservatory — with palms and shrubs. 
 
 From the cathedral of the fortress I went to the ice hills, where 
 we found the attaches of the Embassy and other young Englishmen 
 running down the ice at a fearful pace. The sport requires some 
 explanation. Two wooden towers stand at a distance of about hall 
 a mile apart. From the top of each of these a steep incline of 
 ice, made of huge blocks from the Neva welded into one smooth 
 mass, leads down to a quarter of a mile of a perfectly level pathway 
 of ice, along which — with the impetus acquired upon the incline — 
 the sledge with its occupant or occupants rushes at the rate of 
 a railway train. The sledges have to be broken strongly as they 
 near the foot of the tower at the other end, to the top of which a 
 mujik carries it, and the same process is repeated in returning to the 
 other tower. 
 
 I was taken down three times by Mr. (now Sir) A. Hardinge, one 
 of the attaches, who was considered the most expert sledger upon the 
 ice hills. The pace is terrific ; and the rush through the Arctic air 
 fearful. Some of the English boys born in Russia perform marvels. 
 They go down backwards, lying down on their stomachs, or their 
 backs, head first, feet first, standing up, and, as a crowning feat, in 
 the middle of the rush, actually turn head over heels, sledge and 
 all, righting themselves again for a second plunge down the head- 
 long incline. When I first saw this somersault executed I thought 
 that an accident had occurred, and that the boy was smashed up. 
 They look Hke hares knocked over at full speed by a gun, being 
 literally doubled up — sledge and boy — into a ball. In a moment the 
 apparent ball expands into a boy and his sledge again, which he 
 hangs on to and rights in the most marvellously dexterous manner. 
 Only boys born and reared in Russia can perform these feats. 
 Three young Carrs — boys I have confirmed and seen grow up to 
 young men — were the best at it. An " omnibus " sledge is composed 
 of several sledges laid end on together; then a narrow thin 
 mattress is laid along them. Each boy kneels upon that portion of 
 the mattress beneath which his sledge lies, they clasp one another 
 round the waist, and away they go. Of course the combined 
 weight gives much greater impetus to the descent, and the rush is 
 frightful. If an accident occurs to an "omnibus" sledge, it is 
 generally a bad one. The sides of the ice-run are protected by
 
 38 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 banks of ice and snow, and another such bank stands at the end of 
 each run by the side of the tower. In spite of this a sledge occasion- 
 ally gets out of control, and leaps this terminal barrier, landing 
 the occupant in the frozen canal below. Near the ice hills I got a 
 peep down the Gulf of Finland towards Cronstadt, all bound up in 
 ice as far as the eye could reach. From the ice hills I drove up and 
 down the Nevski Prospect, passing and repassing the Anitchkoff 
 Palace, about the gates of which those wretched villains were that 
 very afternoon seen by the police to be hanging with their dynamite 
 bombs waiting for the Emperor to come out. Had he left the palace 
 — and nothing was more likely — we should have drawn up, of course, 
 and have been in the middle of it all. Upon this drive the spot 
 was pointed out to me where the late Emperor was killed. Of this 
 tragic event I will give, in its place, full particulars. An enormous 
 and infinitely costly cathedral is being built over the spot, which is 
 a somewhat retired one upon a canal, backed by a wood, into which, 
 as is supposed, the assassins intended to escape. 
 
 The weather this day was very cold, zero Reaumur, cold enough 
 for frost-bites. Pretty green and Iceland mosses, studded with 
 small artificial flowers, are laid in the space between the double 
 windows, giving a bright appearance to the rooms. Upon this visit 
 to Petersburg I met a Mr. Clarke, who had lived for more than 
 twenty years at Archangel, and told me much about that place. 
 There is a very good English church there built of stone, as well as 
 a chapel of ease down the river for sailors. Before the Crimean War 
 Archangel was a considerable centre of English trade, a kind of 
 small Hudson's Bay Company. Since then the trade had so greatly 
 fallen off that it was not considered worth while to get a chaplain out 
 even for the summer months. Hitherto a chaplain had come out 
 by the first steamers after the Baltic was free from ice, about May, 
 and returned in October. There is a small capital sum of about 
 P<|"3ooo to ;^4ooo, the interest of which is used in keeping up and 
 insuring the two buildings and the parsonage. Mr. Clarke's son 
 took Lord William Compton to shoot bears between Petersburg 
 and Archangel. They got about twenty. The bear lies dormant 
 through the winter in holes and caves, and amongst old fallen, 
 rotten trees. He is tracked to his lair in the autumn, and then 
 followed to these retreats in the winter. The peasants stir them up, 
 and then turn them out. Russian peasants are temerous and 
 dexterous enough to walk up to a bear axe in hand and cleave his
 
 1887] THE ISAAC CATHEDRAL 3^ 
 
 skull. Bear-shooting can be got in two days from I'elersburg, and 
 wolves had been near the city recently, the winter having been 
 severe. I met a young fellow one day who had just shot one ; he 
 showed me the skin. 
 
 The Isaac Cathedral at Petersburg is sinking upon one side, the 
 city being built on piles. It is sad to see it ; one side is a forest of 
 enormous timbers shoring it up. This had occurred since I was 
 here twenty-eight years ago. Nothing can be done ; the weight of the 
 structure with its enormous monoliths of Finland granite, supporting 
 the porticoes, is immense. There can be no under-pinning, it must 
 go until it stops. The Neva closed up very late this winter, not till 
 December had set in ; so late a closing had not been known for a 
 hundred years. 
 
 On Sunday, 13 March, I confirmed one hundred candidates, 
 several amongst them being interesting cases. I confirmed three 
 generations in one family, a quondam nihilist from Moscow, and a 
 boy who had come for the purpose from near the Sea of Azof. He 
 had been so long in Russia — indeed from his birth— and lived so 
 much amongst Russians that he could speak but Httle English, 
 and it was difificult to prepare him. He had been here several 
 weeks — nine, I think — in course of preparation, and had recovered 
 somewhat of his own language. A good many of the boys were in 
 the uniform of the Russian miUtary school. The candidates wished 
 to give an offering of money to the chaplain for his care in preparing 
 them. This he, of course, refused, though it is Russian to do so. 
 He told them, however, that they might make a gift to the church. 
 It is to take the form of altar candlesticks, vases, and a cross. 
 The offertory at the confirmation service was in aid of this, and 
 amounted to 170 roubles. I spoke of it in my address, commend- 
 ing the spirit of their wish, and telling them that the Empress 
 Augusta of Germany had recently given the same to the new 
 English church at Berlin. I was pleased, as I came through the 
 choir vestry after service, to see the boys shaking hands — in the 
 Russian style of congratulation upon such an occasion — with their 
 companions in the choir who had been confirmed at the service, 
 and with such serious, reverent little faces. It is strange how very 
 Russian many of the English are here, who have for generations 
 been born and brought up in Petersburg. These are, most of them, 
 in the employ of the Russia Company, which has existed here from 
 the days of Peter the Great, which means that their ancestors came
 
 40 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 here at the foundation of the city. The manservant calls me 
 " Episcopos." The Lenten fast in the Russian Church is very 
 severe, no meat or butter ; the main fare amongst the poor is mush- 
 room soup, for which truckloads of mushrooms are brought into the 
 town. 
 
 We heard on the morning of this day, 14 March, of the horrible 
 plot against the Emperor's life discovered the day before, but the 
 news was suppressed. A considerable number of persons had been 
 arrested. University students were found with dynamite bombs 
 upon them, waiting about the Anitchkoff Palace gates in the Nevski 
 for the Imperial Family upon its return from the requiem service in 
 the cathedral of SS. Peter and Paul. It was during their absence that 
 the plot was discovered. The Imperial Family left immediately for 
 Gatchina. The Czar took it very quietly : the Empress, it was said, 
 was much upset. These villains had been noticed during the 
 Friday and Saturday hanging about the palace, one with a sham 
 book under his arm, which turned out to be a case containing 
 bombs, others carried parcels and bags, which they were observed 
 to handle very carefully ; one woman concealed bombs in her muff. 
 
 A member of the Holy Synod came at 12 a.m. on the morning 
 after the discovery of the plot, 14 March, and took me to the Isaac 
 Cathedral, where a most glorious service lasting three hours was 
 held. It was one of thanksgiving for the present Czar's accession 
 which had taken place this day six years, the day after his father 
 was killed. It is usual for the accession to take place on the same 
 day, but it was considered too terrible a day upon which to hold the 
 ceremony. The chaplain of Cronstadt, who had been here seven 
 years, told me that he had never seen anything even at Easter to be 
 compared with this function. I was accompanied to the cathedral 
 of St. Isaac by the chaplains of Petersburg and Cronstadt, acting as 
 my chaplains, and the member of the Holy Synod in his official 
 dress. We were taken within the altar rails, and placed just outside 
 the holy gates for the early part of the service, which was conducted 
 there. Then for the remainder we were taken down under the 
 dome amongst a brilliant assemblage of Grand Dukes, staff, and 
 other officers of all services, Cheval Guard, blue and red Cossacks, 
 Circassian regiments in their quaint dresses, and other troops from 
 all parts of the Empire. Nothing in all the Christian world could 
 be more superbly grand and gorgeous. There were present the 
 Metropolitan Archbishop of Petersburg, the aged Isidore, the Metro-
 
 i«87] MUSICAL LEVITES 
 
 4' 
 
 politan Archbishop of Moscow, the Metropolitan Archbishop of 
 Kieff, the Metropolitan Archbishop of Kasan : these are the four 
 holy cities of Russia. There were also present the Exarch of 
 Iberia, the Exarch of Irkutsk (Siberia), the Bishop of the Ecclesi- 
 astical College of Petersburg, and two other bishops-vicar of Peters- 
 burg, besides a host of archimandrites, deans, archdeacons, and 
 high dignitaries. The dresses were most gorgeous, gold and yellow 
 satin copes in rows, Uning the way for the hierarchy to pass to and 
 fro between the sanctuary and the dome. The mitres of the metro- 
 politans and bishops glittered with gems, the Archbishop of Peters- 
 burg's differing only from the others by a small diamond cross upon 
 its top. The pastoral staff of each bishop was carried behind him, 
 and each wore a jewelled pectoral cross. The Greek Church mitre 
 is not the same shape as the Roman and ours. It is round at the 
 top like Aaron's. And such a choir ! The Russian voices are 
 exquisite. Sir R. Morier told me that these ecclesiastical singers 
 belong through many generations to the same order ; in fact, 
 musical Levites. They intermarry, thereby keeping the gift of voice 
 in the family. The Duchess of Edinburgh, however, told me when 
 I was with her at Coburg that this is not so. The boys alone sang 
 the Hymn of the Cherubim which is the loveliest part of the service; 
 they sang divinely, like angels in heaven. At its close the whole 
 multitude recited the Nicene Creed, and then the service concluded 
 with a Te Deum, which seemed to rend the very dome of the 
 cathedral. One felt overwhelmed with the exceeding majesty of 
 the thunder of praise which went up to heaven through the glorious 
 building. When all was over the Grand Dukes went up, kissed the 
 metropolitans' hands, and retired. One of Archbishop Isidore's prin- 
 cipal works has been to translate the complete Bible into Russian. 
 Before it only existed in Sclavonic. 
 
 The service to-day was unusually impressive, and felt by all very 
 deeply, in consequence of the plot of the previous day, so happily 
 discovered. It lent great solemnity and reality to the thanksgiving 
 service. 
 
 In the evening I dined at the Embassy. Lady Morier was a Peel, 
 old Sir Robert's niece. Her parents lived at Livermere Park, near 
 Bury St. Edmunds, and she was interested to find that I knew her 
 old home. 
 
 The next day I went to the Grand Duchess Sergius' palace and 
 wrote my name. She is the daughter of Princess Alice. The
 
 42 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 Crown Princess of Germany, when I saw her at Berlin on my way to 
 Russia, said she supposed I should see her, so I thought it well 
 to call. Then to call on Prince Kantekuzin, the Cultus Minister 
 for Russia, which I was told I ought to do. He is the most remark- 
 able man I have seen here. I had a long and interesting conversa- 
 tion with him upon religious and other questions, particularly upon 
 the marriage laws of Russia, as touching English subjects in that 
 country. When I told him that we did not require a certificate of 
 baptism before marrying persons in England, he seemed amazed. He 
 did not appear to understand that the law of England compels us to 
 marry parishioners without such questions. He spoke of all English 
 people as Anglicans, which, of course, is not the case. He appeared, 
 however, impressed when I told him, in answer to his statement 
 that England must be full of bigamists, that it was not so, a very 
 heavy penalty being the consequence. He said that Russia did not 
 feel the action of the Church of Rome in sending bishops to other 
 countries and giving them ecclesiastical titles. "You," he said, 
 " might be Bishop of Odessa, or any other town in Russia, if you 
 pleased, but it must be done in due form. You must be Russian- 
 ized ; you must conform in all things to what Russian law requires 
 of a Russian bishop in the Russian Empire, and then we should 
 admit and acknowledge you as such. You would take your place 
 as a bishop among the bishops of the country, be invited to Court 
 and all State functions, and would be treated with exactly the 
 same distinction as a bishop of the Orthodox Church. But if 
 you came into Russia calling yourself Bishop of Odessa, or any 
 other place in Russia, you would," he added smilingly, " be taken 
 within twenty-four hours to the frontier, and requested to leave the 
 country." He did not seem to think that a bishop so appointed 
 would be allowed to exercise episcopal functions out of Russia. 
 
 From Prince Kantekuzin's I went to see a Mr. Hughes, one of 
 the firm of that name which has established large iron and coal 
 works at Hughesofiky, Russianizing thus their own name. It is 
 near the Sea of Azof. He wishes for an English chaplain for his 
 employes. This matter has been arranged within the last two 
 years, and I will presently describe this newly-opened-up and 
 interesting district. When the war scare consequent upon the 
 Afghan frontier afiair arose, the people of this colony sent away 
 their wives and children to England, and would themselves have 
 followed had war broken out.
 
 i887] ASSASSINATION OF THE CZAR 43 
 
 I then visited the royal stables and coach-houses, where I was 
 shown the imperial carriages and harness used at coronations, all 
 marvellously superb, halls full of them, rich in cloth of gold and 
 tissue work, closely set with masses of turquoises. Some sets for 
 eight horses, given to the Czar by the Emir of Bokhara, so 
 closely set with turquoises as almost to cover the brown leather of 
 which they are made, and are consequently in appearance blue. 
 Some of the ancient sledges are very quaint, quite little rooms, 
 which must have been comfortable though cumbrous. In these the 
 royal journeys were made in winter between Petersburg and Moscow 
 upon a narrow road made of wooden sleepers laid close together. 
 We were shown the carriage in which the Emperor Alexander was 
 being driven when killed. The hind panelling is quite shattered 
 away to the lining, the spokes of the wheels cut as though stabbed 
 with thousands of daggers. The bombs must have been thrown 
 with great accuracy. A splinter of the carriage was given to me, 
 which I possess framed as a valued relic. The coachman — himself 
 injured, as were the Cossack outriders — turned round and said, " I 
 can drive on, your Majesty?" "No," replied the Emperor, "I 
 cannot leave my poor wounded Cossacks ; I must get out and look 
 after them." The Czar was already severely wounded, but upon 
 stepping out to tend his Cossacks, the villains threw their bombs 
 again right under his feet, shattering his lower extremities to atoms. 
 He only lived to reach his palace. A more detailed account of the 
 tragic story is given by Augustus Hare in his Studies in Russia. 
 
 "On Saturday, 13 March, 1881, Alexander II communicated 
 with his family in his private chapel. A little after i p.m. he drove 
 to the military review, and then paid a visit to his cousin, the Grand 
 Duchess Catharine, and at 2 p.m. set out to return to the palace by 
 the quiet road which is bordered by the high wall of the summer 
 garden. The Czar's carriage was followed by two sledges, the first 
 containing Colonel Dvorjitsky, head of the police ; the second, 
 Captain Koch. Almost immediately a loud detonation echoed 
 through the quay of the canal, followed by thick clouds of snow and 
 debris, forced up by a bomb thrown by a man named Ry-ssakoft 
 under the Imperial carriage, bursting the back and smashing the 
 windows. The coachman tried to drive on at once, but seeing that 
 two persons, one of his Cossack outriders and a boy of fourteen 
 who was passing with a basket on his head, were wounded, the 
 Emperor insisted upon getting out of his carriage and going himself
 
 44 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 to look after them. He then turned to reproach the assassin, who 
 had been captured by Captain Koch. A considerable crowd had 
 now collected, and the Cossack, who had occupied the box of the 
 Imperial carriage, following his master implored him to return. 
 Finding that the Emperor persisted in advancing, the faithful fellow 
 then urged Colonel Dvorjitsky to caution him, but without avail. 
 The Emperor inquired carefully into the circumstances of what 
 had taken place, and then with a sad and preoccupied expression 
 was returning to his carriage, when a man who had been standing 
 by during the conversation, and had been remarked for his insolent 
 manner, raised his hands and threw a white object at the feet of the 
 Czar. It was a second bomb, which exploded immediately. A 
 column of snow and dust rose into the air, and as it cleared away, 
 amongst twenty other wounded persons, the Emperor was seen in a 
 seated posture, his uniform torn away, and the lower part of his body 
 a mass of torn flesh and broken bones. The Grand Duke Michael, 
 who had heard the first explosion in a neighbouring palace, arrived 
 just at the terrible moment, and was recognized by his brother. It 
 was proposed to carry the dying Emperor into the nearest house, 
 but in broken accents he cried, ' Quick, home, take me to the 
 palace — there— to die,' and thither he was carried, marking the 
 terrible course in blood. An hour later, 3.35 p.m., he expired, 
 having received the last sacraments, surrounded by his family." 
 
 Returning I walked over the frozen Neva just as the sun was 
 setting down the Gulf of Finland, as it had done every night since 
 my arrival, in an exquisite metallic peacock-blue sky, flashing down 
 brilliant to the end. 
 
 I referred briefly to the settlement of English and Welsh miners 
 at Hughesofiflcy, and to my interview with one of the Hughes firm 
 as to sending a chaplain to these people. These difficulties have 
 been overcome, and the chaplain of Cronstadt has now taken up his 
 residence amongst them. He has written to me this interesting 
 description of the place and his work: "The Messrs. Hughes 
 have long had it in view to make some permanent provision for the 
 spiritual oversight of their employes. Of the two or three hundred 
 British at Hughesoffky the majority come from Wales. These are 
 miners and their families. Many of the engineers are Scotch. 
 Hughesoffky is about eighty miles north of Mariopol, on the Sea of 
 Azof, on the river Kalmeis, which is the boundary of the Don 
 Cossack territory and the Government of Ekaterinslav. . . . It is a
 
 1887] WORK ENOUGH FOR A SUFFRAGAN 4^ 
 
 town of 30,000 inhabitants, all of whom are more or less depen- 
 dent on the works. It is right out on the Steppe, treeless downs 
 stretching away in every direction into infinily, fields of 6000 acres 
 numberless herds of horses, cattle, and flocks of sheep. Here and 
 there a chimney and wheel and a cluster of white cottages mark 
 the position of a coal mine. An unlovely but interesting country. 
 In the town itself coal mines, coke ovens, blast furnaces, steel 
 works, rail-rolling mills, etc., two banks, hotels, theatre, public 
 park and lakes, club, bicycle track, golf links. There are two 
 large churches for the orthodox, two synagogues, a mosque, and 
 schools for six hundred or eight hundred children. For the British 
 there is a school with a certificated mistress. For the present 
 Church services will be held in the schoolroom, but there will be no 
 difficulty in building a church. Site, material, and abundant labour 
 are ready, and the building would be merely a matter of a few 
 months' work. For the bodily needs of these people the Messrs. 
 Hughes have made excellent provision, with hospital and doctors. 
 I have entered into such a full description of the place, which I 
 hope will be my home for some time, because I think that such a 
 spot as Hughesoffky is interesting in itself, growing as it did in one 
 man's lifetime from two shepherds' huts." Baku on the Caspian is 
 also becoming a very important centre of commerce, consequent 
 upon its oil trade ; and an increasing number of our fellow-country- 
 men are taking up work there of various kinds connected with that 
 industry. The late Bishop Sandford, of Gibraltar, wrote to me not 
 long before his death of both these places. " Neither Hughesoffky 
 nor Baku Hes within the area assigned to me. . . . My work, as 
 defined by the Archbishop on my consecration, is limited to the 
 shores of the Black Sea and the Sea of Azof— as regards, that is, the 
 more eastern portion." I can therefore see no limit to my work 
 eastward. Omsk, Tomsk, Irkutsk, and Vladivostock in Siberia 
 may become chaplaincies, bringing me along the Amoor into 
 contact with the Bishop of Korea, and whatever the Anglican 
 bishops in China may be doing for Manchuria ! The present war 
 will doubtless develop extensively all that region, and bring settlers, 
 manufacturers, and commerce from one end of Siberia to the other. 
 My episcopal signature is long enough already. If I have to add 
 Eastern Asia to North and Central Europe, I shall be the Anglican 
 bishop for more than half Europe and Asia. Quite enough to 
 justify my applying for a suffragan !
 
 46 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 I took my last look at the glorious old Neva, a yard thick in its 
 winter coat, as we drove to the station. When a hole is cut for 
 the yard-scjuare ice blocks, which are driven away by thousands 
 in little rough sledges by Finlanders, who come to Petersburg 
 for the purpose, the effect in the brilliant sunshine is most 
 beautiful; they glitter along like huge square diamonds, flashing 
 out every colour of the prism. The water as it flows beneath these 
 holes, being of somewhat higher temperature than the air above 
 them, is seen to throw up a slight vapour as from warm water. 
 
 The features of the return journey to Western Europe were much 
 the same as upon the eastward. Queer old crippled beggars stand 
 at the end of the platforms, hats in hand, such as they are, bowing 
 incessantly and eagerly to passengers walking up and down. A 
 Russian seldom refuses a beggar. As the almsgiver approaches, 
 the bowing becomes deeper and more incessantly eager, the weird 
 face becoming distorted with anxiety and intense excitement, the 
 teeth showing, the rough hair drooping over the face^ and the body 
 writhing about with strange contortions. As soon as the old fellow 
 gets his alms, he crosses himself devoutly, St. Andrew-wise, and 
 falls back again into his normal condition. It is quite an event 
 in the monotony of the day when the attendant comes in to light 
 the dip candles which still "illuminate" even the first-class carriages 
 of a Russian train. 
 
 At Diinaborg I branched from the main line to Riga, the route 
 to which lies all along the river Dwina from which the town takes 
 its name ; all bound, of course, in ice. The delicious Russian tea, 
 always hot and refreshing, with its slice of lemon floating in the 
 glass, imparts a little warmth from time to time in the bitter cold. 
 The route was as dreary and monotonous as elsewhere in Russia. 
 Scattered farms, however, lie about at intervals in these Baltic 
 provinces, and a few villages, all of log-huts turned grey-brown by 
 the weather. No bird, beast, or reptile, no living creature ; the 
 natural history of these regions seems dead and buried. The 
 breaking of the ice on the Dwina, which falls into the Gulf of 
 Riga, is, I am told, very grand. A sandy spit lies in mid-stream 
 of its mouth ; upon this the roaring, thundering ice falls, obstruct- 
 ing the river's course, and creating the wildest confusion. This 
 occurs towards the end of April. 
 
 Our church at Riga is of red brick : it stands in a good position 
 upon the Dwina, which is a fine river here, some three times as
 
 iS87] NOT SORRY TO LEAVE RUSSIA 47 
 
 wide as the Neva at Petersburg. In this church I confirmed. 
 Powerful steamers are always kept moving about slowly near the 
 quays to keep the ice from getting set, and blocked about the 
 shipping. This also prevents the rush and crash of the break-up 
 in the spring doing damage to vessels. Of late years powerful ice- 
 breakers have been built: these are constructed to slide up upon 
 the ice, which is thus broken by their weight. The "Yermack," one 
 of the first, was built in England. The " Baikal," upon the lake of 
 that name, is also, I believe, English-built. The English com- 
 munity at Riga evidently make much of the bishops who visit 
 them. In the vestry are pictures of the various prelates who 
 have confirmed here, each in a gilt frame, surmounted by a mitre. 
 Bishop Trower, of Gibraltar, in 1859, Bishop Eden, the Primus of 
 Scotland, and Bishop of Moray and Ross in 1866, 1869, and i<S73, 
 Bishop Suter, of Aberdeen, in 1876 and 1882, Bishop Tozcr, of 
 Central Africa, in 1879, Bishop Douglas, of Aberdeen, in 1884. Also 
 Bishop Smith, of Victoria. The church authorities asked for my 
 portrait to add to the collection. In these Baltic provinces much 
 German is spoken, though Russia is doing her best to stamp it out, 
 as with Swedish in Finland. 
 
 From Riga the journey back over the frontier was made through 
 deepening snow, which threatened to block the line. Much fall 
 had taken place since I had passed up to Petersburg ; a train had 
 lately been blocked for four or five hours, the wind increasing the 
 difficulty by drifting it. The country about Wilna, which I had passed 
 before in the night, is rather pretty, undulating, and densely covered 
 with fir forest. Here the only tunnel from the frontier to Petersburg 
 occurs. There was no occasion for it, but the Emperor Nicholas 
 insisted upon having one because other countries had tunnels, and 
 he was not a man to be gainsaid. At Russian Wirballen, the 
 frontier station, where it seems always snowing, passports are taken, 
 and returned to travellers going westward at Eydkuhnen, the train 
 being closely guarded on both sides till it reaches the small stream 
 which forms the boundary, where the Russian guards drop off the 
 footboard. One is not altogether sorry — interesting as Russia and 
 the Russians are — to get away from the endless surveillance of 
 Russian travel, and even the train seems to feel a relief in speeding 
 away from the closely-guarded frontier, for it always seems to me — 
 and I have crossed and recrossed the Russian border very frequently 
 — to dash merrily off like a bird liberated from a snare. The
 
 48 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 drifting snow clogged the wheels, lay deep upon the steps, and 
 covered the balconies. All the way to Berlin nothing but snow, 
 snow, snow. As I waited at Friedrichstrasse station, it was very 
 picturesque to see the trains coming in from the north hanging — as 
 our own train — with a thick cornice of icicles, the carriages white 
 with frozen snow up to their roofs. The Elbe at Stendal was still 
 frozen at the sides. The scenery upon nearing Hanover is quite 
 refreshing after those endless Russian steppes, and the almost as 
 endless plains of East Prussia. 
 
 At Hanover I turned aside to confirm the boys at a military 
 institution at Alteburg, near Hameln, a quaint little old town 
 upon the Weser, situated amongst pretty wooded hills, with a 
 picturesque Rathhaus. This is the scene of Browning's " Piper of 
 Hamelin." It was infested by rats. The pied piper said he would 
 pipe them all away. The burghers agreed to give him one thousand 
 florins if he succeeded. He did — but the burghers broke their 
 promise, giving him only one hundred. In revenge he piped away 
 all the children of the place. One of the hotels is still designated 
 " Zum Rattenfanger." Pyrmont is a water-drinking place near by, 
 and Oyenhausen is another. The boys attended all three services, 
 though no pressure is put upon them to do so over fifteen yeais of 
 age. From Hameln I travelled to Amsterdam, where we have an 
 old-fashioned chapel of very Georgian type, high pews, and enormous 
 royal arms dominating the western gable. The Queen of Sweden, 
 when here for massage, attends our service in this church. The 
 energetic chaplain, Mr. Chambers, looks after our people scattered 
 round Amsterdam, in Arnheim, Gouda, Utrecht, etc., and is other- 
 wise indefatigable. From Holland I crossed in a gale, as in the 
 previous December, to Parkestone Quay, Harwich, concluding thus 
 a long and very winterly visitation of the far northern chaplaincies.
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 Brussels — First conference of chaplains — The iguanodon — Loss of the episcopal 
 hat — Brittany and its quaintnesses — Henry II and his scourging-pillar at 
 
 Avranches. 
 
 ON 21 April, 1887, I left England by Newhaven and Dieppe. 
 When off Cape d'Ailly we were not far from the ill-fated 
 Victoria of the L.B. & S.C. Company, which a few days before 
 struck upon that point beneath the lighthouse in a fog, and with 
 the loss of twenty-five lives went down upon the rocks. The 
 remark of the local French was, " What can you expect when you 
 entrust a vessel to Englishmen ! " Most of her cargo was crape, 
 which got adrift, and was twisted in large masses round the spars 
 and fittings, as though mourning her own loss. It was high tide, 
 and she lay with her funnels and masts well above water. 
 
 Upon this occasion I confirmed in All Saints' Church, and took 
 steps to extinguish the second chaplaincy here, which was not only 
 needless but mischievous. From Dieppe I went to Rouen, where 
 I confirmed in our pretty little church of Norman style, situated 
 upon an island in the Seine. The carved wood is good, in imita- 
 tion, as is also the font, of similar work in the Abbaye aux Dames 
 at Caen. In the gable of the west front is a large Tudor rose, 
 carved in stone, to commemorate the holding of the town by the 
 Duke of Bedford. 
 
 At a dinner party that evening I sat next a gentleman who was 
 living in Rouen during the German occupation. Three German 
 officers and six privates were billeted upon him for some nine 
 months, and cost him over ;,{^2oo. These Germans, however, were 
 very grateful for his kindness, writing afterwards from Germany to 
 express it. 
 
 From Rouen I went on to Paris, where I found an invitation to 
 dinner at the Embassy from Lord Lyons, which had, however, to be 
 cancelled in consequence of the death of his niece, the Duchess of 
 E 49
 
 50 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 Norfolk. The American church in Paris is very fine ; it cost 
 ;^i 00,000 and is by Street. It is said that the choir of EngUsh boys 
 from England, who are educated here, costs ^2000 a year. It is 
 the finest American church on the Continent, in pointed style, with 
 Norman triforium. The pillars and pulpit are of cream-coloured 
 marble, the rest of the building of Caen stone. I attended a com- 
 mittee meeting for the building of a new church in the Rue des 
 Bassins. The architect is French; I think the building will be a 
 success. It has been cleverly planned to suit the site, which 
 is somewhat difficult to cover. The style is to be Norman, with 
 double aisles— I call it the Mosque of Cordova with its seven 
 hundred pillars. Stone galleries are to traverse the entire building, 
 except the east end : a kind of triforium. Sir Richard Wallace 
 practically builds it for us. I preached and confirmed in both our 
 Paris churches, and then left for Brussels, where I was the guest of 
 Lord and Lady Vivian at the British Legation. We held our con- 
 ference here in the Salle des Marbres, Lord Vivian being present at 
 its sessions. I had much conversation with him upon the inexpedi- 
 ency of three chaplaincies in this city, which resulted ultimately in 
 the suppression of the third. 
 
 The Prince of Wales had been staying with the Vivians on his 
 way to Berlin. One of the little Vivian girls, now one of Queen 
 Alexandra's ladies-in-waiting, told me that the Prince gave her the 
 gardenia out of his buttonhole, and that she gave him a bunch of 
 violets to put in its place. I drove with Lady Vivian through the 
 fine park which lies just outside Brussels towards Waterloo, on the 
 edge of the forest of Soignies. She told me many interesting and 
 amusing stories of their life at the Copenhagen Legation, which was 
 very pleasant and simple compared with the stiff Court life at 
 Brussels. They were at the Legation when Gladstone and Tennyson 
 visited Copenhagen in one of Donald Currie's steamers. Lady 
 Vivian's account of Tennyson reading the " Grandmother " to the 
 Princess of Wales was delightful. In all the touching parts he put 
 his hand on her knee, she looking pathetically at him whilst he 
 looked at her, and when he continued his reading looked around 
 with intense amusement at the rest of the company. I visited the 
 British Institution with Lady Vivian, who takes much interest in it. 
 In two and a half years it has sheltered four hundred and thirty 
 governesses and servants. It is a great comfort that the habit of 
 visitors at embassies is to breakfast in their own room, and not to
 
 i887] THE IGUANODON 5, 
 
 appear till lunch ; it gives one time to work, write, read, and rest. 
 I have introduced the " embassy breakfast " on the Continent 
 wherever I stay, for I could not get through my work without it. 
 
 Our subjects at the Conference were : " Missions to our Sailors," 
 "Church Music," etc. I had a long conversation with Lord Vivian 
 about continental marriage laws. It would be dull to the ordinary 
 reader and I will not reproduce it. In stating that a British Embassy 
 is always considered and respected as English ground, he quoted 
 the case of an old lady who, when an earthquake was foretold in 
 some city, hastened to the British Embassy because she understood 
 that English ground was never shaken by earthquakes. Upon this 
 occasion I confirmed in both our Brussels churches. When the 
 houses and streets, which at present block the new Law Courts, are 
 cleared away, the building will stand out in all its massive and 
 exceeding grandeur. Nothing like this building exists in Europe, 
 "or," as an American added the other day, "on our side either, 
 sir " ; and that is no small admission for an American. All visitors 
 to Brussels should go to the Natural History Museum, and see 
 the skeleton of an enormous iguanodon discovered in the coal 
 measures of Charleroi. It is perfect, some forty feet long, the tail 
 being nearly half its length. Two large long bones depend from the 
 rump, and appear by their construction to have worked in a socket 
 to elevate and depress the enormous tail in passing over the rank 
 vegetation of his age. The hind feet are three-toed, like a camel or 
 ostrich. The fore paws, if one may so call them, are digitate, with 
 a spiked thumb, the other four fingers showing great power for tear- 
 ing up the earth in digging for roots ; they were also probably used for 
 prehensile purposes when feeding upon branches. The head is that 
 of a horse, the oral opening very large, and the eye sockets unusually 
 so, as though constructed to hold immense lenses with which to see 
 in the darkness of the age in which the monster lived. And when 
 did he live? How many thousands or millions of years before 
 Adam cultivated Eden ? Sir Savile Lumley tried to get a duplicate 
 for the British Museum, but failed. It is unique and worth the 
 journey to Brussels to see. The monster is fixed upon irons, and 
 sits up at an angle, like a kangaroo. 
 
 Almost all the extinct animals seem to have been creatures of 
 transitional construction, half mammal, half reptile, or half reptile, 
 half bird. Here is a Saurian, to all appearance, yet sitting nearly 
 upright, rending the earth when down upon it on all fours, and
 
 52 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 raising itself to pull down with its forearms the huge calamites, 
 palms, ferns, and equiseta amongst which it lived, moved, and had 
 its being. The brute would probably not have hurt man had 
 there been a man to hurt in his day ; his adaptations were 
 evidently to graze upon the gigantic vegetation which formed the 
 coal measures. A smaller specimen stands behind the larger one. 
 This creature has lately been removed into the new Natural History 
 Museum in another quarter of Brussels, and several other specimens 
 of the iguanodon, similar in size, added from the coal measures of 
 Belgium. 
 
 Ghent was my next point of visitation. Here we have a disused 
 Flemish church, of its order of architecture, interesting, and 
 the proportions good. The windows of the house where I was 
 staying looked out upon a quaint old canal, which turned here 
 almost at right angles. Huge barges like primeval monsters glided 
 by from time to time, and almost looked in upon me as I lay 
 in bed. John of Gaunt (or Ghent), son of Edward HI and father 
 of Henry IV, was born here, hence his name. To Bruges was but 
 a short step. Here I confirmed and left for Boulogne. Whether 
 the old monkish lines upon these old towns of Brussels, Ghent, and 
 Bruges still hold good I do not know. Antwerp certainly holds its 
 
 character : — 
 
 Nobilibus Bruxella viris, Antwerpia nummis, 
 Gaudanum laqueis, formosis Brugre puellis, 
 Lovanium doctis, gaudet Mechlinia stiiltis. 
 
 In crossing the frontier from Bruges to Boulogne, I fell upon one 
 of the few mishaps from which I ought to be very thankful that my 
 constant journeyings have been singularly free. I was under the 
 impression that Poperinghe was the frontier, whereas it is Abeille, 
 the next station. I turned out, leaving luggage — and even my 
 hat — in the train to walk up and down the platform. Without 
 any warning the train moved rapidly out of the station. Thinking 
 it would back in again, as the manner of trains is at frontier 
 stations, I stood awaiting its return, and then inquired. " Oh, no, 
 it had gone for good," and it was the last train that night ! 
 
 Imagine the situation, stranded for the night at a miserable road- 
 side station, my friends at Boulogne waiting for me. The kindly 
 officials were in almost as great consternation as myself. What was 
 to be done? First to telegraph to the frontier about the luggage, 
 then to Boulogne, stating that I would be there up to time (i i a.m.)
 
 i887] LOSS OF THE EPISCOPAL HAT 53 
 
 for confirmation, then to wait patiently, the hardest part of all. 
 The people in the village street as well as railway officials were most 
 sympathetic. Had I been there before? Never, and hoped I 
 never should be there again. They thought I had come to buy 
 hops, Poperinghe being a great hop centre. No, I had nothing 
 whatever to do with hops. Had they ever seen an Englishman here 
 before ? Yes, some came to buy hops. Hops were evidently the topic 
 and the product of the place. By the last train the luggage came 
 back from the frontier, but not my hat. How could I enter 
 Boulogne as I was? Telegraph office again! What kind of hat 
 was it? Un grand chapeau. Then to find a bed at the small 
 auberge. There I told my sorrows to the dirty old man and dirtier 
 old woman who kept it. The old woman preceded me to my 
 room up a rickety staircase, muttering Flemish. At 4 a.m. I was 
 awoke by something being dragged to my door, and placed there. 
 I thought the pair were barricading my room with the view of 
 cutting my throat ; so getting up I looked out. There upon a big 
 chair, dragged for the purpose from the end of the passage, sat my 
 hat, deemed too splendid to be put on the floor. It had come back 
 by a goods train, and was in admirable order. The agony I suffered 
 from that strayed hat made me abandon from that date the epis- 
 copal headpiece as worn in England. I have never taken one 
 abroad since. It is misunderstood by continental nations — ridicu- 
 lous in the eyes of the foreigner — besides being eminently uncom- 
 fortable and doomed to damage. Had there been any one to meet 
 me at the Boulogne station I should have been in ample time for 
 the confirmation, having telegraphed my arrival at ro.40 a.m. 
 However, those concerned thought they knew their continental 
 Bradshaw better than I did, and judging my arrival in time to be 
 impossible, the congregation was dismissed just as I arrived. How- 
 ever, it was but a postponement, and I confirmed in both the 
 Boulogne churches that afternoon. 
 
 From Boulogne I crossed to England, returning again on 9 May 
 to visit the Brittany chaplaincies, travelling to Dinan via South- 
 ampton and St. Malo. The whole of Brittany was white with aj)ple- 
 blossom through the endless orchards abounding in this region— 
 apples-trees and magpies, the latter the sacred bird of Brittany. 
 The ruins of La Garaye, with its picturesque dovecot, the scene of 
 Mrs. Norton's poem, are worth a visit. A dovecot in France is a 
 mark of nobility, the nobles being allowed to keep pigeons to feed
 
 54 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 upon their dependents' crops— part of the old tyrannies that bred 
 the Revolution. In the beech woods hereabouts are huts occupied 
 by sabot-makers. A fine instance of a Druidical stone stands on this 
 route; it is situated in a fir plantation, is twenty feet out of the 
 ground, and probably nearly as much below. The idea of treasure 
 being hid under these monoliths has caused them to be dug about 
 and upset. This one has fallen nearly over in consequence, the 
 earth having been removed. It is of granite, of the Dartmoor com- 
 position, coarse with large seams of feldspar. The granite formation 
 upon which this part of Brittany stands runs presumably under the 
 sea, and formed at some age of the world one country. 
 
 On the way back to Dinan I stopped to look at the new railway 
 bridge over the rocky gorge of the Ranee. It was put together on 
 the high rocky bank ; to it was lashed a smaller bridge, which now 
 stands two miles away over a dry gorge. By balancing these care- 
 fully and rolling them upon rollers, the smaller one was lodged on 
 the other side upon the massive piers which carried the structure, and 
 then the heavier bridge was drawn over behind the smaller one till 
 placed in situ. The fine viaduct which spans the river at Dinan 
 was begun by Louis Philippe and finished by Napoleon III. 
 Lieutenant Bessomond, a young French cavalry officer quartered 
 here, came and spent the evening with my host and hostess. He 
 told us that he had been commissioned to buy a large number of 
 horses. My hostess said she hoped that it didn't mean war, as they 
 didn't want German soldiers quartered on them again ! Here at 
 Dinan we have a beautiful little stone church, with good glass by 
 Clayton and Bell. Lahon Abbey is a pleasant walk from Dinan. 
 The abbey church is being restored to take the place of the little 
 old parish church. The architect is one of the abbey priests. We 
 disputed the faithfulness of the restoration as not following the 
 original Norman. " II faut creer," he said ; to which I replied, aside, 
 to the chaplain, " II faut re-creer." He put what we call Norman 
 two centuries later than our Norman date, calling our Norman 
 "Romanesque." What we call Norman is in French called "plain 
 centre " and " ogivale." A fabric of coarse canvas exists in the 
 village, no doubt introduced and taught by the monks, a large 
 extinct factory being built into the cloisters of the abbey. Just as 
 at Buckfastleigh, in Devonshire, the serge factory lives while the 
 abbey which introduced the fabric is dead. The Jerzual is the most 
 picturesque street in Dinan ; it was the only entrance to the place
 
 1887] SCOURGING-PILLAR AT AVRANCHES 55 
 
 before the viaduct was built. It crosses the old bridge and climbs 
 up through a beautiful archway to the town. One or more artists 
 are almost always at work in this old quarter. The church of 
 St. Sauveur is well worth a visit. A Norman nave, a flamboyant 
 aisle, and pillars without capitals. In the north transejit is an 
 upright stone recording in old Breton French that the heart of 
 Du Guesclin, constable of France, is buried here, but that the rest 
 of his body lies at " S. Denis en France," in contradistinction to 
 Brittany, which at that time did not form part of France. The 
 fourteenth-century apse and flying buttresses overlooking the Jardin 
 Anglais and the river valley forms quite a picture. The other 
 church is almost a counterpart of St. Sauveur. They are twins. It 
 was market-day, and all very quaint ; hundreds of calves lying as if 
 dead, their feet tied together. Old Breton women down on their 
 knees shearing their sheep, an operation serving two purposes — to 
 make the sheep carry it to market, and to sell the wool apart from 
 the sheep. The Breton cap differs from the high cap of Normandy, 
 standing up over the forehead like the barge-board of a gable, and 
 is always perfectly clean and highly starched. 
 
 From Dinan I went to Avranches for confirmation work. The 
 view down upon Mont St. Michel from the public gardens is 
 extremely fine. It lies in the glittering sea, itself glittering like 
 a big jewel. The old cathedral of Avranches was destroyed in the 
 revolution of 1789. A poor thing fills its place. Near the west 
 end stands a stone surrounded by posts and chains upon which 
 Henry II of England received absolution from the Papal Legate for 
 the murder of Thomas a Becket. A pillar stands within the same 
 enclosure, possibly that to which he was bound when scourged. A 
 copper plate bears this inscription : "Sur cette pierre, ici, a la porte 
 de la Cathedrale d' Avranches apres le meurtre de Thomas Becket, 
 Archeveque de Cantorbery, Henri II roi d'Angleterre, et Due de 
 Normandie regut a genoux des legats du pape I'absolution 
 Apostolique, le Dimanche xxi Mai. mclxxii." 
 
 Returning to St. Malo I confirmed and preached there, and at 
 St. Servan. The view down over the bay and islands from the old 
 houses on the St. Malo walls is very beautiful, the island of 
 Sesambres and that on which Chateaubriand is buried are — in this 
 archipelago of islands — marked features of the St. Malo Bay. 
 
 Crossing to Southampton, I returned to England as I came.
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 
 Palace at Coblenz — Interview with Prince Louis of Hesse at Darmstadt — Visit 
 to Prince Alexander of Bulgaria at Jugenheim Palace— Confirmation in 
 Palace chapel at Darmstadt : Grand Duke and Princess Irene present — 
 Bishop Ilertzog and the Old Catholics — Visit to Dr. Dollinger at Munich and 
 to Professor Friedrich — Consecration of Embassy chapel in Vienna — St. 
 Stephen's Cathedral — The Western Gate of the East — The Danube — A 
 " langsam " journey. 
 
 ON 26 May, 1887, I left for Belgium via Antwerp, making my 
 first halt at Spa for confirmation work. Here we have a large 
 and beautiful church, built in the days when Spa was a place of 
 considerable English resort, and containing many good English 
 families. It stands high, and is very healthy. The baths are 
 extensive, and the environs well wooded. In Koln Cathedral, on 
 my way to Coblenz between two trains, I listened to the first part 
 of a sermon upon the text, " Siehe da, ich lege einen ausverwahlten, 
 Kostlichen Eckstein." A very old stone, a very honourable stone 
 — Ehrenstein — the preacher told us, the only stone upon which sin 
 could be laid for pardon. It was Whitsun-Eve, and a large con- 
 gregation was listening attentively. At Coblenz we held our 
 service at that time under the kindly wing of the good Empress 
 Augusta, in a room of her palace, fitted for the purpose. After 
 service on Whit-Sunday I called upon Countess Hacke in the 
 palace, the Empress's favourite lady. She was preparing for her 
 royal mistress, who, she said, would be sorry to miss seeing me. 
 Coblenz is the paradise of nightingales ; at this season the Anlagen 
 by the Rhine swarms with them. Here, in these gardens, the 
 Empress Augusta used to hold levees, sitting in her Bath-chair 
 listening to the band. In the palace grounds are four very fine 
 polonias, the Germans call them "kaiser's baumen," at this season a 
 mass of splendid blue flowers like gigantic wisteria blossoms. The 
 palace was built by a Prince-Archbishop of Trier, as the archi- 
 episcopal residence. The Empress's private apartments were very 
 
 56
 
 t887] RUDESHEIM WINE 57 
 
 snug and pretty, hung with several pictures of our Royal Family 
 given to the Empress by our Queen. In the Emperor's little room 
 stood the desk at which he wrote, and his old knotted walking-stick, 
 not unlike himself, stood in a corner. A large chart of Europe 
 upon an easel which he used daily during the Crimean War, the 
 movements of the troops marked by himself with coloured papers 
 stuck on with pins. Also a large bird's-eye view of London. The 
 smoke made it look as if under a bombardment, and I turned to 
 the Germans about me and asked if it represented London under a 
 German bombardment ! Li another room I was shown the clock 
 and candelabra of Sevres china given by the Emperor to the 
 Empress on her last birthday. The views from the front windows 
 upon the Rhine and toward Stolzenfels and downwards to Ehren- 
 breitstein are beautiful. Old Countess Hacke, faithful to the end 
 as our guide, and only able to speak the one English word " charm- 
 ing," repeated it alternately with its German equivalent, " charming, 
 charming — schon, schon." 
 
 At a large reception at the chaplain's after the confirmation I 
 met amongst others old Heinrich Espenschied, the owner of the 
 famous Rudesheim vineyards situated round the Germania Monu- 
 ment. He asked me to come and see the fine new house he had 
 built in the Clements Platz, but I said I had no time. However, 
 as I walked later in the Anlagen Gardens I met him near the 
 Clements Platz. " Now," he said, " you must come and see my 
 house, and taste my Rudesheim." It is certainly a grand mansion, 
 built by Rudesheim wine of Trier and Andernach stone. As I stood 
 looking at it from outside, I said, "What a height it is!" "Yes," 
 he repHed, "and as much below as above, and full of Rudesheim ! " 
 He left me in the dining-room, and after an absence of about ten 
 minutes, returned, balancing tenderly a bottle of Rudesheim and 
 a huge old-fashioned green German wineglass nearly a foot high. 
 "There," said the old gentleman, "that is the best in Europe, 
 date 1868, and will keep for a hundred years, and you must drink it 
 all, every drop." The Coblenz people vie with each other in 
 endeavouring to please the Empress Augusta with some little new 
 additions to her beloved Anlagen Gardens. Old Countess Hacke 
 has just added, as a birthday gift to Her Majesty, a small swan 
 and duck island with little houses for the birds upon it. I made 
 an entry in the Coblenz record-book, expressing my regret that Her 
 Majesty was not here during my visit, that I might have thanked
 
 58 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [i^S; 
 
 her in person for all her goodness to our Church, asking that this 
 might be read to the Empress. 
 
 Upon my arrival at Darmstadt from Coblenz, finding that the 
 Grand Duke wished to see me, I went to the palace at half-past 
 ten a.m. The Duke did not seem to have anything of a 
 business nature connected with the chaplaincy, of which he is 
 patron, to talk over. It was his kindly wish to receive me. He 
 spoke only of current events, of the Russian plots against the 
 Emperor's life, and of the Bulgarian difficulties. I told him that 
 I hoped to go to Bulgaria, perhaps that autumn, and said I should 
 be glad of any information as to English communities in that 
 region, which touches the Bishop of Gibraltar's sphere of work. 
 He told me that Prince Alexander of Bulgaria was out at Jugen- 
 heim Palace, and would be glad to see me and give me any 
 information. 
 
 We talked also of the Queen's Jubilee, to which he was going. 
 As I was leaving the palace a message came from Princess Eliza- 
 beth (Grand Duchess Serge of Russia) that she would like to see 
 me. I went back and was shown into another room, where I 
 found the Grand Duke again with his three daughters, the Grand 
 Duchess EHzabeth of Russia, Princess Irene, now Princess Heinrich 
 of Prussia, and Princess Alice, now Empress of Russia. The 
 Grand Duchess Serge spoke of my having called at her palace in 
 Petersburg, of Sir R. Morier, the British Ambassador there, of 
 the Jubilee in England to which they were all going, and of the 
 confirmation to-morrow. 
 
 When I left the palace I drove to the station and took the train 
 for Bickenbach, from whence I drove up to Jugenheim, beautifully 
 situated amongst the fir-clad hills of the Landstrasse, and looking 
 over the Rhinegau. Upon arrival I found that Prince Alexander 
 had driven into Darmstadt. I thereupon sent in my card to his 
 father, old Prince Alexander, uncle of the present Emperor of 
 Russia and brother of the late Empress. I was requested to go 
 in and see him. The old soldier received me most cordially and 
 we had a long talk. He had the command of all the troops in 
 i860 against Prussia, a sad time for our Princess Alice, carrying 
 war into her own Grand Duchy, and necessitating bringing her 
 husband into conflict with his brother-in-law's troops. Prince 
 Alexander was an exceedingly handsome old man ; still a perfect 
 military figure, with a fine expression of countenance, and a most
 
 i«S7] VISIT TO PRINCE ALEXANDER ^^j 
 
 genial, delightful manner. He talked much about Russian and 
 Bulgarian affairs, then of the current topics in Europe, about my 
 continental work and its extent. When I rose to go he said that 
 his son would be back about two o'clock ; and that if I would stay 
 till then he would be very glad to see me, adding thai he took the 
 greatest interest in everything relating to Bulgaria, and would tell 
 me all I wanted to know. I said I would walk and look at the 
 grounds till the Prince returned. I then took my leave and went 
 and sat about in the gardens of this very pretty little palace, where 
 our Queen once stayed, and to which she refers with such delight 
 in Princess Alice's Memoirs. It is situated in the forest amongst 
 wooded hills, commanding lovely views of immense extent, the 
 Rhine being just visible in the far distance ; and beyond, the hills 
 of Alsace. 
 
 At about 2 p.m. an open Stanhope and pair came through the 
 grounds driven by Prince Alexander. I returned to the palace, and 
 in a few moments the hero of Plevna entered and received me most 
 warmly. He was very handsome, with a fine military figure and 
 very bronzed face. I was given to understand in Darmstadt that 
 he had never altogether recovered from the ill-treatment he received 
 at the time of his capture by the Russians, and now lately an attack 
 of smallpox had pulled him back again. His hand, I noticed, 
 shook, as one weak and recovering from an illness. I asked him 
 if there were any Enghsh in Bulgaria. He thought not. At Varna 
 there were perhaps sailors and merchants. On this side of the 
 Balkans, he said, the country was bare and treeless, but that 
 Bulgaria was a fine country, and Eastern Roumelia a garden, ex- 
 ceedingly beautiful and fertile. I told him that the English took 
 a great interest in him and his affairs, and that none amongst the 
 royal personages at the forthcoming Jubilee would be more heartily 
 welcomed. "Yes," he said, "the English have always been very 
 good to me." In taking my leave, I said I had every hope that 
 His Royal Highness would come to his right again in Bulgaria. 
 He thanked me warmly and said, " If at any time you want me 
 to do anything for you in Bulgaria, let me know and I will telegraph 
 your wishes to my people there, who will do anything for me." 
 
 He was born in Verona in 1859, when his father was in command 
 of the Austrian troops against France. Lately his old nurse, a 
 Veronese, made a pilgrimage to see him. She travelled all alone, 
 knowing no German, bringing her provisions with her, and usmg
 
 6o CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 only the word " Darmstadt." She got through the entire journey 
 with that one word. When she reached him she fell at his feet, 
 and bursting into tears, told him how her heart had ached for him 
 in all his troubles. She was kindly cared for at the palace for 
 several days, till sufficiently rested for her return journey. Her 
 Italian dress excited much interest in the quiet streets of Darmstadt. 
 
 I always look out for storks' nests at this season of the year 
 between Darmstadt and Basle. They build upon house chimneys 
 and saddleback church towers. They do not winter in Germany, 
 but in Africa, returning in the spring with the other migrants. The 
 male comes first and returns for his mate. If the weather is very 
 rough they depart, and do not come back till the next year. 
 
 I confirmed, as upon the former occasion at Darmstadt, in the 
 Grand Duke's royal chapel candidates from here, Heidelberg, 
 Wiesbaden, Frankfurt, and Homburg. The Grand Duke and 
 Princess Irene were present, occupying again the royal gallery at 
 the west end. From Darmstadt I went on to Freiburg for con- 
 firmation and other work. Over the Red Lion Gasthaus at 
 Altgliishutte on the Tittesee, above Freiburg, is this quaint polyglot 
 
 verse : — 
 
 In diesem Gasthaus trovarete 
 Alles gut was man souhaite 
 Bonuni vinum, niultum carnis 
 Schones pferd und gutes harness. 
 
 Going on to Zurich I stayed with Dr. Heidenheim at his fine old- 
 fashioned Swiss house out at ZoUekofen — panelled walls and ceilings 
 filled with portraits, pictures, china, rare old works of art, and a 
 good library. The house stands high above the lake with wide 
 prospects. My room looked out upon three aspects, one towards 
 Zurich, one upon the vine-clad slopes to the lake, the third to the 
 snow mountains, towards Coire and the Grisons. Here I confirmed 
 in the most hideous building on the Continent which calls itself the 
 English church. I spoke of this as a disgrace to our Church and 
 nation. It proved the turning-point to better things, and to the 
 church we now possess in that important place. Upon entering 
 Berne I had a glorious view — not by any means always vouchsafed 
 to the traveller — of the Bernese Oberland ; when it is vouchsafed it 
 is very grand. The burst of view down upon the lake of Geneva 
 on emerging from the tunnel at Chexbres is always a compensation 
 for the somewhat monotonous run from Berne.
 
 '^^87] THE OLD CATHOLICS 6, 
 
 At Lausanne I stayed with Mr. Langton, of Barrow Mouse, on 
 Derwentwater. Upon this occasion I consecrated the very excellent 
 church built by Mr. Street, the chaplains of Lausanne, Ceneva, 
 Terntet, Aigle, Aix-les-Bains, and others taking part in the service! 
 The church is well decorated and adorned with valuable gifts! 
 including several good windows by Clayton and Bell. 'I'he Sunday! 
 school here is one of the best I have found on the Continem. 
 After confirming I left for Berne, and visited Dr. Hcrtzog, the Old 
 Catholic bishop for Switzerland. I had a long talk with him upon 
 the subject of our Legation having withdrawn from attending our 
 services in his church, and the consequent withdrawal of our 
 chaplain. In expressing my regret, I told him that the step was 
 taken before I came into office. We discussed the difficulties of 
 the Old Catholics at Lucerne, in which he asked my help. I 
 promised to write to the Hausers, who are the large hotel pro- 
 prietors there, asking their influence in removing the Old Catholic 
 disabilities existing in that place. He also asked my help in 
 England in aid of his Student Fund. A student can be trained 
 for I GOO francs a year. Bishop Hertzog is a noteworthy man, 
 evidently doing well, and is a born leader of men, as his name 
 indicates. 
 
 I was now bound for Munich, having arranged to stay en route 
 with Dr. Heidenheim and his friend Mr. Howell at a castle upon 
 vineyard property they had bought at Weinfelden. I arrived via 
 Zurich late in the evening. The castle is entered by a fine hall, 
 hung with old portraits. A double gallery to the roof runs round 
 two sides of the hall, under which there are dungeons and a torture 
 chamber. I looked out at midnight. An owl was hooting; the 
 little mountain stream watering the castle grounds was the only 
 other sound, except a few Swiss returning home from a wirthschaft 
 and singing on their way. 
 
 At 5.30 a.m. Dr. Heidenheim opened a window somewhere above 
 and wound his horn to call the vignerons to their work in the vine- 
 yards. After breakfast I ascended the castle tower with the vine- 
 dresser, who with his wife lives in and desecrates the beautiful little 
 old chapel in the grounds. The old man informed me that the 
 view commands not only a large part of Switzerland, the Orisons to 
 the beginning of the Oberland, and the heavy mass of the Sentis, 
 but extends also into Austria and Germany. "Over yonder," he said, 
 " is Italy, and away to the west is France." I asked him if we
 
 62 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 could not see England. He thought not ! Feldkirch, in Austria, 
 lies away at the end of the Lake of Constance. A pretty story is 
 told of that place. It was besieged by the French. It was Easter 
 Eve. The inhabitants thought it better not to hold their Easter 
 services, the situation being desperate. One of the besieged came 
 forward, however, and said, " Why should we abandon our Easter 
 services, let us hold them, and trust in God." The people assented, 
 and they set the bells ringing. The French, thinking the besieged 
 were rejoicing at having descried reinforcements on their way from 
 Bregenz, raised the siege, and Feldkirch was saved. 
 
 From Weinfelden I crossed the Lake of Constance by Romans- 
 horn to Lindau in Bavaria, a one and a half hour passage. The 
 head of the lake is very beautiful, closed by the snow mountains 
 behind Bregenz. I found Munich C7i fete, being Corpus Christi. 
 The processions enormous, extending through the streets for three 
 hours, with visitations to temporary altars erected in the squares 
 and chief places and ending at the cathedral. Lines of soldiers on 
 horseback keeping back the crowd to allow the thousands of 
 choristers, bishops, priests, deacons, Church dignitaries, monks of 
 all orders and habits, personages civil and ecclesiastical, to pass, the 
 principal being the Archbishop of Munich and the Regent walking 
 beneath a sumptuous canopy of silver and satin, surrounded by 
 officers of state, bodyguard with their halberds, trumpeters, etc. 
 The Regent is uncle of the late King, who had drowned himself in the 
 Lake of Starnberg the previous year. He is a fine, handsome man, 
 with a grizzly moustache and beard, looking in his red uniform like 
 an English general. 
 
 I lunched with Mr. (now Sir Victor) Drummond, our charge 
 d'affaires, who was present at the confirmation. I told him that 
 his nephew, young Drummond, son of Lord Strathallan, who was 
 killed at Ulundi, often came to my house in Zululand. Mr. and 
 Mrs. Drummond were staying on the Starnberger see, near the late 
 King's palace at the time of his death. They were the first to see 
 the bodies of the King and Dr. Gudden. The expression upon the 
 King's face was calm, a blow, as though dealt by a stone, was visible 
 upon his forehead. After the struggle between him and his doctor, 
 traces of which were plainly visible, they seemed to have walked 
 quietly together along the shore ; and then it is supposed that the King 
 rushed into the lake, followed by Dr. Gudden, that they struggled 
 together in the water — both being very powerful men — till they were
 
 1887] THE CATHEDRAL AT MUNICH 63 
 
 drowned. Two girls of good birth hut reduced means not long 
 after did the same at the same spot. They left a letter in their 
 room stating tliat tliey could no longer bear thu trials and sorrows 
 of life. 
 
 The Pinakotek Callery of ancient masters is the art centre of 
 Munich. Murillo's four celebrated pictures of Spanish boys are in 
 this collection. One cabinet room is given entirely to Van der Werf's 
 pictures, and is the gem room of the gallery. One is the " Cruci- 
 fixion." It represents St. John as about twenty : he stands by the 
 Cross in an olive-green robe, covering his face ; the figure is touch- 
 ingly beautiful. An " Assumption "—angels bearing the clouds on 
 steel-blue wings— is fine. There are some fine Rembrandts and 
 Raphaels in the collection, but the Munich galleries are by no 
 means equal to those at Amsterdam and Dresden. 
 
 From the galleries I went and called upon Dr. Dollinger. As I 
 sat waiting for him, I noticed that books lay about everywhere, and 
 a few portraits hung upon the walls. He soon came in, a quiet, 
 placid, dignified old student, somewhat tall, and slightly stooping, 
 with a soft, sweet, cultivated voice. I told him what I had done 
 about the Old Catholics in Austria. He took great pains to explain 
 his views upon the Old Catholic movement generally, adding that 
 he was not altogether conversant with it in Austria, but believed 
 that a political element was somewhat sharply shaping its course in 
 that country. That the Czechs, among whom Huss's name was a 
 great power, took a line in opposition to the German nationality. 
 In reply to a request for his counsel as to the attitude which it 
 would be wise that 1 should assume towards the Old Catholics in 
 Vienna, he recommended caution, saying that to an English prelate 
 the Austrian Government would be personally polite, with whom 
 they would be anxious to go as far as possible, but pointing out at 
 the same time what I already knew, that the Austrian Government 
 is exceedingly sensitive upon the Old Catholic question. He re- 
 ferred to what Bishop Hertzog had told me at Berne, that Bishop 
 Reinkens, of Bonn, had lately been forbidden to cross the Austrian 
 frontier with a view to carry episcopal offices to the Old Catholic 
 body in that country. Dr. DoUinger, old and feeble, spoke very 
 slowly in English, choosing his words with much deliberation and 
 care. He did almost all the talking, and I was glad that it should 
 be so. In conclusion, he said, " The Austrian Government will, of 
 course, be ready to listen to anything you may advance through
 
 64 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL L1887 
 
 Sir Augustus Paget, your Ambassador, because they will wish to 
 stand well with England, but I doubt if they would give leave even 
 to an English jjielate to confirm Old Catholics. However," he 
 added, " I should be glad if you would call upon your return 
 through Munich and let me know the result of your visit to Vienna." 
 I told him that I should not be in Munich again, but would let him 
 know if I had anything to communicate. 
 
 I then took my leave, and went to call upon Dr. Friedrich. He 
 is a much younger man, with a very courteous and eager manner, 
 altogether different from Dollinger's quiet, old-fashioned, didactic 
 style. He was most warm in his thanks for my sympathy with the 
 Old Catholic body ; told me that the Austrian Old Catholics wished 
 him to be their bishop ; said that the Austrian Government desired 
 a persona grata to be chosen whenever the time came for the 
 appointment, but that the Government was " sehr eisenherzisch " 
 about it all. He spoke entirely in German, knowing no English. 
 I therefore lost much, for he speaks with the rapidity of an eager 
 man, and is not easy to follow. Dr. Friedrich is Professor of 
 History in the University of Munich. He is probably, next to 
 Dollinger and Delitzsch, of Leipzig, the most learned theologian in 
 Germany. His hair is long and red, and flows over his coat collar ; 
 his face is large, smooth, and round — a modern Martin Luther. 
 
 I visited the cathedral, which I had only seen hurriedly on 
 Corpus Christi day. It is of red brick, brown with age, dating 
 from about the fourteenth century, of immense length, lancet 
 windows from roof to ground seventy feet high. Two curious 
 towers of brick, surmounted by small domes, stand at the west end 
 like minarets. The whole building has a smack of Turkey about 
 it. The tomb of the Emperor Maximilian is a fine bronze structure 
 at the intersection of the transepts. A canopy, richly chased, 
 covers it, and four life-sized figures, in armour, guard the corners. 
 The cathedral still wore its Corpus Christi decorations : the entire 
 nave was set with young birch trees twenty feet high, and being 
 placed against the pillars which stand close together, formed one 
 continuous avenue. 
 
 Leaving Munich by the evening train via Salzburg, I opened my 
 eyes upon the grand old Danube rolling along close to the railway 
 amongst wooded hills, such as those in the Black Forest, among 
 which he takes his birth. I had travelled to Vienna to consecrate 
 the Embassy church, and did so in the presence of the British
 
 i887] JUBILEE ADDRESS TO QUEEN VICTORIA 65 
 
 Ambassador, Sir Augustus Paget, the President of the Old CathoUc 
 body, Herr Sinnek, Pfarrer Czech, the Old Catholic priest, etc., etc. 
 These Austrian Old Catholics speak no F.nglish. I expressed my 
 sympathy with their cause, and told them what we were doing, and 
 hoped to do, for them in England. They said that the Austrian 
 Government favoured all other bodies but theirs, that it was schr 
 schwer, for there was a party in the Government who wanted to take 
 everything from them. Here, however, in Vienna, the Government 
 had given them the curious little chapel in the old town hall ; they 
 had another church at Ried, and in one other place. 
 
 After the consecration I drove to Schonbrunn Palace, very beauti- 
 ful in design and proportion, overlooking extensive gardens with 
 walks of clipped hedges twenty to thirty feet high. The Gloriette 
 on the opposite hill is a graceful building in Italian style, a gateway 
 colonnaded and winged, carrying bronze statues and chariots. It was 
 here that Napoleon I, having conquered Austria and married Maria 
 Theresa, perpetuated the Austrian alliance in the person of his son, 
 Napoleon II. It was here also, by a grim piece of historical irony, 
 that Metternich destroyed the wretched boy's health before he was 
 twenty by every kind of debauchery and vice. 
 
 On returning to Vienna we passed the Emperor, who had 
 become iron grey and much aged. The English Consul showed 
 me the beautifully designed cover for the Jubilee Address to our 
 Queen, signed by the English of Vienna. The leather work, for 
 which Vienna is celebrated, chased all over with blue and green 
 enamel work, richly overlaid with silver gilt, and bearing in the 
 centre the royal arms of England. Above and below the royal 
 arms, in two small medallions in enamel, are the dates i S3 7-1 88 7. 
 The address inside is beautifully illuminated, the wording is much 
 the same as others from all parts of the world. 
 
 I had a long talk with Sir Augustus Paget about politics and 
 chaplaincy matters. He told me that the Votive Kirche here was 
 built in 1852, on the spot where the Emperor's life was attempted 
 when he was but twenty years of age. The would-be assassin was 
 a Hungarian, who stabbed him in the neck while reviewing liis 
 troops ; the bullion of his military collar prevented the wound being 
 a fatal one. At the Embassy I met Mr. Maud and Mr. (now Sir) 
 Constantine Phipps, both attached to the Em'oassy. Later on in the 
 day Sir Augustus asked if I would again talk over our chaplaincy 
 matters with him. I did so, and endeavoured to settle some
 
 66 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [i«87 
 
 difficulties. At the confirmation several of the Old Catholic body 
 were present, with whom I visited their little chapel in the old town 
 hall. 
 
 The cathedral of St. Stephen is a beautiful piece of decorated 
 Gothic. The best view of the spire, which is particularly graceful, 
 is gained from a side street, from whence one looks directly up to 
 the cross ; it is a miracle of gorgeously fashioned stonework. On 
 the Emperor's last birthday a young fellow climbed the lightning 
 conductor and planted the Austrian flag upon the cross. The 
 Emperor sent for him and gave him a watch. A boy tried the same 
 feat shortly afterwards, hoping also for a watch ; he could not man- 
 age it, and upon descending was put in prison. The interior of the 
 cathedral is most disappointing. The stone which is affirmed to 
 have killed St. Stephen is shown in a frame, worn by pilgrims and 
 devotees touching and kissing it. The miracle-working picture of 
 the Virgin is always crowded about with sick folk seeking cures. It 
 was so marred that a wire grating had to be placed in front of it. 
 
 In the Belvedere Picture Gallery are some good pictures, crowded, 
 however, with uninteresting Rubens and poor specimens of the 
 Italian school. The Dutch school is fairly represented. Murillo's 
 " St. John with the Lamb " is very disappointing. 
 
 An interesting luncheon-party at the Belle Vue Hotel followed, 
 consisting of English newspaper correspondents : Brindley Richards 
 of the Times, the correspondent of the Daily News, and the 
 Constantinople correspondent of the Standard, Greek charge 
 d'affaires, etc. etc. 
 
 A short passage by steamer up the Danube and Zahn rad Bahn to 
 Kahlenberg, from whence a fine view of Vienna below, with the 
 Danube winding in its two channels on the edge of the city, is 
 worth taking. A rapidly flowing canal is led off from the Danube 
 through the city, for Vienna is not upon the river, the entrance to 
 which is protected by ponderous iron gates of enormous strength 
 to resist the pressure of the ice, which comes down in great force 
 during the winter months. 
 
 Vienna may be called the " Western Gate of the East," and has 
 a decided Oriental flavour about it. It was held at one time, as all 
 the world knows, or ought to know, by the Turks. The Rathhaus 
 Platz is grand, magnificent buildings on all sides, and gardens with 
 shady walks. In the midst of this Platz is the Parliament House, a 
 fine building in Grecian style, surmounted at each corner by bronze
 
 1887] A "LANGSAM" JOURNEY 67 
 
 chariots, charioteers, and horses. Opposite the Parhamcnt House 
 is the State Opera House. Standing rather back is the new Rath- 
 haus, a Gothic building of enormous si/.e, with lofty s[)ire, said to be 
 the most perfect modern Gothic structure in Europe. Then follow the 
 palace and the university, till the eye wearies with gigantic build- 
 ings. All is new, white, glaring, and almost oppressive. A city of 
 gardens and huge buildings, lofty houses of highly decorated con- 
 tinental architecture, as if the place had woke up in the nineteenth 
 century to find itself behind the rest of European capitals which 
 was probably the case — and had given a titanic building order to 
 redeem its reputation. 
 
 By an unfortunate error I took the wrong night train from Vienna 
 to Koln, whither I was bound. Got into a stopping instead of an 
 express train, and did not discover my mistake till the night was far 
 spent. Thirty-two hours in consequence between Vienna and Koln 
 instead of twenty-four. When I awoke next morning at 4 a.m., ex- 
 pecting to be at Salzburg, I found myself only at Linz, on the 
 Danube. At Passau, over the frontier in Bavaria, I telegraphed my 
 mistake to my host at Koln, stating that I should be unable to 
 arrive till early the next morning — two nights and a day of intense 
 heat, dust, fatigue, and weariness. 
 
 From Passau to Regensburg (Ratisbon) the Danube is very 
 fine. Grand old church towers, like stout minarets, surmounted 
 by little coloured onion-shaped cupolas, give a very Eastern tone to 
 the landscape. The Valhalla, a copy of the Parthenon and of 
 identical proportions, stands up over the Danube near Ratisbon. 
 The cathedral of Ratisbon carries two lofty heavy spires of open 
 stonework like that at Freiburg mightily magnified. These spires 
 are surrounded by four spirelettes. Quaint old towered houses are 
 the feature of the city, with the superb cathedral rising out of and 
 dominating all. Clusters of picturesque villages indicate the neigh- 
 bourhood of the Black Forest. Niiremburg, with its old towered 
 walls and wealth of antique architecture; Wartzburg, upon the 
 Maine, with its grand cathedral and black domes surrounded by 
 graceful spires, looking up at the large inhabited castle, forms a fine 
 picture. In those days there was no grand Hauptbahnhof at 
 Frankfurt. Some half-dozen lines had some half-dozen shahl)y 
 termini, anchored side by side in a great dreary station-yard, to 
 which the traveller had to transfer himself according as his destina- 
 tion might require. From the Bayrische to the Maine -Neckar
 
 68 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 Bahnhof accordingly I had to wearily transfer myself, and down the 
 old Rhine we rumbled that hottest of all hot nights I almost ever 
 experienced, till in the morning light Koln was at last reached after 
 thirty-two hours of continual travel in heat, dust, and famine. 
 Under the circumstances I was not very ready for the confirmation 
 which shortly followed. 
 
 From Koln I travelled to Antwerp en route for England, an old 
 German railway official having informed the Great Eastern Railway 
 continental agent that he had reserved a compartment for the Herr 
 Englische Bischof. A compensation for the Vienna- Koln journey, 
 and an unusual attention for a German official to bestow.
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 Copenhagen— Consecration of St. Alban's Church— Luncheon on board the 
 Osborne— A. banquet at Fredensborg- The King and Queen of Denmark, 
 Emperor and Empress of Russia, King and Queen of Greece, Prince and 
 Princess of Wales " At Home "—An historical autumn gathering— Goteborg 
 and the Goteborg licensing system— The Venice of the North— Hamburg. 
 
 THIS was an unusually interesting journey and full of incident 
 of what may well be called historical character. 
 
 I left England on 13 September by way of Harwich and Rotter- 
 dam — there was no Hook of Holland in those days — and opened 
 my eyes upon the first white frost of the winter near Bremen, just 
 six months since I left it behind me coming down from Russia. 
 Then on through Hamburg and up Schleswig-Holstein to the 
 Danish frontier at Vamdrup, and into the narrow, flat, windswept 
 peninsula of Jutland, lying between the Baltic and the North Sea. 
 The cows of this region wear an A-shaped yoke to prevent them 
 from breaking through the fences, for the lands of our ancestors 
 here in Angleland are fenced after the fashion of the lands of their 
 descendants in the new Angleland, or England as we call it, across 
 the sea. When the Danish custom officers catch sight of the red 
 convocation robes in my baggage, they think that I am an English 
 officer going up to Copenhagen with his scarlet uniform, and 
 hurriedly shutting up bag and baggage bow me politely by. At 
 Fredericia passengers for Copenhagen are transferred from the train, 
 unless they choose to sit in their carriage, to a large ferry which 
 takes over part of the train and the mails. The passage across this 
 part of the Little Belt to Middlefart takes a quarter of an hour. Pretty 
 cottages are dotted about, nestling upon islands in little fiords. 
 Endless bathing places are built out into the water at the end of 
 narrow wooden jetties. 
 
 At Middlefart the train resumes the track over Funen, a well- 
 cultivated island, the hedges of Canadian poplar valuable as a 
 protection from sweeping winds when the crops are on the ground. 
 
 69
 
 70 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1S87 
 
 Half-way across Funen is the town of Odensee (Odin's Lake), to 
 which it is said Canute brought relics of St. Alban of England, and 
 deposited them in the church of that place. I believe the church is 
 dedicated to St. Alban, but am not sure. Over the major part of 
 his bones we must hope that the ancient and stately abbey church 
 of St. Alban watches, where certainly the "remains of his remains " 
 have been provided with a goodly shrine. Thence to Nyborg, 
 where the train is again left, and the same process repeated as at 
 Fredericia, only upon a larger ferry by reason of the half-hour and 
 more open crossing of the Great Belt. This is the deepest channel 
 into the Baltic, and that by which our fleet passed to the Gulfs of 
 Bothnia and Finland during the Crimean War. At Corsoe the 
 steam ferry is left again, and the passengers who have come direct 
 by sea from Kiel meet those via Fredericia, and complete the 
 journey by rail of some four or five hours to the capital. 
 
 At Copenhagen I was the guest of Sir Edmund and Lady Monson 
 at the British Legation, commencing a friendship and a series 
 of kindest hospitalities that have extended over eighteen years, at 
 Brussels, Vienna, and closing, much to my regret, at Paris in 1904. 
 I had been three nights out of bed, and was not sorry to be at my 
 journey's end. However, we talked over the arrangements for the 
 consecration of St. Alban's Church, built by the exertions of the 
 Prince and Princess of Wales. 
 
 At noon on 1 7 September I drove with Sir Edmund Monson to 
 the new church, which is beautifully situated amongst trees and 
 well-kept grass, close to the waters of the harbour and upon the 
 edge of a little inlet of the Sound. It is a perfect model of an Eng- 
 lish church ; the architect Sir A. Blomfield. An enormous crowd 
 had gathered to see the royalties and the pageant ; quite a second 
 jubilee from which, in Westminster Abbey, I had recently come. 
 Bluejackets in their pretty summer dress from the Osbortie in the 
 harbour lining the nave on either side. 
 
 I stood with Sir Edmund and the Legation staff in the church 
 entry, where we received the carriages filled with royal personages 
 as they drove up. The Danish National Anthem was played as the 
 royal and imperial party entered the church. When all were seated, 
 the processional hymn, followed by the service, began. The 
 following is a full account by a special correspondent at Copen- 
 hagen. 
 
 " Among the English chaplaincies in Europe many date back for
 
 1887] CONSECRATION OF ST. ALBAN'S CHURCH 7, 
 
 two or three hundred years, and some even further, possessing 
 special interest from their historical associations. Commerce, 
 pleasure, climate, and other causes have brought together a con- 
 siderable number of substantial English communities, scattered 
 throughout the Continent. By an inherited religious instinct our 
 people take their National Church with them, and so we find dotted 
 here and there in these foreign lands, English churches, wherein 
 these little colonies can meet together for worship in their own 
 tongue, and after the manner of their forefathers. 
 
 "In Scandinavia English Christianity had in the early ages a 
 potent influence. At the present time there are four communities, 
 wherein churches have sprung up representing the Catholicism of 
 the National Church of England, Stockholm, G6teborg, Christiama 
 and Copenhagen, round which traditions of the past cluster. 
 In the year 1853 a committee was formed for gathering funds to 
 build an English church. In 1S83 the building of the Russian 
 church gave a stimulus to the movement, inasmuch as their Royal 
 Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales were prompted to 
 co-operate and lend their powerful assistance. The British Minister, 
 the Hon. H. Vivian, now Lord Vivian, accepted the chairman- 
 ship of the Committee in Copenhagen, while the Prince of Wales 
 formed a committee in London, with Sir P. CunlilTe Owen as 
 treasurer. The Danish Government granted a picturesque site at 
 the entrance of the harbour, alongside the citadel and moat. . . 
 On 19 September, 1885, the foundation-stone was laid by their 
 Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales, in the 
 presence of a very distinguished company, consisting of their 
 Majesties the King and Queen of Denmark, their Imperial 
 Majesties the Emperor and Empress of Russia, their Royal 
 Highnesses the Crown Prince and Princess of Denmark, etc. 
 Early in this year (1887) the top stone of the spire was placed, 
 and the event commemorated by an ecclesiastical function. The 
 design of the church is thoroughly English in all its details, the 
 style being Early English. The walls are faced externally with flint, 
 a use unknown apparently till now in Denmark. The external 
 dressings are of Faxe limestone quarried in Zeeland. The spire is 
 of a harder limestone from Sweden. The Campbell Tile Company 
 has generously floored the church, and Messrs. Doulton, of Lambeth, 
 have given the reredos, font, and pulpit. ... A stained glass 
 window in the chancel has been given by Sir Francis Cooke, Bart.,
 
 72 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 and the west window by the Hon. Sir Edmund Monson, Her 
 Majesty's Minister ; Sir K. Adderly has given the oak chancel seats 
 and fittings. . . . 
 
 " The consecration took place on Saturday, 1 7 September, 
 beginning with an early celebration at 8.30 a.m. At noon the 
 consecration service was conducted by the Right Rev. Bishop 
 Wilkinson, of Northern and Central Europe, when the following 
 distinguished company was present : their Royal Highnesses the 
 Prince and Princess of Wales, their Majesties the King and 
 Queen of Denmark, the Emperor and Empress of Russia, the 
 King and Queen of Greece, the Crown Prince and Princess of 
 Denmark, Princess Marie of Denmark, Prince Albert Victor, 
 and the Princesses Victoria and Maud of Wales, their High- 
 nesses Prince William and John of Gliicksburg, and other 
 members of the Royal and Imperial Families of Denmark, Greece, 
 and Russia. The Danish Ministers, the Corps Diplomatique, 
 the naval, military, municipal, and ecclesiastical representatives 
 were also invited to attend, as were also the Russian, Greek, and 
 Romish priests in Copenhagen. The Venerable Bishop of Zeeland, 
 in his black velvet robes and white, wide, starched ruff, a beautiful 
 old man, was conspicuous among the ecclesiastics. The church 
 was packed from end to end, and the scene brilliant and striking 
 with the many diverse and gorgeous uniforms. The choir in 
 cassocks and surplices were ranged on each side of the sacrarium ; 
 while the royal party occupied the choir stalls. The Bishop 
 preached a most appropriate and thoughtful sermon, which was 
 thoroughly appreciated and attentively listened to by the dis- 
 tinguished congregation. After the recessional hymn, ' God save 
 the Queen ' was played, and the royal party left the church. Their 
 Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales gave a 
 luncheon on board the Osborne to a distinguished company, 
 consisting of the Royal and Imperial visitors who were present 
 in the church, the members of the Legation, the Bishop and 
 chaplain, the consul, the architect, Mr. Blomfield, etc, 
 
 " In the afternoon the Bishop confirmed, and preached on 
 Sunday. Their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of 
 Wales, Prince Albert Victor, and the Princesses Victoria and 
 Maud being present. The Bishop preached upon the subject 
 of Abraham going forth into Canaan, and building an altar 
 there. His discourse was most appropriate and the remarks
 
 '887] ON BOARD THE OSBORNE 73 
 
 most suitable to the circumstances of our English comrnuniiics 
 abroad. The music and singing were particularly good at all 
 the services, and would have done credit to a well-trained choir 
 in England. After the service their Royal Highnesses lunched 
 at the British Legation, the Bishop and chaplain, the Consul and 
 others being included in the party. At the conclusion of the 
 luncheon the British residents assembled at the Legation, where an 
 address was presented to their Royal Highnesses as a mark of grati- 
 tude for their sympathy and help in bringing the undertaking to a 
 successful issue. ... 
 
 "In the evening a grand banquet was given in the hall of 
 Fredensborg Castle, at which the whole Court with the royal and 
 imperial visitors were present. The members of the Ikitish Legation, 
 together with the Bishop, chaplain, and Consul had the honour of 
 being invited." 
 
 Such is the account given by the correspondent. 
 
 I will now take up my own narrative, and briefly give my own 
 description of what was a most interesting and historical event, cast 
 with other details into another form. At the close of the consecra- 
 tion service salutes were fired by the royal yachts and warships in 
 the harbour. I went with the Ambassador and Lady Monson, the 
 Legation staff, the chaplain, etc., to the landing stage, which was 
 packed with royal steam and rowing launches. In these we were 
 taken off to the Osborne through the gaily decorated ships in the 
 harbour, and were received at the top of the gangway by the Prince 
 of Wales, who most heartily welcomed us on board. He began 
 to speak immediately with great delight of the service, and was 
 evidently much pleased and in high spirits. He had told Sir E. 
 Monson that all was admirably done. Turning to me, the Prince 
 said that the service had gone exceedingly well, and was kind enough 
 to add that my sermon was "just to the point, and full of the 
 history touching upon the occasion." I told him that I was glad 
 all had gone off to his satisfaction, adding that we had kept to the 
 form — as he had desired — used at the consecration of the Duke of 
 Albany's memorial church at Cannes. I asked after the Crown 
 Prince and Princess of Germany, and of his health. He told me 
 that he was unable to shake off the trouble in the throat, that it 
 continued to reappear, and that he was going to Toblach, in the 
 Tyrol, for change of air. He then took me up to the King and 
 Queen of Denmark, and presented me to them. They spoke
 
 74 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1S87 
 
 warmly of the beauty of the EngHsh Church service, and said how 
 much they liked it. The Queen told me she was no stranger to 
 our service. In her youth she was in the habit of attending it at 
 Hanover, and had never forgotten it. She then spoke of the im- 
 proved health of her daughter, the Duchess of Cumberland, from 
 whom she had heard that morning. As we stood talking the 
 Empress of Russia came up. She was much interested to find 
 that I knew Russia. We talked of their recent visit to Novo 
 Cherkask, in the Don Cossack country, and of Hughesoffky and 
 its population of English. We also talked of Petersburg and of 
 the sinking of the Isaac Cathedral. 
 
 Whilst we were talking the Prince of Wales came back, bringing 
 the Princess. We spoke of the church architecture. I said that I 
 liked the flint because it reminded me of our Suffolk churches. 
 The Princess thought a flint church was unique upon the Continent. 
 The Prince of Wales now called us to lunch from one of the 
 saloon windows, and we went in ; the Czar with the Princess of 
 Wales, the Prince of Wales with the Queen of Denmark. They 
 sat at the centre of the table, opposite one another, the King and 
 Queen of Greece, and the other royalties, Crown Princes and 
 Princesses, on either side. All were in uniform and very re- 
 splendent with orders. The younger Princes and Princesses lunched 
 in the other saloon. The Prince of Wales said he had never had 
 so large a party as that assembled in our saloon. He certainly 
 could never have had one more distinguished. 
 
 Whilst we were at lunch the band played on deck. Towards 
 the close of the luncheon the health of the Queen of England was 
 proposed by the King of Denmark, in English. We all stood uj) 
 and drank it loyally, while the band played a few bars of "God 
 Save the Queen." Then the health of the King and Queen of 
 Denmark was proposed by the Czar, in French. We all stood up 
 and bowed towards them, the band playing a few bars of the 
 Danish National Anthem. Then the health of the Czar and 
 Czarina was proposed in French by the Prince of Wales. We all 
 stood up and bowed to them whilst the band played a few bars of 
 the Russian National Anthem. Then the health of the King and 
 Queen of Greece was proposed in French by the Prince of Wales. 
 We all stood up and bowed to them whilst the band played a few 
 bars of the Greek National Anthem. Then the Czar proposed the 
 health of the Prince and Princesse de Galle, and again all rose and
 
 iS87] CONVERSATION WITH THE CZAR 73 
 
 bowed to them while the band played a few bars of " Cod bless the 
 Prince of Wales." Meanwhile many languages had been buzijing 
 about the saloon — French, German, Danish, Swedish, English. 
 
 At the conclusion of the lunch we all went out on deck, stood 
 about, and talked. The Prince of Wales came up almost im- 
 mediately, and talked about Norfolk. He told me that he had just 
 restored his churches at Sandringham, Wolferton, and Hillingdon, 
 and that in each case he had employed Blomfield, whom he con 
 sidered the best architect we had. Referring again to the service, 
 he spoke of it as having been entirely as he had wished, and lliat 
 upon such occasions as the present we ought to do things well. I 
 said I thought it was right to show foreign nations what our services 
 were in their full dignity and beauty. In this he (juite agreed, 
 expressing his satisfaction at my having worn the scarlet convocation 
 robes, it being right to make an exception upon a special occasion 
 such as this. He asked if I had been at Weimar lately, because 
 the Grand Duke would like an English church there. I said I was 
 aware of it, and hoped to be there this autumn, and would then 
 arrange something with him. We spoke of continental churches 
 and chaplains generally, of the Berlin and Lausanne churches, and 
 of the new church then being built in Paris, which I said seemed 
 somewhat peculiar in design. The Prince told me that he was 
 asked to go to the stone-laying, but was unable to do so ; that the 
 present plan was better than the first, which was circular, and like 
 the Pantheon at Rome ! I told the Prince that we wanted to get a 
 better stamp of chaplains, churches, and services throughout the 
 Continent, and that we should do it in time. He asked how far 
 my continental work extended, and when he found that it embraced 
 Russia, which I had lately visited, he expressed his astonishment, 
 and said he must present me to the Czar, who was standing near. 
 The Emperor shook hands very genially. " Here is our bishop," 
 said the Prince ; *' he goes to Russia, and has been telling me of a 
 confirmation at Petersburg where he confirmed more than a hundred 
 English candidates." The Czar asked how many English there were 
 in Petersburg. I told him 2500, including Cronstadt. He said he 
 had no idea there were so many. I spoke to him of the glorious 
 service which I had attended in the Isaac Cathedral. Inquiring 
 what service I referred to, I replied it was the thanksgiving service 
 for His Majesty's accession. Upon this, he turned the subject, for 
 it was the occasion of the discovered plot upon his life already
 
 76 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 referred to. I told the Prince of Wales that a member of the 
 Holy Synod, hearing that an English bishop was in Petersburg, had 
 arranged for my being present at this great service, and had placed 
 me within the altar rails. He seemed very pleased, and said, " I 
 am very glad to hear that ; it is well to be in such relations with 
 other churches. When Dean Stanley went up to Petersburg to 
 marry my brother, he concluded the service by raising both his 
 hands, as the orthodox priests, and pronouncing the Benediction, 
 and," he added, laughing, " he gave great satisfaction, too, by kissing 
 them all round." 
 
 The Princess of Wales then came across and introduced me to 
 the Queen of Greece. The Queen of Greece is a most intellectual 
 woman, and very full of inquiry. She catechized me very closely 
 upon our Church, her doctrines, formularies, etc. She did not ask 
 superficial and complimentary questions as many such persons do, 
 but evidently took a real interest in the subject. She said it was 
 so gratifying to hear the " Te Deum," not knowing that it formed 
 part of our services. I said that we used it at every morning 
 service. She asked me if I were High or Low Church, adding, " And 
 you have another school of thought in your Church, have you not? " 
 She inquired very closely as to my views upon Transubstantiation, 
 and if all English clergy held that view. The Princess of Wales, 
 who had gone to speak with some one else during this conversation 
 with the Queen of Greece, now returned, bringing her sister, the 
 Empress of Russia. We talked of Russia, and of my having con- 
 firmed at Petersburg three generations in one family, and an English 
 boy who had come all the way from near the Sea of Azof. I told 
 the Queen of Greece, who was standing by, that great traveller as I 
 had been, I had never visited her kingdom. She said that I ought 
 to see Greece ; it was a country so full of interest. The Crown 
 Princess of Denmark coming up, the Princess of Wales introduced 
 me to her. She is the only child of the late King Charles XV of 
 Sweden. I told her that I remembered seeing her at the coronation 
 of the late King, her father, at Stockholm, in 1859. She said she 
 must have been a very little girl then, and I told her that she was, 
 but that I remembered her sitting between the late King and Queen 
 upon a dais in the park at a review. We talked of Sweden and of 
 Stockholm, and all its beautiful neighbourhood. 
 
 The young and handsome Grand Duke George in naval dress was 
 looking so strong and well upon this occasion, showing no sign of
 
 i887] SUNDAY MORNING SERVICE 77 
 
 the fatal consumption into which he soon after fell. The party 
 began to break up. The Czar was collecting his boys and girls and 
 came up with the Empress to say good-ljye ; and so the Russians 
 passed down the gangway to their launch, everybody uncovering as 
 they went, the ships in the harbour thundering a salute as the 
 Imperial party returned to the Dirjava, their large and beautiful 
 yacht moored at a little distance from their smaller yacht the 
 Czarevna. Then others began to move, and I went to the Prince 
 of Wales and told him that I had a confirmation at half-past four, 
 and the time was getting near. He kindly called a launch, saying, 
 as I left the yacht, that we should meet next day at dinner at 
 Fredensborg. So ended a delightful and remarkable day, what I 
 have called an historic day, for the great Copenhagen autumn 
 gatherings, so famous in European history, have, like all other 
 things, come to an end, and Copenhagen knows them no more, 
 or only upon a very reduced scale. 
 
 The Sunday morning service was attended by the Prince and 
 Princess of Wales, Prince Albert Victor, and the two Princesses. 
 I preached from the first special lesson, Abraham going forth from 
 his own country to Canaan, building his altars wherever he stayed, 
 carrying — that is — his church and worship with him, as the English 
 do in all lands and regions wherever they settle. After service a 
 State luncheon party at the Embassy, Prince and Princess and 
 family. I sat next Princess Victoria, opposite sat Prince Albert 
 Victor, the Prince of Wales nearly opposite. Princess Victoria 
 told me that the Sound was frozen over a few years ago, adding, 
 that her mother walked over to Sweden upon the ice, but that it 
 was " a terribly rough walk." We talked of many parts of Europe 
 which she knew. Upon going into the drawing-room, the Prince 
 and Princess asked about the confirmation of the previous day, 
 hoping I had been in good time, and referring again with evident 
 pleasure and satisfaction to the consecration service. The Prince 
 asked where I was going upon leaving Copenhagen. I told him to 
 Gothenburg and Christiania, and upon asking if he knew the best 
 route, he called and consulted General Teesdale to whom he 
 referred as his " Bradshaw, knowing every route in Europe." The 
 address of the English residents was then presented, and shortly 
 after the Prince and Princess left, saying as they wished good-bye : 
 " We meet again to-night at Fredensborg." 
 
 In the afternoon I went out with Sir Edmund and Lady Monson
 
 78 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 to Fredensborg ; the Royal and Imperial Families going round in 
 their yachts to a little private landing-place near Elsinore, whence 
 they drove to Fredensborg. We found the royal carriages waiting 
 for us at Fredensborg station, and drove to the castle. In about 
 a quarter of an hour a carriage and four drove up containing the 
 Czar, Czarina, and their family. Then two breaks and four, con- 
 taining our Royal Family, and all the young Princes and Princesses, 
 English and foreign. Fredensborg is a dear old place, very Danish, 
 quiet and restful among its peaceful woods, through which peeps of 
 the water are seen in all directions. The main building is 
 flanked by two long semicircular wings, giving endless passages and 
 corridors. It was a quiet beautiful autumn evening, such as can 
 only be experienced in the far north of Europe. Some of our 
 party wandered about the grounds ; but it soon grew dark. Then 
 the old building began to glow till it was all ablaze with lights in 
 every room. We had each a little sitting and bedroom to our- 
 selves, where we dressed and rested till dinner was announced. 
 Mine were on the ground floor, looking out into the old courtyard, 
 in which the only sound was the pacing of the sentries up and 
 down, for when the Czar was at Copenhagen unusual care was 
 taken ; boats of detectives passing round guarded the Imperial yacht 
 all night. 
 
 At seven o'clock we assembled in the great drawing-room, where 
 a brilliant gathering in uniforms and orders were awaiting the 
 royalties. Presently from the upper end of the room the handsome 
 old King and Queen of Denmark, pictures of old royalty of the 
 best type, entered, bowing to right and left as they came along 
 between the lines of guests. They were followed by the Czar and 
 Czarina, she glittering from head to foot with diamonds and looking 
 her best. Then came the King and Queen of Greece, Prince and 
 Princess of Wales, and then, bringing up the rear, a bevy of young 
 princes and princesses, some twenty-five or more in number. The 
 King and Queen came over to me, and said, " Welcome to Fredens- 
 borg. You find Copenhagen much changed since you saw it last," 
 and making a few other little kindly remarks, we all passed into 
 the great dining-hall. Then followed a long but very pleasant 
 dinner. Wine of 1625 vintage! This wine is of extraordinary 
 value. It needs sugar, being somewhat overdue ! 
 
 After dinner we returned to the great drawing-room in which we 
 had assembled. The Crown Prince of Denmark, whom I had not
 
 i887] AN HISTORICAL GATHERING 79 
 
 seen since the luncheon party on board the Os/>orne, came and 
 thanked me for speaking in my sermon so kindly of the Danes and 
 Denmark. He told mc that he had been at Christ (Church, Oxford, 
 and introduced me to his son, a nice honest-looking boy of nineteen, 
 and very tall, " taller than I am," as his father said. I told him that 
 he would make a fine guardsman one day, at which he drew himself 
 up to make himself look still taller. Then came the Princess of 
 Wales with her ever pleasant, cheerful smile. " And what do you 
 think of ]'>edensborg ? " she asked. I said it was a dear old place a 
 place quite after my own heart. She asked if I had seen the 
 gardens ; adding that she was sorry they had been so late from 
 Copenhagen by the yacht ; that I must manage to see it all, and the 
 fiord, as it was so beautiful. She spoke eagerly, evidently loving it 
 with all her heart as the home of her childhood. I said that in 
 crossing the Danish islands I had been struck with the quaint little 
 bathing-places built out on to the water. She spoke of the quiet 
 beauty of the little farms and villages by the waterside as being so 
 very Danish. The Queen of Denmark joined us and began to 
 speak also of the beauties of Fredensborg, which is evidently the 
 favourite of all the royal residences. The King and Queen of 
 Greece now joined the group. They referred to my having told 
 them that I had never seen Greece because it lay out of the sphere 
 of my work. They both said with etnpressement^ "You must come 
 to Greece ; you ought to see it." To complete my group of 
 royalties, the Empress of Russia now joined us with her kindly 
 but sad smile, and I had enough to do to keep conversation 
 going with a King, an Empress, two Queens, and a Princess of 
 Wales around me. The Czar was now passing down the room, 
 and seeing me came across, asking when I was leaving Copenhagen, 
 and where I was going. I told him to Stockholm ; that I had been 
 there before, and knew Finland also. We talked of Helsingfors 
 and the Aland Islands, of Viborg and Abo. About all these places 
 he spoke with interest, being in his own dominions. Beneath the 
 stern frown of the Romanoff there was, one could see, a great and 
 kindly heart. 
 
 The evening was now drawing on, and Sir Edmund Monson 
 came and said that we had not a moment to lose if we wished to 
 catch the train back to Copenhagen. So wishing good-bye all 
 round, with many kindly expressions from each, this delightful and 
 really remarkable evening came to an end.
 
 So CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 I have gone so fully into all the details, particulars, and conversa- 
 tions of these two remarkable days because that particular party, 
 I believe, never assembled again at Copenhagen in its entirety. 
 One by one they have passed away, and circumstances have so 
 altered that those historical " family gatherings at Copenhagen " have 
 now practically, with the good King and Queen of Denmark's death, 
 ceased to exist. I am thankful to have been permitted to see and 
 take part in one of the most numerously attended and brilliant of all 
 those gatherings. 
 
 The next day I left Copenhagen by sea, touching at Landscrona 
 in Sweden, a very dreary little place. A good many ships were 
 passing through the Sound, and made a very picturesque appear- 
 ance. We touched at Helsingborg, situated at the narrowest point 
 of the Sound, opposite Elsinore, with the castle of Kronberg in the 
 foreground, the scene of the opening of Hamlet. After leaving 
 Helsingborg a storm— upon this ever-stormy sea — broke upon us with 
 some violence, and we had a bad time of it till, at dark, we made 
 and ran into Halmstadt, on one of the best salmon rivers in 
 Sweden. From Halmstadt we steamed to Warberg, with its old 
 disused fort, a lonely spot, but characteristic of the dreariness of the 
 Cattegat, which is always more or less " the unquiet sea that cannot 
 rest." The coast now becomes very bleak and bare, wild rounded 
 granite rocks and barren islands in all directions, dotted here and 
 there with red-stained wooden huts, the granite ground down through 
 endless ages of glacial action. At about midday we entered the line 
 of rocks which forms the mouth of the Gotha River. At the entrance 
 stands the castle of Elfborg in mid-channel, then shortly Goteborg, 
 or Gothenburg as we call it, breaks into view, the rounded rocks 
 closing in, and more and more thickly studded with red houses 
 opening up and looking out at every turn. After thirty-two hours in 
 the Cattegat I was taken out to dine in the neighbourhood of Gote- 
 borg. The next day I had a confirmation, the community consisting 
 mostly of Scotch merchants, some of whom have married Swedish 
 wives. In 1859, with my old friend H. A. Morgan, now Master of 
 Jesus College, Cambridge, I had visited Sweden, and made the 
 acquaintance of the delightful old ladies, the Miss Nonnens, his 
 aunts, at their pretty place Liseberg, then quite otiiside the town 
 and surrounded by primeval forest, now quite inside Goteborg. It 
 was very pleasant to renew my acquaintance. 
 
 The hospital at Goteborg is built in semicircular form in order
 
 iS87] GOTEBORG LICENSING SYSTEM lu 
 
 that as much sun as possible may be obtained for the wards, Sweden 
 being for many dark months a very sunless region. Goteborg had 
 much changed since I was there in 1859. The small wooden 
 houses had given place to fine, large, stone structures. The surname 
 Wijk is not uncommon in Scandinavia. It means, of course, a 
 haven, our wick or harbour. Wijk king was the king or head 
 man of the harbour, and Wijkingson, the son of the head of the 
 harbour, hence Wilkinson, which is spelt in Scandinavia, Wijkingson. 
 What is known as the Gothenburg licensing system, adopted now 
 very generally throughout Sweden, and introduced in a measure 
 in other countries, is as follows. A corporate body under Govern- 
 ment has bought up all the public-houses and manages them. Si.x 
 per cent is taken by the corporate body ; half the remaining 
 dividends go to the reduction of taxes in the town, half to the same 
 purpose in the country. This system only regulates the sale of 
 spirits, not wine or beer ; this will follow. The system extends for 
 thirty miles round Goteborg, but all Sweden is mapped out into 
 districts under the same system. Since it came into operation 
 drunkenness, the curse of Scandinavia, has much diminished. The 
 first profits of the corporation were used in laying out the beautiful 
 new park at Goteborg. The key of the Gothenburg system is that 
 the company is bound by law to a 6 per cent dividend. It appoints 
 managers of its various public-houses, who are paid by salary, and 
 have no ijiterest ivhatever, direct or indirect, in the sales they effect. 
 Serving an intoxicated man would mean dismissal. The managers 
 all have restaurants in connexion with their business as part of the 
 plan. From these they derive all the profits, the company none. 
 It is thus to a manager's advantage to press his restaurant, not his 
 drink traffic. These restaurants are of all classes ; in some a dinner 
 of fish and potatoes can be had for 2d. Spirits to be consumed off 
 the premises are sold in separate establishments in quantities — not 
 less than three half-pints can be bought. This prevents " nipping." 
 Wine merchants, hotels, theatres, etc., all have to buy licences from 
 the company, and are under the company's control. The Goteborg 
 district extends about twenty miles seawards and landwards. Outside 
 the town no spirits can be bought until the next large town is met 
 with. The profits above 6 per cent are divided thus : {a) A certain 
 pro rata share to the imperial revenue; (/') the balance divided 
 between (i) local town exchequers ; (ii) rural authorities for the 
 district covered by the system. Thus the district pays directly to 
 prisons, workhouses, etc. 
 
 G
 
 82 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 Mr. Sauers, a Scotch merchant, with whom I dined when in 
 Goteborg, has the finest amateur collection of china probably in 
 Europe. Each course was served up on a different and costly set. 
 When the late King and Queen of Sweden died, their only 
 daughter, whom I met as stated at Fredensborg, sold their china, 
 and Mr. Sauers bought much of it. He has specimens of almost 
 all the royal collections in Europe. He gave me a piece of Vienna 
 china, which is rare now, the Royal Fabrik at which it was made 
 being closed after the Austria-Prussia War. 
 
 On 23 September, upon a lovely autumn morning— and there are 
 no lovelier autumn days in all the round world than Scandinavia 
 can give : so mellow, soft, silent, peaceful — I left by train for Stock- 
 holm. There is no more comfortable travelling in Europe than that 
 in Scandinavia. The corridor express trains are excellent, roomy, 
 clean, and well upholstered. Time-tables are hung in each com- 
 partment, buffet stations being marked with a knife and fork. At a 
 station so marked you are sure of a good breakfast, midday dinner, 
 and supper, but only twenty-five minutes to eat them. The buffets 
 are supplied most generously with endless schnapps to begin with, 
 then soups, meats, stews, game, hot and cold vegetables, sweets, 
 stewed fruits and cream, cheese and biscuits, concluding with 
 coffee— all this for one kroner, fifty ore, about is. 7^d, and it is left 
 to the honesty of each traveller to go to the bureau in the buffet 
 and make this payment, as well as for any cakes he may have had. 
 Twenty-five minutes is given in which to consume the largest meal 
 that human nature can possibly accomplish. 
 
 A succession of pretty lakes, with trees rich in autumnal foliage 
 and endless stretches of granite rock and fir forest, form the unvary- 
 ing features of a journey in Sweden. It is monotonous. Flood, 
 forest, felz— these three f's, and nothing else! Little red and 
 yellow wooden cottages and farms, just now surrounded with 
 hay-making — not hay-makers, but hay-drying — upon long wooden 
 racks, without which it would in this wet, sunless region never dry 
 at all. About midday we were between the two largest lakes in 
 Europe — the Wenern and the Wettern— and the air blew cold. We 
 crossed the Gotha Canal at Torreboda, catching further on a far 
 glimpse of Lake Wenern, its waters of deepest and most lustrous 
 indigo. The Wenern is about ninety miles long, the largest inland 
 European water. Passing through fifty miles of forest at a stretch, 
 coming close up to the carriage window, is not only monotonous but
 
 • 887] THE VENICE OF THE NORTH 8^ 
 
 makes the traveller giddy to look upon ; he consequently tries to go 
 to sleep till the view opens out again. When it does the little peeps 
 are sometimes very pretty. The roofs of the many small wooden 
 houses are covered with earth, upon which a brilliantly green moss 
 springs up : the contrast of the bright red and emerald green in the 
 slanting autumn sunlight is most exquisite. The sunsets at this 
 season are superb. I have referred to the excellent meals tliese 
 Swedes provide for their travellers. Here is one supplied upon this 
 journey : salmon, hot veal and cranberries, sponge cake and jam, 
 milk and prunes, stewed pears and coflce. What a contrast to our 
 wretchedly supplied '* refreshment-rooms " so called ! Upon enterin" 
 the buffet passengers rush at dishes upon tables in the middle of the 
 room, help themselves, and carry their plates to side tables, there to 
 consume their contents like vultures. Few birds are to be seen 
 except grey crows, as in Russia. Unlike our own, the crows are 
 white and the sheep black. The Great Bear as the night comes down 
 upon us is nearly over our heads. About lo p.m. we passed the 
 tunnel which, as a boy, I saw making in 1859, and gliding under 
 lofty Mosenbacke entered the Venice of the North, over a succession 
 of islands compassed with water — unlike the southern Venice — clear 
 as liquid ice, and glittering beneath electric lights which flash above, 
 below, around, everywhere. 
 
 The weather turned cold and wet, and I could not go out to 
 Drotningholm, as I had intended, to pay my respects at the palace. 
 Mr. Corbet, of the British Legation, was away, but I called and sat 
 some time with his secretary, the master of Napier. A totally 
 different stamp of houses has within the last quarter of a century 
 taken the place of the small, coloured, wooden houses of former days. 
 The island quarter of the city is now built over with fine stone 
 houses, public gardens well laid out and kept, interspersed with 
 statues and fountains. The rough woodland scrub, where I saw the 
 late King review his troops, is now a trim park, with a library and 
 museum in its centre. Where the old wooden quays stood, opposite 
 the palace, stands now the Grand Hotel, the Picture Gallery, and 
 other buildings. The city has grown out to the edge of the primeval 
 woods, and it is strange to see fine rows of houses, equal to those in 
 Berlin, running up to, and suddenly terminating at, the uncleared 
 forest ; this latter will be gradually eaten into as required for build- 
 ing purposes. In two minutes you may pass from the doors of 
 these mansions to the depths of solitary rocks and pine woods
 
 84 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 carpeted with cranberries, bilberries, and moss ; the progress is quite 
 colonial. 
 
 Sleet began to fall, and the northern winter was not far off. Our 
 Consul, Mr. Drummond Hay, informed me that the best route from 
 Stockholm to Trondhjem was by steamer to Hernosand, thence by 
 river as far up as the Hernosand River goes, and from that point by 
 rail through wild scenery to Trondhjem, thirty hours altogether. 
 
 At Stockholm we have a good Gothic church, in which I preached 
 and confirmed. The sittings are carpeted with reindeer skins, 
 which look warm and snug this winterly weather. The church was 
 crowded, many standing at the west end for two hours. These 
 Swedes have strange notions of Church matters. The chaplain told 
 me that on Monday morning a man came to him and asked if 
 I would preach to an audience through an interpreter. If so, he 
 would hire a hall for the purpose, and we could divide the profits ! 
 Swedes and Danes when they get tired of sitting in church stand up. 
 This has the appearance when preaching of an opposition speaker 
 desirous of being heard. I have no doubt it is a great relief in 
 some cases, for the Swedish clergy preach not infrequently for two 
 hours. It is usual amongst the Swedes to have an address at a 
 funeral. Our chaplain had recently buried a Swede. The brother 
 of the deceased at the end of the service stepped to the graveside 
 and made a touching oration, concluding with the words: "Ferdi- 
 nand, my brother, farewell, but only for a time, till we meet again." 
 Quite Japanese. 
 
 The current from the Malar Lake runs through Stockholm to the 
 Baltic. One day we observed it flowing from the Baltic into the 
 Malar, a very rare sight indeed, for the Baltic, of course, is tideless. 
 This occurs during a prevalence of east winds, which press the 
 waters of the Baltic through the islands upon which Stockholm is 
 built into the Malar. This phenomenon rarely lasts more than a 
 few hours. Scandinavia is said to be rising two feet per century ; 
 as it rises these endless lakes and morasses will drain away from its 
 surface. 
 
 From Stockholm I returned south to Malmo on the Sound, whence 
 I crossed again into the kingdom of a thousand islands to Ham- 
 burg. Sir Gilbert Scott's great church here, which I saw building 
 twenty-eight years ago, is very fine. It was the first, and he con- 
 sidered it the best, of all his works. The height inside is very 
 striking, as are also the lancet windows, reaching from the top to
 
 »887] HAMBURG 85 
 
 almost the bottom of the building. Madame Titiens has filled one 
 with glass of beautiful quality, and a Hamburg merchant has spent 
 ;^iooo upon a mother-of-pearl door, leading into the chapter house. 
 The Alster Basin is the great feature of Hamburg, an expanse of 
 many acres of water in the midst of the city with houses, villas, and 
 gardens around it. 
 
 In Schleswig-Holstein the people do not measure distance by 
 miles as we do, or by hours as in Germany ; they say such a place is 
 two pipes off, that is, they can smoke two pipes on the way ; or if a 
 short distance, "Zwei oder drei hunds blaef." Anskar's statue stands 
 upon the bridge in Hamburg. He was the Apostle of the Danes. 
 This city, with other Hans towns, was to enter the German 
 ZoUverein the following year. Neither Hamburg nor Altona at all 
 approved the change, as their free importations would, of course, 
 then be taxed as in other towns. What was called the " Franco- 
 German frontier incident " was then creating much interest in 
 Hamburg, and war preparations on both sides were the forward 
 topic. But as the Edinburgh Revieiv well put it, " France is not doing 
 all that she is talking about, and Germany is not talking about all 
 that she is doing." At Hamburg we have a well-intentioned church, 
 like the old cathedral at Capetown in miniature. It must have cost 
 much, but is hopelessly ugly. The gallery of modern paintings, 
 given by Herr Schwabe, a Hamburg merchant, who made his 
 fortune in London, and bought up year by year many Royal 
 Academy pictures, is well worth a visit. 
 
 The Germans upon the railway are much exercised about sections 
 of my pastoral staff. They evidently think it is a new kind of needle- 
 gun ; no less than four congregated around it at one station, discuss- 
 ing its properties with much gesticulation. When the Danes saw it 
 in Denmark the more peaceful spirit of the nation asserted itself. 
 1 heard them say, " He is a fisherman." 
 
 From Hamburg I travelled direct to Rotterdam, crossing to 
 Parkeston quay by the Harwich boat. I reached England on a 
 Saturday, having only had my clothes off once since Sunday night.
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 Berlin mourns the Crown Prince's illness — The old Kaiser waves his last fare- 
 well to his beloved soldiers — High and dry on the banks of the Maes — The 
 North Sea fishing fleet leaving Dunkirk — "Je ne le comprend pas, mais 
 c'est tres gentil " — Lord Lytton at the Paris Embassy — Sir Richard Wallace 
 — St. George's English church at Paris — A rough crossing — Charlemagne's 
 tomb at Aachen — Consecration of church at Cassel — "The English Bishop 
 knows more about the history of our country than we do " — The beautiful 
 prison of the Emperor Napoleon — Third annual conference of chaplains at 
 Montreux — Pere Hyacinthe— A Sunday in Nature's temple. 
 
 TOWARDS the end of this much-travelled and eventful year I 
 left England again, on 21 November, for work in Holland 
 and North Germany. At Amsterdam we have a chaplain and a 
 chapel for converted Jews, in which I confirmed, Amsterdam being 
 one of the largest and most important Jewish centres in Europe. 
 The service was in Dutch. Mr. Adler, the chaplain, interpreted my 
 charge, and in the laying on of hands I used the Dutch language. 
 This I was afterwards told greatly pleased the large congregation. 
 They sit to sing, but all was very hearty and reverent, a remarkable 
 service. My next point on this journey was Hanover, where I con- 
 firmed. After service I walked up to the Palace of Herrenhausen 
 and looked at the pictures, many portraits of our English kings and 
 princes. The Duke of Cumberland has not been allowed to live 
 here since the kingdom of Hanover was absorbed in the German 
 Empire. 
 
 Upon arrival in Berlin no kindly messages as formerly from the 
 Crown Princess to greet me and invite me to the palace, she and 
 the Crown Prince being at San Remo. A great gloom overhung the 
 city on account of the Crown Prince's critical state of health. 
 After a confirmation and large reception I called at the Empress 
 Augusta's palace, but Her Majesty had not yet returned from 
 Coblenz. On Advent Sunday I preached at St. George's Church, 
 both the English and American ambassadors being present with their 
 
 86
 
 1887] THE CROWN PRINCE'S ILLNESS 87 
 
 staff. A son of Count Bernstorff in uniform and iiumy (Jcrniatis 
 amongst the congregation, also a daughter of Count Schouvaloff, 
 the Russian Ambassador. She always attends the English church. 
 I preached upon the Crown Prince's illness, taking for my subject 
 the sick son of the Capernaum nobleman. I was asked upon this 
 occasion to go and see the old Kaiser William, but I declined upon 
 the plea that he was in sorrow on account of his son's illness, and I 
 would not intrude upon it. I contented myself with strolling up 
 the Unter den Linden as far as his palace, and seeing him at the 
 historic window wave his salute to the guard as it marched past. 
 The crowd assembled to see him was unusually large, to express 
 their sympathy with him in his trouble. He waved his hand several 
 times, and then retired. In less than three months he was gone. 
 In the evening I went out to Schonweide to attend a meeting upon 
 the subject of providing the English there, and at Rummelsljurg, 
 with a chaplain, but they appeared to me to be dissenters, and not 
 to want me. Little came of the effort I made for them. The 
 Crown Princess kindly wrote to me on 25 November reporting well 
 of the Crown Prince, and expressing herself as very grateful for offer- 
 ing to use prayers for him in our churches in Germany, but thinking 
 it better not to do so, as it might alarm the public. She wrote from 
 Villa Zirio, San Remo, thanking me for my sympathy with her in 
 her " great trouble." 
 
 I had suggested the use of a prayer in our churches in Germany 
 on behalf of the Crown Prince. She thought the draft of it whicli 
 I sent " most fit and appropriate," and earnestly trusted I should 
 not think she did not duly appreciate the feeling which prompted 
 its composition, but asked that no special prayer might be used, 
 fearing that if it were known she had authorized the use of a special 
 prayer in the English churches it would give rise to the idea that 
 " immediate danger was to be apprehended." 
 
 She asked that the prayers of the congregation for the Crown 
 Prince as for other sick people in that "for all sorts and conditions 
 of men " and in the Litany might be used, and " prays with all her 
 heart that it may please God to answer favourably the supplications 
 that are raised to Him on behalf of her beloved husband." Dined 
 with Colonel Swayne, our military attache, whose daughter I had 
 confirmed the previous Saturday. He attended Prince Wilhelm 
 (now Emperor of Germany) at the Queen's Jubilee, and is evidently 
 in favour here at Court. He showed me a massive gold snuff-
 
 88 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1887 
 
 box with Prince and Princess Wilhelm's monogram, "W.A.," in 
 diamonds and rubies. This was the Prince's Jubilee present to 
 Colonel Swayne. The Prince sent him this telegram from Potsdam 
 after the confirmation, " We congratulate you on the confirmation 
 of your daughter." 
 
 From Berlin I went to Dresden for confirmation and other work, 
 going on from there through the Thuringen chaplaincies for similar 
 work at Leipzig and Gotha, where the Grand Duke Ernest kindly 
 lent the chapel in his palace for the service, several Romans and 
 Lutherans being present. From Gotha I went to Cassel to meet 
 the Church Building Committee. We had a large gathering at the 
 Hotel du Nord to meet the English colony, and others interested 
 in the new church. 
 
 Travelling via Hanover I reached Rotterdam, and left for Har- 
 wich by the Peterbord. I had hardly turned in when I heard a 
 commotion on deck, and going up found we had broken some 
 portion of our engines, and were returning to Rotterdam, where we 
 transhipped to the Lady Tyler, delaying us six hours. We left at 
 midnight. Waking at daylight when we ought to have been at 
 Parkeston, and feeling no motion, I called the steward, and inquired 
 where we were. On the river bank and in Holland ! The ship 
 people pleaded a fog, but I knew it had been a perfectly clear 
 though dark night. The truth was that what is called " the lane " 
 had been confounded with the bank, and that to avoid collision 
 with a stranded Swedish vessel supposed to be lying at anchor they 
 had run the Lady Tyler upon low meadows, leaving nearly two- 
 thirds of her high and dry. It was now low tide. All the morning 
 we were getting out the cargo, then waited till high tide. At mid- 
 day we put on all steam, aided by tugs sent down to us from Rotter- 
 dam, but to no efifect. In ten minutes the tide turned and we 
 were once more high and dry. At 2 p.m. a passing small river 
 steamer took us off and back to Rotterdam. By this time the 
 Peterbord was repaired and we started for the third time, reaching 
 Harwich at last in safety after our double mishap. 
 
 On I March, 18S8, I crossed from Dover to Calais and travelled 
 by Dunkirk, when I stayed at Roosendal, outside the fortifications, 
 which are extensive, and have been raised since the war of 1870. 
 The country, I was told, could be flooded in the event of invasion 
 for twenty miles round, being reclaimed from the sea. This was 
 an interesting time at Dunkirk. Two hundred vessels were sailing
 
 1888] FROM CROIX TO BOULOGNE 89 
 
 for the Iceland cod fishing, fine large ships, strongly built to resist 
 the ice. The codfish is salted, brought back to Dunkirk, resalted, 
 and sent to all parts of the world. The whole place was in excite- 
 ment, the streets and harbour crowded with women in red petti- 
 coats ; flags flying by hundreds from the ships. They remain away 
 in the far north until the ice sets in in October. As the fleet 
 passed out of the harbour the men knelt down upon the decks, 
 the women and children kneeling upon the quays, and asking 
 Heaven's blessing upon one another. It was a touching scene ; and, 
 for France, noteworthy. The Sailors' Institute here is well managed. 
 I addressed the sailors at an evening entertainment after a service 
 in the church. Between Dunkirk and Lille the line passes Cassel, 
 situated upon a remarkable isolated hill, rising out of the absolutely 
 flat plain, surmounted by nine round windmills. Here was a 
 Roman camp, Castrum, hence its name. Also La Trappe, the 
 Monastery of Silence, lies upon this route. Lille is the fifth city 
 of France. Here we have a very good church, in which I con- 
 firmed and afterwards met the English colony, who are all engaged 
 in the manufactures of this the busiest commercial region of 
 France, the Departement du Nord paying one-twelfth of the revenue 
 of the nation. In those days the non-Government schools of Lille 
 were opened daily with the Lord's Prayer, the catechism being 
 taught after school hours. The crucifix (life-size) hung upon the 
 schoolroom walls. Whether Mons. Combes stopped all this I do 
 not know. The neighbouring chaplaincy of Croix is an interest- 
 ing one. Here one finds a bit of Yorkshire transplanted into 
 Flanders, being a colony of Yorkshire manufacturers who have 
 been established here for many years. One-seventh of the Austra- 
 lian wool is combed here, and made up at the neighbouring mills 
 of Roubaix. The head of the factory is a Mr. Crothers, whose 
 father-in-law, Mr. Faulkner, acts as chaplain and is the spiritual, as 
 Mr. Crothers is the temporal, father of the colony. I am told that 
 an Australian flora has sprung up in the factory yards, the result of 
 seeds shaken out of the wool. 
 
 From Croix I went to Boulogne and laid the first stone of the 
 church of St. John, confirming in the old temporary church. The 
 French seemed much interested in our function at the stone-laying, 
 and were very respectful and attentive during the service, all un- 
 covering when at the close I pronounced the Benediction, holding 
 my pastoral staff in my left hand while I raised my right over them
 
 90 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1888 
 
 as they crowded the street in front of the site. An Enghsh lady 
 told me that she heard one Frenchman say to another, " Je ne le 
 comprends pas, mais c'est tres gentil." Upon arriving at Paris, I 
 received an invitation from our Ambassador, Lord Lytton, which 
 I was unable to accept, being engaged at Versailles for confirmation 
 and other work ; but upon my return from Chantilly, where I went 
 from Paris to confirm the stable lads and jockey boys, I found 
 a letter to say that Lord and Lady Lytton hoped I would come 
 to the Embassy. He was painfully interested in agricultural depres- 
 sion, and spoke much of the condition of his Hertfordshire property 
 of Knebworth. He spoke also of our mutual friend Sir A. Lyall, 
 and of his governorship of the North-West Provinces. Lord Lytton 
 was somewhat short, with a profusion of long, dark, curly hair ; slow 
 in his movements, and slow also in his speech. The French are 
 much pleased and honoured by his appointment, and look upon it 
 as England's peace-offering to France. 
 
 Upon this visit to Paris I confirmed in the Embassy Church, and 
 presided at a meeting of the Building Committee for the new church 
 to be built by Sir Richard Wallace. The site alone cost ;^ 15,000. 
 Preaching on the Sunday in the Embassy Church upon the death of 
 the Kaiser William, I paid my tribute to his honoured memory in 
 somewhat strong terms. Some — presumably French, or with French 
 proclivities — left the church, so strong was still the anti-German 
 feeling. The correspondent of the New York Herald came into the 
 vestry afterwards and asked for my sermon. It was published next 
 day in the Paris edition, and cabled to New York for the issue in 
 that city. 
 
 In travelling back to Calais en route for England, the equinox did 
 its best to prevent my return. It blew a furious gale, which the 
 windows of the railway carriage were quite unable to withstand. 
 But they were French windows ! About midnight, between 
 Boulogne and Calais, we were turned out in a tunnel, and had 
 to make our way as best we could with our luggage, lighted only by 
 flambeaux, to the tunnel's mouth, where a great fall of rock had 
 completely blocked both it and the deep cutting outside, the rails only 
 appearing here and there. Thus we made our way, stumbling and 
 tumbling over debris, to another train waiting for us beyond the 
 rock slip. A black night, a fierce gale, a bitter wind ! " Quelle 
 experience," as an exasperated Frenchman said, as we were nearly 
 crushed against the wheels of the engine that had been run up
 
 i«88] CONSECRATION OF A CHURCH qi 
 
 against the fallen rocks at the tunnel's mouth, and were only saved 
 from falling amongst them by the glare of the engine's fire. Then 
 on again, arriving at Calais, of course, (}uite out of dale. It was strange 
 to see successive trains arriving in darkness, their lamps, like ours, 
 blown out by the fierceness of the wind. But they were French 
 lamps ! Nothing had crossed during the previous day, so fierce 
 was the fury of the gale. The Folkestone boat, in crossing from 
 Boulogne with three hundred passengers on board, was nearly lost. 
 I have known the Channel at all points of crossing, but never 
 crossed on such a night as this — " carried up to the heavens, and 
 down again to the deep." I thought we must have struck llic 
 bottom of the Channel. Perhaps we did, for the throes of that boat 
 from stem to stern spoke well for her build, the seas making a clean 
 sweep of her decks and finding their way into the overcrowded 
 saloon, strewn thickly with miserable humanity. 
 
 After a few days' stay in England I left again on 21 April for 
 Belgium, by way of Antwerp, confirming at Bruges, and on to 
 Brussels, preaching and confirming in both churches, and thence to 
 Aachen for confirmation. The cathedral is a circular Norman 
 church — like the Templars' churches — grim and very interesting. 
 The triforium of dark marble, old and age-worn. Thirty-seven 
 emperors were crowned here. What a history ! From Aachen via 
 Koln I visited Wiesbaden, where I consecrated a new aisle of the 
 church and confirmed. Mr. Christopher Benson, the Archbishop's 
 brother, did much for this church. He resided here for some years 
 and took pupils. 
 
 From Wiesbaden I went to Cassel, confirming en route at Frank- 
 fort. At Cassel I consecrated the new English church in the 
 presence of a large congregation, the Governor of the province, 
 the Burgomeister of Cassel, and leading Germans of the town and 
 neighbourhood being present. The Hessians expressed themselves 
 as much delighted with my sermon upon the work of Boniface, 
 Sturmi, and their fellow-labourers in Upper Hesse and Thuringen. 
 They were heard to say, "The EngHsh Bishop knows more about 
 the history of our country than we do." It was a great day in 
 Cassel; the Enghsh and German flags intertwined, and all very 
 friendly and cordial. The Emperor and Empress Frederick tele- 
 graphed their good wishes from Berhn, sending their contribution 
 of ^30 to the Building Fund. This was very kind and thoughtful, 
 for he was at that time sinking from the fatal disease of which he
 
 92 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1888 
 
 died about six weeks later. Queen Victoria was with them, and it 
 was all the more kind of them to remember me and my work at 
 such a time. In the afternoon I confirmed in the new church, and 
 then drove out to Wilhelmshohe, the beautiful prison, in 1870, of 
 the Emperor Napoleon III. The gardens, lakes, fountains, and 
 waterfalls supplied from the Hercules cascade above them are quite 
 magnificent. The day concluded with a dinner given by the Build- 
 ing Committee, and a large reception, at which an American lady 
 came up to me and expressed her thankfulness at finding such a 
 church ready for her upon her arrival from America. Colonel 
 Lambert, who stands 6 feet 6 inches high, and was much with the 
 Emperor Frederick during the war, came and talked to me about it. 
 He was wounded at Mars le Tour. When at Aldershot, upon the 
 occasion of the Jubilee review, the late Duke of Cambridge took 
 special notice of him, of which he seemed very proud. 
 
 Upon leaving Cassel I went to Heidelberg to settle Church 
 difficulties in that chaplaincy, and confirm, one of the candidates 
 being a son of Ellen Terry. Then on to Stuttgart, where I preached 
 and confirmed in our beautiful church of St. Catharine. Prince 
 Adolphus of Teck and Prince Herman of Saxe-Weimar were 
 present. I went afterwards to lunch with our Secretary of Legation, 
 Mr. (now Sir) Cunningham Greene, who was to become ten years 
 later our envoy at Pretoria, in the days of the fruitless conferences 
 between Lord Milner and Kruger which preceded the war. At a 
 reception afterwards met Sir Henry Baron, our charge d'affaires ; 
 also Prince Adolphus of Teck, a good-looking young fellow of 
 twenty-two years. He is staying with his relations, the King and 
 Queen of Wurtemberg, learning German. I told him that I re- 
 membered his mother when Princess Mary of Cambridge, at a ball 
 at Shrubland Park, in Suffolk, as far back as the year 1S57. My 
 sermon on the Emperor Frederick's health, I was told, pleased the 
 royal Germans who were present. 
 
 Leaving Stuttgart, I went to Montreux in Switzerland for con- 
 firmation work and our annual Conference of chaplains, confirming 
 at Baden-Baden e7i route. Pere Hyacinthe spoke at one of our 
 Conference sessions. His French is beautiful, and he is most 
 eloquent in the use of it. He repeated in part what I had read in 
 his Jersey sermons, referring to the Anglican Church as the medium 
 of uniting Christendom. At dinner afterwards I sat between Pere 
 Hyacinthe and Madame Loyson, his wife, and wondered what he
 
 i888] A SUNDAY IN NATURE'S TEMPLE (,3 
 
 thought of my bad French. I hope the good dinner in some 
 measure compensated for it. The narci.ssus at Les Avants was 
 coming into blossom, and all looking very beautiful in its May 
 dress. 
 
 At the close of the Conference I went to Lausanne and (iencva 
 for confirmations, and then to Berne and Thun for a few days in 
 the Oberland. Grindelwald was in a very snowy, wintry stale ; the 
 Swiss scarcely remember so late a season. The monunienls in the 
 churchyard to the memory of those killed in the Alps are well 
 worth inspection. There is a spot near Grindelwald which I greatly 
 love ; the ubiquitous Baedeker even does not draw attention to it, 
 nor will I by mentioning its name and revealing its whereabouts. 
 It is a walk of about an hour to a little grassy plateau between two 
 waterfalls, with the grandest view to be obtained of Wctterhorn, 
 Monch, Eiger, and Jungfrau. I should like to build a chalet there. 
 It was still so winterly that the Staubbach at Lauterbrunnen had at 
 its foot a dome of ice some thirty feet high, the accumulated 
 freezings of the spray through the winter months. I spent Sunday 
 up at the Isenfluhe, whence a glorious view of the Jungfrau, and read 
 the Sunday service in the pine woods, amid the roar of constant 
 avalanches. Nature's grand temple filled with Nature's grandest 
 music. A Sunday much to be remembered. All too short a break 
 in the midst of my work, for which — in far Holland — I had to 
 travel through the night, confirming next day at Bonn, and so to 
 the Hague. In those days passenger trains were taken over the 
 Rhine near Cleves on this wise. The river there is about one- 
 third of a mile wide, and flows through a dead level. A bridge 
 without an enormous embankment would be impossible, impeding 
 the river traffic. About half a mile, therefore, from the river the 
 engine left the front of the train and went to the rear, putting some 
 trucks between itself and the train to prevent its fires being ex- 
 tinguished when the Rhine is in flood. The train was then pushed 
 down an incline through the flood-water, until it ran into a mighty 
 steam-ferry. Arrived at the opposite bank, down came another 
 engine with more trucks, and hooking on, pulled the train ofl" the 
 steam-ferry, through the flood-water, up an incline, and away. The 
 number of trucks required depended, of course, upon the amount 
 of flood-water. At the Hague I confirmed in the well-built church, 
 which I have already described. From thence I made my way to 
 Rotterdam, and so back to England.
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 The Baltic provinces of Russia — " Heaven protects the Czar : how can we com- 
 pass his destruction ? " — Napoleon's retreat from Moscow — Audience with the 
 Emperor William II — "Now what will you say of our Kaiser in England?" 
 — Yesterday a living, to-day a dead Kaiser — Visit to the Emperor Frederick's 
 tomb at Potsdam — Frederick the Great's elm tree — A silent prayer by the 
 Emperor Frederick's tomb — " Lerne zu leiden, ohne zu Klagen " — Baron 
 Munchausen's castle. 
 
 JUST before leaving England on 14 November, 1888, for North 
 Germany and Russia, Count Seckendorf, who was about to 
 accompany the Empress Frederick to England, was instructed 
 by Her Majesty to write and say how sorry she was that she would 
 not be in Berlin at the time of my visit. Her Majesty was about 
 to start for England, after her great sorrow, to stay with the Queen. 
 On my way I made a brief halt at Utrecht in Holland. The 
 cathedral is a splendid fragment of a grand church. The nave 
 fell in a storm two hundred years ago, and was removed ; thus the 
 tower stands some fifty yards from the transept and choir. This 
 tower is a wonderful piece of architecture, 350 feet high, of red 
 brick ; the first two stages are almost Moorish, then a lantern of 
 decorated work. The base is pierced by a very beautiful archway, 
 and must be nearly fifteen yards through. The interior, as with all 
 Dutch churches, is desecrated by divers kinds of hideous meeting- 
 house fixtures. There had been a sharp snap of winter here already, 
 grass mowing and skating going on side by side ! I was told that 
 the great bridge near Arnheim, which crosses the Isel, a branch of 
 the Rhine, was mined during the Franco-German War. The Dutch 
 stationed a sentry upon it with orders to blow it up if a German 
 train attempted to cross into Holland ; or if the French landed on 
 the Dutch coast, and attempted to get through Holland by it into 
 Germany, it was to be sent up into the air. 
 
 Upon my way up to Berlin I stayed at Hanover for confirmation 
 and other work, and passing through Berlin on my way to Russia, 
 
 94
 
 1888] -HEAVEN PROTECTS THH CZAR" ,,5 
 
 I was met at the station by the chaplain, who handed me a letter 
 from Count Seckendorf, to say how glad the Empress would be if I 
 would be so kind as to visit the Emperor I'redcriek's tomb in the 
 Friedens-Kirche at Potsdam, and say a silent prayer beside it. 
 I had but twenty minutes in Berlin liefore going on in the Russian 
 train about midnight. As we crossed the Vistula next day, it was 
 full of floe ice, indicating an early winter, and the railway guards and 
 officials here already wrapped in their winter sheepskins. Upon this 
 occasion I did not go further into Russia than the Baltic provinces, 
 having a special church trouble to settle at Riga. I was told that 
 in the recent accident to the Czar's train at Borki, a servant who 
 was handing him coffee was killed, and that a dog on the Empress's 
 lap was also killed. The roof of the carriage was torn off, and fell 
 slanting over them, forming a protecting shield, from under which 
 they crept. Little Princess Xenia, whom I remember at Copen- 
 hagen, had the narrowest escape of all. The effect upon the ignorant 
 country people, and even upon the Nihilists, of the escape of the 
 Imperial Family was said to be good. They said, " Heaven protects 
 the Czar : how can we compass his destruction ? " This was the 
 last of the Nihilists' attempts upon the life of Alexander HI. When 
 my train stopped at Kovno upon the journey back from Riga, the 
 Archbishop of Wilna, who had joined the train at his own city that 
 morning, got out. His travelling garb was a purple silk overdress 
 lined with fur; upon his head a high black caftan, with veil behind; 
 a jewelled and enamelled pectoral cross on his breast There was 
 much bowing as he passed in the snow to the station, Russian 
 officers taking off their caps, and holding them in their hand, he 
 kissing them on both cheeks, or on the top of their heads. The 
 ladies made great and demonstrative obeisances, kissing his hands, 
 etc. He bowed profusely and graciously to all with his hands 
 crossed St. Andrews-wise upon his breast. The whole train stood 
 looking on, and in great solemnity. What would the travellers by 
 an English express think of such a detention and such a function at 
 Swindon or Rugby? Kovno lies upon the line of Napoleon's retreat 
 from Moscow by way of Smolensk. At Mohila are thou.sands of 
 mounds where resistance was made, and the slaughtered buried. 
 Near Mohila is a house in which Napoleon was secreted by a 
 Russian, and driven away disguised in a sledge. This man was 
 observed to have become suddenly rich, and confessed after the war 
 was over what he had done. Napoleon gave him some valuables
 
 96 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1888 
 
 which he had upon his person. He was probably aiming at reach- 
 ing the nearest German territor>', avoiding the garrison of Warsaw, 
 and the Russian troops in that region. 
 
 Upon arrival back in Berlin I consecrated a mausoleum, which 
 had been erected by wealthy parents as the resting-place of an only 
 child, a little girl. It is a costly little building of yellow stone ; 
 there is room for several more coffins, the crypt having two small 
 wings, one on either side of the entrance. I held a short service, 
 but it was impressive, and the parents — she English — were very 
 grateful. Mr. Grove, of Berlin, had the orders for alterations at 
 Kronberg, the Empress Frederick's house near Homburg. He told 
 me it would be very fine when completed. The present Emperor 
 bought it for /^ 20,000, and gave it to his mother. Mr. Grove saw 
 a good deal of Mackenzie when in Berlin. About a fortnight before 
 the Emperor's death he asked him what hope there was. He replied 
 that he might live for some time to come. It was the Empress 
 Frederick's intention to fill the east window of St. George's Church 
 with glass to the memory of her husband, and Queen Victoria would 
 place one in the nave, the English of Berlin wishing to fill the rose 
 window in the royal pew to his memor)-. 
 
 I confirmed and preached in St. George's Church on the Sunday, 
 and preached twice to the factory people out at Schonweide and 
 Rummelsburg, on either side of the Sprey. I was shown our 
 Queen's signature in the vestry book of St. George's : " Victoria, 
 R.I., April 25, 188S." Under it " Victoria," no R.I., though she was 
 both. Then a space, and then "Beatrice"; above hers, "Henry 
 Battenburg." A joke went round at his writing his name above hers, 
 when some one remarked, " Ah ! here in Germany gentlemen come 
 before ladies." Then follow the signatures : " Victoria of Prussia," 
 " Sophia of Prussia," and " Margarita of Prussia." Our Queen was 
 much pleased with the church. " Es ist eine Schone Kirche," she 
 said to the chaplain, forgetting that he was English. 
 
 Upon returning to my quarters I found a request to attend an 
 audience of the Emperor William the next day at 12.45. I ^^^ 
 much talk with Lady Ermyntrude Malet at dinner about the 
 Emperor Frederick's illness. She told me that she should never 
 forget the day upon which she heard that he was a doomed man ; 
 that was before he went to Ems. Lady Ermyntrude thought it very 
 good for the Empress that she had gone to England, so completely 
 overwhelmed was she with all she had passed through, so much
 
 1888] AUDIENCE WITH WILLIAM II 97 
 
 changed by the constant grief and anguish of that terrible time. 
 The interest she took in the church was about her only comfort ; she 
 visited it frequently, and superintended little alterations and im- 
 provements, which distracted her mind in a measure from the one 
 thought. Lady Ermyntrude thinks she will be happy at Kronberg 
 altering and managing as she pleases ; interest and occupation being 
 what she needs. The Empress Augusta wrote regretting her 
 absence from Berlin at the time of my visit ; she was always kind 
 and ever thoughtful. 
 
 Sir Edward Malet informed me that the Emperor had communi- 
 cated with him about the audience with me, and he had replied to 
 the effect that he should be very glad if he would see me. He 
 expressed himself as much gratified at the Emperor wishintr to do so, 
 and said he felt sure it would do good. I told him that I thought it 
 ver>' kind of the Emperor wishing to see me, since he could not, of 
 course, take the same interest in me and our Church that his father 
 and mother had done. " No," he said, " that is true : but I am sure 
 it is well you should see him ; indeed, when I was consulted about 
 it, I replied that I thought it would be right that he should see you." 
 
 So on Tuesday, 27 November, I went to the Kaiser's Palace at 
 12.45 for the audience. The Emperor was recei\'ing a large num- 
 ber of military men of various regiments, all, of course, in full 
 uniform and decorations. These passed out in considerable numbers 
 as I entered. I was ushered into a large audience room at the top of 
 the great staircase, and requested to wait for a few moments. In 
 about five minutes, consumed by much going to and fro of officers 
 and court servants, the doors at the end of the large saloon were 
 opened, and I was conducted by the Hofmarschal to an inner 
 room, and thence through a short approach into a third room, small 
 but richly furnished. After a short pause the Emperor entered, 
 bowing rapidly two or three times^ and advancing quickly to where 
 I was standing, grasped me heartily and warmly by the hand. He 
 was in uniform, wearing the Order of the Black Eagle. He spoke 
 of the church, its beauty, and quiet situation. I said in reply that 
 it was all that could be desired, and that the EngUsh community of 
 Berlin had much for which to thank His Majest}-'s royal house, the 
 site having been given by his grandfather, and the church built 
 practically by his parents. Having thus cleared the way by the 
 recognition of past benefactions, I ventured further to ask His 
 Majesty to complete the good work already done, by granting a site
 
 98 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1888 
 
 near the church for a chaplain's house. He replied that he would 
 see what could be done, as he knew the chaplain had at present to 
 live a long way off. Knowing that Church matters could not possibly 
 have any great interest with him, I turned the subject, and said 
 that I was watching with much hope the result of the joint blockade 
 by England and Germany of the East African coast, for I knew South 
 Africa. At this he became animated at once, and evidently much 
 interested, saying with empressefnent that he thought it would be a 
 very good thing for civilization and Christianity, but at present the 
 commercial company seems Hkely to be "a mere fiasco." I said 
 that I felt sure the Arab slave-dealers would resent the blockade by 
 committing cruelties in the interior. He replied that was just the 
 point : all these troubles in Egypt had come through the Arabs, and 
 so it would be now again in East Africa ; that Gordon's troubles 
 arose through the Arabs. I told the Emperor that I possessed a 
 letter written by Gordon the day after one of his slave-trade 
 battles, in which he describes the engagement. He said, " I think 
 Mr. Gladstone has been the cause of all your African and Egyptian 
 troubles." I replied that he had certainly dragged our flag every- 
 where through the mud in Africa. To this he readily assented. 
 He added, " I have read Mr. Froude's book, and it seems that he 
 does not like Gladstone." I told the Emperor that I remem- 
 bered the time after the lamentable affair of Majuba Hill, which 
 resulted in giving back the Transvaal to the Boers, after solemnly 
 pledging ourselves to settlers and natives that we would never do so — 
 when Englishmen were glad to pass themselves off as Americans or 
 Germans, to profess themselves, in fact, anything but Englishmen. 
 Could we have been brought lower than that? I then told His 
 Majesty that I had lived in Zululand and the Transvaal, upon which 
 he begged me to tell him about my life there. I recounted my 
 visit to Cetywayo at Ulundi, describing the great annual review 
 when I sat at old King Panda's side in the great military kraal, 
 while Cetywayo, who was then Crown Prince, came up in the 
 centre of his regiment, composed entirely of chiefs, and performed 
 a war dance before us. I told him that Cetywayo questioned me 
 closely as to the strength of the English army, asking if we could 
 show such an army as his, and how I repHed that we could not show 
 perhaps as many black men in England — at which the Emperor 
 laughed — but that his army was as nothing compared to ours, at 
 which Cetywayo shook his head incredulously, and said, " Why
 
 1888] AUDIENCE WITH WILLIAM II 99 
 
 my soldiers rise up in number like the blades of grass upon 
 the veldt." Seeing that the Emperor was really interested in all 
 these Zulu military details, I went on to describe the Zulu mode of 
 attack, the deploying upon the veldt, in their regiments of various- 
 coloured shields, the gradual formation from a line to a crescent 
 then the closing in to a circle, and then the final rush with the 
 assegai upon the enclosed enemy. He was completely absorbed, 
 clicking in the peculiar German way when excited and pleased. 
 He said, " I have seen one of those Zulu assegais, Uncle Edward 
 (the Prince of Wales) brought one to Berlin to show me." He 
 repeated again and again, as I described the strong beautiful figures 
 of the young Zulu warriors, their dress, courage, and endurance, 
 *' What a pity, what a pity to destroy such an army." The Emperor 
 has a very decided way of shaking his forefinger when making a 
 statement, which shows character and decision of purpose. He 
 asked if the Zulus were not great hunters, and had a mode of hunt- 
 ing by which they surrounded the game, and drove them into pits. 
 This I fully described, and the vast herds so captured. I told him 
 about Marenski, the East Prussian, whose missionary work at 
 Botsabelo in the Transvaal I had seen when staying with him. He 
 was evidently pleased at Marenski calling the fort protecting his 
 native settlement from hostile attack " Fort Wilhelm." I promised 
 to send His Majesty my African book, in which the details of my 
 African life were fully described. He talked of Rider Haggard's 
 books, and asked if he really knew the country and described it 
 correctly, laughing much over some of the stories in Kini:; Solomon's 
 Mines. I reminded him of the man whose trousers were taken 
 away, at which he laughed immensely, and said, " Yes, yes, the man, 
 too, who shaved off half his beard and moustache." He thinks the 
 best of Haggard's books is S/ie. We then talked of the Franco- 
 German War. I told him that the first European news I received 
 upon landing in Natal in 1870 was that Napoleon was a prisoner. 
 " And what did you think of it ? " " We did not believe it. Your 
 Majesty." " No," he said, " I don't suppose you did." Although 
 the Emperor had had a long morning with his military work, and 
 was confined to the palace by a cold caught when shooting in the 
 Hartz Mountains, and although his luncheon hour was past some 
 time, and the Duke and Duchess of Aosta were his guests, he kept 
 me talking more than half an hour, a quite unusually long audience, 
 I was told. About ten minutes is the extent of an ordinary inter-
 
 loo CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1888 
 
 view. At last I made a move, to which he responded. Holding 
 my hand in a good hearty grasp, he said, " Now I hope you will not 
 forget to send me the book," then bowing twice, went out at the 
 same door as that by which he had entered. 
 
 I met at lunch that day Countess Bernstorff, widow of the German 
 Ambassador in London, who spoke most affectionately of " dear old 
 England." Also at dinner I met Marenski, of Botsabelo in the 
 Transvaal, who was delighted when I told him that I had been 
 speaking of him and his work to the Emperor. The English and 
 Germans were all surprised and delighted at my interview with the 
 Kaiser. It was quite unlooked for, and they felt that it would do 
 much good in the then somewhat strained relations consequent 
 upon the feeling in Germany against Dr. Mackenzie concerning the 
 Emperor Frederick's illness. No English appeared to know the 
 Emperor yet, and I was given to understand that no Englishman 
 had seen him, except our Ambassador, since he became Emperor. 
 The Germans asked, " Now what will you say of our Kaiser in 
 England ? " Mr. Lowe, of the Times, expressed his surprise to 
 the chaplain at the Emperor having received me. " How could the 
 Bishop have seen the Kaiser when he was ill, and seeing no one ? " 
 He telegraphed at once to the Times a report of the interview, and 
 German papers copied it all over Germany. 
 
 Yesterday a living, to-day a dead Kaiser, for on the following 
 day, 28 November, I went to Potsdam. It was a lovely day for 
 November, quite spring-like, and one almost expected to hear birds 
 singing in the woods. New Babelsberg, which is passed on the 
 way, is beautifully situated in lake and forest of Scotch firs, inter- 
 spersed with islands. This was left to the Empress Augusta for her 
 life. From the Potsdam station I drove past the Marmor Palace, 
 the Potsdam residence of the reigning Kaiser. Under this palace 
 at the end of the new bridge stands an old gnarled elm tree, under 
 which petitioners stood and held up their petitions to Frederick the 
 Great when he appeared at the window. If he was willing to receive 
 the petitioners he called them up to hear their requests. The tree 
 is low, small, decayed, sheathed in iron up to the branches, and 
 surrounded by iron railings. 
 
 Potsdam is full of palaces, a fine, clean, handsome town, not too 
 new, dating back to the time of Frederick the Great. Fine old 
 trees and water everywhere. After driving for about one and a half 
 miles we reached the outskirts, and the carriage stopped at a lodge
 
 1888] THE EMPEROR FREDERICK'S TOMB ,oi 
 
 near the Friedens-Kirche. Here I presented Count Scckcndurrs 
 letter containing the Empress Frederick's kind wish thai I should 
 visit the Emperor's tomb. Without the presentation of this letter 
 there would have been no chance of admission. The letter had to 
 be left in the hands of those who had charge of the church, in order 
 that the visit might be verified as one authorized by the Empress 
 Frederick herself. I was conducted through walks and approaches 
 planted with fir and evergreen shrubs, to the Friedens-Kirche. It is 
 Byzantine, of simple but beautifully finished style, in yellow free- 
 stone. A lofty campanile with open stone galleries stands at the 
 west end. The interior consists of a lofty nave and two aisles. 
 Much marble is used throughout — black, white, and red. At the 
 west end stands an organ in a gallery, built round a rose window. 
 The nave and its pillars are simple, severe Byzantine. At the 
 chancel steps are two graves covered with handsome marble slabs 
 and curbs. These are the graves of the late old Kaiser William's 
 brother and his wife Louise. An angel of full size, in white marble, 
 with wings slightly expanded, sits at the head of the graves, looking 
 with placid grave face up to heaven, holding a trumpet in the right 
 hand, which rests on the knee, ready for sounding, and a closed 
 book under the left ready to open for the judgment. This is a 
 sculpture of rare interest and merit, and is alone worthy of a visit 
 to Potsdam. The quiet, restful silence of the church and its situa- 
 tion lend a mysterious power and solemnity to the figure. Behind 
 this sculpture is an apse cased in marble, and around it in German 
 these words, " Den Frieden lasse ich euch, meinen Frieden gebe 
 ich euch, Nicht gebe ich euch wie die Welt giebt." A tribune of 
 seats in red velvet runs round the apse. The pulpit is of white 
 marble. Upon the right of the apse is a small baptistery with a 
 font in its midst. Upon the left wall hangs a good picture of the 
 Saviour's portrait upon St. Veronica's handkerchief. On the left of 
 the apse, exactly corresponding to the baptistery and now made 
 into a small mortuary chapel for the purpose, rest the remains of 
 Friederich der Edler, pending the completion of the mausoleum. 
 Until a fortnight before my visit the coffin had rested in the nave 
 of the church, near the tomb of Fried<-rich Wilhelm and Louise. 
 Thence, the mortuary chapel having been redecorated, frescoed, 
 gilded, and otherwise prepared, the coffin was moved. The chapel 
 is entered by folding doors of white and gold. These were unlocked, 
 and I was allowed to stand close to the coffin. The little chapel
 
 I02 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1888 
 
 had probably not been opened for any but members of the Royal 
 Family, and I felt it a great kindness on the part of the Empress to 
 allow me the honour of visiting so sacred a spot. The interior was 
 lighted by a window, looking out upon the small lake by which the 
 new mausoleum was being built. It presented a mass of colour 
 consequent upon the almost endless number of wreaths and costly 
 ribbons overset with gilt and silvered ornaments, which literally 
 choked the walls. At the east end are these words, " Lasset die 
 Kindlein zu mir Kommen," and under them stands the small grey 
 sarcophagus of young Prince Sigismund, the son of the Emperor 
 and Empress Frederick, who died at about five years of age. A 
 parting visit to this chapel is thus entered in the Crown Prince's 
 diary before he left for the Franco-German War: "July 25, 1870. 
 Quietly with my wife to visit the grave of Sigismund, our departed 
 little boy, and to take the Sacrament. Learn that I must leave to- 
 morrow. Here we knelt, etc." Next to Sigismund's sarcophagus 
 and westward stood Prince Waldemar's coffin. He died at the age 
 of thirteen of diphtheria. It stood crosswise, and was covered 
 with a white, flowered silk pall. Then longwise — that is head to 
 the east and filling up the rest of the space in the tiny chapel — 
 stood Kaiser Friederich's coffin. It was slightly raised from the 
 floor, and sloped from the head towards the feet. It is very large, 
 and was covered with an ample, white, flowered silk pall, large gold- 
 lace cross in the centre, with gold-lace trimmings running round. The 
 pall fell around and covered the floor to the wreaths and ribbons 
 before mentioned which hung upon the walls. At the immediate 
 foot in the centre, upon a bank of other ribbons, richly ornamented 
 with gilt and silvered devices, was a wreath placed by the present 
 Emperor and Empress, with the monogram " W.A." in gold. Two 
 gilt and three silvered wreaths lie upon the coffin itself; no more. 
 All was, of course, altered when the coffin was removed to the 
 mausoleum on its completion. 
 
 He has outsoared the shadows of our night, 
 
 Envy and culumny and hate and pain ; 
 And that unrest which men miscall delight 
 
 Can touch him not, nor torture him again. — Shelley. 
 
 Here at the foot of the coffin I knelt, and prayed that good might 
 come to Germany and the world out of this sad death, and that 
 wisdom might be granted to the new Emperor to reign and rule 
 with wisdom and with judgment. I prayed also for the widowed
 
 1888] THE NEW MAUSOLEUM ,03 
 
 Empress ; that she might be supported and comforted through all 
 her sad sorrow and troubles. Hither, till she left for England, she 
 had come twice daily when at her palace hard by, where he died, to 
 visit and pray beside the coffin in its peaceful resting-place.' I 
 could hardly realize as I knelt there how close I was to the earthly 
 remains of one so great, so good, so brave ; true hero on the battle- 
 field ; true hero also on the bed of mortal sickness and suffering. 
 " Lerne zu leiden, ohne zu Ivlagen," he said to the present Emperor, 
 the Crown Prince, not long before his death, though the photo- 
 graphs which bear these words represent him saying them with his 
 sweet smile to the Empress Frederick as he lies in bed, she kneeling 
 beside him and holding his hand. 
 
 I then went out and looked at the progress which the new mauso- 
 leum was making, the first stone of which had been laid by the 
 Empress Frederick about a fortnight before. To this mausoleum 
 the coffin was to be removed when the building was completed, 
 in about two years from the time of my visit. The design was that 
 of a circular building upon the plan, the Empress told me, of the 
 Church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. No quieter or more 
 beautiful spot in Potsdam could have been chosen than this. A 
 peaceful resting-place beside the Church of Peace. A small light 
 cloister wall runs from the north side of the Friedens-Kirche, in the 
 centre of which is an opening formed by a Byzantine colonnade. 
 Close up to this colonnade runs a pretty piece of water — a lakelette. 
 Through this colonnade the water is seen from the mausoleum. 
 Close at hand is a wood, and all around and overshadowing stand 
 fine old elms. Just the spot he would have chosen : he was so fond 
 of trees. The workmen had left work, and all was silent. It was a 
 lovely day, and the soft November sun came quite warm through 
 the bare branches of the old elms. This is to be the final resting- 
 place of the hero of many a hard-fought fight : of Koenigsgratz, of 
 Worth, Mars-le-Tour, Gravelotte, and Sedan. And here with him 
 now sleeps the widowed wife who built their resting-place. 
 
 I left Berlin that night for Dresden, acting as Queen's messenger 
 for Sir Edward Malet by carrying his dispatch-bag to our charg^ 
 d'affaires for Saxony — an office I never held before or since ! The 
 Enghsh Times and Dresden Anzelger had the following notice of 
 my interview with the Kaiser, which I read upon my arrival in 
 Dresden : " Knowing that Bishop Wilkinson had lived in Zululand 
 for some years, His Majesty, during his interview with the Bishop,
 
 I04 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1888 
 
 questioned him very closely as to the military organization of that 
 country, and listened with profound interest while the Bishop 
 detailed and described the Zulu system of regiments with a vivid- 
 ness that suggested a page out of Kitig Soio?tion^s Mines. The 
 Emperor said he would like very much to have a trophy of Zulu 
 assegais and shields, and the Bishop promised he would try to 
 gratify His Majesty's desire." 
 
 I was able in about a year and a half to collect, with some 
 difficulty, a considerable trophy of Zulu weapons and shields, and 
 presented them to the Emperor, who expressed great gratification at 
 my having obtained such a stand of native arms for him. They may 
 be seen in the Emperor's armoury at Berlin. 
 
 At Dresden I had the usual amount of work in the shape of con- 
 firmation, sermons, and receptions of the English and American 
 colonies in that city. 
 
 On my way back to England I stayed at the Weser Hill School, 
 near Hameln, for English lads reading for the army, dining one 
 evening at Baron Munchausen's picturesque old castle. It is 
 prettily situated amongst the outlying wooded hills of the Hartz 
 Mountains. The Baron is a descendant of the writer of the Miin- 
 chausen tales, and inherits a strong vein of his ancestor's humour. 
 Peter the Great was here once, and left a small silver cup, which is a 
 great treasure. The castle is full of family portraits. The Baron's 
 grandfather fought with us in the Peninsular War and at Waterloo, 
 being a Hanoverian. His weapons and shako hang in the hall 
 among much old family armour. Many rare trees grow in the 
 grounds, amongst others the American hemlock tree, and a nut tree 
 of great age and enormous growth, with a stem nearly, with out- 
 stretched arms, ten spans round. From Hameln I travelled to 
 Diisseldorf and confirmed, and so to England.
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 
 The Landes and its stilt-walkers — Arcachon and its pine forests — Biarritz and 
 St. Jean de Luz — Pau and the Pyrenees — Tours — Consecration of St. 
 George's Church, Paris — Interview with Sir Richard Wallace. 
 
 CROSSING from Southampton to Havre on Thursday, 21 Feb- 
 ruary, 1889, I began my work and travel of this year at Rouen. 
 Our chaplain at that time, Mr. Smythe, was chaplain at St. Ger- 
 mains during the siege of Paris. He was thrown much with Sir 
 R. Wallace through that time, and in recognition of his services 
 Sir Richard gave him a silver gilt service of plate, which cost 
 
 ;^2000, 
 
 Passing through Paris, I travelled to Bordeaux. The Gironde is 
 a fine river, Bordeaux being situated seventy miles from its mouth. 
 When it is high tide at its entrance to the sea, it is still flowing 
 at Bordeaux, and is yet three hours to high tide. The tide flows 
 thirty miles beyond Bordeaux, making altogether a tideway of one 
 hundred miles, an index of the flatness of the region through which 
 it flows. The Germans in 1870 came as far as Poictiers, and their 
 scouts were seen on the low hills on the other side of the river, but 
 they did not enter Bordeaux. This was the seat of government 
 during the siege of Paris, and here Lord Lyons lived during that 
 time. The public gardens contain magnificent standard white 
 magnolias, sixty feet and more in height, also fine groups of the 
 Chamceops exceha palm. We English owned all this region as 
 far as Pau for three hundred years. Moorish remains exist in this 
 region, as might be expected, seeing that the Moors invaded it as 
 far as Tours, where Charles Martel overthrew and drove them back. 
 A vast fair was in preparation at the time of my visit, acres of 
 booths and wooden houses were being erected. It is held in 
 March and October, merchants coming from Spain and Italy— a 
 southern Nishni Novgorod. 
 
 After confirming and preaching I left for Arcachon. This is a 
 
 105
 
 io6 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1889 
 
 peculiar place and a strange region. The route lies through forests 
 of the Pi7ius maritima ; the sands of this district were left by the 
 sea a hundred years ago, and have been somewhat fertilized. This 
 region of the Landes, as it is called, extends from the mouth of the 
 Gironde to Bayonne, a distance of one hundred miles; it is a belt of 
 country about twenty miles deep inland from the sea. It is the 
 land of the Basques, a people supposed to have come from the 
 East through Hungary to the Lower Pyrenees, Gascony, etc., and 
 there are no finer workmen in Europe, as emigrants always are 
 all the world over. Emigration is an index of grit, of "go," of 
 enterprise, and such components make good emigrants. The 
 Basque country is about equal in size to Scotland. On nearing 
 Arcachon, which lies a few miles off the main line from Paris to 
 Spain, the " Basin d' Arcachon " comes in view, with its distant 
 shore upon the further side. 
 
 At Arcachon I confirmed an English girl, who had arrived here in 
 September and was dying of consumption. Her one remaining 
 wish had been to live till I came for her confirmation. It was 
 a touching scene as the family gathered around her bed, with the 
 young man to whom she was engaged, and who had come all 
 the way from Bradford, in Yorkshire, to take leave. I shall not 
 forget her look as we parted. In forty-eight hours after she passed 
 happily and quietly away, and yet her friends had repeatedly told 
 her through the winter that she could not possibly live till the time 
 appointed for the confirmation. 
 
 I rode fifteen miles into the forest, which has many interesting 
 features, thousands upon thousands of acres of pines growing upon 
 high wildly-thrown sand-hills blown up from the shore by the wind. 
 The process of tapping the pines — which are much used as railway 
 sleepers — in order to extract the turpentine, is very interesting. At 
 this season, when the sap is rising and the turpentine begins to 
 flow, the operations for catching it are commencing. A curved 
 piece of tin is inserted into the bark to form a lip upon which to 
 catch the turpentine, and drip it into little metal vessels. These 
 hold a litre each, they are cleared once in three weeks into covered 
 tanks sunk in the forest. When full they are emptied into barrels 
 and sent off to Bordeaux. The planting of the Landes was the 
 work of Bremontier, a Frenchman ; a bust of him stands in the 
 Ville d'Hiver. The Gauls used to tap the pines which grew in 
 some parts of this country. They scooped a hole at the bottom
 
 1889] ARCACHON ,07 
 
 of the trunk into which the turpentine dripped, and even the 
 Romans are said to have done the same in their day. The forest 
 trees of a certain growth are deeply scored by this process, some 
 are almost entirely barked till a second bark forms and keeps them 
 alive. Some are giants of enormous size. One sees men in all 
 directions, with huge knives, making new and opening old scars 
 eight to ten feet long and varying in height, some working on 
 ladders, others on trees within reach as they stand on the ground — 
 formidable-looking creatures when encountered, armed with their 
 knives, in the dark forest. Wild boar, wild cattle, and roebuck are 
 found in the forest. The Erica lusitanica^ a beautiful spiral white 
 flowering heath, grows to such a height that we gathered (juantities 
 as we sat upon our horses. Bruyere and butcher's-brooni, arbutus 
 and Osmunda regalis fern form an undergrowth here and there. 
 Woodpeckers, jays, and crossbills abound. Arcachon has a great 
 oyster culture ; tiles are sunk in the bay to which the oysters attach 
 themselves, and stacks of bruyere made up into sheaves are placed 
 as fences amongst the tiles to keep the dogfish from devouring the 
 oysters. This district of the Landes is well described in Edniond 
 About's delightful story of Maitre Pierre. 
 
 We rode back to Arcachon by La Teste ; the houses are low and 
 quaint, the dresses of the people peculiar ; the women wear red 
 trousers, the men the overhanging blue biret, from which the word 
 " biretta " is derived. The sand of this district is underlaid by 
 a stratum of non-porous stone called " alios." It is reddish yellow 
 in colour, contains iron, and is in appearance like a soft sandstone. 
 This is the curse of the Landes. The water cannot penetrate it, 
 and since it lies about two feet below the soil, all drainage has to be 
 conducted on the surface. It is absolutely sterile ; when roots of 
 trees and shrubs reach it they rot and die. The Bay of Biscay can 
 be seen in the far distance outside the Basin d' Arcachon from 
 several points in the forest, and sometimes the distant Pyrenees. 
 The basin is strikingly like the Bay of Durban. 
 
 Here we have a very picturesque, well-built, well-placed little 
 church in the Ville d'Hiver, where I confirmed. A long stretch of 
 marine villas lies along the bay, their gardens running down to the 
 water's edge. At the end of these villas stands a large chateau built 
 upon speculation some years ago in the hope that the Emperor 
 Napoleon III would make Arcachon his seaside residence; but the 
 Empress had a fancy for Biarritz, being on the Spanish border, and
 
 io8 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1889 
 
 her influence practically made Biarritz what it is. The chateau 
 stands, and is likely to stand, empty. In our walks about Arcachon 
 we passed the Countess Clery, who escaped with the Empress from 
 the Tuileries, as described already in a former chapter. At the 
 end of the bay-side villas, six hundred in number, extending along two 
 and a half miles of shore, stands " The Park," a fine large villa in 
 six hundred acres of forest with English walks and drives, in which 
 the date palm was fruiting, and quantities of yellow mimosa in 
 blossom. From here the sea views are lovely. It was hoped that 
 our Queen would have taken this place that year instead of going to 
 Biarritz. 
 
 From Arcachon I went to St. Jean de Luz. It was, for this part 
 of the world, a terrible night of continuous snow. I quite thought, 
 as the night advanced and the snow deepened, that our train would 
 be blocked. This was the very night— and by the next train follow- 
 ing mine — that the wretched Pigott of Times notoriety travelled 
 down to end his terrible career at Madrid. Here, at St. Jean de 
 Luz, Wellington spent a winter during the Peninsular campaign. 
 The house in which he lived is close to that in which I stayed. He 
 was very strict in his orders that the Basques should be well treated, 
 and their property respected. This has left his good name amongst 
 them. Though the subjects of France, they were in sympathy with 
 us. At one period of the campaign Wellington was encamped 
 across the Bidassoa in Spain, the French being encamped on this 
 side. The Basques told him where he could cross the river at a low 
 spring tide. The EngUsh left their tents standing — which were in 
 sight of the French camp — crossed the river at night, and won 
 a victory. The old Basque people hereabouts tell many stories of 
 the English during the Peninsular War. The French and Spaniards 
 plundered them, the English always protected both them and their 
 property. An old woman tells of her husband who was on a journey 
 with his money in his boot, and how the French took him, were 
 stripping him and had got to his boots when an Englishman came 
 in sight, which put the Frenchmen immediately to flight. When the 
 English came upon him the old man possessed nothing but his 
 boots and his booty ! 
 
 The Basque church here is very Spanish in appearance. It has 
 three galleries of wood inside, narrow and black. In these the men 
 sit. All Basque churches have such galleries, and the churches on 
 Sundays are crowded. A large ship hangs up at the chancel arch.
 
 i889] PRINCESS AMELIE ,09 
 
 a votive offering from these seafaring people. The English built 
 this church when holding these provinces in the time of Edward, the 
 Black Prince ; they also built the cathedral of Bayonne. On the 
 Bidassoa is an island upon which the exchange took place between 
 Francis I of France and his two boys. He had been imprisoned 
 at Madrid. The two boys were taken to their father's wretched 
 prison ; he being liberated, at the cost of their imprisonment, to 
 become King of France again. 
 
 As I passed Biarritz on my journey to Pau I saw the pre- 
 parations being made at the station for our Queen's visit. Pau, 
 which is finely situated upon a plateau looking away to the Pyrenees, 
 is the capital of the old kingdom of Beam, probably not larger than 
 Rutlandshire. At Pau Henry IV was born ; his chateau stands up 
 conspicuously upon the front of the town in the Place Henri IV. 
 Here I dedicated our new church of St. Andrew's, confirmed, and 
 attended a large reception of some three hundred English. Many 
 good English families wintered at Pau in those days : it had then its 
 pack of foxhounds, and the English hunted in pink. Now it is 
 more a place of American resort. Lord and Lady St. Levan were 
 wintering at Pau, with whom I had much talk about St. Michael's 
 Mount and Cornwall. 
 
 Lunching one day with Sir Hedworth and Lady Elizabeth 
 Williamson, I met Princess Amelie of Schleswig-Holstein (aunt of 
 the Empress of Germany, and sister of Prince Christian), with whom 
 I had much conversation about the Kaiser and Berlin. She was 
 much pleased to find that I knew her nephew, the German Emperor. 
 She spoke of him in such affectionate terms, as a good, right- 
 minded man, " such a good Christian," as she expressed it. I said I 
 had always thought that of him. She said, " I am so very glad that 
 you like him, he has never been really understood in England. He 
 would have liked your sermon this morning ; I have heard him say 
 so many things which you said as to individual responsibility." She 
 spoke of the Emperor's boys so very warmly and kindly. The Crown 
 Prince she described as so nice and so good. When I told her that 
 I was going to Copenhagen this autumn by Kiel she said gravely, 
 " Kiel is my castle ; Prince Heinrich lives in it now, and is altering 
 it all very much. No doubt you will see my cousins, the King of 
 Denmark and Prince John of Gliicksberg." 
 
 One day, after dinner at the St. Levans', Lady St. Levan took me 
 to see her daughter who fell lately, under extraordinary circum-
 
 no CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1889 
 
 stances, from the battlements of St. Michael's Mount and was 
 nearly killed. She was clasping a heavy old stone figure upon the 
 battlements in a gale, when it gave way with her, and she was thrown, 
 still grasping the figure, and therefore adding impetus to her fall, 
 upon the castle slopes below. It was a marvellous escape. 
 
 Upon my return journey to Paris through the Landes, I saw an 
 admirable specimen of a native, dressed in sheepskins, upon his 
 stilts. They walk on stilts, not only because of the water which 
 abounds and cannot penetrate the "alios," but because they could 
 not otherwise see their sheep amongst the dense bruyere. They 
 move about all day on these stilts, knitting. 
 
 On my way I stopped at Tours for confirmation. Here we have 
 a few English, but no church. I visited the old abbey of St. 
 Martin. Only two towers stand of the famous building, the resting- 
 place of so many pilgrims and early Christians on their way to or 
 from Rome. One tower stands at the east, the other at the west end 
 of the great abbey church. All the rest is in ruins, a street now 
 running between the two towers. The Romans, however, are build- 
 ing a fine new church on part of the site of the abbey. In Notre 
 Dame de Riche are two wonderful windows of thirteenth -century 
 glass, the colours exquisite, silver and greens perfect. They are 
 said to be the finest in Europe, and unique. The French took them 
 out and hid them when they thought the Germans were coming in 
 1870. I then went to the cathedral where — being Shrove Tuesday 
 — a service was in progress, the Archbishop being present on his 
 throne. It is a fine building in transitional style. 
 
 Upon the occasion of this visit to Tours I stayed with a Scotch 
 family, the McAlisters, at their pretty chateau, Beaumanoir on the 
 Loire. At dinner Prince Ghika of Roumania's sister told me a 
 wonderful story of her boy, a restless little mortal, who fell out of an 
 express train in Germany, and was found upon the line in no way 
 hurt. One gets here and there glimpses of the Loire chateaux from 
 the rail, but not much ; also of Orleans Cathedral. 
 
 From Paris I travelled to England via Havre, where I confirmed 
 in our very substantial church, which nothing but an earthquake, or 
 the end of the world, could destroy. It cost ;^9ooo. 
 
 I was not long in England before I turned my face again to the 
 Continent. I found Dover in much excitement consequent upon 
 the collision on the previous day, 3 1 March, between the Comfesse 
 de France and the Princesse Henriette. It occurred in a fog.
 
 i889] CONSECRATE ST. GEORGE'S CHURCH m 
 
 the former vessel being cut in two, three passengers, eleven 
 sailors, and the captain being drowned. She blew up almost 
 immediately after the collision occurred. Prince Jerome Bonaparte 
 was on board, escaping unhurt. Upon arrival at Calais, I confirmed 
 in a well-built church, which colour would improve. The large 
 English colony here is an old one; it consists of lace-makers, 
 formerly numbering some three thousand. For forty years, from 
 the peace of 1815 to 1855, these three thousand English were left 
 with no English chaplain to care for them ! 
 
 From Calais I went on to Boulogne, and dedicated the beautiful 
 little church of St. John, of which I had laid the foundation-stone, 
 as already related. Boys from the parish church of Folkestone 
 came over, taking the solos in the anthem, etc. In the afternoon I 
 held a confirmation, followed by two receptions. Then to Paris for 
 the consecration of St. George's Church, which took place in the 
 presence of a large congregation. Lord and Lady Lytton and 
 members of the British Embassy being present, as also the American 
 Ambassador. It is dedicated to St. George, and is also called the 
 Victoria Jubilee Church. At the close of the service, therefore, all 
 stood and sang " God save the Queen." It is a really fine church, 
 and worthy of us. It is higher than St. Etienne du Mont, one of 
 the finest of the Paris churches, and has a stone triforium on three 
 sides; the view eastward from the western triforium is striking. 
 After the service I went out to confirm at Versailles. The Versailles 
 English are partly French, mostly good families, remnants — fast 
 dying out — of the first empire, dowagers of nobility, connected 
 with French families of the best type, very French and courtly in 
 manner. 
 
 Returning to Paris, I confirmed at the Embassy Church, after 
 which I visited the Victoria Home, where comfortable provision is 
 made for old Englishwomen. Some of them are more French than 
 English, having lived many years in France. A Miss Taylor, whose 
 school I visited at Neuilly, told me that near her house— in the 
 Franco-German War — the heaviest fighting took place between the 
 Versailles troops and the Communists. An artillery officer was in 
 charge of the battery out in the street, close to the " Avenue de la 
 grande armee." He was quartered on Miss Taylor, she living in 
 the cellar. One day a shell broke in her presence, carrying off the 
 officer's head ! A cedar stands in her garden. " I saw one day 
 three men lying dead under that tree," she said, " and all the lop of
 
 112 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1889 
 
 the house on this side was carried away." The walls in this part 
 of Paris were then still riddled and scarred with bullets and shells. 
 
 From Neuilly I went to the Embassy, and sat some time with 
 Lady Lytton, talking of Biarritz, from which she had just come. 
 The Queen told her that she had chosen Biarritz as her place of 
 spring residence that year because of the brightness and frequency 
 of sun, but she called it "a surmy Siberia." It is said that when 
 the selection of a place for the Queen's spring residence was being 
 discussed, those who make these arrangements visited Pau to 
 prospect. They stated that they were seeking accommodation for 
 an Indian prince, who was coming with hundreds of servants. 
 Pau, not wanting an Indian prince, said it had not such accommoda- 
 tion. When it became known that it was for the Queen of England 
 there was great regret. She would have been offered the use of the 
 Chateau Henri IV. Lord Lytton was at Versailles with Prince 
 Henry of Battenberg, who was staying at the Embassy, and I was 
 asked to go as late as possible in the afternoon, in the hope that 
 they would have returned. The day concluded with a large dinner 
 at the Grand Hotel, given by Sir R. Wallace, upon the occasion of 
 the consecration of the church. 
 
 The next day I preached in the Embassy Church, and confirmed 
 at Christ Church, Neuilly. In the afternoon I went to see Sir 
 Richard Wallace at his beautiful house, " Bagatelle," in the Bois 
 de Boulogne, which belonged formerly to the Royal Family of 
 France. I found that he had returned to and was staying at his 
 Paris house in Rue Lafitte. I sat some time with him, as 
 he was very anxious to hear all about the proceedings of the 
 previous day. It was a great disappointment to him being unable, 
 through illness, to be present. Sir Richard was a charming, courtly 
 old gentleman, receiving me in the old French style, and leading 
 me with both hands to a chair. He is deeply interested in the 
 Church, for which he has done so much, and assured me that I had 
 only to mention anything further that might be required in con- 
 nexion with it and it should be done. He had been told that I 
 mentioned in my sermon the need of a parish-room and an organ, 
 and said they must be provided. I asked him to act upon the 
 Continental Bishopric Committee, to which he consented, giving 
 ;^5oo towards its endowment In the evening I preached at the 
 newly-consecrated St. George's Church, which, lighted for the 
 service, looked its best.
 
 i889] "THE EMPRESS'S TREE" 113 
 
 There is a tree in the Champs Elysees, which I noticed as being 
 much more forward in foliage than any of the others of the same 
 kind. I was told it is called " the Empress's tree," because she 
 always noticed its early habits. 
 
 From Paris I went to Lille and Croix for confirmation, and thence 
 to Brussels and Bruges for the same purpose, and so back to 
 England.
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 
 Darmstadt and the Grand Duke— Last audience with the Empress Augusta at 
 Baden — Last hours in the Tuileries— Snowed up in June at Zermatt — Pastoral 
 staff stolen — Visit to Empress Frederick at Homburg Castle — Memorial 
 service at her request for the Emperor Frederick — Confirmation of Jewish 
 converts at Amsterdam — The Palace of Charlottenburg — American thanks- 
 giving service at Dresden — Audience with the Grand Duke of Saxe-Weimar — 
 Proposed new church at Weimar— Schiller and Goethe houses— Continental 
 bishopric. 
 
 AGAIN in May of the same year (1889) I crossed the Channel, 
 1\. this time going to Antwerp, where I confirmed in a most de- 
 pressing building, now happily no more. A movement was on foot 
 to build a church, but many years of urging and working were to 
 pass before its accomplishment, as I shall hereafter detail. Going 
 on to Koln, I confirmed there eri route to Coblenz, and thence to 
 Darmstadt, where I confirmed candidates of Darmstadt, Frankfiirt, 
 Baden, Carlsruhe, Homburg, and Wiesbaden. The Grand Duke 
 was not present upon this occasion, being away at the reopening of 
 the restored church at Oppenheim. He wished, however, to see 
 me upon his return at the New Palace. The young Hofmarschal 
 who received me, a tall, handsome, courteous young German, told 
 me that he had accompanied the Grand Duke to England the 
 previous year, and had gone round the Land's End in the royal 
 yacht to the Clyde, where the Grand Duke was present with the 
 Queen at the opening of the Glasgow Exhibition. He seemed 
 much struck with the voyage up the west coast and with the shipping 
 life of the Clyde, referring especially to the American liners, the City 
 of Paris and the City of New York. He took me into the room 
 which I always call Princess Alice's room : it is so English in appear- 
 ance. The Duke received me cordially in his hearty way, and, 
 sitting down, we talked of the church at Oppenheim, his presence at 
 the reopening of which, he said, had prevented his being present at the 
 confirmation. He spoke of it as well worth seeing — a small Cologne 
 
 114
 
 1889] LAST VISIT TO THE EMPRESS AUGUSTA 115 
 
 Cathedral. It had been much injured by invasions and wars, but 
 was now beautifully reconstructed. He referred, with regret, to the 
 diminishing number of English at Darmstadt. When I told him 
 that I was to be in Copenhagen in July, and passing through Kiel 
 hoped to pay my respects to Prince Henry and his daughiur. 
 Princess Irene, he said they would not be there ; he would be away 
 with his fleet, accompanying his brother, the Emperor, to England, 
 and she would be with him at Darmstadt. He told me of his 
 journey to Russia, from which he had just returned, to arrange— it 
 was supposed — with the Czar and Czarina the marriage of his 
 daughter with the Czarewitch. The Grand Duke is always most 
 kind and friendly, and seems really pleased to show his interest in 
 England and the English. 
 
 Going on to Baden, I stayed with Mr. Maynard, who had been 
 tutor to the Prince Imperial, and who always had a fund of interest- 
 ing stories connected with that period of his life. The great heat 
 prevented the Empress Augusta from attending the service on the 
 Sunday when I preached, but she wished to see me. After the 
 confirmation in the afternoon I went to see the Empress, the trusty 
 old Baron von Knesebeck being in attendance. I found Her 
 Majesty sitting in a small drawing-room with the great white and 
 gilt arm-chair as usual arranged for me opposite her own. She has 
 much changed since I last saw her, looking in extreme old age and 
 feebleness. She opened the conversation by saying slowly and 
 solemnly, " What great and sad changes have taken place since 
 I last saw you, such sorrows, such terrible sorrows." I said that I 
 had felt so much for her through them all, and told her how deep 
 and universal the sorrow was in England. She spoke much and at 
 length upon her sorrows, being deeply touched in relating them. 
 She asked me to give her an account of my Church work in 
 Germany in which she took such great interest. Did it succeed? 
 She went on to speak much upon religious matters ; eagerly, 
 earnestly, and continuously she spoke on this subject, repeating 
 what she had told me before that " Good Queen Adelaide," as sl»e 
 called her, begged she would not forsake the English Church. 
 "Can I do anything for the Baden church? Tell me if I can ; I should 
 like to do anything that is wanted." And this, after having the 
 previous day sent ^40 to the Baden Church Fund. I thanked her 
 and said she had always been such a good and liberal friend to our 
 Church, but that I did not think we needed anything. She assured
 
 ii6 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1889 
 
 me that she was much vexed to have been unable to get to church 
 that day, she would so much have liked it ; but she said sadly and 
 impressively, " I could not go, I am not able to go." She then 
 inquired after my children, repeating what she had said before, that 
 if, as I had contemplated, I should send a daughter to Berlin for 
 education she would look after her. " Yes, I would indeed look 
 after her and be kind to her — only let me know if you do send her." 
 Then back to the details of her sorrows. She spoke very sadly 
 of her grandson. Prince Ludwig. I told her how well he looked in 
 the Abbey at the Jubilee. She said he was such a good boy ; that 
 there was a connexion between the three sad deaths, "my great 
 husband, my noble son, my dear grandson, they were great ex- 
 amples.'' I said great examples were set us to imitate. She said 
 earnestly that she tried to do the duties which were left to her, but 
 found it hard, very hard. I happened to drop a German word or 
 two in my reply, upon which she went off at once in German, so 
 low and feeble that she seemed almost speaking to herself. I then 
 for the third time turned to Baron Knesebeck, and said that I was 
 tiring the Empress, and ought not to stay longer. Each time she had 
 asked me not to go, assuring me that I did not tire her. I now 
 moved, however, and in kissing her hand, she held mine in hers, 
 looked at me with that painful, almost startled look which her face 
 wore at times, and said very seriously, " Pray for me, that I may do 
 the duties that I have to do, and be sure you come again and see 
 me whenever you are in Germany." I never saw her again. A 
 kind, humble, thoughtful Christian woman. Would that we had 
 more of them upon the Continent and elsewhere. 
 
 When sitting out with Mr. Maynard in his hayfield that hot, 
 thundery evening he told me that upon the news of Sedan reaching 
 Paris, when the mob was howling round the Tuileries and en- 
 deavouring to storm the great iron gates facing the Arc de I'Etoile, 
 the Court officials, princes, and generals, who were in the palace 
 about the Empress's person, were actually playing draughts, and 
 talking of what they were going to do that day as if nothing was 
 happening. I think it was Prince Murat who said to him, " I shall 
 go to Corsica this evening." "Gentlemen," he said, "do you know 
 what is happening? There will be a revolution before long and a 
 republic proclaimed ; your lives are in imminent danger." But they 
 either would not or could not see it, and took little notice of what 
 he said. The Empress was the only one apparently who saw the
 
 1889] FREIBURG— BERNE— LAUSANNE ,,7 
 
 extreme gravity of things, and went from room to room distracted 
 with anxiety and alarm. Her escape from the Tuileries and flight 
 from Paris I have already detailed in a former chapter. 
 
 From Baden I went to Freiburg for a confirmation. We were 
 hoping to build a church here. The Government architect got us 
 out a plan, but the Archbishop of Freiburg refused to let us use it. 
 He said that it had been carried out in his own diocese, and he 
 could not permit us to use it also. This seemed very arbitrary; 
 but he had that character. I asked if there was no appeal to the 
 Government, and it was feared there was not. The plans were to be 
 modified, and then submitted to the Archbishop again. I wondered 
 what the Emperor would say if he could be reached. 
 
 From Freiburg I went to Berne, staying with Mr. Leveson- 
 Gower, attached to the Legation, I received his little son into the 
 Church in the cathedral of Berne, the old dean being present. 
 Mr. Leveson-Gower wished the additional name of Clarence to be 
 given him, being descended from the Duke of that name, — said to 
 have met his end in a butt of malmsey wine — but as the names of 
 Osbert Charles Gresham had been already given him at his baptism, 
 he had to be content with them ! Mr. Leveson-Gower was taking 
 much interest in the sepulchres of our fathers in the Berne ceme- 
 tery. Several stones record mountain accidents. Mrs. Arbuthnot 
 — the bride who was killed by lightning near Murren — lies in this 
 cemetery, the stone upon which she was sitting at the time lying 
 over her grave. Mr. Leveson-Gower took me to see a church near 
 the Rathhaus built about the fourteenth century, but never quite 
 completed, and never probably used as a church. It was cut up 
 into floors and used as a lumber store. He was anxious to obtain 
 this as a gift from the town, spend ^1000 upon it, and put it into 
 usable order as our Anglican church. Mrs. (now Lady) Scott gave a 
 reception at the Legation, Mr. Scott being absent at Berlin, attending 
 the Samoa Conference. 
 
 From Berne I went to Lausanne to settle a Church difficulty, and 
 on to Geneva for confirmation. I took this opportunity of going on 
 to Lyons for confirmation, this being a chaplaincy lying much out 
 of my usual orbit, but in former days an important one, as connected 
 with the large English silk interests of that city. The run through 
 the Jura to Bellegarde is very grand. The situation of Lyons at the 
 junction of the Saone with the Rhone is exceedingly fine, and the 
 surrounding scenery striking.
 
 ii8 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1889 
 
 Returning to Switzerland, I confirmed at Territet, and then ran 
 up to Zermatt for a couple of days, getting into a snowstorm of such 
 severity for June that I was in danger of being snowed up. Upon 
 this journey I was robbed at Territet, by Italians, of a piece of my 
 baggage containing my pastoral staff — a great loss — and with other 
 things, irreparable. The British Legation at Berne reported the 
 robbery to the Federal Government, which very considerately tele- 
 graphed the loss to the Swiss railway officials, requesting them to 
 watch the frontier at Geneva, Brigue, Romanshorn, PontarUer, and 
 Basel ; but all to no avail. 
 
 I travelled from Switzerland direct to Homburg. The Empress 
 Frederick was then living at the Castle of Homburg. Upon my 
 arrival she sent a kind invitation to dinner. The Empress entered 
 the drawing-room in the deep mourning style of Germany, attended 
 by Princesses Sophie and Margarita and the ladies of the Court. 
 The pleasant smile was still there, but much saddened ; indeed, the 
 whole fashion of the face was changed by grief. She apologized for 
 being a little late, but her daughter the Princess of Meiningen had 
 only just arrived. She introduced her daughters, and then said at 
 once very sadly, " Oh ! what a terrible time of sorrow and suffering 
 it has been since I last saw you, too dreadful, too terrible ! " She 
 seemed as if she could not defer the subject till after dinner, but 
 must pour it all out at once. I could only express my deep sym- 
 pathy, telling her what a Sunday it was in London churches after 
 the sad news reached us, and how all deeply mourned his loss. 
 •* Yes," she said, " he was loved in England, and he loved English- 
 men." She asked when I was last in Berlin. I told her that our 
 trains crossed in November at Stendal, when she was on the way to 
 England and I on the way to Berlin. "Yes," she replied, "of 
 course I remember now, and you went out to Potsdam and saw his 
 coffin. It is only placed there temporarily ; I am building a 
 mausoleum." I told the Empress that I had seen it. She continued, 
 "I used to go to that Uttle chapel, where the coffin stands, every day 
 till I left for England. Oh, it was all so very dreadful, such a time 
 of sorrow that I can't tell you." I said we used to remember him 
 through his illness in our own family prayers. " How kind, how 
 thoughtful," she said, "and you wrote so kindly when I was at 
 San Remo. We loved Italy ; we have had such happy days there ; 
 but now all is so changed." As we passed into the dining-room the 
 Empress's daughter the Princess of Meiningen came in, to whom
 
 1889] VISIT TO THE EMPRESS FREDERICK i ir, 
 
 she presented me. I sat between the Empress and Princess 
 Sophie. The Empress was a great talker ; she talked of my visit 
 to Darmstadt, asking if I had seen her sister's grave there. I spoke 
 of it as a quiet, peaceful, beautiful spot. I said that I had lately 
 been to Baden and seen the Empress Augusta there. She said she 
 had heard of my visit. The Empress spoke much of Berlin and of 
 Switzerland, from whence I had just come. She knew Zermatt, 
 having been there with her husband, and had walked up to the 
 Riffel and into the Corner Grat. Speaking of the strange death-like 
 pallor which overspreads the Alps when the sun leaves them, she 
 turned to me and said, lowering her voice, " It is what one sees on 
 the face " and then stopped, and one knew what she was think- 
 ing of. She talked much of the Jubilee. I said it was the last 
 time I saw her; that the bishops sat exactly opposite the Queen, her 
 children and grandchildren, and had therefore a good place for seeing 
 everything. She spoke of it as a wonderful day and a wonderful sight. 
 As instancing her love for England and the English, I was talking to 
 Count Seckendorf about a railway accident. He asked if the 
 accident took place in England. The Empress, in her impulsive 
 way, exclaimed with much warmth, " In England, indeed no ! 
 English guards would not have acted so carelessly, you may be 
 sure; such an accident would be impossible in England." As soon 
 as we returned to the drawing-room she took me aside and began to 
 tell me about the Emperor's last days and death. " He couldn't 
 speak at all at last; could only write on little pieces of paper. 
 When the King of Sweden came to see us a few days before my 
 dear husband's death he said to me, ' I do feel so weak and ill I 
 don't know how I can see the King.' I told him that the King 
 would not expect it. ' Yes,' he said, ' I must try,' and he got up and 
 managed to be dressed, putting on all his uniform, even to his 
 decorations, and went through it all. And then afterwards he just 
 drooped, and seemed to have exhausted all his little strength. Oh ! 
 we could have kept him," she exclaimed earnestly, " we could have 
 kept him a few months longer, I know we could. Now to-morrow 
 is the anniversary of his funeral. He was laid to rest on the 
 anniversary of the Battle of Waterloo. Could you, would it he in 
 proper Church order to ask you to give me a service in memory of 
 that day, or am I asking what I ought not ? " I replied that of 
 course I should be quite ready and glad to do as she wished. " Any 
 hour that you like," she said, "only name it— 8, 9, 10, 11, m. 1
 
 120 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1889 
 
 begged Her Majesty to fix her own hour and choose the hymns. 
 She selected "Brief Life," "Abide with Me," and "Thy Will be 
 Done," saying that they were all favourites. " But one thing I want 
 you to do, don't let it be known ; there need be no congregation, 
 and I don't want a crowd outside." I said I would take care that 
 Her Majesty's wishes were attended to. She might leave all arrange- 
 ments to me. I then asked her to excuse me, upon the ground of 
 seeing the chaplain that night and making all necessary arrange- 
 ments. So we parted. 
 
 At ten o'clock the next morning the Empress Frederick, with the 
 Grand Duchess of Saxe-Meiningen and her little daughter, with the 
 Princesses Margarita and Sophie and the Court in attendance, 
 arrived at the church, and took their places in the royal pew. The 
 doors were locked upon their entrance, and no one was admitted, 
 indeed, no one knew of the service ; all had been kept, according to 
 her wish, secret. The service consisted of selections from the 
 burial service, special psalms, and a special lesson, " The souls of 
 the righteous," etc. I then gave a short address upon the resurrec- 
 tion of the body, the service occupying three-quarters of an hour. At 
 its close I returned to the vestry, where a message came to me from 
 the Empress that she wished to see me before leaving the church. 
 She had been much moved by the service, and was still deeply 
 affected. She grasped my hand, saying again and again, " I am so 
 grateful to you for this ; it has all been so full of comfort, thank you 
 again so much for all your kindness." I said that Her Majesty 
 must always command me to act as her chaplain whenever I was 
 within call. 
 
 Travelling through the night after this service, I reached Spa in 
 the early morning of the next day, confirmed in the afternoon, and 
 left for England via Antwerp and Harwich. 
 
 Our second annual Conference of Chaplains was held this year at 
 Copenhagen, but I was not well enough to attend it. 
 
 On my last journey this year I crossed to Rotterdam, and on to 
 Amsterdam, where I confirmed the Jewish converts in their own 
 church and language. The church was crammed. At the close of 
 the service a remarkable incident occurred. An elderly member of 
 the congregation led off with "Praise God from Whom all blessings 
 flow" in Dutch, which was taken up with intensest enthusiasm by the 
 whole congregation. Mr. Adler, the chaplain, was much struck by 
 this spontaneous burst of feeling, and said it was very seldom
 
 i889] AMERICAN THANKSGIVING SERMON 121 
 
 exhibited. He remembered witnessing it at a great gathering upon 
 a special occasion some time ago, but only that once. A leading 
 young Dutchman, a citizen of Amsterdam, said to me that day in 
 the course of conversation, " England is the bulwark of Christianity. 
 If Christianity were to fail in England, the whole world would suffer 
 by it." He told me that the two political parties in Holland were 
 divided entirely upon the religious question. The Liberals do not 
 believe in a Revelation, they are freethinkers. The anti-revolu- 
 tionists do. 
 
 From Amsterdam I went to the Hague and confirmed. The 
 collection of birds at the Hague Zoological gardens is superb ; 
 they are brought from Java, the Philippines, Sumatra, etc. ; the 
 cleanliness and order of the cages is perfect. 
 
 On this visitation through North Germany I confirmed at Hanover 
 and Hamburg, and thence travelled to Berlin, where I confirmed 
 and preached. In conversation with Lady Ermyntrude Malet at 
 the Embassy about my recent visit to the Empress Frederick at 
 Homburg, she also thought the Empress very much altered, attribut- 
 ing the change in her appearance entirely to sorrow through those 
 two terrible years of nursing and anxiety. I went out one day to 
 Charlottenburg Palace, and saw from the outside the room in which 
 the Emperor Frederick slept during his stay there upon his return 
 from Italy, before being moved to Potsdam. I also looked into the 
 orangery up and down which he used to walk that sad, suffering 
 spring when the weather did not allow of his going out. The palace 
 lies on the edge of endless woodland drives interspersed with lakes, 
 where he took driving exercise when the weather permitted. Our 
 Queen, when she was here in April, 1888, occupied the long, low 
 wing amongst the trees on the extreme right. It had been long 
 disused, and was redecorated and furnished for her reception. 
 
 From Berlin I went to Dresden, where, upon this occasion, I 
 preached the American Thanksgiving Day sermon in the American 
 church. The service opened with " God Save our Nation," to the 
 air of our National Anthem. Then "Home, Sweet Home." I 
 preached an historical sermon upon the persevering energy of the 
 American nation from the days of the Pilgrim Fathers, and touched 
 upon our political errors which severed the two nations. The con- 
 gregation were rapt in their attention, and expressed afterwards 
 unfeigned gratification at what I had said. I also confirmed and 
 preached in our church of All Saints. Upon leaving Dresden I
 
 122 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1889 
 
 visited the chaplaincies of Leipzig and Weimar for confirmation 
 and other work. At Weimar, the Grand Duke wishing to see me, 
 sent his carriage, and I went to the Schloss situated at a little 
 distance outside the town. We discussed the position of the new 
 English church, in which, as already stated, he took a very great 
 interest. I asked him to give a freehold site for the purpose, and 
 we would then raise the necessary funds if he would head the 
 subscription Ust. I asked him to write a letter expressing his wishes 
 as to the new church, and said that I would draw up an appeal if he 
 would sign and head it with a contribution. This I did next morn- 
 ing, he promptly returning it signed, heading it with a handsome 
 gift, and affixing a letter commending the scheme. Being the 
 Empress Augusta's brother, we talked of her and her state of 
 health. The Duchess is sister of the King of Holland, and we 
 talked naturally much of that country also. 
 
 The sights of Weimar are not many, but no visitor leaves it 
 without seeing the Schiller and Goethe houses. Schiller's is a 
 pretty little old-fashioned building, severely German, situated in 
 the main street, and very clean. Upstairs one is shown his sitting- 
 room left just as he last used it. His card-table, plain little sofa, 
 two glass cases full of his things, cups and saucers, ring, and 
 knick-knacks of all kinds. Then to his bedroom, with its plain httle 
 wooden bed on which he died. At the head of it is a plaster cast 
 taken after death, set round with ribbons — as the manner of the 
 Germans is — tributes of respect. Some pages in his own hand- 
 writing; and the first playbill for the Weimar theatre in his own 
 hand. Also a part of his William Tell. In a small inner room 
 stands the table at which he wrote William Tell ; in the midst 
 of it is an apparatus invented by himself for raising and lowering 
 the desk. 
 
 Then to Goethe's house. It is plain, large, and ugly, and I did 
 not go into it as there is not much to see. Their statues are in 
 the Theater Platz in the centre of the town. They stand together 
 on the same pedestal. Goethe is looking straight before him with 
 a self-satisfied air, characteristic of himself; Schiller, the idealist, 
 looks to Heaven with a far-away expression, stamping the man. 
 Gotha is but a short journey from Weimar. Here also I confirmed 
 and addressed a meeting, as I did in every place, on behalf of the 
 Bishopric Fund. From Gotha I travelled, via Hanover, through 
 the night to Rotterdam en route for England.
 
 i889] CONTINENTAL BISHOPRIC 123 
 
 I have not repeated that at each chaplaincy visited 1 was in ihc 
 habit of bringing the Continental Bishopric to the notice of the 
 English and American residents. If I did I should repeat the state- 
 ment to wearisomeness. But I did do so, through those early years, 
 until I found that all the work was left for me to do, and that 
 nothing was done by the committee and next to nothing by the 
 chaplaincies. I worked for this Fund until nearly ;^ 10,000 was 
 raised, and worked very hard too, leaving no opportunity un- 
 embraced to increase it. I then thought, since I was not working 
 for my own interest but entirely for my successors in office, that I 
 might leave the balance to be raised by the chaplaincies and others 
 more immediately concerned. I have been very much disappointed 
 at the lack of interest shown in this Fund. The initial mistake was 
 that the required capital should have been raised before the appoint- 
 ment of a bishop, as is required in the case of an English bishopric. 
 As an evidence of this, the Empress Augusta, to whose notice I had 
 brought the Fund and who knew how greatly interested I was in its 
 welfare, caused Baron von Knesebeck to write me the following : — 
 
 " I am ordered to express Her Majesty's sympathy with the pro- 
 ject of raising a Continental Bishopric Endowment Fund, as the 
 Empress has not been without perceiving the advantages to be 
 derived from the establishment of a Continental Bishopric for the 
 British Chaplains and British Communities abroad. Her Majesty's 
 constant interest for the latter, as promoting good relations and 
 reciprocal understanding between the English and German nations, 
 has already induced the Empress to remain in connexion with the 
 Anglican Church in different places abroad, and the Empress wishes 
 to assist the endeavour for the constitution of the above-mentioned 
 Fund by a contribution of ^50."
 
 CHAPTER XIV 
 
 The Polish frontier at Alexandrowo — Three hundred thousand of Russia's picked 
 troops — Warsaw — Leave from Government necessary to hold confirmation — 
 Warsaw, Minsk, Smolensk, and Brest-Litewski, a quadrilateral of immense 
 resistance — Borodino — Moscow— New English church — The Kremlin — New 
 cathedral of St. Saviour — Visit to the Lamsdorfs' palace at Kuskove — 
 Hillocks, tons, and acres of mushrooms — Two Ash-Wednesdays within twelve 
 days — Trytyakoff' s picture gallery — The cottage of the last Council on the 
 Borodino road — The Romanoff (or Boyar) house — The Kremlin : its palaces 
 and their endless ramifications — Moscow of the present day much as it was in 
 1743 — Mrs. Stratton, the old English nurse at the Winter Palace, Petersburg 
 — The Anitchkoff Palace — " I never passed these charmed gates before" — 
 Codex Sinaiticus — Fortress of Schliisselburg on Lake Ladoga — The Crimea 
 and Livadia. 
 
 FEBRUARY 18, 1890, 1 left England for my first visit to Poland. 
 A small stream serves as the frontier beyond the last German 
 station of Oslotchin, sentinels with bayonets fixed standing upon 
 scaffolding close to the line, reached by a heavy wooden staircase. 
 Polish log-huts succeed the German style of house immediately we 
 cross the frontier, one style looking at the other across the small 
 stream. Polish peasants also are dressed differently from German 
 peasants. A Polish woman in a red dress and red wrappings about 
 her head, blown by the icy wind, stands upon a high embankment, 
 and forms a fitting introduction to Poland, which looks physically, 
 as it is politically, dark, wild, and dreary; interesting, however, 
 from the mere fact that it is Poland, and Russian Poland. 
 
 Alexandrowo is the first station across the border. The relations 
 between officials and their subordinates are different to those in 
 Germany. There every superior officer returns the inferior's salute ; 
 here the inferiors bow low enough, but their superiors pass them 
 with superb indifference. This is a strictly-guarded frontier, as the 
 rows of cutlasses upon the walls of the approaches of the searching 
 halls indicate. But as I am a Briton, and not a suspect, my things 
 are not even opened ; my passport is returned with a polite bow, 
 
 124
 
 i89o] THE MILITARY SITUATION ,25 
 
 and I pass through to the waiting-rooms. In a box lighted hy dijj 
 candles sat a dirty old Jew, from whom I got a little less than nine 
 roubles for each £\ English, and I was told by a Russian oflicer 
 who spoke English that I ought to have got at least ten ; but he 
 came to me afterwards and said he thought upon consideration that 
 I had got present value. I didn't. A dead, uninteresting, flat 
 country of endless tundras to the horizon, as is ever the landscape of 
 a Russian journey. 
 
 The Times of 13 February had an interesting article upon "The 
 Military Situation of North Europe." " Armies of men stand scowling 
 into one another's eyes across a frontier marked by a few parti- 
 coloured posts. It has been said with some truth that the (Jerman 
 system is a system of troops and railways. To be in a position to 
 mobilize rapidly vast masses of men thoroughly equipped and sup- 
 plied, and to be able to concentrate these masses at will on the 
 threatened frontier with the utmost celerity for offensive war, re- 
 mains now, as always, the great aim and object of the organizing 
 staff at Berlin. The spirit of all later transformations tends to make 
 the army ready for the field at any moment, and at any season 
 of the year. Each corps knows beforehand where its concentration 
 will take place in case of a rupture with a foreign Power ; and the 
 frontiers are divided, conformably with military and political con- 
 siderations, into forty-seven different theatres of war. In each of 
 these, points have been chosen for magazines of food and depots 
 of material, and where six days' provisions for the whole force will be 
 assembled in three days." How all these frontier fears have 
 vanished with the results of the Far Eastern war ! The fort- 
 resses of Warsaw, Minsk, Smolensk, and Brest-Litewski are very 
 strong indeed, and form a quadrilateral on this frontier of immense 
 resistance. No less than 300,000 of Russia's picked troops garrison 
 Poland on the German and Austrian frontiers ; of these 30,000 are 
 Circassians, the finest troops in the Empire. Many Poles are sent 
 to the Caucasus to be trained, and are then returned to their own 
 country. 
 
 I found on arriving at Warsaw that my old schoolfellow at Bury 
 St. Edmunds, Count Joseph Zamoiski, died here ten years ago. 
 He was a member of a very old and distinguished Polish family, 
 whose name is a passport throughout Poland. The family gave 
 me a print portrait of him, in which I easily traced the boy's in the 
 man's face. He was very rich, never married, and gave all his
 
 126 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1S90 
 
 wealth to assist his fellow-countrymen who might be in distress, 
 pohtically or otherwise. In consequence he was worshipped by the 
 Poles. 
 
 In Poland and Russia pictures of the goods to be had within are 
 placed over, the shops for the guidance of the ignorant who cannot 
 read ; and it is the few who can. Warsaw is a large and busy city ; 
 its streets are wide, but badly paved. The gutters are kept from 
 freezing and blocking with ice by old women armed with brooms, 
 who are for ever sweeping, to make the filthy ooze move on. The 
 ground is so flat that it could not move without this encouragement. 
 In a dreary snowstorm a funeral passed along the street in which I 
 was staying. The coffin was white and gilt, followed by a consider- 
 able procession of mourners mourning most mournfully, chanting a 
 wild, weird music that seemed to accentuate the melancholy of its 
 surroundings. 
 
 The Fanshawes are the leading English people here — Anglo- 
 Polish. When dining with them, Mrs. Fanshawe told me the 
 interesting history of their family connexion with Russia. Her 
 grandfather was Governor of the Crimea and of Kieff, under 
 Catharine II, when the English were highly favoured in Russia. 
 At that time large tracts of land were given by the Crown to 
 the Fanshawe family, upon which they still reside in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Warsaw. Sir Henry White, our Ambassador at 
 Constantinople, was brought up here, working as a clerk in the 
 office of our Consul-General, and here learnt much of what is 
 known as "the Eastern Question," which gained him such dis- 
 tinguished promotion. 
 
 Lunching with Mr. Grant, our Consul-General, I met Princess 
 Radzewill, one of the oldest of Polish families. A fine allee stretches 
 for two miles from the great Roman Uniat church at one end to the 
 palace of the King of Poland on the other, and is lined with good 
 houses. This is the only attractive or livable part of Warsaw. 
 Here at Warsaw we have no church ; service is held in a room at 
 the chaplain's house. A good many English governesses reside in 
 the families of Russian officers in this great garrison, who form the 
 main element in the congregation. For every function, such as 
 confirmation, formal leave has to be obtained from the Government. 
 In going to the Moscow station I drove across the Vistula, which 
 was full of large hummock-ice. The river had endeavoured to flow on 
 and on, pushing these blocks before it, till each channel froze up in
 
 '890] RUSSIAN SCENERY ,27 
 
 turn, and one great rough piled-up mass of l)lue and while ice was 
 the result. The view back upon Warsaw Ironi I'raga is rather 
 grand, the old Polish palace and fortress standing in a somewhat 
 commanding position on the high river bank. A bright sun was 
 shining, and all looked really fine. There is a very bitter feeling 
 here in Poland towards Russia. Some few years ago a law was 
 passed by which it was enacted that no foreigner may buy land in 
 Poland, and the oppression of the inhabitants of the Baltic provinces 
 adds greatly to the general discontent. It is very short-sighted also 
 on the part of Russia thus to treat the Finns, for hitherto there have 
 been no more loyal subjects, living peaceably and contentedly under 
 Russian rule. There is much exaggeration no doubt, and there are 
 two sides of the question. Russia is, after all, only giving back to 
 Poland the measure which Poland endeavoured to give Russia in 
 the days when Sweden threatened Russia, and was abetted by 
 Poland. Go further back in Russo-Polish history, and we find 
 Poland a hard master to Russia. 
 
 The train rumbles along over these mighty plains hour after hour, 
 day and night, till I wonder how any remnant of Napoleon's army 
 ever got back to Paris again. These steppes and forests, scorched 
 with frosts for nine months in the year and by the sun for the 
 remaining three, are weird enough to pass even in a railway train ; 
 snow and ice, ice and snow all around, nothing else. What must 
 they have been for the wretched, starved, frost-bitten army in its 
 retreat, harassed in the rear by a hostile and enraged foe ? 
 
 Travelling through the night from Warsaw to Moscow I opened 
 my eyes at Minsk, one of Russia's strongest fortified positions in 
 this part of their country. The villages are picturesque with their 
 long poles high in the air, weighted at the end for drawing water 
 from the wells. They look like harbours full of ships with bare 
 masts. All is absolutely colourless until evening, when the sunsets 
 are glorious, the whole horizon glowing like a great pink rose, resting 
 blossom downward upon the snow. At Smolensk we struck the direct 
 route of Napoleon's advance upon and retreat from Moscow, still 
 marked by frequent graves of the French, who fell in thousands 
 along the wayside, overwhelmed by the snows of that terrible 
 winter. 
 
 Another night in the train brought us in the morning to Borodino. 
 One closes one's eyes night after night and opens them morning 
 after morning upon precisely the same sort of country — forest and
 
 128 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1890 
 
 steppe, steppe and forest. A young Polish ofificer, my fellow- 
 traveller, told me that he was on his way to Omsk in Siberia, being 
 particular to add in French " en service." At that time he could 
 not get further by rail than Nishni-Novgorod, then up the Volga and 
 a tributary into Perm, and thence by sledge to his destination. He 
 thought the railway would be completed to the Pacific in ten years. 
 The country about Borodino, where the Russians made their last 
 stand against the advancing French, is hilly and wooded, the Boro- 
 dino flowing in picturesque bends through the broken country. 
 
 From Borodino to Moscow is somewhat less than a hundred 
 miles. Arrived there, I was the guest of the chaplain, Mr. Wybergh. 
 On the following Sunday I preached on behalf of the Bishopric 
 Fund. The church was full, many English coming in from the 
 factories round INIoscow. It is a fine building ; a nave, with small 
 apse ; too small. At the west end is a stone gallery over the room 
 in which the shoobs— or furs— of the congregation are hung, a 
 necessary adjunct in all Russian churches. A good parish-room 
 and vestries are attached. On one side stands a really fine tower, 
 built after the style of the parish church of Bolton, in Lancashire, 
 from which place many of the manufacturers came. The propor- 
 tions of the church are not good. If the apse was lengthened, 
 aisles added, the gallery removed, and the shoob-room thrown into 
 the church — all which is possible — a really good church would be 
 the result. It has cost over ^20,000, and is being filled with good 
 glass by Ward and Hughes. 
 
 In the afternoon I walked to the Kremlin, which I had not seen 
 for thirty years. I then looked at it all with the shallow eye of a 
 lad, for I was at Cambridge. I could now dissect and digest it 
 with the practised eye of an old traveller, and it is marvellous 
 beyond description. The summer colouring of Moscow is much 
 richer than the winter, when all the marvellously bizarre roofs of 
 gold, silver, yellow, green, blue, every colour under heaven, are 
 covered more or less with snow, and present a uniform whiteness 
 to the eye, the colouring only now and then appearing. Sun is 
 indispensable at Moscow, and as a rule the winters are brilUantly, 
 dazzlingly sunny. A wonderful centre of glorious architecture and 
 colour is the Kremlin — walls, towers, gateways of all styles, shapes, 
 sizes — mostly the work of the Tartars. Domes, cupolas, cathedrals, 
 churches, palaces, and such a view down over the city, of which it 
 is the jewelled centre; one swelling sea of towers, domes, cupolas,
 
 ««9o] MOSCOW'S NEW CATHEDR.\L ,,9 
 
 almost as far as the cje caa stretch. Tnt Holy Gate, ^s all the 
 travelling world knows, must not be passed through wi-^ covered 
 head— even the Czar uncovexs— and a great bowl comes from the 
 guards around it if they do not see you uncorer as you appnnch. 
 The Russians say that when the Frendi guns were pointed at it, 
 they refused to do their duty, and the Kronlin was saved in coo- 
 sequence of the sacred picture of die Redeemer which hangs m 
 fixnt of it As I passed through an old Russian officer fdl down 
 upon the ice-covered, abominaUe pavemenL He went up to the 
 guards, and blew them vp with terrific ezpletiTes (or not dearing it 
 away ; I thought he would have knocked them down. Evwy ooe 
 swears at every ooe in Moscow, fior sledges and pM<>ttTi»wf aD 
 crowd along hig^edy-pigj^edly, and are fior ever kiwckii^ ooe 
 another over. But all ends in *'nilchevo," "it doesn't matter.* 
 The streets are vile and vile^ kept, truly Oriental in their petploii^ 
 inequality. A new cathedral of the Savioor has been bmUii^ far 
 the last forty yeais ootade the waDs of the Kremlin, as a memorial 
 and thank-ofering for ddiverance from the French. It is said to 
 have cost already ^^'5,000,000. Havii^ a letter of introdnctioo to 
 the Lamsdcx^ I called at tfadr town boose. Tbe Coontes was 
 at hmne. She invited me to go out to their palace at Kooskora, 
 and ^Mnd the daf there with her and her &tfaer. 
 
 I confirmed a considerate nmnber of candidates here, sevexal 
 boys wearing the uniform of the Rus^n Govenmieot schools, 
 which is handsome. We endeavoored to drive oat to the Spazrow 
 Hills, from idudi a good view of Moscow is ofatained, but socfa a 
 blinding snoi^torm came on That, after battling with it far sooie 
 time, we had to turn and flee before iL So I visited the new 
 cathedral instead. It is a severe Gxedc cross, sooiewhat too square 
 to please the eye, and painfriHy white. The many magnificent 
 alto-rdief sculptures also in white stooe mi^ihti vith advantage, 
 have been in bronze, and woold have produced the desired cootra s t 
 of colour. The great dome is of beaten gold, "exceeding mj^nifical,'' 
 like Solomon's Temple. The interior is adorned with s p len d i d 
 marUes, about tea di&rent kinds being employed, soote from Russia, 
 sane fr«n other coontzies. The Russian red poqAyry is freely 
 used, also yellow marUe from Sena. Tbe shrines are vay costly, 
 many of solid silver, set with stones. The (HCtures and frescoes, all 
 by Russian artists, are very fine. Tbe miKic at this Lenten season, 
 w&en Litanies are largely used, is solemn and inexpressibly sad.
 
 I30 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1890 
 
 The water supply of Moscow is very bad. There are wells in the 
 town, but the water is only used for washing purposes. The drink- 
 ing water is brought in by carts from the neighbourhood, and 
 poured into great stone conduits placed about the city. From these 
 conduits it is taken in barrels on sledges to the houses. When the 
 weather is cold it is difficult to get it out of these reservoirs before 
 it freezes. The holes at the top of these barrels cork themselves 
 with gigantic cakes of ice, formed by the water flipping out as the 
 sledges tumble along over the wretched roadways. Things were very 
 bad in this direction then ; they may be better now. 
 
 On 25 February I drove out in a sledge to the Lamsdorfs' palace 
 at Kouskova. The route lay along the Moskva, and through the 
 markets which line the banks. The Russians live mostly upon 
 mushroom soup through Lent, and the miles of mushrooms piled 
 everywhere along the markets are quite a sight. The country 
 people bring them in by wagon-loads tied up in circles. Hundreds 
 upon hundreds of sledges are packed with them ; the pavements are 
 choked with them; hillocks, tons, acres of mushrooms. In the 
 outskirts of the city, which are very large, spreading over a vast area, 
 we pass the railway station for Sebastopol and the Caspian. Here 
 along the Une stand miles of huge trucks carrying enormous 
 cylinders of oil from Baku on the Caspian, making the snow black 
 and hideous as it is ladled out into millions of barrels upon sledges. 
 Each cylinder is valved to prevent explosions. This oil is burnt 
 upon the railway engines. In the same direction lies the station 
 for Siberia and the Far East. The houses gradually become 
 smaller as the purlieus of the city are reached— for there is no "West 
 End" to Moscow — more bizarre also in colour till colour ceases, 
 and they take the form of mere Oriental pigsties. Jackdaws and 
 grey crows all around, above, below, looking about for what they 
 can get, so tame that you can touch them. The great white snow 
 track— for there is no road— is full of sledges coming in from the 
 country with all manner of quaint, mysterious produce piled up 
 and protected with canvas. In summer typhoid and diphtheria rage 
 in Moscow and Russian cities generally, for there is no drainage 
 whatever. Hence no one who can get away stays in a Russian town 
 in summer— all fly to the country, to small, roughly-built wooden 
 houses let out for the summer months. 
 
 Turning off" the great main track to Siberia, upon which we had 
 been travelling since we left Moscow, and which is full of large
 
 i89o] VISIT TO THE LAMSDORFS' PALACE ,3, 
 
 holes,— chasms more correctly,— we made a dash up a Ijank, and 
 took apparently, for all was deep in snow, to the open country. We 
 plunged into a drift on the other side of the said bank, and then out 
 of it, and away towards an horizon of large dark woods amongst 
 which lies Kouskova, the northern palace of the Sheramatieffs, one 
 of the most powerful and wealthy families of the Russian nobility. 
 Prince Sheramatieff married Count Lamsdorf's sister. Count 
 Lamsdorf and his daughter the Countess live in the palace, the 
 Sheramatieffs being seldom here, having two other palaces, one in 
 South Russia and another in the Caucasus upon very extensive 
 estates. We had some difificulty in finding our way through the 
 woods to the palace, Russian drivers never knowing anything, or 
 making any further remark when blown up for their stupidity than 
 the everlasting "nitchevo," "it doesn't matter." 
 
 At last, having exhausted all our Russian expletives upon the 
 unfortunate driver, " Glupi " being one of very caustic character, we 
 reached the outlying houses belonging to the estate, all beautifully 
 kept, and most picturesque. The palace now came in sight on the 
 other side of a large lake, frozen of course, and covered with snow. 
 We passed over a bridge and entered shrubberies — not of our 
 western laurel, which here is a greenhouse plant — bounded by the 
 forest, and so on to the house which the Lamsdorfs are now inhabit- 
 ing during the winter, the palace being too cold at this season. 
 Here we were received by the Count and Countess, who welcomed 
 us with true Russian warmth and kindness to Kouskova. To 
 thoroughly overhaul oneself is the first thing to be done after a 
 Russian sledge journey, for the operation is a very uncleanly one, 
 the traveller's face being inevitably covered with dirt and snow 
 thrown up by the horses as they dash along, flinging great lumps of 
 hard snow and frozen earth, not only with loud report against the 
 dashboard, but over it into the traveller's face. 
 
 The rooms in the house are most sumptuous, royalty could not be 
 more splendidly housed. The Czar himself could scarcely have 
 been surrounded with silver toilet apparatus more highly chased 
 and sumptuous than were the appointments of the room into which 
 I was shown. It was here at Kouskova that the SheramatiefTs had 
 received the Czar and Czarina two years before. We had much con- 
 versation at luncheon about Russia and England. The Count and 
 Countess kept strictly to their Lenten fare of fish and mushroom 
 soup, which they asked me to taste. It is like weak ketchup. The
 
 132 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1890 
 
 wine which we drank was from the Sheramatieff's estate in the 
 Caucasus. Wine is not forbidden by the Greek Church in Lent, 
 but meat and fish is. Had they been strict observers of Lent, 
 they told me, they would not be eating even fish at this season. 
 After luncheon we went into one of the drawing-rooms, containing 
 many good pictures. The last addition to the treasures of the 
 palace was a medal lately struck to commemorate the escape of the 
 Imperial Family in the railway accident at Borki. It is of bronze, 
 large and heavy. On one side is the entire Imperial Family, and 
 under the figures the accident is depicted. On the reverse side is a 
 Russian kneeling in gratitude before the guardian angel of the 
 Royal Family. The Czar and Czarina were coming from the Don 
 Cossack country when the accident — attributed to the Nihilists — 
 happened ; they had been staying upon the same journey at another 
 palace of the Sheramatieffs. 
 
 We then went out into the gardens, which are very extensive. 
 They are in many and varied national styles : Italian, with an Italian 
 villa ; Dutch, with a Dutch house ; Swiss, with a Swiss chalet ; and 
 so on. No English garden or house. I asked why not, suggesting 
 that one of the picturesque Shanklin cottages would be very suit- 
 able. The Count said he had been to Shanklin, and would very 
 much like to make one. The gardens are full of statues, all boarded 
 up to protect them from the frost. In the centre of a large lawn is 
 a pillar with inscription recording a visit of Catharine II. At the 
 further end of the gardens stands the great palace, which had been 
 opened for our inspection. It is enormous ; I know of no palace 
 out of Russia so large. At one end stands, detached, the private 
 chapel. We were first shown the conservatories. They are traversed 
 by gravelled walks, and packed with every kind of tropical and 
 other evergreens, making long avenues through richly stocked 
 banks of all kinds of rare plants. Then into the palace ; galleries, 
 corridors, dining-rooms, drawing-rooms succeeded one another in 
 sumptuous array, all grandly furnished. Then the picture gallery, 
 and lastly the bedrooms, all equally beautiful in their way. One, 
 in particular, struck me as perfect. The decoration of raised wreaths 
 of flowers, superbly painted ; walls, ceiling, everywhere thus wreathed. 
 The two beds surrounded by screens of white and gold, with doors 
 leading through them — a bedroom within a bedroom ; all appoint- 
 ments costly, in perfect taste, and representing enormous wealth. 
 The Empress took a great fancy to this bedroom when here — and
 
 i89o] TRYTYAKOFF'S PICTURE-GALLERY 133 
 
 well she might! ^Ve were shown the dining-room in which the 
 Emperor and Empress and their family lunched, and leading out of 
 it a second dining-room, in which the other distinguished visitors 
 lunched, for it is not etiquette to sit with the Imperial Family. 
 Out of Russia they are not so exclusive, for we certainly lunched 
 and dined altogether at Copenhagen. It was now getting late, and 
 although they begged us to stay longer, we were obliged to return to 
 Moscow. The wind on the return journey was in our teeth, and 
 could only be endured by wrapping up the entire head and face, and 
 performing the journey thus in silence. 
 
 On Ash-Wednesday I preached for the second time in Russia an 
 Ash-Wednesday sermon, having twelve days before i)reached one at 
 Warsaw. Russia keeps old reckoning ; Poland ours. I drove after- 
 wards in a gala-troika to Trytyakoff' s Picture Gallery. For the benefit 
 of the uninitiated, a gala-troika is a large handsome sledge, gaily 
 painted and comfortably upholstered, drawn by three horses— hence 
 its name — the harness covered with metal ornaments and coloured 
 trappings. The centre horse, which is harnessed between shafts with 
 high, painted wooden bow over its head, is kept at a smart trot ; the 
 other two, which are inspanned upon either side and free, are kept 
 at a gallop — this being the art of driving a troika. An enormously 
 wide dashboard runs along behind the three horses' heels to prevent 
 the snow from being thrown against the traveller's face. Trytyakoff, 
 the founder of this gallery, was a wealthy citizen of Moscow, who 
 for years spent part of his great wealth in collecting pictures by 
 Russian artists ; they number several thousand. I can only com- 
 ment upon a few, but they deserve mention. All are horrible, more 
 or less, but that is Russian. Some by Makkofski are wonderful. 
 
 A convoy of Siberian prisoners on their way to their exile is 
 horribly interesting. An exile, who looks like an old military man, 
 is dying on a rough droschky : the convoy stops till death ends the 
 weary journey. The wretched faces of those who sit or stand around 
 in the snow watching the old man's end far away from home and 
 friends are truly pathetic. His hand hangs over the side of the 
 droschky, and on it is a ring. A wretch, one of the exiles, has crept 
 under the droschky, and is taking it off. An official in uniform turns 
 back the eyelids of the dying man to see if he is yet dead, anxiouS' 
 to give the order to resume the march. The wild desolation of that 
 scene with all its weird surroundings upon those steppes of boundless 
 snow could scarcely be surpassed.
 
 134 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1890 
 
 The " Retreat from Moscow " is another by the same artist, and 
 is about as terribly realistic. " Freed Serfs " is another. 
 
 Ivan the Terrible killing his son, by the same, is appalling. He 
 has just dealt the fatal blow with a heavy iron bar : the skull of the 
 young fellow is fractured, and blood gushes forth in a dreadful 
 stream, which finds its way everywhere. Ivan, in a sudden accession 
 of agony at what his fiendish rage has done, seizes the broken skull 
 in both his hands, and tries vainly to stop the outrush of the blood, 
 just as one might clasp a wine-barrel from which the bung has flown. 
 He is on his knees, his son has fallen to the ground, and the look of 
 terror on that father's face haunted me. 
 
 But the most terrible in this terrible gallery is the accursed place 
 outside the walls of Rome. Here on a large canvas are several 
 crucifixions. We have surrounded crucifixion with all that art can 
 do to make it unreal, to make it decent and possible to look at. 
 Here we have it in all its naked and appalling horror, as it actually 
 took place, and presented itself to the spectators. The near figures 
 are two : a boy, apparently of about eighteen years of age, hangs on 
 his cross, and seems just dying ; around the loins hangs a dirty 
 ragged end of an old blanket, nothing else. His father, at the foot 
 of the cross, writhes in abject agony ; he is kneeling, and has thrown 
 his arms and head forward upon the ground. The loneliness of the 
 place, its hideous surroundings, the fair form of that poor boy, and 
 the supreme anguish of the wretched father's figure — for his face is 
 hidden — cannot be surpassed. Next to this cross is one upon 
 which a wild, bearded ruffian hangs, totally different from the poor 
 boy in appearance ; he, too, has bowed his head — a fearful head — 
 and given up the ghost. 
 
 Then there are other striking pictures illustrating the Merv and 
 Khiva districts of Central Asia, by Verestchagin, who went down 
 in the Petropaulovski off Port Arthur, A pyramid of skulls, with 
 crows perched upon them, entitled " The Human Race," Another, 
 a heap of freshly-hewn heads of Russians are brought before an 
 Eastern Khan, who stands in a kind of cloister looking down with 
 calm satisfaction upon them, " The Gates of Khiva " is a very fine 
 picture. 
 
 "The Dungeon of a Russian Prison" represents one of those 
 dungeons of Russia, the only access to which is from above, the 
 prisoner being let down through the opening. The floor is of that 
 formation not uncommon in Russian dungeons of the old, cruel
 
 i89o] "HOLY MOSCOW AT LAST" 135 
 
 type ; it is of stone and wedge-shaped, upon which ilic prisoner can 
 neither stand nor He. Several wretched, helpless creatures recline — 
 if one can use so reposeful an expression as associated with such 
 torture — upon the slanting floors. A scant supply of bread and 
 water stands by them until it is finished and starvation begins. One 
 man is already dead, his ghastly face turned towards the spectator. 
 One figure — the most striking in the picture — stands with his Ijack 
 turned; he is clad in coarse, dull, browny-white clothing, nearly 
 down to his heels ; the light from above falls upon this figure, and 
 apparently he looks up at it; one can picture the despair upon the 
 face, but cannot see it. 
 
 Another, a very large canvas by the same artist, is " ScobelefT 
 Reviewing his Troops after the Battle of Plevna " ; the Shipka Pass 
 lies in the background. 
 
 "The Last Council of War" as the French advanced upon 
 Moscow, at which the resolution was arrived at to burn the city. 
 This also is by Verestchagin, of whose unique art we shall see no 
 more. The Council was held out on the hill top upon the road to 
 Borodino, in a house which still stands there, as it stood then, and to 
 which I shall presently refer. The old Russian General's face is a 
 marvel of power ; he is deliberately giving his judgment, upon which 
 all the other members of the Council wait. 
 
 Having digested as many horrors as I could well assimilate, we 
 rejoined our troika sledge and drove up to the range of hills from 
 which the French first caught sight of Moscow. This is an historic 
 spot of great interest. It is 7iot upon what are called the " Sparrow 
 Hills," as some suppose, but upon what is, no doubt, a continuation 
 of that range. It lies due west of Moscow. When the ridge— for it 
 is nothing more — is gained, a small house lies away to the right of 
 the road. Here the " Last Council " of Verestchagin's picture was 
 held. The picture is so faithful that description is unnecessary. 
 Moscow is built upon a number of swellings, they are not hills ; 
 this one, being somewhat higher than the rest, hid Moscow from the 
 advancing grand army until it was reached, when the city in all its 
 Eastern glory and wealth of colouring must have burst as a welcome 
 sight upon men wearied with intense monotony of months of steppe 
 and forest through which they had passed. The general exclama- 
 tion, " Holy Moscow at last," as they threw themselves upon their 
 knees, might well have been their real, and not their legendary cry. 
 At this season of the year the view is much less interesting.
 
 136 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1890 
 
 There lies the vast, wide-spreading city, as the French saw it, but 
 all under snow, and therefore uniform, save for the gold domes and 
 cupolas which flash out of it in the brilliant sunshine. Sledges 
 crowd along this wide roadway which connects Moscow with 
 Western Europe, most of the inward-bound laden with frozen 
 carcasses of sheep, oxen, game, and fish. Those that may show 
 any sign of decomposition are not allowed to be brought into the 
 city. PoHce inspectors are stationed along all approaches to 
 Moscow, and what is condemned is thrown out by the wayside. 
 Thousands upon thousands of hooded crows and jackdaws sit upon 
 and around, while vultures circle over these abandoned carcasses, 
 adding to the wild weirdness of the already sufficiently wild and 
 dismal scenery. All provision of fish, flesh, and fowl is sent into 
 market throughout Russia in a frozen condition, as soon as the 
 winter sets in — it can, indeed, be sent in no other, for it freezes of 
 itself; it is quite a trade, and the supply of game birds is very large 
 indeed ; the plainest dinner is not complete without birds of some 
 kind. These grey crows seem to reHsh mightily the carcasses 
 deemed unfit for human food, as their ancestors doubtless relished 
 the remnants of the strange army from the far west in the earlier 
 part of the century. 
 
 The Romanoff house in Moscow is very interesting. It is the 
 house where the founder of the present dynasty was born. He 
 was a boyar, and this is a typical boyar's house. It is situated 
 upon the abrupt slope of one of the sweUings upon which Moscow 
 is built, in fact, upon the fall which ends in the moat— now a dry 
 ditch — which surrounds the Kremlin. Although restored by the 
 Emperor Nicholas, it is exactly in structure what it originally was. 
 It is small and square, and the walls are very thick. The rooms of 
 each floor — and there are but two, the lowest being a basement or 
 crypt — are vaulted. The house is reached immediately from the 
 street by a short corridor. Thence a flight of steps leads up to 
 the sitting-rooms, among which is a small chapel. The sleeping- 
 rooms above are of exactly the same size and arrangement as those 
 below. All are expected to take off their hats, for the house of 
 the first Romanoff is a sacred building in the eyes of these 
 Muscovites. The trinkets and little valuables of the early ancestors 
 of the reigning Emperor are placed around in glass cases, and are, 
 no doubt, most interesting, but so utterly inexplicable that I cannot 
 describe them; though rich, they evidently belong to a rude age,
 
 i89o] THE KREMLIN PALACE 137 
 
 and to a people of other events and tastes to ourselves. The door- 
 ways are a peculiar feature; they are exceedingly small and low, 
 making it necessary to stoop almost to the ground in passing from 
 one room to another. This, doubtless, for defence. The walls are 
 about two yards thick. The crude type of architecture suggests an 
 outcome of those underground dwellings which are still found in 
 Turkestan, as described by O'Donovan, the Central Asian traveller. 
 There should be a model of this boyar house at South Kensington, 
 its interest and historical associations are most fascinating. The first 
 Romanoff was a priest. 
 
 From the boyar house we drove to the Imperial Palace in the 
 Kremlin. It is well to take the palaces in this order, for the one 
 is an outcome of the other. The old part of the Kremlin Palace is 
 an improvement upon, or rather an expansion of, the primitive 
 boyar house — which represents the first overground dwelling or 
 house after the underground. There are the same square-shaped 
 rooms, the same massive walls, the same vaulted roof, the same rich 
 painting of the walls and ceiling, but all upon a far larger and 
 grander scale, though still savage and Oriental. There also, hard 
 by the ancient nucleus out of which has grown the more recent 
 palace, stands the little church, or royal chapel of the palace, which 
 once stood in a wood. This early savage palace, added to from 
 time to time and stretching along the entire front of the Kremlin 
 terrace, forms the magnificent pile of buildings dominating every- 
 thing else on the Kremlin plateau, and is visible from all parts of 
 Moscow and the surrounding country. 
 
 The new palace is connected with the little old palace, and you 
 pass from one to the other, noticing only as you go the transition in 
 style. First comes St. George's Hall, an overpowering piece of 
 magnificence in size and style, enormous and gorgeous beyond 
 description. It is entirely white, roof vaulted, and still bearing 
 traces of the boyar house so far as style is concerned. Nothing in 
 India or the world can surpass this hall. It must be nearly one 
 hundred yards in length, and runs from the old palace at the back to 
 the front of the new palace, which stretches along the heights of the 
 Kremlin. Traversing this hall from north to south an immense 
 doorway leads at right angles into St. Andrew's Hall, little less m 
 size than St. George's, but totally different in architecture and 
 appearance. In the former all is white. Here the richest colouring 
 and gilding literally cover the walls, columns, friezes, ceilings; a
 
 138 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1890 
 
 superb chamber indeed. In the same line of continuation the 
 throne-room opens out of this, and is perhaps in richness and 
 decoration the most splendid of the three. One regrets that these 
 three Arabian Nights-like halls, raised as by enchantment, do 
 not follow upon each other in one continuous line. The present 
 arrangement was inevitable; there is not room upon the Kremlin 
 frontage for such a treatment. Turning to the right at the end 
 of the three halls the private apartments of the Emperor and 
 Empress are entered, consisting of exquisite reception-rooms, too 
 numerous to detail in their extraordinary decoration and beauty. I 
 have seen, I may say, the palaces of Europe, not a few of them 
 under the best and most favourable circumstances, alive with their 
 royalties, but this, even in its unoccupied condition, eclipses all 
 others. The dining-rooms in the old part of the palace, where the 
 newly-crowned Emperor dines on his Coronation Day, are note- 
 worthy. There he sits alone, absolutely alone, his nobles waiting 
 upon him, handing him dishes on bended knee. A truly Oriental 
 potentate this ! The private rooms in the old palace of the patriarch 
 who lived here in olden days are also historically interesting. Nika 
 was the last patriarch of the Orthodox Church in Russia. Peter the 
 Great, fearing that so much power in the hands of an ecclesiastic 
 would be dangerous, substituted the Holy Synod of Laymen, which 
 still obtains, and of which Pobiedonostzeff is the Procurator. Thus 
 is Church and State closely blended even in Holy Russia, where it 
 would be thought an extremely jealous priestly power would not 
 have allowed such a connexion. And yet there are those who call 
 the AngHcan Church Erastian! If she is, so is also, in accentuated 
 reality, the Orthodox Church of Russia. 
 
 It was thought right that I should call upon the Military Governor 
 of Moscow and the MetropoUtan Archbishop, which I did, leaving 
 my cards. Mr. McGill is the patriarch of the English manufacturing 
 colony here in Moscow, and its oldest resident. After dinner at his 
 house, which is full of interesting Russian treasures, he showed me 
 a table, the slab of which is made of a very rare stone, called the 
 "peacock stone," from the fact that caught in certain Hghts it 
 presents the same rich circular spots as those upon the feathers of 
 the peacock's tail. 
 
 Upon leaving Moscow I travelled through the night to Petersburg 
 by what was at that time considered the most luxuriously appointed 
 train in Europe, composed entirely of first-class carriages and sleep-
 
 '890] MOSCOW 135 
 
 ing-cars. This, common enough now in many parts of Europe, 
 was at that time the only train so appointed. I had, by arrange- 
 ment, a compartment to myself, and was very comfortable. 
 
 Before reaching the modern capital of Russia I must enter extracts 
 from writers upon the old capital, which well describe its appear- 
 ance now, though written some years ago, for there are perhajjs 
 few cities in Europe less changed by time than Moscow. Thus 
 Halleway, writing in 1743, describes it as having a number of 
 churches hardly within belief; they are estimated, he says, at 1800. 
 Cox, writing in 1784, says : — 
 
 "I was struck with the irregularity of Smolensk©; I was all 
 astonishment at the immensity and variety of Moscow. A city so 
 irregular, so uncommon, so extraordinary, and so contrasted I never 
 saw. Some of the streets are paved, others formed of trunks of 
 trees, or boarded with planks; wretched hovels are blended with 
 large palaces. Some of the wooden houses are painted; others 
 have iron doors and roofs. Numerous churches present themselves 
 in every quarter, built in peculiar styles of architecture ; some with 
 domes of copper, others of gilt and painted green." 
 
 Coming down a little later, Dr. Clarke writes in 1800 : — 
 
 " Moscow is in everything extraordinary. In approaching it 
 numerous spires glittering with gold, amidst burnished domes and 
 painted palaces, appear in the midst of an open plain for several 
 versts before you reach the city. . . . Timber huts from regions 
 beyond the Arctic ; plastered palaces from Sweden and Denmark ; 
 painted walls from Tirol ; mosques from Constantinople ; Tartar 
 temples from Bucharia ; pagodas, pavilions, verandahs from China ; 
 cabarets from Spain ; dungeons, prisons, and public offices from 
 France ; terraces and trellises from Naples ; and warehouses from 
 Wapping. . '. . The daily throng there is so immense that, unable 
 to force a passage through it, you ask the cause, and are told that 
 it is always the same. Nor are the costumes less various than the 
 aspect of the buildings. Greeks, Turks, Tartars, Cossacks, Chinese, 
 Poles, Germans, English, French, Italians, Persians, Muscovites— all 
 parade in the habits of their respective countries." 
 
 Baer writes: " Moscua, non a fluvio fuit, enim vetus nomen 'Smoro- 
 dina ' — sed a vetero monasterio Moskva, nomen habet." 
 
 Kutchko, a rich noble, owned all the property where Moscow now 
 stands— when it was a dense wood— and very probably gave the
 
 I40 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1890 
 
 name Kouskova to the palace of the Sheramatieffs, which I visited 
 and have described. 
 
 Upon reaching Petersburg I found Sir R. and Lady Morier in 
 great trouble about their son. He had been seriously wounded by 
 a pistol. I only, therefore, left my cards. I then went to the Grand 
 Duke Sergius's palace, and wrote my name in the Grand Duchess 
 Elizabeth's book. Thence to a humbler, but not less worthy, person- 
 age, the old EngUsh nurse of the Imperial Family, Mrs. Streton, 
 who then lived in the Winter Palace. She had been nurse to the 
 present Emperor, his brothers, and the Duchess of Edinburgh. She 
 had rooms for life in the Winter Palace, very nicely furnished, and 
 had always one of the royal carriages at her disposal. She had lived 
 in the Winter Palace for thirty years, and had been sixty years nurse 
 in the family ! The walls of her sitting-room were hung round with 
 portraits of the Russian Royal Family. It sounded strange to hear her 
 call the Grand Dukes by their Christian names. " Michael came to 
 see me the other day," or " Paul came and sat with me last week." 
 " Lor'," she said, " I can't help calling them by their names, for, you 
 see, I brought them all up from babies." She had had many 
 diamonds given her by different members of the Imperial Family, 
 upon such occasions as christenings, weddings, etc. There is a 
 system by which jewellery given by the Royal Family of Russia may 
 be returned to the Treasury and allowed for at its value. This 
 she had invariably done, for as she said, " What use are such 
 things to me ? " With the proceeds she had bought a nice little 
 house and garden, outside Petersburg, where she lived in the 
 summer. Not long after I visited her this faithful creature died. 
 Her funeral was attended by the Czar and his brothers the Grand 
 Dukes, who acted as pall-bearers — so much respected was this good 
 fellow-countrywoman of ours in the land of her voluntary exile. 
 The Russians don't forget faithful service. They are true friends 
 and generous. 
 
 Two parties of Samoyedes with their reindeer were encamped 
 upon the Neva. There were Laps also from the far north of Finland, 
 who come down here in the winter to make money. Their tents are 
 of reindeer skin stretched around poles fixed in the ice, and sloping 
 to a common apex. The reindeer must be driven every morning 
 ten miles to the north to graze upon the nearest moss to Petersburg, 
 found in that district. The Neva is always a beautiful object on 
 brilliant winter days ; the life upon it is so full and varied Ice-
 
 i89o] THE IMPERIAL LIBRARY ,41 
 
 cutters carrying away the glorious square blocks, glittering like huge 
 diamonds in the sunlight, foot passengers in hundreds, regiments of 
 soldiers, sledges, skaters, gamesters, etc. 
 
 One day during this visit to Petersburg I called at the Anitchkoff 
 Palace, where the Emperor and Empress were residing. It is not 
 easy to gain admission even for this purpose, so strict are the pre- 
 cautions taken, and so cautious are the guards ordered to be. It 
 was at these gates that the attempt upon the Emperor's life was to 
 have taken place when I was last at Petersburg, as already related. 
 A gentleman, resident in Petersburg who was with me, had to get 
 out and interview a superior officer on guard, telling him who I was. 
 We then obtained leave to pass in, the gentleman turning to me 
 and saying, " I never passed these charmed gates before." 
 
 Then to call upon the Archbishop of Petersburg. I left cards 
 only, though pressed to go in. The Metropolitan Isidore is very old 
 and somewhat deaf, and I thought the respect shown by leaving 
 cards was sufficient. He lives in the palace adjoining the Alexander 
 Nevski Monastery. Alexander Nevski was the deliverer of Russia 
 from the Swedes. The great street in Petersburg, three miles 
 long, takes its name from this monastery, which stands at the end of 
 it. Upon the occasion of this visit to Petersburg I confirmed 
 eighty candidates ; a Russian priest and a good many Russians 
 were in the congregation. 
 
 The Imperial Library is quite one of the Petersburg sights. 
 Mr. Boas, the head Ubrarian, was most attentive and kind, taking 
 the greatest pains to make my visit interesting, and insisting upon 
 my seeing everything, which is by no means the case, I was told, 
 with ordinary visitors. The Codex Sinaiticus is, of course, the great 
 treasure of the library. It is bound in gold, and locked up in a 
 glass case richly gilt. The Codex Vaticatms is not always easily 
 seen even in it : sglass case, though I saw it many years ago when at 
 Rome. The Codex Alexandrinus in the British Museum is, I sup- 
 pose, rarely unlocked. The librarian not only unlocked the casket 
 which contains the codex, but allowed me to turn over several 
 leaves of the precious parchment. Several pages are wanting, the 
 codex beginning at the Book of Joshua. It is said that they arc in 
 Petersburg, but, if so, they are not with the rest of the MS. This 
 codex, as is known, was discovered by Professor Tischendorf in the 
 convent of St. Catharine, under Mount Sinai ; hence its name. 
 He was visiting the Arabian peninsula in search of manuscripts, and
 
 142 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1890 
 
 had been staying at the convent. Not long before he left, having 
 gained the confidence and friendship of the monks, one of them 
 brought out an old, dirty, much-defaced set of leaves, which had been 
 found in a cellar, and asked him if he cared to have them. This was 
 the priceless Codex Sinaiticus, purchased from Tischendorf by the 
 Russian Government. There are acres of other valuable MSS. in 
 this mighty library. An evangile in Russian of very early date is 
 probably the next in value to the codex. It is bound in a gorgeous 
 solid gold binding. 
 
 M. Boas, the librarian, was greatly interested in Mary Queen of 
 Scots, and asked much about her, inquiring if there were any relics of 
 her in England. I forgot at the moment to tell him of the large lock 
 of hair which the Baroness Burdett-Coutts once showed me in a 
 locket set with diamonds. It is bright auburn, cut from her head 
 after her execution, and came to the Baroness through the Regent 
 Murray. Half the original lock the Baroness gave to our Queen 
 Victoria, also in a locket set in diamonds, which, she added, " Her 
 Majesty much valued, being proud of her descent from the Stuarts." 
 The librarian showed me Mary's mass-book with notes in her hand- 
 writing upon the margin; also Wallenstein's horoscope. It is in 
 shape somewhat like a mariner's compass. There is also a large 
 collection of autographs of the Czars, from Peter the Great down- 
 wards, with specimen letters of each. That by Paul is very badly 
 written, indicative of the ignorance of Russian princes at that date. 
 A letter of the Emperor Nicholas I to his nurse in large round text 
 is very interesting. Also his Latin exercises : " Amatus sum, amatus 
 es, amatus est ; amabar, amabaris, amabatur," etc. These are very 
 neat. The handwriting of the late Empress is represented by a 
 short letter in French: "Je vous attendrai demain, a onze heures, 
 Marie." There is a copy-book of Louis XIV amongst the rarer 
 MSS. in French, which runs thus in English : " A king can do as he 
 pleases with his subjects," repeated all the way down the page. 
 " That," I said, turning to Monsieur Boas, " looks very like the egg 
 from which the French Revolution was hatched." A Russian never 
 carries on a remark upon a political question or opinion. He was 
 silent. In the English department I was shown Carlyle's works, 
 Dickens, etc. 
 
 At a reception I had much conversation with Dobson, of the 
 Times. He told me that the Siberian letters which had been 
 appearing, with articles upon them, had made his position in Peters-
 
 '^90] SLEDGE TRAVELLING ,43 
 
 burg very unpleasant: their spirit, if not their aulliorship, hcinj; 
 attributed to him. I had much conversation at this reception wii,h 
 the chaplain of Cronstadt about Father John, who is parish priest of 
 the Orthodox Church at Cronstadt. He spoke of him as a remark- 
 able and very holy man, giving no credit to himself for working the 
 alleged miracles, and taking not a kopek for himself of the large 
 offerings made to him. " They say I work miracles," is the way he 
 puts it ; " I only know that I [iray, and that God hears my prayers." 
 His mode of praying is very remarkable. He asks with a wonderful 
 confidence and faith, not doubting the result, as though it were 
 impossible that God would deny the requests he makes. I was 
 thrown in a later visit to Russia with this remarkable man, and 
 shall have much more to say about him further on. 
 
 At SchliJsselberg, upon Lake Ladoga, the Russian Company has 
 a factory. I was asked to visit it, and confirm in the little chapel 
 attached to the works, and left Petersburg for that purpose on 
 4 March in a large, rough, but comfortable troika sledge, made for 
 country journeys. These troikas resemble in shape an old- 
 fashioned phaeton taken off its wheels, with leather hood, stuffed at 
 the back with cushions, the bottom thickly strewn with hay to 
 keep the feet warm. At the outskirts of the city we crossed the 
 Neva upon the ice, and soon emerged into the country. The first 
 part of the journey is very flat and uninteresting; after a while 
 a range of low hills is reached, then succeeds much beautiful forest 
 of fir and birch, which in winter time is infested by wolves. 
 Emerging from the Neva we struck a small river, and drove upon it 
 for about nine versts. This sledge travelling on ice is delicious ; 
 scarcely any motion is felt, the sledge gliding along the even, snow- 
 covered surface, the horses, in full gallop, making nothing of their 
 work. 
 
 Upon leaving the little river which runs through deep forest, we 
 took again to the rough, wretched track full of veritable chasms. 
 The driver does not prepare the traveller for these jjitfalls, and he 
 cannot see them for himself by reason of the big dashboard. The 
 Muscovite coachman takes them at/ ^s^rand ^alop, the result being 
 that the occupants of the troika fly up in the air, and may consider 
 themselves fortunate if they do not alight in the snow behind the 
 sledge and become a portion for wolves. Sometimes the bearded 
 Jehu varies the proceedings, and takes half the troika into the 
 chasm, leaving the other half on its edge, the result being either
 
 144 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1890 
 
 forcible ejection, which often happens, or the upsetting of the sledge 
 altogether, which comes to much the same thing. The everlasting 
 rejoinder is " Nitchevo," the invariably added insult to Russian 
 injuries and misdeeds of all and every kind. 
 
 At last as the sun was setting we emerged from the forest, 
 mounted a high bank, and there immediately beneath us— outspread 
 in that wonderful glow seen only in the far north — lay the Neva far 
 below us with the track across to the other steep bank, and beyond, 
 again, the great Lake Ladoga stretching away to the far horizon, ice- 
 bound, and covered with snow. It is about seventy miles in length. 
 Here we were close to the point at which the river passes majestic- 
 ally out of its cradle, and not far up into the lake, upon an island, 
 stands the State prison, the fortress of Schliisselberg, a name more 
 dreaded in Russia even than Siberia. The river rushes so rapidly 
 on either side of its walls that it rarely freezes very thick at these 
 two points. This view forms a characteristic piece of hard, northern 
 scenery. A wooded height on the opposite bank, a kind of promon- 
 tory, hides a small and picturesque cemetery ; a coloured pagoda-like 
 roof tops the fortress, and makes the picture complete. The fall 
 down to the Neva from the high bank is very abrupt. A man with 
 a pickaxe was sedately mending the icy road across, as if he were 
 on terra firma ! Down the steep fall, at a gallop, on to and across 
 the Neva — which is here about a quarter of a mile wide — up the 
 opposite rocky bank, and two or three miles further Schliisselberg town 
 on the mainland was reached. Here is a large factory of English and 
 Russian hands, a caHco-printing factory, the cahco being made at 
 the EngUsh factory of Alexandrowitch, near Petersburg. We 
 crossed a canal, and passing under a gateway, entered the factory 
 premises — which are extensive — drove up to the manager's house, 
 and in the story above, which belongs to Mr. John Hubbard, whom 
 all Petersburg knows and esteems, found most comfortable quarters. 
 At Schliisselberg, in the pretty little chapel provided by the church- 
 loving care of Lord Addington, the head of the Russian Company, 
 I confirmed seven candidates, where I am quite sure a confirmation 
 either of the Anglican or Greek communion hr.d never before been 
 held. 
 
 The next day I went over the factory, and was shown the process, 
 which is almost identical with that of ordinary printing of pictures. 
 Cylinders of copper engraved with the various patterns, as they 
 revolve, are touched by brushes which deposit the colours upon
 
 i89o] LAKE LADOGA ,45 
 
 them. The calico when printed is wound up into rooms above 
 and there dried. Small Russian boys, with little or no clothing 
 manage this upper department, the heat being intense. Only the 
 foremen are English, seven hundred Russians being employed. 
 Just at that time handkerchiefs were being printed for the Central 
 Asian trade, of a beautiful dark red and brown, such as Bokariots, 
 Samarcandians, and Turkestan tribes delight to wear, 
 
 Mr. McCullum, the head of the factory, took me in his sledge 
 upon the lake, and we drove towards the fortress. It is used as a 
 political prison. The Nihilists, whose plot to kill the Emperor was 
 discovered when I was last in Petersburg, three years ago, are 
 confined here. There are dungeons beneath with the wedge-shaped 
 stone floors of Verestchagin's picture, but they are no longer used. 
 The prisoners are not badly treated, being allowed now and then a 
 short walk up and down within the fortress walls. Mr. McCullum 
 knows the Governor, and has been allowed to visit the prison. But 
 it is very strictly guarded. Sentinels with loaded carbines face the 
 walls and ramparts, and if any one approaches within a certain 
 distance, either by sledge in winter, or by boat in summer, they are 
 under orders to fire upon them. One of the political prisoners here 
 confined struck the doctor the other day. The reason he gave was 
 that he bore no ill-will to him, but knowing that the act meant 
 death, he preferred it to lifelong captivity, which he had found 
 intolerable. He was shot, and buried within the precincts of the 
 fortress. 
 
 Peter the Great made a canal from Schliisselberg, which com- 
 municates with the Volga. He opened it in person, and there is 
 preserved in Schliisselberg a small boat which he used on the 
 occasion. St. Luke is said to have painted a picture which hangs 
 in a small chapel here, and is held very sacred. We returned to 
 Petersburg by the same route. 
 
 A gentleman, who has recently returned from the Crimea, showed 
 me some very interesting photographs of Sebastopol and its neigh- 
 bourhood. The graves of our soldiers upon Cathcarts Hill are now 
 well cared for, and the cemetery is fairly planted. The journey 
 over the hills to Yalta must be strikingly grand. The route lies up 
 the historic valley of the Balaclava Charge, which still bears the 
 scars of the Russian batteries. At the top of a lonely, wild valley, 
 rock-bounded on each side, stand the gates of Beidar. After 
 following this lonely valley for some hours, a notch is reached in 
 L
 
 146 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1890 
 
 the rocky summit furnished with a heavy gate, upon passing which 
 a grand view bursts upon the traveller. The Black Sea stretches 
 away far as the eye can reach to the horizon ; far, far below this 
 wondrous " Undercliff " of the Crimea lies Yalta embedded amongst 
 palms and other tropical growth. Here is Livadia, the Emperor's 
 Crimean residence — where Alexander III died — and the palace of 
 the Woronzoffs, now deserted. In the great hall an arrangement is 
 made by which in summer a cascade descends from behind the 
 massive marble chimney-piece, and flows away through a marble 
 receptacle below ; the cascade being grouped about with a wealth of 
 ferns and palms. The best route to take in order to see this interesting 
 part of Russia is to travel by rail from Moscow to Vladi-Kavkas ; 
 the rail goes no further than this, progress being stopped by the 
 precipitous range of the Caucasus. Carriages convey passengers 
 from this point for twenty-four hours by the Dariel Pass, a wonderful 
 road of stupendous zigzags, to Tiflis. It is a beautiful drive in 
 spring when the pass is bordered with rhododendrons and azaleas. 
 From Tiflis two routes present themselves by rail : one to Baku on 
 the Caspian, en route for Merv, Bokhara, Samarkand, Tashkend, and 
 the Afghan frontier, the other turning westward to Batoum on the 
 Black Sea, whence steamers run to Yalta, Sebastopol, Odessa, and 
 Varna, or direct from Sebastopol in forty-eight hours to Constanti- 
 nople. 
 
 Upon the return journey from Petersburg I travelled with Mr. 
 Winter, a Queen's messenger, who is tired of his twenty-seven 
 years' travelling. In comparing our work and travel, he said, " You 
 have interesting work to do upon your journeys, mine is purely 
 mechanical ; a trained retriever could do it." 
 
 At Pskoff I had to change trains for Riga by a recently opened 
 line. It was a wild snow-stormy night, and when I was settled in 
 my new train, I said, as I wrapped myself up for what sleep I could 
 get, "That's a good job!" I was surprised to hear from a neighbour- 
 ing corner, " Yes, it is." I little thought that I had an Anglo-Saxon 
 for my fellow-traveller in this comparatively out-of-the-way district. 
 He turned out to be an American. After observing me for some 
 time he said, "Are you the bishop of these parts?" To which 
 I replied that I supposed I was the bishop for Anglo-Saxons, but 
 how did he know that. " Well, I heard you preach in Berlin last 
 November." He told me of a gruesome journey he had made two 
 winters before to Scandinavia. He was from Monday midday to
 
 i89o] «'WHAT A JOURNEY!" 147 
 
 Friday afternoon getting over the ice and snow-drifts between 
 Vamdrup in Schleswig-Holstein and Copenhagen ; this journey 
 usually, as I know by experience, taking twelve hours. At that 
 time Stockholm had no post from Europe for thirteen days, he 
 himself being best part of a day breaking his way in a steamer from 
 Malmo to Copenhagen, a journey usually of four hours. 
 
 At Riga I made but short stay. At Eydkuhnen, the frontier, the 
 German officials demanded my passport. " Passport in Deutsch- 
 land ! " I exclaimed. " Oh, Englander ? rechts," and the Civis 
 Romanus sum was sufficient. 
 
 I reached Berlin early on a Sunday morning, preaching at 
 St. George's in the evening. The Empress Frederick and Princesses 
 Victoria and Margarita were present. After service the Empress 
 waited in the royal lobby, sending word that she would like to see 
 me. Was I stopping in Berlin ? I said that I was only passing 
 through from Russia on my way to England, and that I had been 
 five nights out of bed. " What a journey ! " she exclaimed ; " you 
 must be dead tired." She wished to know if I was coming to Berlin 
 again this year. She asked this, I understood, because she wanted 
 me to unveil the new windows which she and our Queen were 
 putting in to the memory of the Emperor Frederick. I told her I 
 should not. She said she was going to England in June, and hoped 
 to see me there. 
 
 From Berlin I travelled direct to England via Rotterdam and 
 Harwich.
 
 CHAPTER XV 
 
 The old Flemish woman's verdict, " Siebenzig jahre"— An interview with the 
 Grand Duchess of Baden — Climb up the St. Gothard — The Furca and 
 Grimsel Passes in deep snow — Fourth Conference at Paris — A terrible story — 
 A stormy passage to Brittany. 
 
 EARLY in 1890 I visited Brussels for confirmation and other 
 work. Thence I travelled by the Luxemburg-Strasburg route 
 to Switzerland, confirming at Lausanne; also confirming and ad- 
 dressing a meeting at Territet on behalf of the Continental 
 Bishopric. 
 
 My two favourite wandering-points at Territet, which I never 
 omit, are up to the parish church of Montreux, whence the view is 
 very beautiful, and down to Chillon and round about the cherry 
 orchards. It was only 27 March, and yet a willow-warbler was 
 singing, telling that here spring had come. The chafifinch is the 
 first harbinger, and I note each spring his little song, ending in its 
 abrupt staccato, with almost as much interest as the first swallow. 
 From Territet I travelled direct to Ghent. Through Switzerland I 
 had as a fellow-passenger a Russian Nihilist from Nishni. The 
 wretched scoundrel had, I believe, been hatching plots at Geneva, 
 the head-quarters of dynamiters in this part of Europe. He had 
 the impudence to tell me that " all the best people in Russia were 
 Nihilists, and that the Czar had not half a year to live." I gave him 
 Ishebiskova's letter to read. 
 
 Upon this occasion I saw in Ghent Cathedral what I had never 
 before had the opportunity of seeing, the "Adoration of the 
 Lamb " ; the Saviour and Blessed Virgin only, by Hubert van 
 Eyck. Several panels of the picture are in Berlin, and some 
 in Brussels. In the choir are four large candlesticks sixteen feet 
 high, sold from our St. Paul's Cathedral by that robber of churches, 
 Cromwell. Resting in an old Flemish woman's house, the chaplain 
 said, " This is our English Bishop." " The Bishop is an old man," 
 
 148
 
 i89o] THE GRAND DUCHESS OF BADEN 149 
 
 she said. " How old do you suppose the Bishop is ? " She looked 
 fixedly at me, and said, " Siebenzig jahre."' I was then fifty-three. 
 Quite enough to make one returo to England, which I did at once 
 via Antwerp. 
 
 On 13 May I was again in Brussels, on my way to Bonn, where I 
 confirmed, and at Coblenz, where I found that our Queen had given 
 four oak stalls to the church since I was here the year before. This 
 in response to a suggestion made by the Empress Augusta that she 
 should, by some gift, mark the jubilee of the EngUsh chapel at 
 Coblenz. The dear old Empress had said when I last saw her that 
 she hoped the confirmation this year would be held when she was 
 at Coblenz, as she wished to receive me. Alas ! before this visit, 
 our kind, constant, and most generous friend had been taken to 
 another kingdom, and old Countess Hacke, the faithful and aged 
 retainer of fort)'-five years' service, was too ill to see me. 
 
 From Coblenz I went to Wiesbaden, where I was the guest of 
 the Bensons, for confirmation and other work, and thence to Heidel- 
 berg, Stuttgart, and Carlsruhe for the same purpose. A letter came 
 from the Schloss at Carlsruhe as I went to the church to say that 
 the Grand Duchess would like to see me. The palace is large 
 and handsome, and surrounded by fine gardens, beautifully kept. 
 Louisa of Baden, always kind and friendly, thanked me for coming. 
 She is tall, of a sad countenance, and was dressed in deep mourn- 
 ing. She is neither like father, mother, or brother. She wished 
 so much to see me, she said, because her mother, the Empress, had 
 so often talked to her of me. She had lately returned from visiting 
 her daughter, the Crown Princess of Sweden. We sat and talked 
 for about half an hour. The conversation turned mostly upon her 
 mother's death. She told me that she was asked to tell her that 
 the end was approaching, but did not think it right to do so. " Why 
 should I," she added, " to one so well prepared ? " The Empress 
 had no idea she was dying, so long had she been in a frail, failing 
 condition. Towards the end she knew no one. The Grand 
 Duchess asked her mother if she knew anybody, to which she 
 replied, "Yes, I know you, das gute kind:' "We were all in all 
 to each other, such a mother, and such a character." The Grand 
 Duchess talked much also of her father, the old Kaiser, and of 
 her brother, the Emperor Frederick. "We cannot see why he 
 was taken away from us just as he had reached the throne, but we 
 shall know." I told her how affectionately he was mourned m
 
 I50 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1890 
 
 England, describing the sorrow evinced in London churches the 
 Sunday after the news reached England. " Yes," she said, " it was 
 very touching; he loved the English dearly and they loved him." 
 Then about Prince Ludwig and his death. I said he looked so 
 strong when in the Abbey on the Jubilee Day. She spoke of him 
 as "such a good Christian boy," and promised to send me his 
 picture, as well as one of her mother's taken after death, which is 
 not published. She inquired much about the English church in 
 Carlsruhe, and asked if she could do anything for it, expressing her 
 wish to carry on her mother's work for and interests in the English 
 church. " She loved it so." She said she had a suitable little chapel 
 in a hospital, which she would lend for our service. We spoke 
 also of educational matters and the Coblenz chaplaincy, which her 
 mother had so kindly helped. I related to her my last interview with 
 the Empress at Baden, and how I felt that I should never see her 
 again. She said that her mother had written and told her of it. I 
 had to leave that afternoon for Switzerland, and begging her to 
 excuse me I took my leave. 
 
 I then went for a few days' run into the mountains, for which I so 
 rarely find time when in Switzerland with all my many engagements. 
 My first point was Lucerne, thence to Goschenen, on the St. Gothard, 
 the climb up to which by the Gothardbahn must be seen, it cannot 
 be described; one of the many wonders of the world. The line 
 winds and cUmbs, climbs and winds high up over the Reuss, 
 doubling and redoubling upon itself up to the very snow-line. The 
 zigzags, corkscrews, and loop tunnels around Wasen in the very 
 bowels of the mountains are marvellous. Three viaducts, one below 
 or above the other, as the position of the traveller may be, when the 
 line doubles back upon itself in three mighty zigzags. Then up and 
 up again, the valley narrowing, growing wilder, more precipitous, 
 barren, and savage, till no more twistings, no more circles or loop- 
 tunnels — they are now impossible — the pass by railway is further 
 impassable. Bleak, black, weird, snowy, rises the St. Gothard, 
 thousands of feet already attained from the Lake of Lucerne, and 
 thousands more unattainable ; nothing for it but to tunnel ; so there 
 at last, in this wild, lonely mountainous region, wedged in between 
 these everlasting precipices, and at the mouth of the great tunnel — 
 the next daylight at the other end being nine miles away, at Airolo, 
 in Italy — stands the great railway-station of Goschenen, with waiters, 
 round a table d'hote for three hundred guests, in tail coats, white
 
 iSgo] 
 
 THE FURCA AND GRIMSEL PASSES 
 
 ':)| 
 
 ties and shirt-fronts, as if they were in Paris or Berlin instead of 
 up here amongst the chamois and the eagles of the Alps! 
 Truly a triumph of civilization over Nature, this station and its 
 surroundings ! 
 
 Here I left the train and walked over the Furca. The pass soon 
 became blocked with arrcte and avalanche snow, first ankle, then 
 knee-deep, and then middle-deep; and had we not come 'upon 
 a guide from Oberwald, returning to the Valais, we should never 
 have got through that day's march. Tourists drive over the I-'urca 
 for about two to three months in the year. But then there was no 
 trace of a road, steep fields and arrctcs of snow in most dangerous 
 condition blotting it entirely out. The little hotel was dug out of 
 the snow, and was invisible until its surrounding snow-walls were 
 passed through ; it had been literally, not figuratively, " buried " in 
 the snow. 
 
 The descent to the Rhone Glacier Hotel was quite as bad and 
 perilous as the ascent from Andermatt. What Baedeker gives as 
 a twenty minutes' walk took two and a half hours to traverse, the 
 foothold treacherous, and many hundreds of feet to fall had a slip 
 occurred. Just twenty-four hours previously a gigantic avalanche 
 from the Mittenhorn had fallen, blocking the valley, and entirely 
 obliterating the road for nearly two miles. Our guide was here 
 at the time, and the wind caused by the avalanche knocked him 
 down to the ground, though it fell two miles away on the other side 
 of the valley. 
 
 From the Rhone Glacier, where I slept, I went on to Fiesch, 
 climbed to the yEgishhorn, with intent to sleep there, but find- 
 ing it closed and blocked with snow, returned and slept at Fiesch. 
 It was quite evident from experience upon the Furca that the 
 Grimsel could not be traversed without a guide ; so taking the same 
 Antonio Kreutz, who had saved us from destruction the day before, 
 we retraced our steps to the Rhone Glacier, and plunged again into 
 the deep snow of that most grim pass which calls itself the Grimsel, 
 easy and pleasant enough in summer, but just then undoubtedly 
 very dangerous, as the trusty Antonio repeatedly told us. A 
 gloriously wild walk, clouds above rifting now and again to show us 
 the grand old Finster Aarhorn which can only be seen in full majesty 
 from this pass. The Toden See hardly discoverable. Thirty years 
 before I had done it all in summer, but the scenery was as nothing 
 compared to this season. Even the hardy Antonio — born and
 
 152 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1S90 
 
 brought up at Oberwald in the immediate neighbourhood — had to 
 stop repeatedly as the clouds came sweeping down, blotting every- 
 thing out, to catch sight, if possible, of some familiar peak or rock. 
 Then he would listen for any sound of torrents whose deep, rocky 
 beds lay hundreds of feet below the treacherous snow we were 
 traversing, to fall through which would be instant destruction. 
 After a long and trying time we struck upon some faint foot-tracks, 
 upon which Antonio gained assurance, gHssading down the steep 
 snow-slopes upon his alpenstock and bidding us to follow. At last 
 the rough wooden hospice loomed through the clouds in front of 
 us, dug out deep round, half hidden by its walls of snow. 
 
 Here we parted with the good Antonio, and pursued our way to 
 Guttannen. About a quarter of a mile below the hospice, and just 
 where it disappears from sight, is a solitary signboard, by a bridge, 
 which directs the traveller coming up to the Rhone Valley by the 
 right-hand path, and to the Grimsel on the left. This little bridge 
 is the finest point in the whole route. The intensely savage solitude, 
 surrounded then and almost always with eternal snow, and lofty 
 peaks, is most impressive. " Stand and look well at this," I said to 
 the young friend I was with; "you will see nothing finer in all Switzer- 
 land." All around, right, left, and everywhere an awful solitude, 
 surrounded by stupendous nature. 
 
 I must apologize for having dared to write of such familiar scenes, 
 so well known to most travellers. I have only ventured to do so 
 because I saw, and have described, them in an unfamiUar dress, at 
 an unfamiliar season of the year. I know them well, also, at the 
 familiar season, have known them from a boy, but never saw them 
 in all their wintry savage glory till upon this occasion. The traveller 
 can do all this now upon wheels, save at the season and under 
 the circumstances just described. 
 
 Paris, with its Conference, its confirmations, sermons, committee 
 meetings, dinners, luncheons, and receptions formed an abrupt 
 change, but the Swiss snows probably enabled me the better to get 
 through them. I had much talk with Lady Lytton at the Embassy 
 about South Africa ; her sister. Lady Loch, being wife of the Lieu- 
 tenant-Governor of the Cape. With Lord Lytton the conversation 
 is generally and naturally about India. The Lyttons kindly threw 
 open the Embassy and their grounds to the members of the Confer- 
 ence, where a large reception closed our sessions and proceedings. 
 
 On my Avay back to England I stayed at Boulogne for the usual
 
 ^^9o] A TERRIBLE STORY 
 
 confirmation and other work, including the inevitable meeting on 
 behalf of the Continental Ijishopric. 
 
 The chaplain of Holy Trinity, Boulogne, told me a very terrible 
 story. Twelve godless young men, gentlemen by birth and educa- 
 tion, met at a dinner on Good Friday, ten years before, in Boulogne. 
 At the close of a noisy dinner they obtained the services of a 
 photographer, arrayed themselves as the Saviour and His Apostles 
 at the Last Supper, and thus impersonated were photographed. 
 Four months afterwards the chaplain was summoned to the death- 
 bed of the young man who had grouped the party, and had been 
 the leader of the blasphemous scene. It was a case of smallpox. 
 His face presented a terrible appearance, discoloured and distorted, 
 his eyes staring, and his tongue protruding. At his funeral some 
 of the young men who had taken part in that wicked representation 
 were present. The chaplain took the occasion to speak to them 
 solemnly, urging them to repentance, but it is to be feared without 
 effect. In four years from that day, death had removed five of 
 these young men. The one who had personated the Saviour fell 
 dead in a wineshop at Boulogne. Horrified at the result, one of 
 the number took the blasphemous picture in his possession to his 
 remaining companions, and said, " The hand of God is upon us ; 
 our lives are worth nothing whilst we allow this picture to exist," and 
 he burnt it before them. 
 
 Such a story forms a fitting close to a continental journey. I 
 crossed from Boulogne to England. 
 
 My next journey was to make a visitation of the Brittany chap- 
 laincies ; crossing in a fearful night of hurricane and darkness from 
 Southampton to St. Malo by the most wretched line of boats that 
 ply across the Channel. Confirmation work awaited me at Dinan. 
 I drove out one day to see a typical Breton farmhouse, and was 
 interested to find that the sleeping arrangements very much re- 
 sembled those of Holland. The Breton beds are like cupboards, 
 made of wood and gaily painted. Where the cupboard door should 
 be are curtains, and into the cupboard the occupant creeps. The 
 entrance is by no means the length of a person's body, the front 
 being partly closed on either side by panels. It is thus impossible 
 to remove a corpse from such beds after it has become rigid. A 
 settle is placed at the foot of these beds, which acts not only as a 
 step, but upon which the body is placed while pliant. 
 
 At Dinard I stayed with Mrs. Marshall, a sister of Lord Torrington,
 
 154 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1890 
 
 who died here recently. Her house is beautifully situated upon the 
 edge of the rocks, looking down into the bay and across to the 
 picturesque old St. Malo with its ancient, fortified walls. Here we 
 have a very good little church, in which I confirmed, the chaplains 
 of Dinan, St. Servan, and St. Malo being present. Chaplaincies 
 stand somewhat thick in this district, there being colonies of English 
 in each place. Parame has since then built a church, though it 
 never seemed to me that it was needed. 
 
 I returned as I came, by St. Malo and Southampton. These 
 Breton chaplaincies are out of my orbit and difficult of access. Had 
 I been Bishop of St. Heliers, of which there was some idea at 
 one time, the proposal being to cut the Channel Islands adrift from 
 the Diocese of Winchester, this would have been my nearest field 
 of work. I am very thankful that the care of the churches in Jersey 
 and Guernsey were not added to the care of all my Anglican churches 
 through the nations of North and Central Europe.
 
 CHAPTER XVI 
 
 Copenhagen — Thorwaldsen's Museum — Museum of Northern Antiquities— Con- 
 firmation at Stockholm under severe difficulties — Consecration at Christiania 
 of the first Anglican church built in Norway — The Viking shiji — A Norwegian 
 stave church with old farm and village buildings — The boat that saved 
 Nansen's life — A Norwegian millionaire— Stavenger Cathedral — The liar- 
 danger fiord — Bergen — Sad-hearted emigrants. 
 
 IN the autumn of 1890 I went to Scandinavia. I advi.se no one 
 who dislikes dust to travel as I did in September— when the 
 weather is dry — from Rotterdam to Hamburg. The accumulated 
 dust of the summer weather covered the carriage from roof to 
 wheels, and made them look as if they had passed through a four- 
 teen hours' snowstorm. The heat was so intense that we were 
 stifled, the dust making it impossible to open the windows. That 
 was a hideous fourteen hours, for being in a through carriage we 
 were hooked on behind at every addition made to our long train. 
 It was refreshing to pass through watery Hamburg, glittering cool 
 and beautiful beneath its wealth of electric light. In that day there 
 were no dining-cars upon the Hamburg express, and as the refresh- 
 ment rooms at Hamburg were closed, one had to content oneself 
 with the serpent's food which those fourteen hours had so plenti- 
 fully supplied. 
 
 Upon this occasion I travelled to Denmark by Kiel and Korsor, 
 a passage that can be tumbly, as I know from experience, and which 
 was so this time. Denmark is always quiet, kindly, clean, and 
 homely. The coffee, rolls, and eggs at the little snug station of 
 Korsor redeemed the fourteen hours' dust-eating of the previous 
 day. One of my fellow-passengers was an Englishman travelling 
 for an electric firm, and hoping to get the lighting of Copenhagen. 
 Many German firms were against the three competing English firms. 
 Copenhagen had selected these three, and Siemens lS: Co. of Berlin. 
 It was almost certain that Siemens would get the contract. 'I his 
 man told me then-fourteen years ago-what Mr. Chamberlain has 
 
 1 55
 
 156 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1890 
 
 been endeavouring lately to impress upon us, that we allow all work 
 to slip into German hands. It would have been better to have got 
 the Copenhagen contract even at a loss, as then we should probably 
 have secured the lighting of the other Scandinavian capitals — Stock- 
 holm, Christiania, and Goteborg. He further told me that we had no 
 stations of our electric light to show the Scandinavians, whereas the 
 Germans had many. He added that Englishmen would not travel 
 or take the pains the Germans did ; that their money terms were 
 easier than ours ; that they took bills where we demanded ready 
 money. All these things are against us, and put us out of foreign 
 markets. This is exactly what Eraser tells us in his Jiea/ Siberia. 
 America and Germany are pushing in everywhere; England is 
 nowhere. 
 
 Upon arrival at Copenhagen I stayed out at Hellerup with our 
 chaplain, Mr. Moore. In the evening the chaplain gave a large 
 reception, several Danes amongst the company. Our Ambassador, 
 Sir Claud Macdonald, whose guest I was to have been, was unable 
 to be present in consequence of illness in his house. On Sunday I 
 preached the harvest festival sermon, the beautiful church looking 
 its best under the festive decorations. I lunched afterwards with 
 the Thorntons, he attached to the Embassy, and a relation of 
 Bishop Heber. 
 
 The Danes place small boxes on poles in their gardens, like tiny 
 dovecots, to attract the starlings to build. In return for the accom- 
 modation the starlings are expected to keep the crops clear of 
 insects. Hellerup is situated upon the low, raking shore of the 
 Sound, from whence the coast of Sweden is plainly seen. 
 
 In dining with Mr. (now Sir Edward) Goschen — whose nephew 
 accompanied me upon this journey — we had much talk of South 
 America, which he knows, and of the financial crisis in that country .- 
 Upon this occasion I made my first visit to the Thorwaldsen 
 Museum. Not only are nearly all his sculptures here, making a 
 vast collection, but, in a room by themselves, the furniture of his 
 house, his pictures, knick-knacks, and an old grandfather clock, the 
 case of which he made and painted when eleven years old. In this 
 room also stands his last unfinished piece, a bust of Luther, which 
 he was modelling in plaster when an invitation to dinner came. It 
 was so pressing that he could not refuse. He was very anxious to 
 finish the model, and was so irritated at the interruption that he 
 took the clay in his hand and threw it at the bust, where it still
 
 i89o] MUSEUM OF NORTHERN ANTIQUITIES 157 
 
 sticks, for being taken fatally ill upon his return home, he never 
 touched it again. "The Triumph of Alexander" is a magnificent 
 piece, extending for many yards upon the gallery wall. One of his 
 most beautiful and best-known works is "Love's Seasons": (i) a 
 basket full of small children with wings, like cupids ; (2) Love 
 sends some of these flying from the basket ; (3) a woman carries 
 one thoughtfully by its wings; (4) one sits upon the back of a 
 middle-aged man, which seems to oppress him, as he sits wearily, 
 his head resting on his hand — these presumably the parents of the 
 urchins, and burdened with their care; (5) a cupid is sent flying 
 back to its basket by the old man, for all is over, life's loves and 
 trials alike ended. A Mercury is an exquisite sculpture. A statue 
 of himself leaning upon "Hope" is a powerful piece. Poor 
 Thorwaldsen had for many years so to lean, and probably chiselled 
 it out of the reality of his bitter experience. A happy pendant to 
 it is a picture of his " Return to Copenhagen in 1848," representing 
 his magnificent reception as he lands in the harbour, the King 
 coming in his state barge to meet his boat and welcome him to his 
 native land. He is buried in the open courtyard of the museum, 
 round which the gallery runs. It is a simple, flat grave, covered 
 with ivy ; no stone or word records the sleeper beneath. The 
 museum is his record and his tombstone, " Si quccris monumentum, 
 circumspice." 
 
 Then to the Museum of Northern Antiquities, the finest thing of 
 its kind in the world. Du Chaillu has written two volumes upon it. 
 Runic stones of rough, savage granite stand at the entrance. In 
 the lobby is one of the fossilized ash heaps cast out of ancient lake 
 dwellings into the water, consisting of all kinds of rubbish, oyster 
 shells, bones, ashes, odds and ends of all kinds. As the section is 
 cut one can read the story of the heap, which is some six feet thick. 
 The Stone Age is splendidly represented ; case after case of axes, 
 hammers, spear-heads, all shapes, sizes, devices. Then the Bronze 
 Age, ornaments of all kinds, necklaces, rings, bangles, etc. Coffins 
 dug up in the Scandinavian bogs of Jutland ; the bodies, wrapped in 
 coarse canvas and quite black, are perfect. These coffins are half- 
 hollowed trunks of trees, the other half forming the lid. An extra- 
 ordinarily finely carved carriage found in Jutland is most interesting. 
 It is like a small wagon, with low straight sides, and decorated 
 with metal. I suspect we in the east of England got the shape of 
 our field wagons from these Jutland carriages, for they are peculiar
 
 158 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1890 
 
 to East Anglia; as we also got the shape of our tumbrels — a 
 still older form of cart — from the Roman chariot. The ecclesias- 
 tical section upstairs is large and rich ; church doors highly though 
 rudely carved, altars, vestments, chests, pastoral staves, the crosier 
 of the last Archbishop of Lund, the enamelling of which is very 
 beautiful. 
 
 The Danes have an excellent plan of scaffolding for building and 
 repairing houses. The men work in a wooden cradle, which runs 
 up and down upon strong timbers, can be fixed at any altitude, and 
 moved in either direction horizontally. This is much safer than our 
 system of tall ladders and unprotected planks. Horses given to 
 biting are indicated by a wisp of straw fastened to their bridle, their 
 owners being compelled, by law, so to mark them. 
 
 After a lovely passage of one hour and fifteen minutes across the 
 Sound to Malmo in Sweden, we left for Stockholm at 10 p.m. 
 Harvest was busily going on, and second crops of hay and clover 
 being dried upon the great wooden screens used all over Scan- 
 dinavia. At Stockholm I looked at rooms for a Sailors' Institute. 
 They were well placed on the harbour near the Wilson boats. This 
 is an important centre of English sailor Hfe, and such an institution 
 is much needed. Here I confirmed. A daughter of Mr. Axel 
 Dixon, of Shepsta, was one of the candidates. She had come to 
 Stockholm, a journey of seventy miles, every Saturday since Christ- 
 mas to attend the confirmation classes on Sunday, returning on the 
 Monday ! Where can such a record of self-denying, persevering 
 churchmanship be shown in England? Are not these continental 
 EngHsh, many of them, worthy of the long and trying journeys 
 which their Bishop has to take for their spiritual welfare ? 
 
 It was during this visit to Stockholm I commenced a friendship 
 with Sir Francis and Lady Plunkett, then at the Embassy, which 
 was most happily and pleasantly continued and increased else- 
 where through the rest of their diplomatic life. These northern 
 English are very appreciative of episcopal care. Upon my last 
 visit to Sweden, a family whose children I had confirmed at 
 Goteberg met my train as it stopped in passing their country 
 station, and presented me with pictures of their neighbourhood. 
 Upon this occasion, all the candidates I had confirmed came to the 
 station to see me off, in a pouring wet night, and kindly presented 
 me with an album of Stockholm views. 
 
 The line from Stockholm to Christiania runs to the north of Lake
 
 i89o] THE VIKING SHIP 159 
 
 Wenern, falling into the valley of the Strommen, near Christiania. 
 No traveller visits Christiania without going up to Holnienkullcn. 
 It is an hotel, built upon fir-clad hills, commanding fine views of 
 the Christiania Fiord and city. Hither we were carried off almost 
 immediately upon arrival by Mr. Mitchell, the Consul-Gencral for 
 Norway, and here we lunched. The air on Holmenkollcn is 
 lovely, the view vast and varied — islands, ships, forest ; with houses of 
 all colours and shapes dotting hills and valleys. North-west the view 
 stretches into Tellemarken, the snow mountains of which, in clear 
 weather, can be distinctly seen. The German Emperor when here 
 was, of course, taken up to HolmenkoUen. He opened the new 
 road which is called Wilhelmstrasse. A nearer and more easily 
 obtained view is from the reservoir. 
 
 On 29 September I consecrated the first Anglican church built in 
 Norway, and dedicated it to St. Edmund, King of East Anglia and 
 martyred by Scandinavians, This will be the church of Norway's 
 English Queen. It is not large, but in architecture characteristically 
 Norse. The Norwegian Bishop of Christiania was present in his 
 robes, wearing his pectoral cross, as also the Dean ; both took part 
 in the procession, as did the Governor and other civil authorities. 
 The Bishop and Dean were provided with seats in the chancel. 
 The service was good, and all seemed interested and attentive. 
 I preached an historical sermon upon St. Edmund's life and death. 
 After the service we sat down, a party of eighty, at the Grand Hotel. 
 All the Government officials were present, and many other Nor- 
 wegians. The speeches made and "scalds" drunk were endless. 
 I had to speak, of course, and told of my intercourse and friendship 
 with many Norwegian missionaries in Natal and Zululand, giving 
 incidents of their lives and work in South Africa. This pleased the 
 Norwegians vastly, some being known to those present. Several 
 came up to me afterwards, and thanked me for what I had said of 
 their country, and of their countrymen making such excellent 
 colonists. By 7 p.m. of that same day three Christiania papers had 
 full accounts of the proceedings of the day, which for Norway was 
 considered wonderful. I also confirmed a few days later in this new 
 and very pretty little church. 
 
 On market days small greenhouses on wheels are used here to 
 shelter the flowers from the cold. 
 
 The Viking ship is one of the sights of Christiania; deeply interest- 
 ing and instructive. It is housed in a large shed, and is in every
 
 i6o CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1S90 
 
 way unique. The enormous length surprised me, nearly seventy feet, 
 and so high that a wooden gallery is erected along which visitors 
 walk in order to look upon its deck. It is of oak and black with 
 age, clinker-built, with an enormous rudder, shipped on the star- 
 board (steer-board) side, and not absolutely therefore at the stern. 
 A stepped plank, which is perfect, was used to reach the deck. The 
 dead Viking was laid to rest in the midst of his vessel, which is 
 roofed amidships with heavy, rough, rounded timber. He was 
 buried — for sporting purposes in his next estate — with his 
 horses and dogs, whose skulls and bones are preserved, with 
 quantities of most interesting relics in glass cases arranged around 
 the shed. Even the rough wooden beds were found, and are 
 preserved beneath the ship. The rowlocks, thirty-two in number, 
 are round holes in the ship's sides ; the oars eighteen feet long, of 
 which there are many strung up on the walls of the shed. Small 
 boats, which are also well preserved, were left upon the deck, pre- 
 sumably for landing or preservation in case of wreck. A host of 
 things are piled behind railings, which could easily be stolen, and 
 ought to be better protected. However, Scandinavia is honest, 
 scarcely knowing as yet, happily, that there are thieves in the 
 world, and trusts accordingly. Cauldrons, wooden spades, dish 
 platters, and plates of wood are tossed about in primitive confusion. 
 In glass cases upon the walls are specimens of canvas, cordage, bast 
 mat, and peacock feathers— for it is said that these wild pirates kept 
 peacocks ! Even the old Viking's bones are encased in glass, and 
 doctors say that he must have suffered from rheumatism, poor old 
 soul, for the leg bones are much disfigured, as any unskilled eye can 
 see ! The ship was dug up in the Sand Fiord, a branch of the 
 Christiania Fiord, five miles from the mouth of the Gommen; it was 
 found in blue clay, which accounts for its perfect preservation. 
 
 Oscar's Hal is another of the sights of Christiania which should 
 by no means be omitted. There at Bygdo, in the grounds of the 
 mimic palace by the waterside, brought and placed there by the 
 King, are to be seen many interesting specimens of the ancient 
 wooden buildings of Norway. Several extremely quaint Norsk 
 cottages and farm buildings from Tellemarken, forming a most 
 picturesque little Norwegian village, in the midst of which stands 
 the old Stave Church brought down from Gol. It has the usual 
 high pointed roof with carvings of horse-heads, and is very dark inside, 
 for there are no windows, only small openings aloft. A veranda
 
 i89o] NORWEGIAN STAVE KIRKS ,6, 
 
 runs all round. Roth exterior and interior are of dark wood, brown 
 almost to black with age, for these churches were the first built upon 
 the introduction of Christianity into Norway, and are therefore nearly 
 one thousand years old. There are no seats, only an old settle, 
 carved and heavy, called the " bride and bridegroom seat." The 
 altar stands in a mysteriously dark little apse, and over it a faded 
 fresco. The roof is supported by strong, round, wooden pillars. 
 The small quaint peasants' cottages scattered around are worth care- 
 ful inspection. Upon entering by a low, heavy, square door, one 
 feels that one is not somehow in a Christian abode, and is reminded 
 of a Zulu hut squared and made of heavy timber, and tiiat the life 
 of the old Tellemarkian must have been as rough and savage as that 
 of the Zulus. The darkness is the same, the fireplace is the same, 
 the smell is the same— it is heathen. A square heavy stone stands 
 raised in the midst for the fire, the smoke of which escaped through 
 a hole in the roof. Exactly above it a huge wooden crane swings 
 over the firestone which carried the cauldron on and off the fire. 
 Bed bunks, of huge dimensions, stand by the walls on either side. 
 The roof is of sods of turf; clover and grass growing as freely upon 
 it as in a field. The farm buildings are most picturesque. The farm- 
 house is reached by a rude stairway, has beds or bunks in it ; furni- 
 ture of old Norsk type ; tankards, pewter plates, such as we used in 
 kitchens in former days ; a distaff, etc. There are several of these 
 quaint carved wooden churches in Norway ; the guide-books only 
 mention five, I think, but when I went into Tellemarken some 
 years after this I heard of many more hidden away in small 
 out-of-the-way villages. The fear is that they may be destroyed 
 and their place taken by the ugly, square, whitewashed churches 
 such as one sees at Borgund standing near and disfiguring the fine 
 old Stave Church of that place. There is this one brought here 
 from Gol, one taken from Norway by Frederick the Great, and 
 erected in Silesia ; one at Hitterdal, in situ ; another, not I believe 
 in situ, in the grounds of Mr. Gale, the American Consul, near 
 Bergen ; the fifth at Borgund, near Laerdalsoren on the Sogner 
 Fiord. In the museum at Christiania we were shown the small 
 rough boat made of mere sticks picked up on the shore, and of 
 bits of canvas sewn together, m which Nansen made his remark- 
 able voyage of two days at the end of his journey across Green- 
 land. This boat saved his life. In the same part of the museum 
 are ancient sledges painted and gilded, also quaint old harness 
 
 M
 
 r62 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1S90 
 
 ornaments, yokes, and collars; horse-heads of dragon shape, which 
 adorn everything in Norway from sledges and horse collars to house 
 gables and church roofs. 
 
 We went out, at the Consul-Oeneral's invitation, to spend a few 
 days with him in his fishing-box at Drobak upon the Christiania 
 Fiord, where the passage narrows to two miles. Here, and all over 
 the fiord, are large lofty ice stores, the property of a Mr. Parr, a 
 descendant of the Parr of Life Pills fame. The ice is stored in the 
 winter, and shipped in vessels which are placed under the ice slides, 
 down which the blocks are run into the holds of the ships. 
 Much, perhaps most, of the Wenham Lake ice, so called, and sold 
 in England, comes from Parr's ice stores here ; indeed, at one time 
 these stores were called " the Wenham ice stores." The weather 
 now became very cold, for the summer was past, and when it is 
 gone the winter follows with little or no autumn. What falls here 
 as rain is snow on the hills. Winter comes in these northern 
 regions with a suddenness that gives no warning. The Consul- 
 General tells a story from Lapland, a country which he knows. A 
 Lapp came from the far north in the early summer to the nearest 
 priest carrying a bag upon his back. The priest asked him what it 
 contained. His father's bones, he replied, which he had brought to 
 the nearest church for burial. " But what have you done with the 
 rest of the body?" inquired the priest. "Oh," said the Lapp, "we 
 are much troubled with foxes in our neighbourhood during the 
 winter, and I used it for baiting my traps." A Drobak gentleman 
 put a steamer at our disposal and took us up several pretty branches 
 of the fiord, where we did some fishing. It would have been a 
 pleasant trip had the weather not been so wild and cold. Even 
 upon the hills about Christiania snow had fallen, and it was becom- 
 ing very winterly. 
 
 Upon leaving Drobak, we fetched a compass round Norway by 
 steamer ; it was impossible to go to the western fiords by land, the 
 Valders route being already blocked with snow. The steamer 
 touched at several rather quaintly pretty places. Kragero, in a 
 wooded, rocky bay, where is a wonderful fish-market, lobsters and 
 crabs by the ton. Like a small Malta, Kragero has no streets, only 
 steep, rocky passage-ways. Arendal is another pretty place to put 
 into, situated upon several fine arms of the main fiord. This 
 Norwegian coast-line is sici generis. There is nothing like it else- 
 where in all the world ; endless rocky waterways, houses perched
 
 i890] FLEKKEFIORD AND KGGKRSUNI) 
 
 !()■; 
 
 upon them everywhere, wliiie, red, yellow, with ihcir small and 
 brilliantly green pastures running down to the water. One wonders 
 how it is possible to thread a steamer through the narrow passa-'cs. 
 Again and again no way out seems possible, a mere rock-bound, 
 apparently tightly-girded lock, and yet the opening, however small, 
 always comes — as with life's difficulties— when one can get no 
 further. The passage is at times so close that we nearly touched the 
 rocks on either side, and could with ease jump out upon them. 
 
 The Scandinavians are very kind to animals and l)irds. In winter 
 they feed them, and on Christmas Eve especially it is the custom for 
 each family to put out a wheat-sheaf that the birds may enjoy a 
 Christmas dinner as well as themselves. And wheat-sheaves, it must 
 be remembered, are scarce in barren Norway. 
 
 Flekkefiord is one of the prettiest points upon this circumnaviga- 
 tion of South Norway. Fine mountains enclose it on nearly every 
 side, the small town with its brilliantly painted wooden houses con- 
 trasting gaily with the tremendous precipices of black, frowning 
 rock. Walruses and eider duck are not unfrequent on this part of 
 the Norwegian coast. We saw one near the Flekkefiord, and 
 several patches of eider. Lone lighthouses with detached cottages 
 near by are constantly passed. Sometimes the cottage itself is the 
 lighthouse, one window being especially fitted for lighting purposes. 
 It must be a dismal existence, the black savage rocks around so 
 infinitely lonesome, no vestige of vegetation within sight, and for 
 weeks and months of ail-but night little or no access to or from 
 fellow-humanity. 
 
 At Eggersund passengers who do not like exposure to this, the 
 most stormy part of the Skaggerak — where the sea, like the wicked, 
 is never at rest — disembark, and take to a small three-foot-six 
 railway running to Stavanger, leaving the steamer to brave the outer 
 passage. The towny village takes its name from the abundance of 
 plovers' eggs found on the moorlands around. It is a silent, 
 depressing, tidy, but dead-and-buried little place. A lane of wooden 
 houses, all painted out of but two paint-pots, light and dark brown, 
 with stairs leading up to the doors, such as are used to reach a hay 
 loft. At the end is the wharf, choked— as all wharves in Scandi- 
 navia — with barrels ; at the other end a tiny railway station, choked 
 with more barrels. The carriages of the toy railway are lighted by 
 half a lamp at each end of the compartment, for Norwegians, in 
 view of their long, dark winters, are careful of their oil. 'I'he drean-
 
 i64 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1890 
 
 ness of the scenery upon this httle railway passes description, 
 running now and again on the margin of utterly barren lakes, now 
 and again on the utterly barren and dismal seashore, the interstices 
 being filled with erratic blocks— as geologists call them— dropped 
 from the end of glaciers, when they reached the sea and fell to 
 pieces. The wealth of the district may be gauged from the fact 
 that the mate of the steamer we had just quitted pointed out a small 
 house in a cove as we passed along the coast, and lowering his voice 
 to a respectful tone, bordering almost upon awe, said, " There in 
 that house lives one of our most successful traders ; he is said to be 
 worth 300,000 kroner (;^i5oo), now he stays at home." He turned 
 to us with a look of triumphant pride that seemed to ask if anything 
 in our " fiscal policy " could match it. If he has invested it in 
 Norwegian Government Stock it brings him in about jQ6q a year — 
 a millionaire in those parts. 
 
 Enormous quantities of lobsters are sent from this coast to 
 England in vessels constructed for the purpose ; they admit the sea- 
 water, which keeps the lobsters alive. If the voyage is short and 
 favourable, they rise and fall in the water ; if not they die, and, 
 sinking to the bottom, crush their lower brethren to death. 
 
 The cathedral of Stavanger is, for this country, a considerable 
 length, with small Norman windows. The east end is decorated 
 style ; where transepts would be, are two small turrets running from 
 the base to above the roof, round below and pointed above. In the 
 eastern gable is a fine rose window, the gable flanked at the angles 
 by two square towers, pointed. 
 
 From Stavanger it was a wild, stormy passage into the Hardanger 
 Fiord, on a bleak, black day. But we were too late in the season, 
 as the mate of the Folgerfonder said when he saw us come on 
 board. " Why, it is funny to see you here now : all your people are 
 gone back to England long ago." All very grand and delightful in 
 pleasant summer weather, but now the lofty summits dismally 
 wrapped and wreathed in clouds ; clouds, mountains, and water all 
 equally black as ink. At this time only two steamers plied on the 
 Hardanger Fiord, and another was being built at Bergen. 
 
 The next morning broke fine and bright ; the rain of the previous 
 day had covered all the mountains with newly-fallen snow. When 
 I came on deck we were passing down the narrow, beautiful branch 
 of the fiord which ends in Odde ; each side lined with precipitous 
 mountains glittering with new snow in the early sunshine, with
 
 I890] THE HARDANGER FIORD ,65 
 
 glimpses here and there, through openings, of the great Folgerfonder 
 Glacier, the largest in Europe. We had taken on board, somewhere 
 in the early morning, the Norwegian pastor of Ullesvang. He told 
 me that he was on his way to a wedding at Odde, one of his parishes. 
 We use his church there in the summer for our service, Odde being 
 one of my many summer chai)laincies which arc si)ringing up all 
 over this Northern Switzerland from Chrisliansund to the Norlli 
 Cape, He seemed delighted when I told him that we ought to 
 build an English church at Odde. The hotels at Odde were all shut 
 up, so we did not stay. 
 
 Returning down the Odde branch of the Hardanger, we touched 
 at several pretty places. Lofthus— which the German Emperor 
 admires very much — is a beautiful spot, with a fine waterfall of more 
 than a thousand feet, descending from the mountains behind it. 
 The depth of water in these fiords is, as a rule, the same as the 
 height of the mountains bordering them. The Ullesvang pastor 
 told us a strange story of an English girl of twenty who had come 
 to his house that week, having walked for many days. She stated 
 that the doctors advised her to walk for her health, and that she was 
 on her way to Bergen. He took her in till the steamer arrived, as it 
 was impossible for a girl to wander about alone in that wild region. 
 She had nothing with her but what she wore. I had serious thoughts 
 of telegraphing for Lady Vincent and her Girls' Friendly Aid ! 
 
 The Hardanger female head-dress is white and ample-flowing. A 
 stiff forehead band in front, highly and profusely starched and 
 goffered. 
 
 At the intersection of the four branches of the Hardanger Fiord 
 the snow mountains — as they then were — showed up grandly. 
 
 Utne is very prettily placed upon a promontory. Steaming into 
 the Ulvik branch through a narrow strait between high precipices we 
 left the steamer, and taking ponies rode over the hills to Graven, 
 and so on to Eide. It was a lovely, warm, sunny October day, the 
 route abounding in waterfalls. We found a solitary fisher-Englishman 
 at Moelands Hotel. He had been driven down from the Sogne 
 Fiord, where, he reported, the snow had been lying a foot deep. 
 The Valders route from Christiania to the Sogne Fiord, which we 
 had intended taking, he reported so snowed up and frozen that even 
 Norwegian ponies could not cross that way. It was well that we had 
 not attempted it so late in the year. From Eide to Voss Vangen is 
 a pleasant drive of some four hours, passing the Skierfoss on the
 
 i66 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1890 
 
 way. The road crosses the fall, and at this season is dashed by the 
 spray. 
 
 From Voss Vangen we drove fifty miles by stolkj^rre — a species 
 of small wagon — to Gudvangen on the Sogne Fiord. The scenery 
 is poor till Stalheim is reached, from which point the view down 
 the Ncerodal, or narrow dale, is very fine. It would increase the 
 beauty of this view up the Gudvangen branch if the Sogne Fiord 
 could be seen ; the water used to come up the valley, but not now ; 
 it is hidden by a projecting flank of the mountains, which here are 
 very precipitous. The mouth of the valley is guarded by two 
 enormous bastions of granite smoothed by glacial action ; that to the 
 left is called Jordalsnut. The descent from the Stalheim Hotel is 
 by a series of zigzags which at each turn bring one of two waterfalls 
 face to face with the traveller — the Silver foss and the Stalheim 
 foss. The night was falling as we reached the bottom of the 
 Stalheim Kleve : it falls just one hour earlier in that dark valley, 
 which the sun never reaches at all for eight months in the year. 
 The water of the river flowing down the Noerodal is a wondrous 
 transparent green, caused by the pure water flowing over masses of 
 white felspar. Even the summer tourists find Gudvangen depress- 
 ing ; at this season of the year it is positively terrifying. 
 
 Here we slept, and awoke to find that much snow had fallen in 
 the night. Through snow and cloud we could see how really grand 
 the scenery of Gudvangen is — mountains all round, from which 
 descend waterfalls, thousands of feet in height, into the deep 
 precipice-locked fiord. A little pathway creeps under the blasted 
 rocks on the left-hand side of the fiord, set with iron stanchions 
 and rods to guide pedestrians in mist or darkness, for no wheels can 
 pass this way. We were evidently in for wintry weather, and it was 
 no use stopping. The natives all shrugged their shoulders and bade 
 us prepare for the worst. There was nothing to be done but get 
 back to Voss as soon as possible. The difficulty was to do so. As 
 we approached the zigzags up to Stalheim the snow came down, 
 increasing to a blinding storm. The trees were snow-laden, and the 
 landscape looked like the depth of January. Our skydgut had to 
 keep getting down to break the hard snow out of the horse's shoes. 
 This he did in a very primitive fashion, taking up the horse's hoofs 
 and knocking them against the shaft. This was all very well at first, 
 but when the ice had formed hard in the hoof he groped about in 
 the snow for a big stone and pegged away till bit by bit he got it
 
 i«9o] SAD-HEARTED EMIGRANTS ,67 
 
 clear. It was a long and trying fifty miles, and right glad were we 
 at about 6 p.m. to see the kilometres decrease upon the stones by 
 the wayside, till at last the houses of Voss ajjpearcd in the distance 
 through the dusk. Our skydgut was a delightful boy, and had made 
 these weary one hundred miles lighter by his cheerful, civil, and 
 intelligent companionship. His name, Botolf Ullcstad, of Voss 
 Vangen, about eighteen years old, speaking little English, but very 
 correctly, and wanting to know more. He could not get English 
 books, but possessed /a^r^?^ Faithful. I promised to send him some- 
 thing to read, and advised him to exercise his English as much as 
 possible with tourists. 
 
 There is a small railway from Voss to Bergen, by which we 
 travelled in sleet and snow, able to sec nothing of the country by 
 the way. Bergen, always wet, always raining — so much so that it is 
 said a horse will shy in the streets in passing a person without an 
 open umbrella — was a waterspout ; its roofs waterfalls, its streets 
 cascades. 
 
 A large number of emigrants were going in our steamer, the 
 El Dorado^ from Stavanger — at which we touched on the way — to 
 Liverpool, en route for Chicago. I stood amongst them as their old 
 painted chests, upon which they had opened their baby eyes in 
 their distant fiord or mountain homes, went up on the crane to be 
 swung into the hold. They stood looking mutely at it all, as if 
 going to be hanged in like manner themselves. " Johannes," I 
 heard one say to another, " I say ' farvel ' ; have a good journey and 
 come back to us again." The face and the grasp of the hand told 
 much more than the words spoken. The wrench from the old home, 
 friends, relations, country ; all the untried difificulties, troubles, hard- 
 ships, loneliness of the strange country and the new life. To many 
 no return, no meeting again. As the steamer slowly warped away 
 from the quay a half-hearted cheer was raised by those on shore, but 
 no cheer came back. There were sad homes tliat night in Norway, 
 and sad hearts on board the El Dorado too. 
 
 So we crossed with these heavy-hearted emigrants to Hull, and 
 brought this most snowy, winterly Norwegian journey to an end. 
 Tourists see Norway in scorching June, July, and August. We saw 
 it in its other nine months' dress, and it was not becoming.
 
 CHAPTER XVII 
 
 A severe winter in Western Europe — Fifth annual Conference at Wiesbaden — 
 Presentation of new pastoral staff — Dinner at the Grand Ducal Palace, 
 Darmstadt — Confirmation of consumptive patients at Davos — An old bilingual 
 Bury St. Edmunds woman — Consecration of English church at Dieppe — 
 Cession of Heligoland; its ancient titles to land — "The pleasantest people 
 in Europe." 
 
 MY last journey this year was to North Germany, crossing to 
 Rotterdam on 17 November. We had much difficulty in 
 making the mouth of the Maes, so thick was the fog ; we had to 
 lie off the Dutch coast sounding for some time. The entrance to 
 the Maes is very difficult to make in thick weather. It is marked 
 by two wooden erections, not easily discerned under such circum- 
 stances. We were, in consequence, late into Rotterdam, missing all 
 early trains eastward, and I did not reach Hanover till three o'clock 
 next morning. Here I confirmed and left for Dresden, where two 
 confirmations awaited me, one at our own, the other at the American 
 church, besides other work. 
 
 From Dresden I went to Cassel by — to me — a new route. At 
 Oberoblingen are two lakes, one salt, the other fresh, a phenomenon 
 difficult to account for. The route lay through Eilsleben, Luther's 
 birthplace. The winter, which I began up in the far north at 
 Michaelmas, followed me to Thuringen, where there was snow ; 
 indeed, not many months of 1890 were without snow to me. At 
 Cassel I confirmed and preached for the Continental Bishopric 
 Fund, returning by way of Hanover. In Holland I found all flags 
 at half-mast in consequence of the death of the King. I was not 
 sorry to be clear of the Continent in such a winter, the paddle- 
 boxes of the Harwich boat being cased in ice, and her decks 
 covered with snow. 
 
 Hibernating in England till 12 March, 1891, I sallied forth again. 
 No cabs could be got in London that morning in consequence of 
 
 168
 
 i89i] A NEW PASTORy\L STAFF 169 
 
 the frost and snow of that persistent winter, which, driving me from 
 Norway at Michaehnas, now blocked my way in March to Victoria 
 Station en route for Paris. In consequence of the blizzard the 
 boat-train to Dover was almost empty, boats to Calais having 
 battled in the hurricane of wind and snow for sixteen hours between 
 the two ports. We got over, however, better than that, and it was 
 well that we did, for at 3 p.m. I had a confirmation at Calais, 
 where for forty years, from the peace of 181 5 to 1865, the 
 three thousand English lace-makers were left without a chaplain ! 
 Another confirmation at Bruges followed the next day, with con- 
 firmation and sermons on the Sunday in all three of the Paris 
 churches, and also at Versailles. Lord and Lady Brassey were at 
 the confirmation of their daughter at St. George's Church, having 
 come over for it from England. 
 
 From Paris I went to Brussels, Bruges, Lille, and Croix for con- 
 firmation and work of various kinds, and then returned via Calais 
 to England, snowstorms and intense cold pursuing me almost to 
 the bitter end. 
 
 On Saturday, 5 May, I was again on my way for a somewhat 
 long visitation, and in a dense fog reached Antwerp after long and 
 tedious delay. The Scheldt was blocked by a broken - backed 
 steamer from Bordeaux, which had run across a sandbank in the 
 fog, and a White Star Liner full of passengers was also stuck hard and 
 fast, so that traffic was much impeded, and I did not reach Antwerp 
 till after the morning service, at which I was to have preached. 
 However, I was in time for the confirmation in the afternoon, and 
 gave them an evening sermon instead. 
 
 From Antwerp I went to Coblenz en route to our annual 
 Conference at Wiesbaden. Upon this occasion my good chaplains 
 presented me with a new pastoral staff to take the place of that 
 stolen from me in Switzerland. It is of silver, set with stones, not 
 too heavy, made in sections, and portable for travelling. Very kind 
 words were spoken at its presentation, which I appreciated and 
 reciprocated. I received an invitation from the Grand Duke of 
 Hesse to dinner at Darmstadt, whither I w^as bound upon leaving 
 Wiesbaden. I dined with a German gentleman. Von Schmerling, 
 who was Governor of Dantzig, and served through the Franco- 
 German War. He told me that when an officer friend of the 
 Emperor Frederick saw him at Potsdam three days before his death, 
 he said to him, " We are all so glad to see your Majesty back in the
 
 I70 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1^91 
 
 old palace, and hope you may live long to inhabit it." The dying 
 Emperor put his hands before his face, and when he removed them 
 the tears were running down his cheeks. He then Ufted his hands 
 and looked to heaven. Unable to speak, he indicated he would 
 soon be gone. 
 
 Upon arrival at Darmstadt I found a carriage from the palace 
 with the Hofmarschal awaiting me. When I reached the Schloss 
 I found the ladies and gentlemen of the Court already assembled 
 and awaiting the entrance of the Grand Duke and Empress 
 Frederick, who was staying there. Almost immediately the Empress 
 entered, leaning upon the arm of the Grand Duke, and followed 
 by Princess Margarita of Prussia, Princess Heinrich, Princess 
 Alix (now Empress of Russia), and Prince Albert of Schleswig- 
 Holstein. The Empress was looking much better than when I 
 had last seen her in Berlin. She came across to where I was 
 standing, and with the usual kindly welcome and warm greeting 
 asked where I had come from. The Empress inquired very fully 
 into the working of the Girls' Friendly Society, which I do not 
 think she quite understood at that time. When telling the Empress 
 about my pastoral staff, presented to me at Wiesbaden, Prince 
 Louis said he did not know that English bishops used them, and 
 asked upon what occasions. I told him at confirmations, consecra- 
 tion of churches, and other functions. He told me of his Russian 
 journey, the marriage of Princess Alix to the Czarewitch being, 
 as it was generally supposed, in course of arrangement. Princess 
 Margaret told me of her recent visit to Paris with her mother, the 
 Empress Frederick. She also spoke of Sandringham with much 
 affection, adding that she was always very happy there. The 
 Empress Frederick, in reply to my inquiry whether anything further 
 had been done to our church at BerHn since I was there, told me 
 that a mosaic from Venice had been placed over the altar. " My 
 husband intended doing this," and then she paused and shook her 
 head. The windows were not yet put up. When talking to Prince 
 Louis of Hesse about Moscow and Trytyakoff's gallery of pictures, 
 we were doubting as to the artist of a certain picture, upon which 
 the Empress Frederick, who had been listening to our conversation, 
 supplied it at once. She was thoroughly up to most things in the 
 artistic world. 
 
 In the drawing-room after dinner a young officer in the uniform 
 of the German Red Hussars came up and spoke to me, drawing my
 
 i89i] DARMSTADT -BADEN -KRKIBURC. 171 
 
 attention to two pictures of Gravclotte and Slivnitza. lie then 
 spoke of English bishops, adding that lie was educated at Charter- 
 house. From his uniform I had taken him for a (lerinan. He 
 evidently saw this, and said that he was brought up in England, 
 and wished he was back there at school again, as there was nothing 
 like an English public school. This puzzled me still more, and 
 I said, "I really do not know to whom I am speaking." lie 
 replied, " I am Prince Albert of Schleswig-Holstein ; my mother is 
 Princess Christian. I thought you did not know me, because (»f the 
 German uniform." We then, of course, talked of Windsor and 
 Cumberland Lodge, his home. Princess Heinrich spoke much 
 of Kiel, where she and Prince Heinrich live, and was much 
 interested to find that I knew it. I said I had intended calling 
 at the castle and paying my respects when last there, but was 
 pressed for time. She said it was very kind, and she hoped when 
 next there I would come and see her. 
 
 As upon a former occasion, I confirmed in the chapel of the old 
 palace candidates from Darmstadt, from Heidelberg College, Frank- 
 furt, etc. 
 
 From Darmstadt I went to Baden, where I stayed with Mr. 
 McCandless, an American, of the firm of Carnegie, Bessemer, ^: Co , 
 confirming his daughter upon this occasion. He had a Japanese 
 lad as footman, whom he brought from Japan, and who waited 
 in his Japanese dress. Mr. McCandless spoke of him as an excel- 
 lent Buddhist, walking in all the ordinances of his religion blame- 
 less, with no Buddhist temple or priest to help him to do so. Mr. 
 McCandless had a good stable of horses; he had trained two to 
 tandem work ; they took the zigzag of the Black Forest hills to per- 
 fection. He drove me down the Murgthal and round by Oos back 
 to Baden, their performance being faultless. 
 
 From Baden I went on to Freiburg for confirmation. Freiburg is 
 a great centre of the stork family. I am told they feed their young, 
 not only on fish, but frogs and snakes, which they not unfrequently 
 drop down the chimney upon which they build— to the great dis- 
 comfiture of the inhabitants. They have all left Freiburg this 
 season; the people say that it portends war, or some other national 
 disaster. It was pouring with rain when we came out after the 
 confirmation. Our carriage did not come for us, and I suggested 
 that it had been taken by some one to get home in, adding that m 
 such weather the act was quite justifiable. The chaplain gravely
 
 172 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1S91 
 
 said, "That is a very dangerous doctrine to preach." On which 
 Colonel Roberts, the army crammer here, ever ready and quick at 
 repartee, turned to him and said, " You would practise it instead I 
 suppose." Colonel Roberts, who always abounded in stories, gave 
 an illustration of the acumen of the German postal authorities. A 
 friend of his in England, just starting for Norway, and with Norway 
 consequently much in his mind, addressed him, " Colonel Roberts, 
 Dreisamtrasse, Norway," and it reached him. 
 
 From Freiburg I went upon a sad errand to Davos, to confirm the 
 poor consumptive patients of that place. The climb from Land- 
 quart is no less than four thousand feet. I stayed with Mrs. John 
 Addington Symonds, the learned author himself being in Italy, 
 whither he always went in the summer, the state of his lungs com- 
 pelling him to live at Davos in the winter. In a snowstorm on 
 22 May, I confirmed the consumptive patients in the beautiful little 
 church, which, to the great comfort of the invalids, has been built 
 here. Davos is a sad place, full of melancholy stories which make 
 one's heart ache. 
 
 Upon leaving I went to stay with friends at Burier, upon the Lake 
 of Geneva, at a pretty old Swiss house with an uninterruptedly fine 
 view across the lake and up the Valais. From here I took my 
 confirmation and other work at Vevey, Clarens, and Geneva, and 
 then travelled direct via Paris to Caen in Normandy, for confirma- 
 tion. Here I came upon an old fellow-countywoman from Bury 
 St. Edmunds, who had lived so long in France that she wore a 
 Normandy cap, and had become bilingual. She said, " I have 
 bonne place in the hospice, but am now quatre-vingt-huit years — 
 time now que je depart. Ah ! Bury tres belle ville, mais je forget it 
 nearly now." 
 
 The best view of the wealth of ecclesiastical architecture in Caen 
 is to be obtained from a mound in the grounds of the Abbaye aux 
 Dames. The abbey stands close at hand, then St. Giles, which is 
 almost a ruin, then St. Pierre; and far beyond, the cathedral of 
 St. Etienne, where our conqueror is buried, his queen Matilda, who 
 built the cathedral, lying in the lady chapel. All these churches 
 stand in one continuous line. St. Pierre is the gem of Caen. The 
 tower possesses some rich lancets, and the spire surmounting it is 
 perfect ; the nave, highly decorated ; the Renaissance work in the 
 apse was then being restored by Italians. There was formerly a 
 canal close under the east end, over which the beautiful apse hung.
 
 iSgi] CAEN— HAVRE— HANOVER 173 
 
 as pictures show ; now filled in and robbing the pretty garden-close 
 of one of its most interesting features. Mr. Gilbert White, the 
 chaplain, a descendant of him of Selborne fame, told me that there 
 were six English boys at the French Lycee here ; in preparing one 
 of them for confirmation he asked him if he said his prayers 
 morning and evening. He said he did, and that the other English 
 boys did so too ; the French boys did not, but were called down- 
 stairs when dressed into a room where prayers were said in Latin. 
 The French boys did not laugh at our boys for this, though sharing 
 in common a large dormitory ; they seemed, on the contrary, to 
 respect them for it. 
 
 From Caen I went by sea to Havre, where I spent the Sunday 
 and preached for the bishopric, and then to Rouen for confirma- 
 tion, en route to Dieppe. Here I consecrated All .Saints' Church 
 and confirmed, leaving at night for Newhaven. One more journey 
 this year brought 1891 to its conclusion. I crossed from Har^vich 
 to Rotterdam in such a gale that upon arrival the trains to Germany 
 were gone : nothing left but a slow afternoon crawler, which did not 
 get to Hamburg till the next morning, but in time for the confirma- 
 tion. The Vice-Consul here, who knows Heligoland well, told me 
 that when the island was ceded to Germany the small possessors 
 of land, who had held these plots from father to son for genera- 
 tions, sent copies of their title-deeds to the Enghsh Foreign Office, 
 begging the Government to see that their property was secured to 
 them. These title-deeds are in the same language and correspond 
 exactly with the titles to land in England about the time of the 
 Norman Conquest. The Foreign Office officials could not decipher 
 them: an expert from the British Museum was employed for the 
 purpose. This proves that our Anglo ancestors were Frisians, for 
 the language in either case is not modern, but old Frisian. 
 
 A boy whom I confirmed here told me of his hours in a German 
 school, which he evidently did not appreciate. Breakfast at 7 ; 
 7 to 8 private lessons; 8 to 2 school; 2 to 3 private lessons; 3 
 dinner ; immediately afterwards— for digestion, I presume— gymna- 
 sium till 4.30; 4.30 to 7 school; 7 to 8 private lessons. Supper and 
 bed. I wondered he was living to tell the tale ! 
 
 Thence to Hanover for confirmation, where the Kaiser had lately 
 made a surprise journey. He does this— as Frederick the Great 
 was in the habit of doing— to see how quickly his soldiers can get 
 into order and out upon the parade ground. Some of my Warsaw
 
 174 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1S91 
 
 friends were then at Hanover. They told me of an English officer 
 on the Indian staflf who was in Warsaw last winter to learn Russian. 
 The Russian authorities learning that he was an Indian staff officer 
 had all his movements watched. If he went to skate the police 
 were on the ice too ; if he got into a droschky they got into 
 another and followed him ; as he walked on one side of the street 
 they walked on the other. At last he was ordered to leave Warsaw 
 in three days, and he had to go. I was told that 40,000 to 45,000 
 troops were then quartered in Warsaw, and that the fortifications 
 were being much strengthened. I was to have confirmed an 
 English girl here travelling with a circus. She had, however, met 
 with a most serious accident. A train, not far from Hanover, 
 crossing the line upon which the special circus train was travelling, 
 literally cut it in two. Her legs were broken, her cheeks torn, her 
 jaw broken in two places, and her teeth driven in. For five hours 
 she was in the wreck, unable to be liberated. The accident occurred 
 at 2 p.m. and she did not reach Hanover till 2 a.m. 
 
 From Hanover I went to Dresden and Berlin for various work. 
 In course of conversation with Sir Edward Malet upon this occasion, 
 he told me of the German Emperor's visit to England. He accom- 
 panied the Emperor, who was delighted with his reception. Sir 
 Edward added that there was as good an Anglo-German feeling 
 then as there was likely to be, but he said, " We are not popular as 
 a nation. It seems strange, for it always seems to me that we are 
 the pleasantest people in Europe ! " There seems to be two sides 
 to this as to many other questions. 
 
 Returning to England via Holland, I confirmed at both the 
 Amsterdam churches, crossing from Rotterdam to Harwich, and 
 concluding my year's work on 26 November.
 
 CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 Lourdes and its legend — Argcles — Sixth annual Conference at I'au — The Beer- 
 sheba of the North Europe chaplaincies — Hertford Hospital in I'aris — Mcran 
 and the Austrian Tyrol — Entry of Bourbaki's army into Switzerland — Conse- 
 cration of English church at Havre — The Zuyder Zee and its dead cities — 
 Radbolt refuses baptism, " If I am to be separated from them by becoming a 
 Christian, I will remain a heathen" — Island of Marken — Curious story of a 
 stork's matrimonial (lirficultics — Hunner-betten — The golden oriole — Visit 
 to Sir Horace Rumbokl at the Hague Embassy. 
 
 THE year's work of 1892 opened with a journey to the Pyrenees; 
 leaving England on February 19, and travclHng direct to 
 Arcachon by the Paris-Madrid express. I left London in l)itler 
 frost and snow ; in twenty-four hours I was at Arcachon amongst 
 the pine forests of the Landes, the bullocks drawing the wood carts 
 covered with white canvas to keep the sun from them, and we our- 
 selves having to walk on the shady side of the street. Below our 
 pretty little church here is the Promenade des Anglais, where the band 
 plays and the invalids and visitors sit basking in the soft winter sun. 
 One of the Landais stilt-walkers had recently for a wager walked from 
 Arcachon to Moscow. He was to have done it in thirty-five days, 
 but it took him forty-six. 
 
 From Arcachon I went to Argeles in the valley running off from 
 Lourdes into the Pyrenees. Lourdes is beautifully situated under 
 the mountains— now, of course, deep in snow— at the opening of the 
 charming valley running up to Argeles, Cauterets, Pierrefitte, and 
 Gavarne. The view from the station is perhaps the best to be ob- 
 tained in the environs. The large new church— a tawdry thmg, 
 both outside and in, as everything else at Lourdes— stands coni- 
 mandingly upon an eminence : the large plaster figure of the Virgin 
 —also tawdry— at the entrance to the grotto, where the apparition 
 is alleged to have been seen, is very much en Evidence. 
 
 Mr. Webster, our former chaplain at St. Jean de Luz, a learned 
 man and student, told me the Lourdes story. A little girl of eleven, 
 
 175
 
 176 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1892 
 
 named Bernadotte, was gathering sticks in the dry bed of a stream 
 when rain came on. She took shelter in the grotto. Whilst there 
 she saw, as she expressed it, a beautiful lady in white, with a blue 
 sash, standing in the upper part of the grotto. She herself was a 
 good little girl, but was with others of very questionable character. 
 These did not shelter in the grotto, and therefore were not with her 
 when she saw the apparition. The lady told her to scoop with her 
 hand in the soil of the grotto and drink, and water came. This any 
 one can do in these caves. The apparition then said, "Je suis 
 rimmaculee conception." Bernadotte told the story, and it grew, 
 particularly through a foolish English lady, a Roman Catholic, who 
 perhaps did more than any one else to set the ball of this silly story 
 rolHng. The true story seems to be that a soldier from Tarbes was 
 that day, with his girl, walking about in that neighbourhood, and 
 sheltering in the grotto from the rain played this prank upon the 
 ignorant superstitious child. Such a story was wanted just then by 
 the Roman Church, and the priests of the neighbourhood fanned it 
 into a blaze. There are several points in the girl's story which will 
 not bear scrutiny. One is the statement that the lady spoke in 
 French, whereas this girl, being a poor Bearnais, could only speak or 
 understand that language. However, the legend has run, and 
 Lourdes has grown from a small, insignificant place to a considerable 
 town of hotels, villas, etc., the result of pilgrimages from all parts of 
 Europe. The traffic in Uttle images and figures of the lady and the 
 grotto is enormous, as great as that in the images of Diana, and the 
 image of Jupiter which fell down from heaven, in St. Paul's time, at 
 Ephesus. It is all most pitiable and miserably sad. Some of the 
 first doctors in France have investigated the alleged cures, and have 
 arrived at the conclusion that 3^ per cent of those who visit Lourdes 
 are cured ; but they assert that, given its fine climate, combined with 
 change of air and scene, together with the effect produced upon the 
 imagination in hysterical and such-like cases, about 5 per cent would 
 probably be cured by those causes alone. Lourdes therefore falls 
 short of what ordinary change of air and climate would produce 
 by 1 1 per cent ! A miracle in the wrong direction ! These statistics 
 were arrived at by the joint consultation of a body of medical men, 
 half of them believers in the miraculous and half non-believers. A 
 fair test. 
 
 From Lourdes to Argeles is a beautiful three-quarters of an hour. 
 Here I stayed with friends who live at Argeles the year round.
 
 1892] ANNUAL CONFERENCE AT VAV ,77 
 
 They have it all to themselves except during the three summer 
 months, when a few English and more Spaniards visit the valley if 
 the weather is hot, for Argeles is high and cool. The walks in the 
 neighbourhood are pretty and interesting. St. Savin Church, a 
 little up the valley, built by Charlemagne, is Romanesque ; there is 
 a chamber between the roofs, loopholed, and used as a fortified 
 building — in this narrow, rocky passage of the valley — against the 
 Saracens. A little further stands alone upon a rocky knoll the 
 church of La Pieta, no houses near, from which the view up and 
 down the valley is charming. The snowy peaks up the valley and 
 around stand stacked and piled about, forming a grand background 
 to the picture. The most prominent snow peak in this valley is the 
 Viscos, which serves as its barometer. Down the valley the walks 
 are also beautiful. Below the chateau stands a curiously jjlaced 
 stone of enormous size, poised over the valley, and kept from falling 
 by another huge stone which just grips it at one end. These two great 
 rocks must have been falling together, when one caught the other 
 by the tail, so to speak, and pinned it against the j)recipice on 
 which it is now held — so far as one can judge — in safety. There 
 are houses in the valley beneath which would be crushed by their 
 fall if ever Uberated. 
 
 From Argeles I went to Pau for our annual Conference, being 
 the guest of Bishop and Mrs. Hellmuth at the Grand Hotel. On 
 24 February our sixth Conference opened, which was only fairly 
 attended, the remoteness of Pau from Central and Northern Europe 
 being considerable. 
 
 After confirmation work and sermons, I left Pau for Biarritz. 
 The route lies past Orthez, a picturesque as well as an historic little 
 town, situated upon the Gave, which flows through Pau, and is reached 
 by a gracefully quaint bridge thrown in a single span from one side 
 to the other of the deep narrow rocky gorge down which the river 
 dashes blue and clear. It is corbelled at the top, as are all the 
 Bearnais buildings, and is adorned in the centre by a lofty, slender, 
 stone-towered gateway. Here, at Orthez, was fought the penultimate 
 battle of the Peninsular campaign, the last being Toulouse. Peace 
 had been signed before this last battle was fought, but there was no 
 telegraphic communication in those days. For some miles before 
 reaching Bayonne the railway runs along the banks of the noble 
 Adour. From Bayonne I drove to Biarritz, a distance of two or 
 three miles lined with villas and gardens of almost tropical growth, 
 
 N
 
 178 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1892 
 
 palms, aloes, magnolias, camelias in full bloom, for in February it is 
 getting warm here down South ; the sea intensely blue, the air soft, 
 the sun bright, and there is no damp. 
 
 At Biarritz I stayed with an old Suffolk friend, Archdeacon 
 Chapman, of Ely, preaching on the Sunday, and doing other work. 
 From the tower on the top of the Archdeacon's villa the view was fine 
 in every direction. To the west stretched the intensely blue Bay of 
 Biscay, to the north lay Bayonne ; and beyond, the pine forests of the 
 Landes; to the east the Pyrenees falling down towards the sea, to let 
 the traffic of Europe pass to and fro from France to Spain. South- 
 ward lay the Spanish mountains — across the Bidassoa — a deep sierra 
 of indigo, stretching along the shores of Spain till lost in the 
 distance. The most prominent are those under which St. Sebastian 
 lies. The "Trois Couronnes," with its three summits, appears to be 
 in France, but is in Spain, as are all the finer peaks of the Pyrenees. 
 The large plain building in which the Emperor and Empress of the 
 French used to stay, turned now into an hotel, stands isolated towards 
 the lighthouse at the north end of the Bay of Biarritz. The streets 
 of Biarritz are very irregular, as if each builder had bought his plot 
 of ground and built his house facing whichever way his fancy led 
 him. Such French higgledy-piggledy would drive German municipal 
 authorities out of their minds. The shore is studded with rather 
 picturesque rocks ; the best view of them and of the coast-line is 
 gained from a small esplanade, set with seats and trees, at the south 
 end of the town. From this point the mountains of Spain, the 
 Spanish coast-line, and the entire sweep of the Bay of Biarritz are 
 seen. 
 
 From Biarritz it is but a short journey of about an hour to St. Jean 
 de Luz, my " Beersheba," our most southernly chaplaincy, the route 
 lying along the shores of the broken bay. Here I consecrated the 
 new Church of the Nativity, leaving afterwards for Bordeaux, where 
 I was the guest of Mr. Johnson, the well-known vineyard owner. His 
 house " Lescure " — outside Bordeaux — is a charming place in large 
 and pretty grounds. Magnolias are the botanical feature of 
 Bordeaux. Here, at " Lescure," they are magnificent, growing to 
 a height of sixty feet, and perfect in shape. This is the only district 
 in France where the Carnival extends into Ash-Wednesday. It is 
 said that this is by dispensation, in consequence of the French 
 having on a certain Ash-Wednesday won a battle against the 
 English! If so, it must be a legend as far-fetched as that of Lourdes.
 
 '^92] THE AUSTRIAN TYROL jyc) 
 
 On Shrove-Tuesday all Bordeaux goes out in its thousands to rat 
 snails at Cauderan ! How could such people possibly have won a 
 battle against the English? I took part in the Ash-Wcdncsday 
 service and confirmed. There is a story current here that when our 
 Queen went to Biarritz the royal train sloi)ped in the morning at 
 Libourne, near Bordeaux, for an early cup of coffee. The charge 
 made, or rather attempted, for thirty-five persons was 950 francs— 
 ;^i a head ! 
 
 Through a bitterly cold, snowy night, with carriage windows 
 frozen as in Russia, I travelled to Paris ; the coldest day of the 
 winter, as they told me when I arrived. Lord Lytton was dead, and 
 Lord Uufferin had not yet taken office. Mr. Egerton, the First 
 Secretary, with whom I had much conversation about Greece, was 
 to go to Athens. Mr. Stephen (now Sir Condie) I met upon this 
 occasion for the first time. He told me that he was upon the 
 Afghan Frontier Delimitation Commission at Penjdeh. I confirmed 
 in the Embassy Church for all the Paris candidates, jockey and 
 stable boys coming over from Chantilly, and lycce boys from 
 Versailles. The next day I dedicated the chapel in the Hertford 
 Hospital for English patients, built by Sir Richard Wallace, where 
 every appointment that money can provide has perfected the arrange- 
 ments. Upon leaving Paris I went to Brussels, confirming in the 
 two churches. On my way to England I confirmed at Ostend, cross- 
 ing afterwards to Dover, and so back to London. 
 
 On 6 May I left for Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, for con- 
 firmation and other work at Diisseldorf, Cassel, Frankfurt, Heidel- 
 berg, and Stuttgart. Here I was the guest of Count Carl Linden. 
 The Countess is a Dane, a member of our Church, and naturally 
 we had much in common to say about Denmark. He is an 
 antiquarian, and has filled his home with much that is interesting, 
 old armour and such-like covering the walls and staircase. 
 
 From Stuttgart I went to the Austrian Tyrol via Ulm, which is 
 finely situated on the Danube. The cathedral is the centre of 
 interest. Both tower and spire are very fine— the loftiest in 
 Europe, much carved and open ; a coronette sits gracefully about 
 thirty feet from the summit. At the east end are two elaborate 
 spirelettes. Staying at Munich for a confirmation, I passed into 
 Austria. The view of the Bavarian highlands after leaving Munich, 
 covered at this season with snow, is ver>' grand ; they stand up 
 across the great peat bog like the mighty coast-line of some great
 
 i8o CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1892 
 
 ocean. It is difficult to see where the railway can find an entrance 
 till Kufstein — the frontier — is reached, when it becomes plain that 
 it gets in where the Inn gets out. Innsbruck is situated at four 
 cross valleys, one leading down to Kufstein and Bavaria, up which 
 we had come, the second to the Vor Arlberg route into Switzerland, 
 the third to Salzburg and Vienna, and the fourth over the Brenner 
 into Italy, whither I was bound. Look up or down any street of 
 Innsbruck at this season and you see snow mountains peering down 
 upon you. It is very beautifully situated. The torrent coming 
 down from the Brenner, up which the train passes, rushes vehemently 
 along its rocky bed, dashing and foaming its way to its brother 
 Danube. It takes the Dresden-Verona-Milan-Ventimiglia-Rom- 
 ISIeran Express just two hours to climb to the snowy summits of the 
 Brenner. From here the run down the rocky torrent of the Adige 
 is rapid. At Franzensfeste, the fortress at the junction of two 
 valleys, one carrying the line to Vienna and the Dolomite country, 
 the other to Botzen and Italy, Professor Hechler, of Vienna, joined 
 me, and reported that the Buda-Pesth boys for confirmation had 
 gone on to Meran, whither I was bound. 
 
 Botzen is picturesquely situated amongst the mountains. Here 
 the main line to Italy branches to Meran. At Meran w^e have a 
 pretty little church, where I confirmed. From Schloss Tyrol, above 
 Meran, a fine view down the valley towards Botzen, and upwards 
 towards the Engadine is obtained. On the way are quaint earth 
 pyramids, with large stones poised upon their summits, which pro- 
 tect them as by a roof from being washed away by the rain. The 
 little old town of Meran, with its narrow streets and picturesque 
 gateways, is charming, a portfolio of pictures at every turn, the snow- 
 capped mountains looking down upon all at the end of each little 
 tortuous lane and alley. The Ifinger Spitz forms one of the moun- 
 tain features of Meran. A young Austrian had fallen from it not 
 long before my visit, and was killed; his body was discovered 
 by the vultures circUng over it. I returned from Meran back over 
 the Brenner again to Innsbruck, and thence by the Vor-Arlberg 
 route into Switzerland. The Austrians are proud of this route, and 
 their six-and-a-half-mile Vor-Arlberg tunnel, as well they may be ; it 
 is a remarkable piece of engineering. 
 
 At Zurich I confirmed and looked at a disused Roman church, 
 which we were thinking of buying and adapting to our services. I 
 then went on to Berne and Lausanne for confirmation and other
 
 i892] CONSECRATION OF HAVRE CHURCH i8i 
 
 work. At Lausanne a Swiss gentleman gave nie a very inlcrchling 
 account of the entrance of Bourbaki's army into Switzerland, driven 
 by the Germans over the Swiss frontier at Verrieres. The cold of 
 that winter, 1870-1, was intense. As the French came over the 
 frontier they had, of course, to lay down their arms. Thirly-five to 
 forty thousand did so. pointing to their rags and saying, " We come 
 to you naked." Disease and death followed. The Swiss were very 
 good to them. The churches were filled with the poor wretches. 
 Soup kitchens were always at work, and the railway stations were 
 turned into hospitals. The Swiss gentleman who told me these 
 details said that a lad, whom he did not recognize in his terrible 
 plight, came up to him from the mass of miserable fugitives and 
 said, " Sir, take compassion on me ; I am the son of your old 
 gardener." About five thousand of the soldiers made a loop 
 through Switzerland and went out again back into France. When 
 at an hotel at Lausanne the servant told me that the number of my 
 room was " nonante-et-cinq," instead of " quatre-vingt-quinze," 
 which I had never heard before. A Swiss gentleman informed me 
 it was old French, and that bankers and commercial men want to 
 introduce such enumeration — soisante, septante, huitante — as less 
 cumbersome. 
 
 Upon leaving Lausanne I went again to my friends at Uurrier, 
 and stayed in their pretty old Swiss house, " Sully." From there I 
 took my confirmation work at Montreux, and then returned by Paris 
 to Havre for the consecration of our church there, the chaplains of 
 Havre, Croix, Dieppe, Paris, and Rouen being present. After 
 confirming in the newly-consecrated church, I returned to England 
 via Southampton. 
 
 On 2 August I crossed to Rotterdam for Holland, staying at 
 Amsterdam for various work. My friend Mr. lioissevain, whose 
 guest 1 was at Baarn, and who knows everybody, got me the entree 
 to some private collections of valuable Dutch pictures— Rembrandts, 
 Hobbemas, Gerard Dows, etc., etc. What treasures unknown and 
 unseen by the ordinary traveller and sightseer live in these good old 
 Dutch houses. The Amsterdam galleries never weary ; the wealth 
 of pictures, old and new masters, is enormous. 1 think it the tincst 
 collection in Europe. Baarn is a country place, where many 1 )utch 
 families, merchants, and business men live. The Dutch make a 
 wood and then build in it. This for protection. The country is so 
 flat and wind-swept that it would be impossible to live in an ibolalcd
 
 i82 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1892 
 
 house, unsheltered by trees. Thus they Uve together out in the 
 country, in these protected coverts, all outside being flat, exposed, 
 wind-ridden marsh land. During my visit to Baarn Mr. Boissevain 
 went with me upon a delightful trip to the Zuyder Zee. Taking the 
 train, we passed through the noted village of Broek, said to be the 
 cleanest village in Holland, and perhaps in the world. Here, as 
 everybody knows — though not only here — the cows' tails are tied 
 up in winter to the roof of the sheds lest they should lash and foul 
 their sides. On through dyke lands, full of curlews, red shanks, 
 green shanks, ruffs, reeves, herons, bitterns, and endless littoral 
 birds, to Monikendam — the dam of the monks — one of the dead 
 cities of the Zuyder Zee. A long, clean, not only dead but buried 
 little town, with its silent street of picturesque houses and quaintly 
 carved mottoes upon them. Here is a large Protestant church, the 
 old cathedral of the twelfth century, much rebuilt and spoilt. In 
 this church stands the historic font in which, according to well- 
 known tradition, the heathen King Radbolt had placed one foot 
 towards his baptism, and then hesitated, asking if he should see his 
 heathen ancestors again in heaven. When told he would not, he 
 withdrew his foot, saying, " If I am to be separated from them by 
 becoming a Christian, I will remain a heathen." And such he died. 
 Here is also a Roman church with a quaint, old, galleried, turreted 
 spire, the bells hanging outside. At the hours very elaborate 
 chimes play, and a procession of horses passes round one of the 
 galleries of the tower. I know nothing at all like these dead cities 
 of the Zuyder Zee. They are so silent, so very dead, scarcely a wheel 
 ever passing along the neat, brick-paved streets, so old-world, so 
 eloquent of a prosperous and busy past, which now seems gone for 
 ever. If the Zuyder Zee is drained, as lately proposed, and the 
 water-way — shallow and such as it is — taken away, they will sink 
 further down into silence and decay. 
 
 From Monikendam we went to Edam, another defunct city, 
 where is another church tower of exactly the same architecture as 
 that at Monikendam. A picturesque and very clean town this, 
 with a pretty canal — and canals can be pretty in Holland — running 
 through it, a town hall into which we went, and looked at portraits 
 of mayors, ancient and modern, and other uninteresting local 
 worthies, buried long ago, as their city. One the portrait of a giant 
 lady, whose shoes were shown to us. Verily, if these portraits be 
 correct, there must have been giants and giantesses too in Holland
 
 1S92J THE ISLAND OF MARKKN ,83 
 
 in those days. Here in a small, exquisitely clean little inn garden, 
 in a shady arbour beside an ideal canal, we ate bread and Edam 
 cheese, celebrated throughout Europe for its excellence, and then 
 launched down the canal to VoUendam in a trek-boat. A Holland 
 trek-boat is a clumsy breed of house-boat, a sort of ark drawn by a 
 horse when no wind is available, and propelled by a sail when there 
 is sufficient wind, as there was this day. VoUendam is also " gone 
 dead." It is situated upon the shore of the Zuyder Zee, which the 
 other towns are not, and said to be the most picturesque and ([uaint 
 place in all ancient Holland. We went into several houses, the 
 furniture and fittings of which are to be seen nowhere else. The 
 beds are cupboards, enclosed by panels, the pillows worked most 
 beautifully. The little stoves used in summer might easily be 
 brought to England, and would be much admired. They are port- 
 able, easily carried about, standing on four legs, of metal, and kept 
 brilliantly bright. A brazier is burnt in them, all fuel in Holland 
 being, of course, peat. The dress of the men is very Greek ; they 
 must, I think, have taken their dress from Greek sailors, and 
 exaggerated it. The trousers are enormously wide, like split petti- 
 coats, with a top, or tight jacket, tucked into them of pink material, 
 surmounted by fur caps even in hot summer weather. We found 
 some American artists here painting the quaint houses and people. 
 At VoUendam we chartered a large, heavy, and not particularly 
 savoury fish-boat, and sailed about an hour's passage across to the 
 island of Marken. This too is a noteworthy place, though I fancy 
 that it is little visited, being much out of the way, and difficult of 
 access. All is most curious ; the island is about a mile long, with 
 hamlets scattered over it. We went into some of the most 
 picturesque of the houses, suggestive of Rider Haggard's Lisbeth; 
 Delft china upon shelves, racks all round, and brazen and other 
 vessels about the rooms ; several fine old carved armoires stood 
 against the walls. The Friesland clocks took my fancy immensely. 
 They are of ancient manufacture, the brass fittings and ornamenta- 
 tion round the painted faces most curious. Mr. IJoissevain, my host 
 and guide, has one, and he says it is almost impossible to put them 
 out of order. The women's dress is almost as bizarre as the men's, 
 red, yellow, blue, every colour almost. Many of these people are 
 born, live, and die in Marken, and never cross the narrow, shallow- 
 channel to the mainland. 
 
 Mr. Boissevain, who is a great ornithologist and keen sportsman,
 
 i84 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1892 
 
 told me a very interesting story of a stork. A male bird, which was 
 injured and could not fly, was left behind in Holland one winter. 
 It became tame, and was kept by the people of the premises upon 
 which it was hatched. The following spring a female bird came 
 over from Africa, and paired with it. They built their nest upon a 
 manure heap, probably because the wounded bird could get no 
 higher for the purpose. There they hatched their eggs, and at the 
 flighting season the wounded stork's wife departed to Africa. 
 Whether he had not made her comfortable upon the manure heap, 
 or she was faithless to her poor injured mate, history does not 
 record, but the next year she did not come, and he spent his 
 summer in neglected sohtude. But that year she had returned 
 again ; the manure heap had been taken away, but a nest had been 
 made upon a little outhouse, up which their human protectors 
 helped the injured exile by a plank. The possessors of the house 
 were looking with interest to see how things would go with them at 
 the end of the season. Before the storks leave for Africa they 
 stand round in a circle and hold a conclave. Those unable to leave 
 with them are then destroyed. Why the hero of this story was not 
 so destroyed my bird-learned friend could not explain. 
 
 Another day my host took me to the palace, a pretty white building 
 with curved colonnade on either flank. It is surrounded by beauti- 
 fully laid out gardens and grounds. Here the little Queen— whom we 
 saw in a boat with the royal flag at the stern— and the Queen 
 Regent were spending the summer. The woods around Baarn are 
 everywhere carefully trimmed and the walks kept in perfect neat- 
 ness. We drove through them to a small ruin, near which is a large 
 granite stone, what we should call a cromlech. It stands upon four 
 small stones. These cromlechs are called in Holland Hunner- 
 betten— the beds of the Huns. Where such granite came from, 
 unless glacier- borne, who knows? The nearest granite northward 
 — for it certainly did not come from the south, unless brought by 
 man— is in Scandinavia. How much the Glacial Period has to 
 account for all over Europe ! The golden oriole builds in gardens 
 at Amsterdam. The nest is pendant, hanging upon three strings, 
 and is like a wasps' nest. It — the bird, not the nest — cries before 
 rain. My son, who accompanied me on this journey, had a day's 
 shooting with Mr. Boissevain on the shores of the Zuyder Zee. I 
 joined them, with the ladies of the family, later in the day. On 
 these marshes are pools, upon which are placed baskets, like lobster
 
 i892] VISIT TO SIR HORACE RUMBOLD 185 
 
 pots stuck sideways on stakes, for ducks to build and live in, doubt- 
 less to protect them from rats and like vermin. Joining the shooters 
 v^^e went to a very primitive little village on the Zee, where we had 
 lunch in the cleanest and quaintest of world-end cottages. In this 
 region the girls wear a peculiar cap ; it is black, fitting closely to 
 the head, with a band of thick fur, which to the round 1 )utch face 
 is very becoming. 
 
 Upon leaving my kind and pleasant friends, I went to stay with 
 Sir Horace and Lady Rumbold at the Hague Embassy for confirma- 
 tion and other work in that city. Sir Horace has been attached — 
 as those who have read his interesting reminiscences know — to 
 many Legations, and has represented us at many Courts. We 
 had much conversation in consequence about my diplomatic parts 
 of Europe. To this confirmation three boys were brought by their 
 parents from Copenhagen. This is a very long journey, and repre- 
 sents much earnestness and appreciation of Church ordinances. 
 They came into the vestry afterwards at my request, and I spoke 
 to them, commending their good parents for their care and self- 
 denial. Not long since — ten years later — I met the mother at 
 Copenhagen, and was glad to hear that the boys, no longer such, 
 were very satisfactory ; one in the colonies, to whom she asked me 
 to write a few words of advice and encouragement. After the con- 
 firmation I spent the afternoon with Lady Bonham, and then left 
 for Rotterdam, where I preached for the Continental Bishopric. 
 
 From Holland I went to Ems, for a meeting on behalf of the 
 bishopric. Here, for the first time in my life, I felt the shock of 
 an earthquake. It occurred on the morning of a very sultry day. 
 The sensation was as though a giant had taken hold of the house 
 below and shaken it to and fro. The school-house was cracked 
 and the children had to be dismissed. It also displaced the 
 panelling on the roof of our Schwalbach church. At Schwalbach 
 I dedicated a window in our pretty little English church to the 
 memory of Mr. Christopher Benson. In passing through Wies- 
 baden I visited his grave. It is covered by a well-kept flower- 
 bed, and at its head stands a granite cross. The wooded hills 
 around make it a beautiful and (luiet resting-place. His brother, 
 the Archbishop, came over for the funeral. The graves in this 
 cemetery are all well kept ; I have seldom seen a cemetery, even 
 in England, kept better. On the wall of my bedroom at Wies- 
 baden hung a small china plate, representing three hares, their
 
 i86 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1892 
 
 heads in such positions that though there are but three ears 
 amongst them each has a pair. Around the plate run these words: — 
 
 Drei Hasen, und der Loffel drei, 
 Und doch hat jeder Seine zwei. 
 
 When preaching in Long Melford Church, Suffolk, not long after, 
 I saw exactly the same represented in old stained glass. No doubt 
 a monkish mode of symbolizing the Holy Trinity. 
 
 From Wiesbaden I went to Homburg, staying en route at Frank- 
 fiirt. I am never weary of admiring this grand station. It is a 
 study and a marvel of German skill, order, comfort, and perfection 
 of arrangement. It leaves nothing to be desired but three large 
 fountains along the main internal artery, from which the platforms 
 run at right angles. These fountains to correspond with the three 
 mighty glass roofs, and set round with evergreens in the winter and 
 flowers in the summer, would not only add much to the beauty of 
 the building, but would refresh and cool the atmosphere, which, under 
 such an immense vaulting of glass, is very close and airless. At 
 Homburg I preached for the Continental Bishopric. The season 
 was in full tide, and the place was very full of English. I went to 
 the castle and left cards for the Empress Frederick, an invitation 
 following immediately from her inviting me to dinner. But I 
 regretted being obliged to leave at once for work at Bonn. 
 
 The heat on the Continent this August was unprecedented, the 
 trees and shrubs being burnt as by fire ; horses dropped dead in the 
 streets, and people were killed by sunstroke. I breakfasted one 
 morning at 5 a.m. out on a balcony, and the heat, even at that hour, 
 was terrific. Out of this burning, fiery furnace I was nof sorry to 
 make my way to Rotterdam, and so back to England.
 
 CHAPTER XIX 
 
 The unbeliever's grave at Hanover — The Czar at Fredenshorg — The organ- 
 blower taken for a nihilist — The Moreau monument— Patience of a Russian 
 railway official — "I have sle])t in this carriage for a month" — Unusual 
 winter and snowfall in Petcrsl)urg — The last of the EmjKiror Nicholas's 
 sons — Reindeer antl camp upon the Neva — A two clays' review by the Czar 
 Alexander III — The frozen fish-market at Peterslnirg — The frozen mammoth 
 from Siberia — State service at the Isaac Cathedral — Kiga — Ice eleven and a 
 half feet thick at Libau — A bit of the Arctic regions — Hummocks of ice 
 twenty feet high — Twenty-five steamers frozen in. 
 
 THE year 1893 was one of long and almost incessant work and 
 travel. On 20 February I went by Ostend to Brussels, where 
 I was the guest of Lord and Lady Elibank, for confirmation and 
 other work ; after which a large reception at the Legation by Sir 
 Edmund and Lady Monson. Their hearts were evidently more in 
 Denmark than in Belgium. All diplomats like dear old Denmark, 
 and all its homely kindliness and people. It is always with a heavy 
 heart that I turn my back upon it, and plunge again into bustling, 
 noisy, self-asserting mid-Europe. Then to Hanover, where I did 
 my usual church work on my way to Dresden. At Hanover there 
 is a grave covered, by order of the man who lies in it, with gigantic 
 stones. He was an unbeliever in the Resurrection. In life he 
 laughed at the idea, and said, "If any living thing should be 
 able to move the stones over my grave, then you may believe in the 
 Resurrection." The seed of a birch tree, dropped by a bird or 
 otherwise, germinated between two of the great stones, and growing 
 into a tree has literally rent them asunder, exposing the vault 
 beneath. As I looked at it I said to myself, " What small instru- 
 ments the Almighty One uses to confute the fool who says m his 
 heart, 'There is no God.'" 
 
 In Dresden I found Mr. Moore, of Copenhagen, installed as 
 chaplain, in place of the excellent and much-beloved Mr. Gilder- 
 dale, who had passed away. He had many interesting stories and 
 
 187
 
 i88 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1893 
 
 incidents to relate of liis life and work in the Danish capital. He 
 represented the Czar as being like a boy when at Fredensborg, 
 where he always felt safe and free. He would sometimes He at the 
 nursery door waiting for his children to come out. They would 
 tumble over and swarm upon him, when he would get up and run 
 the length of the great corridor with them hanging about him, and 
 making no more of their weight— for he was one of the strongest 
 men in Europe — than if they were so many kittens. He had a 
 little tent in the park to which he would invite the guests at 
 Fredensborg to come and have tea with him, waiting upon them, 
 and washing up the cups and saucers afterwards ! Fredensborg palace 
 and grounds were always full of detectives, day and night, when he 
 was there. Upon the occasion of the stone-laying of our church, at 
 which he was present with the King and Queen of Denmark, the 
 Prince and Princess of Wales, and other royalties, every precaution 
 was taken to prevent the concealment of any explosive beneath the 
 dais which covered the vaults and excavations. These were dark at 
 the time, and full of heavy timbers. Search was made most care- 
 fully all round lest any person or explosive material should be con- 
 cealed there. 
 
 After the church was built, the Czar and Czarina upon one 
 occasion attended our service with the Prince and Princess of 
 Wales. During the singing of the Te Deum an equerry, in attend- 
 ance upon the Russian Royal Family, came across to Mr. Moore 
 and reported to him, in some agitation, that a man was concealed 
 behind the organ. Mr. Moore, of course, was terrified, and going 
 round at the back the equerry pointed out the organ-blower ! The 
 Russians having no organs in their churches, he had taken the 
 blower for a nihilist working his infernal machine into operation ! 
 
 At one of the large receptions which always mark my visits to 
 Dresden I met Sir Donald Stewart, to whom I was introduced as 
 a direct descendant of Mary Queen of Scots. Professor Hechler 
 came from Vienna to report upon the newly-discovered copy of the 
 Septuagint upon papyrus, some pages of which he exhibited to the 
 Oriental Congress in London last autumn. It was found by a 
 young German trader when travelling in Egypt. It had been buried 
 with the dead, together with a copy of Homer, and discovered 
 amongst the mummies. Parts of Zechariah and Malachi are the most 
 perfect. Professor Hechler wanted the British Museum to buy it for 
 ^1000. The Archbishop of Canterbury and Lord Rosebery, two
 
 i893] WARSAW ,8g 
 
 of the trustees, hesitated to do so. Caution is, of course, necessary 
 in view of such scamps as Shapiro and Simonides. who have, in 
 Hke cases, deceived even experts. 
 
 I walked one day up to the monument which marks the s\mi 
 where General Moreau fell in the siege of Dresden. It is on an 
 elevated ridge, constructed of stone and very simple ; surrounded by 
 trees evidently planted when the monument was erected. It will be 
 remembered that, though a French general, Moreau had turned 
 against Napoleon, and was fighting at that time with Alexander I of 
 Russia. It bears this inscription : " Hier fiel Moreau au seit 
 Alexanders 1813." 
 
 From Dresden I went to Berlin, and took the night-express to 
 Warsaw. In Warsaw we have to be on our best ecclesiastical and 
 civil behaviour, or we get into trouble. Leave has always to be 
 obtained from the authorities by Dr. EUis, our chaplain, for me, as 
 bishop, to hold any service in the city. It seems vexatious, but so it 
 is. Mrs. Fanshawe, an old Anglo-Russian resident here, whom I have 
 mentioned before, told me that her gardener, a member of the Greek 
 Church and a Uniat — that is, one who in days gone Ijy was allowed 
 to become a Roman — married a Roman, and their children were 
 baptized in the Roman Church. Things went on for a while, but at 
 last it was discovered, and he was imprisoned. Another case she 
 told me was that of an English lady, whose daughter was bajitized 
 by a priest of the Orthodox Russian Church ; she entered her 
 name after the baptism as a Lutheran. She was anxious to have this 
 daughter confirmed in the English Church upon the occasion of my 
 visit, but all kinds of difficulties were thrown in her way. The 
 Archbishop of Warsaw said he would not object, but the Lutheran 
 consistory did. If Dr. Ellis had presented her, he would probably 
 have been sent out of Russia. The Russian priest who l)ai)tized the 
 girl was being inquired for, and it was not unlikely that he would be 
 sent to Siberia. The Archbishop advised her being taken over the 
 frontier and confirmed. All these religious difficulties have now 
 been removed by the Imperial Ukase of Easter, 1905. On the 
 Praga side of the Vistula, opposite Warsaw, is a large wood, which 
 being infested by hundreds of bad characters, is unsafe after night- 
 fall. They sleep amongst the trees all the year round, even in the 
 bitterest snow and frost. 
 
 There are four stations at Warsaw — the Petersburg, the Moscow, 
 the Alexandrowo, and the fourth for Krakow, South Russia, and tlie
 
 igo CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1893 
 
 Crimea. Upon leaving Warsaw for Petersburg I had a first-class 
 compartment to myself, like a little room, and was very comfortable. 
 It is a journey of 1045 versts. In the same train was a Warsaw 
 manufacturer, by name Rau, who told me a very characteristic story 
 illustrating Russian patience and discipline. When about to start 
 upon a journey to the Black Sea he telegraphed to the station-master 
 at a junction to have a special through-carriage waiting for him, 
 which was to be attached to his train. At the last moment he had 
 to delay his journey for a month, forgetting to acquaint the station- 
 master with the change of plan. At the month's end he set out 
 upon his journey, and arriving at the junction in question a man 
 rushed up to him, and said, " Oh, great heavens ! how glad I am to 
 see you, little father ! I have slept in this carriage for the last 
 month, and thought you were never coming." In intensely cold 
 weather the trains in Russia stop for an hour here and there to allow 
 the guards and others to thoroughly thaw, lest they should be frozen ; 
 the tyres of the wheels split, and travelling is rendered dangerous. 
 The brass handles, by which the passengers hold on in climbing in 
 and out of the trains, are bound with flannel. To touch metal at a 
 certain temperature would take the skin off your hands. A good 
 deal of vodka is got through by these officials during the night, 
 for on starting the guards whistle again and again without any 
 response whatever coming from the engine. At night the lights in 
 peasant-huts look like glow-worms lying in the snow. The weather 
 upon this journey was very severe, with continuous snowstorms, and 
 the train required two powerful engines to get it through. The hack- 
 ing of the frozen snow and ice from the wheels and axles which one 
 hears at intervals all night is a sure index of heavy snowstorms. 
 Getting in and out of the train in such weather is a difficulty and by 
 no means safe. The steps are coated with ice, and the platform 
 terribly slippery. The patterns made by the frost upon the windows 
 are exquisite, broad sprays of feathery ferns, palms, and ostrich 
 feathers, such as no sculptor could execute. 
 
 When we arrived at Gatchina the sun shone brilliantly, and the 
 enormous birch trees in the park glittered like silver fountains in 
 some fairyland. This was a winter of unusual snowfall, and 
 thousands of little Finns, with their sledges and small rough ponies, 
 were busy all over Petersburg carting it away. I was told that 
 outside the city the snow so carted lay in hills as high as the 
 Isaac Cathedral ! i'he ice surrounding frozen-in ships is cut with
 
 i893] ST. PETERSBURG uji 
 
 saws, or they would be crushed. Carriages in the summer and 
 sledges in the winter drive out to the Neva islands to sec the sun- 
 sets down the Gulf of Finland, which are most gorgeous. The 
 little Samoyeds encamped, as usual, with their reindeer upon the 
 Neva, add to the picturesqueness of the winterly scene. The Isaac 
 Cathedral I found free from scaffolding on its western side, but 
 hidden by enormous timbers on its eastern front. The building 
 needs constant repair and pointing by reason of the severe frosts 
 of winter. The equestrian statue of Peter the Great has been 
 entirely cleared of the small trees and bushes which surrounded it. 
 This was done in consequence of the German Emperor inquiring 
 when he was here where the statue was. The Czar ordered the 
 whole square to be cleared, and the statue, which was practically 
 hidden, to be exposed. It was also thought well to clear away this 
 bushy scrub, as a possible covert for nihilist attacks. 
 
 On Sunday, 5 March, I preached at the morning service. Princess 
 Melita, of Edinburgh, being present ; in the afternoon I confirmed 
 eighty-five candidates in a church packed to the doors. A boy 
 from Perm, in Siberia, was one of the candidates. As I drove past 
 the Grand Duke Michael's palace he was getting into his sledge. 
 He is the last of the Emperor Nicholas's sons. I stood near him 
 and his brother, the Grand Duke Constantine, at the Peterhof 
 Palace landing-place in 1859, when they received the late Emperor 
 upon landing from his yacht, who, with the late Empress, was lead- 
 ing the Duchess of Edinburgh, then a little girl. The Grand 
 Duke was a fine, tall, middle-aged man then, now an old man and 
 bent. The Emperor also drove by in a sledge to the Grand Duke 
 Paul's palace, which is close to the Russian Company's premises on 
 the Neva, where I was staying. In conversation with Mr. Heath, 
 whom I met at a reception, and who had been fifteen years tutor to 
 the Czar's sons, he spoke most highly and affectionately of the 
 Czarevitch — now Emperor— calling him " a dear boy " ; he was also 
 devoted to Michael, who was then fourteen. He told me that not 
 one of the three ever told him an untruth, or ever prevaricated in 
 the least matter. This, in view of their Russian surroundings and 
 influences, is most remarkable. When the Penjdeh alTair on the 
 Afghan frontier occurred. Sir Edward Thornton was our Ambassador 
 here. He was supposed to have managed matters so well that war 
 did not break out. He and M. Giers were determined that hostili- 
 ties should be averted; but the English in Petersburg were pre-
 
 192 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL ['893 
 
 paring to leave. The Russian Company had arranged to be taken 
 under the care of the German Embassy. There is no prettier sight 
 in a Petersburg winter than the cutting of the great yard-thick ice- 
 blocks from the Neva, from which they are carried away upon 
 sledges. The drivers in their sheepskins lean upon these blocks — 
 which glitter in the brilliant sun like great diamonds — and in spite 
 of the intense cold sometimes even fall asleep on them. 
 
 On 7 March, in 60° of frost, I went to see the Czar review a 
 large section of his troops. The march past, as he sat on horse- 
 back in front of the Winter Palace, surrounded by a brilliant staff 
 of all services, was magnificent. Infantry regiments of varied 
 uniforms ; cavalry, consisting of Guard Imperial, cuirassiers, lancers, 
 hussars, regiment after regiment galloping at Russian speed in the 
 dazzhng snow, which flew up literally like smoke around them as 
 they dashed past, shouting their wild greetings to the Emperor. 
 The sight was worth coming all the way to Petersburg to see. The 
 cuirassiers wore helmets surmounted by outspread eagles. These 
 flashed in the sunlight like streaming comets of fire. Each regiment 
 rode different-coloured horses, which added much to the uniform 
 effect — white, black, chestnut, brown, bay. Cossacks by thousands, 
 red and blue, on their little rough ponies, were everywhere, dashing 
 about with their lances and naghaikie, Uke demons let loose from 
 the inferno. The rush of the artillery as it rolled in clouds of snow, 
 muffling the sound of the wheels, but shaking the ground, was one 
 of the most effective parts of the pageant. We sat in our sledge 
 on the edge of the Alexandra Square — exactly where the slaughter 
 of "Red Sunday" took place twelve years later — and saw it all from 
 first to last admirably. The ice-hills were then in full swing. I 
 never go to Petersburg without paying them a visit. After watch- 
 ing the sport for a time, I wandered away into the woods to look at 
 the lovely rosy sunset over the ice-bound gulf. The silence was as 
 intense as the cold, broken only by the hoarse croak of the old grey 
 crows, which sit in such bitter weather quite still upon the trees, 
 hunched up as if they even, hardy as they are, protested against 
 60° of frost. As an index of the winter we were experiencing, 
 I was told that it took seven Finlanders with their sledges more 
 than four days to carry away the snowfall of a single flight from the 
 courtyard of the Company's premises, upon which my windows 
 looked, and cost the Company £1. It may be imagined what the 
 clearings of a winter cost ! Hay barges of enormous size and
 
 '8931 THE FROZEN MEAT MARKET ,93 
 
 thatched, such as are used on the rivers of India, lie embedded m 
 the ice; they stand fixed Hke gigantic haystacks, to be cut as 
 required. The frozen-up vessels and steamers are roofed over in 
 just the same way as ice-bound ships in the Arctic regions. One 
 of the Carr boys, whose exploits on the ice-hills I have elsewhere 
 described, had just returned from Archangel. He had been away 
 a week, and had slept every night in his sledge. His burnt and 
 scorched face showed how awful the cold must have been. 
 
 I lunched with Mr. Heath one day at the AnitchkofT Palace. 
 Here he lived when at Petersburg and taught the Czar's boys. 
 Amongst his many pictures were portraits of two of them, subscribed 
 "from George and Michael to old Mr. Heath"— "old" in the far 
 north being a title of respect and affection. 
 
 At the Gostinoi Dvor, or old bazaar, one may pick up all sorts of 
 curious old things— silver, china, pictures, books, ikons, odds and 
 ends from all parts of Russia and the East. Amongst the books I 
 found Canon Ashwell's Lectures 07t the Catholic Church and Miss 
 Yonge's Heartsease. 
 
 The frozen meat market is of another order of interest, even still 
 more remarkable. Thousands and hundreds of thousands of tons 
 of fish of all kinds, sizes, shapes, colours, from the enormous fish of 
 the Volga, sterlets some twelve feet long, which are sawn in half like 
 trees by cross-cut saws, to little things no bigger than whitebait. As 
 the larger ones are thrown down for sawing, they resound upon the 
 floor Hke great beams of wood, the medium-sized rattling like 
 captain biscuits. Oxen, sheep, goats, whole pigs frozen, some 
 standing up as if alive, roebuck, wild boar, Arctic grouse, ptarmigan, 
 pheasants, bustards, shore birds, capercailzies, birds large and small, 
 hundreds in kind and hundreds of thousands in number, of all 
 colours, defying the identification of any ordinary ornithologist. 
 Boxes, crates, bales, piles— I might say without exaggeration miUs 
 of this frozen food— fish, flesh, and fowl. The most interesting 
 sight of its kind, this frozen meat market, that is to be seen surely in 
 the world. 
 
 The mammoth in the museum is one of the sights of Petersburg. 
 It was so perfect when first dug out of the frozen ground in Siberia, 
 where it had lain for countless centuries— and the skin, with coat 
 upon it, so well preserved — that the dogs actually gnawed at the 
 carcass as it was being disinterred. 
 
 Another day we had a second grand march past of infn'rv 
 
 O
 
 194 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL ['893 
 
 cavalry, and artillery. Different regiments to those reviewed on 
 the former day, and therefore different uniforms. Russian uniforms 
 are the most brilliant and beautiful in Europe. One regiment wore 
 grey great-coats with the most perfect porcelain-blue strappings, and 
 helmets with a zone of red fur from ear to ear, spreading in the 
 centre. Others had the same in black, with red and yellow pendants 
 hanging over the back of the helmet, with fur falling down behind. 
 The cold at this review was again so severe that the soldiers wore 
 the bashlik or woollen cover over their heads, which is allowed 
 after the temperature falls to a certain point. At that time we were 
 having between sixty and seventy degrees of frost, and to under- 
 stand what that is it must be experienced. I was told that it 
 had been difficult to ascertain accurately the temperature of that 
 abnormally cold winter, inasmuch as quicksilver freezes at 40° 
 below zero, Reaumur, and it had frozen several times. When the 
 beaten-down hardened snow freezes very intensely driving in the 
 streets is dangerous, for the roadway being high in the centre and 
 falling away to the sides, causes the sledge to slip down towards 
 the gutter. Not only do they very easily upset when so slipping, 
 but an approaching sledge is apt to dash into another, the Russian 
 driving like the son of Nimshi, furiously. An English girl not long 
 since had her eye knocked in by the shaft of a sledge running 
 against her head. One finds oneself constantly protecting one's face 
 against approaching sledges, for a severe blow might, and probably 
 would, prove fatal. 
 
 I dined one day with General Pamitin, a Russian officer. Russian 
 servants seem to have a special faculty for keeping plate in good 
 order. No plate in Europe glitters so brilliantly as that in Russian 
 
 houses. 
 
 On 10 March, the Emperor's birthday, there was a grand service 
 in the Isaac Cathedral. The public were not admitted, but when 
 the Chief of the Police at the doors was told that an English 
 " Metropolite " wished to enter, he made room at once through the 
 crowd and handed us over to the ecclesiastical authorities of the 
 cathedral, who took us within the altar rails and furnished us with 
 chairs, a great concession, since neither the dignitaries of the 
 church nor any of the distinguished laity had any seats provided 
 for them. I was asked if I should like to be introduced to the 
 Archbishop of Petersburg, but not being in canonicals, I begged to 
 be excused. I was given to understand that the message came from
 
 i893] FROM PETERSBURG TO RKiA ,,,. 
 
 the Archbishop himself. The service— as that at which 1 was 
 present six years before, ajid which I have fully describc-d—was 
 exceedingly grand, and the congregation a Ijrilliant one. Orandccs 
 and officers, with magnificent uniforms and orders, filled the space 
 beneath the dome. No less than ten mitred bishops, with archi- 
 mandrites and other dignitaries, forming a double line between the 
 dome and the holy gates, took part in the service. 
 
 From Petersburg I travelled to Riga. A wild snowstorm, wliich 
 made us late, would have blocked the line had not an arn.y of men 
 been at work all night keeping it clear. In this country an engine- 
 driver requires skill in taking his engine through the drifts ; must 
 know when to charge a drift, and when to pull up and wait for it to 
 be cut through, for which purpose gangs of men and boys were 
 working by hundreds all along the line. One always knows when a 
 drift lies ahead, the engine uttering a dismal wail as it charges 
 the barrier ; at these points progress is very slow. Bird life ceases 
 up here in the winter; not the smallest runnel of water being open, 
 or any means surviving for their existence. 
 
 At Riga I preached and confirmed, and took the opportunity of 
 caUing upon the Russian Bishop of Courland. The chaplain invited 
 me to meet his choir, most of them speaking only Russian or 
 German. During the great cold of this dry, severe winter, the 
 thermometer reached 40° below zero, Reaumur, i.e. 72° of frost. 
 This can scarcely be beaten in the Arctic regions. Not long before 
 my visit two women were being driven from Courland into Riga ; on 
 arrival the driver of the sledge turned to take his fare, when both 
 were found frozen to death. Police guarding at night the great 
 bridge over the Dwina, which is high and exposed, are not un- 
 frequently found dead at their post in the morning. The Russian 
 Government sets apart 80,000,000 roubles (;^4,ooo,ooo) for the 
 construction of the Siberian railway to Vladivostock. The interest 
 was being spent annually upon the work at 5 per cent ; this would 
 be ;^20o,ooo. In company with the British Consul I visited the 
 English Club, established chiefly for the young men of the British 
 colony. Everything is admirably arranged. The club keeps them out 
 of mischief, for Riga is a very bad place. 
 
 Having done my work at Riga, I went on with Dr. Harris, our 
 chaplain, to Libau. The Dwina separates Lithuania from Courland. 
 The route lay through Mitau, its capital. An elderly lady got into 
 the train at Mitau, and after a short while came across the saloon
 
 196 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1893 
 
 carriage, and said, " It is strange to hear the Enghsh tongue in this 
 part of Russia," and entered into conversation. She told me that 
 her mother liked the English language, and used to speak it when- 
 ever she could. She talked of English books, Catharine a?id 
 Crawford laif, and asked about the Tait family. She was going to 
 her estate, a few miles beyond Mitau. She wrote her name in my 
 journal-book as " Baronne de Ragys, nee Comtesse Bose, Annen 
 Strasse, Mitau." She told me of two murders; one on her husband's 
 property, committed a short time before in Courland by peasants in 
 revenge for measures taken against their straying cattle. It seems 
 that much bad blood is caused by this straying of cattle into the 
 forests. As we approached Libau the snow became deeper. We 
 passed a peasant's cottage absolutely buried to the roof, and dug out. 
 At Libau I was the guest of Mr. Hill, the British Consul. No 
 less than twenty-three ships were waiting to get into Libau, unable 
 to do so in consequence of the port being frozen ; this was unusual, 
 Libau being Russia's one open port on the Baltic. The ice in the 
 Baltic that winter was eleven and a half feet thick. The Consul 
 drove me down in his sledge to the shore to see what he said might 
 not be seen so far down the gulf once in a hundred years. It 
 was a sight well worth seeing. To the horizon stretched one vast 
 expanse of rugged ice. Enormous hummocks, here and there piled 
 up to a height of twenty feet ; in fact, the appearance was that of a 
 heavy sea arrested suddenly in an ice-grip, and then left to be 
 covered by the winter snows. Five miles out lay twenty-five large 
 steamers frozen in. Some vessels had been frozen in the port of 
 Libau all the winter, an enormous loss to their owners. One, 
 attempting to get out with cargo for the Chicago Exhibition, had 
 her bows crushed, and was compelled to return ; she lay here, her 
 bows gaping open. The Consul told me that if the ice was to 
 suddenly break-up and a gale set in from the east the twenty-five 
 frozen -in vessels would be in great peril. They would be driven 
 over in the pack ice to the Swedish coast. Libau is the third port 
 in Russia — Odessa, Rostock, Libau — the main export being wheat. 
 The restricted sale of corn, consequent upon the famine, had greatly 
 injured this branch of trade in Russia. 
 
 From Libau to Memel in Germany is seven and a half hours' fast 
 sledging. On the frontier are military posts which supply soldiers 
 to patrol it; the patrols extend to the waves of the Baltic in 
 summer, and, in winter, are posted out upon the frozen sea, meeting
 
 i893] RUSSIAN DISINFIiCTANTS i.jy 
 
 as they pace to and fro with fixed bayonets and loaded carbines. 
 The heavy ice crushers, built on the Clyde, keep the harb(;ur 
 clear in the winter months. It is said that the Russian Govern- 
 ment intend making Libau take the place of Cronstadt as a naval 
 arsenal. Large cases of exhibits for Chicago were being shipped, 
 but no one knew when the ships would be able to get away. 
 Travelling from Libau the main line from Petersburg to the 
 frontier is regained at Koshedari, the train coming down from the 
 far north like a ship out of the sea, so flat are these endless steppes. 
 My fellow-travellers to the frontier were Baron Kleish-Keyserlingk 
 and his wife, to whom I was introduced at Libau. She spoke 
 English, he none. She spoke of Robertson's Sermons, and Kingsley's 
 works, which she had read. They were interested to see English 
 coins, sovereigns, half-crowns, shillings and sixpences, none of 
 which they had seen before. " Ah ! " exclaimed the Baronne, "and 
 that is the leetle sixpence, is it ? I have heard of it." 
 
 Wirballen, the frontier, is 840 versts from Petersburg, i.e. 560 
 miles, and it is 460 miles from the frontier to Berlin. When cholera, 
 plague, or such infectious diseases exist in or out of Russia, one's 
 clothes at the frontier are subjected to disinfectants, which ruin 
 them, and then to a baking process in ovens which ends their 
 existence altogether. Sir R. Morier, our Ambassador at Petersburg, 
 told me of an English officer whose uniform was entirely spoilt by 
 the process. My good friend Mr. Bornholdt, of Riga, had tele- 
 graphed to his agent at Wirballen who saw my things through to my 
 great relief without any trouble. An American and his wife at the 
 frontier were in difficulty, being unable to speak any language but 
 their own. It appeared that they had taken sleeping-car tickets at 
 Petersburg, and an official took them away as the train left the 
 capital. Now they were asked for, the car going no farther than the 
 frontier, for the inevitable reason that the gauge is different. The 
 Americans were told that they must pay again, and that all would be 
 made right in London, which I was perfectly certain would not be 
 the case. Whoever got money back parted with in Russia? I 
 helped them as far as I could, complimenting the courteous old 
 station-master upon his few words of English, very few certainly, but 
 the first I had ever heard a Russian railway official speak. The old 
 fellow said, looking quite shy, "Oh, no ! " and hastened away to his 
 den lest I should discover that he had got to the end of his English. 
 
 At Eydkuhnen, the first German station, it is sufficient to say
 
 198 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1893 
 
 " English " in the matter of passports to be a free man ; not so other 
 nationalities. But just then a more abrupt official confronted the 
 passenger, for the cholera was about, and a doctor passed through 
 the train before any one was allowed to alight, asking where we 
 came from. Both frontier stations smelt of carbolic and other 
 abominable disinfectants ; the Customs agent accompanied me from 
 Russian Wirballen to German Eydkuhnen to see my things through, 
 and then took his leave. The sensation of being whirled away from 
 the frontier towards Berlin by a real express, after thousands of 
 versts in crawling Russian trains, is as novel as it is pleasant. An 
 English newspaper which I got hold of commented then upon the 
 unusually severe weather we had experienced in Russia. " The 
 cold throughout almost all North and Central Russia continues most 
 intense ; such weather has not been known for many years. ... A 
 number of persons have lost their lives by exposure. In one case, 
 in the Province of Kalouga, twelve children from the villages of 
 Pretchistiensk and Nyschniago disregarded the advice of their 
 schoolmaster not to return home. They were found the next morn- 
 ing frozen to death, having been overtaken by a snowstorm." 
 
 At Berlin I confirmed in St. George's Church. A window had 
 been recently erected there in memory of Queen Victoria's Jubilee, 
 the subject being the visit of the Queen of Sheba to Solomon. A 
 small window had been also erected in the Empress Frederick's 
 Closet, representing an angel holding the shields of England and 
 Prussia together with an Imperial crown. Poor Empress Frederick ! 
 Always staunch and constant in her love to England. 
 
 After leaving BerUn I travelled back to England via Ostend — con- 
 firming and preaching at Bruges e?i route — a small migrant at this 
 flighting season taking advantage of our cutting the air in advance 
 of him. When he got within measurable distance of Dover, off the 
 Goodwins, he took leave of us, making a short cut to land.
 
 CHAPTER XX 
 
 Seventh Conference at Geneva — Lord and Lady DufTerin at the I'aris Embassy 
 — Their world-wide treasures — Up Jutland to Friedrichshavcn — A dismal, 
 wind-swept promontory — Six hours of the Cattegat's ill-humour — A cod a 
 yard long for 7^d. — Uddevalle — Winter rushes <lown from the north — 
 "Nothing more now till next June" — The cataracts of Tnillhatten — Stock- 
 holm — The Bishop of Gottland attends the English church — Visit to Shepsta, 
 where the King when Prince of Wales shot his Swedish elks — Gripsholm 
 Castle on the Miilar Lake — A Viking's grave — Lund Cathedral — Visit to the 
 British Legation at Copenhagen — The Princess of Wales attends the harvest 
 thanksgiving service at St. Alban's, Copenhagen. 
 
 ON II May I was on my way again to Germany, crossing to 
 Rotterdam en route for Wiesbaden, where I preached and 
 confirmed, going on to Darmstadt for the same purpose. Thence 
 to Stuttgart for confirmation, where I was again the guest of Count 
 and Countess Carl von Linden, always most kind and hospitable. 
 
 From Stuttgart I went to Baden for confirmation, staying with the 
 McCandless', the Americans, at their beautiful villa overlooking 
 Baden and the Black Forest. Mr. McCandless drove me to Gerns- 
 bach in the Murgthal. Ottenau is a picturesque village, full of 
 quaint old houses with carved texts upon them : " As for me and 
 my house, we will serve the Lord " ; " O house of Jacob, we will 
 walk in the light of the Lord." While trying to decipher another in 
 old German, I asked quite a poor woman in German what a word 
 meant. To my astonishment she replied in good English. She had 
 lived in New York. I had often wondered at the enormous amount 
 of veal consumed in Germany, and now learnt that all male calves, 
 as well as sheep and goats, in Germany are killed, the Government 
 supplying bulls and rams of the best type to protect the breed. How 
 truly German ! There is a tower at Gernsbach of the same architec- 
 ture as those found in Palestine built by the German Crusaders. 
 
 From Baden I went on to Freiburg, to which place Mr. 
 McCandless would have driven me with his tandem through the 
 
 199
 
 200 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1893 
 
 Black Forest had the weather been settled. The storks are hatching 
 everywhere, their nests full of young ones ; most church towers in 
 this region are so occupied. 
 
 After doing my work at Freiburg I went on into Switzerland. 
 There was a terrible drought that year in this part of Europe; 
 whole woods and forests brown, dead, burnt as by fire. The cattle 
 sniffed about on the burnt-up ground, their bones sticking out at 
 lamentable angles. In Switzerland I confirmed at Lausanne and 
 Montreux. After our annual Conference at Geneva I went up to 
 Mornex, on the Saleve, to select a site for an English church about 
 to be built by a Miss Weber, whose aunt had left money for this 
 purpose. Mornex lies between the Great and Little Saleve. There 
 are hotels and pensions around Mornex, the air being good for 
 nerve troubles, and the view up the Mont Blanc valley toward 
 Chamounix is very fine. The run along the left bank of the Rhone 
 to Bellegarde is extremely grand. The gorge through the Jura is 
 very narrow, a mere rent in the mountains made by the Rhone, and 
 is defended by the forts wedged into the rocky heights like martins' 
 nests. One of these forts is actually upon the line of railway from 
 Geneva to Bellegarde on the right bank of the river, the railway 
 running upon a mere ledge blasted out of the rock; the other is 
 perched upon a lofty, rocky height above the lower fort. I was now 
 on my way to Lyons. The journey from Culoz — the junction for 
 Mont Cenis and Italy — is through precipitous walls of rock, not 
 unlike the Cheddar Cliffs, magnified manifold. At Lyons I con- 
 firmed, returning to Paris by the Mediterranean express, which does 
 the four hundred miles from Lyons to Paris in eight hours with only 
 three stops. 
 
 I had not before met Lord and Lady Dufferin, then at the Paris 
 Embassy. He was older in appearance than I had expected, and 
 very French in manner, taking one's hand in both of his, and hold- 
 ing it for some time, talking the while. He was an " adaptive " and 
 exceedingly delightful man, doing in each Rome of his appointment 
 what the particular Romans amongst whom he found himself did. 
 She rather tall, slight, and dark-complexioned. I met at dinner 
 their sons, daughters, attaches, Monsieur and Madame Waddington, 
 and others. I had much talk with Lady Dufferin about Canada, 
 Russia, and India. After dinner Lord Dufferin talked over his 
 Indian life, of which topic he never seemed to weary, and showed me 
 many valuable things collected by him through a life of distinguished
 
 i«93J LORD AND LADY DUFFKRIN 201 
 
 service in all parts of the world. Where usually flowers arc laid 
 amongst the central plate of a dinner table, were wreaths of gold 
 bullion of Indian workmanship, which were hung around their 
 necks when making their vice-regal tours amongst the princes and 
 rajahs of India, as described by Lady Dufferin in Our Vice-Ket^al 
 Life in India. In the centre of the table stood the gold casket in 
 which the freedom of the City of London was presented to him, the 
 same in size and shape as that presented to the German Em- 
 peror. Opposite this stood a solid gold image of lihudda, set 
 thickly with diamonds. To this Lord Dufferin evidently attached 
 great value. It was given to him by King Theebaw. At either end 
 of the table stood caskets of highly chased silver in which addresses 
 had been presented. Another treasure to which he called my 
 attention was a silver casket from Burma, in which the king kept 
 his drinking cup, also a model in silver of an apparatus employed in 
 building the great railway bridge over the Indus at Attock. In the 
 drawing-room Lady Dufferin showed me a magnificent collection of 
 large photographs in a series of albums — of all parts of India, 
 temples, shrines, forts, cities, rivers, mountains in endless order. 
 The French could not altogether forget that Lord Dufferin had had 
 much to do with Egypt, and this made his position here perhaps 
 not quite so pleasant as some of his other posts. At Paris there is 
 always much church work to be done, visiting the Governesses' and 
 Artists' Institutes, Victoria Home, Hertford Hospital, besides recep- 
 tions, dinner and luncheon parties, sermons, confirmations, committee 
 meetings, which, if detailed now and upon every occasion when 
 visiting the larger chaplaincies, would weary the reader as much as 
 they invariably weary me. They must be taken as read. 
 
 One day I drove with Lady Dufferin and her mother to the Girls' 
 Friendly Society Lodge, in which she took great interest. In turn- 
 ing a corner one of the horses fell, and staggered so violently that I 
 was afraid the other would take fright and the carriage be upset. 
 Lady Dufferin, as those are aware who have read Our Vice-Rciial 
 Life, is very nervous when driving — painfully so. I got her and her 
 mother out as quickly as I could, for the horse that was down had, 
 in struggling, got on to the trottoir, and was dragging the other 
 towards a shop window. The coachman, who was English, and 
 therefore kept his head, could not, of course, leave the box ; the 
 footman, who was French, fled; it did not matter however, since 
 had he stayed he would have been of no use, nor was there one in
 
 202 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [i893 
 
 the motley crowd which gathered around one that rendered the 
 smallest assistance. Expletives there were in abundance; of 
 parbleu, ma fois, regardez done, sacrcs by the score, which did not, 
 however, get the horses upon their legs again. I kept by the horse 
 that was still standing, but ready at any moment to bolt, whilst the 
 coachman got down and tried to unharness the other ; as he was 
 doing so the fallen animal struggled up, and the situation, which 
 was really a nasty one, was saved. From Paris I returned to 
 England, confirming at Boulogne e}i route. 
 
 In the autumn I visited my Scandinavian chaplaincies. This 
 time by a novel route, as the cholera was raging in Hamburg, and 
 that way was closed to me. From Parkeston Quay on 4 Sept- 
 ember I left by the Botnia, direct for Esbjerg on the outer Danish 
 coast. , Passing along the shores of Suffolk and Norfolk on a lovely 
 afternoon, we lost sight of land in the growing dusk, passing through 
 a fleet of Yarmouth and Lowestoft fishing-boats. All the next day 
 we were out upon the North Sea, with not a sail in sight, nothing 
 around us but gulls, cormorants, divers, and other sea birds. To- 
 wards evening a haze gathered, and it was not easy to see the buoys 
 marking the channel to the low raking coast upon which Esbjerg 
 lies. The captain ordered half speed, the navigation being very 
 intricate, and compassed with sandbanks, upon which he told us 
 many a ship had been lost. He and his mate peered long and 
 anxiously through the mist, and were evidently relieved to catch 
 sight of the welcome buoys marking our channel, predicting a nasty 
 night. 
 
 Esbjerg is a wretched place, only twenty-five years old, opened as 
 a port upon the North Sea after the German-Danish War of 1864, 
 which took everything from Denmark up to Esbjerg, this being the 
 only outside port she now possesses. Esbjerg is not lighted with a 
 lamp of any kind, and in dismal darkness we had to wait five hours 
 before beginning the night journey up Jutland to Friedrichshaven. 
 Jutland is a dreary, wind-swept promontory, as any atlas will show, 
 the restless North Sea on one side, and the ever-stormy Cattegat on 
 the other; a bleak, wild, weird, lonesome, uncanny sort of land. 
 Magpies, grey crows, buzzards, and screaming sea birds abound. 
 The houses are placed in little hollows, protected by trees, as well 
 they may be in this wind-scourged region. The sea appears re- 
 peatedly on either side. Each house has its mill on the roof, and 
 never, I should imagine, any lack of wind to turn them. The farm-
 
 ^^93] "GIANT'S CAULDRONS" 20^ 
 
 steads are built in scjuares, with courtyards for prolcclioii against ihc 
 elements. The divisions of land aru mostly by nunmds, rijninding 
 one of the heptarchy divisions of our own country on a small scale. 
 This mode of division came from hence, as also the (juicksct hedge 
 which abounds in South Jutland— or Angleland— where the fields 
 entirely resemble our own. In North Jutland the land is wilder 
 and more open. The cottages built of wattle and daub, timbered 
 and plastered, or bricked and plastered, and beautifully thatched, as 
 in Norfolk and Suffolk. Three times a week a small steamer plies 
 between Friedrichshaven— a little port situated at the extreme 
 beak of Jutland on the wild Skaggerack — and Goteborg. The 
 Skagger looked fairly good-tempered, but it is ever wicked and 
 treacherous at heart, never reliable for two consecutive hours, and 
 when we were well in its clutches gave the "Blenda" (the Brenda, 
 no doubt, of Sir W. Scott) six good hours of its ill-humour. I was 
 not sorry to get into Goteborg after three days and two nights of it. 
 On exploring the outskirts of the town next day, I renewed the 
 acquaintance, made when a boy, with the curious funnel-shaped 
 holes called in Scandinavia " giant's cauldrons." They were worked 
 in the granite rocks, by a still harder stone, when this part of 
 Sweden was under the sea, or on the sea border. As the tide 
 worked the stones round and round these great funnels were formed, 
 some being three yards across and probably sixteen feet deep. 
 
 This is the season for Scandinavia : the sweetness of the climate 
 can only be realized by experience. The air is deliciously mellow, 
 the evening colouring superbly beautiful, the atmosphere almost nil; 
 one looks straight through what there is into the far-away distance of 
 mountains, hills, coast-line, islands, which stand out sharp and 
 brilliant in colour and detail. Here I confirmed and did other 
 work. The fish market is worth a visit, as all Scandinavian fish 
 markets are. I saw a grand halibut ten feet long, and a cod a 
 yard long for 7^d. 
 
 Upon leaving Goteborg I went by steamer to Uddevalla upon a 
 visit to our Consul, Mr. Thorburn. On the way in a maze of 
 rock-bound coast lay the Hull and Grinibby steamers in quarantine, 
 the black flag flying, for the cholera at Hamburg was just then the 
 dread of Scandinavia. A steamer, with a doctor on board, was 
 cruising at the mouth of the Gotha and stopping all vessels coming 
 in, the quarantine being five days. The first two hours of the 
 passage is through bleak, bare, weird granite islands and rocky
 
 204 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1893 
 
 promontories. Then the coast improves as more rocks and reefs 
 are placed between the inner channels and the hungry savage 
 Cattegat. The space between the granite rocks gradually becomes 
 clothed with pines and patches of cultivation; wooden houses, 
 white, red, yellow, nestle here and there in crevices and sheltered 
 nooks. At certain picturesque points little houses are built by 
 the merchants and residents of Goteborg for summer residence, 
 making the wooded shores very bright and cheerful. At Uddevalla 
 I was met by the British Consul and driven out to his pretty place 
 Casan, situated upon a gentle slope above the fiord, the gardens as 
 a foreground running down to the water, wath the loveliest Swedish 
 view possible across to the little hamlet of Gustafberg on the 
 opposite shore. The prettily wooded garden and grounds with a 
 little stream tumbling through them, the fine avenue of trees, the 
 rough, sloping, park-like ground falling to the fiord, the brilliantly 
 coloured rocks interspersed with pine woods on the other shore 
 made up a rare picture of Scandinavian scenery. 
 
 Our chaplain at Gdteborg travelled this summer on his bicycle 
 from that town to Odde in Norway and back, a remarkable journey 
 of about one thousand miles ; the road mountainous, terribly lonely, 
 and passing scarcely any one on the way. At one point of the 
 journey he had to push his cycle forty consecutive miles, and at 
 times was hard set for food. 
 
 While at Casan the equinox broke upon us, and in a few hours 
 the storm, rushing down from the north, crushed all Hfe out of the 
 flowers in the beautiful gardens, leaving nothing but a dreary wreck- 
 strewn scene. " Nothing now till next June," said the Consul, and 
 it spoke eloquently of the long Scandinavian winter lying between. 
 A very old and blind woman had been sitting daily at the edge of 
 the little orchard knitting in the faint autumnal sun, endeavouring 
 to warm her old bones. This blast from the north drove her 
 away. I do not think she will feel the warmth of another summer, 
 poor old soul; and seemed to have been making the best of the 
 little warmth remaining in this. 
 
 Upon leaving pretty Casan, I went to TroUhatten. Approach- 
 ing the Gotha River, which has but lately left the great Wettern 
 Lake, the train passes through black blasted rocks ; suddenly 
 emerging from their dark walls, it crosses the iron bridge which 
 spans the whirl of rapids as they hasten to the falls. I had not 
 seen them since 1859, and was glad of th« opportunity of refresh-
 
 1893] SWEDISH NATIONAL MUSKUM 205 
 
 ing my memory. All is much changed since tliosc days. Then 
 there was but a wooden inn, now a stone hotel. A large iron bridge 
 now spans the narrowest part of the gorge through which the mighty 
 volume of water roars and crashes its way. The best view of the 
 falls is obtained by scrambling down upon the rocky slopes imme- 
 diately under the bridge, and then climbing to a ridge of rock upon 
 the very edge of the chasm. You are then only just above the 
 boiling waters, which turn in great green domes over the granite 
 rocks worn smooth by ages of their action, and then break in wild 
 wastes of foam and mist on to the next terrace of no less than three 
 miles of gorge and cataract. On these rocks is a fine specimen of 
 the funnel-shaped giant cauldrons already described. The second 
 fall is best seen from the gallery of a saw-mill, a perilous, slippery, 
 and somewhat rotten old erection hanging just over the abyss of 
 waters. I think it was here in 1859 ; no wonder it has rotted in the 
 everlasting mist and spray. These falls precipitate by far the 
 largest volume of water in Europe. I had just time to hurry 
 down and look at the eight great locks which carry the canal and 
 its ships stair by stair past the falls. The Swedes are very proud of 
 them, and well they may be. They are the work of Ericson, the 
 Swedish engineer. Three miles of lock and canal, the first such 
 ever made, and the finest in the world. 
 
 From here I went via Goteborg to Stockholm, where I was 
 the guest of Lord and Lady Gough at the Grand Hotel. The 
 Djurgarten looked quiet and restful at this season — nearly deserted 
 by all summer wanderers. A new theatre was being built at Hassel- 
 backen, and being in Scandinavian style, looks like a Stave kirke. 
 The view from the Grand Hotel upon the edge of the brilliant, clear 
 water as it pours out from the Miilar Lake into the Baltic is the best 
 in Stockholm. Immediately opposite is the palace and the Riddar- 
 holmen, or Knight's Island, on which stands, not only the palace, 
 but the Parliament House, Government buildings, and the Riddar, 
 or Knight's Church, the "Westminster Abbey" of the Swedes. 
 The National Museum contains a good collection of the Swedish 
 school of painting. Tideman's are always good, as are also Lind- 
 holm's sea-pieces. Tonen has a most graphic picture of a Lap boy, 
 who, with his herd of reindeer, has been overtaken by and lost in a 
 snowstorm. He lies dead, his reindeer around him half buried in 
 the snow, and dead also. His arm is stretched affectionately around 
 one of them, upon which his body partly rests. A search party has
 
 2o6 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1893 
 
 arrived ; the owners of the herd are digging the dead beasts out of 
 the snow. The most pathetic figure is the boy's mother, who has 
 come with the search-party, and sits by the dead body of her son 
 indifferent to all else, and gazing fixedly with a terrible sadness at 
 his pale, set face — the one touch of nature which makes the picture 
 what it is. Another is the bringing of the body of Charles XII 
 back to Sweden from Frederichshall, on the Norwegian frontier. 
 The administration of the last Sacrament to a dying soldier in the 
 Franco-German War is a large and very fine picture. Another, still 
 larger, is the citizens of Wisby bringing their treasures by compul- 
 sion — gold and silver plate, etc. — and laying it all at the feet of the 
 hated King of Denmark. The Scandinavian school deserves to be 
 much better known than it is. Most people, even with some interest 
 in, if not knowledge of, pictures, seem scarcely to know of its exist- 
 ence. A huge lift takes the passenger nowadays up to a lofty Mosen- 
 bach, from which there is an extensive view of Stockholm and the 
 islands away down towards the Baltic. The passages about the 
 Grand Hotel are named as streets — "Paris Gaten," " Christiania 
 Gaten," etc. Swedish hotels only sleep you ; your food you must get 
 at a restaurant attached and belonging to the hotel. This is an 
 inconvenience ; it breaks the continuity of servants, service, etc. 
 When I preached on the Sunday the Bishop of Gottland was present, 
 and again at the confirmation I held in the afternoon. I was told 
 that he paid the greatest attention to, and seemed deeply interested 
 in, the service. Upon the island of Skepsholm, or Ships Island, 
 stands the Admiralty building. It is the pretty, quiet resort by the 
 waterside of the Stockholm people, who sit about under the trees 
 and listen to the band. 
 
 Upon leaving Stockholm I went to stay at Mr. Axel Dickson's 
 pretty place, Shepsta, about seventy miles from Stockholm. Shepsta 
 is a lovely old Swedish place of the best type. It belongs to Baron 
 Oscar Dickson, his brother, Mr. Axel Dickson, managing the pro- 
 perty. Charming gardens and grounds surround the house, which 
 is composed of a central block and two detached wings forming a 
 courtyard. The other side of the house looks out immediately 
 upon a large natural lake some two miles long, and bounded on 
 either side by rocks and pine forest. The King, when Prince 
 of Wales, stayed here when elk-shooting with the King of Sweden 
 in 1885. Mr. Dickson tells many stories connected with the King's 
 and Prince's visit. Prince Eugene of Sweden could not speak much
 
 ^^93] GRIPSHOLM CASTLK 307 
 
 English. Killing his first elk, he came up lu an ucjucrry (juilc 
 excited, and said, " I first blessed {/>kss^ the elk, and then I killed 
 it." At dinner in the evening the Prince of Wales said lo him, 
 " Well, Prince Eugene, I am glad to hear that you blessed the elk 
 before you killed it ! " 
 
 Mr. Dickson has made a tremendously powerful shower and 
 douche bath. Under the leat which carries the water of the river 
 from the lake to the water-mills, a small bathing house has been 
 built. The bather pulls one of the two strings, when down comes 
 either a shower or a douche bath strong enough almost to carry him 
 down into the jaws of the saw-mills. 
 
 We drove one day to Gripsholm Castle on the Malar Lake, 
 passing on our way a fine example of a Viking's grave, an enormous 
 cairn of rock and stone, sixty feet high, four hundred yards round, 
 and situated on the wooded promontory of a lake. It has never 
 been opened, but is supposed to contain not only the Viking's 
 body, but his ship. The summit is depressed like an extinct 
 volcano, upon which fir trees have sprung up. This depression is 
 supposed to be the consequence of the large ship and other deposits 
 having rotted. 
 
 The old castle of Gripsholm, the most historic in Sweden, is 
 situated on an arm of the Malar Lake. It consists of a pentagonal 
 building of enormous bulk, flanked by four massive domed towers, 
 each different in shape and size. It contains an immense number 
 of rooms, and miles of portraits. Two rooms are shown in which 
 Eric XIV confined his brother John, and in which eventually John 
 confined his brother Eric. The castle, which no doubt stood at one 
 time on an island, is under restoration. The quiet, dull little town 
 of Mariefried stands by the castle, and no doubt lives — if it can be 
 said to live — upon it. 
 
 Mr. Dickson told me that children in Sweden walk ten miles to 
 school, which begins at 9 a.m. and ends at 3 p.m. Fancy mites of 
 seven to fourteen years walking twenty miles a day to and from 
 school ! In the winter the schools are closed. I saw, as we drove 
 through the forests, a great grey shrike, and two large spotted 
 woodpeckers. The black alder grows hereabout to a great sire, 
 looking in the distance like fine old elms. 
 
 The Miss Dicksons wear the Dalecarlian dress, which is very 
 picturesque in shape and bizarre in colour. All the employes on the 
 estate live in cottages near by, forming quite a little street. One
 
 2o8 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1893 
 
 sees how our English villages grew up : first the homestead, and 
 then its dependent surroundings. Mr. Dickson's youngest son was 
 leaving for Canada, and the family, feeling the separation keenly, 
 wished to receive the Holy Communion with him before he went. 
 They are seventy miles from the English church— Stockholm— and 
 I celebrated for them. I left my kind friends of this excellent 
 family to return southwards on my way back to England, travelling 
 through the night, and halting at Lund to see the cathedral. A fine, 
 cruciform, Romanesque building of the same style and date as the 
 larger churches on the Rhine— Boppart, Andernach, Coblenz. The 
 splendid Swedish limestone— of which in part our church at Copen- 
 hagen is built— has stood this severe climate for eight hundred 
 years, and bears the chisel marks as plainly as the day it was cut. 
 Two Norman towers, as we should call them, stand at the west 
 end with three stories of small windows. These towers are capped 
 with conical stone roofs. On one side of the cathedral is a close, 
 planted with trees, and laid out with walks, beyond which are the 
 university buildings. The crypt is one of the largest in Europe. 
 
 The market here, like all northern markets, is worth a visit : bread 
 
 of all kinds, shapes, and colours; wild deer, capercailzies and grouse, 
 
 eels, perch, pike, live crayfish, cheese of a dozen kinds, and 
 
 brilliant gown stuffs, aprons, etc., such as Scandinavians delight to 
 
 adorn themselves with in this their gloomy climate. Little vans bring 
 
 the goods from the country ; the sides take down, and the goods 
 
 are exposed for sale without the erection of booths. From a hill 
 
 behind the town the Sound can be seen for many miles either way, 
 
 and on a clear day the Danish coast, with the towers and spires of 
 
 Copenhagen. At Malmo there is not much to see. The town hall 
 
 is an interesting old building, with much carved stonework. The 
 
 Petros kirke, near by, is a grand type of the old churches of 
 
 Schleswig-Holstein and Pomerania ; red brick, but old, and toned 
 
 down to a beauteous colour. Some of the lancet windows must be 
 
 forty feet high. The tower is lofty but heavy. The apse gracefully 
 
 supported by flying buttresses from the lower and upper roofs. 
 
 As we ran into Copenhagen we passed what was then the familiar 
 sight at this autumn season, the Osborne flying the St. George's 
 ensign. A little further on the gigantic Pole Star, the Czar's yacht, 
 and lying near, the smaller Czarevitch. The Pole Star is new. She 
 is of enormous proportions, capable of dining one hundred in her 
 saloon. She looks like a great sloop of war, the St. Andrew's cross
 
 i893] HARVEST THANKSGIVING 209 
 
 flying at the fore. Upon arriving at the (luay I found ilic Scotts' 
 carriage awaiting me, and I drove to the Embassy, where I was 
 the guest of Mr. and Mrs. (now Sir Charles and I^idy) Scott. Mr. 
 Scott was on the Delagoa Bay Raihvay Commission when at Heme, 
 and told me much as to its probable settlement, in which I was 
 interested. In the evening a telegram came from the Princess of 
 Wales, who was at Fredensborg, asking if the service next day could 
 be arranged for 10.45 a.m. instead of 12, or be shortened, as she 
 had to come in with the Russian Royal Family, who were attending 
 their own church, and then lunch with them on the Pole Star. 
 Mr. Scott consulted me as to what had better be done. Not liking 
 to shorten the service, I advised that we should begin at 10.45 a-'^-i 
 sending notice to the Osborne and residents. On Sunday morning I 
 drove to the English church with Mr. Scott, passing on the way the 
 Russian church, where a crowd was gathered to see the Russian 
 Royal Family arrive. The guard was in mourning, as was also the 
 Czar, on account of a Russian war vessel having been lost in the 
 Baltic with ten officers and fifty men in the gales of the previous 
 week, and the service was of a memorial character. Upon arriving 
 at the English church, which was beautifully decorated for the 
 harvest festival and crowded from east to west, I robed, and then 
 went out into the porch with the Ambassador and Legation staff to 
 receive the Princess and her daughters. Punctually at 10.45, ^^ 
 arranged, they and their suite arrived in the Danish royal carriages. 
 The Princess of Wales, who was still in deep mourning for Prince 
 Albert Victor, stopped with the Princesses, saying with a saddened 
 smile a few kindly words. As the choir were standing behind ready 
 to begin the processional hymn, we then all passed in and the 
 service began. I preached the harvest sermon, and confirmed in 
 the afternoon. 
 
 I revisited the Thorwaldsen Museum with Mr. Scott, who then 
 took me to the royal stables to see the horses. They have plenty of 
 work when the Czar is here. When he drives out he seldom returns 
 by the same route or even in the same carriage. Not unfrequently 
 the whole party take cabs for the return portion of the drive, or 
 plain, hired carriages, thus defeating any attempts upon his life. A 
 large reception brought everybody together in Copenhagen— the 
 Ambassador and Mrs. Scott, with Secretaries of Legation, the 
 captain and officers of the Osborfie, and a large general gathering 
 of English and Danes. On 26 September I left my kind and
 
 2IO CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1893 
 
 hospitable friends at the Legation, Mr. Scott driving with me to the 
 station to see me off. I travelled over the islands to Fredericia. 
 On a Danish goods van I saw the word " Maximal-last." Here is the 
 Danish word used at Yarmouth to represent a certain weight of 
 herrings. 
 
 From Fredericia I had to return to England, as I had come, by 
 Esbjerg, in consequence of the cholera still raging at Hamburg, 
 crossing to Harwich in a wretched slow craft, irritatingly called the 
 Express.
 
 CHAPTER XXI 
 
 Brussels— The Wiertz and national collection of pictures— Biarritz— Peninsular 
 War memorial in English church— Drive through an historic district of ihc 
 campaign— The Baronne de Gez, a noble victim of the French Revolution- 
 Consecration of St. Andrew's Church at Pau— Two hundred miles of the 
 snowy Pyrenees— Brief flight into Brittany— The cholera at Hamlnirg— Kigiuh 
 annual Conference at Dresden— New church at Weimar through the interest 
 of the Grand Duke — " Herzliche Segenswiinclie fiir die conlirniation " — 
 Professor Godet, the commentator. 
 
 THE year 1894 began with a journey to Belgium, confirming at 
 Calais and Croix en route, and subsequently at Antwerp and 
 Brussels, candidates coming from Ostend, l^iruges, and Ghent. At 
 Brussels I was the guest of Lord and Lady Elibank. But few 
 people seem to know the Wiertz gallery of pictures at Brussels. He 
 must have been a half-crazy, certainly a very horror-possessed, artist. 
 The largest picture is a crucifixion. An enormous angel drives Satan 
 and his host from under the cross at the supreme moment of the 
 Saviour's death ; Satan being represented as a woman, according to 
 an old legend. "The Visions of a Head Cut Off" is enough to 
 terrify any head into insanity. One of these horrors represents a 
 man pushing up the lid of his coffin, and looking hideously out of it. 
 This is supposed to have foundation in fact — the incident is said to 
 have happened during the cholera at Brussels. A mad woman 
 about to boil her child in a copper, and Napoleon in Hades are 
 both surpassingly horrible. In the latter the denizens of the lower 
 regions crowd around, and show Napoleon the misery and suffering 
 he caused the world : shattered limbs, bodies bleeding, rent and 
 torn, starvation, wounds, and agonizing deaths. Truly if Napoleon 
 is living amongst these results of his earthly career, he must be 
 shocked at, even if he has not repented of, his evil deeds. It is a 
 relief to turn into the National Museum of Pictures, which contains 
 a really fine collection of old and new masters. Hobbemas, 
 
 211
 
 212 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1894 
 
 Ruysdaels, Berchems, Van der Veldtes, Honderkooters, Van Goyens. 
 On the modern side are many worth noting. I will only name two 
 or three which struck me as particularly good. One is Marat being 
 stabbed in his bath by Charlotte Corday. Thomas's pictures are life- 
 size and fascinating. Judas after the Saviour's betrayal and condem- 
 nation to death wanders alone in the darkness of that terrible night 
 through the purlieus of Jerusalem, and turning suddenly round a 
 rocky knoll comes upon two ruffianly, half-clad men, asleep by a 
 dying fire. By its fading light is seen a huge cross nearly finished, 
 the tools lying around. The face of Judas as he throws up his arms 
 in agonized remorse is exceedingly powerful. The silence, the loneli- 
 ness, the fire made of rough ends and chips of the cross, the horrible 
 reality of it all rivets the attention. Another of his, in the same 
 connexion, is the Saviour's body being carried to Joseph of 
 Arimathea's garden. Barabbas runs past with broken chains still 
 upon his legs, dragging his little boy, and followed by his wife. 
 Terrified flight and fear are upon all three faces, especially upon that 
 of Barabbas, as he turns and looks upon the silent face and rigid 
 body of Him Who was condemned rather than himself, and had 
 suffered the death which he deserved. I was so much interested 
 in this gallery that I revisited it the next day in company with my 
 host. Lord Elibank. 
 
 From Brussels I travelled direct via Paris to Arcachon. I had 
 left Brussels in bitter snow and frost, and found here in less than 
 twenty-four hours everything budding and blossoming into spring, 
 which begins here in February. After a short stay at Arcachon I 
 went on to Biarritz. Near Bayonne are plantations of cork trees; 
 the bark is taken off to about six feet from the ground, which gives 
 the trees a naked appearance, but does not seem to injure the 
 foliage or the growth of the trees, a provision, doubtless, of nature, or 
 the cork tree would, after the first stripping, be useless. At Biarritz 
 I stayed several days, confirming, preaching, and doing some work 
 for the continental branch of the Girls' Friendly Society ; Lady 
 Vincent, its secretary, being here for the winter. In the porch of 
 the English church— which is a large and handsome building, hold- 
 ing some seven hundred people— is a monument recording the 
 names of officers and non-commissioned officers who fell in this 
 region during the Peninsular War, Vittoria, Bidassoa, Nive, Nivelle, 
 Bayonne, Orthez, and Toulouse. It runs thus : " Pristinae virtutis 
 memor. This porch, dedicated to the memory of the officers, non-
 
 i894] AN HISTORIC DISTRICT 
 
 commissioned officers, and men of the British Army, who fell in the 
 south-west of France from October yth, 1813, to April ,4th, 18.4 
 was erected by their fellow soldiers and compatriots, a.d. 1882' 
 ' Give peace in our time, O Lord.'" " Her Majesty Queen Victoria 
 visited this memorial 30 March, 1889." 
 
 Understanding that Princess Frederica of Hanover, who lives at 
 Biarritz, wished to see me, I called at her villa, and knowing how ill 
 she had been, only intended writing my name in her book ; being 
 told, however, that the princess was expecting me, I went in, and sat 
 with her some time. She is sister of the Duke of Cumberland, and 
 daughter of the late King of Hanover. From Biarritz Lady 
 Vincent drove me for confirmation to St. Jean de Luz, an interest- 
 ing drive of twelve miles, passing the scenes of many engagements 
 between the Duke of Wellington's and Marshal Soult's troops, with 
 the full view of the Spanish mountains and the end of the Pyrenees 
 continuously before us. We passed the famous Mairie, now a farm- 
 house, which was taken and retaken so many times by English and 
 French. It is a picturesque old house, standing back in its own 
 garden, and surrounded by trees. To the south lies a wood, which 
 formed a shelter for our troops in their attacks upon the position. 
 It may be perfectly calm and breathless here on this coast, as it was 
 then, and yet the enormous Atlantic waves come rolling in like 
 Sussex downs, and breaking on the digue are thrown high into the 
 air, streaming over the masonry in perfectly white sheets of 
 foam. Mr. Webster, our late chaplain of St. Jean de Luz, and then 
 a resident at Saar, in the Pyrenees, was highly gratified at Mr. 
 Gladstone having obtained for him a Civil Service grant of ^i^i 50, in 
 recognition of his scholarship and researches into the Basque 
 language, of which he is a perfect master. Upon both occasions of 
 his visits to Biarritz the Prime Minister had sent for, and inter- 
 viewed him upon his historical and philosophical studies. 
 
 Upon leaving St. Jean de Luz I again visited beautiful Argeles. 
 The finest view in or near Argeles is from the cemetery ; the snowy 
 Viscos, 7000 feet, and still more snowy Cabaleros, 8000, with 
 their attendant peaks, look down upon this lovely resting-place. An 
 English boy, son of our chaplain, who died of consumption, is 
 buried here. He loved the mountains, and longed to live that he 
 might climb them, but it was ordered otherwise. Upon his tomb- 
 stone are engraved the words, " Vitam petivit a Te, et tribuisti ei 
 longitudinem dierum in sa^culum ct in saiculum sa^culi." He has
 
 214 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1894 
 
 attained his heart's desire, and more ; he hves, and has climbed 
 infinitely higher than if he had remained here below; above the 
 snows, storms, temptations, and evils to come of these earthly 
 mountains. The loveliest walk from Argeles is that past the 
 cemetery to Gez, a quaint little village perched among the Spanish 
 chestnut groves. There we called at the house of the old Bayonne 
 de Gez, which is only a fragment of what must have been a chateau 
 of some pretension. There are remains of muUioned windows of 
 black marble, with a doorway of the same surmounted by a coat-of- 
 arms of the Baroness's family, with the fleur-de-lis conspicuously 
 carved upon the shield. We mounted into a large upper room by a 
 black marble staircase. The Baroness welcomed us, asked us to sit 
 down, poured us out wine of the valley, and cut us bread from a 
 huge black loaf. All was peasant-like, and severely simple, to 
 poverty, but the old lady showed her noble descent by her still 
 delicate features and gentle, gracious manner, which poverty and 
 hardship had not obliterated. The fireplace was large and open; 
 arms and fleurs-de-lis carved above it, though defaced and partly 
 torn down by revolutionary fanatics. Thus in these out-of-the-way 
 parts of France are still to be found remnants and wrecks of good 
 old noble French families reduced to penury and want. Here the 
 ruin had certainly been complete. She was married to a peasant, 
 who cut firewood, which she took down the mountain in a little cart, 
 and sold in the valley. Mrs. Foster, my hostess, being struck by 
 her appearance and manner when she came to sell her wood, found 
 her out in her mountain home, and established the acquaintance 
 which she allowed me to share. 
 
 The view to the left of the old Baronne's house, at a turn of the 
 road, from which the whole range of snow mountains on the other 
 side of the valley stand up and tower above the foreground of chest- 
 nut trees, is perfect. I saw in a bird-stuffer's shop in Argeles several 
 birds, no doubt common there, but some of them rare with us in 
 England : three scops-eared owls, a great horned owl, a kite, a 
 peregrine falcon, a curlew, a chough, a great grey shrike, a snow- 
 bunting, and two or three other small birds which I did not know. 
 
 From Argeles I went to Pau, preaching, confirming in the three 
 churches, and consecrating the new church of St. Andrew, the 
 four chaplains of Pau and the chaplain of Argeles taking part in 
 the service ; the two churchwardens. Lord Kilmainham and Sir 
 J. Nugent, being in the procession round the church. The Bishop
 
 i894] THE CHOLERA AT HAM15i;R(i ,15 
 
 of Bedford (Billing) was spending the winter at i'au, but was too ill 
 to take any part in the proceedings. From the Place Henri I\' 
 about two hundred miles of the snowy Pyrenees are seen, the Pic 
 du Midi rising like a great inverted two-fanged tooth. The Vignmal, 
 which is in Spain, just peers over the nearer ranges ; the Maladetu, 
 which is the loftiest peak, is not visible from Pau. On my way 
 back I stayed to confirm at Bordeaux, travelling on to Paris, preach- 
 ing and confirming in both churches. Halting at Boulogne for 
 confirmation, I returned to England by Folkestone. 
 
 After a stay of only twelve days in England, I crossed the Channel 
 again to Brittany, where I inspected the newly-built church just 
 finished at Parame, confirmed and preached at St. Servan and 
 Dinard, dedicating a new organ in the latter church, and returned 
 to England. 
 
 The Hook of Holland route was now open, and the Great Eastern 
 steamers were dropping their through passengers there for the north 
 and east of Europe. This was a great convenience and boon to one 
 like myself, who always use this route when travelling to or from 
 North Germany, Scandinavia, and Russia. On 8 May I went by 
 the Hook boat from Harwich to Rotterdam, where I had work 
 of varied kind. The German Government began also at this time 
 to build fine large corridor carriages with lavatories and dining-cars, 
 another great accession of convenience and comfort. By one of 
 these I travelled on to Hamburg. The seats are numbered, and on 
 some trains two marks extra is charged for the whole journey ; one 
 mark for a certain number of kilometres. Passengers can, under 
 this arrangement, leave their seat and resume it as their freehold fur 
 the journey as they please. 
 
 This was my first visit to Hamburg since the cholera. Mr. 
 Dundas, the Consul, now Lord Melville, whose children I con- 
 firmed, and with whom I stayed, told me that the epidemic was 
 entirely due to drinking the contaminated river water. The point 
 at which the water was conducted by pipes to the city was beliAv the 
 suburbs, and therefore corrupted by the suburban drains ! In one 
 day alone eleven hundred cases occurred; the highest mortality 
 in one day being six hundred out of a population of five hundred 
 thousand. This culpable carelessness has cost Hamburg dear, the 
 city having had to spend ;,{^65o,ooo upon the new water supply. 
 It is now obtained by the finest waterworks in Europe some miles up 
 the river, and conveyed beneath its bed to the city, each drop being
 
 2i6 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [i»94 
 
 taken for twenty-four hours through a system of enormous filters. 
 The death-rate now is less than that of London, only 15 per cent., 
 London being 22 per cent. 
 
 From Hamburg I went to Hanover. A Mr. Pflugel brought his 
 boys over from Bremen for confirmation. He is an interesting 
 man ; has lived in Kamschatka and Alaska, where he was attached 
 to the telegraph staff with Kennan, the author of Siheriati Prisons. 
 He is terribly frostbitten — one eye being quite gone, and his face 
 and forehead deeply scarred. He told me that frostbite spread like 
 a leprosy, arsenic being the best remedy. I told him that I had 
 employed the same for the frostbites I had experienced in Russia. 
 He spoke of the feet of his Esquimaux dogs being frozen to the 
 ground in Kamschatka. 
 
 Leaving Hamburg on Saturday, 12 May, and being anxious to 
 spend Sunday in BerUn, I made a good day's work of it by travel- 
 ling to Hanover (150 miles) by express, confirming and attending a 
 reception, and then finishing up the day with another two hundred 
 miles of express travelling to Berlin. I felt, at the end of it, that I 
 had earned my bed. Colonel Swayne, our military attache, told me 
 that every day during the past month he had attended the German 
 Emperor at some review or other, and that His Majesty was much 
 exercised as to the uniform he was to wear as colonel of the Queen's 
 I St Dragoon Guards. I left cards at the Emperor and Empress's 
 palace, both being absent from Berlin. A morning rarely, if ever, 
 passes without regiments of cavalry or infantry and batteries of artillery 
 passing along Wilhelm Strasse, in which our Embassy is situated. 
 
 Our Conference this year was held at Dresden, and thither I 
 went from Berlin to preside at its sessions. All was done exceed- 
 ingly well, and we had a very successful gathering. At the con- 
 clusion of the Conference I confirmed the English and American 
 candidates in All Saints' Church, and attended the usual large 
 receptions which abound in Dresden, and, indeed, form part, more 
 or less, of my work at all chaplaincy visitations. From Dresden I 
 went through the chaplaincies of Leipzig, Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, 
 Weimar, and Gotha, preaching and confirming in the churches. 
 At Weimar, the Grand Duke wishing to see me, I went out to 
 Belvedere, his palace, of old-fashioned German architecture, with 
 pretty park and gardens. It is well situated at the end of a fine 
 old avenue of horse-chestnuts. The Grand Duchess was in Holland, 
 but I sat for some time talking; with the Grand Duke about our
 
 i«94] THE GRAND DUCHRSS OF liADHN 217 
 
 proposed new church, in which he w;is very inuc h intc-rcstcd. 1 
 advised a committee of those English students educated in Weimar, 
 many of whom the Grand Duke remembered. He gave me a list 
 of them, and a very remarkable one it was : the Duke of Wellingion, 
 Lord Douro, Sir W. Hunter, Lord A. Loftus, Lord Harewo«xl, 
 Lord Aylesford, Lord Euston, Lord Chesham, Sir E. Lewis, Lord 
 Foley, Hon. N. Eliot, Hon. F. Bridgman, and a number (jf others. 
 In response to an appeal which I drew up— the King, then Prince 
 of Wales, kindly consenting to be patron of the undertaking— we 
 did very well, and the church was built. 
 
 At Gotha I stayed with a German gentleman, a magistrate of 
 Gotha, who told me that he used to play, when a boy, with our 
 Prince Consort, his brother and sisters. Upon this occasion the 
 town lent the Stadt church of Gotha for the confirmation. The 
 church was filled with Germans, who evinced the greatest interest in 
 the service. My host said to me in the evening, speaking in Cierman, 
 for he knew no English : " I have learnt much to-day. I did not 
 know what the English Church was ; but when I saw you at the close 
 of the service lift your right hand in benediction, holding your pastoral 
 staff in the left, then I said, ' Der Englisher Kirche ist Katolisch.' " 
 
 At Carlsruhe I stayed with Baron and Baroness von Boden, she 
 an American, he a German-American in the Baden Government. 
 The Grand Duchess of Baden, who was not here at the time, 
 ordered the pretty little chapel, which she lends us, to be decorated 
 with palms and plants from the palace conservatories, and sent a 
 telegram conveying her good wishes, ending after a lengthy preamble 
 with, "Herzliche Segens wiinsche fiir die confirmation." I tele- 
 graphed back my respectful thanks for Her Royal Highness's kindly 
 message. The daughter of the Governor of Ehrenbreitstein was 
 amongst the guests at the reception after the confirmation. She 
 lives at Kronberg, near the Empress Frederick's Schloss, and told 
 me that the Empress wished me to visit her there, and to show me 
 all she had done by way of new buildings and improvements. I sent 
 my dutiful respects and my hope to do so some day. 
 
 Travelling by the beautiful Black Forest railway I spent a few 
 hours at the falls of the Rhine, which I had not seen for thirty-five 
 years, reaching Zurich in the evening, where I conferred with the 
 chaplain and his committee upon the question of the new church. 
 At a reception afterwards I met a Mr. Hill, who was the only 
 European who escaped from Delhi when besieged during the Mutiny.
 
 2i8 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1894 
 
 He had, in making a road, avoided the king's burial ground, where 
 his ancestors lie. The king was so much touched by the respect 
 thus shown for his dead that he effected his escape. 
 
 From Zurich I went to Neuchatel, meeting at the confirmation 
 dear old Professor Godet, the commentator, a beautiful old man, 
 declining with reverent dignity and Christian grace to the grave. 
 He spoke no EngUsh, only French, at which I was surprised ; but as 
 he said that the service had delighted him, I presumed that he 
 understood it. Several Swiss pastors and others were present who 
 had never seen a confirmation before, and expressed their wish that 
 they had the ordinance in their own Church. This was the first 
 Anglican confirmation ever held in Neuchatel. From Neuchatel I 
 went to Lausanne, where I preached and confirmed, leaving after- 
 wards for England, via Paris, Dieppe, and Newhaven. 
 
 The last visitation this year was of the Swiss chaplaincies, my 
 route lying from Calais through a flooded country, the recent storms 
 and hurricanes having laid thirty miles of country deeply under 
 water. Whole villages submerged to the lower windows of the 
 houses, the floods rushing through the streets like swollen rivers ; 
 boats here and there saving property and lives. A Frenchman told 
 me that it had rained for seventy-five days ! We ran through miles 
 of water, at the risk of extinguishing the engine's fires ; cuttings 
 crumbUng into the flood, and for some distance the Hne was blocked. 
 However, we got through to Paris somehow, though late, and in due 
 course, via Dijon and Pontarlier, to Lausanne. Here, in addition to 
 the uiual church work which awaited me, I spoke on behalf of the 
 Bishopric in the new church room. 
 
 On 2 November I read in a Swiss paper of the Czar's death, 
 with this comment : " II laisse une Empire prospere, absolument 
 homogene, dont I'influence ne pent etre contre balancee que par 
 celle d'Angleterre." 
 
 From Lausanne I went to Territet for another Bishopric meeting. 
 The weather was foggy, which might be expected in November, but 
 here one can get above such lower-world troubles. One day, when 
 we could see nothing by reason of the density of the fog, we 
 telephoned up to Caux and asked how the weather was there. The 
 reply came back, "Brilliant sunshine." Up we went, and enjoyed 
 the day much, the Lake of Geneva being altogether invisible, look- 
 ing as if packed with thick layers of cotton wool. We can't do that 
 in London ; to which foggy city, with no Caux as a refuge, I had now 
 to retrace my steps, closing my travels for the year 1894.
 
 CHAPTER XXII 
 
 Visit to the Duke and Duchess of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha (Duke and Duchess of 
 
 Edinburgh)— The Duke gives the SchUisschen for the English church— State 
 banquet at the castle, Gotha— Climbing the Gothard from the Italian side- 
 Purchase and adaptation of church at Zurich— The last senior officer of the 
 Balaclava charge— Bishop Mackenzie's grave at the Ruo mouth— The greatest 
 humbug in Europe— A thrice-told tale : the battlefield of Waterloo— Stettin 
 — Ninth annual Conference at Boulogne— Consecration of St. John's Church— 
 The Roman camp on the Saalburg. 
 
 THE year 1895 opened for me by an almost solitary crossing to 
 Holland. The terrible collision, which sent the German liner 
 Elbe with nearly all hands and passengers to the bottom of the 
 North Sea, had created such a panic that the public seemed afraid 
 to travel by this route. The traffic via Antwerp, moreover, was 
 stopped altogether in consequence of the amount of ice in the 
 Scheldt, and indeed the Maes was not much better, for that river 
 was full of floe ice, and our progress through it was but slow. The 
 last newspaper posters the evening of my departure (13 February) 
 announced " Sea freezing," and it was scarcely an exaggeration. 
 The Crathie, which ran down the ill-fated E/be, was lying up at 
 Rotterdam. Holland was entirely on skates and sledges, the dykes 
 being highways of passage and commerce; ships frozen in, and cut 
 round to prevent ice-squeeze. At Amsterdam I confirmed, leaving 
 next day for Diisseldorf, where another confirmation. A Dutch 
 gentleman told me that certain bills exist in Antwerp, proving that 
 Rubens only took sixteen days to paint his "Descent frunj the 
 Cross." It seems incredible. If true, it accounts for the acres of 
 pictures attributed to him throughout Europe. 
 
 Upon reaching the high region of Thuringen, on my way to 
 Gotha, this severe winter showed itself in a country buried unusually 
 deep in snow, the streets of Gotha being cut through and baiikcd 
 on either side with snowy walls. At the Sunday service on 1 7 Feb- 
 ruary — followed by a celebration at his own request— the Duke of 
 
 219
 
 220 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [i89S 
 
 Edinburgh (Duke of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha) was present. This 
 was the first time he had attended the English service since his 
 recent accession to Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, having to be careful not 
 to seem too English. After service I went to lunch at the Schloss. 
 The Duke and Duchess welcomed me very cordially, introducing 
 me to their only son, the Hereditary Grand Duke, and their two 
 daughters. On introducing me to his son, the Duke said, "This is 
 my son Ernest, who did not hear the Bishop's sermon." " And why 
 did you not come to church ? " he said, turning to him. He repHed 
 that he did not get up early enough. "Then you ought to have 
 done so," said his father. The Duchess pointed the remark by say- 
 ing that when her English servants came from church they told her 
 that the service had "made them feel better!" During lunch I 
 talked to the Duchess of Edinburgh of Russia. She was glad to find 
 that I knew her country so well. I said that I remembered seeing 
 her when a little girl (1859) landing at Peterhoff, and walking hand 
 in hand between her father and mother, the late Czar and Czarina. 
 She told me that she remembered it well, mentioning the name of 
 the place in the Gulf of Finland from which they had come. The 
 Duke of Edinburgh was very bright and pleasant, full of conversa- 
 tion and stories. He seemed much amused by one told him by the 
 Prince of Wales of a boy who had lately been to a juvenile party at 
 Marlborough House, and when asked at home if the Prince of 
 Wales had spoken to him, said, " Oh yes ! " " Well, what did 
 he say?" The boy hesitated a bit, and then replied, "Why, he 
 stamped on my toe," and then said, " I beg your pardon ! " The 
 Duchess in speaking of the music of the Russian church, told me that 
 the singing at her brother's— the late Czar's — funeral was exquisite. 
 I asked after her nephew, the Grand Duke George, whom I had met 
 at Copenhagen, and who was then very ill at Livadia. She spoke of 
 him as still an invalid and getting no better. In talking of the 
 reviews by the Czar, which I had attended at Petersburg, she said 
 she was present at them with her brother when staying at the 
 Winter Palace. 
 
 After lunch the Duchess and her daughters went down to the ice 
 in the park, and I went with the Duke into his study with Sir Condie 
 Stephen to talk over the chaplaincy and its prospects. I suggested 
 that it should be made a Foreign Office chaplaincy since His Royal 
 Highness was now the reigning Duke. This seemed to commend 
 itself to him, and inquiry at the Foreign Office was to be made by
 
 1895] STATE BANQUET AT (iOTHA aai 
 
 Sir Condie when he went to England. The Duke spoke of the 
 small poor room in which we held our service, and asked if I sliould 
 like a little building in the park for the purjjose, known as ihc 
 " Schlosschen." It stands in the castle grounds, well placed and 
 suited for a chapel and chaplain's residence. The grounds around, 
 forming part of the ducal castle, are of course kept up by the 
 Duke. I thanked him for, and accepted the offer. It has been 
 put in good order, adapted for the English service, and a chaplain's 
 residence. Sir Condie Stephen, with whom I lunched the next day, 
 is much interested in Socialism. He took a sensible, merciful view 
 of the question. He would have the English Government a more 
 strict and paternal one, providing by emigration and other means 
 for the alleviation of distress. His argument is that all are not 
 clever and strong, or able through mental or physical causes to 
 survive the struggle. Some must go to the wall without any fault 
 of their own. These should be cared for judiciously, and placed 
 where they may have a chance. I told him I wished he was in 
 Parliament to urge those views on the country. 
 
 In the evening the Duke and Duchess gave their first State 
 banquet upon entering into possession of the Duchy. All the 
 ofificials and grandees of this part of the Duchy were present, 
 numbering about two hundred. The old castle, which is an 
 enormous building, was all ablaze, the staircase, landings, and 
 corridors being lined with servants in royal liveries, holding pikes 
 in their hands. We assembled in the large tapestried drawing-room, 
 and dined in the great banqueting hall. I sat on the left of the 
 Grand Duchess, the Hereditary Prince Ernest on her right, the 
 Duke of Edinburgh and his eldest unmarried daughter Princess 
 Beatrice sitting opposite. All was right royally done. No Court 
 in Europe could have done it better. As we sat down the band 
 played "Home, Sweet Home," "Rule Britannia," and then the 
 programme as arranged. The Duke's English arms, annexed to the 
 ducal arms of Coburg and Gotha, were to be seen everywhere, 
 upon and amongst the plate and other ornamentations of the tables. 
 The Duchess talked about Russia more than of any other subject. 
 We discussed Siberia and Siberian prisons, and all the exaggerations 
 that had been published upon them, the question also of the Jews 
 being turned out of Russia. In referring to the then recent 
 Mansion House meeting upon the subject, I expressed my opmion 
 that it was ill-judged, and that the English public took their idea of
 
 222 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL 11895 
 
 Jews from those in England, whereas they are two totally different 
 classes of people. She said that was quite true, and the root of 
 the misunderstanding, adding, "your English Jews are respectable, 
 often found in high and responsible positions ; ours are the lowest 
 section of the people." We talked also of Fredensborg and its 
 autumn gatherings ; of the Lamsdorfs' palace at Kouskova, near 
 Moscow, which she knows ; and also of Sigmaringen, where her 
 daughter had been lately married to the Crown Prince of Roumania. 
 She spoke of it as beautifully situated over a rocky gorge of the 
 Danube, from the heights above which the Swiss mountains can be 
 seen. The Duke explained the various German coats-of-arms 
 round the cornice of the hall representing the towns in his duchies, 
 adding that the Schloss was built after the Thirty Years' War to 
 employ the soldiers when they were paid off. He also spoke with 
 much interest of, and warmly commended, the " Anglo-Russian 
 Literary Society " for extending knowledge of Russia, the Russians, 
 their country, and their literature. The Duke was dressed in the 
 light blue uniform of the Saxe-Coburg and Gotha regiments, wear- 
 ing all his decorations. He looked exceedingly well, and was in 
 excellent spirits. Handsome young Prince Ratibor, the Duke's 
 Oberhofmarschal, was busy all the evening making presentations to 
 the Duke. He was full of fun, and told me that he enjoyed, after 
 having made the presentations to the Duke — who stood to receive 
 them in the middle of the drawing-room — to fall back and watch 
 the varied ways in which those presented went through the ordeal. 
 Prince Ratibor was a great favourite with the Duke, so bright 
 and cheery and full of humour ; the Hereditary Prince pleasant 
 and chatty. He told me much of his travels and asked me about 
 mine. In little more than five years all three — the Duke, 
 his son, and young Prince Ratibor — had passed away. During 
 the evening the Duke asked me to go with him into another 
 room, where he explained to me at length all that he wished 
 to do at the " Schlosschen am Park " to make it a suitable 
 English chapel and chaplain's residence. After conferring together 
 as to arrangements of things, etc., he said, " Well, I must go 
 back and do some talking to other people." I think he was glad 
 to get away for a while and be quiet. Before leaving, the Duke 
 asked me to come to the castle next morning and see the electric 
 lighting and other things he was doing by way of improvements. 
 He said he had also made arrangements by which my son, whom I
 
 1895] SEVERE WINTER IN TYROL 223 
 
 had brought with me to Gotha to learn electricity, should have ihc 
 entree to the Government work. Nothing could have been kinder 
 than were both Duke and Duciiess through this pleasant visit, going 
 out of their way to be gracious and friendly to their English guest. 
 
 From Gotha I travelled via Coburg to Munich for a confirmation, 
 and stayed with Mr. (now Sir Victor) Drummond at the British 
 Legation. Mr. Drummond told me that when the Emperor Frederick 
 passed through Munich on his way from San Remo to Berlin, he 
 went to the station to greet him. The Empress said, " The Emperor 
 cannot receive you in the carriage, but wants to speak to you." He 
 told me it was a very sad sight, so terribly altered and shattered 
 that it moved him to tears. 
 
 This was a most severe winter. In travelling from Munich to 
 Meran in the Tyrol, the carriage wheels, axles, and footboards were, 
 as in Russia, clogged with ice and frozen snow, which had to be 
 hacked off with axes and hammers. Innsbriick was buried in snow, 
 and all waterfalls on the Brenner Pass frozen into endless fantastic 
 forms, the snow about the summit of the Pass reaching nearly the 
 level of the carriage windows. At Meran I preached and confirmed. 
 The old part of Meran is arcaded like Berne. Some of the houses 
 in this quarter are one -sixth of a mile deep, and divided like 
 Yarmouth rows, with queer roofs, groined windows, arches, etc. 
 All this, no doubt, like Chester, for defence, the only difference 
 being that the robbers came to rob Chester, Meran, and Berne from 
 the hills, Yarmouth, as pirates, from the sea. 
 
 From Meran I travelled through Italy via Verona, Milan, and 
 the Gothard Railway to Ziirich, through the district of the Franco- 
 Austrian War of 1859. I was all through it in i860, and saw the 
 wrecked remains of towns and villages, now, with the exception of 
 war monuments and many graves of the fallen, bearing few traces 
 of that great struggle for Italian freedom and P'rench aggrandizement. 
 As we left Milan in the early sunny morning, Monte Rosa in the 
 far north-west was doing justice to her name, catching the rising 
 sun in the east, and reflecting it in one huge, rosy glory of colour. 
 Except Como, which smiled as if spring was nigh at hand, the 
 Italian lakes looked very wintry, their waters black as ink, and their 
 encircling mountains covered with snow to the very waters edge. 
 I heard upon this journey the meaning of our apparently meaning- 
 less exclamation, "Dear me!" A yawning Italian opposite me 
 said, " Ah, Dio mio ! " from which we undoubtedly got our strange,
 
 224 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1895 
 
 pointless version. Turning aside at Bellinzona, I slept at Locarno, 
 wandering up to the church of the Madonna del Casa, which 
 contains the well-known picture of the carrying of the Saviour to 
 his burial. I dare say the view is fine from this point in summer, 
 but all was then wrapped in snow, and was infinitely cold, dark, and 
 dismal. And yet it is said to be the warmest and most sheltered 
 spot in Italy — not that winter. 
 
 The Gothard Railway was only recently opened after an unusually 
 hea\7 snowfall that blocked the line and stopped all traffic. It is 
 a wonderful cUnib to the tunnel, different in detail from that on the 
 Swiss side, but equally marvellous as a triumph of engineering. 
 The staircase employed is the Ticino. The roadway having taken 
 the best points to achieve the mighty climb, the railway has had to 
 go as it could, shift for itself, and resort to endless tunnelling. 
 What would railway engineers do, especially in such work as this, 
 without these everlasting diggers of Nature, the rivers? Silent, 
 toolless, wageless, ever working, never resting day or night, they 
 have hewn the rocks, cloven the mountains, and prepared a way by 
 water for a way by iron. At Faido the gasping engine rests and 
 refreshes for forty minutes, and then plunges again for some twenty 
 minutes from Airolo into the entrails of the Gothard range to 
 Goschenen. At one point ■ in a narrow gorge (the road having 
 occupied the only possible foothold) the railway has to make a 
 corkscrew, coming over itself at right angles, where a short, sharp 
 incline would have carried the position. Over the little station of 
 Airolo towers the snowy summit of the Gothard, separating Italy 
 from Switzerland, and our schiijfner put on his big sheepskin coat, 
 for colder Switzerland lies only ten miles off — through the great 
 tunnel — at Goschenen. Down to Fluellen the brakes have a hot 
 time of it. The rush is all too short through the wondrous scenery, 
 and all too soon we were at Zurich. The Swiss lakes were all 
 frozen, and that of Ziirich a world of happy, busy, fur-warmed 
 skaters. I had now traversed three thousand miles of brilliant, 
 dazzling snow-fields, and my eyes were getting tired of the constant 
 glare. My good chaplain at Zurich, Mr. Tindal-Atkinson, cheered 
 me up upon my arrival with a good story. An American, travelling 
 through France and Germany to Switzerland, was unable to speak 
 either language. Some one remarked that it must be very awkward 
 for him. " Oh," he replied, "it is, rather; but it won't matter when 
 I get to Switzerland. Guess I can speak Swiss right enough ! "
 
 1895] A REMARKABLE JOURNEY 225 
 
 Across the bridge where the Li m mat flows out of the lake there 
 were hundreds of black ducks with white sides— probably jjochards. 
 Swiss streets are always cleared of snow at 5 a.m. to allow children 
 to get to school ; a very sensible and merciful act. Why does not 
 sleepy, lazy, unhappy -go -lucky, dirty old London do the same? 
 We never have such a snowfall as I opened my eyes upon the 
 morning after my arrival, but by school-time the irotloirs were all 
 clear. 
 
 From Zurich I went to Berne. Not a cab or vehicle of any kind 
 at the station. Nothing would turn out in such weather. So with 
 help I had to carry my bags over the Aar bridge to the house where 
 I was to stay in the Kirchenfeld on the Thun Road. I ran down 
 to Thun one day from Berne and found it completely snowed up. 
 Judging from appearances, all the inhabitants, save a few enter- 
 prising boys who were tobogganing down the deserted streets, in 
 bed and asleep. As the boys did not invite me to join their sport, I 
 returned to Berne by the next train. 
 
 Mr. St. John, our Charge d'Affaires at Berne, an interesting, 
 delightful man who has travelled far and seen much, told of it all 
 in a most charmingly quiet and unselfconscious way. He has 
 lately written his interesting reminiscences. His most remark- 
 able journey was from Pekin to England by land, long before the 
 trans-Siberian Railway was dreamed of — a wonderful feat for that 
 day. It took him six weeks to reach the Siberian frontier, thence 
 by sledge, with a young Russian officer carrying dispatches through 
 Siberia to Nishni-Novgorod. They were eighteen days and nights 
 in a sledge, travelling as hard as relays of three horses could lay 
 their legs to the ground — and Russian horses can lay them to the 
 ground. I remember Mr. J. Hubbard, of Petersburg, accustomed 
 to Russian sledge travelling, telling me that upon a journey of only 
 three or four days over the Ural Mountains he had to tie up his jaw 
 tight to prevent his teeth being broken by the shocks over what are 
 called roads ! I was not surprised when Mr. St. John told me that 
 he did not sleep for six months afterwards, and had never been 
 altogether the same man since. The young Russian officer became 
 delirious at the end of the first week, which terribly aggravated the 
 difficulties and hardships of the journey. 
 
 After a reception I endeavoured to walk out upon the Thun 
 Road, where I found Mr. St. John in almost as great a plight as in 
 his journey from Pekin to London. He had got into a deep snow- 
 Q
 
 226 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1S95 
 
 drift returning from the reception to his house, and would have pro- 
 bably remained there till a thaw set in had I not come along and 
 delivered him out of his distress. North and Central Europe was 
 almost impossible to be travelled over that winter except by a polar 
 bear ! However, I had a few more places to visit, and went forward 
 for work to Lausanne and Geneva. Hither came terrible tales of the 
 snowstorms and their perils. An hotel somewhere up in the Jura 
 was reported as buried fifteen feet deep. From many farm-houses 
 tunnels had to be made to cow-houses, stables, and outbuildings to 
 feed the cattle. Whole chalets were completely buried. In one, a 
 man and his wife were found dead ; their little child was alive under 
 a table, warmed by a big dog which had curled itself round its 
 young friend. 
 
 A London banker, whom I met in Geneva, told me of the clever 
 capture of a swindler. Two men of the same name banked with a 
 certain firm. One of them, being in difficulties, called for his pass- 
 book, and by accident was handed that of the other man of the 
 same name. He took it away, saw that there was a balance of 
 ;;^3ooo to credit, and finding paid cheques in the pocket copied the 
 signature and presented a cheque for ;^3ooo to a large business 
 house in the city. The manager said, " You must go with me to 
 your banker with this." The cashier looked at the man, saw light 
 between his whiskers and his face, said that he couldn't pay the 
 cheque that day, but that he must return on Monday. Meanwhile 
 the owner of the cheque-book was communicated with, from whom 
 it was learnt that he had not drawn the cheque in question. On 
 the Monday morning the man returned, asking blusteringly why 
 the difficulty about the cheque had been made. " Oh," said the 
 cashier, '• there is no difficulty about it, if you will just step into 
 the private room you will be attended to there at once." As 
 soon as he had passed in the door was locked, a policeman 
 " attended " to him without delay, and he was sentenced to a long 
 imprisonment. 
 
 At the reception in Geneva I met Colonel Lowe, of the 4th Light 
 Dragoons, one of the very few survivors of the Balaclava charge. 
 He told me that he landed with the army on 15 September, 1854 
 In revisiting lately the scenes of the campaign he found the very 
 place where his tent had stood so many years previously, with the 
 trench round it perfectly clear. The graveyard of our soldiers was 
 enclosed, but the entrance gate and wooden crosses were gone.
 
 i89S] THE GREATEST HUMBUC; IN EUROI'I-: ,,7 
 
 taken for firewood probably, which is scarce thereabouts. There is 
 no wanton disrespect shown or damage done, but shepherds let 
 their sheep stray in, and they rub a-ainst the tombstones and dis- 
 place them. He described the charge to me wilii very interesting 
 details. He was eighty-three, and the senior officer left of the many 
 who were engaged that day. 
 
 A gentleman was also present at the reception wiio iiad been at 
 the then recent Durbar at Delhi. His description was most graphic. 
 Two hundred elephants clad in cloth of gold, richly caparisoned, 
 and bejewelled upon their foreheads, passed with their riders, salut- 
 ing the Viceroy by lifting their trunks into the air. Two page-boys, 
 one a native in native dress, the other English in the dress of a 
 page in Charles I's time, held the Viceroy's train. The Ameer of 
 Afghanistan, after seeing the Black Watch, was so struck with the 
 dress that he put a detachment of his soldiers into something of the 
 same kind ! 
 
 I tried to drive to the suburbs of Geneva but found them impass- 
 able, the walls of snow so high and interspace so narrow that a 
 carriage could not turn in them. The new P^orce Motrice at 
 Geneva is most interesting. The rush of the Rhone as it bursts 
 from the lake is used to turn some twelve enormous turbines for 
 creating electricity. A gigantic hall has been built for these 
 turbines, and large sluices below re ulate the amount of water. 
 Huge horizontal wheels in the water itself— stepped like water-wheels 
 — turn the great shafts which communicate with the machinery above. 
 But the beautiful rush of water from the lake which Ruskin used to 
 call " The river of the water of Life " is no more. 
 
 Returning from Switzerland by Paris I confirmed there, going on 
 to Rouen, where I was the guest of our Consul, Mr, O'Neil. He 
 was Consul at Mozambique. He and his wife had seen much, 
 have been up the Zambesi to Blantyre, Livingstone, etc., visiting 
 Bishop Mackenzie's grave at the Ruo mouth. The cross still stands 
 over it, which I saw at Havant, before it was sent out by Miss 
 Mackenzie ; but the spot is much overgrown with vegetation. 
 
 At Rouen I confirmed, candidates coming in from the English 
 factory at Malauney. The old sacristan of St. Ouen, whom all 
 the travelling world remembers as the greatest humbug in Europe, 
 talked of Ruskin as his intimate friend. He pointed out a spot in 
 a side chapel, to which the Professor instructed him to take all 
 visitors, as that from which the finest view is obtained. He asked
 
 228 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1895 
 
 after Precentor Venables, of Lincoln. When I told him that he 
 had died ten days before, he broke out into expressions of grief so 
 intense that, had I not known the man, I should have feared for its 
 effect upon his mind. Writhing from side to side like a wounded 
 snake, his whole body convulsed and distorted with apparent 
 anguish, he exclaimed, " Oh, mon ami ! Oh, mon cher ami ! 
 
 Venable, Venable, mon pauvre ami. Ah ! quelle tristesse ! Oh ! 
 comme c'est miserable ! Oh ! mon ami, mon cher ami, est-il 
 possible ? " David hardly expressed himself more piteously for the 
 loss of Absalom. I told him that Canon Venables was a friend of 
 mine, and was a great student of, and authority upon, architecture. 
 This only developed another outburst of anguish so poignant that 
 fearing the old man would fall in a fit upon the cathedral floor, 
 
 1 paid him his fee and hurried out, taking the train for Dieppe, en 
 route for England. 
 
 On 18 May I crossed to Ostend, and visited Bruges, where I 
 preached and confirmed, going on to Lille for the same purpose. 
 At Lille are pictures worth seeing. Good Van Goyens and Vandycks, 
 and a very fine Tilburg. The new building in which they are now 
 housed is worthy of them. Thence to Brussels for work, taking the 
 opportunity of visiting the battlefield of Waterloo. 
 
 To tell the more than thrice-told tale will be tedious to some ; these 
 may omit what follows ; othe s who have not seen it may care to 
 read yet another description of what has been so often described, my 
 apology for adding another must be that I am interested in battle- 
 fields. Braine I'Alleurd, the best point from which to start, and 
 now a railway station, was the extreme right of Wellington's army. 
 From here I walked to Hougomont — situated on the road to 
 Nivelle — a picturesque old farm-house in a courtyard, known by name 
 and pictures to all the world. This was never taken from us during 
 the battle. In the courtyard is a little chapel, burnt in the fighting, 
 except the chancel. The orchard surrounded on three sides by 
 walls, which were loopholed hastily for defence, and so remain 
 as on the day of the battle. This orchard was taken and retaken. 
 Patched portions of the farmstead walls show how hotly contested 
 this portion of the field was. Thence by a footpath towards the 
 rear of " La Belle Alliance," whence from a hollow near by — behind 
 the little group of buildings — Napoleon sent his guards to their last 
 attack, as represented in the Academy picture of 1894. From this 
 hollow I turned down a lane in the direction of Planchemont, and
 
 i89S] THE BATTLEFIELD OF WATERLOO 229 
 
 made my way to " La Belle Alliance," a small aubcrgc — now evi- 
 dently just what it was then — and sketched the back (jf it with its old 
 well. It stands upon the great high road from Brussels to Chark-roi, 
 and bears upon its front this inscription : " Rencontre des gencraux 
 Wellington et Blucher, lors de la memorable bataille du xviii Juin, 
 18 1 5, se saluant mutuellement vainqueurs." Thence by high road 
 to La Haie Sainte, the extreme left of Wellington's line, which is a 
 pretty farm-house with good buildings about it. Beyond and still 
 upon the same high road towards Brussels stands, above a sandy 
 cutting of the road, the Hanover Legion Monument and that called 
 the Gordon Monument. I would have transcribed their inscription 
 had not a heavy thunderstorm driven me to the Lion mound. To erect 
 this foolish piece of ugliness much soil had to be taken from the 
 ridge, irreparably injuring the configuration of this part of the field. 
 The solitary tree to the left under which Wellington stood during the 
 battle is gone, but the hollow behind (sheltering the village of St. 
 Jean), from which he called up his guards, is in no way defaced. 
 Between this position and that occupied by Napoleon, a depression 
 in the down-like throw of the land — scarcely a valley — was the 
 scene of the last severe struggle. Here stood the English scjuares, 
 against which the soldiers of France broke, and were hurled back 
 like waves upon a rocky coast. The French called it the Battle of 
 St. Jean ; we, Waterloo, which is far behind St. Jean ; Wellington 
 writing his dispatches from Waterloo after the battle and sleeping 
 there gave its name to the memorable day. 
 
 From Brussels I travelled to Berlin, confirming at Koln on the 
 way. At Berlin I preached and confirmed and did other work. 
 The new Parliament House was then just finished. It is fine, but the 
 dome too low and squat. The Column of Victory stands near, the 
 bronzes upon the four sides all life-size. The first is the Danish cam- 
 paign, illustrated by the charging of the German troops up the grassy 
 slopes of the fortress of Diippel. The second, the Austrian campaign, 
 illustrated by the Battle of Koenigsgratz, in which the Emperor 
 Frederick— the Crown Prince— is the principal figure. The third, 
 the start for the Franco-German War. The fourth, the entry into 
 Paris in 187 1, the French standing on either side of the victorious 
 German troops as they march down the Champs laysccs, looking 
 daggers at their victorious foe. The old Kaiser and Crown I'rmce 
 ride side by side, Moltke and Bismarck immediately behind, 
 followed by the staff and regiments. Above the pediment, which
 
 230 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1895 
 
 carries these bronzes on its four sides, is a circular colonnade sur- 
 mounted by a graceful fluted column upon which stands with out- 
 stretched wings, and blowing a trumpet, the gilded angel of Victory. 
 Taken altogether, this is one of the most perfectly proportioned and 
 designed works of art in Europe. 
 
 Upon this occasion I had much talk with Sir Edward Malet upon 
 this important chaplaincy ; I strongly advised a new appointment. 
 This was duly effected. I called at the Emperor's palace, and 
 also at the Empress Frederick's ; after which I went to the old 
 and new picture galleries, renewed my acquaintance with some, and 
 saw others recently added. An enormous canvas representing the 
 old Kaiser William and Crown Prince Frederick entering Berlin 
 under the Brandenburger Thor, on their return from the war, is a 
 very fine piece of painting, but I would rather that the attending 
 angels and cherubs had been left in their own regions of the 
 triumphant hosts above. They are out of place upon the battlefields 
 and scenes of this lower earth. 
 
 From Berlin I went to Stettin, where I met Mr. Moore, of Dres- 
 den, in order to inspect the new Sailors' Institute and chapel which 
 he has been the means of setting on foot in that busy seaport. 
 Stettin is the capital of Pomerania, and is a fine city, with grand old 
 gateways — such as those at Llibeck — which formed part of the old 
 ramparts. These were spared when the fortifications were removed, 
 and stand here and there about the city without much apparent 
 continuity of architecture. The old Kaiser caused them to be left, 
 and they add greatly to the interest of the place. Stettin possesses a 
 fine old church of red brick, with a lofty spire and fine arcading 
 upon the tower. This is one of those interesting old brick churches, 
 such as one must go specially to Schleswig-Holstein, Mechlenburg- 
 Schwerin, and Pomerania to see, and they are alone worth the 
 journey along that interesting Baltic coast. The oak roof in this 
 Stettin church is said to contain enough timber to build several 
 men-of-war. From Stettin I travelled to Dresden, where I found 
 awaiting me plenty of work — ecclesiastical and social. From Dres- 
 den I passed through Thuringen, confirming the churches. 
 
 When at Gotha I went out to Fredrichsroda, Georgenthal, and 
 Rheinhartsbrun situated amongst the Thuringen Hills. The little 
 Gothic chateau at the latter place — at one time the home of our Prince 
 Consort, and to which one summer he took our Queen — is a quiet, 
 restful little place, the only noise which broke the silence being the
 
 I895J A CITY OF FLAGS j;,, 
 
 frogs in the reedy, water-lilied lake. Long whilu I sal Ijy its waters, 
 enjoying the frogs, the quiet and the cool, and only sorry when the 
 time came for returning to Gotha, en route for hot, crowded, dusty 
 Frankfurt, and the work awaiting me there. Here I confirmed the 
 candidates of Frankfiirt, and others from Bonn, Homhurg, Wies- 
 baden, and Heidelberg College; after which I conferred with our 
 British Consul, Sir C. Oppenheimer, about the church it was proposed 
 to build. The Empress Frederick telegraphed to inquire the hour 
 of the confirmation. I understood she wanted to see me about 
 something. However, she did not come : the ICmperor being 
 expected from Berlin no doubt detaining her. 
 
 From Frankfurt I went to Stuttgart and Freiburg for my usual 
 work in those chaplaincies, returning direct to Boulogne, where I 
 was the guest of Lady Charlemont during the conference. On 
 1 8 June I consecrated the very comely little church of St. John, of 
 which I laid the stone. The Sous-Prefet and Deputy-Mayor of 
 Boulogne were present with other local French. 
 
 The Conference was largely attended and very successful. At its 
 close I returned to England. 
 
 A journey to Germany concluded the year 1S95. Leaving 
 England via Antwerp, on 29 August, I travelled through to Hom- 
 burg. I found Frankfurt a city of flags, garlands, and endless 
 decorations, being the eve of the anniversary of Sedan. Shops were 
 full of pictures of the war, and crowds were looking at them, as if 
 the battles were current events. The historic Schwan Hotel in which 
 Bismarck signed the peace — as recorded in an inscription upon its 
 front — was one closely packed mass of galore from pavement to 
 chimney-pots. At Homburg I preached on the Sunday for the 
 Bishopric Fund, to a very full congregation, being the height of the 
 season. In the afternoon the Prince of Wales and Empress 
 Frederick were present. The Prince was here drinking the waters, 
 and always came early and regularly to the Brunnen. His glass was 
 handed to him upon a silver salver, the only difference in the water- 
 drinking order of things, as observed by the drinking crowds. 
 During my stay at Homburg I drove up to the Saalburg to see the 
 Roman camp— the most perfectly preserved, extensive, and mterest- 
 ing of all the Roman remains I ever saw. It stands upon a pass of 
 the Taunus range of hills, and formed a vast military centre upon 
 the line of defence which the Romans built from the Rhine to the 
 Danube. This pfahl-i^rahen, or stockaded trench, as the word
 
 232 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1S95 
 
 indicates (from the first part of which we get our word " pahng "), 
 is three hundred miles in length, consisting of a vallum and inter- 
 vallum, which was defended by the stockade or paling. This 
 section extended from the Siebengebirge by Bonn to the Maine. 
 Its date is a.d. 9, and was probably constructed by Drusus, and 
 reconstructed by Germanicus. The camp is oblong, nearly one and 
 a quarter mile in length, furnished with four gates, one at each side- 
 The foundations of villas, store-houses, barrack-rooms, baths, etc., 
 have been laid open, as well as a very distinctly marked praitorium. 
 The camp now stands in a thick forest, but must when constructed — 
 for Romans were too canny to build amongst trees — have stood upon 
 a bare down with an extensive view, westwards to the Rhine, and 
 towards the Thuringian forest eastwards. The Roman road which 
 passes through the centre of the camp by the Decumanian Gate 
 probably ran straight to the next great Roman fortress — which would 
 be Cassel — on the way to Detmold on the Lippe, near which, in the 
 Teutoburgian Forest, the legions of Varus were destroyed. The baths, 
 built by Caracalla, the great bath-making Roman Emperor, are very 
 large. In fact, the whole camp is on so vast and elaborate a scale 
 that one learns from it in what formidable estimation the AUemanni 
 were held by the Romans. Four wells still exist, from one of which 
 water can readily be drawn. The latrines, with their scouring 
 water-channels of stone, are perfect. Scattered all down the eastern 
 slope of the hill on either side of the road are detached buildings. 
 Not far from the road, and to its left upon leaving the camp, east- 
 ward stood the cemetery, or rather crematorium, the largest known, 
 consisting of thousands of places of interment. Here ash-urns are 
 still found in numbers, and a little chapel has been provided for 
 them, and dedicated. This camp was called "Artaunum": "Ars," 
 the " camp "; " Taunum," of the " Taunus." We have nothing like 
 this in England. The nearest to it probably existed at York and 
 Gloucester, but there, modern cities have grown up over them and 
 destroyed their traces. Here, a wild hillside, probably bare as 
 Sussex Downs in a.d. 9, reveals at each spadeful of earth the 
 great military station as it stood 1800 years ago. From Homburg 
 I went to Wiesbaden for work. The view from the Duke of 
 Nassau's hunting chateau high up over the Taunus Hills, and 
 looking far away over the Rhine towards the hills of Lorraine, is 
 very vast. 
 
 I could not resist running up the Niederwald from Rudesheim to
 
 '^95] THE GERMANIA 233 
 
 sec the Germaiiia once more. That grand record of a great nation's 
 triumph is always interesting, accentuated just then by the anniver- 
 sary of Sedan. An old fellow sat amongst the refrcshers-of whom 
 there are always a good company at all seasons— and sang jjatriotic 
 songs, accompanying himself on a zither. 
 And so back again to England.
 
 CHAPTER XXIII 
 t 
 
 The little rivulet in the sandy waste — Warsaw sullen, resentful, and dismal as 
 ever — Cossacks from afar, dirty, wayworn — Polish stories of Russian 
 oppression — The Beresina — The grave of Napoleon's retreating troops — Pre- 
 parations for coronation in Moscow — The Russian loan to China, and where 
 the money went — Dean Stanley's description of Moscow — " O good, kind 
 sirs, of your dearness, do give this wretched little boy one small kopek" — 
 Tragic end to a Russian dinner party in the days of Peter the Great — Visit 
 to the great Peresilni (exiling) prison at Moscow — Eighty-five women who 
 had murdered their husbands — Prisoners' chains, how they are fastened — The 
 Bishop's thanks for the Governor's kindness — A week of ecclesiastical 
 functions at Petersburg in company with Russian archbishops and bishops — 
 A visit to the Archbishop of Petersburg — Presentation of an ikon — A silent 
 prayer at Alexander Nevski's tomb — Visit to M. Pobiedonostzeft" — "Voila, la 
 peste de civilisation " — Father John of Cronstadt — Extraordinary scenes in 
 connexion with him — eh iroWa. Itt] Biffirora — Father John's book, My Life 
 in Christ — Confirmation of 130 candidates — Dean of St. Isaac present — 
 Great service at St. Isaac's Cathedral commemorating the freeing of the serfs 
 in 1861 — Father John of Cronstadt presents portrait of himself — A brave 
 young Anglo-Saxon — Remarkable demonstration at the Baltic railway station 
 at Petersburg — Another demonstration at Riga — The Anglican Bishop blesses 
 the opening of a new factory — Bear's-paw soup — Visit to Sir Frank and 
 Lady Lascelles at Berlin — Audience with the Empress Frederick — Mozart's 
 violin. 
 
 THE year of 1896 was a year of much interesting travel. It 
 began on 14 February, when I crossed to Holland, and found 
 the Dutch much exasperated against us in consequence of the raid 
 of Dr. Jameson into the Transvaal. A policeman was stationed at 
 the English church in case this outburst of feeling should be vented 
 upon our church property. I was, therefore, not sorry to escape 
 from the justly irate Hollanders and to get across the frontier to 
 Hanover, where I confirmed on my way to Poland. 
 
 Crossing the little rivulet in the sandy waste beyond Otlotschin — 
 the last station in East Prussia — we passed slowly over the frontier 
 into Alexandrowo, in Russian Poland What a deal of difference 
 those few sandy yards make ! Now all is absolutely changed — 
 
 234
 
 1896] WARSAW SULLEN ANr3 DISMAL 235 
 
 language on notices and in human mouths, waymarks of all kinds, 
 carriages, trucks, posts, rails, gates, railway plant of every kind, 
 stations, human beings, dresses, faces, characters— all absolutely 
 different, no longer German, as through the thousand miles I had 
 travelled from Bentheim on the Dutch frontier. We were more- 
 over — and this is ^he greatest change of all — within the dominions 
 of the Czar of all the Russias, and no longer free to come and go 
 and do as we please. So says, by silent action, the official in 
 uniform who, with sabre at his side, gets up on the footboard, as the 
 train slowly crosses the charmed line, to see that no one slips out 
 unobserved upon Russian soil and escapes the vigilance of those in 
 charge of His Majesty the Emperor of all the Russia's frontiers. 
 
 I found Warsaw suspicious, sullen, resentful, dismally dreary as 
 ever. My kind and hospitable friends who received me there, 
 friendly and pleasant as ever. The most interesting objects at 
 Warsaw are the varieties of troops in this great military stronghold. 
 As I went out the morning after my arrival I came upon a regiment 
 of Cossacks from afar — dusty, dirty, wayworn. At their saddles 
 were fixed their pennoned lances ; at their backs big knapsacks, 
 hung round with pots and pans enough to furnish a small kitchen. 
 Then in the barrack-yards beneath the great fortress on the Vistula, 
 all ice and snowbound, were Circassian troops exercising in their 
 quaintly handsome uniforms — the picked troops of the Empire. 
 Then the Jews. Out of a population of half a million, one hundred 
 thousand are Jews ; and these are a " peculiar people," as were, in 
 another sense, their forefathers. By a recent ukase they were 
 ordered to shave off their long curls ; but since they preferred not 
 to do so, Russian officials might be seen going about the streets 
 with huge scissors — like the man in the Streuwelpeter— snip, snip- 
 ping, as they went, every unshorn Jew upon whom they came. 
 
 The palace of Poniatowski, the last King of Poland, is situated 
 at the end of the Aleyaujazdowski— a word that one cannot master 
 in a hurry ; it requires taking to pieces. It is a rather pretty little 
 building on a lake in a small park. In the grounds is an open-air 
 theatre for summer use, furnished with stone seats like a semi- 
 coliseum. This Poniatowski was drowned at the battle of Leipzig 
 in the little River Pless, which flows through that city, of which 
 any one may read the record if he knows where to find the monu- 
 ment by the riverside in that city. 
 
 A PoUsh lady, with whom I stayed, wlio has lived all her life m
 
 236 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1896 
 
 Warsaw, told me some thrillingly interesting stories of nihilists and 
 Siberia. After the Polish insurrection of 1862 thousands of Poles 
 were sent to Siberia, hundreds being from Warsaw. One, a 
 Lithuanian lady, upon her return after eight years' exile, came to live 
 in Warsaw, the exiles not being allowed after their return to settle in 
 the part of Poland from whence they were banished. She had a 
 son whom she sent to the Warsaw University. Full of his mother's 
 wrongs, he got in with a revolutionary set at the university, and with 
 a number of other students was sent to Siberia. While he lay in 
 prison awaiting his journey, his mother was in the habit of sending 
 letters to him in baked bread and cakes. These she made herself. 
 He, in reply, sent letters to her upon very thin paper, which he 
 inserted between the outer and inner covers of books by opening 
 and repasting the covers. My Polish friend and her sister, knowing 
 him and his mother intimately, went to see him off when the convoy 
 of prisoners left Warsaw for Siberia. Wishing to have a portrait 
 of himself, he asked leave to be photographed; this was allowed, 
 and he was taken in his convict's dress. He wrote many letters 
 from Siberia to the sister, all of which she kept in a little cld- 
 fashioned chest of drawers. The house next to theirs was let to a 
 Russian officer. In the course of conversation one day they were 
 talking with this officer about nihilists and revolutionists, saying 
 that there was a wide difference between the two, injudiciously 
 adding that they knew a revolutionist and liked him very much, 
 meaning the young fellow who had been exiled. This conversation 
 must have been reported by the Russian officer to the authorities, 
 for one evening shortly after their servant came rushing in, pale and 
 in an agony of terror, saying that the hall was full of police, who 
 were demanding to search the house. The family, of course, could 
 not resist, and the search began. The sister was ill at the time, 
 and taking my friend for the one implicated, they questioned her as 
 to whether she knew certain persons. She knew none of them. 
 Then they proceeded to search the house from top to bottom, going 
 down even into the cellars. They then came into her room and 
 went straight to her writing-table, which had a desk and drawers. 
 These they opened and searched, reading every letter. They 
 contained nothing likely to implicate her, but knowing that the 
 letters received from the young exile by her sister were all in the 
 Httle chest of drawers which stood next to the writing-table, she 
 leaned back upon it, conversing with the police as they searched the
 
 1896] RUSSIAN OPl^RESSION 237 
 
 desk and writing-table drawers. Having found nothing suspicious, 
 they went into the next room. Feeling faint, she asked permission 
 to visit the lavatory. Yes, for a few minutes, though it was against 
 their orders. She then slipped back to the drawers, took out ihc 
 bundle of letters from Siberia, and terrified lest she should be 
 discerned and stopped, walked (juickly with them into the lavatory. 
 A gas-light was burning, and there she destroyed them all. As she 
 passed their Italian governess on her way to the lavatory, she said 
 to her in Italian, " Take this album and get out the portrait." She 
 did so putting it into her pocket. The police upon concluding 
 their search left the house. Had the Siberian letters been dis- 
 covered, it is not improbable that her sister would have followed 
 their young friend into exile. My hostess was highly agitated as she 
 related the story, and said that she could never recall that time 
 without feeling upset. 
 
 Another lady and gentleman of good family during the I'olish 
 insurrection of 1862 were sent to Siberia, their property, which was 
 a fine one near Warsaw, being confiscated. She had a valuable set 
 of diamonds. These an old and faithful servant buried within the 
 park, and upon their return from Siberia at the end of seven years — 
 poor and outcast, and entirely without means of existence — restored 
 to them. The diamonds were sent to Paris and sold, and the pro- 
 ceeds provided them with just enough to live upon. 
 
 I gave my good friend's family a short service on the Sunday 
 (Warsaw being without a chaplain), which they, and a few of our own 
 country people gathered together, seemed to much appreciate. 
 
 The Siberian Railway was to be opened to Krasnoyarsk in the 
 following May. From the European-Asiatic border to Vladivostock 
 is 8000 versts, i.e. 5900 miles. The Russian Government was at 
 that time doing its best to get leave from China to run this railway 
 through Manchuria. With what result we now know to Russia's 
 cost. 
 
 Upon one of my visits to Warsaw I nearly fell under the police 
 severities myself. I had been dining with the Consul-General, and 
 upon returning with my host to his house, the police made their way 
 into my bedroom, and informed me that my passport was not in 
 order, and that I could not leave Warsaw, as I had intended, the 
 next morning; they took down every particular concerning me, 
 a detailed description of my appearance, my parentage, and even the 
 village in Suffolk in which I was bom. I do not suppose that the
 
 238 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1896 
 
 Governor of Warsaw himself — at that time Count Shouvaloff, 
 assassinated in Moscow in 1904 — had even heard of Suffolk! It 
 was all very absurd, but very provoking. My host, who had lived 
 years in Russia, expostulated, and said that if the passport, which 
 was quite in order, was not returned, with the permit to leave upon 
 it, by ten o'clock next morning, he would go to the Consul-General 
 and make a formal protest. The passport was returned, but so 
 blurred, blotted, and otherwise defaced that I feared it might 
 involve me in trouble further on. Why this action was taken by the 
 police I never knew. Some thought it was a case of blackmailing ; 
 others that, knowing me to be an ecclesiastic of some influence, 
 I was thought to be on my way to Siberia to report against its 
 prison system. Anyhow, when the matter came to Lord Salisbury's 
 knowledge, he communicated with the Russian Government, 
 obtained an apology for the police having acted ultra vires, and 
 from that date I have been supplied with a passport specially visS 
 by the Russian Ambassador in England, which has freed me from 
 all such vexatious detentions. One other case of this kind happened 
 to me at Riga, and if I had not been with English merchants, who 
 knew Russia and the Russians by long residence in the country, 
 much difficulty and delay would have been the result. 
 
 On 21 February I left Warsaw for Moscow. The workmen on 
 Russian railways during the winter live along the lines in under- 
 ground dwellings, such as the Armenians and Turkomans inhabit ; 
 very snug quarters in such a climate, as our British forefathers also 
 found them. So that the soil be light, sandy, and dry, a people who 
 possess no impedimenta of civilization, no bed or furniture, and who 
 never read or write, want nothing better. 
 
 Brest-Litewski, between Warsaw and Smolensk, is a very large 
 and important fortress and garrison ; even the station itself is 
 battlemented and loopholed. What should we think in England of 
 a fortified railway station? How would Swindon or Clapham 
 Junction look adorned in such defensive fashion? Some places 
 and properties in this part of Russia are three hundred miles from a 
 railway station. Russian country cemeteries are, many of them, set 
 with high wooden crosses, giving them a weird appearance, as if 
 hundreds of crucifixions had taken place there. 
 
 Referring to the revolutionists in Russia, of whom I heard so much 
 when at Warsaw, these facts must be considered. In Russia there 
 are no elementary schools. There are gymnasia and universities, to
 
 1896] HOW NIHILISTS ARK HRKI) 239 
 
 which any aspiring family sends a boy. This raises hmi in ihc 
 intellectual scale. He cannot fall back into his own line of life and 
 become a peasant or small artisan again. There are no professions 
 for him to take up, or very few. Government will ncH employ such, 
 and finding themselves well educated, but very poor, they set them- 
 selves to overthrow the Government in order to pick up what tliey 
 can get in the scramble. They become nihilists, revolutionists, at 
 best dangerous socialists. This is very short-sighted policy on the 
 part of the Government, and as a consequence the student class is 
 ever the most dissatisfied and revolutionary. Are we not doing 
 much the same in India, and creating there the same danger ? 
 
 Night journeys in Russia, by reason of the great distances to be 
 traversed, are a necessity, but are very trying. Dr. Russell, of the 
 Times, a great traveller in his day, called the attempt to sleep in the 
 train "that modified form of nightmare which, in a nocturnal 
 journey, passes under the name of sleep." Quite my experience of 
 the nightly attempts I so frequently have to make all over North 
 and Central Europe, and especially in Russia, where the journeys 
 are protracted through several days and nights. But there is one 
 blessing left in Russian night travelling. The Russians make no 
 noise ; they are the quietest and most silent of nations, moving 
 about stealthily like panthers. They receive the train as it comes 
 in with absolute silence ; not a word is spoken ; everybody and 
 everything seems asleep or dead in and about the station, so very 
 different from the noisy, screaming French, who shout and shriek at 
 every station, making night hideous, though no one may enter or 
 leave the train. Now and then you may open one eye — for it is 
 necessary to keep one always partly open in Russia — and see a big 
 sheep-skinned oflScial looking in upon you, but he is quiet as a mouse 
 about it, bows courteously when he sees you stir, closes the door as 
 if it were velvet, and retires when he has satisfied himself that you are 
 aHve. As for shrieking like a Frenchman, he would be sent on to 
 Siberia by next train if he did so ! 
 
 I have stated that it is necessary to keep an eye always more or 
 less open in Russian railway travel. Not only are there thieves to 
 guard against, but there are dvorniks to keep temperature to thawing 
 point in the matter of fires. They are given a certain amount of 
 fuel for each journey : if any is left, it is their percjuisite, thus they 
 need stirring as well as their fires. I also have repeatedly to 
 remind the guard that I want " chai " at every principal stojjping-
 
 240 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL ti«96 
 
 station, and I demand of him when that will be. Being totally 
 unconversable, he breathes the frost off the inner of the double 
 windows, and with his finger makes figures — common to all 
 European nations — which by no means always work out right or 
 are understandable. For instance, he writes twelve, which may 
 mean several things ; it may mean twelve hours, or twelve minutes, 
 or twelve versts, or twelve stations more before we stop, so that this 
 " figure of speech " requires much mental arithmetic. 
 
 Upon this particular journey there are but three stations of any 
 size through the 1200 versts from Warsaw to Moscow, viz. Brest- 
 Litewski, Minsk, and Smolensk ; all others are either by a group of 
 wretched hovels, or out on the virgin steppe, some forty or fifty 
 miles, perhaps, from a town. They are, in fact, stations for the 
 district. This line of railway is interesting at some points, e.g. 
 where it crosses the Dnieper and where it crosses and recrosses 
 the great chaussk upon which Napoleon passed with the grand 
 army — grand only on its outward-bound course. This chaussee, 
 as all others in Russia, is not a road as we know roads in Western 
 Europe, it is but a broad track. However this being one of im- 
 portance, has been metalled of late years. The snow upon this 
 journey was abnormally deep, for nearly a day it was, when cleared, 
 up to the carriage windows. In the south, in the Orel district, it 
 was even deeper, the lines being blocked for three days, the mouths 
 of tunnels completely closed, and one hundred and thirty persons, 
 together with a large number of cattle and horses, lost in the snow- 
 storms and buried in the snow. The historic Beresina Ues across 
 this route, the grave of a no small remnant of Napoleon's retreat- 
 ing troops. The river at the time was frozen, and the wooden 
 bridge was unable to carry the thousands of wretched fugitives who 
 crowded upon it, flying from the hordes of Cossacks, who swept 
 like a whirlwind of snow around the doomed army. The thaw of 
 the following spring alone revealed how frightful the loss had been. 
 
 The " expresses " in Russia do not stop long even at the larger 
 stations, and one is always in fear of being left behind in the 
 refreshment-rooms, which are generally somewhat remote and difficult 
 of access. A Russian lady told me that even Russians are not un- 
 frequently left behind, and with but one "express" per day the 
 prospect is appalling. Added to this there is no one to inquire of 
 or tell you anything. The Russians call all Western nations "the 
 silent people," because we can't talk to them ; so between their own
 
 i896] A RUSSIAN RAILWAY STATION 241 
 
 voluntary and our enforced silence a journey in Russia is apt to be 
 somewhat tiresome. A German, a Frenchman, a Scamlinavian one- 
 hails as a near neighbour and dear brother in this far land. When 
 the train empties itself at the large stations and promenades up and 
 down the platform the passengers are a study. A Western can be 
 distinguished easily by his dress, face, and step. But they are few, 
 the passengers consisting mostly of Russian, Armenian, or Easterns 
 of some type; always many Russian or Asiatic Jews, as can be 
 discerned by their dark sly faces, their furs, caps, and big boots. 
 The ladies swing up and down in huge velvet cloaks of many 
 colours — purple, blue, green, grey — stamped with flowers, lined with 
 fur, and sweeping the snow. The fantastic forms into which the 
 snow is blown in the railway cuttings is a never-ceasing interest, 
 huge roofs, cornices, domes, sometimes like gigantic waves of the 
 sea as they curl over in a gale before breaking. The frozen ground, 
 unyielding to the pressure of the train, makes the jar and jolting 
 over the rails and rail joints — never particularly well laid in Russia 
 — a terrible addition to the fatigue of travelling. 
 
 Borodino, seventy-two miles from Moscow, is the only pretty spot 
 in the whole wild, waste journey of 1800 versts ; the Moskva 
 winding about in its deep wooded valley on its way to Moscow. 
 Here in this broken country the drifts were so enormous that they 
 were making walls of frozen blocks — like white marble in appear- 
 ance — to break the driving snow, and keep the line clear. Hundreds 
 of men and women were struggling to keep one line open, the other 
 being hopelessly blocked, with signal-boxes and crossing-huts buried 
 to their roofs. It is worth the journey to Moscow to see the great 
 station yard on a winter's night, brilliant under the electric light. 
 Who, upon a first arrival at Venice, has not been astonished to find 
 the station surrounded on all sides by water close up to the trains, 
 with a multitude of black gondolas gliding and splashing about in 
 it ? Who that has ever arrived at a large Russian railway station 
 in winter has not been astonished also at the silent gliding in and 
 out of the hundreds of black sledges, with their furs, their bells, 
 their little rough horses, each with a big, bright bow arched high 
 over his neck, each with its mujik in bright blue coat, his bizarre 
 belt, and broidered caftan, grasping his coloured reins and soliciting 
 in respectful Eastern earnestness the jostling passengers to take his 
 the best of all the endless acres of sledges from which to make 
 selection. And they are endless; of all sizes, shapes, colours, ranged, 
 
 R
 
 242 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1896 
 
 packed, crammed, jammed together rank after rank, till all of 
 them, their ponies, and their drivers seem a limitless wilderness. 
 Great preparations were already in course for the coronation, which 
 was to be one of record magnificence. Emirs, Khans, and chiefs 
 from all Eastern, Central, and Southern Asiatic Provinces of Russia; 
 representatives from Bokhara, Kurdistan, Turkestan, Circassia, Geor- 
 gia, Armenia, Mongolia, Tartary ; from the frontiers of China and 
 Thibet, Afghanistan and the Hindu Kush. 
 
 Sunday morning is always not one of the sights, but one of the 
 sounds of Moscow to hear. The bells of the Kremlin, whose size, 
 weight, and number no man can number, at an early hour open 
 their cannonade — for it is nothing else — and are taken up by the 
 many hundreds of other churches, till the effect is that of the whole 
 city under a bombardment. Here at Moscow I found much im- 
 provement in our church ; stained glass windows almost throughout 
 by Heaton and Butler, an oak reredos relieved by brass ornament- 
 ation, etc. On the Sunday I preached to a very full church, many 
 of our countrymen coming in from a far distance for the services 
 and functions during their Bishop's visitation. We went to the 
 eleven o'clock service — when our congregations in England were 
 going to their early celebration, at 8 a.m. Though it was according 
 to our calendar 23 February, the Psalms were those for the eleventh 
 day of the month, already read by me in England three days before 
 I left. 
 
 An Anglo-Muscovite told me a good three-cornered story of " the 
 Russian loan to China, and where the money went," as an illustration 
 of the way in which England invariably gets the best of the money 
 market. Russia and France would have nothing to do with England 
 in respect of this loan. England was to be boycotted. So Russia 
 borrowed the money from France and lent it to China, who in turn 
 paid the amount on account of the war indemnity to Japan. Japan 
 deposited the amount in the Bank of England, so England, after all, 
 got the money ! 
 
 At the confirmation here the church was not only packed with 
 English and Russians, but the doors had to be guarded to keep out 
 the contending crowd desirous of gaining admission. Afterwards I 
 walked to the Kremlin and looked once more at that wonderful 
 congeries of walls, towers, churches, cupolas, gateways, in endless 
 maze of glorious glittering splendour as the sun went down. I am 
 always thankful for being permitted to see it once again, a never-
 
 '^96] MOSCOW 2., 
 
 varying pageant of Eastern splendour. I am afraid of exasRcratioii 
 in any description of my own, and would rather (luotc- that of 
 another. Dean Stanley writes more than I dare, for I confess lo a 
 profound and unbounded admiration for the far-away old Tartar 
 capital. 
 
 "That marvellous city," he writes, "is the very personification of 
 the ecclesiastical history of Russia. ' Our Holy Mother, Moscow,' 
 is the peasant's endearing name for the city, nay, even for the 
 road that leads to it. Hallowed by no apostolic legend, not even 
 by any Byzantine missions ; cleared out of the forests which down to 
 the fourteenth century overhung and still leave their names on the 
 banks of the Moskva ; with no other attraction than its central situa- 
 tion in the heart of the Russian limijire, it has yet acquired a power 
 over the religious mind of a larger part of Christendom than is 
 probably exercised by any other city, except Jerusalem or Rome. 
 Look at its forest of towers, and domes springing like gaudy flowers 
 —blue, red, green, silver, golden— from the wide field of green roofs 
 and groves and gardens. It is a very Russian Rome, no doubt, but 
 still like it, the city of innumerable churches, of everlasting bells, of 
 endless processions, of palaces and churches combined, of tombs 
 and thrones, of relics and treasures, of invasions and deliverances 
 as far back as its history extends. Look further at the concentration 
 of all this in the Kremlin. In that fortress, surrounded by its crusted 
 towers and battlemented walls, are united all the elements of the 
 ancient religious life of Russia. Side by side stand the cathedrals 
 of the marriages, coronations, and funerals of the Czars. Hard by 
 are two convents, half palatial, half episcopal. Overhanging all is 
 the double, triple palace of Czar and Patriarch. Within that 
 palace is a labyrinth of fourteen chapels, multiplied by sovereign 
 after sovereign, till the Imperial residence has been made more 
 like the dwelling-place of a Pope than of a Prince. The Tartar- 
 hke building in which these chapels are imbedded, itself crabbed, 
 ribbed, low-browed, painted within and without in the old barbarian 
 grotesqueness of medieval Russia, is encased in the external 
 magnificence of modern civilization and European grandeur. In 
 looking round from the walls of the Kremlin over the city of 
 Moscow, what are the landmarks which break the endless complica- 
 tion of domes and cupolas in every street and open space? The 
 eye rests at once on the towers of vast monasteries, which at 
 regular intervals encircle the outskirts of the whole city, each
 
 244 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1896 
 
 encompassed with its embattlemented walls, forming together a 
 girdle of gigantic fortresses." 
 
 And immediately below the inner Tartar walls of the Kremlin 
 stands that miracle of architecture, the Basil Cathedral, which 
 Dean Stanley thus picturesquely describes : — 
 
 " That sumptuous church remains a monument of the mad 
 hermit (Basil). It is the cathedral immediately outside the KremUn 
 walls, well termed the dream of a diseased imagination. It was 
 built according to the caprice of Ivan IV to commemorate the 
 conquest of Kasan. Hundreds of artists were kidnapped from 
 Lubeck to erect it ; pagoda on pagoda, cupola on cupola, staircase 
 on staircase, pinnacle on pinnacle, red, blue, green, and gold ; 
 chapel within chapel, altar above altar, to see how many could be 
 congregated under a single roof. Day by day, it is said, he sat in 
 the small belfry tower on the Kremlin walls to watch its completion, 
 and when completed put out the eyes of the architect that no finer 
 work might ever be executed. Yet in this favourite church of a 
 worse than Ahab, was interred, as though he and his people were 
 unconscious of any inconsistency, the body of one who was dreaded 
 by him, and revered by the people almost as a second Elijah. He 
 lies in the most costly of the many chapels ; his iron chains and 
 collar — which he w^ore upon his naked body summer and winter 
 alike — hang over his bones ; and his name, St. Basil, has super- 
 seded the earlier title which the Czar had given it, ' The Protector 
 of our Lady,' in allusion to the conquest of Kasan, which it com- 
 memorated. Of all the buildings in Moscow, it makes the deepest 
 impression ; it stands alone as a fitting monument of the mad Czar 
 and his mad reprover." 
 
 The atmosphere of Russia in winter, without a cloud in the air, 
 flashes like the electric light upon everything. To a Londoner's 
 eye it is dazzling. Every turret, dome, pinnacle, cupola, battlement 
 of the Kremlin stands out in the peacock-blue vault like some 
 great architectural aurora borealis. Just at that time, in preparation 
 for the coronation, every part of the Kremlin was swarming with 
 workmen, looking like flies far up above the lower world of Moscow, 
 on towers, pinnacles, and points of this Oriental labyrinth of colour- 
 ing and gold. It was a sight to watch these busy hundreds, working 
 high up aloft, not in the clouds — for there were none— but in the 
 intense cold of the upper regions, where, suspended on ropes, plat- 
 forms, planks, and ladders, they looked like so many spiders. This
 
 '896] A RUSSIAN BEGGAR-HOY 245 
 
 was for the illuminations, as well as for retouching the cohniriti^; 
 and gilding of this wilderness of architecture. An Englishman 
 living in Moscow told me that one night, in a severe frost, he took 
 his latchkey out of his pocket, and having his hands full, put it 
 between his teeth for a moment. It immediately froze to his lips, 
 and had to be melted with his tongue before he could get it away. 
 I am told that the snow through which I passed, between Smolensk 
 and Moscow, had been far worse between Smolensk, Orel, and the 
 Sea of Azof. In those regions trains had lieen blocked for thirty- 
 six hours, so I had reason to be thankful that we got through as we 
 did. Having been driven back by snowstorms when I attempted 
 to reach the Sparrow Hills three years before, I made another 
 attempt this time in a gala-troika of three white horses, all bedizened 
 and bedecked, as is the manner and delight of the Muscovites. It 
 was a grand view ; the great golden dome (not gilded, for it is of 
 beaten gold) of St. Saviour's Cathedral stood, flashing out like fire, 
 dominating all other buildings of the Holy City. At our feet, just 
 across the Moskwa, lay the great Novo Devitsky monastery, its red, 
 battlemented walls, towers, and domes forming a perfect fore- 
 ground. 
 
 Walking one day in Moscow, a small beggar-boy, amidst much 
 wailing of pretended auguish, asked an alms. I did not know what 
 his eloquence was endeavouring to convey till the friend with whom 
 I was walking interpreted it for me. " Oh, kind, good sirs," was 
 the burden of his long-drawn prayer, " of your dearness, do pray 
 give this poor, wretched little boy one small kopek." Begging in 
 Russia is a trade. If you ask an able-bodied beggar why he does not 
 work, he takes it as an insult, as one pursuing a respectable and, 
 indeed, honourable calling. "Sir," he will say in an injured voice, 
 " I do not work ; I'm a beggar." 
 
 The Cazalets are an old Anglo-Russian family of several genera- 
 tions. Mr. William Cazalet told me that his great-grandfather was 
 murdered at old Novgorod on this wise. He was invited to dine 
 with a party of merchants. After dinner all seemed going pleas- 
 antly and well, when they suddenly set upon and killed him. It is 
 supposed that they were jealous of his doing well in business. This 
 was in the days of Peter the Great. 
 
 Not believing in the sensational things published so frequently 
 upon Russian prisons, I had been anxious for years to see one where 
 prisoners for Siberian exile are confined ; I applied to the authorities,
 
 246 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1896 
 
 and found there were difficulties. Exaggerated reports had been 
 pubhshed in England and America about Russian prisons, and my 
 wish was looked upon with suspicion. However, after two or three 
 days' delay the desired permission came from the Civil Governor of 
 Moscow, and I was allowed to pay my visit. I assured the authori- 
 ties that I was friendly to Russia and the Russian Government, and 
 had no intention of publishing anything prejudicial to its prison 
 administration. What I am about to record I have therefore 
 thought it right to submit to the censorship of the Civil Governor. 
 He has read what I have written, and with a few amendments and 
 omissions made at his request, I have his permission to publish my 
 observations and impressions. 
 
 Armed with the permission of the Civil Governor of Moscow, I 
 went on 26 February to the great Peresilni Prison, where exiles for 
 Siberia to the number of two thousand had been collecting during 
 the winter for their long journey. It is a huge building surrounded 
 by heavy, strong, white outer walls, with a bastion at each angle. The 
 guard saluted as we drove up. A large group of men and women 
 with children on their backs, perhaps sixty in all, were being 
 admitted. Guards were standing at the entrance with drawn swords. 
 We were received by officials in uniform : one the Governor of the 
 prison, the other the Inspector of prisons. The Goveriwr only spoke 
 Russian, the Inspector, a sharp, shrewd, capable-looking man, spoke 
 French. His uniform was dark green, that of the Governor black 
 with red facings ; guards stood on each side of the entrance-hall also 
 in uniform. We were taken up first into an office where sat several 
 officials at work, others standing about. In the corner, as ever and 
 everywhere in a Russian dwelling, stood an ikon with a candle burn- 
 ing before it. Some conversation ensued, and then the Governor 
 and Inspector asked me to accompany them. First we were shown 
 the kitchen, very large and clean. Specimens of the prisoners' food 
 had been placed upon a table for my inspection — soup, porridge, 
 and bread which the Inspector tasted. The bread was black, but of 
 good quality : the same as that usually eaten in Russia. Then to the 
 store-rooms containing huge bales of canvas for clothing, specimens 
 of which were given to me. The men's canvas is coarse, that of the 
 women less so. The great-coats for both men and women are of 
 camel's skin with the hair on. Then to the bakery, which contained 
 stacks of black bread. We were shown about one thousand out of 
 the two thousand then in the prison. First we went into the chapel.
 
 1896] THE GREAT I'l-RESILNl I'RISON J47 
 
 which is circular in order tlial all tlic congregation may see ihe altar 
 and the priest. The circular part is screened o(T by a heav7 iron 
 grating, beyond which, amongst the pillars, the prisoners stand for 
 worship. This is the Orthodox Russian chapel. We were then taken 
 to the Roman and Lutheran cha{)cls, all three religions existing in 
 Russia, and provided for here. The texts around the walls of these 
 chapels are in Russian, Polish, German, and three Asiatic languages : 
 " Turn to Me, and I will release you," " God is Love," etc. Then 
 to the corridor-rooms where the prisoners arc allowed to see their 
 friends. These long corridors are separated into three parts. In 
 one part the prisoners stand, and in another their friends. They are 
 separated by two sets of heavy iron gratings from the floor to the 
 ceiling ; the space between may be two yards wide, and in this space, 
 between the prisoners and their friends, guards walk u[) and down. 
 The prisoners consist mainly of three classes of criminals. The 
 first are those found wandering about in any part of the Russian 
 Empire without passports. The second are called " vagabonds," by 
 which I gathered that they could give no account of themselves, and 
 were suspects. The prisoners are confined in very large rooms, 
 containing, perhaps, fifty to one hundred persons. The trestle bed- 
 steads are exceedingly rough and strongly made ; there is no bedding 
 upon them, only a thin, dark palliasse rolled up and placed at the 
 bed head. Rows upon rows of prisoners, all in chains, were stand- 
 ing to receive us, each at the foot of his bed. As the Inspector 
 unlocked each door, and threw it open, he exclaimed in a loud 
 voice, " Good morning, brothers." To which a deep roll of voices 
 came back, "Good morning, sir," in Russian or other languages, 
 according to nationality. Many of the faces were hardly human, 
 brutal beyond description. All are shaved upon their heads m 
 different ways. Some on the right side, others on the left, and in a 
 variety of shapes not improving their appearance. Murderers and 
 women criminals are shaved in different ways, marking their crmic. 
 Some few were working in separate rooms at various trades— button- 
 making, shoe-making, tailoring. These were not many, but, no 
 doubt, the work of the prisons is done by the prisoners. In one 
 room we were shown the Tartar prisoners. These were keeping 
 their Ramazan, being Mohammedans. "They are keeping their 
 festival to-day," said the Governor, though I failed to see in what 
 the festivities consisted ; they appeared to be in exactly the same 
 wretched, hopeless plight as the other criminals. The Mohamme.lan
 
 248 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1896 
 
 women's room was exactly the same. One room possessed a terrible 
 interest. As the inspector opened it, he turned to me, and lowering 
 his voice, said, " Here are eighty-five women who have murdered 
 their husbands." It came as a horrible shock. We then entered 
 and walked between the rows of these wretched creatures, each 
 standing at the foot of her bedstead. He stopped in front of one 
 young woman, not at all bad-looking, and with an almost gentle 
 expression of face, and said, " I think you poisoned your husband, 
 didn't you ? " To which she replied, " No ; they said I did, but he 
 did it himself." The boys' part of the prison was, happily, nearly 
 empty. This was a good sign. Only some eight or ten, and they 
 were only found wandering about without passports, and would be 
 sent back to their homes. There are three classes of prisoners sent 
 to Siberia. 
 
 1. Those who have committed minor ofiences. These are sent 
 into the first zone between the Ural Mountains and the Lena River. 
 
 2. Those who have committed worse ofiences, and are sent into 
 the second zone between the Lena and the Yenesei rivers. 
 
 3. The worst criminals who are sent to the island of Saghalien, 
 off" the Siberian coast, on the Sea of Okhotsk. These never return. 
 This island reverting in part to Japan, will probably be now no 
 longer available for Russian convicts. 
 
 The cells of the political prisoners are situated in the four flank- 
 ing bastions. There are three tiers of them, each ^tage connected 
 by a spiral staircase. The cells are very small, about twelve feet 
 square, lighted by a little window about two feet high and one 
 broad. Beyond the windows, which are double, is an iron grating, 
 and an iron defence beyond that again. A small pallet bed, a small 
 table and stool, an iron wash-basin and water supply complete the 
 furniture. The door is provided with a wicket, through which 
 food is passed. It also serves for an opening for observation. 
 
 The Governor, m response to my request, gave me a pair of chains 
 from a huge store-chest full of them. In showing me how they 
 were fastened to the legs, the Inspector went up to two or three of 
 the prisoners, showing how they were riveted on. No shame 
 appeared to be felt by them at all. But when I asked how the 
 chains were kept up, for they are very heavy, he told a young fellow 
 to take his chains down from his waist, which is the only part the 
 prisoners themselves can loose. I then saw that he wore nothing 
 but the canvas jacket and the canvas trousers. This is no hardship,
 
 1896] THE NEW CATHEDRAL 249 
 
 as the rooms are well heated. The chains are fastened by two iron 
 collars, one round each leg, and are suspended upon a strap which 
 passes round the waist. I wondered how these poor wretches got 
 through their weary days. Sixty, eighty to a hundred in the same 
 room, chained and sitting on their miserable bed-end.s. I asked the 
 Governor if they could not combine and overpower the warders. 
 To which he replied, " We have eighty armed warders in the prison, 
 and could immediately summon more help if rc(iuired." 
 
 Having seen all, I thanked the Governor and Inspector for their 
 courtesy and attention, and assured them that I was most friendly 
 disposed to the Russian Government, and only wished, in asking 
 permission to see what they had so kindly shown me, to satisfy 
 myself that things were not so bad as some writers had represented. 
 Naturally, prisons further eastward and in Siberia would not be so 
 well appointed as this in Moscow. It would not be fair to judge 
 the Russian prison system by our own. If things are not as we 
 arrange them in Western Europe, we must remember that the 
 prisoners to be dealt with are of a worse and more desperate type, 
 and that in going so far eastward, the traveller, though he anticipates 
 the dawn by three hours, falls back, if not as many centuries, at all 
 events far behind our Western standpoint. 
 
 I called upon the Civil Governor of Moscow — who had given me 
 this entree — writing upon my card, " With the Bishop's thanks for 
 the Governor's kindness." I also called upon the Grand Duke and 
 Grand Duchess Sergius (Princess Elizabeth of Hesse). \Vhen we 
 told the mujik to drive to the Grand Ducal Palace, he said, "Oh 
 yes, to Sergius the son of Alexander," which is cjuite the Russian 
 way of putting it, though disrespectful to our Western ears. It will 
 be remembered that the Grand Duke fell a victim to an assassin's 
 bomb soon after " Red Sunday," in 1905. 
 
 I carefully inspected, upon this visit to Moscow, the interior of the 
 new Cathedral of St. Saviour, built as a thank-offering for the 
 deliverance of Moscow from Napoleon's invasion. The pictures — 
 all by Russian artists, no foreign art being allowed in Russian 
 churches — are very beautiful. The monk Sergius blessing Dimitri 
 on his departure to fight the Tartars is one of the best out of a fine 
 array too numerous to mention in detail. 
 
 On the night of 26 February I left Moscow for Petersburg, a 
 Russian gentleman— married to an English lady— coming with his 
 nice son, whom I had confirmed, to see me off. This, in some 50°
 
 250 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1S96 
 
 of frost, was very friendly. Two young Russians, my fellow travel- 
 lers, were going to shoot bears. Their dress was quaint, consisting 
 of reindeer skins and grey furs. I was told that they would have 
 to drive one hundred miles to the shooting-ground from the station 
 at which they would alight. The night was exceedingly cold, but 
 having a first-class compartment reserved for me was snug and com- 
 fortable, and glad not to have to turn out and sledge a hundred 
 miles even to shoot bears. 
 
 An instance was given me of the ignorance and superstition of the 
 Russian peasantry. A travelling blacksmith, working from village to 
 village in a district where cattle plague had broken out, was suspected 
 of having exercised (like Wayland Smith) occult arts. He was set 
 upon and killed. The Russians like the English individually but not 
 nationally. They charge us with having crossed their path in every 
 direction, thwarted them in every possible way, and defeated their 
 legitimate aspirations. This may be supposed to mean that we 
 have barred their way to India. Wood being the only fuel burnt in 
 Russia, gives the towns when seen from a distance the appearance of 
 steaming instead of smoking. Moscow or Petersburg, for instance, 
 viewed from a distance, look as if they were cities of workshops in 
 full steam, and in the clear frosty air the appearance is very beauti- 
 ful. Russian cities are well protected from fire. Towers are erected 
 all over them like lighthouses with a gallery running round the top 
 upon which men are stationed day and night to give alarm. In 
 Moscow there are no less than fifty such towers, for a fire amongst 
 so many wooden houses means a great and terrible conflagration. 
 The suburbs of Petersburg are very extensive, churches, towers, 
 monasteries lying out all over the country round about for miles 
 before the city itself is reached. 
 
 Upon my arrival from Moscow, I found that the ecclesiastics, 
 gathered in the capital from all parts of the Empire for a week of 
 elaborate functions, hearing that an Anglican Bishop was expected, 
 had expressed their wish that I should take part in them. This was 
 very friendly, and I, of course, accepted their invitation, expressing 
 my appreciation of their brotherly kindness. 
 
 On 28 February Prince Andronikoff, representing the Holy Synod, 
 came to accompany me upon my visit to the Metropolitan of Peters- 
 burg. I went, by advice of local authorities, in my scarlet robes 
 and with pastoral staff. The palace of the Archbishop is in the 
 Nevsky Monastery. We were ushered up into a large saloon
 
 i896] THE ARCHBISHOP OF PETERSBURG 251 
 
 stocked with flowers, ferns, and shrubs, like a large ballroom, ihcncc 
 through another about half the size, and then into a third, the 
 audience room, from the end of which the Metropolitan entered 
 through folding doors. He was dressed in a long, flowing habit of 
 black and white silk, with a white caftan upon his head, in front of 
 which was a small diamond cross, the badge of a Metropolitan, 
 white drapery falling from the back of the caftan. Two jewelled 
 and enamelled orders, gold and set with diamonds, depended from 
 chains upon his breast, inscribed with Russian words. A large 
 jewelled pectoral cross hung between the orders from a large gold 
 chain. We shook hands ; Mr. iJirkbcck and those with me kissing 
 his hand. He motioned me to a sofa in the middle of the room, 
 upon which we two sat, those accompanying me sitting on chairs on 
 either side, which had all been arranged evidently for the inter- 
 view. The furniture in this and in all the other rooms through 
 which we had passed was gilt, upholstered with light-blue figured 
 satin. 
 
 Prince Andronikoff interpreted the Metropolitan's greetings to 
 me, and to him my satisfaction at the opportunity of seeing him. 
 I spoke of our pleasure in having received Bishoi) Nicolai, of Alaska, 
 lately in England, suggesting that the Orthodox Church of Russia 
 should send a representative to attend the Lambeth Conference the 
 following year to meet the two hundred bishops of the Anglican 
 Communion from aU parts of the world. If he so desired I would 
 suggest it to the Archbishop of Canterbury. He quite agreed, but 
 said that the invitation must come through the Holy Synod, and 
 not direct to him. He suggested the Archbishop of Finland and 
 Helsingfors as the prelate most fitting to go upon such a mission. 
 I warned him not to receive any one pretending to belong to our 
 Church except through our chai^lain at Petersburg. I gave this 
 caution in view of approaches which had been made to the Arch- 
 bishop by unauthorized persons. I showed him my passport from 
 Lord Salisbury setting forth my object as a bishop duly appointed 
 to visit the Russian chaplaincies. This seemed to impress him very 
 favourably. It was evidently just such accord of Church and Slate 
 as the Orthodox Church of Russia would entirely appreciate. 
 
 As we sat and talked a servant entered with a silver tray upon 
 which were glasses of tea in silver sockets, with confections and 
 sweetmeats, called in Russia and the East " comdeterskoi," to which 
 he helped me. We talked for about half an hour entirely upon the
 
 252 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1896 
 
 Russian and Anglican Churches, and the possibilities of union 
 between them. He sent for a Russian book, and said that an 
 Englishman had spoken recently upon the subject in England with 
 a warmth that had much pleased him. He turned to the passage, 
 and it was Mr. Birkbeck's speech at the Norwich Church Congress 
 in the previous October. When he found that the man who had 
 made the speech was sitting in the room he was much interested. 
 He showed me photographs of Archbishop Benson, Bishop King, 
 of Lincoln, and Harold Browne, of Winchester. Also photographs 
 of St. Paul's Cathedral reredos. I told him that I was the bishop 
 appointed by the Archbishop to represent the Anglican Church at 
 the 900th anniversary of the introduction of Christianity into 
 Russia, held at KiefT in the Jubilee year, though I was unable to 
 undertake the journey. As he talked of unity, I remarked that one 
 of the Psalms for the day was that upon this very subject, " Behold, 
 how joyful and pleasant a thing it is, brethren, to dwell together in 
 unity." This evidently impressed him very strongly. He said, 
 "We also in the Orthodox Church recite the Psalms daily as you 
 do." He then asked to be excused for a minute, returning imme- 
 diately, and bringing with him a very handsome ikon in an oak case, 
 which he asked me to accept. It is a picture of the Saviour set in 
 silver gilt and enamel. Prince Andronikoff told me that such a 
 gift is the greatest compliment to those whom the Metropolitan 
 desires to honour. He advanced with it, holding it open for me to 
 kiss as he presented it. Before we parted he invited me to a 
 function to be held the next day, the opening of the Theological 
 Academy of Petersburg, at which I should meet all the Archbishops 
 and Bishops now in the capital. He also invited me to attend the 
 great service at the Isaac Cathedral on the following Monday to 
 celebrate the freeing of the serfs throughout the Russian Empire. 
 This was arranged. I then said that I should like to visit the tomb 
 of Alexander Nevski in the great church of the monastery built by 
 Catharine II. This is quite the proper wish to express, and he was 
 evidently much gratified by my expressing it. He at once sum- 
 moned two archimandrites, who were instructed to accompany me. 
 When I took my leave, he said he hoped it would not be the last 
 time he would see me in his palace. He kissed me on both cheeks, 
 which I returned, saying as he did, " Christ is betwixt us," the 
 orthodox salutation between tw'O bishops. 
 
 I then walked over the grounds in the snow to the monastery
 
 1896] M. POBIEDONOSTZEF-'F^ 253 
 
 church, those assembled in the courtyard going down as I passed lo re- 
 ceive the Anglican liishop's blessing. It was a very touching sight, all 
 done so simply, so naturally. Had I declined lo give them the 
 episcopal benediction it would not only have greatly hurt them, but 
 they would scarcely have believed that I was a bishop at all. I was 
 taken by the archimandrites to the altar, which is situated behind 
 the gilded gates in the sanctuary. I then kissed the altar, kneeling 
 at it, and saying a silent prayer for the peace and unity of the 
 Church, as the manner of the Eastern Church is to pray. Then lo 
 the tomb of Alexander Nevski. It is enormous, of massive silver, 
 rising almost half up to the roof of the church. The altar, huge 
 candlesticks, statues, reliefs, friezes, being all of solid silver, mined 
 in Siberia. Upon leaving the church the people bowed for my 
 blessing — and taking leave of the archimandrites, I drove aw^ay, a 
 considerable crowd having meanwhile gathered outside to sec the 
 Bishop in strange dress from a far land. Then to call upon M. 
 Pobiedonostzeff, the Procurator of the Holy Synod, and next to the 
 Emperor, by far the most powerful man in Russia. We conversed 
 in French, he knowing scarcely any English, which surprised me, 
 Russians being such fine linguists. He is a great student, speaking 
 of several English works, with which he expressed his sympathy 
 — Carlyle, Emerson, Froude, Balfour's Foundations of Faith, Glad- 
 stone on Bishop Butler, etc. He has a most remarkable face- 
 astute, shrewd, clever, unrelenting. As we passed out to his stair- 
 case, to which he accompanied me, through a lobby, he pointed to 
 a set of telephonic and telegraphic instruments, which put him in con- 
 nexion with Petersburg, the provinces, and the entire Empire, and 
 said, " Voila ! la peste de civilisation." It would suit him better to 
 have none of these things ; for he is a fossil, and, in the interests of 
 the Russian Empire, as all fossils, utterly unprogressive. 
 
 According to arrangement made with the Archbishop of Peters- 
 burg I went on 29 February in company with Prince AndronikoflT 
 to the Theological Academy. Crowds surrounded the entrance 
 steps and doors, going down again with bare heads to receive the 
 Anglican Bishop's blessing. Upon entering I was taken up into a 
 large room, where the Archbishops and Bishops were assembling, to 
 whom I was introduced. 
 
 Archbishop Antonio, of Finland and Helsingfors, struck me as the 
 finest and most interesting of them all. He was a youngish man, 
 handsome, with a dignified mien and beautiful face, dressed m a
 
 254 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1^96 
 
 flowing brown silk habit, wearing a blue and gold enamelled pectoral 
 cross, with orders suspended by scarlet ribbons. On his head he 
 wore a black caftan, with flowing drapery depending from behind. 
 He begged to be allowed to examine my pastoral staff, and asked 
 several questions about it, which Prince Andronikoff answered. 
 This was the Bishop I ventured to suggest should come to 
 England. He came, and stood with us on the steps of St. Paul's at 
 the Jubilee. I was then introduced to the Archbishop of Odessa 
 and Novgorod, and was duly kissed by them, whom I also kissed on 
 both cheeks. The same ceremony had to be gone through with 
 them all. 
 
 Mr. Sabler, a member of the Holy Synod, was also present, whom 
 I had rnet before, when he took me to the great service in the Isaac 
 Cathedral commemorating the sixth anniversary of the Czar's ac- 
 cession. He knows England, which none of these dignitaries do, 
 and speaks English. We then all went out to meet the Metropolitan 
 of Petersburg, down in the great entrance-hall. He was dressed in 
 a purple velvet robe, wearing a pectoral cross of diamonds and other 
 jewels. All the Archbishops and Bishops wore the State orders of 
 Vladimir and St. Anne. The Archbishop kissed me, and I him, and 
 we passed into the hall of the Academy, which was full of ofificers. 
 Army and State, and others in uniform. One end of the hall was 
 crowded with students. Andreas, the Minister of Public Education, 
 was present. 
 
 Music opened the proceedings, the students singing. Then came 
 the reading of the report of the Academy, followed by a long 
 dissertation from a Russian master of exegesis, of which I under- 
 stood not one word. This lasted two hours ! The ceremonies 
 concluded with more singing, the Archbishop of Petersburg closing 
 them with the Benediction. 
 
 Pobiedonostzeff was there in all his orders, as also Father John of 
 Cronstadt, who came in late. To him, as to Pobiedonostzeff, the 
 whole hall rose, except the Bishops. As Father John went out, the 
 rush of people to kiss his hand was a wondrous sight. People 
 broke in from outside, literally bursting through the attendants in 
 their frenzy — I can use no other term — to touch even the hem of his 
 garment. They simply fought inch by inch to get at him. He is 
 said to be a miracle-worker, and is followed about, almost as our 
 Lord was, by crowds who press about him with their sick, their 
 suffering, their needs, and troubles. When the late Czar was dying
 
 1896] THE THEOLOGICAL ACADEMY 255 
 
 at Livadia in the Crimea, he was sent for by the Imperial Family to 
 pray for and, under God, restore him to health again. As soon 
 as Father John saw the Czar he said he could not live more than ten 
 days, which was about the term of his life. When he is travelling, 
 and the train stops at a station where another train is waiting, the 
 passengers make a rush, en masse, to touch him and ask his prayers. 
 As he walks in the streets he is overwhelmed by crowds who flock 
 round and follow him. He feels this acutely, for he is a humble- 
 minded man. He tells them that he cannot work miracles, but that 
 God answers his prayers. Upon one occasion he tore off the robe 
 he was wearing, which the crowd had been touching, and as he rent 
 it in pieces told them they were committing sheer idolatry. Hut 
 it is useless, he cannot restrain them. He never takes a kopek from 
 the oflferings made to him, but gives it all away. He came uj) to me 
 in the Academy, kissed my hand, the cross I wore, and tlien saluted 
 me on the cheek. He has a most remarkable and beautiful face. 
 
 The Dean of the Isaac Cathedral also came, greeted and kissed 
 me; a dear old man, very friendly to us and our Church. Then 
 followed a great leave-taking of the Bishops, and then the most 
 interesting and striking event of all followed. The entire Academy 
 of students came pressing through the corridors to thank me for my 
 presence, and express their good will to me as a representative of 
 the Anglican Church. They crowded round to kiss my hand, and 
 spoke their kindly welcome and greeting through one of their 
 professors. And then I spoke to them in reply, and said how 
 gratified I was ; that in England we knew how kind and brotherly 
 the feeling of the Orthodox Church towards our Church was, and 
 how thoroughly we reciprocated those feelings. I told them that the 
 entire Anglican communion in England, America, India, and the 
 Colonies, prays daily for the unity of the Churches, and how I hoped 
 that at the Lambeth Conference the following year we should 
 welcome a Russian bishop amongst us. They cheered and cheered 
 again in response to what I said, and sang with really grand effect 
 the £?? TToAAa ht] Seo-Trora, the old Eastern cry, " O King (or chieQ, 
 live for ever." Then they all bowed their heads to receive my blessing. 
 It is necessary to go through all this. It is expected of a bishop, and 
 it must do good. These young fellows represent the future priest- 
 hood of the Orthodox Church, from the Arctic Circle to the frontiers 
 of India and China, and from Poland to Kamschatka. A very 
 memorable day indeed, which may God bless. I then made my
 
 256 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1896 
 
 way through the crowd of students, who Hned the staircases and 
 entrances, as I passed out into the crowds which had assembled to 
 see the EngHsh Bishop. These also bowed to receive my blessing, 
 which I gave them as I entered my carriage and drove away. 
 
 From the Academy I went to the Winter Palace, and wrote my 
 name in the Emperor's and Empress's book. Upon my return to 
 the Russian Company's premises I found a letter from Princess 
 Sheramatieff, a cousin of the Emperor, asking me to visit her the 
 next morning, but I had not a moment to spare for the purpose. A 
 Russian officer called upon me to ask about the title of the Life of 
 Father John of Croiistadt. He suggests My Life in Christ. I did not 
 think this would do, not conveying anything indicative of Father 
 John's career. I thought Father John of Cronstadt ; His Life in 
 Christ would be better. He also asked me to recommend a 
 publisher. I suggested Cassell. Cassell did ultimately and after 
 some hesitation publish it. A large volume, which might well have 
 been compressed, as I suggested it should be. Upon this visit to 
 Petersburg I confirmed 130 candidates, the Dean of St. Isaac's 
 Cathedral showing his sympathy with us by being present in the 
 congregation, which was a very large one indeed. Pobiedonostzeff 
 returned my call. 
 
 The evening of that day I drove out to Coates's cotton factory on 
 the Finland side of the Neva, and preached to a good congrega- 
 tion. As we returned our sledge was upset by the driver running 
 the sledge obliquely against the tram Hnes. Had a tram come 
 along at the time our heads would have been cut off, for one is 
 strapped into a Russian sledge by a huge bear-skin apron, and if 
 the sledge upsets the passengers are not thrown out, but the whole 
 thing goes over, passengers and all in one inextricable bundle. As 
 it was, a policeman got us free from the tightly strapped bear skin, 
 abusing the driver in strong official language. To which he 
 laconically and quite unconcernedly replied, " Nitchevo." 
 
 A Russian priest called to see me, a venerable old man, who 
 spoke, as do all these Russian ecclesiastics, most warmly of the 
 reunion of the Churches. 
 
 On 2 March I went to the Isaac Cathedral, as invited by the 
 MetropoUtan, to attend the great service commemorating the free- 
 ing of the serfs in 1 861 ; a Mass following for the repose of the late 
 Emperor's soul. Upon arriving at the cathedral I was taken behind 
 the great brazen gates into the Holy Place where the altar stands,
 
 1896] FATHER JOHN OF CRONSTADT 257 
 
 and there in their full church robes stood the Melroi)olitan of 
 Petersburg and Ladoga, the Archbishops of Moscow, Finland, and 
 Odessa, the Bishop of Novgorod and of the Academy, the Dean of 
 St. Isaac's and of the Kasan Cathedrals, together with swarms of 
 high dignitaries. All these kissed me, and with endless bowings I 
 saluted all present. The service then commenced ; I went out with 
 them when they passed to their places under the dome, and stood 
 within the rails taper in hand, such as all were provided with. It 
 was a very gorgeous function, the music exquisite. At its conclu- 
 sion I was given one of the little loaves from which the bread for 
 the Holy Communion is cut. It is stamped with a Greek cross and 
 a St. Andrew's cross — the patron saint of Russia. Between these 
 two crosses is " I.H.S." and the word " Nika " (Victory). 
 
 Upon returning through the gates to the Holy Place all the Arch- 
 bishops and Bishops gave me the kiss of peace, and the service was 
 at an end. The Dean then showed me over the cathedral with all 
 its numerous shrines and treasures. The altar plate, all of solid 
 gold, enormous, priceless, wondrous. Then followed a reception to 
 meet the dignitaries of the Orthodox Church. The Metropolitan 
 had called before my return. Several of those attending the great 
 service, ecclesiastical and civil, attended the reception, including 
 the Archbishop of Odessa, the Dean of St. Isaac's, Count Ignatieff, 
 somewhile Russian Ambassador at Constantinople and once military 
 attache to England ; Count Delianoff, Minister of Public Instruc- 
 tion ; and last, though by no means least. Father John of Cronstadt, 
 who brought for me a portrait of himself, painted on china. I had 
 much conversation with him about his biography, the unity of the 
 Churches, etc. He speaks no English : all had to be done through 
 an interpreter. We went up to our church, taking these dignitaries 
 with us, as they wished to see it. Assembled before the altar we 
 spoke words of brotherly sympathy, and desire for unity — the in- 
 variable keynote of the Orthodox Church of Russia. Pointing to 
 the great picture of the Crucifixion, which hung over the altar, 
 and stretching out his arm emphatically towards it, " Behold ! " ex- 
 claimed Father John, " the bond of brotherhood and unity through- 
 out the world." Upon our return to the house I asked I'ather 
 John's prayers for certain persons in whose welfare I was at that 
 time painfully interested, and he promised he would rive them. 
 Not long before he had visited a little crippled child and prayed for 
 it. He then left the room and went into another to speak to some 
 s
 
 258 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1896 
 
 one else. The child's little sister came in and said to her, "You 
 are better, aren't you ? Father John has been here." She made an 
 effort, got up, and found herself restored. A man came to him one 
 day in great distress about money matters. He was a cashier on 
 the Moscow line, and couldn't make his accounts balance by 300 
 roubles. He had been sent for to Moscow to account for the 
 deficiency, and asked Father John's prayers before he started. On 
 his way to Moscow he was walking up and down a platform in 
 much distraction, when a gentleman came up and asked what was 
 the matter. He told him, and the gentleman gave him the 300 
 roubles. 
 
 All the Anglo-Russians who have lived in Russia, many of them 
 from their birth, told me that this outburst of sympathy and good- 
 will towards our Church which I have described was the most extra- 
 ordinary they had ever known. The facts I have recorded of this 
 brotherly intercourse and friendliness appeared in all the leading 
 Russian papers, and were copied into those of Western Europe, as 
 well as into our English papers. The Times of 3 March published 
 the following upon it : " Our Petersburg correspondent telegraphs 
 that the periodical visit to St. Petersburg of the EngHsh Bishop 
 superintending Continental Chaplaincies has this time been the 
 occasion of something very like a demonstration of mutual sym- 
 pathy between English and Russian representative ecclesiastics. 
 The incident denotes an increasing interchange of courtesies 
 between members of the Anglican and Russian Churches, and has 
 attracted some public attention. On Friday Bishop Wilkinson paid 
 a visit to the Metropolitan of St. Petersburg, at the Nevski Monas- 
 tery. . . . The Novo Vremya described the visit as having been ' one 
 of considerable pomp and ceremony, as well as great cordiality and 
 friendliness. Bishop Wilkinson, in Convocation robes, with his 
 episcopal staff", knelt in prayer at the altar, and kissed the Holy 
 Image of the Saviour, with which he was blessed by the Metro- 
 politan Palladius.'* 
 
 " During the visit the conversation turned upon the desirability of 
 
 union of the Churches. On Saturday Bishop Wilkinson was present 
 
 at the annual ceremony of the Russian Ecclesiastical Academy, 
 
 * This is incorrect, as I explained upon my return to England. The 
 Russians have no images to kiss, abhorring images even more than we do. Nor 
 did Palladius bless me. The Kiss of Peace given by all Orthodox bishops being 
 probably meant. It w^uld mt have been ecclesiastically correct to have blessed 
 
 tne.
 
 1896] DEMONSTRATION AT THK STATION 259 
 
 when all the pupils were led up to him by their professors and 
 introduced. On Sunday Bishop Wilkinson held a confirmation 
 service for 130 members of the British community in the ICn^lish 
 church, which was attended by several Russian dignitaries, includ- 
 ing the Dean of St. Isaac's Cathedral. Yesterday the Bishop held a 
 reception of the Russian clergy." 
 
 Before leaving Petersburg I visited a boy in the hospital, named 
 Wardroper, whom I had confirmed upon a former visit. He was 
 suffering terribly from the effects of a fire. The story is one illus- 
 trating English faithfulness and pluck. When the fire broke out, 
 instead of running away and saving himself, he got a bucket of 
 water, and told the Russian employes of the factory to fill and hand 
 it up to him upon a ladder. A bucket of turpentine was standing 
 near, which he told them to take away. This was not done, but in 
 the confusion handed to him. He threw it upon the fire, and was 
 in a moment enveloped in flames. Rushing out he rolled himself in 
 the snow, and fearfully burnt as he was, made his way again into the 
 burning factory, to save a book of great value which he knew to be 
 in the office. He possessed himself of it, but at the risk of his life. 
 He presented a terrible sight, his features scarcely discernible. 
 When I arrived the doctors were changing his bandages, and the 
 poor lad's cries were heartrending, 
 
 I then called upon Yarnisheff, the Empress's Confessor. He lived 
 at Darmstadt, where he prepared the present Empress and the 
 Grand Duchess Sergius for their entrance into the Russian Church. 
 He is a dear old man, with a sweet face, and of great influence in 
 the Russian Court. 
 
 At the Baltic station, upon my leaving Petersburg, we had quite 
 a demonstration. A crowd was gathered outside. Upon the stone 
 stairway leading up to the booking-hall the railway officials stood 
 and saluted. On the steps of the portico a deputation of students 
 from the Academy ranged themselves. They uncovered as I passed, 
 and followed me to the train. Here a compartment had been 
 reserved for me in the Riga train. Quite a large gathering was 
 assembled upon the platform to wish me good-bye, consisting of 
 EngHsh merchants, residents, and Russian students from the 
 Academy. To these I addressed a few farewell words, which were 
 interpreted by Prince Andronikoff. I begged them to renieml)er 
 the unity of the Churches in their prayers, and then I blessed them. 
 They were most hearty in their response, pressing forward to kiss my
 
 26o CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1896 
 
 hand. As the train moved off, I stood at the open window and 
 raised my hand, the crowd waving their last farewells, and even 
 running along by the train in their exuberance of feeling. The 
 students then raised their hymn, " eh ttoWo. irrj Sea-n-ora " ; and this 
 was the last I saw and heard of these kind-hearted Russians as my 
 train moved out of the Baltic railway terminus on its way to Riga. 
 
 Upon my arrival at Riga I found that news of what had taken 
 place at Petersburg had travelled before me, and a crowd was on 
 the platform to see the English Bishop who had been so warmly 
 received by the ecclesiastics of the Orthodox Church in the capital. 
 
 I visited the Archbishop of Riga and Courland at his palace. 
 The dear old man came forward and kissed me thrice, as I also 
 kissed him. Then he kissed me on either shoulder, a mark of 
 special friendliness. He talked of what had passed in Petersburg, 
 and, of course, about the unity of the Churches, and of the good 
 feeling existing between the Russian and EngUsh Churches. He 
 told me that he had read in the papers of my doings in Petersburg, 
 and had taken special interest in the students' hearty welcome, 
 because he had been at one time Principal of the Academy. He 
 gave me some books in the Russian language, and a picture of 
 himself in his robes. Upon taking leave he expressed his intention 
 of being present at the confirmation the following day. The next 
 day he returned my call, but he was not at all well, and begged to 
 be excused attending the confirmation. 
 
 During my visit to Riga I was asked to cross into Courland and 
 take part in the opening of an English cotton factory ; all such 
 things being inaugurated with a reUgious service in Russia. News 
 of what had passed in Petersburg had spread into Courland, and 
 they wanted the English Bishop to give his Anglican blessing to the 
 undertaking. The Russian priest of the district performed the 
 service, the entire staff employed being present, managers, EngUsh 
 and Russian, and the workmen ; the Deputy-Governor of Riga was 
 also present — the governorship being vacant. At the conclusion of 
 the Russian service I said a prayer of dedication and pronounced 
 the Anglican benediction. The concourse of people was very large, 
 and all seemed much pleased at my having come to take part in the 
 proceedings. The service was followed by a public luncheon, about 
 100 being present. The most characteristic Russian dish was bear's- 
 paw soup, considered a great delicacy. We drank the Emperor of 
 Russia's health ; then that of the Queen of England and Empress of
 
 1896] PASSPORT TROUBLES 961 
 
 India. Then my health was proposed, and I had, of course, to 
 return thanks, when I took occasion to say that to know Russia and 
 the Russians, and to appreciate all their excellent (jualitics and kind- 
 hearted friendship, it was necessary to come and live in the country ; 
 that our countrymen who lived in Russia always S[)oke so warmly of 
 Russian kindness, hospitality, and friendship, and that it was only 
 those who did not know Russia who spoke hard things of her. This 
 was received with tremendous enthusiasm ; they were overflowinj^ in 
 their gratitude and appreciation. Mr. Carr, the manager of the factory, 
 told me that nothing of the kind had ever before been seen or 
 known, and he had lived in Russia for twenty-five years. 
 
 From Riga I went to Libau, confirmed, and held a reception. 
 From Libau I travelled via Moscheiky, joining the main line at 
 Koshkedari, whence I proceeded to Wirballen on the frontier. At 
 the railway stations in this " country of vast and dreary distances " 
 — as Dobson, the Times correspondent calls Russia — are always 
 to be seen a motley set of travellers, not a few from Eastern 
 districts with faces of dark and evil type, such as one would not 
 care to be left alone with in out-of-the-way regions — some in costly 
 furs, others in dirty, greasy sheepskins. One's eye keeps guard 
 instinctively upon one's baggage. At Wirballen our passports were 
 taken from us. I had travelled with two young Germans. When 
 the passport of one of them was brought back the official told him 
 it was not in order, and that he must be detained in one of the 
 little cells above the great station till he could clear himself. He 
 looked very pale and dismal as he was walked away, saying to his 
 friend in German, that he hoped to meet him in Berlin. He had 
 stayed last at Riga, and it was the Riga police who had to be com- 
 municated with. I little thought that in 1905 I should myself be 
 an inmate of such a cell, as will be related in its place. 
 
 I travelled from Gumbinnen, a German fortress near the frontier, 
 with a young German officer who had lately been to India. He 
 was delighted with all he had seen, and most eloquent upon its 
 wonders ; turning to me with a mischievously arch look, he con- 
 cluded his glowing description by saying, " And Russia wants to get 
 it all." " She won't get it just yet," I replied. 
 
 Upon reaching 15crlin I was met by the Ambassador's carriage, 
 and drove to the Embassy, where I was the guest of Sir F. and 
 Lady Lascelles. The Empress Frederick had expressed a wish that 
 I should visit her " Governesses' Home " with Sir Frank, so we went
 
 262 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1896 
 
 and inspected it. Then to the palace of the Empress Frederick, 
 who wished to see me. She had much to say, upon all sorts of 
 subjects. The Armenian atrocities — which were just then a 
 European and Asiatic topic. None of the Powers, she said, except 
 England seemed to care for the poor Armenians. She told me 
 that she had read of my doings in Petersburg. "But," she said, 
 "why did you visit the tomb of Alexander Nevski?" I told her 
 that it was the inevitably right thing to do in visiting the Metro- 
 politan. Why should we not visit the tomb of a good man and 
 say a silent prayer at it ? I had done the same in visiting that of 
 the Emperor Frederick. Then about Prince Henry of Batten- 
 berg's death, which she spoke of as such a terribly sudden blow, and 
 so unexpected ; he was so much better and supposed to be doing 
 well. I told Her Majesty that African fever was very deadly in 
 some cases, that I had many attacks of it in Africa, and one was 
 never perhaps altogether the same afterwards. She told me she 
 was going to Athens, and would join our Queen at Cimiez. Then 
 she opened upon the Jameson raid and the Transvaal troubles. 
 " You can't think what I have suffered through all this time ; it has 
 been dreadful." I said I had often thought of and felt for her. 
 Speaking highly of Rhodes, she asked why his friend had dis- 
 owned him. I asked what friend. She hesitated, and I asked if 
 she meant Hoffmeyer. She said yes. She told me that when 
 Kruger was in Berlin a few years before she declined to see him. 
 
 Telling the Empress of my visit to Gotha, and of the kindness of 
 the Duke and Duchess, also of the " Schlosschen " he had given and 
 fitted up for our service, she said that he had told her about it, and 
 how nice it all was. She then asked how long I stayed in Berlin, 
 because she wanted me to come and dine. I said it was not pos- 
 sible, as I was leaving shortly, and all my evenings were engaged. 
 She expressed a wish that I should visit her at Kronberg, as she had 
 so often asked me to do. I said I would when next at Frankfurt. 
 She seemed never weary of talking about England. It was always 
 dear England and what might be passing there. " I shall be at the 
 confirmation to-morrow, certainly," were her parting words as she 
 came out with me into the corridor. She was always most con- 
 siderate, friendly, and kind. I never saw her again. She fell into 
 ill-health, which increased till the terribly painful end came. I met 
 at dinner at the Embassy all the attaches, Lords Granville, Dering, 
 Seymour, Colonel Grier, the new Military Attache. Lady Lascelles,
 
 '896] MOZART'S VIOLIN 263 
 
 who knows Russia and Persia— Sir Frank having been accredited 
 there— was full of information about those countries. Sir Frank 
 regretted that I had not arrived at the Embassy two days sooner, as 
 the Emperor came in the evening and talked over the Jameson Raid 
 and the historic telegram, discussing the whole affair for some two 
 or three hours. The Empress Frederick was present at the con- 
 firmation, according to promise. 
 
 Upon leaving Berlin I went to Dresden, where the usual work of 
 preaching, confirming, and attending receptions awaited me. At a 
 concert in Dresden I was shown a violin which had belonged to 
 Mozart. It came to the conductor of the concert through I^uter- 
 bach, the composer, and is dated 1675. 
 
 From Dresden I travelled through to England via the Hook of 
 Holland.
 
 CHAPTER XXIV 
 
 Lord Dufferin's last state banquet at Paris — One who knows the world and 
 everything in it — The Astronomer Royal of the Cape — Consecration of the 
 Church of SS. George and Boniface, Freiburg — Tenth Conference at Vienna 
 — Visit to Sir Edmund Monson at the Embassy — Millennium celebration at 
 Buda-Pesth — An indescribable pageant — The busy Danube — Professor Ilerzl, 
 the Zionist — Salzburg and the Konigsee — Christiania — Nansen's return from 
 the North Pole — Ibsen — Bishop of Christiania invites to his ordination — The 
 architectural region of Norway — Telemarken, the Dalen Canal, Kirkebo — 
 Norwegian stabburs — Frederichsborg slot — A gem of architecture — Blok's 
 pictures — Visit to Sir Charles and Lady Scott at the Legation, Copenhagen — 
 Bernstorf — Princess of Wales at the English church in Copenhagen — Visit to 
 the Osborne. 
 
 ON 19 May I crossed to Paris, confirming at Havre en route. 
 Passing through Paris to Chantilly, I confirmed there, and 
 then 'returned to Paris, where confirmation work again. On the 
 Queen's birthday Lord Dufferin gave a state banquet. It was his 
 last, and loud were the regrets that it should be so. A good many 
 of the guests were in uniform and diplomatic dress. Right and 
 left of our host sat Lord Anglesey and myself Lord Dufferin was 
 an ideal host, knew the world, everybody and everything in it, and 
 could talk and tell you all about it : India, Russia, Turkey, Egypt, 
 Canada, and other countries and posts in which he had served. One 
 almost wondered how all the orders and decorations he wore could 
 find space upon his gold-laced diplomatic coat. 
 
 We dined in the great banqueting room, the table being crowded 
 with his treasures from all parts of the world ; down the centre ran 
 a piece of plate set with three enormous candelabra. Lord Dufferin 
 told me the history of this colossal structure. When he went up to 
 " High Latitudes," Prince Napoleon, who was also navigating those 
 regions in the " Reine Hortense," was helpful to him. In return he 
 gave the Prince a four-barrelled rifle, then a rare weapon, which cost 
 him three hundred guineas. When the Empire came to an end, and 
 the Prince had to part with much that he possessed. Lord Dufferin 
 
 264
 
 1896J THE ASTRONOMER ROYAL OF THE CAI'E 2(>s 
 
 found this rifle at Christie's in London, and got it back for a mere 
 trifle. He also found these three massive candelabra and stands, 
 and bought them. Retiring as he now was from the service he s;ud 
 they would be of no use to him. 
 
 Lord DufTerin quite agreed with me as to the Jameson Raid bcin^ 
 an outrageous act. He thought, however, that the Germans not only 
 had their eye upon the Transvaal, but upon the whole of South 
 Africa. It was his opinion that Lord Carnarvon made a mistake in 
 annexing the Transvaal w/ien he did, that he was too quick about it. 
 *' It is a snare we are all apt to fall into who possess power. We arc 
 tempted to force an action lest a change of ministry or our own 
 circumstances alter, and so the opportunity of acting while in office 
 is lost." The only two toasts after dinner were " The Queen " and 
 the " President of the French Republic," but no word in either case 
 was spoken. 
 
 Lord Dufferin introduced me to the Astronomer Royal of the 
 Cape, Mr. Gill, a Scotchman, an out and-out Imperialist; he knew 
 Sir Bartle Frere well, and saw him off from Cape Town when re- 
 called. He was with him also the day before he died. He was, of 
 course, entirely on Sir Bartle's side, and very strong for British 
 supremacy in South Africa. Gladstone and his party he spoke of with 
 the deepest indignation. But so do all colonists throughout the 
 world. He struck down at once upon our errors in dealing with the 
 Transvaal. First, Shcpstone, the Secretary for Native Affairs, being 
 sent as Commissioner to Pretoria, which was an insult to the Boers, 
 treating them as natives. And, secondly, sending Lanyon, who did 
 not understand them. A shrewd, sharp, able man this Astronomer 
 Royal, who knew every question we touched upon, and how they 
 ought to have been grappled with, instead of muddled and culpably 
 mismanaged. He spoke of it all most bitterly, its fearful cost in 
 men and money, and worse than all, the loss of national prestige. 
 What would he have said of our far more fearful losses when twenty 
 years later we had to bring the whole strength and power of the 
 British Empire to bear upon the doing of it all over again ! 
 
 From Paris I went to Freiburg and consecrated the church of 
 SS. George and Boniface. Upon arrival at Baden I found a 
 telegram awaiting me from the Grand Duchess, asking if I couM go 
 and see her at Carlsruhe. I replied that I was only at Baden for a 
 very short time, and had engagements, upon which another telegram 
 came saying that Her Royal Highness was coming to Baden and
 
 266 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1896 
 
 would await me by a certain train in the royal waiting-rooms at the 
 station. My train, however, was very late, and when I reached 
 Baden found an official waiting for me to say that the Grand 
 Duchess stayed some time, and had been obliged to go into the 
 town to keep an engagement. Upon arrival at the church for con- 
 firmation a messenger met me to say that the Grand Duchess was at 
 the Prince's house not far off, and expecting me, but as the congrega- 
 tion was already assembled for the service I could not go. 
 
 From Baden I went to Heidelberg and confirmed, and thence to 
 Vienna for the Conference. There is no better view of beautiful 
 Salzburg than that obtained in crossing the railway bridge which 
 spans the Salsam immediately before entering the station In the 
 station yard stood two engines, one named " Stephenson," the other 
 " Newton." You will not find such national compliments in 
 Germany. Melk, on the Danube, is magnificently situated. It 
 stands upon a high rocky promontory, absolutely hanging over the 
 swirling volume of waters, and crowned by an enormous three- 
 domed cathedral, with conventual buildings surrounding it. At this 
 point the banks of the Danube become so rocky and precipitous — 
 as the river enters a dark gorge — that the railway, unable longer to 
 follow its course, turns abruptly inland, and it is seen no more. 
 
 I found the Embassy carriage awaiting me, with the jdger on 
 the platform, in his green dress, cocked hat and feathers, this 
 functionary being a speciality of the British Embassy in the Amster- 
 dam capital, attending certain arrivals. When the officials asked 
 Professor Hechler who His Excellency was expecting, and were told 
 it was the English Bishop, the said officials saluted as I left the 
 train and passed to the carriage, for in Austria a bishop is an 
 important personage. Sir Edmund and Lady Monson very kindly 
 put the Embassy at our disposal for the Conference, and a very 
 delightful time we had under their most splendidly hospitable roof. 
 The Austrian Government sent the Minister of Education to repre- 
 sent itself, and all was right well and vice-royally done. Lord Halifax 
 was to have been with us to read a paper, but was detained in 
 London owing to the passage of his Divorce Bill through the House 
 of Lords. Our Ambassador has to keep up more state here in 
 Vienna than is observed in any of the other capitals of Europe. 
 His carriages, state coach, horses, and stabling are all in accentuated 
 vice-regal style. Sir Edmund was going to Buda-Pesth to attend the 
 Millennium of the kingdom of Hungary. He was taking his state
 
 1896] MILLENNIUM AT BUDA-PESTH 267 
 
 coach for the procession, and asked mc to accompany him. I'.ui ;is 
 it would be a very long affair, and the weather was intensely hot, 1 
 decided not to go with the Ambassador, but to see it from a window 
 secured by my Hungarian friends with whom I should be staying, 
 I could then get away when I had had enough of it. 
 
 I left Vienna for Buda-Pesth on 3 June. Hungary consists of a 
 vast central alluvial plain, bounded on all sides by mountains, and 
 in summer is very hot. The route lies in part along the Danube, 
 one of the finest points being Gran Nana, situated upon a high 
 rock, with its cathedral and castle looking down upon the river. 
 Here in this castle lives the Archbishop, who is a great man in 
 Hungary. My host and hostess at Buda-Pesth were Mr. and Mrs. 
 Plotenyi, he a Hungarian, she Scotch. 
 
 The change in passing from Austria to Hungary is complete 
 and absolute. German, and everything German, is left behind 
 at Presburg, or Pozony as the natives call it, for, like the 
 Welsh, they have their own names for all their towns ; every- 
 thing is strictly and severely Magyar. These people are Huns 
 from Central Asia, and will own no affinity with either Germans 
 or Russians. There was an exhibition being held in Buda-Pesth, 
 the park at the end of the Andrassy Strasse being a world of 
 exhibition buildings and kiosks. Munkdcsy's " Ecce Homo," which 
 he left to his native city, has a building all to itself. Pilate leads 
 the Saviour into an open portico, and presents him to the howling 
 crowd gathered slightly below in a courtyard of the Judgment Hall. 
 Some faces of the frenzied Jews as they cry " Crucify Him " form 
 an excellent contrast with the stern inflexibility of the Romans. 
 
 A grand view is obtained from the main bridge over the Danube 
 up the river and down to the Margerita Island. The climb up the 
 rocky height on the Buda side to the palace, fortress, and old city 
 is very precipitous, the zigzag being long and tedious. From the 
 top a very extensive panorama lies around. The Danube flows at 
 one's feet ; on the other side lies the immense and rapidly increas- 
 ing city of Pesth, spreading itself out into the far distance; and 
 beyond again, the distant hills. Buda consists of the fortress, 
 palace, and old city, much probably as it was when the Turks 
 held it, which they did for near a century— Pesth is the nuxlern 
 but far larger city. A church on the heights of Buda now stands 
 where a Turkish mosque stood during the Mohammedan occupa- 
 tion. Temporary wooden stands were erected everywhere for the
 
 268 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1896 
 
 hundreds of thousands of spectators to view the procession of the 
 deputies in their national dresses from all parts and provinces of 
 the kingdom of Hungary. The sacred crown of St. Stephen had 
 been brought with great pomp from its home — which, I believe, is 
 in Pesth — and had been deposited in this church on the heights of 
 Buda, to be carried on the following Monday in the Millennium 
 procession. 
 
 The Hungarian dress is quaint and Eastern ; the coachmen wear 
 a profusion of metal ornaments, thickly bestrewing their breasts, 
 their hats black and braided, with feather -plumes flying behind. 
 Gorgeous four-in-hands and thousands of carriages were ever crowd- 
 ing along the great Andrassy Strasse to the park and exhibition, for 
 the Hungarians are great in horses and equipages, and drive at 
 break-neck speed. The horses have no collars, the draft being a 
 broad leather band across the breast, the harness and trappings 
 a blaze of metal. The breed is between Arab and English ; every- 
 thing English is affected and in much repute. The green, red, and 
 white flag of Hungary is displayed everywhere, with the name of 
 their great patriot Kossuth, whom they call Kosciuski, emblazoned 
 on it. Hungarians put the surname first thus, Kanolky A., Kiralfy 
 Henry, and so forth. Count Esterhazy, the great sporting and 
 racing man of Hungary — whose stables are at Potin near by — was 
 at the time of my visit fitting up an Anglican chapel for the Eng- 
 lish stablemen and jockeys. This, for a Roman, is very liberal. 
 Three Hungarian bands played amongst the exhibition buildings in 
 the park, discoursing their rapid and accurately accentuated music, 
 which makes Hungarians the most finished instrumentalists in 
 Europe. 
 
 I grudged being within thirty hours of Constantinople and unable 
 to go there, but it was not to be. I confirmed in our church-room 
 at the Hotel Hungaria, very noisy just now and full to overflowing 
 with princes, ambassadors, and great folks assembled for the 
 Millennium. As I stood at the service I looked out upon the great 
 river rolling by on its way to the Black Sea, covered with steamers 
 plying slowly and laboriously up and swiftly down the current, with 
 the heights of Buda beyond. The decorated streets were thronged 
 and packed with all sorts and conditions of people, of strange type 
 in face and dress, Bosnians, Herzegovinians, Croatians, Montene- 
 grins, Servians, Albanians, Roumanians, Bulgarians, Roumelians, 
 Turks, quite wonderful. Mr. Greville, our Charge d' Affaires, called
 
 1896] A WONDERFUL PAGEANT 269 
 
 on the morning of the procession, and reporting Sir Edmund 
 Monson's arrival from Vienna, repeated the invitation to go with 
 him in his state coach as part of the procession to the palace. I 
 declined again, as the heat was terrible, and the proceedings would 
 last all day. 
 
 Early on 8 June we went across to Buda by steamer. On the 
 Danube boats one sees all nationalities, being the highway f(;r trade 
 to and from the south-eastern states and provinces; some of these 
 pedlars are literally hung round with goods and chattels for sale ; 
 quaint sticks, pipes, sHppers, knives, trinkets of many sorts, colours, 
 shapes, and devices. Hungarian mothers carry their babies wrapped 
 in the shape of small cyUnders, only their faces exposed. A half- 
 wild shepherd clad in skins, from some remote country, stood near 
 me and made a good foreground to the rest of the bizarre and 
 motley crowd. We had an excellent window in Buda from which 
 to view the pageant, just above the Danube bridge. Ninety 
 provinces and principal towns in Hungary sent their (juota of 
 representatives, the larger provinces and towns sending fifty or sixty, 
 the smaller less, down to fifteen or so. 
 
 First came the royal state coaches with the royalties — Emperor 
 and Empress, archdukes and archduchesses, etc. ; then the 
 ambassadors in all their vice-regal state ; then the representatives of 
 the provinces and towns, each company marshalled by heralds in 
 gorgeous dresses ; then the representatives themselves on horseback, 
 many being great nobles. The dresses were not imitations of the 
 ancient and various national costumes as one might suppose, but 
 real ; and nothing could be more costly and gorgeous. The English 
 newspaper correspondents — who had lately come from the corona- 
 tion at Moscow— owned that this pageant was beyond their powers 
 of description ; and so it was. Furs of all kinds of animals, 
 leopard, wolf, bear, boar, etc. Whole skins of wild beasts, velvets, 
 cloths of gold; jewelled chains, reins, bridles, saddles, saddle-cloths; 
 eagles' feathers, ornaments of person, and caparisoning of horses ; 
 miles, hours of this wild, stately, savage, and semi-civiUzed magnifi- 
 cence, till the mind and eye became so wearied that one longed for 
 the end. It must be remembered that each of the ninety provinces 
 and cities would have been a smaller pageant complete in itself; 
 each such section, quite separate and apart from the rest, defiled 
 past as a distinct company of representatives, in its own peculiar 
 national costume and ornamentations. Croatians, Transylvanians,
 
 270 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1896 
 
 Dalmatians, Bosnians, Herzegovinians, Galicians, Carinthians, Car- 
 pathians, etc. And then the cities and towns vying with each in 
 magnificence, splendour, and wealth. The rear was brought up 
 by the archbishops', bishops', and cardinals' carriages. 
 
 The getting back to Andrassy Strasse when all was over would be 
 almost as difficult to describe as the pageant itseL. It was quite as 
 difficult also to get back to Vienna. I had to stand in the corridor 
 the whole way in dust and heat intolerable. 
 
 The Hungarian peasants wear very wide trousers, which give the 
 appearance of petticoats ; when they wish to get rid of these for 
 work they tuck them up to the knees, looking like Bulgarians and 
 Turks with their bare legs and feet. The acreage of the farms 
 must be enormous. Gangs of hundreds — men, women, and 
 children — are seen weeding the crops, all gaily attired, for the 
 Hungarian loves colour, notably red. I saw one perfect picture of 
 Hungarian peasant life : a sort of gipsy, attired in old, faded, but 
 many-coloured dress, mostly brown, a mass of strange trappings 
 hanging all around him ; he carried a curious old heavy fowling- 
 piece, and over his head — by a curious chance, and completing the 
 wild picture — hovered a buzzard. At the frontier station the same 
 Hungarian gipsy band which had welcomed us into Hungary on the 
 downward journey was playing on the platform to welcome us back 
 again. 
 
 Upon my return to Vienna I met Professor Hertzel, the Zionist, 
 who was forming a scheme to lead the Jews back to Palestine, and 
 who afterwards made for himself a considerable name in the world 
 as the head of the Zionist movement. His scheme was that of a 
 company, with a capital sum of ;(^i,ooo,ooo, with which to purchase 
 land and colonize Palestine. I talked with him of his book, A 
 Jewish State, which I had read. He did not seem to like my 
 speaking of his scheme as a "commercial affair," which, of course, it 
 is. He insisted upon its being a political and national movement. 
 I further told him that it seemed to me that his remarks upon the 
 Jewish labour test question were involved and likely to be misunder- 
 stood. Professor Hechler, who was sitting by, turned to Professor 
 Hertzel and said, " The Bishop has read your book with some care, 
 you see." He replied that his language might appear obscure in 
 English, but not in German. He was Paris correspondent of the 
 Wiener Neue Freie Presse. I wished him success, if it should be 
 desirable that he should succeed in his scheme, and we parted. I
 
 1896] THE KONIGSEK 27, 
 
 fancied he thought me too outspoken, though we became more 
 agreed and friendly towards the end of our discussion. 
 
 On my way from Vienna I stayed at Salzburg, which is Ix^utifuUy 
 situated in the midst of its encircling snow mountains, the fortress on 
 its precipitous rock — the Miinchburg — crowning all, the Salsam 
 flowing through the midst of the city, and separating the Miinchburg 
 from the Capuchinen-burg. 
 
 From Salzburg I went to Berchtesgarten, and the Konigsee, along 
 which I boated to St. Bartolmy, through the finest piece of lake 
 scenery in the world. There is no shore — the mountains plunging 
 precipitously into the lake, which is 1000 feet deep, and of an 
 exquisite green. St. Bartolmy is the one solitary, lonesome, in- 
 habited little spot at the far end of the lake, and consists only of a 
 church of onion-domed, Eastern type, a big, rambling, old religious 
 house, now a farmstead where food and lodging can be had, and an 
 aviary containing two fine golden eagles. Into Sl Bartolmy — 
 which is only accessible by water, there is no road — we were driven 
 by one of those sudden and violent storms which make this lake so 
 dangerous. It prevented our going on to the Ubersee. We were 
 glad to get back, for the lake is very dangerous at such times, as the 
 crosses and inscriptions upon the rocks at various points sufficiently 
 indicate. 
 
 From Berchtesgarten I travelled via Gastein, ZoU am Sec, and 
 Innsbruck, through the heart of the Austrian Tyrol, and thence by the 
 Vor Arlberg to Zurich. Almost every house in this part of the 
 Tyrol has its little carved-hood bell turret for ringing, I suppose, 
 when the inmates are out in a dark night upon the mountains. At 
 Zurich I preached and confirmed, and settled matters connected 
 with the new church. 
 
 I then went on to Lausanne for confirmation. At I^ausanne I 
 met Admiral Boys, whose ship, the Philomel, was for some years on 
 the Zanzibar station, where he saw much of Bishop Steere and the 
 work of the Universities Mission. When his ship, the Northumber- 
 land, was at Kiel, the Emperor told him that nothing had ever 
 gratified him more than being made an English admiral. Admiral 
 Boys lowered the English flag upon the occasion, and hoisted the 
 German, which pleased the Emperor much. 
 
 From Lausanne I returned direct to England via Tans and 
 
 Dieppe. 
 
 On 28 August I left Tilbury Docks in the Kollo for Christiania,
 
 272 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1896 
 
 and on Sunday, the 30th, put into Christiansund. It nestles, as all 
 Scandinavian seaports, amongst and upon rocky islets and wooded 
 inlets. The cathedral we found filled to overflowing, the Bishop 
 preaching in purple robes, ruff, and pectoral cross. Two enormous 
 candlesticks and candles stood lighted for the celebration, the 
 celebrant wearing a chasuble. The cathedral is a poor modern 
 building, the original having been destroyed by fire. The railway 
 to Skien makes slow progress, only eight miles as yet ; hard granite 
 rocks and harder financial times concur to retard the work. 
 
 A day and a night at sea brought us to Christiania. The Museum 
 of Northern Antiquities here — though not nearly so fine as that at 
 Copenhagen — is interesting ; the carved doorways of ancient Stave 
 kirks are fine ; also altar-pieces, triptychs, and other church furni- 
 ture; ecclesiastical silver crosses, sacred spoons, rings, etc., for the 
 Scandinavians then, as now, were great workers in silver. The flint 
 and stone axes and arrow-heads representing the Stone Age are in 
 enormous quantities. 
 
 All Norway was in excitement over Nansen's return from the 
 North Pole, and great preparations were in course to welcome him 
 home, the King coming from Stockholm for the occasion. Nansen's 
 brother and sister are members of our Church. 
 
 In the gardens around the reservoir above the city are a large 
 number of meteoric stones. They are placed beside the walks, and 
 are in shape like large, slightly flattened cannon-balls. I suppose 
 they fall here in greater numbers than in other parts of Europe, 
 and falling upon the rocky granite surfaces which cover Scandinavia, 
 are not buried and lost. Many are cracked and split in their fall. 
 
 Ibsen, the Norwegian dramatist, was at the Grand Hotel, where I 
 was staying, and was the lion amongst the guests. The cemetery 
 here is well kept, and planted with flowers and shrubs ; nearly every 
 grave has a little garden-bench by it. The monuments are good, 
 and the inscriptions, many of them, very touching. 
 
 The Consul-General, Mr. Mitchell, called, as did also the Bishop 
 of Christiania. He spoke German, but no English. He wanted 
 me to stay over Sunday, to be present at an ordination, but this I 
 was unable to do. I confirmed in our pretty little church, built in 
 somewhat Norwegian style. On the Pipervik Nansen was to land 
 from the Fram, and banks of seats were being erected at that point 
 to accommodate the spectators. I was glad to renew my acquaint- 
 ance with the Viking ship, and the quaint old Norwegian church
 
 1896] A NORWEGIAN WELCOMK 273 
 
 and buildings at Oscarshal already described. We rowed across to 
 the island of Hovedo, upon which are ruins of a cruciform church 
 and conventual buildings, very rare in Scandinavia. Monks from 
 Lincoln are said to have raised these buildings, and brought with 
 them bones of the East Anglian saint, Edmund, king and martyr. 
 Some of his bones are said to be on the island of Funcn at 
 Odensee, in Denmark, for the Scandinavians, having killed him at 
 Hoxne, in Suffolk, when heathen, venerated greatly his memory 
 when they became Christians. 
 
 After doing my work at Christiania I went into Telcmarken by 
 the Dalen Canal, which makes its way by four large locks froni Skien 
 into the Nordssovand, and so to Ulefoss, where I slept. Ulcfoss 
 has a waterfall, and a small, rough inn. The " welcome " accorded 
 at an out-of-the-way Norwegian inn is not particularly gushing. No 
 one takes any notice of you whatever. Can you have a bedroom ? 
 A long, vacant stare, as much as to say, " What do you want to come 
 bothering here for ? " You repeat the question, and a big " ja " is 
 jerked out as the frau turns her back and goes on with her work 
 You find your way upstairs, and choose your room by yourself. 
 Then down again. Can you have food ? Another vacant stare and 
 almost injured look, as much as to say, " What do you want food 
 for ? " Then another big " ja," and if you wait long enough — a 
 space varying from one to two hours — the table is spread with half a 
 dozen cheeses, tinned fish, sardines, eggs, and tea ; never more than 
 that, rarely less ; for this, with a bed and breakfast of exactly the 
 same food, you are charged three shillings. Ex utio disce omnes, so 
 far as Scandinavian inns — I can't call them hotels — and their food 
 are concerned. The only features on the Dalen Canal are its 
 locks, the largest series being where it mounts the heights from 
 which the really grand Vrangfos falls into a black, deep, rocky 
 gorge. The dam and engineering works here are as fine as anything 
 of the kind in Europe. The gorge into which this mass of water 
 from the Telemarken lakes falls was discovered to be so profound 
 that its bottom could not be reached. An arch had to be thrown 
 across it, which stands under the raging waters, and carries the 
 mighty dam of stone. Walks, well laid out, climb alongside the 
 falls and locks, and enable passengers to enjoy a pleasant stroll m 
 waiting for the steamer to pass through. The P'raavand is next 
 reached, and then the Hveitvand, upon which is the little village of 
 Kirkebo, our destination. It is entered by a very pretty passage 
 T
 
 74 
 
 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1896 
 
 between wooded hills, spanned by a rough wooden drawbridge which 
 carries the main road across from Arendal to North Telemarken. 
 
 Here with my son I enjoyed, what I so rarely get abroad, a quiet, 
 restful week. From this point we wandered about on foot, discover- 
 ing several picturesque old farm buildings and carved barns, called 
 " stabburs," for Telemarken is the architectural region of Norway 
 One day we fell in with an intelligent young farmer, speaking 
 German, but little EngHsh. He told me that he liked Shakespeare 
 and Captain Marryat's books. He didn't care for French books, he 
 called them " smucktische," but liked Chateaubriand. The two 
 finest " stabburs " in this neighbourhood are at the Lundeval farm. 
 The carving from a little distance looks quite Arabesque, and soft as 
 satin-wood. The view from Brunkeberg, the church of this district 
 — and they are indeed few and far between — situated above Kirkebo 
 on the high road to Odde, and the Hardanger, is worth the time if you 
 have nothing better to do. We walked there because it was Sunday, 
 and was probably the only church within fifty miles. Our own service 
 we said upon an old sledge pulled off the road amongst the bushes. 
 As some Norwegians passed, I heard them say, lowering their voices 
 to a respectful minor, " they are sontaging." 
 
 The Sunday dress of the Telemarken girls is bright and pretty. 
 The front of the jacket — a breast-piece — is worked over with silk 
 flowers of varied colours upon a black ground. 
 
 The prettiest point in the neighbourhood of Kirkebo is reached 
 by boat to the drawbridge already mentioned, thence the walk 
 across the wooded promontory to the Scarpstrom ferry, whence the 
 views down the Fraavand are beautiful. An abrupt rock wooded 
 island lies at the end of the Vand, upon which one small solitary 
 house stands, crouching under a little amphitheatre of rock. Here 
 on this promontory, between the drawbridge and the ferry, an hotel 
 would do well, not perhaps just now, but later on, when this part of 
 Telemarken is better known. Now is the time to buy woods and 
 rocks all round. It must become an important point before many 
 years, and a sharp far-sighted man might make a good investment of 
 a small sum for future gain. At present the inhabitants of the few 
 wooden huts, scattered at long intervals, alone enjoy the beautiful 
 scenery of this profound quiet. The view nearly opposite Kirkebo, 
 from a spot called Gustavstein, is the next best point for an artist. 
 
 One morning during our stay our landlord's son and other boys 
 went out early upon the Vand, bringing back a grand box of very
 
 '^96] DENMARK ,^5 
 
 large trout. Upon these, with wild fruits and hunks cut daily off 
 an ox, which hung in the back part of the inn, 7/r— and indeed so 
 far as the ox is concerned the village of Kirkcho— lived. The 
 natives came and cut their hunks daily till the bea.st, by the lime wc 
 left, was becoming fast a skeleton. My son, who was with me. 
 boated and fished daily with our landlord's son, and they were 
 exceedingly happy in their friendship, one speaking not a word of 
 English, the other not a word of Nonvegian, and yet the noise they 
 made in that boat upon the Hveitvand, each in his own language, 
 will not soon be forgotten at Kirkebo. 
 
 From this Robinson Crusoe retreat I went back to civilization 
 and Copenhagen by crossing the Christiania Fiord from Horton— 
 the winter station of the Norwegian fleet— to Moss, and so down 
 the coast by railway towards Denmark. Nansen had just passed 
 Horton in the Fram on his way up to Christiania as we crossed, and 
 we missed him again. Spending a few hours at Trollliatten to see 
 the falls once more, we continued our journey along the wild shores 
 of the Cattegat and Sound to Helsingborg, across to Elsinore, and 
 so to Fredensborg, which I wanted to see again, now .so quiet, 
 so different from when I last saw it, empty of its royalties, and in 
 profound stillness. I went all over the beautiful shore-bound 
 grounds, and then on to Fredericksborg to see the castle. This is 
 quite the most magnificent building of its kind in Europe, exquisitely 
 unique. The spires all diverse in style, and most graceful. The 
 slot is surrounded by a moat and lake, which washes its walls. The 
 castle-yards are large, the rooms grand and beautiful, and apparently 
 endless. No mere palace this of ordinary construction ; a very- 
 gem of architecture throughout, and strictly Danish. One room — 
 the Knights' Hall — except the three halls of the Kremlin, the finest 
 I ever saw. But they cannot be compared, each style being sui 
 generis. Here in the chapel are Bloks' twenty-three pictures. They 
 are in one of the little royal closets in a gallery overlooking the 
 chapel from the west end. These are alone worth a visit to 
 Fredericksborg. The gardens, parks, and lakes surrounding the 
 slot would, without the wealth of architecture, interest, and beauty, 
 make this a charming place in which to spend a (juiet autumnal 
 week. 
 
 From Fredericksborg we finished our journey at Copenhagen, 
 where we were again the guests of our Ambassador, Sir Charles and 
 Lady Scott. One day during my stay at Copenhagen I drove out to
 
 276 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1896 
 
 Bernstorf Castle with Lady Scott, and wrote my name in the King 
 and Queens book, and also in those of the Emperor and Empress 
 of Russia and the Prince and Princess of Wales. Bernstorf is very 
 pretty and quiet, in the midst of the endless beech woods which 
 abound in Denmark. We drove back through Klampenborg Park, 
 returning along the Sound. As we passed the harbour the Pole 
 Star and Czarevfia were lying at anchor as usual during the stay of 
 the Russian Imperial Family in Denmark. A dinner party at the 
 Embassy on our return from Bernstorf concluded the day, Com- 
 mander Roxby, of the Osborne, Mr. Ford, son of Sir Clare Ford, one 
 of the attaches, and Princess Kudasheff, a clever, pleasant woman, 
 being amongst the guests. 
 
 On the Sunday I went to the church with Sir Charles Scott and 
 the Legation staff, where we received the Princess of Wales and 
 Princess Victoria ; a large concourse of Danes was gathered outside, 
 as usual on these occasions. The Princess had driven in from 
 Bernstorf with the Czar and Czarina who, in another carriage, had 
 gone to the Russian church which we had passed, surrounded by a 
 great crowd of Danes waiting to see them, this being their first visit 
 to Denmark since their coronation. Upon alighting from her 
 carriage the Princess of Wales with Princess Victoria and their suite 
 passed into the narthex, where we were assembled to receive her. 
 She came and greeted us as usual, with her ever pleasant smile, ex- 
 pressing a hope that she was in good time. It was the harvest 
 festival, and the church was packed, as was also the narthex, and 
 many were unable to gain admission. About fifty of the officers 
 and men of the Osborne were present. 
 
 In the afternoon I confirmed, two of Sir Charles and Lady Scott's 
 daughters being among the candidates. After the service we went 
 out to the Osborne with Commander Roxby. The officers' quarters 
 and cabins are very nice, as were also those of Prince Albert Victor 
 and Prince George. Princess Maud's and Victoria's cabins are now, 
 since the former's marriage, made into one. The cabins are lined 
 with chintz, and the walls filled with photographs. The Prince and 
 Princess of Wales's rooms, very pretty indeed, the best of course. 
 His little study, sitting-room and bedroom all en suite, and beyond 
 the Princess's bedroom, her " dresser's " room, i.e. the room of her 
 Lady of the Bedchamber. This room was fitted with drawers and 
 wardrobes. The stern of the vessel was entirely occupied by the 
 drawing-room, and luxuriously furnished with lounge and other
 
 '^96] HAMBURG ,-- 
 
 chairs, sofas, settees, tables, plants, etc. The saloon in whi.;h wc 
 lunched at that memorable gathering of crowned heads in 1887 I 
 looked at again with much interest. The chief guest upon that 
 occasion, the Czar Alexander III, was gone. Commander Roxhy 
 had been with the Prince and Princess sixteen years. He took the 
 two Princes when boys in the Bellerop/ion upon their cruise, when 
 they left the Britannia. The officers, all [)icked men of course. 
 Commander Roxby, Lord (^ifford, Lambton (Lord Durham's 
 brother), etc., all most pleasant. 
 
 On Monday, 14 September, we left Copenhagen in company with 
 Mr. Lumley, a Queen's messenger, who has travelled far and seen 
 much. He served in the Franco-German War, and was in all the 
 great battles. He was also in the Austrian army and later in the 
 Zulu campaign — knowing all my old Zulu haunts. Crossing by 
 Gjedser and Warnemunde to Rostock we made our way to Ham- 
 burg. The route lies by the north end of the Schwcrin Liike and 
 Liibeck. As the train passes round the city one gets a fair view 
 of its many spires. The station is close to one of the grand old 
 gateways — massive, solid, and surmounted by tw(i thick stumpy 
 spirelettes. 
 
 At Hamburg I was the guest of the ever-hospitable Mr. and Mrs. 
 Chaplin, who, as so many other good continental friends, have 
 sheltered me frequently under their kindly roof. Here I held two 
 confirmations, one for our own candidates, the other in German for 
 the Jewish candidates. Hamburg is a grand city : the houses, 
 villas, and gardens round the Alster Lake, extending for some three 
 or four miles, form a unique district facing the water, inhabited by 
 wealthy merchants and business men. The new Rathhaus is a great 
 success. It consists of a long magnificently carved front, sur- 
 mounted by tower and spire of much dignity, spires always pre- 
 dominating all the world over in low-lying cities and countries. 
 
 From Hamburg I travelled into Holland by Osnabriick, an old- 
 world city worth a few hours. It boasts a cathedral with two fine 
 towers capped, a western tower and lantern ; also three uther fine 
 churches with lofty spires. The fourth church is set along \x\ioxx 
 one side with gabled chapels. The style is Romanischc. The old 
 round towers and bastions upon the city walls remind one of 
 Nuremberg. At Amsterdam I confirmed, returning to England 
 by the Hook of Holland.
 
 CHAPTER XXV 
 
 Victoria Home for Aged English Women in Paris— " Oh ! sir, it was not the 
 Prussians, it was the French that did it" — " Lammermoor," Lady Emily 
 Peel's home at Geneva — Consecration at Meran of the first Anglican church 
 built in the Tyrol — A run down the Rhone through Languedoc to Carcassonne 
 — A uniquely wonderful wailed town — Lourdes the shrine of imposition — 
 Princess Frederica of Hanover at Biarritz — Bayonne and its cathedral — 
 "These English are a strange people" — A passage to Brittany in hurricane, 
 storm, and tempest. 
 
 THE year 1897 began with a confirmation at Calais on Monday, 
 22 February, and another at Boulogne on 23rd, and a third at 
 Croix on 24th, and then to Paris for my work there. The Victoria 
 Home of Aged English Women had recently been partially burnt. 
 One old lady, with all her furniture and effects, was burnt to death 
 by slow combustion, the fire occurring in the night, no one know- 
 ing of it till morning. Another old lady died from the shock 
 to her system upon hearing what had taken place. Some of these 
 old women are interesting, and can tell you tales of their life's 
 experiences if you have time to listen to them. One, the widow of 
 a Frenchman, was living during the Franco-German War twelve 
 miles from Paris. The French ordered all the inhabitants to leave 
 the village. She did so for a time, and on her return found that her 
 house had been looted, and everything taken. " Oh ! sir," she kept 
 repeating, " it was not the Prussians, it was the French who did it." 
 The Germans, she said, behaved very well, their officers used to 
 visit her, bringing tea and wine, and all sorts of little presents. 
 Two of them had English mothers, and for that reason took care of 
 her. " Oh yes, indeed, sir, it was not the Prussians, it was the 
 French that did all the mischief." She recovered her bedstead and 
 a few things after the war was over, finding them on a common three 
 miles away from her village. She pointed to the treasured bed with 
 a touching love, and said, " All my children were born in it." 
 
 Upon this occasion of my visit to Paris, in addition to my usual 
 
 278
 
 '^97] A BUSY SUNDAY ^^.^ 
 
 work there, I preached in the American church, h was a national 
 sermon, upon the benefit to the world of the two nations going 
 hand in hand with one another. I referred to the Venezuela (jues^ 
 tion, just then under discussion, and the law of Anglo-Saxon 
 arbitration as an example to the nations. The Aniirricans were 
 much pleased, and published in the American newspapers a long 
 account of what I had said in visiting their church. In the evening 
 I preached at the Embassy Church, and left afterwards for Switzer- 
 land. As I passed to the pulpit Dr. Noyes informed me that I 
 had but ten minutes to spare. I preached my ten minutes, and 
 then hurried to my carriage waiting outside, reaching the Gare 
 de Lyons only just in time, the booking-clerk informing me that I 
 had but "cinq minutes." A noisy French express is not a very 
 quiet resting-place for a night and a day after a long Sunday of 
 three services in three Paris churches, with the usual amount of 
 meetings and talking to people between. I survived it, however, 
 crossed the Jura in a snowstorm, and reached Geneva via I^iusanne 
 the next evening. 
 
 At Geneva I was the guest of Lady Emily Peel, who most kindly 
 placed her house, " Lammermoor," situated in beautiful grounds 
 upon the lake, at my disposal during my visitation of the chaplaincy, 
 she herself being absent in Italy. The views from the gardens are 
 lovely; Mont Blanc directly opposite, and across the lake the 
 mountains of Savoy. A steamboat and launch are laid up in the 
 little port at the foot of the lawns, and one turn of a button in 
 the hall lights up the gardens and grounds with electricity. Here 
 I held a Bishopric meeting, preached, and confirmed. Prince 
 Jerome Bonaparte sold his house and all its contents near Geneva 
 to an Englishman ; the Englishman found a service of Sevres china 
 stowed away in it worth ^^30,000. The Prince would not go back 
 from his bargain, and it fell to the purchaser. 
 
 From Geneva I went to Lausanne, and spoke on behalf of the 
 Bishopric Fund ; thence to Territet, where I dedicated a new organ, 
 and spoke again for the Bishopric, preached, and confirmed. From 
 Territet I went to Zurich, and inspected the reconstruction of the 
 Roman church we have bought, adapting it to the Anglican service. 
 All will be good and satisfactory when completed. 
 
 From Zurich I travelled via the Vor Arlbcrg through the night to 
 Innsbruck, in most winterly weather and dense snowstorms ; thence 
 over the Brenner Pass to Meran. No passenger over the Brenner should
 
 28o CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1897 
 
 omit to look from Gossensass station through the enormously long 
 zigzags up to the mountains, either to which he is going, or from 
 which he has descended, as the case may be. A talkative young 
 Greek, travelling with me, going to take part in the Turko-Greek 
 War, boasted ominously of the military strength and aspirations of 
 his country. Boasts which a few weeks later failed lamentably in 
 their " promised largeness." 
 
 On Wednesday, 10 March, I consecrated the first Anglican church 
 built in the Tyrol. It is a very worthy little building and suitable. 
 The walls are coloured and covered with good painting in Tyrolese 
 style, notably a large Calvary on the south chancel wall, which is 
 very effective. I also confirmed. At dinner one evening during my 
 stay in Meran I met Baroness Korff, sister of Countess Mornheim, 
 wife of the Russian Ambassador at Paris. She told some interesting 
 details of the Czar and Czarina's recent visit to Paris, for Count 
 Mornheim entertained them. The first thing the Czar and Czarina 
 did upon their arrival in Paris was to go to Notre Dame and, I 
 presume, return thanks for a safe journey, as the manner of the 
 Orthodox Church of Russia is. In the eyes of a republican President 
 and Government, no doubt, quite an unnecessary thing to do. 
 
 We were invited to, and met at, Trautmansdorf Castle, above 
 Meran, a large and interesting party of several nationalities, some 
 Austrian officers in uniform, a member of the German Foreign 
 Office from Berlin, a member of the Dutch House of Nobles, 
 Countess Bentinck, Prince and Princess Witgenstein, etc. etc. 
 Trautmansdorf is a very interesting old castle, or rather three castles 
 welded together, perched upon a rocky eminence, and commanding 
 grand views up the snow-peaked valleys and down to Botzen. As it 
 snowed without intermission and we could not go into the grounds, 
 we explored the interior of the castle, the old vaulted halls, low 
 heavy-ceiled rooms, and stone staircases, coloured and gilded and 
 set with endless coats-of-arms and heraldic devices. The family 
 motto, which occurs perpetually, is a good one, " Muth und Geduld," 
 (" Courage and Patience "). 
 
 From Meran I travelled through Italy, via Milan, Turin, and 
 Mont Cenis to Lyons. I looked with interest at Magenta, where 
 some of the heaviest fighting took place in 1859 when Napoleon III 
 commanded his army in person against Austria. A statue, probably 
 that of the Due de Magenta, stands near the station, and an obelisk 
 inscribed, no doubt, with the names of those who fell in the streets
 
 '^^7) CARCASSONNE aHi 
 
 on that hard-fought day. I was there jusl a year after the Ixittlc, in 
 i860, and the place then was cut to pieces by the conflict which 
 raged in and about the town. Relics of the fight were plentiful then ; 
 I bought bullets, eagles from shakos, and ruch like, which were 
 offered in quantities. At Lyons, after three nights in the train, I 
 confirmed. I visited the spot where President Carnot was assassi 
 nated, and then sat about in the gardens near by, where by a grim 
 piece of irony stands a monument glorifying the several revolutions. 
 On one side that of 1789, on the second that of 1S48, on the third 
 that of 1870, and on the fourth the inscription, " A toutes les gloircs 
 de la Revolution Frangaise." I failed to see where the glory lay. 
 
 From Lyons, via Nimes, Aries, and Avignon, I travelled lo 
 Argeles in the Pyrenees. Cette, on the Mediterranean, looks like a 
 large Torquay, with villas covering the hills facing seaward. Here 
 we broke into early summer ; fruit trees in the gardens white with 
 bloom, olive trees and almonds on every side, and the pastures gay 
 with daffodils and narcissus. Beziers seemed a place wurth staying 
 to explore, a grand old walled town surrounded with towers and 
 standing upon a rocky height. The prominent object is a large 
 stone castle-hke building, dominating the entire hill-top and giving 
 it the appearance of a huge, brown, colourless Kremlin. As the 
 sun rose out of the Mediterranean it lit up the spurs of the Pyrenees, 
 which stretch away westward. 
 
 At Narbonne is a large cathedral with towers flanking the nave as 
 at Exeter, but at the west end. Leaving the line into Spain by 
 Perpignan to Barcelona, that to Lourdes — whither I am bound — 
 turns westward and runs under the Pyrenees, through a country 
 growing nothing but vines : for this is Languedoc. I^one round 
 towers stand about on the rocky bare elevations, evident remnants 
 of warlike times, when the Saracens were in Sjjain and harried this 
 country. The very churches are perched aloft upon rocks and 
 fortified. The gem of all this route is Carcassonne, a uniquely 
 wonderful old walled town. It breaks upon the traveller in all its 
 wild, savage old features quite suddenly— as the train winds along 
 in and out of the low rocky hills— and sLands absolutely alone on 
 its rugged height. No less than fifty capped towers and gateways 
 rise from its brown old venerable walls. It stands .so comjxici a 
 thing, apart from everything else, that one feels a longing to lake it 
 off the rocks with a knife, like a group of oysters. Perhaps the 
 Americans will so take it, and carry it off to America.
 
 282 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [i897 
 
 Beyond this most extraordinary old Oriental town, which takes 
 one away to Armenia or Central Asia in its brown, sun-scorched 
 appearance and surroundings, are seen for the first time upon this 
 route the snowy masses and peaks of the Pyrenees, a grand and 
 fitting background, which enhances the beauty and interest of this 
 wonderful scene. A small river flows at the foot of the old town, 
 on the other side of which stands the modern Carcassonne, as ugly 
 and offensively vulgar, by contrast, as an East End girl clad in her 
 tawdry Sunday finery by the side of her Hardanger sister in 
 picturesque Norwegian dress. The pyramidal cypress which grows 
 abundantly through this region adds greatly to the beauty of the land- 
 scape. Toulouse possesses a cathedral of red stone, with a tower 
 somewhat narrow and surmounted by a stumpy spire. From Tarbes 
 is seen the Maladetta, the highest peak of the Pyrenees, rising to the 
 height of 14,000 feet. 
 
 Upon this occasion I stayed at Lourdes, and looked thoroughly 
 round and into this shrine of imposition. The church is built over 
 the grotto, the baths beneath forming quite a system, into a*id out of 
 which flow the so-called miraculous waters. Small bath chambers are 
 constructed for one person, steps leading down to them hewn in the 
 rock, with dressing-rooms curtained off". No towels are provided, 
 the holy water must not be wiped off". The grotto is always a blaze 
 of candles, with people always at their devotions, one woman 
 demonstratively so with outstretched arms. The opening, or cave, of 
 the alleged apparition is gained by climbing through the grotto and 
 up the rock. A stone marks the spot where the girl Bernadotte 
 stated that she saw the figure standing. In the opening of the cave 
 above the reservoirs and baths is a statue in plaster of the Blessed 
 Virgin in white robe and blue sash. The interior of the church is a 
 pitiful sight : banners, plaques, records of alleged miracles ; one 
 being the "conversion of three Protestant sisters" — conspicuously 
 placed at the door — old crutches by hundreds hanging around. A 
 second church beneath has lately been built called the Church of 
 the Grotto. It is Byzantine. Enormous semicircular approaches 
 to the upper church have recently been erected by the Duke of 
 Norfolk, who has been a very large contributor to the various 
 works at Lourdes. Every street, from the town to the grotto, is lined 
 with shops and booths, in which figures and pictures of the Virgin, 
 the apparition, and Bernadotte are sold by the ton. The silver images 
 of Diana of Ephesus make the heathenish atmosphere of the whole
 
 i897] PRINCESS FREDERICA OF HANOVER 283 
 
 place. A money thing from beginning to end of lliu most flagranl 
 type. It is a relief to turn to Nature's lovely views up into the 
 grand mountains ; these are natural, divine, true, where only man is 
 vile, and all around is false. 
 
 From Lourdes I drove by carriage up the beautiful valley to 
 Argeles, Though it was but 17 March, the heat was that of August, 
 80° in the shade, for the African desert wind, as it is called here in 
 the Pyrenees, was blowing and every one seemed affected by it. I 
 inspected our church-room at Argeles, situated in the Hotel dc 
 France ; all is very well arranged and kept. If the English visitors 
 increase we may need a church here some day ; an abundance 
 of erratic blocks brought down by the converging valleys of the 
 Pyrenees in the Glacial Period would furnish ample stone. Granite, 
 sandstones, limestones, grey syenite show how wide the area and 
 remote the regions from which these boulders have been brought. 
 
 From Argeles I went to Pau, and did my usual work at the three 
 churches of that chaplaincy, preaching, confirming, and speaking on 
 behalf of the Bishopric. 
 
 At Biarritz I confirmed, preached, and held another Bishopric 
 meeting, Lady Fairbairn lending her house for the purpose, and 
 Princess Frederica of Hanover and her husband attending it. One 
 day during my stay at Biarritz I lunched with Princess Frederica of 
 Hanover. She and her husband are both very pleasant. Baron 
 Ramagen showed me specimens of five magnificent cinereous vul- 
 tures which he had shot in the Pyrenees. This is the largest bird in 
 Europe, and has the widest spread of wing. 
 
 Upon leaving Biarritz I drove to Bayonne, and looked carefully 
 through the cathedral. It was built by the English in the thirteenth 
 century. At its west end are two fine spires lately restored. In 
 the centre of the nave stands a wooden unfinished lantern. At the 
 east end are seven beautiful chapels, forming the apse. The style is 
 one throughout, late pointed, somewhat that of Westminster Abbey. 
 The roof is fan-vaulted, and touched in the groining with gilt and 
 colour. At the west end between the towers are remnants of an old 
 porch, and probably portions of transepts of older date than the 
 present building. These are much decayed. The cloisters, which 
 are probably later than the cathedral, and of decorated style, arc 
 ruined by the fine stone tracery being built up and stuck over with 
 poor glass. They are further spoilt by being used as class-rooms. 
 The whole building is sadly compassed with houses.
 
 284 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1897 
 
 From Bayonne I went to Arcachon, where I confirmed, as also at 
 Bordeaux, from whence I travelled through to Paris by night, waking 
 at Fontainebleau to find a heavy fall of snow, a sharp change from 
 the 80° of heat at Argeles and Pau. From Paris I returned to 
 England via Dieppe. 
 
 In May of this year our annual Conference sat in London, our 
 services and meetings being held in St. Paul's Cathedral. On the 
 ist of June I was on the wing again to Belgium, the Rhine, and 
 Central Germany, pausing to confirm and to consult with Mr. Evan 
 Thomas, the Burgomeister, and others about a new church at 
 Antwerp, staying with Dr. Stanley. His house had recently fallen in 
 two, caused by excavations. The Belgians in the street went into 
 hysterics, and were well-nigh beside themselves, shouting, howling, 
 and making the neighbourhood otherwise hideous. When they 
 found Dr. and Mrs. Stanley quietly sitting at the end of their 
 garden, contemplating the scene, they said, "These English are a 
 strange people." They are indeed compared with some foreigners. 
 
 From Antwerp I went to Brussels, preaching and confirming en 
 route at Bruges. At Brussels the Exhibition was making the place 
 very busy. Mr. Drage, our Commissioner for the Exhibition, whom 
 I met at dinner at the Legation, took me over our English section. 
 The models of gunboats, torpedoes, liners, and yachts were its most 
 interesting feature ; an exhibition of England's shipbuilding industry 
 admitted to be unique. The English picture section was also the 
 best. Old Brussels out in the park was very well done. Having 
 confirmed and done my work in Brussels, I went on to Bonn, to 
 endeavour to set on foot a movement for building a church ; but it 
 is a very hopeless place. Thence to Frankfurt and Carlsruhe for 
 confirmation, etc. 
 
 At Carlsruhe I was again the guest of Baron von Bodmann, where 
 I met the German admiral, Eisendecke, who had just been appointed 
 by the Emperor to take his yacht, the Meteor, to Heligoland for the 
 race to Dover. Like all Germans in the services, he is interesting, 
 cultivated, and well informed. Stiff at first, he thawed when he 
 found I knew parts of the world which he had visited. Talking of 
 the feeling existing between England and Germany, he said, " What 
 has England to be jealous of with relation to Germany? She has 
 the world ; what does she want more ? " He added truly that the 
 newspapers did much international mischief. We spoke of the 
 Jameson Raid, of Rhodes, Delagoa Bay, and many other topics then
 
 1897] HURRICANE, STORM, AND THMI'KST 2H5 
 
 under discussion. No foreigner is pleasanter tlian a (German penile- 
 man of education and cultivation who knows us in Knj^land and in 
 our colonies. On parting, he said, "This has been a pleasant 
 evening, and I much hope we shall meet again." 
 
 From Carlsruhe 1 went to Stuttgart, and preached our (Queen's 
 Jubilee sermon on Sunday, 20 June, at which some of the Wiirtem- 
 burg Royal Family were present. The King was away, or he would 
 have been at church. From Stuttgart I returned direct to Kngland 
 via Ostend, to be in my place at St. Paul's on 22 June for the 
 Jubilee. 
 
 My next visitation was to the IJrittany chaplaincies, leaving 
 England on i September, and by the worst passage I ever ex- 
 perienced, in which our steamer, the Laura, was nearly lost, crossed 
 from Southampton to St. Malo. The day iiad been an awful one 
 of hurricane, storm, and tempest ; the night was, if possible, worse. 
 We lay in Totland Bay, behind the Needles, all night, and early in 
 the morning plunged into the most awful sea I ever experienced 
 except upon one occasion in the Bay of Biscay. The passage 
 should never have been attempted. Battened down as we were, the 
 sea made a clean sweep over us, and had the steering-gear gone we 
 should, without the slightest doubt, have gone too. When twelve 
 hours late we crept into St. Malo we were received with a perfect 
 ovation by a crowd upon the quay, who had doubted if we could 
 possibly live through such a storm. 
 
 At St. Servan I confirmed, and then went on to Dinan for the 
 same purpose, lunching with Mrs. Kitchener, Sir Herbert (now 
 Lord) Kitchener's stepmother. 
 
 Returning down the Ranee by steamboat to Dinard I confirmed 
 there, and came back to England via Jersey.
 
 CHAPTER XXVI 
 
 The Hague and the Spanish Inquisition — "AUeen op de Wereld " — Characteristic 
 English boy — Eleventh annual Conference at Berlin — Visit to Sir Frank 
 Lascelles at the Embassy — Prince Radolin, German Ambassador to Russia — 
 "All right ! I'll take it out this way !" — The new railway station at Dresden 
 — Napoleon's Stein at Leipzig— " Hier weilte Napoleon am i8th October, 
 1813, die Kampfe der Voelkers schlacht beobachend " — The penultimate ride 
 to Paris — Am "schritt" — Baron Tauchnitz — An afternoon with the Duke and 
 Duchess of Coburg at Rosenau, the birthplace of the Prince Consort — 
 Luther's bedroom and sitting-room in the Coburg Festung — "Through the 
 streets in which I had blacked boots I passed as Governor" — " Kommt der 
 Teufel am Englische ufer, denn wird ihn im Teich gestiirzt" — Visit to the 
 Grand Duchess of Baden at the Schloss Baden — Stone-laying of new church 
 at Diisseldorf. 
 
 ON 24 February, 1898, I began the year at the Hague, where I 
 confirmed. The small picture gallery here is always a treat : 
 the Rembrandts, Gerard Dows, W. Vanderveldes, a Van Ostade, 
 a Bakhuisen, and three superb Honderkoeters are alone worth a 
 journey to the Hague to see. The old prison, used in the Spanish 
 occupation during the iniquities and terrors of the Inquisition, is 
 horribly interesting. Axes for beheading in many shapes ; a whip- 
 ping-post with iron belt, which locked the body of the unhappy 
 victim during the operation of flogging ; foot-crushers, thumb- 
 screws, branding-irons, an instrument with which the police took 
 their captive : it is a kind of iron fork on a pole, shaped at its base 
 to fit the neck, and spiked ; an inclined plane, upon which were laid 
 those condemned to be flogged, thus securing their legs and 
 necks in iron during the process. The rack has gone to Delft ; but 
 another, upon which bodies were stretched and broken, was shown, 
 with double recesses in the beams, upon which arms and legs were 
 stretched and broken twice with heavy blows, one fracture between 
 each joint. One wonders how even the devil himself could invent 
 so many refined modes and instruments of torture and death. The 
 
 286
 
 i898] THE SPANISH INQUISITION 2H7 
 
 cell is shown in which water was dropped upon the head, causing 
 exquisite agony and finally paralysis of the brain. Also, in the same 
 room, a square pan in the floor, into which dripped the Mood «.f 
 those from whose bodies it was sfjueezed. A window is pointed out 
 from which prisoners were thrown to be torn in pieces by the mob 
 below. Perhaps the most fiendishly wicked torture was that — 
 referred to in Rider Haggard's Z/5/vM— arrived at by confining 
 victims in a cell furnished with a grated window looking across 
 a yard to the kitchen windows. Through the small opening the 
 unhappy wretches condemned to be starved to death could see the 
 cooking going on as death slowly wasted them away. Is the Kvil 
 One himself capable of worse depths of villainy? I doubt it. 
 Another cell was pointed out in which a Lutheran pastor was con- 
 fined for thirteen years. It is nearly dark, heavily grated, and open 
 to the wind and weather. The damp and cold of this cell in winter 
 must have been truly awful ; it is only those who know how raw the 
 damp and fearful the cold of Holland is who can in any measure 
 realize what that poor man's sufferings must have been. The 
 de Witt room is also shown, where Johan and Cornelius de Witt 
 were confined by the States-General of Holland, as suspected of 
 treating with the Spaniards for betrayal of the Hague. They were 
 led out to be executed, but were torn in pieces by the mob before 
 they arrived at the place of execution. On the walls of their cell 
 are drawings and writings in their blood. The (juaint old red 
 parliament buildings hard by overlook the Vivaberg, a scjuare piece 
 of water, across which is a promenade where Charles II lived when 
 in exile with his wife Catharine of Braganza. 
 
 Following the confirmation was a large reception at the house of 
 the Dutch Secretary for the Colonies, after which I left for Amster- 
 dam, where I also confirmed in both churches. 
 
 The great gallery of old masters at Amsterdam is the finest in 
 Europe. My host, Mr. Schwartz, went with me upon this occasion, 
 and I could have wished for no better guide. The many large guild 
 pictures Mr. Schwartz fully explained, several members being fx)r- 
 traits of his ancestors. Rembrandt's " -Night Watch " now stands at 
 the end of the great central hall. Such a wealth of old Dutch 
 masters can only be seen at Amsterdam. The modern Dutch school 
 is good, but for finish and exciuisite detail is far behind the old 
 painters. Van Hoogh's interiors are miracles of art, and N'ander- 
 veldes, Teniers, Jan Steens, Van Ostades, Piet Glacys, Hobbcmas,
 
 288 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1898 
 
 Ruysdaels, Berchems, Gerard Dows, are nowhere equalled in quality, 
 even at Dresden. The modern Dutch painters excel in pathetic 
 pictures, Maesdags, Israels, Mieris, Solde, Verveer, Springer, Bishof. 
 One by Mieris, a woman in a poor cottage by the bed of her dead 
 husband, " AUeen op de Wereld " is pathos itself. 
 
 The State church, where the kings and queens are crowned, is 
 oppressively dismal and dreary. What can be more uninteresting 
 than an enormously heavy old brass rood-screen, a huge tomb of 
 de Ruyter where the altar should be, and a gigantic pulpit that 
 took forty years to carve ! Here in this dreadful conventicle of 
 monstrosities, where calvinistic congregations sit with their hats 
 on, the little Queen was crowned. The views up and down the 
 canals are infinitely picturesque, many ending in old churches, 
 isolated towers, and spires, the houses lining them being quaint, 
 high gabled, and decorated. The Dutch deal in signs over their 
 shops : above a chemist's stands the figure of a man's head putting 
 out his tongue, to show presumably the state of his stomach, a dentist 
 holds up a tooth as big as a mammoth's, and so forth. The English 
 living in a radius of twenty-five miles from Amsterdam come in to 
 the services on Sunday, being well looked after and cared for by 
 Mr. Chambers, the chaplain. 
 
 Travelling circus troupes of English are found all over the 
 Continent, even as far as Russia. One such was at Amsterdam ; I 
 confirmed one member of it, and should have confirmed another, 
 but for a serious accident, by which he had been disabled. Several 
 boys were in the troupe. I gave one of the young fellows my card 
 to present to the chaplain of any place at which they might stay. 
 
 At Wiesbaden, which I visited after Amsterdam, I confirmed can- 
 didates of that place, and also from Homburg, Frankfurt, and 
 Darmstadt. Thence to Freiburg, for a confirmation, to which Baron 
 von Roeder, one of the Emperor's chamberlains, brought his daughter 
 from Carlsruhe, his wife being EngUsh. He is a great admirer of 
 England, and deeply regrets the strained relations between the two 
 countries. The Baron is an excellent type of the German nobleman. 
 He told me that Moltke planned invasions of and campaigns in 
 every European country, and all so perfectly organized that he had 
 only to " touch a button," as he expressed it, to put the whole 
 machinery of the German army in motion. He said that the 
 strength of the army consists in the officers ; they are thoroughly 
 disciplined, first-rate men, in every way equal to their work, entirely
 
 '898] ZURICH-NEUCHATEL-GKNKVA 289 
 
 dependable, and with a strong sense of duly. He argued iliai a 
 German fleet was of the first importance, and that if only ICngland 
 would stand shoulder to shoulder with Germany, their fleets could 
 dictate to the world. He often told his countrymen that a war with 
 England would be fatal to Germany. luigland would blockade 
 their ports, and Germany would be starved, so dependent is she upon 
 ocean-borne corn. 
 
 He brought me the kind regards of the Grand Duchess of Uadcn, 
 which I begged him respectfully to return. I told him that I should 
 much like to see the Emperor again, as there were several things I 
 should consider it a privilege to speak to him upon. He said he 
 was sure if His Majesty knew when I was in Berlin he would wish 
 to see me. He knew all about my interview with the Emi)eror, and 
 had seen the African assegais I gave him in his armoury. The 
 Baron had called at our Embassy in Berlin to see me on my way from 
 Russia, but I had just left. He promised me an autograph of the old 
 Kaiser to put beneath his portrait given to me by the Emj)ress 
 Augusta. He has but a few of his letters, and they are very precious. 
 
 After consulting with the architect about the new parsonage at 
 Freiburg, which will adjoin the church, I went on to Zurich to 
 preach, confirm, and confer about the proposed new church, and 
 thence to Neuchatel. At this season the gulls flock round the 
 windows and balconies of houses upon the lake to be fed. I heard 
 them when I woke demanding outside why I was not up and feed- 
 ing them. Notices are put up on the Swiss lakes, " Please feed the 
 birds." They are very tame, and no one is allowed to shoot them. 
 Flocks of scoters were dotted here and there upon the surface of the 
 lake. Two American boys wore confirmed, of whom their mother 
 talked seriously and sensibly. 
 
 I had no time to get to Morat, the Roman Aventicum across the 
 lake, with its amphitheatre and other Roman remains. It is a 
 miniature Berne, and very interesting. The castle and cathedral at 
 Neuchatel are worth a visit : they adjoin upon an eminence. The 
 groined cloisters are good ; one tower of the castle has some fine 
 Norman work upon it of the twelfth century. The courtyard of the 
 castle is picturesque, two towers with pointed roofs, and one solitary 
 tree lends a character to the picture. Thence I went to Geneva, 
 where I was the guest of the Consul, Sir (Jeorge Thillippo. He 
 has seen much service in Sierra Leone, British Columbia, Hony- 
 Kong, Straits Settlements, and Jamaica. 
 U
 
 290 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1898 
 
 I am told a characteristic story of an English boy living at 
 Ostend. He saw a notice in Tit-Bits that a prize would be given to 
 any one who could give the names of all the engines on the London, 
 Brighton, and South Coast Railway. His parents missed him ; in 
 five days he came back, having crossed to Dover, gone to Brighton, 
 got all the names, and returned. What boy of any other nationality 
 would have done it ? 
 
 Then to Lausanne, where I confirmed and dedicated a new aisle, 
 and on to Clarens and Territet. A typical day this of continental 
 work, and may therefore be given. Took early service at Lausanne 
 at 8 a.m., preached 11 a.m., dedicated new aisle; preached at 
 Clarens in the afternoon and Territet in the evening, returning to 
 Clarens afterwards. Not much opportunity for grass to grow between 
 those stones ! After Clarens confirmation I went back to Territet 
 for work of various kinds. 
 
 The Empress of Austria was then staying at the Hotel des Alpes. 
 She was in the habit of walking morning and evening up the lane 
 behind the house where I stayed. She was never sufficiently guarded 
 and attended, which led to her assassination not long after at 
 Geneva. 
 
 From Territet I went to Vevey, preached and confirmed, and 
 thence to Thun, where I took down some interesting inscriptions 
 from old chalets in the outskirts : — 
 
 So lang es Tag ist, milsst Ihr rJistloss wirken, 
 Es Kommt die Nacht, da niemand wirken kann. 
 
 Durch arbeit nur und strenge 
 
 Pflichter futtung macht sich der Freiheit werth der 
 
 Rechte niann. 
 
 Wer Gott vertraut, hat wohl gebaut. 
 
 Returning to Freiburg, I attended a meeting about the new 
 parsonage, at which we resolved to build. From Freiburg I returned 
 to England via Delle, Delemont, and Calais, through a gale and 
 snowstorm that will not be soon forgotten by railway officials in 
 that part of France; telegraph wires broken in all directions, and 
 lines almost blocked. At Lille I was told that no English papers 
 had arrived for two days. I then knew what to expect at Calais. 
 Upon arrival I found a dismal and woeful spectacle awaiting me. 
 For eighty hours a tempestuous gale and snowstorm had raged from 
 the north-east. The Gare Maritime was crammed with passengers, 
 who had been gathering there from all parts of Europe for two days
 
 '898] ANNUAL CONFERENCE AT liHRLIN ,<j, 
 
 and two nights. Every uvuilal.lc space gorged with luggage, and 
 woebegone passengers, in different stages of misery and wretchedness, 
 sleeping where and as they could. Sea mountains high, and lur im- 
 passable. Telegraphic communication only possible through Iklgium. 
 The boats were as crammed as the station. The captain was 
 anxious to try the passage, though the Marine Superintendent did not 
 advise it. The officials tried to decoy me into a train they were 
 filling for Boulogne, promising a crossing thence to Folkestone. As 
 an old bird of passage, I knew that if Dover were difficult to make 
 Folkestone would be impossible, and declined the offer. The Empress 
 Eugenie's young French priest bound for Farnboro' Hill, with whom 
 I had travelled from St. Omer, said he should return there, and 
 invited me to stay with him till the gale was over. I thanked him, 
 but said if the boat went I went too, having a sermon at St. Mary 
 Abbot's, Kensington, next morning. An old gentleman and his 
 wife came up to the captain, and asked if it would be a bad passage 
 for a lady. " Yes," replied the captain, " and for a gentleman too!" 
 " Do you advise me to remain here ? " he asked. " Certainly, if you 
 can do so." At 4.30 p.m. the captain gave the signal, and on the 
 crest of a big wave the Calais went over the bar, and plunged into 
 the big seas awaiting her outside. After two hours' battling, the gale 
 being full aft, we got over, made two shots at the Admiralty Pier, 
 and were three more hours getting away to London. 
 
 On 19 May I crossed to Antwerp, en route for Brussels. I am 
 getting such a well-known character in my part of Europe that I 
 rarely cross the Channel, or take a journey on the other side of it, 
 without some one coming up and claiming acquaintance, or at least 
 eyeing me as much as to say, " I know \s\\o you are." At Brussels 
 Sir F. and Lady Plunkett invited me to dine with them ujKDn the 
 occasion of the Queen's birthday dinner, always a gala occasion at 
 an embassy. I could not, however, stay for it, only remaining for 
 confirmation work and Sunday sermons and then to Berlin for the 
 Conference, confirming at Hanover on the way. L^pon my arrival 
 at the Embassy I found Sir Frank Lascelles at the top of the short 
 flight of steps leading up into the hall, standing to greet mc in all 
 his diplomatic magnificence, having just come back from the Queen's 
 birthday dinner with the Emperor. The Conference met in the 
 great ballroom of the Embassy, Sir Frank having kindly put the 
 Embassy at our disposal for the sessions. All wa.s most kindly 
 ordered and hospitably arranged for us.
 
 292 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1898 
 
 On the evening of the first day we sat down, between thirty and 
 forty, at a state dinner, at which I proposed Sir Frank's health and 
 he mine. All the attaches, Bering, Spring-Rice, etc., were at 
 dinner, including Colonel Grierson, the new military attache, who is 
 partly German, and speaks German as fluently as English. The 
 Emperor was holding a review the next day at Tempelhof, to which 
 Sir Frank would have taken me had I not been engaged at the Con- 
 ference. Early next morning I was awoke by the troops marching 
 along Wilhelmstrasse to the review. Each regiment as it passed 
 gave a few bars of " God save the Queen." It is, of course, the 
 German national anthem, and might therefore have no significance 
 in passing the British Embassy. Sir Frank told me that His 
 Majesty was delighted at the way his brother had been received by 
 the English in China. " Henry," he said, " gets on so well with the 
 English, they all like him." Talking to Sir Frank about Crete, the 
 Emperor remarked, " I know what you English said when we left : 
 * It is a good job that those ruffianly Germans are gone.' " " No, 
 your Majesty," replied Sir Frank; "we said that we wished they had 
 told us they were going." In driving along Unter den Linden we 
 met the three young princes also driving ; nice-looking boys, appar- 
 ently in high glee as they bowed their best to the crowded pavements. 
 
 The Conference concluded by a very large reception, at which Sir 
 Frank and I stayed for nearly two hours. 
 
 The Berlin cabs are now provided with dials or taxameters, which 
 indicate the distance travelled by figures showing the number of 
 pfennigs to be paid. The dial starts with a fixed figure of fifty 
 pfennigs ; that fare must be paid for any course however short up 
 to eight hundred metres. When the passenger has travelled four 
 hundred metres more the figure 60 springs into the place hitherto 
 occupied by the figure 50. When another four hundred metres has 
 been travelled 70 springs into the place of the 60, and so forth. Four 
 persons can ride for the same fare. It would be an inestimable 
 blessing if this taxameter system obtained in England. How 
 much cabby warfare it would spare the public. One day at 
 the Embassy Prince Radolin came to lunch. He was German 
 Ambassador at Petersburg, and a very interesting man, full of 
 information about all parts of the world. He begged me to come 
 and see him when next in Petersburg. He admired our Queen, our 
 countrymen, and our country. He has been Ambassador at Con- 
 stantinople, and speaks highly of the Turks. He agreed with me in
 
 1898] TYPE OF AN ENGLISH SOLDIER 293 
 
 thinking that the Armenians had sorely provoked the Turks to the 
 late atrocities. When we parted we had talked so much of Russia 
 and the Russians thai he jokingly took my hand, kissed it, and then 
 feigned to kiss me on the cheeks and shoulders after the manner of 
 the Russian hierarchy, saying, " That is the orthodox way, isn't it ? " 
 " No," I replied, " put your fingers into my right hand, as I hold it 
 out to you thus, and then kiss my hand." The I'rinceis a jovial, 
 happy-minded, pleasant man. 
 
 After confirming at the close of the Conference, I left Herlin for 
 Dresden, where all the usual work and social engagements awaited 
 me. The church has been much beautified by mosaics and other 
 additional ornamentation. The new railway station is wonderful, 
 perfect in its arrangements, and marvellous in its architectural 
 features. It extends for nearly one-third of a mile, and is more 
 striking even than that at Frankfurt. 
 
 A young officer, by name Edwards, lately back from India, was 
 staying at Dresden. He is a brother of the now historic Edward.s, 
 who with Fowler was shut up by the Ameer in Chitral, and were 
 the cause of the Chitral campaign organized for their relief. He 
 was staying with a Mrs. West, whose only son fell by young 
 Edwards' side. He had come to tell the widowed mother of her 
 son's last moments. I had confirmed Edwards at Heidelberg some 
 few years before when at the English college. Mr. Moore, the 
 chaplain, said that he spoke of me as his bishop ! He set an 
 excellent example here, always at church and Holy Communion, 
 and yet has been stationed far away on the northern frontier of 
 India, where no church privileges exist. He is in command of 
 Gurkhas there and longing to get back to them. We shall hear 
 more of him, I am sure. He is a fine fellow, a good type of an 
 English soldier and gentleman, quiet, unassuming, and intelligent. 
 
 Two large receptions closed my visit to Dresden, at which I met 
 a host of delightful people— the Crasters of Craster in Northumber- 
 land ; the Dowager Countess Beauchamp and I^ady Kingston, the 
 latter just from Petersburg and Moscow, and delighted with Russia ; 
 the two daughters of the Bishop of Richmond, and a gentleman 
 resident in Russia, who told me that Russian sentries guard the 
 frontier from the Baltic to the Black Sea so closely that they can sec 
 one another. Recently a man had attempted to cross between them 
 near Eydkuhnen. They gave him three warnings to stop, and then 
 shot him. Here is a story typical of Anglo-Saxon independence
 
 294 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1898 
 
 A young Englishman living in Dresden was riding lately in the 
 Grosse Garten. Coming to a rail barring his way he leapt it. A 
 policeman appeared immediately from amongst the trees and 
 demanded a fine of a mark. He gave him a two-mark piece and 
 asked for the change. The policeman could not give it. " All 
 right,'' he said, " never mind, I will take it out this way," and he 
 leapt the rail back again. The policeman looked at the Anglo-Saxon, 
 and, filled with wonder, shrugged his shoulders at the incompre- 
 hensible conduct of these strange Englanders. 
 
 I can never resist an hour or two at the galleries when in Dresden. 
 Though I know every favourite by heart they always bear, like old 
 friends, another visit. Van der Werf's " Judgment of Paris " and 
 " Expulsion of Hagar," Gerard Dow's " Hermit," Hobbemas and 
 Ruysdaels, and other gems far too numerous to name in detail. 
 The modern gallery has been considerably added to. " A Music 
 Lesson" is quite fascinating, "Der Schwerer Schickfal" a sadly 
 solemn picture. A mountaineer peasant has been killed, and is 
 brought home on a sledge. One of the escort, a messenger, 
 comes to announce the arrival of the body, which lies covered over 
 at a little distance. The poor young wife kneels, half-fallen in the 
 winter snow, just outside the cottage, her head hidden in her hands 
 upon a rough bench, the frightened children looking furtively from out 
 the door ; the dog with starting eyes stands by them. Another fine 
 picture of Norwegian scenery — the " Ncerofiord " — has been added. 
 " The Battle of Borodino " is another new one, and also an 
 Amsterdam landing-place. The Canalettos, some fifty in number, 
 and formerly in a room by themselves, are now dispersed amongst 
 other pictures. 
 
 Upon leaving Dresden for Leipzig I had opportunity to look into 
 the arrangements of the new station, which are admirable. The old 
 low level within the station is retained for local trains starting from 
 and returning to Dresden, The two new high levels on either side 
 of the old low level carry the through trains running to and from 
 Berlin, Leipzig, and Austria. The booking-hall, dining and refresh- 
 ment rooms, luggage and other offices, as at Frankfiirt, are at the end 
 of the platforms, and passengers pass from these direct to the trains. 
 Where our station hotels in England stand and block the traffic to 
 and from the platforms, all these halls and offices connected with the 
 business and traffic of the station lead directly, as arteries, to the 
 trains. A good dinner of eight courses can be had for two marks,
 
 1898] NAPOLEON'S STEIN AT LHIl'ZK} 295 
 
 and less at a smaller price, very different from the wretclied stuff 
 with which the British public is served at an exorbitant cost at 
 English railway stations. 
 
 At Leipzig I confirmed and did other work. Leipzig is built on 
 a marsh, \Yhich is drained by three small rivers, the Elster, Pleisscn, 
 and Parthe, which run swiftly in their stone channels through the 
 city. These rivers were a source of much trouble and loss in the 
 Battle of Leipzig, when Napoleon was defeated by the Allies in 18 13, 
 After a reception I drove to the Napoleon Stein, a square block of 
 pink, polished granite, enclosed by a railing, and surmounted by a 
 bronze sword, cocked hat, etc. It marks the spot where, upon the 
 slightest possible elevation in this dead level country, Napoleon 
 witnessed the battle. Upon one side of the stone are these words : 
 "Hier weilte Napoleon auf 18 October 1813, Die Kampfc der 
 Voelkers— Schlacht beobachtend." On the reverse side, " Der 
 Herr ist der Rechte Kriegsmann, Herr ist sein Nanie, 2 mos 15, 3." 
 From this disastrous battlefield and almost upon the anniversary of 
 his departure from Moscow to commence the fatal retreat, Napoleon 
 turned his back for ever upon the east and retreated to the Rhine, 
 nothing now remaining but Elba, Waterloo, and St. Helena. 
 
 I tried to realize the figure as it stood there, contemplaling the 
 end of his iniquities, the hands tucked behind the hunched back, 
 the green redingote, the cocked hat, crushed well down over the 
 forehead above the sinister face, black as thunder ; and then the 
 start upon the penultimate ride to Paris. The second, and last but 
 one, of the three historic rides to Paris, off defeated battlefields. 
 
 The new Reichsgericht is a very splendid stone building, with 
 facades of graceful pillars, and a grand dome. It is probably one of 
 the finest modern buildings, as the Rathhaus is one of the most 
 picturesque, in Germany, and far superior in point of architecture to 
 the Parliament House in Berlin. Police are placed at ever>- church 
 in Germany during service to prevent conveyances disturbmg the 
 congregation. All must go "am schritt" in passing. What a con- 
 trast to our country, where Salvation Armies are allowed to blare and 
 bellow along, going out of their way to annoy the services of the 
 Church. But we in England are far, far behind Germany m almost 
 everything relating to law, order, and discipline. In their house- 
 outside Leipzig I dined with Baron and Baroness TauchnU/.. and 
 met an almost entirely German party. 
 
 From Leipzig I went to Gotha, and confirmed m the very pretty
 
 296 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1898 
 
 little chapel, fitted up for our service by the Duke of Edinburgh, in 
 the Schlosschen am Park, and lighted by electricity. The chaplain's 
 house, under the same roof, all forming one building, is more than 
 ample in its accommodation, and is surrounded by beautifully 
 wooded grounds, which being the castle gardens, cost the chaplain 
 nothing. 
 
 From Gotha to Coburg the railway winds amongst the wooded 
 hills of the Thuringen Forest, a journey of perhaps a hundred and 
 fifty miles. At Coburg I was the guest of Mr. and Mrs. Nicholson, 
 whose son I had confirmed at Gotha a few years before. I left 
 cards upon the Duke and Duchess out at Rosenau, the Duke 
 being at Potsdam with the Emperor. Coburg is a pretty little 
 place ; the square in which the large and small palaces stand is well 
 arranged with trees and grass, leading off into all sorts of cool 
 glades. These grounds were laid out by Duke Ernest, brother of 
 our Prince Consort, who was very clever in this as in many other 
 directions. The Rosenau is the birthplace of the Prince Consort, 
 and was visited by the Queen in company with him in their 
 younger days. She records that when sitting in the hayfields 
 around, an old woman, who was haymaking, came along and said 
 in German, " Well, my dear, how are you, and how are the 
 children?" It is a small gabled house, though a good deal enlarged 
 and altered from its original size and style, and stands upon a slight 
 eminence in the midst of woods and hilly pastures. 
 
 My host, Mr. Nicholson, has a very good collection of pictures ; 
 one, an exquisite copy of the Dresden Holbein " Madonna," 
 and a good many originals of considerable value. He told me 
 that there was a doubt as to which was the original Holbein 
 "Madonna," that at Dresden or that at Darmstadt. Smidt, the 
 Berlin expert, said, when asked to give his judgment, " Why do 
 you compare the pictures, you can't tell that way; look at their 
 backs, that will tell the tale. That painted on deal will be the 
 original." That at Dresden was painted on deal, that at Darmstadt 
 on oak, and this decided the question. 
 
 The Festung is situated on a lofty and abrupt eminence, dominat- 
 ing Coburg. The rooms are fine and filled with ancient armour 
 and weapons. Two rooms are shown in which Luther lived, one 
 his sitting-room, the other his bedroom. The bedstead, chair, and 
 table are those he used ; the former an old rickety, painted thing of 
 German make, whittled much away by admirers who have taken
 
 i89S] THE DUKK AND DUCMKSS oi" COHURG 297 
 
 cuttings of it. There is a legend that, in days long gontr by, Ixsint 
 made their way into the fortress, and enlcrin}^ the dining-hall, hcgan to 
 clear the tables, till led out, enticed Ijy food at the hands of the lady 
 of the castle. This scene is depicted in a large fresco. Since that 
 time live bears have always been kept in pits within the fortress. 
 The view from the walls is very extensive, southwards into Havana, 
 northwards to the Thuringen Hills, westward to the far distant 
 Rhineland, the Maine flowing in the near distance. Eastward is 
 a little hillock joined to the fortress by a neck of land, upon which 
 the Swedish army, under Gustaf Adolf, was encamped in the Thirty 
 Years' War. The way was thus kept open for supplying the fortress 
 when besieged by the Austrians, under Wallenstein. I have entered 
 thus freely into my description of Coburg because so few English 
 ever visit it, and in consequence of its now double connexion with 
 England it is a place of interest, not only in its picturesque self, but 
 as connected with English history of our own time. 
 
 Upon the Duke's return from Potsdam, an invitation came to 
 lunch out at Rosenau the next day. In the neighbourhood of 
 Coburg I saw a crested lark. It ranks as a British bird, but is 
 exceedingly rare in our islands. It is larger than our lark and l>cars 
 a crest upon its head, which it raises and depresses as the lapwing 
 and other crested birds. Princess Beatrice of Edinburgh told mc 
 there w^ere many in this neighbourhood. 
 
 One night when at Coburg a daughter of Duke Ernst of Saxe- 
 Coburg Gotha and her two daughters came to dinner. Baron and 
 Baroness Stockmar were also invited, but the loss of a relation, to 
 my regret, prevented their coming. 
 
 The next day I drove out to Rosenau, and found the I )uke and 
 Duchess of Edinburgh in the garden. She was most kind and 
 affable, and said she was very pleased to see me again, especially 
 at Coburg. The Duke, who was far from well, limped up, leaning 
 on a stick, and said that he did not know I was at Coburg till I had 
 called. We sat out in the garden, and talked of his ruccnt visit to 
 Egypt. I expressed a hope that it had done him good. He said 
 he was much better, but that Hallouin, where he had been for the 
 baths, was "an awful place ! " The Duke's voice was soft and clear, 
 like the Queen's, and especially so now that he was not well. I 
 told the Duchess about my late visit to Russia, and of the visit of 
 the Archbishop of Finland to England for the Jubilee. When 
 discussing with the Duke the relative longitude of Berlin and
 
 298 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1898 
 
 Coburg, he maintained that Coburg was due south of Berlin. I 
 said I thought it was south-west, but deferred, of course, to the 
 Royal Admiral of the Fleet as to points of the compass. In 
 referring to a map he found that it 7vas south-west. The Duke was 
 greatly interested in the Gotha chaplaincy, which he had helped 
 so kindly, and talked much about it and its prospects, adding that 
 Coburg was so small and out of the way that no English visited it 
 to make a chaplain necessary. 
 
 We lunched out in the garden, the weather being fine and warm, 
 the Duke saying before we sat down, " I like the good old English 
 custom of grace before meals." We had grayling caught by the 
 Duke in the Etsh, the little stream flowing through Coburg. I 
 remarked that there were no grayling in the eastern counties. But 
 he corrected me, saying they were found in the Norfolk Broads, of 
 which we talked. The Duchess had never heard of these, and 
 wanted to know what broads were. After lunch the Duke took me 
 all over the Rosenau. It is very quaint, and historically interesting. 
 The views from the windows are very pretty. We went quite up 
 into the old gabled roof, supported by gigantic timbers, to see his 
 father's and uncle's little rooms. " Here," he said, taking me into 
 three small rooms quite in the roof, " here in these three rooms my 
 father and uncle lived ; in this room on the right slept their tutor, 
 in this middle room they lived and studied, and here in this little 
 room on the left they slept. Come in and look at it ; it is now my 
 daughter's bedroom." We went in ; it was very nicely but plainly 
 furnished, small and low, for the sloping roof of old beams came 
 down very close to one's head. The Duchess followed us about all 
 over the house, adding her comments as we passed from room to 
 room. She then asked me to come and see her own special room, 
 very nice and pretty, in some features perhaps, in its furniture and 
 arrangements, more Russian than English. They seemed pleased 
 when I said that the quaint little Rosenau was far more interesting 
 to me than a great stiff rectangular palace, with big rooms and 
 slippery floors, and chairs all covered up, with no interesting 
 personages about. She said, " Yes, I know so well what you mean 
 by chairs and furniture all covered up." In asking the Duke his 
 opinion as to the relative cold of Petersburg and the regions 
 reached by Nansen, he agreed with me in thinking that Nansen 
 had experienced no greater cold than Petersburg could record. 
 The Duchess is quite Russian in her kindness of heart and
 
 1898] FROM SHOEBLACK TO (iO\'i:RN()R ^99 
 
 thorough friendliness ; she has never been appreciated in Enniand 
 as she deserves to be. 
 
 Before leaving, the Duke said he wanted to show me a small 
 house with grounds where his father and uncle used to carjK-ntcr, 
 and getting into my carriage, which was waiting at the door, he 
 drove down with me to a small garden in a clump of shrubs. On 
 one side of this garden stands the little w(jo<len house, painted 
 green and white to imitate a tent. 
 
 In course of conversation I had referred to him as an authority 
 in nautical matters, which he repudiated, adding, " Talking of being 
 an authority, when young I was at Balmoral once when Dizzy was 
 in attendance upon the Queen. Some one asked me, 'as an 
 authority' on tropical travel, what a mangostine was like. I had 
 never seen one, but feeling that I ought, as a sailor, to give some 
 information about it, I said I believed it was like a mango. Diz/y 
 said, * I thought they were as unlike as could be,' and I found out 
 afterwards that he was quite right " ! At the little house in the 
 grounds we parted, the Duke saying, " I am so glad to have seen you 
 at Coburg and to have shown you the Rosenau." 
 
 Upon leaving Coburg I went to Munich for confirmation. In that 
 most ecclesiastical of all Bavarian cities I noticed that officers as 
 they passed me in my bishop's dress saluted. Very right, no doubt, 
 from their point of view, but embarrassing to me. Imagine French 
 officers doing so ! 
 
 I met a gentleman at Munich one evening whose history is an 
 interesting and, I should imagine, a unique one. He went out to 
 British Columbia in 1857, landing at Victoria with 25s. in his pocket, 
 had to black boots, and got into an office at ten dollars a month. 
 He was eventually offered the post of secretary to the Colonial Office 
 at a salary of ^500 a year. He made it his practice never to enter 
 a pubhc-house or a billiard-room, to be always half an hour before 
 time at the office, and also to stay an hour after office hours. When- 
 ever any extra work was required it was known that he was in the 
 office and ready to do it. The then Governor of British Columbia 
 found him so useful that he offered him the headshijj of police at 
 3^800 a year. He was then offered a Government appointment in 
 Sierra Leone. When in England on leave he was staying with the 
 Secretary for the Colonies, who offered him the Governorship 
 of British Columbia. Through the streets in which he had blacked 
 boots he passed as Governor, surrounded by all the insignia and
 
 300 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1898 
 
 dignity of his office. He told all this quite naturally, and without 
 the least boastfulness, merely saying that he had tried to make him- 
 self wanted, and was consequently employed. His success, he said, 
 had nothing to do with any ability on his part ; he merely tried to 
 be useful, to be wanted, to do his work well; and was highly favoured 
 and prospered in the doing of it. He spoke of British Columbia as 
 a grand country with a great future. When I .said I had heard there 
 was little work and no openings for young men there, he raised his 
 voice to excitement pitch, and said, " What ! no work, no openings ! 
 It is the finest country in the world for a young man. As to Victoria, 
 there is no city in which fortunes are more surely made." 
 
 In conversation with a lady I met in Munich I remarked casually 
 that there were so many places in Germany connected legendarily 
 with the devil, teufels briicken without end, teufels steinen, teufels 
 walden, etc. ; in fact, it was a country of very evil repute in that 
 respect. "Ach," she rephed, " aber, Sie haben teufels orten in 
 England auch ; nahe Brighton findet sich ein teufels ort ; da ist eine 
 teufel's briick, nicht wahr?" "Ah nein," I said, "das ist teufel's 
 teich ; aber, kommt der teufel am Englische ufer, denn war ihn im 
 Teich gesturzt." "Ja wohl, Ja wohl ! " she exclaimed delightedly, 
 "das ist ganz gut gesaght." 
 
 Sir Victor Drummond, our Charge d' Affaires, was in London 
 receiving his C.B., and left behind him kind messages of regret at 
 his absence. After lunching with Lady Drummond, I went out to 
 the Nymphenberg Palace, a huge building after the fashion of 
 Versailles, with park and gardens in the same style. Here lives 
 Prince Leopold Ferdinand. The canal in front of the palace is 
 said to have been dug by Turkish prisoners taken by the Bavarians 
 two hundred years ago. The Pinakotek of old masters has some 
 good pictures, but the Munich galleries are greatly overrated. 
 There is much very poor stuff in both this and the modern gallery. 
 
 After having done my work at Munich I ran for two nights up to 
 the Kochelsee in the Bavarian highlands, but as it poured the whole 
 forty-eight hours I saw little and suffered much, sleeping in a farm- 
 house over the cows, and amidst swarms of mosquitoes. 
 
 From the Kochelsee I travelled to Baden, sleeping at Constance. 
 The Consiliums Saal, where the Council of 14 14 was held, is a 
 heavy building with an enormous roof, much e7i ividetice from the 
 lake ; to the right is the large and very picturesque Insel Hotel, 
 formerly a religious house, situated upon an island, as its name 
 indicates, surrounded by gardens and wooded walks. The house in
 
 1898] THE GRAND DUCHESS OK HADEN 301 
 
 which John Huss Uvcd is near the Steinlhor. He and Jerome of 
 Prague were burnt outside the town, the spot being marked with a 
 large boulder stone. Arenenburg, where Napoleon HI when 
 Prince Louis lived with his mother, Queen Hortense, is behind 
 Constance, over the hills and out of sight. On the bridge under 
 which the Rhine flows from the lake towards SchafThausen into the 
 Lake of Zell are figures of two archbishops, Conrad and Clebhard, 
 both bishops of Constance at the end of the tenth century. 
 Constance Cathedral is Romanische in architecture, dating from 
 A.D. 1300, with lofty tower and ungraceful, modern, carved stone spire. 
 From Constance I travelled by the Black Forest Railway, striking 
 the Danube at Immendingen, and running up to its cradle at 
 Donaueschingen. Myriads upon myriads and miles upon miles of 
 small steel-blue dragon flies, an exquisite insect, swarmed in clouds 
 over the meadows bordering the river which form a perfect garden, 
 carpeted with flowers. The sources of the Danube are disputed, 
 Donaueschingen claims several quellen springing from its orchards. 
 But the real source is at Sommerau, scarcely large enough at Ms 
 birth to turn a child's toy mill. Close to it is a tunnel, as might be 
 expected, on the other side of which is the watershed towards the 
 Rhine. At Triberg I stayed a few hours, and walked to the water- 
 fall. It is pretty, but scarcely worth the break of journey. 
 
 At Baden I confirmed, the arch-priest of the Russian Church 
 being present, upon whom I afterwards called. After the confirma- 
 tion I drove up to the castle, and sat some time with the C.rand 
 Duchess, who, hearing of my coming, wished to see me. She spoke 
 much, as she always does, of her brother, the Emperor Frederick, 
 the anniversary of whose death, nine years before, had occurred the 
 previous week. Her Royal Highness spoke sadly of the inscrutable 
 mystery of his being taken away when all seemed so full of promise 
 for his reign. We also spoke of the Empress Frederick, with whom 
 she had been staying at Kronberg a fortnight before. Then of the 
 present Emperor, wishing so much that he was better known and 
 understood in England. "So good and right-minded." I sa.d 1 
 knew it, and always urged it, but there was so much ignorance and 
 misapprehension as to his true character. She expressed her regret 
 that we no longer held our services in the palace at Coblenzas m 
 her mother's time, but the room was now wanted for a burc.u. She 
 asked, as usual, how the English church in her Grand >"^»;>: ^^ 
 prospering, and if she could do anything to help .1. Ihe Grand
 
 302 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1898 
 
 Duke was away at Bretten unveiling a statue of Melancthon, and had 
 left a message of regret at his absence during my visit to Baden. I 
 asked Her Royal Highness to kindly interest herself in getting land 
 near our church at Baden for a parsonage, which she promised she 
 would do, and would also speak about to the Grand Duke. Her 
 three grandchildren, sons of her daughter, the Crown Princess of 
 Sweden, were staying with her. "They go back to Sweden this 
 afternoon, and I shall not see them again for years," she said sadly. 
 In talking of her brother, the Emperor Frederick, and how he was 
 beloved in England, she listened with much earnest interest, and was 
 much moved. It is a subject to which she constantly reverts, for 
 she is most kind-hearted and sympathetic ; a face sorrowful and sad, 
 but sweet and resigned. 
 
 From Baden I went on to Heidelberg, where I found the Grand 
 Duchess again in company with the Grand Duke opening an obser- 
 vatory and exhibition of astronomical instruments, to which she 
 told me she was going the next day. Here I stayed with a Mr. 
 Chisholm, an Anglo-Indian in the employ of the Gaekwar of Baroda, 
 a most cultivated and interesting man. He is an artist, a potter of 
 no mean skill, and knows much about many things. He took some 
 of his Indian art pottery to an eminent pottery firm in England. 
 The head of the firm called his manager, and said, " What about 
 this pottery?" "Well, sir," replied the manager, "it is our make, 
 of course, but I cannot say when we made it ! " The head of the 
 firm told Mr. Chisholm that whatever he might think of the pottery, 
 he could not recognize it as stone china. " I will not say it is stone 
 china," he said ; " I cannot and will not allow India to come into 
 competition with me." 
 
 After confirming the boys at the English colleges, I left for 
 Diisseldorf, where I confirmed and transacted other business. The 
 modern pictures at Diisseldorf are always interesting, and, as an art 
 centre, it is always adding to its collection. Andreas and Oswald 
 Achenbach's pictures are the best of the modern school. Peter 
 Janson's "Going to the Battle of Worringen, a.d. 1450" — a place 
 between Diisseldorf and Koln — is a magnificent canvas. A monk, 
 in his habit, bestrides a white horse ; he leads a rabble of life-sized 
 figures to battle, armed with bludgeons, scythes, etc. The horse 
 steps out of the canvas ; it seems almost possible to touch its head. 
 
 On Friday, 24 June, I laid the stone of a new church in the 
 Consul's garden at Diisseldorf, and then left for England, via Ostend.
 
 CHAPTER XXVII 
 
 Ghent— Abbey of Bavon, built when we in Englan.! were yet pagans, St. 
 Augustine not having yet landed at Ehl)sfleet— A buried village in the sand 
 dunes of North France— The monument at Ambleteuse to commemnratc the 
 intended invasion of England — Chateau Montataire and Henry IV — 
 Twelfth annual Conference at Lausanne— Colossal statue of the Kaiser 
 William I at Coblenz— Darmstadt— Prince Albert of Schleswig-Holstcin- 
 Alterations in Princess Alice's mausoleum— Stone-laying of Chateau D'Ocx 
 church— An historical chalet. 
 
 ON 9 March, 1899, I left England for Ghent via Ostend, where 
 I confirmed; upon this occa.sion, I saw more of Ghent 
 than in all my previous visits. The churches are grand, notably 
 the Cathedral of St. Bavon, with its fine apse jutting out upon a 
 canal, as the delight is of the Romans to build ; and it is very effec- 
 tive. I know many so placed. They have done the same at Bath, 
 with their modern church in that town. St. Jacques has two of 
 the rare Romanische western towers — like Boppard, Andernach, and 
 Coblenz on the Rhine. These are capped. Five chapels stand, 
 roofed and pointed at the east end ; in the centre a lofty spire. 
 This is the gem of Ghent. St. Pierre is also a fine church. Then 
 there is the celebrated belfry, a far finer piece of architecture than 
 that at Bruges, surmounted by its gilt dragon, said to have been 
 brought from Constantinople. In the old part of the town is a 
 grand old castle, the Chateau des Comtes, enormous, massive, and 
 grim beyond description. It is washed by water on one side. 
 Here our " time-honoured Lancaster," John of Gaunt, or Ghent, was 
 born. Then beyond is the venerable Abbey of St. Bavon, a mere 
 relic, but most interesting. One sees, by the remains of its fine 
 groined cloisters and immense banqueting-hall, what it was. Here 
 stood this grand ecclesiastical foundation when we in England were 
 yet pagans, and St. Augustine not yet landed at Ebbsfleet. I had 
 no time to go to the Rabot, a gateway with towers round and p<.)inted, 
 
 303
 
 304 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1899 
 
 such as that at Lubeck. One fragment of the old castle of Ghent 
 still stands with a very picturesque little turret. Wellington lived 
 for a time at Ghent during the hundred days, and Louis XVIII, poor 
 weak fool, opposite. He used to drive out with four cream-coloured 
 horses, and when he passed the Duke would nod condescendingly 
 and shake his three feeble ringed fingers as a don would recognize a 
 schoolboy. 
 
 At Brussels I dedicated the chancel of Christ Church, preaching 
 in both churches and confirming. Sir Francis Plunkett told me 
 that Rhodes had been at Brussels recently; he met him when dining 
 with the King. He was on his way to Berlin to see the Emperor, 
 whom he was to meet at dinner at the British Embassy. He would 
 consult with him upon concessions through German territory for his 
 Cairo to Cape Town Railway. Every one was wondering at this 
 change of front towards Rhodes. I met at the Legation the new 
 military attache. Colonel A'Court, just back from Egypt, the first 
 ever appointed to Brussels. Talking with him about the date of the 
 first train from Cairo to Khartoum as promised by Kitchener, he 
 said, " Whatever the Sirdar promises he fulfils." Sir Francis knew 
 nothing of the report that the Great Eastern Railway contemplated 
 running a line of steamers from Walton-on-the-Naze to Ostend, 
 sixty-four miles, but thought it improbable. 
 
 In going from Brussels to Dunkirk I travelled through a strange 
 region of sand dunes, small hills in fact of sand of enormous 
 extent, three miles deep from the sea inland. A number of small 
 houses nestle amongst and behind these hills, a shelter from what in 
 winter must be bitter storms and blasts from the North Sea. Now 
 and then sandstorms envelop and bury not only houses, but entire 
 villages. The frontier village of Fumes was some years ago 
 absolutely so buried to a depth of seventy feet, all being 
 covered but the top of the church tower. The village was dug out, 
 and seems none the worse ; the gardens only looking as if they 
 wanted scraping. The search at the frontier is very strict, being 
 lonely and near the seashore. At the time of the Fashoda incident 
 Dunkirk was in a frenzy of panic. The inhabitants contemplated 
 removing with all their property to Berg, a place inland, where the 
 shot and shell from the English fleet, said to have been seen in the 
 offing, could not reach them ! The French practised rifle fire so 
 continuously on the exercising ground behind St. Malo-les-Bains, 
 where I stayed, that the inhabitants were distracted with the noise.
 
 1899] MONUMENT AT AMHLETKUSK 305 
 
 An English vessel, the Fashoda, came inif) Dunkirk, and the French 
 authorities instructed the dock labourers to liavc noihint; to do with 
 her cargo ! O foolish (^alatians ! 
 
 Here I confirmed and attended a meeting at the Sailors' Institute, 
 an important institution, Dunkirk being the fourth port of Krancc, 
 though situated nearly due north on a wild, bleak, dangL-rous coast. 
 The French are exceedingly strict about people approaching the 
 fortifications. A young Norwegian sailor not long since returning 
 to his ship at night lost his way, and got amongst the ramparts. lie 
 was challenged, but not understanding French, did not stand and 
 reply. The sentry — a raw recruit who ought not to have been left 
 to act upon his own discretion — shot him dead. 
 
 The cathedral is a fine building, pointed, with dfnible aisles, and 
 apse of much dignity. The tower is detached from the nave, and 
 being lofty must serve as a good landmark. In the "place" 
 stands an animated statue of Jean Bart, the patriot, who defended 
 Dunkirk against the English. I dined with our Consul, Mr. Taylor, 
 who is an authority upon the Belgian Ardennes and the region over 
 against Sedan. He told me that at the Hotel de la Poste at 
 Bouillon the Emperor Napoleon slept on his way from Sedan to 
 Wilhelmshohe. The old ruined castle of Godfrey de Bouillon was 
 roofed to accommodate the hundreds of wounded French after the 
 capitulation, Sedan being only twelve miles distant. Malo-les-Bains 
 is growing into quite a large French bathing-place, and promises to 
 stretch several miles along the coast towards the Belgian frontier. 
 
 From Dunkirk I went to Boulogne for confirmation, sermons in 
 our two churches, and other work. Our ()ucen had passed through 
 here not long before. She showed herself, with perilous freedom, on 
 deck all the way from the entrance of the vessel into the harbour 
 mouth through the narrow passage between the harbour piers, which 
 were packed with people. She sat on deck for some time ujxjn 
 arrival at the quay talking to officials and the Admiral of Cher- 
 bourg. 
 
 My bedroom looked out upon the Napoleon monument erected 
 to commemorate his intended invasion of England. In driving out 
 to where the Grande Armee lay towards Ambleteuse, we jxissed the 
 remnant of a chateau where our Henry VIII stayed with Francis I 
 for the pageant of the " Field of the Cloth of Gold," which lies 
 farther inland. The English coast looked perilously near; one could 
 see the cliffs so plainly that they seemed almost like a bend of the 
 
 X
 
 3o6 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1899 
 
 French coast. I was told it is rarely seen so clearly. From 
 Boulogne I returned to England. 
 
 I was away again across the Channel on 24 April, confirming at 
 Dieppe, where I met at dinner "John Strange Winter," the authoress. 
 I confirmed also at Havre. For my work at Chantilly I was a guest 
 at Chateau Montataire, near Creil, which stands conspicuously upon 
 a height, and dates from the tenth century. This castle was much 
 frequented by Henri IV, and is full of memorials of that king. The 
 beautiful old carved bedstead of black oak, in which he slept, and 
 the coverlid, like an old cope, under which he lay, crusted with 
 bullion. In this historic room I was lodged. It is oak-panelled, 
 full of life-sized portraits of the King and family, Elizabeth de 
 Bourbon, Monsieur Sully, etc. The great salon is also filled with 
 panel portraits of the entire Medici family. The view from the 
 ramparts down upon the Gise is very extensive. Old chain and 
 iron armour everywhere. The Schultzes, the present owners, in- 
 herited the property from the Barons of Conde, being descended 
 from the kings of Sweden. In the evening there was a dinner-party 
 in the old baronial hall, full also of fine old panel-portraits of the 
 kings and queens of France. The castle slopes are covered with 
 acres of lilac, which attract large numbers of Parisians when in 
 flower. Beneath the ramparts are sandstone caves, in which it is 
 said that Julius Caesar lodged on his way to and from England; 
 quantities of Roman urns, lamps, etc., have been found in these 
 caves, and dug up in the grounds. A hermitage is cut in the rock, 
 where it is said that Peter the Hermit lived. It consists of a bed 
 hewn out of the rock, with a Calvary above it, fireplace, windows, etc. 
 Over the rock-hewn dwelling is an inscription, " Hie stetisse Petrus 
 eremita" {sic). The figure of a hermit, dressed as such, kneels in 
 the dark part of the rock-hewn cave, and gives it a weird appearance. 
 On the spot where the church now stands he is said to have preached 
 his first crusade. Amongst the treasures of the castle is a little 
 clasped vellum book, very old, the binding set thickly with precious 
 stones, in which the names of all the celebrities who have stayed 
 here are engrossed in illuminated colours and gold. Henri IV 
 stands first : he was a frequent guest ; and then follow the royalties 
 and great people of France upon successive pages. 
 
 We have lately opened reading-rooms and a plub for the English 
 lads and jockey boys employed in the racing stables at Chantilly. 
 Upon leaving Chantilly for Paris a trainer brought his boy whom I
 
 '899] CONFERENCE AT LAUSANNE 307 
 
 had confirmed to the station to thank nie for what I Ivid said in 
 church to the candidates. "Sir," he said, "I shall never forget 
 the words you spoke to those yuunj; people to day." This wa» 
 gratifying, for he was a plain, bliun man, and very evidently in 
 earnest. Thence to Paris for all the usual Paris work. Sir ICdmund 
 Monson was at Nice, the Queen being there, so I was not with him 
 at the Embassy upon this occasion. 
 
 From Paris I travelled to Switzerland for our Conference at 
 Lausanne, which was well attended; Dr. (iibson. Vicar of U-eds— 
 now Bishop of Gloucester— giving us the addresses at the final 
 meeting. From Lausanne I returned by Paris and Dieppe to 
 England, passing Beachy Head just as its lighthouse gle:inied out, 
 telling us that it was nightfall. 
 
 On 15 June I crossed to Ostend, and travelled through to 
 Coblenz, A young Roman Catholic priest expressed a wish to 
 Canon Curran, the chaplain of Coblenz, to see me upon " social 
 questions"— a shrewd, intelligent man, who had lately visited 
 England. He talked much of the terrible vice of the Ixindon 
 streets. I told him we were just then making special efTorts to 
 suppress it, that I had obtained statistics from Berlin as to |K)licc 
 regulations in that city, and had put them in the hands of Bishop 
 Barry, who had asked me to attend a meeting upon the subject in 
 London at Lord Kinnaird's house, to meet Cardinal Vaughan and 
 the Bishop of London. It was doubted if such regulations were 
 possible in London. We had much talk upon Anglican and Roman 
 orders. I found that he did not know the many (}uestions involved, 
 had been with very Low Churchmen in England, and only heard one 
 side. I invited him to attend the confirmation the next day ; he 
 would evidently have liked to come, but was afraid it would be 
 known in Coblenz. Bismarck's attitude to the Roman Church after 
 the Franco-German War was considered to be disastrous ; but since 
 he reversed his policy all has gone well with the Ronuns in 
 Germany. 
 
 A statue of the Empress Augusta in the Anlagen Gardens, which 
 she did so much to extend and beautify, is strikingly lifelike. It 
 is placed near the spot where she used to sit in her Bath chair 
 listening to the band, and receiving those whom she summoned to her 
 audience. It is life-sized, and represents the Empress sitting, clad in 
 royal robes, the spiked cap upon her head. Winged colonnades run 
 along each side. Upon the lower right panel the tending of the
 
 3o8 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1899 
 
 wounded in battle is sculptured, representing that work in which she 
 was much interested. On the left panel Coblenz — her favourite 
 place of residence — appears in the background, in the foreground her 
 beloved Anlagen Gardens. I remember how she used to brighten 
 up when I noticed any little improvement in them ; the last being a 
 little duck island, with duck houses upon it, of which she spoke with 
 almost childish deUght. The new equestrian statue of the old 
 Emperor William upon the Angulus Terrarum, between the Rhine 
 and Mosel, is the finest thing in Germany of its kind. The Kaiser, 
 in full uniform, rides a stepping horse, which is led by Peace, a 
 winged angel. He inclines to, and seems almost to salute, the 
 fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, which towers above across the river. 
 The statue is of bronze. It was getting dusk, and I had to ask some 
 young soldiers standing by to help me to read the inscription, which 
 they did, evidently delighted to assist the Englander in such a work. 
 
 It runs : — 
 
 Nimmer vvird das Reich zerstoret 
 Wenn wir einig seid und treu. 
 
 The statue is placed upon an enormously massive granite colonnade 
 and platform, with granite steps leading up to the platform, and in- 
 side to a gallery surrounding the statue, from which beautiful views 
 up and down the two rivers are obtained. The ground upon which 
 the monument stands is reclaimed from the rough junction land of 
 the Rhine and Mosel, and is laid out in shrubberies and gardens. 
 Massive stone steps descend on either side to both rivers. Under 
 the statue is inscribed, " Wilhelm dem Grosser." Beneath again, a 
 colossal winged eagle's head in granite. Enormous serpents lower 
 their heads and coil their bodies representing war ; two evil spirits 
 of war with awful faces flee from the feet of the Emperor as he 
 advances. The position is unique, the work grand, massive, and 
 charged with life. 
 
 At Coblenz I confirmed and preached. Here I met an interest- 
 ing man, who lives in Corsica. He farms property outside Ajaccio, 
 and speaks of the climate as beautiful, mild, and bright till Christ- 
 mas, then a wet fortnight or so, after which a bright spell, another 
 break, and then summer. The mountains of the interior rise to 
 ten thousand feet, and are covered with snow all the year round. 
 A fast service from Nice is to do the passage in eight hours. 
 
 From Coblenz I went to Darmstadt. Our Charge d'Affaires, 
 Mr. Buchanan, was away, and the Grand Duke ill with small-pox.
 
 1899] PRINCESS ALICE'S MAUSOLKLM jcxj 
 
 A bronze equestrian statue of the late Prince Louis of Hesse had 
 been recently erected ; the likeness is good, and the smile upon the 
 face pleasant. In the forest I passed a piece of water, in which 
 Princess Alice used to swim. Then it was kept clear ; now it is very 
 reedy, and filled with water-lilies and other plants. The forest is full 
 of wild boar, of which I saw many. Prince Albert of Schleswig- 
 Holstein, Princess Christian's son, came to dinner. He lx;ing the 
 only guest, we had plenty of conversation together. He never 
 seemed weary of talking over his school-days at Charterhouse. He 
 inquired about the present ritualistic crisis in our Church, adding 
 that the Emperor was anxious to be informed ujjon it, and asked 
 where he could obtain the best account of the controversy. I 
 promised to send him copies of C. Brook's This Church and Realm, 
 one for himself, the other for the Emperor. He asked if I could 
 not find time to go and see the Empress Frederick, offering to tele- 
 graph to her about it. I said I was due in Stuttgart, and had no 
 time at my disposal. He accompanied the Emperor to Norway in 
 the autumn. He asked my opinion as to the Sunday question — 
 how it should be spent. I told him that the Emperor set the best 
 Sunday and week-day example possible, and that his influence in 
 Germany for good was priceless, an example that is evidently bring- 
 ing God's blessing upon his reign and country. He said that the 
 Emperor could not stop Sunday bands and concerts as the people 
 liked them. To which I replied that I thought them harmless, ;is 
 also Sunday bicycling, boating, and skating, so long as (i) labour 
 was not employed, {2) they were used as recreation by bona fide 
 hard workers during the week, and (3) part of the Sunday was given 
 to God's service in church ; but that the rich idlers had no right 
 whatever so to use Sunday, with all the week at their disposal. In 
 this he entirely concurred. 
 
 I confirmed in the chapel of the old palace candidates of 1 »arm- 
 stadt, Frankfurt, and Heidelberg, at which the Grand Duchess 
 Melita was present. I drove out to Princess Alice's mausoleum, 
 calling to write my name at the new palace in the Grand Duke and 
 Duchess's book, and then to the old palace, where I wrote my name 
 in the Crown Prince and Princess of Greece's book. The mausoleum 
 was not much altered since I had last seen it. At the head of the 
 Princess's recumbent figure, which is touchingly beautiful — the child 
 from whom she caught the fatal diphtheria laying its small hand on its 
 mother's breast, which the mother holds in hers— is inscribed : "To
 
 3IO CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1899 
 
 the memory of Alice, Princess of Great Britain and Ireland, by her 
 loving brothers and sisters, Albert Edward, Victoria, Alfred, Helena, 
 Louise, Arthur, Leopold, and Beatrice." The mausoleum is lighted 
 by one window in beautiful glass, evidently English. The subjects : 
 visiting the sick — her great gift — our Lord carrying a lamb, the royal 
 arms, and under all, in German, " Blessed are the pure in heart, for 
 they shall see God." At the foot of the statue stand the two coffins ; 
 the late Grand Duke Louis', added since I was last here. The two 
 coffins lie side by side. When I last saw Princess Alice's coffin it 
 was in the central chamber of the mausoleum, which consists of 
 three portions, connected by a colonnade, and was then wrapped in 
 the Union Jack, by her special desire. I did not see the Union Jack 
 upon it this time ; it may be there, but if so, is hidden by the num- 
 ber of wreaths laid upon it. On one I noticed " From sister 
 Victoria." In the central portion of the mausoleum stand the 
 coffins of the two children, the boy who fell out of the window, and 
 the little sister who died of diphtheria just a month before her 
 mother. 
 
 As I drove into the old palace the house was pointed out to me 
 in which Louise, the old Kaiser's mother, was born ; she was a 
 Hessian Princess. It is white and old-fashioned ; one of the simple 
 Darmstadt palaces of that day. As I drove back I passed the new 
 Russian church being built, at the opening of which the Czar was to 
 be present in the summer. 
 
 From Darmstadt I visited Stuttgart, where I was the guest of 
 Mr. and Mrs. Johnston, most hospitable Americans. Here I 
 preached and confirmed in our beautiful church of St. Catharine. 
 I drove out to " Die Solitude," a palace of the King of Wurtemberg. 
 It accords well with its name, standing away in a forest seven miles 
 from Stuttgart, dismal and einsani. 
 
 From Stuttgart I travelled through to Chateau d'Oex to lay the 
 stone of the new church, driving from Bulle, fourteen miles, and 
 arriving just as the clock of the little parish church perched on its 
 green knoll, chimed midnight. I stayed in one of the fine old 
 chalets for which the valley is famous. A beautiful view from my 
 windows down over the hay-meadows, and across the village to the 
 great range of mountains — like the Matoppo Hills, under which Cecil 
 Rhodes is buried. At the stone-laying six chaplains assisted in the 
 presence of a large concourse of English and Swiss for so small a 
 place. The Swiss expressed themselves as much pleased with the
 
 1899] A TERRIBLE STORM j.r 
 
 function. The stone is thus inscribed : " To the glory of God, and 
 in the faith of Jesus Christ, this stone was laid by the Right Rev. 
 T. E. Wilkinson, d.d., Anglican Bishop of N. and C. ICuropc, 
 June 28, 1899." 
 
 At Rossinieres in the gorge of the Saariiie is the finest of all the 
 old carved and painted chalets of this district. It is 150 years old, 
 the largest in Switzerland, and was taken as a model of a Swiss 
 chalet for the Paris Exhibition of 1900. Here in this chalet Victor 
 Hugo wrote some of his works, the room in which he wrote being 
 shown as historic. In the garden below is a picturesque summer- 
 house used as a library with many old and some valuable books 
 bound in vellum. Saanen is an interesting village in the other 
 direction seven miles up the valley, the chalets nearly meeting across 
 the little street. Here is a foundry for cow-bells. We saw the 
 process. Some are a foot high and very heavy. The weight must 
 be most oppressive for a cow to carry. 
 
 A terrific storm of wind, sleet, and snow broke upon Chateau 
 d'Oex during the Sunday I spent there, under the blasts of which 
 the old chalet throbbed and groaned as if suffering the pangs of a 
 living creature. I was told that I could not get away via Sepey and 
 Aigle as the pass was snowed up ; but I did, and the drive, which is 
 a grand one at any time, was grander under the circumstances of 
 weather ; black, savage, bleak, and sno\\7. 
 
 On the way I turned aside at Sepey, and slept at Diablerets, but 
 all was darkness, storm, and tempest, and I saw nothing ; the 
 amphitheatre of mountains, the Oldenliorn, and Col du Pillon 
 opening out only now and then to be plunged again and again into 
 riven cloud and darkness. I was not sorry to regain the metals at 
 Aigle and the shelter of my ever-kind, hospitable friends' house, the 
 Lomas', of Territet. Mr. Lomas showed me a series of photographs 
 of most grotesque animals and birds carved in stone, upon the 
 summit of Notre Dame, Paris. They represent the virtues and 
 vices, 120 in number, and about fo'T feet in height. Often as I 
 have visited Notre Dame, and looked at it in passing since I was a 
 boy, I never even knew of their e.xistence. The rocks above Temiet 
 contain choughs— the Cornish choughs of our island— in consider- 
 able and noisy numbers. Though it was the end of the first week 
 in July, much snow had been and was still falling in the mountains. 
 A sad record had been placed in the little cemeter)- since I was last 
 here.
 
 312 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1899 
 
 "In loving memory of John Hopkinson, m.a., f.r.s., born in 
 Manchester, July 27, 1849, ^"d of his three children, Alice, aged 23, 
 Lena Evelyn, aged 19, John Gustave, aged 18, who were killed 
 (by a fall from the Petite Dent de Veisior), August 27, 1898. Lovely 
 and pleasant in their lives, and in their death they were not 
 divided." 
 
 Was ever such a tragedy recorded ? The wife and another 
 daughter were staying at an hotel near where the terrible accident 
 occurred, and brought the four bodies here for burial. The grave, 
 which is a large one, is edged with alpine flowers, alpine rose, 
 edelweiss, etc. 
 
 From the garden and terrace of Princess Woronzoff's villa high 
 above Territet is a superb view of the lake, the Savoy Mountains, 
 and Dent de Midi. On my way from Territet to Freiburg, in 
 Baden, I looked with painful interest at the new bridge over the 
 river at Miinchenstein, where the disaster of a year ago occurred. 
 A train full of people, who were returning from a festival at Basle, 
 was precipitated into the deep, treacherous little stream, a large 
 proportion being drowned. Then the bridge was one span of iron, 
 now a pier in midstream supports two sections of iron. At Freiburg 
 I confirmed, staying for the first time in the new parsonage, which is 
 very conveniently constructed and adjoins the church. 
 
 I met at dinner, upon this occasion, Mr. Jerome, the author, and 
 editor of the Idler, like myself a travelled man. He told me 
 amongst other interesting things that the Arc de I'Etoile in Paris is 
 only slabbed, veneered with stone, and that the cornices are but wood 
 and plaster. How French ! The tram here at Freiburg is called 
 a Querbahn, i.e. oblique, traverse, queer. A " queer person " is 
 an oblique or cross person. 
 
 Breaking my journey at Koln, I visited Diisseldorf, where I did 
 my work, and visited the annual exhibition of pictures. One room 
 entirely devoted to Schram's works, a versatile Viennese painter, 
 producing portraits, landscapes, sea-pieces, and architecture all 
 equally good. Auerbach and Duntze exhibited good pictures, the 
 latter had five Norwegian scenes. 
 
 From Diisseldorf I returned to iMigland via Ostend,
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII 
 
 A sleepy morning on the Dutch coast— The c|uict Danish language, the mild 
 Danes, the little custom-house, and half dozen a people to \x cxamincci — 
 Visit to Sir Edmund and Lady Kane at the British legation at G-pcnhaRcn 
 —Harvest service at St. Alhan's— Visit to the Imperial yacht /'o/e Star— 
 Call at Bernstorf Castle— Visit to Sir Francis an<l Lady Pakcnham at the 
 Legation, Stockholm— The "Skansa," a remarkahle collection— Germany's 
 war monuments— " Den tapferen Sohnnen der Vaterland." 
 
 ON 13 September of this year (1S99) I crossed to the Hook of 
 Holland on my way to Denmark and Sweden. I was up on 
 deck just as the grey dawn of the 14th stretched itself wearily over 
 the sea, and a dull browny-red lay over Holland. A few fishing 
 and other boats were about as we passed to the south of the red 
 lightship off the mouth of the Maes. The low, raking, brown shore- 
 line of Holland looked like an old Dutch picture, with its quaint 
 landmarks, look-outs, tall mills, and other items that go to make up 
 the quaintness of a Dutch landscape. A wealth of bird-life at this 
 early hour as the train made its way over the marshes — herons, 
 plovers, shore birds of all kinds fishing and feeding in the dewy 
 morning. 
 
 Past Utrecht with its grand triple tower; past Dcventer with its 
 two spires, lofty nave, and chapelled apse, and away to the spires of 
 Bremen, which loom up over the great marsh-land through which 
 the Weser cleverly makes its way. Resting a few hours at the 
 house of our kind Consul-Genera! and his wife, Mr. and Mrs. (now 
 Sir W. and Lady) Ward, in Hamburg, I resumed my journey by 
 the night express to the Danish frontier. I awuke at 4 a.m., and 
 hearing the quiet Danish language, knew that I was in Jutland. 
 All so tiny and simple, the little custom-house, the mild Danes, the 
 half-dozen people only to be examined. So unlike the crowd and 
 bustle of Central Europe, and the stern officials of big ImiK'rial 
 Germany. All was still and quiet also on the shore at Fredcricia 
 
 313
 
 314 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1899 
 
 by the Little Belt ; the still, fresh September air, so mellow in 
 Scandinavia at this season ; across the two Belts by steam ferries, 
 the two islands by rail, and past Roskilde with its red -brick 
 cathedral and twin spires, the burial-place of the Danish Royal 
 Family, and so into Copenhagen. The country traversed from 
 England is so flat that I do not think there are a dozen overhead 
 bridges between the Hook of Holland and Copenhagen ! I asked 
 an old Dane what the crowd at Roskilde station meant. "There 
 has to-day found itself a commercial gathering," the old gentleman 
 said. To which I replied, " Market day, I suppose." " Yes, yes, 
 market day, market day," glad to get the right expression. 
 
 At Copenhagen I was the guest of Sir Edmund and Lady Fane 
 at the Legation. Sir Edmund had been in the service more or less 
 all over the world, and was well-informed and most agreeable, a 
 good story-teller, and keenly enjoying a joke. To illustrate the 
 light-fingeredness of Italians — of which we had been speaking — 
 Sir Edmund told me of an EngHshman who was robbed of his 
 gold snuff-box when dining with an Italian nobleman. He reported 
 the loss to his host, adding that he would point out the gentle- 
 man who had taken it. " For goodness sake," his host exclaimed, 
 " don't make a fuss about it, that's Prince So-and-So, at the head of 
 our society here ; leave it to me, I'll get it back presently." Before 
 long the host came and slipped it into his hand. " How did you 
 get it ? " he inquired. " Oh, I went and picked his pocket as he 
 picked yours ; he will quite understand such a concurrence of cir- 
 cumstances." Sir Edmund was much amused at his butler — who is 
 German — calling me " Euer Eminenz." 
 
 Lady Suffield was staying at the Legation, being in attendance on 
 the Princess of Wales, no room existing for her at Bernstorf. Sir 
 Edmund told me that when the Emperor of Germany was staying 
 with his cousin. Lord Lonsdale, at Lowther, he was most pleasant 
 and courteous. Upon coming down to breakfast he used to take 
 old Lady Lonsdale's hand and kiss it, doing the same to young 
 Lady Lonsdale. The Emperor gave Lord Lonsdale a magnificent 
 stained-glass window for the great staircase at Lowther Castle, the 
 subjects being historical figures, with the German royal arms. The 
 Emperor admires Lord Lonsdale for his sporting habits, being the 
 best rider in England, a splendid shot, and a good yachtsman. 
 There are seven miles of terraces at Lowther overlooking the lake 
 mountains, the property running down to the shores of Ullswater,
 
 i899] RUSSIAN IMPERIAL YACHT POLE STAR 515 
 
 The Crown Prince of Denmark told Sir Edmund thai the hlc 
 Emperor of Russia, when walking in the neighbourhood of Copen- 
 hagen upon one of his autumn visits, being tired, asked a Danish 
 countryman to give him a lift. As he approached liernstorf, he 
 requested the man to take him to the castle. " No," said he, " I 
 should not like to do that." "Oh," said the Emperor, "it's all 
 right ; I'm the Emperor of Russia." " Are you really," he said. 
 " And I'll tell you who I am, I'm the Emperor of China." " Well," 
 said the Emperor, "just take me to the park gates then, and you 
 will see if the guards salute me or not." He did so, and when the 
 guard turned out, the old Dane nearly fell off his trap with terror. 
 
 On Sunday, 17 September, I drove with Sir Edmund to the 
 English church, and received with him, at the doors, the Princess of 
 Wales and Princess Victoria. As on former occasions, she came 
 and spoke a few words, as did Princess Victoria, and passed into the 
 church. Both were in deep mourning for the Queen of Denmark. 
 I preached the harvest sermon. The church was prettily decorated 
 for the festival, and crowded with English and Danes. The Jubilee 
 window I had not seen. The idea is our Queen's choice of a good 
 Hfe. Beneath arc the words, " Mary hath chosen the good part, 
 which shall not be taken away from her." Prince Albert Victor's 
 window bears the text, "Wist ye not that I must be about my 
 Father's business? To the glory of God, and in memory of 
 Albert, Victor, Christian, Edward, Duke of Clarence and Avondalc, 
 who entered into rest Jan. 14th 1892. Dedicated by present and 
 former members of the congregation of this Church." 
 
 In the afternoon I held a confirmation. The Legation has been 
 entirely renovated, redecorated, and refurnished by the British 
 Government, and all is now very handsome, being lit throughout 
 by electricity. After the confirmation I went with Sir Edmund Kane 
 and Lady Suffield to the Russian Imperial yacht, FoU Star. Al 
 the historic landing-stairs a launch from the yacht wiis awaiting 
 us manned by Russian bluejackets. On the way we passed the 
 Stamlart, another of the Czar's Imperial yachts, built for the Black 
 Sea trips, as the Pole Star for the Baltic. They are both enormous, 
 the St. Andrew light blue cross flying aft. A Greek man-of-war— 
 the King of Greece being at Bcrnstorf— was lying near; also a 
 large Russian turret warship and gunboat. All these made the 
 picturesque harbour, with its well-kept lawns and trees— from which 
 the spire of our beautiful English church rises— look its festive
 
 3i6 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1899 
 
 best. The green islands, always so emerald green at this season, 
 dotting the offing, and far away on the sea horizon the Swedish 
 coast. To the north lie old wooden hulks of men-of-war which 
 engaged Nelson a hundred years ago, and gave him, as he told 
 us, as much as he could do to silence. The old dragon spire of 
 the Hall of Commerce in the background filled up the panorama 
 and perfected it. Upon our arrival at the gangway, a Russian 
 officer received and helped us out of the launch, preceding us up 
 to the deck, where we were received by another officer and a line of 
 bluejackets. Shortly after the commander appeared, apologizing 
 that he was not quite ready when we arrived. He then proceeded 
 to show us all the wonders of this most wonderfully sumptuous 
 vessel. He and the other officers spoke French. First the great 
 dining saloon, which seats sixty persons. The whole of inlaid, 
 highly-polished, light-coloured wood. A grand piano stands at one 
 end. At the stern of this saloon is a smoking-room, sumptuously 
 furnished, and set around with gold dishes highly enamelled in 
 blue. The bread and salt vessels of the East standing conspicuously 
 in their places, offerings of Eastern subject-potentates, probably 
 Central Asian emirs. Amidships are the Empress's private rooms, 
 lovely and costly beyond description. A perfect little suite of 
 drawing-room, boudoir, bedroom, writing-room, etc. ; in fact, the 
 rooms and roomlettes seemed endless. Then the rooms — one can- 
 not bring oneself to describe them as cabins — occupied by the late 
 Czar, kept just as he left them, and no longer occupied. Then 
 followed the present Emperor's rooms ; then those of the Grand 
 Duke Michael, brother of the Czar, whom I remembered at 
 Fredensborg in 1887 as a little boy in a sailor suit. We then 
 descended to the rooms occupied by the suite ; they are almost 
 the same in size and number as those above, but, of course, much 
 plainer, though beautifully furnished. Going on deck again, we 
 were shown what is called the Veranda. It is a most luxurious 
 place to sit in when the weather is fine; it looks astern, is 
 covered, and supported by pillars. The sights shown", we fell into 
 general conversation with the commander and officers, one of whom 
 inquired about the Boers and prospects of war with the Transvaal, 
 then supposed to be imminent. He was interested to hear that I 
 not only knew the Transvaal, but his own country also. The 
 commander was a tall, serious. Orientally-frigid, though most polite 
 man, evidently very proud of showing us the magnificence of his
 
 i899] BERNSTORF CASTLE 3,7 
 
 splendid vessel, and pleased at ihc gratification wc c-xpn-ssed. W'c 
 then took our leave amidst much saluting and many assurances of 
 goodwill. Passing tlirough llic l)lucjackcts again, who formed up 
 for us, we descended to our launch, and amidst more bowings and 
 farewell salutes steamed away to the harbour. 
 
 Upon landing I drove out to Bernstorf, and wrote my name in 
 the books of the Princess of Wales, Emjjcror anil Empress of 
 Russia, Dowager Empress of Prussia, and King and Oueen of 
 Greece. Bernstorf, which is far inferior in every way to I-redens- 
 borg, was looking quiet and peaceful in its autumn dress. The only 
 sound in the profound silence reigning around was the rattle of the 
 guards' muskets as they saluted the Ambassador's carriage. 
 
 In the evening I met a large number of English and I )anes at a 
 reception given by the chaplain and Mrs. Kennedy. Sir Edmund 
 was far from well, suffering from influenza, and yet he insisted U(x)n 
 going about unselfishly with me everywhere, although I begged him 
 not to do so. This was the beginning of an illness from which he 
 never recovered, passing away some five months later. 
 
 The pay here is ;£s°°° ^ yc^^^ with a pension of ^1300. A full 
 ambassador's pension is ;j^i6oo, a first secretary jC^oo. They can 
 retire at sixty and get the pension. 
 
 On 20 September I left my kind friends and all their pleasant 
 hospitalities, little thinking that I should never see Sir lulmund 
 again, and that he would be so soon lying in the western cemetery 
 here at Copenhagen. I tried to persuade him to come with me to 
 Stockholm, but much as he would have liked it, he could not leave 
 his post whilst the Princess was at Bernstorf Crossing to Helsing- 
 borg from Elsinore, we ran all day up the desolate shores of the 
 Cattegat to Gothenburg ; rocks, moorland, forest— forest, moorkind, 
 rocks, nothing else, and yet it always fascinates me. At (Gothenburg 
 I confirmed, preached, and attended a reception at the Sailors' 
 Institute of the commercial English of Gothenburg. The Zander 
 Institution for treating rheumatic and otlier muscular complaints is 
 a very chamber of horrors, with its various machines like the 
 torture instruments of the Inquisition. 
 
 The pictures at Gothenburg are indifferent, even the Scandinavian 
 school being very poorly represented. Adolf Tidemann's four 
 pictures — "Courting," "Trying on the Bride's Dress." "Going 
 Away," and " The First Baby "—are good. Bradelius has a good 
 landscape ; Trozen and Mols some good cattle ; Hans Gude a fiord : 
 Plagemann " The North Sea,'" dark and frowning.
 
 3i8 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL 1899] 
 
 From Gothenburg I went to Stockholm, where I was the guest of 
 Sir Francis and Lady Pakenham at the Legation. Here I stayed a 
 week confirming, preaching, calHng upon many of our people, and 
 enjoying the hospitality of my kind host and hostess, which enabled 
 me to meet and become acquainted with all the English residents, 
 and not a few Swedes. Stockholm had much grown even since my 
 last visit of three years before. Since I first knew it forty years ago it 
 has leapt up from a town of wooden houses and ochre-stained shanties 
 to a really grand stone-built city of immense streets and avenues of 
 fine houses. Lady Pakenham told me that on her brother's property 
 in Lincolnshire a Viking ship was dug up on the shore, of much 
 earlier date than that at Christiania. It is rough-hewn, from the 
 trunk of an enormous oak, forty-six feet long, and wide enough to 
 seat three men abreast. It is supposed that the invading pirates 
 were killed on the Lincolnshire coast, and their vessel left the sole 
 survivor of the invasion. 
 
 Lord and Lady Terence Blackwood were here, he Secretary of 
 Legation. I remembered him at his father's. Lord Dufferin, when in 
 Paris. In less than six months after this he was Lord Ava, in con- 
 sequence of his brother's death in South Africa, and two years later 
 Marquis of Dufferin and Ava. Another attache, Mr. Herbert, 
 great-nephew of Baroness Bunsen, whom I had met in other posts, 
 was stationed at Stockholm. Lord Terence Blackwood lived out at 
 Djursholm amidst pine woods, granite rocks, and water — the sole 
 features of a Swedish landscape. The size, shape, and colour of 
 the endless villas in national style in the environs of Stockholm is 
 most quaint and bizarre. The varied bright colours light up the 
 sombre pine forests, from which they flash out in the sun like 
 coloured lamps hung about amongst the dark woods. One very 
 striking and large villa, eminently Swedish, white walls and black 
 roof and dome upon an island of its own. In a part of the 
 Djurgarten at Stockholm called "Skansa," a collection of much 
 interest has been placed, consisting of Swedish architecture, houses, 
 farmsteads, old inns, cottages, church towers, Lapp encampments, 
 Esquimo houses, Swedish animals, bears brown and polar — these 
 last in fine deep rock-hewn chasms of water — wolves, seals, foxes, 
 grey, red, and white; birds — eagles, buzzards, hawks, ospreys, owls 
 of all kinds, eagle owls, snowy owls, owls with ears, owls without ears — 
 a Scandinavian zoo in short; ancient Swedish carriages, carts, sledges, 
 boats, agricultural implements, etc. etc. An owl in Swedish is
 
 i899] STOCKHOLM 3„j 
 
 "uggla," our ugly, no doubt. Skepsholm, the island upon which 
 the Admiralty buildings stand, was very busy with crews arriving and 
 being paid off for the winter, and a band was playing. Ordinarily 
 its quiet, grassy, shady walks are silent as the tomb. 
 
 Mr. Luck, an English merchant in Stockholm, is a sportsman, and 
 has a property up in Jemtland. He has all the Swedish owls but 
 two ; there is a sparrow-owl, no larger than the bird fr(jm which it 
 takes its name. He told me that one morning between two and 
 three hundred golden-crested wrens were picked up under the light- 
 house at Landsort, outside the islands of the Baltic around Stock- 
 holm. They were flighting southward, and were killed by flying 
 against the lantern. He believes that three-fourths of the birds of 
 Europe are bred on the backbone separating Norway from Sweden. 
 It is hard to credit this, but he is an authority. 
 
 At Stockholm I confirmed and preached on the Sunday. The 
 picture gallery is most interesting, and a visit is always a pleasure. 
 It contains the best of the Scandinavian school of painters. Cedar- 
 Strom's "Bringing the Body of Charles XH back from Krederickshall " 
 is a grand picture. Hellquist's " Deputation of Reformers," Hag- 
 borg's fishing-boats and beach. Two ospreys with their talons \1\x3n 
 a great northern diver is most graphic and lifelike ; you arc there 
 with them on those dark savage waves. Tidemanns and Gudes are 
 always interesting, and the four Van Goyens the best in Euroj)c. 
 
 At the Legation were houghs of \i\a.c, sipple, etc., /lacAed rounti wit A 
 ice, and in flower. I cannot explain this phenomenon. 
 
 I left my kind host and hostess with much regret that I should 
 not find them here again when next I visited Stockholm ; his service 
 time expiring in 1901. 
 
 From Stockholm I travelled down to Malmo, where I slept, cross- 
 ing to Copenhagen in one of the autumn storms ever violent in these 
 regions, and so on via Gedjso — in a hurricane which none but an 
 Englishman or a Dane in such a cockleshell could have weathered— 
 to Warnemiinde, and thence to Hamburg. The route lies by Rostock 
 and the Schwerin Lake — upon which, at Kleine station, an old woman 
 was selling baskets of raw dried eels, which the third-class passengers 
 were rushing for and eating greedily, as children might munch sticks 
 of barley sugar. Twenty pfennigs for an eel as long as the sea- 
 serpent, so abundant are they in these broads. Near Lubcck I saw 
 a stork's nest, upon a very low house— a peculiar situation ; the 
 storks were gone, but a sparrow sat upon it as caretaker.
 
 320 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1899 
 
 At Hamburg I confirmed, preached, and accomplished all the 
 role of hospitalities always awaiting me there, by which I have the 
 opportunity of seeing the English and American residents of that 
 chaplaincy. At one of these gatherings I met a Northumberland 
 gentleman who had lived for thirty years near Fredericksriihe ; he 
 knew Bismarck and his property there. It was given him by the old 
 Kaiser after the Danish War, and consists of some six thousand 
 acres of forest. Denmark in those days ran down to Altona, and 
 this property is in Langenburg, which up to 1864 was Danish, a tiny 
 river forming the boundary. The mausoleum, like a little village 
 church, stands near the great historic fir trees, under which was 
 Bismarck's favourite seat. There rests " the man of blood and iron' 
 — the great Chancellor — in his sarcophagus. 
 
 Our Sailors' Institute at Hamburg is exceedingly well ordered and 
 arranged ; it is under the same roof as the Consulate. Hamburg at 
 the time of my visitation of the chaplaincy was building one of 
 those gigantic railway stations which are growing up all over 
 Germany, the glory of her wonderful railway system, and the admira- 
 tion of the world. It stands upon the rampart gardens, and 
 unfortunately ruins them. The Alster Basin is the outcome of the 
 dams raised to protect Hamburg in olden days, as the dams and 
 waters of Holland protect the towns of that country. Stakes were 
 driven in down the middle of it to make the passage across more 
 difficult. In these rampart gardens stands the Kriege Denkmal, 
 raised by the people of Hamburg in memory of their fellow-citizens 
 who fell in the Franco-German War. It is a very touching and pathetic 
 monument in bronze upon a marble base. The front figure represents 
 a young cavalry officer dying upon his fallen horse; on his right a 
 young infantry soldier, a private, fallen and evidently dying; on 
 the left a bearded gunner also dying, with his broken gun-rod in his 
 hand. Over the three stands an angel, stretching a wreath above 
 the gunner with her right hand, and a palm branch above the 
 infantry private with her left, while she stoops to kiss the young 
 cavalry officer as he lies before her. Around the marble plinth are 
 recorded the names of those of the Hamburg regiments who fell 
 and the actions in which they met their deaths. Upon the marble 
 base are inscribed these words : " Den tapferen Soehnen der Vater- 
 land, 1870-187 1." Why should Germany be full of such beautiful, 
 touching memorials of her fallen sons, and we in England have not 
 one such ? The art and patriotic poetry of these monuments have
 
 1899] FEELING ABOUT THE TRANSVAAL ^,2. 
 
 a tremendous influence upon national life and character. The youth 
 of a nation is stirred and elevated by such memorials. One invari- 
 ably sees a continuous stream of all ages— especially the young 
 
 grouped around them. I was told here that on Oulton Broad, near 
 Lowestoft, a man was heard calling a frog a "frischer" — this is, of 
 course, German. I never heard one so called in Suffolk. 
 
 At Hamburg I preached and confirmed twice : first the English 
 and then the German Jew candidates in German. 
 
 Upon leaving Hamburg the tunnel at Kloster Thor station was 
 pointed out, where a few days before a terrible and extraordinary 
 accident had occurred to soldiers leaving a train. Only a narrow 
 space exists between the tunnel wall and the rails. They were 
 getting out when another train came in, and in the narrow space 
 were crushed to death, some having their clothes ripped olT. 
 
 From Hamburg I went to Amsterdam, and was the guest of my 
 kind friends the Boissevains. A very bitter feeling existed here 
 about the Transvaal and the war which was imminent. No one 
 spoke of it to me; it was a tabooed subject. Flags were flying, 
 being Kriiger's seventy-second birthday. I went to the modern 
 gallery and renewed my acc^uaintance with Israels and other artists. 
 His early painting is very good, but not so his later. Hisschop's are 
 always good ; his Marken scenes admirable. Springer is another 
 well worth notice, and, of course, Alma Tadema. Klinkenberg's 
 " Siege of Leyden " is horribly interesting. 
 
 From Holland I returned to England by the Hook, on the very 
 day, 1 1 October, upon which Kruger's forces invaded Natal.
 
 CHAPTER XXIX 
 
 Bordeaux — Miles of claret — A friendly German whistles "Soldiers of the 
 Queen " — The German Emperor, our ever faithful and valued friend, salutes 
 the British flag — Visit to Sir Frank Lascelles at the British Embassy, Berlin 
 — ^The silent Russian frontier, the gate to the Far East — Trans-Siberian and 
 trans-Caspian railway works at Riga — Effect of Cossack whips in a Russian 
 riot — Service in the Russian cathedral at Riga — Posting the guard on the 
 Russian frontier of two thousand miles — At Geok Tepe with Skobeleff 
 — Visit to Sir Edmund and Lady Monson at the Embassy for Paris Con- 
 ference — The Borghese rooms at the Embassy — The Paris Exhibition of 1900 
 — Completion of Mr. Street's church at Lausanne — The Territet-Montreux- 
 Clarens-Vevey world — A run into Brittany — Effect of "Vive la France" 
 upon drowning German — " I knew the Colonel would soon put things to 
 rights ! " — Confirmation at Davos in 48° of frost — An eye-witness of the 
 assassination of the Empress of Austria at Geneva — The Empress Frederick's 
 last illness — Kind invitation to visit her at Kronberg — Fifteenth annual Con- 
 ference at Antwerp — The proposed new English church. 
 
 ON 7 February, 1900, I began my year's work, after a most 
 painful and severe illness, with a visit to the Pyrenees. In 
 much suffering I travelled nine hundred miles through without break 
 of journey. Since I returned from Scandinavia in October I had not 
 been able to walk from acute inflammation of the sciatic nerve, and 
 was now a mere wreck. However, I was enabled to get through 
 what I had to do, and broke no engagement, which was the main 
 point. 
 
 At Pau I confirmed and preached in one or other of the three 
 churches. Whilst there I took a short drive one day to Lescar, 
 once the seat of a bishopric, suppressed at the Revolution ; the 
 cathedral is now the parish church. The nave is Norman ; the rest 
 of the building transition work to early English. Henri IV's mother 
 is buried here. It is a wretched, dreary place, " Ichabod " and 
 " fuit " being written up and down the dismal little street, which 
 ends in a gateway on the hill-top, by which stands a ruinous tower 
 of thin red brick, which might be Roman. On the way I visited 
 
 322
 
 '9°°^ MILES OK CLAKKT 3,3 
 
 Bishop John Selwyn's grave in the cemetery, who died at I>au two years 
 before: "In loving memory of John Richardson Selwyn, Hishop. son 
 of G. A. Sehvyn, Bishop of LiclifiLlci and New Zealand, died Kcli. 12, 
 1898, aged 53 years. A servant of Christ ; a preacher to the CJentilcs."' 
 From Pau I went to Biarritz, which I found a hornet's nest of 
 disaffection, some taking one side with the chaplain, some the other 
 side against him. I presided at a meeting, and tried to he fair and 
 impartial, for, in my opinion, grave injustice was being done to the 
 chaplain ; but they would not hear. I will say no more upon this 
 painful subject— the one and only serious opposition to my ruling 
 through twenty years of happy harmonious work. This action of a 
 certain party at Biarritz I have never cuised to regret, becau.sc it 
 injured the chaplaincy more even than the chaplain. I drove over 
 to St. Jean de Luz and confirmed, returning afterwards to Biarritz. 
 I find this entry in my journal : " Heard of the relief of Kimberley, 
 which outweighs all disagreeables." 
 
 From Biarritz I went to Bordeaux, where I stayed again with my 
 kind and hospitable friends the Dobsons. His wine caves are a 
 wondrous sight, miles of all sorts and conditions of claret. The 
 wine, I was told, is exceedingly sensitive. If the air of the caves 
 becomes foul, the wine becomes tainted ; if kept at too high a tem- 
 perature, it ferments and is spoilt. St. Emilion, from which place 
 the celebrated claret takes its name, is four miles from Lilx)ume, 
 and is a very interesting medieval town and fortress. The cathedral 
 is absolutely hewn out of the live rock. It is well worth the one 
 and a half hour's journey from Bordeaux. 
 
 From Bordeaux I travelled back to England, staying at Lille, 
 Croix, and also Calais for confirmation, being the guest at Calais of 
 my kind and hospitable friends the Stevensons. 
 
 On 1 1 March I was away again working my way to Russia 
 through Belgium and North Germany. Crossing to Ostend, I 
 confirmed at Bruges, and also at Antwerp, preaching, visiting the 
 Sailors' Institute, and meeting the chuich committee, going thence 
 to Brussels for the usual work and social gatherings there. At Sir 
 Francis Plunkett's I met, amongst many other interesting guests, one 
 of the Transvaal Legation, who is quite on our side in the South 
 African War, as is also the King of the Belgian.s, and most of 
 the upper classes in Belgium. I understood that Muravieff, who 
 was Russian Ambassador at Copenhagen, had been in Paris early in 
 this year, and, it was supposed, not in our interests.
 
 324 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1900 
 
 As I left the Gare du Nord at Brussels, I read in a Belgian paper, 
 " Prise de Bloemfontein." As I bought the paper I said to the man 
 that we should hear next of " Prise de Pretoria." To which he 
 sulkily replied " Pas encore." Here at this station, not many weeks 
 before, Sipido attempted the life of the Prince of Wales. 
 
 At Herbesthal, the frontier, I got into a German carriage, and 
 found a young Teuton whistling "Soldiers of the Queen." " Ach !" I 
 said, " I didn't expect to hear that in Germany, and from a German 
 too; I should have expected a Boer tune." " Oh, no," he said, "I have 
 just come from England, and am not at all on the Boer side — quite 
 the reverse." He then took from his pocket-book some rather 
 good lines upon the pluck shown by the Irish Fusiliers in the war, 
 with which he seemed much delighted. "No," he said, "well-informed 
 people, who know the whole story, couldn't be on the Boer side." 
 When I bid him good-bye at Koln I said I was glad, at all events, to 
 find a second German on our side in addition to the Kaiser. 
 
 At Hanover I stayed and confirmed. The lads at an army 
 crammer's here hoisted the English flag at the relief of Ladysmith, 
 putting a notification of it in their window. The Germans broke 
 the window, tore down the flag and destroyed it. Not very long 
 after the German Emperor was in Hanover, and passing the same 
 house where the lads were cheering him and the British flag flying, 
 he saluted it in gracious and marked respect. Ever our good staunch 
 friend, he stood by us loyally all through the Boer War. 
 
 At Berlin I was the guest of Sir Frank Lascelles at the Embassy. 
 Lady Edward Cavendish, Sir Frank's sister, told me the number of 
 relations their family had at the front ; young Egerton, son of her 
 sister, Lady Louisa, being among the first kiUed at Ladysmith, when 
 working one of the guns of the Terrible. Also young Grenfel, who 
 was shut up in Pretoria. Some ten relations in all. In talking of 
 the war, our Queen said to Sir Frank in a decided way, when he was 
 staying at Windsor, " The war must be carried through to the end ; 
 the Boers have abused the liberty I gave them, they have invaded 
 my territory, and they must be driven out of it. What I gave them, 
 and they have abused, must be taken from them." She sent a 
 telegram of condolence to Sir Frank, when his nephew, young 
 Egerton, was killed. She sent such to numbers of mourners, with 
 extraordinary knowledge of each particular case and relationship. 
 Sir Frank told me that the Queen kept up the spirit of all those 
 about her during the darkest days of the war with a sure confidence
 
 I900] THE RUSSIAN FRONTIKK 335 
 
 that all would come right with us, Ijut she felt for ihr Empire 
 intensely and suffered most bitterly. 
 
 On the Sunday I preached and confirmed, huriiii; my visit to 
 Berlin I took the opportunity of talking over the trusteeship of the 
 Berlin Endowment Fund, advising as trustees, Sir Frank, the 
 American Ambassador, the Bishop of London, and Lord Ashcoml)e. 
 Lord Gough, who is attached to the Embassy here, told me that the 
 Lutherans who refused to blend their Lutheranism with Calvinism 
 under Frederick William III were imjjrisoned for thirteen years, 
 and liberated by Frederick William IV. But they are still jjerse- 
 cuted. 
 
 I left my kind friends at the Embassy on 19 March for Russia, 
 traveUing as far as Insterburg with Mr. Mason, of Memel, who told 
 me that the chaplaincy endowment at Memel is al)out ^2500, but 
 the English colony is falling away very much. At Dantzig, he added, 
 a fund started for poor English 150 years ago was lodged at the 
 Bank of England, and now reaches a considerable sum. It is in the 
 hands of two quasi-trustees, but if they die the trust dies with 
 them. Mr. Mason, who has Hved many years at Memel, on the 
 Russian frontier, w'arned me to be careful of theft when in Russia. 
 A friend of his not long before was asleep in a railway carriage, and 
 was robbed of his purse and watch. The guard was supposed to 
 have committed the theft. He told me that an enormously power- 
 ful ice-breaker, the Yermak, made by Armstrong of Newcastle, had 
 lately been off the coast at Riga and Cronstadt, breaking ice six 
 feet thick. 
 
 Queen Louisa and Kaiser Wilhelm were at Memel for a year and 
 a half in 1807, driven up into this corner of Prussia by Napoleon, 
 who behaved most insultingly to her. The meeting between them 
 was at Tilsit, not far off. After the treaty, Memel was chosen as 
 their place of refuge, being near the Russian frontier and on the sea, 
 to facilitate retreat if necessary. Mr. Mason was full of frontier 
 stories. Upon one occasion he took an old passport into Russia 
 over a small frontier post; the officer in charge told him he must be 
 detained for some days, and took the old passport away [Hrnding 
 inquiry. He got away, went back to another frontier post, said he 
 had lost his passport, and asked to be allowed to go out. The 
 ofificer refused. At last he saw an official who knew him, gave him 
 a bribe, and was allowed to slip back again into (Germany. 
 
 When I crossed the frontier at Wirballen it was so dark that I
 
 326 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1900 
 
 could not see the stream nor the sentries, a good opportunity for a 
 runaway to get across. Silence is the main feature of an arrival at 
 Wirballen, into which one glides silently and is received silently in 
 this mysteriously silent country. Then passports, roubles, and tea 
 follow — the occupations of the silent two hours' halt — whilst officials 
 gUde about like panthers and leopards, appearing to take no notice, 
 but noting everything and everybody. What a total change that 
 small stream and that line of sentry-boxes make ! The silent 
 station, the gliding officials, the lowered voice, the muffled tread, the 
 Tartar face, all telling of the entrance gate to the Far East, through 
 which we have passed. 
 
 I awoke next morning to a grand change. Berlin and Prussian- 
 Poland had been dark, sleety, dismal. Here near Dwinsk a glorious, 
 brilliantly blue Arctic sky, not a cloud above, and a white world 
 below to the horizon. The great church towers of Dwinsk white 
 also as snow, their gilt domelettes and huge crosses flashing in the 
 dazzling sunlight ; the big Dwina, a solid mass of ice a yard thick, 
 upon which the Letts with their thin brown sledges were rushing along 
 in strings one after another, like khaki flies upon a burnished sheet 
 of ground glass. The scene as I woke upon it made one blink like 
 an owl. A short stop at Diinaborg for tea, coffee, and the sweet 
 cake called "baklava," so dear to the Russian, and then away for 
 Riga. One solitary candle still lights, like a diseased glow-worm, 
 even the first-class carriages, as when railways in Russia were first 
 constructed, half a century and more ago. Russia seems to progress 
 in no other direction than in extension of empire. The carriages 
 are precisely the same as when I first saw Russia in 1859 ; not only 
 does the dismal candle still gutter along the various compartments of 
 the train to prevent passengers from hopelessly stumbling over one 
 another, but the three bells for starting the train still clang drearily 
 through the day and night, nor does the pace of the ordinary express 
 exceed the primitive thirty miles an hour. It still takes three 
 officials to manage the ticket department by night : one opens the 
 door and makes his bow, the second holds the light, the third snips. 
 All is done in stately Oriental dignified silence; in silence they bow, 
 in silence they snip, in silence they retire, in silence they close the 
 door, and are no more. Turning out to walk up and down the 
 platform it is apparent that the sun bears no more power than an 
 iced warming-pan, and one is glad to creep back into the well-heated 
 train.
 
 1900] RUSSIAN RAILWAYS 337 
 
 At Riga I was the guest of my kind and hospitable friends the 
 Bornholdts. I was told that the Russian papers and people were 
 most bitter against us. When it was reported in the theatre at 
 Moscow that Cronje had cut off Lord Roberts and destroyed his 
 force — one of the many legions of continental lies of that |)eriod — 
 the audience rose, and amid wild cheers for the Boers shook h;unls 
 with one another. 
 
 The winter this year in Russia had been continuous and severe ; 
 there had not been one break in it. The gulf closed the middle of 
 December, and had been frost-bound ever since ; it was quite the 
 sight of the season to go down to the shore, and see the enormous 
 hillocks of block ice stretching out to sea as far as the eye could 
 reach. 
 
 Talking of the corruption of Russian officials, I was told that a 
 million and a half was said to have been expended in building 
 a tunnel upon the trans-Siberian Railway which did not exist. One 
 contractor said to another, " I have come upon a bog, and shall run 
 the line through it." To which the other replied, " You're a lucky 
 fellow, a bog swallows up any amount of money." These great 
 railways through Siberia and trans-Caspia cannot pay for a genera- 
 tion, but they will pay eventually. Meanwhile Russia is employing 
 her exchequer in making them, and needs a long period of peace to 
 develop them. 
 
 Mr. Bornholdt confirmed Mr. Mason's warning about robberies in 
 the train. Near Riga a case had lately occurred. A cigarette 
 mixed with a drug was smoked, a drugged handkerchief used, and 
 the victim robbed. My host has a polar bear's skin nine feet long 
 from tip of snout to end of his rump, the finest I ever saw. 
 
 In company with Mr. Bornholdt I visited one of the great 
 factories where the trans-Siberian Railway plant is being made. It 
 employs 4200 hands. The man who showed us over had been 
 three years in England at Swindon, Gloucester, Crewe, aiid Sheffield. 
 He did not speak English, or rather I could not get him to do so ; 
 only German. The first-class "luxe" is wonderfully comfortable, 
 heated by steam apparatus, toilettes, and d:e»si coupis. The coup«;-s 
 are double, with sliding doors to isolate ; two beds in each ; the 
 upper bedstead catching up with a spring. The carriages are fifty- 
 six feet long, each holding but sixteen passengers. The third-class 
 is excellent, all bare boards, but with good toilettes and sleeping- 
 bunks. The wheel factory is vast and most interesting, and was m
 
 328 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1900 
 
 full, busy operation. The church carriages, which will be fitted up 
 for the Orthodox service, I did not see, but photographs and plans, 
 as of all the other plant, were given me. The services will be not only 
 for the passengers during their fourteen days' journey, but for the 
 railway employes, and all who in the neighbourhood of the line like 
 to make use of them. Wherever the train stops for half an hour a 
 service will be held. This will be a great boon for the district 
 traversed by the railway, for churches in Siberia are few and far 
 indeed between. The first-class carriages are of walnut wood inside, 
 the second of ash or beech, the third of pine. The first are painted 
 outside a deep, burnished blue, the second yellow, the third polished 
 pine. The furnace in each carriage for heating purposes is 
 tremendous. Close by the furnace is the toilette, its water-tank 
 touching the furnaces, or all in winter would be hopelessly frozen. 
 The woodwork of every carriage is double, and between each layer 
 of wood a three-quarter-inch layer of cork is placed for warmth in 
 winter. The air-passages above the trans-Caspian carriages are a 
 foot deep, strangely contrasting with the heating arrangements for 
 Siberia ; an index of the variety of climate in this enormous empire. 
 In this factory alone thirty men were killed by Cossacks during 
 the riots of the previous year. The Cossack whips (naghaikis) are 
 leaded at the ends, and inflict terrible wounds. They use them at 
 full gallop amongst the crowd in time of riot and rebellion. I was 
 told by the chaplain of Libau, who came over to see me, that the 
 British flag hoisted in that town at the relief of Ladysmith was torn 
 down and destroyed. 
 
 The Saturday evening services in the Orthodox Church of Russia 
 are very imposing and are always crowded ; indeed more so than the 
 Sunday services. I went one Saturday evening to the cathedral, and 
 was placed in the centre within the altar rails, the Archbishop con- 
 ducting the service. The congregation was enormous. I preached 
 and confirmed on the Sunday; our church was packed, many 
 Russians standing to the west door. 
 
 From Riga I returned to Dwinsk, and so to the frontier at 
 Eydkuhnen again, travelling with a Russian gentleman, who thought 
 that the South African War would soon be over ; he said we began 
 with too small a force, as was the case with his own country in 
 the Turkish War, when the Russian army was held so long in the 
 Balkans, and lost so heavily. 
 
 Upon a dismal morning, just as dawn crept over the lonely horizon,
 
 '900] SIR CONDIK STKl'llIiN 33,, 
 
 we crossed the little stream, as the guard in their grey grcat-coali 
 was being set along the two thousand miles of frontier, from ihc 
 Baltic to the Black Sea : a dreary scene upon a dreary morning. 
 The long pull of five hundred miles to Berlin is always a heavy last 
 feather after the weary versts of a Russian journey, but it must be 
 done to get back again into Western life and civilization. The Oder, 
 which is very broad at Custriii, is crossed by a series of bridges 
 spanning its triple stream, broken by islands, and strongly fortified. 
 
 After a night's rest I got on to Dresden, where I did my usual work 
 of preaching, confirming, and attending receptions. Sir Condie 
 Stephen, the British Minister, had kindly come from Coburg for my 
 visit, at whose house I met several foreigners : the Russian Minister 
 to Saxony and his wife, Countess Lilian Krone, who was a Wodehouse, 
 cousin of Lord Kimberley, with whom much talk about Norfolk, etc. 
 Sir Condie has seen much of the world on its interesting side. He 
 was on the Afghan Frontier Commission at Penjdeh with Sir Peter 
 Lumsden, being at the time accredited to Teheran, and rode with 
 the news of the boundary settlement from Herat to Teheran, a very 
 record and remarkable ride. He was also at (leok Tepe with 
 Skobeleff. The Russian commander would not allow him to remain 
 in his camp, but sent him over the frontier into Tcrsia ; from the 
 hills bounding that country he saw the operations against the great 
 fortress. He told me that after its capture the whole plain, far :is 
 the eye could reach, was covered with flying Turkomans. 
 
 From Dresden I went to Weimar, via Gera and Jena. The 
 country around is so intensely broken by precipitous rocky hills 
 that one wonders where the great battle could have been fought. 
 
 At Weimar I confirmed in the new church, which is good of its 
 order; but at present in the fields outside, to which the town will 
 grow. I also visited Gotha and confirmed there. I was compelled 
 to send a message to the Duke of Edinburgh to say that I was so 
 lame with sciatica that I could not get up to the Ciistle to jxiy my 
 respects. He sent back word that he was very sorry to hear I wxs 
 ill, and that he himself was so unwell that he could not get down to 
 see me. He was indeed terribly ill ; I little knew how near the 
 end was. 
 
 From Gotha I went to Frankfurt and confirmed candidates of 
 Frankfurt, Heidelberg, and Wiesbaden, and from thence returned 
 direct to England, via Ostend. 
 
 On I May I crossed to Paris, and was again the guest of my ever
 
 330 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1900 
 
 hospitable friends Sir Edward and Lady Monson, at the Embassy, 
 where we held, by their kind invitation, our annual Conference. He 
 showed me with evident pleasure the rooms I was to occupy during 
 my visit, known as the Borghese suite, and containing the furniture 
 of Princess Borghese, sister of Napoleon I, whose palace the British 
 Embassy was, and from whom it was bought by the Duke of 
 Wellington. The bedroom furniture is of great value. The large 
 gilded bedstead is still surmounted by an immense gilt eagle, with 
 outspread wings, the rest of the furniture of that date, to match, of 
 heavy gilt and red. The pier glass alone is valued at two hundred 
 guineas.* 
 
 We met daily for conference in the great ballroom, and the 
 sessions were well attended. One evening Sir E. and Lady Monson 
 gave a banquet, fifty guests, in the state dining-room, all being 
 most handsomely and hospitably done. Another day our kind host 
 and hostess gave a large reception of the Paris-English ; the gardens 
 were looking their best, and were filled with visitors. Mr. Bartlett, 
 whom I remember at Vienna, was attached here ; and some new 
 attaches whose acquaintance I made — Mr. Lister, brother of Lord 
 Ribblesdale, Sir Douglas Dawson, the military attache, and Mr. 
 Herbert, brother of Lord Herbert, of Lea, soon to go to Washing- 
 ton as our Ambassador, and shortly after his appointment to die. 
 I confirmed the American candidates in the American church, and 
 also at St. George's and the Embassy Church. 
 
 We made a rapid run through the Exhibition, but it was in a very 
 unfinished state. The view from the Alexander (Russian) Bridge 
 up and down the Seine, lined by the pavilions of the nations — 
 modelled typical buildings from all countries — was the best point for 
 a general view ; these pavilions extended from the Trocadero to 
 the Place de la Concorde. The Tartar walls of the Kremlin were 
 admirably reproduced, the elevation being much the same above the 
 Seine as the position of the real Kremlin is above the Moskva. 
 The travelling platforms, fast and slow, were very ingenious. 
 
 From Paris I went to Lausanne. The bridge over the awful gorge 
 outside Vallorbes was still under repair as the year before, and made 
 one shiver to cross it upon such an unfinished spider's web. At 
 Lausanne I preached, confirmed, and dedicated the new aisle which 
 completes and greatly improves the church. Thence I went on to 
 
 * King Edward during his visit to Paris in 1903 occupied this Borghese suite 
 of rooms.
 
 »9oO VISIT TO SWITZKRI.ANI) 3^^, 
 
 Territet, where I had my usual work and attended the usual recep- 
 tions and social functions in which 'I'crritet abounds. Territet- 
 Montreux is a very large centre of English resort, and my ever kind 
 friends Mr. and Mrs. Lomas invariably invite the TerriletMontrcux- 
 Clarens-Vevey world to meet me. 
 
 From Territet I visited Neuchatcl, where I did my work, and met 
 the English colony. Neuchfitel belonged to Prussia till 1S4S, when 
 it was given back to Switzerland. A group of statuary on the lake 
 shows Neuchatel asking to be given back to its own country. A 
 youthful Swiss sits below. 
 
 I returned to England from Switzerland via Laon, Delle, and Calais. 
 It was a biting north-easter, and we struck the bar twice in coming out 
 over it, breaking electric globes, glass, crockery, etc., in the operation. 
 
 In August I went to Brittany, crossing to St. Malo, and visited 
 the chaplaincies of Parame, St. Servan, and Dinard. As we dropped 
 down the Solent we passed the Norman coming from the Cape, 
 with our invalided and wounded soldiers on board. At all the three 
 chaplaincies I preached, confirmed, and did other work. Returning 
 to England I did no more continental work that year. My long 
 trying illness had made the year's work sit heavily and painfully 
 upon me. 
 
 The year 1901 opened with a visit to Switzerland in PY-bruary, 
 crossing to Ostend and taking my work at Freiburg in Baden on the 
 way. The cold was intense and snow covered the Continent. It 
 was days before I thawed, sitting and scorching by a Cerman stove, 
 for Russian cold in Western Europe is not provided for as in 
 Russia. I was told a good story illustrating the feeling in Alsace 
 between Germans and French. An Alsatian drowning in the Rhine 
 called upon a German policeman in French to save him, but with 
 no response ; calling again in German, with no better effect. He 
 then cried out at the top of his voice, " Vive la France ! " when a 
 policeman plunged in immediately and arrested him. 
 
 The war monument at Freiburg is near the Martinus Thor. 
 Victory stands on its summit, holding a wreath above her head. 
 Round the base stand four soldiers, a foot soldier presenting his 
 bayonet, a gunner with his rod, a cavalry soldier down and standing 
 defiantly on his guard, the fourth struck and staggering from a 
 wound. Above the soldiers, and grouped around the l^ase of the 
 square pillar on which the Victory figure stands, are four boys, repre- 
 senting the future German army. All the figures are bronze.
 
 332 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1901 
 
 An old Dienstmann in the town, who knew and liked Colonel 
 Roberts, the army crammer, who had recently returned to England 
 from Freiburg, said when he heard of the turn of affairs in South 
 Africa, " Ah, I knew when the Colonel got out there he would soon 
 put things to rights ! " 
 
 From Freiburg I went to Zurich, to settle a tangle in Church 
 matters. 
 
 Our Consul-General, Mr. Angst, was a staunch friend to England 
 in this day of her trouble. He told me that he had sat between 
 Balfour and Chamberlain at dinner in London lately, and told them 
 that although he knew England cared nothing for continental 
 opinion, it was nevertheless a great mistake not to get the foreign 
 papers on our side, instead of allowing Leyds to subsidize them with 
 Transvaal gold, and thus poison the minds of foreigners against us. 
 He quite thought with me that but for the staunch friendship of the 
 German Emperor there would have been a continental combination 
 against us. 
 
 At Zurich I held a confirmation with much difficulty, owing to 
 the deep snow. I travelled thence to Davos. If the cold was 
 bitter and the snow deep in low-lying Switzerland, in Davos — 6000 
 feet up — it was Arctic. I stayed with Mrs. Symonds, whose house is 
 full of her husband's (John Addington Symonds) books, pictures, 
 etc. He was a prolific author ; his works fill one entire shelf, and a 
 long one. Davos is a sad place, and I came upon a sad story on 
 arrival at the station. 
 
 A young man, with a bad cough and wan, anxious face, came to 
 the door of our covered sledge, and asked if we would allow him to 
 drive with us to the hotel to which he was going. " I am ill," he 
 said, "and the long journey from Basle has tired me." Thinking he 
 would inconvenience us, he said he would sit outside. This we 
 would not allow. After much hesitation he got inside, and we then 
 learnt his sad tale. He was from Manchester, had to work hard for 
 his living, and to support his widowed mother. He had been in 
 Colorado, and would return there if Davos did not cure him. " It 
 was difficult," he said, " when my father was alive ; now I have to 
 work hard, very hard, to make ends meet, and you can understand 
 how anxious I am to get well." There was no complaining, only an 
 intense sadness. I doubted if the poor fellow would ever be well 
 again, or ever leave Davos. I went to see him next day ; he was in 
 bed, and his temperature very high. Six weeks later he passed
 
 I90I] CONFIRMATION AT UAVOS 33;, 
 
 away. There are many such sad cases at Davos, and there could Ix: 
 no better work than the founding and endowing of an institution 
 where such cases might be received, either free, or at a nominal cost.* 
 There had been sixty degrees of frost lately ; this is Russian. The 
 very natives were ill in consequence. How these poor sick folk of all 
 kindreds, nations, and tongues can exist, sleeping with their windows 
 open at night and sitting or lying out on chairs and couches by day, 
 passes my comprehension. 
 
 I attended a large reception of 200 at the Victoria Hotel. They 
 were all either themselves affected, or were the friends of patients 
 wintering here! Lady Balfour of Burleigh, with her Eton boy, 
 brought here at short notice, a son of Freeman the historian, a 
 nephew of John Morley, etc. etc., mostly young. Davos had grown 
 since I had been here twelve years before from a mere village to a 
 large and important resort, full of hotels, pensions, and villas. 
 
 The late Mr. Furze, r.a., son of Archdeacon Furze, was here, 
 painting his picture of General Sir A. Nairne, which received such a 
 distinguished reception at the Royal Academy. It was indeed the 
 picture of the year. He was also painting the spandrels for Liverpool 
 Town Hall ; the trade of Liverpool at the docks being the subjects. 
 Mr. Furze was an ornithologist as well as an artist. He told me that 
 he knew of an instance of young swallows being tied by their feet to 
 the nest with horse-hair ; they were cut free, and re-tied. If this is 
 to prevent their falling out of the nest, why do not all birds which 
 build shallow nests so tie their young? He also told of owls as 
 hatching time approached laying pieces of mice, birds, etc., on the 
 edge of the nest ; and as they become decomposed, sweeping them 
 off and renewing them. As the owl takes its prey by night, and the 
 young ones might be hatched at dawn, when no food could be 
 obtained, they would perish without such instinctive provi.sion, 
 young birds requiring to be fed every few minutes. 
 
 On Ash Wednesday I went out to the early service in forty eight 
 degrees of frost ! The sun v/as lighting up the southern snow 
 mountains, which lie away in the Austrian Tyrol. The stillness and 
 grey paleness of death reigned all around, with returning life and 
 pink light stealing back upon it from the higher peaks of snow. 
 
 Tobogganing was the great amusement, and one had to Like care 
 not to be swept into space by the sledges that whizzed and whirled 
 down every hillside, the warning " Achtung " often coming too bte. 
 
 * Queen Alexanilra has since then interested herself in provillin^; such .1 home.
 
 334 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1901 
 
 I confirmed the patients who were able to get to church, and 
 others unable to do so. One a boy, whose mother, two sisters, and 
 little brother were at Davos with him. She lost another here at the 
 age of eighteen, and now this one is going, yet she is cheerful and 
 uncomplaining ; a lesson of Christian faith and patient resignation. 
 The English home was very full, the bedroom windows never shut 
 day and night, and the cold intense. To see the hundreds upon 
 hundreds of these poor souls lying out in the verandas and bal- 
 conies in their fur bags like rows of seals on the Arctic ice is a 
 strangely sad and depressing sight. The snow and ice fest was 
 just over, but the figures and groups of ice and snow were still 
 standing; porticoes, pillars, busts, polar bears in and around ice-caves, 
 all modelled in snow and ice. 
 
 A long journey in very great cold and snow brought me to Berne. 
 The young bears in the bear-pit were up the tree, which, the Bernese 
 say, is a sign of bad weather. A fine new bridge had been built 
 over the Aar, and a large handsome Palais Fe'deral next the Miinster 
 Platz, from which I obtained the finest view I ever had of the 
 Bernese Oberland. 
 
 From Berne I went to Geneva, and was the guest of Mr. and 
 Mrs. Lloyd at La Grande Boissiere. At Geneva I preached and 
 confirmed. My hostess was a witness of the assassination of the 
 Empress of Austria. She was in the same steamer upon which the 
 Empress expired. Seeing a rush and commotion on the quay, and 
 two ladies hurrying towards the boat, one with a very dusty dress, 
 she thought there had been a bicycle accident. When the steamer 
 got nearly out of the little port, the lady with the dusty dress was 
 brought out of the cabin on to the deck. Mrs. Lloyd seeing that 
 something serious was the matter, asked if she could render any 
 assistance, remarking, " This lady seems very ill." The lady in 
 attendance was in great agitation, wringing her hands and sobbing. 
 " Oh," she said, " you do not know who it is ; this lady is the 
 Empress of Austria, and she has been stabbed ! " Even the Empress 
 herself did not know this at first, thinking that the man had knocked 
 her down to get her watch. She repeated twice, smiling as she 
 spoke, " I think he wanted to get my watch, for he struck me here," 
 pointing to her breast. When she got on board a small wound was 
 discovered in the region of her heart ; notwithstanding, she sat up 
 on the deck-seat, till falling back she expired. All this occurred 
 within ten minutes. The body of the Empress was laid on a
 
 1901] LAST ILLNESS OK KMPRHSS FRKUhRiCK 335 
 stretcher made of oars and cloaks, and carried from the steamer— 
 which was put back to the quay— to the Beau RivaKe Hotel, which 
 she had so recently left to join the steamer. The wretched ^Issassin 
 had watched her all the previous day, when goin^; to lunch with the 
 Rothschilds, and when she went out shopping. He failed, however, 
 that day to find a suitable opportunity for the deed. After he had 
 struck the blow, which was dealt with a sharp file, he ran away up 
 the square by the Brunswick Monument, and was followed and 
 captured by one of the cabmen upon the stand by the (juay. 
 
 While at Geneva I attended a meeting at the Consulate to con- 
 sider the position of the chaplaincy, followed by a large reception at 
 La Grande Boissiere. From Geneva I went to Lausanne, where I 
 did the usual work required in that chaplaincy, and thence to 
 Territet for confirmation and other work, staying as usual with my 
 ever kind and hospitable friends Mr. and Mrs. Lomas, at St. Jean. 
 
 From Territet I returned to England, via Ostend, and going to 
 Caterham was told this strange story by the rector, the scene of 
 which lay at Lausanne, which I had just left. His aunt when at 
 Lausanne was attended by a young Swiss doctor during an illness. 
 A diamond ring, worth ^^150, was missed from a table in her bed- 
 room after one of his visits. He was suspected, but not charged 
 with the theft. A fortnight after he was drowned in the lake, and 
 the ring was found upon him ! 
 
 On 3 May I crossed via Antwerp to Brussels, whence, having done 
 my usual work, I travelled to Diisseldorf, and thence on to Wies- 
 baden, where I confirmed the Wiesbaden, Homburg, and Frankfurt 
 candidates, and attended two receptions. 
 
 From Wiesbaden I went to Homburg for work. The Empress 
 Frederick, hearing I was there, sent an invitation to lunch next day 
 at Cronberg. This was very kind and thoughtful, for she was 
 terribly ill. She feared she would not be able to be present at lunch, 
 but hoped to be equal to seeing me afterwards. The next day a 
 telegram came to say that the Empress was unable to receive me, 
 and so the last opportunity of seeing her passed ; the end, after long 
 and terrible suffering, came in August, just three months later. 
 
 At Heidelberg, my next point, I confirmed the English college 
 boys and preached on the Sunday, a good proportion of the recently 
 confirmed receiving their first Communion at the early service. 
 
 From Heidelberg I returned to Antwerp for the annual Con- 
 ference of chaplains, where I stayed wiili .Mr. and Mrs. Evan
 
 336 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1901 
 
 Thomas. Golden orioles frequent, and build in, their garden. This 
 is a very rare bird in England, just ranking as British. I had never 
 seen it before. The male is a brilliant yellow, with black wings ; 
 the female not unlike a green woodpecker in plumage. It is a very 
 shy bird, only visible when flying from tree to tree. The note is a 
 liquid, continuous cry, quite unlike any English bird, and not to be 
 mistaken when once heard. 
 
 The Conference was well attended and every way successful, re- 
 flecting great credit upon the newly-appointed chaplain, Mr, Kearney. 
 I stayed at Antwerp a few days beyond the Conference in order to 
 further the long-talked-of project for building a new church. We 
 were enabled to make a most satisfactory start, forming a strong 
 building committee and arousing much enthusiasm. After con- 
 firming, preaching, and visiting the Sailors' Institute, I returned to 
 England via Harwich.
 
 CHAPTER XXX 
 
 Start for Russia— Count Biilow speaks of our soliliers as " wisscn /.u stcrben "— 
 Sixteenth annual Conference at Petersburg — Lenten music in Russian 
 churches — " Pierced by a supreme note of pain" — Visit to the new cathedral 
 being built upon the spot where Alexander II was assassinated: an ccclcsi;is- 
 tical wonder of the world— Audience with the Empress of Russia at the 
 Winter Palace— Bariatinsky's opinion of Port Arthur— Moscow riots— Nine 
 hundred university students locked up — An Knplish relic of Naiwicon's 
 invasion of Russia — Start of the trans-Siiicrian train upon its six thousand 
 miles to the Pacific — Exchanging calls upon a long journey in a Russian rail- 
 way train — The oil of the engine freezes — Crossing of twelve historioil rivers 
 on one episcopal visitation — Zygmund Moczarska gets himself impris<jncd in 
 the fortress of Warsaw — Count Apponyi shows the new Houses of Parliament 
 at Buda-Pesth — Professor Vambery, the Central Asian traveller— I lis opinion 
 upon Russia : " She has swallowed a large portion of the world, but she cannot 
 digest it" — "Buss und Bet Tag," first and foremost — England's goo<l friend 
 the Hungarian Premier, Count Szel — A miracle of terrible luxury — Visit to 
 Sir Francis and Lady Plunkett at Vienna — Chapel in the Embassy much 
 improved — Sir Moses Montefiore's travelling coach — Via Prague through the 
 Saxon Switzerland to Dresden — Visit to Lord and Lady Gough at the Lega- 
 tion, Dresden — " England without a murmur breaks her gigantic money- 
 box" — "Let our finances perish rather than our prestige" — A suj>crb 
 spectacle of constancy — Leipzig a city of many interests — Weimar — "Cott war 
 mit uns" — Confirmation of English boys of Heidelberg colleges — Dedication 
 of English church at Aix-la-Chapelle — And consecration of Christ Church, 
 Brussels — Visit to Sedan, Bazeilles — Donchcry — "La maison de la ..'ernicrc 
 cartouche" — The weaver's cottage — " Le veritable escalier par le'jucl 
 I'Empereur et M. Bismarck firent I'ascento" — Visit to Sir lulmund an<! 
 Lady Monson at the Paris Embassy — Consecration of church at Chateau 
 d'Oex. 
 
 THE year 1902 opened with a start for Russia on 30 Januar)-. I 
 reached Berlin on the 3 ist, confirming the next day, and preach- 
 ing on Sunday, 2 February. I had much conversation with Sir l-'rank 
 Lascelles upon many interesting topics. Just then Count Bulow's 
 speech in the Reichstag was uppermost in the minds of Germans 
 and EngUsh. SHghting things had been said of our soldiers. Bulow 
 reproved the speakers, and said such things ought not to U- sjK.k.n 
 z 337
 
 338 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 of an army which contained men who "wissen zu sterben." The 
 Emperor told Sir Frank that no higher honour could be paid to any 
 army than that which Count Eiilow had paid to the British army 
 when he used that expression, " wissen zu sterben," in his reference 
 to its containing men who "know how to die." The Emperor 
 repeated the expression again and again, impressing the fact upon 
 Sir Frank that it was an expression used amongst Germans to 
 indicate heroism and bravery. 
 
 On Sunday night, 2 February, I left Berlin for Russia, arriving at 
 Petersburg on Tuesday, 4 February. This year we held our annual 
 Conference at Petersburg. The attendance was not large, the 
 distance to be travelled being great and the weather severe, but it 
 was successful, and marked by a good attendance of local laymen, 
 who took part in the discussions. A good gathering of ladies also 
 attended the sessions. Much hospitality at the Embassy and houses 
 of the resident English, who received the members of Conference 
 most kindly. 
 
 I was glad upon this occasion to see the Scotts again, whom I 
 remember at Berlin, Berne, Copenhagen, and now found here at the 
 British Embassy. Much talk with them over old Denmark days. 
 This was a very cold winter in Russia. One day I saw a cow being 
 hurried along the street, its udder packed in carpeting bound with 
 oilskin. It seems that they have to be kept in heated cow-houses 
 during the winter. Their udders would freeze if exposed to the cold, 
 and the cows be killed. 
 
 The music at the Russian churches, especially during Lent, is 
 worth alone the journey to Russia to hear. It entrances me as does 
 no other ecclesiastical music. Madame Longarde de Longarde, in 
 her Supreme Crime, gives — so far as it can be described — the best 
 description of it, "coming from singers so young, so clear, so 
 vigorous, and yet all pierced by a supreme note of pain; that Divine 
 despair which the voices seem to betray." It always seems to me 
 the outpouring of the intense sadness of the national soul. 
 
 One day during my stay in Petersburg I drove with Mr. Blessig 
 to the cathedral being built upon the spot where the Emperor 
 Alexander II was killed. The architect is a Russo-EngUshman of 
 three generations — not an Anglo-Russian, for he is far more Russian 
 than English — a Mr. PoUand. He and his brother showed us over 
 all the workrooms — a very factory of workshops — in which the 
 mosaics, etc., are being made for the whole of the vast interior. It
 
 1902] THE NEW CATHEDRAI. AT I'ETERSRURG 339 
 
 is to be absolutely encrusted with them. To dcsrril)e the building 
 and its exceeding magnificence would he impossible. It defies 
 description, and a detailed account of what Russian art and wealth 
 through twenty years has accomplished would fill a volume. 1 told 
 the architect that he ought to publish such a work to inform the 
 world of one of its greatest architectural wonders. He .said he had 
 thought of doing so. It is in some points rather like the IJasil 
 Cathedral at Moscow upon a gigantic scale, being many times larger, 
 grander, more gorgeous, and magnificent. The spot upon which 
 the Emperor fell is to be canopied by an exquisite little chajK-l of 
 solid green and pink Siberian jasper, an igneous stone of great 
 beauty. This is surmounted by a large and superb cross of 
 amethysts and topaz. The very footmarks where the wounded 
 Emperor walked to look after his Cossacks— thrown to the ground 
 and shattered by the bombs which killed him — are to be marked on 
 the pavement of the little chapel. These marks must, of course, be 
 apocryphal, but the idea will please the pilgrims. 
 
 The interior of the building was a forest of mighty scaffoldings, by 
 which we climbed nearly to the roof to see the mosaics being laid 
 upon the walls. They consist of enormous slabs weighing, perhaps, 
 a ton or more each. In the apse the largest finished subject is 
 placed, the Saviour giving the Holy Sacrament to the apostles, who 
 stand bending, as the manner of the Greek Church is, to receive. 
 Our Lord is handing a salver of small loaves to St. Peter on His 
 right hand, and the cup to another apostle on His left. The others 
 are coming up, bending their knees, and inclining their bodies to 
 receive in their turn. The exterior of the building consists of a 
 central tower and spire as far as the Greek Church employs such. 
 It is a termination to a tower rather than a spire, such as one sees on 
 Moscow churches and gateways. Four domelettes, as usual, stand 
 around the central dome ; three are quaint, of the rough pine-apple 
 shape, like those on St. Basil at Moscow; the fourth smooth and 
 gilt. All are enamelled, the only work of such colossal size in the 
 world. Hearing that an Anglican Bishop was visiting the building, 
 the authorities gave orders that the great bell of seventeen tons 
 should be rung. A graceful act of brotherly feeling, which is an 
 index of the strong and close attachment of the Russian to the 
 Anglican Church. The great deep booming continued all the time 
 I was going over the building, and as I went out it continued till I 
 reached my carriage and drove away. It will probably take twenty-
 
 340 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 five or thirty years to finish this marvel of ecclesiastical architecture. 
 The architect gave me a photograph of the exterior ; but being un- 
 coloured it loses much of the beauty and brilliancy of the reality. It 
 is nothing without the gorgeous Eastern colouring. 
 
 I took my pectoral cross to what is said to be the largest jewellery 
 and enamelling shop in Europe, to inquire about an enamelled 
 medallion as a centre ornament. They advised me not to have it 
 touched, the cross being, in their opinion, correct in every respect. 
 
 Colonel Beresford, our military attache, called upon me during my 
 visit, and talked of his projected journey to Central Asia. He had 
 arranged to go to Samarkand and Tashkend, sledging for three 
 weeks between the end of the trans-Caspian Railway at Tashkend 
 and the nearest point of the Siberian Railway. But as Mrs. Beresford 
 was not strong enough for such an undertaking, they were going 
 instead by the Siberian railway to Port Arthur and Pekin, a twenty- 
 seven days' journey. 
 
 On the Saturday evening I went to the Isaac Cathedral to hear 
 the music, which is always the best service in the week, especially 
 during Lent. I was conducted within the altar rails and accommo- 
 dated with a seat. 
 
 I met Lord Dunmore one evening at dinner at the Embassy. He 
 has seen much of the world, having been, like myself, a lifelong 
 traveller. Although he has written a book upon the Pamirs, and 
 therefore knows that part of the Russian Empire, this was his first visit 
 to its capital. 
 
 The Czarina hearing that I was in Petersburg informed Sir C. 
 Scott, our Ambassador, that she had known me in her Darmstadt 
 days, and wished to see me. An audience was therefore arranged 
 at the Winter Palace for 10 February. On the Sunday I preached 
 and confirmed, the Dean of St. Isaac's Cathedral lending his cope 
 for the occasion. The material was purple silk, brocaded with cloth- 
 of-gold, set round at the bottom with bells. It was so long that 
 two choir-boys in surplices held the train as we walked up the 
 church singing the processional hymn. A notification was sent in 
 the evening from the Winter Palace, fixing 11.30 a.m. the next day 
 for an audience with the Czarina. The next morning therefore I 
 drove to the Winter Palace. It was quite worth the journey to 
 Russia to see the wonderful Eastern, combined with Western, pomp 
 and grandeur with which these Russian crowned heads are sur- 
 rounded. I alighted at the Empress's entrance, and then, a Court
 
 I902] AUDIENCE WITH THE C/ARINA 341 
 
 official attending me, began a journey of what sccnicd (jiiiie a (juaricr 
 of a mile of white marble stairways, corridors, and state-rooms Ijcforc 
 the great Lady at the end of all things was reached. First came 
 guards in gorgeous uniforms, with fixed bayonets, at the foot of each 
 flight upon flight of staircase. In addition guards on each landing, 
 also fully armed, who might have been so many statues. Then 
 when the top of these well-defended heights was gained a guard- 
 room had to be crossed, occupied by a detachment of soldiers in 
 white uniforms standing at salute behind a highly burnished field- 
 piece upon an elaborate carriage. The gun looked as if made of 
 silver — what the metal was I do not know. It stood apparently 
 ready to sweep a wide central corridor that dwindled into the far 
 distance and was thronged with Court officials, officers in sujK'rb 
 uniforms, and ministers of State in every variety of costume, moving 
 along and across the corridor from endless rooms that lay to right 
 and left. Passing through the guard-room 1 entered this corridor. 
 It was lined on both sides from one end to the other with ofticials ; 
 a closely set avenue of burnished cuirasses — with helmets of silver 
 and silver gilt surmounted by huge double-headed eagles — all at the 
 salute and flashing with drawn swords. Solomon in all his glory 
 could hardly have walked those two hundred yards without wincing. 
 Having run the gauntlet of naked blades and glittering bayonets in 
 safety — and thankful to find my head still upon my shoulders — I was 
 received by the Master of Court Ceremonies, more magnificently 
 attired than any hitherto encountered. He received me with much 
 circumstance, speaking in English, and conducted me to a circular 
 room guarded by soldiers with drawn swords, who rapidly reversed 
 their blades as we passed. There, in the circular room, we waited 
 and conversed, passing on after a little while between two enormous 
 negroes in brilliant native dresses, into a very magnificent saloon of 
 great length — a ballroom I should imagine — looking out upon the 
 Neva. Here at the extremity of the state apartments we sat and talked 
 of England, the Coronation, my visit to Russia, etc. At the end of 
 this saloon were doors guarded by another solitary colossal native. 
 Presently these doors to the private apartments were opened, and 
 the Master of the Ceremonies, leading me into them, rclirc-d with 
 the information that I should find Her Majesty the Empress in 
 the second room. I was now alone, and upon entering the second 
 room the Czarina rose and came forward and greeted me with all the 
 kindness of old Darmstadt days. Moving to a seat near the open
 
 342 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 English fireplace, she asked me to take a chair at her side. These 
 private apartments were very lovely, not unlike her private apart- 
 ments in the Kremlin at Moscow. She began at once to talk of the 
 visits I used to make to Darmstadt in her father's time, reminding 
 me that she used to attend the confirmations with her father in the 
 palace chapel. As we talked about the Darmstadt people and the 
 many changes that had taken place there, she said, " It is so nice to 
 talk over those old Darmstadt days." I asked if Her Majesty's 
 sister, Princess Heinrich — whom I had not seen since those days — 
 would be at Kiel when I returned from Copenhagen in the autumn, 
 as she had asked me to call and see her. The Empress could not be 
 sure where she might be then, possibly she would be at the German 
 autumn manoeuvres. I also asked after her sister the Grand Duchess 
 Elizabeth, wife of the Grand Duke Sergius. "You will see her, no 
 doubt," she said, "when you are at Moscow." She spoke much of our 
 Queen, and of her funeral. " What a loss to England, a great loss 
 indeed; she was always so good and kind, so thoughtful to every one." 
 She also spoke of her visit the year before to Copenhagen, adding 
 that the Czar would not be there that year. I told her of the pro- 
 jected new English church at Frankfurt, in which I knew she would 
 be interested, Frankfurt being in the Grand Duchy of Hesse- 
 Darmstadt. I said that the Empress Frederick would have laid the 
 first stone had she lived, and that I should be very glad if she would 
 now do so instead, when at Darmstadt in the autumn. She said 
 she could not promise, but would ask the Emperor about it. Talk- 
 ing of the new Russian cathedral in memory of the Czar, I was 
 surprised to find that she had not yet seen it. I related how magnifi- 
 cent it all was, and that the consecration — which she and the 
 Emperor would no doubt attend— would be a very grand function. 
 We then moved, the Czarina assuring me that she would not forget 
 to consult the Emperor about the stone-laying at Frankfiirt, which 
 she did, sending a message afterwards, through our Ambassador, 
 consenting to do so.* At the conclusion of the audience I made 
 my way again, ushered by the Master of Court Ceremonies, who was 
 awaiting me, through the state apartments. He took leave of me 
 at the entrance to the great corridor, and I passed through the sam« 
 display as marked my coming back to my carriage. 
 
 I then drove out to a private confirmation at a house upon one of 
 the islands of the Neva. There I met one of the ofificers of the 
 
 * Circumstances rendered the carrying out of this kind promise impossible.
 
 '902] MOSCOW 3^3 
 
 Pole Star, a brother of Prince Uarialinsky, who had l.ccn in the 
 Russian navy before his appointment to the royal yacht, and there- 
 fore knows the world. We talked of Copenhagen, of the Cape, and 
 Simon's Bay. He told me that when the trans-Siberian Railway 
 was finished it would be only ten days or a fortnight's journey from 
 London to Pekin ! He also told me that Port Arthur was a bad 
 anchorage, that the mountains on the north poured down gales (jf 
 wind upon the bay before which ships had to clear out t(j sea. He 
 hoped we should meet in the autumn at Copenhagen. 
 
 From Petersburg I went to Moscow. One evening while at 
 Moscow I dined with a Mr. Bezant, a Suffolk man, very interesting 
 and well informed. He worked as civil engineer u[)on the first 
 section of the Siberian Railway between Moscow and Samara on the 
 Volga. Because he would not become a Russian subject, Witte, the 
 Minister of Ways— the late Prime Minister— dispensed with his 
 further services. William Cazalet told me that Prince Calitzin, 
 Master of the Czar's Hunt, stayed with the Luttrells at I )unster for 
 Exmoor stag-hunting, and enjoyed it immensely. Every night 
 during my stay in Moscow mounted detachments patrolled the 
 streets. Riots were feared amongst the workpeople; it was supposed 
 they would break out in the spring, not only in Moscow, but in 
 Kieff and South Russia.* Great precautions were being taken, 
 newspapers suppressed, etc. The whole country was, more or less, 
 in a very restless state ; soldiers are kept in reserve out of sight at 
 such times in the great riding-school at Moscow, said to be the 
 largest building in Europe. It is opposite the university, and was 
 used when the students broke into revolt the previous year. Nine 
 hundred were locked up in it ; many who were then arrested had 
 never been heard of again ; some, it was supposed, were banished to 
 Siberia, others taken to Petersburg and drowned in cells of the 
 fortress of SS. Peter and Paul, for which purpose the waters of the 
 Neva are admitted. 
 
 One of the married daughters of Mr. Cibson, who has large 
 works at Moscow, has lived four years at Krasnoyarsk, 4000 
 versts into Siberia, on the west side of Lake Baikal. She t»jld me 
 that it is dangerous to go out at night, so much criminal blood 
 existing there, in consequence of the generations of exiles who have 
 been banished into those regions. The scenery in Baikailia is 
 
 * The outbreak occurred at Moscow soon aficr I left, also »t Kieff and in 
 
 several provinces of Russia, in which many people were killed.
 
 344 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 beautiful, but summer only lasts two months. Many English flowers 
 grow in Siberia, even the fan palm is indigenous, and several orchids. 
 This seems strange, for the frosts of winter are so intense that Lake 
 Baikal is frozen beyond the power of an ice-crusher to break. The 
 trans-Siberian Railway was at this time completed to Port Arthur, 
 but was very unsafe, having been so hastily put together. From 
 Chita, the junction for Vladivostock, there were still about 3000 
 versts to be made. 
 
 I met an English lady at Moscow who had lately visited the 
 Crimea. She told me that not only are Livadia and Yalta beautiful, 
 but also the country round Sebastopol. Kist's Hotel at Sebastopol, 
 kept by a German, has a lovely garden, looking on to the bay. The 
 excursions are numerous : to Balaclava, with its land-locked harbour; 
 to Inkermann, with its monastery cut into and out of the precipitous 
 rock, round which the railway now runs from Bakshe Serai to Sebas- 
 topol ; to the English graveyard about 30 versts distant, which is 
 beautifully kept. The cottage in which Lord Raglan died is shown. 
 From Sebastopol to Yalta by sea is four hours ; but the most in- 
 teresting and picturesque route is to drive twelve hours up "the 
 valley of death," i.e. the valley of the Balaclava charge, and through 
 the gates of Bida. Sebastopol is only forty-eight hours from 
 Moscow. February is the best month in which to visit the Crimea; 
 it is then pleasant and spring-like. 
 
 I am told that every tenth letter leaving Russia is opened. If it 
 contains anything against the Government it is destroyed. When at 
 Moscow the news reached Russia of the alliance which we had 
 concluded with Japan. The English of Moscow were delighted ; it 
 was looked upon as an effective checkmate to Russian aggression. 
 The Russians, naturally, were displeased, but the papers did not 
 comment much upon it. 
 
 In 1893 there died in Moscow the last of three sisters, a Miss 
 Coard, who was twelve years old in 181 2, and remembered being 
 taken away with her family and all their belongings many miles to 
 the north-east of Moscow when Napoleon and his Grande Armee won 
 the Battle of Borodino, which laid Moscow open to his advance. 
 She would not, by reason of her youth, have had much to say 
 about events of that date, but must have been interesting merely 
 to look at, as having taken some part in that remote historical 
 event. 
 
 Saturday, being preparation day for early Sunday Mass, is always
 
 1902] TIIK TRANS-SIBICRIAN TRAIN 345 
 
 one of much booming of bells in Moscow. The sound is ihat of 
 thousands of gigantic cockchafers, as large as the donie of Si. Paul's 
 — if such a simile be possible — droning and roaring through the air. 
 The great bell of Moscow weighs 440,000 lbs. ; the largest in use 
 128 tons. Our Big Ben weighs 13^ tons. 
 
 A Moscow lady told me that she travelled lately from Ix>ndon to 
 Bristol in one hour and a half, adding with astonishment, "And it 
 must be at least 1 50 versts ! " 
 
 In the region of Lake Baikal, I am told, the mountains are not 
 very lofty. In the Altai range— 600 versts to the south-west of 
 Baikal — they attain a considerable height, e.g. Katunsk is 12,790 
 feet; in Kashgaria 21,000 feet, in Kamschalka 15,825 feet. I left 
 my card upon the Archbishop of Moscow, but did not trouble him 
 with a personal visit. Russian bishops only speak their own language, 
 and it is irksome to interview them through an interpreter, unless for 
 some special reason. 
 
 One evening during my stay in Moscow I went with Mr. Besant 
 to the Sebastopol station — a fine new building — to see the trans- 
 Siberian train start upon its 6000 miles journey to the Pacific. He 
 knew the officials on the route, having been engineer on the first 
 section of the line. We were therefore shown ever)thing under 
 good auspices. The train consisted of ten carriages, such as I saw 
 being made at Riga two years before. It seemed full of passengers, 
 mostly second-class. All were Russians, Easterns, or foreigners of 
 some kind ; not an Englishman amongst them, or apparently a 
 Western European. I thought how dreary it would be if I were 
 going that journey in such a company. It takes twenty-seven days 
 to reach Port Arthur, for at present the journey is a broken one, 
 the service over Lake Baikal being effected by steamer. When the 
 line is completed round the south end of the lake, passengers will 
 be able to occupy the same carriage through the entire journey, which 
 will take about a fortnight. The corridor passage-way seemed to 
 me too narrow in proportion to the carriages, the dining-car too 
 small; but I was told passengers can and do take meals in 
 their compartments. Each first-class passenger has a compartment 
 to himself, like the cabin of a ship. There is a bathroom, which 
 I should think, judging by the appearance of the jxisscngers, an 
 Englishman travelling by the train would have entirely to himself. 
 In it is a dummy cycle, on which to take exercise on gelling 
 out of the bath. An engine for making electricity stands in a van
 
 346 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 next the locomotive. Each train carries its own doctor and a 
 manager, who has his own cabin or office, to whom all reference or 
 complaint is made. A bookcase full of books and a piano are 
 provided to while away the tedium of the journey. When Siberia 
 is reached a church car, fitted for the services of the Orthodox 
 Church, is attached to the train. Services are held at every station 
 where the train stops for half an hour ; any one in the train or in 
 the neighbourhood can attend them. In the first-class waiting- 
 room of the station stands a very large ikon, railed in, and set 
 round with plants and evergreens. This is for passengers to perform 
 their devotions at before starting upon their long and lonesome 
 journey. An ample lady, much be-furred and be-velveted, was 
 performing her devotions before it as I sat there ; and an officer in 
 uniform entered, crossed himself before it, bowed, and went out 
 again. It was with a feeling of almost awe that I heard the third 
 and last bell sound, and saw the last embraces given upon the 
 platform ; then the signal for the start, and then the slow moving 
 away, the waving of hands, the smiling or solemn faces disappear- 
 ing into the darkness eastwards. 
 
 The Governesses' Home in Moscow, which I visited, is now an 
 important institution, for the accession of English governesses is 
 considerable in Russia, since the Court language is no longer 
 French but English. It did not seem to me to be quite up to its 
 requirements ; though warm and snug, the rooms appeared too 
 small, and not particularly cheerful. 
 
 Upon a gloriously brilliant afternoon, 16 February, I took a drive 
 through the Kremlin. The sunset flashing on those grandly-coloured 
 old Tartar walls and towers was superb. And such a view over 
 Moscow as I have rarely seen : the thousands of domes and towers, 
 all burnished and glittering with gold and every rainbow colour, 
 stretching away into the distance far as the eye could reach. I 
 never saw it equalled. A new statue of the late Emperor had been 
 erected upon the Kremlin terrace since I was last here. It is of 
 bronze, under a pointed canopy. An open colonnade runs at right 
 angles round it, furnished with the same canopies on the front 
 angles. It is most incongruous to all its surroundings, and most 
 unfortunate in its design, looking for all the world Uke a cafe or 
 casino in the midst of its savage Oriental entourage. 
 
 The FoundUng Hospital in Moscow is the largest building in the 
 city ; one thousand babies are brought in every week, i.e. fifty-two
 
 1902] TWELVE HISTORICAL RIVERS 347 
 
 thousand per annum ! They are kept there three weeks, and then 
 taken to institutions in the country. They arc treated very rouj;hly, 
 and many die. When grown the boys go into the army. I am 
 afraid that Russia is a very bad country in this respect, but it can 
 hardly be otherwise. The people darkly ignorant ; there is Uttle 
 or no preaching, and therefore no teaching in the Greek ('hurch ; 
 and even the services, being in Sclav, are not understood by the 
 people. 
 
 From Moscow I travelled to Warsaw, several kind Moscow friends 
 coming to see me off and wish me (Jod-speed. I was uM that it 
 matters not in what quarter the wind may be at Moscow, it is so far 
 inland that all winds have to blow over some two thousand miles of 
 German, Polish, and Russian snow before reaching it, and by that time 
 the south-west becomes a bitter wind. Rain, as a rule, comes from 
 the east, i.e. from the Pacific. 
 
 I awoke to a brilliant morning, and found that we were stamping 
 over the endless steppes, and making our way through the dense 
 forests of pine and birch which mark Russian travel more or less 
 from the German frontier to the Pacific, and from the Baltic to the 
 Black Sea. When up and dressed I called upon Prufessor Hechler, 
 of Vienna, who was travelling in the same train with me to Warsaw. 
 Another fellow-traveller was a German, who had come from Pekin. 
 He was at Tien-Tsin all through the Boxer rising, and was now on 
 his way back to America. On this journey we had to pull up in the oi>en 
 by reason, I was told, of the oil having frozen. I thought of getting 
 out and looking round, but dared not, the prospect of being left to 
 the tender mercies of the bears and wolves of the forest was not 
 pleasant. Upon this journey I crossed no less than twelve historical 
 rivers— the Rhine, Elbe, Oder, Niemen, Vistula, Dwina, Neva, Volga, 
 Dneiper, Beresina, Danube, and Moldau. 
 
 At Warsaw I was the guest of Mrs. Kiemmcns, her son being our 
 Vice-Consul. It was well I did not visit KielTwhen in Poland, for a 
 rising took place in that city, as was anticipated, and the Cossacks 
 killed and wounded many people in the streets. This would have 
 coincided exactly with the time of my projected visit. I was told 
 that the Austrian Poles would elect to become Russian subjects 
 rather than German, should the Pan-German movement take effect 
 at the death of the Emperor Francis Joseph. " ICnvy," wrote Bismarck, 
 " is the national vice of the Germans. They cannot bear to sec any 
 one hold a high and leading position." This, u{ coun^c, reierrcd to
 
 348 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 himself, but it is true also of Germany as a nation, and lies at the root 
 of German feeling towards England. 
 
 My young Polish friend Zygmund Moczarska, whom I confirmed 
 when here upon a former visit, had got into political trouble. He 
 was in the habit of inviting young men to his mother's house, 
 and reading with them a revolutionary history of Poland, which is 
 forbidden in this country. The poUce came to the house one even- 
 ing and took him away. He was confined for eight months in the 
 fortress at Warsaw, and when let out was placed under surveillance. 
 He was not allowed to live with his mother out in the country, but 
 only to visit her for the day, returning to Warsaw at night, having to 
 report himself to the police daily. Dr. EUis, our chaplain, told me 
 that he did not think Moczarska would be allowed to come and see 
 me. But he managed to attend the confirmation, and was delighted 
 to meet me again. He said, " You told the confirmation candidates 
 to-day to say the same collect daily that you told us to say when I was 
 confirmed, that for the second Sunday in Lent, the dates coinciding." 
 To which I replied, " I hope you have done what I told you." 
 " Not every day, but I have written it out." " That is right," I said, 
 "tell the truth." 
 
 The Russians were writing of us in connexion with the Japanese 
 alliance : " England never allows Russia to fulfil her national aspira- 
 tions. We wanted to expand in the near East, and take Con- 
 stantinople. England forbade us. We want to reach open water 
 in the Persian Gulf. England tells us she cannot allow any move- 
 ment in that direction. We want in the Far East to develop an 
 empire in regions misruled by China. England meets us there also, 
 and orders us to abandon our aspirations." 
 
 The Poles were amongst the few continental nations not against 
 us in the South African War. A Polish boy, whose brother I con- 
 firmed, wrote to General BuUer expressing his admiration of his 
 conduct in the relief of Ladysmith. BuUer sent him a gratified 
 reply. He also wrote to the same effect to Lord Roberts, to which 
 his secretary replied. His father, a Pole, told me of this with great 
 delight. 
 
 Block, the eminent writer, on our side, upon the Boer War, died in 
 Warsaw just before I arrived. He was a great loss to our cause. I 
 wish I had met him. 
 
 When at Warsaw I heard that revolutionary riots had broken out 
 amongst the students at Petersburg after I left, as was anticipated.
 
 I902] TERRIBLE STORIES 3^,^ 
 
 Hundreds of arrests were made, and the university was in ron 
 sequence closed. The Daily Telegraph reached us in Warsaw, the 
 columns containing an account of these riots obliterated with what 
 is ironically called " Russian cavair." 
 
 From Warsaw I went to Vienna, travelling in a reservc-d compart- 
 ment, and made very comfortable by the arrangement of our Vice- 
 Consul. Crossing the frontier at Granitza, near Cracow, I reached 
 Vienna on the morning of 26 February, and travelled direct to 
 Buda-Pesth. The miser>' of Austrian and Hungarian travel is 
 great ; I do not know which is the worse. 
 
 Professor Hechler, of Vienna, who was with me at Petersburg, 
 told me a terrible stor}' he heard when there. An English 
 governess returning from our church one Sunday evening was not 
 heard of again. Suspicion was aroused, and it was feared she had 
 been made away with. Her body was ultimately found hastily 
 buried in a barrack-yard. The matter came to the Emperor and 
 Empress's knowledge, and it was believed that the soldiers impli- 
 cated had been deported, probably to Siberia. He told of another 
 very terrible case of the same kind as having happened in Peters- 
 burg. A young fellow came out to join his brother, who was an 
 engineer. The brother, through some mistake, did not meet him at 
 the station. As he did not turn up in due course, inquir)- was made, 
 but nothing could be heard of him. Some days after he was found 
 in a dying condition lying outside in the open, and just able to 
 state that he had been driven to some vile place, ill-treated, and 
 then driven away as an outcast. 
 
 Professor Hechler told me that Mr. Wishall, with whom he stayed 
 when in Petersburg, never allowed him to go out at night unaccom- 
 panied ; and I noticed that after dining out one night at Warsaw 
 my host walked back with me to the house at which I was staying. 
 I urged that it was only a few doors off, but he insisted upon my 
 not going alone. 
 
 Since I was last in Buda-Pesth the twin cities had grown im- 
 mensely. On the heights of Buda had risen a really ver>' grand 
 palace for the Austrian Emperor when he stays here as King 
 of Hungar)'. It is a structure of vast size and magnificent design, 
 spreading over a large area of the rocks upon which the old palace 
 stood, and to which the present building is an addition. Four 
 domelettes— at each comer one — a central dome, surmounted by 
 the ever-present crown of Hungary, which the Hungarians reproduce
 
 350 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 upon every possible occasion. It is surmounted by a bent cross — 
 bent when buried and hidden from the Turks. Lower down the 
 Danube a massive iron bridge has been built. During my stay 
 at Buda-Pesth I was the guest of our excellent and kindly Charge 
 d' Affaires, Mr, Conway Thornton, who passed away to his rest very 
 shortly after I left him, apparently in perfect health. 
 
 One evening during my visit I met at dinner Count Apponyi, 
 speaker of the Hungarian Parliament. A remarkable man and 
 exceedingly able, with whom I had much conversation upon the 
 political situation in Hungary. He wished me to be present at a 
 debate; but as the house opens at 10 a.m. and rises at 2 p.m. I 
 could not manage it. He is Hungarian to the backbone. Opposite 
 upon the same occasion sat Vambery, the Central Asian traveller, 
 with whom later on in the evening I had much conversation upon 
 his travels. He is a great friend of our King. Shortly after I met 
 Vambery the King conferred upon him the Victorian Order, "in 
 recognition of his unvarying friendship to England." He had been 
 staying lately at Sandringham, and when he speaks of England it is 
 always with unfeigned admiration. He knows and stays with many 
 of our nobility when in England, and is never weary of singing the 
 praises of everything English. He waxed eloquent on the Boer 
 War, in which he is, of course, our strong ally. In his eyes Russia 
 can do nothing right. He agreed with me that she has her hands 
 full for many years to come, but wonders what she will do when the 
 trans-Siberian Railway is finished and Siberia settled. I said 
 there was no occasion to wonder or fear yet, as she had her work cut 
 out for her in Siberia for centuries to come. "Yes," he said, 
 " Russia has swallowed a huge part of the world, but she cannot 
 digest it." Vambery acted as interpreter between the German 
 Emperor and the Sultan upon the occasion of the Kaiser's visit to 
 Constantinople. He is a great and very interesting talker, having 
 seen the world and taken good stock of it. Put him down in any 
 country, no matter in what company, and he would hold his own, 
 speaking as he does almost every language likely to be used, and 
 knowing the history and politics of every country. In the course of 
 his travels he has been Mohammedan, Sunnite, Shiite, Hadji, and I 
 know not what else. I was sorry to miss seeing Count Karyoli, 
 who died a month before I reached Buda-Pesth. He was a friend 
 of Mr. Thornton. 
 
 Professor Hechler told me that when war was declared between
 
 1902] HUNGARIAN HOUSKS OK I'ARl.lAMKNT ^5, 
 
 France and Germany in 1S70 ihc old Kaiser said there must be a 
 " Buss und bet tag," i.e. a day of repentance and prayer. On that 
 day everything had to be laid aside, although the l'>cn< h were 
 pressing on, and the Germans were saying that they ought to U- 
 getting on too, or they would be too late. "No," said the old 
 Christian soldier, "Buss und bet tag first and foremost." And 
 first and foremost it was ; everything had to stand still till it wxs 
 over. 
 
 One day during my stay at Buda-Pesth Count Apponyi called and 
 drove me in his carriage to the new Parliament Houses, over which 
 he showed me from one end to the other. They are said to be, and 
 I suppose are, the finest in the world, except our own. They stand 
 fronting the Danube, are Gothic throughout, richly decorated and 
 adorned within, and abounding in mural paintings of high art. The 
 central stairway leads to a rotunda, in which both houses can and do 
 sit together when occasion requires. From this richly-marbled and 
 decorated, groined chamber, corridors lead off to the two houses ; 
 those on the left to the House of Representatives, those on the 
 right to the House of Nobles. The houses are equal in size, and 
 identical in arrangement and decoration. An amphitheatre of scats 
 is cut off at the end of the Speaker's Gallery, which is an ambon 
 reached by a double flight of steps. It is not a speaker's " chair," 
 as with us. The enrichments of this chamber are of the same order 
 as the stairway and domed hall, highly chased and reflecting every 
 colour of the rainbow. In fact, the decorations are difliicult to 
 describe ; they are so bizarre. It seats 452 members. The Chamber 
 of Nobles is, as already stated, the same in every respect as the 
 Chamber of Representatives. The dining-room is long, and rather 
 dark ; the walls filled with large landscape views of various parts of 
 the empire, Transylvania, Bosnia, etc. From this chamber openings 
 lead out to the balcony, giving a superb view of the Danube, Buda, 
 and its heights. There are innumerable lobbies, corridors, and 
 rooms for each cabinet minister. The first session was to be held 
 in these new buildings in the autumn. The Emperor-King does not 
 open Parliament, nor does he ever appear there; the ministers attend 
 him in his palace and he gives them permission to open it. I drove 
 out to Buda one day and left cards upon Count Apponyi, and also 
 upon Szel, the Prime Minister of Hungary, who has been our good 
 friend all through the war, defending us in the Hungarian Parliament 
 and elsewhere. Mr. Thornton begged me to make this call, as he
 
 352 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 said Szel would appreciate it, and deserved English gratitude and 
 recognition. 
 
 The church of St. Matthias at Buda is an historic one, for the 
 crown of Hungary is kept there, but the building is not worth see- 
 ing. The Park Club at Pesth is a miracle of terrible luxury. It 
 baffles description. The most exquisitely sumptuous building for 
 the purpose that can possibly exist in all the world. One man of 
 wealth and culture has made it his study, and has brought it to its 
 present uttermost perfection. It is scarcely exaggeration to call it, 
 after the Parliament Houses, the sight of Buda-Pesth. Saloons, 
 cabinet-rooms, endless suites of all sizes, shapes, designs are 
 scattered and grouped in every direction from the entrance-hall, 
 dining-rooms, and drawing-rooms. Card- and gaming-rooms below. 
 Upstairs an exquisite ballroom, around which again are suites of 
 promenade- and drawing-rooms, adorned with fresco paintings and 
 works of art, the furniture too beautiful almost to use. One expects 
 to see not royalties moving about and sitting in them, but fairies 
 whose wands have created all this loveliness, grace, and beauty. A 
 chapter out of the Arabian Nights. Pompeii in all its sinful softness 
 must have been but a poor forecast of this twentieth-century palace. 
 It was a relief to get out of the place, lest one might meet the Prince 
 of this world lurking about in some secret place of his habitation. 
 
 From Buda-Pesth I went to Vienna, where I was the guest of 
 Sir Francis and Lady Plunkett at the British Embassy. Here I 
 preached and confirmed in the Embassy chapel, which had been 
 a good deal improved since I was here last. The east window 
 filled in memory of the Jubilee, the other windows filled, and the 
 structure otherwise brightened and made more church-like. 
 
 One day I drove out with Professor Hechler to the River "Jordan" 
 at ModHng, in Sir Moses Montefiore's travelling coach, in which he 
 drove to Jerusalsm ! A wondrous structure, which he gave to the 
 Professor. Inside are cupboards and nooks for food and clothing ; 
 outside a sort of hooded rumble like a hansom cab ; on the top 
 cases for luggage. The sort of home on wheels that Noah might 
 have designed when the earth was dry enough for him to drive 
 about upon. What astonished me more than the scenery of the 
 " Jordan " or even the Noachic carriage, was the fact that a pair of 
 Hungarian horses took it at a high speed those thirty kilometres 
 (twenty miles), stood at the door of the house where we refreshed 
 for fifteen minutes, and scarcely touched by the whip either way,
 
 I902] NATIONAL MUSKIJM, VIKNNA 353 
 
 trundled us merrily hack to Vienna the return thirty kilonictrcs, 
 the roads being unmetalled and about as bad as they well could 
 be. Where can we show English horses to etjual that? Horses 
 are cheap as well as good in Hungary. I asked the price of a 
 pretty little pair about fifteen hands, and was told they would be 
 about £ze ! 
 
 Mr. Millbank, First Secretary of the Embassy, told me that he was 
 in charge here when the Duke of Edinburgh passed through 
 Vienna on his way from Herculesbad in Hungary. The Vienna 
 doctors dared not operate for cancer lest he should die under the 
 operation. His mouth and throat were in a terrible state, swollen 
 and disfigured. Mr. Millbank had to inform the Queen that he 
 could not live. He left Vienna on a Wednesday, and died the next 
 Monday. 
 
 The pictures in the National Museum at Vienna are a great irc.u. 
 On the staircase is a colossal "Theseus slaying the MinoLiur." This 
 was ordered by Napoleon I to represent his invasion and slaying of 
 Russia. As things turned out, Russia practically invaded and slew 
 him. He could not even pay for the sculpture, and it was bought 
 by the Emperor of Austria. A Poelenlurch, equal to a denird 
 Dow, and yet I never heard of the painter. A Jan van der Heyde, 
 who painted villages of old red brick with church spires, is 
 always attractive. A glorious Hondcrkoeter, " Hofer raising the 
 Tyrolese against Napoleon," is powerful. " Finding a Runaway," by 
 Kurzbauer, is a clever picture. "The Betrothal of Ludwig to a 
 Spanish Princess," by Drozit, is almost life-sized and most remark- 
 able. " Nie Ziiruck " illustrates the Austrian North Pole Expedition, 
 representing the explorers in uttermost extremity upon the ice on a 
 dark, bleak, wicked day. The figures are very terrible in their 
 weakness, agony, and death. 
 
 After much delightful hospitality and many pleasant gatherings at 
 the Embassy, I left, for the last time I regret to add— my kind friends 
 Sir F, and Lady Plunkett, always so genuinely pleased to welcome 
 and entertain me — and travelled to 1 )resden via Prague. The .scenery 
 along the Moldau is pretty, but that in passing to the Up|)cr Ellx: is 
 far finer, Aussig is very picturesque, and from liodcnbach, the 
 frontier, the route lies through the beautiful Saxon Switzerland all 
 the way to Dresden. At .Schandau the rocks become ver)- quaint 
 and fantastic, worn away and disintegrated by ages of alternation of 
 rain and frost. They stand up like castles of all sizes, shajx-s. and 
 2 A
 
 354 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 architecture, assuming the form of single towers, pillars, obelisks. 
 Nature seems to have been for countless centuries on the freak ; 
 there never was surely such a meeting-ground for such pranks as she 
 has played amongst these sandstone gorges of the Elbe. The 
 famous Bastei Rock is, of course, the most remarkable, the largest, 
 most prominent, and wildly rent of all. 
 
 At Dresden, where I was received and entertained most kindly 
 and hospitably by Lord and Lady Gough, I had a letter from Mr. 
 Fry, of Berlin, telling me the terrible story of the young French man- 
 servant who waited upon me at his house when I went up to Russia, 
 and who had disappeared so mysteriously a few days after. " You 
 will be shocked to hear that the murdered body of Louis Gaudin 
 was found three days ago in a deep pool on the Tempel Hof Plain — 
 a disreputable part of Berlin. His head had been slashed by sabre- 
 cuts, and his clothes bore marks of a severe struggle, so that no 
 doubt he was robbed and murdered, and his body thrown into the 
 ' French pool,' so called because in 1870 the French prisoners were 
 encamped there, and ever since the murder the pool has been 
 frozen over." At Dresden I did the round of work, ecclesiastical and 
 social, which always awaits me in that busy chaplaincy, as organized 
 by my indefatigable friend and chaplain, Mr. Moore, and then went 
 to Leipzig. 
 
 The Paris Figaro writes of us concerning the Boer War : " Eng- 
 land without a murmur breaks her gigantic savings-box, out of 
 which the gold flows over all the markets of Europe and America. 
 She buys, without counting the cost, all the forage, horses, and 
 mules she can find in the world. And among that nation of prac- 
 tical merchants, only yesterday so justly proud of their national 
 finance, no one, or almost no one, was found to blame that un- 
 bounded prodigality which is still draining the savings of England. 
 The people seem to say, ' Let our finance perish rather than our 
 prestige.' It may be objected that these sacrifices are made in a 
 detestable cause. We do not forget it. But if haughty impassibility 
 in reverses, stoical firmness under the most cruel disappointments, 
 and unspeakable resolution to conquer at any price do not constitute 
 a superb spectacle of constancy, and are not worthy of admiration, in 
 truth we wonder what can be required of a people that is great." 
 And this tribute while France was hating us with a deep and bitter 
 hatred. 
 
 At Leipzig my host, Mr. Bosworth, kindly showed me all the sights
 
 1902] A CITY OF MAN\' INTKRKSTS 355 
 
 of that most interesting city, and Ihuy arc many. Ihc National 
 Museum of Pictures is full of good [)ainiing. A fine canvas by 
 Koch represents the breaking up of the Krench luirassicrs at 
 Sedan, the grey horses scattered, some ridden, many riderless, over 
 that fatal slope at Floen, upon which I have stood and endeavoured 
 to realize the hideous carnage. Napoleon at Kontaineblcau before 
 being sent to Elba, October, 1813, is a fine picture. Some good 
 old Dutch pictures, too numerous to notice in detail— Wcenix, 
 Berchem, Van Goyen, etc. In the entrance-hail is a very {Miwcrful 
 bronze life-sized figure of Judas rushing along in despair after the 
 betrayal. He holds his head bowed down in his hands as if fleeing 
 from all the devils in hell. 
 
 The new university is a fine building, entered by a very striking 
 hall, richly adorned with frescoes. The Sieges Denkmal at I^eipzig 
 is historic, not sentimental, and therefore less interesting than most 
 of the German war monuments. All is bron/e upon polished 
 granite. On the summit stands Victory ; in the centre is a large 
 relief; the old Kaiser sits crowned with laurel. At each comer on 
 horseback stand the Saxon King, the Crown Prince Krederirk, 
 Bismarck, and Moltke. Between each a private soldier of differing 
 services. The inscriptions are as follows : " Enkel morgen kraft- 
 voU walten schwer errungenes zu erhalten." " May the grandchildren 
 strive earnestly to maintain what cost so great an effort." On the 
 north side, " Unsre Brueder haben freudig fuer das Reich den Tod 
 erlitten." " Our brethren have gladly suffered death for the empire." 
 On the eastern face, " Unsre vaeter heisses sehnen I )eutschlands 
 einheit ist erstritten." "German unity, the eager longing of our 
 fathers, has been achieved." Immediately behind this monument 
 is one of the oldest houses in Leipzig, with no less than five stories 
 of windows in the immensely high-pitched roof. An old house in 
 this Johannes Platz was pointed out to me, in which were found 
 cannon-balls shot by Napoleon's army in 1S13. The Jews' street — 
 Bruhlstrasse — is old and picturesque; the last house before the 
 square is that in which ^^'agner was bom. 
 
 We visited the spot on the Elster where Poniatowski, the list of 
 the Kings of Poland, was drowned during the Battle of Leipzig. His 
 horse was shot, and he got entangled in the melee. Like all 
 the other little rivers flowing through the city, it is small, though a 
 deep and swiftly running, treacherous stream. Then, no doubt, 
 flowing between grassy, wooded banks, in the country ; now mshing
 
 356 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 along through dense streets, and confined between strong masonry. 
 A monument stands on the spot, probably at that time a lonely spot 
 in the woods. All four rivers — Elster, Plesse, Parthe, and Luppe — 
 are thus stone-channelled as they flow through the city. The old 
 Stadthaus is an exceedingly grand pile, built about a.d. 1550. Not 
 far off is the Auerbach Keller, where Goethe wrote his Faxist. 
 The Gewerbe Museum contains a very remarkable collection of 
 Japanese works of art of a very high order. They are, indeed, 
 superbly magnificent ; grand bronzes such as I have never seen else- 
 where ; exquisite models of temples, enamelling, gold, embroidery, 
 etc. In another museum is much good sculpture, some of tinted 
 marble by Klinger. Works also by Dr. Lange, a rising sculptor. 
 
 Our church, in which I preached and confirmed, had been much 
 improved, but needs still further improvement. 
 
 I revisited the picture gallery to take stock of the modern pictures, 
 which are exceedingly good. A Norwegian scene, " Hochgebirgs 
 einode " (" The Jewel of the High Mountains "), by Carl Ludwig, is a 
 gem as well as its subject. The Romsdal Fiord, by Carl Oesterley. 
 Four fine portraits of the old Kaiser, Bismarck, Moltke, and the King 
 of Saxony, all by Lensbach, the great German portrait painter, are 
 perfect. C. Dietrich has a good "Viehhof" (a cattle-yard.) Cain 
 killing Abel in a wild, rocky district by a mountain torrent, by 
 Drolling, is pathetically graphic, but intensely sad. 
 
 The Students' Conservatorium of Music is very handsome. How 
 much these Leipzigers do for music ! In the park is a bronze statue 
 of Bismarck, with his big boar-hound at his side. A life-sized 
 German workman, of which class Bismarck was ever the strong 
 champion, stands at his feet presenting to him a palm branch. 
 
 From Leipzig I travelled to Weimar. The park through which 
 the Ilm flows is quiet, peaceful and beautiful. If one lived in 
 Weimar, it would be a great boon. In it is Schiller's Garten-house, 
 a small cottage where he lived in summer. The old tower of the 
 palace in the park is very picturesque. It is well seen from the 
 bridge, the view from which is charming. After doing my work I 
 went to Cassel. Here also the park through which the Fulda flows 
 is very beautifully wooded. It is reached through the Aur Thor war 
 monument, upon which are medallions, representing soldiers under 
 arms. On the side of the arch stands what may be called Germany's 
 motto, "Gott mit uns " \ on the other side, "Gott war mit uns." 
 
 Wilhelmshohe, Napoleon Ill's beautiful prison in 1870, looked its
 
 '902| SEDAN AND BAZEILLKS 357 
 
 best in its early spring dress. I had not wandered about ihcsc 
 perfect grounds for twelve years, and was glad to renew my delight- 
 ful impression of their beauties. 
 
 From Cassel I went to Frankfurt and Heidelberg, at which place 
 I confirmed the boys of the two English colleges, and then left for 
 Aix-la-Chapelle, where on 26 March, in a blinding snowstorm, 1 
 dedicated the little iron church, a good many (ierman and town 
 officials being present. From Ai.x-la-Chapelle 1 returned dii<' • '" 
 England by way of Antwerp and Harwich. 
 
 On 12 May I was away again for Brussels via Ostend, where 1 
 confirmed en route. At Brussels I was the guest of Mr. (now 
 Sir Constantine) Phipps at the Legation. On the i4ih I drove with 
 Mr. Phipps to Christchurch, which I consecrated, the chaplains of 
 Bruges, Antwerp, Ohent, Spa, and Brussels, being present. A public 
 luncheon afterwards, at which speeches, etc. 
 
 On my way from Brussels to Paris I travelled with Mr. Connor, of 
 Diisseldorf, to Sedan via Namur and Dinan, to Mezieres. The route 
 is pretty, notably where the Lesse joins the Meuse. At Hastiere is a 
 fine old abbey-church. Arriving at Sedan before dark, we explored 
 the now dead and almost buried town which has never recovered 
 I September, 1S70. We went to the Prefecture where Napoleon 
 slept on that memorable night as described by Zola in his DcIhuU. 
 The lodge where the girl Rosie provided the white table-cloth of 
 surrender I looked at with much interest. There were the windows 
 of the room on the left of the house to and from which the pcxjr 
 distracted Emperor walked, his hands to his shattered head, exclaim- 
 ing, " Oh, those guns, will they never cease ! they must have seen 
 our fiag." The next morning I was up early, and away to Bazeilles, 
 four miles distant, in the tram, passing through Balan en route. 
 
 Bazeilles was so utterly smashed up, pounded, pulverized by shot 
 and shell, and burnt, that what there is of it is practically a new 
 place, only portions of six semi-surviving houses remaining. It con- 
 tained in 1870 about 1500 inhabitants. The railway crosses the 
 Meuse here by a bridge which played no small part on i September. 
 I walked up the road towards Givonne, which further on falls into 
 the Route Nationale to Bouillon and Belgium. It runs along the 
 little stream that was lined on its eastern bank by Bavarians, and the 
 Crown Prince of Saxony's army ; and on the western bank, at short 
 range, stood the 3rd and nth French Army Corps. "U mais.)n 
 de la derniere cartouche " lies about two-thirds of the way bctwtx-n
 
 358 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 Sedan and Bazeilles. The old Balan gate of Sedan and its fortifica- 
 tions are a mere wreck, smashed and crushed up into a chaotic mass 
 of jagged, jammed masonry. It is therefore difficult to trace the 
 exact lines and waymarks of that time, but we worked hard with a 
 plan of the whole place and environs, and I think, in the main, 
 mastered it. 
 
 We then took the train out to Donchery, and entered the little 
 towny village. There were the narrow streets and the small market- 
 place with the old church on one side of it, a lazar-house and prison 
 choked with French prisoners and wounded soldiers, as described 
 by Russell and Forbes. Now so quiet and peaceful, asleep, clean, 
 and well kept. 
 
 Passing through the town and over the old stone bridge which 
 spans the Meuse, we came upon a squadron of lancers and a detach- 
 ment of infantry manoeuvring. The cavalry were dashing and 
 galloping up and down the chaussee as if the Germans were at their 
 heels. It was a strange coincidence to find all this going on at such 
 a place, recalling so vividly what had been enacted there in much 
 larger and sterner reality thirty-two years before. Through these 
 rushing detachments of cavalry and infantry we made our way to the 
 weaver's house, situated just off the Route Nationale between 
 Donchery and Sedan. It is called " Maison de Mons. Tisserand," 
 after the owner of that date. 
 
 Here we stayed for some time and thoroughly explored the cottage 
 and its surroundings. It consists of two tenements, not three as 
 Forbes states — that in which Napoleon met Bismarck and Moltke is at 
 the end towards Sedan. An old woman, the present occupant, was by 
 no means uncivil, but said she had not the key of the room in which 
 Napoleon took refuge and was interviewed by Bismarck. That room, 
 however, was only occupied for a few minutes by the two great men, 
 and therefore its being locked did not much matter. She showed us 
 all over the rest of the little house. It is a dirty old place, but 
 absorbingly interesting. One enters at once upon a sort of common 
 entrance-room and kitchen. To the left is a small bedroom, where 
 an old man was in bed, groaning as if a German bullet was in his 
 stomach. From the window of this room the old woman gave me 
 some geranium cuttings. From the corner of the entrance-room 
 referred to, a dark, rickety wooden staircase abutting upon a small 
 back sitting-room leads to the upper story. It is but a one-storied 
 cottage. The old woman kept begging me not to fall, and indeed
 
 I902] THE WEAVER'S COTTAGE 351; 
 
 there was need of care, for the rotten banister tottered and the stairs 
 creaked dismally. Amidst her ejaculations of " Prenez [^ardc, 
 monsieur, prenez garde," she was particular to add, " Mais c'est le 
 veritable escalier par lequel I'Empereur et Mon. Bismarck firent 
 I'ascente." It leads into a red-tiled apartment, red iiled as rightly 
 stated by Forbes. Over the old bed-ridden man's room is the little 
 locked-up chamber facing the road in which Napoleon and Bismarck 
 conversed for a few minutes, until it was suggested they should sit 
 outside the cottage and talk, for it was, no doubt, stuffy on that hot 
 September day, and probably as dirty then as now. The old woman 
 told us that two chairs were taken out of the house for the two great 
 men to sit upon, and were placed just by the window of the old 
 man's bedroom. Two little plots of garden ground stand before the 
 cottage surrounded by a ragged hedge of mixed shrubs and roses. 
 There was the Uttle vegetable garden on the Sedan side of the cottage, 
 and another patch behind, called by Forbes the "potato garden," 
 in which the unhappy Emperor paced to and fro, to avoid observation 
 from the road, while Bismarck rode to Vendresse to consult the 
 Kaiser, 
 
 I do not doubt that the fallen monarch took refuge in this 
 wretched, lone-standing dwelling to avoid the crowded streets and 
 square of Donchery, and to get out of the high road to Sedan, 
 which were no doubt crowded with German soldiers and French 
 prisoners. What a relief it must have been to the fallen monarch 
 when he was taken a mile nearer Sedan and lodged in the Chateau 
 Bellevue. Forbes tells us that the Crown Prince and his staff were 
 — with himself — lying on the grass slope just across the road where 
 they could hear the murmur of the Emperor's and Chancellor's 
 voices, but could not distinguish what was said. The voices, he tells 
 us, were at times raised to excitement, if not more, when the terms 
 insisted upon by Bismarck were protested against by the Emperor. 
 There was the narrow grassy slope on the other side of the road by 
 the hedge, and beyond, the meadows falling down to the Meuse. 
 Nothing could possibly be clearer than the whole scene. 
 
 In the rear of the cottage is a small square stone outhouse, the 
 only approach to a jjicturesquc item upon the poor, squalid premises. 
 A large stretch of country and hill lies spread before the cottage, 
 and Moltke might well have pointed, as stated, to a section of un- 
 limbered guns — part of the iron girdle encompassing the doomed 
 Sedan — their gunners ready to reopen fire at 10 a.m.. as threatened,
 
 36o CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 if the capitulation was not signed before that hour. This scene, 
 however, probably took place in front of Chateau Bellevue, the 
 ground in front of which lends itself better to the story, if true. A 
 battery did stand upon the field in front of the chateau, commanding 
 the western end of the town of Sedan. 
 
 From the weaver's cottage to Chateau Bellevue is a delightful 
 walk of about one mile and a half, by the tree-bordered Route 
 Nationale, along which the squadron of lancers were now passing 
 on their way back to Sedan. We thought they did not look at us 
 with very friendly faces as we stood by the weaver's cottage, for 
 they must have known we were English, taking stock of the scene 
 of their national overthrow. The road mounts gently to higher 
 ground upon which the chateau stands, the Meuse flowing below 
 on the left, and the heights of Frenois looking down from the right, 
 upon which the Crown Prince and his staff watched the operations 
 of I September. The old Kaiser's position was about a mile further 
 upon the Crown Prince's right, i.e. eastward, immediately above 
 Sedan and the village of Wadelincourt. The position is in front 
 of a wood, and dominates the whole area of operations from 
 Bazeilles on the east to far-away Mezieres on the west, overlooking 
 the winding, tortuous Meuse, which writhes like a mighty silver 
 serpent through the valley beneath to the forested heights of the 
 Belgian frontier. In the meadows below and behind the Chateau 
 Bellevue lay a large section of the Wurtemberg army, covering the 
 railway and the road upon the right bank to Donchery and 
 Mezieres. 
 
 The chateau is a large building, with capped towers, well placed 
 for a double view, the front gates and entrance looking down over 
 Sedan, the garden front down on to the Meuse. Upon the field 
 in front of the entrance gates — now a clover field, in which bees 
 hummed peacefully instead of angry shells — stood one of those 
 terrible iron links — a battery of field guns — by which Moltke had 
 girded the doomed city. Two weeping willows, apt emblems of 
 what they had witnessed, mourn over the entrance gates. Here in 
 this historic chateau the Emperor Napoleon delivered his sword to 
 King William. Here slept the fallen Emperor his last sleep — if he 
 slept at all — upon French soil before being taken to Wilhelmshohe. 
 Forbes tells us that he found in his bedroom upon a little table by 
 the bedside Bulwer Lytton's Last of the Barons turned down where 
 he had left the story. It was a chilly night ; a window-curtain had
 
 I902J THE CAPTIVE EMPEROR 361 
 
 been torn down to lay upon the Emperor's bed. It is a tragic 
 place and one that brings strange weird thoughts to one's mind. 
 
 From the chateau we walked on by a narrower side road by the 
 edge of the clover field to the suburb of Glaire, by which side road 
 Napoleon must have been taken to Bouillon, to avoid passing 
 through the exasperated army, crowded, crushed, and cursing in 
 the streets and squares of Sedan. So far as I could make out by the 
 route taken, he must have passed along the northern edge of the 
 promontory of Iges, where one hundred thousand of his soldiers 
 were soon to be shut up in what was known as the " Camp of 
 Misery." If so, the road lay — after doubling that promontory — by 
 the hard-fought portion of the several battlefields of i September, 
 i.e. Floeing, and the Calvary at Illy, where the strongest but utterly 
 ineffectual stand was made to cut off the'Germans from completing 
 the iron girdle to the north and west of Sedan. Here it was at 
 Floeing that the French cuirassiers on their grey horses were 
 annihilated. If this was the Emperor's route, he must have seen 
 a terrible sight indeed upon that field of death and destruction. 
 At Glaire one comes upon the canal which makes the peninsula of 
 Iges into an island, and is crossed by a bridge. The chateau of 
 Glaire is passed in its pretty grounds on the left, soon after entering 
 the peninsula or island of Iges, and then a water-mill. The road 
 to Iges then mounts abruptly to some waste and rugged ground, 
 with the Meuse down upon the right and the battlefield of Floeing 
 across the river. This must have been a fine point from which to 
 see the terrible conflict, for the field of Floeing, away to the hotly- 
 contested Calvaire at Illy, lies spread at one's very feet. 
 
 We returned to Sedan by Torcy, another point of hard fighting on 
 the ever-memorable i September. On the way we fell in with an 
 old fellow with two dogs, who told us that he was a soldier. I asked 
 him if he was here in 1870. "No," he replied, "I was shut up 
 with Bazaine at Metz, so I couldn't be here, for," he added, quite 
 unnecessarily, " no one could get out there, you know." 
 
 From Sedan I went to Paris, where I was again the guest of my 
 ever kind and hospitable friends the Monsons, at the Embassy. 
 The Emperor of Austria had sent Sir Edmund a fine oil painting of 
 himself in remembrance of his services as Ambassador at Vienna. 
 It is by the celebrated artist Horowitcz, nearly full length, and an 
 excellent likeness. At a large dinner-party at the Embassy I met 
 the Hon. Mr. Herbert, who had just been appointed to Washington,
 
 362 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 and was so soon to be cut off from what promised to be a brilliant 
 diplomatic career. 
 
 Having done my usual work at both the Paris churches, I went to 
 Lausanne, travelling the last part of the way with Count and Countess 
 Nordenskjold, of Stockholm, brother of Baron Nordenskjold of the 
 Swedish Arctic Expedition. They were interested to find that I knew 
 their country. 
 
 At Lausanne I confirmed and spoke at a North and Central Europe 
 Bishopric meeting. At Territet I found the Empress of Austria's 
 statue being unveiled by the Austrian Minister for Berne. She is 
 represented sitting upon a rock, clad, not in a walking dress, but one 
 highly laced and superbly elegant, quite out of place in the open air. 
 It would have done well in a building, or at least under a canopy. 
 At Territet and also at Vevey I did my usual ecclesiastical work, and 
 then drove to Chateau d'Oex, where I consecrated the new English 
 church, returning to Territet, and then on to Geneva ; from thence 
 travelling direct to Rouen for a confirmation. At Rouen a wire 
 ferry-bridge had lately been erected over the Seine. It consists of 
 a car hung upon wires and run along upon an iron girder bridge, 
 supported by two immense iron columns. It takes over passengers, 
 carts, and carriages. I was told that one other such exists, and that, 
 I think, is in America. 
 
 From Rouen I crossed to Newhaven via Dieppe.
 
 CHAPTER XXXI 
 
 Scandinavia — The Sand route from Stavanger toOdde— Confirmation in the much- 
 improved church at Christiania — A joint of bear for dinner — The first landing of 
 Queen Alexandra in Denmark after her coronation — Queen Alexandra greets 
 her English subjects — The Danish Kiel compared with the German Kiel of 
 1902 — The Schleswig "Broads" — Grand Duke of Oldenburg's Schluss at 
 Eutin — Lubeck and its glorious antiquities — Hans Memling's gems — Sunday 
 service for the English at Schwerin — Frederichsruhe and Prince Bismarck — 
 Boer generals at Utrecht — Kriiger's house at Hilversum. 
 
 ON 27 August I went up into Scandinavia with my son, crossing 
 from Hull to Stavanger in company with several sportsmen 
 going out to shoot elk. The view from the reservoir at Stavanger " is 
 such as one would find nowhere but in the moon, or in Norway." The 
 little ochre-stained wooden houses — yellow, brown, and red to a 
 brilliant crimson — dotted about everywhere wherever a few feet of 
 pasture, amongst the endless granite, exists. Immediately below lies 
 sleepy old Stavanger, fishy in its fish smells, and all around tapes and 
 threads of watery inlets, to the far-away sea. To the north and west lie 
 ever-increasing piles of granite — like mountains of the moon — bare, 
 bleak, grey, hard, depressing. A wonderful sunset worth looking at. 
 This clear-cutting northern atmosphere makes everything far away 
 start forward, and stand out with wonderful brilliancy, lighting up the 
 coloured wooden houses on islands of emerald green, and bathmg 
 the mountains of the moon with rosy fire ; sunsets seen nowhere but 
 in the far north. 
 
 From Stavanger we went by the Sand route to Odde. It is rather 
 a pretty passage to Sand amongst inlets, stopping at all sorts of 
 queer little places, and leaving all sorts of queer odds and ends of 
 little or no value ; a dry fish at one place, half a dozen of dried 
 sprats at another, a loaf of bread, a bag of flour, half-rotten empty 
 crates, a struggling goat, a bleating sheep, a shrieking pig ; at one 
 place a box of matches. At Sand we drove by carriole to Osen, 
 
 363
 
 364 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 and thence by steamer along the Suldal Lake to Naes. The Suldal 
 gate is soon reached after leaving Osen, enormous twin masses of 
 rock falling some 2000 feet sheer into the deep, dark waters of the 
 Vand. This is fine, as indeed is all the Suldal Lake, but intensely 
 lonely ; small and very poor hovels at intervals, with meagre patches 
 of grass and oats, which the poor folk are endeavouring to cut and 
 harvest. At each group of hovels we stopped and threw ashore 
 some miserable item. In one lonely cove we left a black sheep. A 
 boy received it from the steamer into a queer old boat, probably the 
 very next thing for floating purposes built after the ark ; and to see 
 that boy's face radiant with excited joy and gladness as he huddled 
 the scrambling sheep over the steamer-side into his ark was worth 
 the journey from England. No doubt the arrival of this sheep had 
 been his day and night's dream for weeks, an event in his small 
 fiord life to compare with which our coronation of the previous 
 month was as nothing. Further on we landed two girls at the foot 
 of a mountain, a lonely hovel perched upon it. They were dressed 
 in rainbow attire, as if for a series of garden parties, though carrying 
 all upon their backs, their luggage consisting only of a dilapidated, 
 empty crate. However, they seemed happy and joyous, skipping up 
 the mountain-side to the dreary saeter^ which in a few weeks would 
 be buried in snow. And what must these little farms be then ! 
 Utterly isolated, cut off entirely from the outer world, no road or 
 trackway above, the frozen, snow-covered lake below. I was told 
 that many of the inhabitants of these lonesome dwellings lose their 
 minds, and that most cases of insanity come from such places. No 
 wonder ! 
 
 From Naes we drove sixty kilometres to Odde. The road up the 
 Bratland is a fine piece of engineering, blasted out of the hard, 
 granite rock, the foaming river, the Bratland foss, dashing through 
 the gorge far below. At Breifond Hotel we stopped for coffee. 
 Here a road leads away eastward to Roledal, Dalen, and Kirkebo, 
 our old quarters some years ago. A good deal of snow lies here 
 through the summer, and reindeer are herded in the Haukelid Pass. 
 A climb of eight miles of zigzag from Breifond brings the traveller 
 to the top of the pass, from which a really fine view is obtained down 
 the deep, rocky valley towards Odde, and away to the Folgefonder 
 glacier. All around is desolation and ruin of mountains, the 
 descending zigzags making their way through a wilderness of fallen 
 rock, hundreds, thousands of them as big as churches, some as big as
 
 1902] NORWEGIAN CARRIOLE TRAVEL 365 
 
 York Minster. Down these giddy precipices our driver— a mere lad 
 — seemed to take delight in taking his pony at full tilt, the pace 
 being that of putting a horse at a fence in a hot run ; a rush, and 
 then a swirl round the interminable angles of the zigzags with the 
 pony's nose and shaft-ends projecting not very comfortably over 
 some thousands of feet of sheer air. Had we gone over nothing 
 would have been left of us and the pony but mincemeat, and match- 
 wood of the carriole. However we got down from the cold, snowy, 
 wind-swept pass to Seljestadt, where we ate reindeer and fish, and 
 were not a little comforted. 
 
 At Udsigten Hotel further down a record remains of Mr. Glad- 
 stone's visit. He did not make a speech, because there was no one 
 to make it to, but he wrote much about Gamle Norge, and the 
 Norse blood in our veins left in England by invading Northmen, 
 making us the fine people that we are. Our driver, only twenty- 
 three years of age, was a nice intelligent fellow, speaking English 
 picked up from tourists. When I catechized him as to his attainments 
 I found that he had read Ibsen and Bjornsen, knew Frithofs Saga, 
 the Heim-Kringler, and a good deal more, indeed, of Scandinavian 
 literature than I had ever read or even heard of. We passed Espe- 
 landsfos on our left, and the very striking Laatefos soon after on our 
 right. Just beyond is a tablet let into the rock, erected by the 
 German Emperor to the memory of a young German officer of his 
 escort who perished here four years ago. He was riding a cycle, 
 and either fell or threw himself into the raging waters, broken here 
 into a wild whirl of foam by the rocky gorge through which it flows. 
 
 The Breuer glacier soon after came into sight, streaming down 
 from the great Folgefonder glacier into a pretty little valley upon 
 the other side of the Sandevand Lake. Two farms lie in the 
 valley, to which and to the glacier a small steamer plies. Odde, 
 deserted by its tourists, was slumbering, and would soon be fast 
 asleep till June, 1903, when it would once more wake to its three 
 months of life and harvest. 
 
 Touching at Lofthus and at Vik we reached Ulvik, of course in the 
 pouring rain, without which, or snow, I have never traversed the 
 Norwegian fiords. Thence to Bergen, which was, as usual, under a 
 waterspout ; the town in which horses are said to shy at you if your 
 umbrella is not up. 
 
 Rounding the south of Norway, we made our way — still pouring 
 of course — to Christiania, where Nansen's brother had kindly put his
 
 366 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 pretty house upon the fiord at our service. Here we spent a few 
 quiet days amidst his brother's trophies from the Arctic regions, 
 photographs of dogs, sledges, etc., the Fram being a very con- 
 stant quantity amongst the pictures of his travels. The house 
 looks across to Oscars Halle, and has charming views down the 
 fiord. The Frarti returned to Stavanger after its four years' absence 
 with Sverdrup just two days after we left that place. We seem to 
 have always just missed these North Pole heroes. 
 
 A Norwegian admiral I met at Christiania told me that when up 
 in the White Sea lately he had found a Mr. Ffolkes, of Norfolk, and 
 a Mr. Hamilton fishing upon that dreary Siberian coast, and that 
 they had been there for months. How they existed he knew not. 
 " Who but Englishmen," he said, " would be found in such a region 
 for pleasure ? " Who indeed ! 
 
 We little know what ecclesiastical influence as a Church we 
 exercise upon the Continent, nor do we sufficiently consider how care- 
 ful we ought to be in consequence. On the Swedish coast opposite 
 to Denmark two parish churches have been built after the style of 
 Sir A. Blomfield's English church at Copenhagen, replacing un- 
 sightly meeting-house fabrics. The chaplain at Christiania told me 
 that as a consequence of the harvest festival held in our church the 
 previous year — the first ever held in Norway, and looked upon at 
 the time with suspicion by the Norwegians — the Norwegian clergy 
 advocated lately the holding of such a festival. It was also 
 announced with regard to the building of a new Norwegian church 
 in the capital that "the organ and choir would be placed in the 
 chancel, as in the English church." 
 
 Our visit to Christiania concluded with a few pleasant days spent 
 with our Consul-General and Mrs. Dundas (now Lord and Lady 
 Melville) at their pretty house " OrmkoUen," situated upon a pictur- 
 esque island about twenty minutes' passage down the fiord. The house 
 is one of the best-built houses, in entirely Norwegian style, in Norway. 
 The whole of these shores upon the fiord are dotted with vari- 
 coloured Norsk houses of all shapes and sizes, which make these 
 sombre forests, granite rocks, and dark waters look as bright and 
 cheerful as it is possible to make them. The view from the tower 
 of "Ormkollen," in which we breakfasted, is extensive, the hills away 
 into the interior of Norway a brilliant, sharp, steely blue; a northerly 
 breeze flecking the fiord with white horses. It was cold, too, and 
 Telemarken was already covered with snow. I confirmed and
 
 «902| QUEEN ALEXANDRA 367 
 
 preached in our pretty little church, built somewhat in Norwegian 
 style, which had been much improved since my last visit. 
 
 One day I went into town to see three bears, which had been killed 
 in the neighbourhood, two of which were brought to Jansen's great 
 game shop in Christiania. One, a large male, was shot near the Kons- 
 berg mines. The man who shot it was in some danger. He fired twice, 
 wounding the beast, which came for him. Something was amiss 
 with his gun, and he was unable to fire again. It came within 
 twelve feet, and was only prevented from attacking him by his dog. 
 The third shot finished the enraged beast. These dogs are trained to 
 bait bears, and in this case saved the man's life. The smaller, a 
 female, was shot by a lad in Nordland. We were promised a joint 
 from it for dinner next day. It sounded somewhat peculiar to hear 
 Mrs. Dundas giving her orders. " You will send the elk to-day, and 
 the capercailzie, and don't forget the bear for to-morrow." The shop 
 was full of elk, reindeer, and northern birds of many kinds- 
 
 On 17 September I left Christiania by rail for Copenhagen. 
 I had intended going by sea, but the equinox was on, and the 
 weather had turned too wintry and stormy. By this route down the 
 coast of the Cattegat one gets into Denmark by three miles of 
 ferry instead of three days of North Sea, which suits me much 
 better. At Copenhagen I was the guest of Herr von Krogh, one of 
 the King of Denmark's chamberlains, whose wife is English. The 
 Goschens were not at the Legation. He returned from Austria 
 later to be at Copenhagen during the Queen's visit. 
 
 On Friday, 19 September, I drove to the landing-place, where the 
 British Minister (Sir E. Goschen), the British naval attache, the 
 diplomatic corps, and our chaplain were assembled to receive Queen 
 Alexandra. At the end of the stairway leading up from the water a 
 small pavilion was erected for the reception of the royalties. A large 
 assembly of Danish officers in uniforms of all services, together with 
 city authorities in their bravest galore of velvet, gold brocade, and 
 cocked hats. A regiment of hussars in light-blue uniform, of which 
 King Edward is the Honorary Colonel, kept the enclosure. The 
 Russian Imperial yacht Pole Star lay off the landing-place, gaily 
 dressed in much bunting. The King of Denmark had gone out 
 earlier in the day in his yacht, the Dane/>ro'^, to meet the Vutorin 
 and Albert. This first home-coming of his daughter as crowned 
 Queen of England and Empress of India was made the occasion for 
 a function of considerable dignity.
 
 368 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 After long waiting the Victoria and Albert hove in sight, slipping 
 quickly in upon the west offing. Then a stir took place amongst 
 the brilliant assembly. Sir E. Goschen came to me, and said we 
 must go to the steps and stand on the south side of the ascent from 
 the water, the Danish officials ranging themselves on the north side. 
 At this point of the proceedings the Russian Pole Star broke out 
 into "God Save the King," and then opened her guns and thundered 
 out a royal salute, which was taken up by the war vessels — English, 
 Danish, Russian in the offing — making the old city tremble beneath 
 the cannonade. Amid these salutes the royal launch left the Victoria 
 and Albert, and steamed rapidly towards the quay where we were 
 standing. None who were present are likely to forget the pageant, 
 or the expression of joy and gladness upon the venerable old King 
 of Denmark's face as he sat between his daughters, the Queen of 
 England on his right, and the Dowager Empress of Russia on his 
 left. Amongst the royalties in the launch were our Princess Victoria, 
 the King of Greece, the Crown Prince and Princess of Denmark, 
 and several others. 
 
 One incident in the landing struck me as particularly noteworthy 
 and gracious. The Danish authorities stood on the right of the 
 stone stairway leading up from the water, the English on the left, 
 and it was a thoughtful and kindly acknowledgment of her subjects' 
 presence that our Queen passed up upon our side with her sister, 
 the Dowager Empress of Russia, in order to receive and return with 
 that kindly grace, which we all know so well, the loyal greetings of 
 her English subjects before she turned and joined her father, who 
 was in conversation with his own people. She came and shook 
 hands with us, as did also her sister, the Dowager Empress. I 
 never saw our Queen so radiant and happy, evidently gratified and 
 touched by the grandeur of the right royal welcome accorded her by 
 her beloved Danes. At this moment, as she stood with us, an 
 enormous black cloud that had been threatening for some time 
 burst with a force and suddenness such as only this stormy region 
 can produce. Down came a perfect tornado of rain and hail, 
 aggravated no doubt by the thunder of the saluting ships and 
 batteries. Scarcely had our Queen and the other royalties reached 
 the pavilion when it seemed as if the waters of the Sound were being 
 hurled upon us from the sky. What we should have done without 
 this shelter I do not know. We crowded into it, I fear, most un- 
 ceremoniously, stern necessity overriding both law and etiquette.
 
 '902] ROSENBERG CASTLE 369 
 
 For a quarter of an hour, whilst the elements howled and 
 thundered without, we stood crushed and jammed together in most 
 unroyal fiishion, an undignified group of dripping mortals. At last 
 the Danish royal carriages were got into order, and in the midst of 
 the storm, which was still raging in unabated fury, the royal party 
 drove away to Bernstorf. It was an historic landing, in which I 
 was glad to have taken part. 
 
 Hitherto the Danes had only seen the Osborne, and compared her 
 unfavourably with the huge Russian yachts Pole Star and Standari. 
 Upon this occasion, now that their Alexandra is our Queen, they 
 saw for the first time the Victoria and Albert, one hundred tons 
 larger than either, as the captain of the yacht informed me, with 
 evident pride and satisfaction. 
 
 On Sunday, 21 September, we assembled in the church porch, 
 Sir E. Goschen, the Diplomatic Corps, and myself to receive the 
 Queen. Upon alighting at the church door she and Princess 
 Victoria came up into the porch and greeted us as usual, the pro- 
 cession forming at once and moving into the church, singing the 
 harvest hymn, "Come ye thankful people." The church was filled 
 with English and Danes, officers and men from the royal yacht, etc. 
 I preached the sermon and confirmed in the afternoon. A Christiania 
 paper was sent after me to Copenhagen, containing the following : 
 " The English Bishop has been entertained at a great bear dinner, 
 bears having been killed in the neighbourhood. Bear's meat is a 
 new experience to the Bishop, for the saga of the bear in England is 
 now a saga that no longer exists." 
 
 I went to the picture gallery, which I had not seen before. Some 
 good pictures of the old Dutch school, and some modern pictures 
 of the Scandinavian school. Amongst the modern is one by Dahl, 
 "Christian II in Prison." It is a touching picture. The tottering 
 old man, who was I suppose a sinner if history tells truth, and 
 killed swarms of his nobles at Stockholm and elsewhere, is depicted 
 in a wretched, cramped cell. An attendant is drawing out an old 
 rickety chair for the miserable meal of bread and water, served 
 upon a small wooden table. 
 
 The Rosenberg Castle in its beautiful old (juiet gardens is the 
 gem of Copenhagen. It is a small building, like a miniature Hatfield, 
 and of that date, i.e. the time of Christian IV, to whom Denmark 
 owes all its most interesting and unique architecture, to my taste 
 amongst the most striking in Europe. The palaces and castles of 
 2 B
 
 370 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 the nobles scattered all over Denmark, which are very numerous, are 
 almost entirely of this date. 
 
 From Copenhagen I went to Kiel. Kiel has taken wonderful 
 strides under German rule. I remember it in 1859, a quiet Danish 
 haven. Now with its splendid Krupp shipbuilding yards, crowded 
 with enormous and magnificent erections of glass and iron, un- 
 equalled in the world, it is an arsenal such as neither England nor 
 the world can show. 
 
 I went to the castle to call on Princess Heinrich, who had asked 
 me to do so when next at Kiel, but found all closed, the Prince and 
 Princess being away. The park by the water is prettily laid out, 
 and the quaint old town is full of bright, good shops. Two days 
 after I had written this account of Kiel in my journal, I read in 
 The German Eitipire of To-day this account of it by "Veritas": 
 " The new Germanic yard at Kiel is being fitted with all the most 
 modern plant, machinery, and electric appliances. It will be un- 
 equalled in the world as regards its capabilities of building vessels 
 of every kind, splendid merchant ships, and also first-class men-of- 
 war." 
 
 From Kiel I went through the Schleswig-Holstein " Broads," a 
 district I had long wished to see. One soon enters a region very 
 like that of our Norfolk Broads, only more deeply wooded. At 
 Aschenburg is a fine broad with many islands. Here amongst a 
 throng of water-birds I saw the white-throated diver. Preetz has a 
 large broad. Upon each there seems to be a quaint old town, 
 which greatly adds to the picturesqueness of the scenery. Plon is 
 the most striking town of all, and has a broad full of islands ; 
 divers, grebes, and coots making the waters black. This country 
 seems thinly inhabited, picturesque farm-houses, of old red brick 
 and black woodwork, being scattered about here and there. 
 Grensmiihler has a deeply -wooded broad, with many good houses 
 and villas upon it. At Eutin I stayed. Here the Grand Duke of 
 Oldenburg has a fine old moated castle upon the broad, the 
 gardens and wooded grounds running down on many sides to the 
 water. The castle stands amidst avenues, broad shady walks, 
 shrubberies, flower-borders, endless seats, arbours, inlets of water, 
 dispersed and di.spensed everywhere with great taste. A temple at 
 the very edge of the broad giving views of varied kinds is a dream 
 of sweet, calm loveliness. The stillness of the grave and the 'quiet 
 beauty of Paradise combined.
 
 I902] EUTIN AND LUBECK 
 
 37 « 
 
 In the Platz, before entering the castle grounds, stands one of 
 the fine old red-brick. Schlcswig churches, the ecclesiastical feature 
 of all this North dcrman region up to Stettin, Dantzig, and Koenigs- 
 berg. A broad broach spire with perfection of brickwork in the 
 tower. Round about the church are canonical-looking houses. 
 There are no grounds like those of the old castles of Germany. 
 These German grand dukes have fine old palaces and castles 
 surrounded by grounds, perfect of their order, and to be found 
 only in Germany. This lovely old place has the solitude and 
 silence of enchanted ground — a piece out of the Arabian Nii^hfs. 
 No one about, and yet all in perfect order ; an enchanted ground as 
 yet undiscovered and untrodden by foot of English or American 
 tourist. Long may it remain so ! The air came straight from the 
 Baltic, which is not very far away, and was sweetly delicious. 
 
 Near the station at Eutin is a glorious old double-roofed, reeded 
 windmill ; a wooden gallery runs round its lower roof, in which are 
 three tiers of windows. 
 
 From Eutin I went on to Liibeck, where Mr. Chaplin and the 
 Church Committee of Hamburg had most kindly made all arrange- 
 ments for my seeing that most interesting old city. They had 
 requested the British Consul, Herr Belinke, and Professor Reusch, 
 of Liibeck, to show me all the sights of the place. So on Friday, 
 26 September, I sallied forth with these two excellent and courteous 
 guides, first to the cathedral, one of the grandest old twelfth-century 
 red-brick churches of North Germany. It was a Roman basilica 
 from the transepts to the west end. At the west rise two grand 
 spires from superb towers, built of what is but little inferior to 
 Roman brick. The building is reached through a restored and too 
 highly ornate porch. The choir is Romanische. The interior is 
 whitewashed, and I would not wish it otherwise, as it forms a 
 background for the sumptuous colouring and gilding of the most 
 gorgeous rood-screen I ever saw. Its figures, with enormous central 
 crucifix, stretch across the transept arch. Endless fine monuments 
 of all styles, gorgeously gilded and painted, cover the walls. The 
 rood-loft is an exquisite piece of painted, carved panel-work. In 
 one of the side chapels is a panelled, painted altar-piece by Hans 
 Memling, consisting of St. John the Baptist, St. Jerome, St. Blazius, 
 and St. Gilles ; the inner panels — poor in comparison — by Delberg. 
 The organ, specially played for us by arrangement, is very fine. At 
 twelve o'clock the twelve apostles come out from behind the old
 
 372 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 clock, make their bow to the seated figure of the Saviour, and 
 retire. The charming position of the cathedral upon a piece of 
 water is quite spoilt by a modern museum built upon the founda- 
 tions of the cloisters ; it entirely eclipses the south side of the 
 building, and ruins its appearance. Three grand brasses — ** graben 
 platten" — of bishops of Liibeck survive in the floors of the 
 cathedral chapels. I know of none so fine. The Marien Kirche 
 is about one hundred years later than the cathedral. It is of red 
 brick also, and surmounted by two lofty spires upon exquisite old 
 red-brick towers. It was built by the burghers of Liibeck to eclipse 
 — if possible — the Dom, which it certainly does not. The interior 
 is also whitewashed, and the walls covered with colouring and 
 carving, which shows well against it. The organ was played here 
 again by arrangement, and is as fine as that in the cathedral. In a 
 side chapel is a " Dance of Death " after Holbein. A " Sacraments 
 Haus " and aumbry of bronze, fifty feet high and spire-like, is the 
 gem of the church. There are other churches — the Petrus Kirche, 
 St. Gilles, and the Jacobs Kirche, all spired, and completing the 
 seven lofty spires which are such a feature in the distant views of 
 Liibeck. The old gateways are unique. That near the station, 
 with its stumpy, capped turrets, has been over-much restored with 
 enamelled bricks, and needs a few centuries to tone it. The Berg 
 Thor is much more as it was originally ; it is a fine old five-storied 
 tower, with venerable buildings clustering round and upon it. 
 
 The Hospital of the Holy Ghost is close to the Marien Kirche, 
 Here one hundred and forty old men and women live in one hundred 
 and forty little wooden cabins ranged along a large wall. These 
 cabins, like little bathing machines, are nearly dark, and suggest 
 lying in bed night and day. 
 
 The Rathhaus is a fine building containing the Senators' Chamber 
 and local Parliament House, for Liibeck was a Hanse town, and has 
 its privileges in consequence. On the wall of a committee-room is 
 a pencil note from the Emperor Frederick, written during the five 
 months of his reign. The writing is identical with the signature of 
 the portrait of himself which he gave me, and signed about the 
 same time. 
 
 I left Liibeck after a delightful visit for Schwerin, in order to give 
 the English of the town and neighbourhood Sunday services. The 
 Grand Duke's new castle is built upon an island in the broad, and is 
 very luxurious, but too new to be interesting. The state-rooms are
 
 1902] BOER GENERALS AT UTRECHT 373 
 
 endless and very fine, the ballroom being one of the finest in 
 Europe, and a larger one still is being built. The old Schlcjss, like 
 that at Eutin, must have been a grand building. The public 
 gardens adjoining the Schloss are beautifully wooded, and profusely 
 watered by artificial lakelettcs and streams, inlets from the broad. 
 Several small trim steamers ply uj)on this broad, which is the 
 largest in the district. 
 
 On the Sunday we had a congregation of forty in the room of a 
 private house, thirty-six out of the forty communicating. Two were 
 young Englishmen, one going to India, the other lately from Eton. 
 The four absentees were German Lutherans. 
 
 At Schwerin is another of the fine old red-brick churches of this 
 region, the lofty windows — some sixty feet in height — being the chief 
 feature of the building. The picture gallery, though small, contains 
 a very choice collection, mostly of the old Dutch school ; Oudry, 
 Kalf, Von Oelst — artists new to me — have exquisite pictures of 
 animals, birds, and still life. Schrick has pictures of flowers and shrubs 
 dotted with butterflies and insects and other small creatures, lizards, 
 toads, snakes, and mice, that riveted me by their superb finish. 
 Vlieger has sea-pieces, Honderkoeter birds, Van Bergen cattle, Jan 
 van der Heer a moonlit river, and a Van Goyen amongst the best I 
 know. The modern side has good pictures by Kritzchmer, Ecken- 
 bracher, etc. Well worth careful notice. 
 
 On my way from Schwerin to Hamburg I passed Fredericksruhe. 
 Bismarck's house is in the wood close to the station ; and on the 
 other side, and also close to the line, stands his mausoleum. At 
 Hamburg I was the guest of my ever hospitable and kind friends 
 Mr. and Mrs. Chaplin. Here I confirmed and preached and enjoyed 
 much kindly hospitality, leaving on 6 October for Amsterdam, where 
 I stayed out at Hilversum with other hospitable friends of long 
 standing, the Boissevains. At Amsterdam I confirmed in both 
 churches. 
 
 The Boer generals were thundering forth their grievances against 
 the British Government at Utrecht, and the subject of the Boer 
 War was still too painful a topic to touch upon in Holland. 
 Kriiger's house was three minutes' walk from the Boissevains, very 
 plain and small, with a small garden. In the room to the left 
 of the door he used to sit in the morning, and in that over it in the 
 afternoon. The Boissevains, whose house was in the same garden, 
 used to hear him, when the windows were open in summer.
 
 374 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 describing, with extended map, to his many visitors the position 
 of things in the Transvaal, assuring them with much scriptural 
 quotation that he would come to his own again. 
 
 I remember most of the Boissevain family from very small 
 children. I have confirmed them, and seen some of them pass out 
 into the world. A dehghtful family, mostly boys, who talk delightful 
 Anglo-Dutch. I ask a boy who had a headache yesterday how he is. 
 " Quite good now, thank you." " And your brother ? " " He is 
 bester, but not whole good." Dutch children are, as a rule, ex- 
 ceedingly well-behaved : they are obliging, attentive, and courteous 
 to their parents and elders — a great rebuke and contrast to many 
 English children of this twentieth century. However often during 
 the day they may go out, upon their return they kiss their parents 
 and shake hands with all and several of those persons who may 
 happen to be present. If I send one of the boys to the post-office 
 for stamps, the whole six, desirous of taking part in the expedition, 
 rush wildly off — that is to say, as wildly as can be expected of Dutch 
 boys — and upon their return shake all six hands with me, and hope 
 I have been well ("good," as rendered in Anglo-Dutch) during their 
 absence. One of these, a boy of thirteen, is going to be a soldier, 
 and is the happy possessor of a small rifle. I have quite won his 
 juvenile heart by practising with him at bottles set like soldiers in 
 a row. Friends as we are, personally and as private individuals, he 
 is, I feel sure, a sturdy pro-Boer ; and if ever Boers or Dutch invade 
 our island, that boy will, of a surety, be found jumping ashore first 
 amongst our enemies. In the deep of his wicked little heart he 
 knows that he is playing Boer and Briton with me ; for when he 
 singles out a bottle from the doomed row and smashes it he looks 
 out of the corner of his eye at me, as much as to say, " That's what 
 my people did at Colenso and Spion Kop ; and that is what I shall 
 be doing some day, but not with bottles." He is a far better marks- 
 man than I am, though I did kill my first bottle at the first shot, 
 and rose above Majuba in his estimation. But he would be a very 
 dangerous young Boer to tackle on the veldt, even at thirteen. 
 True chip of the old Dutch stock ! Since those days we have shot 
 many rabbits together with bigger rifles in England, and have not 
 often wasted a bullet. 
 
 I was taken one day during that pleasant visit to Hilversum to 
 see the six-months-old baby of a married daughter of the house, 
 whom I had confirmed some years ago. Dutch children are among
 
 I902J A DUTCH FARM 
 
 375 
 
 the dearest and best in all the world, and this particular baby the 
 best in Holland, which is saying much indeed for its excellence. It 
 was brought in, more Batnviarum^ upon a board, much as a sports- 
 man would exhibit a fish of the capture of which he was especially 
 proud. The fish-board of this particular little fish, however, was 
 decked with frilled muslins, pink and white ; and had it jumped or 
 wriggled, as the manner of ordinary six-months-old babies is, must 
 inevitably have fallen over and come to the ground. But Dutch babies 
 do not jump or wriggle, and this one, the proud mother told me, never 
 even cried. A mood for all babies in North and Central Europe ! 
 
 I went several pleasant excursions around Hilversum with my 
 kind friends, passing many charming old bits of typical Dutch 
 scenery. Amongst others, a quaint house built by the great admiral. 
 Van Tromp. It is shaped like a ship, and stands in the water. 
 
 We drove about the pretty well-kept woods, of which the ordinary 
 hurrying, through -passing, uninterested, and uninteresting tourist 
 knows nothing ; alongside straight canals, and over picturesque 
 wooden drawbridges ; through quaint villages, full of quaintly clad 
 people. It was like driving through miles of Dutch picture galleries, 
 stopping at some living picture now and again to take a kodak shot 
 at some bizarre bit or corner of this amphibious country of reed, 
 dyke, and meadow. We crossed stretch upon stretch of heathery 
 flats, as painted by Mieris, to plunge again into a watery village 
 redolent with burning peat, and pulling up at one of the large 
 Dutch farms, a sight not to be missed in this dairy-land. Quite 
 unlike the dirty, untidy, smelly Boer farms of the Transvaal veldt 
 are these farms of the old country, save only the ampleness of 
 the " frau," who comes with arms akimbo to greet the stranger with 
 the same phlegmatic nod. Here in these farms are sights which 
 only Holland can show — buildings thatched to perfection, not a 
 reed out of place ; the dwelling-house faultlessly clean ; the living- 
 room, with its bright, polished armoires, its racks and shelves filled 
 with china, ancient and modern, pots, pans, brazen vessels, etc.; the 
 big family Bible, all clasped and knobbed ; a few pictures, that 
 would be sacred were they not almost profane by reason of their 
 grotesqueness ; the steps up into the sleeping-room ("bet stoep," I 
 think they are called), which is always so raised above the floor ' > 
 clear the damp, Dutch farmhouses having no second story ; the 
 deep, wooden, recessed cupboards, fitted in some cases with doors, 
 the sleeping-places of the family. Then there arc the cow-houses.
 
 376 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1902 
 
 large, long, barn-like sheds, with latrines running down the sides, in 
 part of which the cows stand, tied in rows facing inwards, their 
 tails fastened to a beam above to keep them clean. Beyond each 
 line of latrine runs a paved way, along which the milkers pass to 
 their work ; while above the cows are the cupboards in which the 
 cowboys sleep— sons of the family generally. Cold indeed in a 
 Dutch winter must these wide, windy, barn-like buildings be, though 
 the cows below act as hypocausts to some extent. " It is healthy 
 to sleep with the cows," the old lady tells us, "and good for the 
 lungs. Consumptive patients come to lodge with us for the purpose." 
 In the midst of the great passage-way between the cows' heads 
 stands the big churn, worked by horse-power, capable of making 
 any quantity of butter. And where in all the world will be found 
 such an indication of abundance of milk? No agricultural de- 
 pression here, with the finest and most unfailing summer pastures in 
 Europe ! Pastures in Holland are never burnt by drought for the 
 same reason that you cannot set the Thames on fire. One last look 
 before we leave at those wonderful thatches which cover all so 
 securely, protecting alike from summer heat and rain and from 
 winter snow and cold — all beautifully level reeds from the endless 
 waterways which lie everywhere around. 
 
 That a Dutch garden is neat goes without the saying ; prim also, 
 like one of those little gardens to be seen arranged on trays at an 
 English flower-show. There is generally an artificial hill in it, about 
 three feet high, as a set-off and protest against the otherwise level 
 character of the ground ; and there is frequently a fountain rising 
 from the indispensable lakelette or boundary dyke. The gardens 
 are very slightly protected from vagrant cattle ; so slightly that, if 
 situated in England, the proprietor would wake up every other 
 morning to find his garden a bare garden indeed. In Holland, 
 however, cows and pigs, like French boys, are not allowed to go 
 out for a walk alone. 
 
 Holland in the late autumn, when November is in sight, does 
 not present a very cheerful aspect. As all the world knows, it lies 
 mostly below the sea-level, and has a way of getting lost in fog, like 
 London; but it is not fog of the same order. London fog is 
 composed of smoke and smuts; a Dutch fog is made of the pure 
 moisture of its dykes, and is, like everything else in Holland, clean. 
 At such times one has to feel one's way from dyke to dyke, and the 
 landscape becomes somewhat involved.
 
 I902] LEAVE HOLLAND WITH REGRET 377 
 
 It was with much regret that I left all the joys, the kindliness, 
 and the genial hospitalities of this pleasant home at Hilversum; 
 but it had to be exchanged for the lonely corner of a railway 
 carriage that was to carry me away to other lands and other scenes, 
 taking away only the warm, kindly memories of those happy days 
 to keep me company ; and as the train sweeps me over those wastes 
 and waterways of friendly Holland, I envy the cottagers in their 
 snugly-lighted cabins, who are tucking themselves away comfortably 
 in their cupboard-beds, secure from the wind and rain that moans 
 and beats so dismally without.
 
 CHAPTER XXXII 
 
 Bay of Biscay chaplaincies — Nantes — Place Mareuil ami Bluebeard — The 
 Roman amphitheatre, the sights of Bordeaux — A run across the Bidassoa 
 to Font Arabia in Spain — Mealless. wayworn, and sore distressed — On the 
 track of the German army from Saarbriick to Metz — Seventeenth annual 
 Conference at Baden — Interview with the Grand Duke and Duchess — 
 Dedication of English church at Sierre — American gathering at Zurich on 
 Independence Day — Innsbruck, Maximilian's tomb — The Empress Josephine's 
 Hotel at Aix-la Chapelle — A typical German secondary school. 
 
 ON 29 January, 1903, I crossed to Calais and confirmed. I found 
 France much exercised over the suppression of its reHgious 
 schools in Brittany. It seems a very general impression that the 
 motive is to seize and appropriate the land and property of such 
 suppressed schools. 
 
 From Calais I went on to Lille and Croix for work, staying with 
 my old and kind friends the Faulkners, at the latter place. 
 
 From Croix I went direct to St. Nazaire via Paris, staying with Mr. 
 Irby, the chaplain, in his house looking out upon the Bay of Biscay. 
 The docks at the mouth of the Loire are large and increasing. 
 Here I confirmed, preached, and addressed the sailors at their 
 institute. At Basses Indre, on the Loire, is a Welsh colony of tin- 
 plate workers. At Nantes we have a small English colony, which I 
 visited, preaching on the Sunday. 
 
 A statue has been lately erected at Nantes to Colonel Villebois 
 Mareuil, whom we killed at Bishof, in South Africa. He was a 
 Nantois, and a very obscure one; but the French have the gift — 
 even to the art of cooking — of making much out of a little. Blue 
 Beard was a Nantois. Perhaps a companion statue will be erected 
 to him upon the " Place Blue Beard " in the act of attempting to kill 
 poor Fatima. The magnolias, and the finest camellias I ever saw 
 were coming into blossom in the public gardens, the latter, some 
 twelve feet high, beautifully grown and trimmed. The Beaux Arts 
 
 378
 
 1903] BORDEAUX 379 
 
 is worth a visit, if for no other purpose than to see Norberg's 
 large and remarkable pictures, "The Castaways" and " Les Iiiutiles." 
 The former represents the dying and the dead in a boat that is cast 
 away from a lost ship. The waves curl and roll around the doomed 
 boat, and two albatrosses on the wing glide above it. It is a 
 weird scene, and very terrible. The other represents the siege of 
 the Chateau Gaillard. The inutiks sent out of the castle are 
 scattered about upon the snow -covered ramparts by hundreds, 
 stripping dead bodies, and even devouring them. Two bulls fight- 
 ing, by Cambon, is fine. A man tied upon a wheel upon which a 
 snake has fastened, and Marat lying wounded in his bath, complete 
 the horribles of this collection, which would almost match those of 
 the Trytyakofi" Gallery at Moscow. The cathedral is grand. It 
 contains the body of Francis II, the last Duke of Brittany ; also a 
 fine modern tomb of Lamorricier, killed, I think, in Algiers. 
 St. Stephen's is a new but fine and interesting church. 
 
 From Nantes I went to Bordeaux, where Mr. and Mrs. Dobson 
 kindly received me again. In the Museum Gardens at Bordeaux is 
 the largest meteorite I ever saw. It fell at Carcassonne, and weighs 
 2 tons I cwt. ; its composition, bitumen, iron, calcaire, and nickel ; 
 the shape that of an inflated warming-pan. The Roman amphi- 
 theatre is the sight of Bordeaux. It is but a fragment of an enormous 
 structure. The quadruple arched gateway of small squared stones 
 and bands of thin brick is vaulted, and leads into a small garden. 
 A few steps take up on the right to a slight elevation upon which 
 stand modern houses, turning round upon which one sees the flanking 
 curtain walls of the amphitheatre. Not many arches are standing 
 on either side of the gateway. The steps referred to lead up upon 
 a fragment of the wall which separated the seats from the arena, and 
 curves away till lost in modern houses. The entire arena is occupied 
 by the rue de Colisse and rue Sassass, which cut one another at 
 right angles in the centre of the arena. In the rue Sassass there is 
 a portion of masonry, forming a partition wall. It is between a 
 blacksmith's forge and a modern dwelling-house. This is continued 
 across the rue Sassass till again lost in a modern house. 
 
 At the end of the rue Colissd, and en face, is a shop. Standing 
 with one's back to this shop, and facing the great gateway at the far 
 end of the rue Colisse, one sees to the right another fragment of 
 the curtain wall of the amphitheatre. Here at the head of the 
 ellipse no doubt a second great gateway stood, the foundations of
 
 38o CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1903 
 
 which are scattered above the surface of the ground, and in the 
 foundations of an old and poor lodging-house. 
 
 Mr. Burke, our chaplain, saw the bronze equestrian statue of 
 Napoleon III thrown down by the populace one Sunday morning in 
 1870, broken up with hammers and dragged to the Gironde, into 
 which it was thrown ! The picture galleries of Bordeaux are dis- 
 appointing. The cathedral is fourteenth century, but the squat- 
 groined roof deforms everything internally ; an architectural abortion. 
 Two spires rise from the end of the north transept; the towers on the 
 south transept are unfinished. The old Norman church of St. Sevrin 
 is very interesting. A glorious porch hiside and a Norman nave, 
 savage, dark, and heavy. St. Michael's Church is an interesting 
 fourteenth-century building, well fan-vaulted in nave and aisles as 
 are all these Bordeaux churches. The fagade of St. Croix is worth 
 a visit. Detached is a tower and spire, poor and of later date. The 
 old bell tower is extremely picturesque ; pointed and capped. 
 
 From Bordeaux I went to Arcachon where all was quiet as ever, 
 mellow and summerlike, the Basin sleeping in a misty atmosphere, 
 and the red-trousered fishermen with their birettes drawn over their 
 faces lying about like lizards in the soft sunshine. Then on to Pau 
 where I did the work which always awaits me in its three churches, 
 and in addition dedicated a very suitable Httle mortuary chapel 
 attached to St. Andrew's Church. 
 
 In reading, while at Pau, Marie Corelli's Decay of Home Life in Eng- 
 lafid, I was particularly struck with the terrible truth of women's influ- 
 ence in the world. "The influence of women bears perhaps more 
 strongly than any other power on the position and supremacy of a 
 country. Corrupt women make a corrupt state — while God-fearing 
 women make a noble, God-fearing people. It is not too much to 
 say that the prosperity or adversity of a nation rests in the hands of 
 its women. They are the mothers of the men — they make and mould 
 the characters of their sons. And the centre of this influence 
 should be, as nature intended it to be, the Home'' Would that these 
 words were engraved upon every woman's heart ! 
 
 At St. Jean de Luz, which I visited upon leaving Pau, I con- 
 firmed and preached, going one day into Spain to see Font Arabia. 
 It is but a short run by train to Hendaye, thence by boat across the 
 Bidassoa. The tide was very low, and we had much difficulty in 
 getting our boat through the tortuous passages amongst the sand- 
 banks. The little town stands upon a rocky eminence commanding
 
 1903] MEALLESS, WAYWORN, WEARY 381 
 
 the river's mouth, and is backed by the Spanish hills, which lie all 
 around. The entrance is through a ruinous gateway, and the street 
 beyond thoroughly Spanish, a perfect picture for artists ; but it must 
 be coloured, the balconies and house-fronts being brilliant and 
 excessively bizarre. The grand heavy-carved overhanging eaves 
 make the narrow streets almost to meet overhead. At the top of 
 the street stands an old church tower, a fitting termination, and quite 
 Spanish in architecture. Beyond the church is a square, on one 
 side of which is an old ruined castle, ivy clad. All speaks of the 
 days of old and the years that are passed ; Ciudad Fuente Arabia, 
 the city of the swift fountain, is dead and buried, and will never 
 more rise from the dead. The view from the decayed ramparts up 
 the river embracing Hendaye on the French right bank, and Irun 
 on the Spanish, or left bank, is good, backed up by La Rune and 
 the Trois Couronnes, the western end of the Pyrenees, which fall 
 down here and leave a passage from one country to the other. 
 
 From St. Jean de Luz, or rather from Font Arabia in Spain, 
 I travelled through to Somersetshire in a tornado of rain, hail, storm, 
 and tempest, which smashed the windows of our train, blew out our 
 lights, broke down our wretched French engine, and brought us into 
 Paris hours late. At Calais the Channel had been almost impassable 
 for the last few days. Upon arriving in London I found all trains 
 to the west had gone save the night mail, by which I arrived at 
 Bradford at 3 a.m. on 4 March, mealless since I left the Spanish 
 border, wayworn, weary, hungry, and sore distressed. 
 
 On 8 June of this year I crossed to Antwerp, en route for 
 Brussels, where I stayed with my constantly hospitable friends of 
 many years, Mr. and Mrs. Stephens, whence having done my con- 
 firmation work at Christ Church, and dedicated a reredos in the 
 Church of the Resurrection, I travelled to Baden for our annual 
 Conference via Metz, at which place I spent a very interesting day. 
 
 From the Parade Gardens above the Moselle a fine view is 
 obtained. In front rises Fort St, Quentin, now called Fort Prinz 
 Carl, dominating all others, on the slopes and flanks of which the 
 huge beleaguered French force — unable to stow itself into the 
 fortress — lay. At one's feet flows the Moselle, joined here by the 
 Seille. Away to the left lay the hills around (Iravelotte. I stood, 
 and looked, and looked, trying to realize those terrible August days 
 thirty-three years ago, when the despairing Bazaine and his mighty 
 host lay locked in by the German army, failing in every attempt to
 
 382 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1903 
 
 break through the iron girdle. There lay the Thionville Road 
 stretching away to the north, along which the last desperate, unavail- 
 ing efforts were made. Looking out upon this scene, as part and 
 parcel of the story, is an equestrian statue of the old Kaiser erected 
 by his " Dankbaren Volke." At the other end of the gardens is a 
 statue of Marshal Ney, a native of Metz. On the way from Metz 
 to Baden are passed many of the most famous battlefields of 1870, 
 upon which the distracted French tried to stay the onward march 
 of the ever-victorious Germans : Courcelles, Remilly, St. Avoid, on a 
 commanding height crowned by a war monument. Crosses and 
 burial grounds strew the way — a very Via Dolorosa. Then Forbach, 
 where one of the deadliest stands was made. At Forbach the 
 country becomes broken and pretty as the Hardt Hills, the northern 
 continuation of the Vosges, are entered and traversed, till the 
 (then) frontier at Saarbriick and St. Johan, on either side of the 
 Saar, is reached. Behind Saarbriick stands up the Spichenberg, 
 which the French occupied at the beginning of the war. It is a 
 strong position, from which, however, they were driven by the 
 Germans, who swarmed up it upon their hands and knees, biting 
 their swords between their teeth. 
 
 It is not easy to identify the Spichenburg amongst the congeries 
 of hills that lie about Saarbriick in that direction. It is not the 
 first height seen from the town, but lies on the other side of it. 
 There is a tower upon an isolated hill on that side, called the 
 Winterberg, which standing out as a bastion towards the plain 
 commands the battlefield. It was here at Saarbriick that the Prince 
 Imperial of France underwent his " baptism of fire " ; and here, 
 and here only, that his father commanded. It was only a slight 
 skirmish in which the French had the advantage, after that the war 
 was one continuous debacle. From this interesting region I went 
 on to Stuttgart, where I confirmed and did other work. 
 
 When dining at the American Consulate I heard the story of the 
 loss of the Sea/ord on her passage from Dieppe to Newhaven, the 
 Consul and his wife being passengers. The collision occurred when 
 half-way across. The Seaford had about three hundred passengers 
 on board. She withstood the shock only twenty minutes, and in 
 that time the whole of the passengers and crew scrambled from her 
 to the cargo steamer in collision, which came alongside for the 
 purpose. Being struck rather aft midships, she began to settle down 
 behind at once. The French, who were numerous, behaved
 
 1903] GRAND DUKE OF BADEN 383 
 
 scandalously, literally scrambling over the women and children to 
 get first to the cargo ship. The English, calm and unselfish, 
 behaved splendidly. Two ladies slipped between the two ships in 
 their endeavour to escape, one hanging in such a position that slie 
 was in imminent danger of being crushed to death. One of the 
 young ship's ofificers of the Seaford told her to let go and fall into 
 the water ; he then jumped overboard and saved her. The Seaford 
 sank very quietly down stern first. The cargo steamer was herself a 
 good deal damaged, and the captain doubted if he could reach the 
 coast in time to save her following the Seaford! She was five hours 
 making Newhaven, and the suspense and anxiety on board was 
 awful. The Consul's wife had a good deal of jewellery, which when 
 travelling she usually wore for safety. Upon this occasion it was in 
 her jewel-box. Everything she possessed was lost. When she saw 
 the Seaford go down she felt hurriedly for her jewels, thinking they 
 were upon her, and could hardly realize that all had gone to the 
 bottom. 
 
 From Stuttgart I went to Baden for our annual Conference ; all 
 was well arranged, and the Conference well attended. 
 
 The Grand Duke and Duchess of Baden wishing to see me, I 
 went to the castle one afternoon, and stayed with them for some 
 time. She looked older than when I had last seen hw ; he, the 
 perfect type of a German gentleman, bright and gracious. They 
 hoped I had been satisfied with the Conference arrangements, and 
 with Anglican matters in the Grand Duchy. We talked of their 
 daughter, the Crown Princess of Sweden, who was at Baden when 
 I was last at the castle ; and mueh also of our late Queen ; of 
 the Empress Frederick, and her memorial erected at Homburg, 
 which I had been asked to unveil. They showed me the private 
 chapel in the castle, and the new ecclesiastical furniture recently 
 added to it by their family in memory of their fifty years' reign in the 
 Grand Duchy. Before I left the castle the Grand Duke took me 
 out upon the stone terrace to a corner from which a fine view of 
 Baden below and the Black Forest hills around is obtained. He 
 told me it was the old Kaiser's favourite point when visiting his 
 daughter, the Grand Duchess. They were both most kind, and 
 expressed genuinely their pleasure at my having come to see them. 
 
 Then on to Freiburg, where I did my work and made the 
 acquaintance of Mr. and Mrs. Bosworth Smith. He having lived 
 twenty-seven years in Russia, and she being a Russian, we had
 
 384 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1903 
 
 much Russian talk. They pressed me much to visit Taganrog on 
 the Sea of Azof, where they have many friends, promising to join me 
 there and show me that district. Having done my work at 
 Freiburg I went on into Switzerland and did the work awaiting me 
 at Lausanne and Territet, going on up the Valais to Sierre, where I 
 dedicated a very beautiful little chapel in the hotel grounds. Every- 
 thing — marble, oak-work, stained glass by Clayton & Bell — good. 
 
 Here the heat was terrific, between 90° and 100°. To prevent 
 returning through scorching mid-Switzerland to Ziirich, whither I 
 was bound, I went by way of the Furka Pass, with which I was glad 
 to renew my acquaintance. Sleeping at the Rhone Glacier, I drove 
 on next day to Goschenen, through much snow, for the pass had 
 only been open a fortnight. I had crossed the Furka when twenty 
 years of age, again when I was fifty, and now at sixty-five it seemed 
 grander and more wonderful than ever. The view from the Furka 
 Hotel of the Finster Aarhorn — whence alone it can be seen from 
 a distance to perfection — and away beyond to the Breithorn and 
 Matterhorn is worth the climb. 
 
 At beautiful Brunnen I stayed the afternoon, and then on to 
 Zurich. I found Ziirich mourning the result of a terrible mountain 
 catastrophe, Professor Groebel and two boys of the Cantonal 
 School having been killed by an avalanche at Piora, above Airolo. 
 Six other wounded boys lay at Zurich, and Professor Vedoz with a 
 broken leg. 
 
 July 4 being American Independence Day, we dined, a party of 
 fifty English and Americans, at the Baur au Lac. I had to propose 
 the health of the American President, speaking of the excellent 
 feeling existing between the two countries, and adding that if we 
 would only hold to that friendliness we could dictate to the world. 
 This was very well received, Americans coming up from the other 
 end of the table to thank me. The gardens were brilliantly illumin- 
 ated, and the band played EngUsh and American music throughout 
 the evening. 
 
 From Zurich I went to Innsbruck to settle a Church difficulty in 
 that place. I had never looked thoroughly through the Hofkirche 
 till this visit. It is full of interest, Maximilian's tomb being the 
 chief. It is colossal, empanelled with scenes from his life, of 
 white marble. He kneels on the top in bronze between two brazen 
 angels. The surrounding figures consist of the contemporaneous 
 kings and queens of Europe. King Arthur represents the contem-
 
 1903] THE EMPRESS JOSEPHINE'S HOTEL 3H5 
 
 porary English sovereign. Henry VH was king, but his son Arthur 
 was chosen. It is well that a mythic English king was chosen to do 
 this homage, or our insular pride would rebel. 
 
 A statue of Hofer stands at the entrance, and opposite a Denk- 
 mal of those who fell with him fighting for Tyrolese freedom. 
 
 From Innsbruck I went to Munich. The galleries at Munich 
 are much inferior to those at Amsterdam and Dresden. They 
 always strike me as having been filled with a view to quantity rather 
 than quality, and are overloaded with poor representatives of the 
 Italian school. The Murillo and Vandyck rooms are good, but 
 there is a plague of fleshy Rubens pictures of the worst type. On 
 my way to England from Munich I stayed at Spa, whence, having 
 done my work, I returned to England via Antwerp. 
 
 In August I went into Germany, Belgium, and North France as 
 far as Dunkirk. Crossing to Antwerp, en route for Aix-la-Chapelle, 
 I was detained at Brussels, and spent the time in a visit to the fine 
 new Museum of Natural History. Here the gigantic iguanodon 
 has been housed with three others of equal size, making the finest 
 group of these wondrous monsters from the coal measures of 
 Charleroi in the world. I have fully described these great beasts 
 upon the occasion of a former visit. Two fine specimens of beaked 
 whales are in the same hall. They are of enormous size, represent- 
 ing the transition from the fish to the bird. I also found time to 
 run through the Wiertz Gallery just opposite. Truly a demented 
 man was Wiertz; a sort of artistic Dante. His gallery a chamber 
 of horrors. 
 
 At Aix-la-Chapelle I preached a harvest festival sermon in the 
 bright, well-decorated little church. Between the services I rested 
 at the historic Hotel Krone. Here for four years, from 1811-15, 
 lived Josephine after her divorce, and hither came the European 
 robber now and again to see her. I had what are called the 
 Napoleon rooms. They are upon the first floor in the old part of 
 the house, and are unaltered since that date. Two long narrow 
 rooms, the sitting-room only 24 ft. by 15 ft. Two deep windows 
 with seats and old sashes, a marble mantelpiece of that date, at 
 wnich poor cast-off Josephine no doul)t warmed her cold feet and 
 chilled heart on many a dark winter's day. The ceiling is very 
 plain, crossed by a heavy beam. The bedroom, 24 ft. by 7 ft., leads 
 immediately out of the parlour. It is a gloomy, narrow chamber, 
 lighted by only one window. Both rooms look down upon a garden, 
 2 c
 
 386 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1903 
 
 now full of fruit and other trees, a few sickly flowers, and sicklier 
 grass. Here, it is said, walked the Corsican bandit when planning 
 the Moscow campaign. From 1800-3 Alexander I of Russia 
 occupied this hotel off and on when taking the baths. I wondered 
 if Napoleon's nephew, when passing through Aix-la-Chapelle in 1870 
 on his way from Sedan to Wilhelmshohe, thought how history was 
 repeating itself; how his uncle came and went hither when tottering 
 to his fall ; how here, in four rooms of a provincial hotel, lived the 
 cast-off wife of his uncle — for in the next town of Verviers, just over 
 the frontier, lay, half a century later, the captive nephew at the 
 obscure Hotel de la Gare on the third night after the overthrow of 
 his empire, 4 September, 1870. 
 
 The cathedral I had not seen for some years. It is always in- 
 teresting. The circular part was built by Charlemagne about a.d. 804, 
 centuries before any Norman church was built in England. The 
 marble pillars of the triforium, brought from Italy, taken away by 
 Napoleon, and restored after Waterloo, have been repolished and the 
 dome filled with mosaics. Otherwise all is as built a thousand years 
 ago. Here in the circular triforium stands the marble chair in 
 which Charlemagne was buried, crowned and sitting upright. Two 
 centuries after his burial the Emperor Otto HI, a.d. iooo, wishing 
 to see his body, exhumed and reburied it. Frederick Barbarossa 
 opened it again a.d. 1165, and buried the body in a sarcophagus 
 without the chair. The chair, or throne, is raised on stone steps, 
 and is constructed of simple slabs of white marble, strapped together 
 with copper plates. In 1906 the tomb was opened again. 
 
 There are no less than one hundred and thirty bath establishments 
 at Aix-la-Chapelle. The water rises from a great depth, some 
 4000 feet it is said. The heat is generated in the volcanic Eifel, 
 from which it flows, upon the northern edge of which Aachen 
 stands. It is 170° at the springs, which are sulphurous, and good 
 for gout, rheumatism, skin diseases, etc. At Barsheid, a suburb of 
 Aachen, the springs burst up in the streets at boiling heat, in which 
 eggs can be cooked. 
 
 From Aachen I visited the Cologne chaplaincy, and then went to 
 Diisseldorf, where I confirmed and preached in the most appalling 
 heat I ever experienced in Europe. 
 
 From Diisseldorf I visited the Bonn chaplaincy. At Godesberg, 
 where I stayed, is a typical German secondary school admirably 
 ordered and managed, at which are several English boys. It contains
 
 1903] A TYPICAL GERMAN SCHOOL 387 
 
 nearly four hundred students, and is the result of one man's twelve 
 years' work. The building is fine — hall, class-rooms, chemical and 
 physical Irtijoratories, museum of natural history, geology, etc., with a 
 large staff of masters. The boys are well looked after, morally and 
 spiritually, and it might well serve, in all respects, as a model for 
 English secondary schools. Upon the walls of the Lehrer Zimmer 
 are Riickert's words : — 
 
 Ein Lehrer soil zii viel am jedem Tage beten : 
 
 " Herr ! lehren mich Dein Amt am kinde recht %'ertreten." 
 
 A very sad accident befell one of the Enghsh boys at this school 
 shortly after I visited it. Two brothers were with their mother upon 
 the Rhine bank. The younger ran upon one of the stone groins 
 stretching out into the river. It was in the dusk of evening ; the 
 groin was slippery with ice ; and the poor little fellow lost his foot- 
 ing, and was never seen again. 
 
 An English lady, who has two boys at this school, told me that 
 when they first arrived they astonished but won the admiration of 
 the German boys in their dormitory by kneeling down and saying 
 their prayers. The German boys, to their credit, did not laugh at 
 or hinder them. Lutherans do not kneel to pray. It seemed to 
 me that these English boys showed no little moral courage by not 
 being ashamed to be seen upon their knees in prayer amongst 
 foreign boys in a strange land. 
 
 From Godesberg I visited the Bruges and Dunkirk chaplaincies, 
 whence, having done my work, I travelled back through Belgium to 
 Rotterdam, where I was the guest of Mrs. Laming on the Westerkade. 
 Here I confirmed and spent a few days, returning to England by the 
 Hook of Holland.
 
 - CHAPTER XXXIII 
 
 Sir Henry and Lady Howard's reception at the Hague to meet Prince Henry of 
 the Netherlands— Berlin— Conversations with Sir Frank Lascelles— A visit to 
 the British Legation at Dresden— Last visit to the Monsons at the Paris 
 Embassy— Seventeen years of hospitality and kindness— Eighteenth annual 
 Conference at Zurich— Visit to Sir Constantine Phipps at the British Legation 
 at Brussels— Dedication of windows in the English church at Homburg. 
 
 THE year 1904 began by a long visitation through the 
 Holland, North and Mid-German, and North France chap- 
 laincies. A hurricane had been blowing, with torrential rain, for 
 thirty hours, the country flooded in all directions, and the Thames, 
 as a river, blotted out. I travelled to Harwich, and crossed to the 
 Hook of Holland en route for the Hague, where I was the guest of 
 an old diplomatic friend, Mr. Leveson-Gower. The sun having 
 ceased to shine in England for a considerable period, it was 
 pleasant to find it again in Holland. Mr. Leveson-Gower was getting 
 together some interesting history connected with this chaplaincy. 
 Charles II died in 1685. The church was draped in purple cloth, 
 and terrible quarrelling took place as to its distribution after it was 
 taken down. Mary (William Ill's wife) died in 1694; purple cloth 
 again draped the church, and terrible quarrelling took place again 
 over its distribution. The Presbyterians shared our church, and 
 terrible quarrelling was the result. The German Lutherans shared 
 it also, and terrible quarrelling ensued between the several bodies. 
 A man designated " a reader " took the services, and seems to have 
 been a most undesirable individual. As I read all this "terrible 
 quarrelling," and much more, I was thankful to think that we did 
 better nowadays than that, and indeed in the two hundred interven- 
 ing years we ought to have been mending our ways. 
 
 One evening we attended a reception and ball given by Sir H, and 
 Lady Howard at the Legation, and met a number of interesting 
 
 388
 
 I904] PRINCE HENRY OF THE NETHERLANDS 389 
 
 people. All the Government functionaries and dignitaries were 
 present. Sir Henry presented me to Prince Henry of the Nether- 
 lands, the Queen's husband, who was interested to hear that I knew 
 Schwerin, his home. He told me that his father built the new 
 Schloss upon the site of the old castle which was burnt. We talked 
 also of Dresden, which he knows well, and of Coburg and the 
 Duke of Edinburgh. He speaks but little English, putting in 
 German words and waiting for them to be translated into English. 
 He is rather short, with sandy hair, a pleasant smile, and an affable 
 manner. The Queen was unwell, or would have been present. 
 The Dutch Minister of Foreign Affairs told me that his wife was 
 related to Bishop Otter, of Chichester. Sir Henry introduced me to 
 many officials, amongst others the Japanese Envoy. I told him I 
 wanted to see his country, and we talked much about it. He said 
 not a word about the war, but kept near the English all the evening, 
 as if he felt they were his best friends. The Dutch rather favour 
 Russia, being afraid for their Dutch East Indies if Japan grows too 
 powerful. Mouravieff, the Russian, was present. I need not add 
 that he and the Japanese Envoy did not fraternize. The Peace 
 Conference window — " Faith, Hope, and Charity " — in our church 
 at the Hague was given by an American, and is an artistic addition 
 to the interior. At Sir Henry's suggestion I went to the palace and 
 wrote my name in the Queen's and Prince's book. 
 
 Having confirmed and done my work at the Hague, I went on to 
 Diisseldorf, to endeavour to settle the differences in that chaplaincy, 
 and from thence to Berlin, where, as usual, I was Sir F. Lascelles' 
 guest at the Embassy. Princess Feodora, the Empress's sister, came 
 to lunch one day ; she is affable and pleasant. 
 
 A confirmation on 20 February was followed by a large reception 
 of the English and American colony in the ballroom of the Embassy. 
 Germany seemed to be with Japan in the war, but the papers and the 
 Government kept quiet and said nothing. The new bronzes lately 
 erected in the English church to the memory of our Queen and the 
 Empress Frederick are very good. I was pleased to make the ac- 
 quaintance of Mr. Towers, the American Ambassador, and his wife, 
 who had kindly invited me to stay with them, as it was thought the 
 British Embassy might be full, in view of the wedding of Sir Frank's 
 daughter. 
 
 One evening during my visit Prince Albert of Schleswig-Holstein 
 and Count Seckendorf came to dinner. The former I had not met
 
 390 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1904 
 
 since he was quartered at Uarmstadt, nor the latter since the death 
 of the Empress Frederick. 
 
 Sir Frank is ahvays interesting, living, as he does, in the centre of 
 German political life. He told me that after Cronje's defeat the 
 Czar approached the Emperor and proposed to offer mediation. 
 The Emperor, knowing that England would not wish it, declined 
 to move. Sir Frank repeated again and again how friendly the 
 Emperor was to England, and no one knows the Emperor more 
 intimately. Would that England could be brought to believe this ! 
 I told Sir Frank that he was placed at the very key of Europe, 
 and that, in view of his personal good terms with the Kaiser, 
 his position as Ambassador at Berlin was of the utmost import- 
 ance to England and the world. He said, "Yes, that is true, I 
 know it is important. I said, " This makes your stay here a 
 necessity." Sir Frank thought that a better feeling existed at 
 that time in Germany towards England than in England towards 
 Germany. 
 
 In referring to the Emperor, Sir Frank spoke of him as an 
 exceedingly able man, knowing everything, and the very man 
 needed in Europe. I told Sir Frank that I had always thought so, 
 and never lost an opportunity of telling people in England what a 
 true friend he had been to us ; that the Kaiser's was the most 
 valuable life in Europe, and the one that Europe could the least 
 spare, while to England his loss would be irreparable; that with- 
 out his constant and firm friendship through the dark days of the 
 Boer War a European combination against us would in all probability 
 have been the result of the strong feeling upon the Continent. To 
 this he entirely and emphatically agreed. He is never weary of the 
 subject ; it is evidently of the greatest interest and importance to 
 him, as well it may be. When I took leave of him next morning, 
 he said to me, " I am writing to the Foreign Office upon just what 
 we were talking of together last night." 
 
 From Berlin I went to Dresden, where I spent a week as the 
 guest of Lord and Lady Gough at the Legation, who kindly allowed 
 me to do the work of the chaplaincy from their house. 
 
 The Cazalets of Moscow were in Dresden, and we had much 
 talk about the war, which they thought a great mistake and likely 
 to last a long time. Mr. Cazalct told me that his son William was 
 building a house twelve miles from Moscow. When I asked if they 
 could live safely so far from the city, he said, " Well, they will have
 
 >904J LAST VISIT TO THE MONSONS 391 
 
 a watchman round the house at night and two big boar-hounds to 
 guard them." 
 
 From Dresden I went to Leipzig, where I did my work in very 
 cold weather, and then went on to Weimar and Gotha. Here all 
 is much changed since our good Duke of Edinburgh's death. He 
 was a great loss to us. One night I met at dinner the Hofprediger 
 (Court chaplain). He said that he heard me preach when the Duke 
 was present, adding that the Duke said to him afterwards, " Why 
 don't you preach as the Bishop did, without writing your sermon ? 
 Why he spoke to us as if he were our brother!" Gotha was 
 blocked with snow, and I was not sorry to get out of Thuringen — 
 ever a cold region in winter— to Heidelberg, where I stayed at 
 Neuenheim English college, and confirmed the boys, and then 
 travelled on to Wiesbaden for work, and thence to Lille and Bruges, 
 and so back to England via Ostend. 
 
 My next visitation was to the Paris, Swiss, and Belgian chap- 
 laincies. At Chantilly I confirmed the stable-boys, jockeys, etc., 
 and then went on to Paris. This was my last visit to my long- 
 standing and ever kind friends the Monsons at Paris ; as they were 
 leaving the service in September. Sir Edmund spoke much of 
 King Edward's visit, and described it as a great success ; also of 
 President Loubet's visit to London ; it quite carried away the 
 French people in their feelings towards us. 
 
 Upon taking leave of the Monsons I had to thank them for seven- 
 teen years of hospitality and kindness, the ever good and constant 
 friends of our Church at Copenhagen, Brussels, Vienna, and Paris. 
 We shall not see their like again. 
 
 After doing my work in the two Paris churches I went to 
 Lausanne and confirmed, going on to Vevey, preaching and con- 
 firming in our pretty Httle church, built by Mr. Street. From 
 Vevey I visited Neuchatel, and then to Zurich for our annual Con- 
 ference of chaplains. Here we had a most successful gathering, 
 and were entertained with much kind hospitality, Sir Cunningham 
 Greene, our Charge d'Affaires at Berne, coming to Zurich to take 
 part in the proceedings. I had not seen him since his return from 
 Pretoria, where he represented us up to his departure on the breaking 
 out of the war. 
 
 Bishop Webb kindly came from Sahsbury, and addressed us on our 
 quiet day. 
 
 I travelled direct from Zi.irich to Brussels, where I stayed with
 
 392 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1904 
 
 Sir Constantine Phipps at the Legation during my visitation of the 
 two chaplaincies, and thence to Antwerp, whence, having done my 
 work, I returned to England, via Harwich. 
 
 My autumn tour was but a short one. Visiting Cologne, I went 
 to Homburg, where I preached, and dedicated a set of windows in 
 the apse of our church, presented by the Duke of Rutland, in 
 memory of the Duchess. The Duchess died at Homburg, to which 
 place they were annual visitors.
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV 
 
 Daritzig, Konigsberg— A night in the lock-up at Wirballen on the Russian frontier 
 — News from the war in the Far East— Battle of Mukden — A dismal journey 
 in a derelict train to Libau — Experiences of an English boy in Russia — 
 Departure of Russian fleets from Lihau— Bilderlingshof and the frozen Baltic 
 — A visit to Maxim Gorky — His experience in the fortress of SS. Peter and 
 Paul— His share in "Red Sunday" — His opinion of the war — His literary 
 work — His respect for and love of England — Pobiedonostzeff — Riga in revolt 
 — Cossacks quartered in the factories — Attempt on life of Maximovitch — 
 Rebellion spreading over Lithuania and Courland — St. Petersburg — Its 
 attitude during the war and the revolution — The place where Plehve was 
 assassinated— Journey to Warsaw — A Russian view of India and possible 
 invasion — Warsaw a hornet's nest— Attempt on life of Chief of Police — Lodz, 
 Marki, etc. — Poland and its condition — A Polish funeral — Departure from 
 Warsaw — The frontier station of Alexandrowo — How it was guarded — A for- 
 midable adieu to the land of Cossacks and bombs — A Swedish country house. 
 
 THE year 1905 opened with a terribly interesting visit to Russia, 
 when that country was in the throes of revolt and anarchy, 
 in the midst of events destined to change the whole course and 
 history of that empire. I have known Russia for many years. 
 My first visit was after the Crimean War, in 1859, and my visits 
 since, for years past, have been frequent. But I have never known 
 her — and nobody has ever known her — in the condition in which I 
 found her upon the occasion of this present visit. Russia has had 
 many great national struggles, one exceptionally great, since the 
 Crimean War, but none of such a compound character, externally 
 and internally, as the present. A few notes made upon an episcopal 
 visitation may not be uninteresting at the moment of current history 
 that she was making — and making literally every day. 
 
 I made my way up northward by Berlin, turning aside to visit the 
 ancient cities of Dantzig and Konigsberg, in order to minister to 
 our fellow-countrymen residing in and around those somewhat 
 remote and out-of-the-way old-world places. Not three Englishmen, 
 perhaps, in the course of the year who pass up to St. Petersburg, 
 
 393
 
 394 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1905 
 
 turn aside at Dirschau to visit the birthplace of Fahrenheit, the 
 quaintest of all the old strongholds of the Hanseatic League. 
 These towns he far away from the German capital, the one three 
 hundred, the other four hundred miles north of Berlin. Both are 
 in Prussian-Poland and not far from the Russian border — one on 
 the Vistula, or Weichsel, as it is here called, as it flows out into the 
 Gulf of Dantzig, or Gdansk, as the native Poles call it ; the other 
 on the Pregel, within a few hours of the Russian frontier. Our 
 church at Dantzig is an old one, not unlike a little city church, 
 built when the town held a number of prosperous English 
 merchants. The scenes recorded in Merriman's Barlasch of the 
 Guard are laid at Dantzig, and his admirable description of the 
 place is most graphic. All may be clearly traced, for its streets, its 
 gateways, its towers, and its moats are those through which 
 Napoleon's Grand Army of 400,000 men of all nations passed to 
 Moscow nearly one hundred years ago ; and through which the 
 starved, ragged, frost-bitten remnant crept savagely upon its memor- 
 able retreat. The great roadway, or track, runs to-day, as it ran 
 then, away through Konigsberg across the frontier to Wilna, 
 Smolensk, Borodino, and Moscow, over a country the great novelist 
 so well describes, and is as dreary and inhospitable in 1905 as it was 
 in 181 1 : — 
 
 " There are, as God created it, few countries of a sadder aspect 
 than that which spreads between the Vistula and Moskwa. . . . The 
 sea would seem to be our earthly picture of infinite space, but no 
 sea speaks of distance so clearly as these plains of Lithuania — 
 absolutely flat, quite lonely ; the far-off belt of pines only leads the 
 eye to a shadow beyond which is another pine-wood ; and the 
 traveller walking all day towards it knows that when at length he 
 gets there he will see just such another on the horizon." 
 
 At Neufahrwasser on the Gulf, at the Vistula mouth, we have an 
 excellently appointed and well-worked institute for our British sailors 
 trading to and from the port of Dantzig, and worthy of the best 
 support we can give it. Here, and at the church in Dantzig, 
 assembled during my visit considerable numbers of our fellow- 
 countrymen and women for social gatherings and church services. 
 
 There is much of interest to see at Dantzig. The glorious old 
 Dom, the Marienkirche, some 380 feet long, with its fifty chapels, is 
 one of the largest in Christendom ; its unique reredos, rising a con- 
 siderable way towards the roof, set with scores of empty niches
 
 I905] DANTZIG 395 
 
 robbed of their silver figures by the Corsican robber to pay, among 
 other depredations, for his expedition to Moscow. The largest font 
 ever made, and of elaborately chased copper, stands at the west 
 end, tons upon tons in weight. A pyx, like that at Liibeck, spires up 
 far away towards the wall plates ; cases of priceless vestments, silver 
 plate, and treasures of Roman times are stored away behind glass 
 cases in great abundance. A grand Memling, the gem of the 
 minster's treasures, unfolds on hinged panelling the immense paint- 
 ing of his " Last Judgment,'' in which all the vast multitude are 
 absolutely naked. The lost are being so cast by Michael the Arch- 
 angel down to hell ; the redeemed, passing through angel bands, are 
 receiving each a robe — the robe of the righteousness of their Re- 
 deemer. The realistic character of the painting is a sermon, and a 
 very solemn one. The exquisite Artus Haus, with its ceiling, its 
 paintings, its black carved-oak staircase, and groined roof, from 
 which hang ancient ship models, is smaller, but, if possible, richer 
 than the neighbouring Rathhaus. Both must be seen; they cannot 
 adequately be described. 
 
 The gates of Dantzig are many, and each of different archi- 
 tecture. At one end of the town are no less than three of these 
 gates, all within a few yards of one another; those upon the river 
 and the canals are reached from without over drawbridges. The 
 Langemarkt and the Frauengasse are, perhaps, the quaintest of all 
 the quaint streets, with their l>eis/ilags, or open verandas, of 
 quaintly carved stone and wrought iron, No, 36 in the Frauengasse, 
 the home of the Sebastians, being among the quaintest. There is 
 also the treasure-house of Zschizinski, the Polish Jew, a collection of 
 enormous value, unique and priceless. Here he lives and sleeps 
 alone in his old-fashioned Polish house, a museum in itself, and a 
 sight well worth alone the journey to Dantzig. At Oliva, some seven 
 miles away upon the Gulf, is a fine monastic church, with cloisters, 
 abbot's house and grounds. In the summer time — when the Vistula 
 is free from ice — large barges are brought down the river from 
 the interior of Poland, laden with grain and other produce. The 
 encampments of these Poles in their national dress upon the river 
 banks is a frequent and picturesque subject for local artists. At 
 Dantzig, as at Kiel, are extensive Government and private dock- 
 yards, where men-of-war and cruisers for the German navy are built. 
 Just now the cruisers Berliji and Akxandrina are being built. A 
 German officer connected with the yards kindly spared me nearly two
 
 396 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1905 
 
 hours in taking me not only through the works, being carried on by 
 some five thousand men employed, but showing me also, in detail, 
 the cruisers in course of construction. Two men-of-war, three 
 large cruisers, and three smaller are being turned out of these yards 
 annually. 
 
 Konigsberg I must dismiss more briefly, or I shall tire my readers 
 before getting them to the Russian frontier. Here I spent Ash 
 Wednesday, holding a service and giving a celebration for our 
 shepherdless sheep of that far-away fold. I held it in a church lent 
 by the Old Catholics, the Pfarrer being present. The castle, where 
 the kings of Prussia are crowned, is a dark, sulky-looking old build- 
 ing, upon a slight elevation above the Pregel. The city is built, as 
 its southern eternal sister, upon seven hills, and is entered by seven 
 gates. Two lakes in the midst of the town, one of considerable 
 extent — now, of course, both frozen — are picturesque features, and 
 add much to the appearance of the place. Konigsberg is the birth- 
 place of Kant, to whose memory a statue, recently unveiled by the 
 Kaiser, has been erected upon the University Plain. 
 
 From Konigsberg to Eydkuhnen, the last station in Germany, is 
 a journey, by express, of about four hours, passing Insterberg, the 
 junction for historic Tilsit and Memel, now no longer one of my 
 chaplaincies, for the English have ceased out of that remote angulus 
 terrarum on the extreme edge of the Russian Empire, and our 
 church is closed. It was at Memel that the beautiful Queen Louise 
 took refuge with her little son Wilhelm— the old Kaiser of the 
 Franco-German War — when so cruelly insulted and ill-treated by 
 the ruffianly Napoleon. They stayed in the house of the British 
 Consul, the ancestor of the holder of that office at Memel to-day. 
 
 Scarcely any passengers were travelling towards Russia, the large 
 corridor carriage containing only two men. The reason was obvious, 
 From Eydkuhnen, the last station in far northern East Prussia, to 
 Wirballen, the first station in the Russian Empire, is but a few yards ; 
 but those few yards make all the difference. Race, language, appear- 
 ances of all and every kind — even to the rolling-stock of the railways, 
 the stations, the very colour of the posts and of the sentry-boxes 
 which stand looking at one another across the little nameless stream 
 which divides the two great empires — all are different. The very 
 gauge of the lines is different by several inches, that no Russian 
 train may run on to German territory, or German train on to Russian. 
 The Czar himself, when travelling to and from Russia by land, has
 
 1905] A NIGHT AT WIRBALLEN 
 
 >97 
 
 to turn out at Eydkuhnen coming westward, and at Wirballen going 
 eastward. From the Baltic to the Black Sea extends a line of sentry- 
 boxes, three deep, at intervals of a rifle-shot, so that fugitives escap- 
 ing one line of rifle fire have to run the gauntlet of the other two. 
 As soon as the train passes the rivulet, and it passes very slowly, 
 Russian soldiers step up on the footboards on either side to prevent 
 any possibility of passengers dropping out of the train without duly 
 accredited passports. No racial change in all the world of travel 
 can be more striking and complete than on passing this frontier. 
 The silent movements of the Russian officials in their strange dress, 
 moving about with the softness of leopards ; the square Tartar faces 
 of the fur-capped, white-aproned porters ; the one language and no 
 other spoken and written upon all notices — makes one feel a long 
 way from home, and very far eastwards. 
 
 Passports, at all times a grave consideration on the Russian 
 frontier, are of much graver moment at the present time. If all is 
 not in order in ordinary times, the delinquent is stopped, taken up 
 into one of the many little rooms above the great station, and there 
 locked up in durance vile until he can clear himself. With my 
 special passport provided by Lord Lansdowne, and visi by Count 
 Benckendorff, the Russian Ambassador in London, I was bowed out 
 of the great hall at once into the waiting-rooms ; my luggage passed, 
 with the laissez passer^ also furnished by the Russian Embassy, 
 with the same dispatch. So far so good, and all had gone well. 
 
 Now, however, came my troubles. No one seemed to know 
 when I could get on to Libau, the next point on my journey, and 
 no one spoke even German good enough to tell me what they did 
 know, much less any English. One ofificial said that there used to be 
 a connecting train "last year, but not this year; all was changed." 
 Another told me I could get on at 9 a.m. next morning, another 
 said not till the afternoon of the next day ; no two agreed ; most 
 of them knew nothing ; all seemed disorganization and confusion. 
 What was to be done ? No hotels are allowed on the frontier, lest 
 suspicious characters should shelter in them and slip over into 
 Germany. There were those small rooms already referred to — cells 
 they really are — and nothing more. At this juncture I fell upon a 
 porter, a Russian, who had been in America, and spoke fair English. 
 I felt grateful to the United States for having taught that man our 
 tongue, for he saved me the situation. There was, he assured me, 
 no alternative, for the waiting-rooms would be closed when the
 
 398 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1905 
 
 St. Petersburg express had gone. This Russo-American friend took 
 charge of me, arranged my sleeping accommodation, and gave me 
 in charge of a woman, who brought me hot water in a white teapot 
 without a lid, and mumbling something in Russian about "pass- 
 ports" — by which I gathered she supposed I was detained upon 
 that account — wished me good-night. There I tried to sleep, a 
 profound silence falling upon the great station when the St. Peters- 
 burg express had started for the north. 
 
 The next morning the station was alive with low-class Russians 
 from the country districts, dirty, ragged, unwashed, bundles of 
 squalor. The only trains that bring travellers of the upper class 
 are the very few expresses — fewer now in this distracted time than 
 ever — coming and going to and from the main towns in Germany, 
 Poland, and Russia. In due course the Pennsylvanian-Russian 
 came and announced that I could get on, if I wished to do so, to a 
 station called Koschedari, upon the main line to the north, where I 
 should have to change, stay several hours, and take the only train in 
 the afternoon now running between that station and Libau. Into 
 that train he put me, with what result I will presently relate. 
 
 Koschedari is not a cheerful place in which to be stranded for 
 some hours. It is a dismal and very ill-begotten little station 
 dropped upon a deadly level plain, above the horizon of which the 
 trains — few and very far between — appear, either way, as small 
 black flies crawling over the edge of the world. In the present 
 distress one such fly creeps daily to and from Libau — the port to 
 which I am bound. The pace of trains in this country is so 
 Russian that upon the appearance of these flies on the horizon the 
 passenger has ample time to get a last meal — such as it is, for he 
 will find nothing on board — before the apparent insect assumes its 
 due proportions, develops into a train, and draws up at the platform. 
 
 I whiled away the time waiting for this uncertain daily arrival 
 by talking, in mutually bad German, to a couple of young Russians 
 in uniform, who, coming from Wilna, were travelling into Courland. 
 They were lamenting, in common with all other poor Russians, 
 the great disaster at Mukden, but lamenting cheerfully, for the 
 Muscovite takes his reverses with a manful stoicism that inspires 
 respect. I told them that we too had experienced reverses in 
 South Africa, that war was ever full of uncertain factors, and that 
 the unforeseen came frequently to pass. The elder of the two 
 lads, who acted as Mercurius, said that the Biiren had certainly
 
 ^9oS] A DISMAL JOURNEY yyj 
 
 overthrown us with a " grosse schlacht," but did not seem to think 
 the cases at all parallel ; nor did my affected cheerfulness inspire 
 him with much confidence in the Russian cause. As Wordsworth 
 puts it in the case of the deserted soldier's wife — 
 
 She thanked ine for the wish, 
 But for the hope, methought, she did not thank me. 
 
 A convoy of deserters marching past along a platform, surrounded 
 by a detachment of soldiers with fixed bayonets— runaways, pre- 
 sumably, from the prospects of being entrained for service in the 
 Far East— accentuated the situation. A ragged, greasy, sheep- 
 skinned following of bemoaning women brought up the rear, 
 Russians are never demonstrative either in their sorrows, of which 
 they have many, or in their joys, of which they have but few— 
 they are a silent, suffering, and wonderfully enduring people. 
 These, as they went bewailing softly brothers, sweethearts, sons, or 
 husbands, as the case might be, did not detract from the depress- 
 ing surroundings. As I left the main line, I looked with interest 
 along the broad-gauge rails stretching away through the snow from 
 here to where the great retreat from Mukden to Harbin was being 
 enacted at the other end of the empire. As station after station 
 was reached, the same solemn, silent crowd stood upon the plat- 
 forms to hear the last news, or buy the last paper. The line of 
 anxious, patient faces standing, en queue, at the bookstalls, waiting 
 for the daily papers which the train brings, was most pathetic. 
 Officials in uniform, soldiers, poor men and women ; mere bundles 
 of rags and squalor, with evident personal anxiety, slunk behind the 
 well-dressed with just as heavy hearts and haunting fears upon their 
 sad and sallow faces as to what they might hear of those who had 
 gone from them to the Far East — a patient, dogged, hopeless look, 
 as if they had suffered too long to have any hope of better news 
 and a turning tide. It was a painful sight to stand among them as 
 they held out the small brown kopeks in their trembling hands for 
 the wretched little sheet of " latest news," with which they crept 
 away to their distant villages, like dogs with a bone, to devour it 
 alone in their misery. 
 
 The train in which I travelled was, as to first-class passengers, 
 absolutely empty through the entire day and night. No one, save a 
 few peasants, seemed to be travelling, in these regions at all events, 
 of this distracted land. The rolling stock upon this Libau line was 
 almost as bad as it could be. The excuse was that great numbers of
 
 400 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1905 
 
 carriages had gone to the seat of war to act as hospitals and for 
 other uses. The windows were filthy, the lantern for the one candle, 
 which is supposed to light the carriage, hopelessly bespattered with 
 weeks of ancient grease ; the thermometer stood useless, for there 
 was little or no heat to record ; the lavatories broken, waterless, 
 unusable. It snowed ever wearily, a low-spirited mournful snow. 
 To creep for a day and a night across these white plains, with that 
 everlasting " thump-dump " in one's ears, so well known to winter 
 travellers in Russia, caused by the unyielding rail-joints upon the 
 frozen earth, is depressing. And with the entire corridor-carriage 
 empty, the solitude of the journey was at times almost unbear- 
 able. 
 
 Noiselessly — for Russia is probably the most silent land in the 
 world — the train glides into station after station, where there are 
 ever the same sad, yellow faces ; the same crowd of befurred and 
 bearded Jews carrying the inevitable bag upon their backs; the 
 same bundled-up women (hardly distinguishable as to sex) trudging 
 about and showing, happily, the smallest possible morsel of their 
 pinched and wizened faces ; the same long stop to drink vodka and 
 discuss the news, for time is of no account, there is plenty of it, say 
 the Russians, in their country, for it is a large one. Silently, with 
 no cheery guard, as in other lands, to wave his parting flag, the train 
 moves on again, verst after verst, with nothing to look at but what 
 Mr. Seton Merriman truly calls " the saddest aspect in all the world." 
 
 Upon getting out one night at a station in search of tea, I had 
 literally to feel my way back to my compartment, which possessed 
 the only candle in the entire corridor. The opposite door to that 
 at which I entered with my tea was open. I did not know it, and 
 had I taken another step must inevitably have gone out, tea and all, 
 upon the frozen railway lines. After this a friendly guard — sad, of 
 course, but friendly — brought me some tea. I knew it had been 
 manufactured in the dilapidated lavatory, for I had seen all his 
 apparatus there, and he in full operation upon several occasions ; 
 for with a Russian there is but one alternative when he cannot get 
 vodka — he makes tea. I did not like to seem unresponsive to his 
 friendly act, but I declined that tea. Courteous and unresentful, he 
 took it to the third-class people — men and women to whom the 
 blissfulness of ignorance would be no argument in favour of a wise 
 folly — for he returned presently with an array of empty glasses and 
 squeezed lemon slices.
 
 I905] ENGLISH BOY IN RUSSIAN PRISONS 401 
 
 The fidelity with which Russian women follow their husbands 
 when in trouble or disgrace is very touching. Railway {jlatforms 
 furnish painful scenes by no means infrequently, for every station, 
 however small, has its police in uniform and sabre; the larger 
 stations have several, and just now they have plenty to do. In such 
 cases there is invariably a little crowd of sobbing women, who 
 always seem bent upon following their menkind wherever they may 
 be taken, and to whatever lot may be in store for them. 
 
 These Russian peasant women may be ugly, but they are wonder- 
 fully faithful creatures, and the way in which they stand by 
 husbands and sweethearts, brothers and sons, is most touching ; to 
 prison or death, and, what is worse, to Siberia or Saghalien, it matters 
 not — away they trudge, mere bundles of rags and sheepskins, but 
 with brave and kindly hearts wrapped away beneath. Another 
 interesting feature of travelling in Russia at this time was the spirit of 
 scramble that manifested itself; poor at all times, the lower classes 
 were — owing to the war — poorer then than ever. It was not easy to 
 get your change when you tendered a superior coin ; the official, or 
 waiter, or whatever he might be, had a way of disappearing to 
 some ungetatable part of the station until the train was gone, and 
 you saw him no more. It was therefore necessary to carry abundance 
 of small change. 
 
 Libau, at which I arrived about 2 a.m. upon a snowy, bleak 
 winter's morning, had passed through rough times. To state that it 
 was patrolled by dragoons and Cossacks day and night was only to 
 state the condition of all Russian towns just then. Houses were 
 visited at intervals by the police in search of suspects and mani- 
 festoes, and all seemed in expectation of "something more." The 
 hastily constructed raw plank shutters fixed to the shop-fronts still 
 stood on their hinges, ready again for use should another rising lead, 
 as before, to the looting of shops and destruction of property. 
 
 I was told a story here that may be of some interest as illustrating 
 the system — which has caused much comment in the European 
 Press — of sending back Russian refugees who cross the frontier 
 into Germany, In this case it was an English boy, named Barnet 
 Baker, living in Manchester. The incident occurred three years 
 ago, when he was twelve years old. His father sent him from 
 Manchester to Konigsberg, in East Prussia, to consult an oculist. 
 On his way the boy was robbed when asleep of all the money upon 
 him. In his helpless condition he fell into the hands of the German 
 2 D
 
 402 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1905 
 
 police. At that time the German Government was actively sending 
 Russian refugees back across the frontier, and this boy, having told 
 the police that his father was a Russian Jew, was so sent back. He 
 was put into prison, being moved about, during his three years' 
 imprisonment, to several Russian prisons. Lately, when fifteen years 
 old, he escaped, and made his way to Libau, where the Jews hid, 
 sheltered, and were kind to him. They inquired of an English 
 trading vessel if it would take him to England. Those in authority 
 on board said that if the boy chose to stow himself away they 
 would not interfere with him. He did so, and was landed in 
 London, whence he made his way to Manchester. When he 
 reached Libau the poor little chap was in a most terrible condition 
 — filthy, half-starved, and in rags. 
 
 The getting of refugees over the frontiers out of Russia is quite 
 a system. Since so many hundreds have found their way across to 
 England during the Far Eastern War, it may be of interest to 
 describe it. The trade, for it is nothing else, exists among the 
 Jews, who take up their abode upon the frontier to assist refugees to 
 cross. The runaways pay so much to these Jews, who give the 
 sentries a couple of bottles of vodka or so, and they are allowed to 
 slip across. The sentries are placed three deep along the frontiers 
 from the Baltic — stationed out far upon the ice in the winter — to 
 the Black Sea. They are posted within rifle-shot of one another, 
 so that if a refugee escapes the first line of sentries, he has still to 
 run the gauntlet of two more. Dark nights and foggy weather are 
 chosen for the venture. 
 
 The Social Democrats were issuing in Libau, as elsewhere, constant 
 manifestoes calling upon the students and others to rise ; the finding 
 of these in any house, or upon any one's person, would be sufficient 
 cause for arrest. As a curiosity, I possessed myself of one, the 
 terms of which it would be well, perhaps, not to quote. They were, 
 of course, violently hostile to the Government. The Moscow 
 notices, which caused such a stir in England, stating that we and 
 the Japanese were furnishing money throughout Russia for revolu- 
 tionary purposes, were also posted up at Libau. Many were torn 
 down by the populace, who knew this to be false, the very school- 
 boys writing the word " lies " in Lettish and Russian under them. 
 
 It was from Libau that all the Baltic fleets sailed for the Far 
 East. The October fleet, which fired upon the Dogger Bank 
 fishermen, got out before the ice closed in. For the other a channel
 
 I90S1 FROM LIBAU TO RIGA 403 
 
 had to be broken by ice-crushers. A good picture appeared in 
 Black and White of 1 1 March of the last fleet making its way 
 through the ice, crowds standing upon the edge of the open channel 
 cheering the vessels as they passed through. Two put back into 
 Libau disabled while I was there. As I was leaving Libau for Riga 
 a mounted patrol rode up the railway line and along the platform, 
 the lines having to be watched and guarded, being indeed in the 
 hands of the military and under martial law. 
 
 The route to Riga from Libau lies through Esthonia and Cour- 
 land, entirely across dreary plains and enormous tracts of forests, 
 pine and birch. There is no forest like a northern one. In England 
 pine woods have no undergrowth whatever. In those of the far 
 north the ground is one beautiful varied carpet, thickly set with 
 hummocks of lichens, reindeer moss, and small growth of all kinds ; 
 whortleberries, dwarf junipers, and all sorts of bright-leaved plants, 
 which, protected from the severe frosts of winter by the trees above, 
 are of a dark evergreen and brilliantly bright. The ground never 
 perhaps altogether thaws deep down, even in summer, certainly not 
 in Siberia. When therefore the ice and snow disappear the face of 
 the country is flooded for weeks, the water being unable to get away 
 below. This is no doubt a provision of nature, taking the place of 
 rain. It keeps the earth moist through the scorching three months 
 of summer till the ice and snow come again, thus providing 
 moisture for the next summer. If the melted snow water could run 
 off — which it cannot do in this absolutely flat country — or could get 
 down through the frozen ground, vegetation would be burnt up. 
 
 At times during the night (on the branch lines at all events) the 
 train has a way of coming to a standstill in the open country. It 
 seems as if both driver and locomotive had gone to sleep. A pro- 
 found silence falls upon the train, till a dismal wail from the engine 
 and the renewed creaking of the carriages announces that they are 
 on their way again. Vodka is, no doubt, at the bottom of these 
 stoppages, and if taken in sufficient quantities is a soporific in which 
 the Russian greatly delights. 
 
 One could but mark a more independent spirit abroad among 
 the lower classes than before the spirit of lawlessness took pos- 
 session of the country. It was observable in little things, and it 
 was universal. There was an attitude of equality foreign entirely 
 to the Slav. I saw this very clearly upon one occasion. T \va.«; 
 driving with a friend in a somewhat smart carriage and pair of
 
 404 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1905 
 
 horses. A droschky driver knocked up against our wheel. Our 
 coachman let out at him, not only with tongue but with whip. In 
 other days the man would have taken this submissively, whereas he 
 rose in his seat and lashed our horses so viciously that they bolted 
 forward and nearly broke the pole of the carriage against a loaded 
 wagon in front of us. He then dashed off as fast as he could go, lest 
 we should give him in charge. 
 
 What was worthy of observation and note at Bilderlingshof, upon 
 the Gulf of Finland, where I stayed some days — having an interview 
 during my visit with Maxim Gorky, who was out on bail — will be 
 read, I think, with interest. 
 
 Bilderlingshof, which takes its name from one of the Russian 
 generals now in the Far East, is in summer a bathing-place on the 
 Gulf of Riga. During my visit the Gulf was frozen like the Arctic 
 regions, and the place — with houses closed — slept beneath the winter 
 snow. Here I heard the full extent and details of the catastrophe at 
 Mukden, for news oozes out but slowly in Russia. No news, in 
 Russia, is bad news, such inteUigence being invariably for a time 
 suppressed ; it has to be broken diplomatically and by instalments 
 to the people. Forty-five thousand Russian prisoners, and no one 
 knew what the result would be ! It was feared that even should peace 
 be made, the enormous defeated army upon its return would turn 
 against the Government and cause a revolution, so hated was the war, 
 and so bitter would the vanquished army be. 
 
 A dense forest of pine trees at Bilderlingshof runs down to the 
 water's edge, for the Baltic has no wide waste shore such as we know 
 in England. This dark blue-green coast-line stretches away east 
 and west as far as the eye can reach. Below outspreads the great 
 frozen sea, to reach which one has to clamber over some half-dozen 
 waves that seem to have been arrested in the very act of breaking 
 upon the shore when the ice-grip came down from the Arctic north 
 and froze them as they broke. Beyond these lay one vast, flat 
 expanse of ice, dotted with the little sledges of the Courland 
 peasants, and looking like small brown flies glancing about upon the 
 surface of a huge bridal cake. Scattered at intervals over the frozen 
 surface were masses of hummock-ice standing up silent and motion- 
 less under the grasp of 60° of frost. These are created at the 
 beginning of winter by slabs of drift-ice thrown by the wind upon 
 the already freezing surface and blown along till caught by some 
 obstruction against which they pile, in some instances to the appear-
 
 I90S] THE FROZEN BALTIC 405 
 
 ance of small glaciers. From the top of these ice-hills a wild 
 strange view stretched away in all directions ; landward lay the ajijjar- 
 ently interminable pine forest, continuous as if it belted the world ; 
 east and west the Arctic waste of snow-covered ice; due north a 
 section of open water, dark as indigo, opened by the wind from a 
 certain quarter to-day, to be closed up and humniocked together 
 again to-morrow. An endless supply from the ice-fields of the Gulf 
 of Finland (eastward) and Bothnia (northward) was always at hand, 
 and answered to the call of every wind that blows. 
 
 It was a weird, wintry scene, brilliant beyond description in the 
 northern sunshine, and worth alone the journey from England to 
 look upon. Seals there were in abundance, slipping and sliding about 
 out of sight behind the hummock-ice, rearing themselves from their 
 winter drowsiness to look sleepily about them, waiting for the 
 moving of the waters. Of other living creatures there were absolutely 
 none — the grey-hooded crow excepted, which, like the poor, is ever 
 present in this land of poverty. He sat about everywhere, silent, 
 hunched, morose, hungry. 
 
 The Bohemian waxwings were somewhere behind in the depths 
 of the forest, waiting also for better times, which come when the 
 bee-eaters and golden orioles arrive. However, the flight of birds 
 northwards had already, in small measure, commenced. The star- 
 Hngs were returning from India — first sign of ending winter — and the 
 pied woodpeckers had begun to tap the trees in their endeavours 
 to awake their insect food from its long dark winter's sleep. Though 
 it was our 14th of March it was but the Russian ist of March, and the 
 spiky leaf of the Siberian snowdrop had, as yet, not ventured to show 
 itself. The reindeer moss was everywhere, round and white as the 
 snow beside which it sits. Across this ice-bound promontory 
 between the Gulf of Finland and the River Aa, the wind came 
 sighing and soughing dismally day and night, absolutely the only 
 sound in all this northern creation. It was difficult to realize in the 
 midst of this solitude that at the other end of the empire, " with 
 confused noise and garments rolled in blood," was being waged, day 
 by day, the deadliest struggle the world had ever seen. 
 
 A month ago three English steamers were frozen in off this coast 
 with thirty feet of ice round them till the Yermack ice-breaker came 
 to their rescue and freed them. Some people in this neighbour- 
 hood, curious to see how she crushed her way through, went out in 
 her thinking to return in a few hours. The wind suddenly changed.
 
 4o6 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1905 
 
 the ice came down in vast masses, holding the ice-killer fast in its 
 grip for two days, and it might have been weeks had the wind 
 remained in the same quarter. 
 
 When any open water shows upon the horizon, the Courland 
 fishermen rush out in their sledges for miles to get what they can 
 before the ice closes again. Upon this fairyland of ice I used to 
 walk almost daily in the radiant sunshine. Out of the ice-bound 
 East the sun rose daily without a cloud, and into the ice-bound West 
 it set also cloudless. In the evening we returned to the pleasant 
 wooden house in the forest, and enjoyed stories of Russian life and 
 Tchaikovsky's music. One evening we were told of a peasant upon 
 a farm in the neighbourhood having been torn to pieces lately by a 
 wolf. Amongst other stories, too numerous to relate, I cannot resist 
 giving one because it is so Russian. A man living some eighty 
 versts from a railway station— no great distance in this country — 
 drove up in a sledge, and asked a passenger upon the platform if 
 there was a train expected. " Oh, yes," replied the passenger, 
 " I have been expecting one for two days and a half, and I don't 
 think it can be very long now." 
 
 One day during my visit to Bilderlingshof I called upon Gorky, 
 the novelist. All Russian names have a meaning. Gorky means 
 "the bitter one"; Kuropatkin, "the son of a partridge " ; Tolstoi, 
 "the stout one," and so forth. I went with my hostess Mrs. 
 Addison, who speaks Russian perfectly. We had heard that he was 
 ill, and it was doubtful if he would be able to receive us, as we 
 understood he had been refusing all visitors. We sent in our cards, 
 and after some little delay a message came that he would be happy 
 to see us. We were shown into a small but cheerful little room, the 
 tables of which were scattered with books and writing materials. A 
 sofa covered with rugs, upon which he had evidently been lying, 
 stood towards the side of the room. In a few minutes the novelist 
 came in, and shaking hands, with much bowing begged us to be 
 seated. He is a rather tall and slightly-built man, colourless as are 
 all Russians, with light moustache and pointed beard, both of which 
 he constantly twisted and stroked as he conversed with an almost 
 nervous persistence. His hair, coupe a la Jiusse, was long and 
 hanging down behind. He was dressed, as all Russians of his 
 class, entirely in black — black-belted tunic, fitting close and high up 
 to the chin ; black breeches tucked into high black boots, and a 
 silver chatelaine hanging from his girdle. The interview lasted about
 
 '905] VISIT TO MAXIM GORKY 407 
 
 an hour. Three times my hostess moved to go, urging that he was 
 not well, and that we must not tire him ; but as often he begged us 
 to stay, insisting that he wished the English Bishop to hear every- 
 thing he had to say and hoped he would make it known. He 
 opened the conversation by asking, " May I smoke ? " I had thought 
 to see a common, coarse peasant, for he rose from that class, whereas 
 he is refined, gentle, eloquent, and, as my hostess assured me, 
 speaks beautiful Russian, expressing himself as a man of education 
 and cultivation. His voice was clear and sweet, notwithstanding the 
 cold from which he was suffering, contracted, as he explained, during 
 the month that he lay a prisoner in the fortress of SS. Peter and 
 Paul at Petersburg. He said that his cell was damp and cold, and 
 his prison dress of coarse canvas not warm enough, but, he added, 
 that it was not so bad after all, the soldiers on guard and his atten- 
 dant gaolers, knowing and admiring his writings and plays, which are 
 being acted very generally in Russian theatres, treating him with 
 kindness and consideration. 
 
 His conversation divided itself into three parts. He said that he 
 had travelled throughout Russia on foot, visiting the monasteries, 
 and inquiring into the religious condition of things. To this he had 
 devoted years. The result of his observation and inquiries was to 
 convince him that the monks and clergy generally were ignorant and 
 unable to teach the religion which they professed, that superstition 
 and formality pervaded their so-called religion, and that there was no 
 reality about it. They taught that there were sixty or seventy 
 Virgin Marys ; they taught the saints and the Virgin, but not the 
 Gospel ; it was sheer polytheism ; as to dogmatic teaching, it did not 
 exist. Somewhat abruptly he asked me if 1 disliked what he had 
 written, and supposed I did. I replied that I had read some of his 
 writings, but made no comment upon them. He then assured me, 
 with an empressemerit that was evidently sincere, that he had never 
 written and never would write anything against religion — quite the 
 reverse ; that he earnestly desired to see his people taught true and 
 vital religion. I told him that I was very glad to hear this from him. 
 He asked me if I had heard of the various sects in Russia; I 
 mentioned some. Had I heard of the Duchoborzi, fifty thousand 
 of whom were anxious to emigrate to Canada and seek there the 
 religious freedom denied them in Russia ? I rt-plied that certainly 
 I had heard of these people for years — notably the rascolniki (dis- 
 senters from the orthodox faith consequent upon the corrected
 
 4o8 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1905 
 
 translation of the Scriptures — in 1666, by the Patriarch Nicon), but 
 should be glad to know what he had to say of them. He said, with 
 much warmth and enthusiasm, that he himself was a man, and sought 
 the freedom these sects were seeking; that it was the wish of his 
 heart that his countrymen should rise above such ignorance and 
 superstition and be men also. He spoke eagerly and very rapidly, 
 and my hostess told me it was most difficult to keep pace, as in- 
 terpreter, with his utterances. I spoke of his books having been 
 translated into English, referring specially to one of his works. He 
 said that versions of them, both in French and English, had been 
 sent to him by the translators. 
 
 What Gorky stated as to the ignorance of the people generally 
 throughout Russia is only too terribly true. How can it be other- 
 wise when the Procurator of the Holy Synod, M. Pobiedonostzeff, 
 has himself made this written statement : — 
 
 " The religious life of a people like ours, who are abandoned to 
 themselves and left untaught, is sacramental. The Bible is non- 
 existent for illiterate people, for whom all that remains are Divine 
 service and certain prayers. In some lonely places the people 
 understand absolutely nothing, neither the words of the Church 
 service, nor even the ' Our Father ' ; and yet, in all these untutored 
 minds, is erected, as at Athens, one knows not by whom, an altar to 
 the Unknown God. ... If our people are ignorant in matters of 
 faith, saturated in superstition, spoiled by reprehensible and vicious 
 habits, and if our clergy are rude, ignorant, and sluggish it is not 
 important ! " 
 
 I then asked Gorky his opinion of the war. He said it was a most 
 unpopular one, hated throughout Russia, that Russians neither wished 
 for it, nor understood for what reason or advantage it was being 
 waged; that it had ruined the peasants, was ruining the country 
 generally, and that the army went to it most reluctantly. He had 
 seen vans, with no apparatus for heating, constructed to hold forty 
 men, crowded and crammed with seventy, and when the soldiers 
 remonstrated and resisted by shutting the doors, their officers would 
 knock them about with their sabres and drive them in by force. 
 Their wives and families would crowd round the trains and protest 
 against their being sent away to the Far East, throwing their children 
 into the vans, unable to support them unaided by their husbands. 
 It was a war, he said, waged not for the benefit of Russia, but for 
 that of the bureaucracy.
 
 I90S] VISIT TO MAXIM GORKY 409 
 
 He then gave us a detailed account of the events of what is now 
 known as "Vladimir's Sunday." He told us at considerable length 
 the part he took in those events and the reason of his being sent to 
 the fortress. He and several of his literary friends holding the same 
 views as himself went on the Saturday to M. Witte, and urged him 
 not to allow the military to interfere with those who were coming un- 
 armed to seek constitutional reform from the Czar. He insisted that 
 they were peaceful people and not revolutionists ; that they intended 
 only to march unarmed, headed by Father Gapon — whom he called 
 "a most religious priest" — bearing his cross, the holy pictures (the 
 cherubim was his expression), and portraits of the Emperor and 
 Empress. They implored the Ministry and those in authority to 
 withdraw the troops from the positions they had taken up, or collision 
 and bloodshed would be the result. This was refused, and they were 
 dismissed abruptly as disaffected and revolutionary leaders. The 
 next day (Sunday), as the crowds passed over the Vasili Ostroff, or 
 Basil Island of the Neva, and made their way towards the Winter 
 Palace, they were confronted with and fired upon by the soldiers, 
 with the result, as all the world knows, of the slaughter of men, 
 women, and children to the number, he stated, of two thousand. 
 
 '• We went," he said, with much excitement of gesture and speech, 
 " as peaceful people seeking reform from the Czar ; we are now no 
 longer such. I then wrote," he concluded, "to the Czar to this 
 effect : That we had warned the authorities ; that we had gone with 
 peaceful intentions, our good faith being evidenced by the women 
 and children who went with us ; that we held the Czar responsible 
 for the massacre of defenceless men, women, and children. For 
 this," he said, " I was taken and confined in the fortress. My wife 
 was at the time very ill, supposed for a week to be dying, and I had 
 no tidings of her condition. I am now let out on bail, but shall be 
 had up again for trial, and no doubt imprisoned again in the fortress 
 of SS. Peter and Paul." I asked him if he would like to visit 
 England. There was nothing, he replied, that he would like more. 
 It was the wish of his heart ; England was the home of liberty, and 
 Englishmen its champions throughout the world. He was passion- 
 ately fond of our history and literature, and admired everything 
 English. He told me that he had that day been photographed, and 
 would send me a copy of his portrait. 
 
 We then rose to go. I thanked him for the interesting informa- 
 tion he had given me, and expressed a hope that he would soon be
 
 4IO CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1905 
 
 rid of the cough and cold that were evidently troubling him, being 
 frequently interrupted by it during the recital of his adventures. 
 Rising, he wished us good-bye ; grasping my hand, and dropping 
 his voice, he said with a sadness that was almost pathetic, " I am a 
 solitary man, and don't like publicity." 
 
 My next point upon leaving Bilderlingshof was Riga. Here I 
 found everything at extreme political and social tension, the in- 
 habitants full of apprehension as to what would happen next. 
 Already there had been an attempt to capture the railway station 
 at the end of the great bridge over the Dwina, the assailants, in 
 great force, being repulsed by Cossacks and many killed. Cossacks 
 and dragoons were quartered in the factories to overawe the work- 
 men, but as they were found to be patronizing with the artisans, 
 the Government were withdrawing them. Proclamations at Riga 
 were being distributed broadcast, and more openly than at Libau. 
 The police, indeed, seemed powerless to stem the tide of this 
 revolutionary literature. To have issued such things before the 
 war would have been impossible. Siberia would have been the 
 prompt reply. But now the people had got beyond control. Half 
 the nation and more would have to go to the fortress of SS. Peter 
 and Paul, or to Siberia. 
 
 My host at Riga was in Petersburg on " Vladimir's Day," and saw 
 a good deal of the proceedings. He escaped more than once the 
 charges of detachments of Cossacks, taking refuge in arches and 
 courtyards, in one of which he stumbled in his haste over six dead 
 bodies. The Cossacks hate the Russians, and look upon it as 
 mere sport to charge indiscriminately into and cut down a Russian 
 crowd. Their whips {naghdikies) are leaded and are terribly for- 
 midable weapons. I got one from the Cossack barracks in Riga 
 as a memento of my visit to Russia at this historic time. Cossacks 
 are not employed so much in Poland ; Russian soldiers will act as 
 willingly there against the Poles as Cossacks in Russia proper. 
 
 Notwithstanding all this anarchy the congregations at all three 
 services in our church were very good. At eleven the church was 
 full ; at the confirmation in the afternoon the crowd was standing to 
 the west doors. 
 
 The next day I was across the river in Courland, at one of the 
 many factories, where fifty Cossacks had been quartered. They 
 were Cossacks of the Don, and the wife of the English manager, 
 who had to provide for them for some weeks, told me that they
 
 1905] ANARCHY IN RUSSIA 411 
 
 behaved exceedingly well, and when withdrawn Ijy the Govern- 
 ment for getting famihar with the factory hands, expressed them- 
 selves as most grateful for tlie hospitality of their English hostess. 
 The evening before my visit to this factory thirty revolutionists were 
 shot — not all being killed — and eighty arrested in a wood immedi- 
 ately behind the works. It was not particularly pleasant to drive 
 through the streets of Riga in a private carriage ; the multitudes of 
 disaffected " out-of-works " looked with no friendly eyes at any one 
 who appeared to be an official or a representative of the bureaucracy, 
 I used to tell my hostess that I always felt safer when she accom- 
 panied me, because they did not blow up " official wives " with 
 their husbands ! 
 
 The night before I left Riga, and by the same evening train in 
 which I travelled to Petersburg, an attempt was made upon the life 
 of Maximovitch, the judge who had come from the capital to try 
 the revolutionists of last month. He fortunately took the precau- 
 tion of joining the train at the first station out of Riga. Thinking 
 that his carriage was occupied, it was fired into at a level crossing 
 as it left the city. It was a narrow escape. As the reservists marched 
 through the streets they were ordered to " sing," in order to appear 
 willing to go to the war, and to make the populace believe that they 
 approved of its prosecution. It was, however, but a dismal dirge that 
 they made of it as they went wailing along, downcast, wretched, forlorn ; 
 being to all alike, military and civilians, a hated and detested war. 
 
 One of the worst features in the internal condition of Russia was 
 the attitude of the peasants in country districts. They were rising 
 everywhere against the landowners, and demanding rights to which 
 they were not in any way entitled, asserting that the land belonged to 
 them, and that they would have it. They said that when Alexander II 
 freed the serfs it was his intention that they should possess the soil. 
 Acting upon this, they were looting the country-houses, attacking 
 the farmsteads, threatening the proprietors, and cutting down the 
 timbers. Many landlords fled into the towns ; many more were 
 preparing to do so. Even in the towns those on strike came to 
 the houses of the well-to-do classes, and in an insolent, high-handed 
 manner, did not ask for, but demanded money and bread. 
 
 An English lady told me that one day her house had been so 
 visited, and that she gave them the bread and money which they 
 threatened to break in for and take if it were not given ; and this 
 in such a city as Riga, which was patrolled closely with Cossacks and
 
 412 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1905 
 
 dragoons, and ostensibly guarded with an unusually strong body of 
 police ! The fact was that the people had got beyond authority, and 
 it was not the Government that ruled, but anarchy. Two years ago 
 such meetings as were then openly held in defiance of law, such anti- 
 Government utterances as were everywhere heard, and such republi- 
 can demonstrations as were made, would have been impossible. 
 
 I always make it my practice to call upon the orthodox bishops 
 wherever I stay. At Riga I called on the Archbishop of Riga and 
 Courland. Libau has no bishop, but the Archpriest accepted the 
 invitation to meet me, and expressed his intention, though pre- 
 vented at the last moment, to be present at the confirmation. The 
 priest of the military church attended both reception and confirma- 
 tion, watching the service with deep attention. 
 
 From Riga I went to Petersburg, travelling through the night, 
 and awoke to a sunrise over newly-fallen snow. The great birch 
 trees in the park at Gatchina — the Windsor of Russia, and about 
 an hour from the capital — are always a glory at this season. Covered 
 with hoar frost, or as they then were, with fresh-fallen snow, and 
 glittering under the brilliant northern sun, they looked like gigantic 
 fountains of silver spray thrown over the park in all directions. 
 Gatchina is the first civilized-looking place after the long journey 
 through thinly -scattered, brown, wooden -hutted villages, the only 
 evidence of human life — such as it is — upon the monotonous land- 
 scape. Here lives the Dowager Empress Dagmar, and a little 
 further towards Petersburg, at Tsarskoye Selo, the Czar and 
 Czarina. The guards surrounding these two imperial residences 
 had been largely increased in the then state of affairs, and all 
 kinds of extra precautions taken. Where the underground earth 
 huts for the soldiers on guard formerly existed, neat little wooden 
 houses have been erected every half-verst and larger ones every 
 verst. These last are for larger detachments of soldiers. 
 
 I was quartered in Petersburg upon this occasion on the Vassili 
 Ostrof, or Basil Island of the Neva. It was from behind this 
 district that most of the factory hands came to join the 150,000 
 who marched to the Winter Palace. The streets in the neighbour- 
 hood of this house witnessed many of those scenes which marked 
 the uprising on "Vladimir's Day." I walked one day with my host 
 along the Neva bank of the island to the fortress of SS. Peter 
 and Paul, and he pointed out to me the guns upon the walls, which 
 were fired upon the occasion of the blessing of the Neva waters by
 
 I905] ST. PETERSBURG 413 
 
 the Czar. The fortress is nearly opposite the Winter Palace, and 
 the inquiry had left little doubt that the incident of the loaded 
 cannon which struck the imperial pavilion in which the Czar stood 
 was not accidental, I was anxious to understand exactly how the 
 guns were directed, but my friend said, " I can only explain verb- 
 ally. We must not be seen pointing." The remark made one 
 realize how careful it was necessary to be at that time not to draw 
 attention to or appear to be discussing recent events. Police and 
 officials were very suspicious just then. Vladimir's palace is situated 
 immediately across the Nicolai Bridge. It is a plain, dreary-looking 
 building. He had never left it since the fatal Sunday, and it was well 
 he did not, for it was closely watched. 
 
 At Petersburg I held two confirmations — one for adults, the 
 other for the young candidates. Our church, already beautiful, had 
 been enriched by a set of fine mosaics at the east end, as well as 
 some good stained glass. It was well filled at 1 1 a.m. on the Sunday, 
 and crowded at the confirmation. 
 
 When the sun sets down the Gulf towards Cronstadt, on a clear 
 night the effect is very beautiful ; the smoke rising from the city — 
 always a pure white in this clear atmosphere, nothing but wood 
 being burnt — has the appearance of a brilliantly pink canopy of 
 cloud, intense as Bengal lights. The dome of St. Isaac's Cathedral 
 (which is overlaid with beaten gold like the spire of the Admiralty 
 and other buildings) glows aloft a rich pink in harmony. Tram- 
 lines are laid over the frozen Neva during the winter, upon which 
 tramcars are run, forming a considerable relief to the crowded 
 bridges. 
 
 It may be remembered that a bomb exploded soon after " Red 
 Sunday " in the Hotel Bristol at Petersburg, killing a man who was 
 handling it, and who was supposed to be an Englishman. He had 
 a false passport, representing him as having a Scotch name, whereas 
 it was discovered that he was a German, named Naumann. One of 
 our factory people at Schliisselberg upon Lake Ladoga, young 
 McCullum, whose family I know, was staying next door at the 
 Hotel d'Angleterre. As his name resembled that upon Naumann's 
 passport, he was advised to clear out before the police came. Being 
 entirely innocent of any collusion with the German, he refused to do 
 so. Not having brought his passport with him, he could not be 
 identified for the moment, and was consequently arrested till our 
 Ambassador explained the circumstances.
 
 414 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1905 
 
 The Neva embankment is a beautiful and interesting rendezvous 
 on a fine winter afternoon, when the sun is shining upon the snow- 
 covered roadways and the ice-bound Neva. It is then that the 
 great world of Petersburg throngs that part of the embankment 
 stretching for some two miles in front of the Isaac Plain, the 
 Admiralty, the Winter Palace, and the Hermitage. And it is a 
 pageant worth seeing — a brilliant concourse of carriages, officers and 
 ofificials on horseback and on foot. It was a strange sight to see all 
 the wealth and splendour of this great capital promenading over 
 the very ground which a few weeks before ran red with the blood of 
 their fellow-citizens, swarming up and down as if the empire was at 
 peace. Some of the carriages contained wounded officers, bandaged 
 and bound, their crutches leaning by their side. Who would 
 suppose that their army had been in full retreat month after month 
 through an entire year without a single victory to record ; one fleet 
 destroyed and another going apparently to destruction also ? This 
 externally. Within, things, if possible, were still worse, the people 
 asking where the Government is, and what it is ; their Emperor 
 practically a prisoner in his own palace, and the Grand Dukes, who 
 are supposed to govern, in the same case. And yet these people, in 
 semi-Oriental grandeur, were chatting together and saluting one 
 another with courtly smiles, oblivious, apparently, of what the rest 
 of the world stood looking at aghast — 300,000 victorious Japanese 
 driving before them the shattered remnant of the Russian army ! 
 In spite of all this, against the threats of the nation, and the added 
 terror of revolution staring them in the face, they were talking of 
 mobilizing another 400,000 men to go and be slaughtered as other 
 hundreds of thousands have been ! 
 
 Napoleon in his hundred days' desperation was as nothing in 
 comparison. A truly wonderful people, and in a way to be looked 
 upon with admiration, at least I cannot but feel so. For endurance, 
 determination, and courage a Russian comes next to an EngUshman. 
 And they were so courteous and considerate in their bearing to us, 
 though they could but see behind Japan the power and prestige of 
 the British Empire, for the Russians are not a spiteful or malicious 
 people. If some other nation of Western Europe — I will not parti- 
 cularize — were at war with Japan, and we Japan's allies, our position 
 as residents in those countries would be impossible — we should be 
 hounded out of them. Russia was sore, of course, but she kept her 
 soreness to herself. To see a great and proud people, looked upon
 
 1905] "VLADIMIR'S DAY" 415 
 
 hitherto as almost invincible, going about holding up their heads 
 with all the world against them while the heart of the nation, beneath 
 all this apparent indifference, was crushed and overwhelmed, was a 
 sight worth coming so far to see. 
 
 The day after leaving Riga I had the following from a friend in 
 that city : — 
 
 "As the result of the conflict on Sunday in the woods behind the 
 factory where you dined, two thousand people tried the day after 
 you left to force their way over the pontoon bridge, but were re- 
 pulsed by the military and the Cossacks." 
 
 On my way to call upon the Archbishop of Petersburg I was 
 shown the bullet marks freely showered upon the buildings u[) and 
 down the Nevsky, though they had been painted out and jiuttied up, 
 for it is the manner of the Muscovite to hide as soon as possible 
 what he is conscious of having done amiss. The dead bodies of 
 "Vladimir's Day," which were not put under the ice of the Neva, were 
 carted away at night in wagons by hundreds into the country and 
 buried. No record was left of them. They were unknown and 
 purposely nameless. When relatives and friends went to make 
 inquiries of officials concerning their fate, they were told that no- 
 thing was known of them. We drove to the Nevsky Monastery, the 
 Archbishop's residence, in a motor. As we passed through the 
 ancient archways and by the side of the immense cloisters and 
 buildings swarming with monks, my friend said, " I do not suppose 
 that these venerable precincts ever resounded before to the snort of 
 a motor-car," and the monks certainly looked astonished. 
 
 On my way to the station, upon leaving Petersburg, the spot was 
 pointed out to me where Plehve was killed. He was turning a 
 corner on his way from the Baltic railway station when a bomb was 
 thrown from the upper window of a restaurant. It is an open 
 space of very wide dimensions, intersected by a canal, and the 
 houses in that district are far apail, the Warsaw railway station to 
 which I was driving being some distance away. Notwithstanding, 
 every window in the neighbourhood as well as in the station was 
 shattered by the concussion, so tremendous was the force of the 
 explosive used. Of Plehve himself there was little left. 
 
 The traffic upon the Petersburg-Cracow line, upon which I was 
 about to travel, had been entirely suspended. Like Jericho in its 
 siege, Warsaw had been strictly shut up ; none went out, and none 
 came in. Few people were travelling on this, as on the other lines
 
 4i6 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1905 
 
 I had traversed. Indeed, all through Russia I had never a fellow- 
 traveller in my compartment with me. However, traffic had been 
 restored, and I started on my journey of one thousand versts to the 
 capital of Russian Poland. 
 
 I woke in the morning to exactly what I anticipated, for there is 
 but one landscape in Russian travel— a dead level of snow, pine 
 forests, stretches of frozen water, wretched patches of brown hovels, 
 and grey crows. This for a thousand versts at a stretch is 
 monotonous. When I emerged from my " wagon-Ut " I came upon 
 the morning tea being manufactured in a recess in the centre of the 
 corridor carriage. The samovar was steaming, the menage well- 
 appointed, and very different from that of the dilapidated lavatory 
 on the Libau line. 
 
 Here I encountered a Russian doctor travelling from Petersburg 
 to Warsaw, with whom I fell into conversation. He had travelled 
 far, seen much, and taken good stock of it. He waxed eloquent 
 upon the war, the fleet, and the state of the country generally, re- 
 gretting that, whilst speaking French, German, Italian, and Spanish, 
 he had never mastered English. " Why," he asked, " do not the 
 English like Russia ? Is it not because they do not know us ? We 
 did not sympathize with the Boers during the South African War. 
 Germans, French, Swiss were all against England, but not Russia." 
 I told him it was because EngUshmen did not know Russians in 
 their own country ; that we who knew Russia knew how considerate 
 and friendly his countrymen were to the English residing in Russia, 
 and appreciated it; that whatever dislike existed was owing to 
 prejudice. " And why," he continued, " is England always harping 
 upon our wanting India? Russia knows very well that she could 
 not take India, even if she wanted to do so, nor does she wish to 
 cause England trouble upon her Indian frontier. It is a ghost 
 story and nothing more." 
 
 This is the invariable Russian opinion as to India. It is such 
 ideas as those propounded not long since by M. Botyanoff in the 
 Invalide Russe that create the misunderstanding between the two 
 nations, whereas such ideas are purely personal, put forward by 
 people of no official weight or position, and are in no way national. 
 The wild ideas, held by no sensible Russian, of a coalition against 
 England by massing Russian troops on the Afghan frontier, France 
 and Germany co-operating on the sea, exists only in M. Botyanoff's 
 head. But even such crazes do harm when misrepresented, as they
 
 »905l RUSSIA AND INDIA 4,7 
 
 were in England, as the policy advocated liy a paper of such im- 
 portance as the /our /ml de Si. Peter slntr;^. 
 
 If England, while taking care to be strong in India, would but 
 exorcise this frontier ghost, and not weakly exhibit her apprehension 
 of the self-raised evil spirit, we should hear no more about it. It is 
 this bogey upon which Russia trades, when she finds it convenient 
 to do so. It is known to be England's one sensitive point over 
 which, when occasion requires, Russia knows that she can shake her 
 sword of Damocles. Russians whose opinions are worth anything, 
 military, naval, diplomatic — serious Russians who think and also 
 know— will tell you that there is not and never was the slightest idea 
 of attempting to possess themselves of India. If such assurances 
 have no effect to convince, the reading of Popoffsky's Rival Pmvers 
 in Ccfitral Asia — a book almost unknown to English readers, but 
 full of profound facts and profounder lessons to Englishmen who 
 value their empire — can hardly fail to do so. We may not be over- 
 loved by the native races of India, but Popoffsky shows clearly 
 enough, even from a Russian point of view, that Russia is not only 
 loved less, but is dreaded in India with an overwhelming dread. 
 The offer of their services by the princes of India at the time of the 
 Penjdeh "incident," opened not only Popoffsky's but many other 
 Russian eyes. England, Japan, and Russia standing together would 
 secure the peace of the Eastern — England, America, and Germany 
 the peace of the Western world ; and yet by reason of these miser- 
 able jealousies and misunderstandings we are for ever alienating 
 those who might be, who ought to be, and in their wiser tempers 
 wish to be our good friends and trusty allies. 
 
 At a refreshment-room en route to Warsaw I came upon a bright, 
 pleasant young Finn from Helsingfors, on his way to the Archaeo- 
 logical Congress at Athens. I thought he was English, and saluted 
 him as such, possessing a face so different in type to the Slav, the 
 Tartar, and the Jew of these regions. He was evidently pleased at 
 the mistake, and still more pleased when I told him that there was 
 not, after all, much difference, and that the next best thing to an 
 Englishman was a Finn. " Das," he said, " ist wohl gesagt." 
 
 The Poles form admirable artistic studies. Every rich Pole wears 
 magnificent furs ; every poor one wears a long black sheepskin 
 reaching to the ground, and carries on his back the inevitable bag. 
 Their beards, their ringlets, their shuffling gait, the furtive look, and 
 downcast eyes mark unmistakably their nationality. Poland, never 
 2 E
 
 4i8 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1905 
 
 a restful country, was just then an angry hornet's nest. The railway 
 stations were, in consequence, strongly policed, the officials standing 
 about in long, brown coats and aigretted fur caps, armed with dirks 
 and revolvers. 
 
 The train from Petersburg lands the traveller at Praga, on the 
 north bank of the Vistula, Warsaw being reached by a fine iron 
 bridge some half-mile in length, the castle and fortress, towers and 
 spires of the city rising picturesquely on the south bank. At the 
 end of this bridge the spot was pointed out where, the evening 
 previous to my arrival, the life of Nolken, the Chief of Police, was 
 attempted. The pavement was torn up by the bomb, his carriage 
 shattered, and he himself (though still living) wounded in fifty 
 places. Had the carriage not been driving at a furious pace to 
 avoid an attack he must have been killed on the spot. The plot 
 was well laid. A bomb was thrown into the police-station at Praga, 
 killing several poUce in the building. The outrage was telephoned 
 at once to the head of the police in Warsaw, who, as had been 
 anticipated, hurried off at once to Praga ; and on the way the bomb 
 was thrown. Those implicated had warned the passers-by not to loiter, 
 but to clear out of the way. The spot chosen was at the bridge- 
 head, where steps lead to the river bank, down which the assassin 
 rushed. He was followed by one of the police escort in attendance 
 upon Nolken, and when pressed turned and shot his pursuer dead. 
 
 Agrarian risings and acts of violence were rife all round Warsaw. 
 Recently 1500 peasants who were marching, bent upon some raid, 
 in the neighbouring district of Kutnow, were attacked by the 
 soldiery, thirty being killed, and nearly one hundred wounded. 
 Murders at night were frequent in the streets of Warsaw, and people 
 did not leave their houses after dark unless compelled to do so. 
 
 I had a good deal of conversation with Captain Murray, our 
 Consul, about the attack made upon him by dragoons charging 
 along the streets. There was, it seems, no intention in the 
 occurrence ; the soldiers did not know that the Consul was in the 
 crowd, and an ample apology was made by the Government. In 
 patrolling the streets the cavalry go either in Indian file or in open 
 formation, like the five-spotted side of a die. This for safety, in 
 case — as was by no means infrequent — a bomb is thrown amongst 
 them. 
 
 A magnificent new Orthodox cathedral was almost completed at 
 Warsaw. The Poles, of course, hate the sight of it, being, in
 
 '905] A FUNERAL IN POLAND 419 
 
 their eyes, an added badge of servitude. Placards were found on 
 it thus worded, "This building to be let." They say that they 
 will blow it up, and it is quite possible that the threat will be carried 
 out. It was not needed, and is only a source of irritation to tlie 
 inhabitants. One sees Pobiedonostzeff behind it— that policy of 
 Russification and coercion which is driving the loyal Finns into 
 antagonistic disgust of Russian rule, and maddening the Poles into 
 a deeper and more abiding hatred. And yet every one seems afraid 
 of this ecclesiastical layman ; even the anarchists attach a sort of 
 sacredness to his person as Procurator of the Holy Synod, and 
 shrink, it is said, from killing him. 
 
 Upon a former visit to Russia, when Archbishop Palladius, of 
 Petersburg, invited me to a week of functions with the Orthodox 
 Church, to meet the four archbishops of the holy cities of Russia — 
 Moscow, Kieff, Kasan, and Irkutsk — and other bishops of the 
 empire, I was much struck with a scene enacted one day at the 
 opening of the Ecclesiastical Academy. The great hall was full 
 from end to end of State functionaries and ecclesiastical dignitaries, 
 archbishops, bishops, deans, archdeacons, archimandrites, with 
 Father John of Cronstadt, and other ecclesiastics. When all was 
 ready for the opening ceremony Pobiedonostzeff entered, and 
 immediately the whole multitude rose to their feet, except the 
 bishops. We kept our seats, the rest of the assembly standing 
 until the Procurator had passed to his chair. 
 
 A funeral in Poland — and there were many of them just then in 
 Warsaw — is a very dismal affair, beset with doleful sights and 
 sounds. As I sat writing, one passed my windows. It was 
 evidently that of an official — probably a case of assassination, or a 
 wounded officer from the seat of war — for it was followed by a 
 detachment of military with their band, the red cross vans and 
 officials bringing up the rear. When the band ceased the followers 
 set up a dreary wail, hopeless as the Polish cause itself. The coffin 
 was draped with heavy black cloth, covering the entire hearse, and 
 falling to the ground. The whole thing was so intensely melancholy 
 that one longed to throw some Western Christian life and brightness 
 into the proceedings. 
 
 A statue of Copernicus — who was born hard by at Thorn — 
 stands in an open space off the Aleja Ujardowsky, one of the 
 principal thoroughfares of Warsaw. That he studied the heavens, 
 it is well said, is not to be wondered at, since there is nothing what- 
 ever in the region of his birth to turn the human gaze earthwards.
 
 420 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1905 
 
 The hopes of peace which Sir Charles Hardinge (our Ambassador) 
 told me at Petersburg he thought was in sight were soon overclouded 
 again, and war to the bitter end seemed Russia's determination. 
 The rich merchants and wealthy landowners in Poland were more 
 bitter than ever against the Government. They said that the 
 attitude of the peasant and working-classes was entirely owing to 
 Government favouring them at their expense ; that ever since 
 Alexander II freed the serfs, forty years ago, they have been 
 encouraged to look upon the land as their rightful property, and 
 have always sought opportunity to possess themselves of it. That 
 opportunity was then before them, and they were determined to take 
 by violence what they have hitherto been unable to obtain in any 
 other way. They further asserted that it was more difficult than ever 
 to obtain redress at law from the lower classes ; that the Government 
 had always been afraid of them, and done its best to favour and 
 encourage the peasantry against the upper classes. This may be 
 so, for the Government does not fear the comparatively few 
 capitalists in Poland, their fear lying in the direction of the over- 
 whelmingly large population of artisans and peasants. If these 
 last scrambled for and possessed themselves of the wealth of the 
 propertied classes, two ends would be gained : they would be — so 
 far as it is possible to satisfy Poles — contented, and the dangerous 
 political element in the country obliterated. It was a new idea to 
 me ; but since there seemed a very general consensus of opinion in 
 this direction, and I heard it strongly expressed, I concluded that 
 there must be some ground for the assertion. 
 
 Warsaw is a fine city of busy streets, handsome buildings, and 
 well-laid-out parks, in one of which is the pretty little palace of 
 Poniatowski. Lodz — the Manchester of Poland- — had been, if 
 possible, a worse centre of lawlessness and anarchy than Warsaw. 
 Assassination, strikes, destruction of machinery and factories had 
 been, and still were, rampant in that district. There and at Marki, 
 another manufacturing town, some twelve miles distant, we have a 
 good many English, and their position through these continuous 
 troubles had been most precarious. It was difficult for them to 
 travel to Warsaw to attend the confirmation which I held. There 
 seemed a very general opinion that more bloodshed and trouble was 
 coming, and that the second outbreak would be worse than the first. 
 Indeed, as an old resident, who had lived nearly all his life in 
 Russia, said to me when I took leave of him, " It is no time for 
 travelling in Russia, and the sooner you are out of it the better."
 
 1905] ALEXANDROWO 421 
 
 Under these circumstances, and having done what I had to do in 
 the several centres of my church work, I was not altogether sorry to 
 say good-bye to my many good and hospitable friends who had 
 taken such kindly care of me in these unhappy times, and to book 
 my place for the frontier station of Alexandrowo. 
 
 Arrived there, I found it far more closely guarded even than 
 Wirballen, by which I had entered Russia, on the main route from 
 Berlin to Petersburg. The station was beset with officials armed 
 with fixed bayonets, sabres, and revolvers to overawe the inhabitants 
 of that volcanic frontier line. They were everywhere : stationed 
 along the platform, posted on either side of the trains, and watching 
 up and down the railway towards Russia and towards Germany. 
 The newspapers were reporting that the very flooring of the carriages 
 was being removed here and there in search of arms and explo- 
 sives. That might be, and very likely was, the case ; for Russia's one 
 fear in this part of her empire is that the Poles mean to arm and 
 offer armed resistance. As each passenger took his seat in the train 
 for the frontier he had his passport handed to him — not on the plat- 
 form, lest he should effect an exchange with some other passenger, 
 but in the train, into which we were all locked. Before every 
 carriage stood an armed official, to see that no attempt was made 
 to leave the train or exchange a passport. One man who hung back 
 in conversation with an apparent friend was given to understand by 
 an acted threat, in somewhat abrupt fashion, that if he did not get 
 in at once without external assistance, it would be given him at the 
 point of the bayonet. Thus locked, the train was guarded along the 
 footboards on either side by officials till it had cleared the Russian 
 sentries and the Russian Empire. This takes place at a distance of 
 about an English mile from Alexandrowo. At that point a brilliantly- 
 lighted guard-house is passed, and then almost immediately the 
 three-fold line of sentries, and we passed slowly and silently out of the 
 dominions of the Czar of All the Russias. The Kaiser's boundary 
 posts are soon reached, and then within a few hundred yards 
 Oslotchin, the first station in Germany. 
 
 Here the German officials, who are evidently in close co-operation 
 with the Russians in the matter of arms and explosives, looked us 
 through again, though how, guarded as were, we could have 
 possessed ourselves in that short distance from one frontier to the 
 other with anything revolutionary it was difficult to see. The official 
 who searched my carriage, of which I was the sole occupant— as
 
 422 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1905 
 
 indeed I was through all the thousands of versts upon my Russian 
 and Polish journeys ; no one was travelling, no one dare travel, but 
 those compelled to do so — discovered in one corner of it my 
 pastoral staff, the circular boss of which — suggestive of a bomb — 
 was wrapped in leather. Holding it at a judicious distance, he 
 demanded savagely, "Was ist das?" Having reassured and satis- 
 fied him that it was a peaceful weapon, he retired, evidently relieved, 
 and for an East Prussian official — proverbially defiant and fierce — 
 was respectfully polite, wishing me " Gut nacht." 
 
 What happened after that I do not know, for the next thing I was 
 conscious of was that we had done over six hundred versts from the 
 Polish frontier during the night, and were running through the 
 suburbs of Berlin once more, and entering the Friedrichstrasse 
 Bahnhof of the German capital. 
 
 On Monday, May 8th of this year, I crossed to Antwerp and con- 
 ferred with the chaplain upon the subject of the new church. 
 Thence to Brussels for our annual Conference, which was well 
 arranged and well attended. During its session I was the guest of 
 Sir Constantine and Lady Phipps, who very kindly received the 
 members. I then visited Wiesbaden, Heidelberg, Freiburg, Territet, 
 Lausanne, Geneva, Paris, and Boulogne for confirmation and other 
 work, nothing very particular occurring worth record upon that well- 
 beaten track. 
 
 My autumn visitation to the North German, Scandinavian, and 
 Dutch chaplaincies was also over somewhat familiar ground, which 
 I have traversed and described under too many circumstances to need 
 further detail. In Sweden I stayed with hospitable and kind friends 
 for the work I had to do in that part of Scandinavia. A description 
 of the Swedish house in which I stayed I venture to give in detail, 
 since few English people know what a delightful abode a Scandi- 
 navian country house is in summer, or more particularly in the soft, 
 still, mellow autumn season of the year. 
 
 I have known Sweden since 1859, and have stayed in several 
 country houses in that part of Europe — in a very beautiful one, 
 some seventy miles from Stockholm, where our King, when Prince 
 of Wales, shot his first Swedish elks ; in another upon Lake Wenem; 
 in another near Udervalla, towards the Norwegian frontier ; and, in 
 September of this year, in yet another, upon the beautiful lake 
 of Jonsared. 
 
 This particular country house stands in well-timbered grounds.
 
 1905] A SWEDISH COUNTRY HOUSE 423 
 
 about a quarter of a mile from the lake, the lower end of which 
 is bounded by rocky, wooded heights of most picturescjue formation. 
 The house itself, like most country houses in Sweden, is built of 
 wood, decorated with spoils of the chase— elk heads, deer horns, 
 stuffed eagles, buzzards, etc. — and very much up to date in its 
 arrangements, furnishing, and electric light. The estate upon which 
 it stands consists of several thousand acres, mostly woodland, about 
 three hundred acres being cultivable land and forming the home 
 farm. In front of the house lies a park-like piece of ground, 
 bounded by avenues of trees, which run down to and open up a fine 
 view of the lake, the further shores of which stretch away northward 
 in dense forest. A fountain, in its large basin, stands in the centre 
 of the view, greatly adding to the effect of this part of the grounds. 
 A small stream, making a waterfall, runs by the kitchen gardens into 
 the lake, and forms a quiet inlet for the water-fowl. Behind and on 
 either side of the house lie the gardens, brilliant at this season with 
 flowers such as an English garden produces. 
 
 The chief feature of the place is the farm and farm-buildings, 
 which are unusually extensive, for all must be put under cover in 
 such a northern winter as Sweden experiences. Enormous barns 
 and outbuildings for storing the harvest — hay and other farm-pro- 
 duce — stand round a courtyard. As the loaded wagons come in from 
 the harvest-field — then in full swing — the loads are lifted off them 
 by an operation I had never seen before. A wooden rack is laid at 
 the bottom of each empty wagon furnished with chains, which hang 
 over the wagon's sides. Upon this rack the corn is loaded in the 
 field and brought into the barn, the chains clasping the load from 
 the rack round the top. A heavy hooked chain is let down from a 
 running tramway which traverses aloft the entire length of the barn. 
 At a given signal the load is raised from the wagon by a jack 
 attached to the running tramway above, swung up aloft, run along 
 to the point required for storing, and deposited in its place. A 
 fresh rack and chains are then dropped into the emptied wagon, 
 which is driven back to the harvest-field, and the process is repeated. 
 Correspondingly large buildings for housing about two hundred 
 cows, which are kept in perfect cleanliness and order, form another 
 section of the farm premises. A dairy worked by steam, upon the 
 Danish principle, flanks the cow-halls— for they cannot be called 
 sheds— requiring a large staff of experienced hands to keep the 
 machinery and various processes in constant work and order. The
 
 424 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL [1905 
 
 crofter system obtains upon the estate. Some eight or ten crofters' 
 cottages are scattered here and there upon small plots of a few 
 acres each. The crofters are at the call of the landlord when 
 required, being allowed a day or two in each week to themselves 
 according to the season, extra work being extra paid. They keep 
 bees, two or three cows and pigs, grow their own garden produce, 
 and seem contented and well to do. 
 
 The lake holds fish of many kinds ; in the river running into and 
 out of it are trout and salmon of large size. My host was en- 
 deavouring to attract wild duck to stay and breed upon his shore of 
 the lake by planting wild rice from Winnipeg. This the duck 
 delight in, and feed upon greedily. If able to grow it to any extent, 
 there can be no doubt that its attractive power in drawing and keep- 
 ing wild fowl of all kinds will be very great. Here I spent several 
 interesting days, learning much of the country life around, and 
 passing most pleasant evenings, with games and music, under the 
 hospitable roof of my genial host and hostess and their kind and 
 delightful family. 
 
 It was supposed that the difficulties between Norway and Sweden 
 would be adjusted without serious difficulty, though the feeling, no 
 doubt, was bitter in Sweden towards the Norwegians, who seem to 
 have made the case of the Consuls a mere pretext for separation 
 without adequate cause or reasonable grievance. The old King, 
 whom I saw in Gothenburg, looked aged and sad, and felt the 
 action of Norway very keenly. It was thought that the Norwegians 
 should have allowed him to end his days as King of the united 
 countries, but that they thought it politic to strike before a younger 
 and, perhaps, a firmer hand wielded the sceptre. The breaking of 
 the weaker part of the kingdom with the stronger resembles the 
 action of an inferior partner dissolving partnership with a pros- 
 perous firm. " Sweden will suffer to some extent by the separation, 
 but Norway will suffer more," was the prevalently expressed opinion. 
 
 The day after I left Prince William of Sweden was arriving for 
 the autumnal elk hunt. Only seven elks are allowed to be shot on 
 the estate each year, and, of course, there were great preparations in 
 progress, and much anxiety to give the Prince a good day or two's 
 sport. I wish I could have stayed to see it, but it was impossible. 
 Work awaited me in Germany, Holland, and North France, and 
 I had to go and do it.
 
 INDEX 
 
 A'Court, Colonel, 304 
 
 Aachen, 91, 386 
 
 About, Edmond, 107 
 
 Adderly, Sir K. , 72 
 
 Addington, Lord, 144 
 
 Addison, Mrs., 406 
 
 Adler, Mr., 86, 120 
 
 .(^igishhorn, 151 
 
 Africa, South, Boer government in, 
 
 10 ; after Majul)a Hill, 98 
 Airolo, 224 
 
 Aix-la-Chapelle, 385-6 
 Albert Victor, Prince, 72, 77, 209, 276, 
 
 277, 315 
 Alexander I, Emperor of Russia, 386 
 Alexander II, Emperor of Russia, 
 
 assassination of, 43-4 ; cathedral 
 
 commemorating, 338-40 
 Alexander III, Emperor of Russia, 36, 
 
 38, 40, 71, 72, 75, 77-9, 95, 140, 
 
 146, 209, 218 
 Alexander Nevski, 141 ; visit to tomb 
 
 of, 252-3 
 Alexandra, Queen — 
 
 Copenhagen, visits to (1887), 70-4; 
 {1896), 276; (1902), 367-9 
 
 otherwise mentioned, 76, 79, 209, 
 
 231, 315. 333 **ol^ 
 Alexandrowitch, 144 
 Alexandrowo, 124, 234, 421 
 Alice, Princess, 8, 41, 114, 309-10 
 Alteburg, 48 
 Altglashutte, 60 
 Altona, 85 
 
 Ambassadors, pay and pension of, 317 
 American Thanksgiving Day, 25-6, 
 
 121, 384 
 Amsterdam — 
 
 Building foundation of, 31 
 
 English chapel at, 48 
 
 Jews confirmed at, 120 
 
 Pictures at, 181, 2S7-8 
 
 State church in, 28S 
 
 Visits to, 86, 288, 321, 373 
 Andronikoff, Prince, 250-4, 259 
 Angleland, 69, 203 
 
 Anglesey, Lord, 164. 
 
 Anglo-Russian Literary Society, 222 
 
 Angst, Mr., 332 
 
 AnsUar, 85 
 
 Antwerp, 4, 114, 169, 219, 2S4, 323, 
 
 335-6 
 Ameiger^ Dresden, 103 
 Apponyi, Count, 350, 351 
 Arbuthnot, Mrs., 117 
 Arcachon, 105-8, 175, 212, 284, 380 
 Archangel, 38 
 Arendal, 162-3 
 Arenenburg, 301 
 Argcles, 176-7, 213-14, 218, 283 
 Armstrong, of Newcastle, 325 
 Army, English, Btilow's compliment to, 
 
 337-8 
 Army system in Germany, 18-19 
 Arnheim, 94 
 Artaunum, 232 
 Aschenljurg, 370 
 Augusta, Empress of Germany — 
 
 Audiences with, 13-14, 115-16 
 
 Death of, 149 
 
 Letter from, 123 
 
 Statue of, 307-8 
 
 otherwise mentioned, 25, 56, 57-8, 
 86, 97, 100 
 Aussig, 353 
 Australian wool, combing of, at Croix, 
 
 89 
 Austria, travelling in, 349 
 Austria, Empress of, 290 ; assassination 
 
 of, 334-5 ; statue of, 362 
 Austrian Tyrol, 179-80, 271 
 Ava, Lorii, 318 
 Avranches, 55 
 
 Baarn, 181-2, 184 
 
 Baden, 13, 29-30, 92, 11 5- 17. >7«i 
 
 199, 265-6, 301-2 
 Baden, Louisa Grand Duchess of, 
 
 149-50, 217, 265-6, 289, 301-2, 383 
 Baer, quoted, 139 
 Baikal, Lake, 344, 345 
 Baker, Barnet, 401-2 
 
 425
 
 426 
 
 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL 
 
 Baku, 45, 130, 146 
 
 Balaclava charge, valley of, 145, 226-7 
 
 Baltic, frozen, 404-6 
 
 Baltic provinces of Russia, visit to, 95 
 
 Bariatinsky, Prince, 343 
 
 Baring-Gould, Mr., 7 
 
 Baron, Sir Henry, 92 
 
 Barrington, Dowager Lady, 3 
 
 Barry, Bishop, 307 
 
 Bartlett, Mr., 330 
 
 Basil Cathedral, Stanley's description 
 
 of, gttoted, 244 
 Basle, 20 
 
 Basques, the, 106, 108 
 Batoum, 146 
 
 Battenberg, Prince Henry of, 112 
 Bayonne, 106, 109, 212, 283 
 Bazaine, 23 
 Bazeilles, 357-8 
 Beaconsfield, Earl of, 299 
 Beam, kingdom of, 109 
 Beauchamp, Dowager Countess of, 293 
 Bedford, Bishop of, 214-15 
 Bedford, Duchess of, 25 
 Beidar, 145 
 Belgium — 
 
 Feeling as to South African War, 323 
 
 Visits to, 56, 284, 357-61 
 Belgium, King of, 1 1 
 Belinke, Herr, 371 
 Bellevue, Chateau, 359, 360 
 Benedetti, Ambassador, 19 
 Benson, Mr. Christopher, 20, 91, 185 
 Bentheim, 235 
 Berchtesgarten, 271 
 Beresford, Col., 340 
 Beresina, 240 
 Bergen, 167, 365 
 Berlin — 
 
 American Thanksgiving Dinner at, 
 25-6 
 
 Cabs in, 292 
 
 Column of Victory at, 229-30. 
 
 English Church at, 24-7 
 
 Institution for Governesses at, 27, 
 261-3 
 
 Scenery from, to Konigsberg, 32-3 
 
 Visits to, 9-10, 32, 86-8, 96-103, 
 121, 147, 216, 229-30, 261-3, 
 291-3, 324-5, 337-8, 389-90 
 Berlin Endowment Fund, 325 
 Berne, 20-1, 61, 117, 225, 334 
 Bernstorf, Count, 9, 87 
 Bernstorf, Countess, 100 
 Bernstorf Castle, 276, 317 
 Besant, Mr., 345 
 Bessomond, Lieut., 54 
 Bezant, Mr., 343 
 Beziers, 281 
 
 Biarritz, 107-8, 178, 212-13, 283, 323 
 Bible, Russian translation of, 41 
 Bidassoa, River, 108, 109 
 Biebrich, 20 
 Bilderlingshof, 404-5 
 Bingen, National War Monument op- 
 posite, 13, 19-20 
 Binns, Mr., 28 
 Birds :— 
 
 Argeles, rare stuffed birds in, 214 
 
 Crested larks, 297 
 
 Denmark, starlings in, 156 
 
 Golden orioles, 184, 336 
 
 Owls, habits of, 333 
 
 Russian, 405 
 
 Scandinavian, 163 
 
 Storks, 171, 184 
 
 Swallows, habits of, 333 
 
 Swedish, 319 
 
 White-throated diver, 370 
 Birkbeck, Mr., 251, 252 
 Bishopric, Continental. See Conti- 
 nental Bishopric. 
 Bishops, portraits of, at Riga, 47 
 Bismarck, 32, 320, 347, 356, 358-9, 
 
 373 
 Blackwood, Lord and Lady Terence, 
 
 318 
 Blanc, Mont, night on, 21-2 
 Blessig, Mr., 338 
 Block, 348 
 
 Blomfield, Sir Arthur, 36, 70, 72, 75 
 Boas, Mr., 141-2 
 
 Boden, Baron and Baroness von, 217 
 Bodmann, Baron von, 284 
 Boissevains family, visits to, 181-3, 
 
 321. 373-5 
 Bolton, Lanes., 128 
 Bonaparte, Prince Jerome, ill, 279 
 Bonaparte, Napoleon. See Napoleon 
 Bonham, Lady, 185 
 Boniface, Bishop, 8-9 
 Bonn, 30, 93, 149, 284 
 Bordeaux, 105, 179, 323, 379-80 
 Borghese, Princess, 330 
 Borki, 95, 132 
 
 Bornholdt, Mr., visit to, 197, 327-8 
 Borodino, 127-8, 241 
 Bosworth, Mr., visit to, 354-6 
 Botsabelo, 99, lOo 
 Botyanoff, M., 416 
 Botzen, 180 
 Bouillon, 305 
 Boulogne, i, 12, 52-3, 89-90, ill, 
 
 152-3, 231, 278, 305-6 
 Bourbaki's Swiss march, 22-3 
 Boys, Admiral, 271 
 Brandenberg, Countess of, 13 
 Brassey, Lord and Lady, 169
 
 INDEX 
 
 of 
 
 to 
 
 Bratland, 364 
 
 Breifond, 364 
 
 Bremontier, 106 
 
 BrennerPass, 180, 279-So 
 
 Brest-Litewski, 238, 240 
 
 Breuer Glacier, 365 
 
 British Columbia, 299-300 
 
 Brittany, visits to, 53-5, 153-4, 215, 
 
 ^ 285, 331, 378 
 
 Brock, 182 
 
 Brook, C, "This Church and Realm," 
 
 cited, 309 
 I^ruges, 3, II, 52, 91, 228 
 Brussels — 
 British Institution at, 50 
 Galleries in, 211-12, 385 
 Public buildings in, 51-2 
 Visits to, described, 3-4, 11, 50-2, 
 91, 148, 149, 228-9, 284, 291^ 
 „ 304, 323, 357, 381,422 
 Buda-Pesth— 
 
 Description of, 349-52 
 Millennium festival at, 266-70 
 Bulgaria, the Princes Alexander 
 
 (father and son), 58-60 
 Billow, Count, compliment paid 
 
 English army by, 337-8 
 Burdett-Coutts, Baroness, 142 
 Burgoyne, Sir John, 6 
 Burke, Mr., 380 
 Burrier, 172, 181 
 
 Cabaleros, Mt, 
 Caen, 172-3 
 Calais, 90-1, 
 
 290-1, 323 
 Calico factories, Russian, 144-5 
 Cambridge, Duke of, 92 
 Campbell Tile Company, 71 
 Canute, King, 70 
 Cape Colony, Astronomer Royal of, 
 
 265 
 Cape to Cairo Railway, 304 
 Capetown cathedral, 85 
 Carcassonne, 281-2 
 Carinthia, 20 
 
 Carlsruhe, 149-50, 217, 2S4-5 
 Carnot, President, 281 
 Carr, Mr., 261 
 Casan, 204 
 
 Cassel, 88, 89, gi-2, 356-7 
 Cattegat, the, 80, 202, 204 
 Caterham, 335 
 
 Catherine II, Empress of Russia, 132 
 Caux, 218 
 
 Cavendish, Lady Edward, 324 
 Cazalet family, 245, 343, 390 
 Cecil, Lord Hugh and Lady Maud, 13 
 Cette, 281 
 
 427 
 
 , 213 
 III, 169, 218, 278, 
 
 Cetywayo, interview with, 9S-9 
 
 Ch.-imbcrlain, Mr., 155 
 
 Chambers, Mr., 288 
 
 Channel Islands, 154 
 
 Chantilly, 12 13, 90, 179, 306, 391 
 
 Chaplin, Mr. and Mrs., 277, 371, 373 
 
 Chapman, Archdeacon, 178 
 
 Charlemont, Lady, 231 
 
 Charles II of England, 287 
 
 Charles XV of Sweden, 76 
 
 Chateau d'Oex, 310-11, 362 
 
 Cherbourg, Admiral of, 305 
 
 Chester, 223 
 
 Chillon, 148 
 
 China, Russian loan to, 242 
 
 Chisholm, Mr., 302 
 
 Chitral Campaign, 293 
 
 Christian, Princess, 25, 27 
 
 Christiania, 71, 158-60, 271-3, 365-7 
 
 Christiansand, 272 
 
 Church, English, influence of, on the 
 
 Continent, 366 
 Clark, Mr., 38 
 Clarke, Dr., quoted, 139 
 Clarens, 290 
 Clery, Countess, 108 
 Cleves, 93 
 Coard, Miss, 344 
 Coblentz, 56-8, 149, 169, 307-8 
 Coburg, 296-7 
 Codex Akxandrinus, 141 
 Codex Sinaitiats, 141, 142 
 Codex Faticanus, 141 
 Combes, 89 
 Compiegne, 3 
 
 Compton, Lord William, 38 
 Comtesse de France, wreck of, 1 10 
 Condc, Barons of, 306 
 Conferences, annual, of chaplains, 120, 
 
 152, 169, 177, 200, 216, 231, 266, 
 
 284, 291-2, 307, 330, 335-6, 338, 
 
 381, 383, 391,422 
 Connaught, Duke of, i 
 Connor, Mr., 357 
 Constance, 300-1 
 Continental Bishopric Scheme, 7-14, 
 
 i!2, 123, 148, 153, 185, 186, 218, 
 
 279. 283, 362 
 Cooke, Sir Francis, 71 
 Copenhagen — 
 
 " Family gathering " at, 73-80 
 Journey to, 69-70 
 
 Museums of, 156-8 
 
 Visits to, descrilied, 70-3, 120, 147, 
 208-10, 275-7, 314-17, 367-70 
 Copernicus, statue of, 419 
 Corbet, Mr., 83 
 Corelli, Marie, quoted, 3S0 
 Corsica, 308
 
 428 
 
 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL 
 
 Corsoe, 70 
 
 Cossacks, hatred of Russians by, 410 
 
 Courland, 195, 260-1, 410-11 
 
 Cowley, Lord, 13 
 
 Cox, quoted, 139 
 
 Craster family, 293 
 
 Crimea, 145-^, 344 
 
 Croix, 89, 278 
 
 Cromwell, Oliver, 148 
 
 Cronstadt, 143, 325 
 
 Cronstadt, Father John of, 143, 254-8 
 
 Crothers, Mr., 89 
 
 Cumberland, Duke of, 86 
 
 Cunningham-Greene, Mr., 92 
 
 Curran, Canon, 307 
 
 Czarevna, 276 
 
 Dagmar, Dowager Empress, 412 
 
 Dalen Canal, 273 
 
 Dantzig, 325, 393-6 
 
 Danube, 67, 301 
 
 Dariel Pass, 146 
 
 Darmstadt, 7-8, 58-60, 114, 308-10 
 
 Darmstadt, Grand Duke of. See 
 
 Hesse-Darmstadt. 
 D'Aumale, Due, 12 
 Davos, 172, 332-4 
 Dawson, Sir Douglas, 330 
 De Gez, Baronne, 214 
 De Raggs, Baronne, 196 
 '"Dear me I" origin of expression, 
 
 223-4 
 Decay of Home Life in England, quoted, 
 
 380 
 Delhi, Durbar at, 227 
 Denmark — 
 
 Boundary of (1869), 320 
 Journey to, 155 
 Route to, novel, 202 
 Visits to (1887), 70-80; 
 155-8; (1S96), 275-7; 
 310-17; (1902), 367-70. 
 Denmark, Crown Prince of, 71 
 
 78-9 
 Denmark, Crown Princess of, 71, 72, 
 
 76 
 Denmark, King and Queen of, 71-4. 
 
 78-9, 367-8 
 Deutsch-Avricourt, new frontier at, 6 
 Dickson, Baron Oscar, 206 
 Dieppe, 13, 49, 173, 306 
 Dinan, 54-5, 153, 285 
 Dinard, 153-4, 215 
 
 Dixon, Mr. Axel, I158 ; visit to, 206-8 
 Djursholm, 318 
 Dobson, Mr. and Mrs., 142-3, 261, 
 
 323, 379 
 Dollinger, Dr., 63-4 
 Donaueschingen, 301 
 
 (1890), 
 (1899), 
 
 72, 
 
 Doncher>-, 358 
 
 D'Orleans, Due, 12 
 
 Dormy, Claude, 12 
 
 Doulton, Messrs., 71 
 
 Drage, Mr., 284 
 
 Dresden, 9, 28-9, 88, 103-4, 121, 168, 
 
 187-9, 216, 263, 293-5, 329. 353-4. 
 
 390-1 
 Drobak, 162 
 
 Drummond, Sir Victor, 62, 223, 300 
 Du Chaillu, 157 
 Dufferin, Lord and Lady, 164-5, 200-1, 
 
 318 
 Dtinaborg, 46, 326 
 Dundas, Mr., 215 
 Dundas, Consul -General and Mrs. 
 
 (Lord and Lady Melville), 366 
 Dunkirk, 88-9, 304-5 
 Dunmore, Lord, 340 
 Diisseldorf, 302, 312, 386 
 Dwina River, 46-7 
 Dwinsk, 326, 328 
 
 Earee, Mr., 28 
 
 Edam, 1S2-3 
 
 Edinburgh, Duke of. See Saxe-Coburg 
 
 and Gotha 
 Edinburgh Review, quoted, 85 
 Edward VII, King, 22, 50, 70-5, 77, 
 
 78, 206, 217, 276, 324, 330, 350 
 Edwards, Mr., 293 
 Egerton, Mr., 179 
 Eggersund, 163 
 
 Ehrenbreitstein, Governor of, 217 
 Eisendecke, Admiral, 284-5 
 Elbe, wreck of, 219 
 Elfborg, Castle of, 80 
 Elibank, Lord and Lady, 187, 211-12 
 Ellis, Dr., 189, 348 
 Elsinore, So 
 Ems, 19, 185 
 Englefield, Admiral, 2 
 English chaplaincies, appreciation of, 
 
 viii-x ; required 32, 42 
 English national character, French 
 
 tribute to, 354 
 Eric XIV of Sweden, 207 
 Erica lusitanica, 107 
 Ericson, Swedish engineer, 205 
 Esbjerg, 202 
 
 Espenschied, Heinrich, 57 
 Esterhazy, Count, 268 
 Eugenie, Empress, flight of, from the 
 
 Tuileries, 5-6, 29-30, 116-17; at 
 
 Biarritz, 107-8 
 Eutin, 370-1 
 Evans, Dr., 5-6 
 Eydkuhnen, 33, 197-8, 396, 397
 
 INDEX 
 
 429 
 
 Fairbairn, Lady, 283 
 
 Fane, Sir Edmund and Lady, visit to, 
 
 314-17 
 Fanshawe family, 126, 1 89 
 Farenheit, 394 
 Faulkners, 89, 378 
 Feldkirch, 62 
 Feodora, Princess, 389 
 Ffolkers, Mr., 366 
 " Field of the Cloth of Gold,'" 305 
 Fiesch, 151 
 Figaro, quoted, 354 
 Finland and Helsingfors, Archbishop 
 
 Antonio of, 253-4 
 Finster, Aarhorn, 151 
 Flekkefiord, 163 
 Floeing, 361 
 Fluellen, 224 
 
 Folgerfonder glacier, 165, 364 
 Font Arabia, 380-1 
 Forbes, cited, 358, 359, 360 
 Ford, Mr., 276 
 Foster, Mrs., 214 
 Francis I of France, 109 
 Franco-Austrian \Var( 1859), district of, 
 
 223 
 Franco-German frontier incident, 85 
 Franco-German War — 
 
 Anecdotes of, 30, 111-12 
 
 Battlefields of, 382 
 
 "Buss und bet Tag" in Germany, 
 
 351 
 Declaration of, 19 
 Dutch neutrality, 94 
 Memorials of, 320-1 
 Monument, national, of, in Germany, 
 
 19-20 
 Paris, effects in, 2-3 
 Frankfurt, 8, 91, 1S6, 231, 294, 329 
 Fredensborg, 78-9, 275 
 Frederica of Hanover, Princess, 213 
 Fredericia, 69, 210, 213-14 
 Frederick, Emperor of Germany — 
 Audience with, 26-7 
 Death of, 149-50 
 Last illness of, 28, S6-7, 119, 223 
 Memorial service to, 120 
 Tomb of, 95, 101-3 
 otherwise mentioned, 91-2, 169-70, 
 301, 302 
 Frederick, Empress, of Germany — 
 Audiences with, 9-10, 26-8, 32, 118- 
 
 20, 147, 170, 261, 262 
 Church commemorating silver wedd- 
 ing of, 24-7 
 Death of, 335 
 
 otherwise mentioned, 94, 95, 9^-7. 
 103, 198, 217, 231 
 Frederick the Great, 100 
 
 Fredericksborg Castle, 275 
 
 Fredericksruhe, 373 
 
 Freiburg, 27, 117, 171 -2, 109-200,265 
 
 288-90,312,331.383 
 Frere, Sir Bartle, 265 
 Friedrich, Dr., 64 
 Friedrichshaven, 202, 203 
 Frostbite, remedy for, 216 
 Fry, Mr., 354 
 Funen, Island of, 69-70 
 Furca Pass, 151, 384 
 Furnes, 304 
 Furze, Mr. (r.a.), 333 
 
 Gala-troika, 133 
 
 Gale, Mr., 161 
 
 Gale, furious (1S88), 90-1 
 
 Gapon, Father, 409 
 
 Gatchina, 35, 190 
 
 Geneva, 22-3, 93, 117, 200, 226-7, 
 
 279. 334-5 
 Geok, Tepe, 329 
 George, Grand Duke, 76 
 Germany — 
 
 Army system in, 1S-19 
 
 Cattle-breeding in, 199 
 
 Danish War (1804), 202 
 
 English relations with. 2SS-0 
 
 Lutheranism and Calvinism in, 325 
 
 National character, 347-S 
 
 Romanists in, 307 
 
 Russian boundary of, 33 
 
 South African War, feeling as to, 
 
 324 
 
 War monuments in, 19-20, 355, 356 
 
 ZoUverein, 85 
 Gernsbach, 199 
 Ghent, 3, 52, 14S, 303-4 
 Gibson, Dr., 307, 343 
 Giers, M., 191 
 Gifford, Lord, 277 
 Gilderdale, Mr., 9, 28-9, 187 
 Gill, Mr., 265 
 Girls' Friendly Society, continental 
 
 branch of, 212 
 Gironde River, 105, 106 
 Gladstone, W. E., 98, 213, 265, 365 
 Giaire, 361 
 
 Glucksburg, Princes of, 72 
 Gneist, 26 
 Godesberg, 3S6-7 
 Godet, Prof., 218 
 Goethe, 122, 356 
 Golden orioles, 336 
 Gorky. Maxim, interview with, 406-IO 
 Goschen, Mrs., 9 
 Goschen, Sir Edward, 156, 367, 368, 
 
 369 
 Goschenen, 150-1, 224
 
 43° 
 
 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL 
 
 Gossensass, 280 
 
 Goteborg, 71, 203 
 
 Gotha, 88, 217, 219-23, 230-1, 295-6, 
 
 329. 391 
 Gotha River, scenery of, 204-5 
 Gothard, climbing of, on the Italian 
 
 side, 224 
 Gothenburg, 80-1, 317 
 Gottland, Bishop of, 206 
 Gough, Lord and Lady, 205, 325, 354, 
 
 390 
 Gran Nana, 267 
 Grant, Mr., 126 
 Grattan, Consul-General, 4 
 Great Belt, 70 
 Greece, King and Queen of, 72, 74, 
 
 76, 78, 79 
 Greene, Sir Cunningham, 21, 391 
 Grensmuhler, 370 
 Grierson, Colonel, 292 
 Grimsel Pass, 151-2 
 Grindelwald, 23, 93 
 Gripsholm Castle, 207 
 Groebel, Prof., 384 
 Grove, Mr., 96 
 Gudden, Dr., 62 
 Gudvangen, 166 
 Gustafberg, 204 
 Gustavstein, 274 
 Guttannen, 152 
 
 Hacke, Countess, 56, 57, 149 
 
 Haggard, Rider, 99, 287 
 
 Hague, the, n, 93, 121, 286-7, 388-9 
 
 Halleway, cited, 139 
 
 Halmstadt, 80 
 
 Hamburg, 84-5, 121, 155, 203, 215- 
 
 16, 277, 320-1, 373 
 Hameln, 48, 104 
 Hamilton, Mr., 366 
 Hanover, 24, 86, 94, 121, 173-4, 1S7, 
 
 216, 324 
 Hanover, Princess Frederica of, 283 
 Hardanger Fiord, 164-5 
 Hardinge, Sir A., 37 
 Hardinge, Sir Charles, 420 
 Hare, Augustus — Studies in Russia, 
 
 quoted, 43-4 
 Harris, Dr., 195 
 Hastiere, 357 
 Haukelid Pass, 364 
 Havre, no, 181 
 Hay, Mr. Drummond, 84 
 Heath, Mr., 191, 193 
 Heaton and Butler, 242 
 Hechler, Prof., 29, 180, 188, 270, 347, 
 
 349, 350. 352 
 Heidelberg, 7, 20, 30, 92, 266, 302, 
 
 335, 357 
 
 Heidenheim, Dr., 60, 61-2 
 
 Heinrich, Princess, 171 
 
 Heligoland, 173 
 
 Hellerup, 156 
 
 Hellmuth, Bishop and Mrs., 177 
 
 Helsingborg, 80, 317 
 
 Hendaye, 380, 381 
 
 Henri IV, 306 
 
 Henry IV of England, 109 
 
 Herat, 329 
 
 Herbert, Mr., 318, 330, 361-2 
 
 Herbesthal, 324 
 
 Hernosand, 84 
 
 Hertzel, Prof., 270 
 
 Hertzog, Bishop, 21, 61 
 
 Hesse-Darmstadt, Princess Elizabeth 
 
 of, 249 
 Hesse-Darmstadt, Prince Louis, Grand 
 
 Duke of, interviews with, 7-8, 58, 
 
 60, 1 14-15, 170 71 ; equestrian 
 
 statue of, 309 
 Hill, Dr., 196, 217-18 
 Hilversum, visit to, 374-7 
 Hohenlohe, Princess, 13 
 Holbein's Madonna, 296 
 Holland- 
 Boer War, feeling as to, 373-4 
 
 Buildings in, foundations of, 31 
 
 Children in, 374-5 
 
 Confirmation in, 1 1 
 
 Farms in, 375-6 
 
 Fogs in, 376 
 
 Hook route to, 215 
 
 Visits to (1892), 181-3; (1896), 277 ; 
 (1904), 388-9 
 
 Winter of 1895 in, 219 
 Homburg, 186, 231-2, 335, 392 ; visit 
 
 to the Emperor Frederick at, 118-20 
 Hook of Holland, 69, 215 
 Hopkinson grave, Territet, 312 
 Hoppergarten, 28 
 Horton, 275 
 Hovedo, 273 
 
 Howard, Sir H. and Lady, 388 
 Howell, Mr., 61, 62 
 Hubbard, Mr. John, 144, 225 
 Hughes, Messrs., 42, 44 
 Hughesoft'ky, 42, 44-5 
 Hugo, Victor, 311 
 Hungary — 
 
 Travelling in, 349 
 
 Visits to (1S96), 267-71 ; (1902), 
 
 349-53 
 Huss, John, 301 
 Hyacinthe, Pere, 92 
 
 Ibsen, 272 
 
 Ice-breakers, 325 
 
 Ice sports in St. Petersburg, 37-8
 
 INDEX 
 
 43> 
 
 Iceland cod-fishing, 88-9 
 
 Igel, 17 
 
 Iges, island of, 361 
 
 Innshriick, 180, 223, 384-5 
 
 Irby, Mr., 378 
 
 Isenfluhe, 93 
 
 Isidore, Archbishop, 40, 41, 146 
 
 Italy, journey through (1895), 223-4; 
 
 (1897), 280-281 
 Ivan IV, 244 
 
 Jackson, Bishop, i, 5 
 
 Jameson, Dr., Transvaal raid of, 234, 
 265 
 
 Japan- 
 Chinese War indemnity, 242 
 English alliance, Russian feeling as 
 to, 344, 348 
 
 Jemtlantl, 319 
 
 Jennisen, Countess, 20 
 
 Jerome, J. K. , 312 
 
 Jews — 
 
 Confirmation of, 120, 277, 321 
 Russia, expulsion from, 221-2 
 Warsaw, in, 235 
 Zionist scheme for, 270 
 
 Jewish State, A, cited ^ 270 
 
 Joan of Arc, 3 
 
 John Strange Winter, 306 
 
 Johnson, Mr., 178 
 
 Johnston, Mr. and Mrs., 310 
 
 Josephine, Empress, 385 
 
 Journal de St. Petersburg, cited, 417 
 
 Jugenheim, 58 
 
 Jutland, 69, 202-3, 313 
 
 Kamschatka, 216 
 
 Kamtekuzin, Prince, 42 
 
 Karyoli, Count, 350 
 
 Kasan, Metropolitan Archbishop of, 41 
 
 Kearney, Mr., 336 
 
 Kennan, 216 
 
 Kennedy, Rev. Mr. and Mrs., 317 
 
 Kieff, riots at, 343 note, 347 
 
 Kieff, Metropolitan Archbishop of, 41 
 
 Kiel, 70, 109, 370 
 
 Kiemmens, Mrs., 347 
 
 Kilmainham, Lord, 214 
 
 King Solomon^ s Mines, 99 
 
 Kingston, Lady, 293 
 
 Kinnaird, Lord, 307 
 
 Kirkebo, 273-5 
 
 Kitchener, Mrs., 285 
 
 Kitchener, Lord, 304 
 
 Kleine, 319 
 
 Kleish - Keyserlingk, Baron and Ba- 
 
 ronne, 197 
 Kloster Thor, accident at, 321 
 Knesebeck, Baron von, 115, 116 
 
 Koch, Captain, 43-4 
 
 Kochelsee, 300 
 
 Koln, 30, 32, 56, 67, 68, 114 
 
 Konigsberg, 33, 394, 396 
 
 Kiinigsee, 271 
 
 Korff, Baroness, 280 
 
 Koschedari, 197, 398 
 
 Kouskova, 130-3, I40 
 
 Kovno, 95 
 
 Kragero, 162 
 
 Krasnoyarsk, 237, 343 
 
 Kreutz, Antonio, Swiss guide, 15 1-2 
 
 Krogh, Herr von, 367 
 
 Kronberg, castle of, 80 
 
 Krone, Countess Lilian, 329 
 
 Kriiger, Paul, 373-4 
 
 Kudasheflf, Princess, 276 
 
 Kutchko, 139-40 
 
 La Garaye, ruins of, 53 
 
 La Teste, 107 
 
 La Trappe, 89 
 
 Ladoga, Lake, visit to, I43-5 
 
 Luhon, ablx-y at, 54 
 
 Lambert, Colonel, 92 
 
 Lamsdorf, Count and Countess, 129, 
 
 130-3 
 Landes, region of the, 106-7, ^'O 
 Landscrona, 80 
 Langenburg, 320 
 Langton, Air., 61 
 Languedoc, 281 
 Laps, 140 
 Larks, crested, 297 
 Lascelles, Sir F. and Lady, 261, 291-2, 
 
 324-5- 337, 3S9-90 
 Last Great War, cited, 16 
 Lausanne, 21, 22, 61, 93, 117, 148, 
 
 180-1, 200, 218, 226, 271, 279, 290, 
 
 307. 330. 335, 362 
 Lauterljach, 263 
 Lauter])runnen, 93 
 Leipsig, 29, 295, 354-56. 391 
 Leopold F"erdinand, Prince, 300 
 Lescar, 322 
 Leveson-Gower, Mr. Arthur, 2S, 117, 
 
 388 
 Libau, 195, 196, 197, 40'-3> 4' 2 
 Libramont, 1 6- 1 7 
 Lille, 89, 228 
 Linden, Count and Countess Carl von, 
 
 179, 199 
 Lindholm, 205 
 Lisbcth (R. Haggard), 287 
 Lister, Mr., 330 
 Little Belt, 69 
 Livadia, 146 
 
 Lloyd, Mr. and Mrs., 334-5 
 Locarno, 224
 
 432 
 
 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL 
 
 Loch, Lady, 152 
 
 Lodz, 420 
 
 Loflhus, 165 
 
 Lomas, Mr., 3", 33' > 335 
 
 London streets, vice in, 307 
 
 Longarde de Longarde, Madame, 
 
 quoted, 338 
 Lonsdale, Lord, 314 
 Louis XIV, 3, 142 
 Louis XVin, 304 
 Louis Philippe, 12 
 Louisa, Queen of Germany, 325 
 Louise, Princess, 25 
 Lourdes, 175-6, 282-3 
 Lowe, Colonel, 226-7 
 Lowe, Mr., 100 
 Loyson, Madame, 92 
 Llibeck, 319, 371-2 
 Lucerne, 150 
 Luck, Mr., 319 
 
 Ludwig, Prince, of Germany, 1 16, 150 
 Lumley, Mr., 277 
 Lumley, Sir Saville, 4, 11, 51 
 Lumsden, Sir Peter, 329 
 Lund, 208 
 Luther, Martin, 296 
 Luxemburg, state of, 17 
 Lyall, Sir A., 90 
 Lyons, 117, 200, 281 
 Lyons, Lord, i, 6, 49, 105 
 Lytton, Lady, 112, 152 
 Lytton, Lord, 90, 112, 152, 179 
 
 McAlister family, 1 10 
 
 McCandless, Mr., 171, 199 
 
 McCullum, Mr., 145 
 
 McGill, Mr., 138 
 
 Mackenzie, Bishop, grave of, 227 
 
 Mackenzie, Dr., 96, 100 
 
 Maes, R., 88 
 
 Magenta, 280-1 
 
 Maitre Pierre, cited, 107 
 
 Makkofski, 133 
 
 Maladetta, 282 
 
 Malar Lake, 84, 205, 207 
 
 Malet, Sir Edward, 24, 25, 28, 97, 
 
 103, 174, 230 
 Malet, Lady Ermyntrude, 96-7, 121 
 Malmo, 208 
 Manchuria, 237 
 Marenski, 10, 99, 100 
 Mareuil, Col. Villebois, 378 
 Marie of Denmark, Princess, 72 
 Mariefried, 207 
 Marken, island of, 183 
 Marki, 420 
 
 Marlborough, Duke of, 3 1 
 Marmor Palace, Potsdam, loo 
 Marshall, Mrs., visit to, 153-4 
 
 Mary Queen of Scots, 142, 188 
 
 Mason, Mr., 325 
 
 Maud, Princess, 72, 77, 276, 315, 368, 
 
 369 . . 
 Maximilian, Emperor, 30 
 Maximovitch, 41 1 
 Maynard, Mr., 29, 115, 116 
 Meiningen, Princess of, 118 
 Melita, Princess, 191 
 Melk, 266 
 
 Melville, Lord. See Dundas 
 Memel, 196, 325, 396 
 Meran, iSo, 223, 280 
 Metz, 23, 381 
 Michael, Grand Duke, 191 
 Middlefart, 69 
 Millbank, Mr., 353 
 Minsk, 127, 240 
 Mitchell, Mr., 159, 272 
 Moczarska, Zygmund, 348 
 Mohila, 95 
 Moltke, 288, 358 
 Mon Bijou Palace Chapel, 10 
 Monikendam, 182 
 
 Monson, Sir Edward, preface by, vii-xii 
 Monson, Sir Edward and Lady, 70, 
 72, 73. 77, 79. 266, 269, 330, 
 361-2, 391^ 
 Montataire, Chateau, 306 
 Montefiore, Sir Joseph, 352 
 Montreux, 92-3, 148, 200 
 Moore, Mr., 156, 187-8, 230, 293, 354 
 Morat, 289 
 Moreau, General, 189 
 Morgan, H. A., 80 
 Morier, Sir R., and Lady, 36, 41, 140, 
 
 197 
 Mornheim, Count, 280 
 Mornex, 200 
 Moscow — 
 
 Cathedral of St. Saviour, 249 
 
 Descriptions of, quoted, 139, 243-4 
 
 Foundling Hospital, 346-7 
 
 Governesses' Home, 346 
 
 Journey to, from Warsaw, described, 
 240-2 
 
 Napoleon's advance to, and retreat 
 from, 127 
 
 Peresilni Prison, description of, 246-9 
 
 Sunday in, 242 
 
 Visits to, 128-30, 133-8, 343-7 
 Moscow, Metropolitan Archbishop of, 
 
 41 
 Mozart, violin of, 263 
 Mukden, 398, 399, 404 
 Miinchenstein, disaster at, 312 
 Munchausen, Baron, Castle of, 104 
 Munich, 62-4, 223, 299-300, 385 
 Muravieff, 323
 
 INDEX 
 
 433 
 
 Murray, Regent, 142 
 Murray, Captain, 418 
 
 Naes, 364 
 
 Nansen, Fridtiof, 161, 272, 275, 298, 
 
 366 
 Nantes, 378 
 Napoleon I, 3, 65, 295, 330 ; Moscow 
 
 march and retreat, 95-6, 127, 240, 
 
 394 
 Napoleon III, 107, 280, 301, 305; 
 
 capture of, 17; after Sedan, 30, 
 
 357-61 
 Napoleon, Prince Imperial, 3, 5, 29, 
 
 264 
 Napoleon Stein, Leipsig, 295 
 Narbonne, 281 
 Nassau, Duke of, 20 
 Naumann, 413 
 
 Netherlands, Prince Henry of the, 389 
 Neuchatel, 218, 289, 331 
 Neufahrwasser, 394 
 Neuilly, 1-2, 111-12 
 Neva, scenes on, 140-1 
 New York Herald, cited, 90 
 Nicholson, Mr. and Mrs., 296 
 Nicolai, Bishop, 251 
 Nihilists, 148 
 Nika, Patriarch, 138 
 Nolken, 418 
 Nonnens, Miss, 80 
 
 Nordenskjold, Count and Countess, 362 
 Norfolk, restoration of churches in, 75 
 Norway — 
 
 Stave kirks of, 161 
 
 Sweden, separation from, 424 
 
 Visits to (1890), 158-67 ; (1896), 
 
 271-5; (1902), 363-7 
 Novgorod, Archbishop of, 254 
 Noyes, Dr., 279 
 Nugent, Sir J., 214 
 Nyborg, 70 
 
 O'Donovan, 137 
 
 O'Neil, Mr., 227 
 
 Oberoblingen, 168 
 
 Odde, 164-5, 363-5 
 
 Odensee, 70 
 
 Oder River, 329 
 
 Odessa, Archbishop of, 254 
 
 Oldenburg, Grand Duke of, 370 
 
 Oppenheim, 1 14-15 
 
 Oppenheimer, Sir C., 231 
 
 Orleans family, I 
 
 Orthez, 177 
 
 Osborne, the — 
 
 Description of interior of, 276-7 
 
 Luncheon on board, 72-5 
 
 mentioned, 208, 209 
 
 Oscarshal, 273 
 
 Oslotchin, 124, 234, 421 
 
 Osnabrl\ck, 277 
 
 Ottenau, 199 
 
 Otto III, Emperor, 386 
 
 Our Vice-Kegal Life in India, cited, 201 
 
 Owen, Sir P. CunlifTe, 71 
 
 Owls- 
 Habits of, 333 
 Swedish, 319 
 
 Paget, Sir Augustus, 64-6 
 Pakenham, Sir Francis and Lady, 318- 
 
 ^9 . 
 Pamitin, General, 194 
 Parame, 154, 215 
 Paris — 
 Accident in, French behaviour at, 
 
 201-2 
 American church in, 50, 279 
 Arc de I'Etoile, 312 
 Commune, effects of, 1-2 
 Conference, Annual, at, 152 
 DutTerin, Lord and Lady, at the 
 
 Embassy, 300- 1 
 Embassy Church, services in, 90 
 English Church at, 75, ill, 112 
 Notre Dame, carvings on, 311 
 Sedan, scene after, 29-30, 1 16 
 Victoria Home for aged English- 
 women in, 278 
 Visits to (1882), I ; (1883), 5-6; 
 (1887), 49-50; (1SS9), 111-13 ; 
 (1892), 179; (1896), 264-5; (1900). 
 329-30; (1902), 361-2; {1904), 
 
 391 
 
 Wallace, Sir R. , church budt by, 90 
 Paris, Comte de, 12 
 Parr, Mr., 162 
 Pau, 109, 112, 177,214-15,283, 322-3, 
 
 380 
 Peel, Lady Emily, visit to, 279 
 Peipus, Lake, 34 
 Pekin, 225 
 Peninsular War — 
 
 Anecdotes of, loS 
 
 Hi'j'orical district f)f, 213 
 
 Monument to officers killed in, 2 1 2- 13 
 Penjdeh, 179, 191, 329 
 Peresilni Prison, 246-9 
 Peter the Great, 36, 13S, 142, 145.245 
 Pflugel, Mr., 216 
 Phelps, Mr., 28 
 Phillippo, Sir George, 289 
 Phipps, Lady, 422 
 
 Phipps, Sir Constantine, 357, 392. 422 
 Pictures — 
 
 Amsterdam, at 181, 287-8, 321 
 
 Berlin, at, 23c 
 
 2 F
 
 434 
 
 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL 
 
 Pictures — 
 Bloks', 275 
 Brussels, at, 211-12, 385 
 
 Copenhagen, at, 369 
 Dresden, at, 294 
 Diisseldorf, at, 302, 312 
 Gothenburg, at, 317 
 Hague, at the, 286 
 Holbein's Madonna, 296 
 Leipzig, at, 355, 356 
 Lille, at, 228 
 Munich, at, 63, 300, 3S5 
 Rotterdam, at, 32 
 Russian, 249 
 
 Scandinavian school of, 205-6 
 Schwerin, at, 373 
 Stockholm, at, 319 
 Vienna, at, 66, 353 
 Wiertz Gallery, Brussels, 211 
 Pigot, 108 
 
 Pine trees, tapping of, 106-7 
 Plehve, 415 
 Plon, 370 
 
 Plotenyi, Mr and Mrs., 267 
 Plunkett, Sir F. and Lady, visits to, 
 
 158, 291, 304, 323. 352-3 
 Pobiedonostzeff, 138, 253, 254, 256, 
 
 408, 419 
 Poland — 
 
 Crisis of 1905 in, 418-20 
 
 Funeral in, 419 
 
 German frontier of, 124 
 
 Russian, 234-5 : Russian oppression 
 
 in, 235-8 
 South African War, feeling as to, 348 
 Visit to, 124-7 
 Pole star, 208-9, 276, 343. 367, 369 ; 
 
 description of, 315-17 
 Poles, description of, 417-8 
 PoUand, Mr., 338 
 Pomerania, 230 
 Poniatowski, 235, 355 
 Poperinghe, 52-53 
 Popoffsky — Rival Powers in Central 
 
 Asia, cited, 417 
 Potsdam, 95, 100 ; visit to Emperor 
 
 Frederick's tomb at, 100-3 
 Praga, 127, 418 
 Prague, Jerome of, 301 
 Preetz, 370 
 
 Presburg or Pozony, 267 
 Pretoria, 10 
 
 Princesse Henriette, collision of, I lO-l I 
 Prussia, Princess Heinrich of, 58 
 Pskoff, 146 
 Pskov, 34 
 
 Pyrenees, visits to, 175-7. 215, 281-3, 
 322 381 
 
 Radolin, Prince, 292-3 
 
 Radzewill, Princess, 126 
 
 Raglan, Lord, 344 
 
 Ramagen, Baron, 283 
 
 Raschdorf, Herr, 25 
 
 Ratibor, Prince, 222 
 
 Ratisbon, 67 
 
 Reusch, Prof., 371 
 
 Rheinhartsbrun, 230-1 
 
 Rhine, 93, 217 
 
 Riga, 46-7, 95, 147, 195, 260-1, 325, 
 
 327-8, 463 ; crisis of 1905 in, 410-12 
 Riga and Courland, Archbishop of, 260 
 Ripley, Mr. 22 
 Roberts, Major, 7, 172, 332 
 Roeder, Baron von, 288-9 
 Romanoff House, Moscow, 136-7 
 Roosendal, 88 
 Rosenau, 296-9 
 Rosenberg castle, 369-70 
 Roskilde, 314 
 Rossinieres, 311 
 Rotterdam, II, 31-2 
 Roubaix, mills of, 89 
 Rouen, 49, 227-8, 362 
 Roxby, Commander, 276, 277 
 Rubens, 219 
 
 Rumbold, Sir H. and Lady, 185 
 Rummelsburg, 28, 32, 87, 96, 
 Russell, Dr., 9, 16-17 ; quoted, 239 
 Russia — 
 
 Anglican Church, sympathy shown 
 to, 257-9, 260, 339, 340 
 
 Animal and bird life in, 405 
 
 Begging in, 245 
 
 Bible translated into language of, 41 
 
 Church and State in, 42, 138, 189 
 
 Cows in, 338 
 
 Crisis of 1905 in, 393, 396-416, 420-1 
 
 English feeling in, 250 
 
 Fire, precaution against, in cities, 250 
 
 Frontier, 33, 197, 293, 325-6, 395, 
 402 
 
 Indian question in, 416-17 
 
 Journey to and from St. Petersburg, 
 33-5, 46-8 
 
 Lenten diet in, 130, 131-2 
 
 Musical Levites of, 41, 338 
 
 National character, 414-15 
 
 Passports, difficulties as to, 237-8, 
 261 
 
 Peasantry, ignorance of, 250 
 
 Polish relations, 125, 127, 235-8 
 
 Political prisoners in, 248 
 
 Prison system in, 245-9 
 
 Railway travelling in, 33-4. 46, 
 138-9, 190, 239-41, 326-8; de- 
 scription of railway station, 241-2 
 
 Refugees, deportation of, 401-2
 
 INDEX 
 
 435 
 
 Russia — 
 
 Relip;ious teaching in, 407-8 
 
 Revolutionary class in, 238-9 
 
 Riots in, 343 and note 
 
 Sledge travelling in, 130-1, 143, 225, 
 256 
 
 South African War, feeling as to, 
 327, 328 
 
 Vladimir's Sunday, 409 
 
 Winter atmosphere in, 244-5 
 
 Winter of 1893 '"> 190-8 
 
 Workmen, railway, in, 238 
 Russia, Alice Czarina of, 58, 188, 259, 
 
 276 ; audience with, 340-2 
 Russia, Nicholas Czar of, 142, 188, 
 
 276, 315-17 
 Russia, Grand Duchess Sergius of, 41, 
 
 58. 259 
 Russia, Grand Duke Sergius of, 140, 
 
 249 
 Russo-Japanese War, 414 
 Rutland, Duke of, 392 
 
 Saalburg, 231-2 
 
 Saanen, 311 
 
 Sabler, Mr., 254 
 
 Saghalien, Island of, 248 
 
 St. Bartolmy, 271 
 
 St. Cloud, Palace of, 2-3 
 
 St. Emilion, 323 
 
 St. Gothard, climb up, in winter, 1 50-1 
 
 St. Jean de Luz, 108-9, 178, 213, 
 
 323. 380 
 St. John, Mr., travels of, 225-6 
 St. Levan, Lord and Lady, 109 
 St. Malo, 55, 153, 154, 285 
 St. Nazaire, 378 
 St. Paul's Cathedral, 284 
 St. Petersburg — 
 
 Basil Cathedral, 244 
 
 Conference, annual, of chaplains at, 
 
 338 
 Cathedral, new, at, 338-40 
 Confirmation at, 156 
 Crisis of 1905 in, 412-15 
 Czarina, audience with, at, 340-2 
 Demonstration on leaving, 259-60 
 English residents, number of, 75 
 Frozen meat market, 193 
 Isaac Cathedral, 39-41, 74. 75> I94- 
 
 5. 256-7, 340 
 Journey to, from Moscow, 249-50 
 Library, 141-2 
 
 Reception of Russian clergy in, 257 
 Riots in, 348-9 
 Theological Academy, opening of, 
 
 253-6 
 Visits to, 35 et seq., 140-3, 191-5 
 Winter scenery in, 412-13 
 
 St. Petersburg, Metrojxjlitan Arcli- 
 
 bishoj) of, 40, 41, 250 2, 254 
 St. Servan, 285 
 Salisbury, Lord, 13 
 Salm-Salm, Princess, 30 
 Salzburg, 266, 271 
 Samoyedes, 140 
 Sand, 363 
 
 Sandford, Bishop, 45 
 Sauers, Mr., 82 
 Saxe-Col)urg and Gotha, Duke of, 219- 
 
 223, 296-9, 329, 353, 391 
 Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, Duchess of, 
 
 41, 297-9 
 Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, Princess 
 
 Beatrice of, 297 
 Saxe- Weimar, Grand Duke of, lo, 1 1 
 Saxe-Weimar, Prince Herman of, 92 
 Scandinavia — 
 
 Level of surface of, rising of, 84 
 
 Railway travelling in, 82 
 
 Visit to (1893), 202-210 
 Schandau, 353-354 
 Schiller, Friedrich, 122, 356 
 Schleswig-IIolstein, Prince Albert of, 
 
 171, 309, 389 
 Schleswig- Holstein, Princess Amelic 
 
 of, 109 
 Schleswig-Molstein broads, 370 
 Schliisselberg, visit to, 143-5 
 Schmerling, von, 169-70 
 Schonweide, 28, 32, 87, 96 
 SchouvalofF, Count, 87 
 Schultzes, 306 
 Schwabe, Ilerr, 85 
 Schwartz, Mr., 287 
 Schwerin, 372-3 
 Scott, Sir Charles and Lady, 1 17, 209- 
 
 10, 275-6, 338, 340 
 Scott, Sir Gilbert, 84 
 Seaford, wreck of, 382-3 
 Sebastopol, 145, 344 
 Seckendorf, Count, 9, 94, 95, 119, 
 
 389-90 
 Sedan — 
 
 Anniversary of, in Frankfiirt, 231 
 
 Description of neighbourhood of, 
 357-61 
 
 Scenes after, 16-17, 305 : I'ans and 
 the Tuileries after, 29-30. 1 16 
 Seljestadt, 365 
 
 Selwyn, Bishop John, grave of, 323 
 Sepey, 311 
 Septuagint, 188 
 Shepsta, 206 S 
 Sheraniatiefl" family, 131, 256 
 ShouvalofV, Count, 238 
 Siberia — 
 
 Polish stories of 236-7
 
 436 
 
 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL 
 
 Siberia — 
 
 Prisoners to — 
 Classes of, 248 
 Prison for, described, 245-9 
 
 Railway across, 195, 237, 327-8, 
 343. 344-6 
 
 Scenery in, 343-4 
 Siberian Prisons, cited, 2x6 
 Sierre, 384 
 
 Sigismund, Prince of Germany, 102 
 Sigmaringen, 222 
 Sinai, Mount, 141 
 Singer, Mr. and Mrs., 21-2 
 Sipido, 324 
 Skaggerack, 203 
 Skepsholm, 319 
 Skobeleff, 329 
 Sledge journeys in Russia, 130-I, 143, 
 
 225, 256 
 Smith, Mr. and Mrs. Bosworth, 383 
 Smolensk, 127, 240 
 Smythe, Mr., 105 
 Socialism, views on, 221 
 Sommerau, 301 
 
 Sophie, Princess, of Germany, 1 18-19 
 South African War, Continental feeling 
 
 as to, 321, 323-4, 327, 328, 332, 348, 
 
 354, 373-4 
 Spa, 56 
 
 Spanish Inquisition mementoes, 286-7 
 Spichenburg, 382 
 Stalheim, 166 
 Standart, 315 
 
 Stanley, Dean, 76, 284 ; quoted, 243-4 
 Stavanger, 163-4, 363 
 Staverton, 7 
 Steere, Bishop, 271 
 Stephens, Mr. and Mrs., 381 
 Stephens, Sir Condie, 179, 220-1, 329 
 Stettin, 230 
 Stevensons, the, 323 
 Stewart, Sir Donald, 188 
 Stockholm, 71, 83-4, 147, 158, 205-6, 
 
 318-19 
 Storks, 60 
 Strasburg, 6-7 
 Street, Mr., 22, 61 
 Streton, Mrs., 140 
 
 Stuttgart, 14-15,92, 199, 285, 310, 382 
 Suffield, Lady, 314, 315 
 Suldal Lake, 364 
 Sunday, manner of spending, 309 
 Supreme Crime, quoted, 328 
 Sutton, Sir John, 7 
 Swallows, habits of, 333 
 Swayne, Colonel, 87-8, 216 
 Sweden — 
 
 Countryhousein, description of,422-4 
 
 Elk-hunting in, 424 
 
 Sweden — 
 Journey through, 80-4 
 Licensing system in, 81 
 Norway, separation from, 424 
 Railway travelling in, 83 
 Visits to (1890), 158; (1893), 203-8; 
 (1899), 317-19 
 Sweden, King and Queen of, 82, 206 
 Sweden, Prince Eugene of, 206-7 
 Sweden, Prince William of, 424 
 Swindler, capture of, in Germany, 226 
 Switzerland — 
 
 Alps, climb up the, in winter, 150-2 
 Drought in (1893), 200 
 Visits to (1886), 20-3; {1887), 60-1 ; 
 (1889), 117-18,- (1891), 180-1 ; 
 (1894), 218; (1895), 224-7; 
 (1897), 279-80; (1899), 307, 310- 
 12; (1900), 337; (1901), 331-5; 
 (1903), 384-5 
 Symonds, John Addington, 332 
 Symonds, Mrs. J. A., 172, 332 
 Szel, Prime Minister of Hungary, 351-2 
 
 Taylor, Mr., 305 
 
 Taylor, Miss, III 
 
 Tauchnitz, Baron and Baroness, 295 
 
 Teck, Prince Adolphus of, 92 
 
 Teesdale, General, 77 
 
 Teheran, 329 
 
 Telemarken, 161, 273-4 
 
 Temple, Bishop, i, 24 
 
 Templehof, 292 
 
 Territet, 118, 148, 218, 279, 290, 311- 
 
 312, 331, 335, 362 
 Terry, Ellen, son of, 92 
 Thomas, Mr. and Mrs. Evan, 284, 
 
 335-6 
 Thorburn, Mr., 203-4 
 Thornton, Mr. Conway, 350, 351 
 Thornton, Sir Edward, 191 
 Thorwaldsen Museum, 156-7 
 Thun, 225-6, 290 
 Thuringen, 230 
 Thuringerwald, 8 
 Tideman, 205 
 Tiflis, 146 
 Tilsit, 325 
 Times, The, quoted, 103-4, 125, 
 
 258-9 
 Tindal- Atkinson, Mr., 224 
 Tischendorf, Prof., 141-2 
 Titcomb, Bishop, 16, 24 
 Titiens, Madame, 85 
 Toden See, 151 
 Tonen, picture by, 205-6 
 Torcy, 361 
 Toulouse, 282 
 Tours, 1 10
 
 INDEX 
 
 437 
 
 Towers, Mr., 389 
 
 Trade, foreign competition in, 155-6 
 
 Transvaal, errors in dealing with, 
 
 265 ; war with, see South African 
 
 War 
 Trautmansdorf Castle, 280 
 Triberg, 301 
 Triers, 17-18 
 Troika sledge, 143 
 Trollhattcn, 204-5, ^75 
 Tronjhem, 84 
 
 TrytyakotT's Picture Gallery, 133-5 
 Tsarskoye Selo, 412 
 Tuileries, Palace of the, 3 » scene 
 
 around, after Sedan, 29-30, 116 
 Tyrol, severe winter in the, 223, 
 
 271-80 
 
 Uddevalla, 203-4 
 Ulefoss, 273 
 Ulm, 179 
 Ulvik, 365 
 Utrecht, 94 
 
 Vallorbes, 330 
 Vambery, 350 
 Vandrup, 147 
 Van Eyck's "Adoration of the Lamb," 
 
 148 
 Vedoz, Professor, 384 
 Venables, Canon, 228 
 Verestchagin, pictures by, 134, 135, 
 
 145 
 Versailles, 2, 6, iii 
 Vevey, 22, 290, 391 
 Victoria, Crown Princess of Germany, 
 
 see Frederick, Empress 
 Victoria, Princess, 72, 77, 276 
 Victoria, Queen, 8, 92, 96, 112, 142, 
 
 149, 198, 213, 305, 324-S 
 Victoria, wreck of, 49 
 Victoria and Albert, 367-9 
 Vienna, 29, 63-7, 266-7, 352-3 
 Viking ship, 159-60, 318 
 Viking's grave, 207 
 Vincent, Lady, 212, 213 
 Viscos, Mt., 213 
 Vivian, Lady, 50 
 Vivian, Lord, 50, 51, 71 
 Vladi-Kavkas, 146 
 VoUendam, 183 
 Vor-Arlberg, 180 
 Voss, 167 
 
 Waddington, M. et Mme., 200 
 Waldemar, Prince, tomb of, 102 
 Wales, Prince of (George), 276, 277 
 
 Wallace, Sir Richard, 50, 90, 105, M2, 
 179 
 
 Warberg, So 
 
 Ward, Mr. and Mrs., 313 
 Wardroper, story of, 259 
 Warsaw — 
 
 Crisis of 1905 in, 418 
 
 Description of, 41S-20 
 
 Journey to, 347-9 
 
 Visits to, 125-7, 1S9, 235-8, 347-9 
 Waterloo, battlefield of, 228-9 
 Webb, Bishop, 391 
 Weber, Miss, 200 
 Webster, Mr., 175, 213 
 Weimar, 10, 75, 122, 217, 329, 356 
 Weimar, Grand Uuke of, interview 
 
 with, 122, 216-17 
 Weissenburg, 20 
 Wellington, Duke of, loS, 217, 228-9, 
 
 304, 330 
 Wenern, Lake, 82 
 Weser Hill School, Ilameln, 104 
 West, Mrs., 293 
 Wettern, Lake, 82 
 White, Mr. Gilbert, 173 
 White, Sir Henry, 126 
 Wiener Neite Freic Presse, cited, 270 
 Wiertz Gallery, 211 
 Wiesbaden, 20,91, 149, 169, 185, 1S6, 
 
 199, 335 
 Wijk, surname of, 81 
 Wilhelmshohe, 30, 92, 356. 357 
 Wilkinson and Shaw, Colonels, army 
 
 institution of, at Darmstadt, 8 
 William I, Emperor of Germany, 2, 19, 
 
 90, 308, 325 
 William H, Emperor of Germany — 
 
 Audience with, 96, 97-100, 103, 
 104 
 
 Character of, 109 
 
 Loyalty to England, 324, 338, 390 
 
 mentioned, 173, 174, 314 
 Williamson, Sir Hedworth and Lady 
 
 Elizabeth, 109 
 Wilna, 34, 47 
 Wilna, Archbishop of, 95 
 _Wint<-r, Mr., 146 
 'Wirballen, 33, I97. 261, 325, 326, 
 
 396-8 
 Wishall, Mr., 349 
 Witte, M., 409 
 Wybergh, Mr., 128 
 
 Xenia, Princess, 95 
 
 Yalta, I4S-6 
 \'armmitli, 223 
 Varnisheff, 259
 
 438 
 
 CONTINENTAL WORK AND TRAVEL 
 
 Yeatman, Prof., i-2 
 
 Yermack ice-breaker, 47, 325, 405-6 
 
 Zamoiski, Count Joseph, 125-6 
 Zeeland, Bishop of, 72 
 Zollverein, German, 17 
 Zschizinski, 395 
 
 Zulus — 
 
 Fighting and hunting among, 98-2 
 Trophies of, presented to German 
 Emperor, 104 
 
 Zurich, 60, 180, 217, 224, 271, 279, 
 
 289, 332, 384, 391 
 Zuyder Zee, 182-3 
 
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