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 the 
 
 HI <&H PEAK
 
 StacR ' 
 
 Annex

 
 CHEE TOR. 

 
 .
 

 

 
 PICTURESQUE 
 
 EXCURSIONS 
 
 IN THE 
 
 HIGH PEAK OF DERBYSHIRE : 
 
 Forming a new 
 
 BUXTON AND CASTLETON 
 
 WITH DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNTS OF THE 
 
 SCENERY, CURIOSITIES, AND SINGULAR 
 OBJECTS, 
 
 In that most interesting part of the County of Derby. 
 
 ALSO, CONTAINING 
 
 A NEW THEORY 
 
 to account for 
 THE EBBING AND FLOWING WELL, , 
 
 SITUATED IN 
 
 Barmoor Clough, near Burton. 
 
 BY HENRY MOORE. 
 EMBELLISHED WITH NINE PLATES. 
 
 -There lies 
 
 i ueru 
 
 A Country that abounds with rarities. 
 They call them wonders there, and they be so ; 
 But the whole country sure' s a wonder too. 
 
 COTTON'S WONDERS OP THE PEAK . 
 
 DERBY : 
 
 .PUBLISHED BY H. MOORE, DRAWING-MASTER. 
 PRINTED BY T. WILKINSON, RIDGEF1ELD, MANCHESTER.
 
 ADVERTISEMENT, 
 
 1 HE Peak of Derbyshire, liad been regarded with an indif- 
 ference that marked a want of taste in the Artist, and an un- 
 common inattention in the man of science, until Wright in the 
 Artistical, and Whitehurst in the Scientific department, be- 
 stowed upon it that notice which its high character deserved. 
 However, the rapid progress of the liberal arts, and the gi- 
 gantic discoveries in science, have induced Scientific men to 
 pay more attention to this interesting district ; so that it now 
 attracts general admirat'on. Even they, whom a love of the 
 arts never warmed, or science refined to elevated feeling, ad- 
 mire its wonders. 
 
 There are many who cannot of themselves discover the 
 charms, which the open volume of nature presents, and yet, 
 who will pretend to admire and even to feel the influence of 
 their beauties ; and this merely, because they are generally 
 admired. The manners of such, amuse us by indicating their 
 various avocations in life. How readily do we discover by 
 his habits, and conversation, the rich cit, who enjoys at home 
 an easy chair, and the rise and fall of stocks ; the plodding 
 tradesman, who has escaped from counting-house drudgery ; 
 the careful farmer, who has amassed an independence by 
 industry; and the spendthrift, hastening an evil day by driving 
 care away ; all, are known by peculiarities that cannot be 
 mistaken. Even the mineralogist, the geologist, the antiquary, 
 the artist, and the real or pretended connoisseur, have their 
 characteristic marks. 
 
 To guide the great number of visitors, that annually re- 
 sort to the Peak of Derbyshire, for the benefit of its tepid 
 springs, or for the purpose of contemplating its grand moun- 
 tain scenery; its romantic dales of matchless Picturesque 
 beauty; its magnificent subterranean scenes; its antiquities, 
 and its curiosities ; is the Author's motive for publishing this 
 second series of his Excursions. 
 
 It has been a matter of surprise and regret, that a country 
 abounding with so much that is interesting to science and the 
 arts, should so long remain without a practical Guide . 
 
 2015176
 
 IV ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 and although regret may still be felt, that the deficiency has 
 not been supplied by one, whose abilities were more com- 
 petent to the task ; yet, the fluttering reception, that the first 
 series of the Writer's Excursions, (which were confined to 
 Matlock and its neighbourhood) has experienced ; being a test 
 of their usefulness ; has encouraged him to publish his Excur- 
 sions in the High Peak with some confidence of success. 
 
 Anomalous compilations consisting of gross piracies from 
 various authors, appearing in the form of original matter, have 
 been too long imposed upon the public, as " Guides." Al- 
 though such productions of closet travellers have been (till 
 lately) the only ones before the public, purporting to 'be 
 " Guides" to the stranger in the Peak : nevertheless, the ab- 
 sence of an original and really useful Director, cannot vindi- 
 cate the charlatanery of those Plagiaries. 
 
 These Ejccursvtus have resulted from many journeys in 
 the Peak, made by their writer for the purpose of sketching its 
 romantic scenery. He describes the different objects and par- 
 ticular scenes, as they occurred on his rambles, by which 
 means, he trusts they will be readily found by the stranger 
 And his opinion on the Picturesque beauty, of some scenas, 
 will be found to differ with other tourists. His ideas respect- 
 iag the Ebbing and Flowing ff^ll, will also be found at va- 
 riance with the generally adopted opinion of the cause of that 
 phenomenon ; but how far his ideas may be approved, must 
 be determined by the Public. 
 
 The writer is fully aware of his deficiency with respect to 
 composition, and must acknowledge that he is not much used, 
 to the conveying of ideas by the pen : he therefore, solicits 
 some indulgence, from the candour of his readers on that ac- 
 count ; but, if convicted of being a blind leader, and of his 
 pages being always uninteresting, he cannot hope for that 
 mercy from them, which a liberal Public is always ready to 
 grant to the industrious and unassuming candidate for its 
 . Approbation.
 
 BUXTON. 
 
 Appearance of the country around Button, and of its 
 Buildings ; general observations on the improve- 
 ments made by the late and the present Duke of 
 Devonshire^ Antiquity; the Crescent; St. Ann's 
 Well; Ann's Cliff; the Hall; the Baths; the 
 Square; the Stables and Circus; new Church; 
 Theatre and Amusements. 
 
 ALTHOUGH Buxton is encircled by dreary hills 
 that rear their dusky heads to the clouds, and the 
 prospect around is nearly destitute of sylvan beauty, 
 whilst the rude stone fences give a disagreeable 
 monotonous appearance to the inclosures ; and their 
 russet tint convey an idea of sterility even where fine 
 herbage is abundant ; yet the surrounding moun- 
 tains present many grand combinations of lines, and 
 the valleys abound with rich sequestered scenes, that 
 possess the highest degree of Picturesque beauty. 
 On approaching Buxton, by one of those steep 
 roads, that wind along the side of a heathy mountain, 
 whose stubborn sterility seems invincible ; we be- 
 come well pleased by the sudden appearance of this 
 famous watering place. Its beautiful buildings re- 
 fresh the eye, and the mind is elated by the instan- 
 taneous display of so much elegance, in the midst iof 
 what might be imagined a desert : we wonder at the
 
 6 
 
 appearance of classic temples ; of walks and drives 
 thronged by gay visitors, that give an animated 
 splendour to the place. 
 
 It must, however, be allowed, that some of the 
 surrounding hills, are assuming a milder appearance 
 from the influence of planting and cultivation : this, 
 with other improvements, effected by the late Duke 
 of Devonshire, has with the celebrity of its tepid 
 springs, rendered Buxton a place of fashionable re- 
 sort. When we contemplate that magnificent edi- 
 fice, the Crescent, the grand stables and circus, 
 the neat square, the beautiful church, and the various 
 walks and drives executed by the orders of that 
 nobleman, we cannot, otherwise, than regard them, 
 as memorials of a fine taste, and a liberal disposi- 
 tion ; we see no frivolity, nothing made up for 
 shew: all his undertakings bear the stamp of sub- 
 stantial grandeur, and required a princely fortune 
 to complete. 
 
 It is highly gratifying to perceive, by the im- 
 provements which are now carrying on, that his 
 Grace, the present Duke of Devonshire, is, with ex- 
 quisite taste, following up the noble example of his 
 illustrious father ; so that we may expect, Buxton 
 will shortly become a very splendid watering place. 
 
 Buxton appears from various concurring cir- 
 cumstances, to be a place of considerable antiquity ; 
 for there is sufficient evidence to support the conclu- 
 sion of its havLig been known to the Romans ; but 
 whether the Britons had a town there before the ar- 
 rival of those mighty conquerors is a question that 
 is involved in uncertainty. However, after mention-
 
 in? the grounds from which the conclusion are foun- 
 ded that Buxton was held by the Romans,- I shall 
 notice, what appears to be the only circumstance for 
 supposing the place to be of British origin : and 
 although the evidence in proof of the latter be not 
 near so conclusive as that of the former, yet it may 
 not be altogether unworthy of notice. Several ancient 
 roads concentrate at Buxton : one called the Bath- 
 way, or Bathom-gate, was connected with a Roman 
 station at Brough near Hope ; another has been: 
 traced to Manchester, which, in different parts of its 
 course is called High-street, Street-fields, Street- 
 lane, Old-gate, &c. another to Congleton, and one 
 to Little Chester, a Roman station close to the River 
 Derwent near Derby. The Romans usually fixed a 
 station where their roads intersected. The late Dr. 
 Gale placed the Aquis of Ravennas at Buxton, al- 
 though that antiquary had previously supposed it ta 
 be at Aidon in Northumberland. 
 
 Bisho;> Gibson noticed a Roman wall, cemented 
 with red Roman plaster ; likewise the ruins of an 
 ancient bath, close by St. Ann's Well. In the year 
 1709, when Sir Thomas Delves erected a stone al- 
 cove over the well as the memorial of a cure he had 
 obtained from the healing powers of the waters, large 
 leaden cisterns and various articles, apparently Ro- 
 man, were found; and in the year 1781 when the 
 workmen were preparing the ground for the erection 
 of the Crescent, the ancient bath was discovered : it 
 form was an oblong square, which measured 30 feet 
 by 15 feet, and atone end was a floodgate, by means 
 of which, the water could be let out at pleasure:
 
 $ 
 
 these circumstances form a mass of pretty clear evi- 
 dence that the Romans possessed Buxton. But the 
 idea of its being a British town before their arrival 
 in this country, must entirely depend upon the 
 strength of probability for support. From the num- 
 ber of druidical temples that now exist, and many 
 that have been destroyed in the High Peak, we may 
 fairly conclude that it was a populous district at a 
 remote period ; indeed, it cannot be supposed that 
 there would be so many temples, where the number 
 of inhabitants was small : and if the Druids posses- 
 sed such extensive knowledge, as is generally attri- 
 buted to them, it is not likely, that they would re- 
 main ignorant of the medicinal virtues, of the Buxton 
 waters. Many persons mii>ht, therefore, be induced 
 to reside near these springs, and thus a town would 
 soon be formed, where also, accommodations might 
 be afforded to the invalids whom the fame of the wa- 
 ters had induced to seek relief from their use. How- 
 ever remote might be the appropriation of these tepid 
 springs ; yet the silence of the Saxon and Monkish 
 annalists, respecting them, renders it probable, that 
 they were either disused or only in small repute in the 
 middle ages. Nor have we any record of their 
 having been in high estimation until the reign of 
 Queen Elizabeth, when the Earl of Shrewsbury erec- 
 ted a convenient house for the reception of visitants ; 
 a portion of this ancient fabric still remains, and 
 forms a part of the building now called the Hall. 
 Soon after it was completed, Dr. Jones gave a cel- 
 ebrity to the waters, by a treatise on their sanative 
 qualities ; it was entitled, Buxtones Bathes Bene-
 
 9 
 
 fyte, which cureth most grievous sickness, never 
 before published ; compiledbyJohnJoi.es, Physition 
 at the King's Mede near Derby, &c. 1572." Inthis 
 publication, Dr. Jones describes the building 1 , which 
 the Earl of Shrewsbury had recently finished, in the 
 verbose style of the age in which it was written, 
 thus : " Joyninge to the chiefe springe, betwene the 
 liver and the bathe, is a very goodly house, foure 
 square, foure stories hye, so well compacte with 
 houses of office beneath, and above, and round about, 
 with a great chambre and other goodly lodgings to 
 the number of thirty : that it is and will be a bwty 
 to beholde, and very notable for the honorable and 
 worshipfull that shall have neede to repaire thither, 
 as also for other. Yea the porest shall have lodg- 
 ings and beds hard by for their uses only." 
 
 " This building occasioned the waters to be 
 much more resorted to than heretofore by all ranks 
 of people. Mary, Queen of Scots, being at that 
 time in the custody of the Earl of Shrewsbury, was 
 brought along with him, and liis wife Elizabeth, in 
 one of his visits to this place, on which occasion 
 this heroic and unfortunate Princess applied to Bux- 
 ton, Caesar's verses upon Feltria, with some al- 
 teration : 
 
 Btixtona, fjuae calidae celobrare nomine lymphas, 
 Forte mini posthac non adeunda, vale." 
 * Buxton, whose fame thy milk-warm waters teU, 
 Whom I, perhaps, no more shall see, farewell."* 
 As the fame of the waters became extended, the 
 
 * Cough's additions to the Britannia.
 
 10 
 
 demand for accommodations increased ; and the Hall 
 proving insufficient to supply them, a great part of 
 it was taken down, and an enlarged editiee com- 
 pleted, for the reception of visitants, about the year 
 1670, by William, third Earl of Devonshire. But 
 the grand and highly finished improvements remained 
 for the fine taste of the late and present Duke of 
 Devonshire to accomplish : accordingly in the year 
 1781 the building of that superb edifice, the Crescent, 
 commenced. It is of the Doric order, and was 
 executed under the superintendence of the late Mr. 
 Car of York ; of whose great skill as an architect 
 this building bears sufficient testimony. It has three 
 stories ; in the lower one there is a rusticated arcade 
 that forms an agreeable promenade in unfavourable 
 weather ; above the arches an elegant balustrade 
 stretches along the whole front and 'he ends of the 
 fabric : over the piers of the arcade, arise fluted doric 
 pilasters, that support the architrave and cornice, 
 the trygliphs in the architrave, and the rich plancer 
 of the cornice, have a beautiful appearance: the ter- 
 mination above the cornice is formed by another 
 balustrade that extends along the whole building ; 
 in the centre of which, are the Duke's arms finely 
 sculptured. In the space between the windows of 
 the second and third stories runs an enriched string- 
 course. The flaor of the arcade is several feet higher 
 than the gravelled area, between which communica- 
 tions are formed by seven different flight.-, of steps. 
 The span tf the Crescent is two hundred fret, and 
 each wing measures fifty-eight feet three inches; 
 making the whole extent of the front, three hundred
 
 11 
 
 and sixteen feet six inches ; and it is adorned with 
 fifty-two fluted pilasters. 
 
 It contains three hotels respectively called St. 
 Ann's, the Centre, and the great Hotel, likewise a 
 Library and News Room which is kept by Mr. Moore, 
 who furnishes an excellent selection of books for 
 general reading. The great Hotel contains a very 
 elegant assembly room, which is 75 feet 6 inches 
 loiu, 30 feet 2 inches wide, and 30 feet high. It 
 has a coved ceiling, and is richly ornamented with 
 plaster work, and adorned with two superb glass 
 chandeliers. 
 
 Near to the western end of the Crescent is St. 
 Ann's well, a beautiful little building in the Grecian 
 style; it is terminated with an elegant urn. Here 
 the water is usually taken ; visitants are served with 
 it by the well- women, whose attendance is so ar- 
 ranged that there is alwavs one of them in waiting ; 
 they are very attentive to every comer in, to whom 
 they quickly present a glass of water from the limpid 
 stream, which flows from a pipe into a neat basin of 
 white Italian marble. It is sweet and pleasant to 
 the taste, and distinctly perceived to be warm on 
 drinking. Few visitants, perhaps, depart from 
 Buxton, without leaving some token of approbation, 
 with these females for their active attentions. Close 
 by this building is a double pump, from which both 
 warm and cold water is obtained, within the space 
 of twelve inches from each other : this was formerly 
 regarded as one of the seven wonders of the Peak ; 
 but later discoveries amongst the wonders of nature 
 have with the great progress of science; now much
 
 12 
 
 reduced the importance of those wonders of the 
 wonder-making age.* 
 
 The square is a handsome mass of building situa- 
 ted at the back of the Crescent, but connected with it 
 by an arcade, which is also continued along three 
 eides of the square, forming a covered walk of 
 considerable extent; neatness and simplicity of style 
 characterise this pile, which consists of a series of 
 shops and lodging houses ; for the latter purpo*e 
 their contiguity to the Baths renders them extremely 
 convenient. 
 
 The new stables, now claim our notice ; it is 
 a large pile of building, in the form of a square, 
 with the corners taken off, making an irregular octa- 
 gon, but whose opposite sides, are equal ; within it, 
 is a circular area, around which is an elegant co- 
 lonade that forms a covered ride, one hundred and 
 sixty yards round x and three yards and a half wide, 
 where company take exercise on horseback in un- 
 pleasant weather. These grand stables accord well 
 with the magnificence of the Crescent, and belong' 
 to its different, Hotels. Near the stables is a very 
 spacious repository for carriages where those vehicles 
 are completely sheltered. 
 
 The New Church is an elegant structure execu- 
 ted after the Tuscan order. The east front has large 
 columns supporting a massive pediment, in the ex- 
 ecution of which, very large blocks of stone have 
 
 * The other reputed wonders are, Poole's Hole, Eldon 
 Hole, the Peak Cavern, Mam Tor, or the Shivering Moun- 
 tain, Chatsworth, and tbe Ebbing and Flowing Well.
 
 13 
 
 been used ; the masonry is excellent, and the building 
 has altogether an air of substantial grandeur : the 
 interior is elegantly finished, and in a style that is 
 extremely chaste. All the angles of the edifice are 
 rusticated, with huge blocks of stone. The west 
 end is ornamented with an elegant tower, and the 
 whole building, is very properly surrounded by a 
 broad pavement, that is brought close up to its wall. 
 It would have been well, if our ancestors had 
 attended to a similar plan, which is so well calculated 
 to prevent inhumation (except by means of vaults), 
 close to the walls of the church, and to preserve 
 the basement from being buried in the manner that 
 those of most of our beautiful tiothic churches are, 
 by which, the appearance of the buildings becomes 
 greatly injured, whilst their interiors are rendered 
 very damp by accumulations of earth above their floors. 
 It is therefore, (o be hoped that so judicious a plan 
 may be adopted in the future erection of Churches. 
 The Crescent, the Stables, the Square, and the 
 Church, are the principal buildings erected by the 
 late Duke of Devonshire ; they are constructed of 
 fine free stone produced in the neighbourhood. The 
 Duke is said, to have expended ^120,000 in com- 
 pleting the Crescent and Stables, about thirty years 
 ago, which is prehaps equal at least twice that amount 
 at the present time. Besides the Crescent and the 
 square, Buxton contains many other accommoda- 
 tions adapted to every description of visitors : the 
 most elegant, suited to the highest rank ; the plain 
 for the middle class ; and the most economical, for 
 the poorer. The Hall is a very excellent hotel, and
 
 14 
 
 the Grove, the George, the Arijjel, the Eagle, and the 
 Shakespear are comfortable Inns. 
 
 There are six Baths at Buxton, of the natural 
 heat of the spring's ; one public and two private for 
 gentlemen; one public and one private for ladies; 
 and the charity bath. There are also two hot baths, 
 which have been lately erected, that can be expedi- 
 tiously heated to any degree that is requisite for 
 bathing. The water is exceedingly pellucid, but on 
 standing to cool in a glass it is perceived to become 
 dim assuming rather a milky appearance : on being 
 heated again it recovers its former transparency. 
 Another remarkable circumstance attending this 
 water, is, that bubbles are continually rising from 
 the crevices at the bottom of the bath (from whence 
 the water issues into it,) to the surface, in a very ir- 
 regular manner, sometimes they rise in single bub- 
 bles, then in clusters or in a stream The water 
 being suffered to stand a short time, in any vessel, 
 the sides of it will be covered with small bubbles. 
 
 The springs throw up about sixty gallons of 
 water per minute. 
 
 According to Dr. Pearson's analysis of the Bux- 
 ton water, it appears, that a gallon of it, on evapora- 
 tion produced sixteen grains v of sediment, of which 
 eleven grains and a half were calcarious earth, two 
 grains and a half vitriolic selenite, and one grain 
 and three quarters sea-salt. 
 
 The following is a later analysis of Buxton water, 
 which is from Nicholson's Dictionary of chemistry. 
 
 " Tliis is a hot water, resembling that of Bris- 
 tol. It raises the thermometer to 8l p . or 82."
 
 15 
 
 "It has a sweet and pleasant taste. 
 
 " It contains 1,75 grains of muriate of soda, 25 
 grains of sulphate of lime, and 10,5 grains of carbo- 
 nate of lime in the wine gallon. It contains likewise 
 a sixty-fourth of its bulk of air, which is chiefly nitro- 
 gen gas, mixed with a little atmospheric air." 
 
 The Buxton water is a particularly efficacious 
 remedy for the cure of that great affliction to which 
 mankind are subject, the rheumatism ; its fame in 
 this respect stands unrivalled ; the gout and palsy 
 are also relieved by it. It is also found serviceable 
 in nephritic, bilious disorders, and debility of the 
 stomach and intestines. 
 
 On plunging into the bath a slight shock is re- 
 ceived which is succeeded by an agreeable warmth : 
 the time for remaining in the bath should not exceed 
 four minutes, as its relaxing powers then begin to 
 operate ; before breakfast, is recorded to be the best 
 time for bathing ; and it is recommended, never to 
 enter the bath immediately after drinking the water, 
 or eating. Exercise is also recommended previous 
 to immersion ; and but few disorders require the 
 bath oftener than once in twenty four hours. 
 
 On the first use of these waters the head be- 
 comes affected, with a kind of giddiness, attended 
 with a fulness of body and drowsiness ; however, 
 after using them a few days, these sensations go off; 
 and persons afflicted with rheumatism experience 
 an increase of their pains for several days after 
 using them, but this is said to be no unpromising 
 symptom ; the brush and pump are also applied to 
 particular parts that may be affected.
 
 16 
 
 Patients should be cautious of making too liberal 
 a use of the water which " when drank in any con- 
 siderable quantity, occasions many feverish symp- 
 toms, and is found to possess a binding and heating 1 
 quality. In the observations on Buxton water, by 
 Dr. Denman are some judicious'direclions, founded 
 on his own practice. He considers it as a more 
 active remedy than is generally supposed ; and not 
 only dissuades from its use in all inflammatory and 
 feverish complaints, but likewise limits the quantity 
 to be taken, in cases where its use is efficacious, to 
 a moderate portion. In common, he observes, two 
 glasses, each of the size of the third part of a pint, 
 are as much as ought to be drank before breakfast, 
 at the distance of forty minutes beiween each : and 
 one -or two of the same glasses between breakfast 
 and dinner will be quite sufficient. With respect to 
 bathing, he recommends for invalids, the time be- 
 tween breakfast and dinner as the most proper ; and 
 directs that the prescribed, or usual exercise, should 
 be taken before going into the bath : the water never 
 to be drank immediately previous to bathing." 
 
 In one of the rooms the following verses were 
 found written upon the wall by a physician who visi- 
 ted the place. 
 
 " Corpora debilior Grani se proluit undis : 
 Quserit aquas Aponi, quera febris atra necat : 
 Ut penitus renem pur - et; cur Pmulia tanti, 
 Vel, quae lucinae gaudia, Culderiae ? 
 Sola milii Buxtona placit : Buxtona Britanni* 
 Undae Grani, Aponu.s, I'saulia, Calderae. " 
 
 " In Gran's fam'd baths the feeble patient laves; 
 Whom dismal fevers seize, in Apon's waves.
 
 17 
 
 At PsaulSa shall a purge so dear be bought? 
 For teeming throes Calderiae far be sought ? 
 When here at Buxton (Britain's choice) appear 
 Gran, Apoo, Psaulia, and Calderise,* near. " 
 
 His Grace the Duke of Devonshire has lately 
 erected two hot baths at the north-east end of the 
 Crescent ; where the water is expeditiously heated 
 by means of steam, to any degree necessary for bath- 
 ing; and the complete manner in which the apparatus 
 performs that operation, reflects great credit on the 
 scientific skill of its designer, Mr. Silvester, of Der- 
 by. These baths are lined with, Italian marble and 
 Porcelain tiles, which give them a very elegant 
 appearance. 
 
 Persons who resort to the Duke's houses, have 
 the exclusive privilege of bathing before nine o'clock. 
 There is a charitable 1 Institution in Buxton, the 
 funds, of which are raised by collecting one shilling 
 from every visitant who stays more than one day in 
 the place ; from which fourteen indigent persons 
 (who come furnished with proper certificates signed 
 by the ministers of their respective parishes and 
 medical attendants, stating them to be proper objects 
 of charity) bathe, i-ratis, at the baih appropriated to 
 the use of the poor, and are furnished with proper 
 medicines ; and each receives six shil ings per week 
 for four weeks. Two charity sermons are usually 
 preached in the season, when collections are made 
 in aid of the funds of the Institution. 
 
 The means by which the finances of this cha- 
 
 * Places abroad noted for the virtue of their waters. 
 B 2
 
 18 
 
 rity is supplied, is a treble appeal to the feelings of 
 many persons ; viz. bodily, mental, and religious ; 
 surely those who experience the excruciating pain of 
 a violent disorder, and here find an alleviation of 
 their misery ; must, acutely feel the powerful claims 
 of poverty, labouring under a similar affliction, whom 
 their bounty will tend to relieve ; it would, there- 
 fore, be an unpardonable inattention to fellow-suf- 
 fering for those who possess the means, to neglect 
 the opportunity of aiding so laudable an institution. 
 Nearly two hundred persons, annually, partake of 
 this charity, which circumstance shows the great 
 importance of a small individual subscription. 
 
 The improvements that are now carrying on 
 upon Ann's cliff, a hill fronting the Crescent, are of 
 a truly elegant description, and, when finished will 
 eminently display the fine taste, and munificence of 
 his grace the Duke of Devonshire. A series of terrace 
 walks, one above another, sweep in a circular direc- 
 tion to agree with the convex form of the hill, and 
 communicate with each other by means of a flight of 
 steps at each end and in the centre of the different 
 walks. The summit is to be terminated by an 
 elegant ornamental building ; so that when finished 
 the whole will most happily harmonize with the 
 grandeur of the Crescent. The design for this 
 grand work was furnished by Mr. Wyatt, whose 
 eminence as an architect is so well known as to ren- 
 der eulogy superfluous ; therefore, such ability being 
 engaged in the undertaking may be considered a 
 sufficient ensurance, that the whole, when finished, 
 will display a symmetrical design regulated by refi- 
 ned taste.
 
 19 
 
 When Mr. Pilkino;ton wrote his view of the 
 present state of Derbyshire, there was a low or bar- 
 row, on the top of Ann's cliff which he describes thus. 
 " Here is a low, or barrow, of a different shape 
 from any which I have seen in Derbyshire. It is 
 long, narrow at the top, and slants off at the sides 
 and ends: the length at the bottom is about fifteen 
 yards ; and the breadth six yards ; its height is 
 about two yards. This barrow is encompassed by 
 a ditch nearly six yards wide ; and has a cavity about 
 six yards in diameter, and one in depth, at each end 
 near the south-west and north-west corners." 
 
 " The late Rev. Mr. Watson, rector of Stock- 
 port, in a letter written to Mr. Pegge in the year 
 1782, observes that the remains of an ancient settle- 
 ment, supposed by him to be Roman, was visible on 
 this piece of ground." 
 
 The amusements at Buxton consist of hunting 
 and shooting ; plays, assemblies, card parties, and 
 billiards. An extensive common, about two miles 
 from Buxton furnishes a variety of game ; hares, 
 grouse, partridges, sn'pcs, dottrel, and plover, which 
 will afford some diversion to those who are partial 
 to shooting. There is a subscription pack of har- 
 riers kept by the neighbouring nentry, for hunting, 
 which, in this hilly district, with stone fences, will 
 prove a novel diversion to those who have always 
 been accustomed to hunt in a comparatively flat 
 country where the fences are formed by hedges, from 
 the contrast being so very striking. 
 
 There is a dress Bail on Wednesday, and undress 
 Balls on Monday and Friday in each week during the
 
 20 
 
 season. Here is also an elegant Card Room adjoin- 
 ing the Assembly Room which is open every evening. 
 The Theatre is a very mean looking building, 
 but the interior is neatly fitted up ; and the company 
 of performers very respectable: so that the kernel 
 proves good, although the shell is unpromising. 
 
 The Serpentine Walks commence opposite to the 
 square, winding on each side of the river Wye, which 
 is here a very small stream, but whose murmuring 
 cascades, give sweet invitation to these rural retreats, 
 where retired from the crowd, contemplation may 
 enjoy her musings, or gaiety trip, well- pleased, 
 along the vermicular paths. 
 
 On a still evening when the Moon sheds her sil- 
 ver radiance around, this will prove a de ightful walk 
 to those who can enjoy a solitary ramble : small 
 parts then, become united with the surrounding 
 mountains, and form immense masses, that are 
 truly sublime, and serve powerfully, to inspire the 
 mind with great ideas, and raise it to the contempla- 
 tion tof things divine. 
 
 Between the trees Cynthia shoots her pale 
 beams, that sportive dance on the purling stream, 
 and which meet the eye in many twinkling rays. 
 
 The rural symphony produced by the continual 
 murmer of the cascades, and the dying vibrations of 
 the distant village bells ; whose plaintive cadences, 
 strike the ear with varied strength, as we thread the 
 winding paths ; gives a soo'hing melody that stills 
 every harsh idea raises the mind to heavenly musing 
 and supplif* those exquisite associations by -which 
 it feels abstracted roving in a better world holding 
 delightful converse with superior beings.
 
 21 
 
 " O! for a spark of that immortal flame, 
 Which fir'd a Newton's breast ! that, while I stray, 
 Amid these solemn shsdes, and view yon lamp 
 Of heaven, with all the stars that spangle, 
 O'er the sty, my soul may rise beyond this 
 Lower world, and hold sweet converse with its God." 
 These walks are very tastefully laid out, and deco- 
 rated with a thriving plantation ; which, with their 
 amenity render them very attractive. On en- 
 tering the walk* we perceive the Wye running 
 through a tunnel underneath the Crescent ; its 
 source (called Wye Head) is a small limestone rock 
 situated in a field not quite half a mile off. It is 
 however soon joined by a more considerable stream, 
 called Cary Brook, which has its rise from a bleak 
 moor, aud some coal-pits which are several miles 
 distant. It is an ocherous water, which gives a yel- 
 low tinge to the stones that lie in its channel. 
 
 The Old Church at Buxton is a very mean 
 building. It fermerly contained a statue of St. 
 Anne to whom, the superstition of former times at- 
 tributed the miraculous power of performing all the 
 cures that the medicinal qualities of the waters had 
 effected : convalescents offered up their crutches to 
 the saint, and the church became decorated with a 
 great many of those emblems of disease. This ob- 
 ject of superstitious veneration was destroyed at the 
 reformation, when the votive crutches were also 
 taken away: however since that time the waters have 
 been found to possess all those healing powers that 
 were attributed to the saint. 
 
 This church is now used for a school : it was 
 dedicated to St. John, but before the reformation
 
 22 
 
 St. Anne was its patron : the ostensible object of 
 this change of the patron saint, was for the purpose 
 of tearing away the film of superstition that clouded 
 the minds of the lower classes of the community ; 
 the removal of a primary cause was certainly the 
 most likely means, to effect that intention ; yet this 
 change did not entirely eradicate the remembrance 
 of St. Anne ; so prone was human nature to super- 
 stition that it still clung to its object and the name 
 of St Anne, was kept appended to the well, and re- 
 tained in the appellation of the hill in front of the 
 Crescent : although those names are still continued 
 yet the superstition, has, long since, vanished 
 away. 
 
 EXCURSION 
 
 TO POOLE'S HOLE, GRINLOW, (ITS SINGULAR APPEAR- 
 ANCE AND CURIOUS HUTS) DIAMOND HILL, AX EDGE, 
 MOUNTAIN STREAM, BOGGY SUMMIT Of THATCH- 
 MARSH, RIVER GOIT, AND GOIT CLOUGH. 
 
 AT the distance of about half a mile south-west 
 from Buxton, Grinlovv is easily to be distinguished 
 from the surrounding hills ; it is rendered very re- 
 markable by being covered with large heaps of lime 
 ashes, and a number of lime-kilns clouds of smoke 
 roll heavily from them the russet hill has a very
 
 23 
 
 ruinous aspect ; and in fancy's eye, it has the ap- 
 pearaiiCB of a volcano smal curling columns of smoke 
 issue from various heaps of ruins which imagination 
 soon attributes to lava coming in contact with some- 
 thing inflammable in its progress down the hill ; ne 
 become much surprised to find, on visiting the spot, 
 that the smoke issues from human habitations, scoop- 
 ed out of the heaps of lime ashes, that have become 
 case-hardened by the weather and thereby rendered 
 impervious to the rain. These dwellings have a very 
 singular effect ; and so forcibly convey the idea of 
 being primitive habitations, that we cannot forbear 
 thinking them the abodes of a race of beings, in a 
 state of barbarity. A few years time will make a 
 considerable alteration in the appearance of this 
 hill, as his Grace the Duke of Devonshire has caused 
 it to be very thickly planted, but the trees at present 
 are so very small that they are scarcely perceiveable. 
 In this hill is situated a curious cavern called 
 Poolers Hole, from a traditional tale that it became 
 the retreat of an outlaw, named Poole, who here 
 eluded the search of his pursuers. It is a very spa- 
 cious natural cavity, situated in the limestone, the 
 entrance forms a striking contrast to that of the 
 Peak Cavern at Castleton, which is spacious and 
 grand : this is mean and contracted ; however, the 
 interior abounds with a curious variety of objects 
 and extremely wild subterranean scenery, that is 
 sometimes very capacious and grand, so that, alto- 
 gether, it will be found well worth investigating. 
 The entrance is by a, narrow passage, where I found 
 it necessary to stoop, as 1 proceeded ; and my guide,
 
 24 
 
 an old woman, presently shewed me the turtle 
 which is a mass of stalagmite, that approaches 
 somewhat towards the form of one. The next ohject 
 is Poole's saddle, which is very like one, but it is 
 rather injured hy people breaking pieces off; a little 
 further is the petrified tripe, where the water in 
 trickling down leaves the surface so regularly waved 
 as to give it an appearance resembling tripe j here 
 we also see a hole in the stone worn by water con- 
 stantly falling in single drops on that part, shewing 
 what may be effected by perseverance. We next 
 come to the petrifying spring, Poole's chair, and 
 the flitch of bacon ; these are about one hundred and 
 twenty yards from the entrance ; the vault is now 
 very capacious ; on the bottom the rocks are jum- 
 bled together in great disorder and the sides are 
 covered with stalactite in a very grotesque manner. 
 Another lump of stalagmite is called squire Cotion's 
 hay-cock, from being named the hay-cock by Mr. 
 Cotton ; this is half way up the cave. Another mass 
 of the same substance is called the font, where the 
 guide says, Poole christened his children. A ship 
 sailing, is the next object pointed out ; but I could 
 not fancy the least resemblance. The next object, 
 is the rude form of a lion, which bears some resem- 
 blance to one ; it is stationed near the lady's dressing- 
 table, as a centinel to keep off " each vagrant foot, 
 and each licentious eye." 
 
 The carved rock is the next object to be noticed, 
 it is covered with stalactites ; the organ pipes are 
 here pointed out; also Poole's horse ; but its head 
 is now broken off; yet the resemblance in other
 
 25 
 
 respects is tolerabie. The cave now becomes much 
 narrower, and continues so, to the Queen of Scot's 
 Pillar, an enormous stalactite ; as far as which, that 
 unfortunate Princess in one of her visits to Buxton 
 is said to have ventured, in order to explore the 
 cave ; underneath it is a huge mass of stalagmite. 
 Here my guide informed me, that few people ven- 
 tured beyond the pillar : that herself and five other 
 old women, who shared the money derived from 
 conducting strangers into the cave, were all become 
 very inactive, and had not been to the end, for 
 several years ; that climbing up the rocks, now 
 fatigued them very much, and that it was a very 
 difficult climbing job, for about the distance of 
 eighty yards. I therefore proceeded without my in- 
 firm guide. From the pillar 1 descended a little, but 
 with some difficulty, over some disjointed rocks, 
 and then proceeded to scramble up the disordered 
 masses of slippery craggs ; on reaching the ex- 
 tremity I perceived several names written upon the 
 rock. Having satisfied my curiosity, here, I began 
 to return by/the way which 1 expected would con- 
 duct me back ; but found no passage : I tried ano- 
 ther part but without success ; then made a third 
 effort, and still no road could I find ; in several 
 other attempts my efforts were still unsuccessful ; 
 and now a drop of water from the roof struck the 
 flame of my candle; it fizzed and nearly expired. 
 I now began to be very cautious, lest darkness 
 should envelope me in a place where, by a false step, 
 I might slip down between the rude masses of rocks, 
 hat are here thrown into very great confusion ; on
 
 26 
 
 making another effort, to find the hole by which I 
 had entered this part of the cave, 1 heard my guide 
 call, I answered " lost my way," upon which she 
 said 'keep where you are and I'll come ' however 
 I continued my search, and after some time 1 per- 
 ceived the light of my guide's candle helow, which 
 shewed the small opening by which I had entered ; 
 when, I called to the poor old creature to spare her 
 wearied limbs any further trouble, as I perceived 
 my deliverance at hand. My mistake arose from 
 not descending when I began to return ; on the 
 contrary I kept ascending which brought me into 
 other craggy chambers, through which there was 
 no passage, my guide informed me that two gen- 
 tlemen had, in the same manner lost their way this 
 summer. On descending, my guide directed me 
 through the eye of St. Andrew's needle, which 1 
 had clambered over in going, however to pass 
 through it was by far the easier way ; it is formed 
 by a huge block of limestone, that lies in an ob- 
 lique direction against others, in such a manner, as 
 to leave a small passage underneath it. Returning 
 from the Queen of Scots Pillar at the distance of 
 about twenty yards, is the Bee Hive, a mass of 
 stalagmite that in its shape very much resembles 
 one ; but here no vivifying sun is felt ; nor fragrant 
 flowers shed their odours around ; or balmy zephyrs 
 fan the gloom, to entice the industrious inmates 
 forth : all are fixed by the chilling wand of Comus, 
 and here is no Sabrina to set them free. My guide 
 now brought me through another passage, imme- 
 diately underneath the part I had traced before, and 
 pointed out the Two-headed Giant, consisting of
 
 27 
 
 two large round lumps of stalactite, one immediately 
 upon the other, which being larger than the rest of 
 the figure, it becomes a sorry resemblance. The 
 next object is a Crocodile in the water, which 1 
 walked upon, and found the animal very peaceable. 
 The Wool Packs are next observed-; they are im- 
 mense masses of stalagmite that grow in a very 
 remarkable manner from the side of the cave, and 
 we pass under a part of the projecting mass. 
 Poole's Closet, Chamber, and Cellar, and, near 
 the entrance, his Shelf, which is a curious forma- 
 tion of the rock, are also recommended to notice. 
 This is a very extraordinary cave, opening into 
 spacious vaults ; its rocks are extremely rude and 
 slippery, which renders it, rather difficult to explore, 
 particularly beyond the Queen of Scots Pillar. It 
 will be found curious, to observe, how the great 
 masses of stalagmite are accumulating, from the 
 drippings of water, and the various grotesque 
 forms that they assume on the sides, the bottom, 
 and the roof of the cave ; in short this is a natural 
 curiosity, that will afford amusement to every visitor. 
 It has a character very different to the Peak Cavern, 
 at Castleton, and extends 2007 feet from the 
 entrance. 
 
 On the hill near the cave, some of those dwel- 
 lings, that are scooped out of the lime ashes, may 
 be perceived ; a rude chimney, starting out of the 
 ground, consisting of a few rough stones, piled up, 
 with grass growing close to them, appears extremely 
 singular. I now followed the lane which brought 
 me into the Leek road, passing by the end of 
 Grinlow, where there is a considerable lime work.
 
 28 
 
 The appearance of certs and horses at the top of 
 loose heaps of lime rubbish, in a lofty situa- 
 tion, seems very perilous ; as the shivery heaps 
 of rubbish appear too fragile, to sustain them, 
 so that we feel concerned for their safety : here is 
 also seen several other dwellings burrowed in the 
 lime ashes. Beyond Grinlow, I crossed over a few 
 inclosures on the left, to Diamond Hill ; where, in 
 a soft soil, I picked up some of those beautiful 
 quartz crystals, called Buxton Diamonds ; some of 
 which were very perfect hexagonal prisms, termina- 
 ted at each end by a pyramid ; they were very trans- 
 parent, and some of them of a pink colour, I also 
 found a few perfect cubes of fluor, of a dirty brown 
 colour. These crystals being found perfect, and de- 
 tached, is a singular circumstance, and perhaps pe- 
 culiar to this spot. From hence, 1 returned to the 
 Leek road, which runs along the lower part of Axe 
 Edge, a very lofty mountain, rising to the height 
 of 1,100 feet above the level of the baths at Bux- 
 ton, and 2,100 feet above the level of the river 
 Derwent, at Derby : it consists of grit-stone, 
 upon which is a stratum of peat-moss, of conside- 
 rable thickness : numerous springs issue from the 
 mountain, whose waters congregate in the valley, 
 and form the river Dove, at Dove- Head, a small 
 hamlet in the bottom, where it runs through a nar- 
 row glen, and forpns the boundary line of the 
 counties of Derby and Stafford, until it joins the 
 Trent; flowing through the beautiful Berresford 
 Dale, near Hartington, and the romantic Dove 
 Dale, near Ashburn. The summit of Axe Edge, 
 was completely enveloped in clouds ; in a clear atrnos-
 
 29 
 
 phere it is said, to command a very extensive pros- 
 pect into Staffordshire, Cheshire, and Lancashhe, 
 bounded by the Welsh mountains, and, that the 
 light-house at Bidston, beyond Liverpool, may 
 also to be seen with a glass. 
 
 At a sudden turn of the road, an amber co- 
 loured stream comes gurgling over ledges of grit- 
 stone, between two mountains, in a manner so 
 pleasingly%wild, as induced me to follow its ver- 
 micular course, up the hill ; in one place it springs 
 up from the peat-moss j with an ebullition that re- 
 sembles boiling water ; at length I reached the bog- 
 gy summit of Thatchmarsh ; and now my ramble 
 assumed a desultory character. The boggy summit 
 of a high mountain, was a scene so novel to me, 
 that I resolved to wander a little upon it, although 
 the weather was extremely unfavourable. 1 pre- 
 sently came upon a newly made road, which in some 
 places proved very elastic from being laid upon the 
 peat-moss ; and now an extensive boggy plain is 
 spread before me, with innumerable channels cut 
 in it by the streams, that flow in every direction, 
 whose chocolate colour, is given by the peat-moss. 
 It seems beyond the power of human art to bring 
 this dreary and ungenial waste into a state of culti- 
 vation. Following the new' road, it finally led me 
 into the Congleton turnpike road, which I pursued 
 towards Buxton for about the distance of half a 
 mile, and then turned to the left tor the Macclesfield 
 road, where I came to the little river Goit, whose 
 waters were falling over an irregular bed of grit- 
 stone, in a manner so very picturesque, as to entic^ 
 C2
 
 30 
 
 me to follow it nearly to its source in Goit Moss ; 
 heavy rain had swollen the stream and much in- 
 creased its interest. On its banks the peat-moss is 
 observed from six to nine feet in thickness, its dark 
 colour forms a striking contrast to the grit- stone 
 that lies immediately underneath it. 1 now deter- 
 mined to trace the stream downward ; it accompanies 
 the turnpike road, for about half a mile, and then 
 turns suddenly to the left, down Goit dough ; at 
 this turn another stream joins it; and the banks 
 assume a grotesque appearance, from being com- 
 posed of vast beds of shale, which are worn by the 
 streams and decomposition by the atmosphere. The 
 hills on each side the clough are dreary, and some- 
 times craggy, but their forms are lumpish, and are 
 far from being picturesque. Numerous rills issue 
 from them which fall into the river ; at one point in 
 the clough, a fall on each side of the river directly 
 opposite to each other is seen pouring from a con- 
 siderable height. All along, the river wildly dashes 
 over ledges of rocks and stones, that lie in its 
 course ; affording numberless little falls, that form 
 interesting studies to an artist, and are admirably 
 adapted for the purpose of enriching foregrounds : 
 the water, perhaps, may not be unaptly termed a 
 decoction of the peat-moss ; where it falls in thin 
 sheets over the rocks, it is of a fine amber colodr, 
 but where it forms a greater body, the tone it as- 
 sumes is a deep transparent brown. Approaching 
 night, now urged me to return, or I should have 
 followed this little brawling river still further. Its 
 interest was considerably heightened by the heavy 
 rain that had recently fallen : but in continued dry
 
 31 
 
 weather its attractions, I judge, may be trifling. 
 The whole day has proved, gloomy, nor did the sun 
 once peep forth to enliven the scene : yet in the 
 midst of all unfavourable circumstances, the novelty 
 of the scenery creates much interest ; and although 
 the varieties of light and shade were wanting, yet 
 1 felt highly gratified with my ramble. 
 
 " Now twilight slowly o'er the landscape steals, 
 And solemn gloom each fading shape conceals." 
 Ere I had traced half my way to Buxton, darkness 
 with rapid strides gained fast upon me. 
 
 " Now the blind Night, enwrap'd in gloom profound, 
 Ope's all her hundred ears to catch each sound 
 That feebly trembles o'er the air." 
 The mountains now appear one vast blot, whilst 
 the twinkling lights in various cottages serve to 
 give an idea of the immense depth of their shade. 
 " Confounded colour sinks upon the plain, 
 And growing darkness spreads her ray less reign." 
 
 EXCURSION 
 
 TO CHATSWORTH ; BY THE LOVER* S LEAP, IN ASH- 
 WOOD DALE, TADD1NGTON, TADDINGTON DALE, 
 LOWER PART OP MONSAL DALE, THE MARBLE MILLS, 
 ASHFORD, AND EDENSOR ; RETURN BT HASSOP, 
 WARDLOW, WARDLOW DALE, TIDESWELL, WHES- 
 TON, TIDESWELL DALE, MILLER'S DALE, MONSAL 
 DALE, AND MILL HILL. 
 
 
 N artist, who intends to make the best of his 
 day in a long excursion, will rise early, and with-
 
 32 
 
 a biscuit in his pocket, commence his journey with- 
 out waiting for a formal breakfast, or even the ser- 
 ving up of any meal according to time ; he will 
 refresh himself when an opportunity may occur, on 
 his journey, that is when it will not prevent him. 
 from enjoying a mental repast. Actuated by these 
 maxims, I arose, to commence this excursion be- 
 fore the sun had raised his golden crown above the 
 horizon, yet the crimsoned eastern sky announced 
 his near approach. 
 
 " But yonder comes the powerful King of day-, 
 
 Rejoicing in the east. The lessening cloud, 
 
 The kindling azure, and the mountain's brow 
 
 Illum'd with fiuid gold, his near approach 
 
 Betoken glad. Lo ! now, apparent all, 
 
 Aslant the dew-bright earth, and colour'd air, 
 
 He looks with boundless majesty abroad ; 
 
 And sheds the shining- day, that burnish* d plays 
 
 Oui rocks, and hill?, and towers, and wandering streams, 
 
 High gleaming from afar." 
 
 The numerous objects (hat present themselves 
 for observation, in this excursion, and the beauti- 
 ful scenes with which it abounds, would serve an 
 artist several days to cull their beauties ; for nature 
 has been very profuse, in decorating the river Wye, 
 with pictures of romantic grandeur, and the prin- 
 cipal part of its scenery, is included within the cir- 
 cuit of this ramble. 
 
 On proceeding towards Fairfield, the river will 
 be perceived to turn down a dale on the right, ac- 
 companied by anew turnpike road, which presently 
 brings us to some rock scenery, of a bold and ro- 
 mantic character ; the dale is called Ashwood,
 
 33 
 
 through which the interesting river Wye, foams 
 over a stony channel, and dashes against huge frag- 
 ments of limestone, that obstruct its course. A nar- 
 row rift on the right, is called the Lover's Leap, an 
 appellation that indicates a tragic event. 
 
 In this narrow chasm, is a small waterfall that 
 is very picturesque, particularly after heavy rains. 
 The New Ride leads along the summit of these 
 rocks, from whence 1 descended into the glen above 
 the fall, where the small rivulet, the impending 
 craggs, and the scattered fragments, produce 
 (though small,) an extremely wild and solitary scene. 
 Returning from this little digression, to follow the 
 Wye again ; we are presented with a succession of 
 bold limestone cliffs, that extend more than a mile 
 farther, which will be found to afford some close 
 scenes, that are worthy the artist's attention ; and 
 the botanist may derive liigh gratification, from in- 
 specting the plants that grow upon the rocks ; of 
 Avhich he will find a great variety, that are very 
 curious : in short, the neighbourhood of Buxton, 
 is famous for a great variety of peculiar plants. 
 
 A new mill, will be observed, that wants the 
 mellowing tints of time, to make it harmonize with 
 the scenery: farther on, CowloAv bridge, old and 
 ruinous will be found, a picturesque object, that 
 harmonizes most happily with the scene. Beyond 
 this bridge, the road begins to rise along the side of 
 a hill, and continues to ascend to a fearful height 
 above the river which it presently leaves ; then the 
 country becomes rather uninteresting for several 
 miles, which is however sometimes relieved by a fin*
 
 34 
 
 mountainous distance. In the church yard at Tad- 
 dington stands an ancient stone Cross. After pass- 
 ing through the village, the road descends through 
 Taddington dale, a very picturesque rocky glen, that 
 is sweetely decorated with hazles, extending about 
 two miles in length. On reaching the end of this 
 dale, we meet with the Wye again, in its course, 
 through the lower part of Monsal dale, which again 
 becomes a pleasant and lively companion ; we cross 
 the river over a new bridge. Lofty hills, rise on 
 each side of the dale ; and now the valley widens, 
 and the Wye winds through some fields to the marble 
 mills, which, are the first that were erected in this 
 kingdom for the purpose of sawing and polishing 
 marble.* 
 
 The different machines are admirably adapted 
 to their intended purposes; indeed the superior po- 
 lish that is here given to the marble, evinces the 
 excellence of their construction. 
 
 In the sawing mill, a motion is given by means 
 of a crank, to a swinging frame, that moves the saws ; 
 and a block of marble being properly fixed, is cut 
 down into as many slabs, as may be required, by one 
 process. 
 
 * These mills are on the estate of his Grace the Duke of 
 Devonshire, and are in the occupation of Mr. Brown, sculp- 
 tor and marble-mason ; who exhibits chimney pieces here, 
 for sale ; also at Mr. Mawe's -Museums at Matlock and Cas- 
 tleton.; and at his wave-rooms and residence in Derby, where 
 an elegant variety of Foreign as well as Derbyshire marble 
 ones are exhibited,
 
 35 
 
 The sweeping mill, is a round building, where 
 the sawn slabs are brought to a level face, for the 
 polishing machine. For this purpose a floor is made 
 with the slabs, and others are so fastened with 
 chains, as to be drawn upon the floor in a circular 
 direction, which motion, is given by means of a 
 vertical shaft, in the centre of the building being 
 turned by the water wheel ; the slabs are then com- 
 pletely covered with water, and supplied with sand ; 
 by this process, the whole is brought to a level sur- 
 face together. 
 
 In the polishing mill, the prepared slabs are laid 
 upon a platform, which has a. very slow motion given 
 to it, by means of a worm and crank, whilst the 
 polishing materials are worked in a longitudinal 
 direction ; these cross motions, are necessary, not 
 only to prevent a raced or Hue polish ; (which would 
 be very defective) but also to admit the materials to 
 pass over the whole of the slabs that are laid down 
 to be polished. 
 
 The different kinds of Derbyshire marble that 
 are worked here, are the entrochal, thecorroloid, the 
 bird eye, and the black : the latter is obtained within 
 a few hundred yards of the mills, from the hill to 
 the left of the road leading towards Ashford ; where 
 a large quantity of limestone rubble is seen. The 
 getting of this marble is attended with much diffi- 
 culty, and considerable expence ; from the stratum 
 being obliged to be followed on the principle of 
 mining, in doing this large pillars are left to sup- 
 port the roof. 
 
 His Imperial Highness, the Archduke Mi-
 
 36 
 
 chael, in his progress through Derbyshire, in the 
 month of July 1818, being forcibly struck with the 
 grand effect of an enriched black marble chimney 
 piece, and its peculiarly fine lustre, was induced to 
 purchase it of Mr. Brown. 
 
 The eminences on the other side of the river af- 
 ford some fine views ; the valley about Ashford 
 is richly wooded; the village with its humble 
 church, just peeps above the trees, and distant 
 hills come into the view with good effect. In the 
 foreground, the meanderings of the Wye, enrich 
 the scene and the motions of three water wheels<.at 
 the marble mills, are both lively and picturesque ; 
 immediately, on each side, hills arise with a bold 
 ascent, whilst the roads creeping at their feet, give 
 a pleasing variety to the composition : the whole 
 displays, such a happy adaptation of parts ; that 
 they form a rich combination for the pencil. In a 
 contrary direction, the view up Monsal dale, is very 
 interesting, a succession of declivities, that form the 
 windings of the dale, have a curious appearance, and 
 a mountainous distance forms a fine termination to 
 the view. 
 
 Ashford, is a chapelry in the parish of Bake- 
 well; it is a pleasant and very picturesque village. 
 The river Wye flows through it, from which circum- 
 stance it is called Ashford in the water. In the 
 south wall of the church is a semicircular stone 
 rudely sculptured, which probably belonged to a 
 more ancient structure. 
 
 " Here Edward Plantaganet of Wooodstock, 
 Earl of Kent, and after him, the Hollands, Earls
 
 37 
 
 of Kent, and more recently, the Nevilles, Earls 
 of Westmoreland, had a residence; of which, the 
 only vestige now remaining, is the moat that sur- 
 rounds the castle. This estate was sold by the Earl 
 of Westmoreland, to Sir William Cavendish, the fa- 
 vourite of Wolsey, and still continues in the Caven- 
 dish family, being 1 the property of the Duke of 
 Devonshire." 
 
 From hence to Chats worth is about four miles, 
 miking the whole distance from Buxton about fifteen 
 miles. At the end of the village the road passes 
 
 the charming residence of Ashby, Esquire. 
 
 Edensor is a pleasant village, close to Chatsworth 
 Park. The church contains the tomb of the first 
 Earl of Devonshire ; a large monument to the me- 
 mory of Henry Cavendish, the eldest son of Sir 
 William ; also a long latin epitaph to the memory of 
 one of the domestics of Mary Queen of Scots, who 
 died, at Chatsworth, while in the service of that 
 unfortunate princess. 
 
 Here is an excellent inn, where persons visit- 
 ing Chatsworth, leave their equipage, and then walk 
 to the mansion. The lodge is near; where, through 
 a spacious arch-way, we enter the Park.* I now 
 returned by way of Tideswell, for the purpose of 
 inspecting the fine scenery of Miller's Dale, and to 
 follow the Wye into Monsal Dale. About a mile 
 and a half from Chateworth, is the small village of 
 
 * Having given a description of Chatsworth in my Excur- 
 sions to Matlock and its vicinity, page 87, it is un- 
 necessary to give another here. 
 D
 
 PHsley, from whence we see the pleasant grounds 
 of Hassop, the charming- seat of the Earl of New- 
 burgh, which is about two miles off ; where, will 
 be noticed a Roman Catholic Chapel ; which has 
 just been erected by his Lordship. It is a substan- 
 tial and grand building-, executed after the Tuscan 
 order. About three miles and a half further, brings 
 us into the turnpike road, that leads from Ashford 
 to Tideswell, (having passed through Great Long- 
 stone and Little Longstone) ; near to the spot, 
 where, a view into Monsal Dale has been so highly 
 panegyrized by many writers, as being uncommonly' 
 grand and Picturesque ; were 1 to follow the same 
 strain of praise, it would be in opposition to my 
 small share of judgment, and be committing an act 
 of violence to my feelings.* 1 am fully aware, that 1 
 to oppose the opinions of many is hazardous, so 
 far as regards the creasing 1 of opponents ; for we 
 find, many will hold fast by the errors they have im- 
 bibed, and even become violent in the support of 
 them, at the expence Of reason. But he, who can 
 echo the ideas of another, in opposition to his own, 
 possesses an unenviable pliancy of disposition; to 
 such a Writer. I would apply the language of Shen- 
 stone, and say, 
 
 * Some tourists tell us of nothing but what they happen to 
 meet with upon a good road, as if there did not exist any 
 thing worthy of observation elsewhere ; which is the reason 
 of this view being trumpeted in a higher strain than any other 
 Derbyshire scene ; their accounts are pirated by "others who 
 are too lazy to travel soch echoes arc always inferior to the 
 originals.
 
 " Thy pen demolish; chuse the trustier flail, 
 And bless those labours which the choice inspired : 
 And if thou view'st a vulgar mind, a wight 
 Of common sense, who seeks no brighter name, 
 Him envy, him admire ; him, from thy breast, 
 . Prescient of future dignities, salute!" 
 
 It will be allowed, that the beautiful is not al- 
 ways sublime, nor the sublime always beautiful ; 
 and, that the union of those qualities in their most 
 eminent degree, will produce the highest pitch of 
 grandeur : vastness and a certain portion of obscu- 
 rity, are qualities of the sublime ; whilst diversity and 
 easy flowing lines, are qualities of Picturesque beauty : 
 but here, the forms are lumpish, and monotonous ; 
 no flow.ng line occurs, except that of the river, 
 which has a too map-like appearance, from its being 
 no immediately underneath the eye ; and the few 
 rocks that appear, are too trifling to make a con- 
 spicuous feature in the view. Had I not seen Mat- 
 lock Dale from Masson, Parley Pale from Riber, 
 Edale from Lose Hill ; and many other views in the 
 Peak, where, the sublime unites with picturesque 
 beauty in forming scenes of grandeur ; 1 might have 
 allowed rather more importance to this view, which, 
 in the scale of comparison, bears so inferior a station, 
 that 1 wonder it should have been eulogized in the 
 manner it has been by different writers ; whilst they 
 have neglected to notice scenes that far transcend it : 
 however, I do not mean to say, that it is altogether 
 uninteresting, for a peep down into such a deep dale, 
 will always arrest the attention, although the hills by 
 which it may be bounded be uncouth, and their forms 
 offensive to the eye of the traveller fond of the pictu-
 
 40 
 
 resque. To make a good picture of such a scene, 
 and to preserve the portrait, would, perhaps puz/le 
 that colossus in landscape painting, Turner, who, 
 perhaps, possesses more controul over his subject by 
 the skilful management of light and shadow, than any 
 other painter ; indeed the fine engravings in Cooke's 
 Southern Coast, from the drawings of that eminent 
 artist, bear sufficient testimony, of his extraordinary 
 powers as a Landscape Painter. Claude's subjects 
 are beautiful, but Turner's are grand, from the high 
 quality of mind that is infused into them. On di- 
 recting the eye towards the left, we have a captivating 
 assemblage of mountains in the distance. The road 
 keeps rising, until we pass over the end of Longstone 
 Edge, and then it descends to Wardlow, which is 
 but a mean village* On the left is a conical hill, 
 called Hay Cop; from its apex, we have a most ex- 
 tensive view of the surrounding country ; Ax Edge 
 and other mountains in the vicinity of Buxton, Kinder 
 Scout and South Head, Eyam Edge, Kretton and Sir 
 William, with numerous other mountains and villages. 
 Here, the picturesque tourist may enjoy those ex- 
 quisite delights, that result from the contemplation 
 of nature, in an expansive view of a mountainous 
 country. 
 
 " See how sublime tli' uplifted mountains rise, 
 And with their pointed heads invade the skies" 
 
 The transient effects of light and shadow, pro- 
 duced by the swiftly rolling clouds; and the pas- 
 sing shower, moving from hill to hill, alternately ob- 
 scuring them ; will afford him both pleasure and in- 
 struction. And the vivid lightinings' momentary
 
 41 
 
 flash, with the tremendous thunder's awful roar, 
 rebounding with a dreadful crash, from hill to hill, 
 he will calmly ohserve. 
 
 " See, and revere th' artillery cf heaven, 
 Drawn by the gale, or by the tempest driven, - 
 A dreadful fire the floating batt'ries make 
 O'erturn the mountain, and the forest shake." 
 " Jn making a turnpike road from Wardlow to 
 Bakewell, in the year 1750, part of a Cairn,* or 
 stone harrow, was destroyed ; wherein the remains 
 of seventeen persons were discovered deposited upon 
 flat stones, which were placed on the surface of the 
 ground. The two bodies interred near the' middle of 
 the barrow, were inclosed in complete chests formed 
 by stones being placed edgeways, and covered with 
 flat ones. The others were but partially inclosed, the 
 head and breast only, being protected hy stones 
 placed for that purpose. The diameter of this cairn, 
 was thirty-two yards, and its height ahout five feet. 
 The ahove remains were discovered in one half of it 
 that was examined." 
 
 About a quarter of a mile from Wardlow, stands 
 a few houses called Wardlow Mires, from its boggy 
 situation, Here, at the toll-bar house, a murder - 
 was committed a few years ago, on a female who kept 
 
 * Such tumuli, are, in this country willed Lows, of which 
 there are still many remaining on the summits of the hills, 
 and many very considerable ones have, at different periods, 
 been destroyed. The names of a number of villages and odd 
 farm houses in this district end with low, near to which there 
 either is, or has been, one, or more of those places of sepul- 
 ture. 
 
 D 2
 
 42 
 
 it, and the body of the wretch who perpetrated the 
 horrid deed is suspended on a gibbet to the left : a 
 pair of shoes that the villain had taken, led to his 
 detection ; he was under twenty-two years of age, 
 prone to idleness, and its concomitant, drunkenness ; 
 without any education, or the least conception of 
 religion ; he retained a heart of adamant even to his 
 very last moments. His father and several of his 
 brothers, reside at Litton a village, situated about 
 the distance of one mile, from the gibbet. If the sus- 
 pension of the wretch there, was intended to awe 
 them, it may be doubtful how far such a plan may 
 be founded in sound policy. Might we not rather 
 expect that from seeing the object of their degrada- 
 tion, perhaps, every day ; and which, causes even 
 children to throw the eye of abhorrence upon them, 
 it may not have a contray effect to that, for which the 
 spectacle is intended ? Feeling themselves degraded 
 to the very lowest, is not the constant proclamation 
 of that degradation, on the gibbet-post, calculated 
 to keep afloat their very worst passions, arid thereby, 
 stifle every spark of reformation, if any such should 
 exist in their composition ? Again, if there should 
 happen to exist one good heart in the family ; is not 
 such an exhibition, a constant and unmerited punish- 
 ment to' such a one ? If this mode of suspending the 
 body of a criminal was only for a limited time, as 
 nine, or twelve months, it would have a far more im- 
 pressive effect, than a continued suspension; because 
 the object being removed, whilst the impression it 
 produced, still retained a considerable portion of its 
 irst effect ; it would then be lasting in the mind, and
 
 ' . ' , / 43 
 
 the circumstance would never be recurred to, without 
 producing an emotion correspondent with the first 
 impression ; whereas, on the other hand, a complete 
 indifference is gradually produced hy the object re- 
 maining, which is sure to obliterate the very recollec- 
 tion of the first impression produced by it, and this 
 indifference, defeats the intention of such an exhibi- 
 tion ; that of producing awe in the beholders.* 
 
 Towards the right a large steam engine is seen ; 
 it is used for pumping water out of a mine, called 
 Water Groove, it is rich in lead ore, but the quantity 
 of water that pours in upon the works, from all di- 
 rections, renders the working of it extremely diffi- 
 cult ; nor can it be worked longer than three months 
 
 * Since the above observations were written their correct-, 
 ness lias been strengthened by another case of murder in this 
 neighbourhood, and which was even committed in a field near 
 to the gibbet and within sight of it. A girl only sixteen years 
 of age being dismissed from service for her ill-conduct, con- 
 ceived the horrid design of poisoning the young 'emalewho sup- 
 plied her place ; in the vain hope of then regaining her situa- 
 tion, which was at a farm-house, with! nsiglit of the gibbet. She 
 prepared a cake made up with arsenic ; and was too success- 
 ful in decoying her victim whilst fetching up some cattle from 
 a field near to the gibbet; the poor creature died a most shock- 
 ing spectacle. Howeve^r, the powerful arm of the law, 
 stopped the career of the young, though unfeeling criminal ; 
 she was executed at Derby in March, 1819. In prison she 
 displayed a hardened insensibility, shs treated the prospect 
 of her fate with levity, slept soundly the night preceding her 
 execution and when she came upon the fatal platform tears 
 had not disordered her healthful cheeks how extraordinary 
 for one so young !
 
 44 
 
 in the year ; from the vast accumulation of water 
 for nine months at least, overpowering the engine. 
 At short distances from this engine, are three seve- 
 ral excavations of an elliptical form, "one of which, 
 is about fifty or sixty yards, by about forty, and 
 from two to three feet in depth : they are called 
 Camping holes, Whether they have ever been used 
 for Camps (as their appellation indicates) or not, I 
 must leave to be determined by the inquisitive re- 
 searches of the antiquary. 
 
 On the left, is Wardlow Dale, which I explored, 
 accompanied by a friend, who had before traced its 
 rugged windings, and had made some sketches of its 
 peculiar scenery, and who particularly recommended 
 it to my notice, as it had been neglected by all tour- 
 ists; knowing my friend's taste, I was sure he 
 would lead me to some uncommon scenes. We 
 passed by the gibbet ; and a little beyond it, is a re- 
 markable insular rock, called Peter's stone, which is 
 corruptly pronounced here Pitterston. This is 
 well hacked, by the sweeping, rocky hill on the other 
 side of the dale, which, with a winding path, and 
 d small stream, form an agreeable subject to sketch. 
 Further on, the hills to the left, rise to a prodigious 
 height crested with bold limestone cliffs, that ap- 
 pear in grand perspective ; here, a rock, called the 
 High Tor, has a very majestic appearance, and is a 
 fine object for the pencil. We now made our way, 
 with some difficulty, through brakes and weeds, and 
 over rough, stony ground. Below the Hi-^h Tor, 
 at a very considerable height in the rocks, a cavern 
 is seen, which is called Hodge Hole. Difficulties in
 
 proceeding, still continue, and the roar of a water- 
 fall keeps increasing its hoarse sound upon us, as we 
 proceed ; at length we reach the place, where the 
 water pours over the rock, ' with an awful roar, into 
 the boiling cauldron below ; which is thrown upon 
 the ear with peculiar force, by its confined situation, 
 and is frequently heard at the distance of two miles ; 
 this cascade is called Thirstspit Lum. We now 
 scrambled along ledges of rocks, and through en- 
 tangled wood, when we came to a cave, out of which 
 a large stream issues, roaring hideously, over the 
 broken fragments of limestone, that lie in great con- 
 fusion within it; this is called the Tan-vats: the 
 glen has continued very narrow from the cascade, 
 and still continues so, and the scenery has an air of 
 solitary wildness, that is seldom to be met with ; we 
 now arrive at the part called Brightpool, (the water 
 of which, is very clear and cold;) where persons, 
 that are afflicted with rheumatism come to bathe 5 
 the place is very difficult of aeces, and to a rheuma- 
 tic subject, must be extremely so ; however they do 
 manage to get to it, and one patient from Litton, 
 having with some difficulty undressed himself, was 
 proceeding to lave his contracted limbs in the pellu- 
 cid flood, when a stone on which he stood gave way, 
 arid down he rolled upon a bed of nettles : rendered 
 inactive by his disorder, he could not rise very 
 quickly from the weeds, so that he was" dreadfully 
 stung by them ; however, this accident effected a 
 perfect cure of his disorder, Dr. Nettie thus having 
 intercepted a job that was intended for Dr. Bright- 
 pool, it becomes a question for the sops of old quib-
 
 46 
 
 ble to determine whether Dr. 13. might not recover 
 damages in this case. Although the cure proved 
 complete and established the fame of Nettle ; yet his 
 prescription is so disliked that no one, has ever since 
 had recourse to it. 
 
 The rocks now continue to exhibit, an extremely 
 wild, and often a very singular, appearance : vast 
 projecting masses, sometimes run in iines like enor- 
 mous cornices, fringed with a variety of foliage : 
 the dale now widens a little ; here a spring issues 
 from the bank, where it has formed a considerable 
 bed of tuffa : this water is said to carry a larger 
 quantity of calcarious earth, than any other ihat is 
 kn c n in the Peak. We are presently led into 
 Monsal Dale, near to a large cotton mill belonging 
 
 to Phillips, Esquire. From the Cascade to 
 
 Monsal Dale this glen is called Cressbrook Dale : 
 the whole length from where we enter at Wardlow is 
 about three miles. A ramble down this picturesque 
 dale, would be uncommonly interesting if a path 
 was formed PO that it might be easily traced ; for its 
 scenery is extremely wild and romantic, and 
 sometimes stupendous ; but the difficulties that 
 are now to be encoun'ered, in the progress, 
 are such, as will preclude it from being generally 
 visiied : but to one whose game is Nature, in her 
 wildest dress, he, will eagerly pursue her through 
 the intricate windings of the tangled brakes, and 
 along the shelving rocks ; descend the fearful preci" 
 pice into the craggy glen, and panting, follow her 
 mazy coarse, to the mountain's top : where, lost in 
 clouds, the chase stems to end ; but, eager still, lie
 
 47 
 
 keeps the game in view, and thus from morn till evt 
 keeps up the chase ; nor can approaching night, 
 check his career ; by Dian and her train attended ; 
 he bounds over the wide spreading 1 plain, Jind scours 
 the forest, then follows the river's winding course, 
 where nymphs dance on the limpid stream, to the 
 music of a distant waterfall, whose varying sympho- 
 nies undulate with the zephyrs that sigh along- the 
 rustling groves ; well stored with nature's spoil he 
 then roves in the pleasing, and never-ending wilds 
 of fancy. 
 
 We returned over the heights, by following an 
 intricate track, amongst innumerable hazles, that 
 finally, brought us to the summit of a very steep, 
 and-lofty eminence, that overlooks the dale ; keep- 
 ing along the high grounds, we passed over the 
 side of Hay Cop, to Wardlow. After pursuing the 
 road to Tideswell for about a mile, we see the two 
 Hucklows, Grindlow, -and Foulow, at the foot of a 
 lofty chain of mountains on the right : the declining 
 sun now tipped them with golden light ; and im- 
 mense shadows projecting from the hills, sweep 
 across the fields, giving an interest to the scene, 
 that makes us forget the want of wood. About half 
 a mile brings us to Tideswell Lane Head : here seve- 
 ral roads branch off, viz. to Buxton, to Castleton, 
 to Chapel, and to Tideswell : the latter place is seen 
 on the left, at the distance of about half a mile ; 
 whence 1 proceeded to rest for the night. 
 " The weary sun hath made a golden set, 
 And by the bright track of his fiery car, 
 Gives signal of a goodly day to-morrow."
 
 48 
 
 Tideswell is a small market town, mean, in its ap- 
 pearance, but with an elegant church ; a small 
 stream of water runs through the place : it is en- 
 vironed by lofty hills : the inhabitants are chiefly 
 employed in spinning-, and weaving cotton, and in 
 mhung. The name of the place was derived from 
 an ebbing and flowing well, which has long since 
 ceased to flow ; however, the place where it existed, 
 is still pointed out to the enquiring traveller. The 
 church is a handsome and uniform structure, of the 
 conventual form, Avith ornamented buttresses, and 
 rich gothic windows. The termination of the tower 
 (which is a square one) has a peculiarity that is 
 very striking : each corner is surmounted with an oc- 
 tagonal turret, that is embattled and terminated by 
 a pinnacle : in each space, between the turrets, is 
 another pinnacle, smaller than those that are upon 
 the turrets. The effect produced by this cluster of 
 spires is rather heavy ; yet from some points 
 of view it is better than from others ; but 
 from every station, it is singular. In walking 
 round this fine edifice, I observed with regret, 
 strong marks of the dilapidating tooth of time ; the 
 fine tracery of all the windows is in a mouldering 
 state ; ere long-, it perhaps will exhibit a series of 
 disgraceful patch-work, that, from time to time, 
 may be recorded as beautifying it. There certainly 
 could not be any serious expence felt by the parish, 
 in restoring two or three windows every year until 
 the whole was finished, and- then to attend to the 
 other ornaments ; in short, if the old adage " a 
 stitch in time, &c." were acted upon, the original
 
 49 
 
 style of such an edifice might be preserved by a tri- 
 fling annual expence. It is said to be a part of the 
 Archdeacons duty to see that the churches are kept 
 in proper repair ; it is also tp be hoped, that they 
 have the power to prevent patch- work mut'lations, 
 and that they will not any longer suffer our beautiful 
 gothic churches, to be defaced by the narrow views 
 of a cavilling parish vestry. I cannot by any means 
 agree with those who think, that a place of worship 
 ought to be plain and unadorned : on'the contrary, 
 I think they cannot be too grand, because they are 
 connected with' the most sublime idea, that we have 
 any notion of, the service of the Deity. On enter- 
 ing a superb cathedral church, for the purpose of 
 attending the service, an emotion is raised by the 
 impressive grandeur of the building, that touches a 
 chord of the heart in unison with devotion ; and in- 
 deed if we refer to holy writ, we shall find, that 
 grand temples were acceptable to the great Author 
 of good. 
 
 It is observable that many of the inhabitants of 
 a small place, where there happens to be a fine 
 church, are so proud of it as to suppose, that it ex- 
 ceeds every other in beauty. Whilst I was sketching 
 this church, there came several people to inform me 
 " that it was the finest building in all England, and 
 that such an one could not be made now a flays :" 
 finding that it was a pleasure to them to think so, 
 and a harmless one too, 1 suffered them to enjoy it 
 without contradiction. 
 
 The interior of this church, contains some 
 ancient inscriptions ; a flat stone in the chancel, re-
 
 50 
 
 cords the death of John, son of Thomas Foljambe, 
 in the year 1358, and informs u's that he contributed 
 largely towards the building of the church. A tabu- 
 lar monument, to the memory of Sampson Meurrill, 
 records, that in less than two years he fought in 
 eleven battles in France, and that he was knighted 
 hy the Duke of Bedford, at Saint Luce ; that the 
 Duke made him Knight Constable of England, &c. 
 On this warrior's tomb, bread is given every Sunday 
 to some of the indigent parishoners. 
 
 Here is also a monument, to the memory of 
 Robert Pursglove, a native of Tideswell. He was 
 Prior of Gisburn Abbey, Prebend of Rotherham and 
 Bishop of Hull, and died in the year 1570. He was 
 pensioned by Henry the Eighth, for his ready com- 
 pliance with that monarch's wishes, by the surrender 
 of his house, and his services as a commissioner, 
 employed for the purpose of persuading others to 
 follow his example. At the commencement of Queen, 
 Mary's reign, he was constituted Archdeacon of 
 Nottingham, Suffragan Bishop of Hull, &c. But 
 on his refusal to take the oath of supremacy to Queen 
 Elizabeth, he was stripped of a,ll his spiritualities in 
 the year 1560. In consequence of this, he retired 
 to his native town, founded a grammar school, ad- 
 joining the church yard, and established an hospital 
 for twelve poor people ; the property that he left for 
 this purpose, amounted at the time of making the 
 bequest only to sl3 6s. 8d. per annum, but it is 
 said now to produce yearly upwards of ,gHOO. ; 
 two-thirds of which is received by the master of the 
 school for instructing about thirty boys. On a tomb
 
 51 
 
 in the south transept, are Avhole length figures of a 
 man and a woman, which are said to he effigies of 
 Thurstan de Be\ver and his wife ; to whom tradition 
 ascribes the building of the transept of this church. 
 
 " There was a chapel at Tideswell as early as 
 the reign of King John. For in the year 1215, he 
 gave the chapel of Tideswell, as well as the church 
 of Hope to the canons of Lichfield, for their com- 
 mon provision of bread and beer." 
 
 The church is dedicated to St. John ; the living 
 is a vicarage ; and the Dean and Chapter of Lichfield 
 are the patrons. 
 
 lit the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Sir John 
 Statham, Knight, who resided at Tideswell, raised 
 and equipped a troop of horse for the service of the 
 State ; his descendants resided in this town to a 
 late period ; and a chapel on the south side of the 
 church, still retains their name. The grandfather 
 of the witty Earl of Chesterfield, who figured much 
 in the polite world, built a house and resided here ; 
 this edifice was taken down and the materials sold. 
 
 ' Tideswell anciently belonged to William Pe- 
 verel, and being afterwards vested (with the re- 
 mainder of his inheritance) in King John, was 
 given by him to his esquire ;, a female descendant 
 from whom, in Richard the Second's lime, being 
 married to a Stafford, had with her husband a grant 
 of a weekly market and a yearly fair there. After- 
 wards the estate came (o the Meurrills or Meverills, 
 of Throvvley, in Staffordshire, and was conveyed 
 by the marriage of an heiress to Lord Cromwell, of 
 Oakham, in Rutlandshire, one of whose descendants
 
 52 
 
 sold it, between the death of Charles the First and 
 the period of the Restoration, to the Eyres of High- 
 low. Since the death of John Archer, Esquire, of 
 Welford, in Berkshire, the male heir of this family, 
 the manor was sold, under the authority of the 
 Court of Chancery, to the late Duke of Devonshire." 
 On the second morning of this excursion I rose 
 with the sun, for the purpose of making a ehort 
 ramble before breakfast to Wheston, a small village 
 on an elevated situation, about the distance of one 
 mile to the westward of Tideswell. I had experien- 
 ced great kindness from Morpheus the last evening : 
 refreshed by the potent powers of the cod of sleep, 
 and exhilarated by the lively appearance of a clear 
 sky, and the melody of the feathered race, 1 eager- 
 ly pursued my favourite objects, Nature, and the 
 Picturesque. 
 
 " How soon the sun-beams at the mornings birth 
 Leap down from heaven, and light upon the earth. 
 Prodigious flight ! they in few moments pass 
 The vast etherial interposing space." 
 The road to Wheston, leads up a steep hill, and 
 gives a good view of Tideswell, backed with lofty 
 hills : this pleasant little village is sweetly adorned 
 with fine luxuriant trees ; the sycamore, the lime, 
 and the ash, spread over the cottages in a very 
 pleasing manner, giving them an air oi seclusion 
 and picturesque beauty, that is extremely agreeable. 
 A little beyond the Hall, stands an ancient stone 
 Cross, by the side of the road, surrounded by trees 
 which spread their branches of fine foliage, that play 
 in graceful wreaths with fine effect. This curious 
 and ancient relique is said to have been removed
 
 53 
 
 from the front of the Hall to this spot ; the upper 
 part is constructed in the gothic style ; on one side 
 there is a representation of the Virgin and Child ; 
 on the other, the Crucifixion of our Saviour : a 
 part of one end of this is broken off. The shaft 
 which is modern is of a square form with the angles 
 taken off, diminishing like an obelisk, and quite 
 plain. It is raised on three steps, and there is a 
 basement upon them, from which arises the shaft. 
 It is a matter of much regret that so little interest 
 is felt in the preservation of ancient reliques, when 
 they display so much of the manners of times gone 
 by ; shewing us the state of the arts, and the zeal 
 felt for religion in ^remote ages ; of which, some 
 idea may be formed, by the costly edifices, and the 
 various rich and tasteful emblems that remain as 
 memorials of their faith ; but which are now so little 
 regargded, that even man assists his own conqueror 
 (Time) to efface them. After sketching this inter- 
 esting remain, I returned to Tideswell, for the 
 purpose of following the new road thence to Uuxton, 
 and making a ran'ble on the banks of the Wye, 
 through Miller's Dale and Monsal Dale. Near 
 Tideswell is an eminence called Tideslow Top, on 
 which is the remains of an ancient Barrow, that has 
 been examined and found to consist of s number of 
 cells formed with stone containing human remains. 
 A Roman coin was found amongst the rubbish, but 
 whether that circumstance be sufficient for the esta- 
 blishment of a conclusion, that it must, therefore, 
 be a Roman tumulus ; 1 leave to the determination 
 
 of the sagacious antiquary. 
 E 2
 
 54 
 
 I now began to enter on the new road that is 
 cut through the rocky Tideswell Dale, in which, 
 (at the distance of rather more than a mile from 
 Tideswell) will be observed a very curious corrol- 
 loid limestone, which, when polished forms a sin- 
 gular and very interesting marble. Above .it is a 
 stratum of columnar iron ore, which is regarded as 
 a very remarkable circumstance, as it is not known 
 to occur in any other part of Derbyshire : it forms a 
 series of pentagonal prisms, that closely adhere, 
 and are of a redish brown colour. Toadstone is 
 also seen in this Dale, close by the side of the road. 
 We now have a peep into Miller's Dale which has an 
 air of romantic seclusion, that is so interesting, as 
 to awaken curiosity and create an ardent desire to be- 
 come acquainted with those charms that are con- 
 cealed by the foldings of the Dale. The little river 
 Wye, murmurs at a great depth below ; the sparkling 
 little falls sweetly cheer the scene, and heighten its 
 general interest. Here, abstracted from the bustling 
 world, from its follies and its cares ; how sweet is a 
 silent communion with eloquent nature ! here, con- 
 templation may indulge her musings, and forget the 
 jarrings of a tumultuous society, its crafts, and its 
 ambitious littleness : but those who cannot under- 
 stand the language of nature, speaking from her 
 caverned recks, from her beetling cliffs, and from 
 their scattered fragments thrown wildly around ; 
 from her tangled brakes, from her murmuring- rills, 
 and from her rivers' roaring falls, should seek a 
 more congenial scene ; for here he will only partake 
 of the bitter cup of disappointment ; a path too rug-
 
 55 
 
 ged for his delicate feet ; groves, whose natural 
 wildness will offend his eye, and a river, whose 
 irregular banks will disgust his taste. 
 
 The road now descends along the side of the 
 hill when we come to a mill, whence I turned 
 down the dale, and presently came to a broad mass 
 of limestone rock, in which was a large arched re- 
 cess, formed by nature ; various romantic scenes 
 occur all the way to Litton cotton mill ; at about a 
 quarter of a mile below it, I crossed the river, 
 where the track is sometimes along a narrow ledge 
 on the face of a perpendicular rock that rises ab- 
 ruptly from the river, which roars at the depth of 
 about thirty feet below. Some extraordinary, and 
 very magnificent rock scenery, is now met with, 
 finely diversified and agreeably decorated with trees ; 
 the wildly winding river, boils amongst the rocky 
 fragments, that have fallen from the adjoining cliffs : 
 a lofty hill rising above the rocks, in the front, shuts 
 in the view ; the characteristic feature of which, is 
 A\ild and solitary grandeur. The dale continues to 
 preserve an uncommon interest until we reach Cress- 
 brook cotton mill ; near this mill, and on the oppo- 
 site side of the river, are some dwellings that are 
 partly scooped out of the rock, and situated near 
 the brink of the river, which is here formed into a 
 dam for the mill ; beyond it we enter into Monsal 
 Dale. That part of the dale, which extends above 
 Litton TVIill is called Miller's Dale ; and that between 
 Cressbrook Mill, and Litton Mill, is named Litton 
 Frith. From Litton Mill to where I crossed the 
 river, is not a regxilar road ; but from the dryness
 
 . 
 
 of the season, which had caused the river to be low, 
 and the principal part of she stream being- carried 
 down a channel from the water wheel ; I was enabled 
 to pass over without any difficulty. There is, 
 however, a regular road to Monsal Dale ; but as it 
 does not keep along the side of the river; the most 
 beautiful scenes in Litton Frith, would not be seen 
 that way. It would, therefore, be advisable, after 
 visiting Monsal Dale, to return up Litton Frith. A 
 road from Cressbrook Mill, leads down Monsal 
 Dale, to a farm-house, sheltered by luxuriant syca- 
 mores ; a rustic wooden bridge, supported by rocky 
 fragments, that are somewhat assisted by rude 
 stones, piled upon them, forms an interesting ob- 
 ject in a view up the dale, where some rocks, broken 
 ground, and steep declivities ; verdure and trees 
 produce a beautiful and harmonious whole. Lower 
 down, the river winds through some rich inclosurcs : 
 sometimes the mountainous sides of the dale, are 
 covered with underwood, and occasionally slope to 
 the river ; a grey rock now and then starts from 
 amidst the tufted foliage, with much interest ; these 
 varieties so happily intermingle as often to produce a 
 ' most romantic and sequeeterd scene. Further down 
 in. the dale is a very picturesque waterfall, which 
 with the hills finely skirted with wood, and some 
 grey rocks called Hob Hurst's House, crowning the 
 hill on the right (called the Great Finn) as we look 
 up the river, forms a facinating picture. 
 
 On the summit of the Great Finn, which is call- 
 ed Finn Co|>, was a large barrow, composed princi- 
 pally of limestone irregularly broken. It was about
 
 57 
 
 one hundred and sixty feet in circumferance, and 
 was destroyed in the years 1794 5 and 6. Thrift 
 effected the destruction of this very interesting and 
 ancient tumulus, for the sake of the stone to fence 
 with, and tins too in a country abounding with that 
 material: little, did theythink,who bestowed so much 
 labour and pains to honour their dead, by "raising 
 the stone of their fame", that so paltry a consider- 
 ation would ever effect its destruction. A trifling 
 memorial of the spot occupied by this barrow, is 
 still preserved ; a few bones being deposited in a 
 small square hole which is covered over with a slab 
 of limestone, marks the place. 
 
 A number of skeletons were discovered in this 
 ancient place of sepulture ; also, some urns of 
 coarse clay which were but slightly baked, they 
 contained burnt bones, ashes, beaks of birds, &c. 
 Two gigar.tic skeletons were found lying in opposite 
 directions, their feet being directed towards an urn 
 that was placed between them. A cavity was like- 
 wise discovered to be cut in the solid rock, two feet 
 nine inches broad and two feet one inch deep ; 
 wherein was found a skeleton with the face down- 
 ward, under the head, two small arrow heads of flint 
 were found. Upon the skull a piece of black marble 
 was fixed, with a strong cement, it measured two 
 feet in length, nine inches in breadth, and six inches 
 in thickness, it was also dressed. Another cavity 
 was formed in the soil : flat stones being placed at 
 the bottom, and at the sides of it ; this contained 
 ashes and burnt bones. A spear head with various 
 other memorials of ancient customs, were likewise
 
 58 
 
 discovered here. Mr. Hay man Booke, imagined, 
 the origin of this barrow to be very remote ; and to 
 support this opinion, he quotes a passage from the 
 Nenia Britannica, whose learned author observes, 
 that arrow heads of flint " are evidences of a people 
 not in the use of a malleable metal ; and it therefore 
 implies, wherever these arms are found, in barrows, 
 they are incontestibly the relics of a primitive barba- 
 rous people, and preceding the era of those barrows 
 in which brass or iron arms are found." If this tu- 
 mulus belonged to a people that were not in posses- 
 sion of malleable metal (as is supposed by Mr. Rooke) 
 it then becomes a question how the excavation in the 
 hard limestone was effected , and also how the black 
 marble was dressed ? which is likewise a very hard 
 substance. With defference to the opinion of Mr. 
 Rooke, I cannot forbear to mention, that the con- 
 sideration of the question operates with me against 
 his conclusion respecting the antiquity of (his barrow 
 It is said that the summit of the Great Finn is sur- 
 rounded (except the side next to the precipice) by 
 a double ditch, each having a vallum ; not being 
 aware of this, and being also deficient in Antiquarian 
 sagacity, I did not observe them, but 1 do not 
 therefore mean to say, they do not exist. 
 
 A little below the waterfall, a tottering bridge 
 is formed with the bole of a tree, which is thrown 
 across the river for that purpose, one end rests upon 
 a few loose stones, the other between the two boles 
 of an ash tree, which arise at about the distance of 
 two feet from its root ; here is no rail to hold by ; 
 however, by a little caution I passed over it and then
 
 59 
 
 traced np the other side of the river ; the waterfall 
 presented another pleasing picture, its appearance 
 being considerably altered by the different point of 
 view ; higher still where the river is much spread 
 out are leppings across the stream, which consists of 
 stones that are placed at short distances in the river 
 and flat ones laid over them ; thus forming a kind of 
 causeway, for tha purpose of passing over. This 
 becomes a curious object in the foreground, and a 
 group of cottages, that are screened with trees, near 
 the brink of the river, gives great interest to the 
 view ; above them, rises a bold rocky hill extending 
 np the dale : its surface is much broken and inter- 
 spersed with bushes ; the extremity, up the dale is 
 terminated by a mass of perpendicular rocks, that 
 appear like a rampart formed with huge blocks of 
 limestone rising from a steep declivity, and crowned 
 with bushes : above which, the hill gently ascends 
 a^ain, and softens into fertile inclosures, where cat- 
 tle and sheep are seen grazing ; which in so lofty a 
 situation has a remarkable appearance and enlivens 
 the scene. Passing over the leppings, I now retraced 
 my steps to Miller's Dale ; and by the time I had 
 reached the mill from whence this ramble down the 
 Wye commenced, the shades of evening began to 
 shew themselves, which prevented me from visiting 
 Chee Torr ; as 1 had originally intended in this 
 ramble, to have completely included the whole of the 
 rocky scenes on the Wye ; but their numerous beau- 
 ties, so frequently employed my pencil, whilst time 
 passed on, and left my projected purpose unaccom- 
 plished ; however, I trust that to-morrow, will
 
 60 
 
 afford me the gratification of completing it. From 
 the mill the new road between Tideswell and Bux- 
 ton, runs along the side of the river, and they are 
 closely hemmed in by lofty eminences, cloathed with 
 wood, that throws a deep and solemn gloom over the 
 dell ; this strait is about a quarter of a mile in length, 
 we then arrive at a bridge where a road on the right 
 leads to Wormhill, and another over the bridge, 
 leads up Mill Hill, to the new road between Buxton 
 and Chats worth, joining it near Soughbrook. Sober 
 evening now steals on apace, veiling the lovely face 
 of nature in gloom, presenting but little for observa- 
 tion, I therefore indulged myself for the remaining 
 six miles of this excursion in recapitulating in the 
 " mind's eye" those extraordinary and beautiful 
 scenes, I met with in this ramble : the consideration 
 of them led to a train of thought that proved a good 
 substitute for company, and agreeably beguiled the 
 time until I reached Buxton. 
 
 EXCURSION 
 
 TO CHEE TOR, 
 
 J\I_ANY objects of peculiar interest, being com- 
 prised in my last excursion, it became necessary for 
 me to retouch my sketches, and finish my notes, 
 whilst the scenes that it embraced were still fresh in 
 the mind : this employment, fully occupied the 
 morning ; however, the afternoon proved sufficient 

 
 61 
 
 for the completion of so short a journey ; and, al- 
 though night prevented its being included in my 
 last ramble, yet that circumstance, is no longer a 
 subject of regret, since it occupies a most delight- 
 ful afternoon for an artistical walk : shifting clouds 
 produce lively effects of light and shade, and gentle 
 zephyrs give the trees a pleasing animated appear- 
 ance ; whilst the lucid coolness of the breeze is 
 sweetly refreshing in the hottest part of a summer's 
 day. Passing through Fairfield, we follow the road 
 to Tideswell, for about the distance of four miles, 
 when we turn to the right, for the village of Worm- 
 hill, which is about one mile farther; after proceed- 
 ing through the place, we descend into a very deep 
 and romantic glen, where Chee Tor is situated. 
 At a short distance down the hollow, a small rivulet 
 will.be seen pouring over a shelving rock, which 
 with its accompaniments makes a pretty little pic- 
 ture ; the stream is lost amongst weeds in its pro- 
 gress down the hill to the river. At the bottom is 
 an immense spring ; the water of which rushes like 
 a torrent to the river ; it is called Wormhill Spring, 
 and is probably the collected waters of the different 
 swallows at Dove-Holes, Water Swallows, &c., 
 which, after running several miles, in subterranean 
 channels, here, perhaps, find a vent. We now en- 
 ter the chasm, where the sublime Chee Tor is seen 
 rearing its hoary head with sullen majesty to the 
 height of three hundred and sixty feet. Its wea- 
 ther-beaten front, precipitous, and impending ; 
 patched with lichens, and fringed with ash, and 
 
 nut- trees, has a most imposing aspect. The gurg- 
 F
 
 62 
 
 ling river Wye, whose channel is strewed wilh rocky 
 fragments, that have fallen from the upper cliffs, 
 laves its mighty base : and the playful foliage of 
 pliant trees, sweep the fretful stream, that dashes 
 over obstructing masses of limestone. The rocks 
 on the opposite side are much depressed, yet appear 
 by their stratification and corresponding form, to 
 have been once united with the lofty Tor : they are 
 richly decorated with trees; the ash and the hazle, 
 shoot out from the crevices, and most gracefully 
 fall in festoons down their grey faces, and their upland 
 summits are enriched with a luxuriant covering of 
 underwood. This dell is eminently calculated to 
 raise the most sublime emotions ; the appearance of 
 the enormous rocks, having been separated by some 
 unknown operation, is so striking, as to excite in 
 the mind of the beholder, the most affecting senti- 
 ments of awe and astonishment. 
 
 Loosen' rocks, that, thund'ring down, 
 Desolation spread around." 
 
 and the huge, ponderous, and disjointed masses that 
 are scattered about, mark the horrible confusion 
 that must have existed. 
 
 ' Amid the wreck of matter, and the crush of worlds." 
 Although this deep ravine, can only be explored for 
 about the distance of seven hundred yards from the 
 point where we enter it ; yet, in that small space, 
 it presents several good views marked by a very pe- 
 culiar character, and differing much from every 
 other glen.l have met with. It sweeps in a circular 
 direciion, making a considerable approach towards 
 insulating the storm-defying Chee Tor, at length the 
 rocks so nearly meet, as only to admit a passage for
 
 63 
 
 the river. This curious, singular, and romantic 
 spot, presents such an intermingling of rocks, trees 
 and water, as conspire at once to fill the mind 
 of the tourist with admiration and delight. O { 
 bountiful Nature ! how finely has thy plastic care 
 disposed the scene for a picture ! how loose and 
 careless seems thy touch, yet how tasteful ! Thou 
 hast not placed a stone that would disgrace the art- 
 ist's notice, nor a tree that he could wish to trans- 
 plant ; thrown a branch he ought to lop, or 
 formed a rock that he need improve. 
 
 " Unerring nature, still divinely bright, 
 One clear, unchanged, and universal light, 
 Life, force, and beauty, must to all impart, 
 At once the scource, and end, and test of Art." 
 
 EXCURSION 
 
 TO WATER SWALLOWS, MARVEL STONES, AND THE 
 EBBING AND FLOWING WELL. 
 
 JL HE principal object of this Excursion, was to 
 visit the Marvel Stones, as, much has been said of 
 their being a great curiosity : but I must confess, 
 they did not appear to me, worth the journey to see. 
 At the Ebbing and Flowing Well, I was quite disap- 
 pointed ; for a great quantity of rain had fallen in 
 the night, it also rained whilst I was upon this 
 ramble, which led me to expect that the well would 
 flow ; however, after watching it one hour and five
 
 64 
 
 minuted, during heavy rain, and being informed, 
 that from the dryness of the season, which had 
 continued for a great length of time, it had ceased 
 to flow, I was induced to give up the watch : being 
 more fortunate in my excursion to Castleton, I hare 
 in it, given a particular account of its operations, 
 anp endeavoured to prove the fallacy, of the 
 generally supposed cause of its intermittent flow- 
 ing ; also, given a new theory to account for that 
 phenomenon, supported by experimental facts. 
 About a mile beyond Fail field, on the road to 
 Tideswell, are two or three Houses, called Water 
 Swallows, from a small stream that suddenly dis- 
 appears near them, by sinking into the earth : it 
 will be seen, by looking over a fence wall, a little 
 before we come to the Houses, where the stream 
 quietly makes its exit, without forming a vortex ; 
 yet 1 distinctly heard a rumbling of water, which, 
 most likely was caused by a more considerable 
 subterranean stream meeting this, which alone, did 
 not appear sufficient to make such a noise. Oppo- 
 site to the houses, I struck into a road on the left, 
 to Small Dale, a hamlet consisting of about five or 
 six houses, where I observed water flowing over 
 some stone troughs, which immediately sunk into 
 the earth ; indeed this part of the country is full 
 of these swallows ; many are seen between this 
 place and Water Swallows ; some of which receive 
 the drainings from the road. The Marvel Stones 
 are situated on Kerns Hill, about three quarters of 
 a mile beyond Small Dale, bearing to the right : they 
 will be seen immediately on leaving Small Dale, ap-
 
 05 
 
 pearing like a bare patch, in an inclosure, on a 
 gently rising hill ; I crossed over the fields to them, 
 by two Cottages on the left ; in the field before we 
 come to the Cottages, is a curious sinking of the 
 earth, forming a zigzag trench across the field; 
 another of the same description will he observed in 
 the field, next to that in which the Marvel Stones 
 are situated, to which, I proceeded in a direct line, 
 by scaling a few stoue fences. The appearance of 
 the Marvel stones, is merely like a rocky floor, 
 rising a little above the general level of the ground, 
 and extending about two hundred and eighty feet in 
 length, and eighty in breadth, and when viewed 
 sideways with the hill, has a uniform appearance, 
 declining regularly with it : but from the top, or the 
 lower end, they appear full of holes of various di- 
 mensions, and deep channels, that exhibit a veiy 
 grotesque appearance, which is, most likely the ef- 
 fect of decomposition ; and rain may, perhaps, be 
 a considerable agent in that operation, for by the 
 hollows holding water, a small portion of the lime- 
 stone may become dissolved by it, and carried off by 
 succeeding showers ; thus the holes might be 
 gradually formed, and sometimes, by running into 
 each other, produce those grotesque channels and 
 perforations, with which it abounds. 
 
 There is a grey lichen upon these rocks, that 
 is sometimes regularly dotted with very minute, 
 black spots ; at others forming the lichon geogra- 
 phicus, grey and black. That the Marvel Stones 
 are a production of Nature, is very evident, 
 
 although sonic have imagined them to be a work of 
 F 2
 
 66 
 
 art : similar hollows are common to limestone so 
 exposed : this is therefore only remarkable, from its 
 presenting so large a surface, by which means a 
 greater number of the cavities become exhibited at 
 once. Returning to Small Dale, I pursued a direct 
 line for about two miles, across fields, to the Ebbing 
 and Flowing Well, and saw many swallows on the 
 way, and near an old lime-work, some rocks that 
 are similar to the Marvel Stones, but not near so 
 extensive a plot of them. 
 
 EXCURSION 
 
 FROM BUXTON TO DOVE-HOLES, EBBING AND FLOAT- 
 ING WELL, ELDON HOLE, SPEEDWELL MINE, AND 
 CASTLETON. 
 
 j\.S many objects of very considerable interest, are 
 included in this walk of twelve miles, I was aware 
 that investigation and sketching would afford good em- 
 ployment for the day : 1 therefore, determined to 
 commence it at an early hour. The morning proved 
 very favourable to my purpose, Aurora, had just 
 unfolded the curtains of the crimsoned east, and the 
 great source of light and heat, gilded alike the humble 
 cottage, the splendid mansion, and the towered tem- 
 ple. Hail! thou potent sun, splendid emblem of an 
 eternal mind ! thou vital source of many worlds exis- 
 tence ! deprived of thee, nature, would, reeling fall 
 from her emerald throne, and leave the world one 
 universal blank.
 
 67 
 
 " Behold the light emitted from the sun, 
 What more familiar, and what more unknown ! 
 While hy its spreading radiance it reveals, 
 All nature's face, it still itself conceals, 
 See how each morn it does its beams display 
 And on its golden wings bring back the day, 
 How soon the effulgent emanations fly, 
 Through the blue gulph of interposing sky ! 
 How soon their lustre all the region fills, 
 Smiles on the valiies, and adorns the hills!" 
 The road leads by Fairfield, a village so elevated 
 is completely to overlook Buxton ; its small towered 
 church, hecomes a pleasing object from many points 
 of view. From this village, the road to Castleton 
 turns to the left over a common called the Barms : 
 in this elevated situation is a large pool, which, in 
 the dryest summers contains a copious supply of 
 water. When it is considered that this part of the 
 country abounds with swallows, the existence of this 
 pool in so high a situation, appears rather singular. 
 Having proceeded about one mile from Fairfield, we 
 see the mountains about Castleton towards the right, 
 among which Mam Tor is distinguished by its ele- 
 phant-like form ; close on the left, Combs Moss* is 
 cloud-clapped ; the grey vapour, scarcely seems to 
 move although the sun's forceful beams play full upon 
 it ; sullen and slowly it now descends a little lower, 
 and now it stilly dwells again ; it forms an harmoni- 
 ous contrast to the clear cerulean sky, which is, in 
 this part of the heavens without another cloud. This 
 hill unites by an undulating line, with Ladylow, which 
 is a much smaller hill, approaching towards the cen- 
 
 * The lower part of this mountain consisting of inclosures 
 is called Black Edge.
 
 68 
 
 tre of the view, its outline is pleasingly broken. The 
 mountains, Kinder-Scout, and South-Head, fill the 
 centre part of the distance. On looking- back to- 
 wards Buxton a great chain of distant mountains 
 present some grand combinations for the pencil 
 especially when under the happy influence of such a 
 portion of air, that gives decision to the keeping ; 
 with those lights and shades, that flit over the plain 
 to deck alternately their majesti heads with train- 
 sient effects. The views here are not calculated to 
 form whole pictures, from a want of interest in the 
 foreground, and in the middle distance ; but as 
 studies of mountainous distances, they are well worth 
 the artists attention. About a mile further, brings 
 us to a cluster of houses called Dove-holes. A little 
 beyond the New Inn, is a swallow, close by the side 
 of the road where a rivulet enters into a fissure in 
 the limestone, and probably flows in a subterranean 
 channel to the Wye, which is several miles off. 
 About one mile and a half further brings us to Bar- 
 moor dough,* which is at the distance of five miles 
 from Buxton : in this dough is situated that singu- 
 lar and very great curiosity, the Ebbing and Flowing 
 Well : it will be observed close by the side of the road 
 on the right, and at about the distance of a third of 
 a mile from the turnpike house, where we enter the 
 clough ; it is a watering-place for cattle, and is 
 about five or six feet below the road, the hill rises 
 
 * Narrow Glens, are generally called doughs in the Peak 
 of Derbyshire ; although a Derbyshire divine who Las long 
 resided in. that district, calls it a steep hill.
 
 G9 
 
 with a steep ascent from it, to the height of about 
 cue hundred feet. 
 
 The cause of the intermittent flowing of this well 
 is generally supposed to proceed from the operation of 
 a natural siphon alone, which 1 must confess always 
 appeared to me an insupportable hypothesis, from 
 the consideration, that, a regular continuation of a 
 cause must produce a regularly continued effect, and 
 that it would require another agent, subject to alter- 
 nate changes to make the effect intermittent. 
 
 In all the accounts of Ebbing and Flowing 
 Wells I have met with, the only aim has been to 
 make out a siphon, and then, without any con- 
 sideration of the bearings between cause and effect, 
 the phenomenon is concluded to be accounted for ; 
 such an erroneous conclusion, has no doubt arisen 
 from the want of due attention to the subject ; for, 
 it cannot be supposed that Ferguson, (who I believe 
 first promulgated the siphon theory) did not tho- 
 roughly understand the principles of the siphon, as 
 well as the attraction of the interior surface of the 
 tube ; however, from a lax consideration of the lat- 
 ter, I have no doubt has arisen the theory, which I 
 conceive to be insupportable ; this supposition will 
 not perhaps appear groundless, when I come to 
 mention the result of my own experiments. Mr. 
 Ferguson has given sections to explain his theory, 
 and a plan of an apparatus to prove it by experiment. 
 In Nicholson's Cyclopedia, is also a section founded 
 on Ferguson's idea, only something varied in its de- 
 sign : the grand Cyclopedia, by Rees, follows the 
 same unsound track.
 
 70 
 
 Before I proceed to give a new theory to 
 account for this phenomenon, it may be adviseable, 
 first, to show the fallacy of the generally received 
 one. It is imagined, that a reservoir exists in the 
 hill above the well, which receives small rills of 
 water that find their way into it along subterranean 
 channels, and by filtration through the superincum- 
 bent strata; that a duct proceeds from the lower 
 part of it, which first rises in its progress, and then 
 descends to the well ; thus the channel is made to 
 assume the form of a siphon. It is then advanced, 
 that the water rising in the reservoir, expels the air 
 from the duct ; causing the siphon to act, and there- 
 by to empty it ; and that it must fill again, ere a 
 repetition of this could occur : this is supposed to 
 account for the intermittent flowing of the well. 
 Now let us suppose, that the different rills received 
 by the reservoir, in their collected state, will form a 
 column equal to half the dimension of the duct ; it 
 then follows, that it would escape over the bend 
 (which could only be half full) without expelling 
 the air, therefore the siphon could not act ; we 
 might as well expect the arch of a bridge to be filled 
 by a stream that is less than its own dimensions, as 
 to suppose that a column of water, whose substance 
 is only equal to one half the duct that it has to pass 
 through, would fill the channel. We will, in the 
 next place suppose the supply of water equal to the 
 duct, that is. such a quantity as would fill it ; surely 
 in that case, it will be admitted, that a continual, 
 and unvarying flow will be the result, for cause and 
 effect must be analagous; therefore a regularly
 
 continued cause, will produce an unvarying effect, 
 unless diverted by some intervening agent. From 
 these considerations, it became a matter of sur- 
 prize to me, that so erroneous an idea, that a siphon 
 alone, would account for the intermitting flow of 
 the well, should be so generally adopted ; 1 was 
 therefore induced, in a paper containing strictures on 
 a Reverend compiler's account of it, to pledge my- 
 self to shew why a siphon alone, could not produce 
 that effect, and also how, with the assistance of 
 another agent it might. 
 
 I will now mention what authors have advanced 
 respecting the appearances during the flowing and 
 ebbing of the well, as my own observations do not 
 corroborate them. It is said that a gurgling noise 
 attends the flowing, that in ebbing a vortex is formed 
 by the water running back, and that chaff being 
 thrown into it is taken down with it and reappears 
 as soon as the next flowing commences. 
 
 A regular flow of water 1 found constantly issued 
 from the well in a small stream ; this was also the 
 case when I visited it before, and its operations had 
 ceased for many weeks ; but it was now observable 
 that a flowing had very recently taken place, and 
 before I had waited half an hour it began to flow 
 again ; at first a gentle motion is perceived in the 
 water, which soon increases to a very considerable 
 stream, boiling up from several chinks in the lime- 
 stone, flowing over a flat space in which it rises to 
 the height of about five inches, discharging itself 
 into a sough that conveys it underneath the road. 
 It flowed four minutes and a half ; no gurgling, or
 
 72 
 
 any noise whatever attended it, nor was there any 
 appearance of a vortex, or of the water escaping by 
 any other means than that of the sough ; indeed, the 
 person who holds the ground assured me, that he 
 sometimes stops it in, to make a pool for his cattle ; 
 now, if there was any swallow in the limestone, 
 the water would he carried off by it, which would 
 prevent a pool from being formed. 
 
 It is calculated that twenty hogsheads of water 
 are thrown up per minute every time it flows, and 
 so far as appearances may go it certainly does not 
 seem to be over rated. 
 
 The periods of these Sowings are extremely va- 
 rious, depending on the quantity of rain that may 
 happen to fall ; sometimes they occur every ten 
 minutes, at others every half hour, or hour : once 
 in twenty-four hours or twice or thrice in that lime, 
 and in very dry seasons, it will cease to flow for 
 several weeks. When these variations are consi- 
 dered, and how small must he the supply of water 
 to cause a flowing to take place only once in twenty- 
 four hours, which is drawn off by the siphon or duct 
 in four minutes and a half, the very idea of such a 
 thread of water, causing a siphon of that magnitude 
 to act, certainly appears very absurd. 
 
 By an expeiiment made with a siphon, the bore 
 of which was full half an inch in diameter and was 
 inserted into the lower part of a vessel or reservoir, 
 I found it to carry off a smaller stream that was re- 
 regulated through a tundish, into the reservoir without 
 causingthe siphon to act ; this circumstance I consider 
 as sufficient proof, that the syphon theory is an erro- 
 
 i
 
 73 
 
 HCOUS one for the larger the bore of the siphon may 
 be, the less likely would it be to act. A siphon that is 
 only a quarter or three eighths of an inch in the bore, 
 Avill perform the operation ; but this arises from the 
 effect of the attraction of the interior surface of the 
 tube, by means of which, the bend of the siphon is 
 filled, and which causes it to act. Mr. Ferguson, no 
 doubt, used such a siphon in his experiments, and 
 might thus be induced to conclude, that it accounted 
 for the intermittent flowing of wells. 
 
 In a tube of a quarter of an inch bore, th 
 attraction of its interior surface overcomes the 
 power of gravity so much, that on being filled with 
 water and turning the open end down, it not only 
 holds the water in ; but its surface is also rendered 
 concave by its power, and a very considerable jerk 
 is required to force it from the tube : but if the bore 
 of the tube be three-eighths of an inch in diameter, 
 then, the attraction of the sides will but just hold 
 in the water, and the slightest motion will cause 
 it to quit the tube. I have been induced to be 
 thus far particular, to shew, that it would not be 
 giving the siphon a fair trial, unless the bor6 of it 
 was half an inch or more in diameter, in which the 
 effect of that attraction is lost. Conceiving that 
 sufficient facts have now been advanced, to prove 
 the fallacy of the generally received theory, to ac- 
 count for Ebbing and Flowing Wells ; 1 shall 
 now venture to offer another, supported by experi- 
 ment ; and, if it should not prove quite satisfactory, 
 yet, it may perhaps lead to the attainment of truth, 
 which, however simple it may be, is always of som 
 
 importance to science. 
 G
 
 74 
 
 In a sinali publication, called the " Pilot, or a 
 new Matlock, Buxton, and Castleton Guide", 1 first 
 pronounced the siphon theory to be insupportable, 
 and, that the discovery of a natural valve, would set 
 the question at rest: this was thought, by some, a too 
 hasty opinion to promulgate, without being backed 
 by experiment ; however, I felt so confident on the 
 gubject, that 1 could not withstand the opportunity 
 of laying it before the public, thinking, the idea 
 might be taken up, by some one more capable than 
 myself of elucidating it ; but I found most were at- 
 tached to the siphon theory, because they found it 
 mentioned in philosophical works ; whilst, few in- 
 deed, would fall in with my opinion : 1 therefore, 
 fait somewhat obliged to take up the subject. 
 
 In order to make a siphon act by a smaller sup- 
 ply than its channel Avould carry off, when in full 
 action ; something must prevent the escapement of 
 the water or a part of it, until the duct becomes filled ; 
 and then giveaway, to the accumulated pressure upon 
 it : so that when the reservoir is emptied, it resumes 
 its former position ; the flowing would then be inter- 
 mittent ; for this purpose 1 imagine a fragment of 
 rock to be so poised and situated in the duct, as not 
 only to choak up the channel so as to admit only a 
 small quantity of water to escape ; but also capable 
 of [sustaining the weight until the duct is filled ; 
 when, yielding to the pressure upon it, the siphon 
 Koon empties the reservoir; the stone then regains its 
 former position, and an intermitting flow must be 
 the result. Some may think the idea of a stone so 
 situated too fanciful to admit of probability ; but
 
 75 
 
 we have greater proofs of there being such, than 
 we have, of the existence of natural siphons of this 
 description, discharging twenty hogsheads of water 
 per minute : when it is considered, that the channel 
 in the limestone, in order to form a siphon, must be 
 entirely free from any chink that would admit the 
 least quantity of air, which would inevitably destroy 
 it ; such a channel appears to me far more fanciful, 
 than the idea of a stone so situated as to form a 
 natural valve. In my description of Bagsha^v's 
 Cavern at Bradwell, given in the present volume, 
 will be seen an account of a stone, (which appear* 
 to be about thirty hundred weight) so nicely poised, 
 that a very considerable vibratory motion may be 
 given to it, by the pressure of a single finger ; this 
 fact, renders the idea of a natural valve still more 
 probable ; it is also capable of rendering theth ory 
 more simple, because a common duct, will then 
 perform the operation without the aid of a siphon, 
 as will appear from the following experiments. 
 
 1 so formed and balanced a stone, as to make 
 it press against the end of a siphon, which, on filling 
 with water, was forced down by it, when the reser- 
 voir was soon emptied, and then the stone regained 
 its former position : the reservoir receiving a regular 
 supply of water, a fair display of the Ebbing and 
 Flowing Well was the result,* 1 now pierced a 
 
 *In an experiment on so small a scale, it will be necessary 
 to pierce a little hole in the siphon near to its lower extremity, 
 taking care to make it at a point lower than the other end, or 
 the siphon will be destroyed : this is to admit the air mor 
 freely into the tube, on its ceasing to operate, otherwise, the
 
 76 
 
 small hole into the siphon, for the purpose of redu- 
 cing it to a simple duct, and still the intermittent 
 flowings were produced : yet in, this case, it will 
 appear obvious, that the reservoir could only he 
 losvered, to the level of the lower part of the bend 
 of the tube ; however, it sufficiently illustrates this 
 principle that a common duct, with a natural 
 valve, will cause an intermittent flowing. f Al- 
 though this theory is extremely simple in its princi- 
 ple, yet, some one more competent than myself, 
 may hereafter, give another, that may prove still 
 more satisfactory : in that case, I shall not repiue 
 at the fall of my own, but feel a satisfaction, in. 
 having given rise to an inquiry, that may confute an, 
 error, and establish a fact. 
 
 stone coming to its situation too soon, causes a continued 
 stream to flow, in the same proportion, as the supply received 
 by the reservoir. 
 
 fit is evident that the natural valve, will account for all 
 the variations of time in the flowings of the well ; for the ca- 
 vity might be ten minutes or a month in filling, and the stone 
 will not give way, before that takes place ; and the irregular 
 form of such a stone valve, cannot be supposed to make a 
 close fit, it will therefore admit a certain portion of water 
 constantly to escape, which is precisely the case at the well. 
 
 The plate containing a section, illustrating the principle 
 of this theory ; with the representation of an apparatus, by 
 which the above experiments were made, will, perhaps, suffici- 
 cicntly elucidate, what I have advanced above. 
 
 The lettered references of both the figures in the plate 
 correspond ; so that one description will explain both. Admit 
 the reservoir A, to be supplied with water from B, and that 
 supply, to be less in quantity, than the duct of the siphon C,
 
 At the distance of about one mile from the 
 Well, is a small village called Sparrow Pit, where 
 several roads branch off, on the right to Tideswell, 
 on the left to Chapel, and forward to Castleton ; 
 about three quarters of a mile further, is Perry 
 Foot, two houses romantically situated between 
 two lofty hills, and embowered in a group of lux- 
 uriant sycamores. Half a mile further, is Eldon 
 Hill, in which, is that terrific chasm, called Eldon 
 Hole : persons on foot will readily find it, by keep- 
 ing along that side of the hill which faces towards 
 Perry Foot; it is situated about half-way up the 
 declivity, and at the distance of about half a mile 
 from the road. Some tourists say that it is situated 
 on the top of the hill; however, I would not 
 advise any one to seek it there, for, to the disap- 
 
 could carry off: the stone D, to be s poised, as to prevent 
 the escapement of a portion of the water that flows from the 
 reservoir A, which, accumulating: in the duct C, finally fills it; 
 when the pressure upon the stone D, becomes sufficient to 
 force it down to the position represented by the dotted line : 
 the water then escapes through the duct ; by its force keeps 
 the itone down, and boils up at the well as represented at E, 
 until the reservoir is emptied, the p r essure then ceasing, the 
 stone regains its former position. It will appear obvious, that 
 the same weight of water, will always be required to cause a 
 flowing at the well ; so that the same quantity (or nearly 
 so) will flow at the well, in we f , or dry weather, al- 
 though, in dry seasons it may flow only once in a day, or 
 week, when, iu very wet seasons, it will flow every tea 
 minutes. The small chink F, will carry off mud or sand, 
 that might otherwise accumulate about tlic stone D, and pre- 
 vent it from acting in the manner described. 
 G 2
 
 78 
 
 pointment of not meeting with it in that situation, 
 will be added the fatigue of ascending so high ; yet, 
 they, who can enjoy an extensive prospect of moun- 
 tain scenery, will meet with some compensation for 
 their trouble : Mam Tor, and the other mountains 
 about Castleton appear near at hand ; Kinder Scout 
 and South Head are seen, rearing their unwieldy 
 heads to the clouds, and the hills around Buxton, 
 &c. are within the comprehensive range taken in 
 by the eye from this elevated station. Those who 
 have a carriage, or ride on horseback, must keep 
 on the other side of the hill ; for this purpose the 
 turnpike road must be followed a little further, and 
 after passing through a gate on the right, proceed 
 about a quarter of a mile, then leave the car- 
 riage, and walk directly over the hill, keeping a 
 good distance below the summit, and the chasm will 
 be found on the declivity, rudely walled round, with 
 a door at the lower end ; this wall was raised to 
 prevent accidents, as some cattle had been precipi- 
 tated down the dreadful abyss: perhaps the be- 
 nighted traveller has also here met an unknown 
 fate, horse and rider both crushed by the rocky 
 jaws of the yawning gulph ! for ever swallowed, 
 nor heard of more ! 
 
 The opening of this horrid chasm is about sixty 
 feet in length, and about twenty in the widest part ; 
 herbage is seen growing upon the rocks, at a great 
 depth within the fissure, which has rather a singular 
 appearance on looking down such a gulph. Several 
 persons have let down the plummet for the purpose 
 of ascertaining the depth of Eldon Hole. Cotton
 
 79 
 
 let down eight hundred and eighty-four yards of 
 line, eighty of which passed into water, without 
 reaching 1 the bottom. Another gentleman let down 
 nine hundred and thirty-three yards which did not 
 reach the bottom. 
 
 An account of a descent made into this fissure, 
 by a Mr. Lloyd, in the sixty-first volume of the 
 Philosophical Transactions, is, perhaps, the most 
 satisfactory one hitherto published. " He was let 
 down by two ropes about forty fathoms long 1 : for the 
 first twenty yards, though he descended obliquely, he 
 could assist himself with his hands and his feet ; 
 but below this, the rock projecting in large irregular 
 crags, he found it very difficult to pass ; and on 
 descending ten yards more, he perceived that the 
 rope by which he was suspended, was at least 
 six yards from the perpendicular, from hence, 
 the breadth of the chink was about three yards, 
 and the length about six ; the sides were very 
 irregular, and the crags were covered with moss, 
 being besides wet and dirty ; within fourteen 
 yards of the bottom, the rock opened on the east 
 side, and he swung till he reached tbe floor of the 
 cavern, which was at the depth of sixty-two yards 
 from the mouth of the chasm ; the light, however, 
 which came from above, was sufficient for the read- 
 ing of any print. Here he found the cavern to con- 
 sist of two parts ; that in which he alighted, was 
 like an oven, the other where he first be<ian to 
 swing, was a vast dome, shaped like the inside of a 
 glass-house, and a small arched passage formed a 
 communication between them ; in this passage, the 
 stones which had been thrown in at the top formed
 
 80 
 
 a slope, extending from the wall, at the west side 
 of the first dome, almost to the bottom of the second 
 cave or oven, so that the further end of the cave 
 was lower by twenty-five yards, than where he 
 alighted. The diameter of this cavern he judged to 
 be about fifty yards; the top he could not trace 
 with his eye, but, had reason to believe, that it 
 extended to a prodigious height ; for, when he was 
 nearly at the top of one of the encrusted rocks, 
 which was an elevation of at least twenty yards, he 
 could then see no inclosure of the dome." 
 
 " After climbing np a few loose stones, on the 
 south side of the second cavern, he descended again 
 through a small aperture into a little cave about four 
 yards long, and two yards high, which was lined 
 throughout with a kind of sparkling stalactites of a 
 fine deep yellow colour, with some small stalactical 
 drops hanging from the roof. He found a noble 
 room of about ninety feet in height, of the same 
 kind of encrustation, facing the first entrance ; as 
 he proceeded to the north, he came to a large stone, 
 that was covered with the same substance, and un- 
 der it he found a hole two yards deep, that was 
 uniformly lined with it. From the edge of this 
 hole sprung a rocky ascent, sloping like a buttress 
 against the side of the cavern, and consisting of 
 vast, solid, round masses, of the same substance 
 and colour; he climbed up this ascent to the height 
 of about sixty feet, and got some fine pieces of 
 stalactites, which hunp from the craggy sides of the 
 cavern, that joined the projection he had amended, 
 He now descended with some dim-, ulty and danger, 
 and soon came to another kind of incrustations, of
 
 81 
 
 a different kind and colour ; these being much 
 rougher, and not tinged with yellow, but brown. At 
 the top of this he found a small cavern, opening into 
 the side of the vault, wherein he saw vast drops of 
 stalactites, hanging like icicles from every part of the 
 roof, som of which were four or five feet long, and 
 as thick as a man's body. The greater part of the 
 walls of the large cavern, was lined with encrusta- 
 tions of three kinds; the first was the deep yellow 
 stalactites, the second was a thin coating, resembling 
 a light-coloured varnish, this covered the limestone 
 and reflected the light of the candles with great 
 splendour j the third was a rough efflorescence, every 
 shoot of which, resembled a kind of rose-flower." 
 
 " He now returned throngh the arch, which se- 
 parates the two vaults, rascendin<j the slope of loose 
 stones, which greally lessened the magnificence of 
 the entrance into the inner cavern. When he had 
 again fastened the rope to his body, he gave the sig- 
 nal to be drawn up, which he found much more dan- 
 gerous and difficult than being let down, on account 
 of his weight drawing the rope between the frag- 
 ments of the rocks, to which he adhered, and his 
 body jarring against the sides, notwithstanding the 
 defence he made with his hands : the rope also loosen- 
 ed the stones over his head, the fall of which he 
 dreaded every moment, and if any of them had fallen, 
 he must inevitably have perished. Being obliged to 
 ascend with his face towards the rock on one side, 
 he could not make any particular observations on 
 the rocks that were behind, or on each side of him ; 
 he saw, however, under the projection ef the rock 
 where the passage first became narrow, the entrance
 
 82 
 
 of a cavern which seemed to penetrate a great way, 
 but, he could not gel into it. A gentleman who lived 
 near the spot, told Mr. Lloyd, after his return from 
 this subteranean expedition, that there was formerly, 
 in the floor of the great cavern, near to the large 
 heap of stones, a second shaft, which had been co- 
 vered by the miners, and was said to have gone down 
 a vast depth, and to hare had water at the bottom, 
 this was probably, the direction that the plummet 
 took, which was let down by Mr. Cotton/' This co- 
 vering has now probably fallen in, for a large stone 
 being thrown down the abyss, is heard for a length 
 of time, that indicates a far greater depth than that, 
 which is mentioned by Mr. Lloyd ; we see it bound- 
 ing from rock to rock, and break into many pieces : 
 by listening attentively, we hear them striking the 
 sides, with fainter and fainter sounds, until they gra- 
 dually die away ; so that we perceive no finish 
 that can enable HS to say it has reached the bot- 
 tom ; whether this effect might be produced, by the 
 souud reverberating in caverns belew or not, I do not 
 feel competent to give an opinion, therefore, I leave 
 that question for those to determine, who are skilled 
 in the properties of sound. 
 
 After returning to the tnrn-pike road, about 
 two miles and a half further, brings us to the rocky 
 chasm called the Wimiats, orWindgatcs, from a strong 
 current of air that generally sweeps through the ra- 
 vine : the rocks on each side of it rise to a great 
 height : their grotesque appearances savage as- 
 pects denuded and unwieldy forms, mark them with 
 so strong a character of sullen grandeur, which is so 
 entirely thfcir own, that their peculiarity forcibly
 
 commands our notice; no sylvan tresses wave over 
 their gloomy brows, or decorate their giant feet; 
 the affrighted sylphs, trembling, shun the horrid 
 place, fitted only for Cyclopean monsters to graze 
 their surly flocks upon ; as we descend the steep, 
 winding road/ the eye is obliged to associate with 
 the hideous crags that heave their enormous heads 
 a thousand feet in height : now the dark and rug- 
 ged precipices seem to shut in the chasm, and to 
 give a frowning denial to all further progress ; perse- 
 vering, however, we find the road threads the infrac- 
 tous glen; creeping servilely at the feet of the 
 scowling cliffs, until at a sudden turn, an Arcadian 
 vale bursts on the enraptured sight; the mind 
 becomes exhilarated by a contrast so striking and 
 instantaneous, that it readily quits the contempla- 
 tion of the gloomy ravine, to view the beauties of 
 the luxurieut vale of Castleton, whose fertile bosom, 
 teeming \vith the riches of life, is amply spread out 
 with rich enclosures, through which,, several rivulets 
 pursue their winding course* ; lovely "garden of the 
 Peak" (how well does it merit that name !) may the 
 /industry of its inhabitants never lack a stimulus to 
 cultivate it ; nor their hearts, those grateful feelings 
 due to the Divine Giver, to whose beneficence, they 
 are indebted for the enjoyment of their terrestrial 
 paradise. On the right a castled cliff appears, 
 once the residence of a proud Peverel, who, in an 
 evil hour, blasted his honours, by the committal of 
 that most enormous and unnatural crime the mur- 
 
 *This valley is said to bear a utrong resemblance to th 
 rale of Clwd, in Wales, though much smaller.
 
 84 
 
 <ler of his fellow-man : he fled an outcast, and his 
 extensive possessions were seized by the crown: 
 like the family, this once stately caslle is fast moul- 
 dering away, to meet in one common ohlivious fate. 
 The village of Castleton, with its low-towered church 
 clusters at tke base of the cliff, and derives its name 
 from the castle. Lower down in the vale, appears 
 the village of Hope, crested with a spired church, 
 and near it is Brough, a village where the Romans 
 had a station. This fertile valley, is six miles in 
 length, two in breadth, and one thousand feet in 
 depth, from the general level of the surrounding 
 mountains. 
 
 Here, at the foot of the Winnats, is that great 
 curiosity, the Speedwell Mine; the guide, or con- 
 ductor into it, resides at the small public house on the 
 right; near to it, is the entrance of the mine, and 
 although it proved an unsuccessful undertaking, yet, 
 it is considered to be a most excellent piece of mi- 
 ning; displaying great ingenuity of design, consum- 
 mate skill in the workmanship, and persevering con- 
 fidence, in following up the plan to so great an ex- 
 tent. On viewing this Herculean labour, we cannot 
 help regretting, that a " negative success" attended 
 the bold enterprize. 
 
 We first descend through a spacious arched 
 tault by one hundred and six steps, which were for- 
 med for the purpose of conveying the boats down to 
 the subterranean canal. On arriving at the bottom 
 we are introduced into a boat, which is ferried along 
 by the guide, (who is an intelligent miner) pushing 
 with his hands against the sides of the rocky tunnel. 
 The limestone, through which this tunnel is driven,
 
 85 
 
 is very hard and compact, and remarkably free from 
 shakes or fissures, to a great extent; we cannot 
 therefore, help noticing how well the work is executed, 
 especially when it is considered that it is entirely blasted 
 with gun-powder ; a spacious excavation is also effected 
 by the same means for the purpose of mooring boats 
 in, andadmitting them to pass eachother, when atwork. 
 As we are ferried along, the guide points out the different 
 veins of ore that were crossed in driving the level : the 
 boat frequently strikes against the rock and the sound 
 is loudly reverberated along the subterranean channel; 
 now we begin to hear faintly, the distant roar of a 
 waterfall which keeps increasing until we reach the 
 terrific chasm wherein it is situated ; the vastness of 
 this subterranean fissure exceeds every other that can 
 be visited in the Peak ; the roof is not rendered visi- 
 ble by rockets ascending four hundred and fifty feet. 
 The tremendous roar of the cascade is truly appal- 
 ling; it precipitates from the canal in an unbroken 
 fall of three hundred and nine feet, into a gulph of 
 Stygian gloom, not unaptly termed, the Bottomless 
 Pit, from its having swallowed thirty-two tons of rub- 
 bish per day (Sundays excepted) for seven years 
 without having made any alteration in the depth of 
 the water which always remained three hundred and 
 eighty-four feet, which, with the cascade makes the 
 depth of this part of the fissure from where we stand, 
 six hundred and ninety-three feet. To account for 
 the immense quantity of rubbish thrown into this 
 gulph making no alteration in its depth, it is supposed, 
 that 'rom where the plummet lodges there is an incli- 
 ned communication with other caverns that are more 
 G
 
 m 
 
 neeply situated, into which, the rubbish has found" 
 its way. The guide now climbed up I be rocks by 
 the means of Stemples* to the height of two hundred 
 JUK! forty feet where he placed a Bengal Li^ht which 
 gave a capacious illumination to the craggy place, 
 exhibiting rocks of such imposing aspects, and so 
 wildly disposed, that they became objects of amaze- 
 ment and awe; still the roof was not discernible : we 
 are here one thousand and fifty nine feet in a per- 
 pendicular direction, from the surface of the moun- 
 tain, and this immense opening probably approaches 
 nearly to it. 
 
 This is one of those uncommon features of 
 nature, so stupendous and terrific so truly awful 
 and sublime, that a description from the raoet 
 powerful pen would convey hut a faint idea of the 
 wondrous spectacle. It is those only, who on the 
 spot contemplate the scene, that can form any ade- 
 quate conception of its awful wildness, and terrific 
 superiority. 
 
 " Amazing scsr>e! behold ! the glooms disclose, 
 
 I see the rivers in their infant beds ! 
 
 Deep, deep, I hear them labouring to get free ? 
 
 ] see the leaning strata, artful rang'd ; 
 
 The gaping fissures to receive the rains, 
 
 The melting snows, and ever-dripping fogs." 
 The length of the subterranean canal from the steps 
 to the cavern is two thousand two hundred and fifty 
 feet, in which space, seventeen veins of lead ore 
 were crossed : the canal is carried over the fissure 
 
 * Pieces of wood, fastened into tlie rock, by which mi- 
 ners descend, or ascend the min >s.
 
 87 
 
 by a strong arch, and is continued again, in the hard 
 limestone, two thousand -two hundred and fifty feet 
 farther, crossing eleven other veins. In this 
 country the veins of lead ore run east and west ; 
 the design therefore was, to intersect them, by 
 driving a level or navigation mine, in a north and 
 south direction, which was certainly a bold idea : 
 but all the veins that were crossed, proved so bad, 
 that a very inconsiderable quantity of ore was ob- 
 tained ; had only one, out of the twenty-eight that 
 were found, proved good, it would have covered the 
 whole expense of the undertaking, and produced a 
 profit to the adventurers. 
 
 All the rubbish produced by the latter exca- 
 vation, was thrown into the bottomless pit, for 
 which it proved a very convenient receptacle. 
 
 Three sets of workmen were employed in this 
 undertaking, five to each set, by which means, the 
 work was constantly carried on, night and day, 
 (Sundays excepted) for eleven years : each man 
 used one pound of gunpowder per day, (for the 
 whole excavation was effected by blasting) the quan- 
 tity used, amounted to 51043ibs. The sum ex- 
 pended in this undertaking, amounted to sl4,QW 
 about forty-five years ago, but at the present time, 
 it is said, that such a work would not cost less than 
 ^50,000. The principal proprietor, a Mr. OHkdeu 
 of Staffordshire, was ruined by this undertaking 
 
 On returning', the guide places a candle on 
 the side of the tunnel, which has a curious effect 
 as we leave it, and when we are returned to the 
 steps, it is seen dimly glimmering, at the distance 
 f more than two thousand feet. Although there is
 
 88 
 
 only one grand cavern to be seen in this subterranean 
 aquatic excursion, it is so decidedly different to any 
 other in the Peak, and possesses such extraordinary 
 grandeur, that we do not wish to see more. Having 
 ascended the steps, we hail the lively appearance of 
 the cerulean sky and the green enamelled fields, 
 with increased delight. Now the declining sun gilds 
 the fertile plain with lengthened gleams, that alter- 
 nate with the mountain- shadows thrown long and 
 broad across its ample bosom (where the sparkling 
 brook is seen to dance along its mazy course) and 
 the empurpled hills tipped by the solar rays with 
 burnished gold, display imperial richness ; so that 
 the brilliance of the scene makes the heart leap 
 with joy. How powerful is the influence of con- 
 trast upon the mind ! with what a peculiar zest do we 
 enjoy the transparent tints that are now spread be- 
 fore us. (rendered more sweet by their opposite 
 quality) to the opaque colouring of the tartarian 
 gloom that we have just left. 
 
 CASTLETON. 
 
 THE CHURCH, CASTLE, PEAK CAVERN, CAVE, DALE, 
 LOSE HILL, E0ALE, TRAYCLIFF, BLUE JOHN 
 MINE, MAM TOR, AND THE ODIN MINK. 
 
 VMSTLETON, with its immediate vicinity, is 
 extremely interesting to the mineralogist and geolo_ 
 gist ; to the antiquary and to the artist ; it afford, 
 abundant materials for their various pursuits ; and 
 even they, whom science or art fail to delight, may
 
 89 
 
 here find an optical feast, if variety can pL-ase. 
 
 The church has a low tower, but it has no 
 claim to elegance : ^ i g dedicated to St. Edmund, 
 and the living is a vicarage. No monumental in- 
 scriptions worthy of record for their fine feeling, or 
 elegant composition, grace this church. 
 
 Opposite to the Castle Inn, is a warehouse, 
 where the Derbyshire amethystine fluor spar, and 
 marble ornaments are sold ; also minerals, &c.* 
 The manufacture of the ornaments display much 
 skill in the execution, great taste in the design of 
 the various articles (consisting of vases, caivdela- 
 bria, altars, &c.) with a knowledge of the antique ; 
 as some of the arlicies seem to be formed after 
 the Etruscan, Grecian, and Roman antiquities. 
 
 The articles that are formed of the amethystine 
 fluor spar are truly beautiful ; it is the production 
 of a mine that is situated in a mountain called 
 Traycliff, which extends from Mam Tor to the Win- 
 uats, and is about the distance of one mile from 
 Castleton : this is the only place in the world, that 
 furnishes the beautiful amethystine fluor, sufficiently 
 compact for the purpose of being -formed into orna- 
 ments: it has been very justly denominated by an 
 intelligent foreigner "the most beautiful production 
 of- the mineral kingdom", and indeed, the more it is 
 examined, the more it will be admired. Foreigners 
 
 *Mr Mawe, mineralogist, in the Stran;!, Loirl-in, is the 
 proprietor of this warehouse. He is also author of the Min- 
 eralogy of Dcrhyshire ; a Treatise on Diamonds anii Pie- 
 cious Stones; Travels in Brazil ; Lessons on Minentlogy, &c. 
 H 2
 
 90 
 
 have long highly esteemed it, yet the nobility of this 
 country, for some time regarded it with indifference, 
 but they now appreciate its importance; it is there- 
 fore found ornamenting their most elegant apart- 
 ments, as well as enriching their cabinets. It dis- 
 plays great richness of colour, that sometimes 
 wanders in sportire zigzag veins around a nucleus ; 
 at others, forming a mass of irridescent triangles 
 that sparkle as the angle of vision is varied upon it ; 
 sometimes the colour is distributed in various 
 patches, and where the crystallization is cut across 
 it frequently assumes the appearance of a honey- 
 comb. The ornaments that are made of the black 
 marWe have a fine effect, and they are highly en- 
 riched with various ornaments and figures. 
 
 His Imperial Highness the Grand Duke Mi- 
 chael of Russia, in his progress through this 
 country, in July, 1818, purchased a variety of or- 
 naments of the fluor spar, and black marble, at 
 Mr. Mawe's manufactory in Derby.* His Imperial 
 Highness visited the curiosities of Matlock, and 
 then proceeded to Chatsworth, the seat of his 
 Grace the Duke of Devonshire, and from thence to 
 Castleton, where with his suit he passed the even- 
 ing, visited the curiosities of the place, and the 
 next day proceeded to Sheffield. 
 
 The castle, from its lofty situation, completely 
 overlooks the village, and the valley of Castleton ; 
 and was, no doubt, an impregnable fortress before 
 
 *This manufactory, is well worth \isitingby the strangea 
 'who may happen to travel through Derby. It is a more 
 extensive concern than any other of the kind.
 
 91 
 
 the use of gunpowder was known. It is supposed 
 to have been one of the most ancient fortresses in 
 Britain : the approach to it, was hy means of tra- 
 verses made en that side of the hill, which 
 faces the village; and, although thus aided, the 
 ascent is still very steep and difficult. It is sup- 
 posed, that the Saxons first raised a bulwark here ; 
 there is also some evidence that the Romans were 
 ncquaintedwith the spot; for about twelve years 
 ago, after much heavy rain, a quantity of earth 
 and rubbish gave way, a little below the keep ; it 
 fell down the rock that is immediately over the Peak 
 Cavern, and amongst it, some Roman coins were 
 found, one of which is gold, and of the reign of Au- 
 gustus Caesar. A gentleman, visiting the cavern soon 
 after, purchased it for a guinea. The walls of the 
 area are supposd to be of Saxon workmanship, and 
 within the keep (which is imagined to be of Norman 
 erection) are traces of the Saxon zigzag ornament, 
 that evidently, does not belong to the design of the 
 present building: therefore it appears, that the keep 
 was partly erected with the materials of a more an- 
 cient structure, which most likely occupied the 
 same situation, or nearly so. 
 
 That there was some kind of fortress here, before 
 the Normans possessed it, we have the further evi- 
 dence of Doomsday book, for proof, wherein Terra 
 Castelli is mentioned. It was, however possessed 
 by William Peverell natural son of the conqueror, 
 and had the appellation of Peverel's Place in the 
 Peke. The wall that surrounds the castle yard, 
 is still, in some parts very lofty, and the keep is in 
 a very ruinous state.
 
 92 
 
 What awe-inspiring thoughts arise, 
 Whilst fallen grandeur we survey, 
 That lofty tower once brav'd the skies '. 
 But now it moulders fast away. 
 Sad silence uncontroul'd doth reign 
 Within these walls where joy prevail'd : 
 In contrast now time's mournful train, 
 Usurps the round where mirth regaled 
 The castle is accessible only on that side of the hill 
 where the traverses were made ; precipitous rocks 
 present very formidable opposition, in every other 
 direction, and although no well has been discovered, 
 by means of which the garrison might be supplied 
 with water, yet it is supposed that they obtained it 
 by some means, from a spring in a glen, called the 
 Cave, which runs along the southern side of the 
 eminence on which the castle stands. It is said to 
 be the water from this spring that percolates through 
 the limestone fissures, into the Peak Cavern, and 
 falls in large drops into that part which is denomi- 
 nated Roger Rain's House. 
 
 A fosse and rampart, called the town ditch, 
 nearly surrounded Castleton ; that part only, which 
 is towards the castle being left open, for the pur- 
 pose of communicating freely with the garrison. 
 
 Mr. Pilkington, in his view of Derbyshire, 
 gives the following account of a tournament that 
 was held here, at the time when the castle was in 
 the possession of William Peverell. '* It was oc- 
 casioned by the following circumstance, which 
 strongly marks the gallantry of the times when it 
 happened. William, a valiant knight, and sister's 
 son to Pain Peverell, lord of Whittington, in the 
 county of Salop, had two daughters, one of whom
 
 ^ 93 
 
 called Mellet, was no less distinguished, by a martial 
 spirit than her father. This appeared from the decla- 
 ration which she made, respecting the choice of a hus- 
 band. She firmly resolved to marry none but a knight 
 of great prowess : and her father to confirm her pur- 
 pose, and to procure and encourage a number of suit- 
 ors, invited all noble young men, who were inclined to 
 enter the lists, to meet at Peverel's Place, in the 
 Peke, and there decide their pretensions by the use 
 of arms, declaring at the same time, that whoever 
 vanquished his competitors, should receive his 
 daughter, with his castle of Whittington, as a re- 
 ward of his skill and valour. Guarine de Meez, 
 a branch of the house of Lorraine, and an ancestor 
 of the lords Fitzwarrine, hearing this report, re- 
 paired to the place above mentioned. He had a sil- 
 ver shield, with a peacock for his crest, and there 
 engaged with a son of the King of Scotland, and also 
 with a Baron of Burgoyne, and vanquishing them 
 both, obtained the prize for which he fought." 
 
 William, son of the above William Peverell, 
 having poisoned Ranulph Earl of Chester, fled to 
 a monastery, (supposed Lenton near Nottingham) 
 where he was shorn a monk. But, on hearing that the 
 King (Henry the Second) was coming that way, and 
 fearing 1 his resentment, he fled, leaving his extensive 
 possessions to the King's disposal, who, after a lapse 
 of some years, gave part of them, with the castle of 
 Pec, to John, earl of Mortaigne, afterwards King^ 
 
 Hugh de Nevil, was appointed governor of the 
 castle, by King John. The barons who united to op- 
 posed the tyranny of John, .afterwards obtained pos- 
 session of it, but were dislodged by William de Fer-
 
 94 
 
 rers, the seventh earl of Derby, who took the castle 
 by assault, for which service he was constituted gover- 
 nor. King Edward the second made a free grant 
 of the castle and honour of Peke, with the forest 
 of High Peke, to John earl of Warren, to hold du- 
 ring his life. 
 
 This castle and forest, afterwaids formed part 
 of the nuptial portion of Joan, sister to King Ed- 
 ward the Third, on her marriage with David prince 
 of Scotland. John of Gaunt obtained a grant of 
 the castle, in the forty-sixth year of the reigu of 
 King Edward the Third, and it became vested in the 
 duchy of Lancaster. 
 
 From the twenty-eighth year of Henry the 
 Second, many different persons are recorded as 
 having held the castle ; it now belongs to his Grace 
 the Duke of Devonshire. It is said, " that the 
 records of the Miner's Court were kept here, until 
 they -were removed to Tutbury Castle, in the tim 
 of Queen Elizabeth." 
 
 At the foot of the castle hill, we enter Cave 
 Dale, through a narrow chink in the rock, which 
 is only five or six feet in width, however, it pre- 
 sently widens ; yet, it is but a narrow dale alto- 
 gether. Its rocks have a very wild and romantic 
 character; gloomy seclusion, heightened by the 
 frowning ruins of the castle, which surmounts u 
 bold ciiff, pervades the scene : so sudden a transition 
 from a peopled village to so solitary a place, cannot 
 fail to excite particular notice. The human mind 
 is always more or less delighted with the singularities 
 of nature's scenery, and when taken by surprize, 
 ncorrect ideas are sometimes formed of their qua-
 
 95 
 
 lity ; hence some tourists have mistaken singularity 
 for picteresque beauty. The castle here assumes 
 a more hold and romantic appearance than from any 
 other situation I have met with ; and although the 
 dale he wanting in wood and water, yet it will be 
 found to afford several good subjects for sketching, 
 especially from the upper part, where a view down 
 the ravine is very finely composed. Having proceeded 
 about half a mile up be dale, we comi; to an irregu- 
 lar basaltic column. Mr. Mawe, in his Mineralogy 
 of Derbyshire, says "it is as hard as any basalt 
 lie had any where seen," and that "from it, he 
 had broken pieces containing jasper, calcedony, and 
 quartz." The outside is decomposed, so is also an 
 adjoining stratum of toadstone. 
 
 The guide to the Peak Cavern, or the Devil's 
 Cave, is generally aware of strangers being in Cas- 
 tieton, for he closely attends the inns, when he is 
 not with visitants in the cavern: he will be found 
 an intelligent and communicative man. The way 
 leads by a number of cottages, along the side of a 
 rivulet that flows from the cavern, which after heavy 
 rain is seen to boil up from underneath the rock, at 
 the entrance of the cave, and dashes over fragments 
 of limestone that lie in its channel : as we proceed 
 up the gloomy recess towards the entrance of the 
 cavern, streams from each side will be seen issuing 
 into that, which flows from it, with considerable 
 rapidity. A fissure in the limestone will also -be 
 pointed out ; it was an immense vein of lead ore, 
 which probably proved a valuable prize to the Ko- 
 mans, for it appears that, those conquerors worked 
 the mines here, as a bar of lead was found inscribed
 
 96 
 
 with the name of one of their emperors. And it 
 is also highly probable, that the restrictive law of 
 the Romans, respecting the getting of lead, was 
 caused by the abundance of ore procured here. 
 Camden is of opinion, that Derbyshire is alluded to 
 by Pliny, who says, " in liritain, on the surface of 
 the ground, lead is dug up in such plenty, that a law 
 was made on purpose to stint them to a set quan- 
 tity." 
 
 As we proceed up the craggy ravine, the nod- 
 ding ruins of the castle appear singularly situated 
 on the verge of a lofty perpendicular rock ; and, 
 now turning round a sloping bank, an instantaneous 
 view of the yawning cavern, presents a scene so 
 uncommon so truly impressive and sublime, that 
 the wondrous spectacle for a time, absorbs our 
 whole attention. A tremendous flat arch, one hun- 
 dred and twenty feet in width, and forty- two feet 
 in height, (the receding 'depth of which, was not 
 visible) and supporting a lofty perpendicular rock, 
 at the end of a gloomy recess, is a scene that can- 
 not be contemplated without emotion. AVitliin this 
 vast hollow, a manufacture of twine and packthread 
 is carried on ; many persons are emplyed ; we see 
 men, women, and children, busily moving, about in 
 the dark vacuity; as they spin and recede, they 
 become gradually lost in the gloom, yet, by walking 
 backwards whilst at work, they receive sufficient' 
 lijrht for their purpose, from its being directly be- 
 fore them ; two rude cottages are also situated 
 within the arch. Although these have a singular, 
 and even wtiimsical appearance, yet it will be al- 
 lowed, that they diminish the terrific effect, which
 
 97 
 
 an unpeopled cavern of such magnitude must pro- 
 duce; when imagination in her wanderings, might 
 fancy it a Cyclopean cave, and fearing the arrival 
 of Polyphemus, judge it a wiser experiment to es- 
 cape by a precipitous retreat, than venture the No- 
 man deception. Beyond that part of the cavern, 
 which is occupied by the twine spinners, we pass a 
 detached rock, when a gradual descent brings us to 
 the interior entrance of a series of vast subterranean 
 vaults ; this is about two hundred and fifty feet 
 from the first entrance. Here day-light, shorn of 
 its power, renders artificial light necessary, and we 
 are now provided with candles. The guide unlocks 
 the door of the inner apartments ; a low gloomy 
 passage, where we are obliged to stoop, as we 
 proceed along for the space of about sixty feet, 
 when we enter a spacious vault, called the Bell- 
 house, where we are glad to embrace the opportu- 
 nity of standing upright again. Pursuing the path a 
 little further, we perceive that the roof of the cave, 
 and the water nearly meet, and we imagine further 
 progress impossible. " Here" observed a late tra- 
 veller, "we stood sometime on the brink; and 
 as the light of our dismal torches, which emitted a 
 black smoke, reflected our pale images from the 
 bottom of the lake, we almost conceived that we 
 saw a troop of shades starting from an abyss, to pre- 
 sent themselves before us." Our guide now plunged 
 into the water, stoomng as he proceeded, to fetch his 
 boat which had drifted to the other side : in it, 
 clean straw is spread, upon which there is just room 
 sufficient for two persons to lie down, for the pur-
 
 98 
 
 pose of being ferried over this Styx. However this 
 modern Charon, will be found more polite than the 
 Charon of old is represented to us, for he suffers 
 his passengers to occupy the bark, without intru- 
 ding himself into it, kindly wading in the Stygian 
 waters, and gently pushing his freight along. Nor 
 will he be found surly as old Charon is said to have 
 been, but quite the reverse, for he is very commu- 
 nicative, merry, and fond of his glass. After a 
 voyage of nearly fifty feet, between rock and water, 
 he lands his passengers in safety, on the shore of 
 the Grand Saloon ; and grand indeed it is ! vast- 
 ness, rudeness, and gloom, we here see in sub- 
 lime combination. A number of lighted candles 
 are distributed above at a considerable distance, which 
 serve to give us an idea, of the vast size of this 
 tremendous vault ; they appear like stars, and illu- 
 minate so little, that they seem only to " render 
 darkness visible." Hence we step over the stream, 
 to Roger Rain's House, where water nitrates 
 through the roof, and falls down in large drops. We 
 next come to the Chancel, and are sainted with the 
 sudden chaunt of a choir of singers ; but they are 
 not the heaven-inspiring tones of a Cecelia, " that 
 drew an angel down" ; but more in unison with 
 these lower regions, named after the King of dark- 
 ness, and where darkness holds an everlasting 
 reign. After a stave or two, these vocal performers 
 produce a number of lighted candles, when we 
 behold them on a rocky gallery, at a great height. 
 These lights shew the rude arches and vatness of this 
 subterranean Cathedral with fine effect ; yet much 
 Tartarian obscurity still remains, wherein the imagi-
 
 1)9 
 
 nation wanders with a ve. The massive fragments 
 that bestrew the floor of this immense vacuity, it 
 soon converts into mouldering tombs, and with a 
 pleasing dread goes on, uniting all the parts into an 
 accordant whole. The harp, if well managed here, 
 wXmld produce a grand effect ; first, by lightly 
 touching its trembling strings, the effect of distance 
 would be produced ; its vibrations sometimes dying 
 away, and then increasing, would give the effect of 
 an approaching intricate winding track, that some- 
 times shuts in, and at others, allows a more free pas- 
 sage to the sound ; and now, with bolder hands to 
 sweep the strings ; a li^lit at the same time shewing 
 the hoary bard, would be far more novel and pleasing 
 than the discordant screams and croaks of the 
 singers. 
 
 We now proceed to a part with a flat roof, 
 called the Devil's Cellar; and then, by an easy des- 
 cent of forty steps, to the Half-way House, where 
 we hear a rumbling of water. Walking by the side 
 of the stream, which we twice step over, sometimes 
 being obliged to stoop by the way, for about fifty 
 paces, we arrive at the Hanging Rock. The rivu- 
 let still murmuring, we cross it again, and soon 
 arrive at the Devil's Hall. It seems as if a studied 
 desire to please his Sooty Highness, prevailed here, 
 by the dedication of particular parts of this subter- 
 ranean wonder, to his Dark Majesty : yet the cham- 
 bers selected for this purpose, are not, by any 
 means, so grand as the Chancel, and others; so, 
 that they were bold enough, howevef, to give the 
 Author of Mischiet an inferior station, and thus to 
 brave his malice!
 
 100 
 
 About thirty paces from the Devil's Hall, bring 
 us to Gloucester Hall, a spacious vacuity about one 
 hundred and eighty feet in height. His Royal 
 Highness, the late Duke of Gloucester, explored 
 the cavern to this vault, on which account it was 
 named Gloucester Hall. Twenty paces farther is 
 Great Tom of Lincoln, so called from a great hollow 
 in the roof, resembling the interior of a bell, an 
 excavation, that has a very extraordinary appear- 
 ance. A little beyond this, the roof and the water 
 arc so near together, as to prevent all further pro- 
 gress : however the rock has been blasted with 
 gunpowder, for the space of twenty yards, fol- 
 lowing the direction of the stream, in the hope of 
 discovering other caverns ; no prospect of this 
 appearing, the work was relinquished. We are 
 here two thousand two hundred and fifty feet, from 
 the first entrance of the cavern, and from the 
 surface of the mountain, eight hundred and ten feet. 
 
 The stream comes engulpbed, four miles from 
 the Manchester road, which has been proved by 
 chaff being thrown into i., finding its way to the 
 cavern. 
 
 We are now treated ^ith the effect of a blast ; 
 which is an explosion of gunpowder, that is wedged 
 into a hole bored in the rock for the purpose : the 
 tremendous sound that it produces, Is truly apal- 
 ling ; it rolls along the subterranean recesses, long 
 and loud, like an overwhelming peal of thunder: 
 firm indeed must be the nerve that remains unsha- 
 ken by its awful reverberation, in so remote a situ- 
 ation within the bowels of a rocky mountain, where 
 the dislocated craggs are seen thrown into the ut-
 
 101 
 
 most disorder, by some terrible operation of nature. 
 This explosion is calculated, in a wonderful, degree 
 to awaken ideas, that are connected with the terrific 
 appearances of the wildly scattered rocks, so that on 
 returning from this Stygian gloom, we hail the first 
 faint glimpse of day light with lively interest ; 'tis 
 like the pale dawn of morning ; of a cool soothing 
 grey tone, that gently braces the relaxed nerves; 
 the true healing balm of Gilead without quackery. 
 Here the artist and the amateur are sure to stop, to 
 contemplate the magic effect ; he who beholds this 
 scene, must be inanimate indeed, if he does not feel 
 his soul enlarged by the power of its undefinable 
 qualities, and as it were transported beyond this 
 terrestrial sphere. 
 
 The wild grandeur of the stupendous scenes 
 that are met with in this cavern, far exceeds (in a 
 picteresque point of view) every other of the kind 
 in the Peak : yet it does not present that variety of 
 minerals, and beautiful crystalizations, which we see 
 in some others ; therefore if an artist should feel the 
 most delighted with this, the mineralogist may pre- 
 fer some other cavern : indeed the caves of Derby- 
 shire abound in variety, each presenting a character 
 so entirely different, that on visiting them, we 
 cannot easily compare one with another. 
 
 From Castleton, I struck ioto a foot-path that 
 leads over some fields to Lose Hill, which adjoins 
 Mam Tor. From these fields we have a fine view 
 of the Peak Cavern, and Castle ; the hills of Cave- 
 dale rise above the castle, although it is situated 
 upon so lofty a rock ; the dark rnouth of the cavern 
 
 being seen at the same time, forms a singular and 
 I 2
 
 102 
 
 romantic picture. On reaching the summit of Lose 
 Hill, we have an instantaneous prospect into Edale, 
 a most enchanting, and beautifully fertile vale, in- 
 terspersed with the hamlets of Grindsbooth, Barber 
 Booth, and Edale Chapel ; the little river Now (or 
 Knovvl) rapidly winds through its fertile meadows, 
 and the whole is surrounded by lofty mountains. 
 Sweetly sequestered spot ! where the eye enchanted 
 loves to roam. Delightful Arcadia ! where the philo- 
 sopher might love to dwell : may its mountain bar- 
 riers ever shut out vice from the peaceful inhabi- 
 tants, whilst celestial virtues shower upon them, their 
 heavenly influence. 
 
 This mountain-top forms a narrow ridge that 
 extends to Mam Tor, one side suddenly declines to 
 the valley of Castleton, whilst the other falls with 
 as sharp a declivity to Edale ; thus from one point, 
 we have a complete view of two delightful valleys, 
 that are environed by, 
 
 " Rocks rich in gems, and mountains big with mines." 
 Perceiving a storm to be gathering around, and be- 
 ing informed that lightning was sometimes seen to 
 rage below the eye, from the eminences about here, 
 I was induced to abide its fury, in the hope of 
 viewing an effect so singular ; this however did not 
 occur: yet the storm in other respects was truly 
 grand, and awfully sublime. At first large drops 
 of rain, thinly scattered, sparkled in a sunny ^leam 
 as they fell ; but soon after unfurling the constant 
 companion of my journeys, (an umbrella) it was 
 fair again. The leaden- coloured clouds still drag- 
 ged heavily along, until they were roused by the 
 screaming winds; when their dusky heads were
 
 10S 
 
 M'hirled along the brows of the mountains in rapid 
 succession. The lightning's broad but momentary 
 flash, the thunder's tremendous roar, rebounding 
 from hill to hill, failing into a deep and solemn rum- 
 ble, then returning upon the ear with dreadful 
 crash, and the torrents of intermingled hail and 
 rain that poured from the bursting clouds, followed 
 each other with an astonishing rapidity : the apalled 
 senses after a sudden shock, are succeeded by great 
 ideas, and that undennahle delight which ever re- 
 sults from a close observation of the mighty opera- 
 tions of nature. 
 
 " At first heard solemn o'er the verge of heaven, 
 The tempest growls ; but as it nearer comes, 
 And rolls its awful burden on the wind, 
 The lightning's flash, a larger curve and more 
 The noise astounds : till orer head a sheet 
 Of livid flame, discloses wide ; then shuts, 
 And opens wider ; shuts and opens still 
 Expansive, wrapping ether in .1 blnze. 
 Follows the loosen'd aggravated roar, 
 Enlarging, deepening, mingling ; peal on peal 
 Crush horrible, convulsing heaven and earth." 
 
 The storm continued only half an hour, when it 
 cleared away, and for a short time was seen raging 
 iu the distance, whilst near at hand, nature seemed 
 to be greatly refreshed by the rain, which had 
 spread a brilliant varnish on the lively preen of the 
 valleys. It is said, that a battle was fought here in 
 former times, and that the hostile armies were sta- 
 tioned on the hills called Win Hill, and Lose Hill ; 
 and that those names were derived from the result 
 of the contest. 
 
 What could have been the motive for war, in so
 
 104 
 
 remote a part of the island, at a period when the 
 number of inhabitants most likely were few, will be 
 difficult to determine ; was it for the possession of 
 these fertile vallies, that rapacious man, with head- 
 long fury, rushed to destroy his fellow-man ? Per- 
 haps an inoffensive race of happy shepherds, tended 
 their flocks in these Arcadian vales, and the lawless 
 rage of savage power, might ultimately overcome, 
 and reduce them to a state of bondage. How in- 
 scrutable are the ways of Providence ! we see 
 wicked tyrannic power, suffered to scourge the in- 
 nocent : but it is not for mortals to discern why it 
 is permitted : the wisdom is hidden from human 
 eyes : therefore, let not presumptuous man dare to 
 repine at the decrees of the All-wise, but, with re- 
 verential awe submit to divine will. 
 
 1 pursued the ridge of this hill to Mam Tor, 
 or (he shivering Mountain, which is composed of 
 shale and micaceous grit, that decomposes by the 
 action of the atmosphere, and then falls down the 
 rugged face of the Tor : sometimes in such large 
 quantities as to be distinctly heard at Castleton,. 
 which is at least a mile off. The foot of the moun- 
 tain is strewed with its ruins, for a considerable 
 distance : and large trees have been inhumed, by the 
 fall of immense masses, that now form small hills 
 near the parent rock : it therefore migl't not be 
 unaptly termed the Hen and Chicken Mountain. 
 
 Mam Tor is said to rise one thousand three 
 hundred feet above the valley of Castleton. A vast 
 rampart of earth and stones encircles the upper 
 part of the mountain, which is said to be a military 
 work of the Romans ; part of it is now destroyed
 
 105 
 
 by the falling away of that side which faces towards 
 Castleton. Within the lines of the encampment, 
 issues a very considerable spring; of fine water, 
 which runs down the hill into Edale ;* this must 
 have been an important acquisition to the Roman 
 soldiers. 
 
 The highest point of Mam Tor is occupied by a 
 barrow, which is similar to many others in the Peak, 
 having a small hollow on the top like a basin. 
 The views from this elevated station, are very 
 grand ; villages, fertile meadows, and winding 
 sfcreams ; rocks, and rugged mountains, present a 
 fine assemblage of material to gratify the eye of an 
 artist. The shifting; clouds as they pass, produce 
 many beautiful, though fugitive effects; to follow 
 the broad moving shadow with the eye, and to ob- 
 serve the varied effects produced by it, is very amu- 
 sing to the lover of Picturesque beauty. Yonder it 
 sails along the plain, and now throws a dark veil 
 over the village of Hope, and its tapered spire ; 
 there the castle is spread over with light, which ex- 
 tends in a broad mass upon the village of Castleton, 
 
 * This spring flows vary copiously in long continued dry 
 weather, although it is situated near the summit of the moun- 
 tain. It does not seem possible that rain, which falls upon 
 the mountain alone, could supply a constant flow of water of 
 such magnitude. Perhaps an unknown attraction may be the 
 principal cause of some springs in such lofty situations, and 
 water may be brought by its power from sources considerably 
 below the place where it issues : for, by the stratification of 
 the upper part of the mountain, it does not appear to have 
 any connection with other hills ; by means of which, the 
 spring could receive a supply from distant sources along any 
 channel communicating with it.
 
 106 
 
 and its low towered church, backed by the dark hills 
 of Cave dale. How in a few moments the effect is 
 changed ! The light to shade, the shade lo light ; 
 and still how beautiful! Tasteful nature, " ever 
 charming, ever new !" how delightful is the study 
 of thy fleeting beauties ! to snatch them as they 
 fly, and quickly to transcribe them to the canras, 
 requires the utmost skill of him who loves to study 
 thee, who knows that thy treasures areexhaustless, 
 who can feel an exquisite delight in thy calm se- 
 questered scenes, and admire thee in the midst of 
 thy awful terrors, 
 
 1 now descended to the new Manchester road, 
 which is brought this way from Castleton, in a very 
 circuitous direction, to avoid the more steep road 
 that leads through the Winnats. The point where it 
 joins the old road, is at least two miles and a half 
 from Castleton, but through the Winnats it is not 
 more than one mile and a half. 
 
 On the opposite side of the road to Mam Tor, 
 rises Traycliff,* the mountain wherein is the mine 
 from whence the amethystine fluor (which is called 
 by the miners, Blue John) is obtained. Want of 
 time prevented me from exploring this mine ; which 
 induces me to give Mr. Mawe's description of it, 
 
 * During a thunder storm which happened some years 
 ago, the lightning struck a rock on this mountain : a frag- 
 ment was broken off by it, which was supposed to weigh 
 more than a ton : fire was observed to run down the hill, 
 and suddenly to sink into it ; leaving a round hole where it 
 entered. May we not suppose, that mighty effects are pro- 
 duced in the mineral kingdom, by such operations of nature's 
 chemistry ?
 
 107 
 
 from his * Mineralogy of Derbyshire". It is well 
 known, that Mr. Mawe visited the mines and caves 
 of the Peak, for the purpose of mineralogieal re- 
 search ; and the observations of a scientific man, 
 are generally, very interesting 1 , especially when 
 connected with the complicated singularities of na- 
 ture: therefore, the account which I have chosen 
 to supply my own deficiency, will be allowed 
 greatly to overbalance that defect. 
 
 " The mountain" says Mr. Mawe, "appears 
 an assemblage of vast rocks of limestone, without 
 connection or regularity, and is full of openings 
 or caverns of immense depth, fissures, &c. In thig 
 mountain is the mine that produces the beautiful 
 compact fluor,* here called Blue John, which is 
 found in pipe veins of various dicections. The 
 fluor in various places, appears to have been formed 
 on the limestone ; for it frequently has that sub- 
 stance for a nucleus, around which it seems first 
 to have crystallized, till it had greatly increased by 
 accumulation. Frequently, however, the centre is 
 hollow." 
 
 " In various parts of the mine, in caves filled 
 with clay and loose adventitious matter, the fluor 
 appears in detached masses, bearing every appear- 
 ance, of having been broken from the limestone, on 
 which it seems to have been originally formed ; for 
 every piece, in one part or other, seems to have 
 adhered to something, and to have been broken off. 
 
 * Tbis substance acts as a speedy flux to metals, owing 
 to its peculiar acid, whence the name of fluor.
 
 108 
 
 These caverns are frequently beset with beautiful 
 calcarious stalactites, of a large size," 
 
 " It is impossible to account for the prodigious 
 variety, and singular disposition of the veins, and 
 sudden contrasts of the finest colours, which occur 
 in this substance. Some of the pieces of fluor are 
 a foot in thickness, and have four or five distinct 
 veins ; but such large pieces are very rare. In 
 general, they are only- about three or four inches 
 thick ; and some present one strong vein, while 
 others show many smaller. Such as display a geo- 
 graphical figure, like a coloured map, are most rare 
 and valuable. Some varieties, are much more loose 
 in their texture than others. The colouring matter, 
 has been generally thought to be iron, but I suspect 
 it to be asphalt, which may perhaps contain pyrites 
 in a decomposed state ; but there are many singular 
 varieties which have not undergone any analysis. 
 The fluoric acid is easily obtained, by pulverizing 
 the fluor, and putting it in a leaden retort, to which 
 add its weight of any of the mineral acids. Apply 
 a gentle heat, and the fluoric acid will appear as 
 gas, which may be caught in a vessel of the same 
 materials as the retort. Its peculiar property of 
 corroding glass, and siliceous substances is well 
 known." 
 
 "In the loose earth of the caverns, are found 
 rounded nodules of lead ore, sometimes called 
 potatoe ore. The rocks on the side of the road are 
 stupendous, and in many places perpendicular, 
 running in all directions, and forming immense ca- 
 verns. The mines of this mountain afi'ord the 
 greatest variety of mineralogical information of any
 
 109 
 
 1 have yet seen. The reins, and the frequent ob- 
 struction of their direction ; the dislocation of the 
 strata, and the heterogeneous substances found in 
 the immense caverns, present matter for great 
 study, and curious observation." 
 
 " The access into the mine of fluor is tolerably 
 easy, descending about sixty yards, down steps, 
 amid limestone. Proceeding about thirty yards 
 deeper, by an easy route, you arrive at a most 
 beautiful cavern, beset with delicate, white stalac- 
 tite, which, to the imagination assumes a variety of 
 figures. At a short distance further, you are led 
 into a cavern yet more grand, in Avhich some sta- 
 lactites, hanging perpendicularly from the roof of 
 the projecting rock, form a striking semicircle ; the 
 black walls of the mine, contrast with the snow- 
 white stalactites, and constitute a scene surpassing 
 description. Hence you are led into a variety of 
 interesting caverns, veins, &c. and the guide will 
 be ready to give every information to the curious 
 visitor, and will not delude him by the relation of 
 fabulous wonders." 
 
 Mr. Mawe, in the same work, describes the 
 different varieties of fluor that are met with in 
 Derbyshire. Indeed, considerable mineralogical in- 
 formation respecting the Peak, will be derived 
 from a perusal of that volume 
 
 At the foot of Mam Tor, is the celebrated 
 Odin Mine, which is supposed to have been worked 
 by the Saxons, from its being named after one of 
 their Deities. It has given employment to about 
 
 one hundred persons ; but it is now worked so 
 K
 
 110 
 
 near to the water, that the operations of mining 
 have, latterly, become very circumscribed. The 
 proprietors, however, are driving a tunnel or level 
 about a mile and a half in length, which will, 
 when completed, greatly relieve the work. This 
 mine runs under Mam Tor, and is more than a 
 mile in extent ; it is the only place that is known to 
 produce that singular substance the Elastic Bi- 
 tumen (or mineral cahoutchou). A very singular 
 variety of lead ore, called Slickenside, is found in 
 this mine. " This galena" observes Mr. Mawe, 
 presents a smooth surface, as if plated. Some- 
 times it forms the sides of cavities, and on being 
 pierced with the miner's tool, rends with violence, 
 and explodes with a crackling noise. The cause 
 of this phenomenon has not been fully explained. 
 I saw a man who was brought out of the mine, only 
 n few minutes after an explosion. He had impru- 
 dently pierced the sides of this substance, and was 
 much hurt by it, being violently cut, as if stabbed 
 about the neck and other parts of his body with a 
 chisel, which rendered him unable to return to his 
 work again for fourteen days." 
 
 The mountains on one side of the vale of 
 Castleton, are composed of limestone, containing 
 chert (said to be transition) alternating 1 with beds 
 of trap of different colours. Chert is used in the 
 potteries in great quantities. The limestone con- 
 tains a variety of fossil shells, corrols, &c. The 
 opposite side is a range of gritstone mountains, 
 which, in some parts are stratified with shale' 
 forming part of a vast track of gritstone country,
 
 Ill 
 
 extending northward, into the Woodlands, and in 
 a southern direction nearly to the town of Derby. 
 The river Denvent flows through this gritstone 
 district. It rises on the Yorkshire border, at the 
 northern extremity of the county of Derby ; making 
 only one deviation, which happens near Matlock, 
 where it leaves the grit, and rolls over a limestone 
 channel for about the distance of two miles and a 
 half; when, a little below Cromford Bridge, it 
 ng-aih meets with the gritstone. Beyond Derby it 
 fiowS through a flat country, and falls into the 
 Trent. 
 
 EXCURSION 
 
 FROM CASTLETON, TO BAGSHAW'3 CAVERN AT BRAD- 
 WELL ; EYAM ; MIDDLETON DALE; STOKE HALL; 
 HATHERSAGE; BROUGH; AND HOPE. 
 
 A.BOUT two miles from Castleton is Brad well, 
 a considerable hamlet : a brook runs through the 
 lower part of it. In the higher part to the right is 
 Bagshaw's Cavern, which is a very great curiosity, 
 and for beauty ; it far transcends every other subter- 
 rannean recess I have visited ; nor can I think it 
 possible, that any cavern in the vvorld can be more 
 beautiful ; but the difficulties attendant upon explor- 
 ing it, are so great as to prevent many from attempt- 
 ing it ; however the guide, (an intelligent miner na- 
 med Bradwell,) assured me that ladies sometimes 
 venture in, and cheerfully surmount all the difficulties. 
 The most unpleasant part arises from being obliged 
 to proceed sometimes on all-fours : yet, on arriving
 
 112 
 
 at the different caverns, their dazzling splendour, 
 dispels every idea of fatigue. 
 
 Being provided with a miner's dress, we first 
 descend a dungeon-looking hole, by 120 steps, we 
 then proceed, through a long passage, where beauti- 
 tiful crystallizations, command our admiration, and 
 most agreeably beguile the time, until we arrive at 
 Paradise Grotto. The uncommon beauty of this 
 cavern, has a wonderful effect on the imagination, 
 and we feel as if we were conveyed by some power- 
 ful and invisible agency, into the Hall of Faries : it 
 is superbly decorated with brilliant sparry stalactites, 
 that hang like icicles from the roof : the sides are 
 covered with regular arrangements of columns, gro- 
 tesque masses and organ- work, so that this cave pre- 
 sents an entire mass of crystallizations that cover its 
 roof, its sides, and its floor. About thirty yards 
 further is an intermitting spring. We now ascend a 
 gallery, to the left of which, is a beautiful natural 
 arrangement of regular columns formed by the spar- 
 ry icicles, and then enter Calypso's Cave, which is 
 truly, beautiful, and very grotesque, exhibiting .-.'.* a 
 most natural and lively resemblance of Winter, with 
 its various scenery of hoar-frost, snow, ice aud 
 icicles;" and, like Paradise Grotto, is completely 
 covered with brilliant crystalizations. Another branch 
 of this cavern extends very far, and displays some 
 extraordinary rock scenery, with a long range of 
 sparry icicles hanging from the roof: they are of 
 rarious lengihs and thickness ; some are about three 
 feet long and no thicker than a tobacco-pipe, others 
 are much shorter and about two inches in thickness ; 
 in short their size vary much, and at the end of each
 
 113 
 
 hangs a drop of water sparkling like brilliant dia- 
 monds. Soon after entering this branch we come to 
 a rude dismal cave, wherein, is the Dungeon, which 
 is about thirty feet in depth ; down which the$|uide 
 threw a great stone, that fell with an astounding 
 noise. 
 
 Having described the leading beauties of this 
 extensive and most beautiful cavern, it may not be 
 amiss now, to particularize some of the more sub- 
 ordinate parts, that appeared to me, and a friend 
 who accompanied me, as either singular or very 
 curious, and which induced us to give names to 
 several parts of this subterranean retreat. The 
 roof, in one part, is decorated with very small, 
 white, curling stalactites, that appear like worms 
 writhing out of it : this we named the Chamber 
 of Worms. Some extraordinary piles of enormous 
 stones, we called the Cyclopean Tombs. The floor 
 in another part, (which is stalagmite,) is strewed 
 over with stalactites, that have fallen from the roof 
 and are fastened to it by the drippings of water, 
 depositing its calcarious particles upon them, by 
 which means they become united. These stalac- 
 tites having the appearance of bones scattered 
 about, induced us to call this the Charnel-House. 
 In another part, small stalactites on the sides, and 
 roof of the cavern are curved like hooks in all 
 directions : gome long stalactites depending from 
 the roof, have also hooks projecting from them, that 
 turn upward : this we named the Hamated Cave. 
 It may be difficult to account for these singular 
 
 forms, that are so contrary to the general idea of 
 K 2
 
 114 
 
 the formation of stalactites, and which naturally 
 give rise to this question, how has the water thus 
 overcome the power of gravity ? The water that 
 runs through the cavern, we observed, brought with 
 it a quantity of siliceous sand, although the district 
 in the direction of it, is limestone for several miles : 
 stones that lie in this water, are coated over with 
 a black glossy substance, which makes them un- 
 commonly smooth. Amongst the rocky fragments 
 we discovered a large rocking- stone, to which, a 
 very considerable vibratory motion, may be given, 
 by the pressure of a single finger ; may we not 
 infer from this circumstance, that many large 
 rocking stones, on the surface have been produced 
 by natural causes, as well as this subterranean one ? 
 We explored this cavern a little beyond the Cyclo- 
 pean Tombs ; how much farther it extended the 
 guide could not tell, for no one had yet traced its 
 whole extent : he however observed, that nothing 
 remarkable had hitherto been discovered beyond 
 this place ; we therefore named those hidden reces- 
 ses the Interminable Vaults. 
 
 Several mines will be observed here, they 
 chiefly yield calamine. The road to Eyam, passes 
 through Brad well Dale, Avhich we enter at the end 
 of the village, where a large stream of water will 
 be seen, rushing from underneath a rock. Although 
 this dale is rocky, it does not present any remark- 
 able views. After pursuing an indifferent road for 
 a few miles, passing through Windmill, 1 came to 
 Foolow, from whence by an excellent road, I soon 
 arrived at Eyam ; distant about seven miles from 
 Castleton. This ancient village is surrounded by
 
 115 
 
 lofty hills, that abound with lead mines. The 
 bleak mountains of the East Moor, crested with 
 gritstone rocks, and interspersed with patches of 
 dark heath, have a wild and sterile appearance, 
 but their lower declivities soften into fertile inclo- 
 sures. In the church-yard stands a very curious 
 and ancient stone cross, richly sculptured on every 
 side, with figures, runic knots, and scrolls. This 
 very interesting relique of times that have long 
 passed away, has suffered an irreparable loss 
 (through some very culpable neglect) by the des- 
 truction of a stone that formed the upper part of 
 the shaft. 
 
 When that dreadful scourge of the human race 
 (the Plague) raged in London, and spread dismay 
 through the land ; it was communicated to this vil- 
 lage by means of a box of clothes which was received 
 from thence by a tailor; and such was its virulence 
 that two thirds of the inhabitants were swept off by 
 it : however by the judicious exertions and pious ex- 
 ample of the Rev. Win. Mompesson, Rector of Eyam, 
 the fatal distemper, was prevented from spreading 
 beyond the village. In this most excellent man we see 
 the mighty influence of goodness ; it accomplished 
 what an army could not have enforced : for in such a 
 mountainous country, the people might have eluded the 
 strictest watch ; and by flying from the devoted place, 
 have widely spread, the awful disease : he, a good 
 shepherd, abided (with his flock) the fury of the pes- 
 tilence, administering spiritual and temporal balm to 
 their afflictions; and although he himself sickened yet 
 he was spared ; but alas ! had to mourn the loss of 
 his beloved wife : she fell a victim to the pestilence j
 
 116 
 
 her tomb will be seen in the church-yard, having 
 the fatal month of August, 1666, inscribed upon it 
 the disorder then raged with great violence. On the 
 common, at about a quarter of a mile from the village, 
 are the Riley Gravestones, which record the extinction 
 of nearly a whole family of the name of Hancock, 
 consisting of eight persons ; seven of whom died 
 (within the space of seven days) in the month of Au- 
 gust, 1666, Three of them expired in one day : 
 they resided at an adjacent house called Riley house, 
 from which circumstance, originated the appellation of 
 Riley Gravestones. They consist of six head-stones 
 and one Altar Tomb : their inscriptions which are 
 still legible, convey in a forcible manner, ideas of the 
 dreadful power of the pestilence. A visit to this 
 hallowed though now cultivated spot (which certainly 
 ought to have been held more sacred) cannot fail to 
 present to the reflecting mind; melancholy pictures 
 of desolating effects, produced by the contagion ; 
 when hasty and promiscuous graves received de- 
 parted victims immediately on their ceasing to breathe, 
 and cautious fear, closed them up without funeral 
 rites. Another spot called the Delve is rendered ex- 
 tremely interesting from the following circumstance. 
 The worthy Mompesson, judging it better to assemble 
 his desponding congregration in the open air, rather 
 than in the church, during the hot months ; when the 
 disease was peculiarly malignant; he here, adminis- 
 tered spiritual comfort to their woes, and delivered 
 his discourses from an elevated arched rock, which is 
 distinguished by the appellation of Cucklet Church. 
 The opposite declivity of this lovely dell, makes 
 gentle sweep, which rendered it well adapted for the
 
 117 
 
 purpose of devotion, during so calamitous a period. 
 
 The Delve, although very picturesque, is 
 rather too profusely decorated with trees ; which 
 prevent a good view from being obtained, of Cucklet 
 Church. This dell leads into Middleton Dale, 
 which on one side consists of an extensive range of 
 diversified crags, precipitous and impending ; hav- 
 ing a bold and imposing aspect; the other side is, 
 however* rather tame. A busy little stream, and 
 a frequented turnpike road run through the dale. 
 Numerous lime-kilns and a smelting furnace, with 
 vast columns of smoke issuing from them, give a 
 singular character to the place ; whilst the many 
 workmen that are employed, animate the scene. 
 One assemblage of the rocks, appearing like round 
 towers and turrets, is called the Castle Rock; 
 another, the High Tor ; and one, near the entrance 
 of the village, has the affecting appellation of the 
 Lover's Leap ; where a love-lorn female, threw 
 herself from a frightful precipice ; rher cloaths 
 were caught by several bushes that start from the 
 rock, which checked her fall, and she miraculously 
 escaped, with a few slight scratches and bruises : 
 this interposition of Providence in preserving her 
 life, cured her love-fit ; she lived many years, 
 very respectably, and died unmarried. 
 
 The village of Stoney Middleton, affords 
 many pleasing groups of cottages, for sketching ; 
 the houses being clustered upon the hills in a very 
 curious manner. Near to the Moon Inn, at the 
 lower end of the village, stands a decent-looking 
 church ; but in the church-yard, indecently stands 
 a beautiful gothic font : perhaps it was turned out
 
 118 
 
 by some church- war den, whose name is recorded 
 as a beautifier of the church. 
 
 1 now pursued the charming vale of the Der- 
 went, passed by Stoke Hall, (the delightful resi- 
 dence of Robert Arkwright, Esqr.) to Hathersage ; 
 a village pleasantly situated on the declivity of a 
 loft}' hill, having a handsome spire- church. In the 
 church-yard, the grave of Little John, the com- 
 panion of Robin Hood, is seen, a stone is placed 
 at the head, and another at the foot of the grave : 
 they are nearly four yards asunder. This grave was 
 opened some years ago, when a thigh-bone was dis- 
 covered, that measured thirty inches in length. It is 
 also said, that the body of Mr. Benjamin Ashton, 
 who was buried, on the 29th of December, 1725, was 
 found on the 31st. of May, 1781, to be congealed 
 as hard as flint. Following this rich vale a little 
 further, we cross the Derwent at a bridge, and 
 then follow the little river Now to Brough, where 
 many Roman antiquities have been found. I now 
 passed on to the village of Hope; the church is 
 disgraced with a clumsy spire, but more so, by a 
 number of indecent, grotesque spouts. About a 
 mile and a half further, completed ray return to 
 Castleton. 
 
 EXCURSION 
 
 FROM DUXTON TO CHELMERTON ', NEWHAVEN ; AR- 
 
 BORLOW ; HARTINGTON; BERRISFORD DALE; AND 
 DOVE DALE. 
 
 is about five miles from Bux-
 
 119 
 
 ton. Two large Barrows occupy the summit of a 
 lofty hill, that rises immediately above the village. 
 Many springs issue from the hill, which sink into 
 the earth again, after running a few yards. Ahout 
 two miles to the left of Newhaven, is a very 
 interesting druidical remain, consisting of a circle, 
 formed by more than thirty, rude stones, which are 
 surrounded by a deep ditch and vallum, having two 
 entrances; at one of which is a large barrow, and 
 another still larger (called End Low) is situated in 
 an adjacent field. To the right of Newhaven is 
 Hartington, and half a mil further is Berrisford- 
 dale, a beautiful little dell through which the river 
 Dove rapidly glides : about four miles farther it 
 reaches the matchless Dove-dale, which is out of the 
 district prescribed for this Volume ; however, I take 
 this opportunity to announce a Work in Quarto en- 
 titled the Dove ; which will embrace all the principal 
 scenes on that interesting river from its scourse ; for 
 which 1 have already made a number of sketches, 
 and intend to publish as early as possible. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
 Wilkinson, Printer, Hidgefield, 
 Manchester.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Page. 
 Advertisement - . - - - - -3 
 
 BUXTOX Appearance of the Country round Buxton, 
 and of its Buildings; general Observations on the 
 Improvements made by the late and the present Duke 
 of Devonshire; Antiquity; the Crescent; St. Ann's 
 JVM; Arm's Cliff; the Hall; the Baths ; the Square; 
 the Stables and Circus; New Church; Theatre and 
 Amusements ____.__5 
 
 Excursion to Poole's Hole; Grinlow, fits singular ap- 
 pearance and curious Huts;) Diamond Hill ; Axe 
 Edge ; Mountain Stream ; Boggy Summit of Thatch- 
 marsh; River Goit and Goit Clough 22 
 
 Excursion to Chatsworth ; by the Lover's Leap in Ash- 
 wood Dale ; Tadding ton ; Taddington Dale ; Lower 
 part of Monsal Dale; the Marble Mills; Ash ford; and 
 Edensor ; return by Hassop ; Wardlow ; JVardlow 
 Dale; Tideswell; Wheston; TideswellDale ; Miller's 
 Dale ; Monsal Dale and Mill Hill - - - 31 
 
 Excursion to Chee Tor _____ 60 
 
 Excursion to Water Swallows; Marvel Stones; and 
 the Ebbing and Flowing Well ... 63 
 
 Excursion from Buxton to Dove-Holes, Ebbing and 
 Flmcing Well; Eldon Hole; Speedu-ell Mine; and 
 Castleton 66 
 
 CASTLETON TJte Church ; Castle , Peak Cavern , 
 Cave Dale; Lose Hill; Edale; Traycliffe. , Blue 
 John Mine; Mam Tor, and the Odin Mine - 88 
 
 Excursion from Castleton to Bagshaw's Cavern, fit 
 Bradwell ; Eyam ; Middleton Dale -, Stoke Hall; Ha- 
 thersage ; Brough and Hope - - - - 111 
 
 Excursion from Buxton to Chelmerton ; New haven ; 
 Arborlow ; Hartington ; Berrisford Dale, and Dove 
 Dale 118
 
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