B J X ,. 1 1 E Y ^ I LIBRARY I UMVERSaY OF V CALIFORNIA Traented to 'i with the K^nd %egardi and ^est Wishes f of the \ 55 O OUR HOLIDAY IN WILD WALES, 73 like the Abyssinian Rasselas, rose up amongst them, who would not be confined within the limits of these hills. He was cautioned by the sages of the valley that beyond those mountains were *' regions of calamity, where discord was always raging, and where man preyed upon man," but he would not be persuaded. He set forth on his travels till he came to a great city, whose inhabitants were in danger of perishing for lack of water; there he saw "the miseries of the world " which he had gone forth in search of, and he told those unhappy people all about his own native valley, through which a pleasant river ran, perpetually supplied from the everlasting hills, pure and sweet. And the men of that great city arose and went to see this happy valley, and they coveted it. They said, we will dam up one end of the valley and make a great lake, which shall climb a hundred feet up the sides of the hills, and this water shall be a perpetual source of supply to our great city ; we will bore holes through mountains, lay down great pipes and aqueducts across valleys, and pour into the reservoirs of our city, and our people shall no longer be in danger of perishing for want of water. This great deed was done, the water gradually rose up and filled the valley, and the people who had lived there all their lives were driven out to find for themselves new homes elsewhere ; but some of the very old people loved the place of their birth, and would not move out of their houses till the rising waters poured in at their windows, then they went away and died of broken hearts. Still the waters rose, till farms and villages, churches, chapels, and 74 BV MEADOW AND STREAM. homesteads were overwhelmed and now lie beneath the great lake. Tombstones and coffins with their contents had been removed, and planted afresh in sacred ground on the mountain side ; the church- yards were laid down with cement, and the waters which now flow over these engulfed villages and churchyards, and pour for many miles through tun- nels and tanks, is pellucid and pure, and the people of the great city derive health and vigour from the waters of these mountains of Wales. And so it was that the happy valley of the Vyrnwy became a great lake, filled with big trout and other gamesome fishes ; happy anglers sail upon its surface, and return to the hotel laden with 'spoil, naturalists find endless occupation amongst the birds and ferns and rocks on the hills all round, and the great city of Liverpool is grateful to the young Rasselas who first hinted to them that here, lying in the bosom of North Wales, was the water supply they so sadly needed. It was to visit this wonderful lake, and, if haply we could, to catch some of the trout which were said to swarm in its waters, that we travelled from London (I, my daughter R., and her husband) on the last day of June, 1894 — a glorious day. This happy valley (now a small sea five miles in length) lies high up in the Welsh mountains, far away from railways and " madding crowds." The twelve or fifteen mile drive through lovely mountain scenery already inspires one with glowing hope, and we reach the Lake Vyrnwy Hotel with a warm welcome from the cheerful hostess. Looking on Lake Vyrnwy from the hotel window OUR HOLIDAY IN WILD WALES. 75 on the glorious summer evening of our arrival, one's first impression of it is that of its vast antiquity. Sur- rounded as it is by the everlasting hills, its rugged time-w^orn shores surely prove that its existence is coeval with the hoary mountains that encompass it. Yonder, standing out in the lake, is an ancient Italian tower, which in the gloaming looks as old and weather-beaten as the " prison of Chillon," to which, indeed, it bears a marked resemblance, not, one may presume, undesigned. Another first impression is the perfect peace which reigns around this ancient lake. There is a gentle silent simmer on the surface of the water, and nothing is heard but the singing of many birds in the woods beneath us. When I read the very interesting description of this lake which appeared in **The Fishing Gazette" a long time ago, written by C. W. Gedney, I decided to take the first chance of coming and seeing it for myself. He seems to have described every part of it in so thorough and practical a way, and always with an angler's eye to its fishing capabilities, that I hardly see an opening for a mere amateur to find anything new to say about it ; but, as a truthful narrator, I must tell of things as I find them. July \st. — Sitting in one of the summer-houses which the hotel provides for its guests on a rugged brow, looking down upon the lake over the top of a fringe of green oak foliage, who shall tell me that yonder expanse of blue water lying in a great basin, formed by a circle of Welsh hills a thousand feet above the sea, has not reflected the wood-crowned heights, brown heather-clad mountains, cultivated 76 BV MEADOW AND STREAM. fields and green meadows, which on all sides slope down to its very margin, ever since they began to stand as they stand yonder now ? Just above where I am now sitting is an obelisk, which, at this distance, I take to be at least of the same antiquity as Cleopatra's Needle, which for a thousand years lay prone in Alexandria's sands, and now stands erect on the banks of the Thames. It seems at a short distance to bear hieroglyphics partly obliterated by venerable age. But what is it that I read on closer inspection ? What is the truth about this tall monument which as seen from a distance ** lifts its bold head and lies?" It now reveals a truthful and melancholy story. After all, then, this wonderful lake is probably the youngest in the world ; it is not yet five years old, with all the calm dignity of a thousand years. Art has intentionally assisted Nature in producing this air of antiquity. The monument, which is most sub- stantially built of rough dark blue granite, was erected *' To the memory of men who have died while efnployed in the works of Lake Vyj-nwy, 1880 to 1890. Erected by their fellow workmefi. " It also bears the names of the men, ten of whom were killed, and thirty-four who died during that period. Monday, July 2nd. — Full of the grand exploits which the eloquent Mr. G. had led us to anticipate, we start for the lake. I took one boat and R. and her husband another, and that nothing should be wanting, G. 's boatman became mine. Now, Tom is a poet, a descendant of the bards of old. He it was who celebrated, no doubt in touching strains, the \ OUR HOLIDAY IN WILD WALES. 77 opening of this lake ; he is a frequent prize winner, and constantly finds a welcome corner in the weekly newspaper ; but Tom is very modest, and I have not yet prevailed on him to give me only a few verses for *'The Fishing Gazette," which, being in Welsh, I am sure would be highly appreciated. He plays the harp " a little." My boatman poet is a giant in strength, and he smiles gently when I sometimes promise to throw him overboard for not bringing me over rising fish. Tom is not enthusiastic, indeed rather pessimistic, he does not think the water propitious for fishing, gleams of sunshine, he says, thrown on troubled waters through white clouds cause a glaring shimmer not good for fishing, which I am sure is bosh ; however, it soon came on to rain heavily, and then between us, for it would be invidious to say which boat was most successful, Tom or David's, we captured five and a half brace of fine trout. We did not regard this as much to brag about, knowing what has been done here, but we were moderately content, looking for better doings to- morrow. Tuesday, July yd. — Attracted by the lovely scenery below the embankment bridge, I employed this morn- ing in an attempt to rise a trout from the bright shallow water of the River Vyrnwy, for, notwithstanding the divergence of its waters to Liverpool, the Corporation is bound to maintain the river's normal supply as a tributary of the Severn, but I only rose and caught one trout. Meanwhile David had taken his pair of enthusiasts on the lake. R. throws the fly with skilL 78 By MEADOW AND STREAM. and precision, and her husband is rapidly becoming an expert under her tuition ; but like myself they failed on this occasion. The good and beautiful lake refused to yield up its treasures of fish, but not the less were they pleased with their experience, paddling around the lake. This new lake, like the old ones, has already learnt to be capricious, and is not always to be successfully wooed. We are getting accustomed to finish up one day by hopefully looking for better luck on the morrow. Wednesday, July d^h. — Fishing, according to our two melancholy prophets, being out of the question, on account of the brilliancy and heat of the sun, we drove up to the far end of the lake to assist in netting three of the creeks for our ancient enemy, the villainous chub. Here we had good hope of an exciting scene, for it was only last week that our netsmen (under the able superintendence of our hostess. Miss Davies, hauled out over 2,000 chub from their spawning grounds. During the past few weeks over 4,000 of these lovely but despised monsters have been caught about here, and the atmosphere is still not sweet over the spot where these tons of chub lie buried. Our catch altogether amounted to two chub. Thursday , July ^th. — Miss Davies — perhaps a little too confident on account of the success which generally attends her expeditions on the lake — volunteered to accompany us for another attack on the chub in the same quarters ; and so it happened that on this most lovely day we had another drive round the lake, gathering oak ferns on our way. We drove right up into the mountains, and beyond where our horses OUR HOLIDAY IN WILD WALES. 79 could go I walked to explore the source of the Vyrnwy ; for miles I plodded on through the wild mountain pass, till at last, caught in a bog, I fell slap into the very beginning of this water. Muddy and rather slimy I returned to the carriage. We then drove on to the creek and netted thirteen chub, and so ended our chubbing. On the road we found another bard, for they seem to be as plentiful as bilberries in these parts. He was a fine old chap, who goes by the name of Tom Richards, he was engaged in painting the Corporation rails which surround the lake. Thos. Richards is endowed with a splendid baritone voice, old man though he is. He made the welkin ring with that spirited song, " Hyfaen y cwrw melen," which being interpreted means, " The cream of good beer ; " then he gave us " Dyffryn Clwyd," " The Vale of Clwyd," and the "Men of Harlech" (of course in Welsh). He finished by giving a carol in a very touching strain — for Thos. R. is known throughout the whole country as an exquisite carol-singer. Friday^ July 6th. — Another bright day. We started off with lunch in our boats and hope in our hearts to spend a happy day at the far end of the lake. There was a pleasant ripple on the water, like the silvery scales on the sides of a chub, as we trolled lazily up the north shore, drawing each of us a poor little spinning minnow behind us, but drawing no trout thereby. I tried my celebrated spinner, known as "the Derby Killer," and he brought me in one fine trout, a small triumph over the natural minnow the others were trying. When we reached the centre 8o BV MEADOIV AND STREAM. of the lake, marked by white posts on each side, we put up our spinners and took to our flies as in duty bound — but first we made our way to an old ruined chapel which stands on the very edge of the lake, and only just failed of being swallowed up when the great flood came. Just below us as we row up to this old chapel lie, a hundred feet deep, the remains of the church, the chapel, the "Powys Arms," and the village of Llanwddyn. This chapel now serves as a resting-place for anglers — piscatoribus sacrum — and here we rested and partook of our luncheon. Then we proceeded to Eunant Bay, and fished from the shore, but with small success, for time and season are against us. Last month we should have done wonders, and so should we do next month if we could but stay, but this month the attempt is useless — thus are we comforted by Tom the sad poet, and David the desponding. The most interesting thing that happened to us, and it was really a novel and a pretty sight, was Rose's encounter with the sandpipers on the Eunant beach, which shall be given in her own words. "As I was casting my flies from the beach of Eunant, a pretty sandpiper flew backwards and forwards, scolding around me. I was not aware that the little mother bird was speaking to me, but it gradually dawned upon me that I was the object of her displeasure, that her maternal instincts were aroused, and that somehow 1 was keeping her from her nest. Still the trout were rising, and all my thought was, * Silly bird, go to your home, and leave me a chance for yonder two-pounder,' but she wouldn't OUR HOLIDAY IN WILD WALES. 8i go, and presently flew to a rock a yard from my feet, seemingly in the utmost distress. I could stand it no longer. Throwing down my rod, I called David to come and search for the nest; we heard a wee cry from the young ones, but although.it seemed to come from the ground at our feet, we could not find the nest, so gave it up. But the bird was not happy, nor was I, for I felt I was doing a cruel thing in keeping that woebegone little mother from her chicks. It was quite pitiful the way she begged me to go away. I looked about again, and I found that had I taken another step backwards I should have hurried a wee fluffy baby sandpiper out of the world ; then I found two more, and last, out of a hole in the bank, came forth another. I gathered them up gently and made a nest on the beach with grass ; they closed their eyes and looked so resigned and sad, as if they thought it was all up with them, and my heart ached, for I felt that I was the innocent cause of all this lamentation, and mourning, and woe. But baby sandpipers are dear little humbugs ; the instant I left the nest, and their mother called them, those half dead and frightened little pipers ran as fast as their legs would carry them to the secure shelter of their mother's wings, which she spread over them just as a hen does over her chickens. Sandpipers nest on the ground,^ they lay four eggs, and as soon as the young birds can walk they 1 The nest, if it was a nest, where we found these little unfledged birds was just under a bit of overhanging turf, resting on the ground, leaving a hollow space behind. The birds ran in and out at both ends, but there was no appearance of lining of any kind. G 82 BV MEADOIV AND STREAM, wander away from home, and the affectionate mother has an anxious time in keeping an eye, one after another, on the whole brood. The maternal instincts in the hen were so strong that we could have caught her easily as she came boldly up almost to our feet to cuddle and croon over her brood of unruly chicks ; and her gentle cooing tone towards them curiously contrasted with the shrill, nagging tone she had used to warn me off." David vowed he never saw such a pretty scene in all his life, and I am sure Tom Parry is meditating a poem to be called " The Piper's Nest '* (in Welsh), which, if it reaches fruition, I shall hope to include in this book for the special edification of my readers, particularly of that large portion of them who are acquainted with the Welsh language. Saturday ^ July "Jth. — Not quite so pleasant a day as usual. A cold wind blew over the lake, which had a boisterous and unfishable look. Rose and Arthur, accompanied by the faithful David, ventured out, and came back with two and a half brace in the morning, and three and a half brace in the evening — six brace of fine trout, which made a pretty display on the hall table. Up to last night and during the whole week Hotel Vyrnwy has been almost in our sole possession. Last night the Water Committee of the Corporation of Liverpool came down upon us in a body to examine their property and enjoy a pleasant holiday, and they could hardly come to a pleasanter place. I will finish up my record of this week by saying that the accommodation to be found in Hotel Vyrnwy is such as should satisfy any reasonable being ; it is OUR HOLIDAY IN WILD WALES. 83 very tastefully furnished throughout, the table is ex- ceptionally liberal, and the cooking is perfect. I should like emphatically to endeavour to dispel what I find to be a very general impression, that this beau- tiful little inland sea is a mere reservoir and nothing more. Its constantly changing panorama is always in front of us, and the varying tints of the surround- ing hills as sunshine and shade alternate are delightful to gaze upon. Painters of nature may find a happy resting-place in this health-giving retreat. I am myself a living proof of the bracing atmosphere, having come here a week ago in a somewhat dyspeptic tone of body and mind. I can now eat the trout I have caught with proper zest, and at the present moment am prepared to challenge any member of the Liverpool Corporation to a foot race from here down to yonder bridge. Not being an all-round sportsman, I have found nothing to say about the many thousands of acres of grouse moors connected with this hotel, or of the abundance of wildfowl to be had for the shooting. There is an excellent tennis lawn for those who enjoy that health-giving game, and a superb billiard room for indoor amusement. There is room enough and to spare on the hillsides for a tough golf-link, and a club will soon be formed for this sport. I should be very ungrateful were I to close this rambling article without making some acknowledg- ment to our most kind and cheerful hostess, Miss Davies, who possesses the happy faculty of inspiring her guests with the assurance that life is worth living at Lake Vyrnwy. CHAPTER VIII. A RIDE OVER THE MOUNTAINS. A twenty-two mile ride over the mountains to Bala — Lovely scenery— Jenny Jones— Plascoch Hotel— A charming ancient hostelry — Ancient furniture — Oliver Cromwell's bed— The Vale of Edeirion — Queen's visit to Pale — Bala whisky — Bala water to supply London — A charming ride back to hotel— Forty miles in all. UESDA V, July loM.— Yesterday (the 9th) we fished the lake all day, lazily roaming over its surface, rather careless whether we caught fish or did not catch them, the total result being six brace of elegant trout. To-day we abandon the lake and are off in a waggonette and pair of horses, with Miss Davis as our guide, for a twenty-two mile drive over these wild Welsh mountains to Bala. I wish no worse luck to my readers than that they should, in their turn (with Miss D. as their guide), have such a glorious ride as we had, for although we set forth early in the day in a downpour of rain which threatened to be continuous, it lasted only an hour. The nearest way to Bala is fifteen miles, but we A RIDE OVER THE MOUNTAINS. 85 took the longest, the wildest, and most rugged, over the Eunant and Moel y gadfa mountains (I am not sure about the names of my mountains), a ride which made our hearts rejoice, for the air was delicious and the scenery superb. I am sure there is nothing finer in Wales than the grand view one gets of the vale of Dinas Mawddwy from the junction road, on the top of the pass of Bwlchygroes, where we halted to rest our horses, and be refreshed ourselves from the generous basket which Miss D. had thoughtfully provided. Turning northwards at the junction, with our backs on the beautiful valley, and frequently enjoying long walks up the steep ascents, we, after many miles of winding, downward ways, found ourselves at the village of Llanuwchllyn. Here it was that we met old Jenny Jones, who, in her youthful days, " when George the Fourth was King," must have rivalled her namesake of " The Vale of Llangollen " for grace and beauty. She wore the national costume (now rapidly disappearing) and stood a snap - shot from A. 's ** Kodak" with graceful dignity. On the roadside which runs along the beautiful lake of Bala is a remarkable object called "The Trinity Tree." Out of a stem of oak spring a mountain ash and a birch tree, all three now in full foliage.^ ' Remarkable Growth on Oak Trees. — "A correspon- dent writes to us from Viking es, Hardanger : ' In my rambles through the woods I have been much struck with the luxuriance of vegetation. The oak is not a common tree in this latitude in Norway, but here are some really wonderful oaks. They must be of very great age indeed, considering how slowly the oak grows in Norway. We measured one of them and found it to 86 JBV MEADOW AND STREAM. Bala Lake, the whole length of which we passed along on the western side, is not by two hundred acres so large as Lake Vyrnwy, nor- is the scenery which immediately surrounds it so imposing. The fishing there is said to be good, and would be better but for the numerous pike, which want thinning out. That was a stout pair of horses that drew four of us and a weighty, steady coachman (always addressed as "Johnny " by Miss D.) up and down those moun- tain sides, and landed us safely at the Plascoch Hotel Bala. This is one of the quaintest hotels imaginable, combining all the good features of an ancient hostelry with all the last modern appliances. Here are fine old Chippendale tables, ancient carved oak chests and bedsteads, and priceless old china. Here, in the hall, a venerable harpist, said to be one of the best in Wales, delighted our ears with the most charming melodies. We could not stay the night, or I might have been be just twenty feet in circumference. Another tree forms with a bough a beautiful natural arch over a path in the woods. But the strangest thing is to see on some of these oaks, tall well grown mountain ashes, growing on the parent oak, and now forming a part of the tree. I do not know if this is a common occurrence with the oak or other trees, but I have never seen such a growth before. More than a dozen trees have mountain ashes growing out of them. In one or two of the older trees, the ash has grown up the hollow stem, its fine polished bark looking like a pipe in the hollow trunk, and half way up the tree, you can see the leaves and berries appearing through a hole in the old oak tree. I would be glad if some of your botanical readers would say if such growths are common in other places.' " — Front Beyer s Weekly News for Travellers in Norway. A RIDE OVER THE MOUNTAINS. 87 haunted by the ghost of Oliver Cromwell, who once slept on one of these bedsteads on the occasion of a memorable visit to a neighbouring mansion. This hotel belongs to, and is well looked after by, our own hostess of **The Vyrnwy," the indefatigable Miss D. It may be incidentally mentioned that wild Wales is now about to enter into serious rivalry with Scotland and Ireland in the matter of tvhisky ; the new Welsh whisky is to surpass old Irish and old Scotch in purity, strength, delicacy of flavour, and any other good qualities there may be that go to make most excellent toddy. This is, of course, bold assertion without proof. I do not pretend to be an adequate judge. I will only say that the sample I tasted was very good, but being only a thimbleful, was not enough to inspire me with proper eloquence. Here it was, in a cellar, that we were permitted to have a private view of a puncheon of the new liquor, oak- polished and silver-hooped, which the Freemasons of Bala are about to present to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, their Grand Master, on the occasion of his approaching visit to Rhyl. As a curious coincidence, this old town of Bala, so soon to become celebrated for its whisky^ is also destined to become more celebrated for its water. We are told here that London, bitterly disappointed at the loss of our Vyrnwy, has now decided to seize upon Bala Lake and carry its water as well as its whisky to Babylon. A great dam, like the one I look down upon now from Hotel Vyrnwy, is to be formed below the old town, and the water will rise mountains high, and that charming old town, its 88 BV MEADOW AND STREAM. curious hotels, churches, and chapels, will disappear "like the baseless fabric of a vision," just as yonder village of Llanwyddan lies hidden in this lake. But a new Bala will arise on the mountain sides, and its whisky and its water will flourish for ever. It was nearly seven o'clock before we could tear ourselves away from Bala, and then, by the toss of a penny, we were destined to return by an equally circuitous route, which led us over the Berwyn Mountains by, if possible, a still more picturesque route than the one by which we had arrived. Passing up the mountain side we had glorious views of many other mountains — Cader Idris, towering highest away off westward, and Arran Maw^ddwy, the second highest in Wales, which lifts its cloud-capped head above the hills surrounding Lake Vyrnwy. Then down yonder at our feet we trace the river Dee winding its way through the Vale of Edeirion, said to be the most lovely in the Principality. Yonder is the noble castle of Pale nestling in the woods and looking down the vale. Here it was that Her Majesty spent some days in the year 1889, and pro- nounced the surrounding scenery to be the most charming she had ever seen, which gracious words have made the inhabitants very proud. And so our horses plodded steadily up steeps and down inclines and across undulating moors, and the night came slowly on, till twilight deepened into darkness, and nothing could be seen, and nothing heard but the steady tramp of our horses, the clatter of our own tongues, the occasional bark of a sheep- dog, and the bleating of a mountain sheep in the A RIDE OVER THE MOUNTAINS. 89 distance, the clucking cries of grouse in the bilberry bushes away up on the mountain sides. An occasional star twinkled through the clouds, but the moon on its downward course failed to cast a glimmer of light through its curtain of blackness till it rested on the distant mountain tops, over which for a few minutes it threw a grand display of fireworks, and then sank down, leaving us in darkness still more visible. Our steady horses knew every step of the road, and they trotted down steep inclines where a swerve of a foot or two to right or left would have sent us all whirling into space. At the foot of Berwyn we came down upon the important mining village of Llangynog, where we gave our trusty steeds a refreshing meal of bran mash. Somewhere up yonder in the darkness above this village lies Penant Melangell, the ** City of Refuge." " *Tis a church in a vale, Whereby hangs a tale How a hare being pressed by the dogs was much distressed, The huntsman coming nigh, And the dogs in full cry. Looked about for someone to defend her ; And saw just in time, As it now comes pat in rhyme, A saint of the feminine gender." SOUTHEY. The poor hare found refuge under the saint's petticoats. This good saint was called Monacella. The princely huntsman, it is said, was so impressed, that he endowed an abbey, of which she became the abbess. 90 BY MEADOW AND STREAM. The darkness of our way was here and there bril- liantly lighted up by innumerable glow-worms shining forth to attract their mates, and they really served as lights to our feet and lamps to our path in the deepening darkness. We reached Hotel Vyrnwy at eleven o'clock, our single pair of horses having carried us over hill and dale for more than forty miles, a most pleasant excur- sion, which none of us will ever forget. Thursday f July I2th. — A showery morning, with alternate sunshine and a continuous cold wind. We visited the trout breeding ponds which the late pro- prietor of this hotel, Mr. Ward, has established up yonder on the hill side. The young fry and yearlings in the smaller ponds are in flourishing condition. There is one small pond containing about 3,500 year- ling trout which presented a most lively appearance ; they are exclusively of the good old Vyrnwy breed, playful and frisky, taking the food thrown in to them, and following the man in charge round the side with the utmost apparent glee ; these are the sort of fish that will know how to rise to the fly when they take their turn next February to go out into the lake. In the larger pond and other tanks there are some thousands of yearlings, two-year-olds, and smaller, which will also go to increase the swarm in Lake Vyrnwy. These native trout grow faster, and thrive better, than the fish imported from Loch Leven. Unfortunately, on account of their pluck, they are the very fish that first get into trouble in the lake. The keeper is of opinion that nearly all of them that were put in a year ago have fallen victims to the rod A RIDE OVER THE MOUNTAINS. 91 and line and imitation flies, while the Loch Leven trout mostly come to the minnow, and do not rise well. Nor are they to be compared in plumpness to the natives, and generally arrive lanky and listless, as if life in Lake Vyrnwy was not good for them. The cross-bred fish are better fighters ; and, doubtless, in course of a short time the old stock will come to the front as a survival of the fittest. It may be added that the yearly turn-out from these hatcheries amounts to about sixty thousand fry. . Friday^ July I'^th. — As I sit basking in the sun facing the lake on this bright morning, three merry maidens come tripping down the road with rakes on their shoulders — they are going a-haymaking up yonder on the hillside — and now I hear their pleasant laughter as they flit about the hayfield now raking up the fragments that remain after the cocks have been loaded on the sleighs, and now flirting with the swains who are pitching and loading. A. and R. are off" on the lake for the last time on the look-out for a last dish of trout, which they fortunately succeeded in getting. They brought in six brace of trout, which will accompany them home to-morrow. I meanwhile take a last stroll over the hills for a chat with the birds. I fancy that nearly all English birds are to be found round this lake. I made acquaintance with all my old friends and some new ones — the Mountain Brummar, locally so called, among others. Our wild Welsh visit is now drawhig to a close, and I can but hope that the random notes of my own very pleasant experiences may induce many others to try a like experiment. I have no motive for belaud- 92 BV MEADOW AND STREAM. ing this place, and certainly not the faintest ground for decrying it. I can only hope that all who may come here may derive as much pleasure from their visit as we have done who are now regretfully leaving it. Tom Parry, not feeling quite equal to a poem on the sandpiper's nest, has just sent the following lines, which speak for themselves : "LLYN Y VYRNWY (Lake Vyrnwy). " Hardd groew loew fawr Lyn— a welir Ar waelod Llanwddyn Roedd yn bod i ddod i ddyn Yn barod yn y Berwyn. * Gwrthglawdd y Vyrnwy ' ( ' The dam of the Vyrnwy '). ** Ceir urddas gwmpas y gwych gampwaith-hwn Ac ynddo orchestwaith ; A gwir enwog gywrainwaith Beri'n gryf heb yr un graith," Lake Vyrnwy Tom Parry. CHAPTER IX. A DAY IN ELYSIAN FIELDS. A wet day on the Ver — Fishing a failure — Trout tailing — In a shed not waterproof — Lark's nest — A lecture on cruelty to birds — A solitary trout — A run to catch train — Too late — A pleasant pub. and a good supper. H HAT wild enthusiast about everything of a fishy nature who, over the pseudonym of ** Dragnet," drags into his net all those interesting and amusing scraps in "The Fishing Gazette" which constitute its "lighter vein," has insisted, on behalf of the editor, on my writing a story of some sort for this Christmas number. But, bless him, I have no story to tell ! When I happen to have any reminiscences to fall back upon I record them truthfully, and without the garnish of a vivid imagination. I leave the imaginative to the poetic "Dragnet;" in his column truth is rarely found, and fiction doth abound. There are many men so happily fixed in the world as to be able to devote all the time they want to the delightful pleasures of angling. Others there are who, like myself, can but rarely indulge in waterside V 94 By MEADOW AND STREAM. amusements, and have therefore not even the most commonplace incidents to furbish up into readable material. The French used to say that November is the month in which Englishmen hang themselves. We have now reached that depressing period, without, let us hope, the suicidal tendencies which the French attri- bute to us, but which a visit to the Morgue at any time would probably show to be more applicable to themselves, only they generally drown themselves. If, as saith the poet, *' November's sky is chill and drear, November's leaf is red and sere," it hath its compensations. We have already made a considerable dip into the dark and dismal days of December, and can we not sit in our armchairs, those of us who are still young : " And anxious ask — will spring return, And birds and lambs again be gay. And blossoms clothe the hawthorn spray ? " while those of us who are old are apt to take back- ward glances, and beguile the weary time by trying to fight our pleasant angling battles o'er again. In this way, I, being too old to look forward, as some of you can, with the bounding hope of youth, will hark back to days gone by. It was in the leafy month of June that we started for a charming stretch of water on the pretty Hert- fordshire Ver. Our party consisted only of two rods — the Major and that well-known sporting writer *'Sarcelle." I A DAY IN ELYS I AN FIELDS. 95 had promised to meet them at West Drayton, and we were all to drive over together to our water, about five miles away. I missed the train, and so had, later on, to hire another trap and follow them. It was a blithe morning, not, however, quite free from suspicious clouds ; a morning of doubtful augury, whether for sun or rain. The Major had equipped himself in a thin summer suit and thin boots to match, and the **Sarcelle" was still more lightly clad ; whilst I, who had only come to look on, was prepared for any weather — mackintosh, umbrella, gaiters, and thick boots. I was weather- wise, they were weather-foolish. When I came up to them about noon it was in a drizzling rain, which came on thicker and thicker, till at length we were all compelled by a heavy downpour to adjourn to a neighbouring shed. They had fished for hours, of course with their usual consummate skill, but had caught nothing. If their clothing was damp, not to say saturated with wet, their thin shoes full of water, and flabby trousers clinging to their gaiterless legs, their spirits were not damped in the least ; they were ready at any moment to sally forth again at the first sign of the storm abating, but it did not abate. The aggravating part of it was that the little deep-running stream was bubbling over with big trout, but not a fly would they look at, natural or imitation. There they were with their broad, fan-like tails waggling out of the water and their heads down in the mud, some close under the banks, others having nice little gambols amid stream, playing about like big babies ; for you may be quite 96 BV MEADOW AND STREAM. sure that trout have their play time like the big bipeds who love to play with them. These trout were not a bit shy, as most trout are. Of course, with their heads in the mud, they could not see us, and their sense of hearing must be very slight. I all but caught a whopper by slyly putting the net under his body, but he was not to be caught in that improper way. We stood or squatted in that shed till its apparently waterproof covering of old rat -hole thatch became a a sieve, and the rain came through with as much free- dom as it came down outside. They had sent us from the railway hotel a basket of provisions and a big jar of beer, and as lunch time had arrived we tried, each of us, to find a dry corner in which to consume it, but a dry spot could not be found. My umbrella served me well, but the others had to eat their food soaked with rain-water. Our provisions had been brought down by a farm labourer, and the Major, with his usual magnificent but rather thoughtless liberality, had told him and a companion who had joined him to help themselves to some beer while we were away fishing — and they did. When we came to our jar we found it necessary to tilt it to an angle of about 75 degrees from the perpendicular before a drop of beer would come out. Our share amounted to about half a tumbler each out of this haif- gallon jar. Presently, when we had finished our repast, these two youths turned up, and, seeing the plight we were in, politely invited us to take shelter in a neighbour- ing barn. This refuge was at least quite dry, and A DAY IN ELYSIAN FIELDS. 97 there we were weatherbound for nearly three hours ; the rain came pouring dowTi, thunder rolling, and lightning flashing all the time. We smoked and told tales, and did what we could pour passer le temps. A game of marbles would have been a relief, but taws were wanting. By way of a little diversion one of these chaps came sidling up to us, with a leary look on his face and a twinkle in his eye, and said, in a low tone, as if he did not want all the world to know, ** Would erra one o' you gents like to take 'ome to your famblies a pair o' nice young singing larks ? I knows to a nest down in yander bushes." ** Well," I said, ** I should like to see a lark's nest ; come and show it to me. " So we trudged off through the rain and the long wet grass, and, as we reached the spot, two hundred yards off, the mother bird flew out of the bush, and flitted round in sore trouble. There across a deep ditch, and hidden away among the brambles, I saw the nest, and in it a couple of young nearly flush larks, with their mouths wide open. ** Pretty little innocents ! " I cried, sentimentally, **I would not touch them for all the world, and I strongly advise you, my friend, to keep your hands off them." *'Why?" said this young ruffian. " Why," said I, ** did you never hear of an Act of Parliament called the * Wild Birds Protection Act ? * Touch those birds, and you render yourself liable to twelve months' imprisonment, bread and water, hard labour, and a cat-o'-nine tails to finish you up with." H 98 BV MEADOW AND STREAM. " I dunno nothink about that," said he. " I don't see no more 'arm nor cruelty in me taking them young birds than there is in you taking young fishes. " This was a floorer for me for a moment, but I replied, with virtuous indignation. "You are quite mistaken, my friend; when by chance we catch young fish we immediately return them to the bosom of their family. It is only the old big sinners that go about marauding all day and all night seeking some living thing to devour that are sometimes wilHng to be caught by us. They are just as pleased to swallow flies with hooks in 'em as any other flies, and they quite enjoy being pulled out of the water, as you may easily see by the way they wriggle about. Besides, are you who have lived all your lifetime by the waterside ignorant of the well- known fact that cold-blooded fish have no sensory nerves, and therefore cannot feel any pain at all ? It is not so with birds. Again, don't you know that fish is a most wholesome, delicate, and necessary food for human beings ? What would become of us all with- out fish ? It would be a sin not to catch them." ** Well," said he, ' * ain't young larks good for human food ? Tell me anything that is nicer than plump young larks, 'specially on toast. " He had me again, *'on toast." My speech was quite lost upon him, he meant to have those young larks in spite of the law, and as many more as he could find a market for, and so we trudged back to the barn. At the first glimpse of a small scrap of hazy blue, A DAY IN ELYSIAN FIELDS. 99 enough to make a Chinaman a pair of breeches, struggling out of the heavy black clouds just over the tree tops in the west, and although drizzling rain was falling, and another storm of lightning, thunder, and rain was coming up from the east, the Major and **Sarcelle" determined to risk another wetting, and they got it. Profane outsiders would have called them cranks, but you, my readers, know something of the afflatus that inspires an angler's soul, and converts, for him, splashy puddles, long, wet grass, and pouring rain, into veritable Elysian fields. ** Sarcelle," as you know, is the French for teal, and teal is the smallest of the Duck tribe — hence his imperviousness to water — but the Major has no such excuse. They fished again, *' Sarcelle " using the wet-fly — not at all difficult in such weather — and the * ' chuck- and-chance-it " system. The Major adhered to the scientific " dry-fly " plan, wherein he is a well-known adept ; keeping his eye always wide awake for a rise, and never casting till he saw one ; but the trout were still a-tailing. After long and patient waiting the Major's quick eye caught sight of an almost imper- ceptible bubble under the opposite bank ; he placed his fly exactly on that spot, a big trout seized it, and a long and pretty battle ensued. There was a long and broad belt of cut and live weeds lying in the middle of the stream, and after a desperate struggle to get under these weeds, the Major brought him to the top of them, and then the hook came away, but the astonished trout knew it not, he thought he was caught, and lay there dreaming of the frying-pan for the space of about one xoo BV MEADOJV AND STREAM. minute ; he weighed just i lb. 13J oz. I could not reach him with the net ; he was too far away, and the water was deep. The Major touched him with the point of his rod ; he awoke from his pleasant dream, and was off like a dart. If my memory is not at fault, that was the only fish that was caught on that delightful day, and he, as we have seen, was not caught. I weighed him accu- rately with my eye as he resteci sweetly on that bed of weeds. I had found it necessary repeatedly to warn this brace of enthusiasts that time was flying, and that trains would not wait. I got them away at last ; we returned to our hovel, gathered up our traps, and then we had considerably more than a mile to go, and just about twelve minutes to catch our train. We walked fast, and then ran fast. I, the elder, came in first, panting and breathless, and was charmed, as you may suppose, to see the red light at the end of the train pass out of the station as I reached the platform. We adjourned to the pleasant *'pub.," and took counsel with the landlord as to the best way of getting home. We wanted to drive over to West Drayton, but the landlord vowed he had neither horse nor trap nor man to spare, but our good " Sar- celle " so overcame him with blarney that he at last agreed not only to find a horse and trap, but he de- clared he would drive us over himself. He started off at once to get the trap, but by the time he was ready we had found our quarters so pleasant, that we de- cided to stay there two hours for the next train. It was a wise decision, for the rain came down again in A DAY IN ELYSIAN FIELDS. lox torrents. Our landlord was not a bit huffed at the changeableness of our minds. We ordered supper of ham and eggs and tea, and we were presently ushered into a very cosy private sitting-room where three charming young ladies were reading and sewing ; but, unhappily for us, no sooner had we entered their symposium, than they gathered up their books and fancy work, and flitted away like frightened fawns ; and no wonder, for on surveying ourselves in the glass on the mantelshelf, we discovered that we looked like three half-drowned poachers who had just been rescued from the river. There was a blazing fire in the room, at which we dried our draggled habiliments, and we consoled our- selves for the loss of the fairies by consuming a supper more fit for the heroes we were than the brigands we looked like. We caught the nine o'clock train, and so ended my only visit to the Ver. I need not say that, despite our disasters, we all longed to revisit that pleasant stream and to make acquaintance with those splendid trout under circumstances less favourable for them, when their tails would be where they ought to be, lying horizontally with their heads up-stream, and keeping a keen look-out for the flies floating above them. Now, my angling friends, as Christmas is coming, I bid you all farewell, with this parting benediction : May your homes be happy, may your wives be minis- tering angels, may there be no domestic jars (except for pickles and such like), no frettings and wranglings and naggings, which are like the crackling of thorns I02 BV MEADOW AND STREAM. under a pot. May your daughters be as the tender vines dinging round your hearts ; may your sons be stalwart, affectionate, honest, and truthful ; may you all eat your Christmas pudding with moderation and thankfulness ; and, finally, may you sometimes have tight lines and full creels when you go a-fishing. I say sometimes advisedly ; if you were sure your creels would always be filled the excitement and pleasure would pall upon you, and you would be deprived of such Elysian delights as those which befell the accom- plished Major and the famous ** Sarcelle " on the occa- sion I have endeavoured to describe. I write these lines from my solitary eyrie on the top of the northern heights of London. CHAPTER X. GRAYLING. A good day with ** Red Spinner " and the Major— The Pro- fessor — "Red Spinner " spins yarns— Professor instructs us on the virtues of black pepper and West India sugar — ** Red Spinner" clings to " the Shoulder of Mutton " and makes a full bag of big grayling — The Major becomes a rover, but captures seven brace of splendid grayling — The Professor instructs the A. A., who is fairly successful. *' O, blessed drums of Aldershot ! O, blest South-Western train ! O, blessed, blessed Speaker's clock ! All prophesying rain. * * * * * O, blest south wind, which toots his horn Through every hole and crack ! I'm off at eight to-morrow mom To bring such fishes back ! " Charles Kingsley. RID AY, Oct. \%th, 1895, Waterloo Station: ** Good morning to you, Professor, I am very glad to meet you this fine October morning, and happy to have your company on our little fishing excursion, on which my thoughts have been turned for many a long and weary day. I04 BV MEADOW AND STREAM. What think you of our prospects?" The Professor is not usually given to be optimistic, but he was con- strained to allow that the weather was not altogether unpromising. '* The wind last week," said he, " blew a gale down stream, the pools were boiling cauldrons, and the natural insects on the water were swept clean away ; not a grayling rose for six days, and fishing was nowhere.'* ** You will admit," I said, "that it looks more promising to-day ; there is but little wind stirring, so far as one can judge from the window, and that north-easterly, which suits our river exactly ; the sky is bright, with a few dull clouds hanging about ; the air is crisp — a fair-looking day for the grayling. " ** That's all very well," said the cynic ; " but if there is any rise to-day it will all be over before we can get to the water at three o'clock." We reached the river about that time, when the last *'rw^" had already happened, for we saw no more. Notwithstanding, I did manage to bag a nice brace of grayling with the **Iron Blue," and was satisfied. Saturday f Oct. igth, was glorious, a day to be re- membered, for it possessed all the essential qualities of a perfect grayling day. We started for the river filled with the hope, amounting almost to certainty, of soon having our baskets weighed down by the big grayling only wait- ing to be caught. Alas ! when we got to the river, what had happened to it ? It was one field of floating greenery ; hundreds and hundreds of tons of newly-cut weeds, and old, suspended weeds had been let down upon us from some demon holds above ; on, on they came, an end- GRA YLING. 105 less procession as far as the eye could reach, the water hardly visible beneath its floating burthen. To add to the chagrin we naturally felt, the fish were rising freely amongst the weeds, but it was quite impossible to cast over them. By an early train we expected two doughty cham- pions, the Major and *'Red Spinner" (probably so called on account of the sanguine yarns he spins). We had vainly thought to open their eyes and water their mouths by the baskets we youngsters had hoped to have exhibited. It was a galling disappointment; happily, by lunch time the demons above had done their worst, the weeds began to thin out, and by the time the first champion, *'R. S.," arrived, our river was as innocent of weeds as if it had never borne any ; and, better still, for a short time, in a well-known corner, called " the Shoulder of Mutton," the rise was fast and furious. We gave up this place of honour to our distinguished visitor. The Major did not arrive till two or three hours later, almost too late for the feast. Our Professor, the most unselfish of men, did not fish, but he accom- panied me down stream, where, in the many grayling beds below, that we knew well, we expected to find an equal uprising of the fish to rejoice in bright sun- shine and swallow insects, after the heavy canopy of green weeds which had for so many hours obscured their daylight. We were not so favoured ; we saw only three rising fish the whole length of our tether. I had captured one i^ lb. grayling, and hooked and lost another, and, with my rod, the Professor brought a third into the basket. io6 SV ME A DO IV AND STREAM. We returned rather disconsolately to where we had left **Red Spmner." There he was, still plying at **the Shoulder of Mutton," and the Major was not far off. Between two and four o'clock the **R. S." had bagged five brace of splendid grayling, without moving from the enchanted corner. The Major, who only arrived on the scene when the rise for the day was almost over, bagged three brace of the biggest sort. Of course, I allow something for skill to these accomplished craftsmen, but in this particular instance I attribute quite as much to luck. I have the presumption to think that had the "A. A." taken " Red Spinner's " place, and sent him down to those other good places, our baskets would have been more equally weighted. I have constantly averred that there is pleasure in fishing, quite apart from catching fish, and not the least of it is to see that your friends have, by luck or skill, been satisfied with their after- noon's work. We dine at our old farmhouse in a primitive fashion, but luxuriously enough, and then we sit round a bright logwood fire, which our Professor allows no one to touch but himself, for he has a notion that no one but he can place the logs in the exact position they ought to be in. The ' ' Spinner " spins many a yarn of his early and varied experiences, and the Professor causes mirth by his drolleries and his self-assertive, dogmatic, and pessimistic views about the country in general, which he vows is going rapidly to the dogs. He imports his own whisky in cask direct from the distillery of Glen- livet, and maintains that he makes a clear profit of twenty per cent, on every glass he drinks. On being GRA YUNG. 107 asked to explain how the consumption of whisky, which costs him money, could possibly be a source of revenue to him, " I will tell you," says he. **Man must have whisky, must he not ? Very well. I pay 17^. dd, a gallon for mine, and you cannot get similar stuff for less than 2\s. or more. There is a difference of twenty per cent, gained by me by buying direct from the distillery. Isn't it as plain as a pike- staff that I make a profit by every glass I drink?" We were at the time partaking of his old over- proof **Glenlivet," and we found it good and com- mendable. As moderate men, we partook of this insinuating drink quite sparingly and hot, with a half-inch square of the thin outer rind of a lemon, which gives it that pleasant aroma. We were obliged to admit that his logic was unassailable on the assumption that his major premise was sound, viz., that every man must take whisky ! A proposition capable of being questioned. At breakfast our Professor is great on the question of sugar. "Here," says he, "you go and import a lot of bounty-fed beetroot rubbish which has no sweetening power in it, and leave our colonies and sugar merchants to starve. Go into any shop you like, and ask for West Indian cane-grown sugar, and you'll find none from one end of the town to the other — they don't keep it. No, they will try and palm off on you that nasty gritty German stuff, be- cause it can be bought for less money, and they make a fraction more profit ; and yet we call ourselves patriotic. No ! thank you, none of that turnipy stuff io8 BV MEADOW AND STREAM. for me ! Here, try some of this honest, old-fashioned brown Demerara, and insist on getting it wherever you go, that's the way to get that dyspeptic foreign stuff out of this market — I was only able to get this by a fluke." And so at dinner our genial cynic is equally hot on pepper. " Please pass the white pepper." ** White pepper!" he exclaims; "my dear sir, there's no such thing as white pepper in existence ; that is simply a vile concoction of hellebore and poisonous chemicals manufactured at a fourth of the cost of the true pepper, which of course is black. Never catch me using white pepper ! " No man can discourse more eloquently and con- vincingly on flies, imitation and natural. He knows them all, and you cannot deceive him by the shadow of a shade of tint on hackle, or wing, or body. Sunday, Oct. 20th, was a very pleasant day, a day of rest for the grayling. We took our walks abroad across the meadows and through the woods, now delightfully *'hung with tapestry of all glorious colours," acorns, brown and yellow, strewed in pro- fusion under the wide-spreading oaks ; the copper- leaved guelder rose, with its bunches of red berries, as pretty now as it is in its summer dress of white roses ; but what has become of the swallows ? They have departed from this neighbourhood. Starlings have taken their places in groups of hundreds ; flocks of wild geese are seen far away up in the sky, sailing southwards in triangular form, like a floating pyramid. Small birds twittered in the hedgerows. Our country walk was very pleasant. The grayling in the river GRAYLING. 109 enjoyed their short reprieve, and ** rose " with freedom in blessed ignorance of the fate awaiting many of them to-morrow. Big hip berries were plentiful in the hedgerows, but haws were scarce, and did not promise much bird food for the winter. Monday, Oct. 2\st. — Another glorious morning, precursor of another ideal day for the grayling. Wind, very slight, north-easterly, but hardly perceptible ; sky, heavy and leaden, admitting of no sunshine, but refraining from sending down rain We, piscators, were out early, but our Professor, while making allow- ance for our juvenile enthusiasm, assured us there would be no rise till about twelve o'clock, and that the fish would all be down by four. ** Red Spinner," with a too scrupulous conscience, insisted on keeping up his acquaintance with "the Shoulder of Mutton" region, which he had so punished and depleted on Saturday. He might, with his extraordinary skill, have done much better lower down, but he did not do badly, having at the end of the day accounted for several brace of fine grayling, besides several large trout, which had to be returned. The Major became a rover, but clung to the most promising spots, and easily captured seven brace of lovely grayling, two only of which w^eighed less than I lb. — most of them nearer 2 lb. — besides two brace of fine trout returned. The '*A. A." fished with his usual skill and his usual want of luck, but he finished up with two and a half brace of really big grayling — one of them 2 lb. , and the others of quite passable and respectable dimensions. ixo BV MEADOW AND STREAM. After a careful examination of the water, and catching innumerable floating flies, in the morning, the Professor came to the decision that the Iron Blue was the proper imitation to tempt the grayling. ** Red Spinner" began and ended his successful out- ing with a Red Tag, an imitation which has no proto- type on land or water, but which seemed to have a natural attraction for the grayling quite remarkable. I have seen them repeatedly allow the true natural Iron Blue to pass over their noses, and go for the Red Tag — to their destruction. The Major, I think, varied his flies, but did best with Iron Blue. I placed myself under the wing of our good Pro- fessor, who rendered me all sorts of kindnesses, not only selecting my flies, but tying them on for me — for my eyes are not what they were. He kept a sharp • look-out for rises. ''There you are, just over that clump of weeds. Now cast a couple of yards above him, and let your fly float down over him, and you'll have that fish to a dead certainty. Ah, you've got him ! Hold on, keep the point of your rod up, and don't let him get below you. Oh ! he's off"; I told you so, you held him too tight, you should have given him more line, and not let him get below you. "Why, man, he was a two-pounder, and no gut could stand the strain of pulling hard against fish and stream ; never mind, better luck next time." That important question of casting over a fish is one upon which these experts differ. Our Professor waxes quite wroth if you put your fly just over, or a few inches above your fish. GRAYLING. iii ** There now, my good sir, you've put him down at once. You should have cast two yards above him." Now, that other great authority, the **R. S.," dis- tinctly lays it down that you must make your cast just from six inches to one foot above your fish, and becomes at you straight. If you cast farther away, you give him time to think and examine and suspect, and by the time you are on him he has found you out and gives you the cold shoulder. The Major is silent on this question, he only smiles and takes his own course, which rarely fails to bring in the unfortunate unsuspecting victim over which he casts. Thus we talked and fished, and dis- cussed everything all through the brief time of our outing. It was a time of mirth and pleasure, and was over all too soon. CHAPTER XI. " LITTLE RIVERS." What is the test of a river ? ** The power to drown a man," says the author of "LornaDoone" — A lovely afternoon— The *' milking bridge " — A vision — May-fly fishing in the olden time — A rambling review of ** Little Rivers," a charming book by Mr. Van Dyke— Do hornets bite ? ** The west wind wafts the scent of May Adown the verdant valleys ; The friendly sun with tempered ray Peers forth from cloudy alleys ; And in his gleam the duns and browns In joy of life are winging, While I, afar from noisy towns, Go forth to angle singing." Lyra Piscatoria by Cotswold Isys. SJHO does not love little rivers ? Breathes there the angler with soul so dead within him that he never to himself hath said, ** I love to wander and linger on the banks of a pretty stream, even if it fails to yield to me its store of trout and grayling at my bidding ? " I envy not the spirit of the man, angler though he calls himself, who can sit hour after hour on his basket, his eye so Q O O ''LITTLE RIVERS." 113 intently watching his float that he can find no time to gaze around him, or listen to " The small birds warbling to their paramours." **But what is the test of a river?" asks the author of ** Lorna Doone." ** The power to drown a man," replies the river darkly. ** But rudeness is not argu- ment. Rather shall we say that the power to work a good undershot wheel without being dammed up all night, is a fair certificate of Riverhood." I, indeed, have been a lover of little streams ever since I can remember. None of them without the power, if occasion offered, " to drown a man." When I was young (ah, woful when !) by many a pretty stream did I fish and wander, but one bright day stands out from all others in my memory. A lovely afternoon, in the leafy month of June, I strolled down, across the daisy-decked meadows, to as sweet a little river as ever was seen. I began to fish at the Old Stone Bridge, hard by a dilapidated paper mill. Down that stream I wandered, casting my flies rapidly as I hurried on, not much minding whether a fish came at me or not, till a mile down I came to **the Milking Bridge," a picturesque but shaky old wooden, one-armed structure, which spanned the river where it runs deep and slow ; here it was that I set to work in earnest, for the May-fly was '*up," and the trout were rising splendidly. Now I cast carefully and with the greatest precision, and soon hooked and landed a fine trout. I was doubly trium- phant ; firstly, because it was my first May-fly capture ; and, lastly, because I had seen a vision on I 114 ^y MEADOW AND STREAM. that dear old bridge. A pretty maiden stood there ; she leaned against the wooden rail, and watched me with a laughing eye. Clad all in white was she, a light pink sash encircled her waist, a moss rose nestled in her bosom, and in one hand she held a basket of wild flowers. She wore a saucy sailor's hat, and her bonny brown hair flowed from beneath it in wavy ringlets over her shoulders. It was, I assure you, a pretty picture. " Her looks as clear As morning roses freshly wash'd with dew. " We had met before, in truth we were old friends, and probably our meeting was not altogether an " un- designed coincidence." She clapped her hands, and her bright brown eyes sparkled with delight as she came down to examine my catch ; but when she saw me forcing the hook from the poor trout's mouth, and striking his head on the butt of my rod, she turned away with a shudder, and with a tear in her eye, and trembling lip, she cried, ** How can you be so cruel ? " I soothed her with the most specious reasons I could think of, for on this subject I am not quite orthodox. I remember reading of an argument of two hours' duration on this question of cruelty be- tween the Rev. John Brown (father of the author of *' Rab and his Friends,") and his attached friend the Rev. Dr. Ward law (an ardent fisherman). At last the doctor was driven to exclaim, ''Well! I cannot answer you, but fish I tfttist and shall l^"* That is, perhaps, the best argument that can be adduced, and is certainly decisive if not conclusive. '* LITTLE rivers:' 115 It was a calm and balmy evening ; the rooks over- head in the rookery just above were caw-cawing and feeding their young ; song birds were making melody in the hedgerows, now pink with wild roses, now milk white with May bloom ; the meadows were carpeted with daisies and gilded with cowslips, but- tercups, and daffodils ; great trout were flopping up in the river ; rabbits flitted across our path as we loitered on through the woods and by the side of the stream, no longer fishing, but chatting pleasantly of things past, present, and to come — ** It was the time of roses, We plucked them as we passed," till we came to the point where our roads diverged. Alas ! it is fifty years ago and more. In our saunter through the wood we had met with a young man and maiden, then in the heyday of youth and happiness — they had wandered into this lovely solitude of wood and river not to angle, but clearly to settle prelimi- naries, for they were married soon afterwards. They had a large family, and have long since passed into the shadowy land. One of their sons is now an eminent physician. As to the maiden of ** the Milking Bridge," she, too, was married long, long ago. She had many sons and daughters ; and alas ! alas ! she, too, has long since gone to the land of shadows. One of her sons, piscator natus^ is now one of the most expert among anglers, and is therefore probably not unknown to many of my angling friends. Surely this is a long digression from the book to which ii6 BV MEADOW AND STREAM. I am wishful to draw the attention of my readers. "Little Rivers," by Henry Van Dyke (D. Nutt), its very title sent me off into this garrulous reminiscence of a bygone time. I have no thought of reviewing it, that interesting work must be left to the critic, and I possess not the critical faculty. The work consists of eleven essays, and one has to read them to know what they are about ; it has no long chapter headings, out of which an artful critic could construct a slashing or a brilliant review without the trouble of perusal. I propose leisurely to read these essays one by one, and to cull therefrom such tit-bits as I think may in- terest or amuse my readers. As yet I have got no further than the title page. This is followed as a pre- lude by a little poem, " An Angler's Wish in Town," from which I take one verse for the sake of the last line : " Then weary is the street parade, And weary books, and weary trade ; I'm only wishing to go a-fishing ; For this the month of May was made." "Little Rivers" is the title of the first essay, in praise of rivers in general. " For real company and friendship, there is nothing outside of the animal king- dom that is comparable to a river." " It is by a river that I would choose to make love, and to revive old friendships, and to play with children, and to confess my faults, and to escape from vain, selfish desires, and to cleanse my mind from all the false and foolish things that mar the joy and peace of living. " Every river that flows is good. But those that we ''LITTLE RIVERS." 117 love most are always the ones that we have known best — the stream that ran before our father's door, the current on which we ventured our first boat or cast our first fly, the brook on whose bank we first picked the twin flower of young love." Here is an exquisite little bit which our author quotes from Charles Darwin, in a letter to his wife. " At last," says he, "I fell asleep on the grass, and awoke with a chorus of birds singing around me, and squirrels running up the tree, and some woodpeckers laughing, and it was as pleasant and rural a scene as ever^I saw; and I did not care one penny how any of the birds or beasts had been formed.''^ At the end of this chapter the author describes very fairly, but as I think too modestly, w^hat the book is. "You shall not be deceived in this book. It is nothing but a handful of rustic variations on the old tune of *■ Rest and be thankful,' a record of uncon- ventional travel, a pilgrim's scrip with a few bits of blue sky philosophy in it. There is, so far as I know, very little useful information, and absolutely no cri- ticism of the universe to be found in this volume, so if you are what Isaak Walton calls * a severe, sour- complexioned man,' you would better carry it back to the bookseller and get your money again, if he will give it to you, and go your way rejoicing after your own melancholy fashion." The next essay is called ** A Leaf of Spearmint." " The clear, spicy, unmistakable smell of a bed of spearmint, that is the bed whereon memory loves to lie and dream. " A leaf of mint plucked from between the pebbles, and rolled between his fingers, wafts him xi8 BV MEADOW AND STREAM. i backwards to a stream that runs through the country of "Auld Lang Syne," and fills his creel with the recollections of a boy and a rod. This delightful chapter is devoted mostly to his boyish exploits in the Catskills, the Adirondachs, and the Green Mountains, in the midst of which he lived and moved, and had his summer holidays ; it tells how he caught his first trout, " longer than a new lead pencil," and another of less tremendous dimensions ; how he met, and fell in love with, and adored the beautiful Annie V. ; how that wonderful brace of trout was cooked for breakfast next morning ; how he saw " the adored of his soul " sitting at the other end of the room and faring **on the common food of mortals !" and shall she not feast on his dainties ? The waiter is sent for a hot plate, on which the largest trout is placed, and sent to the lovely Miss Annie V., and how his heart went pit-a-pat the while, repenting his rashness, doubt- ing whether she would deign to accept his chivalrous offering or not. She seems to accept rather indiffer- ently he thinks, and his heart sinks within him ; but for an instant the corner of her eye catches the boy's sidelong glance, she nods perceptibly, and he is happy. Time passed, and all-day pic-nics gave place to a two weeks' camping trip, and wanderings with his father (now promoted to the title of " Governor "), amid many wild and rugged scenes in the Adiron- dachs and elsewhere bring us to the end of the chapter. The next chapter is called " Ampersand," and gives a pleasant account of wanderings up and down this mountain, which stands in the heart of the Adirondach *' LITTLE rivers:' 119 country. I find little in it that I can steal, unless I steal the whole ; but here is a quotable bit : "Send your fly in under those cedar branches where the water swirls around by the old log. Now draw it towards the foam ; there is a sudden gleam of dull gold in the white water. You strike too soon. Your line comes back to you. In a current like this a fish will almost always hook himself. Try it again. This time he takes the fly fairly, and you have him. It is a good fish, and he makes the slender rod bend to the strain. He sulks for a moment, as if uncertain what to do, and then with a rush darts into the swiftest part of the current. You can never stop him there. Let him go. Keep just enough pressure on him to hold the hook firm, and follow his lordship down the stream as if he were a salmon ; he slides over a little fall, glancing through the foam, and swings around in the next pool. Here you can manage him more easily ; and after a few minutes' brilliant play, a few mad dashes for the current, he comes to the net, and your skilful guide lands him with a quick steady sweep of the arm. The scales credit him with an even pound, and a better fish than this you will hardly take here in midsummer." A pretty description of an every-day occurrence. Our southern anglers will smile at so much fuss over a I lb. trout. He might have been 3 lb. at least to justify so much type and paper. Of course size depends on locality, a i lb. trout in a mountain stream is com- paratively as good as a three-pounder in the Test. By the way, one wonders what kind of hornets those may be which he met with on the Ampersand. I20 BY MEADOIV AND STREAM. " Our trail led us at first through a natural meadow, overgrown with waist-high grass, and very spongy to the tread. Hornet haunted also was this meadow, and therefore no place for idle dalliance or unwary digression, for the bite of the hornet is one of the saddest and most humiliating surprises of this mortal life." Do hornets bite ? Our hornet ( Vespa crabrd) is a stinging insect, a sort of giant compared with Vespa vulgaris, the common wasp. It builds in decaying hollow trees, eaves of old barns, etc.; but this Ameri- can meadow-haunting, biting hornet is new to me.^ The next essay transports us to Scotland and the Hebrides, under the title of " A Handful of Heather." Our author has a fancy for reading his fiction in the place where it was grown. Thus ^ * Romola " accom- panies him to Rome, " The Heart of Midlothian " to Edinburgh, and "Lorna Doone" to Exmoor ; but, says he : ** I never expect to pass pleasanter days than those I spent with *A Princess of Thule' among the Hebrides ; for then ... I was young . . . but even youth itself was not to be compared with the exquisite felicity of being deeply and desperately in love with Sheila, the clear-eyed heroine of the charming book. In this innocent passion my grey-haired comrades, the Chancellor of the University of New York and my father were ardent but generous rivals. . . . According to Tennyson, the most important element in a young knight's education is *the maiden passion for a 1 See " Fresh Woods and Pastures New." Letter XV. "An Evening with the Hornets.'* ''LITTLE rivers:* i2t maiden. ' Surely the safest form in which the course may be taken is by falling in love with a girl in a book. " And so these lovers three sailed among the Western Islands. It was Sheila's dark blue dress and sailor hat they looked for in the streets of Stornoway. It was Sheila's soft sing-song Highland speech they heard on the balcony of the little inn. It was Sheila's low sweet brow, and long black eyelashes, and tender blue eyes that they saw as they loitered over the moorland. Were not these the peat cutters that Sheila loved to help ? Was not this the spot where Sheila picked the bunch of wild flowers and gave it to her lover ? In fact, Sheila is the most prominent person in this essay, and it is a pretty testimony to the charm of ** A Princess of Thule " that it should have taken such a hold upon the affections of these three staid Ameri- can clergymen. Here is a description of our author's first salmon : ** The white water came singing down out of the moorland into a rocky valley, and there was a merry curl of air on the pools, and the silver fish were leap- ing from the stream. The gillie handled the big rod as if it had been a fairy's wand, but to me it was like a giant's spear. It was a different affair from fishing with five ounces of split bamboo on a Long Island trout pond. The monstrous fly, like an awkward bird, went fluttering everywhere but in the right direction. It was the mercy of Providence that pre- served the gillie's life ; but he was very patient and forbearing, leading me on from one pool to another, as I spoiled the water, and snatched the hook out of the very mouth of rising fish, until at last we found a 122 BY MEADOW AND STREAM. salmon that knew even less about the niceties of salmon fishing than I did. He seized the fly firmly before I could pull it away ; and then in a moment I found myself attached to a creature with the strength of a whale and the agility of a flying fish. He led me rushing up and down the bank like a madman. He played on the surface like a whirlwind, and sulked at the bottom like a stone. He meditated, with ominous delay, in the middle of the deepest pool, and then, darting across the river, flung himself clean out of the water and landed far up on the green turf of the opposite shore. My heart melted like a snowflake in the sea, and I thought that I had lost him for ever. But he rolled quietly back into the water, with the hook still set in his nose. A few minutes afterwards I brought him within reach of the gafl", and my first salmon was glittering in the grass beside me. Then I remembered that Wm. Black had described this very fish in * The Princess of Thule. ' I pulled the book from my pocket, and, lighting a pipe, sat down to read that chapter over again. . . . His salmon, after leaping across the strram, got away, whereas mine was safe." He spent a pleasant fortnight at Melvich, where he found " comfortaible lodgin' wi' the Weedow Macphairson." When the widow, by subtle cross- examination, discovered that he was a minister, she brought out the big Bible and a bottle of old Glenlivet, and asked him to conduct evening worship, and to ** tak a glass o' speerits to guard against takkin' cauld." Now we come to a delightful chapter called * * The Restigouche from a Horse-boat." The names of the ''LITTLE rivers:* 123 chief tributaries of the Restigouche are curious ; there is the headstrong Metapedia, the crooked Upsalquitch, the Patapedia, and the Quatamakedgwick. These are words at which the tongue balks, but you soon get used to them. Space forbids my telling what a Horse-boat is like, or to quote another splendid salmon fight, but I must quote our author's views on the subject oi cruelty. His companion, Favonius, being ill one summer, had been ordered by his physician to go into the woods, but on no account to go without fresh meat ; so he set out into the wild country north of Georgian Bay, taking a live sheep with him, to be sure of fresh meat. But the innocent little beast would follow him about like a dog, it ate out of his hand, and rubbed its woolly head against his leggings, and he carried it in his arms over rough places. To his dismay he found that he was beginning to love it for its own sake, and not for the world would he have alluded to mutton in its presence, and so the little animal continued to lick the hand which was never *' raised to shed his blood." On his return to civilization he parted with the sheep with sincere regret, and the consciousness that he had]^humoured his affection at the expense of his digestion. ** There is a great difference in animals in this respect. I certainly never heard of anyone falling in love with a salmon in such a way as to regard it as a fond companion. And this may be one reason why no sensible person who has tried fishing has ever been able to see any cruelty in it. Suppose the fish is not caught by an angler, what is his alternative fate ? He 124 BV MEADOW AND STREAM. will either perish miserably in the struggles of the crowded net or die of old age and starvation, like the long, lean stragglers which are sometimes found in the shallow pools, or be devoured by a larger fish, or torn to pieces by a seal or an otter. Compared with any of these miserable deaths, the fate of a salmon that is hooked in a clear stream, and, after a glorious fight, receives the happy despatch at the moment when he touches the shore, is a sort of Euthanasia. And, since fish was made to be man's food, the angler who brings him to the table of destiny in the cleanest, quickest, kindest way is, in fact, his benefactor. " A specious bit of irony, which was evidently written with his tongue in his cheek. The next essay is called *'Apenrosen and Goat's Milk," and is devoted mostly to mountain climbing. I must refrain from large quotation — tempting though it be — but here are a couple of the inscriptions which he found on the heavy crosses with pointed roofs which lined the road to the Gross- Venediger ; crosses which mark the place where a human life has been lost, or where some poor peasant has been delivered from some great peril. They tell of the danger that lurks on the steep slopes of grass, where the mowers had to go down with ropes round their waists ; and in the forests, where the great trees fall and crush men like flies. Some of the inscriptions are humorous enough. Here is one translated from the quaint German : "Here lies Elias Queer, Killed in his sixtieth year ; Scarce had he seen the light of day When a waggon wheel crushed his life away." *' LITTLE rivers:' 125 And there is another famous one, which says : " Here perished the honoured and virtuous maiden, G. V. This tablet was erected by her only son." ** Au Large " is the title of the next essay, a Cana- dian idyll, as charming as any of its predecessors. Then comes " Trout Fishing in the Traun," which I must not touch. The last is called " At the Sign of the Balsam Bough," about either of which if the reader wants to know anything let him buy the book. The volume closes, as it begins, with a charming little poem, entitled " The Woodnotes of the Veery." I confess myself ignorant of this bird, but I gather from the text that it is a native of New England. **0n the top of a small sumach, not thirty feet away from me, sat a veery. I could see the pointed spots upon his breast, the swelling of his white throat, and the sparkle of his eyes as he poured his whole heart into a long liquid chant, the clear notes rising and falling, echoing and interlacing in endless curves of sound, 'Orb within orb, intricate, wonderful.* Other bird songs can be translated into words — not this. There is no interpretation." Here is the last verse. " O far away, and far away the tawny thrush is singing, New England woods at close of day with that clear chant are ringing ; And when my light of life is low, and heart and flesh are weary, I fain would hear, before I go, the woodnotes of the veery." 126 BY MEADOW AND STREAM. And so I bid adieu to one of the most delightful books I have met with for many a day. A cheery, breezy book by a "blue sky" philosopher, which I trust many an angler, for his own delight, will possess himself of. I will only add that it is very prettily printed and bound, and illustrated with numerous beautiful reproductions from the author's own lens, for in his journey ings he always carried with him his photographic apparatus. Do American Hornets Bite? In reply to this question {see ante, p. 120) the author of " Little Rivers," Mr. Henry Van Dyke, of New York, has most kindly sent me the following very interesting remarks : **Now, concerning the bite of the hornet, you must know that it was an error — not typographical, but autographical. It has disappeared in the third edition, which is now printing. But this is the way I came to make it. In this country we have a hornet of uncommon size, and all dressed in black and white like a clergyman. His attack is so fierce and astounding that we boys used to say, and think, that he executed it with both ends at once — biting like a serpent and stinging like an adder. In the careless- ness of writing, I suppose this tradition of boyhood crept into my MS. "This winged adversary is so much more terrible than any other creature that flies, that the boys invented a special name for him, and called him, by way of distinction, the Homick, In England you ''LITTLE RIVERS." 127 have nothing so ferocious, and just at present it is the hope of all good Americans you never will. " Most certainly we do not want that American *' Hornick " here. Our own hornet is bad enough. If he does not bite, he knows how to sting most venomously ; but there is this to be said of him, that nothing but the gravest provocation will induce him to put forth the power that is in him. He knows that the loss of his sting is the loss of his life — hence he is sometimes regarded as a coward and a bully. Many a time have I had him come right straight at me with lightning flight, and, when within an inch of my nose, divert his course. Was this magnanimity or cowardice ? We used to think it was his way of saying "Go away, and let us alone, or you will catch it next time. " It was his way of barking without biting. Here is another poser for our friend ! Do American adders sting? Do American boys study their Bible ? **Dan shall be a serpent by the way, an adder in the path, that biteth the horse heels, so that his rider shall fall backward. " — Genesis^ chap. xlix. v. 17. Do American Adders Sting? On this question that accomplished angler and pleasant poet "Cotswold Isys" quotes Proverbs xxiii. 32 : "At the last it biteth like a serpent, and stingeth like an adder " — and so justifies Mr. Van Dyke and proves my charge against American boys to be un- founded. I blush in acknowledging my error. The quotation from Proverbs is one of great poetic beauty ; the fact remains, however, that adders do not sting, but bite with their poison-conveying fangs. CHAPTER XII. FOUR MEN IN A BOAT. A trip down the Wye— River unusually low — Seven hours to do twenty miles — Difficulties overcome — A cow in the water — A calf ditto — Lovely scenery — Election day at Hereford. E were four men in a boat ; our dog Rover was mad because we wouldn't have him along — we knew his tricks of old ; he was too fond of jumping out for a swim, and then jumping in to shake himself, which was inconvenient. We had to go down the Wye for twenty miles, a trip which seemed easy enough, and we expected to do it easily in four hours. We started early, as one of us had, but did not particularly wish, to catch a train at Hereford for London, and we counted on an hour or two to spare for a saunter about the old city before the train left. We were disappointed— our expectations were not realized. It took us just seven hours of about the hardest work we ever had in our lives to reach Hereford Bridge — a mile from the station. I say we, but I did FOUR MEN IN A BOAT. 129 little more than encourage the young ones to work ; I sat at mine ease on a cushioned seat and shouted. The river was exceptionally low, and our boat very heavy. At every bend in the river we came upon a shallow, or a rapid and a fall — there must have been forty of them — and at every one our youngsters had to take off their boots and stockings, and, unprovided with water shoes, go in with their naked feet on the rocky bed of the river, to haul and crunch the boat over the stones and sunken rocks. How they shouted and screamed as they strained every nerve, and the sharp stones grazed their feet ! Constantly they got into a wrong current which led nowhere, or to fearful rocks ahead ; then they had to hark back to find another road, for neither of them knew anything whatever of the treacherous ways of this lovely river ; but they were all young and vigorous, and they had to perform by sheer pluck and strength what could have been performed far more easily by anyone well acquainted with the trend of the currents. No serious accident befell them, but they had many narrow escapes from a ducking, as the boat shot suddenly off a shallow into a ten or perhaps twenty feet pool. Before starting we were cautioned to beware of certain ticklish places, such as Monington Rocks. Here the stream is divided by a small island. On the left the main force of it rushes in a deep and narrow current over a sheer fall of about six feet into a deep pool. That side we were told to avoid, and follow the milder currents on the right. Here the river was wide, running over gravel in little rippling streams, not one of which could carry the boat. So here we K I30 BV MEADOW AND STREAM. were in a nice fix. We must either tackle the fall and smash the boat to pieces, or get it somehow over these dribbling shallows for a distance of fifty yards at least ; and then there were innumerable rocks just showing their points, or partly hidden by the water. After getting over these fifty yards of gravel by terribly hard work, my oarsmen had to look out for these nasty rocks, and to steer the boat between them was even more arduous than scraping her over the shal- lows. It occupied quite an hour to get over this one of our forty impediments. Then we floated along merrily in deep water for a mile or two with few obstacles. At a ford there were two men with a team of horses and a cart. They offered us some cider and the loan of a horse to pull the boat along, but we did not take advantage of either offer. We were told at the next ford, about eight miles from Hereford, by the ferryman that we had only to keep always to the right, close under the bank, and we should have plain sailing all the way ; no more shal- lows to trouble us. We did keep to the right — there was no help for it — the strong current carried us down irresistibly right under some overhanging wil- lows, carrying away one of our sculls, and scratching our skulls all round. We got out of this trouble in time, caught up our floating scull — which was making rapid way for Hereford — and on again. There was a fellow lying lazily on the bank smoking; he had fastened his boat, and was taking his ease. We asked him if there were any more shallows between us and Hereford. ** Lots of 'em " was the only reply we got from him. FOUR MEN IN A BOAT. 131 We found his laconic reply quite true, but after many a struggle we reached our port safely, with no other mishap than a broken boat-hook and the points of the sculls in splinters. Our attention had been too completely taken up by the management of our unruly boat to admit of our taking much heed of the very lovely bits of scenery through which we passed. What a lovely picture a little yellow-painted cottage makes, nestling in green foliage, and overshadowed by giant elms just above the Scar Rocks ! These bare red rocks — pro- bably a hundred feet high, and surmounted by masses of green foliage — form a lovely boundary to the river, which flows in a graceful bend below. It was, after all, a very pleasant little trip. The boatmaster at Hereford, who knows every stone in the river, told us we ought to have gone to the left at Monington, and shot that six feet fall ! A most easy thing to do — so he said. I am rather glad we did not make the attempt. It would, perhaps, have been good for him, for we should have had a new boat to pay for, and maybe a doctor's bill. Had there been ten inches more water in the river, none of these troubles would have befallen us. The only little incident worth mention on the trip was this; — ^Just as we were passing along a deep stretch of water some cattle came helter-skelter down a steep, slippery bank to drink. In their scramble one of them — a cow — tumbled head foremost into the stream, and disappeared for some time, but her horns soon came up above water, then her head, and, swimming round, she managed to scramble up the 132 BV MEADOW AND STREAM. slippery bank ; it was quite amusing to watch her efforts, which were successful at last. Then a few yards below an unlucky calf tumbled in under an alder bush in a very deep hole. He, too, disappeared, but came up, and struggled hard for some minutes, repeatedly falling back into the deep water. At length he managed to get up on the slippery clay bank, and we thought he was safe, but his forefeet gave way, and somehow he got twisted round, and he again fell head foremost into the water — his hind feet still cling- ing in some way to the bank, whilst his head and half his body were under water. We thought he must soon be drowned, and we turned the boat round, and pulled up towards him in the hope of rendering him some kind of help, though he was in an almost unreachable place amongst the thick alder bushes ; fortunately, after a last strong struggle, he sank wholly into the water, and reappeared a little lower down, swimming vigorously to a shallow bank, up which he managed to climb with difficulty but with safety. Such little incidents as these must be of daily occur- rence on the banks of deep rivers, but it was novel and interesting to us to witness, though perhaps scarcely worth recording. The Wye is, indeed, a most interesting river in its whole length — from its rise in gloomy Plinlimmon to the point where it swells the current of ** the Severn Sea." Personally, I am only acquainted with the twenty miles I have just so jauntily floated down. It is a glorious river, passing' through rich lands and ever- changing scenery. But there is no good fly-fishing in it. We tried for trout, but we caught chub, that much- FOUR MEN IN A BOAT. 133 abused, disreputable fish ! Notwithstanding his bad character, he is a comely fish, and a half pound chub will fight pluckily, and give as much sport at times as a gentlemanly trout. There are some grayling to be had for the catching. The river swarms with what they call last-springs, or fingerlings, or young salmon, and there ought to be good salmon fishing in those long, deep reaches. Occasionally one hears and sees a big splash, and a lordly salmon throws a somersault clear out of the water ; but the sight is rare, for the river hereabouts is netted and poached in every con- ceivable way — and there is no one to prevent it. Even the riparian owners are constantly netting their water, and keep all they catch, big or little. Round about Hereford I suppose things are different, and some respect is paid to the written and unwritten laws of angling. Mr. Hatton, an occasional cor- respondent of the "F. G.," I think, has been in luck this season. I did not meet him, but I saw in his shop the model of a 40 lb. salmon, caught by him, with rod and line, some few miles below Hereford ; a trophy of which he may well be proud. We reached Hereford on Election Day. Our first sight on crossing the bridge was a curious one. We met a splendid carriage and pair, with a liveried coachman and footman and gaily bespangled horses, and inside, lolling with his head in one corner and his dirty feet and legs stretched aslant on the opposite delicate cushions, was a sweep with a black pipe in his month, as drunk and as dignified as any lord who ever rode in a carriage. He had been to the poll. His colours were true blue — cornflowers and ribbons. 134 ^y MEADOW AND STREAM. Other specimens of the opposite colour in an equally glorious state came under our notice as we hurried through the town to seek refreshment after our seven hours' toil on the river ; and as we all four drove out of the town in an open carriage on our return home (for our Londoner had missed his train), we were taken for **free and independents " returning from the poll, but we hoisted no colours, and, of course, were as sober as judges. CHISWICK PRESS r—CHARLKS WHITTINGHAM AND CO. TOOKS COURT, CHANCERY LANB, LONDON. ? ^