r V LIBRARY CALlF<'-'RNiA SAN OlEGO y THE WAR: THE DE.\TH OF LORD RAGLAN TO THE EVACUATION" OF THE CRIMEA. Lomlciu.-. &.Romie3^e SrCfFarringian. Street. THE W A E. W '^ BY W. H. RUSSELL, COEEESPONDENT OF " THE TIMES." FROM THE DEATH OF LORD RAGLAN TO THE EVACUATION OF THE CRIMEA. FEINTED BY PERMISSION, LONDON: G. ROUTLEDGE & CO., EARRINGDON STREET. NEW YORK : 18, BEEKMAN STEEET. 1856. LONBOIT: SATTLL AND EDWARDS, PEINTEES, CHANDOS STBEET. NOTICE TO THE EEADER. This Volume contains the Letters o* the " Timei Cor- respondent" from the death of Lord Raglan to the evacu- ation of the Crimea ; and in it are included, hy permission, the contributions of two of his able colleagues at the seat of war, ivritten during Mr. Russell's absence, or from the camp on the Tchernaya. CONTENTS. PAGE OMINOUS CHANGES 1 THE CONTEST ON THE LINE OP THE TOHERNAYA 12 THE BATTLE OF THE TCHERNAYA - . . . . 54 THE LULL BEFORE THE STORM 91 THE FINAL BOMBARDMENT 126 CAPTURE OP THE MALAKHOPP AND ATTACK ON THE REDAN . . 138 DAT OF THE ASSAULT 141 CAPTURE OP SEEASTOPOL 167 THE INTERIOR OF SEBASTOPOL 173 FIRST FRUITS OF VICTORY 188 COMFORTABLE QUARTERS 204 OPPORTUNITIES NEGLECTED 214 SIGNS OP A MOVE 225 PREPARATIONS FOR AN EXPEDITION 242 OFF ODESSA 263 THE CAPTURE OP KINBURN 287 THE BUG AND THE DNIEPER 296 SEBASTOPOL ONCE MORE 311 A CATASTROPHE 334 RELAXATION 340 CAMP EMPLOYMENTS 364 DESTRUCTION OP THE DOCKS 399 THE ARMISTICE IN THE CRIMEA 410 PEACE ONCE MORE IN THE CRIMEA 428 OUR GRAVES IN THE CRIMEA, AND THE ALMA REVISITED , . 465 THE WAR. CHAPTER I. OMINOUS CHANGES. Changes caused by the death of Lord Raglan — Fresh appointments — Condition of tlie rival armies — False move ou the jiart of tlie English — The attack on the Malakholf left to the French — Jlistakes — Incapacity of General Simpson — Preparations for the assault — Omar Pasha's pro- posal — The autlior at Therapia — Sick and wounded officers — The attack on the Redan criticised — Prospect of another winter in the trenches — Cholera — Recapitulation — Position of the contending forces. During the interval that elapsed between the lamented death of Lord Raglan, on the 28th June, and the middle of the month of Jn\y, no very decided progress was made by the English in the siege approaches, and the Russians contented themselves with strenuous preparations to meet another assault. But as sickness diminished, and reinforcements and fresh supplies of material were poured into the Crimea later in the month, the allies set to work with renewed energy, and not only gained ground before Sebastopol, but began to feel their way towards the left of the enemy's position on the Belbek. At the same time they extended their oj^erations in the direction of Mangoup-Kale, and Kutchuk Sevren,first by way of reconnaissance, and finally by the establishment of standing camps of sufficient strength to dely a sudden attack l)y any force short of an army. In these operations the French performed most of the active work. They were aided to some extent by the Sar- dinians encamped at Komara, and by the Turks, who completed the friendly investment of Balaklava from the Sardinian right to the cliff's over the sea near Cape Aiya. General Simpson, on whom the command of the English army devolved, was a veteran who had seen a year's service in the Peninsula in 1812-13, and in the campaign of 1815, and who thirty years afterwards held the post of Quartermaster- General to Sir C. Napier, in his Indian war of 1845 ; and it was supposed, in spite of his own repre- VOL. II. B 2 OMINOUS CHANGES. mentations to the contrary, that he was physically and mentally able to take the command of an army which was rapidly assum- ing the tbrm and functions of a contingent in face of the rein- forcements so lavishly given to our allies. Lord Raglan had, at all events, by the dignity of his personal character, secured a position for the troops he commanded, to which they were not numerically entitled; but no one can say by what sacri- fices that position was maintained till the battle of Inlcerman forced us to abandon it. The time is not yet come for the dis- closure of all the truth, but it may even now be asked, how it was that on nth Februaiy, 1855, we abandoned our ground opposite the Malakhoft' to the rrencli, if we really knew it to be the key of the Russian position ? A change was indeed necessary, and it was evident that the English army was much too weak to occupy the space from the Dockyard Creek ravine on the left, to the valley of the Tchernaya on the right. But why, instead of allowing the French (I use that word " allowing," inasmuch as we are given to understand that ^ir John Burgoyne objected to the change,) why, instead of allowing the P^-ench to take from us the favourable ground on our right attack, did we not move to our right, and leave the French to occupy the spot held by our left, which we maintained to the end of the siege ? It seems but natm-ul that as we had defended the right of the Allied Army at Inkerman, with so much loss, and so much courage, we should have continued to occupy a position we had rendered glorious for ever. A cession of it to the French appears to be a tacit reproach to our plan of defence. By concentrating our left on our right attack, we could have readily carried on the siege works, and have preserved to ourselves the attack against the MalakhotF, which was originally opened by us on the 17th October, 1854. It is said that the French objected to take Chapman's attack, on the plea that they could not serve oui- artillery. Sir John Burgoyne then oilered that our artillery-men should be left to work the English guns ; but the objection, if ever it was made, was futile, inasmuch as at a subsequent period of the wiege the French demanded and received the loan of more than twenty-ibur 32-pounders, which they used with great vigour at the final bombardment. The compliance of Sir John Burgoyne on this point is the more to be wondered at, inasmuch as it was he who discovered the great importance of the jiosition we so readily yielded, and it was he who an- nounced that the Malakholf, of which he relinquished the attack CAUSES OP FAILUKE. 6 to our allies, was the veritable key of the whole of the defences of Sebastopol. After the 18th June, 1855, it became quite evi- dent that onr left attack was utterly useless for the purjwses of an assault, and accordingly one would have tliouglit that the whole energy of the chiefs of the British army and of the Engineers, would be directed to push on our saps in the direc- tion of the only point of attack the British army had to deal ■with, but in eli'ect the Redan was not approached much more closely by our Engineers subsequently to the 18th than it had been previousl}', and most of our efforts were directed to the augmentation of the weight and vigour of our fire from bat- teries already established, or to the strengthening of the Quarries battery, which we took on 7th of June. In fact we seemed de- termined to take the place by the fire of Artiller\' alone, and yet when the time came we combined with it an assault, which was of course an interference with, and an abandonment of that determi- nation. Although our ofiicers had the ilamelon before their €yes, they overlooked the fact that the Russians could screen a very large body of men inside their casemates and bomb- proofs, and that their garrison would suffer very little from our tire so long as it failed to search out and destroy those retreats. When the garrison of these casemates was warned, by the cessa- tion of our fire, of the coming assault, they swarmed out in masses more numerous than the assailants, who were besides broken, and almost breathless, owing to their run from the trenches, and re- pulsed them ere they reached the abattis. Whenever the Rus- sians felt our fire was overpowering them at any one particular point, they withdrev/ their guns behind tlie traverse or parapet, and trusted to the strength of their earthworks, so that it was difficult to say what was the exact effect of our cannonade upon their guns. Thus, on the 18th June, our soldiers were raked with grape and canister, from points where we had ima- gined the guns were dismounted and silenced, and it was evi- dent that our artillery had not gained that mastery over the enemies' pieces which was requisite to ensure success. We subsequently endeavoured to secxire a better chance for our troops, at the next assault, by establishing batteries to crush the flanking fire of the angles of the Redan, and of the curtains in the direction of the salient ; but our tackles broke in raising the guns, and these batteries were never armed. The arrival of Sir Harry Jones to replace Sir John Burgoyne was regarded with hope, but no change in the plan of attack was originated by that officer, nor did the b2 C: OMINOUS CHANGES. French engineers at any time appeal- to appreciate the hiiportance of the ground between them and the IMalakholi", till the Eussians significantly demonstrated the value of the Mamelcn bj- seizing upon and fortilying it in the spring of the year. Sir JIarry Jones, although younger than Sir John J3urgoyne, was not blest with the health of that veteran soldier, and for some time the works were carried on without the benefit of his personal supervision, although no one could do\ibt the ability and zeal of Colonel Gordon, E.E.. of Colonel Chapman, E.E., and of Lieut. Cowell, A.D.C., or of the numerous statl of Engineer-officers engaged upon the works. If the ground in front of our trenches and saps towards the Eedan was difficult, that through which the French di'ove their approaches close to tbe Bastion du 3fat, and notably to the Bastion Ccntrale, was literally a mass of oolite and hard rock, and our engineers will yet have to explain in the " aide memoire" what were the causes which stayed the advance of our saps, and prevented their establishing a Place d' Amies for our assaulting columns. The death of Lord Eaglaii, which produced in the army a sentiment of profound regret, and which gave to the nation at home a sensible shock, dcpfived the British army of a leader whose personal character and dignity of manner exercised considerable infiuence on the councils of the allied generals, however he might have failed to maintain the proper position of that army after the 5tli November; but General Simpson, who was appointed to succeed him, although it had been understood when he came out as Chief of the Statf that he would notbecomeCommander-in-Chief in case of avacancy,was certainly not suited to resist any pressure which our allies might think fit to apply ; and he was destitute of those acquirements and personal characteristics which in Lord Eaglan compensated for a certain apathj' and marble calmness which admirers extolled as virtues. It was believed at the time, and it is now almost notorious, that General Simpson opposed his own appointment, and bore testimony to his own incapacity, but the Government, or Lord Hardinge and Lord Panmure insisted; and General Simpson became Commander-in-Chief of the British Army. He was suc- ceeded in his post as Chief of the Staff" by an intelligent officer, Major-General Barnard ; who displayed great personal activity in his execution of its duties. The vacancy created in the Adjutant- General's Department by the lamented death of jMajor-General Estcourt was filled byColonel Pakenluini,who had been his second in command, and who was a good man of business, however defi- OUR AR3IAMENT. 5 cient in that personal courtesy and politeness which tlistinguisli the officers of the corresponding department of the French Army. The changes created by death or wounds on the 18th having thus been satisfactorily effected, tlie armj- resumed its usual attitude of laborious watchfulness in the trenches and of expecta- tion in the camp ; and for many long weeks we were amused by confident announcements that our batteries would open in " n days, u being a very small number ;" batteries were con- structed by the English and the French on the commanding points in their possession to drive away the Russian shipping which covered the front of our trenches with a deadly fire on the occasion of an assarilt, and which were handled with skill and a great deal of boldness throughout the siege. All these batteries failed in their object. The ships \ip to the last con- tinued to render able and energetic co-operation to the besieged. On the 17th June, our armament consisted of thirty 13 -inch mortars, seventeen 10-inch mortars, and eight 8-inch mortars ; of forty-nine 32-pounders, of forty-six 8-inch guns, of eight 10-inch, and eight 6S-pounder guns — an increase of thirty guns and mortars on the armament with which we opened fire on the 7th June; and 2286 13-inch bombs, 884 10-inch bombs, 9740 32-lb. shot, 6712 8-inch shot, 1706 10-inch shot, 1350 68 -pounder shot, were fired into the town, in the bombardment, previous to the assault. Still, this weight of metal, although it caused an enormous loss, did not crush the fire of the place, and the enemy were enabled to continue to reply, and to mount fresh guns, owing to the constant command of men from the armies outside the town. The capture of Kertcli and Yonikale, the command of the Sea of Azov, the partial pos- session of the Spit of Arabat, had not produced the results we expected on the resom'ces of the garrison ; and it was evi- dent that they received supplies of men and food by Perekop and Tchongar — no matter by what exertions, or at what Bacri- fices the communications might be effected. The Allies were unable in any way to intercept the supplies. They had ad- vanced from Eupatoria towards Simpheropol on various occa- sions, but had invariably found the enemy in superior force, in strong positions, except on the single occasion of General d'AllonvIlle's brilliant affair with the Russian cavalry, under General Korte, near Sak, which ended in the utter rout of the latter, and the loss of a battery of field artillery. The natui'e of the country, the difficulty of traugport, and tho 6 OMIXOUS CHANGES. distance of the base of operations, have all been pleaclcd as reasons for the failure of the attempts to advance from Eupa- toria ; but it seems ratlier strange that no effort was made to march, by either the Duljanak or the Alma, to the capital ol'the Crimea ; and the troops of Omar Pasha, instead ol" being kept idle at Komara or Eupatoria, could have been employed with the French and English in making a serious diversion, which would have paralj'sed the energies of the enemy, and which might have led to the fall of Sebastopol, north and south, and the surrender or total flight of all the Kussian army. It was not till the 11th July that Omar Pasha, dispirited at the inactivity to which he and his arm}' were doomed, proposed to General Simpson to embark the Turks irom the Crimea, and to land near Kutais, in order to relieve Kars by a menacing march npon Tiflis. On the 15th of Jvdy, thei'e was a confer- ence of the allied generals at General Pelissier's, to consider the position of the Turks in Asia Minor, and the proposition of the Tux'kish Generalissimo ; and it was with much difficulty that he succeeded in persuading them that 25,000 Turks operating in Asia were much better employed than if they were doing nothing at Komara. However, it was long' ere he could obtain the means of carrying out his plans ; and there is no doubt but that his assistance in operating from Eupatoria would have been of the utmost importance during the time he was compelled to maintain an attitude of hope- less inactivity. At this period of the siege I Avas relieved for a short time by a colleague, and I proceeded to enjoy my holidays at Therapia in the society of my wife, but I was attacked by Crimean fever soon after my arrival, and was not able to return to the camp till the beginning of August. During the time I was at Therapia, the Hotel d'Angleterre presented a melancholy aspect from the number of sick and wounded officers at the table-d'hote. Colonel Gordon, of the Engineers, was there on his way home, after a long and anxious charge in the Crimea — Prince Edward of Saxe Weimar and Lord George Paget were also there ; Major Erowne of the Royal Engineers, wounded on the 18th June ; Captain Browne, 88th, who lost his arm on the same occasion, and many others, some of whom have since fallen or have been badly wounded. The Turkish Contingent, encamped at Buyukdereh, under General Vivian, was in the course of being organized, but the eilbrts of its Commander and of General Cunynghame to- THEKAPIA. 7 get it into shape, were for some time frustrated by tlii> out- break of an epidemic among the troops. I\Ieantime, wo heard of the advance of the Eussians in Asia Minor, and of our owii inactivity, and I am bound to say, that the feeling among the English residents at Therapia was one of despondency for some time after the defeat on the 18th June— old officers shook their heads, and there was a great desire among young and old to get away from the Crimea on any pretence, in order to escape for a time from the sanguinary monotony of trench duties, the ha- rassing sounds of cannon and rifle, which beat on the ear day and night, and the contagious influence of gloomj' thoughts. Major- General Dacres came down about this time from the Crimea, to see his wife, and his presence was a sure proof that the artillery were not likely to be called upon for some time to come, inasmuch as he was not the kind of man who would wil- lingly run the chance of losing any ofiicial mention tending to his i)romotion. The attack on the Redan was tlie one subject of conversation — the arrival of news from the Crimea, the one great event to be looked forwai'd to daily. No one at that time appeared to think that we ought not to have attacked the Redan — that isadoctrine which was propounded much later, — but it seemed to be imagined that even if we took it, the French would not be able to maintain themselves inside any other part of the enemy's lines, and that we should consequently be exposed to the whole brunt of their concentrated attacks in a very difficult position. The first great phase in the siege had been passed— we found that the Russians could resist the allied forces with vigour, and that they were capable of acting on the defensive with greater energy than we gave them credit for, from their conduct at the Alma. The constant passage up the Bosphorus of vessels M'ith troops on board from France, and artillerj' and material from England, evinced the preparations made by the Allies for the renewal of the struggle ; but there were many who thought that the siege would not be over till the following year, and that the Allies would have to undergo the miseries of another winter in the open trenches. Sir George Brown, who had ever entertained a most gloomy view of our position, the falseness and danger of which, in a military sense, he rather exaggerated than undervalued, left the army on sick certificate two days after Lord Raglan's death, and the generals in command were new and untried men, in comparison with those who fii'st led our army to the Crimean campaign. 8 OMIXOUS CHANGES. On the 30tli June, Major-Geneval Codi'ington was appointed to the command of the Light Division ; and at tlie same date, Major-General Barnard was nominated to the Second Division. By these changes and promotions, Colonel Van Straubenzee, of the 3rd Euifs, became Brigadier of the 1st Brigade, Light Division; Colonel Spencer, of the 41th Ixegiment, became Brigadier of the 1st Brigade, 4th Division ; and Colonel Barlow, of the 14th, assvnned the command of the 1st Brigade of the 3rd Division. We received about this time the 3rd, 13th, 31st, and 72nd Regiments, which were attached to the 2nd, 4th, and 1st Divisions. But as reinforcements slowly poured in, a great drain on the strength of the army was steadily increasing in the trenches — our losses began to reach 300 men Jiors de combat in every week. The cholera also was diminishing the numbers of the daily tales of effective men, and there was reason to believe that the Russians were receiving large reinforcements just at the time that our strength was failing. The losses of the enemy were, indeed, enormous ; but so was the army which supplied the garrison, and held the positions outside the city. General Simpson, under such circumstances, had a most difficult duty to fulfil. Constant demands were made upon us by the French general to take such and such rifle pits, which annoyed them, or to construct batteries and parallels for the purpose of re- lieving their siege works ; and although it is quite true that they aided us materially on several points, by diverting and checking the enemy's fire upon us, it will be found, I think, that we rendered them a greater amount of assistance than we received. The principal events of the siege, and the military movements of the army, will be found detailed in the following abstract, which will, I fear, prove dry and uninteresting to any but military people, and lovers of dates and facts : — From the attack of the 18th June to 10th July, the enemy were em- ployed in strengthening their works ; and they made such progress at the Eedan, that it was judged expedient to open a heavy fire upon them from the allied batteries. This com- menced at five o'clock on the morning of the 10th, and lasted for four hours ; two embrasures were destroyed, and tlie enemy's reply was feeble, — but they did not cease from their labours, and we were obliged to reserve our ammunition for a more general bombardment. An alteration was made in the trench service at the same time, and it was ordered that the APPOINTMENTS. 9 generals of the day sliould not be named in General Orders, but that the duties in each attack should be done by divisions alter- nately. Thus, for example, the First Division took the left, and the Second Division took the right attack, on one day ; the Third Division took the left, and the Fourth Division took the right attack next day, and so on in rotation ; but the arrangements were left to the Generals of Division as much as possible. The English cavalry, long inactive, began to look forward to service in the field, as hopes were held out that a strong movement would be made against the Russian corps on the Upper Belbek; and Colonel Shewell, who com- manded the Light Cavalry Brigade, in Lord George Paget's absence, was an officer who showed, on the 25th of October, that he only needed an opportunity to handle cavalry Avith intelligence and effect. On the 12th July, General Barnard was appointed Chief of the Staff, and on the 15th Colonel Warren assumed the command of the First Brigade and Colonel Trollopc was named Brigadier of the Second Brigade of the Second Division. General Simpson had, unfortunately, on several occasions, the opportunity of proving that he was disposed to punish, with great severity, the crime of drunkenness on the part of officers ; and no loss than three gentlemen were cashiered, by court-martial, for that offence, in a few days, one after the other. Major-General Markham arrived on the 19th July, and assumed the command of the Second Division : but he had materially injured his health by the exertions he made in tra- velling through India to get to the Crimea, and on no subse- quent occasion did he add to the higli reputation he had gained in the East. The position of the contending pai'ties at this period was as follows : — The enemy held Sebastopol fl-om the sea north of Quarantine Bay to Careening Creek, their communi- cation with the north side being kept up solely by boats and rafts. They were overlapped by the French, who were in pos- session of the works at Mount Saporine, and who held trenches and works on the south-western side of Quarantine Bay ; but the Saporine works were much exposed to a cross fire from the Eussian works across the Tchernaya, at Inkermann, from the north side, from the Little Redan, and from the shipping. On the rear of our position the Turks held the south-eastern defences of Balaklava, from the sea to Kamara, where they lay ■with their left on the Highland Division. The Highlanders had the Sardinians on their left again, facing towards the 10 OMINOUS CIIAKGES. Tclicvnnya ; and the French army of observation was encamped on the left of the Sardinians, along the Fedioukine heii^ht.s, on the plain of Balaklava, extending along the Woronzow road till thej' communicated with the French army on our right ilank at Inkerman, and on the verge of tlie plateau in our rear. The Kussians held the northern side of the Tchernaya, the Mac- kenzie ridge, the mountainous couutiy from Mangoup-Kale towards Ozembash, the position at Aitodor, and the mountain ridges overlooking Ourkusta Chution and other Tartar villages. Here thej' were watching the French corps, which had been pushed be3'ond our lines into the valley of Baidar. The high mountains between the enemy and the sea are not suitable for the passage of artillery, which could only be brought against us from the coast by way of the Phoi'os pass. This pass was oc- cupied by the French, and the road was deeply scarjjed; but it was nevertheless necessary to keep a constant watch on the enemy in this direction, as he was known to have a force of in- fantiy and artillery at Alupka. On the 21st July, General Simpson published the following order : — " General Simpson announces to the army that he has had the honour to receive from Her Majesty the Queen the appoint- ment of Commander-in-Chief of the Army in the Crimea. •' The Lieutenant-General, though deeply impressed with the responsibility of the position in which he is placed, is most proud of the high and distinguished honour, and of the confi- dence thus reposed in him by his Sovereign. " It will be the Lieutenant-General's duty to endeavour to follow in the steps of his great predecessor, and he I'eels confi- dent of the support of the generals, and of the officers and soldiers, in maintaining unimpaired the honour and discipline of this noble arm3^ (Signed) "James Simpson, " Lieutenant-General Commanding." The personal Stafi" of His Excellency consisted of Captain Colville, llifle Brigade ; Captain Lindsay, Scots Fusilcer Guards ; Major Dowbiggen, 4th Foot (appointed by electric telegraph). Lieut.-Colonel Stephenson was appointed ]\Iilitary Secretary, although Colonel Steele still remained at head-quarters ; and Colonel Pakenham was confirmed as Adjutant-General, at the request of Lord llaglan, in the last dispatch he ever penned. CASUALTIES. 1 1 On the 21st, Captain LusLington, who was promoted to the rank of Admiral, was relieved in the command of the Naval Brigade by Captain the Hon. H. Keppel, a most zealous, cool, and energetic officer. Commissary-General Filder, at the same date, returned home to England, on the recommendation of a Medical Board. Frigid in manner, unsj'mpathetic and chilling with his officers, Mr. Filder possessc.'d very great administrative talents — a thorougli knowledge of his duties and business — unwearying assiduity, and immense personal activity. If he failed, it was from want of co-operation on the part of others, and from the pressure of circumstances too great to be borne. His successor, Sir George Maclean, a careful and prudent man, reaped the fruits of Mr. Filder's labours for many a day after- wards. On the night of the 22nd, the Russians, who were either trader the impression that the Allies were about to make an assault in the dai'k, or wished to stop our working parties, opened a heavy fire of musketry along their line, but it inflicted no loss upon us ; and after a great expenditure of ammunition, they retired from the parapets. From the middle to the end of July, the casualties in our army became so heavy, that the Commander-in-Chief, in several dispatches, was obliged to ex- press his regret at the loss, Avhich he attributed to the proxi- mity of the works, the lightness of the nights, and the rocky nature of the ground. On two nights from the 27th to the 29th, thirteen men were killed, and five officers, and 108 men were Avounded, in addition to which, there were some casualties in the Naval Brigade. However, some little progress was made; our advanced parallels were strengthened, and our unlucky fifth parallel was advanced and deepened. The French engineers were pressing on with indefatigable energy on the j'ight and left of our position, and were close to the Malakhoff on the right, and the Central and Flag-staff Bastion on the left ; and it was evident that, at the next bombardment, it would scarcely be possible to preserve the town from destruction. The only hope left to the Russians was, to attack our rear, and threaten Balaklava and Inkerman, and they prepared to strike a blow, the influence of which would be felt in the councils of Vienna, and in the cabinets of every state in Eui'ope. 12 LINE OF TUE TCIIEKNAYA. CHAPTER II. THE CONTEST ON THE LINE OF THE TCHEENATA, The Eussian ships in the harbour of Sebastopol a sourci' of continual annoyance to the Allies — Preparations on botli sides for a struggle — The Malaklioffthe key of Sebastopol — Scarcity of fodder in the Kussian camp — Healthy state of the Knglisli troops — Deaths of Colonel Vico and Mr. Calvert — The plague of Hies — Various stratagems to evade their attacks — Strength of the enemy's position — Probable abandonment by the Russians of the southern side of Sebastopol in case their retreat should be endangered — Kumours respecting the new commander of the English army — Arrangements of the commissariat for the coming winter — Destruction of the battery erected by the French between the Mamelon and the Malakhoff — Perseverance of the Russians. Camp before Sebastopol, July 10, 1S55. This morning we were roused by a pretty heavy firing from our batteries and from the Redan, which, commencing at daybreak, lasted for nearly four hours, during which it was directed on the advanced works. About eight o'clock this cannonade gradually died away, and for the remainder of the day the occasional booming of the guns was heard, as it has been for many months. The cause of this morning's activity in the Redan was an attempt on the part of the Russians to impede the construction of the heavy battery by which the British hope to reach the shipping, and to be able either to destroy it or force the vessels to leave the position •xvhich has been lield with such obstinacy, and which was used with such effect on the ISth of June. It will be remembered, that on that day the Russian sliips moored in two lines across the harbour, fired broadsides on the allies as they were advancing, and mowed them down witli more fatal effect than even the works of the Malakhoff and Redan. The French sufiered di'eadfuUy from this terrible fire, which was sustained during the whole action, and General Pelissier, though by no means a cautious commander, is understood to shrink from sending his troops to be a second time exposed to such a reception. The fire on our side was intended to check the Russians in their works on the Redan. The general opinion is, that no new attack on the Malakhoif ought to be hazarded until the fleet has been dislodged from its position, and driven into a part of the liarbour where it cannot be PREPAKATIONS, 13 employed against the allies. Of course I say nothing of the means by which this is to be effected. At present everything betokens on both sides the busy preparation for a determined attack and an equally stern defence. On our part it is only the repetition of what has often been described, the landing of shot and shell on the encumbered wharfs of Bala- klava, and the passage of Avagons and of strings of mules along the parched and thirsty road. The wind raises clouds of dust in which whole convoys are enveloped, and rendered invisible for minutes together, or sweeps along in eddies, with a spinning pillar of dust like a water-spout. The monotony of the trenches is relieved by the conviction, that in a few days the efforts which were unsuccessful three weeks ago will be renewed. The French are making visible progress in their sap towards the Malakhoff. Half way between this stronghold and the Mamelon, in which our allies are firmly established, a long trench is visible, showing how far they have advanced since the last attack. The Russians have made no serious attempt to retake this latter position, although the night before last there was a sortie, on a small scale, in which some sharp fighting took place, the end of it being, that the Russians retired, after having caused some trifling interruption to the French works. But the enemy is, no doubt, much more actively employed in strengthening the Malakhoff' itself, which he must feel to be the key of Sebastopol. Should this now celebrated hillock fall into the hands of the allies, no ingenuity or obstinacy of defence can delay the capture of the southern side beyond a few weeks. There is every reason to believe that the Russians are day and night at work deepening the ditch and constructing abattis. A very large body of troops is con- stantly under arms, and every means are used to avoid a surprise like that by which the French obtained such easy possession of the Mamelon. But it seems to be not alone the Malakhoff and Redan which the enemy is strengthening. The Russian en- gineers are evidently constructing works on a very large scale behind the fortifications with which we have been brought in contact. The harbour swarms with boats. Craft of all shapes and sizes are continually crossing and re-crossing, carrying gabions, fascines, and trunks of trees for the construction of abattis, as well as provisions and ammunition. They discharge their cargoes, and immediately return for fresh ones, each boat probably making some twelve or foui'teen trips a-day. The ships' boats seem all to be em.ployed at this work, which 14: LINE OF THE TCIIEEXAYA. is no doubt performed by the sailors. The large supply of wood yielded hj the forests of the Cruiiea has been one of tlie chief aids to the defence of Sebastopol. Fuel for the steamers and for cookery has been obtained in abundance, and the want of coal has probably been little felt. Trees idled, and brought a distance of many miles, form the strong abattis, six feet high, ■which is one of the chief defences of the Redan. Fascines for the works have been obtained from Nikolaev and Kherson, and are brought in vast quantities. The great number of arabas captvired by the French in their expedition across the Tchernaya would seem to indicate that ample means of transport exist in the peninsula; but the forage for the beasts which draw the Russian carts, and the herds of cattle with which the garrison is supplied with meat, must now begin to fail. In the spring and early summer the country is covered with a long rich grass, which aflbrds sufficient ibdder for all the animals required for the purposes of a most extensive transport service and commissariat. As June draws to a close this begins to wither, and although the present summer has been more than usually cool, and the north winds have kept the atmosphere moister than is generally the case, yet, in the vicinity of our camp, such a thing as a green blade of grass is hardly to be found, except in the vicinity of the Tchernaya. The other streams of which the Russians have possession are of much smaller volume than this river, and the steppe to the north is, without doubt, entirely dried up. Hence will arise difficulties in the means of sustaining their armj', which will put the skill and energy of our enemies to the test. The camp is healthy enough, and it is probable that the summer will pass away without any of that sickness to which the nation has looked forward with such forebodings. The heat is by no means equal to the general temperature of the country in former years ; in fact, both here and in Turkey the summer has been cool, and fever and diarrhoea have not been so prevalent as they were last year. Balaklava has been, it is true, much afflicted with cholera, but the scene of its greatest ravages was the top of the harbour, where many thousand Turks lie with only a few inches of light mould between them and the air, and where the bodies are often laid bare in all their hideous ghastliness by one ot the thunder showers of the Crimea. The vessels outside the harbour were tolerably free from the disease, and since the transports which wo'e crowded one upon the other in the narrow and huid-locked port have been tome- DISEASE. 15 what thinned, the place has become tolerably healthy. If a low and sultry village like Balaklava bo free from disease in the middle of July, there is little cause for melancholy forebodings as to the health of troops encamped on a lofty plateau, exposed to every breeze that blows, and far removed from a too prolific vegetation. Last year the seeds of cholera and fever were fostered by encamping in wooded Bulgarian valleys, in the vicinity of fetid morasses, or within the limits of a crowded and filthy seaport. The disease thus engendered was brought by the two armies to the Crimea, where privations and fatigue ex- tended its ravages, and caused them to continue far beyond the season at which the}'- generally cease. Before Sebastopol the allies are encamped on a spot whei'e no deleterious emanations can reach them, except those engendered by the necessary impurities of a camp, and these, through the care taken in burning or bui-ying all oii'ensive matter, have as yet had little effect on the health of the troops. As to fever, the usual season for it is June, and this month has now past without causing any un- usual sickness in the camp. It is therefore to be hoped that the autumn will not be marked by any serious calamity. As to the dangers to be dreaded from winter, they may be averted by proper care and foretiiought. JuJii 11. To-day there has been heavy shelling from the Redan, against our advanced works. Lieutenant Mousell, 39tli Regiment, was killed in the trenches. The French are fast completing their battery at the Ouvrages Blancs. I have to relate the melancholy deaths of two gentlemen connected -with the staff of our army. One is Colonel Vico, French. Commissioner at the head -quarters of the British army, and holding the same situation here that General Rose fills on the staff of General Pelissier. Colonel Vico died of cholera, which disease has struck down so many of the notables of the camp within the last few weeks, and his death is greatly regretted by the staff-officers, with v/h.om he was a great favourite. Mr. Calvert, a gentleman well acquainted with the Russian language, and employed as interpreter and confidential agent to the Commander-in-Chief, is the other victim.* People are beginning to fear that the pretty little farmhouse where Lord Raglan established himself on his arrival before Sebas- topol, is situate in a spot more than usually subject to malific influences. Certainly, fatal cases of disease have followed one * His real nuBic was Cuttley. 16 LINE OF THE TCHEENAYA. another with a rapidity unknown in other parts of the camp, and the impression which might be made on the minds of people at home hy the deaths of several distinguished officers in succession, would convey too unfavourable an idea of the state of the army in general. Though delivered by the progi'ess of the siege from Russian sorties, we are exposed to the attacks of other enemies, quite as troublesome, if not dangerous. Every nook and cranny is in- fested with millions of flies, which give one no rest by daj', and little by night. Within the last week the evil has almost become a plague. Situated as I am in the delightful vicinity of several hundred commissariat mules, and a varied assortment of empty sugar barrels and receptacles for beef and pork, it is possible I may have more than my share of the attentions of these pertinacious insects, which hover on every side in clouds, and settle on the most irritable parts of the face without giving a moment's relaxation. Like the Harpies, they literally "dispute the viands," such as they are, on which we regale ourselves, a morsel in its passage to the mouth being generally settled upon by two or more of the insects, which require a vigorous shaking before they will let go their hold. To remove them from a glass of any liquid before tasting it, it is necessary to introduce three fingers, and draw them from the vessel on the principle of " dragging," as practised by the Humane Society. Tlie only way to be at rest is to sit in a thoi-ough draught, which, when surrounded by papers, is a somewhat troublesome position. As you enter your hut after a few moments' absence they rise in dense clouds with deafening buzz from every object. Irritable suiferers pursue them desperately with towels, laying about on every side : others try to carry on a more scientific warfare, by burning old newspapers after closing every aperture ; but it is useless — in five minutes the place is full with a fresh and more hungry swarm. The only respite is at night, when the invaders retire to rest on the ceiling in enormous black patches ; but even then the introduction of a candle rouses them to all the playfulness of noon. Seriously they are an unexpected and most troublesome visitation, especially irritating to the poor sick fellows in the hospital marquees, whom they prevent from getting any repose the live-long day, and keep in a constant state of nervous restlessness. For the next three months we must be content to suffer all they can inflict, unless the rains of September should prove fatal to them. ANTICIPATIONS. 17 Jidij 12. Nothing new to-day. The French and Tnrks have finally returned from their reconnaissance, and the country about Baidar is again in the hands of the Cossacks. The quantity of cattle driven in by them is vei-y great. The beasts, though not of the large size we are accustomed to in England, are finer and better fed than those obtained in Asia Minor ; at least as they reach us after a voyage across the Black Sea. According to the observa- tions of the scientific officers who accompanied this reconnaissance, there is no weak point towards the Belbek, and now an attack ou the Eussian position, from Inkermann to Simpheropol, is considered all but hopeless. Nature seems as if she had constructed the plateau they occupy as a vast defensible position, which 50,000 men may hold against four times their number. Of the reduction of Sebastopol Proper before the winter I have no kind of doubt. That the Russians will hold out with their accustomed obstinacy, even after the destruction of their ships and the capture of the JMalakhofi', is more than probable ; but the possession of a new position, commanding the hai'bour and the bridge of boats which crosses it, must eventually compel the enemy to retreat. The Russian generals, though brave and determined on an obstinate defence, deserve credit for the possessing of prudence and forethought. As long as a place can be held with a chance of success, or even of damaging the enem3% they will hold it ; but all their proceedings induce the belief that they will not allow their troops to be cut to pieces merely for the credit of having made a desperate resistance, and of having maintained, without advantage, for a short time longer, a position which, in a military sense, is untenable. When they perceive that their retreat is seriously en- dangered, it is not improbable that they will altogether abandon the southern side, whicli they can hardly hope to hold should the allies be able to command the harbour. They, no doubt, count at least on being able to prolong their resistance until the winter sets in ; if that be impossible, they will most likely withdraw to the northern side, to which it may be imprac- ticable to lay siege before the spring of 1856. What may be done during the interval by the Russians to strengthen the woi'ks, we may judge from the industry and skill witli which they have laboured in the defence of Sebastopol Proper. To-day, Major-General Barnard was appointed Chief of the Staff', in the place of General Simpson, who is our acting VOL. II. C 18 LINE OF THE TCHERNAYA. General-in-Chief. Rumours prevail that a new Commander- in-Chief is to come out from England. Whether this be true I have not yet learnt, but it is to be hoped that the Peninsula and Waterloo, at twenty-three or twenty-four years of age, will not be the only qualification. It seems to all here that the best school for Sebastopol is Sebastopol itself, and that a man who has been six months in the Crimea is more likely to be an efficient general than any one who may be sent out in reliance upon vague reminiscences of campaigns in the field forty years ago. It takes some little time to gain an acquaintance even with the ground, and as autumn is drawing on there is no need for delay. The onty reason that can be conceived for sending out a general from England is that some man of European reputation may be appointed, who may give a status to the British army beyond what its present numbers are calculated to obtain for it in the eyes of the world. There is no doubt that Lord Raglan did this. His rank, his high cha- racter, his manners, his superiority to pett}'' jealousies, and his abstinence from petty intrigues, commanded the respect of even those who were disposed to question his capacity and energy. If this war be prosecuted for any length of time, and England be not prepared to embark more fully in the struggle with men as well as money, there is some danger that the British army will be looked upon as a mere contingent. A general of esta- blished reputation may add a lustre to the British name, but, after all, the best reliance is upon skill and energy, and there are many men at present before Sebastopol on whom the command might devolve with satisfaction to the army, and with the reason- able hope of a creditable performance of the duties of the post. The Commissariat, both in the Crimea and at Constantinople, is making laudable preparations to keep up a regular supply of provisions during the coming winter. Depots are to be esta- blished at Ismid and Sinope, and a regular transport service will be organized between various places on the coast and the port of Balaklava. Sheds for 4000 cattle will be constructed near the camp. The chief difficulty is in the land transport, which wUl require all the care of the authorities to render it complete when the season of mud and snow again recurs. The railway is not so firmly laid down as coidd be wished. The late storm washed away several portions of it, the sleepers being merely placed on the soft yielding soil, and this after tlie heavy rains oi'Novemher, becomes a mass in which horses' hoofs sink to the depth of eight THE enemy's tactics. 19 or ten inches. A Commissariat should have a special transport service at its own command ; but under the actual system requi- sitions must be made on the Land Transport Corps. Even iu the present summer weather this branch often cannot supply mules, other requisitions having been made on them for carrying up ammunition. Some persons go so far as to prophesy for the ai'my an irregularity in the provisioning, similar to that which caused so much sufi'ering in the past calamitous v/inter ; but the very fact that such dangers are foreseen and discussed, ailbrds the surest ground of confidence that proper measures will be adopted for their prevention. At any rate, our men will not be over- worked, for we have the French on all sides of us to take their share of the labour of the trenches. A singula*- fact elicited by Sir J. McNeil, but known to all acquainted with the army, is, that during the winter every man cooked his own food. The cold and weary soldier, creeping back from the trenches, found his piece of salt meat. In order to cook this, it was necessary to light a fire, often with wet wood, and this was probably the work of more than an hour. The consequence was, that the food was often devoured in its raw state, or the tired soldier con- tented himself merely with rum and biscuit. A better system has begun to prevail with regard to cooking, which, it is to be hoped, will be developed and perfected before the return of inclement weather. July 13. Last night the Russians kept up a tremendous fire all along their line. It has been blowing a gale for the last twenty-four hours, and the wind bore the sound of the heavy guns towards us. The very ground shook. I am sorry to say that the battery which theFrenchhadconstructedbetweentheMamelonandtheMalakhoff has been knocked to pieces by the powerful fire of the latter fort. A colonel and about thirty officers and men were put Jiors de combat, and the siege works have received a decided check. In fact, as the Allies advance towards the actual defences of the place, they must expect to meet with more elaborate works, and obstacles heaped on one another with all the care which nine months of preparation admit. Even now the enemy are con- tinually occupied in strengthening the Malakhofi". It is not what it was on the 18th of June, and a fortnight hence it will not be what it is now. The French battery at the White Works, however, still goes on, and its effect will be proved iu a few days. c 2 20 LINE OF THE TCHERNATA. CHAPTER III. The Feast of St. Smthin — Rain, wind and mud— Formidable wovlcs in and about tlie Miilakhoil" — Are there foiindiies and iiowder-mills in Sebus- topol? — Preparations for the wur by the late Czar — New battery in course of erection by tlie French — Amusing letter from a Russian lady to lier sister — Omar Pasha's head-quarters — The Turks do not assist iix the siege-operations — Humours of an expedition to relieve Kars — Un- fair treatment of the Naval Brigade in the matter of promotion — Satisfactory progress of the -.xorks — Stratagem by which the Russians succeeded in establishing rifle-pits in front of tlie French sap — The French construct a new battery — Idlers upon Cathcart's Hill — Omar Pasha, being anxious to distinguish himself, is annoyed at the inaction to which he is doomed in the Crimea. Before Sebastopol, JliJii 15. High winds have prevailed during the last twenty-four hours, and du.sky clouds sweep along the sky, while the air has become damp and chilly even at noon-day. This is the Feast of St. Swithin, and the day has been duly marked by violent rain aitd loud peals of thunder, while the Russian position over the valley of the Tchernaya has been hidden by a dark blue veil of rain- cloud, and the smoke of the guns of »^ebastopol can scarcely penetrate the watery mist which overhangs the town. The canvas of the tents in the sodden camp Haps dismally, the huts are dank and dripping, and before the doors little pools of water are collected on the ground, which is trodden into a deep slimj' mud. The temperature this evening outside is that of an English November, and as the wind whistles among the tents, one may fancy that the trees are being stripped of the last of their withered leaves, and that the frosts of winter have already arrived. But this will be over in a few days, and then the heats of August will parch the ground once more, wells and tanks will again yield onlj' a scanty supply, and summer almost out- live the month of September. To-day there has been heavy firing between the IMalakhoff and the advanced French batteries. Last night the Russians made a sortie from the Malakhoff on the IGth of the French Line, who were at work on the trenches and parallels, which our allies are pushing with all possible energy in advance of the Mamelon. The affair took place about ten o'clock and lasted nearly an hour, ending, as usual, in the repulse of the Russians, and their retreat to their works, after having inflicted more or less damage upon STATE OF THE MALAKHOFF. 21 those of the French. During the rain the flashes of the guns flickered indistinctly in the distance, while the wind brought the reports with more than usual distinctness to the ear. The loss of the French in the affair of last night is stated by them to be two officers and thirty men hors de combat, but from the duration and magnitude of the struggle one might have expected it to have been much greater. The French have pushed their Avorks almost to the abattis of the Malakhoff, and are so near that a man may throw a stone into the Russian position. The abattis is described to be a truly formidable obstacle. It is formed of trunks of oak and beech from the woods of the Crimea, and is more than six feet in height. Attempts will no doubt be made to destroy it with shot and shell before a fresh assault is hazarded. The Russians may still be observed continually at work on this position, which is now recognised as the key of Sebastopol. They have also been engaged lately in repairing the Redan, which had suffered a great deal from the continual fii'e of the English batteries. Last night a sortie on a small scale took place upon the French left, but, although the fire was heavy while it lasted, the affair was soon over. All agi-ee that nothing will be done on this part of the position, and that the real point of attack will be the Malakhoff works, the capture of which will render the Redan untenable, and make the sur- render of the south side of the place merely a question of a few weeks. July le. Heavy firing last night and this morning. Never since the beginning of the siege were both parties so thoroughly in earnest as at present. The exchange of shot and shell is almost incessant. The French can, of course, be supplied with these munitions of war to any extent, but to the resources of their adversaries there must be, one would think, some limit. That foundries exist in Sebastopol there can be little doubt ; some of the shot thrown at tis is perfectly smooth and new, and seems as if it had just been cast ; moreover, it is impossible to believe that a great naval arsenal can be without the means of manufacturing its own munitions. Powder-mills probably also exist; but in regard both to powder and shot one naturally wonders where the material for the manufacture is to come from. A small quantity of iron may be obtained by re-casting our shot and the pieces of shell, but probably a great part of the former goes into the harbour, and the supply is too small and precai'ious 22 LINE OF THE TCHERNAYA. for a Government like the Eussian to depend upon it. It seems more lilvcly that an organized system of transport feeds Sebas- topol with munitions as well as corn, and that durini^ the summer every endeavour has been and will for the future be mado to supply the garrison with sutlicient resources to hold out during the winter, when the ti'ansport of heavy articles upon the roads of the Crimea wiU be a matter of considerable difficulty. As long ago as August, 1853, two or three houses of Odessa entered into a joint contract to supply the Government with 14,000 military carts : although these were, no doubt, destined for the campaign in the Priucipalities, yet they Avere afterwards transferred, with thousands moi"e, to the defence of Sebastopol ; and the fact of such contracts having been made is suiMcient to show the scale on which the late Emperor was ready to carry out his viev/s, and the facilities which the Crimean fortress still enjoys for continuing a defence that may seem wonderful to those who do not consider how long it had been foreseen and prepared for. The French are very sanguine about their ability to reach the shipping from the new battery they are erecting at the White Works. That the Russians also have some misgivings on the subject is evident from the assiduity with which they foe into the newly constructed work. The long GS-pounders with which it is to be armed seem sufficiently formidable to destroy the vessels even at the distance of three thousand yards, but as yet the ships remain moored in two lines across the harbour, while boats flit along on all sides of them in ceaseless activity. Our battery near the Quarries is almost ready, and in less than a week this matter will be decided. Our casualties of late have not been heavy. No officer has fallen since Lieutenant Mansell, of the 39fch. There is little sickness, considering that a force of 150,000 men is con- centrated in front of Sebastopol. Complaints are again current respecting the want of mattresses for the wounded in camp. The care or the terror of Government has provided these articles in abundance at Scutari, but in the hospital marquees there is a great want of theni; and the men are lying in discomfort. The Sick and Wounded Fund has been applied to in order to remedy this want; but, while stores are lying useless in the half-empty hospitals of the Bosphorus, it seems a waste of money to buy fresh articles which could be supplied by a little arrangement between the medical officers ot the two places. The following letter fell into my hands a day or two since A LETTER. 23 wLen I was up on a visit to a deserted village about twelve miles from BaUiklava. It is in a female hand, and is dated the very day of the capture of the Mamelon Vert, from a village to the north of Sebastopol. Omitting the domestic details, I cannot forbear giving the political and military contents, which may be considered public property : — JMay 2G {June 7). " You are not, my dear sister, in a very safe position ; accord- ing to my judgment, the enemy is cnlj?^ a few steps from you at Toross. The Uaidar road is broken up. We have alread}"^ sent pioneers to the coast to break up the roads in case of the arrival of the enemy ; they have taken a sufficient quantity of powder. In your letter of the 12th of May, (24th,) you said all was quiet about you, but it cannot be so now. Kertch is taken ; at Arabat there was a battle, in which we were victorious. They even say that a Russian army is marching upon Paris. Up to to-day all was quiet in Sebastopol. To-day, the enemy bombarded heavily, but did notliing but bombard, and will do nothing; they can do nothing at all against us. Mother, who has just come from there, says it is impossible to recognise the town, it is so much changed by the fortifications continually added to it. At the Severnaya, you enter as through a gate, with enormous batteries on each side. Slother was there a day when it was quite quiet ; she even slept in the town that night. At ten o'clock a shell fell into the gallery near the window ; happily, it did not fall into the room, or she might have been hurt. * * They say that the seat of wai- will soon be transferred to the Danube. It is time that these gentlemen should leave us, and let us have a little rest. As soon as they go, the town of Sebas- topol will be built where the Chersonese was, and what is now Sebastopol will be entirely a fortress. How curious it will be, till one gets accustomed to it," &c. The writer goes on to speak of her yellow dress being ready, and of her intention of going in it to Sebastopol in order to have her portrait taken. It would appear that the Russians are taking the thing very coolly, or rather were doing so six weeks ago. But within a few hours after the foregoing letter was written the Mamelon was attacked, and the most brilliant opera- tion of the siege performed. The bombardment, which the fair writer and her military friends treated with such contempt, was no doubt expected by them to resemble the operations of Uctober and April, and to be followed up by no attack. It would seem 24 LINE OF THE TCHERNAYA. that for once we found the Eussians unprepared, and bj' avail- ing ourselves of that opportunity, a^aincd the most signal success -which has attended the siege operations, a success which, if it had been followed up, would, no doubt, have led to still more glorious results. The Sevcrnaya alluded to in the letter is what we call the Star Fort, or is more probably the name for the whole northern faubourg. The Uussians are busily at work, strengthening this part of the place, as well as their positions on the Katcha and J3clbek, in anticipation of operations at some future period for the entire possession of Sebastopol and the Crimea. Omar Pasha has his head-quai-ters near Ivamara. It is difficult to imagine a spot more romantic than the one selected by the Ottoman General. It is situate on a slope facing the sea, and is in the shadow of Cape Aia, which rises perpendicu- larly from the Euxine to a height of 700 feet. In the hollow, near the Pasha's head-quarters, a Tartar Bey has pitched his tent. He fled with his family either from the severity or the threats of the Russians, and made his submission to the Turkish General. His conduct is perhaps not wise, as he will lose all his property, which will be seized by the Russian Government, and the Turks will leave him to die in a ditch directly he has ceased to be useful to them. It is a singular thing, that while the French and British troops consider their most harassing work to be the duty in the trenches, the Turks, who are equally interested in the event of the war, and will be the most bene- fited by its success, do not take any share in actual siege opera- tions, and are now amusing themselves with the mere pastime of foraging, or actually sitting in indolence for hours together, following the shadows of their tents as they move from west to east, smoking stolidly, or grinning at the antics of some mountebank comrade. Omar Pasha goes hither and thither without object, merely that his army may seem to be employed ; its actual services are of little importance. It is said that an agreement was made between the allied Generals and the Porte that the Turks were not to assist in the siege. But why not ? and can such an arrangement be binding when the public good demands a different com'se ? If the Ottoman troops be so excellent behind fortifications, there can be no objection to their relieving their hard-worked allies in some of the less important positions : or they might at least be employed in some more active manner than merely moving to and fro occa- OMAR PASHA. 2-5 sionally, as if for the purpose of impressing the niind of Europe with a false idea of activity. The rumour has spread within the hisfc few days that Omar Pasha is to go to Ivars, in order to relieve the place and oppose the advance of the Russians in Asia. But this, if seriously contemplated, can be intended only as a measure of preparation for next year's campaign, and the object will be rather to save Erzcroum than Kars. Should the trans- portation of the Turkish army to Trebizonde be determined upon, it will not take less than two months, even Avith the help of the British marine, to convey it across, a longer term having been required for the transport from Varna to Eupatoria, which places are not so far apart. Allowing a month for the march from Trebizonde to Kars, it would be November before the army could reach its new position ; and at that season the lofty table- land of Armenia is deep in snow, and all military operations will be suspended until the ensuing spring. But it is more than probable that the report of the movement has no foundation. It arises from a belief that the affairs of Asia have been grievously neglected, that the present year has not bettered the position of the Turks, and that there is danger lest the Russians should actually succeed in wresting away an important province as well as consolidating their reputation among the inhabitants of Central Asia. To-day, Omar Pasha paid a visit to General Simpson's head-quarters. The Naval Brigade fancies itself hardly used in the matter of promotion, and indeed it is difficult to come to any other con- clusion than that its officers have been somewhat neglected by the First Lord of the Admiralty. After the 17th of October, a large promotion was made by Sir J. Graham, as the reward of a single day's labour and danger, but since that time, although a period of nearly eight months has elapsed, no single promo- tion has been conferred on an officer of the Naval Brigade. There are in this branch of the service lieutenanls of nine or ten years* standing, who volunteered their services on shore, and have been as much exposed to the hardships and danger of the trenches as the officers of the army. The latter, by stepping into death vacancies, and by brevets, have received a proper reward for their services ; while the naval officers remain in their old posi- tion, and are naturally disappointed and disgusted. It is hardly sufficient to tell them that when Sebastopol is taken they will have their promotion. Many will not live to see that day, and in the case of mtu-ried men, the widows, who would be in the 26 LINR OF THE TCHERNAYA. receipt of adequate pensions for their husbands' sei*vices, will be left witli a maintenance not corresponding- to the merits and sacrifices of those who have fallen in a prolonged siege. ]f the one bombardment of October was thought worth}^ of a large promotion, there should be some reward for three others, each of which was more severe and more successful tiian the first — not to mention nearly 300 nights of duty in the trenches, and all the sufferings of the late terrible winter. Jnhj 17. Another sortie from the Slalakhofi' last night during a pom-ing rain. It lasted about a quarter of an hour. Heavy firing all night. This morning the French are said to be advancing rapidly with their works. Tliey talk of being quite ready for another assault in about a fortnight. Juhj 21. In spite of the heat which has followed the stormy weather of last week, the operations of the siege are being pressed for- Avai'd by the French on our right with indefatigable industry. There is nothing in what goes forward which can strike tlie eye of a stranger ; stagnation seems to reign in camp and trenches ; even tlie heavy firing noticed a few days since has for the most part died away ; yet every day an advance is made, and each advance brings the allies nearer the crest of the Malakhoff, which it vv-ill now require all the courage and tenacity of the Russians to hold. The JMalakholi" and Mamelon stand upon an ele- vated plateau, while the ridge that joins them is itself higher than the land around. It is along this ridge that the French, sap extends in a zigzag to within 170 yards of the hiU which the Russians hold. As the incline is somewhat steep, the French working parties are already out of reach of the Russian guns, which cannot be sufficiently depressed to be used with any effect against them. They can therefore continue their work without danger, except from the riflemen, who hold every van- tage spot, and use their best endeavours to pick off any enemy Avho may show a part of his cap within their range ; but, as these can be kept in check by French marksmen, while the guns of the Mamelon are hourly thundering against the Russian stronghold, the advantage is clearly on the side of our allies. The latter have also thrown up a small battery for field-pieces at the extremity of their sap, and this has hitherto prevented the egress and formation of Russian troops for a sortie against tiiem. These guns entirely command the points on which A HEAVY FIRE. 27 the Russians are in the habit of leaving their works, and they consequently have been reduced to the extremity of replj'ing- to all the advances of their enemy by merely the lire of musketry from the erabrasures. The day before yesterday, however, a few Eussians straggled out here and there, making their way by dodging behind clumps of earth and bushes, until they had come to within about eighty yards of the parapet, when they threw themselves upon their faces, and began digging up earth for cover. The French apparently did not observe the movement, and our people, not catching sight of the venturesome Mus- covites until they had made good the position they wished to attain, fancied thern to be French. By this means the Russians have established rifle pits in front of the French sap, where they will do the usual amount of damage unless they be speedily driven out. On the 19th the French, observing signs of activity among the Russians on their left, opened a furious fire from all their batteries upon that part of the town. The fire, which was as heavy as in any of the bombardments, continued for about half an hour, and, having apparently eflected its object, ceased. On the side of the JMalakholF the French have discovered the way by which the Russian reserves are moved into the works. It appears that two deep trenches lead to the Malakhoff, one on the side of the Redan, the other on the side of the Little Redan, towards Careening Bay. To interrupt, at least, the latter means of communication, the French have established a small battel"}', which is as yet unmasked. It will play on the covei'ed way on the side of the Little Redan, and to a great extent stop the advance of the Russian reserves, while the French are assaulting the works themselves. Jahj 20. To-day there has been a veritable July sun ; not a breath of air stirring. Over the Black Sea hangs the mist which always appears when the sun pours down his rays with more than usual power. The firing was slack this morning, but towards afternoon it increased considerably, and at the present moment there is a sharp cannonade kept up from the I\Ialakhofr, and now and then a volley of musketry announces that the skir- mishers are at work. We have constructed another battery mounting two Lancaster guns to the left, in advance of the 21-gun battery. Somewhat further in the same direction a battery of six guns had been raised to fire on the shipping, but. 28 LIXE OP THE TCHERNAYA. it having been found that the position was too low for the pur- pose, mortars have been substituted, and tlie fire will, no doubt, open in a few days. The Lancasters have not yet beea mounted, but will probably be in position to-morrow. The health of the men is still excellent, and their spirits do not in the least suffer by the length and wearisomeness of the siege. The summer is cool, and, as the Russians have of late made very few sorties, the nights in the trenches are passed without much hardship. When formed in marching order to descend the oft-trodden ravines which lead to the batteries, the men betraj' neither despondency nor unwillingness ; the laugh and the joke prevail, their air is brisk and alert ; how dif- ferent from their appearance in the gloomy season of last December ! The noise of skittles is to be heard on every side, and the regimental bands, sadly diminished indeed as to num- bers, but still effective for amusement, play the various popular airs to which we are accustomed at home. Cathcart's-hill is every evening the resort of hundreds of idlers, Avho, stretched at lengtli on the dried grass, or sitting on the piles of stones which enclose many an honoured grave, look down on tiie beleaguered city, and watch with lazy indifference the flashes which burst forth from Mamelon, Malakhoff, or Redan. Omar Pasha has not yet returned from Constantinople. He is heartily tired of his position in the Crimea, and wishes for a field in which he can gain some distinction, or at least keep up the reputation which he achieved on the banks of the Danube. "When he was directed or invited to repair to Eupatoria, he naturally enough expected that some operations in the field would quickly follow. Perhaps such a course was impossible, on account of a deficiency in the means of transport ; but there is reason to believe that, had it been adopted, the Russian army would be in much greater danger than at present, and Sebas- topol much nearer its fall. A hostile force a clieval on the roads from Perekop would have compelled the Russians to fight at a disadvantage and to keep open their communications, as all their provisions are brought by this route. Now that the plan of direct attack on Sebastopol has been persisted in, the Turkish hero finds that his occupation is gone, and, although a transfer to Asia would leave the more honourable command on the Danube in the hands of his rival, Ismail Pasha, he is never- theless said to be desirous of making an attempt to relievo Kara. THE SICK-LIST. 29 CHAPTER IV. Sanitary condition of the troops — Crimean mud — Arrival of the Duke of Newcastle at Balaklava — Another storm and its consequences — Lake in front of tlie writer's hut — Poultry under difficulties — Sharp practice — Progress of tlie siege — Anecdote of General Pelissier — Rumours of another Russian attack upon the line of the Tchernaya — Efi'ect of these rumours upon tlie health of the troops — The Sardinian contingent at church parade — Splendid appearance of the men — Tlie Sardinian military system — In what particulars it resembles the different military systems of France, Austria, and England — The Turks in the valley of Baidar. Before Sebastopol, Jahj 30. Since the sortie of the 23rcl inst. nothing of importance, or even of interest, has occurred here. The desultory fire, to which we are accustomed, continues by day, usually swelling into a roar of artillery for a portion of every night. Last evening, for instance, the din began at half-past ten, and lasted, with inter- vals, for about three hours. The casualties continue much as before, not very heavy, although some days are unlucky, and on the night of the 28tli the Guards had twenty-five or thirty men killed and wounded. However unimportant, in a siege of ordinary duration, would be the usual daily casualties expe- rienced, in one so prolonged as that of Sebastopol it becomes a serious consideration, especially when taken in conjunction with the loss from disease. This, I am glad to say, diminishes. Cholera cases have become very rare. Fever and diarrhoea pre- vail, but not by any means to an alarming extent. Upon the whole, the sanitary condition of our army must be deemed satisfactory — far more so than many predicted that it would be at this season. It appears to me that more might perhaps be done by other departments to aid the medical to sustain the health of the men. I have been told of instances in which sufficient care is not taken to save them from exposure to the burning sun and chilling dews, which in this climate produce such pernicious effects. Thus the difference in the sick returns of vai'ious regiments or batteries may be partly accounted for. One hears of men being compelled to parade on Sunday, in full dress, on which occasions some fall in the ranks from heat and fatigue. This is obviously not a season or a spot for the rigid enforcement of certain military practices which, in other climates, may be proper and desirable. I do not dwell upon 80 LINE OF THE TCHERNAYA. tliis point, because I have reason to believe that the gi-eat majority of commanding officers are careful and considerate of their men, and if some still adhei-e, rather tenaciously, to the routine of homo service, or do not sufficiently study the time and manner in which the soldiers may perform their duty with the least prejudice or risk to their health, I am persuaded thoy only require to have their attention called to the subject in ci'der to make a change. As regards rations, these continue to be abundant, and of excellent quality. The cleanliness of the camp is well attended to ; oflal is nov/here allowed to lie about, and delaulters in this respect are sure of punishment. The generally healthy condition of the troops has doubtless been favoured by the weather, which lately has been wholesome, if not altogether pleasant. The tempcratm-e is moderate, and rain not unfrequcnt. As I write, a fine fresh wind is blowing over the heights, sweeping away many impurities in its course. I rode this morning through a part of the French camp, re- puted to be usually not very fragrant in its exhalations, and I was agreeably surprised at finding it free from evil odours. We had a heavy rain in the night, and this morning it descended in torrents for a short time. The immediate eflect of these plash- ing showers is not particularly agreeable, although I believe it to be highly beneficial. They convert the clayey soil of the camp and its vicinity into a heavy kind of mud, which clings tenaciously to the feet of man and beast, and renders locomo- tion slow and difficult. The clay hardens rapid]}^ and only by repeated efforts can it be extracted from the horse's hoof. Con- sidering the quality of the soil, it seems unaccountable that our authorities do so little in the way of road-making. One would imagine they anticipate either continual summer, or the de- parture of the expedition before winter arrives. While the Erench have made excellent roads, in om* camp one sees mere tracks. As for the Balaklava railway, it will be useless within a short time after the bad season sets in, unless repaired. It is a very convenient summer construction, but the ground on which it rests will be converted into mud by the winter's wet. The opinion is pretty general that no very long period will elapse before another attack is made upon the MalakhofF. As regards an expedition into the interior of the Crimea, that is highly improbable. In fact, I believe nothing of the kind is in contemplation, at any rate, for the present. The month of A STOBM. 31 September would be a flivoiirable season at which to commonee such a movement. 3Iajor-General Dacres, commanding the artillery, goes to- morrow, on a fortnight's leave of absence, to Therapia. Colonel jSTorcott's (Rifles) servant and charger were awaiting,- yesterday morning, their master's return from the trenches, in what was considered a perfectly sheltered situation, when a rouuf] shot bounding over an eminence, killed both horse and man. Four Russian deserters came in yesterday. The Duke of Newcastle has arrived at Balaklava, and has been up to the front. July 31. Soon after five o'clock this morning a most violent storm of wind and rain commenced, which continues as I vs'rite. It will cause, I fear, much discomfort, if not actual damage, in the camp, over which it rages with a combined fury and obstinacy, which I do not remember to have seen surpassed. The ex- tensive portion of the camp, of which I command a view from my hut, is converted into a lake, the rain descending much faster than it can sink into the earth. Over the surface of this lake the rain is borne in clouds by the driving wind, and forms a sort of watery curtain through which the soaked tents look dreary and dismal enough. The shelter Avhich they offer, im- perfect as it is, has been sought, and only here and there a drenched figure is to be seen struggling through the blast. In the pens the mules and horses hang their heads mournfully, enduring, with melancholy philosophj% the inevitable and un- welcome douche. In sundry nooks and corners to the leeward of tents, and under the eaves of huts, the camp fowls have taken refuge, with drooping plumes, and that look of profound dis- comfort peculiar to poultry under difficulties. Down the numerous slopes of the camp the water has forced channels foi itself, which will not, however, I fear, prevent its finding its way into many of the semi-subterranean huts, to the great disturbance of the domestic economy of their occupants. Even the furious war of the elements does not arrest the strife between man and man, and from time to time, above the roar of the wind and the plash of the rain, the boom of a gun reaches us. As I write, however, the fury of the tempest abates, the clouds fly seaward, the rain ceases, and already the camp resumes its stir. The firing during the last few days has, on our side, been 32 LINE OF THE TCHERNAYA. far more lively than for some time past ; this increased activity has, however, a defensive rather than an offensive character. The Russians, perceiving that our works are daily brought closer to theirs, are trying by their single gun practice to .annoy us. Orders have accordingly been given to return the fire from our batteries whenever it becomes too hot. This plan was tried once before, and it had the effect of moderating the ardour of the Russian gunners. The second trial will, I hope, be no less successful in procuring for us a little respite, for, somehow or other, the less we fire the better is the Russian gun practice, and vice versa. But no firing of the Russians, be it good or bad, slight or heavy, can impede the progress of the works. The surface of the ground in the neighbourhood of the Malakhoff and the Redan presents every day a more checkered appearance. It is one mass of trenches, traverses, rifle-pits, and batteries — a perfect maze, so that it requires a strongly developed organ of locality, or else many days of trench duties, to enable one to find one's way. The railway is perhaps the best test of the gigantic activity which prevails : numbers of mortars and large quantities of ammunition are daily transported by it, and vanish again silently, to be replaced by others. The trenches give one a good idea of an unfathomable abj'ss, such an incredible mass of mortars, guns, shells, and shot, do they swallow up. When they will be satiated, and when the word " enough" Avill be spoken, seem as uncertain as Crimean weather. I was told a few days ago, by a French officer of artillery, that Pelissier, on being asked when offensive siege operations would be again resumed, said, " Well, I don't know : the Russians are losing every day 300 or 400 men by sickness. If we wait a week, they will have lost a brigade ; if we wait a month, they will have lost a cor2)s d'armee." But if the Russians lose many men by sickness, the}^ replace them somehow or other. Numbers of stories are in circulation about the formidable forces which have come, and are still coming down this way, and appre- hensions of an attack on the Tchernaya line gain ground daily. In the meantime, not even with the aid of the most powerful telescopes, can the approach of this formidable force be dis- covered, and the Russians content themselves with firing a shot now and then from the batteries on the Mackenzie-ridge at the harmless sheep and cattle sent by the French over the Tcher- naya to graze, or on the horses going down for water. THE SARDINIAN CONTINGENT, 33 However improbable all tliese appreliensioiis about an Iiiipend-- ing attack of the Russians may be, there is one advantage con- nected with them — tliey impart a certain amomat of life and activity to the armies occupying the Tchcrnaya line. Without some such stimulant the men would be overpowered by ennui ; moreover, these flying reports act as a kind of corrective against sickness. In winter, the troops engaged in the trenches sutfered much more from sickness than those in the rear on the heights bej'ond Balaklava ; now the reverse is the case, and the troops in the trenches are in better health than those at the Tchernaya. Of course, inactivity is just as fatal to a body of troops as over- work. The Turks alone form an exception. I do not think that they covdd be injured by any amount oi faineantisme. The loss in the Sardinian army may be in some measure attributed to the want of excitement, which has engendered a morbid, hj^DOchondrlac feeling, and this produces a great deal of illness. Yet, with all its losses, the Sardinian contingent is still a fine body of men. I went the day before j'esterday to see their church parade, which is held every Sunday, and at which all the troops not on duty are present. The ground chosen for this ceremony is a slope leading from Kamara towards the plain of Balaklava. The troops occupy three sides of a square, and on the fourth, which is the highest, a tent is erected in which mass is celebrated. They have an excellent band, and it plays during the service. The whole ceremony reminds one very much of the church parades of the Austrian army. After the service was over, the troops defiled before General della Marmora : first, the infantry, and then the artillery. The men, although perhaps not quite so tall as those in the old English regiments, are consider- ably above the average of French troops. After the infantry came the artillery in their short blue tunics, with yellow facings. When the defi.ling was over, the cavalry went through some short evolutions. Although collected from several regiments, each of which furnished a squadron, as every regiment of infantry furnished a battalion, they executed their manoeuvres with beautiful precision. The horses, although inferior in size and breeding to the English cavalry horses, are compact and useful-looking animals. They are mostly of the Italian breed, much improved by Arab blood. Piedmont, placed as it is between two great military Powers — France and Austria — has evidently watched with attention the progress and improvements which have been introduced into the vox. II. D 34 LINE OF TUE TCHERNAYA. military systems of these two neighbouring empires, and adapted their experiments in these matters to her own advantage. In the autumn of every year a concentration of troops takes place in Lombardy, and before the wai- of 1848 numbers of Piedmontese officers used to assemble there. The same was, and I think is still the case whenever a camp is collected in the south of France. Thus they had the opportunity of studying two, in many respects, very dillbrent systems. The result is a blending of the two in arms, accoutrements, administration, and movements. For in- stance, the infantry is dressed in French fashion, with leather gaiters under tlie trousers, the long coat reaching to the knees; the only tjxception being the shako, which more resembles the Austrian shako than the French kepi. The cavalry and the artillery, on the contrary, wear the short tunic of the Austrian cavalry and artillery. For the movements of infantrj' as well as of cavalry the French manual has been exclusivol_y adopted, and at some distance one could scarcely distinguish French cavalry manoeuvring fi-om Piedmontese, were it not for the dif- ference in the seat of the riders. The maneije is decidedly Austrian. The spirit of the Piedmontese army — I mean the relations existing between soldiers and officers, and of the inter- course of tlie latter with one another — is, however, more analogous to that of the English than to that of either the French or Austrian armies. It is neither the easy familiai'ity which exists between the French officer and soldier, nor that " beggar on torseback" like tyranny of the officer and the miwilling slavish- ness of the soldier which characterize the Austrian army. The officers in the Piedmontese, like those in tlie English army, belong almost exclusively to the higher classes, and only rarely does an officer rise from the ranks ; so that the distance be- tween officer and soldier is not one of mere discipline, but a social one ; and, however the spirit of Republicanism and the longing for equality may be developed in other states of Italy, Piedmont does not seem to be impregnated with it, and the system adopted of choosing for officers men from the higher classes answers very well. On the other hand, the otHcers them- selves associate much in the same manner as in the English army. Wlien official business is over and social intercourse ■begins, the diffi?rence between the higher and lower officer entirely ceases, and they associate as gentlemen arc wont to do. The Turks are still mooning about, and waiting Omar Pa.sha's arriva], which is postponed from day to day. One battalion has EFFECTS OF THE EAIN. 35 Ijeen ordered down into the valley of Baidar to cut grass. In order to prevent confusion a line of demarcation has been drawn, ■which separates the French from the Turkish forai^ers. Baidar seems to furnish inexhaustible supplies of hay. Notwithstanding the systematic collection of the French, and the continual drain on its resources by private forag-ing expeditions from all armies, a considerable quantity remains on the hill sides, which, owing to their neighbom-hood of the Russians, are less frequented than the more open parts of the valley. It is likewise an inexhaustible store of wood. The Turks have cut a good deal for zeraliks (huts), but in their continual moving about they seem to be un- certain where to take it, so there it remains for the present. c. CHAPTER V. More wet — Discoumging aspect of the camp — Habitations of the army — Descriptiou of a hut — Necessity of making better preparations for tlie winter — An Egyptian plague of flies — Daring of tlie Crimean fly — State of many of tlie tran?ports — TheCunard steamer, the " Cambria " — Kecal of General Canrobert — Reappearance of the cholera — Sanitary condition of the French army — Preparations for an attack upon the Malakliofl" — A sortie — Discouraging nature of the trench work — A Rus- sian attack repulsed by the Englisli advanced picket — A medical board on Sir R. England — Return of Captain Montague from captivity at Simpheropol. Before Sebastopol, August 1. Eain, rain, and nothing but rain, in this most damp and dreary of camps. I closed my letter of yesterday in a storm, and this one I commence in a deluge. The soil here has the solitary good quality of drying rapidly, at least in the more elevated parts of the camp, and before sunset yesterday there were scarcely any traces left of the morning's tempest. A few tents that had been blown or washed down had been re-erected, leaks and other defects revealed by the rain had been remedied, the temperature was agreeable, the ground tolerably dry, the usual occupations and amusements of the camp had been resumed, and a numerous party of officers played at cricket on the heights. The pleasant interval was brief. Towards ten o'clock another storm arose ; the lightning flashed blue and blinding in every quarter of the heavens, again the rain fell in torrents, and the rolling of the thunder, mingled with the roar of the artillery, left one at times almost in doubt whether the uproar proceeded from the heavens or the batteries. On account, probably, of the bad weather, JD 2 36 LINE OF THE TCHERNAYA. there was loss firing tliaii usual. Now and then three or four cannon shots followed one another in rapid succession, the ritles engaged in a brief and angry conversation, and shells by twos and threes took their leisurely and lofty llight skywards — the fuse, like a little ball of llame, alternately appearing and vanish- ing, until with sudden dip, they plunged into trench or battery. Then came the deep voice of the thunder, rebuking the discord and mocking the puny rivalry of man. The rain continued to fall heavily during the night and morning, and to-day the camp is a field of mud, in parts almost a morass. It is not easy to imagine anything more discouraging in its aspect than the camp before ^r^ebastopol in rainy weather. The look is worse than the reality, for the tents generally resist the wet, and the men are abundantly provided with clothes, covering, and rations. Viewed from a short distance, the great undulating tract over which the allied army is scattered, resembles an immense ploughed field. Of grass there is very little — only a sprinkling here and thei-e. The numerous flowers of vivid colours, which in spring and early summer cheered and enlivened the view, have long since been burnt up by the sun or trodden down by the feet of men and horses. The landscape wears one general brown tint, bounded by a line of dull gray mountains, often capped by murky and watery clouds. The habitations of the army are of three classes — wooden huts, huts or hovels (dating from last winter, and partly subterranean), and tents. Happy, at least at this season, is the man who possesses a good wooden hut with a plank flooring. Most of the large huts, however, are used as store-houses, or for other general purposes. The walls of the hovels (for such is the term that most correctly designates them) are usually three or four feet below groimd^ and about as much above it, and ai-e surmounted by gabled roofs, without which, in some of them, a tall man could hardly stand upright. These singular dwellings ai-e, as may be sup- posed, damp and gloomy. They are entered by three or four steps cut in the earth, and usually covered with stones or planks. Here is one of which the entrance is so low that a man of average height must bend double to get in. It is considered rather a good hut, and its owners speak with gratitude, almost with enthusiasm, of the excellent shelter itallbrded them in the trying times of last winter. It is eight or nine feet broad, and about twelve in length. At one end a sort of embrasure admits ligl ' through the thick wall, composed of mud and shapeless THE CRIMEAN HUT. 37 masses of stone. Below tins embrasure is the bed, barely raised fifom the ground; on one side is a small niche in the wall, used as a fireplace. The walls are tapestried with sail-cloth, horse blankets, and manias that have come all the way from Catalonia and Valencia with the Spanish mules and muleteers, and are adorned with pictures cut from illustrated periodicals, and with nume- rous pipes, hien culottees — well blackened, that is to say, by the tobacco oil that has soaked through the poi'ous clay. There is actually a chimney-piece — a thick board wrenched from some packing case, the rusty nails still sticking in its edges — which supports a biscuit-box, tobacco, bottles in various stages of con- sumption, and other small comforts. Here is a rough tub, which was used for the ablutions of the inmates, until scarcity of water caused the prohibition of such luxuries. Suspended from the homely tapestry are a sword, a pouch-belt, waterproof and leathern leggings. A pair of tall boots are in one corner, and hard by the door — the lightest place — is a crazy table, with writing materials and sundries. A shelf has been contrived, and holds a few well-thumbed volumes. The heavy rain has flowed into the liut through the doorway up to the edge of the bed ; the consequence is that the floor resembles a muddy road, in which you slip about and almost stick fast. A trifle, this, to Crimean campaigners. The roof does not leak, which is more than can be said of the roofs of many huts. The one I have described may be taken as a fair specimen of the class of edifice. Transported to England, and exhibited as the dwelling of an Esquimaux or American Indian, it would doubtless excite sur- prise and compassion, and people would wonder that even savages could exist in such dens — here cheerfully tenanted by very civilized persons. Huts and hovels are few in number compared with the tents, which, when carefully pitched, witli a good gutter round them, make endurable habitations for this time of year, although liable to be overthrown by very high winds. But against the cold, when the canvas crackles with the frost, and the icy breath of winter enters at every chink, they afford poor protection indeed. If we are to pass another winter before Sebastopol — I mean to say, if the higher powers consider it probable, or even possible, that we shall do so — it is to be hoped that measures will be taken for the preservation of so costly a commodity as the British soldier. Seasoned veterans, who have survived the bitter sufferings of the winter of 1854-5, may be able to withstand the less severe hardships of that of 38 LINE OP THE TCIIERNAYA. 1855-6 ; but what do our rulers imagine will become of youth- ful recruits, in the year's worst season, on these inclement heights, unless provision be made for their comfort superior to any at present existing ? Rations and raiment will, doubtless, not be deficient, but, as far as appearances yet go, proper shelter will. One of the gi'catost curses of the camp at the present moment is the multitude of ilies. It is I'eally an Egyptian plague. la every tent and hut they swarm in myriads. From mosquitoes and fleas we are tolerably free ; there are no bugs — at least, I have neither seen nor heard of any. Probabl}'^ bedsteads are not sufficiently numerous here to encourage the presence of those flat and foetid insects. We are duly grateful for the absence of such irritating vermin ; and wo try to be resigned, but we certainly cannot be thankful, under the fly infliction. The Crimean fly is the most dai'ing and aggressive animal of its size that it has ever been my lot to encounter. It befouls every- thing in your quarters, bites you, and will not be rebuffed. Its courage and activity constitute it the Zouave of the fly family. It dashes into your cup as you raise it to your lips, and defiles the morsel at the end of your fork. War with it is not to be thought of Kill a thousand, and you shall have a million in their stead. "Whatever food is exposed upon the table — sugar, meat, bread — becomes in an instant black with flies. The camp resounds with maledictions on the genus. A cargo of " ketch-'em-alive" papers, arriving just now at Balaklava, would find an instant sale at exorbitant prices. We should paper our huts and tents with them, and still despair of exter- minating our tormentors. Whilst on this unsavoury subject, I will mention complaints that have latelj' reached me, and which, in at least one instance, I know tx> be well founded. They refer to the condition of some of the transports taken up by Government for the con- veyance of troops, horses, and stores to the Crimea. Consider- ing the very high prices paid for such ships, it is not too much to expect that they should be kept clean, free from vermin, and as free as possible from evil smells. I may instance, as a case of which I have a positive knowledge, the "Cambria," a fine steamer of the Cunard line. She arrived at Balaklava from Portsmouth on Sunday last, after a passage which, notwith- standing that she lost a little time by running aground in the Bosphorus in broad daylight, was tolerably rapid. She brought. RECAL OF GENERAL CANROBERT. 39 in addition to her cargo, a few horses, and some small detach- ments of various regiments, under command of Captain Foster, of the 6th Dragoon Guards, and also about twenty officers, chiefl}'^ very young subalterns. Making every allowance for the presence of horses on board (fifty-two came here, and a few- had been left at Scutari), but remembering also that she had uninterrupted fine weather during her passage, I do not hesitate to say that the state of this ship, when she arrived here, was disgraceful. The abominable stenches on board were such as I never encountered in any craft of her size, employment, and pretensions : in the cramped space allotted to the officers, bugs swarmed to such a degree that many of the young men, after vain attempts to cope with the odious enemy, were driven from their berths, and preferred a plank and a blanket upon deck to the stifling heat and detestable atmosphere of the cabin and the constant combat with the vermin. Exposure to the heavy dews of the ]\Iediterranean, and want of proper rest — for sleep refreshes little that is snatched in one's clothes on a ship's deck — during a period of two or three weeks, is not a good means of preparing youths, as yet uninured to hardships, for those they inevitably must encounter in a Crimean campaign. Nor is it to be borne that shipowners, who are making enormous fortunes by the war, should thus ill pei'form their part of the contract. Some of the officers on board the "Cambria" were suffering, when they arrived here, from diarrhoea, probably induced by the circum- stances above detailed. By the same number of passengers of mature age and greater experience, the general state of the vessel's accommodation and service would doubtless have been made matter of serious complaint and protest ; but those by the Cambria were, with few exceptions, mere lads, too full of anticipations to dwell upon the disagreeables of the voyage when once the haven was in sigiit. Avnust ■>. The news of the day is the recal of General Canrobert. No cause is assigned, but it is felt that his position was awkward, as subordinate to Generals Pelissier and Bosquet, whom he lately commanded. The recent rains have brought a slight return of cholera. The day before yesterday the 72nd buried ten men, dead of that complaint ; but the 72nd is a recent arrival out here, and may therefore be expected to suffer more than others. As a general rule, wet appears to bring cholera, and heat dysentery. At 40 LINE OP THE TCHERNAYA. present there is little fever. The sanitary state of the French army is, as far as I can ascertain, pretty satisfactory ; there is some cholera, but not to a great extent, and it arises chiefly from severe duty in the wet trenches. An officer came off that duty at four o'clock yesterday morning, and at eight he was a corpse. To-day, as I was riding along the Woronzoff road, I overtook a French battalion returning from duty in the trenches • — their clothes, from heel to collar, and their muskets, smeared and begrimed with mud. They mai-ched briskly enough, but one poor fellow, who hung in the rear, at last fell by the road- side, deadly sick — the sweat literally raining from his fiice. The trenches are converted into ponds and sloughs by the late bad weather. To-day is sunny and windy, and things are drying up. One ravine, down which the French habitually pass, was yesterday a torrent five feet deep, by which some men were nearly carried awa}^ The Eussian steamers continue to annoy our allies in the night time with grape. The French are con- structing batteries to command the Russian fleet, and so to facilitate an attack on the Malakhoff". As soon as all are com- plete, it appears the opinion of the French that the JMalakhoff •will again be assailed. These say that their approaches are now brought within about a hundred metres (110 or 115 yards) of the enemy's position, and that the engineers can go no fur- ther. The distance appears to be, and probably is, rather greater than that. On the 31st of July the 30th Regiment and 3rd Buffs were reviewed by General ]\Iark]iam. The Duke of Newcastle is in camp, quartered in General Bentinck's tents. Aiigmt 4. There has been a good deal of firing these last two nights. The night before last the Russians made a sortie, but were driven back. Thej^ carried away five yards of the chevaitx de frise on the Woronzofl' road. Their reserves were very strong. It is thought they desire to distract our attention from the point they really mean to assail, which some suppose to be the Ceme- tery. Reports of an approaching attack on the Malalchoff, for which various dates are conjectured, continue to circulate. It is time that something were done, if anything is to be. From the 18th of June to the 4th of August is a long time (in the best season of the 3'ear) to spend in inaction before a battered wall, battered but not yet breached. Tt is but discouraging work A WAEM SKIRMISH, 41 for the troops to be marcbecl down nig-ht after niglit to the trenches, there to be pelted with sliot and shell, with a feeling that nothing is gained by the exposure. We hold our own, but we do not progress. Let us hope, however, that when the new French batteries are completed, we shall witness a marked change in this state of things. It was between ten and eleven o'clock, p.m. when the Rus- sians sallied out of the town by the Woronzoff road, and advanced to the heavy iron frieze placed across the Woronzotf road, be- tween the left and right attacks. The advanced picket at the cltevaux de frise was commanded by Lieutenant R. E. Carr, of the 39th Regiment, who behaved with coolness and gallantry. He fell back slowly, keeping up a fire on the Russians, to the advanced trench guard, under Captain Lackie, 39th Regiment. The trench guard on the right of the fourth parallel, under Cap- tain Boyle, 89th, and Captain Turner, 1st Royals, checked the enemy, and they retired after ten minutes' firing, leaving a few men killed behind them, and carrying off a part of the barrier. They had advanced with great cheering and bugling, and were estimated at 2000 strong, with heavy columns iu support. On the 30th of July a medical board was ordered on Lieu- tenant-General Sir R. England, G.C.B., commanding Third Division, and he was recommended to return to England. He was the last of the generals who left England in command of a division. Major-General Eyre succeeds him in the Third Divi- sion. Captain Montague, R.E., returned from Simphei'opol, where he was detained for some time as prisoner of war, and was very kindly treated. E. H. CHAPTER VI. Loss in the trenches — A mysterious conflagration — Funeral solemnities in Sebastopol — Review of the Light Division by General Codrington — Review of the Chasseurs d'Afrique on tlie spot at wliich tlie celebrated Balalvlava cavalry cliarge toolc place — Deatlis of Colonel Cobbe, Lieu- tenant Evans, and Captain Layard — A new road from Balaklava to the camp in contemplation. Camp before Sebastopol, August 6. Little has occurred here since my last letter to vary the often- described routine. A great deal of ammunition continues to go up to the front, and there are many speculations as to the pro- bability of an early attack. The French are working away on 42 LINE OF THE TCHERNAYA. the right, with the view of getting at the Eussian ships, and the usual nightly cannonade continues with more or less vigour. Last night there was a good deal of firing, more than has been heard for some time. The Russian Minies were at work, popping at sentries and everything that showed itself. I am informed this morning, that the Light Division, which was on duty, had iift^' men hors de comhat, nearly double the usual number. Statements of this kind, however, are so apt to be exaggerated, that one can scarcely credit anything but the returns. One thing is certain, that the English loss in the trenches, at the ])resent rate, may be estimated at about 1000 men a month. This includes every man hors de comhat, for however short a time. As regards disease, I do not learn that there has been any particular variation since I last wrote. The weather has been fine and bright, usually very warm of a morn- ing, cooler of an afternoon, with pleasant breezes sweeping over the heights. The heat here does not, to me, feel so relaxing as on the shores of the Bosphovus — infinitely less so than in that steam bath, Constantinople. There is much conjecture to-day as to the meaning of a fire which commenced yesterday evening in rear of the Redan, and burned all night, sinking and dj'ing away towards morning. As yet nobody has suggested a plausible explanation. Yester- day afternoon there was a funeral in Sebastopol, evidently of some personage of importance. The procession was numerous, and there was a firing party, which is unusual. We continue to hear tales, probably exaggerated, of the great moi'tality pre- vailing in the Ibrtress. The heat of the weather and the number of dead bodies would account, however, for a good deal of disease. On Saturday afternoon. General Codrington reviewed the Light Division, which went through some manoeuvres in its ■usual steady and satisfactory style. The appearance of the troops was excellent. Yesterday about 2000 or 2500 Chasseurs d'Afrique were reviewed. The place selected was the ground over which our Light Dragoons executed the memorable but fatal charge of Calaklava, and mournful was the contrast which suggested itself to the minds of those who in October last beheld the I'eturn of the handful of heroic but battered warriors, and who yesterday saw the fresh and well-equipped squadrons of France prancing over the plain. Dearly indeed, by the loss of so many gallant fellows, was purchased that " one A KEW ROAD TO BALAKLAVA. 4S laurel more," now added to the numerous wreaths that twine round the standards of Britain's brave horsemen. The African Chasseurs looked gay and smart yesterday in their neat light blue vests and the inevitable red trousers. They are fine serviceable-like cavalry, their evolutions were well performed, they made some capital charges, and their whole appearance was highly praised by the English military spectators. It has been proposed to make the First Division into two divisions, one to consist of the Guards, to which were to be added the 31st Regiment, 3rd Buffs, and 13th Light Infantiy, the other of the five Highland regiments now here, and of the 92nd, expected out. The project, however, has been abandoned, at least for the present. I regret to announce the decease of Colonel Cobbe, of the 4th Eegiment of Foot. He died this afternoon from the effect of wounds received in the afl'air of the ISth of June. He com- manded the 4th from the commencement of the campaign, and was wounded at the Alma. Lieutenant Evans, of the 55th, is also dead. He was shot through the windpipe yesterday in the trenches, and every effort to save his life proved fruitless. Capt. Layard, 3Sth Regiment, D.A. Quarter-Master-General, died, on the 7th, in Balaklava harbour, on board the " Faith" steamer, where he had been removed for the benefit of his health. He sank under diarrhoea, and the loss of such an active and intelligent officer will be felt in his divi.sion. It is in contemplation to make a good road from Balaklava to the camp. This is indeed a most necessary work if we are to pass the winter here, and it is to be hoped it will be promptly proceeded with, and not postponed until too late to complete it before the bad season sets in. It is also to be hoped that we shall not see — as we did last winter — guns inextricably stuck in the mud, and remaining there for weeks ; and commissaries, when bringing up stores from Balaklava to the camp, compelled to unharness the mules and horses from half a dozen carts, attach them to one, in order to get it up the hill, and then lead the animals down to recommence the same operation with each of the vehicles. In connexion with a good road from Balaklava there should be branches through the camp, connect- ing the divisions, and leading to the front. The health of the 10th Hussars still continues unsatisfiictory. A day or two ago that regiment had 161 sick, out of a strength of 676. Major-General Sir W. Eyre was put in orders on the 44 LINE OF THE TCHERNAYA. 3rd August, to command the Third Division. On the 5th, Brigadier Lockj'cr was in orders for Ceylon, and Colonel Windham, C.B., was nominated to succeed him in the command of the 2nd Brigade, 2nd Division. F. H. CHAPTER VII. Signs of an approaching attack — The hospitals are cleared out — Various opinions respectinp; the result of an assault — The ilulakholT — I'ast errors and blunders — Hopes of better things for tlic future — A terrible bombardment contemplated by some — Leave of absence sought and obtained by many officers — Regiments without their proper number of officers — Tedious nature of the siege — Leave of absence too readily granted in the English, and loo rigorously refused in the French army — Jlore clergymen required — Effective force of the British army in the Crimea — Arrival of French and English reinforcements — Russian practice — Promotion of Colonel AVindham — A birth in the trenches — Casualties — Cholera — A Russian attack expected — Keinforcemeuts sup- posed to have reached Sebastopol — The Army Working Corps — Deaths of Deputy-Assistant Commissary General Coppingcr, and Major Hugh Drummond. Heights of Balaklava, August 10. The report of an approaching attack upon the Malakhoff gains ground, and is credited in the camp. False reports are so numerous here that one would pay little attention to the current rumours, did not various indications, more than general expec- tation, give it an appearance of probability. At an early hour on Tuesday morning, General Simpson went round the lines, examining the works. Yesterday, General Jones did the same. A council of war was held on AVednesday evening, at the British head-quarters. A more positive symptom than these of approaching action is the fact that some of the principal medical officers of Divisions have received orders to clear the hospitals, sending to Balaklava such patients as can safely be moved, and to make the customary preparations for the reception of wounded men. This may not mean that an assault is immediately to be made, as some short time is necessary to make arrangements and procure the stores required. An idea of the quantity of these may be formed from the fact that, on receiving this order, the chief medical officer of one ])ivision, consisting of rather more than GOOO eftective men, at once sent in a requisition for about six tons' weight of various articles. Such a mass of drugs, lint, plaster, bedding, wine, and other hospital necessaries and r.UMOURS OF AN ASSAULT. 45 comforts, is painfully suggestive of what may probably occur, and of how manj-- stout and brave fellows are expected to go down in the next serious operation against our tenacious foe. But at the point to which things have now come, success is not to be hoped for without heavy loss, and if the former be com- plete the latter may. be endured, if not cheerfully, at least with- out repining. It is said that after a bombardment, very large forces will be sent in to attack. Some talk of a combination of French and English troops against the Malakhoff, and even designate our First Division (Guards and Highlanders) as the British force that is to co-operate with our allies. If the attack really is to be made, Heaven grant that this time no blunders may be committed, and that the blood of this gallant army may not again be fruitlessly poured out by mistakes and mismanage- ment. If we fail this time we may make up our minds, as many have already done, to remain where we are for the winter. It is the opinion of some here that Sebastopol will never be ours until we regularly invest the whole place. There are various opinions, in both the French camp and the English, as to the impregnability of the Malakhoff. Some believe that if we succeed in storming the outer works, we shall find within them a second line of invincible strength. Others think the strength of the inner works exaggerated. Of course, in all this there is much more of conjecture than of well-founded opinion. The Generals in Chief keep theii* information and intentions to themselves. If we get the Malakhoff, little doubt is entertained that the south side will speedily be ours ; whether we shall be able to remain in it under the fire from the forts on the north is another question. The Eussians driven out, however, and the fleet destroyed, we shall be at liberty to busj^ ourselves with the northern forts, or to move inland, as may be decided upon. As for the town, which we have treated with so much iorbeai'ance, it is not to be supposed that it will be left to us in its present neat and serviceable condition. If Russia be faithful to her military traditions, we shall obtain but a heap of ruins and ashes. No snug quarters will there be in Sebastopol for the allied armies, which have been so long alternately crippled with cold, plunged to the knees in mud, or seethed in sickly Crimean vapours. A time there was, now some ten months ago, when Sebastopol might have been ours on easier terms and in better condition — a time when Russian prisoners expressed their surprise at not being sent into depot there, since they made sure the place had 46 LINE OP THE TCHERNATA. fallen Into ouv hands after tlie battle of the Alma. It is boot- less to recur to past blunders and omissions, or we nii<^-lit also talli of the time when the Malakholl" was but a round tower, instead of the strong fortification now the chief obstacle to the capture of the place to which it is the lie3\ However, if grievous eiTors have been connuittcd, let i;s hope that they will in future be avoided, and that tlic next attack will be very differently conducted, and have a widely dilierent result, from the last. After nearly two months' monotonous inaction, during which many thousand men of the allied army have been put hors de combat by trench duty and disease, I can hardly think that there is a man in the camp — even of the croakers, who, I regret to say, are pretty numerous — who will not joyfully hail the resumption of more active hostilities. I must observe that there are persons, whose opinion is not without weight, who do not believe that we shall attack soon, and a similar doubt appears to exist among those French offi- cers whose opinions I have heard expressed. These seem to think that a tremendous bombardment is contemplated, such as shall literally pulverize the defences opposed to us, and com- pletely crush the enemy ; and they add that some time must elapse before the necessary preparations are completed. Leave of absence continues to be granted to a very large ex- tent. Taking five of the latest general orders, those of the 3rd, 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8th instant, we find the nauu's of no less than seventy officers who have received permission to absent them- selves. Of these, twenty-nine proceed to England — twenty-six of them in virtue of medical certificates, and three on "urgent private affairs," or in consideration of peculiar circumstances : twenty-seven go to Scutari and Therapia for periods varying from two to five weeks ; twelve on board ship, and two to the Monastery of St. George, where there are ten rooms fitted up for ailing or convalescent officers. I doubt not that all these leaves of absence may be necessaiy, and fully justified by the circumstances of the respective cases ; but such numerous de- partures are not the less extremely inconvenient to the army, and leave many regiments very short-handed of officers. I yesterday heru-d a colonel declare that he had but one captain and three subalterns on duty in his battalion, and that he, con- sequently, had to send one hundred men into the trenches under charge of a youth of eighteen. If this state of things cannot \>Q helped, it, at least, is very iiiifortimate. Enough officers do WANT OF CLERGYMEN. 49" not come out to replace those who go home. This protracted siege — if siege it may be called, which in reality is a tedious struggle between two rows of detached forts — is certainly not popular with the ofScers of the army, few of whom care to remain if they have a respectable pretext for returning home, while fewer still desire to return hither when once they have got away. I am persuaded that if there were more movement in the campaign — if, instead of monotonous trench duty, we were engaged in ordinary warfare, manceuvring, mai'ching, light- ing, there would be both less sickness and fewer seeking leave. I do not attempt to decide the question whether leave is some- times too easily granted, and more to interest than to necessity. The French arc thought to fall into the other extreme, and instances have been cited to me where the lives of valuable offi- cers would have been saved had they been allowed to exchange severe duty (one night out of three in the trenches, independ- ently of ordinary guards and parades, cannot be considered light labour) for a period of relaxation in a more salutary climate. The senior chaplain of the army, the Rev. Mr. Wright, has made a representation to the Quarter-Master-General on the subject of the insufficient number of clergymen attached to the forces. There are nineteen altogether, but of these only seven are effective. The others are ill (four have received sick leave within the last week), and their illness is attributed in a great measure to the severity of their duty . Some of these gentle- men have as many as five hundred sick to attend to — independ- ently of such attention as they may be required or desirous to give to the healthy. I understand that Mr. Wright has re- presented forty chaplains to be the number required for the ai'my now out here. I know not whether these be more or no more than are needed ; but it is evident, that if it be deemed desirable that the sick and wounded should receive spiritual consolation, it is but a mockery to expect that to be afforded to them by only seven clergjmien. You are, doubtless, aware, that of the chaplains out here three only are regularly com- missioned and paid by Government. Two religious societies received permission to send a certain number (I think ten) each; half the expense of their maintenance here to be borne by Government and half by the societies that submitted their names for the approval of the authorities. Of the cases that go into hospital a very small proportion tei'minate fatally. This appears ii-ora the general returns up to 48 LINE OF THE TCHERNAYA. the 15tli of >Tuly. Accordinj^ to the best evidence I crm obtain, the present elfeetive strength of the British army in the Crimea is upwards of 28,000 men, exchisive of troops that have arrived within the last threedays. The"Etna" and "Arabia" steam-trans- ports have reached Balaklava from Eng-land (the hitter after the extraordinarily rapid passage of fourteen days) with large de- tachments for different regiments out here. Transports have reached Kamiesch with reinforcements for various French regi- ments. This furnished the foundation for a report (to show you how ridiculously things are magnified here) current in camp this morning, that 30,000 French troops had arrived, and that extensive operations were immediately to be com- menced. Yesterday the Russians amused themselves by throwing a few round shot into the camp of the Fourth Division. Two of these buried themselves in the ground, close to a hospital hut of the 17th Regiment, shaking the edifice and astonishing the wounded, but doing no other damage ; another killed a man of the field-train as he lay in his tent. It is said the missiles were intended for General Bentinck's tents, which are near the Fourth Division flagstaff on Cathcart's-hill. The Duke of Newcastle is still staying there. A new kitchen, building for the General, is thought to have attracted the attention of the Muscovite gunners. The fire in rear of the Redan, which I mentioned in my last letter, is said by the French to have been occasioned by one of their rockets. Colonel Windham, who, since the first landing of the allies in the Crimea, has been the very efficient Assistant-Quarter- Master- General of the Fourth Division, has been promoted to the command of the 2nd Brigade of the Second Division. We are by this time pretty well accustomed to hear of deaths in the trenches ; but, until the other day, we had no example of a birth having taken place in that uncomfortable .ind dan- gerous locality — certainly not exactly that which a lady might be expected to prefer as the scene of her accouchement. The intrepidity and military ardour which so distinguish our gallant allies, are shared, it appears, by the ladies of their nation. Three nights ago a buxom cantinih'e accompanied her battalion to the trenches, there to supply them with the restorative petit verve, and to brave, witli masculine courage, the storm of shot and shell. There was possibly some miscalculation in the matter ; but the fact is that, towards the small hours of the AN EXPECTED ATTACK. 49 morning, she was taken with the pains of maternity, and gave birth to twins. JMother and children are doing well. The casualties increase daily in gravity and number. Major Macgowan, 93rd Regiment, was carried off out of the advanced works by a party of Russians, on the night of the 7th, and it is feared they have killed him. General Simpson sent in a letter to inquire after him ; but the Russians could give no information, except that he was not in their possession. The cholera still claims a few victims every week. Our casual- ties in the trenches, from the 6th to the 9th were, eight rank and file killed, one officer, five sergeants ; 103 rank and file wounded, one officer, one rank and file missing. F. H Camp before Sebastopol, Awinst 13. There at last is some prospect of action, but not against the MalakhofF, nor is it the allies who are expected to assume the offensive. Late last evening orders were given for the troops to be under arms by three in the morning. Of course, Mala- khoff was immediately the word, and most persons supposed that the long talked of assault was to be made This, how- ever, was soon found not to be the case. An attack was ex- pected to take place along the whole line. Without tap of drum or sound of bugle, the camp was afoot at the pre- scribed hour, the troops forming up in profound silence. The entire army was out, including the cavalry and artillery from Balaklava. The first grey of morning found a number of officers and amateurs assembled on Cathcart's-hill, the best point of observation. There was unusually little firing yester- day and last night, and all expected that this tranquillity was quickly to be broken by the din of an engagement. The in- terest of the situation grew stronger as the morning advanced, and as the scarlet columns became visible, massed along the lines, motionless and expectant. Superior officers, with their stafi", moved to and fro ; aides-de-camp traversed the heights with orders ; here and there, through the still imperfect light, which began to be tinged with the first red flush of sunrise, waved the pennons of a Lancer escort. With broad day the brief excitement ended. Before the upper edge of the sun's disk rose above the hills, the troops were marching briskly back to their tents. The morning was beautifully clear, and the spectacle was striking, In fine order, in serried columns, VOL. II. E 50 LINE OF THE TCHERNAYA. looking hardy, active, and cheerful, and up to any work, the Crimean ami}- regained its canvas quarters. For the day the danger was ovei" — to commence again, it is believed, to-night. From certain orders that have been given with respect to am- munition, mules, &c., I infer that the army will again be under arms early to-morrow morning. The officers are warned to be ready at a moment's notice. It is believed that reinforcements have reached Sebastopol. They have been expected for some time past. Four divisions are talked of, two of them Imperial Guards. Word has been sent up from the fleet to head- quarters that large bodies of troops were seen collecting behind the Redan, and others behind the Tchernaya, and there were grounds for expecting a general attack along our lines. The generals of division assembled yesterday afternoon at the quar- ters of the Commander-in-Chief. General Simpson is indisposed, and it is reported that he intends going on hoard ship for a few days. It was thought probable that he had summoned his subordinates to confer with them before absenting himself; but it may now be supposed that the meeting had refer- ence to last night's operation. It is not impossible that this turn-out of the array was a mere rehearsal intended to ascer- tain whether all the actors were perfect in their parts, and in case of need would be promptly at their posts. The report to-day in camp was, that the Archduke Michael is in Sebastopol. We lately learned from deserters that he was expected. To-night I am informed that our cavalry has been withdrawn from Baidar and its neighbourhood. Concerning this you will doubtless receive positive information from another quarter. General Pelissier holds 40,000 men in readiness to operate on the line of the Tchernaya, which, from its extent, is, perhaps, the most attackable part of our position ; but it is vigilantly guarded, and I entertain no doubt as to the result should the Eussians venture to assail us. The " Orinoco" has arrived at Balaklava with Dragoons and horses. Mr. Doyne, Superinteiident-iu-Chief of the Army Worlcing Corps, has also arrived. He came as far as Con- stantinople in the " Simoom" with 450 of his men, who •wiW quickly follow him hither. The corps is to consist of 1000 men. JMr. Doyne has had an interview with Colonel Macmurdo, in command of the Laud Transport Corps. I understand that it is not intended, as was at first proposed, to employ the Army Working Corps under fire unless in case of absolute necessity. SHELLS IK MOTION. 51 They will be set to making roads, cleaning the camp, and similai" highly useful and necessary occupations. The stall" of the railway, which had been greatly diminished by illness and other causes, has been broken up. Mr. Beattie has been requested by General Simpson to remain to superintend the working of the railway and all engineering matters con- nected with it. Two vessels have been sent from Balaklava to Gibraltar for mortar. We are informed that no less than eleven vessels sailed from England between the 20th and 30th ult. laden with guns and ammunition, and bound for the Crimea. Deputy- Assistant Commissary-General Coppinger, attached to the Fourth Division, died on Saturday, of fever, and was buried yesterday afternoon. He was much liked and respected here, and a large number of officers followed him to the grave. It is now past eleven o'clock, and I find that no orders liave as yet been given for a turn-out, but merely that all should be ready at very brief notice. Unlike last night, the unwonted stillness of which had something almost ominous — warned, as we were, of a probable encounter — the fire of the batteries is pretty much as usual, and from Catlicart's-hill, a short time ago, the shells were to be seen traversing the darkness, in low curves or in lofty flight, according as they were thrown from gun or from mortar, while the round shot hurtled through the air, and the rifles sparkled at various points of the lines, August 14. The night has passed quietly, and there has been no occasion to turn out the troops. It is known at head-quarters that the enemy are pre- paring for an attack ; and General de la Marmora has greatly strengthened the Sardinian position on the Tchernaya. On the afternoon of the 13th a brave and distinguished young ofiicer. Major Hugh Drummond, Scots Fusileer Guards, was killed in the advanced trenches. Drafts arrived to the Light Division ; the 71st Regiment, and one squadron of 1st Dragoon Guards, landed at Balaklava. The casualties from the 10th to the 12th were 19 killed; one officer, and 112 wouud»;d. T. H. e2 52 LINE OF THE TCHERNAYA. CHAPTER VIII. Supposed arrival of Grenadiers in tlie Kussian camp — Precautionary mea- sures — Summer residences of the Itiissian nobility — Country liousc of an old French doctor — Tlu; Turks cause liiin and his family alarm and inconvenience — He complains to ( cneral 1 clissier — The result — Booty — Tlie English put a stop to the ilunderins;, but the French are permitted to continue their excursions — Excessive politeness of the marauders. The Allied Camp on toe Tchernaya, August 14. Since I last wi-ote, part ol' the reinforcements which the Russians were expecting have arrived, — at least, positive intelli- gence has been received of the arrival of a division of Grenadiers. In consequence of this intelligence we are more than ever on the alert ; but as these newly arrived troops are concentrated, at least for the present, in and about Sebastopol, if there is an attack at all, it seems to be intended rather against our works in front than the Tchernaya line. It was, nevertheless, thought prudent to keep a part at least of the army on the Tchernaya under arms during the last two nights, and ready for any sudden emergency. Moreover, the Sardinians made yesterday morning a reconnaissance over the plateau on the other side of the Tchernaya and on the banks of the Tchouliou, but without encountering any trace of the enemy. The dis- tance, however, from Sebastopol over the Mackenzie ridge is so small that troops could come in one night from it to the Tchernaya. The English cavalry, which was encamped in the valley of Baidar, yesterday received sudden orders to return, but the French are still there, collecting hay and making excursions to the villas on the sea-side towards Aloupka. These beautiful summer residences of the Russian nobility have long been spared our visits, but they could not altogether escape their fate. The Turkish ti'oops, with the exception of l>ashi-Bazouks and Arnauts, of whom there are none here, are not much given to roam about ; so while they were in tlie neighbourhood of Baidar the country- houses on the sea-side alongtheWoronzoff-road escaped altogetlier. The Turks contented themselves with exploring tlie immediate neighbourhood. Baidar itself and the other villages in the valley afford little in the shape of booty. Moreover, the Turks in general make it a point not to plunder their co-religionists. THE FRENCH DOCTOR'S HOME. 53 and the inhabitants of the valley are mostly Mahommedans. But they found out a little country-house on the sea-shore, called Laspi, where an old French doctor, who had been esta- "blished for many yeai's in Russia, was living with his famUy; and one fine morning a complaint was made to the French General-in-Chief by his countryman that five Turkish soldiei's had come to pay a visit to Laspi. They were received and fed like guests, but before going away they asked for mad jar (Hungarian ducats, the best known foreign money among the Tui'ks). The old doctor, who of course understood nothing of their language but the word madjar, thought it was nothing more than a polite inquiry about his nationality ; and, wishing to rectify the supposed mistake of his guests, he pointed to the French cockade which he had, by a wise precaution, fixed on his cap, in order not to be mistaken for a Russian, saying at the same time " Fran^ais, Fran^ais." But when one of the soldiers took hold of his watch and chain, and when the others began to search the ladies, he was soon aware that it was he, and not the Turks, who had made the mistake. A blow with the butt-end of a musket left him no doubt that resistance was useless, and the soldiers departed after having carried away, according to his account, objects to the value of about 2()0^. General Pelissier, on the complaint of the French doctor, addressed a complaint to the Turkish head-quarters, in order to have things investigated and the guilty punished. The answer was that the Turks had the strictest orders not to plunder, and that any supposition to the contrary was an insult to their character ; that the marauders could not have been Turkish soldiers ; and that the dress and flint muskets, which exist only in the Turkish army, must have been borrowed or taken in order to make believe that they were Turkish soldiers — and thus the aftair remained. The old doctor retired to Baidar, and the ladies went over to the Russians. But this was an isolated case. Since the French and English cavalry have occupied the valley, the visits to the countiy- houses have become much more systematic. The Russians, having entirely withdrawn from the coast up to Yalta, having only isolated Cossack pati'ols about, the whole row of country- houses on the shore has been opened to enterprising individuals, and every morning you could see arabas and pack-horses coming over the Woronzoff-road into Baidar, loaded with the most heterogeneous objects ; chairs, beds, crockery, carpets, 54 LINE OP THE TCHEKNAYA. pictui'es, albums, ladies' -work-baskets, embroidered cualiions, cooking ntensils, wine, and hmidreds of other tilings were brouglit back and sold all along the road. In order to put a stop to these excursions, an English cavalrj' picket was stationed at the archway, which is erected on the highest point of the Woronzoff-road, just before it begins to descend towards tlie sea, and nobody was allowed to enter except with a pass. But this mended things only half — that is to say, no English soldier was permitted to indulge in a roa-ming disposition ; but French marauders as before came, duly provided with a pass, and returned with as much plunder as they could possibly carry. The usual style was a string of pack-horses, mules, or carts, with Lalf-a-dozen camp-followers of the worst description, escorted by a couple of soldiers. The thing seems to have been quite systematically arranged, for they often refused to sell, iinder the plea that they had to share with their comrades, or that the things belonged to officers — very likely an excuse for passing safe. If you showed any curiosity about the affair, you were asked whether you wanted any household furniture, such as chairs, or mirrors, lamps, beds, &c., and were told that you had only to say where the things were to be brought to, and that you should have them. There was nobody at these country-houses, the Cossacks sent only an occasional shot from the distance, and there were two French steamers to keep the road open, which leads quite close to the shore ; so there was full security. I have not heard of any case where the marauders have come to harm. THE BATTLE OF THE TCHEKNATA. Camp on the Tchernaya, August IC. The long-threatened attack of the Russians on the Tchernaya line has at last taken place, and ended in the complete defeat of the enemy. During the last few days the signs of an impend- ing Russian attack became more and more frequent. Move- ments of large numbers of troops in the neighbourhood of Sebas- topol, the unanimous reports of the deserters, of whom several came in every day, and, lastly, information gained from Tartars, who are continually bringing in news from the Russian lines, were all to the effect that the Russians, having received part of the reinforcements which they were expecting, intended to try their luck once more in an offensive operation. Although, at first, the line of the Tchernaya suggested itself PREPARATIONS FOR THE BATTLE. 55 as the point which the Russians would most prohahly attack, a supposition which was moreover confirmed by al! the deserters, yet, as large numbers of newly arrived troops were seen concen- trated in and about the Russian woi'ks, apprehensions were entertained that perhaps the Russians might attempt something against the positions of the allied armies before Sebastopol, and the chief attention was consequently directed to that point. Yesterday again several deserters came in, and spoke with the utmost certainty of an intended attack on the Tchernaya lines ; but as tliis had been already the case several tim.es during the last fortnight, no pai'ticular attention was paid to their reports, and no special orders were given to the troops, except to be prepared for an attack ; and this had been so often repeated that it made no impression. In addition to this, our attention was drawn off from the Lower Tchernaya by the news from Baidar. I wrote in my last letter that when the arrival of fresh troops at Sebastopol became known, the four troops of English Light Cavalry were withdrawn from Baidar, and only two regiments of heavy French cavah'y and a few Chasseurs and Zouaves re- mained in the valley until all the hay collected could be carried away. Yesterday afternoon. General AUonville sent word from Baidar by telegraph that large numbers of Russian troops were concentrated on the heights above the valley, and that he ex- pected to be attacked. The telegraphic message was interrupted by the dense fog which prevailed in the afternoon, but late in the evening notice of this message of Genei'al AUonville's was sent to General La ]\Iarmora and Osman Pasha. As the cavalry at Baidar would be exposed to be cut off if it were attacked by a considerable force, on account of the great number of carts which are down in the valley for the transport of hay, and which would encumber the Woronzoff-road, an attack on that side seemed not at all improbable. From all these circumstances it followed that no additional precautions were taken on the Tchernaya line, and that the attack was scarcely less a surprise than that of Inkermann. The first news of an actual assault was brought about day- break by some French Chasseurs, who, forming part of a patrol, fell into an ambuscade of the Russians, and narrowly escaped, while their comrades were taken prisoners. Soon afterwards the outposts across the Tchernaya were driven in, and about daybreak the cannonade began. For the better understanding- of the movements I must give 56 LIKE OF THE TCHERNAYA. you some description of the locality. The Tchernaya, coining out at the tower of Karlovka from the narrow gorge in which it runs after leaving the valley of Baidar, flows between a suc- cession of hillocks on both sides. These hillocks form the basis of the position of the allied armies. On the extreme right, beginning where the Tchernaya comes out of the gorge down to the little mountain streams which fall into tlie Tchernaya from the south, are the Turks. They occupy two hillocks, and between them are two roads which lead from Higher Tchorgoun and the tower of Karlovka into the Woronzoff-road. The Sar- dinian position leads to the right on the little mountain stream which limits the Tuvkisli position to the left. They occupj^ the large solitary standing hillock which used to be held by the Cossacks, and which extends down to the open ground over which the road from Balaklava to Tchorgoun leads. This hillock had been lately considerably strengthened and provided with batteries, and, as it is a very commanding position, was of the utmost importance in the defence of the Tchernaya line. lu front of this hillock, and divided from it bjj- the aqueduct which begins there, is another smaller but equally steep hillock, acces- sible from the first by a stone bridge, and on this hillock the Sardinians had a small epaulement guarded by a detachment of infantr3\ Beyond both these hillocks, on the other side of ths Tcliernaya, they had moreover on the mound nearest to the Mackenzie-road their outposts, which could thus watch the movements of the enemy and give timely alarm in case of an attack. The French occupy the last series of hillocks to the left of the Sardinians, and guard the road which leads from Bala- klava over the Traktir-bridge up to Mackenzie's farm. The hillocks occupied by thom are three in number; the first, to the right, is separated from the others by tlie great road loading to the bridge ; and the last, to the left, is protected by the basin which the aqueduct forms here, and is separated by another open space, similar to that on the right of the French position, from the ridge on which the army of observation was during the winter. In front of the bridge the French had constructed a small epaulement to guard the passage of the river, beyond which they had their outposts. The first movement of the Russians was against the outposts of the Sardinians on the opposite bank of the river. Correspond- ing to the hillocks on this side of the Tchernaya are tlu'ee pla- teaux on the opposite bank. They were chosen ibr the left of THE FIRST ASSAULT. 57 the Russian position against the Turks and the Sardinians. These pLateaux were, therefore, first to be secured, for the gams coukl command from them not only the hillocks opposite occu- pied by the Sardinians and Turks, but likewise the plain which opens towards the French position. A company of infantry of the line and a company of Bersaglieri formed the Sardinian out- posts. They were attacked at dawn by the Russians. As the troops were not yet under arms it was necessary to hold this position for a while, and General De La Marmora sent over Major Govone, of the Etat-Major, with a company of Bersaglieri, to reinforce the two companies already there. They crossed the aqueduct and the river, and went up the plateau ; but, Avhen they arrived on the crest of it, the two companies had just left the eptxulement behind which they had until then defended them- selves gallantly against the overwhelming numbers of the enemy, but which had become untenable, as it was swept by the guns which the Russians had brought up on the two other plateaux, and besides was exposed to be taken in the rear. So the troops retired in good order across the river, and went to reinforce the post which occupied the second hillock on the banks of the aqueduct. In the mean time the cannonade on both sides had begun. The Russians left us not long in doubt where they would attack, for, scarcely had the cannonade commenced, when three compact masses of infantry were seen advancing towards the plain opposite to the French position. The points chosen were the bridge and the hillock to the right. The masses, which in the morning sun looked like glittering waves, protected by the fire of their artillery, moved in excellent order down to the river side, notwithstanding the heavy fire of artillery which greeted them in front from the French, and in flank from the Sardinians. At the river the first column detached itself from the rest, and dividing into two cobimns crossed the river, which is now nearly everywhere easily fordable. Men carrying move- able wooden bridges preceded, but in the first rush the Russians, without waiting for bridges, went over wherever they could, and dispersing like a swarm of bees, rushed forward in columns, some against the bridge, and others against the hillock on the right. As I said above, the continual apprehension of an impending attack had at last allnj-ed the interest for it, and, notwith- standing the signs which seemed to indicate some movement on the part of the Russians, everybody slept as soundly as possible- 58 LINE OF THE TCIIERNAYA. until awakened by the Kussian guns. Before the troops were properlj'' under arms the Russians were at the bridge and at the foot of the hillock. The 20th Icger and the 2nd battalion of Zouaves had to stand the first shock, and they certainly stood it gallantly. The rush of the Russians was splendid. Without losing their time with firing, they advanced with an ilcui scarcely ever seen in Russian troops. Some French soldiers of Camou's Division,who have during the winter guarded the trenches towards the Quarantine, and have had nearly daily skirmishes with the Russians, assured me that they never saw them moving on in such a style. They were new troops, belonging, accoi'ding to the prisoners and wounded, to the 5th division of the 2nd corps d'annee lately arrived from Poland. But their ardour was soon checked. They could not carry their point, and were, after a short trial, repulsed both on the l^ridge and the hillock. The aqueduct which supplies the Turks, and which runs close to the foot of the hillock, formed the chief defence of the French. About nine or ten feet wide and several feet deep, it skirts the steep hills so close, that it is nearly in all places supported by a high embankment, oflferLng considerable difficulties for an ad- vancing force, and exposing it, as soon as it reaches the top of it, to the musketry fire from the heights. Notwithstanding this difficulty, the Russians crossed it on the right, and were beginning to scale the lieights, when, taken in flank by the Sar- dinian batteries, which fired with admirable precision, they were swept down wholesale and rolled into the aqueduct below. This first rush did not last more than ten minutes. The Russians fell back, but they had scarcely gone a few hundred yards when they were met by the second column, which was advancing a pas de charge to support the fu'st, and both umted and again rushed forward. This second attempt was more suc- cessful than the first. At the bridge they forded the river on the right and left, and forced the defenders of it to fall back. Scarcely was the bridge free when two guns of the 5th Light Brigade of Artillery crossed it and took up a position on the opposite side in an open space which divides two of the hillocks, and through which the road leads to the plain of Balaklava. While those two guns passed the bridge a third crossed the river by a ford, and all three began to sweep the road and the heights. The infantry in the mean time, without waiting for the portable bridges, the greater part of which had, moreover, been thrown awaj' during the advance, rushed breast-deep into thewater. CONFLICT ON THE BRIDGE. 59 clinited up the cmbanktnent, and began to scale the heights on both sides. They succeeded on this point in getting up more than one-half of the ascent, where the dead and wounded aft-erwards showed clearly the mark which they reached ; but by the time they arrived there the French were fully prepared and met them in the most gallant style. Notwitlistanding the exertions and the perseverance of the Eussians, they were by degrees forced back and driven, after an obstinate resistance, across the bridge, carrying away their guns. While this conflict took place on the bridge, the other column again attacked the French right. This time they came on in such a swarm that they could neither be kept back by the aqueduct, nor cowed by the Sardinian guns, which were ploughing long lanes through their scattered lines. On they came, as it seemed, ii-resistible, and rushed up the steep hill with such fury that the Zouaves, who lined the sides of it, were obliged to fall back for a moment before the multitude. You could plainly see the officers leading the way, and animating their soldiers. I parti- cularly observed one gallant fellow, who, at least twenty yards in advance of the whole column, was the &st across the aque- duct, and I saw him still on the side of the hill. This furious rush brought the advancing column in an incredibly short time to the crest of the hillock, where it stopped to form. But the French had not been idle during the time that the Russians were ascending the hill. The Zouaves had only fallen back from the side of the hillock to the main body, which had been drawn up behind the top. Scarcely did the column of the enemy show its head, when the guns opened on it with grape, and a mm'derous fire was poured down upon it by the French infantry. This immediately stopped the advance of the column, which began to waver, but the impetus from those behind was so powerful that the head of it, notwithstanding the unexpected reception, was pushed forward a few yards more, when the French, giving one mighty cheer, rushed upon the advancing enemy, who, shaken already, immediately tui-ned round and ran down, if possible, faster than they had come up. But the mass was so great that all the hurry could not save them, and more than 200 prisoners were taken on the spot, while the hill-side, the banks of the aqueduct, the aqueduct itself, and the river-side Avere filled with the dead and the wounded. The Sardinian and French artillery poured, moreover, a murderous cross-fire into the scattered remains of the column, of which scarcely a shot 60 LINE OF THE TCHERXAYA. missed. It was a complete rout. The French rashetl clown the hill-side and di'ove them far across the plain. This defeat seems to have so completely cowed them that nothing more was attempted against this side. Not so on the bridge. Notwithstanding the heavy loss suf- fered by the second attack, the Russians once more concen- trated all their forces, collected the scattered remains of the column which had been routed on the right of the French posi- tion, and brought up all their reserves to attempt one more attack. They again crossed the river, and the aqueduct too, and tried to take the heights — but in vain ; the French were now thoroughly prepared, and the tenacity of the Russians only served to augment their losses. They were soon seen flying in all directions, followed by the French. This last attack was deci- sive, and immediately the usual Russian preparation for I'ctrcat — namely, the advance of the artillery — showed clearly that the Russians acknowledged themselves defeated and were on the point of retiring. Three batteries, each of twelve guns, which during the greatest part of the attack had been nearly silent, began to open their fire while the scattered remains of the infantry columns rallied behind a rising ground leading up towards the plateau of Ayker, or Mackenzie's height. The Sai'dinians, who, with the exception of the little outpost fight on the opposite side of the Tchernaya, had confined them- selves to support the French by their admirable artillery, which entirely subdued the Russian fire on the opposite plateaux, began now to move across the aqueduct. The Russian riflemen after the last defeat on the right, had retired behind the banks of the Tchernaya, whence they kept up a brisk but ineffective fire. A battalion of Piedmontese, preceded by a company of Bersaglieri, advanced in beautiful order as if on parade, and soon drove these riflemen from their position. It even advanced some way towards the plateaux ; but, as it was not intended to force the heights, it contented itself, supported by other troops, with following the enemy, who was already in full retreat. The French had during the battle brought up a new division (Dulac's). Besides this, the English and French cavalry were in readiness on the plain leading to the river, the ground of the Light Cavalry charge last year, to receive the enemy if he should Ibrce the passage of the river and debouch on the plain. But General Morris would not risk the cavalry on the plain, intersected as it was by the branches of the river, and defended RUSSIAN CAVALRY. 61 as it was still by the Russian guns on the height ; so only two squadrons of Chasseurs d'Afrique followed the enemy. The guns which the Russians had brought up to cover their retreat suffered so much by the fire from our side, which was increased by Captain Mowbray's battery opening upon them from the open ground between the Sardinian and the French positions, that they made off in a hurry. Scarcely a shot was thrown away, and so admirable was the practice, that all the shot fell at or close to the guns, which we could plainly distinguish, as a slight breeze carrying off the smoke left a beautiful view over the whole battle-field. But the Russian guns returned only for a moment under cover, and soon after you could see a brilliant line of cavalry debouching from the rising ground, where it had been hitherto hidden. I could distinguish five regiments — • three in one line, and two other regiments on the flanks in second line. They advanced at a gallop, and, wheeling round, allowed twelve guns to pass, which again opened their fire, but only for a short time, and at half-past nine or ten o'clock the dust on the Mackenzie-road, and the black lines moving off, were the only traces which remained of the so long threatened attack of the Russians. Everybody now rushed to the battle-field, and one look was sufiicient to convince them that the allies had won a real battle on the Tchernaya. Although not quite so obstinate and sanguinary as the Battle of Inkermann, which this afi'air re- sembled in many points, it was a pitched battle. The Russians, as in the Battle of Inkermann, gave up manoeuvring, and con- fided entirely in the valour of their troops. The essential difference was in the manner of fighting. At the Battle of Inkermann the great mass of the Russians fell under the file firing and the bayonets of the infantry, while on the Tchernaya it was the guns which did the greatest execution. Most of the wounded and dead showed frightful traces of round-shot, grape, shell, and canister, so that, as a battle-field, one could scarcely imagine anything more terrible. Nearly all the wounds were on the legs and the head. On the banks of the aqueduct par- ticularly, the sight was appalling ; the Russians when scaling the embankment of the aqueduct were taken in flank by the Sardinian batteries, and the dead and wounded rolled down the embankment, sometimes more than twenty feet in height. The French made every possible despatch to collect the wounded. They were laid on the open space about the bridge until the 62 LINE OP THE TCHERNATA. am'bulances arrived. While there, the Russians, who could plainly see that the French were engaged in bringing help to their own wretched countrymen, suddenly began to open with their guns upon them, repeating the barbarous practice which they had already often previously shown to the troops. A gentleman who was with me at the moment, and who spealcs Russian, asked one of the poor fellows who was trying to trudge along with deep flesh wounds on both his thighs, what he thought of the behaviour of the Kussians m firing among their own wounded ? He answered, " They are accustomed to beat us when we are with them, and there is no wonder that they should try to ill-treat us when we are on the point of escaping out of their power." According to the account of the prisoners, and judging from the straps on the shoulders of the wounded and dead, three divisions were engaged in the actual attack, — the 5th of the 2nd corps (Tarmee (of General Paniutin), lately arrived from Poland, under the command of General Wrangel ; the 12th division of the 4th corps d'ar7nee (Osten Sacken's), formerly under the command of General Liprandi, now under General Martinolep ; and the 17th division of the 6th corps d'armee (Liprandi's), under Major-General Wassielcosky. The prisoners say that even the I'eserves took part in the action. I saw a soldier belonging to the last battalion of the reserves, and he said, that before the attack began, General Gortschakoff, who commanded in person, had a letter from the Empsror read before them, in which he ex- pressed a hope that they would prove as valorous as last year when they took the heights of Balaklava, and then there was a large distribution of brandy. Not a soldier I saw who had not liis bottle lying empty near him, and good-sized bottles they were, too. This brandy distribution was, however, only for the infantry, whom they wished to excite to madness. The artillery got only the usual rations. Besides the three divisions which attacked, there was another, the 7th, whicii occupied Tchorgoun and the heights, but which did not attack except in the small outpost affair of the Sardinians. August IS. The attack has not been renewed, and the French have been for the last two days busy in bringing in the wounded Eussians and burying the dead. Up to yesterday Cv-ening, 1800 wounded and prisoners have been brought in. The number FRENCH AND SAKDINIAN LOSS. 63 of dead, of •whom I have not heard any official estimate, cannot be less than from 1200 to 1500. Of course the hridge and the banks of the aqueduct are the spots most crowded with them. The latter is quite choked up with them, so that it has been forbidden to -water the horses from it, for fear it should prove injurious to their health. The French had three divisions engaged — the Division Fau- cheux to the right, the Division d'Herbillon in the centre of the bridge, and the division (Camou) on the left ; their loss is about 1000 in dead and wounded. The Sardinians had only one division engaged (the Division Trotti), and suffered very little, having lost but a few hundred men ; they have, however, to regret the loss of a distinguished general officer, the Brigadier-General Count de Montevecchio, who is severely wounded, and not expected to live. Not protected by any intrenchments, except that small epaulement near the bridge, which, moreover, could be turned on all sides, our gallant allies, although taken by surprise, showed once more that the Russians have no chance against them in the field — that they must remain behind their earth- works, and be protected by siege guns, in order to establish a Icind of equilibrium with the allies. It is worthy of remark, that the gi-eater part of the Eussians were old soldiers, scarcely one bemg under thirty. According to the account of the prisoners, most of them came from Bakschisei-ai, and they had to attack without resting after their march. They had all large quantities of bread in their foraging sacks hung across their shoulders, but no knap- sacks. The French outpost beyond the bridge consisted of a com- pany of the 2nd regiment of Zouaves. The other avant postes, to the right of the Zouaves up to the Sardinian outposts, were furnished by the 20th leger and the 22nd of the line. The reveil had not yet gone in camp, but some of the men were already busy in preparing their coffee, when the sentinels in advance were alarmed by hearing close at hand the tramp of men, whose forms were yet invisible in the darkness. Discharg- ing their muskets, they ran in to the posts, who had not time to stand to their arms ere they were engaged with overwhelming masses of the enemy. They were driven across the river ; but the desultory firing wdiich took place in this preliminary skirmish had given timely warning to the main guards and to 64 LIXE OP THE TCIIERNAYA. the camps, and the men turned out just as a storm of round shot began to rush over the ground, upsetting cainp-kettles, dashing out tires, and destroying tents in its career. The despatch of Marshal Pelissier is so admirably lucid, that I shall make no apology for adding it to the excellent description of my colleague, who was present during the action from the tirst onset till its close. Head Quarters, before Sebastopol, August 18. Monsieur le Makechal, — You will have learnt by my telegraphic despatches of yesterday and of the day before the general results of the battle of the Tchernaya ; to-day I send your Excellency a detailed report of that battle so glorious for our arms. For some days, although the enemy abstained from any apparent movement, certain indications made us suppose he would attack our lines on the Tchernaya. You know those positions, which are excellent, and which are covered to the full extent by the Tchernaya itself, and b}^ a canal, which forms a second obstacle. The Sardinian army occupies the whole of the right, opposite Tchorgoun ; the French troops guard the centre and the left, which joins after a declivity our plateaux of Inker- mann. Independently of a few fords, which are bad enough, there are two bridges across the Tcheruaj'a and the canal. One, a little above Tchorgoun, is imder the guns of the Pied- montese ; the other, called Traktir Bridge, is below, and almost in the centre of the French positions. Looking straight before one towards the other bank of the Tchernaya, you behold to the right the heights of Tchouliou, which, after extending them- selves in imdulating plateaux, fell somewhat abruptly towards the Tchernaya below Tchorgoun, opposite the Piedmontese. These heights diminish opposite our centre, and starting from that point to the rocky sides of the Mackenzie plateaux, there is a plain about three or four kilometres in width. It is by that plain that the Mackenzie-road leads across the Tchernaya at Traktir Bridge, and, after passing through our pontoons, h-ads into the Bala k lava plain. A strict watch was kept all along our lines — the Turks, who occupy the hilly ground of Balaklava, were on the alert, and watched Alsou; and General d'AUonville, also put on his guard, doubled his vigilance in the high valley of Baidar. My mind was quite at rest, moreover, as regards the extreme right ; it is ADVANCE OF THE ENEMY. G5 one of those mountainous regions where it is impossible to manoeuvre large bodies of men. The enemy could only make false demonstrations there — in fixct, that is what occurred. In the night between the 15th and 16th of August, General d'Allonvillc notified that he had troops opposite him — but his attitude imposed upon the enemj^ who attempted nothing on that side, and dared not attack him. During this time, the main body of the Eussian troops which had descended from the Mackenzie heights with the intention of debouching near Ai Todor, advanced, favoured by night, on the Tchernaya ; to the right the 7th, 5th, and 12th divisions crossed the plain ; and to the left the 17th division, a portion of the 6th and the 4th, followed the plateau of Tchouliou. A strong body of cavalry and 160 pieces of artillery supported the infantry. A little before daybreak the advanced posts of the Sardinian army, placed as videttes as far as the heights of Tchouliou, fell back, and announced that the enemy was advancing in con- siderable force. Shortly afterwards, in fact, the Russians lined the heights of the right bank of the Tchernaya with heavy guns {pieces de position), and opened fire on us. General Herbillon, who commanded the French troops on this point, had made his arrangements for battle to the right of the Traktir-road. Faucheux's division, with the 3rd battery of tho 12th artillery in the centre; his own division, with the 6th company of the 13th ; to the left, Camou's division, with the 4th battery of the 13th. On his side. General De la Marmora had ranged his troops in oi'der of battle. At the same time. General Morris's fine division of Chasseurs d'Afrique, speedily joined by General Scarlett's numerous and valiant English cavalry, took up a position behind the hills of Kamara and Traktir. This cavalry was to take the enemy in flank, in case he should succeed in forcing a passage by one of the three outlets of Tchorgoun, or Traktir, or at the incline to the left of General Camou. Colonel Forgeot, in command of the artillery of the Tcher- naya lines, kept six batteries of horse artillery, two of which belonged to the Imperial Guard, ready to act as a reserve. Six Turkish battalions of Osman Pasha's army, led by Sefer Pasha, came to lend us their assistance. Finall)^ I ordered forward Levaillant's division of the 1st corps, Dulac's division of the 2nd corps, and the Imperial Guard, comprising reserves capable of remedying the most serious contretemps. The thick mist VOL. II. F 66 LINE OF THE TCIIERNAYA. •\vlilch covered tlie depths of the Tchemaya, and the smoke of the cannonade which had just commenced, prevented lis dis- tiugiiishing against which particular point the chief effoi-t of the enemy would be directed ; when, on our extreme left, the 7tli Bussian division came tilt against Camou's division. Keceived by the 50th of the line, the 3rd Zouaves, who charged them ■with the bayonet, and by the 82nd, which took them in flank, the enemy's columns were compelled to make a demivolte to recross the canal, and could only escape the fire of our artillery by getting out of range to rally. That division did not appear again during the day. In the centre, the struggle was longer and more desperate. The enemy had sent two divisions (the 12th supported by the 5th) against Traktir Bridge. JEany of their column rushed at once upon the bridge, and the temporary passages they con- stimcted with ladders, pontoons, and madriers. They then crossed the Tchemaya, the trench of our lines,and advanced bravely on our positions. But, assailed by Generals Faucheux and De Failly, these columns were routed, and the men recrossed the bridge occupied by the 95th, and were pursued bej'ond it by the 2nd Zouaves, the 97th of the line, and by a portion of the 19th battalion of Chasseurs a pied. However, while the artillery was roaiing on both sides, the Eussians re-formed their columns of attack, the mist had cleared, and their movements became distinctly visible. Their 5th division reinforced the 12th, which had just been engaged ; and the 17th was preparing to descend the heights of Tchouliou to support these two first divisions. General Herbillon then ordered General Faucheux to be re- inforced by Cler's Brigade, and gave the 73rd as a reserve to General de Failly. Colonel Forgeot, moreover, placed four batteries of horse artillery in position, which gave him on this front a total of seven batteries to be brought to bear upon the assailing masses. The result was that the second attempt of the Russians, in spite of its energetic character, proved of no avail against us ; and they were compelled to retreat with great loss. The 17th Russian division, which had come down throwing out large bodies of riflemen as skirmishers, had no better success. Received with great resolution by General Cler's Brigade, and by a half battery of the Imperial Guard, harassed on the left by the troops of Tretti's Division, who pressed it closely, that division was compclL-J to recross the Tchernaya, DEFEAT OF THi; RUSSIANS. G7 and to fall tack behind the batteries of position v.'hich lined the heights froai which it had started. From this moment, 9 a.m., the defeat of the enemj- was inevitable. Their long columns withdrew as fast as they could, under the protection of a considerable body of cavalry and artillery. For a moment I felt inclined to order a portion of the cavalry to charge and cut down the remnant of the 17th Russian Division, between the Tchouliou and Traktir bridges. With this object in view, I had prepared some squadrons of Chasseurs d'j\i'rique, who were joined by some Sardinian squadrons, and by one of General Scarlett's regiments, the 12th Lancers (from India) ; but the retreat of the Russians was so prompt that we could only have made a small nimiber of prisoners, and this fine cavalry might have been reached by some of the enemy's batteries still in position ; I deemed it preferable not to expose it for so small a result. General De la IMarmora did not, more- over, stand in need of this support boldly to retake the advanced positions which his small posts occupied on the heights of Tchouliou. At three o'clock the whole of the enemy's army had dis- appeared. The Division of the Guard and Dulac's Division relieved the divisions engaged, as they stood in need of some re.st. I sent back the first corps of Levaillant's Division, and the cavalry returned to its usual bivouack. This splendid action does the greatest honour to the infantry, to the horse artiller}^ of the Garde, to that of the reserve, and to the artil- lery of divisions. I wiU shortly ask yom- Excellencj'- to place before the Emperor the names of those who have deserved rewards, and to submit to the approbation of his Majesty those which I may have awarded in his name. Our losses are doubt- less to be regi-etted, but they are not in proportion to the results obtained, and to those we have inflicted upon the enemy. We have eight superior ofiicers wounded, nine subaltern officers killed, and fifty-three wounded ; 172 non-commissioned officers and soldiers killed, 146 missing, and 1163 wounded. The Russians have left 400 prisoners in our hands. The number of their killed may be estimated at more than 3000, and of llieir wounded at more than 5000, of which number 1626 men and thirty-eight ofiicers have been taken to our ambulances. Among the slain found by us are the bodies of two generals, whose names 1 have not been able to ascertain. f2 68 LIXE OF THE TCHERNAYA. The Sai'dinian arnij', which fought so valiantly at our side, has about 250 men hors dc comhat. It inilicted a much greater loss upon the encmj'. One hundred prisoners, and about 150 wounded, remain in its hands. I am sorry to announce to your Excellency that (ieneral De la jMarmora has informed me that General Count de Montevecchio, whose character and talents he greatly appreciated, was killed gloriously at the head of his brigade. I must point out to your Excellency the rapidity with which General Scarlett's cavalry, placed at my disposal by General Simpson, came up. The martial appearance of these magniticcnt squadrons betrayed an impatience which the happy and prompt result of the battle did not allow me to gratify. The English and Sardinian position batteries, and the Turkish battery which Osman Pasha had sent to Alsou, fired with great precision and success. I thanked Osman Pasha for the promptitude with which he sent me six Turkish battalion;, under Sefer Pasha (General Koscielzki), four of which during the day occupied the passage near Tchorgoun. jSTotliing remarkable took place during the day on the Sebas- topol side. General De Salles and Bosquet were, however, pre- pared to drive back with energy any attack of tlie besieged. I send your Excellencj^ with this report the copy of the plan ibr the battle of the 16th, found upon the body of a Russian General, supposed to be General Eead, who conimanded the enemy's right, and was especially entrusted with the attack on Traktir Bridge. I am, &c., itc, Pelissier, Commander-in-Chief. As this battle really decided the fall of the place, inasmuch as it enabled the Allies to continue without fear of molestation' the armament of those tremendous batteries, wliich would have annihilated the whole forces of Russia inside the walls of Sebas- topol, it may not be uninteresting to add the despatches of General Simpson, Avho was late on the field, and of General De la Mar- mora, who took an active part in directing the operations of the Sardinians on this memorable day. General Simpson wrote as follows : — I'.ErOIlE SEnASTOVOL, Aiif/ust 18. IsIy Loeu, — In my despatch of tlie lith instant, I informed GENERAL SIMPSOx's DESPATCH. CO jour lordship tliat I had reason to helieve that the Eussians would attempt liy a vigorous attack to force us to raise the siege. This they endeavoured to do on the morning of the IGth, hut the result was most glorious to those of the Allied troops who had the good fortune to he engaged. The action commenced hefore daylight, hy a lieavy column of Russians, under the command of General Liprandi, and composed of the 6th and 17th Divisions, with the 4th and 7th Divisions in reserve, attacking the advanced posts of the Sardinians. The ground occupied hy them is on commanding hills on the right of the position, on the left bank of the JSouhaia river, where it forms its junction with the Tchernaya, with two advanced posts on the opposite side. These were held with ver^'' determined gallantry for a considerable time, but being separated from their supports by the river, and not having the protection of artiller}', they were compelled to leave the most advanced one. About the same time, the 5th and 12th Divisions, to which wa.s added a portion of the 17th, advanced against the bridge of Ti-aktir, held by one battalion of French infantry of the line, wlio Avere for a short time obliged to yield and fall back upon the main supports ; with these, however, they quickly retook the bridge at the point of the bayonet. Again the Eussians attacked with persevering courage, and were enabled to follow up their advantage by gaining the heights which rise precipitously on each side of the road ; their success was but momentary — they were driven back across the river, leaving the ground covered with dead and wounded. The Eussian General, in no way daunted by the failure of his two attempts, ordered a second column, of equal force to the first, to attack ; they advanced with such impetuosity^ covered by the fire of their numerous artillery, that a third time the bridge was carried, and the heights above it crowned, but they were again repulsed, and retired in great confusion into the plain, followed by the bayonets of our gallant Allies. The General Officer who commanded the Eussian column, and who is supposed to be General Eead, was killed, and in his pos- session was found the orders for the battle, signed by Prince Gortschakoff, who commanded in person. From these it would appear that it was a most determined attempt to force us to raise the siege. Had they succeeded, Balaklava was to have been attacked by one portion of their army, whilst the heights on which we now are, were to have 70 LINE OF THE TCHERNAYA. "been stormed with the other ; at the same time a vigorous sortie was to have been made from the town on the French worlcs on our extreme left, from the Quarantine, and another on the works on om- extreme right on Momit Sapomie. The action which I have endeavoured to describe is most glorious to the arms of the French and Sardinian troops. To meet the force of the Russians, the former had but 12,000 infantry, and four batteries of artillery engaged ; the latter had 10,000 men in position, 4500 actually engaged, and twenty-four pieces of cannon. The Russian force consisted of from 50,000 to 60,000 men, with 160 pieces of artillery, and cavalry to the amount of 6000. This disparity of numbers wU readily explain to your lord- ship the difficulty that would have been experienced, had an attempt been made to follow up the advantage by a pm-suit. The Russian retreat, moreover, was protected by the lire fi-om the heavy guns in position on the Mackenzie heights. The loss sustained by the Russians is estimated at between 5000 and 6000 men, including 600 prisoners, whilst on the part of the Allies it does not amount to more than 1000 men. ^This brilliant affiiir has caused the greatest delight amongst the ranks of the allied army ; and while it adds fresh lustre to the gallant achievements of the French arms, it is with the utmost pleasure that I have to record the intrepid conduct and gallant bearing of the Sardinian troops, nnder Geneial De la Marmora, who have for the first time met, conquered, and shed their blood against our common enemy, who is now disturbing the peace of Europe. Captain Mowbray's battery of 32-pounder howitzers was placed in advance with the Sardinian troops, and did most excel- lent service in preventing the advance of the enemy's artillerj% Our cavalry, nnder Lieutenant-General Sir J. Scarlett, K.C.B,, was placed in the plain of Balaklava, prepared to take advan- tage of any circumstance that might present itself, but the opportunity did not arise for calling upon their services. I regret that I am unable to give a more detailed account of the part performed b}' the Sardinians, as up to this time I have not received General De la Marmora's report. I have, &c., James Simpson, General Commanding. The Lord Panmure, &c. d-c. tix. FURTHER PARTICULARS. 71 Befobe Sebastopol, August 18. ISIy Lord, — General Pelissier having announced to me, that the batteries against the Malakhoff and adjacent works were prepared to open fire, arrangements were made that a steady fire should be commenced yesterday morning against those works and the Redan. This continued throughout the day, and the effect produced was as much as was anticipated. The Russian fire, which at first answered briskly, became by the evening ieeble. In the afternoon a shell from one of our mortar batteries ignited and caused the explosion of a great number of shells in one of the enemy's batteries, doing apparently much damage. I regi'et to have to report the deaths of Captain Oldfield, of the Roj-al Artillery, and Commander Hammet, of the Roj'al l^&vj, amongst the number of casualties caused by the fire of yesterday. Major C. S. Hemy, of the Royal Artillery, received a severe wound, and has had his right arm amputated ; he is, I am rejoiced to add, doing well. I enclose the list of casualties. I have, &c., James Simpson, General Commanding. Tlie Lord Fanmure, d-c. Ac. fAYA. one wliich had attacked our outposts and the French right in the morning, fell hack upon the zig-zag Mamelon; while a third division followed the road which leads to Mackenzie's farm. I took advantage of this state of things to re-occupy with my troops the zig-zag Mamelon; in which design I succeeded perfectly, in spite of the imposing force which the enemy still retained on that point. In the mean time, three battalions of Turkish troops ad- vanced into the Valley of Tchorgoun, to replace the battalion of Cialdini's brigade, which was occupying the heights of Karlooka. Later in the day, I crossed the Tchernaya with four squa- drons, and marching in a parallel line with the zig-zag Mamelon, came upon the old Russian redoubt, whence I could easily dis- cern, at a little distance before us, a very fine array of regulai' cavalry, supported by horse artillery. It was distributed in twelve separate bodies, and must have been composed of at least fifty squadrons. This cavalry did not fall back on Mackenzie's- road till the whole of the infantry and artillery had effected their retreat. The losses sustained by our troops, a portion only of whom was engaged, Avere very inconsiderable. They amount to about two hundred men placed Itors de combat; and I impute the fact of our not having lost more men mainly to the works with which Ave fortified our position, and to the batteries of heavy guns which you were so obliging as to lend ns for theu* defence. It is, however, m}^ painful duty to announce to yoiu' Excellency that Count Montevecchio, the General commanding the 4th Brigade, is mortally Avounded ; a ball passed through his chest. Pi'ay accept, General, the assurance of my high consideration. The General Commanding-in-Chief the Sardinian Expeditionary Forces, (Signed) La IVIaemoea. To 7iis ExceJkncy the General Commandimj - in - Chief iJie Enijlish Army. The battle had been raging for an hour ere I reached the line of the French works at Fedukhine. From the higli grounds over which I had to ride, the Avhole of the battle- (leld Avas marked out by rolling columns of smoke, and the irregular SPLENDID VIE^y OF THE BATTLE. 75 tbiclj puffs of the artQlery. All oiu- cavalry camps were de- serted ; but the sun played on the helmets and sabres of the solid squadi'ons, -which were drawn up about two miles in advance, and just in rear of the line of hills which the French and Sardinians were defending, so as to be ready to charge the Eussians, should they force the position. The French cavalry, chasseurs, hussars, and two regiments of dragoons, were on our left. Our light and our heavy cavalry brigades were formed in two heavy masses, supported by artillery in the plain behind the second Fedulchine hillock, and seemed in splendid case, and eager for the fray." The allies had, in fact, not less than 6000 very fine cavalry that day in the field, but they were held in check, "for fear " of the artillery, which there is no doubt they could have captured, in addition to many thousands of prisoners, if handled b}' a Seidlitz or a Murat. But the French general would not permit a charge to be executed, though French and English cavalry leaders were alike eager for it, and so this noble force was rendered ineffective. Having passed by the left of the cavaby, I gained the side of the hill j ust as a large body of French troops crowned it at the^«.? double, dej)loyed and at once charged down towards the aqueduct, where a strong column of Eussians, protected by a heavy fire of artillery on the crest of the ridge, were making good their ground against the exhausted French. This new regiment attacking them with extraordinary impetuosity on the flank, literally swept the Eussians like flies into the aqueduct, or rolled them headlong down its steep banks ; and at the same moment a French battery on my right, belonging, I think, to the Imperial Guards, opened on the shattered crowd with grape, and tore them into atoms. This column was the head, so to speak, of the second attack on the lines, and emerging through the flying mass, another body of Eussian infantiy, with levelled bayonets, advanced with great steadiness towards the aqueduct once more. As far as the eye could see towards the right, the flat caps and grey coats were marching towards the allied position, or detaching themselves from the distant reserves, which were visible here and there concealed amid the hills. As the French battery opened, a Eussian battery was detached to answer it, and to draw off their fire ; but cur gallant allies took their pounding with great gallantry and coolness, and were not diverted for a moment from their business of dealing with the infantry column, the head of wlrkii was completely 76 LINE OP THE TCHEKNAYA. Icnocked to pieces in two minutes. Then the officers halted it, and tried in vain to deplo}' th(?m — the column, wavering and wriirglinf^ like a great serpent, began to spread out from the farther extremity like a fan, and to retreat towards the rear. Another crashing volley of grape, and they are Hying over the plain. And now there breaks liigh over all the roar of battle, some new thunder. Those are the deep angry voices of the great English heavy battery of 18-pounders and 32-pounder howitzers, under Mowbra}^ wliich search out the reserves. These guns were placed far away on my right, near the Sardinians, and it is acknowledged by all that they did good service this eventful day. The advance I had just wit- nessed was the last effort of the enemy. Their infantry rolled in confused masses over the plain on the other side of the Tchernaj'a, was pursued by the whole fire of the French batteries and of the 8-inch English howitzers in the Sardinian redoubt, and by a continuous and well-directed fusillade, till they were out of range. Their defeat was announced by the advance of their cavalry, and by the angry volleys of their artillery against the positions of the allies. Their cavalry, keeping out of range, made a very fair show, with lances, and standards, aud sabres shining brightly — but beyond that they did nothing — and, indeed, they could do nothing, as we did not give them a chance of action. The Russians were supported by guns, but they did not seem well placed, nor did they occupy a good position at any time of the fight. Tho infantry formed in square blocks in the reai* of this force, and then began to file otf towards the Mackenzie-road, and the Prench rocket battery opened on them from the plateau, and, strange to say, reached them several times. It was about eight o'clock when their regular retreat commenced, and the English cavalry and artillery began to retire also at that hour -to their camps, much discontented, because they had had no larger share in the honours of the day. The march of the Russians continued till late in the day — their last column gained the plateau about two o'clock. It must have been a terrible march for them — not a drop of water to be had ; and even when they gained their arid camp it is only too probable that they had nothing to drink ; indeed, the prisoners told us, the men were encouraged to the attack by being told that if they gained the Tchernaya they would have abundance of water — the greatest inducement that could be held THE RUSSIANS FIRE ON THE WOUNDED, 77 out to them. I rode down towards the tctc-de-pont. In order to get a good view of the retreat, I descended to the bridge, v;hich was covered with wounded men. Just as I gained tlie centre of it, a volley of shells was pitched right upon it, and amid the French, who, with their usual humanity, were helping the wounded. Some burst in the shallow stream, the sides of which were crowded with wounded men — others killed poor wretches who were crawling towards the water — one in particular, to whom I had just an instant before thrown a sandwich ; others knocked pieces out of the bridge or tore up the causeway. As the road was right in the line of fire, I at once turned off the bridge, and pulling sharp round, dashed under an arch just as the battery opened on us a second time, and there I remained for about ten minutes, when the Russians seemed ashamed of themselves, and gave us a respite for a few moments. The next time they fired was with round shot ; and as I retreated up the road, to obtain shelter behind one of the hills, one of these knocked a wounded Zouave to pieces before my eyes. In the rear of the hill there was a party of about 500 Russian prisoners en bivouac. jMany of them were wounded ; all were war-worn, dirty, ill-clad, some in rags, others almost bootless. The French sentries who guarded them seemed to commiserate the poor fellows, but two or three of their own officers, who sat apart, did not look at them, but smoked their cigars with great nonchalance, or talked glibly to the French officers of the fortune of war, precautions hecame necessary on account of the large number of waggons and arabas which, having only the Woronzoff road to retire by, Avould run the risk of being captured should the Eussians attack in force. Besides, the French have lately brought over great part of their cattle to these valleys, where the grass is still plentiful, while that in the neighboui'hood of Sebastopol is quite scorched. Notwithstanding their late frequent hegiras the cattle have been very much improved by this change, and have lost that skeleton look which they shared formerly with their oomrades confined to the neighbourhood of the Monastery of St. George ; but — I don't know whether from change of diet, or because they were already too fiir gone — many of them have died, and the two vallej's, so sweet formerly, are now quite the reverse, for the carcasses are left lying about or thrown among the bushes, and there are no vultures to feast upon them. When one remembers the host of those scavengers which infested our army during the past winter, it seems strange that there should not be one to be seen now. Whether they have been disgusted by the numbers of paid Tartar and Croat scavengers enlisted by the allied armies, and dreaded starvation, or whether they found more choice morsels on the Russian side, where there may be likewise a good deal to excite their gluttony, or, lastly, whether they are driven away by the heat, I cannot tell. The HighlandBrigade,under Brigadier-General Cameron, seems destined to be a permanent reserve for the Piedmontese. They came down, as I wrote to you in my last letter, on Saturday morning, the day on which the Russian attack has been posi- tively expected, and have remained since encamped on a slope behind Kamara. This was the first occasion on which English troops have come into immediate contact as neighbours with the Piedmontese. Hitherto their acquaintance had only been carried at a distance. The Sardinians, who from the very beginning had been encamped on this side, were only rarely seen about the British camp, and the intercourse was mostly confined to a passing "bono," which seems to have become the first uni- versally received word in the cosmopolitan language which is gradually coming into general use out here. There was much 106 TIIK LULL EEFOUE THE STORM. more companionsliip between the French and Piedmontese, as many of the latter, as well as the Savoyards, speak French, and they were close neighbours on the Tchernaya. But from all one sees, now that thej- are close to each other, the inability to express their feelings does not prevent the Highlanders and Piedmontese from entertaining reciprocal feelings of good will, the neighbouring canteens furnishing the means of eloquence to both parties. Scarcely three days have elapsed since their first acquaintance, and the frequent mingling of red coats with gray ones must strike every eye. The Sardinian band, which plays every evening on an open space in the centre of the Piedmontese camp, seems to be the rendezvous where the first step towards acqiiaintanceship is made. I don't know whether it be by the law of contrasts, or from the coincidence that both are distinguished from the other corps of their respective armies by their peculiar dress, but it seems to me that the most intimate intercourse exists between the tiny Bersaglieri and the tall Highlanders.. In consequence of the daily apprehension of an attack, the English cavalry is turned out regularly every morning, and comes down to the valley, as if haunting the ground where its comrades fell, and watching an opportunity to revenge them. The disasters which befell our cavalry last year have left no trace, and. Phoenix like, it has arisen more brilliant than ever from its ashes. The effect is imposing — perfect, one might say, if anything human could be called so. Horses and men are in excellent condition, as fit for work as any cavalry can be. It would not, however, be at all desirable that this daily expe- dition should continue. It has, indeed, the advantage of saving the turning out for parade, so that the horses rest after they come back from the valley, and have only to go down for water; but if those morning rides are to last, they will soon bring down the horses in condition, and then they would have some difficulty in facing a Crimean winter, even in good stables. This was, I think, last year fatal to the horses. In September and October harassing outpost duties reduced them, and you could see every day detachments of cavalry hunting sly Cossacks towards the Tchernaya, so that the horses weie in very indifferent condition when the first rains began, and, with their weakened constitutions, could not face hunger, wet, and cold. Omar Pasha is expected every moment. Yesterday the honses were sent down again for him to Kamiesch. He will retain the command of the Turkish troops in the Crimea, visit ANTICIPATIONS. 107 Yenikale and Eupatovia, and then go to Asia, wliere tlie Russians are pressing upon Kars, taking with him a division from these parts. There is not much chanee that he will do anything- there this year; the season is too far advanced, and in a mouth, or at most six weeks, campaigning in Asia will be over. He may, however, accomplish much in re-organizing the army durinsr the wintei*. E- CHAPTER XIII. The first, of September — Prospect of another winter in the Crimea — Terrible cfTcct of tlie bombardment — lload-making — ^Magazines — How tlie Croats enjoy thcmselve.s — The "Vanity Kair" at Kadikoi sup- pressed — Spies — S-tory of the arrest of a Polisli officer in Englisli imiform — Accumulation of stores — Lavisli expenditure — Nuts for John Bull to crack — Spanish mules — Auxiliaries from every region — Trans- ports — Land Tr.insport Corps— Army Works Corps — Mounted Staff Corps — Ambulance Corps — M. Soyer — Disasters in tlie Allied Camp — Progress of the Siege — Fearful explosion in the Mamelon — Daring attempt of the Russians to gain possession of a portion of the English works — Loss in the affair. Before Sebastopoi,, September 1. There is many a fine fellow in camp thinking this morning of some pleasant terrain, where partridges abound, and friends are gathered intent upon harmless slaughter, who will never see the old country again. It is to he hoped, indeed, that om- army will not suffer so severely this month as it did in the corres- ponding period of last year, after the victory of the Alma, and the forced march to Balaklava; but it cannot be forgotten, that with a small force on this plateau, we then suffered many losses from sickness, and that we have not now such " seasoned troops" as the veterans of Varna and Btilgaria, while the numbers of men and animals, and the consequent sources of disease, have been enormously increased, and are now accumulated in the same space of ground. The army is, it appears, by common consent, doomed to remain here another winter, which may be, that the will of Heaven and the improvidence of man will render more terrible in its effects than the last. There is no apparent reason why we should not succeed in establishing ourselves on the south side, ere the frost and snow interrupt active operations. The case will be altered this time twelve- month, should the Russians be able to maintain their army till then. Mortars are coming in by scores, and there is abundance 108 THE LULL BEFORE THE STORM. of sliells and fuses for the present use of our batteries. Sebas- topol has an insatiable raaw ibr nuiterial, and devours tons ■upon tons of iron witliout any apparent inconvenience. Even when there is no " fire," no bombardment, the mass of am- munition expended in reducing the fire of the phice, and in covering our own and preventing the enemy's works, is, to a civilian, incredible. After the failure of June 18, our cannonade languished. We talked of it as slackening, and considered it extinct. Prince Gortscbakofi' assures the world that it was a inere squib, a feeble firework, which did those tough Russians no harm, and caused their troops no inconvenience ; and yet, somehow or other, between the 18th of June and 18tli of July, not less than eight thousand pretty little globules of ii'on, eight, ten, and thirteen inches in diameter, and falling with a weight in the first instance equivalent to fifty, and in the second to fifty to ninety tons, were deposited inside the lines of Sebas- topol, and every one that burst sent forth some six or eight fragments, of several pounds weight each, a distance of two or three hundred yards, unless they were stopped in transitu by traverse or sinew. The eiFect of the fire of two hundred mortars (of which we are now talking), properly protected by horizontal fire, would speedily render the portion of the south side within range quite untenable, and if once we gained the hills and ridges on which either the Bastion du Mat, the Redan, or the MalakhofF is seated, we should be in a position to com- mand the whole of the harbour and roadstead of Sebas- topol. Nor does it seem likely that the enemj' could construct any very efficient defences on the steep descent which leads to the water's edge, at the other side of the works, such as would hold us in check if once we had entered the place, or that the Russians would risk their army \)j defending them. The pre- parations for road making and road repairing are promising for the winter. The railway is to be trenched in and ballasted up, the per- manent way is to be placed in perfect order ; but, unless the dis- gusting brutality of the men who drive the horses on the line be restrained, we shall have no horse power left to work it. It was but yesterday I saw a ruffian beating a horse across the loins with the heavy billet of wood used to cog the wheels when the truck halts on an incline. The navvies understood how to use their horses ; the men of the Land Transport Corps, some of them at least, seem to do their best to kill them, and to destroy the trucks as fast as they can. The men of the Ai-my Works Corps "vanity fair." 109 (how many " Coi-ps " is poor John Bull paying for ?) are busily engaged in road making and road repairing, and the lines for the tramway from Kadikoi to the Woronzofl" road, and from the Col de Balaklava to Kamlesch, have been survej'ed and laid down by Mr. Beatty and Mr. Campbell, but it is uncertain when our allies will begin to make them. Magazines are in course of erection, but it is to be regretted that tlio best use has not been made of the iron buildings sent out for the purpose. They are senii-cylindrieal in form, and as they are now placed on the ground their capacity is compara- tively small, but if they had been raised on stone walls only three feet high, they would have contained, as any one may con- ceive, a very much greater quantity of stores. The Croats — those interesting creatures to whom we pay 3s. a day for the cultiva- tion of luxurious idleness and tobacco smoking — have at last been set to work on the roads, and may now be seen in pic- turesque groups alternating between the use of the pick and the enjoyment of the pipe on the side of the French road, past our cavalry camp beyond Kadikoi. "Vanity Fair" has been partly closed; numy of the booths have been shut up for tbe time, and the proprietors warned off for the present, and Kadikoi now presents a desolate and neglected aspect. The cause of this abrupt proceeding is not exactly known — some say, " spies," others " dirt;" but at all events, the Crimean Donnybrook,— where luxuries were so bad and abundant, and where comforts were not unknown — where the poor Provost jMarshal imderwent daily attacks of despair and frenzy — where Midas lived in every booth, thievish avarice haunted every turning, and the scum of Europe bubbled up and boiled over, — has been sadly curtailed in its fair proportions. All the sutlers, with some exceptions made in favour of the better class of the merchants, such as Mr. Oppenheim, Mr. Crockford, and one or two more, have been obliged to remove, and those who are considered deserving of the indulgence have obtained permission to erect booths in the new bazaar, for which a site has been marked out at the rear of the Second and Fourth Divisions, and to the flank and front of the Guards' camp. There is a report that the fair was a nest of spies — strange fires were occasionally lighted up on the hills behind it, towards Karanyi, and were answered by the Russians on the plateau I\Iackenzie, and people came and departed as they listed without any interu'rence with their movements. So " they say;" but I 110 THE LULL BEFORE THE STORM. tliink the real reason was, that Colonel Harding got angry at the evil habits of the people, who permitted dirt, offal, bones, bottles, and nasty things of all kinds, to accumulate, and would «ot clear them away when ordered to do so. In fact, the fair was becoming too large and too troublesome. As to spies, they arc to be looked for elsewhere. It has just been reported that the Polish officer who deserted to us from Tchorgoun, at the Karanyi races, some months ago, was caught yesterday in an English officer's uniform trying to get over to the Russians. He lived long at head-quarters, and could tell a good deal of what passed there, but I am inclined to think there is a mistake, and that the Pole has been sent away long ago. It is certain that a man was brought in to head-quarters di'essed in a new English tunic, and was examined by General Simpson and Colonel Pakenham, but whether it v/as our amusing friend who sang good songs and told such amusing stories I am not in a position to state. Some divisions have managed to get together a considerable accumulation of stores in advance, and almost in anticijjalion of the winter. Hum for a month, forage for three weeks, and several days' supply of meat have been collected in some cases ; but fuel is brought up de die in diem by a most thriftless process. It is no unusual thing to see a string- of fine Spanish mules and ponies, each of which has cost a good round sum, coming fi-om Kasatch or Balaklavawith a couple of stout boughs lashed to ea(;h side of then- pack saddles, the ends trailing on the ground, and the di-ivers \irging them at full speed. The proper load of wood for a mule is 2001b. Judging by the loads I have seen weighed, they actually carry less than 1001b., and at the same time the costlj' pack saddles are ruined, and the animals distressed and injured by this clumsy mode of carriage. How the money is Hying ! If Mr. John could but get up on one of the hill- tops here, andif after gladdening his heart with the sight of his fine fleet floating grandly on the water outside the " beleaguered city," — rejoicing over his brave sons whose white tents stud the brown steppe row after row — and rubbing his hands with delight at the thunder of his batteries — he would just wipe his glasses and look at the less glorious and exciting por- tions of the scene, he v/ould have some uneasy tinglings in his breeches' pocket, depend on it. " Where are all these horses going to ?" " Oh, they're Spanish horses, which have been cast by the artillery, and they're going to be sold as unfit for service." " Wliy, Lord bless nic ! it's only a ^ew months since I paid AUXILIARIES. Ill 30,000/. for that very lot, and they've done notliing I hear but stand at their picket ropes ever since. They cost me, I'm sur^, carriage and all, 100/. a-piece. What do you think I'll get lor them ?" " Well, sir, to tell you the truth, I don't think as how they'll fetch more than 10/. a-head, if so much." To speak plainly, for the old gentleman's peace of mind, I would not advise him to be too inquisitive, and a visit to the camp, when in its most flourishing condition and healthy aspect, might injure his nerves irremediably. " Who are those fi'llows in that secluded valley, hunting among the vines for some grapes, while their horses are left to wander through the neglected gardens P" " They belong to Division A, or B, or C, or D ; see the letter branded on the horses' flanks. They are Tm-ks, Elamites, Affghans, dwellers in Mesopotamia, Kurds, Parthians, Canaanites, Greeks, for whose services in the Land Transport CorjDS you, John, pay daily the sum of 'Bs. per man, and they ought now to be carrying up provisions fur your soldiers, but, being philoso- phers of the Epicm-ean school, they prefer the pursuit of the grape and the insouciance of the siesta to tramping over dusty roads, or urging their mad career down stony ravines on thy much be-whacked quadrupeds !" " And those miles of mules and carts winding all along the plain, emerging from ravines, ascending hills, and that vast army of drivers in quaint attire, the concentration of the floating vagabondage of the world, the flotsam and jetsam of the social life of every nation, civil and barbarous, on earth — to whom do they belong, and v/ho pays them and for them .P" " Even you, my dear sir, and ver^- handsomely too, I can assure you." " And those ships in Balaklava ?" " Yours again, sir ; but don't be uneasy ; things are managed better there now; occasionally the authorities root out a great demurrager, and send her off" hopping after she has lain -perdu some months doing nothing. The other day the Walmer Castle, a fine Indiaman, sir, was sent off at last — she had been in Balaklava since last February, doing nothing but aflJbrding comfortable lodgings for a few of the authorities — but we wont talk of these things any more, for really the arrange- ments are now much improved." — " Who are those officers in blue, with grey, yellow, and red facings — apparently men of rank, with stars and crowns and lace on their collars .P" " They are of the Land Transport Corps — captains and quartermasters of brigade." " Kallo ! is there a theatrical company here? Who're the queer-looking chaps with tlie huntsmen- in -Z>er 112 THE LULL LEFORE THE STORM. Freischiitz-c^c^s and tunics, smoking short pipes, and driving their carts like so many Jehus?" " Well, we have the Zouave Theatre and the Sailors' Theatre, but these men belong to Colonel McMurdo, and certainly they have let their hats get cruelly out of shape ; they were neat enough, and looked well while the rosettes were clean, but now " " And who are the gentlemen in gray, with black braid and swords and pouch- belts and telescopes — some new riflemen, eh ? — capital dress for sharpshooters." " Why, dear me, sir, don't you know tliose are harmless civilians, who never want and never wish to shoot any one or to be shot at either ? They are civil engineers and civi- lians belonging to your recently formed Army Works Corps." " Hallo, here's another — what's he ? a felt helmet with a spike in it and brass binding— a red frock with black braid — a big horse — a cavalry man, eh P" " Well, he's one of the Mounted Staff Corps, and he gets as much as an Ensign in the line lor being ready to go anj'where — when he's wanted." " VVHio's that drunken fellow — an old soldier in the odd uniform, with medals on his breast ?" " Hush ! he's the last one left of the Ambu- lance Corps. They cost a lot of money, and did some good, but McMurdo wont have them now, unless he gets his own way with them, and " " I beg your pui'don, but who is that foreign officer in a white bournous and attended by a bi'illiant staff of Generals — him with the blue and silver stripe down his trousers I mean, and gold braid on his v/aistcoat, and a red and Avliite cap; it must be Pelissier?" "That! why that's J\L Sorer, chef de iios hcdtcries de cuisine, and if you go and speak to him, you'll find he'll talk to you for several hours about the way your meat is wasted ; and so I wish you good morning, sir, and everj- success in trade and commerce to enable you to pay all the gentlemen j-ou have seen to-day, as well as a speedy entry into Sebastopol." Ah ! that is indeed what we all desire ; there are few indeed who would wish to go away ere we had strolled as masters through its streets, and tried the strength of the Eussian Torres Vedras from Mackenzie's Farm to the lines of the Belbek. This week has not enabled us to boast of our progress, and it has produced two disasters which, although of a trifling nature, have, no doubt, inspired the Eussians with confidence, and com- pensated them to a certain extent for the progress our armies have made in their sap. The first of these was the explosion of a French magazine near the JMamelon, which was caused by a KXPLOSION IN THE FKKXCII CAMP. 113 Ivussian shell ; tlio second was tlie tLMiiponiry success oi' tho Russians in our iif'th parallel on Thursday ni;j;ht. Further details will he found helow. I may add that the firin<.if is tolerahlj' brisk all da}' ; about a gun every second bellows from one side or another from dawn till dusk ; then begins a heavier cannonadi! from the Kussians in order to catch our reliefs, and a bombardment from the allies, and before dawn there are generally tremendous bursts of ordnance. The twittering rattle of small arms never ceases in the advanced trenches daj' or night. August -TO. The camp, from one extremity to the other, was this morning, at one o'clock, shaken by a prodigious explosion, which pro- duced the effects of an earthquake. A deplorable accident had occurred to our gallant allies as they were pursuing their works with their accustomed energy. A tumbrel, from which they were dischai'ging powder into one of the magazines near the ManiClon, was struck by a shell from the Russian batteries, which burst- ing as it crashed through tho roof of the carriage, ignited the cartridges within; the flames reached the powder in the magazine, and, with a hideous roar, 1400 rounds of gunpowder rushed forth in a volcano of fire to the skies, shattering to atoms the magazine, the tumbrels, and all the surrounding works, and whirling from its centre in all directions over the face of the Mamelon and bej'ond it, 150 officers and men. Of these, 40 were killed on the spot and the rest are scorched and burnt, or wounded by splinters, stones, and the shot and shell which were thrown into the air by the fiery eruption. Masses of earth, gabions, stones, fragments of carriages, and heavy shot were hurled far into our works on the left of the French, and wounded several of our men. The light of the explosion was not great, but its roar and the shock it gave the earth were very consider- able. The heaviest sleepers awoke and rushed out of theii- tents. There was silence for an instant, and but ibr an instant, as the sullen thunder I'oUed slowly away and echoed along the heights of Inkermann and Mackenzie, then the Russians, leaping to their guns, cheered loudly, but their voices were soon smothered in the crash of the French and Fnglish batteries, which opened along the right of the attack, and played fiei'cely upon their works. The Russians replied to our fire, but they were unaljle to take any advantage of our mischance, owing to the firmness of the French in the advanced trenches and tho VOL. II. I 114 THE LULL BEFORE THE STOrxJI. steailinoss with which the cannonade was continued. A bright moon li^-hted up tlie whole scene, and shed its rays upon a huge pilhir of smoke and dust, Avhich rose into the air from the Jlumelon, and towering to an immense height, unfolded itself and let fall from its clustering waves of smoke and sul- phurous vapour a black precipitate of earth, fine dust, and pebbles, mingled with miserable fragments, which dropped like rain upon the works below. The dark cloud hung like a pall for nearly an hour over the place, reddening every moment with the rcilcction of the flashes of the artillery, which boomed in- cessantly till dawn. The musketry was very heavy and fierce all along the advanced trenches, and as no one except those in the parallels near the IMamelon knew the precise nature of the explosion, great anxiety was manifested to learn the truth. Some persons asserted that the Russians had sprung a mine — others that the French had blown in the counterscarp of the Malakhoif — and here, with the very spot under their eyes, people were Conjecturing wildly v/hat had taken place. Just like tliose at home who do not hesitate to make the boldest assertions respect- ing the events which have occurred here, and of which they know neither the scene nor the circumstance. But with the morning came the exact news, and also the cheering intelligence that no damage of importance had been done to the parapet or to the works of our gallant allies, for whose loss all felt the- liveliest sympathy. The weight of powder exploded was nearly seven tons, or 1400 rounds of 101b. each. Four officers lost their lives by this deplorable accident ; and if Ave take into con- sideration that there were several hundreds of men in and about the Mamelon and the adjacent parallels, it must be admitted that it is wonderful that the loss of life and limb was not much greater. The shell which did the damage was fired from a moitar, of which the Russians possess comparatively few, although it is quite evident that they have recently received a supply of that arm, from the fact that the number of mortar shells thrown into our works is much more numerous than. before. A RUSSIAN SORTIE. 115 CHAPTER XIV. Humoured insurrection in Sebastopol — Sufleringrs of the garrison — rearful Josses on both sides — Tlie crisis approaclies — Crimean play-bill — Delight of the audience — Kertch and Yenikale thnatened — Ulliccvs killed and missing — Grand sclieines of the Kussians — Probable result of these — Eagerness of tho allied troops for a conflict — Arduous nature of service in the trenches — luediciency of the recruits — Mere lads sent out as ollicers — Duty in the trenches too much for the new corner.^ — Medical department — Strength of the British contingent — The French sap close to tlie abatlis of the JMalakliOj'l' — A fuiious cannonade and a sortie — Letter to the Fourth Division from Lady Georgina Cathcart. September 1. There have been rumours for the hist few days that the garrison of Sebastopol is in an extremely disorganized state, and there are even positive statements that a revolt took place three nights ago, that a brisk firing of musketry, very irregular, vras heard inside the town, mingled with ci'ies and disorderly shouting. A deserter reported the fusillade of an officer of rank and nearly 100 men, who had disobeyed orders. There is no doubt that the losses in the town are frightful, and that, not- withstanding their official and non-official declarations, the Russians suffer from want of water and of spirits. The army on the Belbek and along Jlackenzie^s ridge seems to have diminished in numbers very much. For hours I watch their huts and tents, and can see no men moving about their camp, and it is most likely that the bulk of the men have retired to the Belbek for water. Indeed, it is confidently aftirm^ed, that owing to the deficiency of forage, their cavalry have been com- pelled to fall back on the road to Bakshiserai. Their tele- graphs are busy at work, and at night revolving lights or flash lights can be seen from the extreme ridge of Mackenzie towards Aitodor up to Inkermann. It would be worth while to ascertain the truth of these reports, were it not for the disastrous results any unsuccessful movement to storm the heights would produce on the operations of the siege. The Russians have thrown up another battery, close to the Spin- Battery; it commands a small path from the Tchernaya. Possibly they expect an attack from us. Their last defeat has destroyed their morale, and we are assured that the convoys of wounded from Sebastopol are ordered to take a detour, so as not to pass through the camps on their way to Sinipheropol and Bakshiserai. Oi\ the other hand, the French, i2 11 § THE LULL BEFORE THE STOEJL •with tlioir usual energy, are constructing extremely strong redoubts on the site of the old redoubts in the plain, which were so miserably made by us, and to which, among other causes, Ave may attribute the disastrous loss of the 25t]i of October, when they were abandoned by the Turks. These woi'ks are in coimexion with the outer line of defence from Kamara, Traktir, and Tchorgoun, and the Sardinian and Turkish batteries towards Baidar, and behind them are the old batteries and redoubts defending Bala- klava, wliich is now one of the strongest positions in the world. The attack on the Malakhoff may possibly talce place within a few weeks after these lines are penned — if so, you will learn the result ere they reach you. Our gallant and admirable allies are losing heavily, I regret to say, in the White redoubt which they captured on the 7th of June. The 12-gun battery on the nortli side takes them in flank and reverse, the Mala- khoff enfilades them on the other side, and they are exposed to the direct fii'e of the shipping in front. They gaily call the place " r Abattoir," and it is said they lose one-half of the men who go into it every day. As for ourselves, the Adjutant-General's lists show what our losses are, and I hope impress on the autho- rities at home the necessity of keeping our depots full, and our draughts constantly en route to the Crimea. About fifty men Jiors de combat in every twenty-four hours soon tell on the efficiency of a small arn>y. It is in effect the demolition of a regiment in ten days. However, these rumoui's to which I have alluded, give hope once more that this endless camion- ading may soon be silenced in the shouts of victory. Certainly the spirit and morale of the men are excellent. As for Jack Tar, he shall speak for himself. This is the bill of his play — Theatre Royal, Naval Brigade. On Friday Evening, 31st of August, will be Performed Deaf as a Post ! To be followed by The Silent Woman. The whole to conclude with the laughable Farce entitled Slasher and Crasher. Seats to be taken at 7 o'clock. Performance to commence precisely at 8 o'clock. God save the Queen ! Rule Britannia ! And right well they played. True, the theatre was the am- putating house of the Brigade, but no reflections as to its future and past use marred the sense of present enjoyment. The A CRIMEAN BALLLT GIRL, 117 scenes were furnished from " The London," the actors from the Brigade. There was an agreeable ballet girl, who had to go into the trenches to work a 6S-pounder at three o'clock in the morning, and Rosa was impersonated by a prepossessing young- boatswain's mate. Songs there were in plenty, with a slight smack of the forecastle, and a refrain of big guns booming down the ravine from the front ; but they were all highly appreciated, and the dancing was pronounced to be wortliy of Her Majesty's ere Terpsichore and Mr. Luniley retired from the concei'n. Nor were fashionable and illustrious person;iges wanting to grace the performance with their presence, and to relieve the mass of 2000 connnoners who cheered and laughed and applauded so good-humouredly. Your elegant contemporary's types need not have blushed to print such names as the " Duke of Newcastle," who paid marked attention to Deaf as a Post, and led the encore for a hornpipe of the fii'st force; as " Lord Rokeby," who was as assiduous as his Grace, besides those of generals, brigadiers, lords, and honourables. The sense of enjoyment was not maiTed by the long range guns, which now and then sent a lobbing shot near the theatre and never did any harm ; and if the audience were amused, so were the per- formers, who acted with surprising spirit and taste. What would old Benbow or grim old Cloudesley Shovell have thought of it all? 11 O'CLOCK, A.M. It is rumoured that Kertch and Yenikale are in danger of being attacked by a large force of Russians. The " Himalaya" came round from Kasatch this morning, and tliey are in such a huiTy to get her off again that they are watering her out of the ships in harbour. It is believed she will take a party of cavalry round to Kertch forthwith. The cavalry are sickly — many men ill, but not dangerously so. No wonder that they are ill, for the recruits sent out to us are miserable. When in full dress they are " all helmet and boots." The Army Works CJorps have lost twelve men by cholera. There was a sortie early this morning on the advanced trenches of our right attack, and the Russians kept up a very heavy fire on our working parties. Colonel W^alker, Scots Fusilier Guards, was slightly wounded, and Lieutenant Wolseley, R.E., received a small contusion from a piece of stone. In the Second Division, which furnished men for the trenches, one officer was killed, Captain L. Fraser, 95th (died 118 THE LfLL BEFORE THE ST0R5r. of wounds), and two wounded — the latter, Mtijoi- Graham, 41st (amputation of arm) ; Lieutenant Forbes, 30th (amputation of shoulder-joint). Captain Ross, Buffs, is missing. The " Sphinx" arrived off Balalclava, and Sir E. Lyons came round from Kasatch, and went back by her to the iieet. Lord Stratford de Kedcliffe and retinue took their departure for Therapia yesterday. The " Andes" has also arrived in port. September 3. There is a general belief that the Russians are about to try the chances of war once more, and that in one grand attack alon;^ the whole of our line they are prepared to assault the allies with 90,00() men at three or four points between Baidar and the gorge of Inker- mann, and at the same time to make a general sortie in great force fiom Sebastopol on the left, centre, and riglit of om- works. Prince Gortschakoff, General Liprandi, General Paniutin, and General Osten-Sacken are mentioned as the directors of the attacking columns on certain points, which have been indicated to us by information derived from the enemy's camp. The mass of the Russian forces is supposed to be at present con- centrated on the cultivated plateau between Kamishli and Kalankoi, on the south side of the Belbek, supported by divisions echeloned on the road to Bakshiserai. Near Kalankoi " a bad and difficult" mountain road to Balaklava crosses the Belbek, strikes off to the right to Mackenzie's farm, descending thence from the plateau, crosses the Tchernaya at the bridge of the Traktir, now famous as the scene of the brilliant action of the 16th of August, and sweeps across the plain of Balaklava, intersecting in its course the Woronzoff road. Several paths or indifferent roads branch from tliis grand causeway ere it descends the plateau of J\Iackenzie's Farm, leading bj'Chuliou and Ozenbasch towards Baidar, and it is thought that the Rus- sians may have put these in tolerable condition, and rendered them available for the passage of troops and artillery. It seems almost incredible that any General would trust his army among those defiles and mountain-passes, because a failure on the part of the corps on his right to seize Tchorgoun and Kamara would leave himwithout support, and an active enemy could easilj- pursue and crush him before he could possibly gain the plateau from which he had descended, and get under the cover of the guns of his intrenched camp. However, we are told that such an attempt will be made, and that Tchorgoun and Traktir are to be attacked once more, while a strong Russian column, advancing along the EXPECT ATIOXS OP AN ATTACK. 119 Baidar road, drives in the Turks and French, and menaces Balaklava by the heights over the sea. Nothing would give such universal satisfaction to the whole ai'my as another attempt by the enemy to force our position. If the Russians descend into the plain we are sure of success, and the prospect of a sanguinary engagement would give positive pleasure to both officers and men, alike weary of the undistinguished, if not inglo- rious, service of the trenches. With nearly 3000 English cavalry and upwards of 5000 French sabres we ought to make signal examples of our defeated foes in their retreat, and our 50 field guns, all in high efficiency and order, would surely annihilate any artillery which the Russians could place in position to check pursuit or cover the flight of their inftmtry. As to their cavaby, they are, as far as we can ascertain, inferior in number to our own, aiid we are certain that in dash and pluck they can- not match the men who charged at Balaklava. In fine, there is reason to hope that if the enemy should strike a great blov>r he will meet with a great disaster, and that we may by one well- fought field terminate the daily conflict which leads to such terrible loss of life, and win a victory rich for once with grand results, and yielding fruits worthy of our daring, our judgment, and our military genius. The attack was expected this morning ; it may take place to- morrow ; should it be deferred for a few days more, the Russians may have to fight with all their masses for the possession of the Malakhoif, for the French are assuredly determined not to delay the assault much longer, if it were only to put an end to the losses to which they are hourly exposed. General Pclissier said the other day, " I lose a fine brigade every ten days." It is no compensation that the enemy loses three to our one. The Russians swarm like flies, and their Generals are only puzzled bow to use them, or they could have twice as many. So strong are the expectations of an attack that all officers are ordered to stay in their respective camps. Last night orders were sent round to each division that all the troops should be in readiness to turn out at once at a moment's notice. On the rear, the French, Sardinians, and Turks were under arms long before daybreak, and only turned in when assured by careful examination in broad daylight tliat the enemy were not approaching. The Russians have concentrated considerable masses in and about Upu, Ozembasch, and Chuliou, and Prince Gortschakofl" in person lately visited the army destined to operate against the Turks, French, and Sardinians on the rear, and was 120 THE LULL BEFORE THE STORM. prodigal of promises and encouragement. The intelligence received by tlic English, French, and Turkish Generals coincides on these points, and is believed to be entirely trustworthj'. Nothing but despair could iaduce the Russians to attempt such an enterprise. As to a sortie, although it may be made with lai'ge bodies of men, it has no better chance of success, for our reserves will be kept in reudiness to act at once, and the force in the trenches will be henceforth greatly augmented. It is rather strange that we have never constructed any batteries to sweep the Woronzotr road, on the flank of the No. 11 Battery in our left attack, as a strong column of Russians passing rapidly along in this direction might cause our batteries on the left attack to be endangered, and expose them to the risk of being turned, unless protected by a strong force of infantry. It has been our practice, until very recently, to send only 1400 men into the trenches of the left attack, of which one-half was of the reserve, and, as the latter were allowed to go back to camp in the daj-, it frequently happened that only 700 men were lelt to guard the whole of our extensive works in Chapman's attack. In future our ibrce will be increased, and the reserves will be main- tained in all their integrit}', so as to be readj' to give efficient support to the trench guard should the enemy make any serious demonstration against our lines. And here I may be permitted to otl'er one word on behalf of such officers and men as have not had an opportunity of sharing the honours conferred on those who have been so fortunate as to be engaged in general actions during this war. I am certain that there is a very general feel- ing in the army that there should be some distinctive decoration for " service in the trenches." Men have been decorated for Alma, Inkermann, and Balaklava who were not in the least danger or even more under fire than if they had remained in their club card-room, but no man goes into the trenches who is not exposed to heavy fire and to continual danger. The Adjutant- General's returns will show that in a forinight we lose nearly as many officers and men as are put hors de combat in a regular battle, although it will be observed that the proportion of officers to men killed and wounded is far smaller than it is on occasions of drawn battle. A man who has served thirty nights in the trenches will have undergone more fire than if he had been in the hottest fight of the campaign. Why not let him have a decoration, were it only a bit of iron with the words " Trenches before Sebastopol" engraved upon it ? The arduous nature or" our trench service is best indicated by our returns, and by the THE ILL-USED DOCTORS. 121 liict that many yomig officers who come out from England are ren- dered unfit or unable to discharge tlieir duties after a few weeks' experience. Altliough there are manj^ complaints of the rawness of the recruits sent out to us, they are as nothing compared to the outcry against the crudity of the lads who are despatched as "officers" to the Crimea, and who perforce must he sent in resjionsible positions into the trenches. A reference to the daily General Orders will satisfy any one of the truthfulness of that outcry. The number of officers who sicken and are ordered home, or to Scutari, or to go on board sliip, is increasing, and it is not fovmd that the recently arrived regiments furnish the smallest number of those worn out by ennui, and reduced from good health to a state of illness by a few days' service. The old officers, of course, grumble loudly and deeply at such a state of things, and the grim veterans who have remained with their regiments since the beginning of the campaign, are indig- nant at having sent out as their comrades puling boys, who, from no fault of their own, are utterly helpless and inefficient, and soon sicken, and leave the duties of the regiment to be performed by their overworked seniors. Why should not vacancies in regiments out here be filled up from regiments stationed elsewhere ? Such a course was pursued in the Chinese war, in our Indian wars, and I believe in the long war, and it secured the services of experienced soldiers. There are many ensigns of four, five, and six years' standing in the latter regi- ments, while it would be difficult to find many lieutenants who have seen so much service in any regiment which has been here since the beginning of the war. With all our experience we still permit the existence of absur- dities and anomalies. About 100 doctors are sick from over- work or of disgust, and yet we have civil hospitals on the Dardanelles, maintained at some expense, in which the medical men have so little to do that they come up to camp to " tout" for patients and practice. The surgeons say that, as it is very evident Government will never give them any honour or reward, except mere service promotion and pay, they will look to the latter alone, and it may be easily imagined in what frame of mind they will serve in cases where they can escape the neces- sity of energetic exertion. With a kind of refined irony two of the medical officers were " invited to attend" at the investiture of the K.C.B.'s the other day, as none of them were eligible as C.B.'s. Two commissariat officers were kindly invited to repre- sent their body. These complaints are the echoes of voices iu 122 THE LULL BEFORE THE STOKJI. the camp, loud cuouyh to be lieavd, and as such I ro;tx)rt then;. The oondiiiou of the army, notwithstanding the existence of a considerable amount of sickness, of some discontent, and of an element of weakness in the youthful recruits, is, on the whole, so far as one can judge, satisfactory. It is not, however, as strong as people at home imagine. With all our reinforcements in fresh regiments and draughts it does not reach the strength Mr. Sidney Herbert and his friends over and over again declared it to be when it was struggling for life in the snow and mud last winter. The Sardinians, now acclimatized, Hushed with triumph, and an.Kious for another opportunity to try their steel, form a fine corps of about 8000 effective bayonets, and the Turks can turn out about 13,000 strong. The French, notwithstand- ing their enormous losses by sickness, their sufferings in the capture of the Mamelon, in the assault of the 18th of June, and, above all, in the trenches, where they have on an average 150 Jiors de combat on " quiet nights," and perhaps twice as manj' when the enemy are busy, could with ease present 55,000 bayonets to the enemy vyithout distressing themselves, or calling on the camp guards, &c., to leave their posts. The allied cavalry is jiist 9000 sabres strong, and our field artillery is overpowering. In a word, while the siege works are advancing steadily, and with very few checiks, the allies can present on any side a front which is quite strong enough to hold its own against whatever numbers the Russians can bring against us. There is no ground for them to attack in large masses, and there is no room to deploy the men if they had them, and they have already discovered that in attacking by masses of columns successively svirging against us their slaughter is increased and the con- fusion of their repulse very much aggravated. From the French sap in front of the Mamelon one can now lay his hand on the abattis of the Malakhitjf ! It is a hazardous experi- ment sometimes. Major Graham lost his arm in trying it en amateur the other day, for he was hit as he was returning up the trench ; indeed, it is a subject of remark that amateurs and officers who have just come into the trenches are more frequently hit than is consistent with the rules of proportion. Mr. Gam- bier, a midshipman of the " Curaijoa," went as an amateur into the advanced parallel of the left attack, and took a shot at a Russian rifleman ; he was rewarded by a volley from several of the enemy, and in another instant was going up on a stretcher, with a ball tlirough both his thighs. It is a very common AXOTIIEIl SOKTIE. 123 thing to hear it said, " Poor Smith is killed ; just imagine — his first night in tho trenches." '• Jones lost a leg last niglit ; only joined us this week, and his second night on duty," &c. The Russians, of course, must suffer in the same way, hut I douht if they have many amateurs. They have quite enough of legiti- mate lighting, and their losses are said to be prodigious ; almost beyond belief. They must soon attack or give up the south side. The Bedan looks greatly cut up ; it has no longer the nice cabinetmaker's work on its tiice which it boasted forinerly. The diary of events is not important. The " Himalaya," with 150 of the 10th Hussars and a troop of the Chasseurs d'Afrique, is to be sent to Yenikale, which is, according to report, menaced by a large force of the enemy. It is more probable that these reinforcements have been sent to scour the country for fodder and food, and to protect the out- lying flocks and herds in the plain between Kertch and Yenikale against the attacks of the Cossacks. There has been nothing of importance throughout the day. The fire has been pretty sharp at times, but it has not been attended with any marked advantage on our side, nor have the enemy inflicted any serious loss upon us. 10 P.M. There has just been a severe aifair in front. At a quarter past 9 P.M., a heavy fire of musketry to the left of the Malakhoft' showed that the enemxy w^ere attacking the French works in front of the Mamelon. The night was dark, but clear, and for half an hour the whole of our lines were a blaze of quick, inter- mittent light. The musketry rattled in(;essantly. Chapman and Gordon's batteries opened with all their voices, and the liedan, MalakhofF, Garden, and Barrack Batteries replied with roars of ordnance. After twenty minutes of this infernal con- flict the musketry fire flickered and died out, and then com- menced for a quarter of an hour a general whirling of shells from both sides, so that the light of the very stars was eclipsed, and their dominion usurped by the wandering flight of these iron orbs. Twenty or thirty of these curves of fire tearing the air asunder and uttering their shrill "tuwhit! tu whit! tu whit!" as they described their angry flight in the sky, could be counted and heard at once. While it lasted it was one of the hottest aliairs we have yet experienced. The Russians in this sortie attacked our advanced sap on the right once more, and were repulsed with great loss; but Captain Pechell. of the 77th, a brave and beloved yomig oflicer, in setting a brilliant example 124: THE LULL BEFOKE THE STORM. to Lis men, was Icilled. The Lijallant 77th behaved extremely well, and the y7th wore engag-ed under the Ibllowing circumstances, as stated by one of the otHcers. A party under Captain llatton were posted in the advanced trench of the h'ft of the right attack. The Russians, at midnight, attacked our working party at a new sap, and drove it in. Lieutenant Brinkley and Lieutenant Preston, with 100 of the t)7th, were ordered to proceed to the right of the new sap, to act as a covering party ; and on arriving at the trench they found it so crowded with men of the 23rd that it was impossible to keep the party of the 97th together, so they were obliged to find room as well as they could. This crowded state of the trench is said to have arisen from the party of the 23rd not having recommenced working •when the firing ceased, and remaining in the trench with the covering party of the 77th. At 12 30 Lientenant-Colonel Legh, 97th, was ordered to take his men to Colonel Bunbury, 23rd, who was in the open space in advance of tlie new sap. He collected about forty-five rank and file, and telling Lieutenant Preston to advance with the rest, proceeded to the head of the sap, which was knocked to pieces, either by the Russians when they had entered it, or by a battery on the flank of the Malakhofi'. Here Lieutenant Preston was slightly hit, and one man killed. About fifteen yards in front of the sap Colonel Bunbury and a party of the 77th, under Captain Pechell, were stationed ; and that party having been relieved by the party of the 97th, Colonel Legh dispersed his men in cover as well as possible, sending out two parties of six each under Sergeants Coleman and O'Grady in advance. The Russians pushed on and commenced firing sharply from some rifle-pits and large stores in front. All of a sudden they gave a loud cheer, and the men of the 97th at once stood up, expecting a rush. When the Russians saw the effect of their ruse they fired a volley, which killed and wounded several men. Lieutenant Preston, who had stepped in front of Colonel Legh, was mortally wounded, and carried to the rear by Sergeant Coleman ; but Sergeant O'Grady fell dead just as he had demanded permission to take the enemy's rifle-pits. Lieutenant Ware and Lieutenant Whitehead were sent down bj' Captain Hutton to assist their comrades, when the Russians again fired and wounded Lieutenant Ware ; but Lieutenant Whitehead succeeded in bringing in all the wounded, except Corporal Macks, who was lying close to the rifle-pits with two legs broken. Lieutenant Brinkley came up in support. The Russians i-enewed their firing, but without A DARIN'G FEAT. 125 result; and tliey retired from the pits before dawn, having put, in this little allair, three officers and twenty-four men hors do combat. The Russians tore down some gabions, and were only driven out after a desperate struggle, in which and during their retreat they lost at least 600 men. The French loss was up- wards of 300 men hors de combat; and they also lost some ot their gabions. Our shell practice was beyond all praise, and the Redan suffered severely in the contest, and could not cover the retreat of tlie enemy. Two deserters — daring fellows in their fear— actually swam out last night to one of the French ships on guard off Sebastopol and gave information of great importance. They declare that most of the heavy guns have been transferred irom Fort Con- stantine and Fort Nicholas to the defensive works, and that the powder is removed from the works of the harbour and placed in Fort Nicholas. The number of men who stiu'ted on this perilous expedition was five, and as only two arrived safel3% the rest are supposed to have perished. They supported themselves during their long swim by means of bladders. The Sardinians have begun the earthworks for the railway from the Woronzolf- road to Kadikoi. Tuesday, 1 a.m. There is really nothing to add to the foregoing even by way of postscript. Our expectations of attack were again disap- pointed. The subjoined extract from a divisional order will be read with interest : — " The following exti'act of a letter from Lady Georgina Cathcai't is published for the information of the officers and privates of the Fourth Division : — " ' I beg you will yourself accept and convey to the officers and men of the Fourth Division the thanks of all the I'amily, as well as my own, for this touching memorial of their aiiection and esteem for their late Commander, Sir George Cathcart, which is indeed most gratiiying to us. I think the whole design hand- some. The manner in which it has been executed, of solid and durable granite, in the midst of many difficulties and dangers, as well as privations, reflects great credit on all those engaged in it, and for which we feel most grateful.' " The Division are very much pleased with this expression of Lady Cathcart's sentiments. They still remember with afi'ection their late gallant chief. 12G THE FIKAL E03rBAr.DME^"T. CHAPTER XV. THE FINAL BOMBAEDifENT. The dawn of the oth of Sfptombcr — View from Cathcart's TTill — The com- ni('ncc'iin.'nt of tlie fiiiiil lior.ibrtrdnii'iU — Its fearful elVcet.- — Activity of the French — They open fire ^vitho^lt us — Illness of General Jones — A pause ill the terrible drama — Kcncwal of the bombardment — At night both English and French mortars and heavy guns keep up the fire — A Itn^.sian frigate in the harbour in flames — Splendour of the scene — Kenewal of the bombardment on the second day Deaths of Cai)tains Shone and Buckley — The bombardment continued on the third day — The assault determined upon — A Kussian two decker on fire — Explo- sion in Sebastopol — Preparations for the grand struggle. "Wednesday, Sqitemher 5. At dawn on the morning of the 5th of September the allied batteries opened fire for the sixth time on Sebastopol. The air was pure and light, and a gentle breeze from the south- east, Avhich continued all day, drifted over the steppe, and blew gently into Sebastopol. The sun shone serenely tlirough the vapours of early morning and wreaths of snowy clouds, on the long lines of white houses inside those rugged defences of earth and gabionnado which have so long kept our armies gazing in vain on this " august city." The ships floated quietly on the waters of the roads, which were smooth as a mirror, and reflected the forms of these "monarchs of the main," while outside our own fleet and that of the French, equally inactive, and not quite so useful to us, were reposing between Kasatch and Constantino as idly as though they were " painted ships upon a painted ocean." From Cathcart's-hill the view takes in a portion of the defences of the (Quarantine — the French approaches to it and to the Flagstaff' ijalteries up to the junction of their parallels with our left attack, which takes place in the ravine at the end of the Dockyard-creek. The spectator can see at a glance the Flagstntf Batteries' works — the suburb of ruined houses, or rather the sites of cot- tages and residences, which are all that is now left of long streets destroyed by the fire of our allies. This mass of ruins is enclosed between the Flagstaff' and the crenellated sea wall, and beyond this, at a coit2^ cVml, may be seen the civil town behind, still presenting a stately appearance as it rises on the hillside tier over tier, displaying churches, stately mansions. APPEARANCE OF SEEASTOPOL. 127 and public buildings of fine white or rod sandstone, v.Ith gardens interspersed and trees growing in the walks. Tluse iine structures are not exempt from " low neighbourhoods" of whitewashed houses, belonging to the garrison or to the poorer inhabitants. The hill on which this part of the city stands rises from the rear of the Flagstaff Battery to the height of 200 feet or more, it presents a steep face to the creek from the ])oclc- yard, and then sweeps round towards the roadstead, to the level of which it abruptly descends at the rear of the southern forts. The houses which are built upon this face of the liiil are not visible, but those situate on the eastern fiice, or on the descent to Dock- yard-creek, are discernible to the naked eye. There is a poor suburb at the base, and thence the houses rise In terraces, with flights of steps and curving roads up to the brow of the hill. The bombardment is beginning to tell upon these buildings. A church, decorated with many small pinnacles at the angles of the roof, has been struck by a shell, which destroyed the roof. Some of the best mansions are split open, or with their craclced walls admit the light of the day ; others are perforated with shot-holes, through which the light is visible — windows, doors, pillars, and columns are broken or destroyed. In the rubbish of the subvirb, next to the Flagstalf v/orks, there are several batteries in excellent order, which are not injm-ed by the allied batteries, and which have not yet fired much, if at all. They ai"e mostly Jfechcs. and seem intended as out-lying works of the second line of defences. Near the top of the hill, inside the crenellated wall, a portion of the interior line of these defences is to be seen. A battery, called the " Crow's Kest," from its elevated position, is placed near this line, and commands to a cei'tain extent the right of the French lei't attack, and our sailors' batteries in the left of our left attack, and to all of these it is rather troublesome. It contains a couple of large mortars in addition to some long-range guns, and can bear on any troops between the outer defences and the foot of the hill on which the town rises, and the ravine between our left and the Frtmch left attack. A series of very strong earthworks crowns the ridge of the same hill, and the defences broken by the creek are con- tinued towards the right by the various batteries (Bairack, Road, Garden, lilack, &c.), which are connected with the Great Eedan, and thence are carried to the Malakholf and its outlying works. The suburb behind these defences next the creek, and in front of our left attack, is in complete ruins, but our line of 128 THE FIXAL BOMBARDMENT. batteries is almost too far to do injury to the public buildings behind the suburb. Our old first parallel has indeed been dis* armed on account of the distance, and the guns have been moved from it into the second parallel, and various batteries in front of it. The line of the first parallel and the hill on which it is placed conceal from the spectator atCatlicart's-hill the cemetery wliich we have occupied since the ISth of June, and which is improperly marked as " The Ovens" in one of the best maps of the place. They also hide the course of the Woronzofi'-road and the ravine in iront under the proper right of the Redan. That portion of the ravine between our right and lelt attack, which is not closed up by the sweep of the hills on wliich the attacking bat- teries are placed, or by the ragged height seamed with rifle-pits, craters of bombs, zigzags, and the works of our Quarries Battery, is still visible. Behind the Redan may be observed the long line of the dockyard and arsenal buildings, and the barracks, which have been rendered uninhabitable on the near side by our fire — the gi-eat shears, the floating bridge across the roads to the north side, the two lines of men-of-war — the " Twelve Apostles" and five two-deckers, frigates, and steamers. Then, on our right of the Redan lie the Malakhoff, Mamelon, and the White Works, and Mount Sapouue peering over them, and thou the north side — the citadel, the Russian camp, Inkermann, its batteries, and the plateau of tlie Belbek forming the background, which is defined still further by a strip of blue sea. From Cathcart's-hill, therefore, on the right front of the Fourth Division camp, one can gain an admirable view of certain l^oints of the position from the sea on the left to our extreme right at Inkermann. That advantage is, however, rarely obtain- able when there is any heavy firing, as the smoke generally hangs in thick clouds between the earthworks, not to be easily dispelled, excepting by the aid of a brisk wind. If one of the few persons who were in the secret of the opening of the French batteries had been on Cathcart's-hill on the morning of the 5th he would have beheld then, just before half-past five o'clock, the whole of this scene marked out in keen detail in the clear morning air. The men in our trenches can be seen sitting down behind the traverses, or strolling about in the rear of the parapets. Small trains of animals and files of men may be con- tinually observed passing over the ground between the trenches and tlie camp, and the only smoke that catches the eye rises from the kettles of the soldiery, or from the di.«charge of a riilc THE FRENCH OPEN FIRE, 129 in the advanced works. On the left, however, it is seen that the French trenches are crowded witjj men, and that their batteries ai'e all manned, though the occupants keep well out of sight of the enemy, and the mantlets and screens are yet down before the muzzles of some of their guns. The men beneath the parapets swarm like bees. A few grey-coated Russians may be noticed repairing the Avorks of the Flagstaff Battery, or engaged in throwing up a new work, which pro- mises to be of considerable strength, in front of the second line of their defences. Suddenly, close to the Ba.stion du Mat, along the earthen curtain between Nos. 7 and 8 Bastions three jets of flame spring up into the air and hurl up as many pillars of earth and dust, a hundred feet high, which are warmed into ruddy hues by the horizontal rays of the sun. The French have exploded three fougasses to blow in the counter- scarp, and to serve as a signal to their men. In a moment, from the sea to the Dockyard-creek, a stream of fii-e three miles in length seems to run like a train from battery to battery, and fleecy, curling, rich white smoke ascends, as though the earth had suddenly been rent in the throes of an earthquake, and was vomiting forth the material of her volcanoes. The lines of the French trenches were at once covered as though the very clouds of Heaven had settled down upon them and were whirled about in spiral jets, in festoons, in clustering bunches, in columns and in sheets, all commingled, involved together, and uniting as it were by the vehement flames beneath. The crash of such a tremendous fire must have been appalling, but the wind and the peculiar condition of the atmosphere did not permit the soimd to produce anj- great effect on our camp ; in the city for the same reason the noise must have been terrific and horrible. The iron stomi tore over the Eussian Unes, tossing up, as if in sport, jets of earth and dust, rending asunder gabions, and " squelching" the parapets, or dashing in amongst the houses and ruins in their rear. The terrible files of this fl3'ing army extending about four miles in front, rushed across the plain, carry- ingdeathand terror in their train, sv\'ept with heavyand irresistible wings the Russian flanks, and searched their centre to the core. A volley so startling, simultaneous, and tremendously powerful Wits probably never yet discharged since cannon were intro- duced. The Russians seemed for a while utterly paralysed. Their batteries were not manned with strength enough to enable them to reply to such an overlapping and crushing fire ; VOL. II. K 130 TUE FINAL BOMBAUDMENT. but tlie French, leaping to their o-uns with astounding energy, rapiditj^ and vigour, ^ept on filling the very air with the hurtling storm, and sent it in unbrolven fiuy against their enemies. More than 200 pieces of artilleiy of large calibre, admirably served and well directed, played incessaiitlj- upon the hostile lines. In a few moments a great veil of smoke — " a war-cloud rolling dun" — spread from the guns on the left of Sebastopol ; but the roar of the shot did not cease, and the cannonade now pealed forth in great irregular bursts, now died away into hoarse mm-murs, again swelled up into tumult, or rattled from one extremity to the other of the line like the file-fire of infantry. Stone walls went down before the discharge at once, but the earthworks yawned to receive sliot and shell alike. However, so swift and incessant was the passage of these missiles through the embrasures and along the tops of the parapets that the enemy had to lie close, and sc.ircely dare show themselves in the front line of their defences. For a few minutes the French had it ail their own way, and appeared to be on the point of sweeping away the place without resistance. This did not last long, as after they had fired a few rounds from each of their numerous guns, the Russian artilleiymen got to •work, and began to return the fii'e. They made good practice, but fired slowly and with precision, as if they could not afford to throw away an ounce of powder. The French were stimulated rather than restrained by such a reply to their astonishing volleys, and sent their shot with greater rapiditj' along the line of the defences, and among the houses of the town. But what were ■we doing all this time ? What was our admirable Naval Brigade and our gallant siege train doing ? They were just working their guns at a quiet rate, but they maintained their usual de- structive and solid " hammering" away at the i'aces of the IJcdan and of the MalakholF, and aided our invaluable allies by keeping up a regular shell practice on the batteries from the Creek to the Eedan. Inow two or tliree mortars from (lordon's, then two or three mortars from Chapman's, hurled 10 and 13-inch shell behind the enemy's \vorks, and coraiected the dischnrges by rounds from long 32's or 68's. It is not known Avhy this evi- dent want of unanimity existed, and why Ave did not open fire with the same vigour and rapidity as the French. General Pelissier was at our head-quarters 3'^esterday,and had an interview with General Simpson, and it is not unlikely that the French Cora- inauderj finding that we were not quite prepared to open fu-o with EFFECTS OF THE FIRE. 131 effect, with his characteristic impetuosity, resolved on dams; so himself, and to rely upon his own numerous and heavy ordnance and abundance of ammunition. I am by no means prepared to say that we wci"e not ready to open on the day ag-reed upon, nor do I insinuate that thei'e was the smallest want of unanimity between the Generals, but it is a fact that we had not the guns and ammvmition required for opening a three days' fire of intensity, and that if we had plenty of a certain sort of materiel and missiles, the requisite quantity of those of a different, hut useful description, was wanting. Our allies must appreciate tlie readiness with which we have on several occasions lent them guns, shot, and shell, and are too generous, while remembering such services, to fmd fault with us for not having accumulated such masses of stores as they had collected. After all, it may turn out that for military reasons the Generals resolved to let the French open first, and that their inaugural cannonade was a matter of arrangement. Although there are some complaints of deficiency in the engineering depai-tment, I have never heard it said that our artillery, so long as the supplies of powder, shot, and guns lasted, were not ready to meet any enemy. It un- fortunately happens at this juncture that General Jones, who has always displayed great energy in directing the siege works, is unwell. In fact, he cannot go out, on accomit of a severe at- tack of rheumatism, which almost cripples him. But all this has nothing to do with the siege, and in the mean time our allies are pounding away with exceeding warmth at everything within range of their guns. Our Quarry Battery, armed with two mortars and eight cohorns, just 400 yaids below the Redan, plies the suburb in the rear of the Malakhoff vigorousl}'^ Vv'ith bombs, and keeps the top of the Redan clear v^ith round shot and grape. Redan and Malakhoff are alike silent, ragged, and torn. At most the Redan fires three guns, and the adjoining batteries are equally parsimonious- The parapets ai-e all pitted with shot and shell, and the sides of the embrasures greatly injured, so that the gabions are sticking out, and dislodged in all directions. There is no more of that fine polishing and of that cabinet-maker's work which the Russians bestowed on their batteries ; our constant fire by night, the efforts of our riflemen, and incessant shell- ing have rather checked their assiduous anxiety as to external appearance. After two hours and a-half of furious firing, the artillerymen of our allies suddenly ceased, in order to let their k2 132 THE FINAL BOMBARDMENT. guns cool and to rest themselves. The Eussians crept out to repair damages to their works, and shook sandbags full of earth from the banquette over the outside of their parapets. Their gunners also took advantage of this sudden cessation to oi)cn on our sailors' batteries in the left attack, and caused us some little annoyance from the " Crow's-nest." At ten o'clock, however, having previously ex^Dloded some fougasses, as before, the French re-opened a fire if possible more rapid and tre- mendous than their first, and continued to keep it up with the utmost vigour till twelve o'clock at noon, by which time the Russians had only a few guns in the Flagstaff-road and Garden Batteries in a position to reply. We could see them in great agitation sendmg men and carts to and fro across the bridge, and at nine o'clock a powerful column of infantry crossed over to resist our assault, while a move- ment towards Inkermann was made by the army of the Belbek. Soon after our fire began, as early as six o'clock, the working parties which go over to the north side every morning were evidently recalled, and marched back again across the bridge to the south, no doubt to be in readiness for our exjiected assault. From twelve to five o'clock p.m. the firing was slack ; the French then resumed their cannonade with the same astound- ing vigour as at dawn and at ten o'clock, and never ceased their volleys of shot and shell against the place till half-past seven, Avhen darkness set in, whereupon all the mortars and heavy guns, English as well as French, opened with shell against the whole line of defences. A description of this scene is im- possible. There was not one instant in which the shells did not whistle through the air ; not a moment in which the sky was not seamed by their fiery curves or illuminated by their ex- plosion. Our practice was beyond all praise. Every shell burst as it ought, and the lines of the llussian earthworks of the Kedan, Malakhoff, and of all their batteries were rendered plainly visible by the constant light of the innumerable explosions. The Russians scarcely attempted a replj'. At five o'clock it was observed that a frigate in the second line, near the north side, Avas smoking, and, as it grew darkci', flames were seen to issue from her sides. Men and officers rushed to the front, in the greatest delight and excitement, and as night came on, the whole vessel was enveloped in one grand blaze from stem to stern. The delight of the crowd on Cathcart's hill was intense. " Well, this is iiulced a sight ! to see one of those confounded RUSSIAN FRIGATE IN FLAMES. 133 slups touclieJ at last!" These, and many diflereut and stronger expressions, were audible on all sides, but there were some wise people who thought the liussians had set the ship on fire, or that incendiaries and malcontents were at work, and one gentleman even went so far as to say that he "' thought it was merely a signal — may be to recall their cavalry from Eupatoria !" It is not Icnown precisely how the thing was done. Some say It Avas done by the French ; others, by ourselves ; and bombs, red-hot shot, and rockets, have been variously named as the means by which the vessel was set on fu'e. In spite of the efforts of the Russians, the flames spread, and soon issued from the ports and quarter-gallery. At eight o'clock the light was so great that the houses of the city and the ibiis on the other side could bo distinguished without difficulty. The masts stood long, towering aloft like great pillars of fii'e ; but one after the other they came down ; the decks fell in about ten o'clock, and at midnight the frigate had burnt to the water's edge. The armament of our batteries on the occasion of opening this bombardment consisted of thirty-four 13-inch mortars, twenty-seven 10-inch ditto, ten 8-inch ditto, twenty 5|-inch cohorns — total, ninety-one mortars. On the I7tli of October we had but ten mortars, and they were 10- inch. We had also two Lancasters ; no 24-pounders. — (On I7tli of October one-half of our guns nearly were 2-1-pounders). Sixty-one 32-pounders as compared with seven on 17th October, thirty-seven 8-Inch guns as compared with sixteen, seven 10-inch guns as compared with nine, six 68-pounders, and three 9-pounders for the heads of the saps. We threw 12,721 bombs into the town as compared with 27 13 in the first bombardment ; and we fired 89,540 shot against the place as compared with 19,879 on the same date. In the left attack our batteries had been advanced 2500 feet towards the front of the old line of fire, but it was Impossible to make any further advance by sap for the purpose of assault, as the ver3'- steep ravine by which the Woronzoff' road sweeps into the town ran below the plateau on which the attack was placed, and separated it from the Redan. The old parallel of the attack, wherein our batteries Nos. 3, 4, and 5 Avere placed at the ridiculous distance of 4000 feet from the Redan, and our batteries Nos. 9 and 12 at the same distance from the Flagstaff Bastion works, was now a mere base from which the advanced works had proceeded. The second parallel was 15,000 feet in front of it, and In that parallel were batteries Nos. 10 and 14, 134 THE FINAL BOMBAUDMENT. still 2500 feet from the parapet of the Eedan. The third parallel was about 700 feet in front of the second ; and as it was found that we could not hope to advance much beyond that position, owing to the nature of the ground, our batteries were placed more towards the proper left face of the Flagstaff Battery, and towards the Garden Battery in rear of it. In this parallel, batteries Nos. 7, 8, 13, 14, and 15 were opened. Our fourth parallel, which was unarmed, was about 600 feet in advance of the third, and was filled witli infantry and riflemen, who kept up a constant fire in the place, more particularly at night. The ravine in which the Woronzoff road is made runs between our left and right attack, and separates them completely. The right attack, which is by far the most important, was originally commenced at the distance of 4500 feet from the IJedan, and of more than 5000 feet from the Malakhoff. It contained batteries Nos. 1, 3, 3, 4, 5 ; at its right was the old Lancaster battery detached on No. 11 ; and in an advanced parallel on the left flank of No. 12 was battery No. 10. In the approach from the 1st to the 20th parallel was battery No. 7. The second parallel is more than 1000 feet in front of the first parallel ; and it contained batteries Nos. 9, 14, 12, 6, and 15. The battery No. 8 was in the third parallel, which was a few hundred feet in advance of the second. The fourth parallel, whicli com- municates with the Quarries, is about 1200 leet in advance of the third parallel. In the Quarries are the batteries Nos. 16 and 17. Tlie fifth parallel, from which the assault is to take place, is about 300 feet in front of the Quarries ; and there is a feeble attempt at a sixth parallel a few yards in advance, which was in such bad ground that it was of little use and could not be continued. Thursday, September 6. Last night a steady fire was kept up all along the front, with the view of preventing the Russians from repairing damages. At ten p.m., orders were sent to our batteries to open the following morning, as soon there was a good light, but they were limited to fifty rounds each gun. At 5.30 a.m. the whole of tiie batteries from Quarantine to Inkermann began their Are with a grand crash. There were three breaks or lulls in the tempest ; one from half-past eight till ten ; another from twelve till five ; and the third from half-past six till seven — during these intervals the fire was comparatively slack. The agitation in the town was considerable throughout the THE FOE PEUVLEXED. 135 day ; and the enemy seemed to be greatly distressed. They are strengthening their position on the north side — throwing up batteries, dragging guns into position, and preparing to defend themselves should they be obliged to leave the city. They evince a disposition to rely on the north side, and are removing their stores by the large bridge of* pontoons, and by the second and smaller bridge of boats to the Karabalnaia. Notwithstanding the large number of men in the town, the enemy still show inconsiderable strength from Inkermann to Mackenzie ; and General Pelissier and General Simpson have received intelligence which leads them to believe that the enemy meditates another attack, as the line of the Tchernaya is the only means of avert- ing the fall of the place. Gur losses have been heavy, and the enemy do not cease throwing up long-range shot to disturb the camp, some of which do mischief. Gn the 3rd, Captain Pechell, 77th, and eight rank and tile were killed, Lieutenant Chatficld, 49th, and fifty-one rank and file were wounded. On the 4th, Captain Anderson, 31st Uegiment, Assistant Engineer, and six rank and file were killed, and fifty-five non-commissioned officers and rank and file wounded. Gn the 5th, Captain Verschoyle, Grenadier Guards, and Lieutenant Phillips, 56th Regiment, were slightly wounded; thirteen non-commissioned officers and rank and fide were killed; and thirty-seven non-commissioned officers and men were wounded. Gn the 6th, Captain E. G. Snow, K.A., a brave and much esteemed officer, was killed in the batteries bj' a round shot, fourteen men were killed, and forty- six were wounded. The Naval Brigade lost one man killed, and had nine men wounded. Friday, September 7. The bombardment v/as renewed last night at sunset, and con- tinued without intermission till an hour before daybreak, and the musketry fire was most tremendous and unremitting, for the orders to the trench guards were to keep up a perpetual fusil- lade on the face of the Russian works, and about 150,000 rounds have been expended each night since the opening of the bom- bardment. This morning at daybreak, the cannonade was re- opened and continvxed as before — the Russians made no reply on the centre, but their Inkermann batteries across the harbour fired briskl)' on the French right attack, and distressed our allies considerably. A strong wind from the north blew clouds of dust from the town, and carried back the smoke of the bat- teries, so that it was very difficult to ascertain the effiect of the 13G THE FINAL BOMBARDMENT. foe, but now and then the veil opened, and at each interval the amount of destruction disclosed was more evident and appalling. At midday, a council of generals was held at om* Head-Quarters, at which General Pelissier and General de la Marmora attended, and it is known that our engineers have been in consultation with the French, so that the assault is speedily expected. After the council broke up, orders were sent to the surgeons to clear out the hospitals of patients, and prepare for the reception of wounded ; and it gradually oozed out that the assault will take place to-morrow. The Guards will occupy the right trenches to-night, and will be relieved by the Highlanders in the morn- ing — the attack will be made by the Light and Second Division. At 3"30, a two-decker was set on fire, and continued to bum all night with such brightness and ardour that it is supposed she contained stores. The glare of the foe through the clouds of dust and smoke presented a very remarkable and ominous appearance. As soon as this fire broke out, a Russian steamer began to tow all the vessels near her to the dockyard harbour, and to the north side, but the men-of-war and steam-frigates are still moored in lines, with their broadsides bearing on the rear of the defences. A bright Hame broke out in the rear of the Redan in the afternoon, and another fire was visible in the town over the Woronzoff road at a later period of the evening. At 11 p.m., a tremendous explosion took place in the town, but it could not be ascertained exactly where or how it occui'red. At dusk, the cannonade ceased, and the bombardment recom- menced — the thunder of the bombs bursting from the sea-shore to the Tchernaya sounded like the roll of giant musketry — the Russians replied feebly, threw bouquets into the French trenches, and showers of vertical gi-ape into ours, and lighted up the works now and then with fire-balls and carcasses. I much regi-et to state, that Captain John Buckley, Scots Fusilier Guards, was killed in the evening as he was posting his sentries in the ravine between the Malakhoff and the Redan in front of our advanced trench of the right attack. It has been a disastrous spot for us. Major M'Gowan, 93rd Regiment, was carried olT here, and Captain Drummond was killed soon afterwards. Captain Buckley, who has now fallen in the discharge of his duty, was a young officer of zeal and promise. He was devoted to his profession, and although ho was wounded so severely at the Alma that he could have had every excuse and right to go home, he refused to do so, and as soon as he came out of hos- pital, on board a man-of-war, in wliich he was present when THE TROOPS UXDEIi ARMS. 137 the attack of the 17th October was made, he returned to his regiment and shared its privations during the winter of '54-5. In the tiro to-day and this night, wo lost one ofHcer, eleven rank and tile killed, and forty-eight rank and file wounded. In addition to the burning ship and the fires in the town, a bright light was observed at the head of the great shears of the Dockyai'd about four o'clock in the afternoon, and it con- tinued to burn fiercely throughout the night. It was probably intended to light up the Dockyard below, or to serve as a signal, but it was for some time imagined that the shears had been set on fire by a shell. A strong corps of Sardinians marched from Fedoinkire and Komara this afternoon, and crossed over to the French left attack, on the line from the Quarantine to the Bas- tion Centrale. The night was passed in a fever of expectation and anxiety amid the roar of the bombardment, while the wind blew in deafening bursts back on the allied camp. Saturday, Septemhcr 8, 11 a.m. All comers from Balaklava and the rear of the camp are stopped by a line of sentries posted fi'om Inkermann to the sea. Another cordon of cavalry in front prevents any communica- tion with Cathcart's Hill or the Picket Houses in advance of the camp. Staff-officers, and those furnished with passes, can alone get through the line. The excitement is very great. The fire, which recommenced as usual at dawn, is of the most tremendous character, and has been sustained with appalling force and vigour. The Fourth Division is now under arms, and the Third Divi- sion is assembling in front of its camp. The assault will take place at noon. Many officers arc already at Cathcart's Hill, and my pass will enable me to join them, and to pass the cordon as f;ir as I please. The French on our right had five parallels from the jtfamelon up to the ]\Ialakhoff, from the counterscarp of which they were about twenty metres distant. They were about one hundred yards from the No. 2 Bastion in the Little Redan on their ex- treme right, and on our left their etonnoirs were within six or seven yards of the ditch of the outer works of the Bastion du Mat (Flagstaff Battery), and their advanced trench, opposite the right of the Central Bastion, was not more than eighty yards from the counterscarp. The ground between our fifth parallel and the salient of the Eedan is tolerably flat, but it is torn up by the craters of shells, and the enemy could at all times depress their guns to cover it. By their heavy fire they caused oui* 138 CAPTURE OF THE MALAKHOFF. working parties severe losses just before the final bombardment. From the 3rd to the 6th, we had 3 ofHcers, 3 sergeants, and. 40 rank and file killed ; 3 officers, 9 sergeants, and 180 rank and file wounded. Captain Pechell, 77th, fell on the 3rd September ; Captain Anderson, Acting Engineer, was killed on the 4th ; and Captain Snow, II.A., was killed on the 6th. On the 3rd, Lieutenant Chatfield, 49th ; on the 5th, Captain Verschoyle, Grenadier Guards, and Lieutenant Phillips, 56th Eegiment, were wounded, all slightly. Our trench guards kept up a tremendous fire on the place, and in the two attacks about 150,000 rounds of ammunition were expended between each relief. On the 7th September, we had 1 officer, 11 rank and file killed, and 48 rank and file wounded. The officer was Captain Buckley, Scotch Fusilier Guards, who was shot while posting his sentries in front of the Eedan. CHAPTER XVI. CAPTURE OF THE MALAKHOFF AND ATTACK oy THE EEDAN. Reflections on the long-expected triumpli — Eecapitulation — Day of the assault — Disposition of the forces — Amateurs — Tartars, Turks, and Eupatorians evince great anxiety to obtain a good view of the assault — The French attack the Malakhofl^ — The Russians taken by surprise oflTer little resistance to the first attack — Desperate struggle of seven hours' duration — Signal given for tlie English assault upon the Redan — Impeifect arrangements — Gallant conduct of Colonel Unett — Fury of the assault — Casualties — Bravery of Captain Fyers — Previous career of that officer — Advance of the storming party — Blunders — Conflicting statements — Sudden panic — Colonel AVindham's gal- lantry — Impression among the men that the Redan was mined — Elibrts of the officers to encourage their troops — Indomitable per- severance of Colonel AVindham — Urgent appeal for reinforcements — Devotion of the officers — Gallantry of the men — Wonderful escape of Colonel AVindliam — Tlie Russians bring up a field-piece — Colonel WindlKim goes for reinforcements — The Russians having assembled in great strength, charge with tlic bayonet — Fearful struggle — Retreat of the Engli.-h — I'errible slaughter on both sides — Success of the French in the MalakhofT — Causes of our failure in the attack upon the Redan — Difhculty of obtaining accurate information — Plans for the renewal of the assault — Losses in these operations. Monday, Sepinnhcr 10. The contest on which the eyes of Europe have been turned so long is nearly decided — the event on which the hopes of so many FALL OF THE SOUTH SIDE. 139 mighty empires depended, all but determined. Sel)asto]»ol is in iiames ! The Heet, the object of so umch diplomatic- con- troversy, and of so many bloody struggles, has disappeared in the deep ! One more great act of carnage has been added to the tremendous but glorious tragedy, of which the whole world, from the most civilized nations down to the most bar- barous hordes of the East, has been the anxious and excited audience. Amid shouts of victory and cries of despair — in frantic rejoicing and passionate sorrow — a pall of black smoke, streaked by the fiery flashings of exploding fortresses, descends upon the stage, on which has been depicted so many varied traits of human misery and of human greatness, such high endurance and calm courage, such littleness and weakness — across which have stalked characters which history may here- after develope as largely as the struggle in which they were engaged, and swell to gigantic proportions, or which she may dwarf into pettiest dimensions, as unworthy of the part they played. A dull, strange silence, broken at distant intervals by the crash of citadels and palaces as they are blown into dust, succeeds to the incessant dialogue of the cannon which have spoken so loudly and so angrily throughout an entire year. Tired armies, separated from each other by a sea of fires, rest on their arms, and gaze with varied emotions on all that remains of the object of their conflicts. How trite all these announcements appear ! How disheai-tening it is to the writer to feel that all he is describing is known in England, and has been discussed and canvassed in every homestead ere he can sit down to tell the story, and that by the time his letters reach those for whom they are intended, all that which now appears to him as novel and recent as it is interesting and impoi'tant, wiU be a twice-told tale ! To every one out here the occurrences of the last few da^'s seem momentous, startling, and prodigious. Time will show whether we duly appreciate them. On Satur- day we felt that the great success of our valiant allies was somewhat tarnished by our own failure, and were doubtful whether the Eussians would abandon all hope of retaking the Malakhoft". On Sunday, ere noon, we were walking about the streets of Sebastopol and gazing upon its ruins. The army is now in suspense as to its future. The south side of the city is in the hands of the allies. On the north side the great citadel and numerous regular forts, backed by enormous earthworks, and defended by a large army, bid us defiance across a narrow 140 CAPTUKE OF THE MALAKIIOFF. strip of Avater, and Uussia may boast that she has not j'et lost Sebastopol. The allied iieet remains outside, paralysed by Fort Constantine and its dependencies, and every one is going about asking, '* What are we to do now ?" The last and decisive cannonade was, as the world knows ever so long ago, begun on the morning of Wednesday, September 5, by the French, against the Russian right, consisting of the Quarantine Batteries, the Bastion Centrale, and the Bastion du ]\iat ; it was continued with great vigour and effect, and followed at night by a devastating bombardment, in which all the allied batteries joined ; during the latter a frigate was fired by a French shell and sunk. On the morning of the 6th, the Eng- lish and French together opened the cannonade, beneath which the Russian batteries were almost broken to pieces, and to which they coidd not answer. In the evening the bombard- Bient was renewed and kept up all night ; a fire appeared behind the Redan, and the enemy seemed by their constant signallmg, to be in much uneasiness. It was observed that great quantities of forage were being sent across the bridge from the north to the south side, although there were no cavalry in the latter. On the 7th the cannonade was continued in salvoes, as before, and it was remarked that the town began to present in a most un- mistakeable manner traces of the terrible effects of the nightly bombardment. Nearly every house within range was split or in ruins. The bridge between the north and the south side was much crowded all day with men and carts passing to and fro, and large convoys were seen entering and leaving the town at the north side. Towards evening the head of the great dock- yard shears, so long a prominent object from our batteries, ■caught fire, and burnt fiercely in the high Avind, for it had blown a gale all day. A two-decker was set on fire by the French sliells, and destroyed ; and a steamer was busily employed towing a large dismasted frigate to the dockyard, out of range. In the middle of the day there was a council of Generals, and at two o'clock it became generally known that the allies would assault the place at noon on the 8th, after a vigorous cannonade and bombardment. The hour was well selected, as it had been ascertained that the Russians were accustomed to indulge in a siesta about that time. In the course of the night there was -an explosion behind the Redan. And now comes the memorable THE ASASULT. HI DAY OF THE ASSAULT. Saturday, Septemhcr s. The weather changed suddenly yesterday, and this morning it became bitterly cold. A biting wind right from the north side of Sebastopol blew intolerable clouds of harsh dust into our faces. The sun was obscured ; and the sky became of a leaden wintry grey. Early in the morning a strong force of cavalry, under the command of Colonel Hodge, received orders to move up to the fi'ont and form a chain of sentries in front of Cathcart's- hill, and all along our lines. No person Avas allowed to pass this boundary, excepting staff ofKcers, or those provided with a pass. Another line of sentries in the rear of the camps was intended to stop stragglers and idlers from Balaklava, the object of these arrangements being in all probability to prevent the Russians gathering any intimation of our attack, from the imusual accumulation of people on the look-out hills. If so, it Avould have been better to have kept the cavalry more in the rear, and not to have displayed to the enemy a line of Hussars, Lancers, and Dragoons, along our front. At 11*30 the High- land Brigade, under Brigadier Cameron, marched up from Kamara and took up its position in reserve at the Right Attack, and the Guards, also in reserve, were posted on the same side of the Woronzofl'-road. The first brigade of the Fourth Division served the trenches of the Left Attack the night before, and remained in them. The second brigade of the Fourth Division was in reserve. The Guards, who served the trenches of the Left Attack, and only marched oat that morning, were turned out again after arriving at their camp, and resumed their place with alacrity. The Third Division, massed on the hill-side before their camp, were also in reserve, in readiness to move down by the Left Attack in case their services were required. General Pelissier, during the night, collected about 30,000 men in and about the Mamelon, to form the storming columns for the IMalakhoff and Little Eedan, and to provide the necessary reserves. The French were reinforced by 5000 Sardinians, who marched up from the Tchernaya last night. It was arranged that the French should attack the Malakhoif at noon, and, as soon as their attack began, we were to assault the Redan. Soon afterwards, strong columns of French were, I vuiderstand, to make a diversion on the left and luenace the line of the Bastion du Mat, Ccntrale and Quarantine Bastions ; but I do not 142 CAPTURE OF THE IIALAKHOFF. believe it was intended by General Pelissier to operate serioiisly against tins part of the town, the possession of which, in a military point of view, would be of minor importance to that of the Malakholf. The cavalry sentries were posted at 8'30 a.m. At lO'oO a.m. the Second and the Light Division moved down to the trenches, and were placed in the advanced parallels as quietly and unostentatiously^ as possible. About the same hour, CJcneral Simpson and staff repaired to the second parallel of the Green-hill Battery, where the Engineer-ofBcei's had placed them for the day. Sir Harry Jones, too ill to move hand or foot, nevertheless insisted on being carried down to witness the assault, and was borne to the trenches on a litter, in which he remained till all was over. It was, as I have said, a bitter cold day, and a stranger would have been astonished at the aspect of the British Generals as they viewed the assault. The Commander-in-Chief, General Simpson, sat in the trench, with his nose and eyes just facing the cold and dust, and a great coat drawn up about his head to protect him against both. General Jones wore a red nightcap, and reclined on a litter, muffled up in clothes, and Sir Eichard Airey, the Quartermaster- General, had a white pocket-handlierchief tied over his cap and ears, and fastened under his neck, which detracted somewhat from a martial and belligerent aspect. The Duke of New- castle was stationed at Cathcart's-hill in the early part of the day, and afterwards moved off to the right to the Picket- house look-out over the Woronzoff-road. All the amateurs and travelling gentlemen, who rather abound here just now, Avere in a state of great excitement, and dotted the plain in eccentric attire, which revived olden memories of Cowes, and yachting, and sea-bathing. They were, moreover, engaged in a series of siibtle manoeuvres down in the ravines, to turn the flank of un- wary sentries, in order to get to the front, and their success was most creditable to their enterprise and ingenuity. The Tartars, Turks, and Eupatorians were singularly per- turbed for such placid people, and thronged every knoll which commanded the slightest glimpse of the place. At lOdo (Ge- neral Pelissier and his staff went up to the French Observatory on the right. The French trenches were crowded with men as close as they could pack, and we could, through the breaks in the clouds of dust which were most irritating, see our troops, all ready in their trenches. The cannonade languished pur- posely towards noon ; but the Kussians, catching sight of the THE FRENCH IN THE MALAKHOFF. 143 cavalry and troops in front, began to shell Cathcart's-liill and the heights, and the bombs and long ranges disturbed the equanimity of some of the spectators by bursting with loud "thuds" right over their heads, and sending '"the gunners' pieces" sharply about them. .Aiiter hours of suspense, the moment came at last. A five minutes bel'ore twelve o'clock the French, like a swarm of bees, issued forth from their trenches close to the doomed Malakhoff, scrambled up its face, and were through the embrasures in the twinkling of an eye. They crossed the seven metres of gi'ound which separated them from the enemy at a few bounds — they drifted as lightly and quickly as autumn leaves before the wind, battalion after battalion, into the embra- sures, and in a minute or two after the head of their column issued from the ditch the tricolor was floating over the Kornilofi' Bastion. The musketry was very feeble at first — indeed, our allies took the Russians by surprise, and very few of the latter were in the Malakhoff"; but they soon recovered themselves, and from twelve o'clock till past seven in the evening the French had to meet and repulse the repeated attempts of the enemy to regain the worlc, when, weary of the fearful slaughter of his men, who lay in thousands over the exterior of the works, and, despairing of success, the Muscovite General withdrew his exhausted legions, and pre- pared, with admirable skill, to evacuate the place. Of the French attack on the left I know but little. If intended in earnest, it was not successful, and caused great less to our allies. As soon as the tricolor was obsen'ed waving through the smoke and dust over the parapet of the Malakholf, four rockets were sent up from Chapman's attack one after another as a signal for our assault upon the Redan. They were almost borne back by the violence of the wind, and the silvery jets of sparks they threw out on exploding were scarcely visible against the raw grey sky. I take it for granted that there is no one in England who is not by this time quite well acquainted with the exterior of the Redan, and who does not know its shape and situation. In my next letter I will endeavour to give a notion of what it is like inside ; at present I have no time to describe it, nor the appearance of Sebastopol, now that one can walk through its flaming streets. Now, it will be obsei'ved that, while we attacked the Redan with two divisions only, a portion of each being virtually in reserve, and not engaged in the afl'air at all, the French made 144 ATTACK ON THE MALAKHOFF. their assault on the Malaklioff with four divisions of the second corps d'armee, the first and fovuih divisions forming- the storming columns, and the third and fifth heing the support with reserves of 10,0U0 men. The French had, probably, not less than 30,000 men in the right attack on the 7th of Sep- tember. The divisional orders for the Second Division were very much the same as those for the Light Division. The cover- ing party consisted of 100 men of the 3rd Bufls, under Captain John Lewes, who highlj^ distinguished himself, and 100 men of the Second Battalion of the Ivitle Brigade, I believe under the command of poor Captain Hammond. The scaling-ladder party consisted of 160 of the 3rd Bull's, under Captain Maude, whose gallantry was very conspicuous throughout the affair, in addi- tion to the 160 of the 97th, under the gallant and lamented Welsford. The part of the force of the Second Division con- sisted of 260 of the 3rd Buffs, 300 of the 41st (Welsh), 200 of the 62nd, and a working party of 100 men of the 41st. The rest of Windham's Brigade, consisting of the 47th and 49th, were in reserve, together with Warren's Brigade of the same division, of which the 30th and 55th were called into action, and suffered severely. Brigadier Shirley was on board ship, but as soon as he heard of the assault he resolved to join his brigade, and accordingly came up to camp that very morning. Colonel Unett, of the 19th Eegiment, was the senior officer in Brigadier Shirley's absence, and on him would have devolved the dutj^ of leading the storming column of the Light Division, had the latter not returned. Colonel Unett, ignorant of the Brigadier's intention to leave shipboard, had to decide with Colonel Wind- ham Avho should take precedence in the attack. They tossed, and Colonel Unett won. He had it in his power to say whether he would go first or follow Colonel Windham. He looked at the shilling, turned it over, and said, " My choice is made ; I'll be the first man into the Redan." But fate willed it otherwise, and he was struck down badly wounded ere he had reached the abattis, although he was not leading the column. Scarcely had the men left the fifth parallel when the guns on the fianks of the Hedan opened upon them as they moved up rapidly to the salient, in which there was of course no cannon, as the nature of such a work does not permit of their being placed in that particular position. In a few seconds Brigadier Shirley was temporarily blinded by the dust and by earth knock(>d into his eyes by a shot. He was obliged to retire, and his place was CASE OF CAPTAIN FYERS. 145 taken by Lieutenant-Colonel l]unbnr_y, of the 23r(l lA('ji;iment, who was next in rank to Colonel Unett, already struelc down and carried to the rear. Brigadier Van IStraubenzee received a con- tusion on the face, and was also forced to leave the field. Colonel Handcock fell mortally wounded in the head by a bullet, and never spoke again. Captain Hammond fell dead. Major AVelsford was killed on the spot, as he entered the work through an embrasure. Captain Grove was severely wounded. IVIany officers and men were hit and fell ; and of the commanders of parties only acting Brigadier-General Windham, Captain Fj'ers, Captain Lewes, and Captain Maude got untouched into the Redan, and escaped scatheless from the volleys of grape and ritle balls which swept the flanks of the work towards the salient. It was a few minutes after twelve when our men left the fifth parallel. The musketry commenced at once, and in less than five minutes, during which the troops had to pass over abovit two hundred and thii-ty yards from the nearest approach to the parapet of the Redan, they had lost a large proportion of their officers, and were deprived of the aid of their leaders, with such exceptions as 1 have stated. The Riflemen behaved, as usual, admirably ; but from their position they could not do much to reduce the fire of the guns on the flanks and below the re-entering angles. The bravery and coolness of that deserving, and much neglected officer, Captain Fj'ers, were never more brilliantly displayed, or urgently called for. And even here let me ask how it is that an officer like Captain Fyers, with twentj^-one years' full service, who has gone through the campaigns of Candahar and Aff"ghanistan in 1841 and 1842, and was present in five actions — who was at Khelat, and served with his regiment throughout Nott's campaign — who was conspicuous for his gallantry at the Alma, and whose conduct in the trenches has been beyond all praise, is exposed to the pain and mortification of seeing young men, who were scarcely born when he was a soldier, raised above his head because they have had the good fortune to look at a battle from a distance, or to ride in the reai- of some cautious genei'al ? I know nothing of Captain Fyers's past services except by Hart's Army List, by which I learn, also, that be has purchased all his steps. Of his conduct at the Alma !uid of his present services I hear the praise from everj'' lip. It is to be hoped, at all events, that the question will not do him any harm, and if it does not, it is as well that the country should know how faithfully he has served her. However, AOL. II. L i4§ ATTACK ON THE REDAN. it is time to retmni to our storming party. As they came nearer the salient, the enemy's fire became less i'atal. They crossed the ahattis without difficulty; it was torn to pieces and destroyed by our shot, and the men stepped over and through it with ease. The Light Division made straight for the salient and projecting angle ol" the Kedan, and came to the ditch, which is here about fifteen feet deep. The party detailed for the purpose placed the ladders, but they were found to be too short. However, had there been enough of them, that would not have mattered much, but some had been left behind in the hands of dead or wounded men, and others had been broken, so that if one can credit the statements made by those who were present there were not more than six or seven ladders at the salient. The men led by their officers leaped into the ditch and scrambled vip the other side, ■whence they scaled the parapet almost without opposition, for the few Russians who were in front ran back and got behind their traverses and breastworks and opened fire upon them, as soon as they saw our men on the top. To show what difi'erent impressions difi'erent people receive of the same matter, let me remark that one officer of rank told me the Russians visible in the Redan did not exceed 150 men when he got into it, that the men could have carried the breastworks at the base with the greatest ease, if they had only made a rush for it. He further expressed an opinion that they had no field-pieces inside the breastworks from one re-entering angle to the other. A vegi- mental officer, on the other hand, positively assured me that when he got on the top of the parapet of the salient he saw at about a liuudred yards in advance of him the breastwork with gaps in it, through which were run the muzzles of field-pieces, and that in the rear of it were compact masses of Russian infantry, the front rank kneeling with fixed bayonets as if prepared to receive a charge of cavalry, while the two rear ranks over them kept up a sharp and destructive fire upon our men. The only way to reconcile these discrepancies is to suppose that the first spoke of the earliest stage of the assault, and that the latter re- ferred to a later period when the Russians may have opened embrasures in the breastwork, having been reinforced by the fugitives from the MalakholF, and by the troops behind the barracks in its rear. Lamentable as it no doubt is, and incre- dible almost to those who know how well the British soldier generally behaves in presence of the enemy, the men, when they reached the parapet, were seized by some strange infatuation, and THE ADVANCE. M7 began loading and file-firing, instead of fiallowing their officers, who were now falling fast, for they rushed on in front and tried to stimulate their soldiers by their example. Notwithstanding the popular prejudice to the contrary, most men stand fire much better than the bayonet — they will keep up a fusillade a few paces oft' much sooner than they will close with an enemy. It is difficult enough somrtimes to get cavalry to charge if they can find any decent excuse to lay by their swords and take to pistol and carabine, with which they are content to pop away for ever ; and when cover of any kind is near at hand, a trench-bred infantry- man finds the charms of the cartridge quite irresistible. The small partj^ of the 90th and 97th, much diminished, went on gallantly towards the breastwork, but they were too weak to force it, and they had to retire and get behind the traverses, at which part men of diiferent regiments had already congregated, and were keeping up a brisk fire on the I\i;ssians, whose heads were just visible above the breastwork. The 77th Regiment had furnished 1(50 men for the ladder party, and 200 for the storming pai*ty. The former, under the command of Major Welsford, were to proceed to the advanced parallel, and the latter, under the command of Lieut. -Colonel Handcock, were to be in the fifth parallel. At 5 a.m. the regiment paraded and marched off. Eight men were told off" to each ladder, and they had orders to leave the trench when the appointed signal was made from the Malakhoff". They were to be preceded by 100 of the Eiile Brigade, and by some Sappers and Miners to cut down the abattis, and they were to be followed by IGO of the 3rd Buff's, with twenty ladders also. The storming party was to follow the ladder party. A few minutes after twelve. Major Welsford, seeing the signal flying from the Malakhoff", gave the word — " Ladders to the front !" The men instantly ran out of the parallel towards the salient of the Redan, and at the same time. Colonel Handcock, with his 200 storm ers of the 97th, and 100 of the 90th left the parallel. The ladders were managed with difficulty, but on entering the place there was little or no resistance. However, the Russians were soon roused out of their casemates, and flocked to the traverses, from which they kept up a heavy fire on the men getting over the parapet or through the embrasures. Thus it happened that so many were killed and wounded, that no sufficient force was left of the fir.st an-ivals to make a rush across the open space which lay between the salient and the traverses. By a rapidly increasing flanking l2 148 ATTACK ON THE REDAN, and direct fire, converging on the salient, the Russians dimi- nished our force ; and as we were weakened they were strengtli- ened by parties from botli re-entering angles. The 3rd Buffs and 41st parties came in through the embrasvires immediately after the 97th and 90th, till the enemy made their rush, and drove the English into the angle, and finally over the parapet to the exterior slope, where men of different regiments of the Light and Second Divisions were closely packed together firing into the Redan as long as their ammunition lasted, and as long as supplies were handed from those in rear to the front. One hour and a half had elapsed, the Russians having cleared the Redan, but not yet being in possession of the parapets, when they made a second charge with bayonets under a heavy fire of musketry, and throwing great quantities of large stones, and grape, and small round-shot, drove those in front back on the men in the rear, who were thrown into the ditch. The gabions in the parapet also gave way, and rolled down with those upon them ; and the men in the rear, thinking all was lost, retired precipitately into the fifth parallel. A party of the 30th advanced from this parallel just as Colonel Windham was asking for rein- forcements, and ran up to the salient of the Redan, where they suffered severe loss. The leader of- the ladder party Avas killed by a gun fired as he entered the embrasure ; Captain Sibthorpo was hit in two places ; Lieutenant Fitzgerald and Ensign Hill were wounded ; Lieut. -Colonel Legh escaped unhurt ; Lieut.- Colonel Handcock was mortally wounded ; Captain Hutton's body was found in the White Blogs on the 10th September ; poor M'Gregor fell, inter prlmos, inside the Redan ; Captain Lumley, Avho shot two Russians in the angle on entering, was badly wounded ; and Lieutenant Goodenough died of his wounds soon after ; Captain AVoods and Lieutenant Browne were also hit, and Lieutenant Wliitehead was alone untouched, — so that the 97th Regiment had five officers killed and six wounded, out of a complement of tliirteen engaged; and their loss in non-com- missioned officers and men was 201 out of 360. Those officers of the regiment who saw Colonel Windham in the Redan say they were in ten minutes before they observed him. Captain Rowland's 41st made a very gallant attempt to charge across the open space with a few men, but they were nearly all killed or wounded, and he was obliged to retire. Lieutenant White- head, Captain Sibthorpe, Lieutenants Browne and Eitzgerald, remained, with Colonel Legh, till only three privates were left TUE FIRST ATTACK. 149 in the angle, and they then all retreated together. Immediately- after the head of the storming party of the Light Division entered, Colonel Windham got inside the Eedan on their right, below the salient on the proper left face of the Eedan, but in spite of all his exertions, he could do little more than the gallant officers of the 90th and 97th, and of the supporting regiments. As the Light Division rushed out into the open they were swept by the guns of the Barrack Battery and by several pieces on the proper right of the Eedan, loaded heavily with grape, which caused considerable loss amongst them ere they reached the salient or apex of the work at which they were to assault. The storming columns of the Second Division issuing out of the fifth pai-allel rushed up immediately after the Light Division, but when they came close to the apex. Brigadier Windham very judiciously brought them, by a slight detour, to the right flank of the Light Division, so as to come a little down on the slope of the proper left face of the Eedan. The first embrasure to which they came Avas in flames, but, moving on to the next, the men leaped into the ditch, and, with the aid of ladders and of each other's hands, scrambled up on the other side, climbed the parapet, or poured in through the embrasure which was un- defended. Colonel Windham was the first or one of the very first men to enter on this side, and with him entered Daniel Mahony, a great grenadier of the 41st, Kennelly and Cornellis of the same regiment. As Mahony entered with a cheer, he was shot through the head by a Eussian rifleman and fell dead before Colonel Windham, at the same moment Kennelly and Cornellis were wounded on each side of him. (The latter claims the reward of ol. offered by Colonel Herbert to the first man of his division who entered the Eedan.) Eunning parallel to the faces of the Eedan there is, as I have described, an inner parapet intended to shield the gunners at the embrasures from the eflPects of any sheU which might burst the body of the work, and strike them down if this high bank were not there to afford pro- tection from the splinters. Several cuts in the rear of the embrasures enabled the men to retire inside in case of need, and very strong and high traverses ran all along the sides of the work itself, oflering additional shelter. At the base of the Eedan, before the re-entering angles, is a breastwork, or, rather, a parapet with an irregular curve, which runs in front of the body of the place, and reaches to the height of a man's neck. As our men entered through the embrasures, the few Eussians 150 ATTACK ON THE ItKDAN. wlio wove between the salient and this bi-eastwork retreated behind the latter, or got behind the traverses for protection. From these they poured in a quick fire on the parapet of the salient, which was crowded by the men of the Second and Light Divisions, and om- men, with an inMuation which all ofticers deplore, but cannot alwaj's remedy on such occasions, began to return the fire of the enemy without advancing or charging behind the traverses. They loaded and fired as quickly as they could, doing but little execution, as the Eus- sians were well covered by the breastwork. There were also groups of Russian riflemen behind the lower traverses near the base of the Eedan who kept up a galling fii-e on our men. As the alarm of an assault circulated the enemy came rushing up fi'om the barracks in rear of the Redan, increasing the force and intensity of their fire, while our soldiers dropped fast. The Russians were encouraged to maintain theii' ground by the im- mobility of our forces and the weakness of a fusillade, from the effects of which the enemy were well protected. In vain the ofiicers, by voice and act, by example and daring valour, tried to urge our soldiers on to clear the work. The men, most of whom belonged to regiments which had sufiered very recently in the trenches, and were acquainted with the traditions of June 18th, had an impression that the Redan was extensively mined, and that if they advanced they would all be blown up, yet, to their honour be it recorded, many of them acted as became the men of Alma and Inkermann, and, rushing confusedly to the front, were swept down by the enemy's fire. The officers fell on all sides, singled out as a mark for the enemy by their courage. The men of the different regiments got mingled together in inextricable confusion. The 19th did not care for the orders of the officers of the 88th, nor did the soldiers of the 23rd heed the commands of an officer who did not belong to the regiment. The officers could not find their men — the men had lost sight of their own officers. All the Brigadiers, save Colonel Windham, were womided, or rendered unfit for the guidance of the attack. That gallant officer did all that man could do to form his men for the assault, and to lead them against the enemy. Proceeding fi'om traverse to traverse, he coaxed the men to come out, and succeeded several times in collecting a few of them, but they melted away as fast as he laid hold of them and either fell in their little ranks, or retired to cover to DESULTORY FIRING. 151 keep up tlieir fusillade. Mauy of them crowded to the lower parts of the inner parapet, and kept up a smart fire on the enemy, but nothing would induce them to come out into the open space and charge the breastwork. This was all going on at the proper left face of the Redan, while nearly the same scene was being repeated at the salient. Every moment our men were diminish- ing in numbers, while the Russians were arriving in swarms from the town, and rushing down from the MalakhofF, which had now been occupied by the French. Thrice did Colonel Windham send officers to Sir E. Codrington, who was in the fifth parallel, to entreat of him to send up supports in some order of formation ; but all these three officers were wounded as they passed from the ditch of the Redan to the rear, and the Colonel's ow'n aide-de-camp, Lieutenant Swire, of the 17th, a gallant young officer, was hit dangerously in the hip, as he went on his perilous errand. Supports were, indeed, sent up, but they advanced in disorder, from the fire to which they were exposed on their way, and arrived in dribblets on the parapet, only to increase the con- fusion and the carnage. Finding that he could not collect any men on the left face, Colonel Windham passed through one of the cuts of the inner parapet, and walked over to the right lace, at the dis- tance of thirty yai'ds from the Russian breastwork, to which he moved in a parallel line, exposed to a close fire, but, wonderful to say, without beingtouched. When he got behind the inner parapet, at the right face he found the same state of things as that which, existed at the left. The men were behind the ti'averses, iiring away at the Russians, or blazing at them fi-om the broken parts of the front parapet, and the soldiers who came down from the salient in fi-ont only got behind these works for cover while they loaded and fired at the enemy. The Colonel got some riflemen and a few men of the 88th together, but no sooner had he brought them out than they were killed, wounded, or dispersed by a concentrated fire. The officers, with the noblest devotion, aided Colonel Windham, and became the special marks for the enemy's riflemen. The narrow neck of the salient was too close to allow of any kind of formation, and the more the men crowded into it the worse was the disorder, and the more they sufiered Irom the enemy's fire. This miserable work lasted for an hour. The Russians had now congregated in dense masses behind the breastwork, and Colonel Windham walked back again across the open space to the left, to make one more att*?mpt to retrieve the day. The men on the parapet of the salient, who were 152 ATTACK ON THE EEDAK fii'ing at the Russ;itms, sent their shot about him, and the latter, who were pouring volley after volley on all points of the head of the work, likewise directed their muskets against him, hut lie passed through this cross fire in safety, and got within the inner parapet on the left, where the men were becoming thinner and thinner. A Eussiau officer now stepped over the breast- work, and tore down a gabion Avith his own hands ; it was to make room for a field piece. Colonel Windham exclaimed to several soldiers who were firing over the parapet, " Well, as you are so fond of firing, why don't you shoot that Russian ?" They fii'ed a volley and missed him, and soon afterwards the field piece opened on the head of the salient with grape. Colonel Windham saw there was no time to be lost. He had sent three oflacers for reinforcements, and, above all, for men in Ibrmation, and he now resolved to go to General Codrington himself. Seeing Captain Crealock, of the 90th, near liim busy in en- courairinor liis men, and exerting: himself with s^reat courage and energy to get them into order, he said, " I must go to the General for supports. Now mind, let it be known, in case I am killed, why I went away." He crossed the parapet and ditch, and succeeded in gaining the fifth parallel, through a storm of grape and rifie bullets, in safety ; and standing on the top of the parapet he again asked for support. Sir Edward Codrington asked him if he thought he really could do anything with such supports as he could afibrd, and said, if he thought so, " he might take the Eoyals," who were then in the parallel. •' Let the officers come out in front — let us advance in order, and if the men keep their for- mation the Redan is ours," was the Colonel's reply ; but he spoke too late — for, at that verj'' moment, our men were seen leaping into the ditch, or running down the parapet of the salient, and through the embrasures out of the work into the ditch, while the Russians might be perceived following them with the bayonet and with heavy musketry, and even throwing stones and grapeshot at them as they lay in the ditch. The fact was, that the Russians having collected several thousands of men behind the breastwork, and seeing our men scattered and con- fused behind the inner parapet of the traverse, crossed the breastwork, through which several field-pieces were now playing with grape on the inner face of the Redan, and charged our broken groups with the bayonet. At the same time the rear ranks mounting on the breastwork, poin-ed a heavy hail of bullets upon them over the heads of the advancing column. Tho DKEADFUL STKUGCLE. 153 struggle that ensued was short, desperate, and bloody. Our soldiers, taken at every disadvantage, met the enemy with the bayonet too, and isolated combats occurred, in which the brave fellows who stood their ground had to defend themselves against three or four adversaricis at once. In this melee the officers, armed only with their swords, had but little chance ; nor had those who carried pistols much opportunity of using them in such a close and sudden contest. They fell like heroes, and many a gallant soldier with them. The bodies of English and Russians inside the Redan, locked in an embrace which death could not relax, but had rather cemented all the closer, were found next day as evidences of the terrible ani- mosity of the struggle. But the solid weight of the ad- vancing mass, urged on and fed each moment from the rear by company after company, and battalion after battalion, pre- vailed at last against the isolated and disjointed band, which had abandoned that protection which unanimity of courage affords, and had lost the advantages of discipline and obedience. As though some giant rock advanced into the sea, and forced back tlie agitated waters that buffeted it, so did the Russian columns press down against the spray of soldiery which fretted their edge with fire and steel, and contended in vain against their weight. The struggling band was forced back by the enemy, who moved on, crushing friend and foe beneath their solid tramp. Bleeding, panting, and exhausted, om- men lay in heaps in the ditch beneath the parapet, sheltered themselves behind stones and in bomb craters in the external slope of the work, or tried to pass back to our advanced parallel and sap, having to run the gauntlet of a tremendous fire. Many of them lost their lives, or were seriously wounded in this attempt. The scene in the ditch was appalling, although some of the officers have assured me that they and the men were laughing at the pre- cipitation with which many brave and gallant fellows did not hesitate to plunge headlong upon the mass of bayonets, muskets, and sprawling soldiers — the ladders Avere all knocked down or broken so that it was difficult for the men to scale the other side, and the dead, the dying, the wounded, and the uninjured, were all lying in piles together. The Russians came out of the embrasures, plied them with stones, grajie shot, and the bayonet, but were soon forced to retire by the fire of our batteries and rifle- men, and under cover of this fire a good many of our men escaped to the approaches. In some instances the Russians per- 154 ATTACK ON THE REDAN. sisted in remaining outside, in order to plunder the bodies of those who were lying on the slope of the parapet, and paid the penalty of their rashness in being stretched beside their foes ; but others came forth on a holier errand, and actually brought water to our wounded. If this last act be true, it is but right to discredit the story that the Russians placed our wounded over the magazine in the rear of the Redan, near the 15arrack Bat- tery, ere they fired it — the only foundation for which report, as far as I can discover, is, that many of the bodies of our men found in the Redan were dreadfully scorched and burnt ; but there were many Russians lying there in a similar state. Gen- eral Pelissier observed the failure of our attack from the rear of the Malakhoff, and sent over to General Simpson to ask if he intended to renew it. The English Commander-in-Chief is reported to have replied that he did not then feel in a condition to do so. All this time the Guards and Highlanders, the Third and Fourth Divisions, and most of the reserves had not been en- gaged. They could, indeed, have furnished materials for making another assault, but the subsequent movements of the Russians render it doubtful whether the glory of carr^'ing the Redan, and of redeeming the credit of our arms, would not have been dearly purchased by the effusion of more valuable blood. As soon as we abandoned the assaTilt the firing slackened along our front, but in the rear of the Malakhoff there was a fierce contest going on between masses of Russians, now released fi'om the Redan, or dx-awn from the town, and the F'rench inside the work ; and the fight for the Little Redan, on the proper left of the Malakhoff", was raging furiously. Clouds of smoke and dust obstructed the view, but the rattle of musketry was incessant, and betokened the severe nature of the struggle below. Through the breaks in the smoke there could be seen now and then a tricolour, surmounted by an eagle, fluttering bravely over the inner parapet of the JMalakhoff. The storm of battle rolled fiercely round it, and beat against it ; but it was sustained by strong arms and stout hearts, and all the assaults of the enemy were directed in vain against it. We could see, too, our noble allies swai-ming over into the Malakhoff, from their splendid approaches to it from the Mamelon, or rushing with speed towards the right, where the Russians, continually reinforced, sought in vain to beat back their foes, and to regain the key of their position. The struggle was full of interest to us all, but its issue was never doubted. It would be vmti'ue to say that ADDITIONAL DETAILS. 155 the r<^sult of our assault was not the source of deep grief and morti lication to us, which all the glorious successes of our allies could not wholly alleviate. Even those who thought any attack on the Eedan useless and unwise, inasmuch as the possession of the iWalakhoft" would, in their opinion, render the Redan un- tenable, could not but regret bitterly that, having undertaken the assault, we had not achieved a decisive triumph, and that so much blood had been, if not ingloriously, at least fruitlessly, poured tbrth. Tiie French, indeed, have been generous enough to say that our troops behaved with great bravery, and that they wondered how we kept the Redan so long under such a tremendous fire ; but British soldiers are rather accustomed to the nil admivari under su(;h circumstances, and praise like that gives pain as well as pleasure. IMany soldiers, entertaining the opinion to which I have alluded, think that we should at once have renewed the attempt. It is but small consolation to them to know that General Simpson intended to attack the Redan the following morning, inasmuch as the Russians by their i-etreat deprived us of the chance of retrieving our reputation, and at the same time acknowledged the completeness of the success achieved by our alHes, and the tremendous superiority of the fire directed against them. As any particulars must be interesting, I have no hesitation in giving some additional details of the events of the 8th of September : — " The Second Bi-igade, Light Division, stormed at noon of the eighth. The 97th and 90th, 300 of each, commanded — the former by Major Welsford (whose head was blown off as he was mounting an embrasure — the gun was fired by a Russian officer, who immediately gave himself up as a prisoner to a sergeant of the 97th, that entered the moment after, throwing down his sword and saying, 'I am a prisoner of war'); the latter by Captain Grove, the senior officer of the regiment, present with the service companies. The salient was carried at once, and the men entered the stronghold, which is a work traced on a most obtuse angle, requiring a large mass of men to assault it, not only at the salient, but at the same moment on both flanks, so as to turn them, and to enable the salient storming party to advance down the interior space of the works at once, taking the defenders in front and flank, and indeed in rear, at the same moment. In consequence of attacking the salient only, no front 156 ATTACK ON THE KEDAN, could be formed, on account of the small interior space at that point ; the men were forced to advance by dribblets, and at the sami; moment fired on irom traverses on cither flank where they could not see their assailants, an evil at once obviated had the attack on the flanks and salient been simultaneous. The handful of men who assaulted and took the salient most gallantly held it against far superior numbers for a considerable time, until their ammunition being nearly expended ivnd receiv- ing no flank support, which could alone assist them to any pur- pose, and being rushed on from these flanks by a vastly superior force, they retreated to the extreme side of the parapet, where they remained, and, being reinforced by some fresh men, kept up a heavy and continuous fire on the Russians in the interior of the work; they held their ground on this fast sinking parapet of loose earth, stones, and broken gabions, under a most galling fire from both Hanks and in ii'ont, and continuous showers of vertical grape, from inside the work, for an hour and a half at least, when a sudden rush, made by the enemy, who had crept up the faces by the traverses, obliged the troops to retire, and step by step, pelting each other with huge stones, they retired, slipping and tumbling into the ditch, where many poor fellows were buried alive, from the scarps giving way. Then came the fearful run for life or death, with men rolling over like rabbits, then tumbling into the English trench, where the men lay four deep on each other. The men once in manned the parapet, and kept up a heavy and continuous fii'e on the enemy on the parapets of the Redan. The rest you know. The Rifles, as usual, behaved nobly, and where they had tried to creep up the ditch to pick oft' the Russians on the flanks they lay four and five deep, all together. Colonel Lysons, of the 23rd, as usual, was all energy, and, though severely wounded through the thigh and unable to stand, remained on the ground cheering on the men and giving directions to the last. Colonel Handcock, of the 97th, was shot through the head on the crest of the Redan, and died soon after arriving in camp. Captain Preston, and Lieutenants Swift and Wilmer, of the 90th, were all killed inside, where their bodies were found the next morning. Cap- tain Vaughan, of the 90th, whose conduct was beyond praise, was shot in both legs severely, and taken prisoner when we left the place, it being impossible to get him over the ditch. He was found in a Russian hospital to-day, and brought to camp. Colonel AVindham was most energetic in striving to keej) down THE FIGHT IN THE KEDAN. 157 the fire of tlio flanks after the first retrogression, and stood where the fire was hottest, trying to force a few men to make an attack on them ; but so dense was the fire tluit the men were mowed down as fast as a handful could be got together. He was backwards and forwards, cheering, directing, &c.; but a formed body of men alone could be of service, and that could not be got. Lieutenant and Adjutant Dyneley, of the 23rd Fusiliers, was so severely wounded that he is since dead, — a most excellent officer, and a great loss to the regiment and the service. Individual deeds of daring were too frequent to par- ticularize. The fii'st dead llussian on the e.Ktreme salient was a Eussian officer shot through the mouth, a singularly handsome man, with hands and feet white and delicate as a woman's. I wont trust myself to returns. The fire of our artillery had been splendid, as the number of broken guns proved." JEx lino disce omncs. The Light Division was deprived of its Brigadier, and of Colonels Unett and Lysons, the next senior officers, eai'ly in the day, and was left to tlie command of Colonel Bunbury. The 41st, which followed the Light Division storming party, whose position in advance was detennined, as I have already stated, by Colonel Windham and Colonel Unett " tossing up for choice," got into the Redan nearly as soon as the 90th and 97th, who formed the leading colunni of attack on the salient, and the parties of each division were soon inextricably mixed. I do not know the names of the fii'st soldiers of the 90th and 97th who got in, but several soldiers of these regiments lay dead and wounded in advance near the Russian breastwork on the morn- ing of the 9th. The men of the 41st who rushed into the Redan with Colonel Windham are really named Hartnadj^, Kennedy, and Pat IMahoney; the last, a fine tall Grenadier, fell dead in the embrasure by Colonel Windham's side, shot through the heart as he was shouting, '' Come on, boj's, come on !" His blood spouted over those near him, but the men rushed on till they became confused among the traverses, and then the scene took place which I have tried to describe in my former letter. The salient, however favourable to the assailants in one sense, was extremely disadvantageous to them in another, inasmuch as it prevented them getting into any kind of formation. It was of course the apex of the triangle, and was very narrow, while the enemy firing from the base poured a concentrated fire upon the point, and lelled every man who showed boldly from behind 158 ATTACK ON THE REDAN. the traverses, while thoj'' swept with a rapid file fire the top of the parapet on which our soldiers were crowded. At the iirst rush, had Colonel Windham been able to get a handful of men together to charge at the breastwork, the few Russians there must have been routed, and by the time their reinforcements came up our men would have been able to reverse the lace of the breastwork, aiid to close the Redan to their assailants. Biit seconds of time generate great events in war. Our delay gave the enemy tune both to recover from their panic when they wei'e driven from the salient, and to send up sti'ong bodies of men li-om their bomb-proofs and the cover at tlie back of tlie Redan^ and by degrees this accumulating mass advancing from the angles of the breastwork moved up along the traverses parallel with the parapets of the Redan, and drove our men into the salient, where, fed by feeble dribblets and incapable of forma- tion, they were shot down in spite of the devotion and courage of their leader and the example of their officers. The salient was held by our men for one hour and fifty-six minutes ! While General Codriugton, who seems to have become confused by the failure of the attack, and to have lost for the time the coohiess which has hitherto characterized him, was hesitating about sending up more men, or was unable to send them up in any formation, so as to form a nucleus of resistance and attack, the Redan was lost, and our men, pressed by the bayonet, by heavy fusillades, and by some field guns, which the enemy had now brought up, were forced over the parapet into the ditch. Colonel Eman, one of the vei-y best officers in this army, — a man of singular calmness and bravery, who was beloved by his regi- ment, his officers and men, and whose loss is lamented by all who knew him, was shot through the lungs as he was getting his men into order. His sword arm was uplifted over his head at the time, and it was thought his lungs were uninjured. The surgeon, when he was carried back, told him so, but he knew too well such hopes were vain. " I feel I am bleeding inter- nally," he said, with a sad smile. He died that night. Two captains of the same regiment fell beside him — Corry and Lock- hart. Captain Rowlands, who veiy much distinguished himself, had the mo.st extraordinary escapes, and was only sliglitly wounded, though hit in two places. Hamilton, Maude, and Kingscote are severely wounded. Major Pratt is sliglitly wounded ; 4 sergeants and 30 privates were killed ; 1 coi-poral and 12 privates were missing ; about GO others are severely DESPEEATPE ENCOUNTER. 159 wounded, and 73 lire slightly wounded — making a total loss of 18-1. The 49th, who were in reserve, lost 1 officer killed, 2 wounded, 2 privates killed, and 23 wounded. For the last thirty minutes of this contest the English, having exhausted their am- munition, threw stones at their opponents, but the Russians retaliated with terrible effect by " hand-grape" and small cannon- shot, which they hurled at our men. Captain Rowlands was knocked down and stunned by one of these missiles, which hit him right on the eye. As soon as he recovered and got up, he was struck by another grape-shot in the very same place, and knocked down again. The 3()th Regiment was formed in the fourth parallel, left in front, on the right of the 55th, and when the storming party moved out of the fifth parallel the su])ports occupied it, and were immediately ordered to advance on the salient angle of the Redan by three companies at a time from the left. The distance from the place in which they were posted up to the salient con- siderably exceeded 200 yards, and as the men had to cut across as quickly as they could in order to escape the raking tire of grape, and to support the regiments in front, they were breath- less when they arrived at the ditch. When tliey arrived, all blown by this double, they found only two scaling ladders at the scarp and two more at the other side to climb up to the parapet. They got over, however, and ascended the face of tlie Redan. By the time the supports got up the Russians were pushing up their reserves in great fbi'ce, and had already got some iield- pleces up to the breastwork, and the regiment falling Into the train of all around them, instead of advancing, began to fire from the parapet and upper traverses till all their ammunition was exhausted, when they commenced pelting the Russians with stones. In this condition no attempts were made to move the reserves whatever, while the Russians accuraalated mass after mass upon them from the open ground In rear of the Redan, and deployed their columns on the breastwork, wlience they delivered a severe fire upon us. The whole garrison of the I\la!akhoff and their svipports also came down on the left tiank of the Redan and added to our assailants, and Indeed there was reason to fight, for the possession of the Redan would have destroyed the enemy's chance of escape. In this gallant regi- ment there were 16 olficers, 23 sergeants, &c., and 384 privates ; on marching down to the trenches 1 officer was killed and 10 were wounded, 6 sergeants were wounded, 41 privates were IGO ATTACK ON THE REDAN. killed and 101 privates were wounded, and 2 officers and 6 pri- vates have since died of their wounds. The 55th Avas the support along with the 30th, and was stationed in the fourth parallel till the assaulting columns had cleared out of the iiith parallel, wliich it then occupied, and left soon afterwards to mingle in the melee at the salient of the Redan. Poor Lieut.-Colonel Cuddy, who assumed the com- mand when Lieut.-Colonel Cure was wounded in the right arm, was killed as he led his men up the open to the face of the Kedan ; and of the remaining 10 officers who went out with the regiment Captain Morgan, acting as Aide-de-Camp to the Briga- dier, had his arm broken. Captain Hume was hloion np hy a shell, but was not severely wounded. Lieutenant J. R. Hume, his brother, was badly but not dangerously wounded. Lieutenant Johnson was wounded, and was also baj^oneted by a Russian, who threw his fii-elock at him. The remaining officers, Captain Werge (Brigade-Major), Captain Rocksby, Lieutenants Elton, Harkness, and Burke (Adjutant), were not touched, nor was Acting Assistant-Surgeon Fane, who went down Avith the regi- ment to the fifth parallel. The regiment went out less than 400 strong, and suffijred a loss of \'iO officers and men killed and wounded. The gallant 62nd went into action 245 of all ranks. They were formed into two companies, with four officers to each, and the Colonel, Major, Adjutant, and Acting Assistant-Surgeon O'Callaghan, and formed part of the storming party. Colonel Tyler was hit in the hand crossing the open space in front of the Redan, and retired. Lieutenant Blakeston was shot in the very act of getting in through an embrasure of the Redan. Lieutenant Davenport was shot through the nose. On the para- pet two officers were killed or died of their wounds, and four officers were wounded out of a total of eleven ; three sergeants wei'e killed and four wounded out of sixteen, one drummer was killed out of eight, and fourteen rank and file were killed, and seventy-five were wounded out of 210. Such was this heavy day. To show how it fell on our allies I may give the follow- ing fact. The 15th regiment, Colonel Garrain, went into action 900 strong against the Little Redan, and came out 310. The two Chefs de Bataillon were killed, eleven officers were killed, and nineteen officers were wounded. It Avas observed that an immense number of the Russian dead in the front Avere -officers. THE RETREAT. IGl The " Vladimir" behaved admirably on Sunday. She took up a position within range of the French battery at Inkerniann. She was not safe anywhere, and stem on let the shot pass ovei* her till I was tired of seeing them miss her. Our attack lasted about an hour and three-quarters, as well as I could mak(! out, and in that time we lost more men than at Inkermann, where the fighting lasted for seven hours. At 1'48 p.m., which was alwut the time we retired, there was an ex- plosion either of a tumbrel or of a fougasse between the Mamelon and the Malalchofi', to the right, which seemed to blow up several Frenchmen, and soon afterwards the artillery of the Imperial Guard swept across from the rear towards the Little Kedan, and gave us an indication that our allies had gained a position from which they could operate against the enemy with their field pieces. From the opening of the attack the French batteries over Careening Bay had not ceased to thunder against the Russian fleet, which lay silently at anchor below, and a lively cannonade was kept up between them and the Inkermann batteries till the evening, which was interrupted every now and then by the intervention of the English re- doubt, and the late Selinghinsk and Volhynia redoubts, which engaged the Russian batteries at the extremity of the harbour. At one o'clock wounded men began to crawl up from the batteries to the camp ; they could tell us little or nothing. " Were we in the Redan ?" " Oh, yes ; but a lot of them had been killed, and the Russians Avere mighty strong." Some were cheerful, others desponding ; all seemed proud of their wounds. HaLf- an-hour more, and the number of wounded increased ; they came up by twos and threes, and — what I had observed before as a bad sign — the number of stragglers accompanying them, under the pretence of rendering assistance, became greater also. Then the ambulances and the cacolets (or mule litters) came in sight along the Woronzolf-road filled with wounded. Every ten minutes added to their numbers, and we could see that every effort was made to hurry them down to the front as soon as they were ready for a fresh load. The litter-bearers now added to the length of the melancholy train. We heard that the tem- porary hospitals in front were full, and that the surgeons were beginning to get anxious about the extent of their accommodation lor the wounded. It may here be observed that on the occasion of the ISth of June some of these temporary hospitals, which are intended to afford immediate aid in cases requiring operations en AOL. II. 31 162 ATTACK ON THE KEDAN. the spot, were under fire, and a shell burst in the very tent in which Dr. Paynter and his assistants were operating, the ground around it being continually torn up by round shot. On this occasion more care was taken in determining the sites of the tents. Another bad sign was that the enemy never ceased throwing up shell to the front, many of which burst high in the air over oui- heads, while the pieces flew with a most un- pleasant whii" around us. These shells were intended for our reserves ; and, although the fuses did not burn long enough for such a range, and they all burst at a considerable elevation, they caused some little injury and annoyance to the troops in the rear, and hit some of our men. The rapidly-increasing swarms of wounded men, some of whom had left their arms behind them, at last gave rise to suspicions of the truth ; but their answers to many eager questioners were not very decisive or intelligible, and some of them did not even know what they had been attacking. One poor young fellow who was stumping stiffly up with a broken arm and a ball through his shoulder, carried off his fire- lock with him, but he made the naive confession that he had '■' never fired it off", for he could not." The piece turned out to be in excellent order. It struck one that such men as these, however brave, were scarcely a fit match for the well-drilled soldiers of Russia ; and yet we were trusting the honour-, repu- tation, and glory of Great Britain to undisciplined lads from the plough, or the lanes of our towns and villages ! As one ex- ample of the sort of recruits we have received here recently, I may mention that there was a considerable number of men in draughts which came out last week to regiments in the Fourth Division who had only been enlisted a few days, and who had never fired a rifle in their lives ! It must not be imagined that such rawness can be corrected and turned into military efficiency out here, for the fact is, that this siege has been about the worst possible school for developing the courage and manly self-reliance of a soldier ; neither does it teach him the value of discipline and of imited action. When he goes into the trenches he learns to dodge behind gabions and to take pot shots from behind stones and parapets, and at the same time he ha.s no opportunity of testing the value of his comrades, or of proving himself against the enemy in the open field. The natural result follows. Nor can it be considered as aught but ominous of evil that there have been two courts of inquiry recently held concerning two most distinguished regiments — one, indeed. LOSSES IN THE ASSAULT. 1G3 belonging to the highest rank of our infiintry, and the other a well-tried and gallant regiment, which was engaged in this very attack, in consequence of the alleged misconduct of their young soldiers duinng night affairs in the trenches. The old soldiers behaved admirably, and stood by their officers to the last ; nor was there any lack of courage among the young lads who had only just joined, but they were deficient in discipline and in confidence in their officers. Whatever the cause, the assault was unsuccessful. General Simpson remained in the Green-hill Battery till six o'clock, at which hour General Pelissier sent to inform him that the Malakhoff was perfectly safe, and to ask him what the English intended to do with respect to the Redan. General Simpson had bj^ this time, it is said, formed the determination of attacking it the following morning at five o'clock with the Guards and the Third and Fourth Divisions, but he would not act when asked to do so by the French general. The difficulty of obtaining accurate information of the progress of an action cannot be better exemplified than ly- this fact, that at three o'clock one of our Generals of Division did not know wdiether we had taken the Eedan or not. Towards dusk the Guards who had been placed in reserve behind our Eight Attack were marched olF to their camp, and a portion of the Highlanders were likewise taken off the ground. The Guards only arrived from the trenches this morning, but, to their great credit be it said, they turned out again without a murmur after a rest of a couple of hours for breakfast, although they had been "on" for forty-eight hours previously. The Third Division and a portion of the Highlanders were sent down to do the trench duties in the evening and night. From the following statement of the loss sustained by the Light Division it will be seen that this gallant body, which behaved so well at the Alma, and maintained its reputation at Inkermann, suffered as severely as it did in gaining the former gi-eat victory; and an examination of the return, which is tolerably correct, and is certainly rather imder the mark, will, I fear, show that the ■winter, the trenches, and careless recruiting have done theii* work, and that the officers fm-nished a noble example of devotion and gallantry, which their men did not imitate. In the Light Division there are 73 officers and 9G1 men wounded — total, 1037. The loss of this division was 1001 in killed and wounded at the Alma. Ji2 164 ATTACK ON TIIK KEUAN. The numbci" of officers killed amounts to 15 ; of men killed to i)l — total, 107. The regiments of the division which fiir- uished storm in<^ columns were the 00th (or Perthshire Volun- teers) and the UTth (or Earl of Ulster's). In the 90th Captain Preston and Lieutenants Swift and Willmer were killed. Only three men were killed. Lieutenant Swift penetrated the furthest of all those Avho entered the Redan, and his dead body was discovered far in advance, near the re-entering angle. Captains Grove, Tinling, and Wade, Lieutenants Kattra}-, Pigott, Deverill, and Sir C. Pigott and 90 men severely ; Captains Perrin and Vaughan, Lieutenants Rous, Graham, and llaydock and 35 men slightly, wounded. Total Icilled, 3 officers, 3 meri ; wounded, 12 ofHcers, 126 men. In the 97th, Lieutenant-Colonel the Hon. H. R. Handcock, Major Welsford, Captain Hutton, and Lieutenant Douglas M'Gregor, and one man were killed. Captain Lumle}' and 10 men dangerously ; Captain Sibthorp, Lieutenant Goodenough, and 38 men severel}- ; Captain Woods, Lieutenants Hill, Fitzgerald, Brown, and 40 men slightlj', wounded. Total killed, 4 officers, 1 man ; Avounded, 7 ofHcers, 88 men. The colonel having been shot through the head, was carried to his tent, but the ball having lodged in the brain, he was never sensible, and expired that night. His widow Avas watching the progress of the struggle from the Picket-bouse, and all her worst fears were soon realized, for lier husband's body was brought by the very spot where sbe stood. Lieutenant M'Ciiregor, the son of the Inspector- General of Irish Constabulaiy, was adjutant of the regiment, and as remarkable for his unostentatious pietj^ and Christian virtues as for his bravery and conduct in the field. The rest of the division was engaged in supporting the storming columns. In the 7th Royal Fusiliers, Lieutenants Wright and Colt, and 11 men were killed ; Major Turner, Lieutenant-Colonels Hey- land and Hibbert, Captain Hickey, and Captain Jones (Alma), Avcre wounded. Sixty-seven men were wounded, and 11 killed. In the 23rd (Royal Welsh Fusiliers) Lieutenants Somerville and Dyneley are dead ; the fii'st was killed, the latter died of his wounds the following morning. Lieutenant-Colonel Lysons is slightly wounded, and the following officers are moi'e or less injured by shot, shell, or bayonet : — Captains Vane, Poole, Millett, Holding, Beck, Hall, Dare, Williamson, Tupper, O'Connor, liadcliffe, Perrott, and Beck. Total killed, 2 ofhi-ers, 1 man ; wounded, 13 officers, 130 men. In the 33rd, KILLED AND WOUXDED. 1G5 Lieutenant Donovan, a most promising and dashing ofHccr, lost his life while looking over the parapet at the light. He went with the regiment as an amateur, in company with his brother, all through J)u]garia, and into action with them at the Alma as a volunteer, where he so much distinguished himself that the colonel recommended him for a commission, which he received without purchase. Lieutenant-Colonel (iough, who was shot through the body at the Alma, was severely wounded ; Captain Ellis and Lieutenants AVillis and Trent were slightly, and the Adjutant Toseland severely, wounded ; 45 men wounded. Total killed, 1 officer ; wounded, 5 officers, 4-5 men. In the 34th, which was in the parallel behind tJie columns, 3 men were killed. Lieutenants HaiTis and Laurie are severely wounded, and 62 men are wounded. Tii the 19th, nearly every officer was touched more or less, 128 men were wounded, and 25 killed. The ollicers wounded are — Colonel Unett, severely (since dead) ; ]\lajor Warden, slightly ; Captain Chippindall, ditto ; Lieutenants Godfrey, Goren, and Massey, dangerously ; Molesworth, severely ; Bayley, slightly: Ensign Martin, slightly; and Ensign Young, dangerously. Total killed, 25 men ; wounded, 10 officers, 128 men. In the 77th, 42 men were wounded ; killed not known ; Captain Parker mortally wounded. Wounded, Captain Butts, slightly ; Lieutenants Knowles, Leggett, and Watson, ditto. One officer killed ; 4 officers, 42 men wounded. In the 88th Regiment, 105 men were wounded. Captain Grogan wa.s killed ; Lieutenant-Colonel Maxwell, C.B., was wounded twice in the thigh and once in the arm severely, but not dangerously. Captains Mauleverer and Beresford; Lieutenants Lambert, Hopton, Scott, and Ensign Walker, are wounded severely. Total, 1 officer killed ; wounded, 9 officers, 105 men. In the Rifle Brigade Captain Hammond, who was only three days out from England, and Lieutenant Ryder and 13 men were killed: and Lieutenant Pellew (slightly), Lieutenant Eyre severely. Major Woodford (slightly). Captain Eccles and Lieu- tenant Riley severely wounded. Total, 2 officers, 13 men killed ; wounded, 8 officers, 125 men. It will be seen by this that 964 men were wounded in the. Light Division ; and it is most credit- able to the medical officer in charge, Dr. Alexander, and to his surgeons, that all these men were placed comfortably in bed, and had their wounds dressed and their wants attended to by eiffht o'clock the same eveninc:. The loss of officers in Wind- 166 ATTACK ON THE EEDAN. ham's Brigade, and in the portion of Warren's Brigade which moved to his support is equally severe. The Second Division had on the General Staff, 1 officer, Lieutenant Swies, Aide-de-camp, dangerously ; 2 officers, Major Rooke and Lieutenant Morgan, Aide-de-camp, severely; 1 officer, Brigadier Warren, slight scratch in head ; and 1 officer. Colonel Percy Herbert, a still slighter scratch. Total 5 officers wounded. In 1st Royals, 2nd Battalion, 1 man was kiUed; 2 officers, Major Plunkett, Lieutenant WiUiams, and 3 men, severely ; Captain GiUman, and 2 men, dangerously ; Lieutenant Keate, and 13 men slightly, wounded. Total killed 1 ; wounded, 4 officers, 18 men. 3rd Buffs, 39 men killed, 76 wounded, 7 officers. Brigadier Strauhenzee (a scratch over the eye); Captain Wood Dunhar, Lieutenant Cox, Ensigns Letts and Peachey, wounded. In 41st Foot, 2 officers, Captains Lockhart and Every, 2 men, killed ; Colonel Eman, C.B., dangerously (since dead); Lieutenant Kingscote, severely; Major Pratt, Cap- tain Rowlands, Lieutenants Maude and Hamilton, slightly wounded. Total killed, 2 officers, 2 men ; Avounded, 6 officers, 111 men. In 47th Regiment, 3 men killed, 27 men Avounded. In 49th Regiment, Captain Rochfort and 2 men killed ; I\Iajor King, Ensign Mitchell, and 26 men, wounded. In 55th Regi- ment, Lieut.-Colonel Cuddy killed; Major Cure, Captain R. Hume, Captain J. Hume,. Captain Richards, Lieutenant Johnson, and 105 men, wounded. In C2nd Regiment, Captains Cox and Blakeston, killed ; Lieut.-Colonel Tyler, Major Daubeney, Cap- tain Hunter, Lieutenants Dirin and Davenport, and 67 men, wounded. In 95th Foot, Captain Sergeant and Lieutenant Packinton, slightly contused, and 3 men slightly wounded. In the First Division, 2nd Brigade, the 31st Foot lost an excellent officer. Captain Attree, before the assault took place ; he was mortally wounded in the trenches. They had two men slightly wounded. In the Scots Fusilier Guards, and 56th Foot, there were only two men slightly wounded — one in each regiment ; and out of 256 men admitted into the General Hospital, Third Division camp, 17 died almost immediately. In the Highland Division, while on duty in the trenches, the 42nd Foot had 12 men Avoundcd ; the 72nd Foot had , 1 officer. Quartermaster Maidmont, mortally wounded, 1 man killed, and 17 men w^ounded; the 79th had 11 men wounded; and the 93rd had 5 men wounded. In the Fourth Division, the 17th Reghnent had 3 officers, Lieutenant Thompson, Lieutenant Squire, and TOTAL KILLED AND WOUNDED. 1G7 Lieutenant Parkei-, and 19 men wounded ; the 20tli had 6 men wounded ; the 21st, 8 men wounded ; the 46th, 1 man wounded ; the 4Sth, G men wounded ; the 57th, 4 men wounded; the 63rd, Colonel Lyndsay (severely), and 4 men wounded, and 1 killed ; the G8th, 1 man wounded ; the Eifle Brigade, 1st Battalion, 2 men killed, and 9 men wounded. In the Eight Attack, Com- missary Hayter and 5 men Avere killed ; Captain Fitzroj^, Lieu- tenants Champion and Tyler, and 34 men of the siege tram were wounded. In the Left Attack, Captain Sedley, Major Chapman, Lieut. Elphinstone,E.E., and 7 sappers and miners, were wounded. The regiments in the trenches lost as follows : — Eifle Brigade, 2 wounded; 3rd Foot, 2 ditto; 17th, 1 ditto; 23rd Fusiliers, 13 ditto; 41st, 3 ditto; 55th, 1 ditto; 62nd, 2 killed, 3 wounded; 77th, 1 killed, 1 wounded; 88th, 1 wounded; 90th, 1 killed, 11 wounded ; 93rd, 1 wounded ; 97th, 2 wounded ; 19th, 1 killed, 1 wounded. The total given by Lieut. John Hall is 24 officers, and 129 men killed ; 134 officers, and 1897 wounded. There was a feeling of deep depression in camp all night. It was quite uncertain what the result would be, as we knew the French were only in the Malakhoff, and we were painfully aware that our attack had failed. It was an eventful night. The camp was full of wounded men ; the hospitals were crowded ; and sad stories ran from mouth to mouth respecting the losses of the officers, and the behaviom- of the men. CHAPTEE XVIL CAPTUEE OF SEBASTOPOL. Ketreat of the Russians — Evacuation of Sebastopol — Destruction of the fleet — Abandonment of the Redan — Conflagration in the town — Tre- mendous explosions — The last Russian soldier is withdrawn to the northern side — Reflections on the English attack upon the Redan — Sacrifices — The retreat of the Russians owing to the captura of the Malakhoff" by the French — Skilful arrangement of the Russian retreat — "Violent storm — Sebastopol in flames — The violence of the storm in- creases — A perfect tornado — The French general forbids all com- munication with the town — Delay in sending off the mail Sunday, September 9. Fatigued and worn out by excitement, I lay down to rest, but scarcely to sleep last night. At my last walk up to the IGS CAPTURE OF SEBASTOPOL. front of the camp, after sunset, notliing was remarkable, except the silence of the batteries on both sides — the firing being chiefly on the extreme left and right of the attack. It was rumoured about seven o'clock, that an artillery officer in the trenches observed the enemy pouring across the bridge in large masses, and that he sent word to that effect to General Simpson. About eleven o'clock, my Imt was shaken by a violent shock as of an earthquake, but I was so thoroughly tired and worn out that it did not rouse me for more than an instant ; having per- suaded myself it was " only a magazine," I was asleep again. In another hour these shocks were repeated in quick succession several times, so that Morpheus himself could not have slum- bered ; and so I got up, and walked up to Cathcart's Hill. Fires blazed in Sebastopol, but they were obscured with smoke and by the dust which still blew through the night air. As the time wore on, these fii-es grew and spread, fed at intervals by tremendous explosions. When the first grey rays of morn- ing came, the truth was plain — the Russians were abandoning the city they had defended so gallantly and so long. Their fleet was beneath the waters. A continuous stream of soldiery could be seen marching across the bridge to the north side, where all seemed agitation and alarm.. And what were we doing ? Just looking on. It was after five o'clock ere General Bentinck came out of his hut close to Cathcart's Hill, to " see what the matter was." The little group which stood there was silent, and awestruck by the appalling spectacle before them, and no man cared to speak. The trenches were occupied by the Highland Division, under Sir Colin Campbell, with the Third Division in support ; but the General did not occupj^ the Redan till after daybreak, and even then he did nothing, though he was informed soon after midnight that the Russians had aban- doned it. The resume of this Sabbath day's work is as follows : — At eight o'clock last night the Russians began quietly to withdi'aw from the town, in the principal houses of which they had previously stored up combustibles, in order to render Sebas- topol a Recond Moscow. With great art the general kept up a fire of musketry from his advanced posts, as though he intended to renew his efforts to regain the Malakhoff. About 12';W the men of the Highland division on duty in the trenches were surprised at the silence in the Redan, and some volunteers SEBASTOPOL IN FLAMES. 1G9 managed to creep into it. i!^othing could they bear but the lieavy breathing and groans of the wounded and dying, who, with the dead, were the sole occupants of the place. As it was thought the Redan was mined, the men came back, and soon afterwards the Russian tactics became apparent. About two o'clock flames were observed to break out in different parts of the town. They spread gradually over the principal buildings. By two o'clock the fleet, with the exception of the steamers, had been scuttled and sunk. At four o'clock a terrible explosion behind the Redan shook the whole camp ; it was followed by four other explosions equally startling. The city was enveloped in fire and smoke, and torn asunder by the tremendous shocks of these volcanoes. At 4'45 the magazine of the Flagstaff and Garden Batteries blew up. At 5'30 two of the southern forts, the Quarantine and Alexander, went up into the air, and the efl'ect of these explosions was immensely increased by the rush of a great number of live shell that followed, and which bui'st in all directions. While this was going on a steady current of infantry was passing in dense masses to the north side over the bridge, and at 6-45 the last battalion had escaped, and the hill sides opposite the city were alive Avith Russian troops. Several small explosions took place inside the town at 7'10. Columns of black smoke began to rise from the neigh- bourhood of Fort Paul at 7"12. At 7*15 the connexion of the floating-bridge with the south side Avas severed. At 7"10 flames began to ascend from Fort Nicholas. At 8'7 the last part of the bridge was floated off in portions to the north side. At nine o'clock several violent explosions took place in the works on our left, opposite the French. The town was by this time in a mass of flames, and the pillar of black, grey, and velvety fat smoke ascending from it seemed to support the very heavens. The French continued to fire guns on the left, probably to keep out stragglers, but ere the Russians left the place the Zouaves and sailors had obtained entrance, and were busily engaged in plun- dering. Not a shot Avas lii-ed to the front and centre. The Russian steamers were very busy towing boats and stores across. Our cavalry and sentries were sent up to the front of the camps to prevent any one going into the town, but without much success. I visited a good portion of the place. Explosions occurred all through the day, particularly on the left of the position. 170 CAPTURE OF SEBASTOPOL. The following After-Order of the day has been issued :— " General Aftee-Okdee. " Head Quarters, September 0. " The Commander of the Forces congratulates the army on the result of the attack of yesterday. " The brilliant assault and occupation of the Malakhoff by our gallant allies obliged the enemy to abandon the works they have so long held Avith such bravery and determination. " The Commander of the Forces returns his thanks to the general officers and officers and men of the Second and Light Divisions, who advanced and attacked with such gallantry the worlvs of the Redan. He regrets, from the formidable nature of the flanking defences, that their devotion did not meet with that immediate success which it so well merited. " He condoles and deeply sympathizes with the many brave officers, non-commissioned officers, and men who are now suf- fering from the wounds they received in the com-se of then* noble exertions of yesterday. " He deeply deplores the death of the many gallant officers and men who have falleii in the final struggle of this long and memorable siege. " Their loss will be severely felt, and their names long re- membered in this army and by the British nation. " General Simpson avails himself of this opportunity to con- gratidate and convey his warmest thanks to the general officers, officers, and soldiers of the several divisions, to the Royal Engineers and Artillery, for their cheerful endurance of almost unparalleled hardships and sufterings, and for the unflinching- courage and determination which on so many trying occasions thej^ have evinced. " It is with equal satisfaction that the Commander of the Forces thanks the officers and men of the Naval Brigade for the long and uniform course of valuable service rendered by them fi'om the commencement of the siege. " By order, " H. W. Barnaed, Chief of the Staff"." It is difficult, as I have had occasion to observe on similar occasions, to give with any pretensions to accuracy the details of a battle, but it becomes almost impossible to attain correctness CREDIT DUE TO THE RUSSIANS. 171 in describing sucli an affair as the assault on the Eednn under the peculiar circumstances -which attended it. In addition to the smoke of battle, flying clouds of dust mingled with sand blew right into the faces of the men and swept the hills in their rear, which were crowded with the spectators, or those who tried to be so. The irregularity of the ground offered another impediment to the view ; but greater than all these obstacles was this, that no one could from any conceivable position in front see what was going on inside the Ecdan, which seemed to engulf our soldiers within its huge dun-coloured and ragged parapets, only to vomit them forth again in diminished numbers. It was all along but too plain to understand what was taking place within from the external aspect of that ill-fated work, the slopes of which have twice astonished the world with the sight of British troops retreating after two successive attacks on its formidable defences. This Eedan has cost us more lives than the capture of Badajoz, without including those who have fallen in its trenches and approaches ; and, although the enemy evacuated it, we can scarcely claim the credit of having caused them such loss that they retired oAving to their dread of a renewed assaidt. On the contrary, we must, in fairness, admit that the Eussians maintained their hold of the place till the French were esta- blished in the Malakhofl", and the key of the position was torn from their grasp. They might, indeed, have remained in the place longer than they did, as tiie French were scarcely in a condition to molest them from the Malakhoff with artillery ; but the Eussian general is a man of too much genius and experience as a soldier to lose men in defending an untenable position, and his retreat was effected with masterly skill and with perfect ease in the face of a victorious enemy. Covering his rear by the flames of the burning city and by tremendous explosions, which spoke in tones of portentous warning to those who might have wished to cut off his retreat, he led his bat- talions in narrow files across a deep arm of the sea, which ought to have been commanded by our guns, and in the face of a most powerful fleet. He actually paraded them in our sight as they crossed, and carried off all his most useful stores and muni- tions of war. He left us few trophies and many bitter memories. He sank his ships and blew up his forts without molestation ; nothing was done to harass him in his retreat with the exception of some paltry efforts to l^reak down the bridge by cannon-shot, or to shell the troops as they marched over. 172 CAPTURE OF SEBASTOPOL. His steamers towed liis boats across at tlieir leisure, and when every man had been placed in safety, and not till then, the Russians began to dislocate and iloat off the diilcrent portions of their bridge and to pull it over to the north side. Tuesday SIorning, 1 a.m., September H. For the last hour an exceedingly violent storm has been raging over the camp. The wind blows with such fuiy as to make the hut in which I am writing rock to and fro, at the same time filling it with fine dust which comes in through every crevice. The Eus- sians are very busy with their signals over the Tchernaya. The fires in Sebastopol, fanned by the wind, are spreading fast, and the glare of the burning city illuminates the whole arcli of the sky towards the north-west. 2 O'CLOCK A.M. The storm has increased in strength, and rain is beginning to fall heavily. The most dazzling flames of lightning shoot over the plateau and light up the camp for an instant, the peals of thunder are so short and startling as to resemble in this, while they exceed in noise, the report of cannon. The rain has somewhat lessened the intensity' of the fii'e at Sebastopol, but its flames and those of the lightning seem at times to contend for the mastery. There is, indeed, a great battle raging in the skies, and its thunder mocks to scorn our heaviest cannonade. This supply of water will be very seasonable to the camp, where that article of consumption has been for a long time scanty and dirty. 4-15 A.:.i. In the whole course of my life I never heard or saw anj'thing like the deluge of rain which is now falling over this portion of the camp. It beats on the roof with a noise like that of a cata- ract : it is a veritable waterspout. The wind is shifting and ranges all round the compass. The lightning is fainter, and the gusts are less violent. Sometimes for a minute there is a pro- found calm ; then again it blows a hurricane. 4-23 A.:\I. The waterspout has passed away. Had it lasted ten minutes longer it might have drowned the camp. f)-45. A tornado is passing over the camp once more — hail, storm, and rain. The ground is converted into a mass of mud. STRENGTH OP THE AVOIUCS. 173 The disappointment of many persons who wished to spend a qniet snng day in Sebastopol is diminished by the knowh?dije that there is a positive order against going into the town, and tluit General Pelissier has dccUired his sentries will shoot any persons wlio maj' be found in the streets in disobedience of that injnnction. Passes will be issued from the Adjutant-General's department, without which all persons will be stopped at the entrances to the works. The rain and hail quenched the fire, which the wind had previouslj' fanned to exceeding fierceness, so that there was little left for the flames to devour. Sebastopol is now a mass of white ruins, streaked and barred with black smoke. For some reason unknown the mail is delayed to-day. Although the wind is high, it is not strong enough to prevent a good steamer putting to sea. All sorts of contradictory telegraphic despatches have been going fronr the Admiral to the Post-office at head-quarters throughout the day. It is a strange coinci- dent that delays occurred in sending ofi' the mail after Alma and Inkermann. One order was that the mail was to be landed from the "'Argo," at Ivamiesch, and sent to the '"Argus," at Balaklava, or vice versa as to the ships, for the names are rather puzzling. CHAPTER XVIII. THE IXTEEIOR OF SEVASTOPOL. Strength of the Eussian works — The assault — Surprise at tlie result — Gracluiil .sj)veacl of the contlagration — Explosions — I'hnider — Strange ^.iglits in the burning city — Interior of tlie ;^[alakhofr — Horrible siglit in till' Sebastopol Hospital — Attitudes of tlie dying — The Great Kedan — (Jallantry of the assault — Cause of its failure — Destruction of the Kussian steamers — Anniversary of the landing in the Crimea — Ilesults of the campaign. AVedxesday, September 12. It is delightful to abandon the old heading, " The Siege of Sebastopol," which for the last eleven months might have been stereotyped, but it is not clear what is to be put in its place, for the enemy, having abandoned the south side, seem prepared to defend the north side, and to erect there another monument of engineering skill, and to leave memorials of their dogged reso- lution. The wonder of all visitors to the ruins of Sebastopol is 174 THE INTERIOR OF SEBASTOPOL. divided — tlicy are astonished at the strength of the wov]-:s, and that they were ever taken ; thej^ are amazed that men could have defended them so loni^ witli such ruin around them. These feelings are apparently in opposition to each other, but a glance at the phxce would explain the appai-ent contradiction. It is clear, in the lirst place, that the fire of our artillery was searching out eveiy nook and corner in the town, and that it would have soon become utterly impossible for the Russians to keep any body of men to defend their long line of parapet and battery without such murderous loss as would speedily anni- hilate an army. Their enormous bomb-proofs, large and numerous as they were, could not hold the requisite force to resist a general concerted attack made all along the line with rapidity and withoiit pi-evious warning. On the other hand, the ^strength of the works themselves is prodigious. One hears our engineers feebly saying, " They are badly traced," and that kind of thing, but it is quite evident that the Russian, who is no match for the allies in the open field, has been enabled to sus- tain the most tremendous bombardments ever known and a siege of eleven months, that he was rendered capable of repuls- ing one general assault, and that a subsequent attack upon him at four points was only successful at one, which fortunately happened to be the key of his position, and the inference is that his engineers were of consummate ability, and furnished him Vt^itli artificial strength that made him equal to our best efforts. The details of the French attack will no doubt have been made public before this letter reaches you. It is sufficient to say that of the three or four points attacked — the Little Redan and the Malakhoff on the right, and the ]3astion Centrale and the re- entering angle of the FlagstaflP Work on the left — but one was carried, and that was a closed work. The Great Redan, the Little Redan, and the line of defence on the left were not taken, although the attack was resolute and the contest obstinate and bloody for both assailants and defenders. "Whether we ought to have attacked the Great or Little Redan, or to have touched the left at all, is another question, which is ventilated by many, but which it is not for me to decide. It is certain that the enemy knew his weakness, and was too good a strategist to defend a position of which we held the key. Sebastopol in flames, his ships sunk, told the stoiy next morning, and some 10,000 French and English soldiers were its commentators. Could we have done so, it would have been well for the English PROGRESS OF TfiE FIRE. 175 to claim the lionour of joining in the assault on the Malaklioif, the tower of which we had heaten into ruins, and abstain ftom attacking the Redan, which could offer a desperate, and as events proved, a successful resistance, till the works around the ]\Ialakhoff were taken. The surprise thi'oughout the camp on Sunday morning was beyond description when the news spread that Sebastopol Avas on lire, and that the enemy were retreating. The tremendous explosions, which shook the very ground like so many earth- quakes, failed to disturb many of our wearied soldiers. ^\ hen I rose before daybreak, and got up to Cathcart's-hill, there were not many ofEcers standing on that favourite spot; and the sleepers who had lain down to rest, doubtful of the complete success of the French, and certain of our own failui-e, little dreamt that Sebastopol was ours. All was ready for a renewed assault on the Redan, but the Russians having kept up a brisk fire from the rifle-pits and embrasures to the last moment, and having adopted the same plan along their lines, so as to blind oui" eyes and engage our attention, abandoned it, as is supposed, about twelve o'clock, and, the silence having attracted the atten- tion of our men, some volunteers crept up and looked through an embrasm-e, and found the place deserted by all, save the dead and dying. Soon afterwards, wandering fires gleamed through the streets and outskirts of the town — point after point became alight — the flames shone out of the windows of the houses — rows of mansions caught and burned up, and, before daybreak, the town of Sebastopol — that fine and stately mistress of the Euxine, on which we had so often turned a longing eye, — was on fire from the sea to the Dockyard Creek. Fort Alexander was blown up with a stupendous crash, that made the very earth reel, early in the night. At sunrise four large explosions on the left followed in quick succession, and announced the destruc- tion of the Quarantine Fort, and of the magazines of the bat- teries of the Central Bastion and Flagstaff Fort. In a moment afterwards the proper left of the Redan was the scene of a very heavy explosion, which must have destroyed a number of wounded men on both sides. Fortunately, the soldiers who had entered it early in the night were withdrawn. The Flagstaff and Garden Batteries blew up, one after another, at 4"45. At 5"30 there were two of the largest and grandest explosions on the left that ever shook the earth — most probably from Fort Alexander and the Grand Magazine. The rush of black smoke, 176 THE IXTERIOR OF SEBASTOPOL, grey and wliite vapour, masses of stone, beams of timber, and masonry into the air was appalling, and then followed the roar of a great bombardment ; it was a magazine of shells blown np into the air, and exploding like some gigantic pyrotechnic dis- play in the sky — innumerable flashes of fire twittering high up in the column of dark smoke over the town, and then changing rapidly into as many balls of white smoke like little clouds. All this time the Russians were marching with sullen tramp across the bridge, and boats were busy carrying ofl' materiel from the town, or bearing men to the south side, to complete the work of destruction, and renew the fires of hidden mines, or light up untouched houses. Of the fleet all that remained visible were the eight steamers and the masts of the sunken line-of-battlc ships. As soon as it was dawn the French began to steal from their trenches into the burning town, undismayed by the flames, by the terrors of these explosions, by the fire of a lurking enemy, or by the fire of their own guns, which kept on slowly discharging cannon shot and grape into the suburbs at regular intervals, possibly with the very object of deterring stragglei's from risking their lives. But red breeches and blue breeches, tepi and Zouave fez, could soon be distinguished amid the flames, moving from house to house. Before five o'clock there were numbers of men coming back with plunder, such as it was, and llussian relics were otlered for sale in camp before the Eussian battalions had marched out of the city. The sailors, too, were not behindhand in looking for " loot," and Jack could be seen staggering under chairs, tables, and lumbering old pic- tures, through evei'y street, and making his way back to the trenches with vast accumulations of Avorthlessness. Several men lost their lives by explosions on this and the following- day. At 7'10 small detonations of shells and powder maga- zines took place in the town behind the Bcdan, and on the left of the Dockyard Creek. At 7"12 immense clouds of black smoke rose from behind Fort Paul, probably from a steamer, which we found burning in the dockyard. The liussian columns, which had been defiling in a continuous stream across the bridge, now became broken into sm;ill bodies, or went over in intermittent masses, unscathed hy the shot and shell which plunged into the water close beside them. At 7'45, the last dense column marched past, and soon afterwards the bridge was pulled asunder, and the pieces were all floated across to the north side at 8'7. The boats did not cease pulling back- A PLEASING SCENE. 177 ward and forward all the time, and the steamers were exceed- ingly busy long after the garrison moved. At nine there were many explosions in the town amid the burning ruins, and the battlements of Fort Nicholas appeared in flames. Still there was no explosion there nor in Fort Paul. As the rush from camp now became very great, and every one sought to visit the Malakholf and the Redan, which were filled with dead and dying men, a line of English cavalry was posted across the front from our extreme left to the French right. They were stationed in all the ravines and roads to the town and trenches, with orders to keep back all persons except the Generals and Staff, and officers and men on duty, and to stop all our men returning with plunder from the town, and to take it from them. As they did not stop the French, or Turks, or Sardinians, this order gave rise to a good deal of grumbling, particularly when a man after lugging a heavy chair several miles, or a table, or some such article, was deprived of it by our sentries. The French in one instance complained that our Dragoons let English soldiers pass with Russian muskets and would not permit the French to carry off these trophies, but there was not any foundation for the com- plaint. There was assuredly no jealousy on one side or the other. It so happened that as the remnants of the French regiments engaged on the left against the MalakhofF and Little Redan marched to their tents this morning, our Second Division was drawn up on the parade-ground in front of their camp, and the French had to pass their lines. The instant the leading- regiment of Zouaves came up to the spot where our first regi- ment was placed, the men, with one spontaneous burst, rent the air with an English cheer. The French officers drew their swords, their men dressed up and marched past as if at a review, while regiment after regiment of the Second Division caught up the cry, and at last our men presented arms to their brave comrades of France, the officers on both sides saluted with their swords, and this continued till the last man had marched by. Mingled with the plunderers from the front were many wounded men. The ambulances never ceased, now moving heavily and slowly with their burdens, again rattling at a trot to the front for a fresh cargo, and the ground between the trenches and the camp was studded with carolets or mule litters. Already the funeral parties had conunenced their labours. The Russians all this time were swarming on the north side, and evinced the liveliest interest in the progress of the explosions and con- VOL. II. N 178 THE INTEMOR OP SEBASTOPOL. flagrations. They took up ground in their old camps, and swarmed all over the face of the hills behind the northern iorts. Their steamers cast anchor, or were moored close to the shore among the creeks, on the north side, near Fort Catherine. Ey degrees the Generals, French and English, and the staff officers, edged down upon tlie town, but Fort Paul had not yet gone up, and Fort Nicholas was burning, and our engineers declared the place would be unsafe for forty-eight hours, iloving down, however, on the right Hank of our cavalry pickets, a small party of us managed to turn them cleverly, and to get out among the French works between the Mamelon and Malakhoif. The ground is here literally paved with shot and shell, and the surface is deeply honeycombed by the explosions of the bombs at evei'y square yard. The road was crowded with Frenchmen, returning with paltry plunder from Sebastopol, and with files of Russian prisoners, many of them wounded, and all dejected, with the exception of a fine little boy, in a Cossack's cap and a tiny uniform greatcoat, who seemed rather pleased with his kind captors. There was also one stout Russian soldier, who had evidently been indulging in the popularly credited sources of Dutch courage, and who danced all the way into the camp with a Zouave. There were ghastly sights on the waj', too, — Russians who had died, or were dying as they lay, brought so far towards the hospitals from the fatal Malakhoff. Passing through a maze of trenches, of gabionnades, and of zigzags and parallels, by which the French had worked their sure and deadly way close to the heart of the Russian defence, and treading gently among the heaps of dead, where the ground bears full tokens of the bloody fray, we come at last to the head of the French sap. It is barely ten yards from that to the base of the huge sloping mound of earth which rises full twenty feet in height above the level, and shows in every direction the grinning muzzles of its guns. The tricolor waves placidly from its highest point, and already the French are busy constructing a semaphore on the top. Step briskly out of the sap — avoid those poor mangled heroes who are lying all round, and come on. There is a deep ditch at your feet, some twenty or twenty- two feet deep, and ten feet broad. See, here is the place where the French crossed — here is their bridge of planks, and here they swarmed in upon the unsuspecting defenders of the Malakhoff. They had not ten yards to go. We had two hundred, and were then out of breath. Were not planks better than scaling-ladders? INSIDE THE MALAKHOFF. 179 See how easily the French crossed. You ohserve on your right hand, as you issue from the head of the French trench, a line of gabions on the ground running up to this bridge. That is a flying sap, which the French made the instant they got out of the trench into the MalakhoJf, so that they were enabled to pour a continuous stream of men into the works, with comparative safety from the flank fii-e of the enemy. In the same way they at once dug a trench across the work inside, to see if there were any galvanic wires to fire mines. Mount the parapet and descend — of what amazing thickness are these embrasures ! From the level of the ground inside to the top of the parapet cannot be less than eighteen feet. There are eight rows of gabions piled one above the other, and as each row recedes towai'ds the top it leaves in the ledge below an excellent hanqiiette for the defenders. Inside the sight is too terrible to dwell upon. The French are carrying away their own and the Russian wounded, and there are four distinct piles of dead formed to clear the way. The ground is marked by pools of blood, and the smell is already noisome ; swarms of flies settle on dead and dying ; broken muskets, torn clothes, caps, shakos, swords, bayonets, bags of bread, canteens, and haversacks, are lying in indescribable confusion all over the place, mingled with heaps of shot, of grape, bits of shell, cartridges, case and canister, loose powder, official papers, and cooking tins. The traverses ai-e so high and deep that it is almost impossible to get a view of the whole of the Malakhoff from any one spot, and there is a high mound of earth in the middle of the work, either intended as a kind of shell proof, or the remains of the old White Tower. The guns, which to the number of sixty were found in the work, are all ships' guns, and mounted on ships' carriages, and worked in the same v/ay as ships' guns. There are a few old- fashioned, oddly-shaped mortars. Look around the work, and you will see that the strength of the Eussian was his weakness — he fell into his own bomb-proofs. In the parapet of the work may be observed several entrances — very narrow outside, but descending and enlarging downwards, and opening into rooms some four or five feet high, and eight or ten square. These are only lighted from the outside by day, and must have been pitcii dark at night, unless the men were allowed lanterns. Here the garrison retired when exposed to a heavy bombard- ment. The odour of these narrow chambers is villanous, and the ail" reeks with blood and abominations unutterable. There n2 180 THE INTERIOR OF SEBASTOPOL. are several of these place?, and they might bid defiance to the heaviest mortars in the world : over the roof is a layer of ships' masts, cut into junks, and deposited carefully; then there is over tliem a solid layer of earth, and above that a layer of gabions, and above that a pile of earth again. In one of tiiese dungeons, which is excavated in the solid rock, and was probably underneath the old White Tower, the officer commanding seems to have lived. It must have been a dreary residence. The floor and the entrance were lit- tered a foot deep with reports, returns, and perhaps despatches assuring the Czar that the place had sustained no damage. The garrison were in these narrow chambers enjoying their siesta, which they invariably take at twelve o'clock, when the French burst in on them like a torrent, and, as it were, drowned them in their holes. The Malakhoif is a closed work ; it is only open at the rear to the town, and the French having once got in, threw open a passage to their own rear, and closed up the front and the lateral communications with the curtains leading to the Great Redan and to the Little Redan. Thus they were enabled to pour in their supports, in order and without loss, in a con- tinued stream, and to resist the efforts of the Russians, which were desperate and repeated, to retake the place. They brought up their tield-guns at once, and swept the Russian reserves and supports, M'hile Strange's batteries from the Quarries carried death through their ranks in every quarter of the Karabelnaia. With the Malakhoff the enemy lost Sebastopol. The ditch outside, towards the north, was yet full of French and Russians piled over each other in horrid confusion. On the right, towards the Little Redan, the ground was literally strewn with bodies as thick as they could lie, and in the ditch they were piled over each other. Here the French, victorious in the Malakhoff, met with a heavy loss and a series of severe repulses. The Russians lay inside the work in heaps like carcases in a butcher's cai't, and the wounds, the blood — the sight, exceeded all I had hitherto witnessed. Descending from the MalakholT, we come upon a suburb of ruined houses open to the sea — it is filled with dead. The Russians have crept away into holes and corners in every house, to die like poisoned rats ; artillery horses, with their entrails torn open by shot, are»stretched all over the space at the back of the JMalakhoff, marking the place where the Russians moved up their last column to retake it under the cover of a heavy field battery. Every house, the church, some HOREOKS OF WAB. 181 public buildings, soiitiy-boxes, all alike are broken and riddled by cannon and mortar. Turning to the left, we proceed by a very tall snow-white wall of great length to the dockyard gate- way. This wall is pierced and broken through and through with cannon. Inside are the docks, which, naval men say, are unequalled iu the world. Tlie steamer is blazing merrily in one of them. Gates and store sides are splintered and pierced by shot. There are the stately dockyard buildings on the right, which used to look so clean and white and spruce. Parts of them are knocked to atoms, and hang together in such shreds and patches that it is only wonderful they cohere. The soft white stone of which they and the walls are made is readily knocked to pieces by a cannon-shot. Fort Paul is untouched. There it stands, as if frowning defiance at its impending fate, right before us, and warning voices bid all people to retire, and even the most benevolent retreat from the hospital, which is in one of these buildings, where they are tending the miserable wounded. I visited it next day. Of all the pictures of the horrors of war which have ever been presented to the world, the hospital of Sebastopol pre- sents the most horrible, heart-rending, and revolting. It cannot be described, and the imagination of a Fuseli could not conceive anything at all like unto it. How the poor human body can be mutilated and yet hold its soul within it when every limb is shattered, and every vein and artery is pouring out the life- stream, one might study here at every step, and at the same time wonder how little will kill ! The building used as an hospital is one of the noble piles inside the dockyard wall, and is situated iu the centre of the row at right angles to the line of the Eedan. The whole row was peculiarly exposed to the action of shot and shell bounding over the Redan, and to the missiles directed at the Barrack Battery, and it bears in sides, roof, windows, and doors, frequent and distinctive proofs of the severity of the cannonade. Entering one of these doors, I beheld such a sight as few men, thank God, have ever wit- nessed ! In a long low room, supported by square pillars, arched at the top, and dimly lighted through shattered and nnglazed window-frames, lay the wounded Russians, who had been abandoned to our mercies by their General. The wounded, did I say ? No, but the dead — the rotten and festering corpses of the soldiers, Avho were left to die in their extreme agony, untended, uncared for, packed as close as they could be stowed. 182 THE INTEKIOR OF SEBASTOPOL. some on the floor, others on wretched trestles and bedsteads, or pallets of straw, sopped and saturated with blood, which oozed and trickled through upon the floor, mingling with the di'oppings oi" corruption. With the I'oar of exploding fortresses in their ears, with shells and shot pouring through the roof and sides of the rooms in which thej'^ lay, with the crackling and hissing of fire around them, these poor fellows who had served their loving friend and master the Czar but too well, were consigned to their terrible fate. Many might have been saved by ordinary care. Many lay, yet alive, with maggots crawling about in theii' wounds. Many, nearly mad by the scene around them, or seeking escape from it in their extremest agony, had roUed away under the beds, and glared out on the heart-stricken spectator — oh ! with such looks ! Many with legs and arms broken and twisted, the jagged splinters sticking through the raw flesh, implored aid, water, food, or pity, or, deprived of speech by the approach of death, or by dreadful injuries in the head or trunk, pointed to the lethal spot. Many seemed bent alone on making their peace with Heaven. The attitudes of some were so hideously fantastic as to appal and root one to the ground by a sort of dreadful fascination. Could that bloody mass of clothing and white bones ever have been a human being, or that burnt black mass of flesh have ever had a human soiil ? It was fearful to think what the answer must be. The bodies of numbers of men were swollen and bloated to an in- credible degree, and the features distended to a gigantic size, with eyes protruding from the sockets, and the blackened tongue lolling out of the mouth, compressed tightly by the teeth, which had set upon it in the death-rattle, made one shudder and reel round. In the midst of one of these " chambers of horrors " — for there were many of them — were found some dead and some living English soldiers, and among them poor Captain Vaughan, of the 90th, who has since died of his wounds. I confess it was impossible for me to stand the sight, which horrified our most experienced sm-geons ; the deadly, clammy stench, the smell of gangrened wounds, of corrupted blood, of rotting flesh, were intolerable and odious beyond endurance. But what must have the wounded felt, who were obliged to endure all this, and Avho passed away without a hand to give them a cup of water, or a voice to say one kindly word to them ? Most of these men were wounded on Saturday — many, perhaps, on the Friday be- fore — indeed, it is impossible to say how long they jnigbt h^YO THE GREAT REDAN. 183 been there. In the hurry of their retreat, the Muscovites seem to have carried in dead men to get them out of the way, and to have put them upon pallets in horrid mockery. So that their retreat was secured, the enemy cared hut little for their wounded. On IMonday only did they receive those whom we sent out to them during a brief armistice for the piirpose, which was, I believe, sought by ourselves, as our over-crowded hospitals could not con- tain, and our over-worked surgeons could not attend to any more. The Great Redan was next visited. Such a scene of wreck and ruin ! — all the houses behind it a mass of broken stones — a clock turret, with a shot right through the clock ; a pagoda in ruins ; another clock-tower with all the clock destroyed save the dial, with the words, " Barwise, London," thereon; cook- houses, where human blood was running among the utensils ; in one place a shell had lodged in the boiler, and blown it and its contents, and probably its attendants, to pieces. Everywhere wreck and destruction. This evidently was a heau quartier once. The oldest inhabitant could not recognise it now. Climbing up to the Redan, which was fearfully cumbered with the dead, v>re witnessed the scene of the desperate attack and defence, which cost botli sides so much blood. The ditch out- side made one sick — it was piled up with English dead, some of them scorched and blackened by the explosion, and others lacerated beyond recognition. The quantity of broken gabions and gun-carriages here was extraordinary ; the ground was covered with them. The bomb-proofs were the same as in the MalakhofF, and in one of them a music-book was found, with a woman's name in it, and a canary bird and vase of flowers were outside the entrance. Thbrsdat, Seirtemher 13. As the Russian steamers were still intact, notwithstanding the efforts of the French battery at the head of the roads near Inkermann to touch them, it was resolved to construct a battery on the ruins of Fort Paul, within 700 yards of the northern shore, under which they had taken refuge. The steamers lay in three irregular lines to the eastward of Fort Catherine, where the deep creeks in the high (ilifts gave them some sort of shelter against the fire of the French. There they were agents of much mischief and injury to the allies from the battle of Inkermann down to this time. There was the famous " Vladimir," with her two large funnels and elegant clipper hull ; the " Elbceuf," the steamer which made the celebrated dash into 184 THE INTERIOR OF SEBASTOPOL. the Black Sea througli all our fleet last j'ear, and burnt some Turkish vessels near Heraclea, just as the " Vladimir" was seen in Odessa harbour in tlie mouth of July, 1854 ; there was the " Gromonossctz," which had caused such an annoyance from the Dockyard Creek ; and tliere were five others with hard, and to me unknown names, as calmly floating on the water as though no eager eyes were watching from every battery to lay a gun upon them. A number of very capacious dockyard Inmps and rowboats were also secured in these creeks or hung on by the steamers. In the course of the afternoon of the 11th (Tuesday) some of the Kussian guns in the ruined battery below the Redan were turned on these steamers, and in a few rounds, not more than twelve, I think, succeeded in hulling them eight times. The range was, however, rather long, and it became expedient to move a little nearer, in order to afford them the full advantage of our shot and shell. On Tuesday evening, when Lieutenant Gough, of the " London," who commanded in the Naval Bat- teries on the left attack, came down with his men, he was ordered to take his relief over to the right attack, and to accomjtany Lieutenant Anderson, R.E., down to the town, in order to erect a battery for two ninety-five cwt. guns on the right of St. Paul's Battery. The site of this batterj' was about 700 j'arcls from Fort Catherine, on the opposite side. The men, although deprived of the quiet night and undistui'bed repose they anticipated, set to work with a will, and began throwing up the parapet, and filling gabions, and, as it was possible that some interruption of the work might take place from the other side, a covering party of 120 men was ordered down from the trenches. There were French sentries in charge of this portion of the place, and the little party found that their allies were on the qui vive, and were keeping a sharp look-out on all sides. The men had been working some time, when it was observed that one of the enemy's steamers had left the north side, and was slowly and noiselessly dropping down on the very spot where the sailors and the covering party were at their labours. The night was dark, but they could clearly make out tlie steamer edging down upon them, and coming closer and closer. Every moment they expected her guns to open on them with griipc and canister. The men therefore lay down upon their faces, and kept as near to the ground as they could, and the steamer came over gently till she was within about 100 yards of the very spot where they had been worldng. They heai'd her anchor splash RUSSIAN STEAMERS DESTROYED. 185 into the water, and then the rattle of her cahle as it ran throiig]i the hawsehole. Now, certainly, they were " going to catch it ;" but, no, the Russian opened no port and showed no light, hut seemed to be making himself comfortable in his new quarters. Captain Villiers, of the 47th, who commanded the covering party, ordered his men to observe the utmost silence, and the same injunction Avas given to the seamen. About 2*30 in the morning, when she had been an hour or so in her novel berth, a broad light was perceived in her fore hatchway. The leading steamer on the opposite side in a second afterwards exhibited gleams of equal brightness, and then one ! two ! three ! four ! five ! — as though from signal guns, the remaining steamers, with one exception, emitted jets of fire from their bows. The jets soon became columns of fiame and smoke— the wind blew fresh and strong, and the night was dark-, so that the fire spread with rapidity along the vessels, and soon lighted up the whole of the northern heavens. The masts were speedily licked and warmed into a fiery glow, and the rigging burst out into fitful wavering lines of light struggling with the wind for life ; the j-ards shed lambent showei's of sparks and burning splinters upon the water. The noithern works could be readily traced by the light of the conflagration, and the faces of the Russian soldiers and sailors who were scattered about on the face of the clifi^ shone out now and then and justified Rembrandt. The work of destruction sped rapidly. The vessels were soon nothing but huge arks of blinding light, which hissed and crackled fiercely, and tlu-ew up clouds of sparks and embers, and the guns, as they became hot, exploded, and shook the crazy hull to atoms. One after another they went down into the seething waters. The cavalry out on the plains wondered what great conilagration had broken out anew in the town. At daybreak, only one steamer remained. A boat pushed alongside her from the shore. They boarded her, and, after remaining below about ten minute.s, returned to their boat and regained the shore. Very speedily the vessel began to be seized with a sort of internal convulsion — fu'st she dipped her bows, then her stem, then gave a few iineasy shakes, and at length, after a short shiver, went down bodily, cleverly scuttled. Thus was Sinope avenged. Of the men who planned, the sailors who executed, and the ships which were engaged on that memorable expedition, scarcely one trace now remains, KornilofF, Nachimofi', Istomine, and their crews have disai^peared : their vessels now rest at the bottom of the roadstead of Sebas- 186 THE INTERIOR OF SEBASTOPOL. topol. The Russians prefer being agents of their own destruction, and do not give the conqueror a chance of parading the fruits of his victory. We cannot delight the good people of Plymouth or Portsmouth by the sight of Russian liners and steamers. We can only drive the enemy to the option of destroying or of doing the work for him, and he invariably prefers the former. The Russians are fortifying themselves on the north side. The French are gone towards Baidar. Our Naval Brigade, after long, brilliant, and ill-requited services, is to be broken up at once. Friday, Septeniber 14. It is just one year this day since we landed at Kalamita Bay. In that time we have stormed the heights of the Alma, sustained the glorious disaster of Balaklava, fought the great light of Inkermaun, swept the sea of Azoff and its seaboard, wasted Kertch, and seized upon Yenikale — have witnessed the battle of the Tchernaya — have opened seven bombardments upon Sebas- topol — have held in check every general and every soldier that Russia could spare ; and now, after the endurance of every ill that an enemy at home and abroad could inflict upon us — after passing through the summer's heat and winter's frost — after being purged in the foe of sickness and death, repulse and dis- aster, and above all in the fiery glow of victory, the British standard floats over Sebastopol. But our army is not the same. Physiologists tell us that we undergo perpetual change, and that not a bit of the John Smith of 1854 goes into the composition of the same respected individual in 1864, but we have managed to work up tens of hundreds of atoms in our British army between 1854 and 1855 ; and there are few indeed to be found in the present body corporate who landed in the Crimea a twelve- month ago. Some regiments have been thrice renewed, others have been changed twice over. The change is not for the better — the old stufl" was better than the new. The silence in camp is almost alarming ; were it not for a gun now and then between the town and the north side, and across the Tchernaya, it would be appalling. Tliere is an English- French Commission sitting in the town. Colonel Windham is Commandant of the British portion of it. The 3rd BuflTs have received orders to occupy it, and the French garrison is strengthened. The enemj^ work all day at new batteries. The Guards are to make the roads between Balaklava and the camp. The Ai-my Works Corps, like all bodies of men who come FEMALE DOCTOR. 187 out from England to this climato, have sufiered severely from disease and death ; and up to the present time not less than sLxteen per cent, of the navvies and artificers have died from different forms of malady. One ship, which sailed some time ago from home with a considerahle numher of them, has not yet readied Balaklava, thouglx she is considerably beyond her time. The corps at present here does not exceed 540 men, and they are principally employed in trenching and repairing the railway, which is a vital and all-important work. Sir H. Jones made an application to Mr. Doyne to send a portion of his men into the trenches to assist in the siege approaches, but the latter very prudently m-ged on the General the necessity of getting the railway into proper order, and the bad economy of placing skilled labourers in a position which would certainly not con- duce to the satisfactory development of their capabilities, as no untrained and undisciplined men without arms or military habits and experience could be expected to pursue their work calmly and energetically with round shot and grape tearing through them, and shell bursting amid their ranks. At the same time, Mr. Doyne and the gentlemen employed as officers of the corps expressed their readiness to lead their men into the trenches, if the General of Engineers required them to do so. The reasons urged against such a mode of emploj^ing the corps prevailed, and they are now engaged in the more safe and peaceful works for which they are peculiarly fitted. Locomotives and stationary engines have been applied for, and will speedjly be sent out to prepare the railway more adequately for its herculean task in the winter, and Mr. Dojnie expects an aug- mentation of 500 men to the corps under his command. The sickness which harassed the first comers is now of a milder type, and diminishes daily in virulence. Many of the men have suffered from theii- own recklessness in eating and drinking; but it is also a fact that some of the steadiest and most sober men in the corps shared the fate of their imprudent and thought- less comrades. In the hour of their illness, these men, in common with many others, have found a kind and successful physician. Close to the railway, half-way between the Col de Balaklava and Kadikoi, Mrs. Seacole, formerly of Kingston and of several other parts of the world, such as Panama and Chagres, has pitched her abode — an u-on storehouse, with wooden sheds and outlying tributaries, and here she doctors and cures all manner of men witb extraordinary success. She is always in 188 FIRST FRUITS OF VICTORY. attendance near the battle-field to aid the wounded, and has earned many a poor fellow's blesshigs. The " Diamond," " AVasp," and " Leandev" go home at once. Saturday, September 15, 10 a.m. No news. The Russi'Mis are still fortifying the north side. CHAPTER XIX. FIEST FKUITS OF A'ICTOET. The armies prepare to go into winter quarters — An armistice — The work of destruction by no means complete — Inaction — Crimean mud — Accumu- lation of stores — Anniversary of the landing of the Allies at Old Fort — Keduced strength of the Guards — The Highland brigade — First anni- versary of the battle of the Alma — Distribution of medals, clasps, and ribands — Alma dinners — Ceremonies in the French camp in honour of the event — General Pelissier made a Marshal of France — Strange movements in the Kussian camp — A large magazine described — Dis- appearance of the Russian Donny brook Fair — Absurd rumours — Russian line — A dead lock — Abundance of supplies in the Russian camp — A flag of truce — French mortar practice — Fleasant diversion — Perplexing evolutions performed by the fleet — French breaching battery — Boat expeditions dui-ing the night — A thunder-storm. Sei)tember IS. Since last Saturday veiy little has occurred, and the news may be briefly stated. The Russians continue to strengthen their position on the north side, and to hang on their old points of occupation towards the ridges over Aitodor. The Naval Brigade has been broken up and sent on board ship. The French have moved large masses of the corps of the left siege army to the rear between Baidar and Tchorgoun. Our batteries have been disarmed. The roads to the camp are undergoing repair, and the Army Works Corps, assisted by soldiers, is engaged in the formation of a new road from Balaklava which will run parallel with the line of railway. Everything around us indicates an intention on the part of the chiefs of putting the army into winter quarters on the site of their present encampment, bxit there are signs equally unequivocal that a blow is to be struck at the enemy before the troops settle down to encounter the rigours of the winter. These signs, insignificant as they may appear when taken separately, in the aggregate are unmistakeable, unless our Generals merely desire to wile away the time in shamming and in frightening the enemj' with bugaboo expeditions, just as they are endeavouring to alarm us by their extensive fortifica- THE WORK OP DESTRUCTION^. ISO tions on the north side, or as they sought to intimidntc us in foiiner days by erecting street batteries, barricades, and internal lines of defence. In the first place, great activity prevails throughout the Land Transport Corps, several divisions of which have received ordei's to hold themselves in readiness for imme- diate service. Colonel McMurdo is busily engaged in ascertain- ing the actual capabilities of his corps, and has been required to furnish at head-quarters an accurate estimate of the amount of supplies of a certain character which he could convey, and of the number of mules and horses fit for duty. Our Sappers and Miners are at work sinking deep mines, by which they intend to blow in and destroy the unrivalled docks, that have cost Russia so much anxiety, money, and bloodshed, and, if it were not that they were intended to be, and have been, accessory to violence and slaughter, one would regret that such splendid memorials of human skill should be shattered to atoms; but the fleet of Sinope sailed thence, and in them it was repaired on its return, and these vessels were built, not to foster peace and commerce, but to smite and destroy them. Preparations for the desti'uction of these colossal works are being made under the eyes of the enemy, who do not attempt to disturb the working parties by firing from the north side, although their guns have the range of the place at tolerable elevations. Nearer to them still, on the open quay, parties of our men are constantly engaged in burning old stores, clothing, boots, belts, shakos, bags, and such articles as the enemy left behind them, but the Russians appear not to care for these things. They are not to be always trusted, however, for if a knot of officers or horse- men collect together in one place they unexpectedly send a shell or shot among them, and now and then do a little mischief to the remains of their own town. They could sweep some of the chosen look-out places with grape, but it is believed they are waiting for a grand collection of Generals, Staff Officers, and Officers, to astonish them all with a broadside some fine day. Mr. Large, Paymaster, Rifle Brigade, was slightly wounded by a sheU ii'om the north side, and his horse was killed at the same time. The French have erected a mortar battery behind Fort Nicholas, with which the}^ shell the Russian working parties. The latter ibrt affords excellent cover, though it is rather avoided, in con- sequence of a popular belief that it is extensively mined, and will go up some fine day with a crowd of distinguished visitors. Li spite of the flames it is intact, and does not in any way justify 190 FIRST FRUITS OP VICTORY. the assertions of those travellers who maintained that the Rus- sian casemated forts would crumble to pieces, or would smother the gunners with smoke. The casemates are open, with fine airy- galleries behind, and the whole building is most admirably and compactly built. Fort Alexander is likewise comparatively speak- ing but little injured, although the mines underneath exploded with a tremendous crash. The walls of the fort are still erect. Fort Paul alone is in perfect ruins. There was an armistice for a few minutes on Tuesday to effect an interchange of letters for the benefit of the prisoners, and to make inquiries respecting missing officers on both sides. The Russian officer who conducted it, and who is supposed to have been the commander of the Vladimir, is said to have expressed the same opinion as the Russian Admiral did on Monday, the 10th inst. — " With this before us," pointing to the ruins of Sebastopol, "peace is foi-ther off' than ever." The Russians have very large parks of artillery on the north side of the har- bour ; and the piles of provisions, materiel, and coal which ai'e visible, show that they do not want the means of carrying on the war, as far as such things are concerned. Many of the guns found here were cast at Carron ; this fact is evident from the words on theii* trunnion heads and breeches Early tliis Aveek the army was agitated by the universal report and the consequent belief that some great expedition would be undertaken forthwith before the troops settled down in their winter quarters. The French made a great demonstration towards Raidar and Aitodor, which led to no result, with the exception of directing the attention of the enemy to the pass fi'om the latter place to the plateau of the Belbek. At length all hope of active operations being commenced against the Russian lines from Bakshiserai to Sebastopol before the winter sets in has been abandoned ; but there is some reason to expect that the advantage offered by Eupatoria as a base for operations will no longer be neglected, and that the allies will act against the Russian rear from that point. It is said that Simpheropol is quite open, and that no field-works or redoubts have been erected for its protection. Every one pays a visit to Sebastopol. The fear of mines has subsided. All day we walk about and watch the Russians. Now and then the soldiers blow themselves up impromptu in the magazines, but, generally speaking, few accidents have occuiTed. SEBASTOfOL IN RUINS. 191 It is not easy to destroy a city, and Titus must have had wonderful engineers if he really razed Jerusalem to the ground. Sebastopol, indeed, is in ruius ; it has been shattered in many places to splinters, as it were, by the iron storm which for many long months has been driven by the fierce breath of gun- powder against it. The retreating enemy have not spared it, and the agency of fire and the shocks of great explosions have been added by them to the devastating etl'ects of cannonade and bombardment, wliich smote down palaces, churches, storehouses, barracks, and stately buildings, as though they were built of cards. But a large portion of Sebastopol remains, in spite of these terrible visitations, and although there is scarcely one house in the place which is uninjured, or one square yard of ground which does not bear the traces of shot or shell, there is enough left to show that it really was a princely city, and that no pains had been spared to render it the queen city of the Euxine. In the course of a year the finest place in the world would look neglected and du-ty, if no steps were taken to keep the streets trim and orderly. The cessation of commerce would permit the grass to grow in the public ways, and it may readily be imagined that the inhabitants of a besieged city could find but little time to preserve the gai'dens and places of re- creation neat and kempt. Grass does, indeed, grow in the streets of Sebastopol, the gardens are overrun with weeds, and the vineyards at the back of the Redan bear grape of a very different nature from that for which they once were famous. The walks are full of rank grass, and the borders of the paths are trodden down by the soldiery. Tv'ednesday, September 19. There has not been any further indication of an advance towards the Belbek — on the contrary, the French are Avith- di'awing a portion of their force, and there is apparently a change of councils and of plans among the allied leaders. The enemy persist in casting up formidable earthworks on the north side, and we look on as we did from September 27 till October 17, 1854, and see them preparing their defences, with the sure conviction that we shall be able to carry them, or sap up to them, or take them in some way or other in a year or two. jMeantime, the weather comes in with a word of its own, and says to our deliberating Generals, " Stop ! as you have waited so long, I wont let you move now." It began to rain to-day soon after twelve o'clock, and the camp speedily looked as 192 FIRST FRUITS Of VICTOKY. gloomy, black, and wretched as it usually does during the winter. The wind, with rare exceptions, accompanies these heavy falls of rain in the Crimea, and it blew to-day iuriously. The ground was rapidly turned into the well-known Sebastopol paste, famous for its adhesive properties, never to be shaken or rubbed off by any amount of scrubbing ; washing is the only operation to which it succumbs. Every one who is obliged to walk forth is hobbling about on two lumps of earth, with large lateral extensions, which form under his feet, fasten to his shoes, and increase in bulli at every step. Now, it is quite impossible for field-pieces to be moved under these circumstances, nor, indeed, would it be an easy matter to marshal cavalry, nor could infantry make any great progress in marching. A light cart, drawn by a stout horse, which had only to carry two empty portmanteaus and a cask of beer, could not get up to the front from Balaklava to-day — a distance of six- and-a-half miles. This fact shows the necessity of making new roads, as well as the imperfections of those which ab-eady exist, or are believed to exist, till a heavy shower destroys all traces of them, and metamorphoses them into something like a sewer-com-se in the Thames at low water. The French militarj' road, made for us by Vinoy's Brigade from Kadikoi, past the Cavaby Camp up to the Col, is in tolerably good order, and has been repaired by the Croats, Eupatorians. &c., but it still requires to be enlarged and much improved before it can meet the exigencies of our winter traffic. A large number of soldiers, not less, I should think, than 1500 in all, has been detached to make new roads and repair* old ones in conjunction with the Ai-my Works Corps. A hitch occurs now and then, which proves that army departments are not readily managed by most people. For example, a strong party of the Guards was marched down one day this week to work on the roads, but when they came to the appointed place there were no tools, no spades, shovels, pickaxes, or barrow^s, and so, after waiting some hours, the men marched bade again. The rail- way is the object of sedulous attention, and will, no doubt, be .soon secured against the effects of winter, but it must not be expected to do too much. There is a very considerable accunmlation of stores at the depot by the Col ; there are also large quantities of forage and of ibod stored up at some of the divisional depots, and the commanding officers of a few regi- ments have stacked the surplus wood, issued for rations of fuel, PREPARATIONS FOR WIXTER. 193 and have got up a tolerable good private stock for the winter, to meet anjr deiiciencies in the rations during the cold weather. During the dog-days the men had each about as much wood or coal issued to them as they would get at Christmas. One or two active Quartermasters-General of Division have laid or are laying down roads from their divisional commissariat depot up to the centre and front of their respective camps. In fact, there is some energy exhibited in preparing for the winter, and, if the huts only ari'ive in time, in the sailing ships in which they have been stowed, no doubt winter will be disarmed of much of its rigour and severity. Improved stoves are desirable — those sent last winter were very expensive, inasmuch as they did not last ; and it would be curious to inquire how many out of the whole quantity supplied were put back into store when summer came. Muchof the warm clothing, many sheepskin coats, boots, &c. were irretrievably injured, and will not last long should they be re-issued this winter. Indeed, there is a little confusion in the store itself, and I know a case where some men of a certain regiment were sent down to get their old coats, and, after a great deal of confusion and of tumbling over bales of clothmg, only one or two of them could be found. Captain Gordon, however, is most active and energetic, and his indefatigable efibrts to reduce this chaos into order begin to be attended' with efl'ect. It was on this day twelve months ago that the allied armies marched from Old Fort, and that the Eussians drew first blood at Boulganak. What an eventful year has since elapsed, and liow fcAv have survived through all our suiferings and our glories ! The old soldiers have disappeared ; in some regiments there are not more than filteen men, in others there are not so many, remaining out of those who moved in magnificent parade to their first bivouac. Those whom the war has swallowed up have not been replaced by better men. Would we could say that they have been succeeded by as good. The Light Division — those steady, noble soldiers of the Rifle Brigade ; the gallant Fusiliers ; the 19th, the 23rd, the 33rd, the 77th, the 8Sth — the men who drew the teeth of that terrible Russian battery on the bloody steeps of the Alma — how few of them are left to think and wonder at the failure in the Redan ! The Second Division, old companions of the Light in hard fighting and in hard work, can scarcely boast that they are what they once were. The Third Division, though singularly freed from VOL. II. 194 FIRST FRUITS OF VICTORY. active participation in any of the great battles or sanguinary struggles of the Avai- has been heavily smitten by sickness, and has borne a large share of the exhausting and harassing duties of the trenches and of the siege, and its old soldiers have been used up, as those of the other corps. The Foui'th Division has earned for itself a high reputation. In the fierce contest of Inkernuinn it won imperishable laurels, which few of the Avinners are left to wear. As to the Guards — those majestic battalions, which sccm'ed the fluttering wings of victory on the Alma, and with stubborn front withstood the sui'ge of Muscovite infantry which rolled up the ravines of Inkermann — disease and battle have done their work but too surely, notwithstanding the respite from the trenches during our wintry spring-time, which was allowed perforce to their rapidly vanisliing columns. Every one feels assured that if the attack on the Redan had been renewed the following morning, the Highlanders and the Third Division must have succeeded, if supported properly by the Guards and the Fourth Division ; and that assurance does not throw the shadow of a shade on the brilliant reputation of the Light Division and the Second Division, but simply rests on the fact that, with the exception of the Guards (in which, however, there is more careful recruiting tlian in other regiments), and of some regiments of the Fourth Division, which were engaged at Inkermann, these battalions have not undergone the hard work and constant labours of the Light and Second Divisions, which have, indeed, been "put to everything" since the beginning of the war. One of the HigUand regiments was sicklj% and lost many men in the winter, but the Brigade has had almost nothing to do except guard the lines at Ealaklava since the battle of the Alma ; and at that battle, owing to its position on the left, and the judicious way in which Su* Colin Campbell moved them up the side of the hill, their loss was very insigni- ficant. The men would have been comparatively fresh; they would have had no recollections of a previous repulse to damp their ardour ; and — but let us discuss the subject no further. At best it is but a discussion on probabilities, and no one can forget that, on the eve of two unsuccessful assaults we were equally sanguine of a favourable result for the morrow. The march of the French cavalry and infantry from Baidar to Kamiesch, where they will embark for Eupatoria, has been retarded by the rain. It is reported that in their recent recon- MEDALS, CLASPS, RIBANDS. 195 Tiaissance, our allies ascertained that the positions of the Russians at JVIangovip, Kaleh, and Aitodor were too strong to be forced. THE FIRST ANNIVEKSAEY OF THE BATTLE OF THE ALMA. September 20. As many of the medals, clasps, and ribands as have been issued to commanding officers were distributed to-day to the various regiments, and on an average there were about ten medals for each company: that, of course, excited dissatis- faction. As to the riband, there is but one opinion, — that it is unbecoming and mesquin to a degree. Men differ as to the merits of the medal, but a large majority abuse it, and the clasps are likened generally to the labels on public- house wine bottles. The proceedings at the distribution were tame and spiritless. A regiment was drawn up, with the commanding officer in front ; beside him stood a sergeant with a big bag. " John Smith" was called. " Here ;" " Step forward," and up came John Smith to the Colonel, who dipped his hand into the bag, took out a small parcel, and said, " John Smith, you were at Alma, Balaklava, and Inkermann ?" " Yes." Tlie Colonel handed liim the parcel, and John Smitli retired to his place in the ranks, carrying the said packet in his hand, which he opened at the " dismiss ;" and this was all, so far as I could see, that was made out of a proceeding which could have been rendered in the highest degree interesting and exciting to the soldier. The Light Division, I believe, paraded and received their medals and clasps from Lord W. Paulet en masse, with some show of ceremony. Perhaps the John Smith alluded to never saw a shot tired except at the distance of several miles. He might have been on peaceful guard at Lord Eaglan's head- quarters on the 5th of November ; yet he wears the clasp for Inkermann. He might have been engaged in no more sanguinary work than that of killing oxen and sheep for the division in the commissariat slaughter-house, and yet he will show oa his breast " Crimea" (of course), " Alma," " Bala- klava," " Inkermann." Our Avretched system of bestowing decorations on classes, and sowing them broadcast over a whole army, deprives them of much of their real value. What can a survivor of the Light Cavalry charge think of the clasp ■" Balaklava" when he sees whole divisions of infantry soldiers o2 19G FIRST FRUITS OF VICTORY. rearing the same on their breasts ? The subject is too larsjje to enter upon at present, but it is much discussed and canvassed, not bj"- those who receive tlieir decorations without deserving them, but by the men who really were engaged in great battles from which the chances of war kept others away. This great anniversary was celebrated enthusiasticallythrough- out the army. There were many "Alma dinners" in the regi- ments, among both officers and men, and music and song kept the camp awake till long after midnight. Many a memory of the dead was revived, many an old wound re-opened, at these festive meetings. The French also had their banquets and festivities. They had a grand ceremony early in the morning — a Missa Sole)inis for the repose of the dead. Indeed, they have had some splendid military spectacles lately, but one never hears of them in this vast camp till his attention is aroused by the echoes of the 101 guns with which they are brought to a close. General Pelissier has been made a IMarshal of France, and has received from Her Majesty the Grand Cross of the Bath. Of the latter order he seems exceedingly proud, and he has on several occasions signed his name " Pelissier, G.C.B." General Simpson has not as yet received any decoration or honour from home, but the Emperor of the French has con- ferred on him the rare distinction of the Grand Cross of the Legion of Honom*. The proceedings of the Eussians during the day were in- scrutable. They were assuredly verj'' busy in removing, by means of military waggons and store carts, quantities of pro- visions and stores from the large magazine by the water's edge, which is nearly opposite to Fort Nicliolas, and conveying them over the ridge towards the Belbek. Yet, as if to demonstrate that these movements arc by no means indicative of an intention to leave, they are forming a prodigious depot to the north-east of Scbastopol, in the direction of the Belbek, and not far from a strong earthwork deserving the name of a redoubt or fort. The piles of sacks and bags, stacked up in a j)yramidal form, are plainly discernible with the naked eye, bat it has not j'et been ascertained that the (;arts which are employed in removing the stores from the north side unload at this new c?e/5w/. On the contrar}', it seems as if carts from the interior came down from Simpheropol, and deposited stores at this locality, which must be somewhere in the nciQ-hbourhood of Kamischli. The RUSSIAN MOVEMENTS, 197 carts from the north side, which are now apparently occupied in carrying awaji- provisions, keep along the road past the citadel and along the top of the ridge near the sea, and when they descend that ridge they are lost to sight, and do not reappear. If they were going to the new depot they would keep far more to our right, and take the road which is nearly parallel to the northern side of the roadstead of Sehastopol. These carts arc to he seen not only at the great storehouse between Fort Catherme and Hollandia, hut at the citadel and at Fort Constantine, and it would seem as if they came empty and went away heavily laden. Their number is endless. They are not creaking lumbering arabas drawn by oxen, but light well-appointed military carriages, driven by soldiers, and ex- cellentlj^ horsed, as is rendered quite apparent by the speed with which they travel when a rocket or a bomb from the south side is sent after them. The large magazine which the enemy seems most solicitous to empty, consists of a very spacious pile, of buildings of dark grey stone, with small windows, and is not un- like a prison or penitentiar}'. The sides form a square, but we cannot ascertain what the yard in the centre contains. There is a quay before it, along which horses, carts, and men rush at full speed whenever the French take it into their heads to amaoy them. One gateway opens on the quay, and there is another on each of the i-emaining sides of the quadrangle, ^\■ith the exception of that on the north. The buildings are two stories high, and are roofed Avith tiles, Avhich are already beginning to look much tattered under the attentions of the French shells. Some dis- tance behind the storehouse are prodigious quantities of coal, piled to the height of a man or thereabouts, and intersected with walks, or passages, through which we can see the soldiers going to and fro. The coals are arranged sj-mmotrically in squares, and at one corner there is either a large weighing machine or a small crane. As yet the Eussians have not touched these coals. Fm'ther away to the left the enemy have a small arsenal or store containing cannon and shot, with possibly in addition several thousand guns. Besides the main stream of carts there are always many divergent currents and small strings oi vehicles proceeding between various stations on the north side and IMacIvenzie's Farm. Thej'' travel along ditferent paths through the brushwood, all of which communicate with the detached camps spread over the face of the slopes between Inkermann and the Belbek. The Russian Donnybrook Fair 198 FIRST FRUITS OF VICTORY. has disappeared ; it liad been i^radually ineltiiig away since the- 8th and 9th of this month, and now all that is left of it is a few tents and dismantled huts. On the hill-side near the citadel they had estahlislied a sutlers' camp, like our own at Kadikoi, hut much more extensive, and this fair used to swarm with soldiers, officers, pedestrians, and cavaliers, — carts and arabas, and women and drochskies, from dawn till evening. The police of the place seemed to be excellent, and, as it was out of the range of our shot and of anything but of some wonderfully erratic rockets, the scene was gay enough. Possibly the burnt- out shopkeepers of Scbastopol resorted to this spot and sought to estahlisli a small commerce there. They certainly had custom enougli ; if the payment was equally liberal and sure, they could not complain much. Now our shells can almost reach this spot, and our rockets from below the Malakhofi" (command the fair from end to end, and so the Muscovs have abandoned it, that is to say, aU excepting some hardy sutlers and a few cantiniers have retired to some spot better suited to the tranquil pursuits of commerce. The French have established mortars at the western angle of Fort Nicholas, whence they throw bombs at the magazines and at the working parties and convoys. Our indefatigable allies have also placed a rocket battery on the Karabelnaia, on the slope of the Malakhoff, and these alarming but uncertain missiles fly far over the magazines and burst near the roads among the trains of carts, and kick up a dust in the graveyards. They have also constructed a mortar battery behind the aque- duct in the ravine at the back of the Malakhoff. The rumours of a move are dying gi'adually away, and the army has made up its mind to remain quietly in winter quarters. The preposterous on (Lit is that the Generals have sent home for instructions. To whom ? Can a campaign be played out, like a game of chess, by electric telegraph ? September 21. This stillness, Avhich is almost startling after the mighty tumults which have broken on our ears for a long j^ear, still continues. Tliere is not a sound to break the silence in the camps except the boom of an occasional gun from Fort Constan- tine or the dull report of the French mortars. The fleet — what good is it here, now that the Hussians have sunk and destroyed their ships, and that the Admirals tacitly admit that they cannot force a passage ? — the fleet has even given up practising, and RUSSIAN TACTICS. 199 the mortar-boats jjet steam up and let it off ag-ain, and that is all. At daybreak this morninf^ I saw through the mist on the Mackenzie ridji^e a numerous line of watchfires, and later in the early lij^^ht a sti'ong column of the Russian infantry was visible in bivouac to our right of the telegraph station and to the left of the Spur Battery, near the Mackenzie road. Part of these marched away agiiin in the course of the day. The rest re- main in the same place and are busy hutting themselves, an operation which they perform with great skill and alacrity. They were encamped in a sort of chapparell, and they have abeady cleared a good bit of it and converted the branches into the sides and coverings of theu- huts. Their arms were piled when they iirst arrived at the bivouac, but three hours later the glistening barrels and bayonets had disappeared, having possibly been placed in some dry and secm-e place. The recent heavy rains will fill all the wells and swell the water-courses of this disti'ict, and it will no longer be untenable by large bodies of men. Having secured their right flanlc by the very formidable earthworks and batteries which we are permitting the enemy even now to erect, in addition to then- former defences and their regular forts, the Russians will no doubt direct the bulk of their army to protect theu- centre resting on the Tchernaya and Mackenzie, and their left at Aitodor, and on the Upper Belbek to Bakshiserai. They seem prepared to hold this extensive line, and we appear at present by no means ready or willing to attack it. As the allies can scarcely spare men enough to send to Eupatoria, and thence to march on Simpheropol, or to force the Russian position on the Belbek by a moving corps to operate against them from the north, and as there is no apparent intention of attacking them from Inkermann or the Tchernaya, this dead lock may last longer than we think, and. is likely enough not to be relaxed this winter. The quantity of stores removed by the Russians from the north side to their new depot shows that they are not in want of provisions, unless they take the trouble to caiTy dummy sacks and fill their carts with " make-believes." It may and must be difficult for them to feed their army, but, somehow or other, they do so. They left considerable quantities of food behind them Vl\ the city ; large flocks and herds (many of which, however, may be araba oxen) stud the plains near the citadel. The soldiers who fell into the hands of the Sardinians and French on the 16th of August carried abundance of bread and spirits, and we hear they had meat and £00 FIRST FRUITS OF A'ICTORY. plenty of everything except water, when they came down to attack the allies. It" matters come to the Avorst, the stoiiiaoh of the ]\Iujik soldier is as well able to dii;;est araba ox beef as the stomachs of the hungry Highlanders, who did not despise that very muscular fibre one day after our landing at Gallipoli; so that, altogether, I am not so very sanguine as to think the liussians will be forced to abandt>n their ])osition on the approach of winter. The country around tliem will supply abundance of wood for fuel, and they are skilled in making- comfortable and warm underground huts. The enemy, there- fore, will be as well housed as the allies, supposing the latter succeed in getting up huts before the winter sets in. " Leaving them alone" will never drive a Kussian army out of the field; the only thing to do that is the French and English bayonet, and plenty of fighting. About noon to-day a flag of truce came in from the fleet, and •was met near Tort Constantine by a Russian boat. The con- ference did not last very long, and its object has not yet tran- spired. The French mortars and guns were not silent while the flags were flying. Their mortar battery, which is protected by the walls of Fort Xicholas, keeps up a constant fire of bombs against the quadrangular storehouse. In addition to the fire which their shells caused inside yesterday, the French sent two bombs through the roof of the building to-da3% and they are rapidlj'' defacing its external Avails. Their practice is very variable, owing probably to the imperfect manufacture of theii* shells, -which are frequently of unequal Aveight, and are consequently of uncertain range. In the large shells there is sometimes a variation of 31b. or 41b. in Aveight and some Avhich Avere lent to us Avere found to be almost useless on that ac- comit. Their battery behind the Malakhoff" is principally du'ected against the roads near Fort Constantine and Fort Catherine. Three or fom* times in the day Fort Constantine gives a sullen reply to the allies, and the 12-gun battery at Inkcrmann throws an odd shot at the Frencth battery of the 31alakhott'. The Eussians, however, look as if thej^ intended to woi'k steadily at their eartluvorlvs, and some fine day, no doubt, they Avill open Avith a roar of cannon in their old style, all along the Avaterside from Fort Constantine to Inkermann. Large con- voy's passed in and out of the Ibrts to-day, but Avith Avhat they Avere laden could not be ascertained. Their coal deput is un- touched and undiminished. It was amusinsr to Avatch the cool- COOLNESS OF THE RUSSIANS. 201 ness of the fellows at work inside the larjjje magazine to-day. Some of them stood in the doorway by the waterside to look out for the mortars. " Bom" ^^oes one, and the thick white smoke ilies upwards in a circling pillar, marked here and there with whirling rings. " T-M'it ! twit! twit!" the bomb whistles aloft, the sound becoming fainter and fainter as it leaves us, till it begins to grow on the ear of the gentleman in grey, who is ou the watch at the other side ; he pops in his head, and at his sum- mons, like rabbits scuttling from a ferret-haunted warren, a swarm of his comrades appear just as the bomb, with a prodi- gious crash, and knocking up a cloud of tiles, timber, stones, and dirt, rushes through the roof, and bursts inside ; the fellows are down on their faces in a moment, and the bits flyover them, and strike the earth ftir inland, or dash the water of the harbour into foam. Then the " Eooskies" get up, and return placidly to their work inside till the next bomb comes dangerously near. If it does not fall inside the building, or is not likely to slip down on them through the roof, they never stir. When the French discovered the column of men near the telegraph this morning they opened upon it with romid shot, and I saw the earth torn up close to the men, but the Russians never turned round from their camp fires. They are assuredly a stolid infantry, and, if thej' had elan and dash with their other unde- niably good qualities as soldiers, they would not be second to the warriors of any nation in the world; and here I may observe that we might with much profit take a lesson li'om our enemies in a matter which has a great influence on the mind of the private soldier. No man likes to fall into the power of his enemies, or would willingly leave his sepulture in their hands, rude though he knows it must be when performed by his com- rades. The Muscovite Generals cannot be accused of an}' great regard for their killed and wounded, but they have certainly much respect for the prejudices and feelings of then- soldiers. We have over and over again been astonished at the wonderful way in which the dead and wounded disappeared after the repulse of a sortie in which there were probably 2U0 of the enemy put kors de combat. Except the dead and Avounded left in om- trenches, none were ever to be seen after such contests when day broke. A soldier of the 68th (M'Geevor), who was taken prisoner in a sortie some months ago, and who has since returned to his regi- ment after a long and (to others) interesting march in Russia, explains the mystery, such as it was. On the night alluded to 202 FIRST FRUITS OF VICTORY. it could not be ascertained -what the Russian loss was, but it was certain that the fii'ing had been very heavy, and the work very warm while it lasted. As this man was being carried to the rear after a stout resistance, he observed that there were hun- dreds of soldiers without weapons between the reserves and the column of sortie, and that these men were employed exclusively in removing the dead and wounded, who would otherwise have been left in the hands of the British. The most extensive pro- vision we make in such cases is sending one, or at most two, litters to a regiment, except when the ambulances go out for a pitched battle. Perhaps Ave do not calculate on leaving our ground, but the best general is always prepared for retreat as well as for victory, and if ever we should be placed in the same circumstances as the Eussians have been, it wo\ild be advisable to follow their example. About one o'clock to-day the fleet began to perform a variety of evolutions which were quite enough to craze any landsman who might A\ash to unravel them. Some ships went one way, some another; two or three steamers stai'ted oif straight for Eupa- toria, others rushed at full speed for Kamiesch; the French floating battery made a feint of going in to attack the forts, then stopped short and blew ofl' steam. Sir Edmund Lyons weighed anchor and made a great number of signals. Much smoke came out of the funnels and steam out of the pipes; but after looking at the vessels tmsting and twining and tm-ning and circUng for some time, and finding myself becoming utterly bewildered, I ceased to gaze seaward any longer. The affau" ended, I believe, by the majority of the vessels sailing towards Cape Aiga. It is no harm to state that om* ever-active allies the French are constructing a breaching battery between Fort Nicholas and the ruins of Fort Alexander. This is intended to act against Fort Constantine, and will be placed in such a position that the enemy can only avail themselves of three or fom* embrasures in reply. The statement can do no injury, because the Russians see the French at work on the battery, know its position, and for what it is intended, and fire at the working paiiies from time to time- Besides, the battery will be quite ready before this letter can reach England. The Russians have placed an enormous quantity of sand-bags and earth on the roof of Fort Constantine, and have m.ade regular traverses and embrasures for the guns formerly mounted there en harhette. Some of the boats of the fleet crept in a night or two ago, got through the booms and marine TROOPS FOR EUPATORIA. 203 clievaux defi'ise, and came right round to the Dockyard Creek. The Russians also steal about the harbour at night in their row- boats and flats, a number of which are in the creeks and up the bend of the Soukhaya. Captain Chapman, of the 20th Eegiment, Avas buried to-day. For some time past he had been acting as Assistant Engineer under his distinguished relative, Colonel Chapman, R.E., and he had not long retiirned from sick-leave at Therapia, when he was called upon to take his share in the assault on the 8th, during which he was wounded in the knee : of that wound the gallant and lamented officer died yesterday. Scptemhcr 22,10 a.m. Tlie fleet, which sailed and steamed round towards Ealaklava yesterday, is now returning. Several of the vessels, which appear to be full of troops, are on their way towards Eupatoria, and others are passing by Fort Constantine, which has directed some shot and shell at the nearest. The 17th French Regiment is on the march from Ivamiesch towards Inkermann. Two fires were observed on the north side last night, and it is likely the Rias- sians are consuming their old stores. 204 COMFORTABLE QUAKTERS. CHAPTER. XX. COMFOETABLE QUARTEP.S. JLinoeuvrcs of the fleet — Consultation between the naval and military authorities at head-quarters — Strenartli and elliciency of tlie Turks at Kujiatoria — French, Enp^Iisli, and Sardinian Cavalry — Keeessity for immediate operations — Favourable prospects for an expedition — Im- patience of tiic sailors for active employment — Their disappointment iu not taking part in the final assault upon Sebastopol — Result of the late cruise — Captain Sherard Osborne's hazardous feat — lio\v the Russians obtain supplies — Ko sign of a Russian retreat — T!ie Anjjlo- Freuch Commission — The spoils of war — Xumber of guns and small arms — Principle pm-sued in dividing tlie spoils — General Windham's stafl" — Is the North side to be invested ? — Important works in course of erection — Balaklava strangely altered — Flour — Daily consumiition of corn by the horses, mules, and ponies in tlie English army — The Duke of Newcastle in the Crimea — Huts — Healthy condition of the English troops — Jlilitary education — Lack of excitement — Cathcart's Hill and its associations — The cemetery — Its memorials — Lieutenant Tyron's grave-stone — General Goldie's tomb — Inscriptions — General Strang- ways and Captain Edward Stanley's tombs — Sir George Cathcart's monument — Lieutenant-Colonel Seymour's tomb-stone — Jlonument to Sir John Campbell — Sir 11. Newman's sarcophagus — Deaths of Colonel Gough and Lieutenant Kerr — Fimeral processions — Invalids. BEroRE Sebastopol, Scpte7)-J)er 25. The fleet wliich sailed towards Balaklava on Friday turned back and passed by Sebastopol, and proceeded thence to Eupatoria on Saturday, returned to Kamiescli on Sunday after an immense consumption of coal and production of black smoke, and with utter want of success so far as regards the supposed object of their curious manoeuvres, which is stated to have been to attract the attention of the enemy from their present position to meet some imaginary demonstration in their rear. Yesterday Sir Edmund Lyons and Admiral Stewart, with several post-captains, attended at head-quarters, and it is under- stood that thej', in connuon with the whole licet, are most anxious "to do something" ere the season is too far advanced for naval operations. At Eupatoria they found no less than 31,000 Turkish infantry in a fine state of discipline, and in per- fect readiness for any military service. These soldiers were all reviewed and inspected on the occasion, and officers of rank, English and French, wore alike gratified by the disciplined THE SAILORS LONG FOR ACTION. 205 alertness and efficiency of these neglected and almost useless infantry. It is difficult to imagine that these Tui-ks could not aid us materially in driving the enemy from Sebastopol if strengthened by an English division and two French divisions, which could be easily spared from this army at present. More- over, they might be aided by all our cavalry, which arc now in verj^ excellent condition, and are, nevertheless, of no earthly service at Kadikoi or Baidar. Between French, English, and Sardinians ■we could send a force of at least 5500 sabres to the north side of the Alma, which certainly would have nothing to fear from any Eussian cavalry in the Crimea. Colonel McMurdo has collected more than 10,000 horses and mules for the service of the Land Transport Corps, and it would be very strange indeed if he could not spare enough of them to supply and carry food for an expe- ditionary column during a week or ten days, nor is there any reason why he should not be able to aid the French intendance in the field, should they requu-e our assistance. The allied fleet could embai-k and land the whole force in forty-eight hours, or, at all events, in sixty hours, at any points between Balaklava or Kamiesch and Eupatoria. All our gallant sailors, from the Admirals downwards, feel acutely the diffi- culties and ingloriousness of the position in which they have been placed. They had hoped, indeed, to co-operate with the land forces in the attack on Sebastopol on the 8th of September ; but the violent wind and high sea which sprang up early on the morning of that day did not allow them to raise an anchor; indeed such a large fleet could not have been set in motion in the bad w^eather that prevailed, and directed against the narrow entrance o'' Sebastopol, without the certainty of collision and the risk of fatal confusion. Orders were given the night before to have steam up early and to serve the dinners for the crews at eleven o'clock, and it was fondly hoped the men Avould have been engaged soon after noon. Thej" were destined, however, to be again spectators of the struggle. In the recent short cruise to and from Eupa- toria the fleet could not discern any traces of the Eussians north of the Alma. They could not make out a convoy, or even a single tent, all along the coast and the adjacent country, which can be swept by the telescope for several miles inland. It woidd seem, indeed, as if the Eussians did not use the Perekop road to any great extent, or that their convoys made a detour towards the east in order to avoid meeting with any flying 206 COMFORTABLE QUARTERS. column from Eupatoria. Possibly tlicy send most of their sup- plies down bj' the Tchongar road, and there is every reason to believe that the Eussians have established another route between Perekop and Tchongar for the purpose of advance or retreat. I have heard that some time back Captain Sherard Osborne with one man passed up the Straits of Genitchi in a punt, and pushed along through the rushes in the pestilential salt marshes up to Tchongar-bridge, which he observed minutely, and that he saw enough to satisfj^ him that an immense proportion of the Rus- sian supplies were conveyed into the Crimea by that route. Perekop is quite safe from the sea side. The " Spitfire," sur- vejdng vessel, Captain Spratt, made several attempts, but was not able to get very near the land. It is believed that, to make assurance doubly sure, the enemy take the road south between the Staroe and Crasnoe lakes, instead of going between the sea- coast and Staroe. The route becomes, however, a matter of indiflerence if we are not to make any offensive movement, and, although some people hug the hope that the Czar will not be able to feed his army diu-ing the winter, the quantity of stores piled up on the north side is, to my mind, a guarantee for their disappointment. There is no sign of any present intention on the part of the enemy to abandon their position on the north side. The celerity with which they throw up and finish the most formidable-look- ing redoubts on the land and sea sides is astonishing. They are admirable diggers, and I believe it was ]\Iarshal Turenne who used to say that as many battles were won by the spade as by the musket. The fii'e across the roads increases in frequency and severity every day, and we have to record the loss of two men in the Buffs and a few trifling casualties from the enemy's guns, but the mortars of the I'rench must have caused serious injury and impediment to the Russian workmen, and have greatly damaged their magazines. The Anglo-French Commission sits daily, and is busily em- ployed apportioning the spoils of war found in the town. The number of guns of all kinds captmed exceeds 4000 ; immense quantities of small arms have been caiTled ofi' by the soldiers and sold, but there are still piles of them remaining. As the Rus- sians lost 18,000 men between the morning of the 5th and the evening of the 8th of September, it is likelj^ that we captured at least 18,000 stand of arms, not to mention tlie muskets in store, «tc., which belonged to the men placed hors de combat during the THE GOVERNOR OF SEBASTOPOL, 207 pi-eccdinf!; part of the sie^e. The commission acts on the prin- ciple of dividing' the spoils in proportion to the number of men actually composing the strength of the respective annies in the camps before Sebastopol. Their labours were interrupted the other day by a Russian shell, which scarcely gave them time to adjudicate on the proprietorship of its splinters, for it burst as soon as it had fallen through the roof of the building in which they were sitting. If the Russians are spiteful, they will open iire some fine day on the town and make it too hot to hold us ; indeed, the Buffs are to be withdrawn for the present, and the strength of the French in the towri has been diminished, as a useless display of force only attracted the fire of the enemy's batteries. Brigadier-General Windham, our Governor of Sebas- topol, is assisted by an active little staff. He has lost the ser- vices of Captain Rowlands, 41st Regiment, one of the Town- Majors of Sebastopol, who is appointed Brigade-Major to the 2nd Brigade of the Second Division. Captain Lewes, of the 3rd Regiment, has succeeded as Aide-de-Camp to Brigadier-General Windham, in lieu of that gallant young officer. Lieutenant Swire, of the 17th Regiment, who was very severely wounded on the morning of the 8th. The duties of the Governor are not very onerous, and the population of his district is essentially migratory and nomadic. Five hundred artillerymen were added to the garrison of the town some days ago. Are we to attack the north side or not ? If so, when do we begin ? We may stay in our present position till the crack of doom and the Rus- sians will remain in theirs, and the war may thus go on for half a century. The great road from Kadikoi to the camp gets on but slowly, but a really fine work is in course of execution. Many men are employed in cutting a kind of canal for the waters of the streamlet which runs through the flat, marshy land close by the railway between Kadikoi and the top of the harbour, and floods it after heavy rains. This work will tend materially to increase the strength and efficiency of the railway in winter, and will carry off the surface water which turned the whole of this marsh into a lake in that inclement season of the year. The Sardmians are at work on the railway from the WoronzofF road to the main line at Kadikoi ; but our engineers declare that by taking unnecessary pains in elaborating, polishing, and finishing off trenches and cuttings they lose valu- able time. The French have not yet done anything towards the execution of the line laid down by Mr. Campbell from the Col de 208 COMFORTABLE QUARTERS. Balaklava to Kamiescli. It is creditable to Mr. Beatty and Mv. Campbell's skill tliat the engineers of the Army Works Corps have not been able to devise a better line for their road than that which these gentlemen laid down I'or the tramway, and the new road is to rnn parallel with the tramway the whole of its course. Balaklava has ceased to exist. There are only some dozen of the original houses left scattered here and there amid iron storehouses, mountainous piles of wood, heaps of coal, of corn, of forage, of shot and shell, and of stores multitudinous. The liarbour is trenched upon by new qxiays and landing-places, and two long wooden jetties project far intp its waters at the shallow head of the harbour, and render good service in taking the jn-essure of the quays at the waterside. And yet, Avith all this huge accumulation of stores, such a ravenous devouring animal is an army that there are some fears that we shall run short of fuel and of flour during the winter. It is astounding to hear that not a sack of flour fit for our purposes can be found in the East, and Sir (xeorge Maclean, the indefatigable Commissary- General, has been obliged to telegraph to England for 4000 bags of that necessary article. In a few days the issue of bread will probably cease, and the soldiers will be obliged to go back to biscuit till fresh supplies are forthcoming. At the present moment t/ie quantity of cam issued daily for horses, mules, and pordes in the English army is not less than 2SO,O0Olb. The fine weather will enable us to clear the quays in Balaklava, and to collect stores at our divisional depots, but steps must speedily be taken to protect these stores from the efl'ects of rain and storm. There is a sad dearth of news, and very little stirring in the British camp. The I)uke of Newcastle went to Eupatoria on board one of the ships, and has just returned. His Grace intends to leave the camp, and direct his steps homewards in a few days. It is almost a pity that he cannot remain till the winter sets in, or, at all events, return during the bad weather, for he has had very little experience of the hardships of camp life, and he may still believe that the sketches which were sent home to England when om- army was pei'ishing in the trenches, or in their miserable muddy tents, were surcharged with gloomy colours. Notwithstanding the cessation of the most arduous duties of the army, and the improvement, or rather the creation of roads, the teachings of experience, and all the efforts of the authorities, I believe there will be much hardship and sufTermg, HEALTHY STATE OF THE ARMY. 209 incidental, and inseparalile, perhaps, from the position of our army during the winter, even if all the men are hutted. At present not a twentieth part of the soldiers possess huts. It will be hard work to make up lor lost time even should the huts arrive soon, and our officers are taking an exceedingly wise step in sending into Sebastopol for wood for building purposes, whilst it is still to be had. An immense train of carts, waggons, &c., W'Cnt down this morning to the city to get wood out of the ruined and dilapidated houses. A very comfortable double tent can be made for the winter, but single canvas affords but a feeble protection against the blasts which sweep over these dreary steppes, with the thermometer at 10 degrees. Many of the officers are hutted, or have sunk semi-subterranean resi- dences, and the camp is studded all over with the dingy roofs, which at a distance look much like an aggregate of molehills. The soldiers are exceedinglj- health}-, and we have escaped, thank God, the diseases of the Crimean September in a wonderful manner. In order to prevent ennui or listlessness after the great excitement of so many months in the trenches, the Generals of Division are taking pains to drill our veterans, and to renew the long-forgotten pleasures of parades, field-days, and inspec- tions. In all parts of the open ground about the camps the visitor may see men with Crimean medals and Balaklava and Inkermann clasps, practising goose step or going through exten- sion movements, learning, in fact, the A B C of their military education, though they have aU'eady seen a good deal of fighting and soldiering. Still there must be periods when the most inveterate of martinets gets tired, and now the soldier, having nothing else to do, avails himself of the time and the money to indulge in the delights of the canteens. Brigade and divisional field-daj's fill up the week with parades and regimental inspec- tions. Eoad-making occupies some leisure hours, but the officers have very little to do, and find it difficult to kill time, riding about ♦Sebastopol, visiting Balaklava, foraging at Kamiesch, or hunting about for quail, which are occasionallj', after the north wind has blown, found in swarms all over the steppe, and form most grateful additions to the mess table. There is no excitement in front: the Eussians remain immoveable in their j)Osition at lilackenzie's Farm. The principal streets of Sebastopol have lost the charm of novelty and possession. Even Cathcart's-hill is deserted, except by the " look-out officer" for the day, or by a few wandering strangers and visitors. VOL. II. p 210 COMFORTABLE QUARTERS. In times to come this Catlicart's-liill will be a chosen terminus of Saxon pilgrimage. Whether the traveller beholds from its hnmble parapet the fan- aspect of the Imperial city, guarded by threefold mightier batteries than now, or sits upon the broken wall to gaze upon the ruins of Sebastopol, he must, if lie has anj- British blood in his veins, regai'd with emotion that little spot which encloses all that was mortal of some of the noblest soldiei's who ever sprang irom our warrior race. He will see the site of those tedious trenches where the strong man waxed weak day after day and the sanguine became hopeless, and where the British soldier fought through a tei'rible winter with privation, cold, frost, snow, and rain, more terrible and deadly than the fire of the enemy. With the Eedan, the MalakhofF, the Quarries, the Mamelon, Gordon's Attack, Chapman's Attack, under his eyes, he will revive with the aspect of the places where they stood the memories of this great struggle, and in his mind the incidents of its history will be renewed. How many more of our gallant officers this cemetery may hold it is impossible to say ; it is too fuU already. It is a parallelogram of about forty yards long by thirty broad, formed by the base of a ruined wall, which inight in former days have marked the lines of a Tartar fort, or have been the first Russian redoubt to watch over the infancy of Sebastopol. Although many a humble tumulus indicates to the eye of affection the place where some beloved comrade rests till the last reveil, the care and love of friends here and at home have left memorials in solid stone of most of those whose remains are resting in this spot. The fu-st grave towards the fi-ont and west of the Cemetery consists of a simple mound of earth. I know not whose remains lie below. The second is marked by a simple slab, with the following inscription : — " Sacred to the memory of Lieutenant H. Trj'on, Rifle Brigade, killed in action on the 20th of November, 1854." He was a thorough soldier, brave, cool, and resolute, and in the teri'ible crisis of lukermann he used a rifle with more deadly certainty and success than any of liis men. In the struggle for the " Ovens" or " Quarries," on the 20th of November, in which a small body of the Rifle Brigade dislodged a force of the enemy much greater than their own, he displayed such gallantry that General Canrobert x)aid him the rare honour of a special mention in the next " General Order of the Day" for the French army. Next to his repose the remains of a lamented officer. The stone records his name, " Sacred to the memory of Brigadier-General Thomas Leigh MEMORIALS OF THE BRAVE. 211 Goldie, commanding the first Brigade of the 4th Division of the British army, Lieutenant-Colonel of the 57th Eegiment, who fell at Inkermann, November 5, 1854." No. 4 is a rude cros.s of stone, without mark or name. The 5th grave is distinguished by a stone cross at the feet, and at the head is a slab with an ornamented top, beneath which is written, " Sacred to the memory of Brigadier-General Fox Strangways, killed in action November 5, 1854." A few lines in Russian ask the Christian forbearance of our enemies upon our departure for the bones of one whom they would have admired and loved had they known him. No. 6 is conspicuous by a large tombstone, with an ornamental cross at the top, and some simple efforts of the chisel at the sides and base. Come and read ! " Here lieth the mo'"' u remains of Captain Edward Stanley, 57th Eegiment, killed at the battle of Inkermann, November 5, 1854, to whose memory this stone is erected by the men of his company — ' Cast down but not destroyed,' 2 Corinthians, iv. 9." Who does not look with respect on the tombs of these poor soldiers, and who does not feel envy for the lot of men so honom-ed ? There are fourteen other graves in the same row, of which only one is identified. Sir George Cathcart's resting-place is marked by a very fine monument, for which his widow has expressed her thanks to those who raised it to the memory of their beloved commander. There is an inscription upon it commemorating the General's services, and the fact that he served with the Russian armies in one of their most memorable campaigns — the date of his un- timely and glorious death, and an inscription in the Russian language stating who and what he was who reposes beneath. In the second row to the east there are two graves, without any inscription on the stones, the third is marked by a very hand- some circular pillar of hewn stone, surmounted by a cross, and placed upon two horizontal slabs. On the pillar below the cross in front is this inscription — " To Lieutenant-Colonel C. F. Sey- mour, Scots Fusilier Guards, killed in action, November 5, 1854;" beneath these words are a cross sculptured in the stone and the letters "I. H. S.;" and a Russian inscription on the back, requesting that the tomb may be saved fi-om desecration. At the foot of the tomb there is an elaborately carved stone lozenge surmounting a slab, and on the lozenge is engraved the crest of the deceased, with some heraldic bird springing from, the base of a coronet, with the legend " Foy pour devoir, C.F.S. Mt. 30." How many an absent friend would have mourned p2 212 COMFORTABLE QUARTERS. around this tomb ! Close at hand is a handsome monument to Sir John Campbell, than Avhom no soldier was ever more re- gretted or more beloved by those serving under him ; and not far apart in another row is a magnificent sarcophagus in black Devonshire marble, to the memory of Sir R. Kewman, of the Grenadier Guards, who also fell at Inker mann. With all these memorials of death behind us, the front wall at Cathcart's- hill has ever been a favourite spot for gossips and spectators, and saj'ers of jokes, and raconteurs of botis mots, or such, jettx d'esprit as find favour in military circles. It has now lost the attraction of position and retains only its graver, more melan- choly, and more natural interest. I regret to add, that every day adds t^"" the list of those who have died of their wounds. Lieutenant-Colonel Gough, of the 33rd, a gallant soldier, who was wounded at the Alma through the chest, and who came out here in bad health, expired of the severe wounds he received on the 8th ; and Lieutenant Kerr, of the 30th, has also succumbed. The funeral processions, the strains of the Dead March, remind us that war has not ceased, and that it is not long since we were engaged in a terrible struggle with an unflinching and desperate enemy. Many of the wounded are, I grieve to say, in a very precarious state, but as there are most extraordinary cases, where the surgeons utterly despaired, stiU going on favourably, let no one banish hope who has a friend or relative to care for. Sometimes, but rarely, a slight wound tm'us out fatal, and the most dangerous wounds heal ; and even the most extensive injuries are not always deadly. It is certain that Lieutenant- General Markham is going home ; his health is much impaired, and he feels no longer equal to the duties of a divisional general. The great rapidity with which he hastened from India to the Crimea laid the seeds of disease and suffering which the anxieties of command out here have developed, and he leaves a stage on which it was expected he would have been no second-rate or inconsiderable actor, amid the regrets of the army. It is probable that Major-General Garrett, fonnerly of the 46th Regiment, will succeed him in the command of the Second Division, and that Brigadier- General Windham will not remain in command of the English portion of Sebastopol. September 24. If there is any Intention on the part of the Commanders- in-Chief to make any use of the short autumnal season, or second RUMOURS OF PEACE. 213 summer, or whatever else the few weeks of fine weather which precede the Crimean winter may be called, it is so close a secret that its execution will cause lively dissatisfaction and great discomfort, especially among the "hutters" and "the great hutting interest." Men have made up their minds not only to rest, but to peace, and a real bon mot of the Duke of Newcastle, to the ejfect that there will be peace before Christmas, is in every one's mouth. There are rumours in camp to the efiect that a short and simple letter from head- quarters in Downing- street, vid electric telegraph, contained instructions to spare the docks of Sebastopol, and to leave the public buildings untouched. The cannon-ball and shell have flown faster than the lightning, and these stately objects of solicitude are all in ruins. 7 P.M. The old sounds of the siege are renewed. There is a gun every minute from the north side or from the south, and fair promise that the duel will last for months to come at the present rate of exchange. 7'30. The heavy beat of the guns has died away, the bugles have sounded, and the whole camp is still. In the briglit moonlight the rows of white tents shine clearl}' and taper away in long perspective to such a distance that they seem to form a screen of snowy canvas, which is illuminated by countless lights. The French bands are playing in their remote encampments, find there is a strange jargon of English and French music, and through it all the sad strains of Handel's Saul are floating, as the soldiers bear some deceased officer to his long home ; then sounds of carousing and drinking choruses are heard ; the guns wake up once more, and their heavy voices silence every other noise. Stillness returns again, and so we pass the night until sleep has closed every eye except those of the wakeful sentries on our frontier of defence. The Eussian telegraphic lights are very active on the heights over Inkermann, and have never ceased flitting in and out all over the dark ridge between us and the Belbek for the last three houi-s. 214 OPPOBTUNITIES NEGLECTED. CHAPTER XXL 0PP0ETITNITIE3 NEGLECTED. Strength of the Russian position on the North side — Apathy of the allied generals — On the fall of Sebastopol the Russians prepared for a general retreat — Our inaction their opportunity — Fort Constantine — Fortifica- tions on the North side — Sad effects of our negligence — Destruction of the trenches — Mistakes — Sick officers — Urgent private affairs — Affair at Kertch, in which the 10th Hussars were engaged — Rumour of a conflict between the French and Russian Cavalry at Eupatoria — Plunder — Delicacies — Some of the Land Transport Corps fall into an ambuscade — A good skull — Positions of the armies — General Pelissier resigned to inactivity. Before Sebastopol, September 29. The contrast between the actual proceedings of tlie aUied armies since the 9th of this month and the fevered dreams in which the public at home, as represented by the press, are in- dulging, is as striking as it is painful. The Russians, so far from ilj'ing in discomfort over boundless wastes, are calmly strengthening their position on the north side. The face of the country bristles with their cannon and their batteries. As I wi'ite the roar of their guns is sounding through our camp, and occasionally equals the noise of the old cannonades, which we fondly hoped had died into silence for ever. There is no sign, of any intention on their part to abandon a position on which they have lavished so much care and labour. They retired from the south side when it became untenable ; it was shaken to pieces by a bombardment which it is impracticable for us to renew. They have now between themselves and us a deep arm of the sea, a river, and the sides of a plateau as steep as a wall. We permitted them to get off at their leisure, and looked on, much as we should have gazed on the mimic repre- sentation of such a scene at Astley's, while the Russian bat- talions filed over the narrow bridge, emerging in unbroken order out of that frightful sea of raging fire and smoke, which was tossed up into billows of flame by the frequent explosion of great fortresses and magazines. At what moment our generals woke up and knew what Avas going on I cannot tell, but it is certain they did not, as a bod}', distress themselves by any violent efforts to get a near view of the enemy's movements earli/ in the morning. It was late in the day when Fort Paul EXPLOSIONS, 215 blew up. At about 5.30, as well as I can now recollect, tliat magnificent work was shaken violently, heaved upwards, seemed to tiy into pieces — the breaking masonry and embrasures emitting sheets of white smoke, lighted up by fire — and then collapsed, as it were, into ruins. The mine missed in the first instance ; but, so cool were the enemy, so perfectly satisfied of our inaction were they, and so convinced they had awed us by their tre- mendous energy in destruction, that they sent a boat across with a few men in her, about half-past four o'clock in the evening, and they landed quietly and went into the fort, and were seen by several people in the act of entering, in order to prepare for the explosion which followed immediately after they had retired. Spies have, however, informed the authorities in the most positive manner that the Ilussians were prepared to retreat, and had all in readiness to cover a retrograde movement, in case the fleet succeeded in forcing a passage, and the allies evinced a determi- nation of throwing theii* whole force against the north side. Their field guns and guns of position were all in readiness, and were strengthened by a very large corps of cavalry, which would hold our infantry in check, and om' cavalry could not, of course, get over the water in less than several days, nor could it gain the heights of Mackenzie unless the infantiy had previously established themselves there. Everything was foreseen and provided for, and the Russians were in hopes that they might catch us at a disadvantage amid some of tbeir fortified positions in a diflicult country, and retrieve theii- past disasters, or, at all events, make a masterly retreat. But when they saw that all was hesitation, if not confusion, in the army of the allies, they recovered their courage, stared the situation in the face for one moment, and the next were busily employed in making the best of it ; the consequence is that they have now erected such batteries as to shut up the harbour to our present navy, and to render any attempt to cross it as rash as it would be undesu-able. Yesterday i^hey finished, a new line of batteries, to-day ^ve begin to make some in reply. The papers which arrived yesterday must be amusing to the authorities, for by their want of energy they have assuredly falsified all those absurd anticipations of further victory, of utter routs, of vigorous pursuit, and of energetic action in which these mere writers and readers — men who have read TJmcydides till they are stupefied, and have muddled their brains poring over histories of wars and lives of 'Generals, and who have musty traditions about your Caesars, 216 OPPORTUNITIES NEGLECTED. Akxaiidors, Buonapartes, and Wellingtons, involving disagree- able inferences and compai-isons — have ridiculously and un- justifiably indulged. But could we have moved had our Generals been so minded ? Is it true that as steam has impeded the action of our fleet, the Land Transport Corps has stopped the march of our armj' ? I am assured that Colonel M']\Iurdo will not permit any such assertion to be made. With the aid of a few men the army would have been ready to take the field and to carry provisions and ammunition for om* available strength of bayonets detached on a short expedition. As to the French, they have certified theii- mobility by the rapid demonstration of four divisions on Baidar. Then, why did not the English move ? Orders and counter-orders were sent daj' after day — requisitions on Captain This to know how many mules he had to carry ball cartridge, orders to Captain That to turn out his battery for the purpose of taking the field at daj'break next morning ; counter-orders in the evening re-countered jmd re- tracted at night, till it was hard to say what was to be done ; and if the men Avho gave the commands were in half as confused a state of mind as those who received them, they were indeed in a pitiable plight. Cato with his Plato could not have been at all puzzled like unto them. We did not move, and people say it is because we had not the means to transport the Land Transport Corps ; but that I don't believe was the reason of our immobility. AVliat that reason was it is not for me to pretend to say. It is quite evident that the expectations of the people at home have not been gratified to the full extent, and that we are not in undisputed possession of maritime Sebastopol, that the Russians are not utterly defeated, and that the campaign will have to be renewed next year by doing what might have been done three weeks ago. How many men will Russia have in the Crimea ere the season for the renewal of military operations retm'us, should she be determined to hold it, and be able to continue the war ? On the north side there are few houses, but there are very lai-ge magazines. First, on the western extremity of the northern shore stands Fort Constantine. The roof is covered in to a great depth with sandbags, and there are large gims mounted on it en harhette, but many of the embrasures are empty, and do not show guns. A very heavy parapet with traverses — in fact, a line of batteries — strikes out from the north side of the fort, and crests the seaward face of the clitf, com- municating with the Wasp Fort, Star- Fort, and the works of the RUSSIAN POSITION. 217 sea defences towards the mouth of the Belbek. Next to Con- stantine, on the harbour, there is a large earthwork, with heavy guns, behind whicli is the citadel, and this has recently been much strengthened, and occupies a commanding position on a hillside. Next come more earthworks, a lai'ge stone storehouse, and the casemated Avails of Fort Catherine, with two tiers of guns ; then more earthworks, till the line of defence merges into the works at Inkermann. In fact. Fort Constantine, Sievernaia, Fort Michael, and Fort Catherine, with their con- necting works, and the citadel and forts in their rear, form one great battery, too far to injure us seriously behind Sebastopol, but quite able to withstand any infantry attack from the south side. The difficulty of the north side was foreseen all along — foreseen, but not provided for. In fact, there was no step taken to insure the possession of the fruits of our labour. We did not prepare for success, and Ave now have to brave a new campaign, and the Russians have seven or eight months in which they may strengthen themselves, recruit their exhausted army, gather new materiel, and dispute our progress with fresh slaughter, Avhich leaves us victory but half enjoyed. The British army is busily engaged roadmaking, hutbuilding, and drilling. Large parties go down every day to Sebastopol and return with timber, doors, window-frames, joists, slabs of marble and stonework, grates, glass, locks, iron, Stourbridge fu'ebricks, of which a large quantity was found, and various other articles of common use in camp, and the huts which arise on every side are models of ingenuity in the adaptation of Russian property to British and French uses. As yet, however, the vast majority of the soldiers are under canvas, and are likely to be so for a couple of months longer. The trenches — those monuments of patient suffering, of endurance, of courage — will soon be no more. The guns are withdrawn ; indeed, they are now nearly all gone. The gabions are going fast, for the men have re- ceived permission to use them for fuel — the earthworks Avill speedily disappear, and next spring few traces will be left of the existence of these memorable Avorks. It is melancholy, amid all these sounds of rejoicing and victory, to think that an army has been all but lost and swallowed up in these narroAV dykes, and that it Avas " done by mistake." Our engineers dreAV their lines, and to them they adhered, although the Rus- sians showed theiu their error every day. After all, Avhen our attack Avas made, the men had to run over the open space for 218 OPPORTUNITIES NEGLECTED. upwards of 200 yards. Let any one try to run such a distance over broken ground with a rifle and 50 rounds of ball cartridge, and see whether he will be in a good condition for hard fighting at the end of it. The French had just 10 metres to run across. They had more men at work, and easier ground for their opera- tions between the JMamelon and Malakhoff", but the question is, ought oiu- men to have been called on for such a death run at all ? The firing into the town is occasionally very heavy, and it is returned with spirit by the French mortars, and by a few guns in position. The roads advance slowly, but are solidly and well made as far as they go, and the railway is assuming an appear- ance of solidity and permanence wliich gives satisfactory assu- rances of its eftlciency for the muter. The number of sick officers anxious to retui-n home is not on the decrease. Many of those whose names appear in general orders were, however, suflerers in the attack of the 8th of September. The propoiiion of men invalided on account of iU-health is about equal to the number of officers. Poor fellows, they, however, have no " private urgent affairs" to attend to, and that is the cause assigned for many leaves of absence. It is curious and interestmg to observe how rank and social posi- tion hr'nig with them special cares of business and the laboui'S of afiairs from which the lowlier classes are exempted. Thus, the officers of the Guards are harassed to death by " urgent pri- vate affairs," which can no how be settled anywhere but in lingland, and which will require their presence in that land of busuiess from this time till just the week after Christmas before there is the smallest chance of their satisfactory adjustment. How the gallant fellows can manage to stay in the army and attend to their regimental duties with such delicate negotiations to conduct, such stupendous arithmetical investigations to make, such a coil of accomits to examine, such interviews to go through, such a constant pressure of affau-s to sustain, is inconceivable ! Sometimes no less than three of them succumb on the same day, and appear in orders as victims to these cruel urgencies. There are some people in camp who maintain that the killing of grouse, partridges, pheasants, and salmon, is a necessary condition of existence, and that when these are combined with the pleasures of society, with a light course of opera, and the claims of the family, they constitute an urgent private affair quite strong enough to draw any man from the Crimea. No one blames these officers for feeling so strongly that they are citizens. We AFFAIR AT KERTCH. 219 should all like to get home if it were consistent with our duty, but some of our officers think they have nothing to do when once the fighting is over. I have not seen any version of the little affair at Kertch in which the 10th Hussars were engaged, but I have heard many vai'ious reports and statements on the subject, and it is said the despatch containing the particulars was lost between Balaklava and head-quarters. It is reported that a small force of the 10th went out to patrol the countiy towards Arabat, and that when marching in loose order they wore suddenly attacked by a strong party of Cossack cavalry, who succeeded ia killing two, wound- ing thi'ee or four, and taking 15 men prisoners. The rest of the Hussars cut their way through the enemy, having, it is said, left 40 of them dead on the field. Possibly, this version is as unlike the truth as can be, but I tell the tale as it was told to me. There are very few means of commrmicating with Kertch or Yenikale, and the many delays and mistakes made on board the fleet with respect to the Sea of Azoff maUbags render those means still less satisfactory. What the garrison will do in the Aviater it is only for generals and admirals to determine. In addition to this rumour from Kertch, there is a vague story going about that the French cavalry at Eupatoria, bemg out on dutj', lost their way in a fog and wandered about till they came abruptly upon the Russian troops established in their neighbour- hood as a corps of observation. The sudden appearance of the French caused such a fright among the Muscovites that they bolted off at once, leaving their stores and quantities of provi- sions behind, which were destroyed by the French, who there- upon returned on their way rejoicing. General Eose, our excel- lent Commissioner to the French army, has been out at Baidar and towards Aitodor with the French reconnaissances, and the opinion formed after a careful examination of the passes is, that it would be imprudent to attempt to force them at present. Killiecrankie is a bowling-green compared to those high bluffs and tremendous ravines. The outposts are on tolerably good terms with each other, but now and then resume offensive opera- tions and fire at each other with acrimony. The Russians still occupy Aitodor and forbid the right of fishing in the Tchouliou, which is a most tempting little trout stream. The Tartars, in spite of the Cossacks, occasionally manage to bring in grapes and fine fruit from the interior. Perhaps these gentry serve as spies for both parties. The villas on the seacoast below Baidar have now 220 OPPORTUNITIES NEGLECTED. been tolerably well plundered and emptied of their contents. We have had a trifling share of the loot, but our Hussar outposts got some little mementos of their agreeable sojourn in those pleasant valleys, and one officer at least, who was detached for the special purpose of s\iperintending the men and of preventing plunder- ing, has obtained possession of a very fine China set since he was seen in the direction of Baidar, which did not form part of his original marching outfit. However, our allies in this respect, as in many otliers, have the advantage of us. They even find it worth Avhile to come over to the slaughter-grounds of our divi- sions in order to gather the heads, hearts, livers, lights, and tails, which our men often throw away or bury as offal ; and although they will not allow the English soldiers to go into their part of the town without passes, they do not scruple to avail themselves of the free permission which is given to all to enter the English portion of the town, and they may be seen very busity engaged, ransacking the piles of old clothing, &c., in the magazines, in the hope of extracting something as a " curio" wherewith to tempt the British amateur. The other day some of our Land Transport men were sent with mules to get some wood beyond Miskomia. Ten or twelve Greek volun- teers, or militiamen, made an ambuscade in a wood close by, and fired a volley at the muleteers, which emptied two saddles and killed two mules. One of the drivers was hit on the head, but he was a native of Tippcrary, and the ball hopped off' his skull. He is now quite well. The other was only slightly wounded. The French have secured all the passes thoroughly, and Baidar Valley is as safe as Regent-street — indeed, safer to a simple- minded and unwary visitor. The position of the armies, with the exception of the move- ment of the troops towards Baidar, of which you will hear accounts from another hand, remains unchanged in its larger features. Even Pelissier seems inclined to rest upon his baton for the time. His gaze is fixed, no doubt, upon the Mackenzie plateau, but his courage fails him ; nor does he care to repeat his little proverb, which was in his mouth when slaughter and bloodshed were spoken of in his presence in reference to our grand assaults — " On ne peut pas faire des omelettes sans casser des ceufs." The Marshal appears to have given up the manu- facture of omelettes for the present ; he has plenty of eggs if he likes to break them. There is very little matter of interest to record in one's diary. DISBANDED CORPS. 221 CHAPTER XXII. Departure 'of the Duke of Newcastle — The Mounted Staff Corps and the Ambulance Corps disbanded — Attention to the wants of the sick and wounded soldiers — Not only comforts but even luxuries supplied — Ttoom for improvement — Sir George Brown's speecli — Services of the Naval Brigade — Injustice of the authorities towards this brancli of tlie service — Irregular promotion — Movements in the port of Balaklava — A Slid accident — Humours. Wednesday. The Duke of Newcastle left the fleet this morning on board Her Majesty's ship Highflyer, Captain Moore, in order to visit Circassia, and possibly to look at Kertch and the Eastern littoral of the Black Sea. He is accompanied or followed by Mr. Simpson, the artist, who has been so long engaged out here recording with his pencil the principal scenes of the war. His Grace has examined into many things connected with the army with a good deal of care, and he had an opportunity (of which he did not avail himself) of paying the last tribute of respect and affection to one of his own most favoured bantlings — to wit, " the mounted Staff" Corps," which has just expired of in- anition and atrophy. " The Ambulance Corps" has also ceased to exist as a separate body, but it is hard to decide who has the control over its atoms. Major Grant, of the former corps, is still out here, but his officers are preparing for other duties ; and of the men who are willing to remain, the majority, if not the whole, will be employed as mounted mail guards, under the control of the army post-office authorities. Major Grant, of the Ambulance Corps, went to England long ago, and Captain Pig- gott only remains behind till the disjecta memhra of pensioners, carts, and horses are handed over to Colonel M'Murdo or some other proper officer. Thus two " corps " have perished during the Duke's visit. The men of the mounted Staff" Corps, who performed a good deal of severe work during the winter, have all along been viewed with jealousy and dislike, on account of the ridiculously high rate of their pay, which was equal to that of an ensign in the Line. Latterly their duty was almost ex- clusively confined to the care and carriage of the mails and of despatch bags, and, indeed, their diminished numbers did not render them available for any further service. The men of the Ambulance Corps were judiciously selected from old pen- 222 OPPORTUNITIES NEGLECTED, sioners, principally, it is to be supposed, on account of the notorious sobriety of the class, and because of their presumed softheartedness and tenderness. They drank hard, and were by no means inclined to spoil those under their charge by over- indulgence. There were, of course, many exceptions in this respect, and the officers devoted themselves to their duty with all their ability and energy, but the corps was radically vicious in fonnation, and its defects could not be cured, and so by degrees it perished. Of course the Duke of Newcastle's presence had no more to do with the fate of these bodies than it had with the conduct and events of the war, but it is odd enough that the two, which were most lauded at the time of their creation, and at whose birth his Grace presided with parental solicitude, should have come to an end, within the space of a few months, under his very eyes. The service of the ambulance has been lately performed by soldiers detached from the army for that pm-pose, and officers of the Line are employed in command at a time when they can be very ill spared from their regiments. As to the charges of the alleged hai'shness of some of the old ambulance men to those sent in their charge to Scutari, &c., it may have had the eiFect of calling attention to the abuses in the department. At all events, it served as a foil to the allega- tions that the men were as comfortable as they could be on all occasions. The stream has now set the other way, and the authorities vie with one another in providing every accommo- dation, and even luxury, for the sick and womided soldier. Dr. Hall has at various periods received reqiiisitions for such articles as '■ Eose water !" " Eau de Cologne ! " "Champagne!" Dif- ferent times these from what the anny had last year, when Sir George Brown, like some great bull ofBasan, went bellowing over the camps of the affrighted Light Division, seeking for " medical comforts" that he might devour them with his wrath, and goring and butting Dr. Alexander and Dr. Tice severelj', because they would not reduce their store of medicines to that blessed old Peninsulai* allowance of which Sir George had only the dim recollections of a subaltern, although, with many strange oaths and ancient instances, he affirmed them to be the per- fection of pharmaceutical wisdom. And even now things might be mended — I say so with all submission and deference. Perhaps the public, " the confounded public," as they are some- times called by certain people out here, will agree with me when they learn that just two hom-s before the attack on the THE NAVAL BRIGADE. 223 Redan the sui'geon in the Quarries was " run out" of lint, plaster, and bandages, and could get no one to go up to his principal medical officer for them for a long time, althougli a great action with the enemy was just impending, and the Quarries were the very place where a large numher of casualties must have been expected. This statement I have on the word of a general officer, to whom the surgeon applied for assistance. Again, some regiments did not take down more litters than on ordinary occasions. This practice, however, would be approved by those who maintain with considerable strength of argumenta- tion, that no wovmded officers or men should be taken off the field at all while an action is going on, inasmuch as every woimded man taken to the rear caiTies off six or eight com- batants who retire on the pretence of carrying or attending on him, and thus aflbrds opportimities for skulking and sneaking away to a few cowardly men who set a bad example to others. With reference to Sir George Brown's speech, which hasjust reached us, one may say it is rather astonishing to find an officer so fond of plain speaking and candour omitting to tell his audi- ence what he often told a select circle out here — that he thought Sebastopol never would be taken, and that the expedition was a mistake — apophthegms which the croakers at once circulated with lugubrious alacrity, so that the staff of the Light Division was of anything but a lively character. As the Naval Brigade are now going home, a short resume of their services, which will do them little justice, may not be out of place. The Naval Brigade landed on the 25th of October, and were at once set to the very onerous duty of di-agging up the heavy siege guns to tno batteries, or to the parks of artillery in front. They brought up their own ammunition, provisioned themselves all through the winter, were their own commissariat, mounted their own guns, repaired their damaged embrasures, and were only 24 hours on and 24 hours oft' duty when the bat- teries Avere in play. The latest Naval and Military Gazettes have shoAVTi the immense number of promotions and of rewards conferred on the army for services in the field, and yet no sailor in the Naval Brigade has received a gratuity, though many of them have been recommended to the Admiralty over and over again. The last promotion and gratuity in the brigade was given on November 10, 1854. During the siege the Naval Brigade served for 33 days of heavy bombardment and can- 224 OPPORTUNITIES NEGLECTED. nonade. From December, 1854, out of 1,400 men, 31 died from sickness, 61 were killed, 24 wounded mortally, and 331 were more or less severely wounded — total killed, wounded, and dead, 447. What the forthcoming Gazettes may bring forth I cannot say, but I can answer for it now, that, knowing many officers of the late brigade as I do, there is scarcely one of the lieutenants who is not bitterlj' discontented. On June IS Lieutenant Kidd and Mr. Kennedy went out of the trench to bring in a wounded soldier ; Kidd was killed in the generous attempt, and it was thought that Kennedy, as senior mate of the Naval Brigade and the companion of poor Kidd in such a noble act, would be sure to succeed to the vacancy created by the death of his friend. It is laid down in the service regulations, that an officer, when promoted, must be eligible for promotion in point of time. Kennedy had seen two years' service. There was on board tlie fleet a mate named Graham, who Avas three days short of the time in which he might be eligible to receive promotion a.s Lieutenant. The Admiral should, it is asserted, have fiUed^up the vacancy at once. He kept it open for three days. Mr. Graham was warned to prepare to pass his examination. When he had done so, the Admiral signalled to him to come and break- fast on board the flag-ship, and as soon as he made his ap- pearance his commission as Lieutenant was handed to him. He subsequently served a short time in the trenches, but after a lew days was moved from that dutj^ and appointed to the " Fury!" Thursday. Just as the cavalry are going to Constantinople draughts arrive here for them. The " Great Britain" now exhibits her huge hulk in Balaklava. The " Europa" has arrived with shot, shell, and huts. All spare shot and shell is to be sent on board ships for home or conveyance to Constantinople. There are great complaints of the new carts and waggons for the Land Transport Corps. As some of our men were at work to-day near the Strand Battery a spark fell down from a pipe on a quantity of gun- powder, which ignited a small magazine, blew up the house, killed three or four men, and wounded fourteen ! Friday. The weather continues very fine. The firing is heavy at SECRET EXPEDITIONS. 225 intervals. Sir II. Jones is on board ship, unwell. There are rumours that Sir E. Lyons will soon relinquish his command, as his health is said to be giving way. CHAPTER XXIII. SIGXS OF A MOVE. Kumours of an expedition— Destruction of the houses and puWic buildings of Sebastopol — Iload-niaking — The railway and the central road — Preparations for the winter— Beautiful weather — Wild flowers — French and Russian practice — Diary — The Russians commence a heavy fire — An enormous convoy — Revival of the Russian Donnybrook Fair — A serious accident — Destruction of the Imperial Barracks of Sebastopol by fire — Carelessness — A dashing exploit by the French — Council of Generals — Something in the wind — General inspection and review — Certainty of a move — Conjectures as to the destination of the expe- dition. Before Sebastopoi., October 2. The army is amused by rumours of active service, while there are only signs of hybernation and stagnation in camp. Our allies and the enemy nevertheless are stirring. It is whispered that on Thursday next a secret expedition will start for a place the name of which is by no means secret, and that 25,000 French and 15,000 English troops are to go on board the fleet with all possible expedition on that day. Again, it is said, " orders have been received from England" by electric telegraph to keep all steamers in Balaklava or at Kamiesch ; but, if such orders have been sent, they were assuredly disobeyed, for steamers leave Balaklava daily, and the " Great Britain," the largest of them all, is getting ready to return home on Saturday next, and will be preceded by the " Colombo," and several others. The telegraph has many evil qualities attributed to it. Though generally quick in its operations, it is sometimes too slow. For example, it is stated that orders were sent from home to spare the houses, public buildings, and docks of Sebas- topol. It was only in our power to comply with the latter part of this injunction, for the bombs and shot of om- batteries, aided hj the enemy's destructiveness, had laid all the rest in ruins. The docks only require a lighted match to fire the train, and these models of grand design and of beautiful workmanship will be mere craters of blocks of red gra-nite, fine sandstone, and VOL. II. Q 226 SIGXS OF A MOVE. gi'anite. Another indication of an intention to move is sup- posed to be conveyed by the fact that returns have been requu'ed from each regiment of the number of bat horses belonging to it. Those returns are not asked for in anti- cipation of any expedition whatever. The work of the army is actually that of preparation, not for motion but for stagna- tion. The men are engaged on great roads from the ports to the front, which will be permanent marks of the occupation of this portion of the Crimea by the allied armies for centuries ; in fact, with so much labour at their disposal, our authorities are determined, if possible, to atone for the apathy of last autumn. It must be remembered that the enemy has an equal amount of labour set free for the accumulation of stores and the formation and repair of roads, and that they can now cover the Crimea with depots and fortified lines from Simpheropol to the Belbek. The roads which we are making are almost beyond the require- ments of an army of temporary occupation. They are broad and well paved so far as they have gone — in some places they have been tunnelled through the rock, which here and there can only be removed by heavy blasting charges. The railway is now assuming an appearance of great solidity. Beside it winds the Central-road, and from the new central depot, under Mr. Brew, which has been removed from the Col de Balaklava to an open space in the rear of the Second Division and between the Guards' Brigade and the Fourth Division, there are divisional roads in progress, which will also communicate with the divisional depots. When the railway is worked by locomotives, instead of horses, the permanent way will endure much better, and a great deal more work will be got out of the line. All these preparations are being made to enable the army to exist comfortably in its winter cantonments, to bring up huts, food, clothing, and fuel, and to remove guns, mortars, &c. from the front. The trenches will be left as they are, except in so far as the parapets will be affected by the removal of the gabions which the men are permitted to take awaj"^ for firewood. For these peaceful labours we have been blessed by the most lovely weather. The days are warm, and the air is charmingly fresh and pure. The autumnal or second summer of the Crimea has shone upon us with all the delightful influences of repose. The earth teems again with herbs and flowers of autumn. Numerous bulbous plants are springing up over the steppes, among which the " Colchicura Autumnale" holds a prominent place, and the hill sides ring ACTIVITY OF THE FOE. 227 with the frequent volleys directed \ipon innumerahle quail, against wliicli our army wages fierce battle at present. The demolition of the houses in Sebastopol goes on, but it is not so safe to visit the place as it was formerly, inasmuch as the Kussians now shell vigorously, and throw shot at any consider- able groups which they notice in the streets. The French have two mortars, which once belonged, I believe, to the Russians ; they are placed among the ruins of the Karabelnaia, and bom- bard the barracks in the citadel with great success. Subjoined is a short diary of our proceedings smce last mail-day -.-^ Sunday. The enemy, having discovered the preparations for throwing up batteries near Fort Alexander and the ruins of Fort Paul by the French and English respectively, commenced a heavy fire from the northern works and forts this morning, which they con- tinued throughout the day, and which, at times, amounted to a cannonade. The French mortars, aided by some guns on the left, replied with vigom-. The Russians fired fi-om Fort ilichael, from Little Severnaya, and from the Harbour Spur Battery, and theu" shot went crashing through the ruined houses, but did not do any very serious injury. An enormous convoy was seen going out of the northern camps towards Simpheropol, but it was impossible to ascertain whether the carts were full or empty. As it was an exceedingly clear day, we could see into the Russian camps as plainly as if they had been our own, and through my glass I could make out the faces of the gunners on the top of Fort Catherine, who were working the guns en har- bett&i The enemy were labouring with great energy at new bat- teries all over the extensive series of sloping hill-sides south of the Belbek. Their Kadikoi, or Donnybrook fair, had, like ours, revived again, and was well attended, and in the distance large herds of oxen ranged at will. On going down to the town I heard that our 17-gun battery, begun last night by Lieutenant Graham, R.E., had been stopped by order. Possibly we may be going to do something which will render such works of no utility. The progress of the men in removing wood from the houses is so rapid that there will scarcely be a stick of the place left. At four o'clock a serious accident occurred, which has inflicted some loss on the army in depriving them of a consider- able magazine of wood. A shell sent by the Russians bm-st close to the barracks, and a merchant sailor ran to look at the crater q2 228 SIGXS OF A MOVE. which it formed in the ground. He then entered the building itself, and sauntered about smoking his pipe till he came to some loose gunpowder, on which, being of a scientific and experimen- talizing turn of mind, he tried the effects of dropping several sparks from the burning tobacco. The powder, as is not unusual in such cases, exploded with violence, and blew up the sailor and a sentiy outside. They were both dreadfully burnt. As the floor was covered with cartridges and loose powder, the fire spread, and went leaping on by fits and starts to a large quantity of the same combustible matter. No one could get near to stop the fire. At last it reached the magazine, and the explo- sion blew out the walls and ceilings of the central barrack. The flames set fire to the dry woodwork, and in a short time the whole pile of buildings, which were of admirable construction, was in a blaze. The conflagration lasted till all that could be burnt was consumed, and lighted up the sky at night to a great distance. All that remains of the Imperial Barracks of Sebas- topol is a mass of charred and blackened stones, split by the action of fire. The Russians, thinking that the accident had been caused by their own fire, plied their guns with increased vigour, and threw shot and shell around the place, but did no damage. It is not quite certain that the man who caused the acci- dent was a sailor. Some people say he was a navvy of the Army Works Corps. Whoever he was, by the act for which he paid so dearly, he destroyed not less than 30,000 cartloads of wood, which might have been made available for hutting and fuel. It is, on the whole, a miracle that more accidents of the kind do not occur, owing to the neglect of the authorities and the care- lessness of the men. No one seems to think it necessary to destroy the great quantities of powder, loose and in cartridges, which may be found in all the Russian batteries, and in every nook and corner of the place. It was only the other day a naval officer pointed out to me the danger arising from the number of live shell lying inside the Redan. The fuses are simply open tubes of wood, and have no caps, so that a spark setting fire to one fuse would cause all the shells to explode. These live shells are to be seen in all directions, and are generally nicely imbedded near small magazines or piles of cartridges. It is now supposed that the explosion which took place in the Strand Battery, and hurt so many men, was a fougasse. The Russians seem to be strengthening their camps near Mackenzie's Farm. LEAVE OF ABSE>'CE. 229 Monday. Intelligence has been received to-day tliat on Friday or Satur- day the French troops near Eupatoria surprised a Eussian detachment and convoy, capturing six guns, 170 prisoners, and some carts and horses. A council of Generals was held to-day at head-quarters, at which Marshal Pelissier was present, and there are " strong suspicions" that we are at last going " to do something." Orders have been sent to the French fleet to prepare for the reception of 15,000 men to-morrow. The conferences between the Generals have been frequent of late. The detachment of Royals doing duty at head-quarters as guard have been relieved by 200 men of the Rifle Brigade, under the command of Captain Fyers. There has not been much firing from or on the town to-day, but the French at Inkermann are annoying a new Russian camp at the other side of the ravine by constant discharges of long range rockets. We hear that General Bentinck is going home, and that he will probably be succeeded in his command by Lord W. Paulet. Lord West, an able and distinguished ofiicer, is also going home, and to-day the name of Colonel Norcott appears in orders with leave of absence on urgent private affairs. Colonel Norcott's services in the field are a matter of history. Except when stricken down by fever for a short time, he never left his men since the brigade landed at Gallipoli, primus in Turcis. With equal gallantry and skill he advanced to the vineyards, led his wing up the steep of the Alma in front of the Light Division, full in the throat of the Russian batteries, and where the terrible fii'e of his men caused the enemy the loss of most valuable officers and soldiers. It needs not to be said that the temporary absence of such an officer would be a severe loss to the army if there was anything to be done, but the reasons which induce him to leave the field on which he won so much renown and esteem are imperative. Mr. Hayter, of the commissariat, is not the commissary officer reported as killed on the 8th in the telegraphic despatch from head-quarters. He is alive and well, and was never in the way of being hit. Although several oflUcers of the Commissariat Department have been under fire, only one of them, Mr. Blane, has received any injury, and his "wound" was a slight scratch in the face, received as he was going to his own tent in the Third Division, late at night, by a stone which was knocked up by one of the lonof ranjje round shots. 230 SIGNS OF A MOVE, Tuesday. At ten o'clock tliis morning a general commotion arose in camp, in consequence of the sounding of the assembly and the turning out of all the men. At the same time the Light Divi- sion was inspected, and the artillery were reviewed in the open space in front of our lines towards Inkermann. The 1st brigade of the Fourth Division received orders to hold themselves in readiness to march at dawn to-morrow morning. It is at last evident that some active operation will be attempted ere winter sets in. So sudden was the order that all the various working parties were interrupted in their Avork, and marched off to their respective regiments after they had been occupied in roadmaking only a couple of hours. The men detailed to the Land Trans- port Corps and to the Commissariat Department were sought out and told to rejoin their regiments at once. A general parade and inspection of French troops of the divisions of Inker- mann are now going on. It is conjectured that we shall go to Theodosia, Kertch, or Eupatoria. The telegi'aph will inform you of the expedition, and, possibly, of its results, long ere these lines can reach London. CHAPTER XXIV. Speculations on the expedition — An amusing story, illustrative of aristo- cratic sagacity — Various expeditions — Distribution of the forces in tlie fleet — The mixed commission — Its proceedings — List of members— The case of the military surgeons — Dr. Hall's letter — Lord Panmure's reply — An unfortunate omission — Jealousy between the military and the civil surgeons — Rivalries — Feuds — Sir George Brown's prejudice in favour of Varna — Health of the army — Its strength — Its consumptive powers — Destruction of corn at Kertch an unwise proceeding — Scarcity of flour and of rum — Butchers without their implements — Bad tools— The Russian army on tlie Belbek — Deserters — Their accounts of want and suffering in the Russian camp — Forlorn condition of two deserters — Attempted classification by a contemporary writer of the regiments engaged in the attack on the Redan, Into English, Irish, and Scotch, fallacious — Dissatisfaction of the crew of the "Diamond" at being excluded from the Crimean medal — General Simpson presented with the Order of the Medjidie of the First Class, &c. — Similar honour to Marshal Pelissier — Arrival of Lieutenant Goneste at head quarters — Embarkation — Activity of the French and Russian batteries — Move- ments in the Russian camp. Before Sebastopol, October 5. The expedition seems to be determined upon, and will as- suredly sail this week, unless the weather should tm-nout very^ AN EXPEDITION. 231 unfavourable. The Light (not the Hussar) Brigade of Cavahy have received orders to hold tliemselves in readiness to embark, and it is believed they are going to Eupatoria. Our destination is kept as close as possible, but every one affects to know it, points it out slily on charts, or mutters it into your ear. The excursion of the fleet, and its return a short time ago, may now have a deeper significance than has been generally supposed, but, if it was a ruse, the secret is known to the enemy. The electric telegraph quite annihilates one's speculative and inductive faculties. What's the use of trying to find out where an expedition is going to, when long before the result of one's investigation can reach England, not only the destination but the results of that expedition will be known from John o'Groat's to Land's-end ? You stop in the midst of your anxious impetus to convey information, and recollect that all your recent intelli- gence will be flat, stale, and very unprofitable on 'Change before the letter has reached Constantinople. There is, indeed, a story in circulation that the brother of a noble Duke received a letter from his Grace, in which he declared his belief that Sebastopol could not be taken, just a few houi's before the telegraph an- nounced its capture, and that the contents of the said epistle were too largely promulgated to prevent the Duke's reputation as a soothsayer from being seriously damaged. We are told this expedition is going to Oczakoff, at the entrance to the Bug, or to Kinburn, or other abstruse places known in England only to the " Hertfordshire Incumbent" and a few Fellows of the Geographical Society. You will be intimately acquainted with, all its proceedings, not to speak of its destination, by the time this communication is half way to Marseilles, and I am almost afraid to say where I think we are going to, but with much deference suggest that it is intended as a feeler towards Nicholaieff. The exact number of French I have not ascer- tained, but I have heard that it will amount to 15,000. The Light Cavah-y Brigade, under Lord George Paget, C.B., is said 1o be destined for Eupatoria, and it is evident that a strong demonstration is intended against the Eussian convoys west- ward of the Tchongar route into Eussia. If we are only blessed with moderate weather for a few weeks, these expeditions, judi- ciously handled, may precipitate the evacuation of the Crimea ; but if the winter gales set in early it will be hazardous or im- possible to effect a landing. Abeady the skies look unsettled and lowering — dark fog banks rest occasionally on the Euxine, 232 SIGNS OF A MOVE. and masters of sailing transports anchored outside Balaklava, in thirty or forty fatlioms of water, (!ast suspicious glances to wind- ward as they think of the storm of November 14, 1S54. The following is the distribution of the forces of the expedi- tion to be embarked under Brigadier-General the Hon. A. Spencer : — Keisriment. 17tli Regiment 20th Regiment . 21st Regiment . 67tli Regiment . 63id Regiment . Royal Marines . Cavalry . . . Royal Engineers Staff .... Medical Staff . Regimental Staff Commls. Staff Royal Artillery Royal Artillery Royal Artillery Ship. H.M.S. Royal Albert . . H.M.S. Algiers . . . . H.M.S Hannibal . . . H.M.S. Leopard and Sidon H.M.S. Trince.ss Royal . . H.M S. St. Jean d'Acre . Screw transport Indian . Officers. 28 30 31 32 30 37 1 3 Sailing ship Arabia Sailing ship Prince Alfred Screw steamer Charity ;} Men. 756 474 643 724 6-.>4 800 20 60 200 Horses. 21 4* 7 2 23 1 loot f Land transport 1 \ cacets, litters, &c. ^ CO 120t The sailing ship Orient, with medical comforts, blankets, &c. The screw-steamer Lady A. Lambton, with one month's provisions, and forage, and the St. Jean d'Acre also carries tents and officers' baggage. In this distribution some alterations and deviations will no doubt be made — some additions to the ships, some few mistakes, perhaps. But at present the men are all embarked, and every- thing is ready for the departure of the troops. I hope to let you have some details of interest, in spite of the lateness of the season, and of the arid and wretched place to which we are bound. We know there is no water to be found there. Hence the small number of horses taken. The " Leander" and "Triton" will be obliged to supply the " Indian" and " Charity" with water. This is a serious matter. It is vmderstood that the men will remain out for the winter. The Mixed Commission which has been sitting in Sebastopol for the purpose of dividmg and valuing the warlike stores and provisions abandoned by the enemy in their retreat from the j)lace, has combined the functions of the three infernal judges with gi-eat skill, and has been by turns Minos, iEacus, and Ehadamanthus — for, although it certainly has condemned no one to death, it has consigned many worthless bodies of materiel * 1 D tons of stores, &c. t C guns, e waggons. t 15 carts. THE MIXED COMMISSION. 233 to destruction. Its deliberations have at times been perturbed, if' they have not been suspended, by the attentions of the enemy's cannoneers, for tlie street in which the house of the commissioners is situate has been, it appears, selected with a view to remind them of the value of guns, balls, and gun- powder, as it is completely enfiladed by the fire of one of the batteries. Sometimes a shot has bumped against the walls of the mansion, and shaken the bodies corporate, though it might not have disturbed the nerves of the members. Sometimes a shell has blurted into the rooms, and routed outlying artists as they sketched the ruins of Sebastopol. But the commissioners have pursued and now almost terminated their labours, and their report will be an exceedingly interesting index to the actual re- maining resources of the Russians in Sebastopol, after a siege and active operations of eleven months' duration. The following is a list of the members of the commission: — Feench. Mazure, General d'Artillerie. Feldstraffe, Capitaine du Genie. Laurent, Lieutenant de Vaisseau. Cicoza, Capitaine d'Artillerie. Goutier, Adjoint a I'lntendance. De Calac, Capitaine d'Artillerie. Cadurst, Chef de Bataillon du Genie. Genoux de la Coche, Capitaine de Fregate. La Cabriniere, Sous-intendant. English. Captain Drummond, R.N. Brigadier-General Dupuis, E.A. Major Staunton, R.E. Commander F. Martin, R.N. Assistant-Commissary-General Crookshanlc Captain Shaw, R.A. A. Rumble. Lieutenant BuUer, R.N. Captain Montagu, R.E. Assistant-Commissary-General Lundy. Captain Dickson, R.A. A. W. Johnson, Secretary to the Commission. 234 SIGNS OP A MOVE, It is generally known tliat Englishmen like to grumble. Is it true that England gives them reason for indulging in their notorious tendencies ? Now, for instance, the doctors (in com- mon with nearly every class of officers) are highly indignant at the alleged neglect and indifference of the authorities to their claims. Is it to he understood that English mihtary surgeons are not entitled to any honorary reward ? Lord Pan- mure does not say so, hut he lets Lord Raglan's shade stand hetwixt him and the angry doctors. The case stands thus : — • After the publication of the recent lists of brevets, promotions, and decorations of the Bath, &c., Dr. Hall, urged thereunto by sundry weighty considerations, addressed an energetic and reasonable letter to Dr. Andrew Smith, animadverting upon, or at least pointing distinctly to, the exclusion of the surgeons of the army from the rewards bestowed with no niggard hand upon their comrades of the Staff and of the regiments. Dr. Smith sent that letter to Lord Panmure, and his Lordship, who has not studied polemical divinity for nothing, and is, more- over, a capital hand at finding out a good official excuse, replied to it, and met the case by a plea of confession and avoidance. Nothing would his Lordship be more ready, nothing was he more anxious to do, than to recommend deserving medical officers for promotion, but the fact was, that he was in utter ignorance of the deserts of the gentlemen in question, for, on looking to Lord Raglan's despatches, he found that the Field- Marshal had never said a good word for any of that genus or species of man-militant. They could not even boast of the official damnation of a fiiint applause from head-quarters, nor is there much solid pudding to compensate for the want of empty praise from which they have sufl'ered. Although these officers do not wish to be placed mider a system of supervision like that of the French intendance, they feel that such a course would at least relieve them from much responsibility and con- sequent blame, and that it would secure to them special mention and official recognition of meritorious services or of extraordinary exertion. In one case, at least, I know for a fact that a General of Division, with many of the oaths which he lavishes in enforcing professions of earnestness and sincerity, declared to the principal medical officer of his division that he had intended to mention him specially to Lord Raglan, for his zeal and devotion after the battle of the Alma, but that he had imfortunately forgotten OUR ARMY SURGEONS. 2oJ to do so in his despatch. However, he would — he would hy , do so at once — write a despatch, and so on. Did he ? If he did, Lord llaglan never paid the least attention to it. The wretched jealousies of our system are contagious. The instant a civilian becomes connected with the army he is caught at once, and becomes involved with A, B, or C, who has something or other to do with him. The military surgeons are jealous of — well, they do not like — the civil sm'geons. The latter think the former assume too many airs, and that they despise the civil element, which is fresher from the hospitals, and knows a great deal more about the theories of the day than be- sworded and bespurred fogies who swear by Lawrence or Larrey. There is an int^nccine battle of " corps," which is chiefly de- veloped in brisk afiairs of outposts. What man of the Line or Guards is not " down " on the Engineers ? What Engineer has recovered the mortal wounds inflicted on him by lazy soldiers who would not work in the trenches ? Is not that "' confounded Kaval Brigade, that gets all the praise," an eyesore and a stumbling-block to the ill-used siege train ? Ai-e not the in- fantry tickled with ironical mirth at the notion that the cavalry have done anything? Are not the cavalry wroth that they should have been turned into di'aymen, porters, and hewers of wood and drawers of water for the infantry dm-ing the winter ? The Eoyal Horse Artillery have similar grievances. As to the contests between Commissariat oflBcers and Land Transport officers, if smothered by official forms they blaze below the paper. The defunct navvies waged liorrida hella with the Commissariat department also. The Quartermaster- General's department is trying to do as little as it can to comply with the large requests of the Ai'my Works Corps, and the railway interest and the road-making are by no means on the best pos- sible terms. The Ambulance Corps, while it still existed in the body, was savagely tickled up, probed, walked into, reported upon, and attacked by the doctors ; and as to the method pur- sued in higher quarters — we are afraid to reveal the battlefields ■whereon so many of our soldiers perished in times gone by ; — " Tantsene animis coelestibus irse ?" There is one part of Sir George Brown's speech to which, though of no overwhelming importance, I must in the interest of truth refer. The General speaks of the beauty of Varna, and of its park-like scenery, adducing these as presumptive evidence 236 SIGNS OF A MOVE, that it was healthy. Now, Varna is by no means beautiful ; nor is the district close to it remarkable for any such scenery as Sir George Brown, in his poetical enthusiasm, describes ; but his language is applic^able to Devno. If it was reallj' in- tended for Varna, one can only say that the Light Division had very little to do with the place. But does not Sir George Brown remember that Dr. Hall, at Lord Raglan's request, went out to report on the site of the camp at Devno, and that he at once condemned it the moment he saw it, and sent in a report, which Sir George in his obstinacy ignored, till he was forced to break up his camp, and retire in confusion and dismay by the attack of the cholera ? At present the troops are in excellent health: Our strength is very considerable. It is almost as numerous as that with which the Duke fought the battle of Vittoria. The infantry numbers 27,000 ; the cavalry 3,500 ; the artillery 9,000— in fine, General Simpson has under his command not less than 38,000 effectives of all arms. There are few matters of complaint ; but an army is an insatiable creature, and its providers must be as thoughtful and foreseeing as ants. Supplies must come in beforehand in prodigious quantities, or we are starved out. A pile of stores disappears in a day. To all commissai'iat officers in charge at Balaklava it may be well said — " Nulla fronti fides" — "Have no faith in the front." When we hear of deficient harvests and of a want of bi'ead- stutfs at home, the recollection of the enormous quantities of wheat and corn destroyed at Kertch seizes upon our minds. At the time it seemed wasteful, almost wicked, to burn this corn, when we were bringing food at enormous expense from England and every country in the world. We are now sending agents to America to buy breadstufls. Could not Sir George Brown have managed to carry away a few of the millions of pounds of the precious article which were destroyed so reck- lessly P Verily, there is a Nemesis springs out of such deeds sooner or later, and ruin has not been long in attaining a dan- gerous maturity. We have been obliged to borrow flour from both French and Sardinians — but then, it must be remembered that we consider it necessary to give our men bread four times a-week, though the French are contented if they get bread once a- week. Our stock of rum is exhausted. The rum-ships have not come in, and at present the whole army is drawing its supplies fi'om the commissariat stores of the 4th Division, where BAD TOOLS. 237 Captain Dick, Land Transport Corps, and Deputy-Assistant Commissary-CJeneral Uarlee bad accuniiilated rum I'or their men for seventy days. As an instance of other deficiencies, I may mention that the butchers cmliarked for tlic commissariat of the expedition have no implements to carry on their trade with, and tliat they can- not procure them in the camp, even though they were willing to pay for them. In the same way the soldiers on the roads have scanty and inadequate tools to work with, and those used during the siege by the army are worn out. Captain Foster, who is in charge of the Croat and civil labourers, will be obliged to go down to Constantinople in a few days to purchase tools, and, instead of getting good ai'ticles from England, we spend money and time in trying to repair those which are really use- less. The Sappers' tools, which have been handed over to the naen employed under the Army Works Corps here, are all that could be expected of them. But what are these evils when compai-ed with those endured by our adversary ? True, indeed, that of the condition of the llussian army encamped on the Belbek nothing certain is known in camp, but the generals have means of information, the action and the results of Avhich are not divulged. Now and then one gets a glimpse of the world beyond the adverse sentries. The pickets bring in some foot-sore, ragged, emaciated, sickly-looking deserter, who tells a sad tale of want and sutiering. Is he a Dolon or not ? That is the question. The deserters who come in to the Sardinians are sent to our head-quarters ; those who surrender to the Turks are brought to the French Q,uartier General. The last two who arrived at General Simpson's were a Pole and a Russian, and both were in such a condition as to excite the liveliest compassion among our soldiers. Their clothes were in rags, and the fragments of their boots scarcely clung to their feet. They came from the army near Baidar, and they stated that all the men were in the same state ; that all they had to eat was bread or biscuit and barley, and that they get no meat, and had only occasional issues of quarter rations of vodka, or spirits. Their otficers told the troops that the allies were starving, and had no forage for their horses ; and these two men were observed to laugh and throw up their hands in surprise as they passed the great piles of pro- visions accumulated at our depot on the Col. They said tliey were laughing at the lies which had been told to them. They 238 SIGXS OF A MOVE. were in sucli a forlorn state tliat Colonel Blane, the kind and feeling commandant of the head-quarters' camp, sent down an active and intelligent non-comniissioned officer, Sergeant Gilles- pie, of the Provost Marshal's department, under whose imme- diate control all prisoners are placed, to the Russian stores at Sebastopol to get them great-coats and clothing, but he could not find any boots, and it was observed that no boots were in store when the place was taken, and that the prisoners were very badly shod. This is very unusual with Russian troops, and shows the straits to which their army must be reduced. Wlien the place was evacuated the English took sixty-two pri- soners, many of whom were drunk and asleep amid the ruins of the houses, and they were all badly dressed and ill provided with shoes or boots. The wounded men taken in recent affairs of outposts by the Sardinians are in the same sad state, and the fact appears evident that the Russians are rapidly de- clining in condition and in external efficiency. The men state that they get 31b. of bread or l^lb. of biscuit a-day, and a little tarley, which they bod into a kind of soup ; this constitutes their rations. Now and then, as I said before, they receive a small allowance of wheat or barley brandy. They are kept alive by assurances that the allies must soon go, and then they will have (poor deluded creatures !) the spoils of the English camp, which is rich in everything but food. Most of these men are exceedingly tractable, and they are found to make excellent servants at head-quarters, so long as they are not al- lowed to have rum. They are obedient, hard-working, and easily contented, and their masters all speak highly of them. Since the war began we have had nearly 1000 of them at head- quarters, and very few of them have belied that character. One of them, a Polish non-commissioned officer, was of great use as a spy, but he was seized with an unconquerable desire to join the Polish Legion at Varna, and had got as far as Odessa, when he was recognised and shot as a deserter. There are many races in the Russian army, but none seem willing to desert ex- cept the Poles, and the number of these disafiected soldiers who have come over to us is very small indeed. In reference to a paragraph which you published from a con- temporary, classifying the regiments engaged in the attack on the Redan into English, Irish, and Scotch, in accordance with the names each of them bears, I can assure you nothing can be more fallacious than any deductions fi'om such data. It is not THE CRIMEAN MEDAL. 239 by any means true that each regiment consists in most part of natives of the province or county from which it derives its name, or that it is even raised in tliat part. For instance, a large proportion of the 41st Welsh are Irish, and that regiment till lately has been recruited in Ireland, but now orders have been issued to raise men in Wales, where the character and reputation of the regiment may at present exercise greater influence in procuring recruits. The 77th, which is called the East Middle- sex Ilegiment, is composed almost exclusively of Irishmen ; the 30th, or Cambridgeshire, also contains a very great number of Irishmen ; and the 9()th, or Perthshire Volunteers, has quite as many men from Tipperary as from the shire it is named after. The same remark is true of many other regiments engaged ; but there are very few Irish in the Rifle Brigade, still fewer in the Highland regiments, and least of all in the Guards. The 21st North British Fusiliers contains many Irish and many natives of Gloucester and Somersetshire — in fact, a regiment is constituted of natives of the districts into which it sends its re- cruiting parties and with which it has, as it were, a comiexion, so that you will find a great number of the Royal Artillery come from the north of Ireland, and of Riflemen from Kent, and of Marines from the Midland counties and seaport towns of Eng- land, and of the 71st Highland Light Infantry from Glasgow. The names of the killed and wounded, though by no means a certain or accurate index of the districts from which regiments are recruited, generally furnish bases for a tolerably just ap- proximation to the truth. Considerable excitement exists among the crew of the Diamond at finding themselves excluded from the Crimean medal. They have been employed on shore since the commencement of the siege, assisting the operations of the army and supposing them- selves attached to it, and were thus excluded from all the honours of the navy. They have toiled without ceasing through the whole winter, and have been under arms whenever the Russians advanced on Balaklava. They fail in obtaining their medal simply because they are nobody's children. They are not returned as engaged with the navy, neither do they ap- pear on the muster roll of the army. The small part of the crew serving in the batteries before Sebastopol obtain the medal, but the majority, who were at Balaklava and the batteries about Balaklava, do not. 240 SIGNS OF A MOVE. October 3. General Simpson was this day presented by the Sultan's envoy with the Order of the Medjidie of the First Class, and with a magnificent sabre of honour incrusted with diamonds and precious stones, and Marshal Pelissier received a similar mark of the consideration of the Ottoman Porte. It is fair to believe there was some sort of ceremonial at our quiet and un- ostentatious head-quarters on the occasion. The Admirals came over from Kamiesch and breakfasted with the General. Lieu- tenant Geneste came down on board one of the small war steamers fi'om the northward to Kamiesch, and visited head-quarters. He was exchanged or delivered up a few days ago by the Russians, who have treated him with their usual politic kind- ness. The weather is dark, and the clouds are lowering to-day. A strong wind, amounting to half a gale, blows at times, mingled with rain. Everything is in readiness for the expedition, ex- cept the sea. October 4. The first brigade of the Fourth Division marched down to Kazatch this morning, and proceeded to embark on board the ships, to which they were told off as speedily as circumstances jjermitted. They were minutely inspected by Sir Henry Ben- tinck, K.C.B., commanding the division, who delivered a few words of advice, kindly meant and well received, before they left. Brigadier-General Spencer, commanding the expedition, accompanied them half-way towards the port. The brigade is in very fine order, and forms a body of 3300 men, many of them tried soldiers, and others fine strong men, able to do anything, and in high spirits and courage. The Royal Marines began to embark on board the "St. Jean d'Acre," which came round outside Balaklava for them, and the P. Field Battery, Captain Johnson, moved down to embark on board the ships told off for them in the harbour. October 6. The preparations for the expedition and the embarkation of the artillery and stores continue. A large body of the Royal Marine Light Infantry, so long encamped on the heights of Balaklava, were marched down to-day to the water's-edge, and followed their comrades on board the " St. Jean d'Acre" outside, to which they were conveyed in the " Wallace" steam-tug. Her Majesty's steamer " Triton," Lieutenant A. D. W. Fletcher com- manding, received orders to prepare to join the expedition, and HARMLESS CANNONADES. 241 Captain Leopold Heath, E.N., the Superintendent of Transports, shifted his flag to the " Bucephalus" transport, attended by his secretary, Mr. Barrs. The " Ivipon" still remains outside tlio harbour, with the draughts of the Guards, of the 82nd Eegiment, and of the Land Transport Corps, on board, as there is no room for her until the " JMedway" or some other vessel of equal size moves out. The " Telegraph" is discharging a portion of her cargo of navvies belonging to the Army Works Corps. It has looked like rain all day, but only a few gentle showers have fallen. Early this morning it rained heavily at intervals, and Balaklava was uncomfortably muddy all day in consequence, but the sea is calm, and the wind has subsided. There are encouraging reports respecting the progress of the French towards the plateau of the Upper Belbck. In the front nothing is doing except the ordinary road-malcing, and the extraordinary drilling. The Russians keep up a slow, steady fire on the town, to which the French reply with their wonted alacrity, and the duels between the individual batteries sometimes swell into can- nonades, but not much harm is done on either side, except the knocking up of earth and stones, and some trifling casualties. The repetition of these sounds is in itself sufficiently oflensive, when we fondly hoped that we had heard the last Russian gun from Sebastopol. Throughout the night the well-known flashes light up the sky, and the twinkling, revolving fuses stiU indicate the course of the shells, which look like so many shooting stars. The enemy are engaged hutting themselves and removing their stores towards the great depot between Inkermann and the Belbek. A strong body of cavahy was seen moving north- wards towards Simpheropol in the afternoon, accompanied, as usual, by a force of field guns. VOL. II. 242 PREPARATIONS FOR AN EXPEDITION. CHAPTEE XXV. PEEPAEATIONS FOR AN EXPEDITION. Bad tools — The borrowing system — The Army AVorks Corps, and their model tents — Spoil from the town — Trophies — Forts Alexander and Nicliolas not indestructible — Inferior nature of the material of which they are constructed — The Catherine Boulevard of Sebastopol — Com- munications with the Russians — Their account of the ciipture of the Malakhofi' — Necessity of teaching our soldiers to work — Inferiority of our troops to those of France and Russia in this respect — Truth of the saying, " More battles are won by the spade than by the musket" — Dissatisfaction of the French at not receiving the clasp for their share in the battle of Inkermann — An Interchange of honours between the two nations desirable — General Simpson's despatch respecting the operations of the 8th of September — Affability of the French autho- rities — The contrast afforded by the conduct of our own — The Adjutant- General — Extract from a circular addressed by the Duke of Wellington to all commanding officers of divisions and brigades, dated Freuada, November 28, 1812 — Excellent cooking-houses and kitchens of the 19th and 48th Regiments — Preparations for the expedition. Before Sebastopol, October 6. There is not much to be said respecting the actual proceedings of the army, which at present mainly consist in preparations for the winter on the plateau before Sebastopol, in dismantling the ruined houses of the city for wood, and in destroying the trenches for the sake of the gabions, which burn very well and save fuel. The attention of all is directed to the secret expe- dition, the destination of which every one knows by this time, and I trust that my next letter may prove more rateresting than the present is likely to be. The road makes great progress. Upwards of 6000 men are engaged upon it daily, and if Mr. Doyne could procure more tools from the Quartermaster-General the work would go on still faster ; but the fact is, that he experiences considerable difficulty in getting the authorities to comply with his requisitions, although he handed over the materiel of the corps to them when he arrived in the Crimea. Labour is, however, ample, and is not denied; the tools which have been issued to Mr. Doyne are worn out and worthless, and we are guilty of the very bad economy, in a country like this, where skilled labour costs so much, of repairing implements which have been damaged or used up, instead of issuing new ones. Many of these tools belong to the Engineers' depart- BLUKS AND BLOTCHES. 243 ment, and have been completely worked up by the Sappers and Miners during the siege. It can scarcely bo credited, but I am assured it is a fact, that the butchers belonging to the Com- missariat who have just gone on board the " Indian" to accom- pany the expedition, have not, and cannot for love or money procure, high or low, the weapons of their trade. No, we are not perfect even yet. Though Sebastopol is ours, there are little blui's and blotches which might be removed from our administrative escutcheon by very small labours. We borrow flour from the French, and we borrow flour from the Sar- dinians, and, indeed, as we are liberal lenders, they cannot com- plain of our making such small requisitions upon them now and then. Our stock of rum runs so short that the regiments in front are di'awing upon the depot of the Fourth Division for their supplies. AVliat would a run of bad weather do ? One eighth of our troops are still without huts ; and the very latest and most improved corps sent out, with all the modern improvements — the Army Works Coqjs — were provided with model tents, which in a few weeks were so thoroughly annihilated, that there is scarcely one left among the corps. To get requisite tools for our Croats and labourers, Captain Foster is obliged to leave his duties for the time, and go to Constantinople for implements of Tm'kish manufacture, which I can from personal experience declare to be bad, though nearly as good as om* own. Sebastopol is gradually coming up piecemeal to the camp. Doors, windows, locks, hinges, fire-places, stoves, pictures, chairs, tables, beams of wood, roofing, ceiling, flooring, sheet-lead, rolled copper, cut stone, crockery, and innumerable articles of every description, are brought up by carts, horses, ponies, and by men, every day in great quantities, and are found most useful in the construction and ornamentation of our huts. Many articles of English workmanship abounded, and canary birds sang and flowers bloomed amid all the murky horrors of these blood- stained casemates. All the shot and shell are to be collected, and the French give their soldiers about ^\d. or M. for each 13-inch shell or large shot which they bring up to ceiiain depots indicated for the purpose. I am not aware if any effort of the kind is being made by oui'selves, but I suspect there must be, as the shell and shot between the lines are gradually disap- pearing. The thousands of tons of iron which cover the terrain for ten or twelve miles in length by five in breadth, are " worthy the attention of the speculative capitalist," or at all events of £2 244 PREPARATIONS FOR AN EXPEDITION. the Government. There are very few officers who have not got some trophies ; arms of various descriptions, great coats, and helmets are the most common, but pictures of saints, often embellished by the finders with grotesque adornments of mous- tachios, short pipes, and eye-glasses, and portraits of the late Czar, which have not quite escaped the spirit of improvement manifested by our soldiery, are very common. Although the Forts Alexander and Nicholas are nearly intact — a portion of the curtain of the former was blown in by the explosion, but the rest of it remains entire, and Fort Nicholas is but slightly injured — the Russians are resolved not to spare them, and the efi'ect of their practice upon them proves that the stone of which they are composed would not resist a lengthened and continuous fire at close quarters. In other words, if a line-of-battle ship could get alongside without being sent to the bottom, she would soon rip up Fort Alexander, or any fort, such as Fort Constantine, built of similar material. The enemy suspect that the French are making a very heavy battery behind Fort Alexander, and they shell frequently in that direction ; and knowing the posi- tion of their mortar-battery behind Fort Nicholas, they direct a pretty constant vertical fire on the guard behind that work. When their shot hit the stones at the angle of the fort, they gene- rally split and break the outer masonry. The stones are of white freestone, cut in long parallelograms, and if a shot strikes the middle of a block it generally splits it right through, so that a few heavy projectiles at any one point would speedily destroy all cohesion, and crumble the wall into a breach. Still, the forts ftre beautifully built, and are of very great strength, notwith- standing the inferior nature of the building material. They are all i-eared upon capacious vaults of solid masonry, and the case- mates, curtains, and parapets are of prodigious thickness, and of very superior finish and workmanship. As the debris of the place is cleared away, it is seen that the ruin and injury of our bombardment were not so great and complete as we imagined. The Catherine Boulevard enables us to judge of what it once was, and the cathedral, two or three churches, and the theatre could be readily restored to their proper uses ; indeed, I have heard that the French have celebrated high mass more than once in the former edifice. A boat from the " St. Jean d'Acre," under the charge of Lieutenant Lewis Reynolds, was sent round from Kamiesch some time ago to the harbour, and is now employed, whenever PARLEYS WITH THE KUSSIAXS. 245 a flag of truce appears, in communicating with the Russians. It was at tlie request of Prince (Jortschakoff that this was done. The Prince, being pleased to consider that the south side of Sehastopol belongs to the allies, sent to suggest that it would save much time and inconvenience if a boat was kept in the Dockyard harbour, near Fort Paul, so as to be ready to go out with or for communications in cases of armistice, several of which, relating to prisoners' property, exchange of letters, &c., have recently taken place. The Russians always come across in very well-appointed, handsome boats, manned with picked crews of well-di'essed, clean-looking sailors, and the officers sent on the duty are generally very accomplished linguists and agreeable men. They are, however, very strict and very sharp in their practice as regards flags of truce, being extremely jealous of the smallest informality, and quick in firing the in- stant the flag of truce is hauled down. They insist that the Malakhoff was taken by a surprise, and that all the garrison, except those who could get into the casemates, had gone oS" to enjoy their meals and midday siesta when the French rushed in ; but they admit that the town was getting too hot to hold them, and that our fii'e was too heavy to be much longer withstood. Had they possessed mortars with which to reply to our vertical fire, they say they would have held out for another year at least, " but the army of defence, with a deep seaway m its rear, with one flank menaced by a fleet and the other by the works at Inkermann, so that in reality its centre only was efiective, could not strategically resist an army of attack which had such advan- tages of position." Our neglected siege-train and Artillery and Naval Brigade, according to the Russians, took the town, as by their fire they made its defence impossible. During the last two bombardments from French and English, the garrison "lived in holes like rats," and the telling-oflf of reliefs and moving of reserves were always attended with danger and certain loss. It is to be hoped that our men in camp at Aldershott and the Curragh will not be merely drilled and manoeuvi'ed, but that they will be taught " to work" above all things. As labourers, our soldiers are not equal to the French, and are far inferior to the Russians. Our Engineers complain that the only regiments which work well are the Guards and some of the Rifle Brigade, and that the Irish and Scotch regiments do not know how to handle the tools used in military works. In fact, only those soldiers who were originally agricultural labourers, and were 24:6 PREPARATIONS FOR AN EXPEDITION. tlierefore used to the spade and pick, can get througli tlie labours usually required for the construction of approaches or defences. Herdsmen, gillies, sword-dancers, huntsmen, deer- stalkers, mowers, hodmen, mechanics, and town labourers, how- ever strong, active, and willing, and wherever they come fi-om, cannot use the implements which are put into their hands by the Sappers and Miners, and it would be exceedingly desirable to teach men who may be employed in such works how to work, and what to do with the tools. Was it old Turenne who said, " more battles wei-e won by the spade than by the musket" ? We win all ours by the bayonet and musket alone, and we cer- tainly suffered great loss and were exposed to much disadvantage from not being able to approach within 200 yards of the Redan, whereas the French got up to the abattis of the Malakhoff, and within 25 metres of the parapet. Our gallant allies could, indeed, spare more men to work, and could afford to lose more in the approaches, than we could. That their labom-s were not light, or their casualties trifling, we may infer from the fact that they lost no less than 64 officers of Engineers in the siege, of whom 30 were killed. And here I may say that some feeling of chagrin has been created among those noble and trusty allies of ours who came to our aid at Inkermann, that they have not received the clasp for that great action. This acknowledgment of their services on the occasion they were somehow or other led to expect. I have often heard their officers declare what satisfaction and pride they should feel in exhibiting an English decoration on their breasts. Their order of the Legion of Honour is filled by selection, and not by a wholesale pitchforking of classes ; every man of equal rank, no matter what his merit or demerit, gets the same reward as his neighbour. There is no doubt that immense satisfaction would be caused in both armies if an intercliange of honours could be arranged between the two nations. A strong hope and often-expressed belief that such an arrangement would be effected will meet a painful disappointment should it not be carried into effect. General Simpson's despatch respecting the operations on the 8th of September has given considerable satisfaction to the army. It is said to be judicious and well written, though very concise, and it afibrds evidence that the Commander-in-Chief can rise above the very dead level of the uninteresting General Orders which will make the records of this army intolerable to the OFFICIAL LITERATURE. 247 patience and not easy to the dig^estion of tlie most resolute and hardy antiquarian in times to come. Who will venture to pub- lish our past despatches ? And yet we have notable penmen at head-quarters, who are at their vocation night and day, and who injure their temper and manners by incessant scrivenery, the results of wliich are buried in the pigeon-holes of Whitehall, never to be seen even in the lively pages of a blue-book. The French authorities enter less into detail and exhibit less pen- manship, and are, perhaps, therefore, more polite and affable to strangers than our own good gentleman. If an Englishman presents himself at the French head-quarters, or makes any application in writing for passes to the trenches, or such slight facilities, he is presented with them at once, in a manner which enhances the value of the obligation. Should he write to the Adjutant-General of the English army, the chances are that he will never receive any answer to his letter, although his request be of the smallest kind, unless indeed he happens to belong to the dii minores, or possesses such recommendations as have full consideration in the eyes of that dignitary of the army. In fact, poor Colonel Pakenham has so much writing to do that he cannot spare time to reply to the most civil communica- tion in the world. I recommend amatem-s and travelling gentle- men, unless they belong to the privileged class of which I have spoken, not to trouble him. Procul ! oh ! procul este profani. You wUl get short Pythonic answers — it is well if they are nothing worse — to your verbal applications, and no reply at all to your letters. However, Colonel Pakenham is believed to be a good man of business, " a rare arithmetician," and a subtle " totter up" in addition ; he has industrious habits, is of a seden- tary disposition, has a studious turn in the matter of returns, regimental reports, and such-like Uterature, and is so far a most excellent and useful Adjutant-General. What does the anny want more ? And now — even now — It is not too late to reproduce a despatch of a very different character from those we read of in the London Gazette or in General Orders. It is, indeed, no less applicable to this army, now about to winter in the Crimea, than it was to another army when it was written, and the truths it contains are as patent and as pregnant with value and interest as they were nearly half a century ago. The writer says, — " I have no hesitation in attributing these evils — of irregu- larities, of bad cooking, and of want of discipline — to the habi- 248 PREPARATIONS FOR AN EXPEDITION. tual inattention of the officers of regiments to their duty, as prescribed by the standing regulations of the service, and by the orders of this army. " I am far from questioning the zeal, still less the gallantry and spirit, of the officers of the army ; and I am quite certain that if their minds can be convinced of the necessity of minute and constant attention to understand, recollect, and carry into execution the orders which have been issued for the performance of their duty, and that the strict performance of this duty is necessary to enable the army to serve the country as it ought to be served, they will in future give their attention to these points. " Unfortunately, the inexperience of the officers of the army has induced many to consider that the period during which an army is on service is one of relaxation from all rule, instead of being, as it is, the period during which, of all others, every rule for the regulation and control of the conduct of the soldier, for the inspection and care of his arms, ammunition, accoutrements, necessaries, and field equipments, and his horse and horse appointments — for the receipt, and issue, and care of his provi- sions, and the regulation of all that belongs to his food and the forage for his horse — must be most strictly attended to by the officers of his company or troop, if it is intended that an army — a British army in particular — shall be brought into the field of battle in a state of efficiency to meet the enemy on the day of trial. " These are the points, then, to which I most earnestly entreat you to turn your attention and the attention of the officers of the regiments under your command — Portuguese as well as English — during the period in which it may be in my power to leave the troops in their cantonments. The command- ing officers of regiments must enforce the orders of the army regarding the constant inspection and superintendence of the officers over the conduct of the men of their companies in their cantonments ; and they must endeavour to inspire the non-com- missioned officers with the sense of their situation and authority; and the non-commissioned officers must be forced to their duty, by being constantly under the view and superintendence of the officers. By these means, the frequent and discreditable recourse to the authority of the provost, and to punishments by the sen- tence of courts-martial, will be prevented, and the soldiers will not dare to commit the ottenccs and outraires of which there ai'e Wellington's circular. 249 too many complaints, when they well know that their officers and their non-commissioned officers have their eyes and attention turned towards them. " The commanding officers of regiments must likewise enforce the orders of the army regarding the constant, real inspection of the soldiers' arms, ammunition, accoutrements, and neces- saries, in order to prevent at all times the shameful waste of ammunition, and the sale of that article and of the soldiers' necessaries. With this view both should be inspected daily. " In regard to the food of the soldier, I have frequently observed and lamented in the late campaign the facility and celerity with which the French soldiers cooked in comparison with those of our army. " The cause of this disadvantage Is the same with that of every other description — the want of attention of the officers to the orders of the army, and the conduct of their men, and the con- sequent want of authority over their conduct. Certain men of each company should be appointed to cut and bring in wood ; others to fetch water, and others to get the meat, &c., to be cooked ; and it would soon be found that, if this practice were daily enforced, and a particular hour for seeing the dinners and for the men dining named, as it ought to be, equally as for parade, the cooking would no longer require the inconvenient length of time which it has lately been found to take, and the soldiers would not be exposed to the privation of their food at the moment at which the army might be engaged in operations with the enemy. " You will, of course, give your attention to the field exercise and discipline of the troops. It is very desirable that the soldiers should not lose the habits of marching, and the division should march ten or twelve miles twice in each week, if the weather should permit, and the roads in the neighbourhood of the cantonments of the division should be dry." Now, the writer of this " offensive production " was Arthur Duke of Wellington, and it is an extract of a circular addi-essed to all commanding officers of divisions and brigades, dated Frenada, Nov. 28, 1812. It was not the Duke's province to inquire into the reason of " this want of attention to the men " of which he complains ; but in a service in which there are only two captains in a regiment, and all the other officers except the colonel and major are boys who have seen but a few weeks' service, intent only on champagne, tarts, good grub, dog-hunts, 250 PREPARATIONS FOR AN EXPEDITION. and horse-races, it is not wonderful if the same thing occurs in the Crimea in Novemher, 1855. Sjjero meliora. It would he unjust to say that the British soldier has not admirable raw material provided by Government for him now, and many regi- ments possess most excellent cooking-houses, built under the direction of their officers. I was particularly struck by the nvimber and neatness of those of the 48th Regiment, and poor Colonel Unett, of the 19th, worked very hard in erecting some excellent kitchens for his regiment, and even invented a plan of baking bricks, manufactured out of the earth in the neighbour- hood, for the purpose. There is really very little news. General Simpson has refused the sabre of honour presented to him by the Sultan, as well as the Order of the Medjidie, till he receives the command and permission of Her Majesty to accept and wear them. The preparations for the expedition, of which I sent you a few details, continue. All the French and English troops are embarked. General Vivian, of the Turkish Contingent, with some officers of his staff, is on board the " Indian," but it is sup- posed he is only waiting for a passage to Eupatoria. where a portion of his force has already landed. The Light Cavalry ^Brigade, under Lord George Paget — the 4th, 13th, 12th, and I7th — will proceed at once in the same direction, to reinforce the French cavalry, consisting of the 8th Hussars, 6th Dragoons, aoid the 8th Dragoons. The secret expedition will leave Kamiesch to-morrow at noon. CHAPTER XXVI, The Highlanders under orders for embarkation — Departure of the Light Cavalry — Expeditions the order of the day — Freedom of the army from disease — Second summer — Probable destination of the expedition — Peaceful toils — The Russian fire — Domestic arrangements — Hutting and road-making — Dwellers in a camp — Drainage — Promotion of Colonel Windham— Lord William Paulet — Miss Nightingale — Expec- tation that the Russians will evacuate the North side — Conflagrations — Counter orders — Lord Panmure's telegraphic message — The expe- dition countermanded — Direction of the campaign by the home autho- rities, Sebastopol, October 15. A PLEASANTEE spot for a camp, in such sunny and delightful weather as we at present enjoy, could hardly be found, than the slope beyond the village of Kamara, on which the Highlanders HEALTH OP THE ARJIY. 251 have pitclied their tents, and whither materials for huts have already been sent in large quantities. Great, nevertheless, was the satisfaction of that gallant Division — now so long inactive — on learning two daj's ago that it was under orders to embark for Eupatoria. It was said the embarkation would take place to-day, but it will hardly be until Wednesday. Transports are reported to be wanting, but that is improbable, for Balaklava harbour is crowded with shipping to such an extent, that vessels which arrived on Friday morning had not obtained admission yesterday. It takes a little time to get the necessary land transport supplies, baggage, &c., on board, especially when, as in this case, the troops are ordered to take witli them as much of their heavy baggage as they can. From this we infer that they will probably winter at Eupatoria, and not necessarily be im- mediately engaged in active operations. On the other hand, the departure of the Light Cavahy, under Lord George Paget, would lead us to believe that fighting is meant. There can hardly be an intention of keeping them at Eupatoria all the winter, since stables are now in course of erection near Scutari, and on an island in the Sea of Marmora, which will be amply sufiicient to receive the whole of our cavalry and horse-artillery. It has, indeed, been positively stated that these are to be quartered there until spring. A large number of French (12,000 or 15,000) are to embark at Kamiesch, where, according to one rumour, the Highlanders are also to embark, as it is the nearest port for Eupatoria. Expeditions are quite the fashion of the moment, and had we the prospect of two or three months' fine weather, we should be bound to suppose that an important combined operation was about to be entered upon. But, judging from precedent and probability, two or three weeks must bring the campaign to a close. At present the weather is all that could be deshed. The sun, which renders that little kettle, Balaklava harbour, still oppressively hot, is tempered on the heights by refreshing breezes ; the ground is everywhere dry — the atmosphere pure and healthy. Never was our army, since its first landing, so free from disease as at the present moment. But this second summer may any day be brought to a close, and exchanged for a season of rain and tempest. It will be imusual, not to say extraordinary, if such be not the case early in November. Brief time, therefore, remains for the expeditions to carry out their objects, whatever those be ; but there will be abundant leisure, when the rain descends in the cascade-like 252 PREPARATIONS FOR AN EXPEDITION. fashion common in the Crimea, and the wind shakes our huts and blows our tents about our ears, for those in authority to regret the months wasted after the fall of Southern Sebas- topol. The five regiments of cavalry (4th and 13th Light Dragoons, 12th and 17th Lancers, and Carbineers), the Highlanders, and 12,000 French, are believed to be all bound for Eupatoria. Captain Montague's company of Sappers and Miners forms part of the expedition. This camp, recently the nearest to the briskest part of the siege, and into which Russian projectiles not unfrequently obtruded, is now tranquil and laborious, like some new settle- ment in Australian bush or America's back woods. Peaceful toil has succeeded the din of war. Except the cannonade from the north side, which is at times rather boisterous, not a sound IS heard that indicates the vicinity of a foe. The Russians, as if to vent their rage for their recent reverse, continue to pound away at intervals at the ruins of the town they have been forced to abandon. They do little harm to us, and might as well save their ammunition, which they often condescend to expend even on a single soldier, of whom they may catch a glimse, wandering among the broken walls or across the plain. Yesterday our old friend Bilbouquet, long silent, opened his mouth, and sent a couple of shot either at the works by Traktir Bridge, or at something he saw moving in the valley below his muzzles. To- day the Russian guns are nearly mute, and the stillness con- trasts strikingly with the uproar we were here so long accus- tomed to. The silence would be quite solemn did not the tap of the builder's hammer replace in some degi'ee the crack of the rifle, and the rumble of carts the roar of the cannon. The English army, convinced that it is to winter in its present camp, has set seriously to work to guard itself from the inclement weather from which it last year suffered so grievously, and to make itself as comfortable as possible. Officers and men are busy with domestic arrangements. Hutting and road-making are the occupations of the hour, and rapid is the progress made in both. Whenever we abandon this encampment we shall leave almost a town behind us. Strong wooden huts are springing up on every side, and here and there a solid stone dwelling is in course of construction. Lots of chimneys will smoke this Christmas on the heights before Sebastopol, and, doubtless, many a good dinner will be eaten on that day, and many a glass PLENTY AND COJIFOKT. 253 emptied to those memories and hopes of home which are the sole consolation for the many privations that must be endured, even under the most favourable circumstances, by the dwellers in a camp. It is now pleasant to contrast the sufferings of last winter — the cold, exposure, famine, and want of clothing then endured — with the prospect of plenty and almost of comfort during that which approaches, and to observe the activity that prevails in endeavours to make the most of the ample means supplied. The necessary roads progress rapidly towards com- pletion. Drainage is not neglected, and, indeed, it is a question whether it be not almost overdone. Some of the ditches, dug along each side of roads, and around stores, hospital huts, and other establishments, are of formidable width and depth, and of a dark night are likely to prove dangerous pitfalls to wanderers through the camp, especially if they have been taking "just one more tumbler" in the quarters of some hospitable friend. On the other hand, where the rains in this place frequently descend in torrents, and while the water sweeps down the slopes in sheets and Hoods, deep drainage is essential if we are not to live in a quagmii'e, as we hitherto have done as often as the weather has been wet. To the wholesome labour and activity that now pre- vail, as well as to tlie fineness of the weather, the healthy con- dition of the army is doubtless due. Last night's General Orders contained full confirmation of news that had reached us a few days previously — namely, the promotion of Colonel Windham to the rank of Major-General " for distinguished services in the field," and his appointment to the command of the Fourth Division, with which he served as Assistant-Quartermaster-General until he was named (less than two months ago) to the command of that brigade of the Second Division, at the head of which he fought so gallantly on the 8th of September. The fiat of the Horse Guards is in this instance stamped and confirmed by the approbation and applause of the army. Envy alone could grudge to General Windham the rank to which his judgment, coolness, and intrepidity, so fully entitle him. Lord William Paulet has assumed the command of the 2nd brigade of the Fourth Division, and occupies General Bentinck's old quarters on Cathcart's-hill, where, unlike the previous tenant, he may dwell quietly without risk of a cannon-ball plumping into his soup-tureen or tumbling into his bed. Miss Nightingale is at the Castle HospitaL 254 PREPARATIONS FOR AN EXPEDITION. Tuesday Morning. Late last ni;^]it a memorandum was issued, to the effect, that from to-day (the 16th) until further orders, the whole of the ai'my should be under arms at half-past 5 a.m., and remain until dismissed by generals commanding divisions. Working parties, for railways, roads, &c., will come on duty at 9 instead of 8 A.M., this delay is granted in order to give the men time to breakfast and refresh themselves after the turn-out. There seems to be some expectation that the Eussians intend evacuat- ing the north side. They yesterday made a great fire on their left of Fort Catherine. It is supposed they were burning stores. They had a large depot of coal just about the place where the fire was. On Saturday night the reflection of an extensive con- flagration was visible fi-om the camp, and might be still more plainly seen from higher points in this neighbourhood. It was in the direction of Bakshiserai. We are still in ignorance of the cause. The Highlanders have received counter orders. Some say that the 2nd and 3rd Divisions will go in their stead ; others that the expedition is entirely abandoned, except as regards the cavalry, which have actually gone, that is to say — all, or the greater part. 12 O'CLOCK. The expedition to Eupatoria has been countermanded, in con- sequence of a telegi'aphic message from Lord Panmure, to the effect that the Russians meditated an attack. Inkermann is the quarter in which it seems to be expected. It is difficult to say what the Russians think to gain by attacking vts now. The fire seen on Saturday night is believed to have been at a village about three miles on this side of Bakshiserai. Such, at least, is the result of the calculations made by our engineers, who took an observation at head-quarters and another at Balaklava. They have thus ascertained the spot with tolerable accuracy. Of the expedition to Eupatoria the following troops are countermanded — viz., the Highlanders, two batteries of artillery, and the company of Sappers. The cavah-y has sailed. I have not yet heard whether they are to proceed, or whether they will be brought back. They were ordered to embark several days before there was any question here of sending other troops. NEWS FROM KINBUEN. 255 CHAPTEE XXVII. News of the Kinbum expedition — The accuracy of Lord Panmure's infor- mation, rt'hitive to a projected attack by the Kussiaiis, questioned — Another telegraphic report — Xo signs of a Russian retreat — Our inaction — Sebastopol — Dangers of visitiiig tlie town — Disabled cannon — For- midable appearance of the Redan and the Malakhoff — Russian hiding places — Sebastopol literally riddled with shot — Strange effects of the bombardment — News of the repulse of tlie Russians at Kars — Tho victory at Kars and the capture of Kinburn great triumphs — Why was not more attempted ? — A head to devise wanting — Rumours of a Russian advance — French review — Labours of Mr. Doyne, superintendent of the Army Works Corps — New roads — Mr. Doyne's plan for stations and police — Review of the French army — The Imperial Guard- Grenadiers, Chasseurs, Zouaves, Engineers, and Artillery of the Guard in brilliant array — Admiration of the English officers for the Chasseurs and Zouaves — Lieutenant-General Sir Henry Bentinck's testimony to the good conduct and services of the gallant Fourth Division — Irre- gularity in the delivery of newspapers by the post. Sebastopol, October 20. Waudebeks abroad are genei'ally longer in giving news of their whereabouts than anxious or impatient friends at home think reasonable and right, and accordingly when eight, nine, ten, and even eleven days elapsed without intelligence arriving from the Kinburn expedition, all wondered and many were uneasy. General Simpson being among the latter. Yesterday morning, however, we were all relieved and gladdened by learning the capture of Kinburn and the blockade of the Dnieper, the news of which came by telegraph via Varna. We have few details, but the Russians apparently offered considerable resistance before sur- rendering. In General Orders last night the little that has been ascertained was communicated to the army, and before this letter reaches England, you will probably know much more on the subject than we do at present. Here, at Sebastopol, nothing has been going on, and, in the absence of events, we are left to reflect upon the past, and to speculate on the future. In the hasty lines I added to my last letter, just before post hour, I mentioned that the projected expedition to Eupatoria had been given up, an attack upon our own lines being expected. Accord- ingly, since then we have been turning out before daybreak every morning, and occasionally at other hours also. Late on. Wednesday night the reserve ammunition was warned to be ready early in the morning, as there was every probability of an attack. On Thursday forenoon the French were formed up 256 PREPARATIONS FOR AN EXPEDITION. in the Valley of the Tchernaya, awaiting a foe who came not. Yesterday, about noon, movements of troops were made ; and it was reported that large masses of Russians were visible. There is much note of preparation and the frequent clash of arms, but nevertheless many here are of opinion — some of them persons whose opinion has weight — that our Muscovite friends have not the remotest idea of attacking us, and that Lord Panmure's information to a contrary effect, derived from Berlin, proceeds, in fact, from St. Petersburg, or at any rate from friends of our enemies, who desire to prevent us from taking advantage of what little fine weather remains to undertake fre;jh expeditions. If this be the case, how heartily the Russians and their underhand favourers must have laughed when they heard of the trip to Eupatoria having been abandoned ! On Wednesday the telegraph brought fresh information, originating from Vienna, to our head- quarters, which was to the effect that the Russians were about to abandon the north side. At present there are no visible signs of such approaching evacuation, nor is there any probable reason to assign for it, excepting one, which is, that the Russians find it impossible to supply their army during the winter. On this point opinions differ widely. Some think that the Russians will experience no difficulty in bringing enough supplies by the road from Perekop ; others doubt that road being sufficient, and are also of opinion that the Russian means of transport will run short. It is pretty certain that no large depot of provisions exists near at hand, and also that none ever existed, not even at the commencement of the siege. Last winter the Russians, — who doubtless never contemplated a siege of anything like such duration, nor probably an attack at all by land, and had made sure of speedily beating off" any naval force brought against their great fortress — had a constant stream of supplies pouring into the town. It may be urged that they have taken advantage of the summer to lay in stores ; but the drought of that season is as unfavourable to such an operation as the wet and cold and heavy roads of winter ; and, miless by camels, which can do but little, transport continues very difficult. Taking a fair and un- prejudiced view of all the chances and probabilities, I do not think they can have done more than make the supply meet the demand ; and even that, we have reason to believe, at times but scantily. Their loss of beasts of draught and buiden must have been prodigious, and the wear and tear of their ill-made carts proportionately large. The chief motive for striving to A CURIOUS SPECTACLE. 257 retain their present position probably is that, in the event of negotiations for peace being carried on this winter, these would be conducted more favourably to them whilst they still have a footing in the Crimea than if they had moved out of it, leaving us to garrison Sebastopol and Simphcropol, and, if we chose, to transport our army to the Danube and to Asia. In Sebastopol itself there is nothing new. The Russians continue firing at the town, with little reply from the French. They tire principally at Sebastopol Proper, but now and then drop a shot or shell into the Karabelnaia, and sometimes take the flagstaff on the Malakhoff for their mark. It is difficult to understand why we spare them so much, unless it be that we expect them soon to walk away, and leave us their north side forts in good order and condition, which would be expecting rather too much. There can be no difficulty in forming batteries of heavy guns, with which to knock some, at least, of their defences about their ears. Outside the town the French are hard at work levelling their siege works, filling up trenches, &c., though why they should take that trouble it is hard to say, unless they contemplate the probability of Sebastopol being garrisoned by the allies, and they, in their turn, besieged by the Russians. Visitors to the exterior works continue to be occa- sionally pretty numerous ; fewer persons go into the town, the fire, which sometimes is really heavy, rendering a visit un- pleasant. A more curious spectacle is assuredly nowhere to be found than in the space comprised between the lines where our batteries once stood and the harbour of Sebastopol. The ground in parts is literally paved with shot sunk in the earth, above which the upper surfiice scarcely rises ; there are ditches and trenches in which they lie as thick as apples in a basket ; in some places numbers of them have been buried. You see them of ever}' size, from the huge 68-pounder down to the diminutive grape — ^jolly little fellows, of a pleasant vinous appellation, but very nasty to run against as they are passing through the air. As to the fragTnents of shell, you might macadamize roads with them — jagged, rusty bits of iron, infinitely various in size and form ; one thinks, as one looks at them, how many a stout and gallant fellow received his quietus from some of them before they fell to the ground after their diverging upward flight. Then you come upon ill-treated cannon, some trunnionless, others with muzzles knocked off", some burst into two or three pieces, and others bearing indentations as from the hammer of a VOL. II. S 258 PREPARATIONS FOR AN EXPEDITION. Cyclops. You walk up into the Kedan — into tlie Malakhoff, if tlie French sentries object not — and you marvel at the huge dimensions of those famous works, and feel more surprised at their having ever become ours than at their having so long resisted the utmost efforts of English and French. They are iiideed a medley of enormous earthworks, huge lumps of stone, heaps upon heaps of shot and broken shell and damaged guns, everything rugged and battered — a work of giants reduced to chaos. And then the gloomy, fetid bomb-proofs, in which for so long a time the stubborn Russians Im-ked — they are wretched holes, worse than most dungeons. A minutely accurate drawing of as much of the Malakhoif or the Redan as an artist could embrace at a view, would give a better idea of the natm-e of the difficulties which the besiegers had to surmount, than any attempted sketch of the fight. The state of the town itself is the best proof of the enormous loss the Russians must have suffered during this long and eventful siege, and especially towards the close, when no part of the south side seems to have escaped our projectiles. The place is literally riddled with shot. You come upon all kinds of fantastical shattering — houses still standing Avhich, according to all one's previous notions of support and balance, ought to fall to the ground ; walls with huge holes through them ; roofs in rags ; and everywhere, within and without the place, the ground is ploughed up into great holes, by the bui'sting of shells. The news of the repulse, and the very heavy loss sustained by the Russians at Kars, is fully confirmed. The English officers there are said to have highly distmguished themselves. This severe check, and the capture of Kinburn forts and the garrison, must be a great discouragement to the enemy. The success of the expedition makes one doubly regret that more has not been undertaken, and that so little profit has been made of the six weeks that have now elapsed since the capture of Sebastopol. It is manifest that we have ample means at om* command, and that whatever is ordered, withm reason, will be triumphantly executed by the zeal, skill, and courage of our officers and men, even though, as at Kinburn, our line of battle-ships have to be taken where there are but two feet of water under their keels. What is wanting is, a head to devise and decision and prompti- tude in command. It were unfair not to make due allowances for some difficulties and obstacles of which we know notliing. THE ARMY WORKS CORPS. 259 but we should be over-indulgent and over-credulous if we admitted that all had been done as it ought. 12 O'CLOCK. The enemy is said to be clearing roads through the brush- wood down from Mackenzie's Farm, and to have planted four guns to command the causeway across the marsh at the mouth of the Tchernaya. This looks as if tliey contemplated an attack in force along our line, but I persist in thinking that their apparent preparations for action are made merely for the purpose of" deceiving us. The Russians are the most patient and laborious people in the world for nises de guerre of that kind. The French hold a grand review at two this afternoon, in the plain by Kadikoi. They are now marching down — Imperial Guards, Zouaves, &c., all in fine order, and brilliant in appearance. Monday, October 22. Mr, Doyne, the indefatigable superintendent of the Army Works Corps, proceeds vigorously with his labom-s. Roads are being opened out in all directions. There are about twenty miles in progress. The pains that are taking with their con- straction and its excellence appeared almost superfluous to some of the military bigwigs here, but before we have got through our four months' winter they wiU probably change their opinion on that head. The number of men employed is very consider- able. To-morrow 8600 soldiers go on work, besides 1000 Croats and the Army Works Corps, which, notwithstanding its losses from sickness, still nmnbers 1000 or 1100 men, and expects to be reinforced from England to the extent of some himdred more. The want of proper system and organization which has been so often and deplorably exposed during this war and in this army, is here again visible. With diflerent ai'rangements half the men, perhaps a quarter of them, could do the work of the whole 10,000, and probably do it better, because they would be less crowded. The men employed to work should be camped near their work till it is completed, instead of having to march long distances to and fro. Thus, for instance, a regiment of the Third Division, at the furthest extremity of the camp, marches down daily to work at Balaklava, retiu-ning, at night, daily performing a distance of nearly fifteen, miles. Of com-se, this is just so much power of work taken out of the men, and the army is now fvill of boys, whose immature s2 2G0 PREPARATIONS FOR AN EXPEDITION. strength is not equal to a good hard day's work. It cannot, m fact, be got out of them, even though they had not to walk long distances to it. The only reason I can imagine for keep- ing the men, as many of them are kept, so far from their work, is, that if men go officers must go too, and we have all been making ourselves too comfortable up here, willingly to shift our quarters, even for a time. However, there is now no time to fight the battle of better organization ; the most must be made of what fine weather remains, and, in spite of all obstacles and difficulties, the work, by dint of numbers, progresses briskly. I hear that Mr. Doyne is desirous of having the roads divided into miles, and at every mile to have a station-hut and a lamp, with a corporal and two men to act as police. This is an ex- cellent plan, which may be carried out with very little trouble and expense, and will facilitate the portioning out of repairs and work upon the roads. Truly, with all these civilized innova- tions this nook of the Crimea will hardly know itself this winter. We hear nothing but the clatter of the spade and the thud of the pick, varied by frequent explosions of small mines, with which builders and road-makers get rid of the blocks of rock that impede their work, and on all sides one sees showers of fragments driven into the air, sometimes to the height of 500 or 600 feet, by the force of the powder. Besides working at the roads, parties are busy at various small jobs, clearing wells, &c. Water is again getting scarce, and, in the prevision of a possible continuance of the present dry weather, no large quantities are allowed to be taken from the tanks, except by order from the Quartermaster-General's department. As regards military operations there is literally nothing worth recording since my last letter. The Russians remain very quiet, and so do we. There is not much firing from the north side ; now and then some artillery officer, as if suddenly exasperated, jumps up in a fury, and fires half-a-dozen mortars at once ; but, as far as I can see, the French are not much annoyed by this, and scarcely take the trouble to reply. In the cavalry plain on Saturday afternoon our allies treated the Rus- sians to a fine view of the Imperial Guard. General M'Mahon, having assumed command of the corps d'armee of resen^e, passed it in review. I rode down there after sending off my despatch, and the sight was certainly very fine, and highly creditable in every way to the French army. Grenadiers, Chasseurs, Zouaves, Engineers, and Artillery of the Guard, were- BURIAL OF A SISTER OF CUARITY. 2GI clrawn up across tho plain In a long lino, tlirouj^li wliicli tlie general rode, followed by a numerous stall', to which Sir Coliu Campbell and a large number of English officers had temporarily attached themselves. The Grenadiers looked martial and im- posing in their long blue coats and lofty bearskins, the Chasseurs smart and active in their most excellent and service-like cos- tume ; the Zouaves, as usual, picturesque and effective. Those two corps, the Chasseurs and Zouaves, excite the warm admira- tion of our officers, and are probably the most perfect soldiers in the world — I do not mean in respect of fighting, although they are no fools at that, but with respect to all their military qualities and accomplishments, as well as to their di'ess and equipment, their powers of marching and endurance — every- thing, in short, that constitutes perfection in a soldier. They really looked magnificent on Saturday — an honour to their service, and a credit to the system and officers by which such soldiers are made. The day was fine, and of course ponies were put into requisition, and no end of scarlet jackets, interspersed with the blue frocks of the cavalry, might be seen converging from all points towards the parade-ground. One of the Eoman-catholic Sisters of Charity, Sister Wini- fred, has died of cholera, and was interred yesterday afternoon in a grave dug high iip the hill behind the General Hospital at Balaklava. She was followed to her last resting-place by the sui'viving sisters and Miss Nightingale, also by a few officers and a considerable number of soldiers and inmates of the hos- pital. Service was performed over the grave according to the Koman-catholic ritual. Although transmitted somewhat after date, the following testimony of Lieutenant-General Sir Henry FJentinck, to the good conduct and services of the gallant Fourth Division during the period he commanded it, will be read with interest, and deserves publicity :— Extract from Divisional Orders, datei> October 13. " Private and important family affairs compelling Lieutenant- General Sir H. Bentinck, K.C.B., to return to England, he can- not relinquish the command of the Fourth Division without expressing the great regret with which he does so. ■' Although he has only had the command of it for the short period of little more than four months (but during a very eventful period), he has witnessed with great satisfaction the 262 PREPARATIONS FOR AN EXPEDITION. maimer in which all ranks have conducted most difficult, arduous, and dangerous duties, with a spuit, energy, and good- humour not to be surpassed. " Having aheady expressed to Brigadier-General Gan'ett on his quitting the division, and to Brigadier-General the Honom-ahle A. Spencer and the First Brigade, on the morning of theii- departure on another expedition, his opinion of their services, it only remains for Sir Henry Bentinck to thank Colonel Wood, the officers, non-commissioned officers, and men of the Eoyal Ai-tUlery, and the commanding officers, officers, and non-com- missioned officers and men of the Second Brigade, for the assistance they have at all times rendered him ; and he cannot refk-ain from expressing his high approbation of the manner in which all ranks have done their duty to their Queen and country. " The Lieutenant-General begs to thank the Staff Officers of the division for theii" zeal and energy in the discharge of their duties, and he cannot conclude without expressing also his satis- faction at the manner in Avliich Dr. Roberts has performed his ; to the Commissariat Department and Land TransjDort Corps of the -division, to whom it is indebted for their supplies, and with a regularity seldom equalled, and reflecting great credit on the officers of those departments. " The Lieutenant-Cieneral has only further, in taking leave of the division, to wish it renewed glory, and he wUl always feel the greatest interest in its proceedings generally, and of the regiments composing it particularly. " By order, " G. Elliott, "Deputy -Acting- Adjutant-General." Complaints are stiU rife among the officers of this army con- cerning the great irregularity with which they receive the news- papers sent to them from England and elsewhere. I impute no blame to any one, nor do I pretend to point out in which quarter the fault lies, but the evil exists, and is great and glaring. Making every allowance for irregularity on the part of senders, for the possible neglect or dishonesty of servants and newsmen's boys, there still remain numerous instances in which newspapers have positively been sent, and as positively have never been received. I hear daily grumbling on this account, proceeding from persons who receive letters from their friends, informing POSTAL IRREGULARITIES. 263 them that by the same post papers are despatched to their address, which never arrive. In short, complaint is general, and I am convinced it is well founded, and that a great number of papers, duly posted in England, do not come to hand in the Crimea — at least, not to the hands of the persons for whom they are destined. The ratio of loss is various ; some persons get on an average two out of three of their papers, others one out of two, others scarcely anj^ and I know cases in which officers are writing to England to discontinue theii- subscription to news- papers because they never receive them at all. The grievance is a vexatious one. We are now on the verge of winter. Days grow short, evenings long ; the rains are doubtless at hand ; and parades and out-of-door exercise and occupation are hardly to be thought of when the gromid becomes a morass. One of the greatest pleasures of a man out here is the receipt of news- papers from England ; and so you would say, could you behold how the fortunate receivers of them are beset. It is a cruel privation and disappointment when, by mismanagement in some quarter or other, they do not arrive. The matter ought to be seen to by all concerned. CHAPTEE XXVin. OFF ODESSA. The fleets at the first rendezvous — The departure from Kamiesch — A Black Sea fog — Orders and counter-orders — Danger of delay — Contrary winds and frowning skies — Odessa garrison on the qui vive — Probable results of an attack upon that town — Anticipations of future triumphs — Object of the expedition to occupy the forts at the mouth of the Dneiper — The forts Oczakoff and Kinburn described — Depth of water.^ Nicholaieff — Kinburn Fort — The defences recently erected by the enemy — Road between Kinburn and Cberson — Journal of events- Imposing appearance of the expedition as it lay off Kazatch and Kamiesch — French floating batteries — English portion of the expe- dition — Line-of-battle ships — Steam frigates, sloops, &c. — Smaller vessels — Mortar vessels — Steam tenders — Transports — Medical officers on board the " Orient" — Commissariat department — Departure — Odessa signalled as the rendezvous — Progress of the fleets — A collision. At anchor, five miles off Odessa, October 13. From causes which will be found at length in the diary I append to this brief summary of our proceedings, it will be seen that the admirals have hitherto been unable to leave their rendezvous, and that for the last five or six days the people of Odessa have been feasting their eyes to their hearts' content on 264 OFF ODESSA. this great armament. Possibly even his dread IMajesty the Czar may have had an opportunity of comparing the ships of Sir Edmund Lyons and of Admiral Bruat with those chefs-d'(xuv7'e of his own which he is so solicitous about that he will not allow them to leave Cronstadt. Should the present weather hold, we shall leave in the course of the afternoon for our second rendezvous and the scene of operations, which is generally known to be Kinburn, or more properly Kinbunm. The fleet left Kamiesch on Sunday, and anchored off Odessa on Monday afternoon. The object of selecting this bay aa the rendezvous was to fill the minds of the authorities with appre- hensions of a descent upon the town after a general bombardment, and to induce them to withdrav/ their troops from the neighbour- hood of the place we are going to attack. Tuesdaj' was spent in preparations for the sailing of the expedition, the recon- naissance and sounding of the banks off Kinburn having been effected previously by the " Spitfire ;" and on Wednesday the fleet would have got under way, so as to be in a position to attack the forts at daybreak on Thursday morning, but un- fortunately one of the dense fogs so common in the Black Sea set in, and precluded any attempt to move for the day. On Thursday, just as the steam gun-boats Were actually under way, the wind began to rise, and the weather looked so threaten- ing, that the Admirals ainiuUed by signal the orders for weighing. The fleet rode at single anchor through a stiff breeze, and at night the wind went down. Friday was a beautiful day, and again the fleet received orders to move, being preceded by the gun-boats, at one o'clock p.m., but the wind rose, and the sky darkened, just as the latter were weighing, and our departure was again postponed. As I write, 12'30, this day (Saturday), the wind being light ftom S.S.W., the barometer at 29"41, and the sky blue and cloudy, with an appearance of fog to leeward, the signal has just ieen made " Departure postponed for more settled weather." In order to secure success to the expedition it is necessary to have clear calm weather, and the least failure would give great encouragement to the enemy, and cause us to lose possession of a place of immense importance ; for there can be no doubt that if the attention of the enemy were drawn to the locality by an unsuccessful attack, they would turn aU their thoughts to it, and the position could be made of immense strength by sand and OBJECTS OF THE EXPEDITION. 205 earth batteries, and would be fed by all the resources of Russia Irom Nicholaieff and Clierson. The danfjer of these necessary delays is, that the enemy may discover our design, and suspeot that Odessa is not the object of attack. lie may observe that we do not avail ourselves of the favourable weather for operating against that city, for we could scarcely hope to have more auspicious winds than we now enjoy, were the fleet ordered to go in. It may also arouse his suspicions that we abstain from any movement, while the coixst to tlie north and east is a lee shore. The hovering of our light vessels oft" Cherson Bay may also have given him some idea of the character of the expedition. The garrison of ( )dessa, augmented by some columns which we have seen, and by others which possibly came in without being observed, is busily engaged in throwing up earthen batteries, and in strengthening the defences of the fortress on the south- eastern angle of the town. As for as can be ascertained, the fortifications are not of overwhelming strength ; but the enemy have erected some excellent casemated works,ncarly ajie}>r cVeau, and several very wicked-looking stone forts. These could, no doubt, all be battered about theii* eyes and ears, but the troops would keep beyond the line of fire, and we could not land with a small force in a large city defended by a numerous garrison ; so the only results of an attack would be the destruction of private propert}', the lives and limbs of people who must curse this war every day of their lives, and the infliction of injury on one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. I trust that it will be my fate to record a glorious termination to this year's campaign, and the revival of our old naval spirit and of our naval success. The reduction and occupation of Kinburn would be no mean or insignificant advantage, and, imdertaken as it is by officers like Sir Edmund Lyons, Admii-als Stewart and Bruat, and executed by this magnificent fleet, I can only believe in one result — that we shall take the place whenever we try to do so. The expedition has never been intended to operate against Odessa, but is to occupy the forts at the mouth of the Dnieper, ■with a view to carry out plans against the enemy which It is not now necessary to indicate more precisely. These forts are Oczakoff" on the north, and Kinburn on the south side of the entrance. The former is built upon a small promontory, called Oczakoif Point ; the other is situate on a long narrow spit of sand, which may be considered as the north-western termination 266 OFF ODESSA. of the extraordinary spit of Djarilgatch. The distance between OczakofT and Kinburn, across the entrance to Cherson or Dnieper Bay, does not exceed one and a quarter mile, and the passage up the Dnieper to Nikolaev winds close to Kinbum, and is not more than three-quai-ters of a mile from the forts. The fleet is now anchored not less than thirty miles from these forts, but a very extensive and dangerous sandbank, twenty miles long and of varying breadth, lies between us and the entrance to the Bug and Dnieper. This bank commences at the distance of about ten miles outside Odessa, and thence runs across nearly to Kinburn. The water on this bank does not exceed three fathoms, and in some places is even less, but up to the distance of three-quarters of a mile from the shore all round from Odessa to Oczakoff, the water is much deeper, and this belt of deep water is about three miles broad along its whole com-se between the shore and the great sandbank, formed by the con- tinuous deposits of the two rivers. At a mile from Kinbui-n the water begins to shoal rapidly from thi-ee fathoms in depth to a few feet. The entrance to Cherson Bay is guai'ded, as it were, by the island of Beresne, and numerous beacons and lights were formerly used to guide the mariner to the channel, which is difficult and tortuous. The coast is well provided with telegi-aphs. A number of poor fishermen live on the sandy spits about the Bug, and there are some large curing establishments near Kin- burn, and on the banks of the river up towards Nicholaieff. This city (the name of which is spelt by us in six diiferent ways) lies on the east bank of the Bug, at the distance of thirty-five miles from the forts. Cherson Bay, which is formed by the confluence of the Bug and Dnieper before they flow through the channel between Oczakofl" and Kinburn, is very shallow, the navigation of which is extremely dangerous and intricate, and the mouths of the Dnieper, which resemble on a small scale the debouchments of the Danube, are almost unknown to us. The Bug varies from three miles and a half to two miles iu breadth as far upwards as Nicholaiefi", below which a sudden narrow bend contracts its com'se, the passage of which is defended by formid- able works. Its depth is about three fathoms, but there are many sandbanks in the channel, which winds from one side to the other of the river, and a vessel would in any position be under easy rifle range from both sides of the stream at the same time. It is more than thirty miles from Kmburn to the entrance of the Dnieper, and Cherson is fifteen miles above the Ul-defined OCZAKOFP AND KINBURN, 267 boundary where the extensive marais through which the Dnieper, with many muddy mouths, eats its way to tlie sea, ceases to become part of the mainland, and is resolved into water. Persons who are endeavouring at home to connect this expedition with a demonstration against Perekop will be puzzled when they see that it is upwards of fifty miles from Cherson to the Isthmus, and that the crow's flight between Kinburn and Perekop, as he passes over the desolate Taurida — blealc, water- less, and lifeless — exceeds ninety miles. Kinburn Fort is a regular casemated stone-built work, mounting about forty guns- according to the most extreme calculation, some giving only twenty and others thirty-two guns — but north of the fort on the spit running towards OczakofF the Russians have very recently built two sand-batteries, the exact strength of which has not yet been ascertained. Oczakofi" Fort is supposed not to be very strong, but on the coast between it and the ferry, across the arm of the sea which runs up to Kesandria, the enemy have thrown up three small batteries, with heavy guns, one near the feiTy of three guns, and two of five and three guns respectively to the west of Oczakofi", which will bear upon the channel between that place and Kinburn. There is a good road along the spit between Kinburn and Cherson, which, according to the best charts, are about forty- eight or fifty miles apart by this route, and the retreating garrison will, no doubt, try to escape by that road ; but in all probability they will be cut off by the fire of the gun-boats across it, and at the same time our troops will be landed four miles S.E. of the fort, in its rear, so as to bar the escape of the fugitives, and to prevent any reinforcement arriving from Cher- son. The vast importance of retaining possession of this place, even thouglyDur men must suffer considerably dui'ing the winter months, cannot be overrated, and Russia wiU speedily find not only the Crimean ainny reduced to surrender or to die from starvation, but that a basis of operations against Nicholaieff and Cherson has been secured in her own territory by the arms of the conquering allies. The following is my journal of events :— Off SEBASTOPOii, October 7. All the troops, both French and English, having been on board for several days, and everything being in readiness for the departure of the expedition, the Admiral made signal at eleven 268 OFF ODESSA. to-day for the steamers to weigh anchor and proceed to sea. The allied squadrons, with a large flotilla of gun-boats, bomb- vessels, and small steamers, stretching in two linos in front of Kazatch and Kamiesch, must have displayed to the garrisons of the north side of Sebastopol a spectacle of portentous grandeur. We could see the enemy manning their battcri(!s on the north side, and their troops under arms in front of their camps, and it is most likely that they believed the allies were about to make a descent in their rear. It was indeed no ordinary sight. The French had four line-of-battle ships, several steam frigates, and a number of gun and mortar boats, but in addition to that force they had a formidably ugly armament of three floating steam batteries, although England, with all her maritime and mechan- ical resom-ces, could not aid her ally by even one of these tre- mendous fortresses ! Where is the " Glatton," of which we have been hearing for the last six months every week, and where are her lovely companions ; are they all withered and gone ? These French floating batteries, called the Devastation, Lave, and , are curiously unprepossessing in appearance, and are painted of a bluish stone colour, as if to increase the gloominess of their aspect. They show eleven or twelve ports a-side, and are understood to carry twenty-two fiftj'- pounders (French) each. They were crowded with men, and were remarkably steady on the water, but the French bomb-vessels and gun-boats roll heavily on the smallest provocation. The men-of-war had their ports triced up and guns run in, so as to give air to the soldiers between decks, and presented long lines of kepis and red trousers irom stem to stern. The day was very fine, and the wind was scarcely strong enough to blow away the black and white wreaths of smoke and steam from the funnels of the fleet as they slowly got into motion. Each steamer had a mortar-vessel or gun-boat in tow. At 11"15 the " Royal Albert" set driver and fore and aft canvas, and slowly forged ahead, followed by the " Hannibal" and the rest of the squadron ; the French division, led by the " Montebello," moving on in a parallel line with us, on the port or left-hand. The English portion of the expedition was constituted nearly as follows, at least so far as I could ascertain the names of the vessels and their respective com- manders : — ENGLISH FORCE. 269 LINE-OF-BATTLE SHIPS. Gun.s. Koyal Albert. Sir E." Lyons, G.C.B. &c., hiivinj; on board Brigadier • General Spencer command- "•« J Hannibal, Sir H.^ Stewart, K.C.B., I second in command J * Agamemnon . . . Algiers St. Jean d'Acre . . . rrincess Koyal . . . 00 so no 101 91 583 Captains Commandina W. R. Mends J. Hay . . , Sir J. Paslcy C. Talbot . , G. King . , L. Jones . . Troops on Board. 17th Kegt. 800 2l8t Regt. 670 20th Regt. .500 Royal Slurinerf. 80 .... I in all 1,030 63rd Kegt. 700 I SO 2670 ! 1350 STEAM FRIGATES, SLOOPS, ETC. Curai;oa 30 Dauntless 33 Firebrand 6 •Furious 16 Gladiator 6 Leopard IS Odin 16 Sidon 22 Sphinx 6 Spiteful 6 Spitfire 5 Stromboli 6 Terrible 21 Tribune 31 Triton 3 * Valorous 16 Vulcan 6 i E. Van Donop G. F. Hastings A. P. Ryder E. Ingleficld W. Loring C. Hillyar G. GifTard . . { I J. Wilcox r G. Goldsmith ■{ I A. Wilmott F. Shortt T. Spratt R. Hall J. M'Cleverty J. K. Drummond A. D. Fletcher C. Buckle Totals . 831 Left wing, 5 7th 370, and re- serve anunn- nition. Right vring, 57th 390, and reserve am- munition. * Joined the squadron at Odess.!. 270 OFF ODESSA. SMALLER VESSELS. Gun-boats. 1. Arrow . 2. Clinker . 3. Cracker 4. Fancy . 5. Moslem . 6. Lynx 7. Viper S. Wrangler 9. Ueagle . 10. Snake . Guns. 4 1 1 1 1 4 4 4 4 4 Commanders. Lt. W. K. Jolliffe. Lt. Hudson. Lt. Jlarryat. Lt. Grylls. Lt. C. M. Aynsley. Lt. H. Comber. Lt. Burgoyne. Lt. Howitt. Lt. Buckley. MOETAE-VESSELS — (CAPTAlN DIGBY COMMANDING.) Firm . Hardy Camel Flamer Magnet Kaven Lt. Leet, St. Jean d'Acre . riersou, Mate, Frincess Royal Vaugban, Mate, ditto . . . Lt. Creagh, St. Jean d'Acre Blunt, Mate, Algiers . . . Hunt, Mate, Hannibal . . Lt. Hewitt, R.M.A. Lt. Foster, R.M.A. Lt. Starr, R.M.A. Lt. Brookes, R.M.A. Lt. Pitman, R.M.A. Lt.Festing, R.M.A, Banshee. STEAM TENDERS, ETC. Danube. Brenda. TEANSPOETS. No. Freight, &c. Prince Alfred ... 126 . . Royal Artillery. Arabia 83 . . Forrest, Royal Artillery, &c. Orient 73 . . Medical Staff — Hospital Ship. Lady Alice Lambton . 99 . . Stores. Durham 179 . . Indian 197 . . M'Master, Commissariat Staff, &c. Charity 140 . . Civil Land Transport Corps and Com- missariat Stores. Colombo . . Methven, shot and shell, &c. Zebra 211 . . Fuel. Arthur Gordon . . .238 . . Stores. Dr. Gordon, in medical charge of the expedition, Surgeon Foaker, second in charge, and a number of medical ojEcers, embarked on board the " Orient," which was laden with mule litters and medical stores. The officers of the Commissariat Department embarked on board the " Indian " are Deputy-Commissary-General, in charge of the expedition, Tyrone Power, Assistant-Commissary-General Gumming, Deputy-Assistant-Commissary-General Sutherland, and Commissariat Clerk Eobinson; Lieutenant Wardlaw, and twenty Dragoons, Captain Nicholson, Lieutenant Gordon, and Lieutenant Scratchley, in command of the Sappers and Miners, PROGRESS OF THE EXPEDITION. 271 are embarked on board the same vessel, in which are also seventy Staff horses. Major Bent, Royal Engineers, in charge, is on board the " Eoyal Albert," where quarters are also provided for Brigadier-General Spencer and Staff. As the fleets drew off from the land, leaving behind them the forts of Sebastopol, both north and south, between which the usual daily duel of caimon and mortar was going on, the French went somewhat to the westward, and seemed to steer N.W. by W., while we kept on a course N. by W. The Admii-al made signal to the fleet that " the rendezvous " was to be " five miles S. by E. of Odessa," and it was immediately conjectured that the object of visiting that place was to induce the Russians to talce away their forces from Nicholaieff and Cherson, in the expectation of a descent upon them at Odessa. The speed of the sqiiadi-on was not very gi-eat, as most of the vessels had heavy boats in tow, and the signal was made from the Admii-al, " Steer four miles an hour — course N.W. by N." The " Triton " was ordered to keep close to the Admiral, and not to follow the signals of smaller vessels, and at 2"10 the flagship signalled that " the Admiral's course was no longer to be regarded by the fleet," but that they were to keep in their proper dii'ection, as already indicated. At four o'clock the "Triton" was ordered not to exceed four knots an hour, the Admiral's ship began to press on in front, and before evening was well in advance of the squadron, attended by a despatch gun-boat. The French, detained by their heavy batteries, made the best of their way on oui* port quarter. The night was fine, and the fleet moved slowly, and in extended order, for fear of collisions, but just before dawn the " Stromboli " made a slight dint in the huge bulk of the " St. Jean d'Acre," and carried away one of the latter' s boats, which has since been recovered. 272 OFF ODESSA. CHAPTER XXIX. At yea — Pleasant sensations — Land — Odessa in siglit — Beautiful appear- ance of the city — Esplanades, boulevards, and rows of houses — Spec- tators — Public buildinjrs — Domes, columns, steeples, and spires — Alarm in Odessa — Uussian infantry discovered marching in haste towards the city — The eternal Cossack — The telegraphs and signal stations — Flocks and herds — Arrival of the fleets — Tremendous force off Odessa — The " Viper" ordered to proceed to Kinburn to make the requisite surveys — Fog — Climpses of the shore — Formidable appearance of the fleets to the inhabitants of Odessa — Crowds of idlers on the esplanade — The gunners all ready at the batteries — The fog increases — Return of the active little " .Spitlire" — Sailing of the " Viper" countermanded — Consultation on board the French admiral's ship — Signals — A breeze springs up — Manoeuvres of cavalry and horse artillery on shore — Odessa quite at the mercy of our fleets — Why the city was spared — Horrors of a bombardment — Magnanimity of tlie allies. October 8. A HOT, briglit sun lighted up the round inirror of sea of which we were the centre this fine morning. The sea gives a poor human creatui-e a curious sense of his own importance. Where- ever it is not Lroken in upon by the land, it conc^edes to the vessel that has the honour of bearing him the position, or at least the sensation, of being the very centre and :iavel of the universe ; if it has not already smitten him down on some cruel deck or woe-begone cot, by its own peculiar protest against the arrogance of mankind. Although many big ships were near, and a great flotilla was moving lUl round the edges of our great cii'cle. Her Majesty's ship appeared on this fine Monday morning to be the central point on a bright, flickering, shivering mirror, fringed by columns of smoke, or framed in by the masts of the distant fleet, fine as cobwebs on the edge of some ancient cheval glass of Louis Quatorze. The French fleet Avas away hull down on the port quarter, the grand, showy, big tricolours at the peak .just topping the horizon, and the English fleet we could not see, for the reason assigned in the Critie, which I have never yet heard disputed, and shall therefore give in pre- ference to any other. About 830 something very like a three-decker under full sail, suffering terribly from refraction, came in view. A tail white column standing out of the sea. The haze gradually expanded as we advanced, and at last " land " was reported from the bows, and a hapless wight was despatched up into the clouds, to make any statements which might strike him as to the general configuration and THE PLACE OP RENDEZVOUS. 2lo geographical characteristics of the coast wo were approacliiny, and to look out for " the British fleet at anchor," or afloat, as the case might be. I am not aware that his information was important or curious, and he only confirmed the profound observa- tion of Sir Fretful Plagiary, after a lengthened sojourn among the sea gulls ; but, at about nine o'clock, even landsmen could make out " land " with good telescopes, and were obliged to abandon the secret joys in which they had indulged at the tlisappointment of the Quarter-master, when he found that " a Tegular fog-bank" had been mistaken by him for terra Jirma, and to admit that the " cloud," after all, was a " material guarantee " of the Czar, and belonged indeed to Russland. The canvas of the line-of-battle ship gradually resolved itself into a tall, snow-white pillar, some 200 feet above the level of the sea. which marks Cape Fontana, south of Odessa, and by degrees, as we rose the land, a white light-house, a guard-house, a Avhite telegraph-house and station, white farmhouses, white villa*; em- bowered in green trees, pagodas, minarets, domes, and church spires appeared in view, and clustered together, till we had a day-dream of Constantinople and Naples together with a dash of Boulogne in it, and Odessa came in sight. As I am neither a voluntary tourist, a universal gazetteer, nor a photographer, I shall not attempt to describe the city, which must, indeed, be well known to Englishmen, though few artists can do justice to it. These barbarous Russians have a rare knack of building graceful, light, cheerful, and clean-looking cities, which even the " Stones of Venice " might not utterly despise ; and, if it be distance which lends enchantment to the view, they have at least the satisfaction, denied to more civilized people, of saying there is one point of view from which their cities win the .senses. As we slowly drew up to our inevitable *' five mile.s S. by E. of Odessa," we passed a wonderful creation, which, compared to the slow ertbrts of oar ancient builders, seemed almost the work of enchantment. There stood an extensive city, built on the curve of a high sea-shore, with descending terraces and broad riights of steps to the beach, which was enclosed by broad quays and the walls of ports and ca,scmated batteries, all .shining brightly in the morning sun. Broad esplanades, or boulevards, lined with trees towards the sea-front, ran along the top of the bank, with a background of stately mansions, worthy of the best " rows " near the Regent's Park, and we could see a numerous and gaily-dressed crowd of men and women passing VOL. IT, 'f 274 OFF ODESSA. along the promenade, gazing on the dark clouds of smoke which were slowly drii'tmg in on them from the distance. Behind. and in continuation of this esplanade, are splendid residences, with pillared poiiicoes and ornamented peristyles, magnificent public institutions — the temples erected by Despotism to Civilization, in hope of making peace with her — barracks, palaces, governor's house, prisons, rising in front of a confused but graceful mass of domes, columns, steeples, and spires. One huge dome is of an intense ultra-marine blue, and is topped by a gilt cupola ; another is of bright green, surmounted by a golden star ; here is a Greek temple, there a Tartaresque-looking mosque ; there an unmistakeable " little Bethel," here a Byzantine church ; again, an Eastern mmaret-like spire ; further on, an indubitable Sir Christopher Wren steeple : and, next to it, a grand dome and cupola, which at once remind you of St. Peter's or St. Paul's. This beautiful city is surrounded on the left by woods, bestudded with the houses of Princes and Counts engaged in the corn trade, and of merchants deeply interested in the state of the English barometer. There is one dismantled three-masted vessel inside the port, but the quay at the upper end of the harbour encloses a considerable number of small coasting vessels ; and even now we can see some small boats creeping down for shelter along the coast under the batteries. At the distance of about three miles fi'om the town, we found the " Valorous " and " Furious" at anchor, and a French steam-squadron beside them of greater force, with an Admiral's flag flying from the "Asmodee;" indeed, the French vessels, to the number of four pendants from large steamers, and of ten pendants from gun and mortar vessels, had already arrived, or had preceded us. The esplanade was, as 1 have said, crowded with people. The city was as peaceful as a drop-scene at the theatre, but the operations of war were going on, nevertheless, and little could we tell what alarm, confusion, terror, and dread, dwelt within that beautiful city on which we gazed so placidly. As the first ship of the English squadron cast anchor, a long line of dust was observed rising over the hUly coast to the north of Odessa and by the beach, which is lined with trees and a thick hedge of bushes, and we soon made out bayonets glistening in the sun, and a strong body of Kussiau infantry, with field-pieces and baggage, con- sisting of some five or six thousand men, marching in all haste towards the city. Two small camps could be seen on the hill-side towards the north, and a part of this column halted AGITATION ON SHORE. 275 and encamped outside Odessa. A number of mounted officers accompanied the men, and some of them rode out through the gaps in the hedge, upon the beach, and reconnoitred the fleet, which was di-awing up towards the harbour. The eternal Cossacks were standing by their horses in groups of two or three, as videttes, beside the numerous signal and telegraph stations which line the coast at intervals, and are in connexion with a semaphore in Odessa, which was tossing about its arms like Niobe gone mad. Others were observed galloping over the fertile steppe, appearing and disappearing over the low lines of hills, and numerous herds of cattle all over the country afforded proof that we have exaggerated the general exhaustion of the enemy's resources, if any were needed in addition to the pros- perous appearance of all the white farmhouses and hamlets, with their enormous stacks of hay and corn ai'ound the homesteads. Some of the mhabitauts seemed to be moving away from the place by the north road, and many wagons and carts were visible going to and fro by the road to the northward. The French fleet approached towards their anchorage from the south at the moment that the top-gallant masts and smoke-wreaths of the British fleet peered above the horizon, and at 3-30 the " Eoyal Albert," followed at intervals by the rest of the ships, came up with signals flying for the anchoring of all at two cables' length, in order of seniority. This noble vessel let drop her bower iu 13 fathoms water, about three and a-half miles from Odessa, soon after four o'clock, p.m. The smaller steamers and gun- boats were then disposed of, the tows cast loose and secui-ed, and with the beams of the bright setting sun lighting up the whole of this tremendous array of batteries, with their polished muzzles grinning from inmunerable ports, the people of Odessa saw the fleets of England and France anchor in their bay, and exhibit to them upwards of eighty vessels of war, ready at a moment's notice to lay theu' homes in the dust. The evening passed quietly ; the Admu'al made but few signals, but it was linown that to-morrow nothing would be done, and that till the work of soundmg ofi:' Kinburn and laying down buoys for the fleet had been accomplished, the attack would not come off. The " Viper " received orders to start at dawn for Kinburn, whither the " Spitfire" had ah*eady proceeded, for the purpose of making the requisite surveys. October 9. The wind came round from the S.S.W. this morning, a; d t2 27 G OFF ODESSA. brought with it clouds, fog, iind vapours, which quite shut out the sun from us. The shore could not be seen in detail, and the day was so murky that we were unable to ascertain if the inhabitants of Odessa were " flitting," as the more prudent would assuredly do, with such a tremendous armada floating before them. The sky was of a dark leaden grey, and seemed surcharged with rain and storm. Now and then a solitary ray broke through this veil, and lighted up a patch of houses in the stately city, or illuminated bits of the sea-board, displaying for a moment the Cossack pickets and videttes on the cliffs, and snug farmhouses, surrounded by numerous stacks of hay and corn ; small detachments of troops on the march over the stei^pes, and eilwarjen, or lumbering Germanesque-lcoking diligences, traversing the coast-road, a few stray horsemen riding at full speed across country, and herds dotting the wide-spread plains. The fleet must present a spectacle full of grandeur and menace to the Odessans. It extends for the space of five miles in front of their town, — a dense array of hulls and masts, yards and rigging, which, seen from shore, looks, no doubt, as if it were one unbroken network of ships restmg on the water. The nine line-of-battle ships tower aloft in the centre, and the heavy steamers, gun-boats, bomb-vessels, and transports, to the number of sixty, fill up the intervals, and extend along the flanks of the flotilla. The esplanade in front of a magnificent pile of public buildings is covered with a crowd of people, among whom are many oSicers and soldiers and well-dressed women, and the gunners can be seen all ready for action, inside the parapets of the long low batteries which guard this Queen of the Euxine. These glimpses of the city were, however, infrequent, and were soon denied to us altogether, for down came the Black Sea fog, and wrapped us all in his clammy, unctuous, and chill embrace so closely that we could not see much beyond the limits of our own ship. The ever active and indefatigable little " Spitfire" joined the fleet this morning. She had been away somewhere or other taking soundings and bearings as usual, and her appearance is a sure sign that some place on the enemy's coast is to be favoured by a visit before long. Caj)tain Spratt no doubt had a useful little budget of information for Sir Edmund Lyons when he went on board the " Royal Albert," and it was probably in anticipation of his return that the " Viper" did not proceed northwards this morning. The Admiral sent a boat to countermand the " Viper's" sailing orders attiu'ce A BLACK SEA FOG. 277 o'clock a.m., and it is understood that to-day will be occupied ill council and in the arrangements for the execution of our plans. The " Colombo" came to anchor with the fleet early this morning, and the " Vulcan" troop-ship arrived about ten o'clock in the forenoon. The only change in position which took place was, that the " Valorous" and " Furious," which were l3'iug inshore of all the fleet opposite Odessa, signalled to the Admiral, one after the other, for permission to close nearer to the flagship, and on receiving the necessary order weighed anchor and moored in line with the other larger vessels of the steam squadron. In the forenoon Sir Edmund Lyons left the flagship in his barge, and was towed by the " Danube" to the French Admiral's ship, where he remained for some time. I believe Sir Houston Stewart accompanied him. Subsequently to the Admiral's return, he signalled to each ship to notify her draught of water. This was done accord- ingly by signal, and the people of Odessa must have seen dimly a brave show of bunting in our armada, as it required many flags to express the various draughts forward and aft of each ship. In the afternoon the wind freshened and the sea rose a little, causing that peculiar gi'ound swell which distinguishes this part of the Euxine. The fog settled down on the water about three o'clock, slowly descending from the sky above, and distilled itself into drops of rain, Avhich ran down the masts and fell from spars and rigging. Before it became so very thick, our only amusement had been watching the manoeuvres of a considerable force of cavalry and horse artillery, drawn up on the cliffs, about six miles from Odessa and three miles from our anchorage. These were evidently intended to act as a flying column of observation, and to march on any part of the coast which might be threatened by our troops. It consisted of four troops of the Lancer regiment, and, from the time I first saw it, at nine in the morning, till it was lost in the fog, it only moved once, and then it was merely to form in squadrons and trot, wheel round, and draw up in double line again. Now a few rockets would have put these gentry to flight at any time, but we did not seek to inflict use- less loss or annoyance upon the enemy. A gun-boat might have run in within easy range and shelled them at her leisure with the most complete impunity ; nay, more — had the Admirals desired to inflict such a great blow on Russia, who vaunts herself to be invulnerable, and who boasts that, Antatus-like, she acquires fresh strength from every overthrow — they could have 278 OFF ODESSA. burnt and destroyed the whole of the beautiful city which has been created by the expenditm-e of so much labour, time, and money, without incurring the risk of losing a ship or of causing the loss of any life, except among the hapless inhabitants. The mortar-vessels, gun-boats, and floating batteries might have easily gone close enough to pour long range shot, rockets, and bombs, into the town, without the chance of being hit by the enemy, save by great luck. The city could not be missed, but it is very nice practice to hit a long low black line — a snake in the grass, wheeling and twisting about — at a distance of 2500 yards. Such, however, was not the policy or the feeling of the Admirals, but the world will probably be told by the Russian organs that the attitude of their troops and the appearance of the batteries frightened the French and English fleets, and that they abandoned their intention of attacking Odessa, awed by the courage and devotion of the " holy Russians." Let the world, however, know that Odessa was " spared" once more, and, indeed, no one who looked at the city, which blends the mag- nificence of the East with the solid and massive grandeur of the West, could feel any desire for its destruction, unless it were absolutely necessary for the success of the war and for the attainment of peace. The horrors of a night bombardment of a rich and populous city, full of women and children, would be too dreadful ; but this expedition, meant for a very difierent object, could, withoiit weakening its efficiency or force for the accomplishment of the end on which it was sent, have beguiled its weary hours in the fog by lajang Odessa in ruins. It was not intended to injure a house in the place, or to fire a shot against it ; but the enemy were at our mercy, and, had our Admirals desired to do so, they could have knocked batteries, churches, public buUdings, and houses into atoms. The destruc- tion of the batteries would have necessitated that of many houses, and have caused great loss of life among non-combatants. We are not now in a position to ascertain the success of our ruse in anchoring ofl" the town, but there is reason to believe that the Russians have marched all theu* available force into the place from the neighbourhood of Nicholaiefi" and Cherson. When the fos: lifts we shall know more about our situation. CHURCH BELLS OF ODESSA. 279 CHAPTER XXX. The fog continues— Imitation of a London November fog— A signal gun — Cliurch bells of Odessa — All conimiuiication between different vessels in the fleet conses— Ennui — Opinions of old tars upon a Black Sea fog — Anxiety of the ofticers— Tlie veil withdrawn — Odessa once more visible — Activity in the fleets— Sir Edmund Lyons ably supported by Sir Houston Stewart and Captain Jlends — Arrange- ments — Order of formation on shore — An artful dodge — Fine weather — Movement of troops in Odessa — Numerous spectators of the fleets — llussian cavalry — Preparations for a start — Officers receive final instruc- tions — A consultation between the admirals — Plan of attack on Kinburn — Strength of the place — The wind rises and prevents the sailing of the expedition — L»eparture again postponed — Odessa obscured by dust — Continuance of unfavourable weather — Final order for the start. October 10. The fog continues, and is worthy of the best efforts of the London atmosphere in November. It is not so rich in colour, so yellow, or so choky, but it is equally thick and clammy. It is white in colour, and sometimes the sun stamps a moonlike imitation of his orb upon it, and in favourable moments one can see a faint indication of his existence above. Now and then you catch a dark outline of a vessel looming through the mist ; you strain your eyes to make out your neighbour, but you might as well try to pick out the details of Turner's blubber boilers or of his phantom ships, and as you look, the vision has disappeared. The water flows by -with a heavy oily roU, and the only noise to be heard is the plash of the lazy waves against the paddle- wheels, the bumping of the rudder, and the creak of an odd timber, as he rubs against his fellows. But hark ! There is a gun ! A dull bm-st of sound, followed by reverberations like the muttering of distant thunder, which are caused by the echoes of the report against the sides of the ships, denotes that the Admiral wishes to indicate his position to some straggler, who has not yet joined the fleet. Solemnly, through the silence which intervenes between these signals, comes the full rich boom of the church bells from Odessa. Possibly Papa Nicholas or Papa Daniel is even now persuading a nervous and fashionable congregation that the fog which hides their enemy from view is the result of his own intercession with Saint or Martyr, and these bells, which chime so sweetly, may be using their metal tongues to call down disaster on our heads, and to invoke the blessing of Heaven on the soldiers of the Czar. As the day 250 OFF ODESSA. advances the fog darkens, deepens, thickens. The rolling of drmas— the beat of paddle-wheels as a solitary steamer changes her berth with cantion — the striking of the bells of the ships, and the reports of guns at long intervals, are the only evidenc that a great fleet is lying all around us. All communication between the ships ceases, for no one can tell whei-e his next neighbour is ; in fact, a philosopher would find this a charming place just now for study and reflection. But those who are accustomed to more active existence find the time very heavy on their hands, and the excitement of seeing the men " knock about the gims," of hearing them and the boys say their gunnery catechism, " No. 1," — " Takes out tompions, bear out the port, worms 'em, sponges, rams 'ome, runs out, and trains," — of Avatching the barometer, of seeing the fowls fed, and of inspect- ing the various dogs, pigs, and birds which constitute the pets of the crew, and the more substantial enjojanents of the ofScers, palls after a time, and one — even ofl' Odessa, and cheek by jowl with the enemy — is fairly obliged to yawn by General Ennui. What is happening around us no one can see or say, and there is a iiorrible gloomy misanthropical curiosity seizing upon every one to ascertain the longest time a Black Sea fog was ever known to last, which elicits most startling declarations from morose old tars, that " If it's a riglar out-and-out 'un, with a light breeze from the sutherd and vesterd, it may last ibr a matter of a fortnight — ay, that it may." Sundry dismal experiences are not wanting to enforce the probability of such a lively event taking place again. " And then the bad weather will set in ; and, with sogers aboord, I'd like to know what we can do ?" The barometer now indicates 29° 42' ; the wind, which is very faint and light, is from the S.S.W. ; and, as the success or failure of the expedition entirely depends on the weather, the anxiety of all oflScers who have the interest and reputation of the navy at heart, is seriously aroused by our atmospherical prospects. 3-30 P.M. The fog is clearing away, and one after another the ships of the fleet appear in sight, as if coming out in a dissolving view. Odessa still looks very hazy. The Admiral avails himself of the pleasing change in the weather to make signal for a lieu- tenant from each ship to repair on board the " Royal Albert." The boats are lowered, and the aspect of the scene is now very different from what it was an hour aaro. The change is as PLAK OF THE EXPEDITION. 281 great as if one had coine out of a dark room into the leading thoroughfare of a hirge and busy city. The cutters and gigs glide about in all directions, visits are paid from ship to ship, and some boats sweep in to have a nearer look at the shore, which is indeed very tempting at this distance. The wind, however, increases as the fog disappears, and blows more off the laud, which will render the landing beach a lee shore, and be rather unfavourable for us if it freshens. The flagship is of course the centre of hard work, thought- fulness, and activity, and Sir Edmund Lyons is, as he so often takes occasion to state, not only assisted most zealously and ably by Sir Houston Stewart, but he is fortunate in having the services of one so energetic, clearheaded, and practical as Captain Mends, who has to go through an enormous amount of mental and physical labour on such occasions as the present. When the lieutenants went on board they received instructions for the disposition of the respective ships to which they belonged for the following day, and again the impression was confirmed that the destmation of the expedition will be Kinburn. The arrange- ments seem very simple, and are not embarrassed by unnecessary complications. The gun-boats sweep the beach, if there is any I'csistance, and continue their fire till the enemy retires out of range. The men are then landed from the line-of-battle ships in the launches and paddlebox boats, towed by the small steamers with light di-aught of water. The following is the order of formation on shore : — "« S French. fa .s j3 « .=: to f^ O -JQ hi r4 *i O ioWK M OIO?)^ S + ++++++ +++ + ++++ + Beach. It will be seen from this plan that the French will form the 282 OFF ODESSA. left and the English the right of the force as they disembark, and that our little force is divided into two brigades, which renders it more manageable. Of the exact arrangements for the landing I as yet know nothing more than that the " Spiteful," " Furious," and " Triton" are to discharge the " St. Jean d'Acre" of her great freight of Royal Marines, and to take the " St. Jean d' Acre's" boats in tow. After this, the " Triton," under the orders of the " Leopard," is to retain the line-of-battle ship's boats and the " Terrible's" paddlebox boat, and is to assist in landing the horses, &c., on boai-d the " Indian," Ko. 197. It seems probable that the arrangements for the disembarkation will be under the control of Captain Giffard, of the " Leopard." C O'CLOCK. The fog has withdrawn, and the lights of Odessa begin to twinkle in the distance. In order to strengthen the belief of the inhabitants that we are going to attack the place to-morrow, the Admirals have just made signal " to send down topgallant- masts," the usual preUminary for action in big ships. There is, of course, a race np the rigging, and great emulation between the different ships to obey this order, and it is to be hoped the Odessans clearly imderstood its import. Every preparation is made to keep a bright look out to-night, and to prevent any boat stealing from the town to have a look at us in the dark. A bold enemy would not esteem it impossible to take a dash at one of the nearest steamers and cut her out ; but the Russians have no dash or audacity, although they possess abundance of coolness and courage. October 11. All was quiet during the night. The sun rose unclouded this morning, and there is a fine light breeze from the N.N.W. The air is as clear and pure as though we Avere moored in a Swiss lake. The large men-of-war have not only their top- gallant masts struck, but they have splinter nettings stretched over the decks between the masts, as if they were at once going in to engage the forts. Odessa looks more beautiful than ever this morning. Clouds of dust are seen rising from its streets, as if large bodies of troops were moving about all over the town. The eternal Cossacks are watching on the cliifs near us, walking up and down to keep themselves warm, or playing with their shaggy little ponies. Wherever there is a good view of the fleet to be had a crowd of people may be observed standing, and PLAN OP ATTACK ON KINBURN. 283 the esplanades and terraces, and even the housetops and parapets of the batteries, are occupied by spectators. The cavahy on the hill to the nortli of the town were visible at early dawn, and there they stand yet — each man dismounted, at the side of his horse. The telegraphs along the coast are working very busily. The flagship, at 8'30 a.m., signalled to the fleet to " Prepare ■three days' provisions for troops to land with." 11 A.M. The French fleet is getting up steam, and several of our steamers are following the example. The Admiral has signalled to " 'Viper' to close," .and to " 'Triton' to shorten in cable." The weather looks rather nasty to windward. The barometer is as low as 29'35, The sea is rising, although we are under the lee of the land, and there must be a considerable surf on the banks at the mouth of Cherson Bay. At ll'lO signal was made to gun-boats " to get up steam for slow speed," and officers from each ship, in pursuance of instruc- tions received yesterday, repaired on board the Admiral's, where they were made acquainted with the exact duty required of them in connexion with the plan of attack, and were subsequently sent in to the Admiral, who examined each of them himself as to their respective tasks. Admiral Bruat went on board the " Eoj^al Albert," and remained with Sir E. Lyons for some time. Sir H. Stewart was also present. Nothing can be more clear, explicit, and, as far as a civilian can judge, more judicious, than the directions, and one is tempted to regret that it is not the custom of newspapers to print charts and plans, in order that the programme which follows may be understood as it ought to be. The large chart referred to, 2201, is only possessed by two or three of the line-of-battle ships. "plan or ATTACK ON KINBUEN. " No. 1. The line-of-battle ships to engage the Fort Kinbum and two sand batteries on the point, will anchor in about 30 feet, in a line extending northward from fort, bearmg E., and about 1200 yards distant from it. " No. 2. The four French line-of-battle ships to form the southern division, so that the ' Montebello' will be the fourth ship from the soi^th, and the ' Royal Albert,' as the fifth ship, will be the southern ship of the English division. 284 OFF ODESSA. " No. 3. The line-oi'-battle ships are to weigh together and form a lino abreast, north and south, at a cable apart. The southern line-of-battle ship is then to steer so as to bring the south end of Kinburu Fort bearing E. by compass, and, to shield her from any danger that may not have been discovered, or from approaching too close to the bank to the S., she is to be preceded by two steamers, tht; and the , each at u cable apart, and in advance, on her starboard bow, and showing their soundings. When the south line-of-battle ship brings the south end of Kinburu to bear E., she is to steer for it. The rest of the ships will then steer the same course, keeping one cable apart, and all anchor together in a line nearly north and south, just without the flag buoj's that will be placed during the previous night. '• No. 4. The nine ships will then be in position for the first five or six to engage Fort Kinburn at from 1200 to 1400 yards, and perhaps less, and the other three to take the sand batteries in flank and rear at about 1000 yards. " No. 5. The three French floating batteries are to be placed on a line N.N.W. and S.S.E. of each other, to the S.W. of Fort Kinburn, at about 600 yards distant from it. '• No. (5. The mortar vessels are to anchor in a line E. and AV., at 280() yards distant, with the fort bearing N.E. from the outer vessel of the line. " No. 7. The English mortar-boats to be towed by the ' Odin,' on a line E. of the French. " No. 8. If the outer mortar-vessel brings Oczakoff telegraph on with the east end of Fort Kmbm-n, bearing N. 20 E. (magnetic), and steers for it till the Oczakoff telegraph and Odzah Point subtend an angle of 70 degrees, she will be about the requisite distance of 2800 yards fi-om Fort Kinburn ; the rest can take their stations at a cable distance east of her. " No. 9. The ' Sidon,' ' Cura(joa,' ' Tribune,' ' Dauntless,' and * Terrible' to anchor close off the North Sand Battery on Kinburn Spit, or, when ordered, to join the squadron of gun- boats, &c., that have previously entered within the straits, should any large ships of the enemy from Nicholaiefif appear for the relief of Kinburn. " No. 10. The disposable paddle steamers can find good posi- tions between the line-of-battle ships for directing their fire with steady aim at the embrasures of the casemates or at any position where the enemy maintains his fire, or oif the N. and N.W. THE ADVANCED SQUADROX. 265 extremity of the Kinburn Spit, to enfilade the batterios and their approaclies. "No. 11. Tlic <^un-boats will attend to protect the army during the landing, and thot;e not ordered to remain to cover their Hank to take up position between the other ships as oppor- tunity oilers, and by a carefid attention to the plan of attack are not to lire in the direction of the other ships. ■' No. 12. The Admiral holds the captains responsible tor there being no firing, unless the men can distinctly see the objects they are directed to lire upon. •' ' Triton' and ' Beagle' to attend ' St. Jean d'Acre.' Each ship's boats to land her own troops. Reserve ammunition for the Marines to be landed with them. ' Spiteful' and ' Furious,' assisted by 'Triton,' to land 21 cavalry horses, 7 staff' horses, 37 regimental staff hoi-ses trom No. 197, and 00 Sappers, with tools, &c. '' The captain of each ship is to be responsible for the disem- barkation of his own troops and baggage. •' I'KOCEEDINGS OF THE ADVANCED SQUADEOX FOB BUOYING THE DAXGEES. " The ships denoted in the margin, piloted by ' Spitfire,' are to start at 1 p.m., and anchor in the following position, as sho'sni in the chart No. 2201, ti-om Odessa to Dnieper Bay : — A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H. No, 2. A. Valorous, B. Dauntless. No. 1, C, Gladiator. 1). Furious. E. Spiteful. F. French mortar-boat. G. French mortar-boat. H. French mortar-boat. " The vessels anchored at C, D, and E, on the north side of the p;issagc, are after sunset to show a red light to the west, and those at F, G, and H ai'c to show gi-een lights in the same direction, as guides for the fleet on passing through during tlii^ iiight. The vessel at A, ' Valorous,' to show lights vertical over the side, screened from N.W, round by E. to S., and seen to the W. only. The four gun-boats, ' Clinker,' ' Cracker,' ' Grinder,' and ' Fancy,' accompanied by four French guu-boats 286 OFF ODESSA. of shallow di'auglit of water, will proceed, after the former vessels have anchored, to the rendezvous, at 8 p.m., near the ' Valorous,' anchored at A. The foui- English gun-boats to he provided with buoys (white). The vessel at No. 2 A to provide two boats that are to be despatched and anchored upon the S.W. exti-emity of Oczakoif IJank, in foui" fathoms, to be a guide, by showing lights, for the French gun-boats to commence buoying the edge of that bank with black buoys. The two boats on their return to the ' Valorous' to place a white buoy on the end of Kinburn Spit, in five fathoms water. " The ' Spitfire,' assisted by the boats of the ' Dauntless,' at B, will mark the edge of the bank — ere landing — west of Kinburn, with small white flags, placed in five fathoms. " N.B. All white buoys are to lie on the south side of the channel, and black buoys mark the north edge of it, and are consequently to be left on the port hand in passing to eastward." It appears that the enemy have been for some time past strengthening Kinburn, which has been constantly watched by a steam cruiser, and a little while ago, it was so weak that a lieutenant in the navy volunteered to land at night with 300 men and to seize and blow up the fort. His offer was not attended to. We shall know more about the strength of the place to-morrow, if the expedition gets away in time, but I fear it will be Saturday before anything can be done, and even then there must be far less wind than at present. 11'30. — Signal to "'Vulcan,' 'St. Jean d'Acre,' 'Leopard,' 'Hannibal,' ' Princess Koyal,' and 'Algiers,'" that "'spirits are to be issued for the Marines ordered to disembark, in the same proportion as for the troops.' " It is blowing stronger than ever, and the sea rising. 12"30. — Signal from " Royal Albert" and " Hannibal" to " ' Sidon,' 'Vulcan,' and ' Princess Eoyal,' " to " ' anmd move- ments of troops to-day.' " The wind is too high to admit of the successful completion of the delicate operations indicated in the plan of attack, and it is now pretty certain that nothing will or can be done till the wind and sea abate. The next signal deter- mines the point. It is for the whole fleet, — " Departure post- poned for more settled Aveather." The "Viper" and "Triton" close with the " St. Jean d'Acre," and that is the only move- ment which takes place till sunset. Either large bodies of men are at work and are marching about the streets of Odessa, or it is the most dusty city in the world, for at present we cannot DEPARTURE OF THE FLEET. 287 see any portion of tlie town, althoug-h the atmospliore is very bright and clear. This little breeze of wind will afford more food for the Papas to feed their ilocks withal. It is said that the clouds of dust we witness are natural to Odessa, and almost peculiar to it during the least breeze from S. or S.W, October 12. To-day was like unto yesterday, exactly. The French gun- boats and om* ovn\ were getting under way just after noon, when the wind and sea rose as before, the weather looked threatening, and the very signals of yesterday were repeated. It is reported that a large lire was lately observed bm-niug on Kinburn Spit, and the " Spitfire" has gone away to reconnoitre. The mail arrived by a French steamer. October 13. The wind was high, and the sea ran heavily till 2 o'clock this morning. The " Banshee" arrived about 10 a.m. At noon the weather looked threatening, and the same signals were repeated for the postponement of om* departure. The wind has hauled roimd to the north this evening, and the weather pro- mises to be fine. The Admiral has signalled to the fleet to weigh to-morrow morning, at 6 o'clock, and to follow the " Royal Albert" in order of seniority. The weather threatening, barometer 29 "41, wind light from S.S.W. At 12"15 the signal was made to postpone departure till more settled weather, and at 12'30 orders were given to bank down fires and to prepare to start at dawn. CHAPTER XXXI. THE CAPTURE OF KINBURN. The fleet sails along the coast — It anchors — The passage between Oczakoff and Kinburn Spit forced by a portion of the fleet — Landing of the troops — Bombardment by the gun and mortar boats — The wind rises and produces a surf that impedes the progress of operations — The French fall in with a Cossack picket — Seasonable supplies — Renewal of the attack — The intrenchments — Fall of Kinburn — Opening of the bombardment — A conflagration — An engagement between the fleet and the forts — Another conflagration — A flag of truce on the rampart — The Russians surrender — The garrison marches into our lines — Bumours. Off Kinburn, October 14. The fleet weighed and stood along shore this morning. The inhabitants were in a ferment of alarm. The weather was 288 THE CAPTURE OF KINBURN. beautiful, and we could at our leisure admire tlie numerous cleau-lookinjj^, snug villages, the immense flocks and herds and well-filled iurmyards, which met the eye along the coast. The fleet anchored at three o'clock three miles west of Kinburn Fort. It is understood that the plan of attack has been materially changed. October 15. Last night the " Valorous," Captain Buckle, with Rear- Admii-al Sir H. Stewart on board, and several French and English vessels, forced the passage between Oczakoff' and Km- burn Spit, and got into Cherson or Dnieper Bay. I could only see five gun-boats, three French and two English, this morning, but I was assured the " Valorous " entered also. The troops landed without the smallest opposition, or even the appearance of an enemy, about four miles below the fort, in the order already indicated ; the 17th regiment was the first to land, and the French were, for a wonder, behind ns. The mortar and gun-boats bombarded the forts for three hours, but did not produce any apparent impression. The weather con- tinuing fine, the troops set to work, intrenching themselves on the eandy spit : only a few Cossacks were visible towards Cherson. The wind rising, and thereby producing a surf upon the beach towards evening, suspended opea-ations. October 16. This morning a few French troopers, who were out patrolling in front of our lines on the plain towards Cherson, came upon a Cossack picket, hid in some brushwood. They charged at once with great gallantry, killed two, and took two prisoners out of the party, which consisted of eight men, and since this occur- rence the Cossacks have not been visible in front. The breeze is still strong on the land, and the surf is so high as to render landing disagreeable. Getting off" again involves the certainty of a thorough wetting. Great diflicultj"- is in consequence experienced in landing stores, and the paddle-box boats and flats, which got adrilt last night and this morning, are still on .shore, settling into the sand. One of these has drifted under lire of the fort. The Cossack guard-station is fast disappearing, as the few bouses are i'ound to contain wood, and wood burns, and fuel is necessary for cooking. The cow-houses and stables have been carried off' bodily, even the bulrushes are considered too valuable to be left behind ; the cabbages have been cut, and the potatoes dug up, and the hedge taken away, the pigeons killed FALL OP K'lNBURN. 289 with revolvers, the poultry and pigs eaten, and the horses appro- priated. It was too windy to open fire from bomb or gun- boats, and scarcely a shot was fired on either side till late in the afternoon, when a steamer, with an Admiral's flag at the mizen, and supposed to be the " Valorous," with Sir Edmund Lyons or Sir Houston Stewart on board, seemed to leave the fleet, and to fijrce the passage, amid a good deal of firing, but we are so far to the southward, and the day is so hazy, that it is impossible to make out what takes place. The steamer now apparently lies very near the fort, with a French steamer of equal size close to her. These steamers, aided by two or three of the gun-boats, opened fire at 3 p.m., which continued till 3'35 p.m., at the rate of a couple of guns in the minute, and which was returned by the Russians, but no apparent effect was produced by either side ; and the Russian shells, as usual, burst high in the air, long before their flight was completed. The works are beginning to assume shape, and to gather strength at every shovel-throw of earth, so that in a couple of days the Russians will find intrenchments between them and Kinburn, whichever way they turn. The intrenched camp will present one line of works towards the fort, and another about half-a-mile in the rear towards Cherson, the flanks being open to the sea at each extremity, so as to be covered by the guns of the shipping. The French take the trench facing Kinburn, and may be considered as the army of operations against the place — the English guard the rear against any attack from Cherson. It would seem as if the French were going to proceed against the obstinate old Governor of Kinburn by regular approaches, and to sap up within battering distance, if he holds out in spite of the fleet. October 17, 5 p.m. Kinburn has fallen, after a short but most desperate defence. Early this morning, the Russians perceiving that the French had crept up dm'ing the night to the ruined village, and were busily engaged in making their first parallel, under cover of the houses, at about 700 or G50 yards from the place, opened a brisk fire upon them from the guns en barbette in the eastern curtain j and were answered by two French field-pieces from the screen of a broken wall. It was a dull, gi-ey dawn, with wind off the shore, and the sea quite calm. The fleet was perfectly still, but the mortar-vessels, floating batteries, and gun-boats were getting up steam, and before nine o'clock they might be VOL. II. V 290 THE CAPTURK OP KINBURN. eeen leaving the rest of the armada, and making for the south side of the fort. The three floating batteries took up a position close in with the casemates, and the mortar- vessels and gun-boats were drawn up further away, and more to the eastward, so as to attack the angle of the fort, and fight the guns which were on the curtains en harbefte. The floating batteries opened with a magniiieent crash, at 9"30 a.m., and one in particular distinguished itself for the regularity, precision, and weight of its fire throughout the day. The enemy replied with ahvcrity, and his batteries must have been put to a severe test, for the water was splashed into pillars by shot all over them. At 10' 10 the bombs opened fire. At ll-lO a fire broke out in the long barrack, and speedily spread fi'om end to end of the fort, driving the artiller3'men from their guns. Small explosions of supply ammunition took place inside. At 11'15 the Russian Jack was shot away, and was not re- placed ; the firing became tremendous. Admiral Stewart, in the "Valorous," and the French Admiral (second in command), in the " Asmodee," followed by eleven steamers, came round the Spit Batteiy into Cherson Bay, delivering broadsides and engaging the batteries as they passed, and they were preceded by the " Hannibal," which ripped up Kinbum with her broad- sides. The fire raged more furiously, fed by constant bombs and rockets, and at 12'35 a fresh conflagration burst out in the fort. At the same time the "Valorous," "Asmodee," and steam frigates opened their broadsides, and the nine line-of-battle ships approached in magnificent style, and took up their position at the seaward face of the fort, already seriously damaged by the tremendous fire of the floating batteries, gun-boats, and mortar-vessels. The storm of shot from this great ordnance is appalling. The very earth seems flying into dust, and the fiery embers of the fort are thrown into columns of sparks. Still the Russians stand to the only guns they have left. The broadsides increase in vigour, and at last a white flag is waved by a single man from the rampart. Boats with flags of truce push off", and bring back the information that the garrison is willing to surrender. At 2 p.m. the firing ceases, and 1100 men march into our lines. Several of these were quite dnink ; they caiTied off food and drink, and the officers wore their side-arms. The garrison consisted of the 29th Regiment and of one hundred Artillerymen. Two hundred are said to be killed, and four or five hundred wounded ; but SUKRENDEK OF THE GARRISON. 291 admittance to the town is denied by the French, as it is re- ported that the Governor, inflamed to madness, is in the powder magazine, watching for the victors to enter, in order to fire the mine, which is well stored with powder. We shall know more to -morrow. CHAPTER XXXIL SniTender of the governor — His grief at liis reverse — Obstinacy of the second in command — llussian council of war held during tlie bombard- ment — The majority decide iii favour of submission — Tears of the governor on signing the articles of surrender — The major-general's friendly warning — Strength of the place — Preparations for increasing its strength — Guns — Piles of shot and shell — Large stores of ammu- nition — Prisoners of war — Plans for the future — Lipraiidi with 22,000 men supposed to be in the neighbourhood — Cherson — ISicholaiefi"-— The "banks of the Bug — Seven hundred and fifty Russians to be sent to Spithead — Appearance ot the prisoners — Intoxication — A reconnais- eauce towards Cherson — A deserter from Oczakoff — Active opera- tions — The bomb-vesseld — Success of ihe floating batteries. October 18. When the flag was waved from the parapet, two boats, eacli bearing a flag of truce, pushed off, one from the English and another from the French Admiral, and at the same tiiTie Sir Houston Stewart proceeded to land near the battery, where he found the French General advancing to parley with the Governor. Major-General Kokonovitch advanced with a sword and pistol in one hand and a pistol in the other. He threw down his sword at the officer's feet, and discharged his pistols into the gromid, or at least pitUed the triggers with the muzzles pointing down- wards, in token of surrender. He was moved to tears, and as he left the ibrt turned round and uttered some passionate excla- mation in Russian, of which the interpreter could only make out, " Oh ! Kinburn ! Kinbiun ! Glory of Suwarofi' and my shame, I abandon you," or something to that eflect. As the garrison marched out they were ordered to pile their arms, but many of them threw them on the ground at the feet of the conquerors, with rage and mortification depicted on their features. It appears that the second in command, whose name is something like Saranovitcli — a Pole by birth — inflamed by courage and its Dutch ally, declared he would not surrender, and that he was prepared to blow up the magazine before the enemy should enter. In this he was supported by the officer of engineers and by the officer of artillery. Ainid the crash of falling buildings, the u2 392 THE CAPTURE OF KINBUKN. explosions of mortars, the thunder of the fleet, and the smoke and flames of their crumbling batteries, the Russians held a hasty council of war, at which it was put to the vote whether they should surrender or not, and the majority carried the ques- tion in the affirmative, on the side of humanity and reason. lu vain the fanatic Pole, the artilleryman, and engineer, tried to persuade the Governor and the majority to persist in the mad- ness and folly of continuing their passive resistance, for active opposition was out of their power. " We can hold out for a week," said they. " What then?" asked the Governor. " You have not been able to fire a shot for three-quarters of an hour. Are yo\i likely to be in a better state two hours hence, and, above all., where are the men to live in the mean time.''" Such argu- ments, enforced by tremendous broadsides and by the knocks of the Admirals with cannon balls against every side of the foi't, prevailed. The white flag was hoisted, much to the satisfaction of every humane sailor in the allied fleet, who could feel no pleasure in destroying a brave enemy, and much more to the gratification of those who were allowed to cease a demonstration of hopeless courage. Kokonovitch wept as he threw down the pen with which he signed the articles of surrender, but he had no reason to be ashamed of his defence. By the terms of the capitula- tion the garrison were permitted to retire with everything except their arms, ammunition, and guns ; the officers were allowed to wear their swords, the men to carry off their knapsacks, cloth- ing, regimental bugles, church property, relics, and pictures. When the Major-General was asked to use his influence, or to give a pledge that no harm should beiidl such of the allies as might enter the place, he said he would do so, " but at the same time I must tell you," added he, " that the flames are at this moment very near the grand magazine." This was a friendly caution, which produced, of course, a corresponding effect, and steps were at once taken to prevent any such lamentable losses as Avcre caused aftisr the evacuation of Sebastopol by the rashness of the troops. The second in command, the artillery officer, and the engineer, finding themselves deserted by officers and men, abandoned their suicidal determination, and surrendered; so Kinburn was ours, as far as the flames and smoke would allow us to occupy it. The defenders of the northern forts on the spit were not aware for some time of the reduction of the principal battery, or at least paid no attention to it, and hammered away from one gun till a shot from the *' Terrible" DESCBIPTION OF THE FORT. 293 utterly destroyed the casemate. As well as I can make out, there are in Kinburn Fort fifty-one guns mounted cii harhette, inside and in the outworks, six flanking guns in casemates, and twelve mortars, and of these twenty-nine are dismounted, smashed, or disabled in gun or carriage. Tn the Centre Spit Battery there are ten guns, of which two are disabled, and in the Spit, or North Battery, there are ten guns, of which three are smashed. We ariivcd just in time to prevent the latter work from assuming most troublesome dimensions, for the casemates were ready for nine more guns, and the platforms indicated they would be of large calibre. The guns in Kinburn were long eighteen and twenty-four pou. i<^rs, of great weight and thick- ness, and some of ancient date; we found a small park of guns inside ready for mounting. Some of the others were of 1852, and the piles of shot and shell and stores of ammunition of all kinds were out of all proportion to the size of the place. The prisoners will be embarked and sent to Constantinople in the course of the day. They sold their kits and all they could dispose of — droschkies, horses, spare clothing, and food, by a rude kind of public auction on the spit this morn- ing. Sir Edmund Lyons came down in a small gun-boat at ten o'clock to the beach off the encampment, and went on shore, but remained only a few minutes. The " Triton" received orders to join the " Eoyal Albert," and the " Leopard" took her place, to protect the beach, and direct the landing of stores. The fleet is getting up steam — the small gun-boats are far up in the Bay of Cherson, supported by a vevy strong force of steam frigates and sloops. It is intended, we hear, to occupy the fort of Kinburn, and to put the fortifications in a state of defence. The enclosure will be divided between the Fi-ench and the English; and a portion of the allied troops will be stiitioned inside the present intrenchments on the spit. In order to ascer- tain the position and strength of the enemy towards Cherson, a strong reconnaissance will leave the allied camp early to- morrow, and go out for two days, feeling their way in that direction, in which the ubiquitous Liprandi is said to be con- centrating his forces vf\i\\ the intention of attacking us. He is believed to have about 22,000 men under his command, but on this narrow spit, with a fleet on each flank of the approaches, twice the number M'ould not avail to force the French and English camps. With a month more fine Aveather we might close the campaign by forcing the Russians to burn and blow up 294 THE CAPTURE OF KINBURN. both Nicholaieff and Cherson, aud seizing material guarantees for peace in Russia Proper. To act against Cherson a large aiiny would be requisite, as the fleet could not with safety and prudence penetrate the mai'shy mouths of the Dnieper, and the road from Kinburn to that place is commanded by a fort, which could not be carried by a coup de main, unless a strong flotilla operated against it. Nicholaieff" is very formidable ; the banks of the Bug are steep and high, the currents devious and strong, and the soil sus- ceptible of being worked into batteries in a few hours. How- ever, to the daring and prompt all things are possible, even success itself. About 750 of the Russians will be sent to Spithead direct in the " Vulcan," Captain Van Donop, to-morrow morning. On the whole, they seem "the worst lot" of Muscovite infantry I have seen, and tliey consist of either old men or lads ; the former are fine soldier-like fellows enough, but the latter are stupid, loutish, and diminutive. They availed themselves of theii' licence in the fort to fill all their canteens with "vodka,"and in some instances their stomachs also, and many of them were di'unk when they marched out, but intoxication had the effect of making them extremely amiable and facetious. The officers bore their niis- fijrtune with dignity, but felt it deeply, as was evident fi-om their grave demeanour and stern countenances. Few of them wore decorations, and only one was dressed in full uniform. A Chef de Bataillon or Major, wearing a long light-blue cloak with red collar, who limped along with difficulty, had a good deal of influence over those around him, and kept the drunken soldiers in awe by his look, and a sergeant in a long green frockcoat with yellow facings and stripes, aided him in re- pressing the mirthful disposition of some of the bacchanalians on the line of mai-ch. However, I have said enough about these pi'isoners. The Russians, with their usual incendiary propensity, set fire to the fort below Oczakoff", this morning, and retii*ed after blow- ing up the magazines, which went up into the air Avith two heavy explosions at six o'clock. The gun-boats are well advanced towards the mouth of the Bug, and are now engaged sounding, under fire from the shore. There was a reconnaissance this morning, but we saw nothing of the enemy. October 19. In compliance with the wishes of the French Admiral, Sir THE FRENCH FLOATING BATTERIES. 295 Edmund Lyons decided on despatching a squadron, under the orders of Sir Houston Stewart, to co-operate with the French squadi-on under Eear- Admiral Pelion in protectintr the left flank of the allies in a reconnaissance which was to start to-day to* wards Cherson. The utility of this reconnaissance is not quite so apparent, for it is evident we cannot now attack the enemy if he be in force, and if we retire (as we must) he will be encouraged by our retrograde movement. He cannot attack us, no matter how strong in numbers he may be, and when the time comes for action it will be soon enough to reconnoitre. However, Admiral Lyons is at all times most desirous to comply with the requests of our gallant ally. Accordingly, signal was made for " all large gun-boats to join the Rear-Admiral," and the " Triton" was ordered to pilot them in from the anchorage off Kinburn round the spit. Sii' Houston Stewart came on board the " Triton" from the " Eoyal Albert" at noon, and the gun- boats were ordered to follow her. On arriving at the anchorage off Oczakoff Sir Houston Stewart went on board the " Asmodee," and had an interview of half-an-hom-'s duration with Adjniral Pelion ; he afterwards went on board the " Valorous," where his flag is still hoisted, and the signal was made — " French Admiral does not wish to go till to-morrow," and the expedition is con- sequently postponed. A deserter came off the night before last from Oczakoff, who states that there are 14,000 infantry and 3000 cavalry encamped within a league of the town, and that there are 15,000 men ou the south side of Nicholaieff. The Russians blew up the forfc (Nikolaev) off Oczakoff because they saw from the practice of om* mortar boats that if they did not destroy it we shoiold sm-ely do so. The bomb-vessels were engaged at the distance of 2500 yards from the forts. The fii-st-class gun-boats, such as the " Aitow," " Lynx," " Beagle," " Snake," &c., were emploj'ed nearer the forts in drawing off the fire from the bomb-vessels, in case the enemy directed their long-range guns against them, and in dis- tracting their attention from the fl-oating batteries ; and those three batteries, which, to the credit of France and to our shame, our gallant ally had the opportunity of testing so practically, were anchored at the distance of 800 yards from Kinburn, and opened their guns first against the Russian batteries. The success of the experiment is complete. The shot of the enemy at that short range had no effect iipon them ! The balls hopped 296 THE BUG AND THE DNIEPEK. back off their sides, without leaving any impression, save such as a pistol hall makes on the target in a shooting-gallery. The shot could be heard distinctly striking the sides of the battery with a " shai'p smack," and then could be seen flying back, splashing the water at various angles according to the direction they took, till they dropped exhausted. On one battery the dints of sixty-three shots are visible against the plates of one side, not counting the marks of others which have glanced along the decks or struck the edges and angles of tlie bulwarks, and all the damage that has been done to it is the slight starting of three rivets. The men are all below, except a look-out man, in a shot-proof box on deck, and the casualties arose fi'om a chance shot which came through the ports. CHAPTER XXXIII. THE BUG AND THE DNIEPEE. A flag of truce — Nicholaieff— Kinburn Spit — Its defences — Mouth of the Bug— A stratagem — Necessary precautions — Glare of fires on Kinburn Spit — French niissa soleniiis — Horrors of War — Return of the English gun-boats — Arrival of Sir Edmund Lyons — StanislafT — The admirals part company — Graiule promencule miUtaire — A Sirocco — Kinburn made secure — An expedition — The rafts — The dockyards of Nicholaieff — Arsenal at Nicholaieff — Comments in the English journals upon the author's account of the attack on the Redan. October 20. The French Eear-Admiral, in one of the small gun-boats, •weighed early this morning, and stood up Cherson Bay with ihe lighter vessels of his squadron before the English Admiral was aware of his intention. Our smaller gun-boats started in the same direction soon after dawn, and Rear- Admiral Sir Houston Stewart, having sent off his despatches to Sir Edmund Lyons, hoisted the signal for the large gun-boats and steam-sloops under his command to weigh anchor. At nine o'clock, with his flag flying in the " Stromboli," he led the way towards the con- fluence of the Bug and Dnieper. He was followed by the *' Gladiator," " Spiteful," and " Triton" steamers, and by the •"Wrangler," "Snake," and "Viper" gim-boats ; and a whole shoal of gun-boats, small and large — " Cracker," " Grinder," "Clinker," " Fancy," &c. — were some miles in advance, cruising, in company with the French squadron, among the intricate ehoals which guard the entrances to the Dnieper. A FLAG OP TRUCE. 297 Before we weighed in the morning a French boat left the Eear-Aclmirars ship with a large flag of truce for OczakofT. She carried the reply of the allies to the request sent by the Russian general under a flag of truce the previous day, and informed him that the "major-general who had commanded in Kinhurn se parte a merveillc, that forty-five wounded Russians were in the French ambulances, and that the French general regretted he could not state the names of the officers who were prisoners," but he did not say whether that was owing to any difficulties in orthogi'aphy or not. As the boat neared the beach, an officer, followed by two soldiers, came from the town to meet them. One of the men bore a tremendous flag of truce — there could be no Hango mistake about it ; he had a large table- cloth suspended from a long pole, imder the weight of which he staggered as he walked. The boat touched the beach, and, with much formal bowing and marti;d civilities, the missive was handed to the Russian, who retired with his tablecloth waving behind him up the hill, and was lost to sight amid the houses. The weighty objects in the ruined fort of Nikolaev are removed, and, owing to the fresh breeze or the renewed efforts of the Russians, the fire in the broken mass of stonework and timber spread, and thi-ew out columns of white smoke this morning. Two old priests scrambled down to the ruins of the fort, and, with their flowing robes and long beards, seemed like ancient prophets invoking maledictions — as no doubt tliey were — upon the fleet. Oczakoff'is to be left untouched ; indeed, we could do very little with it, as we should not be in a position to hold the fort against the large force which could be moved against it, and they could not be reached by the guns of the fleet, owing to the shoal water. Thus they might hammer away at the gar- rison from the commanding ridges in rear of the town. Besides, the possession of Kinburn is enough for us, and secures all the objects we have in view. Above the long low Spit on which the fort stands we could see the hulls of the men-of-wiu* high above the water on our right hand, and the high cliffs of the steppes of Cherson on our left, the latter tapering away in the distance to the promontories of the Bug. The steam squadron, anchored inside Kinburn Spit, could cross fii-e with the vessels in deeper v/ater on the other side. In order to avail ourselves of that advantage the troops are drawn inside the fort and nearer to the extremity of the Spit, so that an enemy marching to attack the position would be exposed to a terrible raking fire 298 THE BUG AND THE DNIEPER. along the whole of his front, and from the fleet on both his flanks and centre. The steppe on the other side presents a uniform face of clifl", varying from fitly to 150 feet in height towards the sea. In some places it is precipitous, but it frequently slopes away abruptly or is seamed by ravines and water-courses. The water is very shallow at the base of the clili's, and occa- sionally there is an extensive beach of sand and sand spits beneath them, which are inhabited by a few fishermen, and are covered with wild fowl, swans, geese, ducks, and cormorants. The most prominent objects on the edge of this steppe, of which little can be seen from the deck of a ship, are the telegraph stations, farm-houses, of great extent, herds grazing, Cossacks, and wind- mills. On ascending to the mast-head the steppe is seen extend- ing in vast sheets to the horizon, its monotonous level being little diversified by the few tumuli and deep water-courses visible for many leagues. The quantity of cattle, of poultry, and of corn and hay in stack, is prodigious, but the farm-houses are wide apart. At intervals of four miles or so a village, consisting of whitewashed houses, may be seen each with a church so like the other that it is hard to believe they are not built of pasteboard by some ingenious Nuremburger. The tele- graphs are all alike, and are built substantially of stone. It is strange that we have not destroyed them, as our vessels ranged along the coast. They enable the enemy to anticipate our movements, report every change of station, every appearance, every event, and to prepare in some measure at least for our operations. Captain Inglefield, of the " Firebrand," asked per- mission to knock them over, but for some reason or other the admirals did not consider it politic or advisable to grant this, and the telegraphs remain intact. Perhaps as they stand on lofty clifis, it would not be very easy to hit them from the sea, but the expenditure of ammunition might possibly be ju.stified on the plea of putting an end to rapid comnmnication along the seaboard of Southern Russia, and of making the Cossack hence- forth their quickest intelligencer. We noticed nothing remark- able on the coast, beyond the features I have already indicated, excepting a strong corps of cavalry on the beach watering their horses, and a cohunn of infantry advancing from behind Oczakoff towards Nicholaieff. Considerable numbers of cattle were grazing all over the plains, which the Cossacks or the owners were collecting into great herds, and driving off from the vicinity of the shore. As we approached the mouth of the Bug MOUTH OF THE BUG. 299 the water became of a gTeen colour, tmd was covered with a scum of spawn and vegetable matter like a duck pond. The mouth is about five miles wide, the banks steep and high, and studded with farm-houses. In entering we observed a portion of the French squadron coming down the river, and the smoke of the light vessels, which were hull down, rose up ii'om the horizon towards the Dnieper. The French Admiral assured Sir Houston Stewart that he had been up to the spit in the river, which extends from the western bank for some distance into the stream, at about seven miles from Ajiojhiol point on its western entrance, and that he had not seen anything there. As there was nothing else to be done, the Admiral resolved to have a look for himself, and accordingly weighed in the " Stromboli," which was followed by the " Spit- fii-e," the " Grinder," and "Cracker," small gun-boats. The expedition proceeded slowly up the river. The banks are high on both sides, and the brown steppe, studded with herds, farm- houses, and Cossacks, presents no object of interest. About three miles up, on the left-hand bank, we came upon a small village, and one of the largest farms I ever saw. Five miles up, on the right-hand bank, there is another village with two pretty churches. There are guard stations and look- out posts on both sides, as usual. The river is tliree or four miles broad up to the spit, where it narrows considerably. On both sides the cliff is upwards of 100 feet high, and can scarcely be commanded by the guns of a ship. However, it was ad- visable to ascertain what defences existed on the lower part of the river till it contracted into within range from both banks. The " Cracker" and " Grinder" went on ahead, the " Stromboli" followed with the Admiral's flag flying, and the " Spitfire" came along slowly, busily engaged in her indefatigable labour of sounding, and probing, and angling every bit of the earth's face and of the waters under the earth. We glided merrily along, examining bearings and farmyards at our leisure. Above the Spit there is a high bank, ascending to the steppe behind it, and at the distance of some hundred yards from the edge there is a tumulus on the steppe, behind which I saw some Russian artillery at a considerable distance as we were running along the coast. The "Cracker" had run on ahead, and the "Grinder" was just drawing on parallel with this high bank — we were all examining it — one officer was saying to the other, " Well ! I wonder the Russians have not got a battery on that cliff" — 300 THE BUG AND THE DNIEPER. when from a seam in its side, parallel with the watei-, a puff of white smoke spirted out, and the rush of a shot followed, and was terminated hy a splash in the water close to the side of the " Grinder." " Tell the ' Grmder' he maj- give him a shot in reply," cried Admiral Stewart, and little " Grinder," with more valoiu- than discretion, at once put down his helm and ran in to land, di-awing across the " Stromholi," at which the enemy had opened another gun at the moment, hut this shot also fell short. As the drum heat to quarters the men rushed on deck in a high state of delight ; the berthings were removed, and the guns got readj' for action in a few moments ; but " Grinder" being intent on doing his devoir got in our way, throwing dust and smoke in our faces, so that at last the fatal edict went forth and "Grinder's" I'ecal was hoisted. And now the guns on the top of the cliffs, which Avere only light field-pieces, opened ; none of the shot from the Russians had yet fallen closer than twenty yards to us, so that all on board were in a meriy mood as the " Stromholi" slowly craned over towards the bank. The work fi'om which the Russians fired their heavier guns was a trench in the cliff, almost half-way up its side, and looked very insigni- ficant, but when you came to squint along a gun, and could only see four little black eyes staring out at you over a line of earth which did not seem three inches high to your sight, you began to understand the difficulty of striking such objects at the dis- tance of a mile. " Try 2500 yards !" The gun was trained. At the words " Well ! Fire !" out spouted the flame and smoke, and the iron globe, whose cui-ve you could trace through the air, hurtled with the peculiar and nerve-shaking hiss of its race, right over the earthwork, knocking up a pillar of black earth from the crest of the hill, and bounding far away to the reai*. The enemy replied. We heard the shot coming right at us, and, as it flew over Captain Spratt's head, who was stationed at the foretop, looking out for shoals, and plunged into the water 500 or 600 yards beyond us, it became evident that the Muscov had been playing the deep game of firing shot to entice us well under his battery. Now he was trying extreme range, and had heavier guns than we thought. The " Spitfire," " Cracker," and "Grinder," were coming into play, and the former two made some excellent practice, and struck the earth right and left of the battery. " Stromholi" kept edging down nearer, and the captains of the guns were all with eye intently gazing along their guns. " Try two thousand yards." Away flew the iron A BRISK ENGAGEMENT. 301 messenger again, but he only told the Eussians to bob theii' heads and keep out of his way, and passed behind them. The field-pieces now took to firing shell, and studded the air above us with smoke-clouds, and the angry hum of the splinters was heard once more, but for the most part they were too light to reach us. Whiz ! — right across our crowded deck comes another round shot, and plashes into the water over our counters. The long gun at the bow sends a shot in reply which goes right into them this time, at 1700 yards, and the " Spitfire" follows the example. Whiz ! whiz ! two shot, one after the other at the " Stromboli," one dashing the water up in a pillar close to her sides, the other cutting the jib foot-rope. The smoke obscures the view, but it is quite clear that the Russians are keeping close behind their works. The last reply from our guns was nearer and better directed than the first. However, there was no object to be gained by continiung a contest in which it would have been pitiable indeed to lose one man. That there was no intention of going up to Nicholaieff" with a steam-sloop, a sur- vepng sloop, and two small gun-boats, I need not say, and had the enemy been driven out from the point ten times a-day they could have returned at any time, and have constructed just such another flying defence as that with which we were engaged. Indeed, the Admu-al would not have replied to the enemy's fire at all, but that Jack is dissatisfied if not permitted to return a shot whenever one is sent at him. It would never have done to turn back without any reply at all, but, having gained the only object in view — that of ascertaining how far small vessels could go up the river without opposition to take soundings, &c. — Sir Houston Stewart resolved to return, and, with a parting salute fi'om our guns, the " Stromboli" set her jib, slewed round, and steamed slowly down the river. The enemy fired two guns one after the other, but the "Spitfire," "Grinder," and "Cracker" soon silenced them, and a parting salute from the latter, a shell, fell right into the earthwork, burst, and appeared to do the Rus- sians a good deal of mischief. As we returned, the " Spiteful," "Triton," and "Arrow," which had remained off" the mouth of the Bug — an unpleasant position, which will be appreciated by London lodgers — were seen steaming full butt up to us, as they apprehended they could do some good and help us out of a scrape ; but their zeal was not gratified, and the emulative gun- ners had not a chance of doing anything. The little flotilla returned to its anchorage off the Bug, and remained there for 302 THE BUG AND THE DXIEPER. the night, witliout the smallest apprehensions that the enemy could do us any hai-m from Nicholaieflf. Mr. Brooker, one of the active and intelligent officers of the " Spitfire" — and that is indeed saying much, where all are so ahle and so willing — volunteered to go in one of the small gun-boats (the " Cracker") right up to Xicholaieff, after dusk, to ascertain the force and position of the enemy's batteries; but it was judged inexpedient to hazard the loss of a gun-boat, which would be made a subject of great rejoicing and triumph to the enemy, while the success of the experiment would not be of much importance, inasmuch as we were not in a position to attack and occupy Nicholaieff. Had Marshal Pelissier listened to the eai-nest demands of Sir Edmund Lyons for 15,000 or 20,000 men, there v/onld, indeed, have been some utility in such a reconnaissance, for the opera- tions of om* steam iioet might have mystified the enemy so com- pletely as to enable us to land a force and by a coup de main to destroy, though not to occupy, Xicholaieif. It appears that from the Spit below the confluence of the Ingul and Bug the town is 5000 yards distant, and is invisible, so that it would be necessary for a fleet showing a very narrow fi'out and in very shoal and difficult water to force batteries, booms, sunken vessels, gun-boats, and get round into the Ingul itself, before they could fire a shot on the place ; and in the mean time every vessel ■would have to rim the gauntlet of high banks lined with rifle- men which then- guns could not reach. Sir Houston Stewart, under any circumstances, would scarcely have been justified in allowing an experiment of the kind, more especially as its success could not have led to any gratifying result ; but it would not have been in his province to give permission, inasmuch as Sir Edmund Lyons was almost within sight. Soon after the flotilla anchored, a large convoy was observed parallel to the river, proceeding along the east bank towai'ds Nicholaiefi", and the " Spitfire" signalled for permission to go in and shell them. In the absence of the Admiral, who had not yet cast anchor, the request was not com- plied with, and, indeed, the evening had advanced too far to permit of her doing any good. The night passed quietly, all the ordinary precautious in presence of an euemy being strictly adhered to. Ociober 21. Late last night the glare of fires was seen on the Kinburn Spit, near the south mouth of the Dnieper, and, although the gun-boats are operating in that dii-ection, it most likely pro- OBSERVANCE OP THE SABBATH. 303 ceeded from the Cossacks, who are busily occupied burning the produce of the Russian peasants, lest it should fall into the hands of the enemy. The French Admiral, in one of the gun-boats, attended by two others, went away during the night. This morning the wind blew strong down the river, and raised a rough tideway, which was ti'oublesome to small boats. The atmosphere grew cold and grey, with immense refraction. Dark clouds of smoke arose from over the land to the S.S.E., which would indicate that the Cossacks were still at their work on the Spit. Church pendants w^ere hoisted in the forenoon, and Divine Service, according to the Church of England, was duly celebrated in the confluence of the Bug and Dnieper, for the fii-st time since Christianity blessed the earth, and within sight of the spires of many Greek orthodox churches. The French had a little missa solennis of their own. At 230, thi'ee large and one small gun- boat got up steam and weighed. They stood straight \ip the river, and great was our excitement lest they should think it necessary to silence the battery which we had left with its teeth di'awn, if not its tongue tied, yesterday. Before they started, and just after church-service, Sir Houston Stewart, having sig- nalled for an oiRcer of the " Spitfire " to come on board, went off in the " Cracker," attended by the " Grinder," to examine the coast to the S.S.E., and to endeavour to ascertain the cause of the numerous fires, indicated by pillars of smoke in that direction. They were soon lost in the haze to the southward. In vain they tried to find out the position of the troops who were supposed to be advancing along the Spit, to destroy all the forage and provision in their way for forty miles, so as to make the country a barren waste, and prevent the enemy marching towards the fort without taking with them supplies. However harsh this measm-e may appear, it is a necessary operation of war. When Sydney Smith drew his terrible pictm-e of John Bull's afflictions in a probable invasion — corn-ricks blazing on every side — sows of the best breed running about with their throats cut, and the parson's lady invested by an amorous Gaul — he must have had a prophetic inkling of the operations of our fleet in the Bay of Cherson, always excepting the investment of the lady, for the priests of the Greek rite are not given to marriage. So the Admiral returned, having disturbed immense quantities of wild-fowl, which liave frequented the banks of the Borysthenes since remotest ancient history. 304 THE BUG AND THE DNIEPER. Meantime, our friends and allies sidled up to tlie Spit, and perhaps they had some I'aint notion that they should succeed in destroying the hattery which their ijood friends and allies the English liad not utterly pulverized the day before. The day was very dull, as I have said, and the north wind created an immense refraction, so that the end of the clifi' appeared to be lifted out of the water, and the vessels to have wavering hulls and quivering masts as they advanced, just as one would see thcni through the haze from a hot walk in a July day. On they went, however, and at last they arrived ofi" the Spit, and the enemy opened fire on them as before. The small gun- boat stood bravely in within 1500 yards of the shore, the others anchored at 1800, and all engaged the guns in the breastwork very sharply. Their shot flew over the cliff, hit its face, knocked the water at its base into clouds of spray, and the Russians struck the water behind, before, at this side, and at that side of the vessel, but never hit mast, spar, or rope, and so the fight continued ; but the French aver they dismounted one gun at least, and drew down a great body of the enemy before they retired. This they did after haif-an-hour's dalliance with the Kussians, and then they anchored off the mouth of the Bug, close to us once more. Meantime we had seen a sight, which led us to believe that His Majesty the Czar, or some of his Imperial family, was actually honoui'ing our little squadron by a minute inspection. Perhaps he was thinking hov/ they might run for a marine Cesarewitch. It might, indeed, have been after all only a Governor of Cherson whom we saw, but about mid-day there certainly did appear, on the east bank of the Bug, some great man on a big, dark horse, followed by ten or twelve officers, mounted, and some few orderlies. This august personage rode over to the Cossack post, dismounted, and honoured us by a minute inspection, which he interrupted from time to time by a few words to those around him. Presently a Cossack came galloping across the steppe at full speed, right to the group of cavaliers. AVlien he approached he dismounted, and, walking to the great surveyor of our navy, knelt down, and appeared to kiss his feet, as he handed him a despatch. The great man read the missive, mounted his horse, and rode off to a neighbouring post, followed by his suite. The next time we saw him he was visiting the Cossack post higher up the river, after which he proceeded along the road towards Nicholaieff. Some time alter the French boats retired, the English gun-boats came in sight, A FRIENDLY OFFER. 305 and in the early evening tliey anchored in their old place, and Admiral Stewart left the " Cracker," and returned to the " Stroinboli." At niglit strict watch was kept on board the little deet. Fire-ships are not much to he feared by steamers, but still the wind was strong down from Nicholaieft*, and the Eussians for once might attempt to do something, and so there were look-out men placed fore and aft, and armed sentinels, and loaded carronades, and with these precautions we went to sleep — in the Avaters, for the time being, of Her Majesty the Queen and of His Imperial Majesty Louis Napoleon. October 22. The wind chopped round and blew from the westward, and somewhat from the southward up the Bug. At ten o'clock Admiral Stewart went on board the " Spitfire," and proceeded southwards, towards the Kinbiu-n Spit, to look out for the troops, and to discover the cause of the fires, which were still blazing along the horizon. As he bore away on his course, a French gun-boat came close to him with a despatch for the Admiral, from Admiral Pellion, in which he very politely and handsomely placed at the disposal of Sir Houston Stewart several chaloupes cannon ierex lying off the mouths of the Dnieper, in case the latter felt inclined to destroy certain large boats on the beach below Stanislaff. The tone and spirit of Admiral Pellion's letter were admirably polite and considerate. The French officer who brought it stated that in the little affair between the gun-boats and earthwork yesterday they had dismounted one gun, and suffered no loss ; and he pro- ceeded on his way in his boat to rejoin his chaloupe, after a hearty shake of the hand from the Admiral. As the "' Spitfire" was forging ahead on her course, a small craft, witli an admiral's flag red at the mizen, was seen at the horizon. It could be no other than Sir Edmund Lyons. The dull echo of the guns, and the distant scent of gunpowder, had enticed him into our waters to see what was going on, and his flag was flying in the little "Danube." IMany of the captains of the fleet were with him — Sir T. Pasley, (^aptain Jones, Captain Mends, Captain King, Captain IM'Cleverty, Captain Talbot, Captain Hastings, Captain Edgeil, Captain Loring, Captain Hay, Cap- tain Goldsmith, Captiiin Inglefield, Captain Buckle, Captain Giflard ; his secretary, Mr. Cleeve ; his Flag-Lieutenant Lyons, &c. The Admiral sent off his barge to the " Spit- fire," and Sir Houston Stewart, Captain Spratt, Commander VOL. II. X 306 THE BUG AND THE DNIEPER. Cowper Coles, Mr. Brooker, &c. went on board the " Danube,"' Avhich immediately went away towards Kin'ourn Spit, aceom- panied by the " Spitfii-e." They went within half-a-mile ol' the marais, whieh binds the coast with a belt of long deep rushes, but not a soldier was visible, with the exception of one solitary Cossack. At 2'30 the admirals returned from theu- cruise, and stood in towai'ds Stanislaff, which the French admiral is anxious to burn, particidarly on account of the posts on the beach. As they approached, it was clear- the enemy thought two British admirals did not fly their flags together for nothing. A strong body of infantry was drawn up on the heights among the houses, which were, no doubt, filled with riflemen. A very considerable force of field-artillery was collected in the rear, in case the admirals and post-captains determined to land and take Stanislaif by assault, or the " Danube " and " Spitfire " attempt to bombard the place. It was really wonderfid to see that the Russians had erected a solid compact-looking sand battery with five embrasures, on the sand-bank below the town, where no trace of such a work existed twenty-four hours pre- viously. The admirals here parted company ; Su" E. Lyons returned in the " Danube" to the fleet, and Sir H. Stewart steamed away in the " Spitfire" to the anchorage of the Bug, and afterwards went on board the " Stromboli." At eight o'clock the French gun-boat came back and anchored near us. There were some traces of the troops at Skadovska, about thirteen miles from Kinburn, to-day, as black columns of smoke rose up from the Spit, in that direction. This may be the work of the Cossacks. But the reconnaissance of the admirals failed in detecting the march of the soldiers. It is understood that all the men of both armies, excepting those required for working parties, are employed on this r/rande promenade milifaire, in Avhich the fleet is obliged to be too far from the coast to render them much assistance. ^faveinbrr 3. For the hist four days it has been blowing a sirocco, which painfull}- afl'ects one just returned from nearly a month's trip at sea. The air is hot and heavy, and has become impregnated with most offensive and irritating dust, which attacks nearly every sense at once. The thermometer has ranged i'rom 75 deg. to 80 deg. since V/ednesday up to this date. Late on Wednes- day evening the " Triton," " Odin," and " Firebrand," the latter two with mortar and gun-boats in tow, arrived, after rather a THE GARRISON AT KINBURN. 307 rough passage, at Kazatch, Next morning the " Ti-iton" went round to Balaklava, and in the course of Thursday a number of French and English vessels, with troops and stores on board, arrived, one after the other, and anchored off Kamiesch and Kazatch. The wind blew so hard that it was considered inex- pedient to land the troops. Yesterday all the ditferent portions of the fleet had arrived at their anchorage, but the wind still blew strongly on shore, and no disembarkation took place that I am aware of, nor has the brigade under Brigadier-General Spencer rejoined the Fourth Division up to the time at which I am now writing. Kinburn is quite secured against the attack of any forces the enemy can bring against it, covered completely as it is by the guns of the formidable flotilla we have left behind to protect it. The garrison is strong ; prudential reasons induce one to keep the exact force secret, but the Russians must know as well as we do how many men the fort will contain with convenience. The French troops will occupy the fort, but a small body of English will be left to guard the flag which waves along with the tricolour from its ramparts, and tbe task of its defence will be shared with our allies by a powerful English squadron. They have worked with extraordinary energy to repair the place. All the curtains are rebuilt, the ruins cleared away, the damaged gvms removed, and ships' fine guns put in their place ; the fosse cleared out and deepened, the palisades repaired, the south- ea.stern gateway filled up, and its approaches covered by a strong ravelin ; the crest of the parapets repaired solidly and well with fascines and earthwork, the Russian guns rendered efficient, the casemates cleared out and filled with stores or adapted as barracks, and the interior buildings in course of reconstruction and reno- vation. The batteries on the Spit are to be destroyed, and that process is easily eflected by removing the massive beams which support the sand and the few gabions used in their construction. The reconnaissance which started the week before last did very little, except burn all the stores and houses which could render service to the enemy for seven or eight miles towards Cherson, and therefore I the less regret being in the mouth of the Bug at the time it started, and being unable to accompany it. The total strength of the expedition was 4541 men and 279 horses. On the first day they only marched to a village two miles beyond the place of disembarkation on the Spit, the French being in another village a mile in advance. On the second day x2 308 THE BUG ANT5 THE DNIEPER. the men remained inactive. On the third day the force maixhed to another viUage three miles further down the Spit, which was completely deserted, except by an old man, his wife, and a peasant who was found up a chimney. Two of the Cossack duiianicrs came in and surrendered to the troops. On the fourth day the force returned, and having laid waste the country, and captured and slain immense quantities of poultry," geese, pigs, &c., supplies for another day remained unconsumed. The Trench were about 2200 strong. One drummer was shot in the leg by an unskilful pig-shooter, and bullets were flying in all dii-ections in search of geese, pigs, or cocks and hens, whenever the force came to a halt. None of the enemy molested them, but a body of 200 horse watched them closely, retreating before them as they advanced, and following them up on their retm-n. They were saluted with some shots from a French gun-boat, which iujcompanied the expedition as closely as possible, but still kept a long way from the shore. The rafts are all safe off Kinburn, and they are no insignificant prize just at this moment, when such efforts are being made to put the Bug in a state of defence. The dockyai'ds of Nicholaieff are supplied with timber and wood from the Government of Ligtewski, which contains several large forests of fine trees. These are situate chiefly in the neighbourhood of Minsk, Mohilev, and Vitebsk. The wood is floated down the Dnieper to Cherson in rafts firmly clamped and bound together, with strong and substantial huts upon them for the navigators. Each raft is generally composed of 4000 large trunks of oak trees, which are covered with knees and smaller pieces roughly shaped after drawings and instructions sent to the cutters. This is done that the timber may be made available at once for use in the dockyards. After being floated as far as the current will take them down the Dnieper, they are met by the Government steamers outside or inside the bar ort" the mouths of that river, and thus towed up to Nicholaieff'. Some small steamers must be kept at Nicholaieff, at all events at this moment, but they have never stirred, nor have we seen any traces of them in the Bug. Cherson was the great ship-build- ing and maritime yard for the Black Sea fleet in former days, but the difficulty of building large ships there, or rather of getting them away when once they were built, on account of the shallowness of the water on the bar of the Dni(;per, forced the Russian Government to remove then- establishments to VALUE OP THE KAFTS. 309 Nicholaieff, on the confluence of tlie Bug and of the Ingul. The bar of the Bug has a depth of eighteen or nineteen feet ; the bar of the Dnieper has only eight feet water upon it in ordinary seasons. The ships of the line are built at Nicholaieff, but it is not improbable that small vessels and frigates of light draught may still bo constructed at Cherson. The arsenal at Nicholaieff is very extensive, but its principal supplies of timber came from the Dnieper, and the loss of these two rafts will be no incon- siderable injury. Fine oak timber such as they contain is very dear and scarce in Russia. The timber in the casemated Spit Battery, and the expense of erecting it, came to no less a sum than 45,000 silver roubles, or 7500Z. English currency. It re- mains to be seen if Austria can supply Russia with wood, as she already furnishes her with oil, groceries, and manufactures of all kinds ; that is, they are brought to Southern Russia through the Austrian provinces. Sir Edmund Lyons has presented one of the rafts to the French — an act of courtesy and consideration which our polite allies no doubt estimate at its full value. Their dimensions are as follows : — The first is 420 feet long by 63 feet wide, and is 6 feet deep. The second is nearly the same length as the first, 54 feet broad ; it grounded in eight feet water. At a rough calculation, the two rafts contain 90,000 cubic feet of the finest timber, and the present made by the English fleet to the French, through our Commander-in-Chief, cannot be estimated at a lower value than 20,000Z. ; at least, if the timber was in England, it would be well worth the money, for the majority of the balks, sjiars, and centre pieces composing it are of the very finest white oak. The English journals contain, I perceive, many comments on a statement published in my correspondence describing the ill- fated attack on the Redan on the 8th of September, in which the Commander-in-Chief, the Quartermaster-General, and the General of Engineers, were represented as being in the second parallel, sheltering themselves as well as they could from the effects of the dust and of the bitter cold wind which blew throughout the day. Now, it is very far from my intention to expose the Generals to ridicule. General Simpson same out here as chief of the staff to ease Lord Raglan of a load of duties ■which pi'essed too heavily upon him, and to nev;tralize the acids in the Quartermaster-General and the Adjutant-General's De- partments. When Lord Raglan died, the command was thrust 310 THE BUG AND THE DNIEPER, upon General Simpson, and he who had served for many anxious years, feeiin<^ lie was no lonijjer the stout soldier that had won renown for his unaristocratic name in the Peninsula, or as an. experienced General, had been regarded as the only successor to a Kapier in India, made representations to the Government at home which did credit to his modesty and humility, if not to his judgment. In I'act, he begged of them to place the command in other hands. Well, the Government refused to do so. They left General Simpson Commander-iu-Chief of our army in spite of himself, and in defiance of his own diffident remon- strances. Left ? no, but forced him — the round peg, as he declared himself to be — into the square hole ; and now they are astonished forsooth that the peg did not fit ! Again, is there any good ground for attacking one whose business it is to tell all that is interesting to the British public for saying what the Generals did, where they were placed, and how they appeared ? I cannot answer the question, but it strikes me, if it be answered in the affirmative, the respondent mast be the last of the Pro- tectionists — the Don Quixote of " sham," the champion of humbug, and the high priest of national delusion. Why is the writer to be attacked ? Because he exposed these distinguished officers to ridicule and calumny. What, is not a General a human being ? If he is cold, must he alone not wear a cloak ? if sick, must he alone not avail himself of a litter ? if storm- driven, must he alone bear its peltings with uncovered ears ? Are " distinguished officers" to be always in full uniform — in cocked hats, epaulettes, orders, and jackboots, shouting " Follow me !" to their legions, or taking snuff" a la Gomersall and Napoleon in extreme military crises in front of their battalions? If they are, they ought not to be j sui-ely, if they ought to be, they are not. WHY ODESSA WAS SPARED. 311 CHAPTER XXXIV. SEBASTOPOL ONCE 310EE. Ufore about Kinbiirn — How Odessa may be reduced — Winter at Kinburn — Captain Sherard Osborne's flotilla in the Sea of Azofl"— Arabat Kaffa, or Tlieodoi^ia — Tlie Peninsula of Kertch — Another expedition advo- cated — Alarm in Nicholaiuff — Return of the admirals — Return of the " Hi.chflyer" from Circassia — Russian plans and manceuvres — Differences of opinion amongst naval and military commanders — Good under- standing between French and English generals remains inviolate — The English force — Its excellent condition — Aspirations — Locomotives — Sir \V. J. Codrington's military career — Probable retirement of Sir Richard Airey — His successor. Before Sebastopol, JSiovemher 3. When the fleet was off Odessa, the advice of the highest person in France on the project of bombarding the town was sought by the French Admiral, and it is believed that his reply implied a " radical opposition" to any such pi'oceeding, nor was our Admiral authorised by the home authorities to attack Odessa unless he was certain of success. Sir Edmund Lyons and Admiral Bruat have acted all along in the most perfect accord, but there has been this diSiculty in their mutual relations, that Admiral Lyons is not under the orders of the British Com- mander-in-Chief of the army, while Admiral Bruat is directly vmder the control of Marshal Pelissier, and it is known that the latter is opposed to any operations which would require large detachments from the French army. It was proposed at one time to send in a flag of truce to Odessa with some such pro- position as this to the Governor — " Are you the Governor of ,a commercial town or of a military station ? If you say Odessa is purely a commercial town, destroy your forts, abandon your efibrts to fortify it, deliver up your gun-boats, if any, and we promise to respect the place. If you say Odessa is a military station, you must expect to see it treated as such by the allied fleets." However, in case of the Russians refusing to give up their guns, &c., and setting us at defiance, it would have been necessary for us to attack the town coute qui cotlte, and there were many reasons why at that particular time such a course would not have been desirable. It may be doubted — indeed, it is, I believe, doubted — by the English Admiral that we could destroy Odessa from the sea by such means as we at present possess. It is a town built of stone, consisting of wide streets, 312 SEBASTOPOL ONCE MOKE, of places, and squares, oirering little combustible matter, and placed at such a distance behind the batteries as to be accessible only to mortar vessels and horizontal fire at a very long, and therefore at a very uncertain, range. The houses are roofed with iron, and in many cases there is no woodwork in the flooring or ceiling of the diflerent stories, hut iron girders and tiles and slabs of stone are used instead of planks and rafters. Many of the houses are detached, and stand like so many palazzi in their own grounds. Under these circumstances a general fire would be almost out of the question, and the damage caused by a bombardment would not be very decisive or extensive. With all the efforts of friends and foes to destroy it, how much of Sebastopol still remains ? The Russians, by the agency of powder, of piles of wood, of tar, of turpentine, and of all sorts of combustibles, tried to get it into a blaze, but they failed, not- withstanding a favourable breeze ; and we rained shells on it for months, and never succeeded in creating any conliagration of importance. Well, Sebastopol contained much more wood than Odessa does, and was much more accessible to our fii-e. The infer- ence is, that we could not by any bombardment of the fleet set the town in a blaze, or inflict damage which would compensate the allies for the expenditure of all their shell. It is evident that at some period or another our fire would cease from ex- haustion of means. Even a line-of-battle-ship's powder maga- zines and shot and shell rooms are not illimitable. It is equally clear that a line-of-battle steam-ship could not try to come in close enough to the forts to develope her fire, without running the gxeatest risk of being disabled before she could get into position. The moment would come eventually when our bomb-vessels and gun-boats and heavy steam frigates would be compelled to cease firing, and that probably before much injury was done to a large, distant, stone-built town like Odessa ; and then, if the Russians could frre even one gun as we retreated, they would claim, and with some colouring — which would seem verj' bright and decided in some circles in England and in many cities and towns of despotic Germany and of free America — the credit of having beaten ort" the allied fleets ! If Odessa is to be destroyed, it can only be done, first, either by great numbers of floating batteries to reduce the forts, and enable the liners to approach within broadside distance; secondly, by a sustained fire, constantly maintained for several days, of a flotilla of gun- boats, bomb-ketches, and mortar-vessek, fed by continuous sup- DIFFICULTIES OF A BOMBARDMENT. 313 plies of amnnuiition, and even of new guns and mortars ; thirdly, by tlie disembarkation on the coast below the city of a force sutticiently strong to defeat the gan'ison and the outlying army defending the place, in whicli case the city would be open to the conquerors, and all the defences taken in reverse ; or, fourthly, by some unlvuown operation of war, locked up by the Admiralty key in Lord Dundonald's bosom. Of these plans the third alone seems to insure the certainty of destroying Odessa. The Avear and tear of materiel in a protracted bombardment is incre- dible. Even in our affair at Kinburn numerous guns were disabled — as an example, I may state that both of the " Arrow's" heavy Lancaster guns burst after a few rounds, so that the gun- boat was rendered quite useless. (It should be added by paren- thesis that these guns were not furnished by Mr. Lancaster, but were ordinary heavy guns bored in conformitj' with his principle.) The mortar-beds also underwent heavy strains on the occasion, although those suspended on Julius Eoberts's prin- ciple were found to answer very well, and to give less shock to the vessel than those mounted on the old plan. Sir Howai'd Dongla.s declares that a 13-inch mortar ought to hit a large object such as a fort at the distance of 4000 yards, but I know that many of our bombs missed Kinburn from a distance ofles& than 3000 and 3G00 yards. The whole of the glacis and of the ground bel'ore the fort for some hundred yaa'ds was burrowed up and pitted by the craters of bombs, which made prodigious holes in the soft sand on which they expended their force. For one shell which would fall through the roof of a house in Odessa, three or four would fall in the public streets, squares, and yards, where they would be comparatively harmless. These large missiles take up great space, and the Heet could not hold enough to lay Odessa iii mins. Even had the Admirals been pro- vided with aU the appliances for destroying Odessa, the project would not have had the concurrence at present of one Govern- ment, at all events ; and so the fleets, after approaching the town, lay quietly before it. They might have caused great damage to property and loss of life by firing on the place during their- stay, for, though complete destruction is often difficult where damage and loss may easily be efiected, there can be no doubt that a vigorous fn-e would have occasioned the enemy a considerable amount of both. The French Admiral, indeed, suggested that a cei'taiii number of gun-boats and mortar- vessels should go in every night and throw shell into the town ; ^14 SEBASTOPOL ONCE MORE. but Sii- Edmund Lyons was of opinion probably — and if he was, tliere can be but little question in Englisli minds that he was right — that such a petty measm-e of warfare was unworthy of us ; that we ought either to desti'oy Odessa, and assail it with all our strength, or refrain from a partial attack, which, on its cessation, the Russians would say, and not without pretence, had been repulsed. The soldiers and sailors who are doomed to stay at and otf Kinburn for the winter will have a dreary time of it. The sea on both sides of the spit is frozen to some distance from the shore, but Major-General Ivokonovitch, the late Kussian Gover- nor, who was there for four j^ears, said he had never known the .sea to be frozen right across to OczakofT. By the by, it is believed that General Liiders was in Kinburn just beibre our arrival, and that he only crossed to Oczakoft'in a small boat the night \Ye arrived otf the Spit, leaving behind him assurances of relief to the garrison, and informing the Governor he ought to hold out at least for a fortnight. The " Glatton" is at Kamiescb, and will not, 1 believe, take part in the defence. As to the blockade of the Bug and the Dnieper, it will, I presume, be raised by the first frost, and the gun-boats engaged in that service will di'op down and join the Hotilla at Kinburn. The only thing to look forward to is a liberal enjo^^ment of shooting, if the Cossacks will permit it, as the shores abound with mul- titudes of wUdfowl. Before the expedition started neaidy all the smaller gun-boats were despatched to reinforce Captain Sherard Osborne's flotilla in the Sea of Azoff, where that active and energetic officer is harrying the Russians as a hawk perturbs a field of larks. The " Fancy," Lieutenant Grylls, was still with the fleet ; indeed, she is so badly built that she is scarcely fit for the short hacking waves in that sea, and she strains and leaks in bad weather to a dangerous degree. The attention of all naval officers is now turned to the navigation of shallow waters by vessels with heavy armament, and Commander Cowper Coles, of the "' Stromboli," who invented the raft " Lady Nancy," which did such good service at Taganrog, has con- structed models of two very ingenious rafts, which have been sent to the Admufalty, and which are highly approved of by the Admirals out bere. Rafts of this construction would do immense service in the Sea of Azotf, and one model provides for the adaptation of steam power, which would give the raft a moderate propulsive agency of its own. A RECONNAISSANCE UP THE BUG. 315 As to the ascent of the Bug or the Uniepei-, it is only to be attempted by vessels with shot-proof screens and proof docks, inasmucli as every man could be picked off the declvs by Minie riHemen, unless the banks of the river were cleared by troops in numbers sufficient to beat back the enemy as they advanced. Captain Cole's raft is provided with a shot-proof screen which shelters the <^un and every soul on boai"d, helmsman and all. In spite of our operations in the Sea of Azotf let it be remembered that we have not reduced Arabat or Genitchi, and that the Rus- sians will soon have free use of the Spit. The moment the frost compels our boats to retire, the Spit of Arabat will be in their hands. The water of the sea is frozen to the distance of several miles, so that no boat can approach to prevent the passage of troops or convoys. Had Arabat fallen, and an expedition landed at Kafta or Theodosia, we should have been masters of the Peninsula of Kertch. November 6. On Sunday, the 28th, Captain Pai-is joined the allied squadron blockading the Bug and Dnieper, with orders to take the com- mand as soon as Admiral Stewart went; and when we sailed on Tuesday we left that officer in charge, with the " Beagle," " Viper," " Snake," and another English gun-boat, and four French gmi -boats, to keep up that dismal duty. For several days before the weather showed symptoms of making itself un- pleasant — enveloped us in fogs in the morning, with stiif breezes of wind, and in a muggy, smothering atmosphere at midday; but the cold had by no means set in, and the air was indeed rather disagreeably warm. On j\Ionday, the 29th, the order to embark was given, and Brigadier-General Spencer came up in the " Danube" and made a short reconnaissance up the Bug. He did not go as far as the little battery with which we had a brush on our arrival ; and indeed the " Danube" would very likely go to the bottom at once if hit by a shot, for she is only a river steamer, little larger than a Greenwich or Woolwich Waterman. However, her appearance created an immense stir among the Russians. Cos- sacks galloped about on all sides and in every direction. The battery at the point was manned at once, and a held gun was detached from the small camp behind it, and kept along the west bank joarzi passu with the steamer, in hope of sending the little " Danube" to the bottom of the Bug ; but she kept out of range, and as soon as the general had seen all he could. 316 SEBASTOPOL ONCE MORE. he returned. That evening three large bodies of inftintry inarched down from NicholaielF, and occupied the villages on the east bank near the sea. One battalion set at once to work on a high diir, about six miles up the river, and threw up an earth- work, either to cover riiiemen or receive guns. No doubt the enemy saw our preparations at Oczakoff, and were persuaded the troops were coming up to attack Nicholaiefi'. The infantry we saw were fine solid-looking masses of men. On Tuesday morn- ing before we left they might be seen in the various villages or hamlets on the east bank, so that when they had united with the troops about Stanislaus, there must have been a good force ready for us. Admiral Stewart sailed from the Bug on Tuesday morning, and joined the fleet at Kinburn, and a poi'tion of the fleet which had gun-boats to tow started for Ivamiesch the same evening. The allied fleets, under Sir E. Lyons and Admiral Bruat, Sir H. Stewart and Admiral Pellion, sailed the following day for the same anchorage, and encountered a strong breeze of wind. The wisdom and foresight of most of our military operations in burning, laj^ing waste, and blowing up, was never better exemplified than at Kertch. There was a very fine barrack near the quarantine .station, on the Bay of Kertch, recently built, pro- vided with every comfort, and well supplied with water from a deep well, and with capacious tanks. In the ordinary exercise of reason these buildings should have been preserved, inasmuch as it was determined to keep a British force at Kertch, but before Sir George Brown left, they were burnt by order, and reduced to a heap of blackened ruins. We are now, with infinite labour and trouble, and at prodigious expense, sending the mate- rials for huts to Kertch, and dragging them up close to the site of the barracks, where they will form a very poor })rotection against the weather in comparison with the substantial buildings which we destroyed. As the tanks are ruined and the well spoiled, the men will have to di-ag water a distance of three miles to their new residence. Provisions arc now tolerably abundant. The '• Highflyer" returned yesterday from Circassia and a cruise along the Turkish coast, having on board the Duke of Newcastle and Mr. Simpson, the artist, Avho accompanied him on the excursion. His Grace will find things greatly changed since ho left; roads made, huts erected, generals gone. Sir Colin Campbell, Colonel Stirling, Sir H. Bentinck, and Brigadier THE NEW COMMAXDER-I\-CHIEF. 317 Shirley, have left the camp during his absence. The Duke's trip is said to have been most agreeable, and to have aflbrded a pleasiint ynclange of hunting, shooting, visiting, travelling, sight-seeing, and Circassian adventure. The 8th Hussars, with the exception of a troop ordered up as an escort to head-quarters, will embark to-day for winter quar- ters at Ismir. Before Sebastopol, Novemher 9. It is kuown that Sir William J. Codrington, with the local rank of General, will succeed Sir James Simpson in command of the army ; that Sir Richard Airey, Quartt^rmaster-General, will retire in a few days, to be replaced either by Colonel Wetherall or Colonel Herbert. There is every prospect of undisturbed repose during the coming winter, and during the fine frosty mornings the drill sergeants can work their will with the awkward squads of recruits, so that on the return of spring there will be as fine an army here as ever was led by an English general. Sir W. Codrington is just the man to draw in the reins gently but firmly, and to correct the evils which tend to mar its efficiency in the field. We are a little too free and easy. Rum is too plentiful, and money too abundant. In one small regimental canteen on the fifth of November, the anniversary of Inkermann, not less than 140/. was received in ready money for articles of consumption, mostly of a liquid nature, and about 50/. more was debited to good customers. The Russians maintain their usual attitude. The contraction of our straggling lines towards the Belbek destroys their only hope of temporary success in assaulting this position. Strange as it may appear to most people, I must express ray belief that the Russians do not intend to abandon the Crimea until they are forced to do so. They occupj- a splendid position, notwithstanding all that the maps may indicate, and they will not believe their communica- tions are cut off till the fact is evident. Their hope is probably that, by next campaign, the Crimea will be a vast camp, and that they will be in sufficient force to hem us in at Eupatoria, to defcnd the coast wherever we may make a descent, to hold Perekop, and to paralyse our army before Sebastopol, so that it cannot move on Cherson or Nicholaieff. They hold the rivers and streams of the Crimea, and tliat is a great advantage. However, there is one place in the Crimea from which an army might move with ease on the rear of the enemy's position behind Simpheropol, and it is not possible for the enemy to hinder our 318 SEBASTOPOL OXCE MORE. del)Ouclnn<]^ from this point unless the}' beat us in a pitched battle. There is no news to record except what is contained in my diary. Aovemhcr 7. The enemy since morninsr have been executing manoeuvres on a vast scale all over the plateau, from the west side to Mac- kenzie's farm. The}- are in full uniform, their great coats being laid aside ; and it is evident that they are undergoing in- spection by some great personage. The gleam of buyonets flashed in every direction over the ridges, and pierced the brushwood, showing the number of troops to be very considerable. The manceuvres lasted till kte in the afternoon. November 8. A beautiful day, with scarcely a breeze of wind, a fine genial sun, and a pleasant atmosphere ; all lost so far as the expedition to Kaffa is concerned. The men have now been ten days on board ship, and the cost of such a little armada would startle our economists if they knew the precise amount. It is, be- sides, very hard on the officers and men to remain cooped-up in men-of-war at a period when their presence is \u*gently required in camp, to construct huts and carry on various works of pi'epai"ation for the winter. Should they return to their old quartere, they will most likely find the excavations over which their tents stood filled with water. Should the weather break, there will be discomfort enough, and it can hardly liold fine mtich longer. It is not very agreeable to Jack, either, ■who finds his ship turned into a barrack, and himself suddenly cribbed, cabined, and confined in his own castle. Money, time, opportunity, are all wasted alike — we don't " know the reason why." It is said that there is a difference of opinion among the Generals and Admirals, and that in their strait they have refen-ed to England and France, or rather to the governing powers of those countries, for instructions. It cannot be doubted, that if England and France were consulted, they would say, " be off at once ! do something for goodness' sake, or go on shore and stay there." Tlie answer recently received to a message, requesting the instructions of an eminent person as to the departure of the expedition, is said to have been, that he was not in possession of sufficient facts to enable him to decide, and he wished for further information. Thus some time will be lost before auotlier telegraphic despatch can be received. One can only say that such loss of time is as much ARBITRATION AT HOME. 319 to be deplored as it is irreparable. The English Admirals are in favour of the expedition, and some military men. Major- General Windham and others have always believed that Kafla and the Kertch peninsula would have been the proper base of our operations in the Crimea and against Sebastopol. Ad- miral Bruat warmly co-operates with ISir Edmund Lyons, but he is under the orders of Marshal Pelissier, and it is affirmed that the latter is averse to any further reduction or dispersion of his armj', which he is concentrating as much as possible on the Tchernaya and Baidar, to be prepared for an attack, should the enemy resolve on such a desperate measure ere winter sets in. Hence probably arise the diH'erences of opinion which require an arbitration at home. But the arbitrator, although we can talk to him by the agency of lightning, is a long way off, and in spite of all his sources of knowledge, is necessarily unacquainted with many things, and while his decision is pend- ing, the time i'or striking the blow which he may fmally order and approve of will be gone for ever. The weather is too good to last, and a continuation of it for a day longer cannot be cal- culated upon with any degree of certainty. In the Crimea the fog bi'ceds the storm, and last night and early this morning we had a very heavy fog, which endured till the sun warmed uj) the air. Thei'e may be much force in Marshal Pelissier's objections to any reduction in the strength of his army just now, whilst rumours to the effect that the Russians are preparing to tlirow away the lives of more of their soldiers in assaulting our posi- tion are in circulation. However, the Imperial Guard are under orders to embark for France, and they might as well take Kaffa and Arabat en route, and secure us the peninsula of Keri:ch for the winter. Ten or certainly nine days have elapsed sinci? the fleet left the Spit of Kinburn, and Kaffa and Arabat would have been taken and reduced, and fortihed over again, in that time, if they were to be taken at all. Sir Edmund Lyons is not a man to let the grass grow under his feet ; but one foot he cannot move, for he is tied by the leg, just as he was when he in vain opposed the famous flank march on Balaklava, and advocated a rush at the town ere the enemy could recover from the efl'ects of their dismay. We must act in concert with our allies, and the rule seems to be that neither France nor England shall act inde- pendently of the other, but that they may act as they please respecting the Sardinians or the Turks. There is always a want of decision and energy in allied councils, and even Marl- 320 SEBASTOPOL ONCE MORE, boroui^h and Eugene had to regret that no two men can take precisely tlie same view of all tlie parts and accidents of any single matter. Not that there is the least difference of opinion respecting the large operations of the war, or any want of unanimity as to the grand details of our plans among the Gene- rals, but that the force required, the nature of the troops to be engaged, the time, the mode of action, and the results of success, ire presented in different ways to the minds of different men (all Df great weight and authority), and the natural consequencG is indecision — ^just such as arises in the mind of a man to whom the opposite sides of a question are propounded by able advo- cates. General Simpson has ever evinced the utmost readiness to accede to Marshal Pelissier's suggestions, or to any proposi- tions made by either generals or admirals of character and experience, so that no obstacle to any energetic steps arises from him, bnt if he wished to-morrow to march against the enemy he could not do so without the co-operation of Marshal Pelissier. We have a large armj' in the field at present. We issue at least 60,000 rations daily, and om- effective force cannot be less than 45,0(X) men. It is doubtful if the French much out-number lis in strength, but they certainly do generally preponderate and take the lead in military operations here, either by land or sea. The cordial good feeling between the Allies, and the esteem and admiration entertained by us for our gallant brothers in arms diminishes, or rather subdues, any little unea.sy sentiment of mortified pride or national vanity, which might be created among our men by this prominence of action, but they can hardly be blamed if they desire once more to fight side by side with their allies, to revive the glories of the Alma, and the gra- titude and triumphs of Inkeiniiann. When the armies take the field next year, the English soldiers will be in fine condition, and as soon as the roads are made, the men will have time to learn the trade of which so many of them are now ignorant. In truth, our army stand in great need of the drill sergeant. A siege is at all times rather demoralizing and destructive to discipline. The siege of Sebastopol has done this to a considerable degree, because to the ordinarj' influences of such operations the effects of a Avinter's campaign were superadded. Most of the old soldiers have been used up ; and the bulk of our regiments con- tain an undue proportion of recruits. To see a body of our soldiers coming back from the roads in the evening — to mark their careless air — listen to their loud voices in the ranks as LABOUR MONEY. 321 they tramp througli the dust — one would scarcely think ihem capable of being turned out as a clean smart regiment at ten minutes' notice. They are in coarse and rather dirty fatigue Buits of grey linen, and but for the appearance of order as they march, and their forage caps with the regimental numbers, they would not look, to any lounger in Hyde-park or the Phoinix, like the British soldier, all kempt and compact as he usually is pre- sented to the public gaze at home. The officers, too, often mere boys or j^oung lads not long from England, ride or march along with the men. The latter either sing a quick march-song in chorus, or whistle some air to keep the step. Such high spirits are very pleasant to see, but occasionally the march becomes rather too noisj- and riotous to suit the notions of a strict disci- plinarian ; old soldiers do not commit these irregularities, but young recruits who have seen little of military life, and who scarcely know what drill is, are apt to exceed the bounds of decorum and military rule when they find themselves free from pai'ades, and field days, and inspections, and put to work on the roads like labourers. If the men grumbled it would not be surprising, for they are not f aid for their labour ! Each man was promised 8d. a day for his work, and hy the rules of the sei-vice the British soldier is always paid when doing duty of the kind, but he has not yet received a penny. The reason for this is curious. All extra labour for which the soldier receives special recompence is generally under the direction of Engineer officers, and it has become a rule not to pay any man without the signature of an officer of that corps, as authority for the fact, and as a proof that the work has been really done. But the Engineer officers do not superintend the work on the roads under Mr. Doyne, and they will not sign the papers, and the result is that the men receive no money at all, and do not believe they will ever get a farthing. In this dilemma. General Simpson applied to the Commissary-General to know if he felt inclined to pay, but Sir George Maclean is understood to entertain very great doubts whether he could order the issue of money from the Commissariat chest for such pm'poses. It will be observed that in General Orders provision has been made to remedy this inconvenience, and that the men will be paid out of the Com- missariat chest. The great majority of the men will be dismissed from the roads this evening, and not more than 2500 or 2800 men will be required by Mr. Doyne for the \Yorks to be cai'ried on here- VOL. II. Y 322 SEBASTOPOL ONCE MORE. after. The men released from this kind of labour will now be available for the Generals of Division, who have been in much need of them, in order to prepare for the winter, and to get the works of necessity and utility completed in the divisional camps before it sets in. The main road will be opened on Saturday from Balaklava to General Simpson's head quarters. It will be an enduring mark of our presence, but one is irresistibly tempted to ask as he looks at it, " Wliat on earth would have become of our army this winter had Sebastopol not ftillen, if labour could not have been spared, and if the road on which we have daily employed 9000 men, and of which there is only a portion ready on the tenth of November, could not have been made.''" There is a locomotive on the railway below Kadikoi, and in two or three days two will be at work on the line. jyovc7nber 9. It is announced formally in the despatches that Lieutenant- General Sir W. J. Codrington, K.C.B., is to succeed General Sir James Simpson, K.C.B., in the command of the British army; and the announcement has caused a little surprise, but has at the same time been received by an expression of very general satisfaction, more especially in the Light Division, where the General is very popular with both ofHcers and men. Sir W. Codrington came out from England on the 23rd of February, 1854, with the rank of Colonel in the Coldstream Guards. He entered the army as Ensign and Lieutenant on the 22nd February, 1821 ; became Lieutenant in April, 1823 ; Captain in July, 1826 ; Lieutenant-Colonel and Colonel on the 9th of November, 1846; and Major-General on the 20th June, 1854. He commanded a brigade of the Light Division throughout the early portion of the campaign, and succeeded to the command of that Division on the retirement of Sir George Brown. Pos- sessed of a strong constitution, a spare and vigorous frame, quiet in manner, energetic in action, vigilant, and painstaking, Sir William Codrington acquired a high reputation throughout the war, and was often spoken of as the coming man — t/ie General, who was at last to arise out of the debris of old fogeyism, red tapery, staffery, Horse-Guardism, and of the British army; but the Eedan dammed the current which had eet so long and so quietly in his favour, because it was supposed that he did not exhibit all the qualities which were attributed to him in an eminent degree hy the army, and produced all the SIR w. codringtok's antecedents. 323 backwater, eddies, and whirlpools usually formed on such occa- sions. Sir \V. Codrington was possibly struggling with the internal conviction that the attack had become hopeless, and con- sequently felt some hesitation in sacrificing more soldiers when he perceived the failure of our assaults and the confusion of the regiments swarming on the face of the salient, but it is certain that in that supreme hour he did not display that extreme coolness, those internal resources, that self-possession and energy which every one had with good reason, from his antecedents at Alma and Inkermann, and his conduct during the winter campaign in the trenches, generally attributed to him. The revulsion of popular feeling, either in a nation or an army, is often unjust in proportion to its violence, and there were very many indeed who thought " it would be only fair to give Codrington another chance," and now he has indeed got it, and it is believed that he will use it nobly. Sir W. Codrington received the local rank of Lieutenant-General in Turkey on 30th July, 1855. Sir Colin Campbell was gazetted to the same rank on 23rd January in the same year. The only officers now with this army who are senior to Sir W. Codrington are Lord Rokeby and Lieutenant-General Barnard, Chief of the Staff, and it is to be hoped they will consent to do duty with the troops, commanded by an officer under whose direction an honourable and glorious career is expected to open upon our arms. Sir Richard Airey is junior to the new Commander-in-Chief, bat it is certain that he will go home at no very distant period, as his health is much broken. The Commander of the Turkish Contingent, General Vivian, is senior to the Commander of the British Army, and it will be necessary to prevent inconvenience that Sir William Codrington should receive a step of rank. By the by, when will the Gazette, or the authorities at home, abandon the foolish prac- tice, as it seems and is called, of giving local rank to officers in Turkey while they are serving in the Crimea ? Is it an indi- cation of future policy, and is the Crimea to be a part of Turkey? Surely it would be better to say at once that the local rank was given to officers " during the Russian war," or in the " army of the East," or something of the kind. But this is a small matter. There is a report that General KnoUys may soon be expected. He is senior to General Codrington in actual army rank, having been appointed Major-General on 20th June, 1854, and he stands higher on the list of Majors-General than either Lord Rokeby or General Codrington. Sir Richard Airey is so well acquainted y3 324 SEBASTOPOL ONCE MORE. •with the details of his department, that it would be a pit}- to lose his services at present ; but the report of his retirement is very general. Two persons are commonly spoken of, one of whom will probably be selected as his successor, these are Colonel Wetherall, of the Turkish Contingent (well known as one of the best officers in the army), and Colonel Herbert. It is almost certain that the latter will get the appointment, but there are not two opinions as to the qualifications of the two officers, not- withstandingColonel Herbert's acknowledged activity and ability. Colonel Wetherall is expected here momentarily. CHAPTEE XXXV. Both armies at bay — General Simpson's departure — Too much despatch- writing — Grand military work — 'Ihe duello between the north and the south sides — Treaty between France and England respecting the dis- tribution of booty and trophies — Bread stuffs — Quality and quantity — Objects of art placed at tlie disposal of the generals in-chief — A present to the Ottoman Porte — Keturus of the booty — Preparations for the winter — General Codrington's Order on assuming the command — General Simpson's farewell. Before Sebastopol, Novemler 13. The enemy have not stirred — they are only making huts and preparing for the winter. Still the allies expect, or rather hope, that the Russians will be considerate enough to play our game and come down to assault our position, and it is quite possible that the Russians are deludedenough to indulge in similaranticipations,and look forward to a number of little Morgartens amid the mountain passes of Aitodor and Mackenzie before the winter sets in. The extraordinary fineness of the weather affiards a daily reproach to whatever General it may be who ought to act offensively. "Within one day of the first anniversary of that terrible 14th of November, which will never be forgotten by those who spent it on this plateau, the air is still calm. Since the expedition returned from Kinburn not one drop of rain has fallen ; and each day has been cloudless, sunny, and almost too warm. The mornings and nights, however, begin to warn us that winter is impending. As I write, the sky is overcast and the atmosphere heavy — ii good specimen of a London November day, minus the fog, drizzle, or rain; but there is not a breath of wind. Under these circumstances it is to be regretted that the Admirals could not carry out tlieix' wishes concerning the expedition to Kafia, SIR w. codrington's good fortune. 325 ibr tlie onl^' ostensible oLstade to the tinclcrtakhiuartermaster-General. — Colonel the Hon. Percy Herbert. Assistant Quartermaster-(.Teneral. — Colonel the Hon. A. Hardinge. Deputy-Assistant Quartermasters-General. — Captain Willes, 77th ; Captain Torrens, 23rd; Captain Yacher, 33rd ; and Cap- tain Hammersley, 14th. Military Secretary. — Lieutenant-Colonel Blane. Assistant Military Secretary. — Major Boyle, 89th. Surgeon to Commander-in-Chief. — Dr. Fowler Smith. Adjutant-General. — Colonel Pakenham, C.B. Deputy Adjutant-General, and Deputy-Assistant Adjutants- General. — Lieutenant-Colonel Kennedy, 18th ; Captain Thomp- son, 4th; Captain Luard, 77th; Major Dowbiggin. Principal IMedical Officer.— Dr. Hall. The escort consists of a troop of the 11th Hussars, under Captain Yansittart, and of two companies of the Rihe Brigade, under Major Fyers. CHAPTER XXXTX. Movements in the Tlussian camp — The telcgr.nphs — Strangers and camp followers — Tlie gallant 23rd Fusiliers — Kain a welcome visitor — Ex- cellent warm clotliing — Huts and double tents — Activity of the llus- sians — Tlirec expeditions prevented by messages received from London and Paris — The Kussiau lire — Stagnation — Accidents — Festivities. Before Sebastopol, Kovemhcr 24. My hut commands a view of a considerable portion of the plateau at the other side of the Tchernaya, and overlooks the spurs at Mac- LOSS OF THE RAFTS. 357 kenzic's Farm, and the IJussian encampments at Inkermann, and between it and theLower Belbek, and I'rowi the windows the move- ments of the enemy are plainly visible in moderately clear weather. Yesterday we observed the whole of the enemy were in motion along the plateau, and from an early hour in the morning till two o'clock in the afternoon their battalions were marching to and fro, but it was evident they were only changing their troops, and that the regiments which left Mackenzie were replaced by regiments from the camp in the rear. The new comers at the spur huts seemed to be dressed better, to be taller men, and to wear darker coats than those wdio were relieved by them, and that appearance, which after all ma}^ Jpc ideal and deceptive, has given rise to the notion that the troops so close to us belong to the Imperial Guard. Their various camps are rapidly losing the look of snowy neatness of canvas, and are being converted into dingy rows of huts. We can see their telegraphs at work with the greatest facility, and to-day I can make out the flags witli my glass. It is a pity one cannot get the Imperial Code Book of Signals and a dictionarj'. They have a considerable quantity of cattle feeding among the brushwood at Inkermann, and theii' works on the north side are rapidly attaining prodigious and gigantic dimensions, which indicate an intention of holding their present position. Ever since the French have ceased to reply to theii" cannonade upon the town, they fire but seldom, but they do not hesitate to waste a shot or shell on a horseman riding near Fort Nicholas by the water's edge, or coming down the streets enfiladed by their fire ; and at night they open upon any light seen in the ruins of the city. The French batteries have been shut up by orders for the last fortnight or more. Our allies share with us the labours of destroying the docks, which will be ready to go at any moment we choose. The Sappers experienced great difficultj' in forming the mines, in consequence of the water running in on them from the clay, but with their usual energy they have worked away and formed the mines, which will contain eight small and two large magazines. It is expected that the explosion will just disintegrate the masoniy and tumble the stonework into the basins. The English works are under the charge of Captain Nicholson, E.E., and Mr. Deane bas lent the use of his batteries for the purpose of filing the mines, and will undertake that part of the operation. The loss of the rafts is confirmed. In a strong breeze, with ^ fresh running down the Bay of Cherson (which some people 358 EELAXATIOX. call the Liman of tlie Dnieper, although it is formed by the confincnce of that river and the Bng), the rafts parted from theii' moorings and got a■v^•ay towards Odessa. They will no doubt break up, and the floating timbers may work some mischief at sea during the stormy Avinter which we may expect. May we not anticipate talcs of sunken rocks, of sea serpents, and floating islands encountered between this and Varna ? As regiments are naturally very jealous of any injvistice being done to them in the eyes of the country by withhold- ing praise that is due to them, or misrepresenting that which they have done, it is not even now too late to do justice to the gallant 23rd Fusiliers, to the losses of which distin- guished regiment I perceive one of your coiTCspondents has already drawn attention. On the 8th of September, the 23rd Regiment was placed in the demi-parallel in rear of Egerton's rifle-pit, and was in reserve in that position. After the attacking parties went out, the advanced trenches not being filled up as quickly as they ought to have been, the 23rd Regi- ment went to the front, passing several regiments belonging to the attacking brigades, and on arriving at the 5th parallel. General Codrington ordered Colonel Lysons to take out a wing of his regiment, and to attack the proper right flank of the Eedan. Colonel Lysons formed five companies in line, and gave the word, " The line will advance — quick march !" The men at once rushed over the parapet, the young officers of the regiment being in front and waving their swords in the air. Every man followed with the utmost enthusiasm. The instant they ap- peared on the open space, round shot, grape, canister, and rifle bullets and musket balls came through their ranks in a perfect storm from the Spur Battery on the left, the Barrack Battery, and the flank of the Eedan in front. The regiment rushed on and pressed up to the parapet of the salient, leaving many a brave fellow on the ground, and there amid that swarm- ing hive they were exposed to a heavy fire from the face of the Eedan close over their right shoulders. Colonel Lj^sons got close to the ditch at the re-entering angle, and Avas shot by a Eussian from the parapet above so that the ball passed down into the thigh, where it still remains. There were then close to the Colonel only Captain Dunne, Lieutenant DjTieley, Cor- poral Shields, and about twenty-five men, the ground in the rear being covered with the killed and wounded. Captain Dunne w^as ordered by the Colonel to collect the stragglers who were THE TWENTY-THIRD FUSILIERS. 359 coming- up, to form them together, and charge across the ditch and up the parapet, and some of them got on the top of the parapet in this pUice, and were found dead there in the morning, and 200 out of 282 men were wounded. As Colonel Lysons crawled back to the salient he was shot through the skii'ts of the coat. Before Sebastopol, November 20. The army is getting into better shape and form every day. Excellent warm clothing has been issued to the men, and so uniform is it in style that no one can distinguish officers from men, unless by the difi'erence of style and bearing. Our allies are asto- nished at the profuseness of our military wardrobe, which not only contains a waterproof suit, helmet and all, but fm* coats and caps, cowhide boots, tweed coats lined with cat or rabbit skin, &c., and for the officers, suits of sealskin, sold at moderate prices. The French only receive from theii- Government an ordinai-y cloth capote, and must buy any waterproofs or furs which they may find necessary. The sheepskin coats of last year are not in Bauch favoiu' ; they have a very high odour, and are found to be extremely sought after as residences by objectionable insects of predatory habits. The huts blown down by the explosion are nearly rebuilt, but the extent of canvas-covering which is still visible over the camp would astonish those who imagine all the :roops to be within wooden walls. However, a good double :ent well pitched and dug out is more comfortable for one man :han most huts wo aid be, as it is extremely difficult to stanch ;he latter, and the former is always sure to be air and water- tight. For a sergeant's guard, however, a tent is very uncom- fortable, because there can be no fii-eplace in it which would not expose some of the inmates to be roasted, and stoves are found to smoke with wood and coal, and to be dangerous with charcoal. The cookhouses offer guarantees for the liealth of the men, and with the blessing of Heaven the army will not suffer any serious detriment from the severities of this climate, although it would be too much to expect entire freedom from some kind of priva- tions on the part of an army cantoned on the open ground during a Crimean winter. The roads, indeed, even now, when we have no trenches, no prospects of an attack, no want of labour — the roads are even now objects of much interest to us all. The whistling locomotives on the railway — the " Alliance," the " Victory" — which recal to us the familiar sounds of Wolver- 360 RELAXATION. hampton or of Didcot, and make iis believe for the moment that we are in a civilized countrj', are not to be taken as material guarantees for the possession of material comforts in the coming winter. Trains may be snowed up in the Crimea as in England, and, despite the efforts of Land Transport and Commissariat, supplies of certain articles cannot be accumulated at the divisional dejjofs in any large proportion to tlie wants of the army. What do you think of 319 sheep being killed in one day for a single division of the army, and of that division re- quiring 100 more sheep to be sacrificed before they had " their pound of flesh" and their full allowance of meat rations ? But these roads are very good, and give no just ground for appre- hension of failure, although it is the habit of some persons either to sneer at them as being too Eomanesque in grandeur and solidity, or to prophes}'^ their dissolution in the winter. Mr. Beatty, with small means at his command, has placed the raih way on an excellent basis, as far as wood, iron, and stone can secure it. The soundness of his judgment in lajdngout the line is confirmed by Mr. Doyne's adoption of a course very nearly parallel to it throughout for the grand main road between Balaklava and the camp — a tribute which has not been, however, unattended by evils, inasmuch as the parallelism has given rise to fears that the proximity of the one may interfere with the safe working of the other. Mr. Beatty goes home immediately, if, indeed, he has not already gone, and I much regret that he has been obliged to retire from a post in which he rendered services not only to the army collectively, but to many individuals in it, who will always retain a deep sense of his kindness and friendly assistance in times of domestic difiiculty about huts and transports. Ah'eady the mud is beginning to tell upon our animals. I saw no less than seven dead mules and horses in one little gully crossing the line of transport, yesterday. Melancholy quadrupeds, with sore backs and rib-developed flanks, whom nobody cares to own, begin even thus early to wander disconsolately about the camp, and to crawl to the lee of sheltering walls. The Eussians, having made good roads between their camps, and having esta- blished themselves comfortably on the other side of the Tchernaya, seem resolved to give us an uneasy time of it in Sebastopol, and never ceased firing to-day from one end of the Bay to the other. I ventured to express an opinion almost immediately after the capture of the south side, that the enemy's preparations indicated the intention of wintering where they lay. We have been aU THE RUSSIAN POSITION. 361 too prone, not only in England, but out here, to calculate on advantages to be gained by the privations to which the enemy would be exposed, or by imaginary wants to which they were likely in our, opinion to be subjected. But the Russian is well supplied with all munitions of war, and with the means of sub- sistence. The entire strength of the empire has been devoted to the supplies of the Crimean army, and the Eussian General no doubt calculates on the concentration of such a force in the Crimea next spring as will enable him to meet the allies in every point which they may assail. He knows that Perekop is not to be reached by a large force, owing to the want of water, and to its geographical position, and that no army can operate in the rear of his position in consequence of the nature of the country. It is not because St. Vladimir was converted in the Crimea that Prince Gortschak off holds Mackenzie's Farm and the plateau of the Pelbek and Tchernaya. But he knows that until he is dislodged, the allies are paralysed, and that they can establish no safe basis of operations against Nicholaieff or Cherson while he is at Simpheropol, for it would be contrary to common sense to leave such an army in their rear and flank. He hopes, there- fore, either to be able to hold the Crimea next campaign, or to be able to make such dispositions in the event of a great defeat as wall insure the safe retreat of his army by Perekop and Tchongar, and perhaps by a third road, of the existence of which across the Sivash there are very strong indications. The electric telegraph has kindly aided him in establishing himself all the more securely, for the rumour of a Eussian attack, to which it gave official weight, prevented the occupation of Kaffa and the destruction of Arabat this autumn ; and who can saj^ how the country behind Theodosia (Kalia) will be seamed with batteries should we try a descent next spring ? Talk of the harm done by newspaper correspondents compared with that which has been done by the electric telegraph ! The iii-st expedition to Kertch, the despatch of the* Highlanders to Eupatoria, and the expedi- tion to Kaffa were all prevented by our electric batteries at London and Paris, and it is very questionable if they did not do the allies more harm than the Eussian guns. The French were, indeed, adverse to the Kafia movement, and Admiral Bruat was, it appears, more especially opposed to it ; but there is no reason to doubt that it would have been successful, and the occupation of that place and the destruction of Arabat, would 362 KELAXATION. have most materially complicated the difficulty of the Russian position, and contributed to the strength of the allies. Before SEBASxcpOii, Kovemher 30. The needy knife-grinder would not be in possession of more abmidant materials for anecdote had he lived out here for the last week than he was when he met Mr. Canning, several years ago, in the neighbourhood of Eton. We are all ankle-deep in mud. No, that would be nothing. It would be no great matter of complaint or gi'ievance if we had to deal with the ordinaay material, so familiar to all Londoners after a few wet days, before the scavengers remove the formidable soft parapets which line the kerbstones. That can be scraped off, cleaned, rubbed away, or w^ashed out. This, nothing but long and persevering eSbrts, continually renewed, and combining all the former operations, can remove. It sticks in pasty clods to the shoes, and will insist on being brought into clean huts and tents to visit your friends. It has a great affection for straws, with which it succeeds in working itself up into a kind of gigantic brick, somewhat underdone, in which condition it threatens to build your legs into the ground if you stand long enough in one place to give it a chance ; and it mightily affects horseshoes also, and sucks them off, with a loud smack of relish, in those little ravines between rocky hill-sides in which it exercises the greatest in- fluence. Literally and truly, it is like glue half boiled and spread over the face of the earth for the depth of several feet. It is no joke for a soldier to see his sleeping-place, in hut or tent, covered with this nasty slime ; yet they cannot be kept clean. Take but one step outside, and j^ou are done for. The mud is lying in wait for you, and you just cai-ry back as much on your feet as if you had walked a mile. Carts stick immovably in the ground, or the wheels and axles fly into- pieces from the strain of the horses and mules. These have, indeed, led a -vvT'etched existence ever since this weather began. As I write, the air resounds with the noise of the blows inflicted on the heads, sides, and legs of the miserable quadrupeds draw- ing fuel and stores from the Commissariat depot of the division. But then, it wUl be said that huts can be swept out and cleaned. Doubting the fact considerably from my personal experience, I must be pennitted to tell our good friends the pubUc that they are labouring under great delusions respecting these same huts. Now what, for example, do tbey think of the Guards being at THE NEW HUTS. 363 this present moment under canvas, and likely to be so till the middle of January or thereabouts ? It is, of course, no 'as killed. The man is still alive ; he was only knocked over by a shot, which hit him in the heels. The scene of the story so graphically told was between the second and third parallels of the Green-hill trenches, and the time was the 22nd or 23rd of November, 1854. The name of the man who was wounded is James Sims ; he is now serving in the band of the gallant 68th. The name of his brave comrade is Samuel Biu-rows ; he was in the band of the same regiment at the time, but he is now doing duty in the rank and file. The Rifle officer sought to find the man to reward him with a couple of pounds, but what the true soldier looks for is honour, and not money ; and I am assured that Sims and Burrows Avould be prouder of a medal, or some such honorary mark of distinction, than of a full iiurse. Let me add this fact : — Sims was one of the men who aided in carrying off General Torrcns from the field of Inkermann. The artillery were falling back for want of ammunition. A portion of the 68th, torn by a tremendous fire, to which they could not reply, were slowly and sternly retiring, and the Russians advanced on the litter-bearers with a loud yell. General ToiTcns RESPECT FOE THE DKAD. 427 ordered the men to leave him. Tliey refused, and continued to carry him through the fire. ]le took down the name of Sims, and promised to do something for him, but most likely the gallant General forgot it. The friends of the deceased olficers whose bones lie in the Crimea have read the observations which were made by Lord Palmerstou, in reply to Sir J. Fergusson, with the deepest interest, and it must be confessed that the treatment of tlie burial-grounds of tlie enemy by the Turks at Balaklava and Kertch might ailbrd tlie allies some uneasiness, lest, in their undiscriminating revenge, the llussians might destroy tlie few memorials that aifection has been able to erect to friends and relatives departed in our scattered grave-yards. Neither in our attack on the Cemetery, nor in the French assault on and seizure of the Quarantine Church and Cemetery, was any damage done to the tombs, except by the shot and shell of the Russians, and we have sought to preserve respect to the remains of their dead by every means in our power. On most of the tombstones on Cathcart's- hill, and in the other divisional grave-yards, a few words in Russian and a cross have been engraved, to propitiate, as it were, the enemy, and to ask for their forbearance. The graves of some officers are still, I believe, unmarked, and as for the non- commissioned officers and the mere rank and file, their resting- places, spread all over the camp, are scarcely to be distinguished, ti'om the rows of mounds which sliovi"^ where dead horses and butchers' offal have been buried. Would it not be well to en- close all these detached burial-grounds with substantial walls, or even with timber fences, and then to raise in each a monumental column or tablet, with the names, as far as they can be ascer- tained, of those who rest inside, ere the army leaves the Crimea ? Perhaps it would touch the soldier more deeply than gold, or pay itself, to see the country so thoughtful of his departed comrades. There are, of course, graves here and there, trenches hastily dug during an armistice, in which the fallen have been as hastily interred, which the tramp of war has beaten down so that they never will be recognised till some deep plougher turns up the bones to light in ages to come ; but let us mai'k, as far as we know them, the resting-places of these British dead, who lie so far from fi-iends and home. Now that our army has breathing time, the large divisional grave-j'ards of the men have been enclosed by a shallow trench of a i'ew inches in depth, and sometimes by a low wall of loose 428 PEACE ONCE MORE IN THE CRIMEA. stones ; biit, if the Governruent obtains a gviarantee or a promise from the llussian Governnii'nt that they will take means to prevent the Tartars or the peasantry destroyincr any enclosures on their retm-ii, it would be well to make the walls permanent, hij^jh, and strong, as I have suggested. Most of the plateau was, I believe. Crown property — at all events, it was unculti- vated — there were only two or three I'arms on the whole of it, and the ground around them will have been well enriched ere we leave it. The head-quarters was one of these farms, and the plain in which the house stands reeks with animal matter, to which the French, from their adjacent hospital, have unfor- tunately been forced to make large additions verj' recently. CHAPTER XLV. PEACE ONCE MOEE IN THE CEIMEA. Proclamation of peace — Reflections on the event — War and its plagues — Attaclts of June 18tli and September 8th — Sebastopol might have been taken in 18.54 — Speech of a Russian officer — Russian comic song — Strange stories — Dimensions of tlie war — Our inactivity after tlie battle of Alma surprised the Russians — Russian military band — Grand review of tlie Frencli and English armies — The Russian fleet — Effects of playing with a shell. Heights of Sebastopol, Saturday, April 0. TiiK proclamation of peace was made to the allied armies by salutes of 101 guns, fired by the field batteries of the Light and Second Division, from the heights over the plain of Balaklava, by the French batteries at the Quartier Genei'ale, by the Sar- dinian redoubts at Fcdukhine, and by the men-of-war at Kamiesch and Kazatch, at two o'clock p.m. on Wednesday, the 2nd of April ; but an early General Order and a very widely- spread rumour had diffused the intelligence widely among officers and men long before the cannon exultingly announced it with their thundering voices. At Balaklava the news was known by eight o'clock, and the "Leander," Captain Rice, bearing the flag of Admiral Fremantle, was " dressed " with the flags of the allies about that hour, and the merchant shipping by order followed her example, so that the harbour presented a gayer scene probably than human eye ever witnessed there since it was first discovered by some most investigating, shore-hugging, and fissure-pursuing navigator. It was a fine day, — at least it appeared so, by contrast with its niEPARATIONS FOIl UEPAUTURE. 429 recent predecessors, — and the effect of the firing from so many points, all of which were visible from the heights of the plateau near the Woronzoff-road, was very fine. The enemy saw the smoke and heard the roar of our guns, but they maintained a stern and gloomy silence. One would have thought that they, above all, would have shown some signs of satisfaction at the peace which they sought, and which they had made such sacrifices to obtain, while no one would have much wondered if the batteries of the English and Sardinians expressed no opinion on the subject. However, there was not a Russian shot fired or flag hoisted from Fort Constantine to Mackenzie, nor has any increase in our intimac)^ taken place, although we have ceased to be enemies. The Tchernaya is the boundary of our wanderings, and the Commander-in-Chief in General Orders reminds the army that the limits originally assigned to them will be strictly maintained. April 11. The preparations for the speedy evacuation of the Crimea arc pressed on with rapidity and energy. Each division collects about 4,000 shot a-day, and they are carried to Balaklava as fast as the means at our disposal — railway and land transport — will permit. It is stated that 6000 Sardinians will be the fi^s^ to leave, and the Guards will probably be the first EnglisL troops to quit the scene of their suttering, of their endurance, and of their glory. Alas ! how many will lie here till the judgment-day ! Wlio can tell how many have perished whose lives might have been spared — how many an unknown grave might have been untenanted, how many a life wasted which ought to have been saved to the country, to ft'iends, to an honoured old age ! These questions may never be answered, least of all are they likely to be answered at Chelsea Hospital, where the very banners would fall with leaden weight upon the heads of those who should speak the truth that is in them. Heaven lets loose all its plagues on those who delight in war, and on those who shed men's blood, even in the holiest causes. The pestilence by day and night, the deadly fever, the cholera, dysenteiy ; the incompetence, and stupidity, and apathy of chieftains ; the strategical errors of great captains ; culpable inactivity and fatal audacity, — all these follow in the train of victorious armies, and kill many more than the bullet or the sword. But war has its rules. The bloody profession by which liberty is achieved or crushed — by which States are saved or an- 430 PEACE ONCE MORE IN THE CRIMEA. nilulatecl, has certain fixed principles for its guidance, and the homcBopathic practitioner in the art, or the quack, the charlatan, or the noble amateur, will soon be detected and overwhelmed in the horrors of ruin and defeat. I'erhaps on no occasion has the neglect of the course of regular practice been so severely- punished, even although in the end the object has been gained, as in the siege of Sebastopol. It is the fii'st instance on record in which such a place has been taken by the mere fire of artillery ; for it is admitted by the Russians that even if the assault on the Malakhotf had been repelled, they must have abandoned a place exposed at everj' nook and chink and ci-anny to such a fire that the very heavens seemed to rain shot and shell upon them. We lost an army in establishing that fire, and we have not (notwithstanding the honeyed words of Lord Palrnerston, every soldier here feels what I say is the truth) — we have not added to our reputation — nay, we have not sus- tained it — in the attacks of the 18th of June and the 8th of September. And will it be said that because the particulars of those conflicts have been made known to the world, and because the daring, the devotion, the gallantry, the heroism of our officers and men have been displayed before its eyes, that the English nation has lost its military lircst'njc! Would it have been possible, think you, to have concealed and slurred over our failures ? Would it have been better to let the story be told in Russian despatches, in French Monitciirs, in English Gazettes 1 No ; the very dead on Cathcart's-hill would be wronged as they lay mute in their bloody slirouds, and calumny and falsehood would insult that warrior race, which is not less than Roman, because it, too, has known a Trebia and a Thrasymene. We all f ^el well assurc>d that it was no fault of our officers or men that Ave did not take the Redan, and Ave can point to the trenches piled deep with our gallant allies before the Redan of Careening Ray and the Central Bastion, and to the Malakhoff, won with- out the loss of 200 men, and invoke the goddess Fortune ! Alas, she does not always fiivour the daring ; she leaves them some- times lifeless at the bloodstained embrasure, before the shattered traverse, in the deadly ditch, and she demands, as hostages, for the bestowal of her favours, skill and prudence, as well as audacity and courage. Every statement made by the Russian officers in conversation concurs in this — that we might have taken Sebastopol in Sep- tember, 1854 ; that they were not only prepared to abandon f ho RUSSIAN COMIC SONG. 431 city to its fate, but that they regarded it as untenable and in- capable of defence, and had some doubts of their position in the Crimea itself, till our inaction gave jMenscbikoft" courage, and raised in him hopes of an honourable defence, which might enable him to hold us in check, or to expose us to the attack of overwhelming masses. They admit that their great error was the assumption of a simply defensive attitude after the battle of Inkermann, and they now feel that they ought to have renewed the attack upon our enfeebled army, notwithstanding the terrible loss they suffered in that memorable action. It may be mere military fanfaronade on their part to put forward such an asser- tion, but the Russians one and all declare that they could have retaken the MalakhofF under the fire of their ships, but that it had been clearly demonstrated since the fire opened on Sep- tember the 5th, that it would be impossible to hold the south side under the increasing weight and proximity of the bombard- ment. " It was a veritable butchery, which demoralized our men so far as to make them doubt the chances of continuing the struggle. We lost 3000 men a-day. No part of the city was safe, except the actual bombproofs in the batteries. We were content to have beaten the English at the Itedan, to have repulsed the French at the Bastion of Careening Bay (the Little Eedan), the Gervais Battery, and the Bastion Centrale, and to leave them the credit of surprising the MalakhofF; but, even had we held it, we must soon have retired to the north side, and we had been preparing for that contingency for some days." Such was the speech of one of their Staff to an officer of high rank in our service. There is a long song on the- incidents of the war very popular in the Russian camp, in which Prince Menschikoff is exposed to some ridicule, and the allies to severe sarcasm. Menschikott' is described as looking out of the window of a house in Bakshiserai, and inquiring for news from Sebastopol, and courier after coiu'ier arrives and saj^s, " Oh ! Sebastopol is safe." '*' And what are the allies doing ?" — " Oh ! they are breaking down the houses of Balaklava and eating grapes." The same news for a day or two. At last a courier tells him the allies are cutting twigs in the valleySj and that they are digging great furrows three-quarters of a mile from the place, but that thej^ are afraid to approach it, and that the ships have begun to fire on them. " I declare they are going to besiege it," says he, "and, if so, I must defend it." And so he sends for his engineers, and they at first think the 4:32 PEACE ONCE MORE IN THE CRIMEA. allies must be digging for gold, misled by ancient traditions about the mines, but at last they niako a reconnaissance, and, finding that the allies are really making distant a])proaches, they saj', " Why, we shall have time to throw up works, too ;" and so they draw up their plans, and Todtleben says, " Give me five days, and I'll mount three guns for their two;" and Meuschikoii' dances and sings " Ha, ha ! I've saved Sebastopol !" The Russians were astonished at their own success ; above all, they were surprised at the supineness and want of vigilance among the allies. They tell stories of their stealing in upon our sentries and carrying them off, and of their rushing at night into our trenches, and finding the men asleep in their blankets ; they recount with great glee the capture of a sergeant and five men in daylight, all sound in slumber (poor wretches, ill-fed, ill- clad, and worked beyond the endurance of human nature), in one of the ravines towards Inkermann. Among many stories of the kind which I have heard, one is remarkable, ^^'hen the attack on Inkermann was projected, it was arranged that one strong column of men, having crossed the bridge of the Tchernaya, near the head of the harbour, should march along the road which winds up above the Quarries ravine, and which leads right upon the ground then occupied by Evans's Division, but this was conceived to be the most daring part of the enter- prise, "as no doubt, strong pickets would be posted on that road, and guns commanding the bridge, or raking the road, would be placed behind the scarps, and these guns would have to be taken, and the pickets and their supports driven in." Judge of our astonishment when we found no scarps at all, and not a single gun on this point. Our General cried, as he gained the level oi" the plateau without a shot being fired, ' We have them— Sebas- topol is saved !' " The bridge over the Tchernaya was not repaired for the passage of men and guns till it was some time past five 'clock in the morning of the 5th, and the men did not begin to i-epair it till after dark on the preceding evening. But, after all, we may have been saved by the very imbecility of our leaders. When the conflict before Sebastopol assumed such gigantic proportions it became the war itself. The armies of Russia were absorbed into it, and perished in detail. Had we taken Sebastopol at the outset, we must have been pi-epared, with our small army, to meet those corps d'armee which lost tens of thousands in their hasty march to relieve the place, but who, in the event of its capture, would have closed slowly round PEACK IN THE CRIMEA. 433 US, and the same incapacity which prevented our reaping the fruits of our coup-de-main in attempting the Crimean expedi- tion, might have led to more serious evils in a protracted cam- paign in the open field against a numerous and well-handled, if not a daring, enemy. Success has indeed been obtained, but its cost has been great. What is to be said now if much of that cost can be shown to have been a gratuitous outlay of time and money? To me, next to the gravej'arc"' ;, now verdant oases in the dark plateau, the most melancho^; and significant object is our old parallel opened against the ^.alakholf, which the French took from us and adopted as the basis of their attack in the spring of 1855. The battle of the Alma had produced such an effect on the inhabitants that tliere seemed to be no chance of offering resist- ance to the allies, and the fall of the town was regarded as certain. The Russians, however, meditated a great revenge, and, knowing the weakness of our army, and that it could not hold the heights and storm the town at the same time, they intended, according to this officer, to take the very plateau on whi(;h we ai'e now encamped, and to fall on our troops while we were dis- organized by our success, and get them between the fire of the Russian shipping, of the northern forts, and of the field artillery outside the place. At first they could not understand the flank march to Balaklava, except as a manoeuvi'e to escape the fire of the north forts, and to get at the weak side of the city, and for three or four days they waited uncertain what to do, until the}' learned we were preparing for a siege. It was then— that is, about five days after we appeared before the place — that they commenced their works. Men, women, and children laboured at them with zeal, and for the first time a hope was entertained of saving Sebastopol, or of maintaining the defence till the corps d'armee destined for its relief could march down to raise the siege. The same officer further stated that on the 9th of Sep- tember he was in command of the advanced posts at Mackenzie, and that his orders were " to fall back and retire with the guns on the appearance of the enemy in force." He declares that the Russians were astonislied at our inactivity, and that they ex- pected a general oftensive movement as soon as we had obtained possession of the south side. The amicable intercourse between the allies and their late enemy is on the increase. It is stated that the Jews have got up a fund for the deserters of their persuasion from the Russian VOL. II. F F 434 PEACK OXCK MORE IX THE CRniEA. ai'my, and that botli Jews and Greeks have deserted, uud have been sent to Constantinople. Credat Judceus ! One man who came into Bahiklava the other day was observed to be very anxious about the walls of a new store. On being asked what he was about, he confessed he was searching for the site of his house, in the cellar of which he had deposited a good deal of plate and valuables. I fear he had but a Flemish account of them. The Ixussian military band (150 strong) at Mackenzie is a great object of attraction. It plays at four o'clock every afternoon. At the hj-mn of '' God preserve the Czar," or what- ever the exact translation of the title may be, to-daj', all the Russians took oft their caps. I could have v.'ished that our officers who were present, and who understood the occasion, had done the same, for immediately afterwards, when the band played " God save the Queen," the Russians uncovered their heads, and paid to our national anthem the same mark of respect as the}^ had paid to their own. A Russian officer — a very yo\mg man — covered with orders, was pointed out to some of the officers as one who had never left the Flagstaff Bastion for eleven montlis. He had been shot through the body, wounded in the head, in the arm, and in the thigh, on difiercnt occasions, and had insisted on remaining in the bastion, nor would he permit himself to be removed to hospital. Many of the soldiers wore the Cross of St. George and other orders. Vvhat a ])he- uomenon would a British private be with the riband of the C.B. ou his breast ! The Russians are very anxious to get some of oiu" medals, and there are some stories afloat concerning the cleverness with which some men have sold florins at high prices for Sebastopol vacuals. The thermometer at nine o'clock this morning stood at 70° in tlie shade ! It is now blowing freshly, or rather hotly, from the south, and the air is sickly and disagreeable. The wind has nearly all the characteristics of a sirocco, but the snow still ishines brightly on the distant hill-sides, and covers the summit ledge of Tcliatir Dagh. Many expeditions have been planned. The very top of the mountain I have just named scarcely suffices I'or the ambition of some of our daring tourists, and the heights of the Alma, the Empress's Palace at Orianda, Prince Woron- zofF's grand castle near Yalta, Bakshiscrai, and Simpheropol, have been variously combined as points of interest in the excur- .sions which arc coming off almost immediately. There are only two drawbacks to the pleasures we anticipate in these invasions A RUSSIAN VIRAGO. 435 of pleasant valleys and higli mountain passes, hitherto barred to us by the lance-point of the Cossack. The typhus is described to be raging- in the Russian camps, particularly at Bakshiserai and Simpheropol, and we have been warned by the Eussian officers that it is dangerous to travel in small parties, or to be out after dark in the neighbourhood of the Greek districts. The people of Balaklava, of Karanyi, of Kadikoi, of Kamara, and of Tchorgoun, nearly all of whom are Greeks, are living in great misery at Simpheropol and Bakshiserai, and they naturallj^ re- gard us as the cause of all their miseries and misfortunes ; and so they are likely, it is said, to take pot shots at solitary travel- lers, and to try and gratify their religious rancour and their sacred love of gold at one discharge. However, this bugbear is not likely to deter many from going inside the Russian lines. Already some officers have penetrated to Bakshiserai, and have returned with alarming accounts of the price of eatables, drink- ables, and accommodation, — porter twenty francs a bottle, cham- pagne thirty-five francs a bottle, dinner and bed a small fortune. There are some very hospitable fellows among the Russian officers, and they give and take invitations to lunch, dinner, and supper very freely. One of our Generals was up at j\Iackenzie yesterday, and was asked to stay to tea by a Eussian of rank, whose hut he was visiting, but it so happened that Madame, who presided at the tea-table, was present, and she darted such a look at her peccant spouse when he gave the invitation, and glared so fiercely at the heretical English, that our General and Staff turned tail and bolted, leaving the Ruski to the enjoyment of the lecture which Madame Caudelski would no doubt inflict upon him. Perhaps the poor lady was short of spoons, or trembled for her stock of sugar. The Muscov runs quite tame through our camps, and is to be found ever^'where. One of their Generals made a great sensation by driving through the camp in a neat brougham, drawn by a pair of good steppers, and " worked" by a servant in very handsome livery, with an extra plush, in similar uniform of laced coat and cockaded hat, behind him. Four of them went to head-quarters in a droschky, drawn by a team of handsome ponies, with an escort of Lancers, and spent some time in looking at the English roads and at the rail- way works, and in examining the new town of Balaklava. As one gets accustomed to the Russian face it becomes less dis- pleasing, and there are undeniably many of them who are exceed- ingly like Englishmen — more so than any foreigners I have ever F F 2 43G PEACE ONCE MOKE IN THE CUIMEA. seen. When drunk tlicy are brutish and stupid-looking, but many of them possess intelligent features, and eyes with an ex- pression of great acuteness and cunning, and they are said to drive very hard bargains with the canteenmen. As there is nothing doing in camp 1 intend to proceed on a Aveek's excursion to the banks of the Alma, retracing the course of our march, thence to Simpheropol, Tchatir Dagh, I'aksbiserai, and thence to the south coast, visiting Orianda and Yalta, and returning by Aloujjka through the valley of Jiaidar. The llussians have sent passes to head-quarters, with one of which I have betin kindly furnished. It is as follows : — " Carte de passe pour les avant postes" (in print), and "General de Service Tchervinsky ;" then in Russian, " Allowed to pass — General, Major," in MS. A gi-eat impediment to these little excursions is the condition of the mountain roads, which have been scarped, and have not yet been repaired, so that it is difficult to get carts across them, and it is necessary to carry tents and provisions for man and beast, unless one is bound for either of the large towns of the Crimea. There is nothing which calls ibr attention or remark in the camps. Our artillery and Land Transport are employed in carrying down guns and shot to the harbour. When the skids are put on going down tlie declines, the road is severely tested by the weight of the heavy guns, weighing three tons and up- wards, but it stands remarkably well, and that it does so under such heavy and frequent pressure is the best proof of its ex- cellence. A stone tablet has been let into the solid rock by the roadside at Kadikoi, bearing this inscription : — " This )oad was made by the British Army, assisted by the Army Works Corps, under the direction of ]\Ir. Doyne, C.E., 1855." I am glad to say that the Generals of Division, acting probably on directions from head-quarters, have given orders for the proper enclosure of the graveyards on the plateau. A high stone wall is being erected around the cemetery at Cathcart's-hill, and admission can only be procured through the gateway, to which there will be a proper door and lock. The interior has been cleaned and cleared of stones and rubbish. It is to be hoped that the Russians will not turn our tombstones into hearthstones and iireplaces I am sorry to say tliat every Russian who goes into Bala- klava will see two of his churches somewhat desecrated ; the church of Kadikoi is used as a storehouse for barley, banks of the Tchernaya, and close to the Traktir-bridge, ir.io a succession of gardens, each appropriated to different companies of the regiments encamped in the neighbom-hood. Sic vos non vobLi. As we enter the gorge which leads into the valley of Varnutka we met some Tartar families, men and TARTAR YOUNGSTERS. Ai-J children, on the road, looking out possibly for some place to squat on. These poor ci-eatures are menaced with a forced return to their nomadic habits of centuries ago. Civilization has corrupted them. The youngsters run alongside j-our horse, crying out, if you are English, " I say, Johnny, piaster, (give me piaster, Johnny ! ") if you are French, "Doe dong (intended for dites done), dounez-moi piastre," — a liright- eyed, handsome race when young, with fine teeth and cleai- complexions ; and venerable looking when old, owing to their marked features and long beards, but in manhood sly, avaricious, sh}"-, and suspicious. The Russians give bad accounts of them, and say they are not to be trusted, that they are revengeful and ill-disposed — the slaveowner's account of his nigger. Most of the fruit trees in the pretty valley of Miskomia and Varnutka have been cut down for fuel. Crossing the ridge which separates this valley from that of Baidar, we pass the gutted and half-ruined chateau dii Petroflsk3^ For a long time this charming little villa supplied French and English cavalry and outposts with delicious wine from its cellars, and was spared from ruin ; but bit by bit things were taken away, and at last a general spoliation was made of all the place contained — the furniture was smashed to atoms, the doors broken, the windows carried away. One officer attached tct the light cavalry regiment quartered there took away a handsome china service, and most of these dangerous visitors brought off some memento of their visits. The Tartars were rather rejoiced at the ruin of the place, for Count Petroffsky was no favourite with them, but they alwaj's express the greatest regard and affection for Prince Woronzoff. Baidar itself — a middling Tartar hamlet at the best of times — looks worse than ever now ; garance dyed breeches were hanging out of the window-holes on all sides, and outside one very shaky, tumble-down wattle-house there was a board declaring that there was good eating and di-inking in the Cafe Pelissier. The village has one advantage, of which no Tartar village is ever destitute — a stream of clear water flows through it, and there are two or three fine springs close at hand. The people are miserable ; the men are employed by the French as wood cutters and as drivers of arabas, but the money they re- ceive is not sufficient to procure them full supplies of food or proper clothing. From Baidar the road ascends by the mountain ridges to the Foross or Phoros Pass, and alibrds many delightful views of the great valley of Baidar, which is, as it were, a vast 44G PEACE ONCE MORE IN THE CUIMEA. wooded basin, surrounded by mountain and liill ranges covered with trees and sweeping right round it. Bhickbirds, tlarushes, nightingales, large and gaudily-coloured jays, wood-pigeons, doves, rock-pigeons, hawks, falcons, and great numbers of mag- pies, frequent the valley, and those which have good voices make it right musical towards sunset. Nightingales are veiy numerous, and so are varieties of -flycatchers, titmice, and buntings. In winter the hilLs are full of woodcock, the springs arc haunted by snipe, wild duck, widgeon, and teal; and the woods give shelter not only to roe-deer, but, if certain veracious reports promulgated this very winter are to be believed, to wolves and bears. The road to Phoros is not good, and in winter must have been of little use. The summit of the pass at Phoros is surmounted by a stone arch which crosses the road at a place guarded on every side by walls of rock, hundi-eds of feet in height. There is a French guard here, and, of course, we had to exhibit, amid many excuses, our passes. That was but a little matter, but on entering the archway we iound it was fortified after the first rules of art ; there were traverses and parapets of great height and thickness, and at the other side of the arch were similar obstacles. The mules were taken out of the cart ; then it was unloaded, and the things carried one by one to the other side of these entrenchments : then the wheels were taken oif, and by the united strength of our whole party, aided by some good- natured French soldiers, the cart itself was lifted up bodily and carried across all the gabions, earthworks, and traverses, and landed with a cheer on the narrow road at the other side of the pass. The scene which bursts upon the eye on emerging from the arch is one of the finest I have ever witnessed — indeed, I am not sure that it is not the most beautiful and grand that I have ever seen. You find yourself standing in a very narrow road, on the left hand of which a sheer slab of rock rises to the height of 600 or 700 feet above you — its surface rent with fissui-es, here and there dotted hj stunted firs, which cling like weeds to its surface, diversified with all the tints for which volcanic rocks are remarkable. At the base of this cliff, which stretches furtlier than the sight can trace it, is a ragged fringe of mighty boulders, of fragments of mountains tossed down in the wildest confusion amid the straggling brushwood. On your right, nearly 1,000 feet below you, is the sea, washing the narrow selvage of land which tumbles down from beneath your I'eet in waves of verdure, covered with thick irroves and dotted CRIMEAJT no ADS. 447 witli rocks, so rapidly that tlie dark blue waters, which are really nearly a mile distant, seem to be only a few hundi-ed yards from the road. This narrow shelving strip of land, formed of the debris of the mountain-chain above it, which lies beneath the clifi" and descends to the sea, extends along the coast from Phoros to Demur Kapu, or the Iron Gate, widening as it rims eastward, and losiuq; its distinctive character com- pletely ere it reaches Aloushta, in consequence of the great wall of cliff 071 the left hand receding rapidly inland and northwards from the point opposite Yalta. The length of tliis strip is 30 miles. It is nearly a mile broad at Phoros, and thence it gradually expands, till at Aloupka, it attains a breadth of nearly three miles, and at Yalta it is five miles from the sea to the base of the cliff. The road winds for many miles along the foot of these stupenduous crags, but there is a lower road, reached by zig-zags, which leads to the villas situated in the lovely valleys by the coast. This strip of shelving land is of the most varied formation. It is tossed about into hill and dale, and is seamed with shady ravines and deep woody dells, which are water- courses in winter. As it is quite sheltered by the cliff from northerly winds, and is exposed to the full povrer of the sun, the climate here is beautifully mild until the heats of summer begin, and the land produces in great perfection an astonishing variety of vegetable productions. The Crimea has a Flora of its own, but the lady is dressed so quaintly, uses such strange language, and is called so many hard, long names, that in my ignorance I am afraid to approach her, or to do anything more than to praise her general effect and appear- ance at a distance. But here is indeed a horrid reality to talk about. Some half-mile from Phoros, the road runs through a solid rock by means of a tunnel about thirty yards long. I happened to be riding in advance, and to be the first who saw that this tunnel was blocked up by a wall of stones about seven feet in height and eight feet in thickness. All passage for the c^t seemed hopeless. We never could lift it up so high. There was no getting' round the rock, and so I smote my breast and returned to the party. But there were two or three among us not easily to be deterred from their purpose. An examination was made ; a council of war was held ; and it was decided that over the wall we must go, and that the obstacle intended to pre- vent the march of Cossack cavab-y and the carriage of mountain guns, was not to impede six British tourists. Under the direc- 448 PEACE ONCE MORE IN THE CKIMKA. tiou of our acting engineer to work we went. The party got on the wall and proceeded to dislodge the stones on both sides with regularity and precision, rolling them down so as to form a kind of solid arch out of the centre of the wall. Shins were cut, toes were sma.shed, spurs were Lent, but the work went on, and at the end of three-quarters of an hour the way was declared to be practicable. Tlie inulcs were taken out of the cart, and walked by a footpath round the rock ; the heavj- articles were unloaded, and then, with main strength, the cart, after a despe- rate struggle, was spoked up to the top of the mound of rocks and stones, and then, with immense difficulty, was backed down to the road on the other side, liaybc the old tunnel did not re-echo three tremendous cheers when the work was over, and the mules emerged with their triumphant chariot ! But our troubles are not half over. The French were uneasy at Phoros — they have scarped the road, and what they have spared, two winters of neglect have very nearly demolished. Before we moved six miles we executed, in addition to these labours, the following great public works, in order to get our cart over : — No. 1. Built a wall to bank up the road-side at a precipice ; No. 2. Filled up a crevice with brush-wood and loose stones ; No. 3. Made the road practicable with fascines ; No. 4. Cut away hill-side, so as to widen the road by the side of a precipice where it had given way ; No. 5. Unloading cart and spoking it over a bit, and loading it again. It is about twenty-two miles from the camp to the Phoros pass, and our halting place for the night is the ruined chateau of Isarkaia, which is about six miles from Phoros. We reached this secluded spot about seven o'clock in the evening. The walls and roof alone are left. The windows are smashed in, woodwork and all, and the only thing untouched in the place is a mangle in the kitchen. We stable our horses in the parlours and library, for all I know to the contrary, un- pack the cart, and carry in saddles and bedding to the room designed for dining and sleeping. There are no boarded rooms, but the clay floor is soft, a ibuntain and a stream of water run hard by. The horses are groomed and supplied with hay and corn, and we prepare for dinner. A horrid announcement is made — " TJie Major has ibrgot to bring either kettle, gridiron, or saucepan; the tea and the sugar have got mixed, but that is no consevjuence." What is to be done ? Ingenious engineer suggests iliat my tinned iron dish shall be used as a fryingpan ; carried iicm. con. As to saucepan, some ingenious person drives EFFECTS OF WAR, 449 two holes in a potted-beef tin case, thi'usts a piece of wood through them as handle, and proceeds to make soup therein over a bUizing fire liglited up in one of the ruined fireplaces of the drawing-room. Just as soup is ready, handle barns thi'ough and soup upsets into the fire — a disaster quite irretrievable, and so we proceed to devour tough ration beef done in steaks on the tin dish. Sherry is forthcoming, bread, and preserved vege- tables. Water is boiled in a small teapot, and produces enough for a temperate glass of grog ; the blankets are spread on the floor, and preparations are made for sleep. First, however, the watch is appointed. Each man takes an hour in the alphabetical order of his name, from eleven to five o'clock, to watch the horses, to keep in the fire, and to guard against theft. The mangle is broken up for firewood. In doing so, the best made London axe, bought from an eminent London saddler, flies in two at the first chop ! — useful article for travelling ! Odd legs of chairs and tables, bits of drawers and dressers and cupljoards, are piled up for the same purpose, and our first watch is left on his post. We muster three double-barrelled guns and four revolvers between us — a total of thkty shots; but the night passes over quietly. Sunday. Below the walls of the house in which we encamped, buried amid orchards and vineyards, is a ruined villa with marble foun- tains and handsome rooms. It is pillaged and wrecked like the rest, but it tempts most of our party to plunge down through the bi'ushwood and thick scrubby woods, interlaced with " Clirist's thorn" and long creepers, to the ledge on which it stands above the sea at a considerable elevation, notwithstanding that it is half an hour's steep descent to the ledge from the shore. The silence, broken only by the cry of the eagles which soar about the clifls, the surge of the wave on the rocks, and the voices of the birds in the groves, is rather a source of pain than of plea- sure. 3falheur a la devastation is inscribed on the walls. But who were the devastators ? ■ The Russians allege it was the allies — the Tartars declare it was the Russians themselves. There are many who believe that these very Tartars had no small share in the plundering and wrecking of their taskmasters' and con- querors' summer palaces. We know from experience that on the march to Sebastopol, every village, every little villa and farmhouse, was sacked and destroyed by the enemy, and Bour- liouk, Eskel Mamarhai, Belbek, &c., were in ruins before our YOL. II. G G 450 PEACE OXCE MORE IN THE CliniEA. outposts reached them. Tlic evidence so far is against the Eus- sians. As the walls and roofs of these houses are untouched, they look as picturesque and pretty from a distance as ever they did, and it is only on nearer approach that traces of the hand of the spoiler become visible. We had a very excellent breakfast, notwithstanding the extraordinary rich flavour of onions in the tea, which was accounted i'or by the circumstance that the water had been boiled in the soup-kettle. Some officers of the Guards who had followed us, and bivouacked near the post-house which we had passed on the road, came in as we were at " our humble meal," and relished their share of it exceedingly. Their cart pushed on in advance of ours, and as they profited by our labours of ycsterdaj'', so did we in a smaller degree (our cart was larger than theirs) reap the advantage of their preceding us part of the way to-day. We started about eleven o'clock, and our hai-d work soon commenced. Between the enemy, the French, and the winter, the road scarcely existed ; it had been swept down into the ravine. However, our motto was vestigia nulla retrorsum, and the colonel, the major, the captain, the D.A.C.G., the civilians, and the soldiers, worked as if for their lives, and succeeded in the course of the day in executing the following useful public works : — No. 1. Eoad blocked up by rocks fi'om mountain, cut down trees, made levers, and cleared the Avay; major's leg nearly broken, every one dirtied with wheel grease, linger nails broken, hands cut, &c. No. 2. Koad repaired by Guards, who left us a bit of paper on a stick to commemorate the fact — was found too narrow, the hill-side dug out, stones laid, and road extended. No. 3. Landsliji — edge of the road gone, built up a wall of stones to support the edge, and passed over triumphantly. No. 4 Were riding along at a smart pace doAvm the road, which winds like a piece of tape (not red, but white) along the mountain side, when frantic cries from the next turn recalled us to our cart; found it had gone down over a gulley, shooting out beds and bundles some hundreds of feet below, and was lying right over in the mud of the aforesaid gulley atop of the wheel mule. No one hurt. Took off wheels, cut fastenings, and unharnessed mule, which escaped without a hurt, but Avas covered with mud ; raised cart, carried up beds, &c., out of ravine ; unpacked cart and carried baggage across bad parts of landslip ; set cart on wheels, loaded it, and went on our way rejoicing. Just after this accident we met General Eyre and his staff, attended by a Russian officer and several USEFUL PUBLIC WOKKS. 451 Cossacks, on liis way to Phoros. The gallant General had been round to Bakshiserai, Simpheropol, and Aloushta, and Avas just reversing our route which our party had the honour of being the first to drag a cart over. The General had been assisted up to this point by a village full of Tartars, who were caught by the Eussians, to get his cart over the bad places. No. 5. Came upon the Guards and their servants, Avho were busy mending the road where it was cut by a mountain watercourse : aided them and ourselves ; got over our cart first and preceded them on the road. No. 6. Cut fascines and filled in a gap in the road. Let it be understood, all this time, that there is the sea below us on the right, the quaint wall of clifi's, 000ft. or 700ft. high, on our left, and at times, as it were, topplmg over on our heads, and a rugged slope of wood and vineyard dotted with viUas between us and the beach. No. 7. Having come up to a party of Guardsmen who were bivouacking with .some artillerjmien on their way back to Baidar, we were told that the road was utterly impassable ; it had been carried away by a landslip. Eesolved to go on ; repaired road soon after- wards, and proceeded cautiously through mud from the ice rills which had bored through and broken up the path in many places. It was becoming late, and yet v/e had not got more than eight or nine miles from Asarkaia, and Aloupka, for which we were bound, was still as many miles ahead of us. The clifi" at this part of the coast, which is somewhere between Kikineis and Liraena, recedes further from the sea, and there is a con- siderable tract of hills from its base to the road. These hills are covered with brushwood, and our vidette in front reported to us that two round knobs, which, no doubt, served as heads to as many Cossacks, were visible in advance, amid the young foliage. As we approached, the knobs disappeared, but presently two lance points peered above the rocks at the turn of the road, and in another moment or two we were in the presence of three mounted Cossacks of the Don, who by signs demanded our passes in a very civil and agreeable manner. As none of them could read, this formality seemed useless, but they gave us to understand by signs that one of our party must go to the officer of the post, and the Major and his interpreter were accordingly handed over to the care of an individual with one eye, and were out of sight very speedily. Our cart was ordered back, and it was explained that we had to drag it over the slope of the hills on om- left, as the road before us actually had gone over the G G 2 A52 PEACE OXCE MORE IN THE CllI.MEA. cliffs. Our friends were intelligent, good-looking young fellows, and while waiting for the ]\Iajor avc spent some time rather agreeably witli them in a mvitual examination of arms and interchange of tobacco. They wore heavj' curved swords, with- out guards to the handles, in large sheaths of wood covered with leather. Their heads were covered with sheepskin caps, the top being formed of red cloth, and slightly conical in shape. Their coats were like those of the infantry of the line — long garments of gray cloth, fastened by a strap at the back, and their trousers were tucked into their boots, mo7'e 3IuscovUortim. Each man had a long carbine slung over his shoulder, and I Avas rather surprised to observe that they had percussion locks. This armament was completed by a long and ver^' light lance. The edges of their swords were as sharp as razors — their lance points were equally keen. Their hair was closely cut, and they had the whiskerless cheek, the beardless chin, and the musta- chioed lip of the " regulation." Their horses were barely four- teen hands high, and were high in the bone and low in the flesh, but their speed and endurance are undeniable. The Cossack rides high above his horse — he sits in the hollow of a saddle which looks like tAvo pillars of black leather, at such a height that his heels are against the horse's flank, and when the animal trots, his rider's head is thrown forward over the shoulder, so that a right line let fall from bis head v.-ould be in advance of his toes hy some inches. The manes of the Cossack horses are very long, and their tails often sweep the ground. We soon found they were very quick walkers, and got over the ground with rapidity and ease. As the Major did not return, we con- cluded, after a long stay, that he was on the road before us, and we resolved to urge the cart over the hill. The Cossacks helped us in this (which was no easy matter) as soon as their comrade came back with an intimation, as we understood, which would be interpreted in English that " it was all right." The cart was once more unloaded, and its contents were dragged by lis across the steep hill ; then the cart was spoked up over the spongy ground, was loaded again, and the drivers were con- ducted to the road by the Cossacks, while we were shown a shorter cut, and descended iinder escort of our amiable, but strongly-scented friends, down through shady ravines to the Tartar villiigc of Slmeis. Simeis, like all Tartar villages, is built by the side of a brook, which brawls pleasantly through a succession of little cascades as it leaps down from the mountains A RUSSIAN COLONEL. 453 to the sea. The ravine in which the village is situate is shaded fi'oni the sun by enormous walnut and chestnut trees, and b}^ the humbler branches of pear, apple, and peach trees. The houses are built on the slope in layers, with broad flat roofs, which are rendered watertight by a thick covering of sand and bitumen, and on looking down on it, or on any of the Tartar villages, not a house is visible ; all that can be seen is a succession of little brown square patches with one hole in each, descending the slope in regular terraces, the backs being formed by the hill-side itself. In Simeis we were halted till the curiosity of a strong Cossack picket and some regulars was satisfied. About sixty men passed us in review, and then we were let to climb the hill up to tlie road, at which we found another Cossack waiting to relieve our silent friend who had so far accompanied us. It was getting dark ; there was no sign of the Major ; but, for a wonder, one of the Cossacks spoke German, and he told us an Eng- lish officer was on in front. In a few moments our guide began to ride down a steep zigzag road towards the sea. The cart had come up all right, and we found we were on oiu" way down to Aloupka, which is close to the sea shore. The zigzag was as steep and sharp in its turns as any Swiss mountain path, and the horses, already tired by the nature of the day's journey, showed signs of distress very visibly. The descent lasted for an hour ; it seemed a night ; the young moon just lighted up the Cossack's white horse and the i'eathery tips of tall poplars and branches of gray olive trees, and all else was in darkness. We heard the roar of the sea close at hand at last, and a low white building peered above the trees. We cantered into the open space before it by a nice avenue, with a regular paling on each side. The Cossack dismounted, fastened xip his horse, and went into the house, leaving us in profound ignorance and great hunger outside. The sounds of very noisy and drunken singing, which roused the night owls through the windows, led us to believe the house was a Cossack barrack, but at the same time the door opened, and out came a brisk little man, who spoke good French, and a decent body, his wife, who astonished us with excellent English, and we found that we were at the hotel at Aloupka. The cause of the noise was sooir found. It was the work of a drunken Russian Colonel, chief of the police at Yalta, who had introduced himself to some English officers at that place, and had, in spite of them, accompanied them so far on their way to Phoros. " J'oila," said a little ioi: PEACE OXCE MORE IN THE CRIMEA, voice in our ears, as the door of the dining-room was opened, — " Voila la noblesse Susse — // est nohle parceqii'il est Colonel." The room in which we found ourselves was a comfortable apart- ment, with sofas and easy chairs, engravings of Count Potocki, of the Czar (of course), of Prince Woronzoff, of very warm subjects from French burins, on the walls, and a table well covered with bottles and glasses. At the end of the table was seated a Russian officer, screaming at the top of his voice some inscrutable snatches of song, for which he prepared himself by copious doses of brandy, sherry, and Crim wine. He was offensively drunk, but the terror which he inspired in the land- lord and landlady was not the less on that account, and was evidently only equalled by their hatred of him. We are told that the Eussians read the London papers so diligently that they know everything that passes as well as we do ourselves. I do not wish to get our good host and his wife, or even the inebri- ated Muscovite, into a scrape, or I would relate a few particulars respecting their demeanour which might prove amusing. The Colonel of the Aloupka district, when he heard of the condition of his brother " authority," gave orders that he should be turned out, but these were not carried into effect till late in the evening. He spoke a little French, and I think he understood English, though he professed not to know a word. Our dinner consisted of salt meat and an omelette au lard, washed down with plenty of Crim wine. We had also a tin of preserved beef. It was very fat, and we all put away the excess of adipose matter on a plate, where it formed a pretty large pile. The Colonel, who had been eating the meat, suddenly seized upon this plate, and stuffed huge mouthfids of. the fat and grease downs his throat on the point of a knife with infinite gusto. A Cossack brought us in our passes. In spite of his standing at attention, the man's look betrayed a feeling of greater disgust at the Colonel's condition than I should have given him credit for. Our horses, which were put in a distant stable, could only be fed by the intervention of some others of our Dons, who also undertook to guard them all night, — "the Greeks were such robbers." Our beds were clean and comfortable, and we slept well till morning, although the Colonel kicked up at intervals a dread- ful row outside. The Guardsmen arrived about an hour after us, and assisted us in entertaining the Colonel. Monday. Distance lends enchantment to the view of Prince Woronzoff's PRINCE WORONZOFF's PALACE. 455 palace from the sea. Hence it seems a splendid combination of Tartar and Norman architecture, donjons and keeps, and battle- mented wallS) strangely intermingling with minarets and the dome of a mosque. It is quite close to our hotel, and is ap- proached by a beautiful walk, like the back lodge avenue in an English estate. The path is marked by a wooden palmg, inside which are olives and fruit trees, and evergreens, and immense chestnut and walnut trees and silvery poplars. We pass a quiet chateau with a verandah and terraced front. It was the Prince's residence before he built his palace, and it is now used as a- summer retreat by his son. The furniture is simple and hand- some, and there is a beautiful view from the windows. A Eus- sjan servant (the only one wo saw about the place) readily showed us over the premises. What we saw there, at the Empress's palace of Orianda, at Yalta, Aloushta, Simpheropol, and Bakshiserai, I must reserve for another letter, as this has, I fear, exceeded all tolerable limits. I have since then revisited, the Alma, which exhibits more traces of fight than the valley of Likermann, the plain of Balaklava, or the banks of the Tchernaj'a. Friday. Of all the painful and pitiable sights which have been pre- sented to me in the com'se of the war which is past, there was not one so affecting as that of the Tartar Exodus and their flight out of the Crimea. Whether they are animated, as they say, by the dread of their Russian taskmasters, or by their desire to im- prove their condition, the motive must be powerful which can drive a whole race from their homes. They leave those peace- ful and beautiful valleys for ever, and flock into Balaklava with all their goods, in the hope of obtaining the means of escape. On Thursday the whole population in the valleys outside th Russian lines began their mournful procession. They left their homes silently. The old men, women, and childi'en were placed on the arabas, above the pile of cushions which seem to consti- tute all their household furniture. Many of them cried bitterly. Several of these poor pilgrims were so exhausted from illness or old age that there was little chance of their ever seeing the land they seek to gain. Each araba was drawn by two small bullocks or oxen, led by the head of the family ; the elder children kept by his side or followed on foot. The women, closely veiled, in spite of then- grief, looked around with wonder at the marvels which Balaklava presented, and. were for a time beguiled from 4.'>6 PEACE ONCE MORE IX THE CRIMEA. thoughts of their abantloncd dwelliiiijs in Biouk, Miskomiji, Varnutka, J^aidar, Upu, Ozembash, or Tchuliu ; but as the sea opened upon them, and they found themselves among strangers, the sense of their position came back to them with redoubled force, and they seemed lost in despair. The procession which I saw was aboxit a mile in length, and was Ibrmed of arabas in single file, as close to each other as they could pack. The head of the train was drawn up by the water's edge in the harbour, and the extremity extended far bej'ond the limits of the town. I am informed that there was a large encampment of the same poor creatures near Kamara last night, and that they would make their way into Balaklava as soon as their predecessors had cleared away. I also saw several families who had taken refuge in the camp of the head-quarters of the Land Transport Corps last night. As there were no houses for their reception, men, women, and children slept in the streets of Balaklava under their arabas. In the morning they found that the Turkish Colonel who superintended the emigration, and who was evidently unprepai'ed for its magnitude, had only one small vessel ready for them ; but he succeeded in hiring two small Turkish sailing vessels in addition. The women and children were sent on board till these ships were full, and then the Turkish and Tai'tar authorities applied to Admiral Fremantle, but he had received no previous intimation, and could do nothing at the moment. However, he wrote to Sir W. Codrington on the subject, and, as he is a humane man, he will no doubt do all he can to assist these Tartars. When I left Balaklava yesterday there wa-s every prospect of their spending another night in the streets and on the hill sides, nor did their stock of provisions appear very ample. Hitherto, the French have given rations, such as they could spare, to a certain number of Tartars in the valley of Baidar, in return for their services as wood carriers and arabajees. They are a docile, kind-hearted, gentle race, and are much superior in appearance to the Tartars I saw at Kertch and Eupatoria. They have all fine teeth and eyes. Many of the men are very well-looking, and the old men are exceedingly dignified in aspect, and possess great native ease and good breed- ing. The young women possess graceful forms, and are believed to be very pretty, but they are not often seen unveiled, and the old women do not display the least traces of beauty. I have never seen anywhere children more lively and handsome in face than some who were among the emigi-ants yesterday. As I was THE TATITAR EXODUS. 4.57 riding through the street some Russian othcers passed, and gave signs of dissatisfaction at the proceedings of the Tartars. The latter were very abject in their bows as their masters passed them. And this is the end of one of the conquering races of the world ! Whether the Tartars deserved their fate, or have been treated badly by fortune, one cannot but feel pity for them, if they are punished for the crimes of their ancestors. They came into the Crimea as conquerors, and they leave it as exiles. It is said that they are going to colonize the Dobrudscha, or to settle at Rustchuk and Kostendje. The first-named place is but a pestiferous marais ; it is a grave to those who visit it, and I sincerely trust that these poor Tartars, in whom we ought to take a great interest, for we have brought upon them this aggravation of the e\'ils of their position, will not be doomed to such misery and certain death as they will tind in the Dobrudscha. The number of families ready to emigrate is stated to be 1500. They declare that all the Tartars in the Crimea would follow their example if they could, and it is worthy the attention of the allied governments to inquire whether facilities should not be offered to save these unfortunate people from the fate which impends over them. The Tartars declare the Russians hate them on account of their sympathies with the allies, and that they will exact a terrible revenge when we are gone. The Tartars still rejoice over the Alma ; they rub their hands with delight at the very name, but it has been to them an unhappy victory. May 8. The evacuation of the Crimea is taking place with rapidity, and, if it is desirable, there can be no doubt that the allies can leave the soil of the Czar long before the time which has been granted to us — six montlis after the conclusion of the treaty — has expired. The Tartars bring in terrible stories of the revenge taken by the Russians on those unfortunate brethren of theirs who have given aid to the allies, or have been engaged in their service. They tell us that several of these poor creatures have been hanged at Simpheropol, that others have been sent off in exile, and that more are condemned to work on the roads for life. Could not a word be said to avert the -wi-ath of Russia, and to induce her to extend her clemency to the remnants of this miserable race ? During the recent exciu'sion of General Windham, in the Banshee, to Kertch and back, an incident took place which 458 PEACE ONCE MORE IN THE C1U5IEA. sliows very clearlj'- the real character of the Russian Govern- ment, and demonstrates the worthlessneas of the professions whicli it makes. Prince (lag'arin, who holds a command on the south coast, was exti-emely polite in all his communications with. Major-General Cunynghame and the other English officers at Kei-tch and Yenikale, and promised them every facility should they be desirous of visiting the interior, or proceeding to Sebastopol by land. He also specially invited all English officers to visit him at Kaffa (Theodosia) in their way. General Windham, being informed of these little politenesses, resolved to pay a visit to Kaffii on his way back from Kertch. On entering the bay on which the town is situated, they were astonished to perceive a fleet of many sail of merchant vessels lying in quarantine, and they soon were made to understand that the Banshee was in a similar disagreeable situation. Most of these ships had gone up the Sea of Azoff to Tagam-og, and had been sent back again all the way to Xaffii to perform quarantine. The usual quarantine station for the ports in the Sea of Azoff is Kertch, but, as that place is in the hands of the allies, and as the Government establishment is destroyed, the Eussian authorities have for the present selected Kaffa as a sub- • stitute, and vessels bound from the south and east will have a considerable detour to make from the true course, but that is better than being sent back altogether. This is a valuable com- mentary on the statements which have been made that the Czar has given orders to the Minister of the Interior, &c., to remove all resti'ictions on trade — exports and imports. When General Windham and staff were permitted to land they were placed in a small room with bars to the windows like a wild beast cage — a regular quarantine prison in fact ; and when he had prepared a note for Prince Gagarin it was taken fi-om him through the bars by a pair of tongs. The Prince, all gold lace and feathers, soon made his appearance, and received his visitor with great cordiality and politeness thi'ough the bai's. He regretted that his orders were so strict ; he dared not permit the General to ^^sit the tovm without performing quarantine, but if he came round by land he should be most happy to receive liim. Mean- time he had sent off a letter to the General Commanding-in- Chief, and an answer was speedily returned to the effect that the General's orders from the Ministers were so exceedingly stringent that he could not relax them, notwithstanding his most earnest wishes to do so. Genei-al Windham in the course of MEMORIAL OF THE ALMA. 450 his interview tliought it necessary to apprize Prince Gagarin that he had seen enough to convince him it would bo riglit to advise the Commander-in-Chief to keep possession of Kertch till all our stores were \\athdrawn — an intimation which seemed not a little to perplex and confound his Excellency. It appears that General Liiders had expressed a \vish that, in the interest of trade, Kertch should be evacuated as speedily as possible, and that steps were being taken to remove the Turkish troops, whose presence was especially objectionable ; but, as General Windham observed, if the port were handed over to the Russian authorities before all the stores were removed, the vessels which were sent for them would be placed in quarantine, and great an- noyance and delay would be experienced. Our excursions into the Crimea are becoming rarer as curiosity becomes satisfied, and leave more difficult to be obtained for lengthened absence. General Codrington has paid a visit to the Alma, and most of us who could go have performed a pilgrimage to the same place. The graves are scrupulously respected, and ai-e marked with large stones. The inscription on the stone telegraph tower cut by the French, "La Bataille d'Aima, 20 Septembre, 1854," has been altered to " 8th September " by the Russians, to reconcile the date to their old style. The Russians are returning our visits now, and some unfortunate officers who, in the height of goodfellowship and amid flowing bumpers, gave their name and an invitation to their boon companions to " come and stop a week with me, and bring your friends and family," have been horrified by the vision of a couple of droskies at their tent doors, containing a whole bevy of fair Muscovites and their attendant lieges. Major Montague, of the Engineers, is enter- taining at his pretty hut on Kamara-hill, a number of Russian ladies who were kind and attentive to him when he was a prisoner in Simpheropol, and is fortunate in being able to evince his sense of their humanity and good nature. Lieutenant-General Lord Rokeby, commanding the First Division, and Lieutenant-General Barnard, commanding the Second Division, are to be made Knights Commander of the Bath, and the latter will go to Corfu as soon as his division shall have been broken up. Lord Rokeby came out to take the com- mand of the Guards in the winter of 1854-55. His Lordship had not the good fortune to he present at either Alma, Inker- mann, or in the attacks on the Redan. General Barnard, also a Guardsman, was an efficient and active chief of the staff under •iGO TEACE OXCE MORE IN THE CRIMEA. General Simpson up to the date of General Windham's appoint- ment, hut he came out after the two great Crimean hattles had been fought, and he was not personally engaged in either of our assaults on the Russian lines. It is believed that ]\Iajor-Cieneral Garrett will be made K.C.I>., at the same time (Jeneral Sir Colin Campbell will .shortly return home, and the officers of the Highland Division, b}' whom he is greatly beloved, intend to give the gallant general a farewell banquet on Saturday next, for admission to which there is eager competition. The position in which this meritorious, brave, and energetic officer has been placed since he came out here could not but be trying to a man of his active habits and of his ardent love of service. He came out at the request of his Sovereign to serve under an officer greatly his junior in the service and with no comparative merits at all as to experience in the field or with the enemy, and he has had no opportunity whatever of exercising command, but has been as inactive as Achilles — eating his heai't in his tent — although the comparison ceases with his isolation — for Colonel Sterling would scarcely pass muster as a Briseis notwith- standing the charms of his conversation and the variety of his- acquireinents. Every one wishes the gallant General well, and the army feels that Sir Colin Campbell will not fail to justify the judgment which may select him for any post where the more valuable qualities of a soldier, such as decision, promptitude of execution, self-devotion, braverj', and personal activity are re- quired. He has gained the esteem of our allies ; but it is felt that in council he would have been the last man to yield to claims of the reasonableness of which he was not perfectly con- vinced, and that he is jealous of the honour and reputation of the British army. May 21. Lieutenant-Colonel James, E.E. ; Lieutenant-Colonel Stanton, E.E.; and Captain Gordon, R.E., have started for Bessarabia, t-o survey the line of the new boundary between Ilussia and Moldavia, and to aid the commission with their professional advice and experience. Captain Hammcrsley, Deputy-Assistant- Quartermaster-General, Hcad-C^uarters Staff, and Captain Jjrook, Assistant-Quartcrmaster-General, Fourth Division, two active and intelligent officers, have been selected to proceed to Perckop, and to examine the roads, the bridges across the Sivash at Tchongar and elsewhere, and the country around- Genitchi, Arabat, and Kafla, in order, I suppose, to satisfy the authorities KOADS, BRIDGES, ETC. 4G1 that if they had made a forward movement they would have succeeded in forcing the Eussians to iight a pitched battle or to retreat. The staff olKcers of the Eustfian army are busily en- gaged in surveying our camp, and the Commander-in-Chief of the English army has ordered that every facility shall be afforded them. They have closely examined the construction of the railway, and have studied the plans and sections deposited in Sir. Campbell's office at Ealaklava. The questions they asked respecting rails, sleepers, &c., indicated a limited acquaintance with the elements of railwaj- engineering. Dr. Mouatt and another medical officer have returned from a tour in the Crinaea, during which they have minutely inspected the Eussian military hospitals, with a view to prepare a report upon their medical system. That the Eussians will profit by what they see, no one who witnesses their avidity for information and desire of improvement can possibly doubt. They are deeply persuaded of the necessity which exists for making good roads ; but I fear they look upon that necessity as one arising rather out of military and political than peaceful and commercial con- siderations. " None of us ever dream.ed of the Crimea being made the scene of a great campaign, or we should have had good roads, and, possibly, a railroad to Sebastopol." That is their constant remark. The strangest, but the most universally asserted and best attested fact we have learned from our late enemies is this — that had the fire continued, they would have blown up their works and evacuated the south side of the town on the 10th, or at furthest on the 12th of September — that is, either two or four days after the assault. The fire Avas too tremendous and all-searching to be withstood. The officer of one regiment, which garrisoned the Malakhoft'from the evening of the 6th till the evening of the 7th, said they marched in 3400 men, with 70 officers, and when they were relieved, 2800 men and 51 officers had been killed or wounded by shell and shot. Sometimes a shell rolled down into a bomb-proof and blew up among the dense mass of men inside. Sometimes a round shot, striking one of the massive beams of wood which supported the works, sent a shower of deadly splinters all round it, and the service of the guns was attended with the certainty that almost every gunner would be hit by the French riflemen in the course of the day. The Eussians concm* in saying that they lost more than 2000 men every day of the fire. But then, if they had waited till the 10th, and no assaiilt had been made. 463 PEACE OXCE MORE IN THE CrJMEA. what would have occurred ? The lire must have slackened on the 9th, for the allies had not the means of continuing it. The Bussians, most likely, more sua, would have plucked up heart of grace, set to work, and been ready for another bombardment, which could not possibly have talcen place for two months. But then winter would have been upon us, and — however, there i.s BO use in supposing. Before Sebastopol, May 24. The Biutish army is on the move. The Third Division has been broken up, and the Mediterranean stations will soon be filled with regular troops. Even Gozo is threatened with military occupation. This Aveek the 30th Eegiinent, 55th Ecgiment, 92nd Eegiment, 89th Regiment, and 2Sth Regiment, have embarked for their destinations, and Mercer's Battery, together with other portions of the artillery, have been embarked and des])atched from Balaklava. The " Great Britain" received two regiments, the 30t.h and 55th. The others are embarked in large steamers, such as the " Queen of the South," the *' Indiana," the " Sarah Sands," and " Perseverance." The weather has been very windy and very foggy throughout the early part of the week. It still blows briskly ii-om the southward. The temperature has been exceedingly low for the time of the year, and the troops are healthy, notwithstanding the appearance of a few cases of ophthalmia among them. The departure of General della Marmora and the Sardinian Staff on Monday was marked by every demonstration of the regard and esteem in which they are held b}^ our army. The ships in harbour hoisted the Sardinian flag, the yards of the *' Leander" were manned, and the General set his foot on the deck of the vessel, to which we wished a speedy and prosperous voyage, amid enthusiastic cheers and three rounds of English hui'rahs. The Crimean medals and ribands intended for the Sardinian troops were placed in the hands of General della Marmora some time ago; but he sent them to Turin, judging that the decorations would be most fitly conferred on the troops in the presence, and possibly by the hands of their gallant Sovereign. The good feeling wliich existed between the Sar- dinians and their allies was never marred for one moment by any untoward jealousies or circumstances of rivalry, and more especially were they ever on terms of friendship with the English, although their knowledge of Fi'ench gave them greater facilities for coummuicatin-j: with our allies than are DEPARTURE OF THE SARDINIANS. 4G3 possessed by our men. Their position at Fedukhino brought them into constant contact with the French and HighUmders, and they have left behind them many kindly remembrances, not readily to be forgotten. In all my rambles I have rarely, if ever, seen a drunken Sardinian ; their behaviour in camp, in the canteens, at Kadikoi, imd on the roads was exemplary, and T understand, that in the absence of crime, social or military, they claim to rank with the best disciplined army in the world. On the occasion of his Excellency's departure, the English Commander-in-Chief issued the following General After- Order : — " IIead-Quakteus, Sebastopol, May 17th, 185G. "No. 1. The greater part of the Sardinian army has quitted the Crimea, and General della Marmora himself will soon embark. "A guard of honour, with artillery, will be held in readiness for the :departure of the Sardinian Commander-in-Chief " The Commander of the Forces trusts that General della Slarmora will himself receive, and convey to those whom he has commanded in the Crimea, the good wishes of the English army for their future prosperity. " With steadiness, with discipline, with resource, the Sardinian army has long maintained and eiliciently guarded the advanced position entrusted to it ; and ii; bore its honourable share with the troops of France in the battle of the Tchernaya. " In our intercourse there has been neither difficulty nor difference, and this good feeling between all the armies of tlie alliance has had a very important influence in determining the peace of Europe. " By order, C. A. Windiiaji, Chief of the Staff." The attempts to repair the Russian cemeteries have been tolerably successful, and our labour's on those where our own dead lie are nearly brought to a close. As we are about to part for ever, our anxiety to learn more of our late foes in- creases. The Russians survey our camps, we visit their hospitals, study their commissariat, inquire into their military system, and inspect their positions ; our engineers, also, minutely examine the siege-works of our allies, with which they were necessarily but slightly acquainted during the progress of the attack. Our approaches to the defences of the place afforded no oppor- tunity to our engineers of developing the use of mines against the enemy, and were not assailable by the same agency on their side for the same reason, as it is obvious that where mines can be used by the attacking force they can also be adopted by the defenders. The French had not the same sort of ground, and the system of French mines in front of the Bastion du Mat pre- sents the most astonishing instance of labour and skill ever wit- 4G4 PEACE ONCE MORE IN THE CRIMEA. nessed in any siege. To the Eussians, however, belongs the credit of the most imijortant and extensive operations of this nature. Oar engineers have in their possession plans of both the French and Kussian mines and galleries, and tlie tracings resemble a section of a honeycomb. The enemy's mines con- sisted of two series of shafts or galleries and magazines, the first beino- twenty-seven feet below the surface, the second being no less than forty feet below the first. The workmen were sup- plied with air by means of force pumps, and in one magazine at the end of one of these galleries there was found no less than 85001b. of powder, all tamped in and ready for firing by electric wires. This magazine would have formed an ctonnoir far in the rear of the French advance, and its probable effects may be estimated when it is considered that the destruction of the docks was eflected by a smaller quantity of gunpowder than was contained in this one mine. Many of the shafts spring out of the counterscarp, and there are numerous chambers cut into the same portion of the ditch of the bastion, which were used as bombproofs by a portion of the garrison. It has also been dis- covered that the Russians had cut a subterranean gallery from inside the parapet, under the ditch, to an advanced Work which they used as a place d'armes in making a sortie, and hitherto it had puzzled the French to understand how the men used to collect in this work without being seen. The eff"ect produced by the French mines in their saps can only be conceived by those who have looked down into the yawning craters of the etonnoirs, after stumbling over the wild chaos of rocks cast up all round by the explosion, just as though the Titans and the Gods had met there in deadly combat. Some of these gulfs resemble the pits of volcanoes. The Russians only intended to fire some of these mines in case of an assault on the Bastion being repulsed under circumstances which gave them a chance of occupying the enemy's advanced saps ; others would have been fired only in case of a retreat from the city, in order to destroy as many of the enemy as possible, and to check pursuit ; and the explosion was intended to destroy not only the French parallels, but the works of the Bastion itself, so as to prevent the French turning the guns. There were two or three mines inside the Redan, and there Avere some extensive galleries and mines in front of the Malakhoff", but it was at the Bastion du Mat, or Flagstaff Battery, that the French and Russians put forth their strength in mine and counter-mine. The galleries are pushed for fiftj' OUR GRAVES IN THE CRIMEA. 4G5 yards through the .solid rock in several instances. These labours are of the most stupendous character, and must have proved very exhaustiu": to the garrison. CHAPTER XLVII. OUE GRAVES IN THE CRIMEA AND THE ALMA REVISITED. Memorials of the brave — Tour of inspection in the Crime.a — DifBcuIties of the Ru.-sian position — A farcAvel! — Two visits to the Alma — The route — Anecdotes of the battle — Dr. Thompson's heroism — Kecollectioiis. June 30. The British army, relieved from the pressure of military duties, and warned of their approaching departure, laboured, regiment by regiment, for many long weeks, to erect memorials to the comrades whose remains will be left behind him by the last Englishman who quits this soil ; and the works of this nature, which their hasty embarcation did not permit them to com- plete, have been undertaken by the few skilled soldier-labourers now belonging to the fragments of the army. The Chersonese is covered with isolated graves, with longer burial-grounds, and detached cemeteries from Balaklava to the verge of the roadstead of Sebastopol. Eavine and plain — hill and hollow — the road- side and secluded valley — for miles around, from the sea to the Tchernaya, present those stark-white stones, singly or in groups, stuck upright in the arid soil, or just peering over the rank vegetation which springs from beneath them. I have already described Cathcart's-hill Cemetery. The burial- grounds of the Light and Second Divisions have since attained such dimensions that it would be impossible in a newspaper article to give even an idea of their position, and of the monuments they contain. Without pretending to oifer a guide-book, or to notice the many sad memorials of our losses and sufferings in the Crimea, a brief supplementary notice of some of the principal burial-grounds may not be uninteresting. The French have taken but little pains with their graves. One large cemetery has been formed with great care and good taste near the old Inkermann camp, but in general our allies have not enclosed their burial places. The Sardinians have erected a pedestal and obelisk of stone on the heights of Balaklava, close VOL. II. H H AGO OUR GRAVES IN THE CIUMEA. to their hospital, to the memory of their departed comrades, and Ave have erected similar monuments on the heights of Inl