,('■ WL ■ ' *'C '* }%■■■ i*» P *t S • 'j?* y -'-. CA f < OCNlA 1 r ; £" res ^,''\ X' c ' u ^ in Staffordshire "»»«™que Views in Staffordshire Rnin-Svcd I / / , 2^ W a rasp ^-^ «~-A*- '«~* %^, ^ iue Views in Shropshire, by Calvert. 'Descriptionir it ; 34 fine plates, 4to, half morocco, 25/- 1831 s^^jL ^6c£T /w^*^-^ 1^ Views in Shropshire ; plates, 4to, halt , halt A ,830 , half [ »5/- e Views in Staffordshire ; plates, 4to •Sh 1830 e Views of Castles and County Houses in e; 4to, cloth, fz.\- _ 1885 6ue±yrfz / fa * ^ $^^fW^ X^^- 'kxfjM-ssyj. _ e#~ ItnrU a^^ fe y® w> u V *K * v ^, 5- PICTURESQUE VIEWS AND DESCRIPTION OF CITIES, TOWNS, CASTI.ES, MANSIONS, AND OTHER OBJECTS OF INTERESTING FEATURE, IN TAFF§11§MI1I 9 FROM ORIGINAL DESIGNS, TAKEN EXPRESSLY FOR THIS WORK, BY FREDERICK CALVERT; EINKSKAWI® ©M STEEL ®Y M\& a T. G8AE>©LWIFII : WITH HISTORICAL AND TOPOGRAPHICAL ILLUSTRATIONS, BY WILLIAM WEST. BIRMINGHAM : PUBLISHED BY WILLIAM EMANS, 170, BROMSGROVE STREET. 1834. \ 5 7 &17 INTRODUCTION. M # (AJ The intention of the following pages has been to present short sketches of the principal Towns, and most of the Mansions and Seats of the Nobility and Gentry, with which this delightful and interesting County is so abundantly graced. The Proprietor is aware that the Work might have been carried to a far greater extent, but he has been unwilling to increase the expenses of the Publication by elaborate details. References have been made to the ancient as well as to the modern structures, which perhaps exceed in this those of most other Counties ; Views of the most interesting will be found to be accurately delineated. In the concluding pages is given a general outline of the County, as regards its ancient name, its Topographical situation, Climate, and Soil, as well as an account of its Agriculture, Commerce and Population, Civil and Ecclesiastical establishments, &c. In reference to various places described, some Biographical sketches, and traits are inserted to eminent men, to whom the County has had the honour of giving birth. I 091 PICTUKESQUE VIEWS OF STAFFORDSHIRE LICHFIELD, Formerly called Litchfield, and said to be of Saxon origin, is an ancient and interesting city, and approached with feelings of veneration and respect, by all admirers of architectural taste, and of the literary character : it is topographically described, as containing three parishes, in Offlers hundred, Staffordshire, on a small branch of the Trent 16 miles N. of Birmingham, and 119, N. W. from London by Coventry, 67 from Manchester, 30 from Newcastle, 16 from Wolverhampton, 16 from Stafford, 9 from Walsal, 7 from Rugeley, and 7 from Tamworth. It is a city and county of itself, lying in the lap of a delightful and fertile valley surrounded by gentle eminences, and nearly in the centre of England. It consists of four principal streets, and several of a minor character ; but the majority of the houses are very handsome, and are occupied by persons of independent fortunes, whose good taste and love of quiet and retirement it would appear, has attached them and their families so long and so closely to this small city. The cathedral commands much interest, and the associations connected with it, considerable clas- sical taste. This circumstance and the picturesque beauty of the surrounding country, thickly studded, as it is, with the mansions and demesnes (which we shall hereafter describe) of the nobility and gentry, naturally renders this city the desirable place of residence for the class of persons already noticed. The city is divided by a small stream of water from the Close, which consists of the bishop's palace and houses principally belonging to the church. — The city contained in 1821 — 1028 houses and 4022 inhabitants, 2237 of whom were males and 2783 females — and although 509 B 2 PICTURESQUE VIEWS families were said to be employed in various trades and manufactures, they are not of a descrip- tion that can affect the health of the inhabitants, being principally, in addition to the usual handy craft trades, that of manufacturing carpets, horse rugs and sail cloth, coarse earthen-ware, tan- ning-leather, kc. Lichfield is said to have originated from the ruins of a Roman town, called Elocteum, about a mile distant ( Chesterjield Wall), at the crossing of the Ikenild and Watling- street roads. The cathedral it is said was first built at the early date of 300 — rebuilt in 766 by Offa, king of Mercia, who, in the latter part of the 8th century erected this city into an archbishopric, but it was soon after under the archbishop of Canterbury reduced to a bishopric. This see was re- moved to Chester in 1075 — and in 1102 to Coventry, but soon after was restored to Lichfield united with Coventry. The cathedral was again rebuilt in 1148, and considerably enlarged in 1296. There appears, however, a great contrariety of opinion respecting the origin of this city and its cathedral, which has occasioned learned controversies among antiquaries. Mr. Britton, that excellent antiquary and historian of Lichfield, and of all our principal cathedrals, observe* that " the name of Lichfield is of Saxon origin, but its Etymology has long been a subject of dispute. In the Saxon chronicle the word is written Licetjield ; in Bede, Lycetfelth and Licit- field ; subsequent writers call it Licethfield, Lichesfield, and Lychefield. By some authors it is derived from " leccian" to water; as being watered by the river; by others from " lose e^ a physician ; perhaps it may with more probability be supposed to have originated in the verb " licean" or " lician," to like, or be agreeable ; and therefore to signify pleasant field. But it has generally been considered as derived from lie, a dead body, and consequently as signifying u cadaverum campus," the field of dead bodies. This derivation is however conceived to be sup- ported by a tradition, which prevails very generally in Lichfield, that of the martyrdom of a great number of British Christians there, during the persecution under Dioclesian and Maximian : as this tradition has been noticed in every history of the cathedral, and by some is adduced as the reason for the establishment of the see on the spot consecrated by an event of such religious im- portance, it cannot with propriety be neglected in this place. The substance of it is, that a thou- sand Christians, the disciples of St. Amphibalus, suffered martrydom in the time of that perse- cution, on the ground whereon Lichfield was afterwards built ; " whence the city retains the name of Lichfield or Cadaverum Campus, the field of dead bodies, and bears for its device rather ihan arms, an escutcheon, of landscape with many martyrs in it, several ways massacred." But as this device could not have been used in any authentic shape before the incorporation of the guild in 1387, it can add little weight to the tradition of a fact so very remote. Several writers of eminence are of opinion, that St. Amphibalus never existed ; that his name originated in a mistake made by Jeffrey of Monmouth, that the whole legend relating to him was fabricated after the time of that historian, and that " the first authentic mention of Lichfield occurs in Bede's Ecclesiastical History, where it is alluded to as the see of an Anglo-Saxon bishop, nearly four hundred years after the date ascribed to the martyrdom of the disciples of Amphibalus.'* Dr. Stukely derives the Etymology of the name of this city from Lich, a Saxon word, signifying a morass, and which not only appears to correspond with the term '■' Cadaverum Campus,'" but also agrees with the name and site of Lichfield. In consulting authorities, it appears, that during the war between Charles I. and his parliament, this city was several times taken and retaken ; OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 3 and during these unhappy disputes the cathedral was garrisoned by royal troops, ana suuered materially. Lord Brook and Sir John Gell, in March, 1643, the former was shot through the eye, by a o-entleman of the Dyott family, and the spot where he fell is now distinguished by a pavement of white pebbles, and a marble tablet bearing an inscription commemorating the event. During these unhappy disputes the cathedral suffered very considerable damage, not orrfy from the fire of the batteries and musketry, but also from the rapacity of the republican soldiers. Immedi- ately after the restoration, Dr. Hackett was appointed to this see ; and he the very morning after his arrival, set about cleaning and repairing his episcopal church ; and by his own large contributions, and the subscriptions he obtained from the neighbouring gentry, was soon enabled to restore this noble pile to its former splendour ; he also repaired the palace. 1 ' The bust in the east aisle of the cathedral of Dr. Samuel Johnson, simply inscribed thus : " as* a tribute of respect to the memory of a man of extensive learning, a distinguished moral writer, and a sincere Christian," is strictly appropriate, and as Mr. Britton truly remarks, u had all the admirers of Johnson been content with that moderate and justly merited praise, his weak- nesses would never have been brought into that public notoriety, which makes the present gene- ration hesitate to rank him with the truly great. In early life Johnson attempted to establish a school at Lichfield, for preparing gentlemen for the universities. Of his three pupils David Garrick was one, and, after a short probation the master and scholar migrated together to the metropolis in search of more congenial pursuits. This journey ultimately led the way to fame and fortune to the latter, and literary fame to the former : their friendship was only terminated by death. Mrs. Garrick erected a cenotaph, after a design by James Wyatt, to her husband, near that of Dr. Johnson with a bust by Westmacott. There is also a handsome monument executed by Mr. Bacon Jun. in 1818, by request of Miss Anna Seward (who died at the age of 66 in 1809) to the respective memories of her father, mother and sister : a female figure (with a harp hanging on a willow) representing filial piety, weeping over a tomb is well executed ; the conclusion of the inscription written by Sir Walter Scott is as follows, " Honour'd, belov'd, and mourn'd, here Seward lies ; Her worth, her warmth of heart, our sorrows say, Go seek her genius in her living lay." The church is walled in like a castle, and stands so high as to be seen at the distance of many miles. Its length is 411 feet, and breadth 153 ; from the centre rises a spire 256 feet high, and two towers which rising from the west front terminates also into, and forming pyramidal spires : the beauty of its proportion is hardly to be paralleled in England. The chancel is paved with alabaster, and Connel coal, in imitation of black and white marble. One of the windows is fitted up with very handsome stained glass, purchased by the dean and chapter from a ruined abbey in France, and the north door is extremely rich in sculpture. In 1789 this church underwent a thorough repair ; behind the altar piece is an elegant stone screen, which divides it from St. Mary's chapel. In the inside of the dome are some neat marble monuments, particularly two near the south entrance, to the memory of Dr. Johnson, (that Hercules in lite- 4 PICTURESQUE VIEWS rature), and David Garrick, both natives of this place : another in the north aisle to lady Mary Wortly Montague, another to Anna Seward ; but the most beautiful monument here is that of the two grandaughters of dean Woodhouse, by Chantry, which are models of taste and genius. There belong to this cathedral, a bishop, dean, precentor, chancellor, treasurer, four archdeacons, (of Coventry, Stafford, Shropshire, and Derby,) and twenty-seven prebendaries, beside five priest vicars, seven lay clerks or singing men, choristers and inferior officers. There are three other churches in Lichfield, one of which St. Michael's, has a church yard containing six or seven acres. On the site of its ancient castle (where Richard II. was confined on his way to London) now stands a handsome building, erected by Andrew Newton Esq., and well endowed for clergy- men's widows and unmarried daughters. At the S. E. end of the city is a college priory, or hospital of St. John the Baptist, for a master and poor brethren. Here is also a new theatre. The guildhall has a very neat and elegant appearance, the top being ornamented with the city arms carved in stone, and under it is the goal. The market house is neat. Lichfield, as we have before remarked, is a county of itself, and contains a jurisdiction extending about twelve miles in compass ; it has the power of holding assizes, and determining cases of life and death. It is governed by two bailiffs (chosen yearly out of twenty-four burgesses), a recorder, a sheriff, a steward, and other officers. Lichfield is famous for its ale, — the sale of which is consi- derable and lucrative : it has sent two members to parliament since 33rd Edward I. the right of election being in the bailiffs, magistrates, freeholders of forty shillings a year, the holders of burgage tenures, and in such freemen as are enrolled and pay scot and lot. The number of votes is about 620. This city gives title of earl to the family of Lee ; it has a good free-school, founded by Edward VI., at which Dr. Johnson, Addison, Ashmole, Woolaston and Garrick received the rudiments of grammatical instruction. It has also an English school. The mar- kets are on Tuesday and Friday — fairs the three first Thursdays after twelfth-day, Ash Wed- nesday, May 1st and the Friday before St Simon and St. Jude. Lichfield by the means of the Wyerly and Essington canal, communicates with the Mersey, Dee, Ribble, Ouse, Darwent, Trent, Severn, H umber, Thames and Avon. The churches of St. Michael and St. Chadstow, are only chapels to St. Mary's and in the patronage of the vicar thereof. St. Mary's in Foro is a vicarage, value ten pounds, in the patronage of the chapter of Lichfield. In taking our leave of Lichfield associated and connected as it is with English literature, it is worthy of remark that it has not only been the natal spot of the eminent characters to which we have alluded, but also the chosen residence of Mr. and Mrs. Edgeworth, Dr. Darwin, and other eminent literary characters. I OP STAFFORDSHIRE. TRENTHAM HALL, STAFFORDSHIRE. THE MANSION OP GEORGE GRANVILLE LEVESON GOWER, MARQUIS OF STAFFORD, K. G. • This noble modern structure is said to resemble in its plan, the late edifice of Buckingham- house, in St. James's park, the interior of which was, doubtless, unexceptionable at the time, and furnished an excellent model. The exterior of Buckingham-house was not, however, gene- rally admired — Trentham hall, in this respect appeared vastly its superior, not only from the advantages of its site, but from being divested of that dull uniformity, and barrack-like appear- ance which characterised Buckingham house. This fine seat, situate four miles south from Newcastle-under-line, and five north-west from the town of Stone, has been erected (although termed modern) about a century — the grounds and beautiful picturesque scenery which surround it, were laid out by Brown, who, at that time, was considered a complete master of the art. The grounds originally possessed peculiar advantages and have been, with the mansion, at subsequent periods much improved. The late marquis made considerable and general alterations and improvements to this edifice, from chaste and elegant designs by the talented Holland, giving a new and imposing feature to the whole. This extensive demesne furnished with fine timber, abounds in charming prospects, exqui- sitely diversified with spacious sheets of water — and the river Trent, which here pursues its beautiful course, supplies these apparent lakes ; the banks of which are not only overshadowed with trees, but their umbrageous branches hang considerably over the water, and produce a picturesque effect. The fine lawn, the various clumps of shrubs — the distant hill — with Tree above tree, A woody theatre, produces a grand effect. The numerous and spacious apartments of this mansion are graced with an extensive and fine collection of paintings by ancient and modern masters — and when it is recollected that the principal gallery and collection belonging to the marquis — is at Cleveland house in London, some idea may be formed of the noble proprietor's patronage to the fine arts. - In addition to the alterations made in this mansion, as before alluded to, the present marquis has, on the western side, added an extensive drawing room, and, on the eastern, some excellent private apartments. 6 PICTURESQUE VIEWS As our work is of a pictorial character, we have exhibited a compressed list of many of the pictures which ornament the walls of the numerous apartments of this mansion, without pro- fessing any particular arrangement or order. It will be observed that many repetitions of the portraits of the same noble personages occur, and also similar paintings on other subjects, by different masters. In taking our leave of this subject and of Trentham-Hall we may apply the lines of Mr. Britton, prefixed to his " Catalogue Raisonne" of the paintings belonging to the noble Mar- quis, in the gallery at Cleveland-House. " Hail Painting hail ! whose imitative art, Transmits through speaking eyes the glowing heart." St. Peter, Young Fifer, Old man's head, Hare-skin man, Shee. Collins. Sir William Becchey. T. Barker. Portrait of Henry Charles, Earl of Surrey, . . Phillips. Portraits of Charlotte, Countess of Surrey, Lady Elizabeth, and Lord Francis Leveson Gower, - Phillips. The Virgin, Christ, and St. John, Ferrara. Portrait of Elizabeth, Marchioness of Staf- ford, . Mrs. Mee. Virgin and Child, Charles Wilkins, after Vandyck. Portrait of Mademoiselle de Charolois, sister of the present minister, Monsieur le Due, . . Nattier. Christ and Mary Magdalen Westall. Ruins at Rome . Paolo Panini. Moses in the Bullrushes, Ruins at Rome Bellisarius, Artist reading, Hannah and Samuel a copy of Rembrandt, at Cleveland- House. A Calm, . B. Hoppner. Home, ^ G. Jones. Jackson. Paolo Panini. OpiL Bone. Reinagle. The Circumcision, . Guido. Aurora. . , Howard. Descent from the Cross. Satyr and Nymph, . N. Poussin. Chevy Chace, . . Bird. St. Catherine, . Domenichino. Cottage girl, .. . Shee. View near Scarborough, . Hqffland. Female Artist, . Watson. Flowers . , Hewlett. Sea piece, . , Morland. A Sorceress, . . Tenters. Portrait of Edward Wortley Montague, Esq. Peters. Two Children, View at Lewisham, Fruitseller Vulture and Serpent, Landscape, Cobblers, St. Stephen, T. Barker. Nasmyth. Lecount. Northcote. B. Barker. D. Guest. Annibal Carracci. Portrait of George Grenville, Earl Gower, Phillips. Girl's Head, . . Mrs. Hakewill. Portrait of John Grenville, Earl of Bath, Witting. Portrait of His Majesty, George IV. when Prince Regent, OF STAFFORDSHIRE. Portrait of Thomas, Earl of Arundel, Miss M. Mure. a copy from the Picture by Vandyck\at Cleve- land-House, from the OrlearCs Collection. Landscape . . Miss Palmer. Portrait of Lady Jane Leveson Gower, Portrait of Jane, Countess of Bath, William Wissing. Py ramus and Thisbe, Wright of Derby. Cast of Lord Chancellor Thurlow, MissAndras. A Mosaic of Florentine marbles. Portrait of Caroline, Countess of Carlisle, Romney. Moonlight, . . Hoffiand. Portrait of Cromwell, Earl of Essex, Holbein. Ditto the Elector Palestine. Ditto Lord Chancellor Ellesmere. Ditto Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, Girolama da Trevisa. A Consistory, . . Tintoret. Portrait of Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Straf- ford. Portrait of Christiern, Duke of Brunswick. Ditto Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, the parliament general. Portrait of Elizabeth, the marchioness of Staf- ford, . Sir Thomas Lawrence. Landscape, . Caspar Poussin. Virgin, Christ, and St. John, Pietro Perrugino. Portrait of George Granville, Marquis of Staf- ford, . . Phillips. Landscape, . Caspar Poussin. Landscape, . Claude Lorraine. Holy family, Rottenhamer and D. Sagers. Marriage of St. Catherine, Venetian School. Christ crowned with thorns, L. Carracci. Two. — Murillo, and a Spanish painter, un- known, in one frame. Portrait of Charles James Fox, Jackson. Frederick, Earl of Carlisle, Jackson. Village Politicians, . Bird. Portrait of George Granville, Marquis of Staf- ford, . . Romney. A frame of Miniatures, containing portraits of the Earl of Bredalbane, Countess of Moray, &c. » Cast of William Pitt, . Miss Andras. A Picture in Florentine inlaid marbles, A Portrait of King Henry VIII, Holbein. A Frame of Miniatures, consisting of portraits of Gertrude, Duchess of Bedford ; Le- titia Countess Gower ; King Charles II. ; Mr. William Leveson Gower ; Miss Fazakerley, first wife of Granville, Marquis of Stafford, and Mrs. William Leveson Gower, Head of Titian . Tintoret. Portrait of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, Zucchero. Education of Cupid, . Titian. Portraits, . , Paul Veronese. St. Margaret, . School of Carracci. Portrait of Don Garcia, Sarmiento a" Acuna. Rape of Proserpine, Nicolo de V Abate. Portrait of Ratcliffe, Earl of Sussex. Head of Aretino, . Tintoret. Old Somerset House. Six Subjects after the antique, Pechux. Queen Charlotte, after Sir Joshua Reynolds. Granville, Marquis of Stafford, Romney. Portrait of Caroline, Countess of Carlisle, Angelica Kaufman. Portrait of Lady Anne Vernon ; Lady Geor- giana Eliot ; the Duchess of Beaufort ; the Countess of Harrowby ; and Vis- count Granville, . Romney. Lady Louisa Macdonald, Angelica Kaufftnan. Remorse, . . F. Rehburg. George Granville, Marquis of Stafford, Owen. The Standard, . . Cowper. Landscape, . . De Mame. PICTURESQUE VIEWS View on the Firth of Forth, Elizabeth Marchioness of Stafford. The Entombment of Christ, Hilton. Scale of Mountains, . Riddell. Landscape, . . Gainsborough. Portrait of Lord Chancellor Thurlow, Romney. Portrait of King George III. after Sir Joshua Reynolds. Vice Admiral Sir Richard Leveson, H. C. Vroom. A Sketch, . . Velasquez. Virgin and Child. A Burgomaster, . . Meerveldt. Portrait of a Venetian Senator, Titian. Landscape, . . G. Poussin. Portrait of Cardinal Barberini. Landscape, . . Coninck. Christ and the Disciples at Emmaus, Spagnoletto. A copy of the portrait of Mrs. Siddons by Sir Joshua Reynolds, on Worcester China. Landscape, . . Wynants. View of Nimeguen, Von Goyer. Portrait of Elizabeth, Marchioness of Stafford, Hoppner. Horse and Serpent, Ward. Venus and Cupids, . Coy pel. Landscape, . . Clennel. Angelica, . . Imperiala. View of Scheveling, Von Goyer. A Painting in imitation of Salvator Rosa, LinglebacJc. Caerphilly Castle, . Ibbotson. Portrait of Lady Elizabeth Belgrave, Gummow. I mitation of Salvator Rosa, LinglebacJc. Game, , . Reinagle. Sea Piece, . . Brooking. Portrait of Sir Beville Granville, Walker. Portrait of Frances, Countess of Mar, C. K. Sharp. William Cantrill. W. Williams. Rising. Miss Geddes. Miss M. Spilsbury. Spagnoletto. Millichap. A Subject after Titian, Dunrobin Castle, Children, Head, The Holiday Feast, Heraclitus, Peasant Boy, Saint and Angel. Sheep-folding, . . Starke. A School, . . Barney. Dance, . . after Titian. Portrait of Sir Archibald M'Donald, Craig. Landscape, . . Barrett. Landscape, . . Vincent. Landscape, . . Barrett. Landscape, . Cranmer. A Portrait Portrait of Devereux, Earl of Essex. Landscape, Sir George Beaumont. A Gate, Edinburgh, Runciman. Portrait of John Leveson, Marc Garrard. Portraits of King Charles II., King James II., and Princess Henrietta, Maria, Old Stone, after Vandyck. Portrait of Gertrude, Duchess of Bedford, Knapton. Evelyn, Duke of Kingston. Evelyn, Lady Gower. Portrait of Queen Anne. A Portrait. Portrait of Lady Margaret Beckford Serena, Romney. Portrait of Catherine Duchess of Rutland. Portraits of Mr. William Leveson Gower and sister, Mrs. Proby. A Young Man, . . Geunaro. View of Rhodes . . Meyer. Interior of a Kitchen . Pugin. Boys and Game, . . Heaphy. Landscape, . . Ducroz. Small Landscape, . Craig. OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 9 Weatherby Bridge, . Girton. Cauldron Linn, . Glover, Terni, . . Ducroz. Tivoli, . . Ducroz. Landscape . . Dewint. Catharine Lady Wyndham. John, Lord Gower, . Dahl. Jane, Countess of Rochester and Clarendon, Dahl. Mr. Bernard Granville. Mr. William Leveson Gower. John, Earl Gower, Knapton. John, Duke of Rutland, . Dahl. Catharine, Lady Gower, . Dahl. Portrait of Judge Dyer. Portrait of Lady Katharine Leveson, Cornelius Jansen. Queen Mary, . . Sir Peter Lehj. Sir John Leveson, Marc Gerrard. Lady Leigh of Stoneleigh, Cornelius Jansen. Old Man's Head, A Disciple of Rembrandt. Queen Henrietta Maria, Stone after Vandyke. Catherine, daughter of Mr. W. Leveson Gower. Cupid, . . Goupie. A Boy Piping, Gertrude Duchess of Bedford. Portrait of Elizabeth, Countess of Waldegrave, Lady Diana Beauclerk. Charlotte, Countess of Surrey, Lady Elizabeth and Lord Francis Leveson Gower, Edridge. Portrait of Robert Cecil, Earl of Salisbury, after Cornelius Jansen. Portraits of Granville, Marquess of Stafford, George Granville, Marquess of Stafford, Susan, Marchioness of Stafford, Lady Louisa M'Donald, Caroline, Countess of Carlisle, Lady Ann Vernon, Lady Georgina Eliot, and Charlotte Sophia, Duchess of Beaufort, Angelica Kauffman. Sir Peter Lely. Marc Gerrard. Porbus. Cornelius Jansen, Paul Veronese. John Varley. Ostade. Huett Villiers. Mary Queen of Scots. A Portrait, Queen Mary, The Due d'Alencon, A Portrait, Two Apostles, View in Watford, Village Politicians, Cows and Asses Heads, Louisa, Countess Gower. The Earl of Moray, Cornelius Jansen. Elizabeth, Countess Waldegrave, Gawin Hamilton. Jane, Countess of Rochester and Clarendon. Guido's Mother, . . Guido. A Portrait. Portrait of Lionello Spada. Anne, Countess of Jersey. View of Canterbury, . La Porte. Moonlight, . G. Arnold. View of Peterborough, La Porte. Ditto do. . . G. Wilson. Three Views of Trentham. Portrait of Sir Edward Wyndham. John, Lord Gower. Portrait of Queen Mary. Katherine, Lady Wyndham. The Countess of Gainsborough. Portrait of Dr. Johnson, Sir Joshua Reynolds. The Earl of Sandwich, Knapton. Holy Family, . Venetian School. View from the Trinita del Monte, Freerson. Portrait of Mr. Porter, . Hogarth. Portrait of Elizabeth, Marchioness of Stafford. Phillips. Head of St. Francis. Portrait of Viscount Granville, Downman. A Landscape and Figures, Elizabeth, Mar- chioness of Stafford, the figures by U. Bunbury. Athens, . . Casas 10 Ephesus, View of Trentham, Sheep-folding, Ithuriel, Holy Family, Landscape, PICTURESQUE VIEWS Casas. Wootton. Starke. Alstone. Rubens. Bochart. Hunting in Leicestershire, with Portraits of the Earl of Cardigan, and John, Earl Gower, . . Wootton. View of Heidelberg. Carnival at Venice . Tiepolo. N. B. There are several others by Watteau, others, besides some portraits not described. Carnival at Venice, . Tiepolo, The Holy Family, Venetian School John, Earl Gower. Portrait of Mrs. William Leveson Gower. Portrait of the Earl of Gainsborough. Mr. William Leveson Gower. Portrait of Katharine, Duchess of Rutland. Mary, Duchess of Rutland. John, Duke of Kingston. Portrait of Evelyn, Lady Gower Patel, Vandermulin, Wyoutz, Loudonio, and TITLES. George Granville Leveson Gower, Marquess of Stafford, Earl Gower, Viscount Trenth. ham, of Trentham, in the County of Stafford ; Baron Gower of Sittenham, in the County of York ; and a Baronet ; born January 9th, 1758 ; married September 4th, 1785, Elizabeth, Countess of Sutherland, and Baroness of Strathnaver, in her own right. Motto. " Frangas not Fleetes." Town Residence Cleveland Row. Seats Trentham, Staffordshire ; Dunrobin Castle, Sutherland; West-hill, Surrey. STAFFORD. Stafford, the county town of Staffordshire, is situate in Pirchill hundred, on the north bank of the Scro, at the distance of three miles from its junction with the Trent. It is about 12 miles north-west from Lichfield, 16 from Newcastle, 9 from Rugely, 7 from Stone, and 135 from London : it is a borough containing two parishes united. In 1821 it contained 991 and 5786 inhabitants, 2915 were males, and 2821 females; 712 families were employed in trade. The town is of considerable extent, containing several good streets and lanes, some of which are well paved. The houses in general are well built and covered with slate. The public buildings are well worthy of notice : the church (formerly collegiate) is of a cruciform character, and has an octagonal tower ; its interior consists of a nave, two side aisles, a transept, and a chancel of three aisles ; it also contains some very curious carvings and mouldings (both on its exterior and in its interior) a very antique fount, and several ancient and modern monuments. The other church, St. Chad's, is an old and decayed building, its architectural feature is of OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 11 the most ancient Saxon plan, assigning one half of the whole dimensions to the nave, one quarter to the tower, and the remainder to the chancel. The County Hall, in which the assizes are held twice a year, is nearly in the centre of the town ; it is a neat, spacious, and modern structure, containing numerous apartments well ar- ranged and laid out, for the purposes for which they were intended. There is also a quarter sessions, and the county court, which is held monthly : at the rear of the county hall, is a con- venient market place. The town has also a good hospital, a free grammar-school, two schools upon the national system, and several almshouses. It appears that, formerly, " in the suburbs, and upon the green, there were several free chapels, and hospitals. 11 It was an exempt juris- diction under a dean and thirteen prebendaries ; but the deanery house is converted into a school; Near the town is a new infirmary ; almost facing it is the county gaol : a lunatic asylum has recently been erected. The principal trade carried on here is in the manufacture of boots, shoes, and cutlery — and in the tanning of leather. The inns are on a good scale, and well con- ducted. The market is on Saturday. Fairs, February 14th, May 10th, June 27th, Septem- ber 16th, and October 2nd. The earliest mention of Stafford which can be relied on, is in 913, when it appears, accord- ing to the Saxon chronicles, that Ethelfleda, Countess of Mercia, built a castle here, but no traces of it remain ; another is said to have been built by William the Conqueror, which was shortly after demolished ; a third was erected — and continued to flourish until destroyed in the conflicts between the house of Stuart, and the parliament. A portion of the castle, termed the keep, still remains upon the summit of a hill, remarkable for its extreme regularity of form, and smoothness of ascent on every side. The keep consists of three apartments with fire-places, and a communication, by steps, to several loop holes. Formerly the town was surrounded by a wall, and had four gates. It is said to have derived its name from the river, being, in early times, forded with a staff; hence Stafford, which appears feasible — it being placed in a low situation. — Still, the air here is very salubrious, the town a very pleasant one, and the scenery that surrounds it very beautiful. Stafford at a very early period was a place of considerable importance, for, in Doomsday-book it is designated a city, containing eighteen burgesses, belonging to the king ; and it had twenty mansions of the Earl of Mercia. The charter of King John furnishes a record of its early privileges and immunities as a cor- poration. It is however, by a charter of Edward VI., governed by a mayor, recorder, ten al- dermen, twenty common councilmen — a town clerk, and two Serjeants at mace : it returns two members to parliament, and the number of its voters are about six hundred. The noble seats and mansions, within a few miles of Stafford, are not only numerous, but of peculiar interest, and of the first order ; they will be duly appreciated, noticed, and depicted in this work 12 PICTURESQUE VIEWS SHUGBOROUGH PARK, STAFFORDSHIRE. THE SEAT OF THOMAS WILLIAM ANSON, VISCOUNT ANSON. The manor of Shugborough was purchased in the reign of James I. by William Anson, Esq., and its noble mansion is, at the present period, the principal residence of that highly distin- guished family. George, Lord Anson, the celebrated admiral and circumnavigator was born here, and, after spending a long and useful life in the service of his country, retired to his seat at Moor Park, Herts ; where he expired suddenly in 1762. — At his demise his immense property devolved to his eld- est brother, Thomas Anson, Esq. of Shugborough ; he, immediately upon this vast accession of fortune, not only beautified and enlarged the family mansion, but spiritedly and tastefully en- tered into the grand project of improving the grounds, and embellishing the scenery of the sur- rounding country, of which more hereafter, for in reference to Lord Anson, while on this sub- ject, it may not be uninteresting to lay before our readers, the following biographical sketch of his lordship, as drawn by Mr. Stephen Jones. " George, Lord Anson, was the son of William Anson, Esq. of Shugborough, a very ancient and worthy family in Staffordshire, and was born in 1700. On the breaking out of the Spanish war, he was appointed to command a fleet of five ships destined to annoy the enemy in that dan- gerous and unfrequented sea which lies beyond America, and in that unexpected quarter to at- tack them with vigour. His departure being delayed some months beyond the proper season, he sailed about the middle of September, 1740 ; and, about the vernal equinox, in the most tem- pestuous weather, arrived in the latitude of cape Horn : he doubled that dangerous cape in 1741, after a bad passage of forty days, in which he lost two ships, and by the scurvy, four or five men in a day. He arrived off Juan Fernandez, in June, with only two ships, besides two attendants on the squadron, and three hundred and fifty men ; he left it in September, took some prizes, burnt Paita, and staid about the coast of America, till May, 1742. He then crossed the southern ocean, proceeding with the Centurion only, the other ships having been destroyed in August. Having refreshed his crew at Tinian, he sailed, in October, for China ; stayed there till the beginning of 1743 ; waited for the galleon at the Philippine islands, met her on the twentieth of June, and took her. Having sold the prize in China, he set sail for Eng- land in December, 1743, and, on the fifteenth of June, 1744, arrived at Spithead, having sailed, in a fog, through the midst of a French fleet, then cruizing in the channel. — In 1747, being then on board the Prince George of ninety guns, in company with Admiral Warren, and twelve ship« more, he intercepted, off cape Finisterre, a powerful fleet bound from France, to the east and west Indies, and, by his valour and conduct, again enriched himself and his officers, and OP STAFFORDSHIRE. 13 strengthened the British navy, by taking six Men-of-War and four East Indiamen, not one ot them escaping. The French admiral, M. Jonquiere, on presenting his sword to the conqueror, said, " Monsieur, vous avez vaincu Tlnvincible et la Gloire vous suit," pointing to the two ships so named. King George II. for his signal services, rewarded him with a peerage, by the title of lord Anson, baron of Soberton in Hants; he died suddenly at his seat at Moor Park, in Hertfordshire, June 6th 1762. His natural disposition was calm, cool, and steady: but it is reported, that our honest, undesigning seaman was frequently a dupe at play ; and it was wittily observed of him, that he had been round the world,* but never in it. George, Lord Anson in his voyage round the world in the Centurion, in the years 1740, 1, 2, 3, 4, not only created an extraordinary interest at the time, but his heroism was an event that will ever form a strong feature in the annals of our country. We therefore venture on the fol- lowing digression : Mr. Nicholls, in the annals of Mr. Bowyer's press, in alluding to that interest- ing M voyage, compiled from Lord Anson's own papers and materials by Richard Walter, M. A." makes the following remarks. — " This volume though commonly ascribed to Mr. Walter, whose name appeared in the title page, and who had taken in subscriptions, was the production of Benjamin Robins Esq. The public had, for some time, been in expectation of seeing an ac- count of the voyage, composed under his lordship's own inspection, for which purpose Mr. Wal- ter was employed as having been chaplain to the Centurion during the greatest part of the ex- pedition. Walter had accordingly almost finished his task, having brought it down to his own departure from Macoa for England ; when he proposed to print his work by subscription. It was thought proper, however, that an able judge should first revise and correct it, and Robins was appointed, when, upon examination, it was resolved that the whole should be written en- tirely by Robins; and what Walter had done, being taken almost verbatim from the journals, should serve as materials only. Hence the introduction entire, and many dissertations in the body of the book, were composed by Robins, without receiving the least hint from Walter's ma- nuscript ; and what he had thence transcribed, regarded chiefly the wind and the weather, the currents, courses, bearings, distances, offings, soundings, moorings, the qualities of theground they anchored on, and such particulars as generally fill up a sailor's account. No production of this kind ever met with a more favourable reception, four large impressions being sold off within a twelve- month ; it has been translated into most of the European languages, and it still supports its re- putation, having been repeatedly reprinted in various sizes. The French affect to call this chef d'osuvre in its way a romance ; and we must certainly give the writer credit for some of the things to the honour of his hero, which he would have us believe ; as he would almost persuade us, that the abilities of the commander were such, that we might fancy he planned the taking of the Acapulco ship before he left England: however, the account, from its grand divisions &c., is a masterpiece of composition, and certainly has not been equalled (except by Dr. Robertson's his- tories), in these enchanting particulars." The editor conceived that he knew the last survivor, who accompanied lord Anson in the Centurion, in the person of Mr. Keating, many years an apothecary upon Ludgate Hill, London, and brother to the eccentric bookseller and banker of that name, at Stratford upon Avon, but it appears in giving an account of the For- tescue family in a late history of Warwickshire, that " John Fortesque Esq. captain in the royal navy, (the oldest officer on the superannuated list) who died in the 87th year of his age in 1808, was supposed to be the last survivor who accompanied lord Anson in his celebrated voyage. 14 PICTURESQUE VIEWS Lord Anson in addition to the eminent services which he rendered to the country, had the honour of closing them, by safely conveying the late queen Charlotte to England, after a very perilous, rough and tedious passage, in September 1761, not one year before his death, he hav- ing died in June, 1762. In returning to the subject of this noble and splendid mansion ; it received the addition of a handsome portico a few years since, this admirable addition consists of eight fluted columns of the Ionic order ; and without destroying the chasteness of this fine structure, two noble apartments are added ; the first a drawing room of 46 feet in length by 28 in width, the second a saloon of 54 feet in length and 22 in width. Each side is supported by six fine columns of Scagliola : in fact, no expence has been spared to render this mansion one of the first order. Thomas Anson Esq. with a view to make it as chaste and classical as possible in its appearance invited James Stuart the architect, generally known by the appellation of Athenian Stuart, and author of the history of Athens, to Shugborough, where he erected a monument to the memory of Lord Anson. It is designated the " Triumphal Arch," and is executed after the model of Adrian's arch at Athens. This fine monument displays various emblems of naval victories, and the arch is sur- mounted by a colonnade, the centre of which is graced by a military trophy, and the sides, which are of white marble with busts of Lord and Lady Anson. The grounds are ornamented with several buildings of considerable taste, and a variety of statues ; among the latter is a beautiful and much admired group by Sheemaker, of two lovers gazing on a shepherd who is pointing to a tomb with the inscription " et in abcadia ego," conveying an idea to the youthful lovers, that no earthly state, however delightful the prospect may be, can avert the shafts of death. We may exclaim with the late Dr, De la Cour, who in his prospect of poetry, say 6 : In sculpture — here proportion learns to please, When ev'ry beauty swells by nice degrees ; Where in the chisel's seen the poet's pen, That Ales and polishes the works of men, Soften the rugged surface of the song, Yet turns the features regular and strong ; Commands the limbs in attitude to rise, And live and walk in the beholder's eyes. It has been truly remarked that the neighbouring scenery over the enchanting vale of Shu- £0 a W 5 > o w M Q E Q tn k < 2 o K as ¥ a* | Bji < CTi Vd, 2 4 < S, O 5 £ (0 a . OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 87 Mr. Pitt remarks that " this manor is not mentioned in Doomsday book, but the conqueror gave it to Erasmus, who held it till the reign of King Henry I., and then it being forfeited to the king by Enysan de Walton, who had killed two nuns and a priest, who had settled in a small oratory in this town, in honour of St. Wulfade, before murdered there, was given to Robert de Stafford, who, out of great devotion to that saint, founded a priory for canons regular of St. Augustine, and, after him their family made it their burial place." Mr. Pitt further observes that, " about half a mile from the town, a good stone bridge leads to the pleasant village of Walton, whence Enysan de Walton, before mentioned, took his name. This Enysan (says Pen- nant) was the true re-founder of the priory at Stone ; but the Staffords, who were his superiors assumed the honour of this new foundation. The church of the priory contained many magni- ficent tombs of this great family at the period of the dissolution, at which time they were re- moved for safety to the Augustines of Stafford, but were afterwards destroyed with that place." The town of Stone in 1821, contained five hundred and thirty-two houses, and two thousand eight hundred and fifty-five inhabitants, many of whom, like those of Stafford, are employed in the manufacture of shoes : at a short distance from the town is a picturesque object in a wind- mill formerly used for the manufacture of wire, &c. The market-day is on Tuesday. The church is a noble Gothic structure, with a square, but low tower, containing eight bells ; is a modern building and hasten windows on each side; it is dedicated to St. Michael, and is a curacy, in the patronage of the king. There is also a free grammar school, and other charitable institutions in the town. In the neighbourhood there are a number of noble and splendid mansions, among which are those of Trentham hall, the Marquis of Stafford's ; Meaford hall, Viscount St. Vincent's; Swin- nerton park, Thomas Fitzherbert's, Esq. &c. &c. Stone has four annual fairs ; the Tuesday after Midlent ; Shrove Tuesday ; Whit-Tuesday ; and August the fifth for sheep and cattle. BAKLASTON HALL, STAFFORDSHIRE ; THE SEAT OF RALPH ADDERLEY, ESQ. This beautiful mansion is situate on a fine eminence, commanding a most extensive view of the surrounding country, and looking over the most delightfully picturesque portion of the vale 38 PICTURESQUE VIEWS of Trent. The grand junction canal, (which forms a communication with the rivers Mersey Dee, Ribble, Ouse, Derwent, &c.) passes through the grounds of this handsome pile of building which, although backed, and embosomed in trees, not only commands the view of a vast tract of country, but can also, from its great elevation, be seen for many miles. MEAFORD HALL, STAFFORDSHIRE; THE SEAT OF LORD ST. VINCENT At Darlaston, within one mile of Stone, is Meaford-Hall, the family residence of Lord St. Vincent. This excellent family mansion is situate in a fertile valley. It has no pecular archi- ttctural pretensions ; but those of its noble owners, are of a higher order, and which Burke, in his peerage, thus describes : — " Edward Jervis, Jervis, Viscount St. Vincent, of Meaford, in the county of Stafford, married first, the twenty-ninth of January, 3790, Mary Cassander, second daughter of Thomas, tenth Lord Say and Seale ; by whom he has issue, William Jervis, born the eleventh of October, 1794, married the twenty-eighth of July, 1815, Sophia, daughter of George Narbonne Vincent, Esq. and has issue Maria. And, secondly, (his lordship's marriage having been dissolved, by act of parliament, in 1798) Mary-Anne, second daughter of Thomas Parker, Esq., of Park hall, in the county of Stafford, by whom he has John, Edwaed, and Mary-Anne. His lordship succeeded to the peerage, as second Viscount, at the decease of his uncle, the late Earl St. Vincent, on the fifteenth of March, 1823, and assumed, by royal permission, on the seventh of May, in the same year, the surname and arms of Jervis only, instead of those of his own personal family, Ricketts. " Lineage.— John Jervis, Esq., second son of Swynfen Jervis, Esq., a lawyer of eminence (descended from James Jervis, of Chatky 11, in the county of Stafford, living temp. Hen. VIII. by Elizabeth, daughter of George Parker, Esq., of Park hall,) was born at Meaford, on the nineteenth of January, 1734, and having entered the royal navy at a very early period of life, OF STAFFORDSHIRE. (in Iiis tenth year), attained the highest honours in that gallant profession, and was elevated to the peerage, on the twenty-seventh day of May, 1797, by the title of Baron Jervis, of Meaford, in the county of Stafford ; and Earl St. Vincent, in consequence of the splendid victory he had achieved in that year, over the Spanish fleet, off cape St. Vincent. His lordship was nominated first lord of the admiralty, in 1801 ; and created, on the twenty-seventh of April, in the same year, Viscount St. Vincent, with remainder in default of male issue, to his nephews, William Henry Ricketts, and Edward Jervis Ricketts, successively, and afterwards, to those gentlemen's sister, Mary, Countess of Northesk, and her male descendants. The earl married in 1783, Mar- tha, daughter of Lord Chief Baron Parker, who died without issue, in 1816. His lordship died in March, 1823, when the earldom and barony expired, but the viscountcy devolved upon the younger nephew (the eldest, Captain William Rickets, of the royal navy, having been unfortu- nately drowned in 1805, and leaving only daughters), Edward Jervis, the present viscount, who is second son of William Henry Ricketts, Esq. of Canaan, in the island of Jamaica, by the deceased earFs sister Mary. Creation, — The twenty-seventh of April, 1801. Motto. — Thus. Exploits. — The intrepid and distinguished conduct of Vice Admiral Sir John Jervis — are thus admirably described by Mr. Pitt, in his topographical history of this county. " In the latter end of 1793, his majesty having determined to send a formidable armament to the West Indies, to reduce the French islands in that quarter, and to secure his own from any attack of the enemy, under the command of Lieutenant General Sir Charles Grey, K. B. ; Vice Admiral Sir John Jervis, K. B. was nominated commander-in-chief of the naval force, on the same expedition. On Monday, January the sixth, 1794, they arrived off Barbadoes, and immediately prepared for the expedition against Martinique ; for which the total military force embarked was six thou- sand effectives, besides two hundred and twenty-four sick. The fleet sailed from Barbadoes, on February the third, and appeared before Martinique, on Wednesday, February the fifth ; on the following day the general effected a landing. After some intermediate operations, the town of St. Pierre was attacked by sea and land, and carried ; the enemy's strength was then con- centrated in one point at fort Louis and Bourbon ; these the admiral now attacked, and, on the twentieth of February, these strong holds were completely invested : on March the twenty-fifth fort Bourbon was surrendered ; fort Louis was also taken by storm. The island of Martinique being thus conquered, the fleet and army then proceeded on March the thirtieth for St. Lucia, which also surrendered on the fourth of April. On Tuesday, April the eighth, the commanders proceeded against Guadaloupe ; fort Fleur d'Epee was taken on the twelfth, and with this fell Hog Island, and fort Louis, an old fortification, commanding the entrance into the harbour of Point a Petre, which town was also taken possession of at the same time by Sir Charles Grey. On the thirteenth the army was re-imbarked, and landed on Bas Terre at Petit Bourg, in ano- ther part of the island; the admiral landed at Auce-de-Bailiff : the Palmiste was taken by assault, and the island of Guadaloupe was surrendered to the commander-in-chief on the twenty- third of April. In June, an armament arrived from France, made good their landing on Grand 40 PICTURESQUE VIEWS Terre, and retook fort Fleur d'Epee by storm. The admiral was at this time with the genera at St. Christophers., on his return to England. The commanders instantly determined to returr to Guadaloupe, and pushed for Basterre, where they arrived on the seventh ; Sir Charles Grey took the heights of Mascott, and several actions took place; but the general found it now in vain to attempt any thing against Fleur d'Epee, at this season, with an army so greatly reduced by the yellow fever, as well as service. Having therefore made the best arrangements to enable him to renew his attacks after the hurricane months, he embarked on board the Boyne, which proceeded to. fort Royal Bay, where she was laid up during those months' in a strong harbour called Trois Islet Bay, and the sick and wounded were landed for the benefit of fresh air; the general then sailed with the admiral to Martinique, and established his head quarters at St. Pierre. On the thirtieth of September, the enemy having been too successful against the little remnants of the army in Guadaloupe, the admiral embarked, and sailed from Martinique, and anchored off' Grozier, in the bay of Point-a-Petre. But our troops there, under General Gra- ham, reduced by fatigue and sickness, and no longer able to undergo duty, were forced to capi- tulate. Sir John Jervis, who had made every attempt to succour General Graham's camp at Berville, and had been an unwilling spectator from the fleet, of the surrender of that camp to the enemy, now made sail for Bas Terre, to render every assistance in his power to general Prescott; and, on October the ninth, anchored within half a cable's length of the town. How- ever, after various attempts to assist general Prescott, the admiral, worn down by long and se- vere exertions, the fatigues of which were augmented by anxiety for the welfare of the service, that not all his exertions could promote without the arrival of a strong reinforcement, together with the unhealthiness of the climate, found himself no longer able to continue on this station, and, therefore, to the great grief of General Prescott, was obliged to give up his command to admiral Caldwell, and embarking his seamen, under Lieutenant James, from fort Matilda, sailed for St. Pierre ; when every thing was arranged between the several commanders, Sir Charles Grey and his suite embarked once more with Sir John Jervis, on board the Boyne. On No- vember the twenty-seventh they sailed for England, and, after a tedious voyage (being for near a month tossed about the channel by contrary winds) arrived at Spithead, January, the twenty- first 1795." In February 1797, he fought the famous battle off Cape St. Vincent, for which he was re- warded with a peerage. The New Annual Register gives the following account of this glorious victory. " The British fleet, or to speak more correctly, the British squadron under the command of ad- miral Sir John Jervis, amounted to no more than fifteen sail of the line, four frigates, a sloop of war, and a cutter ; of these, six were three-deckers, eight were of seventy-four guns, and one of sixty-four. The Spanish fleet consisted of twenty-seven sail of the line, one of which was a four decker, and carried one hundred and thirty-six guns, six were of one hundred and twelve guns, each, two of eighty-four guns, and eighteen of seventy-four. The Spanish admiral Don Josef de Cordova, had sailed from Carthagena, on the fourth of February, and passed Gibraltar on the following day, having left in that bay, three line-of- battle ships, supposed to be laden with military stores for the Spanish troops before that garrison. On the night of the eleventh, this fleet had been discovered by the Minerva frigate, which carried the broad pennant of Commo- OF STAFFORDSHIRE 41 dore Nelson, then on his way from the Mediterranean to join admiral Jervis. Captain Foote of the Nigre, also kept company with them for some days previous to the thirteenth, and that night they appeared so near the British fleet, that their signal guns were distinctly heard. The signals were, therefore, made for the British fleet to prepare for battle, and at day-break on the fourteenth they were in complete order. The morning was dark and hazy, but about half past six the Culloden made the signal for five sail in the south-west quarter ; at eight o'clock the squadron was ordered to form in close order, and, in a few minutes after, the signal was re- peated to prepare for battle. At a little after ten, the Minerva made the signal for twenty sail in the south-west quarter, and, in about half an hour after, the enemy's fleet was visible to all the British squadron. The ships first discovered by the Culloden, were, at this period, sepa- rated from their main body, which was bearing down in some confusion, to join the separated ships. It appeared to have been the British admiral's intention at the first, to cut off those ves- sels from the enemy's fleet, before the main body could arrive to their assistance, and, with this view, the fast sailing ships were ordered to chase, but, observing the positions of their main body, he afterwards formed his fleet into a line of battle, a-head and a-stern, as most convenient. At about twenty-six minutes past eleven, the admiral communicated his intention to pass through the enemy's line, and, immediately after, the signal was made to engage. At about half past eleven, the action commenced by the van ship, the Culloden, commanded by captain Trow- bridge, firing against the enemy's headmost ships to the windward. As the squadron advanced, however, the action became more general ; and it was soon apparent that the British admiral had accomplished his design of passing through the enemy's line. In the meantime the regular and animated fire of the British fleet, was but feebly returned by the enemy's ships to windward, which were also completely prevented from joining their companions to leeward, and obliged to haul their wind on the larboard tack ; thus a part of the Spanish fleet was effectually cut off from the main body, and they were reduced to the necessity of also forming on their larboard tack, apparently with the intention of passing through or to the leeward of the British line ; but such was the reception they experienced from the centre of the British, that they were obliged to put about, and did not appear in the action till the close of the day. The British admiral having fortunately thus obtained his first object, now directed his whole attention to the enemy's main body to windward, which was reduced at this time, by the separation of the ships to lee- ward, to eighteen sail of the line. At a little after twelve o'clock, the signal was made for the British fleet to attack in succession, and soon after, the signal for again passing the enemy's line ; while the Spanish admiral's design appeared to be, to join his ships to leeward by wearing round the rear of the British line. The intention of the enemy was, however, soon perceived by com- modore Nelson, whose station in the rear, afforded him an opportunity of observing the manoeu- vre. In order to frustrate the design, therefore, his ship the Captain, had no sooner passed the Spanish rear, than he ordered her to wear, and stand on the other tack towards the enemy. In executing this bold manoeuvre, the commodore found himself alongside the Spanish admiral, the Santissima Trinidada of one hundred and thirty-six guns, which is said to be at present the largest ship in existence. Notwithstanding this immense disparity (the Captain being only a se- venty-four), this brave officer did not shrink from the contest ; though the Spaniard was warm- ly supported by her two seconds a-head and a-stern, which were each of them three-deckers. G 42 PICTUHESQUE VIEWS While he sustained, however, this unequal conflict, his friends were eagerly pressing to his as- sistance ; the enemy's attention was, therefore, directed to the Culloden, captain Trowbridge, and the Blenheim, captain Frederick ; and the able support afforded by these vessels to com- modore Nelson, and the approach of the rear-admiral Parker, with four others of the British line, determined the Spanish commander to relinquish his design of re-joining his ships to lee- ward, and to make the signal for his main body to haul their wind, and make sail on the larboard tack. The advantage was now evidently on the side of the British, and while the advanced division warmly pressed the centre and rear of the enemy, the admiral meditated with his divi- sion a co-operation which might effectually compel some of them to surrender. In the confusion of their retreat, several of the Spanish ships had doubled on each other. It was, therefore ad- miral Jervis's plan to reach the weathermost of those ships, then to bear up and take them all in succession, with the seven ships composing his division. The casual position of the rear-ships in his own division, however, prevented the executing this design ; he therefore ordered the leading ship, the Excellent, captain Collingwood, to bear up, while, with his own ship the Vic- tory, he passed to Leeward of the rearmost ships of the enemy. Captain Collingwood, in obe- dience to the admiral's orders, passed between the two rearmost ships of the enemy, and gave one of them, the San Isidoro, so effectual a broadside, that, having been much injured before, she was obliged to submit. The Excellent then passed on to the relief of the Captain, which was engaged with a three-decker, carrying a flag; but, before she could arrive, the vessel became entangled with a second, a two-decker; in this state they were both boarded by the Captain, and the smaller of them, the San Nicholas, was in a short time in the possession of her opponents. The three-decker, the San Joseph, followed the fate of her second, and became immediately a prize to commodore Nelson, who headed the party which boarded her from the San Nicholas. In the mean time admiral Jervis ordered the Victory to be placed on the lee quarter of the rear- most ship of the enemy, the Salvator del Mundo; and threw in so effectual a discharge that her commander, seeing the Barfleur, carrying vice-admiral Waldegrave's flag, bearing down to se- cond the Victory, thought proper to strike. Thus four of the enemy's ships were in possession of the British, while the van ships continued to press hard on the Santissima Trinidada, the Spa- nish admiral's ship, and the others which composed the rear of the flying fleet. The career of victory was, however, stopped by circumstances not in the power of the British commander to control. The ships which, in the morning, had been separated from the main body of the Spa- nish fleet, were not able to make their approach ; two fresh ships which had not appeared in the action, bore down from windward, and two of the flying ships tacked about to support their chiefs. These circumstances, therefore, with the lateness of the hour, and the necessity of se- curing the prizes, determined the conquering admiral to bring-to. —A little after four in the af- ternoon, the signal was made to this effect ; and a strong line was formed for the protection of the prizes and disabled vessels, The enemy's fresh ships, on approaching, opened a fire on the covering ships ; but, though superior in number, and fresh for action, they contented themselves with a few irregular broadsides, and left the British admiral to sail off triumphantly with his prizes, which the reader will remember amounted to four ; viz. the Salvator del Mundo, and the San Joseph of one hundred and twelve guns; the San Nicholas of eighty-four; and the San Isidoro, of seventy-four. The Spanish admiral, which was greatly the object of attention OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 43 to the British ships, was rendered a perfect wreck ; her firing had ceased before the close of the action, and some even affirm that she had struck her colours. The loss of the British in this en- gagement, in killed and wounded^ was exactly three hundred men. The loss of the Spaniards which were captured, amounted to six hundred and ninety-three ; and the ships which escaped must also have suffered considerably. So important a victory, with such a disparity of force, is, perhaps, unparalleled in our naval annals. The ability displayed by the commander, was only to be equalled by the valour and adroitness of the seamen ; indeed, we have been informed by an eye-witness that the fire of the British was superior to that of their opponents, in the pro- portion of five or six to one, during the whole of the action ; and the expenditure of ammuni- tion, was, consequently, beyond example. The Culloden, it is said, expended one hundred and seventy barrels of powder ; the Captain, one hundred and forty-six ; and the Blenheim, one hundred and eighty. The Spaniards fought bravely, but with little skill ; and it is but fair to remark, that their fleet was ill equipped, and very indifferently manned, and in no respect fit for action ; their flag ship had not more than sixty or eighty seamen on board ; the rest consisted of impressed landsmen, or soldiers, of their new levies. As the port of Cadiz had been their ori- ginal destination, and as many of their ships were disabled, the Spaniards manifested no inclina- tion to renew the action, but took shelter in Cadiz.'" Sir John Jervis for this signal victory, was rewarded with an earldom, created Baron Jervis, of Meaford, in the county of Stafford, and Earl St. Vincent, to him and his heirs in form and manner, as before stated. DAKLASTON HALL, STAFFORDSHIRE ; THE SEAT OF SWINFEN JERVIS, ESQ. This ancient family mansion, situate on a delightful bank, — embosomed with trees, and the river Trent flowing under it— is near Darlaston bridge, which crosses the river ; the fer- tile and luxuriant meadows, together with the ancient plantations of fir and other trees, which skirt the road, give a peculiarly rich and interesting feature to this part of thef county, and in which the highly esteemed families of the Jervis' s have so long been held in estimation. X 44 PICTURESQUE VIEWS SPRING VALE, NEAR STONE. This delightful vale has been much noticed by travellers, on the great road between London and Liverpool, and there is not perhaps, one that more particularly arrests attention. Although the building erected on the rising grounds, is devoted to persons afflicted with nervous or men- tal maladies — yet the propriety of selecting so cheerful, healthy, and salubrious a spot, is not only highly praiseworthy, but, under the able and humane conduct of Mr. Thomas Bakewell, its highly respected proprietor, lias been productive of incalculable good ; and, as a contemporary observes, " the proprietor has laid out the grounds with such taste and diversity that the whole has more the appearance of a beautiful retired seat, the residence of some opulent individual, than a receptacle for those labouring under distressing mental aberration, for which it is esta- blished ; art and nature have here acted in unison, and the boldness of the one has been softened down by the hand of the other ; hill and dale, groves, water, and fountains are judiciously in- termingled ; and, perhaps, no spot could be found more proper for an asylum of the kind to which it is appropriated, than "Spring Vale ; having the advantage of overlooking a great tho- roughfare road, yet too distant for any noise to assail its quietness, from the numerous travellers and carriages which are continually upon it, while the salubrity of the air and the purity of its waters, have been long proverbial." In truth, the whole of this part of Staffordshire may not only be termed a perfect garden, but, from the circumstance of the fine wild-wood scenery, the highly cultivated taste evinced in the noble mansions that are erected in almost every direction, and the extensive parks and groves that surround them, have very naturally given rise to poeti- cal strains, from which we present our readers with the following from a poem entitled, " The Vale of Trent," and, as it refers to several mansions that we have already, and shall hereafter describe, they may not perhaps be considered inappropriate. THE VALE OF TRENT. " Illustrious vale ! from whose gay meads arose, The pride of Britain, terror of her foes ! O ! dear to patriots, sacred spot of earth, Which to his country gave St. Vincent, birth. In Meaford's* bow'rs he fann'd the infant flame, Whose lustre led him through the rank of fame, 'Till vanquished empire trembles at his name ; So the young eagles leap from branch to branch, Then through the air a measured distance launch ; Their flight still length'ning ever fir'd to rise, Till their proud crests are lost among the skies." * The place of Earl St. Vincent's nativity. OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 4£ In reference to Trentham, which we have already described ; the author proceeds " Alcoves ascend, from whence the gladden 'd eye, Rolls oe'r the splendour of a western sky ; While roses scattered in delightful brakes, Load the fresh breezes from surrounding lakes, Their new-blown sweets retiring violets shed, In velvet cloth'd, impurpling all the shade ; A sweet seclusion from meridian hours Laburnum's Offer, in their ample bow'rs ; Their pendant tresses, rich in nature's mould, An artificial heaven of shining gold. Where shall my eye for each bright object rove, O Trentham* ! thine the full description prove ; O'er the long hills, I catch thy stately woods. And through the solemn gloom, thy dashing floods ; The shining surface of thy wat'ry plane, And the far mansion — closing the grand scene ; Yet, when no more, you emulate the day, In time's fierce tide, swept every charm away ; E'en the destroyer shall himself consume ; Still unimpair'd shall Stafford'st virtues bloom." As descriptive of other scenery, and of other mansions of our nobility, the author thus de- scribes them. " But see, enliven'd by the evening's gleam, The scatter'd hamlets, and the glittering stream ; The lab' ring peasant, freed from day's long toil, Bask in her glories, and enjoy her smile. See air SanbonJ elegantly neat, And Ingestrie§, far 'mongst her woods' retreat ; Tixall|| majestic, though antique her style, Gay Bishton,1T on thy lucid waters smile : Greenwood** enfolded in her oaks broad arms, And Shugboroughtt, spreading her ten thousand charms." In another portion of the poem, the author thus continues. " Far mid the stream, stands Wolseley's shatter'd pride^X In ruin'd grandeur braving still the tide : , . • * The seat of the Marquis of Stafford. t Lady Stafford. X The seat of Lord Harrowby. § The seat of Earl Talbot. || The seat of the Hon. Thomas Clifford. IT The seat of J. Sparrow, Esq. ** The seat of Mrs. Ford. ft The seat of Thomas Anson, Esq. X Referring to the bridge some years ago swept away, and to which we have already alluded. 46 PICTURESQUE VIEWS While slowly sail around its ancient site, Trent's stately swans arrayed in virgin white. Nor yet forlorn ! sweet Wolseley, blest with these Blest with thy lovely hills, thou still shalt please : Thy far-stretch'd prospects, and thy flow'ry plain ; Soft swelling lawns, and mansion* still remain. With half her charms envelop'd in its maze, The waving foliage round Beaudesertt plays ; While Blythfield's + oaks in summer's pomp appear, Or spring returns — O Wolseley I don't despair." # SOHO, STAFFORDSHIRE; (NEAR BIRMINGHAM.) The author and compiler of this work, having in his history of Warwickshire, given an account of Soho, from its contiguity to, and original assimilation of articles manufactured at this far- famed spot, Birmingham, feels an additional satisfaction, in presenting to his readers some fur- observations respecting this interesting place. Soho has, at various periods since its commencement, not only improved in its machinery, but has also extended its mechanical and scientific operations from the manufacturing of the smaller articles of trinkets, to that of the improvement and manufacture of the most active of agents — the most ponderous and powerful steam engines. More extraordinary effects have been produced by the steam engine at this place, than at any other part of the known world. In Mr. Pitts' topographical history of Staffordshire, published in 1817, he observes, in speaking of Soho and its vast concerns, &c, that, "the waste-lands called Handsworth-heath, which, about sixty years ago, was a barren waste, and rabbit-warren, is now a populous village or town. A beautiful garden, with pleasure grounds, and a piece of water, now covers one side of the heath ; several spacious square buildings, erected on the other side, contain workshops for six hundred people. The extensive pool gives motion to a large wa- * The mansion of the Wolseley family. t The seat of the Marquis of Anglesea. % The seat of Lord Bagot. h, OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 47 ter-wheel, and, by its means, to a great number of different tools ; and the mechanical inven- tions here employed, are superior in number, variety, and utility, to those of any other manufac- tory in Europe. When the projector first commenced business here, his productions were such as are usually made by the artists of Birmingham ; namely, buttons, buckles, watch-chains and trinkets; but, with increasing prosperity, his plans of utility were extended, and the manufacture of plated wares on a large scale was, likewise, introduced ; and, when these substantial and useful branches had been fully established, the proprietors began to bring forward works of elegance in stone, bronze, and or-molu. This new manufacture immediately received the sanction of His Majesty and the principal nobility, while the invention and activity of . the manufacturer, kept pace with such distinguished patronage. Messrs. Boulton and Watt afterwards turned their attention to the manufacture of wrought plate, and, after a struggle, obtained the establishment of an office of Assay in Birmingham, for regulating the purity of the metal. Wrought plate is now a pro- minent article among the many rich productions of this great establishment, to the extension of which, the invention of the steam engine has contributed in a very considerable degree. The celebrated Mr. Pratt, in giving an account of Soho, appropriately observes that ff this far famed place owes its celebrity to a single individual whose whole life has been spent, in one unremitting effort to advance the national character, and augment the national wealth, by extending manu- factures and commerce, facilitating labour, and enlarging the sphere of human ingenuity. -This scene of wonder was once a barren heath, on the bleak summit of which stood a naked hut, the habitation of a warrener. In 1762 when Mr. Boulton purchased a lease of the premises, there was only a small house and a feeble mill erected. In 1764, he laid the foundation of the pre- sent superb edifice, which was finished the next year, at the expense of of^OOO. From the era of building this grand fabric, Mr. Boulton began to devote his attention to the different branches of manufacture; and, in conjunction with Mr. Fothergill, his then partaer, established a mer- cantile correspondence throughout Europe. About the year 1779, that ingenious art of copy- ing pictures in oil colours, by a mechanical process was invented at Soho, and brought to such perfection as to be taken for originals by the most experienced connoisseurs. This was chiefly conducted by the ingenious Mr. Egginton, which led him to that of painting upon glass* in a neighbouring manufactory. Mr. Boulton, finding the stream of water insufficient, applied horses in conjunction with his water-mill ; but, this proving troublesome, irregular, and expensive, in 1767, he made a steam engine on Savary's plan, with the intention of returning and raising the water twenty-five feet * The author of this work in his History of Birmingham, has not only given a list, but a description of the great productions of that ingenious artist, Mr. Egginton, whose death was considered a national loss ; other talented artists have, however, arisen in Birmingham in similar pursuits, and the productions of Mr. Pember- ton, have been duly noticed and appreciated. — We have also recently seen some of a very beautiful and supe- rior character, executed by Mr. Freeth of Birmingham, whose etchings and execution of landscapes in neutral tint, upon glass ; possess an extraordinary degree of merit. Among his paintings upon glass, many will remain monuments of his taste in this, and the adjoining counties. 48 PICTURESQUE VIEWS high. This being unsatisfactory, he soon after formed an acquaintance with M*. James Watt, of Glasgow, who in 1765 had invented several valuable improvements in the steam engine. In 1775. Mr. Watt entered into partnership with Mr. Boulton, and they established a very exten- sive manufactory of steam engines at Soho, from whence most of the great mines and manufac- tories in England are supplied. Among the various applications of the steam engine, that of coining is very important, as by its powers all the operations are concentrated in one spot." Another account of Soho, written subsequently to Mr. Pratt's states that, " the manufacture of metallic toys, by the late Mr. Boulton, in conjunction with his partner Mr. Fothergill, was the commencement of these extensive works. Plated ware, or Sheffield plate, including various useful and ornamental articles was next introduced. These were succeeded by a happy imita- tion of the French Or-molu ornaments, composed of vases, tripods, and other works, and by ele- gant and massive services of silver plate. The establishment of a manufactory of steam engines, when Mr. Watt, whose valuable improvement of that machine forms a remarkable era in its his- tory, became a partner in the concern, extended the celebrity as well as the profits of the works at Soho. In all the productions of this manufactory, whether in the form of large and powerful apparatus, or in that of trinkets and ornaments of novelty, taste and ingenuity have been always conspicuous. The coining apparatus invented and constructed at Soho, is a singular example of ingenuity. The first coining mill was erected at this manufactory in 1783, and, after various improvements, eight machines going at the same time, are driven by one steam engine. Each machine strikes from seventy to eighty pieces, of the size of a guinea, in a minute, so that be- tween thirty and forty thousand are worked off by the whole machines in one hour, all the pro- cesses are conducted by machinery as in copper coin, rolling the masses of copper into sheets, rolling them through cylindrical steel rollers, clipping the pieces of copper for the dies, shaking the coin in bags, striking both sides of the coin and then milling it. But one of the most inge- nious contrivances of this machinery is, that a precise account of every piece coined is regularly kept, so that even the possibility of fraud is precluded." I* #. iH *- ' : -; < ■A ■ uj i *3 ■ •-. s fi a m 2 s = OF STAFFORDSHIRE 49 GREAT BAER HALL, STAFFORDSHIRE; THE SEAT OF SIR EDWARD SCOTT. This ancient mansion, so long in the family of the Scotts', is said to be one of the finest and most delightful residences in this part of the country. It stands in the lap of a charming vale, embosomed within a beautiful lawn, surrounded by an abundant variety of trees, as well as being favoured with a fine sheet of water in front, and being backed by richly wooded hills, ren- ders the effect remarkably fine. The rich foliage above casts an umbrageous shade on the inter- sected walks below, which Mr. Nightingale thus happily describes. "At different points as you ascend the hill, are placed rustic seats, each commanding enchanting but dissimilar views of the scenery below. One of them exhibits a truly Shenstonian prospect, the eye being directed down through the wild copse, upon the lake in the vale, whose extremity is concealed behind the rich- est scenes of aged oaks and verdant hills. Descending from these in a different direction towards the house, you pass the kitchen-garden, and shortly after enter the flower-garden, which is laid out with the most refined taste." At a little distance from the latter garden stands a beautiful urn, to the memory of Miss Mary Doleman, cousin to the celebrated Shenstone. The following elegant epitaph from the pen of the poet, is engraved on the pedestal : " Ah Maria," puellarum elegantissima, Ah Flore, venustate abrepta : vale " Hue quanto minus est Cum reliquis versari quam tui meminisse." This urn is composed of statuary marble, and fluted, with a medallion of Miss Dolman in the centre, and bears above the Shenstonian epitaph, the following words ; " Consobrinae suae Maria Dolman" " Hanc Urnam " " Posuerunt," « I. and M. " «S." Leaving the urn, a gradually rising walk now presents itself, and leads to more elevated ground commanding an extensive prospect of the surrounding country. Approaching the house we be- H 50 PICTURESQUE VIEWS hold a very noble cascade, pouring its noisy waters into the large and beautiful lake which adorns the valley. Crossing the head of this lake, and proceeding along the range of hills which stretch themselves from hence, we reach High-wood and Barrbeacon. The latter of these sum- mits claims particular attention. In the time of the Druids, we have already mentioned it to have been the points from which these priests gave notice to the people of their quarterly sacri- fices. It afterwards, in the time of the Saxons, became a beacon to alarm the country during the invasion of the Danes, who likewise probably used it for similar purposes themselves.* Of the agreeable village of Great Barr, fixed on the declivity of the lofty Barrbeacon which stretches itself out to a great extent, and seems like a great barrier to the country beyond it. The derivation of the name of this place is somewhat uncertain, being regarded by a few as eoming from the word Bara, signifying a wild uncultivated field, and by others, from the term Barak, to eat, sacrifice, or purify. -f* « The chapel of Great Barr is adorned by a lofty spire, and is altogether an elegant edifice — it contains six musical bells, and the gallery is adorned with a handsome organ, and indeed the whole of the interior is fitted up with infinite taste. An exquisite painting on the glass of the east window executed by Mr. Egginton, is, as Mr. Nightingale truly remarks, not inferior in style and execution to many of the most approved productions of this art in more remote times, the late Mr. Egginton, who not only happily borrowed it from the Rev. William Peters' spirit of a child, but actually succeeded in improving the original design, chiefly by his having introduced some highly finished clouds, which finely relieve the splendid effect of the supernatural light. The graceful and highly flowing hair, together with the delicately beautiful and interesting faces of the two figures, are exquisitely delineated and softened by a gradation of tints, and simpli- city of colouring, of which the ancient painters were wholly ignorant. WALSALL Is an ancient market town and borough, pleasantly situated on an eminence, contiguous to, and south of Rusball, and gradually rises from the eastern bank of the brook. It is governed by a mayor, recorder, twenty-four aldermen, a town clerk, two Serjeants at mace, and a beadle : the commission of the peace is also vested in the senior alderman and late mayor, who award judgment in petty offences. Walsall is distant about nine miles from Lichfield, and is considered a place of great antiquity, it does not, however, send any member to parliament. Mr. Nightingale remarks that, previous to the commencement of the late war, Walsall was a very thriving and flourishing town, consist- * Shaw's History of Stafford vol. i. p. 105. t Ibid, vol. ii. p. 102. Stukeley's Itin. OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 51 mg principally of twelve large and regular streets. Of late years, its industry, in common with that of the different towns engaged in the same species of trade, has suffered considerable de- pression. The general manufacture of the place, are articles connected with the saddlery and harness department. In 1811, Walsall contained two thousand six hundred and eighty-six males, and two thousand eight hundred and fifty-five females. The market is held on Tuesday. The parish of Walsall, is extensive, from including Bloxwieh, Harden, Birch-hill, Wal- sall Wood, Windmill, Caldmore, and Limepit-tank. According to Dr. Plott, a curious prac- tice prevails here. On the eve of Epiphany, a dole of one penny is regularly distributed to every person residing either in the borough, or in the villages belonging to it, without regard to whether they are fixed residents or not. This gift was bestowed, as is generally believed, by an inhabitant of the name of Moseley, who happened to hear a child cry for bread on this day, was so affected, that he vowed such an occurrence should never take place again ; and, as the means of preventing it, immediately made over his manor of Bascot to the corporation, with the view of maintaining the dole. Some affirm, however, that it originated in an endowment, which he bestowed on this church and the abbey of Hales Owen, in order to have prayers said for his own soul and that of his wife ; and after the dissolution of religious houses, this endowment, or at least part of it, was converted to the maintenance of this yearly benevolence. The church, which is dedicated to St. Matthew, stands on a bold eminence, from which the streets gradually descend on every side. The church, which formerly belonged to the abbey of Hales Owen, from a grant by William Rufus, and, as Mr. Pitt remarks, it is built in the form of a cross, but does not exhibit any traces of Saxon architecture. The interior is spacious, the roof lofty, and each side of the church has seven stalls, the seats of which are ornamented with a va- riety of grotesque figures carved in basso relievo, and under this part of the church, a Gothic archway forms a passage through the eastern division of the church -yard. The neat paintings on glass, which formerly ornamented the window of this church, are now nearly obliterated, except the window of St. Catharine's chapel, containing mutilated figures of that saint ; and St. Catharine's chapel has several vacant niches in its walls, which were doubt- less intended for statues. Exclusive of the church, there are several places of public worship for dissenters of various denominations, and the town has an excellent free grammar- school. Mr. Pitt remarks that limestone of excellent quality, is found in the hills near the town, to which a canal has been made, communicating with the lower level of the Birmingham canal, and iron mines opened on its banks. The Wyerly and Essington canal also approaches within a short distance of Walsall. Walsall, according to Capper, contained in 1821, two thousand three hundred and eighty-one houses, and eleven thousand nine hundred and fourteen inhabitants ; viz. five thousand one hun- dred and thirty-six females ; of whom one thousand eight hundred and twenty-nine families are employed in trade and manufactures, chiefly in those of buckles, bridle-bits, and various articles of hardware. The quarter-sessions are held at stated periods ; market on Tuesday ; fairs, Fe- bruary twenty-first, Whit-Tuesday, and the Tuesday before Michaelmas-day, chiefly for cattle. It is a vicarage value <£10. 19s. Id. ♦ 52 PICTURESQUE VIEWS DUDLEY CASTLE. This noble rock-based castle is of great antiquity, and is a conspicuous object from the elevated situation upon which it is erected on a limestone hill, at about three miles south of Wednesbury, and is said to have been built by Dodo, or Duodo, a great and distinguished Saxon chief, about the year 760 and from whom it derived its name. It appears that formerly the sides of this .lime- stone hill was so completely covered with trees, as to give it the appellation of the *■ Castle in the woods." The prospect from the castle is not only a beautiful, but most extensive one, com- manding considerable portions of the counties of Worcester, Stafford, Derby, Warwick, Leices- ter, Salop, and part of Wales. The hills of Malvern, Rowley, Clent, Abberley. the Cleys and the Wrekin, are, as Mr. Pitt justly remarks, noble features to the scene. " Mountains on whose barren breast, The labouring clouds do rest." Seven English and two Welch counties, may be distinctly seen on a fine day, varied by nu- merous ridges of mountains, rich fertile vales and populous towns, with the spires of the diffe- rent churches and various elegant habitations. The buildings of the old castle encompassed an area of about an acre, surrounded by a strong wall flanked by towers. Mr. Nightingale states that, after the Norman conquest, it appears to have been bestowed upon William Fitz-Ansculph, who possessed no less than twenty-five manors in this county. During the contentions for the crown by King Stephen and the Empress Maud, this castle was fortified and maintained on the part of the latter, by Gervase Pagnel, whose son having joined in rebellion against Henry II., it was dismantled by the orders of that monarch. This second Pagnel, dying without male issue, this honour passed, by marriage to John de So- mery. In the seventeenth year of Henry III. it was seized for the king's use, on account of Roger de Somery neglecting or refusing to appear in order to have the honour of knighthood conferred upon him. It was, however, soon after, returned, and we find that, about thirty years subsequent to this, the same Somery obtained a licence to fortify again. Male issue also failing in his family, it became the property of John Sutton, who married Margaret, one of the heirs general in the reign of Edward II. The Suttons were a respectable family in Nottinghamshire, and, in consequence of their owning this castle, one of them was called to the peerage by the title of Lord Dudley. In the reign of Henry VIII. it was purchased by John. Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, who lost it by rebellion in the time of Queen Mary : this nobleman is said to have made great repairs and additions to the buildings. Alter his death, the queen bestowed it on Sir Edward Sutton, son and heir of the Lord Dudley who had sold it to the duke. Anne, great grand-daughter of this gentleman, carried it, by marriage, to Humble Ward, who was created Earon Ward of Birmingham, in Warwickshire, on the third of March, 1643 During the civil wars which now began to distract England, this castle was twice besieged ; first m 1044, JH # i *J 9 til OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 53 when, after holding out for three weeks, it was relieved by a corps of the king's forces, from Wor- cester ; and again in 1646, at which time it was surrendered to Sir William Brereton, comman- der of the parliamentary troops by colonel Leveson, governor for the king. Some affirm that this noble family continued to reside here for a considerable period after the restoration ; but at length they deemed it expedient to abandon it, probably on account of the ruinous condition to which it had been reduced by the siege. Tradition says that it has since served as a retreat to a set of coiners, who having set fire to the buildings, were thereby discovered, and compelled to seek some other refuge, in which to carry on their iniquitous profession. Mr. Pitt observes that in the valley are still the traces of an entrenchment thrown up against it in Cromwell's time, and several cannon-balls, some of them thirty-two pounders, have been found among the ruins. It was for several years after this inhabited by the lordVkeeper, the plantation kept in order, and the park within the walls well stocked with deer. It was in 1750 that the before mentioned coiners took refuge here, and who wilfully or accidentally destroyed the place by fire. It is now quite neglected, and forms a very picturesque ruin, and is still sur- rounded by shrubs and trees. A number of decayed buildings surrounding the court of this mansion are encompassed by a wall flanked with towers. The keep forms the most ancient por- tion of these buildings, the chapel, containing two noble Gothic windows, it appears ranks next in point of age, and about which period it is imagined the great and strong gateway with the apartment over it was erected ; a vault called the prison is under the chapel ; on the eastern di- vision of the castle is the kitchen in which are two chimney pieces of enormous size ; and, in the great hall formerly stood an oak table, one yard in breadth, and twenty-five in length : the prin- cipal portions of the castle is a ruin. There are some extraordinary circumstances connected with the Dudley family, which we have stated in our (West's) history of Warwickshire, in reference to the Earls of Birmingham of whom, Edward the most unfortunate, Dugdale thus speaks * " This Edward happened to be the last of the family that had to do here ; for being contem- porary with that ambitious man John Dudley, afterwards Viscount L'Lsle (more commonly known by those greater titles which he some time had, viz. Earl of Warwick, and Duke of Northumber- land) he was strangely wrested out of this lordship ; for the said John having possessed himself of Dudley Castle, (as in Warwick I have shewed) and observing Bermingham a fit ornament for so noble a seat, but being the principal residence of such a family as had for some hundred of years enjoy'd it, not likely to be purchased from the then rightful owner, conspired by a wicked stratagem to work him out of it, which he soon put in practice : The story whereof is in sub- stance thus, as by tradition from divers discreet persons I have heard, viz. that Dudley did set on some of his agents to lodge in Bermingham, and to learn when master Bermingham was to ride out from home ; which being accordingly done, they so contrived their business, that one of their plot should ride leisurely before, so that they might soon, keeping but an ordinary pace, overtake him ; whereupon they watcht an opportunity to strike into master Bermingham'' s com- pany, as travellers, with whom they soberly rode for awhile, but being come up to their confede- rate, forthwith set upon him for his purse, so that the villain, thus seemingly rob'd makes pur- suit after them, and likewise after master Bermingham, as one of the pack ; who, being there- upon apprehended and prosecuted, apparently saw his danger. The business therefore now 54 PICTURESQUE VIEWS working according to Dudley's first design, there were others employed to master Bermingham with overture how he might save his life, viz. to make the Viscount Vide his friend in giving up this lordship of Bermingham to him, which that it might bear the better colour, and be the more valid, was performed by yielding it to the king, and ratified by a speciall act of parliament, the tenor whereof was as followeth. 11 " Where Edward Byrmingham late of Byrmingham, in the countie Warwick Esquire, other- wise Edward Byrmingham Esquire, ys and standyth lawfully indebted to our sovereign lord kynge in diverse great summes of money ; and also standyeth at the mercy of his highness for that the same Edward, ys at this present convicted of Jeloney ; our said sovereign lord the Kying ys contentid and pleased, that for and in recommence and satisfaction to his grace of the seyde summes of money, to accept and take of the seyde Edwarde, the mannour and lordship of Byr- mingham, otherzaise called Byrmincham, with the appurtenances, lying and being in the countie of Warwick, and all and singular other lands and tenements, reversions, rents, services, and he- reditaments of the same Edward Byrmingham, set lying and being in the countie of Warwick aforesaeyde. Be yt therefore ordeyned and enacted by the authority of this present parliament, that our said sovereine lorde the kynge, shall have hold and enjoy to him his heirs and assignes for ever, the seide mannour and lordship of Byrmingham, (&c.) in which act there is a reserva- tion of e£40. per An. to the said Edward and Elizabeth his wife, during their lives. 11 " Howbeit, after this it was no less than nine years ere the grant of it from tho crown to the said Viscount VIsle was made; for it bears not date till December 21. 37 H. 8. (perhaps on pur- pose so deferred, that the world might the less censure him for his hard dealing. 11 At the conclusion of our chronological account of the Earls of Bermingham, we have stated that in the year 1500, Edward Bermingham, succeeded his grandfather at the age of three, being born in 1497, and in his minority, Edward Lord Dudley was granted the wardship, by Henry VII. in 1502, the family estate then consisted of the manor of Bermingham, five others in the county of Oxford, one in Bucks, and one in Worcester, but after peaceable possession of this valuable property for nearly forty years, this ancient and illustrious family was visited and over- whelmed by the ambitious and base John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, by whom this fa- mily were, as we have before stated, cruelly expelled. Forty pounds per annum only, were al- lowed by the act, which deprived the Bermingham family of their estate, and that only during the life of the last-mentioned Edward and his wife. Mr. Hutton states, that " except that branch of the family which proceeded from this origi- nal stem, about 600 years ago, of which the Earl of Lowth is head, I know of no male descen- dant from this-honourable stock ; which, if we allow the founder to come over with Cridda the Saxon, in 582, must have commanded this sovereignty 955 years ago. 11 In 1537, John, Duke of Northumberland, undeservedly became Lord of the manor of Ber- mingham, but it did not prosper under his government, the people were clamorous; and although he exercised the ownership, he did not accept the grant until 1546, when those clamours had somewhat subsided. He kept possession six or seven years only, when through his ambition and artifices, he fell unlamented, and the manor of Bermingham again reverted to the crown. After the extinction of the Bermingham family, the subsequent lords did not reside on the manor. This place gives title to the present Lord Viscount Dudley and Ward, who, by the fe- OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 55 male line, is descended from the Norman Barons, the Fitz-Auscults, the Paganalls, the Somerys, the Suttons, and the Dudleys." According to Burke's peerage, John William Ward, F. R. S. Lord Viscount Dudley and Ward, in the county of Worcester ; and Baron Ward of Birmingham, in the county of War- wick ; recorder of Kidderminster; was born on the ninth of August, 1781 ; succeeded to the family honors, as fourth Viscount upon the demise of his father, twenty-fifth of April, 1823. This family was advanced to the peerage, in consequence of the marriage of one of its mem- bers with the heiress of the Lords Dudley, temp. Charles I. The family of Ward is of great antiquity, and has been seated for many centuries, in the county of Norfolk. In the lineage of the family, Mr. Burke states that William Ward, sixth son of Edward Ward, Esq. of Bixley, in the county of Norfolk, was a wealthy goldsmith in London, and jeweller to the Queen of King Charles I. Having a very ample fortune, he resided at Heal in Staffordshire, and in his life time, Edward Sutton, Lord Dudley, bestowed Frances, his grand-daughter and heiress upon Humble Ward, Esq. the said William Ward's son and heir ; which Frances upon the demise of her grand-father, Lord Dudley, in 1643, succeeded to that barony (created by writ of summons, twenty-fifth of February, 1342, sixteenth of Edward III.), and became Frances, Baroness Dudley, when her husband, Humble Ward, above-mentioned, was first knighted, and subse- quently twenty-third of March, 1644, elevated to the peerage, as Humble Baron Ward, of Birmingham. His lordship died the fourth of October 1670, and was succeeded by his eldest son, — Edward, second Baron Ward, who, at the demise of his mother, in 1701, succeeded also to the barony of Dudley, as eleventh baron, and became Lord Dudley and Ward. His lord- ship died in a few months afterwards." He married Frances, daughter of Sir William Brereton, Bart., of Handford, in the county of Chester, and eventually sole heiress of her brother, Sir Thomas Brereton, by whom he had three sons and three daughters. The eldest and youngest sons died unmarried ; the second son, William, married Frances, daughter of Thomas Dilke, Esq. of Maxtoke castle, in the county of Warwick, by whom, at his decease, in J 692, he left two sons and a daughter, the eldest of which sons — Edward, succeeded his grand-father, as twelfth Baron Dudley, and third Baron Ward. This nobleman married Diana, daughter of Thomas Howard, Esq. Ashted, Surrey ; and dying in his minority, in 1704, was succeeded by his posthumous son, — Edward, thirteenth, and fourth baron, who died unmarried in 1731, when the family-honours reverted to his uncle ; — William, fourteenth, and fifth baron ; at whose de- cease, unmarried in 1740, the baronies separated. The barony of Dudley revolved upon Fernando-Dudley Lea, son of William Lea, Esq. of Hales Owen Grange, in Shropshire, by Frances, only sister of the deceased lord. It fell, how- ever, into abeyance, (as it continues) upon the demise of this nobleman, unmarried twenty-first of October, 1757, between his five sisters. And the barony of Ward, descended to John Ward, Esa. of Sedgley park, Staffordshire, great grandson of the first Lord Ward, through his third son, William Ward, Esq. of Willingworth, and eldest son of William Ward, Esq., M. P., for the county of Stafford, by Mary, daugh- ter of the Honourable John Grey, of Enfield Hall, as sixth baron. His lordship was advanced to a Viscounty, by letters patent, dated the twenty-third of April, 1763, as Viscount Dudley and Ward, of Dudley. He married twice, first Anna-Maria, daughter of Charles Bourchier. 56 PICTURESQUE VIEWS Esq. of the city of Dublin, by whom he had one son, — John, his successor ; and secondly, Ma- ry, daughter and heiress of John Carver, Esq., by whom he had two sons, the youngest of whom, William, only survived his lordship, who died in 1774, and was succeeded by his eldest son, — John y second Viscount, LL.D. who died without issue, in 1788, when the family honours de- volved upon his half-brother, — William, third Viscount, born the twenty-first of January, 1750, married, the twenty-first of August, 1780, Julia, second daughter of Godfrey Bosville, Esq. of Gunthwaite, Yorkshire, by whom he had an only son, — John William, the present peer. His lordship was distinguished by the purest and most munificent benevolence of charac- ter. He died the twenty-fifth of April, 1823. Motto. Comme je Jus. THE POTTERIES. In giving a description of Staffordshire, whether picturesque or otherwise, the Potteries form so important and interesting a feature, as to claim the most marked attention— in fact, they are so picturesque within themselves, that the most favourite objects, that have been delineated bv us in an adjoining county (Warwickshire) have been copied by the ingenious artizans, of the one we are about to describe ; — but we trust that it will be borne in remembrance, that a vast sum is expended by the proprietor of this work, in paying an artist for travelling, and making original drawings of noblemen's and gentlemen's seats, and of the most picturesque objects of which this charming county can boast ; that these original drawings, and engravings from them are protected by the laws of the realm — it is hoped that no. improper use of them will be resorted to — no, we have too kind a feeling towards our liberal patrons to imagine that this will occur, and if it should, our appearance at the breakfast, dinner, and tea table of the first personages in the empire could not be considered as an ill, or an ungracious compliment bestowed upon us ; but, as we have much to say upon this important and interesting district, from various authorities, which we intend to continue down to the most modern discoveries and improvements — we shall commence with Mr. Pitts' luminous illustrations of this opulent and interesting district of the county, lying to the north-east of Newcastle, and extending' about nine or ten miles in length. The Potteries so called, are situated in the hundred of Pirchill, north, and include the towns and villages of Golden-hill, New-field, Smith-field, Tunstall, Langport, Burslem, Cobridge, Lower Lane, Lane Delf, and Lane-end. " Golden-hill is within the liberty of Oldcott, parish of Wolstanton, and is chiefly remarkable for its valuable mines of coal, and the fine and extreme prospects which it commands ; these include nearly the whole county of Chester, and the Welch ■ ' * p OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 57 mountains in the back-ground, and the best general view of the Potteries, with tne surrounding country," Newfield was partly formed out of the very extensive town-fields within the liberties of Tunstall, about the year 1613, though William Badyley, became seized of a messuage, and certain quantities of land there, in the'tenth of Edward VI. It is well situated for manufactu- ring purposes, having abundance of coal. In passing over Smifh-field, Tunstall, and Langport, we arrive at Burslem, of which, Mr. Pitt says " This extensive and populous town, which claims the honour of being the Mother of the Staffordshire Potteries, stands on a rising ground, about three miles and a half, north north-east of Newcastle. It is a parish in Pirchill north, and includes the townships of Hulton- abbey, and Sneyd. The manor of Burslem was in the possession of Robert de Stafford, at the time of the general survey. Henry de Audley was possessed of it in the time of Henry III., and it continued in the possession of his family to the end of the sixteenth century.* Burslem is undoubtedly the ancient seat of the Pottery, where earthenwares have been made many cen- turies, for Dr. Plott, who wrote in 1686, mentions the potteries of this place, as the greatest of the kind, and gives a very minute description of the process of making earthenware at that time.-f* We have devoted a separate article to the description of the various improvements made in this useful and elegant manufacture, since Dr. Plott's time. The vast increase of population, opulence and knowledge, in this district of the county, affords a sufficient demonstration of its general utility, and the numerous manufactories, the extensive warehouses, kilns, and beautiful mansions of the master potters, with the comfortable habitations of the thousands of industrious individuals, employed in this lucrative branch of trade, present a scene of animation truly inte- resting to the patriotic observer. We perfectly agree with Mr. Pitt, in this and every other respect, as well as with Mr. Nightingale, who described the town as being finely situated on a gentle eminence, to the north of Newcastle ; and at the distance of one hundred and fifty-eight miles from London. This town is the largest, and most populous of any in the district, containing, according to the parliamentary returns of 1801, a population of six thousand five hundred and seventy-eight persons; viz. three thousand two hundred and one males, and three thousand three hundred and seventy-seven females, of whom five thousand eight hundred and eighty-six, were returned as being engaged in different branches of trade and manufacture, and only two hundred and forty- three in agriculture. In 1821, Burslem contained one thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine houses, and nine thousand six hundred and ninety-nine inhabitants, of whom one thousand five hundred and fifty-two families are returned as being employed in trade and manufactures, the greater part in the extensive potteries. The town of Burslem is conveniently situated near the Trent and Mersey canal, which about a mile from hence, passes by a tunnel under ground, the length of one thousand eight hundred and eighty-eight yards. The church, dedicated to St. John, was formerly a chapel of ease to Stoke, and is one of the rectories formed out of that of Stoke by an act of parliament passed in 1816. It is a large modern structure with an ancient square tower. There are also several other places of worship for dissenters of various denominations, with an extensive Sunday school and a library of religious publications attached to it. The * Magna Britannia, No. 62, p. 78. t Hist, of Stafford, chap. iii. p. 122. 58 PICTURESQUE VIEWS market house is a very neat one ; the market days are on Monday and Saturday. Fairs the twen- ty-second of March, the twenty-eighth of June, and the seventeenth of October. Mr. Pitt ob- serves that " Burslem, is remarkable as being the place where the first clod of that great national undertaking, the Trent and Mersey canal, was cut by the late Josiah Wedgwood, Esq., and on the twenty-sixth of July, 1816, the fiftieth anniversary of this memorable event was celebrated by a public dinner, at which all the principal manufacturers of Burslem were present. Enoch Wood, Esq. presided upon the occasion, and, after a well merited eulogium upon the late vene- rable father of the Potteries (a native of Burslem), and the inventive genius of Brindley, he exhibited various ancient specimens of earthenware, descriptive of the progressive state of the ma- nufacture during the last one hundred and fifty years, which he divided into epochs of fifty years, from the butter-pot mentioned by Plott, down to the time at which the excellent specimens of queen's or cream-coloured ware, jasper, &c. left by Mr. Wedgewood were produced. 11 Since Mr. Wedgewood's day a vast variety of new and beautiful articles have been produced, and the new durable and excellent article of Stone China, which has been manufactured by the Spodes, Masons, &c. are not only a proof of the great perfection to which this manufacture is brought, but the embossing, paintings, &c. which ornamented them, may be said to vie with those manufactured in China ; and this manufactory is, perhaps superior to any similar one in Europe. Mr. Pitt goes on to state that ¥ It has been often asked why the potters fixed them- selves here, or the potteries of this county continued to flourish more than those of any other part of the kingdom, or perhaps of the whole world ! — the answer (says Mr. Pitt) to this ques- tion appears tolerably obvious— the abundant and almost inexhaustible supply of clay and coal upon the spot, the inland situation of this district, which contributed to render labour cheap, and other circumstances combined to fix and establish this important branch of commerce, where it had been so successfully commenced." Of the material, Dr. Aikin in his history of Manchester, remarks that " the measures of strata, by which the beds of coal are divided, consists, most commonly of clays of different kinds, some of which make most excellent fire bricks, for building the potter's kilns, and saggars (a corrup- tion of the German schragers,) which signifies cases or supporters in which the ware is burnt." Finer clays, of various colours and textures, are likewise plentiful in many places, most of them near the surface of the earth ; and of these the bodies of the wares themselves were formerly manufactured. The coals being then also got near the surface, were plentiful and cheap. In the time of Plott they were as low as two pence the horse-load, which, at eight horse-loads to a ton (the usual estimation), amounts to only sixteen pence the ton. In 1795, the price of coals was from four to five shillings per ton at the works. Since that time a regular advance has taken place. — " When (continues Mr. Pitt) they first began to get the coals here, it was done by removing the soil and clay which* covered them ; they were afterwards got in open pits, which however soon filled with water. Recourse was then had to draining, by laying soughs or gutters from the lowest part of the land near them, by which means the coals were procured for many years in this neighbourhood, until the upper parts or heads of the mine were generally exhausted, and the coals became scarce. In the year 1719> Lord Macclesfield, who owned an estate of about one hundred and fifty acres, full of coals, adjoining the town of Burslem, entered into an agreement # OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 59 with the owners of the low meadow lands near the church, for permission to cut a sough or gutter from thence up to his lands, for the purpose of draining his mines. The completion of this gutter furnished an abundant supply for upwards of sixty years, but the coal that lay above this gutter or drain, at length became exhausted and rendered the article scarce and dear. The proprietors of the coal lands then introduced horse-gins, and steam engines followed shortly af- terwards. The deepest engine pit in 1815, was one hundred and eleven yards ; the coals here range from north to south the whole length of the potteries, (say about nine or ten miles on the east of Burslem,) and generally dip from east to west about one foot perpendicular in every four feet in length down the dip. Towards Mole Cop, which is four or five miles north of Burslem, the coals suddenly return along Harecastle Hill, having a greater dip, and range nearly from north to south for the length of four or five miles, to the neighbourhood of Red Street, and dip south-east, from whence they again range north and south in the direction of Silver Dale, a distance of four or five miles, dipping towards the east, and heading out to the surface of the earth towards the west. It has been clearly ascertained that there are thirty-two different mines of coals, between Burslem and the Ridge of Hills a little to the east of Norten Church, of various thicknesses, generally from about three to ten feet each, lying in the order of stratum, super-stratum, &c. a list of which Mr. Pitt enumerates, and concludes his account of Burslem by stating that in 1653, the number of houses and population was so small, that in the register of an adjoining parish, it was then termed parochiella, ft. the little parish." There is another place that was formerly of trifling import, but now forms a considerable village or rather regularly built street, we mean Etruria ; it is chiefly inhabited by potters, and is situated on the side of the canal about a mile north-east of Newcastle. This place has for many years been celebrated as the source from which the productions of the talented Josiali Wedgewood have been issued from one vast manufactory, contiguous to which, upon an emi- nence, amidst handsome plantations stands the family residence. The late Mr. Wedgewood had these extensive concerns erected and named after Etruria in Italy, anciently celebrated for the exquisite quality and classical models in earthenware and which so eminently served to improve the taste of the English manufacturer. The late Josiah Wedgewood has been much noticed for the accuracy and beauty with which he executed many of the medals, busts, and statues of an- tiquity ; he was actively concerned in opposing the twenty commercial propositions with Ireland in 1785, and in supporting the commercial treaty with France of the following year ; he also published a pamphlet, entitled, " Address to the Workmen in the Pottery, 1 ' and was many years concerned in two or three prolix newspaper controversies. The following account is given of him in the Gentleman's Magazine for February, 1795. " Died, at Etruria, in Staffordshire, aged 64, Josiah Wedgewood Esq. F. R. and A.S.S. to whose indefatigable labours is owing the establishment of a manufacture that has opened a new scene of extensive commerce, unknown before to this or any other country. It is unnecessary to say that this alludes to the pottery of Staffordshire, which by the united efforts of Mr. Wedgewood, and his late partner Mr. Bentley, has been carried to a degree of perfection, both in the line of utility and ornament, that leaves all work, ancient or modern, far behind. " Mr. Wedgewood was the younger son of a potter, but derived little or no property from his father, whose possessions consisted chiefly of a small entailed estate, which descended to the 60 PICTURESQUEVIEWS eldest son. He was the master of his own fortune, and his country has been benefited in a pro- portion not to be calculated ; his many discoveries of new species of earthenwares and porcelains, his studied forms of chaste style of decoration, and the correctness and judgment with which all his works are executed under his own eye, and by artists, for the most part of his own forming, having turned the current in this branch of commerce ; for, before his time, England imported the finer earthenwares, but for more than twenty years past, he has exported them to a great annual amount, the whole of which is drawn from the earth, and from the industry of the inha- bitants, while the national taste has been improved, and its reputation raised in foreign countries. His inventions have prodigiously increased the number of persons employed in the potteries, and in the traffic and transport of its materials from distant parts of the kingdom ; and this class of manufacturers is also indebted to him for much mechanical contrivance and arrangement in their operations, his private manufactory having had for thirty years and upwards, all the effi- cacy of a public work of experiment. Neither was he unknown in the walks of philosophy ; his communications to the Royal Society shew a mind enlightened by science, and contributed to procure him the esteem of scientific men at home, and throughout Europe. His invention of a Thermometer for measuring the higher degrees of heat employed in their various arts, is of the highest importance to their promotion, and will add celebrity to his name. At an early period of his life, seeing the impossibility of extending considerably the manufactory he was engaged in on the spot which gave him birth, without the advantages of inland navigation, he was the pro- poser of the . 85 seen of an old castle formerly belonging to the Earl of Chester, and afterwards to the house Lancaster, were the walls of Newcastle t and not, as the sentence at first reading seems to imply, the walls of the castle of Chesterton.'" Dr. Plott fell into the above named error, and he proceeds to state,* that the castle of Ches- terton went to decay " as long ago as the reign of King Henry III., when the Earl of Lancas- ter built another near by, in the midst of a great pool, which he called the New Castle, that gave origin (no doubt) to the town of that name, close by it." Bishop Gibson, the editor of Cam- den, follows Dr. Plott in his mistake, and he also asserts-f- that Newcastle was " built in Henry Ill's time, by the Earl of Lancaster." The authorities which we shall cite, fully justify our interpretation of Camden, that they prove in contradiction to Plott and Gibson, that the town, as well as the castle, of Newcastle- under-Lyme, existed not only before the creation of the earldom of Lancaster, but even before the reign of Henry III. In the fifth of King John (1203) the town of Newcastle was amerced, for having changed its market-day from Sunday to Saturday 4 In the seventeenth of King John (1215) a grant was made from the crown to Ranulph-de- Blondeville, Earl of Chester, of Newcastle-under-Line, and its liberties,§ including, in all pro- bability, the manor as well as the castle of that name. The crown, however, appears shortly to have regained possession of Newcastle and all its appendages. Amongst the inquisitions re- maining in the exchequer, || there is one of early, though indeterminate date, in the reign of Henry III. stating that our Lord the King held as forfeited, the New Castle, with the town and manor, including by that name, most of the townships which are now considered parcel of the manor. The manor appears to have been granted in fee-farme by Henry III. to Gilbert Lord Segrave, in 1232,*[[ but the castle and town remained in the possession of the crown. During this period the castle was held for the king under the government of a constable,** which ap- pears to have been an office of considerable importance. In the thirty-fifth of Henry HI., the constableship was held by one of the Audley family ,ff and afterwards by William de Fenton, who appears to have been constable in the thirty-seventh and forty-second years of the same reign .++ Many of the freehold tenants of this manor were bound by their tenures, to perform the castle guard at different periods of the year. The Testa de Nevitt, which is an ancient record preserved in the exchequer, and compiled by John Nevill, a justice in Eyre, between the years 1234 and 1238. i * Plott's Natural Hist, of Staffordshire, p. 434. t Camden's Britannia, edit. 1695, p. 538. X From the record of Assises et placita Corona, taken at Lichfield on St. Matthew's day, 5th King John.— See Abbreviatio Placitorum. § Calendarium Rotulorum in the Exchequer, published 1803. p. 30. || Calendarium inquisit. post mort. vol. i. p. 202. U Magna Britannia et Hibernia, vol. v. p. 64. ** Ibid, p. 64. tt Ibid, p. 64. %t From old Grants. gg PICTURESQUE VIEWS CKOXDEN, AND CKOXDEN ABBEY. Ckoxden is a parish in Totmanslow hundred, Staffordshire, about five miles north from Uttox- eter, and one hundred and forty from London. It has varied very little in its population for the last twenty years. In 1801, the parish, iiv eluding the township of Great Yate, contained forty-three houses, and forty-three families; one hundred and thirty-seven males, and one hundred and twenty-six females ; total inha- bitants, 263. In 1821 it only contained forty-four houses, and two hundred and fifty-three in- habitants. The most remarkable object in the parish is the venerable ruins of ■ CROXDEN ABBEY, ■ . . About half a mile distant from the village, and is thus described by Mr. Pitt : " This abbey was founded and endowed with lands and revenues, by Bertram de Verdon, in the twenty-second year of the reign of Henry II. A. D. 1176, for monks of the Cistercian order. It is situate in a fertile valley, near a small rivulet called the Peake, and was for many ages, the burying- place of the Verdons. Croxden abbey is a very picturesque and extensive ruin. The principal entrance at the west end is yet entire, and consists of a most magnificent Gothic arch of excellent workmanship, as the ornamental stone cornices are yet undecayed, although exposed to the weather for nearly six centuries and a half. Above this noble arch, part of the abbey-wall rises to the height of forty feet, overgrown with ivy : this is a beautiful picturesque object, worthy of the highest ef- forts of the painter and engraver. About ninety feet from this ruin, another part of the abbey wall stands bare and grey, distinctly marking the length of the edifice. A small arch, ready to crumble into ruins, stands on the north side, between these two high walls. At the west end, besides the large and perfect arch before-mentioned, there are four small arches of exquisite workmanship, and perfectly entire. The interior has the remains of a large fire-place, and an arched door-way leads to the cemetery or court, where there is a stone coffin preserved on a level with the surface of the ground. Several other stone coffins have been discovered in these ruins, and one of lead, all of which were covered up again by Mr. Carrington, whose large and com- modious farm-house is situated near the western end of the abbey, and the ruin itself is part of his farm-yard. In a recess in Mr. Carrington's garden, a stone crucifix is preserved ; it is about two feet and a half high ; the left arm is broken off, but preserved in the recess, and, on the back of this curious relic, there is a rude representation of the Virgin and Child ensculptured, but now almost worn out by time. Croxden Church is a small stone fabric, with a belfry of wood, containing one bell. The win- OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 87 dow on the north side is built up, and the church is lighted up by three small windows on south side, and one at the east end. It is dedicated to St. Giles, and is a donative. In addition to the account already given of Croxden Abbey, Mr. Nightingale observes, " that Bertram de Verdon, in 1176, gave the Cistercian monks of Aulney in Normandy, a piece of ground, Chotes or Chotene, to build an abbey of their order." In three years this was removed to Croxden ;* where all the family of the Verdons were afterwards buried, as was also the heart of king John.-}* The remains of this abbey are in a narrow valley, watered by a small rivulet, which supplied a mill formerly in the precincts. The west end of the church, the south wall transept, part of the cloister, the outer walls of the chapter house, and some parts of the offices, may still be traced ; the whole in a style of architecture corresponding with the date of its foundation ;J the windows being lancet shaped, and the capitals of the columns foliated. In the garden of one of the farm houses is still preserved a stone cross, about three feet in length, end- ing in foliage at the points, and having a crucifix rudely sculptured on one side, and a virgin, which is now scarcely distinguishable, on the other. It was found near the east end of the church, and though the sculpture, in most places, is almost obliterated, yet traces of gilding were observable, in one or two plaGes, when it was first discovered. The permanency of this kind of stone gilding is truly astonishing. On a stone chimney-piece, in Crosby Hall, Crosby Square, Bishopgate Street, London, now occupied by the extensive warehouses of Messrs Holmes and Hall,§ there are still visible considerable portions of gilding. The ignorant curiosity of the workmen demolished many parts of it, till their depredations were discovered, and prevented by the son of their employer. Crosby Hall or Crosby House, was built by Sir John Crosbie, who was sheriff in 1470. It is, therefore not so old as Croxden abbey, by nearly three hundred years. The parish church, or chapel, of Croxden, is a small building, whose style of architecture in- dicates its age to be coeval with the foundation of the abbey ; It is valued at £12 in the king's books ; and its patron is the Earl of Macclesfield, to whom the estate belongs. The abbey, at the rapacious dissolution, was valued at £Q0. 5s. lld.|| per annum. It is said, that Cromwell the hypocrite, destroyed this abbey. Several coffins having no inscriptions have been dug up here. Near this place are two hamlets named Upper and Lower Tean, both in the parish of Checkley. Between these two hamlets is a spring of a somewhat singular character ; it is denominated the * Bishop Turner's Not. 498. Mag. Brit. 149, in Gough's Camden, vol. ii. p. 515. + This singularly unfortunate, and it must be confessed, in many respects, much misrepresented king, died at Swinshead Abbey, in Lincolnshire ; his body was interred at Worcester ; his bowels in Croxden Abbey church, in Leicestershire, the abbot being his physician ; and his heart here at Croxden. (See Nichol's History of Leicestershire, vol. ii. p. 149, and Gough's Camden, vol. ii. 515.) This was certainly making the most of the poor fallen monarch ! Perhaps the most precious portion of his relics would be the hand that signed Magna Charta. Croxden may be welcome to the heart, which reluctantly, perhaps never cheerfully, consented to the glorious deed. % Dr. Richard Rawlinson had the foundation charter of this abbey in his possession ; Dr. Rawlinson died in 1755. § The name of this latter gentleman it becomes the writer of this never te repeat, or to write, but witn a feeling of the most sincere and ardent respect and esteem. j| According to Dugdale. Speed says, £103. 6s. 5d. 83 PICTURESQUE VIEWS well in the wall, as it rises under a rock. It is said, but with what truth, may fairly be disputed, that this " unaccountable spring throws out, all tne year round, except in July and August, small bones, of different sorts, like those of sparrows, or small chickens."* Tean has an exten- sive rope manufactory. — — ■ • ■ SHELTON. This place is not of great extent, and although included with the township of Hanley, in its population &c. being contiguous, and appearing as a continuation is a distinct village and township. Mr. Pitt observes that " it contains some of the oldest and most respectable manufacturers. Very excellent porcelain, little inferior to that of the east, has long been ! manufactured here, and it possesses the advantages of a public wharf upon the Trent and Mersey navigation, which passes this place;" and as Mr. Nightingale remarks, the village of Shelton, lying at a considerable dis- tance to the north of Newcastle-under-Lyme, gave birth to Elijah Fenton, a celebrated poet of* the last century. " He was descended from an ancient family, whose estate was very considera- ble ; and was the youngest of eleven children. It was the intention of his friends, that he should take orders ; but having, while at Cambridge, embraced principles inimical to government, he became disqualified for the church, by refusing the necessary oaths. Having, therefore, been driven out a commoner of nature, excluded from the regular modes of profit and prosperity, and reduced to pick up an uncertain livelihood, he engaged himself as usher to Mr. Bonwicke, a ce- lebrated schoolmaster at Headley in Surrey, in which situation, however, he only remained for a short time, having been appointed secretary to the Earl of Orrery, who likewise placed his only son Lord Boyle under his tuition. This young nobleman entertained a degree of friendship for the young poet, almost amounting to veneration, insomuch, that after his decease he could scarcely speak of him without tears. After this he for some time kept a school for himself at Sevenoaks in Kent, which he brought into reputation, but was persuaded by Mr. St. John, with promises of a more honourable employment to relinquish it. By the recommendation of Mr. Pope, he for some time was placed in a situation, which held out to him the most flattering prospects. This was to assist Mr. Craggs, the secretary of state, in the studies which he found necessary to supply the deficiencies of his education. The death of that statesman, however, very shortly subsequent to his introduction, blasted the hopes which he might otherwise have entertained. Pope again proved serviceable to his friend, by recommending him to conduct the education of the eldest son of Lady Trumbal, at whose seat, in the neighbourhood of East Hamstead, Berk- shire, he died on the thirteenth of July, 1730. • England's Gazetteer, second Edition, 1778, vol. ii, art. Tean. OF STAFFORDSHIRE. The death of Fenton was a subject of deep regret among all men of taste ; even his brother bards greatly lamented him, being one of the few devoted to the muses, who have been fortu- nate enough to escape the malignant look of envy, unhappily too often the foible of poets. Pope, in particular, was severely affected by the event, and honoured him with the following epitaph • " This modest stone, what few vain mortals boast, May truly say, here lies an honest man, A poet, blest beyond a poet's fate, Whom heaven kept sacred from the proud and great. Foe to loud praise, and friend to learned ease, Content with science in the vale of peace ; Calmly he look'd on either life, and here Saw nothing to regret, or there to fear ; From Nature's temperate feast rose satisfied, Thank'd heaven that he had lived, that he had died." The first publication by Mr. Fenton, which made its appearance in the year 1709, was a volume of poems entitled " Oxford and Cambridge Verses.'' In 1717 a volume of his own was produced, and in 1723 his tragedy of Mariamne,* having received the approbation of the managers, was performed with great applause at one of the London theatres. This piece is founded on the story related of that lady in the third volume of the Spectator, which the inge- nious writer had collected from Josephus. He wrote, besides, a life of Milton, of which Dr. Johnson speaks in terms of high commendation, and also edited a fine edition of the works of Waller, accompanied with very valuable notes by himself. Such of Fenton's poems as were not published in the last edition of his works, are preserved in '• NichoPs Select Collection, 1 * given to the public in 1780. The personal appearance and moral character of Fenton, as well as his merits as a poet, are thus given by Dr. Johnson, with that force and discrimination for which his name is so justly celebrated : " Fenton was tall and bulky, inclined to corpulence, which he did not lessen by much exercise, for he was very sluggish and sedentary, rose late, and when he had risen, sat down to his books or papers. A woman, that once waited on him in a lodging, told him, as she said, that he would * lie a-bed and be fed with a spoon.' This, however, was not the worst that might have been prognosticated ; for Pope says, in his letters, that he died of indolence, but his immediate distemper was the gout. Of his morals and conversation, the account is uniform ; he was never named but with praise and fondness, as a man in the highest degree amiable and excellent. Such was the character given him by the Earl of Orrery, his pupil ; such is the testimony of Pope ; and such were the suffrages of all who could boast of his acquaintance. By a former writer of his life, a story is told which ought not to be forgotten. * Dr. Johnson tells us, that when shewn to Cibber, it was rejected by him with the additional insolence of advising Fenton to engage himself in some employment of honest labour, which he never could hope for from his poetry. When the play was acted at the other house, however, (Jibber's opinion was confuted by the ap- probation of the public. N «*) PICTURESQUE VIEWS " He used, in the latter part of his time, to pay his relations in the country a yearly visit. At an entertainment made for the family by an elder brother, he observed that one of his sisters, who had married unfortunately, was absent; and found, upon enquiry, that distress had made her thought unworthy of invitation. As she was at no great distance, he refused to sit at table till she was called ; and when she had taken her place, was careful to shew her particular attention." His collection of poems is now to be considered. The ode to the Sun is written upon a common plan, without uncommon sentiments; but its greatest fault is its length. No poem should be long of which the purpose is only to strike the fancy, without enlightening the under- standing by precept, ratiocination, or narrative. A blaze first pleases, and then tires the sight. Of Florelio it is sufficient to say, that it is an occasional pastoral, which implies something neither natural nor artificial, neither comic nor serious. The next ode is irregular, and therefore defective. As the sentiments are pious, they cannot easily be new ; for what can be added to topics on which successive ages have been employed ? Of the Paraphrase on Isaiah, nothing very favourable can be said. Sublime and solemn praise gains little by a change to blank verse; and the paraphrast has deserted his original, by admitting images not Asiatic, at least not Judaical : Returning peace, Dove-eyed, and rob'd in white. Of his petty poems some are very trifling, without any thing to be praised, either in the thought or expression ; he is unlucky in his competitions ; he tells the same idle tale with Congreve, and does not tell it so well. He translates from Ovid the same epistle as Pope ; but I am afraid not with equal happiness. Thomas Allen, a celebrated mathematician of the sixteenth century, according to Mr. Esdes- wicke, was born at Bucknall^ an adjoining village, in 1542.* The same author informs us he was descended from Alanus de Buckenhall, who lived in the time of Edward II. ; but few particulars are known concerning his more immediate progenitors. Where he received the rudiments of his education is uncertain; but in 1561, we find him admitted a scholar of Trinity College, Oxford. In 1567, he took his degrees of Master of Arts, and three years subsequent quitted the University, and retired to Glosterhall, where he continued his studies with great assiduity, and became celebrated for his knowledge as an antiquary and philosopher, particularly in the science of geometry. Upon the invitation of Henry, Earl of Northumberland, the Maecenas of the mathematicians of his age, he resided for some time at that nobleman's house, a circumstance which was the means of introducing him to several of the first mathematical characters at that time in England. Robert, Earl of Leicester, evinced a particular attachment to our author, and even offered him a bishopric ; but his love of ease and retirement predomi- nated over his ambition. His great knowledge of mathematics, as not unfrequently happened at that period, drew upon him the suspicions of the ignorant and vulgar, that he was a magician or * In this opinion, Dr. Plot would seem to agree ; but Puller, Wood, and Camden, say he was a native of Uttoxeter. OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 91 conjuror. Accordingly the author of a work, entitled " Leicester Commonwealth," openly accused him of using the art of figuring to further his patron's schemes, to bring about a match between himself and Queen Elizabeth. The absurdity of the accusation is manifest ; but, waving this, it is certain that the Earl placed so much confidence in his talents and secrecy, that no political transactions of moment occurred in which he did not solicit his advice. Having lived to a great age in philosophic retirement, he died at Glosterhall, in 1632. That the character of Allen stood very high, is clear from the sentiments expressed concern- ing him, by several contemporary and succeeding writers. Mr. Selden says, " he was a man of the most extensive learning and consummate judgment, the brightest ornament of the University of Oxford." Camden calls him, " skilled in most of the best arts and sciences;" and Mr. Burton, who wrote his funeral sermon, stjles him " not only the Coryphoeus, but the very soul and sun of all the mathematicians of his time." He was curious and indefatigable in collecting scattered manuscripts, in different departments of science, which are frequently quoted by other authors, and mentioned as having been deposited in the Bibliotheca Alleniana.* TAMWORTH. Tam worth is very pleasantly situated, the south side of the town being bordered with mea- dows, and the north, by a fertile, well-enclosed, country. Leland particularly notices it which he thus describes : — " The towne of Tamworth, having a celebrate market, is of ancient memory, and after the Danes had razed and defaced it, Ethelthleda, lady of the Merches, and sister of King Edward, sen. repayred it. The towne, in respect of the bottom, where Tame and Ancre runne, is sett on the declive of a small hill, and the principall street and buildings of it lie by west and east. " The north part and side of the principal street is in Staffordshire, and on this side is the paroch-church of Tamworth. The south side, and part of this street, lying towards the right ripe of Anker, is in Warwickshire, and the castle also, which standeth at the very point of the confluence of Anker and Tame. I saw but three notable things, the paroch-church, the castle, and the bridge. *' The Castle of Tamworth standeth on a meetly high ground, on the southe part of the towne, hard upon the ripe of Anker at the mouth of it. The Marmions, Freviles, and Ferrers, have been lords of it since the Conquest.*'!* * Plot's Hist. Staff, p. 276. Gent. Biog. Diet, t Itinerary, Vol. IV. p. 189. 92 PICTUItESQUEVIEWS In addition to what we have already noticed it is remarked, that " The architecture of the castle now remaining seems to have been of various periods. The hall is large, but exceed- ingly rude and comfortless. This, and some other parts, appear of a very ancient date. The rooms and stair-cases are most of them irregular and uncouth ; yet, by Leland's account, it seems the greater part was built since his time. ' The base-court,' says he, ' and the great ward of the castle, is clean decayed, and the wall fallen downe, and therein be now but houses of office of noe notable building. The Dungeon-hill yet standeth, and a great round tower of stone, wherein Mr. Ferrers dwelleth, and now repaireth it/* Such was its state in Henry VII I/s time. " There are two noble rooms, comparatively modern, fitted up with oak wainscot, and round the cornice of the largest, the arms of the family, impaling every match to the earliest periods. From the windows of this room, are pleasing and rich views over the river (which runs at the foot of the Castle-mount,) to the meadows and woodlands, where formerly the park was. Lord Leicester, it is said, once had thoughts of making this castle his residence ; and, for that pur- pose, had Wyatt down to survey it ; but finding, from the antiquity of the greater part of the building, and the neglect of inhabitation here for nearly a century, the scheme not very practicable, he gave it up : it is still, however, kept in external repair. M From the Castle leads is a noble, circular, view of a rich woodland country in Staffordshire, Warwickshire, Leicestershire, and Derbyshire. Canwell, the elegant new mansion of Sir Robert Lawley, Bart, appears to great advantage from hence.-f-" Mr. Pitt truly remarks, that " The beauty of the situation of Tamworth is seen from the Castle to great advantage, varied with rich meadows, two bridges over the Tame and the Anker, and rivers wandering picturesquely along the country. Michael Drayton, born on the banks of the Anker, thus celebrates that river and his mistress : — " Clear Anker, on whose silver-sanded shore, My soul-shrin'd saint, my fair idea lies : A blessed brook, whose milk-white swans adore Tuy chrystal stream, refined by her eyes; Where sweet myrrh-breathing zephyr in the spring, Gently distils his nectar-dropping showers ; Where nightingales in Arden sit and sing, Amongst the dainty dew-impearled flowers. » # * * Fair Arden ! thou my Tempe art alone ; And thou, sweet Anker ! art my Helicon." Having recently given an account of this town, in our History and Typography of War- wickshire, of which county, with that of Staffordshire, it forms an almost equal portion. We subjoin the following description, as given in that work: Tamworth is almost equally divided by the rivers Taint; and Anker ; the western half of * Leland's Itinerary Vol. IV. p. 181. t Shaw's Hist, and Antiq. of Staff. Vol. I. p. 419—80. OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 93 the town and the church standing in Staffordshire, and the eastern part in Warwickshire. Each part sends a member to Parliament. This borough and market town is pleasantly situated on a rising ground, at the conflux of these rivers, and near the great navigable canal. It is 8 miles S. E. of Lichfield, and 114 from London. In 1811, the eastern or Warwickshire portion contained three hundred and eighteen houses inhabited, six uninhabited, and the total popula- tion was one thousand six hundred and sixty four. In 1821, it contained three hundred and ninety three houses and one thousand nine hundred and thirty eight inhabitants. The western or Staffordshire portion of the town, in 1821, contained three hundred and twenty six houses and one thousand six hundred and thirty six inhabitants. In 1826, the Warwickshire portion of the borough was valued at „£1762, and its proportion to the county rate was £1. 6s. lOd. The annual value of the Castle, &c. was estimated at «£446, and its proportion to the county rate was £1. 17s. 2d. Tarn worth is considered one of the oldest towns in each of the counties of which it forms so interesting a portion, and considerable celebrity and interest is attached to the earliest period of its history, not only from its being the residence of the powerful and warlike Offa, from whence he granted charters of lands free of taxation, in perpetuity to the churches of St. Peter and St. Mary, at Worcester, but it continued in the hands of others of the Mercian Kings, until invaded by the Danes. Burhed, the last of the Mercian Kings, being intimidated, fled to Rome about the year 874. Alfred succeeded to the throne, but it was at an unfavourable period, for his kingdom was overrun by the Northmen, and although Tam worth had been strongly fortified, its palaces was destroyed, and continued in ruins until restored by Ethelfleda, the daughter of Alfred, in 914. She died in 918 or 919, but not without having maintained and made a noble resistance against the Danes, and driving them from the territories they had usurped in this quarter. They, however, continued to make incursions in the midland counties until subdued by Athelstan, who was succeeded in 941 by his brother Edmund, then only eighteen years of age. He was shortly after overpowered by Anlaf, who headed the Northerns, and obtained victories over Edmund, at Tam worth and Leicester, and after surrendered to him that portion of England, north of Watling-street, on condition that the survivor should become sole possessor of the whole. Anlaf dying the year following, Edmund again became possessor of Northumbria. A royal mint, it appears, was established at Tamworth, after its seat of regal power had been discontinued, and some specimens of its coins are still to be met with. There was also a convent here founded by St. Editha. Some interesting lithographic views of Tamworth and its principal buildings have recently been drawn by Mr. Hamel, and published, with descriptions. The north view is taken from the improved Gun-gate approach to the town, where the celebrated Abbey of St. Modwena was erected. It was, at one period, the manor and residence of the Zouches, but now converted into attractive sources of health, in valuable baths for the invalid. The remains of Spitlall Chapel, formerly a chapel of ease to Tamworth, now transposed into a cottage and barn, stand near this entrance of the town ; on the left is the inconsiderable village of Perry-croft ; the road here was crossed by the king's dyke or fosse, which formed the boundary of the castle. The moat-house on the north bank of the Tame, Mr. Hamel states, " was built about the time 94 PICTURESQUE VIEWS of Elizabeth, by the Comberfords, now the residence of Wm. Tongue, Esq. The Moat-house has since been in the possession of the families of Fox, Boothby, Littleton, Wolferstan, and Abney. In 1767, it was purchased by the Marquess Townshend, and inhabited by John Willing- ton, Esq , subsequently by the late marquess. At his death, it passed into the hands of Robert Woody, M. U. and was fitted up for the reception of insane patients. Under the auspices of Mrs. Woody, it still affords to the unfortunate victim of insanity, a retired and most eligible place of refuge. The castle, built upon an artificial mount, forms the most interesting feature of antiquity of the place, and is said to have been originally connected with the Dungeon of the Lady Ethelfleda. The Marmions possessed it till the twentieth of Edward I., from them it passed to William Mortein, on his marriage to the daughter and co-heir of the Marmions, It afterwards came into the Frevile family,* and subsequently to that of the Ferrers, in the reign of Henry VI. The Comptons afterwards succeeded to it. The present proprietor is George Marquess Townsend, in right of Lady C. Compton, Baroness de Ferrers, daughter of the Earl of Northampton. Its present respectable inhabitant is Thomas Brammall, Esq. The church, which is large and handsome, is rich in the architectural taste of different and distant periods. It was made collegiate on the arrival of the Marmions, and remained under that designation until the reign of Edward VI. It contains several handsome monuments, and has a massive tower, to which it lias the peculiarity of having a double stair-case, the roof of the one being the floor of the other, and each having a separate entrance and exit. Of the church, Mr. Hamel states, that "in the year 1809, this noble building underwent a complete repair, at the expence of more that .£4000 ; part of which was liquidated by the receipts of an oratorio, instituted for that purpose. Among other improvements, a fine-toned choir instrument was added to the former organ. In removing the old pews, the tesselated pavement was found, which now forms the floor between the railing and the altar. Although this church is capable of containing three thousand persons, its revenue is lamentably small, and utterly inadequate as a remuneration for the heavy duties ordinarily imposed upon its mi- nister. One sermon on the Sunday is alone required of him. Three services, however, are regularly performed by the present vicar, the Rev. Francis Blick, whose zeal for the welfare of the church is only equalled by his exemplary conduct as a pastor, and by the glowing excel- lencies and benificence of his private character." Tamworth is large and well built, with two bridges over the river. In the town are places of worship for dissenters, and an hospital founded by Guy the bookseller, who also founded the hospital, bearing his own name, in London. It also contains a Free Grammar School,— the present one in Gun-gate was erected in 1667 ; the original school was endowed by Queen Elizabeth in 1558 ; she granted an annual stipend to the master; various annuities have sub- • Baldwin de Frevile, one of Alexander's descendants, in the first of Richard II. on account of the tenure of this Castle, claimed the office of Royal Champion, and to do the service appertaining, viz. on the day of the Coronation to ride completely armed upon a barhed horse, into Westminster Hall, and there to challenge the combat against any who would gainsay the king's title. But this office was adjudged to Sir James Dymoke, to whom the Manor of Scrivelby, which had also been held by Robert de Marmion, had descended by another of the co-heiresses of Philip de Marmion, and in that family the office still continues. OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 95 sequently been added to it, Mr Hamel remarks, that " the grammar school of Tamworth was once an institution of celebrity. Many of the neighbouring gentlemen were educated there. It had, however, fallen to decay, until the Rev. T. P. Lammin, its present master, was elected in 1827, by the corporation, who are the trustees. Under his auspices, the school bids fair to recover its ancient reputation and utility. His zealous exertions have already been signally rewarded by the public confidence. The school is free only to boys resident in the bo- rough. The exterior of the building has acquired from age a sombre aspect ; but within it is light and spacious. The master's desk is surmounted by a tablet inscribed with the names of those who contributed to the expence of its erection. The subscription amounted to £]58. 16s. 6d. Mr. Lammin has put up a corresponding memorial of the contributions raised by his exer- tions for its repair in 1827- The amount of this was o£169. 7s. Sd. 1 ' A National School has also been founded by Sir Robert Peel. Tamworth is governed by two bailiffs (one for each county) twenty four burgesses, a town clerk (one of the burgesses), &c. with a high steward, recorder, and under steward. The town-clerk, with the two bailiffs, have the power to call courts, being appointed Serjeants at mace, can be justices of the peace in the borough, keep a three weeks court of record, and a court leet twice a year, with the superior and inferior officers, &c. It was first incorporated by Queen Elizabeth. The number of voters for the two members of Parliament for the borough are limited to the number of two hundred and sixty three, com- posed of inhabitants, being housekeepers, paying scot and lot, and not receiving alms. The returning officers are the bailiffs. This town has a considerable manufacture of narrow cloths, also of flax and spinning yarn. Tanning and calico printing are the principal trades carried on. Sir Robert Peel, who purchased the Marquis of Bath's share in this borough (being the joint property of George Marquess Townshend, and the Marquis of Bath), established some extensive manufactories in this district. Here are two banking-houses. The market is held on Tuesdays. There are occasional races in the Calford meadow. Fairs, May 4, July 26, and October 24. In the King's Dyke, a large trench so called, but now partly filled up, the bones of men and horses, and implements of war, have been dug up ; and several charters are dated from the royal seat at Tamworth, where Ethelfleda (the excellent lady of the Mercians), the daughter of King Alfred, died in 918. Very little is known of this town immediately after the conquest. Dugdale remarks, that the Warwickshire part of the town " answered two marks in aid in the fifteenth of Henry II. and in the twenty-first of Henry III. four pounds sixteen shillings for the ferm thereof." The town was an ancient demesne of the crown, and continued in the hands of the king till the close of the reign of Henry III. at which period it was let to Philip Marmion, during his life, and afterwards reverted to the crown. The Warwickshire portion was granted to the inhabitants of the borough, by Edward II. At about four miles distance from the town, is Pooley-hall, the seat of Colonel Finch. It appears that this estate formed part of those belonging to the Marmions of Tamworth Castle, and after passing through several intermediate hands, came into the family of Cockain, in the latter part of the fourteenth century. Mr. Brewer, in his history of this county, states, that it is ascertained that Sir John Cockain resided at Pooley in the reign of Henry IV. and his descen- dants for many generations, made this their principal seat. The present mansion was erected 96 PICTURESQUE VIEWS by Sir Thomas Cockain, in the time of Henry VIII. and is a fine irregular building, varying in character between the embattled style of the previous troubled and suspicious age>, and the open amplitude of construction then first growing into practice. UTTOXETER. Uttoxetee, a market town and parish in Totmanslow hundred, is delightfully and healthily situated on a gentle eminence, skirting the western bank of the river Dove, at the distance of six miles from Abbot's Bromley, fourteen from Stafford, and one hundred and thirty five north west of London. In 1821, it contained nine hundred and twenty six houses, and four thousand six hundred and fifty eight inhabitants ; six hundred and seventy-seven families, the greater part of whom were then employed in manufactories, and in various branches of trade. A con- siderable portion of the former is in the different branches of ironmongery, from the town being almost encompassed with extensive forges ; the trade having greatly encreased for several years past, owing to the facility of canal navigation, and the communication it embraces with the Trent, the Avon, the port of London, and the eastern and western oceans. Fairs, February 9> April 15, May 6, June 3, July 5 and 31, September 1 and 20, November 11 and 27- The town is remarkable for instances of the longevity of its inhabitants, and is in itself a place of great antiquity, as it is said to have been a British settlement, even before the Roman invasion. The counties of Stafford and Derby are connected here by a noble stone bridge, thrown over the river Dove. The tower has been much enlarged and improved, and, indeed, almost re- built, from having formerly sustained considerable injury from fire. It is now commodious, large, and well built ; its population has nearly doubled within the last twenty years. The market is on Wednesday, and is noted for its abundant supply of cheese, butter, hogs, corn, and all kinds of provisions. The market-house is nearly in the centre of the town, and has several good streets branching from it. The supply of agricultural produce to this town is very great, arising from the fertile and luxuriant meadows and pasture lands, which are said to equal any part of England. Mr. Pitt remarks, that " the inhabitants of Uttoxeter and its vicinity, derive much of their opulence from the fertile pastures and meadows on the banks of the Dove. They include many hundred acres of land, impregnated with a fertilizing sediment of mud and calcareous earth, deposited from time to time by the inundations of the river. The her- bage is very fine, without any intermixture of rushes or other aquatic plants, and principally consists of grasses of the common sort. OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 97 The plain on the Staffordshire bank of the Dove, opposite Uttoxeter, is nearly a mile in breadth, and comprises several thousand acres of luxuriant pasturage for black cattle, sheep, and a few horses. A very small proportion of this extensive space is fenced in for hay, in con- sequence of the uncertainty and suddenness of the inundations of the Dove ; for a great fall of rain, or the sudden thaw of snow in the Moorlands, causes a rapid and resistless flood, which soon overflows the banks of the river, and covers the level fields to a great extent ; insomuch, that it requires much vigilance in the proprietors of flocks and herds to preserve them from drowning. The graziers, on an average, pay two pounds an acre for this excellent pasturage. The parish church is an ancient edifice, but not remarkable for any peculiar interior em- bellishments, or for its general structure. There are several meeting-houses for Dissenters, and the Quakers and Methodists are very numerous and respectable here. There is also a free school, founded and endowed by the celebrated Thomas Allen, a great mathematician, who, according to Fuller and Camden, was born here. The late highly distinguished Admiral, Lord Gardner, was also born in this place, on the 12th April, 1742. Mr. Nightingale gives the following account of him : — " He was the eighth son of Lieutenant-colonel Gardner, of the eleventh regiment of dragoons. Having, at an early period, shewn a strong bias towards the naval service, he was rated, when fourteen years old, as a midshipman, on board the Medway, of sixty guns, then under the im- mediate orders of Captain Sir Peter Denis, an officer of distinguished merit. In this vessel, Mr. Gardner remained for two years, during which time he was present in an action, in which the Due d'Aquitaine French ship of the line was taken. From the Medway, our young mid- shipman afterwards accompanied his captain, first on board the Namur, and afterwards into the Dorsetshire. In the former, he served under Admiral Hawke, during the expedition against Rochfort ; and, while on board the latter, was present at the capture of the Raisonable, on which occasion, Captain Denis put in practice the plan now adopted by the new school, of not firing a single ball till within a few yards of the enemy's ship. He likewise bore a share in the general engagement, which took place off Belleisle, in 1769> between the British and French fleets, commanded by Sir Edward Hawke, and the Marshal de Conflans. Mr. Gardner, havings now being five years in constant service, was appointed Lieutenant on board of the Bellona, after the customary examinations. In this station, he distinguished himself at the capture of Le Courageux, whereupon he was raised to the rank of master and commander, and appointed to the Raven of sixteen guns. After the lapse of four years, he was made Post in the Preston of fifty guns, which had been fitted out as the flag ship of Rear-admiral Parry, whom he accom- panied to Port Royal, in Jamaica. During the whole time of his being stationed here, Great Britain was at peace with all the nations of Europe ; so that the only circumstance which oc- curred, requiring notice in this sketch, was his marriage with Susannah Hyde, only daughter of Francis Oale, Esq. a planter in Liquania. This lady having soon brought him a numerous family, and being ambitious himself of rising in the service, he made every effort to obtain an appointment as soon as the American contest began. Accordingly, he was nominated to the command of the Maidstone frigate, in which he sailed for the West Indies early in 1778 ; and in the course of that year, was so fortunate as to make a rich capture on the coast of America. On the fourth of November, he fell in with the Lion, a French man-of-war, having on board Q 98 PICTURESQUE VIEWS fifteen hundred hogsheads of tobacco, and after a severe action, compelled her to surrender. With this prize, he sailed for Antigua ; and was, soon after his arrival, promoted by Admiral Byron to the command of the Sultan of seventy-four guns. In the drawn battle, which was fought some time subsequent with the French fleet, under Count de Estaing, off the island of Grenada, Captain Gardner led the van, and greatly distinguished himself. His ship, however, suffered so much, that he was ordered to Jamaica, from whence he shortly after sailed for England, when the Sultan was discharged. He did not, however, remain long out of commis- sion, having been appointed to the Duke in the course of a few months, with which ship he sailed to join the fleet in the West Indies, then under the orders of Sir George Rodney, and was fortunate enough to arrive in time to participate in the glorious victory of the twelfth of April, 1782. On that memorable day, his ship was the first to break through the enemy's line of battle, according to the new plan of attack, suggested by Mr. Clerke, of Eldon, and then, for the first time, put in practice. At one period of this action, the Duke, in conjunc- tion with the Formidable and Namur, had to sustain the fire of eleven of the enemy's ships. Soon after this triumph, the American war terminated, and peace continued for several years to shed her benignant influence over the several nations of Europe. During this period, Captain Gardner was employed in different capacities. For some time, he acted as Commodore on the Jamaica station, and in 1790? was appointed a lord of the Admiralty, when he likewise obtained a seat in Parliament. In the year 1793, having been raised to the rank of Rear-admiral of the Blue, he hoisted his flag on board the Queen, of ninety-eight guns, in which he sailed as commander-in-chief to the Leeward islands. Soon after this event, finding the disputes between the republicans and royalists in the colony of Martinico to run very high, and being earnestly pressed by the latter to effect a descent on the island, accordingly Major General Bruce landed with three thousand men ; but that officer judged it expedient to re-embark again, almost immediately, being satis- fied that the republican party was too strong to afford just hopes of success, in the royal cause. Admiral Gardner now returned to England, and the following year bore a part in the action of the first of June, under the gallant Earl Howe. On this occasion, his conduct was conspicuous in the extreme, his ship having suffered more than any other in the fleet, with the exception of the Brunswick. In consequence, he not only was particularly thanked by the commander-in- chief, but was appointed major-general of marines, and created a baronet of Great Britain. 1 On the 22nd June, 1795, Sir Alan was present at the action off Port l'Orient, when the French fleet only saved itself from total destruction by a timely flight. Two years after this event, when a dangerous mutiny had broken out at Portsmouth, he manifested a degree of firmness and resolution, during that trying period, worthy of his high character as a British naval officer. From this time, he continued to serve in the channel fleet till the close of the year, 1799, when be was sent, with sixteen sail of the line, to re-inforce the fleet off Cadiz, and in the Mediter- ranean. Perceiving, however, that little danger was to be apprehended in these quarters he returned, with nine sail of the line, accompanied by the convoy from Lisbon. In 1800, we once more find him serving in the channel fleet ; but he was soon after appointed to succeed Admiral Kingsmill, the naval commander in Ireland, being previously raised to the dignity of an Irish peer. This command he continued to hold till the year 1807, when he hoisted his flag OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 99 as Admiral of the channel fleet ; which ill health, however, soon compelled him to relinquish. He died in 1810, and was buried in the abbey church of Bath, with the grandeur and solem- nity due to his rank and merit. Lord Gaidner's political career was not distinguished by any circumstance of great moment. He sat in three successive parliaments. His first election took place in 1790, when he was re- turned one of the representatives for the town of Plymouth. In 1796, he was colleague to Mr. Fox, in the representation of Westminster. On this occasion, he was opposed by Mr. John Home Tooke, whose wit, satire, and eloquence, were more alarming to the Admiral, than a shower of cannon balls from an enemy's fleet. Notwithstanding this circumstance, however, he once more offered himself as a candidate for the same city, and was again successful. At this time, Mr. Fox, in addressing the electors, said, " A noble Admiral has been proposed to you. I certainly cannot boast of agreeing with him in political opinions ; but whom could the electors pitch upon more worthy of their choice than the noble lord, in his private character universally respected, and a man who has served his country with a zeal, a gallantry, a spirit, and a splendour, that will reflect upon him immortal honour ?"* This place also gave birth to Sir Simon Degge, an antiquary principally known for his M. S. notes on Plott's Natural History of Staffordshire. He died at the advanced age of ninety-two.-f* LEEK. This principal market town and parish, in Totmanslow hundred, is situated thirteen miles south-east from Macclesfield, and one hundred and fifty-five from London, by Lichfield, standing on a pleasant eminence near the river Churnet. In 1817, in contained thirteen streets and lanes ; the former, well paved and clean, are graced by many handsome and extensive shops, and the residences of the silk manufacturers and professional gentleman are extremely elegant. The population in 1811, appears to have been as follows: —Four thousand one hundred and eighty-six inhabitants, {viz.) one thousand nine hundred and twelve males, and two thousand two hundred and seventy-four females, of which number two thousand six hundred and eleven were returned as being employed in trade and manufactures, of the latter, particularly in ribbons, silk, twist, and buttons. The number of houses were stated at eight hundred and sixty-seven, but Mr. Nightingale believes them to far exceed that number. Mr. Pitt, in 1817, states, that " this town, including Leek-Frith township, contained nine hundred and fifty-four • Imperial and County Annual Register, for 1810. + Gough's Camden, II. p. 516. 100 PICTURESQUE VIEWS houses ; nine hundred and seventy-two families ; two thousand and twenty-three males ; two thousand three hundred and ninety females ; total inhabitants, four thousand four hundred and thirteen." He also says, that " about two-thirds of the men, women, and children in Leek, are employed in various branches of the silk manufacture, which consist, principally, of shawls, handkerchiefs, ribbons, ferrets, twist, and sewing silks. In 1821, Capper gives the population of Leek, alone, as follows, viz.— eight hundred and thirty-five houses, and three thousand seven hundred and three inhabitants, of whom six hundred families were chiefly em- ployed in trade, and in the manufacture of the above-named articles. (Leek-Frith contained one hundred and forty-nine houses, and eight hundred and six inhabitants.) The town, since that period, has continued to increase considerably, notwithstanding the vast fluctuations which have subsequently taken place in the silk trade. The church, an ancient structure upon an elevated site, has a handsome square tower, with six bells ; and at the south-east corner of the chancel, stand the remains of an ancient cross, about ten feet high. The tower of the church has four pinnacles, surmounted by gilt globes and vanes ; its exterior is a pleasing object from various points of the surrounding country; the interior is peculiarly clean and neat. In the church are some monuments of the familes of the Ansons, and the Wolselys — the burial place of the former resembles an Egyptian catacomb. The monument of Sir William Wolsely has an inscription describing his accidental death, which occurred on the 8th July, 1728, by the bursting of a mill-dam, in the neighbourhood of Langdon, from which circumstance he was drowned in his chariot : his four horses were also drowned, but the coachman providentially escaped, from being carried, by the impetuosity of the torrent, into an orchard, from whence he was taken after the flood had subsided. This melancholy accident arose from an amazing heavy rain, and violent thunder storm." In the neighbourhood of Leek, at Blue-hills, are coal mines, whence a salt stream issues, which gives the earth a rusty colour, and mixed with an infusion of galls, produces a liquid as black as ink. In continuation, Mr. Nightingale notices, that " This town is remarkable also for the follow- ing singular circumstance : — By the intervention of craggy mountains, at a considerable distance westward of the town, the sun sets twice in the same evening, at a certain time of the year ; for after it sets behind the top of the mountain, it breaks out again on the northern side of it, which is steep, before it reaches the horizon in its fall : so that, within a very few miles, the inha- bitants have the rising sun when he has, in fact, past his meridian." " The manor was the estate of one Algarus Ca, before the Conquest ; and in the Con- queror's hands, Reg. 20 ; but it was, sixth Stephen, the estate of Ranulph de Gernoiis, the fourth Earl of Chester, a great man in King Stephen's time, in whose reign, Anno Dom. 1153, he died, being poisoned, at it was suspected, by William Peverell and others. His wife Maud, daughter of Robert, Earl of Gloucester, base son of King Henry I. was the foundress of Repton Priory, in Derbyshire, and, surviving her husband, in the thirty-second of Henry II. held the lordship, Wadington, in dowry.* Ranulph was a person of singular piety in his days; and, among many other benefactions, to divers monasteries in several counties, as to the nuns of * See the Topographer, Vol. II. p. 256. OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 101 Chester, monks of Geroudon, in Leicestershire, &c. he gave tythes of his mill in this place to the monks of St. Werberge, at Chester. His heir and successor in his earldom was Hugh, sur- named Kiviliock, a town in Powis, in Merionethshire, where he was born. He died at his seat in this town, in the year 1181, twenty-seventh of Henry II. and was succeeded by Ranulph, his son and heir, who gave this manor to the monks of the abbey Dieu le Creyse, adjoining."* That the Romans made frequent incursions into these parts is evident, from various concur- ring circumstances ; and that the neighbourhood of Leek, in particular, has been the scene of some signal action, fought between the Britons and their invaders, is clear, from the circum- stance of several pieces of Roman and British arms having been, from time to time, discovered in its immediate vicinity. Dr. Plott,-f- speaking of the manner in which the Britons used to head their arrows, writes thus : " Nor did the Britons only head their arrows with flint, but also their matarae, or British darts, which were thrown by those that fought in Essedis,]: whereof, I guess, this is one I had given me, found near Leek, by my worthy friend, Mr. Thomas, Gent, curiously jagged at the edges, with such like teeth as a sickle,^j and otherwise wrought upon the flat, by which we may conclude, not only that these arrow and spear heads are all artificial, whatever is pretended, but also that they had anciently some way of working flints, by the tool, which may be seen by the marks, as well as they had of the Egyptian porphyry." Whatever truth there may be in this conjecture, it is enough for our present purpose to shew, as we have just remarked, that these warlike instruments, found in this part, prove the extent of the Roman invasion, into these remote districts of the kingdom ; and the reluctance with which the ab-original inhabitants of these islands yielded to the power of their invaders. This town gave birth to the founder of the earldom of Macclesfield. The family was founded by Thomas Parker, the person of whom we now proceed to give some account. He was the son of Thomas Parker, an attorney of this place. The name was originally written Le Parker, as it is evident from our records. " William le Parker, in 1271,|| had a grant of free warren in all his lands in Eccles, Lesingham, Hapesburg, Brumsted, and Shaleham, in the county of Norfolk. Thomas Parker § was seated at Bulwel, and was a person of such ample possessions, that in the reign of Richard II. he married Elizabeth, daughter and heir of Adam de Gotham, son of Thomas de Gotham, of Lees, son of Roger de Gotham of Lees, near Nor- ton, in the county of Derby, of which lordship he was also owner, and now retains the name of Norton Lees. He had, by the same Elizabeth, three sons : Robert, who continued the line ; Thomas, of Norton Lees, who had an only daughter, married to Thomas Moore, of Green Hill ; and William, seated at Shirland, in Derbyshire." Robert Parker, his eldest son, was seated at Norton Lees, and, with his younger brother William, was certified, in twelfth of Henry VI., among the gentlemen of the county of Derby ;** who then, pursuant to an act of Parliament, made oath for the observance of the laws, for themselves and retainers. * Magna Brit. Vol. V. p. 99. t P. 396, 397. J C. Jul. Caesaris Commentarior de bello Gallico, lib. 4. U Dr. Plott has given a drawing of this, Tab. xxxiii. Fig. 2. || ("art. 56. Hen. III. p. 1. § Ex Stemmate, and visit of Derbyshire, 1611. ** Fuller's Worthies, in Derbyshire; im PICTURESQUE VIEWS Robert, having married Elizabeth, daughter and co-heir of John Birley, of Barnes, had issue several children, of whom the eldest son, John Parker, of Norton Lees, was of full age in the twelfth of Henry VI. ; for lie, also, being written of Norton* made oath, with his father, for the observation of the laws. This John, married Ellen, daughter of Roger North, of Walksingham, in Nottinghamshire, ancestor to the present Earl of Guilford, by whom he had issue five sons, and four daughters : John Parker, of Norton Lees, the eldest, married Elizabeth, daughter to Ralph Eyre, of Alfreton, and had issue three sons ; John, Henry, and Anthony ; and a daughter, Margaret. Henry, the fourth son of John Parker, by Hellen North, was groom of the chamber to Henry VIII., but left no issue. William the fifth was sewer to that king, and seated at Luton, in Bedfordshire ; and married Margaret, daughter to John Wroth, of Durane Enfield, Mid- dlesex, Esq. by whom he bad an only daughter, Barbara, his heir, married to John Wick- ham, of Henfield. Thomas Parker, second brother to the said Henry and William, married , daughter and heir of Parker, of his own family, by whom he had issue William Parker, of Ashborne, in Derbyshire, who had three sons; George Parker, of Nether- Lees ; Rowland, and Edward. George married Barbara, daughter of Buxley, of Berkshire, and had issue William Parker, of Parwich, in Derbyshire, who died in 1631, aged seventy- eight, having wedded Elizabeth, daugher to Humphry Wilson, and had issue Thomas Parker, the father of the Chancellor, of whom we now proceed to give such an account as the scanty materials, that have been recorded of him, will afford. " Under the direction of his father, he first applied himself to the study of the law, and grew so eminent in his profession, that he was appointed one of the council to Queen Anne ; and, being called to the degree of serjeant-at-law, June 8th, 1 705, the motto of the rings de- livered, on that occasion, to Queen Anne, and Prince George of Denmark, was Moribus, Armis, Legibus. He was the same day appointed the queen's Serjeant, and had the honour of knight- hood conferred on him. He was member of Parliament for Derby, from 1705 to 1708. On March 5th, 1709—10, he was constituted Lord-chief-justice of the court of King's Bench ; and, on the demise of the queen, was one of the lords justices till the arrival of her successor from Hanover ; who, on March 10th, 1715 — 16, created him a baron of this kingdom, by the style and title of Lord Parker, Baron of Macclesfield, in the county of Chester." Bishop Burnet -f* says, that he had just been one of the managers of Sacheverel's trial, and distinguished himself in a very particular manner in it. On the death of Holt, the Lord-chief- Justice, which took place during this celebrated trial, Parker was constituted in his place ; " which great promotion," says Burnet, " seemed an evident demonstration of the Queen's ap- proving the prosecution ; for none of the managers had treated Sacheverel so severely as he had done ; yet secret whispers were pretty confidently set about, that though the Queen's affairs put her on acting the part of one that was pleased with the scene, yet she disliked it all, and would take the first occasion to shew it.* To return to the time of Parker's elevation to the title of baron ; nearly two years after, his • Fuller's Worthies in Derbyshire. t Own Time, Vol. 2. p. M0— S43. OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 105 majesty was pleased to deliver the Great Seal to his lordship, and to declare him Chancellor of Great Britain ; and, on the 14th of May, 1718, two days afterwards, he was sworn at Ken- sington, the king present in council, and took his place at the board accordingly : he was con- gratulated upon his promotion, by the university of Cambridge. He was one of the lords justices whilst George I. was at Hanover ; being so appointed, May 9th, 1719. On June 4th of that year, he was appointed Custos Rotulorum of the county of Worcester. On the 5th of November, 1721,* he was advanced to the dignities of Viscount Parker, of Ewelme, in Oxfordshire, and Earl of Macclesfield, in the county of Chester, in tail-male, to hold the dignities of lady Parker, baroness of Macclesfield, viscountess Parker of Ewelme, and countess of Macclesfield, to Elizabeth his daughter, wife of William Heathcote, Esq., and to the heirs male of her body. This tide of honour was suddenly interrupted ; for in June, 1725, his lordship was im- peached on charges of corruption ; was tried at the bar of the house, and unanimously pro- nounced guilty; in consequence of which, he was removed from his high office, and fined ot'SOjOOO.-f This was certainly a heavy and severe sentence ; which, had this unfortunate chancellor lived and erred in later times, would, doubtless, have passed away as one of those many things which, however, our forefathers might have shuddered at them, are now as common and as obvious as the sun at noon-day. Of this distinguished, but unfortunate Earl, Mr. Noble X writes as follows : " This every way distinguished character was the son of Thomas Parker, an attorney at Leek, in Stafford- shire ; in the chancel of which church 1 have read the inscription on his grave stone. He left his son about .£100 per annum. He received the Great Seal May llth,^[ 1708, which he held till January 4th, 1724—5. It was an extraordinary event, that Lord Macclesfield, one of the great ornaments of the peerage, who had so long presided at the administration of justice, should himself be arranged as a criminal ; be convicted of mal-practices ; and sentenced to pay a fine of <£30,000 as a punishment for his offence : that a second Lord Chancellor of England should be impeached by the grand inquest of the nation, for corruption of office ; and be, like his great predecessor, Lord St. Albans, found guilty of the charge. The prosecution was carried on with great virulence ; and though rigid justice, indeed, demanded a severe sentence ; yet party zeal and personal animosity were supposed to have had their weight in that which were passed upon him. The whole fine was exacted, and actually paid by his lordship and his son, notwithstanding the favourable disposition that was shewn, in a certain quarter, to relieve him in part by a considerable donation. It is certain, there had been gross mismanagement in the offices of the masters in Chancery, by which the suitors had been great sufferers ; and it appeared that those places had been sometimes conferred upon persons who had evidently paid for them a valuable consideration. The public cry against corruption, in high stations, was loud and long ; and it was not thought prudent to stay the proceedings against the supreme judge in the kingdom. The statute, on which the chancellor was impeached, had, indeed, grown into disuse ; but it was still a law : a breach of it was proved, and the consequence was inevitable * Bill signat, 8 Geo. I. t Coote's Hist, of Eng. Vol. VIII. 265, et seq. £ Continuation; of Granger's Biog. Hist, of Eng., III. p. 90. II It was delivered May l^tlu 104 PICTURESQUE VIEWS Lord Macclesfield was a man of learning, and a patron of it. Bishop Pierce, of Rochester, among others, owed his first introduction to preferment to his lordship's encouragement. He was also very eminent for his skill in his profession ; but rather great than amiable in his general character. He was austere, and not deemed sufficiently attentive to the gentlemen of his court, to whom his manners are represented to have been harsh and ungracious, unlike the mild and complacent behaviour of his predecessor, Lord Cowper. His lordship passed the remainder of his life in a learned retirement, much devoted to the studies of religion, of which he had always been a strict and uniform observer." Such is the character of this great man, (for, after all, he was a great man,) given by a learned and able pen : but how wilful corruption — criminal mal- practices — an abuse of the most exalted trusts and privileges— harsh, ungracious, and domineer- ing dispositions, can be reconciled with a strict and uniform observance of religious duties, does not, to us, appear quite obvious. His lordship married Janet, daughter and co-heir of Charles Carrier, of Wirkworth, in Derbyshire; and by her had issue George the second, Earl of Mac- clesfield ; and the lady Elizabeth before mentioned. He died * at his son's house, in Soho Square, in the sixty-sixth year of his age, on April 28th, 1732, and was buried at Shirburn, in Oxfordshire ; esteemed for the social virtues of a husband, parent, and master, by every one to whom he stood in those relations. His lordship's son George, the second Earl of Macclesfield, was distinguished as a scholar, and the steady promoter of literature and science. He was president of the Royal Society, and member of many foreign academies ; and rendered himself otherwise remarkable, for being zealous in procuring the alteration of the style ;*j* but, as his lordship was not born at Leek, his biography does not properly belong to this place. The market day of Leek is on Wednesday. Fairs, February 10, April 14, May 18, June 2, July 3 and 28, October 13, November 13. ECCLESHALL. Eccleshall is a market town, and a very extensive parish, in Pirchill hundred. It is very pleasantly situate on the river Sow, seven and a half miles north west from Stafford, five from the town of Stone, and one hundred and forty-eight north west from London. In 1801, the parish contained five hundred and ninety-four houses, and three .thousand four hundred and • Park's Royal and Noble Authors, Vol. IV. p. 145. t Sir E. Brydges, Collins's Peerage, VoL IV. p. 194. OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 105 eighty-seven inhabitants ; of whom, one thousand seven hundred and thirty-seven were males, and one thousand seven hundred and fifty females ; of which number, according to the par- liamentary returns, two thousand six hundred and fifty-seven were returned as being em- ployed in agriculture, and eight hundred and thirty in trade, there being no manufactories beyond the common handicraft trades. In 1811, the whole parish of Eccleshall contained six hundred and ninety-three houses, seven hundred and eleven families ; one thousand eight hun- dren and five males, one thousand eight hundred and thirteen females : total, three thousand six hundred and eighteen inhabitants. At the same period, the town of Eccleshall alone, con- tained two hundred and seventeen houses, two hundred and twenty-five families ; four hundred and sixty-six males, five hundred and fifty females : total, one thousand and sixteen persons. In 1821, the town contained two hundred and eighty-five houses, and one thousand two hun- dred and fifty-four inhabitants ; viz. six hundred and fifteen males, and six hundred and thirty- nine females ; of whom sixty-three families were returned as being employed in trade, and one hundred and seventy in agriculture. The houses in this town are neatly and well built. It is supposed to be named from the Latin word ecclesia, the Bishop of Lichfield having formerly had a palace here. In the civil war, it was garrisoned for the king ; but being afterwards taken by the parliamentary forces, it was nearly destroyed, but was afterwards re-built by Bishop Lloyd, of which more hereafter. The market day at Eccleshall is on Friday, and it has four fairs ; viz. March 18, May 20, August 16, November 5. The church of Eccleshall is a vicarage, valued at £1. 14?. M. in the king's books. Patron, the Bishop of Lichfield. This town is of great antiquity, and is supposed to have been founded by the Romans in the first century:— an intelligent correspondent communicated the following interesting account of it to Mr. Pitt : f* When Nero was emperor of the Roman empire, Auvigarus was king of Britain. Vespasian, then general of the Roman army in Britain, built a town in a large marsh on the banks of the river Sow, adjacent to the forest of Bloor, and ordered one of the Roman standards to be kept there. The standard represented an eagle, and the town was called Eagles'- hall. It was built about the year 60. On the southern side, at the foot of the hill, a temple was erected to Jupiter, and a flameary, or place for sacrifices. About the year of our Lord, 209, Lucius, king of Britain, gave the town the name of Eccleshall, and the temple of Jove, Hasmere. This edifice was consecrated as a Christian Church, and continued until the year 509, when Creda, a Saxon, the eleventh from Weber, the first king of Mercia, conquered the Britons, and destroyed all the Christian churches within the counties of Stafford, Gloucester, Hereford, Chester, Worcester, Oxford, Warwick, Derby, Leicester, Buckingham, Northampton, Nottingham, Lincoln, Bed- ford, Huntingdon, and part of Hertford. The Christians were obliged to seek an asylum in Worlsor, supposed to be Wales, till about the year 660, when Lawrence, Archbishop of Can- terbury, consecrated Devine, Bishop of Lichfield, and afterwards Eccleshall, and the forest of Bloor was given to him by Penda, king of Mercia. " Eccleshall Church was re-built in the year, 661, but was destroyed nine years afterwards by Wulfere, king of Mercia, who, in 670, while at his castle at Ulferoster, or Uttoxeter, was informed that his two sons Ulfred and Rufin, under pretence of hunting, were gone to Eccles-. hall to Bishop Chadd, to be baptized and instructed in the Christian religion. The king, being P 106 PICTURESQUE VIEWS instigated by his concubine Wercbode, hastened to Eccleshall, and finding his sons in the church, in divine contemplation, he slew them both with his own hand, and then destroyed the edifice. Queen Erminilda, the mother of the two royal martyrs, took their bodies, and buried them in a certain place, not far from Eccleshall, and built a monastery over them ; and, from the great quantity of stones collected for this building, the place was called Stones, now Stone, a market town in this county (which we have already described). King Wulfere afterwards repented, re-built Eccleshall Church and all others which he had destroyed, and was very favourable to the Christians, but died without ah heir. His brother Ethelred succeeded him in his kingdom ; then Eccleshall began to flourish, and became so famous and populous, that it had five parish churches and two chapels in it. This prosperity continued nearly three centuries and a half ; but a sudden reverse took place in the year 1010, when the Danes laid Eccleshall town and castle, and all its churches, in ashes by fire. It lay in ruins till 1090, when Elias de Jantonice, prebend of Eccleshall, re-built the old church, and dedicated it to the Holy Trinity. In the year 1299, Walter Langton, Bishop of Lichfield, re-built Eccleshall Castle." H The extensive manor here was the property of the Bishops of Lichfield ; but, observes Mr. Nightingale, " How long it continued in their possession, or what changes it underwent* are not known ; but in the year 1650, Camden tells us, it was sold for the sum of £ 14,224." Eccleshall is distinguished principally for its castle, which was founded at a very early period, but by whom, history does not inform us. About the year 1200, however, we find Bishop Muschamp empowered by a licence from King John, " to make a park here, and embattle the castle," so that some edifice answering the description of a castellated mansion must have existed here at least some years prior to this period.* In 1310, this castle was completely re-built by Walter de Langton, Bishop of Lichfield, and Lord high Treasurer of England, who established it as the principal palace of the Bishops of Lichfield. His successors, however, having other palaces in this county at Heywood, Brewood, Beaudesert, &c. besides Lichfield House in the Strand, London, do not appear to have occupied it much till the year 1695, when the whole south front of it having been renewed by Bishop Lloyd, it afterwards became their constant residence, and continues to be such at the present day. At the time of the civil wars, between the house of Stewart and the Parliament, this castle was originally garrisoned for the king, and stood a severe siege against the republican forces, but was ultimately compelled to surrender. So great was the damage it sustained during this attack, that it became wholly uninhabitable, till re-edified, as already mentioned, by Bishop Lloyd. Bishop Hough afterwards planted the grove, which surrounds it, now converted into an elegant shrubbery. The late bishop, Dr. James Cornwallis, likewise contributed greatly, both to the healthful situation and ornament of this residence, by draining all the grounds in its immediate neighbourhood^ * Gough's Camden, Vol. II. p. 509. t Leland, speaking of this castle, says " Eccleshall Castle belonging to the Bishop of Chester." Thi«, however, we should presume to be a mistake, as we do not find it mentioned in any other record, as having ever been in the possession of that see. Leland's Itin. Vol. VI. p. 36 — 7. OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 107 The church is not remarkable except as having been the place in which Bishop Halse con- cealed Queen Margaret, when she fled hither from Muccleston. North east from the palace, at a few miles distant, is Byana, an ancient building, which was some years ago converted into a farm house. This edifice was long the residence of the family of the Bosviles, who possesed the estate around it, as it is evidenced by the inscriptions and achievements on their monu- ments in the church of Eccleshall. Charles Bosvile, Esq. the last male heir of this branch of the family, was sheriff of this county, and afterwards of Leicestershire, about the middle of the last century. ' TUTBUKY, or STUTESBUKY. As it is intended to give a description of all the market towns in the county, in this work, it becomes necessary to insert some account of Tutbury, Mr. Nightingale (in 1813) observes, " that the market, which is held on Tuesday, is of small note." Mr. Pitt, in 181 7, remarks, " that there was a weekly market here prior to the Norman invasion, but it is now discontinued ." But Tutbury is a place of great celebrity, and of much interest, in other respects. It is a parish in Offlow hundred, near the river Dove, over which is a neat stone bridge of nine arches, six miles north by west of Burton, and one hundred and thirty-four from London. In 1811, it contained about one thousand persons ; and in 1821, it contained two hundred and sixty-six, houses, and one thousand four hundred and forty-four inhabitants. Its ancient castle, belonging to the Earls of Derby, was formerly one of the most noted in England. The church is a large, massive building. In the town are several chapels for dissenters, and an excellent free-school. The chief business of the place is in the wool and cotton trade. Fairs, February 15, August 10, and December 1. It is a vicarage, value £1. Patron, the Duke of Devonshire. Tutbury Castle has always been a place of the highest interest, and so long ago as the Hep- tarchy, its elevated site was said to be occupied by a strong fortress, and was the residence of the kings of Mercia, who remained in security from any sudden attack of an enemy. The earliest information, however, upon record is, immediately subsequent to the Norman Conquest, in 1066 ; when, as Mr. Pitt states, •* Hugh de Albrincis was in possession of Tut- bury Castle, but was deprived of it by the Conqueror, who gave it to one of his greatest fa- vourites and friends, Henry de Ferrers." In the year 1250, it passed to the Earl of Lancaster, in consequence of Robert de Ferrers having joined Simon Mountford in rebellion against Henry III. In 1322, Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, fortified it against Edward II., but could not 108 PICTURESQUE VIEWS hold out, and was obliged to surrender. Tutbury Castle, consequently* reverted to the crown. 1 t was afterwards neglected, and fell into decay, till it} came into the possession of John of Gaunt, who re-built it of hewn free-stone, upon the ancient site, in 1350.* This castle was now the principal seat of the Dukes of Lancaster, and was for ages distinguished as the scene of festivity and courtly splendour. The number of minstrels which crowded to it was so great, that, as an expedient for preserving order among them, the celebrated John of Gaunt appointed a chief minstrel, with the title of King, with inferior officers under him, to assist in the execu- tion of the laws. A charter, to that effect, was granted to the chief minstrel in 1381, by the Duke of Lancaster .-J* On the demise of John of Gaunt, the Duchy of Lancaster and its dependencies devolved on Henry Plantagenet, his only surviving son ; and when that prince afterwards ascended the throne by the title of Henry IV., the honour and castle of Tutbury being thus united with the Duchy of Lancaster to the crown, they have continued so to the present time. In 1568, Mary, Queen of Scots, was confined in Tutbury Castle, which was then a solitary spot, neg- lected and decayed. Here she continued many years a state prisoner. The following account of the state of the castle, at the time this unfortunate Queen was confined there, is extracted from the papers of Sir Ralph Sadler, the keeper : " The whole area, containing about three acres, was encompassed, on all sides but one, with a strong and lofty embattled wall, and deep foss, as the present ruins plainly shew. The prin- cipal entrance was by a bridge under the great gateway to the north, part of which is. still re- maining. At a small distance to the left of this gateway, or lodge, stood Mr. Donel's office and bed-chamber, and four other rooms. Along the north east wall, about one hundred and sixty feet from the entrance, was a lofty tower, embattled, containing four rooms, viz. store- house at the bottom ; above that, Curie's apartment ; over which was the doctor's ; and at the top, the chief cook's. This tower is then said to be very much shaken and cleft, and now very little of it is remaining. At a little distance from this, began the principal suite of the Queen's apartments, extending along the east side ; viz. the Queen's dining-chamber, her closet, and bed-chamber, cabinet, place for wood and coal, and then her women's room. These were all * Erdeswick, p. 205. t Among other sports and pastimes introduced at Tutbury Castle by th.is eccentric, but good-natured, Trince, was the annual custom, called " Tutbury Bull-running.'* On the festival of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, the minstrels assembled to mattins at the priory. In the afternoon, they met at the gate, where a bull was given by the prior. The animal had previously been prepared for this inhuman sport, having his horns, ears, and tail cut off, his body besmeared with soap, and his nostrils blown full of pepper. In thig state, he was let loose ; and if the surrounding minstrels could catch and hold him so long as to deprive him of the smallest portion of his hair, he was declared their property, provided this could be done in Stafford- shire, and before sun-set. This custom is supposed, by some antiquaries, to have originated in an imitation of the bull- fights in Spain ; which is not improbable, as John of Gaunt was King of the Spanish provinces of Castile and Leon. In the lapse of ages, the pursuit of the bull, which had been confined to the minstrels, became general, and the multitude promiscuously joined in the barbarous sport, which sometimes terminated in a battle royal and bloodshed. The custom was abolished, about forty-two years ago, by the Duke of Devonshire, who gave the minstrels four marks in lieu of their former prize. OF STAFFORDSHIRE; 109 above stairs." From this castle, Mary was removed, in 1585, to Chartley, and thence, in 1586, to Fotheringay Castle, where she was beheaded. King James I., in one of his tours through England, visited Tutbury Castle, the former place of his mother's confinement ; and such are the strange vicissitudes of life, that those walls which had so long re-echoed the sighs and groans of an unfortunate Queen, were now shaken with the acclamations of a multitude assembled to greet her son, their Sovereign. During the civil wars in the time of Charles I. Tutbury Castle was fortified and garrisoned by the royalists. The king spent a fortnight at this castle in 1643. This Castle, after a long siege, being much battered, was surrendered by the garrison to Colonel Brereton, in 1648; it was then greatly demolished by the parliament forces; and when the event of the war was determined, the fortifications were destroyed by an order from the usurpers of power. This demolition, and the dilapidations of time, have finally reduced this once- beautiful and lofty edifice to a picturesque ruin. A considerable part of the gateway re- mains ; and, from the few vestiges of the castle, it appears to have been built of hewn free- stone, with admixtures of gypsum. A round tower, intended to appear as a ruin, has been erected, on a high mound, by Lord Vernon, the present possessor, who holds the castle, and circumjacent grounds, by lease from the crown. A building has been erected among the ruins, which is the residence of the steward, who entertains the tenants, occasionally, at wakes, &c. A large room in this house is used for assemblies; and the Minstrel's Court is annually held in it. The green park, around the castle-hill, is now a pasture for sheep and cattle ; the prospect from the summit of the hill is very extensive, and commands a picturesque view of Needwood Forest. The Dove fertilizes the rich meadows on its banks, and affords a supply of trout and other fish to the inhabitants, and the turnpike-road, from Burton-upon-Trent to Uttoxeter, passes through the town. The soil of this parish is generally rich, abounding with alabaster and marl; and the meadows are occasionally improved by the inundations of the Dove, Tutbury Church is a vicarage, dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; it constitutes a portion of the ancient priory church, and is a large edifice, with an embattled tower, surmounted by four pin- nacles. The principal entrance is an archway, of exquisitely rich and beautiful Saxon architec- ture ; and is, perhaps, the most perfect specimen of the kind in the Island. This entrance is a low semi-eircular arch, with a similar arched window above it ; it is partly composed of alabaster, richly ensculptured with a variety of grotesque figures ; but no description can give an adequate idea of the beauty of the whole. Part of the arch of the window is beginning to moulder, but the entrance is in a state of perfect preservation. The Priory was founded by Henry de Ferrers in 1080, and amply endowed by him with lands and revenues. The religious order, who resided here, wliere Benedictine monks, and several additional donations were conferred on the establishment, by William Rufus and his Queen Maud. Robert, Earl Ferrers, grandson to the founder, confirmed to the monks all their possessions, and added the tithes of Newborough to his gift. His descendants also contributed to the wealth and magnificence of this celebrated Priory, scarcely a vestige of which now remains. Little is known of the original extent of this monastery ; but, among the few facts recorded of it, we are informed that it contained a splendid monument to the memory of the 110 plCTWliEtoQUE VIEWS founder, with a Latin inscription upon it. A general account of the annual revenue tiuui uie possessions belonging to this Priory, is preserved in the First Fruits Office, by which it ap- pears, that in 1538 they amounted to the annual sum of £24s4i. 16s. 8d a very considerable income according to the value of money in the middle of the sixteenth century. On the dis- solution of the monastic orders, by Henry VI1L, Arthur Neverel, alias Throwley, with eight monks, surrendered this Priory to the king's commissioners, on the 14th day of September, 1538, as appears by the original deed of surrender in the Augmentation Office. This prior afterwards received a pension of fifty pounds a year. The site of Tutbury Priory was granted, in the sixth year of the reign of Edward VI., to Sir William Cavendish, who pulled down the Priory, and part of the church, to build a large mansion, which was the residence of his eldest son Henry. He dying without legitimate issue, it devolved to his next brother ; and it has descended from successive possessors to the present owner, the Duke of Devonshire, A pretended instance of total abstinence, in the case of a woman named Ann Moore, an in- habitant of Tutbury, for a long time engrossed, a very considerable share of public attention. The imposture was carried on for several years with such extraordinary art and success, that it obtained, in regard to the supposed validity of the woman's assertion, the sanction of a large number of medical, philosophical, and other visitors, of every description, from all parts of the kingdom. The laudable exertions of a committee of gentleman, formed for the avowed purpose of investigating this extraordinary case, at length discovered .the cheat ; and the wretched wo- man completed their labours, by a formal and unequivocal confession of her guilt, before Thomas Lister, Esq one of the magistrates for this county.* no. . * The following account of this imposture, derived from unqestionable authority, is copied from the Staf- fordshire Gazette, of May 11th, 1813 : This unparalleled delusion, which has made so much noise, has been pursued, but too successfully, for nearly six years. The persevering subtility with which this woman has carried' on her imposture, is without example, and baffled all attempts to detect her ; and, but for the unconquerable scepticism of some of the faculty, (particularly Dr. Henderson,) her case would have been handed down to posterity, as an indubitable instance of a human being living without receiving the least sustenance. The watch, which had been publicly adver- tised, commenced on Wednesday 21st ult., and was strictly carried on until Friday the 30th, a period of nine days, during all which time, these gentlemen verify, that she had not received any nourishment. She, how- ever, gradually grew feebler, her pulse was almost imperceptible, and she, at length, became so ill, as on the latter named day to induce the gentlemen to suspend the watch. At this time, she begged to have her mouth moistened with a wetted cloth, and her desire was complied with, by applying to her lips a cloth dipped in vinegar and water ; this was done several times, and the gentleman who administered it, declared he perceived her to swallow ; although she, even then, strenuously denied it. The physician attending upon her, at the same time, gave it as his opinion that she could not survive an hour ; and yet, at this period, with the im- mediate prospect of eternity before her, she, by her own desire, took an oath, drawn up in the strongest and clearest terms, that, for more than four years past, she had not taken sustenance of any description ! Her daughter was now admitted to see her, and she, in a short time, very much revived. From the weighing machine, upon which she was placed during the watch, it appeared that she had lost daily nearly fourteen ounces in weight. Nothing now remained, to convince every one of her imposition, but her own confession of her guilt, and this last proof she voluntarily made before a magistrate. After this con- fession, she took milk, in the presence of several of the gentlemen, and now seems fast recovering. See the Rev. Leigh Richmond's " Statement of Facts. &c." OF STAFFORDSHIRE. Ill It appears, that Tutbury was erected into a free borough at an: early period, by some of the royal personages, who occupied its once magnificent castle. The burgesses and inhabitants then possessed a variety of valuable privileges. Among these, were " divers liberties of common, of pasture, of purvenage, and estovers, in the forest of Need wood $ together with freedom from " all toll, tonnage, package, poundage, and other exactions within all their possessions.' What is rather remarkable, this town never had the right of sending members to Parliament, though still retaining the name of a borough. — — — — — — - — — — — — BKEWOOD. Brewood, a large parish, and formerly a market town, sometimes spelt Breewood, is in the hundred of Cuttlestone, four miles south from Penkridge, seven north from Wolverhamp- ton, and one hundred and twenty-nine north west from London, on the river Penk ; on one of the branches of which the town is delightfully situated, and very neatly built. Accord- ing to the parliamentary population returns of 1801, the parish contained one thousand four hundred and five males, and one thousand four hundred and sixty-two females ; total inha- bitants, two thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven. In 1811, the town alone contained two hundred and ten inhabited houses, and two hundred and twelve families ; of whom sixty-nine were employed in agriculture, eighty-seven in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, and fifty-six not engaged in business; the number of persons were four hundred and seventy-five males, five hjndred and sixteen females ; total, nine hundred and ninety-one. In 1821, the parish con- tained five hundred and thirty-eight houses, and two thousand seven hundred and seventy-three inhabitants. It is a vicarage value £6. 17s. 8d. Patron, the Dean of Lichfield. There was a convent of Benedictine, or Cistercian nuns, in the reign of Richard I. founded here by Hubert Walter. At the dissolution of the religious houses, its revenue was only £l 1. Is. 6d. per annum. The Free Grammar School of this town is an excellent and well-conducted insti- tution : it was founded by Dr. Matthew Knightly, and endowed with lands to the amount of £60. per annum. The masters are permitted to receive a limited number of pupils and boarders. Several eminent men have been educated at this school ; among others, the late celebrated Bishop Hurd. Mr. Nightingale notices, that " Processioning was prevalent here as well as at Wolverhamp- 112 PICTURESQUE VIEWS ton, during the last century ; on which occasion, it was customary for the inhabitants to adorn their wells with boughs and flowers."* Several severe shocks of an earthquake were felt at this place in 1678, which were preceded by a loud, rumbling noise, resembling distant thunder. The bishop of the diocese is said to have had a seat here before the Conquest. Mr. Pitt, in his survey of Staffordshire, notices Chillington as the largest estate in the parish of Brewood, and includes the south and west part. It is the property of Giffard, Esq. The mansion and offices are extensive ; and the gardens, pleasure-grounds, and planta- tions, are laid out with great taste, and much improved by the present owner. This estate con- tains several villages and farm-houses, besides Chillington ; particularly Gunston, Long Birch, the Hattons, White and Black Ladies, and the Hyde. ^The Giffard family has large estates in other parts of this county ; but their religious tenets have kept them from public employments. Mr. Giffard, of Chillington, is, however, a gentleman of liberal principles ; and the passing of the emancipation Bill places him in as high a political situation as his neighbours. He is mar- ried to a Protestant lady, by whom he has a large family. His tenantry are mostly Roman Catholics, who are accommodated with chapels on his estate at Long Birch and Black Ladies. Somerford is another large estate in the parish of Brewood, including the manor of Coven, Brewood Hall, Engleton Hall, Four Ashes, and Somerford Hall. The Hon. Edward Monckton, third son to Viscount Gal way, in Ireland, much improved this estate ; and Somer- ford Hall is now an elegant mansion^ in a pleasant situation on the eastern bank of the Penk. The estate was nearly stripped of all its timber by the former owners ; but Mr. Monckton im- proved its general appearance bv extensive plantations. The population of the liberty of Somerford, in 1811, was five hundred and seventy-eight persons, of whom two hundred and eighty-three were males, and two hundred and ninety-five females. The parish contains other villages and hamlets, particularly Kiddimore Green, a township situated to the west of Brewood ; the villages of Broomhall and Horsebrook, near the Watling Street ; the hamlets of Crateford and Standeford ; Aspley Farm, and the Laches, hamlets on the eastern side of the parish ; and the small village or hamlet called Paradise. * This custom of adorning wells is a relict of popish times. When that religion prevailed, this ceremony was instituted to distinguish such wells as were celebrated for the cure of particular diseases, and generally took place on the saint's days, when the people diverted themselves with music and dancing, and had caked and ale. OP ST AFtfORDSfUftE. 113 KUDGELEY. orb t6\ I; . "Rudgeley, or Rugeley, a market town and parish in Cuttlestone hundred, Staffordshire, is situate near the south bank of the Trent, seven miles north-west from Lichfield, nine and a half from Stafford, and one hundred and thirty-one from London. Although the town is built in a low situation, it is in a delightful and healthy country, around which are a number of elegant and splendid seats and mansions. The town is not only neatly and well built, but also contains many elegant houses. The Grand Trunk Canal, uniting with the Trent and Mersey, and running past the north side of the town, affords the greatest facilities of, and has vastly contributed to, the trade of the place, the chief of which is in the manufacture of hats and felts; but several other branches of manufacture are carried on here. In 1801, it contained four hundred and twenty-eight houses, and two thousand and thirty inhabitants ; nine hundred and seventy-eight of whom were males, one thousand and fifty-two females. In 1811, the town and parish contained four hundred and fifty-three houses, and fourteen buildings. The number of families was four hundred and seventy-eight; in which there were one thousand and eighty- nine males, and one thousand one hundred and twenty-four females. In 1821, it contained four hundred and ninety-four houses, and two thousand six hundred and sixty-seven inha- bitants ; of whom three hundred and seventeen were employed in the various trades and manu- factures, particularly in those of hats and felts. The town is under the government of two constables, who are chosen annually by the inhabitants. The market day is on Tuesday and Thursday. Fairs, April 19, June 3, 4, 5, 7 ; October 21, and December 14, for cattle and horses. The church, which is a vicarage, valued at £b. Qs. f is dedicated to St. Augustine, and is in the patronage of the Dean and Chapter of Lichfield. The ancient church of Stone, con- sists of two low aisles of equal dimensions ; a handsome tower ornaments the west end ; and on the south side, in the interior of the body, is a circular ornamented arch. The church contains several monuments of the families of Weston, Chetwynd, Lander, Sneyd, &c. Mr. Nightingale asserts, that " The manor was anciently the property of a family who either gave their name to the town, or derived it from hence." The latter is the more probable circumstance, or more would have been known or said of their family circle. Mr. N., however, remarks, that " In the reign of Edward III. we find some of this family sheriffs of the county ; and one a knight of the Shire about the same time." How long they continued to possess it, is somewhat uncertain ; but, in the beginning of the sixteenth century, Erdiswick mentions it as a property of the Bishop of Lichfield, from whom it was alienated to the king by Bishop Sampson, in 1547.* Mr. Pitt says, that Dr. Wilkes traces the etymology (and we think cor- . • Pennant's Journey, p. 139. fit PICTURESQUE VIEWS rectly) of Rugeley, from Ridgeley, a ridge of hills above the town. Cannock-heath ap- proaches within a mile of Rugeley on the south ; and Stile Cop, one of its eminences, covered with trees, is seen at the distance of many miles. From the summit there is a prospect of great part of Derbyshire, Staffordshire, and Worcestershire, and a part of Shopshire. The Free Grammar School of Ruge'cy was established by Queen Elizabeth, who endowed the institution with lands in and about the town, which had formerly been appropriated for the instruction of boys in a chantry, dissolved by Henry VIII. John Bamford Cowper also founded a charity school, and left four hundred pounds in trust, the interest of which was to be paid to a school-master, for instructing sixteen boys of the poorest families in Rugeley, in reading, writing, and arithmetic, to qualify them to go appren- tices to trades. They were also instructed in the church catechism, and the principles of the Christian religion. Among the memorable events recorded in the parish register of Rugeley, there is an account of a fire on Trinity Sunday, May 20, 1646, which destroyed twenty-nine dwelling-houses. The sufferers afterwards received £335. 7s. \0d. On Saturday, February 19, 1708, a fire broke out in the west end of Rugeley, at nine o'clock in the morning, and comsumed ten habi- tations, nine barns and offices, and goods to the value of £808. 3s. 2d. which was paid to the sufferers severally, by Benjamin Adie. The new church is a very handsome structure. . U . ! ' WEDNESBURY, Is a considerable market town and parish in Offlow hundred, adjoining Bromwich on the north- west, at a short distance from the source of the river Tame : it is five miles from Wolverhamp- ton, three from Walsall, seven north-west from Birmingham, and one hundred and twenty-four from London. In 1801 the population was four thousand one hundred and sixty, of whom two thousand and seventy-one were males, and two thousand and eighty-nine, females ; one thousand three hundred and ninety-three persons were employed in different branches of trade, and two hundred and forty-three in agriculture. In 1811, Wednesbury contained five thousand three hundred and seventy-two persons, of whom two thousand eight hundred and six were males, and two thousand five hundred and sixty-six females ; making an unusual falling off in the latter, when compared with the number of males and females, in 1801, and taking into consideration that the females exceed the number of males in nearly all the population returns. In 1821 this town contained eleven hundred and ninety-four houses, and six thousand four hundred and se- venty-one inhabitants, of whom one thousand two hundred and eight families were employed in OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 115 manufactures. The attention of the inhabitants is particularly directed to the manufacture or iron axle-trees, coach-springs, bridle-bits, stirrups, saws, edge-tools, nails, gun-barrels, locks, wood- sc/ews, &c, as well as cast iron goods of every description ; and the manufactories and col- lieries that surround them, as well as the people themselves, wear a peculiar character. The inhabitants have many advantages from the excellence of the coal in this neighbourhood, and they avail themselves of it in their persevering industry. In fact the place is reckoned famous for its coal, which is much valued, on account of its heat, for smith's work : the supply is inex- haustible, and it extends in separate veins, from three to twelve yards in thickness, and yields to its various proprietors, an almost princely fortune. Mr. Pitt, in his survey of this place, says that " a peculiar species of iron ore is found here called blond metal, which is chiefly used in the manufacture of nails, horse-shoes, hammers* axes, and other heavy tools. Reddish earth called kip, is also found in the neighbourhood of Wed- nesbury, which is used in glazing vessels of different kinds." Dr. Wilkes speaks of the wildfire which is discoverable in the old coal pits of Wednesbury field. " It breaks out spontaneously in the vast heaps of slack left in the coal-works, which contain a vast quantity of sulphur, and frequently smokes through the surface, and acts upon the several strata, some of which are re- duced to cinders: it hardens clay into what is called pork-stone, which is good for repairing the roads, or laying the foundation of buildings. Another kind of fire in these mines goes off with a tremendous explosion, driving every thing before it ; but, when the proper means are used, this is prevented." Mr. Savary, the original inventor of the steam-engine, set one of these engines down in Wednesbury, near a place called the broad waters, but the water was too powerful for the ma- chinery, and he was forced to give up the undertaking; thus he had discovered a power sufficient to produce any effect, but was unable to form machinery for using it. This was reserved for after ages ; but the world is highly indebted to him for the principle, since so highly improved, and so generally applied. The Birmingham canal is brought to this town, and, continues Mr. Pitt, " the most power- ful machinery in the world for raising water, has been erected in this neighbourhood, at Oaken- hill, by the Birmingham canal company, upon Boulton and Watt's application of Savary's principle."" The art of manufacturing iron with pit- coal being perfected, furnaces are uncommonly nu- merous in the vicinity of Wednesbury ; they are plentifully supplied with materials on the spot, and the utmost facility for the conveyance of the manufactured goods afforded by branches from the canal in all directions. This town is of great antiquity : the church is a fine old gothic structure, supposed to have been built by Dudo, Lord of Dudley, in the eighth century, at the same time he built Dudley castle. Here are also meeting-houses for Presbyterians, Quakers, and Methodists. Of the latter sect, Mr. Pitt states that, "in the year 1742, when Lady Huntingdon sent John and Charles Wesley to Wednesbury to preach the doctrine of Methodism, the miners, and iron manufactu- rers, who were then in rather an uncivilized state, rose in a mob, and broke the windows of the house where some people had assembled to hear the preachers. Some of the rioters being brought, by a warrant, before Justice Pershouse, he reprimanded the Methodists. The minister 116 PICTURESQUE VIEWS of Wednesbury then joined with the magistrates (according to Mr. Wesley) and the mob was encouraged to persecute and insult the Methodists, and all who joined them. % " These riotous proceedings being noticed by government, one of the Middlesex justices, in an interview with Mr. John Wesley, informed him that he had orders from the king to do him justice, his majesty being determined that no man in his dominions should be persecuted for conscience sake. Thus, by the beneficent influence of the sovereign, the rioters were intimi- dated, and the spirit of persecution subsided." It was not an uncommon thing at a much later period, that the Methodist preachers were insulted in various parts of the kingdom — but a better feeling and a better taste has prevailed for the last thirty years. Mr. Nightingale thus describes the ancient church already alluded to. *' The church is an elegant building in the pointed style of architecture, and adorns the summit of the hill, on which the castle was situated. At one end rises a handsome tower, supporting a lofty spire of unusual beauty. The interior is divided into a chancel, nave, and north and south aisles. These last are separated from the nave, by a range of very neat arches, which rest upon octagonal pillars; one arch being intersected by another pillar, produces a singular and awkward effect. In the chancel are several prebendal stalls, ornamented with most exquisite carved work. Here are a variety of monuments in honour of the ancestors of the families of Lords Dudley and Harcourt ; against the north wall appears a very ancient tomb, on which are placed two female figures stand- ing under Gothic niches, each having her right hand resting on a plain shield. On the floor are cut out the figures of a knight and his lady, the one habited in full armour, and the other in the dress of the times. Several more are visible on the stones, but are so much obliterated as to be incapable of description. Within the rails is an alabaster monument to the memory of Mr. Parkes, whose effigy, and that of his wife lie recumbent on the top. A monument adjoining the south wall, represents a man and woman kneeling, having beneath them the figures of six chil- dren. Around the church-yard is a large graff, in which the vestiges of the ancient fort may be distinctly traced. The prospect from hence is among the most extensive in the county ." The market at Wednesbury, is on Wednesday— Fairs, May the sixth, and August the fourth. In the time of the Mercians, this place was distinguished by a noble castle, fortified by A del fleda, who was for some time governess of this extensive kingdom. No part of this work <>f antiquity now remains, except a few traces of its foundation. After the conquest it became a portion of the royal demesnes. Henry II. however, bestowed it on the family of the Heron- viles in exchange for the town of Cobsfield, in Yorkshire, so that it is now a parcel of the ho- nour of Woodstock. From them it passed, after various successions, into the family of ilm Beaumonts. ■ • 8 OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 117 PENKRIDGE. Penkridge is a large market town, and parish, in Cuttlestone hundred, situate on the river Penk, and lies several miles north-west of Cannock, it is four miles north-east of Brewood, six miles to the south of Stafford, ten miles north of Wolverhampton, and one hundred and twenty- nine north-west from London. In 1821 it contained four hundred and sixteen houses, and two thousand two hundred and ninety-nine inhabitants. According to Camden* this town is built on the site of the Roman Pennocrucium, and he says, " the military way continues from Wall, very fair and plain, almost without any breach, till it is crossed and interrupted by the river Penk, and hath a stone bridge built over it at Pennocru- cium, so called from the river, and standing at the* same distance which Antoninus has fixed ; which town has not quite lost the' name at this day, being for Pennocrucium called Penkridge.** At present Penkridge is only a small village, famous for a horse-fair, which Hugh Blount or Flavus, the lord of it, obtained of King Edward II. Mr. Nightingale says that li it derives its name, as is generally supposed, from the river Penk, which flows past it, as does likewise the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Grand Trunk canal." ... Penkridge is undoubtedly a place of very great antiquity. According to some, as before noticed, it is the Pennocrucium of the Romans, mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus. On this point, however, there is considerable diversity of opinion amongst antiquaries. Camden regarded it as having been that Roman station ; but Plott,* Stukeley, and Horsley, transfer the latter to Stretton, a village situated in the neighbourhood, a little below the bridge under which the river Penk crosses the Watling-street. But though differing with respect to the actual site of Pennocrucium these authors all agree in considering Penkridge as having risen on its ruins. A brass head, the bolt of a catapulta, was found here about the middle of the last century. The church of Penkridge was formerly collegiate. In the reign of King Stephen, it was he- Stowed on the bishop and churches of Lichfield and Coventry. Afterwards, however, the ad- vowson was given by Hugh Huose, to the archbishop of Dublin, in Ireland, who was generally, in subsequent times, dean here, and had the collation of all the prebendaries, who were thirteen in number. At the dissolution, this church became the property of W. Riggs and William Buckbird. It is an old building with a square tower, but possesses no architectural features worthy of particular detail. * Plott's Nat. Hist, of Stafford, p. 401. Horsley, 19. Salmon will not have Pennocrucium, to be in this neighbourhood at all, maintaining it to have been situated at Oldbury, in Warwickshire. Survey of England, vol. ii. 118 PICTURESQUE VIEWS The following particulars, respecting Penkridge, are extracted from the manuscripts of Sir Edward Littleton, bart. and communicated by the Rev. Richard Slaney, vicar of the church. " Sir Edward Littleton, bart. to the Rev. R. Slaney, Penkridge. Teddesley, Nov. 3, 1807. *• Sir, — By the first of Edward VI. 1547, colleges and chantrys are, by act of parliament, vested in the crown, which puts an end to the claim of the archbishop of Dublin's jurisdiction over Penkridge; and it remained in the hands of the crown till granted out to others. The grant of King John to the archbishop of Dublin, bears date thirteenth September, 1206, and is done away by the above first Edward VI. 1547, by an act of parliament. - Edward Littleton." *' King Edward II., in the eleventh year of his reign, declared that the chapel at Pencriz, and others, were his free chapels, and as such, exempt from all ordinary jurisdiction, impositions, exactions and contributions, and accordingly ordained, that none should presume to encroach upon their immunities."* The church is a fine Gothic building of stone, with a square tower, and five bells. It is de- dicated to St. Michael, being now only a curacy. " It is a royal peculiar, having four chapels within its jurisdiction, namely, Dunstan, dedicated to St. Leonard ; Coppenhall, to St. Law- rence ; Shareshill, to the assumption of the Virgin Mary ; and Stretton, to St. John. The official of the peculiar holds visitations, probate courts, and licenses the incumbents to the cha- pels. In the chancel of the church of Penkridge, there are several monuments of the Littleton family, who are patrons of the church. There is a charity-school in Penkridge for twelve boys and eight girls. The principal manufacture of Penkridge, is iron, which is, however, inconsiderable. From the situation of the town on the low and flat northern bank of the river Penk, it is subject to inundations when that river is swelled by floods. The market is held on Tuesday, three annual fairs are held in this town ; the thirtieth of April, September the second, and the ele- venth of October. These fairs are allowed to be among the first in England for saddle and draught horses. A very considerable part of the extensive parish of Penkridge is the property of the Little- ton family. At a short distance to the south of Penkridge, is the village of Lapley, where there formerly stood an alien priory of black nuns, belonging to the religious body of St. Remigius at Rheims, on whom it is said to have been bestowed in the time of Edward the Confessor, by Aylmer, Earl of Chester and Mercia. Henry I. afterwards granted it to the college of Tong. Dugdale's Monasticon Anglicanum, p. 370. _ I • OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 119 ■ ■ LONGNOE. Longnor is a township and chapelry in the parish of Alstonfield, in the hundred of Tot- mans-low — six miles north-east from Leek, and one hundred and fifty-two from London — In 1811 it contained about one hundred houses, and four hundred inhabitants; in 1821 it contained only one hundred and one houses, and four hundred and sixty inhabitants. The market house stand- ing upon an eminence, is neat and convenient, and the market which is held on Tuesday, is re- markable for the limited time allotted to the sale of its various commodities. The small church or rather chapel, to the vicarage of Alstonfield, is a neat and modern struc- ture of stone, with a high square tower adorned with eight pinnacles ; the interior is plain and the pews of fir, painted to resemble oak. There are a small number of Dissenters and Me- thodists. In the church-yard are several monuments, and, among others, is the following cu- rious one, giving a biographical record of an old military veteran. " In memory of William Billinge, who was born in a corn field at Fairfield's heath, in this parish, in the year 1679. At the age of twenty-three years, he enlisted into His Majesty's service, under Sir George Rooke, and was at the taking of the fortress of Gibraltar in 1704. He afterwards served under the late Duke of Marlborough at the ever memorable battle of Ra- millies, fought on the twenty-third of May, 1706, where he was wounded by a musket shot in the thigh ; afterwards returned to his native country, and with manly courage defended his so- vereign's rights, at the rebellions of 1715, and 1745. He died within the space of one hundred and fifty yards of the place where he was born, and was interred here the thirtieth of January, 1791— aged one hundred and twelve years. Billetted by death, 1 quarter'd here remain, When the last trumpet sounds. I'll rise and march again." Other instances of longevity are inscribed on the tomb-stones here ; one to the memory of Sarah Wain, who died January the twenty -eighth, 1809, aged ninety -one years ; another aged ninety, and several between eighty and ninety. Mr. Nightingale states, that at or near this place, was born Andrew Bromzvich, a priest, who suffered much persecution for being a Roman Catholic He was educated at the English col- lege of Lisboe, where he was ordained, and sent back to his native country, upon the mission. He followed the sacred functions near Wolverhampton, till the plot breaking out in 1 678, he was apprehended, and committed to Stafford gaol. He was tried at the county assizes, August thirteenth, 1679, together with William Atkins, a Jesuit; Sir William Scroggs sitting upon the bench. The evidence produced against him by one Anne Robinson, who swore, that she fre- • 3 HHff*8i^J Views quently heard him say mass, and had herself received the sacrament at his hands. This dread ful charge of worshipping God according to the dictates of his own conscience, and the forms of his ancestors, was further confirmed by one Geoffrey Robinson, who deposed that he heard Mr. Bromwich repeat something in a language which the deponent did not understand, and use cer- tain ceremonies in a surplice, &c. This man's wife, Jane, being called, would not swear that she knew any thing injurious to the prisoner's character. Notwithstanding this, poor Bromwich was condemned to die ; but his abominable vile persecutors afterwards thought better of the matter, and he was reprieved and pardoned. It is painful and humiliating to a Protestant wri- ter, to have occasion to mention instances of bigotry like this ; and many, to our shame be it spoken, there are. This village was supposed to have lain waste at the conquest, being in so wild a part of the country, and is said not to have been inhabited, for a considerable time afterwards. It is not mentioned in Doomsday-book, nor in the record called Nomina Villarum, taken in the time of Edward III. Payneseley near this place is mentioned as a seat formerly belonging to the Draycots, who kept, according to the custom of those times, a fool or jester, whose name was Richard Morse. This man had a very singular sagacity in distinguishing times and particular seasons. He could not only tell the changes of the moon, the times of the eclipses, and at what time Easter and Whitsuntide would fall, or any other moveable feast whatever; but could also tell, at what time they had fallen, for several years previously — and when they would fall at any distance of years to come. The author of the Magna Britannia* conjectures that all this wonderful knowledge resulted not from any acquired knowledge, or "any thing that depends on custom or instruction," but " must be referred to some remote and unknown impression, intimately seated in his soul." HANLEY. Hanley is a very extensive modern market-town, forming a most important portion of the pot- teries, and is next in size to Burslem, which we have already described with the potteries ge- nerally, but as no part of them can exceed Hanley in the respectability of its manufactories, it deserves separate notice ; for, as Mr. Pitt justly remarks, however irregular the streets may appear to an observer in the town, Hanley, from its elevated situation, appears to great advan- tage when viewed from Cobridge, or from the turnpike-road between Newcastle and Leek, i Vol v 107# OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 121 which passes near it. The Grand Trunk canal is close to the town, and affords the utmost faci- lity of inland navigation, for the conveyance of the earthenware to Liverpool, Hull, and London. Hanley is situate about two miles northward from Newcastle and is much noticed from the elegance of its church, which was rebuilt of brick in the year 1788. This handsome and well built structure is surrounded by an extensive well enclosed cemetery — the tower of the church is one hundred feet high, and this edifice which cost upwards of ^5000. is a chapel of ease to Stoke upon Trent. The patronage is vested in certain trustees. Hanley has Methodist, and several dissenting, meeting houses. The market of this place is plentifully supplied with provisions of every description and is well attended. It appears from a statement of Mr. Pitt that "in 1812, owing to the encreasing population of the town, it was deemed necessary to apply to the legislature to empower certain trustees to enlarge the market-place, and an act for ' establishing and regulating the market, and for enlarging and improving the market-place,' at Hanley was obtained, and Wednesday and Sa- turday are mentioned as the market days, but the latter is the principal." In 1811, Hanley contained nine hundred and eleven houses, nine hundred and thirty families; two thousand one hundred and sixty-five males, two thousand three hundred and sixteen fe- males ; total, four thousand four hundred and eighty-one inhabitants. LANE END. Lake end is also a very populous and modern market-town. The church like that of Hanley, of which it is supposed to be built in imitation of, is of brick, but not so pleasantly situate, the site not being so elevated ; it appears that it was rebuilt about the year 1795. The original chapel was principally built and endowed at the charge of the late John Bourne, Esq. and was consecrated in 1764. Mr. Pitt pays the following tribute to Mr. Bourne: — " Mr. Bourne was an inhabitant of Newcastle-under-line, and as our article for that place was too copious to copy the monumental inscriptions of public characters in the church there, we hope to stand excused by our readers in taking this opportunity of recording a just tribute of respect to a pious, benevolent, man, and a benefactor to the people of Lane End. Mr. Bourne was buried at Newcastle, and in the church there, on a mural monument, is the follow- ing inscription. " In memory of John Bouene, Esq. late a worthy inhabitant of this town (Newcastle-under- line) and one of His Majesty's justices of peace for the county of Stafford. A man very re- R 122 PICTURESQUE VIEWS markable for his extensive liberality. His zeal for religion appeared from several new chapels erected and endowed in this neighbourhood, chiefly at his expence. His benevolence towards man was shewn by a constant readiness to assist the needy with whatever their wants required ; and by strenuously supporting every measure which promised happiness to mankind. As a ma- gistrate he was active and impartial, distributing justice with temper and judgment. He was kind to his relations, sincere to his friends, and forgiving to his enemies. He died a bachelor, September the thirteenth, 1764, aged seventy-three years. " He was maternal uncle to the Rev. John Fernyhough, B. D. who was forty-three years the respected and beloved minister of Newcastle, and not only succeeded to a fair portion of his uncle's fortune, but possessed his virtues also. He died March the eighth, 1803, at the same age (seventy-three) was buried March the fifteenth at the same place, and was likewise a bene- factor to Lane End chapel, inasmuch as he gave <£100. on the condition that another hundred pounds was raised, which was accordingly done by subscription, and this was procured one of the augmentations from Queen Ann's bounty to Lane End chapel. 1 ' Lane End church is a chapel of ease to Stoke. The township of Lane End, including Lang- ton, in 1811, contained one thousand and thirty-two houses, and four thousand nine hundred and thirty inhabitants, of whom two thousand two hundred and seventy-seven were males, and two thousand six hundred and fifty-three females. Mr, Pitt gives the following extraordinary instances of longevity, extracted from the parish register ; " Lydia Barber died October the twenty-seventh, 1769, aged, one hundred and seven years; Rosomond Cook, died September the twenty-third, 1774, aged one hundred and twenty- four years; Elizabeth Mills, died February the fourteenth, 1776, aged one hundred years; Sampson Smith, died August the eleventh, 1780, aged ninety -nine years, and Sarah Hollins, died November the tenth, 1780, aged one hundred years." A charity schpol for instruction in the English language was built and endowed in 1760: the benevolent Mr. Bourne is said to have been the original founder of this charity. TATENHILL. Having in the preceding pages given an account of the market-towns of this county, we shall proceed to describe some of its principal villages, and other objects, from the latest autho- rities, and conclude the work with a delineation of those seats, of which we have already pre- sented engravings. The above extensive parish, and small village, of Tatenhill, is in Scisdon hundred, in the OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 12S deanery of Tamworth, situate about two miles west by north from Wolverhampton, about the same distance west from Burton, and one hundred and thirty-two from London. It is planted in a deep narrow valley between two lofty hills skirting the eastern border of Needwood forest. The church is an ancient large stone edifice, placed on an eminence east of the village, as is also the Free school, a venerable fabric, erected in 1593, and lately much improved through the exer- tions of Mr. Kirk. Mr. Nightingale states that " the superior lords of the chief manor, origi- nally, were the Ferrers, earls of Derby,* fiom whom it descended to the house of Lancaster. In the reign of Edward III. John of Gaunt made a grant of it to Sir Philip de Somerville, for certain curious services^ which our limits will not permit us to narrate. From this family it passed by marriage to that of Griffyth, who likewise possessed the adjoining manor of Bridde- shus or Briddesdale. The parish church is a large old building, consisting of a lofty nave and chancel, and sur- mounted by a massive tower. On the floor in the body of it, are several ancient flat stones with figures cut out upon them, but in so mutilated a state as to render it impossible to ascertain any thing concerning them. The tower is remarkable as the Centrum Phonocampticum or object of an echo, which returns no less than five syllables distinctly, though the distance of the Centrum Phonicum, or speaker's place, does not exceed seventy yards.J Another uncommon echo is mentioned by Dr. Plott, as having been formerly heard near the parsonage house, which so much depended on the state of the weather, that it never answered except in frost. There are several hamlets in this parish ; but that of Burton under Needwood alone deserves to be noticed. This place was anciently called simply Berton, and seems to have been of some consequence at the time of the Norman conquest. The church, a chapel of ease to Tatenhill, is a neat building of stone founded about the commencement of the sixteenth century, by Dr. John Taylor, a native of this village, and the eldest of three at a birth. The windows of the chancel still display the remains of rich and elegantly finished paintings of the twelve apostles. In the centre one, is the figure of the Saviour upon the cross. Some years ago a variety of Roman coins were discovered in the vicinity of the small hamlet of Callingwood. A curious and beautiful model of shittim-wood, the holy sepulchre, with the church over it, was formerly deposited in a house possessed by Mr. Jolland. The history of it, as well as the name of the artist, are unknown. It is remarkable that salt is so profusely mixed with the soil of some parts of this parish, that even black cattle change their colour to a whitish dun, after grazing upon it only for a few months. To the west of the principal village lies Sinai park, once possessed by the abbots of Burton ; and now the property of the Earl of Uxbridge. It is a rough hilly piece of ground, and derived its name from some supposed resemblance be- tween it and the wilderness of Sinai. • Baron, vol. i. p. 262. t See Shaw's Staffordshire, p. 106. Blount's Tenure's, 217. Dugdale's Baronetage. % Mott's Natural History of Staffordshire, p. 28. \U PICTURESQUE VIEWS NEEDWOOD FOKEST. This highly picturesque and beautiful forest which has so long been admired, had, until within these few years, remained unenclosed in its fine natural state. It has not only been described by the historian Camden as " a spacious forest and full of parks, in which the neighbouring nobility eagerly pursue the cheerful sport of hunting," but has by a modern poet been beauti- fully described in song. About a century ago it consisted of nearly ten thousand acres in an open state of nature. It is situated in the northern extremity of the hundred of Offlow, in the four parishes of Tutbury, Hanbury, Tatenhill, and Yoxall. Jackson in his account of Tutbury says that there were for- merly eight parks, impaled within the ring of the forest, called the parks of Agardesley, Stock- ley, Barton, Heylins, Sherrold, Castle-hay, Hanbury, and Rolleston. That of Castle-hay, si- tuate about a mile from the castle, was three and a half miles in compass, and that of Hanbury, two miles and a half. In the survey of Tutbury, (of which this ancient forest or chace is the most beautiful part) at the commencement of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, the following account is given : " The forest or chace of Needwood, is in compass by estimation, twenty-three miles and a half, and the nearest part thereof is distant from the castle of Tutbury but one mile. In it are seven thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine yards and a halfe, and very forest like ground, thinly set with old oakes and timber-trees, well replenished with coverts of underwood and thornes, which might be coppiced in divers parts thereof, for increase of wood and timber, lately sore de- cayed and spoyled. It is divided into four wards, viz. Tutbury ward, Marchington ward, Yoxall ward, and Barton ward, each containing five miles or more in compasse." This forest anciently formed a portion of the Duchy of Lancaster, and after the accession of Henry IV. it belonged to the crown for centuries. The officers are composed of a lieutenant and chief ranger, assisted by a deputy and four lieutenants, four keepers, and an axe bearer, an annual court is held by the king's steward in honour of Tutbury, and a jury of twenty-four persons, residing within the jurisdiction present and amerce all persons guilty of " encroaching on the forest or committing offences in vert of venison." The eye is delighted with a great variety of picturesque beauty, particularly in the more fer- tile portions in the southern and middle divisions, which are diversified by hill and dale while the northern portion is divided into deep ravines and lofty summits, clothed with a variety of trees growing in the most luxuriant perfection, Mr. Pitt observes that " the uneven parts of the forest, comprising upwards of one thousand two hundred acres, consisting of abrupt hills and dells, will probably be appropriated to the growth of timber, and the remaining eight thousand acres added to the cultivated land of the country. One-eighth of this quantity consists of light OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 125 sound loam, adapted to the culture of turnips ; and the rest, which is generally a red, or whitish grey marly loam, will produce excellent pasturage, or be productive of good beans. In the northern extremity of the forest is a singularly romantic valley, called Bertram's din- gle, which, if private property, might be made uncommonly beautiful. Besides the natural beauties of Needwood forest, it is adorned with four handsome lodges, which have for ages been held under the crowrt on a lease of three lives, and transferred from time to time to different owners. All descriptions combine in bestowing an interesting picture of this pleasing tract of country, among others, Mr. Nightingale remarks that " the natural disposition of this forest presents a great and beautiful variety of aspect. Gradual eminences and easy vales, watered by murmuring rills, with here and there a bolder and more abrupt swell, form its general feature. In the north- ern parts, particularly within Marchington woodlands, the eminences are far more numerous and lofty than in the middle or southern divisions. The forest here exhibits to the eye, a series of deep glens, inclosed by steep and rugged precipices, incapable of agricultural improvement, but happily covered with a vast variety of trees, among which the native oak, vigorous and luxuriant, shoots up in great abundance. Mr. Shaw says, that the whole forest does not contain less than one thousand acres of oak timber, a greater quantity than perhaps any district in England can boast of possessing. The venerable Swilcar, a tree of immense size* and majestic appearance, is situated in an open lawn, surrounded by extensive woods, and is supposed to have stood upwards of six hundred years. It is thus addressed, in truly poetical strains, in the poem of "Needwood Forest." " Hail, stately oak, whose wrinkled trunk hath stood Age after age the sovereign of the wood : You, who have seen a thousand springs unfold Their ravel'd buds and dip their flowers in gold ; Ten thousand times yon moon relight her horn, And that bright eye of evening gild the morn. • • * • • Yes, stately oak, thy leaf- wrapped head sublime Ere long must perish in the wrecks of time ; Should o'er thy brow the thunders harmless break, And thy firm roots in vain the whirlwinds shake Yet must you fall. — Thy withering glories sunk, Arm after arm shall leave thy mould'ring trunk." A white or red marly loam, more or less tenacious, but seldom approaching to the harshness of clay, forms the soil in almost every part of Needwood. About a thousand acres are suffi- ciently light for turnips, and seven thousand more are equal to the production of the finest , * This noble oak measures twenty-one feet round the trunk, at the height of five feet ;' the lower stem ia ten feet high clear, the whole height sixty-five, and the extent of the arms forty-five feet : it contains ana thousand feet of solid timber. Pitt's Survey. Shaw's Staffordshire. 126 PICTURESQUE VIEWS crops of any species of grain, or to the feeding of cattle of the first rate kind. When brought to a proper state of cultivation and improvement, which can easily be effected, and we trust will shortly take place, this tract of country will be one of the most delightful and fertile districts in Great Britain On the north-west side of the forest is Ealand Lodge, the property of Lord Bagot, formerly the residence of the author of Needwood Forest, a poem (Francis Noel Clarke Mundy), who thus desciibes his beautiful retirement : — "" On this green unambitious brow, Fair mistress of the vale below, With sloping hills enclos'd around, Their heads with oaks and hollies crown'd. With lucky choice, by happy hands, Flac'd in good hour my dwelling stands ; And draws the distant traveller's eye, Enamour'd of its scenery ; Where all things give what all express, Content and rural happiness. Where far retired from life's dull form, Comes no intruder but the storm ; The storm, that with contrasted low'r Endears the fair, the silent hour. Thus their wise days our fathers led, Fleet ran their hounds, their arrows sped, And jocund health with rosy smile Look'd on, companion of their toil ; Till tyrant law usurped the land, Stretch'd o'er the woods his iron hand, Forbade the echoing horn to blow, Maim'd the staunch hound, and snapped the bow.*" • This alludes to the order for lamng, or cutting off a claw of all dogs kept within the purlieus of th» royal forests, to prevent their destroying the deer. OF STAFFORDSHIRE. t I«7 HANBURY. Hanbury is an ancient village and parish in Offlow hundred five miles from Burton upon Trent, and one hundred and thirty-one from London— in 1821 it contained twenty-eight houses, and one hundred and forty-seven inhabitants. It is a vicarage, patron, the Bishop of Lichfield. It is situated north of Needwood forest, upon an eminence that commands a very extensive prospect of the fine meadows that ornament the banks of the Dove, and also the moorlands and Peak hills. The village is as delightful in summer as it is cold and bleak in winter. Its antiquity is of great standing ; Mr. Pitt states that " in the year 680, the Saxon princess St. Werburgh re- markable for her piety, became abbess of a nunnery, founded here by her brother Ethelred, king of Mercia: she was buried in this nunnery; and in the year eight hundred and seventy- five, her bones were removed to Chester, where an elegant shrine was erected to her memory. No vestige of the nunnery is now visible ; but it doubtless stood to the east of the present church, human bones having been frequently dug up in the ground now occupied by Mr. Hunt's garden, and in an adjacent gravel-pit. A family, who took their name from the place, were lords of this manor at a very early pe- riod. At present, it belongs to the Villiers family, who appoint a game-keeper, and claim com- mon rights on Needwood forest : the manor-house commands a most extensive prospect. Han- bury church is an ancient stone edifice, with a square tower ; it stands on the edge of a steep declivity, and was formerly a rectory, but is now a vicarage in the deanery of Tamworth. It is dedicated to St. Werburgh, and was founded long before the conquest : the presentation is vested in the bishop of Lichfield and Coventry. In the year 1793, the Rev. Hugh Bailye pulled down the old vicarage-house, and built a new one on the opposite side of the church which com- mands a charming and extensive prospect. Extract from the Parish Register.—" On Sunday the fourteenth of September, 1777, about eleven o'clock in the forenoon, a smart shock of an earthquake was felt in several places of this neighbourhood (but not in the village) in some places indeed, particularly Cheshire and Lanca- shire, it was so violent, that the people fled out of the churches in great terror. 1 * There are several other interesting villages and hamlets in the parish of Hanbury ; the ham- let of Faulde is delightfully situated on a fine natural terrace, rising over the meadows of the Dove. Coton-under-Needwood, and Draycot-under-Needwood are also manors in the parish of Han- bury ; the former, belonging to Charles Adderley, Esq. was greatly improved a few years since: according to the statement of Mr. Pitt, the ancient hall was pulled down, and the present com- modious mansion built on its site in 1790, with suitable offices, and extensive and picturesque 128 PICTURESQUE VIEWS gardens and pleasure-grounds. English hospitality prevailed here some years ago, when the social friends, Messrs. Adderley and Scott made it their residence. In the summer months they pitched a tent upon a circular hill above Coton, where a flag was hoisted, when they were at home, as a signal to their friends : ** O mark upon yon round ascent The social flag and open tent, Where life's smooth paths with flowers are strewn, And mirth makes every hour its own." The flag-staff was struck in the year 1796. Draycot-under-Needwood was another of the manors comprised in the gift of William the Conqueror to Henry-de-Ferrers. It is recorded in Doomsday-book, in the following terms : " The said Henry holds Draicote, which contains half a hide. The arable land is one caru- cate in demesne, and four villans, and four bordars have two carucates. There are twelve acres of meadow, a wood half a mile in length, and the same in breadth. The whole being valued at fifteen shillings.'* This manor has for ages been in the possession of the ancient family of Vernon, who came originally from a town of that name in Normandy. In the meadow beyond Draycot mills are the ruins of an old mansion, encompassed by a moat with a small drawbridge on the eastern side. This was doubtless the manor-house, or residence of the ancient proprietors. There are several extensive and extremely fertile meadows in the vicinitv of Draycot : the turnpike-road from Lichfield to Sudbury passes through this manor. The lowlands and meadows on the banks of the Dove amply compensate for the exposed and bleak hills that surround it. The daisy, which Montgomery thus beautifully describes, may be found here at almost any period of the year. ** There is a flower, a little flower, With silver crest and golden eye, That welcomes every changing hour, And weather's every sky. The fonder beauties of the field In gay but quick succession shine, Race after race their honours yield, They flourish and decline. But this small flower to nature dear, While moon and stars their courses run, Wreaths the whole circle of the year, Companion of the sun. It smiles upon the lap of May, To sultry August spreads its charms, Lights pale October on his way, And twines December's arms. . h « @ C") H # (0 © u u I i R 2 1 o n OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 129 The purple heath, and golden broom, On moory mountains catch the gale. O'er lawns the lily sheds perfume, The violet in the vale. But this bold floweret climbs the hills, Hides in the forest, haunts the glen, Plays on the margin of the rills, Peeps round the fox's den. Within the garden's cultur'd sound, It shares the sweet carnations bed ; And blooms on consecrated ground, In honour of the dead. The lambkin crops its crimson gem, The wild bee murmurs on its breast, The blue-fiy bends its pensile stem, That decks the skylark's nest. 'Tis Flora's page : — in every place In every season fresh and fair, It opens with perennial grace, And blossoms every-where. * On waste and woodland, rock and plain, Its humble buds unheeded rise ; The Rose has but a summer's reign The Daisy never dies." SMETHWICK. Smethwick has become a place of considerable importance, from its contiguity to Birmingham 3 and from the advantage of the Birmingham canal passing through it. It is a township in Har- borne parish, four miles west by north from Birmingham, and one hundred and sixteen from London. In 1811 it contained six hundred and thirty-one males, and six hundred and ninety- seven females, total one thousand three hundred and twenty-eight. In 1821 it contained three hundred and thirty-four houses, and one thousand nine hundred and fifty inhabitants. Mr, S 180 PICTURESQUE'. VIEWS Pitt says that this manor was formerly the joint property of Mr. John Reynolds, and Mr. John Baddeley ; the latter gentleman was a native of Shropshire, a most ingenious self-taught mecha- nic, and mathematical instrument maker. In 1819 a neat chapel was erected here from a liberal donation of Mrs. Dorothy Parkes and other voluntary contributions. There are several consi- derable manufactories in the neighbourhood. Smithfield Grove., the residence of — — Bacchus, Esq. is a neat and handsome structure t the scenery around it is very beautiful, and the grounds are laid out with great taste. MARCHINGTON. Marchington is a small village or township and chapelry, in the parish of Hanbury, in Offlow hundred, three miles south-east from Uttoxeter, and one hundred and five from London. In 1821 it contained one hundred and thirty-seven houses, and seven hundred and eighty -one inha- bitants, including Marchington-Woodlands, forming a second township which consists of several detached taverns and houses, rising a mile westward of Marchington chapel. Marchington vil- lage also gradually rises on the southern side of the woody theatre of Needwood forest, and is bounded on the north, by the beautiful river Dove. The manor belongs to the Talbot family. — Pitt says that the earliest record of this manor is in the will of Wulfric Spot, the founder of Burton abbey, dated A. D. 1004, in which he grants it to Wulfug. It was afterwards part of the demesne lands appertaining to the honour of Tutbury, given by the Conqueror to Henry de Ferrers, and is thus mentioned in the survey recorded in Doomsday-book : " Henry holds Merchametone, in which are two hides, and in Edgarsley, one virgat of land. Ulric formerly held it, and was a freeman. The arable land is seven carucates ; in demesne there are two, with one servant, eighteen villains, and nine bordars, who have three carucates ; there are forty acres of meadow, a wood affording pasture for cattle or d*»er, three miles in length and one mile and a half in breadth :* the whole was then valued at one hundred shilline;s. OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 181 WHICHNOR. Whichnor is situated on an eminence on the northern bank of the Trent, midway between Burton and Lichfield ; several curious customs are attached to this village and manor. It was held in the tenth year of the reign of Edward III. by Philip de Somerville, under John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, lord of the honour of Tutbury ; Sir Philip held this and other ad- joining manors, under the tenure of keeping a flitch of bacon hanging in his hall at Whichnor, at all seasons except during Lent, as a reward to any male or female, who could swear that he or she had been united in Wedlock, a year and a day without repenting ; and that if they were single, and to be married again, the demandant would take the same party again, in preference to any other. The following is an extract translated from the ancient charter, originally written in French. " Nevertheless the said Sir Philip shall fynde meyntienge and susteiyne, one bacon flyke hanging in his halle, at Wichenore, ready arrayed all tymes of the yere, bott in Lent, to be given to everyche mane or womane married, after the day and yere of their marriage be passed ; and to be given to everyche mane or womane married, after the day and yere of their marriage be passed ; and to be given to everyche man of religion, archbishop, pnor, or other religious ; and to everyche preest, after the year and day of their profession finished or of their dignity, reseyved fn forme following. Whensoever that any such before named wylle come for to enquire for the baconne in their on person, or by any other for them, they shall come to the bayliff or porter of the lordfhip of Whichenour, and shall say to them in the manere as ensewethe : " Bayliff or porter, I doo you to know that I am come for myself (or, if he come for any other shewing for whome) one bacon flyke, hanging in the halle of the lord of Whichenour, after the forme thereto longinge. " After which relation, the bailiffe or porter shal assigne a daye to him, upon promise of his feythe to return, and with him to bring tweyne of his neighbours, and in the meyn time the said bailif shall take with him tweyne of the freeholders of the lordship of Whichenoure, and they three shal goe to the mannour of Rudlowe, belonging to Robert Knyghtley, and there shall somon the foresaid Knightley, or his bayliffe, commanding him to be ready at Whichenour, the day appointed at pryme of day with his carriage ; that is to say, a horse and sadyle, a sakke, and a pryke, for to convey and carry the said bacon and corn a journey out of the county of Stafford at his costages ; and then the sayd bailiffe shall with the said freeholders, somon all the tenants of the said manoir to be ready at the day appointed at Whichenour, for to doe and performe the services to the baconne. And at the day assigned all such as owe services to the baconne shall be ready at the gate of the manoir, from the sonne risinge to none, attendyng and awayting for the comyng of him and his felowys chapaletts, and to all those whiche shal be m 182 PICTURESQUE VIEWS there to doe their services deue to the haconne : and they shall lead the said demandant, wythe tromps and tabours, and other manner of mynstralseye to the halle close where he shal fynde the lord of Whichenour, ready to deliver the baconne in this manere. " He shall enquire of him which demandeth the baconne, if he hath brought tweyne of his neighbours ; who must answere, They be here redy ; and then the stweward shall cause these two neighbours to swere yf the said demandant be a weddyt man, or have be a man weddyt, and yf syth his marriage one yere and a day be passed, and yf he be a freeman or villeyn : and yf his seid neighbours make othe that he hath for hym all these three points rehersed, then shal the bacon be take downe and brought to the halle dore, and shall there be layed upon one half a quarter of wheatte, and upon one other of rye ; and he that demandeth the baconne shall kneel upon his knee, and shall hold his right hand upon a booke, which shall be laid above the baconne and the corne, and shall make oath in this manere. " Here ye Sir Philip de Somervyle, lord of Whichenour, mayntayner and giver of this ba- conne, that I A. syth I wedded B. my wife, and syth I had her in my kepyng and at wylle by a yere and a daye after our marryage, I would not have changed for none other, farer ne fowler, richer ne powrer, ne for none other descended of gretter lynage, slepyng ne waking, at noo tyme, and if the seid B. were sole and I sole, I wolde take her to be my wife before all the wymen of the world, and of what conditions soevere they be, good or evyle, as help me God, and his seyntys, and this flesh and all fleshes. " And his neighbours shal make oath that they trust verily he hath said truely. And yf it be founde by his neighbours aforenamed, that he be a freeman, there shall be delyvered to him halfe a quarter of wheatte, and a cheese ; and yf he be a villein, he shall have half a quarter of rye, withoutte cheese and then shal Knyghtley the lord of Rudlowe, be called for to carry all their things to fore rehersed, and the said corn shall be leyd upon one horse, an the baconne apperteyneth, shal ascend upon his horse, and shall take the chese before hym, if he have a horse, and yf he have none, the lord of Whichenour, shall cause him to have one horse, and sadyl, to such tyme as he passed his lordshippe, and so shal they departe the manoyr of Whichenour, with the corn and the baconne to fore him, him that hath wonne ytt, with trompets, tabourets, and other manoir of minstralsce, and all the free tenants of Whichenour; shall con- duct him to be passed the lordship of Whichenour { and then shall they retorne, except hym to whom apperteyneth to make the carriage and journey withoutte the countye of Stafford at t*he costys of his lord of Wfiichenour, and yf the seid Robert Knyghtley, do not cause the baconne and corne to be conveyed as is rehersed, the lord of Whichenour shal do it to be carryed, and shal distreigne the said Robert Knightiey, for his default for one hundred shillings, in his ma- noir of Rudlowe, and shall kepe the distresse so takyn irreplevisable." OP STAFFORDSHIRE. 13S CARES WELL. Careswell; or, as it is frequently spelled Caverswell, or Caverswall, is celebrated for its castie, built by Sir William de Caverswall, in the reign of Edward II.; it is a very noble and durable structure of stone, with four lower towers ornamenting this stately edifice — which consists of a lofty keep, with an inner court : the whole is surrounded by a deep moat, well supplied with water, rendering it inaccessible. The north-west front leading to the village is concealed by an high wall, extending along the side of the street to the church-yard : strangers are entirely ex- cluded. Pitt describes it as consecrated ground, and states that u in the year 1811, a number of nuns, who had emigrated from France, and settled at Preston in Lancashire, removed to Caverswall Castle, as a more secluded place. This castle, which was sold by the Hon. Booth Grey, to Mr. Brett, a banker, of Stone, in this county, was taken on lease, by Walter Hill Coyney, Esq. of Weston Coyney, for the nuns ; and the sisterhood, amounting to sixteen in number, with their confessor, came hither. This priest, who is a man of very agreeable man- ners, has taken much pains to convert several of the peasantry of the parish to the principles of Catholicism, His success, however, has not been commensurate to his zeal ; when he has any thing to bestow upon them, they are mean and willing enough to receive it; but he has disco- vered that the majority of his converts come to the chapel in Caverswall Castle more for the hope of gain than the hope of salvation. In the mean time, the nuns are sufficiently active in the good work of instructing young ladies in the principles of their faith, and they have at pre- sent, about thirty pupils in progress. Their discipline is sufficiently strict ; the pupils wear an uniform of buff-coloured cotton ; they are not suffered to ramble beyond the bounds of the gra- vel-walk which surrounds the moat, and two or three small fields ; they walk two and two, like other boarding-school girls, and in their half-hour's exercise along the walk in the garden, are required, as a religious duty, to utter their ave-marias and pater-nosters in a low voice. The nuns themselves may be termed the Black Ladies. Their dress is entirely sable, with long thick black veils thrown over the right shoulder. Their demeanour is grave, and they generally walk with a book in their hands. Their countenances are pleasing and pensive ; and if a man ap- proach them, they turn away as if they feared the imputation of vanity, or were in danger of weakening their principles by gratifying the eye of curiosity ." Caverswall is a parish in Totmanslow hundred, three miles west of Cheadle, and one hundred and forty-six from London. In 1801, it contained about one hundred and fifty houses, and eight hundred inhabitants. In 181 1, the parish, including the township of Weston Coyney and Hulmes, contained one hundred and seventy houses, and nine hundred inhabitants. In 1821, Caverswall parish alone was returned as containing ninety-two houses, and five hundred and fifty-five inhabitants. It is a vicarage valued, in the King's Books, at £l. 5*. at?. 334 PICTURESQUE VIEWS Of its ancient history, Mr. Nightingale gives the following account : — " Towards the latter end of the reign of Edward II. Sir William de Careswell built a large, and uncommonly strong, stone Castle, at this place, and surrounded it by extensive ponds, and a deep mote, with a draw- bridge. The heads of the ponds had square turrets, for farther defence of the place. It was, for a long time, the chief seat of the ancient and noble family of the Vanes, now extinct." The old Magna Britannia gives the following account of this castle : — * Careswell, or Caverswell, was, 20 Conq. held of Robert de Stafford, by Ernulph de Helding, but hath long been the lordship of a family of that name, antient and gentile, descended, probably, from him ; for, in the reign of Richard the First, one Thomas de Careswell, knight, whose grandson William de Careswell, erected a goodly castle in this place ; the pools, dams, and houses of office, being all masonry. His posterity enjoyed it till 19th of Edward the Third, when, by the heir-general, it passed from the Careswells to the Montgomeries ; and from them, by the GifFords and Ports, to the family of Hastings, Earls of Huntingdon, who were owners of it in the last century, [the seventeenth] and, as we suppose, are still. The castle, in the beginning of that century, was in reasonable good repair ; but was suffered to run into decay (if not ruinated on purpose) by one Brown, the farmer of the lands about it, lest his lord should be at any time in the mind to live there, and take the domain from him. It hath been since sold to Matthew Cradock, Esq. in whose posterity it was in 1655, but is since come to Captain Packer."* This Matthew Cradock was the son of George Cradock of Stafford, a wool merchant, who was clerk of the assize of this circuit ;-f- he built a good house on the part of the site of the castle : of this house, Plot,:}: and Mr. Grose have both given engraved views. It was after this place had passed out of the hands of the Cradocks, that it became the property of William, Viscount Vane, of Ireland, who pos- sessed it in right of his mother, the daughter and coheir of Sir William Jolliffe, Knt. who mar- ried Mary, daughter of Ferdinando, the sixth earl of Huntingdon.§ It is now the property of the Hon. Booth Grey, brother of the earl of Stamford. Lelandll calls it " the castel or prati pile of Cauerwell." Jn Careswell Church is a monument erected to the memory of William de Careswell, the builder of the castle. It bears the following inscription : " Willielmus de Careswellis." This is at the head. Surrounding it is this distich : " Castri structor eram, domibus, fossisq ; eemento Vivis dans operam, nunc claudor in hoc monumento." A nglice : " 1 built this castle, with its rampiers round, For the use of the living, who am under ground. * Magna Brit, in loco. t Holland's Camden. Degge, MS. N. on Plot, p. 448. Erdeswicke, p. 86, spud (lough's Camden, 11. 507. J Nat. Hist. Staff, plate xxxvii. Sir £. Brydges' Collins' Peerage, vol. vi. p. 660. || It. vii. 36. OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 186 According to Erdeswicke, the following lines were subsequently written on this monument : " William of Careswell here lye I, That built this castle, and pooles hereby : William of Careswell here thou mayest lye ; But thy castle is down, and thy pooles are dry.''* It has been thought, that this latter portion of the stanza was written to excite the attention of the owner of the castle to its ruinous state, and to induce him to notice the rapacious conduct of his tenant Brown. The former portion, it will be observed, Is an imperfect translation of the original Latin epitaph. HAMSTALL RIDWARE, PIPE RIDWARE, AND MAVESYN RIDWARE, Are all manors to which considerable historical interest is attached, particularly the latter, which is bounded on the south by the southern bank of the Trent ; on the east by Hamstall Ridware ; on the north by the river Blythe, and on the west by the parish of Colton. After the conquest, this manor was given by William I. to Roger de Montmorency, and it was subse- quently held under him by Azeline, another adventurous follower of the conqueror. It is sup- posed to have passed in right of blood from Azeline, to the family of the Mavysns, and accord- ing to Pitt's account, " the manor continued in the possession of the Mavesyn family for ten generations." In the year 1403, Sir Robert Mavesyn, Knt. was slain at the battle of Shrews- bury. It appears that a feud had previously existed between this gentleman and Sir William Handsacre ; and their animosity was influenced by the civil war. An authentic account of the termination of the quarrel between these knights is preserved in Latin in the British Museum, to the following purport. The river Trent flows with a clear stream by Mavesyn Ridware, so called because on its southern bank is situated the ancient inheritance of the Mavesyns. The inhabitants say that a jealousy subsisting between the families of Mavesyn and Handsacre, it %B * Magna Brit. v. p. 99. 136 PICTURESQUE VIEWS x happened when Henry IV. had obtained the crown of England from Richard I., and it was ru moured that Percy, of Northumberland, was in arms against the king, Mauvesin had ridden forth with six or seven of his vassals on the part of King Henry : it chanced also that Hands- Acre, who espoused the opposite cause, had left home the same day, with an equal number of attendants, to join Percy. These rivals met, and, inflamed with rage, rushed furiously to battle ; Handsacre was slain ; and the victorious Mauvesin, proud of his conquest, marching to Shrews- bury, there lost his life, fighting valiantly for the king. Mauvesin and Handsacre fought on an open flat meadow, just above High-bridge, in Mavesyn Ridware, lying on the side of the Trent between their respective mansions, which are in sight of each other. Sir Robert left behind him two daughters : Margaret, the younger daughter, became the wife of Sir William Handsacre, Knt., and thus terminated a feud which had been so fatal. Sir John Carvarden, Knt. married Elizabeth the eidest daughter, and co-heiress of Sir Robert Mavesyn ; and the manor devolved on their descendants for seven generations. In the eighth year of James I., A. D. I6ll, this mansion and its dependencies were possessed by Gerard Stanley, Gent, of Harlaston, in this county, and John Chadwick, Esq., of Wadelane House, in Mavesyn Ridware. Mr. Chadwick in right of his wife, became possessed of the ancient manor house, with five parts in eight of the manor, and the whole of the fishery. In 1600 he became sole lord of Pipe Ridware, with lands, and the fishery of the Trent down to King's Bromley, by purchase. In 1600 he gave the manor of Pipe Riaware to Henry Agarde, Esq. of King's Bromley, m exchange for lands in Mavesyn Ridware, and a fishery in the Trent, within Armitage, and Handsacre, above High- bridge, so that he extended his right to both sides of the river. * Mavesyn Ridware has continued in the family of the Chadwickes for upwards of two cen tunes" OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 137 CONCLUSION. ■ It was originally intended to describe in this work, only a few of the principal towns, and the seats of the nobility and gentry, ancient castles, &c, without entering into a general dry topographical detail. It will be found, however, that not only all the market towns, but the principal villages, and the most picturesque objects have been noticed. Similar descriptions of gentlemen's seats, with regard to situation, scenery, ha. has been al- most unavoidable, nor could the whole be described, without entering into a work of treble the extent of the present one ; we therefore hope to be pardoned for any places that may be omitted, particularly where no historical record, or object of antiquity, is connected with them. We cannot, however, conclude more appropriately, than by giving the origin, and general fea- ture of the county, in a compressed form, as so many elaborate, and expensive works upon the subject, are already before the public. This county successively belonged to the ancient Cornavii of the Britons, the division of Flavia Casarensis of the Romans, and the kingdom of Mercia, during the Saxon Heptarchy. We shall not enter into the different etymologies and various opinions as to oarticular names of places. The original great features of the county, the two Roman military ways, Watling and Ick- nield-street, pass through it ; the former entering it near Tamworth, Warwickshire, proceeding westward into Shropshire : Icknield-street, passes out of Warwickshire into Staffordshire, at Handsworth near Birmingham, proceeds beyond Shenstone, where it crosses Watling-street and continues in a direction north-east by north, over the river Dove, at Monk's bridge* in Derby- shire. A difference of opinion, however, and even a variation in the maps, respecting the de- scriptions and derivations of this road, and the exact positions of the Roman stations, occur in various writers. Staffordshire is a long narrow tract of country, entirely inland, extending about sixty miles, at its greatest length, north north-east, to south south-west; its greatest breadth, thirty-eight miles, from Newton Salney, to Terbey Heath, near Market Drayton ; to Drayton in Shrop- shire.-}- The number of acres in pasture, arable, and in woods, waters, and wastes, with the number of houses, inhabitants, the poor and parochial rates, &c. in 1801, are thus given by Mr. • PJott s Staff, p. 400. t Pitt's Agricultural Surrey of Staff, p. 2. 138 PICTURESQUE VIEWS Nightingale. " It then contained about seven hundred and eighty thousand eight hundred acres of land, of which one hundred thousand were pasture, five hundred thousand arable, and the re- maining one hundred and eighty thousand eight hundred, woods, wastes, waters, &c. By the census of the foregoing year, it appears that there were forty-five thousand, one hundred and ninety-eight houses, two hundred and thirty-nine thousand, one hundred and fifty-three inhabitants ; of which one hundred and eighteen thousand, six hundred and ninety-eight were males, and one hundred and twenty thousand four hundred and fiftyvfive females; out of the foregoing, seven- ty-two thousand four hundred and sixty-five were employed in trade and manufactures, and forty-three thousand nine hundred and thirty in agricultural pursuits. The poors' rates in 1808 amounted to £] 10,624, at 4*. Z\d. in the pound, and the property assessment in 1806 was £ 1,840,961. The parochial rates since that period have arisen to a still more alarming extent. In little more than twelve months before the year 1795, they advanced in one parish (Tattenhall) fifty per cent. The conclusion, (continues Mr. N.) therefore, if we had not actual observation to confirm our statement, is rational, that the amount of the poors* rates, since that period, has advanced in ail equal proportion." This, we conceive, will be found erroneous; 1795 was a period of the war, at which the poors' rates suddenly rose to an alarming extent; if they had continued to advance until 1806, and from that period to the present time, in a similar proportion, they would have been insup- portable. In addition to Mr. Pitt's and Nightingale's statement, of the contents of the county in acres, population, &c, it has been deemed necessary to give the last statement according to the parlia- mentary returns of 1821, and by which a comparative estimate of twenty years preceding, may be formed. Mr. Capper, of the secretary of state's office, thus describes the county. " Staf- fordshire, a county of England, bounded on the north-east by Derbyshire, on the east by Lei- cestershire, on the south-east by Warwickshire, on the south by Worcestershire, on the west by Salop, and on the north-west by Cheshire. Its length from north to south is about sixty miles, and its greatest breadth thirty-eight : it contains seven hundred and eighty thousand eight hun- dred acres of land, having about five hundred thousand arable, and one hundred thousand in pasturage. It is divided into five hundreds ; viz. Cuttlestone, Offlow, Pirchill, Seisdon, and Totmanslow, in which are one city, Lichfield ; three boroughs, Stafford, Newcastle, and Tam- worth ; sixteen market-towns ; viz. Abbot's Bromley, Brewood, Burton, Burslem, Cheadle, Eccleshall, Leek, Longnor, Penkridge, Rudgeley, Stone, Tutbury, Uttoxeter, Walsall, Wed- nesbury, and Wolverhampton ; and one hundred and eighty-one parishes ; the whole containing sixty-three thousand three hundred and nineteen houses, and three hundred and forty-one thou- sand and forty inhabitants ; viz. one hundred and seventy-one thousand six hundred and sixty- eight males, and one hundred and sixty-nine thousand three hundred and seventy-two females, q. Walsall— Benton Hall, Hon. Edward Anson ; Great Barr Hall, Sir Edward Scott ; Char- leroont Hall, Thomas Price, Esq. Wolverhampton — Woodhouse, Ely Shaw, Esq. ; Himley Hall, Lord Viscount Dudley and Ward. • 1m I ■■• OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 145 Stourton Manor and Castle. — We have omitted to notice this place, which is of some in- terest, and have given a view of Stourton Castle, which, although stated to be in ruins, is now inhabited by Madam Graisbrook. It is beautifully situated, and the surrounding country is peculiarly fine. This Castle was garrisoned during the civil wars, and in 1644 it surrendered to the King. — It was anciently the property of the Hamptons, one of whose Lords was in possession of it in the fifteenth century. This Castle is also particularly wor thy of notice, from the circumstance of the celebrated Cardinal Pole being born in it, in the year 1500. His biographer states that his descent was illustrious, being a younger son of Richard Pole, (Lord Montague) and cousin-german to Henry VII. His mother was Mar- garet, daughter of George, Duke of Clarence, brother to Edward the Fourth. This Prelate's early education was conducted by a private tutor, from whose charge he was removed, at a proper age, to Magdalen College, Oxford. Having finished his studies, he went into orders, and soon after went abroad to attend the Foreign Universities, during which time he v was allowed a very handsome pension by Henry VIII., who likewise conferred upon him se- veral Benefices, in commendam. In 1525, he returned to England, and was received by the King with distinguished marks of favour. His Court influence, however, was but of short duration; for having vigorously opposed the divorce of Catharine of Arragon, he became so obnoxious to Henry, that he was compelled to seek shelter in Italy, where he wrote his ce- lebrated piece, intituled, " De Unitate Ecclesiastical This work exasperated the Monarch so highly, that he not only deprived him of all his preferments, but even caused an Act of Attainder to be passed against him. He did not, however, sustain very material loss by this harsh conduct of his kinsman, for the Court of Rome immediately preferred him to several Benefices in Italy, and raised him to the dignity of a Cardinal. Upon the death of Pope Paul the Third he was twice elected to the vacant Throne, but declined the honour, because one election was too hasty and the other made in the night time. This truly commendable delicacy so much disobliged his friends, that they no longer afforded him their support, and in consequence the Bishop of Paletrina obtained the Papal See. Immediately after Queen Mary ascended the Throne of England the attainder against the Cardinal was repealed, and he returned with distinguished honour to his native country. His first act, upon his arrival, was to absolve the kingdom from the Papal Interdict, under which it laboured on account of the apostacy of Henry VIII. He was advanced to the Archbishopric of Canterbury, but enjoyed this situation only a few months, having died on the 17th of November, 1558, the same day on which the Queen herself expired. * Stourton has been remarked, as well as the Hyde (about a mile above Kinver) as having an iron rod mill, for rolling or slitting iron. Dr. Wilkes states that the iron rolling mill at the Hyde, was the first that was erected in England, and observes, that one Brindley, whose posterity long enjoyed it, went into Germany, and there acted the part of a fool, and by that * Geu. Biog. Diet. u 146 PICTURESQUE VIEWS means obtained this excellent machine, which has been so serviceable, and brought so much money into this country. In reference to eminent men (in addition to those already noticed in the preceding pages) born in this county, we notice the following : — Ellas Ashmole, was of humble birth, and, like Dr. Johnson, received his education at the Grammar School of Lichfield, where he was born on the 23d of May, 1617. He afterwards rendered himself conspicuous, both in a civil and military capacity, and in the world of Letters. Mr. Pitt enters into an interesting and lengthened biographical account of him ; our limits will only admit of the following compressed account, as given by Mr. Stephen Jones : — " Elias Ashmole, or Asmole, was a celebrated English Philosopher and Antiquary, and founder of the Ashmolean Museum, at Oxford. Besides filling several offices, civil and military, Mr. Ashmole was a diligent and curious collector of manuscripts. In 1650, he published a Treatise, written by Mr. Arthur Dee, on the Philosopher's Stone ; together with another Tract, on the same subject, by an unknown author. About the same time he was busied in preparing for the press a complete collection of the works of such English Chemists as had, till then, remained in manuscript. This undertaking cost him great labour and expense ; and at length the work appeared towards the close of the year, 1652. — The title of this work was ' Theatrum Chemicum Britannicum, fyc. #c.' He then applied himself to the study of antiquity and records. In 1658, he began to collect materials for his ' History of the Order of the Garter,' which he lived to finish, and did no less honour to the Order than to himself. In September following he made a journey to Oxford, where he set about a full and particular description of the coins given to the Public Library by Archbishop Laud. Upon the Restoration of King Charles II., Mr. Ashmole was introduced to his Majesty, who received him very graciously, and, on the 18th June, 1660, bestowed on him the place of Windsor Herald ; a few days after, he appointed him to give a description of his medals, which accordingly were delivered into his possession, and King Henry the Eighth's closet was assigned for his use. On the 8th of May, 1672, he presented his 'In- stitution, Laws, and Ceremonies of the Most Noble Order of the Garter ,' to the King, who received it very graciously, and as a mark of his approbation, granted him a privy seal for £400., out of the custom of paper. On the 26th of January, 1679, a fire broke out in the Middle Temple, in the next chamber to Mr. Ashmole' s, by which he lost a noble library, with a collection of 9000 coins, ancient and modern, and a vast repository of seals, charters, and other antiquities and curiosities ; but his manuscripts, and his most valuable gold medals were, luckily, at his house at South Lambeth. In 1683, the University of Oxford, having finished a magnificent Repository, near the Theatre, Mr. Ashmole sent thither his curious collection of rarities; and this benefaction was considerably augmented by the ad- dition of his manuscripts and library at his death, which happened at South Lambeth, May 18, 1692. He was interred at the church of Great Lambeth, in Surrey, on the 26th of May, 1692." . Ashmole, speaking of the robes worn by ladies at the Festivals of the Order, says : — " There OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 147 seems to he some intimation of wearing a Garter also on the left arm, as is to be observed fi'om the Countess of Tankerville's monument, in St. Katherine's Church, near the Tower :" " To which may be added," says Anstis, " the lady of Sir Robert de Harcourt, who is re- presented on her monument (in the fifteenth century) with the Garter and the Motto, ' Hony soit quy mal y pense] just above the elbow of the left arm." * Dr. Samuel Johnson. — In our account of Lichfield, only a few lines were devoted to that great and talented man : indeed, after so much has been written, and so ably, on the sub- ject, little remains of a novel character, beyond the Life and Anecdotes given of him by Sir John Hawkins, and his friends, Mrs. Thrale, and James Boswell. We shall not attempt even to abridge their statement, but merely insert the heads of his literary career and extra- ordinary labours, as compressed and described by Mr. Jones. " Dr. Samuel Johnson, was born at Lichfield, in 1709, where his father was a respectable bookseller. He was entered of Pembroke College, Oxford, October 31, 1728, but left the University without taking any degree. In March, 1737, he came to London, where he appears to have met with disappointments which disgusted him with the town ; for, in August, we find him desirous of returning again into his native country, to take upon him- self the office of Master of a Charity School, in Shropshire, then vacant, the salary of which was £60. a-year. But the Statute of the School requiring the person who should be elected to be Master of Arts, this attempt seems to have been frustrated. In 1740, he began to write the ' Debates in the Senate of Lilliput] printed in the Gentleman's Magazine ; and after producing some poems, translations, and biographical works, which met with a good reception, particularly ' London] the * Vanity of Human Wishes] and ' The Life of Savage] he brought forth ' Irene] a tragedy, in 1749. This not meeting with the success he expected, he set about his ' Dictionary.'' The execution of this plan cost him the labour of many years, but he was amply repaid by the fame he acquired. During the re- cesses of this stupendous labour, he published his * Rambler? The reputation of these Avorks gained him the honorary degree of Doctor of Laws in the University of Dublin, which was soon after followed by the same degree from Oxford. To this succeeded his ' Idlers? His next publication was i Rasselas, Prince of Abyssinia] a beautiful little novel, in the Eastern style, abounding with the most useful and moral maxims, suited to the several conditions of life. Of his political works, which followed at distant intervals, the public are more divided about the merits ; it is, however, but fair to presume, that they were his candid opinions upon the subjects, and, as such, deserving of no censure from the judgment of impartiality. His last undertaking, ' The Lives of the British Poets] would alone have been sufficient to immor- talize his name among his countrymen, as it by far exceeds anything executed upon a similar plan by foreigners ; and though the critical remarks in a few instances incorporate a little too much with political opinions, their general excellence must always give them a deserved celebrity. .It is said that he was executing a second part of * The Prince of Abys- * Nichols's Anecdotes, vol. 6, p. 327. U 2 148 PICTURESQUE VIEWS sinia? and was in hopes to have finished it before his death, which event happened -Dec. 13, 1784." The editor of the " Biographia Dramatical after bestowing many just encomiums on the genius of Dr. J., says, " it would be the highest injustice, were I not to observe that nothing but that genius can possibly exceed the extent of his erudition ; and it would be adding a greater injury to his still more valuable qualities, were we to stop here ; since, to- gether with the ablest head, he seems possessed of the very best heart at present existing. Every line, every sentiment, that issues from his pen, tends to the great centre of all his views, the promotion of virtue, religion, and humanity ; nor are his actions less pointed towards the same great end. Benevolence, charity, and piety, are the most striking fea- tures of his character ; and while his writings point out to us what a good man ought to be, his own conduct sets us an example of what he is." A statue to Dr. Johnson's memory has been erected in St. Paul's cathedral. In an East India newspaper, we met with the following picture of this celebrated character : " Herculean strength, and a stentorian voice, Of wit a fund, of words a countless choice j In learning rather various than profound, In truth intrepid, in religion sound ; A trembling frame, and a distorted sight, But firm in judgment and in genius bright : In controversy rarely known to spare, But humble as the publican in prayer ; To more than merited his kindness, kind, And, tho' in manners harsh, of friendly mind ; Deep-tinged with melancholy's blackest shade, And, tho' prepared to die, of death afraid Such Johnson was, — of him with justice vain, When will this nation see his like again ?" Elijah Fenton. — In the account of the Village ofShelton, (the birth-place of Fenton,) will be found a biographical sketch of that amiable poet, with an allusion to some of his produc- tions ; and, as his biographer remarks : — After the masterly critique of Dr. Samuel John- son, that greatest of critics and biographers, it would be ridiculous to enter into an analysis of Fenton' s original poems. " To examine his performances one by one would be tedious." — His translation of Homer into blank verse, will find few readers while another can be had in rhyme. The piece addressed to Lambarde, is no disagreeable specimen of epistolary poetry, and his ode to Lord Gower was pronounced by Pope the next ode in the English language to Dry den's " Cecilia." Fenton may be justly styled an excellent versifier, and a good poet. Isaac Hawkins Browne, — A writer of considerable talent in the early part of the 18th century, was born at Burton -upon-Trent, January 21, 1706. His father, the Rev. Wm. Browne, was minister of that parish ; and from his possessing a small inheritance, which OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 149 was increased by his union with Anne, daughter and heiress of Isaac Hawkins, Esq. the son, as Mr. Pitt truly remarks, was from his earliest infancy blest with all the aid which opulence could give to facilitate his studies. His productions would have been much more noticed and admired, but from the circumstances of many of them being written in Latin. In 1724, he was selected as a scholar upon a Foundation established by George I. at the Universities, — " for the Study of Foreign Languages and History, to qualify the Students for employments at Court, and on Foreign Embassies." During the period of his residence at Lincoln's Inn, he amused himself in writing several poetical pieces. On the 10th of Feb. 1734, he married Jane, daughter of the Rev. Dr. Trimnell, Arch- deacon of Leicester. This marriage took place when he was in the 29th year of his age, and was productive of great domestic felicity. He was twice elected a representative in Parliament for Wenlock. His greatest literary production was entitled " De Animi lmmortalitate" which was published in 1754 ; subsequent to which several translations in poetry, and in blank verse, have been published. He died after a lingering illness at his house in Great Russell Street, Bloomsburyj on the 14th Feb. 1760, in the 55th year of his age. Bishop Hurd. — Dr. Richard Hurd, Bishop of Worcester, was born in this county, at Con- greve, in the parish of Penkridge, on the 13th Jannuary, 1719-20, and received the rudiments of his education at Breewood (already noticed,) under the Rev. Wm. Budworth, head-master of the Grammar-school at that place. After completing his education at Emanuel college, Cambridge, he wrote his " Dialogues on Chivalry and Romance :" "Sermons preached at Lin- colns-inn Chapel" and " The Life of Bishop JVarburton." Dr. Hurd, who had been tutor to the Prince of Wales and the Duke of York, was highly esteemed by George III., who, on the death of Archbishop Cornwallis, offered him the Primacy, but he requested permission of the King to decline it. He died June 6th, 1808, in the 89th year of his age. A complete edition of Bishop Hurd's Works, in 8 volumes 8vo, was published in 1811, as were also editions of Addison and his friend Warburton, all prepared for the press by the Bishop.* Charles Cotton, — Who lived in the reigns of Charles and James II, was born atBerresford in this county, on the 28th April, 1630, and was educated at the University of Cambridge. This eccentric genius was famous for burlesque poetry. He also translated Corneille's tragedy of "Horace" in 1671, and published poems on several occasions: — " The iwnders of the Peak in Derbyshire ;" " Scaronides, or Virgil Travestie;" and " Lucian Burlesqued, or the Scoffer scoffed.'''' — S. Jones remarks, that an edition of the three-last mentioned was printed in 1715, and has frequently been re-printed, but the chief of all his productions, and for which perhaps J he deserves the best praise of his countrymen, is his translation of " Montaigne 's Essays." Cotton wrote at a period of levity and dissipation, and appears to have experienced many * Nichols's Literary Anecdotes, vol. 6, p. 468. 150 PICTURESQUE VIEWS adversities with his associate Wits of the day, and which the following extract from one of his poetical epistles to a friend will testify : " He always wants money, which makes him want ease, He's always besieged, though himself of the peace, By an army of duns, who batter with sandals, And are foemen more fierce than the Goths and the Vandals." Tliomas Astle. — Was born at Yoxall, in this county, on the 22d Dec. 1735. This eminent English antiquary, originally bred to the Law, excelled all who had gone before him, as well as his contemporaries, in deciphering ancient records. In 1763, he obtained the patronage of Mr. Grenville, who, as First Lord of the Treasury, caused him to be employed as an assistant to Sir Jos. Ayloffe, and Dr. Ducarel, in the regu- lation of the public records of Westminster. He was afterwards engaged as a literary assistant at the British Museum. He was patronised by Lord John Townshend, and became acquainted with Mr. Morant (author of the " History of Essex") and whose daughter he married with an ample fortune after her father's demise. In 1765-1766, he was appointed Receiver- General of 6d. in the pound, on the Civil List, and was employed in preparing the Harleian Catalogues of MSS. in the British Museum. In 1775, he published the will of King Henry VII. in 4to, also a catalogue of the MSS. and Charters in the Cotton Library. In 1784, he published his great treatise on " Tlie Origin and Progress of Writing, as well Hieroglyphical as Elementary" &c. In 1788, his copy of the Will of King Alfred, was printed at Oxford. A short time previous to this, he was appointed Keeper of the Rolls and Records in the Tower of London ; and in 1787 elected a Trustee of the British Museum. A new edition of his treatise on Writing was published just before his death, which oc- curredDec. 1, 1803, atBattersea in Surrey. Dr. John Lightfoot, — A learned and eminent divine^ was born in this county, at Stoke- upon-Trent, on the 29th of March, 1602. Mr. Pitt, who gives a fuller biographical account of him than our limits will admit, states, that he was in holy orders fifty-six years, thirty-six of which he was vicar of Uttoxeter. He appears to have been universally admired as a man of great piety and learning. Mr. Pitt, in concluding his account of him, says, " In rabbinical learning, Dr. Lightfoot was equalled by few of his contemporaries, and excellea oy none ; and foreigners who came to England to prosecute those studies, visited him for the purpose of instruction ." Tliomas Blake, — Of whom Mr. Pitt gives a short biographical memoir, was, as he staffs ''bom in Staffordshire, in the year 1597, and in the 19th year of his age he was entered <>t Christ Church, Oxford, where he passed through different gradations of academic distinction and afterwards went into the Church. In 1648, he promoted the cause of the republicans and became an eminent puritanical divine. After he subscribed to the Covenant, he was OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 151 appointed pastor of St. Alemonds, in Shrewsbury, and was afterwards minister of Tamworth, (in his native county,) where he died, and was buried, in June, 1657, in the 60th year of his age, and was buried in the church of that town. Mr. Anthony Birch, an eloquent preacher, of Sutton -Coldfield, preached his funeral Sermon." Richard Meadowcourt, — Who was bom in this county, in 1697, was an English critic of considerable celebrity. He was educated at Merton College, Oxford, and is described by Chalmers, and others, as a great critic and his critical remarks on the English poets did not escape the notice and praise of the late Bishop Newton, in publishing his edition of Milton. In addition to a number of sermons and tracts, he wrote a critical dissertation, with notes, upon " Milton's Paradise Regained" The Rev. Stebbing Shaw. — This gentleman is particularly deserving of notice in this place, as the author of " The History and Antiquities of Staffordshire, compiled from the manuscripts of Huntbach, Loxdale, Bishop Lyttleton, and other collections of Dr. Wilkes, the Rev. T. Fielde, &c. &c, including ' Erdiswicke's Survey of the County,'' and the approved parts of ' Dr. Plot's Natural History.'' The whole brought down to the present time, interspersed with pedigrees and anecdotes of families ; observations on agriculture commerce, mines, and manufactories ; and illustrated with a very full and correct new map of the county, Agri Staffordiensis Icon, and numerous other plates, by the Rev. Stebbing Shaw, B.D. F.R.S., and Fellow of Queen's College, Cambridge." According to the account of his biographer, he was born at Stone, in this county, in the year 1762. He was the son of the Rev. Stebbing Shaw, rector of Hartshorn, near Ashby- de-la-Zouch, where his mother inherited a small estate, which descended to him. He was educated by that ingenious poet and scholar, the Rev. William Bagshaw Stephens, at the Grammar School, at Repton, near Hartshorn. At an early period he evinced a love of liter- ature. To give a full biographical memoir of him would exceed the limits of this work. We shall confine ourselves to the bridf outline given of him in " TJie Literary Anecdotes of the \Sth Century." " The Rev. Stebbing Shaw, of Queen's College, Cambridge, B.A. 1734, M.A. 1787, B.D. 1796, F.S.A. 17 — ; Rector of Hartshorn, county of Derby, in which he suc- ceeded his father. He was author of ' A Tour to the West of England, 1788, 8vo. ;' and joint editor, with Sir Egerton Brydges, of ' Tlie Topographer,' 4 vols. 8vo. 1789 — 1791 ; but better known by his last valuable publication, ' TJie History of the County of Stafford.' He unfortunately left this work incomplete, but Mr. Shaw's MSS. having been purchased by a gentleman of ample talents and strong inclination to complete them, the work will al- ways be considered a valuable one. " Together with the great skill in topography, Mr. Shaw possessed the advantage of aieady and accurate pencil. To those accomplishments he added a very great proficiency in. music ; 152 PICTURESQUE VIEWS and they were heightened by the perfect goodness of his heart, which render his loss a severe affliction to all who had the happiness of his acquaintance. His warmth of friendship was, indeed, demonstrable in whatever he wrote ; of which the preface to his Staffordshire, and many of his letters to Mr. Urban, reporting progress in that laborious undertaking, are striking examples. He had a very ready pencil, and his views are in general accurate ; his bodily frame was delicate, and overcome by the toils of a studious life, he fell into a mental imbecility, from which he was released by death at an early age, October 28, 1802. Archbishop Sheldon. — Gilbert Sheldon, Archbishop of Canterbury, was born at Stanton, in this county, on the 19th July, 1598. His biographer says, that at the time of his birth, his father was a menial servant to the Earl of Shrewsbury, who stood sponsor for him at his baptism, and gave him the name of Gilbert. Under the patronage of this nobleman, young Sheldon received a classical education, and took the degree of Batchelor of Arts, in Trinity College, Oxford, November 27, 1617, in the twentieth year of his age, and that of Master of Arts, May 20, 1620. He was elected Fellow of All-Soul's College, Oxford, in the year 1622, entered into holy orders, and having attracted the notice of Lord Keeper Coventry, he was appointed domestic Chaplain by that Statesman, and, in consequence of his abilities, employed in various affairs, relating both to church and state. Lord Clarendon observes, that Sheldon soon became distinguished for his uncommon abilities and attainments, and was considered by competent judges to be fully qualified to shine in any ecclesiastical preferment. To follow Archbishop Sheldon through his highly-gifted and talented career up to the summit of his dignity would fill a volume. He lived to the advanced age of eighty, and after so lenthened and active, and well spent a life, this great and venerable prelate died at Lambeth, Nov. 9, 1677. He was interred in the church, at Croydon, in Surrey, where an uncommonly fine monument was erected to his memory, by his nephew and heir, Sir Joseph Sheldon, the son of his eldest brother, Ralph Sheldon, of Stanton, in Staffordshire. This monument is not, perhaps, exceeded in the beauty of design, or in execution, by any in the kingdom. It is wholly composed of the finest and purest specimen that we have seen of white polished marble — the fine features, figure, drapery, the crozier, mitre — and even the pillow upon which the head and arm recline — are of the most elaborate workmanship. Dr. James. — This celebrated character was born at Kinverston, in this county, at the commencement of the eighteenth century. He was a very copious medical writer, and his great work, his " Medical Dictionary" has always been highly estimated, and new editions have continued to be published, with all the modern improvements in the science of medi- cine, by the most able hands. He also wrote a number of detached medical works, but the moat popular was a dissertation upon fevers, being a vindication of his " Fever Powders, 1 J which have maintained their celebrity for upwards of a century. It has proved a noble OF STAFFORDSHIRE. 153 fortune to Dr. James's family. Dr. James was the son of a major in the army ; his mother was a sister of Sir Robert Clarke. — He received his education at Oxford, at which place he took up his degree of A. B., and commenced author about 1743, and died in the year 1776. Isaac Walton. — This talented and interesting writer was born in the town of Stafford in this County, on the 9th day of August, 1593, and his life may be said to be as amiable and entertaining as those of whom he wrote, viz. Wotton, Donne, Hooker, and Herbert. A new and improved edition of these latter has been published by Mr. Zouch Isaac Walton was also author of that celebrated work, " The Complete Angler, or Contemplative Marl's Recreation" and of "Lives of several Eminent Englishmen" both works of superlative merit. He was born in 1593, and died in 1685. Edmund Dudley. — This celebrated, but unfortunate and unprincipled lawyer and statesman was born in Staffordshire, in 1442, and as the historical documents and evidence against him are on record, and exceed our limits, we shall merely refer to them, as well as to those of his son, John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, who was also born in this county, near Okeover, in 1502. Of the Peerage of Staffordshire, references have already been made to some of the principal pesonages, in describing their mansions, Uttoxeter. — Near this town is Beamhurst, the seat of Henry Mountford, Esq. Great historical interest attaches to this ancient and noble family. Henry Mountford, Esq. is heir-at-law of the late Simon Mountford, Earl of Leicester, and has in his possession the arms of that family, as well as those of another branch of it equaly ancient ; both titles were forfeited at the same period. Beamhurst Hall is pleasantly situate in a delightful part of this County. finis. INDEX. Abbots-Bromley, 18 Adderley, Ralph, Esq. 37 Alton Abbey, 28—29 Anglesea, Marquis of, 67 — 69 Anson, Viscount, 12 — 16 Armitage Park, 22—24 Ashmole Elias, 146 Astle, Thomas, 150 Bagot, Lord William, 19—21 Bakewell, Thomas, 44 * Barlaston Hall, 37 Beamhurst Hall, 153 Beaudesert, 67 — 69 Bishton Hall, 27 Blake, Thomas, 150 Blythefield Park, 19—21 Breewood, 111—112 Browne, Isaac Hawkins, 148 Burton-upon-Trent, 73 — 78 Cares well or Caverswell, 133 Caverswell Castle, 133—135 Cheadle, 78—82 Chillington, 112 Constable, Sir T. A. C. 34—35 Cotton, Charles, 149 Croxden and Croxden Abbey, 86—87 Curzon, the Hon. R. M.P. 24—26 Darlaston Hall, 43 Dartmouth, Earl of, 65—66 Dudley Castle, 52—56 Dudley Family, 52—56 Eccleshall, 104—107 Elford, 70—72 Fenton, Elijah, 88—91—148 Fitzherbert, Thomas, Esq. 31— 32 Gifford Family, 112 Gough Family, 73 Great Barr Hall, 49—50 Hagley Hall, 24—25 Hamstall Ridware, 135—136 Hanbury, 127—129 Hanley, 120—121 Harrowby, Earl of, 30—31 Hurd, Bishop, 149 Jervis, Swinfen, 43 James, Dr. 152 Ingestrie, 32—33 Johnson, Dr. Samuel, 3 — 4 — 147 148 Kynnersley, T. S. Esq. 27 Lane-End, 121—122 Leek, 99—104 Lichfield, 1—4 Lightfoot, Dr. John, 150 Lister, Thos. Esq. L.L.D. 22— 23—24 Longnor, 119 Marchington, 130 Mavesyn, Ridware, 135 — 136 Meadowcourt, Richard, 151 Meaford Hall, 38—43 Montfort, H. Esq. 153 Needwood Forest, 124—126 Newcastle-under-Line, 82 — 85 Peel Family, 141 Penkridge, 117—118 Perry Hall and Park, 73 Pipe-Ridware, 135—136 Potteries, 56—63 Rudgeley, 113—114 SandonHal), 30—31' Sandwell Park, 65—66 Scott, Sir Edward, 49 Seats and Mansions, list of, 140 —149 Shaw, Rev. Stebbing, 151 Sheldon, Archbishop, 152 Shelton, 88—91 Shrewsbury, Earl of, 28 — 29 Shugborough, 12 — 16 Smethwick, 129—130 Soho, 46—48 Sparrow, John, Esq, 27 Spring- Vale, 44—46 Stafford, County, general account 137—145 Stafford, Marquis of, 5 Stafford, town of, described, 10 —11 Stone, 36—37 Stourton Manor and Castle, 145 Swinnerton Hall, 31—32 Talbot, Earl, 32—33 Tam worth and Castle, 91 — 96 Tatenhill, 122—123 Tixall, 34—35—141—142—143 Trentham Hall, 5—10 Tutbury, 107—111 Uttoxeter, 96—99 Vincent, Lord St. 38—43 Walsall, 51 Wedgewood, 58 — 63 Wednesbury, 114 — 116 West Bromwich, 64 Whichnor, 131—132 Wilson, Col. 26 Wolsely Hall, 21—22 Wolseley, Sir Charles, 21—22 Wolverhampton, 16 — 18 Wootton Hall, 26—27 LIST OF PLATES, AND DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. To face Page Lichfield Cathedral (vignette) Lichfield Cathedral, (frontitpiece) 1 Trentham Hall 5 Wolverhampton , 16 Sandwell Hall 65 Beaudesert , 67 Barr Hall 49 Smethwick Grove 128 Soho 46 Wolseley Hall 21 Bishton Hall 27 Perry Hall 73 Stafford Castle ] I Stafford 10 Tixall Hall 34 Bellamour House , 144 Dudley Castle 52 •Ditto ditto 52 Meaford Hall ..........•••• 38 Earl of Shrewsbury 28 TofaeePaq* Darlaston Hall 43 Spring Yale 44 Tixall Abbey 141 Armitage Park 22 Shugborough 12 ' Potteries ... 56 Croxden Abbey 86 Stone 36 Barlaston Hall 37 Asylum, Stafford **••• II Chillington Hall 112 Tutbury Castle 107 Westwood House 144 Etruria 59 Caverswell Castle 133 Dove Cliff 143 Rolleston Hall 143 Stourton Castle 145 Beamhurst Hall .... 153 I 1