\/ \ 
 
 \/ 
 M 
 \7 
 
 W 
 /\ 
 
 f ^ 
 
 \/ 
 
 /\ 
 \ / 
 
 /\ 
 
 ' m 
 
 \ / V 
 
 4WV4V 
 
 V / V / \ / 
 
 l\/\/\ 
 Vi A AY/ 
 
 /A 
 
 \Y 
 \ 
 
 \/ 
 /\ 
 
 \/\ 
 AW 
 \/\ 
 /\/ 
 \/\ 
 
 \ /v 
 
 w 
 
 - . ;j ; A- W 
 
 \M m jp 
 i \ i 
 
 l\l\ 
 \l\l 
 i\i\ 
 \l\ 
 
 V/\ 
 \ i \ 
 
 /\ 
 V/ 
 / 
 
 ^ tt 
 
 \ / 
 
 / 
 
 \/ 
 /\ 
 \ / 
 /\ 
 
 /\ 
 \7 
 /\ 
 
 A M 
 
 \ / 
 
 \ 
 
 \/ 
 /\ 
 \ / 
 /\ 
 
 \l 
 l\ 
 \l 
 l\ 
 
 ) 
 
 / 
 \/\ 
 
 v / \
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 TO THE READER. 
 
 SINCE writing the accompanying work, an alteration 
 in the cash price of Gin, from the Rectifiers to the Trade, 
 has taken place. The scale, however, offered to the 
 notice of the Public, in the division, which more imme- 
 diately treats on the article of Gin, in this Treatise, ap- 
 plies equally as well, in respect to its extensive adultera- 
 tion and reduction, as though, another scale was ex- 
 hibited, adapted to the present prices which are quoted 
 for it. The terms which the Author has mentioned, and 
 which are agreeable to those, at the time this work was 
 commenced, are, for Gin twenty-two per cent, under- 
 proof 9s. 4d. and for the article at seventeen, per cent, un- 
 derproof 10s. per gallon. 
 
 The recent alteration which has taken place, renders 
 the cash prices from the Rectifiers to the Trade, for the 
 former strength 8s. 6d. per gallon, for the latter 9s. By 
 some of our placarders and advertisers, Gin is now sold at 
 the low price of 5s. 4d. per gallon, to enable them to do 
 which, and to permit of its being vended at that sum per 
 gallon, (allowing for the sugar and etceteras, used in 
 sweetening and making up,) it takes sixty-Jour gallons 
 and a half of water, and, further to admit of a profit of 
 only 6d. per gallon, sixteen gallons more, of the same liquid, 
 making a total of eighty gallons and a half of water, to 
 every 100 gallons of Gin at 8s. 6d. per gallon. This cal- 
 culation is offered to the Reader, to show, that, although 
 the prices which relate to the article of Gin in this 
 Treatise, differ from those, at present fixed by the Rec- 
 tifiers, yet the circumstance, does not in the least affect 
 the general statement of facts.
 
 WINE AND SPIRIT ADULTERATORS
 

 
 WINE AND SPIRIT 
 ADULTERATORS UNMASKED, 
 
 IN 
 
 & Creative, 
 
 SETTING FORTH THE MANNER EMPLOYED, AND THE VARIOUS 
 INGREDIENTS WHICH CONSTITUTE THE 
 
 ADULTERATIONS AND IMPOSITIONS 
 
 EFFECTED WITH THE DIFFERENT 
 
 WINES AND SPIRITS 
 
 OFFERED TO THE PUBLIC, 
 
 THROUGH THE MEDIUM OF CHEAP PRICES, 
 
 BY MANY OF THE 
 
 ADVERTISING AND PLACARDING WHOLESALE 
 
 WINE AND SPIRIT MERCHANTS, AND GIN-SHOP-KEEPERS, 
 
 OF THE PRESENT DAY. 
 
 ALSO 
 
 SHEWING THE METHOD BY WHICH THE NOTICE OF TH R 
 EXCISE IS EVADED, 
 
 AND AFFORDING 
 A VARIETY OK OTHER VALUABLE INFORMATION ON THE SUBJECT. 
 
 "Pro bono publico." 
 
 BY ONE OF THE OLD SCHOOL. , 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED FOR THE ADTHOR, BY J. ROBINS AND CO. IVY LANE, 
 PATERN* STER ROW. 
 
 1827.
 
 I. 
 
 IN addressing the Public on a subject of such 
 importance as the detection and exposure of fraud, 
 especially when the health and comfort of all 
 classes of the community is concerned, it is neces- 
 sary, to a forcible and efficient appeal, that the 
 person so addressing himself have considerable ex- 
 perience relative to the nature of the frauds in- 
 tended to be exposed, and that he be able to pro- 
 duce facts in support of the arguments which he 
 may see it necessary to advance. 
 
 That I can enforce the object 1 have in view, 
 in both these respects, I have every expectation ; 
 and I trust, that my labours may operate as some 
 check to the continuance of that which really exists, 
 as a most serious evil. 
 
 That the sale, through the medium of advertise- 
 ments and printed bills, of a spurious article for 
 the genuine, deserves the exposure of every honest 
 tradesman, and, if the fact be proved, the repro- 
 bation of every member of society, I should think 
 no one will attempt to deny, as the character 
 of the former, and the health and pockets of the 
 latter, both essentially suffer by the system.
 
 As an old Wine and Spirit Merchant retired 
 from business, with a competency, acquired by 
 fair trading, no feeling of pique, as to the in- 
 jury caused to my own pursuits by the system I 
 feel it rny duty to reprobate, can be supposed to 
 have suggested the idea of opening the eyes 
 of the public, to the fraudulent practises it con- 
 ceals; or, in so doing 1 , to influence me in offering 
 any other, than an impartial and matter-of-fact 
 statement. 
 
 Having a few leisure moments on my hands, and 
 from my youth having 1 been accustomed to an 
 active life, I was induced, in order to occupy my 
 leisure, to commence this treatise * for the in- 
 formation of my own circle of acquaintance; nor 
 should I have been prevailed on, to offer it to the 
 notice of the public, but for a late trial in the 
 Court of Exchequer, for adulteration, f and the 
 additional incitement, occasioned by a conviction 
 of the influence which the present system of im- 
 position (through the means of advertisements and 
 printed bills) is gaining on the public mind. 
 
 We have lately witnessed mining and other 
 wild speculations, by which the pockets of hundreds 
 have been emptied, and their estates ruined. We 
 
 * Since penning the chief part of this treatise, I have ob- 
 served some clever articles on the same subject in Nos. 516, 517, 
 518, of the Literary Gazette. 
 
 t Attorney-General versus Oldfield, to which I shall have oc- 
 casion to refer when I arrive at another part of my subject.
 
 have seen too, the long advertisements, in which 
 great and splendid advantages were offered to those 
 who chose to embark in them : the most un- 
 bounded wealth promised and expected. 
 
 In those instances, however, the results have dis- 
 covered the impositions, and exposed (though con- 
 veyed under fine high sounding expressions) the 
 adulteration of principles (if I may be allowed the 
 term) to what has been proved to be, false and empty 
 purposes. We have blamed those persons who, 
 under the supposition that all the professions were 
 genuine, were induced to embark in such under- 
 takings, and who found, by sad experience, they 
 had been deceived by spurious articles. 
 
 Notwithstanding, the credulity of the public is not 
 exhausted. Other and not less egregious impositions 
 are now placed before them by Advertising and Pla- 
 carding Wine and Spirit Merchants, the falsehood of 
 whose pretensions, are, in some respects, more easily 
 detected, as the Duties on Wines and Spirits, and 
 their cost at the Docks, are generally known ; and 
 it must therefore appear, in a great degree, extra- 
 ordinary, to persons unacquainted with the intrica- 
 cies of the business, how it is possible, for those 
 advertisers and placarders, to sell their articles at a 
 less price, than their real and apparent cost. I think, 
 I shall discharge a valuable duty, if I clear up the 
 mystery, and prove, that, instead of vending on 
 lower terms than others, and gaining less profit, 
 they are absolutely realizing larger profits than re- 
 
 B 2
 
 8 
 
 spectable persons in the trade, although they resort 
 to so expensive a plan, as that of advertising- in the 
 newspapers, and distributing printed bills, &c. 
 
 But, as ray object in this treatise is as much to 
 expose the adulterations and impositions which 
 are practised with Spirits as well as with Wine, I 
 will commence with a few remarks on the former, 
 and illustrate my position by calculation, whereby 
 the public will be enabled, to see behind the curtain. 
 
 And here, I wish it to be clearly understood, that, 
 as one professing the feelings and principles of a 
 fair tradesman, and who can conscientiously af- 
 firm that he has been such, and only such,, it is not 
 my intention to bear hard on the whole of any one 
 class of Advertising 1 and Placarding Wine and 
 Spirit Merchants, indiscriminately, for the delin- 
 quency of a part, any further than I am supported 
 by unanswerable facts ; but merely to show, that, 
 such impositions and adulterations do exist, and in 
 what manner, and by whom, they are chiefly prac- 
 tised; to the detriment of the honest trader, and the 
 sacrifice of the health and pockets of those to whom 
 * ignorance is bliss.' 
 
 It is, however, a singular fact, that the majority 
 of our Spirit Advertisers and Placarders is com- 
 posed of Gin-shop-keepers ; but, as there is no spi- 
 rit whatever so much adulterated, or with which, 
 {through the medium of cheap prices,) so much de- 
 ception is practised, as with the article of Gin, it 
 may not appear altogether so extraordinary that,
 
 having attained a proficiency in the art of selling 
 the one at less than cost price, they should form 
 the majority also of those, who airvertise Wines on 
 the same curious terms. 
 
 But, as I have already stated, that my aim is not 
 against any class of dealers in particular, any fur- 
 ther, than the facts themselves extend to them ; but, 
 to protect my fellow citizens from imposition, and 
 the honest Wine Merchant from the charge of exact- 
 ing extravagant profits, I will first endeavour to 
 show, the relative facility possessed by the Ad- 
 vertising Wine Merchant, and that by the Ad- 
 vertising Gin-shop-keeper; though, with respect to 
 the article of Spirits, I fear it will almost exclu- 
 sively apply to the latter, as one of the most essen- 
 tial requisites on which to found the means must 
 be a Retail License;* and to those, therefore, of 
 my readers who belong to the middling and poorer 
 ranks of society, and others, who purchase at these 
 receptacles, under the supposition that they' are 
 served with the genuine article, at a cheaper rate, 
 this part of my subject may be considered, as of 
 more particular and vital importance. 
 
 The only means whereby adulteration can be suc- 
 cessfully and securely carried on by the Retail or Gin- 
 
 * In addition to this retail license, any Gin-shop-keeper may 
 possess a wholesale license by paying ten pounds per annum ex- 
 tra, and may conduct the two branches of business attached to 
 them on one and the same premises; thus, from this circumstance 
 alone, he is placed far above an equality with the Wine Merchant 
 who bus only a wholtsale license.
 
 10 
 
 shop Advertiser and Placarder, is by making use 
 of the decreases, which daily occur in his stock, 
 between the periods on which his Excise Officer 
 surveys it ; and, as he is not obliged to render any 
 account of such decreases, or, if in any particular 
 article the officer should find no decrease from the 
 last stock (although it should be well known to him 
 that a portion of it had been sold), why a decrease 
 in that article should not appear, the facilities for 
 avoiding any detection of adulterating practices 
 are great indeed. 
 
 With the cheap advertiser, however, possessed 
 only of a Wholesale License, which does not allow 
 him to send out a less quantity than two gallons, the 
 case is widely different ; for, not only is every article 
 of Spirits, with its strength, which is sent from 
 his stock, taken an account of, but for any decrease 
 that may appear in that stock, (no matter from what 
 cause,*) beyond five gallons per cent, he is subject 
 
 * One of the first convictions that took place under this regu- 
 lation, was, I believe, with a Wine Merchant who had a large con- 
 nexion in the navy, and who pleaded (on a decrease of more than 
 five gallons per cent, being found in his stock of spirits) that he 
 had been treating a number of his naval customers with punch, &c. 
 but as the commissioners did not think he possessed a sufficient 
 number to cause the decrease, his plea was rejected : what makes 
 the circumstance exceedingly singular, was his having been one 
 of the persons who proposed and assisted in the framing of the Act. 
 The object of entailing a penalty for this offence, was for the pur- 
 pose of protecting the Gin-shop-keeper against the wholesale 
 dealer acting as a retailer ; but as the former has no difficulty with 
 his decreases, (although having a wholesale license in addition to 
 his other), as he has only to account for them as having been oc-
 
 to a heavy fine. Hence it follows, that, very few 
 persons indeed, if any, having 1 only Wholesale Li- 
 censes, are found to advertise cheap Spirits ; and, if 
 they do, it is at considerably higher prices than 
 those quoted by the class of Gin-shop-keepers ; 
 and their means of doing so at all, may be consi- 
 dered, with but few exceptions, to arise more from 
 the inferior quality of the Spirits, than from any 
 great extent of adulteration. To begin, however, 
 with the article of 
 
 COGNAC BRANDY. 
 
 The prices, as I have gathered them from sun- 
 dry advertisements and placards, and from the nu- 
 merous printed bills left at my house (to the great 
 annoyance of myself and servants), at which the 
 advertising dealers propose to sell the very finest 
 qualities of this brandy, are 27s. 6d. ; 26s. ; 25s. 
 6d.j 24s.; and 23s. Qd. per gallon; but, when 
 I shall have shown to my readers, as I will 
 do, that, notwithstanding all the heavy expences 
 which attach to this article, and that, although 
 no description of it is to be purchased at any- 
 thing like even the highest of the advertised 
 prices, an enormous profit is realized by the pla- 
 carders, I almost question whether many will not 
 feel a desire to engage in such an extremely lucrative 
 
 casioned by what he has sold over his bar in small quantities, how 
 amply to his benefit the object is fulfilled I leave others to surmise.
 
 12 
 
 traffic. In order, however, to enable the reader to 
 understatld the manner in which the adulteration 
 of this article is performed, I shall describe, shortly, 
 the materials, which enter into the composition of 
 the spurious Brandy, which generally comprises the 
 stock of the Advertising Wine and Spirit Merchant. 
 The methods, by which Cognac Brandy is adul- 
 terated, are various ; but, they are all effected by 
 the admixture with such portion of it, as will an- 
 swer the intention of the cheap seller, of the follow- 
 ing 1 articles. In some instances the whole, in 
 others, only a part of them are introduced ; and the 
 number, quantity, and proportions in which they 
 are used, are regulated by the experience, which 
 the placarder has acquired, of the public taste. 
 
 Spanish or Brandies of very inferior quality to Cognac. They 
 
 T> i are but seldom used by the advertising retailer, as 
 
 they pay the same duty as Cognac, and therefore, 
 
 .Brandy. approach too nearly the same expense, to serve as 
 
 a profitable basis. I believe, however, that they 
 
 are frequently sold genuine (except only a slight 
 
 Deduction in strength) by the wholesale Spirit ad- 
 
 \Xvertiser, under the title of ' Curious old soft Jla- 
 
 vored Cognac, ten years old' 
 
 Old Neil- Neutral-flavored Rum, is such, as possesses the 
 t 1 fl avor _ least flavor. It must be of the finest quality, and 
 the highest marks of Wedderburn's Rums are ge- 
 ea ivum. nerally preferred as being of that description. 
 Their prices vary from 13*. 9d. to 14*. 6rf. with- 
 out the overproof, if purchased by the puncheon ; 
 but if in smaller quantities, the cost is at a higher 
 rate.
 
 13 
 
 Rectified 
 Spirits. 
 
 v British 
 Brandy 
 Bitters. 
 
 By rectified Spirits, is not meant the usual Spirits 
 of Wine, though now sold by our rectifiers, in 
 some respects, under the same regulation. The 
 difference between the two articles in their manu- 
 facture is, that the rectified Spirits of which I now 
 speak, is distilled from better and cleaner Spirits, 
 arid afterwards rectified to extract the essential oil, 
 ir>order to render it as tasteless as possible; whilst 
 ^--Spirits of Wine is generally made, from the feints 
 and refuse of all other Spirits and Compounds put 
 together; and undergoes, only the simple process of 
 distillation. It is sold under the denomination of 
 plain Spirits, and is to be bought at twenty-five 
 per cent, overproof for about 15s. 7d. per gallon, 
 including ihe overproof; and, therefore, when re- 
 duced to proof, costs only 12s. 5d. per gallon, as 
 
 the following will show : 
 
 L. s. d. 
 100 gals, of Rectified Spirits at 
 
 15*. 7rf. . . 77 18 4 
 25 gals, of water to reduce it to proof 
 makes up 125 gals, proof Rectified Spirits at 
 
 ~~12s. 5K T&y is . 77 18 4 
 
 It may be requisite, however, just to observe, that, 
 all dealers are restricted from keeping Rectified Spi- 
 rits in stock, or sending it out at a less strength 
 than it is received in at. But as the retailer has 
 to render no other account of its disposal to his 
 Excise Officer, (should there be a decrease), when 
 the stock is taken, than is afforded by the permits 
 he has had occasion to draw for sending out two 
 gallons of it or upwards, such a restriction does 
 not in the least interfere with his means of using 
 it in any Spirit he pleases. 
 
 British Brandy Bitters is used to fill up the 
 flavor, but comparatively in small quantities, as it 
 is exceedingly powerful : it is usually composed of
 
 14 
 
 British 
 Brandy. 
 
 Cherry- 
 
 laurel 
 
 water. 
 
 Extract of 
 
 Almond 
 
 Cake. 
 
 Extract of 
 Capsicums, 
 or Extract 
 ofGrainsof 
 Paradise. 
 
 Rectified Spirits, Camomile Flowers, 
 Cassia, Orange Peel, 
 
 Carraways, &c. &c. 
 
 The cost is about 9*. 6d. per gallon. 
 
 An imitation of French : the compound of which, 
 previously to distillation, consists generally of the 
 following proportionate ingredients : 
 
 80 gallons of Rectified Spirits, 50 overproof. 
 7 gallons of Vinegar. 
 
 12 ounces of Grace Root. 
 
 15 pounds of Raisins. 
 2 pounds of Vitriol. 
 
 The cost price is from 13s. to 14s. per gallon, 
 twenty-two per cent, underproof. 
 
 This is intended to answer the same purpose as 
 British Brandy Bitters, but is more generally 
 made use of, because the quantity of it applied 
 does not prevent a trial of the strength of the 
 Brandy by the hydrometer. Its qualities are 
 highly pernicious, and even poisonous. 
 
 Extract of Almond Cake is prepared by keeping a 
 quantity of the cake in Spirits of Wine for a long 
 time. It is intended to impart to adulterated 
 Brandy a taste resembling the fine kernel flavor 
 which the genuine article possesses. 
 
 Known in the trade by the denomination of ' Devil. 
 The Extract of Capsicums is made by putting a 
 quantity of the small East India Chellies into a 
 bottle of Spirits of Wine, and keeping it closely 
 stopped for about a month. The same process is 
 performed with Grains of Paradise. The purposes 
 of both are obvious from their natures. They are 
 used to impart an appearance of strength by the 
 hot pungent flavor which they infuse into the Spi- 
 rit requiring their aid. They are mixed separately,
 
 15 
 
 according to the opinions of the maker-up as to 
 which answers the purpose best; their properties 
 being similar, with respect to their giving a hot 
 taste in the mouth, which passes for strength with 
 the persons imposed upon. 
 
 Colouring 1 , Colouring consists merely of a preparation of 
 S o burnt sugar. It is employed to bring up the colour 
 of Brandy which may have become too pale by the 
 V^ preceding mixtures. It is used to answer the 
 same end with Rum. The reasons for the appli- 
 cation of sugar will be seen in the course of my 
 remarks. 
 
 My Readers being thus necessarily informed of 
 the ingredients which compose the various adul- 
 terations of Brandy, after a few further remarks, in 
 order to render them still better acquainted with the 
 nature of the subject on which I am treating, I 
 will offer to their notice such examples as shall 
 clearly prove the facts I have advanced. 
 
 By a late Act of Parliament all dealers are 
 allowed to reduce Brandy, Rum, Arrack, Hol- 
 lands &c, to any degree of strength not less than 
 seventeen per cent underproof,* by Sykes's Hy- 
 
 * My acquaintance with the Wine trade has been very ex- 
 tensive, and enables me to state that I have never known any of 
 those individuals who carried on what may be termed the more 
 respectable business, (that is, where the Wine Merchant depended 
 more on the quality of his article than on any extraordinary cheap- 
 ness in price,) to keep their Brandies and Rums, &c. at a less 
 strength than six or eight per cent, underproof, although they 
 were allowed by the Act to reduce them to seventeen percent, un- 
 derproof.
 
 16 
 
 drometer :f but that trade must be very poor indeed 
 that does not allow a retail dealer to keep, (without 
 the fear of detection,) a stock of ten or twenty 
 gallons of both Brandy and Rum always on hand, 
 
 f I have borrowed the following extract from Accum's Culi- 
 nary Poisons, (page 235), as affording the clearest definition of 
 the terms underproof and overproof, and the nature of the hy- 
 drometer : he says, ' By the Excise Laws at present existing in 
 this country, the various degrees of strength of Brandy, Rum, Ar- 
 rack, Gin, Whisky, and all other spirituous liquors, chiefly com- 
 posed of little else than Spirits of Wine, are determined by the 
 quantity of alcohol, of a given specific gravity, contained in the 
 spirituous liquor of a supposed unknown strength. The great 
 public importance of this subject in this country, where the con- 
 sumption of spirituous liquors adds a vast sum to the public re- 
 venue, has been the means of instituting many very interesting ex- 
 periments on the subject. The instrument used for that purpose, 
 by the Customs and officers of the Excise, is called Sykes's hy- 
 drometer, which has superseded the instrument called Clarke's 
 hydrometer, heretofore in use. The specific gravity or strength 
 of the legal standard spirit of excise is technically called proof, 
 or proof spirit. " This liquor (not being sweetened, or having 
 any ingredients dissolved in it to defeat the strength thereof) , at 
 the temperature of 51 Farhenheit, weighs exactly -\\ parts of an 
 equal measure of distilled water;" and with this spirit, the 
 strengths of all other spirituous liquors are compared according to 
 law. The strength of Brandy, Rum, Arrack, Gin, and other spi- 
 rituous liquors weaker than proof, or below proof, is estimated by 
 the quantity of water which would be necessary to bring the spirit 
 up to proof. The hydrometer is calculated to show the per cent- 
 age of strength above or below proof, as the case may be, of the 
 Spirit submitted to trial. The stem of the instrument is gra- 
 duated, and so subdivided, as to meet every variety in the strength 
 of the liquor to be examined which may fall between the weights ,. 
 (nine in number) used with the instrument; the divisions and sub- 
 divisions on the hydrometer, which remain above the surface of
 
 17 
 
 at twenty or even twenty-five per cent under- 
 proof.* The duty on Brandy, per imperial gallon, 
 
 the liquor in which the instrument is made to swim, being added 
 to the number on the weight used, and together forming the indi- 
 cation. But as the difference of temperature affects materially the 
 specific gravity of spirituous liquors, a thermometer and tables of 
 the concentration of strength, as denoted by the hydrometer, are 
 used in the application of the instrument. The officer of Excise 
 has, therefore, only to turn to the tables opposite the indication, 
 and immediately under the temperature he finds the per centage 
 of the strength of the liquor; for example, 
 
 Weight used . . . .60 
 
 Subdivision shown by the hydrometer 
 
 Temperature by the Thermometer 68 
 
 Opposite 51,% in the column of indication, and under the 68th de- 
 gree of temperature, is 8-j per cent, above or over proof; " had, 
 however, the weight 60 been required, instead of weight 50, at 
 the same degree of temperature, the indication would have been 
 61,%, and the strength 6-fa per cent, below or underproof." 
 
 ' Brandy and Rum is seizable if sold by, or found in the posses- 
 sion of the dealer, unless it possess a certain strength, (seventeen 
 per cent, under proof by Sylces's hydrometer)/ The following are 
 the words of the Act, (30 Geo. 3, c. 37, sec. 31.) No distiller, rec- 
 tifier, compounder, or dealer, shall serve or send out any foreign 
 spirits of a lower strength than that of one in six, under hydro- 
 meter proof, according to Clarke's hydrometer, (equivalent to se- 
 venteen per cent, below proof according to Sykes's hydrometer) 
 nor have in his possession any foreign Spirits mixed together, ex- 
 cept Cherry or Raspberry Brandy, of lower strength, than as 
 aforesaid, upon pain of such Spirits being forfeited, and such Spi- 
 rits, with the casks and vessels containing the same, may be seized 
 by any officer of Excise. 
 
 * As a proof that I do not exaggerate facts, about a week
 
 18 
 
 is 22s. Qd. ; and the cost at this time of good fail- 
 Brandy from 4*. Qd. to 5s. per gallon, indepen- 
 dently of the usual reckoning of lOd. per gallon 
 as interest on duty : for example 
 
 L. s. d. L. s. d. 
 
 Duty . 126 Duty . 126 
 
 Cost . 046 Cost . 050 
 
 Advanceof money 10 Advance of money 10 
 
 1 7 10 per gal. 184 per gal. 
 
 Thus, then, the first costs 27s. \0d. per gallon, the 
 latter 28s. 4d.; to which, if we add the expence of 
 cartage, servants' wages, waste of strength, &c. 
 (but without any allowance for the trifling charges 
 of advertising, &c.) as at 8e?. per gallon, it renders 
 the average cost 28*. Qd. and 29s. per gallon. 
 The prices at which this is sold by the equitable 
 Wine Merchant to his private customers is at an 
 advance of from 3s. to 4s. 6d. per gallon ; on which 
 he has to give six, twelve, and, in many instances, 
 
 since, when in town, I sent my servant to purchase a bottle of 
 brandy and rum, at one of our largest Advertising and Placarding 
 Gin-shops, by way of experiment. On trying their relative 
 strength, I found the Rum thirty-two per cent, underproof, the 
 Brandy I supposed about twenty-eight or thirty per cent, under; 
 but as the latter had been sweetened, which prevents its being 
 proved by the hydrometer, I was obliged to decide by comparing 
 its apparent strength with that of the Rum. The taste of both, 
 however, was so filled up with artificial heat and flavor, that it 
 would be a difficult matter for any one unacquainted with the se- 
 cret to tell, by the palate, whether or no, either of them were not 
 considerably stronger.
 
 19 
 
 eighteen months credit ; and, to those of his con- 
 nexion, who (as dealers) have to sell it again, at an 
 advance only of from Is. to Is. 6d. per gallon ; but, 
 when it is considered, that, with regard to the latter, 
 very heavy bad debts* are frequently incurred, I 
 do not think, at the very outside, the profits realized 
 average more than from five to six and a half per 
 cent, per annum ; and the only reason which I can 
 conceive for the sale of an article (attended with so 
 small and disproportionate a profit for so great a 
 risk of loss) being continued, by those who sell it 
 genuine, is, that, it frequently becomes the means of 
 introducing the sale of other commodities, to which 
 a greater remuneration is attached ; in short, it is 
 what is usually denominated in the trade, a leading 
 article. 
 
 Having thus, however, shown what the cost of 
 the article is, to supply it of fair arid genuine quality, 
 (the correctness of which must be known to several, 
 and may be easily ascertained by all my readers,) 
 I will now proceed to give some examples, which 
 will disclose to the public the golden secret, by 
 which the placarding dealers are enabled to sell, as 
 Brandy at 24s. per gallon, that, which costs about 
 twenty per cent. more. 
 
 * In many concerns I know it to be a fact, owing to the enormous 
 advance of money for duty on Brandy, which renders a bad debt 
 with this article extremely heavy, that, so far from gaining any per 
 centage at all, upon a calculation of the profits and loss for a twelve- 
 month, the loss has exceeded the amount of profits as much as ten 
 and fifteen per cent, and, in some instances, considerably more.
 
 20 
 
 Example 1 : 
 
 To make up 100 gallons of ' full proof Brandy ,' to cost 
 
 only 21 s. 
 50 gals, of fine Cognac Brandy, 
 
 proof . . at 
 
 31 gals, of Old Neutral-flavor- 
 
 ed Rum, previously reduced 
 
 to proof . . . - 
 
 9 gals, of Old Neutral-flavor- 
 
 ed Rum, twenty-five per 
 
 cent, overproof, including 
 
 overproof . . 
 
 10 gals, of British Brandy, 
 
 twenty-two per cent, under- 
 
 proof . . . 
 
 s. d. 
 29 per gal. 
 
 13 - 
 
 16 6 
 
 L. s. d. 
 72 10 
 
 20 3 
 
 786 
 
 13 6 
 
 100 gals, of full proof Brandy sA 21*. 
 To the above must be added 
 1 pint of Colouring. 
 | pint of Cherry-laurel water. 
 i pint of Extract of Almond Cake. 
 
 6 15 
 
 106 16 6 
 
 100)2136(21 
 gals. 200 per gal 
 
 136 
 100 
 
 36 
 12 
 
 100)438(4rf. 
 400 
 
 38 
 4 
 
 100)1 52 (f 
 100 
 
 52 
 
 Thus, then, by the process I have described, may 
 be produced 100 gallons of * Full Proof Brandy,' 
 which will bear to be tried by the hydrometer, and 
 the cost of which is, but 21s. &\d. per gallon, 
 imperial measure. When this quantity shall have
 
 21 
 
 been reduced to seventeen per cent, underproof 
 (the lowest strength at which government allows 
 it to be sold), by the addition of seventeen gallons 
 of water, with a larger proportion of Colouring, 
 Extract of Almond Cake, Cherry-laurel Water, 
 and Extract of Capsicums, it will have cost only 
 18*. 3d. per gallon, as the following will show. 
 Example 2 : 
 
 100 gals, of proof made-up Brandy, as in Example L. s. d. 
 the first, at II. Is. 4d. T 5 <& . . . 106 16 6 
 17 gals, of Water. 20 
 
 (| pint of Colouring \ 117)2136(18. 3> 
 
 I \ pintofEx. of Almond Cake I g als - 117 per gal. 
 
 *U pintof Cherry-laurel Water f additionaK 966 
 
 1| pintofEx. of Capsicums j 936 
 
 117 gals, of Brandy, seventeen per cent. ui- 30 
 
 , at 18*. 3<f.a per gallon. 12 
 
 * The quantity of the article increased by 1 1 7) 366 (3f/. 
 these ingred'ients pays their expense. 351 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 60 
 
 The reader will also perceive, by the calculation in 
 example the first, that, by increasing or diminish- 
 ing the different proportions of either one or the 
 other of the articles used, a corresponding difference 
 in the cost price, may be obtained accordingly. 
 
 Thus, by adding twenty or twenty-five gallons 
 of water, instead of seventeen, with a still greater 
 proportion of the flavoring ingredients mentioned, 
 to the 100 gallons of proof made-up Brandy, we 
 have the prices reduced to (8*. and 17s. Id. per- 
 
 c
 
 22 
 
 gallon. As, however, it can only be done to the 
 extent of the first example, by the largest of our 
 Gin-shop Placarders, without the danger of disco- 
 very, it is by others, whose consumption is not so 
 extensive, usually made up in quantities of ten, 
 fifteen, or twenty gallons, as opportunity serves. 
 
 And here it may very naturally be inquired, how 
 this can be done without the Exciseman (whose 
 duty it is to prevent such imposition) being able to 
 detect it. I will propose a short case, which I 
 think will fully explain why, there are so few 
 chances of his doing so; and the rarity of such 
 detections is notorious. l A Retail and Wholesale 
 Licensed Dealer's stock is taken on the eighteenth 
 of November: we will suppose it then to con- 
 sist of, 
 
 Neutral-flavor- 
 
 British Brandy, 
 22 per cent, 
 underproof, 
 40 gallons. 
 
 The officer does not again survey him for a 
 period of twenty-eight days ; and he has sold du- 
 ring the intermediate time, in quantities of less* 
 than two gallons, as follows : 
 
 
 
 Neutral-flavor- 
 
 Proof Cognac 
 Brandy, 
 110 gallons. 
 
 Proof neutral- 
 flavored Rum, 
 100 gallons. 
 
 ed Rum, 25 per 
 cent, under- 
 proof, 
 
 50 gallons. 
 
 
 
 ed Rum, 25 per 
 
 British Brandy, 
 
 Proof Cognac 
 
 Proof neutral- 
 
 cent, over- 
 
 22 per cent. 
 
 Brandy, 
 
 flavored Rum, 
 
 proof, 
 
 underproof, 
 
 60 gallons. 
 
 35 gallons. 
 
 20 gallons. 
 
 3 gallons. 
 
 * For any quantity which a Gin-shop-keeper, who is possessed 
 of a wholesale license, may send out from his stock of two gallons
 
 23 
 
 These several amounts, deducted from his stock 
 on the eighteenth of November, leave the amount 
 of what his stock should be, when his Exciseman 
 surveys it. For example, 
 
 
 
 
 Neutral-fla- 
 
 British 
 
 
 
 Proof neu- 
 
 vored ;Rum, 
 
 Brandy, 22 
 
 Stock as taken N 
 on the 18th of 
 
 (Proof Cog- 
 nac Brandy, 
 
 tral-flavored 
 Rum, 
 
 25 per cent, 
 overproof, 
 
 per cent, un- 
 derproof, 
 
 Nov. when the 
 officer last sur- 
 
 110 gals. 
 
 100 gals. 
 
 50 gals. 
 
 40 gals. 
 
 veyed. / 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sold or sent^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 out in the in- 
 termediate 
 
 ^ 60 ditto 
 
 3d ditto 
 
 20 ditto 
 
 3 ditto 
 
 time. j 
 Amount of v 
 
 
 
 
 
 what the stock 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 should be when 
 ins officer sur- 
 
 I 50 gals.* 
 
 65 gals.f 
 
 30 gals. + 
 
 37 gals. 
 
 veys it. 
 
 "~ 
 
 *^ 
 
 """^ 
 
 *""""""* 
 
 Previously however to his officer's visit, he adds, 
 as in example first, 
 
 t 31 gallons of Proof neutral-flavored Rum, 
 \ 9 gallons of neutral-flavored Rum, 25 per cent, overproof, 
 and 10 gallons of British Brandy, 22 per cent, underproof, 
 
 to his remaining 
 * 50 gallons of Proof Cognac Brandy, 
 
 or upwards, lie is obliged to draw a permit, the same as those who 
 are exclusively wholesale dealers; and, if he had to account for 
 the decreases occasioned by what he disposes of in smaller quan- 
 tities, or, if the system were so altered as to admit of some such 
 check, he would be equally as much restricted from adulterating, as 
 those are who are only wholesale dealers. As, however, any account 
 of the kind cannot be kept under the present regulation, and the 
 Gin-shop-keeper is constantly diminishing his stock over his retail 
 bar, it does not in the least affect his means of adulterating any 
 article he pleases, as he is still able to do it, to within a very little 
 (for the sake of appearances) of what he has sold in quantities of 
 less than two gallons; or, in other words, to nearly the extent of such 
 
 c 2
 
 24 
 
 Thus rendering his stock as consisting 1 of 
 
 Proof made-up 
 
 
 Neutral flavor- 
 
 British Brandy, 
 
 Brandy, but ta- 
 
 Proof neutral- 
 
 ed Rum, 25 per 
 
 22 per cent. 
 
 ken as Cognac, 
 
 flavored Rum, 
 
 cent overproof, 
 
 underproof, 
 
 100 gals.* 
 
 34 gals.f 
 
 21 gals.* 
 
 27 gals. 
 
 * This, we per- 
 
 t This, by look- 
 
 t The same may 
 
 This, we see, 
 
 ceive, should be 
 
 ing at the account 
 
 be said of this as of 
 
 should be thirty - 
 
 only fifty gallons, 
 
 of what the stock 
 
 the proof Rum. 
 
 seven gallons. Our 
 
 according to the de- 
 
 of proof Rum ought 
 
 The dealer has ta- 
 
 retailer, however. 
 
 crease occasioned 
 
 properly to be, we 
 
 ken nine gallons to 
 
 having occasion to 
 
 by what has been 
 
 see, should appear 
 
 assist him in ma- 
 
 take ten gallons to 
 
 sold ; yet as the ad- 
 
 as sixty-five gal- 
 
 nufacturing his 
 
 add to his Cognac 
 
 dition of the above 
 
 lons. Thus, at the 
 
 Brandy, conse- 
 
 Brandy, thus les- 
 
 articles, though 
 
 same time, the pro- 
 
 quently making the 
 
 sens his stock of it 
 
 rendering the re- 
 
 per decrease of 
 
 quantity hehas sold 
 
 that quantity, and 
 
 tailer's stock as 
 
 thirty-five gallons 
 
 appear as twenty- 
 
 causes the amount 
 
 one hundred gallons 
 
 (the quantity the 
 
 nine gallons in- 
 
 of what he has sold 
 
 instead of fifty, still 
 
 dealer has sold) is 
 
 stead of twenty, and 
 
 of it to appear as 
 
 enables him to re- 
 
 altered to sixty-six 
 
 altering his stock, 
 
 thirteen gallons in- 
 
 tain a decrease of 
 
 gallons, by his hav- 
 
 which should be 
 
 stead of three gal- 
 
 ten gallons from his 
 
 ing taken thirty- one 
 
 thirty gallons, to 
 
 lons only. The of- 
 
 last stock, for in- 
 
 gallons more of the 
 
 twenty-one gallons 
 
 ficer supposes he 
 
 stance, 
 
 same Rum to trans- 
 
 only. 
 
 has sold eighteen 
 
 gals. 
 
 form into Brandy. 
 
 
 gallons, and, as it 
 
 Last stock 110 
 
 
 
 is not part of his 
 
 Present stock 100 
 
 
 
 duty to require an 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 account of the de- 
 
 Decrease . 10 
 
 
 
 creases (however 
 
 mm ^^ 
 
 
 
 disproportionate), 
 
 He has thus ma- 
 
 
 
 overlooking its im- 
 
 naged to introduce, 
 
 
 
 possibility under 
 
 without the fear of 
 
 
 
 the present system, 
 
 detection, fifty gal- 
 
 
 
 its correctness is 
 
 lons of manu- 
 
 
 
 never questioned. 
 
 factured Brandy, 
 
 
 
 
 which, when ex- 
 
 
 
 
 hausted, he can 
 
 
 
 
 again make up as 
 
 
 
 
 circumstances per- 
 
 
 
 
 mit. 
 
 
 
 
 The Exciseman attends, and takes this as the 
 
 Dealer's stock; he finds there is no increase in any of 
 
 decreases in his stock, as are not accounted for, by the permits he has 
 drawn. In the case above stated, in order to render it plainer to 
 my readers, I have supposed, that, no quantity requiring a permit, 
 has been sold or sent from the stock.
 
 25 
 
 the articles since his last visit; concludes it is 
 all right; and, without any possible means on his 
 part to prove it otherwise, it is passed as correct. 
 
 Thus then we see, that, even without any diminu- 
 tion of strength, the opportunities which a Gin- 
 shop Advertiser has of adulterating his Brandy, 
 are so great, that to do so, is neither a matter of 
 much difficulty, nor attended with any great risk 
 of detection. 
 
 In making up low Brandies for what is termed 
 the bar, or, as the Retailers themselves express it, 
 * the glass and bottle trade,' * the best judges 
 invariably sweeten them ; not only in order to 
 conceal the strength, but, by the fullness it imparts 
 to the palate, to prevent a discovery of the 
 etceteras, used in their composition. 
 
 It is necessary also, that, I should explain, that 
 whenever sweets, such as British Brandy Bitters, 
 British Cherry Brandy, Sugar, &c. have been mix- 
 ed with Brandy, its strength cannot be proved by 
 the hydrometer. But, as the Dealer, by a late 
 regulation, has to keep the per centages of the 
 strengths of his Brandy and other Spirits marked 
 on each of the casks, which contain any Spirituous 
 Liquors, and he takes care, that the strengths, shall 
 
 * For the information of those who may be unacquainted with the 
 meaning of these terms I must explain to them, that the ' glass trade 
 refers to that class of consumers entitled dram-drinkers, the 'bottle 
 trade' to those customers who apply for Spirits and Wine in the 
 separate quantities of pint, quart, gallon, or upwards.
 
 26 
 
 not appear as below the standard prescribed by Act 
 of Parliament, from the time it would otherwise 
 consume, it is only in the event of an information, 
 or when the Exciseman has any very great sus- 
 picion, that he makes a trial of such strengths, by the 
 hydrometer ; or if, from any suspected spirit having 
 been unlawfully sweetened, he can obtain no satis- 
 factory result by that instrument, of ascertaining its 
 real strength by distillation; which is the only pro- 
 cess, under the circumstances I have mentioned, by 
 which it can be truly discovered. Should the officer 
 be able to find that a Spirit has been sweetened, 
 which has not been admitted by him to be either a 
 British or a Foreign Compound (independently of a 
 penalty, should he find it of an illegal strength^, he 
 can enforce one, which, by a late Act, has become 
 attached to all Traders who are detected of effecting 
 this alteration, with such Spirituous Liquors as do 
 not rank under the head of Compounds. The com- 
 paratively small quantities, however, of Brandy , &c. 
 which the Retailers manage to have on hand, made 
 up in a sweetened form, or of an illegal strength, 
 when the officer surveys their stock, render any 
 detection extremely rare. 
 
 The method therefore, of making up sixty-three 
 gallons of Brandy without the possibility of its 
 strength being proved by the hydrometer, and to 
 answer the end, of concealing in some degree 
 such of the ingredients as would otherwise be 
 
 o 
 
 too powerful, is given in the following
 
 27 
 
 Example 3 : 
 
 25 gals, of proof Cognac s. d. L. s. d. 
 
 Brandy . . . at 28 6 per gal. 35 12 6 
 7 gals, of proof Bor- 
 
 deaux Brandy . - 25 6 - 8 18 6 
 
 10 gals, of proof Neutral- 
 
 flavored Rum . .- 13 - 6 10 
 1 gal. of British Brandy 
 Bitters, 22 per cent. 
 
 underproof . .-96 - 096 
 1 gal. of British Cherry 
 Brandy, 22 per cent. 
 
 underproof : . -- 10 - 10 
 5 gals, of British Bran- 
 dy, 22 per cent, un- 
 
 derproof . . - 13 6 - 376 
 
 14 gals, of Water. _ 
 
 63 gals, of Brandy, at 1 7s. Id. H per 55 8 
 
 gal. (strength, if distilled, about 
 
 22 per cent, underproof.) 63)1108(17. 7 
 
 gals. 63 per gal. 
 
 To this must be added 478 
 8 Ibs. of Lump* Sugar, or Candy- 
 
 Foote. 37 
 
 \ pint of Colouring. ** 
 i pint of Extract of Almond 63)444(7 
 
 Cake. 441 
 J pint of Extract of Grains of 
 
 Paradise. 4 
 
 This, is of capital quality, but may be deterior- 
 ated as much as Is. 5d. per gallon, by introducing 
 proof Rectified Spirits, at 12*. Qd. per gallon, in lieu 
 of the Bordeaux Brandy. Another very profit- 
 able source, is also obtained, even from the very
 
 28 
 
 staves of the Brandy puncheons. As soon as the 
 Brandy is racked from the puncheons, four or 
 five gallons of water are immediately put in, and 
 allowed to remain three or four weeks, at the 
 expiration of which time, they have imbibed a 
 considerable portion of spirit; this material is 
 called Cowe, and is chiefly used in the adulteration 
 of Cape and other Wines; but, as that will be 
 treated of when I arrive at another part of my 
 subject, I shall now proceed to the article of 
 
 RUM. 
 
 * 
 
 And here, I may observe, that, with regard to 
 the opportunities for its adulteration, the same 
 facilities exist as in Brandy, the same impositions 
 are practised in point of strength, and the same 
 means possessed and resorted to of evading the no- 
 tice of the Exciseman. I should, however, inform 
 my readers, that, as sweets are but seldom or never 
 used in sufficient quantities with Rum (owing to 
 the peculiar flavor of that Spirit) to prevent a trial 
 of its strength by the hydrometer, and which con- 
 sequently renders it more liable to the surveillance 
 of the Excise Officer, the Advertising Cheap Dealers, 
 as some alternative, are therefore in the habit of 
 keeping on hand a less stock of it, of an illegal 
 strength, though no diminution takes place in the 
 quantity sold, as the punishment entailed on the of- 
 fence (and the same with Brandy, Rum, Hollands,
 
 29 
 
 tyc.) barely amounts to a restriction; the utmost 
 penalty extending- no further than the forfeiture 
 of whatever Spirits there may be in stock, of 
 an illegal strength, together, with the casks or 
 vessels containing the same.* I may here also 
 add, that to prevent this, requires but little in- 
 genuity or foresight, as Gin-shop-keepers, and par- 
 ticularly those on a large scale, are generally aware 
 of the time their stock is to be taken, a few hours 
 before the officer pays his visit ;f and they have, 
 therefore, nothing more to do (if they think he 
 suspects them) than to pour into those casks, con- 
 
 * 30 Geo. 3, c. 37, sec. 31. No distiller, rectifier, corn- 
 pounder, or dealer, shall serve, or send out, any foreign Spirits of a 
 lower strength than that of one in six under hydrometer proof, ac- 
 cording to Clark's hydrometer,* nor have in his possession any 
 foreign Spirit, mixed together, except Cherry or Raspberry 
 Brandy, of lower strength than as aforesaid, upon pain of such 
 Spirits being forfeited; and such Spirits, with the casks or vessels 
 containing the same, may be seized by any Officer of Excise. 
 
 t The periods now appointed for the surveying of Dealers' stocks 
 are once in every twenty-eight days; but occasionally what is 
 termed a check stock is taken, which generally happens about 
 seven days before or after the regular visit has been paid ; conse- 
 quently, there is but little difficulty (except in cases of strong sus- 
 picion) of ascertaining nearly the precise time; or, in the event of 
 a surprise, as the dealer has generally a few minutes to spare 
 (which is all that is requisite) whilst the Exciseman is examining 
 and entering the permits of such goods as have been received into 
 stock since the last survey, the vigilance of that officer, to 
 whom no blame can be attached, and which, considering the nu- 
 merous duties he has to perform, is exemplary in the extreme, is 
 altogether baffled, 
 
 Seventeen per cent, underproof, according to Sykes's hydrometer.
 
 taining what Spirits they have of an illegal 
 strength, the proper quantity of the same Spirit, 
 at proof, to cause the strength to ascend to within 
 the standard prescribed by Government. 
 
 The impositions practised with Rum, generally 
 consist in purchasing the low-priced Leeward 
 Island Ruins, and by artificial means, such as the 
 use of the following articles, vending it as fine old 
 Jamaica Rum of peculiar softness and flavor 
 
 Ale, Porter, Shrub, 
 
 Extract of Grace Root, 
 
 Cherry-laurel Water, 
 
 Extract of Grains of Paradise, or Capsicums. 
 
 Another way is, by adulterating low-priced Ja- 
 maica Rums, by the admixture of Rectified Spi- 
 rits of Wine and Leeward Island Rum, together 
 with whatever is necessary of the flavoring ingre- 
 dients I have named, to improve and render it 
 saleable. 
 
 Leeward Island Rums* are but seldom brought 
 to this country at a higher rate of strength, than 
 eight or ten per cent, overproof. 
 
 The prices at which they may generally be 
 bought are from 1*. 3d. and 1*. 9d. to 2*. per 
 gallon ; the duty is at 8$. Qd. per gallon, which is 
 
 * It should be observed, that Leeward Island Rums, and the 
 generality of low-priced Jamaica Rums, are of so coarse and rank 
 a nature, as to render them almost unsaleable, unless, altered in 
 their flavors by artificial means, or blended with others of a better 
 description.
 
 charged as well on the overproof; the expenses 
 may be reckoned at 3d. per gallon. An example, 
 therefore, of the cost at proof of 100 gallons of 
 Leeward Island Rum at ten per cent, overproof, 
 and examples also of the various prices to which it 
 may be further reduced, are given as follows : 
 
 Example 1 
 
 100 Gallons of Lee- s. d. L. s. d. 
 
 ward Island Rum, at 1 9 per gal. 8 15 
 
 Duty on 100 gals. - 8 6 - , 42 10 
 *10 Gals, of overproof- 8 6 - 450 
 
 Expenses on 100 
 
 gals. ..... 03 - 1 5 
 
 * For 
 
 10 gals, of 
 
 overproof, 
 
 wate S r a are HO Gallons of proof Rum, to cost) 56 15 
 
 put into the / 10s. 3|rf. T 3 y per gallon . A 20 
 
 cask, which I - 
 
 thus makes 110)1135(10.3f t \ 
 
 up . . / gals. 110 per gal. 
 
 35 
 
 110)420(3 
 330 
 
 ~90~ 
 4 
 
 110)360(J 
 330 
 
 ~30
 
 32 
 
 Example 2 
 
 To reduce 55 gallons of the proof Rum in the preceding example, 
 at 10$. 3Jd. j^f per gallon, to cost 9*. 5d. per gallon ; 
 
 strength about 10 per cent, underproof. 
 55 gals, proof Leeward s. d, L. s. d. 
 
 Island Rum, at . .10 3| i% per gal. 28 7 6 
 1 gal. Porter ... 2 020 
 
 \ gal. Shrub ... 9 046 
 
 4f gals. Water. 
 
 | pint Colouring \ Quantity 28 14 (T 
 
 \ pint Grace Root \ increased 20 
 
 f pint Extract of /pays their 61)574(9. 4| fjper gal. 
 
 Capsicums . / expense. gals. 549 say 9*. 5d. 
 
 61 gals. Rum, at 9*. 5cf. per gal- 25 
 
 Ion; strength about 10 per * 2 
 
 cent, underproof. 61)300(4 
 
 244 
 
 56 
 4 
 
 183
 
 33 
 
 Example 3 
 
 To reduce 55 gallons of the proof Rum in Example 1, at 
 10*. 3|rf. 7^,% per gallon, to cost 8s. 8|rf. per gallon ; strength, 
 17 per cent, underproof, the lowest at which Government allows 
 of its sale. 
 
 55 gals, proof Leeward s. d. L,. $. d. 
 
 Island Rum, at . .10 3$ 3f per gal. 28 7 6 
 
 1 gal. Porter ... 2 020 
 
 I gal. Ale .... 4 020 
 
 \ gal. Shrub ... 9 046 
 
 9 gals. Water. 
 
 J pint Colouring \ 
 | pint Orace Root I Quantity 
 f- pint Cherry-lau- \increased 
 rel Water . . f pays their 
 \ pint Extract off expense* 
 
 Capsicums . / 
 
 66 gals. Rum, at 8*. 8|rf. per gal- 
 lon ; strength, 17 per cent, 
 underproof. 
 
 28 16 
 20 
 
 
 
 66)576(8. 8f| per gal. 
 gals. 528 say Ss. S}d. 
 
 48 P er S aK 
 12 
 
 66)576(8 
 
 528 
 
 48 
 4 
 
 66)192(| 
 132 
 
 60
 
 34 
 
 Or if fifty-five gallons of the proof Rum in Ex- 
 ample 1st be further reduced to twenty-five and 
 thirty-two per cent, underproof, (the former strength 
 referred to in page 17, and the latter in note * 
 page 17), by the addition of the proper proportion 
 of water, and a larger proportion of the flavoring 
 materials and Extract of Capsicums, the prices 
 would be 7*. lid. and 7s. 2d. per gallon. 
 
 The terms on which Rums are advertised for 
 ' Ready money only, 1 are 10s. 4d. ; 10s. Sd. ; 1 Is. 
 Qd. ; 12s. ; and 13s. 4d. per gallon (at the two 
 latter prices, the strength of the article to be 
 ' proof '); and I scarcely need, therefore, pursue my 
 calculations for the purpose of showing my readers, 
 the various and enormous profits obtained on Rum, 
 by our cheap Placarders and Advertisers, and the 
 impositions practised on the health and purse of the 
 public, under the plausible pretext that * Ready 
 money only* enables the modest Dealer to dispose 
 of these fine articles at prices so low. In offering, 
 however, one more example of a mode of making 
 up a Rum of * exceedingly Jine flavor? I wish to 
 observe, that a restriction exists, only, as regards 
 the admixture-of the Rectified Spirits I have al- 
 luded to, in my remarks on Brandy, but that all 
 Rums of whatever quality, may be, what is termed, 
 blended together. Hence it is, that a Wholesale 
 Spirit Advertiser, is unable to make use of the ar- 
 ticle of British Rectified Spirits with Rum, be-
 
 35 
 
 cause, if he ventures to draw a permit, in order to 
 account for a decrease, and does not send the 
 goods,* he is liable to a heavy penalty if dis- 
 covered; or, should he succeed in obtaining a suf- 
 ficient decrease to answer his purpose, he is as 
 equally liable to have the corresponding- increase 
 occasioned in his Rum, not only forfeited, but 
 also accompanied with a similar heavy penalty ;f 
 whereas, the Gin-shop-keeper, who can send out 
 whatever he pleases from his retail bar, without 
 having to render any account, may use it with im- 
 punity; and, as he does not apply it any further than 
 as the decreases on his Rum will allow, he is above 
 all fear of detection. J 
 
 * 21 Geo. 3, c. 55, sec. 21. Dealers taking out a permit, and 
 not sending away the goods, nor returning the permit within the 
 time of its limitation, forfeit trehle the value of the goods j and the 
 goods also, if on taking stock there shall not appear a sufficient 
 decrease to answer such permit. 
 
 f 21 Geo. 3, c. 55, sec. 29. Dealers having an increase in 
 their stocks, over and above what the officer found on the last pre- 
 ceding survey, such decrease is to he deemed as brought in with- 
 out permits or certificates, and an equal quantity is to be forfeited, 
 with the penalty of 50/. 
 
 t To what extent he may occasionally make use of the article 
 of British Rectified Spirits, I refer my readers to the case I have 
 cited, showing the facility and security with which Brandy may 
 be manufactured, see page 23.
 
 36 
 
 Example 4 
 
 To make up as fine Jamaica Rum, 101 gallons, to cost Us. per 
 gallon ; the strength, proof, 
 
 30 gals. Jamaica Rum, at 5. d. L- s. d. 
 
 25 per cent.overproof, at 2 6 per gal. 3 15 
 
 Duty on 30 gals. . - 8 6 12 15 
 
 Duty on 1\ gals, of 
 the overproof (propor- 
 tion on 30 gals, at 25 
 per cent, overproof) . 86 3 39 
 
 30 gals. Leeward Island 
 Rum, at 8 per cent. 
 
 overproof 19 2 12 6 
 
 Duty on 30 gals. .-86 12 15 
 
 Duty on 2 gals, of 
 overproof (the propor- 
 tion on 30 gals, at 8 
 per cent, overproof) . - 86 1 13 
 
 20 gals. Rectified Spirits 
 56 per cent, overproof, 
 
 including the overproof 19 6 19 10 
 
 21 gals. Water, being the 55 12 6 
 proportion requisite to 
 
 reduce the whole to 101)1112(11 ^-.per gal. 
 
 proof gals. 101 say 11$. per gal. 
 
 1 pint colouring . .\ Quantity 102 
 
 f pint Ex. Grace Root \increased 101 
 
 | pint Cherry-laurel /pays their 1 
 
 Water . . ./expense. 12 
 
 101 gals, of/nc Proof Rum, at 1 1*. 18 
 
 per gallon. 
 
 72
 
 37 
 
 This, reduced to the relative strengths of ten, 
 seventeen, twenty-five, and thirty-two per cent, un- 
 derproof, with the proportionate quantities of Ale 
 or Porter jto soften it, and Extract of Grains of 
 Paradise, or Capsicums, to give it the appearance 
 of a greater strength than it possesses, costs 10*. ; 
 9*. 5d. ; 8s. 9|rf. ; and 8s. 4d. per gallon ; and my 
 Readers may, therefore, (when they consider, be- 
 sides, that the incalculable expenses of advertising, 
 &c. are not reckoned in any of the foregoing ex- 
 amples,) form some notion of the extent, to which 
 the tempting opportunities of adulteration are pur- 
 sued with this article, and the profits which such 
 practices enable the unfair Dealer to realize at the 
 placarded prices. 
 
 Without enlarging, however, on the frauds prac- 
 tised with Hollands, by the admixture of a pro- 
 portion of two-thirds of Rectified Spirits to one of 
 Hollands,* and as well also with Compounds, such 
 as Peppermint, Cloves, fyc. we now arrive at 
 that grand climacteric of all adulteration in the ar- 
 ticle of Spirits, viz. 
 
 BRITISH GIN. 
 
 It will no doubt appear an extraordinary cir- 
 cumstance, to such of my Readers as are unac- 
 quainted with the nature of the concerns, at which 
 
 * Rectified Spirits costs about 125. 6rf. per gallon, if reduced to 
 proof. Hollands pays the same duty as Brandy, and is usually to 
 
 D
 
 38 
 
 so large a proportion of this compound is consumed, 
 when / state the fact (well known to all persons 
 connected with the trade) that sums, of from one 
 thousand, to three thousand pounds, and, where 
 Wine trades have been attached, as much as from 
 three to six thousand pounds have been given, for 
 the good-wills of Gin-shops, possessed of only 
 twenty-one years' leases, depending solely on the 
 will of the magistrate for their licenses being re- 
 newed, and held at rents from 151. to 2001. per an- 
 num. But I have little doubt, that, all surprise will 
 cease, when, in addition to the profitable adulter- 
 ations which, as I have shown, are practised with 
 Brandy and Rum, I have exposed those also, 
 which are carried on with this article, and that of 
 Wine. 
 
 be purchased (if by the puncheon) at about 25s. Gd. per gallon, 
 full proof strength, thus 
 
 20 gals, of Rectified s. d. L. s. d. 
 
 Spirits, at proof, at 12 6 per gal. 12 10 
 10 gals, of Hollands, 
 
 at proof . . - 25 6 12 15 
 
 makes up 30 gallons of proof Hollands, 25 5 
 
 to cost only 16*. lOd. per %Q 
 
 gallon, being 5*. 8d. per 30)505(16 10 per 
 
 gallon less than the duty S als - 3Q S aL 
 
 on genuine Hollands ; 
 
 and which, if further re- lov 
 
 duced only to 10 per 
 
 cent, underproof, costs 
 
 but 15s. 3fd. per gallon. 30(300(10 
 
 300 
 

 
 39 
 
 In order, however, to convey a sufficiently clear 
 notion of the impositions to which this Spirit is pe- 
 culiarly exposed, I must premise a few observa- 
 tions on its nature, and on the regulations it is sub- 
 jected to, from the earliest period of its manufac- 
 ture. 
 
 The Malt Distiller (who belongs of a different 
 class to the Rectifier, and whose business, it must be 
 borne in mind, is altogether distinct and separate) 
 is the person, who first commences the manufac- 
 ture of Gin. It is most commonly made from 
 malt, and consists in placing a wash, prepared from 
 the grain, in a state of fermentation, to deprive it 
 of all saccharine matter, and after it has gone 
 through this process, in distilling it into what is 
 usually denominated Malt Spirit, or Whiskey. 
 
 The enormous duties, however, with which the 
 trade of Malt Distillers is chargeable, they being 
 compelled to distill above a certain quantity of Spi- 
 rit of immense bulk at a time, and the large capital 
 which is required, rendering it possible only for a 
 few individuals of great wealth to engage in this 
 business, the natural consequence has been, to 
 produce a monopoly* and community of interests 
 
 * This monopoly of the Malt Distillers attracted the attention 
 of Government, and, as some restriction, they have permitted the 
 distillation of Gin, from Rum, or Scotch or Irish Whiskey ; but 
 as the Malt Distillers have reduced their prices to the same level, 
 and their article is generally preferred, the terms at which it is sold, 
 though lower, continue as invariable as previously to the re- 
 striction. Another circumstance, which also confines it as a rno- 
 
 D 2
 
 40 
 
 amongst them ; to preserve which, from the invasion 
 of competitors they have introduced the practice 
 of fixing- a stated price for their goods, (from 
 which none of them depart,) and of periodically, or 
 according to circumstances, raising and lowering 
 those prices, to the whole of the trade of Rec- 
 tifiers indiscriminately. 
 
 This Spirit is sold by the Malt Distiller, at a 
 certain definite overproof strength, to the Recti- 
 fier, who, by a second distillation, deprives it of its 
 essential oil; and then again, by a third process 
 through his still, (with the addition of Juniper Ber- 
 ries and other ingredients,) he converts it into the 
 article called British Gin. 
 
 In consequence of this system, the Rectifiers, into 
 whose hands the Spirit next passes, and who make 
 it into Gin, are obliged to adopt the same course ; 
 and, therefore, set that price to their Gin-shop cus- 
 tomers, and others of the trade, which will yield 
 them a fair profit, and at which no competitors can 
 undersell them, except at a partial loss. 
 
 nopoly, is this: no sooner does any Rectifier attempt to undersell 
 the stated price which has been given out, than he is immediately 
 refused any further supply of Spirit from the Malt Distiller; and 
 should he evade the obstacle thus thrown in his way, by manufac- 
 turing his Gin from Scotch or Irish Whiskey, or Rum, the whole of 
 the trade immediately lower their prices to a standard considerably 
 below that at which he is selling, (however great the sacrifice 
 may be at which they do it,) until he is compelled, from the pros- 
 pect of either losing the whole of his connexion, or suffering him- 
 self to be totally ruined, to give up the contest, and return to the 
 old price.
 
 41 
 
 There are two strengths only, at which the Rec- 
 tifier sends this article of unsweetened Gin from his 
 stock ; these are seventeen, and twenty-two per 
 cent, underproof; and, as any variation from them 
 would only occasion a proportionate alteration in 
 price, none is ever made. The cause, which pro- 
 duced the seeming inconsistency, of having these 
 two strengths in particular, was as follows: 
 The first Act of Parliament relating to this sub- 
 ject, provided, that British Brandy, Gin, and all 
 liquors under the head of Compounds, should not 
 exceed in strength twenty-two per cent, underproof, 
 and a penalty was inflicted on persons selling it 
 at any higher rate of strength. Subsequently, 
 however, another Act was passed, which altered the 
 limitation to seventeen per cent, underproof; thus, 
 making the article of unsweetened Gin saleable, at 
 a degree five per cent, stronger. But, the traders 
 generally having become accustomed to buy their 
 Gin at twenty-two per cent, underproof, and the 
 penalty attaching only on the Spirit being sold at 
 a higher per centage than laid down in the last 
 Act, both strengths are retained, in order to suit the 
 choice of the purchaser, though by far the greater 
 proportion, is still disposed of, at twenty-two per 
 cent, underproof. 
 
 With Gin, after it is sweetened, no restriction, 
 as to any particular strength, continues to prevail, 
 as it then constitutes, what is termed Cordial, 
 or sweetened Gin, it cannot be tried by the hy-
 
 42 
 
 drometer; and is sold by the Rectifier, Wholesale 
 Dealer, or Gin-shop-keeper, at any reduced rate of 
 strength, under the two just mentioned. 
 
 But, as to purchase it in this state is, the~most 
 unprofitable, as well to the Wholesale, as to the 
 Retail Dealer ; it is, with scarcely any exception, 
 bought by them at either of the strengths, seven- 
 teen or twenty-two per cent, underproof, and they 
 afterwards sweeten or make it up themselves. 
 
 The present fixed and stated cash price, after all 
 deductions, to every description of trade consumers, 
 indiscriminately, is for the former strength 10*. 
 per gallon, and for the latter strength 9*. 4d. per 
 gallon ; and my Readers must, therefore, when they 
 see Gin advertised at 5*. 9d. \ 6*. 6d. ; 7*. 6d. ; 
 and 9*. 4d. per gallon, be naturally somewhat 
 curious, to learn the extent of reduction, and the 
 means by which that reduction is effected, so as to 
 render it either saleable or drinkable (saying no- 
 thing of its wholesomeness) at such prices, and at the 
 same time to enable the advertiser to derive a clear 
 average cash profit of from 1*. 6d. to 2*.* per gallon. 
 
 To clear up this mystery is my task, and the 
 first point, to which I shall direct attention is the 
 flavor, that most essential particular in the art of 
 making up Gin ; after which, I will present a scale, 
 showing the different proportions of aqua puree 
 (pure water) necessary to reduce 100 gallons of 
 
 * This, I can vouch for as a fact, having myself distilled a por- 
 tion of what is termed Gin at the prices quoted.
 
 43 
 
 Gin to the prices at which it is advertised and pla- 
 carded, and the further reduction requisite to clear 
 the profit of 1*. 6d. per gallon. 
 
 The list of ingredients used in flavoring or 
 making up the Gin as advertised, is somewhat 
 startling, not less for its length than for the articles 
 of which it is composed. They are as follows : 
 
 Oil of Vitriol, Sulphuric JEther, 
 
 Oil of Turpentine, Extract of Grace Root, 
 
 Oil of Juniper, Extract of Angelica Root, 
 
 Oil of Cassia, Extract of Capsicums, or 
 
 Oil of Carraways, Extract of Grains of Paradise, 
 
 Oil of Almonds, Water, Sugar, &c. 
 
 With respect to the first mentioned of these ar- 
 ticles, viz. Oil of Vitriol, it is perhaps the most 
 important of the whole list, as, from the pungency 
 it imparts to the Spirit, it mainly assists in keeping 
 up the appearance of strength, when applied to 
 the nose, as the Extracts of Capsicums or of Grains 
 of Paradise do when applied to the taste. Hence 
 it is, that, in smelling a bottle containing Gin, in 
 the flavoring of which Oil of Pitriol has been em- 
 ployed, the pungency is so great, immediately after 
 the bung has been taken out, as almost to make 
 the eyes water, which is never the case, even with 
 Gin at its highest strength, previously to its being 
 sweetened. 
 
 The quantities in which it is applied are various, 
 according to the judgment of those, who have occa- 
 sion to require its aid, though I have every reason 
 to believe it is used in the greatest proportion to
 
 44 
 
 those Gins, which are reduced to the lowest 
 strengths and prices, and by those persons, who are 
 considered the most knowing. 
 
 Before, however, it is mixed with the other fla- 
 voring ingredients, it is altered in its form by a 
 process, in which either Sour Cyder or Lime Water 
 is employed ; and under which alteration it is, I be- 
 lieve, added in the proportions of from one to four 
 pints to 100 gallons-of Gin. 
 
 As regards Oil of Turpentine and Sulphuric 
 JEther, ("the Turpentine having been changed 
 from its oily state, by means of Lime Water, the 
 Whites of Eggs, or Spirits of Wine}, they are in- 
 cluded in the measure of about one eighth of a pint 
 of the former, and half a pint of the latter, (with 
 the other materials used for the flavor,) for 100 
 gallons, and chiefly, for the purpose of mingling 
 and concealing the Oil of Vitriol, in the made up 
 Gin, and giving it what is termed * a delicate 
 flavor!* . 
 
 The Extracts of Grace and Angelica Roots are 
 used, for imparting a fullness of body and flavor 
 to that vast proportion of the Compound, which is 
 merely water; and, by their relative bitters, keep- 
 ing the taste, as nearly as possible, to that of the Gin 
 previously to any reduction. They are applied with 
 the other ingredients in quantities of about a quart 
 of each, to the 100 gallons of manufactured gin. 
 
 The remaining Oils, named in the list, require 
 the nicest discrimination in their application; and 
 that their forms be altered by the same means, as
 
 45 
 
 are employed with Oil of Turpentine. They are 
 all exceedingly powerful, and the proportions made 
 use of, with the rest of the materials, (previously to 
 their having 1 undergone any change,) seldom ex- 
 ceed a quarter of an ounce of the Oils of Cassia, 
 Carraways, and Almonds; and of the Oil of Juni- 
 per, one ounce. 
 
 With the nature and properties of the Extracts 
 of Capsicums, and Grains of Paradise, my Readers 
 are already acquainted. They are added, with 
 the other ingredients, to the 100 gallons of made 
 up Gin, (if reduced to the lowest price,) in quanti- 
 ties of about a quart of either. 
 
 That the proportions of the different ingredients 
 I have named, are varied according to the judg- 
 ments and tastes of the Advertising Wholesale 
 Dealer or Gin-shop-keeper, as well, as that, some- 
 times several articles are struck out altogether, or 
 their places supplied by others equally deleterious, 
 there can be little doubt ; but, that the materials 
 are as numerous, and used in as considerable quan- 
 tities, is proved beyond all question, by this 
 simple calculation : it requires forty-eight gal- 
 lons of water to reduce 100 gallons of Gin, pur- 
 chased at its cheapest rate, to one of the prices 
 at which it is advertised, (that at 6*. Qd. per gal- 
 lon,) and the still further addition of forty -four 
 gallons more of water (making a total of ninety- 
 two gallons), to allow of the profit of Is. 6d. per 
 gallon. 
 
 This alone must be conclusive to every mind,
 
 46 
 
 that practices, such as I have pointed out, do exist ; 
 and when it is considered that the evils consequent 
 upon them fall most heavily on the poorer classes 
 of society, no one will deny that this system calls 
 loudly for the interference of the Government. 
 The idle reply, that the weaker such a compound 
 as Gin is made, the less injury it is likely to work, 
 is no answer to such a case; because, although 
 strong 1 Spirits may be mischievous to the health 
 and morals of the lower classes, the drinking such 
 compositions as I have described must also be per- 
 nicious in the highest degree to the constitution 
 and comfort of the people ; and tends only to enrich 
 a class of the community, who have neither ho- 
 nesty nor usefulness enough, to entitle them to the 
 wealth they obtain. 
 
 In presenting my Readers with a scale, showing 
 the different proportions of water necessary to re- 
 duce 100 gallons of Gin, twenty-two per cent, un- 
 derproof, at 9*. 4d. per gallon, to the relative 
 prices at which it is advertised, viz. 9s. 4c?. ; 8*. ; 
 7*. (id. ; 6s. Qd. ; and 5*. 9d. per gallon, I should 
 premise that, although I have set the limit at that 
 quantity, for the sake of conciseness, the best 
 judges, or those whose consumption is the most con- 
 siderable, make it up in vats; and that the larger 
 the dimensions of the vat, the greater extent of re- 
 duction the Gin will bear, and the better is the fic- 
 titious flavor concealed. The quantity of lump 
 sugar used to 100 gallons of Gin, varies from 
 twenty-five to thirty-five pounds, according to the
 
 
 
 47 
 
 taste of the maker up ; but, for the sake of accu- 
 racy, 1 have reckoned thirty pounds in the follow- 
 ing- scale, as being the proper proportion, and I 
 have considered the ingredients to pay their own 
 
 expence. 
 
 A SCALE, 
 
 Showing the quantity of Water necessary to reduce 100 gallons of 
 Gin, at 22 per cent, underproof, to the various Prices at which 
 it is Advertised and Placarded, and the still further reduction 
 requisite to allow the Profits as stated. 
 
 L. *. d. 
 
 100 gallons of Gin at 9s. 4d. .... 46 13 4 
 
 30 pounds of Lump Sugar, at lid. . . . 176 
 
 Flavoring, &c. pays itself in the quantity increased OOP 
 
 48 10 
 
 If reduced, to cost 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Total quan- 
 
 
 Prices 
 as adver- 
 tised. 
 
 Profit 
 derived 
 extra. 
 
 
 Quantity of 
 Water re- 
 quired to 100 
 gals, of Gin 
 to reduce it 
 to the price 
 advertised. 
 
 Further 
 quantity of 
 Water re- 
 quired to the 
 100 gals, of 
 Gin to allow 
 of the profit. 
 
 tity of Water 
 requisite to 
 reduce the 
 100 gals, of 
 Gin to the 
 profit per gal. 
 below the 
 price adver- 
 
 Per cen- 
 tum of 
 
 strength 
 under- 
 proof. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 tised. 
 
 
 per gal. 
 
 per gal. 
 
 
 gals. 
 
 qts. 
 
 gals. 
 
 qts. 
 
 gals. 
 
 qts. 
 
 per cent. 
 
 . d. 
 
 a. d. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 9 4 
 
 "I 
 
 Takes 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 28 
 
 
 
 31 
 
 
 
 40| 
 
 8 
 
 1 6 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 27 
 
 3 
 
 47 
 
 3 
 
 47 
 
 7 6 
 
 1 6 
 
 
 28 
 
 
 
 32 
 
 
 
 60 
 
 
 
 51 
 
 7 
 
 1 6 
 
 
 37 
 
 1 
 
 37 
 
 2 
 
 74 
 
 3 
 
 55 
 
 6 6 
 
 \ 6 
 
 
 47 
 
 3 
 
 44 
 
 1 
 
 92 
 
 
 
 59 
 
 5 9 
 
 1 
 
 * 
 
 67 
 
 
 
 35 
 
 2 
 
 102 
 
 2 
 
 61* 
 
 In this scale, it will be seen, that, even to reduce 
 the hundred gallons of Gin, so as to be saleable at 
 
 * On distilling a gallon of each of the Gins advertised, at these 
 prices, through a small experimental still, I found, on calculation,
 
 48 
 
 one of the higher prices at which it is advertised, 
 (viz. at 8*. per gallon), it takes twenty gallons of 
 water; and, to allow the profit of Is. Gd. per gal- 
 lon, the further addition of twenty-seven gallons and 
 three quarts more, of the same liquid, causing, a 
 total of forty-seven gallons and three quarts of 
 water; and making up (within one quart) one 
 hundred, and forty-eight gallons of Gin, to sell at 
 8*. per gallon, attended with a cash profit of Is. Qd. 
 per gallon. 
 
 The extensive adulteration requisite to render 
 such a compound capable of being drank, as Gin, 
 must be so obvious, that I consider it superfluous to 
 add more on this part of the subject. 
 
 By an Act of Parliament, all individuals whose 
 incomes, convenience, or any other circumstance, 
 enables them only to purchase their spirits in quan- 
 tities of less than two gallons, are obliged to resort 
 to the places at which so much adulteration is 
 practised; for, should they apply to a Wholesale 
 Dealer, and manage to obtain the quantity they re- 
 quire of what is good and wholesome, if it be under 
 
 the relative profits considerably more, than stated on some of the 
 prices in this scale : for the sake, however, of having no mis- 
 statement, 1 have supposed the whole, only as laid down ; and, that, 
 I am correct in my assertion the fact will sufficiently prove, that 
 some Officers of Excise have, on one or two occasions, made 
 seizures of Gin at as low a strength as 92 per cent, underproof, 
 concluding it to be illegal ; but, which was afterwards returned, 
 as there is no law to limit the strength of this compound, in point 
 of weakness.
 
 49 
 
 two gallons, he is open to an information from the 
 purchaser for a considerable period ; and, on con- 
 viction, to a heavy penalty. The single fact that 
 the quantity of genuine Spirits which passes into 
 the hands of Gin-shop-keepers,* previously to any 
 adulteration or reduction, amounts to a proportion 
 of more than two-thirds of the whole of what is sold 
 in the united kingdom, ought to point out the ne- 
 cessity of some restriction, which can only he ren- 
 dered effectual by placing the trade of the Whole- 
 sale Wine and Spirit Merchant on a more equal 
 footing with that of the Retail Dealer possessed of 
 a Wholesale License. And, if I may be allowed to 
 hazard an opinion respecting the latter, I would 
 observe, that, let the limitation with regard to the 
 smallest quantity of Spirit, which a WholesaleWine 
 and Spirit Merchant should be permitted to sell, be 
 fixed at one quart or a gallonf (instead of two 
 gallons, the present extent), let the strictest in- 
 quisition be instituted, to prevent any greater op- 
 portunity for adulteration or imposition, than he 
 possesses at present, and cause him to pay for this 
 additional privilege in the same ratio as the Gin- 
 shop-keeper does for the advantage of a Wholesale 
 License, and a considerable check, both to the 
 
 * This is supposed to include as well all under the head of 
 Public-house and Tavern-keepers. 
 
 f It may be as well to remark here, that, with regard to Wine, 
 the Wholesale Wine Merchant's license enables him to sell it in 
 quantities as small as a single bottle.
 
 50 
 
 system, and its consequences, would at once be 
 raised ; for, as the respectable Wine Merchant, 
 who depends more on the quality of his article, 
 than on any high sounding pretensions, would then 
 have as customers for Spirits, such of his connection 
 as, through necessity (from their being con- 
 sumers of quantities under two gallons), are now 
 obliged to resort to the Gin-shops, and the chance 
 of the quality of his goods bringing to him many 
 others, who have found out the nature of the trash 
 they have been used to purchase, it would at once, 
 create a competition of quality, instead of price ; 
 which would soon reduce the cheap placarders and 
 advertisers of Spirits, to be as few in number, as 
 there are now of cheap wine venders who are not 
 Gin-shop-keepers. 
 
 The Public would be enabled to purchase a 
 bottle, half-dozen, or dozen, as their convenience 
 suited, of those whose livelihood (as they do not 
 pretend to sell at less than cost price) depends on 
 their disposing solely, of that which is of good qua- 
 lity ; nor would the Dealers, thus placed on a fair 
 level with Gin-shop-keepers, have that class for 
 customers, who are dram-drinkers (and who pay 
 but little attention, to what they pour down their 
 throats, so long, as their palates are satisfied) to 
 render such Dealers at all indifferent as to whether 
 the description of what they vend be good or bad. 
 The proposed alteration, would not afford them any 
 increased facilities for adulteration, that might not
 
 51 
 
 be prevented, by regulations, that could be provided 
 for the purpose ; and how any measure of the kind, 
 to accomplish so desirable an end, could be consi- 
 dered an act of injustice to the Retailer, appears 
 to me difficult to conceive; whilst he is allowed 
 independently of his other business, and in the 
 possession of a Wholesale License, (for which he 
 pays but 10/. per annum) to enjoy advantages, 
 infinitely superior to those of the Wholesale Dealer, 
 inasmuch, as from the means afforded him, by his Re- 
 tail department, for adulterating the whole of his 
 Wines and Spirits, to any extent he pleases, he is 
 enabled, completely to undersell the fair and respect- 
 able trader. 1 leave this suggestion to the judg- 
 ments of my Readers, and shall be more than satis- 
 fied, if the representation I have made, may engage 
 the attention of that Government whose duty it is, 
 and whose inclination it is professed to be, to place 
 every branch of trade on the broadest and most 
 equitable basis, and whose interest, not less than its 
 duty and its inclination, are involved in the present 
 case ; because, if some such alteration was once 
 adopted, a much greater proportion of the genuine 
 Spirit, which pays the regular duty, would necessarily 
 be sold ; and some of that money, which at present 
 goes exclusively into the pockets of the Advertising 
 Gin-shop-keeper, would then find its way into the 
 coffers of the State. 
 
 Another method, however, whereby the Public 
 might perhaps be still better preserved, from the
 
 52 
 
 consequences of these deceptive practices, than offer- 
 ed by that which I have already proposed, deserves 
 particular mention ; as it is one which has received 
 the sanction of the Legislature, and would in all 
 probability, have been carried into effect before this 
 time, but for the machinations and co-operation of 
 a powerful body of men, to the detriment of the 
 Wholesale Dealers \ but than whom (speaking of 
 the latter), as a class, who ought to unite in every 
 effort for the maintenance of their rights against 
 the encroachments of the Gin-shop-keepers pos- 
 sessed of Wholesale Licenses, none evince greater 
 supineness or want of energy ; and who, instead of 
 publicly exposing, as they ought to do, the base 
 frauds which are practised (and which, owing to 
 the facilities afforded to the Retailers, are even 
 sanctioned by the Legislature under the present 
 system), are suffering their very means of sub- 
 sistence, to be gradually and imperceptibly under- 
 mined and destroyed. A remarkable instance of 
 this indifference to their interest, on the part of the 
 Wholesale Dealers, was shown on the passing of 
 the Distillery Act lately framed, and now in force. 
 It was contemplated to introduce into that Act a 
 clause, by which all persons possessed of Retail 
 Licenses should not be allowed to vend goods, 
 under a Wholesale License, on the same premises 
 on which he retailed them ; but, that whatever Re- 
 tailerwas desirous of retaining both Licenses, should 
 be placed on a par with other Wholesale Dealers,
 
 53 
 
 by being compelled to conduct the wholesale de- 
 partment of his business, separately, and at a certain 
 distance from the place at which his retail trade 
 was carried on ; thus, not a little evidencing the 
 suspicions entertained by Government on the very 
 subject I have been discussing. The Gin-shop- 
 keepers, however, alive to this annihilation of their 
 means of deceiving the public any longer, by a de- 
 putation to the Chancellor of the Exchequer, and 
 by representations (the importance of which, to 
 their own individual interests, must be pretty clear 
 to my Readers), procured the obliteration of this 
 obnoxious clause, unanswered by the proper and cor- 
 rect counter-statements, which ought, and could 
 have been made, on the part of the respectable 
 Wine and Spirit Merchant, and which, there can 
 be little doubt, would have had the effect of causing 
 the completion of the Act, in its original form. 
 
 The following explanation, however, which 
 places the case on its own merits, and as it really 
 stands, will enable my Readers to draw their own 
 conclusions on the points I have submitted to them, 
 with respect to this portion of my subject, and may 
 not perhaps, altogether, be considered uninteresting. 
 
 The present mode by which a Wholesale Spirit 
 Dealer's stock is taken, is such, as not only to ren- 
 der it impossible for him to adulterate his goods, or 
 by any means to defraud his customers, but even to 
 place needless difficulties in the way of his business, 
 though nothing more be desired by him, than to 
 
 E
 
 54 
 
 conduct it on a fair and equitable basis, whether 
 with regard to the Revenue or the Public ; whilst 
 the person who is possessed of a Wholesale License, 
 united with his Retail one, is enabled to impose 
 on both with impunity ; his wholesale stock being 
 taken as connected with his retail trade, and on a 
 principle totally different, to that arranged for those 
 who belong to the other class. 
 
 To enable my Readers thoroughly to compre- 
 hend this difference, it may be necessary to explain 
 it in a technical way, as more clearly elucidating 
 the extensive latitude afforded, where the whole- 
 sale and retail businesses are conducted on one, and 
 the same premises. 
 
 Of a Wholesale Dealer's stock (who is exclu- 
 sively such), an account is taken in what is techni- 
 cally termed Proof Spirit t which is thus: The 
 separate per centages of spirit contained in his 
 Brandy, Rum, Gin, &c. is ascertained by means of 
 the hydrometer, and is equalized so as to appear a 
 whole quantity, under each particular head, ac- 
 cording to its sort \ whatever is brought into stock 
 of spirits, the permit must either specify the per 
 centage of strength of the article, and the quantity, 
 or only the total quantum of Proof Spirits, which is 
 contained in the bulk of the goods protected by it; 
 and in sending out Spirits, the Dealer is obliged 
 also to express, on his request note, what per centage 
 of strength the liquor is of, before he can obtain the 
 permit. On the Exciseman's attending to take the
 
 55 
 
 stock, he receives all the permits by which the 
 Dealer has had in Spirits, since the last survey, 
 notes down the total quantity of Proof Spirits they 
 denote, under the proper distinctions, to which is 
 added the amount of Proof Spirits, of each kind, 
 which formed the balance of the last stock. The 
 quantity of Spirits, whether Brandy, Rum, &c. 
 contained in the various casks, and their different 
 strengths, is then ascertained ; and, together with 
 the amount of what has been sent out (of which 
 the officer has a previous account from the vouch- 
 ers, or request notes, left at the Permit Office by 
 the Dealer for all the permits he has had occasion 
 to draw, since the last time of taking stock, and 
 which must be so left, before he can obtain any of 
 such permits), reduced, so as to exhibit the total 
 quantum of Proof Spirits, of each description. 
 Should this, on being deducted from the total, 
 formed by the last balance, and what has been had 
 into stock since added together, show any excess, 
 (6 Geo. 4, c. 80, sec. 109,) ' Such excess shall be 
 deemed and taken to be spirits illegally received, 
 and a quantity of spirits of the like kind shall and 
 may be seized out of any part of the stock of such 
 Wholesale Dealer,* by any Officer or Officers of 
 Excise ; and the Wholesale Dealer in whose stock, 
 custody, or possession, such excess shall be found, 
 shall forfeit and lose the sum of twenty shillings 
 
 * This Act also includes Rectifiers and Compounders. 
 E 2
 
 56 
 
 per gallon, for every gallon of such excess: and if 
 there be any decrease in such slock, not duly ac- 
 counted for by the spirits sent out with permit, and 
 exceeding Jive per centum on the balance or stock 
 left on hand at the last preceding account, together 
 with the quantity since lawfully received, the 
 Wholesale Dealer in whose stock such decrease is 
 found shall forfeit and lose the sum of twenty shil- 
 lings per gallon, for every gallon of such defi- 
 ciency. 1 
 
 Thus we see that a Wholesale Dealer's chance of 
 defrauding the public, with respect to deteriorated 
 Spirits, is a very slender one indeed; because, 
 should he either wilfully, or in error, state the 
 strengths on his permits, for the goods he may send 
 out, at a higher rate than is correct, an increase to 
 the same amount, as occasioned by such errors, is 
 sure to be found in his stock, by the officer on the 
 next survey ; or, if at a less rate, or any accident 
 occurs, by which a portion of Spirit is lost, a de- 
 crease would appear in the same manner, for 
 which, we perceive, on reference to the Act, the 
 dealer is as liable to punishment as though he had 
 obtained an increase by receiving into his stock a 
 quantity of smuggled goods. 
 
 A Retailer's stock (although a wholesale business 
 may be supplied from it, and conducted on one, and 
 the same premises), receives no difference in the 
 mode of its survey from that of a person who is 
 entirely or exclusively a retail dealer, The techni-
 
 57 
 
 cal term by which this method of taking stock is 
 distinguished from that adopted for the wholesale 
 dealer, is its being surveyed according to the 
 bulk of gallons, without reference to the relative 
 strengths of the Spirits, so long as they are 
 not below the legal standard, nor is any further 
 account taken of the strengths of the Spirits, in a 
 Retail and Wholesale Licensed Dealer's stock, un- 
 der this regulation, than may be said to amount 
 to a nominal preventive, for his having any very 
 large quantity on hand, of an illegal strength, when 
 the officer pays his visit. 
 
 The Spirits a Retailer may receive into stock, 
 are taken according to the bulk or number of 
 gallons contained in the cask, or casks, permitted 
 to him, and whatever the strength may be, whether 
 underproof or overproof, he is allowed credit to re- 
 duce or keep it, at any standard he pleases, not 
 exceeding seventeen per centum underproof, if it 
 be foreign Spirits, such as Brandy, Rum, &c. but 
 if British, such as Gin, or Compounds, such as 
 Noyeau, Shrub, &c. to any reduced rate of 
 strength, that may be necessary to meet his views. 
 
 For any kind of Spirits, he may have occasion 
 to permit out, he is obliged to state on the request 
 note, for the permit, (and which is again tran- 
 scribed on the latter by the Excise perm it- writer) 
 the strength of such Spirits, but for no other pur- 
 pose, than to render the goods seizable, if they 
 should be stopped by any officer, and the strength
 
 58 
 
 stated by the Dealer, and that which the liquor 
 really possesses, be found not to agree. 
 
 The Retailer, on having his stock surveyed, is 
 only liable, if, upon ascertaining the number of 
 gallons in stock, and what has been sent out by 
 permit, there should appear any increase beyond 
 his last balance, and what has been had in- since, 
 added together, or to have seized on account of 
 being deficient in strength, only such Spirits, as 
 are found to be so, when the officer entertains a 
 suspicion, and chooses to make an examination ;* 
 and with respect to having any increase discovered, 
 as the Retail and Wholesale trades, are both sup- 
 plied from one and the same source, and a constant 
 sale is taking place over the Retail bar, there is 
 but little danger of the officer, meeting with such 
 a result at the time of his visit, (nor indeed at any 
 other), as the Dealer always manages to retain a 
 small decrease from his last stock, (for the sake of 
 appearances), on whatever article he may have de- 
 teriorated, and to render himself always safe, he 
 never makes an addition to any of his goods, in 
 the way of adulteration, until he is afforded suf- 
 ficient room, in such goods, (by what has been re- 
 tailed of them), to admit of that addition, without 
 exceeding his credit. 
 
 But as nothing can better illustrate, or more 
 
 * How easily this is to be avoided, although the offence be 
 committed to a considerable extent, may be gathered from the 
 commencement of my remarks on Rum, and from note f (page 2'J.)
 
 59 
 
 truly explain the small chance of detection, which 
 exists under the present system, and the manner 
 in which a Retailer, possessed of a Wholesale Li- 
 cense, is enabled to carry on his impositions, to so 
 great an extent, and with so much impunity, than 
 the case I have cited, in the adulterations of 
 Brandy, (page 23,) to that I refer my Readers, 
 with the certainty of its opening their eyes, to the 
 means by which our Gin-shop-keepers are able to 
 placard cheap Spirits, at such extremely low 
 prices, and, also, that it must bear convincing tes- 
 timony, to several of the most important facts, I 
 have hitherto advanced. 
 
 In thus, however, apparently advocating 1 the 
 cause of those fair dealers, who are injured in their 
 sale of Spirits, by the cheap prices, and specious 
 pretences, of the Advertising and Placarding Gin- 
 shop-keeper, and in publicly exposing the means, 
 by which alone the different impositions are ef- 
 fected, situated as I am, it is a matter of little im- 
 portance to me, personally, whether or not my 
 motives may be appreciated, by the individuals 
 whose mal-practises I have attacked. The value 
 of my observations, must depend on the truth of 
 the facts, and the force of the arguments, I have 
 adduced. That abuses do exist, that these abuses 
 originate, in the undue and mischievous facility 
 afforded to Gin-shop-keepers, and other Retail 
 Dealers, I think I have proved, and I apprehend it 
 is no less satisfactorily made out, that some alter-
 
 60 
 
 ation should be made in the system, for the sake 
 of the fair Trader, for the benefit of the revenue, 
 and for the protection of the public health. I feel 
 it, however, due to many respectable and worthy 
 Gin-shop-keepers, who are neither cheap sellers 
 nor advertisers, who vend at a moderate price, and 
 who, by fairly earned and equitable profits, main- 
 tain themselves, and their families, to state, that 
 although the facts, with regard to the facilities for 
 adulterating, apply to the whole of their class, as 
 a body without a single reservation, yet that the 
 circumstance of those facilities, being rendered 
 subservient to base purposes, will rest more 
 strongly on the individuals, who are ready to bear 
 down, all of the same trade, whether belonging to 
 their own community, or not who live by fair 
 dealing, or who happen, unfortunately, to be less 
 knowing than themselves; and, before I conclude 
 this division of my subject, I cannot but bear tes- 
 timony from my personal experience, and know- 
 ledge, of the exceptions, which the methods re- 
 sorted to, in the conduct of business, by the more 
 honourable individuals, to whom I have alluded, 
 form, to the profligate, and dishonest contrivances, 
 of their placarding rivals. 
 
 1 cannot but expect, that this Treatise, will excite 
 the rancour of the advertisers, and be construed to 
 be, as indeed it in some measure is, an attack upon 
 them. This consideration is one which is far 
 from discouraging, because it is by the outcry they
 
 61 
 
 may make, that the Public will be enabled to esti- 
 mate their pretensions ; they who have most reason 
 to fear exposure, will naturally cry out the loudest, 
 or, as in the old adage 
 
 ' The worst spoke in the wheel will crack first.' 
 Leaving, however, the facts to speak for them- 
 selves, and my Readers to draw their own conclu- 
 sions from those facts, I shall now proceed to the 
 second, though not less important, part of this 
 Treatise.
 
 
 II. 
 
 WINE. 
 
 " One glasse of drink, I got by chance, 
 '"Twas Claret when it was in France, 
 
 "But now from it moche wider: 
 "I think a man might make as good 
 "With green crabbes, bojTd in Brazil wood, 
 
 " And half a pinte of Cjjder." 
 
 An Old Song. 
 
 USED in moderation, and as dispensing 1 by its 
 cheering influence, an additional zest to several of 
 our social enjoyments, Wine may be said to form 
 one of the blessings of life. That it constitutes a 
 luxury, to which more consideration is attached 
 than to almost any other whatever, is sufficiently ob- 
 vious to need any extraneous remarks to prove it, 
 so, nor do I think it by any means less clear, that, 
 in the existing state of society, it is an article 
 which has almost become a necessary of life.* The 
 object, however, of this Treatise, is not to point 
 out the benefits which the rational use of Wine 
 confers on mankind, but by guarding the Public 
 against the pernicious adulterations which are prac- 
 
 X <Vv'* *& ^ > 
 
 - , 

 
 63 
 
 tised upon it, to prevent that, which may and ought 
 to be a blessing 1 , from being converted into a curse. 
 That so widely diffused, and in such general de- 
 mand, as Wine is, its abuses, therefore, deserve to 
 be exposed, and a stop put to its being rendered 
 baneful, without misapplication, no one can doubt, 
 nor, that an individual thoroughly acquainted with 
 the subject, is fulfilling more than his duty to the 
 community, when he holds up to public reproba- 
 tion, that class of persons, who, not content with 
 the gains which fair dealing in Wine, in its 
 genuine state, would yield them, seek to reap 
 large and disproportionate profit, by the most base 
 and fraudulent means, whereby they are not only 
 undermining the character and livelihood of the 
 honest Tradesman, in respect to his exacting un- 
 necessarily high prices, but they are also cheating 
 the pockets of those, who are so easily gulled, as 
 to put faith in their pretences. 
 
 To discharge this, which I conceive to be a duty, 
 is now my intention, and I have every expectation 
 that I can place sufficient, both of facts and argu- 
 ments, on this head, before my Readers, to convince 
 all those, who are too nice to drink a compound of 
 Red Cape, Benecarlo, Fiyuera, and Inferior Port 
 Wines, mixed together, under the name of * genu- 
 ine Old Port,' or a mixture of Cape, Brandy Cowe, 
 and Coarse Brown Skerry, with the colour ex- 
 tracted by means of Lamb's Blood, for * Fine Pale 
 Amontillado Sherry. 1
 
 64 
 
 To persons, indifferent as to what they place on 
 their tables for Wine, so long as the taste some- 
 what resembles the denomination it bears, fact and 
 reasoning would be alike uselessly addressed. 
 
 In the first place, as regards the facilities for the 
 adulteration of Wine, they are, with little differ- 
 ence, possessed as equally by the Wholesale 
 Dealers, as by the Gin-shop cheap Wine venders, 
 unless where the retail consumption of the latter, 
 or what they sell in glasses, is so large, as to give 
 them, in this respect, a great advantage. The 
 Wholesale Wine Merchant's License, enables him 
 to dispose of Wine in quantities, as small as a 
 single bottle, and does not enforce his drawing a 
 permit, but for quantities amounting to more than 
 one dozen, the additional opportunity, therefore, 
 which the Gin-shop-keepers have, and which must 
 account for their forming the majority amongst 
 our Placarders and Advertisers of cheap Wine, 
 arises from what they retail by the glass, or in 
 measures less than a bottle, but which conse- 
 quently, can only be of any very great benefit, 
 where much is sold in that way. In other respects, 
 he is subject to precisely the same regulations, as 
 to drawing a permit, &c. as the Wholesale Dealer. 
 
 It may, however, be proper to remark here, that 
 although upon the whole, both classes are open to 
 facilities, almost as available to the one as the 
 other, yet, comparatively, but little chance of adul- 
 terating their goods, exists, with those who carry
 
 65 
 
 on a fair business, even if inclined to do so, as the 
 Advertising and Placarding Gin-shop-keepers, and 
 Wholesale Dealers, by their wonderfully cheap 
 prices and pompous assertions, are sure to attract 
 that description of persons as purchasers, who 
 form the principal means of enabling them to adul- 
 terate with the least possible risk of detection, that 
 is to say, such as buy only small quantities at a 
 time, and with whom quality is quite a secondary 
 consideration, so long as the price is low. 
 
 With respect to the measures adopted to evade 
 discovery from the Excise Officers, the evidence in 
 the trial alluded to, at the commencement of this 
 Treatise,* will best explain some of the artifices 
 
 * From the Times Journal of December 1, 1826. 
 In the Court of Exchequer, November 30, 1826. The Attorney- 
 General versus Oldfield. 
 
 The information consisted of four counts, the first for procuring 
 a permit, under pretence of transferring a certain quantity of Wine 
 to a Mr. Buckby it would appear by the evidence, that Mr. 
 Buckby was not the purchaser of any such quantity of Wine, and 
 that the permit had not been returned to the Excise Office. 
 
 The second count was of a similar nature : in this, the supposed 
 purchaser was Mrs. Oldfield, the mother of the defendant. 
 
 The third count arose out of the preceding ones : it complained 
 of these permits not being returned to the Excise Office. 
 
 The fourth count alleged the adulteration of certain Wines, the 
 mixing of Cape with Sherry/ and selling the mixture as pure 
 Sherry. 
 
 The first witnesses which the Attorney-General called, were 
 several persons, connected with the Excise, who proved that two 
 permits, in the names of Buckby and Mrs. Oldfield, were obtained, 
 and never returned to the Excise Office. 
 
 Mr. Buckby, examined by the Attorney-General. He (Mr. B.)
 
 66 
 
 employed. On referring to the note containing 
 the abstract of this trial, it will be seen, that, al- 
 though the flavoring and mixing of Cape Wine 
 with a portion of Shorry, to make the mixture sell 
 for genuine Sherry, was not brought home to the 
 
 knew the defendant Oldfield ; had frequently bought small quan- 
 tities of Wine of him, but never, at any one time, so large a quan- 
 tity as to require a permit. He never bought, altogether, so much 
 Wine of him as 288 gallons. He never saw the permit for 288 
 gallons of Wine, purporting to have been bought by him of the 
 defendant. 
 
 Mr. Tooke, examined by the Attorney-General. He (Tooke) 
 knew the defendant; these permits were obtained with the know- 
 ledge of the defendant, and for the purpose of accounting, for 
 the disappearance of a large quantity of Cape Wine, which was 
 mixed with Sherry, and sold under the name of the latter. It 
 was not sufficient to mix Cape and Sherry alone; any one would 
 detect the imposture. The mixture thus formed, must be doc- 
 tored, before it could be made to pass for Sherry. The mode of 
 doctoring, was by mixing with the Wine, a composition, made of 
 Bitter and Sweet Almonds, Powdered Oyster Shells, and Chalk; 
 the Bitter Almonds gave the Wine a rough taste, which the 
 Sweet Almonds, in some degree, softened; the Powdered O \ster 
 Shells, and Chalk, refined the mixture. There was a large vat, 
 in which the mixture was made. The vat was erected for tiiis 
 purpose; the mixture and doctoring were both made with the de- 
 fendant's knowledge and approbation. Oldfield was then in the 
 King's Bench Prison; witness had frequent conversations with the 
 defendant, in prison, and carried him samples of the Wine thus 
 mixed ; the ingredients for doctoring the Wine were bought by wit- 
 ness ; the bills then produced in court, were tire druggist's bills 
 for the same ; witness was remunerated for these ingredients, by 
 Porter, Oldfield's clerk. The defendant, Oldfield, carried on the 
 business of a Wie Merchant, under the name of the Westminster 
 Wine Company. There were two mixtures of this Wine made in 
 June 1823. Oldfield went to prison in February 1822. There were
 
 67 
 
 defendant Oldfield, yet, the drawing a fictitious 
 permit, in order to account for the disproportionate 
 decrease, which would be occasioned in his Cape 
 
 mixtures of (his nature before Oldfield went to prison ; Oldfield 
 assisted at these mixtures before he went to prison. Cape Wine 
 was worth about 1*. 6d. per bottle, Sherry 3s. 6d. 
 
 The following witnesses were called for the defence : 
 
 William Porter, examined by Mr. Lawes. Was requested by 
 Tooke, to write the request note for Buckby's permit; never saw 
 OldfielA mix wines. 
 
 The same witness examined by the Attorney-General. He 
 was a clerk, and kept the accounts; never paid Tooke for Almonds 
 and Oyster Shells; did pay him for a bottle of stuff called flavor, 
 which he afterwards heard contained such things; the flavor was 
 put into the Wine. 
 
 By Mr. Baron Garrow. Recollects Wine being transferred to 
 Mrs. Oldfield, but could not tell how much. He charged Mr. 
 Oldfield with the flavor for which he had paid Tooke; entered in 
 the cash book so much paid for flavor. 
 
 George Bedell, Samuel Mole, and James Garven, servants of 
 Oldfield, were called, and swore that they never saw any mixing 
 of Wines going on. 
 
 The Attorney-General replied, and in the course of his observa- 
 tions, said he would not press for the penalties for not returning 
 the permit. The Jury then retired for about a quarter of an hour, 
 and, upon their coming into court again, returned a verdict for the 
 crown, on one permit that of Mr. Buckby's. 
 
 In this note is contained the whole of the trial, as it appeared 
 in the ' Times,' with the omission of the speeches of the counsel, 
 and the charge of Judge Garrow to the Jury ; likewise an examina- 
 tion-of Tooke, not for the purpose of controverting his statement 
 of facts, but to weaken his evidence by lowering his moral cha- 
 racter. 
 
 Had the Jury found Oldfield guilty on all the counts, the first 
 and second would have subjected him to a fine of 500/. each ; the 
 third count, consisting of two offences, for not returning the per- 
 mits 100/. each ; and the fourth count, for mixing the Wines, 300/.
 
 68 
 
 Wine, was clearly established to his conviction. 
 The way in which he had obtained room in his 
 Sherry, to admit so much Cape Wine, without an 
 increase appearing, must have been by his not 
 drawing permits for the quantities of Sherry, or 
 any other White Wines (not being French or 
 Cape) which he had occasion to send out, between 
 the period at which the Excise Officer had sur- 
 veyed his stock, and the time when the mixing 
 took place, together with the assistance afforded 
 him, as being an advertiser, by the quantities he 
 had sold under one dozen. 
 
 That this system of adulteration had been fre- 
 quently practised before, appeared also on the 
 trial; and it may readily be inferred therefrom, (not 
 to mention any thing of the extent to which it is 
 carried, by others, through the medium of vats, much 
 more capacious in size than those used by Oldfield,) 
 that the profits are sufficiently adequate to occasion 
 the risk of a casual detection, and penalty, of no 
 very great consequence, particularly, as there are 
 several ways known to the skilful, of preventing 
 its publicity ; or should any doubt exist, on that 
 which I have thus advanced, a further insight into 
 the subject, will, I think, easily remove it. 
 
 It may, perhaps, be said, that to allow of any 
 opportunity for carrying on the mixing of Wines, 
 (or at all events in such large quantities as by the 
 defendant Oldfield,) the exposure is too certain, 
 and the temptation of receiving half the penalty,
 
 69 
 
 attached to the offence, too strong for the persons, 
 who are ordinarily employed where such practises 
 are carried on, to withstand, without paying them 
 most exorbitant wages to purchase their secresy. 
 If my present limits would permit, I could detail 
 many plans by which these difficulties are to be 
 surmounted. The singular fact, however, that the 
 detection of this nefarious traffic was owing en- 
 tirely to the disclosures of an accomplice, who was 
 influenced by mo fives of revenge, and that the three 
 men, besides the clerk, employed in the business, and 
 on the premises, by Oldfield, swore in the course of 
 the trial, that they had never seen any mixing of 
 Wine whatever, going on, (although the fact had 
 then been clearly established in the preliminary 
 step to adulteration, of which he was convicted,) 
 will, I apprehend, be conclusive enough as to 
 there being no lack of means, in respect to the 
 finding of opportunities for adulterating, with- 
 out my perplexing my Readers with technical 
 statements. 
 
 In proceeding to give an account of the various 
 modes of adulterating Wine, and as a reason for 
 my rendering the proportions in the illustrative ex- 
 amples, relating to this part of the subject, on so 
 large a scale, it is perhaps requisite to premise, 
 that one of the grand secrets in the art of cheapen- 
 ing Wine, is by the vatting, or keeping a number 
 of large vats in the which to mix and adulterate 
 the different Wines.
 
 70 
 
 It is an old saying, * That good Wine needs no 
 bush ;' but when some of the uses to which these 
 vats are applied, are fairly explained and under- 
 stood, I think it will not be less obviously trite, 
 ' That good Wine needs no vat.' 
 
 The present plan of adulterating, and particu- 
 larly where the advertising concerns are large, is 
 by the aid of vats, which vary in their contents 
 from 800, to 1000, gallons each, and of which, to 
 describe fully the whole of the advantages derived 
 from them, would require much greater space, than 
 the limits of this work afford. To give my 
 Readers, however, some idea of their general 
 utility, it must be understood that they are of ex- 
 cellent service in enabling the cheap Wine vender 
 to adulterate to a greater extent, and more easily 
 to combine the different compositions, intended to 
 be introduced into them. The immense body of 
 Wine lying together, tends greatly to assimilate 
 the flavors, and more effectually to conceal from 
 discovery, any extraneous matter which may be 
 mixed in it. The Wine, by a judicious and va- 
 ried selection, is made to possess a roundness of fla- 
 vor, and to form a basis, as to body, sufficient to 
 admit of a great deal, which costs little or nothing, 
 and from their use, arises the numerous plausible 
 arguments which are brought forward, to justify 
 the appearance of such highly questionable reser- 
 voirs, by those advertisers who have them in their 
 possession ; but the dangerous purposes, to which
 
 71 
 
 they may be, and are applied, are quite sufficient 
 to deter every fair dealer (if only for the sake of 
 his credit), from resorting 1 to their aid, and to in- 
 duce every purchaser, decidedly to discountenance 
 their use. 
 
 That, inferior Wines might be improved in vats, 
 by being blended with good, if it was possible to 
 prevent even their being adulterated, there can be 
 but little doubt to those acquainted with the nature 
 of Wines in general; but, alas! no one except our 
 modern adulterators themselves, and the very 
 bung-holes of their vats, are acquainted with the 
 nature of all the different articles of which the 
 latter are made the receptacles. Brandy and Hum 
 Cowe, (the rinsings of the puncheons as soon as the 
 Spirit is taken from them,) slops of all descrip- 
 tions, Cape Wine, Cyder, Colouring, Sal Tartar, 
 with any thing else, which is, or is thought to be, 
 capable of forming a tolerable basis, or in any 
 other way useful in manufacturing a resemblance 
 of the particular denomination of Wine, intended 
 to be sold, are occasionally mixed together in 
 their capacious bodies, and discharged again as ge- 
 nuine Port or Sherry, according to whichever 
 Wine, the contents of the vat, have been made up 
 to represent. 
 
 On applying to a cheap Wine vender, possessed 
 of such highly advantageous and necessary utensils, 
 the first thing of which he speaks, is the wonder- 
 ful extent to which his Wines, although originally 
 
 F 2
 
 72 
 
 of the finest quality, are improved by lying to- 
 gether in so large a body ; the next, that his sell- 
 ing exclusively for ready money only, enables him 
 to part with his Wine at so low a price, and that 
 it scarcely affords him any profit at all. The 
 Wine tastes full to the palate, is of brilliant colour, 
 and if Port, the purchaser is assured (and with 
 truth, from obvious reasons which shall be shown 
 to my Readers,) that it will be quite crusted in 
 two or three months. These, and other like as- 
 surances, conclude with a gaurantee, that the 
 Wine is warranted to turn out as represented, and 
 that the cash, with all expenses, will be returned, 
 if it does not prove to do so; though, be it ob- 
 served, the seller cunningly manages to retain the 
 nine points of law in his own favour, (namely, 
 possession of the cashj leaving only the poor 
 remaining one to the purchaser, the value of 
 which, he may probably have to estimate to his 
 cost. The many quibbles, by which this bargain 
 is afterwards evaded, alone forcibly illustrates the 
 notorious remark once made by an individual be- 
 longing to this famous class of advertisers, ' That 
 a customer once, forms the extent of their ex- 
 pectations ;' or, in other words, * That the first 
 application of a person to purchase Wine of 
 them, is by their address ; that a second visit, from 
 the same party, and for a similar purpose, is by 
 good luck !' 
 
 From the 'flattering tale* thus told, and which
 
 73 
 
 I have but imperfectly described, the result is, that 
 the buyer is satisfied, concludes the purchase of 
 the Wine for which he has been treating 1 , and as 
 nothing else will do, pays down the cash for it ; 
 whilst the placarder, (who has palmed on him, a 
 spurious article for the genuine, the quality and 
 flavor of which, is, to the taste of a person ac- 
 quainted with the true quality of Wine, as unlike 
 those of the genuine article, as it is spurious in its 
 composition,) is all the time laughing in his sleeve, 
 at the credulity of a customer, who, while he 
 thinks he makes a bargain, is giving an impudent 
 knave, a cash profit of forty per cent, only because 
 the prices of his goods are twenty per cent, below 
 those of a respectable Wine Merchant. If any doubt 
 still remains, and further to prove the sum total 
 of that which I have stated, as to the excellence 
 and value of these vats, as a new contrivance for 
 gulling the Public, and defrauding the Revenue, 
 I need only refer to the placards and advertise- 
 ments of those who are known to have adopted the 
 vat system, and request my Readers to observe the 
 difference between the prices quoted by them, and 
 those, by others of their fraternity, who, although 
 they have the same advantages in respect to pur- 
 chasing, yet, having no vats, happen not to be pos- 
 sessed of the same valuable means, to enable them 
 to vend, on quite so low a scale as their more for- 
 tunate rivals. 
 
 An additional method, however, which I ought
 
 74 
 
 not to pass over without a few remarks, as forming 
 another source from whence a considerable profit 
 is derived, and by means of which, it will be seen 
 a tolerable degree of imposition can be practised, 
 is with respect to the size of bottles. From my 
 long connexion with the Wine Trade, I have ne- 
 cessarily been brought in contact, and become in- 
 timately acquainted, with many Bottle Merchants, 
 from whose information, coupled with my own 
 judgment and experience, I can state several facts 
 on this head, which have a near relation to the ex- 
 posures I have already made. The bottles, as mea- 
 sured off, by the workmen employed for the pur- 
 pose, consist of six various sizes ; but which, as 
 making no real difference, still retain their titles as 
 applying to the old measure. The terms by which 
 they are-known in the trade, are 
 
 Full Quarts, Small Fourteens, 
 
 Thirteens, Fifteens, 
 
 Fourteens, Sixteens, 
 
 and, in giving a Scale, showing the relative number 
 of bottles of each size, required to take three gal- 
 lons of liquid, according to the old measure, to fill 
 them, and setting forth the proportionate alteration, 
 which may be occasioned in the price per dozen, 
 by the use of either size in bottling a pipe of Port, 
 supposed to stand the Dealer in 761. with all ex- 
 pences, and allowing three gallons to be taken off 
 as bottoms, it is with the most perfect conviction 
 that a considerable portion of the mystery of our
 
 75 
 
 advertisers vending- at such extraordinary prices, 
 will be explained to the satisfaction of my Readers. 
 
 A SCALE, 
 
 Showing the number of bottles of either size required to take 
 three gallons of liquid, according to the old measure, to fill them, 
 and the proportionate alteration in price, occasioned by the use 
 of each of them, in bottling a pipe of Port of the standard quan- 
 tity of 138 gallons, (equivalent to 115 gallons of the new Im- 
 perial measure), supposed to cost the Dealer 761. with all ex- 
 peuces included, and allowing three gallons (agreeable to the old 
 measure) to be deducted as the bottoms : 
 
 
 
 The relative 
 
 
 
 The number of 
 
 prices per doz. 
 
 
 
 Bottles of each 
 
 as occasioned 
 
 The total num- 
 
 
 size, capable of 
 
 by the use of 
 
 ber of Bottles 
 
 Denomination 
 
 containing 3 
 
 each size in 
 
 of each size 
 
 by which the dif- 
 ferent sizes are 
 
 gallons of li- 
 quid, old mea- 
 
 bottling a pipe 
 of Port as stat- 
 
 the pipe would 
 run when bot- 
 
 known. 
 
 sure. 
 
 ed. 
 
 tled. 
 
 
 
 s. d. 
 
 
 Full Quarts 
 
 12 
 
 33 3 
 
 540 
 
 Thirteens 
 
 13 
 
 31 2 
 
 585 
 
 Fourteens 
 
 14 
 
 28 11J 
 
 630 
 
 Small Fourteens 
 
 14$ 
 
 27 Hi 
 
 652| 
 
 Fifteens 
 
 15 
 
 27 Oi 
 
 675 
 
 Sixteens 
 
 16 
 
 25 4 
 
 720 
 
 
 It will require but a very slight glance at this 
 Scale, to observe the difference which may be 
 made by the bottles alone, to enable the cheap 
 sellers to advertise at a lower rate, and with re- 
 ference to the distribution of the various sizes to 
 each class of Dealers, it may be stated as a fact, no 
 less notorious to every individual in the trade, than 
 it is to all the Bottle Merchants in London, that 
 by far the greatest proportion of the two latter 
 sizes, viz. Fifteens and Sixteens, are sold to the
 
 76 
 
 Gin-shop and Wholesale cheap Wine venders, that 
 the Full Quarts are in more general use for Spirits, 
 and that the remaining sizes, with but very few 
 exceptions indeed, are purchased by the respect- 
 able Wine Merchant, the Wine Cooper, and those 
 of the Gin-shop-keepers, who serve, as they would 
 be served. 
 
 Leaving, however, in the hands of my Readers, 
 the many inferences that may be drawn from this 
 plan of defrauding the Public, of their fair and 
 reasonable measure,* I will now commence as to 
 the adulterations of 
 
 PORT WINE. 
 
 The most usual mode of adulterating this Wine, 
 may be said to consist, in admixing with whatever 
 
 * In treating on this subject of short measure, with regard to 
 bottles, it may not be amiss to mention a circumstance relating to 
 a part of the profits of many of our modern Gin-shop-keepers, 
 arising from a mode they have of cheating their poor dram- 
 drinkers, out of their fair allowance of Gin, &c. It bespeaks the 
 state of refinement, to which their ingenuity has arrived, in this re- 
 spect, and the fact is, of itself, not a little curious. The means by 
 which a certain additional profit is obtained, is technically called 
 in the trade ' by the turn of the glass,' and may be thus explained. 
 The glasses made use of for the poor peo- 
 ple, to drink their Spirits from, are shaped 
 thus; the counter of the bar is covered with 
 lead, perforated with holes, having a com- 
 munication with a 'cask. Now as for ob- 
 vious reasons, the glasses, although scarcely 
 holding the measure when filled to the 
 brim, are seldom so filled, at least to within
 
 77 
 
 different qualities and quantities of it in it's genuine 
 state, are required to answer the views of the 
 cheap Wine seller, the following articles in various 
 proportions, viz. 
 
 BENECARLO,* a strong coarse Spanish Red 
 Wine, known by the denomination of Spanish 
 Black Strap, to be purchased, including duty, at 
 about 38/. per pipe of 115 gallons. 
 
 FIGUERA,* a Red Wine from the province of 
 Estremadura, in Portugal, of intermediate quality 
 between Black Strap and inferior Port, bearing a 
 
 the eighth or sixteenth of an inch, from the chance, that in all 
 probability as much would be spilled, and run into the cask 
 placed to receive it; a quantity equal to the portion contained in 
 three quarters of an inch or more, at the bottoms of what are 
 termed their half-quartern glasses, is thus saved to the seller, and 
 an extra profit reckoned at about seven and a half, per cent, de- 
 rived therefrom, amounting to not a very inconsiderable sum of 
 money, even where there is only a tolerable consumption. 
 
 * It will be proper to remark, that no restriction exists as to 
 mixing one Red Wine with another, providing they both pay the 
 same rate of duty, or one White Wine with another, under a 
 similar proviso; but White Wines cannot legally be mixed with 
 Red, nor can any Wines, whatever, be put together, unless under 
 the circumstance of their duties being equal. Benecarlo and 
 Fignera Wines, pay the same duty as Port, and the fact of an 
 enormous quantity being used of them, and of their being applied 
 to the purposes I have described, and no other, could be fully 
 proved, by a return from the London Dock Company of the im- 
 mense number of pipes of both Wines, which, as is notorious to all 
 of the trade, are yearly imported into, and cleared from thence, to 
 the premises of our cheap sellers, although we never see them 
 mentioned in any of their placards or advertisements, under the 
 denomination which thev bear.
 
 78 
 
 nearer resemblance to the latter, and generally to 
 be bought at 45/. per pipe of 115 gallons, duty in- 
 cluded. 
 
 RED CAPE, which, from its low rate of duty, 
 may be had, including that charge, for about 32/. 
 per pipe of 91 gallons, consequently, forming a 
 profitable ingredient. 
 
 MOUNTAIN, a small quantity, if required, to 
 soften and give an appearance of richness. 
 
 SAL. TARTAR, a portion to occasion the com- 
 pound, when bottled, to crust firm and soon, dis- 
 solved with a proportionate quantity of 
 
 GUM DRAGON, to impart a fullness of flavor 
 and consistency of body ; and to give the whole a 
 face. 
 
 BERRY-DYE, a colouring matter extracted 
 from German Bilberries, and known under this 
 name. In addition to these may be introduced, 
 
 BRANDY COWE, explained at the close of my 
 remarks on Brandy, and which costs nothing, in 
 the proportion of about three gallons to every hun- 
 dred gallons of made up Wine. Another ingre- 
 dient that may also be mentioned, is, 
 
 CYDER, but, as this is only made use of where 
 a second quality of manufactured Port is required, 
 it may be unnecessary to render any other illustra- 
 tion than I am about to give, on purpose to show 
 the application of this, as one of the articles used, 
 particularly as that which constitutes an example 
 of the best and most general method of adultera-
 
 79 
 
 tion, will sufficiently explain to my Readers, the 
 value of our Advertiser's and Placarder's concerns. 
 In order, however, properly to combine the several 
 ingredients mentioned, so as to answer the Dealer's 
 purpose best, (in the variety of respects already 
 named,) it is necessary to erect a vat which will 
 contain from 500 to 1,000 gallons. Into this may 
 be racked as follows : 
 
 
 Imperial 
 gallons. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Imperial 
 gallons. 
 
 
 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 2 Pipes of Benecarlo . . 
 2 Pipes of Figuera . . . 
 1| Pipes of Red Cape . . 
 1| Pipes of Stout Good Por 
 1 Pipe of Common Port 
 Mountain . . 
 
 230 
 230 
 137 
 165 
 115 
 20 
 
 at 
 
 38 
 45 
 32 
 76 
 63 
 60 
 
 per 
 
 115 
 115 
 91 
 115 
 115 
 105 
 
 costs 
 
 76 
 90 
 48 
 109 
 63 
 11 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 
 6 
 10 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Brandy Cowe 
 Colouring . . 
 *Etceteras . . 
 
 20 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Extra allowance for loss 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 by the bottoms . . . 
 
 8 Pipes of Port, of 115 gals, 
 each Pipe, are . . . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 > oJ 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 920 Imperial gallons 
 
 400 
 
 * 2 J pounds Sal Tartar, dissolved in water, with about 3 pounds of 
 Gum Dragon, and introduced with the finings. 
 
 The value of the empty pipes and hogsheads, 
 which is 51. 5s. not being deducted from the 
 amount in this Example, are supposed to pay all 
 expences of cartage, that part of the etceteras 
 which may not be sufficiently charged, or paid for, 
 by the water used to dissolve them, and which is 
 sold as Wine, and for any additional loss which 
 may be sustained by the bottoms.
 
 80 
 
 Thus then, we have eight pipes of superior Port 
 Wine, made up, according to the best and most ap- 
 proved plan, and which stands our Advertising and 
 Placarding Dealers only in 50/. per pipe of 115 
 Imperial gallons, every expence included, and 
 reckoned at the very outside ; or should even this 
 be manufactured at too high a price, to render 
 their profits sufficiently adequate to support that 
 degree of modesty for which they are so famous, a 
 slight variation, in the proportion of any of the in- 
 gredients, need only be made, to produce a con- 
 siderable alteration in their favour. 
 
 By a very simple calculation it will also be 
 shown, that the Wine thus made up, if drawn off 
 in bottles of the size of sixteen to the three gallons, 
 old measure, and adding a charge of Qd. per dozen 
 extra, for corks, would cost only 16*. 9d. per 
 dozen if in the size of bottles termed fifteens, \7s. 
 9d. per dozen ; and the mystery, therefore, of their 
 advertising genuine Port Wines at 23*. Qd. and 
 24*. per dozen, and in pipes, hogsheads, and quarter 
 casks, at the rate of 63/. and 651. per pipe, is at 
 once explained. Should, however, any further 
 confirmation be still required, the following Scale, 
 showing the cost per dozen, to the Advertising 
 Dealer, of Port Wines in the London Docks, duty 
 paid, and reckoned from such as are scarcely 
 drinkable, to those of the finest quality, if cleared 
 home and drawn off in one of the smaller size of 
 bottles in use, (\\z.Jif teens,) must clearly convince
 
 81 
 
 my Readers, that no other than this adulterating; 
 system is practised, particularly as nothing- is cal- 
 culated in the Scale, about to be submitted, for 
 the expences of advertising, placarding 1 , and dis- 
 tributing printed bills, and independently of the 
 fact, that the lowest quality of Wines in dock, are 
 by no means saleable to the Public, until they have 
 undergone a course of doctoring, &c. in the large 
 Wine vats, to say nothing of the facilities which 
 certain Dealer's possess of doing so. 
 
 A SCALE, 
 
 Showing the cost price, per dozen, of Wines in dock, from such as 
 are scarcely drinkable, to those of the finest qualities, if cleared 
 home and bottled in fifteens, (three gallons, according to the old 
 measure, to be deducted from each pipe of 138 gallons, old 
 standard, equal to 115 gallons new. as bottoms,) the value of 
 each cask supposed to pay the expences of clearing from the docks, 
 and cartage, sixpence per dozen being added for charge of corks, 
 and fivepence per dozen more, for expences of bottling, laths, saw- 
 dust, &c. 
 
 Cost prices per 
 
 
 Cost prices per 
 
 
 pipe, of PortWines, 
 
 Cost prices by 
 
 pipe, of PortWines, 
 
 Cost prices by 
 
 from the lowest 
 
 the dozen of 
 
 from the lowest 
 
 the dozen of 
 
 drinkable qualities 
 
 each pipe, if 
 
 drinkable qualities 
 
 each pipe, if 
 
 to those of the fin- 
 
 bottled as stat- 
 
 to those of the fin- 
 
 bottled as stat- 
 
 est description. 
 
 ed in Fifteens. 
 
 est description. 
 
 ed in Fifteens. 
 
 
 per dozen. 
 
 
 per dozen. 
 
 of 
 
 *. d. 
 
 
 
 s. d. 
 
 60 
 
 22 3 
 
 85 
 
 31 If 
 
 63 
 
 23 3J 
 
 90 
 
 32 11 
 
 65 
 
 24 <>| 
 
 95 
 
 34 8i 
 
 70 
 
 25 9* 
 
 100 
 
 36 5{ 
 
 75 
 
 27 7 
 
 105 
 
 38 3 
 
 80 
 
 29 4i 
 
 110 
 
 40 0$
 
 82 
 
 Leaving rny Readers, however, to decide after 
 inspecting- this Scale, whether a profit of Is. 3d. or 
 1*. 9d. per dozen, (and without reckoning the ex- 
 pences of advertising, &c.) be adequate to support 
 the extensive establishments, these placarding con- 
 cerns have become, and yet, at the same time, to 
 allow of splendid fortunes, being realized, and 
 having proved the existence and manner of the 
 adulterating practices with respect to Port Wine, 
 which, in part facilitates the accomplishment of 
 that end, and sufficient, to induce every individual, 
 (before he is prevailed on to part with his money 
 for an article, adulterated to a degree, the extent 
 of which, but very few have any idea) ; to weigh 
 well the pretensions of those placarders and ad- 
 vertisers, who profess to sell so much below the 
 respectable Wine Merchant, who possesses quite 
 as extensive a knowledge of the market as them- 
 selves, and equal means of purchasing as ad- 
 vantageously, I now proceed to expose the adul- 
 terations of 
 
 SHERRY. 
 
 Since the Pale Sherries have become so much 
 in fashion, the operations of our adulterators, have 
 chiefly been confined, to making up their compo- 
 sitions to advertise and sell, under this denomina- 
 tion. For this purpose, the basis most generally 
 employed, has been the coarse highly brandied 
 Broivn Sherries, as they are to be purchased much
 
 lower than the Pale, although such as are of a su- 
 perior kind, fetch prices altogether as much higher. 
 
 To a portion of this low description of Brown 
 Sherry, is introduced Cape, Brandy Cowe, and 
 numerous other ingredients, in varied proportions, 
 according to the tastes of the different makers up, 
 and their experience, as to what will best assist in 
 deceiving the Public. My object, however, will 
 be to point out, as I have done respecting Port 
 Wine, that which is considered, by our cheap 
 sellers, the most effective mode of doctoring and 
 manufacturing a fictitious resemblance of Pale 
 Sherry, leaving my Readers to infer therefrom, 
 the means which are employed to prepare or adul- 
 terate any other kind of Sherry, whether to be sold 
 as Brown or Amber-Coloured, and also from the 
 illustrative Scale which I am about to submit, (al- 
 though only calculated as to what is supposed to 
 make up the best imitation of the genuine article, 
 and adopted but by a few of our more knowing Ad- 
 vertising Dealers,) to form some slight estimate of 
 the profitable nature, and general character, of the 
 concerns at which such mixtures are vended. 
 
 Pale Sherries, in general, as possessing scarcely 
 any body, being less prominent in point of flavor than 
 the Brown, or as they are commonly termed, being 
 light delicate Wines, on which accounts they are 
 usually preferred to the darker Wines of the same 
 name, allow perhaps of a greater extent of adul- 
 teration than almost any other Wine whatever, and
 
 84 
 
 a ready sale for them, is aided in no trifling de- 
 gree, 'by the circumstance of so much depending 
 on pleasing the eye as to colour, than with respect 
 to which (and paleness of colour, in particular), 
 nothing is more easy to accomplish, in fictitious, 
 and manufactured White Wines. 
 
 To the requisite proportion of coarse Brown 
 Sherry, which may be purchased at about 60/. per 
 butt, of 108 Imperial gallons, the articles made use 
 of, in what is considered the best mode of making 
 up a resemblance of Pale Sherry, or where the 
 number of spurious ingredients employed for the 
 purpose, are fewest, and in the smallest proportions, 
 consist of the following, in relative qualities 
 
 CAPE, (to be bought, including duty, for about 
 221. per pipe of 91 gallons,) previously fined, and 
 racked bright from the lees. 
 
 BRANDY COWE, which costs nothing, but is 
 useful in lessening the body of the mixture, so as to 
 give it the appearance of being a light-bodied Wine. 
 
 EXTRACT OF ALMOND CAKE,* (used also in 
 
 * On reference to the trial of Oldfield, it will be seen that the 
 composition applied by him to impart the proper flavor to his adul- 
 terated Wine, was formed of a mixture of Sweet and Bitter Al- 
 monds, with Powdered Oyster Shells and Chalk, the two latter in- 
 gredients being added, to bind and concentrate the whole. By 
 those, however, of our advertisers, who, are even more knowing than 
 Mr. Oldfield, the Extract of Almond Cake is usually preferred, as 
 not having so great a tendency to alter the face of the Wine, or 
 render it less transparent, and also as it is supposed to impart a 
 more delicate flavor.
 
 85 
 
 the adulteration of Brandy), to impart a nutty 
 flavor. 
 
 CHERRY-LAUREL WATER, a small quantity, 
 generally in order to check the predominence of 
 the Almond Cake, and to give a roundness of 
 flavor; or, if it be Brown Sherry that is to be adul- 
 terated, or manufactured, to enable the vender to 
 sell it as such, 
 
 GUM BENZOIN* is often made use of, in the 
 place of Extract of Almond Cake, as it causes the 
 mixture, to bear a nearer resemblance to the par- 
 ticular flavor, possessed by the Brown Sherry, as 
 distinguished from the Pale : if, however, the com- 
 position be intended for Pale Sherry, it is supposed 
 to be completed, after the several ingredients (with 
 the exception of the latter), have been well rum- 
 maged together with the Winej and when, (in 
 order, to extract a sufficient portion of the colour, 
 to render it pale,) 
 
 LAMB'S BLOODf has been employed with the 
 
 * This article is a component part of the meridicament, called 
 Friar's Balsam; it is used in the manufacture of Spurious Arrack, 
 as well as for the purpose I have here pointed out. 
 
 f The properties of this article, will almost exceed belief: 
 The chemical decomposition of colour, which it occasions in the 
 Wine, which receives its aid, is so extremely rapid, that, in the 
 course of five or six hours, the Wine becomes completely changed, 
 from brown, to pale ; and, such is the power it possesses, that, 
 comparatively, only, a very slight increase, in the quantity of it 
 usually employed to manufacture Pale Sherry, is required to reduce 
 a dark brown Wine, to the colour of tinged water. By a few of 
 our Adulterators, Skimmed Milk, has been employed, to answer 
 
 G
 
 linings. This is done in the proportion of three 
 pints of blood, to every Jhundred gallons of the 
 compound, if it is to appear distinctly as Pale 
 Sherry ; but if it is only meant to pass for Amber- 
 coloured Sherry, one pint and a half, of this de- 
 lectable ingredient, is enough. The whole mixture, 
 however, after lying ten days or so, is bottled off, 
 or racked into quarter casks, &sc. and is then con- 
 sidered fit to be advertised, and sold as genuine 
 Sherry, under whichever character, as to colour, 
 it has been made to represent. Another article 
 sometimes introduced, and supposed to be a capital 
 material to assist in the manufacture of fictitious 
 Sherry, on the best system to deceive the Public, is, 
 
 BRITISH RAISIN WINE ; but as my informa- 
 tion is not so conclusive as to this being much in 
 use, any further than with a very few, even of 
 those who are considered the cleverest adepts ; for 
 the sake of accuracy in detail, I have not included 
 it, in the Example, I am about to submit. 
 
 For the purpose of mingling, and intimately 
 combining, in the most effectual manner, the dif- 
 ferent ingredients, for the making up of spurious 
 Pale Sherry, which I have thus placed before my 
 Readers ; the erection of a vat, or vats, is not less 
 necessary and advantageous, than for the fabrica- 
 tion of Port; independently of Sherry, being a 
 
 the same purpose as Lamb's Blood, but its effect lias been found to 
 be so very deficient in several respects, that, I believe, its use, is 
 now entirely superseded by the latter more valuable ingredient.
 
 87 
 
 Wine, almost as much in demand as the latter, and 
 therefore, required to be made up in quantities 
 nearly, if not quite, as large. Thus, into a vat con- 
 taining from 800 to 1000 gallons, may be racked 
 as follows : (the pipes of Cape mentioned in the 
 Scale, having been previously fined and drawn off 
 bright from the bottoms ; for which expence an al- 
 lowance is made in the cost price.) 
 
 3 Pipes of Cape (quite 
 clear from the lees) . 
 4 Butts of Coarse Brown 
 
 Imperial 
 gallons. 
 
 at 
 
 
 
 25 
 
 60 
 65 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 per 
 
 Imperial 
 gallons. 
 
 costs 
 
 
 75 
 
 240 
 64 
 
 1 
 
 
 3 
 
 s. 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 
 d. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 273 
 
 432 
 107 
 50 
 
 
 
 91 
 
 108 
 108 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 Butt, of better quality . 
 Brandy Cowe . . . 
 Extract of Almond Cake 
 Cherry-laurel Water . 
 Allowance for loss by 
 the bottoms . . . 
 
 8 Butts of Sherry, of 108 
 gallons each butt, are 
 
 864 Imperial gallons 
 
 . ,384 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 In order to extract the colour from this com- 
 pound, so as to render it Pale; three gallons of 
 Lamb's Blood (the sooner it is used after the animal 
 is killed the better), must be beat up, with the 
 proper proportion of finings, (viz. four gallons,) in- 
 troduced into the vat, and well stirred round with 
 its contents. 
 
 According to this Scale, which is a true and cor- 
 rect example of the plan generally adopted, as par- 
 taking of the least adulteration, we have eight 
 
 G 2
 
 88 
 
 butts of 108 gallons each, of a most delightful mix- 
 ture, which costs only 48/. per butt, at the very 
 outside ; the expences being much more than paid 
 in the value of the casks, (5/. 6s.) which has not 
 before been taken into consideration, or deducted 
 from the total amount, to lessen the cost per butt ; 
 and in the course of a few days after the finings 
 and Lamb's Blood have been put in, it is ready to 
 be advertised as * Fine Pale Sherry of peculiar 
 delicacy and flavor!' If bottled in 'fifteens? and 
 (id. per dozen, be added for charge of corks, the 
 cost price, per dozen, would be 18s. 2%d. if in the 
 size of bottles termed * sixteens,' 16*. \.\\d. per 
 dozen. As stated by our different advertisers and 
 placarders, the prices for sale are 24s. ; 25*. (yd. ; 
 27*. ; 28*. Qd. ; and 30*.* per dozen ; and, without 
 dwelling on the variety of inferences that may be 
 drawn from this point, the following Scale, show- 
 ing the cost prices, per dozen, of genuine Sherries, 
 both Pale and Brown, in dock, duty paid, from the 
 lowest qualities to the highe&t, and although pur- 
 chased in the cheapest manner, if cleared home 
 
 * It should be observed, that another mode these worthies have 
 of increasing their profits, is by selling the same Wine; which is ad- 
 verlised at so low a rate, for that for which a higher price is quoted, 
 thus, in applying for a quantity of Wine at 30*. per dozen, you are 
 supplied with identically the same Wine as is advertised, and sold, 
 at 24*. per dozen. If yon apply for some, the price of which is 
 stated as at 36*. or 42*. per dozen, you are served from that, 
 which is occasionally sold as of tempting quality, at 30*. per 
 dozen, and so on through their whole scale of prices.
 
 and bottled in 'fifteens, (6d. per dozen being 
 reckoned for corks, and 5d. per dozen more for ex- 
 pences of bottling", laths, saw-dust, &c. the value 
 of each cask supposed to pay for cartage and 
 clearing from docks,) will, T apprehend, as fully 
 establish the fact, as to the universal existence of 
 the adulterations, practised with this Wine, amongst 
 our cheap sellers, as a similar Scale has already 
 proved their existence in Port Wine. With 
 respect to both instances, nothing can be more 
 barefaced and glaring, because it will be seen, that 
 the cost, per dozen, even of the lowest qualities of 
 the genuine Wines, and of such as are at all drink- 
 able, are, much too high to permit them to be ad- 
 vertised, and sold, at the prices, at which they are 
 offered : still less, that such prices should enable the 
 venders to support the numerous charges and ex- 
 pences, to which the nature of their traffic, unavoid- 
 ably subjects them.
 
 90 
 
 A SCALE, 
 
 Showing the cost prices, per dozen, of genuine Pale and Brown 
 Sherries, from the very lowest qualities and prices of such, as are 
 nt all drinkable to those of the highest description, if cleared home 
 and bottled in 'fifteens' Each butt is supposed to contain the 
 new standard quantity of 108 Imperial gallons; equivalent to 130 
 gallons of ihe old standard measure. Two gallons and four fifths, 
 according to the latter measure, deducted in the calculation, as the 
 bottoms; sixpence per dozen reckoned extra for corks; fivepence 
 per dozen more, for expences of bottling, lalhs, saw-dust, &c. ; 
 and the value of each cask, to pay for cartage and clearing from 
 docks. 
 
 Cost prices per 
 
 Cost price by 
 
 Cost prices per 
 
 Cost price by 
 
 dozen of genuine 
 
 the dozen of 
 
 dozen of genuine 
 
 the dozen of 
 
 Pale Sherry, from 
 
 each butt, ac- 
 
 Brown Sherry, 
 
 each butt, ac- 
 
 the lowest drink- 
 
 cording to tbe 
 
 from the lowest 
 
 cording to the 
 
 able qualities to 
 
 quality, if 
 
 drinkable qualities 
 
 quaJity, if 
 
 the very finest de- 
 
 bottled aa 
 
 to the very finest 
 
 bottled as 
 
 scription. 
 
 stated. 
 
 description. 
 
 stated. 
 
 Per butt. 
 
 Per dozen. 
 
 Per butt. 
 
 Per dozen. 
 
 
 
 s. d. 
 
 
 
 s. d. 
 
 65 
 
 25 5$ 
 
 58 
 
 22 9| 
 
 70 
 
 27 3f 
 
 60 
 
 23 61 
 
 75 
 
 29 x 2| 
 
 63 
 
 24 8| 
 
 80 
 
 31 l| 
 
 68 
 
 26 6f 
 
 85 
 
 32 llf 
 
 72 
 
 28 1 
 
 90 
 
 34 101 
 
 78 
 
 30 4 
 
 95 
 
 36 9 
 
 82 
 
 31 10$ 
 
 100 
 
 38 7f 
 
 86 
 
 33 4i 
 
 105 
 
 40 6J 
 
 92 
 
 35 7 
 
 
 
 
 
 98 
 
 37 lOf 
 
 
 
 
 
 105 
 
 40 6\ 
 
 
 
 0- 
 
 110 
 
 42 5
 
 91 
 
 Having 1 thus, I think, effectually proved by mi- 
 nute explanations and calculations, the truth of my 
 assertions, as to the adulterations practised by the 
 majority of our advertisers and placarders, with 
 the two leading articles of Wine, viz. Port and 
 Sherry, it may not be necessary, any further than 
 in a general way, to go through the minutiae, of the 
 same practises, with regard to other Wines; as 
 similar facts and arguments, will exactly apply to 
 them, as well, whether it be, with respect to the 
 circumstance of their being adulterated, or to the 
 convincing testimony which the following affords : 
 * That even the lowest, and scarcely drinkable, 
 quality of Wines, must stand our advertising 
 gentlemen in prices too high, to allow of their 
 being retailed in quantities of a few gallons, or 
 dozens, and in a genuine state, at the terms quoted 
 in their placards and advertisements,' except where 
 the impositions carried into effect, is by substi- 
 tuting one Wine for another, which can only be 
 done, where the character and flavor of each re- 
 sembles the other; and even then, it is only 
 adopted where there is sufficient difference in cost, 
 to render it worth the while of the Advertising 
 Dealer. At the head, therefore, of the remaining 
 Wines, which it is my intention to notice under 
 their respective titles, but in a general way, I shall 
 commence with,
 
 92 
 
 EAST INDIA MADEIRA. 
 
 The character and description of this Wine, as 
 considered the best, and bearing the highest price 
 in the market, is, that possessed of the greatest 
 richness and flavor, without any of that apparent 
 tendency to acidity and want of body, by which 
 the lower qualities of it are distinguished. The 
 most approved of the West India Madeira Wines, 
 though seldom purchased at so high a price, in 
 many instances, rank, in point of quality, before 
 those, which belong to the inferior class of East 
 India Madeiras, and one of the frauds, therefore, 
 committed on the Public, through the medium of 
 the extraordinary cheap prices \ve daily see ad- 
 vertised, is, by the substitution and sale of the ar- 
 ticle of West India Maderia, for the finest quality 
 of the one, on which I am now treating. 
 
 The method whereby the adulteration, or rather 
 the manufacture of a spurious imitation, of East 
 India Madeira is performed, is, by admixing a 
 portion of the genuine Wine, with a quantity of 
 Vidonia, or Direct Madeira, and East India Cape ; 
 fined, and racked bright from the lees ; the latter, 
 though bearing a much higher price, than Cape, 
 which has not had the benefit of a voyage, from 
 the Cape of Good Hope to the East Indies, and 
 thence back to London, forming a valuable in- 
 gredient, to assist in lowering the cost, so as to 
 enable the advertiser, to placard the composition,
 
 93 
 
 (which, however, bears no kind of relation, either 
 in costliness or quality, to the genuine article), as 
 * Fine Old East India Madeira, at unprecedented 
 cheap prices, for ready money only.' \Vith re- 
 spect to 
 
 WEST INDIA MADEIRA, 
 
 Which ranks next to the article on which I have 
 just remarked ; if intended to be made up, so as to 
 partake of the least adulteration, and to be, as our 
 cheap sellers term it, ' of capital quality,' the fol- 
 lowing is the mode in which it is treated : to a 
 portion of good West India Madeira, is added a 
 quantity of Old Thin Direct Madeira, which 
 would otherwise be unsaleable, and to which, if too 
 nearly approaching to acidity, a few ounces of 
 Carbonate of Soda is applied, in order to rid it 
 of that quality, and render it more fit for use. 
 After being well rummaged together in the cask 
 or vat, if it be thought by the maker up, too poor, 
 a small quantity of Mountain, is introduced to en- 
 rich it. The whole, however, when thus mixed 
 up, on the plan to answer the views of the most 
 conscientious of our advertisers, constitutes the ar- 
 ticle, sold under the title of * Fine Old Soft-fla- 
 vored West India Madeira? at prices, which leave 
 a profit, of, at least twenty-five per cent, although if 
 genuine, it would cost an equal per centage more. 
 The Wine, to which I have now to proceed, as pos- 
 sessing the next relation in point of character, is
 
 94 
 
 Commonly distinguished by the name of, Direct 
 Madeira; on account of its being shipped direct 
 from the Island of Madeira to this country, with- 
 out the benefit of a voyage, to the West or East 
 Indies. A very little, however, that is sold by 
 our cheap advertisers and placarders as Madeira, 
 possesses any part of it, in the composition, which 
 they dispose of under its title. The best manu- 
 facture of a fictitious resemblance of the real 
 Wine, is said to consist, of a combination of cheap 
 Vidonia, with a proportion of about one twentieth 
 part of common dry Port, one tenth part Moun- 
 tain, and about a fifth part Cape, the whole being 
 mixed together. This compound, when properly 
 fined, is considered excellent ; and, with that modest 
 assurance, which distinguishes the whole tribe of 
 advertisers, is sold under the denomination of c Old 
 London Particular? or, any other appellation, by 
 which ' they choose to designate it, with the 
 greatest success ; which is aided, in no trifling de- 
 gree, by the curious circumstance, of their prices 
 being twenty per cent, less, and their profits ten 
 per cent, greater, than the more scrupulous Wine 
 Merchant, who does not attempt to adulterate. It 
 will be necessary only shortly to notice the 
 
 VIDONIA WINES, 
 
 As they are termed, which are brought from the
 
 95 
 
 Island of Teneriffe ; and are sometimes called by 
 the latter title, because, the only difference which 
 exists between their adulteration and that of Di- 
 rect Madeira, (both Wines, when genuine, greatly 
 resembling each other,) is merely the addition of 
 a portion of Cyder, or British made Wine ; if the 
 former be used, all tendency to an acid taste, is to 
 be taken from it by means of Carbonate of Soda; 
 and all chance of its retaining any fixed air, or ef- 
 fervescent quality, by the application of one gal- 
 lon, of strong Neutral-flavored Rum, to every 
 twenty gallons of Cyder. Thus, in making up a 
 cask, or vat, of this Vidonia Wine, add, as with 
 Madeira, one twentieth part of Common Dry Port, 
 one tenth part Mountain, one tenth part old Cyder, 
 (after being prepared, as described) and about a 
 fourth part Cape, to the relative proportion of in- 
 ferior Teneriffe Wine; and, according to the 
 opinions of our advertisers, after it is lined, we 
 have a most excellent sample of the ' Old Vidonia 
 Wines,' ready for sale, on the most inviting terms, 
 as to character and cheapness. 
 
 BUCELLAS. 
 
 Previously to my speaking of the adulterations 
 of this W ine, I would make one remark as to an im- 
 position, very generally practised, in order to avoid 
 the trouble of making up a composition, and also to 
 advertise the articles, as of the choicest quality. 
 This is by the substitution and sale of Thin Dry
 
 96 
 
 Lisbon, a quantity of which, during the last season, 
 (in consequence of there not being a sufficient 
 supply of inferior Bucellas, to meet the demands 
 of those who required a second description), was, 
 I understand, made up to bear some likeness to 
 the genuine Bucellas, and in some instances, the 
 better qualities of it were actually shipped as such. 
 The method of manufacturing a second-rate qua- 
 lity of spurious Bucellas, to the Dry Lisbon I have 
 just mentioned, so as to pass for the genuine ar- 
 ticle, is, by the admixture of Cape Bucellas; (a 
 Wine, which bears some resemblance, in point of 
 character, but which still retains the earthy flavor 
 by which all Cape Wines are so well known) a 
 portion of Thin Dry Lisbon, and a quantum of 
 Brandy Cowe, which latter is highly serviceable in 
 diminishing the body, and giving the whole a 
 light, delicate appearance. This composition, with 
 a proportion of about one half of the genuine Wine, 
 produces that which is advertised, and sold, as 
 1 Fine Old delicately pale Bucellas,' remarkably 
 cheap, for ready money only. 
 
 TENT. 
 
 So little, that is disposed of, by our advertisers 
 and placnrders, under this denomination, is the 
 foreign and genuine Tent Wine, that although 
 upon the whole, in comparison with other Wines, 
 but a small portion is sold ; yet, the impositions, of 
 which it is made the medium, deserve a short no-
 
 97 
 
 tice in this Treatise, more particularly, as the 
 greater part of its consumers, who are the sick and 
 invalid, are led to believe, (except in a very few 
 cases,) that it is the foreign Tent which they pur- 
 chase. The chief, and most general imposition 
 practised, is the substitution and sale of British 
 Tent ; a compound, manufactured by the Rectifiers, 
 and as unlike the foreign (which is from the juice 
 of a grape), in flavor and beneficial quality, as can 
 well be imagined in two things intended to re- 
 semble each other. By those cheap sellers, who, 
 may be supposed to possess a larger share of con- 
 science, Cape Tent is substituted, or the foreign 
 and genuine Wine occasionally disposed of, in a 
 mixed state only. 
 
 RED CAPE, 
 
 Advertised under various denominations, such as 
 Cape Port, Pontac, 6fc. It is but very recently 
 that this Wine, has become an article of sale, in 
 the placards, and advertisements, of our cheap 
 sellers, and the object of its being introduced 
 there, is not a little obvious, to all acquainted with 
 what are termed the secrets of the trade ; particu- 
 larly, as no extraordinary low prices are quoted for it, 
 (except in a very few instances), nor is it in any way 
 made a leading article, as is the case occasionally, 
 with Cape Madeira and Cape Sherry. The adul- 
 teration of it, when required, is performed by the 
 admixture of that proportion of Cyder, and the
 
 98 
 
 colouring matter called JBerry-dye, necessary, to 
 answer the extent, to which the placarder wishes 
 to reduce the cost price. The chief end, however, 
 in view, in advertising it for sale, is, in order to 
 give as plausible a face to the possession of it as 
 possible, so that when the adulterator, uses it in his 
 Port Wine, in which a requisite decrease has previ- 
 ously been obtained, the disappearance of a nearly 
 similar quantity of Red Cape, to occupy the place of 
 that decrease, may not have any singular or suspi- 
 cious appearance; which would be the case, did he 
 not give some reason, (by placarding or advertising 
 it,) to suppose that a similar quantity might have 
 been sold. With those of our advertisers and pla- 
 carders, who are Gin-shop-keepers, the facilities for 
 thus imposing on the Excise Officers, are very great, 
 as they are able to avail themselves of the interpre- 
 tation, to which they are always open, of having 
 disposed of some considerable quantity over their 
 counters, without having been under the necessity 
 of drawing any permit, which would expose them 
 to a greater risk of detection. 
 
 CAPE MADEIRA, and CAPE SHERRY. 
 
 Singular as it may appear, that Wines, the 
 better qualities of which are sufficiently indifferent, 
 when in a genuine state, and of themselves, should 
 be made a source of profitable imposition, through 
 the medium of adulteration, it is not less the fact,
 
 99 
 
 that few Wines are deteriorated to a greater ex- 
 tent than the Cape Wines on which I am now 
 treating 1 . With regard to the distinction which is 
 made in their denominations, those termed Cape 
 Sherries, are selected more immediately from the 
 Wines, which, in point of flavor, bear the greatest 
 resemblance to real Sherry ; the remainder consti- 
 tutes what are usually entitled Cape Madeiras, and 
 the adulterations of each are so qualified, as still 
 to preserve the separate characters, which have 
 been assigned them. 
 
 To lay down any particular plan of adulterating 
 the generality of Cape White Wines, is almost im- 
 possible, as with them, in most cases, are blended 
 (as a means of conveying away, and turning to 
 good account) whatever is useless or unsaleable of 
 other Wines ; and which practise, consequently, 
 renders the quality somewhat dependent on cir- 
 cumstances. In order, however, to give my 
 readers some idea of the usual mode of adulterating 
 this Wine: into a Cape vat containing any inde- 
 finite proportion of the Wine, is introduced the 
 drippings of the cocks, from the various casks : 
 White Wines, of any description that may have 
 been spoiled by having been put into bad or musty 
 vessels, and the filterings of the lees of all the 
 different Wines in the cellar, after these in- 
 gredients have accumulated for a certain length 
 of time, a few gallons of Brandy or Rum Cowe, 
 and, occasionally, Cyder, are added : if, when tasted,
 
 100 
 
 the mixture is found of a quality too indifferent to 
 be saleable, an additional proportion of the genuine 
 Cape, immediately brings it up to the necessary 
 standard : If it be desirable to advertise a portion 
 as Cape Sherry, the introduction (after such por- 
 tion is racked into another vessel) of a small quan- 
 tity of Extract of Almond Cake^ produces the 
 wished for result ; if, to represent a very paleWine, 
 a little LamVs Blood, mixed in with the finings, at 
 once enables the cheap seller to placard it, as deli- 
 cately Pale Cape Sherry, or Madeira, at astonish- 
 ingly low prices, &c. &c. The illustration thus 
 afforded, of the value of Cape Wine, whether it 
 be as an individual source of profit, as an admira- 
 ble basis on which to adulterate other and more 
 expensive Wines, or as offering a ready and pro- 
 fitable mode, of getting rid of any thing, which an 
 Advertising Dealer, may have on his premises, in 
 the shape of Wine, &c. which is spoiled, or other- 
 wise unsaleable, is so obvious, that I think it needs 
 no further comment. 
 
 Having thus opened the eyes of my Readers, 
 to the adulterations of the major part of the Wines 
 (exclusive of French,) for which such low prices 
 are quoted by our placarders, &c. and sufficiently 
 so, to enable any one to draw a pretty clear in- 
 ference of the general nature of the practises of 
 those gentlemen, I will just glance at the means 
 adopted, to deceive the Public, with deteriorated 
 Claret and fictitious Champagne, as a specimen,
 
 101 
 
 that even, the most costly Wines, are neither pro- 
 tected from the mischievous ingenuity of our cheap 
 sellers, nor forgotten in their adulterating vocabu- 
 lary. 
 
 Whether the importations of Cape Burgundy, 
 Cape Hermitage, Cape Hock, Cape Santerne, 8$c. 
 which frequently arrive in this country from the 
 Cape of Good Hope, may constitute any basis, 
 from the use of which, an extra profit is derived 
 on the Wines, to which they are made to bear 
 some slight resemblance, I shall not pretend to 
 say ; a view of the means employed to advertise 
 cheap Claret, and more particularly cheap Cham- 
 pagne, will, 1 doubt not, fully answer the purposes 
 of this Treatise with respect to French Wines. 
 
 CLARET. 
 
 The adulterations of this Wine, as carried on, in 
 the cellars of our placarders and advertisers, may 
 be summed up in few words ; a small quantum of 
 Spanish Red Wine, and a portion of Rough Cyder, 
 (the latter, I am informed, being an article not un- 
 frequently applied in the making up of cheap 
 Clarets abroad,) is introduced into a cask contain- 
 ing inferior Claret, a colour being previously added 
 to the Cyder, by means of Berry-dye, or Tincture 
 of Brazil Wood, the difference in duty and cost 
 price, and a little management in the apportioning 
 what is used of the Spanish Red Wine and Cyder, 
 at once enabling the cheap sellers, to reduce the 
 
 ti
 
 102 
 
 prices on their placards to what scale soever they 
 please. They have, besides, this circumstance in 
 their favour, that, although they may occasionally 
 advertise Clarets in the London Docks, on as low, 
 or perhaps lower terms, with regard to price, than 
 that which they manufacture, (the means of doing 
 which it is also my intention to lay before my 
 Readers,) the latter is much better, as possessing 
 apparently greater body, less chance of turning 
 sour, and being altogether of a more saleable na- 
 ture, and though by no means approaching even to 
 the middling qualities of genuine Claret, they are 
 able to advertise it, as of an exceedingly fine de- 
 scription. Since the reduction of the duties, the 
 avidity with which our English cheap sellers, have 
 laid hold on any article of Wine that afforded 
 them the least chance of imposing on the Public, 
 has given rise to a most cordial co-operation on 
 the part of several French Dealers in the same 
 honest design, in order to facilitate the sale of 
 manufactured French Wines, and which it is evi- 
 dent (from the bare-faced assurance with which 
 they are puffed off, and from the want of a caution 
 against the serious effects of this coalition) has 
 fully answered the purposes of both parties, par- 
 ticularly as the profits attached to this kind of bu- 
 siness, (notwithstanding the prices are quoted at 
 so low a rate,) it will be seen, are tolerably remu- 
 nerating. 
 
 It will, no doubt, excite some surprise, when it
 
 103 
 
 is mentioned as a fact, which ( can be supported by 
 the testimony of some of our first-rate importers 
 and French Wine growers, that the cost to the 
 manufacturers, of the inferior Clarets thus shippedy 
 is not more {at the outside), than two sous per 
 bottle ; that the charge from them to our English 
 cheap sellers, is at about ten or twelve sous per 
 bottle, equivalent to 5s. or (>s. sterling per dozen ; 
 that the expences of bottles, case, and freightage, 
 do not exceed 4*. Qd. per dozen more ; and the 
 duty and other charges, at the utmost calculation, 
 19s. per dozen. Thus, supposing a case of this 
 Wine to cost as follows : 
 
 L. s. d. 
 
 3 dozen prime Claret, at 5s. 6d. - 0160 
 
 Expense of bottles, case, freightage, &c. at 
 
 4s. 6d. 13 6 
 
 Duty on 3 dozen, and Landing Charges, &c. 
 
 at 19s. - . 2 17 
 
 One 3 doz. Case of prime Claret, at 29s. per 
 
 dozen, is 470 
 
 The means by which they are enabled to advertise 
 it at the low prices we see, and the extent of pro- 
 fit derived from this reputable branch of the cheap 
 seller's business, may be at once estimated ; whilst a 
 short insight into the mode of its manufacture, will 
 clearly prove that the French adulterators are by 
 no means less deficient in the art of imposition, (al- 
 though their efforts are confined but to one or two 
 
 O 
 
 articles of Wine), than their brethren, the English 
 adulterators. 
 
 H 2
 
 The Wine, (if it can be so called) which is now 
 brought over to the London Docks, advertised at 
 so cheap a rate, and so conveniently situated for 
 re-shipment to France, should the Dealers be so 
 unsuccessful as not to find people foolish enough 
 to become purchasers, is, as I have satisfactorily as- 
 certained from the best authority, which must 
 quite refute the silly assertions and borrowed ex- 
 planations, made use of in our modern cheap Wine 
 advertisements, nothing more, than a compound of 
 the refuse of various French Wines, thrown to- 
 gether, with a portion of French Cyder, which, 
 though comparatively an expensive ingredient, is 
 admirably adapted for the purpose of giving an ap- 
 pearance of body ; to this is added, as some further 
 qualification, a proportionate quantity -of what is 
 termed ' third quality wine,'* a description, which, 
 
 * The class -of Wine here referred to, as forming a component 
 part of the mixture which is now shipped for Claret to this coun- 
 try by some of our advertising dealers, may in some measure be 
 estimated from the manner in which the manufacture of it is per. 
 formed in France. At the proper season of the year, when the 
 grapes have arrived at maturity, they are gathered, and deposited 
 in large vats. The juice which is detached from them by their 
 own pressure, and which runs into a vessel placed to receive it, 
 constitutes the base of that which the vintners term the 'first 
 quality' and is carefully secured in separate utensils, the utmost 
 attention being paid to its fermentation and subsequent treatment. 
 After this vinous liquid has drained from the vat, till no more can 
 be obtained, a number of men are employed in that vessel to tread 
 out the grapes which have been deposited therein, which process 
 is performed with the naked feet ! and without even the slightest 
 arrangement as to cleanliness the necessity of which, when it is
 
 105 
 
 in the districts where the Wines are made, was 
 considered so utterly worthless, even as the most 
 ordinary beverage amongst the lower classes, be- 
 fore our Placarding Dealers provided so excellent 
 a channel for its consumption in England, that the 
 sin was frequently committed of throwing large 
 quantities of it away, to the great pecuniary loss 
 of our advertisers, and the privation of the tastes 
 of our consumers. The composition thus de- 
 scribed, after the requisite portion of coarse in- 
 ferior Brandy, has been introduced, (to prevent it 
 turning sour,) and the whole of the mixture has 
 been properly coloured and flavoured by a prepa- 
 
 cousidered that the chief of the wines are made in the south of 
 France, may he better conceived than described. The juice which 
 is thus procured, produces that which is called the ' second quality 
 wine.' 
 
 The third quality, which is that made use of in manufacturing 
 the extremely cheap Wines, now shipped to England in such vast 
 profusion, is derived by a retreading of the remains of the grapes, 
 contained in the vat, with the naked feet, and by the occasional 
 addition of large quantities of water, which, by washing the pulp 
 of the fruit, becomes impregnated with some portion of vinosity. 
 This liquid, after being fermented, and undergoing its proper 
 treatment, forms the ' third quality wine' and not only assists 
 in manufacturing a commodity of French Wine, to sell at a very 
 cheap rate in this country, but also offers itself to our ad- 
 vertisers in its genuine slate, to afford them the means of giving 
 their customers the choice of a Wine at rather a higher price, and 
 as of a superior quality, should such be required in preference to 
 the lower priced Claret, which, as I have described above, is 
 made up of various materials, though now so modestly disposed 
 of, by several of our Advertising Dealers, as genuine ' Vin de 
 Bourdeaux.
 
 106 
 
 ration, which, from the acknowledged ingenuity of 
 French Chemists, must be considered in both re- 
 spects, elegant in the extreme, is ready to be 
 racked into casks, or drawn off into bottles, and to 
 be shipped to this country, accompanied with all 
 the instructions, &c. necessary to render the ad- 
 vertisements and placards, respecting it, sufficiently 
 attractive. Let my Readers make a few inquiries 
 as I have done, of individuals who must be inti- 
 mately acquainted with the growth and manufac- 
 ture of French Wines, and on whose veracity they 
 can depend, and they will find, that I have neither 
 made any exaggerated, or incorrect statement, of 
 the prices at which this excellent quality of Claret 
 is to be purchased, nor of the component parts and 
 nature of its composition ; but, on the contrary, 
 that I have forborne enlarging on some facts, too 
 disgusting to appear on paper. 
 
 CHAMPAGNE. 
 
 As is the case with several of the foreign Wines 
 on which I have remarked, one of the frauds com- 
 mitted on the Public with this costly description 
 of Wine, through the attraction of cheap prices, 
 is, by substituting another article for it, (the cost 
 of which is very considerably lower,) and disposing 
 of such, as the real Wine. 
 
 Gooseberry Wine (which, though genuine in it- 
 self, and bearing, in some respects, a slight re- 
 semblance, yet by no means to be compared,
 
 107 
 
 either in cost or actual quality, to the real and ge- 
 nuine Champagne,) is usually employed as the sub- 
 stitute ; but, as this may be said to form the chief 
 imposition, with regard to the vending cheap 
 Sparkling Champagne, from the premises of the 
 Dealer, my principal object, in the first place, will 
 be to explain the manner in which this Gooseberry 
 Wine is admitted into the stocks, even of our 
 largest advertising and placarding concerns, and 
 sold from thence as genuine Sparkling Champagne, 
 and afterwards proceed to expose the admirable 
 basis from which the Sillery and Still, together 
 with the Sparkling Champagnes, are puffed off to 
 so great an advantage, as being in the London 
 Docks. It is no very difficult matter to suppose 
 that many of my Readers would have no ob- 
 jection, occasionally, to drink Gooseberry Wine, 
 when that Wine is really fine and of good quality, 
 yet, very few, I imagine, with their eyes open, 
 would quietly submit to pay treble its value, be- 
 cause sold under the title and form of cheap Cham- 
 pagne. The disclosures, therefore, which I am 
 about to make with respect to it, will, I trust, 
 prove amusing, if not serviceable, to those who 
 have hitherto so easily suffered the money to be 
 taken out of their pockets, only to fill those of the 
 advertiser of cheap Wine. It is well known as a 
 fact, to many in the trade, that, at this time, large 
 parcels of Champagnes are lying in the docks, in 
 the names of certain individuals in London, which,
 
 108 
 
 as Champagne, or in its present state, can never be 
 drank, and the intention with which such Wines 
 (which in France must have cost a mere trifle), 
 have been sent to this country, cannot be mistaken. 
 
 To illustrate, however, the object I have in 
 view, with respect to the tricks practised with this 
 Wine, (and of which I shall give an Example on a 
 small Scale, for the sake of conciseness,) let it be 
 supposed that I order in France, six dozens of the 
 poorest Champagne I can procure, and just of suf- 
 ficient quality to allow of its being admitted into 
 this country, under the name it bears. This I 
 should be able to purchase at the rate of about 
 twelve francs, or 10*. per dozen, (not at all the 
 lowest price,) the bottles, case, and freightage, 
 might stand me in about 4*. 6d. or 5*. Qd. per 
 dozen, and the landing charges and duty, 19s. per 
 dozen more. On getting it home, I immediately 
 draw the corks, and empty the bottles of their con- 
 tents into my Cape vat, and supply their places 
 with others, ready filled with the best Gooseberry 
 Wine, the corks of which, are cemented and marked 
 at the ends to resemble real Champagne, and which 
 stands me (with every expence included) in about 
 21*. per dozen. 
 
 Now, as I have the dock permit to protect it, 
 and I do not attempt to substitute this fictitious 
 Wine, except between the period on which my 
 Excise Officer last surveyed me, and the time of 
 his coming again, nor start the unsaleable Cham-
 
 109 
 
 pagne until I have sent out sufficient of my Cape 
 without permit, or used enough in any of my fo- 
 reign Wines, to admit it, so as not to cause any in- 
 crease, I am under little danger of being dis- 
 covered ; and, the more particularly, as for 
 every quantity, not exceeding one dozen, that I 
 send from my premises, of real Champagne, 
 (which is sold as of a very superior quality, and at 
 a higher price,) and for which quantity no permit 
 is required, I am able to receive into my stock, 
 in the same manner, (with regard to its being un- 
 permitted), a like number of bottles of this fic- 
 titious Wine, to all outward appearance similar to 
 that which is genuine, and without having any 
 larger proportion in stock than I have credit for, 
 or the trouble and additional expence (except 
 where a large order is to be executed) of clearing 
 home my bad Champagne. 
 
 Thus, should I be enabled, frequently, to de- 
 rive most enormous profits, because, as the quan- 
 tities which I send out of a dozen, half dozen, &c. 
 of my cheap Champagne (and in which quantities 
 it is more generally purchased), is of course the 
 Gooseberry Wine, which I have got into my 
 warehouse, without having subjected myself to the 
 extra expence of the duty, freight, and cost, &c. 
 of the indifferent Wine which I have in the docks, 
 the counterfeit Champagne, therefore, stands me 
 only in 21*. per do/en, (which is the total cost of 
 the Gooseberry Wine) and leaves me in possession
 
 110 
 
 of a profit of 42*. per dozen, that being the dif- 
 ference between the cost price of 21*. per dozen 
 and one of those at which it is advertised, viz. 63*. 
 per dozen. The lowest price of the middling* and 
 drinkable quality of Champagnes, in the London 
 Docks, and of the next class to that used for the 
 purpose I have just mentioned, is about 13 guineas 
 per case of six dozens, which, with the duty and 
 other charges, amounting to 19*. per dozen more, 
 renders the total cost of it, at 64*. 3d. per dozen. 
 How they can, therefore, advertise a Wine, as the 
 primest Champagne, at 60*. ; 63*. ; and 65*. per 
 dozen, the following Example, which applies to 
 any quantity, however large, though confined to 
 six dozens, for the sake of conciseness, will clearly 
 elucidate:
 
 Ill 
 
 EXAMPLE. 
 
 Francs s. d. L. s. d. 
 
 6 dozens of Champagne, (in- 
 
 different quality) . . . at 12 or 10. perdoz. 300 
 Expense of Bottles, Case, and 
 
 Freightage of ditto . . say at 5. 6 - 1 13 
 Duty on ditto, and Landing 
 
 charges ...... -- 19. - 5 14 
 
 Deduct 6 dozens of Cape, 10 7 
 
 supposed to be made by 
 
 this 6 dozens of bad 
 
 Champagne being put into 
 
 the Cape Vat .... - 12. - 3 12 
 Add the charge of 6 dozens 6 15 
 
 of the best Gooseberry 
 
 Wine, to supply the place 
 
 of the bad Champagne 
 
 which has been mixed with 
 
 the Cape ..... -- 21. - 660 
 
 13 1 
 20 
 
 6 doz.)261(43 4 .6d. 
 24 perdoz. 
 
 21 
 
 3 
 12 
 
 6)36(6 
 36 
 
 dozens of Champagne, at 43s. (id. is 13/.
 
 112 
 
 Thus, shall I have introduced six dozens of this 
 fictitious Wine, protected by the same dock per- 
 mit which accompanied the indifferent Champagne 
 from the docks, and which places me beyond all 
 liability of detection from any Excise Officer. 
 The Wine is sparkling, and, to the generality of 
 its consumers, appears to possess all the requisite 
 character of real Champagne ; and, aided by that 
 eager confidence which is placed on the truth 
 of the assertions contained in my captivating pla- 
 cards and advertisements, I am able to dispose of 
 this substituted and fictitious article, the total cost 
 of which, at the outside, is no more than 43s. 6d. 
 per dozen, at a cash profit of 165. 6d. if I ad- 
 vertise it at 60s. or if at 63s. per dozen, the small 
 remuneration of only 19s. Qd. per dozen. 
 
 The dangerous nature and tendency of the Wine, 
 which is occasionally puffed off to so much advan- 
 tage, by the aid of Extracts from Theoretical 
 Treatises on Wine, the introduction of a little of 
 the jargon of the numerous French agents, who 
 are constantly dunning the trade with their pro- 
 fessional disquisitions, and the never failing at- 
 traction of cheap prices, requires only to be gene- 
 rally known, to put a decided stop to a system, 
 which conceals as great a portion of fraud and im- 
 position, as exists in almost any other branch of 
 the adulterator's business, particularly as from the 
 circumstance of the Wine being: in the London 
 
 O 
 
 Docks, a greater reliance is placed on its genuine-
 
 113 
 
 ness, and the appearance of any deception is more 
 easily glossed over. 
 
 The whole of the cheap Champagnes made up 
 in France, but more immediately the cheap Still 
 Champagne, may be said to be of a kind, which, 
 from the nature of its composition, is, perhaps, 
 more highly deleterious to the health, than any other 
 Wine whatever, excepting such of the cheap Spark- 
 ling Champagnes, as are made up on the same plan, 
 with regard to some of the materials that are used. 
 
 It has been remarked by French physicians, as 
 they have occasionally been called in to attend 
 English patients, that in most cases, the indispo- 
 sition of our country men, when they are in France, 
 can only be ascribed to the Champagne which they 
 drink, and which, owing to the avidity with which 
 the English people indulge themselves in its con- 
 sumption, is not only more frequently, than other- 
 wise, supplied to them of an indifferent kind, but 
 of a sort, possessing properties which have the 
 most pernicious and injurious tendency, possible, 
 to the constitution. A little examination into the 
 nature of some of the ingredients, employed in the 
 manufacture of the cheap Still, and Sparkling 
 Champagnes, in France, will fully prove the truth 
 of their observations. 
 
 The properties of Lead, in refining some par- 
 ticular descriptions of Wines, the various quality 
 of which, as compared with that of others, is 
 widely different, (and among which, these inferior
 
 Champagnes may be ranked,) for rendering bright 
 such as have turned foul or ropy, or for preventing 
 the increase of any ascescent quality which a Wine 
 may have acquired, has been so frequently noticed 
 in previous publications, that, perhaps, any length- 
 ened discussion of its merits may be deemed super- 
 fluous. In Accum's Culinary Poisons (page 95) 
 this article is mentioned ; he says, * The most 
 dangerous adulteration of Wine, is by some pre- 
 paration of Lead, which possesses the property of 
 stopping the progress of ascescence of Wine, and 
 also of rendering White Wine, when muddy, 
 transparent ; I have good reason to state that Lead 
 is certainly employed for this purpose ; the effect 
 is very rapid, and there appears to be no other 
 method known of rapidly recovering ropy Wines. 
 Lead, in whatever state it be taken into the 
 stomach, occasions terrible diseases ; and Wine, 
 adulterated with the minutest quantity of it, be- 
 comes a slow poison.' In Watson's Chemical 
 Essays, (vol. 8, page 369,) it is stated, ' That a 
 method of adulterating Wine, with Lead, existed 
 at one time, so generally, in Paris, as to have be- 
 come quite a common practise/ In Medical 
 Essays, (vol. 2, page 80,) the consequences of the 
 use of this ingredient is related, in the case of 
 thirty-two persons, having severally become ill, 
 after drinking White Wine, that had been adul- 
 terated with Lead, and, also, that one of them be- 
 came paralytic, and another died. In Grahame's
 
 115 
 
 Treatise on Wine Making-, (page 31,) and in the 
 Vintner's Guide (4th edition, 1770, page 67,) the 
 modes and uses of its application are fully de- 
 tailed. 
 
 It has been only since the duties have been 
 lowered, that the cheap trash of Wines of all de- 
 scriptions, which we now see advertised to so great 
 an extent, has been imported, nor has it been till 
 since the demands of our London Adulterators 
 have been so great, (owing to the competition 
 amongst them for any novelty in the article of Wine, 
 calculated, in a cheap form, to aid them in carry- 
 ing on their system of imposition against the 
 Revenue and the Public, until their own pockets 
 are filled, and their customers satiated,) that the 
 vast quantities of Sparkling, and other Cham- 
 pagnes, which are annually spoiled in France, 
 from their turning vapid and ropy, have been 
 found to constitute a valuable basis, on which may 
 be re-manufactured an article exactly suited to the 
 closest views of this most worthy class of people. 
 How far a composition made up, by adding to 
 these spoiled Wines a portion of the low Wines, 
 from the indifferent vineyards, or of the ' third qua- 
 lity Wine,' which 1 have described in my remarks 
 on Claret, (the whole undergoing a fresh fermenta- 
 tion, and receiving the action of some strong chemi- 
 cal agent, in order to destroy the vapidity, preci- 
 pitate the ropiness, and give to the whole a face,)
 
 116 
 
 may be estimated as a Wine, evidently depends 
 only upon the skill of the advertiser, in rendering 
 his advertisements attractive, as this process com- 
 prises the manufacture of the article, of Champagne, 
 alluded to, as that which is offered to the Public 
 at so cheap a rate. That no great art is required 
 to make this mixture bear a resemblance to 
 Still Champagne, must be pretty obvious, and I 
 doubt not from the following more particular re- 
 view, of the manner, in which the operations, I 
 have just partially described, are carried on in 
 France, quite as clear an inference will be drawn 
 of the ease, with which Sparkling Champagne is 
 revived out of that, which had been considered 
 useless and unwholesome. 
 
 The whole of the vapid, ropy Wines, and such 
 as in any other way may have become spoiled, are 
 specially collected together for the purpose, by the 
 Wine Factor, and after selecting from them, those 
 which, from their condition, are capable of being 
 re-converted into saleable Sparkling Champagne, 
 they are thrown into separate reservoirs. A por- 
 tion of third quality Wine, of each kind, and of 
 the last vintage, is then added to refresh them ; a 
 partial re-fermentation is occasioned in that in- 
 tended to represent the prime Still Champagne, 
 -which renders it of a dryer character, and destroys 
 any latent tendency to retain fixed air, and the ap- 
 plication, to both, of strong chemical agents, in
 
 order to refine, and reduce them to ti fit state for 
 bottling, at once finishes the manufacture of these 
 delectable mixtures. 
 
 That one of the chemical agents, which is used if 
 not most carefully applied, must be highly delete- 
 rious, I am satisfied of, from my being already ac- 
 quainted with two instances, in which some indivi- 
 duals were made ill, and the cheap Champagne they 
 had been drinking, found, on analization, to contain 
 a portion of Lead, in its worst form ; and were the 
 cases, which must frequently, in a greater, or less 
 degree, occur, to be made Public, by the sufferers 
 themselves, a most beneficial result would, proba- 
 bly, ensue to the community at large. 
 
 The prices paid to the Frenchmen, for these two 
 descriptions of prime Champagne, is at the rate of 
 about eighteen francs, or 15*. per dozen, the cost 
 of the bottles, case, and freightage, at about 5s. 6d. 
 and the duty, and landing charges, 19*'. per dozen 
 more, making a total cost of only 39*. 6d. per 
 dozen. The profits, I leave my Readers to es- 
 timate. 
 
 Before, however, I conclude this Treatise, and 
 in order to leave no part of the ground unturned, 
 it may, perhaps, be necessary to render some ge- 
 neral account of the method, by which several of 
 our Advertising Dealers are able to placard up 
 other cheap Wines, in dock, because it is a scheme 
 which conceals an additional imposture, with
 
 118 
 
 which it is expedient, that every one should be made 
 acquainted. Many people imagine that, by pur- 
 chasing" Wines, (no matter of whom,) so long as 
 they are in docks, where there is no opportunity 
 for adulteration, they must necessarily be of good 
 quality. This is by no means the case, and I firmly 
 believe, several persons have found it so to their 
 cost; because, it often happens, with the description 
 of Wines, for which such low prices are quoted, 
 that the quality, even of such as are made up, and 
 manufactured of spurious ingredients at home, is 
 superior in body and taste. 
 
 At the time the last reduction in the duties took 
 place, some hundreds of pipes of Wine, lying in 
 the London Docks, and never considered of value 
 sufficient, to pay the then rate of duty, viz. 64/. per 
 pipe, were immediately bought np by interested 
 individuals, for a purpose by no means difficult 
 to understand. The characters of some of these 
 Wines, were such, as to hold out the presumption, 
 that if they were moved, and the lees disturbed in 
 them, their transit to something of the nature of 
 vinegar, would be extremely rapid ; others con- 
 sisted of nothing more than a compound of thin 
 meagre flavorless Wine, with a large portion of bad 
 Brandy, the whole, however, to be purchased for a 
 very few pounds, and of parties glad to get rid of 
 them on any terms. Lately, and only since the dis- 
 turbances have taken place in Portugal, a vast quan-
 
 119 
 
 tity * of Figuera and other interior Wines have been 
 smuggled into Oporto, for exportation to England, 
 although, to prevent the illicit traffic, which this is 
 considered to be, by the Portuguese Government, the 
 utmost power had been vested in the hands of the 
 Royal Oporto Wine Company, and, from the mea- 
 sures adopted by it, the purpose had always been fully 
 effected, until the period when the unsettled state of 
 the country almost threatened the demolition of 
 Oporto, and suspended the jurisdiction, of a great 
 part of its authorities. The principal portion of these 
 Figuera Wines, which were then, with some degree 
 of security, purloined into Oporto, and its immediate 
 neighbourhood, have since been shipped to this coun- 
 try, under Oporto bills of lading ; and, by means of 
 the quibble which is afforded by such a document, 
 they are now offered, by dishonest English Wine 
 Merchants, as genuine Port Wines, although known 
 by them to be what they really are. The total 
 cost of these Figuera Wines, including the duty, 
 does not exceed 45/. per pipe, and the admirable 
 use to which they can be applied, independently of 
 the assistance they afford in manufacturing fic- 
 titious Port Wine, in stock, will presently be seen. 
 A similar practise to that just described, is also 
 carried on with respect to cheap Sherry. The 
 Malaga Wines, which are the production of a 
 
 h The total number of pipes of these Figuera Wines, which 
 have been smuggled ii/to Oporto, as described, in some accounts is 
 said to exceed 4000. 
 
 I 2
 
 120 
 
 pfoce, bearing the same name, and situated some 
 degrees to the east of Cadiz, and the districts* 
 where the real Sherries are grown, by a little ma- 
 nagement on the part of some of our Spanish Mer- 
 chants, have been, and still are, shipped in no in- 
 considerable quantities to this country, under 
 Cadiz bills of lading, as if (as far as their article is 
 concerned), their efforts to impose on the British 
 Public, through the medium of our advertisers, 
 should be out-rivalled by none. 
 
 The objects to which the whole of these precious 
 Wines are, and have been, applied, by our Ad- 
 vertising Dealers, are two-fold, the first as a cheap 
 article, to combine with others in their large Wine 
 vats, the second, to act as decoy ducks. Since the 
 law, with regard to quarter casks, has been brought 
 into operation, by a representation to the London 
 Dock Company, leave can be obtained, to rack in the 
 docks, either one hogshead, into two quarter casks, 
 or, one pipe, into two hogsheads, which, therefore, if 
 they please, enables our cheap sellers to offer the 
 same enticement to different classes of buyers. It 
 should, however, be observed, that as decoy ducks 
 alone, and not for any purpose of sale, are a great 
 portion of these wretched Wines intended, because, 
 if the advertiser, could even prevail on his customers 
 to become purchasers, he would be at the loss of 
 two great advantages, the first, that of having 
 their assistance in manufacturing his vat Wine, 
 and secondly, their possession as a means of con-
 
 121 
 
 tinning a temptation, for the public to enter his re- 
 ceptacle. 
 
 A person applies to a Wholesale Dealer, or a 
 Gin-shop-keeper, who has a Wholesale License in 
 addition to his Retail one, and who may have a 
 placard up, announcing 1 cheap Wines to be sold in 
 dock, and requests an order to taste them. The 
 seller manages to provide him also, with an order, 
 or two, for some other Wines, a little higher in 
 price, the consequence is, the purchaser tastes the 
 whole, finds a material difference, calls again on 
 the seller, and is either persuaded to take a cask 
 of that, at the advanced price, or else, to be supplied 
 out of one of the large IVine vats, on the same 
 terms as stated for the lowest quality of those in 
 dock, being assured that it is a similar description 
 of Wine, only improved so much, by lying in so 
 great a body. 
 
 Thus, we see that whether the operations of our 
 placarders and advertisers, be confined to the art of 
 adulteration, that of displaying in their advertise- 
 ments to the greatest advantage, the superior qua- 
 lifications, they so modestly claim to themselves, 
 above all other dealers, in the knowledge and mode 
 of purchasing, and disposing of Wines and Spirits,, 
 in deceiving the Public with pompous offers, (the 
 conditions of which, however, are so framed, that 
 only one point of law is given to their customers, 
 whilst the sum of the remaining nine, viz. pos- 
 session of the cash, is retained by themselves), or
 
 in conducting 1 any minor impositions, in the sale 
 of their goods, the most consummate address is 
 displayed. 
 
 In submitting 1 , as 1 have done, these various 
 facts to the notice, and for the benefit, of my 
 Readers, it has by no means been my intention to 
 implicate the whole of any class of Dealers, for 
 the delinquency of a part, nor that part, any further 
 than supported by clear and distinct evidence. 
 Such evidence I have afforded, nor can this, there- 
 fore, be said to apply to any Dealer, whether Re- 
 tail and Wholesale, or Wholesale exclusively, who, 
 although, announcing the sale of Wines, yet, from 
 his scale of prices, may fairly be allowed the sup- 
 position, that though, perhaps, not of the finest 
 quality, they are at least unadulterated. Neither 
 can it be permitted to refer to that class, known bv 
 the denomination of Publicans, individuals, who 
 possess what are termed Brewer's houses, and than 
 whom, (speaking of the majority,) no description of 
 men, are so much oppressed and borne down, 1 may 
 say, to a degree that would almost render the 
 term of Brewer's slaves,* more applicable lo them, 
 
 * A man, who has, perhaps, saved 400/. or 5007. is persuaded 
 by one of the Brewer's myrmidons, specially employed for the 
 purpose, to take a house which may be to be let, the value of a 
 lease on which, he is informed, is about 20007. Under the pros- 
 pect of the great advantages represented to him, and the induce- 
 ment that the Brewer will accommodate him, by advancing the re- 
 quisite sum, besides what he can spare himself, to make up the 
 purchase money, the man is prevailed upon to take it; first of all,
 
 123 
 
 in their present state, than any other, and would 
 almost justify, on their part, if any thing can jus- 
 tify, the very mode of procedure, which I have 
 been exposing to reprobation. The contents of 
 
 however, executing a deed of assignment of the lease, to be held 
 by the Brewer, as security ; together with a bond in judgment, on 
 the whole of his furniture, and other properly, as another gua- 
 rantee for a large additional sum, for which the man lias received 
 no value, but which is considered necessary to prevent all chance 
 of loss to the Brewer. 
 
 With the little remaining money, which the poor Publican may 
 have left of that, from which he has paid for the fixtures of the 
 house, and- as deposit for the lease, he lias to defray the whole of 
 the expenses of drawing up the lease, bond, and all oilier ne- 
 cessary documents, and after he has paid, besides, half the charges 
 of the broker, for his valuation, the same proportion of the fees of 
 the Broad Cooper, and Guagers, &c, (servants of the Brewer) 
 which fees usually amount, as the incomers share, to the sum of 
 three or four guineas to each j and in addition to which, he is ex- 
 pected to be at half the expense of furnishing the. whole of the 
 party with a handsome dinner and plenty of Wine, he is allowed to 
 remain in quiet possession. If his payments do not happen to be 
 altogether regular in amount, the Broad Cooper, or some other 
 servant of the Brewer, enters the house, without any notice, de- 
 mands the key of the cellar, and proceeds to take an account of 
 his stock of beer, in order to ascertain if he has paid according to 
 the quantity he has sold. If the Brewers choose to lower the 
 price of their commodity, a notice is sent round to each of their 
 Publicans, directing them immediately to lower the prices of their 
 beer as well, no matter what stock they may have on hand at the 
 time, and woe be to him, that hesitates to do so. If the con- 
 sumption of beer happens to fall off, without reference to what the 
 cause may be, or however deserving the man, a representation is 
 made to the Brewer and his partners, in full committee, by the 
 managing clerk, (whose favour, be it remarked, is of the utmost 
 consequence, and his own individual importance not less so),
 
 124 
 
 this Treatise can only point to the cheap Ad- 
 vertisers and Placarders of Wines and Spirits, 
 who, by plausible assertions, and high-sounding 1 
 pretensions, (as empty as they are pompous,) en- 
 orders are issued, and before the man has, perhaps, been in the 
 house twelve months, (if it so happen), his goods are seized by the 
 warrant of attorney; his lease retained possession of by the deed 
 of assignment; the other creditors are cheated out of llieir just 
 claims, of a share in the proceeds of the estate; ami the poor man, 
 who has lost his all, is sent to prison, irretrievably ruined. Whe- 
 ther an alteration is not required here, and by what other title, as 
 truly applicable, the majority of this class of Dealers can be dis- 
 tinguished, I leave to the judgments of my Readers. It is quite 
 time, some remedy should be proposed in the House of Commons, 
 and in a way, in which it could be uninfluenced by the Brewers, 
 who are members of that house, to diminish an evil of so gross a 
 nature. 
 
 Independently, however, of the hardships which this system 
 enforces on the poor Publican, he is subject to others, by no 
 means, less severe in their operation as regards his interests, nor 
 less unjust to his situation as a member of society. One of 
 these hardships, in particular, it becomes necessary to make known 
 to the Reader, as it, in a great measure, comprehends and points 
 out the difference which exists between what are termed Public- 
 houses, and such as are distinguished by the appellation of Gin- 
 shops. The original intention of all Inns, Public-houses, Liquor- 
 shops, &c. was, that they should be houses for accommodating 
 travellers, and labourers, with rest and refreshment. Our modern 
 Gin-shops, however, and particularly those on a large scale, pos- 
 sess no qualification of the kind, nor do they offer any, but from 
 the temptations, which are held out by their proprietors, for the 
 subversion of the morals of tlie lower classes, by facilitating the 
 sale only of Spirits, to the exclusion of the more wholesome be- 
 verage of Porter, the means of doing which, (as they are compelled 
 to have the latter article in stock), they attain, by keeping; it so 
 bad, or sour, as to be quite undrinkaMe ; not only is the end, al- 
 luded to, fully accomplished, but the Publican, who is, or ought to
 
 125 
 
 deavour to cheat the Public, and enrich themselves. 
 My object has, alone, been to expose the tricks, by 
 which fraudulent dealers are enabled to cover the 
 system of adulteration and imposition they practise, 
 and which they induce the Public to patronize, 
 only by the effectual aid, which is afforded them, 
 by the extraordinary low prices they are (as I have 
 shown) so well qualified to advertise, and through 
 
 be made, the only legitimate retailer, is materially injured in his 
 business. Thus, a labouring man will now, at his usual dinner 
 hour, call at a Public-house, (the keeper of which dare not refuse 
 him entrance), in order to cook his victuals at tlie Tap-room fire, 
 for which no charge is made, although, as some remuneration, and 
 which is the least that can be expected, he probably purchases a 
 pint, or half pint of Porter, the total profit on which, is about one 
 penny. No sooner, however, is his dinner concluded, than from 
 the superior attraction offered in the article of Spirits, he imme- 
 diately resorts to a Gin-shop, very likely, situated within a few 
 doors of the poor Publican, and, as is generally the case, without 
 even so much as a seat, on which to sit down. Here, the labourer 
 partakes of his two or three glasses of Gin, out of which the Gin- 
 shop-keeper clears a profit, nearly equal to the whole amount 
 which has been received by the Publican, although the latter deals 
 in precisely the same articles, and has to afford the greatest ac- 
 commodation, without any extra charge. To so great a length, 
 indeed, has the evil, inflicted by these Gin-shops, arrived, that, 
 with few exceptions, it is now only by those persons who hold 
 leases under Brewers, that the Public-houses so held, have not 
 been converted into Gin-shops, or the necessary and proper ac- 
 commodation, discontinued to the poorer classes of the community. 
 It is, also, a singular fact, that in the late depreciation of pro- 
 perty, it has been only the Public houses, that have so materially 
 suffered, Gin-shops, still maintaining the enormous prices, -which 
 the value they have acquired, by the means I have shown, enables 
 their proprietors to obtain.
 
 126 
 
 the medium of which, it is not only the supplying 
 of spurious and deleterious articles, for which con- 
 siderably more is paid than they are really worth, 
 and filling their own pockets by practises so dis- 
 reputable, but undermining-, as well, the very sub- 
 sistence of those, who are too honest to descend to 
 such means for obtaining a livelihood. It is to 
 the individuals only, who, from outward circum- 
 stances, evidently follow such practises, that the 
 fact of the disgraceful proceedings 1 have detailed, 
 being carried into execution, can be attributed. 
 
 That I have advanced no more than the plain 
 truth, the numerous convictions which have taken 
 place under the Excise Laws, for adulterating 
 Wines and Spirits, or for imposing in any other 
 way on the Revenue and the Public, with respect to 
 those articles, would fully evidence, and in a list of 
 which, it would be found, that the Dealers, whose 
 practises I have exposed, form, by far, the largest 
 majority, although, I have forborne obtaining and 
 publishing that list, lest, from the individuals whose 
 names it contains, my motives in offering this 
 Treatise to Public notice, should be misconstrued, 
 and supposed to be, of a personal and malignant 
 nature. 
 
 From the facts and arguments, alone, which I 
 have submitted, I leave the Public to gather some 
 idea of the extent, to which these fraudulent adul- 
 terations have been, and still are, practised, with 
 the honest conviction, that should they appear of
 
 127 
 
 sufficient weight, to induce many to apply where 
 the genuine article is sold at a moderate price, a 
 more effectual stop, would be put to this most un- 
 justifiable system, than could, perhaps, be done by 
 any other method whatever. 
 
 Should it be urged, in reply to these facts, by 
 any of the class to whom what I have here stated 
 applies, that I have divulged secrets which ought 
 strictly to have been confined to the Trade, 1 an- 
 swer, that by no honest Wine Merchant (such an 
 one, who makes the quality and genuineness of his 
 goods, and the moderation of his prices, the test 
 of his respectability), are the different materials for 
 adulterating, and the method of their application, 
 with which he may have become acquainted, from 
 long intercourse with all classes of Dealers, con- 
 sidered by any means secrets, either as belong- 
 ing to the trade, or worth the keeping; and al- 
 though, the reasons which induce me to publish 
 this Treatise anonymously, will be better esti- 
 mated, by those in the trade, or, who are more inti- 
 mately acquainted with the description of people, 
 from whose guilty practises I have removed the 
 veil, yet, as to all persons, in a greater or less de- 
 gree, it must be evident, that in an open discussion, 
 in which the class alluded to, have nothing to lose, 
 but a source of profit unworthy of honest men, and 
 which, besides, is calculated, whether as a means 
 of conveying fresh advertisements of their pre- 
 tensions to the Public, as an extra opportunity for
 
 128 
 
 puffing off an additional portion of their adul- 
 terated trash, or, in other respects, so much to 
 answer their purpose, and which, to me, can pos- 
 sibly produce no similar result, the same estima- 
 tion, without any impeachment of my motives, 
 will, I trust, be formed by every individual, into 
 whose hands this publication may fall. 
 
 To refute the substance of that which I have 
 stated, would be no easy task the whole of my 
 arguments are deduced from facts the facts speak 
 for themselves the conclusions I leave to my 
 Readers and the Public. In submitting this state- . 
 ment, I consider I have fulfilled no more than a 
 duty to my fellow-citizens, and that it, therefore, 
 may operate as some check to the wrong which is 
 done them, and as a lesson to the perpetrators of 
 the wicked and fraudulent practises il details, is the 
 sincere prayer of 
 
 A WELL-WISHER TO HONEST TRADERS.
 
 LONDON: 
 
 JAMEf ROIIINS AND CO. IVT LANE, 1> A C Kit NOUTRH BOW.
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 Page 7, line 8, for principles, read principle. 
 
 Page 28, line 9, for that, read this. 
 
 Page 30, line 15, for Rums, read .Rum. 
 
 Page 51, line 1, for that, read which. 
 
 Page 57, line 18, for it, read them. 
 
 Page 57, line 19, for it, read they. 
 
 Page 84, line 14, for qualities, read quantities. 
 
 Page 95, line 27, for articles, read article.
 
 jirui ihiMirattone 
 
 BY JAMES ROBINS AND CO. IVY LANE, PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON. 
 
 I. 
 
 THE POCKET MAGAZINE. ROBINS'S New Series of ARLISS'S long established 
 work is published monthly, price Sixpence, regularly embellished with Engravings on Steel 
 in the first style of the art by C. HEATH, C. ROLLS, &c- and on Wood by THOMPSON, after 
 H. CORBOULD, G. CRUIKSHANK, and other eminent Artists. The Literary Department 
 possesses considerable novelty, originality, and talent, and is adapted to the present im- 
 proved state of knowledge. 
 
 A fine edition, with proof impressions on India paper, price One Shilling. 
 
 II. 
 
 MORE MORNINGS AT BOW STREET, a New Series of the most humorous 
 
 and entertaining Reports, by JOHN WIGHT, of the Morning Herald. With a Frontis- 
 piece, and twenty-five Illustrations by /JEORGE CKUIKSHANK. 10s. fid. A few copies are 
 printed on India paper, price 15s. 
 India and plain impressions of the Cuts may be had separately, price 10s. 6d. and 6s. 
 
 III. 
 
 POINTS OF HUMOUR, illustrated by a Series of Designs, by GEORGE CIUJIK- 
 SHANK, on Copper and Wood. Part 1, Royal 8vo. price 8s. j coloured 12s. 6d.; and India 
 proofs 12s. 6d. 
 
 IV. 
 
 ECCENTRIC TALES, from the German of W. F. VON KOSEWITZ. Contain- 
 ing twenty coloured Illustrations by GEORGE CRUIKSHANK, from Sketches by ALFRED 
 CROWQUILL. Price 15s. 
 
 V. 
 
 GREENWICH HOSPITAL, a Series of NAVAL SKETCHES descriptive of 
 the Life of a Man-of-War's-Man, by an OLD SAILOR. Printed in demy 4to. with Twelve 
 characteristic Illustrations on Copper by GEORGB CRUIKSHANK, coloured in Costume, in 
 addition to numerous Engravings on Wood, price One Guinea, boards. 
 
 ' In compliment lothe inexhaustible talent and drol- form, with the addition of the artist's merry, grotesque, 
 
 lery of George Cruikshank, we have put thisarticle at 
 the head of our department of the Fine Arts; and it 
 well deserves that grace. Yet it must not be fancied 
 that we mean to derogate from the literary merits of 
 the "old Sailor," whose Smotlet-like humour and 
 genuine nautical characteristics so often occupied that 
 portion of the Literary Gazette in which we endeavour 
 to lighten and enliven its graver pages. Indeed, these 
 Tales (or the far greater number of them) now so 
 cleverly brought together, wejie originally printed in 
 our columns; where they obtained so much popularity, 
 as to lead to their being republished in this collected 
 
 and laughable designs ' Literary Gazelle. 
 
 ' The Author is an Old Sailor; but there is about 
 him' a freshness and vigour that evince, in every page, 
 the man of mind.' Dublin and London Magazine. 
 
 ' Cruikshank's inimitable drawings will inflame the 
 instant curiosity of all the amateurs in favour of the 
 book. ..The Siories are told with all that native hu- 
 mour and harmless though occasionally rude merri- 
 ment that are so characteristic of a brave sailor.... 
 The ' old Sailor" can excite our heartiest laugh and 
 move us even to tears : what can we say more in 
 testimony of his powers;' News of Literature. 
 
 VI. 
 
 HANS OF ICELAND, a Tale, with four highly finished Etchings by GEORGK 
 CRUIKSHANK. Price 7s. 6d. 
 
 ' Some say this monster was a witch, 
 
 Some say he was a devil.' Dragon of Wantley. 
 
 'Really Hans of Iceland is altogether one of the best productions of its class which we have seen. There is a 
 power about it resembling one of Fuseli's pictures, and Cruikshank's design? are capital.' Literary Gazette. 
 
 VJI. 
 
 TALES OF IRISH LIFE, illustrative of the Manners, Customs, and Condition 
 of the People, collected during a residence of several years in various parts of Ireland, 
 with Illustrations by GEORGE CRUIKSHANK. In 2 vols. price 12s. 
 
 There is much matter worthy of earnest national 
 attention in these fictions; while, at the same time, 
 they are characteristic and amusing.' Literary Gazette. 
 
 ' It would, we imagine, be no slight constraint upon 
 the will of any man of taste to read one tale out of the 
 sixteen, without reading all.' European Magazine. 
 
 ' The designs of George Cruikshank, in this work, 
 are sufficient to render any tales immortal.' British 
 Press. 
 
 'A hue of nature pervades them an air of reality 
 invests them, life, actual life, is stamped upon the 
 incidents and upon the characters.' Dublin Morning 
 Register. 
 
 ' These volumes are calculated to do much good. 
 Dublin and London Magazine. 
 
 'We recommend the whole 10 the perusal of our 
 readers, as highly worthy of their attention.' Critical 
 Gazette. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 MY GRANDMOTHER'S GUESTS AND THEIR TALES. By HENR? 
 
 SLINGSBY. In 2 vols. post 8vo. price 16s. extra boards. 
 
 The introductory frame work to the Tales is a 
 smart and amusing piece of writing, and the Tales 
 themselves are various and interesting.' Literary 
 . Gazette. 
 
 ' The interest is well sustained throughout each story, 
 and the author has executed his work with equal 
 elegance and spirit.' News of Literature. 
 
 ' All are entertaining, and form a most agreeable 
 miscellany.' World of Fashion. 
 
 1 We have seldom seen an author who writes in so 
 many different styles with so much merit.' Ladies' 
 Pocket Magazine. 
 
 'The author'shappy versatility of genius enables him 
 to shift " from grave to gay, from lively to severe," and 
 to be equally successful in his tragic and comic efforts.' 
 New Times. 
 
 ' The writer knows how to excite the feelings and 
 please the imagination.' Ladies' Museum.
 
 2 Neu Publications by James Rabins und Co. Ivy Lane, Paternoster Row. 
 
 IX. 
 
 THE CABINET OF PORTRAITS, a Collection of authentic likenesses of the 
 most celebrated characters of every Age and Nation, finely engraved by Cooper, Freeman, 
 Meyer, Picart, Scriven, Thomson, and other eminent artists, after Kneller, Vandyke, 
 Harlow, Beechey, Shee, &c. &c. With Biographical Sketches, by ROBERT SCOTT, ESQ. 
 author of ' The History of the Reign of George the Third,' &c. 
 
 On the utility of the study of Biography, and the pleasing accompaniment of au- 
 thentic Portraits, it would be superfluous to expatiate. Portrait collecting has become ;i 
 favourite pursuit with so large a portion of the well informed, that a series like that now 
 offered, combining superior execution with inferior price, must be appreciated. It is pub- 
 lishing in Parts, each containing five prints, price in foolscap 8vo. 2s. 6d. ; demy 8vo. 4s. ; 
 Quarto proofs 7s. Single portraits njay he had at 8d. Is, and Is. 6d. each. 
 
 The following are already published, or in the hands of the Engravers: 
 
 Addison, Canova, 
 
 Dorset, 
 
 Hervey, Newton, Sir I. Sliakspeare 
 
 Bacon, Chaucer, 
 
 Doyle, 
 
 Jenner, 
 
 Nollekins, ' Shaw. 
 
 Beveridge, Cochrane, 
 
 Dryden, 
 
 Johnson, 
 
 Otway, Sheridan, 
 
 Beza, Coke, 
 
 Dugdale, 
 
 Juy, 
 
 Pope, 
 
 Sherlock, 
 
 Boyle, Corneille, 
 
 Gibbon, 
 
 Kemble, 
 
 Ralegh, 
 
 Sydney, 
 
 Brydges," i Cur ran, 
 
 Goethe, 
 
 Linnaeus, 
 
 Rees, Dr. A. 
 
 Steele, 
 
 Byron, 
 
 Darwin, 
 
 Grenville, 
 
 Mnintenon, 
 
 Rennie, 
 
 Tillotson, 
 
 Buchanan, De Genlis, Mad. 
 
 Gresham, 
 
 Moore, T. 
 
 Reynolds, 
 
 Wesley, 
 
 Burns, 
 
 De Stael, Mad. ; Harvey, 
 
 Morgan, Lady 
 
 Rousseau, 
 
 West, 
 
 Campbell, 
 
 Doddridge, Herder, 
 
 Nelson, 
 
 Rowe, 
 
 Wieland. 
 
 X. 
 
 MEMOIRS OF THE LIFE AND WRITINGS OF LORD BYRON, by 
 
 GEO. CLINTON, ESQ. with a Portrait and Forty Illustrations, by GEO. CBUIKSHANK, 13s. 
 
 passed over ; it contains forty designs, from llie ex- 
 
 Whilst Mr. Clinton appears to have diligently em 
 bodied ail that is most interesting in the numerous 
 publications which have issued from the press respect- 
 ing Lord Byron, since his decease, he has displayed 
 talent as well as genius; and in his volume will be 
 found much original criticism, written with perspicuity 
 and beauty. Another of its attractions must not be 
 
 [uisite pencil of George Cruikshank, which are worth 
 more than the price of the volume. '-Dublin Magazine- 
 4 The " Memoirs of Lord Byron" not only comprise 
 an interesting account of the life of the noble poet, but 
 the most beautiful passages in his writings.' Gentle- 
 man's Magazine. 
 
 XI. 
 
 A SECOND VOLUME OF GERMAN POPULAR STORIES, collected by 
 MM. GRIMM, from Oral Tradition. With Etchings by GEORGE CBUIKSHANK, price 7s. 
 A fourth edition of the first volume is in the Press. 
 
 This Book ought to be in the possession of the man as a curiosity, and of the child as an amusement.' - 
 New Monthly Magazine. 
 
 XII. 
 
 THE HUMOURIST ; a Chaste Collection of Entertaining Tales, Anecdotes, 
 Epigrams, Witty Sayings, &c. Original and Selected. Embellished with Forty coloured 
 Plates, Drawn and Engraved by GEORGE CRUIKSHANK. In Four Volumes, 5s. each. 
 
 A work of this description, executed in a manner 
 superior to any thing that has yet been attempted; and 
 selected with such care as to be equally worthy a place 
 in Jhe drawing room or the cottage, at the same tune 
 
 that it shall comprise the choicest effusions of wit and 
 genius; has very long been a desideratum in the lite- 
 rary world, which it is the object of the present publi- 
 cation to supply. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 NINE ILLUSTRATIONS of the POCKET MAGAZINE for 1826, drawn on 
 Stone by SEYMOUR, and printed by HULLMANDEL. Price One Shilling. 
 
 XIV. 
 HASSELL'S RIDES AND WALKS ROUND LONDON, to Thirty Miles 
 
 Extent, with 120 Plates, coloured in imitation of drawings. In 2 vols. foolscap 8vo. 
 three guineas; demy 8vo-. 51. 
 
 XV. 
 
 THE RENEGADE, from the French of M. le Vicomte D'ARLINCOURT, 2 vols. 
 
 price 12s. boards. 
 
 4 This is the work of a man of genius, and the translation has fallen into very competent hands.' Monthly 
 Magazine. 
 
 XVI. 
 
 IPSIBOE, by the Author of the ' Renegade,' 2 vols. 12s. 
 
 XVII. 
 
 THE BACHELOR OF SALAMANCA, translated from the French of M. 
 le SAGE, author of ' Gil Bias,' 'the Devil on Two Sticks,' &c. In 2 vols. 12s. boards. 
 
 XVIII. 
 
 WHICH IS THE HEROINE ? 2 vols. 12s. 
 
 XIX. 
 
 OURIKA, from the French of the Duchess de DURAS. Foolscap Svo. 3s. 
 
 xx. 
 
 THE NEWGATE CALENDAR, brought down to the year 1826, by A. KNAPP 
 aud W. BALDWIN ; with upwards of 100 Designs by ROBEKT CUUIKSHANK. In 4 vols. 
 price 6s- each, or 21 Parts at Is.
 
 New Publications by James Robins and Co- Ivy Lane, Paternoster Row. 5 
 
 XXI. 
 
 A NEW SELF-INTERPRETING TESTAMENT, containing many Thousands 
 of Parallel Passages, placed under the Text in words at length, with various readings, so 
 that die whole may be seen and read at one view. By the Rev. JOHN PLATTS, author of 
 'A New Universal Biography,' 'The Literary and Scientific Class Book,' &c. In 4 
 volumes demy 8vo. or 1 volume royal quarto, price 2i. 12s. 6d. in extra boards. 
 
 In this work the Sacred Writings 1'urnish their own interpretation, in the express language 
 of the inspired writers, which is certainly free from the objections that have been urged 
 against the circulation of the conflicting opinions of various sectarian commentators. 
 
 minister well affected lo evangelical truth, and de- 
 serves the encouragement of all who are desirous of 
 promoting Scriptura knoVledge.' Baptist's Mag. 
 
 ' The greatest merit of this work is, that it is free 
 from all sectarian bias, and is suited for ministers and 
 Christians of all denominations. This must render it 
 popular, and recommend it strongly to all who duly 
 appreciate the Scriptures.' Literary Chronicle. 
 
 ' We have for a long time wished to see a publica- 
 tion on the plan of the present. We have examined 
 the first part with much satisfaction, and feel pleasure 
 in recommending so useful a work, especially to our 
 fellow labourers.' Sunday School Teacher's Maga- 
 
 ' We cannot but approve of the design.' Evangeli- 
 cal Magazine. 
 
 ' The application of parallel passages, quoted in 
 words at length, and presenting the text with a com- 
 ment in the express language of the inspired writers, 
 is convincingly the best method of interpretation. 
 Literary Gazette. 
 
 'There cannot be a dissentient opinion on the uti- 
 lity of a work of this nature, and great praise must be 
 attached to the laborious student who completes it. . . 
 We congratulate the public on the appearance of a 
 work which will supply a great desideratum in the 
 divinity library.' Literary Register. 
 
 'This appears to be the laborious compilation of a 
 
 XXII. 
 
 LECTURES ON THE PSALMS, by the late REV. JOHN EWART, A. M. 
 
 3 Volumes, Octavo, U. 11s. 6d. 
 
 XXIII. 
 
 LEWIS'S CATECHISMS of the ARTS and SCIENCES, price 6d. each. The 
 cheapest and most useful elementary works in the English Language, Embellished with 
 many hundreds of Engravings, and arranged on a plan which obviates the objection to a 
 number of superfluous questions, whilst at the same time they may be used catechetically 
 if desired. The Parts already published, each of which is complete in itself, comprise 
 
 Architecture, 
 
 Astronomy, 
 
 Mechanics, 
 
 Natural History of Man, 
 
 Optics, 
 Acoustics, 
 Magnetism, 
 &c. 
 
 Natural History of Beasts, Entomology, 
 
 Ornithology, Hydrostatics, 
 
 Amphibia, Pneumatics, 
 
 Ichthyology, Hydraulics, 
 
 No. 18, containing ELECTRICITY and GALVANISM, is in the Press. 
 XXIV. 
 
 LEWIS'S CATECHISMS of ANIMATED NATURE, the cheapest and most com- 
 prehensive Natural History extant, embellished with innumerable Engravings, 4s. 6d. bds. 
 
 XXV. 
 
 LEWIS'S ENGLISH GRAMMAR. 3s. boards. 
 
 XXVI. 
 
 RATIONAL STENOGRAPHY, or SHORT HAND MADE EASY. By the Rev. 
 
 J. NIGHTINGALE. Price 2s. 6d. 
 XXVII. 
 
 MRS. LANFEAR'S LETTERS TO YOUNG LADIES on their Entrance into 
 the World, to which are added Sketches from Real Life, with a Frontispiece, 4s. 6d. bds. 
 
 ' This volume contains much friendly and wholesome 
 advice; and if those young ladies, for whose perusal 
 it seems chiefly designed, were to reduce its admoni- 
 
 tions to practice, they would experience the advantage 
 when engaged in the active concerns of life.' Imperial 
 Magazine. 
 
 XXVIII. 
 
 THE HISTORY OF THE REIGN OF GEORGE THE THIRD, in Con- 
 
 tinuation of HUME and SMOLLETT, by ROBERT SCOTT Esq. In 4 vols. 8vo. with a fine 
 portrait by MJSYER, '21. 2s. 
 
 XXIX. 
 
 POCKET EDITION OF SCOTT'S REIGN OF GEORGE THE THIRD, 
 
 5 vols. I/. 5s. with 30 fine Engravings. 
 XXX 
 
 HUISH'S HISTORY OF THE CORONATION of KINO GEORCK IV. 7s. 6d. 
 
 XXXI 
 
 NIGHTINGALE'S REPORT OF THE TRIAL OF QUEEN CAROLINE, 
 
 in 3 vols. with Engravings, price 2 Guineas. 
 XXXII. 
 
 THE NAVAL CHRONICLE, complete in 40 Volumes. A few remaining 
 
 Copies may be had for 151. each. 
 
 XXXIII . 
 
 ROBINS'S BRITISH ATLAS, comprising Forty-five Maps on Royal Quarto, 
 
 accurately Engraved by NEELE, from the latest Surveys, and finely coloured, 2 Guineas. 
 
 XXXIV. 
 
 DR. EVANS'S GENERAL ATLAS, 12s. half bound, coloured.
 
 4 New Publieationt ly James Robint and Co. Ivy Lane, PaternoHer Row. 
 
 XXXV. 
 
 WONDERFUL CHARACTERS, comprising Memoirs and Anecdotes of the 
 most remarkable Persons of every Age and Nation; collected from Authentic Sources, by 
 HENRY WILSON. In Svols. 8vo. price ll. 17s. 6d. or 12 Parts at 3s. Embellished with 
 Fifty Characteristic Engravings, accurately representing those persons who have been most 
 remarkably distinguished by some peculiarity of habit, or of person. 
 
 XXXVI. 
 
 BIOGRAPHIA CURIOSA ; or, Memoirs of Remarkable Characters of the 
 Reign of George the Third. With their Portraits. Printed on Royal Octavo, and em- 
 bellished with 48 plates, price 1 1. 11s. 6d. boards. 
 
 xxxvii. 
 
 FIFTY WONDERFUL PORTRAITS, Engraved by R. COOPER and R. PAGE. 
 
 Quarto Proofs price 11. 5s. boards. A few copies on tinted paper at the same price. 
 
 XXXVIII. 
 
 PORTRAITS OF THE KINGS OF ENGLAND, to illustrate HUME and 
 
 SMOLLETT, in 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 XXXIX* 
 
 FORTY ILLUSTRATIONS OF LORD BYRON, by GEO. CUUIKSHANK, 8vo.6s. 
 
 XL. 
 
 SHAKSPEARE'S PLAYS, with Engravings on Wood, by NESBIT after 
 
 THURSTON. 8 vols. 8vo. 4 Guineas. 
 
 XLI. 
 
 MACDONALD'S NEW LONDON FAMILY COOK, upon a Plan of Eco- 
 nomy ; comprehending Directions for Marketing, Bills of Fare for every Week in the 
 Year, a Selection of Family Recipes, &c. &c. By DUNCAN MACDONALO, late Head 
 Cook at the Bedford Tavern and Hotel, Covent Garden. With 11 Engravings ; 10s. 6d. 
 
 XLII. 
 
 THE NEW BRITISH TRAVELLER, OB MODERN PANORAMA OP ENGLAND 
 
 AND WALES, by JAMES DUGDALE, LL. D. with numerous Views, and a complete country 
 Atlas. In about SO Parts, Quarto, price 4s. each. 
 
 XLIII. 
 
 DR. HUGHSON'S HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF LONDON and 
 
 its Environs, to the extent of Thirty Miles. In 30 Parts, at 2s. 6d. common, or 5s. fiue 
 paper, with 300 Engravings on Copper and Wood. 
 
 XL1V. 
 
 THE REPOSITORY OF MODERN LITERATURE, consisting of Choice 
 
 Selections and Original Communications from eminent Authors. In 2 vols. price ll. 4s. 
 with 1 00 Engravings ; or in Parts, at 2s. 
 
 XLV 
 
 THE WORKS OF JOSEPHUS, THE' JEWISH HISTORIAN, Translated 
 
 bj Whiston, with Notes, Parallel Texts, Index, &c. by the Rev. S. BURDER, Author of 
 ' Oriental Customs,' &c. In ten parts, 5s. each, with 30 Engravings. 
 
 XLVl. 
 
 THE LIFE OF THE REV. JOHN WESLEY, A. M. by DR. COKE and MR. 
 
 MOORE, with seven portraits, &c. 8vo. 12s. 6d. 
 XLVII. 
 
 EMBLEMS, DIVINE AND MORAL, by FRANCIS QUARLES. A New Edition, 
 
 carefully revised and corrected, with Glossarial Notes, by the Rev. R. WILSON, A. M. In 
 2 vols. foolscap 8vo. with 80 Copperplate Engravings, price 10s. 6d. 
 
 XLVIII. 
 
 THE FULFILMENT OF SCRIPTURE PROPHECIES on NATIONS and 
 
 KINGDOMS, exemplified in a remarkable manner, in an Epitome of the History of the World, 
 from the Creation to the Advent of the Messiah, by JOHN HOYLAND. In 2 vols. 
 
 The late Bishop of Llandaff, in a letter to the Author, says. ' I have read the whole work carefully, and 
 think it extremely well calculated to be of essential service to all persons, but especially those whose educa- 
 tion in Scripture history has been neglected.' 
 
 XLIX. 
 
 SUICIDE AND ITS ANTIDOTES, by the Rev. S. PIGGOTT, with Frontispiece, 7*. 
 
 L. 
 THE NEW WHOLE DUTY OF MAN, I2rao. 5s. 
 
 LI. 
 DR. JOHNSON'S ENGLISH DICTIONARY. In J6 Parts, Quarto, at 5s. 
 
 LII. 
 
 WALKER'S PRONOUNCING DICTIONARY. In 12 Parts, at Is. each. 
 
 LIII. 
 THE NEW BANKRUPT ACT, divested of legal Phraseology, Is.
 
 Y/\ 
 
 W\ 
 
 WW 
 
 /W 
 
 WW 
 
 /\/\ 
 
 V7V7 
 
 / V / wi 
 
 W 
 / 
 
 W 
 / 
 
 W 
 '/ 
 
 \/ 
 /\ 
 
 \ / 
 
 \ 
 
 
 
 W 
 W 
 
 W 
 V 
 
 \/ 
 /\ 
 
 / 
 
 \B 
 / \ 
 
 /\/\ 
 V/A/ 
 
 wi 
 
 /\ 
 
 W 
 /v 
 w 
 /\ 
 
 w 
 
 /v 
 
 }< 
 
 m 1 
 
 ^ " AA 
 
 * 
 
 /V 
 \ 7 
 
 \/ \/\/ 
 
 /I ' \ / 
 
 J 
 
 \/V/\/ 
 /\/\/\ 
 
 WWW 
 / A / \ / \ 
 
 v j % j v j