.#-«,:»£- s:-* ,-* %-^ l.> -BY ^!J»^. .« J ftU o^ 1 ^^-,c- -^^y^---^ J' CO m o o o CO o oc >- OQ X o CO o CO o o I- •< ui :^ O li- o •< o ^OiME ACCOUNT OF THE BARONY AND TOWN OF OKEHAMPTON: Its Antiquities and Institutions. Including the Journals kept by Messrs. Rattenbury and Shebbeare, Gents, and Burgesses, from the 21 James I., to the Death of William III. ; WITH notes GENEALOGICAL, DESCRIPTIVE, AND EXPLANATORY. Trunco non frondibus efficit umbram. — Lucan. EDITED AND ENLARGED FROM THE COLLECTIONS made by WILLIAM B. BRIDGES, The Rev. C. THOMAS and The Rev. H. G. FOTHERGILL, Rector of Belston. WIIH ADDITIONAL CHAPTERS EDITED BY W. H. K. WRIGHT, F.R. Hist. Soc, Borough Librarian, Plymouth. Tiverton : WILLIAM MASLANI), 31, FORE STREET, 1889. /^ W. MASLAND, PRINTER, TIVERTON. The first Edition was Dedicated as follows : — THIS LITTLE WORK, EMBRACING, AS WELL THE LONG LINE OF HIS lordship's NOBLE ANCESTRY FROM THEIR FIRST SETTLEMENT IN ENGLAND, AS ALSO THE SURVEY OF THEIR PRIMITIVE HOLD AND BURGH HERE, HAS SOUGHT AND FOUND A GRACIOUS PATRON IN THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE EARL OF DEVON. WOULD IT WERE WORTHIER OF HIS CONDESCENSION ! PREFACE TO THE PRESENT EDITION. In the following pages will be found an abundance of material of a very interesting character, comprising almost everything that can be said relative to the history of the town and barony of Okehampton, yet hardly to be designated a "History" in the ordinaiy acceptation of that term. It will be noticed that the original compilers styled the work " Some account of the Barony and Town, &c.," but so much has been added to their work by successive, if not successful, hands that it might now be more appropriately named " Collections towards a history of Okehampton." The work was originally published in parts, about the year 1839, and printed by G. P. Hearder, of PljTiiouth, but was never completed, only three parts, compri.sing 112 pages being issued, and the views promised with each of the parts saw not the light. In the present work, the editor has retained the original form and arrangement of the book, having carefully transcnbed all the notes and additions made by the Rev. H. G. Fothergill and others, and revised, as carefully as circumstances would permit, the whole of the work, abstaining from alteration or modification of the text, except in a few trivial instances. The book is therefore intact as far as the original publication is concerned, but large additions have been made in the manner indicated. In order not to overburden the pages of the book with voluminous notes, all the annotations made by Mr. Fothergill have been placed at the end, together with other manuscript additions found attached to Mr. Fothergill's copy. In all these matters the editor has strictly followed the lines laid down by his predecessors, his duty being merely to unite the disjointed fragments, and to pass the work VI. PREFACE, through the press. Consequently he disclaims any responsibility for any tlieories advanced or opinions expressed in the work, which he well knows contains many statements of a doubtful character, which have given rise to much controversy when viewed in the light of recent historical research. The history of the present edition of this work may be briefly told. About four years since, a party of antiquarians and literarj' gentlemen visited Okehampton at the invitation of a lady, one of the owners of Okehampton Park, for the purpose of investigating the antiquities of the district on the one hand, and of estimating its resources, mineral and otherwise, on the other hand. During this visit a well-worn and profusely annotated copy of Bridge's History of Okehampton was handed to one of the leaders of the patty, from which information was from time to time derived, and a wish was very generally expressed that so interesting and scarce a book, with its valuable additional notes might be republished. Early in the present year the matter was again mooted, and some residents in Okehampton becoming interested in the project, a publisher was found, and the present editor, who chanced to be one of the party visiting Okehampton in 1885, was requested to undertake the revision of the work. This he has done, as carefully as the peculiar nature of the task allowed, and trusts that but few errors may be dis- covered, save such as were committed by the first authors, and with which he had no authority to interfere. It may be as well to state that from page 116 of the present work to the end is all new matter, never before printed, and that the ancient charters, rentals, and other documents given on pages 159-164 were included in the original edition, as prefatory matter. The list of the Archdeacons of Totnes has been carefully revised by the Rev. Prebendary Randolph, and the chapter relating to the Parlia- mentary Representatives has been re-written and considerably expanded by Mr. W. D. Pink. To each of these gentlemen the editor is exceedingly obliged. He would also offer his best thanks to Mr. W. Crossing for his able article on Okehampton Park, which will be found at the end of the volume ; also to Mr. Seth Harry, the present Mayor of Okehampton, and to Mr. Harry Geen for many useful hints during the progress of the latter portjoji of the work. Tne Index hjis been carefully compiled by Mr, PREFACE. vii. J. S. Attwood, who has made this branch of literary work his special study. With reference to the illustrations, several of them are from drawings made by Mr. Roscoe Gibbs, of Torquay, for the editor, and reproduced by Mr. Alfred Dawson, of the Typographic Etching Company, London, others are from photographs. Some of the smaller blocks are the pro- ductions of Mr. J. E. Wood, of Plymouth. The map is a reduction of one from the last Ordnance Sur\-ey. In conclusion the editor commends the work to the favourable con- sideration of the public, and while acknowledging its defects, expresses a hope that it may form the basis for a full and complete history of this notable old Devonshire town, the annals of which date back to a very early period, while its connection with the Courtenays, Earls of Devon, considerably enhance its interest and importance. The few details given of the Okehampton of to-day may be taken as fairly reliable, having been verified by present residents. Long may Okehampton flourish, and continue to improve, now that direct railway communication with the rest of the kingdom has placed it on a fair footing with other centres of population and of industrial activity. Plymouth, July, 1889. W. H. K. WRIGHT. ■«ttSI!Sk^-S5ts! a^^ss-^^^i^e >:l^Va»l■li^J ^^m?^^ FROM THE PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. The idea of an enlarged survey of our local antiquities originated with a native and quondam freeman of the borough, extracts from whose Collectanea will a|)|)ear with due acknowledgment in the course of this work. The conception and birth of his little manuscript are unaffectedly given in his own words: — "The writer of these pages, shut out from intimate converse with the present, by an incurable deafness, has long loved to enquire into the ancient state of his birth-place, ' his own romantic town,' and drawn to the subject from his ancestry having held offices in its ever loyal coiporation (one of them having twice filled the civic chair) circumstances might seem to warrant his bias towards the pursuit. For thirty-five years he has been an assiduous, if not successful, gleaner of local relics." And yet it is due to those by whom so much has been laid on our table to admit that the lot was fallen to him in a soil alike beyond his means and capacity. He stood on hallowed ground indeed, those banks of " the Ock or Ockment which glides by one of the most interesting of our monuments of old baronial power, the proud stronghold of the De Redvers, the De Fortibuses, and the Courtenays — Okehampton Castle." [^Quarterly Review, No. Ixix, page i68.] For, as if secular grandeur were insufficient, there were also the monastery and its superstitious yet learned freres, the chantry and its night-watch over the repose of the dead — these to overpower the spirit that mused on them. The present edition dares not anticipate what opinion criticism may form, on his enlargement of the poor antiquary's plan, but he is free to confess that the result has not satisfied himself. Viewing however the limits assigned him, and the limited range afforded to liis reading, he has PREFACE. IX. essayed his best. From Camden and Leland, to Grose and Bro^vne Willis, and from Sir W. Pole and Risdon, down to Chappie and Polwhele and Britten, not to mention id genus omne — the tribes sacred or profane, by whom our local shrine has been, in whatever mood approached — he has taxed his research to compile a memoir of this old burgh and its condition in bye-gone days. To those who might cavil at the paucity of moral reflection exhibited in these pages, he would reply, that much lies limine in ipso, in the subject itself, and for the rest^there was no divining rod set over the soul of the licentiate Garcia. It remains to notice some other portions of the work, the sources whence they have been derived, and the channels through which they have reached us. The original \o\yn\2i\ kept by John Rattenbury, gent., and preserved in the town clerk's office, begins at Section XL, part I., that portion of it which contains the notices from 1623, the date of King James's charter, to 1638, as printed in Section IX., part II., being from a transcript made by Master Richard Shebbeare, now in the possession of T. B. Luxmoore, Esq., deputy recorder of the borough, which opens with the following Memorandum : " That on the 20th day of September, in the 24th yeare of the raigne of King Charles the second, Ano. Dom., 1672, I began to copy out this booke by the towne booke of Record, made and written mostly by Mr. John Rattenbur)', and Mr. Thomas Austin, town clarkes of this towne and borough : all the most remarkable things have [been] as far as my abilities would permit me truly and indifferently copied out for the direction and satisfaction of myself and my posterity or ffriends who should come after me." Thus writes old Richard, attributing a merit to Mr. Town Clerk Austyn which his few entries might scarce claim for him ; the journal left by these worthies is then continued by himself to the mayoralty of Thomas Cunningham, 10 Giil. III., that part resumed in our General Appendix being from the private record above noticed, entitled by him, RiCHARiJ Shebbeare's Booke. It only remains, in this respect, to add, that R;Utenbury's manuscript was handed us, under permission of X. 1>REPACE. the present town clerk, by Mr. William Ponsford, actuary', and the tribute of acknowledgment is, we trust, complete. "In the '^ Iter Carolinum'' we read that his Majesty spent Monday, the 29th July, 1644, at Bow, and that he went on Tuesday, the 30th, to Okehampton, at Mr. Rattenbury's, whom he again honoured, on re- turning from Tavistock." This little critique, curious as adding to the consequence, while it somewhat impugns the accuracy of the good town clerk, has been handed to us from St. Nicholas' priory — we can only vouch for the correctness of our copy. Stewartstone, Holloway. December, 1836. PREFACE TO THE SUPPLEMENTARY APPENDIX. In an advertisement accompanying the third number of this work, the Proprietors, in stating that it would necessarily exceed the limits origin- ally assigned to it, remarked that they could have no apology except it be found in the curious records here given ; which, when the liberality of their best friends had afforded them excess, they could not omit — and dared not mutilate them. Ecce atitem alteriim, while the last sheets were passing through the press, a gentleman and burgess of this town (Henry Robson Colling, Esq., solicitor), has laid before us a document of high interest in its way — another Boohe of Master Shebbeare's ; from the date on the title page, 1669, it appears to be a collection of notabilia respecting the borough, its patrons, officers, property, &c., made by him before transcribing the towTi clerk's journals noticed above. That this collection is not without its value in the correction and enlargement of our Account of Okehampton will have been already seen ; although its principal charm, with us at least, has lain in several entries, expressing liere the personal complacency, in another place the civic zeal of the writer ; entries which his dignity as an annalist obliged him else- where to suppress. Richard was a genealogist and delighted in heraldry withal ; and the happy evidence — to be found, he tells us, " in St. Peter's Church, in two windows," that there was gentle blood* in his family (we fear though on the wife's side only), affords a blazonry for his title page, •.Since the above was in type we have found that the Shebbeare family bore arms ; vaire, on a bend argent, three mullets, with a chief argent. Xll. PREFACE. inter arma virorum, among the escutcheous of Underbill, Cary, Ouicke, Maynard, and others, thus " Gay (my child's great-great-grandfather) beareth or, a chevron between 3 escallops, azure. The high estimation in which Mr. Shebbeare seems to have held civic rank (see note at page loi) has already been glanced at : the following re- marks appended to a succinct list of the mayoralty down to 1675, appear in this record, " 8 Car., John Bremelcombe, my grandfather — 16 Michael Drew, my uncle — 17 William Gayer, my uncle — 22 John Shebbeare, my father — 24 Christopher Drew, my kinsman — 8 Car. II., Andrew Treeveene, my grandfather's apprentice, and my father's partner — 17 John Gayer, grandchild to Mr. Bremelcombe, my cousin german." Now all this kindred and alliance must have been familiar "as household words " to the writer's contemporary burgesses and townsmen ; and as such could be recorded only under a conviction that he was handing down the honours of the family to posterity. "With this key to Master Shebbeare's prepossessions, we are not surprised to find him " noting a solemn sympathy," when points of such interest as the borough lands and feoffments are impugned : in the case given in our Account of Charities, (see Mervyn's award) the writer's Christian moderation seems to have suffered violence in the contest with his civic zeal. — " Mem. William Turpin, which was the primary cause of this (so hard an Award half obliterated) all this strife and contention against the mayor and burgesses, brake his necke falling downe over Mrs. Hutchins's staires at the sign of the Angell, &c., and Richard Bowyer, which was another great Incendiary, mett at last with such an enemy in Cornwall, who prosecuted him soe vehemently in the Lawe, that at last he dyed for very greife of hearte, which made good the words what measure ye mete, dT'c." To counterbalance this effusion take an extract from a charge to the jury at a quarter sessions, in 1655, which Mr. Shebbeare has thought worthy of recording ; it is given partly in short-hand, a character he some- times uses, and partly in words at length ; the last sentence is so peculiarly applicable here that it may suffice for all. " The chiefe end of the lawe, the whole sum and substance thereof is, that all men might live pious towards God, loyalle towards their Soveraigne prince (the Protector'^ L ; ; t>REFACE. Xlii and li\-ing towards each other." For the excellent spirit indeed in which the burtjher-family, whereunto Richard introduces us, had been trained, we have a voucher in their grandfother Bremelcombe's Petition to the mayor and burgesses, presented on his being sworn into the second company in 1623. (Vide infra.) We have detected little that might serve to indicate what were Mr. Shebbeare's opinions, either religious or political, among the divisions of Reuben — in the distracted times upon which he was cast. From a copy, however, of Mr. Justice Gidley his warrant for the apprehension of certain persons therein named as standing convicted of having assembled '* at a conventicle, or unlawful meeting under pretence of Religion ;" and in another place, a deposition on oath made by a butcher against one Dart, of gentle degree, for profaneness, we may surmise, perhaps, that he was of the high church party, but not blind to the profligacy the cavaliers indulged themselves in : if we except indeed a rather frequent adoption of the sacred text in one or two sessional charges, and such names as Cyrus, Daniel, Gideon, Hilarj', Nathaniel, and Tertullian, occurring in his lists of manorial and other tenantry, there is nothing to bespeak the age of the Puritans ; although it was while the Protectorate and themselves were yet on high among the people, that Richard entered on the office of a civic chronicler. Not the least abstruse among our speculations concerning him has been — what were his rank and calhng : for while the good haberdasher of hatts, his grandfather was, as himself tells us, "content to be at a fyne (rather than attend on juries) by reason of abundance of business of his own," in Mr. Shebbeare, the corporate man predominates over the individual in nearly the same proportion. On the whole, albeit heraldic bearings, and the indistinct affixture oi gent, to his name in one place, are startling things, we incline to believe that Master Richard followed the ancestral pursuit in a house still known as his in the Fore street of his beloved town. Of the worthy burgher's personnel, the only indication that has reached us is contained in his mention of a " blue garter," while engaged in measuring certain trees that had been felled by one Westaway, in the Castle-ham. ^^M ^^5x?=V INDEX. Aberenges, see Avianches. Adean, Diana, 153. Adeliza, Viscountess, 12, 112. Adersliam, 42. Agar-Ellis, George James Wel- bore, 146. Aincourt, Ha\vise de, 12, 16. Albemarle, Duke of, 103, 105 ; William de, 177. Albrett, Richard de, ii3«. Alford, John, ~gn., 164; Samuel, 155- Althorp, Viscount, 144. Ancient personal names in Devon, 46«. Annesley, Philippa, 88. Anthony Stile, 203, 205. Anderson, John "William, 143. Ap Owen, — , 68, 68;;. Appledore, 43, 173. Arms: — Avenel, i2n; Belston, 43« ; Brewer, 42;; ; Brioniis, 56« ; Bronescombe, ii6«; Bryan, 43^ ; Cadiho, 43;/ ; Calmady, gzn ; Coffin, 68« ; Courtenay, 34^ ; Fitz, 75^ ; Fitz Rogus, 42« ; Floir, i6« ; Ford Abbey, 1 14«; Hidon, 43/?; Kelly, 43« ; Mohun, 86« ; Northleigh, 103;; ; Okehamp- ton, 56/;, 176; Pollard, 'Jon ; Prouz, 57« ; Stafford, 13;; ; Talbot, 27«, 43« ; Welych, 59« ; Woolfe, 43^. Arnold, James, 163. Arscott, Richard, 155, 166; William, 84. Arundell, — , 85 ; Humphrey, 63 ; John, Sir John, 86, g6« ; William Harris, 174. Arundell Family, 173. Ascelinus, 147. Ashburj- Tor, 205, 210, 212. Ashton, Sir Roger, 87. At Beare, John, 78^. At Pitt, Richard, 78;«. Atterbury, Attebyare, Francis, 151. Austyn, Thomas, 98, 100, 164. Avenel, Ralph, 12, 16/1 ; William, 117;?. Avigo, Hugh de, 147. INDEX*. XV. Avranches, Aberenges, Maud or Matilda de, i6, 56, 159. Aysh, Margaret, I30«. B Bagwell, John, 123. Baileghe, Henry de, 162. Baker, George, Sir George, 151. Baldwin, Archdeacon Totnes, 147 ; Earl, 12. Ball Meadow, 234. Barham, Joseph Foster, 144. Barnes, H. M. B., 124; Henry, 151 ; Ralph, 151. Barrens, John, 163. Bartley, Sir John, 188. Barton, William, 149. Barton Bam Estate, 229. Bartons, the, 58. Basset, Gilbert, 147. Bastard, Robert C, 177. Bate, John, 79;; ; William, 78//. Bath, John, Earl of, 106. Battishill's House, 232. Batt's Meadow, 233. Bean's Meadow, 233. Beaple, Robert, 162. Beare, John, 78//. Beare or Beere-Bridge, 82, 127, 181. Beaufort, Margaret, 26. Beaufrell, Robert, 178. Beaumont, Maud, ^Ott. Bebycombe, Robert, 165. Bedel, Nicholas, 79«. Bedford, John, Duke of, i^'n. Bells of Church, 82, 120, 183. Belstone, 73, 126, 195, 206. Belstone Cleave, 205, 210, 212. Belstone, Bellistone, Baldwin dc, 43. '77- Bequests, 117, 118. Bernard, Archdeacon Totnes, 147. Bevys, Mar}-, 21. Bickell, John, 79//, 153, 228. Bideford, 11. Birham, i6iw. Black Down, 203, 205. Black Fen Brook, 196, 198, 204. Black Fen Hollow, 205. Black Tor, 200. Black lor Copse, 201. Blackmoor, John, 98. Blatchford, John, 79;;, 167. Blatchford's, 232. Blund, Richard, 148. Boadicea, Queen, 7, 172. Bodham, Thomas de, 148. Boghemede, Stephen, 78;/. Bohun, Margaret de, 22. Bolleghe, BoUey, Henry de, 148, 148/? ; Thomas de, I48«. Bolt, Peter, 154, 165, 166. Bond, Charles, 229; Richard, 155 Bonville, Lord, 27«. Borough Pound, 232. Botreaux, John, 26/1. Boues, Thomas de, 147. Bounds, 188, 194. Bourman, Richard, 59, 134. Bow, 42. Bowbeare, 163. Bowdon, — ,129; Edward, 79;/; Henry, 82, 83; John, 79;?; Katherine, 164 ; Richard, 117, 154- Bower, Edmund, 165, 166, 167. Bowerlands, 163. Bowling Green, 232. Boyer, Richard, I55«. Boyne, Lewis, I55«. Xvi. INDEX. Braddeston, John, 78/7. Bradeleghe, John de, 147. Bradford, 42. Bradshaw, Henry H., 124; S., 124. Brand, Thomas, 141. Brandon, James, Duke of, 88. Branscombe, George D. H., 124. Bratton Clovelly, 42. Bray, William, 228. Bremelcombe, Bremescombe, John, 81, 83, 93, 97, ioi«, 181. Brewer, Anthony de, 42. Brian, Elizabeth de, 23. Bridport, John de, 147. Brightley, 157, 163, 166, 234. Brightley Bridge, no, 117. Brightley Chapel, 117, 126. Brightley Priory, 1 10. Brioniis, AdeHza de, 16, 188; Baldwin de, 15, 16, 56, 173, 190; Richard de, 12, 113, 117", 157- Britons, the, 3, 170. Broadamoore, 117. Broadmoor's Land, 232. Broadnymet, 43. Brock, Grace, 152, 228, 235; Richard, 79;?, 152, 228, 234. Brock's Almshouses, 152. Bronescombe, Walter, 116, Ii6« Brown Willy, 204. Browne, William, 29;?. Bryan, Guy de, 43. Brydham, Hugh, 149. Burd, John Marsh, 229 ; WiUiam 224. Burgoyne, — , 105 ; George, 106 ; Robert, 156. Bumeby, John, 149. Burrington, John, 107, 137. Butler, Thomas, 148. c Calmady, — , 121, 186; Josias, 98, 99, io3«, 104, 136, 137; Launcelot, 156, 164; Shilston, Sir Shilston, 61/7, 92, 102 ; William, 79;?, 130. Calverley, 42. Camoys, Matilda, 25. Cann, Can, Edmund, 83 ; Edward, 79;?, 130;/; John, 156, 164; Joseph, 156; Nicholas, 79« ; Richard, 79«, 165, 166; Thomas, 153, 156. Carew, George, 150; Sir Gawen, 61 ; Sir Peter, 61, 6i«, 62. Carter, Thomas, 98, 100, loi. Cary, Anthony, 154; Sir George, 104, 105, 137, i37«; John, 154 ; Launcelot, 163 ; Robert, 164; Wilham, 105, 106, 137. Cattle, Robert, 79«. Cattleigh, Robert de, 78«. Cecil, Robert, Earl of Salisbury, 128;?. Chapel Ford, 73, 212. Chapel Lands, 72, 196, 211. Charde, Thomas, 189. Charities, 153, 228. Charleton, Roger de, 148 ; Thomas de, 148. Charter, 220. Chaterton, Edmund, 149. Childe of Plymstock, 29. Chippenham, Thomas, 149. Christowe, il^n, 1 16. Chudleigh, James, 94, 94«. Chulmleigh, 32, 41, 175. Church Bells, the, 82, 120, 183. INDEX. XVII. Cirton,- Glitters, iqq. Cissor, Robert, 58, 134. Civil War, the, 60. Clarke, Richard, 78;;. Cleave Tor, 210. Clive, Lord, 86w, 174. Clyst St. Man,-, 62, 66. Cockescumbe, William de, 178. Coffin, — ,68; Elias, 177, 178. Coke, Thomas William, 141"; Wenman, 141. Colcombe, 32, 49«, 175. Cole, Francis E. B., 124; Henrj', 83 ; John, 150. Collumpton, William, 150. Common Rights, 193. Coningsby, George Capel, 142. Coode, Anne, 86. Coombe, James, 228. Cooper's Kempley, 231. Coote, — , 185. Corindon, John, 156, 164. Cornish, Edward, 122, 123. Cornwall, Richard, Earl of, 72. Cory, Robert, 156. Cosdon, 192, 195, 196, 200. Cotton, Edward, 150; Mary, 13; Wilham, 150. Cottle, Alexander, 156; George, 118. Court Leet, &c., 155. .Courtenay, Edward, Sir Edward, 12, 13, 24, 26, 30, 3i«, 33,37, 42, 85, 86, 174; Ehzabeth, 17, 30, 85 ; Florence, 85, 88 ; Sir Francis, 33/? ; Gertrude, 74 ; Hawise, 56, 159; Henrj', 13, 114 ; Hugh, Sir Hugh, 12, 13, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 26, 30«, 34, 5". 78«, 79, 85;?, 86, 161 ; Isabella, 85, 86; John, 12, 13, i8«, 19,27, 42, 113, 115, 126, 127, 158 ; Margaret, 23 ; Marj', 18''. 57. 159, 177; Maud, 85, 86 ; Peter, Sir Peter, 23;?, 61, 6i«, 84, 132, 167 ; Sir Philip, 23 ; Reginald, Sir Reginald, 17. 57, 158, 161, 177; Robert, 12, 17, I7«, 18, 56, 57, 79, ii'n, 159, 161, 177; Thomas, 13. 26, 27, 36, 51, 115; William, Sir William, 12, 13, 31, 3i«, 36, 42, 181. Courtenay Family, 173, 174. Coventr}', Sir Thomas, 131. Cowe, Richard, 147. Cowick, 176; Priory, 73^, iii, 114, 125, 126, 190. Cowle, John, 78^. Coxe Family, 85;/. Coxhead, William L., 124. Cranmere Pool, 209. Crigge, John, 165, 166. Crispin, Gilbert, 15. Crockem Tor, 29;?, 175, 200. Crosses, 74, 180. Crossing, William, 236. Crotch, John Rowe, 229. Crovener Steps, 196, 200, 205. Crowley, John, 139. Cruisse, Cruewis, John, 69 ; Robert, 69. Cudmore's House, 234. Cunningham, Ambrose, 105, Thomas, 107. Curson, William, 175. D Danmonia, 9. Darcy, Thomas, 75. Darky Lane, 233. xvin. INDEX. Darley House, 2<2. Dartmoor, Bounds of, loi ; Hut Dwellings on, 3. Dauncy, — 247?. Davy, Hugh, 156. Davy's House, 232. De Redvers P'amily, 18. De Vere, Isabella, 19. Deer on Dartmoor, 207. Delytle, John, 79«. Denyall, Geoffrey, 78«. Despenser, Eleanor, 20. Devon, Adeliza, Countess of, 157; Catherine, Countess of, 8q ; Thomas, Earl of, 114. Devyock, Anne, 154. Deyman, Edmund, 166. Dibble, John, 138, 139. Dinger Plain, 199. Dinger Tor, 199. Dodmore, 162. Dogge, John, 82. Doidge's Meadow, 232. Dolton, 41. Domehay, 231. Domvile, Sir Compton, 145. Douglas, Michael, 91. Downall, Downhall, John, 124, 151, 183, 218, 229 ; T., 124. Downe, John, 79// ; Oliver, 79^, I sow- Drake, Mary, 46 ; Roger, 78/?. Drewe, Christopher, 97. 99 ; Henry, 229 ; Michael, 91 ; Robert, 229 ; William, 97. Druids, the, 2, 3, 5, 169, 172. Ducking-stool, 177. Duffeld, Barnard, 63, Dufty, Bryan, 228. Dunally, Henry, Baron, 145. Dunneford, Robert de, 178. Dun's Coombes, 232. Durybole, Henry, 78/;. Dyer, Henry, 79«. Dynham, Dynant, Sir John, 29 ; Oliver de, 29«. Dyscombe, William, 126. E Earle, Alfred, 151. Earl's Malthouse, 232. East Bridge, 232. East Hill, 210. East Mil Tor, 197, 198, 205, 20G. East Ockment Farm, 196. East River, 233. Edye, — , 177. EUacott, John, 107. Ellis, John, 153. Elsworthy, Peter, 156. Espeke, Richard de, 42. Esse, Baldwin de, 43 ; John de, 148, I48«. Essex, Earl of, 95, Estebrooke, 78//. Evans, William, 48«. Everard, Robert, 98, 136. Ewe, Godfrey, Count of, 15. Exeter, Battle near, g, 173. Exeter Castle, 18. Fair, I02«. Fair Place, 233. Fairfax, Sir Thomas, 97. Fatherford, 163, 213. Fawell, William, 150. I50«. Fenfield, 72/;, 180. Field, Mary, 153. Fire, 10 1. Fishley, Daniel, I55«, 164. INDEX. XIX. Fitz, John, Sir John, 75, 75/?, 163, 209 ; Mary, 75. Fitz Baldwin, Richard, ib, 56, 112, II2«, 174. Fitz Ede, Matilda, 17; Robert. lb Fitz Gilde, Robert, 148. ¥\U John, John, 147. Fitz Patrick, Robert, 141. Fitz Ralph, Ralph, 177. Fitz Rogus, Simon, 42. Fitz Roy, Robert, 12. Fitz's Well, 74, 195, 208, 209. Fleminge, Thomas, I29«. Flyscombe, 163. Fogy Park, 232. Ford Abbey, 42, 70, 108, 112, 189. Foresland Lodge, 200. Forrester, Alexander, 141. Fortibus, Isabella de, i8«, 188. Fothergill, — , 210. Francis, Sir William, 66, 68«. P'rend, John, ~gn. Froude, Robert Hurrell, 15 1. Fulford, Sir Francis. 164; John, 149. Fullwood, Francis, J 50. Furse, — , 130^; Edmund, 163, 196 ; Edward, 79;/ ; John, 97;;, William, 78^. Gaskin's Meadow, 233. Gauls, the, 2«. Gay, Elizabeth, 98 ; Richard, 79«. Gayer, Benjamin, loi, 104, 107, 108, 122; Hester, ioi«, 164; John, 100, 102, 106, 107 ; William, 93. Gayer' s House, 217. Gear, Benjamin, 209. Geen, Charles, 217, 228, 236; Heniy, 217. GeoftVey, Archdeacon of Totnes, 148 ; Prior, U7«. George Inn, 233. Gerard. Lady Charlotte, 88. Ghildisburghe, Peter de, 148. Gibbs, Mary Anne, 213. Gibby Lands, 233. Gidley, — , 105. Giglet Market, 102;;. Gilbert, Abbot of Waverley, 157. Githridge, — , 68. Glan\-ille, Francis, 165 ; John, 80, 82, 133, 167 ; Lady, 188 ; Serjeant, 128. Glenorchy, John, Lord, 145. Gloube, Henry, 59, 134. Godolphin, Thomasin, 118. Gold. Matthew, 99. Goring, Lord, 97«. Graves, Thomas, Lord, 144. Gray, Ladj Ehzabeth, 32^. Great Kempley, 231. Grendon, John, 228. Grenville. SirBevil, 75; Elizabeth, 77«; Sir Richard, 75, 76, 77, 86«. 94, 96, 97«, 181. Grey, Lord, 65, 66 ; Walter de, 147. Growdon, John, jgn, 80, i66 ; Richard, 156; Robert, 130«; Sarah, 164 ; William, ~gn. Gubbings, the, 97«. Gump's Pool, 103. H Hackwoods, 162. Hagge, Geoffrey de la, 177. xi. INDEX. Haldon Hill, lo. Hall, 86«. Hals, Sir Nicholas, 167. Halstock, Holestock, 71. 72, 163, 179. 181, 194, 203, 205. Halstock Chapel, 72, 210. Halstock Cleave, 210. Halstock Comer, 19b. Halstock Down, 195, 205. Halstock Woods, 212. Hamlyn, Captain, 109 ; Christo- pher, 6i«. Hammett's House, 233. Hammond, Galinus, 78^. Hampson, William H., 124. Harris, Alfred, 228 ; Arthur, Sir Arthur, loi, 104, 136, 137, I57«, 174; Christopher. 138, I39> 157; Lady Cordelia, 157^; John, Sjn ; John Christopher, 174; Thomas, 228; William, 107, 138. Harrowgrowe, Harragroes, Harra- growe, Harrigro, — , 167; Ann, 117; Richard. 79/?, 117, 153, 163. Harry, Seth, 217, 228. Harter Ford, 197. Harter New Take, 196. Hawkeridge, Captain, 129, 130. Hawkey, Reginald, 156. Hayne, Heayne, Haynes, John, 120; Richard, 84, 91, 96, 97. Hayward. — , 217. Heale, see Hele. Heavyside, Richard, 142. Heddon, James, 165. Hele, Heale,—, 188 ; Gertrude, I28«; John, 128, 128^ ; Philippa, 87 ; Sir Thomas, 136. Hellier, Henry, 79«. Hellions, Harvey, b8n ; Sir William, 68. Hempton, William, "jSn. Hendy's House, 232. Henges-down, 9. Herbert, Sir William, 67/?, 68. Hertford, Thomas de, 148. Hethcote, Ralph, 149. Hethfield, John, 176. Hidon, John de, 43. High Wilhayes, 200, 203, 204. Higher Kempley, 231. Hill, — , lign; Nicholas, 163; Thomas, 96, 97. Hobbe, John, ySn. Hockin, Thomas Par, 124. Hockwood, 58. Hodge, Richard, 206. Hoke, Nicholas de la, 178. Holditch, Walter, 79;?. Hole, Humphrey Aram, 124 ; John, 164 ; Sir Thomas, loi. Holestock, see Halstock. Holland, Henry, 85;/, 143, 143/?, 1 74 ; Joan, 23 ; Richard, 34, 52//. Holley, Charles William Hunt, 218; James Hunt, 218, 229; Wyndham Hunt, 219/?, 228, *> 7 - -3/ • Holwell, John, 115, 126. Homerton Hill, 202, 204. Honiton, 64. Honiton, John de, 59. Hope, Thomas, 146. Hopton, Ralph, Lord, 94, 96^. Horraford, — , 130. INDEX. XXI. Horrell, Richard, i(50, 103. Horsey, Joan, 87. Howard, Sir Charles. 75 : Lady, 74 ; ]Mrs., 44// ; Lady ^Slary, 164. Howell, King of the Comish, Hubba, 10, 173. Hugh, Archdeacon Totnes, 147. Hundcn, William, 149. Hungerland, 232. Hurst, — , 166; Wilham, 153, 165. Hussey, — , 121 ; Jeremiah, 120, 122 ; John, 94, lOl, 118; Rebecca, 120. Hutchings, Francis, 100. Huyshe, Francis, 1 1 1« ; T., 124. I Inglefield, Sir Francis, 42. Inwardleigh, 95. Irisliman's AVall, 197. Iron Gates, 202. Island of Rocks, 202. Isaac (Ysaac), Archdeacon of Totnes, 147. J Jane's House, 233. Jennings, George, 142. John, Archdeacon Totnes, 148. Johnson, — , 165; William, 165, 166, 167. Jones, — , 131. Jordan, Richard, 163 ; Wilham, 80, 82, 84, 90, 155. Jordan's House, 234. Joyle, — , 186. K JCekbeare, 121, i2i/i. Kelly, Nicholas, 43. Kelly's Corner, 196. Kemplty's, 231. Kendall, Nicholas, 151. Kenne, 42, ii^n. Kennacott, Keynecot, Robert, 78« ; William, 80. Kent, John de, 147 ; Thomas, 150. Killigrew, Sir Henry, 87. King, Lawrence, 78«. Kingsley, Charles, 214. Knight, Lawrence, I55«. Kyrketon, Alan, 149. Ladbroke, Robert, 142, 143. Lake, John, 156; Richard, 156//. Lakedown, 186. Langford, Henry, 156. Lang's House, 231, 232. Lawrence, Elizabeth, 88. Le Gros, Peter, 17. Leach, Sir Simon, loO, 137, 13-S. Leage, William de, 177. Lees, ^Irs., 236. Legge, John, 79^. Lemon, William, 78;/. Lennard, William, 77//. Lethbridge, Christopher, 15b, 164. Lewis, Richard, 72^. Ley, 231. Ley, Sir James, 129. Linsey, Earl of, 96. Little, Arthur, 103. Lloid, Owen, 149. Long Kempley, 231. Longstone, 160. xxu. INDEX. Longstone Hill, 202, 204. Lopse's Meadow, 234. Lougher, Robert, 1 50. Lower Maddaford, 234. Lower Westacott, 234. Lucy, William, 228. Luxmore, Luxmoore, Charles, 174, 181, 236; John, 142, 174, 236; Miss, 236; Thomas Bridgeman, 51^, 7g«. Luxmoore Family, 85;?. Lyde, George, 208. Lydeford, John, 149. Lydford, 11. Lydford Castle, 29. Lydford Law, 39, 175. Lymothe, William de, 177. Lyttelton, George, 139, 140. M Mace, the, 157. Mainwaring, Charlotte, 88. Major's Bam, 230. Major's House, 234. Mander, see Maunder. Manning, Thomas, 149. March, William, 103. Markes, John, ~%n. Martin's House, 233. Marwood, Dr., 187. Maunder, Mander, John, 155, 163. Maurice, Prince, 95. Maxwell, J. G., 229. Mayne, James, 124. Mayor choosing day, 58«. Meldon, 163, 181, 194, 203, 207. Meldon Down, 94. Meldon Quarry, 202. Meldon Valley, 236. Meldon Viaduct, 203. Meledon, Geoffrey de, 177. Meoles, see ^lules. Mere stones, 196. ^Nlenifield, Alexander, 164. Merriman, Thomas, 156. Mervyne, Richard, 94, 119, 120. Michell, Gilbert, 129. iMilford, William, 156. Milton, Damarel 42. Minchin, Humphrey, 141, 142. Mohun, — •, 85, 92, 99, I04« 132, 167 ; Charles, 87, 88 164, 188 ; Cordelia, 87« John, 13, 82, 86, 87, 88 Reginald, 41, 86, 87, 129 Warwick, 87, 88, 156 William, 86, 87. Mohun family, 173. Molis, de, see Brioniis. Moor Brook, 205, 210, 212. Moore, John, 156. Moss, W., 108. Mount Ribbon, 233. Mowcombe, 166. Moyse's Land, 233. Muddaford Stratton, 166. Mules, Meoles, James, 1 24 ; Roger de, 177. Musbury, 42. N Nation, Ann, 122; Francis, 95, 122. Nethecot, Thomas, 79«. New Bridge, 197, 198, 205, 206. New Inn, 231. Newberry, Newbury, Ruth, 164; Sampson, 106 ; William, 107. INDEX. xxni. Newcombe, Hugh, 79M ; John, 79«, 97, 176; Peter, 156; Simon Peter Brendon, 220, 228. Newenham Abbey, 41. Newton, 43. Nix Mead, 232. Norleigh, Henrj', 103, 103;/, 106 North Lane, 233. Northerate, Thomas, 78^. Northleigh, Edward, 136 ; Henry, 137 ; Richard, 156, 164. Northmore, — ,85;?; John, 164; Thomas, 107, 137, 138, 139/?; William, 139. Northwode, John, 148 ; Otho, 148. Noss, William, 106. Noye, — , 131 ; William, 131W. Nymet, Roland de, 43 ; William de, iGi. Oath of Alayor, 92«. Ock River, 15. Ockment, East &= West, 192, See. Odune, Earl, 10. Oke, Roger, 83. Okehampton, early site of, 179; Antiquity of, 15; Barony of, 12; Alayors of, 80; Provosts ' of, 78«. Okehampton Castle, 44, 208, 235, Inscription on Chapel Wall^ 52/;. Okehampton Church, 112, 116, 190, 217. Okehampton Park, 69, 194. Oliver, George, iii«. I Ommanney, Sir J. M., 145W. I Oxenham, Simon, 92. Painter's Court, 230. Palfrey, Heniy, 100. Falser, John, i55«. Paradise, 231. Parker, Lewis, 94, 167 ; William, 150. Parkhouse, William, 126. Parsons, John, 156. Partridge, Sir Miles, II4«. Passmore, Richard, 228. Paulet, Sir Hugh, 68. Payne, Nicholas, 207 ; Robert, 79W. Pearce, — , 217. Peard, — , 132. Peaise, William Burd, 224, 228. Penbroke, Pennybroke, Walter de, 148, 149. Pennington, Robert de, 112. Pennybroke, see Penbroke. Penty Ham, 231. Percy, Sir Alan, 75. Perriman, Richard, I55«. Peter, Peters, Philip de, 177 ; Thomas, 118, 163. Philips, — , 188. Picts, the, 7, 173. Pigs' ground, 232. Pike's Mead, 232. Pile's Wood, 201. Pincerna, see Butler. Pinhoe, 11. Pink, W. D., 134. Pitt, Robert, 139, 139// ; Thomas, 139, 140, 141 ; William, 140. Pitt family, 86^. XXIV, INDEX. Plague, the, 80. Poet's Land, 232. Pole, Sir John, 91. Pollard, Sir Amias, 105 ; Sir Hugh, 60 ; John, 150 ; Richard, 70, -on. Pomeroy, Sir Thomas, 66. Pope, Nicholas, 107. Porter, Nicholas, 83. Portingale's House, 234. Postlade's House, 234. Potter, George, 156 ; Thomas, 140 Pound, 234. Prest, Roger, 156. Prickman, John Dunning, 220. Prous, Sir Peter, i8«. Pryer, W. H. I., 228. Pryor, Nicholas, 104. Pudhanger, 163, 195, 203, 205. Pulser, John, 166. Pulser's House, 233. Puntyngdon, William de, 148. Pye, Sir Robert, 96. Pyke, Malachi, 78«. R Rack Park, 233. Ralegh, Raleghe, Henry de, T78 ; Walter, 62. Randall, ■ — , loi. Rathbone, James, 124. Rattenbuiy, — , 90, 185, 188 ; Edward, 107 ; Francis, 121, 155; Hester, 123; John, 79;?, 81, 83, 91, 97, 98, 130, 132, 153, 165 ; Katherine, 164 ; Mary, 121 ; Nicholas, 79/2; Peter, 79^, 80, 82, 83, 119; Robert, loo, 102, 104, 106, 123. Red, Robert, 78«. Red Fen Brook, 203, 204. Reddaway, Thomas, 83. Reddewan, Richard, 166. Redstone's House, 233. Reynell, Richard, 164. Reynold, Reynolds, Robert, 99, 136. Rice, John, 155 ; Peter, 103. Rich, William, 109/7. Richard, Abbot of Brightley, 157, 158; of Ford, 189. Risdon, Edwin, 79;? ; Giles, 156, 164 ; Maud, i^ott. Risford, Adam, 43. Robartes, Lord, 95, 95/;. Robert, Abbot of Brightley, 158 ; Archdeacon of Totnes, 147. Roberts, Sir Henry, 130. Robson, Richard Bateman, 143, 144. Rodney, George Bridges, 140. Rolle, Dennis, 84. Roman Road, 70. Romelie, Alicia de, 17;/. Rook, Richard, 98. Roole, John, 15b, 164. Roper, Mrs. Trevor, 236. Rosen Upcott, 163. Rouen, Robert de, 115. Rous, Roger le, 148. Row Tor, 195, 205. Row Tor Coombe, 197. Rowe, Nicholas, 120. Rude, John, 79;/. Rundell, John, 79;/. Russell, Lord, 61, 62, 63, 65, 66, 67;/ ; Lord John, I16, 126. s St. Aubyn, Thomas, 163. St. James' Chapel, 81, 182, 218, 234- INDEX. XXV. St. John, Agnes, 22. St. John's Land, i66, 234. St. Leger, John Hayes, 142, 143. St. Mar)- Clyst, see Clyst St. Mary. St. Mary's Chapel, Exeter Castle, St. Michael's Chapel, 210. St. Thomas' Church, 63. .Sampford Courtenay, 41, 60, 67, 68, 126, 149. Sandy Ford, 192, 199, 200. Sap, de, sse Brioniis. .Saunder, John, 156. Sa\ile, Albany, 86//, 144, 145, 174, 2i9«, 236; B.W., 124; Christopher, 145 ; Edwartl Bouchier, 220. Sajer, John, I55«- -Schools, 154. Scots, the, 7, 173. .Seal of Okehampton, 98. Seldon, John, 155/?, 186. .Serlo, Dean, 147. .Seuter, — , 188. .Seymour, Edward, 146. Seymour's House, 231. .Shambles, 100. Shebbear, 42. Shebbeare, — , 120, 155; John, 50. 97, 98, 100, 104, 106, 107, 121; Richard, 74, 79«, loi, 103, 105, 121, 159. .Shebbear's, 231. .Shilston, Ehzabeth, 61. Ship-money, 91. Short, Widow, 164. .Skynner, Thomas, 151. Slade, William, 83. .Slapton, 42, 43. Smale, Edwin, 228 ; John, 78«. Smyth, John, 78«. Snell, George, 151. Soper, Richard, 186. Sourton, 193, 200. Southcot, Sir John, 106. Southwick, 13, 174. Spencer, John Charles, 144. Spinola, Baptiste, 65. Spreyton, 125. Spurhng day, 188. Squire, Thomas, 103, 106, 107. Stafford, Hugh, 156; Humphrey, 13, 28 ; Thomas, 156. Stanhope, Cordelia, 87. Star Inn, 231. Steele, William, 149. Stewerson, 163. Sticklepath, 30^, II5«, 126, 175. Stondon, John, 78//. Stony Park, 94. Strada, John, 78// . Strange, James, 143. Strutt, Joseph Holden, 145. Swete, Lewis, 150. Swift, Jasper, 150. Sydnor, Richard, 149. Symington, William Weldon, 225. Symon's Ditch, 195, 196, 203. Sythaby, 163. T Talbot, Lady Anne, 26 ; William, 43- Tanfeild, LawTence, 129^. Tanner, Thomas, 124. Tapper, John, 79« ; Oliver, 83. Tapper's House, 231. Tarraynt, William, 163. Tauton, Tawton, Tanton, Robert de, 58 ; Thomas de, 134. XXVI. INDEX. Tavemer, John, 156, 164. Tavistock Abbey, 11, 173. Taylor, William, 79«. Thatch, Nicholas, 78W. Thellusson, George W., 143; Peter Isaac, 143. Thifam, John, 149. Thomas, Prior of Cowick, 116. Thomas, Edward, 92, 135. Thomson, Robert Thomas White, 225. Thomcombe, 42, no, 113, 113^/, 190. Thrupp, Horace W.. 124. Tin-streaming, 198. Tinkcombe, Edward, 155/?. Tinners' Parhament, 200. Tipper, — , 129. Tiverton Castle, 49«. Tockbeare, John, -Sn. Tomson, John, 143. Tothill, Henry, 165, 166, 167. Town Hall, 219. Townsend, E., 228. Towton, 27, 174. Trant, William Hem7, 145, 146. Trees in Churchyard, 124. Trelawny, — , 85 ; Alneth, 89 ; Anne, 87; Sir Jonathan, 150; Walter, 89. Trethurffe, Elizabeth, 86; John, 85 ; Margaret, 86. Trevanion, Jane, 86. Treweene, Andrew, 98 ; Digony, 98. Trewin's House, 230. Tucker, — , 188 ; Robert, 78^. Tuckfield Meadow, 234. Turpin's Land, 232. Two Bridges, 201. Tyrwhit, Thomas, 143. u Uglow, Thomas, 107. Underdown, Henry, 'gti; Richard, loi ; Robert, 'jgn. Underbill, — , 60; G., 228. Underbill &" Harris, 217. Uplands, 212. V Vaghan, John, 83, 93, 94. Valetort, Johan, 42. Vane, Henry M., 235. Vaughan's House, 234. Veniton Bridge, 64. Vernon, Richard, 141, 142; William de, i8n, 2^n. Vickery, John, 123, 157^. Vila, Augar de, 177. Vivian, Vyvyan, — , 86 ; Sir Francis, 85^, 167 ; Sir Richard, 84, 132, 167, 174; Sir Richard Rawlinson, 146 ; William, 150/2. Vokin's House, 230. Vortigern, 8, 172. Vyner, Robert, 140. w Wagott, Wilham, 149. Walter, Henry, 156. Ward, Bishop Seth, 100. Wardle, Gwyllym Lloyd, 144. Ware, — , 119, 120. Warren, John, 155. Watchet Hill, 206. Wearham, 58. Webber, Robert, 163. Webberley, Wilham, 165. Webbery, — , 130^ ; Henry, jgn, 166. INDEX. xxvu. Webham, 233. Wedderburn, Alexander, 141. Weekes, Joan, b^; John, 104; Samuel, 228 ; William, 84. Weekes' Kempley, 231. Welysch, Henry, 59. Wembworthy, 42. West Bridge, 233. West ^Slid Row, 233. West JMil Tor, 195, 205. West Well, 232. Westacott, 165. Westcott, — , 217 : T.C., 228. Westlake, Stephen, ~q>t. Weston, Stephen, 131. \\'hiddon, Oliver, 150. \\'himple, 42. White, Whyte, Wyte, — , 123; Ann, 156 ; James Richard, 124; Richard, 130W. Whittaker, Lawrence, 92, 93, 135 Widecombe-in-the-moor, 208. Wiggens, Thomas, 142. Wilhayes, 201. Wilkinson, Charles Thomas, 151. Willes, Catherine, 88. Wills, Thomas, 98W. Winslade, Arundcll, 68/?. Wintsworth, 231. Wise, Edmund, 99 ; Edward, Sir Edward, 98, 103, 136, 156; Thomas, 91. Wistman's "Wood, 201. Wodland, William, 155, 156. Wood, Thomas, 228 ; Wilham, 224. Woodbur}-, 65, 67. Wrey, Sir Henn, 235. Wright, H.S., 124. Wynkleghe, Roger de, 147. Wynyard, ^lontague, 52«. Yendall, Christopher, loi, 104, 106, 107 ; John, 155/?. Yeo, George, 163 ; Isaac, 228, I 229 ; William, 224, 228. I Yes Tor, 194, 195, 196, 198, 200, i 201, 203, 204, 206. 1^^ •>^(>?^"" 1 S IP ANTIQUITIES AND INSTITUTIONS OF OKKHAMPTON. SECTION I. Et penitus toto divisos orbe Britannos. — Virgil. Beyond the reach of records is a settled gloom, which no ingenuity can penetrate. — Dissertation on the Era of Ossian. T is a trite, but here necessary, remark, that the primitive inhabitants of this island maintained the independence of its western shores, long after the rest had been subdued by various tx invaders : a rapid glance over the state of the Britons followed by a yet slighter notice of the Roman conquest, will bring us to the reign of Egbert, and the site of our researches as a border district lying between them and the Anglo-Saxons. After that we shall notice some local incidents, connected with " our invaders the Danes," until these also in their turn gave way to the superior merit or features of the Normans. *Additional notes by theKev. II. G. Fothergill and otliers will be found in an Appendix at the end of the volume. — VV. II. K. W. 2 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. Our long accredited descent from "the Brut" and his Trojan emigrants, has now quietly vanished in the light of reason and common sense : the legend, which has alike supplied theme to the minstrel's song, and the pen of the chronicler, and which afforded our first Edward a plea for his assumed supremacy over Scotland, rests on frail grounds at best ; Geoffrey of Monmouth, who has preserved the tradition, was assailed by the bitterness of contemporary critics on account of it ; and yet the tale, now considered as a legendary romance,^' has drawn the attention of some antiquarians to a degree, greater perhaps than it merited ; others, in abandoning it, have laboured to establish notions equally wild and theoretical. So long since as Tacitus' day, it had been remarked, that the complexions of the Britons varied from the florid hue of the Teutonic hordes, to the darker tinge of Spain ; but the neighbourhood, their common religion and speech, all pointed to a Gallic origin. f The patriarchal form of government, so universally dis- cernible in other ancient communities, might also be traced in the institutions of this people, however modified in character by place or circumstance. The British Chieftain had under him two classes of dependents, the freemen, and the villeins or vassals ; the Order of the Druids formed the fourth, and at the same time most influential portion of the community : Cffisar considers them as the first in rank *Camden, in ascertaining our genuine antiquities, was obliged to undermine the error with modest scepticism. fThe learned "Whitaker, in his "Genuine History of the Britons," fixes the immigration of the Gauls into this island about the reign of Da%id and his son, (.) Solomon, a period which coincides with the authorities quoted by Richard of Cirencester. (.)i,ooo years B.C. (H.G.F.) >!> HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 3 among the British nobles. " INIuch, both in war and peace, in government and law, in the administration of justice, and in domestic tranquility depended on the natural disposition, the talents, and the will of the Druids, who resided in the district and presided over its affairs.*' It were easy to cite from the history of this singular class, and, as connected with them, from the superstitions of our ancestors, matter that would swell the pages, rather than add to the intrinsic interest of this little volume. Of British domestic remains in this immediate neighbourhood, the following is from the account of a living antiquarian, in whose hands we may be allowed to leave the sacred circle, the cromlech and the cairn. "The huts or dwellings of the ancient inhabitants are to be found in every part of Dartmoor, in a state, generally very imperfect ; the foundation stones, and those forming the door jambs, being all that remains of these dwellings, with few exceptions. The huts are circular on the plan, the stones are set on their edge, and placed closely together, so as to form a secure foundation for the superstructure, whether that they were wattle, turf, stone, or other material. These vestiges strikingly illustrate the descriptions which Diodorus Siculus and Strabo, give of the habitations of the Britons of their times. The former describes them as poor cottages, constructed of wood, and covered with straw [and sometimes skins] ; the latter as wooden houses, circular in form, with lofty conical roofs. The foundation slabs above mentioned, generally stand from eighteen to thirty inches above the surface. The door-jambs in most cases higher, ♦Drew's " History of Cornwall." 4 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. placed nearly at right angles to the outline of the circle ; in a very considerable proportion of examples the door faces the south." These habitations were, in accordance with the rude state of such as tenanted them, a confused parcel of huts, placed, for the most part, in the mic'dle of a wood, its avenues being defended by ramparts of earth, or trees felled to clear the passage. Such were the dwellings of the serfs ; those of the higher classes were erected with more attention to the material of which they were composed, and with still greater care for the situation chosen. The chief sometimes fixed on an elevated knoll for his abode ; at others, and more frequently, on a site which so strikingly coincides with the locality the antiquities of which are here attempted in description, that we might almost fancy it drawn from the place itself. The chief, we are told, usually had his abode on the hill- side, with a group of dwellings for his serfs near the river below it, and a road wound along the valley between them, gradually ascending to a beacon which overlooked the whole. Thus the lord's residence constituted a kind of fortress, which the alarm of a scout might at any time garrison with his surrounding tenantry. In following him to such a habitation, we shall be introduced to scenes re- sembling those described by Ossian : in some elevated seat — afterwards the dais of the baronial hall — the rude couch, surrounded by his principal guests, who sat on the skins with which his floor was covered, presided over the festivity* of his vassals. The smoke, which escaped from an aperture *From the spume of their eumin, or ale, which they drank on high festive days only, they collected their burmen or barm : yeast is commonly luiown by no other name in the west of England to this day. — Drew. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. S left in the roof for that purpose, " rose from a hundred trees," blackening the rafters ; while the harp and song of bards woke a tale of other days : the wassail cup passed round ; and the chief heard with delight the glories of his ancestors, until morning called him forth again to his falcon or his hound, of which latter kind the segh-dog,* or southern hound — a large, slow race, now extinct — seems to have been a favoured attendant. The dress of this half savage people was, according to some, a flowing robe of w^oollen texture ; from others, a scanty hide, worn to meet the prejudices of strangers, rather than from any actual want. In stature, they were more tall than compact, their habits frugal, and their manners barbarous. In the cruel rites of their religious worship, the Britons present the same picture as other uncivilised hordes ; in one instance they stood alone ; a custom, as we are informed by Caesar, prevailed among them, which seemed detestable to other nations ; it was for ten or twelve men, brothers or intimate friends, to have their wives in common, a custom which seems to hare been in practice, if not also in its origin, exclusively British ; it was distinct from the marriages of the Gauls, and can find no parallel in any of the Western nations. In every state of society, some rank or order will be found to excel the rest in the arts of life, in knowledge and learning; and it is only by weighing their acquirements in the balance with other nations, that we learn to estimate the real progress. The Druids, would we accredit some fragments of their own, *Se{^h — the moose deer of America ; large bones, apparently of this species, have been lound in many parts of this countiy. 6 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. were no mean proficients in science, as well as in morals and literature : from the more sensible writers of Greece and Rome, we gather, that their knowledge was imposture, and their manners rude. The people, it is ever the case, were in a still lower degree of civilization than their teachers, and to a religion and habits ill-calculated to promote their happiness, other causes were superadded to impair and destroy it. The inland country was divided into petty principalities, without natural or artificial means ot defence, thus offering a wide field to rapine and ambition: the sea coast lay in the possession of powerful strangers, men who had been enter- tained as exiles, and fostered until they became enemies. The warfare of the Britons was simple, for they fought naked, protected by a wicker shield only ; their chariots, with scythes projecting from the wheels, were more calculated to astonish the rude, than to secure a victory over disciplined troops, such as fifty-five years before the Christian era they were called to encounter in Caesar,* and his legionaries. Two expeditions made by this victorious leader tended to discover, rather than subjugate the southern parts of Britain : f he again withdrew his forces, securing to the Republic the glory of its last empty conquest, and leaving to the islanders their ancient laws and customs, and with *Suetonius intimated that he came over to enrich himself from the pearl fisheries on the coast : but the thirst of ambition is insatiable as that of gain. fPliny, iv. i6, says : — " The name of one island was Albion, the whole set of islands called Britannic." HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON, 7 the exception of a tribute, more readily promised than it was paid, the freedom of their native wilds. For nearly a century from this period, Rome and her nominal subjects maintained a friendly intercourse, until it suffered inter- ruption in the reign of Claudius, when the Southern coast, with all the adjacent inland country, was secured by the conquerors, after a protracted, but ineffectual resistance. Their forts and colonies long overawed, without breaking the Britons' spirit ; and Caractacus, by his revolt, and a war of nine years, taught the invaders not to practice too far on their endurance. Thirty years of submission, however, made them forget the lesson ; the indignities offered Boadicea, "the British warrior queen"; caused another revolt, in which perished more than three score thousand Romans ; this continued until a victory gained, with immense slaughter by the Emperor's general, Paulinus, terminated the struggles, and with them the liberties of Britain. The Roman laws and customs, habits and arms, language and manners, baths and feasts, studies and bearing, were intro- duced, and, in some provinces, became general ; in short, the Britons seem, with the exception of ravages on their northern frontier, to have passed in security, the long and turbulent period which announced the decline, and sub- sequent fall of the empire. The final departure of the Romans, a.d. 448, left them open to a renewal of these ravages, by their enemies, the Picts and Scots, whose first assaults indeed might be dis- regarded under the more sweeping horrors of famine. This affliction proved transient, but it added to their previous weakness, already too much impaired by a general laxity 8 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON, of morals ; and, as the only resource left, Vortigern,* their unworthy ruler, sought aid from the Saxons. f Under Hengist and Horsa,| these deceitful friends learned to despise the weakness of both parties ; the northern frontier, which was assigned them to defend, afforded shelter but to a fresh horde of assailants ; and the Britons were soon driven again to contend in arms, for their rights and property. The defeat and death of Horsa seemed at first to favour their righteous cause, and the successes gained against them by the renowned Prince Arthur long afforded theme for romance§ and lay ; but the short sword and close attack of the Pagans, for such the Saxons were, gradually prevailed over the missiles of the defenders. Some fled to found for themselves a new name and country on the opposite shores of Bretagne : others sought refuge among the fast- nesses of the West, and there, while the Saxons overran all the fairer portions of the island, long maintained them- selves in a rugged state of freedom. *The loves of this British Prince, and Ronix or Rowena, the daughter of Hengist, are immortahzed in the well-known origin of the wassail cup : " Leiver King, wacth heil," said the damsel; " drinke-heil," rephed Vortigem, and saluted the fair Saxon, who — according at least to the metrical version of the tale — was net slow to return the thrilling compliment : — tEbc Hung satti as tbc ftnigbt gan ftcn S)rinhc=bcil smilanS IRowcn IRowcn ^ranf? as hire list Bnii gave tbc Iking s^nc bim ftist. t" The Saxons dressed with some degree of elegance, a luxuiy unknown to the Britons ; the women used linen garments, trimmed and striped with purple ; their hair was bound in wreaths, or fell in curls on their shoulders, their arms were bare and their bosoms uncovered." — Lorii Lyttelton'' s Letters. JThey are called by Gildas, and from him by Bede, the sons of Woden — a mythology invented, as is probable, by the Welsh bards, to palliate their country's defeat. — Stilliiigjleet, Orig. Brit. §It is to be regretted that so much of romantic scandal has found its way into volumes of sober history. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. q Hooker, the antiquary, who was chamberlain of Exeter in Elizabeth's reign, tells us, that they called their territories Danmonia,*' the Country of the Vallies, and that it once stretched eastward, as far as the Belgse ( Firholg) or Somerset; a boundary that, with some partial encroachments made and recovered during the period of the Heptarchy,! they main- tained until all England became united into one kingdom under Egbert, a.d. 830, cir. this monarch met the Britons, whose territory he had overrun, and their new allies, the Danes, on Henges-down, and totally defeated them there. A curious document, yet in existence, shews the result of this victory ; the Britons constituted a tribe retaining the right of self-government as heretofore, subject, however, to the supremacy of the Anglo Saxon monarch : the river Exe formed the line of demarcation between the two races, on which the peaceful of both parties, notwithstanding some penal statutes to the exclusion of the conquered, appear to have tenanted Exeter in common. The energies of the warlike, yet learned Alfred,]: were of necessity directed against his formidable invaders, § but under Athelstane, "the lord of earls and giver of bracelets,' their subjection became complete : a pitched battle was fought near Exeter, *" William of Malmesburj', Florence of Worcester, Roger of Rouedon, and others stile Devonshire by name Domnoina, perhaps all from E)lltt nCitlt, '•''■, low valleys in British; wherein are most habitations of the couiitiy, as judicious Camden teaches me." — Drayton's l\i/yolbion, (note). TThe inhabitants seem to have been known by the designation of Defnstt'ttas, or Devnsoettas. :JWe may regret, but must give u]), the spurious reproof of the neat- herd's wife, " That he was good at eating cakes, but bad at turning them." §The Danish invasions, strictly speaking, did not begin until a century later; we know some of these piratical chiefs to have been Noi-wegians, and it is most probable that they chielly belonged to that nation. 10 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. (Caeriske) probably on Haldon Hill, in which the Britons suffered a total defeat ;* all resistance was crushed at once, the territory between the Exe and the Tamar fell to the con- querors, and Devonshire became for ever a part of England. The restless northern tribes, who under the appellation of Norsemen, or Danes, had at first abetted only the dissensions of this island, became in the end, its most destructive invaders : they grew more particularly formidable as such, a short time prior to the accession of Alfred, in the begin- ning of whose reign they again landed, from a fleet of one hundred ships, and laid siege to Exeter, which city was at that time relieved by him in person. About the same period, Hubba, a chieftain, who spread devastation and slaughter in his course, entered the mouth of the River Taw in this county ; and it affords an instance of the terror these buccaneers of the olden day inspired, that he was said to carry an enchanted banner: the marauder w^as, however, encountered and slain by Odune, earl of Devonshire, and his famous standard — called Reafan, taken, — which bore the figure of a raven, wrougTit on it, with magical incantations by Hubba's three sisters. f The cool yet determined, policy of Alfred, enabled him to check, even when he had not force enough to oppose, the invaders; he taught them to respect the power of the English name then in its infancy ; and left to his successors a hard task — to stem the ever- swelling torrent. *Carew states that Athelstane imposed on Howell, King of the Cornish, a yearly tribute of £20 in gold, ^"300 in silver ; 25 oxen, and hunting hounds and hawks at discretion; but it may be doubted whether such person as Howell ever existed. tStow calls them the daughters of Lodbrok, " 'Tis the woof of \'ictoiy." — Grey's Fatal Sisters. HISTORY OF OKEHAAIPTOX. I I Athelstane's victory over the Danmonii had been pre- ceded b}' one in Northumbria,* where a tribe of this wild people had thrown off the allegiance they had been forced to acknowledge. But the swarm was dispersed only, not destroyed. In the 19th Ethelred, A.D. 997, the then important post of Lydford,f Tavistock, with its richly endowed Abbey, and Weeced-port — now Bideford — became the site of their ravages : at this last place the Danes were again defeated, but victory was purchased by the life of the earlderman Goda. Roger of Hovedon mentions a battle, attended with fearful slaughter, which took place at Pinhoe, near E.xeter ; and Sir Richard Baker, in his chronicle, gives a long list of enormities committed at this last place, two years later, when, after an obstinate defence, only terminated by treachery, it was sacked on the 27th of August, A.D. 1003. The establishment of the Danish monarchy brought a release from these evils, though the happy effect was in no small degree promoted by another cause, the invaders conversion to Christianity,^ the sacred influence of the gospel insensibly softening their rugged and unsocial passions : still their reign was too brief to effect much ; within half a century the Normans took possession of this realm, *The story of Anlaf, the minstrel here, is but anotlier edition of Alfred's similar exploit ; and both perhaps the mere invention of the gleenien. ■ tin the reifjn of Edward the Confessor, this was a free burg;, and contained within the walls, as appears by the charter, one hundred and forty burgesses. J" The work — begun A.D. 596, by the preaching of St. Augustine, a Benedictine friar, and forty monks of that fraternity — was accomjilishcd without violence or compulsion ; the sword of the sjiirit was found sufficient for the holy purpose, and the ruins of our Saxon idolatry were not stained l)y the blood of one martyr." — Waddington's History of the Church. SECTION II. " Life's but a walking shadow, a poor player Who frets and struts his hour upon the stage And then is nothing." — Shakspere. Synopsis of the barony of Okehampton, and its descent, as given by Sir William Pole, from the records in the Tower, Exchequer, &c. I. — Line of the Shrievalty. Domesday. — Baldwyn, the Sheriff of Devon. Henry I. — Richard de Brionys, son of Baldwyn Sheriff. Stephen. — Adela, Lady of Okehampton, Vicecometissa, died 1 142. Ranulph Avenel,'^' baron. Robert Fitzroy, baron. Richard L — Hawvis de Aincourt widow of William Courtenay, baroness and Sheriff. Henry HL — Robert Courtenay, baron, John Courtenay, Knight, baron. William Courtenay of Musbiry Knight, his brother. Edward L — Hugh Courtenay, Knight, baron, died 20 Ed. L n. — Elder Line of Courtenay. Edward HL — Hugh Courtenay, baron and Earl, died 14 Ed. HL Hugh Courtenay, baron and earl, died 51 Ed. HL Hugh Lord Courtenay. ^ ^^^^ before Hugh son of the above. > Sir Edward, the earl's 2nd son. ) ^he carl. *Avenel of Shepewas ; Arms — three spred eglets. — Pole. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTOX. I3 Richard II. — Edward Counenay (the blind earl) son of Sir Edward, died 7 Henry V. Edward Lord Courtenay, Knight of the Bath. Henry V. — Hugh Courtenay (blind earl's 2nd son) baron and earl, died 10 Henry V. Plcnry VI. — Thomas Courtenay, baron and earl, died A.D. 1+58. Edward IV. — Thomas Courtenay, baron and earl, beheaded I. Edward IV. Henry Courtenay, baron and earl, beheaded. 8. Edward IV. John Courtenay, baron and earl slain at Tewkesbury 10. Ed. IV. Charles I. — Lord John ]\Iohun, baron of Okehampton. Humfry Stafford, of Southwike,* created earl of Devonshire, and lord of Okehampton, 9. Edward IV, and beheaded the same year. III. — Second Line of Courtenay. Henry VII.- — Edward Courtenay, earl of Devon, lord of Okehampton and Plimpton died i Henry 8th. Henry VIII. — William Courtenay, earl and baron, died 3 Henry VIII. Henry Courtenay, earl and INIarquis of Exeter, beheaded A.D. 1538. ]\Iary. — Edward Courtenay, restored as earl of Devon, lord of Okehampton and Plimpton, died 4. Oct. 1556. *Arms. — Or, a chevron gules, Tuithin a border engrailed, sable. SECTION III. " Remember the glories of Brian the brave." — Moore. The Barons of Okehampton. /.^ 1 L G R I M of beauty, whoever thou art, that seekest to amuse and, may we hope, inform thy wanderings over this picturesque old town and its environs, stand with us for a few moments at one entrance of it, in the angle formed by the south abutment of the eastern bridge. How closely in keeping with its ancient structure is everything that one sees there ; or, to write more correctly, how time appears to have blended the works of man into harmony with nature! The broad ivy-grown wall toppling over a stream that brawls along its pebbly margin beneath ; the antique lattices that peep out from attics where slept the menials of some wealthy burgess of the olden day, and whence too his good old dame's waiting woman might have been wont to cast sly glances at the passengers on the bridge ; the umbrageous trees that screen the liver where it gushes on you as fresh from its fountain rock ; the pendulous old sign that creaks welcome HISTORY OF OK.EHAMPTON. 15 to man and horse over the wide archway of the hostel on )-our left ; the suburban farm-yard, with its tenant donkey gazing wistfully through a wicket that opens towards the grateful stream ; the little chantry-tower, with its bell, and time embrowned pinnacles peering over the chimney-tops that cluster thick about it : — gentle wanderer, if thou hast not an eye to detect, and withal, a heart to feel, the romantic beauties of the spot, our researches can avail thee nothing ; but, if otherwise, thou mayst go on to read and learn as follows : — Okehampton, spelt in Domesday book Ockmenton, or the town on the Ock,* was, as we gather from this circum- stance, in existence prior to the Norman conquest : it is mentioned in that survey as having a castle, four burgesses, and a market. Indeed the term included in its name, — " hampton," which signifies a town with inhabitants, as a Saxon word seems to establish its claim to antiquity. However this may be, we find that, soon after the battle of Hastings, this place was conferred on one of the many noble adventurers who followed the Norman standard ; this wasf Baldwin De Brionys, surnamed De Molis, and De Sap, the second son of Gilbert Crispin,]: who was descended with the bend sinister, from Richard Duke of Normandy, and consequently, in no remote degree allied to the Conqueror himself. Baldwin was placed in command of the fortress *Ock, from Osc, (water) but more probably from A7vch, signifying vigour, liveliness. — MSS published in Chappie's General Description. t" P.al(lwinus vicecomes tenet dc Domino rege Ockmentum, et ibi sedet castcllum, et habet ibi burgenses (juatuor, el mercatum." ^Crispin's father was Godfrey, count of Ewe, natural son of Richard, the Conqueror's grandfather. 1 6 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTOK. (Rougemont) erected at Exeter by William, after he had recovered that city from Githa ; and it is usual to attribute to him the building of Okehampton Castle. De Brionys was then invested with the honour and castle of Okehampton ; he also held the shrievalty of the county ;* an office made hereditary in his family, the barony, and its dependencies, being held in fief, immediate under the crown by them, on the tenure of ninety-two knights' service. This feudal lord was succeeded by his son, Richard Fitzbaldwin,f who dying without issue (2 Stephen), the barony and lands fell to his sister Adeliza, and, on her demise,^ to INIawd or Matilda, daughter of Robert Avranches, son of De Briony's youngest child, the lady Emma, by a second marriage. § Mawd's first husband was the lord of Aincourt ; and after his death she became wife to Robert Fitz Ede, natural son of Henry I. : two daughters were the issue of these marriages, the eldest, Hawise D'Aincourt, who seems to have held the *Hooker says that this office was liist conferred on his son: — " In this bishop's time (Leofiicus), Richard, a nobleman of Xormandy, the son of Baldwin De Brionys, and Albreda, niece to the Conqueror, was made baron of Okehampton, warder of the castle of Exeter, and Viscomit of Devon." — Catalogue of the Bishops of Exeter. tHe gave Floier-hayes to be holden under him and his heirs, by half a knight's fee ; and whenever the high lord should breakfast or eat in Exe island, the tenant, seemly clad, and with a napkin on his shoulder, should offer him drink of ^\^ne out of a silver goblet. Arms of Floir of Floir- hayes ; sable, a che-vron between three arivivs, argent, and sable, three arrows within a border, engrailed, argent. |She died August 24th 1142, and was buried in the chapel of Ford. Adeliza had appointed Ralph or Randolph Avemiel, her sister's eldest son, heir to the barony, but it was found, at an assize, that Richard had made the knights and tenants swear fealty to Maud's father, then dead. §This is the descent Sir W. Pole gives ; it differs from that in the register of Ford Abbey, which he expressly affirms to be false. Ml.sTokv ol'- okkHAMi'JoN. 17 manly office of Viscount or Sheriff, and Matilda Fitz Ede ; they were assigned as wards to, and after bestowed in marriage by Ilrnry Plantagenet, on Reginald Courtenay, a Norman kniglit, who came over in the train of Queen Eleanor;* and his brother William. The elder, Rainaud or Reginald, f to whom Hawise brought the barony of Oke- hampton,:]: was Lord of Courtenay and Montargis, and had served in the Crusades ; he was a widower, and had given his daughter, Elizabeth, with an ample dowry, to Peter, the son of Louis le Gros, before his arrival in England : an evidence of his power, if not his virtue, is preserved in the complaint of a count of Campaigne to the French Regent, that he had stripped and imprisoned several merchants, after they had satisfied the King's duties. He had been of service to Henry, in procuring him his divorced queen, and what might have been thought of more value, his rich dowry of Aquitaine.§ On the death of Reginald Courtena}-, his son and successor Robert obtained his hereditary rights in the entire lordships *The roll of Battle Abbey mentions that the Courtenays came into England at the Conquest, but this does not appear from other authorities, and Fuller observes that the roll has been interpolated. tReginald's descent from the royal line of t^rance, invented by the monks of Ford, publisiied by Hooker, and entertained by Camden and Dugdale, is repugnant to time and truth : according to the clearer testi- mony of M. Bouchet, he was the son of Milo, the son of Joscelin, the son of Athon whose father was a castellan in (iatinois. JCleaveland lias given reasons for difTering from Sir W. Pole's Genealogy and Rennet's Parochial Antiquities, — where Hawise is mentioned as the widow of William, so?i of Reginald. ^Everything in the power of the crown — and that j)owci was not light— in those days became venal : in the 11. John, Alicia de Komclie, \\idow f)f Robert Courtenay, sherifT of Cund)crlaiKl, |iaitl a fine of /.500, ten palfreys, and ten oxen, to have a reasonable dower assigTied her out of his lands and those of a former husband ; also that she might not be compelled to marry again. B 1 8 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. of Okehampton, together with the Castle of Exeter and the charge of the whole county ; not however, until he had redeemed them out of the King's hands by homage, and a fine of twelve hundred marks. Presently after, Robert agreed to serve the crown for one whole year commencing from the octaves of St. John the Baptist, with twenty men at arms, some of whom were arquebusiers, — the whole to be maintained at his own charge. Henry III. on his acces- sion,* took into his own hand the Castle of Exeter and several others, when the lords Courtenay lost the title of Viscount or Sheriff, as well as the office, in which they could never get reinstated. Robert, who died at his manor house of Iwerne in the county of Dorset, July 26, A.D. 1242, 26 Henry HI., and was buried in the chancel of the church there — married into the family of Rivers, f or Redvers, or De Ripariis, Earls of Devon ; and on that line becoming extinct, J (20 Edward I.), his descendant succeeded to the title. Robert De Courtenay, (4. Henry HI.) gave the King a palfrey to hold a fair yearly in his manor of Okehampton, on the vigil and feast day of St. Thomas the Apostle. § *The leiger book of Okehampton states that the shrievalty continued with the barony, until the time of John de Courtenay (to the 16 Henry III., according to Chappie's MS.) ; but Sir \V. Pole gives a list, begin- ning with Henry's accession. t" Brooke, Yorke Herald, and others, write that one Sir Peter Prous, lord of Gidleigh, should marry Mary, the widowe of Sir Robert Courtenay, and daughter of William de Vernon, erle of Devon by Mabil — which I can hardly admyte without better proofe than theire alligacion." — Sir W. Pole's Collectiotis. JBy the death of Isabella de Fortibus, countess of Albemarle. $This seems to be the origin of what is called " the great market " held on the Saturday before Christmas day. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. tg John De Courtenay, who inherited his father's fief and honour, but never received the King's writ of summons to parliament ;* on doing homage, had livery of his lands granted him ; he copied his ancestors in their attachment to the monks of Ford, to which house, however, he was the last benefactor of his family — a matter perhaps the more excus- able as he proved the last who benefitted by their prayers : the next baron could disregard his father's confidence in those prayers, and the preservation, in a storm at sea,f which rewarded it, and what was still worse in the sight of those holy men, wronged their interests, and braved their malison. John, Lord Courtenay deceased 3rd May, 1273, and was buried at Ford ; he left to the abbey his body, his armour, the hearse that should convey him to the grave, with all its furniture, and a legacy of £^0 sterling : he married Isabel De Vere, daughter of the Earl of Oxford. The sum of one hundred pounds, paid for relief of his patrimony, (4 Edward I.,) by Lord Hugh Courtenay, then in his twenty-sixth year, was exacted, we are told, on account of his revenue being equal to an earldom. It affords a curious comment on the times, to find the possessor of such a fief enforcing against the spiritual protegees of his house claims for the supply of "one waggon and horse and two chargers, or the same number of palfreys, at his option to *The constitution of the upper house of parliament, especially as to the distinction, which originated temp. Ed. I., between barons by tenure and those by writ, rests in much obscurity to the present hour ; chronicle, record, and journal have been searched on this difficult question, without elucidating it. tSee Cleveland's extract from the register : the shipmaster's irreligion was, we may hope, like that of his compeer in the story of " Chaubert the Misanthrope." — British Essayists, 32, 15. lO HISTORY OF GKEkAMtTOJJ. be kept for him in the time of war ; also that the monks should take charge of a bitch-hound with her whelps to rear until twelve months old."* The holv men invoked the l^Iessed Virgin to shield them from such oppression ; they took a step of greater risk in leaving the service and its arrears, unpaid: on St. Lawrence's day 1288, Lord Hugh sent a train of his dependents, who drove away all their cattle in the grange at Westford, together with the beeves then at plough, to the part of Dartmoor near his castle. f I'his baron died 28th February, 1291, and was interred at Cowicke, where, almost thirty years later, the remains of his wife Eleanor Dispenser, were deposited near him. *Genealogical history of the Courtenays. fLord Hugh seems to have held, as two centuries later thought young Pierre du Tenail, (better known as the Chevalier Bayard) — that this wab c eric ot Dcvonsbecrc "Wllitb Ikatc mv> wvfcll to mcc full C)crc lUcc l^vcD toficatbcr VoXVo. t'sve gcare Cbat wee spent wee baD ITbat wee left wee lost Cbat wee gave wee bave.ir *Two shillings per tun on wine, and sixpence per pound on merchandize : Rowe gives this as the first instance of tonnage and poundage. tA tun of ordinary wine was sold at this time for a mark, and the rest made but twenty shillings. — Cleaveland. JHe was once engaged at Topsham in trying some rioters, who had put the lord primate's messenger in bodily fear, and compelled him to eat the ■wax uf the Archbishop'' s seal. §It appears by this Earl's will, which bears date at Tiverton, June 29, 1419, that he directed his body to be buried at Ford Abbey. II Edward, the blind Earl, married Matilda, daughter of the Lord Camoys.— Pole. UThe inscription was on tlieir tomb in Tiverton churchyard, but had been effaced in Risdon's time : Tdbbon gives Mabel as the lady's name ; she was Countess to William APPENDIX A.— SECTION VI. " The boast of heraldry, the pomp of power, And all that beauty, all that wealth ere gave. Await alike th' inevitable hour. The paths of glory lead but to the grave." — Gray. E may now make a summary estimate, in chai-acter and fortune of the family* who so long held the castle and lordship of this town. The blot on their primitive escutcheon is palliated, not excused, by the attested licence of the times ; nor will the register of Ford Abbey, and its minutely detailed grievances, weigh much in our appreciation of the baron Hugh : tlie piety, or compunction of his ancestors, had flowed in a liberal stream toward the Cliurch, and it is a severe but true remark, that the recipient, not the tlonor, proves most forgetful of a benefit. If the first earl shewed himself " sudden and quick in quaiTel," somewhat tenacious of his rights against an aspiring bishop and discontented burgheis, we may call to mind, that Stapledon's influence was exerted to bar those rights, and the citizens at one time threatened his life. The merits of the Courtenays were not seen in the land senice only ; although three brothers knighted on the same tield of battle will testify that they shared its dangers as well as honours. The expert tactics, personal bravery, and social virtues of earl Edward are beyond all comment ; the former have been proudly read in the annals and nobly emulated in the feats of " the mariners of England ;" nor do the latter rest on the single testimony of a suspected epitaph. Happy if the aflHiction of his after life had not changed his name from Xhe good, to that of the bliiidf *For a succinct account of the " illustrious but unfortunate line of Courtenay," the reader may consult Gibbon's well known degression on its origin, and condition in the three principal branches of Kdessa, France and lingland, at the sixty-lirst chapter of his lifeline ami Jail t^ Nr'^v ^St ^^K^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^m^ SECTION VIII.— PART I. Pause, stranger, here ; and if enthusiast thou, Ascend this path ; and drink the noon-tide air, In coohiess rising from yon crisped stream Kissed by soft gales ; while overhead the sky Freckled with azure breathes of heavenly balm. Here view, as o'er thee steals the olden time, Those prostrate fragments mouldering — fresh like life And as thy footsteps thread the arch-ways broad, Darkened by self-sown foliage, clustering down In wild profusion, let thy fancy paint Their deep unutterable tale of years. Here Ruin mocks Ambition ; here she stands To show that all is vanity ! Stay then, And \-iew thine own ine^•itable fate ; Though, stranger, still thy wayward heart contemn Plain competence and peace, secured state.* OkEHAMPTON CASTLE.f CARCE any branch of antiquarian research has attracted so little attention as that which re- lates to military architecture: such specimens as now remain are nearly all of late introduc- tion ; but whether we may rank them with the improvements introduced into the west by the crusaders is doubtful. Alfred, however, seems to have been the first of our princes with whom the *The effusion of the local muse here quoted was contributed to tlie native antiquarian, by the waiter's wdow, Mrs. Howard, of Eton. tOkehampton Castle, built 1058. — Salmon's Chronolo-ry. o CO ■< o o a. •I zn UJ ::^ O HISTORY OF OKKllAMl'lON. 45 bnildinp^ of castles became an object of national policy : |-'.iriei.la, liis (laii,a;hter, govi-rness of .Meicia, imitating; tlir example of her unrivalled father, built not less than eight castles, to resist the incursions of the Danes. A still more remarkable instance of the knowledge of castle-building at a short period subsequent to this, may be found in the re-building of Exeter by Athelstane, who died in 941, " Urbeni illam turribus munivit," — he fortified that city with towers and battlements, constructed of square stones.* And from the few remains of the fortifications of this period we find, that the walls precisely answer such description. Still the deficiency of strong posts in the island, during every period of the Anglo-Saxon history, may be constantly observed, and it is more than probable that to this defect, we may attribute the defeat of Harold, since it became necessary that all should be risked upon the issue of a single battle. Conscious of this deficiency, William excelled all his predecessors in building castles, and greatly harassed his subjects with these works ;f all his earls, barons, and even prelates imitated his example ; as it was the first care of every one who received the grant of an estate from the crown, to build a castle upon it for his defence and residence. J In the turbulent reign of Stephen, says the writer of the Saxon Chronicle, every one who was able, built a castle, so that tlie poor peoi)le were worn out with the toil of these *\Villiain of Malmesbury. t.Matthew Paris. JMalmcshury tells us llial the ;,rieat (listincliou l)ctween tlic An^;lo- Saxon nobility, and the iMeneli or Xoniian was, that tlie latter built nia;,'nirieeiit and stately castles ; whereas the former consumed their immense Ibrluues in riot and liospitality in mean houses. 4b HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTO??. buildings, and the whole kingdom was covered with castles. Stephen began to repent, although too late, that he had granted license to so many of his subjects to build castles within their own grounds."^' An art so much practised, as architecture was at this period, must have been much improved. That it really was so will appear from the following very brief description of the most common form and structure of a royal castle, or of that of a great earl, baron, or prelate of that time ; and, as these castles served both for residence and defence, this description will serve both for an account of the domestic and military architecture then adopted, as this two-fold purpose cannot well be separated. f The situation of the castles of the Anglo-Norman kings and barons was most commonly on an eminence, and near a river, a position, on several accounts, eligible. The whole site of the Castle was surrounded by a deep and broad ditch (fosse), sometimes filled with water, and sometimes dry before the great gate was an outwork (barbican or antemtiralj a strong high wall, with turrets on it, designed for the defence of the gate and *Holiiished. tAmong the feudal names, sometime connected with, or now extant in this neighbourhood, which occur on the roll of Battle Abbey, are those of: Aincourt, Bastard, Hamelin, St. Legere, Ai-undel, Camois, Lacy, San ford, Amerenges, Chament, Luny, Sent John, Bohun, Curtenay, Mowne, Tracey, Bourcher, Dispencere, Morreis' Talbot, Browne, De la Pole, Malet, Tirell, Burnell, Durand, Morton, \'esey, Baudwin, Dunsterville, Peiy, Valence, Beaumont, Gurnay, Pomeroy, Ward, Burdon, Giffard, Ridell, Wivell, Btyan, Hussee, Rous. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 47 drawbridge. On the inside of the ditch stood the walls of the castle about eight or ten feet thick, and between twenty and thirty feet high, with a parapet, and a kind of embrasures (crenneh) on the top. On this wall at proper distances, square towers, of two and three stories high, were built, which served for lodging some of the principal officers of the proprietor of the castle, and for other purposes ; and on the inside were erected lodgings for the common servants or retainers, granaries, storehouses, and other menial offices. On the top of this wall, and on the flat roofs of these buildings, stood the defenders of the castle, when it was besieged, and thence discharged arrows, darts, and stones, on the besiegers. The great gate of the castle stood in the course of this wall, and was strongly fortified with a tower on each side, and rooms over the passage, which was closed with thick folding-doors of oak, often plated with iron and with an iron portcullis or gate let down from above. Within this outward wall, in the largest and most perfect castles, was a large open space or court, (outer hayJc, or halliwii) in which stood commonly a church or chapel. Inside this was another ditch, wall, gate, and towers, inclosing the inner bayle, within which the chief tower (keep or donjon)^' was built. At one end of the great halls of castles, palaces and monasteries, there was a place {liais) raised a little above the rest of the floor, where the chief table stood, at which persons of the highest rank dined. Though there were unquestionably great variations in the structure of palaces *The donjon, in its proper significance, means the strongest part of a feudal castle ; a high square tower, with walls of tremendous thickness, situated in the centre of the other buildings, from which however it was usually detached, it contained the great hall, and principal rooms of state for solemn occasions, and also the prison of tlic fortress. — Sir "W. .Scott. 48 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. and castles in this period, yet the most complete and macrnificent of them seem to have been constructed on the above plan.f In process of ages those ancient castles underwent very considerable alterations. After the age of Edward I. we find another kind of castle, bearing more resemblance to modern palaces : the first of these was that of Windsor, built by Edward III., who employed William of Wykeham as his architect. To these venerable piles succeeded the castellated houses ; mansions adorned with turrets and battlements, but utterly incapable of defence, except against a rude mob armed with clubs and staves, on whom the gates might be shut ; yet still, mansions almost quite devoid of all real elegance, or comfortable convenience : at the same time however, they discover marks of economy and good management, which enabled their hospitable lords to support their rude revels, and to keep up their state, even better than many of their more refined successors. After this kind of building, the magnificent quadrangular houses of Henry VIII. succeeded. Without referring to the stately edifices of Elizabeth's reign, it may be enough to add, that here ends the history of the English castle.*' ■f Such, to give an example, was the famous castle of Bedford, as appears from the following account of the manner in which it was taken by Heniy III., A.D., 1224. The castle was taken by four assaults. "In the first was taken the barbacan ; in the second, the outer ballia ; at the third attack, the wall by the old tower was thrown down by the miners, where, with great danger, they possessed themselves of the inner ballia, through a chink ; at the fourth assault, the miners set fire to the tower so that the smoke burst out as the tower itself was cloven to that degree, as to show visibly some broad chinks; whereuj)on the enemy surrendered." — Matthew Paris. *i\IS. communication from the Rev. W. Evans, of Parkwood, to whose kindness we are also indebted for several notes appended to this and the following section. HISTORY OF OKFHAMPTON. 49 Centuries have rolled away since the Courtenay banner last floated over the turrets of their original hold in England. By an act of " senseless barbarism," as Warner, in his " Walk through Devonshire" justly terms it, Henry VIII. (A.D. 1539), soon after the attainder and execution of the Marquis of Exeter, dismantled and laid in ruins the Castle of Okehampton, a favoured seat of his family, although, since the accession to the earldom it had ceased to be their constant residence.* The fortress, when in its perfect state, " occupied the summit and declivity of a conoidal mount or eminence, which is now so thickly studded with trees, that, although the niins are of great extent and magnitude, the keep, and a small fragment northward, are alone perceptible from the high road : the mouldering turrets, and ivy-clad ruins of the castle appear particularly striking from their combination with the surrounding scenery."f We have seen that the Anglo-Saxons neglected military architecture, thus subjecting themselves to the charge of reckless courage or indolent neglect, although it is probable that the founder of Okehampton Castle may have been an exception to the general rule. " When the Normans," says a late writer,! " i'^ their two-fold pursuit of powei and self defence, found the remains of an ancient building on a site which suited them, they often added their own work :" the fortress we are about to examine, although many of its parts are in the Pointed or Norman-Gothic style, displays also traces of the rounded arch, commonly called Saxon. And *Tlic earls commonly passed the summer months here ; their place of winter residence was at Tiverton, and latterly Caleombe (Colcombe) castle. tBritton's Devonshire. JWho was this ? D 50 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. yet the Saxon origin of this edifice, if indeed it be of such, rests on slight grounds ; a tradition to that effect, which seems to have been embodied in a metrical version by Dr. John Shebbeare, a physician, born at Bideford in 1709, though better known as a violent party writer : — the follow- ing fragments of it are all that have reached us. Aspice vmroriim moles preruptaqiie saxa Adhiic spirant imperiosa ininas. I sing of ruined domes and war's alanns, Of Eeras past and fatal Beauty's* harms; Nor shall the nnise have strung her harp in vain, If you with pleased attention hear her strain. A.D. 959. In early clays, when Edgar Albion swayed. And Ordgar's power Devonia's youth obeyed. Then all the dome magnificent appeared. Or lov'd for pleasure or for war rever'd, Slow sullen waters round the palace flow'd With burnished arms the massy fortress glowed ; A warlike grace the battlements had on The vaulted roof with figured ceiling shone ; There stood the font that held the holy wave, And there the sacred rites the altar gave ; Here mirth and banquets filled the spacious hall, ■ Music to melt or elevate the soul. And sparkling wine that laughed out o'er the bowl ; Here whilst some youth, with fixed attentive eyes. The force of animated paint surveys, Where the gay piece triumphal honour shows, Or breathless warrior midst the battle glows ; Prophetic hope, his kindling bosom fires. To equal acts his eager soul aspires. Rapt with the thought, amidst the ideal war, He fights a Mars, or fills a future carr.f *The story of Edgar and the beautiful Elfrida, daughter of the earl of Devon, is well known ; for the local application of it here made, we believe, there is no authority whatever., tMusic, painting and poetry, were then held as necessary accomplishments to a refined education as they are at present. — Lord Lyttelton's Letters, HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 5 I Now to the Park I stretch my aching eyes Where bluish hills and silver rocks arise, A thousand shades diversify the scene, A thousand tints enamel all the green. — [Here he describes the battle that occasioned the ruin of the Castle and then goes on to say]— No more such sports the peaceful valley knows. Along the plain the guiltless huntsman goes ; Now from the bush the tim' rous lev'ret flies Xow the fleet hounds pursue him wth their cries, He starts, he turns, he doubles, and he dies. * * * * O Ethelwolfe, how happy had'st thou been, Had thy fond eyes the fatal fiir ne'er seen ; Then had no treason burnt within thy breast No soft concerns thy master's love supprest, Nor treacherous tongue perfidious vows profest ; Still by thy sovereign hadst thou been approved, Still greatly honoured and still greatly loved. :;: * * * Still by the walls the constant Okement* glides, Weeps as it flows and laves the falling sidest. William of Worcester who wrote his Itinerary about the close of the fifteenth century, notices Okehampton Castle thus — Castrum prcnobile ^c Oftcbampton propc viUam Ofccbampton per 12 miliaria ^c 'Cavvstohc versus oricntum ct Eiccst viam, ^luon^am llboma Curtcnav comitis Bcvoniac, cMflcatuiu per 'Cboinam primuin comitcm.J Fons fluminis de Okehampton currit sub castro (supradicto) incipit apud cremere in Thertmore. — W'illehn de Worcestre. ■••From a MS. indited from memorj', which has been kindly shewn us by Thomas Hridfjeman I.uxmore, esqr., Deputy Recorder ot Okehampton, and a zealous guardian of its antiquities. — Sfet in exemplum. Jit is most probable that the building received large repairs only from that nobleman. — Grose's Antiquities. 5t HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. On the 26 April, 1836, the writer of this paragraph in company with a clerical friend* spent some hours in a survey of this majestic ruin. We entered the castle over the stone fence near what remains of the barbican, f a massive wall about thirty feet high, where the segment of a gateway in the Pointed style, with a window above, is yet visible. From this to the entrance of the ballium we found the interval to be about forty-eight yards, the gate which has entirely disappeared being placed in a slight recess of the front which, as far as we were enabled to judge, had a spread of fifty-four feet. On the left, as in the south-east corner of the building, is the only portion of the roof that remains, it covers two small apartments:]: within what was probably the guard-room, and shows three rounded arches. Beyond these rooms, and in a line with the south wall, are two large and perfectly similar erections, each of two stories, communicating with each other above and below by very curious arcades or vaulted passages imbedded in the solid masonry of the outer wall. The basement rooms, with their horizontal loop-holes and the marks of iron bars that have been long since wrested out, point vividly to what might have been their former destination ; "The loop-hole glates where captives weep"§ — While in the superior range, the social hearth, the deep, but lofty windows, both within and without towards the river, *Rev. Montague Wynyard, curate oi Bilston (Belston). tit has been supposed that a causeway and drawbridge over the river once existed ; but the broken ground without the barbacan may have been caused by the working of a mill that once stood near it, and which appears in an old view of the castle ruins in possession of the Rev. Richard Holland. XT\\Q floor between them has however disappeared. ^SUn the wall of the chapel we read a memorial of the same strain, although in later days : — V thicfuit captivus belli, 1809. 7//7r 7W; v'^--:-i^i?'-if 1. Vy/<^/ZSZ. mr%mm '^f ^P!:^ "^ ^^-j^^ '^'-^ ^y^'^s i:;^ IN THE CHAPEL, OKEHAMPTON CASTLE. THE PISCINA, CHAPEL, OKEHAMPTON CASTLL IN ST. JAMES'S CHAPEL, OKEHAMPTON. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 53 with their shattered mullions, vestiges of their ancient splendour, inspire more cheerful feelings. These rooms were entered by a door facing westward, and which projects beyond the east end of the chapel. We entered the chapel,* not unconscious of the spot being hallowed ground, and with a catholic feeling that found utterance in the language of its formulary ; and having viewed, and remarked on, the fragment of what seems to have been the window of the ante- chapel — that is, if we may be allowed mentally to supply the west end and screen, of which all vestiges are now lost — we advanced up the choir. But why proceed ? if any among our readers has never seen, or having seen has not felt what the chastened beauty, the solemn retirement of this lovely ruin should inspire — words must utterly fail to suggest them. From all that Time has spared here, the remains of two elegantly arched windows, with a small, but fair propor- tioned niche in the massive outer wall of the Castle itself (it forms the south wall of the chapel) we may judge what it showed when in its undecayed magnificence. f From the chapel — passing over the debris of a wall seven feet thick, containing two small posterns, and evidently of a date anterior to the range just quitted — we ascended the tortuous path, which at present aflfords access to the keep.| This massive, but plain edifice, comprised four apart- ments, the lower one lighted by two loop-holes, the upper, *The embrasures or crennels on the parapet of the chapel are some of the most perfect obser\-ed by us. tThe vicar of Okehampton was to tind a chaplain to ser\'e here. — .Sir W. Pole. :J:The steps leading; to the keep, or rather the upper one, was where pursuivants, heralds, Sec, commonly made proclamation : for the anti- quity of this practice, see 2 Kings ix, 13. 54 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. in the interior of which our attention was drawn as well by the ample hearth and window* adjoining, as also by a curious oratory or small chamber in the south-west corner, being reached by spiral stone stairs to the right of the entrance eastward, and which wound up to the battlements and tower above them. The northern range, although it presents a less imposing coup (Tceil than the parts just quitted, is not without its attraction in the minutiae of arrangement- which we were enabled to trace there. A vacancy between two parallel edifices seems to have afforded transverse access to the ballia by what might have formed the north postern : the buildings west of this, seen in the last stage of decay, appear crumbling into the impending steep of the donjon ; the other, or eastern wing presents a specimen of the Saxon style in its low door beneath, but the exquisite proportion, and massive, though tasteful order of the hearth, windows, and closet above, seem to bespeak the abode of "a lady of high degree." Beyond this, two larger apartments not unlike the last, are closed in by the dilapidated ruin of the east corner, with a vertical loop-hole in the fragment of the inner wall yet standing, that seems to have enfiladed the principal entrance.f *The window of the great hall seems to have been in ancient times, the place of deposit for their scanty library. — — For Eustace much had pored Upon a huge romantic tome, In the hall -window of his home. Imprinted at the antique dome Of Caxton or de Worde. — Scott's Marmion. tWe cannot sufficiently regret that Leland — whose minute and faithful researches are held in merited esteem — did not visit Okehampton castle : passing from Great Torrington to Launceston, he mentions Lydlord bridge only, and that as a place which he had never seen. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTOX. 55 Adieu, proud, though fallen monument of baronial greatness ! When ambition distracts ; when the cares of life oppress ; when discontent harasses, or the liand of affliction bears heavy, it were good for a man to come here and read a " tale of the times of old." SECTION VIIL— PART II. But gin ye be a brugh as auld as me, There'll be, if that date come, I'll wad a boddle Some fewer whigmeleeries in your noddle. — Bums. Okehampton. — The Feudal Charters. «s^ ' EW boroughs of equal antiquity with Okehampton can trace with more clearness the origin and progress of their liberties. We have seen that Baldwin* the Viscount, as he is termed in Domesday book, held this town on the tenure of knight's service : there was also a fine or quit-rent to the crown of four shillings yearly. Robert de Courtenay, in the time of Henry III., treated this place as a free burgh ; but the rights of the burgesses were not merely nominal at a date yet earlier, as appears from the charter itself: it proposes to confirm to them all the liberties and privileges they held in the time of Richard (Fitz Baldwin) and of Robertf the son of Reginald, Maude Abarenges his wife, and of Hawise,J mother of the granter. We are expressly told that the grant is made with *Arms of de Brionys — Cheque, or and azure, over all t'wo bars argent. The same are now borne by the town. tQuery, was this the Lord of Aincourt ? JSig. Havisia de Courtnaye — a woman standing. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 57 the consent and concurrence of the Lady INIary/'' his wife ; and the print of Lord Courtenay's sealf is attested by his brother, Sir Reginald, another Robert of Courtneye, whose name does not appear in Pole's genealogy, and several more. The burgesses were to pay for each burgage annually at the Feast of St. Michael the Archangel, the sum of twelve pence for all services and demands. By this charter the rights of the burgesses are established "in woods and in uplands, in ways and in paths, in common of pastures, in waters and in mills." They might turn their swine to feed in the Lord Courtenay's forest, i.e., each burgess, a sow and four pigs. They were to be free from all manner of toll, and are empowered to elect yearly their own portreeve and a beadle,:]: or crier, " Prepositum et Praeconem." The burgesses continued to enjoy these rights until 20 Edward L, when a controversy arose between them, and Sir Hugh Courtenay, knight, Lord of the barony, in conse- quence of which their privileges became more defined. In a deed executed on the Feast of St. Thomas the Martyr, in that year, the portreeve and commonalty under their common seal, released to the baron their title to common of pasture in all his woods and wastes on the south side of the castle and in other parts of the manor : in return for this " the said port- reeve and commonaltie giving to the said Sir Hugh two ■ *Arms of Prouz of Gidleigh, her second husband.— -.Sai/^, 3 linns ramp- ant, argent, (see page 18). \ Partie per pale, cheque the first side, the otiier plain, over all 2 bars, argent, (note) Sir W. Pole. JAmong " all other tilings appertaining to the view of frank ])leiit, as some of these gentlemen were thought to be themselves ill-affected towards the change, a suspicion their want of energy at the outset tended to confirm, the meeting rather promoted the com- motion than otherwise. As the state of affairs with Scotland, at that time, occupied the attention of government, Sir Peter and Sir Gawen Carew, knights, were dispatched into Devonshire, to aid the local authorities ; a commission in which the Lord Privy Seal Russel was soon after associated. On the arrival of the former, and Sir Piers Courtenay* who was then Sheriff, informing them that the populace, headed by those of Sampford, were in force at Crediton, it was determined again to attempt gentle means in order to quiet them. The attempt however had no better fortune than before : the rioters barricaded the entrance to the town, and although they at first made a show of conference, the gentlemen were denied admission, which was only effected by burning a barn, in which some of the malcontents had posted themselves.! After this, the magistrates returned to Exeter, leaving the people still more exasperated than hitherto.:]: *Piers Courtenay, of Ugbrooke, a younger brother of the Powderham family, married EHzabeth Shilston, and, by her, he came ancestor of Sir Shilston Calmady, of Leawood ; from him descended the late Christopher Hamlyn, of Paschoe, esq., to whose genealogical and other MSS. this little woik stands highly indebted. tThe council subsequently disavowed this proceeding, and when Sir Peter Carew shewed his authority for any such steps under the sign manual, Rich the chancellor confirmed the ]:)rotector's decision that it was insufficient as not having the king's seal attached. ^Reports of temporal grievances contributed to fan the flame nor can : it be denied, but that the lower orders at that time endured many oppressions, and some of no ordinary severity. — Lyttelton. 62 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. Soon after the affair at Crediton, disturbances broke out in a fresh quarter. A gentleman, named Walter Ralegh, had attempted to remonstrate with a woman of St. Mary Clyst, near Exeter, whom he met on the highway, carrying a rosary of beads in her hand. The devotee took this so ill as to publish what he had urged on her, with so many un- warranted additions, that the people flew to arming them- selves, and put their village in a posture of defence. Mr. Ralegh narrowly escaped an attack made on him, but being assisted by a few sailors in his train, found sanctuary in a chapel.* Sir Peter Carew, who headed a deputation from the justices at Exeter to these misguided men, succeeded, not without a musket being levelled at him in the attempt, in establishing a parley with them. Accordingly three gentlemen were admitted within the hamlet and continued their eff"orts to appease the popular discontent, until night- fall. At last the alarm of their friends without had well niarh threatened their safety, by a party attempting to rescue them ; when they were suff"ered to return, having gained nothing beyond a promise of tranquility on the part of the populace, provided the reformation were deferred until the King came of age. The ill success of this conference caused much dissension among the magistrates, some of whom openly reproved their brethren of insincerity to the reformed cause. On the other hand the malcontents were not slow to profit by such a state of things, and Sir Peter Carew had hardly time to join Lord Russel at George- Nenton, in Somersetshire, when they advanced to lay siege *He was subseqently taken prisoner, and kept sometime in rigid con- finement in the tower of St. Sidwell's church in Exeter. — Hooker. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 63 to Exeter, under the conduct of Humfry Arundel, Esq., governor of St. IMichael's jMount, with a motley assemblage of subordinates, lay and clerical,'''' many of them from the lowest grade of society. On the 2nd July, Exeter was closely invested by the rebel army, and soon reduced to great extremities.! It does not however fall within the scope of this paper to relate all that occurred during a close blockade of five weeks, or the cabals which distracted the city, in which were many not well inclined to the royal cause. A successful sally, | in wliich the citizens had captured and brought in some of the rebel ordnance, as bases and slings, gave rise to a quarrel among the most zealous. In this, as we are informed by a contemporary, the daughter of one Master Barnard Duffeld, a person in the service of Lord Russel, not only uttered *The character and fate of Welsh, one of the priests engaged in this revolt, must be given in old Hooker's own words : — " This man had many good things in him ; he was of no great stature, but well set and mighty compact ; he was a veiy good wrestler, shot well both in the long and cross bow, handled his firelock well, was a good woodman, and hardy, and such a one as would not give his head for the polling, nor his beard for the washing. He was hung in chains, on the steeple of St. Thomas' Church, of which he was \icar ; he made no confession, but took his death veiy patiently, and some few in respect of his good qualifications lamented his case." tThe bread soon failed, and the citizens were compelled to resort to puffins, and bran baked in cloths, in order to keep together ; afterwards they were reduced to feed on horse flesh, and soon had to regret the scanty supply of even this unsavoury diet. What held out longest was rice, fish, prunes, raisins, and wine. — Hooker. +The conduct of a Flemish haquebutter in one of these sallies is too much in Falstan"'s style to be omitted : in order to escape the blow of a bill-hook which threatened him, this valiant soldier made show of yielding himself prisoner, then shot the bill-man as he passed by, and "took his s|)oile." The black, or, as sometimes it is called, brown-bill, was a kind of hatchet, the cutting part hooked like a woodman's bill, from the back of which projected a spike, and another at the head. — Grose. 64 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. many unseemly and disrespectful speeches, but struck the mayor in the face ! It appears that she was disappointed in obtaining the release of her father, imprisoned among other causes for using ill language also to his worship the same mayor. The rebels had by this time, after much dissension among themselves in drawing them up, resolved on forwarding to the King certain articles, these went chiefly to uphold the doctrine of transubstantiation ; to maintain the use of the Catholic liturgy, and not, as they quaintly characterised the reformed office, " God's service to be sett foorth as a Christmasse plaie :" they further insisted on the celibacy of the clergy, and the observance of the six articles of the late king. It was plain that a resort to arms must now decide the controversy ; yet the Crown not only issued a general proclamation to the rebels, offering pardon to such as within three days submitted themselves, but also a message* in express reference to their stipulations. While this fruitless negotiation, if it deserves such a term, was pending, the chief commissioner! lay at Honiton with few attendants, and those of doubtful fealty. Indeed so critical had grown his position, in absence of all aid from court, that he thought at one time of retreating into Dorsetshire ; but a timely loan, raised for him by three wealthy merchants of Exeter, followed by reinforcements from the King, put him at length in a condition to meet the rebels who had advanced to meet him as far as Veniton *It has, both in manner and expression, a remarkable accordance with the Book of Homilies, first pubHshed in this reign. tThe lords-lieutenants of counties were first instituted at tliis time. — Strype's Mem. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTOX. 65 Bridge. This was soon forced, not, however without loss, and, although the royal troops received a partial check, being attacked by a fresh body of Cornish insurgents, while engaged in stripping the slain, the rebels were put to flight. Lord Russel deterred from advancing at once on Exeter by a false alarm,* returned to Honiton to await further rein- forcements : these presently joined him, consisting of a body of horse under the command of Lord Grey of Wilton, and others, and three hundred musketeers, f commanded by Baptiste Spinola, a noble Geonese. On the third of August, the royal camp then lying at Woodbury was attacked, but without success, by the rebels of Clyst : it does, however, argue much for the triumph of the King's troops in this skirmish in which a windmill, belonging to the loyalist owner of Woodbury, was destroyed, — that a thanksgiving sermon on the occasion, preached by Coverdale, the Lord Russel's chaplain,:}: was interrupted by the report of a renewed attack. Indeed, the reckless valour of the insurgents, while it drew forth its meed of well deserved applause from the veteran Lord Grey, kept the royal forces in continued apprehension ; what they wanted in discipline they strove to supply by the suddenness of their onslaught. But when this failed, we find the rebels in- variably retreated in disorder, of which a single instance * Raised, says Hooker, by one Joll, his fool. tForeign mercenaries were common in our armies for a long period, they were known as ryters, from a German word signifying horsemen, — also as braban^ons, coterelli, and Flemmings, and really were a set of freebooters of all nations ready to embrace any side for hire. — Grose. iJGovernment had given a commission to three preachers to attend lord Russel, for the purpose of convincing the people of their errors. — Moore's History of Devon. E 66 HISTORY OF OKEHAMTTON. will suffice to shew the extent. An important position at a bridge* near Clyst had been left with no other defence than a solitary arquebuss, and although the rebels succeeded in killing the first who attempted to pass, he was slain in the act of reloading his piece, by a bill-man, who stole on him unperceived from behind. Next morning the army was marching in three divisions to attack the rebels, who had entrenched themselves in the village of Clyst St. Mary, when Sir Thomas Pomeroy, knight, a captain in the insurgent forces, executed a stratagem which succeeded in throwing the royalists into disorder. Concealing himself and a drummer in the line of march, he beat an onset in their rear, on which Lord Russel, thinking he had been surrounded immediately gave orders for retreating ; this was done in such haste, that a train of waggons, laden with ammunition and treasure, was suffered to fall into the hands of the rebels, by whom these things were much wanted. The troops rallied however, and advanced again towards the town, during which service they lost Sir William Francis, f a gentleman of Somerset, who commanded the first division. The resistance was so great that no advantage could be gained over them, until the King's troops had fired the village, when the insurgents made a precipitate retreat, having lost, in slain, burnt in the houses, or drowned in attempting to cross the river, about a thousand men. In the evening, as they lay at Clyst heath, Lord Grey rode to a hill to reconnoitre the enemy, and observed, as he thought, a strong body of men marching *Lord Russel had offered a reward of 400 crowns to any one who should force the passage. fHis helmet was crushed into his skull by the heavy stones thrown on him. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 67 towards the King's camp from Woodbury : the mistake was atttended with fatal consequences to those taken, or who had surrendered themselves at the windmill, and in Clyst, who as a matter of precaution were immediately put to death, " each man dispatching his prisoners." The following night was employed by the rebels, who in part broke up* from before Exeter, in fortifying a position on Clyst heath ; in which they made such progress, masking their ordnance, and taking other precautions, that it became necessary to use circumspection in the attempt to force them from it. Accordingly a body of pioneers was detached to level the fences of the inclosed grounds near them ; and on this being accomplished, the insurgents found themselves assaulted in flank and rear ; a short but desperate conflict, which few or none of these misguided men survived, decided the triumph of the King's cause, and raised the siege of Exeter. f While the commissioner was following up the stern con- sequences of the insurrection, attainting or executing such of the ringleaders as had fallen into his hands, and reward- ing his followers from the produce of the confiscations, his presence became requisite on the original site of the rebellion. The disorders of this warfare seem to have been violent rather than numerous, but popular frenzy raged highest at Sampford : this the following instance may help to evince. *" In their inarches they carried about a crucifix under a canopy, Mliich instead of an altar was set in a cart, accompanied with crosses and candle- ■sticks, bainiers, holy bread, and holy water, both to drive away devils, and also to dull their enemie's swords." — Speed. tLord Russel was now reinforced by a thousand Welsh troops, under .Sir William Herbert, master of the horse ; " they came too late," Hooker observes, " to have any share in the fray, but were very industrious in pillaging the country." 68 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. The reformed religion, the King's proceedings, as it was then called, had found a zealous friend in William Hellions,* a gentleman of that place ; his exertions and remonstrances excited so much the indignation of the insurgents that he was seized and confined in the Church house there. While in this place the prisoner's loyalty induced him to make a last appeal to them, in which his spirit seems to have led him beyond the bounds of prudence. The error cost him his life ; the malcontents became exasperated to that degree, that as he attempted to withdraw, one Githridge, struck him behind with a bill-hook ; in short, notwithstanding his cries for mercy, they cleft him in pieces, and in burying the dismembered fragments, laid them north and south. f The royal army, now swelled by reinforcements to eight thousand strong, marched to attack a line of entrenchments which had been thrown up at Sampford, Sir William Herbert being in command of the advance. The ground before the village, though contested with spirit, was pre- sently carried with trivial loss on the part of the crown ; but a Welsh captain, named Ap Owen,:!: and some others were slain in assaulting a rampart erected at the entrance of the village. After this, the dispirited remains of the insurgents effected a retreat into Somersetshire, where they were eittacked and routed at King's Weston, by Sir Hugh Paulet, the Knight ^Marshall, one of their chief captains, named Cofiin,§ being taken prisoner. *The name occurs in Domesday book, where the wife of Hervey HelHons is mentioned as holding lands under the crown. tAs being tlie body of a confirmed heretic. I Sir William Francis and Ap Owen were both of them buried with militaiy honours in Exeter Cathedral. §He was subsequently executed with Arundel Winslade and other leaders in London. Arms — Azure, a cnisule, 3 bezants. — Pole. THE AVENUE, OKEHAMPTON. SECTION IX.— PART I. From Neustria's coasts, Mctorious AVilliam tou<^lit with horn and voice To cheer the busy hound. — Soiiiervile. Okehampton Park. ROM the followino- original warrant of Oueen Katherine, 1520, sig-ned with her own hand, it r^T^jR^^ appears, that the parish of Okehampton was ^. K^ not inckided with the manors and lands re- stored by Henry VII. — KatrjTie Oueene, — AVe will and command you, that upon the sightte hereof, that ye delj-ver, or cause to be delyvered, unto our tnjsty and well beloved ser\antt John Cruisse of Cnrsham Orcharde, (Cruwys ^lorchard) or to the Biynger hereof, in his name, one buck of season ; to be taken as of our g}-fte owte of owre parke in Ockhampton though any Restrapith, Commandment, had, or mad to the contraiy, that notwithstandinge. Gevj-n at the Manor of Shute, the loth day of Sept. in the i8th year of the raigne of owre Soveraigne Lord Kynge Hemy the 8th.* To owre trusty and ivelbeloved sai~va)it Robert Cruewis, Keeper of owre Parke of Okhampton ; and in his absence to his Deputy or Deputies. When the castle was demolished — this occurred 30 Henry VIII. — this noble and extensive close was disforested, and the game, at least the greater part of it, destroyed. The *^rom Dr. Howard's collection of letters, published 1753. 70 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. King took this step at the suggestion of Richard Pollard,* Esq., then Sheriff, on whom, at the dissolution of the mon- asteries, he bestowed the splendid Abbey of Ford, and who had suggested that profit would accrue to the Crown from its being converted into arable and pasture lands. The Sheriff's scheme, however, proved abortive in all save the umbrage it gave to the neighbouring gentry ; they made heavy complaints against this encroachment on their field sports,! complaints which, without benefiting themselves, ended in diverting the King's favour from the unlucky projector, and we are told that he never smiled afterwards. J In our range over the park and its immediate environs we shall be led to treat of I. — The Roman Road and Fort. The marks of a raised road, skirted in many parts with layers of granite, appears to strengthen the hypothesis§ that has been advanced by a celebrated antiquary, of a Roman road running from Exeter to Stratton by the way of Holsworthy. This conjecture has been formed partly from the circumstance of two fortifications of very remote date occurring in this line, Oldrich and Bradbury ; the latter three miles north of Bratton Clovelly, of an oblong form, 225 feet *Sir Richard Pollard. — he was knighted three years later, — was the son of Sir Richard Pollard of King's-nymet, one of the justices of the common pleas. Arms — Argent, a chevron sable, between three escallops, gules, -with a cressant. — Pole. tThe great interest attached to such pursuits is shewn in that the 7'rcatyses pcrteynying to hawkyng, hitntyng, and fyshynge, with an angle were among tlie first books printed in this countiy by ^^'ynlvyn de Worde in i486: they were composed by dame Juliana Berners, "a gentlewoman endued with excellent giftes both of body and minde." — Holinshed. jCleaveland. §!MSS. by Dr. Bennet, bishop of Cloyne, in Lysons' Magna Britannia. HLSTORV OF OKEHAMriON. 7I bv 1S6, with a single vallum or ditch. We meet with indications of such a road or trackway ascending from the park gate under Halstock, and again though less defined over the scattered clumps of holly growing on its northern declination opposite the Castle. On the other hand, to give the cautious views of a late writer on the same subject, these trackways " possess no characteristic which would lead us to assign their construction to the Roman period of British history ; nor have we historical evidence that any of their roads ran through Danmonium in a direction corresponding to them : but as this relic of antiquity has hitherto leceived so little investigation, our opinions on this subject are not advanced without hesitation, and require further research before they can be considered sufficiently established.* Almost over the precipice, on the eastern verge of the park is a mound of earth whence several other embankments winding round it in a circular form may be distinctly traced ; this has been held to indicate that a Roman camp once existed on the spot. It has been remarked by some writers, but on insufficient authority, that the fortifications of the Britons were con- structed of earth only ; in many parts of this island the remains of strong intrenchments of a very peculiar kind, situate for the most part on natural eminences,! '^^^^ com- *Rev. S. Rowe's Antiquarian Investigations., &c. tThe antiquity of hill-fortresses is apparent from huh' writ ; Samson dwelt on the rock of Elam, and the Israelites, in a time of invasion, jntrenched themselves on Mount Tabor. — Evans. Caesar De Bella Gallico has given the description of a lowland camp : Tacitus, in noticinjj the fastnesses to which the British chief Caractacus retreated, says, " montibus arduis, et, si qua elementer acccdi poteraiit, ii; modum valli saxa praestruit." 72 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. posed of Stone materials, can be attributed to none but this primitive race ; they formed the posts and garrisons of the aborigines, the secure retreat of their wives, and the last resorts in case of defeat. The same strongholds which had been deemed necessary to defend our ancestors from neighbouring rapine or foreign invasion, would naturally become more than ever requisite to maintain in other lands the supremacy over a conquered people. "As the ancient Britons" says a late writer, " after their expulsion to Wales and Cornwall, made frequent attempts to regain their territory, the wise policy of the Romans suggested to them to erect such forts, — that many of them owe their origin to this race appears from their intrenchments, outguards and stations ; although it cannot be denied but that they were afterwards used by the Saxons, and subsequently to them by the piratical Danes."* II. — Halstock Chapel. About a quarter of a mile without the park wall, towards the south-east, in a field called Chapel Lands is the site where tern. Henry III. stood the chapel of St. Michael of Halstock. In a royal mandate for the perambulation of Dartmoor,! addressed to Richard, Earl of Cornwall, and others, the boundary is mentioned as running near the eastern side of this chapel. :[ From that period to the present, the storms of six centuries have wrought their work *Rev. Richard Lewis, as quoted in Chappie's Additions to Risdon's Survey. fRisdon gives a curious account of the rights of the Fengfield men who might enjoy on the moor " all that would do them good, except green oak and venison." :j:Ad vadum proximnm in orientali parte capellaj St. Mich, de Hallgestock, HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTOX. 73 in its destruction. Excepting the line of its foundations, now covered like the rest by the green s\vard, and a path leading to the spot from Belston, with its crossing place over the east Okement still called the Chapel ford, there is little left to point where our forefathers worshipped.'''' Two lonely trees moan to the blast over this fallen memorial of their devotion. But tread lightly as you walk there, wanderer, for the ground is yet holy ; and then go, commune with your own heart and undecayed Nature in the wild glen beneath. For the casual spectator, the spot can possess no common interest ; but for one who is acquainted with the local history of the district, who knows each " bosky bourne and tangled dell," its beauties are enhanced by a thousand associ- ations. He will muse, in the retirement of this lonely glade, on the fallen pomp and circumstance of the Roman creed, the days of the crosier and crucifix, when Superstition could invest the works of Nature as well as those of Art with a charm deep and hallowed. The broad slab crossing a brook that washes the park-gate as you quit it to climb the rugged path to the chapel ruin, seems to debar intrusion within its sacred precincts, a fathom below the bridge and the stream is heard, not seen ; now dashing over a hundred falls, now playing in momentary eddies under a living arcade of copse and briar, a seclusion where the Benedictine Brotherf of the chantry above might come in his black scapulary and cowl, and un- *Thi.s chapel, together with the church of Okeliampton, belonged to the priorj' of Cowicke, the patronage of which had been conferred on De Brionys. t Monks were sent to reside and officiate in the churches appropriated to their house, by turns or by lot, and sometimes by way of penance. ^74 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. seen of all save heaven, perform his matin prayers and ablutions.* Then returning- — but fancy must not break in on the calmer pursuits of the antiquarian. III. — FiTZE Well. Nearly on the ritige of the park, a small spring having a cross of rude sculpture lying in its ooze, has obtained this appellation : it was a custom, until within a late period, for young persons to visit the spot on the morning of Easter- day. The cross, with an inscription denoting the care piety had taken of such places was common in older times ; but there is a tradition, though we do not vouch for its authen- ticity, that this cross has been removed from its position over Halstock chapel. f In a journal kept by Master Richard Shebbeare, sometime Mayor of this borough, and which will find notice in another place, we read, 29 Sept., 1676 — "There was not any water to be seen at Fitze Well, the summer soe hot and dry." IV. — Lady Ho^vARD. Gertrude Courtenay of Landrake — a woman eminent for her accomplishments and personal charms — was descended from the Lady Elizabeth, Lord Edward's great aunt and co- heiress ; she seems to have brought a portion of the baronial *It happened one day that the holy man went secretly on early morn- ing to his pool of water, and there performed his devotions and psalm-songs in the water with naked limbs as his custom was. There heard he suddenly the noise of many horsemen, and with much speed he hastened from the well, for he would not that his devotions should be known to any earthly man in his life-time, but only to the One that ruleth over all. And, in his way, he dropped one of his shoes, &cc. — Legend of St. Neot. t A remarkable statute, passed tern. Henry VIII. enacts that witchcraft, enchantment or sorceiy, practised in digging up, or putting down crosses, should be adjudged as felony, without benefit of clergy. HISTOkY OF OKKHA^iPTON. 75 lands into the family of Fitz of Fitzford; it became, at least, the (linvn- of her daut^htcr hy Sir John Fit/.,* well known, though improperly so, as the Lady Howard. Mary Fitz, who seems to have inherited more of her mother's beauty than of her other good qualities, had no less than four husbands, having married — 1 Sir Alan Percy, Knight. 2 Thomas Darcy, Esq. 3 Sir Charles Howard, brother of the Earl of Suffolk, and + Sir Richard Grenville, Bart. This soldier of fortune, brother of the celebrated Sir Eeville Grenville of Stow, had served in the German wars.f under Prince Maurice, and was engaged in unsuccessful descent on the Isle of Rhee, by Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, through whose influence his marriage with Lady Howard was brought about. Although the fair widow, whose beauty w-as not yet on the wane even, had no great dower from her previous husbands, she inherited so much land in her own right as made her to be considered the richest match in the west. Her possessions, however, seem to have fallen short of Sir Richard's expectation, and still more so of the expensive style in which they lived ; — a dis- appointment that made him soon grow indiff"erent to the lady lierself. This, in a woman of her spirit, was as quickly resented ; their differences grew to such a height that Sir Richard " indulged himself in all those licences in her own house, which to women are most grievous," until at last *Sir John l*"ilz purchased the park of Okchampton. Arms. — Argent, a cross, engrailed beticeen twelve guttes, gules. — Browne Willis. tThe ol)ject of tliese were to succour the Protestants of Germany ayainst the Emperor and duke of Bavaria. — Lyttelton. y6 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. Lady Grenville sought refuge with the family of her last husband. The loss of his wife affected Sir Richard lightly enough, until it was discovered, that before her marriage with him, she had made an absolute conveyance of her entire fortune to the Earl of Suffolk her late husband's brother, who at once entered on the property. A suit in Chancery instituted by Grenville being decided against himself, he sought a hostile meeting with Lord Suffolk, and failing in this, he spoke in such terms of the Earl that he was cited before the Star Chamber, and adjudged to pay a fine of six thousand pounds; he was presently after committed, under an execution for that amount, to the Fleet prison, where he continued many years. At the commencement of the Civil War, Sir Richard who had been on an expedition to Ireland after the Protestant massacre there, proceeded to London, to obtain some arrears due to him from the parliament ; deluding them with a hope that he would serve under Waller, as a general of cavalry, he joined the King at Oxford with his whole regiment, a disaffection which so incensed the parliament, that they set a price upon his head, and, some years after, executed his only son, who had been taken prisoner, for no other crime than that he was such. From Oxford Grenville came into the West, with a royal warrant, ordering Colonel Digby to reinstate him in his wife's property, that lay within his quarters and which, setting aside the question of right was sequestered on account of her adherence to the opposite interest.* *Lord Clarendon's Histoiy. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPION. 77 IMie following inscription was placed over Sir Richard's g-rave at (ihent, in Flaniirrs, wIutc he dird, — Sir Richard Grenville, the King's (jEneral in the West. "We must not omit noticing the legendary superstition connected with Okehampton Park — the nightly visit to it by Lady Howard (Lady Grenville)*and her skeleton blood hound. The memory of this lady is, even now execrated by posterity, and a wild legend respecting her, worthy the Hartz Mountains, is to this day current among the elders in Tavistock. It avers that the coach, of which she was so proud, may still be seen, amid the ' glimpses of the moon.' rattling through the streets of that town, on its way to Okehampton Park, from the seat at which she died. But the vehicle is now a coach of bones. Human skulls supply the place of those balls that once ornamented the four corners of the roof ; and Lady Howard rides in it a pale and sheeted spectre, as her skeleton hound runs before her, to bring nightly a blade of grass from Okehampton Park to the gateway of Fitzford, a penance doomed to endure till the last blade of grass shall be plucked, when the world will l)e at an end.f *Lacly Grenville left a daughter by Sir Ricliard, named Elizabeth, who married Colonel William Lennard. tBrid.^e's MSS. SECTION IX.— PART II. This was the charter of the land. Old English Song. Le Roi et ses Ministres pent etre se feraient lire ces memoires, qui assurement ne sent pas ceux d'un ignorant. — Gil Bias. Charter of James I. Rattenbury's Journal. IGHTS not strictly authorized by the Courtenay grants,* in time grew prescriptive here, and the burgesses seem to have acted in some respects as a body corporate long beforef they obtained the royal sanction to their privileges ; in the 21 James I., the liberties of this place were formally recognized and confirmed by the Crown in a charter which contains the following reservation, " that they, the portreeve and his successors, the burgesses of the *Burgus de Okehamptone ; Dominus ejusdera Dominus Hugo de Cortenay (Sheriff's return) Madox Firtna Bittxi. tOkeharapton \ Nomina diversorum prepositorum burgi prcccticti ut patet Burgus t per antiquas chartas. Antedate. Johes Markes. II Robtus Red 15 Johes Braddeston I Gulmas Lemon 2 Rogerus Drake 9 Johes, at Beare 11 Johes Strada Ed. IL Ed. in. 24GalmusHammond 29 Johes Stondon Hen. IV. 3 Lawrence King pori/rcve Hen. V. 5 & 6 Johes Cowle 8 Johes Hobbe Hen. VI. I Galfues Denyall 4 Johes -Smyth 6 Ricus, at Pitt t,;^ Henry Durybole Hen. VII. I & 14 Johes Este- 4 Rieus Clarke brooke 6 & 17 Johes -Smale 7 & 15 Wills Bate 10 & 2j Wills Ffurse 11 & 21 Mai Pyke (Continued on page t^.J 18 Robtus de Cattleigh 4 Steph Boghemeade 23 Johes I'.eare de Hol- stocke 40 Nicholas Thatch 4 Robtus Tucker 5 Robtus Keynecot 5 Johes Tockbeare 8 Wills Hempton 12 Tho Northerate HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 79 free borough of Okehampton and their successors, may have, hold, enjoy and use all liberties, franchises, free customs, &c., as heretofore, the said portreeve and free burgesses lawfully had used and enjoyed from the concession or con- firmation of Robert de Courtnaye and Hugh de Courtnaye, Knights, or any other lord or lords of the borough." This charter created a corporation with eight burgesses of whom one was to be mayor, and eight assistants of common council, a recorder, justice, and town clerk. They were empowered to try all felonies and misdemeanours, in short every offence occurring within the borough where the punishment should not extend to loss of life or limb. They might hold a court of requests for all pleas under the amount of thirty pounds. And also a court of pie-poudre, I ; Johes Bowdon 16 Ro Payne 18 Wi Taylor, jun. (21 & 31 H, VIII) 19 Johes Downe 2 20 Joh Rowe 22 Jo Rattenburj- (6 Hen. VIII). Hen. VIII. iThoXethecot 3, 8, 17 Mir Bedel 4 AVal Holditih 5 Jo Rundell 7, 12, 23 Jo Ffrend 9 & 20 Ricus Gay 10 Johes Rude 14 Hugo Xewcombe 18, 26, 35 Nichs Ratten- bury. 19& 29Stephus West- 22 Edwin Risdon 24 & 34 Johes Delytle lake 27 & 36 Robtus Cattle 28 & 32 Edm Ffurse ;ii & 37 Johes Newcorabe (2 Mary) (iiEliz) 38 Eds Ffuse (4 Ed VI and 3 Mary) Thh X.\MliS OK MORK OF THK PORTRKKVES OF OkEH.\MPTON. Ed. VI. I Johes Bate Edrs Bowdon (4 Mar)-) 5 Johes Blatchford o Robert Underdown 6 Hen Webbery (19 & 28 Eliz) Mary 5 Henry Hellier 9, 15, 25 Ricus Brocke 10 & 23 Henrj- Dyer Eliz. I Johes Legge 13 & 18 Johes Bickell 14,24, 31, 4o01iver Downe 12 20 Johes Alford 21 & 29 Nic Can 22, 32, 38, Johes Ffurse 16 AVi Cornew 27 & 35 Ed Caun (3 Jas.) 26 Jo Tapper (2 Jas.) 37 & 44 Ro-Webbery 30, 3b, 43 Henry Under- downe 41 John Growdon 5 & 12 AVill Growden 39 Ric Harrogrow (o & (4, II. 19 Jas.) ' 14 Jas.) James I. 1,8, i6,Jo Rattenbury ig & 18 Rich Caun 9 & 17 Will Webbery 7 & 15 Will Calmady 13 Peter Rattenbury Master Richard Shcbbeare's MSS. in the possesssion of Tlionias Bridgman Luxmore, Esq. (Confintied fivm page 78.^ 8o HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. or a court of such petty chapmen as resort to fairs or markets. But the charter directed that no stranger shall exercise his handicraft or expose goods for sale except in time of Fair or Market, unless he be free of the borough, or have his licence from the Mayor for so doing. -r. o Nomina Majorum. Villa and Burg ) ■' 1623 21 Jac. I. John Gro\vden gent, et modernus Maior. In this year the town prison was built, 1624. 1624, 18 Sept. William Kennacott disfranchised by con- sent of the comon counsell from being a freeman for sundry abuses and misdemeanors against his oath and duty. 1624, 22 Jac. I. Petrus Rattenbury chosen Maj^or 4th Oct , 1624. 2 April, 1625. King Charles was here proclaimed King by proclamation. 5 Sep. Scq. King Charles came to Plymouth, and stayd eight days, at which time John Glanville, Esq., recorder of this town, was commanded by the King to goe a voyage in warfare, as secretary to the councill of warre, viz. to Cales. Ano, I Car Rex I., 3rd Oct. 1625. William Jordan, gent, chosen Ma3'or and Portreeve of Okehampton, town and borough. This yeare there was a very great sicknesse and visitation of the pestilence in this towne, whereof dyed about 300 people, most of them of the younger sort; and from Easter even 1626, untill after Michaelmas following, noe markett at all kept here save only some small quantity of victualls brought in weekly on the markett day by two or three butchers of this towne and parish ; during all which time most part of HISTORY OF OKF.HAMPTOX. 8 1 the inhabitants — not being permitted to travell abroade, ex- cept only to the city of Kxon upon the Mayor's certificate of being free, etc. — continued here, and no Taxe or Rates for releife being had from other places — as most of the other townes now visited had, by the procurement and letters, of the Mayor, Justice, and one of the principal Burgesses. There was some voluntary benevolence from divers parishes brought in, amounting to ;^55, odd money, and some provision of come and victualls sent also, and the same from tyme to tyme by the Mayor and his appointment, distributed and bestowed for the releif of the poor here inhabiting, as by the booke of particulars thereof written out since by the towne clerk, may appear ; during all which time by the providence of Almighty God, and the great paine, and especial care of the Mayor and Justice, the sick people were from time to time releived with necessaries ; the often intended disorders and outrages were quickly repressed and appeased, and noe hurt, losse, or violent damage of any value done to any person, whatsoever, God bee thanked for it. Ano 2. R Car I. Johannes Rattenbury, gent, elect Mayor 2 die Octobries, 1626. New Seates made and set in the chapel at the cost of the Corporation. This yeare the loft for the Organe in the Church and for the new Seates, these with the new Windowes in the Roughe were finished and the organ repayred. Ano 3 Car I. Johannes Bremelcombe, gent, eltus Major, I die Octobris. This yeare, from the 20th November, untill the i8th of F 82 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. January, the Mayor, Officers, and Inhabitants here were much troubled and charged by the soldiers billeted here, and the charge of many sick soldiers left unpayd. This yeare the four bells at the Church were new cast, and a new fifth bell added. 3 August 1628, \ About four o'clocke in the afternoon, being Sabbath day ) immediately after evening prayer ended att the Church of Okehampton, there being noe raine perceived to fall within or neare this towne, and the streets being then very drye, the water now called Lede, or the East water was suddenly risen about some v. foote at the Easte bridge running more violent than had been usually knowne and twas conceived the water did savour and smell of some brimstone. Beere bridge repayred in the middle piller at the towne charges. Ano 4 Car I. Mr. Henry Bowden chosen and sworne Mayor 6 Oct. 1628. This year the moytie of the borough of Okehampton was purchased of the Right honblle, John Lord Mohun, Baron of Okehampton, for which was payd, ;^XX. and an yearly rent charge of ;^VII in ffee. An. 5, Car I. Mr. Peter Rattenbury chosen and sworne Mayor of Okehampton and Portreeve 5 Oct. 1629. An. 6, Car I. Wm. Jordan gent, chosen and sworne Mayor and Portreeve 4 Oct. 1630. April I John Glanville, Esq.. recorder, resigned and 1630. ) yielded up his place, and John Dogge, Esq. chosen recorder during the will and pleasure of the Mayor and burgesses. HISTORY OF 0KHHA:MPT0X. 83 An. 7, Car I. Mr. Henry Cole chosen and sworne Mayor 30 Sept. 1633. An. 8, 9, Car I. John Rattenbury gent, chosen and swoine ^Nlayor i Oct. 1632. December. The lecture at the chapel appointed and begun upon the town court days, by ]Mr. Michael Porter. An. 9, Car I. John Vaghan gent, chosen and sworne Mayor 30 Sept. 1633. The measures of the towne and weights tryed and some reformed. An. 10, Car I. I\Ir. John Bremelcombe chosen and sworne Mayor 5 Oct. 1634. Aug. 26 seq. Thomas Reddaway comitted to prison for abusing the Mayor, until and after bound to his good behaviour ; and entered into recognizance not to play at un- lawful games nor to haunt any such places. ]\Iem. That ;^30 was levied (by a speciall writt directed to the INIayor and Burgesses) for shipping money. Mr. Oliver Tapper, of Exon, Merchant, borne here, gave £1, which was distributed to the poore, &c. Ano. II, Car I. ?^Ir. Henry Bowden chosen and sworne Mayor 5 Oct. 1635. March 31, seq. Roger Oke sent to the goale at Exeter, for stabbing and killing William Slade, and afterwards executed. Edmund Cann the elder, for speaking slandrously against the government of this town, was committed and bound to his good behaviour. An. 12, Carl. Mr. Peter Rattenbury chosen and sworne Mayor, 3 Oct. 1636. 84 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. November, £^0 collected for Ship money, paid to the Sheriffe, Dennis Rolle, Esq. of Devon. An. 13, Car I. JMr. William Jordan chosen and sworne Mayor 2 Oct. 1637. William Arscott abused Mr. Mayor insufferably, for which he was committed and bound to good behaviour, and con- tinued two sessions, and then made submission. Nov. At the Lords' Auditt, Sir Richard Vivian, Knt. and Peter Courtney, Esq. did question the Mayor and the Burgesses touching this Market and Shambles, &c. An. 14, Car I. Mr. Richard Hayne chosen and sworne INIayor, i Oct., 1638. The Pound within the borough made up this summer, and the keeping thereof granted to William Weekes for his life, and after him to Johan, his daughter, they dwelling where he, the sayd William Weekes now dwelleth, and repayr- ing the same, after its new made, &c. This Pound was made up with posts and rayles many years since. SECTION X. Nam genus et proavos et qune non fecimus ipsi Vix ea nostra voco. — Ovid, Metatn, 13. Ar.EYANCE OF THE BaRONY OF OkEHAMPTON. se^ x^ TV ^ "^^ ^""^ iquisition taken after the death of Lord rard Courtenay at Padua, his heirs were found to be the descendants from the four sisters of Edward Courtenay who had been created Earl of Devon in the first year of Henry the VII. These sisters — the Ladies EUzabeth, IMaude, Isabel, and Florence — had married Trethurffe, Arundel, IMohun and Trelawny respectively, into which families passed what remained of the once splendid possessions of Courtenay, and the latent claim to their baronial honors.*' I. — John Trcthurflfe, of Trethurffe, esq., married the lady Elizabeth ;f the portion of the estate inherited by her *After the death of the last Earl of Devon in 1556, the estates were di\ided among the co-heiresses. Sir Francis Vy\yan, one of the representa- tive of Trethurffe, possessed an eighth so late as 1743. Another eightli was for nearly a centurj' in the family of Xorthmore, it afterwards passed to the Luxmoores and from them to Hemy Holland. One fourth was some time in the family of Coxe. tin the first \isitation in 1531, the oldest book of e\idence in the Heralds' College, the lady Elizabeth is called, " furst dafter of Hugh Courtenaye." 86 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. devolved on their two grand-daughters, co-heiresses, Eliz- abeth and Margaret, who married Vivian, and Edward Courtenay, of Landrake, esqs. II. — Sir John Arundell of Tolverne, married first INIaude, daughter of Sir Hugh Courtenay, Knight, and had by her two sons, who died young. III. — William IMohun,* of Hall.f esq., descended from Reginald de Mohun, younger son of John, first baron jNIohun of Dunster, a dignity that fell into abeyance, temp. Edward III., espoused the lady Isabella: their son and heir John ]\Iohun and Anne Coode his wife, who both died of the sweating sickness within twenty-four hours of each other, left issue eight children. The eldest, Reginald, — who became heir to lord Edward Courtenay in right of his grandmother^ — married Jane Trevanion and had issue *Arms. — Or, a Cross engrailed, Sable. Until the reign of Edw. III., amis were but personal de\ices, and died with the bearers, as may be seen from cases in this, and other noble families: — 30 Ed. III. cir, the office of provincial herald, was instituted, when they became positive, by records entered in the office of arms, and hereditary to names and families. — Hal's Parochial History of Cornwall. Descent of Mohiin. tThe mansion of Hall, situate in the parish of Lanteglos, juxta Fowey, sustained much injury during the civil war ; when it was taken by the royalists under Sir Richard Grenville, and garrisoned for the King. Its commanding situation soon gave Charles the dominion of the harbour, but did not place him beyond the reach of danger ; while inspecting the passes over the river, and the garrisons of Hall and Pemon fort, he narrowly escaped a shot from the enemy, which is said to have killed a fisherman while he was gazing on the King. — Drew's Cornwall. IjOkehampton castle with two-fourths of the manor became the property ol the Alohuns ; one by inheritance and the other by purchase. These were possessed by the Pitts for many years, and afterwards were pur- chased by Lord Clive; he also added another fourth part, if not the whole, which passed to the Prince of Wales (aftei-wards Geo. IV.) HoUand, and Albany S a vile. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 87 Sir William Mohun, Knight, who married first Joan Horsey, and after her death Anne, relict of Sir John Trelawney : his heir Reginald ^Nlohun, of Boconnoc, esq. was created a baronet by James I. At the time of Carew's Survey, he was "a widower of two wifes," the first a daughter of Sir Henry Killigrew, the second, Philippa, daughter of John Hele, esq., Serjeant at law. Sir Reginald was one of the deputy Lieutenants of Cornwall, a justice of peace, and commanded six companies of local forces of one hundred men each \^' he was succeeded by his son. Barons INIohun of Okehampton. Sir John Alohun, second baronet of his family, was elevated to the peerage, by patent bearing date 15th April, 1628, by the title of Baron ]Mohun of Okehampton. His lordship, who became one of the chief cavalier commanders in the west, and did essential service to the royal cause, f married Cordelia Stanhope, relict of Sir Roger Ashton, by whom he had issue — John, who succeeded to the title and estates ; Warwick, heir to his brother ; Sir Charles JMohun, Knight J, and three daughters. § His lordship dying in 1644, *These were armed with 200 pikes, 210 muskets, and igocalivers. tThe lord !Mohun, who had, from the time of the first motion in Corn- wall, forborne to join the King's parties, presented himself to his Majesty at Brentford, soon after the battle of Edgehill ; he was at once associated in a military commission with ilopton, Ashbarnham, and others, the Kinj^'s ofhcers in the west, not without giving some umbrage to stauncher royalists, and returning into Cornwall quietly raised a regiment of foot, although not very popular there. — Clarendon. JHe was slain at Dartmouth, fighting on the King's side, and was buried in the family vault at Boconnoc, October, 1643. §The eldest of these, the Hon. Cordelia Mohun, married John Harris, of Hayne, esq., 1644. 88 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. his honors devolved on John, second Lord IMohun, who however died without issue, and was succeeded by his brother Warwick, third baron ; this nobleman married Catherine Willes, of Brember, in the county of Southampton, and dying in 1665, was succeeded by Charles, fourth Baron IMohun of Okehampton ; who espoused the Lady Philippa, one of the six daughters of Arthur Annesley, first Earl of Anglesea, at that time Lord Privy Seal, and had issue a son of his own name, who inherited the title on his death, some- time before 1682. Charles Mohun, fifth and last lord, was of a vehement and passionate temper, which led him into many excesses in his youth, and subjected him to be twice arraigned for murder, but he was on both occasions honorably acquitted. Having had a dispute with James, Duke of Brandon and Hamilton, — regarding an estate (Sandon Hall), left him by the Earl of Macclesfield, whose niece Lord IMohun had married, he challenged that nobleman, and a duel ensued in Hyde Park on the 15th Nov. 1712, wherein both the combatants were slain.* His lordship married, first, Charlotte the daughter of — Mainwaring, Esq., by Lady Charlotte Gerard, sister of Charles, Earl of IMacclesfield ; and secondly, Elizabeth Lawrence, widow of Colonel Griffeth, but had no issue, in consequence of which the Barony of IMohun of Okehampton, at his decease, became extinct. IV. — The Lady Florence Courtenay married John Trelawny of IMenheniot, Esq., by whom she had three sons, *Lord Mohun fell by the duke's fire, the death of Hamilton was attributed by some to treacherj' on the part of General Macartney, lord Mohun's second. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 89 Walter, Alneth, to whom, (3 Henry VIII.), Katherine, Countess of Devon, daughter of Edward IV., granted the bailiwick of Exicon, and the west gate of the city of Exeter, for life, and Edward ; Alneth, and Edward died without issue, and their father died at Tournay, 1515.'^' *Gilbert's History of Cornivall. Bullae's Extinct Peerage. Collins's Peerage, by Sir Egeiton Biydges. SECTION XL— PART I. "Thou that with ale, or \iler hquors, Didst inspire Withers, Pryn and Vickars. And force them," etc. Hiidibras. The Civil Wars and Commonwealth. share borne by this town in the events of this disastrous period, continued to find a faithful chronicler in Master Rattenbury — faithful, as far as he goes, for this worthy burgess, being, as we suspect, at heart a royalist, appears fearful of com- mitting himself after the ruin of the royal cause. In the year of the King's death and those consequent on it, the re- cord merely notices by whom the civic chair here was filled, there being no other entry whatever. 1637, Car. XIII. Mr. William Jordan chosen and sworne mayor, 2 Oct. A writ brought to Mr. Mayor for the shipping money,* (ship-money) £10 paid. *Ship-money ; seaports only were at first made liable to this impost, it was subsequently levied on the inland towns also. — Salmon, HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 9 1 Thos. Wise, Esq., Sherriffe of this County of Devon, sent letters to ^Mr. IMayor of Exeter, and the mayors of all Other the corporations within this county, to give him a meeting in the town of Okehampton, the 26th of this October, to treat and advise touching the shippinge rate, and of the Lords, .... and directions thereupon, who met here accordingly. 1638, Car XIV. Mr. Richard Heayne chosen and sworne Mayor i October. Jan. 16, 1639. Michael Douglas for abusing Mr. Mayor was imprisoned and bound to his good behaviour, and after upon his publique submission freed. A writ for the Shepe-rate* sent, proportion £\z paid in November 1639, but delivered in August before unto Sir John Pole Baronett then Sherriffe of the County of Devon. 1639, Car XV. Johes Rattenbury, gent, elect et jurat, Maior 30 September. Dec. 29. A writt brought to the Mayor for the Shippe rate : proportion ;^3o, which money being for the most part collected, was afterwards returned to every one again. This year many companyes of soldyers, which came out of Cornwall, prest for the north against the Scotts, with the captaynes and officers travelling this way were lodged here, and passed quyetly. Special care being taken for billettingf of them, and a vigilant watch set during night. 1640, Car XVI. Mr. IMichael Drew chosen and sworn mayor, 3 Oct. *Ship-iate. tThe Commons, 7 December, 16 Car. I., voted the imposition of ship- money and the billeting of soldiers to be illegal. 92 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. Jan., 1 641. This year a writt, procured by the right hon, lord Mohun, Baron of Okehampton, was brought to ]\Ir. Mayor and the burgesses and inhabitants here, for the choice of burgesses for the parliament, which privilege this borough had in ancient tymes as by the records in the Tower of London appeareth. At the election day, after the publication of INIr. Sheriffe of Devon, his warrant on the said writt four or five days before, two gentlemen, viz., Lawrence Whittaker, Esq., and Edward Thomas, Esq., recommended by the said Lord Mohun before, — the said Mr. Thomas was chosen by general consent, in the place, first the said Mr. Whittaker named, and with him Sir Shilston Calmady,*" knight, (not before heard of by the INIayor and burgesses here) Mr. Whittaker had most voyces and he and Mr. Thomas, certified by in- denture between the SherrifFe and the towne. Whereupon Sir Shilston Calmady came hither shortly after and endeavoured a new election, and required Mr. INIayor to have the Town Seal to seal another indenture which INIr. Mayor and the burgesses denyed him, whereupon Sir Shilston delivered some petition to parliament without effect. 4 May 1 641. Symon Oxenham indited and fyned ^10, to the King's Majesty this year, who afterwards submitted him- self to the subscribed fyne. The Protestation! sent from parliament now taken by INIr. Mayor and the burgesses and assistants present and by *Calmady — azute, a chevero7i between three bears, pendant, or. — Sir W. Pole. tl do, in the presence of Almighty God, promise, vow and protest te maintain and defend, as far as lawfully I may, with my life, power and estate, the true reformed protestant religion, expressed in the doctrine of the Church of England, (&c. HISTORY OF OKEHAMITON. f)3 divers others and also by all or the most part of the town and parish of Okehampton. This year was some disorder committed in setting up a may-pole here, and some stirr touching it afterwards at the town sessions. 1 64 1, Car XVII. i\Ir. William Gayer chosen and sworn mayor, 4th Oct. An order made by general consent that the roome under the Court house should be fitted, and employed for a roome to sell corn and wheat in, for some moderate toll : neglected by reason of the succeeding many troubles.^' Lawrence Whittaker, Esq., one of the burgesses for the parliament of this boroughe did send forty shillings to the poor people of this town, which was brought and distributed to them accordingly.! 1642, Car XVIII. ]Mr. John Bremescombe chosen and sworn iMayor, 3 Oct. 4, Oct. Mr. John Vaghan, gent, being indicted for words spoken, he brought a writ of certiorari out of the Crown office to remove it, which Mr. Vaghan's son delivered to Mr. Mayor in open Sessions : which indiction, was, by the direction of the King's Serjeant ; returne was made of the writt, but no effect, in that the jurors names there were omitted ; but by reason of the disturbances of the tymes,:}: *At the beginning of the contest, the whole of this country seems to have been in the possession of the parHamentary committee. Exeter with a numerous body of their partizans quartered there, was in an excellent state of defence ; Plymouth had been seized by the inhabitants and strongly fortified, and the north of Devon in particular, was remarkable for its state of disaffection. — Moore. tThe signature of the writer is attached here, J. R. J After the defeat of Ruthen, the roundhead general, on Bradock- downs, loth Jan., 1643, a treaty of peace between Devon and Cornwall was proposed, and ratified by a solemn oath, this act of accommodation was however nullified by the parliament, 19 January, 1643. 04 tttStORY OP OKEHAMfTON. and Mr. Vaghan's death this year, no more (was) done in yt. The King's armyes and the parliament's armies* came severally to this town, dyvcrs times this year, and quartered here, to the great daimnage of the inhabitants. Mr. INIayor suffered very much both in his person and estate by some of the armies. March, 1643. This year the butchers sold flesh on market days in Lent, commonly as at other tymes. May, 1643. The fortification in Stony park was made by the direction of Major James Chudleigh, of the Parliamentary army. And there was a fight at Meldon Downe,f by night, in a great tempest of wind and rain. June, 1643. A weekly paie begun towards the support of the army for the King, rated at i pound od money for this town and parish in Lifton hundred. Sept. 23, 1643. Mr. John Hussey, Vicar of Okehanipton dyed. And after him Mr. Richard Mervyne, Batchelor of Divinity, was in the year followinge admitted and inducted. 1643. Car XIX, Mr. Lewis Parker chosen and sworn Mayor 2. Oct. *During these troubles the royal forces were chiefly raised by the nobility and gentry, who adhered to the royal cause, from among their tenantry and defendants ; most of the miUtia, and particulaiy the train- bands of London, sided with the parliamentarians. — Grose's Military Antiquities. tThe night before the expiration of the treaty, Chudleigh, who was a major-general, marched on Lanson, with a view of surprising the royalists in garrison tliere ; he was met, however, by Sir Ralph Hopton, and Sir Richard Grenville, on a downe near Bridestowe : Clarendon, who calls it a night skinnish, admits that the King's party received a severe check, but Vicaiy notices the affair as a brilHant action, and proposes a pyramid and inscription in honour of the parliamentarians, one hundred and eighty soldiers who were engaged in it. Chudleigh was, nevertheless, obliged to fall back on his posts at Okington : on the i6th May he was taken prisoner at the battle of Stratton. HISTORY OF OKEhAMPTOK. 05 The weekly pay to the army contynued, and other taxes and payments with free quarter which was very chargeable to the inhabitants here this year. And Mr. Major and the constables very much troubled. July I, 1644. Queen Mary came hither with a great many and stayed 2 nights. Mr. Mayor gave to the queen's servants of her guard £^ — which was required of him. July 2nd to the 19th. Prince Maurice with the King's army quartered here almost 3 weeks, during which tyme very many sheepe were plundered and killed, and eat by the soldiers, and the yeast hay and other provision of the in- habitants were spent. One soldier was then hanged here in the street for plundering a house in Inwardley.f July 22. The Earle of EssexJ came with the L. Roberts, § and the Parliament Army to a very great number, and very many carriages, but tarried but one night. *While laying here it was increased by additions from the besiegers at Plymouth, to 5000 foot and 2000 cavalrj'. — Clarendon. tAVe find the following "Memorandum" in the Register book there — made about the year 1763 : — " Francis Nation, my grandfather, was rector of Parkham, and this palish too till May i6th, 1702, at which time he died at Parkham and was buried there, aged 82, ha\-ing been rector of this paiish about 56 years; but was turned out for sometime in Oliver's days for his loyalty to the King, afterwards restored again when the King was returned." JPrince Maurice marched from this place to Crediton, and on the same day Essex removed his quarters, with an intention either to surprise the prince there, or to raise the siege of Plymouth. — Moore. ^The lord Robert's field marshall to Essex his army, had given him the allowance of /'G per diem. — Whitelock. Lord Robartes of Lanhydroc, after earl of Rodnor — "was a staunch presbyterian, sour and cynical, just in his administration, but vicious under the semblance of virtue ; learned above any of his quality, but still, obstinate, proud and jealous, and every way intracticable." 96 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 24. Came in Sir Robert Pye, Knight, with dyvers others to quarter, and towards night some skirmish was in the parish, and some killed which caused him and his company to depart suddenly that night. King Charles* came with many Lords and his army and staled one night. Mr. Mayor gave to his Maty's servants twenty pounds .... being required by them with much earnestness. And to the Earle of Linsey his servants £t, i is. od. 1644. Car XX. Mr. Richard Heayne chosen and sworn Mayor 30 Sept. Sir Richard Grenville, knight and baronet, quarteredf in this town several times, and divers other commanders, officers and souldiers. This year the town was put to great costs for free quarter post-horses and convoy of letters by parliamentary souldiers and other such like as by Mr. Heayne's accompt may appear. 1645. Car XXI. Mr. Thomas Hill chosen and sworn Mayor 6 Oct. This year in Oct. and Nov. Sir Richard Grenville did raise *The King slept at Bow the night before, where Prince Maurice, whose army had been reviewed by him on the 27th at Crediton, and who was a day's march in advance, had left httle or no provisions. Charles passed through Okehampton, i6th September following, on his return from Cornwall, after the capitulation of the parliamentary forces there under Essex. tWhile Sir Richard was here he formed several mad designs, which he always communicated to the prince or lords in writing ; one of these, was "to cut a deep trench from Barnstaple to the south sea, for the space of nearly forty miles, by which," he said, "he would defend the country west of it against all the world." He also wrote from this place to colonel John Arundell, governor of Pendennis, " that the prince intended to remove him from that command, and to confer it on the lord Hopton, but that he should not suffer such an ajfront to be put on Mm. — Clarendon. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 97 barricadoes and other works and made this town a garrison town for a while — free quarter continued till February.* Sir Thomas Fairfax, Generall of the Parliamt Army was here 2 days and marcht thence upon Faster-day 1646. i\Ir. Hill dyed !Mayor this year. J 646. Car XXII. ]Mr. John Shebbear chosen and sworn Mayor, 6 Octobris. 1647. Car XXIII. John Rattenbury chosen and sworn ]\Iayor 30 Oct. Officers and souldiers quartered! ^^re part of this year. 1648. Car XXIV. INIr. Christopher Drewe chosen and sworn jNIayor 2. Oct. 1649. Mr. John Bremelcombe,:j: Mayor. 1650. i\Ir. William Drewe, ]\Iayor 30 Sept. 1 65 1. Mr. Richard Heayne, Mayor 6 Oct. 1652. Mr. John Shebbear, 4 Oct. 1653. INIr. Christopher Drew, 3 Oct. 1654. Mr. John Newcombe, 2 Oct. *On the 2 1st October, 1645, lord Goring rested here on his way to Ta\-istock, whence he soon after returned with a fresh supply of fool, at which time he had between nine and ten thousand men in the both towns. Grenville had sent three regiments of foot, consisting of 600 veteran soldiers, under major-general ^lolesworth, to Okiitgton, but withdrew them, after the defeat of Wentworth's horse in the Southams, to Launces- ton, in the face of a strong remonstrance from the lords Capel and Cole- jiepper who lay at Exeter : posting detachments along the banks of the Tamar, he ordered that none of lord Goring' s men should be suffered to enter the country- on any pretence whatever. — Clarendon. TP'uller in his quaint style, describing the Giihhings, a wild race of men on the edge of Dartmoor, near Brentor, says, " during our civil wars no souldiers were quartered amongst them for fear of being quartered among them ; their wealth consisteth in other men's goods, as they live by steal- ing the sheep on the moor, and vain it is for any to search their houses, being a work beneath the pains of a sheriff, and above the power of any constable." JThis was the fourth time he was mayor, wlio by his trade was an wholesale haberdasher of hatts, and left a fayre estate to his posterity, he dyed 5th Sep., 1652. — Shebbeare's Note. G g8 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. Oct. 3. Mr. John Rattenbury, town clerk, presented to Mr. Mayor a little silver scale, having Okehampton town arms engraven thereon, tyed with a black ribbon (as a legacy) to remain with him and his successors yearly while it lasted. 30 November. Josias Calmady, Esq., gave a fat bullock to the poore people of Okehampton at the tyme of his marriage with Mrs. Elizabeth Gay whose contract was published in Okehampton Markett. 1655. Mr. Thomas Carter, Mayor i Oct. Mr. John Rattenbury, one of the principall burgesses dyed in this year, having been towne clarke, and steward of the borough for above thirty years, and four tymes mayor, a great preserver of the Records and priviledges belonging to this town. 1656. Mr. Andrew Treweene, Mayor 6 Oct. 15 April, 1657. Thomas Austyn elected and sworn town clerk during his life, as by the charter.* 1657. Mr. John Shebbear, Mayor 5 Oct. Mr. Digory Treweene, chosen to be schoolmaster at the free school of this town and borough, to teach 6 poor children, and to have ten pounds a year, being the gift of the corporation for his better encouragement. 1658. Mr. Richard Rook, Mayor 7 Oct. 27 Dec. John Blackmoor, Knight, Sheriff of Devon, sent his warrant to the mayor and burgesses of Okehampton for the election of two burgesses to serve in parliament. 3 Jan., 1659. Edward Wise of Sidenham in the County of Devon, Esq., and Robert Everard, of Great Waltham in *Vice Thos. Wills, gent., dismissed for neglect of duty. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTOX. 99 the County of Essex, Esq., were by general consent elected Burgesses. 1659. Mr. Christopher Drewe, ]\Iayor, 3 Oct. 30 May, 1660. ^Matthew Gold, Esq., Sheriff of Devon, sent his warrant to the Mayor and commonalty of Oke- hampton for the election of two burgesses to serve in the next parliament. 4 April. The mayor and commonalty proceeded to election of Burgesses, and notwithstanding the Lord INIohun's endeavour for Robt. Reynold, Esq., Edmund Wise, Esq., and Josias Calmady, Esq., were elected burgesses for this town and borough, and had their indentures forthwith sealed. The Lord Mohun endeavoured to have brought in the tenants of the Manor of Okehampton to have had voices in the said Election, but was withstood, and the tenants of the manor adjudged not capable of giving voices in election of burgesses within the town and borough.*' 1 1 April. The Lord Mohun's agents get another In- denture for Mr. Reynold, under the hands and scales of some of the inhabitants of this Town here, and divers of the tenants, off the Manor, which afterwards came to nothing. And ^Vr. Wise, and Mr. Calmady contynued to sett as Burgesses. Kinge Charles the second proclaimed Kinge of England, Scotland, France, and Ireland. *The House of Commons, however, recognized their ri^'hts to vote within the tutvn in the ensuing year, and they continue to exercise it until the close of its parliamentary franchise. SECTION XL— PART 11. " jSIy capt. presented me to tlie King, saying, An't please your majesty, this gentleman is an old cavalier, and my chaplain, I kneeled downe; he gave me his hand, I kist it, and said, pray God blesse your majesty ! He answered, God blesse you boath together ! twice ; and walked along the gallery his woonted large pace." Diary of Henry Teonge, Chaplain of H.M.S. "Bristol," 1678. Okehampton after the Restoration. 1660. 12 Car II. Mr. Thomas Austyn, mayor, i Oct. 1 66 1. Mr. Richard Horrell, mayor, 30 Sept. 1662. Mr. Francis Hutchings, mayor, 5 Oct. 1663. Mr. Henry Palfrey, mayor, 4 Oct. 1664 Mr. Thomas Carter, mayor, 3 Oct. This year Seth Ward, lord bishop of Exon was here; chil- dren confirmed. 1665. ]\Ir. John Gayer, mayor, 2 Oct. 1666. Mr. Robert Rattenbury, mayor, i Oct. This year the Shambles were pulled down and new built, with a chamber over the Shambles, which was intended for a place to sell wheate in, which cost the corporation a very considerable quantity of money. 1667. Mr. John Shebbear, mayor, 30 Sept. 1668. Mr. Richard Horrell, mayor, 5 Oct. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. lOI 1669. Mr. Richard Shebbeare, mayor, 4 Oct. 1670. 22 Car II. Mr. Richard Underdowne, mayor, 3 Oct. 29 Oct. There happened a fire in the school house chim- ney, which occasioned the burning down of the school, that is all the thatch to a very small matter, but most of the timber was preserved ; it fell out on a Saturday in the after- noon. Nov. Sir Thomas Hole, Knight, one of the burgesses in parliament for this town and borough, dyed this yeare, and Arthur Harris, esq *•' chosen in his roome. Collected by Mr. John Hussey, and Cosinf Benjamin Gayer for and towards the relief of poor protestants taken in Turkey, the charity of the inhabitants of this town and parish, and there was gathered ten pounds and odd money. 1 67 1. Mr. Thomas Carter, mayor, 2 Oct. 13 ^lay, 1672. This day INIr. INIayor, with many of the inhabitants of this town, together with Mr. Hussey and Mr. Randall, school-master, and divers both young and old, viewed the bounds of Dartmoor commons, belonging to this parish. 1672. 24 Car II. Mr. Christopher Yendall, mayor, 30 Sept. Oct. 2 1 . The manor court| held at the town Hall by leave. 1673. Mr. Benjamin Gayer, mayor and portreeve, Oct. ' The new elected mayor is always sworne portreeve at the *In July, 167 1, this gentleman was sworn as recorder of Okehampton. ■ tThis may be a trait of burgher vanity in good master Shebbeare ; it appears from an after entry of his, that Gayer and eight others, himself included, filled the mayoralty chair here twenty-four times, and that they were all either the family or posterity of master John Bremelcome, their patriarch, who had been mayor four times. |This court had hitherto been held "in the first house of the middle row of the town land, now Mrs. Hester Gayer's as a priviledge belonging to the lords of the manor of Okehampton." 102 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. borough court following, held and kept sometime in that week or speedily after.*' 1674. INIr. John Gayer, mayor and portreeve, Oct. This yeare the town hall was new plaunched and new playstered. 17 Jan., 1675. Mr. Shilston Calmady sent hither four bushels of wheate of the old measure, which makes seven of the new, to be distributed to such poor people as had not pay of the parish. 1675. 27 Car II. .Air. Robert Rattenbury, mayor, 4 Oct. Feb. 28, 1676. Wee had our charter brought home for the two new fayres here.f *The state of this borough was singular, its constitution being partly feudal and partly corporate. Previous to King James' charter, the port- reeve, chosen at a court leet of the manor, had always made the return, but after that grant the mayor took on himself that office, it being cautiously provided by one of the first by-laws they were empowered as a corporation to enact, that the mayor for the time being should be presented to the homage, to be chosen portreeve also for the year of his mayoralty. This junction of offices took place in 1623, and continued, with but one exception, until the close of its parliamentary franchise.- — Oldfield's Representative Hist. tThe fairs began under everything but fair auspices for the worthy burgesses. March 13, 1676. On this day we held the first new fayre, but there was so great a snow fell as hindred people coming this and the ne.xt day, and the fayre was as good as nothing. But this was not all. — Oct. 5. ^^50 sent to London for the writt, Quod damnum, in reference to the two fayres and to keep out strangers. Dec. 14. ^50 more sent to London for the fayres. On the Saturday after Christmas is a great holiday fair, called a giglet or giglet-market, that is a wife market, at which the most rustic swain, if weary of his bachelorship, is priveledged with self-introduction to any disengaged fair one who may attract his particular fancy. — Britton's Devonshire, HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 103 1+ March. Henry Norleigh,* esq., elected burgessf in parliament for this town and borough. Vice Sir Edward Wise, dec. 1676. 28 Car n. 'Sir. Richard Horrell, mayor, 2 Oct. Oct. 9. The duke of Albemarle's giuft of ffive pounds distributed this day to the sufferers by the ffire. A? above the tenn pounds which was given out of the county stocke, distributed likewise, of which money Peter Rice had ^10, Wm. March and others ^5. 7 March, 1677. 300 volunteers with 9 captaines lodged here all night, but went hence early in the morning for Crediton. 24 July. Arthur Little, an expert swimmer, attempting to carry Thomas Squire, a youth on his back through Gump's poole, was himself drowned ; but the boy preserved by one that came to help him. 1677. 29 Car II. Mr. Richard Shebbeare, mayor, i Oct. *Northleigh, of Xorthleigh — Ermine 3 ImU/e axes sable, on a shield of pretence azure, a clievron, with 2,fleurs delis proper. tAt this election Henry Norleigh, of Pamouth, esq., had 102 voyces, and Mr. Josias Calmady, of Leward (Leawood), 48 ; but it stoed sqe. Norleigh a great summe of money, for at the election day, being 14th March, 1676, there was expended : — At the "While horse 13 March. Feby. May. At the White heart (hart) At the King's armes . . At the Three Pigeons . . At the George At the Royall Oake At the White horse At the White horse £ s. d. . 148 . 135 . 27 17 10 . 23 50 50 ^^460 This is a true and exact account taken by me ; Richard Shebbeare, who was present at the election, and gave my voyce for Sqe Norleigh. 104 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. Sep. 1678. Seaven principall burgesses and assistants chosen into the furst and second company this year, which the like hath never been since it was first a corporation. 1678. 30 Car II. INIr. Benjamin Gayer, mayor, 30 Sep. 24 Feb., 1679. Arthur Harris, Knight, and Josias Cahnad}', junr., esq., elected burgesses. Sep. 8. Sir Arthur gave five pounds to INIr. INIayor for the poore. 1679. 31 Car II. INIr. John Shebbeare, mayor, 6 Oct. 20 Sep. 1680. Nicholas Pryor having a gun in his hand it went off and shot John Weekes in the flTace soe that most doubted of his life, ftbr which offense the weeke ffollowing the sayd Nicholas Pryor was sent to the goale. 1680. 32 Car II. INIr. Robert Rattenbury, mayor,*' 4 Oct. 25 Oct. Sir Arthur Harris, baronet, and Sir George Cary, knight, were elected burgesses. 9 June, 1 68 1. Sent an address to his majesty for his gracious declaration, subscribed by 230 inhabitants of this town, by Sir George Cary, the recorder. 1 68 1. 33 Car II. IMr. Christopher Yendall, chosen and sworne mayor, 3 Oct. Sep. 1682. An abhorrence against the association proved *London, June 20th, 1681. Mr. Mayor of Okehampton, I understand from my daughter Mohun, baroness dowager of Okehamp- ton, how kind you and your coiporation have been to my grandson, the lord Mohun, which is alsoe an expression of your continued honour for his ancestors and that ffamily, which hath ingaged me much to you, and shall be always in my minde when any opportunity shall offer, or you shall infomi me wherein I may serve that antient and loyall corporation ; and I could not be satisiied with myself till I had given you this assurance thereof, which you shall finde effectually perfoiTned by your veiy loving friend, — Anglesey C.P.S. Mr. Robert Rattenbury, Mayor, SiQ, HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. I05 to be found in the lord Shaftesbury's closets was subscribed by nigh two hundred hands of the inhabitants of this town and borough. 1682, 34 Car II. ]Mr. Ambrose Cunningham chosen and sworne mayor, 2 Oct. 31 Oct. Ordered that the charter be surrendered into the hands of his majesty. ]May 22, 1683. I\Ir. INIayor delivered an instrument in writing under the common scale of the resignation of the charter unto Sir George Cary, to be conveyed to his majesty. The duke of Albemarle being then at Exon. 1683, 35 Car II. Mr. Richard Shebbeare chosen mayor, I Oct. 3 Sep., 1634. i\Ir. Richard Shebbeare, now sworne mayor of the town, borough and parish of Okehampton, by virtue of the new charter, which was this very day brought home, accompanied by Sir George Caiy, Knight, the Recorder, Sir Amos Pollard, Justice Gidley, Squire Burgoine, with divers gentlemen, magistrates and townsmen to the number of nigh two hundred horse and four drummers, two trumpeters, three weight players, bells ringing, with the trained bands, ffootmen and boys, &c. 1684, 36 Car II. Mr. Benjamin Gayer chosen and sworne mayor of the town, borough and parish, 6 Oct. ■ 19 Jan., 1684. William Cary, esq., broker and heir to Sir George Cary, was by ten vcjtes chosen recorder of this town, vl'c, but six of the second party ungratefully gave their voyces against him. Feb. 5. His sacred Majesty departed this life, and his I06 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. brother proclaimed King James the second, whom God grant long to live. March i8. Sir Symon Leach, Knight, and William Cary, esq., were this day elected burgesses to serve in parliament. 1685. I Jac II. Mr. John Gayer, sworne mayor, 5 Oct. 1686. 2 Jac. II. Mr. Robert Rattenbury, mayor, 4 Oct. 28 Sep., 1687. Mr. Thomas Squire chosen and sworne principall burgesse in the room of Cosin Sampson Newbury dismissed. 1687. 3 Jac II. Mr. John Shebbeare, mayor, 3 Oct. Jan 6, 1687. By an order from Sir John Southcot, Mr. Geo, Burgoine, and INIr. Wm. Noss were here to knowe the mindes of the members of the corporation ; that is, whether they were w'illing to have the penall laws against Recusants and dissenters repealed and the test taken off; — which all answered except one, that they were not willing to have them repeated nor the test taken off. Feb. 24. The right honourable John, earl of Bath, Lord Lieutenant of this county was here — by order (supposed) from his majesty to inspect this corporation — and he was well satisfied with the proceedings of the magistrates. 1688. 4 Jac II. I\Ir. Christopher Yendall, mayor, i Oct. 30 Oct. The King's proclamation for putting and restor- ing all corporations, to their antient priveledges was this day proclaimed here. II Jan., 1688. By vertue of a circular letter directed to Mr. ]\Iayor from his highneesse the prince of Orange, William Cary, of Chawley, esq., and Henry Norleigh, of Pamotith, esq., were this day chosen in the convocation of 22 January next for this town and borough. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON, IO7 19 Feb., 1688. This day William and I\Ian-, prince and princesse of Orange [were] proclaymed kinge and queen of England, France and Ireland, and effigies of the Pope burnt in this towne. Edward Rattenbury drowned going iiome to his house in a poole beyond Beare bridge. 1689, I Gul III. ]Mr. Thomas Squire, mayor, 30 Sep. The commons not viewed untill Tuesday in the afternoon. 1690, 2 Gul III. I\Ir. John Gayer, mayor, Oct. 1691, 3 Gul III. Mr. Nicholas Pope, mayor 1692, 4 Gul III. I\Ir. Thomas Uglow, mayor. 1693, 5 Gul III. Mr. John Ellacott, mayor. 1694, 6 Gul III. I\Ir. Benjamin Gayer, mayor, i Oct. 28 Dec. Queen Mary departed this life at Kensington. 1695, 7 Gul III. I\Ir. John Shebbeare, mayor, 30 Oct. I Nov. John Burrington, esq., and Mr. Thomas North- more were this day elected burgesses in parliament for this town and borough. 1696, 8 Gul III. Mr. William Newberry, mayor, 5 Oct. 26 Oct. This day the Lord's Justices' proclamation was proclaymed at the town-hall, at the Crosse and at the markett house wherein was signified that the King had concluded a peace with the French King, aud a bonfire made down at Beare bridsfe. 1697, 9 Gul III. Mr. Christopher Yendall, mayor, 4 Oct. 28 July, 1696. William Harris of Heayne, esq., and Mr. Thomas Northmore were this day by most voyces elected burgesses to serve in parliament for this town and borough. 1698, 10 Gul. III. Mr. Thomas Cunninghamc, mayor, 5 Oct, ADDITIONAL NOTES ON THIS SECTION. " Id cinerem, aut manes credis curare sepultos ? " — Virg. I. Mr. B. Gayer.* — While the philanthropy of this good burgess, as shewn in his collections "for the releife of poore Protestant prisoners in Turkey" would have been, but for those notable researches, a dead letter in the book of his little history, tradition has preserved an ugly report of his own unquiet and imprisoned spirit. What child, or eke man, and woman too of our town, but has, some time or other, been terrified or amused by the story of Gayer the revenant. On the high gable end of his former dwelling which abuts on an irregular triangle formed by the houses behind the chantrj', the gigantic initials of his name, in the Italic character are yet visible ; they are noticed in a metrical version of the legend thus : — " Behind the chantry mote be yred. The initial scroll of the burgher dead ; Stout of heart they esteem the A\aght AVho reads those letters at dead of night. Though the moon be glinted back the while From the oriel lights of the chantry aisle : Never pass but breathe a prayer For the soul's best peace on Master Gayer ; Ta^dio vitse quo confectus. Nunc ad aethera transvectus, Socius fuit qui sanctorum Coelu gaudeat angelorum ; Where life's troubled waters rest In the haven of the blest." II. Mr. W. Moss. — This gentleman's family was of Elmead, in the parish of Inwardleigh, and retained its adherance to papal doctrines, which indeed affords a clue to his being associated in the commission above noticed. The ruins of their domestic chapel might be traced there *Some further notes on this Okehampton worthy will be given in the Appendix to the preeent volume. — Editor, HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 10^ wnthin the memon- of persons now living,* and two altar tombs in the Cliurcli-vanl of the same parish, point to wliere the last of tliis loiiy extinct race were gathered to their fathers. A relic of their social existence — it may be a solitary one — is pre- serv-ed in the collection of Capt. Hamlyni, of Scaicord, a small drinking hom with a silver rim, and having the family name engraved on it externally. — Sic transit gloria ! *Justice to village merit requires the acknowledgment that our more usual guide has, in this notice at least, been anticipated by another Browne Wilhs of the district, Mr. Wm. Rich, parish schoolmaster of Sheepwash. SECTION XII. " P'rom thee be far the ungentle deed The honours of the dead to spoil, Or take the sole remaining meed, The flower that crowns their former toil." Langhorne. Ecclesiastical Antiquities. I. — Brightley Priory, . s^ja-^ WE resume this portion of our subject by calling attention to the traces yet left of a religious house of the Bernardine, or as it is more commonly called, Cistercian order, once existing at Brightley Bridge, near this town : the spot derives additional interest from its having been a Mother house to the great abbey of Ford,"^' in this county. It is curious that so diligent an antiquary as Risdonf should have fallen into error as to the original site of this monastery, he assigns it to Chittlehampton, and a sub- sequent writer, has given the honour to Sampford Courtenay ; ♦Sir AV. Dugdale's Genealogy of the Courtenays is drawn, in its earliest portion from a register kept by the monks of this house. tWcstcote, in his View of Devonshire, published in 1845, mentions his friend and contemporary in terms which shew the high reputation his researches had acquired for him. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. Ill but the cause of the monks' emigration, the barrenness of the country near them, is at variance with Risdcin's state- ment ; the other opinion has been retracted in a letter to us of much courtesy by the author himself.* " The hoary remains of Brightley Priory are fast sinking under the weight of years ; the fabric, still venerable, being for the most part levelled with the dust, or rudely overgrown with moss, and still more ignoble weed. The walls, whereon ■were seen sainted image and idol-picture, are now desecrated by ivy and thorn-bush. Through aisles, that once echoed to the measured chaunt of praise, the blast howls in hoarse answer to the dashing river beneath, f and though summer, in her walk through "the rolling year" lulls both of them awhile by her sultry charm, the monks' complaint is justified, as well in seed time as in harvest, by the barren heath opposite. Where now, let the thoughtful wanderer question himself, are the silent cells in which — it is the more charitable view — the brethren kept their lonely vigils ? Where the choir in which they published His glorious Name ? Where the secret glades of their commun- ing and being still to ponder on His wonderful works ?"l The only relic time has spared is now appropriated as a barn, or to yet viler purposes ; but a low door, with its Saxon arch, yet perceptible on the north side, serves to indicate its former sanctities. We have said however, that ' *Tlic Reverend George Oliver, official in the Roman Catholic com- munion, at St. Nicholas prioiy, in Exeter ; the mistake was corrected for J.ysons' Devonshire^ in the Magna Britannia, by the Rev. P'rancis Huyshe. tThe ruin stands on the left bank of the united Okments, immediately above Brightley bridge and about I5 mile N.E. from the town. ];From Bridge's MS., indited on the spot. 112 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. the place acquires interest from its connection with Ford Abbey. II. — Ford Abbey. If the original site of this celebrated house can be dubious, not so the manner and circumstances of its foundation. Richard Fitzbaldwin,*' in the second year of King Stephen ; as we learn from Dugdale's Monasticon, placed at Brightley, twelve monks, sent by Gilbert their abbot from the great monastery of Waverley in Surrey. The monks began their journey on Holy-rood day, so called from a piece of the true cross being recovered, we are told, from the infidels on that day by one of the Greek emperors. f It does not seem, however, to have been too propitious to these holy pilgrims, for five years afterwards we find them petitioning to be re- called from Brightley, urging in plea of their suit that the country about them " produced only thyme and wild night- shade ;" a petition the more remarkable as the houses of the Cistercians were all founded in solitary and uncultivated places. Their plea, however, was allowed, and the holy brethren were travelling on their way home again with Robert de Pennington, second prior of Brightley, at their head, and walking two and two, the cross borne before them, when the incident occurred which ended in their final settlement at Ford Abbey. The Viscountess Adeliza, sister and heiress of the above Richard, who died seized of the largest estate in the country, chanced to encounter the holy brethren as they journeyed through her manor of Thorn- *Richaid Fitz-baldwin died 25th June, 1137, and was buried at Brightley ; his remains were subsequently removed to Ford. tin an old song called the Collier of Croydon, youths are specially exhorted to go a nutting this day. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. II3 combe.* On being told the cause of their return she set herself immediately to obviate it : " Far be it from me " she said, "that what my lord and brother hath devised for the honor of (iod, and the welfare of his Church should fail through stint of mine." And she forthwith bestowed on them her manor and mansion of Thorncombe: whence six years after they removed to St. INIary's, the splendid abbey built for them at Ford.f This abbey had once, we are told, been considered by the Courtenays as "the first feather in their train;" but after no long time the brethren became much estranged from that noble family. We have before glanced at these differences : " the profuse devotion of the first three generations was followed by oppression on one side, and ingratitude on the other : and in the sixth generation, the monks ceased to register the births, actions, and deaths of their patrons.":]: Those patrons, it must be confessed, made but indifferent religious, although as secular clergy they rose to merited distinction : friar John de Courtenay — who was chosen abbot of Tavistock in 1334, and greatly diminished its *Ricardus de Albrett, alias Brionio, baro de Okhampton, fundavit monaster, in loco vocato Brightelej', ct ipso mortuo, abbas et conventas pr?e penuria illic decesserunt, et Adelicia, Sororuipsis Ricardi, ipsos conspiciens demigrantes versus Waverle, unde prius venerant, eos retraxit, &c. — Leland's CoUcctaiiea. tThe manor of Tliomcombe, with Eastford and West ford, and five knights' fees, under the honor of Okehampton, were assigned to Ford Abbey. JThe patron of an abbey had the custody of it during a vacancy, when the new abbot was elected on a conge iVelire from him ; but if this exceeded three months, the period fixed by the canons, the collation lapsed to the bishop. The canons of tlie cluirch permitted the patron, and him only, to occupy a seat within the cliancel or choir at a time when that part of the buihUiig was ])artitioned ofl' from the nave, and reserved for the exclusive use of the clergy. — Kcnnett's Paroch. Antiq. H 114 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. revenues — is described as passionately fond of field sports, very conceited and foppish in his dress, and a most incurable spendthrift. The endowments of Ford were however — luckily for its inmates — beyond the reach of abbot John's prodigality, and they continued to view in affluence and safety the rise and fall of their successive patrons in the same line, until the stormy days of the Reformation proved alike fatal to either ; the same fiat which consigned Henry Marquis Courtenay to the headsman transferred their abbey, and many another goodly possession of the Cistercians of Ford, into more secular keeping. At the dissolution of the religious houses, however proper might have been the con- version of their revenues or otherwise, we must still admire the levity with which they were squandered. " Cheap penny-worths," says old Fuller, in his quaint but expressive manner, " were at that time obtained out of the lands of the Church ;" singular instances of which — if indeed anything could be called singular where caprice ruled throughout — he has himself recorded.* III. — CowicKE Priory. Another religious house, St. Andrew's priory at Cowicke,f of the order of St. Benedict, had more intimate connexion with the town than that just noticed ; not so much as regards the baron's patronage — (it was founded by Thomas Earl of Devon, about 1450) although the first mention of Cowicke occurs at an inquisition taken after the death of Lord John *" Henry was one day playing at dice with Sir Miles Partridge, when the King staked Jesus' bells, that were as great and tuneable as any in Lon- don, and lost them at a cast ! " — Fuller. fArms, Three cows passant sable, collared or, eyed gules. — Oliver. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTOX. II5 Courtenay, there noticed as its patron — but in that it inchided among its endowments the appropriation of Okehampton. Of the following items, the former may refer to some reserva- tion made on the appointment a stipendiary vicar,* when the practice of serving the Church by one of their own order had been found subversive of monastic discipline. Taxatio Bon. Eccles. tem. Ed. I., Prior de Cowyke habet de portions Vicarie de Ochampton 13s. 4d. (1288, Johannes Hollwell). Bishop Grandison in his return, tem. Ed. III. states Prior de Cowych obtinet eccla de Ochampton, val. per an. 12 lib. This priory,f subordinate when first instituted to the great abbey of Bee in Normandy, was situate in the parish of St. Thomas by Exeter ; although the exact site is not now known : it has been included, incorrectly, among the alien religious houses suppressed, (2 Henry IV.), by the parlia- ment holden at Leicester, but was often seized on as such during the wars with France. Robert de Rouen, the last prior, surrendered it to Eton College, 22 Nov., 145 1, by deed executed in the provost's chamber there ; a measure in which he is supposed to have been influenced by Thomas Courtenay, Earl of Devon, who had been a benefactor to the new establishment. The donation however was subsequently transposed to the abbey of Tavistock, since by letters patent *At first tliese were wretchedly paid, and what was worse, moveable at jileasure : the statute (4 Henry IV., c. 12.,) while it corrected these abuses, provided, that no reli{,'ious (regular priest) should in any wise be made vicar in any church appropriated. tCowicke priory held the manor of Christenstowe under the barony, it had attached tlie chapels of Kenne and Sticklepath, but the patronage of these also was vested in the lords of Okehampton. Il6 HISIORY OF OKEHAMPTON. from the Crown, bearing date 4 July (31 Henry VIII.) Cowicke and Christenstowe, with various advowsons there named and described as belonging to that dissolved founda- tion, were conferred on the Lord John Russell, and the Lady Anne, his wife. IV. — Okehampton Church. The parish Church of Okehampton, now standing,* appears to have been built by prior Thomas of Cowicke ; and was consecrated, to the service of God, and the honour of all His blessed Saints, on the last day of July, 1261, by Walter Bronescombe the diocesan. This prelate is mentioned as being remarkable for having raised himself by industry from a very mean parentage to the bench of bishops and to the episcopal throne in his native city of Exeter. Bishop Bronescombef left behind him, however, many proofs of a patrician spirit, among others, old Fuller reckons, that the Archangel Gabriel was indebted to him for instituting, at his *It was burnt down in 1842 (see additional notes in the Editorial Appendix.) tWestcote mentions a brawl between the Bishop and the Patron of Clist Tomison, (Bishop Clyst) where he (the Bishop) had built a sumptuous house, which he left to his successors, " At the funeral of one of his chaplains, among the results of which was that the poor friar got a posthumous ducking in the river, at which the Bishop was so much offended that he fell out with the gentleman and proceeded to ex- communication, but he (the Patron) at length, purchased his peace and quiet at the expense of the Advowson and a piece of land into the bargain, granted unto the Bishop and which continues in the hands of his successors to this day." But Izaacke affords grounds for doubting this scandal. Walter Bronescombe was Bishop of Exeter 23 years, died 22 July, 1 28 1, and buried in his own church. His arms were — Or on a chevron sable, 3 cinquefoils of the first between two keys erect in chief and a sword in the second. Izaacke. His register shows how numerous were the churches he dedicated. In a single year (1268) he dedicated no less than 40 in Devon and Cornwall. o O z O I- O HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. II7 proper charge, a feast day to the angel's honour. We learn from Sir William Pole's Collec/ions, that " the Vicar of this church was to find a chaplain always to serve in the chapel of the Castle, also in the chapel of Brightleigh, of the Lords (Courtenay) purchase, which is in the castle of Exeter."* Mr. Richard Bowden appears on the town records, as Vicar of this parish in 1588 (31 Elizabeth); on a perambu- lation of boundaries, in 1610 ; on the judge's order respecting the town lands ; and lastly when, thirteen years later, his name occurs together with that of Ann Harragrowe, his wife, as executor to the will of Richard Harrowgrowe, containing, among other bequests, " Item : — I give towards the reparation of the organ of the said church (of Okehampton) fforty shillings. Item : — I give to the Maior of Okehampton and his successors for ever, one annuity of six shillings and eight- pence out of my lands called Broadamoore to be bestowed on a preacher to preach yearly a sermon for ever in the church of Okehampton the second Sunday after Easter in the forenoon, in which I desire him to exhort to faith and good works, and stir up others to good works, to make mention of such as heretofore have given either lands or goods to charitable uses in this parish." *The chapel of our Lady within the Castle of Exeter with its four Prebends was granted by William Avenel to the Monastery of Plympton under Prior Geffry, who was elected in 11 28, but Robert Courtenay Vicccomes, appears to have transferred one of the Prebends, Ashclyst to the great Abbey of Torre. — Oliver's Collections, page 139 &c. The chapel stood on the south-eastern side of the Castle, and is su])posed to have been built by Richard, the son of Baldwin de Brioniis, Baron of Okehampton, and Viscount of Devon, who was first appointed to the office of Castellan of Exeter. Il8 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. At a date two years earlier (Jan., 1621) we read, "/« testa- viento Georgii Cottle nuper parochice St. Atidria ifi Holborne, London, Gent., defuncti, &"€., dfc., ut stgm'tur, viz. :" — " Item : — I doe give and bequeath to the parish of Oke- hampton where I was born, three pounds yearly to the poore, and ten shillings for a sermon on St. George his day in the forenoon, and the residue (of the interest of fifty pounds) to be spent upon those that shall be present at the same sermon either at a dinner or other meeting the same day." A niur.il tablet of brass in the south aisle, erected during this incumbency, represents a mother and three daughters in the attitude of prayer before an altar, with this inscription beneath them : — " Here under lyeth Thomasin Godolphin, wyfe of Thomas Peter, gent., who died the 9th of Sept., 1608 ; — She was to God and husband trewe, A mirror for all wyves to viewe : The poore, the lame, the sycke and needy. She did relieve most liberally ; She lived soe good and godly life. As never wronged man, maid or wyfe And made so good and godly ende. As none the same on earth may mende. The following letter bearing date 5th, 1631, was addressed to Mr. Bowden's successor (John Hussey) by Dr. Joseph Hall, the Diocesan ; we give it in this place, although it will be observed, the subject of complaint refers more particu- larly to the town chapel and its service : " Saint in Christo. I heare that (which I am soriy to hear) the Liturgie of the church, is much neglected in your chappie at Okehamp- ton, being not fully read at any time by the curate there, and not at all by the Lecturer, and not well frequented by the people when it is imperfectly HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTOK. II9 read, this thing you knowe to be contrarj' to the Laws and Cannons of the Church, and his majesty's late instractions, accounts whereof will be strictly called for in the Metropolitan Visitation now ensuing. I thought goode, thereof to lay my stricke charge upon you for the present and constant redresse of this neglect, desiring and charging you that your assistante there omytt noe part of the holy and commendable devotions, and to invite the people to a due frequenting and pious attendance thereof — whereof not doubting, I commend you to the blessing of God, and sign myself your loving friend and diocesan," Jos. EXON, Mr. John Hussey, Vicar of Okehampton. 31 March, 1634. The Bishop again addresses INIr. Hussey on a complaint made by the curate here of hard measures from the corporation, in his sudden removal — " If they shall take upon them," writes Dr. Hale, "to place and remove curates, they must know I may not beare soe injurious an encroachment upon Episcopall power." The Burgesses make comment on this — "that albeit the Lord Bishop hath power to place and remove curates, yet the Corporation hath power to with-hold the pay if they see cause." The annexed draft of a petition presented in 1646 indicates that the next Vicar, Mr. Richard Mervyne, shared in the vicissitudes to which his order were, at this period, so peculiarly exposed : — "To the Honourable the Standing Committee of the County of Devon — the humble petition of the Mayor and Burgesses and Inhabitants, — In all humbleness showeth — that whereas your Petitioners have been de- prived of a Minister for divers Sabbaths, &c., and having heard of IMr. "Ware, we are become humble suitors that the said Mr. Ware may &c., if it shall please Almighty God and stand with your good pleasure and favour. And your petitioners as in duty bound shall for this have great cause to prayse Almighty God, ever to pray for the prosperous proceed- ings of the high Cort of Parliament, the wished and desired place and truth in this kingdom and your health and happiness. (Signed), Peter Rattenbury, Mayor.* *Mr. Peter Rattenburj^ filled the office of Mayor from the death of Mr, Hill, to the 6th October, 1646. 120 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. Reply. At the Standing Committee of the County Devon. August I2th, 1646. Because ]Mr. Ware is unknown to the Committee, it is ordered that he bring a certificate of his honest conversation from his former place of residence to the Committee at Exon, the next Assize weeke ; and soe the Committee will take further consideration of the Petitioners' desire. (Signed), Nic : RowE. In 1652 however Mr. Mervyne had returned to his sacred duties, and we incline to a belief of this gentleman's popu- larity, — will it be excused us ? — from the fact that Mr. Shebbeare in one place denounces him as a " bitter enemy to the .Mayor and burgesses." Oct., 1654. The second and fifth bells in the tower of this Church were, at this time, " new cast at a very costly rate." A mural tablet in the South aisle afforded indirectly the only memorial, we have discovered, of the next Incumbent. "To the memory of John Haynes, Esq., a native of this town, born of honest and industrious parents, though of low and obscure condition ; first instructed as a poor scholar, then going to London by the benevolence of Mrs. Rebecca Hussey — (widow of Jeremy Hussey, once Vicar of this Church, and a man eminent both for his piety and learn- ing) — was happily recommended to the most Reverend Archbishop Tillotson's family as Clerk to the Secretary, 1692, continued with Archbishop Tenison to 17 15, who had appointed him his Registrar of the diocese and province of Canterbury for life. — Born Jan. 1672 : married Feb. 1708 : and died February i, 17 19." In the spring of 1671, we learn from a portion of the HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 121 pavement, which formerly was placed, close to the south- western pillar — Mr. Shebbeare was bereft of the child, whose descent may have been noticed in his Book of 1669. "Here lyeth the body of John, son of Richard Shebbeare, Gent. — who was buried the 25 day of April, 1671 : — God shewed this child unto us ; we awhile Rejoiced in his lovely looks and smile ; At length who gave him tooke ; we kiss the rod Syth this our little one is great with God ; In heaven wee had a father — now he's gone. In heaven wee have a father and a son." The father's heart was chastened— not weaned by this loss — from the affairs of the municipality, where after no long time we find himself and the Vicar of the parish again at issue. At the contested Election in 1676, old Richard tells us "that when Mr. Hussey (this was the son of the last Incumbent) gave his voyce for Mr. Calmady, his voyce was refused because he could not prove his Vicaridge to be within the Borough." There was a monument of this date in Keckbeare Aisle. Mary Rattenbury, widow of Francis Rattenbury of Keck- beare,*' gent., died 14 May, 1676. Two years later begins the oldest existing Register of Burials headed thus : — A true and perfect Register of all such persons (and their qualities) who have been buried in the jiarish of Okchampton since the ist day of August, 1678 in pursuance of an act of Parliament made the 15th day of July, 30 Car II. for burying in woolen only." *At Southacott in the hamlet of Keckbeare, which is attaclicd to this Parish, is an ancient cross of granite, licing rudely carved on one side, the figure of a monk, liis luinds clasped as in prayer, on the reverse, the crucifixion — but both are now nearly obliterated. 122 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. On the 2nd day of July, 1701, the Incumbent himself appears on the record of deaths, and was succeeded by his son, Jeremiah Hussey, who married in 1707, Ann, widow of Francis Nation, Clerk, (he was the son of the old cavalier parson of Inwardleigh, and his curate there) mentioned at page 95 and was buried on the 24th March four years after. During his Vicarship the monument formerly seen in the north-east or Keckbeare Aisle to the memory of a gentleman often noticed in these pages was probably erected: "Benjamin Gayer Hujatis Gen : qui hujus Burgi Prsetura honorifici quater Perfunctus, Quinta demu vice, non ambitu suo, sed Bonorum omnium suffragiis ad idem Manus suffectus, praematma moite ex auctora- tus inter mortales esse desiit Maii xxi. ^tatis anno LIV. ^rse Cristiianse MDCCI." The following on a vertical slab in the east wall of the chancel externally, but enclosed within an iron railing, affords at once a memoir and epitaph — by no means a trite one on the next Vicar : — " Exuvias suas, in spem. beatse resurrectionis, hie potissimum loci condendus legavit Eduardus Cornish, hujus Parochise vicarius, ne ossa sua priusquam extrema cinererit turba moveren- tur quod nescicit, ut omnes Parochianse ac praecipue Vicarii, successores sui bona fide caveant, obnexissime rogat. Ita et illi mise- ricordiam inveniant in ultimis ilU die. Obiit quarto die Martii Sepultus est sexto A.D., 1715." HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 1 23 A translation by I\Ir. Whyte is attempted in the original MS., but as it does not convey the spirit of the epitaph, we prefer to append the following : In this chosen place the remains of Edward Cornish, Vicar of this Parish, are laid up in hope of a blessed resurrection. And to the end that none may unknowingly disturb or move his bones till turned to dust, all Parishioners shall make known to the succeeding Vicars, in particular, this earnest request, and strictly bind them in good faith to observe the same. Even so may mercy be found in the last day. Died 4 March, Buried 6th, 17 15. An hiatus in the Burial Register beginning 23 INIarch, 1 715, occasions this explanatory note — " Omittuntur reliqui a Dno Bagwell usq : ad diem 10 mensis Julii A.i)., 1717, quo ipse ejectus est superinducto." T. E. Timothy Edwards, clerk, succeeded the ejected Mr. John Bagwell ; then appears to have been John Vick'ry as Vicar and INIayor.* We give the following tradition concerning a flagon, given in the time of this Vicar, which composes part of the altar plate — (without vouching for its authenticity) — Hester Rattenbury supposed to be the grand-daughter of Robert Rattenbury, Gent, sometime Mayor of this Borough, after a protracted illness lay to all appearance, dead, and the friends had assembled to attend her body to the resting place of the venerable dead. But the person engaged in performing the last offices, remarking the want of that change which be- tokens actual death, thought of holding a looking-glass over her mouth. On its removal a hue as from breathing was *See additionz^l notes on the office of Mayor, 124 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. detected on it. She was in a short time restored by bleeding, and in grateful testimony of her providential escape, pre- sented the flagon which bears her name and family arms. She was buried on the 14 Oct.. 1770. Thomas Par Hockin, Vicar, died 1790. Humphry Aram Hole. T. Huyshe, Vicar from 181 5 to 1822, when he resigned. Thomas Tanner, 1822, died. James Richard Whyte, 1834, resigned. Wm. L. Coxhead, 1840, resigned. B. W. Savile, 1841, resigned. S. Bradshaw, 1847, resigned. T. Downhall, 1850.* Curates. H. M. B. Barnes, 1835. Wm. L. Coxhead, 1838. Fran. E. B. Cole, 1842. f James Mules, 1847. John Downall, 1847. Horace W. Thrupp, 1850. Hen. H. Bradshaw, 1853. Wm. H. Hampson, 1854. James Rathborne, 1856. f James Mayne, 1858. fH. S. Wright, 1858. Geo. H. D. Branscombe, 1859, It was a custom, and is observed in many countries to this day, decently to plant rows of trees in the church- *Now the Archdeacon of Totnes (1859). See hst of Archdeacons to follow. tXhese were only curates pro tern, and not licensed. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 125 yards, under whose flowing shade both before and after divine service, the people might refresh their souls by con- templation. If this be unreasonable to suppose, it cannot however be denied, but that those trees with their thick branches, were of great defence to places of worship, from the fury and rage of storms and tempests. We read that the Vicar of Hull once ordered his men to cut down one of the largest and most ornamental trees in the yard, and they had scarce obeyed his commands, when the Mayor hearing of it, committed the Vicar's two men to prison, for daring to commit such an action without advice and consent of the Bench and the Churchwardens, and sending the next day for the Vicar, told him — that by the constitution of the Church neither he nor his predeces- sors or any other person, had power to destroy what was placed there for the preservation of that venerable building ; after thus reasoning with him the Vicar acknowledged him- self wrong and craved pardon. He also consented, at his own expense, to plant six trees in the churchyard, which was done. There are several spreading colonnades of elm trees in Okehampton churchyard, planted, as we learn from Sheb- beare's manual, in the winter of 1685-6. In the Taxation Bononan Ecclcs., begun by order of Edward I. (a.d. 1288) and finished in 1291, are the following items relating to the Piiory of Cowyck : Prior de Cowyk obtinet de Spreyton — Val per aim C.s. Idem obtinet de Okehampton ^Val per ann XII lib. £ s. d. £ s. d. 20 o o 2 o o 9 o 2-i O i8 If 8 4 7 O i6 5i 126 HISTOkV OF OKfiHAMPTON. Bishop Veysey's Survey, taken 3 Nov., 1536, by writ of King Henry VIII. Vicaria de Okehampton — Johannes Hollwell Belstone — Willielmus Dyscombe Cantaria de Stekylpath — Williel Dyscombe Rectoria de Sampford Courtenay cum Capella* de Brightleigh (a mistake see page 1 10) Williel Parkhouse 4/12 i 415 2^ In the grant of Tavistock Abbey by K. Henry VIII. — 4 July — 31st year of his reign, to Lord John Russell — are particularly mentioned : — Manor of Cowyk, ] Christenstowe, Parish Churches r Okehampton, of > Sprayton. Priory of St. Andrew, Cowic. The first mention of this priory, is in an inquisition taken after the death of John Lord Courtenay, who succeeded his father Robert in his honours and estates, 26 July 1242. Bishop Lacyf in his letter to the Barons of the Exchequer states that it accidentally took fire on Palm Sunday that year — and that its loss in buildings, moveables and cattle was computed at ^177 12s. 4d., a large sum in those days. The convent could not recover this loss, the Prior resigned in 1457. Henry VI. applied the revenues of this priory to Eton College, but thirteen years afterwards King Edward IV. transferred this donation to his favourite Abbey of Tavistock. Granted by Henry VIII. as above. *Probably at a place called Chapel. tHe filled the Episcopal chair from 1420 to 1455. HISTORY OP OKEHAMPtON. H"] John de Courtenay Abbot of Tavistock, 1334. This Abbot had very little of the spirit of a religious man. He was passionately fond of field sports, was very conceited and foppish in his dress and a most incurable spendthrift. In the T/ies. Eccks., 1770, it is mentioned : — First fruits f Okehampton. V. (All Saints) \\ath Okehampton ) yearly tenths 20 o o i Chapel in the Borough Rep. B. Proc. V's Syn. / 2 o o iis. Vd. Proc. Vs. vV. i80;^. Archdeaconry of Totnes, Deanery of Okehampton. The church stands about a half mile from the town, upon a hill, commanding a good view of the Park, town, &c. In 16 . . Six hundred yards of cause (way) was paved this year leading to the church and Bear bridge, which amounted to the charge of ii_;^ 13s. lo^d. — Shebbeare's y^^w/v/a/. SUPPLEMENTARY APPENDIX. Memoir on the Town affairs, written in Mr. Sarjeant Glanville's own hand-writing and preserved in the town chest. — This eminent lawyer was the second son of Judge Glanville of Kilworthy, near Tavistock, and was at this time representative in Parhament for Plymouth, and speaker of the House of Commons: he died in 1661. See Memoir of his life in Prince's IVorthies of Devon. Okehampton Town and Borough, (16 Martii 1640.) X^ THEREAS in or about the loth year of our \ \ late Sovereign Lord King James, upon the death of John Hele, Esq., the then Portreeve i')?'^^ and his brethren, Governors of the said town and borough, being or claiming to be a Cor- poration by Prescription, made choice of me to be of counsell for them as their Recorder. A suit was commenced against them or some of them, in the Court of Wardens, on the behalf of Baron Trelawney, the then Kings Ma'=- Warde, concerning their markets and comons, touching which the Earl of Salisbury*' was the *Sir Robert Cecyll, ist Earl of Salisbuiy, son of the celebrated Lord Burghley, he died in 1612. In a perfect Survey Booke in 1665, of the Messuage, Lands, &c., belonging in common to the tDwn and parish of Okehampton, we find mention of " Gertrude Hele, dafter of John Hele, of Hele, in the parish of Cornwood, Gent." HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTOX. 1 29 Lord Treasurer, and blaster of the Wardens, was petitioned by the defendants, who referred against to Sir James Ley, then Attorney of that Cort ; and after we procured tlic Master of the Wardes letter to the then Judges, having treated with the Lords of the Borough about it. It was referred to Gilbert ^lichell, Esq., for Mr. Trelawney and other the Lords, and to mee for the towne. Whereupon their being shortly after a meeting about it at Bodmyn in the presence of Sir Reynold Mohun, Mr. Edward Trelawney and others (long debate thereof being had by us) the Lords stayed their suite upon mine insisting that they could nott make ytt appear that more than eight shillings was ever paid yearly for the ffarme of the marketts. And other suites being brought in Chauncery touching Covenants and Leases of the town and parish lands of Okehampton unduly made and obtained, after Bills put in and answers returned for saving of expenses, a petition was drawn in the name of ]\Ir. Bowdon and others to the Lord Ellesmere, then Lord Chancellor, for a reference of these suites to the then Judges of Assizes of this county to hear and determine it at their coming hither. And after all partyes being hearde before them at several assizes, orders were made and agreed on in presence of most of the Parishioners by those'^' Judges, as thereby may appear. Albeit, 1 61 2. ?*Ir Tipper questioned the Market for King James pretending concealment, to wliom I replied, and after procured a stay thereof as by my letter to the townc may appear. And neare about that tyme Capten Hawkeridge *Tne signatures attached to the jud' Albany Savile, esq., I.L.D. Elected I 7 June, 181 8. Henry Prittie Baron Dunalley.f Elected 11 May, 181 9, -vW' Christopher Savile, deceased. George IV. 1 820- 1 826. Albany Savile, esq., LL.D. Henry Prittie Baron Dunalley. Elected 7 March, 1820. John Campbell, Lord Glenorchy.| Elected 16 June, 1820, vice Savile resigned. William Henry Trant, esq.§ Elected 2 June, 1824, vice Lord Dunalley resigned and elected a representative Peer for Ireland. 1 826- 1 830. Sir Compton Domvile, Bart.|| Joseph Holden Strutt, esq.^ Elected 10 June, 1 826.(^7) *Of Hans Place, Chelsea. Brother of his colleague. t2nd Baron, Dunalley in Ireland, died in Oct. 1854. jEldest son of the 4th Earl (afterwards ist Marquess) of Breadalhanc. succeeded his father in the Peerage in 1834, ^^^^ ^o\\ 1862. ^^Of Portland Place, Middlesex. Brother-in-law of Lord Dunallcv. was afterwards M.P. for Dover. i|Of Santry House, Dublin, ist Baronet, aftei-wards M.P. for J'lyniplon, c Neve's List and Oliver's are inaccurate. Compare the Lists in Mr. Randolph's Edition of the Registers of Bishops Bronescombe, Quivil, and Stafford (that is, of course, for as much of the groun4 4S they cover). HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. • 15! 65. George Snell. collated 18 May, 1694; on whose death, (14 Jan., 1700-1), 66. Francis Atterbury was collated 18 Jan. following, in- stalled by proxy 1 1 June following, resigned on his promotion to the See of Rochester. 67. Nicholas Kendall, instituted on the presentation of Queen Anne, 28 July, 1713, died 3 INIarch, 1739-40. yEtatis 84. 68. George Baker (son-in-law of Bishop Stephen Weston, and father of Sir Geo. Baker, Bart., M.D., late president of the College of Physicians), collated 26 March, 1740, died 28th January, 1772. ^^tatis 86. 69. Thomas Skynner, L.L.D., collated 10 March, 1772, on whose resignation for the Precentorship, 70. Ralph Barnes, M.A. (son of Henry Barnes, Esq., one of the Secondaries of the Court of Common Pleas, the well-known law-reporter) was collated 16 Aug., 1775, died 20 May, 1820. yEtatis 89. 71. Robert Hurrell Froude, M.A., instituted 30 I\Iay, 1820, and died 23 Feb., 1859. ^tatis 88. 72. John Downall, M.A., Vicar of Okehampton, was collated 12 March, 1859. 73. Alfred Earle, M.A., Vicar of West Alvington, succeeded 3rd October, 1872. Now Bishop Sufiragan of Marlborough, for the Diocese of London. Resigned in 1888, and was succeeded by 74. Chas. Thomas Wilkinson, D.D. (Dublin), Vicar of St. Andrew's, Plymouth, instituted on the 20th January, 1888. ADDITIONAL NOTES. Here follow a series of short notes and miscellaneous extracts more or less relating to Okehampton which are found appended in manuscri]it to the annotated copy of Bridge's book which we have been transcribing. These notes are for the most part m the hanilwriling of Mr. Fothergill and we present them to our readers almost in the same order in which he wrote them. We have adopted this course with them, as well as with the further notes which follow, in preference to burdening the pages of the book with numerous and voluminous foot - notes — the main portion of the book being therefore, to all intents and purposes, a reprint of the original edition. It must be understood that from page Ii6 of this volume appear now in print for the first time.— W. H. K. W. CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. Brock's Almshouse. — Richard Brock by will dated 19th of March, 1588, devised to his Executors and their heirs for ever a messuage with the meadow attached thereunto, lying in the Castle road within the borough, to the intent that habitations, gardens, and allotments should be equally granted thereupon to two decayed inhabitants of Okehamp- ton, the preference to be made according to the merits of the parties and at his Executors' discretion. Grace Brock's Gift. — Grace Brock, 7 May, 1638, ordered that /^lo should be paid after her decease to the HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTOX. 153 Mayor and Burgesses, to be employed in supporting this Almshouse (mentioned above) and its inhabitants placed therein by them, for ever. Gifts of Hurst, Cann and Ellis. — William Hurst gave four pounds to the poor of these Almshouses and Thomas Cann twenty shillings, which they directed should be expended in purchasing wood ; and John Ellis that the profits of ;^5 his bequest should be paid them annually. Harragrowf.'s Gift. — Richard Harragroe, ob. 1623, bequeathed to the Vicar, the Portreeve, and INIayor and Burgesses of Okehampton and their successors, ,1^50 10 purcha.se an annuity of ^'5 for ever, to he bestowed towards the wages of a faithful and learned schoolmaster, who should train the youth of the Borough in the fear of God and good letters. Also to the Wardens and Overseers and their successors, ^40 towards a stock for employing the industrious poor of the town and parish, all except Kigbear hamlet. Bickell's Gift. — Captain John Bickell delivered and gave to John Rattenbury at his request, ^40 in gold to be expended annually in the use and service of the Poor, at his (Rattenbury's) discretion. Field's Gift. — By Indenture, i June, 1672. Mary Field assigned to the Vicar, Mayor, and Portreeve of Okehampton and their successors, lands held by her in Broadnymet and Nymet Tracy, alias Bow, respectively, on trust, to pay to Diana Adean 25 shillings yearly for her life and after the donor's decease to permit the said Diana, if living, or such persons as Mary Field might appoint by her will, in case she died, to dispose of the remainder a sum total of the t5+ HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTOK. rents respectively to the poor. The Church tablet? lately removed, state that the proceeds of this bequest were dis- bursed weekly to the poor in bread or otherwise — Present value £6 6s. For a further account of the charities we refer our readers to the Reports of the Committee of the House of Commons on Charitable Bequests throughout England ; viz., page 208, &c. SCHOOLS. Before the year 1600, there appears to have been a school in this town, to which Mr. Carey was a liberal con- tributor. Prince observes in his Worthies of Devon, "John Cary, the eldest son of Robert aforesaid, married Anne, daughter and heir of Edmund Devick or Devyock of Keckbeare, in the parish of Okehampton, Esq. His pos- terity continued in that place for several descents ; of wliich race, Anthony (if it be not mistaken for Lancelot) Cary, Esq., gave a bountiful gift to the town of Okehampton, aforesaid, viz., the sum of sixty pounds, to continue in stock, to be employed for the better education of poor children in trades and occupations" (page 182.) The following entries are to be found in the town records. 1620. Peter Bolt, Minister for reading prayers at the Chappie and teaching children of the town and Borough 1623. Mr. Rich Bowden, Vicar, for , . . .at Chappie and for scholars £,\o. It also appears from the Corporation books, that several of the Rectors of Belston resided in Okehampton and were the masters of the Borough School (previous to the year lySo.) They had a house free of rent and ^15 per annum, HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 155 their duty was to instruct 6 day-scholars, free, and were permitted to take Boarders ; they had also to read prayers on Wednesdays and Fridays at the jMayor's Chapel and to preach at the Quarter Sessions. In 1647-8. It appears that the Schoolhouse, Townhall — Shambles, Bridges and Streets were repaired and amended, especially Bear-bridge. — Proceedings, Folio $^. COURT-LEFT. &c. In April 1656. I\Ir. Shebbeare introduces us to a new scene. The court-leet and baron of the feofTees of the borough, its jury and homage"^' — where Mr. Francis Rattcnbury is presented as son and heir - apparent of the late worthy Town Clerk, and bidden " to satisfy the court of his Releife, and to doe his ffealty, T0N. to return to Waverly in procession with their Abbot Robert, successor to Richard. — Grose Vol. II., page 63. Ford. — By an inter-marriage of Reginald Courtenay, temp. Henry II. ; the patronage of this Abbey came to the Courtenays, several were buried there. John C. was a great benefactor to this House. Clergy. — In 1427 loud complaints having been made by the Inferior Clergy as to the inequality of their stipends, it was ordained by the Superior Convocation, that each Bishop's family barber should shave each Priest, who had his orders from that Bishop without payment. — Wilking's Consilia. Monks. — The original of Monks in England may be dated from the first plantation of Christianity therein, that it is probable that some of the Druids having been converted from the Pagan religion, whereof they were the priests, be- came our first Monks, being thereunto much inclined by the severity of their former discipline. — Mackenzie on Royal Line of Scotland. CHARTERS, RENTALS, &c. Some inaccuracies and omissions occurrinj^ in our abstracts, we here give the transcript and copy of the libert3es and ffranchises granted of old time to the burgesses, &c., as made by Richard Shebbeare, in 1671. Zo all Cbristian people tbis present writing seeing or bearing TRobcrt ot Courtnege* senDctb greeting in tbe XorD (5oD JEverlastinge. IRnow ^e tbat 5 tbe sayC* IRobt. have given granted and by these my present deed confirmed with the assent and con- sent of Mar)- my wife and our heires to the burgesses of my ffree burghe of okehampton. Bll tbose tenements anD liberall eustonies which they had in the time of Richard the sonne of Bawdyn and of Robert the sonne of Reginald and of Mawde Aberenges his wife and Havisses of Courtncye my mother in the burghe and in the foreyne lands of the same. Ji)iel5ing therefore yearly of every burgage to mee and to my heires by tlie hands of my portrieve of the said burghe att the feast of St. Michael Tharchangell Xlld. and for all service and other demands to mee and to my heirs pertaining to them and to their heirs. ?rO bave anD to bOlJ) of mee and of mine heires by right of inheritance freely, quietly, peaceably and honorably for evermore in woods and plaines in wayes and paths, in streets, in common of pastures, in waters, in mills and in all places where I and mine heires to them and to their heires may reasonably warrant. 2ll60e wee have granted that the said Burgesses may yearly by their own j)roper Councell choose and depose a Portreive and a Beadle, and the same portreive may be qiute of Tallage, and the Beadle by Vld- •Between izi6 and 1272, see also pages 18, 56, &c. l6o HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. HnJ) if any plea or plaint appertayning to the Lord be commenced witliin the said Burghe within the same it ought to be determined, and if any man of those Burgei^ses make any fforfeite and is amerced for the same then hee to bee thereof quite and discharged for Xlld. JlnJ) if hee bee often times amerced by the judgement and counsell of the Burgesses and my Steward then he may be chartized according to the quantity of the trespasse. 5lnC) 'f any man take or purchase a new Burghe then he shall have timber to build his house by the advice of my steward and of my other good men in my wood of Okehampton ; fllgOC if the said burgesses or their children would be wedded or marry that they may soe doe ffreely wheresover they will ; ailj) alSOC that eveiy burgess may have a sowe and ffower piggs without any pannage in my wood* of Okehampton, alSOC that noe man shall buy any green leather or skinnes within the said burghe unless hee bee of the same, and for that shall pay noe tolls ; alSOC the portreeve shall gather the toll and hee to have for the same Xlld. of the said toll and alsoe shall he quit for that yeare of all taxes and tallage by the same voice. !Hl0OC of ware that passeth nott IVd. noe toll shall be asked or taken and if it passeth IVd. then to pay toll for a horse id., ffor every ox or other meete ^d., for five sheep id., for V. hogs id., for corne and garts nothing : al50C if any man buy or sell within the Longstone or 1 (SCtlD) must pay toll ; al60C if any man steale or beare away the said toll and he thereof convict shall pay for every ffarthing Vs. for |- Xs. and for every id. XXs. HllD alSOC if any burges ■w ill depart from the sayd burghe that hee may sell his burgage to whom hee will except to houses of Religion and over that hee shall pay his debts and alsoe give to the Lord Xlld. and to the portreive IVd., and to the burghe IVd. and then freely so depart. B160C if it bappetl any of the sayd burgesses have fulfilled the said reward then his wife and his heires may peaceably receave his lands and tenements ; alSOC if any man desire to have the ffreedom of the sayd burghe . . . the first year hee must pay to the Lord IVd. and to the burghe IVd. and the second yeare *" I gather by this charter of the borough, that at the tyme of this graunt, and all tymes before, either the Lord of Okehampton had noe park within the lordship, or else after this graunt hee did much enlarge his parke ; for all that wood and soyle on the south part of the Castle and borough, wherein by the instructions hereafter issuing they did release their comons of pasture is now inclosed in the parke, which att that time, as it should seemc, lay open and in comon." — Mr. Humberstoii's opinion as preset'ved by Shebbeare. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. l6l to the Lord only IVd. the third yeare hee may take a burgage or else pay as it is afore specified and depart ; ailD if" any man beare away tlie debt of any burges the burgesses shall attack and wiihold the goods of him thai hath borne the burgesses debt or cattle away untill liee bee thereof satisfied as right may warrant them ; alSOC noe man unlesse hee bee of ffree condition shall maintain anj- thing in the lawe against any of mv sayd burgesses. 21150C 3 Will that my burgesses bee quite of all manner of toll through all Devonshire where 1 and my heires of right mav warrant them. JlH rClltS Amercements and ffines of the said Burghe may bee paiil to mee and my lieires by the hands of the Portrieve there. auD for tbis mg ©iftc ©raunt an& Confirmation the aforesaid Burgesses have given me XLCW markes sterling; for IknOWlCDQC of the same and that it may abide stable for evermore this present deed with the print of my scale I have made strong these men beareing witness, .Sr. Regnold Courtneye, "William of Nymett, Sheriffe of Devon, Robert of Courtnaye with many others. Charter of Sir Hugh Courtenay, A.D., 1291. ■Univcrsis a^ quos prcscntcs bac tncvcniunt fl.iiuio ^c llourtnc^c, miles, pic= positus ct Comitatus JSuriii ^c Ohcbampton salutem in iN\o.) (SCiCtiS) quod cum controversiffi motx' essent inter predm. Hugoncm ex pie. una, prsposit. et comt. burgi de Okehampton ex altera sup. communibus pastune in boscis, wastis et aliis locis in mancio de Okehampton die. con- troversia in die. Hugonem praepoit. et comitatus conquierunt in hunc modum : V(5., quod pra;fati pra;posit. et comitatus per se, et hatred, vel assign, suas bona et CUriall voluntate sua. relaxarunt . . . clam dicto Hugoni civitatiis pasturam in toto Bosco dci. Hugonis sitam in australi pte. castri et burgi de Okehampton ubiq.; et omni tempore anni. Ct MWS. H^UtlO bona et mera voluntate sua dcto. pra^posit. et comit. subveniens per se et haered. suos concessit iisdem praeposit. et comit. et hrered. vel assign, suis quod habeant communem pasturam ad ... . per totum wastum suum inter .... terram suam arabilem de Wirham* versus austnnn et metas de Dartmore per tolum annuin, cum libo. et . . . . introitu •Birham was the name of tlic old cliunli here inontioiiLd in lliis thartcr.— Shebbeare's notes. K 1 62 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. et exitu dc buigo prdco. per medium predict, boscum suum austialem ]icr viam de CtoSUlOtC usq.; ad vastum prdm. Ct SilTlUltCC quod liaheant communem pasturam in communibus aliis suis per totum . dci. Hugonis de Okehampton a crastino scti. Michaelis usq.; ad medium mensis !Martii. JllSUpCt quod quilibet burgensis prredic. comit. habeant unam suem cum quatuor porcellis in bosco suo qui vocatur IbSCl^WOODS in Boreali pte. burgi pro tempore pannagii quiet de pannage per totum boscum predict, excepta pt. ilia bosci prad. quam tempore futuro dcto, Hugo vcl haered. sui duxerunt claudendo .... cum clausa fuit. jEt prffidic. Hugo et hsered. pr^dic. communem pasturam . . . . et pannagium procum prredic. ut prodest absq.; perturbatione diet. Hugonis vel ministriim suor. dicto comit. et haered. vel assign, suis usus quoscunq. tenenter warrantizare et defendere . . . . Et pro prsedic. communibus l^asturaj concedendis dederunt pra;dic. prrepoit. et comitatus diet. Hugoni, duo suo, duo dolia vini prSC niaillbUS. In cupis rei testimonium huic present! script, [turn] modo Cbirographi, praedic. Hugo sigillum suum quum prdcti. propositus et comtus. sigillum suum commune alternatim apposuerunt ; ejus testibus duo Henrico de Baileghe, Robto. Beaple milet. cum aliis. ©atUtll apud Okehampton in ftesto scti Thomo Martins Anno Regni Dni Edward Regis \'icesimo. SOME EXTRACTS EROM A RENTAL OE OKEHAMPTON .MAN(JR, I\L\DE zoTH NOV., 1593 (35 Eliz.) FREE TENANTS. Lancelott Caiy, gent., for Rosen Upcott, &c., yieldetli yearly, IVb. Vllld. George Yeo, Esq., for the manner of Holestock lis. IVd. John Fitz, Esq., for his mannor of Meldon, &c., Vs. IVd. Thomas St. Aubyn, Esq., and others for Bowerlands, lis. Edmund Ffurse, for Pudhanger alias Symon's parke, VId. The tenant of Stewerson for the same, XVId. The burgesses of Okehampton for Brightley, XVId. CUSTOMARY TENANTS. James Arnold holdetli by copy one tenement at Fatherford and yieldeth yearly, VIIIs. Edmund Ffurse holdeth likewise by copy two grist mills called the Custome mills and one ffulling mill Xlld., and yieldeth, Vs. Xlld. William Tarraynt holdeth by copy the milles called Castle mills and land called Bow-beare, and on Edge mill and yieldeth XXXVs. \'IIId, Nicholas Hill holdeth by copy likewise Knoll mill, and yieldeth, IVs. Jolin Maunder lioldeth yearly by copy one fi'ulling mill and yieldeth, Xlld. Mr. Thomas Peters for two tenements called Flyscombe and Sythaby yieldeth yearly, VIIIs. Vllld. BARTON HOLDERS. Richard Jordan for Jordan's Rail yieldeth by the year, IVs. John Barrens for a close of Barton land wlicrein the capital) inansion is, XIs. Robert AVebber for tlie Middle close, XXIIs. Richard Harrigro for Higher Barton, XIVs. 164 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. John Alford, gent., for the ffeme closes and ffish pooles, IVs. Vllld. The same John for one parcell of land called the Ponds otherwise the Lower ffishe poole lying by the Castle of Okehampton, IVd. FREE TENANTS OF THE AFORESAID MANOR, 1 639. The Lady Mary Howard, Vs. IVd. Sir Ffrancis Ffulford, Knt., for Darnford Headware, VId. Extracts from a Rental of the Antient town lands made in 1654 by Mr, Thomas Austyn, Town-Clerk. Computed Value in 1628. Mrs. Katherine Bowden, 7 acres, 00 14 08 00 6 08 00 15 02 VI/ XIIIs. XXXs. IVd. 03 06 08 00 06 08 XXX;^ IV^ Xs. Daniel Fishley, Sarah Growden, Mr. John Hole for St. John's lands ) o at Bow, 17 acres ) ^ Alexander Merrifield 125 acres John Northmore, gent., Mrs. Katherine Rattenbury, widow, ) m n6 3 acres j COMMON LANDS OF THE TOWN AND PARISH. The two widow Shorts, 00 06 08 FREE, CUSTOMARY AND CONVENTIONARY TENANTS OF THE BOROIGH IN 1669. The coheirs of Launcelott Calmady, gent. John Corindon, gent.. The coheirs of Robert Caiy, gent., John Can, mercer, Mrs. Hester Gayer, widow, Christopher Lethbridge, esq., Charles Lord Mohun, Ruth Newbury, widow, Richard Northleigh, gent., John Roole, Kt. of the Bath, Giles Risdon, esq., Richard Reynell, esq., in the right of his wife. The heirs of John Tavemer, gent., and a pound of wax, Xlld. VIIIs. Those pay suits of court VId. VId. VIIIs. Xd. VId. Is. VId. VId. Is. Hid. Is. VId. lis. IVd. Vllld. lid. VId- Is. Vllld. XVIIs. IXd. lid. VId. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTOX. 1 65 Extracts from the Receiver'' s Book for the Borough of Oke- hainpton. Temp. 17 and \% years of James 1st. "The accompte of John Ratenbury, gent., Chappie warden and receiver of the Rents, See, belotiging to the ffeoffs of the Borough afore- said for one whole yeare, that is to say, from the ffeast of Epiphanie in the yeare of our Lord God one thousand six hundred and nynteene, untill the same feast anno 1620." After mentioning the payment of rents, &c., received, he next gives an account of the disbursements : — Imprimis — paid to Mr. Peter Bolt, minister, for reading prayers at the Chappie, and for teaching children of the town as schollers. Item — paid to ^Ir. William Hurst, clerke of the parish for his allow- ance this yeare in attendinge at the chappie praiers. Will. Johnson's account for attending to the Clock. Paid to Henr)- Tothill, Esq., one year's annuity issuing out of the fourth part of the Borough lands purchased by the ffeoffees. Item- — paid to Edmond Bower for ringing the chappie bell. Item — paid to John Crigge for sweeping and keeping cleane the chappie and streets in the Market Place. Item — paid to Robert Bebycombe for amending the chappie bell whule and the stools in the markett, and for timber for doing it. Also he mentions the repairs of the chapel, and bills paid for lime, and pointing the Tower, &c., &c., besides 2000 shindells brought from Hath- erleigh for the chapel roof. Item — paid to James Heddon for carrjdng a letter to ffrancis Glanvill, Esq., at Tavistock receiving the collection for Bohemia. [Elizabeth the daughter of James I. was wife of Frederick V., Duke of Bohemia, and elected King of Bohemia, this may be the probable reason for this collection.] It appears that Richard Can was appointed Maior, and the late Mayor William Webberley warden for the next year. 1620. Item — given to Mr. Johnson, a poor minister, who preached here, August — 5s. Item — paid for the high rent of the tenements, called Westacott 1 66 HISTORY OP OKEHAMPTON. Mowcombe, St. John's land at Bowe, Muddaford Stratton tenement and Brightley. Item — paid for all the several high rents of the lands within the Borough, due at Michaelmas last, &c. Also dinners bestowed on the tenants and divers gents riding to the Parliament. Okehampton BoROUCtHE. The Accompie of Mr. William Wehberv, Chappie tvarde?i and Receiver, **M*<^^'- ,','C^-^'W^*^^!! t^.^' MARGINAL NOTES BY THE RE\'. II. G. FOTHERGILL & OTHERS* PAGE I. Celtic. Pryd and Cai7i : the C being lost in the latter word, for the more easy pronunciation in the British tongue, and the P in the former changed into B by the Romans for the more gentle and pleasant sound's sake. Britain derives its name from the Celtic words signifying — Beautiful, White. By the Greeks written W^vrxvu/x, by the Romans Brytania, or Britannia, the latter word referring to . . . [word torn away.] All tradition ought not to be thrown overboard lightly, as useless and unfounded, since it must have had an origin or fact to base the superstructure upon, though, in the lapse of time, the circumstances of the case might have been greatly mixed with some alloy in the fancy of the Poets ; and imagery of others, as there are sufficient grounds to suppose that through Brute was not the original founder, he was the first invader of this Island. — H. G. F. PAGE 2. The Druids. — This class was divided into three orders : the first were those who performed at the sacrifices and *The Editor ventures no comment upon these notes which were made upon the margins of Mr. Fothergill's copy of Bridge's history ; they must stand upon their own merits, and he taken for wliat they are wortli. It must be left for tlie reader to discriminate between what is of liistoric value, apart from the merely traditional. 1 70 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. were employed at or in the more solemn rites and mysteries of religion. The Druids derived their name from an old British word Dm or Deni, an oak. The second order were called Bards and composed the hymns sung at their religious ceremonies. Diodorus Siculus mentions their singing poems to the sound of an instrument not unlike a lyre. They also were the preservers of the memory and noble exploits of their heroes, and instructed the youth committed to the care of the Priesthood in all the branches of philosophy. They are supposed to have derived their name from the feathered songsters of the air — Birds are still pronounced by the peasantry of Devon — Bards.*' But more likely they obtained the name from the Welsh — "Bar" — a fury. The third order were called Vaids, Vates or Ovates, they devoted themselves to the study of Astronomy, Divina- tion, Augury, INIagic, Physic, and Natural Philosophy. PAGE 3. The Britons. — Probably known as the Cangi, who were shepherds ; those who worked in the mines were known as Danmonii. The Danmonii or Dunmonii were of Celtic origin and migrated here out of Gaul, in very early times. They were also a great mercantile tribe as the name denoteS; which is derived from the Phoenician words Dan, Dun a hill, and moina, signifying mines, i.e. — the country of mines. The Phoenicians began to trade with the inhabitants centuries before the Greeks discovered this island, about 450 B.C. or 100 years before the Belgae arrived in Britain. Pytheas, the Greek philosopher, gives an account of the *I would advise any reader, who has it in his power, to refer to Davies' Celtic Researches, page 117 &c., as well as to Dr. Whittaker's works upon this point. — H. G. F. HISTORY OF OKKHAMPTOX. 171 British Isles from his own insjtcction 839 B.C. In ihf time of Herodotus (445 B.C.) the Greeks were aware that all the tin they received from the Phoenicians came from Britain, yet they could then scarcely guess at our situation, but that very shortly afterwards a Grecian Colony settled here, may appear from the number of (jrcek words introduced into the language of the Dannionii. Athenaus, another Greek author, mentions that Iliero, King of Syracuse, procured from Britain a main-mast for his immense ship. Hiero died in the 94th year of his age, 225 B.C. Polybius (147 B.C.) notices this island as being plenteously stored with tin. PAGE 4. C^sar says they used to dye themselves with woad, which setteth a blue colour upon them. Pomponius Mela (45 A.D.) acknowledges the same. Herodian (247 A.D.) absolutely affirms that the Britons used no garments, but about their waists and necks wore chains of iron, supposing them a goodly ornament and a proof of their wealth : their bare bodies they marked with sundry pictures representing all manner of living creatures, and some with the sun, moon and the planets. Pliny adds that the women, both single and married anointed and dyed their bodies with the juice of the above-mentioned herb, previous to their attending the solemn feasts and sacrifices. Strabo says (25 A.D.) they " exceeded the Gauls in stature, of which I had ocular 'demonstration, being six inches taller than the tallest men." From the colouring of their bodies the epithet, " Coeruleis Britannis " was used by INIartial and " Viridesque Britannos " by Ovid. They offered human sacrifices as we are informed by Dion Cassius and Solinus. The practice of having their 172 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. wives in common is confirmed by Dio Nicceus and Euscbius. PAGE 5. Druids. — There are evident traces of theii learning and science still remaining, in the arrangement of their places of worship, each stone being fixed on astronomical principles ; from which, no doubt, the Druids were able to measure any number of degrees in a circle, so as to calculate the right ascension or declination of a star or planet, and perhaps to calculate eclipses as well, and discover the nine- teen years intercalation by the new moons and full moons elliptical. Their laws forbade any commerce with strangers ; this will account for the little knowledge the (Greeks and the Romans had of their learning and science. "That the Druids were skilled in various learning, is evident from the attestation of the Greeks and Romans," says Polwhele, in his Historical Vinvs of Devon, page 159. PAGE 7. BoADiCEA. — At Camalodunum, i.e. Colchester, London and Verulam, near St. Albans, she put to the sword all the inhabitants, amounting to 70,000 Romans, with their British allies, about the year 61. PAGE 6. — (note TO FOOTNOTE.) At Rhutupae, a seaport town on the Southern coast, some suppose it to have been Dover, but more probably situated near Richborough. — H. G. F. PAGE 8. VoRTiGERN. — There is a valley in Carnarvonshire that bears his name where he is reported to have fled from the HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. I 73 rase and persecution of his subjects for invilini; tlie Saxons into Britain. — H. G. F. PAGE 7. Scots. — Scot, in Gaelic, signifies a little or small division. PAGE 7. PiCTS. — The Picts so called from painting their bodies, as already mentioned. PAGE 10. HuBBA. — At Appledore, about three miles below Bide- ford, in Barnstaple Bay, it is said that Hubba landed and was discomfited and slain, with 1,200 men before Kinvith or Kenny Castle ; A.D. 878. PAGE 9. Exeter. — Caer, Isca — Supposed to have been built about the year 162 by the Romans on the site of an ancient British Town, and had the name of Exeancestre given it by the Saxons, i.e. a fort on the River Exeter. PAGE II. Tavistock Abbey. — The monastery was built 961 A.D. PAGE I I . Athelstane's Victory A.D. 929. PAGE 12. Arundell family, see Collinson's Somerset. Vol. 2, p 497 & 49. Vol. 3, p 26 & 509. Courtenay „ „ Vol. 2, pi 60. Baldwin de Brionys „ Vol. 2, p 454 & 36. Mohun Family ,, „ Vol. 2, p 7. 174 HISTORY or OKEHAMITON. PAGE 13. SouTHWiKE. — Southwick is in the Co. of Hants. Tlie Barons of Okehampton had several manors in Somerset, Devon, and other counties. See ColHnson's So?nerset. VoL 2, pp. 419 and 424. PAGE 16. CouRTENAY Family. — Richard Fitz-baldwin marrying one of the Courtenay family it came into their possession and so continued till Edward IV., who seized it for their adherence to the House of Lancaster. Henry VH. restored it, but Henry VHI. again alienated it. In Queen Mary's reign Edward Courtenay obtained a restoration, but dying without issue male, it came by a female into the IVIohun family, and by the like failure of a male issue, one fourth of it came by marriage to John Christopher Harris, of Hayne, Esq., whose son Arthur, dying without male issue it devolved to the Arundells, who took the name of Harris, and the father of the present William Arundell Harris Arundell, or grandfather, sold his right. — H. G. F. In the reign of George HI., Lord Clive of East Indian notoriety, became owner of the entire manor in 1 774, which was lost by his son committing suicide, and came afterwards into the possession of the Prince of Wales (George IV.); then of the late Henry Holland, Esq., Architect, and afterwards into that of Albany Savile, Esq., of Oaklands, whose son has sold the Castle to Sir Richard Vivian. The Park was bought some years since by Charles Luxmoore, Esq., whose nephew the Rev. John Luxmore is the present owner. page 27. TowTON. — The battle was fought 29th March, 1461, being Palm Sunday. Towton is a village in the West HTSTO^Y or Oki=;HAMMON\ I75 Ridinj? of Yorksliirc, about 2A miles South East of Tadcasler. There were 60,000 Lancastrians opposed to scarcely 50,000 Yorkists ; 36,000 men were killed in this battle. PAGE 29. Crockern Tor. — This Tor is nearly in the centre of the moors, being only half a chain difllerence between the South and the North measurement, and about three chains between the West and the East. PAGE 39. LvDFORD Law. — In Prince's Worthies of Devon, under Browne, is a full copy of the poem, more correct than this. PAGE 30. Sticklepath. — A respectable old man of 84 (\Vm. Curson) informed me his grandfather told him that the Sticklepiith chapel bell originally belonged to that of South Zeal, but whether it had been stolen or sold to them he had forgotten. page 32. CoLCOMHE. — One of the last earls had begun to rebuild it on a magnificent scale, but it was left unfinished. It is now in a state of dilapidation, and part of it fitted as a farm- house. It is situated in the Parish of Colyton. — Lysons, p 1 3 1 . page 32. The Courtenays had a castle at Chulmleigh, of which there is now no remains ; also the park has been converted into tillage land, more than 200 years. It was lost on the attainder of Henry, Marquis of Exeter. — Lysons, p 108. page S3. By a deed dated 1417, the Vicar is bound to perform daily Service. This chapel, which together witli the Vicarage 176 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. was granted and appropriated unto the Prior and Monks of Cowick, b}- and with the consent of Courtenay, the true patron thereof; the Deed refers to the endowment formerly granted in 1229. It appears that in 1417, in the time of Edmund Stafford, Bishop of Exeter, a dispute arose between the Prior and INIonks of Cowick with John Newcombe, the Vicar of Okehampton about the repairs of the chancel and providing of books. The latter was cited to appear before the Bishop at Clyst on the 3rd June, 141 7 ; to answer the charge of John Hethfield, the Prior's Chaplain, a Proctor, for neglect, when it was agreed that the Vicar should in future repair the chancel and provide the necessary books ; and in case of a visit of the Archbishop of Bishop the legal expenses should be paid half by each party ; that the Prior should remit 6/8 part of the two INIarks (an annual pension) due to the Prior out of the Vicarage. This was ratified and confirmed on the 29th April, 1417, by Ed. the Bishop. Then follows the Tenor of the Ordination or sentence of William, Bishop of Exeter (probably \Vm. Brewer) together with the endowment of the Vicarage. Dated at Exeter on the Tuesday in Passion week, 1229; and the Deed con- cludes with the attestation of John the Prior and the Monks on the one part and John Newcombe, the Vicar on the other, to abide by the agreement — ratified and confirmed by the Bishop. PAGE 56. — (Footnote.) The crest of the Town Arms is a single embattled Castle or Tower, Or ; which may be seen on the pulpit, the date of which is 1666, in the Chapel and on the Town Hall. HISTORY or OKKIl \M!'ION. IJ7 PAGE 5b, &C. ]\Ir. Edyc remarks tliat the Charier is very erroneously stated; he had a co])y taken carefully from an ancient one in London, and examinetl his with that in the Corporation Chest, and other old copies, and noted the diflercnt read- ings in various parts. Under the vellum copy from which he had his transcribed, was an entry of which the following is a translation, viz : — " Free Rents in Burgages of the Borough aforesaid." — " The Reeve of the Town or Borough of Okehampton renders to the I-ord yearly, at the Feast of Saint Michael only, as in free farm, or free farm of the whole Borough there, for the free Burgages within the Borough aforesaiil, or granted to them by the charter of the Lord Robert Courtenay and Mary his wife, as in ancient and preceding accounts charged /^n 8s. rod." The charter is attested by Lord Reginald de (Jourtenay ; William de Lymothe, Sheriff of Devon ; Robert de Courtenay ; Robert Ic Bastard ; William de Albamara ; Baldwin de Belliston ; Ellas Cofl'yn ; Ralph, son of RaljA ; Roger de Mcoles ; William de Leage ; Philip do I'etcr ; Angar de Vila ; Geoffrey de Meledon ; Geoffrey de la Hagge and many others. PAGE 57. "A castigatory for Scolds, a woman indicted for being a common scold, if convicted, shall be placed in a certain engine of correction, called ' trebucket or castigatory,' which, in the Sa.Kon language signifies the ' scolding stool ;' though now it is frequently corrupted into ' ducking-stool,' because the residue of the payment is, that, when she is placed therein, she shall be plunged in water for her punishment." Formerly most parishes had them, there are the remains of one at Belstone — standing in the centre of the village. PAGE 58. And for the grant ol' the free pannage of swine and L lyS HISTORY OF OKEHAMFTOX. exemption of Tolls, the Burgesses had given him ten marks sterling. PAGE 57. This waste seems to be the common beyond the Park gate, open to Dartmoor. Doles (dolea) of wine. PAGE 58. To this Charter of Sir Hugh's, the witnesses were Lord Henry de Raleghe, Robert Beaufrell, Knights ; Michael de la Hoke (or Hole), Elias Coflfyn, William de Cockescumbe, Roger de Dunneford, Walter Attebyare, and others ; and it is dated at Okehampton on Saturday, in the Feast of St. Thomas the IMartyr in the 20th year of King Edward (Edward I.) 1291. NOTE TO SECTION VIH.— APPENDIX. PAGE 68. Okehamptox. — Situated on the Ocrinum Jugum by the Rivers Ockment, was a town of some consequence in the time of the ancient Britons, preserving the communication between the Metropolis of Danmonium, and the country to the north of this chain of mountains. And Okehampton in a line with Exeter, might have been included in the Cantred^' of Isca — and the principal link in the great com- mercial chain. page 71. One hundred and eighty- five paces, facing N.W. having an entrance on the west ; and surrounded by a vallum, which *Tlie Cantied though inckiding a larger district, gave rise to the Hundred. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTOX. 1 79 commences within a few paces from the southern decUvity of the hill, but is totally lost on the N.E., inside this barrier are faint traces of another, which appears to have originally been built of stone (as many are to be seen lying about), nearly one huntlred and thirty paces in length, the encamp- ment is protected on the S. and E. sides by the natural declivity of the hill, here very steep, and at present over- grown with underwood and furze, except where the rocks show a bold front to impede the progress of the traveller, should he attempt to ascend the hill on either of these sides. Tradition gives it the name of the " Danes battery." I am of opinion that it was originally a British stronghold — made use of by the Danes, who threw up the outer work for greater protection. The numerous traces of houses, near any spring of water, also of roads and enclosed patches of land, to be seen in the Park- — lead me to imagine that this was the site of the original colony, that peopled, in later and more civilized times, the old town, situated near the source of the river Okement, previous to the Norman con- quest, when this spot was converted into a Park, being well- stocked with wood. — H. G. F. PAGE 72. Halstock Chapel. — The length of the Chapel is nine paces by four on the inside, this is enclosed in a sort of court or yard thirteen paces wide by twenty-three in length, and at the Western end of which, there are traces of a belfry or vestry. The whole length of the enclosed ground is thirty paces. There is a spring of water (enclosed with stones) on the N.W. side of the chapel ; and not far distant. — 11, G. F. l8o HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. PAGE 72. — (footnote.) Fengfield. — i.e. Fenwell or Venwcll as the peasantry call them, or more properly Fen-field, a right of depasturage and cutting turf from the fens or swamps, free of all costs, except a small acknowledgment to the Duchy as Lord of the Manor. This privilege of cutting turf, &c., has been handed down, through many generations, as a reward for destroying the wild beasts which in early times, so much infested the forest of Dartmoor. — H. G. F. PAGE 72. About 50 years ago the foundation walls were perfect, formed of goodly stone, no doubt since taken for repairing hedges. PAGE 72. Most churches dedicated to the honour of St. Michael the Archangel, are significantly situated on elevated ground, or else have high towers or steeples, of which, among many others that might be mentioned St. Michael's Mount in Normandy, St. Michael's Mount in Cornwall, and St. INIichael's in the Torr near Glastonbury arc notable in- tancess. — Collinson. PAGE 74. Crosses. — " The original intention of erecting crosses, whether in church-yard or in public roads, was to remind people of the meritorious Cross and Passion of our Blessed Lord and the duty incumbent to them to pray for the souls of their departed brethren. Formerly there was scarce a hamlet or village which had not one or more of these pious mementos, some of them were inscribed with the names of the erectors, and with admonitions to the devout pilgrim ; HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. l8l sermons were frequently delivered from them, and the knees of our religious ancestors with gladness pressed those steps, which the degeneracy of modern times has studiously contrived to unhallow and destroy." — Collinson. PACK 75. — (footnote.) After tlie attainder of the Marquis of Exeter the Courtenays again became (by bequest) owners of it through the widow of Sir Rd. ( irenville who gave it to Sir William Courtenay, he tlied in 1702. A descendant Ld. C. sold it with the INIanors of Halstock and INIeldon to Charles Luxmoore, Esq. PAGE 79. Pie powder court where justice is to be done between Buver and Seller and to redress disorders committed in them. PAGE 82. Beere Bridge. — Or Westbridge, over which corpses were carried to church. ADDENDA. NOTE TO PAGE 80. 1623. — INIr. John Bremelcombe's Petition to the Mayor, Burgesses and Assistants on being sworn into the second company. Okehampton i My humble request is that there be a seniority Town and Bui rough. )oh%Qrye6. and the Apostle's rules in j^oinj,' one before another, and that there be a reverent respect had of Mr. Mayor for the tynie beinj^ — and that the princi])al Burgesses and assistants doe accompany Iiim to and from Clnirch, Sabbath day, &c. Further my humble request is that there may be a good and laudable behaviour in all the Company, that others may lake example by your good carriage as it was learnedly taught last Sabbath day, and to tiiis entl if there be any that doe miscarry themselves to the disgrace of the rest, they soe offending may be fined, &c. 1 82 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. The reason why I request this, is that there be many that be apt to look into your carriages, and when you shall punish sin in others, they will say, "Physician heale thyself." — For I well know that Gentlemen of the Countrj' and Yeomanry will looke into your behaviour and the Towne's people alsoe. — Now the substance of all my request is that love may abound, which if it shall fall out otherwise and some of the company be turbulent and selfe- willed to the disquiet of the peace, and there be not immediately a reformation, &c. — then this shall be a sign of the discharging of this oath (then taken by him as a freeman of this borough) I will put of my cloke, or gown in the Hall, and goe out a stranger, as I now come in — this my oath or any thing therein contayned to the contrary, notwithstanding. Many things more 1 !iave to request you for the good of the company and the rest of the towne, which if I may obtain I shall be very thankful to you and ever remain yours to commande in all Christian duty, Sec. PAGE 8l. From the non-existence of the Deed of Consecration or any notice made of the Chapel of St. James the Great (July 25) otherwise called the Corporation Chapel, we can only conjecture the probable date, from its style of architecture. The tower appears to have been built during the 13th century, probably in the reign of King Henry III., or that of Edward I., a few years after Okehampton had obtained its charter, making it a Borough town. The Nave of the Chapel has been repaired at different periods. The South East Window is decidedly of the Tudor style ; square with ornaments at the upper corners ; the others are of common architecture, with the exception of the east window, which is apparently of the same date as the tower. There is a handsome old pulpit bearing the Corporation Crest (see note page 56.) Some have supposed it to have been brought from the Chapel in the Castle, but I believe it was only from its having a Castle upon it, that led to this conjecture. The HISTORY OF OKEHA.Ml'TON. 183 date on it was 1666. There are no monuments or indica- tions of burial within its walls, but a Piscina on the south side of the Communion table. The nave of the Chapel is lately (1862) rebuilt by subscription and gifts. The South Window in the chancel is the gift of Archdeacon Downall. There is a curious old bell in the Chapel, supposed to be cast about the 15th century, the following is a copy of the inscription around it. "Est michi collatum \]}5 istud nomen amatum." "The beloved name of Jesus was bestowed on me." H. G. F. PAGE 82. The first application of bells for church uses, is ascribed to Paulinus Bp. of Nola, a city of Campania, about 400 A.D. Hence, it is said, the names A^ola and Campancr were given them ; the one referring to the city, the other to the countrv. In Britain, bells were applied to church purposes before the conclusion of the 7th century, and they were therefore used from the first erection of stone edifices as parish churches among us. The number of bells in every church gave occasion to the curious and singular piece of architecture in the campaiiiilt or bell-tower, an addition, which is more susceptible of the grander beauties of architecture than any other part of the edifice. It was the constant appendage to every parish church of the Saxons, and in the laws of Athelstane it is actually mentioned as . such (A.D. 937.) In Popish times, bells were baptized and anointed Oleo Chrismatis, and blessed by the Bishop, from a belief that, when these ceremonies were performed, they had the power 10 drive the devil out of the air, and prevent evil spirits 1S4 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. from hurting or molesting the souls of Christians in their passage to another world ; to calm tempests ; to extinguish fire and to recreate even the dead. It was usual in their baptism to give bells the name of some Saint, and even a ritual for these ceremonies is contained in the Roman Pontifical. It appears from an old record, formerly in the possession of Weever, the antiquary, that the bells of the Priory of Little Dunmow in Essex, were. Anno 1501, new cast, and baptized by the following names ; — " Prima in honore Sancti IMichaelis Arcliangeli. Secutida in honore S. Johannis Evangelisti. Ttitia in honore S. Johannis Baptisti. Quarta in honore Assumptionis beatse INIaria. Qttinta in honore Sancti Trinitatis, et omnium Sanctorum. Weever also gives us an account of the Bells of the parish Church of Winnington in Bedfordshire, that had their names cast about the verge of every one in particular (like this at the chapel of Okehampton) with these rhyming hexameters : — " Nomina campanis hsec indita sunt quoque nostris, 1 . Hoc .si<;num Petri pulsatur nomine christi. 2. Nomen Magdalene campana sonat nielode. 3. Sit nomen Domini benedictum semper in cum. 4. Musa Raphaelis sonat auribus Immanuelis. 5. Sum Rosa pulsata mundique Maria vocata." — Encyclopadia. At Langridge, Somerset, there are three very old bells, with Latin inscriptions : on the first is " Cane, Johannes Apte," on the second, " Resono Michaeli landem," and on the third — " Sit nomen Domini benedictum." — Collinson. There are many instances of bells being named, too numerous to be mentioned here. HISTORY OF OKKHAMPTON. 1 85 PAGE 88. Charles, Lord Mohun. The following from a Review of Phillips's State Trials will throw some additional light on this nobleman's biography. In the trials of Lord Warwick and Lord jMohun for the murder of Mr. Coote (1669) we see a party, after a jiromiscuous scuffle and tilting at the Greyhound Tavern in the Strand, setting out in chairs in the midst of a dark night for Leicester Fields, where a duel immediately takes place and a death-wound is given : the chairmen who have scarcely had time to light their pipes are called to take up the dying man : one refuses at first for (as he states) seeing him bloody and not able to help himself, "I said, 1 would not spoil my chaii," — and the watch being called, decline coming near, observing that it was not " their ward." Lord Mohun's former trial (for this was his second) discloses circumstances more disgraceful to him- self and to the manners of the time. Captain Hill had made loose addresses to ^Irs. Bracegirdle, the actress (a woman of character) but supposed himself to be thwarted in his amour by Mr. Alountford, the celebrated player. Hill and Mohun one night attempted in public and by force, to carrj- off the lady from the midst of her friends : baffled in this gallant enterprise, they placed themselves in the street where ]Mountford lived, which was in view of Mrs. Bracegirdle's windows, and with wine and drawn swords, walked up and down, drinking healths, till Mountford came home, when Hill attacked him and ran him through. Hill fled, and Lord Mohun was acquitted. PAGE 90. It was observed above that Mr. Rattenbury from caution or disgust, withdraws from public life on the decline and fall of the King's party: — an order published at the Borough Sessions on the 9th of January, 1648, just one year before Charles suffered, opens a short series of notes by his successor on the town affairs, during the earlier part of the Commonwealth. The Municipal revenue, we are told, had been much impaired by the constabulary and " other great disbursements in the late times of distraction," it is there- 1 86 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. fore resolved that nothing thereafter should be paid " save only for Hues and Cryes, and for conveying of impotent persons brought hither to be sent elsewhere.". All charges for martial affairs being henceforth to be defrayed by a rate levied on the inhabitants. In 1651, the return to a quieter order of things may be traced, perhaps in several presenta- tions of tradesmen and artizans — a glover particularly for offences against the by-laws; and two years later the minute zeal of the burgesses is exhibited in a complaint that many housekeepers endangered the town's safety by building gorse-ricks too near their chimnies. At the same sessions, the Jury presented on oath of Richard Soper, the wife of one Joyle, for forestalling the market in divers things, as apples, herrings, plants, &c.; and not long after we read "that the street between Mr. Calmaday's door and John Seldon's door lyeth very dirty." There is a tradition (see page 94) that a battle or a skirmish took place between a party of the Royalists and some of the Parliamentary forces, near Okehampton, in proof of which canon balls and bullets have been frequently dis- covered in the fields, known by the name of Lakedown, belonging to the estate of East Lake, in the parish of Belston. There has also been found, two or three years since, in the neighbourhood of Okehampton, a medallion, formerly worn suspended round the neck, by either a chain or ribbon, by the Royalists to distinguish them from the other party, bearing a representation of King Charles the First on horse- back, riding victorious over a field of battle. And a ring with the arms of the Douglas family — a heart surrounded with Fleur de lis, one of which is broken off, and surmounted RING AND MEDALLION, (Mentioned in pp. I one lately destroyed (1842.) The inscription is in Saxon characters, j)robably of tlu' iiih or izih century. a Hiojv HQ ano ^ "^ Hic lACED ROBER The cross denotes that the person was an ecclesiastic. B might possibly refer to Brightley, of which he might have been a Prior or Abbot. j\Ioie is an old French word for ivd, damp, perhaps a marshy situation. This stone is now placed upright in the east wall of the new church, near the steps leading to the vestry room. It is a species of red granite. The Commons and Park of Okehampton, kv William Crossing, Author of '' Amid Devottias Alps,'' ''The Ancient Crosses of Dartmoor^'' etc. I .1 » W£ the old days when the perambulators of the bounds of the ancient Forest of Dartmoor were nearing the point whence they had set out — the huge hill of Cosdon — they reached the valley of the West Ockment at a place on the river called Sandy Ford. From here as the good men and true, " svvoren to enquire of the boundes and limitts " of the old forest, made their way eastward, they had on their right hand a vast stretch of wild moor, the brown, dreary looking ridges rolling away into the distance, while to the left of them were the commons belonging to the parish of Okehampton. Immediately within the boundary of these commons rose the broad shoulder of a lofty hill — the highest in our southern land — hiding the greater portion of them from their view, nor, indeed, in their progress over this part of the moor would these old jurors, from any point, following the forest bounds, behold the full extent of them. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 193 Over these wastes, reaching from the West to the East Ockment, and northward as far as the wall of Okehampton Park, the commoners have enjoyed rights of pasturage from very early times. These rights have been mentioned in the section on the Feudal Charters, as well as in the Additional Notes on Charters and Rentals. There is also a tract of land to the westward of the West Ockment, formerly belonging to the neighbouring parish of Sourton, which now the men of Okehampton claim as theirs. And this falls out in this wise. On the bleak hill-side a stranger was once found lying dead, and as it was in that part of the moor reckoned as belonging to Sourton, the people of that parish were called upon to bury him. This, it is said, they refused to do, an action so incomprehensible that we would fain hope that a misunderstanding, and not a cold disregard of the duties which such a case demanded, was the cause of it. But be that as it may, the men of Okehampton, so the story tells us (and a similar one is related of other places) stepped in, and taking the body of the unfortunate stranger they gave it decent burial, and as a consequence now claim rights of common over that side of the hill where the corpse was dis- covered. The confines of the commons towards the forest are marked simply by natural objects, aided here and there by a boundary stone, in the manner usual with all the wastes abutting upon the great central portion of Dartmoor, which belongs to the Duchy of Cornwall. The Park, which is really a part of the moor, as far as its natural features are concerned, is separated from the open common by the wall referred to — a thorough Dartmoor erection of granite 194 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. stones, laid without mortar, though exhibiting somewhat more care in its construction and finish than most of the new-take walls of the moor. This hunting ground of the old barons of Okehampton extends from Meldon on the west to Halstock on the east, and its northern side slopes steeply down to the banks of the two Ockments, which on issuing from the gorges by which they leave the moor turn towards each other and meeting form a natural boundary to the highlands. Immediately where the confluence of the streams takes place, the town of Okehampton is situated. In the section on Okehampioti after the Restoration is an entry setting forth how on the 13th day of May, in the year 1672, the Mayor with many inhabitants of the town viewed the bounds of the Dartmoor Commons belonging to their parish. This is now, and probably was then, a septennial custom, the last occasion on which the bounds were "beaten " being in the month of September, 1885. About ten o'clock in the forenoon a party of over one hundred persons on foot, together with some twenty-five horsemen, headed by a band of music, set out from the town for the commons, and after viewing the various .boundary marks the company repaired to the slopes of Yes Tor and partook of lefreshments, which had been provided, the expenses of the day being defrayed by subscription. Most of the perambu- lations of commons on the moor have some particular custom pertaining to them. That which was formerly observed when the one in question took place was the throwing of apples and nuts into the boggy places, as the bound beating proceeded, for the boys who followed to scramble for. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON, 1 95 It is with the commons that we have now to do, and for the purpose of our examination of them we will make our way from the town up the steep hill-side to the Park. Soon after passing Fitz's Well, which will be noticed near the corner of an enclosure, the summit of the ridge is gained, when an attractive panorama richly rewards us for ' our climb. In front of us the sombre old moor with frowning heights crowned with granite piles fills the scene ; and when we turn to look back in the direction from which we have come, we shall see a vast extent of beautiful country, with woods and smiling fields and snug homesteads, presenting a contrast to the former wide in the extreme. Proceeding we shall have leisure to notice the moor-ward view. The hill to the left is Cosdon, and the range of fine tors which partly shuts it from our sight, is that above Belstone. The nearer ridge which we observe rising behind the farm-hou.se toward which we are making our way, is Halstock Down, and to the right three tors will be seen rising with true mountainous outline, and which are indeed the principal feature in the view. The one nearest us is Row Tor, the next West Mil Tor, and the furthest and loftiest is Yes Tor, one of the most important hills on the whole moor. On reaching the farm — which is called Pudhanger (now often Pothanger) — and passing through the yard, we shall enter by the gate upon the common at Halstock Down. Turning to the left we pass along by the wall, and in a short time shall reach a point where an old gully is situated on its further side, and which may not improbably at some time have been a rough track. This is Symons' Ditch, 196 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. which name appears to be an ancient one, for it will be noticed in the section containing Extracts from a Rental of Okehai7ipton Manor, dated 1593, that Edmund Furse paid rent for Pudhanger alias Svmons' Park. From this spot we proceed to Halstock Corner, where a gate opens upon the field known as Chapel Lands, and turning up by the wall to Kelly's Corner, shall make our way, with the West Ockment on our left, to a fording-place on that stream called Crovener Steps.* Here the scene will present many attractions to the lover of the picturesque. The hill on the opposite side of the Ockment, which comes flowing down from the wilds to the south, rises like a huge barrier, its long-stretching ridge being crowned with the Belstone tors, a sight of which we were able to obtain from the Park. On its side is a stone circle, known as the Nine Stones (consisting, really, of seventeen) which the antiquary will be eager to examine, and from the summit of the hill a fine view of old Cosdon, across the valley of the Taw, is obtainable. Close to Crovener Steps, but on the further side of a tributary stream, the moor-stone wall of Harter New-take, belonging to East Ockment Farm is seen. This is in the forest, the tributary in question here forming the boundary between it and the commons we are perambulating. The name of this stream is the Black Fen, or Black-a-vain, Brook, having its source to the southward of Yes Tor, and we shall now take it for our guide. Tracing it upward we shall not fail to admire the numerous small cascades which *This, I believe, is the correct name, though I have heard it pronounced Cullever. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTOX. 1 97 are formed as it pursues its turbulent course to join the main river. Passing Harter Ford, and the marshy spot known as Row Tor Combe, we shall soon find ourselves approaching the wilder parts of the moor. On our right as we ascend is Row Tor Ridge, stretching down from the tor of that name, and on the opposite side, some short distance ahead, is East Mil Tor, an interesting pile of rocks. We shall have noticed in our progress up the stream a partially ruined wall carried along its bank, and which is continued as far up the valley through which the brook runs as we can see. This is called the Irishman's Wall, and was built many years since by a son of Erin for the purpose of fencing off the commons from the forest. The parishioners of Okehampton and Belstone considering that this was an invasion of their rights destroyed a great portion of it, and rendered it useless for the purpose it was intended to serve. Making our way along the brink of the Black-a-vain we shall soon come in sight of an object which forms one of the boundary points of the commons, named New Bridge, which appellation, though correct enough at one time, is certainly a misnomer now. A bridge exists there, it is true, and though not what may be called an ancient one, is at the same time of such an age to be no longer entitled to the designation of 7itiv. It is of rough unhewn stone, and of the style known upon Dartmoor as a clapper bridge, the roadway being formed of slabs of granite laid from pier to pier. Its extreme length is eighteen feet, but a great deal of this is taken up by the thickness of the buttresses and the centre pier, the two water ways being only about one yard igS HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. each in width on the higher side of the bridge ; a truly accurate measurement cannot well be taken, as the buttresses are rather irregularly built. On its lower side the openings are wider. The centre pier projects about a yard up stream, and terminates in an angle, so as to present the less resistance to the water ; on the lower side this pier is four feet nine inches wide. The bridge is about six and a half feet high on the higher side, and eight feet on the lower, there being a drop in the bed of the river beneath it. It is of considerable width being no less than eighteen and a half feet, and the roadway over it is formed by gravel and soil being laid upon the covering stones ; these are about a foot in thickness, and on the lower side have a layer of smaller stones placed upon them. New Bridge is im- mediately under East Mil Tor, and a line drawn from that hill to Yes Tor would fall across the Black -a- vain Brook a short distance above it. Its direction is north-west and south-east, and at this latter end stands a boundary stone of the commons we are traversing. Hard by are rather extensive remains of tin streaming operations, and at one time I was under the impression that this bridge may have been the work of the miners, but I have since learnt that it owes its existence to the builder of the wall. If this is correct, and I am not disposed from its appearance to doubt it, the date of its erection will not take us back very far, for an old man in this quarter has told me that in his youth he knew those who had assisted in the building of this wall. The remains of the tin streaming referred to consist of heaps of stones, which the "old men" threw up in their HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 1 99 search for the metal. These miners placed the metalliferous rubble they had gathered on an inclined plane, down which was conducted a stream of \vater, and the grit being washed away left the pure ore behind ; hence the name of the process. The valleys of Dartmoor have been worked in this way from the earliest times down to a comparatively recent period, and there is scarcely a combe of any extent on the whole moor, but what shows traces of the tin seeker's operations. The once busy place above the old bridge is deserted now, and the heather and the whortleberry cover the stone heaps, but in other respects the scene remains the same as when these old workers wended their way to it from the valleys below. As we turn and look down the stream we can see the cultivated country, and in the distance the eye rests upon the high land of Exmoor ; looking up stream only wild moor is visible. Our next point will be Cirtory Glitters, to which the common bounds run from New Bridge, a spot of no little interest. These clitters, or clatters, are frequent upon the moor, and consist of granite blocks thickly strewn in wild confusion on the sides of the hills. There seems to be little doubt that in primeval times ice w^as the important factor that caused these masses of granite to slide down from the tors, to the places where we see them now. Passing out into the desolate moor at Dinger Plain, we shall notice Dinger Tor, and then proceed on our way to Sandy Ford on the West Ockment. Our progress from the other Ockment has been made in the direction of the setting sun — quite opposite to that of the old peram- 200 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. bulators of the forest boundary, who setting out from Cosdon first bent their steps southward and following the line of demarcation returned to the old hill from the west. On the line which we have followed from Crovener Steps the forest has lain on our left, all on our right hand being common belonging to Okehampton. Near where we now are is Foresland Ledge. The name may perhaps have been derived from one Furseland or Forsland, a juror for the Stannary Court of Chagford, at the Tinners' Parli;iment at Crockern Tor, held in the second year of King Henry VIII. I am of opinion that many of the Dartmoor place-names owe their origin to the tinners' presence there in days gone by. Having reached the bounds of the commons in this direction at Sandy Ford, we shall follow the West Ockment in its course, as that stream here separates them from those of Sourton, and in doing so shall be rewarded by the sight of one of the most charming and picturesque "bits" on the moor. The hills rise on each side of us to a great height, the peaks of High Wilhayes and Yes Tor, though not in sight, being on the right hand, to which, however, we shall defer our visit until having completed the circuit of the commons. The picture is almost Alpine in its features, and the rugged steeps completely shut in the narrow valley through which the stream flows over a channel partially filled with boulders of granite. Soon we shall come in view of the jutting crags of Black Tor, towering high up into the air above this lonely glen. As we look up at them from the bottom their rugged summits seem indeed to be at an immense height, and we shall scarcely realize that HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 201 their actual altitude is some six hundred feet less than that of Wilhayes and Yes Tor, from whose flanks they spring. The huge rocks, grey and hoary, are piled on one another in wild confusion, with the heather growing about their bases, and clothing the slopes around them. Below the tor an oak wood flourishes, an object most interesting here in the wild upland otherwise destitute of trees — the lofty hills shelter- ing it from the full efi'ects of the wintry blasts, and kindly preserving it, that it may delight the wanderer through this valley. This is Black Tor Copse, and though the trees are smaller, is of a somewhat similar character to the more celebrated Wistman's Wood near Two Bridges, in the centre of the moor, and also to the less known Piles Wood on the banks of the Erme. Bidding this spot with its sylvan beauties a reluctant fare- well, we shall pursue for a short distance our course down the stream, when we shall come upon a scene which will fill us with delight. A wild, rugged glen, down which the river foams, the rocks in its channel in no wise restraining its impetuosity, but causing it to leap out a hundred times and form most charming cascades. Here a sheet of glistening spray — there a dark pool with numberless curling eddies ; here the waters pent up betwixt two closely neighbouring rocks — there spreading and gliding on to leap boldly out once more in a gleaming volume, to fall amid foam with a hollow roar into the basin beneath. The banks fringed with moss and nodding ferns upon which pearly drops are hanging, and further from the river's marge, patches of heather on the slopes, amid which is many a grey and Uchen-covercd boulder, and still, above 202 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. all, the silent hills proudly raising their granite crests and shutting in this beautiful glen from the outer world. At the bottom of this gorge the stream divides, to reunite a little lower down, thus forming a small island, from which this delightful spot is well-named the Island of Rocks. Below it a little tributary comes tumbling down from the hill on the left, and it is on that part of the common on which this rises, the Okehampton men now claim rights on the Sourton side, their boundary mark there being named Iron Gates. We wander down the valley with the almost precipitous side of Homerton Hill on our right hand, still following the Ockment. On the brow of this bold eminence, far up above us, is a narrow path, just of sufficient width for the pedestrian, or for the sure-footed moorland pony, and the tourist with time at his command will do well to climb up the steep scarp to this little track in order that he may feast his eyes upon the picture presented from that point of vantage. Lower down another small tributary flows from a narrow side valley on our right, closed at its higher end, and formed by the steep slope of the hill just named on one side, and by Longstone Hill on the other. Passing the ruined buildings of Homerton Mine, and making our way along the foot of the hill, which by leaving the brink of the stream a little, and lighting on an old cart track, which runs out here, we shall the more easily do, we shall soon reach Meldon Quarry, where, on the opposite side of the river, is a deep excavation filled with water, forming a pool worthy of a visit from the passer-by. Here on the gide we are traversing another tributary conies dowrj froni HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 203 the hills to swell the waters of the Ockmcnt ; this is the Red Fen, or Red-a-vain, Brook, which has its source near Yes Tor. From INIeldon, where on the down above the left bank of the river, during the Civil Wars the King's party received a severe check at the hands of the Parliamentarians in a fight by night, the park wall extends across the commons to Hal- stock, the extreme eastern end of it. As already stated this wall forms the northern boundary of the commons, and by following it we should be led across Black Down, and pass- ing Anthony Stile and Pudhanger, should reach Symons' Ditch where we set out.* But in order that we may visit some points of more than ordinary interest, we shall, after tarrying to observe the extremely light and graceful Meldon Viaduct, constructed entirely of iron, and at an immense height spanning the valley immediately where the Ockment leaves the moor, turn from that river and trace the Red-a-vain upwards to the hills. The two loftiest elevations in the South of England lie within the bounds of the Okehampton Commons, namely High Wilhayes — or High Willes, as the moormen call it — and Yes Tor, the former attaining an altitude of 2039 feet, and the latter one of loi-j.] From the point where we stand we shall have to ascend some 1280 feet in order to reach the summit of Yes Tor, which is exactly a mile-and-a-half distant in a straight lifie ; but as we are not gifted with the power of making such *For some distance to the westward of the corner of Pudhanger Fami the boundary of the common is marked by a row of stone posts, the portion of land between them and the park wall having been given up to the lord of the manor, in 1866. tThis is a surface level. Tlic Bench Mark on tlie summit of Yes Tor, according to the recent Ordnance Survey, is 2929.*^ feet, 204 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. direct progress as the proverbial crow, it is needless to say our upward path will be much longer than this. By way of the valley, which we but lately passed, between Longstone and Homerton Hills, a good ascent from this part may be made, but whether we choose that or follow the Red-a-vain for some distance, we shall on reaching the higher ground above the valley come in sight of the majestic granite crown of the tor, and though the way be toilsome, yet is there abundance to reward the tourist, for every step he takes will enlarge the scope of the prospect. And on reaching the summit what a view, indeed, greets the beholder! The whole of the northern portion of the county of Devon lies mapped out at his feet, with the silver sea beyond. Brown Willy and the Cornish range rise boldly against the distant western sky, and Exmoor, with the hills extending into Somersetshire, bound the prospect to the north-east. Turning moorward a great expanse of wild desolation meets the eye, with many a rocky pile rising, grim and forbidding, on the swelling brown ridges. High Wilhayes somewhat blocks the view in this direction, and the prospect from that hill over the cultivated country is in- terfered with by Yes Tor, so it will be well that the tourist should visit both eminences. As they are not far apart, and on the same elevated ridge of land, to make our way from the tor to Wilhayes will therefore be a work of no difficulty. After having enjoyed the contemplation of the varied picture presented from these lofty heights, the visitor may descend the hill towards the north east, to the upper waters of the Red-a-vain Brook, where he will notice a stream work. Black-a-vain Brook, which we traced upward on setting out HISTORY OF OKEIIAMPTOX. 205 from Crovener Steps, is now on our right though undiscern- able ; New Bridge, also, is not far distant, its position being marked by East Mil Tor, which is in full view on the oilier side of the hollow down which the stream runs. We shall, however, not again approach that, but turn northward to West INIil Tor, and on crossing the Red-a-vain shall find the ground to be rather boggy, but with a little care will be able to make our way over it easily enough, and soon reach the tor, which being a fine pile, will be found of sufiicicnt interest to repay a visit. Between this tor and Row Tor, which is not very far from it, another stream takes its rise. This is IMoor Brook, which has a north-easterly course, flowing, after leaving the com- mons, through a portion of the park, by Pudhanger and Halstock, and falling into the East Ockment at Belstone Cleave close to Ashbury Tor. Proceeding down the side of Mil Tor we shall strike upon an old green track, which, traceable here and there, runs out into the forest. Following this down the hill, with Moor Brook on our right, and on our left that part of the commons known as Black Down, we shall soon reach Anthony Stile — a gate in the park wall — passing through which we shall leave the commoners' wastes behind us. The ground near this portion of the park is occupied during the summer months (generally June, July, and a part of August) by batteries of artillery encamped here for firing practice, and long rows of shedding, erected as shelter for the horses, will be observed on the slope of the hill. A good deal of the firing takes place on Halstock Down, a fine range being afl'orded there, up the Biack-a-vain hollow. 2o6 HlSTORV OlF OKEHAMPTON. which is completely commanded. Wooden "dummies" exhibiting the rough outline of a man are placed in rows in order to represent a line of soldiers — many of them some distance out on the forest — and at these the guns are aimed. All round New Bridge, under East Mil Tor, numbers of them may be seen, and during the continuance of the artillery practice, that part of the moor must be given a wide berth. The moor men in the neighbourhood are out early in the morning driving the cattle from the dangerous ground, for which they receive pay from the military authorities, and notice boards placed at the entrances to the commons warn visitors against going upon the moor near the ranges during the firing. A red flag, as a danger signal, is hoisted on Yes Tor, and another on Watchet Hill near Belstone, one hour before the practice commences, and is kept flying until its close. This gunnery practice, of course, greatly interferes with the rights of pasturage which the commoners possess, and is certainly detrimental to the pleasure of the tourist, who during some of the best months of the year finds himself warned off" a district which should be free and open for all to roam over without danger. One Sunday in the month of December, 1880, a lament- able accident happened to a man named Richard Hodge, a brother of the farmer at Pudhanger. He had set out for the moor, it was thought, to look for unexploded shells, and not having returned by the following day, search was made for him, and his dead body was found in a frightfully mutilated condition. About two hundred yards distant a recently exploded shell was found, together with his hat and HISTORY Of OKfillAMPTON. ioy a mutilated finger; another finger was picked up at a distance of one hundred yards from the projectile. Not far from the body was a hammer, aiul it is supposed that he had endeavoured to open the shell with it and caused it to explode. On the northern slope of this portion of the park, extend- ing from Meldon to near the station of the London and South Western Railway, which line runs across it, numerous ancient hollies and hawthorns are growing, the remains of the coverts which in old times sheltered the deer which the barons delighted to hunt. The wall which enclosed the park from the commons prevented these from straying on the open moor, so that there could never be lack of sport in this fine hunting ground. On Dartmoor itself, however, deer were formerly plentiful, mention being not infrequently made of them in old records. In the Pipe Rolls is an account of some prepara- tions which were made for the entertainment of Prince Charles, the son of James I., on his homeward voyage from Spain in 1623, whither he had gone with the Duke of Buckingham in order to see the princess to whom that noble was anxious he should be betrothed. One Nicholas Payne was appointed " to make provycon of fresh meate, with many other provycons incidente thereunto, for the dyett of the prynce his Hignes, the Spanishe ambassador, and sondry lordes and others at sea, aboarde eighte of the kinge's majesties owne shippes and two pinnaces, sente thether for his Hignes' transportacon from Spayne," and among other numerous good things provided were " Three stagges and fower buckes from the foreste of Dartmorc." In 208 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. some lines on Widecombe-in-the-Moor, and the great thunder-storm there in 1638, attributed to the Rev. George Lyde, who was vicar of the parish at that time, occurs the following : — " How well that place is stored with Deers that brouze, Both male and female, on the tender boughs." But the old hunting ground of Okehampton was dis- parked previous to this time, for we learn that such took place in the 30th of King Henry VIII. On the brow of the hill that descends to the West Ock- ment, opposite the ruins of Okehampton Castle, which may be observed embosomed in trees on the further side of the stream, are a few fragments of tooled masonry lying on the ground, and a tradition states that a chapel once stood there. From this spot a fine view of the valley is presented and the sight of the weather-beaten walls of the castle keep, will bring to our mind the feudal times when the all-power- ful barons dwelt in the ancient stronghold. It is said that a subterraneous passage once extended from the Castle to Halstock, but it does not seem probable that this traditionary report has any foundation in fact. Proceeding eastward from the artillery ground we shall once more reach Fitz's Well, close to which will be observed the upper portion of the ancient cross, though wdth regret it will be seen that it lies neglected upon the ground. It would be well if this were to be again erected by the spring, or at all events, built into the hedge close by, in order to preserve it from possible destruction. An old story is told of a man who with his wife was once journeying from Halstock to Okehampton. and having HISTORY OF OKI.HA.MIMOX. 20Cf by some means lost their way, wandered about in the vain endeavour to find it. The good dame asserted that it was useless to contend against the spell which it was evident they were under the influence of, and that the only chance of their being freed from it was the discovery of water. Lighting at length upon the well on the brow of the hill, this was proved to be true, for the enchantment was at once dissolved and their way lay clear before them. I'he story goes that out of gratitude for their deliverance the man erected the cross which is now seen on the spot. It has also been told me in the neighbourhood that some " rich gentleman " called Spicer (a corruption evidently of Fitz, w^hich name is locally pronounced Fice or Fize) set up the cross. However that may be we find that a John Fitz held the manor of Meldon, at the west end of the park, in 1593, and that the family was connected in some way with the well, (and probably with the cross, too,) we may readily believe. There is another Fitz's Well on Dartmoor, not very far from Princetown, on the brink of the Blackabrook, of which a similar story to that of the two travellers is related, though in this case they are plainly stated to have been John Fitz and his lady. The initials I.F. with the date 1568 are carved upon the granite cover-stone of this well. Tales of witchery and enchantment were formerly numer- ous on Dartmoor, where many ancient superstitions lingered after they were dying out in the other parts of tlie county. The tradition of Binjie Gear — once Okchampton's worthy mayor — and his task of emptying the waters of Cranmere Pool is still related in the neighbourhood, though it is N 210 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. needless to say the march of intellect has caused these old- time tales to be regarded in a different light by the majority of the country people from that in which they were looked upon formerly. Only as recently as 1885, however, an old woman died who was known as the Witch of Okehampton. She perished from cold and exposure in a wretched hovel in the town. A gate will be observed at a short distance from Fitz's Well, through which we shall pass, and going across East Hill, shall shortly reach the camp ; the opinion of Mr. Fothergill that it was originally of British construction, having had additions made to it by the Danes, being probably correct. We shall not omit while here to extend our walk to Ash bury Tor, from the summit of which a most charming view is presented. Far down below is Belstone Cleave, and between us and St. Michael's Chapel is a deep and narrow valley, with thickly wooded sides, known as Halstock Cleave, through which Moor Brook flows to join the Ockment. On the further side of the latter stream the ground rises steeply from its brink, and on the crest of the hill immediately opposite the tor on which we stand is a ridge of rocks sometimes called Cleave Tor, the down stretching from this up the valley to the range above Belstone. We shall tarry long to admire the beauties of this scene, and the noble panorama of richly wooded hill and dale which stretches northward as far as the eye can reach, and though other attractions await us, shall re- luctantly tear ourselves away from it. Halstock Chapel, or rather the site on which it once stood, is in full view, across Moor Brook but did we attempt to HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 211 make our way direct the path would be toilsome for we should have to scramble through the cleave, so we shall retrace our steps some short distance beyond the ancient camp, and then turn to the left and descend the gentle slope of the down to a road leading to Halstock Farm. There is a ford on the Moor Brook, and close to it a clapper bridge, formed of a single stone, eleven feet in length. This will afford us means of crossing and we shall pass up the road to the farm, and making our way through the yard, shall soon enter the field called Chapel Lands, in which the scanty vestiges of the ancient sanctuary are situated. At the entrance to the field, and also near the farm-yard, are the ruined foundations, much overgrown, of enclosures and dwellings — the sole remains of the village of Halstock, which, it is said, once existed here. The Chapel of St. Michael formerly stood at what is now the upper corner of the field, but very faint indeed arc the traces the visitor to the site is able to distinguish. Indeed so scanty are the ruins of the chapel, that the traveller might pass by and be totally unaware that a building was once reared there. A few grass-grown banks scarcely raised above the level of the field, are all that is to be seen, and the destruction of this retired house of prayer is, unfor- tunately, only too complete. One granite stone, and one only, lies at the eastern end, but no vestiges of masonry are to be discovered. The two trees which are spoken of as standing near by are simply storm-stricken thorn bushes, and they grow from a bank of turf which runs across the field at the eastern end of the chapel. Leaving the spot with many regrets that so little has been V 212 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. spared to us of this ancient edifice, we shall make for a gate in the lower corner of the field, from which a rugged path will conduct us down the side of the hill through Halstock Woods to the crossing-place on the East Ockment called Chapel Ford. Here the scene will again cause us to linger, and afford an additional delight to the many that have charmed us in our journeying around the commons and the park, but the better to observe its beauties we shall cross the river by the stepping stones, and reaching the open moor pause to look around. The hill-side down which we have come is clothed with thick wood, the masses of foliage contrasting charmingly with the furze-covered slope at the foot of which we stand. Up the valley, the Belstone tors that we have seen so many times during our ramble, close in the view, while in the opposite direction, the barrier of rocks already referred to as being known sometimes as Cleave Tor, rises boldly from the brow of the hill as if to guard the entrance to the Uplands. We wander down the valley, and soon the stream be- comes more rapid in its course, falling in numerous cascades over the rocks, which seem as though attempting to bar its progress. Belstone Cleave lies before us, and a side valley, its slopes covered with trees, opens on our left hand, and we see the Moor Brook hastening down it to augment the Ockment's waters. It is the hollow known as the Cleave of Halstock, which we beheld from Ashbury Tor lying between us and the hill of the old chapel, and looking up we see the rocks of the former rising above the trees that reach far up the steep. We pass between it and the rugged ridge above our right, and scramble down the Cleave, lost HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 213 in admiration at the beauties which nature has lavished with so bountiful a hand upon this charming spot. And still down by the laughing river we pursue our way, and where the valley bends shall notice — affording a somewhat inharmonious contrast to the attractions around us — the Fatherford viaduct (a name often locally pronounced Fallaford), near which we will cross the stream, and finding for ourselves a path by the side of the hill, shall soon come in sight of the town from which we set forth, lying snugly in the valley. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF OKEHAMPTON, BY W. H. K. WRIGHT. *»^ KEHAMPTON in this year of grace eighteen hundred and eighty-nine, differs in many re- spects from the quaint, historic old town, the annals of which have been told in the preceding pages. Charles Kingsley, in his inimitable epic "Westward Ho!" speaks of it as "'the ugly, dirty, and stupid town of Okehampton with which fallen man (by some strange perversity) has chosen to defile one of the loveliest sites in the pleasant land of Devon." Whatever may have been its appearance when these lines were written, its general con- dition now certainly merits a totally different description. Its streets have been recently paved at a cost of about ;^i,6oo ; a most perfect system of drainage was carried out two or three years ago at a cost of ;^2,300, it is well supplied with pure water from a reservoir fed by springs on the Oke- hampton Park estate, and its hotels and places of business are now lighted by electricity, although a gas company was formed in 1858, with a capital of ;^i,2oo, and is still flourishing. All these features prove that the stigma attach- ing to the town in Kingsley's time has been removed, and the place is as pleasant, clean, and enlightened as any little HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 215 market town of its size and importance in the British isles. Many handsome villas have been erected in and around the town by the enterprise of some of the local builders, and the principal shops in the main street would be no dis- grace to many larger towns. So much for the general appearance of Okehampton. During the last few years the railway has penetrated to this moorland district, and Okehampton is the chief station between Exeter and Plymouth on the main line of the London and South Western Railway; the station was opened in 1872. It is also the Junction for the Holsworthy branch, and via Holsworthy to Launceston line opened in 1888. The distances in various directions are as follows: — London, 197^ miles; Plymouth, 30 miles; Exeter, 25 miles; Tavistock, 16 miles; Launceston, i()h miles; Holsworthy, 22 miles. About thirty-six trains pass through this station every day, and the goods traffic is also very considerable. The following table of distances may be useful to tourists and others visiting Okehampton. NAMES. DISTANCE. Ashbury 7 Beaworthy 10 Belstone 3 Bondleigh 8 Bratton Clovelly 10 Bridestowe 7 Brightley 2 Broadwoodkelly 8 Chagford 10 Drewsteignton 10 Exbourne 5 Germansweek 10 Gidleigh 8 Halherleigh 7 Highampton 11 Honey Oliurch 6 Iddesleigh 10 Names distance. Inwardleigh 4 Jacohstowe 5 Meeth 11 Monk Okehampton 8 Meldon 3 North Lew 8 North Tawton 7 Sampford Courtenay 5 Sticklepath 4 South Tawton 5 Soutli Zeal 5 Sourton 5 Sandy Park lO Spreyton 8 .Summerstown lO Throwleigh 7 2l6 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. In the course of a few months the London and South Western Railway will open their independent line through Tavistock to Devonport and Plymouth, the present system of running powers only over the G.W.R. from Lydford being most inconvenient. The station is an exceedingly elevated one, being on the border of the moor, about nine hundred feet above the sea-level, but yet more than one thousand feet below Yes Tor, the highest point in its immediate vicinity. The view from the station is magnificent, the town, the castle, the church and other prominent features having for a back- ground a beautiful stretch of cultivated and undulating country as far as the coast near Bideford Bay and Bude Haven. The town possesses several well-appointed and com- fortable hotels, the most important being the White Hart, on the Parade. This hotel has all the accessories of a first-class house, is possessed of excellent stabling accom- modation, and does a large posting and commercial business. Other inns which might be mentioned are the Plume of Feathers, Red Lion, Fountain, George, King's Arms, Temperance Hotel, &c. The market accommodation is good, although inadequate to the growing requirements of the town. It was recently extended at a cost of ;^i,ooo. The tolls form one of the chief items of the corporate receipts, being let from £330. Saturday is the market day, and there is a great cattle market held on the first Saturday in each month, besides a cattle fair held in March every year. The town may be classed as a market town, but it has several factories, two mills and other works employing a number of hands, HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 217 prominent amongst these being that of Mr. Henry Geen, contractor and cabinet-maker. His brother, Mr. Charles Geen is the chief builder in Okehampton, and many of the latest improvements in the town and district are due to his exertions. The introduction of the electric light, the erection of villa residences, the re-paving of the streets, the development of quarrying and other works may be chiefly credited to these energetic townsmen. The estimation in which Mr. Charles Geen is held may be gathered from the fact that he has been twice Mayor since the New Charter has been granted. Mr, Pearce and Mr. Seth Harry have succeeded him, both progressive men, and having the best interests of the town at heart. Okehampton possesses some fine business premises, notably those of Mr. Harry, and Mr. Westcott, and some new houses recently erected by Messrs. Underbill and Harris. Some of the old houses are very picturesque, and that known as Gayer's house in the main street has some excellent carved paneling. The parish church of All Saints is situated on a com- manding eminence about half a mile west of the town, but as it will be found fully described in the earlier portion of this work a few details in this general account must suffice. Originally built in 1261, it was rebuilt in the fifteenth century, was destroyed by fire (with the exception of the tower) in 1842 ; restored under the direction of Mr, Hayward, architect of Exeter, and re-opened in 1844. It is now an edifice of stone, in the Perpendicular style, con- sisting of chance], witli vestry on tlic north side, nave of five bays, aisles, north and south porches, and an embattled 2l8 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. western tower, with crocketed pinnacles. The tower con- tains six bells, which were cast in the churchyard in 1750. The font is a good specimen of modern work, being octagonal in form and paneled ; the reredos is of Perpen- dicular work. The church contains several fine stained glass windows, all modern, three of which are in memory of Archdeacon Downall, who was vicar of this church up to the time of his death in 1872, and was very much beloved. The church will seat six hundred persons ; the present vicar is the Rev. Charles William Hunt HoUey, M.A., of Oriel College, Oxford; the living is valued at ^500, tithe- rent charge ^^281, with 230 acres of glebe and residence, and is in the gift of the father of the present vicar, James Hunt HoUey, Esq., late of Oaklands. Attention must also be drawn to the ancient episcopal chapel of St. James, which is a prominent object in the centre of the town. It formerly belonged to the Cor- poration, but is now, under the new scheme, vested in the hands of the Charity Trustees. This chapel consists of nave, and an ancient tower, containing a clock and two bells. The style of architecture of the tower is Early Perpendicular, the east window is Decorated. The nave was rebuilt in 1862 and has some plain windows of the Early English period. Other places of worship are — the Congregational Chapel, in North Street, built in 1800, and with sitting accommoda- tion for five hundred persons ; the Bible Christian Chapel, in East Street, erected in 1868, with seats for two hundred and fifty ; the Wesleyan Chapel, in West Street, erected in 18^1, which has also two hundred and fifty sittings. There HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 219 is also a new Baptist Chapel in the main street, which will accommodate two hundred. Of modern scholastic establishments, we may mention, a school for boys at Moorside, and for young ladies at Park Villas. There are two experienced and talented medical gentle- men in the town. The Town Hall is one of the most noticeable buildings in Okehampton and is situated in Fore Street, almost opposite the road leading from the station.* It is a plain building, ancient withal. On the ground floor are rooms used as a library and news-room in connection with the Literary Institution of the town, and above is a hall capable of holding three hundred persons, in which town-meetings are held, and justice is administered. Here are kept the insignia of this ancient corporation, the two maces and borough seals, described on a previous page with many ancient and valuable documents. The town possesses a loving-cup of massive silver, formerly used at Corporation banquets. It bears the hall-marks of 1672-3, the initials T.K. and a shield charged with three crescents. The mayoral costume is a scarlet robe trimmed with fur. It is in con- templation to build a new Guildhall to signalize the additional importance of the borough under its new charter. As will be found from the preceding work, the town of ♦This building formerly belonged to and was at one time lived in by Mr. Albany Savile, who built the noble mansion house of Oaklands (now the residence ot Mr. Wyndham H. flolley;, and whose family has always been associated with every charitable undertaking in the Borough. This building has been condemned by a surveyor as unsafe for meetings, but in spite of the warning, Justices meetings and County Courts are held there. 2 20 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. Okehampton was incorporated by charters in the reigns of James I. (1623) and Charles II. (1684) respectively. Under these charters the corporation was a " close " one, that is to say, they themselves elected any new members or any vacancy occurring, a system not supportable by theory, but which practically worked extremely well. Mr. Simon Peter Brendon Newcombe was the last Mayor, Edward Bouchier Savile and John Dunning Prickman being the last Recorder and Deputy-Recorder respectively. It had formerly a Mayor, Recorder, Deputy-Recorder, forming the magistrates of the Borough, eight principal and eight assistant burgesses, ranking with Aldermen and Councillors respectively, the Recorder and Deputy-Recorder being life appointments. Under the Municipal Act of 1882, the Corporation became extinct, and application being made for a new charter, it was granted in 1886, the governing body now consisting of Mayor, four Aldermen and twelve Councillors. The new Charter is as follows : — Copy of the Charter of Incorporation of the Borough of Okehampton, 1885. VICTORIA, by the Grace of God, of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, Queen, Defender of the Faith ; to all to whom these presents shall come, greeting. XlXUbetCaS by the Municipal Corporations Act, 1882, it was enacted that if on the Petition to Us of the Inhabitant Householders of any Town or Towns or District in England, or of any of those Inhabitants, praying for the grant of a Charter of Incorporation, We, by the advice of Our Privy Council, should think fit by charter to create such town. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 22 1 towns or district, or any part thereof specified in the charter with or without any adjoining place a .Municipal Borough and to incorporate the inhabitants thereof, it should be lawful for Us by the charter to extend to that ^Municipal Borough and the Inhabitants thereof so incorporated the provisions of the IMunicipal Corporations Acts. And it was further enacted that ever)' Petition for a Charter under the said Act should be referred to a Com- mittee of the Lords of our Privy Council (in the said Act called the Committee of Council) and that one month at least before the Petition should be taken into consideration by the Committee of Council, notice thereof, and of the time when it would be so taken into consideration should be published in the London Gazette and otherwise in such manner as the Committee should direct for the purpose of making it known to all persons interested. And it was further enacted that where We by a Charter should extend the Municipal Corporations Acts to a Municipal Borough it should be lawful for Us by the Charter to do all or any of the following things : (a) To fix the number of Councillors and to fix the number and boundaries of the Wards (if any), and to assign the number of Councillors to each Ward ; and (h) To fix the years, days, and times for the retirement of the first Aldermen and Councillors ; and (c) To fix such days, times, and places, and nominate such persons to perform such duties and make such other temporary modifications of the Muni- cipal Corporations Acts as might appear to Us to Ill HlSTOKY OF OKEHAMPTON. be necessary or proper for making those Acts applicable in the case of the first constitution of a Municipal Borough. And that the years, times, and places fixed by the Charter, and the persons nominated therein to perform any duties, should as regarded the Borough named in the Charter be respectively substituted in the Municipal Corporations Acts for the years, days, times, places, officers, and persons therein mentioned, and the persons so nominated should have the like powers and be subject to the like obligations and penalties as the officers and persons mentioned in those Acts for whom they would be respectively substituted : And that subject to the provisions of the Charter author- ised thereby, the Municipal Corporations Acts should on the Charter coming into effect apply to the Municipal Borough to which they should be extended by the Charter ; and where the first Mayor, Aldermen, and Councillors or any of them, should be named in the Charter should apply as if they were elected under the Municipal Corporation Acts, and where they should not be so named should apply to their first election : And whereas certain inhabitant householders of the Local Government District of Okehampton did in the month of December, 1883, petition Us for the grant of a charter of incorporation : And whereas such petition was referred to a Committee of our Privy Council, and one month at least before the same was taken into consideration by the said Committee, notice thereof and of the time when the same was to be taken into consideration was duly published in the London Gazette HISTORY Of OKfeMAMWOK. 22^ and otherwise as directed by the Committee : And whereas Our Privy Council have recommended Us to grant this charter of incorporation ; Me tberefOre, as well by virtue of Our Royal Preroga- tive as in pursuance of and in accordance with the Municipal Corporations Acts, 1882, or any other Act or Acts and of all other powers and authorities enabling Us in this behalf, by and with the advice of Our Privy Council, do hereby grant order and declare as follows : (i.) The Local Government District of Okehampton within the limits set forth in the First Schedule to these presents is hereby created a Municipal Borough by the name of the " Borough of Okehampton." (2.) The inhabitants of the Borough of Okehampton within the limits set forth in the First Schedule to these presents, and their successors, shall be, and are hereby declared to be one body politic and corporate by the name of the INIayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses of the Borough of Okehampton, with perpetual succession and a Common Seal, and may assume armorial bearings (which shall be duly enrolled in the Heralds' College), and may take and hold any lands, tenements and heredita- ments which may be vested in them by any Scheme made under Part XL of the Municipal Corporations Act, 1882, and such other lands, tenements and hereditaments as well without as within the Borough as may be necessary for the site of the buildings and premises required for the official purposes of the Corporation and other the pur- poses of the Municipal Corporations Acts, provided that such other lands do not exceed in value the amount of ;^5oo by the year. 2 24- HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. (3.) The Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses of the said Borough shall have the powers, authorities, immunities, and priveleges usually vested by law in the mayor, alder- men, and burgesses of a municipal borough, and the provisions of the Municipal Corporations Acts shall extend to the said Borough, and the Inhabitants there- of incorporated by this charter : (4.) The number of councillors of the borough shall be twelve. (5.) For the purpose of making the Municipal Corporations Act, 1882, applicable in the case of the first constitution of the Borough, We do hereby, so far only as regards the first burgess list, first burgess roll, and first election of Councillors, Mayor, Aldermen, Auditors, Assessors, Town Clerk, and Treasurer, fix and order as follows : (a) The Town Hall in the Town of Okehampton shall be the place at which any list, notice, or document required to be affixed, on or near the outer door of the Town Hall is to be affixed ; and (b.) Both in relation to the matters aforesaid, and also in relation to any such election as aforesaid which it may be necessary to hold before a valid election can be held under the Municipal Corporations Act, 1882, WILLIAM BURD, of Okehampton, or in case of his death, inability, refusal, or default, WILLIAM YEO, of Okehampton, shall perform the duties of the Town Clerk and WILLIAM WOOD, of Okehampton, or in case of his death, inability, refusal, or default, WILLIAM BURD PEARSE, of Okehampton, shall perform the duties of the Mayor and the Assessors HISTORY OP OKKHAMnOX. 225 for revising the burgess list, and the separate list of persons qualified to be councillors ; and LIEUTENANT COLONEL ROBERT THOMAS WHITE THOM- SON, of Jacobstowe, in the County of Devon, or in case of his death, inability, refusal, or default, WILLIAM WELDON SYMINGTON, of Belstone in the same County, shall perform the duties of the mayor and aldermen respectively as returning officer, and of the mayor as summoner of the first meeting of the Council, and of the mayor or chairman of the meeting for the election of the iNIayor, Aldermen, Town Clerk, and Treasurer, And the said persons shall be substituted in tlic Muni- cipal Corporations Act, 1882, for the said town clerk, mayor, assessors, aldermen, and chairman respectively, so far as relates to the matters aforesaid ; and (c.) The first election of Councillors shall take place on the second day of November, 1885, and the first meeting of the Council of the Borough shall be held on the ninth day of November, 1885. (6.) The years and days specified in the Second Schedule to these presents shall be the years and days for the retire- ment of the first Aldermen and Councillors, who shall retire in the manner and at the times therein designated. (7.) Subject to these presents and the provisions and directions in the second schedule thereto the provisions of the Municipal Corporations Act, 1882, shall apply to the determination of the qualifications of the first Bur- gesses the making out signing delivering inspection completion publication commencement and continuance O 2 26 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. of the First Burgess Lists and Burgess Rolls the claims objections and determinations with regard to the first Burgess Lists or Rolls, the holding adjournments and decisions of the first Revision Courts the nominations elections and continuance in office of the first Mayor Aldermen Councillors Auditors and Assessors, the appointment and continuance in office of the first Town Clerk and Treasurer, the first meeting and quarterly meeting of the Town Council, and all matters and things touching and concerning the above, and the dates and times in the said Act mentioned shall be the dates and times on at during within or for which the matters aforesaid and the various acts and things in relation thereto shall take place be done be estimated or be calculated. FIRST SCHEDULE. Lunits of Borough. A radius of half-a-mile from the Cross or from the place where the. Cross was formerly erected and stood in the centre of the Town of Okehampton. If any Councillors in any ward or any Aldermen have obtained an equal number of votes, or have been elected without a poll, so that it cannot be determined which of them has the smallest number of votes, the Council of the Borough shall, at the first or second quarterly meeting and not later, by a majority of votes, or in case of an equality of votes by the casting vote of the Chairman, determine who are to go out of office at the times above specified re- spectively. HIsrOKV OF OKEHAMl'TON. SECOND SCHEDULE. 227 Persons to Retire. Date of Rhitrp.mkm. The one- third of the Councillors who are elected by the smallest number of votes shall go out of office on Xovcmher 1st. 1886. The one -third of the Councillors who are elected by the next smallest number of votes shall go out of office on November ist. 188;. The remaining one-third of the Councillors shall go out of office on November ist. 1888. The one-half of the Aldermen who first go out of office shall be those who are elected by the smallest number of votes and shall go out of office on . . November 9th. 1888. The remaining one-half of the Aldermen shall go out of office on . . November 9th. 1891. 3\\ MitneSS WberCOt, We have caused these Our Letters to be made Patent. Witness Ourself at Westminster, the Twentieth day of July, in the Forty-ninth year of Our Reign. 530 Martant unlict t^e (Queeh's ^i^n fflanual. © MU/R MACKENZIE. The main feature of which it may be pointed out was to give the public a voice in the election of the Corporation and to make the town and its governing constitution subject to the Municipal Corporation Acts. It may perhaps specially be pointed out that every ratepayer having paid his rates and lived a sufficient time in the Borough and otherwise qualified has the Francliise or right of voting for members of the Town Council. 228 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. The first office bearers under the new Charter were : — Chas. Geen, Seth Harry, Samuel Weeks, WilHam Bray, T. C. Westcott, James Coombe, Richard Passmore, W. B. Pearse, John Grendon, Thomas Harris, W. H. Holley, G. Underbill, S. P. B. Newcombe, William Lucy, William Yeo, Isaac Yeo. The names of the present Corporation are as follows : — Aldermen, 1888-9. — Seth Harry, Mayor; Chas. Geen, Wm. Burd Pearse, T. C. Westcott. Councillors. — Wm. Bray, James Coombe, Bryan Dufty, Alfred Harris, W. H. Holley, R. Passmore, W. H. I. Pryer, Edwin Smale, Samuel Weeks, Thos. Wood, Wm. Yeo, G. Underbill. In 1873 the various charities at Okehampton were placed upon a new basis, being vested in Trustees appointed in accordance with powers granted by the Charity Com- missioners. The following is the " Order and Scheme of the Okehampton United Charities," as gathered from a pamphlet printed and published by E. Townshend, Fore Street, Okehampton (1884.) It will be noted there is a property qualification for electors of the Charity Trustees. Order &' Scheme of the Okehampton Devon, United Charities. Charity Commission. — In the matter of the following Charities at Okehampton, in the County of Devon, viz : — Firstly, The Borough Lands, The Ancient Town Lands, One INIoiety of the Common Lands, The Aims-Houses of Richard Brock, with the subsidiary endowment of Grace Brock and John Bickell's Gift ; Secondly, The Parish or HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 229 Church Lands and the remaining Moiety of the Common Lands ; And Thirdly, The Barton Barn Estate. The Board of Charity Commissioners for England and Wales having considered an application in writing for the purposes of the following Order, made to them on the twentieth day of March, One thousand eight hundred and seventy one, in the matter of the firstly above mentioned Charities under the Corporate Seal of The Corporation of the Borough of Okehampton as the Trustees or administra- tors thereof, and also another application in writing made to them on the said twentieth day of March, One thousand eight hundred and seventy one, in the matter of the secondly above mentioned Charities under the like Corporate Seal of the said Corporation, and by The Venerable Archdeacon Downall (since deceased), Vicar of the said Parish of Okehampton, and by J. G. Maxwell and Charles Bond, Churchwardens of the same Parish, as the Trustees or administrators thereof. And also a further application in writing made to them on the eighteenth day of March, One thousand eight hundred and seventy one, in the matter of the thirdly above mentioned Charities by James Hunt Holley, Esquire, the said J. G. Maxwell, Esquire, Robert Drew, John Rowe Crotch, John Marsh Burd, Isaac Yeo, Charles Bond, and Henry Drew, as the Trustees or adminis- trators thereof. And it appearing to the said Board that the endowments of the said Charities respectively consist of the particulars mentioned in the Schedules to the Scheme hereby established, and that the gross annual income of the said Charity called The Barton Barn Estate amounts to Fifty Pounds and upwards, and of the said several remaining 230 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON, Charities does not in the case of any of them amount to Fifty Pounds, and that it is for the advanta^je of the said several Charities that a new Scheme should be established for the future management and regulation of the said Charities in manner hereinafter mentioned, And upon public notice of the intention of the said Board to make the Order hereinafter contained having been given by the affixing of the same according to the direction of the said Board to the principal outer door of the Town Hall of Okehampton on the seventh day of January, One thousand eight hundred and seventy three, being more than one calendar month previously to the date hereof, And upon considering all suggestions and objections made to them with reference to the proposed Order, 2)0 bcrcb^ ©rDCr, that the Scheme set out in the Schedule hereto be approved and established as the Scheme for the future regulation of the said Charity. CHURCH AND PARISH LANDS. SCHEDULE I. A. R. P. Travin's or Trewin's House . . . . 005 Jordan's, otherwise Painter's Court . . 020 Stable in East Street and Major's Barn \ ^ [020 and Mead . . . . ) Vokins' House and Garden Broom Closes Parish Meadow CHIEF RENT. From the Old Town Hall 4 I 37 5 2 20 £, s. D. 8 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 231 COI\I]\ION LANDS. SCHEDULE II. A. R. p. Paradise Land I 15 Domehay Do. 26 Shebbear's . . Kempley's, &c. :1 House and Land 7 27 New Inn, &c. House & Garden 33 Long Kempley Land Weekes Do. Do. 3 2 3+ Penty Ham Garden, Yard, Szc. . :l Land, &c. I 2 8 Star Inn, &c. House, &c. . . 2 39 Great Kempley Land 3 2 23 Higher Do. Land (3 fields) 12 2 9 Cooper's Do. Land 12 I 4 Do. Do. 6 20 Waste Do. 3 6 Ley in Thornbury House and Land 49 3 37 Stratton, Cornwall (Wintsworth) Five Cottages . . 5 '3 CHIEF RENT fi om Tavistock . . ^0 6 8 BORC )UGH LANDS. S( :hedule hi. j\ R. p^ Seymour's • House & Shop 2 Lang's in West Midro\ V Do. I Tapper's • House 2 232 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. Davy's House near the \ Prison . . ) House and Shop o 4 Turpin's . . . . i Poet's .. .. i Land . . o 2 31 Pike's Mead and Barn | on Shob Hill . . i House and Land I o 9 Hungerland on Shob Hill Land 2 9 Fogy Park on Shob Hill Do. I 2 39 Broadmoor's Do. 1 1 2 13 Hendy's House, &c. . . House, &c. . . o O 36 Dun's Coombe's, &c. . . Houses & Land I O 15 Nix Mead Land o I 19 Doidge's Meadow Do. 5 3 13 Battishall's House House & Garden 18 Blatchford's in East Street House o I Earl's Malt House, Do. Do. o 24 Lang's House & Garden do. Do. o 1 1 Pigs' Ground Back Kitchen. . Garden before Taylor's, | now Darley House. . ) Garden 2 Stable & Stye, formerly a * Now Coach House ! > Linhay, adjoining . . ) and Dung Place Bowling Green Land 2 22 Ware Rooms in Borough \ Pound . . ) Houses 2 Plot behind Pigs' Ground House Outhouse by West Well Do. Garden near East Bridge Do. Do. South side Do. . . Do. — HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. ^53 Garden near West Bridge House Do. Do. . . Do. Cellar Door on Parade Do. Waste in Fair Place . . Do. Wall ofHousein North Lane Do. Carpenter's Shop by East River Plot before Hammet's Porch in East Street . . Garden before Redstone's House in Fair Place . . Gibby Lands Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. '3 o ANCIENT TOWN LANDS. SCHEDULE IV. A. K. P. Mount Ribbon • • House o O I Janes • , Do. o O I Pulser's • • House & Garden o o i8 Part of House in Mid Row West \ House • Martin's • • Do. o o 3 George Inn • • House, Yard & Ham o 24 Moyse's Shob Hill Meadow Land 5 I 28 Gaskin's Meadow Meadow 2 3 Ji Darky Lane Do. 5 20 Rack Park Land 3 3 38 Batts Meadow 5 3 '3 Beans Do. 2 I Webham Do. I 2 1 1 234 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. } Postlade's Houses & Ham Portingale's House, East Street Vaughan's . . Major's Major's Jordan's or Cudmore' House, &c. Ball Lopse's Tuckfield Meadow . Brightley Lower Maddaford Lower Westacott One-third of St. John's Land in Bow School House, Garden and Ham St. James Chapel Woodhouse near Pound Houses & Land Garden House, &c. Do. Meadow House, &c. 4 3 29 2 I 4 136 o o 205 I 4 Meadow Do. Houses, &c. . . — Houses & Land 10 i 36 Houses, &c. Houses, &c. Do. Land Do. Do. 208 004 o 2 39 009 o I 37 008 BARTON BARN ESTATE. SCHEDULE V. Allotments Tenants various. 90 3 23 Rent, ^154- THE ALMSHOUSE OF RICHARD BROCK. SCHEDULE VI. The Almshouse at Okehampton consisting of two Dwell- ings and a Plot of Ground containing la. or. 22p., part HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 235 whereof is occupied by the Almspeople, and the remainder let at Rents amounting altogether to £b a year, or there- abouts. The bequest of £\o under the Will of Grace Brock dated 7th May, 1836, and received by the Corporation. Sealed, by Order of the Board, /his hveyity- first day of February, One thousa7id eight hundred and sn^enty three. HENRY M. VANE, Secretary. Okehampton Castle (or all that remains of it) is now the property of the Earl of Devon, having been purchased by the late Earl of Sir Henry Wrey a few years since, thus again becoming associated with the ancient family of Courtenay so connected with it in its earlier history. This ruin is now the chief sight of this most interesting district, and no visitor to the old town should fail to explore its romantic ruins or to moralise awhile upon its past great- ness and present state. It is needless, however, to enlarge upon its various features here, as the description given by earlier writers in the preceding pages will very well serve for the present time, the lapse of a few years having made no material difference in its aspect. Visitors will have no difficulty in gaining access to the ruins, and will be amply repaid for any exertions they may incur by the explora- tion which affords a rich treat to any one of an antiquarian or poetic turn, for they will be able to re-clothe the old walls, to restore the grand old fabric, and make the ancient banqueting hall resound to the mirth and music of the 236 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. life and gaiety of feudal times, or the venerable chapel to resound with the chant of the choristers or the solemn notes of prayer. The views from the castle are very fine, and one can compare, while peeping out of one of the narrow slits for arrows which pierce the massive wall, the ancient modes of defence and offence, with the modern artillery now being experimented with on the heights immediately fronting the Castle. We refer, of course, to the artillery practice in the "Park" near Yes Tor. Okehampton Park, con- sists of about 1,500 acres, the joint property of Miss Luxmore, Mrs. Trevor Roper, and Mrs. Lees, the three daughters of the late Rev. John Luxmore. This immense tract of moorland was purchased in 1780 by Charles Luxmore, Esq., of Kingston-on-Thames, from Albany Savile, Esq. The present proprietors have leased eighty acres for twenty-one years to the War Department for artillery practice : a large force of Field and Royal H orse Artillery encamp here every year for several months. Per- manent stables have been erected. Further particulars of this most interesting district, its natural features and anti- quarian remains will be found in the article from the pen of Mr. William Crossing, a gentleman whose knowledge of Dartmoor is most extensive. In the Meldon Valley a valuable vein of granulite has recently been discovered, which is being successfully used in glass-making. Other minerals abound in this remarkable spot, a geological description of which would be desirable. About four years ago Mr. Charles Geen leased the quarry of granite at Meldon, and has since made arrangements with a syndicate of gentlemen to undertake its working and HISTORY OF OlvEHAMProN'. 237 also of the lime quarries adjoining. The granulite is turned to many uses, and is quite a new material in glass-making, at at least, in England. Mr. Seimens, the great authority on such matters says it is the best specimen he has seen and far surpasses any he can get in Dresden or elsewhere in Germany. It is hoped that the development of this new industry with others resulting therefrom will be the means of adding to the prosperity of the town and district by the increase of remunerative labour. There is a siding at the Meldon viaduct for the accommodation of traffic in these materials. This quarry and the beautiful valley adjoining is becoming a great attraction to visitors. Many indications of the more precious metals have been traced, and some beautiful specimens of talc crystals and even of gems have been found. Arrangements are now^ in progress for opening the lime - kilns adjoining ; this will give additional employ- ment. The fishing in the neighbouring rivers is excellent, and the landowners are always pleased to grant permission to visitors to try their skill within their respective estates. The trout in the East and West Ockments, though small, are extremely sweet and preferred by many to the larger fish in wider streams. The upper waters of the Ockment and the Taw on the moor being free. After passing the town it flows through the grounds of Oaklands the residence of Mr. Wyndham Hunt Holley and for several miles through his estates. He is extremely liberal with the fishing and freely gives tickets to legitimate fishermen. The town possesses two excellent bands which perform frequently. Altogether it may be said that Okehampton 238 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. has made vast strides within the last few years and there is no reason why, with a still further display of public spirit, and careful management, it may not become one of the leading towns in central Devon. HISTORY OK OKliHAMl'lON. ZjQ EX BONO AMICI. Two Rivers from one fountain i^^suing came Near to that Foreland Hercules did name, "Which by their Spring to Gemini liken'd are. But in their courses disagreeing far, Touridge no sooner gotten from his head, Is by a turning crooked Channel led ; And full of mndings thro' the dales doth wander, Sporting itself in many awry meander. Still ghding forth altho' it fleet full flow. Which way it bendeth lest its Noise should shew, Tamar comes after, and both frets and roars. And her unkind departure much deplores ; Tears in its furj', rageth Lion like, For the not finding her whom she doth seek. All discontent, and thus repudiate Unto the Southern Coast her course doth take. Whereas it findeth Pannage thro' long search. (And 'twas 'twixt Britts and Saxons made the March) Touridge that long had woo'd her loved Ock, WTiich for mere Haste o'ertumbleth many a rock. Is now impatient of so long Delay, And looks to meet his Ligby on the way. As he comes rowling out of Dartmoor Hills, Accompany'd with many pleasant Rills. At last long looked for they together met, Where Wedlock Band in form full sure is knit ; Therefore apparell'd in their best Array, As Bridals use upon their Nuptial-day, A thousand kisses pass them 'twain betwixt. With Courtesies more than a thousand mixt. There Occa doth with mutual love and heart Both stream and name unto her mate impart. And now the Pipes on eveiy side resound, The Water Nymphs and wanton Satyrs round About they dance their measures cunningly, And foot it on the grass as featly. Then sing they diil of Hercules the story Of whom so famous is our Promontory, 240 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. Who vanquish'd Albion, Neptune's son, in fight And him in field most stoutly killed outright. Which done embracing 'long the Fields they tread, Beholding Marshes and each fniitful Mead. When amorously bent they Clip some Places, Even insulating others with Embraces ; And now the Bride in glory of her Fame, Salutes the Chiefest Town that bears her name Whose tower'd Castle hovering on a hill. Devouring Time hath thereon wrought his will. From whence this river glides to GifFard Wear, Where farther flowing Neptune doth forbear. At Bideford her stream with Bridge is crown'd, For number of her Arches much renown'd ; Her tilting Tides near unto Appledoor, Have clean swept Hubba's Trophy off" the shore, Which there was set Posterity might know, At Kenarth Castle his great Overt brow. Thus forcible you see are Wallowing Waves, They wash the dead and buried out of Graves. Forward still forceth by the Sandy Burrows, On that we term the Bar turns foaming furrows, Lastly pays tribute to that peaceful Bay Where Londey with his Guard doth Sway. HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. 241 5^ 8 I ^ Ir 5 c o c c g-s: 3; 3 o i ^ c ^ ,V P =" = S OS .a bc c c S a CI '■5 :: H .X, t; -^ o i_ _r rt , ^se 2-3 g 5 y .5 ^ ^ ■'- (u C - ^ rt > P ^ ^ - ^ (-■ i- !-■ r 1 4) 2 "Bio's . O l> ~ 1-3 O (A I- o "C O si 5-3 C ■?« O c V O a W 00 g ■4-t V ^ -3 M ^ 3 •—I ^ rt O -__ C ou .2 ' Jr" s II ^ re o 3 £ 1 JS c o c o 3 T3 C < ^^ 1^5 6jON -?^ C « 3 2 § c ■< J3 •O 00 •CO o « o t— )j^ U O o c C C ^ 3 00 — rt t- u >■ i:^ is =^ s I Ji « c S s I E u -C J2 3 4> ^ (ft — !- rt rt O 4) C Oi -^'E o £ E -J — ^ ^ >^ Zj ^ qj <^ = E 5 C/3 _ u .2; 3 "^•o o 24-2 HISTORY OF OKEHAMPTON. LIST OF OKEHAMPTON TOKENS. s ! ^ I 7 Ob. — Christopher Drew, CD., Rev. — of Okehanipton, The Mercers' Arms. O. — Hester Gayer, of H.G. R. — Okehampton. 1652. H.G. O. — William Pingston, of (a Woolpack) R. — in Okehampton, his half-peny. W.P. O. — John Shebbear. Arms of the family R. — in Okehampton, 1667, his half-penny. O. — John Shebber. The Grocers' Arms. R. — in Okehampton. J.S. O. — Francis Squire of (A Roll of tobacco and a pipe) R. — Okehampton Mercer his half-peny. F.G.S. O. — Ockington, 1657, J. M. G. R. — half-peny, in two hnes across a field. No. 113 • \ AND WARDLE g I ^ FOR EVER. S The above is a rough tracing of a medal ob. and rev. ; struck by Mr. Wardle, who was the last member for the Borough. ■^^^=-^jl^^ THE NINE MAIDENS, NEAR OKEHAMPTON. L± ■^ L^a ^ 61 THE LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA Santa Barbara THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW. UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY AA 000 241 587 5 €., .^'^1^^^ ■'vif t ^a*.- ^ .. «■ ^ li*^" ■-.#, _ ■^tt--- >Jt