A LADY TEADEE TEANSVAAL. MRS. HECKFORD. Hontfon : SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTOtf, CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET. 1882. [All rigMs reserved.'} LONDON : PBINTED BY GILBEBT AND BIVINaTON, LIMITED, ST. JOHN'S SQTJABE. PKEFACE. TO THE READER. THE following narrative is a faithful account of my personal experience. The only liberty that I have taken with facts consists of the substitution of fictitious for the real names of persons and farms. These changes have been made for obvious reasons. SAEAH HECKFORD. 140421 A LADY TEADEE IN THE TEANSVAAL, CHAPTER I. ON a fine breezy morning, early in December, 1878, a number of passengers, and volunteers for the Zulu war, crowded the deck of one of the Union Company's steam- ships, then lying off the Port of D'Urban, or Port Natal. She had been for some days unable to land her passengers owing to the roughness of the "bar," that terrible difficulty presented by all south-east African seaports ; but earlj on this particular morning the joyful intelligence that the tug was coming was made known, and the excitement, was great in consequence. The volunteers had all come on board at East London, a very sparely populated and commonplace-looking sea- side village on the African coast. They were more or less prepared for what lay before them, for they knew what life in South Africa is; but to the majority of the passengers the low-lying, jungly-looking shore on which the breakers were beating was like the drop-scene of an unknown opera. "What lay behind it was a mystery B 2 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. to all those who were then for the first time lauding in South Africa at least one half of the number assembled on deck. Most of them, no doubt, felt this ; but there was one, at least, who did not. This was a young gentle- man who went by the name of " Dick." He was a strap- ping youngster of about eighteen, who, I 'am inclined to think, had been shipped to Africa because nothing could be done with him at home. The new life before him presented no difficulties to his mind ; he knew exactly how he was going to manage. He would buy a horse at D'Urban, put a few things in his saddle-bags, strap his tent on his horse's crupper, and ride to Rustemberg (his destination) with a Kaffir for his guide. There he would rapidly make his fortune, principally by trading amongst the Kaffirs, to which end he had, before leaving England, provided himself with a stock of little machines, which (if my memory serves me rightly) are labelled in shop- windows "A cup of tea in five minutes." This invention consists of a piece of sponge covered with wire gauze and encased in a metal cover, so that the apparatus can be carried in the pocket until it is required to perform the part of a spirit-lamp. The contrivance is more complicated than I describe, and decidedly ingenious. Dick had a store of these things in perfect order, and was confident of doing a roaring trade in them amongst the Kaffirs. Dick was now, however, troubled with a difficulty ; it was this : he had two dogs, one an English bull-terrier it had cost him 5Z. to bring the animal from England the other a Kaffir mongrel, for which he had paid a sovereign to the owner, who had come on board at Cape Town. The owner was a Kaffir, and had brought his dog on board without asking any questions, and probably would have A Lady Trader in the Transvaal, 3 taken him off without any being asked of him ; but when Dick bought the dog, the captain and chief officer declared that he must pay the full fare for the animal, and on his indignant refusal, threatened to seize his saddle. Poor Dick was in an agony, honestly believing they meant what they said, and being much troubled in his mind as to how his new acquisition, a very large and lively dog, was to be got into the tug. The method of conveying the passengers from the steamship to the tug was certainly enough to alarm the poor mongrel, and Dick was justified in think- ing it likely that he would object to it. A strongly-made basket, large enough to hold three or four persons crouch- ing down, was being periodically hauled up to the side and swung over to the deck of the ship, filled with passengers, and then lowered away, until, amidst much laughter and shouting, its unlucky occupants were let bump down on the deck of the little tug that was bobbing about by the side of her big sister, when they were immediately and very unceremoniously tumbled out if they were men. Women and children were somewhat more gently treated. It certainly struck nie that it would be very easy to break one's legs in the operation, and when my turn came I was very glad to find myself safely on board the little vessel. She was a funny-looking little craft, made expressly for crossing the disagreeable bar, and we were all cautioned to sit fast and wedge ourselves in well, or we might be swept overboard as we passed it. I expected a frightful drenching at least, but nothing at all happened ; it was the old story of the mountain and the mouse, and as such, it formed a fitting prelude to life in South Africa, where, so far as my experience goes, everything is ex- aggerated dangers, difficulties, beauties, and advantages. B 2 4 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. I believe that D' Urban is a pretty town, but it did not look pretty to me, for I was in a bad temper. I had arranged to travel with a party who were going up country to speculate, thinking that it might be difficult for a lady alone, unless blessed with large means, to travel in a country of which the languages and customs were unknown to her. It is, I think, rather trying for any one accustomed to manage for himself to submit to be managed for, unless the management be very good, which in this case it was not. I found it decidedly tried me, and when it came on to rain, and (there being a strike of the Kaffir porters on that day) my companions piled all the luggage in the middle of a tramway, seemingly un- conscious of there being any unadvisability in its being so disposed of, I felt very uncharitable towards them. The result of this disposition of our joint property was, that after a while a number of Kaffirs, with that beautiful dis- regard of consequences which is one of the pleasing characteristics of the race, sent a line of empty railway trucks right into it. The acrobatic and athletic efforts then made to rescue individual boxes dear to the owners' hearts, were amusing to behold ; but it would have been a great relief to one's feelings to have been able to vent one's wrath, if only in words, on those unpleasant Kaffirs, who looked on grinning ; but it was no use abusing them, for they didn't understand English, and none of us spoke Zulu or any other Kaffir language. At last I got into an omnibus which runs between the Port and the village of D'Urban, taking " Jimmy " with me. And here, as I shall have occasion to mention Jimmy again, let me introduce him. Jimmy was a boy of nearly sixteen, whom I had known A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 5 from the time lie was very small. He belonged to the party with whom I had arranged to travel, and was the only member of it with whom I had any previous acquaintance when I went on board the Union Company's ship at Southampton. He was fresh from home and school, and not at all accustomed to roughing it, hence he was permitted to be a good deal with me, and was allowed certain little privileges not accorded to the men of the party, or even to another youngster not much older than Jimmy, but about twice his size and strength. The omnibus set us down at the best hotel in D'Urban; but that does not say very much. The village consisted of a line of straggling cottages or small houses, some of them with things in the window for sale, a railway-station, and a rather nice-looking building where the post-office was. I say consisted, for it may be much changed since then. The hotel was a cottage standing in a garden. There was a sitting-room with a piano in it, and a table d'hote in an adjoining but separate room; but there were none of the other arrangements which one connects in one's mind with an hotel. The idea it gave me was that a small farmhouse had been suddenly called upon to accommodate several people, and that the owner was doing his best. On the whole, D'Urban did not strike me as a singularly delectable spot, and I was not sorry to leave it. We departed by the train, which took us to Pine Town, a pretty little place, in the middle of scenery that reminded me of an Indian jungle. Here we got into an omnibus. We were packed very tight, and had little parcels of various sorts crammed into every available spot. The road was rough, and the horses went at a rattling rate. I suppose it was what some of 6 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. the people said, "miserable;" but I rather enjoyed it, for the scenery was fine. We stopped for dinner sit a farmhouse, and got into Pieter-Maritzburg at sunset. The town looked very pretty with the evening light on it, lying in the middle of a circle of hills ; but it is not really a very pretty place, although I believe its inhabitants think it so. Pieter-Maritzburg in reality is, or was when I saw it, only a large village. Before I proceed, I must warn my readers, that although I shall have to tell them of rocks and valleys and wooded ravines, &c., they must not picture to them- selves anything analogous to what they may have seen in Switzerland or Italy. There are such things in this part of the world, but they are commonplace. It is neces- sary to come here to understand what a "commonplace " wooded ravine means, but once here one understands it perfectly. I have often tried to make out in what this want of beauty, where there ought to be beauty, consisted, and I think that to a considerable extent it is caused by a want of atmosphere, to use a phrase common to artists. In this part of the world the sun rises, when the sky is cloudless, in a bright yellow halo. It is yellow not the glorious gold of the Egyptian or Indian sunrise and the light it throws on all around is simply a bright yellow light. There are no delicately shaded tints, as it fades into shadow, or plays over an uneven surface. The artist who would portray it need have but few colours in his paint-box. If the sky be cloudy, he need only as a rule have plenty of grey, and enough red and yellow for a streak or two. It is very seldom one sees the beautiful rose-flecked sky which made the fanciful Greeks gift Aurora with rosy-tipped fingers. And then, where will A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 7 a dweller here find the magnificent colouring of an Indian, or the ethereal blush of an Italian, sunset? The finest he will ever see here will not be equal to many that he will have seen in England. The colouring of the scenery is monotonous. The grass when it is not yellow is a very vivid green; the trees have not much variety of hue or form ; and the sky is very blue a cobalt blue, deepening into indigo as it nears the horizon, but without a trace of the rose- pink which, when we first learn to put a brush on paper, we are so strenuously enjoined never to omit in an hori- zon. Even the moonlight is not so ethereal as in other countries, although it is often very bright. So much for the scenery. Now, as to the life here, I can only compare it to a picture in which there is no central point for the eye to rest on, in which everything is equally prominent. It is moral atmosphere which is wanting, I am inclined to think. Life here is a jumble, to use an inelegant but expressive word. To me, and to many I fancy, there is much in the life which is attractive. It is, I believe, a fact, that people who have been here for some time and have longed to return to Europe, having done so, have come back to finish their days in Africa. But I doubt whether more than two or three of those persons even, could have told the characteristic charm which thus recalled them from their old homes. 8 A Lady Trader in tJie Transvaal. CHAPTER II. JIMMY and I left Pieter-Maritzburg on a fine afternoon, having been there about a week the rest of the party, together with the two waggons which had been hired by the manager, having gone on in front the men on foot, we on horseback, or rather on ponyback, for neither of our steeds was fifteen hands high. I had found it very hard to get serviceable animals at Pieter-Maritzburg, for at that time all the available, and many unavailable horses, were bought up by the volunteers. Dick had invested in a weedy-looking young mare, and he rode her to death, I heard, in about a fortnight, although he was not in the volunteers. Two of our party had left us to join the native contingent (then being raised) as volunteer officers. They spoke nothing but English, and their men nothing but a Kaffir dialect ; so how they, and many others who joined like them, managed, I do not know. They had also bought miserable hacks. I cannot say much for my own two. One, which Jimmy bestrode, was a rough and ugly Basuto pony, very thin, but with good qualities. My pony was larger, fat, and handsome ; he would have been very good, except for his laziness. I certainly never have seen so lazy a little horse. He would stand stock- still, unless forcibly reminded that he was wanted to A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 9 walk; and when induced to canter, he would in five minutes fall into a walk. These two animals were the means of introducing me to the common domestic insect of this part of the world, namely, the " tick/' or " bush- louse/' as it is called by the Boers. There were hundreds on both the ponies, and the groom of the hotel being, as Kaffir grooms generally are, a useless addition to the stable, Jimmy and I had employed hours in ridding our ponies of the parasites. I had an idea that I knew what a " tick " was, on sheep in England ; but the South African tick is a wonderful creature. There are grey, brown, whitish, and striped varieties, besides one exceed- ingly poisonous kind, yellow-green on the back, with a white line with symmetrical streaks of red on it running round the edge of the podgy little body, and the belly grey. These insects vary in size, from almost invisibility to the bulk of a hazel-nut. They are very agile ; and if you happen to be sitting on the grass, you have a good chance of seeing one walk nimbly towards you, with a hungry look pervading his small person. What the creatures live on when they don't happen to fall in with some living prey I do not know, but numbers of them certainly have their habitat in the grass. Jimmy and I started on ponyback. With a vague idea that I was going into a wild country, and with a distinct one that Jimmy was not likely to afford me much protection, I had a revolver in a case strapped round my waist, and another in a holster on my saddle. The waggons had started in a hurry ; and there having been some misunderstanding on my part as to when I was to have all my things loaded up, a good many things belong- ing to Jimmy and myself had been left behind, and these io A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. were crammed into our saddle-bags, and tied on our saddles. However, we started, and having arrived at an even stretch of road halfway up the hill immediately beyond the village, Jimmy proposed a canter. It was not a particularly fast one, but the effect was disas- trous. I was a little in front when I heard " Hilloa ! I say, look what's happening ! " and looking back, I beheld the road strewed with articles which had gradually fallen from Jimmy's various parcels. Jimmy looked disconsolate as he returned, and began to pick them up and tie them on again, while I sat on my pony and laughed. This was unfair, I must confess, for the loading up arrangement had been of my invention, not Jimmy's. Presently we came up to one of our party, sitting, hot and weary, on a big stone near to a hand-cart laden with miscellaneous articles, which, had not arrived in time to be packed in the waggons. I must here observe, that the manager of our party had contracted for our being taken to Pretoria with our goods by a carrier, or what is here called a transport- rider, and the transport-rider was imperious about when he would "in and out-spann," to use a South African phrase for putting the oxen into and letting them out of the yoke. I confess that, being at the time ignorant of the conditions of transport-riding, I thought our carrier unreasonable on this and many other occasions. But experience has taught me that in respect of his treatment of oxen in this one particular, he was altogether reason- able, for in travelling with an ox-waggon, even an in- human man, and our driver wa's one, must consider his oxen, or else he. will stick fast on the road. The young gentleman who was sitting hot and weary on the stone, guarding the hand-cart while his com- A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 1 1 panions in misfortune had gone to drink somewhere, must have been a very amiable person if he did not feel something akin to hatred of Jimmy and myself as we rode up, and after a few words rode on. He did his best to look cheerful; and this was creditable to him, although it was a failure, for who could be expected to look cheer- ful at being harnessed two abreast to a heavy hand-cart, and having to drag it uphill for miles in a broiling sun ? Everything, however, has an end. Some time after Jimmy and I reached the place where the waggons were outspanned, the cart was brought in, the articles in it placed in the wa ergons, and the cart itself sent back I forget how to Pieter-Maritzburg. When the oxen were inspanned and we started once more, we felt that we were fairly en route ; and being so, let me describe the waggons, which were to serve us as houses until we reached Pretoria. The one was an open buck- waggon, something of the same make as our large English hay-waggons, with a tarpaulin, or what is here called " a buck-sail/' thrown over it to protect the goods. There were, I think, eighteen oxen in this waggon, which was driven principally by the Africander trans- port-rider, a small man, with red whiskers and mous- tache. The other waggon was also a buck-waggon, or waggon with railings projecting from the sides for the support of goods ; but on the back half of it there was a tent, formed of canvas stretched on bent laths, so as to form a complete covering at the sides and top. The ends were furnished with canvas flaps, to be shut or opened at pleasure. With very few articles packed in a half-tent, its occupant, if there be but one, may be comfortable enough ; but when, in addition to 12 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. cases, the entire paraphernalia which a company of twelve men, most of them unaccustomed to travelling, think necessary to keep handy, is tumbled into it, the conditions are altered. Of course each man had a rifle, and these weapons had to be kept exceptionally handy, although they did not get us more than two or three brace of birds during our whole trek, and not even one buck. The result of twelve men and one woman (myself) having these things " handy " in a half-tent was this. The various articles underwent a rotatory movement every time one of them was wanted, and became well mixed up. Later on I was able to make canvas bags and tie them up to the sides of the tent, and so save my property from the general confusion, but at the outstart my goods contributed to it. Our evening outspann was on a bleak hill-top, along which a thick, damp mist was beginning to sweep. It soon enveloped us, and rendered the cooking of the evening meal difficult. In agreeing with the transport- driver, no definite understanding had been come to as to what assistance the natives under his control were to render, hence they gave us very little, and the men had to bring water, fuel, &c., and make the fire themselves. This a native will do in pouring rain, but an Englishman, as a rule, is puzzled to do it even in a drizzling mist. Presently, through the mist, up rode the two of our party who had joined the volunteers ; they came to bid their companions God-speed, and then rode off, as it was already late. I don't know what became of one of them ; the other was massacred as he lay ill of fever in the hospital at Rorke's Drift. In the meantime the tent for the men was pitched by them. I had a tent, but I think I only A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 13 persuaded them to pitch it for my benefit four times, and I forget whether this was one of those occasions. Pre- sently supper made its appearance. The meal consisted of fried ham, bread, and coffee without milk, be it under- stood. It does not sound badly, but I will describe it in the words of the man who cooked it : " Rancid tallow candle, with lots of salt in it." He would not eat of it ; but I was very hungry, and did, although I confess the description was accurate. 14 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. CHAPTER III. I SHALL not give a lengthened description of a journey in or with an ox-waggon, through a country whose lead- ing feature is an utter absence of any objects of interest, except to the eye of a speculative farmer, and even he could not but be disagreeably impressed by the want of water. I will sum it up by saying, that we travelled over many miles of undulating country, starting early in the morning, outspanning in the middle of the day, and travelling again in the evening, during which time we were not particularly comfortable. The men generally walked ; Jimmy and I rode. It was very rough, although after our first evening the food improved ; but the want of milk was trying. Then, too, it is unpleasant when the weather is very hot not to be able to get a good wash, or to change one's linen often ; and these were impossibilities for me, owing to my not being able to induce the men to pitch my tent. The waggon-tent wag too much cumbered for even an active person, not to say one who is lame, as I am, to perform satisfactory ablutions in; and the absence of trees made an im- promptu dressing-room a thing not to be thought of. Sometimes we came to a little shanty called an hotel, and then I eagerly seized the opportunity for a A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 1 5 wash ; but these accommodations -were very few, and far between. One duty which devolved on me, many would, I dare- say, consider a hardship, but I did not mind it ; this was cleaning my horse. I was a new hand at grooming a horse then, having previously only had the brush and comb in my hands en amateur, and it is one thing to rub down a well-groomed horse for amusement, and another to clean a very dirty and hot one under a broiling sun ; but I cannot say that I disliked this hardship, although I used to wish that our outspanning times were such as to allow of my grooming operations being carried on at some hour when the sun was low. At best, however, a mid-day outspann in a treeless country is objectionable; it is pleasanter to be moving than stationary during the process of being broiled. It is true that under the waggon there is a little shade, but in this case it was not available for me, being fully occupied by the tired men. It is, however, absolutely necessary for oxen to rest in the heat of the day if they are to work well ; and, as I said before, our conductor in this respect was a good manager. The first place that made an impression on my mind was Kar- Kloof. It is approached by a road that winds round a hill-side, and then one is almost startled by the abruptness and length of the ascent in front. It seems almost impossible for oxen to drag a loaded waggon up so long and steep a hill. It is a picturesque place (for Africa), with deep gullies at the side of the rugged road, and with even a sprinkling of trees. On the top of this tremendous hill is a tiny iron house an inn, and very glad I was that such a thing existed ; for hardly were we 1 6 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. at the top when a most terrific storm broke over us. There was even a stable, or what served the purpose of one, and in it, to my great relief, I was able to get shelter for the horses. The landlady, a most garrulous and in- quisitive old person, was very kind to me ; although she apparently regarded my companions as undesirable characters, and came down on them very sharp whenever she could. The storm ended in a thick mist, through which one of the men thought he saw a buck, and in- continently set forth, rifle in hand. The buck disappeared, and so did its would-be persecutor ; the disappearance of the former being for good, and of the latter for the whole night, which he spent in forlornly wandering in continual dread of losing his footing amongst the rocks and gullies as completely as he had lost his way. Then there was Estcourt, a place that looked pretty by moonlight, but not so well by daylight ; and then there was the Drachensberg, or Dragon Mountain. I had heard much of this terrible mountain, and dreadful accounts of what happened to waggons whilst attempting to cross it; I therefore approached it with a certain amount of respect. The Drachensberg is not a single mountain, but a very long chain, as any one can see by looking at it on the map. At its foot the road coming from Natal divides into two, one branch leading across the mountain into the Free State, the other going to Newcastle. We were to go by the former, and I now learned that we were to go to Pretoria via Heilbronn and Heidelberg. My knowledge of the geography of the country was not up to the mark, but it was sufficient to render this announcement start- ling to me, the taking Heilbronn en route to Heidelberg A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 1 7 bringing me some sixty or seventy miles out of my way ; however, the conductor said he had to go, and that was considered to be conclusive. I believe the reason he gave was, that having lost many of his oxen on the road, and thinking it likely he should lose more, he had to go to Heilbronn, where his home was, for fresh oxen ; in reality, he went to pick up his wife, who wanted to pay a visit to Heidelberg. But whatever was the reason, he said he must go by Heilbronn ; and we, having no pre- vious contract as to the road by which he was to travel, had to obey. We left the hospitable little inn at the foot of the mountain in the afternoon. The preamble of our starting was as follows : My horse's withers having been touched by the saddle, and Jimmy's pony being also touched on the back, I said I would g-o in the waggon. " If that be so," said the conductor, " your young friend had best go with you." " Why ? " I inquired. "Because very likely the waggon may be upset," quoth the conductor. What benefit I was to derive from Jimmy's presence in such a case I did not pause to inquire, but, as speedily as I could, descended from my destined conveyance just in time to see a wretched sheep in its dying agonies, having been killed for our supper by one of the men, alongside of the waggon, to which it was speedily hung. The innkeeper now provided a light carriage called a " spider," drawn by four oxen, for my benefit, in which I started some time after the waggons had done so. The ascent of the Dragon Mountain is certainly pic- turesque, although the lack of trees is very much felt, c 1 8 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. but the effect of it was greatly marred by a thick mist which came on as evening drew in. Presently we came to our waggons, stuck in the mud amongst a lot of others all in the same predicament. It was a nice pleasant look-out ! The spider deposited me in the mud ; the men pitched their tent in the mud ; and presently up came Jimmy leading the two ponies, all very muddy. The supper was what might be expected under the cir- cumstances. I got Jimmy into the waggon with me, tied the horses to the back of it, and fed them from my hand for the mud made it impossible to feed them on the ground, and I had no nose-bag for them and then pre- pared to go to sleep. My remembrance of that night is, that it was a perpetual struggle to avoid slipping out at the back ; for as there was no mattress, but only a blanket or two thrown on a mixed assortment of articles, promi- nent amongst which were the rifles of the party, and the waggen stood on a steep incline, not only oneself, but all one was lying on had a downward tendency. Towards morning I heard dismal sounds from a member of our party who had attempted to sleep on the waggon, outside the tent but under the buck-sail, and then a clank which told me that his head must have come in collision with a certain tin box of mine. " I can't stand this any longer," he groaned ; and I heard him descend to where, under the waggon, some of his companions had been sleeping in the mud. This woke them, and they began making comparisons between the relative coldness of their backs, which so amused me that I completely woke up, to find the dawn breaking very sullenly. I found the poor ponies warm under their blankets, but slipping in the mud, which was by this A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 19 time over their pasterns, and got them something to eat. Then with difficulty I woke Jimmy who solemnly assured me he had not slept a wink all night and suggested to him the advisability of saddling, and trying to push on to an inn on the Willow River, which I heard was about twelve miles distant. This we did, passing a waggon, all broken to pieces in its fall, a little way ahead of our waggons, which, with the rest of the party, did not get to our harbour of refuge by the Willow River for two days, having fearful weather on the mountains. We were now in the Orange Free State, and during my stay at the little hostelry I heard much political talk, ad verse to the English, from an old Free- Stater somewhat addicted to the bottle. I also had a conversation with a gentleman of a very inventive turn of mind, who told me some wonderful stories, to which I listened gravely. Whenever something suggested to him that my won- derment was getting too strong, he would appeal in a most artless manner to the memory of a friend of his who was there, and the friend always remembered. These two were dwellers in the Transvaal, but both, with delightful naivete, cautioned me not to trust any Transvaalists, as they were all fearfully acute and untrustworthy. On the morning after the arrival of our party at the Willow River, Jimmy and I started for Harrismith, the others, with the waggons having gone on before. We found them having breakfast, and stopped for a few minutes with them. Harrisniith looked like a dismal little attempt at a town. I was fresh from European and Indian cities and towns then. Now, after a little more than two years in c 2 2O A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. the Transvaal, I have become sufficiently savage to think Harrismith, whenever I may next see it, quite a respect- able attempt at one. There are two inns in the place ; the one to which we went was fairly comfortable at least the sitting-room, dining-room, and my bedroom adjoining the sitting-room, were very good. I could see that the bedroom was the show bedroom, and I don't know what the others were. The stable was large, and crammed with horses just tied to the manger, without any divi- sion between them, and so closely packed that it was difficult to get between them so as to clean one's own horse. And the dirt ! The Augean stable must have been a trifle to it ! From Harrismith we were to trek to Heilbronn, and when our party came up it was proposed that I should go there in the post-cart, leaving Jimmy in charge of my horse and his own. I was rather loath to trust my horse to the tender mercies of either Jimmy or any of the men ; but I had two reasons for acceding to the proposal first, that the horses withers were touched by the saddle ; secondly, that my companions were evidently looking forward with delight to the idea of getting rid of me, and I felt it would be ungenerous to disappoint them. So it was arranged that they were to start on the morning of, I think, Thursday, and I was to start on Friday in the post-cart. Just as they were starting, I bethought me that it might be as well not to carry money with me during my solitary drive with the Kaffir post-boy, and keeping only enough for roadside expenses, I sent the rest of my possessions on in the waggon ; and, bidding Jimmy and my pony farewell, I prepared to employ the remainder of A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 2 1 the day as best I could. There were a few books on the round table in the sitting-room, none of them worth read- ing but one, Dickens's " Great Expectations." With this to enjoy, I lay down on the sofa ; and had a thorough rest. The next morning I remained in bed until my coffee was brought to the door by a Kaffir ; and I was dressing leisurely, when I was startled by hearing a voice I was sure was Jimmy's. I hurried out, and there, in good truth, was Jimmy, looking very tired. In answer to my astonished inquiry how he came to be there, he recounted the following story, which he believes in implicitly to the present day, but to which no one else has ever attached any credit. He had ridden in front of the waggons, leaving my pony in charge of the men, and although believing him- self to be on the right road, virtually lost his way. Being, I fancy, rather glad to ride his pony just as he liked, instead of under my inspection, he rode and dismounted, rode and dismounted, until evening began to creep up, when it occurred to him as odd that the waggons were not coming up into sight. Just about this time he was close to a small stony hill or coppie, down which he saw three Kaffirs, armed with assegais, coming. He looked at them with some suspicion, and rode on, looking behind every now and then, when he observed that they were following him. He then cantered, upon which they ran; then, according to his account, he caused his pony to gallop a feat I don't think the pony was capable of; anyhow, he attained to a pace which appeared a very fast one to the rider, when one of the Kaffirs threw an assegai after him, which overshot him, and stuck quivering in the ground. Thereupon Jimmy struck across the veldt, and 22 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. cantered or galloped along till night stopped him. He then dismounted and led the pony, feeding himself and his little steed with some gingerbread and other biscuits he had in his pocket ; but as he had no idea where he was, it was not much use walking about leading a pony. However, he presently saw a light in the distance, and making for it, found it to proceed from the fire of a friendly waggoner, who told him he was some twenty miles from Harrismith, but far off the waggon-road to Heilbronn, and who advised him to go with him to Harrismith, whither he was bound, and to find me out. He then gave him some supper and a blanket, and tied the pony behind the waggon, so that Jimmy need not stir when the waggon started. All I can say about the assegai story is, that the Free State was far from the seat of war, in a condition of profound peace, and that I was informed that it is unlawful in the Free State for Kaffirs to carry assegais. One thing was evident, Jimmy was there, and so was the pony. Jimmy was tired; the pony completely knocked up. The question was, what could I do ? I had my ticket for the post-cart, which was to start at ten o'clock, and a few shillings over what my hotel bill would amount to and the price of a place in the post-cart was four sovereigns ! It was evident that money must be raised, and so I raised it by selling the pony ; and then Jimmy and I awaited the arrival of the post- cart, which was supposed to take us to Heilbronn in two days. Its advent was heralded by very loud talking. A gentleman on horseback was alongside of it, who in excited tones drew the attention of another individual to the state of the hulking Kaffir driver of the vehicle. A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 23 " I can't think of allowing a lady to go with the drunken brute/' he exclaimed. " We must get another driver." Whereupon he jumped off his horse. " I'll give you a jolly hiding, and send you to prison, you rascal. You stand there, and take that and that and that and that/' and he struck the Kaffir across the head, arms, and breast, with his heavy stinging ox-hide whip. The fellow barely stirred a muscle. I could hardly at the time think that he felt much, but Kaffirs will some- times bear a beating that does hurt in that way. There was a twitch of the mouth each time the whip fell that was all. " Now you take him away," quoth the excited man ; " and you here, you must drive." You here was a diminutive Hottentot. " I can't drive," said the Hottentot. " Oh, never mind that," said the excited gentleman, who probably knew this was not the case; ''jump up ! " "And I don't know the road." " Then you'll have to find it out. You drove the cart some time ago you must know it; jump up ! " and up the Hottentot jumped. The vehicle into which he jumped, and into which I proceeded to scramble, had once been a dog-cart, but was now a ruin ; the system of pieces of leather and cord, ingeniously twisted together, which attached it to the horses, had, I suppose, once been a set of harness ; the horses once had certainly been very good, but now they were a pair of vicious, jibbing rips. How they did jib ! and when the united efforts of the little Hottentot (who soon proved that he could drive) and some four or five 24 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. other men had got them to move, how they did rush away with the little cart ! They were just sobering down to a reasonable pace at the outskirts of the village when my driver said, " Will you hold the reins ? That's my house ; I must say good- bye to my wife, and get my blanket." The small man could talk English. Upon his return from taking a fond adieu of Mrs. Hottentot, the horses steadily refused to move. Jimmy had to push the wheels, and there was a great to-do before, with a plunge, they got away again ; but alas ! there was a spruit, or small ravine with a brook running through it, before us ! The Hottentot in the meanwhile opened his heart to me. " It is very hard pressing me like this/' he said. " I don't remember the road ; and my ribs were broken the other day, and they are hardly well." I don't know whether the effect was that of the broken ribs or not, but as he spoke the little man foamed at the mouth like a champing horse, which was unpleasant when one was to leeward of him, as I was : I therefore discouraged conver- sation. A few minutes after brought us to the spruit, where the operations of coaxing, whipping, and pushing the jibbing horses, had to be resorted to. The road was very uneven, and this had to be repeated at every little hitch, we therefore got along rapidly. I was looking for- ward with anxiety to the change, but it only brought us even worse horses. Then the harness took to breaking, and was mended with little strips of leather and pieces of twine, produced out of his pocket by the little driver. Each change seemed to bring us worse horses. At last a pair of almost unbroken colts were put in. It was a terrible battle to get them to start at all, and then they A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 25 went at a furious rate, but stopped at the first hitch, and plunged the harness nearly off, breaking it hopelessly in one place. The Hottentot's resources were exhausted ; but fortunately I had a little hunting-crop with me, and its lash did excellent service. "We must be 'near the house where I ought to leave some letter," said the Hottentot at one place; "but I don't know the road." " Dear me," said I, with my European conscientious- ness about letters still unimpaired. " What can you do?" " Oh, I shall just go on," said the little man. " It isn't my fault. I told him I didn't know the road." Presently it began to get dusk and chilly. " I can't get to the right place for outspanning for the night," said the driver. " We must stop at the next house." A Dutch farmhouse is very different from an English one. It is merely, as a rule, a wretched hovel, stuck down in the middle of a waste of grass. The Free State farmhouses are particularly desolate- looking, owing to the Free State being unfit for agricul- ture, and given over to pasturing cattle, sheep, and horses. The cottage where we stopped, however, was rather a good specimen, and the people a young man and a pretty woman, his wife were very hospitable, and gave us a good supper, cleanly served, and, to me at least, a clean bed. There was a nice basin and jug, with a clean towel neatly folded over it, in my room ; but they never thought of the water ! I cannot describe the country we travelled through, for there is nothing in it to describe ; it is simply a wide expanse of grass, with spruits running through it at 26 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. intervals spruits with quantities of stones, but sometimes only a trickle of water in them. The flocks of sheep, and herds of cattle and horses, are striking features of the scene. Through this scenery, if scenery it could be called, we took our way once more on Saturday morning. Our hosts would accept of no payment, only thanks. They gave us a cup of black coffee before we started, without either sugar or milk I suppose the cows were not yet milked and we were off once more. A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 27 CHAPTER IV. AFTER a long drive we got to a small house, into whose one room a large and very dirty family were crowded. Here the woman gave us a bottle of milk, and a little farther on we got some bread the man who gave it to us asking for payment, but not getting any, because I had only gold and he had no silver. The horses in the mean- time were becoming from bad to worse, Jimmy and our charioteer having frequently to get out to push the wheels, the reins being delivered over to me ; and many a laugh I had, although frightened, at the frantic rush these two would make after the cart when the horses at last bolted off, I doing my best to hold them in, so as to allow the little Hottentot (who in spite of his broken ribs was an active fellow) to jump in, and then extending a hand backwards to Jimmy, who had to take flying leaps up to the back seat. The broken ribs of our driver occasioned him, much to his sorrow, to transgress the regulation laid down that, when approaching any dwelling 1 , the driver of a post-cart is to blow a horn. A Hottentot delights in any row on a thing supposed to be a musical instrument, and our Jehu so greatly deplored his inability to perform his duty, that I, not at that time appreciating the true cause of his grief, 28 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. offered to endeavour to extract sounds from the old brass horn. My endeavours were, however, not crowned with success, nor were Jimmy's. We achieved a great puffing out of our cheeks and a peculiar snorting noise, but nothing more. By nightfall we arrived at a house, which impressed me as the most squalid I had ever seen I do not mean the combination of poverty and dirt to be seen in London, but squalor in the midst of plenty. This is a common sight amongst the Boers, but it was a new one then to me ; and it remains stamped on my memory. We approached this dwelling by a road which was invisible to me ; indeed I had long ceased to wonder at our driver having, as he said at starting, forgotten the ' ' road/' for often when he seemed undecided as to which he should take, I could discern none whatever over the bare, dried grass. It was a raw evening with a mist coming on, and the long low-roofed cabin stuck down in the middle of the veldt, with three stunted trees near it, looked cheerless in the extreme. Our advent was heralded by a barking chorus from a number of gaunt dogs ; this brought out seven men and boys. The little Hottentot whispered " You must shake hands with every one ;" and I descended and instantly commenced operations. The oldest of the men led us into the house, where we shook hands with a woman and a number of girls, big and little, terminating with a small baby. All the hands were very dirty. I leaned against the half-door and looked out at the three trees, wishing very much that I could speak to these people, and turning, saw Jimmy sitting disconso- lately near me, whilst ranged round the room on benches, sat the family, regarding us gravely. It was absolutely A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 29 necessary to say or do something, so I made a desperate effort to form some sounds resembling Dutch out of a combination of German and English. One of the little girls was a pretty curly-headed little creature with large serious eyes. I thought I would make her the subject of my remarks. I daresay that the expression of my face was more intelligible than my words, for the woman looked pleased, and the eldest of the men said something to the effect that she was his daughter. The Hottentot now appeared, and squatted on the step of the half-door, and he was able to act as interpreter. The family consisted of a man and his wife and their children. It seemed wonderful, for there really appeared to be less than ten years difference between the two eldest men : presently more gawky boys came in and shook hands, until the whole family being assembled, I discovered that there were, I think, fourteen children. They were rich in flocks and herds, and yet all but the father, mother, and two eldest sons were barefooted ; none had stockings ; none appeared to be possessed of a brush and comb, or of soap ! " I wonder if they are going to give us anything to eat," whispered Jimmy. " Ask them." I did not like to do so, not knowing whether it might be considered a liberty, as I did not know whether pay- ment for food would be accepted ; but I wondered too, for I was very hungry, having eaten nothing but a little bread since morning. Presently the eldest girl brought me abasin, with a small quantity of water in it, and a not over-clean-looking cloth. I had my own soap and towel, and washed ; the same basin and water was presented to Jimmy, who washed ; it then 3O A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. passed to the father, who threw the water on his face and hands and wiped them with the cloth, and from him it passed in regular order down to the youngest boy, a lad of about eleven ! The girls did not wash. A cloth was now laid on the table, and plates with bowls on them placed on it, a big basin full of milk, and a dish full of a sort of hard, crisp bread, peculiar to this country and very nice, was placed near it. Jimmy, the father, and I had knives, forks, and spoons, the rest had spoons only. It was dark now, and a tallow candle illumined the scene. The father said a long grace in Dutch, and then the mother helped all to milk and biscuits the hard bread is called Boer biscuit here whilst the eldest girl brought in a very small piece of boiled mutton. This the father cut into three pieces, giving one to Jimmy, one to me, and reserving one for himself. I enjoyed my supper, and ended my meat before my host had finished his. Seeing this, I saw him eye me thoughtfully for a minute or so with uplifted knife and fork, then he pushed his own plate over to me. I smiled, thanked him in German, and shook my head, whereupon he drew it back again with a look of relief, and ate the meat that remained on it. And this man had hundreds of fat wethers, and full- flanked oxen grazing on his farm ! I think grace was said when all was done, and shortly after various sheep and goat-skins were spread on the floor, and oil a bench by the side of the room ; and then the mother signed to me to follow her, and led me into a dark little closet, in which was a big very dirty-looking bed, a number of little delft bowls on a shelf, and abso- lutely nothing else. On the bare rafters various articles, including rags of apparel, were hung. Here she left me, A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 31 without a candle, the only light I received being from the candle in the sitting-room, which showed over the top of the door. There was a window, or rather a small opening in the wall, with a shutter to it ; this was open when 1 went in, and to it I trusted for light and air ; but hardly had the woman left me, ere I heard it being barricaded, in some very secure manner judging from the noise, on the outside ; then the 'candle went out in the sitting-room, and I heard sounds of people lying down. I lay down dressed, and for a long time listened to such a chorus of snoring that I felt convinced the whole family were sleeping in the sitting-room ; and, such was indeed the case, as I learnt next morning from Jimmy. He slept with one of the sons on the bench. None of the party undressed. Boers never do when they go to bed, not even in case of illness ; indeed, they think it the height of impropriety to do so so much so that a Boer who travelled in the waggon of an English Africander, an acquaintance of mine, afterwards said to the wife of the latter, " I shall never travel in William's waggon again with him ; it is so dreadful of him to take his trousers off when he goes to bed." My bed was the domicile of innumerable insects. We had coffee and a wash in the basin, and started early. The horses were of the usual description, the scenery of the usual description, and the delivery of letters of the usual description ; and this reminds me that I have not described the operation. On arriving at a place where horses had to be changed, the little Hottentot would request me to stand up, and, opening the top of the seat he and I occupied, would take out a lot of rags 32 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. and pieces of leather, which seemed to be considered as valuables to be kept, and then pull out the letters, parcels, and papers, and make them over to me to de- cipher their addresses. The addresses were generally badly written, the names Dutch, and the places unknown to me; hence I think it probable that a great many letters went astray. I know my audience, namely, the driver and a Boer or two, more than once said they did not know the name of the individual I read out. However, the little Hottentot settled the matter somehow, and I suppose there were no more letters left wrongly on this occasion than on any other. It has sometimes occurred to me to wonder how letters get to their desti- nation at all in the Orange Free State, judging from my experience of the post-cart, and from the fact that I heard from several persons at Heilbronn that the usual driver of the post-cart, namely, the Kaffir with whom my excitable friend in Harrismith had dealt so summarily, lived in a constant state of intoxication, frequently lying for hours on the ground by the side of the post-cart, whilst the wretched horses grazed, glad enough to be rid of their tormentor, who, when he was in his seat, always drove at a gallop, flogging them without intermission. I forget whether it was on this day, or on the pre- vious one that we came to a small river with very steep banks, and that the small Hottentot informed us that we had better get out of the vehicle, as he felt sure it would be upset. I concurred in this opinion, although getting out meant fording the river on foot; and indeed, if there had been any weight behind them the horses would certainly have upset the concern ; as it was, they jibbed and plunged on the sharp descent, and then bolted A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 33 through the river and up the other side. How the cart held together during the frantic leaps it had to take over the big stones that strewed the bottom of the river, and the road beyond it, I don't know the more so as one wheel had been shaky from the time we started. Jimmy and I waded through the river, which came up nearly to my knees, and had to climb into the cart as quickly as we could, and off we went again. It was Sunday now, and we ought to have been in Heilbronn on Saturday evening. We were to have two more changes of horses, and were to pass through the small town of Frankfurt before reaching our destination. Our last change but one brought us a pair of very fine horses, if they had been in good condition ; but they were very thin, their chests raw from the pressure of the chest-strap (collars are not used here), and they looked very vicious. It was hard work harnessing them, and then there was a pitched battle before they would start. It was no wonder, for it must have been dreadful pain to throw their raw chests against the band ; the blood was running from them before the poor brutes chose that pain instead of the pain of the flogging they were getting from three men besides the driver. It really was dangerous work driving these horses, for they were very strong, hard-mouthed, and added kicking to the accomplishments of the animals we had before had ; in fact, not far from our starting-point one of them sent his hoof through the splash-board in unpleasant proximity to my knee. It was early in the afternoon when we reached Frankfurt. I was told there was a village there ; but all I saw was a small white house, the post-office ; another small white house of a shape that snggested to D 34 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. me that it was a church, and which I learnt was one ; and I think three little cottages with gardens, in a row at a little distance. There were some children and girls in their best dresses lounging near the post-office, one of whom I particularly remember, owing to the strange incongruity of her attire with both her appearance and her surroundings. She was a podgy young lady of about sixteen, and was arrayed in a white skirt, over which a pink polonaise of some miserable sort of stuff was put on, and a hat with bad imitation flowers in it. The postmaster, or some one who I supposed was he, came out and received letters ; told me also in answer to my inquiries that Heilbronn was not very far, but that we had a very ugly spruit to cross. I asked if we could not have other horses ; but he said that was impossible and we started again. We got the horses off well, and were bowling down a grassy decline towards the three cottages before named, when the little Hottentot dis- covered a letter by his side which he had not left. He pulled up the horses, and the postmaster and another man a little short man, with black hair and whiskers, a black coat, and a white collar came running np. Now the question was to start the horses again. They evidently thought that having started once they had done their duty ; they had no idea of doing it for a second time, and proceeded to display all their accomplishments. In the meantime the little black man, who had a very goodnatured broad face, favoured us with descriptions of the spruit in front of us. " The cart is generally upset there," he said cheerfully. " Very often, at least/' said the postmaster ; " it was upset last time." A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 35 " I really think you are bound to find me other horses/' I said then. " The persons who have the management of this post-cart are certainly responsible for any damage a passenger may receive, when such horses as you see these to be are kept in it. There must be some other horses here, and you are in duty bound to take these out." The two men looked somewhat convinced. " I would ask Mr. to lend his horses," said the postmaster, " but they are in the veldt, and would have to be sent for, and there would be great delay ; you are a day behind time already." I very nearly laughed. " Well," I said, " not so much delay as if we are upset and the cart broken in the spruit ; and you must see that is what will probably take place with these horses." My listeners seemed suddenly convinced ; the effect of my words was magical ! It was instantly agreed that the horses should be sent for to the veldt, and my cheer- ful-looking little friend in black requested me to descend and accept of his hospitality. He offered his arm, and asked abruptly whether I was a member of the Esta- blished Church? My reply in the negative completely stunned him, or completely satisfied him ; he made no further remark, but led me to one of the three white cottages. This reminded me of an English farmhouse, and was a very pleasant relief. Some neighbours, who all talked English, dropped in, and we had tea and bread and butter. Poor Jimmy had not been asked in, and I felt very sorry for him whilst eating my bread and butter, for I knew he must be very hungry. It was getting soine- D 2 36 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. what late in the afternoon when we started once more, the owner of the horses which had replaced the vicious pair using his own harness and driving himself, whilst the Hottentot drove his steeds walking behind them. The spruit was a very ugly one, but we got over it all right, thanks to this kind Frankfurtian, whose name I forget. He left us at the house where we got our last change. The horses were good, and we got into Heil- bronn by dark without farther adventure. A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 37 CHAPTER V. WHATEVER it may be now I do not know, but then Heilbronn consisted of a square of fifteen small houses, and a few outstanding ones, stuck on a slope in the middle of a perfectly bare country. If you walked to the upper side of the village, you could look along a grassy expanse to where it touched the horizon, whichever way you turned your head. The hotel was a long low cottage. The entrance door led you straight into the sitting-room, from whence a step led you into the dining-room at the back. Two doors at each side of the sitting-room, each led you into a small bedroom. That is the plan of pretty nearly all Boer houses that have any pretensions the architects of the nation can conceive nothing grander. The size may vary, but the plan remains. There were other tiny bedrooms built at the back, to get to which one had to go from the dining-room into the yard. Two of these were appropriated to Jimmy's and my use. The people of the inn a man and wife with a large family were good sort of people, I think, and wished to make us as comfortable as they could. They had two other boarders, unmarried men who had some employ- ment in the village, and a good many men came there to dine. It was a strange gathering at meals, and the con- 38 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. versation was amusing. Very odd, too, it appeared to me, to hear shopkeepers in this funny little town looked upon as magnates in the land. Of course everybody knew everybody, and was free and easy with everybody, and of course Keilbronn delighted in gossip ; what small place does not ? We arrived two days before Christmas Day, and on Christmas-eve mine hosts gave a dance in the public sitting-room. Amongst the guests were the judge of the place, and the magistrate, or landroost, a shopkeeper or two, some of their assistants, and a dressmaker. During the pauses of dancing a musical box played the dance music itself was performed on a fiddle and there were some songs. But oh, the dancing ! Whilst it was going on, I sat a spectator in the dining-room. They all danced with great gravity and ponderosity, if I may use such a word; but some clung to each other as they hopped heavily round and round to a waltz tune; others charged round savagely with outstretched arms, to the imminent danger of their neighbours; others held their arms stretched down so tightly that they looked as if they were mutually desirous of dislocating each other's shoulders; whilst one couple, a chubby little man and woman, regardless of the time of either the music or the dancing of the others, with a stolid smile On each fat little face, turned slowly round and round as on a pivot. I cannot say how they managed it ; their progression was very slow, and they seemed quite regardless of the collisions they came in for. I saw them get a thump from one of the chargers which would have knocked a less steady couple down, but only caused them to totter ; but the comicality of their appearance at last tickled me A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 39 so much that I felt I must laugh if I stayed, and so I took myself off to bed. The entire town of Heilbronn was going out on a pic- nic (a combined picnic) on Christmas Day. Great had been the preparations, and hence great was the woe when Christmas Day broke with a drizzling rain. The great question, to go or not to go ? was discussed until ten o'clock, when there being a slight diminution of the drizzle, it was unanimously decided that it was going to clear up, and the whole white population of Heilbronn went off in waggons and carts. Of course there had been great dis- cussion as to who was to go in who's waggon, and who's cart was to take up whom ; and the arrangements had been slightly complicated at the last moment by two young gentlemen having brought their cart and horses up to the door of the hotel, and there upset it and broken it leading one to the conclusion that the festivities of the previous night had been too much for them. How- ever, everything was at last arranged, and Heilbronn was deserted for the nonce by its inhabitants. The landlady informed me that she had killed two fowls, picked a dish of peas, and made a plum-pudding, for the benefit of Jimmy and myself, and had given her Hottentot girl strict injunctions to make us comfortable. This was her parting blessing, and we were left alone. There was nothing very amusing to be done. There was the musical box, and it seemed to afford some enter- tainment to Jimmy, for he kept it playing nearly all day, driving me almost to insanity thereby; and there were some children's stories of good and bad children, and a mutilated copy of " Ivanhoe." The rain came down heavily after the picnic party had started, and appeared 40 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. likely to continue coming down. Presently we had dinner, minus the peas, which I suppose the Hottentot girl kept for herself. In the afternoon, rather late, the weather cleared, and Jimmy and I walked a little outside the village, and I gave him his first lesson in pistol-shooting. As we were returning I was accosted by a man, who asked me if I were not the lady that was going up country with a party of gentlemen who were expected in Heilbronn daily. I answered in the affirmative; and he then told me that he was the proprietor of one of the spans of oxen our con- ductor had. (I think he was in some sort a partner of his.) He said he heard that many of them were dead of red-water, and that our conductor flogged them cruelly, and had beaten a Kaffir who was with him severely. I said it was all true. It was this man who told me the real reason of our conductor bringing us to Heilbronn. He asked us to go to his cottage, which stood a little apart from the village ; and we went, and found his wife (a pretty young woman) and his baby there. The man was an Englishman with a pleasant English face. He was, as h.e looked and spoke, of the small farmer class. His wife was colonial born. They were very kind and hospitable, and gave us a very nice tea. On our return to the hotel we found the party had returned in very bad humour. I should not think picnicking under a tarpaulin stretched between two waggons in a thick drizzling rain on a dead flat likely to conduce to good temper ; and then there were all the little jealousies and envy ings sure to arise on such occasions Mr. So-and-so had done this and said that, and so on. The picnic had set the whole little town by the ears ! A Lady Trader in tJie Transvaal. 41 A day or two after, our party arrived bringing my pony with them. I had heard that the horse-sickness was likely to be bad as soon as we crossed the Vaal, so I sold him at Heilbronn to my pleasant-looking English acquaintance, and resolved to travel thenceforth in the waggon. A good many things belonging to the con- ductor were taken out of it at Heilbronn, and it was made much more comfortable in consequence. The evening that we were to start, I went to take tea with the purchaser of my pony, and I have a vivid recol- lection of the excellent pancakes I was eating, when one of our party tapped at the door and said the waggon was waiting for me. Certainly a kind welcome given to a stranger travelling alone in a wild country, is one of the things the angel who records good actions ought always to make a note of. I missed my pony very much. To jolt hour after hour in an ox-waggon along a dead flat under a broiling sun is objectionable : and being now always with the waggon, the spectacle of the brutality of our conductor to his oxen, and the fearful language used by him, were very hard to bear. We crossed the Vaal on New Year's eve, and I shall never forget his wanton cruelty on the occasion. The river separated us, or, powerless as I was, I should have felt called upon to interfere, as no one else seemed dis- posed to do so. We were now in the Transvaal, and a day more took us to Heidelberg. We arrived there rather late at night, and I proceeded with Jimmy to the hotel. The waggon was outspanned a little outside the small town, but I was told that I could easily find the hotel by the moonlight, 42 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. and that it would be open. I followed the instructions given me for finding it, but when I arrived at the house I took to be the hotel, it seemed shut up for the night. It was a nice-looking cottage, standing in a pretty garden. Seeing no light in front, I walked to the back, where I saw a glimmer from a candle through the window shutters. This encouraged me, and I knocked at the door with my whip. After a pause, a very frightened female voice cried, " Who is it ? " from within. " A traveller," cried I ; "is not this the hotel ? " Whereupon the door opened, and I saw a very pretty frightened face, with loose hair hanging about it, and a little figure robed in white. " Oh, how you frightened me ! " it said; " my husband is not at home. No, this is not the hotel." Of course I expressed the deepest contrition, and the frightened little lady told me where to go to. Little Heidelberg, sleeping in the moonlight, with the hills around showing brown against the clear sky, looked refreshing after the dreary Free State. We got to the hotel presently. It was shut up, but I was emboldened to knock by two considerations ; the first, that I could not go back to the waggon, because the men I knew would already be asleep in it ; the second, that I had met the proprietor of the hotel at the Willow Eiver, and he had told me to be sure to come to his house. I knocked, and knocked, until Jimmy said, " How can you go on knocking like that ? Well, I never thought you could do such a thing." At last a man's voice from within asked, " What do you want ? Who are you? " " A traveller, " I cried in return. " Can't I have a bed?" The door was unbolted, and I saw my roadside ac- A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 43 quaintance, who had evidently just got out of bed. "I can't give you a bed/ 5 he said ; " we're full." " Oh, Mr. Dubois/' said I, " don't you remember telling me that I must come here ? Do, please, let me in. I can't go back to the waggon, the men will all be asleep in it." Mr. Dubois was mollified. He let me into the room, where I saw a rough-looking man sitting up between the blankets on a sofa-bedstead. " Here," said Mr. Dubois, " you must put your boots on, and you can sleep in there/' pointing to a back-room, " and let the lady have your place/' So the rough-looking man tumbled out ; and Jimmy said good-night, and had to go back to the waggon; Mr. Dubois brought me a piece of candle, and I tumbled into bed, and went very fast asleep in a minute. Nothing particular occurred during our trek from Heidelberg to Pretoria, until we were quite close to the latter place. I think it was at our last outspan that a man, who, in spite of a rakish look, was more like a gentleman than any one I had seen during my travels, rode up to the waggon, and dismounting, entered into conversation. His manners and address confirmd what his appearance had suggested to me. Long after, I heard something of this individual's story, which still farther confirmed my first impression ; the end of it is worth telling, as illustrative of habits and customs out here. It is an odd thing that Boers, although adverse to the English, are very proud if they can induce Englishmen to marry into their families. Our roadside acquaintance, who had earned for himself the sobriquet of " mad " amongst his intimates, was sane enough to make use of this little peculiarity. Being very completely on his beam- 44 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. ends for about the hundredth time, he wooed and won a young Boeress, whose father was prepared to give a handsome portion. Having used all his fascinations so as completely to infatuate his wife and make her think herself the happiest of women, he suddenly decamped, and had got to the Yaal River, on his way into the Free State, when his father-in-law overtook him. The old gentleman was in an agony of rage and anxiety for his daughter, who of course was doing what old women call " taking on " pretty considerably ; the husband was quite cool. He told the story of himself. " What's your figure ? " he asked of his infuriated relative. " Make it high enough, and I'll go back, other- wise I'm off ! " " Will five hundred sheep do ? " gasped the old gentle- man. The younger shook his head. " No," he said, " not enough ; just consider how dread- fully I shall be bored. Make it a thousand, and I'll say done." And the old fellow made it a thousand. This individual told us that he was out in command of volunteers, as it was thought that the Boers might break out next day, when they said they meant to come armed into Pretoria. Of course they did not come into Pretoria. Personally I, writing this in the besieged camp of Pretoria, don't believe they ever will do so ; but it made one feel a pleasant sort of excitement to think that they might, and that we should be just in time to see them do it. We came into Pretoria through a Poort, or opening between the hills, called, I think, Bobian Poort, literally Baboon Entrance. There are no baboons on the hills now, but I suppose there were not long ago. Little Pretoria, with its blue gums and willow-trees, and its A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 45 surrounding hills, looked very pretty in the light of the fast-setting sun. It was nearly dark by the time we had outspanned on a common at the upper end of the town. I asked the manager if he had inquired which hotel was the best for a lady to lodge at. He said he had ; that the " European " was the one recommended ; and I started off with Jimmy. I had to ask my way from a gentleman I saw sitting under his verandah on the out- skirts of the town, and then to walk down a longish road, with rose hedges at each side, and with a sound of running water to be heard, which, although it was too dark to see them, told me that there must be rivulets at both sides too. The cottages, standing back in their gardens, with lights in the windows, looked pleasant and home-like, and I was almost sorry when the pretty road ended in the market-square, with an ugly white church in the middle of it. There were lights in two buildings forming one of the corners of this square low long cottages, and I rightly guessed them both to be hotels. Neither of these appeared to be suited for a lady's lodging the bar being the leading feature in both, and a number of loud-talking men, in broad hats, short coats, and riding-boots, lounging in front of them. I asked a passer-by which was the " European," and he showed me the one which had a verandah, and appeared the fuller of the two. I could see that it had a public dining-room, which seemed crammed, but the only entrance was through the bar; so, taking heart of grace, into the bar I walked. It was as full as it could be of men of the kind who frequent bars ; but, luckily for me, behind the bar itself stood a man who was a gentleman the then proprietor of the " Euro- pean/' since dead (he was killed by lightning, together 46 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. with the horses he was driving) . I asked this gentleman whether I could obtain a lodging at his hotel, telling him at the same time how I had just arrived, a stranger, in Pretoria, and had been told that the " European " was the best hotel for a lady to go to. "Well," he said cour- teously, " you have been misinformed ; it is completely a man's hotel. In fact it is not an hotel, but simply a restau- rant." I bowed, and asked if he could tell me where to go, as I could not return to the waggon. " If you stup into my private room," he said, " I will send you some supper, and I will send round to the " Edinburgh " and " Royal " to know if they have a room to spare." I was only too glad of the offer. Jimmy went back to the waggons, and I had a nice little supper whilst I waited. But alas ! there was not a room at either hotel ; all were full. Mr. Carter (in this instance I give the real name of the individual) then said that all he could propose was this : there was a small room at a little distance from the hotel, whose usual occupant was absent. Mr. Carter had the key, and I could use it for that night. I forthwith started, with a coolie servant for a guide, and was taken to a small room in a stable-yard behind a public-house. There was a stable at one side, and I could hear men's voices in the room at the other side. It was a comfortable little room, and I observed a woman's dress hanging on a peg. Here my guide left me after he had lighted a candle. I pro- ceeded to investigate the fastenings of the door and window. The former I could lock, but there was no way of fastening the other. It was not very pleasant, for the little I had seen of Pretoria that night had made me acquainted with the fact, which farther acquaintance only confirmed, that it is a very rowdy little village, and that a A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 47 woman might better walk about late in London or Paris than in that place. I began to wish I had brought my pistol with me ; however, there was no use wishing, and so I put a chair on the table that stood under the little window, so as to be sure of hearing if any one attempted to get in, and then turned into bed, and found it very comfortable. The next morning I had nothing to do but to go to breakfast at the " European." The eating-room was full of men, but Mr. Carter took me into it himself, and seated me at a little table ; this he did at each meal as long as I stayed there, for which I am still grateful to him. That whole day I passed looking for a lodging, but could find none, and had to sleep once more in my little room. The next day was the same. In the morning a gentleman spoke to me as I was standing under the verandah of the " European/' " You are looking for a lodging, I believe ? " he said. I replied in the affirmative. " So am I," quoth he ; " let us go together ;" so off we started. Life is very free and easy out here, as will be observed, not only on this occasion but on various others throughout my story. The gentleman told me how he came to be in Pretoria he was travelling to see the country ; and I told him something of how I came to be in Pretoria. We walked about and called at various houses, but fruitlessly; at last, as we were walking along a grassy rose-hedged lane, which in Pretoria is called a street, we saw two fashionably dressed ladies standing under the verandah of a cottage with a strip of garden iii front. " Let us ask them if they let lodgings," said my companion. " I don't think it would do," responded I ; but he evidently thought it would, for he went up and 48 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. asked, and I thought I might as well go up too, under the circumstances. The ladies were very kind ; they did not let lodgings, but they asked us in ; my acquaintance soon left us to go in quest of some abode, but I was tired both of walking and of looking for a room, and I stayed and chatted, and had a cup of coffee. In the afternoon, whilst standing under the " European " verandah, I was accosted by the volunteer officer we had met on the road, and shortly afterwards by the gentleman who had on the night of my arrival told me the way to the hotel. In conversation with them I mentioned my difficulties about finding a room, and also the fact that I had two letters of introduction to ladies in Pretoria, but that I was loath to present them so long as presenting them was tantamount to asking them to put me up. I mentioned the names of the ladies, and one of the gentle- men said he knew them ; and with that he walked off, and presently reappeared bringing with him a gentleman, whom he introduced to me as Mr. Farquarson, the husband of one of the ladies, and the son-in-law of the other. Mr. Farquarson took me to see Mrs. Parker, whose house was not far from the hotel ; but on the way he heard from some one that she was not at home, and hence I simply gave him my letters of introduction and returned to the hotel ; but not immediately, for I took a solitary walk first on the outskirts of the village, and thereby missed seeing the two ladies, who called at the "European" whilst I was out. Early the next morning I heard a knocking at the door, and the coolie's voice outside, saying I must get up at once and clear out, that the Newcastle post-cart had just come in, and brought the rightful owner of the room A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 49 I was in. As may be supposed, I turned out pretty quickly. But my difficulties were to cease that day, for Mr. Farquarson came in the morning and carried me off to his cottage at the upper end of the town. Oh, how nice it did seem, with its carpets, and sofas, and nice little nicknacks, and, best of all, its pretty mistress, after travelling so long with rough men ! I went afterwards to Mrs. Parker's cottage, smaller but prettier ; a very gem of a little cottage, with a small brilliant garden in front, and a well-filled kitchen-garden and orchard behind, and a verandah all overhung with beautiful creepers, and with ferns in pots, and easy-chairs, under it, with graceful young trees standing all round it ; and with a pretty setter who gave her paw, and a little spring-bok, and a cross little prairie-dog, or meer-cat as it is called here, as its inhabitants, without counting the mistress of all these nice things ; mistress also of two of the smallest maid-servants I ever saw two little Hotten- tot, or rather Bushman, sisters. They were mere children, but they looked like two pretty little baby monkeys, tripping about noiselessly with their little bare feet, and dressed in their clean little print frocks. The old lady was a relation of old friends of mine in England, and her house and that of her adopted daughter, Mrs. Farquarson, seemed veritable harbours of refuge to me. 5o A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. CHAPTER VI. WE remained a week in Pretoria, during which time all our things had to be removed from the waggons that had brought us from D'Urban, and packed on two others which were to convey us to Rusternberg. This was the destination of our party, and it had been arranged that I was to be lodged and boarded at the farmhouse of the farm they were to work on, and there to remain for a year, during which time I was to receive instruction in the superintendence of South African farming, while I intended to employ my spare time in learning Dutch or what is called Dutch here, for the Dutch talked by the Boers is such a mere patois, with Kaffir, Hottentot, and even English words, mixed up in it, that a real Dutchman, or what they call here a Hollander, neither understands it nor is understood by the Boers. When I saw the waggons which were to convey us to Rustemberg my heart sank within me. One was a buck- waggon, the other a long tent- waggon. The buck- waggon was provided with a buck-sail or tarpaulin, the tent of the other was supposed to keep out the rain without any tarpaulin; but as one could see daylight through it, it was not likely to be of much avail. It was so packed that it was impossible for any one to sit A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 51 up in it, and only a space of about a foot and a half left at the back to allow of dressing, whilst the flap at the back was so ragged that it was easy to see through it, and impossible to fasten it tightly down. Then my tent, which I had lent to the party at their request during my stay in Pretoria, was lost by them during the loading-up process. We started about the middle of the day ; our oxen were a mixed lot a very bad thing, for if oxen are to pull well, one must span them in their accustomed places and on their accustomed sides. Many oxen will never make either good fore or hind oxen. Our drivers were a half-cast of the name of William, and a Kaffir. William drove the tent-waggon. We were hardly out of Pretoria when, at a very small brook, we broke the " disselboorn," or pole, of one of the waggons, I forget which. This caused a long delay, for William had to go back to Pretoria to get a new one. In the meantime we remained outspauned, in a valley about two miles broad and about sixty long. It runs between the Magaliesberg and the Witt-waters Eaudt ; and if any one wants to know the positions of these big hills, or ranges of hills, let them look at the map. The next day William brought the disselboom in a donkey-cart, and we started rather late in the afternoon. There are three high roads by which one can go from Pretoria to Rustemberg in a waggon. One goes over Mosilikats-nek, commonly called Silikats- nek, one over Commando-nek, and another over Oliphants-nek. W^e were to go over Silikats-nek, and hence took the turn which leads to it. The tent-waggon was leading, and was well ahead of the other ; and the Kaffir driver of the other went along the maiu ruad E 2 52 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. without troubling himself to look where the leading waggon was. Some of the men were with one, the rest with the other waggon. The blankets of the party were on one, the food all on the other. It was nearly dark by the time we outspanned, and this division of property made the evening and night agreeable for both divisions of our party. The buck-waggon joined us the next morning, and we got as far as the foot of Silikats-nek by mid-day. The scenery here is fine. The waggon was outspanned under some trees in the middle of thick bush ; above us rose the rugged sides of the Magaliesberg, now beginning to show what becomes its characteristic farther down the valley, namely, a precipice of some hundred feet high crowning its wooded sides. This formation is here called, not inappropriately, a kranz, or crown. Creepers hung in festoons round the bushes, turning them into bowers or impenetrable barriers, as the case might be. I rambled about in this refreshing maze of verdure until dinner was ready, and then I determined to walk on over the nek in front of the waggon, and so not only enjoy the scenery undisturbed, but avoid the flogging of the oxen and accompanying yelling, which was sure to ensue as soon as the oxen took the hill. I inquired particularly of William as to what road I was to take, and he instructed me to keep to the left. William spoke a little English. Arrived at the top of the nek, where the road is, as it were, cut out from between two masses of rock, I looked down on a park-like scene, the well-made road, of a reddish colour, winding through clusters of trees, some of a good size, others small, and most of them festooned by graceful creepers. Leaving an apparently A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 53 old road to my right, I kept along this pretty road until I saw another one turn off to the right. Here I hesitated, but my instruction having been to keep to the left, I did so. Presently a sudden thunder-storm caused me to take shelter under a thick bower of trees and creepers. This was, however, not thick enough to prevent my being wet through by the rain, which came down so quick and strong that it soon turned the road into a river. The storm passed, but no waggon was to be seen or heard, and I, although soaking wet, still wandered on, keeping in the grass by the side of the road. I was tempted on by the quiet beauty of the scene, and by a love of solitude, which had been denied to me for some time. Presently a small tax-cart, drawn by two weedy-looking ponies, came along the road towards me. In it were two men, one an oldish man with a big beard, the other a sleek but dirty-looking little fellow in black clothes, with a sancti- monious look about him. The former said " Good-even- ing ! " as he passed, which made me stop and ask him if I were on the Rustemberg road. He asked where my waggon was ; and I told him I had left it at Silikats-nek. " Then," he said, " I think you probably have passed the turn you should have taken, to the right. You can go to Rustemberg by this road, but it is a little out of your way. There is a farmhouse not far off, but I can hardly recommend you to go to it, for the people are not very nice." I thanked him, and he drove on. I now considered that as it was near sunset, if the waggons had taken the other road I could easily pick them up, as they would be out- spanned for the night, and that I should be able to know whether they had done so by the fresh marks of wheels and oxen's feet, and hence I determined to walk a little 54 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. farther, until the farmhouse should come in sight. Com- mando-neck, with its high kranz towering above its brother hills, and showing sharp against a dark bank of cloud with edges gilt by the setting- sun, and the queer piping of some pretty birds with crests that darted in and out amongst the trees, and whose nearer acquaintance I was anxious to make, were too much for me. Presently the small white farmhouse, built in a cleai'ing, came in sight, and I stopped. The thunder was beginning to growl once more, and bright flashes of lightning to light up the dark mass of cloud behind the precipice of the nek, whilst the nearer hills and the trees were burnished by the setting sun. I stood and looked, then turned, but only to stop and look again, although in front of me when I turned the sky looked unpleasantly lowering. Presently, however, a tremendous crash of thunder, accompanied by some very large drops, warned me to be moving. But I had waited too long ; before many minutes the sky was as dark as night, the rain began to fall, though not very heavily, and when I reached the road I thought the waggon might have taken, I could only see it by the flashes of lightning. It was evident no waggon had passed there. It was now pitch dark, and I had some difficulty in finding the old road which I had remarked on my way out. By the flashes of lightning I again discovered that no waggon had been there. I now concluded that the waggon had had some mishap on the nek, and soon I heard voices, and came up to the party and to the tent-waggon, out- spanned on the very top of the ascent. The buck-waggon with all the eatables in it had stuck half way up. The rain was coming down pretty sharp now. There was A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 55 nothing to eat or to drink but some rum, of which the men were partaking, and I, being still wet through, thought it best to follow their example before rolling myself up in my damp blankets, for the tent leaked, as I expected. When I woke the next morning I found it still drizzling, but with a look in the sky as if the day would be fine. If our former conductor insisted on starting early, and ruled our party, William let them do as they liked, the result being that they did not get out of their blankets until long after the sun was up.' The waggon on the hill was presently brought up, and we started late. We made but one short trek, which brought us to the Crocodile River, where we did a very foolish thing, namely, out- spanned before crossing. It is better even with tired oxen to make them take their waggon through a river at the end of a trek, than try to make them do it just after they are inspanned and before they are warm. It was a very pretty place, with tangled brushwood and tallish trees scattered over the grass and forming a bower over the river in parts. The next morning broke beautifully, and I enjoyed the pretty view, and had early coffee from William's kettle long before the rest of the party thought of stirring, so that it was late in the morning before we spanned in. The ford, or drift, as it is here called, is a nasty one at this place. However, the tent-waggon, in which I was, went through all right. The buck- waggon stuck. There was much flogging and swearing, the end of which was that the disselboom broke, and the waggon remained in the middle of the stream. The oxen were then attached to it behind, it was pulled back to where it had started from, and the oxen turned loose whilst the dissel- 56 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. boom was being 1 mended. This took some time, and when it was at last accomplished it was discovered that the oxen were lost amongst the thick bush. They were not forthcoming till late in the afternoon, when they took the waggon once more into the middle of the stream, where William and the Kaffir driver between them managed them so well that the disselboom was broken for the third time. It was near sunset, and a heavy storm was coming up. William, who said that getting into the water made him ill, and who hence contented himself by dancing about on the bank and shouting, determined to leave the waggon in the middle of the stream for the night, which, considering that in this country, as in many others, an hour suffices to turn a small stream into a roaring torrent, was a very prudent thing to do. No one objected to it, however, as far as I know, and so the waggon remained. That evening, before going to sleep, I made sundry arrangements in anticipation of the storm that was evi- ently coming up. I put on my mackintosh, spread my waterproof sheet over me, placed a few articles, which I prized, under me, put a candle in my lantern, a box of matches in my pocket, rolled my blankets nicely round me, and then awaited what was to come. I was wakened by a rattling crash of thunder, followed by a series of explosions which seemed as if they must rend something in pieces ; the lightning was terrific, the wind howled round and battered the waggon as if it would over- turn it, the rain poured down in torrents, and I could hear the rush of the rising river. I lit my lamp, with difficulty protecting my match under my mackintosh. The sight was absurd ! The rain was coming intD the waggon like a A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 57 shower-bath, and after forming lakes and pools all round me, was finding its way through the different articles down to and out of the bottom. Many of the men were sleeping under the waggon, and they presently began to become aware of this ; then it was amusing to hear their surprise and disgust. The people in the tent, too, began to rouse up ; altogether it was a lively night. The spec- tacle presented by our party the next morning was most comical, garments of all sorts being hung about on the bushes in a vain effort to dry them (for the day began and remained very showery), whilst their owners wandered about disconsolately. A new disselboom had to be got from a farmhouse at some distance, and it was rather late before the waggon was at last pulled out. The river had risen so much in the night that the water was nearly into it, and the buck-sail having been badly fastened down had blown off, and everything was drenched. We made a short trek that evening, and outspanned just as the sun was setting. Shortly after, the grey- bearded man whom I had met in the cart near to Com- mando, rode up and asked us if he could do anything to help us, as his farm was close by. I asked him if he could get me a horse, or any other conveyance, to take me into Rustemberg. I felt sure that we should have some more mishaps before arriving there, and having been now three days without having been able to change my wet clothes, and obliged to sleep in damp blankets, I was getting tired of it. He said that he could not get me a horse, either to hire, or to buy, or to borrow ; that the horse he rode was a borrowed one ; and that it was very difficult to get horses, owing to the fact of the " horse disease " being so very bad behind the Magaliesberg so bad that 58 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. very few horses ever (( salted," i. e. recovered from tlie disease. He said, however, that he would do his best to get a trap to drive me over to Rustemberg, and that he would let me know in the morning. True to his word, my new acquaintance sent a Kaffir boy early the following morning to show me the way to his farm,, where I was to have breakfast, and to find a cart and horses to take me to Rustemberg. I had managed, by taking a little walk, to find a bower of trees suitable for a dressing-room ; there I carried some water in a gutta percha pail from a neighbouring brook, and was able to make a little toilette ; then putting a few things into my valise, I started with the Kaffir. About a quarter of an hour's walk along a bridle-path took me to a little three-roomed and thatched cottage, built on a grassy slope at the foot of a spur of the Magaliesberg, with luxuriant orchards of orange, lemon, fig, peach, apricot, and quince trees in front of it, whilst a few healthy-looking coffee bushes testified to the mildness of the climate. Inside, the house was dark and comfortless. Its mis- tress, a kind-faced woman of about forty bed-ridden with a painful and chronic disease welcomed me kindly, and we attempted a conversation. She understood a little German, and my knowledge of German enabled me partly to understand her Dutch, so we scraped along. Her husband told me that he had had great difficulty in getting a trap for me. The one I was to have, belonged to the sanctimonious-looking little man I had seen driving my acquaintance. He was a Dopper, i. e. belonged to a very sanctified sect of the Dutch Church. The sleek little man had shuddered with holy horror at the idea of his A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 59 committing the impropriety of driving- alone with, any woman not related to him, neither would his conscience allow him to hire out his vehicle so as to facilitate any such improper action on the part of his neighbour; at last, however, his scruples had been overcome to the extent of consenting to drive me to Rustemberg, provided his neighbour (my new acquaintance) acted chaperon to him. We three, therefore, set forth in the dewy morning through a park-like country. The little Dopper sat in front, and said never a word. Mr. Deckbird, on the con- trary, was very talkative. So was I at first, the relief from the dreadful waggon being so great that I really felt in high spirits ; but gradually it began to dawn on me that my companion was mad, and I confess that I was very glad that the little Dopper was in the front seat during that day's drive. As I say, I believe that man was mad, but he was very kind for all that ; and although I was certainly afraid of him, I shall always remember his kindness with gratitude. We outspanned three times, once near a farmhouse, from whence Mr. Deckbird brought me a basketful of beautiful fruit; once at an- other farmhouse, where the women came out and insisted on my getting down, and where Mr. Deckbird introduced me in Dutch as his second wife, which, considering that I could not say anything to the contrary, owing to not knowing Dutch, although I understood what was said, and had to confine myself to shaking my head vigorously, was not pleasant. The good people all laughed at the joke, and gave me some very good coffee, and milk, and bread, and sat and looked at me. I, in return, looked at them, and once more observed to myself that many of 60 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. these Boers, if dressed up in antique fashion, would look like the models from which Rembrandt and others of the old masters painted. Our third outspann was in sight of pretty, diminutive Rustemberg, and was in the open veldt, near, I think, a quarry. The cause of this outspann was original. "We must outspann here/' said Mr. Deckbird. "I must change my trousers before T go into Rustemberg j I know some people there." And retiring to the quarry in mufti, he reappeared in magnificence. Before we reached the little village I was introduced to a habit common to the Transvaal, and which is not a pleasing feature in the life here. " You will be sure to meet Mr. Lestrange," said my companion. " A charming man ; you will be delighted with him. But you must take care; don't trust him." This was the first time I heard this ; I have heard it now ad nauseam. Mr. A. tells you to beware of Mr. B., he is very nice and all that, but to be on your guard ; Mr. B. says he sees you know Mr. A., that it is all very well to be friends with him (friends !), but that you must not trust him too much ; both Mr. A. and Mr. B. caution you in a friendly spirit against Mr. C., and Mr. C. in the same manner cautions you against them ; and this some- times even when the people who speak thus appear to be on the most intimate terms. A Lady Trader in the Transvaal, 61 CHAPTER VII. THE village of Rustemberg, from which one can see the last place inhabited by white people, and through whose streets numbers of Kaffirs and Kaffir women troop daily, dressed in skins, and adorned with barbaric ornaments, appeared to me to be a sort of Ultima Thule. It had some little shops as stores, and a little prison, and a little post-office, and three little churches for even here the population is large enough for sects to exist ; and it had also numerous rose-hedges bounding its grassy streets, and a missionary station, and a mill. Everything looked as if it were just winking between two sleeps. There was no fort then to suggest that poor little Rustemberg was destined in two years from that time to sustain a length- ened siege, the result of which is, as I write, uncertain. Amongst other things that Rustemberg possessed was a little inn, kept by a big, jolly Dutch woman, a Mrs. Brown, by virtue of her marriage with an Englishman. In this worthy couple's house I spent a month, and if I never see Mrs. Brown again, yet shall I always remember her as the cheeriest, heartiest, most kind-hearted, and sturdiest of housewives. Her heart was open to everybody, whether the body walked on two or four legs. Did she see a half- starved Kaffir dog look in at her kitchen door or crawl 62 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. trembling towards the dresser, it was not " Furtseck/' or " Get out/' that she would cry, but " What a shame to starve that poor thing so ! " and a piece of bread or meat was sure to be offered. Did she see an ox being ill-treated, she would rush out and interfere. The horses in her stable, whether her own or her lodgers', were well cared for ; her oxen sleek, and dire was her anger if she saw marks of heavy stripes on their glossy backs. Her cows all knew her well ; and a bevy of dogs, amongst which was one little spaniel she had rescued from a cruel master, sat round her every morning and at every meal, for her to give to each its portion. Then, as to her own species, she had brought up and portioned one orphan girl, had opened her doors to another, whose mother was dead and whose stepmother was unkind to her, and was talking about the necessity of taking a third because she was so unkindly treated. Her husband was a carpenter ; he left her the principal management of the hotel, but was fond of, and kind to, all her various proteges ; whilst his special favourite was a large torn cat, who always sat by his side at table, and whom Mrs. Brown averred he spoiled by feeding it whilst he was eating himself. My little room was in a row of small chambers, built out- side the hotel but quite close to it, for the accommodation of travellers. The hotel itself was simply a big Boer cottage. It was kept scrupulously clean, and I felt as if in a farmer's family which in fact I was ; it was an hotel in name, but really a farmhouse. There was a gentleman, the doctor of the place, who came there for his meals, and who, strange to say, had known some friends of mine in England intimately during his boyish days ; but there A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. . 63 was seldom any stranger to break the monotony of the hotel routine. \Ye had early coffee in our bedrooms, breakfast at eight, dinner at one, supper at six, and then a chat in the big sitting-room till we went to our bed- rooms. Often visitors for Mrs. Brown would drop in of an evening, and then I heard Dutch talked. Mrs. Brown could not speak English at all perfectly, and was delighted to hear that I wanted to learn Dutch ; she was, however, a dangerous preceptress, for she would teach me all sorts of phrases, assuring me that their signification was so and so, and then, upon nay repeating them innocently, her ringing laugh and the wink she would give, showed me that she had been putting me up to say something very different from what I thought. Of course I soon made friends with her four-footed pets ; and the little dog " Gip/' which she had taken in compassion, got so fond of me that she made it a present to me. I remember one day we passed the afternoon in washing all the dogs in a big tub, and putting them to bed afterwards, rolled up in counterpanes like babies. But with all Mrs. Brown's kindness and merriment the time at Rustemberg was very trying. On arriving there I soon found that what I had suspected for a long time was only too true. The scheme about the farm was a snare and a delusion; both the men who came out to work on it, and I, who had counted upon getting instruction there, had been utterly deceived. The party arrived some days after I did, and it was a week or so before the whole affair was quite shown up ; but when it was so, two or three of the men, and Jimmy, went on to the farm, such as it was, the rest went as volunteers, and I had to shift for myself. 64 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. It was evident that I could do nothing in the farming line until I could understand and speak the Boer tongue ; evident also that unless I were to earn money somehow, my small stock would rapidly dwindle to next to nothing, for living at an hotel, or boarding, in the Transvaal, is fright- fully expensive. In this dilemma I was helped by Mr. Richardson, the clergyman of Rustemberg, to whom I had brought a letter of introduction from the then rector of Pretoria. He asked me if I would go as a governess in a farmer's family ; and on my answering in the affirmative, he said he would write to an English Africander farmer, who had two young daughters whom he was anxious to educate well. This farmer's name was Higgins, he told me, and his farm was about thirty-five miles from Rustemberg, on the southern slope of the Magaliesberg. From all who spoke of Mr. Higgins I heard a good account of himself and his family; and his house, I was told, was the finest farmhouse in the Transvaal. The post only goes out once a week from Rnstemberg, and hence there was some delay before Mr. Higgins's reply came. It was to the effect that he would come in to fetch me as soon as he could. My engagement was that I was to be paid five pounds a month, with washing, and that I might take other pupils besides Mr. Higgins' s two daughters at any terms I chose to make, while Mr. Higgins undertook to give any such pupils their dinner. Several days passed, and I neither heard nor saw any- thing of Mr. Higgins. I used to pass my day in writing a story, without which amusement I should have collapsed under the combined heat, dulness, and anxiety of that time at Rustemberg; but it is wonderful how one can A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 65 forget oneself and one's own troubles in inventing the joys and woes of creatures of one's imagination ! I used to sit up late writing, and so soon as day broke get up to write again. Little Gip was my constant companion now. He would not remain an instant away from me, and many a time his little paw scratching my dress would stop my pen, and call upon me to take the small beast up and give it the caress it wanted ; for Gip never cared for being fed, but only for being coaxed and played with. He was a very delicate little dog, having had his constitution undermined, Mrs. Brown told me, by his former owner's cruelty, and was the victim of a species of St. Vitus's Dance, which at times made him go through the queerest contortions. One beautiful evening, after a very hot day, I was standing at the door of my little room, enjoying the cool air, and admiring two fine grey horses that were cropping the grass in the street, watched by a mischievous-looking Kaffir boy of about nine. They were evidently fresh arrivals, for I had not seen them before. While I was standing thus and chatting to Mrs. Brown's protege, a fine-looking man, dressed in a riding-suit, with high boots and a wide-a-wake hat, and with a sunburnt honest face, merry blue eyes, and a fine reddish-brown beard, sprang up the steps that led to my little door, and touching his hat said, " Mrs. Heckford, I think ; I'm Higgins. I came while you were out," he went on ; " those are my horses/' pointing to the animals I had been admiring. We settled everything in five minutes. I told Mr. Higgins that he might inquire about me from Mr. Richardson, who would be able to tell him who I was, and what were my ante- cedents ; but he said it was of no use, that he was quite F 66 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. satisfied with what he had seen and heard of me, and only wanted to know when I could start. I said I should be ready to start early next morning ; and so my stay in little Kustemberg, and under the friendly roof of Mr. and Mrs. Brown, came to an end. A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 67 CHAPTER VIII. EARLY the next morning I packed all the things I could into the tax-cart with a canvas hood to it which was to convey me to my new home, the farm " Surprise ;" my heavy luggage I had to leave behind in Mrs. Brown's charge. Then after breakfast, and amidst much shaking of hands and many good wishes, I got into the cart, climbed on to the back seat Mr. Higgins and the mischievous- looking Kaffir imp jumped up in front little Gip was lifted up to me, and Mr. Higgins having said I might take him, I joyfully tucked him under my arm and I was launched into my new life. ^ That asking whether I might take my dog seemed like the first plunge into a cold bath on a frosty morning ; it was part of the part I had to play now, and I wondered how I should play it. I had always pitied governesses, and had also always objected to be an object of pity my- self, even to myself. I never could see the use of self- commiseration, which to some seems to be so delectable. How I wondered what Mrs. Higgins would be like, what my pupils would be like, what the whole life would be like, and what sort of a governess I should make, as we bowled along the pretty road, over Oliphants-nek, and then along the southern side of the picturesque Hagalies- p 2 68 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. berg once more, into the long valley, up and down which I had looked on the day of our breaking the disselboom a little outside of Pretoria, but distant about sixty miles from the spot. Mr. Higgins in the meantime chatted away pleasantly. He was not an educated man, as he said him- self, but he was evidently a very good fellow. He said his children were respectively eleven and nine, the name of the elder was Augusta, of the younger Sarah. He said they had had no teaching to speak of, but that their mother was very anxious they should have good schooling. Then he told me the names of the two greys that were drawing the cart were Sam and Dick, that they were brothers, and that he had another horse, a fine brown horse, called Free State, or, as a pet name, Baby; and then he talked about other horses he had had, and about a little dog his youngest daughter had. We outspanned twice, and twice stopped for Mr. Higgins to pay a little visit at farms we passed, and on each occasion he piled my lap and filled his pockets and handkerchief with peaches. At last, just as the sun was setting, and as we were turning round a spur of the hill all wooded with thorn-trees, Mr. Higgins said, " Now you'll see the house;" and in .a few minutes I saw a good-sized red-brick house with a verandah, standing in the middle of the grassy slope, the wooded sides of the mountain and its high kranz rising behind it, an orchard of large fruit- trees and a fine stretch of cultivated land lying below it, and a background of mountain range and wooded slope running down into the long valley beneath it. At the same moment Mr. Higgins said, "There are Mrs. Higgins and the children ;" and I saw two tall black - rcbed figures and one small one (the family were in A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 69 mourning for the youngest child), and a little black and white dog, coining to meet the cart. It was alongside of them in a minute ; and Mr. Higgins jumping out, little Sarah was lifted up and took the reins, whilst her dog Fido, who jumped up with her, went through a series of frantic antics ending by nearly tumbling out, all meant for demonstrations of joy at her master's return. Let me introduce my employer's wife and children. Mrs. Higgins was a very tall, fine-looking woman, with a stately grace about her movements and manners; she talked bad grammar, and misplaced her " h's," but I felt at and from the first that I was in the presence of a lady. Augusta, a child of eleven, was as tall as most girls of fifteen, and looked almost grown up. Slight, with beautiful fine brown hair hanging over her shoulders and down to her waist, with soft almond-shaped blue eyes fringed by long dark lashes and over-arched by pencilled eyebrows, with a sweet but haughty little mouth, and with a white and rose-pink complexion, with long, slender, refined hands too, I thought I had rarely seen such a lovely girl. Everything about her breathed of refinement and indolence; you would have sworn she had been bred in some luxurious drawing-room, and waited on by obsequious servants. Little Sarah was a contrast to her sister. Small for her age, and with a baby chubbiness still clinging to her ; with mischief, wilfulness, and bright intelligence sparkling in her eyes and ringing in her voice ; with an expression ever changing, with still unformed features, and with a shock of wild- looking hair hanging about her face, in some ways she reminded me of an unbroken Shetland pony, and in my mind I installed her as my pet. 70 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. We were soon at the front of the house a house not after the Boer model, but built on Mr. Higgins's own plan. A raised " stoop/' or nagged pathway in front, was covered by an iron verandah, and ended in two small rooms, one used as a visitors' room, the other as a lumber room. Three doors, two of them half glass, and two windows, opened on the stoop, besides the half-glass doors of the end rooms. The two half-glass doors led into rooms which were respectively my bedroom and the school-room. The centre door opened into a passage which led to the dining-room, a long room at the back, with the kitchen and a pantry at one side, and a big store-room at the other, the two former opening into it, the latter having to be entered by a side door outside. Two doors opened into the passage besides the dining- room door at the end of it, leading to side rooms, one the sleeping-room of the family, the other the drawing- room, from which a side door led to my bedroom. The school-room had no door but the one on the stoop. There was a fireplace in the drawing-room and kitchen only. I was taken first into my bedroom, a very pleasant one, large and lofty, with a canvas ceiling under the rafters, papered walls, large strips of a bright coloured carpet on the floor, 'and a comfortable-looking French bed with white hangings, besides the other furniture of a bedroom in it. From a side window which opened like a double door there was a pretty view of part of the crest and of a wooded spur of the Magaliesberg, and then one looked over undulations in part studded with trees, and across the valley to the distant range of Witt- waters Randt. There was a big old thorn-tree close by, under which were two little mounds, the graves of two little children A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 71 the Higginses had lost; and at a little distance, jnst round the turn of a rose hedge, which here bound the culti- vated land, a Kaffir house could be seen, where farm- servants lived ; while between the tree and my window was a sort of dust-hole a hollow place whe re refuse was thrown the outside door of the kitchen being close to it. This place was half overgrown with stramonium, a big bush-like plant, with a coarse but not ugly flower. A little beaten path led from the kitchen door up to the cattle and sheep-kraal, an enclosure made of bushes of thorn on the side of the hill, and well sheltered from cold winds by the spur of the mountain. It was in all a very pretty look-out. We had supper in the dining-room, and then we went to the drawing-room a prettily-furnished apartment, with a fairly good piano, and a nice harmonium in it. I got the children to play on the former. They performed a duet from ear for they did not know their notes and kept exact time. Then I was asked to play. I had no music with me, the little I had, having been left behind with my heavy luggage, and I had not touched a piano for months, nor practised on one for years. They parti- cularly wanted to hear me play a piece called " The Battle of Waterloo." It was one of those pieces that sound more difficult than they are, and I read it easily enough. Then followed " Shells of Ocean " with varia- tions, and " Home, Sweet Home," and some others with variations, all arrangements new to me, but with which I did my best. It was very encouraging to hear that I gave great satisfaction I was so dreadfully afraid I should not ; but it was evident that the pleasure caused by my playing was genuine. Then an old copy of the 72 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. entire opera of " Norma " was brought out. The family did not much care for ' ' Norma ;" but, oh ! how strange it did seem to listen to that well-known music, which carried one back to the gorgeous Italian opera, and recalled faces and voices some of them passed away, some of them never probably to be seen or heard again in that little drawing-room of the farmhouse on the Maga- liesberg, with listeners around to whom the very names that were household words to me, were utterly unknown ! Life is a wonderful romance for many of us. It never struck me more forcibly that it had been so, and was still for me, than on that evening, when, having bid the family good-night, and having been kissed by the children with heartiness that showed they were prepared to like me, I stood for a while at the open window, with the dark outline of the mountains before my material eyes, but with visions of all that had passed since I had first listened to " Casta Diva," shutting out the present, and substituting for a short while scenes widely different. Before I went to sleep, however, the present reasserted itself in the shape of Gip. Gip was determined to sleep with his little head touching my shoulder. He had not been accustomed to do so, but I suppose he felt strange in the new house, and wanted a sense of protection. At any rate he was determined on this point. It was useless putting him off the bed; and he would patter on the floor, and scratch at the side of the bed, and make little springs, and whine in a manner that rendered sleep impossible, and I felt that sleep was necessary ; so at last I took him up and let him have his own way, although I wondered in my mind what Mrs. Higgins would think of a dog sleeping on her nice white counterpane. A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 73 CHAPTER IX. I WOKE early the next morning, and took a survey of my new abode, and a stroll towards a wooded spur of the mountain, where I was told Mr. Higgins's father and mother and two young sisters lived, in a little cottage. The road, if road it could be called, passed along the top of some upper cultivated lands, on which a fine crop of Indian corn was standing, and which were shut in partly by a low stone wall, partly by a rose hedge at the top and sides ; whilst an orchard of big orange, lemon, peach, almond, apricot, and fig-trees separated these, the upper lands, from the lower lands, which were much larger. At the bottom of the upper lands stood an old thatched house, used as a stable and outhouse, with two enormous syringa- trees overshadowing it. This was the oldest house in the Transvaal, and had been built by old Potchieter, who was afterwards made mincemeat of by the Kaffirs in days not indeed far distant, but when elephants might be shot on the place where Mr. Higgins's house now stood, and when the cultivated valley beneath me was still covered with bush. A little farther on the road passed over a broad stone bulwark, which served to dam up a rivulet, which, gushing out of the precipitous crown of the mountain, found its way down its side through a 74 -A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. ravine overarched by trees, and carpeted with ferns, to a place at which it was compelled to form a big pond or dam. From this dam as much or as little water as was requisite could be let out, by means of two wooden pipes, to water the lands, sluits (or what are here called furrows) having been made on purpose to convey it to different parts. From these furrows it had to be let on to the lands by opening them here and there with the spade, and so directing the various little streams that, without touching each other, they yet wet all the ground. This process is called " letting water," and is a very important one in this dry country, also a very troublesome and tedious one. The stream of water and the dam are the first things to be looked to in buying a farm out here, also their relative position to the ground to be culti- vated. The dam has frequently to be made by the pur- chaser, then he must be careful to see that he can make one of sufficient size above what he means to be his lands. From the dam the road took me over a little rise, on which some Kaffir houses were built, and then down towards the valley. It was a pretty walk. As I was returning I observed that the house had a loft, but no outbuildings of any kind. It is the same with all the best farmhouses in the Transvaal. They are comfort- able in many ways, but they lack what we consider the commonest conveniences of a dwelling; and this applies to some even of the houses on the outskirts of Pretoria. The children came to meet me near the dam, and we went in to breakfast. This was Friday 3 and Mr. Higgins A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 75 said I had better take it easy, and not begin lessons till Monday. My life now seemed settled for a time. I was to give the children what is called a good English educa- tion, and to teach them to play the piano, to draw, and to sing. Foreign languages are not much cared for in Africa. Besides Augusta and Sarah, it was arranged that I was to have Mr. Higgins's two sisters Alice, a girl of sixteen, and Ada, who was thirteen as pupils. Their mother, a pleasant-looking old lady, came over from her cottage, and made the arrangement with me. Alice, a small, plump, and pretty girl, with something very sweet and yet determined in her look, and with activity stamped on her every movement, was engaged to be married to a young man who was half farmer and half trader. Ada, almost but not quite so tall as Augusta, was yet a tall girl for her age. She was slight and graceful, with hands as delicate as those of her niece. With a pretty impertinent nose, arched eyebrows, and eyes that could coax you, or calmly overlook you, according to the mood of their pretty owner, with a scornfully-turned upper lip, and a pouting under one very rosy, and which could part into a delightful smile when she was pleased, or wanted to please with a prettily disdainful languor in all her movements (except, by the way, when she went in for a romp, at which she excelled), Miss Ada Higgins looked like a little princess in disguise. Like her niece, she had masses of brown hair hanging from her well-set- on head, but her hair was even heavier in its flow than Augusta's. I had to begin with the very simplest lessons. Even Alice had to learn to spell monosyllables, and be / 6 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. taught the meaning of words which a child of eight in England would laugh at you for asking her to explain. They had no idea of the points of the compass, and had never heard of an article; but they were on the whole very good pupils, and only Sarah was wilful and idle at times, making up for this afterwards by the greatest attention and intelligent comprehension. It was a terrible trial to this small girl to be kept at lessons she who, up to the time I came, had been allowed to run wild, and romp all day with the Kaffir children on the property. Many an excuse would she make to escape from the school-room, and forthwith perform a dance with Maikee or Vittaree, or have a sparring-match with Fiervaree, the Kaffir imp who was supposed to look after Sam and Dick. Many a day would she pretend to be ill until she persuaded her mamma to let her off school, and then set to, with gleeful enjoyment, to help Sannee, the Kaffir girl who assisted in the housework, to clean the pots and pans ; or turning up her sleeves, and tying her doll on behind her back as the Kaffir mothers tie their babies when at work, she would get a pailful of cow-dung and water, and proceed to smear the floor cf the little lumber-room with it, pre- tending that it was her house. This smearing operation, unpleasant to English ears, is a necessary part of house- keeping here, where most of the floors are made of mud or rather, of a mixture of ant-heap and water, stamped and levelled down, and where, without the aid of cow- dung, one would be stifled with dust and eaten alive by fleas. The life was monotonous, but not unpleasant. Break- fast at between seven and eight, then lessons till one (dinner-time), then lessons again till about five, when A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 77 there was afternoon tea, then supper at about seven, a chat or a little music, and to bed. I worked my pupils pretty hard, but I tried to make them fond of me, and I think I succeeded. I certainly became fond of them, but little Sarah was always my pet, though I used to make her ciy about four days out of the seven. There was a great difficulty in getting books, &c., for them, Pretoria, the nearest town, being forty miles distant, and it was often difficult to explain common things to them, owing to their experience being so very small. It is not easy to convey the idea of a bridge even, to a child who has never seen any nearer approach to it than the wall of a dam with a road over it, or a piece of plank stretched across a furrow ; or to convey the idea of a steam-engine, or a steamboat, to one who has never seen anything of the sort; or to create an idea of a large town in one who looks upon a tiny village as a very imposing place. However, all things considered, the children got on well, and their parents were satisfied. Mr. Higgins let me ride " Free State " occasionally, on one occasion taking me to a small Kaffir kraal that was on his pro- perty, where I went into the neat huts and admired the cement-like mud floors. The Kaffirs living in the kraal were what is called raw Kaffirs, the men indeed being in some sort clothed in old European garments, but the women wearing skins, and the children being naked. Mr. Higgins, as landlord, had the right to their services for taking the crops off the land, without paying them; and also of commanding their services at other times, for the wage of a shilling a day, at most, to the men, and of something much less to the boys. He also had the right to order the women to weed 78 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. or to scoffle, as it is called here, giving them a basket of peaches in return, during the fruit season, or without pay- ment if there was no fruit. Besides these, he had several families of what are called Urlains, or civilized Kaffirs, living in mud houses on his property. These families dressed like Europeans, and had food like Europeans, even to the drinking of early coffee. They also went to school to the missionary station at Eustemberg periodi- cally, and learned a little reading and singing of hymns. I don't think the school did them much good. I heard of one Kaffir woman saying, that when she came back from school and had been made a Christian, she would sit on a chair and eat with a knife and fork, and not let the raw Kaffirs eat with her, for that then she would be better than they. Sannee, the girl who helped in the house, after her return from school refused to help her mistress, who was very ill at the time, saying that the missionary had told her that she must not work for some months, only study. Mr. Higgins was a very kind, indulgent master, partly from good nature, partly from indolence. He could get Kaffirs to come to squat on his farm when other farmers could not get any ; but then they squatted and did little else, except when a sudden fancy to do a little work seized them. I also rode to old Mr. Higgins's little cottage, a small structure stuck on a very picturesque spur of the moun- tain, with a big wild fig-tree in front of it. It was simply a mud and stone cabin, with the bare rafters and thatch showing overhead, its one long room divided into three by rude canvas partitions, without a trace of paper on A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 79 the walls, and with planks supported on the rafters doing duty as shelves. Outside, a straw house did duty as out- house, stable, cow-house, or anything else, a conical straw hut, with a hole at the top, was the kitchen, and another small straw structure close to the sheep kraal served for a fowl-house. There was an old piano, how- ever, in this funny little building, and on it Alice and Ada practised their music. Old Mrs. Higgins kept no servant ; she and Alice cleaned the house, cooked, washed in a washing machine, ironed, and made the dresses of the family. Ada, the princess, did nothing, not even mend her own clothes. How Alice managed to do the work she did and learn her lessons I don't know, but she did manage it. There were no windows to this odd little building, only square holes in the wall, with movable frames stretched over with calico fitted to them, and there was no chimney. Old Mr. Higgins, who had been a great hunter when younger, was now a victim to chronic bron- chitis of a very bad type, and how he managed to live in that cabin I do not know. He had not even the conve- nience of an armchair. He was a small grey-bearded man, much bent, but with a keen look about the eyes that spoke of his hunting days, and with a still easy seat in the saddle a thorough old gentleman too in all his ways and thoughts, and with a fund of queerly assorted information. Often he has startled me by the things he knew of, having been all his life a great reader, and given to buying books in lots on sales. Mrs. Higgins the younger did the principal part of her housework herself, and wonderful was the amount of 8o A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. needlework, or rather machinework, she would get through in the day besides; yet she never seemed in a fuss or a hurry, never spoke loudly or crossly, but was always stately and ladylike, even with her dress turned up, her arms bared, and a broom in her hand. Augusta, like Ada, did nothing but look ornamental. This was what the two girls were meant for by nature, and they could not, I believe, be useful if they tried ; but they didn't try. Little Sarah was already a famous house- keeper, but she scolded the servants well. There was a wonderful old Hottentot maid, " Khrid," the second wife of a certain Jonas who squatted on the farm a good sort of creature, who was very helpful in the house, and of whom Sarah was a special pet and perse- cutor. Sometimes she would spring on the woman's back, and tightening her legs round her waist, pinch her and beat her in fun it is true, but pretty hard for all that until the old woman would lie down and roll, to get her off. In this family I was treated not like a governess, but like a welcome guest. The best of everything was at my disposal without my asking for or even thinking of having it. Whatever there was unavoidably rough in the life, Mrs. Higgins did her best to shelter me from. A stranger would, I am sure, have thought that I was there teaching the children as a friend, not as one paid for it. When poor little Gip got ill and became troublesomely dirty at night, Mrs. Higgins expostulated with me for having cleaned and washed up the things myself; and when my poor little dog died, she got a Kaffir to dig a grave for it, and in no way objected to lessons being interrupted to attend to it before its death, or to see it A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 8 1 buried afterwards. I was dreadfully sorry for the little dog that had beeu so fond of me when I was a strauger in the land, and it was true kindness to me to indulge me as she did. But it was not to me alone that she showed tact and delicacy of feeling. It was the same with even a raw Kaffir. The true politeness of quick sympathy and unselfishness, was always there, for the benefit of any one coming within her sphere of influence. It must be remembered that all this time the Boer scare was going on. Horrible tales used to be told at meal-times and in the evening as to what the Boers meant to do to the English, or any of the Africanders who held with the English ; and the Higgiuses were very loyal. There was even talk of its being as well for the family to go into the Free State. This being the case, I began to feel unhappy about Jimmy, who was away on a farm with three or four other English. This farm was about thirty miles from Surprise, and I had no horse or any other means of conveyance to take me to him. I therefore began to be very anxious to buy a horse, but it was not easy to get one. The scare had for a time subsided, when one day, while I was in the schoolroom, one of the children cried out, " Oh ! there is Uncle Walter," and of course they all wanted to go out to see Uncle Walter an unmarried uncle who, with a bachelor brother, kept a store at Marico. I remained in the schoolroom. Presently Mr. Higgins called me, and said he wanted me to meet his brother. I went out, and saw a fine-looking man standing by the side of a handsome dun horse, and with another horse standing close to him with a rein in its mouth for leading it by. G 82 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. " That's a nice little horse/' said Mr. Higgins ; " what do you think of it ? " " It does not look bad," I said, not much prepossessed by the lean animal with a draggly tail, that I was looking down on from the stoop. " Do you think it would suit you ? " he asked. I looked closer at it then. It was a good horse at all points, with a little head, taper neck, and fine ears, which spoke of good blood, better than generally seen. It had been roughly treated, evidently, not over well fed, and ridden hard, and was very dirty, but that time would cure. It was a light-red roan what is here called a red grey with white stockings, a white streak down its face, and chestnut mane and tail. The eyes were full, but a little mischievous-looking, in spite of the otherwise very mild appearance of the creature. " I think it might/' I replied, " if the price be not high." " Would you give twenty pounds ? " asked Mr. Higgins. " Yes, but not more/' I answered. He inquired of his brother whether the horse, which was his, and which he had had for some time, was sound and fit for a lady to ride. He said it was so ; and the bargain being struck, my new acquisition, " Eclipse," the grandson of a famous old colony racer, and himself the winner of two races in the colony, was turned loose to graze, whilst Walter Higgins rode off on his handsome dun a horse whom everybody said was thoroughly " salted," and for whom he had refused sixty pounds, but who died a few days after, it was said from " horse sickness/' but I rather fancy from the bots. A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 83 Not long after, a neighbour came in. " Have you bought that red-grey horse ?" he asked. " Yes." ' f Are you a very good horsewoman ? " "No." " Then take care ; he'll break your neck. Why, he bucked Walter Higgins off him and Arthur Sturton and he nearly threw me, only I jumped off. I never saw a horse buck so cleverly as he does." This was pleasant, the more so as before a day was over I heard further confirmation of it. However, the thing was done, and I had to make the best of it. Mr. Higgins allowed me forage for my animal, and I groomed him, fed him, and bedded him up myself. No hand but mine touched him. He was stabled in the stable with Dick, Sam, and Freestate, and I now saw how the Kaffir boys who had charge of these horses neglected them. Anticipating buying a horse, I had brought all the articles necessary for one with me, and Eclipse soon showed his change of owners. At first he was trouble- some to groom, but he soon got accustomed to it and fond of me, nor, though a very lively horse, did he ever attempt more than a little playful jump with me ; but his character was bad. The Dutch, farmers seeing me ride him would exclaim ; and even men who had ridden him could never account for the change in him, although it was easily enough accounted for. Eclipse knew as well as most horses how to distinguish between a master who treated him well and never punished him except when he deserved it, and one who neglected him and spurred him to make him show off. I certainly felt much happier after getting my horse, a 2 84 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. although I had to be up early to groom him, and had trouble about his bedding; and although I had no time to ride much for it is not good during the summer months here to have a horse out of the stable early in the morning or late in the evening and I was occupied during the day on weekdays. Still many a ride I had, generally with one of the children with me on Dick, and I felt now that if there were danger I could get hold of Jimmy. Some little time after I got Eclipse about the begin- ning of March it was decided that we should all go over to visit two married brothers of Mr. Higgins (James and John), who had a farm and kept a store behind the Witt-waters Randt, about twelve miles from Surprise. We started early, Mr. and Mrs. Higgins and little Sarah in the cart, Alice on a pony borrowed from her brother-in-law, Arthur Sturton, and Augusta on Free- state. I, of course, rode Eclipse. In parts the road was pretty, particularly at a point not far from our destination, where we saw several monkeys sitting on a low kranz above us. Here we had to ford a river three times, owing to its rapid turns. We passed several farm- houses, and at last came to the one we were to stop at. It was not so nicely arranged a house as Surprise, being, in fact, two houses tacked together. There were several little children playing about, and the hosts were very hospitable and kind to me. Each of the wives had a piano, on which I played in the evening, and I slept on a comfortable bed made up on the sofa in one of the sitting-rooms. Here, too, the mistresses had to do almost all the housework, the Kaffir servants being either too lazy or too stupid. A Lady Trader in the Transvaal, 85 The Boer scare now set in again. Plans used to be discussed as to what was to be done in case of an attack, and at last even Mr. Higgins, who generally took things quietly, began to look serious, and to check me when I laughed at the idea of danger for I thought there was too much talk for anything to come of it. One day a neighbour rode up to say that there was a Kaffir com- mando marching on Pretoria, that a son of Cetewayo had ridden through the valley and over the mountain to Rus- temberg the night before that he had told the farmers from whom he had commanded a horse and money, that a great outbreak of the Kaffirs was close at hand, and that all who did not wish to be murdered had best go into lagers. The veldt-cornet had ridden late at night to warn some people in his district ; all was authenticated beautifully. Surprise was alarmed : no shame for it, for Pretoria trembled in its shoes at the same rumour. I can't say that I felt frightened, but then it is difficult for any one accustomed to profound peace, and a civilized country, to bring his mind to realize the possibility of a sudden outbreak of savages. The Higginses knew what it was from practical experience, old Mrs. Higgins having had to fly with a child under one arm, and a money-box under the other, alongside of her husband, who was laden with another child and the powder- bag. My employer had seen his parents' property swept away more than once in the old colony by Kaffirs, and hence it is no wonder that he felt more concern than I. It was the most absurd hoax that ever was practised, and the Kaffir who personated Cetewayo's son, and ordered the terrified Boers to give him horses and money must have had a laugh at the success of his piece of fun. Their 86 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. having obeyed the dictates of a half tipsy Kaffir was a sore point with the Boers afterwards, and this absurd escapade did not serve to raise my opinion of their courage. But hardly had this blown over, than the Boer scare broke out again. Mr. Higgins wanted to take loads down to Xatal, and ride transport up transport was very high then but waited and waited for the Beeinkotnmste, which was then sitting, to break up. Terrible threats were current as to what was to happen to the dwellers on out- standing farms, if the demands of the committee were not listened to, still worse was it to go with us if the English Government attempted to lay hands on the leaders. Time went by, and at last Mr. Higgins said he could wait no longer, or that he should have too cold weather on his return journey for the oxen ; so he loaded a big pistol for his wife, and hung it up in the hall, told her she must do the best she could in case of any disturbance, and on a fine April morning he started off the waggons loaded with wool-bags, and prepared to follow them on horse- back. Great had been the preparations for starting the waggons, biscuits having to be baked for the road and other provisions provided. A Mr. King, a small farmer and a great friend of Mr. Higgins, went with the waggons, he came to breakfast before he started, and a starved- looking rough black and white terrier with big beseech- ing eyes all covered by his long hair came with him. The dog did not belong to him, but was loafing about, and came to Surprise for something to do, I suppose. We all turned out to see the waggons start. The one with a splendid span of eighteen black oxen in it their sleek skins shining in the sun, and with their driver, a Kaffir called Saul, alongside, looking proud of his beasts, and A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 87 glad of the change made a great impression on me, and I said to myself, " I will never go down to the coast till I can go with such a span as that." Soon after Mr. Higgins saddled up, and bidding us good-bye, took a short cut after the waggons. We all felt very flat as the last flick of Freestate's tail was seen through the long grass ; how I did envy Mr. Higgins to be sure, but we soon settled down, and I began to like being alone with Mrs. Higgins and the children. The rough black and white dog stayed behind, and in process of time came to be my dog, and developed into a very pretty playful little animal, up to any amount of fun, and a good watch-dog, but with a terror of being lost or stolen from me. He would often go off visiting on his own account, but his dread of being taken hold of by any one strange, and the way he would struggle and bite, were amusing; a terrible dog for fighting too was this Little animal, whom we christened " Rough." Winter was now beginning, and though I regretted the summer in some ways, I was glad it was gone; for the dreaded " horse-sickness " goes with it. It is strange that no one has ever found out exactly what the " horse- sickness " is ; the only thing certain about it is that horses that eat the grass after the sun is set, or before the dew is off, are more liable to it than others. Opinions vary as to whether mere exposure to the night air affects horses in the matter. It is averred that horses that have once had the " horse-sickness " rarely have it again, and if they do get it, have it very mildly ; one is told many other things regarding this curious disease, but authori- ties disagree. I believe that numbers of horses are said to die of " horse-sickness " when in reality they die of 88 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. bots and of neglect. In this country, where horses are so seldom kept decently clean, the bots make terrible ravages amongst them. I have frequently been told, and that, too, by people who ought to have known better, that it was impossible to clean the bot-eggs off horses that were roughing it in the veldt, and it stands to reason that if the eggs are left on the animals for them to lick off, they will soon be full of bots. I speak now of horses that are ridden. In the case of a herd of mares and colts, it would of course be impossible to prevent harm, grooming in such cases being out of the question. There are two species of disease called "horse-sick- ness," one of them is also called " Dick-kop," or " thick- head" sickness. They both come on very suddenly. In the case of simple " horse- sickness," the horse perhaps appears well, and eats and works well, when suddenly it begins to pant and blow, gives a short hacking cough, then a discharge comes from the nose, and the animal seems choked with mucus which it cannot expel. Its distress is very great, and in the majority of cases, death supervenes quickly. In the case of the " thick-head " variety, the head begins to swell first in those hollows over the eyes, which, probably, even my unhorsy readers will have remarked, and soon the entire head is enor- mously swollen, and the animal appears to die from suffocation. In both cases there is high fever. No satis- factory cure for either disease has yet been discovered, but even were a cure known, I doubt whether it would be of much avail in the majority of cases, for it would have to be accompanied by more " sick-nursing " than is generally practicable whether with man or beast in A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 89 tliis rough country. The great thing, therefore, is, if possible, to prevent a horse from getting the disease, and I was as careful about Eclipse not being exposed to the early or late air as a mother with a delicate baby. 9O A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. CHAPTER X. NOT long after Mr. Higgins's departure we were all startled one day by Arthur Sturton's riding up from his farm in the valley to tell us that a neighbouring farmer an English Africander had just come back from Pretoria, and had brought the news that Sir Bartle Frere had met the Committee of the Boers that there had been much angry discussion, and that at last the Boers had leapt from their seats, overturning the chairs and crying, " War ! war ! We give you notice that we will march on Pretoria to-morrow." He had told Arthur Sturton that every waggon was being pressed into Govern- ment service, and that his own had been seized ; so that but for a chance he should have had to walk all the way from Pretoria, whither he had gone with a load. Arthur Sturton said that he had sent a Kaffir to his father's farm (which is half-way between Surprise and Pre- toria), there to wait for further intelligence; Moyplas, as it is called, being on the high-road, and any one coming from Pretoria being likely to call there. He said that when the Kaffir returned he would send news to us. Mrs. Higgins and I held a council of war on the verandah that afternoon, and it was resolved that if the A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 9 r Boers came to Surprise, we would receive them civilly, but when we saw them coming, we would put the girls into the bedroom and lock it. The invaders were to be allowed to take what they liked, but if they wanted to enter that room we would first expostulate, saying we had put the girls in there to prevent their being more frightened than necessary, and that if the men insisted on forcing an entrance, we would use our pistols and knives ; also that we would do the same if they attempted any liberties with either of us. Mrs. Higgins had told me that many of the Boers around had said that they would not kill the women of their enemies ; but that they would strip them, and make laughing-stocks of them. Two days passed, and we heard nothing ; the third morning, very early, I was half awake, when I heard what sounded like a very distant cannon-shot. I thought sleepily, " I suppose that is at Pretoria," but roused up when I heard a second and similar sound. I meant to lie awake, but sleepiness overcame me, and I was just dropping off, when I heard a third sound of the same character, after which I went fast asleep. In the morn- ing, however, I told what I fancied at breakfast, and proposed that in the afternoon I should ride down to the valley in search of news. When Alice heard that I was going, she said she would go too. We did get news of rather a surprising character, to the effect that all the inventive young farmer had narrated was pure fiction. My heavy guns have been a laugh against me ever since ! We really felt quite dull after the Boer excitement was over ; of the story we had heard, so much alone was 92 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. true that the Beeinkommste had broken up after Sir Bartle Frere met the Committee. It seemed to me quite stupid to settle down to common-place life again, after talking of pistols and knives ; and I know the children had the same feeling in a different way. They quite enjoyed the Boer scare, and once Ada dressed herself in my mackintosh, and girding on my belt with knife and pistol, blackening her eyebrows, and putting on a cork moustache, she gave the Kaffirs in the kitchen a fine start. Mrs. Higgins and I were still sitting at the tea- table talking after tea, when we heard a violent knocking at the back door of the kitchen; Sannee, the maid, opened it rather reluctantly, being dreadfully afraid of the Boers, when a gruff voice exclaimed, " Var is Bob Higgins ? " and presented a pistol in her face. Sannee and two little Kaffir children uttered a succes- sion of unearthly yells, and rushed into the dining- room, where they clung to Mrs. Higgins's dress, hiding their faces, whilst the Boer dashed past, pistol in hand, to search the rooms. We had a good laugh, and Ada was delighted at the success of her scheme. Winter now came on in earnest, and soon great grass fires were to be seen every evening on the opposite randt. One day Mrs. Higgins came into the school- room and said she smelt that there was a fire coming our way across the Magaliesberg, and that she had sent some Kaffirs to see. It did not, however, come close, greatly to my relief. In the beginning of June, Mr. Higgins came home. For days before, the children, Mrs. Higgins, and the Kaffirs had been on the look-out for him, and at last a A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 93 Kaffir ran in just as we finished dinner, to say that the "boss" was coming. We all went quickly out on the stoop, and saw a mounted Kaffir-boy with a led horse, and Mr. Higgins with another led horse, coming up the short way from the valley. Of course there was great excitement. The new horses were two handsome young black stallions (brothers), for whom Mr. Higgins had exchanged a farm in the Bush- veldt, and a bay pony for old Mr. Higgins. Freestate had come, too, but so changed that none of us knew him at first. Eclipse was grazing close by as Mr. Higgins dismounted, and I re- member his first remark to me : " Eclipse is looking well. I see you have kept him clear of bot's eggs " for Mr. Higgms had asserted his conviction that I should not do so. I had already remarked that his horses were thickly covered with them. I had forgotten to say that during Mr. Higgins' absence, Mrs. Higgins had kindly sent in a waggon to Rustemberg for my heavy luggage, and had allowed it also to call at the farm where Jimmy was, to bring him over to Surprise, with whatever luggage he had the whole affair of the farm, &c., having come to complete squash and Arthur Sturton having offered to take him on his farm, where he could learn and make himself useful, in return for his board and lodging. A few days after Mr. Higgins's arrival, he rode to Pretoria, and on his return rather late in the evening, he said he did not know what was the matter with Free- state; he had seemed so tired on the road. Mrs. Higgins and I were alone when he came in ; all the girls and Harriet Sturton, who was paying them a visit, having gone off on horseback and in the cart with Sam and 94 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. Dick to Fahl-plas, the farm of James and John Higgins. They were escorted by Alfred Sturton and Alice's in- tended. Alfred was a younger brother of Arthur. The occasion of this festivity was little Sarah's birthday, and there had been great excitement among the young people, for they were to have a dance. The next day Freestate seemed very ill, standing about listlessly and eating but little, and Mr. Higgins said he ought to have a bran mash, but the Kaffir never gave it to him. At about two o'clock we were startled by seeing the cart with Ada and Alfred in it, and Alice and Harriet on horseback. I shall never forget the sharp ring of terror in Mrs. Higgins's voice as she greeted them with, "Where are my children?" Little Sarah, the told us, was very ill with sore throat diphtheria had been fatal in the family and Augusta was ill too. It was decided to start at once for Fahl-plas, Mr. and Mrs. Higgins in the cart, and I riding, for Mrs. Higgins said she would like me to go to see the children. The two greys did their return journey well. We got in before dark. Little Sarah was very ill with high fever, and her throat dreadfully inflamed she was almost delirious at times. Augusta had simply a bad cold. Then, for the first time, did I see the misery of illness in this country. The two houses at Fahl-plas could muster but eight rooms together, counting the kitchens. Into these eight rooms, or rather six rooms, had to be stowed four men, five babies, or children little more than babies, two little girls, and four women fifteen people ! Mrs. Higgins, Augusta, Sarah and I were all in one small room, and its one window had to be kept shut ! Its door opened into the dining-room where two of the men slept A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 95 and it had no chimney to admit air. Then the impossi- bility of keeping the small children quiet ! I remember two little boys inventing a dreadful species of drum made out of an old biscuit tin, which could be heard for miles off, and when it was taken away, their shrieks were worse than the drum itself. Augusta was well enough in a day to be driven over to Surprise; the rest of us stayed with little Sarah. Her throat ulcerated and was dreadfully bad, but finally the ulcers broke, and she began to mend. Before this, however, Mrs. Higgins expressed a wish that I should return to Surprise, to be with Augusta and Harriet, and great was their astonishment at my appearance alone just as it got dark one evening. Poor Freestate was dead killed by the bots. I had heard of many things which were suppose to kill bots one excellent remedy, I had been told, was thick sugar-and-water also strong coffee. I determined now to make the experiment, and getting a live bot from the stomach of the poor horse, (the creatures had eaten through the stomach in places), I put it into all sorts of baths. Strong solution of tartar emetic so strong as to be an impossible dose for a horse alone seemed to make the objectionable little worm feel ill ', that nearly killed him, and would have killed him altogether, only that just as he was at his last gulp I put him as an experiment into a bath of strong coffee, when he instantly came to and looked quite lively. Sugar, too, he seemed rather to like ; and at last I gave my experi- ments up, having tried all the medicines in my medicine- chest, besides other simples, such as coffee. Harriet Sturton was a very pleasant addition to our party, and except for my anxiety about little Sarah, I g6 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. should have quite enjoyed this time, but I now felt how fond of the child, and still more of her mother, I had grown. I could have cried for joy the day she was brought home. Mr. Higgins now prepared to leave home for the Bush- veldt, and here I must explain what the bush- veldt is. Lying towards the northern borders of the Transvaal are large tracts of land, unfitted for cultivation except in parts, owing to there not being much water, and hence given over to nature, and such trees as nature causes to grow there. There are not many parts of this bush- veldt where the trees are fine, owing to the constantly- recurring bush-fires ; but the bush- veldt of Zoutpansberg, which is called the Wood-bush, produces fine timber, and steam saw-mills have been established there lately. Along that part of the Crocodile River which runs through the bush-veldt there are some large trees, and I believe in the bush- veldt, bordering the Swazee country, trees of good size are also plentiful. The bush-veldt generally has few Boer houses in it, although it is divided into farms, whose proprietors live elsewhere in summer, leaving their possessions there either tenantless or tenanted only by Kaffirs. In winter, however, they trek there with their flocks and herds, also generally with their families, and then the bush- veldt is full of waggons and tents. The Boers greatly enjoy this annual picnic; the men hunting, the women and children sitting and playing about under the trees, and enjoying the verdure, which, to those who live on what is called the high or Ur-veldt, a barren but healthy tract of the Transvaal, is a luxury. The bush- veldt is fatal to horses during the summer, but is safe for them in winter ; and the grass there remaining, as a rule, A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 97 green under the bushes all through the winter, the oxen and sheep have nice feeding, whereas in the other parts of the Transvaal the grass is either long, hard, and dry, or burnt off by the grass-fires There are, however, great drawbacks to going every year to the bush-veldt. Poisonous herbs grow there, one of which is fatal to sheep, the other to oxen. It is easy to lose animals in the thick bush, and when lost they are liable to fall a prey to wild beasts. It is also difficult to keep the herds of different owners separate, and hence 'the disease called "lung-sick" (which is contagious amongst cattle) often does -much damage; whilst a long pod which grows on one sort of thorn-tree has a poisonous effect on cattle that eat it, lowering their condition, and sometimes even killing them. Many also of the farmers live at a great distance from the bush-veldt, and the long journey tells against their animals. On the other hand, if cattle and sheep are to be kept in the higher parts of the Transvaal in the winter, good shelter for them must be erected, and hay and other food laid by for them. This would necessi- tate outlay and trouble, both things that a Boer detests. He and his wife are so accustomed to the detestable jolting and discomfort of a waggon that they think nothing of the long journey ; so much accustomed to the higgledy-piggledy arrangements in their cabins, or small houses, that a tent is far preferable and indeed a tent can be most comfortable. But the idea of cutting grass for winter fodder, or growing turnips or mangel-wurzel ! They would stand and laugh a broad he-haw at such an idea in most cases, only a few being sufficiently enlightened to confess it might be well to carry it out. Their plan is to put a match in the grass when it is dry, to burn it and H 98 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. get rid of it, so that the fresh grass may sprout, and trek to the bush-veldt. Grass-fires are very dangerous. Waggons, stock, and dwelling-houses are sometimes de- stroyed by them ; but then it is only sometimes, so what does it matter ? The result of this treking to the bush- veldt is, that for about six months in the year milk cannot be got except in the bush- veldt ; and the same may be said of butter, for the Boers make butter so badly that it will not keep. They do not, besides, make much, and cheese they never make. In Pretoria milk sells readily at a shilling a bottle in the winter, and butter sometimes runs up to four, or even five shillings a pound ; three shillings is considered a moderate price. Even at the best of times, in this great pasture country (for, as a whole, the Transvaal is that) the cows give very little milk. I have seen over twenty cows give about two buckets when they were in full milk ! It is usually said that the cows of this country are bad milkers, and only good for breeding oxen ; but it strikes me that even good cows, treated as they are here, would soon become bad. Exposed constantly to the weather, whatever it may be, every night driven into an open kraal, sometimes knee- deep in mud, with their calves left close to them all night, only kept from sucking by a barrier of thorn bushes, or a few poles, or at best a stone wall, by which a division is made in the big kraal; sometimes trying all night to break through to them ; never given any food but grass what can be expected from them ? Boers, too, will assure you that 110 cow will give milk unless her calf is first allowed to suck, and that if the calf dies she will run dry. Like many other things in this country, a little good manage- ment would set it to rights. A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 99 Why Mr. Higgins sent his cattle to the bush-veldt I really don't know, for he said himself the journey was bad for them, and that they could get as good eating in the kloofs (or ravines) on his property as they could any- where, instancing the fact that the cattle belonging to his kraal-Kaffirs, that grazed about the mountains in the winter, looked better than his did when they returned from the bush-veldt. However, he had sent them under the care of the Nell family as soon as his waggons came up from Natal, leaving only one span of oxen to do the farm work, and one fine ox that was too sick to walk, at Surprise, and now he prepared to follow them. His father and mother had gone before, leaving Alice and Ada at Surprise, and we once more settled down in our quiet life. Before going farther, allow me to introduce the Nell family. It consisted of a hulking black-bearded father ; of a stout garrulous mother, who had unlimited powers of invention, and who could speak a little English; then followed two big sons, and a whole bevy of little boys and girls, ending with an infant in arms. Krishian (I spell as pronounced I believe his name is Christian) was a young gentleman who wished to be elegant. Whenever he got any money by working an occupation he objected to he spent it in making himself lovely in velvet coats, &c., occasionally investing in that most perilous possession in the Transvaal, a horse, but when he had one he took no care of it. As may be imagined, the ups and downs of this young man were frequent. The second son, Dahl I don't know what his real name was, Dahl being, I heard, his mother's abbreviation of darling was a big hulking fellow with a baby's face, and the most H 2 ioo A Lady Trader in tJie Transvaal. wonderful talent for romancing I ever met with or heard of, except in Lever's creation of " Potts " in " A Day's Ride." He was a better fellow by far than Krishian, although dirtier, and worse to shake hands with. Of the younger members of the family I have no distinct knowledge ; to hear their names, you would have thought they were a family of pups. There were Tic, and Tol, and Toss, besides others. The father and mother had come from the old colony, where they had had, and lost, money, and in consequence considered themselves some- thing better than those of their neighbours who were as poor as they, but they let their children, big and little, be on terms of equality with the Urlams Kaffirs. There was a small one-roomed cabin, situated at the lower end of Mr. Higgins's property, originally built by William Sturton,who, like his brother Arthur, had married a Miss Higgins. He had built it for himself and his wife, before he hired a farm in the valley near to his brother, and since then the cabin had remained tenantless. Just before Mr. Higgins went to Natal, Krishian and Dahl had asked to be allowed to occupy this eligible residence, and to till some ground near to it, in return for their ser- vices on the farm. Mr. Higgins had consented, saying, however, that they must come alone ! He had had pre- vious and disagreeable knowledge of the whole family as tenants. " You will see that the whole troop will come so soon as you go away/' Mrs. Higgins had said. " Then I will send them packing, when I come back/' replied her husband, causing Mrs. Higgins to laugh in a way that told me she doubted his ferocity. True enough, two days after Mr. Higgins's departure, a waggon was A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 101 seen depositing the whole family and their baggage at the cabin. How they all managed to pack into that diminu- tive abode, Heaven only knows ! but houses here are wonderfully elastic. They commenced tilling some ad- joining ground in a leisurely manner, made themselves very much at home at Surprise in a cringing sort of way, and did as little as possible. On Mr. Higgins's return no change was made ; he, an over-easy master for Kaffirs, was not likely to be less so for people of white race. Mrs. Xell would sometimes pay a day's visit at Surprise, where her conversation was a mixture of flattery and gossip ; she knew everything about every- body, and her curiosity was unbounded. She would follow Mrs. Higgins about as she did her household work, sitting down in the nearest chair and pouring forth a stream of talk. She and her husband were very anxious for Mr. Higgins to adopt one of their small fry, a dimi- nutive but perfect specimen of a Dutchman chubby, stolid, with little knickerbockers, short jacket, and broad hat, all complete, only wanting a pipe to be quite perfect. I don't know whether he was Tic, Toss, or Tol, but anyhow his parents, whilst giving him an excellent character, were anxious to part with him, partly, they averred on account of his own surprising attachment to Mr. Higgins ; Mrs. Higgins, however, resolutely rejected this handsome present. Dahl Nell often favoured Sur- prise by a short visit, generally asking for a loan of some- thing, which it was difficult to get back again, and enlivening his conversation by stories of doubtful veracity. Once he gave a touching description of the death of an acquaintance of the Higginses, who was in robust health at the time ; but his grandest flight of fancy, that I ever IO2 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. heard of, was reserved for a farmer who lived at some distance. Chancing to meet this individual, the baby- faced Dahl recounted to him that he had been fortunate enough to obtain from old Mr. Higgins the loan of his span of oxen, that he had also got a waggon, and was prepared to ride transport to the Diamond Fields, familiarly called the " Fields/' High prices were being given for produce there at the time, and transport was also high, and many a young man's dream was to be able to get a span and a waggon to take loads there. I sup- pose Dahl as he had trudged along on foot to where he met the farmer, had dreamed a pleasant day-dream of how at some future time he might make enough money to afford himself a horse. The farmer pricked up his ears, and the affair ended by a bargain being struck for Dahl to take a load for him to the Fields. How Master Nell got out of his contract I don't know, but as he had no means of fulfilling it he must have got out of it somehow, probably scathlessly, for the Nell family seemed to have a knack of wriggling out of difficulties in safety. Why Mr. Higgins trusted his valuable cattle to go to the bush-veldt under the care of these people I can't say, but the Nell family were delighted to be so trusted. They would have milk all the winter, could make butter, and sell it afterwards if they chose to take the trouble of putting it in jars, or if not eat it themselves ; they could have meat too, which was a luxury to them, for they could easily invent a story to account for the death of an animal ; and then they were paid into the bargain. They had got an old tent-waggon and departed happy, and by the time Mr. Higgins came up to them had killed a cow. They said she had gone blind ! they swore she had A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 103 so blind that she could not see where to walk ; but it was strange that the Kaffirs with them had been unable to detect her inability to distinguish surrounding objects. I forgot to mention that amongst other talents Mrs. Nell possessed that great female accomplishment of being able to weep to order, and this always settled the matter with Mr. Higgins. A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. CHAPTER XL I HAVE a pleasant remembrance of winter at Surprise the bright crisp morning air as I walked through the hoar-frost to the stable, there to warm my hands by cleaning Eclipse; the cheery breakfast of bread and mutton, or sometimes eggs, occasionally pleasantly diver- sified by hot scones, and which my exercise always caused me to enjoy, although I confess I missed the milk ; then lessons. I don't maintain that they were always pleasant that would be impossible ; and the school-room a bare room, with the rafters showing overhead, a mud floor, and with a big deal table, two forms, one chair, and a big packing-case for furniture was sometimes bitterly cold ; but Mrs. Higgins would bring, or send us in, little iron dishes of hot embers to warm our toes, and we wrapped ourselves up in all sorts of jackets and shawls. Rough would curl up in my lap and act muff; and so we pulled through, and except when little Sarah's grief at not being able to have a good romp instead of saying lessons, became overwhelming, we used to be quite merry over our spelling-books, geography, &c. Dinner of mutton, pumpkin, potatoes, and sometimes crushed mealies, made a diversion ; and then afternoon tea, when Mrs. Higgins generally managed to get an egg to beat up in my tea, A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 105 and make a substitute for milk. I used to enjoy that tea, I lolling on the table having been sitting too long for standing not to appear preferable .to sitting to me ; Mrs. Higgins, always with some work in her hands, sitting on the sofa; and the children running about the room chattering, as children always do when let out of school. The singing lesson generally came after; and then I hastened off to catch Eclipse (for although he would let himself be driven up towards the house by the little Kaffirs, he would not let himself be caught except by me) and take him to the stable, to give him his evening feed and bed him up. Just before starting for the bush-veldt, Mr. Higgins (having sent the Kaffir Jonas away) had given me his house as a stable for Eclipse, but before that, I used to feed him outside the old stable under the big syringa- trees of an evening, and many a pretty Rembrandt-look- ing group have I seen of the Kaffirs, little and big, sitting round this evening fire, which threw fitful lights on the trunks of the surrounding bushes and trees, and on the long grass, also on elf -like little figures dancing some un- couth Kaffir dance, and chanting some equally uncouth Boer ditty, interrupted by peals of ringing laughter as one or the other played some trick off on his or her companions. Great amongst the trick players were little Sarah (who, free from school, was wild with spirits) and Fiervaree the small groom. Then to walk to the house, and see the light of the bright wood fire in the drawing-room gleam- ing through the darkness, and know how cosy it would be that evening after our supper of bread and tea, when we would all draw round the fire, and with the three youngest girls curled up on the ground, or sitting in the io6 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. big fireplace, a petition would be put up by a chorus of young voices for a story, and I had to recall old German "Mahrehen" and eastern "Arabian Nights/' and make De laMotte Fouque's charming "Undine" come forth from the treasury of my memory, to delight these pretty little Africanders, who hung on my words as if I had been a veritable Scheherazade. There were two additions to our family always in the room ; these I had forgotten to mention. One was a dassy, or rock rabbit, a round furry little beast, guiltless of a tail, and with the brightest eyes, and the sharpest of white teeth, which it was not slow to use. It was still quite young, but when annoyed was very fierce, and would fly at any one it fancied meant to offend it, as at any dog or horse that in any way molested it, making a queer snapping noise, and curling up its little upper lip in a savage manner that seemed quite preposterous in such a soft little furry beast. It was wonderfully active, and although its legs were almost too short to be visible, and it had no neck to speak of, and was besides as fat as a plump partridge, it thought nothing of taking the most prodigious jumps up, down, or sideways. The mischief this little animal delighted in was something wonderful. It had a great taste for flowers ; roses it particularly affected ; and whether it saw one in a girl's hair, or in a vase on a high chimney-piece, was quite immaterial to it. To jump from the floor on the young lady's shoulder and seize its prey, or to spend a whole afternoon in practising jumps at the chimney- piece, was the same to Master Dassy. He always got the rose in the end. And if there was not a rose, he would demolish whatever in the flower line there was. The numbers of vases full of water that small animal over- A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 107 turned was wonderful ; but at times he would become the victim of an insane desire to break something. Once he made up his mind to break a very pretty glass vase. He shoAved his intention early in the morning, and in spite of the vase being repeatedly placed in positions that were supposed to be safe from his assaults, it was broken before evening. We were at supper when we heard the crash, and arrived in the drawing-room just in time to see Master Dassy scuttling away, his little black eyes dancing with glee, and the vase, broken in pieces, lying on the floor. At meal-times Dassy was great. He would make one spring from the sofa to the table, and once there he would put one little paw on the side of a dish, and tilt up the cover with his little snub nose, look what was inside, and if he liked it nibble a little, if not put down the cover and go to another dish. I have often looked at him sitting in the middle of the table eating alternately from four dishes. If he was interfered with, he would charge at the offender, barking, and showing his teeth, and if he could not bite his enemy, he would at least fasten on and worry his sleeve. If there was nothing else to eat he would nibble hair or wool mats, and window blinds, sometimes even he would sit on my shoulder and nibble my hair. He and Rough were great friends, and he would curl up on Rough's back, or between his paws, and look exquisitely comfortable. Dassy was a Sybarite. His slumbers were not to be disturbed with impunity. He generally slept in his master and mistress's bed, and would bite them if they, in moving, interfered with him. In the morning he would have his early coffee, and if it were not given quickly to him in a saucer, he would jump up and upset the cup ; then he would hop up to the window, and pop io8 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. his nose through a hole in one of the panes to try what the temperature was, and if it was cold he would retreat to bed again. There was a thin muslin curtain hung over the lower part of the window which interfered a little with him, so one day he nibbled it away exactly over where it had acted as a curtain to his loop-hole. He was a most engaging little animal ; and when at last he fell sick, and his appetite failing, waxed thin, and at last so feeble that he could hardly move, his little face and ways were most touching. He would still try to eat a rose, and if he saw one, would look first at it, and then at any- one who happened to be near him, imploringly. A few nights before he died I had occasion to go into the kitchen after the family were in bed. Dassy was curled up in the still warm ashes of the fire, and as I came in I was struck by the mute appeal in his eyes. I thought he might want something to drink, and brought water and then milk to him ; but he would not touch either, but still looked imploringly at me. I stroked the poor little back, now quite sharp and bony, and puzzled my brains as to what the little thing could want. Suddenly he crawled over to a small piece of half-burnt wood, and took it up, then looked straight at me, nibbled it and put it down. I saw then what he wanted, and got him food, which he ate greedily. I had not thought of it before, for he had persistently refused food for days. During the winter, however, Dassy was still well and mischievous, and Fido, Roughy, the two cats, Dassy, and a little prairie-dog, or meer-cat, formed members of our evening party. The meer-cat, an animal I had often seen in the Zoolo- gical Gardens, was even funnier than the dassy. With its long black bushy tail, long sharp nose, and bead-like eyes, A Lady Trader in tJie Transvaal. 109 it looked as if it would be the more active of tlie two. But the dassy beat it hollow in jumping. Meer-cat, how- ever, would canter along as quick as a horse, and many a time has he even outrun Eclipse as he cantered ; when, jumping up on a convenient ant-heap, this little piece of absurdity would stand bolt upright, balancing himself on his tail, and with his fore paws crossed, and his head turning from side to side, would survey his surroundings with the greatest complacency, until the horse, being abreast of him, he would jump down, and with his tail erect make off to the next nearest ant-heap. Sometimes he would lie on his back propped against a stone, with his fore paws crossed, his tail turned up between his hind legs, head thrown backwards, and his eyes cast up in a most sentimental manner. Really, however, he cast up his eyes to keep a sharp look-out for hawks, of which he was terribly afraid. At other times he would play hide and seek with Dassy, or throwing one fore paw round the cat's neck, sit for half an hour examining her fur in the way monkeys do, or he would compose himself to sleep, lean- ing back cross-pawed in the chimney corner, or perhaps, after vain efforts at keeping in an absolutely erect position poised on his tail in front of the fire, and after sundry bobs and nods and sudden awakings, accompanied with those demonstrations of great wukefulness which I have so frequently observed and practised during sermon- times in my youthful days, he would suddenly collapse into a little furry ball, and sleep so soundly that he would emit little snores and let himself be handled without awaking. He was as mischievous as Dassy, only in a different way, and having been accustomed in his early youth to follow the fashion of meer-cata and live in a i io A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. hole, lie was never tired of grubbing, either in or out of doors. Sometimes our evening's amusements were diversified by making pancakes, or by playing games, such as magic music and friar's ground; and sometimes the children would give me a good laugh by chasing old Khrid as she went about her duties in the kitchen, carrying a lighted candle in a pewter candlestick poised on her head. Occasionally a chance visitor from the outer world would drop in unexpectedly strangers travelling through the Country for the first time, or people out for a day or two from Pretoria, or sometimes people of the country travelling on business. Whatever or whoever they were, they met with genial hospitality at Surprise. Then, at other times, Jimmy would come up to pay a visit on Sunday, one of the girls and I would ride down to the valley, or I would ride over to the farmhouse where the post was left, for letters. One hideous episode alone, broke the pleasant monotony of this time. One night I was awakened by a loud tapping at my door and Mrs. Higgins's voice calling me. I jumped up in a fright, thinking that one of the children must be ill, but was glad to hear that it was only a Kaffir child, the little daughter of a certain Andreas, who lived in a small separate kraal on Mr. Higgins's estate. Andreas affected to be something better than the usual kraal Kaffirs, but his wife was a mere savage, dressed in skins and blankets, and his children ran about either naked or with only a narrow girdle on. Mrs. Higgins took me into the kitchen, where I saw Andreas with the little girl squatted on the floor, and the mother with a baby in her arms standing close by. After examining the child I felt con- A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 1 1 1 vinced that she had taken poison some vegetable poison ; I could not say what. The history told by her father, and which, owing to my still imperfect knowledge of Dutch, had to be interpreted to me by an old Englishman who was building a stone cattle-kraal at Surprise, and who had been aroused from his sleep in the lumber-room by these late visitors, was this. The mother had gone a short time before to a neighbouring kraal where the family of Andreas's brother's wife lived. She had taken the girl with her, arid from the day she returned she had been ailing. The father seemed greatly distressed ; the mother did not seem in the least interested. After doing what I co aid for the child and leaving the kitchen, I com- municated my opinion as to the cause of the illness to Mrs. Higgins. She then reminded me that this very Andreas, shortly after my arrival at Surprise, had been accused of poisoning his brother, Roykraal by name, having administei'ed a certain poison to him which had caused him to go mad. That Roykraal, a fine lad not long married, had gone raving mad for a time, and had since remained in a half mad state, whilst he looked quite old, was certain. He had deserted his wife, and generally wandered about talking nonsense to himself. Andreas had been accused before the captain or chief of his tribe, but the charge had fallen through in some way. I remembered too that Mrs. Higgins had, at the time, said that Roykraal's people would take revenge. I also remembered that a short time before, Andreas and his wife had had a desperate disagreement, ending by Mrs. Andreas running away to her father across the mountain. This is a usual form of husband-bullying among the Kaffirs. Girls are sold high amongst these people, an ii2 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. attractive and active girl fetching a considerable price in cattle for a wife. She has to work hard afterwards, for the cultivation of the fields is done principally by the women ; but if her husband displeases her she walks off to her old home ; and as it is considered a great disgrace to a man for his wife to be in her father's kraal, he gene- rally buys her back, paying the father one or more head of cattle to restore her. Andreas had bought his better half back again, after grieving over her departure for some days ; but shortly after she had betaken herself for a visit to the kraal of the father of RoykraaPs wife, and the eldest of Andreas's children, and his favourite, was ill since then. It struck me as strange that Mrs. Andreas, who was of course well aware of the vindictiveness of her own race, should have chosen Mrs. Roykraal's kraal as a place to make an excursion to with her children. I watched the child until early morning, then went to have some sleep. When I saw her later, although still weak and at times light-headed, she could eat with relish ; and as it is not pleasant to nurse any one, especially a dirty Kaffir, in one's kitchen, I agreed with Mrs. Higgius that the child might be taken to her home. We cautioned the parents that they must not leave her alone a minute. The day passed as usual. I was very sleepy in the evening and went to bed early. I always slept with my window open, and Rough always lay curled up at the foot of my bed. Some way on in the night I was startled by his furious barking, and jumping up, I saw a black head protruded inside of my window, whilst its owner said, in a frightened voice, that Andreas's child was dying, and that he had brought it. I let the people into the kitchen, and A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 1 1 3 called Mrs. Higgins. It was a frightful scene. The child was in the most raving delirium I ever saw, convulsed in a most horrible manner, and her howls were unearthly, interrupted, every now and then, by the most touching appeals to her father touching because of the sound of her voice and her action. Her own father could not under- stand what she said. He had brought her tied on his back, which she had lacerated with her nails and teeth. The poor fellow had no thought for himself, but with anguish in his face and voice he besought me to save his child. I asked if he had remained all day with the girl ; he answered that he had been obliged to go away once or twice, but that the mother had remained with her. That more poison had been administered was, however, certain. I looked at the mother; she was squatted in the chimney corner, rolled up in two blankets, and was looking at her daughter's writhings with a stolid curiosity. Then a horrid suspicion crossed my mind. The child, after taking some medicine, became quiet, but soon began to get deadly cold. We got all the blankets we could to roll round her, and put hot bricks to her feet and the calves of her legs. The mother never moved. At last, the child still being cold, I ordered Andreas to take one of the blankets off his wife, as she was warm enough with one, sitting as she was by the fire. The patient was just getting a little warmer, and I had turned away from her for a few minutes, when I noticed that the mother moved and began to arrange the blankets round her child. I watched her to see what she was going to do, and was horrified to see that she pulled her own blanket out, uncovering the child, and proceeded I ii4 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. to roll it round herself, saying, it was explained to me, that she was sure the girl was dying, and that she could not remain, but was going home. It struck me that Andreas was afraid of the woman; but I pulled her blanket off somewhat ungently, and again rolled it round the child, telling the woman that she might go without it if she chose ; but she crouched up again by the fire. The father again made a passionate appeal to me to save the little girl's life ; and Mrs. Higgins having come into the kitchen, I asked her to tell him that I was doing all I could, but that I was combating no disease, but poison, and that it was a poison which I had not the proper means at hand to combat successfully. The wretched man wrung his hands. " Oh ! " he exclaimed wildly, " if I could but get to (mentioning a Kaffir name) behind the mountain, he would save her/' Saul, the driver, who was standing close by Mrs. Higgins and me, whispered, "That's the man he got the poison for Roykraal from/' I shall never forget that night the almost dark kitchen, the awe-struck group standing round the child with her father kneeling by her, the witch-like figure of the mother crouched in one corner of the large fireplace, with an impish-looking boy of about twelve the shepherd crouched in the opposite one, with a grin on his face, and with his lanky bare arms and legs looking more like a hideous spider than anything else, and the sickening conviction that was growing upon me that the mother was an accomplice to the poisoning ! Towards morning I had so far succeeded that the child was warm, and appeared to be sleeping naturally. I felt quite worn out, and not wishing to disturb the children's routine by sleeping the next day, I told the father to call A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 115 me so soon as the little girl should awake, and then I lay down on my bed in my clothes. It was already dawning, and it was still very early morning when I awoke. I got up and hastened to the kitchen. All but the elf-like Kaffir boy were gone; he, as usual, was making early coffee. He told me that at break of day, the mother had insisted upon removing the child to the old stable near the garden. He said the child had seemed to him better. I drank the coffee, and Mrs. Higgins sent a boy to ask how the patient was. The answer came back that the child was again in convulsions ; but on seeing me preparing to go, the boy said it was useless that as he left, the woman, regardless of Andreas, had rolled her child tight up in a blanket, and had started for her kraal with her burden on her back. It was evidently a hopeless case. In the afternoon I rode down to the kraal, two small huts in a little yard enclosed with reeds. The yard was lined with women, squatting on the ground and talking, the mother amongst them. In the principal hut Andreas was seated on the ground, holding his little girl in his arms. She was in a stupor, which I- saw at once was the precursor of death; several kraal Kaffirs were squatted round ; one of them, called Old Jas, a relation of Eoykraal, with a most diabolical grin on his face. The child died that evening, and amidst much shrieking of the women, amongst whom the mother distinguished herself, was buried in her father's little cattle-kraal the place of honour amongst Kaffirs and the huts were deserted as being ill-omened, Andreas and his family going to the big kraal. No farther notice was taken of the matter, but I heard various stories of Kaffirs having poisoned even white i 2 1 1 6 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. people's children in revenge, which, together with what I had seen, finished the disgust which I already felt for Kaffirs as a nation. The men who knew the Kaffirs best, and to whom I mentioned my conviction of the woman's guilt, said they had no doubt that I was right in my conclusions; that Kaffir women were quite capable of poisoning their own children in revenge upon their husbands. A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 117 CHAPTER XII . MR. HIGGINS returned from the bush-veldt ill-content Avith the management of the Nell family, but thinking that he had set them on the right path. We had hoped for a little butter, but none was sent. Things went on in much the same way after his return, with the exception that the story-telling came to an end, except when one of the children did not feel well and went to bed early, getting me to sit by the bed-side, or on the bed, and recount tales. I rather think there was a good deal of " foxing " done on little Sarah's part : Augusta never " foxed " about anything. It was mid-winter, and the grass-fires were wonderful and terrible to look at, as they swept along before the wind. Of course it depends on the strength of the wind whether they 'are dangerous or not, and it has always appeared strange to me how little the knowledge that the wind may rise or veer in a minute, seems to trouble the farmers. One evening I was going to bed, when I observed the whole sky ablaze from an evidently large fire at the other side of that part of the mountain which formed a spur in front of my window. The trees clothing the mountain side, and the magnificent precipice at its top, stood out in effective relief against the flame- coloured 1 1 8 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. masses of smoke which were rolling, not towards Surprise, but, driven by the south wind northward over the mountain. The danger, so long as the wind remained steady, was not to us, for although the lurid light seemed near, I knew the fire could not even have reached the confines of Mr. Higgins's property. However, I called him he had not yet gone to bed and showed him the fire. " It is far off," he said ; " don't be frightened, the wind is not blowing this way/' "But suppose it changes in the night ? " said I. " Oh, it won't change/' he answered, laughing, and returned quietly to his rest. I was convinced Mr. Higgins was not infallible about the wind, and I knew that Eclipse was shut up in a house surrounded by such long grass that it nearly reached to the thatched roof, so I opened my window wide, and resolved to wake several times during the the night ; this I can do when I choose. The first time 1 awoke the fire was no closer, it was being slowly driven northward ; the second time the wind had changed, evidently only a short time before I awoke (it is possible its change woke me, for there was a slight breeze blowing into my room), and the smoke was pouring over the spur in the direction of the house. I had lain down in some of my clothes in case of emergency, and I immediately hastened through the dressing-room to Mr. Higgins's room, and tapping at the door told him of the change of wind. I had awakened and startled Harriet Sturton and the children, who were sleeping on the floor in the drawing-room. By the time I regained my room the flames could be seen, dancing amongst the foliage along the top of the spur. I now dressed ; and taking a bridle in my hand, I went down to Eclipse's stable, so that in case of the wind rising I A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 1 1 9 might be able to get him out of it and into safety quickly. I did not go in, but waited and watched the scene. It was impressive. The moon was a little past the full, and shed her light on all around; to the north-west she was eclipsed by the fire, that came steadily on, curling round the foot of the precipice, whose projecting crags it lit up fitfully, with its many tongues licking up the long grass, and shooting along the stems of the trees and amongst their branches, until they, instead of standing out black against a lurid background, looked like enormous torches. It came closer and closer, till I could not only feel its hot breath, but could hear the roar of the flames and the crackling of the grass and bushes; then at last some Kaffirs came from the houses beyond the dam, and ex- tinguished the fire by beating it down with big branches, It broke out again during the day, however; and the next evening, as I was riding back alone from a visit to the valley, I saw its red serpent-like track creeping up and across the mountain. I was beginning to understand the Boer language now, and even to talk it, having practised it with the little Kaffirs who used to congregate round me morning and evening while I was attending to my horse. These impromptu lessons had become rarer since I had a separate stable for Eclipse, still I had occasional visitors even there. Once I remember a young Kaffir, the very imp who had reminded me of an ugly spider the night of the Andreas tragedy, standing for a long time, lolling through one of the little windows of the stable, looking at me while I turned up the bedding and cleaned the stall after I had turned Eclipse out ; for, strange to say, I had vainly offered a shilling a week to any boy who would do 1 20 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. this for me. All were willing to take the shilling, but none would do the work as I chose it to be done, a very small cleaning of a stable going a long way in the Transvaal. The abovementioned young gentleman watched me with great interest for some time, and I said nothing to him, just to see what was coming (I knew it would not be an offer of assistance), then, turning to a small girl who came to tell me that breakfast was ready, he observed with great unction, " No ; thus I would never work for a horse. " I was beginning to think that it was time for me to look about for a farm, as I had not intended to remain more than one year as a governess. I had learned a good deal in various ways, too, during the past months, as much as, without neglecting my duties, I should ever learn, and hence, having seen some advertisements in the Volkstem and Argus which looked promising, and hearing that Arthur Sturton with his wife and Jimmy were going to Pretoria for the races in September, and would take their waggon, I asked leave to go too, as I should be able to send up a dress in their waggon and not be entirely dependent on my habit, as I must be in the event of riding up alone. Mr. Higgins was going to the races also, and upon my getting the desired per- mission, it was agreed that Mrs. Higgins and the children should accompany him. Only two events that occurred between Mr. Higgins's return and our going to Pretoria have left any particular impression on my mind, in addition to that made by the fire. The first was the return of the cattle from the bush-veldt in the early spring, very shortly before we started. It was a beautiful afternoon when the little A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 121 Kaffirs came running with the news that the herd was in sight, but a long way off. We all turned out, lessons being hurried on in honour of the occasion, to see them come up. And a pretty sight it was ; the cows, with their calves, born in the bush-veldt, trotting beside them, the sturdy oxen, and the frisky young cattle, all coming in a long line across the fresh young grass of the hill-side and under the thorn-trees, bellowing a welcome to their old home, and the evening sun throwing their shadows far along the ground. They no longer found their poor old companion who had been too ill to follow them to the bush-veldt. He had got better, and had almost weathered out the winter, but after being left for a few nights of bitter cold rain without any covering, shivering in the kraal, into which from old habit he used to put himself at night, he one morning tottered over to the waggon he used to draw, and fell dead beside the disselboom, his old place when treking. I was present when the Kaffirs skinned and opened the carcass, preparatory to eating it. The poor ox a valuable one, who, but a short time before he got ill, had, with his mate, prevented the waggon being over- turned, by their intelligence in holding back when the rest of the oxen were taking it into danger died simply of neglected inflammation of the lungs. The second event was the visit of the Bishop of Pretoria, who came and went on a jolly and evidently petted pony. He confirmed the three eldest girls, also old Mr. and Mrs. Higgins ; and I shall never forget the singularly im- pressive sight of this world-worn couple, kneeling beside their two young daughters and their fair-haired grand- child in the drawing-room at Surprise, and answering from 122 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. their careworn hearts that they steadfastly believed in that religion from which they had drawn comfort in all their many troubles, whilst the children's fresh lips repeated the same words, without even an idea of what steadfast belief meant. "We used to have occasional religious services in the drawing-room,, Mr. Richardson coming from Rustemberg twice, riding ; and then a young Englishman (not in holy orders), who was tutor to the children of an English Africander farmer at some distance, being entrusted by the bishop with the spiritual care of the district in which Surprise was the largest farmhouse. On these occasions old Mr. and Mrs. Higgins and the Sturtons, who lived in the valley, and sometimes John or James Higgins and family, would be our guests, also Jimmy; and while I played the piano (for owing to my lameness I could not play the harmonium), the young people sang the hymns. The young amateur clergyman was a very amusing person, and used to convulse us with laughter at his absurd anec- dotes of his life at a Boer's where he had at first been tutor. He certainly did not seem to have slept on roses there. Besides being tutor in the English Africander's family, he had to help with a store and mill ; at last he found his duties too onerous, and all attempt at church services ceased. A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 123 CHAPTER XIII. THERE were many preparations to be made for going to Pretoria dresses to be made for the children, and biscuits baked for us all, for we were to live in the waggon whilst there and the children were in great glee. At last the morning came ; the waggon was packed ; bedding, and boxes, and provisions, were all put in, and lastly Mrs. Higgins and her children. Then the waggon started, leaving Mr. Higgins and me to follow on horseback. We gave them a fair start ; and, leaving the old Englishman who had been building the new stone kraal, in charge of the place, and of the dogs and other pet beasts, who all had to be shut up until we were gone, and having locked up the front part of the house, we mounted our horses and followed. We came up with the waggon about half way to Moy- plas, outspanned just across a deep spruit. The travellers were having a tea-dinner, so we off-saddled and enjoyed it with them; then leaving them once more, we rode on. For some distance the road was uninteresting, its chief advantage being that it was good for cantering; but as we neared Moy-plas and crossed the tributary of the Crocodile River, which I had previously crossed when riding to Fahl-plas, we came to a farm which made a 124 -A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. great impression upon me. Stretching right across the valley and to the top of the ranges on either side, with water from two tributaries of the Crocodile irrigating it, with its broad lands, magnificent orchard, its out- buildings, and its small but trim farmhouse, it looked the perfection of a Boer farm, and made one picture to oneself what it might be if it were an English one. The owner of this fine property a tall, gaunt woman with a pleasant face, the widow of three husbands was standing by the gate of the little yard in front of her house, a yard trim as a room, with oleander and other trees round it, and shut in by a low whitewashed wall. She received us cheerily, looked inquisitively at me when Mr. Higgins introduced me as his children's schoolmistress, told us that Arthur Sturton's waggon had passed, that he had paid her a visit with Jimmy, and that she thought Jimmy was rude because he did not shake hands all round, but she was delighted at my attempts to talk Dutch, and told me I must pay her another visit. She was surrounded by children of various ages, and all related to her in some way, whose parents lived in some of the buildings which looked like barns. This old lady was a remarkable woman. Hospitable and free-handed to all, of whatever nation they might be, she was yet a frugal manager. She and her first husband had started in life with a waggon and a span of oxen. I don't know what sort of man he was, but she was a host in herself. If her oxen stuck in a difficult drift, she would tuck up her petticoats, pull off her boots, and leaping from the waggon take the whip from her Kaffir and drive the team through herself. If labour was scarce at harvest time, or when water had to be led on the lands, she thought nothing of doing the necessary work, but she attended to A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 125 her household duties withal. She had never allowed her children to take any part in politics, and I don't think any one exactly knew what she thought of British rule. Like all Boer women and men, she regarded husbands and wives as articles so necessary to household comfort that no time must be lost in replacing them when lost ; still she was of opinion that there was some limitation as to age in the matter, and I heard a delightful story about her reception of a suitor after the demise of No. 3. Mr. Higgins was riding home from Pretoria one day when he met a young Boer, so magnificently got up that he knew he must be going a-courting ; for Boers array themselves splendidly, and pay great attention on such occasions to the quality and colour of their saddle- cloths, a very favourite sort being a large-patterned drugget with much green and red in it, and with a broad yellow woollen fringe. The young Boer seemed discon- certed when Mr.' Higgins asked him where he was going, and still more so when Mr. Higgins playfully inquired whether the fair one was Lettie Matersen. This aroused Mr. Higgins's suspicions. Shortly after he had occasion to pass by Mrs. Matersen's farm, and, as usual, went in to pay a visit. He asked if she had lately seen (men- tioning the young man's name). "Yes," she said, " he had been there ;" and then went on to tell how the unfortunate individual had been dealt with by her. He had come to pay a visit, and the old lady instantly saw through his motives. She tormented him with questions as to whom he was going a-courting to, and as she knew all her neighbours, soon forced him into a corner by making him confess it was to none of them he was bound. She was deaf to his assertion that he was searching for 126 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. a lost ox (a favourite excuse with a would-be suitor), although he described all its marks ; and at last when she extorted from him that she was the object of his hopes and fears, she turned sharp on him with " Ah, ah ! You young idiot. You have come a-courting of my farm, have you," &c., &c., until she drove him frantic from the house. We reached Moy-plas as the sun was beginning to get low, and found the Sturtons' and old Mr. Higgins's waggons there already for Alice and Ada had persuaded the old people to take them to the races. I must try to describe Moy-plas. It was a large, irregular-shaped cottage, whitewashed and thatched, and it looked more like an English farmhouse than any place I had seen in the Transvaal. It was approached by a road branching a little off the highway to Pretoria, and the back of the house was turned to this road and to the outbuildings, which partially enclosed the sheep and goat kraal. At each side of these were sheds for protecting the animals in bad weather. The front of the house opened on a verandah, from which a step led to a yard like Mrs. Matersen's, this in its turn opened on a strip of grass, with a well-kept path leading to a little bridge across the broad water-furrow (like a rivulet), and into a trim garden and orchard, where you might walk under rows of big orange and lemon trees, and along hedges of figs, pomegranates, and quinces. There were vines, too, kept low and trim, and lots of brandy was made at Moy- plas. Inside, the idea of an English farmhouse was sug- gested by the wooden ceilings, with their supporting rafters, painted and polished, and the ample cupboards. One apartment, the dining-room, was papered with prints cut from the Illustrated Neivs ; many of them recalled the A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 127 ghosts of former days to me, in a manner that was almost pleasant from the sense of strangeness that it awakened in me. Old Mr. and Mrs. Sturton were already at Pretoria, having gone there on account of Mr. Sturton's illness, and Harriet with her elder sister Maria, and her younger Clara, were to follow 'them in Arthur Sturton's waggon. The youngest girl, Lettie, was at Pretoria. Two sons Percy, a jolly young fellow with a ferocious beard, ' and Augustus, who was still a child were to be left in charge of the farm, which, like Mrs. Matersen's, stretched from the top of the Magaliesberg across the valley to the top of the opposite range. William and Alfred, the two remaining sons, were the one on his farm, the other at school near Fahl-plas, his tutor being the amateur clergy- man. During the afternoon two rakish-looking men rode up, and were introduced to me as I sat under the verandah : they, too, were going to the races. Oue was an English- man I had often heard of, Charlie Harris ; the other, a Boer, whom, however, I took for an Englishman, as he spoke English perfectly, and I did not catch his name, Van der Veer, when he was introduced. I must here remark that it is far more the custom to talk of people by their Christian and surname together, than to use the term " Mr. ; ' It is very common, indeed, to use the Christian name alone. These individuals did not stay long, not even off-saddling. The Sturtons made me have iny meals in the house, but the others cooked beside their waggons, and I had a picnic tea by old Mrs. Higgins's camp fire. Our waggon came in late, and in the very early dawn 128 A Lady Trader in tlie Transvaal. it and its occupants, together with Arthur Sturton's and old Mr. Higgins's waggons, and iriany accompanying waggons laden with forage for the Pretoria market, were got under way. They were to outspann for breakfast im- mediately after they had crossed the Crocodile. Mr. Higgins, Arthur Sturton, and I, waited for early coffee, and then started after them on horseback, Percy Sturton riding with us so far as the first outspann. Very pretty the wooded drift of the Crocodile looked that morning, the river flowing past it towards the deep cleft through which it winds its way to the back of the Magaliesberg. All but one of the waggons were already outspanned on the opposite side, and the camp fires alight, the ladies and children standing in groups looking down at the one forage waggon which had stuck in the drift. I rode on, and Mr. Higgins and Percy Sturton, dis- mounting and taking the whips, soon drove it through. ' We outspanned that evening close to Dasspoort, and within two miles of Pretoria, which lies on the other side of it. The name is derived from the number of dassies that used to live in the rocks at either side ; none are to be seen' now, but the name remains. The next morning we inspanned early, and Mr. Higgins rode on before the waggons so as to be early on the market with samples of his forage. We all followed in the waggon, Eclipse being led. I thought Dasspoort looked very pretty in the early morning light, the road being cut out of the face of the rock a few feet above the course of the Apis river ; and even before we outspanned on the outskirts of the village, I remarked that it had greatly increased in size since I had seen it last, and that a great deal of building was going on. A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 129 CHAPTER XIV. THE great excitement during our stay at Pretoria was the races, but other things, too, made an impression on my mind. First of all, the sleeping in the waggon. Mr. and Mrs. Higgins slept in the back part with little Sarah; a cur- tain divided them from Augusta and myself; and Sannee made up a sort of bed for herself on a box which stood across the fore part of the waggon, called the waggon- box, from which she had a tendency to roll down on my head in the night. Our washing arrangements were very limited ; and camp life, though jolly in its proper place, is a bore on the outskirts of a village, particularly when the village calls itself a city. However, we rubbed along. We found old Mr. Sturton very ill, and the arrangements for taking care of him were such as made my hair stand on end. A bare room had been hired at an enormous rent, in a house whose owners did not trouble themselves much about the illness of their tenant. A few things had been put in hastily, and there he lay, in danger of his life, with the cooking having to be done in his room, or outside, in a sort of yard, into which the refuse from all the neigh- bouring houses was thrown. There were no means of keeping the rooms fresh and clean no comfort which an invalid requires. On the arrival of his daughters another small room (also bare) was hired, and here the girls slept, K 130 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. and sometimes sat, on mattresses spread on the ground ; all this discomfort was not caused by want of money, but because the necessary accommodation was not to be had. I, of course, saw my kind acquaintances again at Pre- toria, and then there were the races. These were much better than I expected. The horses looked more up to the mark than I thought they would the jockeys, also and the running was not at all bad. Eclipse, remember- ing his old racing days, I suppose, was in a great state of mind at the first start. I rode with Mr. Higgins to see that, and then we separated, and I presently fell in with Mr. Van-der-veen at the Higgins's waggon, which was drawn up in a line with many other waggons. The scene was characteristic of South Africa the ox-waggon ele- ment predominating but there were also traps of various kinds drawn up in line, a little grand stand, with the ring close to it refreshment and other tents, a number of men on horseback, and two women besides myself. Mr. Yan-der-veen proposed to go with me to see another start, and told me that one of the horses in this particular race belonged to an old Boer who believed greatly in him. He said he was glad to see Boers doing this sort of thing it approached somewhat to civilization in short, he talked altogether so much as if he had nothing to do with the Boers in general, that I was much surprised when I heard afterwards that he was the son of a Boer. He and I then went to the Edinburgh Hotel, where I had put up my horse during my stay at Pretoria ; there we had lunch while the horses had a feed. I had been rather amused at Mr. Van-der-veen proposing this pro- ceeding, although I thought it a very good one. A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 131 By the end of the day the male portion of the com- munity were getting very lively, and rows were plentiful. Poor old Mr. Sturton participated unpleasantly in this part of the day's programme, for while the noise outside his window was unceasing, his hosts favoured him with snatches from " Bonnie Dundee/' and other ballads, until a late hour ; and Mrs. Sturton would not interfere, or allow me to interfere, because she thought it likely that if we did the invalid would be told to march the next morning, in spite both of his illness and the high rent he was paying. The next day I did not go to the races, as I thought the surroundings of the course would be too lively ; and on the third the waggons started on their homeward way. I remained behind, having affairs at Pretoria which, owing to all places of business being shut during the first two days of the races, I had been unable to get through before. I picked up the waggons at their first outspann, and had tea. Mr. Higgins had already arrived on horseback from Pretoria, and before we started James Higgins and his wife, with Alice and Harriett Sturton, in his covered-top cart, drawn by two good horses, came up ; and, after a short rest, I started for Moy-plas in their company, but on horseback. Half-way we stopped at a Boer's house, where I was asked to prescribe for the children, who were very ill with whooping-cough ; and by night-fall we reached Moy-plas once more. The waggons came in the next morning ; and in the afternoon Mr. Higgins, Arthur Sturton, and I started for home, leaving the rest to follow. Two events had taken place during our absence, both of them unpleasant. A neighbouring farmer, Do Kriiger K 2 132 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. brother of the well-known Paul had been murdered by one of his Kaffirs ; and a tremendous grass fire had swept up to within a yard or so of the house Surprise, and to within about three feet of Eclipse's stable ; it had even destroyed part of the rose hedge bordering the upper lands. The circumstances of Do Kriiger's (pronounced Kreer) death were singular. He had an old quarrel going on with some Kaffirs, who lived in a little kraal just where his property touched Mr. Higgins's. Of late the quarrel had been getting worse, the Kaffirs being very disobe- dient. They had lands given them to cultivate for their own use in lieu of payment (a common arrangement in the Trans- vaal), and the natural consequence was that they wanted to work on their own lands when their master wanted them to work on his. The letting of water was the imme- diate cause of dispute. Do wanted water let on his lands, whilst the Kaffirs persisted in spending their time letting it on theirs. At last Do, having made up his mind to go to the bush-veldt to see how his cattle were getting on there, thought he would make an example. He called on some of his neighbours, amongst others on William Sturton, to ask them to accompany him to the little kraal, as he meant to give the Kaffirs a good lesson. This was a common practice amongst the Boers before English rule. William Sturton declined, but several Boers agreed ; and the next day, saddling his horse and bidding good-bye to his wife, he started for the bush-veldt, intending to settle his quarrel with the Kaffirs en route. His friends joined him at his own house, and having all reached the little kraal, Do called the Kaffirs. One only came out of the hut, to whom Do said that he must immediately let on A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 133 water to the land. The Kaffir replied, that he would do so after he had watered his own, no doubt speaking dis- respectfully as well as disobediently. Upon this the Boers leapt off their horses and made a rush for the huts, forced their way in, overturning a small child, and seized the man who was particularly obnoxious to them ; but just as Do entered the house, a man of the name of Manell hit him over the head with a stick with a heavy knob at the end of it, here called a "knob-kirrie," and felled him. His friends were intent on belabouring the man they had caught ; but Do called out, " Leave him alone and help me out they have killed me." He walked a short way towards his house and crossed a spruit, then he said he must sit down. A large blood tumour had already formed behind the ear where he had been struck. He soon be- came unconscious, and died shortly after he was carried home. Strange to say, he received his death-blow on the very spot where his father had cruelly killed a Kaffir. His wife, a very fat woman, had seen her former husband brought home dead, killed by lightning. She went into convulsions and wept unceasingly, and did all the proper things to testify to the intensity of her grief on the occasion of Do's demise, and married for the third time six months after. The two men Manell, the one who killed him, and Paul, the one who was going to be beaten on hearing he was dead, ran away to Pretoria. They got there whilst we were there, and were caught whilst sitting by Mr. Higgins's camp-fire. After a long imprisonment Manell was hanged. The pretty farm of Surprise was a mass of black, with the ashes still lying on part, and the whitish effect they gave to the otherwise black prospect made it almost 134 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. ghastly. Fido and the other animals were all right, ex- cept Hough he was gone. It appears that he had got into one of the rooms when we were locking up the house, and had been shut in. The Kaffirs hearing him whining had, after two days, forced a window open and let him out, when he immediately rushed off to Eclipse's stable, and then down towards the valley, the way I used to ride. I therefore concluded that he had gone back to Mr. King's, whom he had left to come to me, and this was the case. Mr. King came up the next day, and told us that he had seen Rough sneaking about his cottage ; but I had not time to go down for him. The day after Mr. King came again, and brought his big dog. This dog knew me, and must have told Rough on returning home that I was at Surprise, for that very evening Roughy came running in at the door, and up to me. The old life began again, disturbed only by my con- stant inquiries about farms. There were, of course, plenty of people willing to sell if they could induce me to pay exor- bitantly ; but none of the Boers in the vicinity, who had good farms, were disposed to part with them at all. At Pretoria I had not been able to arrange anything. Shortly after our return the dreaded " lung-sickness " broke out among the cattle. Investigation proved that an ox had died of lung-sickness in the bush-veldt, but the fact had been hushed up by the Nell family, who swore it died of what they call here " heart-water," in order to save themselves trouble ; for it is of the utmost import- ance when a case of " lung-sickness " occurs, to innoculate the grown cattle, and to drench the young ones. They take the disease after these operations, but have it slightly and become "salted," that is, are not liable to have it A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. 135 again ; whereas if they take- the disease naturally (and if it once breaks out in a herd it is sure to run through it) they are most likely to die of it. It was also found that the Nells had let some of Mr. Higgins's cattle get into the kraal of a man whose bush-veldt farm touched Mr. Higgins's, and had let them remain there a whole night, although it was well known that there was lung-sickness in it. The worst part of the whole was, that when the disease broke out at Surprise they said it must have been caused by the malice of this very man (who was on bad terms with Mr. Higgins), for that he had buried the intestines of the cattle he had lost by " lung-sickness" close to the place where Mr. Higgins's cattle went to water. At first Mr. Higgins believed the story, but subsequently found it to be untrue. I had now an opportunity of seeing the operations of innoculating and drenching. The lungs of a " lung-sick " animal are smashed up, and the liquid from them strained through fine gauze. It is necessary to kill the animal in order to obtain the lungs in a proper state. For drenching, the liquid thus obtained is mixed with about two parts of water, and given to the animal as a drink about a bottle-full being used. For innoculation, a strip of linen, or more commonly cotton rag, is threaded through a packing-needle, dipped in the liquid, and drawn through the lower part of the tail like a seton ; or the tip of the tail is split, the rag inserted, and the wound bound up. Great inflammation ensues, the tail generally rotting off, more or less. I have seen oxen with no tails at all. Sometimes the inflammation produces swelling of the parts above and around the tail, and then the animal generally dies in great agony; one of Mr. Higgins's oxen died thus. If at the time of the 136 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. operation these parts be well smeared with tar, and in case of the inflammation spreading 1 very high, the animal be bathed every morning with salt and water, death sel- dom ensues; but few masters take so much trouble. The day when these operations took place at Surprise was a regular field-day, Mr. King, and Arthur Sturton, and the Nells coming to help. Some of the oxen and other cattle were very restive, and it was dangerous work for the men ; still, on the whole, I was surprised to see the business done so quietly. A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. CHAPTER XV. IN the beginning of November I at last decided to accept an offer Mr. Higgins had made me of buying half his farm, including the small house his father had hitherto occupied. I need not enter into the various reasons which induced me to do this, but need merely say that, all things considered, it appeared the best thing I could do, and that I bought the farm conditionally. I was not to pay the purchase-money for some months, and was to be free to leave the farm, if I chose to do so, before that time. I was to take Jimmy to live with me, as he and I had agreed ; and besides, I had engaged the services of a young Englishman who, with another, had come to Mr. Higgins's place looking for work. It was much to be suspected that they were deserters ; however, the one had evidently been a working farmer, and the other a groom ; so Mr. Higgins arranged to take the former, and I the latter. Before I left Surprise I was called upon to doctor one of William Sturton's children, the baby, who was dangerously ill with inflammation of the lungs. It had been ailing for some time, but not much notice was taken of its illness until one day, when, having ridden over to see the sick wife of a neighbouring Boer, I took William 138 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. Sturton's on my way home, and was shown the child. It was very ill then, but before two days were over it was so bad that I remained with it and Alice, and, later on, Mrs. Higgins came to nurse it. That was not my first experience of the misery of illness in this country, but yet I must revert to it, it made so painful an impression on me. A small house, consisting of two rooms and a kitchen ; one of the rooms used as a store and general sitting-room ; a father, mother, and three young children ; no servant but a dirty, more than half-savage Kaffir; no convenience of any sort ! Fancy nursing a baby, choking 1 with inflamed lungs, in a room where, if the window was opened, the draught could not do otherwise than come on the bed ; where the door into a draughty passage was being per- petually opened by the two elder children, who, when not quarrelling, were always crying, and both of whom had sore eyes and no one to look after them. If the window were kept shut the heat was stifling ; and so it became necessary to open a window at the top of the gable, which had been intended as the door of a loft, but which, owing to the ceiling not being put in, still opened into the room. I remember this was decided upon late in the evening when we were all suffocating, and to do it an enormous, roughly-made ladder had to be brought in by William Sturton and the Kaffir, and left in the room, so that we might be able to get up to shut the window if necessary. Even with this window open the heat was dreadful, and I felt the fever I had had badly in India, and the approach of which I was only too well acquainted with, creeping over me and prostrating me. After two days of incessant care, the baby so far recovered that it was out of immediate danger; but I was obliged A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. \ 39 to lie by for a day or two and even then I felt weak. On the 19th November, I at last moved into my new abode, oH Mr. Higgins and his family going to live at Pretoria. I bought his flock of sheep, and old Mrs. Higgins's fowls and two pigs ; and Ada, much to her regret, had to leave me her two cats, for the good reason that they positively refused to be put into the waggon. One was a fine grey-and- white torn, the other, Tom's mother, was a very ancient specimen of the feline race, with a crooked eye, and the most surprising voice a cat was ever gifted with. I was not able to afford as yet to buy a waggon or oxen, wishing first to feel my way, and there not being any immediate necessity for oxen, as it was not time for ploughing. I also tried to do with as little furniture as possible, and as few servants. A small bed and a dressing-table and washing-stand, made of old cases, together with a chair and a box, made up the furniture of my bedroom. The bed was lent by Mrs. Higgius. A deal table, three old chairs, and a horizontal piano, which had been old Mr. Higgius's, and which I used as a table, adorned the sitting-room ; while planks, supported on the rafters, gave standing room to various articles, and others of a very miscellaneous character were hung on nails and lines round the walls. The third little apartment, partitioned off like the others with canvas, was a lumber and forage room, and here Barrie the groom slept Jimmy sleeping sometimes in it, some- times in the sitting-room. As I mentioned before, doors there were none, except the outer one. A curtain hung over the entrance into my room alone ; windows also there were none, only large square holes in the wall, 140 A Lady Trader in the Transvaal. which could be closed at will by shutters of stretched canvas. Goat and sheep skins did the duty of carpets, and the skins of two tiger-cats and one wild cat which had been killed at Surprise, hung on an old folding arm- chair, completed the Robinson Crusoe look of the place. After experience of the same, I think a Robinson Crusoe cabin is nicer to read about than to live in; and yet sometimes of an evening, with the light of a dip made from the fat of my own sheep, lighting up, in the feeble manner of dips in general, the motley ornaments of bridles, saddles, bits, fire-arms, tools of various sorts hanging on the walls, and faintly showing the dogs crouching on the floor and the cats' heads peering from off the rafters overhead, I used to think that it would not make a bad picture of an African-squatter's