3 3tl 131 he haturalisfe WOLOGY T 11 E NATURALISTS GUIDK IN COLLECTING AND PRESERVING OBJECTS OF NATURAL HISTORY, A COMPLETE CATALOGUE OF THE BIRDS OF EASTKRX MASSACHUSETTS. BY o. J MAYNAKD. V WITH ILLUSTRATIONS P>Y E. L. \VKKKS SALEM : THE NATURALISTS' AGENCY. BOSTON : ESTES & LAURIAT. 1877. Entered according to Act ot Congress, In they^ar 1870, by K I K L l>s, use oo I>. & ft) . . in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts INTRODUCTION. THE great need of a good illustrated work to guide young naturalists in collecting and preserving objects of natural history has induced me to prepare the present Manual. In this attempt I hope I have been in some degree successful. I have spared no pains to bring to- gether, in a comprehensive form, the results of many years of experience in collecting and preserving objects of natu- ral history, both for private cabinets and for scientific museums. No popular work of this kind has before been published in America. Throughout the present work I have endeav- ored to encourage the young to engage in the ennobling study of Natural History, and to join the band of young naturalists so rapidly increasing in our land. I trust the reader will not by any means keep the teach- ings of this book secret, as some taxidermists are wont to counsel, but spread it broadcast among those who would profit by the information I have herein attempted to con- vey. It is intended for the NATURALIST, whoever and wherever he may be ; and as it, comes from a colaborer in the common field, it will, perhaps, be well received. 3427C8 IV INTRODUCTION. All of Part First is original. In preparing objects of natural history I have in a great degree invented methods of my own, and have not given in this work a single one that I have not tested and proved equal to* all oth- ers, if not superior. To avoid confusion, I have given only the method which experience has taught me to l;e the best. In this connection my thanks are due to Mr. E. L. Weeks, whose excellent illustrations will be found to add greatly to the value of the work. In Part Second I have thought proper to add a cata- logue of the birds of Eastern Massachusetts, with notes, as tending to enable the collector to obtain the rarer spe- cies more readily, by specifying the localities and peculiar .haunts in which they have been found by others. The critical notes may, perhaps, be perused with interest by the more experienced ornithologist. CONTENTS. PART I. CHAPTER I. COLLECTING AND PRESERVING BIRDS. SECT. PAGB I. HOW TO COLLECT 3 II. How TO PREPARE SPECIMENS. INSTRUMENTS, MATERIALS, ETC. 10 III. MEASURING, SKINNING, AND PRESERVING BIRDS . . .18 MEASURING 18 SKINNING 22 DETERMINING THE SEX 27 CONTENTS OF STOMACH, ETC. 31 EXCEPTIONS TO THE USUAL METHOD OF SKINNING . 31 TAP.LE OF MEASUREMENTS 33 IV. MOUNTING SPECIMENS 34 MOUNTING FRESH BIRDS 34 MOUNTING DRIED SKINS 40 MOUNTING BIRDS WITH THE WINGS EXTENDED . . .41 CHAPTER II. COLLECTING AND PRESERVING MAMMALS. SSCT. I. COLLECTING ........... 43 II. MEASURING MAMMALS 45 SKINNING 40 METHOD OF PREPARING A BOOK FOR MEASURING MAMMALS 47 TAIJLE OF MEASUREMENTS 47 III. MOUNTING MAMMALS 50 CHAPTER III. COLLECTING AND PRESERVING INSECTS FOR THE CABINET. BEETLES, OR COLEOPTERA 55 BUGS, OR HEMIPTERA 57 GRASSHOPPERS, CRICKETS, ETC., OR ORTHOPTERA . . . .68 VI CONTENTS. MoTHS AND BUTTERFLIES, OK LllPIDOFTKXA .... 58 DhAGON FLIES, ETC., OK NEUKOPTERA .60 BEE.-, WASPS, ETC., ou HYMENOPTERA 61 FLIES, MosgurroEs, ETC., OK DIPTERA . ... 61 CHAPTER IV. COLLECTING AND PRESERVING FISHES AND REPTILES. SiCT. I. FISHES . . 63 II. REPTILES 64 CHAPTER V. MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS. SECT. 1. CRUSTACEA . .69 COLLECTING MOLLUSKS 69 PRESERVING SHELLS 70 WORMS, ANIMAL PARASITES, JELLY-FISHES . . . 71 CORALS, SEA-ANEMONES, HYDROIDS AND BRYO/OA, STAR- FISHES, SEA-URCHINS, HOLOTIIURIAS, OR SEA-CUCUMBERS, SPONGES AND SEA-WEEDS 72 II. PREPARING SKELETONS 73 MOUNTING SKELETONS 73 CHAPTER VI. COLLKCTIWO AND PRESERVING EGGS ...... 76 METHOD OF PREPARING A BOOK FOR RECORDING THE MEASURE- MENTS OF EGGS 78 PART II. CATALOGUE OF THE BIRDS OF EASTERN MASSACHUSETTS . . 81 INTRODUCTION 83 APPENDIX , ... 161 LNDEX . 169 LIST AND EXPLANATION OF PLATES. FRONTISPIECE. Centronix Bairdii, Baird. Baird's Sparrow, taken at Ipswich, Mass. PLATE I.* INSTRUMENTS used in preparing birds, etc., and for blowing eggs. Fig. 1, Common Pliers; Fig. 2, Cutting Pliers ; Fig. 3, Tweezers ; Fig. 4, Scalpel ; Figs. 5 and 6, Egg-drills ; Fig. 7, Blow-pipe ; Fig. 8, Hook for removing embryos from eggs. PLATE II. WINGS, showing the positions of the different feathers, as follows : Fig. \. Wing of a Red tailed Hawk (Buteo borealts, Vieill.). a indicates the primaries, or quills; b, secondaries; c, tertiaries; d, scapularies ; g, greater wing-coverts ; f, lesser wing-coverts ; e, spuri- ous wing, or quills. Fig 2. Winy of a Coot , or Mud lien (Fulica Americana, Gmelin). a indicates tlie primaries, or quills ; b, secondaries ; c, tertiaries ; d, scapularies ; e, spurious wing, or quills. The tertiaries and scapularies arc elongated in most of the aquatic birds, and in some of the Waders. They are a /ways prominent, if not elongated, on long-winged birds, such as the Eagles, Hawks, Owls, Vultures, etc. ; while they are only rudimentary on short-winged birds, such as the Thrushes, Warblers, Sparrows, etc. PLATE III. HEAD OF THE BALD EAGLE (Baluehu teucocephafus, Savi 1> 1 yellow glands ; 2, ovary; 3, lungs; 4, ovi- duct. PLATE VII. OUTLINE OF GROUSE, showini: the po-ition of the different parts, as follows : a, the hack ; b, rump ; c, tipper tail- coverts; d, under tail-coverts ; e, vent; f, tibia; g, tarsi; h, breast; i, side; j, neck ; k, hind neck; I, abdomen ; m, feet ; n, throat. PLATE VIII. ILLUSTRATES MOUNTING BIRDS. Figs. 1, 2. Arti- ficial body ; a, bone of leg; h, wire bent ; c, wire clenched ; f, h, t-i'l win*. Fig. 3. Mounted bird ; a, perpendicular line, showing the position of the head compared with the feet and h-tse of the stand ; b, b, wires for retaining the upper part of the wing in position ; c, c. wires for retaining the lower part of the wing in position ; e, e, wires for the tail ; d, showing the tail-feathers plaited ; f, stand. Fig. 4 Stand for mounting birds with the wings extended ; h, b, parallel wires ; c, wires bent ; a, block of wood for the bottom of ibe stand, Fig. 5. Head of Cedar-Bird, to illustrate th<> elevaiincr of the crest i g, cotton on the pin ; b, feathers of the crest in position on tlie cotton. PLATE IX. ILLUSTRATES MOUNTING MAMMALS Fi<). 1. A, plank for supporting iron rods; 8, iron rod for supporting head ; 14, cap, nut, and screw for fastening the end of tbe rod in the skull; 7, 7, 7, 7, iron rods to support the body ; 5, G", 5, 6, caps, <'te. for fastening the upper ends of the rods to the plank ; 17, 17, 1 ". 17. cans, et<-. for fastening the lower part of the rods to the stand (ID) ; 15, \\i e for supporting the tail; 16, 16,16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16, aiti.icial seed.. us of LIST OF PLATES. ix hemp, prass, or plaster used as a substitute for the natural body. Fig. 2. A, nut ; B, cap ; C, thread. PLATE X. SKELETON OF A GROUSE, OR PRAIRIE HEN (Cupi- (lon/i and 10, also some very fine copper wire; common thread, coarse and fine, also some very fine, soft thread from the cotton-factories, this is wound on what are called " bobbins " ; it is used in the manufacture of cloth, cotton tow or hemp, and fine grass ; for the latter the long tough kind that grows in the woods is the best. * All the instruments and the wire may be procured at the hardware stores in the cities or larger towns. MATERIALS, ETC. 11 Fig. 7 Fig. 4 Plate I. 12 THE NATURALIST'S GUIDE. Arsenic is the best substance that can be used in preserv- ing skins, and the only one necessary. Other preparations are no better, and often much worse. Strange as it may ap- pear to some, I would say avoid especially all the so-called arsenical soaps; they are at best but filthy preparations ; beside, it is, a fact to which 1 can bear painful testimony, that they are especially when applied to a greasy skin poisonous in the extreme. I have been so badly poisoned, while working upon the skins of some fat water-birds that had been preserved with arsenical soap, as to be made seriously ill, the poison having worked into the system through some small wounds or scratches on my hands. Had pure arsenic been used in preparing the skins the effect would not have been as bad, although grease and arsenic are generally a blood poison in some degree ; but when combined with " soap," the effect at least, as far as my experience goes is much more injurious. Arsenic alone will sometimes poison slightly the wound with which it comes in contact, but no more than com- mon salt. There will be a slight festering and nothing more ; but, on the contrary, when combined with fat, a poison is generated that must be carefully guarded against. It sometimes works under the nails of the fingers and thumbs, while one is at work skinning (especially if the birds are fat). Rubber cots should be put upon the fingers or thumbs the instant the slightest wound is detected, whereby much pain may be avoided at a small cost. The cots alluded to can be procured of almost any druggist for ten ceit^s e$ch. Arsenic* however, cannot be used with too #reat care, as it is a deadly poison. In no case should it be left in the way of children. I have a drawer, wide, long, and shallow, in the bench at which \ work upon birds, wlwre my arsenic is kept safely, and it .is always accessible. But there is probably not so much danger attending the use , ETC. 13 of pure drv arsenic as people- generally suppose. I have" been told repeatedly, by competent physicians, that the small quantity taken, either by inhalation while using it; or by numerous other accidental ways, would be beneficial; rather than injurious; but be that as it may, 1 have used dry arsenic constantly for ten years, and have not yet, 1 think, experienced any injurious effects from it. It must be remembered that 1 have, of course, used it carefully. \\hen used with care, in the ordinary manner, it is uni doiihtedly the safest and the best material that can be used in preparing skins for the cabinet. 1 have never yet had a skin decay, or attacked by moths, that was well pre- served by the use of arsenic. Arsenic is very cheap, vary- ing from five to ten cents per pound by the wholesale, and retailed at twenty-five cents by druggists, but when bought by the ounce the price is enormous. There is, however, another poison to which one is exposed while skinning animals, which cannot be too carefully guarded against, for it is much more injurious in its effects than fat ard arsenic, I speak of the animal poison that results from the first stage of decomposition. If on at warm day one skins birds from which an offensive odor arises, and a peculiar livid or purplish appearance of the skin upon the abdomen is seen, and the intestines are distended with an extremely poisonous gas, which is the source of the offensive; sickening odor, there is danger of be- ing poisoned. When this gas is inhaled, or penetrates th6 skin through the pores (which are generally open on a warm day), a powerful and highly dangerous poison is apt to be the result. In a few days numerous pimples, which are exceedingly painful, appear upon the skin of the face and other partfc of the person, and upon those parts where there is a chaf- ing or rubbing become large and deep sores. There is h general languor, and, if badly poisoned; complete proslratibfe 14 THE NATURALIST'S GUIDE. results; the slightest scratch upon the skin becomes a fes- tering sore. Once poisoned in this manner (and I speak from experience), one is never afterwards able to skin any animal that has become in the least putrid, without ex- periencing some of the symptoms above described. Even birds that you handled before with impunity, you cannot now skin without great care. The best remedy in this case is, as the Hibernian would say, not to get poisoned, to avoid skinning all birds that exhibit the slightest signs of putrescence ; this is especially to be guarded against in warm weather, and in hot cli- mates, where I have seen a single hour's work upon putrid birds nearly provo fatal to the careless individual. If you get poisoned, bathe the parts frequently in cold water ; and if chafed, sprinkle the parts, after bathing, with wheat flour. These remedies, if persisted in, will effect a cure, if not too bad ; then, medical advice should be pro- cured without delay. It is just as easy to skin fresh birds as putrid ones, and much pleasanter, and in this way the evil will be avoided. If it is necessary to skin a putrid bird, as in the case of a rare specimen, a good bath of the hands and face in clear, cold water will entirely prevent the poison from taking effect, provided the skinning is not protracted too long. But generally, if the bird is putrid, I would advise the collector to throw it away, and obtain others that are safer to skin. If birds and mammals are injected, by means of a small glass syringe, with a small quantity of carbolic acid at the mouth and vent, it will prevent decomposition from taking place immediately. After injecting, the mouth and vent should be plugged to prevent the acid from staining the feathers. Birds injected in this way for three successive days will continue fresh for a long time, and, if kept in a dry place, will harden completely without decomposing. MATERIALS, ETC. 15 They may afterwards be skinned, as will be described here- after. Impure carbolic acid will answer as well as the refined, and it is much cheaper. The cust of this acid is trifling, and it will often prove beneficial in preserving birds in warm weather when they cannot be skinned immediately. But I would not advise its use in preserving birds when it can possibly be avoided, as it dulls the plumage, and is offensive in its odor in con- nection with the juices of the birds while they are being skinned. It is, perhaps, needless to add that this acid is a dangerous internal poison; it also burns the skin badly when allowed to come in contact with it, but all injurious effects may be removed by applying oil to the spot. As a collector walks much, he must have something on his feet that is easy and at the same time serviceable. I have found that in stony countries like New England the best things arc canvas shoes that lace up in front, tightly about the ankles and over the instep, to prevent slipping up and down, which is the worst possible thing that could happen while on a long tramp ; the soles should be broad, so that the toes may have room enough without crow-ling. With such shoes I have found th it I coul.l walk farther than with anything else, and be less wearied in the end. If the feet are wet from walking in water, with canvas shoes on them they will soon dry, as the water will all run out upon walking a short time on dry ground. Anything that is water-proof will be much too heavy to travel in, besides being injurious to the feet. In sandy localities, or on marshes, or in winter when the snow covers the jrround, Indian moccasons are the easiest and best things that can possibly be worn ; but in stony places they are not of sufficient thickness to protect the feet from receiving injury from the hard surface,' other- wise they are exceedingly easy. They are not water-proof, 16 THE NATURALIST'S GUIDE. BO that unless the snow is frozen in winter they are of no use. These mocctisons win be procured almost anywhere in Maine and New Hampshire, and sometimes in Boston. They are manufactured mostly in Canada. For clothes, perhaps the best that can be worn in summer is a suit of fine canvas of some dark color, to correspond with the foliage; in winter, white, to correspond with the snow; in both cases the wearer is less conspicuous, and can ap- proach his game much more readily. This cloth will not wear out or tear easily, and is every way fitted for travel- ling in the woods. 1 would next call attention to making stands on which to put birds after they have been mounted, as one of the necessities of the cabinet. Simple stands in the form of the letter T (Plate VIII. Fig. 3, f) are generally wanted. Any carpenter can make them. Different sizes will 1.6 needed, from one with the standard two inches high with a cross-piece one inch long, to a foot standard \\ ith a six-incli cross-piece, with bottoms to match. If made of pine, these stands may be painted white, of a very pure unchanging color, in the following manner. Buy white zinc at thirty cents per pound, and nice frozen glue at from twenty -five to thirty cents per pound ; dissolve the glue thoroughly in hot water, then strain ; to a pint and a half of water use a quarter of a pound of glue, to this add one pound of zinc, stir well, with the vessel that contains it in boiling water, then, with a brush, apply to the stands ; put on two coats. If the paint has a yellowish cast, put in a few drops of bluing ; it will change it at once. Thus you will find that you have a nice white coat of paint that will remain unchanged longer than oil colors. Any other color can be used, if preferred, in the same manner. "Fancy stands are made in the following way. For mossy stands, select a wooden bottom of suitable shape and size, - those with the edges bevelled are generally used, and MATERIALS, ETC. 17 with the pliers force a piece of wire into it in the centre, then bend the wire in imitation of a branch or smill tree, then wind it with hemp to give it the required shape ; additional wires may be fastened on to represent the smaller twigs. The whole is now to be covered with a coating of glue, and sprinkled with pulverized moss, or small pieces of moss are placed upon it smoothly. If the work is per- formed neatly, a perfect imitation of a little tree will be the result, upon which the bird is placed. If artificial leaves are to be used, they may be placed upon the twigs with glue. If, instead of a wire, a twig bent in the required form can be procured, and fastened to the bottom with wire, it may be covered with moss without winding with hemp. The fancy stands seen with dealers in birds are generally made of a substance called papier-mache, that is, manu- factured of paper pulp and glue as follows : Tear paper in small pieces and place it in water, let it stand over- night. Then, as it will be entirely soaked, reduce it to a perfect pulp, either by forcing it through a sieve or by stirring it. When reduced to a pulp, drain the water away. Dissolve a quarter of a pound of glue in a pint of water ; mix with this a pint of pulp, heat it, and stir it well ; then it is ready for use. Prepare a stand as de- scribed. Mould the pulp upon it in any shape to suit The fancy. It should have the consistency of putty, in order to work well. If it is too thin, put in more of the pulp . if too dry, more water. With this substance you can imitate almost anything in the shape of miniature trees, with hollows, knots, crooked limbs, etc. By drawing over the whole, when finished, a comb, the bark of a tree can be imitated exactly. When perfectly dry, the limbs of the tree can be painted brown in the manner described. The bottom of the stand is 18 THE NATURALISTS GUIDE. painted green, and sprinkled with a substance resembling green sand, called " sinolt," which may be procured at the painter's ; over this is sometimes sprinkled thin glass, broken tine, which is called " frosting," and is also used by painters. Rocks can be imitated well with papier-mache. If stud- ded with small pieces of quartz the effect is heightened ; they then may be painted in imitation of granite, sand- stone, etc. The sandstone is easily imitated by sprinkling on sand before the pulp is dry. There are many other things that may be imitated with this wonderful substance, but, having given the preceding hints, I leave the reader to experiment at his leisure upon them. For the scientific cabinet I would advise the use of the plain white stands as being much neater. The others are only fit for ornament. One other thing is necessary. Take a thin board, and at intervals of two inches tack transversely strips of wood (Plate IV. Fig. 1); then cut a strip of paper as wide as the board, and with glue make it adhere at the top of the strips and at the middle of the intervening space, so as to form a corrugated appearance (Fig. 2). These are used in drying skins of birds. Each board should have about twelve such spaces, varying in width from two to four inches, the boards varying in width from four inches to one foot. These Ixmrds, with careful use, will last a long time: SECTION III. Measuring, Skinning, and Preserving Birds. For measuring, a pair of dividers, or compasses, a steel rule, divided into hundredths of an inch, and a longer rule, divided into inches and half-inches, will be wanted. To measure the bird, proceed as follows : Place the bird upon its back upon the longer rule, with the end of the tail at the end of the rule; the neck is stretched at full length, without straining ; the bill must be pointed with THE ART OF PRESERVING BIRDS. ly g a e Plate II. 20 THE NATURALIST'S GUIDE. the rule. Record the number of inches upon a strip of paper ; if there is a fractional part of an inch, measure it with the dividers, and find how many hundredths it con- tains upon the smaller rule, and record it. This is "the length of the bird." Stretch the wings out to the full length, with the bird still upon its back; measure these from tip to tip as "the stretch of wing." Measure the wing from the tip to the carpel joint, or bend, with the dividers (Plate X. d), for "the length of the wing." The tail is to be measured also with the dividers from the tip to the root for "the length of the tail." Measure the tarsus (Plate VII. g) as " the length of the tarsus." Measure the bill, from the tip of the upper mandible to the base (if the base is not well defined, as in the Ducks, measure to the feathers) ; this is "the length of bill along the culmen" (Plate III. h). Measure from the tip of the upper mandible to the gape (e) for " the 1 jngth from gape " ; also from the tip of the lower mandible to the angle of the gonys (s) for " the length of gonys " (c). In the Hawks, measure to the cere. The color of the eyes, feet, and bill is now observed and recor.led, also the date of collection and the locality in which the bird was collected. If the bird is in worn plu- mage, the fact should be recorded, as this will affect the measurements ; also if it is moulting or in perfect plu- mage. As the rec >rds now made are only temporary, signs may be used to save time, such as X would denote an adult bird in perfect plumage, Y| would denote a young bird in worn plumage, YY| 1 would denote a young bird not a year old and moulting, this stage in the life of the bird is called the "young-of-the-year." By using some such signs as these much time will be saved. When the collector becomes expert at measuring, he will find that all small birds can be measured and recorded in THE ART OF PRESERVING BIRDS. 21 22 THE NATURALIST'S GUIDE, about three minutes, and the larger ones in a little longer time. Skinning. First, have plenty of plaster near at hand, liemove the cotton from the mouth and vent, -and place a fresh plug in the mouth alone. The method now about to be described is one that will apply to all birds, excepting those to be hereafter named. Place the bird upon its back ; with the forefinger and thumb part the feathers on the abdomen, and a bare longi- tudinal space will be discovered, extending from the breast to the vent. With the scalpel divide the skin in the centre of this bare space, commencing at the lower part of the breast-bone, or sternum (Plate X. o), arid ending at the vent. Now peel the skin off to the right and left, and sprinkle plaster upon the exposed abdomen. Force the leg on the right side up under the skin, at the same time drawing the skin down until the joint (p) appears ; cut through this joint and draw the leg out as far as the tarsus or first joint (k) ; with the point of the knife sever the tendons on the lower part of the leg, then by a single scraping motion upwards they may all be removed, com- pletely baring the bone ; treat the other leg in a like man- ner, leaving both turned out as they were skinned. Place the finger under the rump near the tail, then with the scalpel cut through the backbone just in front of the coc- cygus (n) entirely through the flesh to the skin, the finger beneath is a guide to prevent cutting the skin. This may be done very quickly after long practice, and there is no danger of severi,g the skin if proper care be used. Put on a fresh supply of plaster. Now grasp the end of the backbone firmly between the thumb and forefinger, and with the other hand pull the skin down on all sides towards the head, until the joint of the wing, where the last bone, or humerus (r), is joined to the body, appears ; sever the bones at this joint, and draw the skin down THE ART OF PRESERVING BIRDS. 23 over the neck arid head. When the ears appear, with the thumb-nail remove the skin that adheres closely to the skull without breaking it, pull down to the eyes, then cut the skin off close to the eyelids, taking care not to cut or injure them; but be sure and cut close enough to remove the nictating membrane, as it will otherwise cause trouble. Skin well down to the base of the bill. Re- move the eye with the point of the knife by thrusting it down at the side between the eye and the socket, then with a motion upward it can be removed without breaking ; cut oft' enough of the back part of the skull to remove the brains easily. Proceed to skin the wings; draw them out until the forearm (Plate X. d) appears, to which the sec- ondaries are attached; with the thumb-nail detach them by pressing downward forcibly. Remove the muscles and tendons as explained on the leg to the joint, where the forearm joins the humerus (B), then divide, removing the liumerus entirely. Now open the drawer containing the arsenic, and with a small flat piece of wood cover the skin completely with it ; be sure that the cavities from which the brains and eyes were removed are filled. Take up the skin and shake it gently. The arsenic that remains adhering to it is sufficient to preserve it, provided the skin is damp enough ; if not, it may be moistened slightly. Now fill the eye-holes * with cotton, tie the wing-bones with thread, as near together as the back of the bird was broad, then turn the skin back into its former position. Smooth the feathers of the head and wings with the fingers. With a few strokes of the feather duster, holding the skin up by the bill, remove the plaster and arsenic that may be ad- hering to the feathers. If there is blood upon the feathers, it may be removed if there is not much of it, and if it is dry with the " * By which I mean the holes occupied by the eyes in the skull 24 THE NATURALIST'S GUIDE. stiff brush by continuous brushing, assisted by scraping with the thumb-nail. A living bird cleans blood from its plumage by drawing each feather separately through its beak, thereby scraping off the blood ; the thumb-nail performs the part of the bill. If much bloody, with a soft sponge and water wash away all traces of blood ; then throw plaster upon the wet spot, and remove it before it has time to harden or *' set." By repeating this opera- tion, at the same time lifting the feathers so as to allow the plaster to dry every part, and by using the soft brush, the feathers will soon dry. In this way any stains may be removed. If the plumage is greasy, wash it with warm water and strong soap long enough to remove every particle of fatty matter that adheres to the feathers ; then rinse thorouyltlj in warm water, afterwards in cold. Be sure and remove all traces of the soap before putting on the plaster to dry, as the soap will be changed by the plaster into a gummy substance, which will be very difficult to remove. After smoothing the feathers carefully, place the skin upon its back. With the tweezers take up a small roll of hemp or cotton, as large round and as long as the neck of the body that was taken out, and place it in the neck of the skin, taking care that the throat is well filled out ; th^n, by grasping the neck on each side with the thumb and finger, the hemp or cotton may be held in place, and tho tweezers withdrawn. After placing the wings in the same position as 'he bird would have them when at rest, with the bones of the forearm pushed well into the skin, so that they may lie down each side, and not cross each other, with a needle and thread sew through the skin and the first quill of the primaries by pushing the needle through the skin on the inside and through the quill opposite, but be sure that the wing is in the proper place. (If it is too far forward, the feathers of the sides of the breast, that ought to THE ART OF PRESERVING BIRDS. 25 lie smoothly over the bend of the wing, will be forced up and backward. If the wing is placed too far back, there will be a bare spot upon the side of the neck, caused by the wing-coverts, which help, in connection with the feath- ers of the back, to hide the spot, being drawn either down or back too far. If the wing is placed too low, the same spot is seen, only it is elongated and extends along the back between the secondaries and feathers of the back ; if too high, the feathers of the back will appear pushed up, and will not lie smooth for obvious reasons. When the wing is in the right position, the feathers of the wing- coverts and back will blend nicely and smoothly, and the feathers of the sides of the breast will lie smoothly over the bend of the wing ; the ends of the closed quills will lie flat upon the tail, or nearly so.) Now draw the thread through so that but an inch is visible inside the skin, then push the needle through the skin from the outside just below the quill that it came out through, draw the thread through, and tie to the projecting end, thereby fastening the wing firmly to the side ; proceed in this way with the other wing. Roll up loosely an oblong body of cotton or hemp of the same size as the body taken out, place it in the skin neatly, then draw the edges of the skin together where the incision was made, and sew them once in the centre ; tie the ends of the thread together. Take care to put the needle through the etfye of the skin so as not to disturb the feathers. Smooth the feathers on the abdomen. Cross the feet upon the tail (Plate IV. Fig. 3), which is spread slightly, then place tne sirni upon its back in the rounded places of the drying-board, spoken of on page 18 (Fig. 1, d), taking care that the feathers of the back are perfectly smooth. This rounded bed gives the back a natural rounded appearance, which cannot be mndo ensilv in any other WAJ. Place the head with t.ho 26 THE NAllKALlSl'S GUIDE. Fig. 2 THE ART OF PRESERVING BIRDS. 27 bill horizontal with the back or bottom of the rounded space, with the culmen (Plate IV., Fig. 1, d) nearly touch* ing the paper. The skin must remain in this position without being disturbed until perfectly dry, which in very warm weather, with small birds, will be in about twenty- four hours. If this corrugated board cannot be procured, the skin may be placed on its back upon a flat surface, with a little cotton on each side of it to prevent its getting dis*- placed. This is what is technically termed " a skin ? (Fig. 3), and this method of making them is the best I have ever seen practised, and one that I have used for years as being the most expedient. The skins so made are less liable to injury, being stronger than some others, and are also very easily mounted. I have made in a single day, in the manner described, fifty skins, and with practice almost any one will be able to do the same ; teii minutes being ample time for each, including the meas- uring. Before the skin is placed upon the board, it should le labelled (Fig. 3, ) with a number corresponding to the one placed upon the slip of paper containing the meas- urements, etc., marked also for the sex of the bird, which is done by using for the male the sign of the planet Mars, thus <$ ; for the female the sign of the planet Venus is used, thus 9- These signs are used by natural- ists throughout the scientific world, and it is best to be- come accustomed to them. Determining the. Sex. The sex of the bird is determined, not by the plumage, which will sometimes set tho student at fault by its changes, and should never be trusted m de- termining the sex, but by dissection, as follows : Take the body of the bird after it has been removed, and cut with the scalpel through the ribs (Plate X. A) on the sid^s of the abdomen, thereby exposing the intestines ; raise 28 THE NATURALIST'S GUIDE. these gently with the point of the knife, and beneath them will be seen the sexual organs, which are fully illustrated in the following diagrams. PLATE V., Fig. 2, is an adult male () in the breeding season. 1 shows the position of the lungs, 2 the pecu- liar yellowish glands, in some birds bright yellow, in the present case that of a song sparrow (Mdospiza melodin. Baird) they are yellowish white, which, being present in both sexes, if not examined closely, may be easily mis taken, in the young female, for the testicles of the male. 3, 3, are the testicles, much enlarged in this, the breeding season. The sex of a bird in this stage is easily deter- Inined. .," PLATE VI., Fig. 1, is a young male (ad has been sacrificed to ignorance and superstition. Indeed, so strong is the general prejudice against the most com- mon snakes, which are as incapable of inflicting an injury as a mouse, that but few persons will hesitate to kill the supposed venomous reptile at sight, if indeed they have the courage to remain long enough in its vicinity to do so valiant a deed. Such persons really believe that they are removing a dangerous adversary of man from the face of the earth. I would, however, advise them to glance for a single instant at the history of these interesting al- though, I will allow, somewhat disgusting-looking ani- mals before they again shed innocent blood. All the snakes REPTILES. 65 in Massachusetts may be handled with impunity, with the exception of two species, which are very rare. I refer to the Copperhead and Rattlesnake. The prettily marked Milk Snake, or Checkered Adder, arid the imaginary ter- rible Water Snake, are quite harmless, although we are everywhere informed by those who are ignorant upon this subject that they are exceedingly venomous. So long as people are erroneously educated in this belief, so long will the poor snakes suffer unjustly. Snakes, with but few exceptions, are neutral regarding the interest of man. The best method of preserving snakes is to put them into alcohol moderately strong, as otherwise the scales start easily. Snakes may be benumbed by thrusting a pin into their brains; in this way they may be carried from place to place more readily than if they were uninjured. Snakes may be skinned after making a longitudinal in- cision, about two inches long, in the largest part of the body, on the belly ; then by drawing back the skin, the body may be divided, and the parts drawn out each waj 7 -. The head should not be skinned. The eyes are removed, as in the fishes, from the outside. The skin is now cov- ered with arsenic and turned back. It is then filled with bran to the natural size. It may, after sewing up the incision, be placed in any position desired. Artificial eyes are fixed in the head. If the head is to be raised, run a sharpened wire through the top of it, and through that section of the neck and body that is to be elevated, through the skin into a board, cut off the protruding end, and close the skin of the head over it. After the skin becomes dry, the wire can be taken out of the board, and cut off close to the body. Turtles may lie preserved in alcohol, or they may be skinned and mounted thus : With a small steel saw cut out a square section on the under shell ; remove this find draw the intestines, bones, and flesh of the legs, etc., out 66 THE NATURALIST'S GUIDE. /of the hole thus formed ; skin the legs down to the toe- nails, removing everything ; skin the head and neck ; cover the inside of the shell and skin with arsenic. Turn the feet and neck back, and stuff them to the natural sizo with cotton. Fill the neck with bran ; roll up a small ball of grass, place it inside of the shell ; then force a piece of wire through it into the head, and clinch the end in the ball. Pack cotton or hemp around the grass in the shell, to keep it firm, and to fill up the empty space ; then re- place the piece of shell taken out, and fasten it with glue : or putty. Now put the animal in the proper attitude upon a piece of board, and arrange the feet in the natural position, and pin them until dry ; place the head naturally. The eyes should be removed from the outside, and artificial ones substituted. If it is not convenient to skin a turtle, place it in boiling water a few moments, when the softer parts can easily be removed from the shell. In this case, how- ever, the bones and skull should be cleaned, labelled, and preserved with the shell. For scientific specimens, toads and frogs must be pre- served in alcohol. But they may be skinned in the follow- ing manner : Open the mouth as wide as possible, and cut .-through the bone of the neck or back from the inside ; do not cut the skin ; then separate the flesh on the inside all around. Take hold with the thumb and forefinger, or -with a pair of pliers, of the backbone, and press the skin downwards, and draw the body out. When the forelegs appear, cut the bone and flesh off to the toe-nails, and pro- ceed to perform the same operation with the hind legs. Cover the skin with arsenic, and turn it back, the legs *nay be easily turned by blowing into them with the breath. Fill the body with bran, and support the head in a natural position with cotton until dry. Remove the eyes from the outside, and supply their place with artificial REPTILES. C7 ones, but be sure to place them in the proper position. To place a frog or toad in a fancy attitude, place a ball of gracs in the body, and wire the legs as described in small mammals. The best time to collect toads, and frogs is during the breeding-season in spring. The salamanders may be found under stones and logs in damp places ; also some species in springs and clear running brooks, under stones. They must be placed in alcohol at once. Lizards and alligators may be skinned in the following manner : Make an incision the whole length of the belly, and skin as described in mammals, leaving the skull in. Do not try to remove the skin from the top of the head, as it will be likely to tear. The leg-bones should be cleaned and left in. The reptile is then mounted in the same manner as a mammal. Lizards and small alligators may be put in alcohol. The eggs of frogs and of salamanders may be preserved in alcohol. The eggs of lizards, alligators, and turtles may be blown in, the same manner as birds' eggs; but it is well to place some in alcohol if they are in an advanced state of incubation, as they will serve to illustrate the growth of the embryo. But the egg must be broken slightly to admit the alcohol to the embryo. Last winter I accidentally made a discovery relative to the preservation of tish and reptiles. While travelling in Florida, I accidentally lost some alcohol. Being unable to replace it, and having some reptiles to preserve, 1 put about an ounce of carbolic acid into a glass jar, with half a pound of arsenic ; to this 1 added a quart of water, I will here remark that the waters of Florida are strongly impregnated with lime. Into this composition I put some reptiles and a few young mammals. After two weeks, the jar was packed with others in a box, and sent North by express. 68 THE NATURALIST'S GUIDE. Upon arriving home, and opening the box, I found that the jar had become broken, and the liquid had escaped. The smaller reptiles, etc. I placed in alcohol ; but a rep- tile known as the " Glass Snake " and a young Rabbit were left out for want of room, set away and forgotten. Upon looking them up about a month afterwards, I found, to iny surprise, that the " snake " had dried completely without shrinking in the least, and, moreover, it retained all the peculiar glossiness of life! The Rabbit had not shrunk any more than if it had been in strong alcohol. Such is the result of an accident. Whether this discov- ery will prove of general practical use in preserving reptiles is yet to be proven. CHAPTER V. MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS. SECTION I. Crustacea. But few of these interesting objects of natural history live away from the salt water. The Crawfishes and a few others form the exceptions to the rule. All Lobsters, Crabs, Shrimps, and Crawfishes may be preserved dry. Wash them in fresh water, and, if the specimen is large, remove the flesh as much as possible by lifting the shield, or upper part of the shell. The specimens should be placed in as natural an attitude as possible to dry. When dry they should be handled with care, as they break easily. If arsenic is put into the body, it will help to preserve it and keep away noxious insects. Small Crabs, Shrimps, etc. should be injected with car- bolic acid and dried carefully. Never place a specimen in the sun to dry, but always in a draught of air in the shade. A great many kinds of Shrimps or Sand-Fleas may be col- lected from under sea-weeds on sandy beaches. Collecting Mollu*1c. Many shells may be collected on the sea-shore among the rocks at low tide. Some of the more minute species may be found clinging to the sea-weed that grows on the rocks. These require delicate manipulation, as they are very fragile ; they are best re- moved with the tweezers, and should be placed in wide- mouthed bottles containing alcohol. Some species of cone- shaped, univalve shells may be found clinging closely to the rocks. They should be seized suddenly with the hand, and, before the animal has time to contract itself, which it will do very quickly, and then it adheres so closely as 70 THE NATURALIST'S GUIDE. to render its separation from the rock without injuring the shell extremely difficult, removed with a sliding motion. Many species may be found buried in the rnud and sand below high-water mark. The exact locality where these are hidden may be determined by searching for their breathing-holes on the surface of the mud or sand ; then, by carefully removing a few inches of the soil, the shell may be detected. Numerous species may be taken in deep water by dredging, or with a rake, such as is used in gathering oysters, etc. A great many shells may be procured just as they are cast on shore from the action of the waves; these must be washed in fresh water and dried. The different species of smaller fresh-water shells may be found upon rocks, aquatic plants, and on the surface of the mud. They should be placed in alcohol. The larger species such as the mussels may be taken by dredging. Numerous shells of mussels may be found at the entrances of "the holes of the muskrats ; of these the collector may take his choice, as many of them are in excellent condition for the cabinet. The land shells, or snails, may be taken from the differ- ent plants upon which they feed, or from under stones or logs, especially in damp places. The smaller species should be carefully removed with tweezers, as they are very fragile, and placed in alcohol. Preserving Shells. It is well to preserve in alcohol numbers of all species of shells containing the animal. To remove the contents from shells that are to be dried for the cabinet, boil them a few moments, and clean them with a bent pin or wire. The contents of the different species of bivalves may be removed with a knife without boiling, as by this method the shell retains its color much better. The bivalves should have their shells closed and MISCELLANEOUS COLLKCTIONS 71 tied until dry. If the shells of mussels have a chalky ap- pearance, it may be removed by immersing the specimen for a few moments in a bath of diluted muriatic acid. All shells should be carefully washed in fresh water with a tooth-brush. Never varnish a shell ; it shows bad taste to try to im- prove upon nature in this way, besides injuring the speci- men for scientific use. As some of the more fragile land shells are liable to crack when drying, it is well to apply a slight coating of g'im-arabic dissolved in water. This at some future time may be easily removed. There are also some species from which the epidermis is liable to peel ; to prevent this, Mr. F. W. Putnam informs me that they should be immersed in oil for a short time. Worms. Marine worms may be found in the sand or mud and under stories. They should be kept in strong alcohol. Earthworms, Leeches, etc. must also be kept in alcohol. Many species of marine worms may be found in the hulls of ships, or in wood that has been immersed in salt water for some time. Animal Parasites. Recently in this country, and for some time in Europe, attention has been directed by emi- nent naturalists to the parasites found on birds and other animals, and in their intestines. These* should be placed in alcohol. The parasites from each bird or animal should be kept separate, in small phials, with the name of the bird or animal from which it was taken attached, also the date and locality. The Jelly-Fishes may be found in deep water or near the shore in countless numbers. There are a great many spe- cies. They may be preserved in the following manner : After catching them in a bucket, pour off the water, and add strong alcohol, a little at a time. The animal will give out water continually during this operation, and alcohol 72 THK NATURALISTS GU.DE. should be added until it dies, when the water will cease flowing. It should then be removed from this solution and placed in strong alcohol, where it must be kept permanently. Corals which generally grow at some distance from the shore, and sometimes in deep water should be se- cured with nets. They must first be washed in fresh water, then dried in the shade. It is also desirable to preserve specimens in alcohol. Sea- Anemones are found attached to the rocks or buried in the mud ; they should be plunged in strong alcohol when fully expanded, but the alcohol should afterwards be changed, as they give out large quantities of water. Hydroids and Bryozoa. Incrustations on the rocks, sea- weeds, and delicate tufts found growing on rocks, etc., are called by these names. They may be dried or pre- served in alcohol like the Corals. Star-Fishes may be found among the rocks at low tide. They should be killed by immersing in alcohol or fresh water. Some species should be preserved in alcohol, where they should be placed in as natural attitudes as possi- ble, as when they become rigid it is impossible to alter the position of the arms. They may be dried in the sJiade by placing them in natural positions upon a board. When dead, they should be dried instantly, as they will decompose in a few hours if kept in a damp place. Sea-Urchins may be taken in rocky pools at low water. They may also be found under the sand on beaches, from which they are frequently washed by the waves. They may be preserved in alcohol, or dried like the Star-Fishes. Holothurias, or Sea-Cucumbers, are found on flats or under stones. They must be preserved in alcohol. Sponges and Seaweeds should be dried in a draught. Very pretty ornaments are made of the sea-mosses by washing them in fresh water, and spreading upon dampened paper PREPARING SKELETONS. 73 with a fine needle; the glutinous matter contained in the plants will cause them to adhere so firmly to the paper when dried and pressed as to look like a very fine engrav- ing or painting. When a collection of these are executed by a skilful and artistic hand, and bound in a book, they form a beautiful and interesting volume.* SECTIO^ II. Preparing Skeletons. I will give the meth- ods by which bones may be cleaned. To clean the bones of large animals, first take off as much of the flesh as is possible with a knife ; then put them in slatted boxes, and place the boxes in a running stream, or between tide-marks on the sea-shore. The boxes, being open, will allow the entrance of Shrimp*, other aquatic animals, and insects, who will devour the meat, while the water, having free passage through, will perform its part. When well cleaned, wash them in warm soap-suds, and, after rinsing, dry in the sun and air; this will tend to bleach them. The bones of smaller animals may also be cleansed in this manner ; but the better way is either to boil them until the flesh comes off easily, or to put them into water that has been impregnated with chloride of lime ; in both cases the bones will have to be cleaned afterwards with a knife and a stiff brush ; they should be scraped as little as possible. If kept in a dry place, exposed to the action of the air, the bones will bleach constantly. Mounting Skeletons. To mount the skeleton of a bird, place a wire through the hole occupied by the spinal cord, and fasten it in the skull ; this will hold the vertebra of * As there is not a general interest manifested in the objects alluded to in this section, I have given but few directions for collecting and preserv- ing them, but such as will, perhaps, satisfy the general collector. Those who are particularly interested in thorn will find in the pages of the vari- ous numbers of the ''American Naturalist" more particular directions for collecting and preserving each branch of this truly interesting class of animals, written by the most competent and well-informed men in our country 4 74 THE NATURALIST'S GUIDE. the neck and tail, and other bones of the back, in position. Next, force a wire through the hollows in the bones- of the tarsi, tibia, and hips (Plate X. k, y, j) by drilling a hole through each end; now fasten this wire to the broad bone that coTers the back (m), by drilling a hole through on each side and bending the wire down firmly (x), first over then under the bone, where it meets the end of the oppo- site wire ; twist the ends together. The wing, breast, and other bones are now fastened on by drilling holes trans- versely through the ends and running wires through and twisting them (r, d). The skeletons of mammals, fishes, etc. are mounted in much the same manner. If large, they are supported on iron rods. The wire used must be composed of brass or copper, as iron corrodes easily. The fleshy or cartilaginous parts of the feet should be removed, but not the outer or horny portion of the bill. PREPARING SKELETONS. 75 CHAPTER VI. COLLECTING AND PRESERVING EGGS. No portion of natural history has received more atten- tion than the science of Oology ; yet in very many cases collections of eggs are made in such a careless manner as to render them worthless, except as ornaments, on account of the collector's not paying sufficient attention to identifi- cation and authentication. Let identification, then, he the collectors first care ; let him make it a rule never to take an egg or nest until he can surely tell to what species it belongs. The best method of learning the name of the owner of the nest is to shoot her, especially by collectors who have had but little experience in studying birds ; while the more practised ornithologist can generally tell at a glance, if the bird is large, what it is. While collecting the eggs of the War- blers and other small birds, the most experienced oologist should never neglect to shoot the bird, even if he has to watch for it a long time. Nests and eggs should never be labelled on the author- ity of a person who has found them, and only seen the birds, but who is in a comparative degree unacquainted with them. The nest should be seen in situ, and the bird identified. I have known a great many errors to arise from this source. Commence early in spring to look for the nests of the rapacious birds, and continue the search for these and other nests until late in summer. I know of no rule to be followed in finding nests. Search long and diligently in every locality frequented by birds ; and watch them while OOLLKCTING AND PRESERVING EGGS. 77 building. Place straw, hay, cotton, hemp, or any of the materials that birds use in constructing their nests, in un exposed situation in a swamp or wood, then by watch- ing the birds when they come to take it, and following them, many nests will be found that would otherwise escape notice. To remove the contents of an egg, drill a small hole in one side with a drill made for this purpose (Plate I. Figs. 5, 6) ; two sizes of these drills will be required. Now, with the blow-pipe of which two sizes are also needed, (Fig. 7) applied to the lips, force a small stream of air into the hole ; this will cause the contents, if fresh, to escape at the one hole. To prevent breakage while drill- ing the eggs of the Humming-Birds, or other small birds, it is well to cover the outer surface with thin paper, gummed securely on, and dried. To remove the contents of an egg that has the embryo partially developed, drill as before, only a larger hole is necessary ; then with a small hook (Fig. 8) remove the embryo in small pieces ; after which introduce water with the blow-pipe to rinse the interior of the egg. If the con- tents are allowed to remain in a few days, it will facilitate their removal. If the egg is covered with paper, as in the case of the Hurnming-Birds, the edges of the hole will be less liable to be injured by the shell being broken while using the hook. Never make holes at the end of the egg, or on opposite sides , but if this old method is still preferred, they should both be made on one side, with the larger one nearest the greater end. The best method that I know of for authenticating eggs is the following : After the egg is blown, place a number, written with ink, upon it, corresponding with one placed in the nest, then draw a line beneath it ; under this line place the number of the egg in the nest : thus *-' would 78 THE NATURALIST'S GUIDE. mean that the nest is No. 29, and the egg is the No. 4 of .that nest; both of these numbers will refer to a book, where all the particulars of the finding of the nest, the locality, measurements of the nest, eggs, etc. in inches, are recorded. The method of preparing a book like that referred to above may be seen in the following specimen : O 8- & I I ill O .J SS !_i_t 5 COLLECTING AND PRESERVING EGGS. 79 The measurements of an egg are taken with the dividers in hundredth** of an inch. The number is attached to the nest. Nests, if composed of loose materials, must be kept in boxes, separated from each other ; if lined with feathers, benzine should frequently be applied, to prevent their being attacked by nioths. PART II. CATALOGUE OF THE BIRDS OF EASTERN MASSACHUSETTS, WITH NOTES RELATIVE TO THEIR MIGRATION, HABITS, ETC., ETC., ETC. PART II. INTRODUCTION. ORNITHOLOGISTS of the present day are much indebted to the earnest and enthusiastic men who studied the habits of our birds in years past ; but truthful and careful though they may have been, being but mtn, they were fallible. As this is an age of advancement, it behooves us of the present day, while we are in a measure guided by these teachings, not to be biased by the'.r conclusions, that we may detect the errors which they unconsciously committed. If, while endeavoring to correct some deeply seated error of the past, we disagree with our brother ornithologists, let us, with the spirit of the true naturalist, who would advance the study of Natural History, bring infallible proofs of its being an error, thereby convincing without offending. If in the following pages I unwittingly make mistakes, I am ready to be convinced by sufficient proof. In separating birds into species, too much dependence has been placed upon exceedingly variable characters as valid specific distinctions. For instance, the bill, although in the main retaining its shape, is sometimes subject to wide differences ; this is well illustrated in the Terns, where they are extremely changeable in the length and curve of the culmen ; they also vary in coloration ; yet in determining species, these points are now, and always have been, considered of value. The comparative length of the quills is another very 84 INTRODUCTION. inconstant character, and in but few cases can it he de- pended upon. This has been used as a distinguishing mark in separating some of the smaller Flycatchers. I have tested it, and found it to be valueless, as there is no rule relative to age or sex by which. this is governed. Again, intensity arid paleness of color have been almost unanimously considered of specific value. Indeed, some species have been formed wholly upon this peculiarity ! (Witness Turdus Alicia.) Spots and bars on the wings, and streaks on the rump, are characters changing with age and season, and should never be, depended upon. Another thing is the difference in size; any one who has collected, and carefully measured, birds of one species from one locality, in any numbers, will at once be con- vinced of the absurdity of paying any attention to this particular in determining specific characters. As perti- nent, I wish here to announce a somewhat surprising dis- covery that I have made. After a careful measurement of over three thousand specimens, I have been convinced of the fact, that birds for a certain period increase in size, after which they gradually decrease. Whether the period of decrease is limited or not during the life of the bird, I am unable at present to state. The period of increase may also be variable, both specifically and individually, which yet re- mains to be proven. Both the increase and decrease are proportional ; feet, bill, wings, and body alike keep equal pace. This rule is not without its exceptions, but in the majority of cases it is the rule, and I offer it to my fellow- laborers to prove and use in their ornithological investi- gations. Besides those named, there are other distinctions used in determining species, that in some cases are inconstant. I think it advisable always, before attempting to sepa- rate a supposed species from one closely allied, to procure a sufficiently large number of specimens, and carefully INTRODUCTION. 85 study these seeming distinctions, and decide if they are constant. Specific characters are. I believe, sufficiently tangible and constant in nature, and never need be mistaken ; this will hereafter be illustrated. I would, however, first speak strongly in disfavor of the growing belief in the hybridism of birds, I do not believe that, generally speaking, hybrids occur ; there are a few cases, but they are exceptions. In many instances the so-called hybrids are but abnormal con- ditions of plumage, that can be accounted for on entirely natural grounds. But sometimes the ornithologist, in his haste to make new species, has divided the two opposite stages of color in one species, calling each by a different specific name, and has afterwards found specimens that in their peculiar plumage, size, etc. naturally form con- necting links between the two ; in his perplexity as to which of these to refer it, he has hit upon the fortunate (?) expedient of calling it a "hybrid." Would it not have been much better, if, at first, he had taken a large num- ber of specimens, and, studying them, seen what the sup- posed hybrids really were 1 I have yet to meet with a single instance of hybridism even among local races, although these perhaps occur but, I think, seldom among well-defined species while undomesticated. Species consists in a bird's having certain characters so ' well defined, although inconstant (but never variable beyond a certain point), that it may readily be distinguished from others. Take, for an illustration, the Robin, a bird that since its discovery has never had a single variety or local race called a "new species" (at which I marvel greatly, how- ever). The typical specimen has a clear red breast, black head, and immaculate slate-colored back and wings, which at once distinguish it from all others of the TurdiiKv. We also have a Robin that is very light-colored, with the 86 INTRODUCTION. red almost obsolete, the wings sometimes spotted, and the black of the head pale. Perhaps it is a much smaller bird than the average, but no one thinks of calling this a " new species " ; although, if it were not for the fact that there are Robins presenting every shade in color and difference in size between this and the typical specimen, it would certainly be a good species. Why are not the same variations, which we can here see at a glance, dis- covered in the other members of this family 1 They cer- tainly exist. But more of this anon. The Robin has also characters that it bears in common with other Turdince, which are its true generic characters. If, then, we cannot establish a connecting link in the man- ner described between one species and its nearest allies, we may be sure that it never * mixes with others in breed- ing, but always mates with one having the same pecu- liarities as itself, although changeable to a certain point. This constitutes a natural species. If, on the other hand, we do find a connecting link, many times repeated in differ- ent individuals, between a supposed species and its nearest ally, we may be sure that they are one. In the succeeding pages I have followed the classifica- tion of Professor W. Lilljeborg, of Upsala, as adopted pro- visionally by the Smithsonian Institution. The original method being the ascending or progressive mode, while the one used is the descending mode, with other minor changes. This classification is by far the best in use, although, perhaps, not perfect. By the old methods the Vulture, vile feeder of carrion, was placed first, and we were told to look to him as king of the birds. But King Vulture has been dethroned, and in his stead reigns the Thrush king over all ; crowned for his sprightly intelligence and * The well-known exceptions to this rule lire Qtlnpte* nuratut mixing with C Mtxicnniu; two of the Junco$, and perhaps others INTRODUCTION. 87 lively song, and he has not his equal. As before, however, the birds that approach nearest the fishes are rightfully placed the lowest (Penguins, Grebes, Divers, etc.). In writing the present catalogue I have received much assistance from the excellent list of Dr. Eliot Coues ; also from the very complete list of Mr. J. A. Allen, to whom I express my sincere thanks for other services. I am also under obligations, for valuable information, to Mr. William Bre water, of Cambridge ; Professor S. F. Baird, of the Smithsonian Institution ; Mr. H. B. Farley, of Chelsea ; Mr. E. L. Weeks, of Newtonville ; Mr. J. F. Le Baron, of Ipswich ; and especially to Mr. Henry A. Purdie, of West Newton, for valuable notes concerning the time of migra- tion, etc. In giving the time of migration, I have taken the aver- age for many years, or the earliest or latest date observed during a similar period. All information that I have received has been accredited to the individuals who have given it. The occurrence of all other birds, or notes upon them, I have given upon my own authority. When facts about some particular species are well known, having been published before, I have not repeated them. C. J. M. NKWTONVILLK, September 20, 1869. CATALOGUE. TURDID^E, THE THRUSHES. 1. Turdus migratorius, LINN. Robin. Common summer resident ; abundant everywhere ; breeds as abun- dantly A few winter regularly ; but I am inclined to think that these are visitors from the north, and do not reside during summer. The regular summer residents arrive in the latter part of February, and depart in November. 2. Turdus naevius, GM. Varied Thrush. Has been taken once, at Ipswich, in December. It is, however, en- tirely accidental. 3. Turdus mustelinus, GM. Wood Thrush. Mod t erately common summer resident ; nests on low bushes or trees in swampy woods or thickets. I have found the nest, with young, as early as June 4th. The usual time of nest- ing in this section is, however, about June 1st. Arrives from May llth to 18th, departs about the middle of Oc- tober. I have invariably found this bird exceedingly shy and difficult to approach. It may be seen in early morning, find during the evening twilight, in the breeding-season, perched on the topmost bough of some tall tree, pouring out a flood of delightful melody. In autumn it does not sing, and ia seldom seen. 4. Turdus Pallasii, CAB. Hermit Thrush. Very common during its migrations, especially in autumn, whew 90 THE NATURALIST'S GUIDE. it is found everywhere in the woods. In the spring 1 it fre- quents the swampy woods, and is more shy. Arrives from the south from April 9th to 22d ; remains about two weeks, when it departs northward. Arrives from the north about October 1st. Becomes very plentiful by the 10th. By the 1st of November the greater part disappear, although a few remain until quite late in the month. Have taken it in Coos County, northern New Hampshire, on October 31st, although the ground was covered with snow six inches deep at the time ! also in Oxford County, Maine, as late as No- vember Cth. I have never heard it give any note, except a low chirp of alarm, while passing through Massachusetts. A few undoubtedly breed here. I have seen it at Hyannis on July 3, 1868. There is also a nest containing four eggs, labelled as belonging to this bird, collected at North Bev- erly, June 14, 1868, by Mr. E. P. Emmerton, in the mu- seum of the Peabody Academy of Science at Salem. 5. Turdus fuscescens, STEPH. Wilson's Thrush, Tawny Thrush, " Veery." Common summer resident. Ar- rives from April 30th to May 12th; leaves about the 1st of September. Found everywhere in the woods, where it breeds abundantlv. 6. Turdus Swainsonii, CAB. Olive-backed Thrush. Rather rare spring and autumn migrant. Have taken it from May 16th to June 1st in spring, and in autumn from September 25th until October 9th. Frequents thick, swampy woods and thickets, where, from its shy and retiring habits, it is very difficult to detect. This bird is quite variable in size and intensity of color, insomuch that ornithologists have long considered specimens of a somewhat larger size (al- though not always) and of a universally pale color, a "new" and a "good species," called the "Gray-cheeked Thrush" (Turdus Alicite, Baird). It is strange that when the wide differences in this family are so well known and so generally BIRDS OF EASTERN MASSACHUSETTS. 91 acknowledged, regarding the intensity of color and size, that ornithologists will persist in regarding them as char- acters of specific value. And more incomprehensible still is the fact, that well-reasoning ornithologists cannot see the often-repeated and perfectly natural connecting links, both in intensity of color and size, between the two ex- tremes, and understand the fact of their being connect- ing links, but prefer rather to depart from the great and (I believe) unvarying laws that the mighty Ruler of the universe has established for the maintenance of spe- cies inseparable since their creation, and call them "hy- brids." If in our furor for forming new species we admit such intangible characters as these to be of specific value, we cannot consistently stop here, but out of this one species alone we must (governed by these laws) make at least six ! For T have seen as many constant stages of plumage among specimens of T. Sivainsonii, besides numerous so-called hy- brids. But enough has already been written by Mr. J. A. Allen in the " Memoirs of the Boston Society of Natural History," Vol. I. Part IV., commencing on page 507, upon this subject, to convince any one who will examine for himself of the invalidity of "Alicice" as a species.* Mr. Allen has given the subject much thought, and presents it in the right light. 7. Seiurust aurocapillus, SWAIN. Golden-crowned Thrush, " Oven-Bird. " A very common summer resident, found everywhere i:i the woods. Its curiously covered nest is placed on the ground. Arrives from May 2d to 10th; leaves about the middle of September. * Examine " ' Birds of Springfield,' Proceedings Essex Institute," Vol. IV. pp. 56-58; also " American Naturalist. 11 Vol. II. p. 622. t This genus which has long been placed with the Sylvicolidce, I think closely allied to the true Thrushes. Its habits as well as its anatomical structure, give it a place among the Turdidce. Members of this genus might properly bear the name of Terrestrial Thrushes. 92 THH NATURALIST'S GUIDE. 8. Seiurus noveboracensis, NUTT. Water Thrush, "Water Wagtail." Not uncommon during the migrations. Have taken it from May 15th to 27th. It passes Massa- chusetts in September. It is found in swampy thickets, and on the edges of streams, ponds, and pools of water. It is not very shy, and in its actions reminds one of a Sandpiper. It may possibly breed here, but I have never detected it during the summer months. It has. while with us in spring, a singularly pleasing song. The Large-billed Water Thrush (Sdarm Ltidovicianus, Bonap.) ought to occur, as I have seen a specimen that was taken by my friend, Mr. Allen, near Springfield. 9. Harporhynchus rufus, CAB. Brown Thrush, " Thrasher," k ' Ferruginous Mocking-Bird." Common sum- mer resident ; breeds abundantly ; nests on low bushes or on the ground, more frequently in the latter situation. Arrives from April 23d to May 4th ; departs about the 1st of October. 10. Mimus Carolinensis, GRAY. Cat-Bird. One of the most common and best known of all our birds ; also very beneficial to the husbandman, in spite of the almost universal prejudice against it. Breeds abundantly near houses, in hedges, along the edges of woods, or in swampy thickets. Arrives from April 29th to May 7th ; takes its departure about the middle of October. 11. Mimus polyglottus, BOIE. Mockiny-Bird. Has been taken in the western part of the State. I have never seen a specimen in this region, but Mr. N. Vickery informs me that he has seen one that was taken some years ago in Lynn. SAXICOLID.E, THE ROCK-!NHABITERS. 12. Sialia sialis, BAIRD. Blue-Bird. Common; breeds abundantly in holes in trees or in martin-boxes. BIRDS OF EASTERN MASSACHUSETTS. 93 Arrives as early as February 27th; becomes common by March 10th; leaves about the 1st of November. SYLVIID.E, THE WARBLERS. 13. Regulus calendulus, LIGHT. Ruby-crowned Kinglet. Common spring and autumn migrant. Arrives in spring, from April 10th to 22d ; remains until the first week in May ; arrives from the north the second, and de- parts south the last, week in October. Found in the woods and orchards everywhere. 14. Regulus satrapus, LIGHT. Golden-crowned King- let. Abundant winter resident. Found everywhere. Have taken it from October 14th until May 9th. Commonly seen in company with the Chickadee. The Blue-gray Gnatcatcher (Polioptila ccerulea, Sclat.) is said to occur. I have never met with it in this section. PARID.E, THE TITMICE. 15. Parus atricapillus, LINN. Black-capped Titmouse, 11 Chickadee." Abundant resident. Found everywhere ; no bird is better known. Builds its nest by drilling a hole in a partly decayed tree, generally a birch. It sometimes, however, occupies other holes in trees. It builds its nest about the first of May. CERTHIID.E, THE CREEPERS. 16. Certhia familiaris,* LINN. Brown Creeper. Resident. Rather rare during summer, but common in winter. Found everywhere, in the woods, in orchards, * The supposed difference between the American and European Certhia. is not tangible, therefore the specific name of Americana becomes eynonyme. 94 THE NATURALIST'S GUIDE. and on the elm-trees in the streets of the villages. Said to build its nest in May in holes of trees. SITTID^E, THE NUTHATCHES. 1 7. Sitta Carolinensis, GM. White-bellied Nut- hatch. Common resident, perhaps more so during spring and autumn ; breeds. I have seen the young fully fledged by June 6th. 18. Sitta Canadensis, LINX. Red-bellied Nuthatch. Rather common winter resident. Arrives about the mid- die of October. Perhaps a few remain to breed, as I have taken it in the latter part of May. Found in the woods everywhere. TROGLODYTID.E, THE WRENS. 19. Troglodytes aedon, VIEILL. House Wren. Common summer resident, but exceedingly local in its distribution. In Newton it is very rare during the breed- ing-season, while in Cambridge it breeds abundantly. Ar- rives from April 30th to May 20th ; leaves about Oc- tober 1st. After a critical examination of a large series of Wrens I have come to the conclusion that the so-called " Wood Wren" (Troglodyte* America nu$, Aud.) is this species in unusually dark plumage. I have in my possession birds exhibiting the well-known marks of immaturity, as gene- rally paler colors, with spots upon the wings. With such birds the superciliary stripe is better denned. But this character is variable, and cannot be depended upon. I have also birds with generally darker colors, with the superciliary stripe wanting or barely perceptible. The wings are unspotted, and the breast exhibits faint undu- lating transverse lines or bars of darker. These are the BIRDS OF EASTERN MASSACHUSETTS. 95 extremes ; I have birds exhibiting every shade of color between, but remarkably variable. Upon these inconstant characters does the specific value of Americana rest! Very pertinent then are the grave doubts expressed by ornithologists as to its validity as a species. The following is an accurate description of the specific characters, with the more important synonymes, and a table of comparative measurements. Troglodytes aedon, VIEILL. House Wren, Troglodytes neJon. VIELLOT, Ois. Am. Sept II. 1807, 32; PI. CVIl. la. Xouv. Diet. XXXIV. 1819, 506. BONAP., Obs. Wilson, 1825, No. 136. * RKMI , K. Bor. Am. II. 1831, 316. - - AUD.. Orn. Biog. I. 1831, 427: V. 1839; PI. LXXXIII. IB. Syn. 1839, 75. IB. Birds Am. II 1841, 125; PI. VIII. * " B AIRI>, Birds N. Am. 1858, 367. " SA M IJELS. Oni. and Otil. of N. Eng. 1867, 196. " " COUKS, I* roc. Essex Inst. V. 1867, 278. Sylcin domtstica WILSON, Am. Orn. I. 1808, 129; PI. VIII. NUITAI.L, Man. I. 1832, 422. RICH., List, 1837. At'i>., Orn. Biog. II. 1834, 452: V. 1839, 469, PI. 179. In. Birds Am. II. 1841, 123; PI. 119. IB Syn. 1839,75. * ** IlAiitn, Birds N. Am. 1858, 368. u COUKS, Proc. Essex Inst. V. 1867, 278. SP. CH. ; Bill extremely variable in size, dark brown, paler at the base of the lower mandible. Upper parts dark brown, becoming more rufous on the rump and upper tail- coverts ; middle of back and upper tail-coverts faintly barred transversely with irregular lines of darker. The brown of the back is exceedingly changeable ; when it becomes light- colored, these bars are almost, if not quite, obsolete ; wings distinctly and more regularly barred transversely with black ; tail reddish brown, irregularly but distinctly barred transversely with black, sometimes this black has a lighter edging ; under parts dirty white, becoming pale brown on 96 THE NATURALIST'S GUIDE. sides, abdomen, and under tail-coverts. Middle of breast, sometimes, and sides, faintly and irregularly barred with transverse lines of pale brown. During autumn and winter this pale brown of the sides, abdomen, and under tail-cov- erts, becomes quite rufous, and the bars on the sides much more distinct. Abdomen and under tail-coverts more regu- larly and distinctly barred transversely with dark brown ; eyes brown. Feet varying from brown to paler, sometimes almost white. In this stage it is the T. Americanos of authors. In younger stages the plumage differs from this in hav- ing the upper parts paler, with the bars on the middle of the back almost, and in some specimens quite, obsolete. The bars on the wings are not as distinct, and there are on the ends of the wing-coverts small triangular spots of dirty white. There is generally a dirty- white superciliary stripe over the eye. The middle of the breast is without the faint barrings. The under mandible of the bill is sometimes pale brown the whole length. This is the T. aedon of authors.* The first stage is somewhat uncommon, while the inter- mediate and the last are of more general occurrence. It will be seen by the table, that no rule can be fixed where color can be made to coincide with size. 20. Anorthura hyemalis, UENNIE. Winter Wren. Rare in this section during the migrations. I have seen it in October and in April. I have never met with it in winter, and doubt if it occurs during that season. I found it very abundant in Oxford County, Maine, from October 12th to 22d, when it disappeared. Frequents low bushes by the roadside and along stone walls. It is shy, and diffi- cult to approach while it is in sight, as upon the appear- ance of man it immediately hides. 21. Cistothorus stellaris, CAB. Lonrj-Ulled * Occasionally the young-of-the-yeur assume the darker plum: ** * lif Os +O +0 *0 ^O OSi C>Si +O Q* CX, CX.* Osv Ck, r iii 5S C 5 !> 1 M Cw I 8 3. fg* 'i S - 1 fc r * 1 ^ ?l* 2. V f s 1 I " 1 g * IP . S- ? I 8 V g = , . s t -. . = g rp ' NH I & s B 8 88S>gS!88s> (g 2, O5 S i 1 Cn 8 fl^S^SS !*^ 1 ft to >-> to to .-> to to 10 to 10 to to ic ft- Co cs i s CD* *O> *OOOOrtfc OOOOiCiOo!^ p " :? "If S S s OOrf^O'CnC^O'OO HI S fe * g gg^Sgtogg^l 1 III ^ S 8 a 8^ss:8Sg;g^g B S B S s g g ^r ll| g B '1 & c $ 1 $ $ i- r5? fr S 1 r I 1 g flfpppglpg I 1^ i 8 ^ eo So^tJoooocoi--' i ^ 2. B P S s 1 58 O ^ O 1 s 1 I- 1 ' 1 r ? 3 o 3 n B 1 I s ! ! s s s 1 * 98 THE NATURALIST'S GUIDE. Wren. Common in the large fresh-water marshes during summer, where it breeds during the latter part of May. 22. CistOthoniS palustris, CAB. Short-billed Marsh Wren. Rather more common than the preceding. Fre- quents the same localities. It is exceedingly difficult to procure, on account of its lying very closely when hunted. MOTACILLID.E, THE WAGTAIL. 23. Anthus Ludovicianus, LIGHT. Tit-lark. Abun- dant spring and autumn migrant along the coast. I am informed by my friend, Mr. William Brewster, that it is also abundant on the Fresh Pond marshes, near Cam- bridge. It has the habit of jerking its tail like the Water Thrushes. SYLVICOLID^E, THE WOOD-WARBLERS. 24. Mniotilta varia, VIEILL. Black and White Creep- er. Common summer resident. Abundant during the mi- grations. Found in the woods everywhere. Arrives the last week in April ; leaves the latter part of September. Breeds. 25. Parula Americana, BON. Blue YeUow-bacM Warbler. Summer resident. This beautiful little Warbler seems to be a somewhat irregular visitor while migrating. During the spring of 1867 it was very abundant ; in 18(58 I could find but two or three, although I searched dili- gently for it ; while the season of 18G9 brought it in particular abundance. Found generally in oak woods. Arrives about the second week in May ; leaves in the mid- dle of September. Mr. William Brewster informs me that it breeds Quite commonly in certain localities. 26. Geothlypis trichas, CAB. Maryland Yellmv- BIRDS OF EASTERN MASSACHUSETTS. 99 throated Warbler. Abundant summer resident ; breeds, commonly in marshy or swampy places. Arrives from May 1st to 13th ; leaves about the first week in October or the latter part of September. 27. G-eothlypis Philadelphia, BAIRD. Mourning Warbler. Very rare. May 21, 1866, Mr. William Brew- ster shot a male in Cambridge, on the top of a tall tree. Another specimen of the same sex was taken at the Fran- conia Mountains, New Hampshire, on August 3, 1807. " It was in company with four fully fledged young, which it was feeding. The young, being shy, and in a thicket of low bushes, were not procured. The old bird was catching flies after the manner of the Flycatchers." * 1 have met with this species but once ; that was in May, among low bushes, in a swampy place. 28. Oporornis agilis, BAIRD. Connecticut Warbler. Very rare, especially during spring. 1 can record but four instances of its capture, a male, among low bushes, in Newton Centre, on September 16, 1867, by Mr. L. L. Thaxter ; I procured another male in September, 1868, also among low bushes, in a swampy place. My specimen was very shy. It was exceedingly fat ; I never met with a bird more so. Mr. H. A. Purdie has also taken specimens twice in September. 29. Icteria viridis, Box. Yellow-breasted Cknt. Ex- ceedingly rare summer visitor. Shot a male in full plu- mage in a swampy thicket in the spring of 1862. This is the only instance recorded of its capture in this locality. 30. Helminthophaga ruficapilla, BAIRD. Xa*h- ville Warbler. Common on the migrations. A few breed. Arrives from May 6th to 18th ; departs in September.: Frequents the woods everywhere, generally keeping near the tops of the trees or on the higher branches. * MS. Notes of Mr. W. Brewster. 100 THE NATURALIST'S GUIDE. 31. Helminthophaga peregrina, CAB. Tennessee Warbler. Very rare spring and autumn migrant. Be- tween the 18th and the 24th of May, 1869, I shot four specimens, all males, on apple-trees in Newtonville. This is the first record of its capture in Eastern Massachusetts. A pair, male and female, were shot by Mr. William Brew- Bter, near Mount Auburn, on high oak-trees. It has a very pleasing note. Its breeding place is unknown ; probably in the northern sections of JSew England, however, it finds a secure home. 32. Helminthophaga pina, BAIRD. fllue-wnged Yellow Warbler. A A r. E. A. Samuels gives it as a very rare summer resident. " In 1857, in the month of May, about the 12th or 15th, 1 found a small flock in Dedhum, Massachusetts."* It is also given, by other ornithologists, as very rare. 1 have never met with it. 33. Helminthophaga chrysoptera, BAIRD. Golden- winged Warbler. Rather common summer resident. Ar- rives from May 15th to 29th. I had long suspected this beautiful Warbler of breed- ing with us ; this season my suspicions were confirmed. The following is an extract from my note-book: . " June 12, 1869. Walking this morning in a lane that goes through a piece of woods in West Newton, my atten- tion was attracted by hearing the sharp alarm-note of a female of this species, who was sitting upon a small elm- tree by the roadside, within a few yards of me. Knowing by her actions that she had a nest in the immediate vicin- ity, I retreated a few rods and watched her. In a few moments she flew down into the grass and tall weeds at the foot of the tree. I waited a little, then went quickly to the spot ; after a short search I discovered the bird sitting on the nest almost at my feet ! She instantly flew off, and alighted upon a tree near by, disclosing to my * "Ornithology and Oology of New England," 1867, p. 213. BIRDS OK '* EA<6TEfofc M ASS* A i*t. BIRDS OF EASTERN MASSACHUSETTS. 103 35. Dendroeca coerulescens, BAIRD. Black-throated Blue Warbler. Rare during the migrations. Have taken it from May 15th to 24th. I have always found it in mixed woods. ' k Although not generally common, I found it quite plentiful during the season of 1869."* 36. Dendroeca coronata, GRAY. Ydlow-rumped Warbler, " Myrtle-Bird." Very abundant during the migra- tions. Arrives from April 20th to May 5th. I have seen it from April 18th until the 1st of June. Appears about the last week of September in great numbers, in straggling, de- tached flocks ; remains until November 1st. Perhaps some remain during the winter, at which time I have met with it in great numbers in Florida. 37. Dendroeca castanea, BAIRD. Bay-breasted War- bler. Exceedingly rare. Possibly breeds, as I have taken a male on June 19, 1867. Arrives from May 17th to 22d. I have never met with this species in autumn. (See D. striata.) Mr. Brewster says that he has taken it in Wolf- boro', New Hampshire, in May. Frequents the woods every- where. 38. Dendroeca Blackburniae, BAIRD. Mrs. Black- burn's Warbler, Bfadchttmitin Warbler. In some seasons not uncommon during the migrations. Arrives from May Nth to 27th : departs for the south in September. Found everywhere, both in the woods and on apple-trees. 39. Dendroeca pina, BAIRN. Pint-creeping War- bler, Pine Wdrblo-. Common during the migrations. A few breed. Arrives from April 9th to 22d ; departs in September. Found everywhere. 40. Dendroeca Pennsylvanica, BAIRD. Chestnut- sided Warbler. Common summer resident ; breeds com- monly. Arrives from May r>th to 19th; departs about the second week in September. Found everywhere. 41. Dendrceca striata, BAIRD. Black-polled War- * Mr. W. Brewster, in MS. 104 THE NATL'KALISrS GUIDE. bier. Very abundant spring and autumn migrant. I have taken it in spring from May 15th until June 9th; in au- tumn, from September 19th until the latter part of Oc- tober, during this season it is very numerous. I think the Sylvia autumnali^ Wils., is really the young of this species. I have shot hundreds of this species in autumn, but have never taken one or* the other (D. castanea). 42. Dendrceca aestiva, BAIRD. Summer Yellow- Bird. The most coiu.no;) of the Dendrceca in summer; breeds abundantly. Arrivvs from April 30th to May 8th ; departs early in September. 43. Dendrceca maculosa, BAIBD. Black and Yellow Warbler. Rather rare migrant, although common during the spring of 1867. Arrives the third week in May; have taken it from the 23d to the 27th ; have never met with it in autumn. Freq- tents the woods everywhere. 44. Dendrceca palmarum, BAIRD. Red-Poll War- bler, "Palm Warbler.' Al> aidant during the migrations. I have taken it from April Dth to May 10th. In autumn it arrives from the north about the middle of September, and occupies about two weeks in passing. The most terres- trial of all the Dendwa. Found everywhere. 45. Dendrceca discolo 1 :, BAIRD. Prairie Warbler. Rather common summer resident. Arrives from May 13th to 19th. Frequents the high sandy fields grown up to bushes, or rocky hillside covered with barberry bushes, where it breeds. Has a most peculiar song, which is al- most indescribable. I have never met with the Blue Warbler (Dendroeca cceridea, Baird) although it perhaps rarely occurs. 46. Perissoglossa tigrina, BAIRD. Cape May War- bler. Exceedingly rare spring and autumn migrant. I have never met with it. Mr. W. Brewster has taken it in an apple-tree on May 17, 1867. The late Dr. Henry Bryant once showed me quite a number of skins, which he BIRDS OF EASTERN MASSACHUSETTS. 105 said were taken in eastern Massachusetts, in spring, upon apple-trees when in bloom. 47. Myiodioctes pusillus, Box. Black-capped Fly- catchinf/ Warbler. Not uncommon during the spring mi- grations. Have taken it from May 18th to 24th, but have never seen it in autumn. It sings well ; has more of the habits of a Warbler than a Flycatcher. Frequents thickets, often by the side of a stream ; I have also shot it on the tops of high trees. 48. Myiodioctes Canadensis, AUD. Canada Fly- catching Wat-hi.tr. Common during the migrations. I have taken it from May 22d to June 4th. It is said to breed. Frequents low bushes on the edges of woods. The Hooded Flycatching Warbler (Myiodioctes mitra- tus, Aud.) may occur, but 1 have yet to meet with a single well-authenticated instance of its capture. 49. Setophaga ruticilla, SWAIN. Redstart. Com- mon summer resident. Arrives from May 5th to 19th; last seen about September 10th. This species loves the deep woods, where it builds its nest, generally in the fork of a high limb, on some lofty tree. HIRUNDINIDJE, THE SWALLOWS. 50. Hirundo hcrreorum, BARTOX. Barn Sivallow. Very abundant summer resident. Arrives the last week in April ; departs in early September. Nests in barns. .51. Potrochelidon lunifrons, (JAB. Cliff Swallow, Eaves Sunfbtw. Common summer resident. Arrives the first week in May ; leaves in the latter part of August. Breeds under the eaves of barns, generally in associations, hundreds sometimes choosing one building ; hence it is sometimes called the " Republican," or " Sociable Swallow." Formerly nested under cliffs. 52. Tachycineta bicolor, CAB. White-bellied Swal- 106 THE NATURALIST'S GUIDE. low, "White-bellied Martin." Abundant summer resi- dent. Arrives from March 31st to April 12th; the first of the Swallows in spring, also remaining the latest, de parting about the middle of September. It congregates upon the salt marshes during the latter part of August and first of September literally by millions ; the air is so completely filled with them that it is almost impossible to discharge a gun without killing some. Nests in the mar- tin-houses, or in holes in buildings. 1 was extremely in- terested when, in company with my friend, Mr. Allen, we found a nest containing six eggs, built in the primitive manner, in a hole of an old blasted cedar-tree, upon the Ipswich Sand-hills. The tree had probably stood there for centuries. 53. Cotyle riparia, BOIE. hank Swalhiv. Abun- dant summer resident, especially along the coast. Arrives from May 1 3th to 2 1 st ; leaves the last week in August. Breeds by the thousand in the sandy banks along our shore, also in the interior. Both sexes assist in incuba- tion. f)4. Progne SUbis, BAIRD. Purple Martin, "Black Martin." Common summer resident ; somewhat local in its distribution ; very abundant upon Cape Cod, while in some places in the interior it is rare. Arrives the last week in April ; leaves about the last week in August. YIREONIIXE,- - THK VIREOS. 55. Vireo olivaceus, VIEILL. J\e