UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, SAN DIEGO 3 1822 01527 5472 :Rsi-n OP- t DIEGO NO. /iS eC^a a This Volume to be returned within two weeks. For every succeeding weel< that it shall be retained, the holder will be charged six cents. M UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, SAN DIEGO 3 1822 527 5472 754- n 3 MEMOIR OP EICHARD WILLIAMS ^-^<reakAYater of these dangerous chan- nels. The " moored kelp " warns the mariner of a sunken rock, and if in stormy weather his little vessel can only get to leeward of its floating acres, he may set the wildest sea at defiance.* In this way has Providence not only supplied the means of safety in the very midst of danger, but, by the same arrangement, he has prepared a source of sub- sistence for this land of famine. These gigantic sea- weeds are the home and the pasture-field of count- less mollusks and crustaceans. The leaves are crowded with shell-fish. The stems are so encrust- ed with corallines, as to be of a white colour. And '•' on shaking the great entangled roots", a pile of small fish, shells, cuttle-fish, crabs of all orders, sea-eggs, star-fish, and crawling nereidous animals of a multitude of forms, all fall out together." f To such a well-stored larder it is not wonderful that shoals of fishes should resort, foi-saking for it brio-htcr but less bountiful Avaters ; and in the wake of these fishes come armies of seals and * For beautifal figures and many interesting particulars regarding tliese and the other Algic of Fuegia, tiic i-eader is referred to I>r ILioker's isiaguiticcnt work, the " Flora Antarctica." t Darwin. 108 FUEGIA. clouds of sea-fowl. Among the latter are shags, petrels, ducks, red-bills, sea-pigeons, geese, steamer- ducks, and penguins. Of these many species have their breeding-places on the cliffs of the desolate islands. With their black coats and yellow waist- coats, the substantial and yeoman-like penguins take up their abode on the grassy fiats ; and in the month of January, that is to say, at their mid-summer, a braying quack may constantly be heard from morning to evening, inviting to dainty morsels their fat and solemn fledglings, — a dinner-bell which is never silent in the populous " penguinery." Not improbably with sinister designs on the infant penguins, the sea-lion is fond of a Avalk among the tufts of tussac, and, along with the sea-otter and the porpoise, this tyrant of the Southern Ocean is the great terror of the larger fishes. Predaceous as are the habits of so many of these creatures, it is interesting to contemplate the skill and profusion with which a sea so unpromising is peopled. All are ultimately dependent on a seemingly worthless sea-weed. That fucus cherishes the worms and polypes, the crabs and corallines, which feed the fishes ; and these, in their turn, sustain legions of cormorants and penguins, of seals and porpoises, as well as the less dexterous human fishery on the shore ; so that Mr Darwin is probably correct in his surmise, that the felling of a tropical forest would not be so f;ital to animal existence as the destruction of this gigantic " kelp." " Lord, FUEGIA. 109 how manifold are thy works ! in wisdom hast thou made them all : the earth is full of thy riches. So is this great and wide sea, wherein are things creeping innumerable, both small and great beasts. These wait all upon thee ; that thou may est give them their meat m due season. That thou givest them they gather : thou openest thine hand, they are filled with good." The inhabitants of the Fuegian Archipelago have sometimes been called Pesherais, from a word which some of them are constantly using. In the classification of the Human Families they have been named " the Ichthyophagi," or Fish-eaters of Tierra del Fuego.* Of course they are South American Indians, and they belong to the Arau- canian division of the great Andian race. They are not only the nearest neighbours, but are un- doubtedly of the closest kindred, to the Patagonian inhabitants of the adjacent continent ; but they are intellectually and physically inferior to these stately specimens of mankind. Many of them have trunks proportionate to a six-foot stature : but their indolent squatting existence has dwarfed their extremities. Their colour is something be- tween dark copper and brown. Captain FitzRoy compares it to " very old mahogany." j But owing to the wood-smoke with which they are * See Pricliard's Natural History of Man, Second Edition, p. 450 ; and Prichard's History of Mankind, vol. v. t. Yiya.c<^s of tho Arlv.^Titnre ni^d T?.'^n£;lp, vol. ii. p. 137. 110 PUEGIA. saturated, the oil and blubber with which they are smeared, and the earths, white, red, and black, with which they are painted, it is difficult to ascer- tain exactly a Fuegian complexion. Like their bodies, their heads are large. These heads are oblate spheroids, with long jet hair hanging straight down on either side, but cropped away over the brow. The forehead is very low, but, like the face, it is broad. The black eyes are oval, drawn to- wards the temples, and have usually an expression of simple good-humour. The nose is not handsome : flat and thick, with large nostrils, it is concave in profile ; and it is well supported by a mouth of great width, which closes in a straight line, and opens in an ample ellipse. The beaux of the antipodes do not fancy long beards, and what little hair shews itself on the chin or the eye-brows is usually extracted with tweezers made of two mussehshells. As already mentioned, from constantly crouching in their huts and canoes, their legs are crooked and stunted ; but still, they are by no means deficient in agility, and, in trials of strength, some of them were more than a match for an English sailor.* Their clothing is scanty. By the same provi- dential arrangement which coats the whale in frozen seas with oil, the Fuegian is fortified * For a minute description see a paper by Mr Wilson in the appendix to the 2d vol. of tlie " Voyages of the Adventure and Beagle." Portraits of Fuegians may be seen there, and in the folio atlas of plates to Cook's Last Voyage. FUBGIA. Ill against his inclement sky by an abundant develop- ment of tlie adipose tissue; and though his sea- otter or guanaco cloak is sometimes scanty, in ad- miring his hardihood, we must not forget that inside his skin he wears a thick under-clothine; of non-conducting fat. Hence these islanders some- times exhibit feats, the recital of which is enouo-h to make us shiver. In the coldest mid-winter they may be seen diving for sea-eggs ; and it was on a dark night, when the thermometer was at 28°, that some of them swam from the shore, and, from its moorings alongside, cut away the ship's boat of the Adelaide. Nothing can be more wretched than their habi- tations. When a family lands from its canoe, the first care of the women, who are the only workers, is to build a house. For this purpose they cut down twenty or thirty trees, and arranging them in a circle, with the narrow ends resting on each other, like the sheaves in a shock of corn, they tie them together at the top, putting a little thatch or a few skins on the windward side, and leaving one entrance toward the sea and another toward the forest. There they kindle a fire, and there they huddle together night and day in stormy weather ; and there they tarry till they have devoured all the food of the district, and it is time to seek an- other settlement. They are not without a taste for ornament, nor arc thcv (Mitirrly drvoid of ingenuity. Tliey 112 PUEGIA. usually adorn their hair with a fillet of sinewy threads, elaborately and not inelegantly plaited ; and on great occasions this fillet is pranked out with birds' feathers or bits of red cloth obtained from the sailors. They are fond of bracelets and necklaces. These they make from shells or the small bones of animals ; or, failing beads and but- tons, from little chips of crockery. When shells are used, they are drilled so neatly that the process must require both skill and care. The Spanish voyager Cordova speaks Avith admiration of a sort of jar or basket which he found amongst them, entirely formed of bark, and with the bottom so accurately sewed in, that it could carry water without leaking.* But, crazy as they are, their canoes are perhaps a still more wonderful specimen of needle-work. These also are composed of the bark of trees. The main bulk may be the bark of one single beech ; but in order to complete it, a great many patches and a large amount of stitch- ing are requisite. With grass for oakum, and clay for pitch, and with thongs instead of nails, the builder soon finishes a boat which, after its own fashion, is a triumph of naval architecture. As long as it can carry paddlers as well as pumpers, it is considered sea-worthy ; but as soon as it requires all hands to bail it, they think it time to abandon it, and a new one is built or stolen. Although their comforts aio so few, they are * Cordova's Voyage to the Straits of Magellau. FUEGIA. llo well provided with offensive weapons. They have spears, and bows and arrows, and shngs which they use Avith such precision as nearly to equal in effect an ordinary musket. Besides, many of them are furnished with the Patagonian bolas — a chain- shot of formidable character. It consists of two round stones, covered with leather, and fastened to the two ends of a string about eight feet long. One stone is held in the hand whilst the other is whirled round the head till it has acquired sufficient velocity ; and then both are hurled at the object. Should it strike the legs of an ostrich or guanaco, it instantly twists tightly around them and holds the creature in fetters till the huntsman comes up. Yet, with all his weapons, it is a scanty subsist- ence which the Fuegian secures. The sea around him is teeming with food, but he has neither net nor angle ; and it is only Avhen he is lucky enough to spear a rock-salmon, or when he can get a suffi- ciency of a little simpleton fish which allows itself to be spirited out of the water by a baited but bookless line, that this Ichthyophagous Indian de- serves his name. But if he is not a clever fisher- man, he is a cunning bird-catcher. In his fowhng excursions he is attended by a knowing little dog, half fox, half terrier ; and, if it is a moonlit night, the sportsman may be descried on the beach near the roosts of tlio sea-birds, and waiting till his four- footed accomplice returns witli a dead duck in his jaws," whicli lie instantly doposits at his master's 114 FUEGIA. feet, and then scampers off in search of another. This ^well-trained retriever, though an assiduous barker at home, has the sense to carry on tliis sport in the deepest silence ; and the sleeping spoon-bill is jerked from his perch without ever dreaming of danger. They have also a plan of their own for catching petrels. Having first se- cured one with a string to his leg, they lower hira into any crevice where petrels are known to breed. The old birds are indignant at the stranj^er's intru- sion, and fall on him with such blind fury that they allow themselves to be drawn out of the hole, when they are instantly transferred to the fowler's basket. But birds are not always to be procured, and even sea-eggs are not attainable in stormy weather. For a great period of every year these poor islanders are entirely dependent on mussels, limpets, and similar shell-fish ; and, every time that the tide retires, tlie whole population is spread over the shore, rummaging for this sorry subsist- ence. Low-water is the meal-time of the dogs, as well as their masters ; and it is amusing to notice the adroitness with Avhich these sharp-witted crea- tures detach the unwary limpet from his moorings. As soon as this pasture is eaten up, these nomads of tlie beach launch their canoes, and paddle off in quest of new supplies. Sometimes they are so lucky as to discover a stranded whale or a dead sea-lion ; and, however " high " such venison may bo, it is always welcome, and imparts a sudden PUEGIA. 115 plumpness to the fortunate finders. Of course, such prizes are rare ; and, hke most savages, the life of a Fuegian is an alternatidh of occasional feasts with long intervals of famine. In the des- peration of hunger it is fearful to think of the expedients to which he is occasionally driven. There can be no doubt, however, that these In- dians are cannibals, and that when other subsist- ence ftiils, " they kill and devour their old women before they kill their dogs." Those who fall in battle are in like manner devoured by the victors. The intellectual capacity of these savages is, probably, small ; but their powers of mimicry are amazing. A long English sentence deliberately red they will repeat with the utmost precision ; and grotesque attitudes or grimaces many of them can reproduce with a comic gravity worthy of Listen or Matthews. Shameless greed and syste- matic thieving are universal vices. As soon as a canoe comes within hail of a ship, the well-known cry, " Yammer schooner " (Give me), is set up, and at everything given them they clutch and stow it into their basket without one look or utterance of gratitude. Nothing escapes their httle glancing predaceous eyes; and, but for the utmost vigilance, nothing would escape their active fingers. Once and again they proved too cunning for the watch of a man-of-war, and succeeded in abstracting valu- able boats belonging to the surveying expedition of the British Admiralty ; and when a native gentle- 116 FUBGIA. man Lad been paying a visit on board, before he returned to his barge, it was thought no breach of etiquette to examine his cloak for tea-kettles and other trinkets. As Mungo Park experienced in Africa, traces of gentleness and tenderness may be found among the women ; but the mercies of the men are cruel. On the slightest provocation, the roguish simper can be exchanged for a scowl of fiendish ferocity ; and when exasperated, or brought to bay, they fight with more fury than wild beasts. The men are surly tyrants ; the women are laborious slaves. The softenino- infiu- ence of the domestic chai'ities is scarcely known ; and an incident related by Commodore Byron shews the fearful moroseness to which depraved humanity sometimes subsides.* Of the religious belief of these savages little is known. Their divinity appears to be a great black man, who frequents the dim trackless woods * " Our cacique and Lis wife liad goue off in their canoe, when she dived for sea-eggs ; but, not meeting with great success, they re- turned a good deal out of humour. A little boy of theirs, about three years old, whom they appeared to be doatingly fond of, watch- ing for his father and mother's return, ran into the surf to meet them : the father handed a basket of sea-eggs to the child, which being too heavy for him to carry, he let it fall ; upon which tlie father jumped out of the canoe, and catching the boy up in his arms, dashed him with the utmost violence against the stones. The poor little creature lay motionless and bleeding, and in that condition was taken up by the mother ; but died soon after. She appeared in- consolable for sometime; but the brute, his father, shewed little conccm about it." — NarruUvc of the Hon. John liijron, 1768, page iiy. FUEGiA. 117 of the interior ; who is very malignant and power- ful ; and who knows everything that is done or spoken. They are very superstitious. They have great faith in dreams. They will not for any con- sideration allow a stranger to cut off a lock of their hair ; and they think it extremely unlucky to kill the young sea-birds. " Oh, Mr Bynoe, very bad to shoot little duck — come wind — come rain — blow — very much blow," was the solemn remonstrance of one of them to a gentleman who had killed some very young ducklings as zoological specimens. They never speak of the dead. When a boy, hereafter to be mentioned, was questioned about his dead father, he was very unhappy, and refused to answer : " jSTo good talk ; my country never talk of dead man." Embruted as are these savages, they are not sunk beyond recovery. Through the mercy of our God, there is at this moment on the earth a power well able to cure the worst Avoes of Fuegia. True, they are not an inviting race ; but they are none the less a fac-simile of our British forefathers. Sir James Mackintosh was born in a northern latitude exactly corresponding to Cape Horn in the south, and his ancestors lived in a hut without window or chimney, with a fire in the centre of the floor, with a pile of mussel-shells at the threshold, and with smoked fish and deer's flesh hanmno- from the rafters; and when they wished to cross an arm of the sea, they waited for a day of calm 118 FUEaiA. weather Avhich would not endano-er their wicker coracle. The ancestors of Davj and Newton lived in forests almost as sombre as the beech-woods of Narborough's Land. Thej wore cloaks of bull or badger's skin, like the otter or guanaco robes of Navarin Island ; and they anointed their persons, and pipeclayed their faces, in a truly Fuegian fashion. The ancestors of Wesley and Wilberforce worshipped a devil, and were glad to propitiate his wrath by flinging their infants into the fire. But Christianity has wrought for Britain the best of miracles. If it has not brightened the skies and converted these islands into new Ilesperides; it has shed a balm into the moral atmosphere, and it has transformed the population. It has made us, as a people, honest, hard-working, and humane. It Las made a future existence a familiar idea, and it has made the Most High a not unfamiliar presence. It has given us tastes, aspirations, and affections, which a nation of atheists or pagans can never know. And whilst all this has been effected with only a small per-centage of practical religionists in our population, and, we may add, with only a small per-centage of Bible Christianity in our practical religion, it has done enough to teach us that the only thing needed to make any land " a delight- some land," is the gospel in ascendancy. In the year 1831 there were three Fuegians in England. They were brought to this country by Captain FitzRoy, K.N., and the hope was enter- PUEGIA. 119 tained that they might learn our language, and acquire the habits of civilisation, so as to introduce them, on their return, among their own compatriots. One of them was a full-grown man, York jNlinster, a gruff and surly felloAV, who could never bo in- duced to learn anything. Jemmy Button was a good-natured boy of no great capacity ; and Fuegia Basket was a rather pleasing and very intelligent girl. Considerable interest was felt in these visi- tors from the antipodes, and even the king and queen expressed a desire to see them. They were accordingly taken to the palace, and were received with all the gentle kindness so characteristic of Queen Adelaide. Captain FitzRoy consigned them to the care of a schoolmaster at Walthamstow ; and after a few months, accompanied by Mr Matthews, a missionary, he carried them back to their native isles. It may be questioned whether their resi- dence in England was sufficiently long ; and it is likely that, had a selection been practicable, more promising pupils might have been found than York Minster and Jemmy Button. At all events, the ex- periment was very unproductive. On landing in their own country, York Minster married Fuegia Basket, and being a powerful, resolute man, it is pos- sible that he may have been able to preserve from his rapacious neighbours the implements and manu- factured articles with which he was freely supplied But poor Jemmy was soon victimised. His goods were stolen, and his little garden was trodden down ; 120 FTJEGIA. justifying his verdict, " My people very bad ; no sabe nothing ; my people very great fool." And as the violence of the people forced Mr Matthews to return on board, there is too much reason to fear that, left to themselves, his scholars would soon relapse into the surrounding barbarism. CHAPTER VII. iirst IqHs. M7 wanderiugs thovi hast mimbered ; Even every tear mine eyes have shed Thy vial holds ; All in the folds Of thy large volume read. Fsalm Ivi. 8. — George Sandys. If our lives are preserved, and our attempt prospered, we shall next New Year's Day be in India. We shall no more see our kind friends around us, or enjoy the conveniences of civilised life, or go to the house of God with those that keep holy day; but swarthy coun- tenances will everywhere meet our eye, the jargon of an unknown tongue will assail our ears, and we shall witness the assembling of the lie'atlien to the worship of idol gods. We shall be weary of the world, and wish for wings like a dove. We shall probably experi- ence seaons when we shall be " e.weeding sorrowful, even unto death." — Dr Judson. When Dr Judson wrote to his future wife the words just quoted, he did not know how terribly the prognostic would be fulfilled. He did not fore- see the perils of the Burmese war, and the unima- gined horrors of the death-prison at Kangoon. And it is well for us that there is no Agabus to reveal the tribulations through which each must pass to the Kingdom, or to set fully before us the dangers and hardships which attend a new under- taking. Il>was with a cheerful eye that Mr Williams and his comrades surveyed the scene of tbeir projected campaign. But, as we have already said, they saw it to advantage. It was midsummer ; and, as long as the ship remained in sight, the natives wore their summer faces, and appeared mild, and almost friendly. The voyagers arrived in health and vigor ; and, in the excitement of strange circum- stances, the perils and difficulties of their under- taking were materially disguised. 124 FIRST TOILS. It was on the 5th of December 1850 that the Ocean Queen cast anchor in Banner Roads ; and, resuming Mr Williams's Journal, we shall now trace the first proceedings of the missionary pil- grims. " December 5. — At noon we proceeded in the sliip's gig to a small island called Dothan, lying betwixt Garden and Picton Islands, Captain Gardiner had fixed on it as the site of our intended dwelling-house, tl linking it capable of being made peculiarly secure from its position and shape. Here wo read an appropriate psalm, and oifered prayer, and sano' the doxologv. The natives had followed lis, and they stood gazing with wonder whilst we were so engaged. One passed into the centre of our circle, and now and then made an observation ; and when we sang they all joined heartily with ns. We then took possession of the island, and cut away the trees for a place where to fix our tent; but afterwards, in the course of the day, upon more consideration given, we abandoned Dothan, 'and chose our site in Garden Island. Here accordingly the axe was industriously used, and some largo timber was cleared away. In the course of the afternoon, I shot a goose and a duck. In the course of the evening, what from being very tired and cold, and the rush of impressions being very great and forcible upon my mind, my whole body seemed to shrink from the hardships that were palpably before me ; and my flesh, with a cowardly tremor. FIRST TOILS. 125 seemed to protest against the difficulties, the trials, and the dano;ers. Whilst I felt this, I knew it was but the weakness of the flesh, and although I could not, under its present weariness, quiet its alarms, yet I felt a firm and quiet resolution, if need be, to sacrifice the flesh to the cause of God and humanity. It was a trial and a war between the two ; but the spirit within, strengthened by grace, ofiered the flesh upon the altar of sacrifice. Praise God, never did I feel more sensibly how God provides grace against the day of trial than in this instance. " Tuesday, December 10. — To-day the first oppor- tunity presents, of recording the events which have marked our career. On Friday last, early in the day, having selected a spot on Garden Island ad- mirably adapted for our purposes, we conveyed to it bedding, apparel, provisions, and cooking utensils, and engaged ourselves most actively in clearing away a spot sufficiently large for our tents. These we erected, and by nightfall had everything pretty comfortable. AVe had two tents — one for the men, another for ourselves — and between the two a cook- ing-house or kitchen, made of poles we had cut down and covered with oiled canvas. The floor of our tent was covered with cork; over this, oiled canvas, which thus made a dry place for our beds. We had also begun a fence around our tents, which, on the following day, by the assistance of some of our ship's company, we enlarged and completed, so as to be surrounded on all sides except an opening 126 FIRST TOILS. from the beach. It was amusing to see us all at work, each one plying the woodman's handicraft ; right and left, blows were being dealt, and the entano-led forest resounded to our hatchets. We piled up a huge fire, and regaled ourselves with provisions kindly sent us from the ship by our excellent captain. We are indeed greatly indebted to him for unexampled kindness, he having con- stantly manifested the most generous disposition and an affectionate interest in all that concerned us ; ever ready to assist us, and most hospitably and abundantly entertaining us during our whole voyage. The name of Captain Cooper, of the Ocean Queen, deserves to be remembered by us with respect and affectionate gratitude. " We were undisturbed by the natives the whole of the day, and congratulated ourselves on this fortunate circumstance, as we hoped, by their not seeing our possessions, they would not be so excited to molest and pilfer from us. By eleven at night we were all so far straight as to be able to retire to rest, which all of us did, excepting the Captain and mj^self. We had agreed that each should keep a two hours' watch the ni^ht throuo-h, and this the Captain proposed should be commenced by himself takino; the first watch, commencing' at ten o'clock every night. The Captain accordingly rigged him- self in his sou'-wester and india-rubber overcoat and overalls ; and thus armed against the rain, for it was pouring with Fucgian earnest, he sallied ^- FlItST TOILS. 127 forth ; and about half-past twelve, I succeeded liira. " I had not lain doAvn, on account of the short- ness of time before commencing my watch ; and now that I was alone in the dead hours of nio-ht, surrounded by the dark masses of wood on the one hand, and the rippling waters on the other, with the i-ain pouring in heavy showers, and after a fatiguing day, I could not overcome the weakness of my frail heart, and I felt oppressed. The time of my watch hung heavily upon me ; and I almost counted the minutes as they passed. Strange cries broke upon my ear ; the penguin's harsh croak, with the shrill whistle of some sea-bird, and many sounds that I could scarce account for, all tending to give an extraordinary character to the scene. I felt no fear, neither did I wish to be differently circumstanced ; but I was wearv, and I wished heartily for rest. Two o'clock came, and then was poor Mr Maidment's turn. He had thrown himself down on his bed with his clothes on, and now he engaged with alacrity in the duty which fell to him. Selfish nature was glad of the opportunity to ex- change positions even thus with a friend and a brother, and to comfort itself in the warmth and repose of bed. I slept soundly, and awoke the next morning ready to resume the labor of the day. We persevered all Saturday in completing our fence, and arrano-ino- matters to our sa-tisfaction, and still we continued unmolested by any of t];0 natives, — a 128 FIRST TOILS, matter somewhat surprisino-, had wo not hence conjectured that they were going to give the intellio-ence of our arrival to others of their ac- quaintance. " Toward the evening, however, we had intima- tion of their approach ; and three of them, whom Ave had before seen alongside the vessel, came up to us. They appeared no way surprised at what they beheld, but greeted us with apparent good- ]iature, yarnmer-schoonering after everything they saw, and moving in a sidelong manner towards the enclosure of our tents, anxious to look in ; but we intimated our disapproval of this, and they were very tractable. These three were very peaceable and quiet, imitating every word we spoke, catching at any oddity they observed in our manner or doings, and laughing, and seeming altogether so well disposed, that we had good hope of maintain- ing a friendly footing with them, and have no reason to fear their molesting us. As the evening grew late, Captain Gardiner made signs to them to leave us, intimating that it was time to go to sleep, by laying his head on his hand, and then gently directing them to the entrance. They readily per- ceived our wish, and without hesitation departed. " We had not provided meat for our food this day. For this purpose I went out witli my gun (for we have first to shoot or fish, before Ave can dine) ; and having brought back a goose and a duck, a stew Avas made of these, with the addition of some wild FIRST TOILS. 129 celery Tve found in the woods; and having finisiied the day witli prayer, we again took our repose by sleep. " Forcibly convinced that we ought not to suifer the Captain to share the duty of watching, I begged him that he would alloAV us to divide it entirely among ourselves, which, after some trouble and entreaty, he at length consented to do. At two o'clock I was called to take my post. The morning was fine and quite light, and everything around wore a pleasing aspect. The two hours I now spent, I trust 1 shall never forget. I felt the precious influence of the Spirit of grace and love upon my heart, and never were my impressions of divine truths so forcible ; never did I feel more sensibly the vanity and littleness of all human things, save as they bear reference to the eternal and invisible kingdom of God. I was much affect- ed by the thought, that what the poor natives of these islands were to us, so thousands and tens of thousands of the inhabitants of so-styled civilised lands were in God's sight — savages in their enmity against a just and good and holy God. I clearly saw that I had not so much danger to dread at the hands of these poor wretched natives, as at the hands of polished and civilised people : those would only assault my body, and rob me of a few earthly comforts, whilst the latter, by their influence and example, would rob me of an everlasting salvation; My heart, by the reflection, was drawn out in behalf I 130 FIRST TOILS. of my native land, and, alas ! I felt that there was spiritual wickedness in high places, and cor- ruption Avorking at the very core of human society. The blessing of God's presence in a holy frame of mind, with great joy, was felt as I never felt before in like manner. The time very quickly passed away, very differentl}'" from the night before. Afterwards, whilst in bed, I was greatly led out in spirit to praise and bless God. " The following day, Sunday, was spent very happily and profitably, I was engaged most of the day with my Bible, and in close communion with God, blessed in the sense of his presence and favor. During the morning services, just as Ave commenced them, the three natives wc had hitherto seen came again and either sat or stood at our tent door. There they remained, for the most part very quietly, whilst we Avere engaged in Avorship, little thinking hoAv nearly they themselves stood concerned in Avhat Ave Averc doing. All things went on very quietly, and nothing occurred to dis- turb us until late in the afternoon, Avhcn Ave Avere startled at the mournful yelling cry of some of the Avomen, from their canoes, like the prolonged hoAvl of a dog. The Fuegians, who were Avith us at the time, immediately pricked up their ears, and mak- ing sijins to us Avhich we understood to mean that As^e Averc not to folloAv them, they departed in haste, and proceeded up to the head of Banner CoA'e, toward the outlet leading to Banner l\oafl!=5. FIRST TOILS. 131 Soon we perceived, by the help of our glasses, that some strangers were joimng them. We noticed that our Fuegians took their spears with them before they went to meet them, and we imagined that the women might at first apprehend that the strangers were their foes. " In the course of a few hours appeared the new-comers, who, we afterwards had reason to conclude, were from Navarin Island, and of the Yacuna tribe. We were immediately sensible that they were altogether a different people from the others. Their faces were quite blackened over, and they were sturdy and audacious in their bear- ing, and, as we soon found, impudent and uncon- trollable. Unlike the former, they were ready to resent every refusal of their importunate demands, and resisted our endeavours to keep them in check, looking at us with a most contemptuous and malign expression, and, by their demeanor, plainly be- speaking mischief. They were very well made, and, but for the diabolical passions expressed in their countenances, really good-looking men. Like the others, they had the crown of the head cropped close, and the fore part like a circlet of long hair hanging over the face. Like the others, too, they were perfectly naked, except the guanaco skin, which hung loosely over their shoulders and back, and which they occasionally folded together around their arms. Each wore a necklace made of small shells. With five of thc>e men around 132 FmST TOILS. US, prying into everything, the other three hav- ing now put on a less pacific deportment, and ahnost entering our tent by force, our situation was not agreeable. It required all our vigilance to watch their motions ; and, from their whispering together, and their bold attempts to look into our tents, we suspected that they were concocting some plan of attack. However, after a time, they left us, Captain Gardiner having very plainly expressed his wish to that effect. After this — and upon the conclusion of a very profitable service, during which, as has always been our custom on the Sun- day evening, Captain Gardiner read a very excel- lent and encouraging sermon, and I read from the Scriptures and prayed — we set the watch and retired to bedr ■'It had been agreed that, on the least occasion of alarm, a railway whistle, provided for tlie purpose, should be blown. Accordingly, a little before four o'clock on Monday morning, we were startled by its shrill sound, and were out of bed and dressed in an instant. The cause of the alarm was the coming of the two black-faced natives. It was raining heavily and a very disagreeable morning, and we were a little uncomfortable at so early an intru- sion. The Captain and Mr Maidment, together with poor Bryant, who was on watch for the time, encountered them, I returning in after a while, as did the Captain also. Mr Maidment and Bryant being left, had a great deal of trouble with them FIRST. TOILS. 133 One of them had the audacity to push the former quite off his seat, although he is a much bigger made man than the native himself. They also AYOukl have taken off Bryant's boots, had they not been forcibly resisted. After remaining two hours, they grew tired and left us. But in the course of the morning, whilst Mr Maidment and "I were out in the boat with Captain Cooper, the same men with some others again visited our tents, and so determined was their conduct, and so utterly con- temptuous, all but bordering upon open hostility, that it was quite manifest we could no longer stay on shore, and Erwin came from Captain Gardiner with a message to Captain Cooper, asking him for hands to assist him, as he would at once strike the tent?, and have all our things on board the boats. This was the original intention of Captain Gar- diner ; but he was anxious, while the boats were being got ready, and whilst the vessel was staying with us, to try an establishment on the land, so as to see what disposition the natives would evince. 1 was already firmly persuaded that the thing was impracticable, and was convinced that to prolong our stay another night would be attended with the loss of our property, and perhaps of our lives. I had only intimated these my apprehensions to Captain Gardiner, but did not press my opinion. I was therefore glad when I heard liis determina- tion to abandon the land, and take to our boats. For that purpose, last evening (Monday) all our 134 FIRST TOILS. things were again brought on board the Ocean Queen, where we shall remain for a few days in the enjoyment of all our former comforts, until our boats are ready. " I should not omit to add that on Monday morn- ing, at the moment the whistle disturbed me from my sleep, after some hours of troubled and anxious thought, I had just begun to slumber. During the night I could not but feel how portentous was our present horizon, and what dangers, difficulties, and privations awaited us on all hands. I greatly deplored the pressure of such thoughts, and resisted them over and over again with little success. But my compassionate Jesus helped me to look up to him as ready to help me even against myself, and to offer up myself again a willing sacrifice unto God. In this frame of mind I had sunk to sleep ; and when the alarm awoke me, it was just at the moment when I seemed to be hearing the songs of angels singing, 'We live to Christ alone;' and oh, how heavenly was the impression made upon my heart! how sweet the sound still ringing in my ears, * We live to Christ alone ! ' How full of mean- ing the words, 'Angels live to Christ alone!' We live to him alone, so must you. Yes, yes, my heart, my soul responded ; by the grace of my blessed Saviour, I will live to Christ alone. " I should also mention that whilst reading the Scriptures on Sunday, every word seemed to be a volume, and truly 1 could say that then he opened FIRST TOILS. 135 to me the Scriptures. Yea, I bless God, the Scrip- tures are become a precious treasure to me now, and I begin to verify the saying of Christ, that we must sell all we have, before we can go and pur- chase the field containing the treasure of God's grace and the riches of his Son. Oh! the world and Christ are opposed indeed. We must leave all if we would be his disciples : not that it is needful that we should all go into a heathen land to find the preciousness of Christ to our souls; but that all who seek after Christ should in no respect be con- formed to the world. God's love cannot be felt and known but where God's will is obeyed ; and his will requires of us, that we renounce the world, the flesh, and the devil, and live to God ; glorify- ing Christ with our body and soul, which are his. " On Saturday, in company with Captain Cooper, we took one of the Fuegians with us in the Captain's gig, and cruised about for some hours. I shot a penguin at a considerable distance ofi", and this for the purpose of making an impres- sion on his mind. He seemed somewhat impressed with the sight of the wounded bird, though not much interested in the gun, or curious about it ; however, he did not like that it should be brought very close to him, and seemed to have some fear of it. We took the man afterwards on board the ship, and rigged him out in trousers, shirt, stock- ings, coat, and cap, which one and another pro- vided for him ; we also did the same for two other 136 FIKbX XOIL.S. Fuegians, who came alongside tlie vessel in their canoes with their families. Afterwards we took the man back with us to our station ; gave him the bird, which, when some of his companions, five in all, including two children, joined him, he put on the burning embers, singed the feathers, then plucked them, and having laid it on the fire again for about a quarter of an hour, it was ready cooked according to their taste ; and then, borrowing a knife from one of the men, which he was honest enough afterwards to return, he dissected it, giving each one of the party a portion. These again bit oil pieces and gave them to each other. And thus tliey devoured the whole, without the least part being left except the bones and feathers, shewing us such a specimen of rapacious voracity and ex- pertness in dismembering and clearing the bones, as we had no conception of before. I also shot a large bird, the bald-headed vulture, which I gave them ; this they carried off to their families for a repast at home. We have been disappointed in finding no fish in any of the waters about us, neither catching any ourselves, nor seeing any with the natives, with one exception only, and then only a solitary one. Yesterday, we took courage on seeing some large albatrosses in the act of devour- ing a large rock salmon, which they had a minute or two before caught. The absence of fish is the more important to us, as the Captain, having ob- served plenty with the natives when lie was hcic FIRST TOILS. 137 before, had fully reckoned on them, and had pro- vided no store of animal food, not even beef and pork. One thing more to be noticed now, is the remarkable aptitude of the people at imitation. Of this we had a striking instance on Sunday last, when talking to one of the boys. Not a word we uttered, but he repeated it over; not a question we put to him, but he answered us back in our own words, and imitated our every movement, so that it was quite ludicrous to see the child, as well as tiresome to talk with him. " Tuesday, Dec. 17. — In company with Cap- tain Cooper, we dined on shore in honor of the Captain's birthday, and to celebrate the naming of a point of land after him, called Cape Cooper. It rained nearly all the time we Avere at dinner, but we proceeded therewith as coolly as though we had been in the sunshine, indeed somewhat more so." Owing to some indispensable repairs, the Ocean Queen had been detained in Banner Cove longer than was anticipated ; but the time was now arrived when she must proceed on her voyage, and take leave of the missionary settlers. They availed themselves of the opportunity for sending letters home ; and a few paragraphs from one which Mr Williams addressed to his sister will interest our readers : — " December 13. '* You will see, my dear Anne, by what I have written to C, where we now are, and how we are 138 FIRST TOILS. situated. You can enter into my feelings. You know the source which suppUes my consolations, and the fountain whence my joys arise. God is alhsufiicient for us, if we are his children in Christ Jesus, and put our whole trust in him. All who have hitherto inherited the promises have been strangers and pilgrims, and this, by God's grace, I am now. Kejoice therefore, my dear A., and know that all things shall work together for my good. Be not uneasy and apprehensive concerning me; but let your heart be glad that I am thus called to serve God and live to him. I believe I shall be spared to return to you again. But what- ever be the will of God concerning this, vv-e do know his will concerning our meeting together in his own presence, where there are pleasures for evermore. Then all will be lasting and secure : no more change, no more partings ; but every tear will be dry, and the songs of our rapture will abound. The lap of comfort is too often the nurse of sin and sorrow, whilst the thorny path of duty, although through the wilderness, is the sure road to everlasting bliss, and fruitful in heavenly joys. Cheer thee up, then, my dear A., and seek with me first the kingdom of God, and live in the enjoyment of the love of Christ." " Wigwam, Banner Cove, "December 18. " My dear Sister, — We have this day talcoa leave of the ship and all on board; and uoav, with FIRST TOILS. 139 our beats moored alongside of our station, or rather the place appointed for it, and in a wigwam of our own building — made of trees, thatched at the sides, with a fire in it — not far from the wigwams of the natives ; with the woods of Picton Mand on the one side, and separated from Garden Island by Banner Cove ; seated on the earth for my floor, I now write these last few lines again to say fare- well, and to bid you God- speed. God bless you. All is well, dearest A. ; the Lord does greatly comfort and strengthen me. " I have received a" very pleasing testimony from the Captain of the ship and the passengers and crew, who united together, and purchased from one of the passengers a gold watch, with a gold chain, a silver pencil case, and a gold ring. This handsome present was given me to-day by the Captain, in presence of all the company on board, with a very flattering memorial drawn up and read. They allege as the motive to this very handsome conduct, the services I have rendered to many of them ; but I can sincerely say that nothing was farther from my expectations, and tliat I was conscious of no such desert. I simply performed a duty that de- volved upon me. Several of the men, even the sailors, wept on my taking leave of them, and seemed to feel greatly on leaving. They also pre- sented Mr Maidment with a ring and pencil-case. He really deserved their esteem ; for I never saw any person more kind in his attentions to the sick, 140 FIRST TOILS. nursing them, cooking for them, and assisting them at all hours of the night. I regard this expression of their kindness as a good evidence that their hearts have been somewhat touched by the pro- fession we have made of the Lord Jesus, and I hope that the grace of God maj more deeply and permanently affect them. " T must close. My love to C, to mother, &c., and to all my dear friends. To-night the ship leaves us. I shall not go on board again; but a boat shall take this on board. " All is well, God be praised ! It is beyond all thought blessed to be given up entirely to the service of Christ. His consolations and the com- forts of the Holy Ghost are infinitely precious, and far outweigh all privations we have to encounter. " Farewell, farewell ! " Your ever affectionate brother, " Richard." Tt is the twofold glory of Christianity, that it infuses fresh tenderness into the relative affections, and yet, when needful, it can subordinate or supersede them. Mr Williams had warm feelings naturally, and religion made them warmer ; and the parting Avith loved friends was the sorest pang in his departure for Fuegia. But as distance did not impair his attachments, so these attachments did not weaken his zeal. He did not put his hand to the plough, and turn his eye to his English FIRST TOILS. 141 home; but, whatever might be liis secret hopes for the future, he gave all his heart to the work before him. The love of Christ constrained him, and the sacrifice of earthly endearment which he had made for His sake, helped to render that Master's authority more august and his fiivor more precious. And if it be a fine spectacle to see a home-sick but oaken-hearted sailor like Colling- wood, sustained by a simple sense of duty — keep- ing his post one weariful year after another, Avhen a flower from his own garden would have been more welcome than a forest of laurel, and a sight of his children more prized than a step in the peerage — it is surely as great a lesson to see the Christian missionary self-exiled from what he deems -an earthly paradise, and, in a calling which admits no earthly recompence, bound to a bar- barous shore by no other mooring than compassion for his fellow- men and loyalty to his Lord in heaven. It would be wrong to print the outpour- ings of brotherly and friendly tenderness, and the yearnings homeward with which Mr Williams's letters overflow ; but, having been allowed to read them, we confess that they have greatly exalted the writer in our eyes, and have imparted to his mission another element of martyrdom. Returnino- to the Journal, we resume the record after the sailing of the Ocean Queen : — " Our ship was seen getting under weigh at about nine o'clock on the morning of the 19tli December, 142 FIRST TOILS. and in a few hours we lost sight of her. God speed her, and all that are in her ! About ten o'clock on the same morning we ourselves prepared to leave Banner Cove, in search of a place where we might deposit some of our stores, our boats being too much crowded. We could not stow any in the immediate vicinity, on account of the natives. Ac- cordingly, w^e got under weigh, but the wind was ahead of us at first. We had to make several tacks, and were sometimes puzzled in the attempt. My berth was in the Pioneer with Captain Gardiner ; but, as he required two of the sailors with him, I exchanged places with Bryant, and went on board the Speedwell, which was under command of Erwin, Badcock being with us. Thus we were divided, Captain Gardiner, Mr Maidment, Pearce, and Bry- ant in the Pioneer, and we three in the Speedivell. The Speedivell was much the heavier laden of the two, and greatly encumbered with stores. In addition, we had a heavy raft of timber fastened to our stern, and towed after us. I now turned to, to assist for the first time in the management of a sailing craft. I soon was able to handle the main- sheet, in working the boat, * hauling aft ' and ' slackening off,' ' brailing up ' and ' furling,' as I'equired ; and rigged out in most of tlio gear of a sailor, with sou'- wester, a blue sera;' shirt, and heavv sea-boots. The wind was blowinu fresh from the N.E., with squalls of rain, and, although some- what gloomy the weather, and chilHng, we set off FIRST TOILS. 143 in excellent spirits. After tacking about for more than an hour, the Pioneer got the start of us, bv •weathering on one tack the point of land project- ing from Garden Island, and we lost sight of her. In attempting to do the same, the raft we had in tow came on our weather bow, whilst we were in stays, and we were driven leeward considerably. We now tried to wear her, but, owing to a field of kelp on our lee bow, she would not go round, and we saw ourselves fast drifting right on the surf. We were startled and amazed at the suddenness of the danger, as well as by its imminency and great- ness. It was scarcely credible to our senses, that, in the course of a few minutes, and almost at the instant of our losing sight of our companions, we should be exposed to such a peril as was now before us. All was anxiety and alacrity to do whatever we could. The anchor was hastily let go, but, owing to the mass of kelp and bad holding-ground, it came home until we were in the midst of the rocks. Destruction now, indeed, threatened us, and poor Erwin was almost beside himself. ' The boat, the boat will be lost ! — she's done for, she'll go to pieces ! ' was the poor fellow's repeated ex- clamation. We did our utmost, by means of the boat-hooks, &c., to keep her from being heaved by the roaring swell on the rocks. Now she was broadside, and all but upon them ; now her bow was really in danger of being stoved : we Avero first at one part, and as immediately at another, ]44 FIRST TOILS. our hands being fully engaged, to keep her from" striking. Betwixt two and three hours we con- tinued thus, in constant and unceasing effort, till at length we were somewhat relieved by getting a spring on the cable, on which I held for an hour longer, whilst Erwin and Badcock fixed the boat- hooks. The wind was blowing; hard durino- the whole time, with increasing blasts at intervals, and the surge was furiously dashing about us. For more than four hours together had we thus to con- template the probability of our destruction ; and if our lives should be saved, yet now, separated from our companions, all our provisions gone, if left on shore, helpless and destitute, and at the mercy of tlie natives, the prospect was not pleasing. Were such my thoughts ? They might have crossed my mind. But they were not my thoughts ; my thoughts were altogether different. The grace of God so strongly supported me, that I felt not the least alarm, and v/as all along confident tliat we should again get off in safety. Indeed, I could not lielp thinking that I was too insensible to our danger, and too httle affected by it. Certain, however, it was, that not a struggle nor one emo- tion of fear occurred to me. I felt that, whatever the result might be, all would be well, for God had the ordering of this, as well as of anv other circum- stance which should betide us. Poor Erwin, as vet a stranger to the grace of God, gave way to pas- sionate paroxysms of grief, not on account of any FIRST TOILS, 145 danger to himself, but on acconnt of the appro-- hended loss of our boat, and the injury we all, as well as the mission itself, would sustain thereby. Dear fellow! his feelings reflected honor upon him, as well as his unparallelled exertions. After re- maining in our dangerous position the time before specified, a lull occurred in the wind, and wc thought it a good opportunity to make an effort to get out, and push round the rocks into open water. It was, however, a most critical juncture, and presented certain destruction if we failed. Falling down before God, we sought his direction and help in prayer, and upon rising from our knees immediately proceeded to cut the chain cable ; but, not succeeding in this, we let it go altogether. And now, although destruction appeared inevitable, the swell launching us broadside with great force in the direction of the rocks ; yet, by the mercy of God, the danger was averted, and, after exerting ourselves to the uttermost, we found ourselves out- side the rocks and round the point. Here again another difficulty presented itself. Our rudder had been unshipped and carried away, and, before w^e could get any command of the boat, the wind and tide drifted us against the opposite small island, Round Island, wdien we had again to make strenu- ous efforts with our boat-hooks. Hardly had wo escaped this when wc touched some sunken rocks and shoal Avater, but were again mercifully pre- served. On getting free, wc took the only alter- K 146 FIRST TOILS, native left us, and ran aground on the shelving beach of Garden Island. Now, thank God, there was rest for the soles of our wearied feet. We hauled up the boat, and gave God praise. Happily at the time no natives appeared. Had they been present and witnessed our distress, humanly speak- ing we should have been altogether in their power, and in all probability must have fallen victims to their cupidity. But the providence of God was over us. The Lord is our shield. It was late in the day when we got here, and now, without any hope of seeing our companions this day, the wind being strong and against their putting back, we passed the night, sleeping very soundly till the time of high Avater, about three in the morning, when the boat was again afloat, and we once more got her into Banner Cove. " Friday the 20th passed, and we saw nothing of our companions till past midnight, when we were aroused from sleep by their shouting and rattling against our boat. How happy were we to see them returned and safe ! They too had their difficulties. After losing sight of us they had proceeded, think- ing we should soon follow them, and after survey- ing several entrances on the north shore, had found an excellent harbour about twenty miles from Banner Cove, which Captain Gardiner named Blomefield Harbour, after Sir Thomas Blomefield, former secretary to our Society. Here they passed the night, remaining till the weather afforded them FIHST TOILS. 147 a hope of returning to seek after us. Shortly after our separation they lost both dingies which they were towing astern, the lieavy swell having snapped the chain by which they were fastened. They found the boat not altogether fitted for sea, at least for rough weather, having no scuttle on her fore hatch- way, and leaking greatly from one of the bolt-holes in the knee of the bulk-head, which added much to their perplexities. Captain Gardiner was, however, highly gratified in having found a harbour so ex- cellently adapted for us as he deemed Blomefield Harbour to be, where he thought there was every facility to complete the fittings-up of our boat, and to overhaul the Pioneer for her leak, and likewise, as no natives were seen, where we might deposit our ample stores. " Bent upon this, we again set out in company at about ten o'clock, on Saturday the 21st. The morning was very fine, with light breezes, but against us ; so that, when in Beagle Channel, we had to tack about all day long, and made but little way. However, all was very pleasant, and we kept in company until the evening, when our boat, the Speedwell, got considerably ahead, and we at length lost sight of the Pioneer. We stood on our course, and, by the directions given, we got abreast of the entrance to Blomefield Harbour. Surprised, how- ever, at the delay in the Pioneer coming up with us, we kept cruising about during the niglit, and seeing nothing at all of thcni, we in our turn became 148 FlUST TOILS. alarmed for tlieir safety. Accordingly, about six in the morning, a fine breeze springing up in favor of our return, we put back for Banner Cove, hoping they might have returned there. Abreast of the Cove we at first saw no indication of them, and Avcre just in the act of standing out again for sea, thinking that somehow or other they must have passed us in the night, and got before us into the harbour, when Badcock got sight of the boat masts and a flag flying at the top of one of them. She was but just visible, and we were greatly puzzled to account for her position, as well as alarmed at seeing her as we thought disastrously stranded. We got up to her as speedily as possible. Blessed be God ! our first salutation from Captain Gardiner was, ' All is right, but had you not come, all would have been wrong.' They had put back on account of the hght wind, to pass the night in our old locality, and had entered by Cook's Passage, but the tide, on ebbing, had receded further than was expected, and had left them aground. A large party of the natives had come back to Tent Cove, and had been harassing them much. Just as our boat hove in sight they were mustering their forces, and our little party fully expected an attack ; but if they had any such intention, our coming caused them to abandon it. Early in the morning the natives had quite taken our friends by surprise, and being ashore, they clambered up into the boat without there being any possibility of preventing FIRST TOILS. 149 them. At this moment, so critical, the Captain with his httle band knelt down and offered up prayer to God, the natives standing about them ; and it was apparent that during the time a real change took place in the countenance of one in particular of the natives, and they were all remark- ably quiet and subdued. As soon as the tide was at full, the Pioneer was got off, and both boats got under weigh. " Tuesday, December 24. — At Tent Cove, early in the morning, our alarm whistle was blown to apprise us that the natives were coming off. This was about four o'clock, and all hands were immedi- ately on deck to be prepared in case they meant to attack us. The natives consisted of eight men with their wives and families, in three canoes ; they came alongside, and we deemed it prudent not to let them approach so near as to be able to spring- on board. They, however, shewed no actually hostile spirit. We rather anticipated they would, especially as the night previous they had hung up white streamers on their canoes, and painted them- selves white, which wc understood to mean hostility ; and we did not know for what purpose they all were mustered together and put off in company. As we gave them nothing on this occasion, but intimated rather our dissatisfaction with them, they soon left us and went out of the Bay into the Beagle Channel. The natives being gone, we availed our- 150 FiliST TOILS. selves of this opportunity to get back our raft of timber, which was lying on the beach opposite their wigwams ; and we also succeeded in recovering our chain and ground tackle, and also a raft which we had constructed in place of our dingies. In the evening we buried, or rather stowed away, all our surplus provisions, an excellent place being found for that purpose on Garden Island. " Wednesday, 25. — Took up our position at Banner Cove, and overhauled the Pioneer, to get at her leak. Christmas day was, as almost every day had hitherto been since we got on board the boats, a day of bustle and work ; this was unavoid- able. Our Christmas dinner consisted of preserved meat, and some wheat-meal dough with a few I'aisins in it, which we enjoyed as much as any epicure in England could enjoy his well-spread table and delicate viands. We remembered our dear friends, and in God's name blessed them. " Thursday, 26. — The natives returned, and ' came up to us in a very friendly manner, and we bartered with them for some small fish, which they had speared ; they then passed on in the direction of their wigwams, but we saw nothing more of them that day. " Tuesday, 31. — Up to the present time, no- thing very material has occurred. We are now getting into something like settled habits, as re- spects our new quarters and altered cirumstances. FIRST TOILS. 151 Two things have happened of a disappointing na- ture, Avhich it has rather puzzled us to make up for. One is, that whereas Captain Gardiner was in expectation of there being abundance of fish here, we find hterally none, saving the small ones caught by the natives, but we do not know where they obtained them. The other disappointment arises from our having left our stock of powder on board, so that we can no longer supply ourselves with ducks and geese, of which there are plenty here. Anticipating neither of these failures, no large provision of animal food was made ; only two casks of preserved meat, and one of pork, the latter purchased from the Ocean Queen. Conse- quently, our diet consists chiefly of wheat-meal and oat-meal, with rice and biscuit, cheese, butter, and molasses. " Thui'sday, January 2, 1851. — Yesterday was with me a day of humbling and bowing down be- fore tlic Lord. Every circumstance that "has oc- curred in this land of storms and desolation, has tended to the same end — to humble and abase me. The natural man has day by day been crucified. The privation of accustomed comforts, the vicissi- tudes already experienced, the trying duties de- volving on us, the dulness and great inclemency of the climate, the solitude of the scenery, the unin- viting character of the natives, and the apparent hopelessness of contending against so many difficul- 152 FIRST TOILS. ties, — all these tilings the flesh has had to be loaded with, and, together with its OAvn fears and repin- ings, to be nailed to the cross and yield up the ghost, whilst in the room thereof Christ should be raised up and found in me the hope of glory." CHAPTER VIII. D'cto f rials. Lord, listen to my lowly dirge. My plaintive call attend ; My fainting heart to thee would vu'ge A prayer from earth's far end. Within thy tabernacle shade I wonlil fur aye abide, In wings of thy kind sheltering aid Would safely rest and hide. Psalm Ixi. 1, 2, 4. — Kchle. In journeyings often, in perils of waters, in perils of rohhers, in perils by the heathen, in perils in the wilderness, in perils in the sea; in weariness and painfuluess, in watchings often, in hunger and thirst, in fastings often, iu cold and nakedness.—^ Primitive Mis- sionary. Had the funds of the mission admitted of the pur- chase of a vessel of a hundred tons burden, the mission party would have been comparatively inde- pendent. As soon as it became dangerous to remain on shore, they Avoukl have found a secure refuge on ship-board; and, in the event of their provisions failing, they could easily have proceeded for supplies to Port Famine or the Falkland Isles. In that case, they would also have been saved the fatigue and anxiety of hiding their stores where there was great risk of the natives finding them ; and instead of creeping round these dreary coasts in boats too small to weather a storm, and which could scarcely offer them a dry berth when the day was done, they would have faced the blast with some confidence, and they would, at least, have lodged in comfort. As it was, with their shallop launches, as soon as the Ocean Queen took leave of them they were almost as completely imprisoned in the Fuegian 156 NEW TRIALS. islands as was Alexander Selkirk in Juan Fernan- dez ; and to reach a Christian settlement across such turbulent seas, would have been little less than a miracle. On the other hand, as Mr Ritchie repre- sented to Captain Gardiner, the chances of European vessels visiting their rendezvous were very small, and it would have required a powerful inducement to tempt any to such a dangerous deflexion from their usual course. But with a noble ardor the leader of the expedition longed to enter on his cherished project. He knew that there were fish in the sea, and abundance of birds on the shore. He had with him provisions for six months; and before these should be expended he calculated on fresh supphes from England. And although none knew better the wildness of these waters, should it be found impossible to propitiate the natives, he trusted that on some unfrequented coast, or afloat in some tranquil cove, he and his comrades might hold out till more effectual means were placed at their disposal. Already, however, several elements in this calcu- lation were annihilated. To say nothing of the unsuitableness of low-decked boats, whose iron roofs condensed the vapor and kept a perpetual rain dripping on the berths and floors, their ser- viceableness from the first was materially impaired by the loss of tiie two '• dingies," Avhich were in- tended as a communication between the launches and the land. By a fearful oversight the gunpowder was NEW TRIALS. 157 left in the ship, and it was now on its way to San Francisco ; and although there were fowhng-pieces and good marksmen in the party, they had less power to secure the game with which they were surrounded than the savages who had nothing but their slings. And, although they had brought with them a net, this also they were destined to lose ; so that, in a climate beyond all others requiring warm shelter and generous diet, these devoted men soon found themselves without cordials, without animal food, without dry clothing, without a single material comfort. But not to anticipate the narrative, we resume the Journal of our meek and cheerful missionary: — " Lennox Cove, Wednesday, Jan. 8, 1851. — Another eventful period has elapsed, and intro- duced new scenes, and brought fresh trials; but, praise God, the good providence of God has been marvellously manifested. As previously men- tioned, the natives caused us some alarm, by their mustering together at an early hour on the morning of Tuesday the 24th December ; but we could not be sure, though we had a strono- sus- picion, that their intentions on that occasion were hostile. They passed on, and did not return till Thursday the 26th, when they shewed a de- cidedly pacific spirit, but we were surprised to see nothing more of them after that time. We did not know whether they left the Cove the same evening or the morning followina:; nor did wo know their 158 NEW TRIALS. motive for leaving again. It miglit be that they were planning some mischief against us, or it might be that they were going to fish. We, however, cheerfully entrusted our keeping to God, and de- termined to wait the order of events, and to act as circumstances should direct. " That the Fuegians were not to be trusted, and that our property was a great excitement to their cupidity, and that they would go any length to gain possession of it, we were now Avell assured. The art of dissimulation is very perfect among them : when they were few in number, and while tlie ship was present, their demeanor was quiet enough ; but when they were upon a par with us, the ship being gone, matters were altogether altered. " The boldness and troublesome conduct of the party who disturbed us whilst in our tents on Garden Island, afforded us one striking instance of their disposition. On that occasion, there were only three or four of them ; yet we had some diffi- culty to keep them from thrusting themselves into our tents, and repeatedly since then we had occa- sion to notice the haughtiness of their bearino; and the forwardness of their conduct. This was more particularly the case with the individual whom, for the sake of distinction, we named ' Jemmy.' This man was very well formed and featured, and most active in his habits : unusual energy and quickness of mind were very perceptible in him. But all this was for evil, nnd rot for good : he was the ring-: NEW TKIALS. 159 leader, and acted in some measure as chief. He was a daring and determined spirit, and his pride and consequence were exhibited in his rejecting with contempt anything of a trifling character, wliilst he shewed a sound judgment in appreciating aught of a useful nature. On one occasion he passed back a preserved-meat can, which the others always gladly accepted ; and unless it was a knife, or a nail, or something of the sort, which was given him, a withering smile passed across his lips. If we might judge by the working of his features, his opinion of us was altogether contemptuous. " A rather singular circumstance is connected with the coming of this individual and his party, which happened on the Sunday evening, whilst at our tent as before mentioned. It was then that the peculiar and dismal yelling cry, a loud and pro- longed wail of the women in their canoes, moored to the kelp, was set up. We also thought that this ' Jemmy,' as we called him, was in all probability acquainted with a spot where we found the muti- lated and charred remains of a human body, the skin of the head and face being undestroyed ; and we Avere not without a suspicion that he might be the perpetrator of this work of malevolence. A slino- was found near these remains. " Another thing to be noticed in 'Jemmy' was his frequent change of complexion. At first he and his companions were painted black ; this was after- wards exchanged for white streaks, and then gave lliO NEW TKIALS. place to a very tastefully executed ornamental painting of white dots very orderly arranged. One of his two wives, as we suppose the young women to be who were generally in his canoe with him, was painted precisely like liim, which we took to express his favor towards her. Both these were finely made persons, and really good looking ; they had each an infant at the breast. I have been greatly struck with the quiet and easily abashed deportment of these young persons, and with their utter subjection to their master. ' Jemmy,' how- ever, appeared to treat them kindly, and whatever beads or light articles we gave him, he handed to these companions. " After some days had elapsed, the natives re- turned on Saturday morning, January 4, about seven o'clock. The signal was given by our look-out, and 'Jemmy' and some others of our old acquaint- ance were soon alongside. But we found that others, to the number of eight canoes, were coming in sight ; and as there are usually two men, and sometimes more, in each canoe, we knew that their strength was greatly superior to ours. Captain Gardiner got his glass, and he plainly enough saw that they were come purposely to attack us, as they were well provided with their war spears ; and moreover, they were taking in stones from the beach, the most certain evidence of their hostile intentions. No time was now to be lost, and with all speed both boats were got under sail. NEW TRIALS. 161 " Several circumstances here are to be recorded of the mercy of God to us. Had we been lying in Tent Cove, as the day before it was proposed we should, we never should have got out of it in time. Or had we had our tents rigged, as we all along had until two days before, when the high winds compelled us to take them down, we should not have been able to get the boats ready soon enough. Or had we not had moorings independent of our anchors, which we had but just been able to pro- vide, we might not have been able to weigh our anchors in time to escape. And, lastly, had not a breeze sprung up just at the very minute we wanted it, we could not have got out and prevented the attack. As it was, we were able, by God's good and merciful care, to get out before they had time to enclose us. " The marks of disappointment and chagrin were but too evident in their manner, when they saw us safely passing beyond their reach. It was a merciful manifestation of God's care, and truly he answered our trustful expectations and de- pendence upon him. Had we been well armed, and come to open conflict with them, our chance of success had been poor ; but to resist thera and to do them harm, would have been as great an evil, and as deeply to be regretted by us, as our receiving bodily injury from them, and would have occasioned a double necessity for flight. I had made this very thing a special subject of prayer; L 162 NEW TRIALS, for the thought of injuring them, even in self-de- fence, is horror to m}'- feehngs, neither do I think I could lift up my head any more, were such a thing to happen. In our sudden flight we had to cut away the raft we had built as a substitute for our dingies, as well as the hawser by which we were moored. We were also in the exigency unprovided with water, having but a day's allowance or so with us, and without wood for our fire. The Captain thought our only course was to go again to Blome- field Harbour, the same place we had tried to reach before ; but on getting out into the Bay, it was clear we could not attempt it, the boats not yet being properly rigged, their scuttles not being on, and without bulwarks, — the spindles of both rudders being broken, and having no other where- with to replace them. We therefore determined to sail eastward, and shaped our course accordingly, under favor of a fine fresh breeze from the west. On making the south-east point of Picton Island, Ave sought to find a cove on the south side, but in vain ; and about noon, a dead calm coming on, we lay for some time anchored to the kelp. Here Captain Gardiner offered up a prayer to God, in gratitude for our merciful deliverance. Whilst we were lying here, the Captain expressed himself as being now entirely left to the directing hand of God, and that nothing remained for us, but to leave it to his good providence to direct us where next we should go. His original intention of fortifying NKW TKIALS, 163 DuLliaii Island, as he proposed in that case calling it, but which was afterwards, on the abandonment of the scheme, called Round Island, had been frus- trated ; as had our effort to take up our abode in Picton Island, and our several efforts to find a suitable spot on the north shore of the mainland, particularly our purpose to reach Blomefield Harbour, which the Captain thought so admirably suited to our wants. In fact, we had devised no- thing that had issued in success, and we seemed to be getting disastrously crippled ; being now without means altogether of getting ashore, unless unusual facihties should be afforded in the character of the harbour. New, Navarin, and Lennox Islands, remained for us to go to. Navarin had the disad- vantage of being peopled thickly with the natives, but the light breeze which after a time sprung up seemed to determine in its favor. We accordingly for some time pursued our course for Navarin Island; but about midnight, it fell calm, and con- tinued so till near three o'clock, when a breeze from the N.W. sprang up, which soon increased to a heavy gale, and now, wind and tide against us, and unable to beat through the channel, we bore up for Lennox Island. We ran before the wind, passing every creek and cove, in search of a suitable place for anchorage, and between nine and ten, on the Sunday morning, Jan. 5, arrived off* Lennox Harbour. We anchored during that day lii Uic harbour, and next morning Aveighcd for the 164 NEW TRIALS. purpose of grounding the boat. The wind being ahead, we, that is, the Pioneer, were just on the point of running in on the beach, when the wind taking her aback, she was driven among a reef of rocks, and escaped destruction as by a miracle. A sharp-pointed rock was just cleared by her, and her quarter was in imminent danger of being stove in on another mass of rock. She, however, ran on a little sandy bed, and escaped all the rocks most marvellously, so that afterwards, when the tide had ebbed, we were astounded to see how remark- able her escape had been. It was rather singular, that just at the moment I heard her bouncing against the ground, I was calling on the Lord in my morning prayer ; and though conscious some- thing was wrong from the hasty movements and anxious expressions overhead, yet I was assured of our safety, and altogether without any perturbed feelings. " The Sjjeediuell took the land where it was proposed she should, — the beach, happily a sandy one, affording very favorable means of getting ashore. There was nothing very inviting in the appearance of Lennox Harbour, or the island ; but a resting-place from storms, where we could lie some time undisturbed by the natives, and complete our boats, was very desirable, and we felt truly thankful Avhen we saw neither wigwam nor natives in the harbour. " Tlic dav after our arrival here, we found that NEW TKIALS. Iti5 we could not get either boat afloat, the tide on the previous morning being higher than usual, owing to the force of the tempest, and it being the second or third day after spring-tide. We must now wait till the next spring-tide, some nine or ten days, and if natives come, we can't flee from them. Bless the Lord, His hand has some secret but wise purpose here. We shall see by and by what it means. " Thursday, January 9. — Last night I remark- ably experienced the force of St Paul's words, Eph. iii. 16. I literally felt the might of Christ strength- ening me by his Spirit in the inner man. A powerful temptation to view our present circum- stances with apprehension Avas forced into my mind. I felt that it was a device of Satan, and I instantly fastened my hold on the Lord Jesus. Dehghtfully did I feel that, leaning on his power, I feared no evil ; and, with a sense of his presence to cheer and bless me, I had ' a heart for any fate.' Never did I experience so vividly that it was not I myself, but ' Christ in me,' that won the victory ; or rather, that it was faith which seized hold on Christ's right arm, and thus Avrouglit the triumph. I seemed at the time as if, in my complete nothing- ness, I had a power in my hand with which I could resist the devil, and stand firm against all his wiles. " Friday, January 10, Eleven p.m. — I bless and praise God that this day has been, I think, the happiest of my life. The fire of divine love has 166 NEW TKIALS. been burning on the mean altar of my heart, and the torch-hght of faith has been in full trim, so that I have only had to wave it to the right hand or left, in order to discern spiritual things in heavenly places. With it this poor heart of mine, that so long has been a dark cavern, wherein with mournful consciousness of sin and vileness I have withdrawn myself and fainted at the rebuke of the Lord, has now been lighted up, and shewn to me both swept and garnished, sprinkled as it is with the blood of Christ Jesus. And now it is made a temple-shrine for an indwelling God. And lo ! I have come out from my darkness, and am made light in the Lord, and, like Elijah standing on the mount before the Lord, I no longer pine in the sadness of gloom and disappointment, as not understanding 'the ways of God with men,' and his providential as well as his spiritual guidance of his children ; but awakening up from my reverie, and finishing my journey in the wilderness, I learn how great is the mystery of godliness, and how needful is the chastening of the Lord to his children, whilst as a Father he afflicts us for our profit, and humbles and abases us by the rod of his hand, and gives us to feel our poverty of spirit, our helplessness, and unworthiness, as a needful pre- paration to our beholding his glory, and hearing the still small A'oice of his love. To-day, the voice of tlic Lord has sounded in my ears, ' Come up hither;' yea, I have ascended up on high, and NEW TRIALS. 167 dwelt with God in love. Now, now, now, the Lord Jesus is in me the hope of eternal glory. " Saturday, Jan. 11. — Another day of joy and peace, and sweet communion with my Lord. During the evening had a very sweet season with the men in prayer, each one, after the good old Methodist fashion, praying. Bless God, it was a favored time. The Spirit of God was with us, and we sang together with heart and voice. Erwin is, thank God, laboring under deep conviction and penitential sorrow for sin. I have no doubt now of his soon being one with us. This is indeed a matter of praise to God." The present circumstances of the mission party were very critical. Their boats were aground, and there was no prospect of getting them afloat for a week. And to make the peril imminent, two of their number returned from a walk with the tidings that there were natives in the adjoining cove. But amidst these dangers and disasters a holy joy was filling the mind of Mr Williams, and rendering him forgetful of every temporal evil. The only member of the expedition of whom he stood in doubt was becoming " a brother in the kingdom and patience of Jesus Christ ; " and, under the teaching of the Comforter, his own spirit was surcharged with those sublime realisations which render the believer more than heroic. It is thus that he writes in his Antarctic Patmos : — " Monday, Jan. 13. — Last night, I was awak- 168 NEW TRIALS. ened by thoughts crowding into my mind. Tho eye of faith ran over the foundations of its hope, and discovered such glorious marks of everlasting stability. I saw a necessity for the atonement in the astonishing baseness to which our nature had fallen, and for the power and wisdom engaged in our restoration being nothing short of God — the eternal God manifest in the flesh. As clearly as I perceived that body and soul make one man, so .clearly and certainly did I see that God and man make one Christ, ' the Wonderful, the Counsellor, the Mighty God, the Prince of Peace.' Now my soul drank plentifully of the streams which make glad the city of our God. Every feature of the Divine sacrifice acquired additional value in my eyes. I bowed before the Lord, and humhled my soul before him who saith of himself, ' I am he that liveth and was dead, and, behold, I am alive for evermore, Amen ; and have the keys of hell and of death.' I felt tliat tlie inestimable price of my Saviour's blood was put into my hand. I could not tell nor count the riches I was worth ; yea, I could scarce grasp the thought that all this was mine. But God strengthened my faith again, and I realised the glorious truth that with such a price in my hand I could buy all heaven and all the pro- mises of God. I did apply the golden key to heaven's treasury, and with it opened the store- house of God's exceeding^ great and precious pro- mises. ,With glorious light streaming in my face, NEW TRIALS. 1G9 and my heart dancing for very joy, I saw such a meaning in the words, ' Grace reigns through righteousness unto eternal life, by Jesus Christ our Lord,' as filled me with wonder and ' great admira- tion.' Indeed, I was lost in wonder, love, and joy. Grace reigns ! Mercy is on the throne of Omni- potence ! Love is exalted, — to do its own will, to follow its own promptings, to give out of a full hand, to bless according to its boundless charity. Grace reigns ! Jesus is enthroned ! He who loved us and gave himself for us, has all power in heaven and on earth, and is ascended to give gifts unto men, and to dispense eternal bliss to his re- deemed people. What I saw and felt of Christ's love no tongue can tell. Heaven was begun below. How long I continued feasting on such a feast of fat things and on this ' wine of the kingdom ' well refined, I cannot tell. But some hours must have passed, for with the exertion of the spiritual and mental energies nature was all but exhausted. I was just on the point of dozing, when the imagery of Israel singing in the wilderness was presented to me : 'I will give her her vineyards from thence, and the valley of Achor for a door of hope : and she shall sing there, as in the days of her youth, and as in the day when she came up out of the land of Egypt.'* I recognised the promise, and, whilst praise swelled upon my lips, melody was * Hosea ii. 15. 170 NEW TRIALS. made ill my heart, and I felt the blessedness of an intimate communion with those who sing the song of Moses and the Lamb. " glorious hope of perfect love ! It lifts me up to things above ; , It bears on eagle wings ; It gives my ravish 'd soul a taste, And makes me for some moments feast With Jesus' priests and kings. " that I might at once go up ! No more on this side Jordan stop. But now the land possess : This moment end my legal years. Sorrows, and sins, and doubts, and fears, A howling wilderness ! " Now, my Joshua, bring me in. Cast out thy foes ; the inbred sin. The carnal mind, remove ; The purchase of thy death divide. And oh, with all the sanctified Give me a 'lot' of love ! "Yesterday I held a prayer-meeting in the morning with the men ; in the evening I read to them one of Mr Wesley's sermons. Dear Erwin is thirsting after the righteousness which is of God. I am delighted to see his humble and contrite spirit before the Lord. Bless God, he is not far from the kingdom of heaven. " Lennox Harbour, Saturday, January 18. — Come to-morrow, Sunday, we shall have been here just a fortnight. Many have been the mercies we have experienced since coming here. In our utterly helpless state, both boats aground, and the NEW TRIALS. 171 tide not reaching anything near to them, we day by day verified the gracious and merciful protec- tion of God's providence in keeping the Fuegians unapprised of our situation, and hindering their coming. We did not expect to get off before the return of the next spring-tide, which would be at least ten days ; and during this time, of course, there would be many possibilities of our situation being discovered. Jammed as the Pioneer Avas among the rocks, so that any one bent on doing us an injury could stand right above us; and to this add the weakness of our small party : and to human thinking, no position could present more occasion for apprehension and anxiety. But I believe not one of our party, felt either, or if any one of us did, there was at least no indication of it ; but our solicitude was hushed into repose by our hope in God. The boats were separated at some distance from each other, and we thus made two parties. It was to me a favorable occasion for pressing on the men the need they had, together with myself, of doubling our diligence to ' make our calling and election sure ;' and of uniting with them in fervent prayer unto God. The special presence of the Lord was felt on two occasions, whilst wo held prayer-meetings. I have great hope of dear Erwin, that God will make him a blessino' to us and to himself. It is this coming to the vital matters, and urging on the soul an immediate consideration of the truth as it is in Jesus ; pressing home the con- 172 NEW TKIALS. viction, at the same time carrying help to the stricken penitent, encouraging him to seek and helping him to find, according to God's promise, a present salvation, — it is this which makes such a material difference betwixt our Metliodistic mode of procedure and that of many other denominations of Christians. Many brands are thus plucked fi-om the burning, who, according to a more formal mode of administering the things of God, might never have been saved." Captain Gardiner and Mr Maidment were mem- bers of the Church of England, and, in the hope of its being eventually taken up by some Church Society, it was agreed that the Fuegian Mission should be conducted on Church of England princi- ples. This arrangement was with the entire assent of Mr Williams ; but it is not wonderful thcit re- miniscences of love-feasts and class-meetings should have mingled with his adopted churchmanship. And having in his three Cornish brethren so many live coals, it was all the easier to set the fire a-burn- ing. His faithfulness and fervor were, we trust, blessed to the salvation of the only member of the expedition who had not yet tasted that the Lord is gracious. In being thus instant in season, Mr Williams set an example to every Christian ; even as the personal urgency which Mr Wilhams justly claims as a distinction of AVesleyan Methodism, is a lesson to all the churciies. But, to return to Lennox Harbour, and our interrupted narrative : — • NEW TRIALS. 173 " On the day of our arrival, we saw two fine Fuegian dogs, which led us to expect that the natives were not far off. In the course of the week we saw the dogs again, but still no natives. In the neighbouring cove there was a well-built wigwam, and an enormous pile of mussel-shells, the work, I should think, of many generations. Here, too, not far from the wigwam, we found human remains — a skull and bones of the ex- tremities. In the cove on Sunday last, the 12th, we saw a canoe, and the smoke issuing from a wigwam, but when we looked the next day the natives were gone. We were well pleased to think they had not perceived us. " Day after day we waited patiently for the moon to enlarge her borders and approach to full, that we might by the spring-tide get our boats off. On Wednesday we dug away the sand from under the Speedwell's keel, and tried, by tackles and rollers under her, to get her nearer the sea, that we might make doubly sure of success. However, this was a vain effort, the weight of the iron decks rendering it utterly impracticable. We made greater efforts the next day, turning in a stream of fresh water and damming it up around her, and then using the lever and rollers as before ; but Avith no avail. The Captain thought that the moon was at full that day, and as the tide was still deficient, not more tluvn reaching to the stern of tlic Speedivell, which was nearest the sea, he con;>ii1cicd ihat we had little 174 NEW TRIALS. hope of getting off at all, unless a similar combina- tion of circumstances should occur, as was the cause of our driving so high upon the beach, viz., a gale bloAving from the N.N.E. and a high spring-tide. " Friday the 17th. — I awoke, and sweet was the comuumion of my soul with the Lord in prayer. I felt that I could trust God, yea, for all things. It was sufficient for me to know that my God ordered all events, and that he had all power to do whatever pleased him. Whilst thus hanging upon Him, it suddenly occurred whether I could believe that we should get out of our present difficulties. Faith unhesitatingly replied, Yes. But when ? when wilt thou get out of them ? When it shall please God. ' Couldst thou not believe God was able to 'send his water high enough to float the boats this very morning ? ' Yes, replied faith. I could believe it without a doubt. * But now ? ' said the same questioner within me. ' Now,' I thought, ' now ? ' It re- quired only the pause of a moment to answer, ' Yes, now. I do believe that God will send liis water this very morning, and float the boats, that we shall get off.' A wondrous power constrained me to believe it. It was no act of my natural, fleshly mind, but the Spirit of God gave light to see the Lord's Avill, and that therefore I might believe he could precisely do what he suggested to nic to believe. Scarce had the assent of my foitli been given, \Yhcn I licaid one of the men, who had NEW TRIALS. 175 just got up, and gone on deck, say, ' She is afloat ! ' From any natural ground I had not the shghtest suspicion, much less intimation, of the fact. It was not long afterwards that our boat {Pioneer), which had so dangerously entered among the rocks, but as wondrously escaped injury from them, was once more in open water, and safe. The Speedwell was also sufficiently surrounded with water to have enabled her to float, only that the rollers which were under her raised her considerably, and did not allow of her getting oif. This, however, she did the next day (Saturday), the rollers having been taken away. And thus once more we were out of our difficulties. " The natural cause of this singular rising of the tide, contrary to our expectations, was, that here the diff'erence between two tides is very remark- able, and it being so low the day before, we did not see any probability of there being a rise so much above the level of what it was only a tide or two before. " As it was impracticable for us to continue any longer in Lennox Harbour, it being too exposed for us to ride safely at anchor, our tackling being not strong enough, and we had had enough of beaching the boats, we were fain to seek new quarters. Some few days before, the Captain, with Mr Maidment, had walked across the country to explore for a fresh cove, and found one wliich promised to answer well, and to which he gave the 176 NKW TKIALS. name of Mercy Cove. Thither we now dh-ected our course. " DurniP- the first week of our residence at Lennox Harbour, with the exception of seeing the two dogs, whicli crossed the beach and barked at us on two different occasions, we had no reason to think natives were near us. On Tuesday the 14th, a party came to us. It consisted of two men, and Ave beheve one family. They were very quiet and docile, and one of the men very good-looking, with good feelings exhibited in his peaceful and pleasant countenance. It seemed quite unwarrantable and uncharitable to think evil of him, or to suspect he Avould do us harm. The child they brought with them was a very interesting little vivacious fellow. The father was most careful of him, and scarcely allowed us to handle him. He was well wrapped uj) in skins. All this was pleasing, and it is a pleasing trait — conspicuous in the Fuegian charac- ter, as far as we have yet been able to judge — their fondness for their children. As these were the only party that we saw whilst we were in the har- bour, we were very easy as long as they continued with us. We could not tell, hoAvever, but that they might go off for others. They did leave us on the Friday, but came back on the folloAving morning, and again in the course of the morning left us. " Late on Saturday afternoon, at high Avater, after experiencing fresh difficulties in getting our boats over the irregular sand-banks in our Avay, and NEW TRIALS, 177 grounding repeatedly, at length we found all right, and shaped our course for jMercy Cove, a few miles south of Lennox Harbour. When abreast of a cluster of islands adjacent to Luif Island, we saw a large body of natives on the beach to the left of us, and our old acquaintance of Lennox Harbour on the island to the right. They were en^ao-ed in fishino; or hunting seals, which were very plentiful near to the spot. They no sooner caught sight of us than, as usual, the uproar was great; shouting and gesticulating were the order of the day. Canoes immediately put off, and they paddled away with a speed which exceeded all our previous thoughts of their skill. We were now within a short distance of Mercy Cove ; but it was evident that if we proceeded, the whole of the large party, consisting of about five-and-twenty persons, would follow us, and we should be at their mercy. We therefore regretfully turned back upon our path, and cast anchor in Lennox Harbour. " Next morning, Sunday the 19th, just a fort- night after our first arrival in the harbour, the Captain thought it advisable to get under weigh again, with the intention of going to Cape Rees or Blomefield Harbour. His reason was, that he felt sure the natives would follow us, and we should not be able to spend a quiet Sabbath where wo were; and he thought it very desirable that wo should get off early, and arrive at our fresh desti- nation, wherever that should be, early enough to SI 178 NEW TRIALS. hold oirr religious services. We weighed anchor, therefore, soon after four o'clock ; with a wind at first light and favorable, and a promising morning. However, we had scarcely got into Oglander Bay, when the wind freshened and became dead ahead. We consequently beat about, still persisting in our intention. Whilst tacking, the two boats ran foul of each other, and carried away our bowsprit, doing some shght injuries also to the Speedwell. It was a time of great danger, and the wonder is that one or both of us had not our bows stove in, — the rudder of the Pioneer not being seaworthy. We therefore bore away for Lennox Harbour, and reached it again. As we entered the mouth of the harbour, the wind being right ahead, and our bow- sprit and jib having been carried away, we missed stays, and were obliged to run an anchor out in haste to keep ourselves off the rocks. Our posi- tion was a fresh instance of imminent peril. The wind now blew a hurricane ; and at first our an- chor dragged, and we were threatened with de- struction ; but the kelp did us good service, and we held on. Nearly the whole day the pitiless blasts smote us, and the foamino- water rao-ed around us, the dark clouds pouring on us their pelting hailstones and deluges of rain. It was really fearful. We were anything but sheltered, being nearly at the entrance of the harbour, and within thirty or forty feet of the rocks, against which had we dashed, avc must inevitably have been NEW TRIALS. 179 lust. But God ill Lis providential mercy was Avith us. We all felt, however, that we had done wrong in getting under weigh on the Sunday morning; and greatly did I feel relieved when I heard the Captain say that he also felt it wrong. ' Never,' said he, 'never have I commenced a voyage or a journey on the Sabbath before, and this shall be the last time.' " Reliance Cove, Wednesday, January 22. — On Monday following, the 20th, we again got under weigh for Blomefield Harbour, the day being fine. Our doing so was contrary to the impression I had derived from what had occurred on our former attempts. However, I gave no expression whatever to my thoughts ; and there were such great advan- tages to be reaped from the nature of the harbour, the serenity and completeness of the shelter, that it appeared very desirable we should go there. In our way to it we passed, about mid-day or some- what later, Cape Rees, where a snug cove seemed to invite us in, and the wind falling calm, we dropped almost into the opening of it. Nothing, however, would do but Blomefield ; so on we went as soon as the wind sprang up. " We arrived off Blomefield Harbour at half- past eight o'clock. As we got in sight of the harbour, we saw several fires a little to the eastward of Cape Despard, and we were soon apprised that there was a good party of the natives present. Three canoes put off, and it being calm at the time, 180 NEW TRIALS. tliey shortly came up with us. Amongst them was one of our Banner Cove acquaintances, and a mem- ber of the leao'ue oro-anised against us. There were some very fine men amongst them, who, one especially, we thought must belong to the main- land. " Our errand was now altoo-ether useless. It was clear we should have no rest nor quiet, and equally clear that the natives would soon accumu- late an overwhelming force, and overpower our small and feeble party. It was agreed that our only course was, late as it was now getting, to turn back upon our route, and make again for Banner Cove, as a temporary asylum. We kept under sail all night, it being for th^ most part of the time a calm, or but very little wind. Whilst we lay becalmed off the north-west end of Ficton Island, a canoe put off, in which we found the inti- mate associate of Jemmy, the great conccrter of tlio attacks upon us, and our most troublesome acquaintance. This circumstance at once apprised us that Banner Cove would be no shelter for us; for we were quite certain that the hue and cry would go forth, and that they Avould all be around us very soon. Thus being driven out of every asylum, and it being quite impracticable, in the crippled state of our boats, to beat about and dodge off and on from place to place, an oppor- tunity Avas sought to confer together as to the course we should, in the midst of such perplexities, NEW TRIALS. 181 pursue. The Captain offered up prayer, — a prayer breathed in simphcity and godly sincerity, ana in firm reliance upon the goodness and providential direction of our heavenly Father ; and afterwards it was decided, that, as the only alternative now left, we should pursue our course to the eastward, and if unable to find a convenient cove, that we should go on to Spaniard's Harbour. " The wind favoring us, we proceeded accord- ingly. At half-past eleven we found a cove under Cape St Pio, Avhere we might make at least a short stay, and get fresh supplies of water and wood. We accordingly anchored, and in the after- noon went ashore, and walked over the headland till we came in sight of Cape Jessie. In the course of our walk, which, going and returning, occupied five hours, we saw a guanaco acting as a scout, perched on the highest point of land, and watching us with a very narrow scrutiny. It did not allow us to get very near, but, with a leap and a bound in the air, gave the signal to the herd and started off. We saw the footprints of these animals very numerous, and also many Indian paths. The only other trace of natives was a wigwam near the beach. • " Thursday, Jan. 23. — Having got the rudder put to rights, and having obtained fresh supplies of wood and water, we left Reliance Cove, at a quarter to ten a.m., with a fair-weather sky. As wo passed one of X\\-^ lvi:!i-- i-' AMINE. the protection it was capable of affording, but upon God who made it a place of shelter during a short lialt by the way. Botli nights Ave remained there the wind rose and threatened to blow hard, which had it done, we certainly should have had our boat dashed in pieces against the steep shingle beach. A few hours only after we left, a strong breeze from the southward sprang up, Avhich would have blown right into the cove, and the swell of the ocean here is quite terrible. It is remark- able also, that the day of our leaving Earnest Cove, in Spaniard Harbour, the wind blew strong in from the eastward, and consequently, right into the cove, — the only time of its blowing strong from that quarter since our arrival there. It might have damaged our remaining boat, and most cer- tainly, as it was full moon, and consequently spring tide, we should have been dislod<>-cd both from the cavern and our stranded boat. Thus how clearly has God manifested his providential care over us. how good is the Lord, and how greatly* to be praised ! Blessed be his name for ever ! Our passage from lieliance Cove to-day has been very trying. The weather has been boiste- rous, strong squalls, ' williwaws,' wdth hail and snow ; the sea consequently has been very rough, and our cockle-shell of a boat, with its dispropor- tioned deck-load, has not been free from danger of a sudden capsize. However, here we are, nearly at the entrance of Biinner Cove once more, the SICKNESS AND FAMINE. 209 only place where we poor strolling outcasts can find a secure anchorage ground. It is now nearly nine o'clock, and a dark and cheerless night. Thank God, we have escaped all the dangers of the day, and doubtless, God willing, shall escape the perils of the night. I have been very weak and poorly all the day, and whilst cooped up in bed, swinging under the iron canopy of our cribbed and scanty cabin, and hearing the waters dash over, yes, and sometimes tasting a little of them, even inside; whilst thus situated, roUing and rocking about, trying to escape from the gathering tempest, and hastening our way to a refuge, yet knowing not whither we should go, nor where our resting-place would be, my position was not calculated to fasci- nate the eye. Very weak have I felt myself, and Satan has urged his fierce assaults upon me. I had not strength to read, nor indeed to pray. Joy I could not summon to my heart, and I felt greatly wanting in love and in thankfulness and praise. But what could I do ? I strove to pray ; yea, I told the Lord I loved him with all my heart, and I blessed his holy name : yet words came not to my thoughts, and thoughts came not to my desires. I called, and all was silent : no voice responded. I did not discern the meaning of this at the time. I did not see that God had left me to a naked faith, and that it was to pass through a fiery ordeal in contending with all my trials and temptations. I saw danger on every side, but I feared it not. o 210 SICK^EfcS AISU FAMINE. Temptation pointed to death from the floods even as I was, cabined up in this small smoking place ; then to death as likely to be the issue of my pre- sent disease, sea-scurvy, and no adequate means, no remedy at hand ; and then to death as inflicted by the jagged war-spear of the Fuegian, or his deadly sling. But faith was more than conqueror, through Him that loved me and gave himself for me. It could and did answer, that if God willed either to take place, I desired nothing but his will, and in that case any death would be a welcome summons to a glorious immortality. " After much conflict of this kind, I took up my Bible to try to read it ; but I felt as though it would be impossible to summon up application suffi- . cient for this delightful task, and I turned listlessly over the page, till my attention was powerfully arrested by these words of St Peter, ' But the God of all grace, who hath called us unto his eternal glory by Christ Jesus, after that ye liave suff'ered a while, make you perfect, stablish, strengthen, settle you.' I at once saw the Lord, and heard the voice of my God, and great was the consolation imparted to me thus by Christ Jesus. ' Bless the Lord, O my soul, and all that is within me, bless his holy name.' Now can I, and now do I, with all sweetness and assurance of hope, with peace and joy, leave myself in the hand of the Lord that he may do with me whatsoever seemeth him good, content in knov*"ing that whatever be the way he takes with .SICKNESS AND FAMINE. 211 me, I shall see his gTcat, yea his wonderful salva- tion, and give glory to his excellent name for ever. " Monday, March 24. — At Banner Cove again ; and with the mercy and goodness of God very manifest both in bringing us here at this time, and in the providential arrangement of circumstances favorable to our safely and peaceably remaining here. May I never forget thy benefits, my God, but give thee endless praise ! " It "was nearly three o'clock on Sunday morn- ing, that we cast anchor once more off our old and much to be remembered Station Hill, near to which we had built our Avigwam, and dug a gar- den, and where our supplies of water were got from ; and glad were all hands to find a place of rest after their fatiguing and harassing day's work. On glancing their eyes in the direction of our old quarters, the men discovered a light from a fire, kindled, they thought, in our wigwam. We there- fore concluded that it had been taken possession of, and was now inhabited by the natives. In the morning, however, it Avas discovered that a new wio-wam had been built durino- our absence, near our OAvn, and ocular demonstration was soon afford- ed, as also by the well known vociferations ad- dressed to the ears, that a large party of natives was established here. We now of course expected to behold the face of Jemniv, and his redoubtable associates, our late mortal foes, and that we should have a repetition of the trials which we had for- 212 SICKNESS AND FAMINE. luerly encountered liere. We were therefore agreeably surprised, when they came off to us, to find that they were all entire strangers. The party numbered fourteen or fifteen, five men and five women, the rest children. They appeared rather a more squalid lot than our former com- panions, and not possessed of the same energy of character. Should their number not be increased by the addition of others, or of our old acquaint- ances, we shall be able to stay here in comfort and in peace. All things are in God's hand, and he will temper the wind to his shorn lambs. I doubt it not. His mercy is over all his works, and he loves us with a Father's tender love and gentle compassion. He will do all things well for us ; of this I am deeply assured. " Yesterday (Sunday) the day was very stormy, the equinoctial gales blowing most furiously, and from the southward, so that had we been at Reliance Harbour we must have perished, or had we been at sea our danger would have been great. Snow fell with rain, and the temj)erature was very low. Being in bed, I did not feel it, as happily our quarters are warm enough when closed up. I now am wholly confined to my bed, not daring to venture up, fearing that the exertion of rising would prosti'ate me too much. The Lord does make all my bed in my sickness ; the angel of his presence overshadowing my soul, and hanging about me with such irradiations of glorious light, SICKNESS AND FAMINE. 21 o — the light of God's love,— that I am happy, very happy, and not a moment sits wearily upon me. Sweet is the presence of Jesus, and oh! I am happy in his love. " After the trials I encountered on Saturday, and our knocking about was over, the sleep that followed was, I think, the most refreshing that I ever enjoyed ; not so much because it was a balmy restorative to my poor debilitated body, but because if ever the whisperings of Almighty love spoke tranquillity to the soul of man, and breathed a continued flow of divine consolation upon his heart, I felt them that night. I was, so to speak, talking with the Lord, and his grace supplied mo with such rich treasure of wisdom in the discourse, and his unction so made the purport of my thoughts to diffuse a precious odor and a rich influence around me, that I could very well have thought I was in Paradise. I might have thought so, but that the subject-matter of my communings with the Lord, was the services, the joyful, heart- felt services, I should render unto him in this my lifetime, and period of sojourn here on earth. My heart seemed to tell the Lord how willingly, how gladly, my poor all should be given unto him, to spend and be spent for him alone ; and how I should triumph with heavenly delight, whilst glory- ing ,that, by the power of his grace, I was able to win souls to Christ. And whilst such were my tlioughts, the Lord seemed to accept me in all my 214 SICKNESS AND FAMINE. proffered service, and to pour upon me the bless- ings of his grace, so that he was unto mo as the dew unto IsraeL Communion, heaven]}^ and blessed! Earnest of joys to come, and foretaste of that inheritance undefiled and that fadeth not away, where I shall see him face to face, yea, behold him as he is, not even the transparent veil of a divine faith being betwixt him and me ! And how transcendently glorious is the further assur- ance, that when we do see him as he is, we shall be like him, j^artakers of his divine nature, and sharers of his glorious image. O God, my Lord, for ever be thy name adored. " To-day we hope to recover the provisions Avhich we stowed away when we were here before. Amongst these is a barrel of pork, purchased of the Ocean Queen; this will be of great service to our party, and will, 1 trust, with God's blessing, strengthen them greatly. Our preserved meat is now nearly out, our store of spirits nearly exhausted, and when these are ended, as in a week or two they will be, then with the prophet Habak- kuk I will exclaim, as I know by grace I shall be able to do, ' Although the fig-tree shall not blossom, neither shall fruit be- in the vines ; the labor of the olive shall fail, and the fields shall yield no meat ; the flock shall be cut off from the fold, and there shall be no herd in the stalls : yet I will rejoice in the Lord, I will joy in the God of my salvation.' sicaNi^ss axd famine. 21o '' I have been greatly gratified and aifected by pleasing evidence that the work of grace is deepened in my brethren's minds. This, not in one, but I think in all. The trials and dangers we have been subject to, have, by the sanctifying grace of God, had a gracious influence. Yesterday and Saturday I was quite affected by the kindness of the Captain, and his humble and gentle deport- ment ; his prayer, too, yesterday, was an outpour- ing of his soul before God, in so unaffected and sincere a manner, with such unqualified expressions of resignation to the will, and humble trust in the mercy, of God, that it did make me own with joy, that here is a child of God addressing the Father of all mercies. This morning, too, the prayer of Mr Maidment was in like manner a sincere breath- ing out of the soul in humble supplication and con- fident trust in God. Oh ! I am glad and rejoice in the Lord to see mv brethren thus meek and trustful. " Banner Cove, Wednesday, March 26. — Yester- day the party of natives left the harbour, with what intent we of course are ignorant. In order to be in as great a state of preparedness as possible, and to omit no way of affording intelli- gence to the vessel that should come to our relief, provided we were forced to leave this part again, the place appointed for her coming to, the Captain has enclosed notices in bottles, and sunk them in vai^ions places, with boards erected above them, 216 SICKNESS AXD FAMINE, "^ and letters painted thereon, ' Look underneath.' A copy of these notices is as follows : — " ' The natives are hostile. We are obliged to move from place to place. If not in Banner Cove, we shall be near Cape Rees or Cape James, on the N.E. side of Navarin Island ; if not there, in Spaniard Harbour, which is on the main island, not far from Cape Kinnaird. We have sickness on board, om* supplies are nearly out, and if not soon relieved we shall be starved. We do not intend to go to Staten Island, but, if unable to remain at the two places indicated above, to run for Spaniard Harbour, and stay there in a cove, on the western side, until some vessel comes to our assistance. (Signed) Allen F. Gardiner, Superintendent of the Mission. Banner Cove, March 26, 1851, WednesrJai/' " We yesterday got back our provisions which had been deposited at Tent Cove, consisting of three barrels of biscuits, and the barrel of pork. How thankful ought we to be that they had never been discovered by the natives ! The goats on Garden Island they have disappointed us of, having destroyed them all. " Yesterday the sun being out for a little while, I got outside my prison-house, and how greatly did I feel the invigorating effect of the sight of this interesting spot, the scenery quite beautiful ! To- SICKNESS AND FAMINE. 217 day, the weather being cold, I could not venture out of bed. " Banner Cove, March 27. — To-day a fresh party of natives have made their appearance, to our discomfort. It was blowing very hard at the time tliey came in, which we could ovAy account for on the supposition that they had received in- telligence of our arrival from the party which left on Tuesday, as in general they are so cautious and indisposed to move about in rough weather. Amongst them were some of our old acquaint- ance, and doubtless they are but the harbingers of the whole of our evil-disposed former associ- ates. They have been very boisterous and pre- suming, and have displayed the same daring as before. Whilst all our party were on deck, except- ing Badcock and myself, they cut the rope attached to our raft, and but for the alertness of our men, would have had it adrift. We expect that to-mor- row others will arrive, and we all fear that it is impracticable for us to stay here. Should the weather therefore permit, the Captain proposes to start the first thing in the morning for Spaniard Harbour again, the only place where there is rest for the soles of our feet. And there we shall remain, as far as we can tel!, till a vessel comes to our relief. In the meantime, not a being on the eartli will have any knowledge of the place where we arc; but God knows, and how much better to be known, and to know we are seen, of God, than 218 SICKNESS AND FAMINE. ^ to have the eyes of the whole world resting upon us! I have been more than once struck with the thought that our present separation from the haunts and abodes of all we have ever known, is a striking illustration of that separation which death makes. We are, as it were, dead to our dear friends, yet we are living. We have tlie active faculties of the soul still at work, incessantly bring- ing our dear ones to our remembrance : but we are no longer living amongst them, identified in all our interests with them. But we are living in God and to God. He is our being and end, and with him alone we are identified now through the exceeding riches of the grace abounding unto us in Christ Jesus. Yet we are associated in love with all our earthly friends more sweetly, more firmly, more endearingly than ever. May God bless them all, is my fervent prayer. " Friday, March 28. — Left Banner Cove this morning at half-past four o'clock. The natives as usual had retired to their wigwam soon after sun- set; but they were up and stirring as early as one o'clock. Of course we had kept a watch. From one o'clock until the hour of our departure they were very busily employed. Their early rising confirmed our suspicion that they expected to be joined by others, and their incessant hammering on the trunks of trees, appeared to be a sort of signal as to their whereabouts. We never knew the natives to be moving about until tlireo or four, SICKNKSS AND FAMINE. 211) even in summer when it was quite light ; but, set- ting aside these signs of concerted vigilance on their part, we were morally certain that there would be a large muster of them in the course of the day. " Sjianiard Harbour, March 29, Saturday afternoon. — We are now just sighting Earnest Cove, after being becalmed in the entrance of the Harbour the most part of the day. We had what the sailors call a fine start of wind, blowing from the northward and westward, and which brought us into the troubled water of Slogget Bay soon after nightfall, and which freshening up and blow- ing in sudden and violent blasts, we were again in danger of capsizing. As I lay in bed, I heard the Captain say, 'It is a wonder we were not cap- sized.' At first, it was proposed to lie-to for the night in the bay, and not to encounter the tide races which we should meet in rounding the cape. However, we pursued our. way without stoppage, groping along in the dark, and tumbling over the billows. " Earnest Cove, Tuesday, A^jril 1. — The morn- ing being fine, and the sun shining quite warm, I ventured to rise, and got out into the stern-sheets ; but I soon became so sensible of my weakness, my limbs almost failing me, and faintness and pains coming on, that I hastened back to my peaceful bed, where alone I can obtain any mitigation to the distresses of ray body. Sometimes I almost 220 SICKNESS AND FAMINE. forget that anything is the matter with me, and would almost persuade myself that if I were u-p I should still feel the same ; but, alas ! the trial soou shews how slight is the ground of my expectation. But as I, day by day, and night by night, lie hero, what a world, unknown to the Avorld, do I live in ! God is indeed about my bed, and spies out all my ways, and his countenance is over me for good. How blessed is the thought ! The Lord is teaching me, and counselling my heart with his hidden •wisdom, and making known his secret unto mo ; yea, he is revealing unto my soul the deep things of God, and giving me spiritual understanding in the knowledge of that which hath been hidden from the foundation of the world. The glory and everlasting praise be to my God, through Jesus Christ my Lord. " Wednesday Evening, eight o'clock, Aj'^ril 9. — • To-day we have liad most boisterous weather, tlie sea and the waves roaring. Happily we are well sheltered, so as not to be exposed to any danger, at least we trust not ; yet the surf on the shore is prodigious in volume, and the straining jerk on our hawser is somewhat alarming at times. We are, however, in God's hands. The cold has been very severe to-day, and this, together with the raging of the tempest, the gloom of a sunless day, and the heavy fall of hail and rain, has rendered our posi- tion somewhat cheerless. Badcock and I are com- panions in affliction. We get no better, but worse SICKNESS AND FAMINE. 221 — the disease slowly progressing. However, poor John has not vet suffered anvthino- like the same amount of prostration as myself. The exhaustion occasioned by my previous illness accounts for the difference. Friday, Saturday, and Sunday last were rather distressing da^^s. The oppression from my bodily disorder was very great, and so incapa- ble of all exertion did I feel, that I could not apply my mind to reading. On Sunday night I made it an especial matter of prayer, that God would so strengthen my mind that I might be able to exer- cise it in reading ; and my prayer was answered, for with great delight I spent nearly the whole of the next day on Bonar's Commentary on Leviticus, and the Bible in conjunction therewith. " Our boat is in some respects unsuitable. If we draw up the door at the entrance to our berth, we then exclude all air, as there is no other opening, not even for ventilation. But on the other hand, if we have it open, then the wind and the cold night air come in, and render clothing almost ineffectual for keeping us warm. So I felt it last night, and upon previous occasions, — a cold, chilly sensation pervading my back. If to obviate this, we close tiie door altogether, the vapor from our breaths accumulates on the iron roof of our deck, only a few inches higher than our pillows, and drops over us and trickles down on our beds in such quantities that we find it very troublesome. Add to this the muddled state of our apartments, 222 SICKNESS AND FAMINE. from our not being able to dispose things comfort- ably about us, not having now for several days been able so much as to get out of bed to have it made. Add also that our appetites rather fail in attacking the boiled pork, which at first was a great treat, and that the preserved meat is fast hastening to an end, as is also our supply of spirits.* Add to this that our kind and attentive nurse, Bryant, a most aifectionate and sympathis- ing attendant, is himself shewing symptoms of the disease. Add to this the uncertainty as to when a vessel may come to our relief, and the possibility that she may not see and observe our notices put up on various parts of Banner Cove, and so not come at all ; and you may ask if we have not some ground of apprehension concerning our supplies and well-being. I can deliberately answer, that my mind is free from such apprehension; and although I have felt so weak that I could take comfort in scarcely anything, nor could even coorco my mind into an active contemplation of God's goodness so as to give and feel praise to Him, yet I do know and am confident * the Lord will provide,' and that we shall want no good thing, nor suffer more than ^y& can bear, neither shall evil betide us. The Lord is with us, and will not fail us in our need ; but our extremity will be his opportunity. " Earnest Cove, Saturday, April 12. — Last night we had the most fearful storm we have encountered at all. It commenced about nine or SICKNESS AMJ FAMINE. 223 ten o'clock, and continued to rage throughout the night. Before witnessing it, we had no just con- ception of what a south-west gale in these latitudes is. It reminded me of the blast from the iron mouth of the bellows at a smelting furnace ; or Avhat might be supposed would be the rush and violence of a furious storm driving through a tunnel. During the whole period the roar and wail of the tempest around us and in the distance were appalhng. The bands of violence seemed let loose, and we could not but feel that the time was one of peril and alarm. Sheltered as we were, by being all but land-locked, we found that we were not out of reach of its direct assault, when gather- ing its forces from every quarter, its tremendous gusts -were every now and then aimed straight at our devoted heads. The rush, and fury, and force of its beating point-blank upon us were tremendous. Our poor boat trembled and quivered, and the hawser whereby it was made fast to the shore became as 'taught' as it could be; but still time after time it lifted its head up uninjured. The night was dark, and very wet, and much hail fell. We ascertained that the Captain, Mr Maidment, and Pearce, who slept ashore, were up, and Avith- drawn to the cavern, and we rightly conjectured that they were in great and painful anxiety on our account. They and the men on board were greatly afraid that the hawser, which was but a small one, would give wav, ;uv1 in that case our anchoi- might 224 SICKNESS AND FAMINE. drag, and so we should be driven out to sea or dashed upon the rocks. Not one of our party slept the whole night, but with anxious expectation looked out for the coining day. When the morn- ing came, one proof was afforded us of the fury of the gale. A pair of trowsers and a woollen jersey had been made fast to the mast to dry, tied with a rope ; the legs of one, and the body of the other, were torn right off, leaving the waist of the former and the arms of the other remaining. " Cook's River, Monday, April 14. — In conse- quence of our late severe weather, and the dangers to which we were exposed, the Captain thought it advisable to take the first opportunity for removing to Cook's River, where storms can in no way endanger us. We are accordingly come here this afternoon. The opening is narrow indeed, and it is defended from the sea by a shifting bar, over which the sea roars with a vain effort to disquiet the peaceful waters inside. This river, or rivulet rather, expands into a small lake, which trends along the head of the bay, and then winds about in many serpentine foldings, until it loses itself in a small stream. To the bar at the entrance, and to one a little further to the seaward, the ducks, gulls, divers, and shags, often resort in large numbers. The evening being fine, I got up to have a look around me, and never did I feel more interested in any scene, unless I may except the sight of Banner Cove under similar circumstances. On both occa- SICKNESS AND FAMINE. 225 sions the deep verdure mingling with the many shades of the now fading beech, with the grand and wild mountain scenery stretching along the side of the Bay, and the forest- covered hills overhanging us to the south, and, above all, the bright beams of a fiery and storm-portending sun, going down beyond the furthest range of highlands in the deep background, leaving broad tracks of light betwixt the clouds of indigo and purple, — all had a vivid and strong effect upon my feelings, and greatly cheered me. Seeing the sunset once more, for it is long since I beheld it, my soul aspired towards the plains of light, and I could conceive some such a portal as yon bright scene, only brighter, brighter far, and cloudless, opened into the paradise of our God. Thither my happy spirit bent its way upon the wings of hope, faith pointing out the pathway to the golden gate, and love desiring and hastening on the soul to win so priceless an inheritance among the saints in light. " Good Friday, April 18. — Since writing the above, we have had gales and furious storms in almost constant succession, the weather being severely cold, with a considerable fall of snow, and with drepo'y hail-storms and sleet. I have fre- quently lifted my head from my pillow to look out on the cold and cloudy and wintry scenes around tae. My bed-head being close to the door, by just lifting myself up, I could see the mountains to the south of us, and their new vesture of driven snow 226 SICKNESS AND FAMINE. The first sight of this, the fall being great during tlie night of the 15th, was very full of pleasure to me. Dreary and desolate as was the scene, I could yet feel pleasure in the grandeur and magnificence of its very wildness. The aspect of nature was all around changed ; and with the winds howling around, the sea roarino- over the sand-bank close by, the air filled everywhere with falling snow, and with that peculiar sense of lonesome isolation which a bleak winter scene conjures up in the mind, sug- gesting our need of relative and social connexions, — there was still a sense of the sublime truly pleasur- able. " To-day, the weather having abated its violence, I availed myself of the afternoon sunshine to get up for a short time. I could scarcely support myself, and had to take freely of spirits to enable me to keep up a little while ; but the enjoyment of looking around me is so great, that I mind not a little trouble to accomplish it. Poor John [Bad- cock], alas ! cannot do this much, and is decidedly getting worse than myself, the disease making more progress with him than with me ; yet we fare m all respects alike, and share the same comforts, and use the same means, and certainly I was much Averse than he at the beginning. His legs are swollen and discolored, his gums get very bad, his loss of blood is frequent, and the prostration of his strength is daily more marked. I am truly aifected by observing this; but I keep him from SICKNKSS AND FAMINE. 227 knowing my suspicions, and as I treat my own case very lightly, and, by the grace of God, am ever able to keep a cheerful countenance, I succeed in preserving his mind from the alarm and despond- ency so peculiar to this disease, and which so greatly adds to its distress. Poor and weak though we are, our abode is a very Bethel to our souls, and God we feel and know is here. John often smiles through a tear that flow^s from a heart full of a sense of God's love ; and though both of us subject to many infirmities, and sensible of our numberless shortcomings, yet moments so speed by, many of them winged with aspirations after God, that Ave ourselves forget all our bodily com- plaints, until reminded of them by exhaustion. " As the weather gets colder, we naturally enough wish to hasten the period of the vessel's arrival that shall bring us succour, and carry us hence. " During the day, whilst storms are raging especially, we are under the necessity of shutting out the light, in order to exclude the cold ; and at other times our place is filled with the smoke which is blown in from the stove close to us in the stern- sheets. At low water too, now tliat we are in Cook's River, our boat heels over so that John is at one time deep down on the Ice-side, at another time I ; and then one of us gets all or the most part of the water accumulating iVom condensation on the iron roof, which drij)s on our head and back, or snturntos our pillows and bed-clothes, 228 SICKNESS AND FAMINE. should they also unhappily gravitate leeward. We, however, look these inconveniences well in the face, and by patience disarm them of half their unpleasantness, — a good lesson acquired in the school of experience, with the grace of God for our helper and teacher. " To-day the first of our supphes, tapioca, which we have depended much upon, having had of it for our breakfast daily, has failed us ; our only remaining substitute being rice. Somewhat more serious than this, is the fact, that after having exhausted our store of brandy and of rum, we are now drawing upon our last bottle of gin ; and as it grows less and less, whilst we consume it by another and another draught, necessary to stimulate our debilitated bodies and recover us from our severe fits of exhaustion, we look at each other and say, ' The sooner gone, the sooner the ship must come ! ' This sentiment the Captain also gave utterance to to-day, and indeed it is our general feeling, belief, and hope, that God will permit our means to fail us, and just then his mercy will shine forth in the op- portune and gracious deliverance which he shall send us. " The Captain, who happily continues well, but unaccompanied by Mr Maidment, who is suffer- inof from cold, came and held service with us. The sermon he read was out of a volume by the Rev. J. Harington Evans, on the seventeenth SICKNESS AND FAMliNE. 229 chapter of John. It was a delightful and most ap- propriate discourse, — the subject being, ' Finished Work.' " Monday, April 21. — To-day the boat was moored in-shore, close to the bank, so that we can step from the deck on the land ; and I felt greatly tempted to try once more to put my foot ashore. I therefore got up, and with the assist- ance of Bryant, stepped on the green turf. But to my surprise I found that I had no power over my limbs, and the attempt at progression was almost ludicrous ; for my legs went sideways rather than forward, and I must have fallen had I not been supported by Bryant. Although I have frequent distressing bodily prostration, with great languor, I praise God that only on one occasion has my mind greatly participated. Some- times so powerless as to be unable for reading or much thought, I have felt this state to be merely passive, and without any positive gloom or real depression of spirits. " This night we have a pretty hard frost, which covers the roof above my head with its hoary frost-work. It pinches me much, my back espe- cially, clothes being insufficient to keep me warm. " Thursday, May 1. — The violence and in- clemency of a Fuegian winter have been now for some time felt by us. We have had the snow fixlling day by day, covering all around with its white mantle, and wijh this a daily succession 230 SIOKNKSS AND FAMINE. of fearful storms of wind. In our present position we are more than ever exposed to the raging of the blast and the penetrating of the cold, as to the westward we are open to the plains or valleys Avhich stretch beneath the mountains. At times wo greatly feel the cold, being obhged to remain shut up in the darkness of our berth by day as well as by night, save when relieved by the light of our candle. Occasionally, however, we get an interval of moderate weather, and the effect of it is very cheering to us all. Our provisions are fast consuming away : our ' sick diet,' in particular, is likely to come to an end still more speedily ; the preserved meat and pork being now nearly finished, and our stock of spirits, having had no wine, having been for some days exhausted. We have tried in vain to catch fish in the net and with a line. None are to be seen, and although ducks and wild fowl are not scarce around us, we have no means of getting at them. " On Friday the Captain and Mr Maidment succeeded in catching a fox, or rather in killing him. He had frequently paid them visits during the night, entering the cavern whilst they were in bed in the boat, and making free with whatever came to hand. He had carried off pieces of pork, shoes, and even books ; and to the great mortifica- tion of Mr Maidment, his Bible was among the latter, which being bound in morocco, was doubtless a SICKNESS AND FAMINE. 231 booty to the hungry beast. They therefore laid a bait for him, a piece of pork attached by a cord to the trigger of a loaded gun, so placed that ^dien he took the bait he should fire the gun. He fired it ofi" once, but escaped unhurt ; twice the cap went off, but the powder did not take fire. At last, he received the whole discharge in his breast. In his stomach Avere found feathers, fish, and mice. He was a fine animal, with a splendid brush. Albeit the odium attached to a fox, our party on shore have already so far overcome any such fastidious- ness, that this morning they made a hearty break- fiist of his ' pluck.' His quarters are cut up and kept in reserve. This is not the first extraordin- ary bonne houclie our worthy caterer has put upon the spit, or made into soup for us. The penguin and shag, and the equally fishy-tasted duck, have all contributed their quota. The penguin was caught on shore, without attempting to get away, more than by a backward movement, as Mr jMaidment laid hold on him. The shag was asleep on a fallen tree, lying on the beach, so that Mr M. caught it also by hand. " The most formidable drawback of all, is the dampness of the boat. Althougli I have my Mackintosh spread over my bed, the water from the roof lodges in pools upon it, and has at length saturated the counterpane under it. The side of our beds, and all our clothes there, as well as at the head and the foot, are all wringing wet. One 232 SICKNESS AND FAMINE. iiiglit I felt a deadly chill from the damp, from which for hours I could get no relief, and having failed of our supply of spirits, I had a great pain the whole night, which continued very severe the two following days. Whilst it lasted I was almost tempted to think I could not recover; the pro- stration of death seemed upon me. " Wednesday/, May 7. — To-day we have been just eight months from the time of our leaving Liverpool. The weather is now confirmed in its winterly severity, and we have had pretty hard frosts, sufficient to freeze large portions of the river in which we are lying, and which drifts past us at each ebb tide. " This evening, having Pearce in addition to our company, I felt in prayer much softening and ten- derness of heart, with longing after the perfect love of God. Pearce read Mr Wesley's sermon on Repentance in Believers, and its plain, simple ex- hortations did me much good. Since then I have been able to exercise such a measure of faith in Christ as I had not felt before, and to realise bless- ings far higher. I could say that I did — I can say that I do love God with a love I had no conception of, with a love that actuates every faculty of my whole soul ; and the love of God in Christ I feel beyond all expression. This much I venture in much weak- ness to write ; whether I shall bo able to add much more to this journal is known only to God. But this I may say, I have not had at any time a dis- SICKNESS AND FAMINE. 233 quieting thouglit, or a mistrusting fear as to the result. I have felt, Come life, come death, God's •will would be my choice. I have not had any doubts as to a vessel coming to our help, I have, for the most part, believed God would restore me to health, and 1 have thought, in accordance with a singular impression made on my mind, that my course Avould be directed back again to my native country. This I have believed — yet I cannot say that God luill not take me hence, by taking me sooner than I expected to heaven and glory. His will be done — his blessed will be done : I have no longer a choice, when I know his holy vrill. My poor frail body is now very attenuated, and my sinking, depressed feelings are very great at times. But my mind scarcely feels depression, and cer- tainly no depression except in mourning over my unfaithfulness and shortcomings. " Should anything prevent my ever adding to this, let all my beloved ones at home rest assured that I was happy, beyond all expression, the night I wrote these line's, and would not have changed situations Avith any man living. Let them also be assured, that my hopes were full and blooming with immortality ; tliat heaven, and love, and Christ, which mean one and the same divine thing, were in my heart ; that the hope of glory, the hope laid up for me in heaven, filled my whole heart with joy and gladness, and that to me to live is Christ, to die is gain. I am in a strait betwixt two, to abide 234 SICKNliiS AND FAMINE. in the body, or to depart and be with Christ, which is far better. Let them know that I loved them, and prayed ybr every one of them. God bless them all. " Tuesday, May 20. — I am now, as it were, suspended by a slender thread betwixt life and death. Three davs following I have had attacks, which seemed to threaten a termination in dissolu- tion. But God is with me. I am happy in the love of Christ. I could not choose, were it left to me, whether to die or to live. I feel the conviction in my mind still strong that I shall recover ; but I am got so near to heaven, by the fiiUing into ruin- ous decay of this earthly house of my tabernacle, that another shake, and there seems reason to ex- pect that my soul will be numbered with the departed who are gone to glory. This I can say, that no other thought or desire has crossed my mind, as a reason for the prolongation of my earthly existence, but that it might thereby please my Lord to make me an instrument of winning souls to him, " Friday, May 23. — To-day I have felt much sinking, and have felt a desire to depart and bo with Christ. Last night I felt much for the situation of my companions, and prayed to God with great fervor in their behalf, entreating the Lord to send relief to them, and if it were his will, that I should see that succour come, and then, if it pleased him, be taken hence. I excluded myself from any par- SICKNESS AND FAMINE. 2o5 licipalion of benefit to be derived from a vessel's coming, lest I might seem to fall into impatience, or displciy aught else than absolute resignation to God's holy will concerning myself. But I did feel I might intercede for others, and I sought God's blessing on their bodies and souls. This evening I have been so allured by the love of Jesus, that I have not been able to refrain from asking the Lord to permit me to come to himself. Nothing on earth could hold back my wishes from transporting me at once into his presence. I felt it could be no sin to desire thus eagerly for heaven. Its hght, its atmosphere, its peace, its joys, yea, and its holiness, were around my soul, and earth to my eyes seemed a dreary place. But am I ready to go ? yes ; Jesus has made me ready. I could not be more ready than he can make me, were I to live a century longer. His blood, his precious blood, I bear upon my heart; his righteousness declared of God, 1 hold for my title-deed. " Tuesday, ay 27. — To-day I have perceived new symptoms, which shew the inroads of the disease upon my system, and strongly point out a fatal termination. Can I be in any way disap- pointed at this, instead of a life of much service and glory to God? No, not for a moment; for God's glory can only be enhanced by fulfilling the counsels of his own will ; and to suffer his blessed will, as much glorifies my God as to do it. I am not disappointed ; rather do I rejoice greatly, that 236 SICKNESS AND FAJMINE. now it seems manifestly the design of God to take me hence. I have time after time felt an inex- pressible desire to be with Christ, and to-day I have been ravished with his love. Should this then be the will of God, then, my beloved ones, weep not for me. Let no mourning thought possess your hearts, nor sigh of sadness once escape your lips. Say rejoicingly, How good was the Lord! how greatly Avas he blessed of God, and he is gone to be with Jesus ! There you, my beloved ones, — you, my mother, you, my sisters, may all of you — oh yes, you will shortly meet me, — will you not ?- The love of Christ fills my heart ; but with this love which loves him supremely, I love you as I never did before. But heaven is at hand. It is nigh to my soul. It is my home. I shall look for you there. There we shall meet to part no more. Its glories invite me. Its hohness, its purity, makes me desire it, where I shall no more feel the curse of sin, nor see that loathsome thing, corruption. I hail the glorious change. My soul rejoices in the Lord, and I would not exchange my dying hopes, surrounded as I now am with all earthly discomforts, for the greatest luxuries and all the blandishments the world could set before me ; nay, nor could it stop one minute my onward flight to God, were the whole realm of nature, and every monarch with his crown, inviting me to lin- ger for a while, and taste of honor, power, and earthly good. No, oh no! All that is vanity and SICKNESS AND FAJVIINE. 237 a delusion. There is no other happiness but in knowing God, and Jesus Christ whom he has sent ; in knowing him as our merciful, gracious, long-suf- fering God; forgiving iniquity, transgression, and sin : and Jesus Christ as — no words can say what Jesus Christ is when you know him. This is the white stone, inscribed with a new name, which no one knows but he to whom it is given. Jesus, blessed Mediator and Intercessor ! into thy hands I commit my beloved ones. Do thou effectually prevail in the behalf of each, so that all may receive thy Holy Spirit and the gift of eternal life, to thy own and the Father's everlasting glory, world without end. Amen." [Then follow affectionate messages to various friends by name.] " Thursday, June 12. — Ah ! I am happy day and night, hour by hour. Asleep or awake, I am happy beyond the poor compass of language to tell. My joys are with him whose delights have always been with the sons of men ; and my heart and spirit are in heaven with the blessed. I have felt how holy is that company ; I have felt how pure are their affections, and I have washed me in the blood of the Lamb, and asked my Lord for the white garment, that I, too, may mingle with the blaze of day, and be amongst them one of the sons of light. " Wc have long been without animal food of any kind. Our diet consists of oatmeal and pease, with rice occasiomiUy ; but even of this we have only a 238 SICKNESS AKD FAIIINE. stock sufficient to last out the present month, or a very short period beyond this. The weather is very severe, with a deep fall of snow on the ground. But this is not the worst feature of our case. All hands are now sadly affected. Captain Gardiner, a miracle of constitutional vigor, has suffered the least, and if I listened to his own words he is still none the worse ; but his counte- nance bespeaks the contrary. Would it Avere not so ! Mr Maidment, likewise, has sustained the shock of our circumstances very well, but yet great debility is noAv manifesting itself. All the rest have decided symptoms of scurvy, and have some- thino; to do to stand under the burden of the duties devolving upon them ; but their perseverance, and willingness, and patience, deserve the highest praise, whilst it elicits from our hearts a feeling sense of our obligations to them, and a regret to put th'em to such a severe trial. The Lord reward and bless them ! Indeed, his blessing is upon them ; and the Spirit of grace is deepening his work in their souls. Much more could I add, but my fingers are aching with cold, and I must Avrap them up in the clothes. But my heart is warm — warm with praise, thanksgiving, and love to God my Father and to God my Redeemer." Up to this period Mr Williams's Journal had been carefully kept ; and, looking at its neat and legible pages ; knowing, too, the distress and dis- comfort in the midst of which its latter poi tions SICKNESS AND FAMI>'E. 239 ■were written, wo cannot but regard it as a very affecting document. It is quite evident that he had acquired a fond attachment to this personal narrative, and that the hours passed Hghtlj which were spent in its hfe-hke society. Not only was it a survivor from brighter davs, and a remembrance of the hopes and aspirations of the outward voyage, but it was becoming too manifest that his Burslem friends might have no other messenger to tell how it fared with him in the last stage of the pilgrim- age. Eventually, therefore, we believe that it was chiefly for their sakes that, by the light of a candle, and with " aching fingers," as he lay in his cheer- less cabin," he continued to record the incidents and impressions of these lonely days. We are now arrived at the last entry. It is dated, " Cook's River, Sunday night, or possibly Monday morning, June 21 or 22"- — the shortest day of those regions, when the night lasts sixteen hours. It tells how Pearce had come to sit up with the invalids, but had been persuaded to retire to rest ; and it speaks of Badcock as dying. It contains expressions which would almost indicate that the mind of the writer was beginning to wan- der ; but, even amidst confused perceptions, it shews that his faith in God was still clear and unclouded. The last words are: — '•' When I left Burslem on the mission, it was with a secret confidence I should see the salvation of God. Oh, my soul hath beheld it I ' But the 240 SICKNESS AND FAMINE. greatest trouble,' some would say, ' is not over j-et. You have but a week's provision more, even at the rate you are now living at, and no certain expecta- tion of a vessel's coming in that time ! ' Yes, this is so ; but I have a certain and sure expectation of deliverance in that time. To-day is June 22 ; for 1 believe it is far advanced in the morning. "VVe shall see. He that believeth shall never be confounded. " Here I rest my hope. " The Lord's will be done." Captain Gardiner and Mr Maidraent continued to lodge at the cavern, about a mile and a half from the mouth of Cook's River, where the boat containing the rest of the party was moored. And though the distance was not great, so exhausted and Aveakened were they all, that they could not maintain a daily communication. But on Saturday, June 28, Captain Gardiner visited the Speedwell ; and in his own brief joui'nal he writes : — " Found Mr Williams and Badcock to-day very ill. Mr Williams considers the latter beyond the hope of recovery. He is most patient, and leaning only upon his God. Mr Williams is certainly weaker than he has been during his long illness, and to-day spoke very incoherently. He was praying aloud when I reached the boat, for himself and his dying companion, committing themselves to God, and rejoicing in his faithfulness and truth. I have kept no record of the expressions Avhich have SICKNESS AND FAMINE. 241 fallen from him dm^ing my various visits to Cook's River ; but the invariable tenor of them has been entire resignation to the will of God, joy and peace in behoving, and a firm trust in his Redeemer, with the full assurance that all had and still would work together for the advancement of his eternal inte- rests. On one occasion, ' that each day's expe- rience had proved a blessing, that he felt that no one of his trials (and he had many) could have been spared, that he had no will of his own, but left all in the hand of his heavenly Father, and that he was willing to depart in any way that the Lord should see fit.' To-day he said, that ' he only called upon God, on him alone he leaned, and that he was all to him.' " At eleven o'clock on that same evening, John Badcock died. He requested Mr Williams to join him in singing a hymn, and repeated the 202d of Wesley's Collection, beginning — Arise, my soul, arise. Shake o!T tliy guilty fears; The bleeding sr.ciifice In my behalf appears. Before the throne my Surety stands ; My name is written on his hands. He sang it through with a loud voice, and a few minutes afterwards expired. Early in June the net, which had occasionally procured a few fishes, v. as carried away b}^ the floating ice; and on the 4ih nf .Inly Captain Gar- iu- dc-ned with the curse, how gladly ought we to turn to the prophetic picture of tlie same world, clothed with the verdure of righteousue.ss and peace, love and joy ! When we behold the wretched multi- tudes everywhere ground down by oppression, how cheering to think of the happy period when kings shall be the nursing-fathers and queens the nursing-mothers of their people — when justice will every- where be seen holding up her even scales — and the genius of charity opening, on the most barbarous shores, new founts of blessing that shall Jiever more be sealed ! — Dr Dvff. We never hear of a great catastrophe without see- ing, or fancying that we see, how it might have been averted. And it is a rehef from the sharp- ness of sorrow to be allowed to criticise the conduct of others, and to point out the simple precautions which ought to have been adopted. In concluding the foregoing narrative, many will feel that this entire mission v/as sadly mismanaged. They Avill condemn the initial blunder which induced seven men, divided betwixt two little boats, to venture into seas so wild, and among savages so treacher- ous ; and in such an expedition they will say that a strong ship, ably manned, was the true economy. They will lament the over-sanguine calculation which, for an imprisonment of uncertain duration, provided supplies so very limited ; and they will allege that it was not prudent generalship, but a foolhardy trust in the chapter of accidents, which, for its commissariat, drew on the uacaught tish and fowl of Fuegia, and the unpurchased beef 250 CONCLUSION. of Montevideo. They will lift up their hands at the successive fatalities which left the ammunition on ship-board, which lost the fishing-nets, and which, the very first day tliiey were used, let the dingies go adrift. They will point out expedients which might from time to time have been tried with advantage ; and, with the precedent of long voyages in whale-boats and wherries, they will wonder why the adventurers did not seek to escape in their launches to some more friendly shore. And, in the fair distribution of reproof, they will blame the directors who allowed their agents to depart so scantily provided, and who permitted nine months instead of six to elapse betwixt the sailing of the Ocean Queen and the despatch of ad- ditional supphes. We do not deprecate discussion, and we are assured that the community eventually gains much from the freedom with which the proceedings of associations and official personages are reviewed by the organs of public opinion. And it is only candid to add that we have felt in full force some of the regrets which have been expressed in regard to this Patao-onian Mission. But it ouo-ht to be re- membered that the scanty equipment of the expedi- tion was necessitated by the want of funds. None knew better than Captain Gardiner the desirable- ness of a large sloop or brig; but as this was utterly unattainable, he resolved to do his best with such launches as the Society could aiFord. CONCLUSION. 251 And altliougli an ample supply of provisions would have been a great security, the boats could scarcely carry more ; and believing that in the directors at home, in correspondents at Montevideo, and in the produce of the islands, he had three strings to his bow, the leader of the enterprise again yielded to his too chivalrous anxiety to spare the funds of a Society whose treasury was low, and whose friends were few. On the other hand, to account for the disasters of Banner Cove and Lennox Harbour, we would need to exchange places with the devoted band, and imagine ourselves an inexperienced crew of seven persons, two of them mere landsmen, divided betwixt two vessels, contending with cease- less tempests, drenched in rain, pierced with cold, disheartened by hunger and disease, and only left the wretched choice betwixt a coast swarming with cannibals, and " desolate places," the domain of frost and hunger. And to account for the delay in forwarding supplies, we would need to exchange places with the office-bearers, and repeat the despe- rate search for a conveyance made by men whose freight was no inducement to ships of any value, and who had not the means wherewith to charter a vessel of their own. But from all disputes about secondary causes, and from vain speculations about contingencies which cannot now be reahsed, the Christian will raise his thoughts to that " determinate counsel and foreknowledge of God " which ordained the 252 CONCLUSION. result, and which overlooked none of the inter- vening incidents ; and, in a world which owes every- thing to the vicarious principle on which it is administered, he will try to ascertain the lessons taught by the sufferings and the self-sacrifice of these missionary-martyrs. To every devout reader there must be confirma- tion and encouragement in such a narrative as the one now concluded. Seldom have we met with a more striking example of " comfort in the wil- derness;" and, after perusing the experience of Mr Williams, no Christian need fear that his cir- cam stances will be ever so forlorn, but that the Heavenly Comforter can still inspire him with a " joy unspeakable and full of glory." Illumed by an immortal prospect, the dreary cabin becomes " none other than the gate of heaven ; " and, cheered by a celestial Visitor, the long hours of an Antarctic night are never counted. AVithout a crust of bread, the spirit is regaled with " food such as angels eat ; " and, in a disease depressing beyond most others, hope and exultation are the predominant emotions. And far from repenting their own rashness, — farther still from " charging God foohshly," — they congratulate their lot, on ])eing counted worthy to suffer for Christ's sake ; and when, in their little hospital, the first death takes place, the good soldier asks his feeble com- rade to join him in a hymn. Nor is it a small matter to find that the Saviom- t'oxcLusiox. 253 has still disciples who are willing not only to suffer, but to die for his sake. Last century produced no martyrs : but there is again faith in the earth ; and the convicts of Tuscany, the thousand exiles of Madeira, the slaughtered hundreds of Madagascar, " the martyr of Erromanga," and the proto- evangelists of Fuegia, all shew that there are many to whom Christ is so precious, that they are prepared to follow him to prison and to death. But, besides their lesson of self-devotion, have not these good confessors left to the Church a legacy of duty ? Have not their writings, so remarkably preserved, come back from the ends of the earth, as a cry to go over and help these poor degraded Indians? With the precedents of New Zealand and the South Sea Isles, there is nothing in the treachery, the barbarism, nor even in the cannibahsm of these Araucanians, to make a Christian philanthropist despair ; whilst, in their position as a possible inlet to the vast Indian populations of the main- land, there is a powerful inducement to early and untiring effort. Nor should we omit a subordinate and selfish reason for attempting to evangelise these islanders and their Patagonian neighbours. Within the last five years the Straits of Magellan and the ocean liighway round Cape Horn have been traversed by an unprecedented amount of shipping ; and, as long as this continues the main route to San Fran- 254 CONCLUSION, CISCO, the traffic through these seas is likely to in- crease. In such a dano-erous navio-ation we need not say what casualties are likely to occur; but woe betide the ship's company which is thrown into the hands of these savages ! Last winter the ship Porcupine, of Liverpool, was passing through the Straits of Magellan on her way to California, when she grounded. i!^ext mornino- she was surrounded by numerous canoes, full of natives, carrying light- ed pine-branches, who endeavoured to set the shi]? on fire ; and it was not till after a desperate conflict, in which two emigrants were killed and others severely wounded, that the assailants were re- pulsed, and the disabled vessel Avas floated oiF and worked back to the Falklands. And it is only five or six years ago when the captain and crew of the brig Avon were murdered by the same barbarians, and two English gentlemen whom they had in- veigled ashore Avere carried off and put to death, and their bodies, it is believed, were devoured.* Similar casualties are too certain to recur ; and even although the o-overnments of Eno-land and America should send war-steamers to the station, they cannot be ubiquitous; and, on the coercive sys- tem, nothing short of an extirpation of the wretched natives can secure the castaway from the knife of * The dangeris of a detention on these coasts are vividly described in a rough hut romantic book published in America during the iire- sent year : "The Captive in F.itagnnia; or Life aiiiong the Giants. I3y Benj-unin I'i-anhlin 15 •uni.\" H -ami : GmuM and Lincoln. COKCLUSIOX. 255 tlie cannibal. How much better — how much more worthy of a Christian country, and how much cheaper — to reclaim and civilise them ! This the missionary, with God's blessing, alone can accom- phsh ; but the same agency which, all through the Southern Archipelago, has secui'ed for the merchant and whaler depots of provisions and refitting sta- tions, and the assistance of clever mechanics, where formerly the war-club was his only welcome, — this agency may soon stud with gardens and farms and industrious villages these inhospitable shores. The church-going bell may awaken these silent forests ; and, round its cheerful hearth and kind teachers, the Sunday-school may assemble the now joyless children of Navarin Island. The mariner may run his battered ship into Lennox Harbour, and leave her to the care of Fuegian caulkers and carpenters ; and after rambling through the streets of a thriv- ing seaport town, he may turn aside to read the lepers in the Gardiner Institution, or may step in to the week-evening service in the Richard Williams Chapel. When that day arrives, a grateful popu- lation will survey Cook's River and Pioneer Cove, if not Avith emotions as sacred as those with which our Old-World pilgrims visit St Paul's Bay in Malta, and the Grotto in Patmos, at least with feelings as tender as the Christian Briton has often confessed on the rocks of Lindisfarn, and among the ruins of lona. i /VA 000 315 497 8 e© ^^'^^ booki' crdft shop l.j^lolla faliforn'n !>,;* ''' i - A