L-J-s!.V/ >) Jy^^AXJL IStM-Lu (jM-d^MJ^, X4^ WORKS FOR TOURISTS IN IRELAND. VIII. REVELATIONS OF IRELAND. By D. Owen-Madden. Post «vo., 10s. Gd. Cloth. Contents.— 1. The old Munster Bar. 2. Irish Pulpit Eloquence— Dean Kirwan. 3. Romance in High Life. 4. O'Connelliana. 5. Power of the Priesthood— Endowment. G. Defence of Highfort. 7. The Penal Days. 8. Provincial Ambition— Gerald Callaghan. &. A Night of Horror. 10. Ter- rors of the Law. 11. A Scotchman in Munster. 12. The Irish Nobility— Imperial Nationality. IX. TRELAND SIXTY YEARS AGO. A new and cheap Edition. JL Price Is. Contents.— 1. State of Society and the City of Dublin— Liberty Roys and Ormond Boys— Colle- gians— Police— Bucks and Bullies— Challjers. 2. Duelling— Judicial and legal Duellists— Duelling Clubs and Rules— Hayes— Pat Power— Hryan Maguire— Trials for Duels. 3. Abduction — Abduction Clubs— the Misses Kennedy— Miss Knox. 4. Civic Processions— Riding the Franchises— the Liber- ties—the Lord Mayor's Penance. 5. Drunkenness— Notions of Conviviality. 6. Gambling — Lotte- ries. 7. Shoe-blacks— the Streets— Public Vehicles. 8. Slang Songs— Prison Usages— the Night before i^rry was stretched— the Kilmainham Minit— Executioners — Bull-baiting— Lord Altham's Bull— the Bush. 9. Rappareesand Robbers- Hedge Schools— Kreney— Northern Robbers— Shawn Crossach— William Crotty- Crotty's Lament— Felons' Bodies — Frederick Caulfield. 10. Tiger Roche. 1 1 . The Kingdom of Dalkey— The Dalkey Gazette— O'Meara. 1 2. the Visitation of 1 798 — United Irislimen — James Farrell — Expulsion of Power and Ardagh- Cause of the Visitation— its Proceedings —Lord Clare— Dr. Browne— Dr. Stokes— its Effects— Sketch of Farrell— of Corbett. 13. Lord Clare's Funeral. 14. The Gib's Parliamentary Privileges— Fire in the House of Commons. X. SPECIMENS OF THE EARLY NATIVE POETRY OF IRE- LAND, in English Metrical Translations, by Miss Brooke, Dr. Drummond, Samuel Ferguson, J. C. Mangan, T. Furlong, H. Grattan Curran, Edward Walsh, J. D' Alton, John Anster, LL. D., &c. &c. With historical and biographical Notices. By Henry R. Montgomery. 2s. 6d. Cloth, gilt edges. XI. IRISH POPULAR SONGS ; with English Metrical Versions, Eng- lish and Irish interpaged. By Edward Walsh. 2s. Gd. se-wed. XII. THE DEEP SEA AND COAST FISHERIES OF IRELAND, with Directions for a Fishing Company. By Wallop Bbabazon, Esq. Copiously illustrated, 8vo., hs. Cloth. XIIT. FLORA HIBERNICA ; comprising the Flowering Plants, Ferns, Charachi;\>, Musci, Hepaticifi, Lichenes, and Alga; of Ireland, arranged according to the Natural System. With a Synopsis of the Genera according to the Linnaean Sys- tem. By James Townsend Mackay, M. R. I. A., As.sociate of the Linneean Society, &c. &c. 8vo., 16«. Cloth. DUBLIN: JAMES M^GLASHAN, 21, D'OLIER-STREET. WM. S. ORR & CO., 147, STRAND, LONDON; AND LIVERPOOL. SOI,D BY AI.I. BOOKSELLER.S. /L^^^ -^— ^^ THE BEAUTIES OF THE BOYNE BLACKWATER. THE BEAUTIES OF THE BOYNE, AND ITS TRIBUTARY. THE BLACKWATER, WILLIAM R. WILDE. SECOND EDITION, ENLARGED. DUBLIN: JAMES M"^GLASHAN, 21 D'OLIER-STREET. WILLIAM S. ORR AND CO., LONDON AND LIVERPOOL. MDCCCL. DUBLIN: ^rintcB at t\)t aniberaitg ^rcss, BY M. H. GILL. TO THE EIGHT HONOURABLE THOMAS BABINGTON MACAU LAY, THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED, IN TESTIMONY OF THE ADMIRATION AND RESPECT OF THE AUTHOR. 20C1207 AMENDED PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. The materials for this book were collected during excursions, made from time to time, to the Boyne, for health, amusement, or instruction. With a desire to illustrate some of the scenery and antiquities of my native land, fragments of the original rough sketches were published in the Dublin University Magazine, among the series of " Irish Rivers," now appearing in that periodical. Although the space allotted to such subjects in a serial did not permit of lengthened descriptions of any of the places of note which fringe this river's banks, the interest which had been awakened by those rapid sketches of the Beauties of the Boyne was such as to induce the Publisher to request that I would again visit the great river of Meath, make further observations, collect additional information, include the Black- water, and publish the materials thus obtained, in the form of an illustrated Hand-book for these charming but hitherto neglected streams. It may be regarded as a boast, but it is nevertheless incon- trovertibly true, that the greatest amount of authentic Celtic history in the world, at present, is to be found in Ireland ; nay more, we believe it cannot be gainsaid that no country in Europe, except the early kingdoms of Greece and Rome, possesses so much ancient written history as Ireland. It Vi PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION. is, however, generally speaking, unknown ; heretofore it has neither been appreciated nor understood ; until very lately the great mass of Irish historic manuscripts was scattered and inac- cessible. Many of these have, within the last few years, been collected together, and several have been translated into English and published ; others are in course of publication, but in forma which (though no doubt the very best) are not within reach of the general reader, neither would they be always understood or valued by such. To popularize these — to render my country- men familiar with facts and names in Irish history — has been one of the objects I have had in view in the historic portion of this work. Materials for books of this description are now so abundant that the chief difficulty is in selection. Throughout the following pages I have alluded to the want of a correct Irish history, and the neglect of such histories of our country as we possess, I would here again (because I do not think it can be done too often) revert to this subject. TheBoard of National Education, — with whose scheme of instruction, so far as it goes, I agree, and many of whose books I very much admire, — while they teach the history of Kamtschatka, and the geography of the Andes, never once allude, in their system of education, to the national history of the people they are em- ployed to teach. Nor need this be wondered at, when I mention the fact that an eminent publisher of my acquaintance having some few years ago, in the issue of a popular, and, to my mind, a very unprejudiced abridgement of Irish history, written a circular to the different schoolmasters in Ireland, calling their attention to this little work, was answered by some of those who deigned to honour him with a reply, that the time devoted by their pupils to the study of history of any kind was barely sufficient for those of Greece, Rome, and England I How long will parents and guardians submit to this? That PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION. vii Irish history is looked upon as a fable by many ignorant persons is not surprising ; but that the ordinarily educated — and, above all, that the learned of any country — should be unacquainted with the materials of our Irish history, is a la- mentable fact, and shows either want of knowledge, or utter indifference to the subject. I was forcibly reminded of this a short time ago, in casting my eyes over that very beautiful book, Macaulay's " Lays of Ancient Eome," in the preface to which, when speaking of the early literature and metrical romances on which the history of most nations is founded, the great modern his- torian very justly says: "A man who can invent or embel- lish an interesting story, and put it into a form which others may easily retain in their recollection, will always be highly esteemed by a people eager for amusement and information, but destitute of libraries. Such is the origin of ballad poetry, — a species of composition which scarcely ever fails to spring up and flourish in every society, at a certain point in the progress towards refinement. Tacitus informs us that songs were the only memorials of the past which the ancient Ger- mans possessed." And so the author passes in review the early "poetic literature" and " ancient lays" of the various nations of the earth ; the Gauls, the primitive Teutonic and Celtic races of the European continent, the Danes and Anglo-Saxons, the Welsh and Scottish Highlanders, the Servians and Peru- vians, the people of Persia and Turkomania, the Sandwich Islanders, the Etruscans and Castilians, the ancient Greeks, and even the inhabitants of Central Africa, whose bards have sung, and whose traditions have perpetuated the story of their early history ; — all, except those of the neighbouring island, Ireland, find a place in the preface of the work we allude to. But worse than this, the last historian who has attempted VIU PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION. to compile and arrange the annals of our country, knew little or nothing of those rich sources of knowledge in the ancient Gaelic manuscripts from which alone our history can be ob- tained. Thus remarks Mr. O'Donovan, in his preface to The Battle of Magh-Kath, which, with the name of the monarch who fought it, is not even once alluded to in Moore's History of Ireland: " Mr. Moore is confessedly unacquainted with the Irish language; and the remains of our ancient literature were, therefore, of course inaccessible to him. That great ignorance of these unexplored sources of Irish history should be found in his pages is, therefore, not surprising ; but he ought to have been more conscious of his deficiencies in this respect than to have so boldly hazarded the unqualified assertion, that there exist in the Irish annals no materials for the civil history of the country." The scientific, as well as the literary and archaeological cha- racter of our country, has not fallen ofi" of late years; our Uni- versity and our schools of medicine have borne an honourable part in the advance of astronomy, mathematics, and medicine. Three new colleges have been lately established. The great- est telescope, the most scientific magnetic observatory, and the first atmospheric railway, were constructed in Ireland. A survey, the most accurate in its details, and the most ex- tensive in its objects, that any country in Europe has yet been submitted to, has just been completed; and the last enumera- tion of the people has been, with justice, pronounced by the London Statistical Society, " a model for a census." Unfor- tunately for the country, either from the indifference of minis- ters, the unjust economy which the English Exchequer has ever pursued towards Ireland, or from some mismanagement at home, perhaps from a little of each or all, — the memoirs of the Iiis.h Ordnance Survey have — I would hope only for the pre- PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION. IX sent — been abandoned. As, however, the materials which have been collected for them are the property of the country, and are a necessary portion of her history, they must some day, sooner or later, meet the light. Without those materials, and sources of information — which, I may remark, could not have been collected or procured by private means or indivi- dual exertion — the various works relating to ancient Irish history, which have of late years issued from the press, never would have appeared in their present extensive form. The Board of Works has of late done good service, parti- cularly to the inland navigation of the country ; and our agri- cultural and industrial resources have also, within the last few years, received an impulse which we would ardently antici- pate may be both permanent and extensive. In the last tenor fifteen years much has been done to develope the literary resources of this country. The Royal Irish Aca- demy, the old chartered patron of Irish literature and anti- quities, has awoke from the apathetic slumber in which it remained during the early part of this century, when papers and communications were admitted into its Transactions, of which, some were not founded on fact, and others, by the crude and fanciful theories of their authors, brought upon us the ridicule of other European nations; while, at the same time, it permitted some of our oldest and best records, and most valuable antiquities, to pass into another country. Of late, however, a zeal and an enthusiasm, and, we would hope, a nationality, unparalleled in the history of any other Irish institution, has been infused amongst its members and its Council, and it has amply redeemed its past indifference, by creating a museum of Celtic and early Christian antiqui- ties, unexampled in tJae British isles, and only suipassed (if it be surpassed) by that of Copenhagen, which is, how- X PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION. ever, inferior to our's in this respect, that the same historic references do not exist there with regard either to the Pagan or Christian antiquities, but particularly the latter, which are also less numerous and interesting. And although the Pagan antiquities at Copenhagen ar? much more numerous than our's, it does not appear that the types of form or structure are much more diversified than those which the museum of the Irish Academy possesses. Why has the catalogue of this, our national collection, been so long delayed ? Why is not each new specimen of interest figured in the Proceedings of the Academy, and its description thus widely distributed among the public ? We know that many valuable acquisitions have been gained by visiters calling accidentally at the museum ; many more would, we feel convinced, find their way into this collection, if some general and popular means existed of giving an account of those which are there already. The miserable pittance which is doled out to this noble institution by Parliament, may be used as a reason against this project; but, while we acknowledge the full effect of all this, we would suggest that wood-engraving, which is quite applicable to all purposes of antiquarian delineations and is now remarkably cheap, should be extensively employed; and as most of the antiquities have already been drawn at the expense of the Academy, even fifty pounds a year would do much towards illustrating them. By Dr. Petrie's great work upon the Ecclesiastical Architec- ture and Round Towers of Ireland, the Academy has widely extended its fame, and the first great impetus has been given to the true eclectic investigation of Irish history and anti- quities. But not by deep archajological research alone, but by his popular sketches in the Penny Journals, has Dr. Petrie generated a taste, and created a school of Irish Archjeology. PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION. XI He should have written this book ; his profound knowledge of Irish history and antiquities, — his intimate acquaintance with the subjects of which it treats, — his graphic powers of descrip- tion, and his surpassing abilities as an artist, all combine to ren- der him better suited for the task than any other man living. Because he has not done so I have ventured, sed longo intervallo, to describe the scenery presented along the Boyne and the Blackwater, to direct public attention to their antiquarian re- mains, and to popularize their annals and history. We have lately had a proof of the growing interest which is taken in the antiquarian departmentof our Academy, not only by our own, but by other nations. The Danish government sent over Mr. Worsaae, a gentleman of distinguished merit, great shrewdness of observation, and most captivating manners, to investigate and report upon our collection. With a becom- ing spirit of liberality, the Academy presented to the Royal Society of Northern Antiquaries, through the person to whom I have just alluded, a splendid series of drawings, illustrative of our finest antiquities, and also several specimens of the antiquities themselves, of which duplicates existed. In return, that learned body have lately presented a collection of Danish antiquities to the Academy. This is, I believe, the first in- stance of good feeling between the Irish and the Danes which our annalists have as yet been able to record. In the historic department, the Irish Archaeological Society has done more to elucidate the annals and records of our coun- try than had been effected during the previous century. Pri- vate individuals and enterprising publishers are likewise en- gaged in this good work. The publication of the Annals of the Four Masters by Messrs. Hodges and Smith is the greatest acquisition ever made to Irish history. The Celtic Society has also done the state some service, and promises well in this XU PKEFACK TO FIRST EDITION. department of research. We are, moreover, happy to find that this body does not consider itself a mere transcriber, transla- tor, and commentator on the written labours of the past; but has also constituted itself a conservator of those monuments and architectural remains which the Vandalism of modern commissioners would destroy. Some of these gentlemen, we regret to say, possess little knowledge of, and less taste and interest in, those relics that teach the antiquary, mark the historic era, or adorn the landscapes of our native land. The nonsensical fancies of Vallancey and his school of ima- ginary antiquaries have long since been dispelled by the la- bours of Petrie, O' Donovan, Hardiman, Todd, Eugene Curry, Reeves, Graves, and other modern investigators. Strangers even who lately visited our soil have become in- fected by the general feeling of enthusiasm which has per- vaded all classes and parties and some of them have ably and generously devoted the pages of their periodicals to the elu- cidation of Irish history and antiquities.* Her Majesty Queen Victoria, with her illustrious consort, has just visited this portion of her dominions, and by their coming amongst us, have done more to put down disaffection, and elicit the loyal feelings and affections of the Irish people, than armies thousands strong, fierce general ofHcers, trading politicians, newspaper writers, and the suspension of the Habeas Corpus Act, &c. &c. Let us hope that her welcome visit will be soon repeated. I have now but to express my obligations to those kind Iriends who have assisted me in the compilation of the historic and antiquarian portion of this woi'k. First, to my excel- lent friend, .John O'Donovan, — whose labours in the cause of * Sw the Ilistorit-al Taliloaux, in iiuiiibers KJO and 1G2 of Chambers's EiUiibiiifrh Jfiiinial for 1S47. PHEFACE TO FIRST EDITION. XUl Irish Archa?ology are already so well known to the learned in Great Britain, and which are so frequently referred to in this book, that it seems scarcely necessary to allude to them here ; — who has assisted me largely, and devoted much time and at- tention in the revision of proofs, and in pointing ou,t the sources from which I might gain illustrative materials. I know no man possessing the same amount of knowledge, gleaned with the same labour and research, who is more liberal of it than Mr. O'Donovan ; and to this every one who has been engaged, either in strict archaeological research, or, like myself, in popularizing our history, must bear testimony. The Very Reverend Richard Butler, Dean of Clonmacnoise, has also placed me, as regards this work, under many obliga- tions. His long residence at Trim, of which he has become the historian, and his intimate acquaintance with the ancient history of the county of Meath, render him better fitted for the task of a critic upon a book treating of the Boyne, than any other living antiquary ; and in the same generous manner as Mr. O'Donovan, he has, as he always does, assisted those who require the aid of his matured judgment and extensive read- ing. I have to express my obligations to Mr. George Smith, the enterprising publisher of so many works connected with the history of Ireland, for permission to examine and extract from the early portion of that part of the Annals of the Four Masters, now in course of translation by Mr. O'Donovan. With the Editor's permission, he placed the unpublished sheets of that great work at my disposal. Indeed, without the assistance of so many generous as well as learned friends, I could not have produced this work in its present form. I do not profess to be an antiquary or an his- torian ; other avocations of a professional nature occupy more XIV PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION. of my time than the acquirement of strict and exact archaeo- logical knowledge would permit; but I have endeavoured, with the assistance of my friends, and by means of such sources of information as were readily at hand, while I popularized our history and sketched our scenery (chiefly as a source of health- ful relaxation from more fatiguing pursuits) to present nothing to the reader that was not strictly true. Had more time been devoted to the subject, this might, perhaps, have been made a better book, but we doubt whether it would be more suited to the purpose for which it is intended. With the exception of the illustration upon the first page, and the woodcut at page 67, which were drawn by Mr. Grey, and the drawings by Mr. Connolly, engraved at pages 38, 40, and 195, all the illustrations of this work have been sketched, and afterwards drawn on wood by Mr. Wakeman, who is al- ready so favourably known both as an artist and an antiquary, by his useful Handbook of Irish Antiqiiities, and who com- bines great artistic skill with a peculiar knowledge of the sa- lient points of the antiquities or ruins he may be engaged in illustrating. I am likewise indebted to Mr. Wakeman for much local information, which his residence on the banks of the Boyne for the last two years enabled him to collect. Mr Hanlon, the wood-engraver, has also borne no inconsi- derable part in the illustrations of the Beauties of the Boyne. And last, though not least, whatever pleasure or profit the fireside reader or the tourist may derive from the perusal of this little book, is chiefly due to the enterprise of its spirited publisher, Mr. M'^Glashan. 21, WeSTLA2s1)-R0W, August 1849. PREFACE THE SECOND EDITION To this Second Edition of the Beauties of the Boyne and Blackwater I have added a full and succinct account of the battle fought at Oldbridge, in 1690, generally known as " The Battle of the Boyne;" and have, I think, given a clearer and fairer account of that memorable transaction, which is so inti- mately connected with the history of Europe at the time, than has heretofore appeared. I have also, since the issue of the former edition, visited and carefully examined the ruins of the celebrated monastic establishments at Mellifont andMonas- terboice; I have had several accurate sketches made of them, and I have also added full letter-press descriptions of these places. The Index has also been made much more copious. I have considerably increased the Itinerary, and given several new routes, suited to tourists limited for time. These addi- tions, together with some minor alterations throughout the work, have considerably increased its pages, and it likewise contains eleven new illustrations, making in all eighty-four woodcuts. Dublin, 21, Westland-Row, August, 1850. CONTENTS. Page. IriNEUARY, xxi CHAPTER I. THE river's source AND HISTORY. Introduction — The Beauties of the Boyne; its Scenery and Historic Inte- rest ; its Archseological Remains — Description of the ancient Kingdom of Meath ; its History and Topography — Tlie Plains of Breghia — The English Conquest — Dearvorgail, the Helen of the Irish Iliad — The Pale — Geographical Description of the River — The Source, Origin, and Derivation of the Boyne — Trinity Well ; its Legends and Antiquities — The Story of Boan and Dabella, 1 CHAPTER II. FROM CARBURY TO CLONARD. Carbury ; its ancient History, Hill, and Castle — Genealogy of the Duke of Wellington — The Boyne's Progress through the King's County — Edenderrj' — Ruins of Monasteroris — The Berminghams — Alteration of English into Irish Names — Return to Kildaro — Kinnafad Castle — A Battle-field ; the Men who fought there, and their Weapons — Grange —The Hill of Carrick; its Church, Well, and Castle— View of the Plains of Leinster — Toberaulin — Lady Well— Irish Holy Wells — Bal- ly bogan; its Church and Priory, 27 CHAPTER IIL CLONARD, AND THE BOYNE TO TRIM. Clonavd — Description of C«sar Otway— The Battle of 1798— Ancient Seat of Learning — History of St. Finian— The Abbey, Jlonastery, and b XVIU CONTENTS. Page. Koiiiul Tower — Disasters ami Desecrations, ancient and modern — An- tique Font and Lavatory — Recovery of an Ecclesiastical Stoup — The Pagan Remains at Clonard — The ISIoat and Fort ; Speculations on their Origin and Uses— The Battle-field of Rathcore— The Battle of Bolg- Boinne — Ticroghan — Donore Cattle — The Boyne to Trim — Trimbles- town, 55 CHAPTER IV. TRIM. Trim ; First Impressions ; Historj', ancient and modern ; Accommodation ; Origin and Foundation — St. Mary's Abbey and Yellow Tower — Geof- frey De Geneville— Military Buildings— The Early Irish Castles— The Saxon, who? — Death of Hugh De Lacy — The present Castle of Trim; its Chapel and IMint — Talbot's Castle — The early Residence of the Duke of Wellington — Laracor, Swift, and Stella— Newtown ; its Abbey, Tombs, and Ruins — Monastic Castle and Priory of St. John, ... 79 CHAPTER V. FROM TRIM TO NAVAN. Scurlogstown ; its Tumulus, Church, and Castle — Trubly — Bective Ab- bey — Interment of Hugh De Lacy — Clady ; its Subterranean Cham- bers, Church, and ancient Foot-Bridge — The House of Cletty — Ri- verstown Castle — Tara ; its Histoiy and Associations ; its Topography —Raths — The Lia-Fail— Skrecn— Hymn of St. Patrick— Ardsallagh — St. Bridget's Well — Kilcam Font — Athlumney Castle ; its last Oc- cupant — Navan; recent Discoveries there, 103 CHAPTER VI. THE BLACK WATER. General View of the Blackwater of Meath ; Origin of its Name — St. Pa- trick's Curse — Tlie River's Source at Lough Ramor — Virginia — St. Kieran's Well, Church, and Crosses — Square Forts — Hill of Lloyd — Kells ; its Early History — House of St. Columbkill — Round Tower — The Cross — Annals of Kells — Headford — Tailtean, one of the ancient Seats of Monarchy ; its early History ; its Games, Battles, Fairs, and Marriages— The present Appearance of Teltowni; its Hill, Raths, and CONTENTS. XIX Page. Legends — St. Patrick and King Loegliaire — Donaghpatrick ; its His- tory ; tlie Moat and Cliurchyard — The Cluirch and Castle of Liscartou — Ratbaldrou; its Castle — Monumental Cross of Nevinstown, . . 136 CHAPTER Vir. TilE BOYNE FROM NAVAN TO SLANE. Donaghmore Round Tower — Blackcastle — Babes' Bridge — Ardmulcban — Dunmoe — Stackallan Bridge — Castle Dexter — Beauparc — Fennor — Slane Castle — The Hermitage of St. Ere— View from the Hill of Slane — The arrival of St. Patrick — Name and Origin of Slane — Ferta- Fear-Feig — The Monastic and Ecclesiastical Ruins — An ancient Tomb, 159 CHAPTER VIII, THE ROYAL CEMETERY OF BRUGII-NA-BOINNE. The Senchas-na- Relic — Bragh-na-B(jinne— The Interment of King Cor- mac — Ros-na-Righ — Knowth — The Tumulus of New Grange; its En- trance, Passage, and Chamber — Crypts in the Interior — Antique Carvings — Ancient History of this Mound — Dowtli — Recent Exami- nation of its Interior — Description of its Chambers and Passages — Rossan — Cloghlea — Netterville, 184 CHAPTER IX. THE ETHNOLOGY OF THE ANCIENT IRISH. Modes and Means of stud3'ing Ethnology — Who are the Irish ? — Historic References — What Remains of the original Stock exist — The Celts — The Firbolgs — The Tuatha De Danaan — Early Irish Forms of Burial — Tumuli, and their Contents — Cromlechs — Kistvaens^ — Sepulchral Urns — Incineration — Scandinavian Researches— Crania of the ancient Irish — Battle-fields — Advice to Tomb-Openers, 212 CHAPTER X. THE BATTLE-FIELD OF OLDBRIDGE DULEEK. The Boyne in Louth— The Campaign of 1690 — Description of the Battle- field of Oldbridge— Position of the Irish Army— The Hill of Donore — Position of the English Armj- — The King's Glen— Plan of the Battle XX CONTENTS. Page. of the First of July— The Shot at King WilHam— The Battle of Rosa- naree — Turning of the left Wing of the Irish Army at Slane — rosition of James — The Passage of the Boyne at Oldbridge — Death of Schom- berg — The Battle — The Fight upon Donore — The Retreat to Duleek — Colonel Bellingham's Journal — State of Dublin — The Rout — What Effects have followed — New Ballad of the Boyne Water — Tlie Anti- quities of Duleek — First Irish Daimliag — St. Kienan — The Priory Church; its Tombs and Cross — St. Mary's Abbey, 241 CHAPTER XI. DROGHEDA AND ITS ENVIRONS. Mellifont ; its general Appearance — Gate and Parochial Chapel — His- tory — The early Irish Church — St. Malachy — Donough O'Carroll; his Foundation of the Monastery — The Consecration of the Abbey — Der- vorgail's connexion with Mellifont ; its Annals — St. Bernard's Chapel — The Baptistry — Monasterboice ; its Round Tower, Churches, and Sculptured Crosses — Termonfechen ; its Ruins — Drogheda ; its early History ; Sieges ; Antiquities ; Walls — St. Laurence's and the West Gate — St. Mary's Church — Tlie Magdalen Steeple — St. Peter's — The Mouth of the Boyne — Colpe — The Maiden Tower, 279 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Page. 1. Bird's-eye View of the River Boyne, 1 2. Carbury Castle, 27 3. The Ruins of Monasteroris, 35 4. Kinnafad Castle 37 6. Antiquities found in the Boyne, at the Pass of Kinnafad, .... 38 6. Skulls found in the same Locality, 40 7. The Church and Castle of Carrick-Oris, 43 8. Ballj-bogan Priory Church, 51 9. The ancient Font of Clonard, 64 10. Antique Vessel found at Clonard, 67 11. The Mound of Clonard, 68 12. The Castle of Donore, 77 13. The Yellow Steeple and Sheep-Gate of Trim, 84 14. The Castle of Trim, 94 15. Monastic Ruins at Newtown Trim, 9D 16. The Dillon Monument at Xewtown, 100 17. Scurlogstowu Castle, 104 18. Bective Abbey, 108 19. The Cloisters at Bective, Ill 20. The ancient Bridge and Church of Clady, 113 21. The Lia Fail, or Stone of Destiny at Tara, 124 22. Cannistown Church — Choir Arch, 129 23. Ancient Font at Kilcarn, 130 24. Sculptures on Ivilcarn Font, 131 25. Ditto, ditto, ib. 26. Athlumney Castle, 132 XXU LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Pack. 27. St. Kieruan's Cross at Castle Kiernan, 13'J 28. St. Kiernan's Well and Tree, Ul 29. St. Columbkill's House at Kells, 144 30. Window in ditto, 145 31. The Eouud Tower of Kells, 14G 32. The Great Cross of Kells, 148 33. Liscarton Castle, 156 34. Donaghmore Church and Tower, IGO 35. Sculpture over Door of Donaghmore Round Tower, 1C2 36. Sculptured Stone at Ardmulchan Church, 165 37. Dunnioe Castle, with the Boyne and Mill, &c., 167 38. Castle Dexter, 173 39. Slane Castle, 174 40. The Hermitage of St. Ere, at Slane, 175 41. Remains of sculptured Tomb, at ditto, ib. 42. The Ecclesiastical Ruins at Slane, 178 43. Ancient gable-shaped Tomb at Slane, 182 44. The Mound of New Grange, 189 45. Pillar-stones in the Circle of New Grange, 190 46. The Entrance of New Grange, with its sculptured Stones, .... 192 47. Sculptured Stone at Mouth of New Grange Cave, 193 48. One of the upright Grooved Stones in the Passage of New Grange, 194 49. The eastern Recess in the Chamber of New Grange 195 50. Illustrations of the spiral Carvings at ditto, 197 51. . the lozenge-shaped Carvings at ditto, 198 52 the oval and semicircular Carvings at ditto, ... ib. 53, the zig-zag Carvings at ditto, 199 54. the supposed Writing at ditto, ib. 55. the Fern-shaped Carving at ditto, 200 56. The double Basin, or shallow Stone Sarcophagus at ditto, .... 201 57. The single Basin in the Western Crypt at ditto, ib. 58. The Mound of Dowth prior to the recent E.xcavations at ditto, . . 204 59. The Entrance to the Passage at Dowth, 206 GO. Carvings on the Stones at ditto, 207 61. One of the Pillar-Stones at Brugh-na-Boinne, 210 62. Remains of a Stone Circle at Cloghlea, 211 63. Globular Scandinavian Skull, 226 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XXIU Page. 64. Elongated Scandinavian skull, 227 65. Skull of the long-headed Irish Race, 229 66. Skull of the round-headed Irish Eace, 232 67. Skull of St. Donatus, 236 68. The Obelisk on the Battle-field of the Boyne, 241 69. Duleek, ruins of the Priory Church, 276 70. MelUfont, general view of, 281 71. St. Bernard's Chapel, 288 72. the Baptistry, ditto, 290 73. General View of Monasterboice, 291 74. Great Cross at ditto, 298 75. Ornament beneath the Arm of the Great Cross at ditto, 299 76. Cross of Muiredach at ditto, 300 77. Portion of the Sculpture upon the smaller Cross at ditto, .... 802 78. Sculpture on the second Compartment of ditto, 303 79. Boss of Cross at ditto, 304 80. St. La^NTence's Gate, Drogheda, 306 81. The West Gate, ditto, 307 32. Ruins of St. Mary's Church, ditto, 308 83. The Magdaleen Steple, ditto, 309 84. The Maiden Tower and Finger, 310 TO THE BINDER. 85. Plan of the Battle of the Boyne, To face page 248 86. Map of the Boyne and Blackwater, At the end. ITINERARY. The following directions with respect to the best mode of seeing the beauties of the Blackwater and Boyne will be found useful to the tourist. The Eiver Boyne may be visited, and its various objects of interest examined, comfortably, in tliree days. The Blackwater will require a fourth ; and a distinct route from Navan to Virginia, along its banks, is given at p. xxiii. of this Itine- rary. As railways now approach the river at three different points, — at Enfield, Navan, and Drogheda, — tourists can return to Dublin, if they wish, each night, or, proceeding continuously down the river, they can divide the journey into three portions, sleeping the first night at Trim, the second at Slane, and the third at Dublin, as neither Navan nor Drogheda as j'et present the very best accommodation. The most ready mode of access to the Boyne's source, at Carbery, in the county of Kildare, is to proceed from the Broadstone, Dublin, in one of the early morning trains which starts by the Midland Great Western Eailway, to Enfield, which can be reached in about an hour and a half. Hei-e outside jaunting-cars can be hired at the rate of sixpence per mile for two persons, or one can be hired for the day, or by the job. From seven shillings and six- pence to ten shillings per day, with a douceur to the driver, will generally satisfy, but in eveiy instance a special bargain should be made with the car- man before starting. The tourist should first proceed to Carbery, distant about six miles, where the hill and Castle of Carbery should be visited, and afterwards the source of the Boj^ne, at Trinity Well, in the adjoining demesne of Newbery. About a mile and a half from Enfield, the Edenderry road through Carbery crosses the Blackwater rivulet, one of the tributaries of the Boyne ; then the neat little village of Johnstown, and between that and Carbery we pass My- lerstown church and castle, about a mile to the right of the road. This latter c XXVI ITINERARY. may be visited by those who have time to spare, and who had left Dublin by the early morning train. From Carbery to Edenderry is not quite four English miles. Except the old castle, which is difficult of access, there is very little to delay the tourist in this town. Two roads — one direct to the Hill of Carrick, the other, the most circui- tous, by Monasteroris, Kinnafad, and Grange — lead downward, to Ballybo- gan. The former is the shorter, the latter by far the most interestmg. From Edenderry to Monasteroris is not quite two miles ; from thence to Kinnafad a mile, and by the Castle of Grange to the Hill of Carrick two and a half miles more. The next point of interest is Ballybogan, four miles distant from Car- rick, and eight from Edenderry. Here two roads, one on each side of tlie Boyne, lead to Clonard. If the tourist intends to return to Dublin the same night, the northern road upon the left bank of the river, by which the ruins of Ticroghan castle and chapel may be visited, will be found not only the most interesting, but the shortest. From Ballybogan Bridge to Clonard is two miles. Having visited the moat and the site of the ecclesiastical ruins adjoin- ing, the tourist can either continue on to Trim, which is about twelve English* miles distant, by crossing to the right bank of the river, at the Boyne Aque- duct, or he can return by the Great Western road, over Leinster Bridge, to the railwaj' station at Moyvalley, which is about four miles distant ; and, taking the evening up-train from IMullingar, return to Dublin the same night. If the latter course is pursued, the tourist should proceed by railway to Moyvalley the second day ; then visit Clonard ; and thence proceed down the river by Trim to Navan, where a branch of the Drogheda railway will take him up to Dublin in something more than two hours. Trim, and the Boyne from thence to Navan, one of the most interesting portions of the excursion, can be visited in a day, by taking a car from En- field either direct to Trim, or by Dangan and Laracor : and proceeding from Trim, by Newtown and Scurlogstown, to Bective. Here we have again to make choice of roads ; on the one side we have Clady, and on the other Assey Riverstowii, Bellinter, and Tara. To follow the route in detail from Trim dowuAvard, the most pleasing points of view will be gained by proceeding on the right bank of the river, then crossing over to visit the ruins of Newtown, about a mile distant, letuming to the right bank, and proceeding to Scurlogstown, Trubly, and the Bridge of * In this neighbourhood, and about Navan, distances arc still counted in Irish miles. ITINERARY. XXVI I Bectivo, distant from Trim four miles and a half, and from Navan three and a half miles. Here we cross to the left bank, and having seen the Abbey, proceed upon the same side to visit Clady, which is not a mile distant, and returning by the same route to Bective Bridge, follow the road upon the right bank to Rivei'stown Castle, and thence ascend the hill of Tara, which being seen, it will be found most advisable to proceed to the bridge of Bellinter, and cross over to the left bank, and then, passing through the demesne of Ardsalla, visit Cannistown. We next cross the Boyne at Athcarne Bridge, in order to see the font at Johnstown, described at page 130, about half a mile distant. It is then optional to proceed to Navan by the road upon the right bank of the river, by which one of the best views of Athlumney Castle can be gained, or to return again to Athcarne Bridge. At Navan the tourist will decide whether he visits the Blackwater then, or makes a separate excursion to it afterwards. Cars can be hired to proceed by Kells to Virginia. The tourist will find it best in so doing to proceed up the river by Liscarton Castle, upon the left bank, to Kells, where the coach-road crosses to the right bank, and, having visited St. Kieran's church and well at Castle- kieran, the most distant point of interest upon the Blackwater, and to return by Teltown, Donaghpatrick, and Rathaldron, to Navan, by the left or northern road. Coaches, however, proceed daily to Kells and Virginia, at both of which places cars can be procured to return to Navan. The examination of the Blackwater, by any of these means, will occupy an entire day. Tourists can leave Dublin by one of the early trains and go by Drogheda to Navan, from whence public conveyances proceed by Kells to Virginia ; or cars can be hired at either of these places to visit the Blackwater, and return in time to catch the up-trains from Navan to Dublin. From Navan to Kells is nine English miles ; from Kells to Castlekeiran three ; and to Virginia from the latter place nine miles. From Navan to Slane we have again a choice of roads : the most advisable plan will, however, be found to visit Donaghmore church and round tower, which is about a mile from Navan, on the left bank of the river, and then, returning to Navan, either procure a boat to proceed to Slane, or walk along the rampart or track-way of the canal. If neither of these two latter modes are feasible, Slane, being distant from Navan about six Irish miles, may be reached by either the eastern or western road ; upon the former we have Anl- mulchan and Beauparc, and upon the latter, Donaghmore, Dunmoe, Stackallan, Baroustown, and Slane demesne. A narrow by-road, about three-quarters of XXviii ITINERARY. a mile long, leads down from the main road to Dunmoe. Boats, however, can generally be procured by timely notice, and they can be taken with facility as far as New Grange, where cars should be sent from Slane or Drogheda to take tourists on to the railway stations at either of these places. Slane hotel Mall be found a very desirable residence for those who can spend a few days in visiting the charming sceneiy of this part of the Boyne, and excursions may be made from it to Navan, Tara, Trim, and the places inter- mediate, as well as to Kells, Duleek, the mounds of New Grange and Dowth, the field of the Battle of the BojTie, Mellifont, and Monasterboice. From Slane to Drogheda, a distance of seven miles, the road upon the left bank of the river presents most objects of interest. The tourist should visit in succession, Knowth, New Grange, and Dowth, which can be reached by a by-i'oad branching off near the first of these monuments. Havmg seen these antiquities and those in Netterville Park adjoining, we proceed by the little bridge over the Mattock river, and join the Slane road again near the ford of Oldbridge. Having examined the battle-field, should time permit, or that the tourist had slept at Slane upon the previous night, a detour may be made from Oldbridge, by the road leading up through King William's Glen to Mel- lifont, about one and a half mile distant ; from thence to Slonasterboice three, and having seen the latter, one can easily get upon the great northern road, and reach Drogheda, which is distant from Monasterboice four miles, time enough to get to town by the last train. Cars may be obtained at the Drogheda terminus to visit any of the places in the vicinity, as Donore, Mornington, Maiden Tower, Termonfechen, and Du- leek ; but there will soon be a station near where the railway passes the latter. To those interested in antiquarian researches the following route will form a pleasant day's excursion. Pack up a limcheon. Start for Drogheda by the mail train at 10 o'clock, p. m. ; this reaches its destination at ten minutes past 1 1 o'clock. Hire a car for the day ; cost about seven or eight shilUngs, in- cluding driver. Proceed along the river to the Obelisk at Oldbridge, where the scene of the battle of 1690 and the " Boyne Water" may be examined, par- ticularly from the rising groimd adjoining the corner of Townley Hall de- mesne. Drive on as far as the road leading to Dowth, and then return. Pass up King William's Glen, and proceed by Tullyallen to Mellifont, which one ought to reach by 2 o'clock. Having seen that ancient place, drive by the old road across the country to Monasterboice, and return to Drogheda by 5 or 6 o'clock, and while tea is preparing at the hotel or the station house, exa- ITINERARY. XXix mine some of the riiins in Drogheda described at pages 306 to 309. The train to DubHn starts at 8 o'clock. We would ad\nse those desirous of making a careful examination of the battle-field, and going over the ground contested on the 1st of July, 1690, to go up the river to Oldbridge by boat from Drogheda, which can be easily effected if the tide is in, or to have a boat in waiting there ; and, ha\'ing ex- amined the site of the English position on the south side of the Boyne, to cross over opposite the Obelisk, where a car from Drogheda should be in readiness. Then proceed up the hill, through the battle-field, to Donore, or, as the people here call it, " Done Over" from the ruined church of which the position of the Irish army can be best seen, and a tolerably accurate idea formed of the skir- mishing ground near Rosnaree. From Donore cross down to Duleek by the hill to Cruzrath. Duleek is well worthy of a couple of hours' examination. Next proceed up the hill to Bellewstown, and from this by the Naul to Balbriggan, to meet one of the evening trains to Dublin. To devote a day to the examination of the great cemetery of Brugh-na- Boinne, the tourist should proceed by rail to Slane, hire a car there, and visit in succession Knowth, New Grange, Dowth, and Netterville, and then, cross- ing over to Jlonknewtown, get back to Drogheda in time for the evening train. Fraser's admirable "Hand-Book for Travellers in Ireland," and the Monthly Time Bills of the railways, will be found of great service. THE BOYNE. CHAPTER 1. THE RIVER'S SOURCE AND HISTORY. INTBODDCTION. — ^THE BEAUTIES OF THE BOTNE ; ITS SCENERY AND HISTORIC INTEREST; ITS ARCHjBOLORICAL REMAINS. —DESCRIPTION OF THE ANCIENT KINGDOM OF MEATH ; ITS HISTORY AND TOPOOKAPHY. — THE PLAINS ,,;'^,., OF BREOHIA. — THE ENGLISH CONQUEST.— /■ Ml'S